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diff --git a/40943-0.txt b/40943-0.txt index 1b7e1a7..d859d31 100644 --- a/40943-0.txt +++ b/40943-0.txt @@ -1,23 +1,4 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, by Eliza Leslie - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book - -Author: Eliza Leslie - -Release Date: October 5, 2012 [EBook #40943] - -Language: English - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40943 *** Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was @@ -17852,362 +17833,4 @@ Variant spellings left unchanged: End of Project Gutenberg's Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, by Eliza Leslie -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - -***** This file should be named 40943-8.txt or 40943-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/9/4/40943/ - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book - -Author: Eliza Leslie - -Release Date: October 5, 2012 [EBook #40943] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - - - - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY BOOK. - - One Volume, 652 pages, bound. Price $1.25. - - -T. B. Peterson, No. 102 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, has just -published MISS LESLIE'S "NEW COOKERY BOOK." It comprises new and -approved methods of preparing all kinds of Soups, Fish, Oysters, Beef, -Mutton, Veal, Pork, Venison, Ham and Bacon, Poultry and Game, Terrapins, -Turtle, Vegetables, Sauces, Bread, Pickles, Sweetmeats, Plain Cakes, -Fine Cakes, Pies, Plain Desserts, Fine Desserts, Preparations for the -Sick, Puddings, Confectionery, Rice, Indian Meal Preparations of all -kinds, Miscellaneous Receipts, etc. etc. Also, lists of all articles in -season suited to go together for breakfasts, dinners, and suppers, to -suit large or small families, and much useful information and many -miscellaneous subjects connected with general housewifery. - -This work will have a very extensive sale, and many thousand copies will -be sold, as all persons that have had Miss Leslie's former works, should -get this at once, as _all the receipts in this book are new_, and have -been fully tried and tested by the author since the publication of her -former books, _and none of them whatever are contained in any other work -but this_. It is the most complete Cook Book published in the world; and -also the latest and best, as in addition to Cookery of all kinds and -descriptions, its receipts for making cakes and confectionery are -unequalled by any other work extant. - -This new, excellent, and valuable Cook Book is published by T. B. -Peterson, under the title of "MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK," and is -entirely different from any other work on similar subjects, under any -other names, by the same author. It is an elegantly printed duodecimo -volume, of 652 pages; and in it there will be found _hundreds of -Receipts_--all useful--some ornamental--and all invaluable to every -lady, miss, or family in the world. - - -Read what the Editors of the Leading Newspapers say of it. - -_From the Philadelphia Dollar Newspaper._ - - "This is a large, well-bound volume of near seven hundred - pages, and includes in it hundreds of receipts never before - published in any of Miss Leslie's other works, accompanied by a - well-arranged index, by which any desired receipt may be turned - to at once. The receipts are for cooking all kinds of meats, - poultry, game, pies, &c., with directions for confectionery, - ices, and preserves. It is entirely different from any former - work by Miss Leslie, and contains new and fresh accessions of - useful knowledge. The merit of these receipts is, that they - have all been tried, and therefore can be recommended - conscientiously. Miss Leslie has acquired great reputation - among housekeepers for the excellence of her works on cookery, - and this volume will doubtless enhance it. _It is the best book - on cookery that we know of_, and while it will be useful to - matrons, to young housewives we should think it quite - indispensable. By the aid of this book, the young and - inexperienced are brought nearly on a footing with those who - have seen service in the culinary department, and by having it - at hand are rendered tolerably independent of _help_, which - sometimes becomes very refractory. The best regulated families - are sometimes taken a little by surprise by the untimely - stepping in of a friend to dinner--to such, Miss Leslie is the - friend indeed, ready as her book is with instructions for the - hasty production of various substitutes for meals requiring - timely and elaborate preparation." - - -_From the Philadelphia Daily News._ - - "To the housekeeper, the name of Miss Leslie is a guaranty that - what comes from her hand is not only orthodox, but good; and to - the young wife about to enter upon the untried scenes of - catering for a family, _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_ may be - termed a blessing. It presents receipts, (and practical ones - too,) for preparing and cooking all kinds of soups, fish, - oysters, meats, game, cakes, pastry, and indeed everything - which enters into the economy of housekeeping. Their - recommendations are that they are all practical, and the novice - of the culinary art may enter upon her important duties with - '_Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_' by her side, with perfect - confidence that the 'soup' will not be spoiled, and that the - dinner will be what is designed. How many disappointments could - be avoided, how many domestic difficulties prevented, and how - many husbands made happy, instead of miserable, by the use of - this '_vade mecum_,' we shall not pretend to say; but as we - have a sincere regard for every lady who reads the _News_, our - advice to them all is, by all means to buy _Miss Leslie's New - Cookery Book_. Mr. Peterson has done admirably in getting up - this work: it is handsomely and substantially bound in cloth, - gilt, and does credit to his business skill; the low price at - which the work is sold, when we take the size of it into - consideration, One Dollar and Twenty-five cents only, will - doubtless give it an immense sale." - - -_From the Philadelphia Saturday Courier._ - - "With such a book as _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_, - published by Mr. Peterson, it is inconceivable what a vast - extent of palate is destined to be astonished, and what a - gastronomic multitude is to be made happy, by the delicious - delicacies and substantial dishes so abundantly provided. Miss - Leslie has in previous works shown how great an adept she has - been in all culinary matters, and in all that relates to the - comforts and the social enjoyment of the table around which - cluster the good things of life. Literature is very good in its - way; but such dishes as Miss Leslie gives a foretaste of, come - up to a more delicious standard. Her authorship is exquisite, - and is destined to diffuse the very essence of good taste among - the fortunate people who sit down to good dinners and suppers, - not one of whom will rise from the table without a blessing on - _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_. And every taste is sure to be - pleased, for all the receipts in this book are new, and to be - found nowhere else, _and it is the best Cook Book ever - published_--one which, with its hundreds of receipts, ought to - be in the hands of every woman who has the slightest - appreciation of convenience, comfort and economy." - - -_From the Philadelphia Daily Sun._ - - "About one thousand new receipts, never before printed, appear - in this work, all of which have been tried before they are - recommended by the author. All kinds of cooking and pastry; - rules for the preparation of dinners, breakfasts, and suppers; - appropriate dishes for every meal; and a vast quantity of other - useful information, are embraced in the book. It is very - comprehensive, and is furnished with an index for the use of - the housewife. By the aid of Miss Leslie's peculiar happy - talent in giving culinary directions, our girls can acquire a - branch of useful information which is generally sadly neglected - in their education, and thus become fitted for their duties as - wives. One great advantage in _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_, - is the economy which it teaches in the management of a - household, as regards the preparations for the table. Peterson - has done this book up in beautiful style, and it will be sent - to any part of the Union, postage paid, upon the receipt of One - Dollar and Twenty-five Cents. Those who know how much of the - happiness of home depends upon well-cooked viands, neatly - served up, will thank the accomplished authoress for this - valuable contribution to domestic science." - - -_From the Philadelphia Saturday Evening Gazette._ - - "Miss Leslie's 'New Receipts for Cooking' is perhaps better - known than any similar collection of receipts. The very elegant - volume before us, entitled '_Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_,' - is designed as a sequel and continuation to it, and should be - its companion in every family, as the receipts are all new, and - in no instance the same, even when their titles are similar. It - contains directions for plain and fancy cooking, preserving, - pickling; and commencing with soups, gives entirely new - receipts for every course of an excellent dinner, to the - jellies and confectionery of the dessert. Our readers are not - strangers to the accuracy and minuteness of Miss Leslie's - receipts, as, since the first number of the Gazette, she has - contributed to our housekeepers' department. The new receipts - in this volume are admirable. Many of them are modified from - French sources, though foreign terms and designations are - avoided. The publisher has brought it out in an extremely - tasteful style, and no family in the world should be without - it." - - -_From the Pennsylvania Inquirer._ - - "Mr. T. B. Peterson has just published '_Miss Leslie's New - Cookery Book_.' This will be a truly popular work. Thousands of - copies will very soon be disposed of, and other thousands will - be needed. It contains directions for cooking, preserving, - pickling, and preparing almost every description of dish: also - receipts for preparing farina, Indian meal, fancy tea-cakes, - marmalades, etc. We know of a no more useful work for - families." - - -_From the Public Ledger._ - - "As every woman, whether wife or maid, should be qualified for - the duties of a housekeeper, a work which gives the information - which acquaints her with its most important duties, will no - doubt be sought after by the fair sex. This work is '_Miss - Leslie's New Cookery Book_.' Get it by all means." - - -_From the Boston Evening Traveler._ - - "We do not claim to be deeply versed in the art of cookery; but - a lady, skilled in the art, to whom we have submitted this - work, assures us that there is nothing like it within the - circle of her knowledge; and that having this, a housekeeper - would need no other written guide to the mysteries of - housekeeping. It contains hundreds of new receipts, which the - author has fully tried and tested; and they relate to almost - every conceivable dish--flesh, fish, and fowl, soups, sauces, - and sweetmeats; puddings, pies, and pickles; cakes and - confectionery. There are, too, lists of articles suitable to go - together for breakfasts, dinners and suppers, at different - seasons of the year, for plain family meals, and elaborate - company preparations; which must be of great convenience. - Indeed, there appears to be, as our lady friend remarked, - everything in this book that a housekeeper needs to know; and - having this book she would seem to need no other to afford her - instruction about housekeeping." - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY - - BOOK. - - "As every woman, whether wife or maid, should be qualified for - the duties of a housekeeper, a work which gives the information - which acquaints her with its most important duties will no - doubt be sought after by the fair sex. This work is '_Miss - Leslie's New Cookery Book_.' Get it by all means."--_Public - Ledger._ - - PHILADELPHIA: - T. B. PETERSON NO. 102 CHESTNUT STREET. - 1857. - - - - - Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by - - ELIZA LESLIE, - - In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United - States, in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -I have endeavored to render this work a complete manual of domestic -cookery _in all its branches_. It comprises an unusual number of pages, -and the receipts are all practical, and _practicable_--being so -carefully and particularly explained as to be easily comprehended by the -merest novice in the art. Also, I flatter myself that most of these -preparations (if faithfully and liberally followed,) will be found very -agreeable to the general taste; always, however, keeping in mind that -every ingredient must be of unexceptionable quality, and that good -cooking cannot be made out of bad marketing. - -I hope those who consult this book will find themselves at no loss, -whether required to prepare sumptuous viands "for company," or to -furnish a daily supply of nice dishes for an excellent family table; or -plain, yet wholesome and palatable food where economy is very expedient. - - ELIZA LESLIE. - - _Philadelphia, March 28th, 1857._ - - - - -WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. - -Tested and Arranged by Miss Leslie. - - - Wheat flour one pound of 16 ounces is one quart. - Indian meal one pound 2 ounces is one quart. - Butter, when soft one pound 1 ounce is one quart. - Loaf sugar, broken up, one pound is one quart. - White sugar, powdered, one pound 1 ounce is one quart. - Best brown sugar, one pound 2 ounces is one quart. - Eggs ten eggs weigh one pound. - - -LIQUID MEASURE. - - Four large table-spoonfuls are half a jill. - Eight large table-spoonfuls are one jill. - Two jills are half a pint. - A common-sized tumbler holds half a pint. - A common-sized wine-glass holds about half a jill. - Two pints are one quart. - Four quarts are one gallon. - - About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a - common-sized tea-spoon. - - Four table-spoonfuls will generally fill a common-sized - wine-glass. - - Four wine-glasses will fill a half pint tumbler, or a large - coffee-cup. - - A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half; - sometimes not so much. - - A table-spoonful of salt is about one ounce. - - -DRY MEASURE. - - Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck. - One gallon is half a peck. - Two gallons are one peck. - Four gallons are half a bushel. - Eight gallons are one bushel. - - Throughout this book, the pound is avoirdupois weight--sixteen - ounces. - - - - -GENERAL CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - - SOUPS, 33 - - FISH, 77 - - SHELL-FISH, 108 - - BEEF, 138 - - MUTTON, 173 - - VEAL, 188 - - PORK, 216 - - HAM AND BACON, 235 - - VENISON, 252 - - POULTRY AND GAME, 265 - - SAUCES, 309 - - VEGETABLES, 343 - - BREAD, PLAIN CAKES, ETC., 401 - - PLAIN DESSERTS, 444 - - FINE DESSERTS, 469 - - FINE CAKES, 516 - - SWEETMEATS, 543 - - PICKLES, 568 - - PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK, 581 - - MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, 595 - - WORTH KNOWING, 645 - - - - -ANIMALS - -FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE LARGE ANIMALS ARE -DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS. - - -[Illustration: _Beef._] - - 1. Sirloin. - 2. Rump. - 3. Edge Bone. - 4. Buttock. - 5. Mouse Buttock. - 6. Leg. - 7. Thick Flank. - 8. Veiny Piece. - 9. Thin Flank. - 10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs. - 11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs. - 12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs. - 13. Brisket. - 14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. - 15. Clod. - 16. Neck, or Sticking Piece. - 17. Shin. - 18. Cheek. - - -[Illustration: _Veal._] - - 1. Loin, Best End. - 2. Fillet. - 3. Loin, Chump End. - 4. Hind Knuckle. - 5. Neck, Best End. - 6. Breast, Best End. - 7. Blade Bone. - 8. Fore Knuckle. - 9. Breast, Brisket End. - 10. Neck, Scrag End. - - -[Illustration: _Mutton._] - - 1. Leg. - 2. Shoulder. - 3. Loin, Best End. - 4. Loin, Chump End. - 5. Neck, Best End. - 6. Breast. - 7. Neck, Scrag End. - - _Note._--A Chine is two Loins; and a Saddle is two Loins and two - Necks of the Best End. - - -[Illustration: _Pork._] - - 1. Leg. - 2. Hind Loin. - 3. Fore Loin. - 4. Spare Rib. - 5. Hand. - 6. Spring. - - -[Illustration: _Venison._] - - 1. Shoulder. - 2. Neck. - 3. Haunch. - 4. Breast. - 5. Scrag. - - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY BOOK. - - - - -SOUPS. - - -It is impossible to have good soup, without a sufficiency of good meat; -thoroughly boiled, carefully skimmed, and moderately seasoned. Meat that -is too bad for any thing else, is too bad for soup. Cold meat recooked, -adds little to its taste or nourishment, and it is in vain to attempt to -give poor soup a factitious flavor by the disguise of strong spices, or -other substances which are disagreeable or unpalatable to at least one -half the eaters, and frequently unwholesome. Rice and barley add to the -insipidity of weak soups, having no taste of their own. And even if the -meat is good, too large a proportion of water, and too small a quantity -of animal substance will render it flat and vapid. - -Every family has, or ought to have, some personal knowledge of certain -poor people--people to whom their broken victuals would be acceptable. -Let then the most of their cold, fresh meat be set apart for those who -can ill afford to buy meat in market. To them it will be an important -acquisition; while those who indulge in fine clothes, fine furniture, -&c., had best be consistent, and allow themselves the nourishment and -enjoyment of freshly cooked food for each meal. Therefore where there is -no absolute necessity of doing otherwise, let the soup always be made of -meat bought expressly for the purpose, and of one sort only, except when -the flavor is to be improved by the introduction of ham. - -In plain cooking, every dish should have a distinct taste of its natural -flavor predominating. Let the soup, for instance, be of beef, mutton, or -veal, but not of all three; and a chicken, being overpowered by the -meat, adds nothing to the general flavor. - -Soup-meat that has been boiled long enough to extract the juices -thoroughly, becomes too tasteless to furnish, afterwards, a good dish -for the table; with the exception of mutton, which may be eaten very -well after it has done duty in the soup-pot, when it is much liked by -many persons of simple tastes. Few who are accustomed to living at -hotels, can relish hotel soups, which (even in houses where most other -things are unexceptionable), is seldom such as can be approved by -persons who are familiar with good tables. Hotel soups and hotel hashes, -(particularly those that are dignified with French names), are -notoriously made of cold scraps, leavings, and in some houses, are the -absolute refuse of the kitchen. In most cases, the sight of a hotel -stock-pot would cause those who saw it, to forswear soup, &c. - -If the directions are _exactly_ followed, the soups contained in the -following pages will be found palatable, nutritious, and easily made; -but they require plenty of good ingredients. - -We have heard French cooks boast of their soup being "delicate." The -English would call it "soup meagre." In such a country as America, where -good things are abundant, there is no necessity of imbibing the -flatulency of weak washy soups. - -All soups should be boiled slowly at first, that the essence of the meat -may be thoroughly drawn forth. The lid of the pot should be kept close, -unless when it is necessary to remove it for taking off the scum, which -should be done frequently and carefully. If this is neglected, the scum -will boil back again into the soup, spoil it, and make it impure or -muddled. When no more scum arises, and the meat is all in rags, dropping -from the bones, it is time to put in the vegetables, seasoning, &c., and -not till then; and if it should have boiled away too much, then is the -time to add a little _hot_ water from another kettle. Add also a large -crust of bread or two. It may now be made to boil faster, and the -thickening must be put in. This is a table-spoonful or more of flour -mixed to a smooth paste with a little water, and enriched with a -tea-spoonful of good butter, or beef-dripping. This thickening is -indispensable to all soups. Let it be stirred in well. If making a rich -soup that requires wine or catchup, let it be added the last thing, just -before the soup is taken from the fire. - -When all is quite done and thoroughly boiled, cover the bottom of a -tureen with small squares of bread or toast, and dip or pour the soup -into it, leaving all the bones and shreds of meat in the pot. To let any -of the sediment get into the tureen is slovenly and vulgar. Not a -particle of this should ever be found in a soup-plate. There are cooks -who, if not prevented, will put all the refuse into the tureen; so that, -when helped, the plates are half full of shreds of meat and scraps of -bone, while all the best of the soup is kept back for the kitchen. This -should be looked to. Servants who cannot reconcile it to their -conscience to steal money or any very valuable articles, have frequently -no hesitation in purloining or keeping to themselves whatever they like -in the way of food. - -Soup may be colored yellow with grated carrots, red with tomato juice, -and green with the juice of pounded spinach--the coloring to be stirred -in after the skimming is over. These colorings are improvements both to -its look and flavor. It may be browned with scorched flour, kept ready -always for the purpose. Never put cloves or allspice into soup--they -give it a blackish ashy dirt color, and their taste is so strong as to -overpower every thing else. Both these coarse spices are out of use at -good tables, and none are introduced in nice cookery but mace, nutmeg, -ginger, and cinnamon. - -The meat boiled in soup gives out more of its essence, when cut off the -bone, and divided into small pieces, always removing the fat. The bones, -however, should go in, as they contain much glutinous substance, adding -to the strength and thickness of the soup, which cannot be palatable or -wholesome unless all the grease is carefully skimmed off. Kitchen grease -is used chiefly for soap-fat. - -In cold weather, good soup, if carefully covered and kept in a cool -place, and boiled over again for half an hour _without_ any _additional -water_, will be better on the second day than on the first. - -It is an excellent way in winter to boil the meat and bones on the first -day, without any vegetables. Then, when very thick and rich, strain the -liquid into a large pan; cover it, and set it away till next morning--it -should then be found a thick jelly. Cut it in pieces, having scraped off -the sediment from the bottom--then add the vegetables, and boil them in -the soup. - - -MUSHROOM SOUP.--Cut a knuckle of veal, or a neck of mutton, (or both, if -they are small,) into large pieces, and remove the bones. Put it into a -soup-pot with sufficient water to cover the whole, and season with a -little salt and cayenne. Let it boil till the meat is in rags, skimming -it well; then strain off the soup into another pot. Have ready a large -quart, or a quart and a pint of freshly-gathered mushrooms--cut them -into quarters, having removed the stalks. Put them into the soup, adding -a quarter of a pound (or more) of fresh butter, divided into bits and -rolled in flour. Boil the whole about half an hour longer--try if the -mushrooms are tender, and do not take them up till they are perfectly -so. Keep the pot lid closely covered, except when you remove the lid to -try the mushrooms. Lay at the bottom of the tureen a large slice of -buttered toast, (cut into small squares,) and pour the soup upon it. -This is a company soup. - - -SWEET CORN SOUP.--Take a knuckle of veal, and a set of calf's feet. Put -them into a soup-pot with some cold boiled ham cut into pieces, and -season them with pepper only. Having allowed a quart of water to each -pound of meat, pour it on, and let it boil till the meat falls from the -bone; strain it, and pour the liquid into a clean pot. If you live in -the country, or where milk is plenty, make this soup of milk without any -water. All white soups are best of milk. You may boil in this, with the -veal and feet, an old fowl, (cut into pieces,) that is too tough for any -other purpose. When the soup is well boiled, and the shreds all strained -away, have ready (cooked by themselves in another pot) some ears of -sweet corn, young and tender. Cut the grains from the cob, mix the corn -with fresh butter, season it with pepper, and stir it in the strained -soup. Give the whole a short boil, pour it into the tureen, and send it -to table. - - -VENISON SOUP.--Is excellent, made as above, with water instead of milk, -and plenty of corn. And it is very convenient for a new settlement. - - -TOMATO SOUP.--Take a shin or leg of beef, and cut off all the meat. Put -it, with the bones, in a large soup-pot, and season it slightly with -salt and pepper. Pour on a gallon of water. Boil and skim it well. Have -ready half a peck of ripe tomatos, that have been quartered, and pressed -or strained through a sieve, so as to be reduced to a pulp. Add half a -dozen onions that have been sliced, and a table-spoonful of sugar to -lessen a little the acid of the tomatos. When the meat is all to rags, -and the whole thoroughly done, (which will not be in less than six hours -from the commencement) strain it through a cullender, and thicken it a -little with grated bread crumbs. - -This soup will be much improved by the addition of a half peck of -ochras, peeled, sliced thin, and boiled with the tomatos till quite -dissolved. - -Before it goes into the tureen, see that there are no shreds of meat or -bits of bone left in the soup. - - -FAMILY TOMATO SOUP.--Take four pounds of the lean of a good piece of -fresh beef. The fat is of no use for soup, as it must be skimmed off -when boiling. Cut the meat in pieces, season them with a little salt and -pepper, and put them into a pot with three quarts of water. The tomatos -will supply abundance of liquid. Of these you should have a large -quarter of a peck. They should be full-grown, and quite ripe. Cut each -tomato into four pieces, and put them into the soup; after it has come -to a boil and been skimmed. It will be greatly improved by adding a -quarter of a peck of ochras cut into thin round slices. Both tomatos and -ochras require long and steady boiling with the meat. To lessen the -extreme acid of the tomatos, stir in a heaped table-spoonful of sugar. -Add also one large onion, peeled and minced small; and add two or three -bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. The soup must boil till the meat -is all to rags and the tomatos and ochras entirely dissolved, and their -forms undistinguishable. Pour it off carefully from the sediment into -the tureen, in the bottom of which have ready some toasted bread, cut -into small squares. - - -FINE TOMATO SOUP.--Take some nice fresh beef, and divest it of the bone -and fat. Sprinkle it with a little salt and pepper, and pour on water, -allowing to each pound of meat a pint and a half (not more) of water, -and boil and skim it till it is very thick and clear, and all the -essence seems to be drawn out of the meat. Scald and peel a large -portion of ripe tomatos--cut them in quarters, and laying them in a -stew-pan, let them cook in their own juice till they are entirely -dissolved. When quite done, strain the tomato liquid, and stir into it a -little sugar. In a third pan stew an equal quantity of sliced ochras -with a very little water; they must be stewed till their shape can no -longer be discerned. Strain separately the meat liquor, the tomatos, and -the ochras. Mix butter and flour together into a lump; knead it a -little, and when all the liquids are done and strained put them into a -clean soup-pan, stir in the flour and butter, and give the soup one boil -up. Transfer it to your tureen, and stir altogether. The soup made -precisely as above will be perfectly smooth and nice. Have little rolls -or milk biscuits to eat with it. - -This is a tomato soup for dinner company. - - -GREEN PEA SOUP.--Make a nice soup, in the usual way, of beef, mutton, or -knuckle of veal, cutting off all the fat, and using only the lean and -the bones, allowing a quart of water to each pound of meat. If the meat -is veal, add four or six calf's feet, which will greatly improve the -soup. Boil it slowly, (having slightly seasoned it with pepper and -salt,) and when it has boiled, and been well skimmed, and no more scum -appears, then put in a quart or more of freshly-shelled green peas, with -none among them that are old, hard, and yellow; and also a sprig or two -of green mint, and a little loaf sugar. Boil the peas till they are -entirely dissolved. Then (having removed all the meat and bones) strain -the soup through a sieve, and return it to the soup-pot, (which, in the -mean time, should have been washed clean,) and stir into it a tea-cupful -of green spinach juice, (obtained by pounding some spinach.) Have ready -(boiled, or rather stewed in another pot) a quart of young fresh peas, -enriched with a piece of fresh butter. These last peas should be boiled -tender, but not to a mash. After they are in, give the soup another boil -up, and then pour it off into a tureen, in the bottom of which has been -laid some toast cut into square bits, with the crust removed. This soup -should be of a fine green color, and very thick. - - -EXCELLENT BEAN SOUP.--Early in the evening of the day before you make -the soup, wash clean a large quart of dried white beans in a pan of cold -water, and about bedtime pour off that water, and replace it with a -fresh panful. Next morning, put on the beans to boil, with only water -enough to cook them well, and keep them boiling slowly till they have -all bursted, stirring them up frequently from the bottom, lest they -should burn. Meantime, prepare in a larger pot, a good soup made of a -shin of beef cut into pieces, and the hock of a cold ham, allowing a -large quart of water to each pound of meat. - -Season it with pepper only, (no salt,) and put in with it a head of -celery, split and cut small. Boil the soup (skimming it well) till the -meat is all in rags; then take it out, leaving not a morsel in the pot, -and put in the boiled beans. Let them boil in the soup till they are -undistinguishable, and the soup very thick. Put some small squares of -toast in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup upon it. - -There is said to be nothing better for making soup than the camp-kettle -of the army. Many of the common soldiers make their bean soup of -surpassing excellence. - - -SPLIT PEA SOUP.--In buying dried or split peas, see that they are not -old and worm-eaten. Wash two quarts of them over night in two or three -waters. In the morning make a rich soup of the lean of beef or mutton, -and the hock of a ham. Season it with pepper, but no salt. When it has -boiled, and been thoroughly skimmed, put in the split peas, with a head -of celery cut into small pieces, or else two table-spoonfuls of celery -seed. Let it boil till the peas are entirely dissolved and -undistinguishable. When it is finished strain the soup through a sieve, -divesting it of the thin shreds of meat and bits of bone. Then transfer -it to a tureen, in which has been laid some square bits of toast. Stir -it up to the bottom directly before it goes to table. - -You may boil in the soup (instead of the ham) a good piece (a rib -piece, or a fillet) of corned pork, more lean than fat. When it is done, -take the pork out of the soup, put it on a dish, and have ready to eat -with it a pease pudding boiled by itself, cut in thick slices and laid -round the pork. This pudding is made of a quart of split peas, soaked -all night, mixed with four beaten eggs and a piece of fresh butter, and -tied in a cloth and boiled three or four hours, or till the peas have -become a mass. - - -ASPARAGUS SOUP.--Make in the usual way a nice rich soup of beef or -mutton, seasoned with salt and pepper. After it has been well boiled and -skimmed, and the meat is all to pieces, strain the soup into another -pot, or wash out the same, and return to it the liquid. Have ready a -large quantity of fine fresh asparagus, with the stalks cut off close to -the green tops or blossoms. It should have been lying in cold water all -the time the meat was boiling. Put into the soup half of the asparagus -tops, and boil them in it till entirely dissolved, adding a tea-cupful -of spinach juice, obtained by pounding fresh spinach in a mortar. Stir -the juice well in and it will give a fine green color. Then add the -remaining half of the asparagus; having previously boiled them in a -small pan by themselves, till they are quite tender, but not till they -lose their shape. Give the whole one boil up together. Make some nice -slices of toast, (having cut off the crust.) Dip them a minute in hot -water. Butter them, lay them in the bottom of the tureen, and pour the -soup upon them. This (like green peas) will do for company soup. - - -CABBAGE SOUP.--Remove the fat and bone from a good piece of fresh beef, -or mutton--season it with a little salt and pepper, put it into a -soup-pot, with a quart of water allowed to each pound of meat. Boil, and -skim it till no more scum is seen on the surface. Then strain it, and -thicken it with flour and butter mixed. Have ready a fine fresh cabbage, -(a young summer one is best) and after it is well washed through two -cold waters, and all the leaves examined to see if any insects have -crept between, quarter the cabbage, (removing the stalk) and with a -cabbage-cutter, or a strong sharp knife, cut it into shreds. Or you may -begin the cabbage whole and cut it into shreds, spirally, going round -and round it with the knife. Put the cabbage into the clear soup, and -boil it till, upon trial, by taking up a little on a fork, you find it -quite tender and perfectly well cooked. Then serve it up in the tureen. -This is a family soup. - - -RED CABBAGE SOUP.--Red cabbages for soup should either be quartered, or -cut into shreds; it is made as above, of beef or mutton, and seasoned -with salt, pepper, and a jill of strong tarragon vinegar, or a -table-spoonful of mixed tarragon leaves, if in summer. - - -FINE CABBAGE SOUP.--Remove the outside leaves from a fine, fresh, large -cabbage. Cut the stalk short, and split it half-way down so as to divide -the cabbage into quarters, but do not separate it quite to the bottom. -Wash the cabbage, and lay it in cold water for half an hour or more. -Then set it over the fire in a pot full of water, adding a little salt, -and let it boil slowly for an hour and a half, or more--skimming it -well. Then take it out, drain it, and laying it in a deep pan, pour on -_cold_ water, and let it remain till the cabbage is cold all through. -Next, having drained it from the cold water, cut the cabbage in shreds, -(as for cold-slaw,) and put it into a clean pot containing a quart and a -pint of boiling milk into which you have stirred a quarter of a pound of -nice fresh butter, divided into four bits and rolled in flour, adding a -little pepper and a very little salt. Boil it in the milk till -thoroughly done and quite tender. Then make some nice toast, cut it into -squares, lay it in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup on it. This -being made without meat is a good soup for Lent. It will be improved by -stirring in, towards the last, two or three beaten eggs. - - -CAULIFLOWER SOUP.--Put into a soup-pot a knuckle of veal, and allow to -each pound a quart of water. Add a set of calf's feet that have been -singed and scraped, but not skinned; and the hock of a cold boiled ham. -Boil it till all the meat is in rags, and the soup very thick, seasoning -with cayenne and a few blades of mace, and adding, towards the last, -some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Boil in another pot, one or -two fine cauliflowers. They are best boiled in milk. When quite done and -very tender, drain them, cut off the largest stalks, and divide the -blossoms into small pieces; put them into a deep covered dish, lay some -fresh butter among them, and keep them hot till the veal soup is boiled -to its utmost thickness. Then strain it into a soup-tureen, and put into -it the cauliflower, grating some nutmeg upon it. This soup will be found -very fine, and is an excellent white soup for company. - -For Lent this soup may be made without meat, substituting milk, butter, -and flour, and eggs, as in the receipt for fine cabbage soup. Season it -with mace and nutmeg. If made with milk, &c., put no water on it, but -boil the cauliflower in milk from the beginning. This can easily be done -where milk is plenty. - - -FINE ONION SOUP.--Take a fine fresh neck of mutton, and to make a large -tureen of soup, you must have a breast of mutton also. Let the meat be -divided into chops, season it with a little salt, and put it in a -soup-pot--allow a quart of water to each pound of mutton. Boil, and skim -it till no more scum arises, and the meat drops in rags from the bones. -In a small pot boil in milk a dozen large onions, (or more,) adding -pepper, mace, nutmeg, and some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. The -onions should previously be peeled and sliced. When they are quite soft, -transfer them to the soup, with the milk, &c., in which they were -cooked. Give them one boil in the soup. Then pour it off, or strain it -into the tureen, omitting all the sediment, and bones, and shreds of -meat. Make some nice slices of toast, dipping each in boiling water, and -trimming off all the crust. Cut the toast into small squares, lay them -in the bottom of the tureen, and pour the soup upon them. Where there is -no objection to onions it will be much liked. - -If milk is plenty use it instead of water for onion soup. White soups -are always best when made with milk. - - -TURNIP SOUP.--For a very small family take a neck of mutton, and divide -it into steaks, omitting all the fat. For a family of moderate size, -take a breast as well as a neck. Put them into a soup-pot with -sufficient water to cover them, and let them stew till well browned. -Skim them carefully. Then pour on more water, in the proportion of a -pint to each pound of meat, and add eight or ten turnips pared and -sliced thin, with a very little pepper and salt. Let the soup boil till -the turnips are all dissolved, and the meat in rags. Add, towards the -last, some bits of butter rolled in flour, and in five minutes -afterwards the soup will be done. Carefully remove all the bits of meat -and bone before you send the soup to table. It will be found very good, -and highly flavored with the turnips. - -Onion soup may be made in the same manner. Parsnip soup also, cutting -the parsnips into small bits. Or all three--turnips, onions and -parsnips, may be used together. - - -PARSNIP SOUP.--The meat for this soup may either be fresh beef, mutton, -or fresh venison. Remove the fat, cut the meat into pieces, add a little -salt, and put it into a soup-pot, with an allowance of rather less than -a quart of water to each pound. Prepare some fine large parsnips, by -first scraping and splitting them, and cutting them into pieces; then -putting them into a frying pan, and frying them brown, in fresh butter -or nice drippings. When the soup has been boiled till the meat is all in -rags, and well skimmed--put into it the fried parsnips and let them boil -about ten minutes, but not till they break or go to pieces. Just before -you put in the parsnips, stir in a table-spoonful of thickening made -with butter and flour, mixed to a smooth paste. When you put it into the -tureen to go to table, be sure to leave in the pot all the shreds of -meat and bits of bone. - - -CARROT SOUP.--Take a good piece of fresh beef that has not been -previously cooked. Remove the fat. It is of no use in making soup; and -as it must all be skimmed off when boiling, it is better to clear it -away before the meat goes into the pot. Season the beef with a very -little salt and pepper, and allow a small quart of water to each pound. -Grate half a dozen or more large carrots on a coarse grater, and put -them to boil in the soup with some other carrots; cut them into pieces -about two inches long. When all the meat is boiled to rags, and has left -the bone, pour off the soup from the sediment, transferring it to a -tureen, and sending it to table with bread cut into it. - - -POTATO SOUP.--Pare and slice thin half a dozen fine potatos and a small -onion. Boil them in three large pints of water, till so soft that you -can pulp them through a cullender. When returned to the pot add a very -little salt and cayenne, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -divided into bits, and boil it ten minutes longer. When you put it into -the tureen, stir in two table-spoonfuls or more of good cream. This is a -soup for fast-days, or for invalids. - - -CHESTNUT SOUP.--Make, in the best manner, a soup of the lean of fresh -beef, mutton, or venison, (seasoned with cayenne and a little salt,) -allowing rather less than a quart of water to each pound of meat, -skimming and boiling it well, till the meat is all in rags, and drops -from the bone. Strain it, and put it into a clean pot. Have ready a -quart or more of large chestnuts, boiled and peeled. If roasted, they -will be still better. They should be the large Spanish chestnuts. Put -the chestnuts into the soup, with some small bits of fresh butter rolled -in flour. Boil the soup ten minutes longer, before it goes to table. - - -PORTABLE SOUP.--This is a very good and nutritious soup, made first into -a jelly, and then congealed into hard cakes, resembling glue. If well -made, it will keep for many months in a cool, dry place, and when -dissolved in hot water or gravy, will afford a fine liquid soup, very -convenient to carry in a box on a journey or sea voyage, or to use in a -remote place, where fresh meat for soup is not to be had. A piece of -this glue, the size of a large walnut, will, when melted in water, -become a pint bowl of soup; or by using less water, you may have it much -richer. If there is time and opportunity, boil with the piece of soup a -seasoning of sliced onion, sweet marjoram, sweet basil, or any herbs you -choose. Also, a bit of butter rolled in flour. - -To make portable soup, take two shins or legs of beef, two knuckles of -veal, and four unskinned calves' feet. Have the bones broken or cracked. -Put the whole into a large clean pot that will hold four gallons of -water. Pour in, at beginning, only as much water as will cover the meat -well, and set it over the fire, to heat gradually till it almost boils. -Watch and skim it carefully while any scum rises. Then pour in a quart -of cold water to make it throw up all the remaining scum, and then let -it come to a good boil, continuing to skim as long as the least scum -appears. In this be particular. When the liquid appears perfectly clear -and free from grease, pour in the remainder of the water, and let it -boil very gently for eight hours. Strain it through a very clean hair -sieve into a large stoneware pan, and set it where it will cool quickly. -Next day, remove all the remaining grease, and pour the liquid, as -quickly as possible, into a three-gallon stew-pan, taking care not to -disturb the settlings at the bottom. Keep the pan uncovered, and let it -boil as fast as possible over a quick fire. Next, transfer it to a -three-quart stew-pan, and skim it again, if necessary. Watch it well, -and see that it does not burn, as that would spoil the whole. Take out a -little in a spoon, and hold it in the air, to see if it will jelly. If -it will not, boil it a little longer. Till it jellies, it is not done. - -Have ready some small white ware preserve pots, clean, and quite dry. -Fill them with the soup, and let them stand undisturbed till next day. -Set, over a slow fire, a large flat-bottomed stew-pan, one-third filled -with boiling water. Place in it the pots of soup, seeing it does not -reach within two inches of their rims. Let the pots stand uncovered in -this water, hot, but without boiling, for six or seven hours. This will -bring the soup to a proper thickness, which should be that of a stiff -jelly, when hot; and when cold, it should be like hard glue. When -finished turn out the moulds of soup, and wrap them up separately in new -brownish paper, and put them up in boxes, breaking off a piece when -wanted to dissolve the soup. - -Portable soup may be improved by the addition of three pounds of nice -lean beef, to the shins, knuckles, calves' feet, &c. The beef must be -cut into bits. - -If you have any friends going the overland journey to the Pacific, a box -of portable soup may be a most useful present to them. - - -PEPPER-POT.--Have ready a small half pound of very nice white tripe, -that has been thoroughly boiled and skinned, in a pot by itself, till -quite soft and tender. It should be cut into very small strips or -mouthfuls. Put into another pot a neck of mutton, and a pound of lean -ham, and pour on it a large gallon of water. Boil it slowly, and skim -it. When the scum has ceased to rise, put in two large onions sliced, -four potatos quartered, and four sliced turnips. Season with a very -small piece of red pepper or capsicum, taking care not to make it too -hot. Then add the boiled tripe. Make a quart bowlful of small dumplings -of butter and flour, mixed with a very little water; and throw them into -the pepper-pot, which should afterwards boil about an hour. Then take -it up, and remove the meat before it is put into the tureen. Leave in -the bits of tripe. - - -NOODLE SOUP.--This soup may be made with either beef or mutton, but the -meat must be fresh for the purpose, and not cold meat, re-cooked. Cut -off all the fat, and break the bones. If boiled in the soup they improve -it. To each pound of meat allow a small quart of water. Boil and skim -it, till the meat drops from the bone. Put in with the meat, after the -scum has ceased to rise, some turnips, carrots and onions, cut in -slices, and boil them till all to pieces. Strain the soup, and return -the liquid to a clean pot. Have ready a large quantity of noodles, (in -French _nouillés_,) and put them into the strained soup; let them boil -in it ten minutes. The noodles are composed of beaten eggs, made into a -paste or dough, with flour and a very little fresh butter. This paste is -rolled out thin into a square sheet. This sheet is then closely rolled -up like a scroll or quire of thick paper, and then with a sharp knife -cut round into shreds, or shavings, as cabbage is cut for slaw. These -cuttings must be dredged with flour to prevent their sticking. Throw -them into the soup while boiling the second time, and let it boil for -ten minutes longer. - - -CHICKEN SOUP.--Cut up two large fine fowls, as if carving them for the -table, and wash the pieces in cold water. Take half a dozen thin slices -of cold ham, and lay them in a soup-pot, mixed among the pieces of -chicken. Season them with a very little cayenne, a little nutmeg, and a -few blades of mace, but no salt, as the ham will make it salt enough. -Add a head of celery, split and cut into long bits, a quarter of a pound -of butter, divided in two, and rolled in flour. Pour on three quarts of -milk. Set the soup-pot over the fire, and let it boil rather slowly, -skimming it well. When it has boiled an hour, put in some small round -dumplings, made of half a pound of flour mixed with a quarter of a pound -of butter; divide this dough into equal portions, and roll them in your -hands into little balls about the size of a large hickory nut. The soup -must boil till the flesh of the fowls is loose on the bones, but not -till it drops off. Stir in, at the last, the beaten yolks of three or -four eggs; and let the soup remain about five minutes longer over the -fire. Then take it up. Cut off from the bones the flesh of the fowls, -and divide it into mouthfuls. Cut up the slices of ham in the same -manner. Mince the livers and gizzards. Put the bits of fowl and ham in -the bottom of a large tureen, and pour the soup upon it. - -This soup will be found excellent, and may be made of large old fowls, -that cannot be cooked in any other way. If they are so old that when -the soup is finished they still continue tough, remove them entirely, -and do not serve them up at all. - -Similar soup may be made of a large old turkey. Also, of four rabbits. - - -DUCK SOUP.--Half roast a pair of fine large tame ducks, keeping them -half an hour at the fire, and saving the gravy, the fat of which must be -carefully skimmed off. Then cut them up; season them with black pepper; -and put them into a soup-pot with four or five small onions sliced thin, -a small bunch of sage, a thin slice of cold ham cut into pieces, a -grated nutmeg, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated. Add the gravy of -the ducks. Pour on, slowly, three quarts of boiling water from a kettle. -Cover the soup-pot, and set it over a moderate fire. Simmer it slowly -(skimming it well) for about four hours, or till the flesh of the ducks -is dissolved into small shreds. When done, strain it through a tureen, -the bottom of which is covered with toasted bread, cut into square dice -about two inches in size. - - -FRENCH WHITE SOUP.--Boil a knuckle of veal and four calves' feet in five -quarts of water, with three onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, four -heads of white celery cut small, a table-spoonful of whole pepper, and a -_small_ tea-spoonful of salt, adding five or six large blades of mace. -Let it boil very slowly, till the meat is in rags and has dropped from -the bone, and till the gristle has quite dissolved. Skim it well while -boiling. When done, strain it through a sieve into a tureen, or a deep -white-ware pan. Next day, take off all the fat, and put the jelly (for -such it ought to be) into a clean soup-pot with two ounces of -vermicelli, and set it over the fire. When the vermicelli is dissolved, -stir in, gradually, a pint of thick cream, while the soup is quite hot; -but do not let it come to a boil after the cream is in, lest it should -curdle. Cut up one or two French rolls in the bottom of a tureen, pour -in the soup, and send it to table. - - -COCOA-NUT SOUP.--Take eight calves' feet (two sets) that have been -scalded and scraped, but not skinned; and put them into a soup-kettle -with six or seven blades of mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated. -Pour on a gallon of water; cover the kettle, and let it boil very slowly -(skimming it well) till the flesh is reduced to rags and has dropped -entirely from the bones. Then strain it into a broad white-ware pan, and -set it away to get cold. When it has congealed, scrape off the fat and -sediment, cut up the cake of jelly, (or stock,) and put it into a clean -porcelain or enameled kettle. Have ready half a pound of very finely -grated cocoa-nut. Mix it with a pint of cream. If you cannot obtain -cream, take rich unskimmed milk, and add to it three ounces of the best -fresh butter divided into three parts, each bit rolled in arrow-root or -rice-flour. Mix it, gradually, with the cocoa-nut, and add it to the -calves-feet-stock in the kettle, seasoned with a small nutmeg grated. -Set it over the fire, and boil it, slowly, about a quarter of an hour; -stirring it well. Then transfer it to a tureen, and serve it up. Have -ready small French rolls, or light milk biscuit to eat with it; also -powdered sugar in case any of the company should wish to sweeten it. - - -ALMOND SOUP is made in the above manner, substituting pounded almonds -for the grated cocoa-nut. You must have half a pound of shelled sweet -almonds, mixed with two ounces of shelled bitter almonds. After -blanching them in hot water, they must be pounded to a smooth paste (one -at a time) in a marble mortar; adding frequently a little rose-water to -prevent their oiling, and becoming heavy. Or you may use peach-water for -this purpose; in which case omit the bitter almonds, as the peach-water -will give the desired flavor. When the pounded almonds are ready, mix -them with the other ingredients, as above. - -The calves' feet for these soups should be boiled either very early in -the morning, or the day before. - - -SPRING SOUP.--Unless your dinner hour is very late, the stock for this -soup should be made the day before it is wanted, and set away in a -stone pan, closely covered. To make the stock take a knuckle of veal, -break the bones, and cut it into several pieces. Allow a quart of water -to each pound of veal. Put it into a soup-pot, with a set of calves' -feet,[A] and some bits of cold ham, cut off near the hock. If you have -no ham, sprinkle in a tea-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoon of cayenne. -Place the pot over a _moderate_ fire, and let it simmer slowly (skimming -it well) for several hours, till the veal is all to rags and the flesh -of the calves' feet has dropped in shreds from the bones. Then strain -the soup; and if not wanted that day, set it away in a stone pan, as -above mentioned. - - [A] In buying calves' feet always get those that are singed, not - skinned. Much of the glutinous or jelly property resides in the skin. - -Next day have, ready boiled, two quarts or more of green peas, (they -must on no account be old,) and a pint of the green tops cut off from -asparagus boiled for the purpose. Pound a handful of raw spinach till -you have extracted a tea-cupful of the juice. Set the soup or stock over -the fire; add the peas, asparagus, and spinach juice, stirring them well -in; also a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four bits, -and rolled in flour. Let the whole come to a boil; and then take it off -and transfer it to a tureen. It will be found excellent. - -In boiling the peas for this soup, you may put with them half a dozen -sprigs of green mint, to be afterwards taken out. - -Late in the spring you may add to the other vegetables two cucumbers, -pared and sliced, and the whitest part or heart of a lettuce, boiled -together; then well drained, and put into the soup with the peas and -asparagus. It must be very thick with vegetables. - - -SUMMER SOUP.--Take a large neck of mutton, and hack it so as nearly to -cut it apart, but not quite. Allow a small quart of water to each pound -of meat, and sprinkle on a tea-spoonful of salt and a very little black -pepper. Put it into a soup-pot, and boil it _slowly_ (skimming it well) -till the meat is reduced to rags. Then strain the liquid, return it to -the soup-pot, and carefully remove all the fat from the surface. Have -ready half a dozen small turnips sliced thin, two young onions sliced, a -table-spoonful of sweet marjoram leaves picked from the stalks, and a -quart of shelled Lima beans. Put in the vegetables, and boil them in the -soup till they are thoroughly done. You may add to them two -table-spoonfuls of green nasturtion seeds, either fresh or pickled. Put -in also some little dumplings, (made of flour and butter,) about ten -minutes before the soup is done. - -Instead of Lima beans, you may divide a cauliflower or two broccolis -into sprigs, and boil them in the soup with the other vegetables. - -This soup may be made of a shoulder of mutton, cut into pieces and the -bones cracked. For a large potful add also the breast to the neck, -cutting the bones apart. - - -AUTUMN SOUP.--Begin this soup as early in the day as possible. Take six -pounds of the lean of fine fresh beef; cut it into small pieces; -sprinkle it with a tea-spoonful of salt, (not more); put it into a -soup-pot, and pour on six quarts of water. The hock of a cold ham will -greatly improve it. Set it over a moderate fire, and let it boil slowly. -After it comes to a boil, skim it well. Have ready a quarter of a peck -of ochras cut into very thin round slices, and a quarter of a peck of -tomatos cut into pieces; also a quart of shelled Lima beans. Season them -with pepper. Put them in; and after the whole has boiled three hours _at -least_, take four ears of young Indian corn, and having grated off all -the grains, add them to the soup and boil it an hour longer. Before you -serve up the soup remove from it all the bits of meat, which, if the -soup is sufficiently cooked, will be reduced to shreds. - -You may put in with the ochras and tomatos one or two sliced onions. The -soup, when done, should be as thick as a jelly. - -Ochras for soup may be kept all winter, by tying them separately to a -line stretched high across the store room. - - -WINTER SOUP.--The day before you make the soup, get a leg or shin of -beef. Have the bone sawed through in several places, and the meat -notched or scored down to the bone. This will cause the juice or essence -to come out more freely, when cooked. Rub it slightly with salt; cover -it, and set it away. Next morning, early as possible, as soon as the -fire is well made up, put the beef into a large soup-pot, allowing to -each pound a small quart of water. Then taste the water, and if the salt -that has been rubbed on the meat is not sufficient, add a very little -more. Throw in also a tea-spoonful of whole pepper-corns; and you may -add half a dozen blades of mace. Let it simmer slowly till it comes to a -boil; then skim it well. After it boils, you may quicken the fire. At -nine o'clock put in a large head of cabbage cut fine as for cold-slaw; -six carrots grated; the leaves stripped from a bunch of sweet marjoram; -and the leaves of a sprig of parsley. An hour afterwards, add six -turnips, and three potatoes, all cut into four or eight pieces. Also two -onions, which will be better if previously roasted brown, and then -sliced. Keep the soup boiling steadily, but not hard, unless the dinner -hour is very early. For a late dinner, there will be time to boil it -slowly all the while; and all soups are the better for long and slow -boiling. See that it is well skimmed, so that, when done, there will be -not a particle of fat or scum on the surface. At dinner-time take it up -with a large ladle, and transfer it to a tureen. In doing so, carefully -avoid the shreds of meat and bone. Leave them all in the bottom of the -pot, pressing them down with the ladle. A mass of shreds in the tureen -or soup-plate looks slovenly and disgusting, and should never be seen at -the table; also, they absorb too much of the liquid. Let the vegetables -remain in the soup when it is served up, but pick out every shred of -meat or bone that may be found in the tureen when ready to go to table. - -In very cold weather, what is left of this soup will keep till the -second day; when it must be simmered again over the fire, till it just -comes to a boil. Put it away in a tin or stone vessel. The lead which is -used in glazing earthen jars frequently communicates its poison to -liquids that are kept in them. - - -VEGETABLE SOUP--(_very good_.)--Soak all night, in cold water, either -two quarts of yellow split peas, or two quarts of dried white beans. In -the morning drain them, and season them with a very little salt and -cayenne, and a head of minced celery, or else a heaped table-spoonful of -celery seed. Put them into a soup-pot with four quarts of water, and -boil them slowly till they are all dissolved and undistinguishable. Stir -them frequently. Have ready a profuse quantity of fresh vegetables, such -as turnips, carrots, parsnips, potatos, onions, and cauliflowers; also, -salsify, and asparagus tops. Put in, first, the vegetables that require -the longest boiling. They should all be cut into small pieces. Enrich -the whole with some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Boil these -vegetables in the soup till they are all quite tender. Then transfer it -to a tureen, and serve it up hot. - -The foundation being of dried peas or beans, makes it very thick and -smooth, and the fresh vegetables improve its flavor. It is a good soup -for Lent, or for any time, if properly and liberally made. - -All vegetable soups can be made in Lent without meat, if milk is -substituted for water, and with butter, beaten eggs and spice, to flavor -and enrich it. - - -FRENCH POT AU FEU.--This is one of the national dishes of France. The -following is a genuine French receipt, and it would be found very -palatable and very convenient if tried in our own land of plenty. The -true French way to cook it is in an earthen pipkin, such as can be had -in any pottery shop. The French vessel has a wide mouth, and -close-fitting lid, with a handle at each side, in the form of circular -ears. It is large and swelling in the middle, and narrows down towards -the bottom. The American pipkin has a short thick spout at one side, and -stands on three or four low feet. No kitchen should be without these -vessels, which are cheap, very strong, and easily kept clean. They can -sit on a stove, or in the corner of the fire, and are excellent for slow -cooking. - -The wife of a French artisan commences her pot au feu soon after -breakfast, prepares the ingredients, puts them, by degrees, into the -pot, attends to it during the day; and when her husband has done his -work she has ready for him an excellent and substantial repast, far -superior to what in our country is called a _tea-dinner_. Men frequently -indemnify themselves for the poorness of a tea-dinner by taking a dram -of whiskey afterwards. A Frenchman is satisfied with his excellent pot -au feu and some fruit afterwards. The French are noted as a temperate -nation. If they have eaten to their satisfaction they have little -craving for drink. Yet there is no country in the world where so much -good eating might be had as in America. But to live well, and -wholesomely, there should also be good cooking, and the wives of our -artisans must learn to think more of the comfort, health, and -cheerfulness of him who in Scotland is called the _bread-winner_, than -of their own finery, and their children's uncomfortable frippery. - -_Receipt._--For a large pot au feu, put into the pipkin six pounds of -good fresh beef cut up, and pour on it four quarts of water. Set it near -the fire, skim it when it simmers, and when nearly boiling, add a -tea-spoonful of salt, half a pound of liver cut in pieces, and some -black pepper. Then add two or three large carrots, sliced or grated on a -coarse grater; four turnips, pared and quartered; eight young onions -peeled and sliced thick, two of the onions roasted whole; a head of -celery cut up; a parsnip split and cut up; and six potatos, pared, -sliced, or quartered. In short any good vegetables now in season, -including tomatos in summer and autumn. Also a bunch of sweet herbs, -chopped small. Let the whole continue to boil slowly and _steadily_; -remembering to skim well. Let it simmer slowly five or six hours. Then, -having laid some large slices of bread in the bottom of a tureen, or a -very large pan or bowl, pour the stew or soup upon it; all the meat, and -all the vegetables. If you have any left, recook it the next morning for -breakfast, and _that day_ you may prepare something else for dinner. - -For beef you may substitute mutton, or fresh venison, if you live in a -venison country, and can get it newly killed. - - -WILD DUCK SOUP.--This is a company soup. If you live where wild ducks -are abundant, it will afford an agreeable variety occasionally to make -soup of some of them. If you suspect them to be sedgy or fishy, (you can -ascertain by the smell when drawing or cleaning them,) parboil each -duck, with a carrot put into his body. Then take out the carrot and -throw it away. You will find that the unpleasant flavor has left the -ducks, and been entirely absorbed by the carrots. To make the soup--cut -up the ducks, season the pieces with a little salt and pepper, and lay -them in a soup-pot. For a good pot of soup you should have four wild -ducks. Add two or three sliced onions, and a table-spoonful of minced -sage. Also a quarter of a pound of butter divided into four, and each -piece rolled in flour. Pour in water enough to make a rich soup, and -let it boil slowly till all the flesh has left the bones,--skim it well. -Thicken it with boiled or roasted chestnuts, peeled, and then mashed -with a potato beetle. A glass of Madeira or sherry will be found an -improvement, stirred in at the last, or the juice and grated peel of a -lemon. In taking it up for the tureen, be careful to leave all the bones -and bits of meat in the bottom of the pot. - - -VENISON SOUP.--Take a large fine piece of freshly killed venison. It is -best at the season when the deer are fat and juicy, from having plenty -of wild berries to feed on. I do not consider winter-venison worth -eating, when the meat is poor and hard, and affords no gravy, and also -is black from being kept too long. When venison is fresh and in good -order it yields a fine soup, allowing a small quart of water to each -pound of meat. When it has boiled well, and been skimmed, put in some -small dumplings made of flour and minced suet, or drippings. Also, -boiled sweet potatos, cut into round thick slices. You may add boiled -sweet corn cut off the cob; and, indeed, whatever vegetables are in -season. The soup-meat should boil till all the flesh is loose on the -bones, and the bits and shreds should not be served up. - -The best pieces of buffalo make good soup. - - -GAME SOUP.--Take partridges, pheasants, grouse, quails, or any of the -birds considered as game. You may put in here as many different sorts as -you can procure. They must all be fresh killed. When they are cleaned -and plucked, cut them in pieces as for carving, and put them into a -soup-pot, with four calves' feet and some slices of ham, two sticks of -celery, and a bundle of sweet herbs chopped small, and water enough to -cover the whole well. Boil and skim well, till all the flesh is loose -from the bones. Strain the liquid through a sieve into a clean pot, then -thicken it with fresh butter rolled in flour. Add some force-meat balls -that have been already fried; or else some hard-boiled yolks of eggs; -some currant jelly, or some good wine into which a half-nutmeg has been -grated; the juice of two oranges or lemons, and the grated yellow peel -of one lemon. Give the soup another boil up, and then send it to table, -having bread rolls to eat with it. - -This is a fine soup for company. Venison soup may be made in this -manner. Hare soup also. - - -SQUATTER'S SOUP.--Take plenty of _fresh-killed_ venison, as fat and -juicy as you can get it. Cut the meat off the bones and put it (with the -bones) into a large pot. Season it with pepper and salt, and pour on -sufficient water to make a good rich soup. Boil it slowly (remembering -to skim it well) till the meat is all in rags. Have ready some ears of -young sweet corn. Boil them in a pot by themselves till they are quite -soft. Cut the grains off the cob into a deep dish. Having cleared the -soup from shreds and bits of bone left at the bottom of the pot, stir in -a thickening made of indian meal mixed to a paste with a little fresh -lard, or venison gravy. And afterwards throw in, by degrees, the cut -corn. Let all boil together, till the corn is soft, or for about half an -hour. Then take it up in a large pan. It will be found very good by -persons who never were squatters. This soup, with a wild turkey or a -buffalo hump roasted, and stewed grapes sweetened well with maple sugar, -will make a good backwoods dinner. - - -MOCK TURTLE SOUP.--Boil together a knuckle of veal (cut up) and a set of -calves' feet, split. Also the hock of a cold boiled ham. Season it with -cayenne pepper; but the ham will render it salt enough. You may add a -smoked tongue. Allow, to each pound of meat, a small quart of water. -After the meat has come to a boil and been well skimmed, add half a -dozen sliced parsnips, three sliced onions, and a head of celery cut -small, with a large bunch of sweet marjoram, and two large carrots -sliced. Boil all together till the vegetables are nearly dissolved and -the meat falls from the bone. Then strain the whole through a cullender, -and transfer the liquid to a clean pot. Have ready some fine large -sweetbreads that have been soaked in warm water for an hour till all -the blood was disgorged; then transferred to boiling water for ten -minutes, and then taken out and laid in very cold water. This will -blanch them, and all sweetbreads should look white. Take them out; and -remove carefully all the pipe or gristle. Cut the sweetbreads in pieces -or mouthfuls, and put them into the pot of strained soup. Have ready -about two or three dozen (or more) of force-meat balls, made of cold -minced veal and ham seasoned with nutmeg and mace, enriched with butter, -and mixed with grated lemon-peel, bread-crumbs, chopped marjoram and -beaten eggs, to make the whole into smooth balls about the size of a -hickory nut. Throw the balls into the soup, and add a fresh lemon, -sliced thin, and a pint of Madeira wine. Give it one more boil up; then -put it into a tureen and send it to table. - -This ought to be a rich soup, and is seldom made except for dinner -company. - -If the above method is _exactly_ followed, there will be found no -necessity for taking the trouble and enduring the disgust and -tediousness of cleaning and preparing a calf's head for mock turtle -soup--a very unpleasant process, which too much resembles the horrors of -a dissecting room. And when all is done a calf's head is a very insipid -article. - -It will be found that the above is superior to any mock turtle. Made of -shin beef, with all these ingredients, it is very rich and fine. - - -FISH SOUP.--All fish soups should be made with milk, (if unskimmed so -much the better,) using no water whatever. The best fish for soup are -the small sort of cat-fish; also tutaug, porgie, blue fish, white fish, -black fish or sea-bass. Cut off their heads, tails, and fins, and remove -the skin, and the backbone, and cut the fish into pieces. To each pound -of fish allow a quart of rich milk. Put into the soup-pot some pieces of -cold boiled ham. No salt will then be required; but season with cayenne -pepper, and a few blades of mace and some grated nutmeg. Add a bunch of -sweet marjoram, the leaves stripped from the stalks and chopped. Make -some little dumplings of flour and butter, and put them in when the soup -is about half done. Half an hour's steady boiling will be sufficient. -Serve up in the tureen the pieces of fish and ham. Also some toast cut -in dice. - -Soup may be made in this manner, of chickens or rabbits, using always -milk enriched with bits of butter rolled in flour and flavored with bits -of cold ham. - - -LOBSTER SOUP.--This is a fine soup for company. Take two or three fine -fresh lobsters, (the middle sized are the best.) Heat a large pot of -water, throwing in a large handful of salt. When it is boiling hard put -in the lobsters, head foremost, that they may die immediately. They will -require at least half an hour's fast boiling; if large, three quarters. -When done, take them out, wipe off the scum that has collected on the -shell, and drain the lobster. First break off the large claws, and crack -them, then split the body, and extract all the white meat, and the red -coral--nothing else--and cut it into small pieces. Mash the coral into -smooth bits with the back of a large spoon, mixing with it plenty of -sweet oil; and, gradually, adding it to the bits of chopped lobster. Put -into a clear soup-pot two quarts, or more, of good milk, and thicken it -with half a dozen crackers or butter-biscuit, pounded fine; or the -grated crumbs of two or three small rolls, and stir in a quarter of a -pound of fresh butter made into a paste with two spoonfuls of flour. Put -in the chopped lobster, seasoned with nutmeg, a few blades of mace -powdered, and a little cayenne. Let all boil together, slowly, for half -an hour, keeping it closely covered. Towards the last, stir in two -beaten eggs. Lay some very small soda biscuit in the bottom of a tureen, -and pour the soup upon them. Nasturtion flowers strewed at the last -thickly over the surface of this soup, when in the tureen, are an -improvement both to its appearance and flavor. So is peppergrass. - - -CRAB SOUP.--Take the meat of two dozen boiled crabs, cut it small, and -give it a boil in two quarts of milk. Season it with powdered mace, -nutmeg, and a little cayenne, and thicken it with butter mixed in flour; -or, make the flour and butter into little dumplings. Have ready half a -dozen yolks of hard-boiled eggs, and crumble them into the soup just -before you take it from the fire. Add the heart of a fresh green -lettuce, cut small and strewed over the surface of the soup, after it is -poured into the tureen. - - -OYSTER SOUP.--Strain the liquor from one hundred oysters, and carefully -remove any bits of shell or particles of sea-weed. To every pint of -oyster liquor allow an equal quantity of rich milk. Season it with whole -pepper and some blades of mace. Add a head of celery, washed, scraped, -and minced small. Put the whole into a soup-pot, and boil and skim it -well. When it boils put in the oysters. Also, a quarter of a pound of -fresh butter; divide into four pieces, each piece rolled in flour. If -you can procure cream, add a half-pint, otherwise boil some six eggs -hard, and crumble the yolks into the soup. After the oysters are in give -them but one boil up, just sufficient to plump them. If boiled longer -they will shrink and shrivel and lose their taste. Take them all out and -set them away to cool. When the soup is done, place in the bottom of the -tureen some small square pieces of nicely toasted bread cut into dice, -and pour on the soup; grate in a nutmeg and then add the oysters. Serve -it up very hot. - -Another way is to chop or cut small the oysters, omitting the hard part. -Make the soup as above, and put in the minced oysters at the last, -letting them boil but five minutes. Mix the powdered nutmeg with them. -This is a good way, if you make but a small quantity of soup. - - -CLAM SOUP.--Having washed clean the outside shells of a hundred small -sand clams, (or scrubbed them with a brush,) put them into a large pot -of boiling water. When they open their shells take them out with a -ladle, and as you do so, put them into a cullender to drain off the -liquor. Then extract the clams from the shells with a knife. Save a -quart of the liquor, putting the clams in a pitcher by themselves. Mix -with the quart of liquor, in a clean pot, two quarts of rich milk. Put -in the clams, and add some pepper-corns and some blades of mace. Also, a -bunch of sweet marjoram, the leaves stripped off and minced. After all -has boiled well for an hour, add half a pound, or more, of nice fresh -butter, made into little dumplings with flour; also a pint of grated -bread-crumbs. Let it boil a quarter of an hour longer. Then pour the -soup off from the clams and leave them in the bottom of the pot. They -will not now be worth eating. If you cannot obtain small clams, you may -cut large ones in pieces, but they are very coarse and tough. - - -FAST-DAY SOUP.--_For winter._--Having soaked all night two quarts of -split peas, put them into a soup-pot, adding a sliced onion, two heads -of celery, the stalks split and cut small; a table-spoonful of chopped -mint, another of marjoram, and two beets, that have been previously -boiled and sliced. Mix all these with half a pound of fresh butter cut -into pieces and dredged with flour. Season with a little salt and -pepper. Pour on rather more than water enough to cover the whole. Let -them boil till all the things are quite tender, and the peas dissolved. -When done, cover the bottom of a tureen with small square bits of toast, -and pour in the contents of the soup-pot. - -It is a good way to boil the split peas in a pot by themselves, till -they are quite dissolved, and then add them to the ingredients in the -other pot. - -Vegetable soups require a large portion of vegetables, and butter -always, as a substitute for meat. - - -FRIDAY SOUP.--_For summer._--This is a fast-day soup. Pare and slice six -cucumbers, and cut up the white part or heart of six lettuces; slice two -onions, and cut small the leaves of six sprigs of fresh green mint, -unless mint is disliked by the persons that are to eat the soup; in -which case, substitute parsley. Add a quart of young green peas. Put the -whole into a soup-pot, with as much water as will more than cover them -well. Season slightly with salt and a little cayenne, and add half a -pound of nice fresh butter, divided into six, each piece dredged well -with flour. Boil the whole for an hour and a half. Then serve it up, -without straining; having colored it green with a tea-cup of pounded -spinach juice. - -When green peas are out of season, you may substitute tomatos peeled and -quartered. - -This soup, having no meat, is chiefly for fast days, but will be found -good at any time. - - -BAKED SOUP.--On the days that you bake bread, you may have a dish of -thick soup with very little trouble, by putting into a large earthen jug -or pipkin, or covered pan, the following articles:--Two pounds of -_fresh_ beef, or mutton, cut into small slices, having first removed the -fat; two sliced onions and four carrots, and four parsnips cut in four; -also, four turnips, six potatos pared and cut up, and half a dozen -tomatos, peeled and quartered. Season the whole with a little salt and -pepper. A large beet, scraped and cut up, will be an improvement. To -these things pour on three quarts of water. Cover the earthen vessel, -and set it in the oven with the bread, and let the soup bake at the same -time. - -If the bread is done before the dinner hour, you must keep the soup -still longer in the oven. - -Do not use _cold_ meat for this or any other soup, unless you are very -poor. - - - - -FISH. - - -TO CLEAN FISH.--This must always be done with the greatest care and -nicety. If sent to table imperfectly cleaned, they are disgraceful to -the cook, and disgusting to the sight and taste. Handle the fish -lightly; not roughly so as to bruise it. Wash it well, but do not leave -it in the water longer than is needful. It will lose its flavor, and -become insipid, if soaked. To scale it, lay the fish flat upon one side, -holding it firmly in the left hand, and with the right taking off the -scales by means of a knife. When both sides are done, pour sufficient -cold water over it to float off all the loose scales that may have -escaped your notice. It is best to pump on it. Then proceed to open and -empty the fish. Be sure that not the smallest particle of the entrails -is left in. Scrape all carefully from the backbone. Wash out all the -blood from the inside. A dexterous cook can draw a fish without -splitting it entirely down, all the way from head to tail. Smelts and -other small fish are drawn or emptied at the gills. - -All fish should be cleaned or drawn as soon as they are brought in, and -then kept on ice, till the moment for cooking. - - -TO BOIL FISH.--No fish can be fit to eat unless the eyes are prominent -and lively, the gills very red, and the body firm and stiff, springing -back immediately when bent round to try them. Every scale must be -carefully scraped off, and the entrails entirely extracted; not the -smallest portion being carelessly left sticking to the backbone. -Previous to cooking, fish of every kind should be laid in cold water, -and the blood thoroughly washed from the inside. Few fish are not the -better for being put on to boil in cold water, heating gradually with it -till it comes to a boil. If you put it on in boiling water, the outside -becomes boiling hot too soon; and is apt to break and come off in -flakes, while the inside still remains hard and underdone: halibut, -salmon, cod, and other large thick fish must be boiled slowly and -thoroughly throughout, taking nearly as long as meat. Always put salt -into the water at the commencement, and a little vinegar towards the -last. In every kitchen should be a large oval kettle purposely for -boiling fish. This kettle has a movable strainer inside. The fish lies -on the strainer. To try if it is done, run a thin sharp knife in it, -till it reaches the backbone; and see if the flesh will loosen or -separate easily. If it adheres to the bone it requires more boiling. -When quite done, leave it no longer in the kettle, or it will lose its -flavor and get a woolly look. Take out the strainer with the fish upon -it. Drain off the water through the strainer, cover the fish with a -folded napkin or fine towel, doubled thick; transfer it to a heated -dish, and keep it warm and dry till it goes to table, directly after the -soup. In the mean time prepare the sauce to be served up along with the -fish. - - -FRYING FISH.--Fish should be fried in _very good_ fresh butter, or nice -beef drippings; or else in lard, which last, is the most usual method. A -large allowance of lard should be put into the pan, and held over a -clear fire, till it becomes so hot as to boil fast in the pan. Till the -lard hisses and bubbles do not put in the fish. They must first be dried -separately in a clean cloth, and then scored on the back in deep -incisions, or gashes, and slightly dredged with flour. Unless the lard -is amply sufficient in quantity to cover the fish well, and bear them up -towards the surface, they will sink heavily to the bottom of the pan, -and perhaps stick there and burn. Also, if there is not fat enough, the -fish will absorb the whole of what there is, and become dark-colored and -greasy. - - -BAKED FISH.--This is a dish for company. You may bake in the same manner -a shad, a fresh codfish, a sheep's head, a white fish, or a blue fish, -or a pair of large black fish. Trout also are considered fish for -baking. Cut off the head, and split the fish nearly down to the tail. -For a stuffing, cut two slices of nice light wheat bread, of shape and -size to fit easily into the inside of the fish, and spread them thickly -with very new fresh butter. Season them with cayenne and powdered mace, -and moisten them with port wine or sherry. Add the juice and yellow rind -of a lemon, grated; and sufficient powdered white sugar to take off the -extreme acid of the last. Fill the body of the fish with this stuffing, -kept in by tying round the fish, carefully, a white cotton cord, or -tape, so as to confine it in several places. Lay bits of fresh butter -over the outside, at equal distances. Place the fish on a trivet, in a -bake pan, and pour round it a pint of wine and water mixed. Baste it -with this frequently while baking. It will require at least an hour in a -quick oven. If the basting does not leave sufficient gravy, add half a -pint more of wine mixed with a little hot water. - -When you have taken up the fish, keep it hot while you are finishing the -gravy, which you should thicken and enrich by stirring in smoothly a -piece of butter mixed slightly into a paste with flour, and seasoned -with grated nutmeg. Serve up the gravy in a sauce-boat, and lay slices -of lemon along the back of the fish, having, of course, removed the -string that was wound around it to confine the stuffing. Send to table -with the baked fish, a dish of potatos mashed with milk and butter, and -browned on the surface with a salamander, or a red hot shovel. Always -remove the seeds of lemon slices. Fresh mackerel may be baked thus. - -Fish may be baked plainly, with a stuffing of sweet marjoram, minced -sage, and onion, (previously boiled and drained,) a little butter, or -finely chopped beef suet, and plenty of grated bread crumbs, seasoned -with a little black pepper. Or instead of crumbs you may put in slices -of bread and butter soaked in milk, and secured as above from falling -out while the fish is baking. - - -STEWED FISH.--Take any nice fresh fish of moderate size, and when it is -drawn and washed, cut it into three or four pieces, and put them into a -stew-pan with amply sufficient hot water to keep them from burning. -Season them with a little salt and cayenne. After it has simmered -steadily for half an hour, and been skimmed, have ready a quarter of a -pound of fresh butter, mixed into a smooth paste with a heaped -table-spoonful of flour. Add this to the stew, with a bunch of sweet -marjoram chopped fine, and a sprig of chopped parsley. If approved, add -a small onion pared and sliced very thin. Cover it closely, and let it -stew another half hour. Then send it to table. This is a family dish. -Any fresh fish may be stewed thus. - - -SPICED FISH.--Cold fish that has been left at dinner is very nice to put -away for the supper table. It should be fresh salmon, fresh cod, -rock-fish, halibut, or the remains of any other large fine fish. Take -out the back bone, and cut the flesh into moderate sized pieces. Lay it -in a deep dish that has a cover. Season the fish with cayenne pepper, a -little salt, some grated nutmeg, and some blades of mace; also some -whole black pepper-corns, and pour over it plenty of good cider vinegar. -Tarragon vinegar will be an improvement. Cover it closely, and set it in -a cold place till wanted. If in spring or summer, set it in ice. - -We do not recommend cloves or allspice. The taste of those coarse spices -is so overpowering, (and to many persons so unpleasant,) that they are -now nearly out of use at good tables. - -Nutmeg, mace and ginger, will be found much better, and with cinnamon -occasionally, are sufficient for all spice seasonings. Nevertheless, for -those who like them, a few cloves will relieve the insipidity of -halibut. - - -FISH CAKES.--Take codfish (either fresh or salt) that has been boiled -the day before. Carefully remove the bones, and mince the flesh. Mix -with it a quantity of warm mashed potatos, (mashed with butter and milk) -in the proportion of one third codfish, and two thirds mashed potatos. -Add sufficient beaten egg to make the whole into a smooth paste. Season -it with cayenne; and, if the mixture seems dry, moisten and enrich it -with a little butter. Make it into cakes about an inch thick, and as -large round as the top of a common sized tea-cup. Or into round balls. -Sprinkle them well with flour. - -Fry them in lard, or beef-drippings. When one side is done turn them -over. Drain them, and send them to the breakfast table. If approved, you -may add to the mixture two or three onions boiled and minced. Any large -cold fish may be dressed in this manner for next morning's breakfast. - - -ROCK-FISH.--Rock-fish are generally plain boiled, (with the heads and -tails left on,) and they are eaten with egg sauce, (hard boiled eggs -chopped, and mixed with melted or drawn butter,) seasoned with a little -cayenne. Put on the side of your plate, any nice fish sauce from the -castors. Some serve up rock-fish with hard boiled eggs, cut into halves, -and laid closely in a row along the back of the fish; half an egg being -helped to each person. Cold butter is then eaten with it. We think this -a very nice way. - -Blue fish, white fish, and black fish, may be drest in this manner. -Also, sea-bass. - - -BLACK FISH AND SEA-BASS--Are all boiled in the same manner, having first -carefully scaled, and drawn, and well washed them. In drawing fish take -care that the whole of the inside is nicely scraped from the back-bone, -all along. When ready, dredge a clean soft cloth with flour, wrap the -fish in it; lay it on the strainer of a fish-kettle, and put it in -plenty of water, into which has been thrown a small table-spoonful of -salt. Keep it steadily boiling near half an hour. Take it carefully out -of the cloth, drain it on the strainer, and keep it warm. Send to table -with it egg-sauce. - -Eat mashed potatos with it. - -_Frying._--To fry the above fish,--cut them in two or three pieces; wash -them and wipe them dry; score them with deep cuts, and season with -cayenne and a little salt--dredge them with flour, and fry them brown in -a pan nearly full of boiling lard. - -Any fish may be fried in this manner. - - -FRESH COD.--A fine codfish should be very thick about the neck; the eyes -lively; the gills red; and the flesh firm and white. If flabby, it is -not good. It is in season from October till May. After scaling, -emptying, washing, and drying, cover it, and let it rest for an hour. -Then put it on in a fish-kettle of _cold_ water, (hard water if you can -procure it,) throw in a small handful of salt, and let the cod heat -gradually, skimming it well. Boil it gently, but steadily, till -thoroughly done. Then, take it out of the kettle, drain it, and keep it -warm till ready to go to table. No fish should be allowed to remain in -the water after the boiling is quite over. Serve it up with oyster or -lobster sauce. - -You may broil fresh cod in steaks, or fry it in cutlets. For frying -fish, you may use beef or veal drippings, with the fat skimmed off -carefully. Mutton fat (which is tallow) is unfit for all cookery. - - -TROUT.--Trout is considered a very nice fish, and is in season in the -summer. When fresh it is a fine flesh color, and its spots are very -bright. To fry trout, dry them in a cloth. Score them deeply, and touch -each incision or cut with a little cayenne. Dredge them with flour. -Grate some bread-crumbs very fine, and in another pan beat some eggs -very light and thick. Dip each fish twice in the egg, and twice in the -crumbs, and fry them in plenty of boiling lard, or in a mixture of lard -and fresh butter. When done, drain them, and send them to table with a -dish of cucumbers sliced and dressed in the usual way, with vinegar, -pepper and salt. - -If boiled, serve them up with egg sauce. If broiled, eat them with cold -butter and cayenne. - - -STEWED TROUT.--This is a dish for company. Mix together as much cold -water and sweet white wine, in equal quantities, as will well cover the -fish. When done, take them out of the stew pan, drain them, and keep -them hot while you prepare the gravy. For this, thicken the liquid with -a piece of fresh butter divided into four, each bit rolled in flour; and -add two or more well-beaten eggs, and season with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Mix all this together, give it one boil up, and pour it over the -trout, after they are dished for table. - - -BAKED TROUT.--Having cleaned the trout, wrap each fish in a very thin -slice of bacon, sprinkled with minced sweet marjoram, and seasoned with -cayenne and mace. Inclose each fish in a white paper, cut larger than to -fit exactly. Fasten the papers with strings or pins, to be removed -before the fish goes to table. Lay the trout in a square tin pan, and -bake them in the papers, which must be taken off when the fish are done; -but serve them up with the bacon round them or not, as you please. - - -SALT COD.--The afternoon before the fish is to be eaten, put it to soak -in plenty of cold water. Cover it, and let it stand in a warm place all -night. In the morning pour off that water, wash the fish clean, and -scrub the outside with a brush. Put it into a kettle with cold water -sufficient to cover it well; and let it boil fast till near dinner time, -skimming it well. About half an hour before dinner, pour off this -boiling water, and substitute a sufficiency of cold. In this last water -give the fish one boil up. Send it to table with egg sauce, made with -plenty of butter, and hard-boiled eggs cut in half, and laid closely -along the back of the fish, to be helped with it. Accompany the cod with -a plate of sliced beets drest with vinegar. - -Next morning you may take what is left, and having removed all the bone, -mince the fish, and mix it with an equal quantity of mashed potatos, -adding some butter, pepper, and raw egg. Make the whole into balls or -flat cakes, and fry them in drippings or lard. They are good at -breakfast. On every one put a small spot of pepper. - - -FRIED SMELTS.--The smelt is a very nice little fish, which has a -peculiarly sweet and delicate flavor of its own, that requires, to be -tasted in perfection, no other cooking than plain broiling or frying in -fresh lard. Do not wash them, but wipe them dry in a clean cloth; having -opened and drawn them, (they should be drawn through the gills,) and cut -off the heads and tails, dredge them with flour. The frying-pan must be -more than two-thirds full of boiling lard; boiling hard when the smelts -are put in, so as to float them on the surface. If there is not -sufficient lard, or if it is not boiling, the fish will sink and be dark -colored, and greasy. About ten minutes are sufficient for the small -ones, and fifteen for those of a larger size. When done, drain off the -lard and send them to the breakfast table on a hot dish. - -If you prefer retaining the heads and tails, dish them, alternately, -with the heads up and tails down. - - -FRIED CAT-FISH.--The best cat-fish are the small ones. If too large, -they are generally coarse and strong. They must be cooked quite fresh; -if possible, directly out of the water. They are very popular at fishing -parties. Wash and clean them, cutting off their heads and tails, and -removing the upper part of the back-bone, near the shoulders. Score them -along the back, with deep gashes or incisions. Dredge them with flour, -and fry them in plenty of lard, boiling fast when the cat-fish are put -into the pan. Or, you may fry them in the drippings or gravy saved from -roast beef, or veal. They are very nice dipped in a batter of beaten egg -and grated bread-crumbs, or they may be done in a plain, though not so -nice a way, with indian meal instead of bread-crumbs. Drain off the lard -before you dish them. Touch each incision or cut, _very slightly_, with -a little cayenne before they go to table. - -Cat-fish are a breakfast dish, and are also eaten at supper. Porgie and -tutaug are cooked in this manner. - -Any fish may be fried as above, when not split open. - - -FINE CHOWDER.--This is Commodore Stovens's receipt:--Take four -table-spoonfuls of minced onions that have been fried with slices of -salt pork; two pilot-biscuits broken up; one table-spoonful of minced -sweet marjoram, and one of sweet basil; a quarter of a bottle of -mushroom catchup; half a bottle of port wine; half a nutmeg grated; a -few cloves, and mace, and pepper-corns; six pounds of fresh cod, and -sea-bass, cut in slices. Put the whole into a pot, with water enough to -cover it about an inch. Boil it steadily for an hour, carefully stirring -it. Serve it up hot in a large deep dish. - -Chowder may be made as above, substituting clams for the cod. The clams -must be chopped small. You may, for variety, make chowder with oysters, -or with boiled lobsters, or crabs; always beginning the mixture with -pork fried with onions. - - -YANKEE CHOWDER.--Having sliced very thin some salt fat pork, season it -with pepper, lay it in the bottom of a large iron pot, set it over the -fire, and let it fry. When done, take out the pork, leaving the liquid -fat in the bottom. Next, peel and slice some onions, and lay them on the -fat. Pour in sufficient clam or oyster liquor to stew the onions. Have -ready a sufficient quantity of sea-bass, black fish, tutaug, porgie, -haddock, or fresh cod. Cut the fish in small pieces, and put it into the -pot. Add plenty of potatos pared and quartered. Then some clam liquor; -and lastly, some crackers, (soaked and split,) or some soda biscuit; the -crackers to cover the top. If you wish to fill a large pot, repeat all -these ingredients, arranging them in layers. If there is not gravy -enough, add some boiling milk, poured in at the last, and enriched with -bits of butter mixed with flour. Cover the pot closely, and let it stew -half an hour, or more, till all the contents are thoroughly done. You -may bake the chowder in an iron oven, over a wood fire, heaping live -coals on the oven lid. - - -CLAM CHOWDER.--Put into boiling water from fifty to a hundred of the -small sand clams; and when all their shells have opened, take them out, -as they are then sufficiently boiled. Extract all the hard, or tough, -uneatable part, and throw it away. Slice thin as much salt pork as, when -fried in the bottom of a large pot, will produce half a pint of liquid -or gravy. Take out all the pork, leaving the liquid in the pot. Add to -it a layer of clams. Then a layer of biscuit soaked in milk or warm -water. Next another layer of clams; then another layer of soaked -biscuit; then more clams. Season it with pepper and mace. If there is no -objection to onions, add three or four boiled and sliced, and some -minced marjoram. Also, some potatos, boiled, peeled, and quartered. Let -the last layer be clams, and then cover the whole with a good paste, and -bake it in an iron oven, or boil it in an iron pot. - -Chowder of fresh codfish, halibut, sea-bass, or any other good fish, is -made as above. Halibut requires a much larger portion of seasoning, and -a little more pork. Though very large and therefore very profitable, it -is in itself the most tasteless of all fish. Plain boiled halibut is not -worth eating. - - -SALMON.--In choosing a salmon, see that the gills are a fine red, the -eyes full, the scales clear, and the whole fish stiff; the flesh being -of the peculiar red known as salmon-color. Between the flakes is a -substance called the curd, which gives it firmness. By keeping, this -substance melts down and the flesh becomes soft. A salmon can only be -eaten in perfection on the sea-coast where it was caught, and on the -same day. To transport it any distance, it must be enclosed in a box, -and well packed in ice. In America, salmon is found in the greatest -perfection on the coast of Maine, in the Kennebec. Very fine ones are -brought to Boston market. They also abound on the coasts of California -and Oregon. The American salmon is much larger than those of Europe. It -is so fine a fish that its own flavor is better than any that can be -communicated except by the most simple sauce. It requires as much -boiling as meat, that is, a quarter of an hour for every pound. It is in -season from May till August or September. - -The lake salmon is good, but inferior to that of the ocean, in size, -richness, and color. - -In boiling a large fish, to judge if it is done, draw up the strainer or -fish-plate, and with a thin knife try if the flesh separates easily from -the bone. If you can loosen it immediately, it is cooked enough. It -injures a fish to let it get cool in the water. - - -BOILED SALMON.--After carefully emptying the salmon, wash it very clean -from the blood inside, and remove the scales. To preserve the fine color -of the salmon, or to set the curd or creamy substance between the -flakes, it should be put into boiling water, allowing to a gallon of -water a handful of salt. After the water has been boiling a few minutes, -and has been skimmed, put in the fish, (laying it on the drainer,) and -let it boil moderately fast, skimming it well. It must be thoroughly -boiled. Underdone fish of every kind is disgusting and unwholesome. -Before it is taken from the fish kettle ascertain if it is sufficiently -cooked, by trying if the back-bone easily loosens from the flesh. A -quarter of an hour may be allowed for each pound, for a large thick -salmon requires as much cooking as meat. When you take it up, drain it -well, and serve it up immediately. Have ready some lobster sauce, or -shrimp, if more convenient. To make it, mince the meat of a boiled -lobster, mashing the coral with it, and mix it with melted or drawn -butter, made very thick, and having but a very small portion of water. -For shrimp sauce, boil the shrimps, take off their heads, and squeeze -out their bodies from the shells. Thicken with them the drawn butter. -Nothing should go with salmon that will interfere with the flavor of -this fine fish, or give it any taste that will overpower or weaken its -own. - -Many prefer salmon with nothing more than cold butter spread on after it -is helped. We think, ourselves, that when the butter is very good, it is -not improved (for salmon) by the addition of flour and water; and a very -little is sufficient. You need use nothing from the castors except -cayenne. - -It is usual to eat cucumbers with salmon, and no other vegetables; the -cucumbers to be pared, sliced, laid in cold water, and dressed, and -served up by themselves, with a little plate for each person, that the -vinegar, &c., of the cucumbers may not impart too much acid to the -salmon. - -In places remote from the sea, a whole salmon is seldom seen at table -but at dinner parties, or at good hotels. In a very hot climate it -should not be seen at all. When in season, it can be bought in any -quantity by the pound, for a small family. For a small dinner company, -from four to six pounds will suffice. - -Cook salmon-trout in the same manner. Large fish should be helped with a -silver fish trowel. - - -ROASTED SALMON.--Take a large piece of fine fresh salmon, cut from the -middle of the fish, well cleaned and carefully scaled. Wipe it dry in a -clean coarse cloth. Then dredge it with flour, put it on the spit, and -place it before a clear bright fire. Baste it with fresh butter, and -roast it well; seeing that it is thoroughly done to the bone. Serve it -up plain; garnishing the dish with slices of lemon, as many persons like -a little lemon-juice with salmon. This mode of cooking salmon will be -found excellent. A small one, or a salmon-trout, may be roasted whole. - - -BAKED SALMON.--A small salmon may be baked whole. Stuff it with -forcemeat made of bread-crumbs; chopped oysters, or minced lobster; -butter, cayenne, a little salt, and powdered mace,--all mixed well, and -moistened with beaten yolk of egg. Bend the salmon round, and put the -tail into the mouth, fastening it with a skewer. Put it into a large -deep dish; lay bits of butter on it at small intervals; and set it into -the oven. While baking, look at it occasionally, and baste it with the -butter. When one side is well browned, turn it carefully in the dish, -and add more butter. Bake it till the other side is well browned. Then -transfer it to another dish with the gravy that is about it, and send it -to table. - -If you bake salmon in slices, reserve the forcemeat for the outside. Dip -each slice first in beaten yolk of egg, and then in the forcemeat, till -it is well coated. - - -BROILED SALMON.--Wash carefully all traces of blood from the inside of -the fish. Cut it into rather thick slices, or fillets. Dry them in a -clean cloth, and dredge them with flour. Chalk the bars of the gridiron, -or grease them with lard or suet, or the dripping of beef or veal, to -prevent the fish from sticking. Let the fire be a bed of clear bright -hot coals. Broil the slices well on both sides; and when done, transfer -them to a hot dish, and lay a bit of fresh butter on each, and season -them a little with cayenne. - -Fresh codfish may be cut into steaks, and broiled as above. - -Also halibut, or any other large fish. - -Serve up shrimp or lobster sauce, with all cutlets or steaks of large -fish. - - -FRIED SALMON CUTLETS.--Having washed, dried and floured the cutlets, put -near a pound of fresh lard into a frying pan, set it over a clear brisk -fire till it boils fast. Have ready a marinade or dressing made of -grated bread-crumbs, chopped sweet-marjoram, beaten yolks of eggs, and -powdered mace--all well mixed. Dip each cutlet into this marinade twice -over, and fry them. There must be plenty of lard, so that the cutlets -may float on its surface instead of sinking to the bottom, and becoming -dark, heavy, and greasy. When they are done, take them up with a -perforated skimmer, draining off the lard as you do so. Lay them on a -hot dish, and keep them hot till wanted. Serve up with them mashed -potatos made into flat cakes, and browned with a salamander or red hot -shovel. - -Fresh codfish cutlets may be fried in this manner. - -You may broil halibut as above. Halibut is too insipid for boiling. - - -PICKLED SALMON.--Clean a fine fresh salmon, and remove the bones. Cut -off the head, fins, and tail. Fish, to be pickled, should (instead of -washing) be wiped, and rubbed with a clean dry cloth. Cut it into steaks -or cutlets. Put it into a stone-ware jar with a close cover. A broad low -jar will be best. Sprinkle it with salt, and cayenne. Add some grains of -whole black pepper, and some blades of mace, seasoning it highly to make -it keep well. Fill up the jar with the best cider vinegar, set it in a -moderate oven, and bake it till thoroughly done; adding more vinegar, if -it seems too dry. Then cover the jar very closely, with the lid--if -there is the smallest crack, paste all round a fillet of strong, white -paper. Whenever you open the jar to take out some of the salmon for use, -add some fresh vinegar. Keep the jar in a dry cool place. If properly -done, and well seasoned, it will keep several months. - - -BROILED FRESH MACKEREL.--Mackerel cannot be eaten too fresh, as no fish -spoils so soon; for which reason in England mackerel is permitted to be -sold on Sundays. We have heard in London the fishwomen crying it about -the streets on Sunday morning before church time. And even then it is -far inferior to mackerel taken immediately out of the sea, at the places -on the coast. It is generally broiled, as no other cooking seems to suit -it, and draw forth its true flavor. Split your mackerel, remove the -bone, and cut off the heads and tails. Dredge them on both sides with -flour, and sprinkle the inside with black pepper and a little salt. Have -your gridiron very hot, over a clear fire, and grease the bars with -lard, or chalk them to prevent the fish from sticking. Broil them well -on both sides, and when they are done, and very hot, lay some bits of -fresh butter upon them. Cover to keep them warm, and send them to table -as soon as possible. They are a fine breakfast fish, and good at a plain -dinner. For sauce, cold butter is all that is necessary, but you may mix -with it, chopped parsley, or minced fennel. At the best English tables, -stewed _gooseberries_, pulped through a sieve and sweetened, is the -fashionable sauce for broiled mackerel, or lemon-juice is squeezed -profusely over the fish. To this the lovers of fruit with every thing, -will not object. - -If a mackerel is fresh, the eyes will be full and lively, the gills very -red, and the stripes or bars on the back a very dark color, (nearly -black,) and strongly marked; and the body thick. If thin and flat below -the shoulders, the eyes sunk, the gills pale, and the dark stripes dull -and indistinct, the fish is unfit to eat. - - -FRIED MACKEREL.--For frying, take small mackerel, as fresh as possible. -Wash them, dry them in a clean cloth, and score them deeply in the back, -making several deep cuts. Season them with a little salt and pepper. Go -over them with beaten egg, and then cover them thickly with grated -bread-crumbs; which, for this purpose, are superior to indian meal or -pounded crackers. Fry them in boiling lard, and dish them hot. Send them -to table with a dish of potatos sliced and fried in butter. - -Any fish may be fried in this manner. If large, cut it into pieces. - - -FRIED HALIBUT.--There is a great deal of eating in a halibut, as it is a -fish of immense size, and has only the back bone. It is sold in pieces -of any weight or quantity, and is exceedingly white and delicate in -appearance. But it is so very insipid, that when _boiled_ it has no -taste at all. Therefore it is always broiled or fried, except at tables -where economy is the chief consideration. If broiled, it is done in the -same manner as any other large fish, but to make it palatable requires -something to give it a little taste. - -To fry halibut--take a piece from the middle of the fish, wash it very -carefully, and dry it in a clean cloth. Then cut it into thick fillets, -extracting the bone, which is easily done with a sharp knife, loosening -the flesh from the bone, and raising it as you proceed. Remove the skin. -You may also cut the fillets into slices about an inch thick. Season -with cayenne, and a very little salt. Cover them slightly with nice -butter. Have ready in one pan plenty of grated bread-crumbs; in another -a sufficiency of beaten yolk of egg, seasoned with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Dip the slices first into the egg, then into the pan of -bread-crumbs. Do this twice over, to every slice. Have ready over the -fire a hot frying pan full of _boiling_ lard. Put in the slices and fry -them well. When one side is done, turn the other. When all are done, -take them from the frying pan with a perforated skimmer, and drain them. -Keep them hot between two heated dishes. - -Cooked in this manner, the halibut will be sufficiently flavored and is -a profitable fish. - -Instead of frying, the halibut steaks may be broiled over a clear fire, -on a grooved gridiron. Having first buttered it, dip each steak, as -above, in bread-crumbs and egg, and lay upon each steak a large tomato -opened, and stuffed with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs seasoned with -butter, pepper, and mace. This will be found a very nice way of cooking -halibut. Fresh cod may be done in the same manner. - -Cold halibut is sometimes drest as salad for the tea-table. - - -BOILED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S-HEAD FISH.--Having cleaned and washed the fish, -soak it an hour or two in salt and water to draw off the slime. Then let -it lie half an hour or more in cold water. Afterwards drain, and wipe it -dry. Score the back deeply with a knife. The whiteness of the fish will -be improved by rubbing it over with a cut lemon. The fish kettle must be -large, and nicely clean. Lay the fish with its back downward, on the -strainer of the kettle. Cover it well with cold water, (milk and water -in equal portions will be better still,) and add a small spoonful of -salt. Do not let it come to a boil too fast, and skim it carefully. When -the scum has ceased to rise, diminish the heat under the kettle, and let -it simmer for about half an hour or more; not allowing it to boil hard. -When the fish is done, take it up carefully with a fish-slice; and -having prepared the sauce, pour it over the fish and send it to table -hot. - -For the sauce, mix together very smoothly, with a broad-bladed knife, a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and two table-spoonfuls of flour. -Put them into a clean sauce-pan, and hold it over the fire, and stir -them till melted. Then add a large salt-spoonful of powdered mace, and -as much cayenne as will lie on a sixpence. It will be much improved by -the addition of some boiled lobster, chopped small. When the sauce has -simmered five minutes, add very gradually half a pint of rich cream, and -let it come almost to a boil, stirring all the time. After the fish is -taken up, pour the sauce over it hot. Or you may send it to table in a -sauce-boat. In this case ornament the fish with the coral of the lobster -put on in a handsome figure. - -Another way of dressing this fish is, after it has been boiled, to set -it on ice to get cold; and then, having carefully removed the bones, cut -the flesh into small squares, put it into a stew-pan, and having mixed -the above sauce, add it to the fish, and let it stew slowly in the -sauce; but do not let it come to a boil. When thoroughly hot, take it -up, and send it to table in a deep dish. - - -BAKED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S-HEAD FISH.--Having cleaned the fish, soak it an -hour or two in salt and water, and afterwards wash it well through two -or three fresh waters. Then dry it in a clean towel. Score it deeply -across the back; and then lay it in a deep white baking-dish. Mix -together a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg; add a -salt-spoon of cayenne; a few sprigs of sweet marjoram and sweet basil, -finely minced; two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter; and two -table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs. Stir this mixture into a pint of -rich cream. Pour this marinade over the fish, cover it, and let it stand -half an hour. Then bake it in the marinade; and send it hot to table. - -If the fish is too large to be baked whole, cut it into fillets, -extracting the bone. - -Salmon-trout may be baked in this manner. - - -SEA BASS WITH TOMATOS.--Take three large fine sea-bass, or black-fish. -Cut off their heads and tails, and fry the fish in plenty of lard till -about half done. Have ready a pint of tomatos, that have been pickled -cold in vinegar flavored with a muslin bag of mixed spices. Drain the -tomatos well from the vinegar; skin them, and mash them in a pan; -dredging them with about as much flour as would fill a large table-spoon -heaped up. Pour the mixture over the fish while in the frying pan; and -continue frying till they are thoroughly done. - -Cutlets of halibut may be fried in this manner with tomatos: also, any -other pan-fish. - -Beef-steaks or lamb-chops are excellent fried thus with tomatos. - - -BAKED SALMON-TROUT.--Having cleaned the fish, and laid it two hours in -weak salt and water, dry it in a cloth, and then rub both the inside and -outside with a seasoning of cayenne pepper, powdered mace, nutmeg, and -a little salt, mixed well together. Then lay it in a deep baking-pan, -turn the tail round into the mouth, and stick bits of fresh butter -thickly over the fish. Put it into an oven, and bake it well; basting it -frequently with the liquid that will soon surround it. When you suppose -it to be nearly done, try it by sticking down to the backbone a -thin-bladed knife. When you find that the flesh separates immediately -from the bone, it is done sufficiently. Serve it up with lobster-sauce. - -Any large fresh fish may be baked in this way. - - -CREAM TROUT.--Having prepared the trout very nicely, and cut off the -heads and tails, put the fish into boiling water that has been slightly -salted, and simmer them for five minutes. Then take them out, and lay -them to drain. Put them into a stew-pan, and season them well with -powdered mace, nutmeg, and a little cayenne, all mixed together. Put in -as much rich cream as will cover the fish, adding the fresh yellow rind -of a small lemon, grated. Keep the pan covered, and let the fish stew -for about ten minutes after it has begun to simmer. Then dish the fish, -and keep them hot till you have finished the sauce. Mix, very smoothly, -a small table-spoonful of arrow-root, the juice of the lemon, and two -table-spoonfuls of sugar, and stir it into the cream. Pour the sauce -over the fish, and then send them to table. - -Turbot or sheep's-head fish may be dressed as above; of course it will -require a larger proportion of seasoning, &c., and longer time to cook. - -Carp is very nice stewed in this manner. - - -STEWED CODFISH.--Take fine _fresh_ cod, and cut it into slices an inch -thick, separated from the bones. Lay the pieces of fish in the bottom of -a stew-pan: season them with grated nutmeg; half a dozen blades of mace; -a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper; and a small saucer full of chopped -celery; or a bunch of sweet herbs tied together. Add a pint of oyster -liquor, and the juice of a lemon. Cover it close, and let it stew gently -till the fish is almost done, shaking the pan frequently. Then take a -piece of fresh butter the size of an egg; roll it in flour, and add it -to the stew. Also, put in two dozen large fine oysters, with what liquor -there is about them. Cover it again; quicken the fire a little, and let -the whole continue to stew five minutes longer. Before you send it to -table, remove the bunch of sweet herbs. - -Rock-fish may be stewed in this manner. Fresh salmon also. - - -FRIED CODFISH.--Take the middle or tail part of a fresh codfish, and cut -it into slices not quite an inch thick, first removing the skin. Season -them with a little salt and cayenne pepper. Have ready in one dish some -beaten yolk of egg, and in another some grated bread-crumbs. Dip each -slice of fish twice into the egg, and then twice into the crumbs. Fry -them in fresh butter, and serve them up with the gravy about them. - -Halibut may be fried as above. - - -STEWED HALIBUT.--Cut the fish into pieces about four inches square, of -course omitting the bone. Season it very slightly with salt, and let it -rest for half an hour. Then take it out of the salt, put it into a large -deep dish, and strew over it a mixture of cayenne pepper, ground white -ginger, and grated nutmeg. Lay among it some small bits of fresh butter -rolled in grated bread. Add half a pint of vinegar, (tarragon vinegar if -you have it.) Place the dish in a slow oven, and let the halibut cook -till thoroughly done, basting it very _frequently_ with the liquid. When -nearly done, add a large table-spoonful or more of capers, or pickled -nasturtions. - -Halibut is a very insipid fish; but this mode of cooking will give it -taste. - - -STEWED ROCK-FISH.--Take a large rock-fish, and cut it in slices near an -inch thick. Sprinkle it _very slightly_ with salt, and let it remain for -half an hour. Slice very thin half a dozen large onions. Put them into a -stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut into bits. Set -them over a slow fire, and stir them continually till they are quite -soft, taking care not to let them become brown. Then put in the sliced -fish in layers; seasoning each layer with a mixture of white ground -ginger, cayenne pepper, and grated nutmeg; add some chopped parsley, and -some bits of butter rolled in flour. Pour in a pint of water, and, if -you choose, a wine-glass of vinegar, (tarragon vinegar will be best.[B]) -Set it over a good fire and let it cook about an hour. When done, take -out the fish carefully, to avoid breaking the slices. Lay it in a deep -dish that has been made hot, and cover it immediately. Have ready the -beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir them into the gravy. Give it one boil up; -and then either pour it over the fish, or serve it up in a sauce-boat. - - [B] To make this vinegar--half fill a bottle with tarragon leaves, and - fill it quite up with the best cider vinegar. Cork it tightly, and do - not remove the tarragon, but let it remain always at the bottom. The - flavor is very fine. - -Halibut, fresh cod, or any other large fish may be stewed in this -manner. - - -TO KEEP A SHAD FRESH.--By the following process, (which we can highly -recommend from experience,) a shad may be kept twenty-four hours, or -indeed longer, so as to be perfectly fresh in taste and appearance. For -instance, if brought _fresh_ from market on Saturday morning, it may be -broiled for breakfast on Sunday, and will seem like a fresh shad just -from the water. Immediately on bringing it in, let it be scaled, -cleaned, washed, split, and wiped dry; cutting off the head and tail. -Spread the shad open on a large flat dish. Mix well together in a cup, a -heaped table-spoonful of brown sugar; a heaped tea-spoonful of cayenne -pepper, and a tea-spoonful of fine salt; and then rub the mixture, -thoroughly and evenly, all over the inside of the fish; which, of -course, must be spread with the skin or outside downward. Cover it -closely with a large tin cover or with another dish, and set it -immediately on ice or in a very cold place, and let it rest till next -morning, or till it is wanted for cooking. Immediately before you put it -on the gridiron, take a clean towel and carefully wipe off the _whole of -the seasoning_, not letting a particle of it remain round the edges, or -anywhere else. Then put the shad on a previously heated gridiron, over -hot coals, and broil it well. Butter it, and send it hot to table, where -every one can season it again, according to their taste. - - -PLANKED SHAD.--This is the best way of cooking shad when in perfection, -just out of the river; and it is much in use at fishing party dinners. A -board or plank, about three inches thick and two feet square, must be -provided for the purpose. This plank should be of well-seasoned oak or -hickory, and very clean. A pine board will very soon catch fire and -burn; besides communicating to the fish a taste of turpentine or rosin. -Take a very fine shad, and (having cut off the head and tail,) split it -down the back, clean it, wash it well, and wipe it dry. Sprinkle it -with salt, and cayenne. Stand up the board before the fire till it -becomes very hot, and almost begins to char. Then nail to the hot board -the spread-open shad, with the back or skin-side next to the plank, -securing it with a few nails, not driven in so hard that they cannot -easily be drawn out. Begin to roast it with the head downward. After a -while turn the other end of the plank, so as to place the tail downward. -Turn it frequently up or down, that the juices of the fish may be -equally dispersed throughout. When done, butter it with fresh butter, -and send it to table on the board; under which, place a large dish or -tray. Help it to the company off the plank. This mode of cooking a shad -will be found superior to all others; and is so generally liked, that -two at least will be required, one at each end of the table. It is much -enjoyed by parties who have dinners on the banks of the river, and -bespeak of the fishermen shad just out of the water. - -Lake salmon may be cooked in this manner on a plank. Also, blue fish, -and the lake white fish. - -At the principal household stores, shad-boards of oak are now to be -purchased ready made. The cost is from a dollar to seventy-five cents. -They are very strong and smooth, and furnished with thick wires crossing -the board diagonally. Behind these the fish is to slip in without -nailing. They are much used, and we advise every house-keeper to get -one. We see very nice ones at Carryl's Furnishing Store, Chestnut -street, Philadelphia. - - - - -SHELL FISH. - - -TO CHOOSE OYSTERS.--Insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes -firmly on the knife, the oysters are fresh. If it shuts slowly and -faintly, or not at all, they are dying, or dead. When the shells of raw -oysters are found gaping open they are fit for nothing but to throw -away, and should not have been seen in the market, as they are quite -dead and decomposition has commenced. Clams the same. - - -TO FEED OYSTERS.--When it is necessary to keep oysters a day or two -before they are cooked, they must be kept clean and fed, otherwise they -will die and spoil. Put them into a large tub of clean water; wash from -them the mud and sand, and scrub them with a birch broom. Then pour off -_that_ water, and give them a clean tubful, placing the oysters with the -deep or large side downward, and sprinkling them well, with salt mixed -with it, allowing about a pint of salt to every two gallons of water. -But if you have a very large quantity of oysters, add to the salt and -water several handfuls of indian meal. Repeat this every twelve hours, -with fresh water and meal. Always at the time of high water, oysters may -be seen to open their shells, as if in expectation of their accustomed -food. If this is carefully continued, they will remain plump and -healthy for two days. - -Terrapins also, and other shell fish, should have the salt and water -changed every twelve hours, and be fed with corn meal. - -Turtle must also be well fed, and allowed salted water to swim in. - - -STEWED OYSTERS.--Get two hundred or more fine large fresh oysters. Drain -them from their liquor, (saving it in a pitcher,) and put them into a -stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and set them over -the fire. When they have simmered, and have almost come to a boil, -remove them from the fire; and have ready a pan of very cold water. Take -out the oysters, (one at a time, on a fork,) and put them into the cold -water. This will plump them, and render them firm. Having saved about -half their liquor, put it into the stew-pan, seasoned well with blades -of mace, grated nutmeg, whole pepper-corns, and a little cayenne. Stir -in half a pint or more of thick rich cream; and if you cannot procure -cream, an equal quantity of nice fresh butter divided into bits, -slightly dredged with a very little flour. Boil the liquor by itself, -and when it comes to a boil, take the oysters out of the cold water, and -put them into the boiling liquor. In five minutes remove the pan from -the fire, (the oysters having simmered,) and transfer them to a tureen -or deep dish, in the bottom of which has been laid a buttered toast, -that has previously been dipped a minute in hot water or milk. - - -FRENCH STEWED OYSTERS.--Wash fifty fine large oysters in their own -liquor, then strain it into a stew-pan, putting the oysters in a pan of -cold water. Season the liquor with a large glass or half a pint of white -wine, (sherry or Madeira,) the juice of two lemons, six or seven blades -of mace, and a small grated nutmeg. Boil the seasoned liquor; and skim, -and stir it well. When it comes to a boil, put in the oysters. Give them -one good stir, and then immediately take them from the fire, transfer -them to a deep dish, and send them to table. They are not to boil. - -Many persons consider this the finest way of cooking oysters for -company. Try it. The oysters must be of the very best. - - -FRIED OYSTERS.--For frying, take only the largest and finest oysters. -They should be as fresh as you can get them. Salt oysters are not good -for frying. Take them out of their liquor, carefully, with a fork, -picking off whatever bits of shell may be about them. Dry them in a -clean napkin. Prepare some grated bread-crumbs, or pounded cracker, or -soda biscuit, seasoned with cayenne pepper. Have ready plenty of yolk of -egg beaten till very light; and to each egg allow a large tea-spoonful -of rich cream, or of the best fresh butter. Beat the egg and cream -together. Dip each oyster first into the egg, &c., and then into the -crumbs. Repeat this twice till the oysters are well-coated all over. -Have ready boiling, in a frying-pan, an equal mixture of fresh butter -and lard. It must come nearly to the edge or top of the frying-pan, and -be boiling fast when the oysters go in; otherwise they will be heavy and -greasy, and sink to the bottom. Fry them of a yellow brown on both -sides. Send them to table very hot. - -Oysters will be found much the best when fried in grated bread-crumbs. -Cracker-crumbs form a hard, tough coating that is very indigestible, and -also impairs the flavor. Use no salt in making the batter. Omit it -entirely. It overpowers the taste of the oysters. - - -OYSTER FRITTERS.--Allow to each egg a heaped table-spoonful of flour, -and a jill or small tea-cupful of milk. Beat the eggs till very light -and thick; then stir them, gradually, into the pan of milk, in turn with -the flour, a little at a time. Beat the whole very hard. Have ready the -oysters, that you may proceed immediately to baking the fritters. The -oysters should be fresh, and of the largest size. Having drained them -from their liquor, and dried them separately in a cloth, and dredged -them with flour, set over the fire a frying-pan nearly full of lard. -When it boils fast, put in a large spoonful of the batter. Then lay an -oyster upon it, and cover the oyster with another spoonful of batter. -Fry the fritters of a nice yellow. As they are done, take them up, drain -off the lard from the oysters, and keep them hot till they go to table. -This will be found a very fine receipt if _exactly_ followed. - - -CLAM FRITTERS.--Put a sufficient quantity of clams into a pot of boiling -water. The small sand-clam will be best. When the shells open wide, take -them out, extract the clams from the shells, and put them into a -stew-pan. Strain their liquor, and pour about half of it over the clams; -adding a little black pepper. They will require no salt. Let them stew, -slowly, for half an hour; then take them out; drain off all the liquor; -and mince the clams as fine as possible, omitting the hardest parts. You -should have as many clams as will make a large pint when minced. Make a -batter of seven eggs, beaten till very thick and light, and then mixed -gradually with a quart of milk, and a pint of sifted flour, stirred in -by degrees, and made perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Then, -gradually, mix the minced clams with the batter, and stir the whole very -hard. Have ready in a frying-pan over the fire, a sufficiency of boiling -lard. Put in, with a spoon, the batter so as to form fritters, and fry -them light brown. Drain them well when done and serve them up hot. - -Oyster fritters may be made as above: except that the oysters must be -minced raw, and mixed into the batter without having been stewed. - -_Soft-crab Fritters._--Use only the bodies of the crabs, and proceed as -above. - - -SCOLLOPED CLAMS.--Having boiled a quantity of small sand-clams till they -open of themselves, remove them from the shells. Drain away the liquor, -and chop them small, omitting the hardest parts. Season them with black -pepper and powdered mace, and mix them with grated bread-crumbs and -fresh butter. Get some large clean clam-shells, and fill them to the -edge with the above mixture, moistened with _a very little_ of the -liquor. Cover the surface with grated crumbs, and add to each one a -small bit of butter. Set them in an oven, and bake them light brown. -Send them to table in the shells they were baked in, arranged on large -dishes. They are eaten at breakfast and supper. Clams must always have -the shells washed before they are boiled. - -Oysters are frequently scolloped in this manner, minced, and served up -in large _clam_ shells. - -Boiled crabs, also, are cooked, minced, and prepared in this way, and -sent to table in the back-shell of the crab. - -All these scollops are improved by mixing among them some hard-boiled -eggs, minced or chopped; or some raw egg beaten. - - -ROASTED OYSTERS.--The old-fashioned way of roasting oysters is to lay -them on a hot hearth, and cover them in hot cinders or ashes, (taking -them out with tongs when done,) or to put them into a moderate fire. -When done, their shells will begin to open. The usual way now is to -broil them on large gridirons of strong wire. Serve them up in their -shells on large dishes, or on trays, at oyster suppers. At every plate -lay an oyster knife and a clean coarse towel, and between every two -chairs set a bucket to receive the empty shells. The gentlemen generally -save the ladies the trouble of opening the oysters, by performing that -office for them. - -Have on the table, to eat with the oysters, bread-rolls, biscuits, -butter, and glasses with sticks of celery scraped, and divested of the -green leaves at the top. Have also ale or porter. - -Or, you may take large oysters out of their shells, dredge them lightly -with flour, lay them separately on a wire gridiron, and broil them. -Serve them up on large dishes, with a morsel of fresh butter laid on -each oyster. - - -SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.--Drain the liquor from a sufficient quantity of fine -fresh oysters; and season them with blades of mace, grated nutmeg, and a -little cayenne. Lay about a dozen of them in the bottom of a deep dish. -Cut some slices of wheat bread, and put them to soak in a pan of the -oyster liquor (previously strained.) - -Soak the bread till it is soft throughout, but not dissolved. Cover the -oysters in the bottom of the dish, with some slices of the soaked bread, -(drained from the liquor,) and lay upon the bread a few small bits of -nice fresh butter. Then put in another layer of seasoned oysters; then -another layer of soaked bread with bits of butter dispersed upon it. -Repeat this with more layers of oysters, soaked bread, and bits of -butter, till the dish is full, finishing with a close layer of bread on -the top. Set this into a hot oven, and bake it, a short time only, or -till it is well browned on the surface. Oysters require but little -cooking, and this bread has had one baking already. The liquid that is -about the bread is sufficient. It requires no more. - -Scolloped oysters may be cooked in large, clean, clam-shells and served -up on great dishes. - - -PICKLED OYSTERS.--Take a hundred fine large oysters--set them over the -fire in their own liquor--add two ounces of nice fresh butter, and -simmer them slowly for ten minutes; skimming them well. If they boil -fast and long, they will become hard and shrivelled. Take them off the -fire and strain from them their liquor; spread the oysters out on large -dishes, and place them in the air to cool fast, or lay them in a broad -pan of cold water. This renders them firm. Strain the liquor, and then -mix with it an equal quantity of the best and purest clear -cider-vinegar. Season (if the oysters are fresh,) with a small -tea-spoonful of salt, two dozen whole pepper-corns, and a -table-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg, mixed. Let the liquor boil -till it is reduced to little more than enough to cover the oysters well. -Put the oysters into a tureen, or a broad stone jar. Pour the hot liquor -over them, and let them grow quite cold before they are eaten. You may -give them a fine tinge of pale pink color by adding to the liquor (while -boiling,) a little prepared cochineal. - - -PICKLED OYSTERS.--_For keeping._--Have five or six hundred oysters of -the finest sort and largest size. Proceed as in the foregoing receipt, -but increase, proportionately, the quantity of spice and vinegar. Put -them in stone-ware jars, securing the covers by pasting all round, bands -or strips of thick white paper; and place on each jar, on the top of the -liquor, a table-spoonful of salad oil. - -Use no other than _genuine cider-vinegar_. Much that is sold for the -best white-wine vinegar is in reality a deleterious compound of -pernicious drugs, that will eat up or dissolve the oysters entirely, -leaving nothing but a sickening whitish fluid. This vinegar is at first -so overpoweringly sharp and pungent, as to destroy, entirely, the taste -of the spices; and, while cooking, emits a disagreeable smell. The -oysters immediately become ragged, and in less than an hour are entirely -destroyed. This vinegar acts in the same manner on all other pickles, -and the use of it should always be shunned. - -_Drugs_ should not be employed in any sort of cookery, though their -introduction is now most lamentably frequent. They ruin the flavor and -are injurious to health. - - -OYSTER PATTIES.--Make sufficient puff-paste for at least a dozen small -patties. Roll it out thick, and line with it twelve small tin -patty-pans. Bake them brown in a brisk oven; and when done set them to -cool. Have ready two or three dozen large, fine, fresh oysters. Wash and -drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with no other liquid than just -enough of their own liquor to keep them from burning. Season them with -cayenne, nutmeg, and mace, and a few of the green tops or leaves of -celery sprigs minced small. Add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -divided into bits, and laid among the oysters. To enrich the gravy, stir -in, at the last, the beaten yolks of three or four eggs, or some thick -cream or butter. Let the oysters stew in this gravy about five minutes. -When the patties are beginning to cool, fill each with one or two large -oysters. If you choose, you can bake for every patty a small round lid -of pastry, to be laid lightly on the top, so as to cover the oysters -when they go to table. For company, make a large quantity of oyster -patties, as they are much liked. - - -OYSTER LOAVES.--Take some tall fresh rolls, or small loaves. Cut nicely -a round or oval hole in the top of each, saving the pieces that come -off. Then carefully scoop out most of the crumb from the inside, leaving -the crust standing. Have ready a sufficient quantity of large fresh -oysters. Put the oysters with one-fourth of their liquor into a -stew-pan; adding the bread-crumbs, a large piece of fresh butter, some -powdered nutmeg, and mace. Stew them about ten minutes. Then stir in two -or three large table-spoonfuls of cream; take them off just as they are -coming to a boil. If cooked too long the oysters will become tough and -shriveled, and the cream will curdle. Fill the inside of your scooped -loaves with the oysters, reserving as many large oysters as you have -loaves. Place the bit of upper-crust carefully on the top of each, so as -to cover the whole. Arrange them on a dish, and lay on each lid one of -the large oysters kept out for the purpose. These ornamental oysters -must be well drained from any liquid that is about them. - - -OYSTER OMELET.--Having strained the liquor from twenty-five oysters of -the largest size, mince them small; omitting the hard part or gristle. -If you cannot get large oysters, you should have forty or fifty small -ones. Break into a shallow pan six, seven, or eight eggs, according to -the quantity of minced oysters. Omit half the whites, and, (having -beaten the eggs till very light, thick, and smooth,) mix the oysters -gradually into them, adding a little cayenne pepper, and some powdered -nutmeg. Put three ounces or more of the best fresh butter into a small -frying-pan, if you have no pan especially for omelets. Place it over a -clear fire, and when the butter, (which should be previously cut up,) -has come to a boil, put in the omelet-mixture; stir it till it begins to -set; and fry it light brown, lifting the edge several times by slipping -a knife under it, and taking care not to cook it too much or it will -shrivel and become tough. When done, clap a large hot plate or dish on -the top of the omelet, and turn it quickly and carefully out of the pan. -Serve it up immediately. It is a fine breakfast dish. This quantity will -make one large or two small omelets. - -Clam omelets may be made as above. - -An omelet pan should be smaller than a common frying-pan, and lined with -tin. In a large pan the omelet will spread too much, and become thin -like a pancake. - -Never turn an omelet while frying, as that will make it heavy and tough. -When done, brown it by holding a red-hot shovel or salamander close -above the top. - -Excellent omelets may be made of cold boiled ham, or smoked tongue; -grated or minced small, mixed with a sufficiency of beaten eggs, and -fried in butter. - - -BROILED OYSTERS.--Take the largest and finest oysters. See that your -gridiron is very clean. Rub the bars with fresh butter, and set it over -a clear steady fire, entirely free from smoke; or on a bed of bright hot -wood coals. Place the oysters on the gridiron, and when done on one -side, take a fork and turn them on the other; being careful not to let -them burn. Put some fresh butter in the bottom of a dish. Lay the -oysters on it, and season them with pepper and grated nutmeg. Send them -to table hot. - - -OYSTER PIE.--Having buttered the inside of a deep dish, line it with -puff-paste rolled out rather thick; and prepare another sheet of paste -for the lid. Pat a clean towel into the dish (folded so as to support -the lid) and then put on the lid; set it into the oven, and bake the -paste well. When done, remove the lid, and take out the folded towel. -While the paste is baking, prepare the oysters. Having picked off -carefully any bits of shell that may be found about them, lay them in a -sieve and drain off the liquor into a pan. Put the oysters into a -skillet or stew-pan, with barely enough of the liquor to keep them from -burning. Season them with whole pepper, blades of mace, some grated -nutmeg, and some grated lemon-peel, (the yellow rind only,) and a little -finely minced celery. Then add a large portion of fresh butter, divided -into bits, and very slightly dredged with flour. Let the oysters simmer -over the fire, but do not allow them to come to a boil, as that will -shrivel them. Next beat the yolks only, of three, four, or five eggs, -(in proportion to the size of the pie,) and stir the beaten egg into -the stew a few minutes before you take it from the fire. Keep it warm -till the paste is baked. Then carefully remove the lid of the pie; and -replace it, after you have filled the dish with the oysters and gravy. - -The lid of the pie may be ornamented with a wreath of leaves cut out of -paste, and put on before baking. In the centre, place a paste-knot or -flower. - -Oyster pies are generally eaten warm; but they are very good cold. - - -CLAM PIE.--Take a sufficient number of clams to fill a large pie-dish -when opened. Make a nice paste in the proportion of a pound of fresh -butter to two quarts of flour. Paste for shell fish, or meat, or chicken -pies, should be rolled out double the thickness of that intended for -fruit pies. Line the sides and bottom of your pie-dish with paste. Then -cover the bottom with a thin beef steak, divested of bone and fat. Put -in the clams, and season them with mace, nutmeg, and a few whole -pepper-corns. No salt. Add a spoonful of butter rolled in flour, and -some hard-boiled yolks of eggs crumbled fine. Then put in enough of the -clam liquor to make sufficient gravy. Put on the lid of the pie, (which, -like the bottom crust, should be rolled out thick,) notch it handsomely, -and bake it well. It should be eaten warm. - - -SOFT CRABS.--These are crabs that, having cast their old shells, have -not yet assumed the new ones. In this, the transition state, they are -considered delicacies. Put them into fast-boiling water, and boil them -for ten minutes. Then take them out, drain them, wipe them very clean, -and prepare them for frying by removing the spongy part inside and the -sand-bag. Put plenty of fresh lard into a pan; and when it boils fast, -lay in the crabs, and fry them well, seasoning them with cayenne. As -soon as they are done of a nice golden color, take them out, drain off -the lard back into the pan, and lay them on a large _hot_ dish. Cover -them to keep warm while you fry, in the same lard, all the best part of -a fresh lettuce, chopped small. Let it fry only long enough to become -hot throughout. When you serve up the crabs cover them with the fried -lettuce. Stir into the gravy some cream, or a piece of nice fresh butter -rolled in flour; and send it to table in a sauce-boat, seasoned with a -little cayenne. - -Soft crabs require no other flavoring. They make a nice breakfast-dish -for company. Only the large claws are eaten, therefore break off as -useless the small ones. - -Instead of lettuce, you may fry the crabs with parsley--removed from the -pan before it becomes brown. Pepper-grass is still better. - - -TERRAPINS.--In buying terrapins select the largest and thickest. Like -all other delicacies, the best are the cheapest in the end. Small poor -terrapins are not worth the cost of the seasoning. A poor terrapin, -poorly dressed, is indeed a poor thing, and is always recognized as -such, by those who are expected to eat it. _Get fine terrapins only._ -Put them into a pot of water that is boiling very hard at the time, and -let them boil for about ten minutes. Immediately on taking them out, -proceed to rub, with a coarse clean cloth, all the skin from the head, -neck, and claws--also, the thin shell, as it comes loose. Having washed -them in warm water, put the terrapins into a clean pot with fresh water, -and a table-spoonful of salt, and boil them again till they are -thoroughly done, and the paws are perfectly soft. Remove the toe-nails. -Some terrapins require three hours. When they are quite soft, open them -carefully, remove the spongy part, the sand-bag, the gall, and the -entrails--it being now the custom to throw away the whole of the -disgusting garbage, always tasteless, tough, and disagreeable to look -at. Be careful not to break the gall, as it will give an unpleasant -bitter taste to the whole. Cut into small pieces all the meat of the -terrapins, put them into a stew-pan, (adding the juice they have yielded -in cutting up, _but no water_,) and proceed to season them, beginning -with cayenne and black pepper, to your taste; also, a handful of flour -for the thickening. Stir all well together, and in a short time add four -table-spoonfuls of cream, or fresh butter, and a half pint of Madeira or -sherry to every four terrapins. If they have no eggs, make up some -artificially; crumbling the yolks of hard-boiled common eggs, mashed to -a paste with a little nice butter, and then made into balls with beaten -raw egg. Add plenty of these to the stew, and let the whole cook -together for a quarter of an hour longer. Serve it up hot, in a well -heated covered dish. - -Four fine large terrapins generally make one dish; and the above is the -usual quantity of seasoning for them. - - -NEW WAY OF DRESSING TERRAPINS.--In buying terrapins, select those only -that are large, fat, and thick-bodied. Put them whole into water that is -boiling hard at the time, and (adding a little salt) boil them till -thoroughly done throughout. Then, taking off the shell, extract the -meat, and remove carefully the sand-bag and gall; also, _all the -entrails_,--they are disgusting, unfit to eat, and are no longer served -up in cooking terrapin for the best tables. Cut the meat into pieces, -and put it into a stew-pan with its eggs, and sufficient fresh butter to -stew it well. Let it stew till quite hot throughout, keeping the pan -carefully covered that none of the flavor may escape; but shake it over -the fire while stewing. In another pan, make a sauce of beaten yolk of -egg, highly flavored with Madeira or sherry, and powdered nutmeg and -mace, and enriched with a large lump of fresh butter. Stir this sauce -well over the fire, and when it has _almost_ come to a boil, take it -off. Send the terrapin to table hot in a covered dish, and the sauce -_separately_ in a sauce-tureen, to be used by those who like it, and -omitted by those who prefer the genuine flavor of the terrapin when -simply stewed with butter. - -This is now the usual mode of dressing terrapins in Maryland and -Virginia, and will be found superior to any other. - -No dish of terrapins can be good unless the terrapins themselves are of -the best quality. It is mistaken economy to buy poor ones. Besides being -insipid and tasteless, it takes more in number to fill a dish. The -females are the best. - - -A TERRAPIN POT-PIE.--Take several fine large terrapins, the fattest and -thickest you can get. Put them into a large pot of water that is boiling -hard; and boil them half an hour or more. Then take them out of the -shell, pulling off the outer skin and the toe-nails. Remove the sand-bag -and the gall, taking care not to break it, or it will render the whole -too bitter to be eaten. Take out also the entrails, and throw them away; -as the custom of cooking them is now, very properly, exploded. Then cut -up all the meat of the terrapins, taking care to save all the liquid -that exudes in cutting up, and also the eggs. Season the whole with -pepper, mace, and nutmeg, adding a little salt; and lay among it pieces -of fresh butter slightly rolled in flour. - -Have ready an ample quantity of paste, made in the proportion of a pound -of butter to two large quarts (or pounds) of flour, or a pound and a -half of butter to three quarts of flour, and rolled out thick. Butter -the inside of an iron pot, and line the sides with paste, till it -reaches within one-third of the top. Then put in the pieces of terrapin, -with the eggs, butter, &c., and with all the liquid. Lay among the -terrapin, square pieces of paste. Then pour in sufficient water to stew -the whole properly. Next, cover all with a circular lid, or top-crust of -paste, but do not fit it so closely that the gravy cannot bubble up over -the edges while cooking. Cut a small cross slit in the top crust. Place -the pot, with the pie, over a good fire, and boil it till the whole is -thoroughly done, which will be in from three quarters to an hour after -it comes to a boil. Take care not to let it get too dry, but keep at -hand a kettle of boiling water to replenish the pot when necessary. To -ascertain if the pie is done, lift up with a fork a little of the paste, -at one side, and try it low down in the pot. - -It may be much improved, by mixing among the pieces of terrapins, -(before putting them into the pie,) some yolks of hard-boiled eggs, -grated or minced. They will enrich the gravy. - -A pot-pie may be made, (a very fine one too,) of some of the best pieces -of a green turtle. - - -A SEA-COAST PIE.--Having boiled a sufficient number of crabs and -lobsters, extract all the meat from the shells, and cut it into -mouthfuls. Have ready some fine large oysters drained from the liquor. -Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with puff-paste; and put in a -thick layer of crab or lobster, seasoned with a little cayenne pepper, -and a grated lemon-peel. Mix it with some hard-boiled yolk of egg, -crumbled fine, and moistened with fresh butter. Next, put a close layer -of oysters, seasoned with pounded mace and grated nutmeg. Put some bits -of butter rolled in flour on the top of the layer. Proceed in this -manner with alternate layers of crab or lobster, and of oysters, till -the dish is nearly full. Then pour in, at the last, a tea-cupful or more -of the oyster liquor, with an equal quantity of rich cream. Have ready a -thick lid of puff-paste. Put it on the pie, pressing the edges closely, -so as to unite them all round; and notch them handsomely. Make a wreath -of leaves cut out of paste, and a flower or knot for the centre; place -them on the top-crust; and bake the pie well. While it is baking, -prepare some balls made of chopped oysters; grated bread-crumbs; -powdered nutmeg, or mace; and grated lemon-peel; also, some hard-boiled -yolks of eggs, grated. Having fried these balls in butter, drain them, -and when the pie is baked, lay a circle of them round the top, between -the border of paste-leaves and the centre-knot. - -This pie will be found so fine that it ought to be baked in a dish -which will contain a large quantity. - - -TO DRESS A TURTLE.--The turtle should be taken out of water, and killed -over night in winter, and early in the morning in summer. Hang it up by -the hind fins, and before it has had time to draw in its neck, cut off -its head with a very sharp knife, and leave the turtle suspended. It -should bleed two or three hours or more, before you begin to cut it up. -Then lay it on its back upon a table: have at hand several vessels of -cold water, in which to throw the most important parts as you separate -them; also a large boiler of hot water. Take off the fins at the joint, -and lay them by themselves in cold water; next divide the back-shell -from the under-shell. The upper part of the turtle is called the -calipash--the under part the calipee. In cutting open the turtle, be -very careful not to break the gall, which should be taken out and thrown -away; if broken, its bitterness will spoil all around it. Take out the -entrails and throw them away. The practice of cooking them is now -obsolete. So it is with the entrails of terrapins. Using a sharp knife, -cut off the fins carefully, also the liver, lungs, heart, kidneys, &c. -Wash them well, and lay them in a pan of cold water, the liver in a pan -by itself. If there are eggs, put them also into cold water. Having -extracted the intestines, stand up the turtle on end, to let the blood -run out. Afterwards cut out all the flesh from the upper and under -shells, and remove the bones. Cut the calipee (or meat belonging to the -under-shell) into pieces about as large as the palm of your hand, and -break the shell. The calipash, or meat next the back-shell, may be cut -smaller--the green fat into pieces about two inches square. Put all the -meat into a large pan, sprinkle it slightly with salt, and cover it up. -Lay the shells and fins in a tub of boiling water, and scald them till -the scales can be scraped off with a knife, and all the meat that still -adheres to the shells easily removed, as it is worth saving. Clean the -fins nicely, (taking off the dark skin,) and lay them in cold water. -Wipe the back-shell dry, and set it aside. Then proceed to make the -soup. For this purpose, take the coarser pieces of flesh with the bone -likewise. Put them into a pot with a pound of cold ham cut into pieces, -and eight large calves'-feet (two sets) that have been singed and -scraped, but not skinned. If you cannot conveniently obtain -calves'-feet, substitute a large fore-leg or knuckle of veal. Add four -onions, sliced thin; two tablespoonfuls of sweet-marjoram leaves; a -large bunch of basil; a dozen blades of mace; and a salt-spoon of -cayenne. The ham will make any other salt unnecessary. Pour on as much -water as will completely cover the whole, and let it simmer slowly over -a steady fire during five hours, skimming it well. If after a while the -soup seems to be boiling away too much, replenish it with a little hot -water from a kettle, kept boiling hard for the purpose. When it has -simmered five hours, take up the whole, and strain the soup through a -sieve into a deep pan. Wash out the soup-pot with hot water, and return -the strained soup to it, with the liver, &c., cut in small pieces, and -some of the best of the meat, and a portion of the green fat. Have ready -two or three dozen force-meat balls, the size of a hickory nut, and made -of the usual proportions of minced veal, bread-crumbs, butter, grated -lemon-peel, mace, nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Put them into the -soup, and let it boil an hour longer; also the eggs of the turtle, or -some hard-boiled yolks of eggs. After it has thus boiled another hour, -add the juice and grated yellow rinds of two lemons, and a pint of -Madeira. Boil the soup a quarter of an hour longer, and it will then be -ready for the tureen. It must never boil hard. - -In the mean time, stew in another pot the finest of the turtle-meat, -seasoned with a little salt and cayenne, and a liberal allowance of -sweet-marjoram leaves rubbed fine, and mixed with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Add a pound of fresh butter, cut into pieces and rolled in -flour. When the turtle-meat has stewed an hour, put in the green fat, -and add the juice and grated yellow rinds of two lemons, and a pint or -more of Madeira, and let the whole stew slowly an hour longer. While the -meat is stewing, take the shell of the back; wash it clean, and wipe it -dry; lay a band of puff-paste all round the inside of the shell, two -inches below the edge, and two inches above it. Notch the paste -handsomely, and fill the shell with the stewed turtle. Have ready the -oven, heated as if for bread. Lay a large iron baking-sheet or a square -pan upon four bricks (one at each corner) to elevate the turtle-shell -from the floor of the oven. Place on it the shell with its contents, and -let it bake till well browned on the surface. Send it to table with the -shell placed on a large dish. At the other end set the tureen of soup. -Have ready (on two side dishes) the fins stewed tender in a little of -the soup, and the liver fried in butter. - -This receipt is for a turtle of moderate size. A large one will, of -course, require an increased proportion of all the articles used in -seasoning it--more wine, &c. In serving up turtle at a dinner-party, let -it constitute the first course, and have nothing else on the table while -the turtle is there. - -We have seen elegant silver turtle-dishes, representing the back-shell -of the animal, superbly chased and engraved, the feet for it to stand on -being paws of silver; and the fins having hollow places to hold the -sauce. This was for the stew; making a dish separate from the soup, -which is always sent to table in a tureen. - - -TURTLE PASTY.--When the meat has been all extracted, scrape and wash the -large back shell of the turtle till it is perfectly clean. Make a rich -puff-paste. Roll it out thin, and line with it the bottom and sides, in -fact the whole of the back-shell. Having prepared and seasoned the best -pieces of the turtle-meat, as in the preceding receipt, stew them till -thoroughly done, and very tender, and when cool, fill the shell with -them. Have ready an upper lid of the same puff-paste, rolled out rather -_thick_. Cover the pie with it. Unite the edges of the upper and under -crusts, very neatly, wetting your fingers with water. Then notch them -handsomely all round, and cut a cross slit in the centre of the top or -cover. Set it directly into a rather quick oven. Bake the crust of a -light brown, and send it to table hot. - - -LOBSTERS.--If you buy a lobster ready boiled, see that his tail is stiff -and elastic, so that when you bend it under, it springs back -immediately; otherwise he is not fresh. If alive or unboiled, he will be -lively and brisk in his motion when newly caught. The same with prawns, -and crabs. - -The heaviest lobsters are the best. - -To boil a lobster, have ready a pot of fast-boiling water, very strongly -salted. Put in the lobster head downward; and if the water is really hot -(it is cruel to have it otherwise,) he will be dead in a moment. Crabs, -of course, the same. A moderate sized lobster (and they are the best,) -will be done in half an hour. A large one requires from three-quarters -to an hour. Before it is sent to table, the large claws should be taken -off, and laid beside it. The head also should be separated from the -body, but laid so near it that the division is nearly imperceptible. The -head is never eaten. Split the body, and lay it open all the way down, -including the tail. If there is a good dresser of salads in the house, -the lobster may be served up ready dressed, in a deep dish, seasoned -with the proper condiments, after being cut small or minced, heaped up -towards the centre of the dish, and decorated with the small claws laid -across on the top, with the addition of green celery leaves, or parsley -sprigs. - - -LOBSTER SALAD--(_plain_.)--Take a well boiled lobster. Extract all the -meat from the body and claws, cut it up small, and mash the coral with -the back of a spoon or a broad knife. Wash the best part of a fresh -lettuce, and cut that up also, omitting all the stalk. Mix together the -chopped lobster and the lettuce, and put them into a salad bowl. Make -the dressing in a deep plate, allowing for one lobster a salt-spoon of -salt, half as much of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, (tarragon -mustard is best,) four table-spoonfuls (or more) of sweet oil, and three -table-spoonfuls of the best cider vinegar. Mix all these together, with -the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, mashed to a soft moist paste with -the other ingredients, adding the coral of the lobster. When they are -all mixed smoothly, add them to the lobster and lettuce. If the mixture -seems too dry, add more sweet oil. Toss and stir the salad with a -box-wood fork. Also, the things should be mashed with a box-wood spoon. -Cover, and set it in a cool place till wanted. It should be eaten as -soon as possible after mixing, as it becomes flat by standing. - -Plenty of sweet oil renders a lobster wholesome. Still, persons who are -not in good health, had best abstain from lobster. - -You may add to the dressing, one or two raw yolks of eggs, beaten well. - - -FINE LOBSTER SALAD--(_This is for company._)--Boil eight eggs for ten -minutes, or till quite hard. Lay them in cold water, or cool them by -laying bits of ice among them. When quite cold, cut each egg lengthways -into four or six pieces, taking a bit off one end of each piece or -slice. Cut up into long pieces the best part of a fresh lettuce, that -has just been washed in a pan of cold water. Lay the lettuce in a dish, -and surround it closely with the pieces of egg standing up on their -blunted ends, with the yolk side outward, and forming a handsome wall -all round the bed of lettuce. Upon this, pile neatly the bits of chopped -lobster, finishing with the small claws stuck into the top. Have ready -the dressing in a sauce-tureen. Make it of the beaten yolks of two raw -eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, thickened with the mashed -coral of the lobster, and the crumbled yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, -and season slightly with a little salt, cayenne, and a spoonful of -tarragon mustard. Finish with two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and stir -the whole hard with a box-wood spoon or fork. Send it to table with the -sauce-tureen, along with the dish of lobster, &c. Pour on each plate of -lobster a portion of this dressing. Or, if you can obtain no lettuce, -mix this dressing at once with the chopped meat of the lobster. Smooth -it in a pile on the dish, (keeping it towards the centre) and stand up -the slips of hard egg handsomely surrounding it--the small claws -decorating the top. - - -LOBSTER RISSOLES.--Extract all the meat from the shells of one or two -boiled lobsters. Mince it very fine; the coral also. Season it with a -little salt and cayenne, and some powdered mace and nutmeg. Add about a -fourth part of finely grated bread-crumbs; and with a sufficiency of -fresh butter or a little finely-minced veal suet, or some sweet oil, -make it up into balls or cones. Brush them over with yolk of egg, dredge -them lightly with flour, and fry them in lard. Introduce them as a side -dish at a dinner party, or as an accompaniment to salmon. - -This mixture may be baked in puff-paste as little patties, or you may -bake in a soup-plate an empty shell of paste, and when done, (having -stewed the rissole mixture made moist) fill the cold paste with it, and -serve it up as a lobster pie. - -In buying lobsters, choose those that are the heaviest and liveliest, or -quickest in their motions when touched. They are then fresh. The hen has -the broadest tail and the softest fins. - - -LOBSTER PUDDING.--Take the empty back shell of one large boiled lobster, -and all the best meat of two. Clean out the shell very nicely; washing -it, and wiping it dry. Mince the meat, and mash the coral with it; -adding half a dozen yolks of hard-boiled eggs crumbled among it, and -season it well with powdered mace and nutmeg, and a little cayenne. -Moisten it all through with plenty of sweet oil, and the raw yolks of -one or two eggs, well beaten. Fill the shell with this pudding, and -cover the surface of the mixture with a coating of finely-grated -bread-crumbs. Brown it by holding over it a salamander, or a red hot -fire-shovel. Send it to table in the shell, laid on a china dish. - -Small puddings may be made as above, of crab-meat put into several large -crab-shells, and placed side by side on a dish. - -They may be eaten either warm or cold; and they look well with green -lettuce or pepper-grass, disposed fancifully among them. - - -CRABS.--Crabs are seldom eaten except at the sea-shore, where there is a -certainty of their being fresh from the water. They are very abundant, -but so little is in them, that when better things are to be had, they -are scarcely worth the trouble of boiling and picking out the shell. -They are cooked like lobsters, in boiling salt and water, and brought to -table piled on large dishes, and are eaten with salt, pepper, sweet oil, -and vinegar. The meat of two dozen crabs, when all is extracted, will -make but a small dish. Season it with cayenne, mustard, oil, vinegar, -and eat it cold; or stew it with fresh butter, powdered mace, and -nutmeg, and serve it up hot. - -_Prawns._--The same. - - -SHRIMPS.--Of all fish belonging to the lobster species, shrimps are the -smallest. In England, where they abound, they are sold by the quart, -ready boiled. The way to eat them is to pull off the head, and squeeze -the body out of the shell by pressing it between your fore-finger and -thumb. At good tables they are only used as sauce for large fish, -squeezed out of the shell, and stirred into melted butter. - - -LOBSTER SAUCE.--Take a small hen lobster that has been well boiled. -Extract all the meat, and chop it large. Take out the coral, and pound -it smooth in a marble mortar, adding, as you proceed, sufficient sweet -oil. Make some nice drawn butter, allowing half a pound of nice fresh -butter to two heaped table-spoonfuls of flour, and a pint of hot water. -Mix the butter and flour thoroughly, and then gradually add to them the -coral, so as to give a fine color. Then mix this with a small pint of -boiling water. Hold the saucepan over the fire, (shaking it about till -it simmers) but do not let it quite boil. Put in the chopped lobster, -and let that simmer in the sauce, till well heated. To allow it to boil -will spoil the color, (which should be pale pink,) and may be improved -by a little prepared cochineal. Or, you may tie, in a small bit of thin -muslin, a few chips of alkanet, and put it into the sauce, (taking it -out, of course, before it goes to table.) Alkanet communicates a -beautiful pink color, and has no taste in itself. - -This quantity of sauce is for a large fish--salmon, cod, turbot, or -sheep's head. There should always be an ample supply of sauce. It is -very awkward for the sauce to give out, before it has gone round the -company. - - - - -BEEF. - - -ROASTING BEEF.--The prime piece of beef for roasting is the sirloin; but -being too large for a small family, the ribs are generally preferred, -when there are but few persons to eat of it. So also is the baron, or -double sirloin, undivided along the back. It is chiefly seen at great -dinners. Except the sirloin and ribs, there are no very good roasting -pieces, all the rest being generally used for stews, soups, &c., and for -corning or salting. Unless the animal is a very fine one, the inferior -pieces are apt to be tough, hard, and coarse. The round is the best -piece for corning or salting, and for cooking, as beef _a-la-mode_, or -converting into what, in England, is called rump-steaks. These steaks -require a rolling-pin, before they can be made tender enough for good -eating, or good digestion. The finest and tenderest steaks are those cut -from the sirloin. The meat of a young well-fed heifer is very good; and -that of an old ox, (that has done working, and afterwards been fattened -well on plenty of wholesome food,) may be made of superior excellence. -The lean of good fresh beef is of a bright red color, a fine close -grain, and feels tender to the touch on pinching it between your thumb -and finger. The fat is firm and very nearly white. The suet about the -kidney, firm and quite white. If, on the contrary, the lean is coarse, -tough, and of a dull color, and the fat scanty, yellow, and moist, do -not buy that meat for any purpose. The same rules will apply to mutton. -If the weather is so cold that the meat is frozen, thaw it by lying it -all night or early in the morning in a tub of _cold_ water. If thawed in -water the least warm, the meat will spoil, and be rendered unfit to eat. -Meat that has been frozen, requires a much longer time to cook, than if -that accident had not happened. _All_ frozen animals must be thawed in -cold water previous to cooking. Cold roast-beef is much liked in -England. In America, where meat is more abundant, and therefore less -costly, it is not considered a proper dish to place before a visitor; -therefore, in our country, a large piece is seldom cooked with a view to -next day's dinner. We prefer smaller pieces, always served up fresh and -hot. Beef for roasting, should be well washed in plenty of cold water; -then dried with a clean cloth. Prepare the fire, in time to be burning -well, when the meat is put down. It should have plenty of hot coals, and -no part of the fire black, ashy, or smoky, and the hearth swept very -clean: _for no sweeping must go on while the meat (or any thing else) is -cooking_. The spit should always be kept perfectly clean, when not in -use; and well washed, wiped, and rubbed immediately after using. Run it -evenly into the meat, which will hang crooked if not well balanced. When -first put down, take care not to set it at once too close to the fire, -but place it rather more than two feet distant, that the meat may heat -gradually. If too near the fire at first, the outside will scorch, and -leave the inside red and bloody. Underdone meat (foolishly called -_rare_) is getting quite out of fashion, being unwholesome and -indigestible, and to most Americans its savour is disgusting. To ladies -and children it is always so, and even the English have ceased to like -it. It is now seldom seen but at those public tables, where they -consider it an object to have as little meat as possible eaten on the -first day, that more may be left for the second day, to be made into -indescribable messes, with ridiculous French names, and passed off as -French dishes, by the so-called French cook, who is frequently an -Irishman. - -At first, baste the meat as soon as it begins to roast, with a little -fresh butter, or fresh dripping saved from yesterday's beef. Then, when -its own fat begins to drip, baste it with that, all the while it is -cooking. Gradually move it nearer to the fire, turning the spit round -frequently, so that the meat may be cooked equally on all sides. When it -is nearly done, sprinkle it slightly, with a little salt. When it is -quite done, and you take it from the spit, put it on a large hot dish, -and keep it warm while you skim the gravy, thoroughly, so as to remove -_all_ the fat. Then mix in the gravy a small tea-cup full of hot water, -and thicken it with a very little browned flour. Send it to table very -hot. - -As a general rule, a sirloin, weighing fifteen pounds, will require -about four hours (or more) before a good steady fire. If it has been -frozen, it will take much longer. The fatter it is the more cooking it -will require. When sent to table, place near it, a small sauce-shell of -horse-radish, washed, scraped fine, and moistened with the best vinegar. -Put a tea-spoon on the top to take it with. Pickles, and a bottle of -French mustard, at good tables, are generally accompaniments to beef or -mutton, whether roasted or boiled. - -The dripping of roast beef, after all the fat has been removed, and the -basting of the meat is over, should be strained into a pan, and kept in -a cold place, with a cover; and next day, when it is congealed into a -cake, scrape off whatever impurities may still adhere to the bottom, -transfer it to a covered jar, and set it in the refrigerator, or where -it will be cold. The dripping of roast beef is excellent for frying, for -plain pie-crust, or for many other purposes. The dripping of mutton -(being tallow) is only fit for soap-fat, and will spoil any dish -whatever. - - -BROILED BEEF STEAKS.--The best steaks are those from the tender-loin. -Those from the round or rump require beating with a rolling-pin. A -steak-mallet tears them and destroys the juices of the meat. Without -beating they will generally be found too tough or hard for an American -taste, though much liked in Europe, where tender-loin steaks are -considered too expensive. But they are here so much preferred, that, on -good tables, any others are seldom seen. Have all the steaks nearly of a -size and shape, and about half an inch thick. Trim off the fat, and cut -short the bone, or remove it altogether. Season them with black pepper, -but sprinkle on no salt till they have done cooking; as salt, if put on -at first, hardens them. Set your gridiron over a bed of bright clear -coals, having first rubbed the bars with a very little beef suet, or -dripping. Not mutton fat, as it will give the taste of tallow. - -A beef steak cannot be cooked in perfection unless over wood coals. To -cook them before an anthracite fire, on an upright gridiron, is more -like toasting than broiling, and much impairs the true flavor. A -gridiron of the usual shape, with grooved or hollow bars to catch the -gravy, is best of all. Broil the steaks well; and when done on one side, -turn each steak with steak tongs; or a knife and fork, and an inverted -plate. - -If onions are liked, peel and boil a few; drain and mince them, and -sprinkle them thickly over the surface of each steak. When they are -well done, take them off the gridiron, and transfer them to a heated -dish, laying a small bit of butter upon it; and put another bit of -butter on the surface of each steak, having first sprinkled them with a -very little fine salt. What there is of their own gravy, pour round them -on the dish. Send it to table as hot as possible. - -The English custom of eating what is called _rare_ or underdone beef or -mutton, is now becoming obsolete. To ladies, especially, all food is -disgusting that is red and bloody-looking--and physicians have -discovered, that nothing is wholesome unless well cooked. The -introduction of French cookery has done that much good. - -The onions may be stewed in butter or gravy, and served up in a -sauce-boat, seasoned with nutmeg. At the famous beef-steak club of -London, each guest is furnished with a small raw onion, to take on his -fork, and rub over his empty plate, just before the steaks are served -up, which is done one at a time, and as hot as possible, being cooked in -the room. - - -FRIED BEEF STEAKS.--Sirloin steaks should be tender enough without -beating. Rump steaks will require some; but do not beat them so much as -to tear the meat and exhaust all its juices. We have seen them pounded -almost into a mass of dry shreds, scarcely adhering together. Remove the -fat and bone. Lay them in a frying-pan, with a little fresh butter -dredged with flour, and season them with pepper. Fry them brown, -turning them on both sides. Have ready some onions, peeled, washed, and -sliced. After you have turned the steaks, cover them with the sliced -onions, and then finish the frying, till all is thoroughly done, meat -and onions, slightly sprinkling them with salt. The onions had best be -boiled in a small sauce-pan by themselves, before they are sliced and -fried. - -Put the whole on one dish, the onions covering the meat. - -Mutton chops, or veal cutlets, or pork steaks, may be fried in this -manner with onions, adding to them some minced sweet marjoram, or if -pork, some sage. - - -BEEF STEAK WITH OYSTERS.--Take very fine tender sirloin steak, divested -of fat and bone; cut them not larger than the palm of your hand; lay -them in a stew-pan with some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. -Strain over them sufficient oyster-liquor to cook them well, and to keep -them from burning, and to make a gravy so as to stew, but not to boil -them. Season them with some blades of mace, some grated nutmeg, and a -few whole pepper-corns. Let them cook till they are thoroughly done, and -not the least red. Then put in some fine large oysters. Set the stew-pan -again over the fire till the oysters are plump, which should be in about -five or six minutes. If cooked too much, the oysters will toughen and -shrink. When done, transfer the whole to a deep dish, mixing the oysters -evenly among the meat. Before you take them up, make some sippet or -thin toast, in triangular or pointed slices, with the crust cut off. Dip -the slices (for a minute) in boiling water; then take them out, and -stand them in a circle all round the inside of the dish, the points of -the sippets upwards. - - -CORNED OR SALTED BEEF.--For boiling, there is no piece of corned beef so -good, and so profitable, as the round. A large round is always better -and more tender than a small one, if the ox has been well fed. A small -round of beef is generally tough. In buying it, see that it looks and -smells well, as sometimes beef is not salted till it begins to taint; -and then it is done, with a view of disguising its unwholesome and -disgusting condition, which, however, will immediately be manifest as -soon as it is put on to boil, if not before. Every sort of food, the -least verging on decomposition, is unfit for any thing but to throw away -or bury. It is not necessary to buy always a whole round of beef. You -can have it cut into a half, third part, quarter, or into as many pounds -as you want. If very salt, lay it to soak in cold water the night -before, or early in the morning. Half a round (weighing about fifteen -pounds) will require about four hours to boil sufficiently. A whole -round, double that time. It must boil very slowly. If it boils too fast -at first, nothing will afterwards make it tender. The fire must be -steady, and moderate, that the heat may penetrate all through, slowly -and equally. The pot must be kept closely covered, unless for a minute -when the scum is taken off, and that must be done frequently. The beef -should, while boiling, be turned several times in the pot. It is much -the best way to boil it without any vegetables in the same pot; they -imbibe too much of the fat, particularly cabbage. Boil the cabbage by -itself in plenty of water, having first washed it well, laid it a while -in cold water, with the head downwards, and examined it well to see if -there are no insects between the leaves. The leaves on the very outside, -should be removed, and the stalk cut short. Tie a string round the -cabbage to keep it from falling apart. Put it into a pot with plenty of -cold water, and boil it an hour. Then take it out, drain it, and lay it -in a pan of cold water, or place it under the hydrant, for the hydrant -water to run copiously upon it. - -When the cabbage is perfectly cold, wash out the pot in which it was -parboiled, or put it into another quite clean one, and boil it another -hour. Then take it up, and keep it warm till wanted. Before you send it -to table, lay some bits of nice fresh butter between the inside leaves, -and sprinkle on a little pepper. This is much nicer than preparing what -is called drawn or melted butter to pour over the cabbage, and far more -wholesome. Drawn butter is seldom well made, being frequently little -more than a small morsel of butter, deluged with greasy water; and -sometimes it is nearly all flour and water. Cabbage cooked as above will -be found excellent, and be divested of the cabbage smell which is to -many persons disagreeable. - -Carrots are also an usual accompaniment to corned beef. They should be -washed, scraped, cut into pieces, and split, if very large; put into -boiling water, and cooked, according to their size, from one hour to two -hours. Before taking them up, try with a fork if they are tender -throughout. When done, they are best cut into slices, a little cold -butter mixed with them, and put into a deep dish, to be helped with a -spoon. - -Parsnips may be dressed in the same manner. - -For a plain family dinner, corned beef, cabbage, and carrots, cooked -_exactly_ as above, with, of course, the addition of potatos, will, on -trial, be found excellent. - -Corned beef _stewed_ very slowly, in a small quantity of water, (barely -sufficient to cover the meat,) well skimmed, and with the vegetables -done separately, is still better than when _boiled_. Mustard is a good -condiment for corned beef--so is vinegar to the cabbage. Pickles, also; -French mustard is very fine with it. - -Next to the round, the edgebone is the best piece for boiling. The -brisket or plate is too fat, and should only be eaten by persons in -strong health, and who take a great deal of exercise. No fat meat should -be given to children. Indeed there is generally great difficulty in -making them eat it. They are right, as it is very unwholesome for them, -unless the very leanest bits are selected from among the mass of fat. - -Have tarragon vinegar on the table to eat with corned beef and cabbage. - - -FRIED CORNED BEEF.--This is a very homely and economical dish, but it is -liked by many persons. Cut thin slices from a cold round of beef, and -season them with pepper. Fry them brown over a quick fire, and put them -in a covered dish to keep hot. Then wash the frying-pan, cleaning it -well from the fat, and put into it plenty of cold boiled cabbage, cut -small, and some cold carrots, sliced thin, adding some thin sliced suet, -or beef dripping to fry them in. When done, dish the meat with the -vegetables laid around it; adding the gravy. This is the dish called in -England, Bubble-and-Squeak, perhaps from the noise it makes when frying. -It is only designed for strong healthy people with good appetites. - -It is sometimes made of salt pork or bacon; sliced potatos being added -to the cabbage. - - -DRIED AND SMOKED BEEF.--For this purpose have as much as you want cut -off from a fine round. Mix together two ounces of saltpetre, (finely -pounded) rub it into the meat, cover it, and let it stand a day. Then -mix together half a pound of bay-salt, an ounce of black pepper, half an -ounce of ground ginger, and an ounce of pounded mace, and a quarter of -an ounce of powdered cloves. Rub this mixture well into the beef, put it -into a deep pan, and let it lie in this pickle two weeks, turning it -every day. Then hang it up in a smoke-house, and smoke it over a fire -made of corn-cobs, or maple chips. Never use pine for smoking. - -It may be eaten chipped at tea, or what is much better, stewed and -warmed in a skillet. Venison may be spiced, dried, and smoked in the -same manner. - - -TO STEW SMOKED BEEF.--Having chipped it thin, put it into a skillet, -with fresh butter, pepper, and two or three beaten yolks of eggs. Let it -stew till the beef is crisp and curled up. - -Never allow yourself to be persuaded to use pyroligneous acid in curing -dried beef or ham--instead of the real smoke of a wood fire. It -communicates a taste and smell of kreosote, and is a detestable -substitute, detected in a moment. - - -A SPICED ROUND OF BEEF.--Take a large prime round of beef; extract the -bone, and close the hole. Tie a tape all round it to keep it firm. Take -four ounces of finely powdered saltpetre, and rub it well into the beef. -Put the meat into a very clean pickling-tub that has a close-fitting -cover, and let it rest for two days. Next rub it thoroughly with salt, -and return it to the tub for eight days. Then take an ounce of powdered -mace, a large nutmeg powdered, a half-ounce of pepper, and a quarter of -an ounce of powdered cloves, (not more.) Mix these spices well -together, and then mix them with a pound of fine brown sugar. Rub the -spices and sugar thoroughly all over the beef, which will be ready to -cook next day. Then fill the opening with minced sweet herbs, sweet -basil, and sweet marjoram, laid in loosely and lightly. Take half a -pound of nice beef-suet. Divide it in two, and flatten each half of the -suet by beating it with a rolling-pin. Lay it in a broad earthen pan, -with one sheet of suet under the meat, and the other pressed over it. -Above this place a sheet of clean white paper, and over all put a large -plate. Set it in a hot oven, and bake it five hours or more, till by -probing it to the bottom, with a sharp knife, you find it thoroughly -cooked. It is excellent as a cold standing dish, for a large family. -When it is to be eaten cold, boil fresh cabbage to go with it. Also -parsnips and carrots. - -_Cabbage._--For this beef, red cabbage is very nice, cut small, and -stewed with butter and tarragon vinegar. - - -A-LA-MODE BEEF.--Remove the bone from a fine round of fresh beef, and -also take off the fat. For a round that weighs ten pounds, make -seasoning or stuffing in the following proportions. Half a pound of beef -suet; half a pound of grated bread-crumbs; the crumbled yolks of three -hard-boiled eggs; a large bundle of sweet marjoram, the leaves chopped; -another of sweet basil; four onions minced small, a large table-spoonful -of mixed mace and nutmeg, powdered. Season slightly with salt and -cayenne. Stuff this mixture into the place from whence you took out the -bone. Make numerous deep cuts or incisions about the meat, and stuff -them also. Skewer the meat into a proper shape, and secure its form by -tying it round with tape. Put it into a clean iron oven or bake-pan, and -pour over it a pint of port wine. Put on the lid, and bake the beef -slowly for five or six hours, or till it is thoroughly done all through. - -If the meat is to be eaten hot, skim all the fat from the gravy; into -which, after it is taken off the fire, stir in the beaten yolks of two -eggs. - -If onions are disliked you can omit them, and substitute minced oysters. - - -BEEF A-LA-MODE--(_Another way._)--Take a fine round of fresh beef, -extract the bone, and fill the place from whence it was taken with a -stuffing made of bread soaked in milk and then mashed up, butter, and -some yolks of hard-boiled eggs crumbled fine, the yellow rind and juice -of a large grated lemon, sweet marjoram and sweet basil chopped small, -with some powdered nutmeg and mace. Make deep cuts or incisions all over -the outside of the meat, and in every cut stick firmly a slip of bacon -or salt pork put in with a larding-pin. Bring round the flap and skewer -to the side of the round, filling in between with some of the stuffing. -And pour round it a pint or more of port wine. Lay it in an oven, and -bake it slowly till it is well done all through, which will require -some hours. Serve it up with its own gravy under it. It is more -generally eaten cold, at a supper party. In this case, cover it thickly -all over with double parsley or pepper grass, so as to resemble a green -bank. In the centre place a bouquet of natural flowers, rising from the -green bank. - -French a-la-mode beef, or beef _a-la-daube_, is prepared as above, but -stewed slowly all night in lard. - - -BEEF BOUILLI.--Take from six to eight pounds of a fine round of _fresh_ -beef. Put it into a soup-pot, with the remains of a piece of cold roast -beef (bones and all) to enrich the gravy, but use no other cold meat -than beef. Season it slightly with salt and pepper, and pour on just -sufficient water to cover it well. Boil it slowly, and skim it well. -When the scum ceases to rise, have ready half a dozen large carrots, cut -into pieces, and put _them_ in first. Afterwards add six turnips, -quartered; a head of celery, cut small; half a dozen parsnips, cut in -pieces; and six whole onions. Let it boil slowly till all the vegetables -are done, and very tender. - -Send it to table with the beef in the middle of a large dish; the -vegetables laid all around it; and the gravy (thickened with fine grated -bread-crumbs) in a sauce-boat. Serve up with it, white potatos, boiled -whole; and mashed pumpkin, or winter squash. - -This is a good dinner for a plain family. - -Those who like tarragon mustard, or tarragon vinegar, may add it on -their plates. - -Tomatos may be skinned and stewed with it. - - -TO STEW COLD CORNED BEEF.--Cut about four pounds of lean from a cold -round of beef, that tastes but little of the salt. Lay it in a stew-pan, -with a quarter of a peck of tomatos quartered, and the same quantity of -ochras sliced; also, two small onions peeled and sliced, and two ounces -of fresh butter rolled in flour. Add a tea-spoonful of whole -pepper-corns, (_no salt_,) and four or five blades of mace. Place it -over a steady but moderate fire. Cover it closely, and let it stew three -or four hours. The vegetables should be entirely dissolved. Serve it up -hot. - -This is an excellent way of using up the remains of a cold round of beef -at the season of tomatos and ochras, particularly when the meat has been -rather under-boiled the first day of cooking it. - -A few pounds of the lean of a _fresh_ round of beef, will be still -better, cooked in this manner, increasing the quantity of ochras and -tomatos, and stewing it six hours. - -Cold fillet of veal is very good stewed with tomatos, ochras, and an -onion or two. Also, the thick or upper part of a cold leg of mutton; or -of pork, either fresh or corned. - - -TO STEW SMOKED BEEF.--The dried beef, for this purpose, must be fresh -and of the very best quality. Cut it (or rather shave it) into very -thin, small slices, with as little fat as possible. Put the beef into a -skillet, and fill up with boiling water. Cover it, and let it soak or -steep till the water is cold. Then drain off that water, and pour on -some more; but merely enough to cover the chipped beef, which you may -season with a little pepper. Set it over the fire, and (keeping on the -cover) let it stew for a quarter of an hour. Then roll a few bits of -butter in a little flour, and add it to the beef, with the yolk of one -or two beaten eggs. Let it stew five minutes longer. Take it up on a hot -dish, and send it to the breakfast or tea-table. - -Cold ham may be sliced thin, and stewed in the same manner. Dried -venison also. - - -FRENCH BEEF.--Take a circular piece from the round, (having removed the -bone,) and trim it nicely from the fat, skin, &c. Then lard it all over -with long slips of fat pork or bacon. The place from whence the bone was -taken must be filled with a forcemeat, made of minced suet, grated -bread-crumbs, sweet marjoram rubbed fine, and grated lemon-peel; add a -little salt and pepper. Tie a tape closely round the outside of the -beef, to keep it compact, and in shape. Put it into a broad earthen jar -with a cover; or into an iron bake-oven. Add some whole pepper, a large -onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, three bay-leaves, a quarter of a pound of -butter, divided into small bits, (each piece rolled in flour,) and half -a pint of claret, or port wine. Bake or stew it thus in its own liquor, -for five, six, or seven hours, (in proportion to its size,) for it must -be thoroughly done, quite tender, and brown all through the inside. - - -STEWED FRESH BEEF.--Cut a square thick piece of beef from the round or -sirloin, and trim off the fat. Put it into a stew-pan with just water -enough to cover it, and season it slightly with salt and pepper. Let it -stew slowly, till tender all through. Then add potatos pared and -quartered, turnips the same; and also, parsnips split and cut short, and -(if approved) a few sliced onions. Stew altogether till the vegetables -are thoroughly cooked, and then serve up the whole on one large dish. - -Mutton, veal, and fresh pork, may be stewed in the same manner. Sweet -potatos, scraped and split, are excellent served with fresh meat. There -should be a great plenty of vegetables, as they are much liked in stews. -What is called an Irish stew is fresh beef stewed with potatos only--the -potatos being first pared, and cut in quarters. - -For economy, cold roast beef may be stewed next day with fresh potatos -cut up, and as little water as possible. Cold potatos, if re-cooked, are -always hard, tough, and unwholesome. - - -STEWED BEEFSTEAKS WITH OYSTERS.--Take some fine tender beef-steaks cut -from the sirloin. If they are taken from the round they should be beaten -with a rolling-pin to make them tender. Put them into a close stew-pan, -with barely sufficient water to prevent their burning, and set them over -the fire to brown. When they are browned, add sufficient oyster-liquor -to cook them, and some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Let them -stew slowly for an hour, or till they are thoroughly done. Then add -three or four dozen of fine large fresh oysters, in proportion to the -quantity of meat, seasoning them well with nutmeg, a few blades of mace, -and a little cayenne. Cover the pan, and simmer them till the oysters -are well plumped, but not till they come to a boil. When all is properly -cooked, transfer the whole to a deep dish, and send it to table hot. - -The meat, when preparing, should be cut into pieces about as large as -the palm of your hand, and an inch thick, omitting the fat. Small clams -may be substituted for oysters. - - -TOMATO STEWED BEEF.--Take large ripe tomatos, and scald them, to make -the skins peel off easily. Pare, quarter them, and sprinkle them with a -little salt and pepper. Lay in a stew-pan some thin tender beef-steaks, -lamb, mutton-chops, or cutlets of fresh pork. Bury the meat in the -tomatos, and add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour and a little -sugar to take off the extreme acid of the tomatos; also, an onion or -two, very finely minced. Let the whole cook slowly till the meat is -thoroughly done, and the tomatos dissolved to a pulp. Send it to table -all on the same dish. - -A rabbit or chicken, (cut apart as for carving,) is very good stewed -with tomatos. Freshly killed venison is excellent for this stew. - -Many persons mix grated bread with tomato stew. We think it weakens the -taste--a thing not desirable in any cooking. - -This stew must not have a drop of water in it; the tomatos will give out -sufficient liquid to cook the meat. There is not a more wholesome dish. - - -BEEF STEWED WITH ONIONS.--Take a square piece of beef from the sirloin, -where there is no bone or fat. With a sharp knife make very deep -incisions all over it, but not quite so deep as to cut it through to the -bottom. Prepare a forcemeat by peeling and boiling some onions. Then -drain and mince them. Mix in with the onions some fine bread-crumbs, and -some chopped sweet-marjoram, (seasoning with powdered nutmeg and mace,) -and fill tightly all the incisions. Put into the bottom of a stew-pan -some drippings of roast-beef, or else a piece of fresh butter rolled in -flour. Lay the seasoned meat upon it. Let it stew till completely -cooked, and no redness to be found in any part of it. Serve it up hot, -and send it to table in its own gravy. - -A round or fillet of fresh pork may be cooked as above, putting into the -incisions, or holes, powdered sage instead of sweet marjoram, with the -onions and crumbs; and using lard instead of beef-drippings. Eat apple -sauce with it. - - -BEEF STEWED WITH OYSTERS.--Prepare two or three pounds of the best beef, -by trimming off all the fat, and removing the bone. Lay in the bottom of -the stew-pan a few bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Then put in the -meat, and sprinkle a little pepper over each piece. Have ready a quart -of large fresh oysters. Strain the liquor to clear it from bits of the -shell, and pour it over the meat in the stew-pan. Stew the meat in the -oyster liquor till it is thoroughly cooked, skimming it well, and -keeping it covered, except when skimming. Then add grated nutmeg, and a -few blades of mace. Lastly, put in the oysters, and let them remain in -just long enough to plump, which will be in a few minutes. If cooked too -much oysters always shrivel, and become hard and tough. When all is -done, serve up the whole in one dish. - -In the same manner clams may be stewed with beef. Never put any salt -where there are clams. They are quite salt enough in themselves. - - -FRENCH STEW.--Cut into pieces two or three pounds of the lean of fresh -tender beef, mutton, veal, or pork, and peel and slice a quarter of a -peck or more of ripe tomatos. Season the whole with a little pepper and -salt. Add, if you choose, a tea-spoonful of sugar to moderate the -extreme acid of the tomatos. Put the whole together into a stew-pot, and -cover it closely, opening it occasionally to see how it is doing. Put no -water to this stew, the juice of the tomatos will cook it thoroughly. -Add a large table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves. When the tomatos -are all dissolved, stir in a piece of fresh butter, dredged with flour. -Let it stew about a quarter of an hour longer. When the meat is quite -tender all through, and every thing well done, make some sippets of -triangular shaped toast, with the crust trimmed off. Dip the toast, for -a moment, in hot water; butter and stand it up all round the inside of a -deep dish. Then fill it with the stew, and serve it hot. Any meat may be -stewed thus with tomatos. - - -POTATO BEEF.--This is an excellent family dish. Boil some potatos till -well done, all through. Peel them, put them into a large pan, and mash -them smoothly, adding, as you proceed, some milk, and one or more beaten -eggs, well mixed into the potatos. Rub the bottom of a white ware -pudding dish with nice butter, or some drippings of cold beef, and cover -it with a thick layer of mashed potatos. Next, put in thin slices of -beef, (omitting the fat,) enough to cover the potatos. Next, add -another layer of mashed potatos, evenly and thickly spread. Then, more -thin slices of beef, and then more potatos. Do this, till the dish is -full; finishing it with potatos, on the top, heaping them up in the -centre. Bake it in an oven. There must be plenty of potatos, as they -will be much liked. - - -BEEF AND MUSHROOMS.--Take three pounds of the best sirloin steaks. -Season them with black pepper and a very little salt, having removed the -fat and bone. Put a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter into a -frying-pan, and set it over the fire. When it is boiling hot, put in the -steaks, and fry them brown. Have ready a quart of very fresh mushrooms, -peeled and stemmed. If large, cut them in four. Season them with a -little pepper and salt, and dredge them lightly with flour, and add a -few bits of butter. Stew them in a separate pan kept closely covered. -When the steaks are done, pour the mushrooms over them with all their -juice. Put them all (steaks and mushrooms) into a dish with a cover, and -serve them up hot. - -This is a breakfast dish, or a side dish for dinner. Unless the company -is very small, four pounds of beef steaks, at least, and three pints of -mushrooms, (with butter in proportion) will be required at dinner, as it -will be much liked. - - -BEEF'S HEART.--Wash the heart well, and soak it in a pan of tepid water -till all the blood is drawn out of the ventricles, and it is made very -clean and dry. Next par-boil it a quarter of an hour. Then stuff the -cavities with a forcemeat made of minced veal, bread-crumbs, butter or -minced suet, and sweet herbs, seasoned with a little pepper and nutmeg; -or it may be stuffed simply with sage and onions. Sew up the openings -with coarse brown thread, lest the forcemeat should fall out. Put the -heart on a spit, and roast it before a clear fire, for near two hours; -basting it well with nice fresh butter. Thicken the gravy with a little -flour, and stir into it a glass of port wine, or of tarragon vinegar. -Have ready a hot dish and a heated cover. Serve up the heart as hot as -possible, for it soon chills, and pour the gravy around it. The gravy -should be heated to a boil in a small sauce-pan. - -_Calves' Hearts_ are cooked in the same manner. As they are small, it -takes four calves' hearts to make a dish. - -Hearts may be sliced and stewed with onions and sweet herbs, adding to -the stew a little salad oil. - - -BEEF PATTIES.--A nice way of disposing of underdone roast beef, is to -mince fine all the lean, and a _very little_ of the fat. Season it with -cayenne, and powdered nutmeg, or mace, or else chopped sweet herbs. If -you have any stewed mushroom-gravy, moisten the meat with that. Make a -nice paste, and cut it into small circular sheets, rolled out not very -thin. Cover one half of each sheet of paste with the minced beef (not -too near the edge) and fold over the other half, so as to form a half -moon. Wet your fingers with cold water, and pinch together the two edges -of the half moon. Then crimp them with a sharp knife. Lay the patties in -square baking pans, prick them with a fork, and bake them brown. Or you -may fry them in lard. Serve them up hot, as side dishes. - -Cold veal, minced with cold ham, or tongue, makes very nice patties; -also cold chicken or turkey. - - -A BEEF STEAK PIE.--Stew two pounds or more, of fine tender sirloin -steaks, divested of fat and bone, and cut rather thin. Season them with -a very little salt and pepper; and, when about half done, remove them -from the fire, and keep them warm, saving all the gravy. Make a nice -paste, allowing to two quarts of flour one pound and a quarter of fresh -butter. Divide the butter into four quarters. Rub one half into the pan -of flour, and make it into a dough with, a very little cold water. Roll -it out into a large sheet, and with a broad knife stick over it, at -equal distances, one of the remaining divisions of butter. Then sprinkle -it with more flour, fold it, and roll it out again into a large sheet. -Put on the remainder of the butter in bits, as before. Then fold it -again. Cut the paste into equal halves, and roll them out into two -sheets, trimmed into round or oval forms. With one sheet line a -pie-dish, and fill it with your meat, adding, if convenient, some -mushrooms, or some fresh oysters, or the soft part of a few clams, and -some blades of mace. Use the other sheet of paste as a cover for the -pie, uniting the edges with the under crust by crimping it nicely. Of -the trimmings of the paste, make an ornament or tulip, and stick it into -the slit at the top of the pie. - - -MEAT PIES--May be made in the above manner of lamb, veal, or pork. Also -of venison or any sort of fresh meat. Pie crust for baking should be -shortened with butter, or with the dripping of roast beef, veal, or -_fresh_ pork. Mutton or lamb dripping are unfit for pie crust, as they -make it taste of tallow. Suet will not do at all for _baked_ paste, -though very good if the paste is to be boiled. Butter and lard will make -a nice plain paste for pies, if both are fresh and good; the butter to -be rubbed into the flour, mixed with a little cold water, and rolled -out; the lard to be spread evenly all over the sheet; then folded and -rolled out again. Meat pies should always have a bottom crust, as the -gravy it imbibes makes it very relishing. Veal pies are insipid without -the addition of some cold ham. - -Pies made of game should have a puff-paste, as they are generally for -company. - -On the shores of the Chesapeake, very fine pies are made of canvas-back, -or red-neck ducks, when in season. They require puff-paste to be made -in perfection. Pot-pies of these ducks are, of course, excellent. - - -A BEEF STEAK POT-PIE.--Take two pounds or more of tender beef steaks, -exclusive of the fat and bone, which must be omitted; the steaks from -the sirloin end, cut less than an inch thick, and not larger than four -or five inches square. Put them into a pot with enough water to cover -them, and season them slightly with pepper and salt. Dredge them with a -little flour, and lay on each a morsel of nice fresh butter. Stew the -steaks for half an hour. Meanwhile make a large portion of paste; -allowing to every quart or pound of flour, a small half pound of nice -beef-suet, entirely freed from all its skin and strings, and minced with -a chopper as finely as possible. To three pounds of beef allow four -quarts of flour and not quite two pounds of suet. A pot-pie with but -little paste in proportion to the meat, is no better than a stew. The -paste, if good, is always much liked. Divide the minced suet into two -halves. Rub or crumble one half the suet into the pan of flour; adding -by degrees a little _cold_ water, barely enough to make a stiff dough; -first mixing in a small tea-spoonful of salt. Roll out the lump of dough -into a large sheet, and spread it all over with the remainder of the -minced suet, laid on with a broad knife. Then fold it up, and set it on -a dish in a cool place, to get quite cold. Take a large iron pot, made -very clean. Lay in the bottom the largest pieces of beef steak, and -line round the sides with pieces of the paste, cut to fit. Next put in -the remainder of the meat, interspersed with raw potatos sliced, (either -white or sweet potatos,) and also pieces of the paste cut into squares, -and laid among the meat, to which must be added the gravy saved from the -stew. When the pot is nearly full, cover its contents with a large round -or circular piece of paste. This must not fit _quite closely_, but a -little space or crack must be left all around for the gravy to bubble up -as it boils. Before you put on the lid pour in half a pint, or more, of -water. Cut a cross-slit in the centre of the top-crust. Set the pot over -a good fire, and let it boil steadily, till all is done, meat and paste. -The upper-crust should be well-browned. When cooked, serve the whole -upon one large dish, laying the brown upper-crust on the top of all. If -there is too much gravy, send some of it to table in a sauce-boat, first -skimming it. - -It will be improved by adding to the seasoning some nutmeg or powdered -mace. These are the only spices that accord well with meat or poultry. - - -POT-PIES.--The preceding receipt is good for any sort of pot-pie. They -are all on the same principle. The meat to be divested of the fat, and -stewed first in a pot by itself, saving the gravy. The paste (of which -there should always be an ample allowance) sufficient to line the sides -of the pot all round, and reaching up nearly to the top, besides plenty -of small square pieces to intersperse with the meat, and an upper crust -to cover the whole. At the very bottom the meat and gravy only, as there -the paste might burn. Pot-pies may be made of any sort of fresh meat, or -of fowls or any sort of poultry (cut up, as if for carving,) and -previously stewed. If made of chickens or pigeons or rabbits, add a few -slices of cold ham and put no other salt. For want of suet you may make -the paste with butter, but it must be fresh and good. Allow half a pound -of butter to a large quart of flour. Potato paste is tolerable for -shortening pot-pies, if you make it half mashed potato and half lard. We -do not recommend bread dough or any thing raised with yeast or soda for -boiled paste; when there is no shortening, boiled paste is always tough -and unwholesome. - -Pot-pies may be made of apples pared, cored, and quartered; of peaches -quartered and stoned, or of any nice fruit. Fruit pot-pies should have -butter paste, and be well sweetened with brown sugar. - -All boiled dough should be eaten warm. It falls and becomes heavy as -soon as cold. - - -BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.--After clearing it from the skin and strings, mince -as fine as possible three quarters of a pound of nice beef suet. Sift -into a pan two small quarts of flour. Rub half the suet into the flour, -and make it into a paste with a little cold water, (as little as -possible.) Roll it out into a large sheet, and spread over it, evenly, -the other half of the minced suet. Fold it, flour it, roll it again, -and divide it unequally into two pieces, one nearly three times larger -than the other. Roll them out, rather thick than thin. Have ready a -large pound and a quarter of tender-loin beef steak, that has been cut -into thin pieces (without fat or bone, seasoned with a very little salt -and pepper, and some nutmeg) and half-stewed, saving its gravy. Lay this -meat upon the large thick sheet of crust; pour the stewed gravy among -it, and add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Cover it with the -small round of paste, cut to fit, only allowing the lid large enough to -project a little over, so as to be joined firmly by pressing it all -round with your fingers. Do it well and securely, that it may not come -apart while boiling. Dip a large square pudding-cloth in hot -water--shake it out--lay it in a deep pan, dredge it with flour, lay the -pudding into it and tie it firmly, leaving room for swelling. Put it -into a large pot of boiling water, and boil it till, on probing with a -fork, you find the meat quite tender. - -Or you may boil it in a large bowl with a rim, tying the cloth carefully -all over the top. Set the bowl in a pot of boiling water. - - -TO BOIL TRIPE.--Clean the tripe very carefully, giving it a thorough -scraping, and washing in warm water, and trim off the superfluous fat. -Lay it all night in weak salt and water. Then wash it again. Let it lie -an hour or two in milk and water, and then boil it five hours or more, -putting it on in cold water. It must be perfectly tender throughout. -This should be done the day _before_ it is to be cooked for dinner. On -that day, cut it into strips or bands, roll them with the fat side -inwards. Tie the rolls round with small white twine, and boil them two -hours longer; or till they are _perfectly tender throughout, and incline -to look transparent near the edges_. Have ready in a saucepan, some -onions peeled; and boil in milk and water, till soft enough to mash. -Then take them out; drain them; mix with the onion-water some nice fresh -butter divided into pieces and rolled in flour. When this has come to a -boil, return the onions to the liquor; season them with pepper, and give -them one boil up. When the tripe is done, transfer it to a deep dish, -and pour the onion sauce over it. When on your plate, add to it some -tarragon vinegar or mustard. Take the strings off before the tripe goes -to table. - - -TRIPE CURRY.--Having boiled two pounds of double tripe, cut it into -slips, peel two large onions, cut them also into dice, and put them into -a stew-pan, with three ounces, or three table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. -Let them stew till brown, stirring frequently, and mixing in a -table-spoonful of curry-powder. Add a pint of milk, and the cut-up -tripe. Let all stew together for an hour or more, skimming it well. -Serve it up in a tureen or deep dish, with a dish of boiled rice to eat -with it. - -A good East India receipt for curry-powder, is to pound, very fine, in -a marble mortar, (made very clean,) six ounces of coriander seed, three -quarters of an ounce of cayenne, one ounce and a half of foenugreek -seed; one ounce of cummin seed, and three ounces of turmeric. These -articles (all of which can be obtained at a druggist's,) being pounded -extremely fine, must be sifted through clean thin muslin, and spread on -a dish, and laid before the fire for three hours, stirring them -frequently. Keep this powder in a bottle with a glass stopper. It is -used for giving an East Indian flavor to stews. The turmeric -communicates a fine yellow color. - -Boiled rice is always eaten with curry dishes. - -Curry balls for Mock Turtle, &c., are made of bread-crumbs, fresh -butter, hard-boiled yolk of egg, chopped fine, a seasoning of curry -powder, and some beaten raw egg, to make the mixture into balls, about -the size of a hickory-nut. - - -FRIED TRIPE.--Having boiled the tripe till perfectly tender all through; -cut it into pieces three or four inches square. Make a batter of four -beaten eggs, four table-spoonfuls of flour, and a pint of milk, seasoned -with powdered nutmeg or mace. Have boiling in the frying-pan an ample -quantity of the drippings of roast veal, or beef. Dip each piece of -tripe twice into the batter; then lay it in the pan, and fry it brown. -Send it to table hot. - -Tripe was long considered very indigestible. This, it is now found, was -a mistake; physicians having discovered that it is quite the contrary, -the gastric juice that it contained, as the stomach of the animal, -rendering it singularly fitted for digestion, provided that it is -thoroughly cooked; so that on trial, a fork can easily penetrate every -part of it. - - -TONGUES.--Corned or salted tongues are very little in use now. They -spoil so soon, that it is scarcely possible to obtain one that has not -been salted too late; and when quite fresh, they have a faint, -sickening, doubtful taste. It is best always to buy them dried and -smoked. Choose the largest and plumpest, and with as smooth an outside -or skin as you can. Put a tongue into soak the evening before it is to -be cooked; changing the water at bed-time. In the morning wash it in -fresh water. Trim off the root, which is an unsightly object, and never -carved at table. But it may be cut into pieces, and added to pea-soup, -or bean-soup, or pepper-pot. Put on the tongue in a large pot of cold -water, and boil it steadily for five or six hours, till it is so tender -that a straw, or a twig from a corn-broom, will easily penetrate it. -When you find that it is thoroughly done (and not till then) take it up. -A smoked tongue requires more boiling than a ham, and therefore is -seldom sufficiently cooked. When quite done, peel it carefully, and keep -it warm till dinner. If well-boiled, it will seem almost to melt in your -mouth. When you dish it do not split it. The flavor is much injured by -carving it lengthways, or in long pieces. It should be cut in round -slices, not too thin. - -For a large party we have seen two cold tongues on one dish. One of them -whole--the root concealed entirely with double parsley, cut paper, or a -bunch of flowers cut out of vegetables, very ingeniously, with a sharp -penknife--the vegetables raw, of course not to be eaten. Red roses made -of beets, white roses or camellias of turnips, marigolds of carrots, &c. -The stems are short wooden skewers, stuck into the flowers, and -concealed by double parsley. These vegetable bouquets can be made to -look very well, as ornaments to cold tongue, or to the end of the shank -of a ham, or to stick into the centre of a cold round of a-la-mode beef. - -Where there are two cold tongues on one dish, it is usual to split one -to be helped lengthways, and garnish it with the other, cut into -circular pieces, and laid handsomely round. - -Cold tongue sliced is a great improvement to a chicken pie, or to any -bird pie. - - -BAKED TONGUE.--Having soaked a fine large smoked tongue all night, in -the morning trim it nicely, and if it still seems hard, soak it again in -fresh cold water till it is time to cook it. Then put it into a deep -dish, (having trimmed off the root,) and make a coarse paste of flour -and water. Cut up the roots into little bits, and lay them round and -about the tongue, to enrich the gravy. Lay all along the surface some -bits of butter rolled in flour, and season with a little pepper--no -salt. Pour in a very little water, and cover the dish with the coarse -paste. Bake it till the tongue is very tender. This you may ascertain by -raising up with a knife one corner of the paste and trying the tongue. -When done, peel it, dish it, strain the gravy over the tongue, and send -it to table. Garnish with baked tomatos, or mushrooms, or large roasted -chestnuts peeled. - -For a large company have two baked tongues, one at each end of the -table. Eat them warm. - - -LARDED TONGUE.--Take a large cold tongue, that has been well boiled. -Trim off the roots. Have ready some slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, -cut into long thin pieces, about as thick as straws. With a larding -needle, draw them through the outside of the tongue, and leave them -there. Arrange the borders in rows, or handsome regular forms, leaving -about an inch standing up on the surface. - -Cold meat or poultry is far better for larding than that which is yet to -cook. - - -TONGUE TOAST.--Make some slices of nice toast, not very thick, but -browned evenly all over, on both sides. Trim off the whole of the crust. -Butter the toast slightly. Grate, with a large grater plenty of cold -tongue, and spread it thickly over the toast. Lay the slices side by -side, on a large dish--not one slice on the top of another. - -Serve them up at breakfast, luncheon, or supper. - - -HAM TOAST--Is prepared in the same manner, of grated cold ham spread on -slices of buttered toast. - - -SANDWICHES--Are slices of cold ham, or tongue, _cut very thin_, and laid -between thin slices of buttered bread. The meat may be seasoned with -French mustard. Roll them up nicely. There are silver cases made to -contain sandwiches to eat on the road when traveling. - -Sandwiches for traveling may be made of the _lean_ of cold beef, (roast -or boiled,) cut very thin, seasoned with French mustard, and laid -between two slices of bread and butter. - - - - -MUTTON. - - -MUTTON.--If mutton is good it is of a fine grain; the lean is of a -bright red color, and the fat firm and white. Unless there is plenty of -fat the lean will not be good; and so it is with all meat. If the lean -is of a very dark red, and coarse and hard, and the fat yellowish and -spongy, the mutton is old, tough, and strong. Therefore, do not buy it. -If there is any dark or blackish tint about the meat, it is tainted, and -of course unwholesome. If kept till it acquires what the English call -venison taste, Americans will very properly refuse to eat it. - -We give no directions for disguising spoilt meat. It should be thrown -away. Nothing is fit to eat in which decomposition is commencing. - - -BOILED LOIN OF MUTTON.--A good loin of mutton is always very fat, so -that in cooking it is well to remove or pare off a portion of the -outside fat. Unlike most other meats, mutton is the better for being -boiled in soup. Put it into a large pot; allow to every pound a quart of -water. Boil it slowly and skim it well, adding the vegetables when the -scum has done rising. The vegetables should be sliced turnips, potatos, -and grated carrots. Have ready plenty of suet dumplings, in the -proportion of half a pound of finely minced suet to a pound and a -quarter of flour. Rub the suet into the pan of flour, and use as little -water as possible in mixing the dough. Make it into thick dumplings, -rather larger round than a dollar. Boil them in a pot by themselves, -till thoroughly done. Serve up the meat with the dumplings round it. Or -put the dumplings in a dish by themselves, and surround the meat with -whole turnips. This is an excellent plain dish for a private family. -Serve up pickles with it. - - -SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON.--This particularly applies to mutton that has -been boiled in soup, and which is so very generally liked, that it is -served up on tables where soup-meat of beef and veal is considered -inadmissible. To make a suitable sauce to eat with it--take two or three -large boiled onions; slice them and put them into a sauce-pan, with a -piece of fresh butter slightly rolled in flour, a table-spoonful of -_made_ mustard. French mustard will be best; or, for want of that, two -table-spoonfuls of strong tarragon vinegar, and a half-salt-spoon of -cayenne, and some pickled cucumbers chopped, but not minced. Green -nasturtion seeds will be still better than cucumbers. Put these -ingredients into a small sauce-pan, adding to them a little of the -mutton soup. Set this sauce over the fire, and when it simmers well, -take it off, put into a sauce-boat, and keep it hot till the mutton goes -to table. - -To keep nasturtions--take the full-grown green seeds, and put them into -a large bottle of the best _cider_ vinegar, corking them closely. They -require nothing more, and are far superior to capers. - - -BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.--After nicely trimming a middle-sized leg of -mutton, wash, but do not soak it. Put it into a pot that will hold it -well, and pour on rather more water than is sufficient to cover it. Set -it over a good fire, and skim it as soon as it begins to boil, and -continue till no more scum appears; having thrown in a small -table-spoonful of salt after the first skimming. After the liquid is -clear, put in some turnips, pared, and, if large, divided into four -pieces. Afterwards it should boil slowly, or simmer gently for about two -hours or more. Send to table with it caper sauce; or nasturtion, which -is still better. Eat it with any sort of green pickles. Pickles and -turnips seem indispensable to boiled mutton. Do not mash the turnips, -but let them be well drained. - -Setting boiled turnips in the sun will give them an unpleasant taste. - -Tarragon sauce is excellent with boiled mutton. - - -MUTTON STEAKS STEWED.--Take some tender mutton steaks, cut from the leg. -Beat them a little with a rolling pin, and season them with pepper and -salt. Put them into a stew-pan with sliced potatos, sliced turnips, -sliced onions, sliced or grated carrots, and sweet marjoram leaves -stripped from the stalks. Pour in just sufficient water to cover the -stew, and let it cook slowly till it is tender and well done. Serve it -up hot in a deep dish, with a cover. A table-spoonful of tarragon -mustard will improve the stew. - -When tomatos are in season, you can stew mutton or any other meat with -tomatos only--no water. Having prepared the meat, and laid it in the -stew-pan, cover it with tomatos, peeled and quartered. Add some sugar to -take off a portion of their acid, and a chopped onion. No water, as the -meat will cook in the liquid of the tomatos. They must stew till -thoroughly dissolved. - -Tender-loin beef steaks--or veal cutlets, may be stewed as above. - - -MUTTON CHOPS BROILED.--The best steaks are those cut from the loin, -about half an inch thick. Divest them of the bone, and remove the skin -and fat. Then butter them slightly all over, before cooking. This will -be found an improvement. The French go over them with salad oil, which -is still better. Sprinkle on them a little pepper and salt. Having -heated the gridiron well over a bed of very hot live coals, place it -somewhat aslant, grease its bars with a little of the mutton suet, and -lay on the steaks and broil them well; turning them three or four times, -and seeing that they are not scorched or burnt on the outside, and red -or raw when cut. Turn them with a knife and fork, or with steak-tongs, -an instrument with which every kitchen should be furnished. To cook them -well requires a clear glowing fire, without blaze or smoke. They should -be done in about a quarter of an hour. When you take them up, turn them -on a well-heated dish, and pour their gravy over them. - -If onions are liked, mince one as fine as possible, and strew it over -the steaks while broiling; or, boil and slice some onions, mix some -butter among them, season them with pepper, and a little powdered mace -or nutmeg, and serve them up with the meat on the same dish, or in a -sauce-boat. - - -MUTTON CHOPS WITH TOMATOS.--Broil some mutton steaks in the above -manner, and have ready some baked tomatos. When the steaks are dished, -lay on each a large baked tomato with the face downward, or cover each -steak with stewed tomato sauce. For baking, take fine ripe tomatos of -the largest size. Cut out a piece from the stem end, and extract the -seeds. Then stuff each tomato with grated bread-crumbs, butter, and -minced sweet marjoram, or finely minced onion. If you have any cold veal -or chicken, add a little of that to the stuffing, mincing it, of course. -Bake them in a dish by themselves. - -Or, you may send the steaks to table with a slice of fried egg-plant -laid upon each; buttered, and sprinkled with bread-crumbs. - - -MUTTON STEAKS FRIED.--Make a nice batter of grated bread-crumbs, milk -and beaten egg, and put it in a shallow pan. Prepare some fine steaks -cut from the loin, divested of fat, and with the bone cut short. Have -ready, in a hot frying-pan, some fresh butter or drippings. Dip each -steak twice over in the batter, then fry them brown. Send them to table -very hot. - -You may fry mutton chops like beef steaks, covered with onions, boiled, -drained, and sliced. - - -POTATO MUTTON CHOPS.--Cut some nice chops or steaks from the best end of -a neck of mutton. The loin will be still better. Trim off all the fat, -but leave a small part of the bone visible, nicely scraped. Season them -with pepper and salt, and fry them in butter or drippings. Have ready -plenty of mashed potatos with which cover the chops all over separately, -so as to wrap them up in the mashed potatos. Glaze them with beaten egg, -and brown them with a salamander or a red-hot shovel. This is a nice -breakfast dish. - - -KEBOBBED MUTTON.--This is an Asiatic dish, much approved by those who -have eaten it in Turkey or India, and it is certainly very good. Remove -the skin from a loin of mutton, and also the whole of the fat. Divide it -at every joint, cutting all the steaks apart, and making separate steaks -of the whole loin. Make a mixture of grated bread-crumbs, minced -sweet-herbs, a little salt and pepper, and some powdered nutmeg. Have -ready some beaten yolk of egg. Dip each steak into the egg then; twice -into the seasoning. Roll up each steak round a wooden skewer, and tie -them on a spit with packthread. Roast them before a clear fire, with a -dripping-pan under them to catch the gravy, which must be skimmed -frequently. They must be roasted slowly and carefully, taking care to -have them thoroughly cooked, even to the inmost of every roll. Baste -them with just butter enough to keep them moist. When done, carefully -take the kebobs from the skewers, and send them to table hot. Eat with -them large Spanish chestnuts, roasted and peeled; or else sweet potatos, -split, boiled, and cut into short pieces. Pour the gravy into the dish -under the kebobs. - -Instead of rolling up the kebobs, you may fasten them flat (after -seasoning,) with the same spit going through them all, and roast them in -that manner. They should all be of the same size and shape. To dish -them, lay them one upon another in an even pile. Eat mushroom sauce with -them, or any other sort that is very nice. - -Venison steaks are very good kebobbed in this manner, at the season when -venison can be had fresh, tender, and juicy. For sauce have stewed wild -grapes, mashed and made very sweet with brown sugar, or grape jelly, -which is still better; or, sauce made of fine cranberries, such as -abound in the north-west. - - -AN IRISH STEW.--Take three pounds of thick mutton cutlets from the loin, -and remove the fat. Slice thick five pounds of fine potatos that have -been previously pared. Place a layer of meat in the bottom of a -stew-pan, or an iron pot, and lay some of the potatos upon it. Season -all with salt and pepper. Upon this another layer of meat--then some -potatos again, then meat, and so on till all is in, finishing with -potatos at the top. Pour in a pint of cold water. Let it simmer gently -for two hours or more, till the meat and potatos are thoroughly done. -Serve it up very hot, meat and potatos, on the same dish. If approved, -you may add, from the beginning, one or two sliced onions. - -A similar stew may be made of beef steaks and potatos. - -You may stew pork cutlets in the same manner, but with _sweet_ potatos, -split and cut in long pieces, or with yams. The seasoning for the pork -should be minced sage. - -This is a very plain, but very good dish, if made of nice fresh meat and -good potatos, and well cooked. - - -LAMB.--The vein in the neck of the fore-quarter should be blueish, and -firm--otherwise do not buy it. If greenish or yellowish, it is tainted, -and fit only for manure. Never buy any thing that has been kept too -long. The worst may, by some process, be a little disguised, but nothing -can render wholesome any article of food in which decomposition has -commenced, even in the slightest degree. The fat should be quite white. -If there is but little meat on the shoulder it has not been a good lamb. -In America, where food is abundant, there is no occasion to eat any -thing, that has the flavor in the least changed by keeping. - -A fore-quarter of lamb comprises the shoulder, the neck, and the breast -together. The hind-quarter is the loin and leg. Lamb comes in season in -the beginning of April, if the spring is not unusually backward. - -Jersey lamb is sometimes garlicky early in the season. Avoid buying it; -you can easily tell it by the garlicky smell. It can only be rendered -eatable by stewing, or frying it with plenty of onions. To plain roast -or boil garlicky meat is in vain. Beef, also, is sometimes garlicky. - -Lamb may be cooked in every way that is proper for mutton. - - -ROAST LAMB.--The roasting pieces for lamb are the fore-quarter, and -hind-quarter; and the saddle, or both hind-quarters together, not having -been cut apart. If the saddle is cooked whole, it should be of a small -delicate lamb, nice and fat, and is then a fashionable dish at company -dinners. Like all other young meat lamb should always be thoroughly -done, not the least redness being left perceptible any where about it. A -hind-quarter of eight pounds will require at least two hours--a -fore-quarter, rather longer. It should be placed before a clear brisk -fire, but not very near at first. Put a little water in the -dripping-pan, and baste it with that till it begins to cook, adding a -little nice fresh butter. Then place it nearer the fire, and when the -gravy begins to fall, baste it with that, and repeat the basting very -frequently. When the lamb drops white gravy it is nearly done, and you -may prepare for taking it up. Skim the gravy that is in the dripping-pan -till all the fat is taken off. Then dredge over it a little flour, and -send it to table in a gravy boat, having stirred in one or two -table-spoonfuls of currant jelly. Lettuce is always an accompaniment to -cold lamb. - -In carving a fore-quarter of lamb it is usual to take off the shoulder -from the ribs, put in a slice of fresh butter, sprinkle it with a little -cayenne, and squeeze over the divided parts a fresh lemon cut in half; -and put, for that purpose, on a small plate beside the carver. - -The vegetables to be eaten with lamb are, new potatos, asparagus, green -peas, and spinach. Mint sauce is indispensable. French cooks seldom -understand how to make it. To do it properly, take a large bunch of -fresh green mint, wash it, and when you have shaken the wet from them, -mince the leaves very fine, omitting the stems. Put the leaves, when -chopped, into a small tureen or sauce-boat, and pour on a sufficient -quantity of the best cider vinegar to moisten the mint thoroughly, but -not to render it the least liquid or thin. It should be as thick as -horse-radish, prepared to eat with roast beef. Mix in sufficient sugar -to make it very sweet. Good brown sugar will do. At table put a -tea-spoonful on the side of your plate. Those who make mint sauce thin -and weak, and pour it over the meat like gravy, know nothing about it. - - -LAMB STEAKS.--Cut some nice cutlets or steaks (without any bone) from a -hind-quarter of lamb. Lay them in a stew pan, and season them with a -little salt and cayenne, adding some butter rolled in flour. Wash -carefully two fine fresh lettuces. Remove the outside leaves, quarter -the lettuces, and cut off all the stalks. Set the stew-pan, with the -meat, over a clear fire; and let it stew slowly till about half done. -Then put in the lettuce, covering the meat with it, and let them all -stew about half an hour longer. When done, take out the lettuces first. -Put them into a sieve or cullender, press out the water, and chop them -_large_. See if the meat is done all through. If it is, return the -stewed lettuce to the pot, season it with a little cayenne and some -salad oil, and add to it two or three hard-boiled eggs, chopped large. -Cover it, and let it stew five minutes longer. Serve it up on the same -dish. - - -LAMB CUTLETS.--Cut the cutlets from the loin and trim them nicely, -removing the skin, and most of the fat. Scrape the bone, and cut it -short. Grate plenty of stale bread, and mix it with some minced sweet -marjoram, seasoned with salt and pepper. Have ready a small deep dish of -light beaten egg, flavored with grated nutmeg and fresh lemon-peel, -grated fine, the thin yellow rind only. Put some nice lard or -beef-dripping into a hot frying-pan, and when the lard boils is the time -to put in the cutlets. Dip every cutlet separately into the beaten egg. -Then into the bread-crumbs, &c. Repeat this a second time both with the -egg and bread. The cutlets will be found much better for the double -immersion. Then lay them separately in the boiling lard, and fry them -well. One cutlet must not be laid on the top of another. When done, dish -them and send them to table very hot, with some currant jelly to mix -with the gravy. This is a fine breakfast dish or for a small dinner. - -Instead of frying, you may broil them. Dip each cutlet twice into the -egg and twice into the crumbs, and cover each with clean writing paper, -cut of a convenient shape, and secured with pins or packthread, the -paper being twisted round the end of the bone. Broil them in the papers, -which must be taken off before the cutlets go to table. - - -LAMB CHOPS, STEWED.--Cut a loin of lamb into chops or steaks, removing -the bone, or else sawing it very short. Trim off the skin and part of -the fat. Season the chops with a little pepper and salt, and fry them in -fresh butter till they are of a pale brown color. Then pour off the fat -and transfer the steaks to a stew-pan. Add enough boiling water to cover -them; and having seasoned them with some powdered nutmeg or some blades -of mace, add a pint of shelled green peas that have been already -parboiled, or a pint of the green tops of asparagus cut off after -boiling, and a fresh lettuce stripped of its outside leaves and stalks -and quartered. Finish with a small quarter of a pound of fresh butter -cut in pieces and rolled in flour, and laid among the vegetables. Let -them all stew together with the meat, for half an hour rather slowly. -Serve up all upon one large dish. It will make an excellent plain dinner -for a small family, with the addition of a dish or two of new potatos, -if they are in season. - -You may omit the lettuce, and add more peas and asparagus tops. - - -LARDED LAMB.--Cut off the fillet or round from a nice hind-quarter of -lamb, and remove the bone from the centre. Make a stuffing or forcemeat -of bread-crumbs, fresh butter, sweet marjoram, and sweet basil, minced -finely; the yellow rind of a fresh lemon, grated; and a tea-spoonful of -mixed nutmeg and mace, powdered. Fill with this stuffing the hole from -whence the bone was taken, and secure the flap round the side of the -meat, putting plenty of stuffing between. Then proceed to lard it. Cut a -number of long thin slips of the fat of ham, bacon, or corned pork. All -these slips must be of the same size. Take one at a time between the -points of the larding-needle, and draw it through the flat surface of -the top, or upper side of the meat, so as to leave one end of the ham -in, as you slip the other end out of the needle. Do this nicely, -arranging the slips of ham in regular form, and very near together. Put -the lamb into an iron oven, or bake-pan, with a small portion of lard or -fresh butter under it, and bake it thoroughly. When the meat is about -half done, put in a quart or more of nice green peas with sufficient -butter to cook them well. Serve up the lamb with the peas round it, on -the same dish. - -This is a dish for company. - - -LAMB PIE.--Remove the fat and bone from two pounds or more of nice lamb -steaks, or take some cutlets from the upper end of a leg of lamb, and -cut them into pieces about as large as the palm of your hand. Season -them with pepper and salt very slightly. Put them into a stew pot with a -_very little water_, and let them stew for half an hour or more. In the -mean time, make a nice paste, allowing half a pound of fresh butter to a -pound of flour. Mix with a broad knife half the butter with the flour, -adding gradually enough of cold water to make a dough. Roll out the -dough into a large thin sheet, and spread all over it with the knife the -remainder of the butter. Fold it, sprinkle it with a little flour, and -then divide it into two sheets, and roll out each of them. That intended -for the upper crust to be the thickest. Line with the under crust the -bottom and sides of a pie-dish. Put in the stewed lamb with its gravy. -Intersperse some blades of mace. Add some potatos, sliced, and some -sliced boiled turnips. Cover the meat thick with the green tops of -boiled asparagus, and lay among it a few bits of fresh butter. For -asparagus tops you may substitute boiled cauliflower seasoned with -nutmeg. Put on the paste-lid, closing the edges with crimping them -nicely. Cut a cross-slit on the top. Put the pie directly into the -oven, and bake it of a light brown. Serve it up hot. - - - - -VEAL. - - -VEAL.--Do not buy veal unless the vein in the shoulder looks blue or -bright red. If of any other color, the veal is not fresh. A calf's head -should have the eyes full and prominent. If they are dull and sunken, -the head is stale. The kidney should be well covered with firm white -fat. All the fat must be firm, dry, and white, and the lean fine in the -grain, and light colored. If any part is found clammy or discolored, do -not buy that veal. The best pieces of the calf are the loin and the -fillet. The loin consists of the best and the chump end; the hind -knuckle, and the fore knuckle. The inferior pieces are the neck, -blade-bone, and breast. The brisket end of a breast of veal is very -coarse, hard, and tough; the best end is rather better, having -sweet-bread belonging to it. - -Veal, like all other meat, should be well washed in cold water before -cooking. Being naturally the most tasteless and insipid of all meat, it -requires the assistance of certain articles to give it flavor. It is too -weak to make rich soup without various additions. But well cooked, it is -very nice as roasted loin, fillet, or fried cutlets. - - -ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.--Wash the meat well in cold water, wipe it dry, and -rub it slightly with mixed pepper and salt. Make a stuffing of bread -soaked in milk, or grated bread-crumbs, cold ham minced, sweet marjoram -minced, and the juice and yellow grated rind of a lemon; also, a little -fresh butter. Loosen with a sharp knife the skin, and put the stuffing -under it, skewering down the flap to keep it in. Put the veal to roast -before a strong clear fire, and pour a little water in the bottom of the -roaster. Baste it with this till the gravy begins to run. Then baste it -with that. Set the spit at first not very close to the fire, but bring -it nearer as the roasting proceeds. - -Send it to table with its own gravy, well skimmed and slightly thickened -with a little flour. - -Always choose a fine fresh loin of veal with plenty of fat about the -kidney. No meat spoils so soon. - -The breast and shoulder are roasted in the same manner as the loin, of -which two dishes may be made, the kidney end, and the chump end. - - -FILLET OF VEAL.--When a fillet is to be roasted or baked, let it be well -washed, and then dried in a clean towel. Take out the bone, fold the -flap round, and skewer it to the meat. Make plenty of forcemeat or -stuffing, of bread soaked in milk, or grated dry and mixed with plenty -of fresh butter, or some of the fat or suet finely minced. Season with -pepper, grated nutmeg, powdered mace, fresh lemon peel grated, and sweet -marjoram and sweet basil minced fine. The hole that contained the bone -must be stuffed full, and also the space between the flap and the side -of the meat. This should be secured by three skewers. Dredge the meat -all over lightly with flour before you put it down. At first, place the -spit at a distance from the fire, which should be strong and clear. -Then, as the meat begins to roast, set it nearer, and till the gravy -begins to fall, baste it with fresh butter, or lard. Just before it is -finished, (it will take about four hours,) dredge it with flour, and -baste it well with its own gravy. When the meat is dished, skim the -gravy, thicken it with a little flour, and pour it round the veal in the -dish, or serve it in a sauce-boat. - -A ham is the usual accompaniment to roast veal, whether fillet or loin. - - -ROAST VEAL HASHED.--Take whatever cold roast veal was left from -yesterday. To prepare it for a breakfast dish, cut it into small bits, -and put it (without any water) into a stew-pan, adding to it the veal -gravy that was left from yesterday, and a table-spoonful of fresh butter -or lard, dredged with flour. Cover it, and after stewing it half an hour -by itself, put in two large table-spoonfuls of well spiced tomato -catchup, an article no family should be without. After the catchup is -in, cover the hash again, and let it stew half an hour longer. If you -have no catchup, put in with the cold veal at the beginning, two or -three large ripe tomatos, peeled and quartered, or sliced, and seasoned -with powdered mace, nutmeg, and ginger; and let all stew together in -gravy or butter. Mushroom catchup is a good substitute for tomato in -hashing cold meat. If you have neither, put in a large table-spoonful of -tarragon or French mustard, to be bought in bottles at all the best -groceries. - -Cold roast venison is very good hashed as above. - - -VEAL A-LA-MODE.--Remove the bone from a fillet of veal, and make a large -quantity of forcemeat or stuffing of grated bread-crumbs; beef-suet or -veal-suet minced fine, the grated yellow rind and juice of a ripe lemon -or orange, or some chopped mushrooms that have been previously stewed, -some grated yolk of hard-boiled eggs, and some sweet marjoram. Press in -the stuffing, till the hole left by the bone is well filled; and also, -put stuffing between the flap and the side of the meat, before you -skewer the flap. Have ready some lardons or slips of cold ham, or -tongue, and with a larding pin draw them all through the surface of the -veal. Or else, make deep cuts or incisions throughout the meat, and -press down into each a small thin square bit of bacon-fat, seasoning -every one with a little of the stuffing. Lay the veal in a deep -baking-pan, or iron bake-oven. Surround it with nice lard, and bake it -till thoroughly done all through. Then take it out, skim the gravy, and -transfer it to a small sauce-pan. Stir in a dessert-spoonful of flour; -add a glass of white wine to the gravy, and give it one boil up. Send it -to table in a sauce-tureen, accompanying the veal. - - -TERRAPIN VEAL.--Take some nice veal, (from the fillet, or the loin) and -cut it into very small mouthfuls. Put it into a stew-pan. Have ready a -dressing made of six or seven hard-boiled eggs, minced fine, a small -tea-spoonful of made mustard, (tarragon or French mustard will be best,) -a salt-spoon of salt, and the same of cayenne; two glasses of sherry or -Madeira, and half a pint of rich cream. If you cannot conveniently -obtain cream, substitute a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided -into four pieces, and each piece dredged with flour. All the ingredients -for this dressing must be thoroughly mixed. Then, pour it over the veal, -and give the whole a hard stir. Cover it, and let it stew over the fire -for about ten minutes. Fresh venison is excellent, cooked in this -manner. So, also, are ducks, pheasants, partridges, or grouse, making a -fine side dish for company. - - -TO HASH COLD MEAT.--The best way of re-cooking cold roast meat, (veal, -beef, or pork,) is to hash it, cutting it into mouthfuls, and stewing -it in its own gravy, without a drop of water. For this purpose, save as -much as you can of the dripping or gravy that fell from it when -roasting. When you have done basting the roast meat, skim off all the -fat from the surface, and strain the gravy through a small sieve. What -is left of it, should be carefully set away in a cold place. Next day, -when it has congealed into a cake, scrape it with a knife on both sides. -If not wanted for immediate use, cut it in pieces, and put it up in a -jar well covered. Use it (instead of water) for stews and hashes; and if -well seasoned the meat will be found nearly as good (for a breakfast -dish,) as if not previously cooked. Whenever it is possible, make your -hashes without any water; and if you have saved no gravy, substitute -lard, or fresh butter. But gravy or drippings of the same meat is best. -A hash of cold meat, stewed merely in water, and with no seasoning but -salt and pepper, is a poor thing. Cold potatos, when re-cooked, always -remain hard and indigestible. In all cookery it is best to use _fresh -vegetables_, even if the _meat_ has been previously drest. Cold meat is -of no use for soups or pies. It is better to slice it, and eat it -cold--or, better still to give it the poor. Roast beef or mutton, if -very much underdone, may be sliced and broiled on a gridiron, and well -seasoned with pepper. Cold roast pork is best sliced plain, and eaten -cold. Ham also. - - -VEAL CUTLETS IN PAPERS (_en papillotes_.)--Make a nice sauce of sweet -herbs, bread-crumbs, powdered mace and nutmeg, butter and beaten egg. -Lay the cutlets in a deep dish, (having first broiled them and saved the -gravy,) pour the sauce over them, with the veal gravy added to it. Cover -them, and let them rest till cold. Allow, for each cutlet, a sheet of -foolscap paper, cut it into the shape of a heart, and go over it with -sweet oil, or fresh butter or lard. Lay a cutlet with a little of the -sauce upon it, on one-half of each sheet of paper; turn the other half -over the meat. Fold a narrow rim all round, so as to unite both edges. -Begin at the top of the heart, and pleat both edges together so as to -form a good shape without puckering. When you come to the bottom, where -the paper is to cover the bone, give it a few extra twists. Broil the -cutlets slowly on a gridiron for half an hour, seeing that no blaze -catches the papers--or put them in the oven for half an hour. If the -papers are not too much burnt or disfigured, dish the cutlets still -wrapped in them, to be removed by those who eat them. If the covers are -scorched black, and ragged, take out the cutlets and lay them on a hot -dish. Serve up with them a dish of mashed potatos or potatoe cake, -browned on the surface with a salamander. _Côtelettes à la Maintenon_, -are mutton or lamb steaks cooked in papers, in the above manner. - - -VEAL STEAKS.--Cut the steaks from the neck, leaving the bone very short, -and polishing what there is of it. Make a seasoning of boiled onions -minced, and sage or sweet marjoram leaves, or of chopped parsley. Lay on -each steak a bit of fresh butter, spread the seasoning thickly over -each, and fry them in the gravy or drippings of cold roast veal or beef. -They will be the better for beating them slightly with a rolling pin. -Put into the frying-pan three or four table-spoonfuls of mushroom or -tomato catchup; or, fry them with fresh mushrooms or fresh tomatos, -sliced. - - -VEAL CUTLETS.--Cut your veal cutlets from the fillet or round about half -an inch thick. Season them slightly with a little salt and cayenne. Have -ready a pan with grated bread-crumbs, and another with beaten egg. Have -ready, in a frying pan, plenty of boiling lard, or drippings of cold -veal. Dredge each cutlet slightly with flour; then dip it twice in the -pan of beaten egg, and then twice also in the bread-crumbs. Fry them -well, and send them to table in their own gravy. Saffron, scattered -thickly over them while frying, is an improvement much relished by the -eaters. - -Veal is too insipid to be fried or broiled plain. - -If you live where cream is plenty, add to this fry two or three -spoonfuls. - -Minced veal, cold, is an excellent ingredient for forcemeats. - - -KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND BACON.--Unless your family is very small, get two -knuckles of veal, and have them sawed into three pieces each. Put them -into a pot with two pounds of ham or bacon; cover them with water, and -stew them slowly, skimming them well. Season them with a little pepper, -but no salt, as the bacon will be salt enough. When the scum ceases to -rise, put in four onions and four turnips, and six potatos pared, and -quartered; also, a carrot and two parsnips, scraped and cut into pieces. -Let the whole boil till all the meat and all the vegetables are -thoroughly done, and very tender. Drain them well, and serve up the -whole on one large dish, having other vegetables served separately. - -If you wish to have green vegetables, such as greens, young sprouts, -poke, or string beans, flavored with bacon, put them to boil in a pot -with the bacon only, and take another pot for the veal, and white -vegetables, such as onions, turnips, &c. You may put the veal and bacon -on the same dish. - - -SOUTHERN STEW (_of veal_.)--Peel and boil a half dozen fresh spring -onions, and then drain them well and slice them thin. Have ready two -pounds or more of nice veal, sliced very thin, small, and evenly. Lay -the veal in a stew-pan, and season it slightly with salt, and _a very -little_ cayenne. Cover the veal with the sliced onions, and lay upon -them some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. If you cannot obtain -very excellent fresh butter, substitute lard, or cold gravy, or -dripping of roast veal, which last will be best if you have enough of -it. Finish with a flavoring of powdered nutmeg or mace, and the grated -yellow rind of a fresh lemon. - -This stew is very nice. It may be made with lamb or chicken, cut very -small. - - -VEAL KEBOBBED, (_or kibaubed_.)--Cut into small thin slices some lean -veal from the loin, chump end, or fillet. Trim them into a round or -circular form. Season them with pepper, salt, and turmeric or curry -powder. If onions are liked, slice some large ones, and lay them on the -pieces of veal. Cover them with slices of ham, cut round like the veal, -but a little smaller. Roll up the slices, (the ham inside,) and tie them -on skewers. Then roast or bake them. When done, take them off the -skewers, and send them to table in the gravy that has fallen from them. -This is a Turkish dish, and is much liked. - - -VEAL FRITTERS.--Take some thin slices of cold roast veal, and trim them -round or circular. Beat them with a rolling-pin, to make them very -tender, and season them with a little salt and pepper and some powdered -nutmeg. Also some grated fresh yellow rind of lemon-peel. Make a very -light batter, of eggs, milk, and flour; in the proportion of four -well-beaten eggs to a pint of milk; and a large half pint of sifted -flour: the eggs beaten first, and then stirred gradually into the milk -in turn with the flour. Have ready a frying-pan, nearly full of boiling -lard. Drop into it two large spoonfuls of the batter. Then put in a -slice of the veal, and cover it with two more large spoonfuls of the -batter. As the fritters are fried, take them up with a perforated -skimmer, and drain them. - - -VEAL PATTIES.--Mince very fine, some cold roast veal, or some cold -chicken, mixing with it some cold minced ham, or cold smoked tongue. Add -some yolk of hard-boiled eggs, crumbled or minced. Season the mixture -with powdered mace and nutmeg, moistened with cream or soft fresh -butter. Have ready some nice puff-paste, rolled out thin, and cut into -oval or circular pieces. Cover the half of each with the mixture, spread -on evenly and thickly. Then, upon that, fold over the other half, -(uniting both,) and crimp them together, in very small notches. Brush -their outsides all over with some raw egg, slightly beaten, and lay them -in large square tin pans to bake. Send them to table on china dishes. - -These patties are excellent made of cold game. The green tops of boiled -asparagus will improve the mixture. - - -FRIED LIVER.--Put into a frying-pan some nice thin slices of ham or -bacon, that have soaked all night, and fry them in their own fat. Have -ready your calf's liver, cut into slices not too thin, as that will -render them hard. Take out the ham as soon as it is done, put it into a -hot dish, and cover it closely. Lay the slices of liver into the gravy -of the bacon that is left in the frying-pan, sprinkling it well with -chopped parsley. It must be thoroughly done. Then dish with the bacon. - -To those who like them, some onions will be thought an improvement to -fried liver. First parboil the onions: then slice them, season them with -a little salt and pepper, and fry them with the liver. - -If lettuces are in season, quarter a fresh one, and lay it under the -liver when you dish it, having previously removed the thickest part of -the stalk. The liver of beef or sheep is not seen at good tables. It is -very inferior to that of calf's, being hard and coarse. - - -LARDED LIVER.--Wash and drain a nice fat calf's liver. Liver of beef or -mutton is never seen at a good table; they are hard, coarse, and -tasteless, and only eaten by the poor, while the livers of veal and -poultry are considered very nice. Divide it into equal portions. Lard -them thickly with small slips of fat bacon, inserted at regular -distances with a larding-needle, and very near each other. Season the -liver with powdered nutmeg and mace. Put into a stew-pan, in the bottom -of which you have laid a large slice or two of fat bacon. Let it stew -gently, till thoroughly done and tender throughout. When you take the -liver out of the stew-pan, stir into the gravy left at the bottom, some -thick catchup, either mushroom or tomato. Do not send the slices of -bacon to table with the liver. - -If liked, surround the liver while cooking, with small button onions, -(peeled and washed,) and see that they are well done. Serve them up on -the same dish. It is best always to boil onions before frying them. - - -STEWED LIVER.--Having soaked a fine calf's liver for two hours in cold -water, cut it into thick slices, and then cut the slices into mouthfuls. -Chop fine a small bunch of sweet marjoram, and sprinkle it among the -liver, seasoning with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and powdered mace. Put it -into a stew-pan, and cook it in lard or fresh butter. Make some nice -toast, and dip it for a minute in hot water, having pared off all the -crust. Lay the toast in the bottom of a deep dish, after covering it all -over with the stewed liver. - - -LIVER RISSOLES.--Take a calf's liver, and remove carefully all the -veins. Weigh a pound of it, boil it, and when cold, mince it very finely -with a quarter of a pound of suet, either of beef or veal. Add a quarter -of a pound of finely grated bread-crumbs. Season it with cayenne, -powdered mace, and nutmeg, and a very little salt. Mix in two -well-beaten eggs. Shape them into oval forms, about the size of large -walnuts, and fry them in plenty of boiling hot lard, draining them all -on a perforated skimmer, before they go to table. - - -LIVER PIE.--Prepare a fine fresh calf's liver. Split it in long pieces. -Lay it in a pan of cold water for an hour or two. Afterwards take it out -and wipe it dry, and boil it till tender. Drain it when done, and chop -it large with a slice of cold ham. Season it with pepper and nutmeg, (no -salt for any thing that has ham in it,) and add some minced sweet -marjoram and sweet basil, and two yolks of hard-boiled eggs, grated or -minced. The grated yellow rind of a fresh lemon will be an improvement. -Make a very nice light paste, and line a pie dish with it. Then fill it -high with the mixture, laying on the top several pieces of fine fresh -butter. Cover it with a lid of paste, notching the edges handsomely, and -cutting a cross-slit on the top. Bake it light brown, and serve it up, -either hot or cold. It will be found very nice. - -With the same mixture you may make liver dumplings, enclosing them in a -nice paste, and boiling them; or a liver pudding, boiling the mixture in -one large paste, and tying it in a cloth, leaving room for it to swell. - - -CHITTERLINGS OR CALF'S TRIPE.--This is very delicate and digestible, and -is nice at breakfast, or as a side dish at dinner. To prepare it for -cooking, it should be cut open with scissors, emptied, and thoroughly -cleaned, and then laid all night, or for several hours, in cold water, -_slightly_ salted. It can be bought of the veal butchers ready prepared, -and run on a wooden skewer. Wash it again just before cooking. Cut it -into small pieces, and boil it slowly till _quite_ tender, in water -enough to keep it well covered. When entirely done, take it up, drain -it, and keep it warm. Have ready some onions boiled in milk till quite -soft, and sliced thin. Melt some excellent fresh butter, in milk -thickened with flour. Make a round of very nice toast, with the crust -pared off. Dip it for a minute in hot water; lay it in the bottom of a -deep dish. Cover it thickly with the onion sauce, and place the -chitterlings upon it, seasoning them with pepper and vinegar. It will be -an improvement to boil with them four or five blades of mace. Eat -vinegar with it, always. Tarragon vinegar is best. This dish deserves to -be more in use. Try it. - - -FRIED CHITTERLINGS.--Get chitterlings ready prepared by the butcher. -Wash them, and let them lie an hour or two in weak salt and water. Then -drain them, cut them in pieces, and parboil them. Dry them in a clean -cloth. Make a batter of two or three beaten eggs, and a pint of milk, -with a heaped table-spoonful of flour. Put into a frying-pan an ample -portion of the dripping of roast veal or pork, and when it boils, -(having first dipped each piece of the chitterling into the batter,) fry -them in the dripping. They must be thoroughly done. You may fry them in -lard, or fresh butter. - -This is a nice breakfast dish. - - -BAKED CHITTERLINGS.--Having first parboiled the chitterlings, lay among -them some bits of fresh butter, season them with powdered nutmeg, put -them into a deep dish, set it into an oven, and bake them brown. - -This is a side dish at dinner. - - -FINE VEAL PIE.--Boil, in two quarts of water, two unskinned calf's feet, -adding the yellow rind of a large lemon, pared as thin as possible, or -grated, and its squeezed juice. Also, two broken-up sticks of cinnamon, -half a dozen blades of mace, and two glasses of sweet wine. Boil all -these together (skimming well,) till the calf's feet are in rags, and -all their flesh has dropped from the bone. Then put the whole into a -jelly-bag and let it drip into a broad bowl. Set it away closely -covered. Have ready two pounds of the parboiled chump end of a loin of -veal cut into square pieces. Make a nice puff paste, and line with it a -deep pie-dish. Put the pieces of veal into it, (all the fat cut off,) -and intersperse them with a dozen or more forcemeat balls, each about as -large as an English walnut. The balls may be made of cold minced chicken -and ham, minced suet, bread-crumbs, and hard-boiled yolk of egg grated -or crumbled fine; seasoned with sweet herbs, and grated lemon rind. Or -they may be sweet balls of bread-crumbs, butter, chopped sultana -raisins, and chopped citron, seasoned with nutmeg. Having dispersed them -among the pieces of veal, put in the jelly made from the calf's feet. -Cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste, cut a cross slit in the centre; -notch the edges, and bake it brown. This pie is for a company dish. - - -A PLAIN VEAL PIE.--Cut the meat from an uncooked breast of veal, and -stew it in a very little water. Have ready a pie dish lined with a nice -paste. Put in a layer of stewed veal, with its gravy, and cover it with -a layer of sausage meat; then veal again, and then sausage meat. Repeat -this till the dish is full, finishing with the sausage. Cover it with a -lid of paste, and bake it brown. This is a cheap and easy family pie. - - -VEAL LOAF.--Take a cold fillet of veal, and (omitting the fat and skin) -mince the meat as fine as possible. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of -the fattest part of a cold ham, also chopped small. Add a tea-cupful of -grated bread-crumbs; a grated nutmeg; half a dozen blades of mace, -powdered; the grated yellow rind of a lemon; and two beaten eggs. Season -with a salt-spoon of salt, and half a salt-spoon of cayenne. Mix the -whole well together, and make it into the form of a loaf. Then glaze it -over with beaten yolk of egg; and strew the surface evenly, all over, -with bread raspings, or with pounded cracker. Set the dish into a -dutch-oven, and bake it half an hour, or till hot all through. Have -ready a gravy made of the trimmings of the veal, stewed in some of the -gravy that was left when the fillet was roasted the day before. When -sufficiently cooked, take out the meat, and thicken the gravy with -beaten yolk of egg, stirred in about three minutes before you take it -from the fire. - -Send the veal loaf to table, in a deep dish, with the gravy poured round -it. - -Chicken loaf, or turkey loaf, may be made in this manner. - - -STEWED CALF'S HEAD.--Take a fine, large calf's head; empty it; wash it -clean, and boil it till it is quite tender, in just water enough to -cover it. Then carefully take out the bones, without spoiling the -appearance of the head. Season it with a little salt and cayenne, and a -grated nutmeg. Pour over it the liquor in which it has been boiled, -adding a jill of vinegar, and two table-spoonfuls of capers, or of green -nasturtion seeds, that have been pickled. Let it stew very slowly for -half an hour. Have ready some forcemeat balls made of minced veal-suet, -grated bread-crumbs, grated lemon-peel, and sweet marjoram,--adding -beaten yolk of egg to bind the other ingredients together. Put in the -forcemeat balls, and stew it slowly a quarter of an hour longer, adding -some bits of butter rolled in flour to enrich the gravy. Send it to -table hot. - - -EXCELLENT MINCED VEAL.--Take three or four pounds of the lean only of a -fillet or loin of veal, and mince it very finely, adding a slice or two -of cold ham, minced also. Add two or three small young onions, chopped -small, a tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram leaves rubbed from the stalks, -the yellow rind of a small lemon grated, and a tea-spoonful of mixed -mace and nutmeg powdered. Mix all well together, and dredge it with a -little flour. Put it into a stew-pan, with sufficient gravy of cold -roast veal to moisten it, and a large table-spoonful or more of fresh -butter. Stir it well, and let it stew till thoroughly done. If the veal -has been previously cooked, a quarter of an hour will be sufficient. It -will be much improved by adding a pint or more of small button -mushrooms, cut from the stems, and then chopped small. Also, by stirring -in two table-spoonfuls of cream about five minutes before it is taken -from the fire. - - -VEAL WITH OYSTERS.--Take two fine cutlets of about a pound each. Divide -them into several pieces, cut thin. Put them into a frying-pan, with -boiling lard, and let them fry awhile. When the veal is almost done, add -to it a pint of large, fine oysters,--their liquor thickened with a few -grated bread-crumbs, and seasoned with mace and nutmeg powdered. -Continue the frying till the veal and oysters are thoroughly done. Send -it to table in a covered dish. - - -TERRAPIN VEAL.--Take some cold roast veal, (the fillet or the loin) and -cut it into mouthfuls. Put it in a skillet or stew-pan. Have ready a -dressing made of six or seven hard-boiled eggs, minced fine; a small -tea-spoonful of tarragon mustard; a salt-spoonful of salt; and the same -of cayenne pepper; a large tea-cupful (half a pint) of cream, and two -glasses of sherry or Madeira wine. The dressing must be thoroughly -mixed. Pour it over the veal, and then give the whole a hard stir. Cover -it, and let it stew over the fire for ten minutes. Then transfer it to a -deep dish, and send it to table hot. - -Cold roast duck or fowl may be drest as above. Also, venison. - - -VEAL OLIVES.--Take some cold fillet of veal and cold ham, and cut them -into thin square slices of the same size and shape, trimming the edges -evenly. Lay a slice of veal on every slice of ham, and spread some -beaten yolk of egg over the veal. Have ready a thin forcemeat, made of -grated bread-crumbs, sweet marjoram rubbed fine, fresh butter, and -grated lemon-peel, seasoned with nutmeg and a little cayenne pepper. -Spread this over the veal, and then roll up each slice tightly with the -ham. Tie them round securely with coarse thread or fine twine; run a -bird-spit through them, and roast them well. For sauce, simmer in a -small sauce-pan, some cold veal gravy with two spoonfuls of cream, and -some mushroom catchup. - - -VEAL RISSOLES.--Take as much fine wheat bread as will weigh one pound, -after all the crust is cut off. Slice it; put it into a pan and pour -over it as much rich milk as will soak it thoroughly. After it has -soaked a quarter of an hour, lay it in a sieve and press it dry. Mince -as finely as possible a pound of veal cutlet with six ounces of veal -suet; then mix in gradually the bread; adding a salt-spoonful of salt, a -slight sprinkling of cayenne, and a small tea-spoonful of powdered mace -and nutmeg mixed; also the yellow rind of a lemon grated. Beat two eggs, -and moisten the mixture with them. Then divide it into equal portions, -and with a little flour on your hands roll it into oval balls rather -smaller than an egg. Strew over them some dry bread-crumbs; then fry -them in lard or fresh butter--drain them well, and send them to table -hot. For gravy (which should be commenced before the rissoles) put some -bits and trimmings of veal into a small sauce-pan, with as much water as -will cover them; a very little pepper and salt; and three or four blades -of mace. Cover the sauce-pan closely, and let the meat stew till all the -strength is extracted; skimming it well. Then strain it; return the -liquor to the sauce-pan; add a bit of butter rolled in flour; and -squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Give it a boil up, and then, at the -last, stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. Serve up this gravy in a -sauce-boat, to eat with the rissoles. - -Instead of stewing meat for the purpose, you may make this gravy with -the drippings of roast veal saved from the day before. You have then -only to melt it over the fire; adding the seasoning; and giving it one -boil. - -Similar rissoles may be made of minced chicken or turkey. - - -TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS.--The sweetbread belonging to the breast of the -calf is far superior to that which is found about the throat, being -larger, whiter, more tender, and more delicate. Always buy them in -preference. They should be set immediately on ice, and prepared for -cooking as speedily as possible, for they spoil very soon. Soak them in -warm water till all the blood is discharged. Then put them into boiling -water, and boil them five minutes. After this, lay them immediately in a -pan of very cold water. This sudden transition from hot water to cold, -will blanch or whiten them. Dark-colored sweetbreads make a very bad -appearance. Four are generally sufficient for a small dish. But as, if -well cooked, they are much liked, it is best to have six; or else eight -upon two dishes. If the sweetbreads are to be cut up before cooking, -remove and throw away the gristle or pipe that pervades every one. If -they are to be cooked whole, you may leave the pipe in, to be taken out -by the eaters. - -For company, it is usual to lard sweetbreads with slips of fat ham or -bacon, or of cold smoked tongue. - -Sweetbreads are used as side-dishes at dinners, or at nice breakfasts. - - -SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.--Having trimmed some sweetbreads nicely, and -removed the gristle, parboil them, and then mince them very fine. Add -grated bread, and season with a very little salt and pepper; some -powdered mace and nutmeg; and some grated lemon-rind. Moisten the whole -with cream, and make them up into small cones or sugar-loaves; forming -and smoothing them nicely. Have ready some beaten egg, mixed with grated -bread-crumbs. Dip into it each croquette, and fry them slowly in fresh -butter. Serve them hot; standing up on the dish, and with a sprig of -parsley in the top of each. - -Sweetbreads should never be used unless perfectly fresh. They spoil very -rapidly. As soon as they are brought from market they should be split -open, and laid in cold water. Never attempt to keep sweetbreads till -next day, except in cold weather; and then on ice. - -Similar croquettes may be made of cold boiled chicken; or cold roast -veal; or of oysters, minced raw, and seasoned and mixed as above. - - -FRICASSEED SWEETBREADS.--Take half a dozen sweetbreads; clean them -thoroughly, and lay them for an hour or two in a pan of water, having -first removed the strings and gristle. Then put them into a stew-pan -with as much rich milk or cream as will cover them well, and a very -little salt. Stew them slowly, till tender throughout, and thoroughly -done, saving the liquid. Then take them up; cover them; and set them -near the fire to keep warm. Prepare a quarter of a pound of butter, -divided into four pieces, and rolled in flour. Put the butter into the -milk in which the sweetbreads were boiled, and add a few sprigs of -parsley cut small; five or six blades of mace; half a nutmeg grated; and -a very little cayenne pepper. Have ready the yolks of three eggs -well-beaten. Return the sweetbreads to the gravy; let it just come to a -boil; and then stir in the beaten egg _immediately before_ you take the -fricassee from the fire, otherwise it will curdle. Serve it up in a deep -dish with a cover. - -Chickens, cut up, may be fricasseed in this manner. - - -TOMATO SWEETBREADS.--Cut up a quarter of a peck (or more) of fine ripe -tomatos; set them over the fire, and let them stew with nothing but -their own juice, till they go entirely to pieces. Then press them -through a sieve, to clear the liquid from the seeds and skins. Have -ready four or five sweetbreads that have been trimmed nicely, cleared -from the gristle, and laid open to soak in warm water. Put them into a -stew-pan with the tomato-juice, seasoned with a little salt and cayenne. -Add two or three table-spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour. Set the -sauce-pan over the fire, and stew the sweetbreads in the tomato-juice -till they are thoroughly done. A few minutes before you take them off, -stir in two beaten yolks of eggs Serve up the sweetbreads in a deep -dish, with the tomato poured over them. - - -SWEETBREADS AND CAULIFLOWERS.--Take four large sweetbreads, and two fine -cauliflowers. Split open the sweetbreads and remove the gristle. Soak -them awhile in lukewarm water. Then put them into a sauce-pan of boiling -water, and let them boil ten minutes over the fire. Afterwards, lay them -in a pan of very cold water. The parboiling will render them white; and -putting them directly from the hot water into the cold will give them -firmness. Having washed and drained the cauliflowers, quarter them, and -lay them in a broad stew-pan with the sweetbreads upon them, seasoned -with a very little cayenne, four or five blades of mace, and some -nutmeg. Add as much water as will cover them; put on closely the lid of -the pan, and let the whole stew for about an hour. Then take a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter, and roll it in two table-spoonfuls of flour. -Add it to the stew with a tea-cupful of rich milk or cream, and give it -one boil up, not more, or the milk may curdle. Serve it hot in a deep -dish; the sweetbreads in the middle with the gravy poured over them, and -the quartered cauliflowers laid handsomely round. This stew will be -found delicious. - -Broccoli may be thus stewed with sweetbreads. - - -SWEETBREAD OMELET.--For an omelet of six or seven eggs, take two fine -sweetbreads. Split them, take out the gristle, and soak them in two -lukewarm waters, to extract all the blood. Then put them into very hot -water, boil them ten minutes, take them out, set them away to cool, and -afterwards mince them small, and season them with _a very little salt_ -and cayenne pepper, and some grated nutmeg. Beat the eggs (omitting the -whites of two) till very light. Then mix in the chopped sweetbreads. Put -three ounces or more of fresh butter into a small frying-pan, and place -it over the fire. Stir the butter with a spoon, as it melts, and when it -comes to a boil put in the mixture, stirring it awhile after it is all -in. Fry it a rich brown. Heat the plate or dish in which you turn it out -of the pan. An omelet should never be turned while frying. The top may -be well browned by holding above it a salamander or red-hot shovel. - -If you wish it very thick, have _three_ sweetbreads. - -While frying the omelet, lift the edge occasionally by slipping a -knife-blade under it, that the butter may get well underneath. - -If omelets are cooked too much they will become tough, and leather-like. -Many persons prefer having them sent to table as _soft omelets_, before -they have set, or taken the form of a cake. In this case, serve up the -omelet in a deep dish, and help it with a spoon. - - -SWEETBREADS AND OYSTERS.--Take four sweetbreads, and when they have been -soaked and blanched, quarter them, and remove the pipe. Strain the -liquor from three dozen large fresh oysters, season it with powdered -nutmeg and mace, and a little cayenne. Put the quartered sweetbreads -into a stew-pan, and pour over them enough of the oyster-liquor to cover -them well, adding, if you have it, three large spoonfuls of the gravy of -roast veal, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut into four -bits; each bit rolled or dredged in flour. When the sweetbreads are -done, put in the oysters, (first removing their gristle or hard part,) -and take them out again as soon as they are plumped, which should be in -five minutes. If allowed to boil, the oysters will shrivel, and become -hard and tasteless. Add, at the last, two wine-glasses of cream, and -shake the pan about, for a few minutes. Serve up in a deep dish. - - -SWEETBREAD PIES.--Make shells of puff-paste, and bake them empty. When -done, fill them to the top with the above mixture. Have ready a lid for -each pie, baked on a flat plate, and lay it on the top of the filling. - - -STEWED SWEETBREADS.--After blanching them, extract the pipe very -carefully, and fill its place with a stuffing made of cold minced -chicken or veal, minced ham or tongue sweet marjoram, nutmeg, grated -lemon-peel, and the crumbled yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Fasten the -openings with small wooden skewers, and put the sweetbreads into a broad -stew-pan with a thin slice of ham under each, and another on the top of -each, kept in place by a splinter-skewer. Stew the sweetbreads in the -gravy of roast veal, and before you send them to table take out the -skewers. - -Or make a gravy of uncooked trimmings of veal or beef, stewed slowly in -as much water as will cover them well, and seasoned with pepper and -salt--or, stew with the fresh meat, as much ham or bacon as will flavor -the gravy, (using no other salt.) When all the essence is extracted from -the meat, stir in a bit of butter dredged with flour. The flour for -gravies should be browned. Strain the gravy, and add any other flavoring -you like. - -To brown flour, spread it evenly on a large dish or flat tin, and place -it before the fire, or in a rather cool oven. Scrape it up from the -edges where it will get the brownest. Take care it burns or blackens -nowhere. Keep it for use in a dry tin box. - - -BAKED SWEETBREADS.--Parboil four large sweetbreads, having first -blanched them. When cold, lard them all over the surface, with slips of -bacon the size of small straws. Lay them in a shallow pan, putting under -each sweetbread a piece of nice fresh butter with a very little flour -mixed into it. Pour into the pan a glass of nice white wine, mixed with -the juice and grated yellow rind of a lemon. Season also with grated -nutmeg. Or for sauce, you may use mushroom catchup, with a little salad -oil stirred into it. - -If you do not live in a place where nice fresh butter is to be obtained, -endeavor to do without butter at all, rather than use that which is -strong, rancid, or too salt. Bad butter tastes through every -thing--spoils every thing, and is also extremely unwholesome, as -decomposition (or in plain terms _putrefaction_,) has already commenced. -Rather than use what makes all your food taste worse instead of better, -try to substitute something else--such as beef or fresh pork drippings, -suet, lard, or olive oil; or, molasses, honey, or stewed fruit. _We -know_ that with these it is possible to live in health for years, -without tasting butter. Nevertheless, good butter is a good thing, and -an improvement to all sorts of cookery. - - - - -PORK. - - -PORK.--Young pork has a thin rind or skin, easily indented by pressing -with the finger, and the lean will break by pinching. If fresh, the meat -is smooth and dry; but if damp and clammy, it is tainted. If the fat is -rough with little kernels, the pig has had a disease resembling the -measles, and to eat it is poisonous. Pigs that have short legs, and -thick necks, are the best. Pigs fed entirely on slop make very bad pork. -They should be kept up for at least two months, fed with corn, and not -allowed during the time of fattening to eat any sort of trash. No animal -tastes more of its food than a pig. If allowed to eat the garbage of -fish, they will not only have a fishy taste, but a smell of fish so -intolerable, when cooking, that such pork cannot be endured in the -house. During the two months that they are kept up to fatten, all their -food must be wholesome as well as abundant, and it does them much good -to have soap-suds given to them occasionally. Let them have plenty of -corn, and plenty of fresh water. They will thrive better and make finer -pork, if their pens are not allowed to be dirty. No animal actually -likes dirt, and even pigs would be clean if they knew how. It is very -beneficial to young pigs to wash them well in soap and water. We have -seen this often done with great care. - -The pork in Spain and Portugal is delicious, from being fed chiefly on -the large chestnuts, of which there is great abundance in those -countries. These pigs are short-legged and thick-bodied--a profitable -species. The best pieces of a pig are the hind-leg and loin; the next is -the shoulder, or fore-leg. The spare-rib, (pronounced sparrib by the -English,) affords so little meat, and the bones are so tedious to pick, -that it is seldom seen on good American tables, nothing being popular -with us that cannot be eaten fast or fastish. - -Pork must be thoroughly cooked; done well, and completely to the very -bone. Who ever asked for a slice of pork _done rare_? Who could eat pork -with the blood appearing, when served? So it is with veal. Underdone -veal, or underdone chicken, is not to be thought of without disgust. - -Pork, for boiling, is always previously salted or corned. Fresh pork, -however, is very good _stewed_ or cooked slowly in a very little water, -and with plenty of vegetables in the same pot. The vegetables should be -potatos, (either sweet or white,) pared and cut into pieces--parsnips -the same, or yams in thick slices. For corned pork cook the vegetables -separately from the meat, or they will taste too salt and fat. They -should be cabbage, or green sprouts, green beans or peas, green corn, -young poke, squash, pumpkin, or cashaw, (winter squash,) boiled, mashed, -and squeezed. - -For salt pork, in winter, have dried beans or dried peas; first boiled, -and then baked. - - -TO ROAST PORK.--The roasting pieces are the loin, the leg, the saddle, -the fillet, the shoulder and the spare-rib, (which last is found between -the shoulder or fore-leg,) and the griskin or back-bone. All roast pork -should be well seasoned; rubbed with pepper, salt, or powdered sage or -marjoram. Score the skin with a sharp knife, making deep lines at -regular distances, about an inch apart. Cross these lines with others, -so as to form squares or diamonds. Make a stuffing of minced sage or -marjoram leaves; bread-crumbs; if liked, a very little minced onion -previously boiled; and some powdered mace. Introduce this stuffing -profusely wherever it can be inserted, loosening a piece of the skin, -and fastening it down again with a small skewer. In a leg or shoulder -you can put in a great deal at the knuckle. In a fillet or large end of -the leg, stuff the place from whence you have taken the bone. Put the -pork down to roast not very close to the fire, but place it nearer when -the skin begins to brown. You can soon baste it with its own gravy; and -see that it is thoroughly cooked, before removing it from the spit. -After taking up the meat, skim the fat from the gravy, and stir in a -little flour to thicken it. - -The crackling or skin will be much more crisp and tender if you go all -over it with sweet oil, or lard, before you put it to the fire. - -Always accompany roast pork with apple sauce, served in a deep dish or a -sauce-tureen. - -Cold roast pork is very good sliced at tea or breakfast. - - -SWEET POTATO PORK.--Boil, peel, and mash a sufficiency of sweet potatos, -moistened with butter and egg. Cover with them the bottom of a deep -dish; then put on a layer of slices of fresh pork, sprinkled with minced -sage or marjoram. Next, another thick layer of mashed sweet potatos; -then another layer of pork cutlets, and so on till the dish is full, -finishing with mashed sweet potatos. Bake it brown on the surface. - - -CHESTNUT PORK.--Where the large Spanish chestnuts abound, a similar dish -may be made of layers of chestnuts boiled, peeled, and mashed, and -layers of fresh pork in thin slices. - - -ROASTED SPARE-RIB.--This will do for a second dish at the table of a -very small family. Rub it all over with powdered sage, pepper, and salt, -and having put it on the spit, lay the thickest end to the fire. Dredge -it with powdered sage and baste it with a little butter. When dished, -have ready some mashed potatos made into flat cakes, and browned on the -top, and laid all round the pork, with some in another dish. Send to -table apple sauce also. - -When apples are difficult to procure, substitute dried peaches, stewed -very soft, and in no more water than remains about them after being -washed. Sweeten them while hot, as soon as you take them from the fire, -mashing them smoothly. - - -TO DRESS A YOUNG PIG.--The pig should not be more than three weeks old. -If not fat, it is unfit to eat. To be in perfection, a sucking pig -should be eaten the day it is killed, or its goodness and tenderness is -impaired every hour. It requires great care in roasting, and constant -watching. The custom of _roasting_ a very young pig has now gone much, -into disuse, it being found that baking answers the purpose equally -well or better, and is far less troublesome. - -The pig should be washed perfectly clean, inside and out, and wiped very -dry. Have ready a stuffing made of slices of bread, thickly buttered and -soaked in milk, seasoned with powdered nutmeg and mace, and the grated -yellow rind of a lemon, with the _hard-boiled_ yolk of an egg, crumbled, -and a large handful, or more, of fine bloom raisins, seeded and cut in -half, mix all these ingredients well, and fill with them the body of the -pig, sewing it up afterwards. Or you may make a plain stuffing of -chopped sage and onions, boiled together, with marjoram; and mixed with -bread-crumbs and butter. Having trussed the pig, with the fore-legs bent -back, and the hind-legs forward, rub it _all over_ with sweet oil, or -with fresh butter tied in a rag. Lay it in a baking-pan, with a little -water in the bottom. Then set it in an oven, not too hot, and bake it -well, basting it frequently with butter. When done, dish it whole. Skim -the gravy in the pan, and mix in some flour. Give it one boil up, having -first put into it the chopped liver and heart of the pig, taken out -after it was cooked, and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. - -The practice is now obsolete of dissecting a pig before it goes to -table, splitting it down the back, and down the front, and laying the -two halves in reverse positions, or back to back, with one half the -split head at each side, and one ear at each end, the brains being taken -out to enrich the gravy. All these disgusting things have been discarded -by the better taste of modern epicures. And the pig is baked and comes -to table whole. We have always thought it a most unfeminine fancy for a -lady to enjoy eating the head of any thing, and the brain particularly. - - -PORK STEAKS, STEWED.--Take some nice fresh pork steaks, cut either from -the leg or the loin. Trim off the superfluous fat. Season them with a -little salt and pepper, and plenty of minced sage. Put in with them, -minced onions, sliced sweet potatos, parsnips, and white potatos cut -into pieces, also some lima beans. Pour in barely sufficient water to -cover them; or else stew the pork in a very little lard. Apples cored, -pared, and baked whole; the core-place filled with sugar, moistened with -a very little water, to put in the bottom of the baking-dish, are a very -nice accompaniment to pork steaks. - - -PORK AND APPLES.--Take nice steaks, or cutlets, of fresh pork. Season -them with a little pepper, and a very little salt. Pare, core, and -quarter some fine juicy apples. Flavor them with the grated yellow rind -and the juice of one or two lemons, and strew among them plenty of -sugar. Stew them with merely sufficient water to prevent their burning; -or else a little lard without water. When thoroughly done, serve all up -in the same dish. If you cannot procure lemons, flavor the apple with -rose-water, or nutmeg, _after_ it is cooked. Rose-water evaporates much -in cooking. - - -PORK STEAKS, FRIED.--Cut them thin, but do not trim off the fat. -Sprinkle them well all over with finely minced sage or sweet marjoram. -Lay them in a frying-pan, and fry them well on both sides, keeping them -very hot after they are done. Wash out the frying-pan, (or have another -one ready, which is better,) and put it over the fire with plenty of -lard, or fresh butter. Have ready plenty of slices of large juicy -apples, pared, cored, and cut into round pieces. Fry them well, and when -done, take them up on a perforated skimmer, to drain the lard from them. -Sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and pile them on a dish to eat with -the pork. - -Otherwise, send to table with the pork, a dish of apple sauce made in -the usual manner, or a dish of dried peaches, stewed, mashed, and -sweetened. - - -PORK APPLE POT-PIE.--Make a plentiful quantity of nice paste. With some -of it line the sides (but not the bottom) of a large pot. At the very -bottom lay a slice of _fresh_ pork, with most of the fat trimmed off. -Season it with a very little salt and pepper, and add some pieces of -paste. Next put in a thick layer of juicy apples, cut in slices, strewed -with brown sugar. Add another layer of pork, and another of sliced -apples. Proceed thus till the pot is nearly full, finishing with a lid -of paste, not fitting quite closely. Cut a cross-slit in the top, -through which pour in some sweet cider to moisten it, and set it to -cooking. Keep the pot covered; set it at once over a good fire, but not -so hot as to burn the pie. See that it is well done before you take it -up. It is a convenient dish in the country at the season of apple -picking, cider making, and pork killing. - -Stewed or baked apples are always greatly improved by a flavoring of -lemon, rose-water, or nutmeg. - - -APPLE PORK PIE.--Core, peel, and quarter some fine juicy baking-apples. -Make a nice paste with fresh butter and sifted flour, and line with it -the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Put in the apples, and strew among -them sufficient brown sugar to make them very sweet. If you can obtain a -fresh lemon, pare off very thin the yellow rind, and squeeze the juice -to flavor the apples. Prepare some fresh pork steaks, cut thin, and -divested of all the fat except a little at the edge; removing the bone. -Cover the apples with a layer of meat, and pour in a tea-cup of _sweet_ -cider. The contents of the pie should be heaped up in the centre. Have -ready a nice lid of paste, and cover the pie with it, closing and -crimping the edge. In the centre of the lid cut a cross-slit. Put it -into a hot oven and bake it well. This is a farm-house dish, and very -good. Try it. - -Apples have always been considered a suitable accompaniment to fresh -pork. - - -FILLET OF PORK.--Cut a fillet or round, handsomely and evenly, from a -fine leg of fresh pork. Remove the bone. Make a stuffing or forcemeat of -grated bread-crumbs; butter; a tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram, or -tarragon leaves; and sage leaves enough to make a small table-spoonful, -when minced or rubbed fine; all well mixed, and slightly seasoned with -pepper and salt. Then stuff it closely into the hole from whence the -bone was taken. Score the skin of the pork in circles to go all round -the fillet. These circles should be very close together, or about half -an inch apart. Rub into them, slightly, a little powdered sage. Put it -on the spit, and roast it well, till it is thoroughly done throughout; -as pork, if the least underdone, is not fit to eat. Place it, for the -first hour, not very close to the fire, that the meat may get well -heated all through, before the skin begins to harden so as to prevent -the heat from penetrating sufficiently. Then set it as near the fire as -it can be placed without danger of scorching. Keep it roasting steadily -with a bright, good, regular fire, for two or three hours, or longer -still if it is a large fillet. It may require near four hours. Baste it -at the beginning with sweet oil (which will make the skin very crisp) or -with lard. Afterwards, baste it with its own gravy. When done, skim the -fat from the gravy, and then dredge in a little flour to thicken it. -Send the pork to table with the gravy in a boat; and a deep dish of -apple sauce, made very thick, flavored with lemon, and sweetened well. - -A fillet of pork is excellent stewed slowly in a very little water, -having in the same stew-pot some sweet potatos, peeled, split, and cut -into long pieces. If stewed, put _no sage_ in the stuffing; and remove -the skin of the pork. This is an excellent family dish in the autumn. - - -ITALIAN PORK.--Take a nice leg of fresh pork; rub it well with fine salt -and let it lie in the salt for a week or ten days. When you wish to cook -it, put the pork into a large pot, with just sufficient water to cover -it; and let it simmer, slowly, during four hours; skimming it well. Then -take it out, and lay it on a large dish. Pour the water from the pot -into an earthen pan; skim it, and let it cool while you are skinning the -pork. Then put into a pot, a pint of good cider vinegar, mixed with half -a pound of brown sugar, and a pint of the water in which the pork has -been boiled, and from which all the fat has been carefully skimmed off. -Put in the pork with the upper side towards the bottom of the pot. Set -it again over the fire, (which must first be increased,) and heat the -inside of the pot-lid by standing it upright against the front of the -fire. Then cover the pot closely, and let the pork stew for an hour and -a half longer; basting it frequently with the liquid around it, and -keeping the pot-lid as hot as possible that the meat may be well -browned. When done, the pork will have somewhat the appearance of being -coated with molasses. Serve up the gravy with it. What is left of the -meat may be sliced cold for breakfast or luncheon. - -You may stew with it, when the pork is put into the pot a second time, -some large chestnuts, previously boiled and peeled. Or, instead of -chestnuts, sweet potatos, scraped, split, and cut into small pieces. - - -PORK OLIVES.--Cut slices from a fillet or leg of cold fresh pork. Make a -forcemeat in the usual manner, only substituting for sweet herbs some -sage-leaves, chopped fine. When the slices are covered with the -forcemeat, and rolled up and tied round, stew them slowly either in cold -gravy left of the pork, or in fresh lard. Drain them well before they go -to table. Serve them up on a bed of mashed turnips, or potatos, or of -mashed sweet potatos, if in season. - - -PIGS' FEET, FRIED.--Pigs' feet are frequently used for jelly, instead of -calves' feet. They are very good for this purpose, but a larger number -is required (from eight to ten or twelve) to make the jelly sufficiently -firm. After they have been boiled for jelly, extract the bones, and put -the meat into a deep dish: cover it with some good cider vinegar, -seasoned with sugar and a little salt and cayenne. Then cover the dish, -and set it away for the night. Next morning, take out the meat, and -having drained it well from the vinegar, put it into a frying-pan, in -which some lard has just come to a boil, and fry it for a breakfast -dish. - - -PORK AND BEANS.--Take a good piece of pickled pork, (not very fat,) and -to each pound of pork allow a quart of dried white beans. The bone -should be removed from the pork, and the beans well picked and washed. -The evening before they are wanted for cooking, put the beans and pork -to soak in _separate pans_; and just before bed-time, drain off the -water, and replace it with fresh. Let them soak all night. Early in the -morning, drain them well from the water, and wash first the beans, and -then the pork in a cullender. Having scored the skin in stripes, or -diamonds, put the pork into a pot with fresh cold water, and the beans -into another pot with sufficient cold water to cook them well. Season -the pork with a little pepper, but, of course, no salt. Boil them -separately and slowly till the pork is thoroughly done (skimming it -well) and till the beans have all burst open. Afterwards take them out, -and drain them well from the water. Then lay the pork in the middle of a -tin pan, (there must be no liquid fat about it) and the beans round it, -and over it, so as nearly to bury it from sight. Pour in a very little -water, and set the dish into a hot oven, to bake or brown for half an -hour. If kept too long in the oven the beans will become dry and hard. -If sufficiently boiled when separate, half an hour will be long enough -for the pork and beans to bake together. Carefully skim off any liquid -fat that may rise to the surface. Cover the dish, and send it to table -hot. - -For a small dish, two quarts of beans and two pounds of pork will be -enough. To this quantity, when put to bake in the oven, you may allow a -pint of water. - -This is a good plain dish, very popular in New England, and generally -liked in other parts of the country, if properly done. - - -PORK WITH CORN AND BEANS.--Boil a nice small leg of corned pork, skim it -well, and boil it thoroughly. Then have ready a quart, or more, of fresh -string-beans, each bean cut into only three pieces. Boil the beans for -an hour in a separate pot. In another pot boil four ears of young sweet -corn, and when soft and tender, cut it down from the cob, with a sharp -knife, and mix it with the boiled beans, having drained them, through a -cullender, from all the water that is about them. Having mixed them well -together, in a deep dish, season them with pepper, (no salt,) and add a -large lump of fresh butter. - -For green beans you may substitute dried white ones, boiled by -themselves, well drained, and seasoned with pepper and butter, and mixed -in the same dish before they are sent to table. Or the mixed corn and -beans may be heaped round the pork upon the same dish. - -To eat with them make some indian dumplings of corn meal and water, -mixed into a stiff dough, formed into thick dumplings, about as large -round as the top of a tea-cup, and boiled in a pot by themselves. - - -PORK WITH PEAS PUDDING.--Boil a nice piece of pickled or corned pork, -(the leg is the best,) and let it be well skinned, and thoroughly -cooked. To make the pudding, pick over and wash through cold water, a -quart of yellow split peas, and tie them in a square cloth, leaving -barely sufficient room for them to swell; but if too much space is -allowed for swelling, they will be weak and washy. When the peas are all -dissolved into a mass, turn them out of the cloth, and rub them through -a coarse sieve into a pan. Then add a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, mixed well into the peas, and a very little pepper. Beat light, -three yolks and one whole egg, and stir them into the peas a little at a -time. Then beat the whole very hard. Dip your pudding-cloth into hot -water; spread it out in a pan, and pour the mixture into it. Tie up the -cloth, and put the pudding into a pot of boiling water. Let it boil -steadily for at least an hour. When done, send it to table, and eat it -with the pork. - -Next day, if there is much left, boil both the pork and the pudding over -again, (the remains of the pudding tied in the cloth.) Let them boil -till thoroughly warmed throughout. Cut them in slices. Place them on the -same dish, the pork in the middle, with slices of pudding laid round, -and send them to the breakfast table, for strong healthy eaters. - - -SAUSAGE-MEAT.--To fifteen pounds of the lean of fresh pork, allow five -pounds of the fat. Having removed the skin, sinews, and gristle, chop -both the fat and lean as fine as possible, and mix them well together. -Rub to a powder sufficient sage-leaves to make four ounces when done. -Mix the sage with two ounces of fine salt, two ounces of brown sugar, an -ounce of powdered black pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne. -Add this seasoning to the chopped pork, and mix it thoroughly. Pack the -sausage-meat down, hard and closely, into stone jars, which must be kept -in a cool place, and well covered. When wanted for use, make some of it -into small flat cakes, dredge them with flour, and fry them well. The -fat that exudes from the sausage-cakes, while frying, will be sufficient -to cook them in. - - -SAUSAGE DUMPLING.--Make a good paste in the proportion of three mashed -potatos, and a quarter of a pound of finely minced suet to a quart of -flour. Roll it out into a thick sheet. Fill it with the best home-made -sausage meat. Lay the sausage meat in an even heap on the sheet of -dough, and close it up so as to form a large round dumpling. Dip a -square cloth in boiling water, shake it out, dredge it with flour, and -tie the dumpling in it, leaving room for it to swell. Put it into a pot -of boiling water, and keep it boiling hard till thoroughly done. Do not -turn it till immediately before it goes to table. It requires no sauce -but a little cold butter. It may be made into several small dumplings. - - -VEAL AND SAUSAGE PIE.--Line a deep oval dish with a very nice paste. Lay -at the bottom a thin veal cutlet, seasoned with powdered mace. Place -upon it some of the best sausage meat, spread thin; then another veal -cutlet, and then more sausage. Repeat this till the dish is full, -finishing with sausage meat on the top. Then cover the pie with a rather -thick lid or upper crust, uniting the two edges at the rim, by crimping -or notching them neatly. Make a cross slit in the centre of the lid. -Bake the pie well, and serve it up hot. - -Put no water into this pie, as the veal and the sausage will give out -sufficient gravy. We recommend this pie. - -If you live where veal cannot always be procured, substitute chicken or -turkey, boiled and cut up, and covered with layers of sausage; or else -thin slices of venison; or else, the best part of a pair of boiled or -roasted rabbits. - - -BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.--Take three pounds of the lean of a round of corned or -salted beef, and three pounds of the lean of corned or salted pork. -Boil them for an hour in separate pots. Take them up, let them grow -cold, and chop them separately. Chop also, very fine, two pounds of the -fat of bacon, and one pound of beef suet. When these things are all -separately minced, mix them well together, seasoning them well with -chopped sage, sweet marjoram, black pepper, and powdered mace. Also, if -liked, two or three boiled onions minced very small. Have ready some of -the large skins commonly used for these sausages. The skins must have -been carefully emptied, washed, and scraped till quite transparent. Fill -them with the above mixture, stuffing it in hard and evenly with a -sausage-stuffer, sewing and tying both ends securely. Put the sausages -into a brine or pickle, such as is made for ham, of salt, brown sugar, -and molasses mixed with water, and strong enough to bear up an egg. Let -the sausages remain a week in this pickle, turning them every day, and -keeping it closely covered. Then take them out and hang them up to dry, -tied in strings or links. Smoke them for a week over a fire of oak -sticks or corn-cobs. Afterwards, rub them over with salad oil, which is -much the better for being mixed with ashes of vine twigs. - -Sausages made faithfully as above, will be found equal to the real -Bologna, by the lovers of this sort of relish. When it is eaten they are -sliced very thin. Few ladies eat them. - - -HOG'S HEAD CHEESE.--Hog's head cheese is always made at what is called -"killing time." To make four cheeses of moderate size, take two large -hog's heads; two sets, (that is eight feet,) and the noses of all the -pigs that have been killed that day. Clean all these things well, and -then boil them to rags. Having drained off the liquid through a -cullender, spread out the things in large dishes, and carefully remove -all the bones, even to the smallest bits. With a chopper mince the meat -as fine as possible, and season it well with pepper, salt, sage, and -sweet marjoram, adding some powdered mace. Having divided the prepared -meats into four equal parts, tie up each portion tightly in a clean -coarse cloth, and press it into a compact cake, by putting on heavy -weights. It will be fit for use next day. In a cool dry place it will -keep all winter. It requires no farther cooking, and is eaten sliced at -breakfast, luncheon, or supper. If well made, and well seasoned with the -herbs and spices, it will be found very nice for a relish. - - -LIVER PUDDINGS.--Boil some pigs' livers, and when cold mince them, -adding some cold ham or bacon, in the proportion of a pound of liver to -a quarter of a pound of fat bacon. Add also some boiled pigs' feet, -allowing to each pound of liver four pigs' feet boiled, skinned, boned, -and chopped. Season with pepper, powdered mace or nutmeg, and sweet -herbs, (sweet basil and marjoram.) Put the mixture (packed hard,) into -straight-sided tin or white ware pans, and cover them with a clean -cloth. Put heavy weights on the top. Cover them also with folded brown -paper, and set them in a cool dry place. They will be fit to eat next -day. Slice them thick, and send them to the tea or breakfast table. Or -you may fill with the mixture, some nicely cleaned and very transparent -sausage skins, (of a large size,) and tie up the ends with coarse brown -thread, to be removed before going to table. - -You may cut them into large pieces, and broil them, or fry them in lard. - -Calves' liver makes still nicer puddings. - -Keep liver puddings in flat stone jars. - -Never use newspaper to cover or wrap up any thing eatable. The black -always rubs off, and the copperas in the printing ink is very poisonous. - - - - -HAM, etc. - - -BRINE FOR PICKLING MEAT.--To every four gallons of water allow four -pounds of fine salt, two ounces of saltpetre, three pounds of brown -sugar, and two quarts of West India molasses. Boil the whole together, -stirring it well, and skimming it after stirring. When clear, let it -cool. The meat being clean and dry, rub it all over with ground red -pepper. Then put as much meat into the pickling-tub as can be very well -covered by the brine, which must be poured on cold. Let it remain six -weeks in the pickle, (carefully taking off the scum,) and turning each -piece every day. Afterwards, hang it till it is dry outside, and then -smoke it well for a fortnight, hanging it high above the fire with the -large end downward. The fire in the smoke-house should be steadily kept -up all the time. Hickory or oak is the best wood for this purpose. On no -account use pine, cedar, spruce, or hemlock. They will communicate to -the meat a strong taste of turpentine, and render it uneatable. A fire -made of corn-cobs is excellent for smoking meat, and they should be -saved for that purpose. When the meat is smoked, rub it all over with -ground pepper to prevent insects, and sew up all the pieces in new -cotton cloths, coarse and thick, and then white-wash them. We have seen -ham-covers, painted with flowers and gilded. Since California, gilding -pervades the land. - -This pickle will be found excellent for hams, bacon, tongues, or beef. -Meat for pickling must be very fresh, and of excellent quality. Before -sewing it up in covers see that it is free from insects. If to go to -sea, pack in boxes of powdered charcoal for a long voyage. For a short -one, barrels of wood-ashes will do. - - -TO CURE HAMS.--To make good hams the pork must be of the best quality. -No animal tastes so much of its food as the pig. In America, we -consider a pig "killed off the slop" as unfit to eat; and so he is. All -our pigs are kept up in a pen, and fattened with Indian corn, or corn -meal, for several weeks previous to killing. A hundred pounds of corn -meal, (mixed with water to about the consistency of very thick mush,) is -said to be equal in fattening pigs to two hundred pounds of dry-shelled -corn. They should be kept up, and well fed for eight weeks; and -occasionally, in the country, where such fruits are superabundant, the -pigs should have a regale of melons, peaches, &c. This we have seen, and -the pork was, of course, very fine. The hams or hind-quarters are -considered the most valuable part of the animal. They are cured in -various modes. But the Newbold receipt has hitherto been the most -popular. Mr. Newbold was a Pennsylvania farmer. The following -directions, we believe, are authentic. - -For one hundred pounds of fine pork, take seven pounds of coarse salt, -five pounds of brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of -pearlash, and four gallons of water. Boil all together, and skim the -pickle when cold. Pour it on the meat. Let hams or tongues remain in the -pickling-tub eight weeks. Before it is smoked, hang it up and dry it two -or three days. Three weeks will be sufficient for pickling beef. -Previous to sewing the hams in cases, rub them all over with ground -black pepper. - -Soap-suds given frequently to pigs, when kept up to fatten, will greatly -promote their health. - - -BOILED HAM.--Having soaked a fine ham from early in the evening till -near bed-time, putting it into warm water, and changing that water about -ten or eleven o'clock--wash and brush it well in the morning, and trim -it so as to look nicely all over. Lay at the bottom of the ham-boiler a -bed of nice fresh hay, which will greatly improve the flavor. Let the -hock bone be sawed off short. A long shank bone looks very awkward. -Place the ham upon the hay--pour in plenty of cold water, and keep it -simmering very slowly an hour before you allow it to boil. Then increase -the heat gradually, and keep the ham boiling steadily for four, five, or -six hours, according to its size and age. An old ham requires more -soaking and boiling than a new one. Skim it frequently after the boiling -begins. It will be much improved by transferring it to a spit, (having -taken off the whole skin,) and roasting the ham, for the last two or -three hours, basting it with its own essence. Save the skin to cover the -cold ham, and keep it fresh. Before it goes to table cover the ham with -grated bread-crumbs, sifted on so as to form a slight crust. - -If the ham is to be eaten cold, and is intended for company, brush it -all over with beaten yolk of egg. Then dredge on sufficient grated -crumbs to form a crust half an inch thick, and finish by going all over -it with cream. Set it to brown in an oven, or put it on the spit of a -roaster. When cold, this glazing will be found surpassingly fine. -Decorate the hock with white paper, handsomely cut, or with a bunch of -flowers cut out of vegetables. - -Carve a ham in very thin slices--if cut thick, they have not the same -taste, besides looking ungenteelly. - - -BAKED HAM.--For baking, take a small ham, or part of a large one, -trimmed and made of good shape, cutting away whatever looks unsightly. -Have the bone sawed off at the knuckle, or end of the hock. The evening -previous to cooking, lay the ham in soak in a large pan of hot water. At -bed-time pour off the water, and renew it. Keep it closely covered all -night. In the morning wash and brush it well. Make a coarse paste of -coarse flour mixed with water only, and roll it out about an inch thick. -Line a clean iron bake-oven with this, and put in the ham, reserving -enough of paste to cover the top. Pour in a very little water, merely -sufficient to keep the ham from burning. Put on the lid of paste, and -having wet the edges slightly press them together, so as to unite -closely the top and bottom crust. Bake it over a steady fire, from four -to five or six hours, or more, according to its size. When done, skim -the gravy, remove the paste, (which is of no farther use,) and take off -the skin of the ham. Dredge it all over with finely grated bread-crumbs, -before it goes to table. A ham can scarcely be cooked too much, and too -slow. The general fault is in cooking them too little, and too fast. A -ham of the smallest size will require at least four hours baking or -boiling, even after it has been all night in soak. Save the skin whole, -to cover the cold ham when it is put away in the pantry. - -When a cooked ham is nearly all used up, take what remains, cut it all -off from the bone, and stew the bits in a little water, till they are -all to rags. You will find the essence an improvement to gravies, -strained from the fragments. - - -MADEIRA HAM.--This is a dish only seen at dinner parties. No one can -believe, for a moment, that hams really cooked in Madeira wine are -served up every week at hotels, particularly at those houses where there -is no other superfluity, and where most of the great dishes exist only -in the bill of fare. A genuine Madeira ham is cooked as follows:--Take a -ham of the very finest sort; should be a Westphalia one. Lay it in hot -water, and soak it all day and all night, changing the water several -times, and every time washing out the pan. Early in the morning of the -second day, put the ham into a large pot of cold water, and boil it -slowly during four hours, skimming it well. Then take it out, remove the -skin entirely, and put the ham into a clean boiler, with sufficient -Madeira wine to cover it well. Boil, or rather stew it, an hour longer, -keeping the pot covered except when you remove the lid to turn the ham. -When well stewed take it up, drain it, and strain the liquor into a -porcelain-lined saucepan. Have ready a sufficiency of powdered white -sugar. Cover the ham all over with a thick coating of the sugar, and set -it into a hot oven to bake for an hour. - -Mix some orange or lemon-juice with the liquor adding plenty of sugar -and nutmeg. Give it one boil up over the fire, and serve it up in a -tureen, as sauce to the ham. - -What is left of the ham may be cut next day into small pieces, put into -a stew-pan, with the remains of the liquor or sauce poured over it, and -stewed for a quarter of an hour or more. Serve it up all together in the -same dish. While it is on the fire, add a little butter to the stew. - - -BROILED HAM.--Ham for broiling or frying should be cut into thin slices -the evening before, trimmed, and laid in a pan of boiling water, which, -near bed-time, should be changed for cold water, and very early in the -morning for boiling water, in which it should lie half an hour to soak -still longer. If ham is not well soaked previously, it will, when -broiled or fried, be disagreeably hard and salt; the salt frying out to -the surface and forming a rough unpleasant crust, which will create -thirst in the eaters for hours after. Much of the salt of a ham goes off -in boiling, but if it is _not_ boiled or soaked, the salt comes out to -the surface and there it sticks. The slices being cut thin and nicely -trimmed, they should be broiled on a very clean gridiron over a clear -fire, and so well done that they incline to curl up at the edges. Dish -them hot, and lay on every slice a very small bit of fresh butter, and -sprinkle them with pepper. - - -FRIED HAM.--Ham for frying need not be _quite_ so thin as for broiling. -Put but little butter in the frying-pan, as their own fat is generally -sufficient to cook them. Break an egg over the middle of each slice, and -let it cook till the white is set, and the yolk appears round and yellow -through it. Before it goes to table trim off nicely the discolored and -ragged edges of the fried eggs. They look disgusting when left on. - -Cold ham is excellent for broiling or frying, and very nice without any -further cooking. Send it to table strewed with either nasturtion -flowers, pepper-grass, or parsley. All these things have a fine flavor -of their own, especially nasturtions. - - -NICE FRIED HAM.--Having scalded and soaked some nice ham, cut it into -rather thick slices, and then cut these slices into mouthfuls or little -narrow slips. Put them into a hot frying-pan, and fry them well. When -done, season them with pepper and nutmeg, and serve them up in their own -gravy. It will be an improvement to add a beaten egg just before they go -to table. - -You may add to the ham some bits of cold boiled chicken, pulled in -little slips, from the breast, and fried with the ham, adding a little -fresh butter. - - -SLICED HAM.--Slice very thin some cold boiled ham, and let the slices be -nearly of the same size and appearance, making them look as handsome as -you can. Cover them with fresh green pepper-grass at a summer breakfast -or tea-table; and decorate the pepper-grass by interspersing with it -some nasturtion flowers, which are very nice to eat, having a taste -agreeably and slightly pungent. Pepper-grass and nasturtions, are very -appetizing accompaniments to nice bread and butter. - - -DISGUISED HAM.--Scrape or grate a pound of cold boiled ham, twice as -much lean as fat. Season it slightly with pepper and a little powdered -mace or nutmeg. Beat the yolks only, of three eggs, and mix with them -the ham. Spread the mixture thickly over slices of very nice toast, with -the crust pared off, and the toast buttered while hot. Brush it slightly -on the surface with white of egg, and then brown it with a red hot -shovel or salamander. This is a nice breakfast dish. - - -HAM CAKE.--This should be made the day before it is wanted. Take the -remains of a cold ham. Cut it into small bits, and pound it well (fat -and lean together) in a marble mortar, adding some butter and grated -nutmeg; or a little cream, sufficient to moisten it throughout. Fill a -mould with the mixture, and set it for half an hour into a moderate -oven. When ready for use, set the mould for a few minutes into hot -water, and then turn out the ham cake on a dish. Cover the surface all -over with a coating of beaten white of egg. And before it is quite dry, -decorate it with capers, or pickled nasturtion seeds, arranged in a -pattern. - -Send small bread rolls to the supper table with the ham cake. - - -HAM OMELET.--Mince very fine some cold boiled ham, (twice as much lean -as fat,) till you have a half pint. Break six eggs, and strain them into -a shallow pan. Beat them till very light and thick, and then stir in -gradually the minced ham. Have ready, in a hot omelet pan, three -table-spoonfuls of lard. When the lard boils, put in the omelet mixture -and fry it. Occasionally slip a knife under the edge to keep it loose -from the pan. It should be near an inch thick, as a ham omelet is best -not to fold over. Make it a good even shape; and when one side is done, -turn the other and brown it. You can turn it easily with a knife and -fork, holding carefully, close to the omelet, the hot dish on which it -is to go to table. Dredge the surface with a little cayenne. - -Omelets may be made in this manner, of smoked tongue, or oysters -chopped, cold sweetbread, asparagus minced, boiled onions, mushrooms, -&c. A good allowance for a small omelet is the above proportion of eggs -and lard, or fresh butter; and a large tea-cup of the seasoning article, -which must always have been previously cooked. - -They are much lighter when served up of their full size, and not folded -over in halfs. A large omelet must have from eight to ten, or a dozen -eggs. It is best to bake all omelets of the six egg size, and have more -in number if required. - - -HAM TOAST.--Make some very nice slices of toast, with all the crust -trimmed off; and dip each toast for an instant into a bowl of hot water, -then butter it slightly. Have ready some grated cold ham, and spread it -thick over each slice of toast. Tongue toast is made in the same manner. - - -SANDWICHES.--Spread some thin slices of bread very thinly with nice -fresh butter, and lay a thin slice of cold ham (the edges neatly -trimmed) between every two slices of bread and butter. You may make them -so thin, as to roll up--a number being piled on a plate. - - -BISCUIT SANDWICHES.--This is a very nice and very pretty dish for a -supper table. Have ready one or two dozen of fresh soft milk biscuit. -Split them, and take a very little of the soft crumb out of each -biscuit, so as to make a slight hollow. Butter the biscuits with very -nice fresh butter, and fill them liberally with grated ham or tongue. -Stick round the inside of the edges, full sprigs of pepper-grass, or -curled parsley, or the green tops of celery. Arrange the sprigs closely -and handsomely, so as to project out all round the sides, forming a -green border or fringe. We highly recommend biscuit sandwiches. - - -POTTED HAM.--Take some cold ham, slice it, and mince it small, fat and -lean together. Then pound it in a mortar; seasoning it as you proceed -with cayenne pepper, powdered mace, and powdered nutmeg. Then fill with -it a large deep pan, and set it in an oven for half an hour. Afterwards -pack it down hard in a stone jar, and fill up the jar with lard. Cover -it closely, and paste down a thick paper over the jar. If sufficiently -seasoned, it will keep well in winter; and is convenient for sandwiches, -or on the tea-table. A jar of this will be found useful to travelers in -remote places. - -Tongue may be potted as above. - - -TO PREPARE BACON.--All pieces of pork that, after pickling, are dried -and smoked, come under the denomination of bacon; except the -hind-quarters or legs, and they are always called ham, and are justly -considered superior to any other part of the animal, and bring a higher -price. The shoulders or fore-quarters, the sides or flitches, the jowl -or head, and all the other parts, are designated as bacon; and in some -places they erroneously give that name to the whole animal, if cured, or -preserved by the process of smoking. - -To prepare bacon for being cooked, examine it well, and scrape it -carefully, and trim off all unsightly parts. If the fat is yellow, the -meat is rusty or tainted, and not fit to eat. So, also, if on the lean -there are brownish or blackish spots. All sorts of food, if kept too -long, should be thrown away at once. - -If perfectly good, prepare the bacon for cooking, by washing it well, -and then soaking it for several hours in a pan full of cold water, -removing the water once or twice during the process. If the bacon is -salt and hard, soak it all night, changing the water at bed-time, and -early in the morning. - -Ham should also be soaked before cooking. - -A dish of broiled ham is a nice accompaniment to one of calves' -chitterlings, at breakfast. - - -TO BOIL BACON.--Put two or three pounds of nice bacon into a pot with -plenty of cold water, and let it simmer slowly for an hour before it -begins to boil. Skim it well, and when no more scum rises, put in the -vegetables which are usually eaten with bacon, and which taste better -for boiling with the meat. These are young greens, or sprouts, very -young roots and leaves of the poke plant, and green beans--strung and -cut in half--not smaller. On no account should any other vegetables be -boiled with bacon. When the bacon is so tender as to be easily pierced -through with a fork, even in the thickest places, take it up and drain -it well in a cullender or sieve. Remove the skin. Then take up the -vegetables and drain them also, pressing out _all_ the liquid. Season -them with pepper only. Send the meat to table with the vegetables heaped -round it, on the same large dish, (the cabbage being chopped, but not -minced fine.) Potatos, squashes, peas, asparagus, &c., should never be -boiled in the same pot, or served up in the same dish with bacon, which -is too plain a dish for any but a country table; while a ham is a -delicacy for the city, or for any place. - - -BACON AND BEANS.--Scrape and trim a nice piece of bacon, (not too fat,) -and see that no part of it looks yellow or rusty, or shows any -appearance of being too old. If so, do not cook it, as it is -unwholesome, unpalatable, and unfit to eat. A shoulder is a good piece -to boil. The best of the animal, when smoked, is, of course, the ham or -leg. We are now speaking of the other pieces that, when cured, are -properly called bacon, and are eaten at plain tables only. - -The meat, if very salt, is the better for being put in soak early in the -morning, or the night before. Afterwards put it into a pot, and boil and -skim it till tender. Have ready a quart or two of fresh green string -beans, cut into three pieces, (not more); put them into the pot in which -the bacon is boiling, and let them cook with the meat for an hour or -more. When done, take them out, drain them well; season them well with -pepper, and send them to table on a separate dish from the bacon. - -Many persons like so well this bacon flavor, that they _always_, when -boiling string-beans, put a small piece of bacon in the pot, removing it -before the beans are sent to table. - -With bacon and beans, serve up whole potatos boiled and peeled--and in -the country, where cream is plenty, they boil some with butter, and pour -it over the potatos, touching each one with pepper. - - -BROILED HAM OR BACON.--Wash and trim a nice piece of bacon; soak it all -night, or for several hours, in cold water. In the morning scald it with -boiling water. Let it lie till cool, then throw away the water, and -scald it again. Cut it into thin slices, very smooth and even; the rind -being previously pared off. Curl up the slices, rolling them round, and -securing them with wooden skewers. Broil them on a gridiron, or bake -them in a Dutch oven. If cut properly thin, they will cook in a quarter -of an hour. They must not be allowed to burn or blacken. Before you send -them to table, take out the skewers. They may be cooked in flat slices, -without curling, but they must be cut always very thin. Slice some -hard-boiled eggs, and lay them on the meat. Season with black pepper. - -_Cold_ boiled ham cooked as above, will require no soaking, and can be -speedily prepared for a breakfast dish. Lay sprigs of parsley on the -ham. - -Serve up with them mashed potatos made into balls, or thick flat cakes, -and browned on the surface with a red-hot shovel. - - -STEWED HAM.--Cut some thin slices of cold boiled ham. Season them -slightly with pepper. No salt. Lay them in a stew pan with plenty of -green peas or lima beans, or else cauliflowers, or young summer cabbage, -quartered, and the thick stalk omitted. Add a piece of fresh butter, or -_a very little lard_. Put in just water enough to keep the things from -burning. When the vegetables are quite done, add a beaten egg or two, -and in five minutes, take up the stew and send it to table. - - -STEWED BACON.--Take a small piece of bacon, not too fat or salt. It had -best be soaked in cold water the night before. Put it into a pot, with a -large portion of string beans, each cut into three pieces, (not more,) -or else some cabbage, or young cabbage sprouts. Early in the spring, the -young stalks of the pokeberry plant will be found excellent with stewed -bacon. Stew the bacon and vegetables in just water enough to cover them -all; skimming frequently. Drain all, through a cullender, when done. -Have a dish of boiled potatos also. A molasses indian pudding is a good -conclusion to this homely dinner. - - -PREPARED LARD.--As soon as it is cut off from the newly killed pork, put -the fat into a crock, or deep earthen pot. Cover the crock with its own -lid, and let it stand all night in a cool place. Next day, cut it into -small bits, (carefully removing all the fleshy particles of lean); and -then put the fat into a _very clean_ pot, without either water or salt. -The pot should not be more than half full of pork-fat. Let it boil -_slowly_, (stirring it frequently from the bottom, lest it burn,) till -it becomes quite clear and transparent. Then ladle it into clean pans. -When almost cold, put it into stoneware jars, which must be closely -covered, and kept in a cool place. If it is to go to a distance, tie it -up in new bladders. - -There are two sorts of pork-fat for lard. The leaf-fat, which is best; -and the fat that adheres to the entrails. These two fats should be -boiled separately. - -The large entrails, whose skins are to be used for sausages, must be -cleaned out carefully, well scraped, and thrown into strong salt and -water for two days, (changing the brine the second day,) and afterwards -into strong lye for twenty-four hours. Lastly, wash them in fresh water. -We think it much better to dispense with the skins altogether; keeping -your sausage meat in jars, and frying it in cakes when wanted for use. -Its own fat (as it exudes) will cook it. - -Never use bad butter when you can obtain good lard, for frying, and -other purposes. - - - - -VENISON. - - -You may judge of the age of venison by looking at the hoof, which is -always left on the leg. The deer is young if the cleft of the hoof is -small and smooth; but large and rough, if he is old. Buck venison is -considered better than the meat of the doe. The haunch, or hind-quarter, -is the best part, and the fat upon it should, be thick and white. The -shoulder, or fore-quarter, is the next best piece. The saddle comprises -both hind-quarters; and these, for a large company, are always cooked -together. - -To eat venison in perfection, it should be killed when the deer can find -plenty of fresh food in the forest, and when they have fattened on the -abundance of wild berries, which they can obtain during the autumn. In -winter, they are brought into the cities, lean, hard, dry, and black, -and the meat infested all through with small threadlike white worms; -showing that decomposition has commenced, and requiring the disguise of -spices, wine, currant jelly, &c., to render it _eatable_, not -_wholesome_, for every sort of food in the slightest degree tainted is -utterly injurious to health, and cannot often be eaten with impunity. - -It never was very fashionable, in America, to eat spoiled victuals, and -it is now less so than ever. Fortunately, in our land of abundance, "we -do not see the necessity". - - -HAUNCH OF VENISON.--To prepare a haunch of venison for roasting (we will -suppose it to be _perfectly_ good and well kept,) wipe it thoroughly all -over with clean cloths, dipped in lukewarm water, and then go over it -with clean dry cloths. Trim off all unsightly parts. Lay over the fat a -large sheet of thick brown paper, well buttered, and securely tied on -with twine. Or else make a coarse paste of brown meal, and cover it with -that. Place it before a good steady fire, and let it roast from three to -four hours, according to its size. After roasting well for three hours, -remove the covering of paper or paste, and baste the meat well all over; -first with dripping or butter, and then with its own gravy, dredging it -very slightly with browned flour. Skim the fat off the gravy, and send -the venison to table plain, with sweet sauce of black currant jelly, or -raspberry jam, in a glass dish with a spoon in it. - - -VENISON STEAKS, BROILED.--Cut the steaks not quite an inch thick. Trim -them nicely, and season them with a little black pepper and salt. Have -ready, over a bed of clear bright hot coals from a wood fire, a gridiron -with grooved bars to catch the gravy. Put down the steaks, and when one -side is quite done turn the other, and broil that. Venison should always -be very thoroughly done. Before you take up the steaks, lay a bit of -nice fresh butter upon each. Take them up on a hot dish, and keep them -warm. Pour off the gravy into a small saucepan. Give it a boil over the -fire, and skim off all the fat from the surface. Stir into it some nice -wine, and serve up with the steaks a deep dish of cranberry, or peach -sauce, or a large cup of grape jelly. - - -STEWED VENISON STEAKS.--Take some fine steaks of _freshly killed_ -venison. Cut them from the upper part of the leg. Make a forcemeat, or -stuffing, with bread soaked in milk, mixed with fresh butter, with -chopped sweet marjoram and sweet basil; or some boiled onions, minced -small, and mixed with chopped sage, which may be boiled _with_ the -onion, and seasoned with a very little salt and pepper. Spread the -stuffing thickly over the inside of the steaks. Then roll them up, and -tie them round with packthread, or secure them at the ends with wooden -skewers. Put the steaks into a stewpan with some fresh butter or lard, -or some drippings that have been left of roast venison--the day before. -Let them stew (keeping the pan covered) till thoroughly done. Then dish -them with the gravy round them. Serve up with them a sauce of stewed -cranberries, or stewed dried peaches. - -You may stew lamb or mutton cutlets in the same manner, but do not use -mutton dripping. Water (a very small quantity) is best for them. Veal -cutlets may be stewed exactly like venison. - - -HASHED VENISON.--Take the remains of cold roast venison, from which -sufficient gravy or dripping has been saved to cook the meat again, -without any water at all. It would be well if this were done in all -hashes made from cold meat. For want of drippings, use butter or lard. -Cold meat stewed in water is weak and unpalatable. - -Two or three large spoonfuls of mushroom, or tomato catchup, are -improvements to all hashes. If nothing better can be obtained use -onions, always previously boiled to render them less strong. - -Minced sweet herbs are excellent seasoning for hashes. Also minced -tarragon leaves; they give a peculiar flavor that is very generally -liked. Fresh tarragon is in season in July, August, and September. - -French mustard (to be obtained at all the best grocery stores) is a -great improvement to hashes and stews. Stir in at the last, one or two -large table-spoonfuls. The chief ingredient of French mustard is -tarragon. - - -A FINE VENISON PIE.--Cut steaks from a loin or haunch of venison, which -should be as freshly killed as you can get it. The strange and absurd -prejudice in favor of hard black-looking venison, (that has been kept -till the juices are all dried up,) is fast subsiding; and no one now -eats any sort of food in which decomposition has commenced. Those who -have eaten venison fresh from the forest, when the deer have fattened -on wild grapes, huckleberries, blackberries, cranberries, &c., will -never again be able to relish such as is brought in wagon loads to the -Atlantic cities, and which has been kept till full of those fine threads -that are in reality long thin whitish worms, and which are often seen in -very old hams. - -Having removed the bones and cut the meat into steaks, and seasoned it -with salt and pepper, put the venison into a pot, with merely as much -water as will cover it well. Let it stew till perfectly tender, skimming -it occasionally. Then take it out, and set it to cool, saving the gravy -in a bowl. Make a nice puff paste; divide the paste into two equal -portions, and roll it out rather thick. Butter a deep dish, and line it -with one of the sheets of paste, rolled thin at the bottom. Then put in -the stewed venison. Season the gravy with a glass of _very good_ wine, -(either port or sherry,) a few blades of mace, and a powdered nutmeg. -Stir into it the crumbled yolks of some hard-boiled eggs. Pour the gravy -over the meat, and put on the other sheet of paste, as the lid of the -pie. Bring the two edges close together, so as to unite evenly, and -notch them handsomely. Set it immediately into the oven, and bake it -well. If a steady heat is kept up, it will be done in an hour. Send it -to table hot. - -Instead of wine, you may put into the gravy half a pint of _black_ -currant jelly, which, for venison, is thought preferable to red. Either -will do. - -Any sort of game, partridges, pheasants, grouse, wild ducks, &c., may -be made into a fine pie, exactly as above. - - -VERY PLAIN VENISON PIE.--Cut from the bone some good pieces of fine -_fresh_ venison, season them slightly with salt and pepper, and put them -into a pot with plenty of potatos, (either sweet or white,) split and -quartered, and only as much water as will cover the whole. Set it over -the fire, cover it, and let it stew slowly and steadily, till all is -tender, skimming it several times. Meanwhile, make a nice paste of flour -shortened with cold gravy, or drippings saved from roast venison, or of -nice lard. Allow half a pint of shortening to each quart of flour. Put -the flour into a pan, and rub the shortening into it as quickly as -possible, adding a _very little_ cold water, to make it into a lump of -paste. Then roll it out into a sheet, and spread over it with a broad -knife the remaining half of the shortening. Dredge lightly with flour, -fold it up, and roll it out in two sheets. With one of them line your -pie-dish, and put into it the stewed venison and potatos. Pour in the -gravy of the stew. The filling of this pie should be piled high in the -centre. Lay on, as a lid, the other sheet of paste, which should be -rather the largest. Pare off smoothly the edges of the two crusts, and -crimp them nicely. Set the pie in the oven, and bake it well. It may be -eaten either hot or cold, but is best hot. - -The above quantity of paste is only sufficient for a very small pie. -For one of moderate size allow two quarts of flour, and a pound of -shortening. - - -VENISON POT-PIE.--Remove the bone from some fine venison steaks, cut -near an inch thick. Season them lightly with pepper and salt, and score -them each in several places. Stew them in a very little water till -tender. Have ready an ample portion of nice suet paste. If you cannot -obtain beef suet use cold venison fat, minced fine and made into a paste -with double its quantity in flour, and as little water as possible. Lay -some stewed venison at the bottom of the pot, and line the sides with -paste almost up to the top. Put in the meat, adding among it boiled -sweet potatos cut into pieces, or (if they are to be had in plenty,) -chestnuts, boiled and peeled. Mushrooms will be a great improvement. -Onion also, (if liked,) boiled and cut up. Intersperse the whole with -square pieces of paste. Fill the pot almost to the top with the meat and -other ingredients. Lay a thick paste over the whole, cut round to fit, -but not too closely. Pour in a pint of warm water to increase the gravy. -Make a cross slit in the middle of the upper crust. Cook the pie till -all is well done. Serve it up with the brown crust in pieces, and laid -on the top. - -This pie, if well made, and with plenty of paste, will be thought -excellent whenever fresh venison is to be had. - - -VENISON HAM.--Take fine freshly-killed venison. Mix together an ounce of -saltpetre, a pound of coarse brown sugar, and a pound of salt. Let them -be very thoroughly mixed and pounded. Rub this well into the meat, and -continue rubbing hard till it froths. Keep the meat in the pickle for -two weeks, turning it every day. Then take it out, and roll it in -saw-dust, (which, on no account, must be the saw-dust of any species of -pine.) Hang it for two weeks longer in the smoke of oak wood or of corn -cobs. All hams, when being smoked, must be hung very high, and have the -large end downwards. If hung too low, the heat softens or melts the fat. - -Venison hams, if well cured, require no boiling. They are always eaten -chipped or shaved like smoked beef, to which they are very superior. It -may be stewed in a skillet with fresh butter and beaten egg, and cut -into thin shavings, or very thin small slices--or, instead of butter, -with the drippings of cold roast venison. Season with pepper only. - - -RABBITS.--Rabbits should be young and tender, but full-grown and fat. -Two are required to make a dish. One rabbit, except for an invalid, is -scarcely worth the trouble of cooking; and, being naturally insipid, it -must have certain seasoning to make it taste well. The hare, so much -prized in England, owes its reputation entirely to their mode of -dressing it, which is troublesome, expensive, and in our country would -never become popular, unless the animal had in itself more to recommend -it. With all that can be done for a hare, it is, when cooked, black, -dry, hard; and if it has been kept long enough to acquire what they call -the "true game flavor," so much the worse. A fine fat well-fed tame -rabbit is much better. In Virginia, the negroes frequently call a large -rabbit "a hare"--or rather "a yar;" and though they know it to be young, -they generally term it "that old yar." We opine that _with them_ "yars" -are not admired. If a rabbit is really old his ears are tough, and his -claws blunt and rough with coarse hairs growing between them. A young -rabbit has short sharp claws, and ears so tender that on trying you can -easily tear them. Rabbits should be cooked the day they are killed. -Always cut off the head. A rabbit dished whole, with its head on, is, to -most persons, a disgusting sight. The head of no small animal is worth -eating, and always looks disagreeable when cooked. - -The livers of rabbits should be added to the gravy. - - -ROASTED RABBITS.--Take a pair of fine well-fed young rabbits, and having -drawn or emptied them, lay them, for about ten minutes, in a pan of warm -water. Then dry them inside with a clean cloth, carefully wiping them -out. Truss them short, and neatly, having removed the heads. Line the -inside with very thin slices of fat bacon that has had most of the salt -soaked out. Make a plentiful stuffing or forcemeat of bread steeped in -milk, some fresh butter mixed with a very little flour; or, instead of -butter, some beef suet finely minced; some chopped sweet herbs; and some -crumbled yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Season with mace and nutmeg, and -grated lemon rind. Fill the rabbits well with this--or, you may stuff -them entirely with boiled potatos, mashed with plenty of nice butter, or -the drippings of roast veal or pork. Or (if liked) you may make the -stuffing entirely of minced onion, (previously boiled,) and minced sage -leaves, moistened with a very little lard or sweet oil, and seasoned -with powdered mace, nutmeg, and pepper. Having put in plenty of -stuffing, sew up the bodies of the rabbits, flour them well, and put -them on the spit and set them before a clear fire. Baste them with milk, -or with fresh butter, tied up in thin muslin. They will be done in an -hour or more. Thicken the gravy with flour, and pour it over them in the -dish. Roasted rabbits make a good second dish at a small dinner. Take -the livers of the rabbits, and chop them, to put into the gravy. - - -RABBITS WITH ONIONS.--Peel, boil, and slice six (or more) large onions, -and season them with nutmeg, and a very little cayenne. Cover them, and -set them aside till wanted. Cut two fine rabbits into pieces, and fry -them in fresh butter or lard. When browned, and nearly done, cover them -with the sliced onions, and brown _them_, having laid among them some -bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Dish the rabbits, with the pieces -entirely hidden under the onions. - -A plainer, and not so good a way, is to put the pieces of rabbit, and -the sliced onions, into a stew-pan with a little water, and stew the -whole together. - - -RABBIT POT-PIE.--Cut up the rabbits, and stew them in a little water. -When nearly done, put the pieces into a pot and intersperse them with -bits of cold ham. Add the gravy left from the stew. Season with pepper -and mace. Have ready sufficient paste, (made with minced suet, and -rather more than twice its quantity of flour.) There must be enough of -paste to line the sides of the pot all round, nearly up to the top, and -enough to make a thick lid, besides having plenty of extra pieces to lay -among the other contents. Also have ready a few onions boiled and -sliced. Cover the pie with the lid of paste, not fitting very closely. -Make a cross slit in the top, and pour in a little water. When done, -serve all up on one large dish. - -This pie will be much improved by stewing with the rabbits a fresh beef -steak. A beef steak in any pot-pie thickens and enriches the gravy. - - -PULLED RABBITS.--Boil, very tender, a fine pair of nice young rabbits. -When cold, cut them in pieces as for carving, and peel off the skin. -Then with a fork pull all the meat from the bones, first loosening it -with a knife. Put it into a stew-pan with plenty of cream, or some bits -of fresh butter rolled in flour; some minced sweet herbs, some grated -fresh lemon rind, and some hard-boiled yolks of eggs crumbled. Season -with cayenne and nutmeg. Cover it, and let it simmer till it comes to a -boil. Then immediately take it off the fire, and transfer it to a deep -dish. Serve it up hot. This is a side dish at dinner. - - -FRICASSEED RABBITS.--Cut up the rabbits as for carving, and go over -every piece with lard or sweet oil. Lay them in a frying pan, and fry -them in nice fresh butter. If you cannot procure this, use lard. Season -them with a very little salt and cayenne, dredge them well with flour, -and sprinkle them thickly with parsley, or sweet marjoram. When they are -fried brown, take them up. Keep them warm in a heated dish with a cover. -Skim the gravy that remains in the pan, and add to it some cream, or -rich milk thickened with flour, enriched with the beaten yolk of an egg, -and flavored with nutmeg. - -Rabbits may be cut up, and fried in batter made of bread-crumbs and -beaten egg. Dip every piece of rabbit twice into the batter. - - -A COATED HARE, OR LARGE RABBIT.--The hare, or rabbit, should be large -and fat. Save the liver and heart to assist in the gravy, which ought to -be made of some pieces of the lean of good fresh beef, seasoned with -pepper, salt, and nutmeg, stewed in a small sauce-pan, till all the -essence is extracted, adding the chopped liver and heart, and a bit of -fresh butter, rolled in flour. Cold fresh meat, or meat that has to be -recooked, is unfit for gravy, and so it is for soup. Line the inside of -the hare with small thin slices of fat ham, or bacon, and then fill the -cavity with a stuffing made of grated bread-crumbs, the grated yellow -rind and juice of a lemon, or orange, a piece of fresh butter, some -minced sweet marjoram, and the crumbled yolk of one or two hard-boiled -eggs. Season the stuffing with a little pepper and salt, and some -powdered nutmeg and mace. Fill the body of the hare with this mixture, -and sew it up, to keep in the stuffing. Spit the hare, and roast it -well, keeping it for a while at a moderate distance from the fire. To -baste it, while roasting, make a dressing of the beaten yolks of four -eggs, four spoonfuls of flour, a pint of milk, and three table-spoonfuls -of salad oil, all well-beaten together. Baste the hare with this till it -is thickly coated all over with the batter, taking care it does not -burn. Send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat, accompanied by currant, -or cranberry jelly. - -A very young fawn, or a kid, may be drest in a similar manner. Kids are -not eaten after three months old. Till that age their meat is white and -delicate. Their flesh, _after_ that time, gradually becomes coarse and -dark-colored. A very young kid, before it is weaned, is very delicious; -but no longer. In the oriental countries, young kids are stuffed with -chopped raisins and almonds, or pistachio nuts, previous to roasting; -and basted with rich milk, or cream. - -For sauce to a kid or fawn, use orange marmalade, or grape jelly. - - - - -POULTRY AND GAME. - - -Spring chickens bring a high price, and are considered delicacies, but -they are so insipid, and have so little on them, that we think the -purchase of them, when very young, a mere fashionable extravagance, and -a waste of money that might be better employed in something that had -really a fine flavor, and that when divided was more than a morsel for -each person. We wonder that any but invalids should care for spring -chickens. It is better to wait till the young chickens grow into nice -plump fowls, that were well fed, and have lived long enough to show it. -A fine full-grown young fowl, has a clear white skin, that tears easily -when tried with a pin. It has a broad fleshy breast, the legs are -smooth, and the toes easily broken when bent back. Fowls with whitish -legs are considered the best for boiling; those with dark legs the best -for roasting. The finest of all fowls are capons. They grow very large -and fat, and yet are as tender as young chickens, have a fine delicate -rich flavor of their own, and are well worth their cost. The great Bucks -county fowls are profitable because they are large; but they are never -very plenty in market, being difficult to raise. The best poultry feels -heavy in proportion to its size. Hen turkeys are best for boiling. - -Ducks and geese (particularly the latter) are so tough when old, that it -is often impossible to eat them; therefore buy none that are not young. -Geese are generally kept alive too long, for the sake of their feathers, -which they always shed in August, and for which there is always a -demand. And geese are not expensive to keep, as in summer they feed on -grass, and will graze in a field like sheep. The feet and legs of an old -goose are red and hard. So is her bill. The skin is rough, coarse, and -tough, and full of hairs. Let nothing induce you to buy an old goose. -You would find it too tough to carve, and too tough to eat. And no -cooking can make her tender. - -Poultry should be drawn, or emptied (taking care not to break the gall) -as soon almost as killed. Then let it be well washed, inside and out, -and wiped dry. In picking it, carefully remove every plug or vestige of -feathers, and singe off the hairs, by holding the bird to the fire, with -a lighted piece of writing paper. Brown paper will give it something of -an unpleasant taste. Newspaper is worse, on account of the printing-ink. - -If poultry is brought from market frozen, you need not hasten to thaw -it, before it is actually wanted for use. Till then, put it in a cold -place, and let it remain frozen. It will keep the better. When you thaw -it, by all means use only _cold_ water. Any frozen poultry, or meat, -thawed in warm water, will most certainly spoil. Let it be remembered -that any food which has been frozen requires a much longer time to cook. - - -BOILED TURKEY.--For boiling, choose a fine fat hen turkey. In drawing -it, be careful not to break the gall, or a bitter taste will be -communicated to the whole bird. In picking, remove every plug and hair, -and then singe it with _writing-paper_. Wash it very clean, and then -wipe it dry, inside and out. In trussing, draw the legs into the body, -having cut them off at the first joint. Let the turkey look as round and -plump as possible. Fill the breast with a very nice forcemeat, or -stuffing, made of a quarter of a pound of grated bread-crumbs, mixed -with two large table-spoonfuls or two ounces of fresh butter, or finely -minced suet, seasoned with a little pepper and salt, a heaped -tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and mace mixed together, a -table-spoonful of sweet herbs[C] (sweet basil and sweet marjoram) -chopped small if green, and powdered if dry; and the crumbled yolks of -two hard-boiled eggs. Add the grated yellow rind, and the juice of a -fresh lemon, and mix the whole very well. Skewer the liver and gizzard -under the pinions, having first cut open the gizzard and cleared it of -sand or gravel. - - [C] The herbs summer savory and thyme (like the spices cloves and - allspice) are now seldom used in good cookery. - -It is no longer customary to mix stuffing or forcemeat with beaten raw -egg for the purpose of binding the ingredients together. Leave them -loose, without this binding, and the forcemeat will be much lighter, -better flavored, and more abundant. It will not fall out if a -packthread, or very _small_ twine is wound carefully round the body, (to -be removed before serving up,) and it may be secured by sewing it with a -needle and thread. - -Put the turkey into a large pot with plenty of cold water, and boil it -gently, for two hours or more, in proportion to its size; carefully -removing all the scum as it rises. It will be whiter if boiled in a -large clean cloth, or in a coarse paste, (the paste to be thrown away -afterwards,) and take care that it is thoroughly done. Serve up boiled -turkey with oyster sauce, celery sauce, or cauliflower sauce. Sweet -sauce is rarely eaten with boiled things--unless with puddings. - -Boiled turkey should be accompanied by a ham or tongue. - -To ascertain if boiled poultry is done, try the thickest parts with a -large needle. If the needle goes through, and in and out easily, it is -sufficient. - -A turkey (boiled or roast) for a family dish, may be stuffed with nice -sausage meat, in which case it requires no other stuffing. Surround it -on a dish with fried sausage cakes, about the size of a dollar, but -near an inch thick. - -It is very convenient to keep always in the house, during the winter -months, one or two large jars of nice home-made sausage-meat, well -covered. The best time for making sausage-meat is in November. After -March, sausages are seldom eaten. - - -OYSTER TURKEY.--(_French dish._)--Prepare a fine young hen turkey, for -boiling; skewering the liver and gizzard under the pinions. Fill the -body well with fine large fresh oysters, having removed their hard part -or gristle. Add to the oysters a tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and -mace, and a tea-spoonful of celery seed or minced celery, and a piece of -fresh butter dredged with flour. With this, stuff the turkey very full; -securing the stuffing with packthread. Put the turkey into a large -block-tin kettle, and let it stew in the oyster liquor only, without any -water. Strain the oyster liquor before you put it in. Set the kettle -into an outer kettle full of boiling water. This will cook the turkey -very nicely. For such purposes, nothing is so convenient as the utensil -called in French a _bain marie_, (pronounced _bine marée_.) This is a -permanent double kettle with two covers, and a large tube or spout -outside, for pouring in fresh hot water, without opening the lid and -letting out the steam. They are to be had of all sizes at the furnishing -stores in New York and Philadelphia, and are so excellent for stewing -without water, that no family should be without them. - -When the turkey is well boiled and quite done, keep it warm by wrapping -it closely in a cloth, putting a dish cover over it, and placing it near -the fire. A fine oyster gravy will be found in the kettle. Add to it -some fresh butter, dredged with flour, and some mace and nutmeg, and -some celery seed. Give it one boil up, and send it to table as sauce for -the turkey. This is a very nice way of cooking a small turkey. - -A pair of oyster chickens may be thus prepared, and stewed in the above -manner in a _bain marie_, or double kettle. - - -ROAST TURKEY.--Take a fine large turkey, full-grown and fat, draw and -singe him carefully, saving the giblets (neck, heart, gizzard, and -liver,) for the gravy. After he is drawn, wash the inside well, wipe it -dry, and sprinkle it with black pepper. Make a large quantity of -stuffing or forcemeat. It increases his apparent size, and besides is -generally liked. Mince small some cold boiled ham, in equal portions of -fat and lean: grated lemon rind, minced sweet herbs, fresh butter, or -finely minced suet. Add plenty of grated bread-crumbs or crumbled rusk; -also, hard-boiled yolk of egg crumbled. Moisten the mixture with lemon -juice and some good white wine. Stuff the turkey well with this -forcemeat, sewing it up, or winding a small cord round the body to -secure the filling. Roast it before a clear and substantial fire, -basting it well with fresh butter. When done, take it up and keep it -hot. - -Cut up the giblets and put them into a small sauce-pan, with a very -little water, and stew them while the turkey is roasting; adding a piece -of fresh butter dredged with flour. When done, remove the pieces of -neck, &c., retaining those of the heart, liver, and gizzard. Stir into -the gravy, after it comes from the fire, the yolk of a beaten egg. -Having skimmed the gravy in the dripping-pan, add it to the gravy that -has been made of the giblets, and send it to table in a sauce-boat. -Accompany the turkey with an oval dish, or tureen of cranberry sauce, -made very sweet. - -A roast turkey may be stuffed with oysters, or with chestnuts boiled, -peeled, and mashed with butter. If with chestnuts, thicken the gravy -with whole boiled chestnuts. If with oysters, send oyster-sauce to table -with the turkey. If chestnuts cannot be obtained, any roasted poultry is -good stuffed with well-boiled sweet potatos, mashed with plenty of -butter or meat drippings. - -The legs of turkeys are never helped to any one at table. They are -always sent away on the dish. - - -A BONED TURKEY.--For this purpose you must have a fine, large, tender -turkey; and after it is drawn, and washed, and wiped dry, lay it on a -clean table, and take a very sharp knife, with a narrow blade and point. -Begin at the neck; then go round to the shoulders and wings, and -carefully separate the flesh from the bone, scraping it down as you -proceed. Next loosen the flesh from the breast, and back, and body; and -then from the thighs. It requires care and patience to do it nicely, and -to avoid tearing or breaking the skin. The knife should always penetrate -quite to the bone; scraping loose the flesh rather than cutting it. When -all the flesh has been completely loosened, take the turkey by the neck, -give it a pull, and the whole skeleton will come out entirely from the -flesh, as easily as you draw your hand out of a glove. The flesh will -then fall down, a flat and shapeless mass. With a small needle and -thread, carefully sew up any holes that have accidentally been torn in -the skin. - -Have ready a large quantity of stuffing, made as follows:--Take three -sixpenny loaves of stale bread; grate the crumb; and put the crust in -water to soak. When quite soft, break them up small into the pan of -grated bread-crumbs, and mix in a pound of fresh butter, cut into little -pieces. Take two large bunches of sweet marjoram; the same of sweet -basil; and one bunch of parsley. Mince the parsley very fine, and rub to -a powder the leaves of the marjoram and basil. You should have two large -heaping table-spoonfuls of each. Chop, also, two very small onions or -shalots, and mix them with the herbs. Pound to powder a quarter of an -ounce of mace; and two large nutmegs. Mix the spices together, and add a -tea-spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper. Then -mix the herbs, spices, &c., thoroughly into the bread-crumbs, and add, -by degrees, four hard-boiled eggs crumbled fine. - -Take up a handful of this filling; squeeze it hard, and proceed to stuff -the turkey with it--beginning at the wings; next do the body; and then -the thighs. Stuff it very hard; and, as you proceed, form the turkey -into its natural shape, by filling out, properly, the wings, breast, -body, &c. When all the stuffing is in, sew up the body and skewer the -turkey into the usual shape in which they are trussed; so that, if -skillfully done, it will look almost as if it had not been boned. Tie it -round with tape, and bake it three hours or more; basting it -occasionally with fresh butter. Make a gravy of the giblets, chopped, -and stewed slowly in a little water. When done, add to it the gravy that -is in the dish about the turkey, (having first skimmed off the fat,) and -enrich it with a glass of white wine, and two beaten yolks of eggs, -stirred in just before you take it from the fire. - -If the turkey is to be eaten cold at the supper-table, drop -table-spoonfuls of currant or cranberry jelly all over it at small -distances, and in the dish round it. - -A very handsome way of serving it up cold is, after making a sufficiency -of nice clear calves'-foot jelly, (seasoned, as usual, with wine, lemon, -cinnamon, &c.,) to lay the turkey in the dish in which it is to go to -table, and setting it under the jelly-bag, let the jelly drip upon it, -so as to form a transparent coating all over it; smoothing the jelly -evenly with the back of a spoon, as it congeals on the turkey. Apple -jelly may be substituted. - -Large fowls may be boned and stuffed in the above manner: also, a young -roasting pig. - - -ROAST GOOSE.--A goose for roasting should be young, tender, and fat; so -tender, that the skin can easily be torn by a pin; the bill and legs -smooth and of a light yellow color, and the toes breaking when bent -under. If the skin is thick and tough, and the bill and legs a dark -reddish yellow, rough and hairy, do not buy the goose. It is old, and no -cooking can make it eatable. A goose, from its profusion of feathers, -looks like a large bird when walking about; but when plucked and -prepared for the spit, it will be found very deceptive. It is much more -hollow than a turkey; and, except the breast, there is but little eating -on it. In large families it is usual to have a pair of roast geese, one -not being sufficient. Geese are not good except for roasting, or in a -pie. - -In preparing a goose for cooking, save the giblets for the gravy. After -the goose has been drawn, singed well, washed and wiped, inside and out; -trussed so as to look round and short; make a quantity of stuffing, (as -its hollow body will require a great deal.) For this purpose, parboil -two good sized onions, and a large bunch of green sage. Mince both the -sage and onions, seasoning them with a small salt-spoon of salt, half as -much black pepper, and still less cayenne. Add a hard-boiled egg finely -minced (yolk and white;) the chopped egg giving a nice smoothness to the -sage and onion. If your goose is large, take two chopped eggs. - -To make the stuffing very mild, (if preferred so,) add a handful of -finely grated bread-crumbs; or two or three fine juicy chopped apples. -Fill the body and craw with this stuffing, and secure it with a needle -and thread from falling out. Set the goose before a clear, steady -fire--having a little warm water in the dripping-pan to baste it till -the gravy begins to fall. Keep it well basted all the time it is -roasting. It must be thoroughly done all through. Roast it according to -its size, from an hour and a half to two hours or more. - -Boil the giblets in a sauce-pan by themselves, seasoned with a little -salt and pepper, and having among them a bit of butter dredged with -flour. When done, remove the neck, and retain the heart, liver, and -gizzard, cut into pieces, and served in the gravy, which should be well -skimmed. Also, skim carefully the fat off the gravy in the bottom of the -dripping-pan. Put the two gravies together, and serve them up in a gravy -tureen. To eat with the goose, have plenty of apple-sauce, made of fine -juicy apples, stewed very dry, well sweetened, and flavored with the -grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon; or with some rose-water and -nutmeg stirred in after the sauce is taken from the fire. Rose-water -evaporates in cooking, and should never boil or be kept on the fire. A -_bain marie_, or double kettle, is excellent for stewing fruit; putting -the fruit inside, and the water outside. - -For a family dinner a goose is very good stuffed with well-boiled -potatos, mashed smooth, with plenty of fresh butter or gravy. Sweet -potatos make an excellent stuffing. So do boiled chestnuts, mashed with -butter or gravy. - - -GOOSE PIE.--The old fashioned goose pie made with a standing crust, (the -flour being mixed with boiling water, and therefore unfit for eating,) -is now obsolete. They were generally sent as Christmas presents. Besides -the goose, they contained chickens, pigeons, (all boned,) and various -other things. They had standing sides like an oval wall, covered with a -lid of the same paste, having, on the top, a knob, by which to lift off. -These pies were expected to remain good a week; but generally the gravy -became sour in a few days, even in winter, and however carefully kept -from the air. The following is a receipt to make a fine goose pie for -immediate use, and with a nice eatable paste. - -Take a fine plump young goose, and parboil it, (in as little water as -will cover it,) saving the gravy. Having removed the skin, cut all the -flesh from the bones. Make a nice light short paste, allowing a large -half pound of fresh butter to each quart of flour. For a goose pie you -will require two quarts of flour and one pound of butter. Line a deep -pie-dish with one sheet of paste, reserving the other sheet for the lid, -which should be rolled out thick. Put in the pieces of goose, seasoned -with pepper only, interspersing among it the best part of a smoked -tongue, cut in thick round slices. Make a nice forcemeat into balls, -about the size of a hickory nut, and add them to the filling of the pie; -and some chestnuts boiled and peeled; or some round slices of boiled -sweet potato. Having made a gravy of the giblets stewed, pour that over -the other ingredients, filling the pie well, and heaping it high in the -middle. Add a few bits of fresh butter dredged in flour. Pour in the -gravy, and lay on the top the lid of the pie rolled out thick, -ornamenting the edges handsomely. Cut a cross slit in the top, and fit -into it a flower, or tulip cut out of paste. This pie is for dinner -company, and to be eaten warm. - -You may make a similar pie of a pair of fine ducks, either tame or wild. -Canvas-backs and red necks are excellent for this purpose. To eat with -it, have mashed potato, browned all over with a salamander. - -On the shores of our southern rivers, where canvas-backs and other fine -wild ducks are abundant, a pie affords an agreeable variety to the usual -modes of cooking them. - - -A GIBLET PIE.--Clean, very nicely, the giblets of two geese or four -ducks. Put them into a stew-pan, with a sliced onion; a bunch of -tarragon, or sweet marjoram and sage; half a dozen pepper-corns; and -four or five blades of mace. Add a very little water; cover the pan -closely, and let them stew till the giblets are tender. Then take them -out, and save all the gravy; having strained it from the seasoning -articles. Make a rich paste, and roll it out into two sheets. With one -sheet cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Put in the -giblets--mixing among them a few raw potatos sliced very thin, the -chopped yolks of some hard-boiled eggs, and some bits of butter rolled -in flour. Pour the gravy over the giblets, &c. Cover the pie with the -other sheet of paste, and notch the edges. Bake it brown, and send it to -table hot. - -A pigeon pie may be made in a similar manner: also, a rabbit pie. - - -ROAST DUCKS.--Take a pair of fine fat ducks, and having prepared them -nicely for the spit, put them, for a few minutes, into boiling water to -loosen the skin, which must be peeled entirely off, to have them very -nice and tender. Wash their insides by pouring water through them, and -wipe the outside all over with a dry cloth. Fill the body and craw of -one duck with a seasoning of sage and onion, as for a goose. In case -some of the company should have a dislike to onion, fill the other duck -with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, &c., as for turkey. Place -them before a quick fire, but not so near as to scorch. Roast them well, -basting them all the time. Skim the fat off, and pour over the ducks -their own gravy, mixed with what has been made of the necks, livers, -hearts, and gizzards, stewed in a small sauce-pan with some butter -dredged with flour. Send to table with the ducks either cranberry or -apple sauce, made thick and sweet. - -Let them be thoroughly roasted, which will require from an hour to an -hour and a quarter. - - -WILD DUCKS.--To remove the fishy or sedgy taste so often found in wild -ducks, parboil them with a large carrot, cut in pieces, and placed in -the body of each. When the ducks are half boiled, take out the carrot -and throw it away. It will have imbibed all the unpleasant taste, and -taken it away from the ducks. Then cook them as you please. - - -BOILED DUCK.--Prepare for cooking a fine plump tame duck, and lay it -five or six minutes in warm water. Then put it into a clean large bowl -or deep dish, and pour over it a pint of rich boiling milk, in which has -been melted two table-spoonfuls of nice fresh butter. Let the duck soak -in the milk three hours, or till it has absorbed nearly all the liquid. -Next, dredge the duck well with flour. Boil it in cold water for half an -hour, till tender all through. Have ready a quantity of onion sauce made -with milk and butter, and flavored with powdered mace or nutmeg. Cover -the duck all over with the onion sauce, so as to smother it entirely. -Then send it to table hot. This is a French dish, (_canard bouilli_.) - - -DUCKS AND PEAS.--Stuff a fine plump pair of ducks with potato stuffing, -made of boiled potatos mashed very smooth with fresh butter; or, if for -company, make a fine forcemeat stuffing, as for a turkey. Bake the ducks -in an iron oven or bake-pan; and when nearly done, put in with them a -quart of very young green peas, and a few bits of fresh butter, -seasoning slightly with black pepper. When the peas and ducks are all -quite done, serve them all up on one large dish. - - -FRICASSEED DUCKS.--Half roast a pair of ducks. Then cut them apart, as -for carving. If they are _wild_ ducks, parboil them with a large carrot -(cut to pieces) inside of each, to draw out the fishy or sedgy taste. -Having thrown away the carrot, cut the ducks into pieces, as for -carving. Put them into a clean stew-pan, and season them with pepper and -salt. Mix in a deep dish a very small onion minced fine, a -table-spoonful of minced or powdered tarragon leaves, (for which you may -substitute sage and sweet marjoram, if you cannot procure tarragon,) and -two or three large tomatos, scalded, peeled, and quartered, or two large -table-spoonfuls of thick tomato catchup. Put in, also, two -table-spoonfuls of fresh butter rolled in grated bread-crumbs, and a -glass of port wine, claret, or brandy, with a small tea-spoonful of -powdered mace. Cover the pieces of duck with this mixture, and then add -barely as much water as will keep the whole from burning. Cover the pan -closely, and let the fricassee stew slowly for an hour, or till the -duck, &c., are thoroughly done. - -Venison or lamb cutlets may be fricasseed in this manner. Likewise, tame -fat pigeons, which must previously be split in two. This, also, is a -very nice way of dressing hares or rabbits. - - -TO ROAST CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--Having trussed the ducks, put into each a -thick piece of soft bread that has been soaked in port wine. Place them -before a quick fire and roast them from three quarters to an hour. -Before they go to table, squeeze over each the juice of a lemon or -orange, and serve them up very hot with their own gravy about them. Eat -them with currant jelly. Have ready also, a gravy made by stewing slowly -in a sauce-pan the giblets of the ducks in butter rolled in flour, and -as little water as possible. Serve up this additional gravy in a boat. - - -CANVAS-BACK DUCKS DRESSED PLAIN.--Truss the ducks without washing, but -wipe them inside and out with a clean dry cloth. Roast them before a -rather quick fire for half an hour. Then send them to table hot, upon a -large dish placed on a heater. There must also be heaters under each -plate, and currant jelly on both sides of the table, to mix with the -gravy, on your plate; claret or port wine also, for those who prefer it -as an improvement to the gravy. - - -TO STEW CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--Put the giblets into a sauce-pan with a very -little water, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a very little -salt and cayenne. Let them stew gently to make a gravy, keeping the -sauce-pan covered. In the mean time, half roast the ducks, saving the -gravy that falls from them. Then cut them up, put them into a large -stew-pan, with the gravy (having first skimmed off the fat,) and merely -water enough to keep them from burning. Set the pan over a moderate -fire, and let them stew gently till done. Towards the last, (having -removed the giblets) pour over the ducks the gravy from the small -sauce-pan, and stir in a large glass of port wine, and a glass of -currant jelly. Send them to table as hot as possible. - -Any ducks may be stewed as above. The common wild duck, teal, &c., -should always be parboiled with a large carrot in the body to extract -the fishy or sedgy taste. On tasting this carrot before it is thrown -away, it will be found to have imbibed strongly that disagreeable -flavor. - - -BROILED CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--To eat these ducks with their flavor and -juices in perfection, they should be cooked immediately after killing. -If shot early in the morning, they will be found delicious, if broiled -for breakfast. If killed in the forenoon, let them be on that day's -dinner table. When they can be obtained quite fresh they want nothing to -improve the flavor. Neither do red-necks, or the other water fowl that -are found in such abundance on the shores of the Chesapeake. - -As soon as the ducks have been plucked, singed, drawn, and washed, split -them down the back, (their heads, necks, and legs having been cut off,) -rub with chalk the bars of a very clean gridiron, and set it over a bed -of bright lively wood-coals. This gridiron (and all others) should have -grooved bars, so as to save as much of the gravy as possible. Broil the -ducks well and thoroughly, turning them on both sides. They will -generally be done in half an hour. Dish them in their own gravy. The -flesh should have no redness about it when dished. To half broil them on -the gridiron, and to finish the cooking on a hot plate, set over a -heater on the table, renders the ducks tough, and deadens the natural -taste, for which no made-up sauce can atone. You may lay a few bits of -nice butter on them after they are dished. - - -TERRAPIN DUCKS.--Take a fine large plump duck. Cut it in small pieces, -and stew it in merely as much water as will cover it well, and keep it -from burning. Let it stew gently, and skim it well. When it is done take -it out, and cut all the meat off the bones in little bits. Return the -meat to the stew-pan, and lay it in its own gravy. Add the yolks of half -a dozen hard-boiled eggs, and make them into little balls with beaten -white of egg, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter divided into eight -bits, each bit dredged with flour, the grated yellow rind and juice of a -lemon or orange, and a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg. -Let it stew or simmer gently till it comes to a boil, keeping it -covered. When it has boiled, stir in while hot two beaten yolks of raw -egg, and two large wine glasses of sherry or Madeira. Set it over the -fire again for two or three minutes, keeping it covered. Then serve it -up in a deep dish with a cover. - -For company, you must have two ducks, and a double portion of all the -above ingredients. - - -ROAST FOWLS.--Stuff two fowls with a nice forcemeat, made in the best -manner, or with good sausage meat, if in haste. Another nice stuffing -for roast fowls is boiled chestnuts, stewed in butter, or in nice -drippings. Mushrooms cut up and stewed in a very little butter, make a -fine stuffing for roasted fowls. Secure the stuffing from falling out by -winding a twine or tape round the body of the fowl, or sewing it. Roast -the fowls before a very clear fire, basting them with butter. When the -fowls are done, set them away to be kept warm, while you finish the -gravy, having saved the heart, gizzard, and liver, to enrich it. Skim it -well from the fat and thicken it with a very little browned flour. Send -it to table in a sauce-boat. Serve up with roast fowls, dried peach -sauce, or cranberry. Make all fruit sauces very thick and sweet. If -watery and sour, they seem poor and mean. - -Full-grown fowls require, (at least,) an hour for roasting. If very -large, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. - -Nothing can be done with old tough fowls but to boil them in soup, till -they are reduced to rags. The soup, of course, should be made chiefly of -meat. The fowls will add nothing to its flavor but something to its -consistence. - -Capons are cooked in the same manner as other fowls. They are well worth -their cost. - - -BOILED FOWLS.--Take a fine plump pair of young (but full-grown) fowls, -and prepare them for boiling. Those with white or light yellow legs are -considered the best. Make a nice forcemeat stuffing, and fill their -bodies with it, and fasten the livers and gizzards under the pinions. -For boiled poultry they are not wanted in the gravy. Having trussed the -fowls, and picked and singed them carefully, put them into a large pot -containing equal quantities of boiling water and cold water. This will -make it lukewarm. Let them boil steadily for an hour after the simmering -has commenced, carefully removing the scum. - -Serve them up with egg sauce, celery sauce, parsley sauce, or oyster -sauce--or, with cauliflower or broccoli sauce. - -For boiled fowls, you may make a nice stuffing of fresh oysters, cut in -small pieces, but not minced. Omit the gristle. Mix them with an equal -portion of hard-boiled eggs chopped, but not minced fine. Add plenty of -grated bread-crumbs, and season with powdered mace. Mix in, also, some -bits of fresh butter. Where onions are liked, you may substitute for the -oysters some onions boiled and minced. - -Fowls boil very nicely in a _bain marie_, or double kettle, with the -water outside. They require a longer time, but are excellent when done. -To quicken the boiling of a double kettle, put a handful of salt in the -outside water. - -Small chickens, of course, require a shorter time to cook. - - -PULLED FOWL.--This is a side dish for company. Select a fine tender -fowl, young, fat, full-grown, and of a large kind. When quite done take -it out of the pot, cover it, and set it away till wanted. Then, with a -fork, pull off in flakes all the flesh, (first removing the skin,) and -with a chopper break all the bones, and put them into a stew-pan, adding -two calves' feet split, and the hock of a cold ham, a small bunch of -parsley and sweet marjoram, and a quart of water. Let it boil gently -till reduced to a pint. Then take it out. Have ready, in another -stew-pan, the bits of pulled fowl. Strain the liquor from the bones, -&c., over the fowl, and add a piece of fresh butter, (the size of a -small egg,) rolled in flour, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and -nutmeg, mixed. Mix the whole together, and let the pulled fowl stew in -gravy for ten minutes. Serve it hot. - -A turkey may be cooked in this manner, and will make a fine dish. For a -turkey allow four calves' feet. - - -FRIED CHICKENS.--Cut up a pair of nice young fowls, flatten and quarter -them, and season them with cayenne and powdered mace, rubbing it in -well. Put some lard into a heated frying pan over the fire, or if you -have plenty of nice fresh butter use that in preference. When the lard -or butter boils, and has been skimmed, put in the pieces of chicken, and -fry them brown on one side. Then turn them, and sprinkle them thickly -all over with chopped parsley, or sweet marjoram, and fry them brown on -the other side. You may fry with them a few thin slices of cold ham. -Before serving them up drain off the lard you have used for frying. - -When there is no dislike to onions, they may be fried nicely with boiled -onions cut in rings, and laid over the pieces of chicken. - - -BROILED CHICKENS.--These are very dry and tasteless if merely split and -broiled plain, which is the usual way. It seems to be supposed by many -that no chicken is too poor for broiling, and therefore it is often -difficult to get more than two or three small mouthfuls of flesh off -their bones. On the contrary, poor chickens are not worth broiling or -cooking in any way. To have broiled chickens good, choose those that are -fat and fleshy. Having cleaned them well, and washed them, and wiped -them dry, split and divide them into four quarters; flattening the bones -with a steak mallet. They will be much improved by stewing or boiling in -a little water for ten minutes. Then draining them and saving the liquor -for gravy. Boil in this the neck, feet, heart, gizzard and liver. Strain -it after boiling, and save the liver to mash into the gravy. Season the -gravy with grated carrot and minced parsley, or sweet marjoram, and a -little cayenne, adding a small piece of fresh butter dredged in flour. -Have ready plenty of fine bread-crumbs, seasoned with nutmeg, and in -another pan four yolks of eggs well beaten. The quarters of the chickens -having become quite cold, dip each one first into the egg, and then into -the crumbs. Set the gridiron over a clear fire, and broil the chicken -well, first laying down the inside. Having prepared the gravy as above, -give it a short boil, then send it to table in a sauce-boat with the -chickens. - -The excellence of chickens broiled in this way amply repays the trouble. -This is a breakfast dish. - -Serve up with the broiled chicken a dish of mashed potato cakes, browned -with a salamander or red-hot shovel. - - -FRICASSEED CHICKEN.--Have ready a pair of fine plump full-grown fowls -nicely prepared for cooking. Strip off all the skin, and carve the fowls -neatly. Reserve all the white meat and best pieces for the fricassee, -putting them in a dish by themselves, and save all the inferior pieces -or black meat to make the gravy. Season with pepper and salt slightly, -and add a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, and four small bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour. Put the black meat, herbs, &c., into a -stew-pan. Pour in a pint and a half of water, and stew it gently, -skimming off every particle of fat. When reduced to less than one half, -strain the gravy. Arrange the pieces of white meat in a very clean -stew-pan, and pour over them the gravy of the inferior parts; add mace, -nutmeg, and a little cayenne. Mix into half a pint of boiling cream, a -large tea-spoonful of arrow-root, and shake the pan briskly round, while -adding the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, mixed with more cream, (two -table-spoonfuls.) Shake it gently over the fire till it begins to simmer -again, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle in an instant. -Watch it carefully. - -This is a fine side-dish for company. There is no better way of -fricasseeing fowls. A fricassee is not a fry, but a stew. - -Accompany this fricassee with a dish of asparagus tops, green peas, or -lima beans. Also, mashed potatos. - - -CHICKENS STEWED WHOLE.--Having trussed a pair of fine fat young fowls or -chickens, (with the liver under one wing, and the gizzard under the -other,) fill the inside with large oysters, secured from falling out by -fastening tape round the bodies of the fowls. Put them into a tin butter -kettle with a close cover. Set the kettle into a larger pot or saucepan -of boiling water, (which must not reach quite to the top of the kettle,) -and place it over the fire. Keep it boiling till the fowls are well -done, which they should be in about an hour after they begin to simmer. -Occasionally take off the lid to remove the scum, and be sure to put it -on again closely. As the water in the outside pot boils away, replenish -it with more _hot_ water from a tea-kettle that is kept boiling hard. -When the fowls are stewed quite tender, remove them from the fire; take -from them all the gravy that is about them, and put it into a small -sauce-pan, covering closely the kettle in which they were stewed, and -leaving the fowls in it to keep warm. Then add to the gravy two -table-spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, two table-spoonfuls of -chopped oysters, the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs minced fine, half a -grated nutmeg, four blades of mace, and a small tea-cup of cream. Boil -this gravy about five minutes. Put the fowls on a dish and send them to -table, accompanied by the gravy in a sauce-boat. This is an excellent -way of cooking chickens. They do well in large _bain marie_. - - -FOWL AND OYSTERS.--Take a fine fat young fowl, and having trussed it for -boiling, fill the body and craw with oysters, seasoned with a few blades -of mace, tying it round with twine to keep them in. Put the fowl into a -tall strait-sided jar, and cover it closely. Then place the jar in a -kettle of water, set it over the fire, and let it boil at least an hour -and a half after the water has come to a hard boil. When it is done take -out the fowl, and keep it hot while you prepare the gravy, of which you -will find a quantity in the jar. Transfer this gravy to a saucepan, -enrich it with the beaten yolks of two eggs mixed with three -table-spoonfuls of cream, and add a large table-spoonful of fresh butter -rolled in flour. If you cannot get cream, you must have a double portion -of butter. Set this sauce over the fire, stirring it well, and when it -comes to a boil, add twenty-five oysters. In five minutes take it off, -put it into a sauce-boat, and serve it up with the fowl, which cooked in -this manner will be found excellent. - -Clams may be substituted for oysters, but they should be removed from -the fowl before it is sent to table. Their flavor being drawn out in the -gravy, the clams themselves will be found tough, tasteless, and not -proper to be eaten. - - -FRENCH CHICKEN PIE.--Parboil a pair of full-grown, but fat and tender -chickens. Then take the giblets, and put them into a small sauce-pan -with as much of the water in which the chickens were parboiled as will -cover them well, and stew them for gravy; add a bunch of sweet herbs and -a few blades of mace. When the chickens are cold, dissect them as for -carving. Line a deep dish with thick puff paste, and put in the pieces -of chicken. Take a nice thin slice of cold ham, or two slices of smoked -tongue, and pound them one at a time in a marble mortar, pounding also -the livers of the chickens, and the yolks of half a dozen hard-boiled -eggs. Make this forcemeat into balls, and intersperse them among the -pieces of chicken. Add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour, and -then (having removed the giblets) pour on the gravy. Cover the pie with -a lid of puff-paste, rolled out thick; and notch the edges handsomely; -placing a knot or ornament of paste on the centre of the top. Set it -directly into a well-heated oven, and bake it brown. It should be eaten -warm. - -This pie will be greatly improved by a pint of mushrooms, cut into -pieces. Also by a small tea-cup of cream. - -Any pie of poultry, pigeons, or game may be made in this manner. - - -CHICKEN GUMBO.--Cut up a young fowl as if for a fricassee. Put into a -stew-pan a large table-spoonful of fresh butter, mixed with a -tea-spoonful of flour, and an onion finely minced. Brown them over the -fire, and then add a quart of water, and the pieces of chicken, with a -large quarter of a peck of ochras, (first sliced thin, and then -chopped,) and a salt-spoon of salt. Cover the pan, and let the whole -stew together, till the ochras are entirely dissolved, and the fowl -thoroughly done. If it is a very young chicken, do not put it in at -first; as half an hour will be sufficient to cook it. Serve it up hot in -a deep dish. - -You may add to the ochras an equal quantity of tomatos cut small. If you -use tomatos, no water will be necessary, as their juice will supply a -sufficient liquid. - - -[D]FILET GUMBO.--Cut up a pair of fine plump fowls into pieces, as when -carving. Lay them in a pan of cold water, till all the blood is drawn -out. Put into a pot, two large table-spoonfuls of lard, and set it over -the fire. When the lard has come to a boil, put in the chickens with an -onion finely minced. Dredge them well with flour, and season slightly -with salt and pepper; and, if you like it, a little chopped marjoram. -Pour on it two quarts of boiling water. Cover it, and let it simmer -slowly for three hours. Then stir into it two heaped tea-spoonfuls of -sassafras powder. Afterwards, let it stew five or six minutes longer, -and then send it to table in a deep dish; having a dish of boiled rice -to be eaten with it by those who like rice. - - [D] Pronounced Fee_lay_. - -This gumbo will be much improved by stewing with it three or four thin -slices of cold boiled ham, in which case omit the salt in the seasoning. -Whenever cold ham is an ingredient in any dish, no other salt is -required. - -A dozen fresh oysters and their liquor, added to the stew about half an -hour before it is taken up, will also be an improvement. - -If you cannot conveniently obtain sassafras-powder, stir the gumbo -frequently with a stick of sassafras root. - -This is a genuine southern receipt. Filet gumbo may be made of any sort -of poultry, or of veal, lamb, venison, or kid. - - -TOMATO CHICKEN.--Take four small chickens or two large ones, and cut -them up as for carving. Put them into a stew-pan, with one or two large -slices of cold boiled ham cut into little bits; eight or ten large -tomatos; an onion sliced; a bunch of pot-herbs,(cut up;) a small green -pepper, (the seeds and veins first extracted;) half a dozen blades of -mace; a table-spoonful of lard or of fresh butter, rolled in flour; or a -handful of grated bread-crumbs. Add a tumbler or half a pint of water. -Cover the sauce-pan closely with a cloth beneath the lid; set it on hot -coals, or over a moderate fire; and let it stew slowly till the chickens -are thoroughly done, and the tomatos entirely dissolved. Turn it out -into a deep dish. - -Rabbits may be stewed in this manner. Also, veal steaks, cut thin and -small. - - -TURKEY AND CHICKEN PATTIES.--Take the white part of some cold turkey or -chicken, and mince it very fine. Mince also some cold boiled ham or -smoked tongue, and then mix the turkey and ham together. Add the yolks -of some hard-boiled eggs, grated or minced; a very little cayenne; and -some powdered mace and nutmeg. Moisten the whole with cream or fresh -butter. Have ready some puff-paste shells, that have been baked empty in -patty-pans. Place them on a large dish, and fill them with the mixture. - -Cold fillet of veal minced, and mixed with chopped ham, and grated yolk -of egg, and seasoned as above will make very good patties. - - -CHICKEN RICE PUDDING.--Parboil a fine fowl, and cut it up. Boil, till -soft and dry, a pint of rice; and while warm, mix with it a large -table-spoonful of fresh butter. Beat four eggs very light; and then mix -them, gradually, with the rice. Spread a coating of the fresh butter, -&c., over the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Place on it the pieces of -the parboiled fowl, with a little of the liquid in which it was -boiled--seasoned with powdered mace and nutmeg. Add some bits of fresh -butter rolled in flour and a little cream. Cover the dish closely with -the remainder of the rice; set the pudding immediately into the oven and -bake it brown. - -Cold chicken or turkey, cooked the day before, may be used for this -purpose. The pudding may be improved by the addition of a few very -thin, small slices of cold ham, or smoked tongue. - - -RICE CROQUETTES.--Boil half a pound of rice till it becomes quite soft -and dry. Then mix with it two table spoonfuls of rich (but not strong) -grated cheese, a small tea-spoonful of powdered mace, and sufficient -fresh butter to moisten it. Mince very fine, six table-spoonfuls of the -white part of cold chicken or turkey, the soft parts of six large -oysters, and a few sprigs of tarragon or parsley; add a grated nutmeg, -and the yellow rind of a lemon. Mix the whole well, moistening it with -cream or white wine. Take of the prepared rice, a portion about the size -of an egg, flatten it, and put into the centre a dessert-spoonful of the -mixture; close the rice round it as you would the paste round a -dumpling-apple. Then form it into the shape of an egg. Brush it over -with some beaten yolk of egg and then dredge it with pounded crackers. -In this way make up the whole into oval balls. Have ready, in a -sauce-pan over the fire, a pound of boiling lard. Into this throw the -croquettes, two at a time, so as to brown them. Let them brown for a few -minutes; then take them out with a perforated skimmer. Drain them from -the lard, and serve them up hot, garnished with curled parsley. - - -CHICKEN POT-PIE.--Cut up and parboil a pair of large fowls, seasoning -them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. You may add some small slices of -cold ham; in which case use _no salt_, as the ham will make it salt -enough. Or you may put in some pieces of the lean of fresh pork. You may -prepare a suet-paste; but for a chicken pot-pie it is best to make the -paste of butter, which should be fresh, and of the best quality. Allow -to each quart of flour, a small half-pound of butter. There should be -enough for a great deal of paste. Line the sides of the pot, two-thirds -up, with paste. Put in the chickens, with the liquor in which they were -parboiled. You may add some sliced potatos. Intersperse the pieces of -chicken with layers of paste in square slices. Then cover the whole with -a lid of paste, not fitting very closely. Make a cross-slit in the top, -and boil the pie about an hour or more. - -Instead of ham, you may add some clams to the chicken, omitting salt in -the seasoning, as the clams will salt it quite enough. - - -CHICKEN CURRY.--Having skinned a pair of fine chickens, cut them into -six pieces each, that is, two wings, two pieces of the breast, and two -legs cut off at the joint. Put into a stew-pan two boiled onions -chopped, and four ounces or four table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Shake -the pan till the contents begin to simmer; then add four table-spoonfuls -of curry-powder and mix it well in; also, four table-spoonfuls of -grated cocoa-nut. Mix all well in the stew-pan, and then put in the -pieces of chicken. Cover the pan, and let all stew moderately for half -an hour, stirring it round occasionally; and, if getting too dry, add a -little hot water. Also, towards the last, the grated yellow rind of a -lemon and the juice. It should stew till the chicken is quite tender, -and till the flesh parts easily from the bones. Serve it up hot, in a -covered dish, and send half a pound of boiled rice in a separate dish, -_uncovered_. This is a dish for company. - -Young ducks, or a young hen turkey, or a pair of rabbits, may be cooked -in the same manner. Also, lamb or veal. - -For curried oysters, take a hundred large fresh ones, and proceed as -above. - - -RICE PIE.--Pick clean a quart of rice, and wash it well through two or -three waters. Tie it in a cloth, put it into a pot of boiled milk, and -boil it till perfectly soft. Then drain and press it till as dry as -possible, and mix with it two ounces of fresh butter. Take a small tin -butter-kettle; wet the inside, put in the rice, and stand it in a cool -place till quite cold. Then turn it carefully out of the kettle, (of -which it will retain the form,) rub it over with the beaten yolk of an -egg, and set it in an oven till lightly browned. Cut out from the top of -the mass of rice an oval lid, about two inches from the edge, so as to -leave a flat rim or border all round. Then excavate the mould of rice, -leaving a standing crust all round and at the bottom, about two inches -thick. Have ready some hot stewed oysters or birds, or brown or white -fricassee. Fill up the pie with it, adding the gravy. Lay on the lid, -and decorate it with sprigs of green curled parsley, stuck in all round -the crack where the lid is put on. - -This pie may be filled with curried chicken. - - -COUNTRY CAPTAIN.--This is an East India dish, and a very easy -preparation of curry. The term "country captain," signifies a captain of -the native troops, (or Sepoys,) in the pay of England; their own country -being India, they are there called generally the country troops. -Probably this dish was first introduced at English tables by a Sepoy -officer. - -Having well boiled a fine full-grown fowl, cut it up as for carving. -Have ready two large onions boiled and sliced. Season the pieces of -chicken with curry powder or turmeric; rubbed well into them, all over. -Fry them with the onion, in plenty of lard or fresh butter, and when -well-browned they are done enough. Take them up with a perforated -skimmer, and drain through its holes. It will be a great improvement to -put in, at the beginning, three or four table-spoonfuls of finely grated -cocoa-nut. This will be found an advantage to any curry. - -Serve up, in another dish, a pint of rice, well picked, and washed -clean in two or three cold waters. Boil the rice in plenty of water, -(leaving the skillet or sauce-pan uncovered;) and when it is done, drain -it very dry, and set it on a dish before the fire, tossing it up with -two forks, one in each hand, so as to separate all the grains, leaving -each one to stand for itself. All rice for the dinner table should be -cooked in this manner. Persons accustomed to rice never eat it watery or -clammy, or lying in a moist mass. Rice should never be covered, either -while boiling, or when dished. - -We recommend this "country captain." - - -CURRIED EGGS.--Boil six fresh eggs till they are hard enough for salad, -and then set them away to get cold. Mix together, in a stew-pan, three -ounces (or three large table-spoonfuls) of nice fresh butter, and three -dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder. Shake them together for five minutes -over a clear but moderate fire. Then throw in two boiled onions finely -minced, and let them cook, gently, till quite soft, adding three ounces -or three large spoonfuls of grated cocoa-nut. Cut the eggs into rather -thick slices. Put them into the mixture, with a small tea-cupful of -thick cream, or if you cannot obtain cream, with two more spoonfuls of -butter dredged with flour. Let the whole simmer together, but when it -approaches coming to a boil, take it immediately off the fire and serve -it up hot. This is a nice side-dish for company. - - -PARTRIDGES PEAR FASHION--(_French dish._)--Your partridges should be -fine and fat, and of the same size. For a large dish have three or four. -Truss them tight and round, and rub over them a little salt and cayenne, -mixed. Cut off one of the legs and leave the other on, fill them with a -nice forcemeat. Make a rich paste of flour, butter, and beaten egg, -using as little water as possible. Be sure to make enough of paste to -cover each partridge entirely over, and roll it out evenly, and rather -thick than thin. Put a sufficient portion of paste nicely round each -partridge, pressing it closely and smoothly with your hand, and forming -it into the shape of a large pear. Leave one leg sticking out at the top -to resemble the stem, having cut off the foot. Set them in a pan, and -bake them in a dutch oven. In the mean time, make in a small sauce-pan, -a rich brown gravy of the livers, and other trimmings of the partridges, -and some drippings of roast veal or roasted poultry. It will be better -still if you reserve one or two small partridges to cut up, and stew for -the gravy. Season it with a little salt and cayenne. When it has boiled -long enough to be very thick and rich, take it off, strain it, and put -the liquid into a clean sauce-pan. Add the juice of a large orange, made -very sweet with powdered white sugar. Set it over the fire, and when it -comes to a boil, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Let it boil two -or three minutes longer; then take it off, and keep it hot till the -partridges and their paste are thoroughly well baked. When done, stand -up the partridges in a deep dish, and serve up the gravy in a -sauce-boat. Ornament the partridge-pears by sticking some orange leaves -into the end that represents the stalk. This is a nice and handsome side -dish, of French origin. - -Pigeons and quails may be dressed in this manner. - - -SALMI OF PARTRIDGES--(_French dish._)--Having covered two large or four -small partridges with very thin slices of fat cold ham, secured with -twine, roast them; but see that they are not too much done. Remove the -ham, skin the partridges, cut them into pieces, and let them get quite -cold. Partridges that have been roasted the preceding day are good for -this purpose. Cut off all the meat from the bones, season it with a -little cayenne, and put it into a stew-pan. Mix together three -table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, a glass of excellent wine, (either red or -white,) and the grated peel and juice of an orange. Pour this gravy over -the partridges, and let them stew in it during ten minutes; then add the -beaten yolk of an egg, and stew it about three or four minutes longer. -All the time it is stewing, continue to shake or move the pan over the -fire. Serve it up hot. - - -ROASTED PARTRIDGES, PHEASANTS, AND QUAILS.--Make a stuffing of fat bacon -finely minced, and boiled chestnuts or grated sweet potatoe boiled, -mashed, and seasoned with pepper only. Fill the birds with this. Cover -them with thin slices of bacon, and wrap them well in young vine leaves. -Roast them well, and serve them up in the bacon and vine leaves, to be -taken off when they come to table. For company, have orange sauce to eat -with them. If you roast pigeons, &c., without a covering of bacon and -vine leaves, do them with egg and bread-crumbs all over. - -If these birds have a bitter taste when cooked, do not eat them. It is -produced by their feeding on laurel berries in winter, when their food -is scarce. Laural berries are poisonous, and people have died from -eating birds that have fed on them. - - -BIRDS WITH MUSHROOMS.--Take two dozen reed-birds, (or other nice small -birds,) and truss them as if for roasting. Put into each a button -mushroom, of which you should have a heaping pint after the stalks are -all removed. Put the birds and the remaining mushrooms into a stew-pan. -Season them with a very little salt and pepper, and add either a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter (divided into four, and slightly rolled in -flour,) or a pint of rich cream. If cream is not plenty, you may use -half butter and half cream, well mixed together. Cover the stew-pan -closely, and set it over a moderate fire, to stew gently till the birds -and mushrooms are thoroughly done and tender all through. Do not open -the lid to stir the stew, but give the pan, occasionally, a hard shake. -Dip in hot water a large slice of toast with the crust trimmed off. -When the birds are done lay them on the toast with the mushrooms around. - -If you cannot get button-mushrooms, divide large ones into quarters. - -Plovers are very nice stewed with mushrooms. - - -BIRDS IN A GROVE--(_French dish._)--Having roasted some reed-birds, -larks, plovers, or any other small birds, such as are usually eaten, -mash some potatos with butter and cream. Spread the mashed potato -thickly over the bottom, sides, and edges of a deep dish. Nick or crimp -the border of potatoe that goes round the edge, or scollop it with a tin -cutter. You may, if you choose, brown it by holding over it a -salamander, or a red-hot shovel. Then lay the roasted birds in the -middle of the dish, and stick round them and among them, very thickly, a -sufficient number of sprigs of curled or double parsley. - - -THATCHED HOUSE PIE--(_French dish._)--Rub the inside of a deep dish with -two ounces of fresh butter, and spread over it two ounces of vermicelli. -Then line the dish with puff-paste. Have ready some birds seasoned with -powdered nutmeg, and a very little salt and pepper. Place them with the -breast downward. They will be much improved by putting into each a -mushroom or an oyster chopped fine. Lay them on the paste. Add some -gravy of roast veal, (cold gravy saved from veal roasted the preceding -day will do very well,) and cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste. Bake -it in a moderate oven, and when done, turn it out _carefully_ upon a -flat dish, and send it to table. The vermicelli, which was originally at -the bottom, will now be at the top, covering the paste like thatch upon -a roof. Trim off the edge, so as to look nicely. You may, if you choose, -use a larger quantity of vermicelli. The yellow sort will be best for -this purpose. - - -BIRDS PREPARED FOR LARDING.--Cut a thin slice of fresh veal, and fill -the bird with it, adding a bit of fat bacon. Tie a string round the body -to keep in the stuffing, and roast the bird head downward. The gravy of -the meat will diffuse a pleasant taste all through the bird. - -After being well roasted, let it get cold, and then lard it all over the -breast with lardons or regular slips of fat bacon, put in with a larding -needle, and left standing in rows. It is more easy to lard poultry or -game when cold, rather than warm. Lardons should be set very close and -evenly. - - -BIRD DUMPLINGS.--Take a large tender beef steak, trim off all the fat, -and remove the bone. Make a large sheet of nice suet paste. Lay the beef -steak upon it, seasoned with pepper and a very little salt. In the -centre of the meat place either a partridge, a quail, a plover, or any -nice game, or three or four reed-birds--season with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Add some bits of excellent fresh butter, dredged with flour. -Inclose the birds completely in the steak, so that the game flavor may -pervade the whole. Close the crust over all, so as to form a large -dumpling. Tie it in a cloth. Put it into a pot of fast-boiling water, -and boil it well, turning it several times with a fork. Dish it very -hot. - -If game is not convenient, a fine tame fat pigeon may be substituted. - - -TO ROAST WOODCOCKS OR SNIPES.--Be very careful in plucking these to pull -out the feathers as carefully and handle them as lightly as possible; -for the skin is very easily torn or broken. Do not draw them, for -epicures have decided, that the trail, (as they call the intestines,) is -the most delicious part of the bird, and should by all means be saved -for eating. Having wiped the outside carefully with a soft cloth, truss -them with the head under the wing, and the bill laid along upon the -breast. Keep the legs bent from the knees, retaining that posture by -means of a splinter skewer. Suspend the birds to a bird-spit, with their -feet downward. Melt some fresh butter in the dripping-pan, and baste -them with it, having first dredged the birds with flour. Before the -trail begins to drop, (which it will do as soon as they are well -heated,) lay a thick round of very nice toast, (with the crust pared -off,) buttered on both sides, and placed in the dripping-pan beneath, so -as to catch the trail as it falls; allowing a slice of toast to each -bird, with the trail spread equally over it. Continue the basting, -letting the butter fall back from them into the basting spoon. When the -birds are done, which will be in less than half an hour at a brisk -fire--carefully transfer the toasts to a very hot dish; place the birds -upon them, and pour some gravy round the toast. - -Snipes require less cooking than woodcocks. These birds are very -fashionable; but we do not think either of them superlative. They seldom -appear except at supper parties. - - -PLOVERS.--This is a very nice bird, with a peculiar and pleasant flavor. -They abound near our large bays and estuaries in the vicinity of the -ocean. There are two sorts, the green plover and the gray. Roast them -plain; basting them only with butter. Or fill them with a forcemeat, and -go entirely over the outside, first with beaten egg, and then roll each -plover in finely grated bread-crumbs. - -If very fat, stew them plain in butter rolled in flour. Then serve them -up in their own gravy, enriched with a beaten egg. They make a nice -breakfast dish, either roasted or stewed. And are excellent in pies. - - -REED BIRDS.--Reed birds and rice birds are the same. They are very -small, (only a mouthful on each side of the breast,) but very delicious, -and _immensely fat_ in the summer and autumn. They are brought to market -with a lump of fat skewered on the outside, and are sold by the dozen -strung on a stick like cherries. - -To cook them, roast them on a bird-spit, basting with their own fat, as -it drips. A nice way for retaining the whole flavor is to tie each bird -closely in a vine leaf, and bake them in a dutch oven. Or wrap them in -double vine leaves, and roast them in the ashes of a wood fire. Remove -the vine leaves before the birds are dished. - - -ROASTED PIGEONS.--Take fine fat _tame_ pigeons, and clean and truss them -nicely. Four pigeons, at least, are requisite to make a dish. Prepare a -stuffing or forcemeat of finely minced veal, and an equal quantity of -cold-boiled ham, seasoned with powdered mace and a very little cayenne. -Also, two slices of bread and butter soaked in as much milk as they will -absorb. Fill their bodies with this, (tying a string round to keep it -in,) and roast the pigeons till thoroughly done; basting with fresh -butter or lard. - -Or you may stuff the pigeons with chopped mushrooms, seasoned with a -little cayenne, and putting into each a piece of fresh butter rolled in -flour. - -Or you may stuff them with sweet potatos, boiled well, and mashed with -plenty of fresh butter. Or with chestnuts, boiled, peeled, and mashed -with butter. - -Wild pigeons are generally too poor to roast. In places where they -abound, it has been found very profitable to catch them in nets, clip -their wings, and put them into inclosures, feeding them well with corn -so as to make them fat. They will then bring as high a price as tame -pigeons. - - - - -SAUCES. - - -MELTED BUTTER.--_For Sauces._--This is frequently called Drawn Butter. -For this purpose none should be used but fresh butter of the very best -quality. It is usually sent to table with boiled fish and boiled -poultry. Also, with boiled mutton, lamb, and veal. It is never served up -with any thing roasted, fried or broiled. Numerous sauces are made with -melted butter. If mixed with too much flour and water, and not enough of -butter, it will be very poor, particularly if the water is in too large -proportions. To prepare it properly, allow a quarter of a pound of nice -butter, to a heaped table-spoonful of flour. Mix the butter and flour -thoroughly, _before_ it goes on the fire. Then add to it four large -table-spoonfuls of milk, or hot water, well mixed in. Hold it over the -fire in a small sauce-pan, kept for the purpose. One lined with what is -called porcelain or enamel is best. Take care there is no blaze where -the sauce-pan is held. Cover it, and shake it over the fire till it -boils. Then having skimmed it, add three or four hard-boiled eggs -chopped small, and give it one more boil up; or season it with any other -ingredient with which you wish to distinguish the sauce. - - -CLARIFIED BUTTER.--For this purpose use none but the very best fresh -butter, such as is made in summer, when the cows are well pastured. Cut -up the butter, put it into an enameled or porcelain stew-pan, and melt -it gently over a clear and moderate fire. When it simmers, skim it -thoroughly, draw it from the fire, and let it stand five minutes, that -the milk or sediment may sink to the bottom. Then pour it clear from the -sediment through a muslin strainer, or a fine clean hair sieve. Transfer -to jars with close covers, and keep them in a cool dry place. If well -prepared, and originally very good, this butter will answer for sauces, -stews, &c., and continue good a long time. In France, where they do not -_salt_ any butter, large quantities are melted in this way for winter -use. - - -COLORING FOR SAUCES.--_For Pink Sauce._ Take a few chips of red alkanet -root, (to be had at the druggist's.) Pick it clean, and tie it in a very -thin muslin bag. Put the alkanet into the mixture, and let it infuse in -the boiling drawn butter. It will communicate a beautiful pink color, -which you may heighten, by pressing the bag a little. When done, take -out the bag, and stir the alkanet color evenly through the sauce. The -alkanet has no taste, and is very cheap. Beet juice will color a -tolerable red. - -_For Green Sauce._--Pound some fresh spinach leaves, till you extract a -tea-cup or more of the clear green juice. Stir it into the melted butter -while boiling. - -_For Yellow Sauce._--Tie up a very little turmeric powder in a muslin -bag. Let it boil in the butter. When done, take it out of the sauce-pan, -and stir the yellow coloring evenly through the sauce. - -_For White Sauce._--Make this with cream instead of milk. - -_For Brown Sauce._--Stir in plenty of French mustard. - -_For Wine Sauce._--Stir in, just before you take the sauce from the -fire, a large wine-glass or more of _very good_ white wine, and grate in -half a large nutmeg, adding the grated yellow rind, and the juice of a -lemon. The wine must be of excellent quality, otherwise it will give a -bad taste to the sauce. - - -WHITE THICKENING--(_French Roux._)--Cut up a quarter of a pound of the -best fresh butter, and put it into a well tinned or enameled sauce-pan. -Set it over a moderate fire, and melt it slowly, shaking it round -frequently, and taking care to skim it well. When no more scum appears -on the surface, let it settle a few minutes; then pour it off from the -sediment at the bottom. Wash the sauce-pan or get another clean one. -Return the melted butter to it, and set it again over the fire. Then -dredge in gradually sufficient sifted flour to make it very thick and -smooth, stirring it well after each addition of flour. Do not allow it -to brown in the slightest degree, but keep it perfectly white to the -last; simmering, but not actually boiling, and take care that there is -no smoke about the fire. - -To thicken white sauces, or soups, stir in a table-spoonful or two of -this roux, pronounced _roo_. In French cooking it passes for cream. - -Browned thickening is made in the same manner; but with butter and -browned flour, and is used for brown soups and gravies. - - -BROWNING.--This is to enrich the taste and improve the color of gravies, -stews, and soups. Mix a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar with -two ounces of fine fresh butter; and, having stirred them well together, -put them into a sauce-pan over the fire, and simmer till it begins to -froth; then diminish the heat a little. When its color becomes a fine -dark brown, add two glasses of port wine, and three or four blades of -mace, powdered. When it comes to a boil, take it off, and stir it into -whatever you intend to color. - -Another browning is mushroom catchup, or walnut catchup. They -communicate a slightly acid taste. So also does French mustard. Stir it -in at the last. Its tarragon flavor is very generally liked. - - -BROWNED FLOUR.--Sift some fine flour, spread it on a large dish, or -clean tin-pan. Place it before the fire, so as to brown but not to -scorch or burn. It will color first at the edges; therefore watch it, -and keep it evenly mixed with the white flour from the centre. When all -is nicely browned, set it to cool, and then put it away for use in a -large clean bottle or jar, well corked. Flour may be browned in an oven, -after baking is over, taking care to stir it well.--Have two dredging -boxes. One for browned flour and one for white. It is convenient also to -have dredging-boxes for powdered herbs. The cost of these boxes is very -trifling, and it saves time and trouble to have things ready when -wanted. A small sieve for powdered white sugar is indispensable. - - -LOBSTER SAUCE.--This sauce is for fresh salmon or turbot, or -sheep's-head fish. Also for salmon-trout, blue-fish, or the lake -white-fish. - -Put a large hen lobster into a hard-boiling pot of highly-salted water, -that the animal may die immediately. Continue the boiling with a steady -heat, and in about three quarters, or an hour, the lobster will be done. -When cold, extract all the meat from the shell, and cut it into small -bits. Pound the coral, or red substance, in a marble mortar, with some -fresh butter, or plenty of salad oil; and a little cayenne. Add the -coral to the cut-up lobster, and put the whole into a stew-pan, with -some powdered mace and nutmeg, and a large table-spoonful of sweet oil. -Divide into four bits a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, each bit -rolled in flour. If your butter is not fresh and very good, omit it -entirely and substitute a larger quantity of oil. As bad butter spoils -every thing, never on any account, use it. Set the sauce-pan over the -fire, and let it boil up once. Then take it off, and while very hot, -stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. - -Crab sauce is made in the same manner. Prawn sauce also. - - -SHRIMP SAUCE.--Shrimps are the smallest shell-fish of the lobster -species. Put them into salted boiling water. They are done when they -have turned entirely red. When cold, pull off the heads, and peel off -the shells from the bodies; or _squeeze_ out the meat with your fingers. -Have ready some nice drawn butter, and thicken it with the shrimps, -either chopped or whole. Season the sauce with mace or nutmeg powdered, -and give it one boil up. Shrimp sauce is eaten with salmon and other -fine fish. - - -PICKLED SHRIMPS.--Having boiled, in salted water, three quarts or more -of shrimps, and taken them from the shells, boil two quarts of the best -cider vinegar, and season it well with blades of mace and pepper-corns, -and pour it hot on the shrimps, in a stone jar. Cork the jar, and seal -the cork with the usual red cement for pickle jars: a mixture of -one-third beeswax with two-thirds powdered rosin, and some fine -brickdust, all melted together. - - -OYSTER SAUCE.--Take a pint of the liquor of _fresh_ oysters, and strain -it into a sauce-pan. If your oysters are salt, and you can get no -others, boil a pint of milk instead of the oyster liquor, seasoning with -powdered nutmeg and mace, and enriching it with fresh butter dredged -with flour. When it has come to a boil, put in the oysters (having -removed from each the gristle, or hard part.) Let them simmer, but take -them from the fire without letting them come to a boil, which will -shrivel them, and render them tough and tasteless. A new fashion is to -season oyster sauce with the grated yellow rind and juice of a fresh -lemon. Others stir in a glass of sherry or Madeira. If you use wine or -lemon, you must not make the sauce with milk, as it will curdle. Use in -this case the oyster liquor, if it is fresh, thickened well with finely -grated bread-crumbs. The small, highly-flavored oysters, abounding on -the coast of New England, are excellent for sauce, or soups. - - -CLAM SAUCE.--Make this of half milk and half clam liquor, seasoned with -whole mace, and whole pepper. Use only the soft part of the clams, cut -up small, and simmer them from the beginning; adding bits of butter -dredged all over with flour Clams require longer cooking than oysters. - - -EGG SAUCE.--Boil four eggs from eight to twelve minutes. Then lay them -in a pan of fresh water, and let them remain till quite cold. Peel off -the shells, and take out the eggs. Chop the yolks and whites separately; -mix them, lightly, into half a pint of melted fresh butter, made in the -proportion of a quarter of a pound of butter to two large -table-spoonfuls of flour, and four of milk and hot water. Add some -powdered mace, or nutmeg. Egg sauce is eaten with boiled fish and -poultry. - -Instead of milk or water, you can use for melted butter, some of the -water in which chicken or turkey was boiled, or some veal gravy. - - -CELERY SAUCE.--Split and cut up into short slips a bunch of celery, -having taken off the green leaves from the tops. The celery must have -been well washed, and laid an hour in cold water. Take a pint of milk, -and cut up in it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter that has been well -dredged with flour. Set it over the fire in a sauce-pan, and add the -celery gradually; also three or four blades of mace broken up. Boil all -slowly together, till the celery is quite soft and tender, but not -dissolved. The green tops of the celery, (strewed in, when it begins to -simmer,) will improve the flavor. Celery sauce is served up with boiled -turkey, boiled fowls, and with any sort of fresh fish, boiled or fried. - - -MINT SAUCE.--This is only used for roast lamb in the spring. When the -lambs are grown into sheep, the mint is too old for sauce. But they -harmonize very pleasantly when both are young. - -Take a large bunch of fine fresh green mint, that has been washed well. -Strip the leaves from the stems, and mince them small. Put it into a -pint bowl, and mix with it gradually some of the best cider vinegar. -This sauce must not be the least liquid, but as thick as horse-radish -sauce or thicker. Make it very sweet, with the best brown sugar. Mix it -well, and transfer to a small tureen, or a little deep dish with a -tea-spoon in it. Serve it up always with roast lamb, putting a -tea-spoonful on the rim of your plate. - -A quart or more of mint sauce, made as above, but with a larger -proportion of sugar and vinegar, will keep very well for several weeks, -in a jar well corked. - - -HORSE-RADISH.--Wash clean some roots of horse-radish, wipe them dry, and -scrape off the outside. Then grate the sticks of horse-radish with a -large grater. Put some of the grated horse-radish into a large saucer, -or small deep plate, and moisten it with good cider vinegar, but do not -put so much vinegar as will render it liquid. Send it to table with -roast beef or mutton. - - -CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.--Have ready some very rich good melted or drawn -butter, made with milk and flavored with nutmeg. Thicken it with plenty -of ready-boiled cauliflower, cut into little sprigs or blossoms. Give it -one boil up after the cauliflower is in, and send it to table with any -sort of boiled poultry. It will be found very nice. For a boiled turkey -it is far superior to celery sauce, and well suited to dinner company. - - -BROCCOLI SAUCE.--Make some nice drawn butter with milk. Flavor it with -powdered mace. Pound some spinach in a mortar to extract the juice. -Strain the spinach juice, and stir a small tea-cupful into the butter to -give it a fine green color. Have ready some well-boiled broccoli. Divide -one or two heads of the broccoli into tufts or sprigs. Put them into the -melted butter, and when it comes to a boil, take it off, and transfer it -to a sauce-boat. Serve it up with boiled poultry or fresh fish. - - -PARSLEY SAUCE.--Strip from the stalks the leaves of some fresh green -parsley; allow plenty of it. Chop it slightly; and while the drawn -butter is hot, stir into it the parsley, till the butter looks very -green. Serve it up with boiled fowls, rabbits, or boiled fish. The -appearance of parsley sauce will be much improved by stirring in some -spinach juice. The whole will be then a fine green. - - -CRIMPED PARSLEY.--Pick the small sprigs of parsley from the large -stalks. Wash it, and then throw it into clean cold water. After the meat -or fish that it is to accompany has been fried and taken out of the pan, -give the fat that remains a boil up, and lay the parsley into it. It -will crimp and still continue green, if not kept frying too long. Take -it out, drain it, and place it before the fire a few minutes, to dry it -from the fat. Dish it laid on the top of the fish or steaks. - - -FENNEL SAUCE.--The fennel should be young and fresh. Take a large -handful, or more, and having washed it clean, strip the leaves from the -stems, and boil it till quite tender. Put it into a sieve, and press the -water well from it. Mince it very small, and stir it into drawn butter. - -It is served up with boiled fish. - -Instead of melted butter, you may put the fennel into veal gravy, -thickened with butter dredged with flour. - - -SAGE AND ONION SAUCE.--Take a bunch of fresh sage leaves. Wash and drain -them. Pick them from the stems, and put them to boil in a small -sauce-pan, with just water enough to cover them. Boil them fast about -ten minutes. Take them out, and press them in a sieve to drain them dry. -Then mince or chop them small. Have ready two onions, boiled tender in -another sauce-pan; chop them also, and mix them well with the minced -sage. While warm, mix in a small bit of nice butter--season with pepper. -Put this sauce into a little tureen, and serve it up with roast goose, -roast duck, or roast pork, that has been stuffed with potato, bread, or -other stuffing. The sage and onion sauce is for those who prefer their -flavor to any other seasoning for those dishes. - -This sauce will be greatly improved if moistened with some of the gravy -of the duck or goose. - - -FINE ONION SAUCE.--Peel some nice mild onions, and boil them in plenty -of milk, skimming them well. When done, take them out of the milk, -(saving it,) and slice them very thin, cutting the slices across, so as -to make the pieces of onion very small. Return them to the sauce-pan of -milk, (adding some fresh butter dredged with flour;) season them with -powdered mace or nutmeg, and give the onions another boil, till they are -soft enough to mash, and to thicken the milk all through. Eat this sauce -with steaks, cutlets, rabbits, or chickens. - - -PLAIN ONION SAUCE.--Peel some very small onions, and boil them whole in -milk, (seasoned slightly with pepper and salt,) and put in some bits of -butter rolled in flour. Let them boil till tender all through, but not -till they loose their shape. Eat them with any sort of boiled meat. - - -NASTURTION SAUCE.--This is eaten with boiled mutton; is superior to -caper sauce, and costs almost nothing, if you have nasturtions in your -garden. Gather the green seeds as soon as they are full grown, and throw -them (without the stems) into a jar of cider vinegar. They require no -cooking, but keep a muslin bag of spice in the jar, (mace and nutmeg -broken small, and a little piece of root ginger.) To use them for sauce, -make some nice drawn butter, and as it simmers throw in plenty of -nasturtions from the jar. The seeds, when gathered, should be full -grown, but by no means hard; and the color a fine green. If there is the -slightest brown tinge, the nasturtion seeds are too old, and should be -kept for planting. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE.--Have ready some excellent drawn butter, and thicken it -with small button mushrooms that have been pickled. Or, take -freshly-gathered mushrooms of good size, rub off the outer skin with a -clean flannel, and cut off the stems close to the flaps. Wash the -mushrooms in a cullender. Have ready some bits of fresh butter dredged -all over with flour. Lay them among the mushrooms, (which, if very -large, should be quartered,) and put them into a stew-pan. Cover the -pan, and let them stew till the mushrooms are all tender. When you take -off the lid to try them, replace it immediately, keeping in as much of -the aroma as possible. If fresh, they will yield a great deal of juice. -When done, transfer them to a sauce-tureen, and serve them up with any -nice dish of meat or poultry. - -The best mushrooms are found in pure open air or rather high ground, and -where there is no swamp or woodland. On the upper side of their top they -are not white, but of a pale grayish tint; the under side is invariably -light red, pinkish, or pale salmon color, which in a few hours, or after -being gathered, turns brown. The false mushrooms are poisonous. They are -entirely white above and below. The fungi that grow in forests or -marshes can never be mistaken for real mushrooms. They are of various -colors, chiefly bright yellow and red, and originate in foul air. By -boiling a silver tea-spoon with your mushrooms, you may test their -goodness. If the silver turns black, throw the mushrooms away. An onion -will also blacken from the same cause. Mushrooms should be cooked as -soon as possible. If kept two or three days, worms will be found in -them. Never give mushrooms to children. Even in their best state they -are not wholesome. The taste for mushrooms is an acquired one, and it is -best not to acquire it. - - -TOMATO SAUCE.--Scald some large ripe tomatos, to make them peel easily. -Then quarter them, and press them through a sieve to divest them of -their seeds. Put the juice into a stew-pan, adding some bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour; add finely grated bread-crumbs, and season -with a little pepper, and, if liked, a little onion boiled and minced. -Set the pan over a moderate fire, and let the tomatos simmer slowly till -it comes to a boil. Continue the boiling ten minutes longer. Serve it up -in a sauce-tureen. It will be mellowed and improved by stirring in (as -soon as it comes to a boil) a table-spoonful or a lump of white sugar. - - -TARRAGON SAUCE.--Put into a sauce-pan a large half pint of any nice -gravy that is at hand. After it has boiled five minutes, have ready a -handful of fresh green tarragon leaves, minced, and moistened with -plenty of cider vinegar. Add this to the gravy, and let it simmer five -minutes. Then take it out, and serve it up with any kind of boiled -poultry. - - -TO MAKE GRAVY.--Take two pounds of the lean of veal, or of very nice -beef. Cut it into small bits, and lay it in a sauce-pan with only as -much water as will cover it. Stew it slowly, (skimming it well) till the -meat is all rags. Then strain the gravy, and thicken it with some bits -of fresh butter dredged all over with browned flour, and give it -another simmer. You may flavor it with any seasoning you like. - -For made gravies, you can use any small pieces of fresh meat that has -never been cooked, and the feet of calves and pigs. Boil in it also such -vegetables as you like, cut small. Strain out every thing before it goes -to table. For gravies, use nothing that has been cooked before. They -will not add to its goodness, but only render it flat and washy. - -White gravy is made with fresh veal boiled in milk; and after straining, -thickened arrow-root, or rice flour, mixed with fresh butter, if real -cream cannot be obtained. - - -MUSHROOM CATCHUP.--Let the mushrooms be large and freshly-gathered, for -they soon become worm-eaten if not speedily salted. They should be well -examined. Cut off the stalks of four quarts of nice mushrooms. Put the -flaps into a deep earthen pan, and break them up with your hands. Strew -among them half a pound of salt, reserving the largest portion of it for -the top. Let them stand for three days, stirring them gently every -morning. The fourth day, put them into a sieve, and draw off the liquor -without pressing the mushrooms. When all the liquor has drained through, -measure it, allowing to each quart a tea-spoon of cayenne, a dozen -blades of mace, and a nutmeg broken up. Put the whole into a porcelain -kettle, and boil it slowly till reduced one half. Then pour it into a -clean white-ware pitcher, cover it with a folded napkin, and keep it in -a cool dry place till next day. Then, through a funnel, pour it gently -from the sediment into small bottles. Finish with a tea-spoonful of -sweet oil on the top of each. Cork the bottles tightly, and seal the -corks. - -The next time you make catchup, proceed as above with the new mushrooms, -and other ingredients; and, when it is done, strain it, and put it into -a clean kettle. Then add to it a quart of _last year's_ mushroom -catchup, and boil it a quarter of an hour. Then bottle it as above. - -This double catchup is very fine. - - -WALNUT CATCHUP.--Take two hundred walnuts or butter-nuts, while the -green shell is still so soft that you can pierce it with the head of a -pin. Bruise them to small pieces, in a marble mortar. Transfer them to a -broad stone-ware pan, and stew among them six handfuls of salt. Stir -them three times a day, for ten days or two weeks. Then squeeze and -strain them through a cloth, pressing them very dry, till no more juice -comes out. Boil up the liquor with two quarts of cider vinegar, half an -ounce of mace, half an ounce of whole pepper, half an ounce of nutmegs -broken up, and two roots of ginger cut small, and half a dozen shalots -or small onions, peeled and cut up, and a large bunch of sweet herbs. -Let the whole boil for half an hour. Then pour off the liquor into a -large pitcher, leaving out the bunch of sweet herbs. Pour off the liquor -(through a funnel,) into small bottles, having first put into the bottom -of each bottle a portion of the spice. Fill the bottle up to the top -with the catchup, finishing with a tea-spoonful of salad oil, which will -greatly assist in keeping the catchup good. Cork the bottles very -closely, and seal the corks. - - -TOMATO CATCHUP.--Take a peck of large ripe tomatos. In the middle States -they are in perfection the last of August. Late in the autumn they are -comparatively insipid and watery. Cut a slit down the side of every -tomato. Put them into a large preserving kettle without any water. Their -own juice is sufficient. On no account boil tomatos in brass or copper, -their acid acting on those metals produces verdigris, and renders them -poisonous. Boil them till they are quite soft, and easily mashed, -stirring them up frequently from the bottom. Press and mash them through -a hair sieve, till all the pulp has run out into the pan below, leaving -in the sieve only the skins and seeds. Season the liquid with a little -salt, some cayenne, and plenty of powdered nutmeg and mace. Mix it well, -and when cold put up the catchup in small jars, the covers pasted all -round with bands of white paper. This catchup, when done, should be very -thick and smooth. - - -LEMON CATCHUP.--Take six fine large ripe lemons, and roll them under -your hand to increase the quantity of juice. Grate off all the yellow -rind, and squeeze the juice into a pitcher, removing all the seeds. -Prepare two ounces of finely scraped horse-radish, and two ounces of -minced shalots, or very small onions. Put them into a pint of boiling -vinegar, in which half an ounce of bruised ginger and a quarter of an -ounce of mace have been simmered for five minutes. Add to this the -lemon-juice and the grated peel, and two grated nutmegs. Boil all -together for half an hour, and then transfer it with all the ingredients -to a glass jar with a lid. Paste a band of strong white paper round the -lower part of the lid. Set it in a dry cool place, and leave it -undisturbed for three months. Then, through a funnel, pour off the -liquid into small bottles, putting a tea-spoonful of salad oil at the -top of each. Cork and seal them. - - -CUCUMBER CATCHUP.--For a small quantity of this catchup, take twelve -fine full-grown cucumbers, and lay them an hour in cold water. Then pare -them, and grate them down into a deep dish. Grate also two small onions, -and mix them with the grated cucumber. Season the mixture to your taste -with pepper, salt, and vinegar, making it of the consistence of very -thick marmalade or jam. When thoroughly amalgamated, transfer it to a -glass jar. Cover it closely, tying over it a piece of bladder, so as to -render it perfectly air-tight. - -It will be found very nice, (when fresh cucumbers are not in season,) to -eat with beef or mutton. And if properly made, and securely covered, -will keep well. It should be grated very fine, and the vinegar must be -of very excellent quality--real cider vinegar. - - -CAMP CATCHUP.--Take a pint or quart of strong ale or porter, and a pint -of white wine; half a dozen shalots, or very small onions, peeled and -minced; half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, broken up; and -two large roots or races of ginger, sliced. Put all together, over a -moderate fire, into a porcelain-lined kettle, and boil it slowly till -one-third of the liquid is wasted. Next day transfer it to small -bottles, putting a portion of the seasoning in the bottom of each, and -filling them to the top with the liquid. Finish with a tea-spoonful of -salad oil at the top. Cork the bottles with good corks, and seal them. -In a dry place this catchup will keep for years. - - -TARRAGON VINEGAR.--The fresh leaves of the tarragon plant are in -perfection in July and August, and impart a new and pleasant taste to -soups, hashes, gravies, &c. To use it fresh, wash a bunch of tarragon in -cold water. Afterwards strip off the green leaves, chop or mince them, -and boil a tea-spoonful or more in the dish you intend to flavor. The -best way of keeping tarragon is to strip off as many fresh leaves as -will half fill a glass jar that holds a quart. Pour on as much _real_ -cider vinegar as will fill up the jar. Cover it closely, and let the -tarragon infuse in it for a week, shaking the jar every day. Then pour -off that vinegar carefully, and throw away the tarragon leaves that have -been steeping in it. Wash that jar, or take another clean one, put into -it the same quantity of fresh tarragon leaves, and fill up with the same -vinegar in which you have infused the first supply. Let the second -leaves remain in the jar of vinegar. A tarragon bush is well worth -planting; even in a small city garden. - -Tarragon is the chief ingredient of French mustard. - - -FINE FRENCH MUSTARD.--Take a jill or two large wine-glasses of tarragon -vinegar, (strained from the leaves,) and mix with it an equal quantity -of salad oil, stirring them well together. Pound in a mortar, two ounces -of mustard seed till it becomes a fine smooth powder, and mix it -thoroughly. Add to it one clove of garlic (not more) peeled, minced and -pounded. Make the mixture in a deep white-ware dish. If the mustard -affects your eyes, put on glasses till you have finished the mixture. -When done, put it up in white bottles, or gallipots. Cork them tightly, -and seal the corks. Send it to table in those bottles. - -This mustard is far superior to any other, the tarragon imparting a -peculiar and pleasant flavor. - -It is excellent to eat with any sort of roast meat, particularly beef or -mutton, and an improvement to almost all plain sauces, stews, soups, &c. - -French mustard is to be purchased very good, at all the best grocery -stores. - - -SAUCE ROBERT.--Peel five large onions, and parboil them to take off some -of the strength. Cut them into small dice, and put them into a stew-pan -with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four, and -dredged with flour. When they are well browned, pour on them half a pint -of beef or veal gravy, and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour. -Season it slightly with cayenne. Just before it goes to table, stir in a -table-spoonful of French mustard. - -This is a good sauce for any sort of roast meat, or poultry. - - -GREEN MAYONNAISE.--This is a fine accompaniment to cold poultry, which -must be cut into small pieces as for chicken salad, using only the white -meat. To begin the mayonnaise. Put into a shallow pan the yolks only of -three fresh eggs, having strained out the specks. Having beaten them -till light and thick, add, by degrees, a half pint of salad oil, -stirring it in gradually, so that no oil whatever is to be seen on the -surface. Then add two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Next a few -drops of shalot vinegar, or a _very small_ onion minced as finely as -possible. If you have at hand any clear meat gravy (for instance, -veal,) stir in two or three table-spoonsful. Add the grated yellow rind, -and the juice of a lemon. Pound as much spinach as will yield a small -tea-cupful of green juice. Give it a short boil up, to take off the -rawness, and mix it with the mayonnaise. When cool, pour it over the -dish of cold poultry. - - -EPICUREAN SAUCE.--Pound in a mortar five or six anchovies; a heaped -table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves; a shalot, or very small onion, -two or three pickled gherkins, finely minced; the yolks of four -hard-boiled eggs, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a large -table-spoonful of French mustard. If you have no good butter, mix a -sufficient portion of olive oil to moisten it well. Let the whole be -thoroughly mixed. Put it into a bowl, and set it on ice till wanted. -Then mould it into pats of equal size. Arrange them on small glass or -china plates, and send them to table for dinner company, to eat with the -cheese. - - -EAST INDIA SAUCE FOR FISH.--Mix well together a jill of India soy; a -jill of chili vinegar; half a pint of walnut catchup, and a pint of -mushroom-catchup. Shake the whole hard, and transfer it to small green -bottles, putting a tea-spoonful of sweet oil at the top of each, and -keep the sauce in a cool dry place. If you have not a fish castor, bring -the store sauces to table in the small bottles they are kept in. When -eating fish, mix a little of this with the melted butter on your plate. - - -CURRY POWDER.--Curry powder originates in India, where it is much used -as a peculiar flavoring for soups, stews, and hashes. With curry dishes, -boiled rice is always served up, not only in a separate dish, but also -heaped round the stew in a thick even border. To make curry powder, -pound in a marble mortar three ounces of turmeric, three ounces of -coriander seed, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne; one ounce of -mustard, one ounce of cardamoms, a half ounce of cummin seed, and half -an ounce of mace. Let all these ingredients be thoroughly mixed in the -mortar, and then sift it through a fine sieve, dry it for an hour before -the fire, and put it into clean bottles, securing the corks well. Use -from two to three table-spoonfuls at a time, in proportion to the size -of the dish you intend to curry. - -It may be mixed into the gravy of any of the preceding receipts for -stews. Two ounces of finely grated cocoa-nut is a pleasant improvement -to curried dishes, and is universally liked. - -The curry powder you buy is frequently much adulterated with inferior -articles. The best curry powder imported from India is of a dark green -color, and not yellow or red. It has among its ingredients, tamarinds, -_not_ preserved, as we always get them--but raw in the shell. These -tamarinds impart a pleasant acid to the mixture. For want of them use a -lemon. - - -MADRAS CURRY POWDER.--Pound separately, and sift, six ounces of -coriander seed, three of turmeric, one of black pepper, two of cummin, -one of fennel seed, and half an ounce of cayenne. Mix all together, put -them into a glass jar or bottle, and seal the cover. - -With less turmeric, you may use ginger or sassafras. - -Curry powder may be added to any stew of meat, poultry, or game. Boiled -rice must always accompany a dish of curry. - -The ingredients indispensable to all curries (and you may make a curry -of any nice meat, or poultry, or even of oysters) is a very pungent -powder, prepared for the purpose with turmeric. Also onions and boiled -rice. In India there is always something acid in the mixture, as lemons, -sour apple juice, or green tamarinds. The turmeric has a peculiar flavor -of its own. - - -STORE SAUCES.--The celebrated English sauces, for fish and game, -Harvey's sauce, (which is the best,) Quin's, Reading's, Kitchener's, -Soyer's, &c., are all very good, and keep well, if genuine. They are -imported in small sealed bottles, and are to be had of all the best -grocers. To make them at home, is so troublesome and expensive, that it -is better to buy them. They are, however, very nice, and are generally -introduced at dinner parties; a little being mixed on your plate with -the melted butter. If you have no fish castors, bring these sauces to -table in their own bottles, to be carried round by a servant. - - -FINE PINK SAUCE.--Take a pint of excellent port wine, the juice and -grated yellow rinds of four large lemons, two dozen blades of mace and a -large nutmeg, broken up; with a quarter of an ounce of prepared -cochineal, or a small tea-spoonful of alkanet chips. Add a -table-spoonful of fresh salad oil. Mix the whole well in a wide-mouthed -glass jar with a lid. Let the ingredients infuse a fortnight; stirring -it several times a day. Then strain it, pour it through a funnel into -small bottles, and seal the corks. It will give a fine pink color to -drawn butter. Eat it with any sort of fish or game. - -Alkanet produces a much finer color than cochineal, but it must unite -with some substance of an oily nature to give out its color to -advantage. It is very cheap, and very beautiful, and to be had at the -druggist's. Infuse it tied in a thin muslin bag. - - -WINE SAUCE FOR VENISON OR GAME.--Take the half of a sixpenny loaf of -bread. Cut off all the crust. Put the crumb (or soft part) into a bowl, -and pour on sufficient good port wine to steep it. Soak the bread in the -wine till dissolved. Then add two heaped table-spoonsful of fresh -butter, and two heaped spoonsful of sugar; seasoning with powdered mace -and nutmeg, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon. Beat all -together till very smooth. Put it into a sauce-pan, and give it one boil -up; taking it off as soon as it comes to a boil. Send it to table hot. -It is a fine company sauce for venison, or hare, or any sort of game. - - -FINE PUDDING SAUCE.--Take a large half-pint cup of the best fresh -butter, and the same quantity of powdered loaf-sugar. Put them together -in an earthen pan, and beat them to a light thick cream. Then mix a jill -or wine-glass of boiling water, and a large wine-glass of the best -brandy, with the grated yellow rind and juice of a large lemon or -orange; and a small nutmeg, grated. Mix these ingredients, gradually, -with the beaten butter and sugar; and transfer the sauce to a small -tureen, putting a spoon or ladle into it. - -If designed for sauce to a plum-pudding or any other large one, you will -require a pint of butter, a pint of sugar, half a pint of boiling water -with half a pint of brandy, two lemons or oranges, and a _large_ nutmeg, -or two small ones. Divide the sauce in two tureens. A boiled pudding for -company requires no finer sauce than this. - -Where _real_ cream is plenty, a bowl of it well sweetened with sugar, -and flavored with nutmeg, is nice for any boiled pudding. If you add -wine or lemon juice to cream sauce, previously mix the acid with the -sugar, and make it very sweet before you put them to the cream, lest it -should curdle. - - -VANILLA SAUCE.--Split and break up a small stick of vanilla, and boil it -in a very little milk, till all the vanilla flavor is extracted. Then -strain it through very fine muslin, and stir it into the cream. Give it -one boil up in a small porcelain sauce-pan; and sweeten it well with -white sugar. - - -PLAIN SAUCE FOR PUDDING.--Stir together (as in making pound cake) equal -quantities of fresh butter and white sugar. This is the usual -proportion; but if you can stir or beat it easily, try a little less -butter, and a little more of the sugar. Grate in some nutmeg, and the -yellow rind of a fresh lemon, and send it to table heaped on a small -plate, with a tea-spoon near it.[E] - - [E] The butter and sugar sauce is very nice flavored and colored with - the juice of strawberries or raspberries. - -Many persons prefer, with plain puddings, cold butter on a butter plate, -and sugar from the sugar-bowl; mixing it for themselves on their own -plate. This is best for boiled fruit pudding or dumplings; and for egg -or batter puddings, molasses or syrup is very good; and costs but -little. - - -CRANBERRY SAUCE.--Pick the cranberries clean, seeing that no stems, -sticks, or dead leaves are left among them. Put them into a cullender, -or sieve, and wash them through two waters. Cook them in a -porcelain-lined, or enameled stew-pan, without any additional water. The -water that remains about them after washing is quite sufficient for -stewing them properly. No stewed fruit should be too thin or liquid. -Keep a steady heat under the cranberries, stirring them up from the -bottom frequently: and when they are soft, mash them with the back of -the spoon. When they are quite shapeless, take them off the fire, and -while they are very hot, stir in, gradually, an ample quantity of nice -_brown_ sugar. They require much sweetening. Season them with nothing -else. Their natural flavor is sufficient (if well sweetened) and cannot -be improved by spice, lemon, or any of the usual condiments. Always buy -the largest and ripest cranberries. The best things are cheapest in the -end. - -In stewing any sort of fruit, do not add the sugar till the fruit is -done, and taken from the fire. If sweetened at the beginning, much of -the strength of the sugar evaporates in cooking; besides rendering the -fruit tough and hard, and retarding the progress of the stew. - -In America, sweet sauce is eaten with any sort of roast meat. Send it to -table cold. For company, put it into a blanc-mange mould, and turn it -out in a shape, first dipping the mould, for a minute, in warm water to -loosen it. - - -APPLE SAUCE.--Get fine juicy apples--bellflowers are the best for -cooking. Sweet apples cook very badly--becoming tough, dry and -tasteless. Green apples, if full grown, cook well, and have a pleasant -acid. - -For sauce, pare, core, and quarter or slice the apples. Wash the pieces -in a cullender, and put them to stew, with only water enough to wet them -a little. Apple stews that are thin and watery are disgraceful to the -cook, or to the cook's mistress. Let them stew till you can mash them -easily all through. Then take them off the fire, and sweeten them, -adding the seasoning while the apples are warm. Season with rose-water, -lemon juice, nutmeg; or with all these if for company. If you can get -fresh lemon-peel, cut it into very thin slips, and put it in to stew -with the apples at first. It is still better, and little more trouble, -to grate the lemon-peel. - -Fruit for pies should be stewed in the same manner as for sauce, and not -sweetened till taken from the fire. Let the paste be baked empty in -large deep plates, and when cool, filled to the brim with stewed fruit. -A pie, (as we have seen them,) only half or one third full, looks very -meanly--and tastes so. - -All these fruit-sauces are good receipts for stewing fruit for pies or -any other purpose. - -We advise all families to have, among their kitchen utensils, _bain -maries_, or double-kettles, putting the article to be stewed in the -inner kettle, and the boiling water in the outside one. They are to be -had of all sizes at the furnishing stores. They are also excellent for -custards and boiled puddings. - - -BAKED APPLE SAUCE.--Core very nicely as many fine juicy apples as will -fill a large baking-pan. All coring of apples should be done with a tin -cover. This you can buy at a tinman's for a quarter dollar, and it is -invaluable for the purpose. After coring the apples, pare them smooth -and evenly. Put a large table-spoonful of cold water in the bottom of -the baking-pan, and then put in the apples first, filling, with fine -brown sugar, the hole from whence the core was taken out. To have them -very nice, add some grated lemon-peel, or some rose-water. Set the pan -into an oven, (not too hot,) close the oven, and bake till the apples -are all broken and can be easily mashed. This way of making apple sauce, -by baking in a close oven, will be found far superior to boiling or -stewing them. They require no more water than is barely sufficient to -give them a start at the bottom. - -The flavoring (sugar, lemon, or rose,) may be deferred till the apples -are baked, taken out of the oven and mashed. Then mix it in while hot. - -Boiled apple sauce is usually spoiled with too much water, rendering it -the consistence of thin pap, weak, washy, and mean. - - -GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.--Get fine full-grown green gooseberries. Pick them -over, and top and tail them. Wash them in a cullender or sieve through -two waters. Put them into an enameled stew-pan, with only the water -remaining on them after washing, and no sugar till after they are stewed -to a mash, and taken from the fire. Then while hot, stir in brown sugar -enough to make them very sweet. Serve them up cold. For company, before -they are sweetened, press them through a sieve, using only the pulp. -Then add the sugar; and mould the whole in a form. - - -CURRANT SAUCE.--Take fine ripe currants, and strip them from the stems. -Put them into a pan, and mash them with a large spoon, or a wooden -beetle. Stew them in their own juice (no water,) and sweeten them when -they are taken from the fire. For company, press the fruit through a -sieve before you add the sugar, and shape it in a mould. - -It will answer every purpose of regular currant jelly, to eat with game, -venison, &c. - - -RIPE PEACH SAUCE.--Take juicy freestone peaches; pare and stone them, -and cut them up. Save all the juice, and stew them in it. When quite -soft, take them off the fire, and sweeten them. The flavor will be much -improved by stewing with them a bunch of fresh peach leaves, to be taken -out when the peaches are done. Or, if you cannot readily obtain the -leaves, a handful of the fresh peach kernels, stewed with the fruit, -(and to be taken out afterwards,) will answer the purpose. - -It is well, even in the sunny side of a city garden, to plant two peach -stones; so that when they grow into trees, you may have peach leaves at -hand for improving the flavor of custards, and other things. Unless the -trees are perfectly healthy, and the leaves green, do not use them. - - -DRIED PEACH SAUCE.--The richest and best dried peaches, are those that -are dried with the skins on. The skins (however thick,) entirely -dissolve in cooking, and become imperceptible when the fruit is well -stewed. It is a great error to pare peaches for drying. Apples _must_ be -pared, for the skin is tougher than that of peaches, and does not -dissolve in cooking. - -To prepare dried peaches for stewing, pick them over carefully, throwing -away all the imperfect pieces. Wash them in two cold waters, and then -put them into a stew-pan, (_adding no water_,) and stew them till they -are quite soft, and shapeless, and mash easily and smoothly in the pan. -Sweeten them with plenty of brown sugar, as soon as they come off the -fire. - - -DRIED APPLE SAUCE.--Wash the dried apples through a cullender, and put -_a very little water_ with them in the stew-pan. Being rather insipid, -they require some additional flavor. Add cinnamon, or other spice of -any sort you like, and the yellow rind of a fresh lemon or orange, pared -very thin and cut into slips. When these apples are well stewed and -mashed, sweeten them. - -We believe, that when dried peaches can be procured, few will buy dried -apples; they are so far inferior; being the poorest of dried fruit. - -Dried cherries also are scarcely worth cooking, even if they _have_ been -stoned. Being tough and indigestible, they are very unwholesome, except -for rough, hard-working people. If the stones are left in, dried -cherries are fit for nothing. - - -DAMSON SAUCE.--Having stewed the damsons in their own juice, till all -the stones slip out, (and can be easily removed with a spoon, when taken -from the fire,) make them very sweet by stirring in a large portion of -brown sugar. - -Damsons, cranberries, and gooseberries require more sugar than any other -fruit. - - -FINE PRUNE SAUCE.--Wash a pound of prunes, and stew them in orange -juice, adding the yellow rind of an orange, pared so fine as to be -transparent--or grate it. Stir them up frequently, and when quite done, -and the stones are all loose, sweeten the prunes with plenty of sugar. - -Prune sauce is eaten with venison, or any sort of game; or with roast -kid or fawn--or with roast pig. - - -CHESTNUT SAUCE.--Take the large Spanish chestnuts. Cut a slit in the -side of each, and roast them well. Peel them, and put them into a -saucepan of very rich melted butter. If you use American chestnuts, boil -them till quite soft, (trying two or three to ascertain,) then peel, and -thicken your melted butter with them. American chestnuts are too small -to roast. - - -PEA-NUT SAUCE.--Having roasted and shelled a pint of pea-nuts, or -ground-nuts, remove the thin brown skin, and simmer the nuts in melted -or drawn butter; adding some fine fresh oysters, omitting the gristle. - - - - -VEGETABLES. - - -All vegetables are best when fresh, as can easily be discovered by the -difference between those newly brought from the garden, and those that -have been kept in a provision shop till next day, (and perhaps longer,) -imbibing the atmosphere of meat, fish, poultry, and a variety of things, -each becoming impure from the same causes; not to mention the rats, -mice, and insects which run over them at night. You cannot have -vegetables in perfection without a country garden. But if obliged to -depend upon the market or the provision shops, always have your -vegetables washed and laid in cold water before cooking. Some are best -when put on to boil in cold water; others require boiling water at the -beginning, to give them what the cooks call a quick start. All should be -thoroughly done throughout. If hard in the centre they are unpalatable, -and very unwholesome; even worse than underdone meat. Use but very -little salt in cooking vegetables; too much renders them hard, and -overpowers their real taste. Also, it is easy for the lovers of salt to -add more when at table. When vegetables are done, and taken out the pot, -drain them well through a cullender or sieve, carefully pressing out all -the water that is about them. There is generally, in our country, too -much water allowed to the vegetables. Merely enough to cover them well, -and keep them from burning, is in most cases sufficient. In France, so -little water is used in cooking vegetables, that they are rather stewed -than boiled, and are the better for it. A puddle of greasy water in the -bottom of every vegetable dish is a disgusting sight; and yet how -frequently it is seen. If of every-day occurrence, it is a certain -indication of a bad cook, or an inefficient mistress, or both. - -Almost all green vegetables should be thrown into fast-boiling water, -and cooked rapidly; first washing them carefully, and laying them for -half an hour in a large pan of cold water. If found frozen in the -winter, be sure to thaw them in cold water. Continue the boiling till -they are thoroughly done, and with a steady heat, taking off the scum -as it rises. - -It is very usual in the spring to bring early vegetables from the south, -for the markets of Philadelphia and New York. By the time they reach us -they are faded, withered, tough and unwholesome. It is better to wait a -week or two longer till the season is a little more advanced, and the -farms and gardens of our neighborhood can supply our own markets, at a -far less cost, and with fresher and better vegetables. - -The water in which vegetables have been boiled becomes very unwholesome, -and should be thrown out immediately. - - -BOILED POTATOS.--To have boiled potatos in perfection they should all be -of a good sort and as nearly as possible of the same size. Till it is -time to cook them, let the slight mould or earth that has adhered to the -potatos in digging, be carefully washed off, even scrubbing them with a -hard brush. This can be done very conveniently, by laying them under the -hydrant or pump, washing them there with a broom, and letting the water -run on them. - -An iron pot is the best of all things for boiling potatos, as it retains -the heat longer than any other utensil. Lay them in it, closely and -compactly, and pour in barely sufficient cold water to cover them well, -adding a tea-spoonful of salt. Simmer them till nearly done, which you -may ascertain by probing all through with a fork. You may quicken the -fire for the last five minutes. Pour off all the water from them as soon -as they are tender all through. Lift the lid of the pot at one side to -allow the steam to pass off, and set them beside the fire, or on a -trevet far above it, till the moisture has escaped; the potatos will -then be dry and mealy. Then peel them; or if preferred, send them to -table with the skin on, which will keep them hot longer. - -If the potatos are old, cut a piece of skin (about the size of a -sixpence) from the top and bottom before boiling; or, take off a long -slip from each side. In the spring, when quite old, cut out all the -blemishes, pare the potatos, and always boil them for mashing. - - -ROAST POTATOS.--Potatos for roasting should always be large and fine. If -small, "they go all to skin." Select those that are nearest of a size, -and wash them very clean, and wipe every one with a cloth. Put them into -an oven, and let them roast or bake for more than two hours, turning -them with a fork. Dish them in the skins, and send only cold butter to -table with them. Bake sweet potatos in the same manner, but much longer. -Small sweet potatos should be boiled; as, when small, they are not worth -cooking in any other way; and when roasted there is scarcely any thing -of them, but tough shriveled skin. - - -BAKED POTATOS.--Pare some fine potatos all about the same size, and -cover with them the whole bottom of a large deep earthen dish; lay them -close together so that they all touch. Bake them under a nice piece of -beef, veal, or pork, raised above them on a trivet. The gravy from the -meat will drip upon them as soon as it begins to bake. They must bake -till they are nicely browned, and till a fork will easily go through -them. Have a smaller dish of potatos baked without meat, in a dish by -themselves, as potatos pared before baking are much liked. Lay some bits -of fresh butter among those that are cooked without any meat. - - -TO BOIL NEW POTATOS.--Rub each one with a coarse cloth to clear off the -skin, it being too thin for paring. Wash them well, and cut a small -piece off the top and bottom of each potato, to make them boil tender -all through. Put no salt in the water, and boil them till soft. Serve -them plain, and eat them with cold butter--or, put them into a -sauce-pan, and stew them in butter. - - -MASHED POTATOS.--Having boiled the potatos till tender all through, -drain them very dry in a cullender, and mash them smoothly with a potato -beetle, a large wooden spoon, or a short-handled wooden ladle. When all -are nicely mashed, add gradually plenty of fresh butter, and some cream -or rich milk. On no account spoil the potatos by putting any water to -them, when mashing. Put them into a deep dish or mould, and brown them -with a salamander. - - -POTATO CAKES.--After the mashed potatos are mixed with butter in a deep -earthen pan, beat them with a wooden spoon to render them very light. -Then make them up into thick flat cakes, about the size of a muffin, and -brown each with a salamander. - - -COUNTRY POTATOS.--Having boiled and peeled some fine newly-dug potatos, -melt some butter in a sauce-pan, with cream, instead of flour and water, -and pour it plentifully into the dish of potatos; seasoning with black -pepper and sweet marjoram leaves. Where cream is plenty, this is a very -nice way of cooking. Serve them up with the sauce poured over them, and -around them. They must be well boiled, and tender all through. - - -FRIED POTATOS.--The potatos must be raw, large, unblemished, and of a -good round shape. First take off a thin paring of the skin. Then, pare -the whole potato round and round, (not too thin,) till you have gone -through it all, and nothing is left unpared but a little lump in the -centre. Then put these continuous rings of potato into a frying-pan, in -which is boiling plenty of fresh butter, or butter and lard mixed. Fry -them brown and tender, and arrange them handsomely in a dish for -breakfast. - -_Another Way._--Slice thin a sufficiency of fine raw potatos, and lay -them in a pan of cold water to soak for an hour or more. Then pour off -that water entirely, and replace it with fresh. Let them remain in this -for another hour, or till it is time to cook them. Put them into a -frying-pan that has in it plenty of fresh butter or lard, enough, while -frying, to keep the potatos near the surface. Fry them till perfectly -well done and tender. - -Attempting to re-cook cold potatos renders them more hard and tough. - -When once cold, potatos always remain indigestible, cook them as you -will. - - -STEWED POTATOS.--Having pared some fine raw potatos, quarter them, and -put them into a stew-pan with a little salt, pepper, and some green -sweet marjoram stripped from the stalks, and scattered among the -potatos. Put them into a stew-pan with milk enough to prevent their -burning, and some fresh butter--no water. If you can get cream -conveniently, add some to the milk. Cover the pan, and let the potatos -stew, till, on trying them with a fork, you find them thoroughly cooked, -and soft and tender all through. If not sufficiently done, they are -hard, tough, leathery, and unfit to eat. - -They are very good stewed entirely in the dripping of cold gravy of -roast beef, veal, or pork--but not mutton, as that will give them the -taste of tallow. This is a nice breakfast dish. Cold potatos re-cooked -never again become good. After potatos once become cold, no cooking can -restore them. - - -STEWED SWEET POTATOS.--These should first be scraped or pared. Then cut -into pieces, and stewed as above. - - -BOILED CABBAGE.--All cabbage should be well washed, and boiled in a -large quantity of water with a little salt; the loose or faded leaves -being stripped from the outside. They should always be cut or split in -two, or in four pieces if very large. Cut the stalk short, and split it -up to where the leaves begin. Put it on in boiling water, and keep it -boiling steadily till quite done, which will not be till the stalk is -tender throughout. If a young summer cabbage, split it in half, and when -well boiled, and drained and pressed in a cullender, serve it up with a -few bits of cold fresh butter, laid inside among the leaves. Season it -with pepper. This is a much nicer and easier way, than to make drawn -butter, and pour over the outside of the cabbage. - -Sprouts and very young greens, require nothing more than to be well -washed, boiled and drained. In the country, cabbage sprouts are commonly -boiled with bacon. - -Savoy cabbage is considered the finest sort. It is a late autumn and -winter cabbage. If very large, split it in four. Do not boil it with -meat. The fat will render it strong and unwholesome. Still worse, when -melted butter is added to a cabbage already saturated with the fat of -corned beef. - - -AN EXCELLENT WAY OF BOILING CABBAGE.--Having trimmed the cabbage, and -washed it well in cold water, (examining the leaves to see that no -insects are lurking among them,) cut it almost into quarters, but do not -divide it entirely down at the stem, which should be cut off just below -the termination of the leaves. Let it lie an hour in a pan of cold -water. Have ready a pot _full_ of boiling water, seasoned with a small -tea-spoonful of salt. Put the cabbage into it, and let it boil for an -hour and a half, skimming it occasionally. Then take it out; put it into -a cullender to drain, and when all the hot water has drained off; set it -under the hydrant. Let the hydrant run on it, till the cabbage has -become perfectly cold all through. If you have no hydrant, set it under -a pump, or keep pouring cold water on it from a pitcher. Then, having -thrown out all the first water, and washed the pot, fill it again, and -let the second water boil. During this time the cabbage under the -hydrant will be growing cold. Then put it on again in the second water, -and boil it two hours, or two and a half. Even the thickest part of the -stalk must be perfectly tender all through. When thoroughly done, take -up the cabbage, drain it well through the cullender, pressing it down -with a broad ladle to squeeze out all the moisture; lay it in a deep -dish, and cut it _entirely_ apart, dividing it into quarters. Lay some -bits of fresh butter among the leaves, add a little pepper, cover the -dish, and send it to table hot. - -Cooked in this manner it will be made perfectly wholesome, and the -usually unpleasant cabbage smell will be rendered imperceptible. We -recommend it highly. - - -CALE CANNON.--Boil in one pot a fine large cabbage, and when done, drain -and press it in a cullender till all the water is squeezed out. Have -boiled in another, four or five large mealy potatos. Peel and mash the -potatos, and chop the cabbage small. Mix the cabbage and the potatos -evenly, in one large dish, and season them with black pepper; adding -some bits of nice butter. Cale cannon is a plain family dish, but is -very good, when all the dinner corresponds. - - -FRIED CABBAGE.--Parboil a fine cabbage. When half-boiled, take it out, -drain it, and lay it awhile in cold water, to remove the cabbage smell. -Next put it into a clean pot of fresh water, and boil it again till -thoroughly done. Afterwards, chop it small, season it with pepper and -salt, and fry it in fresh butter. - -A less delicate way is to fry it in boiling lard, taking care to drain -it well. It should be eaten only by people in good health. - - -FORCED CABBAGE--(_Choux farcie._)--This is for dinner company. Take two -fine fresh cabbages, and examine them well to see that there are no -insects hidden among the leaves. Wash the cabbages in cold water, and -drain them. Take out the heart or inside cluster of leaves in the centre -of each cabbage, leaving a circle of them standing. Cut off the stalk -near the bottom, but not so close as to cause the cabbage to fall apart. -You may leave a double circle of leaves. Have ready plenty of stuffing, -or forcemeat, made of veal or fresh pork minced finely, cold ham or -smoked tongue minced also, grated bread-crumbs, fresh butter, powdered -mace, sweet marjoram and sweet basil, grated lemon-peel, and two -hard-boiled yolks of egg, crumbled fine. Fill the cabbages full with -this stuffing, and to keep them in shape, tie them firmly round in -several places, with strings of twine or bass. They must be tied in the -form of a round ball. Put them into a stew-pot, with water enough to -cover them well, and let them stew till thoroughly done. Take them up -immediately before they are wanted, and remove the strings that have -kept them in shape while cooking. Red cabbages may be done in this way. - - -FRENCH SOUR CROUT.--This may be made fresh every day, and has none of -the objections generally alleged against the German saur-kraut. Having -taken out the stalks or cores, split into quarters, four large -white-heart cabbages. Shred them fine with a cabbage-cutter. Wash them -well in two waters, and drain them in a cullender. Next lay the shred -cabbages in a large earthen pan, add a table-spoonful of salt, and a -pint of the best cider vinegar. Stir and toss the cabbage in this, and -let it steep for three hours. Then wash and drain it, and put it into a -large stew-pan, with half a pound of nice sweet butter, or a quarter of -a pound of lard. Season it with a little black pepper, and three -table-spoonfuls of French mustard, or a jill of tarragon vinegar. Cover -the whole with a buttered white paper, and stew it slowly for two hours -longer. Take off the paper, and send the sour crout to table in a -covered dish. - -You may lay on the top of the stew, a pound of sausage meat, or of -sausage cakes. Or a thin slice or two of cold ham. - - -DRESSING FOR SLAW.--Mix a small pint of real cider vinegar with four -large table-spoonfuls of nice fresh butter, divided into four bits, and -each bit rolled in flour; a tea-spoon of salt, and a salt-spoon of -cayenne. Being well stirred, and mixed thoroughly, boil this in a -porcelain-lined sauce-pan; and, as soon as it has come to a fast boil, -remove it from the fire, and stir in the beaten yolk of four eggs. Have -ready a nice fresh white cabbage, that has been washed, drained, and -cut, or shaved, into small shreds with a cabbage cutter. Lay the shred -cabbage in a deep dish or bowl, while you prepare the above dressing. -Having taken it from the fire, and stirred in, gradually, the beaten -yolk of egg, pour the dressing hot over the cabbage: mixing it all with -a large boxwood salad-spoon or fork. Set it out of doors to cool; or -cool it quickly on ice or snow. - -Or if preferred warm, place it on the top of a stove, and cover it -closely till wanted. It may be made of red cabbage. - -This slaw (either cold or warm) will be found very superior to all -others, if this receipt is exactly followed. - - -SALSIFY FRITTERS.--Having washed and scraped the salsify roots, and cut -off the extreme joints, stand them up and grate them. Beat three eggs -very light, and stir them gradually into a pint of milk, with sufficient -flour to make a stiff batter. Instead of grating the salsify you may cut -it into pieces, and boil it till quite soft, so that you can mash it -easily. Add a little pepper. Have ready over the fire a deep frying-pan -or skillet, with plenty of boiling lard. Put in a large spoonful of the -batter, and into the middle of each drop a spoonful of the mashed -salsify. Fry these fritters of a light brown on both sides, and take -them out with a perforated skimmer, draining off the lard through its -holes. - -You may fry the mashed salsify without the batter, taking large -spoonfuls, and dipping each in beaten egg first, and afterward twice -over in grated bread-crumbs, so as to resemble fried oysters. - -Or you may first boil the roots merely split in two, and then fry them -in fresh butter, or bake them brown in an oven. - - -SALSIFY OYSTERS.--Get some fine salsify roots, (called also -oyster-plant,) and wash and scrape them well. Boil them in sufficient -fresh oyster liquor to cover them well, and when they are soft take them -out, split them, and cut them into pieces about two inches long. Then -put them into a stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, some pieces of fresh -butter rolled in flour, and some blades of mace and some grated nutmeg, -with a few whole pepper-corns. Let them cook between five and ten -minutes, having stirred among them the beaten yolks of two or three -eggs. Serve them up hot, as a side dish. - - -MELONGINA OR EGG-PLANT.--Take a large fine egg-plant, and see that there -are no blemishes about it. Having cut it into thin round slices, -(without paring off the skin,) sprinkle between the slices a very little -salt and pepper, cover them with a plate, and let them rest an hour -more. Then wipe the pieces dry. Have some beaten egg in one deep plate, -and some bread-crumbs, finely grated, in another. Dip each slice of -egg-plant first into the beaten egg, and then into the bread-crumbs, and -fry them brown in a pan full of boiling lard, or else lard and fresh -butter mixed in equal quantities. Take them out with a perforated -skimmer, and drain them well. - -They will be much better if each slice is dipped _twice_ in the egg, and -twice in the crumbs. - -They may be fried very plainly, simply dredged with flour, and then put -into a pan with plenty of boiling lard, the lard drained well from each -slice when it is done. They should be fried brown on both sides. If -underdone, and left greenish or whitish, they have a raw bitter taste. - - -BAKED EGG-PLANTS.--Prepare several fine large unblemished egg-plants, by -scooping out the inside or pulp with a spoon, leaving the rind standing. -To do this you must cut off very nicely and evenly a round piece from -the top, (afterwards to be tied on again.) Make a sufficient quantity of -forcemeat or stuffing of soaked bread, pressed and dried slightly; fresh -butter; minced sweet marjoram leaves; a little pepper and salt; and some -powdered mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated off very fine. Mix -all these with the pulp or inside of the egg-plant. When thoroughly -mixed, stuff with it the rind or outside into a perfectly round shape, -and with a packthread tie on the top-piece which was cut off. Put the -egg-plants into a dish, the bottom covered with thin slices of cold ham. -Bake them for an hour or more, and then send them to table whole, with -the slices of ham laid round on the dish. Remove the strings. - - -FRIED BANANAS.--The bananas should be perfectly ripe and yellow all -over. Peel them, split them into long slips, and dredge them slightly -with flour. Have ready a frying pan filled with boiling lard. Put in the -bananas, and fry them well. When done, take them up on a perforated -skimmer, and drain back the lard into the frying pan. Dish, and send -them to table with powdered sugar to eat with them. - -In the West Indies, the large green bananas that are exported from -thence, are by no means in favor, compared with a _very small_ yellow -sort, the only banana eaten at the best tables. The little ones are -fried in the above manner. - - -ONION CUSTARD.--Peel and slice ten or twelve mild onions, and fry them -in fresh butter, draining them well when you take them up. Then mince -them as fine as possible. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and -stir them gradually into a pint of milk, in turn with the minced onion. -Season the whole with plenty of grated nutmeg, and stir it very hard. -Then put it into a deep white dish, and bake it about a quarter of an -hour. Send it to table as a side dish, to be eaten with poultry. It is a -French preparation, and will be found very nice, by those who have no -dislike to onions. - - -CAULIFLOWERS.--Choose large fine white cauliflowers. Wash them well, and -lay them in a pan of cold water, having divided each cauliflower into -quarters. Trim off the outside green leaves. Put on the cauliflowers in -boiling water with a little salt in it. It is still better to boil them -in milk. Let them cook till tender throughout, flower and stalk. When -quite done, put some bits of fresh butter among the flowers, or pour -over them drawn butter sauce, made with milk and seasoned with powdered -nutmeg or mace. Serve them up hot, and covered. - - -BROCCOLI--Is drest in the same manner. It is very good with toast under, -though inferior to cauliflower. - - -CAULIFLOWER OMELET.--Take the white part of a boiled cauliflower after -it is cold; chop it very small, and mix with it a sufficient quantity of -well beaten-egg, to make a very thick batter. Then fry it in fresh -butter in a small pan, and send it hot to table. - - -FRIED CAULIFLOWER.--Having laid a fine cauliflower in cold water for an -hour, put it into a pot of boiling water that has been slightly salted, -(milk and water will be still better,) and boil it twenty-five minutes, -or till the large stalk is perfectly tender. Then divide it, equally, -into small tufts, and spread it on a dish to cool. Prepare a sufficient -quantity of batter made in the proportion of a table-spoonful of flour, -and two table-spoonfuls of milk to each egg. Beat the eggs very light, -then stir into them the flour and milk alternately; a spoonful of flour, -and two spoonfuls of milk at a time. When the cauliflower is cold, have -ready some fresh butter in a frying-pan over a clear fire. When it has -come to a boil and has done bubbling, dip each tuft of cauliflower twice -into the pan of batter, and fry them a light brown. Send them to table -hot. - -Broccoli may be fried in this manner. - - -CAULIFLOWER MACCARONI.--Having removed the outside leaves, and cut off -the stalk, wash the cauliflower, and examine it thoroughly to see if -there are any insects about it. Next lay it for an hour in a pan of cold -water. Then put it into a pot of boiling milk and water that has had a -little fresh butter melted in it. Whatever scum may float on the top of -the water must be removed before the cauliflower goes in. Boil it -steadily half an hour, or till it is quite tender. Then take it out, -drain it, and cut it into short sprigs. Have ready three ounces of -rich, but not strong cheese, grated fine. Put into a stew-pan a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter, nearly half of the grated cheese, two large -table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk, and a very little salt and -cayenne. Toss or shake it over the fire till it is well mixed and has -come to a boil. Then add the tufts of cauliflower, and let the whole -stew together about five minutes. When done put it into a deep dish, -strew over the top the remaining half of the grated cheese, and brown it -with a salamander or a red-hot shovel held above the surface. - -This will be found very superior to real maccaroni. It is a company -dish. - - -BROCCOLI AND EGGS.--Take several heads of broccoli and cut the stalks -short, paring off from the stalks the tough outside skin. Trim off the -small outside shoots or blossoms, and tie them together in bunches. -After all the broccoli has been washed, and lain half an hour or more in -a pan of fresh cold water, put the large heads, with a salt-spoonful of -salt, into a pot of boiling water, and let them boil till thoroughly -done, and the stalk perfectly tender. When the large heads have boiled -about a quarter of an hour, put in the small tufts, which of course -require less time to cook. In the meanwhile have ready six beaten eggs. -Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a sauce-pan, and stir it over -the fire till it is all melted; then add gradually the beaten eggs, and -stir the mixture, or shake it over the fire till it becomes very thick. -Toast sufficient bread to cover entirely the bottom of a deep dish, -cutting it to fit exactly, having removed the crust. Dip the toast for a -minute in hot water. Pour the egg and butter over the hot toast. Then -place upon it the broccoli; the largest and finest head in the middle, -the lesser ones round it, and having untied the small sprigs, lay them -in a circle close to the edge. - - -FRIED CELERY.--Take fine large celery, cut it into pieces three or four -inches in length, and boil it tender, having seasoned the water with a -very little salt. Then drain the pieces well, and lay them, separately, -to cool on a large dish. Make a batter in the proportion of three -well-beaten eggs stirred into a pint of rich milk, alternately with half -a pint of grated bread-crumbs, or of sifted flour. Beat the batter very -hard after it is all mixed. Put into a hot frying-pan a sufficiency of -fresh lard; melt it over the fire, and when it comes to a boil, dip each -piece of celery _twice_ into the batter, put them into the pan, and fry -them a light brown. When done, lay them to drain on an inverted sieve -with a broad pan placed beneath it. Then dish the fried celery, and send -it to table hot. - -Parsnips, and salsify, (or oyster plant) may be fried in butter -according to the above directions. Also the tops of asparagus cut off -from the stalk, and the white part or blossom of cauliflower. Cold -sweet potatos are very nice, peeled, cut into long slips, and fried in -this way. - - -FRIED ARTICHOKES.--The artichokes must be young and tender. Cut them -into quarters, remove the choke part, and strip off the leaves. Having -washed the artichokes well and laid them an hour in cold water, put them -into a pot of boiling water, and keep them boiling steadily for a long -time, till you find by trying them with a a fork that they are tender -all through. Then take them out immediately, and drain them. Have ready -a sufficiency of batter, made in the proportion of the yolk of one egg -to a large table-spoonful of milk, and a tea-spoonful of flour. The eggs -must be well beaten before they are mixed with the milk; then beat in -the flour a spoonful at a time. Have ready over the fire some fresh -butter, or lard, in a frying-pan. When it has boiled hard, dip the -artichokes into the butter, (each piece should be twice dipped,) and fry -them brown. Then drain them well, and send them to table hot. - -Parsnips may be fried as above. Salsify also. - -Another way of frying artichokes, parsnips, and salsify, is, after they -have been boiled tender, to dip each piece first in beaten yolk of egg, -(without milk or flour,) and then roll it in finely grated bread-crumbs. -Then put them into the pan and fry them in butter or lard, or a mixture -of both. - -In boiling artichokes, observe to take them out as soon as they are -tender. If they remain in the water after they are done, they turn -blackish and lose their flavor. - - -MUSHROOM OMELET.--Take some fresh-gathered mushrooms; remove the stalks, -and rub the flaps or heads very slightly with a little salt, mixed with -cayenne. Then stew the mushrooms in a small sauce-pan, with barely -sufficient cream or rich milk to cover them. Put in with them a small -onion; and if the onion is found to turn blackish, throw away the whole; -it being proof that there is among them a false or poisonous mushroom. -Stir them with a silver spoon, and keep on the lid of the pan closely, -unless when you are stirring. If the spoon turns black, the mushrooms -should not be eaten. - -After they have come to a boil, take them off the fire; drain them, and -when cool, chop them small. To a pint or more of the minced mushrooms, -allow six or seven eggs. Beat the eggs till very light and thick, -(omitting the whites of two,) and then mix in, gradually, the mushrooms, -stirring the whole very hard. Put three ounces of fresh butter into a -hot omelet pan, or a _small_ frying-pan; place it over the fire and stir -the butter as it melts. When it has boiled hard, put in the omelet -mixture, and as it fries, stir it till it begins to set. Do not turn the -omelet; but brown the top by holding close above it a red-hot shovel. -When done, drain off the butter, fold over or double the omelet, and -serve it up immediately on a hot dish. - -In gathering mushrooms, those that are fit to eat may be known by their -being of a pale pearl color, or of a grayish white, instead of what is -called a dead white; and the underside of the flap or head (if good) is -of a light pink, or a pinkish salmon color. The best mushrooms grow on -uplands, or in high open fields where the air is pure and good, and they -should be gathered early in the morning before the dew is off. All that -are found in low swampy ground, or in the woods, or under large trees, -are poisonous. - - -SCOLLOPED TOMATOS.--Take fine large tomatos, perfectly ripe. Scald them -to loosen the skins, and then peel them. Cover the bottom of a deep dish -thickly with grated bread-crumbs, adding a few bits of fresh butter. -Then put in a layer of tomatos, seasoned slightly with a little salt and -cayenne, and some powdered mace or nutmeg. Cover them with another layer -of bread-crumbs and butter; then another layer of seasoned tomatos; and -proceed thus until the dish is full, finishing at the top with -bread-crumbs. Set the dish into a moderate oven, and bake it near three -hours. Tomatos require long cooking, otherwise they will have a raw -taste, that to most persons is unpleasant. - - -ASPARAGUS OMELET.--Take two bunches of the largest and finest asparagus. -Put it into a pot of boiling water, with a salt-spoonful of salt, and -boil it about twenty-five minutes, or till perfectly tender. Then drain -it, and chop small all the green part. Beat four eggs very light, and -add to them a wine-glass of cream. Mix the chopped asparagus thoroughly -with the egg and cream, adding a salt-spoon of salt, and a very little -cayenne. Melt a large slice of fresh butter in a frying-pan over the -fire; and when it has boiled, and the bubbling has ceased, put in the -mixture, and fry it till light and firm. Then slip it from the -frying-pan to a hot dish, and fold it over. - -For a soft omelet, put the mixture into a skillet with a piece of fresh -butter. Let it stew slowly for ten minutes. Lay a thin slice of buttered -toast in the bottom of a hot dish, and cut the toast into small squares, -but let them remain close together. With a spoon heap the soft omelet -upon the toast, and serve it up. - -Any omelet mixture may be kept soft by stewing instead of frying it, and -it will be found more wholesome. - -Before buttering the toast dip it a minute in hot water. - - -STEWED PEAS.--Take young, tender, green peas, wash them, and put them -into a stew-pan, with sufficient fresh butter to keep them from burning, -_but no water_. Season them with a little black pepper, and a very -little salt. Set them over a moderate fire, and stir them about till the -butter is well mixed through them. Let them simmer till quite soft and -slightly broken; take off the lid occasionally, and give them a stir up -from the bottom. If you find them becoming too dry, add some more -butter. When done, drain off what superfluous butter may be about the -peas, and send them to table hot. They will be found excellent. - -To the taste of many persons, they will be improved by a lump or two of -loaf-sugar put in with the butter, and also by a few sprigs of mint, to -be removed before the peas go to table. - -Lima beans may be stewed in butter, as above; also, asparagus tops, cut -off from the white stalk. - - -LETTUCE PEAS.--Having washed four lettuces, and stripped off the outside -leaves, take their hearts, and (having chopped them well) put them into -a stew-pan with two quarts of young green peas, freshly shelled; a lump -or two of loaf-sugar; and three or four leaves of green mint minced as -finely as possible. Then put in four slices of cold ham, and a quarter -of a pound of butter divided into four bits, and rolled in flour; and -two table-spoonfuls of water. Add a little cayenne, and let the whole -stew for about twenty-five minutes, or till the peas are thoroughly -done. Next take out the ham, and add to the stew half a pint of cream. -Let it continue stewing five minutes longer. Then send it to table. - - -PLAIN LETTUCE PEAS.--Cover the bottom and sides of a stew-pan with large -fresh leaves taken from lettuces. Have ready the peas, which should be -young and green. To each quart of shelled peas allow two table-spoonfuls -of fresh butter, and a lump of loaf sugar. Add a very little pepper and -salt, and a sprig of green mint. Cover the pan closely, and let it stew -for half an hour, or till the peas are thoroughly done. Then take them -out from the lettuce leaves, and send only the peas to table. - - -TO STEW CARROTS.--Half-boil the carrots; then scrape them nicely, and -cut them into thick slices. Put them into a stew-pan with as much milk -as will barely cover them; a very little salt and pepper; and a sprig or -two of chopped parsley. Simmer them till they are perfectly tender. When -nearly done, add a piece of fresh butter rolled in flour. Send them to -table hot. Carrots require long cooking; longer than any other -vegetable. - -Parsnips and salsify may be stewed in the above manner, substituting a -little chopped celery for the parsley. - - -SPINACH.--Having peeled and washed the spinach very nicely, put it into -a _bain marie_, or inside kettle, without any water, and cover it -closely. Pour the water into the outside kettle, and you may hurry the -boiling by throwing a handful of salt in the outside tin, taking care -that none of the salt gets into the inside. When the spinach is well -stewed, take it up and drain it without squeezing or pressing, as that -will make it tough and dry. Then chop it small, and add some hard-boiled -eggs, also chopped. Season it with pepper and fresh butter, stir it well -together, return it to the kettle, and let it stew a quarter of an hour -or more. Serve it up with buttered toast and poached eggs laid upon it. - -Spinach being very watery, should always be _stewed_ rather than boiled. -If you have no _bain marie_, the water that remains about the spinach, -after it has been washed, will suffice to stew it slowly. - -Spinach juice, for coloring green, must be strained, and boiled -slightly. You can obtain plenty of juice by pounding the leaves. - - -TO PREPARE CUCUMBERS.--Let the cucumbers be full-grown, but not in the -least yellow or hard. They are then only fit to be saved for seed. Lay -the cucumbers in a pan of cold water for an hour or more, or till it is -nearly time to send them to table, being careful not to set them in the -sun. Have ready another pan of fresh water, (very cold) and having -pared the cucumbers, slice them into it. Transfer them to a deep china -or white-ware dish. Season them with vinegar, pepper, salt, and a little -salad oil, taking care not to use too much salt. When there is no -dislike to onions, peel and slice a few that are mild, and mix them with -the cucumbers. It is usual now, at the best tables, to have the onions -in a small separate dish, (sliced with vinegar and pepper) to be eaten -by those that like them, and omitted by those who do not. Onions, (and -also salad oil) are said to render cucumbers more wholesome. - -Tomatos (raw) are frequently sliced, seasoned, and sent to table in the -manner of cucumbers. Tomatos are always wholesome. - - -STEWED CUCUMBERS.--Pare six fine fresh cucumbers. Cut each of them -lengthways into four pieces; lay them for an hour in a pan of cold -water. Take a clean stew-pan, and place in its bottom two -table-spoonfuls of good fresh butter. Then put in the slices of -cucumber, and sprinkle them slightly with a very little pepper. Add two -table-spoonfuls of cold water. Set the pan over a moderate fire, and let -the cucumbers stew slowly for half an hour or more, till they are well -cooked. Keep the pan closely covered, except when you have to remove the -lid to stir the stew. Serve them up hot, at breakfast, or as a side -dish, at dinner. - -Persons who have no objection to the taste of onions, will think the -cucumbers improved by the addition of the half of a moderate sized -onion, sliced thin and stewed with them. - - -A NICE WAY OF COOKING ASPARAGUS.--Where asparagus is plenty, there is no -better way of cooking it than the following. Take it as nearly of a size -as possible, wash it, and cut off the stalks very short, leaving them -not more than half an inch in length. Two quarts of water will be -sufficient to boil one quart of asparagus tops; allow a tea-spoonful of -salt to this quantity of water, and set it over the fire to boil. When -the water is boiling hard, put in the asparagus, and boil it fast for at -least half an hour. To see if it is done, take up two or three of the -largest pieces and taste them. While it is boiling, prepare two slices -of bread cut half an inch thick, and (having removed the crust) toast -the bread brown on both sides. Have ready a large jill of melted (or -drawn) fresh butter. When the asparagus is done, take it up with a -perforated skimmer, and lay it on a sieve to drain. Dip the slices of -toast (one at a time) first in the hot asparagus liquor, and then in the -melted butter. Lay the slices, side by side, in a deep dish, and cover -it with the asparagus, laid evenly over and round the toast. Then add -the remainder of the drawn butter, and send the asparagus to table hot, -in a covered dish. - -This is a much nicer way than that of boiling and serving it up with the -long stalks left on. And where you have asparagus in abundance, (for -instance in a country garden,) it may always be cooked in this manner. - -This is from the receipt of Mr. N. Darling, of New Haven. - - -ASPARAGUS OYSTERS.--Take two bundles of fine full-grown asparagus. Cut -off the green tops or points as far down as the white stalk. Take a -sufficient quantity of fresh oysters, the finest you can get at that -season. Put the asparagus tops into a stew-pan, with enough of oyster -liquor (previously strained) to stew them quite tender. Stew the oysters -themselves in another pan with some more of their liquor, seasoned with -pepper, mace, and nutmeg, adding a large piece of fresh butter, divided -into four, and each part rolled in flour. Do not let the oysters stew -more than five minutes, or they will become tough and shriveled. When -they are merely plumped, take them out and cut them up small, omitting -the gristle or hard part. Set the mixture over the fire for about five -minutes, stirring all the time. Have ready some slices of nice toast, -with all the crust pared off; the slices dipped for a minute in hot -water. Butter the toast, and cover with it the bottom of a deep dish, -and fill it with the mixture of asparagus and oysters. - - -ONION EGGS.--Boil a dozen eggs quite hard. Slice and fry in fresh butter -five or six onions. Slice (whites and yolks together) ten of the eggs, -reserving two for the seasoning. Drain the sliced onions, and lay them -on a dish with the sliced eggs placed upon them. Cover the dish, and -keep it hot. Take the two remaining eggs, grate the yolks, and mix them -with cream and grated nutmeg, and a very little cayenne. Put this -mixture into a very small sauce-pan, give it one boil up, pour it over -the eggs and onions, and send it to table hot. For those who have no -objection to onions this is a nice side dish. - - -EGG BALLS.--Boil eight eggs till quite hard, and when done, throw them -directly into cold water. Then put the yolks into a mortar, and pound -them to a paste, moistening them as you proceed with the beaten yolks of -three _raw_ eggs, seasoned with as much salt as will lie _flat_ upon a -shilling, and a little cayenne, and powdered nutmeg and mace. Mix the -whole well together, and make it up into small round balls. Throw them -into mock-turtle soup, or into stewed terrapin, about two minutes before -you take it up. - - -CURRY BALLS.--Take a sufficiency of finely-grated bread-crumbs; -hard-boiled yolk of egg, grated; fresh butter, and a little curry -powder. Pound the whole in a mortar, moistening it with raw yolk of egg -(well-beaten) as you proceed. Make it into small balls, and add them to -stewed chicken or rabbit, about five minutes before you take it up. - - -TOMATO PASTE.--Scald and peel as many ripe tomatos as will fill a large, -deep, stone jar. Set them into a warm oven for an hour. Then skim off -the watery liquid that has risen to the top, and press and squeeze the -tomatos in a sieve. Afterwards add salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and -powdered nutmeg, to your taste; and to every quart of tomatos allow a -half a pint of cider vinegar. Stew the whole slowly in a porcelain -kettle for three hours, (stirring it frequently from the bottom,) till -it becomes a smooth, thick paste. Then put it into small jars or -glasses, and cover it closely, pasting paper over each. It is an -excellent sauce, at the season when fresh tomatos are not to be had, and -is very good to thicken soup. - - -DRIED OCHRAS.--Take fine large fresh ochras; cut them into thin, round -slices; string them on threads, and hang them up in festoons to dry in -the store-room. Before using, they must be soaked in water during -twenty-four hours. They will then be good (with the addition of tomato -paste) to boil in soup or gumbo. - - -BEEF GUMBO.--Put into a large stew-pan some pieces of the lean of fresh -beef, cut up into small bits, and seasoned with a little pepper and -salt. Add sliced ochras and tomatos, (either fresh or dried ochras and -tomato paste.) You may put in some sliced onions. Pour on water enough -to cover it well. Let it boil slowly, (skimming it well,) till -everything is reduced to rags. Then strain and press it through a -cullender. Have ready a sufficiency of toasted bread, cut into dice. Lay -it in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the strained gumbo upon it. - - -TO BOIL OCHRAS.--For boiling, the ochras should be young and small. Wash -them, and cut off a small piece from each end. Boil them till very -tender throughout. Then drain them well, and transfer them to a deep -dish. Lay among them some bits of fresh butter, and season them with -pepper. Cover the dish, that the butter may be warm and melt the sooner. -Or you may make a sauce of half a pint of milk boiled, and when it has -come to a boil enrich with a quarter of a pound of very good fresh -butter, divided into four pieces; each piece rolled in a little flour, -the butter stirred in gradually and smoothly, as soon as the milk is -taken off the fire. Pour this sauce over the dish of ochras, and keep it -covered till it has gone to table. - -We prefer the first way, putting the bit of butter cold into the hot -ochras, with either milk or flour, and letting the butter melt -gradually, in the manner of green beans. You may boil with them a small -piece of very good bacon, removing when the ochras are taken off the -fire. Season with pepper. - - -ONIONS.--The best onions for cooking are the white or silver-skinned. -The red-skinned are generally strong and coarse. Shalots are very small -and delicate. Some sorts of large onions are milder and nicer than those -of middle size, and some that are very small have a powerful taste and -smell. The outer skin of most onions should be peeled entirely, and the -ends cut off. All onions are the better for boiling, before they are -cooked for any other purpose. Put them into a stew-pan with cold water, -and when they have come to a boil pour off that water, and replace it -with fresh cold also. Boil them slowly till quite tender all through, -which will not be in less than half an hour; more, if they are large. -When done, drain them well, dish them, and pour over them some nice -melted butter. - -_To Stew Onions._--Peel, slice them, and stew them in milk, enriched -with butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with a little cayenne and a -few blades of mace. - -_To Roast Onions._--Select fine large onions; do not peel them, but -place them in a bake-pan, and set them in an oven. Bake them slowly till -tender all through. When done, peel off the outer skin, and send them -hot to table, to eat with pepper and cold butter. - -They are very good when covered up and roasted under hot ashes, taking -care that they are done quite through to the heart. - - -TO BOIL GREEN PEAS.--When the peas are shelled, wash them in a pan of -cold water. Put on the peas in cold water, (a little salted) and let -them boil very fast. If nice peas, they will generally be done in a -quarter of an hour after beginning to boil. When simmering, add to them -a lump or a spoonful of loaf-sugar, and a sprig of fresh green mint, -(half a dozen leaves) having first ascertained if mint is not disliked -by any person who is to eat of the peas. To some the taste and odor of -mint is very agreeable, to others very disgusting, as is the case with -onions, and many other things that are liked by the majority. - -When the peas are all soft or tender, take out the mint, drain the peas -through a cullender till not a drop of water is left among them; -transfer them to a deep dish, mix into them some of the best fresh -butter, and sprinkle them with pepper. Cover them immediately, and send -them to table hot. - - -STEWED PEAS.--Having prepared the peas as above, put them into a -stew-pan without any water. Mix among them plenty of bits of nice fresh -butter, sufficient to cook them. Let them stew slowly in the butter till -they are quite soft, stirring them up from the bottom frequently. Drain -and dish them. They will be found very fine--better than if boiled in -water. Peas should not be stewed this way, except in places where plenty -of good _fresh_ butter is to be easily obtained. - - -GREEN PEAS.--The largest and finest peas are what the English call -marrowfat. The sugar pea is next. All green peas for boiling should be -young and tender, but not so young as to be tasteless or insipid. As a -general rule, nearly every article of food is best when it has just -attained its full growth and ripeness; after that period the older it is -the worse. Peas, so old as to be hard and yellow, are unfit to eat. In -some ultra economical houses, good peas are things unknown. They are not -bought in spring or early summer while young and fresh, but are never -thought cheap enough till they become hard and yellow. Afterwards, when -they reach the cheap state, a quantity are bought low, and put into jars -not to be touched till next spring, when they are boiled, (with great -difficulty, for they never become soft,) and _attempted_ to be passed -off "as this year's fresh peas"--and by the time the family have gotten -through with _them_, "this year's young peas" have become old. Do not -believe (for it is untrue,) that any eatable can be kept in _all_ its -genuine freshness and original flavor, by merely secluding them -entirely from air. They will not spoil or decompose if skillfully -managed; but they _have not exactly_ their natural taste and -consistence. It is better for those who _never make pickles or -preserves_, to wait for fresh vegetables or fruit, till they are -actually in market--or, if put up in jars, to add something more than -parboiling and seclusion from the air. Vinegar, salt, sugar, spice and -alcohol, will be found the grand and universal articles for securing the -goodness of nearly all eatables. Without some of these along with them, -things that have not spoiled while secluded from air, will surely spoil -almost as soon as the jars are opened, and the external air admitted to -them. - - -GREEN OR STRING BEANS.--Take young and tender beans, the seeds just -forming in the pods. Take off the string with a knife, leaving no bits -of string adhering to the beans, either at top or bottom. Do not split -them. Cut each bean into three pieces, _not more_, and as you cut them -throw them into a pan of cold water, kept beside you for the purpose. -The old-fashioned way is now obsolete of cutting them into dice or -diamonds, or of splitting them. The more they are cut up (beside the -trouble and time wasted,) the more the water gets through them when -cooking; the more tasteless they become, and the more difficult they are -to drain. We have never met with beans that, when cut small, had not a -puddle of greasy water in the bottom of the dish, and sometimes the -water was all through the dish, and the beans floating in it. Shame on -such bean-cooking! When the beans are all ready for the pot, throw them -into boiling water very slightly salted, and they will generally be done -in half an hour after they have come to a boil. Transfer them to a -sieve; and press, and drain them well, till no water is left about them. -Then put them into a deep dish, mix them with fresh butter, and dredge -them with black pepper. - - -LIMA BEANS.--Shell the lima beans into a pan of cold water. Let them lie -in it an hour. Put them in boiling water, little more than enough to -cover them, and boil them till soft and tender. When done, drain and -serve them up in a deep dish, adding among them a good piece of butter. -The Lima beans now raised in North America have become coarse and white, -requiring a renewal of fresh stock or new seeds from Peru. They will -then be green and delicate again, as formerly. - - -SWEET POTATOS.--Choose the sweet potatos large, and nearly of the same -size, then you can either boil or roast them. When small they should -always be boiled; as, when baked or roasted, the skin becomes so thick -and hard, that it takes up nearly the whole potato. Wash them very -clean, and cut off a bit from each end. Put them into a large pot of -boiling water without salt, and boil them steadily for at least an -hour. Probe them with a narrow-bladed sharp knife, and if it does not -easily penetrate all through the largest potato, (in at one side and out -at the other) continue the boiling till all are soft throughout. Then -take them up, peel them, and keep them warm till sent to table. - -_To Bake Sweet Potatos_ they should all be large. Wash them, dry them, -and cut off the ends. Then bake them in an oven, lying side by side, not -piling one on another. Or else (which is better) roast them in hot -ashes. They will not be done in less than an hour and a half, perhaps -longer. Then wipe them clean, and serve them up in the skins. Eat them -from the skins, with cold butter and a tea-spoon. - -_To Stew Sweet Potatos._--Wash and wipe them. Then scrape off the skins -with a sharp knife. Split them, and cut them into long pieces. Stew them -with fresh pork, veal, or beef; first putting at the bottom a very -little butter or water to start them, and then the gravy of the meat -will suffice for cooking them--skimming it well. Water to stew should be -hot. - -_Mashed Sweet Potatos_ are very nice. When well boiled, mash them -smoothly with a potato beetle. Mix them with fresh butter, and then stir -them well, or beat them with a large wooden spoon to render them light. -Afterwards, you may make them into round thick cakes, and touch the -surface of every one with pepper--red or black. This is a breakfast dish -for company. - - -BOILED TURNIPS.--Have all your turnips nearly of the same size. Pare -them; and if large cut them in half. Put them into boiling water, very -slightly salted, and keep them closely covered. Twenty minutes will boil -them if very small and young; their flavor is then very fine. -Afterwards, according to their size, they will require of gentle -boiling, from three-quarters to a full hour. Keep them boiling till, on -trying them with a fork, you find them perfectly tender all through. -Then take them up, drain them well, and pour melted butter over them; -touch the top of each with a spot of black pepper. If very old and -spongy, they are only fit for the pig barrel. It is said that if boiled -in their skins, (though requiring a much longer time to cook well) they -have a fine flavor, and are less watery. You can try it. - -If the turnips are to be mashed, cut them into small pieces, boil them -very soft, and drain and squeeze them till all the water is pressed out. -Then mash them very smooth. Transfer them to a deep dish, and mix them -with a _moderate portion_ of fresh butter. Turnips are generally served -with too much butter. Season them with pepper. When sent to table take -care not to set them in a sunny place, as it will give them a bad taste. - -Turnips, baked in an oven, are very good--for a change. - - -SYDNEY SMITH'S SALAD-DRESSING.--Have ready two well-boiled potatos, -peeled and rubbed through a sieve; they will give peculiar smoothness -to the mixture. Also, a very small portion of raw onion, not more than a -_quarter_ of a tea-spoonful, (as the presence of the onion is to be -scarcely hinted,) and the pounded yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix -these ingredients on a deep plate with one tea-spoonful of salt, one of -made mustard, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and one table-spoonful -of vinegar. Add, lastly, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy; mash, and -mix the whole together, (using a boxwood spoon) and see that all the -articles are thoroughly amalgamated. Having cut up a sufficiency of -lettuce, that has been well washed in cold water, and drained, add to it -the dressing immediately before dinner, mixing the lettuce through it -with a boxwood fork. - -This salad dressing was invented by the Rev. Sydney Smith, whose genius -as a writer and a wit is well known on both sides the Atlantic. If -_exactly_ followed, it will be found very fine on trial; no peculiar -flavor predominating, but excellent as a whole. The above directions are -taken from a manuscript receipt given by Mr. Smith to an American -gentleman then in London. - -In preparing this, or any other salad-dressing, take care not to use -that excessively pungent and deleterious combination of drugs which is -now so frequently imposed upon the public, as _the best white wine -vinegar_. In reality, it has no vinous material about it; and it may be -known by its violent and disagreeable sharpness, which overpowers and -destroys the taste (and also the substance) of whatever it is mixed -with. It is also very unwholesome. Its color is always pale, and it is -nearly as clear as water. No one should buy or use it. The first quality -of _real_ cider vinegar is good for all purposes. - -The above receipt may be tried for lobster dressing. - -A Spanish proverb says, that for compounding a _good_ salad, four -persons are required--a spend-thrift for oil; a miser for vinegar; a man -of judgment for salt; and a madman for stirring the dressing. - - -FINE CHICKEN SALAD.--Having skinned a pair of cold fowls, remove the -fat, and carve them as if for eating; cut all the flesh entirely from -the bones, and either mince it or divide it into small shreds. Mix with -it a little smoked tongue or cold ham, grated rather than chopped. Have -ready one or two fine fresh lettuces, picked, washed, drained, and cut -small. Put the cut lettuce on a dish, (spreading it evenly,) or into a -large bowl, and place upon it the minced chicken in a close heap in the -centre. For the dressing, mix together the following ingredients, in the -proportion of the yolks of four eggs well beaten, a tea-spoonful of -powdered white sugar, a salt-spoon of cayenne; (no salt if you have ham -or tongue with the chicken,) two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, six -table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and five of celery vinegar. Stir this -mixture well: put it into a small sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and -let it boil three minutes,(not more,) stirring it all the time. Then set -it to cool. When quite cold, cover with it thickly, the heap of chicken -in the centre of the salad. To ornament it, have ready half a dozen or -more, hard-boiled eggs, which, after the shell is peeled off, must be -thrown directly into a pan of cold water to prevent them from turning -blue. Cut each egg (white and yolk together) lengthways into four long -pieces of equal size and shape; lay the pieces upon the salad all round -the heap of chicken, and close to it; placing them so as to follow each -other round in a slanting direction, something in the form of a circular -wreath of leaves. Have ready, also, some very red cold beet, cut into -small cones or points all of equal size; arrange them in a circle upon -the lettuce, outside of the circle of cut egg. To be decorated in this -manner, the salad should be placed in a dish rather than a bowl. In -helping it, give each person a portion of every thing, and they will mix -them together on their plates. - -This salad should be prepared immediately before dinner or supper; as -standing long will injure it. The colder it is the better. - - -CARROTS.--Having washed the carrots, and scraped off the outer skin with -a sharp knife, or taken off a very thin paring, split them a few inches -down, leaving a long cleft in the upper half only, and put them on to -cook in plenty of boiling water, with a little salt in it. There is no -table vegetable that needs more boiling than a carrot. Small young -carrots require at least half an hour. If large, they must boil from one -to two hours, according to their size. When you find them tender -throughout, dish them, with melted butter poured round them. They are -eaten plain, only with boiled beef or boiled mutton. They are often -added to soups and stews, when they must be put in long before the other -vegetables. For soups and stews the nicest way is to grate them (before -boiling,) on a coarse grater. This way they improve both the taste and -color. - -Carrots are very nice, sliced thin after boiling, put into a sauce-pan, -with bits of butter dredged with flour, seasoned with pepper, and stewed -soft without any water. - - -PARSNIPS.--Scrape the parsnips, and split them half way down. Put them -into boiling water with a little salt. Parsnips require less boiling -than carrots; and, according to their size, will take from half an hour -to an hour. Skim the water while they are boiling. When quite tender -take them up, drain them, dish them, and pour melted butter over them. -They are especially eaten with corned pork, or salted cod; but are good -with various things. They are excellent stewed with fresh beef, or fresh -pork, for a plain dinner. - -_Fried Parsnips_ make a nice breakfast dish. They must first be -parboiled; then split, and cut into long pieces, and fried brown in -fresh butter, or in nice dripping of veal or beef. - -_Baked Parsnips._--Split and parboil them. Then place them in a large -dish. Lay among them some bits of fresh butter, and bake them brown. Eat -them with any sort of roast meat. - -_Parsnip Fritters._--Boil and peel half a dozen large parsnips, and then -split and cut them in pieces. Make a nice batter, allowing four beaten -eggs to a pint of milk, and four table-spoonfuls of flour. Have ready -over the fire, a frying-pan with boiling lard. Put in a large spoonful -of batter; upon that a piece of parsnip, and cover it with another -spoonful of batter. Proceed thus till you have used up the parsnips. -When done, drain them from the lard, and serve them hot at breakfast or -dinner. - - -BEETS.--Beets must be washed very clean, but not scraped, trimmed, or -cut till after they are boiled. Put them on in boiling water; and, -according to their size, boil them steadily from one hour and a half, to -two hours and a half, but they must not be probed (to ascertain if they -are tender all through,) but pinched with the fingers. Then peel off the -skins, and trim them neatly. Hold the beet in a pan of cold water while -you peel it. Do it quickly. Serve them up either split or sliced, with -melted butter poured over them, and seasoned with pepper. Or else they -may be sliced thick, (allowing them to get cold,) and spiced vinegar -poured over them. Red beets are usually dressed with vinegar; the white -or pale ones with melted butter. - -_Baked Beets_ have a finer flavor, and are more nutritious than when -boiled. Wash and wipe them dry, but do not skin or cut them till after -cooking. They must be thoroughly done before they are taken out of the -oven, and then pared and trimmed. According to their size they will -require from four to six hours baking. Their blood-red color makes them -ornamental to the table; but when cooked in soups or stews they add -little to the taste, which is overpowered by that of other ingredients. - - -SQUASHES OR CYMLINGS.--See that the squashes are not turning old, and -hardening. Wash them, and cut them into four pieces each; but do not -split them. Put them on in boiling water, with a little salt. Boil them -steadily till quite tender throughout. Then take them up, and mash or -drain them through a cullender, pressing them with a broad short-handled -wooden ladle. All the water (of which there will be a profusion,) must -be entirely squeezed out. Serve them up very dry, and smoothly and -evenly mashed, having first mixed with them a _very little butter_; and -season them with very little pepper. Much butter gives them a -disagreeable taste and consistence, and the butter should be fresh and -good. It is better to mash squashes, turnips, pumpkins, &c., without any -butter, than to use that which is salt and bad. The flat white ones are -the best summer squashes; the striped green are more watery; the cashaw, -or yellow winter squash, is best of all, and grows well in the New -England states, from whence, as it keeps well all winter, it is often -brought in barrels. Every family should get a barrel of winter squashes -from Boston. They do not thrive in the middle States. In New Jersey and -Pennsylvania, they cannot be raised even from the best yankee seed, -turning pumpkinish the next year, and afterwards becoming quite -pumpkins, and very bad ones too. But when raised in their native soil -and climate nothing of the squash kind is equal to them. They are very -dry and sweet, and of a rich yellow color. Take them out of the barrel, -and keep them far apart on the shelves or floor of a dry pantry. - - -STEWED PUMPKIN.--No pumpkin is too large to be good, but they may be too -old. Cut a good deep-colored pumpkin in half, and empty out all the -seeds, &c. Then cut it into pieces, and pare them. Put the pieces of -pumpkin into a pot with barely sufficient water to keep them from -burning. When they are thoroughly done or soft all through, take them -up; drain, mash, and press them through a cullender. They must be _very_ -dry. Put the stewed pumpkin into a dish, and mix it with a small portion -of butter. Season it with black pepper, and eat it with boiled corned -beef, or corned pork, or bacon. - -Stewed pumpkin is chiefly used for pies and puddings. - - -YANKEE PUMPKIN PUDDING.--Take a pint of stewed pumpkin. Mix together a -pint of _West India_ molasses and a pint of milk, adding two large -table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of ground -ginger. Beat three eggs very light, and stir them, gradually, into the -milk and molasses. Then, by degrees, stir in the stewed pumpkin. Put it -into a deep dish, and bake it without a crust. This is a good farm-house -pudding, and _equally_ good for any healthy children. - -For a large family, double the quantities of ingredients--that is, take -a quart of milk, a quart of molasses, four spoonfuls of brown sugar, -four spoonfuls of ginger, six eggs, and a quart of stewed pumpkin. - -You had best have at hand _more than a quart_ of pumpkin, lest when -mixed it should not hold out. This pudding is excellent made of winter -squash. - - -STEWED MUSHROOMS.--Peel and wash a quart of very fresh mushrooms, and -cut off all the stems. Button mushrooms are best; but if you can only -procure large ones, quarter them. Sprinkle them slightly with salt and -pepper, and put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of nice -fresh butter, cut in pieces and slightly dredged with flour. Keep the -lid closely covered all the time. When quite tender, put the mushrooms -into a deep dish, in the bottom of which is laid a nice toast that has -had all the crust pared off, and been dipped for a minute in hot water, -and slightly buttered. Serve up the mushrooms closely covered. They -require no seasoning. - - -BAKED MUSHROOMS.--Take large fine fresh mushrooms. Peel them and remove -the stems. Lay them on their backs in a large dish, (not letting them -touch each other) and put into each mushroom, (as in a cup) a bit of the -best fresh butter. Set the dish in an oven and bake them. Send them to -table in the same dish; or transfer them to another, with a large toast -at the bottom. There is no better way of cooking mushrooms than this. - -If you cannot procure good butter, cook them in nice olive oil. - - -TO BOIL INDIAN CORN.--Corn for boiling should be full grown, but young -and tender, and the grains soft and milky. If its grains are becoming -hard and yellow, it is too old for cooking. Strip the ears of their -leaves and the silk. Put them into a large pot of boiling water, and -boil it rather fast for half an hour or more, in proportion to its size -and age. When done, take it up, drain it, dish it under a cover, or -napkin, and serve it up hot. Before eating it, rub each ear with salt -and pepper, and then spread it with butter. Epicures in corn consider it -sweetest when eaten off the cob. And so it is; but _before company_ few -persons like to hold an ear of indian corn in their hands, and bite the -grains off the cob with their teeth. Therefore, it is more frequently -cut off the cob into a dish; mixed with salt, pepper, and butter, and -helped with a spoon. - -It is said that young green corn will boil sufficiently in ten minutes, -(putting it, _of course_, into a pot of boiling water.) Try it. - -_Another way._--Having pulled off the silk, boil the corn without -removing any but the outside leaves. With the leaves or husk on, it will -require a longer time to cook, but is sweeter and more nutritious. - - -HOMINY.--Hominy is white indian corn, shelled from the cob, divested of -the outer skin by scalding in hot lye, and then winnowed and dried. It -is perfectly white. Having washed it through two or three waters, pour -boiling water on it; cover it, and let it soak all night, or for several -hours. Then put it into a pot or sauce-pan, allow two quarts of water to -each quart of hominy, and boil it till perfectly soft. Then drain it, -put it into a deep dish, add some butter to it, and send it to table -hot, (and _uncovered_,) to eat with any sort of meat; but particularly -with corned beef or pork. What is left may be made next day into thick -cakes, and fried in butter. To be _very good_, hominy should boil four -or five hours. - - -CAROLINA GRITS OR SMALL HOMINY.--The small-grained hominy must be washed -and boiled in the same manner as the large, only allow rather less water -for boiling. For instance, put a pint and a half of water to a quart of -small hominy. Drain it well, send it to table in a deep dish _without a -cover_, and eat it with butter and sugar, or molasses. If covered after -boiling, the vapor will condense within the lid, and make the hominy -thin and watery. - - -SAMP.--This is indian corn skinned, and then pounded or ground till it -is still smaller and finer than the Carolina grits. It must be cooked -and used in the same manner. It is very nice eaten with cream and sugar. - -For invalids it may be made thin, and eaten as gruel. - - -HOMINY CAKES.--A pint of small hominy, or Carolina grits; a pint of -white indian meal, sifted; a salt-spoonful of salt, three large -table-spoonfuls of fresh butter; three eggs or three table-spoonfuls of -strong yeast; a quart of milk. Having washed the small hominy, and left -it soaking all night, boil it soft, drain it, and while hot mix it with -the indian meal; adding the salt, and the butter. Then mix it gradually -with the milk, and set it away to cool. Beat the eggs very light, and -add them gradually to the mixture. The whole should make a thick batter. -Then bake them on a griddle, in the manner of buckwheat cakes, rubbing -or scraping the griddle always before you put on a fresh cake. Trim off -their edges nicely, and send them to table hot. Eat them with butter. - -Or you may bake them in muffin rings. - -If you prefer making these cakes with yeast, you must begin them -earlier, as they will require time to rise. The yeast should be strong -and fresh. If _not_ very strong, use four table-spoonfuls instead of -two. Cover the pan, set it in a warm place; and do not begin to bake -till it is well risen, and the surface of the mixture is covered with -bubbles. - - -CORN PORRIDGE.--Take young corn, and cut the grains from the cob. -Measure it, and to each heaping pint of corn allow not quite a quart of -milk. Put the corn and milk into a pot, stir them well together, and -boil them till the corn is perfectly soft. Then add some bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour, and let it boil five minutes longer. Stir in -at the last, four beaten yolks of eggs, and in three minutes remove it -from the fire. Take up the porridge and send it to table hot, and stir -some fresh butter into it. You may add sugar and nutmeg. - - -CORN OYSTERS.--Three dozen ears of large young indian corn, six eggs; -lard and butter in equal portions for frying. The corn must be young and -soft. Grate it from the cob as fine as possible, and dredge it with -wheat flour. Beat very light the six eggs, and mix them gradually with -the corn. Then let the whole be well incorporated by hard beating. Add a -salt-spoon of salt. - -Have ready, in a frying pan, a sufficient quantity of lard and fresh -butter mixed together. Set it over the fire till it is boiling hot, and -then put in portions of the corn mixture, so as to form oval cakes about -three inches long, and nearly an inch thick. Fry them brown, and send -them to table hot. In taste they will be found to have a singular -resemblance to fried oysters, and are universally liked if properly -done. They make nice side-dishes at dinner, and are very good at -breakfast. - - -SUMMER SACCATASH.--String a quarter of a peck of young green beans, and -cut each bean into three pieces, (not more,) and do not split them. Have -by you a pan of cold water, and throw the beans into it as you cut them. -Have ready over the fire a pot or sauce-pan of boiling water; put in the -beans, and boil them hard near twenty minutes. Afterwards take them up, -and drain them well through a cullender. Take half a dozen ears of young -but full-grown indian corn, (or eight or nine if they are not all large) -and cut the grains down from the cob. Mix together the corn and the -beans, adding a very small tea-spoonful of salt, and boil them about -twenty minutes. Then take up the saccatash, drain it well through a -sieve, put it into a deep dish, and while hot mix in a large piece of -butter, (at least the size of an egg,) add some pepper, and send it to -table. It is generally eaten with salted or smoked meat. - -Fresh Lima beans are excellent cooked in this manner, with green corn. -They must be boiled for half an hour or more, before they are cooked -with the corn. - -Dried beans and dried corn will do very well for saccatash, but they -must be soaked all night before boiling. The water poured on them for -soaking should be hot. - - -WINTER SACCATASH.--This is made of dried shelled beans and hard corn, -soaked over night in separate pans, and boiling water poured over them -in the morning, after pouring off the first water. Then boil both -together till they are _quite soft_. Drain them dry in a sieve, put them -into a deep dish, and mix in a large piece of butter, seasoned with -pepper. This is a good accompaniment to corned pork or beef. The meat -must be boiled in a separate pot. - - -CAROLINA WAY OF BOILING RICE.--Pick the rice carefully, and wash it -through two or three cold waters till it is quite clean. Then (having -drained off all the water through a cullender,) put the rice into a pot -of boiling water, with a very little salt, allowing as much as a quart -of water to half a pint of rice. Boil it twenty minutes or more. Then -pour off the water, draining the rice as dry as possible. Lastly, set it -on hot coals with the lid off, that the steam may not condense upon it -and render the rice watery. Keep it drying thus for a quarter of an -hour. Put it into a deep dish, and loosen and toss it up from the bottom -with two forks, one in each hand, so that the grains may appear to stand -alone. - - -TOMATOS.--Tomatos require long cooking; otherwise they will have a raw -taste, and be quite too acid. Take fine tomatos that are quite ripe, put -them into a pan, and scald them in very hot water. Let them remain for -ten minutes, or till you can peel them without scalding your hands. -Drain them through a sieve. You may either press out all the seeds, -(retaining only the pulp or liquid,) or leave the seeds in, squeezing -the tomatos slightly. Put them into a stew-pan, which must on no account -be of copper, as the acid of the tomatos will render it poisonous. We -knew a lady who died in agonies from eating tomatos cooked in a copper -vessel that had the tinning partly worn off. If the tin inside is -indispensable, (which it is) why have any copper about it? A vessel of -_double_ block tin only, will last as long, and stand the fire as well -as if there was copper inside. For all stews, an iron pan, lined with -delft (or what is called porcelain or enamel) is excellent. Best of all -for stewing tomatos, and many other things, is a _bain marie_, or double -kettle, with the water outside, in the outer kettle. - -Having nearly filled the stew-pan with the tomatos, (cut up, if they are -large) add a little salt and pepper, a piece of fresh butter dredged -with flour, and (if approved) a very little chopped onion. If you have -ready-boiled onions at hand, take one or two of them and mince it fine. -Add to the tomatos some powdered white sugar to lessen the excessive -acid. Put but very few bread-crumbs--if too many, they will weaken the -taste. Tomatos are an improvement to every kind of plain soups, and may -be added, with advantage, after the soup is in the tureen. The cooking -of tomatos should be commenced at least three hours before dinner. Put -no water with them--their own juice is sufficient. - -Many persons like tomatos raw, sliced like cucumbers, and seasoned with -vinegar and pepper. - - -TO KEEP TOMATO PULP.--Having boiled them till entirely dissolved, -(adding a little salt and pepper) press and strain them through a sieve, -pour the liquor into pint or half-pint bottles, (which must be perfectly -clean) and stand the bottles up in a large iron pot or oven, with a -layer of straw in the bottom. Fill up the pot with cold water, cork -them tightly, and let the water boil round the bottles for five hours. -As it boils away, fill up with more hot water. When you take them out, -put a spoonful of salad oil at the top of each bottle; seal the bottles -with rosin cement. This pulp will be good for tomato purposes till next -summer, if kept in a cool dry place. When you open a bottle use it fast, -or cork it again immediately. - - -BROILED TOMATOS.--Take the very largest and ripest tomatos. Wash, but do -not scald or peel them. Cut the tomatos _half_ apart on four sides, -extract the seeds, and fill each tomato with a nice forcemeat of -stuffing, made of bread-crumbs, butter, minced veal or pork, mace, -nutmeg, and sweet marjoram. Having stewed this stuffing in a sauce-pan, -(moistening it with tomato juice, or gravy) fill all the tomatos with -it, opening them out a little like the leaves of a tulip. Butter -slightly a heated gridiron, and broil them on it. Or, they may be baked -in an oven. - -This is a dish for company, either at dinner or breakfast. - - -BUTTON TOMATOS.--These are the very smallest tomatos, and are excellent -for pickling and preserving. If quite ripe, and free from blemishes, -they will keep very well in cold vinegar, and are the easiest done of -all pickles. There are two sorts of button tomatos, the red and the -yellow, both equally good. Wipe every tomato clean and dry, and put -them into small glass jars that have a cover. Fill the jars two-thirds -with the tomatos, and then fill up to the top with the best cider -vinegar. On the top put a table-spoonful of salad oil, and cover them -closely. They require nothing to secure their keeping well. But the -taste will be improved, by putting in with them, three very small thin -muslin bags, each containing mace, nutmeg, and ginger, broken small, but -not powdered. Lay one bag of spice at the bottom of the jar; one about -the middle, and one near the top. If done without spice, they are the -cheapest of all pickles. Do not put them into soups or stews; but eat -them cold with meat, like other pickles. - -If kegs of these tomatos were carried to sea, and liberally served out -to the crew, the scurvy would be less frequent, even on long voyages. - -Large whole tomatos would do for this purpose. We wish it were the -universal custom in ships to take out with them plenty of tomatos kept -in this way in vinegar. Tomato catchup is now much used for the army--so -it should be for the navy; not only for the sick, but for the well; to -keep them well. - - - - -BREAD, PLAIN CAKES, etc. - - -HINTS ON HEATING OVENS AND BAKING.--Brick ovens are generally heated -with dry fagots or small branches, or with light split wood. For baking -bread, the oven-wood must be heavier than for pies. A heap of wood -should be placed in the centre of the oven on the brick floor, and then -set on fire. While the wood is burning, the door of the oven must be -left open. When the wood is all burnt down, and reduced to a mass of -small red coals, the oven will be very hot. Then shovel out all the -coals and sweep the oven floor with a broom, till it is perfectly clean, -and entirely free from ashes. Try the heat within. For baking bread, the -floor of the oven should look red, and a little flour thrown in should -burn brown immediately. If you can hold your hand within the mouth of -the oven as long as you can distinctly count twenty, the heat is about -right. Pies, puddings, &c., require less heat. When a brick oven is -used, a peel, or large broad-bladed long-handled wooden shovel is -necessary for putting in the bread, pies, &c., placing them on the broad -or shovel-end of the peel, and slipping them off on the oven floor. Then -close up the door of the oven, and leave the things to bake. When done, -slip the peel beneath them, and hand them out on it. - -To bake in an Iron Dutch oven, (a large deep, cast-iron pan, with a -handle, a close-fitting lid, and standing on three or four feet,) you -must first stand the lid upright before a clear fire to heat the inside; -and it will be best if the oven itself is also stood up before the fire -for the same purpose. This should be done while the article to be baked -is preparing, that it may be put in as soon as it is ready. The oven may -be suspended to the crane, and hung over the fire, or it may be set on a -bed of hot wood coals in the corner of the hearth. As soon as the loaf -or pie is in, put on the lid of the oven, and cover it all over with hot -coals, replenishing it with more live coals as the baking proceeds. If -you find it too hot on the top, deaden it with ashes. If the oven stands -on the hearth, keep up the heat at the bottom, by additional live coals -placed beneath it. Whether the oven is hung over the fire, or stood on -the hearth, there must always be hot coals all over the lid, the hottest -near the edge. - -To bake on a griddle, you may either hang it over the fire, or set it -over hot coals on the hearth. Most griddles have feet. The fire must be -quite clear and bright, and free from smoke, or the cakes will be -blackened, and have a disagreeable taste. The griddle must be perfectly -clean; and while you are baking, it will require frequent scraping, with -a broad knife. If it is well scraped after every cake is taken off, it -will not want greasing, as there will be no stickiness. Otherwise, some -butter tied up in a clean rag and laid on a saucer, must be kept at hand -all the time, to rub over the griddle between the baking of each cake; -for butter, lard, or nice beef or veal dripping may be substituted, but -it will not be so fine. Never grease with mutton fat, as it will -communicate the taste of tallow. A bit of the fat of _fresh_ pork may -do, (stuck on a fork,) but salt pork will give the outside of the cakes -a disagreeable saltness, and therefore should not be used. - -A griddle may be placed in the oven of a hot stove. Some close stoves -have a hole in the top with a flat lid or cover, which lid can be used -as a griddle. - -The tin-reflecting ovens (with shelves for the pies and cakes) that are -used for baking in the summer, and that, having a furnace beneath, and a -chimney-pipe, can be set out of doors, so that the kitchen may not be -kept hot, are very good for things that will bake soon, and that do not -require what is called a strong, solid heat. But they are not effective -unless the inside is kept _very bright_; otherwise it will not reflect -the heat. The tin ovens should (as well as tin roasters) be cleaned -thoroughly and scoured bright with sand every time they are used. - -The art of baking with anthracite, (or any other mineral coal,) can only -be acquired by practice. The above hints on baking, refer exclusively to -wood fires. - -When a charcoal furnace is used for baking, stewing, or any sort of -cooking, it should either be set out in the open air, or the door of the -kitchen must be kept open all the time. The vapor of charcoal in a -close room is so deleterious as to cause death. - - -DRIED CORN MEAL YEAST CAKES.--Half a pound of fresh hops, four quarts of -water, a pint of wheat or rye flour, half a pint of strong fresh yeast -from the brewer or baker, three pints or more of indian meal. Boil half -a pound of fresh hops in four quarts of water, till the liquid is -reduced to two quarts. Strain it into a pan, and mix in sufficient wheat -flour to make a thin batter, adding half a pint of the best yeast you -can procure. Leave it to ferment; and when the fermentation is over, -stir in sufficient indian meal to make a moderately stiff dough. Cover -it, and set in a warm place to rise. When it has become very light, roll -it out into a square sheet an inch thick, and cut it into flat cakes, -about four inches square. Spread them out separately, on a large dish, -and let them dry slowly in a cool place where there is no sun. While -drying, turn them five or six times a day. When they are quite dry and -hard, put them, separately, into brown paper bags, and keep them in a -box closely covered, and in a place not the least damp. - -When you want them to use for yeast, dissolve in a little warm water one -or more of the cakes, in proportion to the quantity of bread you intend -making. When it is quite dissolved, stir it hard, thicken it with a -little wheat flour, cover it, and place it near the fire to rise, before -you use it. Then mix it with the flour, according to the usual manner -of making bread. One yeast cake is enough for two quarts of meal or -flour. - -This way of preserving yeast is very convenient for keeping through the -summer, or for conveying to a distance. - - -EXCELLENT HOME-MADE YEAST.--Yeast should always be kept in a glass -bottle or a stone jug, and never in earthen or metal. Before you make -fresh yeast, empty entirely the vessel that has contained the last; and -if of stone, scald it twice with boiling water, in which it will be well -to mix a little clear lye. Then rince it with cold water, till perfectly -clean. If you have not used lye in scalding it, dissolve some potash or -pearlash in the rinsing water, to remove any acidity that may linger -about the vessel, and may therefore spoil the new yeast. If you keep -your yeast in glass bottles, the water must be warm, but not hot; as -scalding water may crack them: also, melt some potash or pearlash in -this water. The vessel for keeping it being purified, proceed to make -your yeast. Have ready, in a kettle over the fire, two quarts of boiling -water; put into it a very large handful of hops, (as fine and fresh as -possible,) and let the water boil again with the hops in it for twenty -minutes more. Sift into a pan three pints of wheat flour. Strain the -liquor from the hops into a large bowl, and pour half of it hot over the -flour. Stir it well, and press out all the lumps till it is quite -smooth. Let the other half of the liquid stand till it is cool, and then -pour it gradually to the rest; mixing it well, by stirring as you -proceed. Then take half a pint of good strong yeast--brewer's or baker's -yeast, if you can get it fresh; if not, you must use some that has been -left from your last making, provided it is not the least sour; stir this -yeast into the mixture of hop water and flour, put it immediately into -your jug or bottles, and cork it loosely till the fermentation is over, -(which should be in an hour,) and it will then be fit for use. -Afterwards cork it tightly. It will keep better if you put a raisin or -two into the bottom of each bottle, before you pour in the fresh yeast. -Into a stone jug put half a dozen raisins. - -All yeast is better and more powerful for being fresh. It is better to -make it frequently, (the trouble being little,) than to risk its -becoming sour by endeavoring to keep it too long. When sour it becomes -weak and watery, and tastes and smells disagreeably, and will never make -light bread; besides, being very unwholesome. The acidity may be -somewhat corrected by stirring in some dissolved pearlash, saleratus, or -soda, immediately before the yeast is used; but it is better to have it -good and fresh, without the necessity of any corrective. Yeast should -always be kept in a cool place. - -Those who live in towns where there are breweries have no occasion to -make their own yeast during the brewing season, and in summer they can -every day supply themselves with fresh yeast from the baker's. It is -only in country places where there are neither brewers or bakers that it -is expedient to make it at home. For home-made yeast, we know the above -receipt to be excellent. - -Sweet cakes, buns, rusks, &c., require stronger and fresher yeast than -bread; the sugar will otherwise retard their rising. - - -INDIAN BREAD OR PONE.--Four quarts of indian meal sifted, a large half -pint of wheat flour, a table-spoonful of salt, half a pint of strong -fresh yeast, a quart of warm water. Sift into a large deep pan the -indian meal and the wheat flour, mixing them well. Make a hole in the -centre. The water must be warm, but not hot. Mix it with the yeast, and -pour them into the hole in the midst of the meal. Take a spoon, and with -it mix into the liquid enough of the surrounding meal to make a thin -batter, which you must stir till it is quite smooth, and free from -lumps. Then strew a handful of wheat flour over the surface, scattering -it thinly, so as to cover the whole. Warm a clean cloth, and lay it -folded over the top of the pan. Then set it in a warm place to rise, -nearer the fire in winter than in summer. When it is quite light, and -has risen so that the flour on the surface is cracked, strew on the -salt, and begin to form the whole mass into a dough; commencing round -the hole that contains the batter, and adding, gradually, sufficient -lukewarm water (which you must have ready for the purpose,) to mix it of -the proper consistence. When the whole is completely mixed, and the -batter in the centre is thoroughly incorporated with the dough, knead it -hard for at least half an hour. Then, having formed the dough into a -round lump in the middle of the pan, strew a little more flour thinly -over it. Cover it, and set it again in a warm place for half an hour. -Then flour your pasteboard, divide the dough equally, and make it into -two loaves. Have the oven ready. Put in the loaves directly, and bake -them about two hours or more. Indian meal requires always more baking -than wheat. When you take them out, it is well to wrap each loaf in a -clean, coarse towel, well sprinkled with cold water, and rolled up damp -till the bread is baked. Having thus wrapped up the loaves, stand them -on end to cool slowly. The damp cloths will prevent the crust from -hardening too much while the loaves are cooling. - -All indian bread, and every sort of indian cake, is best when quite -fresh. - -Excellent bread may be made of equal proportions of wheat, rye flour, -and indian corn; or of three parts wheat and one part indian. All bread -should be kept closely secluded from the air, wrapped in cloths, and put -away in boxes or baskets with tightly-fitting lids. - -Should you find the dough sour, (either from the heat of the weather, or -from standing too long,) you may recover it, by dissolving in a little -lukewarm water a tea-spoonful of pearlash, saleratus, or soda. Sprinkle -this water all over the dough. Then knead it in, so that it may be -dispersed throughout. Then put it into the oven as soon as possible; -first tasting the dough, to discover if the sourness is entirely -removed. If not, mix in a little more pearlash, and then taste it again. -Take care not to put in too much of any of these alkaline substances, -lest they communicate a disagreeable, soapy taste to the bread. - -When you buy corn meal, it will keep better if the whole is sifted as -soon as you get it. Avoid buying much at a time, unless you can keep it -in a very cool place. When sour, it is unfit to eat. Common indian meal -is much the best for use. - - -INDIAN RYE BREAD.--Two quarts of indian meal, two quarts of rye meal, -three pints of milk or water, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a pint of -strong fresh yeast. Having sifted the rye and indian meal in a large -pan, mix them well together, adding the salt. Boil the milk or water in -a sauce-pan, and when scalding hot pour it on the meal, and stir the -whole very hard. If too stiff, add a little more warm water. Let it -stand till it becomes only of a lukewarm heat, and then stir in the -yeast. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and knead it long and hard -for at least half an hour. Then cover the pan with a thick cloth that -has been previously warmed, and set it near the fire to rise. When the -dough is quite light, and cracked all over the top, take it out of the -pan; divide the mass in half, make it into two loaves, knead each loaf -well for ten minutes or more, and then cover and set them again near the -fire for about half an hour. By this time have the oven ready, put in -the loaves directly, and bake them at least an hour and a half. This -bread is considered very wholesome. - -Should you find the dough sour, you may rectify it by kneading in a -tea-spoonful of soda or pearlash, dissolved in a little warm water. - - -INDIAN WHEAT BREAD.--This is made in the above manner, substituting -wheat for rye flour. - -In any sort of home-made bread, (either white or brown) a handful or -more of indian meal will be found an improvement, rendering it moist and -sweet. - - -BOSTON RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.--Two quarts of indian meal, two quarts of -rye meal, half a pint of strong fresh yeast, half a pint of West India -molasses, a small table-spoonful of salt. Sift the rye and indian meal -into a large pan or wooden bowl; and mix them well together, adding a -little salt. Have ready half a pint of water, warm but not hot. Mix with -it the molasses, and then stir into it the yeast. Make a hole in the -middle of the pan of meal, pour in the liquid, and then with a spoon -work into it a portion of the flour that surrounds the hole, till the -liquid in the centre becomes a thick batter. Sprinkle the top with rye -meal, lay a thick cloth over the pan, and set it in a warm place to -rise. In three or four hours it should be light enough to appear cracked -all over the surface. Then pour into the middle (by degrees) about a -pint of warm water, (it must not be hot,) and as you pour mix it well -all through the dough, till the whole becomes a round mass. Sprinkle -some rye flour on the dough, and having floured your hands, knead it -long and hard, (at least half an hour, and after it ceases to stick to -your hands,) turning it over as you proceed. Then sprinkle the dough -again with flour, cover it, and again set it in a warm place to rise. -Have the oven ready, and of the proper heat, so that the bread may be -put in as soon as it has completely risen the second time. When -perfectly light, the dough will stand high, and the surface will be -cracked all over. This quantity will be sufficient for a common-sized -loaf. Set it directly into the oven, and bake it about two hours. When -bread has done rising, it will fall again if not put into the oven. As -soon as it is done, wrap it immediately in a clean coarse towel wet with -cold water, and stand it up on end till it is cool. - -This is a palatable, cheap, and wholesome bread. It may be baked in a -deep tin or iron pan. - -If the dough should have stood so long as to become sour, (which it -will, if mixed over night,) restore it by kneading in a small -tea-spoonful of pearlash or saleratus melted in a little warm water. - - -EGG PONE.--Three eggs, a quart of indian meal, a large table-spoonful of -fresh butter, a small tea-spoonful of salt, a half pint (or more) of -milk. Beat the eggs very light, and mix them with the milk. Then stir -in, gradually, the indian meal, adding the salt and butter. It must not -be a batter, but a soft dough, just thick enough to be stirred well with -a spoon. If too thin, add more indian meal; if too stiff, thin it with a -little more milk. Beat or stir it _long and hard_. Butter a tin or iron -pan. Put the mixture into it, and set the pan immediately into an oven, -which must be moderately hot at first, and the heat increased afterward. -A Dutch oven is best for this purpose. It should bake an hour and a half -or two hours, in proportion to its thickness. Send it to table hot, and -cut into slices. Eat it with butter, or molasses. - - -INDIAN MUSH.--Have ready on a clear fire a pot of boiling water. Stir -into it, by degrees, (a handful at a time,) sufficient indian meal to -make a very thick porridge, and then add a very small portion of salt, -allowing not more than a level tea-spoonful to a quart of meal. You must -keep the pot boiling all the time you are stirring in the meal; and -between every handful stir hard with the mush-stick, (a round stick -about half a yard long, flattened at the lower end,) as, if not well -stirred, the mush will be lumpy. After it is sufficiently thick and -smooth, keep it boiling an hour longer, stirring it occasionally. Then -cover the pot closely, and hang it higher up the chimney, or set it on -hot coals on the hearth, so as to simmer it slowly for another hour. The -goodness and wholesomeness of mush depends greatly on its being long and -thoroughly boiled. It should also be made very thick. If well made, and -well cooked, it is wholesome and nutritious; but the contrary, if thin, -and not sufficiently boiled. It is not too long to have it three or four -hours over the fire, first boiling, then simmering. On the contrary, it -will be better for it. The coarser the corn meal the less cooking it -requires. Send it to table hot, and in a deep dish. Eat it with sweet -milk, buttermilk, or cream, or with butter and sugar, or with butter and -molasses; making a hole in the middle of your plate of mush, putting -some butter into the hole, and then adding the sugar or molasses. - -Cold mush that has been left may be cut into slices, or mouthfuls, and -fried next day, in butter, or in nice dripping of veal, beef, or pork; -but not mutton or lamb. - - -INDIAN HASTY PUDDING.--Put two quarts of milk into a clean pot or -sauce-pan. Set it over the fire, adding a level tea-spoonful of salt, -and, when it comes to a boil, stir in a lump of fresh butter about the -size of a goose egg. Then add (a handful at a time) sufficient indian -meal to make it very thick, stirring it all the while with a mush stick. -Keep it boiling well, and continue to throw in indian meal till it is so -thick that the stick stands upright in it. Then send it to table hot, -and eat it with milk, cream, or molasses and butter. What is left may be -cut into slices, and fried next day, or boiled in a bag. - - -INDIAN MEAL GRUEL.--This is an excellent food for the sick. Having -sifted some indian meal, mix in a quart bowl three table-spoonfuls of -the meal with six of cold water. Stir it smooth, and press out the lumps -against the side of the bowl. Have ready a very clean sauce-pan, -entirely free from grease, with a pint of boiling water. Pour this, -scalding hot, on the mixture in the bowl, a little at a time, and stir -it well, adding a pinch of salt. Then put the whole back into the -sauce-pan. Set it on hot coals and stir it till it boils, making the -spoon go down to the bottom to prevent the gruel from burning. After it -has come to a boil, let it continue boiling half an hour, stirring it -frequently, and skimming it. Give it to the invalid warm, in a bowl or -tumbler, to be eaten with a tea-spoon. It may be sweetened with a little -sugar. When the physician permits, some grated nutmeg may be added; -also, a very little wine. - - -RYE MUSH.--To make smooth rye mush, sift a quart or more of rye meal -into a pan, and gradually pour in sufficient cold water to make a very -thick batter, stirring it hard with a spoon as you proceed, and -carefully pressing out all the lumps against the side of the pan. Add a -very little salt. The batter must be so thick at the last that you can -scarcely stir it. Then thin it with a little more water, and see that it -is quite smooth. Rye, and also wheat flour, have a disposition to be -more lumpy than corn meal, when made into mush. When thoroughly mixed -and stirred, put it into a pot, place it over the fire and boil it well, -stirring it with a mush-stick till it comes to a hard boil; then place -it in a diminished heat, and simmer it slowly till you want to dish it -up. Eat it warm, with butter and molasses, or with sweet milk, or fresh -buttermilk. Rye mush is considered very wholesome, particularly in cases -of dyspepsia. - - -COMMON HOE-CAKE.--Take an earthen or tin pan, and half fill it with -coarse indian meal, which had best be sifted in. Add a little salt. Have -ready a kettle of boiling water. Pour into the indian meal sufficient -hot water (a little at a time,) to make a stiff dough, stirring it with -a spoon as you proceed. It must be thoroughly mixed, and stirred hard. -If you want the cakes for breakfast, mix this dough over night; cover -the pan, and set it in a _cool_ place till morning. If kept warm, it -may turn sour. Early next morning, as soon as the fire is burning well, -set the griddle over it, and take out the dough, a handful at a time. -Flatten and shape it by patting it with your hands, till you form it -into cakes about the size of a common saucer, and half an inch thick. -When the griddle is quite hot, lay on it as many cakes as it will hold, -and bake them brown. When the upper side is done, slip a broad knife -beneath and turn them over. They must be baked brown on both sides. Eat -them warm, with buttermilk, sweet milk, butter, molasses, or whatever is -most convenient. If you intend these cakes for dinner or supper, mix -them as early in the day as you can, and (covering the pan) let them -stand in a cool place till wanted for baking. In cold weather you may -save trouble by mixing over night enough to last the next day for -breakfast, dinner, and supper; baking them as they are wanted for each -meal. Or they may be all baked in the morning, and eaten cold; but they -are then not so palatable as when warm. They will be less liable to -stick, if before each baking the griddle is dredged with wheat flour, or -greased with a bit of fat pork stuck on a fork. You may cover it all -over with one large cake, instead of several small ones. - -This cake is so called, because in some parts of America it was -customary to bake it on the iron of a hoe, stood up before the fire. It -is better known by that name than by any other. - - -COMMON GRIDDLE CAKE.--A quart of indian meal, sufficient warm water to -make a soft dough, a small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the indian meal -into a pan, and add the salt. Make a hole in the centre of the meal, and -pour in a little warm water. Then mix it with a large, strong spoon, -adding, by degrees, water enough to make a soft dough. Flour your hands, -and knead it into a large lump--divide it into two equal portions. Flour -your pasteboard, lay on it the first lump of dough, and roll it out -about an inch thick. Then, (having already heated your griddle,) lay the -cake upon it, spreading it evenly, and make it a good round shape. It -should cover the whole surface of the griddle, which must first be -greased, either with butter or lard tied in a rag, or with a bit of fat -fresh pork. Bake it well; and when one side is well browned, turn it on -the other, taking care not to break it. Send it to table hot, cut into -three-cornered pieces--split and butter them. As soon as the first cake -is sent in, put on the other to bake. - -This is one of the plainest and simplest preparations of indian cake; -and is very good when warm. - - -PLAIN JOHNNY CAKE.--A quart of indian meal, a pint of warm water, a -level tea-spoonful of salt. Sift a quart of indian meal into a pan. Make -a hole in the middle, and pour in a pint of warm water, adding the salt. -With a spoon mix the meal and water gradually into a soft dough. Stir -it very hard for a quarter of an hour or more, till it becomes light and -spongy. Then spread the dough, smooth and evenly, on a stout, flat -board. A piece of the head of a flour barrel will serve for this -purpose. Place the board nearly (but not quite) upright, and set a -smoothing-iron or a stone against the back to support it. Bake it well. -When done, cut it into squares, and send it hot to table, split and -buttered. You may eat molasses with it. - - -VERY PLAIN INDIAN DUMPLINGS.--Sift some indian meal into a pan; add -about a salt-spoon of salt to each quart of meal, and scald it with -sufficient boiling water to make a stiff dough. Pour in the water -gradually, stirring as you pour. When the dough becomes a stiff lump -divide it into equal portions; flour your hands, and make it into thick -flat dumplings, about as large round as the top of a glass tumbler, or a -breakfast cup. Dredge the dumplings on all sides with flour, put them -into a pot of boiling water, (if made sufficiently stiff they need not -be tied in cloths,) and keep them boiling hard till thoroughly done. Try -them with a fork, which must come out quite clean, and with no -clamminess sticking to it. They are an excellent appendage to salt pork -or bacon, serving them up with the meat; or they may be eaten afterwards -with butter and molasses, or with milk sweetened well with brown sugar, -and flavored with a little ground cinnamon. On no account boil them with -meat. - - -INDIAN MUFFINS.--A pint and a half of yellow indian meal, sifted; a -handful of wheat flour; a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; a quart of -milk; four eggs; a very small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the milk into a -sauce-pan. Cut the butter into it. Set it over the fire and warm it till -the butter is very soft, but not till it melts. Then take it off, stir -it well till all mixed, and set it away to cool. Beat four eggs very -light, and when the milk is cold, stir them into it alternately with the -meal, a little at a time, of each. Add the salt. Beat the whole very -hard after it is all mixed. Then butter some muffin-rings on the inside. -Set them in a hot oven, or on a heated griddle; pour some of the batter -into each, and bake the muffins well. Send them hot to table, continuing -to bake while a fresh supply is wanted. Pull them open with your -fingers, and eat them with butter, to which you may add molasses or -honey. These muffins will be found excellent, and can be prepared in a -very short time; for instance, in three quarters or half an hour before -breakfast or tea. - -This mixture may be baked in waffle-irons, as waffles. Butter them, and -have on the table a glass bowl with powdered sugar and powdered -cinnamon, to eat with these waffles. - - -CORN MEAL BREAKFAST CAKES.--A quart of indian meal; a handful or more of -wheat flour; a large salt-spoon of salt; a quart of warm water; an -additional pint of lukewarm water; a bit of pearlash the size of a -hazle-nut, or the same quantity of soda or saleratus. Mix over night, in -a large pan, the indian meal, the wheat flour and salt. Pour on -gradually a quart of warm water, (warm but not hot,) and stir it in with -a large wooden or iron spoon, so as to form a very soft dough. Cover the -pan, and set it on the dresser till morning. In the morning thin the -dough with another pint of warm water, so as to make it into a batter, -having first dissolved in the water a salt-spoonful of powdered pearlash -or saleratus, or a bit the size of a hazle-nut. Beat the mixture hard. -Then cover it, and let it stand near the fire for a quarter of an hour -before you begin to bake it. Bake it in thin cakes on a griddle. Send -them to table hot, and eat them with butter and molasses, or honey. - - -INDIAN RICE CAKES.--Take equal quantities of yellow indian meal and well -boiled rice. Mix them together in a pan, the meal and rice alternately, -a little at a time of each. The boiled rice may be either hot or cold; -but it will be rather best to mix it hot. Having first mixed it with a -spoon, knead it well with your hands; moistening it with a little milk -or water, if you find it too stiff. Have ready, over the fire, a heated -griddle. Grease it with fresh butter tied in a clean rag; and having -made the mixture into flat round cakes, bake them well on both sides. -Eat them with butter and sugar, or butter and molasses, or with butter -alone. - - -PUMPKIN INDIAN CAKES.--Take equal portions of indian meal, and stewed -pumpkin that has been well mashed and _drained very dry_ in a sieve or -cullender. Put the stewed pumpkin in a pan, and stir the meal gradually -into it, a spoonful at a time, adding a little butter as you proceed. -Mix the whole thoroughly, stirring it very hard. If not thick enough to -form a stiff dough, add a little more indian meal. Make it into round, -flat cakes, about the size of a muffin, and bake them over the fire on a -hot griddle greased with butter. Or lay them in a square iron pan, and -bake them in an oven. - -Send them to table hot, and eat them with butter. - - -EXCELLENT BUCKWHEAT CAKES.--A quart of buckwheat meal, sifted; a level -tea-spoonful of salt; a small half pint or a large handful of indian -meal; two large table-spoonfuls of strong fresh brewer's yeast or four -table-spoonfuls of home-made yeast; sufficient lukewarm water to make a -moderate batter. Mix together the buckwheat and indian meal, and add the -salt. Make a hole in the centre of the meal, and pour in the yeast. Then -stir in gradually, from a kettle, sufficient tepid or lukewarm water to -make a moderately thick batter when united with the yeast. Cover the -pan, set it in a warm place, and leave it to rise. It should be light in -about three hours. When it has risen high, and is covered with bubbles, -it is fit to bake. Have ready a clean griddle well heated over the fire. -Grease it well with a bit of fresh butter tied in a clean white rag, and -kept on a saucer near you. Then dip out a large ladleful of the batter, -and bake it on the griddle; turning it when brown, with the cake-turner, -and baking it brown on the other side. Grease the griddle slightly -between baking each cake, or scrape it smooth with a broad knife. As -fast as you bake the cakes, lay them, several in a pile, on a hot plate. -Butter them, and if of large size cut them across into four pieces. Or -send them to table to be buttered there. Trim off the edges before they -go in. - -If your batter has been mixed over night, and is found sour in the -morning, dissolve a salt-spoon of pearlash or saleratus in a little -lukewarm water, stir it into the batter, let it stand a quarter of an -hour, and then bake it. The alkali will remove the acidity, and increase -the lightness of the batter. If you use soda for this purpose it will -require a tea-spoonful. - -If the batter is kept at night in so cold a place as to freeze, it will -be unfit for use. Do not grease the griddle with meat-fat of any sort. - - -NICE RYE BATTER CAKES.--A quart of lukewarm milk, two eggs, a large -table-spoonful of fresh, brewer's yeast or two of home-made yeast; -sufficient sifted rye meal to make a moderate batter; a salt-spoon of -salt; having warmed the milk, beat the eggs very light, and stir them -gradually into it, alternately with the rye meal, adding the salt. Put -in the meal, a handful at a time, till you have the batter about as -thick as for buckwheat cakes. Then stir in the yeast, and give the -batter a hard beating, seeing that it is smooth and free from lumps. -Cover the pan, and set it in a warm place to rise. When risen high, and -covered with bubbles, the batter is fit to bake. Have ready over the -fire a hot griddle, and bake the cakes in the manner of buckwheat. Send -them to table hot, and eat them with butter, molasses, or honey. - -Yeast powders, used according to the directions that accompany them, and -put in at the last, just before baking, are an improvement to the -lightness of all batter cakes, provided that real yeast or eggs are also -in the mixture. But it is not well to depend on the powders exclusively; -particularly when real yeast is to be had. The lightness produced by -yeast powders alone, is not the right sort; and though the cakes are -eatable, they are too tough and leathery to be wholesome. As -_auxiliaries_ to genuine yeast, and to beaten eggs, yeast powders are -excellent. But not as the sole dependence. - -Indian batter cakes may be made as above; or rye and indian meal be -mixed in equal proportions. - - -INDIAN CUP CAKES.--A pint and a half of yellow Indian meal; half a pint -of wheat flour; a pint and a half of _sour_ milk; (buttermilk is best;) -a small tea-spoonful of saleratus or soda dissolved in warm water; two -eggs; a level tea-spoonful of salt. Sift the indian and wheat meal into -a pan and mix them well, adding the salt. If you have no buttermilk or -other sour milk at hand, turn some sweet milk sour by setting a pan of -it in the sun, or stirring in a spoonful of vinegar. Take out a small -tea-cupful of the sour milk, and reserve it to be put in at the last. -Beat the eggs very light, and then stir them, gradually, into the milk, -alternately with the meal, a little at a time of each. Lastly, dissolve -the soda or saleratus, and stir it into the cup of sour milk that has -been reserved for the purpose. It will effervesce; stir it while foaming -into the mixture, which should be a thick batter. Have ready some -tea-cups, or little deep tins. Butter them well; nearly fill them with -the batter, and set them immediately into a rather brisk oven. The cakes -must be thoroughly baked all through. When done, turn them out on large -plates, and send them hot to the breakfast or tea-table. Split them into -three pieces, and eat them with butter. - -The soda will entirely remove the acidity of the milk, which will -effervesce the better for being sour at first, adding therefore to the -lightness of the cake. Taste the milk, and if you find that the -slightest sourness remains, add a little more dissolved soda. - -All the alkalies, pearlash, saleratus, soda, and sal-volatile, will -remove acidity, and increase lightness; but if too much is used, they -will impart a disagreeable taste. It is useless to put lemon or orange -juice into any mixture that is afterwards to have one of these alkalies, -as they will entirely destroy the flavor of the fruit. - - -CAROLINA RICE CAKES.--Having picked and washed half a pint of rice, boil -it by itself till the grains lose all form, and are dissolved into a -thick mass or jelly. While warm, mix into it a large lump of the best -fresh butter, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Pour into a bowl a moderate -sized tea-cupful of ground rice flour, and add to it as much milk as -will make a tolerably stiff batter. Stir it till it is quite smooth, and -free from lumps. Then mix it thoroughly with the boiled rice. Beat six -eggs as light as possible, and stir them, gradually, into the mixture. -Bake it on a griddle, in cakes about as large round as a saucer. Eat -them warm with butter; and have on the table, in a small bowl, some -powdered white sugar and nutmeg, for those who like it. - - -AUNT LYDIA'S CORN CAKE.--Sift into a large pan a quart of yellow corn -meal, and add a level tea-spoonful of salt, (not more.) Have ready a -pint of boiling milk, sufficient to make a soft dough. Mix the milk hot -into the corn meal, and add about a quarter of a pound, or half a pint -of nice fresh butter. Having beaten five eggs till very light and thick, -stir them gradually into the mixture, and set it to cool. All -preparations of corn meal require much beating and stirring. Have ready -some small tin pans, about four or five inches square, and two or three -inches deep. They are especially good for baking such cakes, (far better -than patty-pans,) and are made by any tinsmith. Grease the pans with the -same butter you have used in mixing the cakes. _Fill the pans to the -top_ with the above mixture, that the heat may immediately catch the -surface, and cause it to puff up high above the edges of the pan. If -properly mixed, and well beaten, there is no danger of it running over. -If only half filled, and not very light, the mixture when baking will -sink down, and become heavy and tough. Set these cakes immediately into -a moderate oven. Bake them brown, and send them to the breakfast table -hot. Split and butter them. - -They may be baked in muffin rings, but the small square pans are best. - -This is the very best preparation of Indian cakes. If _exactly -followed_, we believe there is none superior; as is the opinion of all -persons who have eaten them. The cook from whom this receipt was -obtained, is a Southern colored woman, called Aunt Lydia. - -The above quantities will furnish cakes only for a small family. If the -family is of tolerable size, double the proportions of each article--as -for instance, two quarts of Indian meal, one quart of milk, half a pound -of butter, and ten eggs, with a level table-spoonful of salt. Let them -be well baked; not scorched on the top, and raw at the bottom. - -We recommend them highly as the perfection of corn cakes, if well made, -well baked, and with all the ingredients of the best quality. - -Use yellow indian meal in preference to white. The yellow is sweeter, -has more of the true corn taste, and its color shows at once what it is. -The white has less flavor, and may be mistaken for very coarse wheat. It -is difficult to keep corn meal good for the whole year. Before the new -corn meal is in market, the old is apt to become musty. If you live in a -city it is best to buy it as you want it; a few pecks at a time. If in -the country, sift your barrel of corn meal soon after it is brought; -divide it, and keep it in several different vessels, always well -covered. - - -SHORT CAKE.--As this requires no rising, it may be mixed and prepared at -half an hour's notice. Take a quart and a pint of wheat flour, sift it -into a pan, and divide into three parts three quarters of a pound of -nice fresh butter. Cut up one piece into the pan of flour, and mix it -into a dough with a broad knife, adding, as you proceed, as little water -as will be barely sufficient. The water must be very cold. Roll out this -lump of paste, dredge it slightly with flour, fold it up, and roll it -out again. Then cover it with a second division of the butter, put on -the sheet of paste with the knife, and dispersed at equal distances. -Sprinkle it with flour, fold it, and roll out the sheet again. Put on -the remainder of the butter as before, in bits equally dispersed. Fold, -dredge, and roll out the dough into a rather thin sheet. Cut it into -small round cakes with the edge of a tumbler, or something like it, -using up the clippings of paste left at the last to make one more cake. -Have ready a hot griddle or oven. Put on the cakes so as not to touch -each other, and bake them light brown on both sides. Send them to table -hot, to be split and buttered. Mix and roll out these cakes as fast as -possible, and avoid handling them more than you need. Paste made -_slowly_ is never light or flakey. Mix quick and roll quick. This is a -good plain paste for fruit pot-pies or dumplings. - -You may make common short cake for very healthy people, with two quarts -of flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound -of lard, mixed into the pan of meal with a very little cold water, and a -second quarter of lard spread all over the sheet of paste, after rolling -it out. Fold, sprinkle, and roll it out again into one round griddle -cake, or two if you have enough of dough. Take care, in baking, not to -have it smoked or blackened at the edge. When done, cut it into "pie -pieces," and send it to table to be split and buttered. - - -HALF MOONS.--Of this paste you may make half-moon pies. Cut the paste -into round cakes. On half the circle, lay plenty of stewed fruit well -sweetened, (for instance, stewed dried peach,) fold over it the other -half, pinch the two edges together, and crimp them. Bake them in an -oven, and eat them fresh. If you have fruit in the house ready stewed, -half-moon pies can be got up for a plain dessert on an emergency. Either -mince meat, or sausage meat, may be baked in half-moons. They will bake -very nicely, laid side by side, in large square tin pans, first dredged -slightly with flour. - - -SOFT MUFFINS.--Warm a quart of milk, and melt in it a quarter of a pound -of the best fresh butter, cut into bits. When melted, stir it about, and -set it away to cool. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and stir -them gradually into a pan of milk, and butter when it is quite cold. -Then, by degrees, stir in enough of sifted flour to make a batter as -thick as you can well beat it. Then, at the last, stir in three -table-spoonfuls of baker's or brewer's yeast. Cover the pan of batter -with a double cloth, and set it on the hearth (or some other warm place) -to rise, but it must not be allowed to get hot. It should have risen -nearly to the top of the pan, and be covered with bubbles in about three -hours. The griddle being heated, grease it with nice butter tied in a -rag; take a ladleful of batter out of the pan, pour it into the ring, -and bake the muffins. Send them hot to table, and split and butter them. -These are superior to all muffins. Those who have eaten them will never -desire any others, if this receipt has been faithfully followed. Try it. - - -SALLY LUNN CAKE.--This is a favorite tea cake, and so universally liked -that it is well to make a liberal quantity of the mixture, and bake it -in two loaves. Sift into a large pan three pounds of fine flour. Warm in -a quart of milk half a pound of fresh butter, and add a small -tea-spoonful of salt, six eggs well beaten, and add, gradually, two wine -glasses of excellent fresh yeast. Mix the flour well into the pan, (a -little at a time) and beat the whole very hard. Divide this quantity -into two equal portions, and set it to rise in two pans. Cover it with -thick cloths, and set it on the hearth to rise. When quite light, grease -two loaf-pans with the same butter used for the cakes, and bake it in a -moderate oven, keeping up the heat steadily to the last. It should be -thoroughly done all through. Send it to table hot, cut in slices, but -the slices left standing as in a pound cake at a party. - -The Sally Lunn mixture may be baked on a griddle, as muffins in muffin -rings, and split and buttered at table. - -In mixing this cake, add neither sugar nor spice. They do not improve, -but spoil it, as would be found on trial. It is the best of plain tea -cakes, if properly made and baked. - - -DELAWARE CAKES.--This is a plain tea cake. Sift into a pan two quarts of -flour. Cut up half a pound of fresh butter, and rub it into the flour -with your hands. Beat five eggs very light and thick; make a hole in the -centre of the flour, and gradually stir the beaten eggs, in turn with a -pint of milk. Then add a jill of fine fresh yeast. Mix the whole -thoroughly with a broad knife. Transfer it to large square tin pans. -Cover it with a clean flannel, and set it on the hearth to rise. When it -is quite light, and cracked all over the surface, divide the dough into -cakes and bake them in muffin rings, on a griddle or in a stove. If -baked in one large cake, there is a risk of their being made heavy, by -cutting them when hot. - -To make sweet cakes with the above mixture, add gradually to the flour -in the pan, half a pound of powdered sugar before you rub in the butter, -and after the eggs and milk. Stir in a wineglass of rosewater, or less, -if it is very strong, (which rosewater seldom is) and also it loses much -of its strength in cooking. Or, substitute the yellow rind and juice of -a lemon, and some powdered nutmeg. They will then be a cake for company; -otherwise, they will be for family teas. - -Either plain or sweet they are very good. We rather prefer them plain. -If plain, omit even sugar. Sugar, without other flavoring, gives plain -tea cakes a faint sickly taste, and is better left out entirely, except -for children--and they like any kind of sweetness, however little. - - -MARYLAND BISCUIT.--Take two quarts of sifted wheat flour, and add a -small tea-spoonful of salt. Rub into the pan of flour a large quarter of -a pound of lard, and add, gradually, warm milk enough to make a very -stiff dough. Knead the lump of dough long and hard, and pound it on all -sides with a rolling-pin. Divide the dough into several pieces, and -knead and pound each piece separately. This must go on for two or three -hours, continually kneading and pounding, otherwise it will be hard, -tough, and indigestible. Then make it into small round thick biscuits, -prick them with a fork, and bake them a pale brown. - -This is the most laborious of cakes, and also the most unwholesome, even -when made in the best manner. We do not recommend it; but there is no -accounting for tastes. Children should not eat these biscuits--nor grown -persons either, if they can get any other sort of bread. - -When living in a town where there are bakers, there is no excuse for -making Maryland biscuit. Believe nobody that says they are not -unwholesome. Yet we have heard of families, in country places, where -neither the mistress nor the cook knew any other preparation of wheat -bread. Better to live on indian cakes. - - -HOME-MADE BREAD.--You cannot have good bread without good flour, good -yeast, good kneading, and good baking, all united. Like many other -things, the best flour is always the cheapest in the end. There is none -better than that which comes from the mills of Hiram Smith, Rochester, -New York. All flour should be kept in a dry place, damp being always -injurious to it. Good flour goes farther than that of inferior quality, -and is both whiter and lighter. No skill will avail either in making or -baking bread, if the flour is of bad quality. Flour will keep much -better if, as soon as a new barrel is brought in, the whole of it is -sifted, and divided in several buckets. Flour buckets, made for the -purpose, are short and wide, are broader at the bottom than the top, and -have handles and lids. They are to be had of all coopers. Yeast must -always be of the best quality, strong and fresh. With too much yeast the -bread will be bitter; with too little it will be heavy; with stale yeast -it will be heavy, sour, and dark-colored. If baked too little, it -becomes tough and clammy. We deprecate the practice of putting hartshorn -in bread. It gives it a bad taste; and even if it produces a sort of -factitious lightness, it also renders it tough and difficult to -masticate, however nice it may look. Also, it is very unwholesome. - -The oven should be heated in time, to set in the bread as soon as ready. -When once it has risen to its utmost lightness, it will fall and turn -sour if permitted to stand. The only remedy for sour bread is, to melt -a table-spoonful of soda or pearlash in tepid water, and sprinkle it -over the dough, which must then be kneaded again, after it has rested -half an hour. In summer, do not begin your bread over night; it will -certainly be sour before morning. In winter you may do so, but keep it -all night in a warm (though not a hot) place. If the dough freezes, you -may throw it away at once. - -To knead, double up your hands, put them deep into the dough, and work -it with your knuckles, exerting all your strength. When the dough sticks -to them no longer, but leaves your bent fingers clean and clear, it is -time to cease kneading, for you have done enough for that time. - -Sift into a deep pan, or large wooden bowl, a peck of fine wheat flour, -(adding a large table-spoonful of salt,) and mix the water with half a -pint of strong fresh brewer's yeast, or near a whole pint if the yeast -is home-made. Pour this into the hole, in the middle of the heap of -flour. Mix in with a wooden spoon, a portion of the flour from the -surrounding edges of the hole so as to make a thick batter, and having -sprinkled dry flour over the top, let it rest for near an hour. This is -called "_setting the sponge_," or "_making the leaven_." When it has -swelled up to the surface, and burst through the coating of flour that -covered the hole, pour in as much more lukewarm water as will suffice to -mix the whole gradually into a dough. Knead it hard and thoroughly, -leaving no lumps in it, and continue to knead till the dough leaves -your hands. Throw over it a clean thick cloth, and set it in a warm -place to rise again. When it is quite light and cracked all over the -surface, divide it into loaves, and give each loaf a little more -kneading, and let it rest till it has risen as high as it will. Have -your oven quite ready, and (having transferred the loaves to pans, -sprinkled with flour,) bake them well. Try the heat of the oven by -previously throwing in a little flour. If it browns well, and you can -hold your hand in the heat while you count twenty, it is a good -temperature for bread. If the flour scorches black the oven is too hot, -so leave the oven open a little while till it becomes cooler. As soon as -the bread is quite done, take out the loaves, wrap each tightly in a -clean coarse cloth, damped by sprinkling it with water, and stand them -up on their edges. This will prevent the crust from becoming too hard. -Keep the loaves wrapped up after they are deposited in the bread box. - - -ROLLS--Are made as above, except that they are mixed with warm milk -instead of water, and a little fresh butter rubbed into the dough. - - -TWIST BREAD.--Before you put the dough into the baking pans, divide it -equally into long thick rolls, (smaller at the ends) and plait or twist -three together. - - -BRAN BREAD--Is made like any other, only of bran meal; and in setting -the sponge, put _wheat_ flour into the hole, and add to the liquid half -a tea-cupful of nice brown sugar. Bran bread should look very brown. It -should be eaten fresh. When stale, it is too dry and hard. Bran batter -cakes are made and baked like buckwheat. - - -RYE BREAD.--Is made like wheat bread, but that it requires more kneading -and baking. Rye batter cakes, made like buckwheat, should have one half -corn meal. - - -BREAD BISCUITS.--When making bread after the dough has risen very light, -take from it a quart or more; knead into it a quarter of a pound of -fresh butter, and form it into tall rolls. Bake them in an oven, and -when done break them apart, but do not cut them with a knife--or, bake -them in flat biscuits, to be split and buttered. Bread dough, with some -butter added to the mixture, will make plain cakes for children, with -the addition of white sugar, powdered cinnamon, some good raisins, -(stoned,) cut in half, and dredged well with flour, to prevent their -clodding or sinking. A beaten egg mixed into the dough is an -improvement. Children, (accustomed only to plain living,) like these -cakes very well, but they must be light and well baked. - - -BREAD CAKES.--Take slices of stale wheat bread, that has been well made -and light. There should be enough to fill a pint bowl, closely packed. -Put the bread into a deep dish, and pour boiling water upon it. While -the bread is soaking, mix in a crock or jar a pint of milk, and a pint -of wheat flour. Put the soaked bread into a cullender, and let the water -drain off. When the water is drained away, beat the bread _lightly_ with -a fork, but do not press or mash it. Beat two eggs very light and thick, -and gradually stir them into the flour and milk. Then stir in the bread. -Bake the mixture on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes, and eat -them hot with butter. This quantity is for a small family of four -persons. - -For a family of moderate size, take a quart of stale bread, a quart of -milk, a quart of flour, and four eggs. - -For a large family, two quarts of bread, two quarts of milk, two quarts -of flour, and eight eggs. This quantity will not be more than sufficient -for a large family, as they will all like these cakes. - -If you have not enough of stale bread in the house, send for a stale -loaf, rather than not have the proper proportion for the cakes. - - -MILK BISCUIT.--Warm a pint of milk on the top of the stove, and cut up -in it half a pound of fresh butter, to soften, but not to melt. Sift -into a pan two quarts of flour; make a hole in the middle of the flour, -and pour into it the milk and butter. Beat two eggs till very thick and -smooth, and pour them in also. Lastly, pour into the hole two -wine-glasses of strong fresh brewer's or baker's yeast; or, three of -good home-made yeast. Mix altogether with a broad knife, till it becomes -a lump of soft dough. Then knead it well on your pasteboard, and make it -into round rolls or balls. Knead every ball separately. Flatten them -with your hand into thick biscuits, and prick every one with a fork. Lay -them separately in buttered square pans, and set them to rise. If all is -right, they will be light in little more than an hour. When quite light, -(risen high and cracked all over) set them in a moderate oven, and bake -them a light brown. They should be eaten quite fresh. - - -RUSK.--Sift a quart of flour into a pan. Make a hole in the centre, and -pour in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut up and softened in -half a pint of milk warmed on the stove. Beat two eggs very light, and -mix them gradually into the hole in the pan of flour, in turn with a -small wine-glass of rose water; or a table-spoonful of the rose water if -as strong as it should be, adding a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace, -nutmeg, and cinnamon. Lastly, a wine-glass and a half of fresh brewer's -yeast. Mix those articles well into the flour, till it becomes a lump of -soft dough. Knead it well on your pasteboard, and divide it into pieces -of equal size. Knead each piece separately. Form them so as to be tall -and high, when finished. Butter an iron pan, lay the rusks in it side by -side, and set them in a warm place to rise again. When quite light, bake -them in a moderate oven, and sift sugar over them when cool. - - -DRY RUSKS.--Dry rusks are used for infant's food, and for invalids. They -are made plain, without any butter, spice, or rose water, and after -being once baked are split, and baked over till they are all crisp and -browned on the inside. Use them dissolved, by pouring on a little warm -water or milk, and beat them with a spoon to a thick pap. - - -CROSS BUNS.--Pick clean a pound and a half of dried or Zante currants; -wash, drain, and dry them on a large flat dish placed in a slanting -position near the fire, or in the sun. It will be still better to -substitute for the currants a pound of Sultana (or seedless) raisins, -each raisin cut in half. When quite dry, dredge the fruit _thickly_ with -flour to prevent their sinking or clodding in the cake. Sift into a deep -pan two quarts of flour, and mix thoroughly with it a table-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon, and three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar. Cut -up three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter, into a large half pint of -rich milk. Warm it till the butter is quite soft, but not till it melts. -Make a hole in the centre of the pan of flour, and pour in the mixed -liquid, adding a jill (or two wine-glasses) of strong fresh yeast. Mix -in the flour by degrees, beginning round the edge of the hole, and -proceed gradually till you have the whole mass of ingredients well -incorporated. Cover the pan with a clean thick towel, and set it in a -warm place to rise. When it has risen high, and is cracked all over, mix -in a small tea-spoonful of dissolved soda. Flour your pasteboard, divide -the dough into equal portions, mix in the plums, and _slightly_ knead it -into round cakes the size of a small saucer. Place them on a large dish, -cover them, and set them again to rise in a warm place for half an hour. -Mark every one deeply with a cross, bake them brown, and when done brush -each bun lightly over with a glazing of white of egg, sweetened with -sugar. - - -CINNAMON BREAD.--On a bread-baking day, (having made more than your -usual quantity of wheat bread,) when the dough has risen quite light, -and is cracked all over the surface, take out as much as will weigh two -pounds. Mix into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, that has been -cut up and melted in a half pint of milk; and also, three beaten eggs. -Incorporate the butter, milk, and egg, thoroughly with the dough, and -then add (dissolved in a little tepid water,) a salt-spoonful (_not -more_) of soda. Have ready mixed in a bowl a pint of _brown_ sugar, -moistened with fresh butter, so as to make a stiff paste, and flavor it -with two heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon. Form the cake into -the shape of a round loaf, and make deep incisions or cuts all over its -surface; filling them up with the cinnamon mixture pressed hard into the -cuts, pinching and closing the dough over them with your thumb and -finger to prevent the seasoning running out. Put the loaf into a round -pan, and set it into the oven to bake with the other bread. When cool, -glaze it over with white of egg, in which some powdered sugar has been -dissolved. Send it to table whole in form, but cut into loose slices. -Eat it fresh. All yeast cakes become dry and hard the next day. - -This mixture may be baked in a square iron pan, and cut into square -cakes when cool. - - -WAFFLES.--We are indebted to the Germans for this cake, which, if this -receipt is exactly followed, will be found excellent. Warm a quart of -milk, and cut up in it a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, -and stir it about to soften in the warm milk. Beat eight eggs till very -thick and smooth, and stir them gradually into the milk and butter, in -turn with half a pound of sifted flour. Then add two table-spoonfuls of -strong fresh brewer's or baker's yeast. Cover the pan with a clean thick -cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When the batter has risen -nearly to the top, and is covered with bubbles, it is time to bake; -first stirring in a wine-glass of rose-water. Having heated your -waffle-iron in a good fire, grease it inside with the fresh butter used -for the waffle mixture, or with fresh lard; fill it, and shut the iron -closely. Turn it on the fire, that both sides of the cake may be equally -well done. Each side will require about three minutes baking. Take them -out of the iron by slipping a knife underneath. Then grease and prepare -the iron for another waffle. Butter them, and send them to the tea-table -"hot and hot;" and, to eat with this, a bowl or glass dish of sugar -flavored with powdered cinnamon. - -In buying waffle irons choose them _very deep_, so as to make a good -impression when baked--if shallow, the waffle will look thin and poor. -Those that bake one waffle at a time are the handsomest and most -manageable. - - -SOFT CRULLERS.--Sift a pound and a half of flour, and have ready a pound -of powdered sugar. Heat in a round-bottomed sauce-pan a quart of water; -and when quite warm, stir the flour gradually into the water. In another -vessel set a pound of nice fresh butter over the fire, and when it -begins to melt, stir it, by degrees, into the flour and water. Then add, -gradually, the powdered sugar, and a grated nutmeg. Take the sauce-pan -off the fire, and beat the contents with a wooden spaddle, (which is far -better than a spoon) till they are thoroughly mixed. Next, having -beaten six eggs till very thick and light, stir them, gradually, into -the mixture, and then beat the whole very hard till it becomes a thick -batter. Add rose-water or lemon juice. Flour a pasteboard, and lay out -the batter upon it in the form of rings. The best and easiest way is to -pass it through a screw funnel. - -Have ready on the fire a pot of boiling lard. Put in the crullers, -taking them off the board one at a time, on a broad-bladed knife. Boil -but a few at a time. They must be of a fine brown. Lift them out with a -perforated skimmer, draining back the lard into the pot. Lay them on a -large dish, and dredge them with sugar. - -These, if properly managed, are far superior to all other crullers, but -they cannot be made in warm weather. - - -DOUGH-NUTS.--On baking day, take two pounds of very light bread dough -that has been made in the usual manner. Put it into a broad pan. Rub -into it half a pound of fresh butter, and half a pound of powdered -sugar, and a table-spoonful of mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. Wet it with -half a pint of milk, and mix in three well beaten eggs. Cover it, and -set by the fire to rise again. When quite light, flour your pasteboard, -and make the dough into oval balls; or, you may cut it into diamond -shapes, (handling it as little as possible.) Have ready, over the fire, -a pot of boiling lard. Drop the dough-nuts into it, and boil them; or -fry them brown in a frying-pan. Take them out one by one in a -perforated skimmer, draining back the lard into the pan. Spread them on -a large dish, and sift sugar over them. Eat them fresh; when heavy and -stale they are not fit. This is a German cake. - - -COMMON CRULLERS.--The above mixture for dough-nuts will make good -crullers. Flour your pasteboard, lay the dough upon it, roll it very -thick, and cut it into strips with a jagging iron. Take off short -pieces, and twist them into various forms. Throw them into a pot of -boiling lard. When done, drain the lard from them, spread them on a -large dish, and dredge them with powdered white sugar. - -The Alpistera is a Spanish cruller, shaped like the five fingers united -at the wrist. - - - - -PLAIN DESSERTS. - - -MOLASSES PUDDING.--Sift into a pan a large quart of yellow indian meal. -Simmer over the fire a quart of milk, a pint of _West India molasses_, -stirred in while the milk is hot. Put the milk and molasses into a large -pan, and mix gradually into them the corn meal while they are quite -warm. Add a large table-spoonful of ground ginger, and a heaped -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Beat the whole mixture long and -hard, for on that will chiefly depend the lightness of the pudding, as -it has neither eggs, butter, nor yeast. If your batter seems too thin, -add, gradually, a little more corn meal; if too thick, a little more -milk and molasses. - -Dip in hot water a large square pudding cloth. Spread it out in a pan, -dredge it well with flour, and then pour the pudding-mixture into it. -Tie it up, making the string very secure, but leave plenty of room -between the batter and the tying place, for the pudding to swell in -boiling, at least one-third. Put the pudding, directly, into a large -pot, and keep it steadily boiling for about three hours. Corn meal -requires long cooking. Turn the pudding twice with a fork. If the water -boils away too much, replenish it from a tea-kettle of hot water, kept -boiling for the purpose. If you pour in _cold_ water the pudding will -become hard and heavy, and be totally spoiled. Do not turn it out and -send it to table till wanted at dinner. Then dip it for a moment in cold -water, untie the string, and transfer it to a dish with a cover. Eat it -with molasses and butter; or make a sauce of drawn butter, flavored with -wine and nutmeg. - -This pudding, if properly mixed, well beaten, and well boiled, will be -as light as if made with eggs, (the _West India_ molasses having that -property) and it will cut down rough or open grained, like a very light -sponge cake, unless the batter has been made too thick and stiff, and -not sufficiently beaten, and not allowed space enough to swell in -boiling. If made _too thin_, or not boiled well, the pudding will come -out a soft, shapeless mass. But if all is carefully managed, this (the -least costly of American puddings) will be found excellent for a plain -table, and perfectly wholesome. The flavor will be much improved by -adding to the cinnamon and ginger the grated yellow rind and juice of an -orange or lemon. If your first attempt at this pudding is a failure, try -it again--practice makes perfect. - -For a large family, have two quarts of corn meal, two quarts of milk, -and one quart of _West India_ molasses; two table-spoonfuls of ginger, -and one of cinnamon. - -What is left may be tied in a cloth, and boiled over again next day, for -half an hour or longer. - - -MOLASSES PIE.--Make a plain paste, allowing a quart of flour to a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound of lard. -Cut up the butter into the pan of flour, and rub it into a dough, with a -half tumbler of cold water. Too much water is injurious to any paste, -rendering it tough and hard. Roll out the paste into a sheet, and with a -broad knife spread all over it one-half of the lard. Sprinkle it with -flour, fold it, and roll it out again. Spread on the remainder of the -lard, dredge it slightly, fold it again, and then divide it into two -sheets. Line with one sheet the inside of a pie-dish, and fill it with -molasses, mixed with butter, and flavored with ginger and cinnamon, or -lemon or orange. Put on the other sheet of paste as a lid to the pie. -Crimp or notch the edges. Bake it of a pale brown, and send it to table -fresh, but not hot. - - -MOLASSES POT-PIE.--Make plenty of paste, allowing to _each quart_ of -flour a small half pound of finely minced suet. Line the pot -three-quarters up the sides with paste, and put in a quart of West India -molasses, flavored with ginger and cinnamon, lemon or orange grating, -and juice. Cover it with a lid of paste, _not fitting closely_ round its -edges, and cut a cross slit in the top. Have ready six or eight extra -pieces of suet paste, cut into squares, and boiled by themselves. When -the pie is done, put these little cakes (ready boiled) into the -molasses, having removed the lid or cover of the pie, and cut it up. -Take out the inside paste, and cut it in pieces also. Serve up the whole -in one large dish. - - -BATTER PUDDING.--Having beaten eight eggs till very thick and smooth, -stir them gradually into a pan of milk, in turn with eight -table-spoonfuls of flour, added by degrees. Give the whole a hard -stirring at last. Dip a square pudding cloth into hot water, shake it -out, dredge it with flour, and spread it over the inside of an empty -pan. Pour the pudding mixture into it. Gather up the cloth, leaving -ample space for the pudding to swell in boiling, and securing the -string tightly. Put the pudding into a large pot of boiling water, and -boil it fast and steadily for two hours. Turn it with a large fork once -or twice while boiling. When done, dip it for a moment in cold water, -that you may turn it out easily. Send it to table hot, and eat it with -any sauce you like, from molasses, or butter and sugar, to wine sauce. -This, if exactly followed, is the very best receipt for a plain batter -pudding. It may be made of corn meal, or wheat bread-crumbs, (eight -table-spoonfuls to eight eggs, and one quart of milk.) Corn meal -requires with it one or two spoonfuls of wheat flour for this pudding. - -We cannot approve of boiling batter puddings in moulds, as they are -rarely allowed sufficient space for swelling, and are therefore tough -and solid. Also, it is frequently very difficult to get a hot pudding -out of a mould. - -The above pudding is very nice baked in the dripping pan under a piece -of roast beef or veal. - - -FRITTERS.--Make the same mixture as for batter pudding. Eight eggs -beaten very light and thick, and stirred gradually into a quart of milk, -in turn with eight spoonfuls of flour; and, when all are united, beat -the whole very hard. In a large frying-pan melt a pound of lard, and -when it comes to a boil, put in with a large spoon a half tea-cupful of -batter. Fry them fast, a panful at a time, and as they require no -stirring they will soon be done. For the next panful, add half a pound -more of lard, and see that it is boiling well all the time. If there is -not enough of lard, or if it only simmers, the fritters will stick to -the bottom, and be heavy, dark, and greasy. Send them to table "hot and -hot," sprinkled with sugar. Eat them with sugar, cinnamon, and white -wine. This is the best possible receipt for plain fritters. - - -ORANGE FRITTERS.--For frying fruit fritters use nice fresh butter. Peel, -and cut into round slices (not very thin) some fine oranges, removing -the seeds carefully. Put into each fritter (while frying) a slice of -orange, and dredge with sugar. Eat them with sweetened orange juice. -These are fritters for company. - - -PEACH FRITTERS.--Take large ripe free-stone peaches, the best you can -get. Peel them, cut them in half, remove the stones, and put some loaf -sugar into the cavities from whence you took them. Have ready, in a -large frying-pan over the fire, an ample quantity of nice fresh butter, -boiling fast. Put in the batter, and to every spoonful allow half a -peach, laid on its back. When done take them up separately, and drain -the butter back into the pan. Serve up the fritters dredged with white -sugar. You may color these fritters pink by mixing in the batter a -little prepared alkanet, the chips tied up in a thin muslin bag, and -laid in a small saucer of sweet oil. Stir the colored oil into the -batter; it has no taste, but the color is beautiful. Fritters may be -colored green by mixing in the batter some of the juice obtained from -pounded spinach leaves. - - -APPLE OR QUINCE FRITTERS.--Pare and core some pippin or bell-flower -apples, or ripe quinces. Cut them into round slices, and fry one in -every fritter. Eat them with sweetened lemon juice. You may make -fritters with a large table-spoonful of any thick marmalade in the -centre. Or, with a large fresh oyster in the middle of each. Or, with a -table-spoonful of minced meat. These, also, are company fritters. - - -PANCAKES--Are very inferior to good fritters, and much more troublesome -to bake. They are the same ingredients mixed thinner; are also fried in -lard, and must be turned by tossing them over (one at a time) in the -frying-pan. - - -JUNKET.--Having turned a quart of rich milk, by stirring into it a half -tea-cupful of the water in which two or three square inches of rennet -has been soaked for several hours, set the milk in a covered pitcher, in -a warm place, till it becomes a firm curd, the whey separating from it, -and looking thin and greenish. Keep it on ice till just before it is -wanted for table. Then transfer it to a large bowl, and sweeten it well -with white sugar. Mix in two glasses of sweet wine, and grate over it a -nutmeg. It is very nice with extract of vanilla added to the wine, &c. - -It is not a good way to preserve a rennet by cutting it into little -pieces, and keeping it in wine, stirring the wine into milk when you -wish to form a curd. If turned with rennet wine, the curd will never -separate completely from the whey, which will therefore be always thick -and whitish. By using rennet water, the whey will be pure, thin, and of -a light green, and the curd very white and firm. In Philadelphia market, -dried rennets (which will keep a year or two hanging up in a cool dry -closet) are universally used to make curds, and are always to be bought -at small prices. They are cured by salting them, and stretching on a -bent rod. To use this rennet, cut off a small bit, and soak it several -hours, or over night, in a cup of lukewarm water. Then stir this water -into the milk. - - -MILK POTTAGE OR FARMER'S RICE.--Take some rich milk, and put it on to -boil in a pot of sufficient size. When it has begun to boil, stir in, by -degrees, enough of wheat flour to make it about as thick as the general -consistence of rice milk, and boil it well, stirring it frequently down -to the bottom. Add a few blades of mace, or some powdered cinnamon. -Knead together some flour and fresh butter, forming a lump of white -paste. Divide the paste into small round dumplings about the size of a -cent, and put them to boil with the milk. When the pottage is well -boiled, take it up, and transfer it to a tureen or deep white-ware dish, -and make it very sweet with good brown sugar. Grate some nutmeg over the -surface. - -This is an excellent addition to a winter supper-table, and is much -liked by children, for whom it is also good at the end of a plain -dinner. As a substitute for rice milk, it is better and more wholesome -than rice itself. - - -PLAIN RICE PUDDING.--Pick some rice, carefully removing from it the -husks, and all impurities; and if you find it the least sour or musty, -throw it away, and get some that is perfectly good. Wash it through two -or three waters, till it drains off quite clean. Stir a quarter of a -pound of this rice into a quart of good rich milk. If the milk is poor -and thin, and has been skimmed till it is blue, or mixed with water, the -pudding will be poor accordingly. In the country where cream is easily -to be obtained, add some to the milk which you use for the rice pudding. -Stir in also a quarter of a pound of good brown sugar, and a -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Set the pudding into an oven, and -bake till a brown skin covers the surface, and the rice is quite soft, -which you may ascertain by lifting a bit of the brown skin from the edge -and trying the rice. Eat it warm or cold. It is usual in the country to -put several of these rice puddings into the oven on baking days. - -They will be greatly improved by the addition of two or three beaten -eggs, and a few bits of fresh butter, stirred in with the rice and -sugar. Also powdered cinnamon. Rice is in itself so tasteless, that it -requires good flavoring. - - -PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING.--Pick, wash, and drain a pound of rice. -Moisten it with a quart of milk. Have ready a pound of seedless raisins. -Dredge them well all over with flour to prevent their sinking. Stir them -gradually into the rice and milk. Boil it in a cloth, leaving ample -space for it to swell. Keep the water very hot all the time. Eat it with -butter and sugar, seasoned with ground cinnamon. - - -RICE CUPS.--Boil in water, in the usual manner, a pound or more of -cleaned rice till it is perfectly soft. Drain it well, and mix it with a -quart of milk, seasoned with a mixed table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon -and nutmeg or mace. Boil it a second time till all the grains are -dissolved into a smooth mass, and their form cannot be distinguished. -Mould it in large tea-cups, pint bowls, or blanc-mange moulds; and when -it has taken the desired form, turn it out on dishes, and serve up with -it a small tureen of wine sauce, or of boiled custard made very sweet, -and seasoned, by boiling in the milk of which the custard was made a -few peach leaves, or some bitter almonds broken up, or a broken-up stick -of cinnamon, to be taken out when it is done. - - -BREAD PUDDING.--Grate or crumble as much stale wheat bread (omitting the -crust) as will fill a pint bowl when done. Boil a pint of good milk with -a broken-up stick of cinnamon in it. Strain the milk, and pour it -(boiling) over the bread. Sweeten it with three large table-spoonfuls of -sugar. Stir in one or two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Beat -four eggs till very thick and smooth, and add them, gradually, to the -mixture, when it is lukewarm. It will be much improved by the grated -peel and juice of a lemon or orange. Bake it in a deep dish or mould; -sift white sugar over it. Eat it warm, with sweet sauce flavored with -nutmeg. - - -BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.--Cut large even slices of yesterday's bread, -(_leaving on_ the crust) and spread them well with fresh butter. Strew -over them thickly half a pound of Zante currants, picked and washed. -Make a batter of four beaten eggs and a large pint of milk, seasoned -with powdered nutmeg or mace. Pour some of this batter into the bottom -of a deep white dish. Then put on as many slices of bread and currants -as will cover the bottom. Next, add the remainder of the batter, and -finish with slices of bread and butter strewed with currants. Bake till -the batter is set and firm. When done, serve it up warm. - - -A BROWN BETTY.--Pare, core, and slice thin some fine _juicy_ apples. -Cover with the apples the bottom of a large deep white-ware dish. -Sweeten them well with plenty of brown sugar; adding grated lemon or -orange peel. Strew over them a thick layer of bread-crumbs, and add to -the crumbs a _very few_ bits of fresh butter. Then put in another layer -of cut apples and sugar, followed by a second layer of bread-crumbs and -butter. Next more apples and sugar; then more bread-crumbs and butter; -repeat this till the dish is full, finishing it with bread-crumbs. Bake -it till the apples are entirely done and quite soft. Send it to table -hot. It will be improved (if in the country at cider-making season) by -adding to each layer of apples a very little sweet unfermented cider, -fresh from the press. - -This pudding is in some places called an Apple Pandowdy. We believe it -is Brown Betty in the South; Pandowdy in the North. It is a good plain -pudding if the butter is fresh and sweet, and not too much of it. The -apples must be _juicy_ and _not_ sweet. Sweet apples never cook well. - - -SWEETENED SWEET POTATOS.--The sweet potatos should be all about the same -size, or else so large as to require splitting. Boil them till, on -probing them with a fork, you find them soft all through. Peel off the -skin, and trim off the sharp points of each end. Place them in a large -baking dish, and lay among them some pieces of fresh butter; sprinkle -powdered sugar _profusely_ over them and among them, especially in the -vacancies between the potatos. Set the dish into a moderate oven, and -bake slowly till the butter and sugar are all melted and blended -together, forming a nice crust. They should be eaten not with the meat, -but _after_ it. They make a good supper or luncheon dish, and a plain -dessert at dinner for plain-living people. - -Sufficient butter and sugar will make the crust like a thick syrup, when -broken. They should be cooked this way only when in the height of their -season, and perfectly fresh and nice. When sweet potatos are old enough -to decay at the ends, give them up. Large sweet potatos may be first -boiled; then peeled and sliced thick, sprinkled thick with sugar, and -fried in fresh butter or lard; the lard well drained from them as they -are taken up. Eat _them_ with meat. - -They are good boiled very soft, peeled and sent to table mashed, (while -hot) with fresh butter--or made into thick flat cakes, and browned on -the top. - -It is a great waste to bake sweet potatos whole. If baked enough, (as -they seldom are) they "go all to skin." - - -APPLE DUMPLINGS.--For dumplings the apples should be large and -juicy--pippins, bellflowers, or the best you can get. Small sweet apples -make very poor dumplings. Having pared the apples, extract the cores -with a tin apple-corer, so as to leave them smooth and whole. Why is it -that so many families "have never had an apple corer in their house?" -They cost, at the utmost, but twenty-five cents, are to be had at all -the tinsmiths' and furnishing stores; and they screw out an apple core -in a minute; saving time and trouble. The apples being ready, make a -nice paste in the proportion of a small pint of finely-minced suet, to a -large quart of flour; one-half of the suet rubbed into the pan of flour, -(adding _a very little_ water) the other half sliced thin, and spread -all over the sheet of dough after it is rolled out; then folding it, and -rolling it out again. Cut the sheet of dough in as many circular pieces -as you have apples, allowing them large enough to close entirely over -the top, and rolling it thick enough to hold the apple securely without -danger of its breaking through. Put an apple on every piece of paste, -and fill with brown sugar the hole from whence the core was taken. -Squeeze on the sugar some fresh lemon juice, with the grated yellow -rind; or, add some powdered nutmeg or mace, or some rose-water. This -will make them very nice. They should be boiled in small cloths kept -clean for the purpose, dipped in hot water, and sprinkled with flour, -and room left for the dumpling to swell. Put them into a pot of boiling -water, and boil them steadily for near an hour. Serve them up very hot, -as they become heavy when cold. Eat with them butter and sugar, or cream -sauce. - - -PEACH DUMPLINGS.--Take large fine free-stone peaches. Peel them, cut -them in half, and extract the stones; fill the sockets with white sugar, -and put the two halves together. Make a nice suet paste, or, if more -convenient, of butter, but it must be quite fresh, and very nice. Allow -half a pound of butter to a large quart (or a pound) of sifted flour. -Rub half the butter into the pan of flour, and make it into a dough, -with a very little cold water. Too much water always makes tough heavy -paste. Then roll the paste into a sheet, and put on it with a knife the -remainder of the butter in regular bits. Fold it, roll it out again, and -divide it into circular pieces. Lay a peach on each. Gather up the dough -over the top, so as to form a well-shaped dumpling. Boil them in cloths -for full three-quarters of an hour or more. Eat them with cream sauce. - -Dumplings of raspberries, or blackberries, may be made as above. Also, -of gooseberries or currants, made very sweet. Quinces preserved whole -make excellent dumplings. - - -APPLE PUDDINGS--Are made like large dumplings, with suet paste, and -flavored with lemon, or rose, or nutmeg. The apples must be sliced. The -pudding should be tied in a cloth; put into a pot of fast-boiling water, -kept steadily boiling for two hours or more, and sweetened with brown -sugar as soon as it is taken up, cutting a round piece of paste out of -the top, and putting in with the sugar a small piece of fresh butter. - -Large puddings may be made in this manner of stoned cherries, damsons, -or plums, or of gooseberries, or currants--allowing plenty of fruit, and -making it very sweet; besides sending sugar to table with it. - - -ROLLED PUDDING.--Have ready a quart or more of apples stewed with _very -little_ water, sweetened with brown sugar, and flavored with lemon or -rose. Prepare a nice suet paste. Roll it out, and cut it into a square -sheet. Spread it _thickly_ with the stewed fruit, (not extending the -fruit quite to the edges of the dough) and roll it up as far as it will -go. Close it nicely at each end. Tie it in a cloth, dipped in hot water -and floured, and put it into a fast-boiling pot. Boil it well. Cut it -down in round slices. Eat it with butter and sugar beaten together, or -with cream sauce. You may make this pudding of any sort of thick -marmalade, spread over the sheet of paste; or, with ripe uncooked -currants, raspberries, or blackberries, mashed raw, sweetened, and -spread on thickly. This pudding is the same that common English people -call a "Jack in a blanket;" and sometimes "a Dog in a blanket." The -_blanket_ is supposed to mean the paste; the _dog_ is probably the -fruit. - - -FRUIT POT-PIES.--These are made in a pot lined with paste, interspersed -with small squares of the same dough, and covered with a paste lid. The -filling is of dried apples, peaches quartered, blackberries, -raspberries, ripe currants, or gooseberries; all well sweetened, and -cooked in their own juice, with a small tea-cupful of water at the -bottom to "start them." Both fruit and paste must be perfectly well -done. - -Fruit pot-pies are easier made and cooked, than fruit puddings or -dumplings. We recommend them highly for plain tables. They require more -sugar when they are dished. A large _bain-marie_ is excellent for -cooking any sort of pot-pie, the water being all in the outside kettle. - - -PLAIN BAKED CUSTARD.--Boil a quart of milk, with a small bunch of green -peach leaves in it, or a half dozen of peach kernels broken up. When the -milk has boiled well strain it into a broad pan, and set it away to -cool. In a shallow pan beat six eggs till very light, thick, and smooth. -Stir them, gradually, into the milk, in turn with a tea-cup of white -sugar, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon or mace. Transfer the -mixture to a deep white dish, set it into the oven, and bake it till -the top is well browned, but not scorched. When done, set it away to -cool, and grate nutmeg over the surface. - - -BOILED CUSTARD.--Make exactly the above mixture; but instead of baking, -boil it in a porcelain lined sauce-pan, stirring it all the time. As -soon as it comes to a boil, take it immediately from the fire, or it -will curdle. Put it into a glass or china pitcher, and set it to cool. A -_bain-marie_ is excellent for boiled custard. - -If custards are baked in cups, set them in an iron pan half full of warm -water. If too hot, or kept baking too long, they will be tough and -porous, and have whey at the bottom. So they will if the milk is warm -when the eggs are added. Good custards will cut down to the very bottom -as smooth and firm as the best blanc-mange. - - -APPLES BAKED WHOLE.--Never bake apples without paring and coring. They -will be found nearly all skin and core, and are troublesome and -inconvenient to eat. Have fine large apples; take off a thin paring, and -extract the core with a tin corer. Fill up the holes with brown sugar. -Place the apples, side by side, in a square tin pan, set them in an -oven, and bake them till, when tried with a fork, you find them soft all -through. Send them to table warm, but not burning hot. If you have -country cream to eat with them, so much the better. - - -BAKED PEARS.--Take good-sized pears. Small ones are not worth the -trouble of cooking. Peel them, split them in half, and remove the core, -the stem, and the blossom end. Strew them well with brown sugar, and lay -them on their backs in a large baking dish. A narrow slip of the yellow -rind of lemon or orange, (cut so thin as to look transparent,) will be a -great improvement, laid in the hollow of each pear. Also the juice -squeezed. Put into the dish sufficient molasses or steam-syrup to well -cover the pears. Place them in an oven, and bake them till they are -soft, but not till they break. If you have no lemon or orange, season -them with ground ginger or cinnamon. - -The great pound pears are baked as above, with the addition of port wine -and a few cloves, and colored red with a little cochineal. - - -COUNTRY CHARLOTTE.--Slice or quarter some fine juicy apples, having -pared and cored them. Put them on a large dish, sweeten them well with -brown sugar, set them in the oven, and bake them till soft enough to -mash smoothly. Then cut some slices of bread, butter them slightly, and -dip every one in sweet cider fresh from the press. Let them soak in the -cider a short time, but not till they break. Take them out of the -cider, spread every one thickly with the mashed apple, (sprinkling on -more sugar) and send them to the dinner table in a deep dish or pan. - - -A PLAIN CHARLOTTE.--Stew very nicely any sort of ripe fruit, (currants, -gooseberries, blackberries, stoned cherries, or stoned plums,) and as -soon as you take them from the fire make them very sweet with brown -sugar. Prepare some large slices of buttered bread, with the crust pared -off. Cover each slice thickly with the stewed fruit. Lay some in the -bottom of a deep dish, and stand up others all round its sides. Fill up -the dish with the same, and sift white sugar over the surface. - -It may be made of sliced sponge-cake, spread thickly with stewed dried -peaches. - - -GOOSEBERRY FOOL.--This foolish name signifies an excellent preparation -of gooseberries; stewed, mashed, and made very sweet with brown sugar. -Have ready in another dish a good boiled custard. When all has become -cool, mix well together in a large bowl the stewed gooseberries and the -custard, and season the mixture well with nutmeg. It will be found very -good. - -Any other "fool" may be made in the same manner, of stewed fruit and -boiled custard. It saves the trouble and expense of making paste, or -can be prepared at a shorter notice. It is good either at dinner or -tea. - -We hope somebody will think of a better name for it. - - -POTATO PASTE.--Boil three moderate-sized potatos till very soft. Then -peel and mash them fine and smooth. Put them into a deep pan, and mix -them well with a quart of flour and a half pint of lard; or what is -better, with that quantity of beef dripping, or the dripping of fresh -roast pork. Never for any sort of crust use mutton dripping. Having -mixed the mashed potato, dripping, and flour into a lump, roll it out -into a thick sheet. Sprinkle it with flour, and spread over it evenly a -thin layer of dripping or lard. Fold it again, and set it in a cool -place till wanted. It is good for meat pies, and for boiled meat -pudding, or any sort of dumplings. - - -VERY PLAIN PIE-CRUST.--Sift a quart of flour into a pan. Mix together, -with a knife, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a -pound of lard, and when they are well blended mix them with the flour, -and form them into a dough with as little water as possible--the water -being very cold. Use ice water in summer. Avoid touching the paste with -your hands, but use a knife almost entirely. If your hand is warm, do -not rub butter into flour with it, but manage all the mixing with a -knife. If you have a cool hand, you may rub the butter into the flour, -and reserve the lard to spread all over the sheet of dough. Roll it out -lightly. Dredge with flour, fold it, spread on the lard, and roll it -again. Divide it into two pieces, and roll out each of them. Trim the -edges nicely, and make them to fit your pie-dish. If one is for bottom -crust, roll it out thinnest towards the centre, having for this part of -the process a very small rolling-pin, but a finger long. Grease with -lard a deep dish, or soup plate, and line it with the bottom crust. Fill -it up with the fruit you intend for the pie, sweetened well with brown -sugar, and heaping the fruit high in the centre. Cover it with a lid of -paste, trim, and notch the edges neatly, and make a cross slit in the -top; set it in the oven, and bake it steadily till it is a light brown. -When it seems to be done, lift up a small piece at one side to try if -the fruit is soft. Apples for pies should be pared, cored, and sliced -very thin. If green, stew them before they are baked. - -If you have saved enough of the dripping of roast beef, veal, or pork, -(skimmed and put away in a covered crock) it will be good shortening for -common pies--far superior to salt butter, and much lighter. Salt renders -pastry hard and heavy. - -Never use suet for _baked_ paste. It is only for dumplings and pot-pies. -Bread dough, or any dough made with yeast, is not good when boiled, -becoming tough and leathery, and being very unwholesome. - -Except in very plain country places a fruit pie, with two crusts, -(under and upper) is now seen but rarely. _Meat_ pies, or birds, -however, should have two crusts. The gravy is a great improvement to the -under one. English people usually make their fruit pies with a top-crust -only, putting a turned down tea-cup under the centre of the lid to -collect the juice, (of course removing the cup when the pie is cut.) It -is a good method in a country where the cost of flour is high. - -Too much economy in the shortening will infallibly make the crust very -poor, hard, heavy, and unwholesome. If you cannot afford dessert paste, -do not attempt pies at all; but substitute a plain charlotte, or slices -of bread and butter, covered with stewed fruit, sweetened, and laid in a -deep dish. - - -COMMON FRUIT PIES.--Make the paste as above. For baking, use only apples -that are juicy, and rather sour. If green, stew them before they are put -in the pie, and make them very sweet with brown sugar. Peaches should be -peeled and quartered, leaving out the stones. Of cherries, take the -large red juicy pie cherries. Black cherries, (when baked) go all to -stones, and they are not worth the trouble of cooking, though very good -when eaten from the trees. Currants must be carefully stripped from the -stems, and made very sweet. Gooseberries must be "top and tailed," and -require great sweetening; so do cranberries. Blackberries make good -plain pies, and are very juicy if ripe. All pies should be well filled. - -Pies may be made of ripe wild grapes, stewed in molasses or maple sugar. - - -EXCELLENT PLAIN PASTE.--Sift into a deep pan a quart and a pint of the -best superfine flour. Have ready (set on ice, and covered with a thick -double cloth) a pound of the very best fresh butter. When you want to -use it, cut it into four quarters. Cut one quarter into very little -bits, and with a broad knife mix it well into the flour, adding, by -degrees, a very little water, no more than half a tumbler. Some flour, -however, requires more water than others. Avoid touching the dough with -your hands, in case they should be warm. Take out the lump of dough, -dredge it with flour, and lay it on your pasteboard. Keep on a plate -near you a little extra flour for sprinkling and rolling. Roll out the -sheet of dough very thin, having floured the rolling-pin to prevent its -sticking. Place, with a knife, the second quarter of butter in little -bits all over the sheet of paste, at equal distances. Then fold it -square, (covering the butter with the corners of paste) dredge it, and -roll it out again to receive the third quarter of butter. Repeat this -again, till all the butter is in; always rolling very fast, and pressing -on _lightly_. You will see, towards the last, the paste puffing into -little blisters all over the surface; a sign of success. When the last -layer of butter is all in, roll the whole into a large sheet; roll it -round like a scroll, and put it away in a cold place, but not so cold -as to freeze it, for it will then be spoiled. When you are ready for it -bring it out, cut it down, and roll out each piece ready for use. There -is no better family paste than this, for all sorts of pies; meat or bird -pies, especially. - - -LEMON BREAD PUDDING.--Mince very fine a quarter of a pound of beef suet. -Have ready a pint and a half of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Prepare the -yellow rind of a large lemon, grated off from the white skin beneath, -and squeeze the juice among it. Mix together in a deep pan the -bread-crumbs and suet, adding four or five table-spoonfuls of powdered -sugar, and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. -Beat in a broad shallow pan five eggs till very smooth and thick. Add -them gradually to the other ingredients, a little at a time. Have ready -a square pudding-cloth, scalded and floured. Pour in the mixture, and -tie the cloth tightly, but not closely, as room must be left for the -pudding to swell in boiling. Put it into a pot of hot water, and boil it -steadily for two hours. Send wine sauce to table with it--or cold sauce, -of beaten butter, and sugar, and nutmeg. - -If you use butter instead of suet, you can bake this pudding. - - -PLAIN PLUM PUDDING.--This is for a small plain-living family. Chop very -fine half a pound of nice fresh beef suet. Stone a half pound of very -good raisins, or use the sultana or seedless sort. Dredge them well on -all sides with flour to prevent their sinking to the bottom. Grate the -yellow rind of a large fresh lemon, and strain the juice into the saucer -on which you have grated the rind. It will be still better if you use -the rind and juice of an orange as well as of a lemon. Put into a bowl -half a pint of grated bread-crumbs, and a heaped table-spoonful of -flour, and pour on them a half pint of boiling milk. Beat in a shallow -pan four eggs till very thick and light. Mix the suet gradually into the -bread, adding alternately the beaten egg, (a little at a time) the lemon -and orange, and four heaped table-spoonfuls of sugar. Lastly, stir in by -degrees, the raisins, well floured. Put the mixture into a square -pudding-cloth spread out into a deep pan, and dipped in boiling water. -Tie it securely, leaving room to swell. Boil it three hours. - -Eat with it a sauce of butter, sugar, and nutmeg, beaten together. - - - - -FINE DESSERTS. - - -THE BEST PUFF-PASTE.--To a pound of the best fresh butter allow a pound -of the finest flour, sifted into a deep pan. Have on a plate some -additional sifted flour for sprinkling and rolling in. Divide the pound -of butter into four equal parts, and three of those parts divide again -into two portions. Mix the first quarter of butter into the mass of -flour, cutting it with a broad-bladed knife. If your hands are naturally -warm, avoid touching the dough with them, as their heat will render it -heavy. Paste, to be very good, should be made on a marble slab. All -well-furnished kitchens or pastry rooms should be provided with -marble-topped tables, and marble mortars. Add gradually to the lump of -dough a _very little cold_ water, barely sufficient to moisten it with -the first quarter of butter, and mix it well with the aid of the broad -knife; but proceed as fast as you can, and do not work with it too long. -Too much water will render it tough, and too much working will make it -heavy. Then sprinkle the marble slab with some of the spare flour, take -the lump of paste from the pan, and roll it out into a sheet. Divide one -of the portions of butter into little bits, and with the knife disperse -them equally all over the sheet of paste. Then sprinkle it again with -flour, fold it up so as to cover the butter, and roll it out again. -Proceed in this manner till you have got in all the butter, rolling -always lightly, and you will soon see the surface of the dough puffing -up in little blisters, a sign that it is becoming light. Besides the -first mixing in the lump, the butter will then be put in with what are -called six turns. When baked, you will see that every turn makes a layer -or sheet. If you choose to multiply them, you may make nine sheets. We -have seen twelve. All this must be done fast and lightly. Then put away -the paste to cool for ten minutes before arranging it in the dishes. -This quantity will make two pies or four tarts. In baking, let the oven -be hot, and keep up a steady heat, so the paste may not fall after it -has first risen. When pale brown, it is done. - - -SHELLS.--For shells take the best puff paste, and line with it large -deep plates, the size of a soup-plate. They should have broad rims. -Notch the edges of the paste handsomely with a sharp penknife, and be -careful not to plaster on, afterwards, any bits by way of mending or -rectifying an error. When baked, every patch in the border will show -itself plainly. Bake the shells entirely empty, till pale brown all -over. When cool fill them, _quite up the top_, with whatever marmalade -or stewed fruit you have prepared for the purpose. In this way (baking -them empty,) the shells are thoroughly done, and not clammy and heavy at -the bottom, as they always are when filled _before_ baking. The fruit -requires no other cooking, having been done once already. Sift white -sugar over the surface. If for company whip some cream, sweeten it, and -flavor it with lemon, orange, pine-apple, strawberry or vanilla, and -pile it on the surface of the shell before it goes to table. - -Small tarts may, in this way, be baked empty, for patty-pans, and filled -with ripe fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or grated -pine-apple, made very sweet, and creamed on the top--or you may fill the -shells with any sort of sweetmeats, either preserves or marmalade, or -with mince-meat. Shells may be made thus, and filled with stewed -oysters, or reed-birds, cooked previously, and served up warm; or with -nicely-dressed lobster. You may make lids for them of the same paste -baked by itself on a shallow plate, and when taken off fitting well as a -cover to put on afterwards before sending to table. - - -BORDERS OF PASTE.--These are made of fine puff-paste cut into handsome -patterns, or wreaths of leaves or flowers. They are laid round the broad -edge of the deep plate that contains a rich pudding, such as lemon, -orange, almond, cocoa-nut, pine-apple, &c.; the dish being full down to -the bottom and up to the top, and having no paste but the border round -the edge. They must be baked in the dish on which they come to table, -and not in tin or iron, as the pudding cannot be transferred. At -handsome tables, a pudding baked with a paste _under_ it (lining the -dish,) is now seen but seldom. - -Instead of wreaths, you may make a puff-paste border by laying a thick -evenly cut band of paste round the flat rim of the dish, and notching -it, forming with a penknife small squares about an inch wide, and -turning one square up and one square down alternately, _cheveux de -frize_ fashion. Or you may make the squares near two inches wide and -turn over one corner sharp, leaving the other flat. This looks pretty -when baked, if the paste is _very puff_. - - -LEMON PUDDING.--To make two puddings take two fine large ripe lemons, -and rub them under your hand on a table. Grate off the thin yellow rind -upon a large lump of loaf sugar. Cut the lemon, and squeeze the juice -into a saucer through a strainer, to avoid the seeds. Put half a pound -of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, (including the sugar on -which you have rubbed the lemons) and cut up in it half a pound of the -best fresh butter, adding the juice. Stir them to a light cream with a -wooden spaddle, which is shorter than a mush-stick, and flattened at one -end; that end rather thin, and rather broad. Beat in a shallow pan, -(with hickory rods) six eggs, till very thick and smooth, and stir them -gradually into the mixture. Have ready some of the best puff-paste, made -in the proportion of a pint or half a pound of very nice fresh butter to -a pint or half a pound of sifted flour. Take china or white-ware dishes -with broad rims. Butter the rim, and lay round it neatly a border of the -paste. _Put no paste inside the dish beneath the mixture._ Fill each -dish to the top with the pudding mixture, and set it immediately into -the oven. It will bake in about half an hour When done, and browned on -the surface, set it to cool, and send it to table in the dish it was -baked in. - -Fine puddings are now made without an under crust, but merely a handsome -border of puff-paste laid round the edge, and helped with the pudding. -Sift sugar over the surface. This quantity will make one large pudding, -or two small ones. - -To almost all puddings the flavor of lemon or orange is an improvement. -A genuine _baked_ lemon pudding, (such as was introduced by the justly -celebrated Mrs. Goodfellow,) and is well known at Philadelphia dinner -parties, must have _no flour_ or bread whatever. The mixture only of -butter, sugar, and eggs, (with the proper flavoring) and when baked it -cuts down smooth and shining, like a nice custard. Made this way, they -are among the most delicious of puddings; but, of course, are not -intended for children or invalids. We have already given numerous -receipts for _plain_ family desserts. In this _chapter_ the receipts are -"for company." The author was _really_ a pupil of Mrs. Goodfellow's, and -for double the usual term, and while there took notes of every thing -that was made, it being the desire of the liberal and honest -instructress that her scholars _should learn in reality_. - - -ALMOND PUDDING.--Blanch in hot water a quarter of a pound of shelled -sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, and as you blanch them throw -them into a bowl of cold water. When all are thus peeled, take them out -singly, wipe them dry in a clean napkin, and lay them on a plate. Pound -them one at a time in a marble mortar till they become a smooth paste, -adding frequently a few drops of rose-water to make them light and -preserve their whiteness, mixing the bitter almonds with the sweet. As -you pound them, take out the paste and lay it in a saucer with a -tea-spoon. Without the rose-water they will become oily and -dark-colored. Without a few bitter almonds the others will be insipid. -The almonds may be thus prepared a day before they are wanted for use. -Cut up a large quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a large quarter of -a pound of powdered sugar, and stir them together with a spaddle till -very light and creamy. Add a large wine-glass of mixed wine and brandy, -and half a grated nutmeg. Beat, till they stand alone, the whites only -of six eggs, and stir them gradually into the butter and sugar, in turn -with the pounded almonds. Stir the whole very hard at the last. Put the -mixture into a deep dish with a broad rim, and fill it up to the top, -laying a border of puff-paste all round the rim. Serve up the pudding -cool, having sifted sugar over it. - -_Boiled Almond Pudding_--Is made as above; only with whole eggs, both -yolks and whites beaten together. Boil it in a _bain-marie_ or in a -thick square cloth, in a pot of boiling water. When done, turn it out -and send it to table warm. Eat it with sugar, wet with rose-water. - -_Orange Pudding_--Is made exactly like lemon pudding; the ingredients -in the same proportion, and baked without an under crust, having a -border of puff-paste all round the edge, and sent to table in the dish -it was baked in. These fine-baked puddings should have no addition -whatever of bread-crumbs or flour. They should cut down smooth and -glassy. - -_Boiled Lemon or Orange Pudding_--Make the foregoing mixture either with -two lemons or two oranges, adding to the other ingredients a half pint -finely-crumbled sponge cake. Boil the mixture either in a _bain-marie_ -or a thick pudding cloth, and serve it up warm. For sauce, have ready -butter and sugar beaten to a cream, and flavored well with lemon or -orange, and grated nutmeg. - - -COCOA-NUT PUDDING.--Break up a ripe cocoa-nut. Having peeled off the -brown skin, wash all the pieces of nut in cold water, and wipe them dry -on a clean napkin. Then grate the cocoa-nut _very fine_ into a pan, till -you have a quart. In a deep pan cut up a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, and add a very light quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. -Stir together (with a spaddle,) the butter and sugar till they are very -light and creamy, and add a grated nutmeg. Beat, (till they stand alone) -the _whites only_ of six eggs; the yolks may be reserved for soft -custards. Stir the beaten white of egg gradually into the pan of butter -and sugar, alternately with the grated cocoa-nut, a little at a time of -each, and a glass of mixed brandy and white wine. Stir the whole very -hard. Fill with it a broad-edged deep white dish, and lay a puff-paste -border all round the rim. Bake it light brown, and when cool sift white -sugar over it, serving it up in the dish it was baked in. - -_Boiled Cocoa-nut Pudding._--For this make the above mixture, and boil -it in a mould, or in a _bain-marie_, with the water in the outside -kettle. Eat it either warm or cold. - - -SWEET POTATO PUDDING.--Wash, boil, and peel some fine sweet potatos. -Mash them, and rub them through a coarse sieve--this will make them -loose and light. If merely _mashed_ the pudding will clod and be heavy. -In a deep pan stir to a cream a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and -a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; adding a grated nutmeg, a -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a half glass of white wine, and a -half glass of brandy. Beat in a shallow pan three eggs, till very thick -and smooth, and stir them into the mixture of butter and sugar, -alternately with the sweet potato. At the last mix all thoroughly with a -very hard stirring. Put the mixture into a deep dish, and lay a border -of puff-paste all round the rim. Set the pudding immediately into a -rather brisk oven, and when cool sift white sugar over it. For two of -these puddings _double_ the quantities of all the ingredients. - -_White Potato Pudding_--Is made exactly as above. Chestnut pudding -also--the large Spanish chestnuts, boiled, peeled, and mashed. - -_Fine Pumpkin Pudding_--Also, allowing to the above ingredients a half -pint of stewed pumpkins, squeezed dry and rubbed through a sieve. - -_Cashaw Pudding._--A similar pudding may be made of stewed cashaw, or -winter squash. - - -PINE-APPLE TART.--Take a fine large ripe pine-apple. Remove the leaves, -and quarter it without paring, standing up each quarter in a deep plate, -and grating it down till you come to the rind. Strew plenty of powdered -sugar over the grated fruit. Cover it, and let it rest for an hour. Then -put it into a porcelain kettle, and steam it in its own syrup till -perfectly soft. Have ready some empty shells of puff-paste, baked either -in patty-pans or in soup plates. When they are cool, fill them full with -the grated pine-apple; add more sugar, and lay round the rim a border of -puff-paste. - - -QUINCE PIES.--Wash well, pare, and core some fine ripe quinces, having -cut out all the blemishes. Put the cores and parings into a small -sauce-pan, and stew them in a little water, till all broken to pieces. -Then strain and save the quince water. Having quartered the quinces, or -sliced them in round slices, transfer them to a porcelain stew-pan, and -pour over the quinces water extracted from boiling the cores and -parings. Let them cook in this till quite soft all through. Make them -very sweet with powdered sugar, and fill with them two deep soup plates -that have been baked empty, with a puff paste border round the rims. -Fill them up to the top, (they are already cooked) and sift sugar over -them--or, you may pile on the surface of each some ice-cream. You may -cook the quinces whole, and lay one on each tart. - - -FINE APPLE PIES--May be made in the same manner, flavored with the -grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon. The apples should be fine juicy -pippins. If done whole, lay one on each patty-pan tart, and stick into -the core hole a slip of the yellow rind of lemon, pared so thin as to be -nearly transparent. - - -A MERINGUE PUDDING.--Rub off upon a large lump of _sugar_ the yellow -rind of two fine ripe lemons, and mix it with a pound of powdered loaf -sugar, adding the juice. Whip, to a stiff froth, the _whites only_ of -eight eggs; and then, gradually, beat in the sugar and lemon, adding a -heaped table-spoonful of the finest flour. Spread part of the mixture -thickly over the bottom of a deep dish, the rim of which has been -bordered with a handsome wreath of puff-paste, and baked. Lay upon it a -thick layer of stiff currant or strawberry jelly. Then fill up the -dish, and set it, a few minutes in a rather cool oven to brown slightly. -This pudding is for dinner company. If you use oranges, omit half the -grated peel. - -You may flavor the meringue with vanilla. Split, and break up a small -vanilla bean, and boil it in a _very little_ cream till all the vanilla -flavor is extracted, the cream tasting of it strongly. Then strain it -well, and mix the vanilla cream with the white of egg. Or, a little -_home-made_ extract of vanilla will be still better. This is obtained by -splitting and breaking up some vanilla beans, and steeping them for a -week or two in a bottle of _absolute_ alcohol; then straining the -liquid, transferring it to a clean bottle, and keeping it closely -corked. Very little of what is called "Extract of Vanilla" is good, and -it is more expensive than to make it yourself. Also, what is generally -sold for essence of lemon is very inferior to real lemon juice. - - -JELLY OR MARMALADE PUDDING.--Divide the paste equally and line two -puff-paste shells. Bake them empty; and while baking, beat till very -light and thick, the yolks of six eggs. Mix the beaten egg with a -liberal portion of any nice kind of fruit, jelly or marmalade, and boil -it ten minutes in a sauce-pan, stirring it well. Take it up and set it -away to cool. When cold, fill with it the baked shells. Fill them up to -the top with the mixture, and before they go to table sift powdered -white sugar over the surface of the puddings. - - -CHEESE PUDDING.--Take a quarter of a pound of excellent cheese; rich, -but not strong or old. Cut it in small bits, and then beat it (a little -at a time) in a marble mortar. Add a quarter of a pound of the best -fresh butter. Cut it up, and pound it in the mortar with the cheese, -till perfectly smooth and well mixed. Beat five eggs till very thick and -smooth. Mix them, gradually, with the cheese and butter. Put the mixture -into a deep dish with a rim. Have ready some puff-paste, and lay a broad -border of it all round the edge, ornamenting it handsomely. Set it -immediately into a moderate oven, and bake it till the paste is browned, -and has risen very high all round the edge of the dish. Sift white sugar -over it before it goes to table. - -It is intended that the cheese taste shall predominate. But, if -preferred, you may make the mixture very sweet by adding powdered sugar; -it may be seasoned with nutmeg and mace. Either way is good. - -It may be baked in small patty-pans, lined at the bottom and sides with -puff-paste. Remove them from the tins as soon as they come out of the -oven, and place them on a large dish. - -This pudding is very nice made of rich fresh cream cheese; the rind, of -course, being pared off. Cream cheese pudding will require sugar and -spice--that is, a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg, mace, and -cinnamon, all mixed; two ounces of fresh butter, and six eggs. - - -FLORENDINES.--These are made of any sort of fruit, stewed in its own -juice or in sweetmeat syrup, but when practicable, without any water. A -pint of this fruit is mixed with half a pint of fresh butter, and half a -pint of powdered sugar stirred together to a light cream, and then mixed -with three well-beaten eggs, and the fruit stirred in alternately with -the beaten butter and sugar. Have ready baked shells of puff-paste, -ready to be filled with the mixture. The fruit may be apples, quinces, -peaches, gooseberries, currants, raspberries. Cranberries, gooseberries, -and currants, require additional sugar, as they are naturally very sour. -If you use plums or cherries for any sort of cooking, stone them first. - - -PEACH PIES.--Take a sufficient number of fine juicy freestone peaches. -Clingstones are very hard and insipid when raw, and still more tasteless -when cooked. Peel the peaches and quarter them, having removed the -stones. Stew them in their own juice, and while hot make them very sweet -with white sugar. When you put them to stew, place among them a bunch of -fresh green peach leaves, to be removed when the peaches are done. Or, -cook with them some peach kernels, blanched in hot water, to be picked -out when the stewing is finished. Peach leaves or kernels communicate a -flavor which to most persons is pleasant. Have ready some puff-paste -shells; baked, and beginning to cool. Fill them to the top with the -stewed peaches, and pile on them some whipped cream sweetened, and -flavored with noyau or rose-water. - - -A FRUIT CHARLOTTE.--Have ready a large fresh almond sponge cake, or lady -cake. Cut a round or circular piece to fit the bottom of a great glass -bowl. Also, about twelve or fourteen oblong slices, to stand up all -round to line the sides. Have ready two quarts or more of ripe -strawberries or raspberries. Mash the fruit to a jam, and having made it -very sweet with white sugar, spread it thickly over the pieces of cake. -Lay the circular piece of cake in the bottom of the bowl and stand up -the others all round the sides, all close to each other or wrapping over -a little. Proceed to fill the bowl with the fruit; and when half way up, -put on another layer of sliced cake spread with fruit. Then fill up with -fruit to the top. Have ready a quart of whipped cream flavored with -vanilla or bitter almonds. Heap it high on the bowl, and set it in a -cool place till it goes to table. This is a very fine article for a nice -dessert, and can be prepared at a short notice, and without going down -stairs, as it requires no cooking. - -For the whipped cream, you may pile the bowl with any sort of white -ice-cream ready made, and if there is no fresh fruit in season, -substitute marmalade or fruit jelly. - -If you have no large bowl you may serve up this charlotte in glass or -china saucers, laying in the bottom of each a circular slice of cake -spread over with ripe fruit or marmalade. Fill up with the same, and -finish with whipped cream, or ice-cream heaped on the top. - - -VANILLA CUSTARDS.--Split a vanilla bean, break it into small bits, and -boil it in a half pint of milk, till all the flavor of the vanilla is -extracted. Strain it through a very fine strainer, cover it, and set it -aside. Boil a quart of rich milk, and when it comes to a boil set it -away to cool. Beat eight eggs till very thick and smooth, (and when the -milk is cold) add that which is flavored with vanilla, and stir it in -gradually with a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. Divide the -mixture in custard cups, (filling them to the top) and set them into an -iron bake-pan filled with boiling water, reaching nearly to the the rim -of the cups. Put them into a moderate oven, and bake them a pale brown. -When cool, grate nutmeg, or lay a maccaroon on the top over each. Never -send custards warm to table. If well made, and baked not too much, there -will be no whey at the bottom of the cups, and the custards will be -smooth and firm all through, and have no spongy holes in them. - -To make soft custards, omit the whites of all the eggs, and have a -double quantity of yolks. The whites may be used for almond or cocoa-nut -pudding, for lady cake, for meringue or icing, and for kisses or -maccaroons. - -_Orange Custards._--Prepare four large ripe oranges, by rolling them -under your hand on a table to increase the juice. Use none of the peel -for these custards, but reserve it for something else. Beat in a shallow -pan twelve eggs till thick and smooth. Mix the orange juice with a -wineglass of cold water, and stir it gradually into the beaten egg, with -a small tumblerful of powdered sugar. There is no milk in these -custards. Divide them into custard cups, and beat them ten minutes. When -cold, grate nutmeg over them. - -_Lemon Custard_--Is made in the above manner, with the juice of four -large lemons, (omitting the rind) a small wineglass of cold water, -twelve beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. Any of -these fine custards may be boiled in a _bain-marie_, with water in the -outside kettle, and there is no way better. When boiled and cool, grate -in some nutmeg, and serve up the custard in a glass or china pitcher, -with saucers of the same to eat it from, or divide it in small glass -cups with handles to them. - -Lemon or orange custards are very fine. They are made without milk. - -_Chocolate Custard._--Make some strong chocolate, allowing a quarter of -a pound of the best, (which is Baker's prepared cocoa) to a quart of -rich milk; first mixing the milk and scraped chocolate to a smooth -paste. Boil them together a quarter of an hour. While warm, stir in two -or three table-spoonfuls of loaf sugar. Then set it away to cool. Have -ready eight well-beaten eggs, and stir them gradually into the -chocolate. Bake the mixture in cups, and serve them up with a chocolate -maccaroon laid on the top of each. - -_Almond and Maccaroon Custard._--Boil in half a pint of rich milk a -handful of _bitter_ almonds, blanched and broken up. When highly -flavored, strain that milk and set it aside. Boil a quart of milk by -itself, and when cold stir in, gradually, eight well beaten eggs, adding -the flavored milk, and half a pint of powdered sugar. Stir the whole -very hard at the last. Bake it in cups, and when done and cold, lay on -the top of each a maccaroon with four others placed around it; five -maccaroons to each custard. Or, if the maccaroons are made in the house, -let every one be large enough to cover the top of the custard like a -lid. - - -FINE PLUM PUDDING.--This pudding is best when prepared, (all but the -milk and eggs,) the day before it is wanted. Seed and cut in half one -pound of the best bloom raisins; and pick, wash, and dry before the -fire, a pound of Zante currants, (commonly called plums.) Dredge the -fruit well with flour, to prevent its sinking or clogging. Take one -pound of fresh beef suet, freed from the skin and strings, and chopped -_very fine_; a pint of grated bread-crumbs, and half a pint of sifted -flour; a large quarter of a pound of the best sugar, a large -table-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed, and two powdered -nutmegs--all the spice steeped in a half pint of mixed wine and brandy. -Put away these ingredients separately, closely covered, and let them -stand undisturbed all night. Next morning proceed to finish the pudding, -which requires at least six hours boiling. Beat nine eggs till very -thick and smooth, then add gradually a pint of rich milk, in turn with -the bread-crumbs and flour. Mix with the sugar the grated yellow rind -and juice of two large lemons or two oranges, and add gradually to the -mixture all the ingredients, stirring very hard. If you find it too -thick, add by degrees some more milk; if too thin, some more -bread-crumbs. But take care not to have too much bread or flour, or the -pudding will be solid and heavy. Dip a large strong cloth in boiling -water; shake it out, and spread it in a large pan. Dredge it lightly -with flour, and pour in the mixture. Tie it tightly, but leave -sufficient space for the pudding to swell in boiling. Put it into a pot -of fast-boiling water, and boil it steadily six hours or more, not -taking it up till wanted for table. Before turning it, dip the cloth for -a moment in cold water to make the pudding come out easily. Have ready -some slips of citron or of blanched sweet almonds, or both, and stick -them, liberally, all over the surface of the pudding after you have -dished it. Serve it up with wine sauce highly flavored, or with butter -and sugar beaten to a cream, and seasoned with nutmeg and rose. Do not -set the pudding on fire to burn out the liquor; that practice has had -its day, and is over. It was always foolish. - -If you wish to send it to a distant place, (for instance, to some part -of the world where plum puddings are not known or not made) you may -preserve it, (after boiling it well,) by leaving it tied up in the cloth -it was cooked in; hanging it up in a cool dry place, and then packing it -well in a tin vessel having a close fitting cover. Paste a band of thick -white paper all around the place where the lid shuts down, and put into -a tight box the vessel that contains the pudding. When it arrives at its -destination, the friend who receives it will pare off thinly the -outside, and tying up the pudding in a fresh clean cloth, will boil it -over again for an hour or more; and when done the surface may be then -decorated with slips of citron or almond. It has been said that in this -way a plum pudding can be kept for _six_ months, as good as ever. It -cannot. But it may keep six _weeks_. Do not _fry_ or _broil_ plum -pudding that is left at dinner. The slices will be greasy and heavy. But -tie the piece that remains in a small cloth, and _boil_ it over again -for an hour. It will then be nearly as good as on the first day. Believe -in no wonders that you hear, of the long keeping of either plum pudding, -plum cake, or mince meat, which are all of the same family. However long -they may be preserved from absolute decomposition, these things are -always best when fresh. - - -MINCE PIES.--The best mince meat is made of fresh beef's tongue boiled, -peeled, and when quite cold, chopped very fine. The next best is of -beef's heart boiled and chopped. The next of cold roast beef. And the -next, of the lean of cold boiled beef, quite fresh, and cooked -especially for the purpose. All the meat must be fresh, and not minced -till entirely cold. To two large pounds of lean meat allow two small -pounds of nice kidney suet, cleared from skin and strings, and chopped -very small; two pounds of fine juicy apples, pared, cored, and minced; -two pounds of Zante currants, washed, and picked clean; two pounds of -fine bloom raisins, seeded and chopped, or of seedless sultana raisins -cut in half; two pounds of the best sugar; two large nutmegs, powdered; -a table-spoonful of ground cinnamon; the same quantity of ground ginger, -with the juice and grated yellow rind of six large lemons, or the juice -of six oranges, and their grated rind; a pint of Madeira or sherry, and -half a pint of brandy; lastly, half a pound of citron cut into slips, -rather large. If the citron is chopped small it cannot be distinguished -among the other ingredients, and its flavor is lost. When all is -prepared, mix well in a large pan the chopped meat, suet, and fruit. -Then, gradually add the spice, having steeped it in the liquor all the -preceding night, mixing the whole thoroughly, and putting in the citron -at the last. Line with fine puff-paste deep pie-dishes, or patty-pans. -Fill them, quite full of the mince, heaping it higher towards the -centre; and put on a lid, handsomely decorated with puff-paste -ornaments, and having a cross slit in the centre surrounded with paste -leaves or flowers. Set the pies immediately into a moderately brisk -oven, and bake them a light brown. Eat them warm. If baked the preceding -day, heat them again before they go to table. The foolish custom of -setting the pies on fire after they come to table, and causing a blue -blaze to issue from the liquor that is in them, is now obsolete, and -considered ungenteel and tavern-like. If this practice originated in a -polite desire to _frighten the ladies_, its purpose is already a -failure, for the ladies are not frightened; that is, not really. - -Mincemeat will taste more fresh and pleasant if the apples are not added -till the day the pies are made. It should be kept well-secured from air -and damp, in stone jars closely covered. Whenever a jar is opened to -take out some for immediate use, pour in a large glass or two of brandy, -and stir it about. It is not true that mincemeat will keep all winter, -even by this preservative. It is sure to become musty (or worse,) before -two months. It is best to make fresh mincemeat at least three times -during the season. When the cold weather is over, do not attempt it, -unless a little for immediate use. - -Mincemeat, with a double portion of excellent raisins, (cut in half,) -will do very well without currants, which are very troublesome to -prepare; and those imported of late years are rarely of good quality. - -We have heard of West India mincemeat made with cold roast turkey; -chopped pine-apple; grated cocoa-nut; preserved ginger chopped, and -moistened with its own syrup; and seasoned with nutmeg and noyau. - -The above mince pies are for company. - - -CALF'S FEET JELLY.--Select the largest and best calf's feet. Four is -called a set. Choose those that, after the hair has been well scalded -and scraped off, are prepared with the skins left on. There is much -glutinous substance in the skin itself, therefore it adds to the -strength and firmness of the jelly. The feet being made perfectly clean, -split them upwards as far as you can, and put them to boil in a gallon -of _very clear_ soft water. Boil them till they have all gone to pieces, -and the flesh is reduced to rags, and the liquid to one half. Strain the -liquid through a fine sieve into a white-ware pan, and set it away to -cool. When quite cold, it should be a cake of firm jelly. Take it out, -and scrape from it all the fat at the top and sediment at the bottom. -Press on the surface, some clean blotting paper, to remove any grease -that may yet remain about it. Cut the cake of jelly into pieces, and put -it into a _very clean_ porcelain kettle, with a large pint of sherry, -(inferior wine will spoil it,) a pound of the best loaf sugar, broken -small; the yellow rind of six lemons, pared so thin as to be -transparent, and their juice squeezed over the sugar through a strainer; -the _whites_ of six or seven eggs, with their shells mashed small. If -the jelly is to be moulded, add a quarter ounce of the best Russia -isinglass. Boil together all these ingredients for near twenty minutes. -Then take it off the fire, and let it stand undisturbed for about five -minutes, to settle. Next, have ready a pointed jelly bag, made of clean -white flannel. Spread it open, suspended by strings to a table edge. Set -a large tureen or white-ware pan beneath it, and let the jelly drip as -long as it will; but on no account squeeze or press the bag, as that -will spoil all, rendering the whole jelly cloudy or streaked. If it is -not quite clear at the first straining, empty the contents of the bag -into a basin, wash the bag clean, hang it up again, pour the jelly back, -wash the tureen or pan, and let the jelly pass into it again. Repeat -this straining if necessary. When quite clear, shape the jelly in -white-ware moulds, which have been setting two hours in cold water. When -the jelly is wanted, wrap round the moulds for a moment, a cloth dipped -in warm water, and turn it out on glass dishes. The ingredients that are -left in the bag may be boiled and strained over again for children. If -the jelly is _not_ to be moulded, you may omit the isinglass. In that -case break it up, and serve it in a glass bowl. It is now the general -opinion that jellies have a more lively taste when broken up, from the -numerous acute angles they present to the tongue and palate. We think -this opinion correct; and also they look brighter and more glittering, -and _go farther_. - -_Apple Jelly_--Is far less expensive than that of calf's feet, and if -well made looks beautifully. It requires the very best and most juicy -apples, (for instance, two dozen large pippins or bell-flowers.) Wash -and wipe them well, (removing all blemishes,) pare, core, and slice or -quarter them. Put them into a _bain-marie_ or double kettle, with the -water outside, and let them boil till broken and dissolved, putting in -with them the grated yellow rind of four large lemons. Press and mash -the stewed apples through a very clean sieve, till you have extracted -all the juice. Measure it while warm, and allow to each quart a pound of -the finest powdered and sifted loaf sugar well mixed in, and the juice -of the lemons. Transfer it to a clean white flannel jelly bag, and let -it drip into a large white-ware pan. When quite clear, put it into -moulds, and set it on ice to congeal. When wanted, turn it out of the -moulds, (loosened by wrapping round their outsides cloths dipped a -minute in warm water) and serve it up in glass dishes. - -_Siberian Jelly._--A fine pink-colored jelly may be made in the above -manner, of the red Siberian crab-apple, but it requires an _additional_ -quarter of a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Instead of lemon you may -flavor it, (after all the juice has done dripping) by mixing with -extract of rose, or strong rose-water, allowing a wine-glassful to each -quart of jelly. Rose-water, or extract of rose, evaporates so speedily -when over the fire, that it should never be added till the very last. - -_Orange Jelly_--Is made in the proportion of a pint of strained orange -juice to a pound of loaf sugar, boiled with an ounce of isinglass, that -has first been melted over the fire by itself in a very little water. -Add the _yellow_ rind of the oranges pared from the white as thin as -possible. Give it one boil up, and strain it into the jelly-bag. When -clear, transfer it to moulds. Twelve large oranges will generally yield -a pint of juice. Lemon jelly is made in the same manner, but with more -sugar. - - -CURRANT JELLY.--The currants should be large, fine, and fully ripe. The -best and sweetest currants grow in the shade; and the largest, also. If -exposed to the full heat of our American sun, it turns them sour, dries -up the juice, and withers their growth. Gather them when fully ripe, -strip them from the stems into a cullender, and wash and drain them. -Transfer them to a large pan, and mash them well with a wooden beetle. -Then put the currants, with their juice, into a _bain-marie_ or double -kettle, and cook them with the water outside, stirring them hard to -bring out the juice. Simmer them for a quarter of an hour, and then -transfer them to a very clean sieve, and press them over a pan till no -more juice appears. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar. Mix the sugar with the juice, put all into a -porcelain kettle, and boil it till the scum ceases to rise. If the sugar -is of excellent quality, (the best double-refined should be used for all -nice sweetmeats) it will need but little skimming, and leave no sediment -when poured off. Boil it twenty minutes with the sugar. To try if it is -done, take up a spoonful and hold it out in the open air. If it congeals -very soon, it is cooked enough. Put it warm into glass tumblers. Cut out -some white tissue paper into double rounds, exactly fitting the glasses. -Press these papers lightly on the surface of the jelly; and, next day, -tie over the top thick papers dipped in brandy, and set them in the sun -all that day if the weather is bright and warm. - -All jellies of small fruit may be made in a similar manner; first -boiling the fruit by itself, and mashing it to get out all the juice. -Then boiling the berries again, _with the sugar_, for about twenty -minutes. The above receipt is equally good for grapes, blackberries, and -gooseberries. Black currant jelly (excellent for sore throats,) requires -but three quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice being very thick of -itself. Peaches, plums, damsons, and green gages, must be scalded, -peeled, and stoned, before boiling for jelly, and they require, at -least, a pound and a half of sugar to a pint of juice. It is better to -preserve them as marmalade than as jelly. Strawberries and raspberries -require no previous cooking; mash out the juice, strain it, allow a -pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and then boil them together -(skimming carefully) for about a quarter of an hour, or till they -congeal on being tried in the air. - - -WINE JELLY.--Wine jellies are seldom made except for company. The wine -must be of excellent quality; either port, madeira, or champagne. To a -quart of wine allow a pound of the best double-refined loaf sugar, and -an ounce of the best Russian isinglass. Melt the sugar (broken small) in -the wine. Melt the isinglass by itself in as much warm water as will -just cover it, and when quite dissolved, stir it into the mixed wine and -sugar. Boil all together, till on trial it becomes a firm jelly, which -will be very soon. If it does not congeal well, add some more dissolved -isinglass, and more sugar. Serve in moulds, and eat it on saucers. Jelly -is made in this manner of any nice sort of _liqueur_ or cordial. Also of -strong green tea, or very strong coffee; first made as usual, and then -boiled with loaf sugar and isinglass till they congeal. We do not -recommend them, except as some exhilaration to the fatigue of a party. - - -TRIFLE.--This is a very nice and very elegant party dish, and is served -in a large glass bowl. Put into the bottom of the bowl a pound of bitter -almond maccaroons. Pour on sufficient madeira or sherry to dissolve -them. Let them soak in it till soft and broken. Have ready a very rich -custard, flavored with vanilla bean (broken up and boiled by itself in a -little milk), and then strained into the quart of milk prepared for the -custard, which should be of ten eggs, (_using only the yolks_) and -sweetened with a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar. It is best -and easiest to _bake_ the custard. It will be very rich and soft with -yolk of egg only. When the custard is cold lay it on the dissolved -maccaroons. Then add a thick layer of very nice marmalade. Rub off the -yellow rind of a large lemon or two on some pieces of loaf sugar, and -add to it some powdered sugar mixed with the lemon juice. Whip to a -strong froth a large quart (or more) of rich cream, gradually mixing -with it the lemon and sugar. Lastly, pile up the frothed cream high on -the glass bowl, and keep it on ice till it is sent to table. Instead of -lemon you may flavor the whipt cream with rose-water; it will require, -if not very strong, a wine-glassful. To give the cream a fine pink -color, tie up some alkanet chips in a thin muslin bag; lay the bag to -infuse in a tea-cup of plain cream, and then add the pink infusion to -the quart of cream as you froth it. - - -BLANCMANGE.--The best and finest blancmange is made with a set of -calves' feet, (singed but not skinned) boiled slowly in a gallon of -water till the meat drops from the bone; then strain it, and set it away -till next day, in a broad white-ware pan. Skim it well while boiling. -Next day it should be a solid cake of clear jelly. Scrape off all the -fat and sediment from the outside, cut the jelly into small bits, and -melt it over again. Boil in a porcelain kettle a pint of cream, and -when it has come to a boil, stir in six ounces of loaf sugar, and -whatever you intend for flavoring; either the milk, in which a handful -of bitter almonds has been boiled, (first being blanched and broken up) -or a vanilla bean split and cut to pieces, and boiled in a little milk -and strained. Or, it may be mixed with three ounces of chocolate, -(Baker's prepared cocoa is the best) scraped fine. When the flavoring -has had a boil with the sugar, stir into it, gradually, the melted -jelly, and transfer it to white-ware moulds that have set in cold water, -and are still damp. Stir it well, and when the blancmange is thickening, -and becoming hard to stir, set the moulds on ice, or in pans of cold -water in the cellar, and cease stirring. When quite congealed, dip the -moulds in lukewarm water, and turn out the blancmange on glass dishes. -You may color almond or vanilla blancmange a fine pink, by putting into -the cream chips of alkanet root tied in a small thin muslin bag, to be -removed as soon as the cream is highly colored. Or, it may be made green -by the infusion of spinach juice, obtained by pounding in a marble -mortar, and then boiling and straining. - -Gelatine is now frequently used for blancmange and jelly, instead of -calves' feet or isinglass. It has no advantage but that of being more -speedily prepared than calves' feet, which must be boiled the day -before. Four cakes of gelatine are equal to four calves' feet. Before -using, they must be soaked for an hour or more in a pan of cold water, -then boiled with the other ingredients. Some persons think they -perceive an unpleasant taste in gelatine; perhaps they have heard of -what it is made. - -When calves' feet cannot be obtained, pigs' feet will do very well, if -nobody knows it. Four feet of calves are equal to eight of pigs. They -are very glutinous, and have no perceptible taste. - - -FINEST BLANCMANGE.--Break up a half pound of the best double-refined -loaf sugar. On some of the pieces rub off the yellow rind of two large -lemons, having rolled them under your hand to increase the juice. Then -powder all the sugar, and mix with it, gradually, the juice of the -lemons, a pint of rich cream, and a large half pint (not less) of sherry -or madeira. Stir the mixture very hard till all the articles are -thoroughly amalgamated. Then stir in, gradually, a _second_ pint of -cream. Put into a small sauce-pan an ounce of the best Russia isinglass, -with one jill (or two common-sized wineglasses) of cold water. Boil it -till the isinglass is completely dissolved, stirring it several times -down to the bottom. When the melted isinglass has become lukewarm, stir -it gradually into the mixture, and then give the whole a hard stirring. -Have ready some white-ware moulds that have just been dipped and rinsed -in cold water. Fill them with the mixture, set them on ice, and in two -or three hours the blancmange will be congealed. When it is perfectly -firm, dip the moulds for a minute in lukewarm water, and turn out the -blancmange on glass dishes. This, if accurately made, is the finest of -blancmange. For company, you must have double, or treble, or four times -the quantity of ingredients; each article in due proportion. - - -FARINA.--Farina is a very fine and delicate preparation, made from the -inner part of the grain of new wheat. It is exceedingly nutritious, and -excellent either for invalids or for persons in health. It is now much -in use, and is to be had, in packages of a pound or half a pound, of the -best grocers and druggists, and is highly recommended by physicians for -gruel and panade. It also makes an excellent pudding, either boiled or -baked, prepared in the same manner as any flour pudding. For boiling -farina, nothing is so good as a _bain-marie_ or double kettle. - -_For Farina Blancmange._--From a quart of rich milk take out a half -pint. Put the half pint into a small sauce-pan, and add to it a handful -of bitter almonds broken up; or a bunch of fresh peach leaves, or a -vanilla bean split, cut up, and tied in a thin muslin bag. When this -milk has boiled till very highly flavored, strain it into the pint and a -half, and set it over the fire in a porcelain kettle or a _bain-marie_. -When the milk has come to a boil, sprinkle in, gradually, a large half -pint or more (or four large heaping table-spoonfuls) of farina, stirring -it well--also sprinkling in and stirring, as if making thick mush. Let -it boil slowly a quarter of an hour after the farina is all in. When -done, remove it from the fire, and stir in two large table-spoonfuls of -sugar, and a wineglass of rose-water, or one of white wine. Transfer it -to a blancmange mould, (previously wet with cold water,) set it on ice, -and turn it out when ready for dinner. Eat it with sauce of wine, sugar, -and nutmeg. - - -FINE MARROW PUDDING.--Mince very small a quarter of a pound of nice beef -marrow, and grate or crumble half a pound of almond sponge cake. Cut in -half, a quarter of a pound of sultana or seedless raisins, chop two -peels of candied citron, mix them with the raisins, and dredge both -thickly with flour. Add a large heaped table-spoonful of loaf sugar, a -small nutmeg grated, and a wineglass of mixed wine and brandy. Mix all -these ingredients well, put them into a deep dish, lay a border of -puff-paste all round the rim, and fill the dish up to the top with a -nice custard made in the proportion of four eggs to a pint of -well-sweetened milk, flavored with either bitter almonds, rose-water, -peach-water, or vanilla. Bake this pudding half an hour. When cool, sift -sugar over it. - - -OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.--Break six eggs, separating the yolks and whites. Give -them a slight stir, and strain the whites into one pan and the yolks -into another. Add to the yolks three large table-spoonfuls of powdered -loaf sugar, a heaped tea-spoonful of arrow-root flour, and twelve drops -of strong orange-flower water, and beat it till very thick and smooth. -Then beat the whites to a stiff froth, beginning slowly at first, but -gradually beating faster. Then add the beaten yolk very gently to the -whites. Have ready a silver or plated dish well-buttered. Use tin for -want of better, but it will not look well, as the omelette has to be -served up in the dish it was baked in. Place the dish with the mixture -in a hot oven, and watch it while baking. When it has well risen, and -seems very light, take it out of the oven for a moment; run a knife -round it, sift some sugar over it, set it again in the oven, and when -raised to its utmost take it out again, and serve it up as hot as -possible, with a spoon on the plate beside it. When once broken, it will -sink immediately. It is usual to send round the omelette soufflé at the -very last of the pastry course; the cook not beginning to make it till -the dinner has commenced. If not light when baked, give it up, and do -not send it to table at all. It is safest for an inexperienced housewife -to engage a French cook to come to the house with his own ingredients -and utensils, and make and bake the omelette soufflé while there. Still -though very fashionable, it is less delicious than many other desserts. - - -SUNDERLANDS.--Warm a quart of rich milk, and cut up in it half a pound -of the best fresh butter to soften in the milk, but not to oil. Beat -eight eggs till very light and thick, and then stir them gradually into -the pan of milk and butter, in turn with eight large table-spoonfuls of -sifted flour. Beat all very hard together, and then transfer the batter -to white tea-cups, slightly buttered, not filling them quite full. Set -them immediately into a brisk oven, and bake them about twenty minutes, -or till they are slightly browned, and have puffed up very light. As -soon as they are cool enough to handle without burning your fingers, -turn them out of the cups on a dish, cut a slit in the top of each, and, -taking a tea-spoon, fill them quite full of any sort of jelly or -marmalade; or if more convenient, with ripe strawberries or raspberries, -sweetened with powdered sugar, and mashed smoothly. When filled with -fruit, close the slit neatly with your fingers; and on the top of each -lay a large strawberry or raspberry, having first dredged the sunderland -with sugar. - -_Cream Cakes_--Are made in the above manner, but baked in patty-pans. -When baked take them out, cut a slit in the _side_ of each; and having -prepared an ample quantity of rich boiled custard, made with yolk of -egg, and highly flavored (_after it has boiled_,) with lemon, orange, -vanilla, rose-water or peach-water, fill the cakes full of the custard, -closing the opening well by pinching it together. Sift powdered sugar -over them, and send them to table on a large china dish. - - -CREAM TART.--Make a fine puff-paste of equal quantities of fresh butter -and sifted flour; mixing into the pan of flour a heaped table-spoonful -of powdered sugar, and wetting it with a beaten egg. Rub one quarter of -the butter into the pan of flour. Divide the remainder of butter into -six, and roll it into the flour at six turns till it is all in. Have, -ready grated, the yellow rind and the juice of a large lemon or orange -mixed with a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar; or a flavoring -of a split-up vanilla bean; or a dozen bitter almonds broken up, and -boiled in a very little milk. Mix the flavoring with a pint of rich -cream, and the well-beaten whites of three eggs. Take small deep pans, -line them all through with the paste rolled out very thin, and cut -square. Fill them with the cream, and turn the square pieces of paste a -little over it at the top, so as to form corners. Bake the tarts in a -brisk oven, and when cold, grate nutmeg over the surface. - -Are these the cream tarts of the Arabian Nights? - - -ORANGE COCOA-NUT.--Break up a fine ripe cocoa-nut, and after peeling off -the brown skin, lay the pieces in cold water for a while. Then wipe them -dry with a clean towel, and grate them into a deep dish. Mix in, plenty -of powdered white sugar. Take some fine large oranges, very ripe and -juicy. Peel off all the rind, and slice the oranges rather thick. Cover -the bottom of a large glass bowl with sliced orange, (the first layer -being double, where the bowl is small) and strew among the slices -sufficient sugar. Then put in a thick layer of the grated cocoa-nut, -next another layer of orange--again a layer of cocoa-nut, and so on, -alternately, till the bowl is filled, finishing with cocoa-nut heaped -high. This is a handsome and delicious article for a supper-table, and a -nice _impromptu_ addition to the dessert at a dinner; and soon prepared, -as it requires no cooking. When the fruit is in season, a dessert for a -small company may consist entirely of orange cocoa-nut, raspberry -charlotte, and cream strawberries. - -Never send oranges whole to table. To ladies they are unmanageable in -company. - -_Creamed Strawberries._--Take fine large ripe strawberries. Hull or stem -them, and set them on ice till just before they are wanted. Divide them -into saucerfulls. If you have glass saucers, they will make a better -show than china. Put some powdered white sugar in the bottom of each -saucer. Fill them with strawberries, and then strew on a liberal -allowance of sugar, for American strawberries (however fine in -appearance) are seldom sweet. Have ready sufficient whipped cream, that -has been frothed with rods or with a tin cream-churn. Pile high a -portion of the whipt cream on each saucer of strawberries. - -Strawberries are sometimes eaten with wine and sugar, when cream is not -convenient. With _milk_ they curdle, and are unwholesome--besides -tasting poorly. - -_Creamed Pine-apple._--Cut into four pieces two large ripe pine-apples. -Stand them up successively in a deep dish, and grate them from the rind. -When all is grated, transfer it to a large glass bowl, and make it very -sweet by mixing in powdered white loaf sugar. Whip to a stiff froth a -sufficiency of rich cream, adding to it some sugar, and heap it high -upon the grated pine-apple. - -_Peaches and Cream._--Take fine juicy freestone peaches. Pare them, and -cut them in slices. Put them, with their juice, into a large bowl, and -make them very sweet with powdered loaf sugar. Set them on ice, and let -them remain in the juice till wanted. Then send them to table with fresh -sugar sifted over the top. Set near them pitchers of plain cream, not -frothed. - -If you cannot obtain cream, it is better to be satisfied with sugar -alone, than to substitute milk, with peaches, or any other fruit. - - -LEMON TAFFY.--Put into a porcelain-lined preserving kettle three pounds -of the best loaf sugar, and pour on it a pint and a half of very clear -water. When it has entirely dissolved, set it over the fire, and add a -table spoonful of fine cider vinegar to assist in clearing it as it -boils. Boil and skim it well, and when no more scum rises add the juice -of four large lemons or oranges. Let it boil till it will boil no -longer, stirring it well. When done transfer it to square tin pans, that -have been made very clean and bright, and that are slightly greased with -sweet oil. Set the taffy away to cool, first marking it with a knife, -while soft. Mark it in straight lines the broad or crossway of the pans. -If marked lengthways, the pieces will be too long. When the taffy is -cold, cut it according to the lines, in regular slips, like cocoa-nut -candy. It is for a handsome supper party. Serve it up in glass dishes. - -Orange taffy is made in the same manner. These candies should be kept in -tin boxes. - -_Cocoa-nut Candy_--Is made in the manner of taffy, using finely grated -cocoa-nut, instead of lemon or orange. - - -CHARLOTTE RUSSE.--Split, cut up, and boil a large vanilla bean in half a -pint of rich milk, till it is highly flavored, and reduced to one-half. -Then strain out the vanilla through a strainer so fine as to avoid all -the seeds. Mix the strained milk with half a pint of rich cream. Beat -five eggs till very smooth and thick. Strain them, and add them -gradually to the cream when it is entirely cold, to make a rich custard. -Set this custard over the fire (stirring it all the time) till it -simmers; but take it off before it comes to a boil, or it will curdle. -Set it on ice. Have ready in another sauce-pan an ounce of the best -Russia isinglass, boiled in half a pint of water, till it is all -dissolved into a thick jelly. When both are cold, (but not hard) mix the -custard and the isinglass together, and add four table-spoonfuls of -powdered loaf sugar. Then take a large lump of loaf sugar, and rub off -on it the yellow rind of two large lemons. Scrape off the lemon-grate -with a tea-spoon, and add it to the mixture, with the lump of sugar -powdered and crushed fine. Mix together the strained juice of the -lemons, and two glasses of madeira; dissolve in them the lemon-flavored -sugar, and mix it with a pint of rich cream that has been whipped with a -whisk to a strong froth. Add the whipped cream gradually to the custard, -starring very hard at the time, and also after the whole is mixed. Then -set it on ice. - -Cover the bottom of a flat oval dish with a slice of almond sponge cake, -cut to fit. Prepare a sufficient number of oblong slices of the cake, -(all of the same size and shape) to go all round; with one extra slice, -in case they should not quite hold out. Dip every one in a plate of -beaten white of egg to make them adhere. Stand each of them up on one -end, round the large oval slice that lies at the bottom. Make them -follow each other evenly and neatly, (every one lapping a little way -over its predecessor) till you have a handsome wall of slices, cemented -all round by the white of egg. Fill it quite full with the custard -mixture. Cover the top with another oval slice of cake, cemented with a -little white of egg to the upper edge of the wall. Make a nice icing in -the usual way, of powdered sugar beaten into frothed white of egg, and -flavored with lemon, orange, or rose. Spread this icing thickly and -smoothly over the cake that covers the top of the charlotte, and -ornament it with a handsome pattern of sugar flowers. There is no -charlotte russe superior to this. - -_Another Charlotte Russe._--Have a very nice circular lady cake. It -should be iced all over, and ornamented with sugar flowers. Take off the -top nicely, and without breaking or defacing, and hollow out the inside, -leaving the sides and bottom standing. The cake taken from the inside -may be cut in regular pieces and used at tea, or for other purposes. -Make a very fine boiled custard, according to the preceding receipt. -Fill with it the empty cake, as if filling a mould. Then put on the lid, -set the whole on ice, and when wanted serve it up on a glass or china -dish. - -A charlotte that requires no cooking may be very easily made by -hollowing a nice circular almond sponge cake, and filling it with layers -of small preserves, and piling on the top whipped cream finely flavored. - -For the walls of a charlotte russe you may use the oblong sponge cakes, -called Naples biscuits, or those denominated lady fingers, dipping them -first in beaten white of egg, standing them on end, and arranging them -so as to lap over each other in forming the wall. Arrange some of them -handsomely to cover the top of the custard. - - -ICE CREAM.--Pewter freezers for ice cream are better than those of block -tin; as in them the freezing goes on more gradually and thoroughly, and -it does not melt so soon, besides being smoother when done. The ice tub -should be large enough to allow ample space all round (six inches, at -least,) the freezer as it stands in the centre, and should have a plug -at the bottom (beneath the freezer) for letting out the water that drips -from the ice; that a large coarse woolen cloth should be folded, and -laid under it and around it. The ice should be broken up into small -bits, and mixed with coarse salt, in the proportion of a pound of salt -to five pounds of ice. Fill the tub within three inches of the top; -pounding and pressing down hard the mixed ice and salt. Have ready all -the ingredients. To every quart of _real_ rich cream mix in a pint of -milk, (not more) and half a pound of fine loaf sugar. The following are -the most usual flavorings, all the fruit being made very sweet. Ripe -strawberries or raspberries, mashed through a sieve till all the juice -is extracted; ripe juicy freestone peaches, pared, and cut in half, the -kernels being taken from the stones, are pounded, and mashed with the -fruit through a cullender; all the juice that can be mashed out of a -sliced pine-apple, the grated yellow rind and the juice of lemons or -oranges, allowing two to each quart of cream, and mixing the juice with -plenty of sugar before it is put to the cream. A handful of shelled -bitter almonds blanched, broken, and boiled by themselves in half a -pint of milk till all the almond flavor is extracted, and then strain -the bitter almond milk into the cream. For vanilla flavor, split and cut -up a vanilla bean, boil it by itself in a half pint of milk, and when -highly flavored, strain the vanilla milk into the cream. For chocolate -ice cream, scrape down a quarter of a pound of Baker's prepared cocoa, -and melt it in just water enough to cover it; then sweeten and mix it -gradually into a quart of rich milk, (boiling at the time) and then boil -and stir it till strong and smooth. Ice cream is spoiled by the addition -of eggs. Besides giving it a yellowish color, eggs convert it into mere -frozen custard, particularly if instead of using real cream, it is made -of milk thickened with arrow-root or flour. For company at least, ice -cream should be made in the best and most liberal manner, or else do not -attempt it. Mean ice cream is a very mean thing. - -When all the ingredients are prepared and mixed, put the whole into the -freezer, and set it in the ice tub; and having put on the lid tightly, -take the freezer by the handle and turn it about very fast for five or -six minutes. Then remove the lid carefully, and scrape down the cream -from the sides with a spaddle or long-handled spoon. Repeat this -frequently while it is freezing, taking care to keep the sides clear, -stirring it well to the bottom, and keeping the tub well filled with -salt and ice outside the freezer. - -After the cream has been well frozen in the freezer, transfer it to -moulds, pressing it in hard, so as to fill every part of the mould. -Then set the mould in a fresh tub of ice and salt, (using as before the -proportion of a pound of salt to five pounds of ice) and let it remain -undisturbed in the mould for an hour, not turning it out till it is time -to serve it up to the company. Then wrap a cloth, dipped in warm water, -round the outside of the moulds, open them, and turn out the frozen -cream on glass or china dishes, and serve it up immediately. - -Unless ice cream is very highly flavored at the beginning, its taste -will be much weakened in the process of freezing. - -The most usual form of ice cream moulds are pyramids, dolphins, doves, -and baskets of fruit. We have seen ice cream in the shape of a curly -lap-dog, and very well represented. - -If you eat what is called strawberry ice cream looking of an exquisite -rose-pink color, there is no strawberry about it, either in tint or -taste. It is produced by alkanet or cochineal. Real strawberries do not -color so beautifully; neither do raspberries, or any other sort of red -fruit. But genuine fruit syrups may be employed for this purpose, having -at least the true taste. To make strawberry or raspberry syrup, prepare -first what is called simple syrup, by melting a pound of the best -double-refined loaf sugar in half a pint of cold water; and when melted, -boiling them together, and skimming it perfectly clean. Then stir in as -much fruit juice (mashed and strained,) as will give it a fine tinge, -and let it have one more boiling up. - -_Vanilla Syrup._--Take six fine fresh vanilla beans. Split, and cut them -in pieces. Scrape the seeds loose in the pods with your finger nail, and -bruise and mash the shells. All this will increase the vanilla flavor. -Put all you can get of the vanilla into a small quart of what is called -by the druggist "absolute alcohol." Cork the bottle closely, and let the -vanilla infuse in it a week. Then strain it through a very fine strainer -that will not let out a single seed. Have ready half a dozen pint -bottles of simple syrup. Put into every bottle of the simple syrup a -portion of the strained infusion of vanilla. Cork it tightly and use it -for vanilla flavoring in ice creams, custards, blancmange, &c. - -_Orange or Lemon Syrups_--Are made by paring off the yellow rind very -thin (after the fruit has been rolled under your hand on a table to -increase the juice,) then boiling the rind till the water is highly -flavored. Strain this water over the best loaf sugar, allowing two -pounds of sugar to a pint of juice. The sugar being melted, mix it with -the juice. - - -WATER ICES OR SHERBET.--Water ices are made of the juice of fruits, very -well sweetened, mixed with a little water, and frozen in the manner of -ice cream, to which they are by many persons preferred. They are all -prepared nearly in the same manner, allowing a pint of juice to a pint -of water, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Mix it well, and then -freeze it in the manner of ice cream, and serve it up in glass bowls. -For lemon and orange sherbet, first roll the fruit on a table under your -hand; then take off a very thin paring of the yellow rind, and boil it -slowly in a very little water, till all the flavor is extracted. Next, -strain the flavored water into the cold water you intend to mix with the -juice, and make it very sweet with loaf sugar. Squeeze the juice into it -through a tin strainer to avoid the seeds. Stir the whole very hard, and -transfer it to a freezer. Orange water-ice is considered the best, if -well made. For pine-apple water-ice, pare, core, and slice fine _ripe_ -apples very thin. Put them into a dish with thick layers of powdered -loaf sugar; cover the dish, and let them lie several hours in the sugar. -Then press out all the juice you can, from the pine-apple; mix it with a -little water, and freeze it. To two large pine-apples allow a half pound -of sugar, which has been melted in a quart of boiling water. This looks -very well frozen in a mould shaped like a pine-apple. _Orange_ sherbet -may be frozen in a pine-apple mould. It can be made so rich with orange -juice as to perfume the whole table. - -_Roman Punch_--Is made of strong lemonade or orangeade, adding to every -quart a pint of brandy or rum. Then freeze it, and serve in saucers or a -large glass bowl. Put it into a porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it -till the scum ceases to rise. When cold, bottle it, seal the corks and -keep it in a cool place. - -Syrup of strawberries, raspberries, currants and blackberries, is made -in a similar manner. - - -FLOATING ISLAND.--For one common-sized floating island have a round -thick jelly cake, lady cake, or almond sponge cake, that will weigh a -pound and a half, or two pounds. Slice it downwards, almost to the -bottom, but do not take the slices apart. Stand up the cake in the -centre of a glass bowl or a deep dish. Have ready a pint and a half of -rich cream, make it very sweet with sugar, and color it a fine green -with a tea-cupful of the juice of pounded spinach, boiled five minutes -by itself; strained, and made very sweet. Or for coloring pink you may -use currant jelly, or the juice of preserved strawberries. Whip to a -stiff froth another pint and a half of sweetened cream, and flavor it -with a large glass of mixed wine and brandy. Pour round the cake, as it -stands in the dish or bowl, the colored unfrothed cream, and pile the -whipped white cream all over the cake, highest on the top. - - - - -FINE CAKES. - - -PLUM CAKE.--In making very fine plum cake first prepare the fruit and -spice, and sift the flour (which must be the very best superfine,) into -a large flat dish, and dry it before the fire. Use none but the very -best fresh butter; if of inferior quality, the butter will taste through -every thing, and spoil the cake. In fact, all the ingredients should be -excellent, and liberally allowed. Take the best bloom or muscatel -raisins, seeded and cut in half. Pick and wash the currants or plums -through two waters, and dry them well. Powder the spice, and let it -infuse over night in the wine and brandy. Cut the citron into slips, mix -it with the raisins and currants, and dredge all the fruit very thickly, -on both sides, with flour. This will prevent its sinking or clodding in -the cake, while baking. Eggs should always be beaten till the frothing -is over, and till they become thick and smooth, as thick as a good -boiled custard, and quite smooth on the surface. If you can obtain -hickory-rods as egg-beaters, there is nothing so good; but if you cannot -get _them_, use the common egg-beaters, of thin fine wire. For stirring -butter and sugar you should have a spaddle, which resembles a short -mush-stick flattened at one end. Stir the butter and sugar in a deep -earthen pan, and continue till it is light, thick, and creamy. Beat eggs -always in a broad shallow earthen pan, and with a short quick stroke, -keeping your right elbow close to your side, and moving only your wrist. -In this way you may beat for an hour without fatigue. But to stir butter -and sugar is the hardest part of cake making. Have this done by a man -servant. His strength will accomplish it in a short time--also, let him -give the final stirring to the cake. If the ingredients are prepared as -far as practicable on the preceding day, the cake may be in the oven by -ten or eleven o'clock in the forenoon. - -For a large plum cake allow one pound, (or a quart) of sifted flour; one -pound of fresh butter cut up in a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in a -deep pan; twelve eggs; two pounds of bloom raisins; two pounds of Zante -currants; half a pound of citron, either cut into slips or chopped -small; a table-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, mixed; two grated -nutmegs; a large wine-glass of madeira (or more), a wine-glass of French -brandy, mixed together, and the spice steeped in it. - -First stir the butter and sugar to a light cream, and add to them the -spice and liquor. Then beat the eggs in a shallow pan till very thick -and smooth, breaking them one at a time into a saucer to ascertain if -there is a bad one among them. One stale egg will spoil the whole cake. -When the eggs are very light, stir them gradually into the large pan of -butter and sugar in turn with the flour, that being the mixing pan. -Lastly, add the fruit and citron, a little at a time of each, and give -the whole a hard stirring. If the fruit is well floured it will not -sink, but it will be seen evenly dispersed all over the cake when baked. -Take a large straight-sided block tin pan, grease it inside with the -same butter used for the cake, and put the mixture carefully into it. -Set it immediately into a well-heated oven, and keep up a steady heat -while it is baking. When nearly done, the cake will shrink a little from -the sides of the pan; and on probing it to the bottom with a sprig from -a corn broom, or a splinter-skewer, the probe will come out clean. -Otherwise, keep the cake in the oven a little longer. If it cracks on -the top, it is a proof of its being very light. When quite done, take it -out. It will become hard if left to grow cold with the oven. Set it to -cool on an inverted sieve. - - -ICING.--Allow to the white of each egg a quarter of a pound of the best -loaf sugar, finely powdered; but if you find the mixture too thin, you -must add still more sugar. Put the white of egg into a shallow pan, and -beat it with small rods or a large silver fork, till it becomes a stiff -froth, and stands alone without falling. Then beat in the powdered -sugar, a tea-spoonful at a time. As you proceed, flavor it with lemon -juice. This will render the icing whiter and smoother, also improving -the taste. You may ice the cake as soon as it becomes lukewarm, without -waiting till it is quite cold. Dredge it lightly with flour to absorb -the grease from the outside; then wipe off the flour. With a broad knife -put some icing on the middle of the cake, and then spread it down, -thickly and evenly, all over the top and sides, smoothing it with -another knife dipped in cold water. When this is quite dry, spread on a -second coat of icing rather thinner than the first, and flavored with -rose. Set it a few minutes in the oven to harden the icing, leaving the -oven-door open; or place it beneath the stove. When the icing is quite -dry, you may ornament it with sugar borders and flowers; having ready, -for that purpose, some additional icing. By means of a syringe, (made -for the purpose, and to be obtained at the best furnishing stores) you -can decorate the surface of the cake very handsomely; but it requires -taste, skill, and practice. You may first cover the cake with pink, -brown, green, or other colored icing, and then take white icing to -decorate it, forming the pattern by moving your hand skilfully and -steadily over it, and pressing it out of the syringe as you go. An -easier way is to ornament the cake (when the top-icing is nearly dry, -but not quite,) with large strawberries or raspberries, or purple grapes -placed very near each other, and arranged in circles or patterns. Be -careful not to mash the berries. - -_Warm Icing._--This is made in the usual proportion of the whites of -four eggs, beaten to stiff froth, and a pound of finely powdered loaf -sugar afterwards added to it, gradually. Then boil the egg and sugar in -a porcelain kettle, and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. Take it -off the fire, and stir into it sufficient orange juice, lemon juice, or -rose-water, to flavor it highly. Flour your cake--wipe off the flour, -put on the icing with a broad knife, and then smooth it with another -knife dipped in cold water. For this icing the cake should be warm from -the oven, and dried slowly and gradually afterwards. Warm icing is much -liked. It is very light; rises thick and high in cooling, and has a fine -gloss. Try it. The mixture called by the French a _meringue_, and used -for macaroons, kisses, and other nice articles, is made in the same -manner as icing for cakes, allowing a quarter of a pound of powdered -loaf sugar to every beaten white of egg. - - -POUND CAKE.--One of Mrs. Goodfellow's maxims was, "up-weight of flour, -and down-weight of every thing else"--and she was right, as the -excellence of her cakes sufficiently proved, during the thirty years -that she taught her art in Philadelphia, with unexampled success. -Therefore, allow for a pound cake a rather small pound of sifted flour; -a large pound of the best fresh butter, a large pound of powdered loaf -sugar, ten eggs, or eleven if they are small; a large glass of mixed -wine and brandy; a glass of rose-water; a grated nutmeg, and a heaped -tea-spoonful of mixed spice, powdered mace, and cinnamon. Put the sugar -into a _deep_ earthen pan, and cut up the butter among it. In cold -weather place it near the fire a few minutes, till the butter softens. -Next, stir it very hard with a spaddle till the mixture becomes very -light. Next, stir in, gradually, the spice, liquor, &c. Then beat the -eggs in a shallow pan with rods or a whisk, till light, thick, and -smooth. Add them gradually to the beaten batter and sugar, in turn with -the flour; and give the whole a hard stirring at the last. Have the oven -ready with a moderate heat. Transfer the mixture to a thick -straight-sided tin pan well greased with the best fresh butter, and -smooth the butter on the surface. Set it immediately into the oven, and -bake it with a steady heat two hours and a half, or more. Probe it to -the bottom with a twig from a corn broom. When it shrinks a little from -the pan it is done. When taken out, set it to cool on an inverted sieve. -When you ice it, flavor the icing with lemon or rose. - -It should be eaten fresh, as it soon becomes very dry. - -Pound cake is not so much in use as formerly, particularly for weddings -and large parties; lady cake and plum cake being now substituted. A -pound cake may be much improved by the addition of a pound of citron, -sliced, chopped well, dredged with flour to prevent its sinking, and -stirred gradually into the batter, in turn with the sifted flour and -beaten egg. - - -QUEEN CAKE--Is made in the same manner as pound cake, only with a less -proportion of flour, (fourteen ounces, or two ounces less than a pound) -as it must be baked in little tins; and small cakes require less flour -than large ones. Also, (besides a somewhat larger allowance of spice, -liquor, &c.) add the juice and grated yellow rind of a lemon or two, and -half a pound of sultana or seedless raisins, cut in half and dredged -with flour. Butter your small cake tins, and fill to the edge with the -batter. They will not run over the edge if well made, and baked with a -proper fire, but they will rise high and fine in the centre. Ice them -when beginning to cool, flavoring the icing with lemon or rose. Queen -cakes made _exactly_ as above are superlative. - - -ORANGE CAKES.--Make a mixture precisely as for queen cake, only omit the -wine, brandy, and rose-water, and substitute the grated yellow rind and -the juice of four large ripe oranges, stirred into the batter in turn -with the egg and flour. Flavor the icing with orange juice. - - -LEMON CAKES--Are also made as above, substituting for the oranges the -grated rind and juice of three lemons. To give a full taste, less lemon -is required than orange. - - -SPONGE CAKE.--Many persons suppose that sponge cake must be very easy to -make, because there is no butter in it. On the contrary, the want of -butter renders it difficult to get light. A really good sponge cake is a -very different thing from those numerous tough leathery compositions -that go by that name, and being flavored with nothing, are not worthy of -eating _as cake_, and are neither palatable nor wholesome as diet, -unless too fresh to have grown dry and hard. The best sponge cake we -know of is made as follows, and even that should be eaten the day it is -baked. Sift half a pound of flour, (arrow-root is still better,) in a -shallow pan; beat twelve eggs till very thick, light, and smooth. You -need not separate the yolks and whites, if you know the true way of -adding the flour. Beat a pound of powdered loaf sugar, gradually, (a -little at a time) into the beaten eggs, and add the juice and grated -yellow rinds of two large lemons or oranges. Lastly stir in the flour or -arrow root. It is all important that this should be done slowly and -lightly, and without stirring down to the bottom of the pan. Hold the -egg-beater perpendicularly or quite upright in one hand, and move it -round on the surface of the beaten egg, while with the other hand you -lightly and gradually sprinkle in the flour till all is in. If stirred -in hard and fast it will render the cake porous and tough, and dry and -hard when cold. Have ready either a large turban mould, or some small -oblong or square tins. Butter them nicely, transfer to them the cake -mixture, grate powdered sugar profusely over the surface to give it a -gloss like a very thin crust, and set it immediately into a brisk oven. -The small oblong cakes are called Naples biscuits, and require no icing. -A large turban cake may be iced plain, without ornament. - -A _very light_ sponge cake, when sliced, will cut down rough and coarse -grained, and it is desirable to have it so. - -_Lady Fingers_--Are mixed in the same manner, and of the same -ingredients as the foregoing receipt for the best sponge cake. When the -mixture is finished, form the cakes by shaping the batter with a -tea-spoon, upon sheets of soft white paper slightly damped, forming them -like double ovals joined in the centre. Sift powdered sugar over them, -and bake them in a quick oven till slightly browned. When cool, take -them off the papers. They are sometimes iced. - - -ALMOND SPONGE CAKE.--The addition of almonds makes this cake very -superior to the usual sponge cake. Sift half a pound of fine flour or -arrow root. Blanch in scalding water two ounces of shelled sweet -almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones, renewing the hot water when -expedient. When the skins are all off, wash the almonds in cold water, -(mixing the sweet and bitter) and wipe them dry. Pound them to a fine -smooth paste, (one at a time,) in a very clean marble mortar, adding, as -you proceed, plenty of rose-water to prevent their oiling. Then set them -in a cool place. Beat twelve eggs till very smooth and thick, and then -beat into them, gradually, a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in turn with -the pounded almonds. Lastly, add the flour, stirring it round slowly and -lightly on the surface of the mixture, as in common sponge cake. Have -ready a _deep_ square pan. Butter it nicely. Put the mixture carefully -into it, set it into the oven, and bake it till thoroughly done and -risen very high. When cool, cover it with plain white icing, flavored -with rose-water. With sweet almonds, always use a small portion of -bitter ones. Without them, _sweet_ almonds have little or no taste, -though they add to the richness of the cake. - - -SPANISH BUNS.--In a shallow pan put a half pint of rich unskimmed milk, -and cut up in it a half pound of the best fresh butter. Set it on the -stove, or near the fire, to warm and soften, but do not let it melt or -oil. When soft, stir it all through the milk with a broad knife, and -then set it away to cool. Sift into a broad pan half a pound of the -finest flour, and an additional quarter of a pound put on a plate by -itself. Beat four eggs in a shallow pan till very thick and smooth, and -mix them at once into the butter and sugar, adding the half pound of -flour. Stir in a powdered nutmeg, and two wine-glasses of strong yeast, -fresh from the brewer's, first removing the thin liquid or beer from the -top. Stir the mixture very hard with a knife, and then add, -_gradually_, half a pound of powdered white sugar. The buns will become -heavy if the sugar is thrown in all at once. It is important that it -should be added a little at a time. Then sprinkle in, by degrees, the -extra quarter of a pound of sifted flour, and lastly add a wine-glass of -strong rose-water. When all has been well stirred, butter (with fine -fresh butter,) an oblong iron or block-tin pan, and carefully put the -bun mixture into it. Cover it with a clean cloth, and set it near the -fire to rise. It may require five hours; therefore buns wanted for tea -should be made in the forenoon. When the batter has risen very high, and -is covered with bubbles, put the pan immediately into a moderate but -steady oven, and bake it. When cool, cut the buns into squares, and ice -each one separately, if for company; the icing being flavored with lemon -or orange juice. Otherwise, you may simply sift sugar over them. These -buns were first introduced by Mrs. Goodfellow; and in her school were -always excellently made, nothing being spared that was good, and the use -of soda and other alkalis being unknown in the establishment--hartshorn -in cakes would have horrified her. - - -LADY CAKE.--This cake must be flavored highly with bitter almonds; -without them, sweet almonds have little or no taste, and are useless in -lady cake. Blanch, in scalding water, three small ounces of shelled -bitter almonds, and then lay them in a bowl of very cold water. -Afterwards wipe them dry, and pound them (one at a time,) to a smooth -paste in a clean marble mortar; adding, as you proceed, a wine-glass of -rose-water to improve the flavor, and prevent their oiling, and becoming -heavy and dark. When done, set them away in a cool place, on a saucer. -Almonds are always lighter and better when blanched and pounded the day -before. Cut up three quarters of a pound of the best fresh butter in a -pound of powdered loaf sugar. Mix it in a deep earthen pan, and stir and -beat it with a spaddle till it becomes very light and creamy. Then, -gradually, stir in the pounded almonds. Take the _whites only_ of -seventeen or eighteen fresh eggs, and beat them in a shallow pan to a -stiff froth, till they stand alone. Then stir the beaten white of egg, -gradually, into the pan of creamed butter and sugar, in turn with three -small quarters of a pound (or a pint and a half,) of sifted flour of the -very best quality. Stir the whole very hard at the last, and transfer it -to a straight-sided tin pan, well greased with excellent fresh butter. -Set the pan immediately into an oven, and bake it with a moderate but -steady heat. When it has been baking rather more than two hours, probe -it by sticking down to the bottom a twig from a corn broom, or a very -narrow knife. If it comes out clean the cake is done; if clammy or -daubed, keep it longer in the oven. A cake when quite done generally -shrinks a little. When you take it out, set it to cool on an inverted -sieve. Ice a lady cake entirely with white, and ornament it with white -flowers. It is now much in use at weddings, and if well made, and quite -fresh, there is no cake better liked. - - -CINNAMON CAKE.--Cut up half a pound of fine fresh butter, and warm it -till soft in half a pint of rich milk. Sift a pound of fine flour into a -broad pan; make a hole in the centre, and pour into it the milk and -butter, having stirred them well together. Then, gradually, add a large -quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a heaped tea-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon. Beat three eggs very smooth and thick, and stir them -in, also a wine-glass and a half of strong fresh brewer's yeast, or two -glasses of fresh baker's yeast. Then mix, (having sprinkled some over -the top,) all the flour into the hole in the centre, so as to make a -soft dough. When all is well mixed cover it, and set it to rise in a -round straight-sided tin pan. Place it near the fire, and when quite -light and cracked all over the surface, flour your pasteboard well, -place the loaf upon it, and having prepared in a pint bowl a stiff -mixture of ground cinnamon, fresh butter, and brown sugar, beaten -together so as to stand alone, make numerous deep cuts or incisions all -over the surface on the sides and top of the cake; fill them with the -cinnamon mixture, and pinch each together so as to keep the seasoning -from coming out. Glaze it all over with beaten white of egg a little -sweetened. Then return the loaf to the pan, and bake it in a moderate -oven till thoroughly done. When cool, cut it down in slices like a pound -cake. - -This dough may be divided into small round cakes, the size of a muffin, -and baked on tin or iron sheets, sifting sugar over them when cool. It -must have a high flavor of cinnamon. - - -WEST INDIA COCOA-NUT CAKE.--Cut up and peel some pieces of very ripe -cocoa-nut. Lay them for a while in cold water. Then take them out and -wipe them dry, and grate very fine as much as will weigh half a pound. -Beat eight eggs till very light, thick, and smooth. Have ready half a -pound of powdered loaf sugar, and stir it into the pan of beaten egg, -alternately with the grated cocoa-nut; adding a handful of sifted flour, -a powdered nutmeg, and a large glass of madeira or sherry, stirring the -whole very hard. Butter an oblong tin pan. Put in the mixture, set it -immediately into a quick oven, and bake it well. Set it to cool on an -inverted sieve; cut it into squares, and ice each square, flavoring the -icing with rose. - -You may bake it in a large loaf; adding double portions of all the -ingredients, and ornamenting the icing handsomely. - -_Sweet Potato Cake_--Is made like the above cocoa-nut cake. The sweet -potatos must be pared and grated _raw_, till you have as much as weighs -half a pound. Then proceed as above, and with the same ingredients and -proportions. You may boil and mash the sweet potatos; but be sure, -afterwards, to pass them through a coarse sieve, or they may chance to -clod and become heavy. If well made, and well flavored, this cake is -very nice. - - -GOLDEN CAKE.--The best time for making this cake is when ripe oranges -are plenty. For one cake select four large deep-colored oranges, and -roll each one under your hand upon a table to soften them, and increase -the juice. Weigh a pound of the best loaf sugar. On some of the largest -pieces rub off the yellow or outer rind of the oranges, omitting the -white entirely. The white or inner rind of oranges or lemons should -never be used for any thing. Cut the oranges, and squeeze their juice -through a strainer into a large saucer or a small deep plate. Powder all -the sugar, including that which has the orange zest upon it, and put it -into a deep earthen pan, with a pound of the best fresh butter cut up -among it. With a wooden spaddle stir the butter and sugar together, till -very light and creamy. In a shallow pan beat twelve eggs, omitting the -_whites_ of three. Sift into a dish a small quart of the best and finest -flour, and stir it gradually into the pan of butter and sugar and -orange, in turn with the beaten egg, a little at a time of each. Stir -the whole very hard; and when done, immediately transfer the batter to -square tin pans, greased with the same fresh butter that was used for -the cake. Many a fine cake has been spoiled, at last, by the poor -economy of greasing the pans with salt butter. Fill the pans to the top. -If the cake has been well made, and well beaten, there is no danger of -the batter running over the edges. Put it, immediately, into a quick -oven and bake it well, not allowing the heat to be lessened till the -cake is quite done. When cool, cut it into squares. If you ice it, -flavor the icing with orange juice. - -Do not attempt to make this cake with yolk of egg only, by way of -improving the yellow color. Without any whites, it will assuredly be -tough and heavy. Cakes may be made light with white of egg only, but -never with yellow of egg only. - -If you use soda, saleratus, hartshorn, or any of the alkalis, they will -entirely destroy the orange flavor, and communicate a bad taste of their -own. - - -SILVER CAKE.--Scald in a bowl of boiling water two ounces of shelled -bitter almonds. As you peel off the skins throw each almond into a bowl -of ice-cold water. When all are blanched, take them out, and wipe them -dry on a clean napkin. Put them, one at a time, into a very clean marble -mortar, and pound each one separately to a smooth paste, adding, as you -pound them, a few drops of strong rose-water, till you have used up a -large wine-glass full. As you remove the pounded almonds from the -water, lay them lightly and loosely on a plate. When all are done, put -them into a very cool place. In a deep earthen pan cut up a pound of -fresh butter into a pound of powdered sugar, and with a wooden spaddle -stir the butter and sugar together till perfectly light. Into another -pan sift three quarters of a pound of fine flour, and in a broad shallow -pan beat with small rods the whites only of eighteen eggs till they are -stiff enough to stand alone. Then, gradually, and alternately, stir into -the pan of beaten butter and sugar the flour, the beaten white of eggs, -and the pounded almonds. Give the whole a hard stirring at the last. -Transfer it to square tin pans greased with the same butter, and bake it -well. When cool, cut it into square cakes, and send it to table on china -plates, piled alternately with pieces of golden cake, handsomely -arranged. If you ice silver cake, flavor the icing with strong -rose-water. - -These cakes, (gold or silver) if made as above, will be found delicious. -The yolk of egg left from the silver cake may be used for soft custards. -But yolk of egg alone, will not raise a cake; though white of egg will. - - -APEES.--Cut up a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of sifted flour, -and rubbing the butter very fine, and mixing in a pound of powdered -sugar, with a heaped tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace, and -cinnamon, and four tea-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Moisten the whole -with a large glass of white wine; and barely sufficient cold water to -make a stiff dough. Mix it well with a broad knife, and roll it out into -a sheet less than half an inch thick; then with the edge of a tumbler, -or a tin cake-cutter, divide it into round small cakes. Bake them in -oblong pans, (tin or iron) slightly buttered; and do not place them so -closely as to touch. Bake them in a quick oven, till they are of a pale -brown. These cakes are soon prepared, requiring neither eggs nor yeast. - - -MARMALADE MERINGUES.--Make a mixture as for apees, omitting only the -carraway seeds. Roll out the sheet of dough quite thin; cut it into -round flat cakes with the edge of a tumbler, and bake them a few -minutes, till lightly colored. Take them out of the oven and spread them -thickly with very nice marmalade, or with ripe strawberries or -raspberries, sweetened, and mashed without cooking. Have ready a stiff -meringue of beaten white of egg and sugar. Pile it high over the -marmalade on each cake. Heap it on with a spoon, so as quite to conceal -the marmalade, and do not smooth it on the top. It should stand up -_uneven_ as the spoon left it. Set it again in the oven for a minute or -two, to harden it. - - -JUMBLES.--Mix together, all at once, in a deep pan, a pound of butter -cut up in a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of sifted flour, and six -eggs, previously beaten very light in a pan by themselves. Add a -table-spoonful of powdered spice, (mixed nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon) and -a glass of mixed wine and brandy; or else a glass of rose water; or the -juice and grated yellow rind of a large lemon. Stir the whole very hard -till all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, and become a soft dough. -Flour your hands and your pasteboard, and lay the dough upon it. Take -off equal portions from the lump, and with your hands form them into -round rolls, and make them into rings by joining together the two ends -of each. Place the jumbles (not so near as to touch,) in tin pans -slightly buttered, and bake them in a very brisk oven little more than -five or six minutes, or enough to color them a light brown. If the oven -is too cool, the jumbles will spread and run into each other. When cold, -sift sugar over them. _Jumbles_ may be made with yolks of eggs only, if -the whites are wanted for something else. - -_Cocoa-nut Jumbles_--Are made as above, only with finely grated -cocoa-nut instead of flour, and with white of egg instead of yolk. - -_Cocoa-nut Puffs._--Grate any quantity of cocoa-nut. Mix it with -powdered sugar and a little beaten white of egg, and lay it in small -heaps of equal size. On the top of each place a ripe strawberry, -raspberry, or any small preserved fruit, flattening a slight hollow, to -hold it without its rolling off. - - -SCOTCH CAKE.--Take a pound of fresh butter, a pound of powdered white -sugar, and two pounds of sifted flour. Mix the sugar with the flour, and -rub the butter into it, crumbled fine. Add a heaped table-spoonful of -mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. Put _no water_, but moisten it entirely with -butter. A small glass of brandy is an improvement. Roll it out into a -large thick sheet, and cut it into round cakes about the size of -saucers. Bake them on flat tins, slightly buttered. This cake is very -crumbly but very good, and of Scottish origin. It keeps well, and is -often sent from thence, packed in boxes. - - -JELLY CAKE.--For baking jelly cake you must have large flat tin pans -rather larger than a dinner plate. But a very clean soap-stone griddle -may be substituted, though more troublesome. Make a rich batter as for -pound cake, and bake it in single cakes, (in the manner of buckwheat, or -thicker) taking care to grease the tin or soap-stone with _excellent_ -fresh butter. Have ready, enough of fruit jelly or marmalade, to spread -a thick layer all over each cake when it cools. Pile one on another very -evenly, till you have four, five, or half a dozen; and ice the surface -of the whole. Cut it down in triangular pieces like a pie. Jelly cake -is no longer made of sponge cake, which is going out of use for all -purposes, as being too often dry, tough, and insipid, and frequently not -so good as plain bread. - - -ALMOND MACAROONS.--The day before they are wanted, prepare three -quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound -of shelled bitter almonds; by scalding, blanching, and pounding them to -a smooth paste in a marble mortar, (one or two at a time) adding, as you -proceed, rose-water to prevent their oiling, and becoming dark and -heavy. Having beaten to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, and -prepared a pound of powdered loaf sugar, beat the sugar into the egg a -spoonful at a time. Then mix in gradually the pounded almonds, and add a -grated nutmeg. Stir the whole very hard, and form the mixture into small -round balls. Then flatten slightly the surface of each. Butter slightly -some shallow tin pans. Place the macaroons not so close as to be in -danger of touching; and glaze them lightly with a little beaten white of -egg. Put them into a brisk oven, and bake them a light brown. - -Ground-nut macaroons are made in the same manner. - -_Chocolate Macaroons._--Scrape down, very fine, half a pound of Baker's -prepared cocoa. Beat to a stiff froth the white of four eggs, and beat -into the white of egg a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in turn with the -chocolate, adding a little sifted flour if the mixture appears too thin. -Grease the bottom of some oblong tin pans, very slightly, with sweet -oil. Having formed the mixture into small thick cakes, lay them (not -close,) in the pan, and bake them a few minutes. Sift sugar over them -while warm. - - -KISSES.--Having beaten to a stiff froth, till it stands alone, the -whites of eight eggs, mix with it, gradually, three quarters of a pound -of finely powdered loaf sugar, beating it in very hard, a spoonful at a -time, and as you proceed flavoring it with extract of vanilla, rose, or -lemon juice. If the meringue is not thoroughly beaten and very stiff, -the kisses will lose their shape and run in baking. Try one first, and -if that runs, beat a while longer before you bake the whole. Pile -portions of the meringue on sheets of letter paper, placing each heap -far apart. Smooth and shape them with a broad knife dipped in cold -water. Make them about the size and form of half eggs, with the flat -part downwards. Arrange them on a smooth hickory board, and set it in a -quick oven, (leaving the door open) and watch them well. A few minutes -will color them a pale brown, and that is all they require. Then take -them out, and set them to cool. When cool, slip a knife carefully under -each, and remove them from the paper. Then with your knife hollow the -meringue from the base of each kiss and scrape upwards toward the top, -being careful not to break through the outside or crust. Fill up this -vacancy with any sort of stiff jelly. Then clap two halves together, and -unite them at the base, by moistening the edges with a little of the -meringue that was left. Handle them very carefully throughout. - -Large kisses, of twice or thrice the usual size, are introduced at -parties, filled with ice cream, or flavored calf's foot jelly. - -It is very customary now to finish a fine charlotte russe with a thick -layer of this jelly at the top. - - -LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.--Cut up in a deep pan half a pound of the best -fresh butter, with a half pound of excellent brown sugar; and stir it to -cream with a spaddle. Add a pint of West India molasses, mixed with half -a pint of warm milk; four table-spoonfuls of ginger; a heaped -table-spoonful of mixed powdered cinnamon and powdered mace and nutmeg; -and a glass of brandy. Sift in a pound and a half of fine flour. Beat -six eggs till very light and thick, and mix them, alternately, into the -pan of butter, sugar, molasses, &c. At the last, mix in the yellow rind -(grated fine) of two large oranges and the juice. Stir the whole very -hard. Melt in one cup a very small level tea-spoonful of soda, and in -another a small level salt-spoon of tartaric acid. Dissolve them both in -lukewarm water, and see that both are quite melted. First stir the soda -into the mixture, and then put in the tartaric acid. On no account -exceed the quantity of the two alkalis, as if too much is used, they -will destroy entirely the flavoring, and communicate a very disagreeable -taste instead. Few cakes are the better for any of the alkaline powders, -and many sorts are entirely spoiled by them. Even in gingerbread they -should be used very sparingly, rather less than more of the prescribed -quantity. Having buttered, (with the same butter) a large round or -oblong pan, put in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven till -thoroughly done, keeping up a steady heat, but watching that it does not -burn. There is no gingerbread superior to this, if well made. Instead of -lemon or orange, cut in half a pound of seedless raisins, dredge them -well with flour, and stir them, gradually, into the mixture. - -This is also called Franklin gingerbread. - - -GINGER NUTS.--Cut a pound of the best fresh butter into two pounds or -two quarts of sifted flour, and half a pound of fine brown sugar. Add -four heaped table-spoonfuls of ground ginger; a heaped table-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon, and the same quantity of mixed nutmeg and mace. Mix -all the ingredients thoroughly together; adding, gradually, a large pint -of West India molasses, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon -or orange. Stir it very hard with a spaddle. Flour your hands, break -off pieces of the dough, and knead each piece a little; then flatten -them on the top. Make them the size of a quarter dollar. Or, (flouring -your pasteboard) roll out the dough, and cut out the ginger-nuts with -the edge of a small wine-glass. Bake them on buttered tins, having first -glazed them with a thin mixture of molasses and water. The same dough -may be baked in long straight sticks, divided by lines deeply marked -with a knife. - -There are many other gingerbreads; but any of the soft sorts may be made -with little variation from the foregoing directions for Lafayette -gingerbread; and of the hard sort of ginger-nut preparation, the above -is the basis of the rest. If the receipts are liberally and exactly -followed, it will be found that to those two none are superior. - - -PIGEON PIE.--For this pie take six fine fat tame pigeons, carefully -cleaned and picked. Lay them in cold water for an hour, changing the -water twice during that time. This is to remove what is called "the -taste of the nest." Have ready the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, -seasoned with powdered nutmeg. Place a bit of fresh butter rolled in -flour, in the inside of each pigeon, with its liver cut up, and with a -yolk of egg seasoned with powdered mace. Lay a nice tender beef steak, -or thin veal cutlet, in the bottom of a large deep dish, that has been -lined with puff-paste. Butter the steak, and dredge it with flour. -There must be meat enough to cover well the bottom of the pie dish. Lay -the pigeons upon it, with the breast downward, (their heads and feet cut -off, and their livers cut up, and put inside with the stuffing.) Fill up -the dish with water. Roll out and put on the lid of the pie, which you -may ornament with paste leaves or flowers, according to your taste. For -company, pigeon pies are expected to look handsome. It is no longer -fashionable to have the feet of the pigeons sticking out of the slit in -the top of the paste. - -Moorfowl, pheasants, partridges, or quails, may be made into pies in the -above manner. It is usual, for partridge pies, to peel two fine sweet -oranges; and having divided them into quarters, carefully remove the -strings and seeds, and put the oranges into the birds without any other -stuffing. Instead of beef steak or veal cutlet, lay a thin slice of cold -ham in the bottom of the pie-dish. - -This receipt, and the following, were accidentally omitted in their -proper places. - - -CHICKEN PIE.--Skin a pair of fine fowls, and cut them up. Save out the -necks, backs, feet, livers, and gizzards, and the ends of the pinions; -and seasoning them with a little pepper and salt add some trimmings or -spare bits of fresh beef or veal, and stew them in a small sauce-pan -with a little water, to make the gravy. Let them stew till all to rags, -and then strain off the liquid; and while hot, stir into it a beaten -egg and a bit of fresh butter, dredged with flour. In the mean time make -a nice puff-paste, and roll it out rather thick; divide it in two -circular sheets. Line with one sheet the bottom and sides of a deep pie -dish, and put in the best pieces of chicken. Lay among them four -hard-boiled eggs, sliced or quartered. Season well with powdered mace or -nutmeg. The gravy being strained, pour that into the pie, and finish at -the top with a layer of butter divided into small pieces, and dredge -with flour. This is what the old English cookery books mean when they -say--"Close the pie with a _lear_." - -A chicken pie will be improved by the addition of a dozen or more large -fresh oysters, stewed. If you add oysters, take off the lid or upper -crust as soon as the pie is baked, and put in the oysters _then_; if put -in at the beginning, they will bake too long. Replace the lid nicely, -and send the pie to table hot. - -The lid should have in the top a cross slit with a nice paste flower in -it. To make a paste flower roll out a straight narrow slip of paste, -about four or five inches wide. Roll it up with your fingers as if you -were rolling up a ribbon. Then with a sharp knife cut four clefts in the -upper half, and when baked, it will spread apart as like the leaves of a -flower. - - - - -SWEETMEATS. - - -No sweetmeats can either look well or taste well unless the fruit and -the sugar are of the best quality. As in all other branches of cookery, -it is false economy to provide bad or low-priced ingredients. It has of -late years been difficult to obtain _very_ good sugar at any price, so -much is adulterated with flour or ground starch. In the common powdered -sugar the flour is so palpable that we are surprised at its having any -sale at all; and the large quantity required to produce any perceptible -sweetness renders it totally unfit for sweetmeats, or indeed for any -thing else. The best brown sugar is better than this, having clarified -it with white of egg. To do this, allow to every pound of sugar the -beaten white of an egg, and a half pint of clear cold water. Having -poured the water on the sugar, let it stand to melt before it goes on -the fire. Then add the white of egg and put in on to boil. When it -boils, carefully take off the scum as it rises, and add when it is -boiling hard another jill or quarter pint of water for each pound of -sugar. Remove it from the fire when the scum ceases to rise, and let it -stand for a quarter of an hour to settle. Strain, and bottle it for use. -The best brown sugar _thus prepared_ will make a good syrup; and good -marmalade, when white sugar of the best quality is not to be obtained. -But for the nicest sweetmeats use always, if you can, the best -double-refined loaf. - -In warm weather there is nothing better for a preserving fire than a -portable charcoal furnace placed out in the open air; as in a room with -the doors or windows shut the vapor of charcoal is deadly, and never -fails to produce suffocation. Of whatever the fire is made, it should be -clear and steady without smoke or blaze. Never use copper or bell-metal -for either preserving or pickling. For all such purposes employ only -iron, lined with what is called porcelain or enamel, but is in reality a -thick strong white earthen, first made at Delft, in Holland. This lining -will crack if the kettle is placed over a blaze, which it should never -be. All sweetmeats should be boiled with the lid off. If covered, the -steam having no means of escaping, returns upon them, and causes them to -look dark and unsightly. When done, put the sweetmeats warm into jars or -glasses, and leave them open a few hours that the watery particles may -evaporate, but have them all pasted and closely covered before night. Do -nothing to render your preserves hard, or firm, as it is called. It is -better to have them soft and tender. The old custom of steeping them for -days in salt and water, and then boiling them in something else to -remove the salt, is now considered foolish, and is seldom practised. - -Put up jellies and small sweetmeats in common tumblers, laying on the -surface of each a double cover of white tissue paper cut exactly to fit, -and then put on another cover of thick white paper pleated and notched -where it descends below the edge, using always gum tragacanth paste, -which you should keep always in the house, as it requires no boiling; -and if in making it, a bit of corrosive sublimate (not larger than a -cherry-stone) is dissolved with the ounce of gum tragacanth and the half -pint of warm water, in a yellow or white-ware mug, and _stirred only -with a stick_, the paste will never spoil, and if kept covered, will be -found superior to all others. No metal must touch this cement, as it -will then turn black and spoil. - -Keep your sweetmeats always in a dry place. But if after a while you see -a coat of mould on the surface, you need not throw them away, till you -have tried to recover them by carefully removing every particle of -mould, filling up the jars with fresh sugar, and setting them, one by -one, in a bottle of water, and in this way boiling them over again. But -if they have an unpleasant smell, and you see insects about them, of -course they must be thrown away. To purify jars, clean and scrape them, -and wash them thoroughly with ley and water, or with a solution of -soda--afterwards exposing them to the sun and air for a week or more. - -_Jellies._--We have already given directions for various fruit jellies -in the chapter on Fine Desserts. They are all made nearly in the same -manner, using the juice of the fruit, and sufficient sugar to make it -congeal and to keep it. Jellies should always be bright and transparent, -and therefore require the best and ripest of fruit and the finest of -loaf sugar. - - -MARMALADE OR JAMS.--Marmalade or jams are the easiest sweetmeats to -make, and are useful for all sweetmeat purposes. They are all made -nearly in the same manner; and to be very good, and to keep well, at -least a pound of fine sugar should be allowed to every pound of -fruit--the fruit being quite ripe, freshly gathered, and of the best -kind. - -_For Peach Marmalade_--Take fine, juicy free-stone peaches. Pare them; -cut them in half; remove the stones, and let them be saved and the -kernels extracted to use as bitter almonds. Cut up the peaches, and -allow for each pound a pound of sugar. Lay the peaches (with all the -sugar among them,) in a large pan or tureen, and let them rest for three -or four hours. Boil the peaches and sugar together in a porcelain kettle -(without a cover) for half an hour, skimming and stirring well. When it -becomes a thick smooth mass it is finished. Put it up in glass jars, and -leave it uncovered till cool; but not longer. The flavor will be much -improved by boiling with the peaches and sugar one or two handfuls of -the kernels, blanched and pounded; or else a bunch of fresh peach -leaves, to be removed afterward. - -_Quince Marmalade_ is made in the same manner--first carefully removing -all the blemishes. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of quinces. They -must boil longer than peaches. All marmalades must be cooked till the -form of the fruit is quite indistinguishable, and till it mashes into a -thick smooth mass. Quinces should be allowed to remain on the trees till -after the first frost, which greatly improves them. Persimmons and wild -grapes are not eatable till they are touched by the frost. - -_Tomato Marmalade._--Make this when lemons are ripe and plenty. To every -two pounds of tomatos allow two pounds of sugar, and the grated yellow -rind and the juice of one lemon. The worst way of using lemons for any -purpose is to merely slice them. Depend on the slices for flavoring, and -they are wasted; the taste being scarcely perceptible. They should -always be first rolled under your hand, which increases the yield of -juice. Then grate off from the outside the _yellow_ rind only (the white -part of the rind is worse than useless,) and having cut the lemon, -squeeze the juice through a tin strainer to exclude the seeds, which -otherwise would be troublesome to pick out. The yellow rind and the -juice are all you need want of a lemon for any purpose of flavoring. -Scald the tomatos to make them peel easily, and mix the sugar thoroughly -with them. Boil them slowly for an hour in a porcelain kettle, skimming -carefully, and stirring well after each skimming. Then add the lemon -grate and the juice, and boil the marmalade another half hour, or till -it is a thick smooth mass. - -_Pumpkin Marmalade._--Take a fine ripe high-colored pumpkin. Cut it up. -Empty it very clean of the seeds and strings; take off a thick paring. -Slice the pieces small and thin, and weigh them. To each pound of -pumpkin allow a pound of powdered sugar, and the grated peel and the -juice of one large lemon. Pumpkin sweetmeats require a high lemon -flavoring. Boil the pumpkin alone, till quite soft. Then mash it in a -cullender till the water is pressed out, and the pumpkin left dry. -Afterwards put it into a porcelain kettle, mix with it the sugar and -lemon, and boil it again till it becomes a thick jam. Cantaloupe -marmalade is made in the same way with lemon and sugar--also marmalade -of ripe figs. - -_Plum Marmalade._--Choose plums that are fully ripe. Allow to each pound -a pound and a half of sugar. Scald them till the skins peel off easily, -and extract all the stones. Lay them in the sugar for two or three hours -or more, and then boil them till they become a thick smooth mass. -Green-gages the same. - -_Raspberry Jam._--To every quart of fine ripe raspberries allow a pound -of best loaf sugar, powdered. Put them together into a broad white-ware -pan, and let them rest for two or three hours. Then boil them in an -uncovered porcelain kettle, taking off the scum carefully. When no more -scum rises, mash them, and boil them to a smooth thick marmalade. When -cold, put it up in half pint tumblers, and cover them with rounds of -double tissue paper, cut exactly to fit, and then with thick white -paper dipped in brandy. - -_Strawberry Jam._--The strawberries must be quite ripe, and very fine. -Allow to each quart a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Put them into a -large white-ware pan; a layer of sugar and a layer of strawberries -alternately, finishing with strawberries on the top. Let them rest in -the sugar and juice three or four hours. Then boil and skim them till -they become very thick and smooth. When cold, put them up in tumblers, -with double tissue paper over the top. Blackberry jam is made in the -same manner. - -_Gooseberry Jam._--Top and tail the gooseberries, which must be -thoroughly ripe, and with thin skins. They require to every pound of -fruit a pound and a half of sugar of the best sort. Mash them with a -wooden beetle, and put them with all the sugar into an uncovered -porcelain kettle, and boil and skim them. When half done add more sugar, -and continue boiling till they are a very thick marmalade. When cold, -cover the tumblers with brandy paper. - -_Pine-apple Marmalade._--Take the best and ripest pine-apples; remove -the leaves, and split each pine-apple into four pieces, and cut out the -core from the centre. Stand the pieces upright in a deep dish, and, with -a large coarse grater grate down all the _flesh_ of the fruit, as it is -called. To every pint of grated pine-apple allow a pound of powdered -loaf sugar, and put them together in a large tureen. Let them rest two -hours. Then transfer the whole to a porcelain kettle. Leave it -uncovered; and boil, skim, and stir, till it becomes a very thick -marmalade. When cool, put it up in glass jars. It is a very nice -sweetmeat, particularly for shells or tarts. - -_Grape Marmalade._--Take a sufficiency of fine grapes, thoroughly ripe. -Having picked them from the stems, mash them with a wooden beetle, and -then press them through a sieve. To every pint of the pulp allow a pound -of powdered sugar, well mixed in; let it stand an hour or two. Then boil -it, uncovered, in a porcelain kettle, skimming and stirring well, till -it is very thick and smooth. When cool, put it up in small marmalade -pots of white-ware with lids, and paste a band of thick white paper -round each, at the small crack where the cover fits on. A good marmalade -for the backwoods may be made of wild grapes and maple sugar. - -_Cherry Marmalade._--If you cannot procure morellas, (the best of all -cherries for sweetmeats) use the large Virginia or carnation cherries. -Black cherries are unfit for cooking. Stem and stone your cherries, -saving all the juice you can. Allow a pound of powdered loaf sugar to -every pint of cherries. Boil the fruit and the sugar together, -uncovered, for an hour, skimming and stirring. When cool, put it in -white-ware marmalade pots and paste the lids. - -_Orange Marmalade._--Quarter some large ripe oranges, and remove the -rind, the seeds, and the strings or filaments, taking care to save all -the juice. Put the pulp, with the juice, into a porcelain kettle, and -mix with it an equal quantity of strained honey, adding sufficient -powdered loaf sugar to render it very thick and sweet. The honey alone -will not make it sweet enough. Boil it uncovered, and skim it till very -thick, smooth, and clear. Taste it, and if necessary add more sugar, and -boil it longer. When cold, put it up in tumblers or white-ware marmalade -pots, and cover it securely. This marmalade is exquisite, and very -superior to any other. - -_Orange Milk._--Take four dozen large ripe juicy oranges, and roll them -under your hand. Cut them in two; remove the seeds, and squeeze the -juice into a large clean stone jar. Have ready four pounds of the best -double-refined loaf sugar, dissolved in a gallon of French brandy. Pour -it into the jar that contains the orange juice; stir the mixture well, -and add the yellow rind of the oranges, pared so thin from the white as -to be transparent, and divide it into bits. Cover the jar, and let it -stand four days, stirring it frequently. Then take a gallon of new -unskimmed milk, (the morning's milk of that day,) boil it alone, and -when it comes to a hard boil pour it into the mixture of orange, sugar, -and brandy. Cover it closely, and let it stand till quite cold. Then -strain it into another vessel through a linen jelly bag. Bottle it -immediately, and seal the corks. It improves by keeping. To use it, pour -it out in half tumblers, and fill up with ice water, or serve it round -undiluted in small cordial glasses, after ice-cream. It is much -admired, and in orange countries may be made in large quantities. Lemon -milk is made in the same manner, having a larger proportion of sugar. - -_Fruit in Syrups._--Make a syrup in the proportion of half a pint of -water to every pound of sugar, and a pint of the juice of any sort of -fine ripe fruit. Boil and skim it till very clear, but not till it -congeals or jellies. Then bottle it, and cork the bottles. As the fresh -fruit comes again into season, select the finest, largest, and ripest. -For instance, half fill a white-ware preserve jar with fine fresh -strawberries, and fill up from a bottle of strawberry syrup; or ripe -raspberries with raspberry syrup; currants, with currant syrup, &c. -Cover them closely till wanted for immediate use. - - -PRESERVED CITRON MELONS.--Take some fine citron melons; pare, core, and -cut them into slices. Then weigh them; and, to every six pounds of -melon, allow six pounds of the best double refined loaf sugar, and the -juice and yellow rind (grated very fine,) of four large fresh lemons, -and _a quarter_ of a pound of root ginger. - -Put the slices of lemon into a preserving kettle, and boil them half an -hour or more, till they look _quite_ clear, and are so tender that a -broom twig will pierce through them. Then drain them; lay them in a -broad pan of cold water, cover them, and let them stand all night. In -the morning tie the root ginger in a thin muslin cloth, and boil it in -three pints of clear spring or pump water till the water is highly -flavored. Then take out the bag of ginger. Having broken up the sugar -put it into a clean preserving kettle, and pour the ginger water over -it. When the sugar is all melted set it over the fire, put in the grated -yellow peel of the lemons, and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. -Then put in the sliced citrons, and the juice of the lemons; and boil -them in the syrup till all the slices are quite transparent, and so soft -that a straw will go through them; but do not allow them to break. When -quite done, put the slices (while still warm,) into wide-mouthed glass -or white-ware jars, and gently pour on the syrup. Lay inside of each -jar, upon the top of the syrup, a round of white paper dipped in brandy. -Put on the lids of the jars, and tie leather over them. - -This will be found a delicious sweetmeat; equal to any imported from the -West Indies, and far less expensive. - - -PINE-APPLES PRESERVED.--Take six fine large pine-apples, as ripe as you -can get them. Make them very clean, but do not, at first, pare off the -rind or cut off the leaves. The rind and leaves being left on while -boiling will _keep in_ the flavor of the fruit. Put the pine-apples -whole into a very large and very clean iron pot. Fill it up with cold -water, and boil the pine-apples till they are so tender that you can -pierce them through the rind to the core, with a splinter skewer or a -twig from a corn broom. Then take them out of the pot, and drain them. -When they are so cool as to be handled without inconvenience, remove the -leaves, and pare off the rind. Cut then into round slices about half an -inch thick, extracting the core from the centre as to leave a small -round hole in every slice. Weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow -a pound of double refined loaf sugar, broken up and powdered. Cover the -bottom of a large dish or dishes with a thick layer of the sugar. On -this place a layer of pine-apple slices; then a layer of sugar; then a -layer of fruit, and so on till the slices are all thickly covered, -finishing with a layer of sugar at the top. Let them stand twenty-four -hours. Then drain the slices from the syrup, and lay them in wide jars. -Put all the syrup into a clear porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it -till the scum ceases to rise. Then pour it hot upon the pine-apple. -While warm, cover the jars closely with white paper cut to fit, and -dipped in brandy; and then tie on a piece of bladder. There is no better -way of preserving pine-apples, or that retains the flavor so well. - -Quinces may be preserved in the same manner. - - -PRESERVED LEMONS OR ORANGES.--The fruit must be perfectly ripe, of the -best quality, with a smooth rind and fine color. Cut out from the stem -end of each, a piece not quite the size of a quarter dollar, and with a -small knife scoop out all the inside, keeping the rind as whole as -possible. Put the pulp and juice into a large bowl, and clear it from -the strings and seeds. Lay the skins in a tureen of cold ice water, and -change it twice during the day, (fresh water and fresh ice); and at -bedtime put ice only. Next morning boil the skins slowly in a porcelain -kettle with plenty of water, keeping them well covered. Continue to boil -till they are tender all through, and can easily be pierced with a -splinter skewer. Then drain them, and lay them in cold water -immediately. Take care to boil with them the small round pieces that -come out of the top. Make a thick jelly or marmalade of the pulp and -juice of these, and some additional fruit, allowing to a pint of juice a -pound of loaf sugar. When the jelly has been boiled till clear and firm -when held in the air, fill with it the skins so as to swell them out -into a good shape. Replace the small circular pieces that have been cut -off the top of the fruit, and tie them on securely with packthread, so -as to keep in the jelly. Next make a thin syrup, allowing to a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar half a pint of fresh juice, and the beaten white of -an egg. Boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Then having put the -oranges into large glass jars rather more than half full, pour the syrup -on them, filling up to the top. - -_To Green Small Lemons or Limes._--Boil them first in a little hard -water, placing them in a porcelain kettle with a thick bed of fresh vine -leaves under them and a thick cover of vine leaves over them. Boil them -till green and tender in two or three waters, putting entirely fresh -vine leaves whenever you change the water, and persisting till they are -well greened. Then make holes in the stem end, and extract the pulp, -strings, and seeds, and proceed as directed in the last receipt. The -skins, as soon as empty, being laid in cold water, and then filled and -shaped out with lemon jelly, and the jars filled up warm with lemon -syrup. Or by putting a larger portion of sugar, and boiling the syrup -longer, you may candy it all over the surface of the fruit. - -Green limes are preserved in the above manner, filling the skins with -lemon jelly. To candy the syrup use a double portion of sugar, and boil -it till it bubbles and sparkles in the kettle. - - -PEACHES PRESERVED.--Take the finest ripe free-stone peaches. Pare them, -cut them in half, and remove the stones. To every pound of peaches allow -a pound of double refined loaf sugar, and half the white of an egg -(slightly beaten) with half a pint of very clear soft water. Put the -sugar into a porcelain preserving kettle, mix it with the water and -white of egg, and when it has entirely dissolved, set it over the fire, -and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise, which will be very -soon, if the sugar is as good as it should be. There is no economy in -using inferior sugar for sweetmeats, as much of it will be lost in -skimming and sediment. In the mean time, boil in a little sauce-pan a -bunch of fresh green peach leaves that have been cleared from all dust; -or a handful of broken-up peach kernels. When the flavor is well -extracted, strain this water and mix it with the syrup. Then put in the -halved peaches, and boil them (uncovered) till quite clear and soft, but -not till they break. While warm, put them up with the syrup in glass or -white-ware jars. - -Apricots are preserved in the same way. - -_Preserved Green Gages._--Get the largest and ripest green gages, or egg -plums. Scald them in boiling water to make them peel easily; the skins -of all sorts of plums becoming very hard and tough when preserved. -Remove the stems; they are no ornament, and render them troublesome to -eat. Make a syrup in the usual way, allowing to each pound of plums a -pound of the finest loaf sugar, half a pint of water, and half a white -of egg. When well skimmed and boiled put in the plums, and boil them -gently till quite clear and soft, but not till broken. All plums may be -done in this manner. If not as ripe as possible, they will require to -each pound of fruit a pound and a half of the best sugar. - - -BRANDY PEACHES.--Take large juicy _free-stone_ peaches, not so ripe as -to burst or mash on being handled. Rub off the down from every one with -a clean thick flannel. Prick every peach down to the stone with a large -silver fork, and score them all along the seam or cleft. To _each_ pound -of peaches allow a pound of double-refined loaf sugar, broken-up small, -and a half pint of water mixed with half a white of egg, slightly -beaten. Put the sugar into a porcelain kettle, and pour the water upon -it. When it is quite melted give it a stirring, set it over the fire, -and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Next put in the peaches, -and let them cook (uncovered) in the syrup till they look clear, or for -about half an hour, or till a straw will penetrate them. Then take the -kettle off the fire. Having allotted a pint of the very best white -brandy to each pound of peaches, mix it with the syrup, after taking out -the fruit with a wooden spoon, and draining it over the kettle. Put the -peaches into a large tureen. Let the syrup remain in the kettle a little -longer. Mix the brandy with it, and boil them together ten minutes, or -more. Transfer the peaches to large glass jars, (two thirds full,) and -pour the brandy and syrup over them, filling quite up to the top. When -cool, cover them closely, and tie some bladder over the lids. - -_Green Gages_--Are brandied in the same manner. Also, large egg-plums. -Pears also, having first peeled them. To pear sweetmeats always add -lemon rind grated, and lemon juice. - - -PRESERVED TOMATOS.--This is an excellent and popular sweetmeat, when -flavored well with lemon, which is indispensable to making it palatable. -Also, it should be well penetrated with sugar, therefore it is best not -to attempt preserving tomatos whole. The best time for doing them is in -the height of the lemon season. The most convenient for preserving are -those with smooth even surfaces. If fluted or cleft they are difficult -to peel when scalded, as the skins do not strip off so easily. Having -weighed the tomatos, (which must be full-grown and quite ripe) allow to -every two pounds, two pounds of the best _brown_ sugar, a large spoonful -of ground ginger, and the juice and grated yellow rind of one large ripe -lemon, rolled awhile under your hand. Having scalded and peeled all the -tomatos, and mixed with the sugar a little beaten white of egg, put them -into a porcelain-lined preserving kettle, (uncovered,) and add, -gradually, the sugar. Boil the tomatos and sugar _slowly_ together, till -the scum ceases to appear. Then add, gradually, the lemons, (peel and -juice,) and boil slowly for an hour or more. The tomatos must all have -bursted, otherwise they will not keep, from the sugar not getting -sufficiently into them. When done, take them off the fire, and transfer -to glass jars the tomatos with their syrup. - -For yellow preserves take yellow tomatos, scald and peel them, and prick -each with a silver fork. Lay them in a porcelain preserving kettle with -plenty of fresh vine leaves under and over them. Boil them with the vine -leaves till they become a finer yellow. Then wash out the kettle and -boil the tomatos, as above, with the _white_ sugar, and add the lemon. - -_Green Tomatos Preserved._--Take green tomatos when they are full grown, -but have not yet begun to turn in the least red. Scald and peel them, -and lay them in a porcelain kettle with plenty of fresh vine leaves at -the bottom. Cover them thickly with another layer of vine leaves at the -top. Boil them very slowly with the vine leaves till they have all -turned yellow. Then take them out, and spread them on large dishes. Wash -the kettle, put in fresh vine leaves under and over the tomatos. They -should become a fine green with the second boiling in vine leaves; -otherwise repeat the greening. Then take them out, wash the kettle -again, and return the tomatos to it with _a pound and a half of white -sugar_ to each pound of tomatos. Boil and skim, till all is clear and -nice. Then add the grated yellow rind and the juice of one large lemon -to every pound of tomatos, and boil slowly an hour longer. All the -tomatos should burst, that the sugar may thoroughly enter the inside. -Before you cover the jars, stir into each an additional quarter or half -pound of powdered sugar. Green tomatos require a high flavoring of -lemon, as they have no peculiar taste of their own. - - -PRESERVED QUINCES.--Take the largest and ripest yellow quinces; after -they have remained on the trees till the first frost. Wipe them clean, -and boil them whole till they are tender all through, and can be easily -penetrated with a splinter skewer. Save and strain the water in which -they were boiled. When cool, pare and core the quinces, and carefully -remove the blemishes. To every pound of fruit allow a pound of the best -double-refined loaf sugar. Make a syrup of the water in which the -quinces were boiled, allowing half a pint of this water to every pound -of sugar. When melted, set it in a porcelain kettle over a moderate -fire, and boil and skim it till no more scum appears. Then put in the -fruit, either whole or quartered, or cut into circular slices about half -an inch thick; and boil it uncovered. When the quinces are quite clear -and soft, (but not the least broken) take them out, and spread them on -large flat dishes. Afterwards transfer them to large glass jars, rather -more than half filled; pour the syrup warm over them; and when cool -cover the jars, and tie pieces of bladder over the covers. You may boil, -by themselves, the cores and parings, in as much water as will cover -them well, till they are entirely dissolved. Then strain them through a -linen bag, and while hot stir in as much powdered loaf sugar as will -form a thick jelly. If the quinces have been preserved whole, fill up -with this jelly the holes left by the cores; or if sliced, spread the -jelly over the slices. Quinces soon become very hard and tough, unless -they have been well boiled by themselves, before putting them into the -sugar. Merely scalding or coddling them is not sufficient. If you have -not jelly for filling up the holes, substitute marmalade. To keep -quinces well, requires plenty of rich syrup. - - -PRESERVED CRAB-APPLES.--Take the finest Siberian crab-apples, which -being always red, and having a pleasant acid, are the only sort now used -for preserving. Rub each crab-apple with a dry clean flannel, and then -prick every one in several places with a large needle to prevent their -bursting. To every pound of fruit allow a pound and a half of -double-refined loaf sugar, and a pint of water. First make a syrup of -the sugar and water, boiling it in a porcelain kettle, and skimming it -till perfectly clear. Put in the crab-apples, adding for each pound the -juice and grated yellow rind of a large lemon. The lemon is -indispensable to this sweetmeat. Simmer them slowly in this syrup till -tender all through, so that they can be pierced with a twig of -broom-corn; but do not allow them to break. When done, put them up warm -in glass jars more than half full, and the syrup over them. You may -heighten the fine red color with a little prepared cochineal--that is, -cochineal powder kept in a bottle after being boiled with alum and cream -of tartar. - -_Bellflower Apples or Large Pippins_--May be preserved whole in the -above manner. They look handsomely on a supper table, covered all over -with a thick meringue or icing flavored with lemon or rose, and spread -smoothly over every apple with a real rose-bud stuck in the top of each. -You may color the icing a beautiful pink, by mixing with it a little -prepared cochineal. - - -PRESERVED CHERRIES.--No cherries are worth preserving except morellas, -or the large Virginia red, or carnation cherries. Stem and stone them -carefully, saving the juice; and strew them thickly with powdered white -sugar. To a quart of cherries allow a pound of the best loaf sugar. Make -a syrup, allowing half a pint of water to a pound of sugar. Boil and -skim it, and when the scum has ceased to rise put in the cherries and -their juice, and give them a slow boil up. Put them up warm in glass or -white-ware jars, and tie bladder over the lids. - - -FINE PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES.--Have ready two sorts of strawberries, one -half being of the largest and finest scarlet sort, (not too ripe,) the -other smaller and less expensive, but quite ripe and perfectly fresh and -nice. Put the smaller ones into a porcelain kettle, having allowed three -quarters of a pound of double-refined loaf sugar to every quart of -fruit. Boil the sugar and small strawberries together; skimming well, -and stirring down to the bottom after every skimming, and mashing it to -a jam. When done, set it to cool in a large pan; wash the kettle clean, -or take another one, and make in it a clear syrup, allowing to each -pound of the best loaf sugar a _small_ half pint of water. When melted -set it over the fire, and boil and skim till the scum ceases to rise. -Put the large strawberries in this, and give them one boil up. If boiled -too long they will break. As soon as they have come to a boil take them -(one at a time,) with a silver tea-spoon, and lay them separately on -large flat dishes. Then mix the syrup with the jam thoroughly together, -and boil it a quarter of an hour. Put the large strawberries, one at a -time, into glass jars, (more than half full,) and fill up to the top -with the hot jam. When cool lay a round of brandy paper on the surface, -and secure the lids by tying pieces of bladder over them. - - -STRAWBERRIES IN WINE.--Put a small quart of fine large scarlet -strawberries into a glass jar, having sprinkled among them a quarter of -a pound of the best loaf sugar. Fill up the jar with madeira or sherry. -They are served at parties in small glass saucers, heaped on the top -with whipped cream, or with white ice cream. What is sold by many -confectioners as strawberry ice cream, has in reality no strawberries -about it; as may be known by its beautiful rose color, such as -strawberry juice never produces, particularly after being preserved with -sugar. This fine delicate pink tinge comes in reality from alkanet. Most -of what is called strawberry cordial, is in reality alcohol colored with -that elegant dye. - - -STRAWBERRY WINE.--Fill four glass jars holding each a quart, with fine -ripe strawberries that have been hulled or picked clean. Cover them; -set them in a large kettle of cold water, and place it in a moderate -heat till it gradually comes to a boil. Then let it boil but five -minutes. Cork the jars, and seal them closely before you take them out -of the water. Use the cement of two-thirds resin and one-third beeswax. -Keep the jar for four weeks in a dry cool place. By that time you will -find the strawberries with a thick white scum at the top, and a clear -juice at the bottom. Pour it into clean bottles, through a funnel with a -fine straining cloth. Cork the bottles, but do not drive the corks hard -down, lest the bottles should burst if too tight. Arrange the bottles on -the kitchen mantleshelf, where they may have some heat from the fire. -You will see when a vinous fermentation takes place. It may continue a -week. When it has entirely subsided, and is very clear, strain off the -liquid from the sediment into fresh bottles, and cork them tightly. When -you put them away, lay the bottles on their sides. This is a delicious -cordial, and requires no brandy in it. - -_Preserved Gooseberries._--Top and tail the gooseberries, which should -be of two sorts, and as ripe as you can get. The best kind quite ripe, -large, and of a light amber color. Wash the others, and boil them in a -porcelain kettle with barely water enough to keep them from burning. -When they are soft and broken, mash the pulp through a sieve, or squeeze -it through a linen bag. Measure it, and to each pint allow a large pound -of powdered loaf sugar. Boil the sugar with the pulp, skimming and -stirring it till it begins to jelly. Then put in the large gooseberries, -and give them one boil up. When done take them out separately, and -spread them on a large flat dish. Continue to boil the syrup a while -longer, till you find it congeals well on holding out a spoonful in the -open air. Then put the large gooseberries into jars, and pour the syrup -over them while still hot and liquid. Put them up warm. - -_Raspberries_--May be preserved as above, reserving the finest for -putting whole into the jelly. The large white raspberries make a fine -sweetmeat, done whole in jelly or jam of white currants. - -Black currants should always be made into jelly or jam. They require -less sugar than other sweetmeats, (a quarter of a pound less) their -juice being naturally very thick. - - -COUNTRY PLUMS.--Gather your plums when perfectly ripe, and ready to fall -from the trees. Split them with a knife, and remove the stones. Spread -them out on large dishes, so as not to touch, and set them in the hot -sun on a sunny roof or balcony; taking them in every evening before -dark, and not putting them out till after the dew is off in the morning. -Repeat this for three or four days. Then pack them down in stone jars -with a large quantity of the best brown sugar, a layer of plums and a -layer of sugar alternately, (sugar being at the bottom and top) and -cover the jars closely. Let them remain undisturbed till February or -March. When opened, you will have plenty of rich syrup among them. They -make good spring pies, and will be prized for family use at that season. - -_Country Grapes._--The little wild grapes have a very pleasant taste -after the first frost in the autumn, and should not be gathered till -that time. Until frosted, they are too sour to eat. To keep them all -winter, strip them from the stems and put them in stone jars with layers -of good brown sugar, till the jars are three parts full. Then fill up to -the top with West India molasses. They will make good winter pies, when -cranberries, dried peaches, and dried apples are scarce. - -_Persimmon Jam._--Do not gather persimmons till late in the fall, when -they are well sweetened with the frost. They are unfit to eat till all -the leaves are off the trees, and till they are ripe enough to mash. -Then pack them in jars with plenty of brown sugar. Maple sugar will do. -In the back-woods they will be valued. When cooked they will be improved -by the addition of a little _sweet_ cider. - - - - -PICKLES. - - -For pickles the articles should all be fine and freshly gathered. They -are generally too hard to be cut or eaten conveniently, and there is too -much unnecessary fear of pickles proving soft. It is not now customary -to keep them for weeks in salt and water; two or three days will be -sufficient for this part of the process, and some kinds do not require -it at all. The arts of both preserving and pickling are of late years -much simplified. All pickles have nearly the same taste, and there is no -use (and much trouble) in multiplying varieties, when a few sorts of the -very best will be found amply sufficient for any table. One important -point to be always observed, is to use none but the most wholesome -vinegar, (the genuine cider,) as all that is made of drugs is -unwholesome to the eater and destructive to the pickles. On no -consideration boil them in brass, copper, or bell-metal--things which -fortunately are now nearly exploded from all kitchens; iron lined with -Delft, (called porcelain,) being universally substituted. - -To green pickles boil them with a thick bed of fresh vine leaves, both -under and over them. This will first render them yellow; then boil them -again in a clean kettle with fresh vine leaves. If not green enough when -you think they are done, repeat the boiling again, with fresh vine -leaves and fresh water. Avoid eating pickles that are of a fine -verdigris green. They are greened with copper, and are poisonous. - -If you cannot obtain vine leaves, you may green pickles by boiling them -with fresh cabbage leaves under and over. The first boiling will turn -them yellow, the second with new leaves should render them green. But -vine leaves are better and more certain. Put them up warm in stone or, -glass jars with broad flat corks; and tie kid leather over them. - - -INDIA PICKLE.--For this pickle you may use a variety of _young_ fruits -and vegetables. For instance, red cherries, grapes, plums, apricots, -young peaches, or lemons, limes, button-tomatos, cauliflowers sliced, -white cabbage sliced, hard-boiled eggs sliced, little onions, -nasturtions, small cucumbers, &c. Having nicely prepared these things, -put them all together into a large porcelain kettle, and scald them in a -strong brine made in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of fine salt -to a quart of boiling water. Pour it hot over the pickles, and let them -remain in it till next day. Then take them out, and drain off all the -brine through a sieve. Spread them out (so as not to touch,) on large -flat dishes or old japan servers, and set them in the hot sun for three -or four days; carefully taking them in at evening, and if the weather -becomes damp or cloudy. Afterwards put them into a cullender or sieve, -wash them well through cold water, and then wipe them all dry with a -coarse cloth. Put them into a large pan. Mix together a quarter pound of -grated horse-radish, sliced; two cloves of garlic; half a hundred small -white onions; two ounces of mace; a quarter of a pound of ground ginger; -two nutmegs, powdered; two pounds of powdered loaf sugar; half a bottle -of the best ground mustard; half a pound of yellow mustard seed, and an -ounce of turmeric powder, which must on no account be omitted, as a -yellow tinge is indispensable to this pickle. Mix all the seasoning with -sufficient excellent cider vinegar to render it liquid, and pour it over -the pickles in the pan, and then stir them up from the bottom. Let the -whole rest till cold. Then transfer it to stone jars. Have ready some -more vinegar, pour it boiling hot on the pickles, &c., but do not fill -up to the top, as they expand and rise. - - -PICKLED PEACHES.--Take eight fine large free-stone peaches, (white or -yellow,) when nearly but not quite ripe. Wipe off the down with a clean -flannel, and put them into a brine strong enough to bear up an egg. In -two days take them out, and drain them for several hours on an inverted -sieve. Tie in a piece of thin muslin one ounce of whole white pepper; -one of broken-up ginger; eight blades of mace, and two ounces of mustard -seed. Boil this seasoning for ten minutes in a quart of the best cider -vinegar. Lay the peaches in a broad-mouthed stone jar, with the bag of -spice at the bottom, and pour the vinegar boiling hot upon them. At the -top add a table-spoonful of salad oil. Put them up warm, and secure them -with broad flat corks, and rounds of leather tied on carefully. - -_Peach Mangoes._--The above sort of peaches are best for mangoes. Steep -them in brine for two days. Cut a small piece out of each, and carefully -loose the stones from the inside with a small sharp knife. It will then -be easy to thrust them out of free-stone peaches, and none others should -be used, either for pickling or preserving. Make a filling for the -places that were occupied by the stones. For this purpose, use fresh -mustard seed moistened with vinegar; scraped horse-radish, powdered -ginger, a clove of garlic, or a minced shalot or very small onion, and a -very little chilli or red pepper minced very small. Also a little -powdered mace, and a little chopped peach. With this mixture stuff the -peaches hard. Replace the bits that were cut off, and tie them on firmly -with fine packthread, crossing the peach. Boil a quart of the best -vinegar, seasoned with white spices and mustard seed, tied up in muslin; -and when it has boiled ten minutes, pour it hot over the peach mangoes -in a stone jar. Add at the top a table-spoonful of salad oil; cork the -jar immediately, and tie leather over it. Where there is no dislike to -cloves, you may stick half a dozen into the outside of each peach; but -we think a few small bits of mace will be preferable, as the clove -taste will overpower every thing else. - - -MELON MANGOES.--Take the small green melons, used only for this purpose, -and let them lie in a strong brine for two days. Take them out and drain -them well. Cut a small square bit out of one side, and through this hole -extract all the seeds and filaments. Have ready a stuffing made of -grated horse-radish, white mustard seed, minced shalot, or a clove of -garlic chopped fine; a very little chilli or red pepper, and a little -powdered mace. Wet this stuffing well with vinegar, and then fill with -it the cavity of the mango. Replace the bit that was cut out, and tie it -in with packthread, crossing all over the melon. Then place the mangoes -in a stone jar. Have ready a sufficiency of the best vinegar, (a large -quart or more, for eight or ten mangoes,) boiled ten minutes, with a -seasoning of mustard seed, ginger, mace, grated horse-radish, and -chopped shalot or little onion, or a clove of garlic minced very -small--all tied in a bit of muslin. Pour the vinegar boiling hot over -the mangoes, having placed among them the bag of seasoning. Finish with -sweet oil at the top of the jar. - - -MUSHROOMS PICKLED.--For pickling, the small button mushrooms are best. -After cutting off the stalk closely, and with a sharp penknife peeling -off carefully their thin outside skin, measure two quarts, taking care -that they are all of the right sort, and freshly gathered; the outside -of a dull whitish color, and the underside of a fine pinkish salmon -tinge. If very white above and below, or if bright yellow, they are -poisonous. _Good_ mushrooms grow always in open fields or airy places; -never in woods or marshes. To pickle two quarts, prepare eight little -bags of very clear muslin; and tie up in each bag six blades of mace, -six slices of root ginger, and half a nutmeg broken up. Have ready four -glass jars, such as are considered to hold a quart. Lay a bag of spice -in the bottom of each. Having sprinkled the mushrooms well with salt, -let them rest till next day. Then divide the mushrooms and their liquor -into four pints. Put one pint into each jar, with a bag of spice at the -bottom, and another at the top. Pour on boiling cider vinegar of the -best quality, and finish with a table-spoonful of salad oil. Cork the -jars immediately, and tie leather carefully over the top. All mushrooms -turn brown on the under-side the day after they are gathered, and -sometimes sooner. - -Boiling the spice in the vinegar will weaken the mushroom flavor. When -you open a jar of pickled mushrooms, immediately cork it again; tie on -the leather cover, and use it up as soon as possible. Therefore, pint -jars, with half a pint of mushrooms in each, are convenient. - - -BELL-PEPPERS PICKLED.--Take fine full-grown bell-peppers. Make a brine -in a stone jar of salt and water, strong enough to float an egg, and let -the peppers remain in it two days, putting a weight on the cover to keep -it down. Then take them out, wash them well in cold water, drain them, -and wipe them dry. Cut a slit in the side of each, and extract all the -seeds, as if left in, they will be entirely too hot. Through these slits -let all the water run out. Put them into a clean stone jar. Boil -sufficient of the best cider vinegar, interspersed with the muslin bags -of broken-up cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. Pour it, boiling hot, on the -peppers in the jar. Distribute the bags of spice among the peppers, and -cork the jar warm. You may stuff the peppers in the manner of mangoes, -with pickled red cabbage finely shred, minced onions and minced -cucumbers pickled, and seasoned with a little mustard seed, ginger, and -mace. Tie up the slit with packthread, crossing all round. Fill up the -jars with vinegar, putting sweet oil on the top. - -Your may green bell-peppers in the usual way, with vine leaves or -cabbage leaves. - -All pickles should be kept in a dry place. If you find them mouldy they -are not always spoiled. Take them out of the jar, wipe off all the mould -carefully, and throw away the vinegar. Wash the jar very clean, scald -it, and set it in the sun to purify still more. Make a new pickle with -fresh seasoning, and put them into that. - - -PICKLED CAULIFLOWERS.--Take large, ripe, full-blown cauliflowers. Remove -the leaves and stalk, and divide the blossom into pieces or clusters of -equal size. Throw them into a porcelain kettle of boiling water, (adding -a little salt,) let them simmer, and skim them well. When they come to a -boil, take them up with a perforated skimmer, and lay them on a sieve to -drain. Put them into stone jars, (three parts full.) Season with mace -and nutmeg infused in sufficient of the best cider vinegar, and simmer -it for a quarter of an hour. When it comes to a boil take it off the -fire, and pour it hot over the cauliflower in the jar, filling quite up -to the top, and adding sweet oil at the last. Cover it while warm, and -tie leather over the top. If you wish to have the cauliflowers yellow, -boil with the vinegar some turmeric powder tied up in thin muslin. This -is a very nice pickle. - -Broccoli is done in the same manner, but should be previously greened by -boiling it with vine leaves. - - -PICKLED BEETS WITH CABBAGE.--Take a large fine _red_ cabbage, wash it -well, and drain it. Quarter it, (having removed the stalk) and slice it -with a cabbage-cutter as for coldslaw. Boil some beets in the usual way -till quite tender, (they require a very long time) and while warm peel -and slice them in round pieces, or split them down, and cut them into -long bits. Lay them in a large stone jar, alternately with layers of -the shred cabbage, till the jar is more than half full. Have ready some -scalding vinegar that has been boiled with a seasoning of blades of mace -and sliced ginger root, and some nutmeg. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, -upon the cabbage and beet, till you have the jars quite full. Finish -with a large table-spoonful of sweet oil. Cover the jar with leather, -and put it away warm. - - -PICKLED CUCUMBERS.--Take small young cucumbers, freshly gathered, and -free from blemishes. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg, and let -the cucumbers lie in it till they become yellow, stirring them down to -the bottom twice a day. Then pour off all the brine, wash the cucumbers -in cold water, and drain them. Lay a thick bed of fresh green vine -leaves in the bottom and sides of a porcelain kettle. Put in the -cucumbers, and pour on sufficient cold water to wet them all -plentifully. Then cover them, closely, with more vine leaves, and pour -on more water, packing the leaves well and pressing them down. Fill up -to the top with water and vine leaves, and cover the kettle closely to -keep in the steam. Hang it over a slow fire where there is no blaze, and -keep it _warm_ all night, but not _hot_. In the morning if the pickles -are not a fine deep green, remove the vine leaves and replace them with -a fresh supply. After this, they will be generally green enough; but if -not, continue till they are. Then drain the cucumbers on a sieve, and -transfer them to a very clean stone jar. To fifty cucumbers allow four -quarts of excellent vinegar, and a bit of alum about the size of a large -grain of corn, with half an ounce of mustard seed, half an ounce of -mace, a broken-up nutmeg, and half an ounce of root ginger, sliced. Tie -up the spice in three muslin bags, and boil them ten minutes in the -vinegar. Then take out and lay them among the cucumbers in the jar; one -to the bottom, one in the middle, and one at the top. Pour over them the -vinegar boiling hot; add a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and cork the jar -immediately, tying a leather over it. Keep wooden pickle spoons in the -pantry for taking out pickles, and always be careful to close the jar -immediately after. - -You need not keep the bags of spice in the jars more than two or three -weeks. - - -PICKLED ONIONS.--Take the small silver-skinned white onions. Peel off -the outer skin. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg, skim it -well, and when it begins to cool pour it upon the onions. Let them stand -in it (closely covered,) till quite cold. Then take them out, peel off -another skin, and wash them through a cullender in cold water. Next, -boil them in milk till tender all through, so that you can easily pierce -them with a needle. Then drain off the milk. Measure them, and to a -quart of onions allow a quart of the best cider vinegar. Boil in the -vinegar two muslin bags tied up with broken-up nutmeg and mace. When it -has boiled, pour it hot over the onions in the jar; having laid one bag -of spice at the bottom, and one in the middle. The onions should fill -two thirds of the jar, and the vinegar the remainder. Finish with a -table-spoonful of salad oil, and cork the jar immediately, and tie on -the leather cover. - -As onions pickled this way are generally much liked, it is well, when -doing them, to make several jars full. - -_Cucumber and Onion Pickle._--To a dozen fine cucumbers allow three -large onions. Pare the cucumbers and peel the onions, and cut both into -thick slices. Sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and let them rest till -next day. Then drain them well, and put them into a stone jar. Pour -boiling vinegar over them. Close the jar, and set it in a warm place. -Next day repeat the boiling vinegar, and cork the jar. Next day repeat -it again, with a bag of mace, nutmeg, and ginger, boiled in the vinegar. -Then cork the jar, and tie it up. When the pickle is finished, divide it -in small stone jars, with sweet oil on the top of each. - - -WALNUTS OR BUTTERNUTS PICKLED--Gather them in early summer, when they -are full-grown, but so tender that a large needle will easily pierce -them all through. Rub off the outer skin with a coarse cloth, and then -lay them in salt and water for a week, changing the brine every other -day. Allow for this brine a small quarter of a pound of salt to a large -quart of water. Make enough to cover all the nuts well. Place a large -lid over the pan, and keep them closely from the air. The last day take -them out of the brine, drain them, and prick every one quite through in -several places with a large needle. Drain them again, spread them out on -large flat dishes, and set them to blacken for two days in the hot sun. -For a hundred nuts, allow a gallon of excellent cider vinegar, half an -ounce of black pepper-corns, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of -allspice, an ounce of root ginger, and an ounce of mace. Boil the spice -in the vinegar for ten minutes, tied up in eight small muslin bags. Then -take them out, and having divided the nuts in four stone jars, -distribute among them, equally, the bags of spice, and pour on the -vinegar hot, an equal portion in each jar. While warm, secure them with -flat corks, and tie leather over them. Done this way, you may begin to -use them in a week. If you have not enough of vinegar to fill the jars -up to the top, add some cold, and strew among the nuts some blades of -mace. Finish with a large spoonful of salad oil at the top of each jar. - - -PICKLED PLUMS.--Take large fine plums; perfect, and quite ripe. To every -quart of plums allow half a pound of the best white sugar powdered, and -a large pint of the best cider vinegar. Melt the sugar in the vinegar, -and put it with the fruit into a porcelain kettle; all the plums having -been previously pricked to the stone with a large needle. Lay among them -some small muslin bags filled with broken nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon; -and if you choose, a few cloves. Give them one boil up, skimming them -well. Put them warm into stone jars, with the bags interspersed, and -cork them immediately. Green gages may be done in this manner, first -rendering them greener by boiling with vine leaves in the usual way. - -_Damsons Pickled._--Do these in the same manner as plums; but as they -are much more acid, allow brown sugar of the best kind. Plums or damsons -may be pickled plain, and with little trouble if full ripe, pricked with -a needle, and packed down in a stone jar with profuse layers of brown -sugar between the layers of fruit; the jars filled up with cold cider -vinegar, and putting sweet oil at the top. - - -_Pickled Cherries._--Take the largest and finest red cherries, fully -ripe. Morellas are the best. Either remove the stems entirely, or cut -them short, within two inches of the fruit. Have ready a large glass -jar. Fill it two thirds with fresh newly-gathered cherries, and then -fill up to the top with the best vinegar. Keep it well covered, and if -both fruit and vinegar are of excellent quality, no boiling is -necessary, and no spice, as the cherry flavor will be retained, and they -will not shrivel. - -_Button Tomatos._--The small round tomatos, either red or yellow, will -keep perfectly, if put whole into cold vinegar of the _really_ best -quality. You may add a bag of spice if you choose. - -_Nasturtion Seeds._--Keep a large glass jar of cold cider vinegar, and -put in the green seeds of nasturtions after the flowers are off, and the -seeds full-grown, but not hard. Remove the stalks. In this simple way -nasturtions will keep perfectly well, and are an excellent substitute -for capers with boiled mutton. They can be raised profusely, even in a -city garden, and the blossoms are very beautiful. With pepper-grass and -nasturtion flowers from your own garden, you can have a nice salad for a -summer evening tea-table. - -The three pickles above (cherries, button tomatos, and nasturtion -seeds,) are cheap, easy, and palatable. Try them. To flavor them with -spice, boil the vinegar with a bag of spice in it, and pour it on hot, -leaving the bag among them in the jar. - - - - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. - - -CHICKEN BROTH.--Skin and cut up a fine full-grown fowl. If but little is -wanted, take only the dark meat for the broth, and put it into a pot -with a small quart of water, and slowly boil it to rags. Strain the -liquid and return it to the pot, and thicken it with two spoonfuls of -arrow root, if no vegetables are permitted. Otherwise, you may boil with -the chicken some sliced onion and sliced turnip, with a grated parsnip -and a sliced potato, straining out the vegetables with the shreds of -fowl. You may reserve the white meat of the breast and wings to make -another dish, if the patient is permitted to take it. This is the white -meat cut off the bones, and stewed slowly in fresh oyster liquid, with a -bit of nice butter. If the patient is well enough, stir in a beaten egg -just before the stew is taken from the fire. - -_Oyster Soup for Invalids._--Remove the gristle from a dozen fine large -fresh oysters. Take half their liquor and mix it with an equal portion -of very good milk, seasoning it with three or four blades of mace, and a -stalk of celery scraped and cut into pieces. When it has boiled and been -skimmed well, strain it over the oysters, and let all simmer together -till the oysters are plumped, but do not let them come to a boil. Serve -it up in a bowl, with some milk biscuit to eat with it. - -_Clam Soup for Invalids._--Where salt is permitted, cut up and boil -slowly in their own liquor a dozen or more small sand clams. When well -boiled and skimmed, strain the liquor into a clean sauce-pan, and -thicken it with bread crumbs, and a small bit of nice fresh butter. The -clams are of no further use. Throw them away. - - -MUTTON BROTH FOR THE SICK.--Take two pounds from a nice neck of mutton, -and leave out some of the fat if there seems too much. Cut the meat from -the bones, and put it into a pot with a large quart of water, and no -seasoning. Boil it till the meat is all in rags. Do not skim it, as the -fat on the surface is very healing, if without salt or pepper. When -done, strain it into a bowl. Let the patient eat with it a slice of very -light wheat bread, having the crust cut off. It is excellent for the -dysentery. When the patient is convalescent, a little seasoning may be -allowed, and some well-boiled mashed turnips stirred into the bowl of -soup with a boiled onion sliced, and a thickening of arrow-root or -farina, stirred in about half an hour before the soup is taken up. Pour -it off clear from the shreds of meat at the bottom. - -_Veal Broth for Invalids._--Take a pound of knuckle of veal cut in -pieces, four calf's feet, split up. Boil them in a large quart of water, -till they are all reduced to rags. Then strain the liquid, and add to it -the soft part, only, of half a dozen fine oysters, and three or four -blades of mace. Set it again on the fire, and as soon as it simmers -well, take it off, and serve it up with very light milk biscuit, or -little bread rolls, to eat with it. Veal broth may be made with a piece -of knuckle of veal cut small, and boiled in the liquor of clams instead -of water. The clams themselves must be omitted, as they are always tough -and indigestible for an invalid, but their liquor adds a pleasant -relish to the insipidity of the veal. As the strength of the patient -improves, a grated carrot, a sliced onion, and some sliced turnip, may -be added to the veal from the beginning. - -_Raw Oysters for the Sick._--Take large fine fresh oysters, and -carefully cut out the hard part or gristle. They are considered very -good for convalescents, being, when raw, cooling, refreshing, and -nutritious. Drain them well from the liquor, making them as dry as you -can; and if permitted, accompany the oysters with black pepper and -vinegar, and a plate of bread and butter. - -_Birds._--Convalescents, not yet allowed to eat meat, can generally -relish birds nicely broiled, or stewed in their own gravy, with any -appropriate seasoning, and a little _fresh_ butter, if they are not very -fat. When dished, lay under each a piece of nice toast, dipped for a -minute in hot water. - -_Beefsteak for Invalids._--When this can be eaten with an appetite, -there is no greater promoter of returning health; but it must be of the -best sirloin steak, very tender, well broiled, and thoroughly done on -both sides, the gravy being carefully saved to serve up with it, a -little fresh butter being added after the meat comes off the gridiron. -If the taste of onion is desired, merely rub the plate with a peeled -onion. A very tender lamb-chop well broiled may be eaten by way of -change; but a tenderloin steak is better. Avoid pork, or veal cutlets. - -_Gravy Sippets._--For invalids who cannot yet eat meat, a light and -relishing preparation may be made with one or two slices of the best -wheat bread, divested of the crust, and spread on a hot plate, while -some nice well-skimmed gravy is poured over them; the gravy of roast -beef, veal, or mutton, that has had no butter about it. Gravy sippets -will form a variety to the usual broths, and other beginnings for the -resumption of animal food. - - -HERB TEAS.--Have one or more china or white-ware pots for the purpose of -making herb teas; and see that, after using, they are well washed, well -scalded and dried, and set open in the sun till wanted again. The herbs, -whether green or dried, should be of excellent quality, and picked very -clean from dust and stems. Having well-scalded the pot, take the -allotted quantity of the herb and put it in; then pour on the water, -which must be actually boiling at the time, and press the herbs down at -the bottom with a silver spoon. Then put on the lid closely, and -immediately stop up the spout with a small cork, or a wad of soft white -paper rolled tightly. This is to keep in the steam, and prevent the -strength of the herb from escaping. When sufficiently boiled, pour into -a pitcher with a lid, and through a strainer, as much of the tea as is -wanted. Strainers of block tin, with a handle and _very fine_ close -holes, are excellent for this and other purposes. - -_Herb Candies._--Hoarhound candy, and many others, may be made of a -strong decoction or tea of the herb, thickened with loaf sugar, and -boiled, skimmed, and stirred till very thick and stiff. Then pour it -smoothly into a square tin pan and set it in a cool place to congeal. -While still soft, mark it in even squares with a knife. When quite cold -and hard, loosen it from the pan with a knife, and take it out. It is -good for coughs. - -Peppermint candy is made in the same way, and is used for flatulence. - - -GRUEL.--Gruels, for patients who are unable to take any thing more -substantial, may be made of ground rice flour, arrow root, indian meal, -oatmeal grits, or farina. Mix to a paste, with water, two large -table-spoonfuls of any of the above articles; then stir the paste, -gradually, into a pint of water boiling on the fire, making it very -smooth and pressing out all the lumps. To prevent it boiling over, when -it has risen nearly to the top of the pan, remove it from the fire. -Sweeten it while hot, and, if permitted, add a little white wine with -nutmeg, and a small bit of fresh butter. - -_Toast and Water._--Cut a large slice or two of the best wheat bread; -pare off all the crust; and with a long-handled toasting fork toast it -evenly on both sides, not allowing it to blacken or burn in any part. -While hot from the fire, plunge the toast immediately into a quart -pitcher of clear cold water. Cover the pitcher instantly, and let it -infuse for half an hour or more, without leaving off the cover. When -done, it should be of a very pale brown color. - - -JELLY WATER.--Stir a table-spoonful of currant jelly into a half pint -tumbler of ice water, if the patient is feverish. The jelly may be of -other fruit, and if not sweet enough add some loaf sugar. The juice of -any ripe fruit, made sweet and mixed with cold water, is a good -substitute when sweetmeats are not at hand. Warm drinks are now seldom -used, but to promote perspiration and carry off a cold. Tamarinds are in -themselves very cooling and pleasant, and make an agreeable drink -infused in water, either warm or cold. - - -CARRAGEEN BLANCMANGE.--Carrageen is a species of sea moss which becomes -glutinous when boiled, and is considered remarkably nutritious and -strengthening. It can also be rendered very palatable. It is found -abundantly on some parts of our sea-coast, and may be obtained of the -best druggists, very nicely cleaned and pressed. To a small loose -handful of carrageen allow a small quart of rich unskimmed milk, half a -pound of powdered white sugar, a stick of the best cinnamon broken-up, -six or seven blades of mace, and half a nutmeg, powdered. Having washed -the carrageen through two or three cold waters, and shaken it out to -remove the drops that hang about it, put it to a pint and a half of the -cold milk. Boil it half an hour in a covered porcelain kettle. Then take -it out, for if it boils too long the carrageen will taste too strongly. -In another vessel boil the remaining half pint of milk with the spices, -till very highly flavored. Then strain it into the carrageen milk, and -stir in, gradually, the half pound of powdered loaf sugar. Set the -porcelain kettle again over the fire, and let it boil fast for five -minutes longer. Then strain it into moulds or bowls previously wet with -cold water; and when it has well congealed, turn it out, and serve it up -with sweetened cream, flavored with rose-water or peach-water. If for an -invalid, who is not allowed spices, flavor it with rose-water only, -stirred in after the blancmange has been taken from the fire. - - -FARINA BLANCMANGE.--From a quart of rich milk take out half a pint. Put -the half pint into a small sauce-pan, and add (if permitted) sufficient -mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon to flavor it well; the spices being tied up -in a very thin muslin bag. Then add the flavored milk to the remainder, -having stirred in two heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Set -it over the fire in a porcelain kettle, and when it has come to a boil -sprinkle in, gradually, four large heaping table-spoonfuls of farina, -stirring it well. Keep it boiling a quarter of an hour after all the -farina is in. When done, strain it into blancmange moulds, and set it on -ice to congeal. If for an invalid not allowed spice, boil it plain, and -when taken from the fire stir in a wine-glass of rose-water. If -rose-water is boiled with it from the beginning, the strength and flavor -will evaporate. - -_Farina Flummery._--Mix with a small pint of water a large pint of the -juice of ripe currants, or strawberries, or of stewed cranberries in -winter, made very sweet with white sugar. Boil the water and juice -together, and stir in gradually a quarter pound of farina, and then boil -it fifteen minutes longer. Afterwards transfer it to moulds, and set it -on ice till congealed. - -_Farina Gruel._--Have some water boiling on the fire, and when it boils -fast, sprinkle in sufficient farina to make it moderately thick. Then -sweeten it with white sugar. If permitted, stir in some white wine, and -nutmeg grated. - - -BEEF TEA.--Take a pound of fine fresh beefsteak cut from the round, -without any fat. Chop it into small bits, and season it with a level -salt-spoon of salt. Put it into a wide-mouthed bottle, cork it closely, -and set it into a kettle of cold water, which must reach to the neck of -the bottle. Let it boil steadily for three hours, by which time the -essence will be all extracted from the beef. Then remove the cork, and -strain the liquid into a bowl, and skim it. It can be made still more -conveniently in a _bain-marie_ or double kettle; an article useful for -many purposes, particular in cookery for an invalid. Mutton or veal tea -are made in the same manner. Also chicken tea, or essence of any sort of -poultry or game. - -_Chicken Panada._--Having skinned and cut up a fine full-grown chicken, -take the white meat from the breast and wings, and mince it small for -panada. The dark meat will do for chicken tea. Add to the panada a slice -of wheat bread crumbled and mixed in, and boil it in a _bain-marie_ with -the water outside; seasoning it (if permitted) with powdered mace or -nutmeg. - -_Sweet Panada._--Mix with a pint of water a glass of madeira or sherry; -a heaped table-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, half the yellow rind of -a lemon grated, and half the juice; and a half tea-spoonful of powdered -nutmeg or mace. Set the mixture over the fire, and as soon as it boils -add crumbled milk biscuit, or a rusk. Then give it another boil up. - - -BARLEY WATER.--Having washed clean two ounces of pearl barley, put it -into a sauce-pan with a quart of water, the grated rind and the juice of -a lemon, and two ounces of seeded raisins. Boil it slowly till the -liquid is reduced one half. Then strain it, and sweeten it, while warm, -with loaf sugar. - -_Gum Arabic Water._--Take an ounce of the best and cleanest gum arabic. -Put it into a pitcher, and pour on a pint of boiling water, and stir -while dissolving. When cool, squeeze in (if permitted) the juice of a -lemon, and add loaf sugar enough to make it pleasantly sweet. Gum arabic -water, alone, is sometimes given to a patient, whom it is expedient to -keep very low as a preventive to inflammation. - -_Tamarind Water._--This is a pleasant and cooling drink in fevers, -allowing half a pint of cold water to as many tamarinds as you can take -up with a table-spoon. Cover it, and let it stand for a few minutes. - -_Apple Water._--Take four fine large juicy apples, (pippins or -bellflowers,) core and pare them, and bake them side by side in a tin -pan. When well done and quite soft all through, put them into a pitcher -and fill up with warm water. Simmer them over the fire, and when quite -soft mash them; and, if necessary, add more water till they become a -thick liquid that can be drank. Sweeten well with loaf sugar, and if -permitted, add some lemon juice or rose-water. Drink it cool. - -_Egg Wine._--Break a nice fresh egg into a tumbler, and beat it till -smooth and thick. Add a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, and -stir in a glass of the best port wine. This, when permitted, is very -strengthening and cheering for an invalid, to take about the hour of -noon or earlier. When wine is not allowed, you may beat the egg into a -glass of new unskimmed milk. - - -WHEY.--Milk can be converted into a curd by the infusion of rennet -water, white wine, lemon juice, tamarind juice, or vinegar, stirred into -good milk, covered and set in a warm place till the curd has formed, and -has separated from the whey which remains beneath it. Take off the curd -carefully, breaking it as little as possible, and put it into a deep -dish. Pour the whey into a pitcher. It should look clear, and greenish -rather than white, and have none of the milk curd remaining about it. -Set the pitcher on ice. It is an excellent drink in fevers. When -approved, the curd may be eaten in a saucer with sugar. For rennet whey, -cut a piece of dried rennet about two inches square, and wipe all the -salt from the outside, but do not wash it. Soak the bit of rennet for -several hours (or all night) in a small tea-cup of lukewarm water. Then -pour the rennet water into the milk. For wine whey, boil a jill of -sherry in a pint of milk, without stirring it. - - -TAPIOCA.--Having washed in cold water three heaped table-spoonfuls of -tapioca; drain it, put it into a clean quart bowl, pour on water enough -to cover it well, and soak it four hours. Then pour on as much more -water, transfer the whole to a porcelain skillet, in the bottom of which -you have laid the yellow peel of a fresh lemon, pared so thin as to be -transparent, and boil the tapioca gently till it looks quite clear. Then -take out the lemon peel, and stir in sufficient loaf sugar to make it -very sweet. If approved, flavor it with some madeira or sherry, and some -grated nutmeg. Tapioca may be boiled in plain milk, with no seasoning -but the sugar to sweeten it. - -_Sago._--Pick and wash clean, in two cold waters, a half pint of sago. -Put it into a porcelain skillet, with the yellow rind of a lemon pared -transparent. Pour on it a quart of water, and let it all soak for two -hours. Then set it over the fire, and boil it, gently, till the lemon is -all to pieces and nearly dissolved, and the sago looks clear. Take out -the lemon peel, and stir in, if permitted, some sherry wine, sugar, and -grated nutmeg, and give it another boil. - -If the above seasoning is not allowed, boil the sago in milk only, or -water only, till the liquid becomes thick and like a jelly. - -_Sago Pudding for an invalid._--Boil three table-spoonfuls of _soaked_ -sago in a pint of milk till quite soft. Add gradually three ounces of -white sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat three eggs till thick and -smooth, and stir them by degrees into the sago and milk. Grate in some -nutmeg, and bake the pudding in a deep dish. Tapioca pudding is made in -the same manner. - - -SWEETBREADS FOR INVALIDS.--Cut open two fine fresh sweetbreads, and lay -them in warm water till all the blood is discharged. Then transfer them -to a pan of cold water to blanch or whiten. Stew them in the strained -liquid of fresh oysters, till quite tender. When done, take out the -sweetbreads, remove the gristle or pipe, and serve them up warm, having -laid in the bottom of the dish a slice of nice toast that has been -dipped for a minute in hot water. If permitted, the oysters may be -cooked with the sweetbread, first removing the hard part. - - -STEWED SMELTS.--Smelts are considered a delicate and nutritious fish for -invalids. They are in season in winter, and early in the spring. Choose -them as large as you can find them. Having drawn and cleaned them, cut -off their heads and tails. Put sufficient water to cover them in a small -stew-pan, adding a very little powdered white sugar, and a few small -sprigs of parsley, or sweet marjoram. When the water boils lay in the -fish, and simmer them five minutes. Then stir in a very little arrow -root, mixed with a few drops of cold water, and let it stew ten minutes -longer. Serve up the stew in a small deep dish with a cover, and eat -with it some very light bread-roll. It will be a pleasant change from -the usual broths and infusions prepared for the sick. - -_A Molasses Supper._--Make a thick slice of very nice toast, evenly -browned on both sides, but not the least burnt. Lay it in a pint bowl, -and pour over it a small half pint of the best _West India_ molasses, -having stirred into the molasses a heaped table-spoonful of ground -ginger. Mix the molasses with half a pint of hot water, and pour the -whole over the toast. Cover it with a plate for a few minutes, and eat -it while warm, previous to going to bed. This is a wholesome -strengthening palatable supper for an invalid, (as we know by -experience) and may be continued as long as the patient continues to -like it. It is always a good winter supper for children. The ginger must -on no account be omitted. If the molasses has turned a little sour, stir -in a salt-spoonful of soda. - -To prevent a jug of molasses from running over when kept in a warm -place, pour out a little into another vessel, and leave the molasses jug -uncorked for two days. Then cork it tightly. - - - - -MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. - - -TEA.--No metal (not even silver,) is good for tea-pots. All tea should -be made in china or queensware. Wedgewood (whether black or white) -imbibes much of the essence of the tea, and from constant use soon -becomes unpleasant. Britannia ware is exceedingly unwholesome for any -sort of cooking, as one fourth of the composition is copper. Block tin -for a common tea-pot is less objectionable, and much cheaper. All -tea-pots should, after using, be thoroughly emptied of the old leaves, -and washed very clean in warm water, and set open in the sun and air for -several hours. To make good tea, the tea itself, whether black or green, -must be of excellent quality. There is no economy in buying that which -is low-priced. Green tea, if fresh and good, and not adulterated will -look green in the cup, and have a fragrant odor. If it draws red, or -brown, or blackish, it is old or mixed with something wrong. Begin to -make your tea about a quarter of an hour before it is wanted. Scald the -tea-pot (twice over) with boiling water. Then put in the tea, allowing -three heaping table-spoonfuls to each person, and a pint of water, -actually boiling, when put in. Cover it closely with the lid, and set it -by the fire for ten or fifteen minutes to infuse. After the first cups -have gone round, put some fresh tea into the pot, and pour on it some -more boiling water, that the second cups may be as strong as the first, -having time to infuse. Weak tea for company is very mean. For those that -like it so, have a small pot of water on the server. If the water is not -boiling fast when poured on the tea, and is beginning to cool, the tea -will be flat and insipid, and the leaves will float on the surface of -the cups. There is then no remedy but to make some fresh. - - -COFFEE.--To drink coffee in perfection, a sufficient quantity for -breakfast should be roasted every morning, and ground hot, as it loses -much of its strength by keeping even for a few hours. The best coffee -roasters are iron cylinders, (standing on feet) with a door in one side, -and a handle that turns the cylinder round towards the fire or from it, -that the coffee may be equally done throughout. It must be roasted a -bright brown color, and on no account black or burnt. When about half -done, put in bits of fresh butter, allowing a table-spoonful to a pound -of coffee. Previous to roasting pick the coffee carefully, throwing away -the defective grains, and the stones or sand. Coffee should be ground -while warm in a mill kept solely for that purpose, and fastened up -against the kitchen wall. - -For boiled coffee allow four ounces of ground coffee (or a quarter of a -pound) to a quart of water. When the water boils, stir in the coffee. -Give it one hard boil up. Then set it farther from the fire, and simmer -it for ten minutes, adding the white of an egg, (including the egg -shell,) or a small strip of isinglass. Pour out a large cup of the -coffee, and then (holding it high above the coffee-pot,) pour it back -again. Repeat this till wanted, and then set the coffee-pot beside the -fire, (but not over it.) For company, allow six ounces of coffee to a -quart of water. Keep the lid always on, but if when boiling hard it -rises and seems inclined to run over, remove it instantly from the fire -and set it back. Cream is indispensable to first-rate coffee; if not to -be obtained sweet, substitute rich milk boiling hot. On no consideration -fill up the coffee-pot with water. A percolator (to be had at the best -tin stores) makes excellent coffee without boiling, if properly managed. - - -CHOCOLATE.--There is no plain chocolate better than Baker's prepared -cacao, and none has so much of the true chocolate flavor. The foreign -chocolate is generally mixed with sugar, spice, and milk. It cannot be -made thick and strong, and therefore to many tastes is not agreeable. To -make a pint (or two large cupfuls of chocolate,) scrape down two ounces -on a plate, and moisten the chocolate with a jill of water, rubbing it -on the plate till quite smooth. Then boil it five minutes, and add a -small pint of water. When it has been well stirred with a wooden spoon, -and has come again to a boil, serve it as hot as possible, accompanied -by a saucer of fine loaf sugar, and a small jug of rich hot cream and a -plate of nice dry toast, or some milk biscuits or sponge cake. Milled -chocolate is made with rich unskimmed milk instead of water. The -chocolate mill is a deep pot, belonging to which is a stick with a broad -wheel-shaped bottom, the other end coming up through a hole in the lid. -Take this between your hands, and turn it round fast till the chocolate -is finely frothed. Then transfer it to large cups. Chocolate, after it -becomes cold, is unfit to drink. But if made with milk, you can convert -what is left into a custard or pudding, with the addition of more sugar -and some beaten egg. The low-priced chocolate is both unpalatable and -unwholesome, being adulterated with animal fat or lard, and made with -_old_ cacao beans. - - -MILK TOAST.--To a pint of nice rich milk allow a quarter of a pound of -excellent _fresh_ butter. Boil the milk, and as soon as it boils take it -off, and stir in the butter cut into pieces. When the butter has melted, -give it another boil up Have ready a deep plate with four rather thick -slices of bread, nicely and evenly toasted on both sides. Pour the milk -hot over the toast, and keep it covered till it goes to the breakfast -table. Send a spoon with it. Bread should always be toasted by a -long-handled fork, such as are made for the purpose. They cost but -twenty-five cents, and no kitchen should be without one. - - -BUTTERED TOAST.--Cut even slices of bread all of the same thickness, and -pare off the whole of the crust. With a long-handled toasting fork toast -it evenly on both sides, taking care that no part of it is burnt or -blackened. Butter the slices hot, as you take them off the fork, (using -none but nice fresh butter) and lay them evenly on a heated plate. Cover -them till they go to table. - -All toast prepared for cookery, (to lay in the bottom of dishes,) should -have the crust pared off, and be dipped in hot water after toasting. - - -RASPBERRY VINEGAR.--Take a gallon of fine ripe raspberries. Put them -into a large deep earthen pan, and mash them well with a wooden beetle. -Then pour them with all their juice into a large and very clean linen -bag, and squeeze and press out their liquid into a vessel beneath. -Measure it, and to each pint of juice allow half a pint of the best and -clearest cider vinegar, and half a pound of fine loaf sugar, powdered. -First mix the juice and the vinegar, and give them a boil in a porcelain -kettle. Then stir in the sugar, gradually, adding to every two pounds -of sugar a beaten white of egg. Boil and skim till the scum ceases to -rise. When it is done, bottle it cold, cork it tightly, and seal the -corks. To use it, pour out half a tumbler of raspberry vinegar, and fill -up with ice water. It is a pleasant and cooling beverage in warm -weather, and for invalids who are feverish. Mixed with hot water, and -taken at bed-time, it is good for a cold. - -_Strawberry Vinegar_--Is made in the above manner, carefully hulling -them. The strawberries must be of the finest kind, and fully ripe. These -vinegars are made with much less trouble than the usual way; and are -quite as good, if not better. - - -MACARONI.--In buying macaroni, choose that of a large pipe; see that it -is clean and white and that it has not been touched by insects. Half a -pound makes one dish. If _soaked_ before boiling it is apt to dissolve -or go to pieces, but wash and drain it through cold water in a sieve. -Have over the fire a large pan of boiling water, in which has been -melted a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg. If boiled steadily, -it will be quite tender in less than an hour; but do not boil it so long -that the pipes break up and lose their shape. Having drained it well -through a clean sieve, transfer it to a deep dish, dividing it into four -layers, having first cut it into even lengths of two or three inches. -Between the layers place on it seasoning of grated cheese of the very -best quality, and bits of fresh butter, with some powdered mace. On the -top layer, add to the covering of cheese and butter sufficient -bread-crumbs to form a slight crust all over the surface. Brown it with -a salamander or a red hot shovel. Or (omitting the cheese) you may dress -it with rich gravy of roast meat. - -_For Sweet Macaroni._--Having boiled it in milk instead of water, drain -it, and mix with it powdered mace and nutmeg, with butter, sugar, and -rose or peach-water. Macaroni (like vermicelli) has in itself no taste, -but is only made palatable by the manner of dressing it. Good soup is -rather weakened than improved by the addition of macaroni. - - -COMMON OMELET.--Beat five eggs till very light and thick. Stir gradually -into the pan of eggs four table-spoonfuls of sifted flour. Thin the -batter with a large tea-cup of milk. Take a yeast powder; dissolve the -soda (from the blue paper) in a small quantity of tepid or lukewarm -water, and stir it into the batter. In another cup melt the tartaric -acid, (from the white paper;) stir that into the mixture, and stir the -whole very hard. Have ready in a frying-pan a large portion of lard, -boiling hot. Put in the omelet mixture, and fry it well. When one side -is done turn it, and fry the other. To flavor this omelet, mix gradually -into the batter either grated ham or smoked tongue; minced oysters; -minced onion; mixed with sweet marjoram, or else some mushrooms chopped -very fine. - -_For a Sweet Omelet_, add to the above batter powdered sugar, nutmeg, -mace, and powdered cinnamon. - -The custom is now to dish omelets without folding them over, it being -found that folding renders them heavy. Spread them out at full length on -a very hot dish. The batter for omelets should always be made in -sufficient quantity to allow them very thick. - -There is no use in attempting to flavor an omelet, or any thing else, -with marmalade or lemon, if you put in soda. The alkalies destroy the -taste of every sort of fruit. - - -A PLAIN POTATO PUDDING.--Having pared a pound of fine large potatos, put -them into a pot, cover them well with cold water, and boil them gently -till tender all through. When done, lay each potato (one at a time,) in -a clean warm napkin, and press and wring it till all the moisture is -squeezed out, and the potato becomes a round, dry lump. Mince as fine as -possible a quarter of a pound of fresh beef suet, (divested of skin, and -strings.) Crumble the potato, and mix it well with the suet, adding a -small salt-spoon of salt. Add sufficient milk to make a thick batter, -and beat it well. Dip a strong square cloth in hot water, shake it out, -and dredge it well with flour. Tie the pudding in, leaving room for it -to swell, and put it into a large pot of hot water and boil it steady -for an hour. This is a good and economical family pudding. - - -ELLEN CLARK'S PUDDING.--Slice, rather thick, some fresh bread. Pare off -all the crust. Butter the bread on both sides, and lay it in a deep -dish. Fill up with molasses very profusely, having first seasoned the -molasses with ginger, ground cinnamon, and powdered mace or nutmeg. It -will be much improved by adding the grated yellow rind and the juice of -a large lemon or orange. Bake it till brown all over the top, and till -the bread and butter has absorbed the molasses; taking care not to let -it burn. - - -ARROW-ROOT BISCUIT.--Mix in a pan half a pint of arrow-root, and half a -pint of sifted wheat flour. Cut up a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -and rub it into the pan of flour, crumbling the bits of butter so small -as to be scarcely visible. Mix a quarter of a pound of powdered white -sugar, and wet it with a beaten egg. Add gradually a very little cream, -just enough to make it into a stiff dough. Flavor it with the grated -yellow rind and juice of a lemon, and half a nutmeg grated. Roll out the -dough into thin sheets, and cut it out into biscuits with the edge of a -tumbler. Prick every biscuit all over with a fork. Lay them in square -pans slightly floured, and bake them immediately. They will be improved -by adding (at the last of the mixture) a table-spoonful of the best -rose-water. If rose-water is put into cakes _early_ in the mixing, much -of its strength will evaporate before baking. It should always be -deferred to the last. These are very nice tea biscuits. - - -ONTARIO CAKE.--Take a pint and a half (or three large breakfast cups,) -of sifted flour, and the same quantity of powdered white sugar, and half -a pint of milk; a quarter of a pint or half a cup of the best fresh -butter, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a large lemon. Have -ready four well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh -yeast. - -Cut up the butter into the pan of flour. Add the milk and sugar -gradually, and then the beaten egg, and then the lemon; next the yeast. -Stir the whole very well, and set it to rise in a buttered pan. Place it -near the fire, and cover it with a clean flannel or a double cloth. When -it has risen and is quite light, and is cracked all over the surface, -transfer it to a square baking pan, put it immediately into the oven, -and bake it well. When cool, either ice it or sift white sugar over it, -and cut it into squares. Or, you may bake it in a round loaf, or in -small round cakes. - - -NEW-YEAR'S CAKE.--Stir together a pound of nice fresh butter, and a -pound of powdered white sugar, till they become a light thick cream. -Then stir in, gradually, three pounds of sifted flour. Add, by degrees, -a tea-spoonful of soda dissolved in a small tea-cup of milk, and then a -half salt-spoonful of tartaric acid, melted in a large table-spoonful of -warm water. Then mix in, gradually, three table-spoonfuls of fine -carraway seeds. Roll out the dough into sheets half an inch thick, and -cut it with a jagging iron into oval or oblong cakes, pricked with a -fork. Bake them immediately in shallow iron pans, slightly greased with -fresh butter. The bakers in New York ornament these cakes, with devices -or pictures raised by a wooden stamp. They are good plain cakes for -children. - - -GOOD YEAST.--Take two handfuls of hops. The best hops have a fresh light -green color, and a pleasant, lively smell. Pour on them two quarts of -boiling water, and let them boil five minutes after they have come to a -boil; not longer, for it makes them bitter. Then strain the liquid into -a pan, and add a table-spoonful of brown sugar and one of salt. When -lukewarm, stir in flour enough to make a thick batter. Add a jill and a -half of fresh baker's yeast. Set it in a warm place till it begins to -ferment; then keep it in the cellar well corked. - -This yeast will continue good two weeks. When you open the jug to take -out some yeast, put in always a table-spoonful of flour before you cork -it up again. - -A stone jug or pitcher is a good vessel for yeast. Wash it very clean in -hot water, always before you put in fresh yeast, and then rinse the jug -with water in which a spoonful of pearlash has been melted, letting the -pearlash water remain in it five or six minutes, and shaking it round -hard. Then rinse it with plain cold water. - -All vessels that have contained acids should have pearlash or soda in -the rinsing water, and then be finished with plain water. - -Never clean a bottle by rinsing it with shot. The lead is poisonous, and -has caused death. Some bits of raw potato chopped, and put in the water, -will clean the inside of bottles or jugs, and brighten decanters. - - -YEAST POWDERS.--Get two ounces of bicarbonate of soda, and one ounce of -tartaric acid. Divide the soda into equal portions, about a level -tea-spoonful in each, and the tartaric acid into level salt-spoonfuls. -By _level_ we mean that the article is not to be heaped in the least, -not rising above the edge of the spoon. Cut some papers of regular and -sufficient size, and fold them nicely. Put the soda into white papers, -and the tartaric acid into blue papers. Place an equal number of each in -a little square or oblong box, standing up the papers on their folded -edges. Dissolve them in two separate cups, in as much tepid water as -will cover the powder. They must be entirely melted before using. Stir -in the soda at the beginning, and the tartaric acid at the conclusion of -the batter or cake mixture. - -We do not approve of the introduction of these substances into cakes. -They give a sort of factitious lightness very different from that -honestly produced by a liberal allowance of egg and butter, genuine -yeast, and good beating and stirring--but they destroy the taste of the -seasoning, and are certain destruction to the taste of lemon, orange, -strawberry, pine-apple, and every kind of fruit flavoring. The justly -celebrated Mrs. Goodfellow never used any of them in her school, and the -articles made there by her pupils, (of whom the author was one) were -such as no money can purchase in the present times. Any confectioner who -would _faithfully_ revive them could make a fortune by doing so. - -The present introduction of hartshorn into bread and cakes is an -abomination, rendering the articles equally unpalatable and unwholesome. -Cannot the use of hartshorn in food be put down? Which of our _American_ -doctors will write a book on "culinary poisons." - - -VINEGAR.--Mix together in a clean keg three gallons of clear rain water, -(that has been caught in a clean tub without running over the roof of a -house,) one quart of _West India_ molasses, and one pint of baker's -yeast. Cover it, and set it in a warm place where it will be exposed to -the summer sun. Remember to shake the cask every day. In three months it -will be excellent vinegar. Then transfer it to stone jugs, and keep it -closely corked. Begin it in May. - -So much of the vinegar sold in stores is concocted of pernicious drugs, -that we recommend all families to make their own, or to buy it from a -cider farmer. Good cider, set in the sun, will after a while become good -vinegar. - -What is shamefully called the best white wine vinegar is frequently a -slow poison, as may be known by its action upon oysters, pickles, &c. It -is quite clear and well to look at. Its taste is very sharp and pungent, -as to overpower and render every thing that is with it painfully sour, -and it has a singular and disagreeable smell when boiling. Oysters -cooked with this vinegar go immediately into rags, and are soon entirely -eaten up, or dissolved into a thin whitish liquid, fit for nothing but -to throw away. - -Pickles the same. A punishment should be provided by law for persons who -manufacture and sell these deleterious compounds, of which we have now -so many, that it would indeed be well if we could make at home, as far -as possible, every thing we eat and drink. - - -PINK CHAMPAGNE--(_Domestic._)--Pick from the stems three quarts of fine -ripe red currants, and mix with them three quarts of ripe white -currants. Bruise them all. Put nine pounds of loaf sugar to melt in -three gallons of very clear soft water. Boil the water and sugar -together for half an hour, skimming carefully, and pour the liquid -boiling hot over the currants. When it is nearly cold, add a small -tea-cupful of excellent strong fresh yeast. Let it ferment for two days, -and then strain it into a small cask through a very clean hair sieve. -Put into the cask half an ounce of finely-chipped isinglass. Have rather -more liquor than will fill the cask at first, and keep it to fill up as -it works over. In about a fortnight bung it up. Let it remain in the -cask till April. Then transfer it to bottles, (putting into each a lump -of double-refined loaf sugar,) and letting them remain one day uncorked. -Then cork and wire them. They must stand upright in the cellar; but when -likely to be wanted, lay a few of them on their sides for a week. - - -SHERRY COBBLER.--Lay in the bottom of a large tumbler, two -table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and squeeze over it (through a -strainer) the juice of a large lemon that has been softened by rolling -under your hand. Then half fill the tumbler with ice, broken very small. -Add a large glass of very good sherry wine. Take another tumbler, and -pour the liquid back and forward from glass to glass, till completely -mixed without stirring. Sip it through a clean straw, or one of the -tubes made on purpose. - - -MINT JULEP.--Cut two or three round slices from a fine ripe pine-apple -that has been pared; and take out the core or hard part from the centre -of each slice. A still better way is to split down the pine-apple into -four pieces, and grate two of the quarters with a coarse grater, -standing it upright while doing so. Put it into a large tumbler, and -cover the fruit with two or three heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered -loaf sugar. Add a large glass of the best brandy, and pour on cold water -till the tumbler is two-thirds full. Then put in a thick layer of finely -broken ice, till it almost reaches the top. Finish by sticking in a full -bunch of fresh green mint in handsome sprigs, that rise far above one -side of the tumbler; and at the other side place a clean straw, or one -of the tubes used for the same purpose. - - -CAROLINA PUNCH.--Mix together a tumbler of peach brandy and a tumbler of -water, the juice of two lemons, the yellow rinds of four, pared to -transparent thinness, and four large juicy free-stone peaches cut in -half, and the kernels of their stones blanched and broken up. If you -cannot obtain peaches, quarter and grate down a ripe pine-apple. Let all -these ingredients infuse with a quart of Jamaica spirits in a bowl for -two days before the punch is wanted. Keep it carefully covered with a -cloth. Then pour on sufficient cold water to make the punch of the -desired strength; and strain the liquid into another bowl, and put in a -large lump of ice. Serve it out in small glasses. - - -NECTAR.--Take two pounds of _the best_ raisins, seeded and chopped; the -grated yellow rind and the juice of four fine lemons, and two pounds of -loaf sugar, powdered. Put the sugar into a large porcelain kettle, and -melt it in a gallon of water. Boil and skim it for half an hour, and -while it is boiling hard, put in by degrees the raisins and lemons. -Continue the boiling about ten minutes. Put the mixture into a stoneware -crock, and cover it closely. Let it stand three days, stirring it down -to the bottom twice every day. Then strain it through a linen bag, and -bottle it, sealing the corks. It will be fit for use in a fortnight. -Take it in wine-glasses, with a bit of ice in each. This is a nice -temperance drink. - - -CHOCOLATE CARAMEL.--Take half a pint of rich milk, and put it to boil in -a porcelain kettle; scrape down a square and a half of Baker's -chocolate, put it into a very clean tin cup, and set on the top of a -stove till it becomes soft. Let the milk boil up _twice_. Then add, -gradually, the chocolate, and stir both over the fire till thoroughly -mixed and free from lumps. Stir in a half pint of the best white sugar -powdered, and half a jill (or four large table-spoonfuls,) of molasses. -Let the whole boil fast and constantly (so as to bubble,) for at least -one hour or more, till it is nearly as stiff as good mush. When all is -done add a small tea-spoonful of essence of vanilla, and transfer the -mixture to shallow tin pans, slightly greased with very nice sweet oil. -Set it on ice, or in a very cool place, and while yet soft mark it -deeply in squares with a very sharp knife. When quite hard, cut the -squares apart. If it does not harden well it has not been boiled long -enough, or fast enough. - - -EGGS TO BOIL.--The water must be boiling fast when the eggs are put in. -First wipe them clean all over, with a wet cloth. It is true that the -shells are never eaten, but still, if brought to table dirty and -discolored, they look slovenly, disgusting, and vulgar, such as are -never seen in good houses. Put them into water that is boiling fast; and -if desired very soft, four minutes will be sufficient. Six or eight -minutes will barely set the whites and yolks, and ten or twelve minutes -(in water that is really boiling,) will render them hard enough for -salad. In the egg-boilers that are set on the table no egg will ever -boil hard, as the water cools too soon. A _stale_ egg never boils hard. - -Except in the spring, and late in the winter, there is often much -difficulty in obtaining good eggs, unless you have fowls of your own. If -an egg is really fresh, when held up against the light, the yolk looks -round and compact and the white clear and transparent; you may then -trust it. But if the yolk is thick, broken, and mixed among the white, -and the white is cloudy and muddled, it is certainly bad, and should be -thrown away. When tried in a pan of cold water the freshest will sink, -and the stale ones float on the surface. It requires strong brine to -bear up a good egg. Eggs may be preserved for keeping a few months, by -putting every one in fast boiling water for _one minute_. Then grease -them all over the outside with good melted fat, and wedge down close -together (layer above layer,) in a box of powdered charcoal. This -preserves them for a sea voyage of several weeks. The charcoal box must -be kept closely covered, and closed immediately whenever opened. Pack -the eggs with the small end downwards. - - -POACHED EGGS.--See that the eggs are quite fresh. Pour from a kettle of -boiling water enough to fill a broad shallow stew-pan. Break the eggs -into a saucer, (one at a time,) slip them carefully into the hot water, -and let them stand in it till the whites are set. Then put the pan over -a moderate fire; and, as soon as the water boils again, the eggs are -ready. The whites should be firm, and the yolks should appear in the -centre looking yellow through a thin transparent coating of the white. -Take them out carefully (one by one,) with an egg-slice. Have ready, for -each egg, a nice slice of toast of a light brown or yellow all over. -Trim off all the crust, and dip the toast for a minute in hot water. -Then butter it _slightly_ with fresh butter. Trim off neatly the ragged -and discolored white from the edge of each egg. Lay a poached egg in the -middle of every toast, and serve them up warm. - -Instead of toast, you may lay beneath every egg a thin slice of ham, -that has been soaked, and nicely broiled and trimmed. Or, large thin -slices from the breast of a cold roast turkey, or cold fillet of roast -pork or veal. These are nice breakfast dishes. - -_Scrambled Eggs._--Make a mixture as for an omelet, but instead of -frying put it into a sauce-pan, and when it has boiled five minutes take -it off, and chop and mix all the ingredients into confusion. Serve it up -hot in a deep dish. It is eaten at breakfast, and is by many preferred -to a fried omelet. You may season it with grated ham, tongue, or sweet -herbs. - - -EGG-NOGG.--Beat, till very light and thick, the yolks only of six eggs. -Stir the eggs, gradually, into a quart of rich unskimmed milk, and add -half a pound of powdered loaf sugar, a half pint of brandy, and a grated -nutmeg. Next beat three whites of the eggs by themselves, and stir them -quickly into the mixture. Divide it into two pitchers, and pour it back -and forward from one pitcher to the other till it has a fine froth. Then -serve it in a large china bowl, with a silver ladle in it, and -distribute it in glasses with handles. - -_To Beat Eggs._--For beating eggs have a broad shallow earthen pan. If -beaten in tin, the coldness of the metal retards their lightness; for -the same reason, hickory rods are better than tin wire. Beat with a -short quick stroke, holding the egg rods in your right hand close to -your side, and do not exert your elbow, or use your arm violently with a -hard sweeping stroke; of this there is no necessity. If beaten in a -proper manner, (moving your hand _only_ at the wrist) the eggs will be -light long before you are fatigued. But you must continue beating till -after the froth has subsided, and the pan of eggs presents a smooth -thick surface, like a nice boiled custard. White of egg is done if it -stands stiff alone, and will not fall from the beater when held upon it. - -Butter and sugar should always be stirred with a strong hickory spaddle, -which resembles a short mush stick, rather broad and flattened at one -end. - - -BRAN MUFFINS.--Take three quarts of bran, (unbolted wheat flour) and -sift it into a large pan. Warm three half pints of rich milk, mixing -with it half a common tumbler of _West India_ molasses. Cut up in the -warm milk and molasses two ounces or two large heaped table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter, and stir it about till well mixed all through. Then stir -all the liquid into the flour. Beat in a shallow pan three eggs till -very thick and light, and then stir them gradually into the pan of -flour, &c. Lastly, add two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh yeast. Cover -the mixture and set it to rise. When risen very light heat a griddle on -the oven of a stove, set muffin rings upon it, fill the rings nearly to -the top, and bake the muffins. Send them to table hot, pull them open -with your fingers, and butter them. They will be much liked if properly -made and baked. - - -COTTAGE CHEESE.--This is a good way of using up a pan of milk that is -found to be turning sour. Or you may turn it, on purpose, by stirring in -a spoonful of cider vinegar. Having covered it, set it in a warm place -till it becomes a curd. Then pour off the liquid, and tie up the curd in -a clean linen bag with a pointed end, and set a bowl under it to catch -the droppings; but do not squeeze it. After it has drained ten or twelve -hours, transfer the curd to a deep dish, enrich it with some cream, and -press and chop it with a large spoon till it is a soft mass; adding, as -you proceed, an ounce or more of nice fresh butter. Then set it on ice -till tea-time. - - -FRENCH HAM PIE.--Having soaked, boiled, and skinned a small ham of the -best quality, and taken out the bone, trim it into a handsome oval -shape. Of the trimmings make a rich gravy by stewing them in a sauce-pan -with a little water, and four pigs feet, (split up.) Have ready a -plentiful sufficiency of nice forcemeat made of cold roast chicken or -veal, minced suet, and grated bread-crumbs, butter, minced sweet -marjoram or tarragon, and some hard-boiled yolk of egg crumbled. Have -ready, prepared, a very nice puff paste; line with it the bottom and -sides of a large deep dish, and lay in it the oval ham, filling up at -the corners and all round with the forcemeat, and spreading a layer of -it on the top. Pour on gravy to moisten the whole, and put on the paste -intended for the lid. Notch the edges handsomely, and stick a flower or -tulip of paste in the cross slit at the top, and place a wreath of paste -leaves all round. Bake it light brown, and eat it warm or cold. It is a -fine dish for a dinner or supper party, or for a handsome luncheon or -breakfast. - -_A Tongue Pie_--Is made in a similar manner of a boiled smoked tongue, -peeled and trimmed, and filled in with forcemeat. For a large company -have _two_ tongue pies, as it will be much liked, if made as above. - - -FIG PUDDING.--Take a pint of very ripe figs, (peeled,) cut them up and -mash them smooth with the grated yellow rind of a large ripe lemon or -orange, and the juice of two. Mix together a large spoonful of fresh -butter, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and stir the whole very hard. -Bake it in a deep dish, and eat it fresh, but not warm. Grate sugar over -the surface. When _ripe_ figs can be obtained, this pudding is much -liked. - - -POKE PLANT.--Early in the spring, the young green stalks of the -pokeberry plant, (when they are still mild and tender, and have not yet -acquired a reddish tinge or a strong unpleasant taste,) are generally -much liked as a vegetable, and are by many persons considered equal to -asparagus. They are brought in bundles to Philadelphia market. Wash and -drain them, and put them on to boil in a pot of cold water. When _quite -tender_ all through they are done. Dish them in the manner of asparagus, -laid on a toast dipped for a minute in hot water, and then buttered. - -You may pour a very little drawn or melted butter over the poke. - - -RHUBARB TARTS.--Take large fresh stalks of the rapontica plant, such as -are full-grown and reddish. Peel off the thin skin, and cut them into -bits all of the same size, either one inch or two inches long. Wash them -in cold water through a cullender, (but do not drain them much,) and put -them into a stew-pan without any more water. Mix with them plenty of -good sugar, in the proportion of half a pound of sugar to a pint of -cut-up rhubarb stalks. Cover it, and stew it slowly till quite soft. -Then mash it into a smooth mass. Have some puff-paste shells baked -empty; and when cool, fill them to the top, and grate nutmeg and -powdered sugar thickly over them. The juice and grated yellow rind of a -lemon (added when the rhubarb is half stewed,) will be a pleasant -flavoring. This is sometimes called "spring-fruit" and "pie-plant." It -comes earlier, but is by no means so good as gooseberries. We do not -think it worth preserving, or making into a sweetmeat. - - -VOL-AU-VENT.--Have ready a large quantity of the best and lightest puff -paste. Roll it an inch thick, and then cut it neatly into shapes, either -square or circular. Bake every one separately on a flat tin pan, cutting -a round hole in the centre of each, and fitting in pieces of stale bread -to keep the holes open while baking. The cakes of paste should diminish -in size as they ascend to the top, but the holes should all be of -exactly the same dimensions. The lower cake, which goes at the bottom, -should be solid and not perforated at all. The small cake which finishes -the top of the pyramid must also be left solid, for a lid. When all the -cakes are baked and risen high, (as good puff-paste always does) take -them carefully off the baking plates; remove the bread that has kept the -centres open and in shape; brush over every cake, separately, with -beaten white of egg, and pile one upon another nicely and evenly so as -to form a pyramid. Have ready a very nice stew of oysters or game cut -small, and cooked with cream, &c. Fill the pyramid with this, and then -put on the top or lid, which may terminate in a flower of baked paste. - -_A Sweet Vol-au-Vent_--May be filled with small preserves, or with ripe -strawberries or raspberries, made very sweet. Vol-au-vents are for -dinner, or supper parties. The paste should be peculiarly light. The -name _Vol-au-vent_ signifies, in French, something that will fly away in -the wind; which, however, it never does. - - -A SOUFFLÉ PUDDING.--Take eight rusks, or soft sugar-biscuits, or plain -buns. Lay them in a large deep dish, and pour on a pint of milk, -sufficient to soak them thoroughly. Cover the dish, and let them stand -undisturbed for about an hour and a half before dinner. In the mean -time, boil half a pint of milk in a small sauce-pan with a handful of -bitter almonds or peach kernels broken small, or a small bunch of fresh -peach-leaves, with two large sticks of cinnamon, broken up. Boil this -milk slowly, (keeping it covered,) and when it tastes strongly of the -flavoring articles, strain it, and set it away to cool. When cold, mix -it into another pint of milk, and stir in a quarter of a pound of -powdered loaf sugar. Beat eight eggs very light, and add them gradually -to the milk, so as to make a rich custard. After dinner has commenced, -beat and stir the soaked rusk very hard till it becomes a smooth mass, -and then, by degrees, add to it the custard. Stir the whole till -thoroughly amalgamated. Set the dish into a brisk oven, and bake the -pudding rather more than ten minutes. The yeast, &c., in the rusk, will -cause it to puff up very light. When done, send it to table warm, with -white sugar sifted over it. You may serve up with it as sauce sweetened -thick cream flavored with rose-water, and grated nutmeg, or powdered -loaf sugar and fresh butter stirred together in equal portions, and -seasoned with lemon or nutmeg. - - -ICED PLUM PUDDING.--Take two dozen sweet and half a dozen bitter -almonds. Blanch them in scalding water, and then throw them into a bowl -of cold water. Pound them one at a time in a mortar, till they become a -smooth paste, free from the smallest lumps. As you proceed, add -frequently a few drops of rose-water or lemon juice to make them light, -and prevent their oiling. Seed and cut in half a quarter of a pound of -the best bloom raisins. Mix with them a quarter of a pound of Zante -currants, picked, washed, and dried; and add to the raisins and currants -three ounces of citron, chopped. Mix the citron with the raisins and -currants, and dredge them all with flour to prevent their sinking or -clodding. Take a half pint of very rich milk; split a vanilla bean, and -cut it into pieces two or three inches long, and boil it in the milk -till the flavor of the vanilla is well extracted; then strain it out, -and mix the vanilla milk with a pint of rich cream, and stir in, -gradually, a half pound of powdered loaf sugar, and a nutmeg grated. -Then add the pounded almonds, and a large wine-glass of either -marasquino, noyau, curaçoa, or the very best brandy. Beat, in a shallow -pan, the yolks of eight eggs till very light, thick, and smooth, and -stir them gradually into the mixture. Simmer it over the fire, (stirring -it all the time,) but take it off just as it is about to come to a boil, -otherwise it will curdle. Then, while the mixture is hot, stir in the -raisins, currants, and citron. Set it to cool, and then add a large -tea-cupful of preserved strawberries or raspberries, half a dozen -preserved apricots or peaches; half a dozen preserved green limes; and -any other very nice and delicate sweetmeats. Then whip to a stiff froth -another pint of cream, and add it lightly to the mixture. Put the whole -into a large melon-mould that opens in the middle, and freeze it in the -usual way. It will take four hours to freeze it well. Do not turn it out -till just before it is wanted. Then send it to table on a glass dish. It -will be found delicious. Iced puddings are now considered indispensable -on fashionable supper tables or at dinner parties. There is no flour in -this pudding. The freezing will keep it together. - - -RENNETS.--Milk turned into a curd with wine is by no means so good as -that which is done with rennet-water alone. The curd and whey do not -separate so completely; the curd is less firm, and the whey less clear; -the latter being thick and white, instead of thin and greenish, as it -ought to be. Neither is it so light and wholesome as when turned with -rennet. - -Rennets of the best quality can be had at all seasons in the -Philadelphia market; particularly in the lower part, called the Jersey -market. They are sold at twelve, eighteen, or twenty-five cents, -according to their size, and will keep a year or two; but have most -strength when fresh. You may prepare excellent rennets yourself at a -very trifling expense, by previously bespeaking them of a veal butcher; -a rennet being the stomach of a calf. Its form is a bag. As soon as you -get the rennet, empty out all its contents, and wipe it very clean, -inside and out; then rince it with cold water, but do not wash it much, -as washing will weaken its power of turning milk into curd. When you -have made it quite clean, lay the rennet in a broad pan, strew it over -on both sides with plenty of fine salt; cover it, and let it rest five -days. When you take it out of the pan, do not wipe or wash it, for it -must be stretched and dried with the salt on. For this purpose hold it -open like a bag, and slip within it a long, thick, smooth rod, bent into -the form of a large loop wide at the top, and so narrow at the bottom as -to meet together. Stretch the rennet tightly and smoothly over this bent -rod, on which it will be double, and when you have brought the two ends -of the rod together at the bottom, and tied them fast, the form will -somewhat resemble that of a boy's kite. Hang it up in a dry place, and -cut out a bit as you want it. A piece about two inches square will turn -one quart of milk; a piece of four inches, two quarts. Having first -washed off all the salt in several cold waters, and wiped the bit of -rennet dry, pour on it sufficient _lukewarm_ water to cover it well. Let -it stand several hours; then pour the rennet-water into the milk you -intend for the curd, and set it in a warm place. When the curd is -entirely formed, set the vessel on ice. - -Rennet may be used with good effect before it has _quite_ dried. - - -AN EASY WAY OF MAKING BUTTER IN WINTER.--The following will be found an -excellent method of making butter in cold weather for family use. We -recommend its trial. Take, in the morning, the unskimmed milk of the -preceding evening, (after it has stood all night in a _tin_ pan,) and -set it over a furnace of hot coals, or in a stove; being careful not to -disturb the cream that has risen to the surface. Let it remain over the -fire till it simmers, and begins to bubble round the edges; but on no -account let it come to a boil. Then take the pan carefully off, (without -disturbing the cream) and carry it to a cool place, but not where it is -cold enough to freeze. In the evening take a spoon, and loosen the cream -round the sides of the pan. If very rich, it will be almost a solid -cake. Slip off the sheet of cream into another and larger pan, letting -as little milk go with it as possible. Cover it, and set it away. Repeat -the process for several days, till you have thus collected a sufficiency -of clotted cream to fill the pan. Then scald a wooden ladle, and beat -the cream hard with it during ten minutes. You will then have excellent -butter. Take it out of the pan, lay it on a flat dish, and with the -ladle squeeze and press it hard, till all the buttermilk is entirely -extracted and drained off. Then wash the butter in cold water, and work -a very little salt into it. Set it away in a cool place for three hours. -Then squeeze and press it again; also washing it a second time in cold -water. Make it up into pats, and keep it in a cool place. - -The unskimmed morning's milk, of course, may also be used for this -purpose, after it has stood twelve hours. The simmering over the fire -adds greatly to the quantity of cream, by throwing all the oily part of -the milk to the surface; but if allowed to boil, this oleaginous matter -will again descend, and mix with the rest, so as not to be separated. - -This is the usual method of making winter butter in the south of -England; and it is very customary in the British provinces of America. -Try it. - - -SWEET POTATO PONE.--Stir together till very light and white, three -quarters of a pound of fresh butter, and three quarters of a pound of -powdered white sugar, adding two table-spoonfuls of ginger. Grate a -pound and a half of sweet potato. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir -them gradually into the butter and sugar, in turn with the grated sweet -potato. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of saleratus or soda in a jill of sour -milk, and stir it in at the last, beating the whole very hard. Butter -the inside of a tin pan. Put in the mixture, and bake it four hours or -more. It should be eaten fresh, cut into slices. - - -RICE BREAD.--To a pint of well boiled rice add half a pint of wheat -flour, mixing them well together. Take six eggs, and beat the whites and -yolks separately. Having beaten the whites to a stiff froth, mix them -gradually with a pint of rich milk, and two large table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter, softened at the fire. Mix, by degrees, the yolks of the -eggs with the rice and flour. Then add the white-of-egg mixture, a -little at a time. Stir the whole very hard. Put it into a buttered tin -pan with straight or upright sides. Set it in a moderate oven, and bake -it an hour or more. Then turn it out of the pan, put it on a dish, and -send it warm to the breakfast table, and eat it with butter. - -This cake may be baked, by setting the pan that contains it into an iron -dutch-oven, placed over hot coals. Heat the lid of the oven on the -inside, by standing it up before the fire while the rice-bread is -preparing; and, after you put it on, keep the lid covered with hot -coals. - -Rice-bread may be made of ground rice flour, instead of whole rice. - - -RICE FLOUR BREAD.--Sift into a pan a pint and a half of rice flour, and -a pint and a half of fine wheat flour. Add two large table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter or lard, and mix in a pint and a half of milk. Beat four -eggs very light; then stir them gradually into the mixture. When the -whole has been well mixed, add, at the last, a small tea-spoonful of -soda or saleratus, dissolved in as much warm water as will cover it. Put -the whole into a buttered tin pan, set it immediately into a quick oven, -and bake it well. It is best when eaten fresh. Slice and butter it. - - -RICE FLOUR BATTER CAKES.--Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or -lard, in a quart of milk; but be careful not to let it begin to boil. -Divide the milk equally, by putting it into two pans. Beat three eggs -very light, and stir them into one half of the milk with the addition of -a large table-spoonful of wheat flour. Stir in as much ground rice flour -as will make a thick batter. Then put in a _small_ tea-cupful of strong -fresh yeast, and thin the batter with the remainder of the milk. Cover -it, and set it to rise. When it has risen high, and is covered with -bubbles, bake it on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes. Send -them to table hot, and butter them. - -Similar cakes may be made with indian meal instead of rice flour. - - -GROUND-NUT MACAROONS.--Take a sufficiency of ground-nuts, or pea-nuts, -that have been roasted in an iron pot over the fire; remove the shells, -and weigh a pound of the nuts. Put them into a pan of cold water, and -wash off the skins. Have ready some beaten white of egg. Pound the -ground-nuts (two or three at a time,) in a marble mortar, adding -frequently a little cold water to prevent their oiling. They must be -pounded to a smooth light paste; and, as you proceed, remove the paste -to a saucer or a plate. Beat, to a stiff froth, the whites of four eggs, -and then beat into it gradually a pound of powdered loaf sugar, and a -large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg mixed. Then stir in, by -degrees, the pounded ground-nuts, till the mixture becomes very thick. -Flour your hands, and roll between them portions of the mixture, forming -each portion into a little ball. Lay sheets of white paper on flat -baking tins, and place on them the macaroons at equal distances, -flattening them all a little, so as to press down the balls into cakes. -Then sift powdered sugar over each. Place them in a brisk oven, with -more heat at the top than in the bottom. Bake them brown. - -Almond macaroons may be made as above, mixing one quarter of a pound of -shelled bitter almonds, with three quarters of shelled sweet almonds. -For almond macaroons, instead of flouring your hands, you may dip them -in cold water; and when the macaroons are formed on the papers, go -slightly over every one with your fingers wet with cold water. - -Macaroons may be made, also, of grated cocoa-nut mixed with beaten white -of egg and powdered sugar. - - -COLUMBIAN PUDDING.--Tie up closely in a bit of very thin muslin a split -vanilla bean, cut into pieces, and a broken-up stick of cinnamon. Put -this bag, with its contents, into half a pint of rich milk, and boil it -a long time till very highly flavored. Then take out the bag; set the -milk near the fire to keep warm in the pan in which it was boiled, -covering it closely. Slice thin a pound of almond sponge cake, and lay -it in a deep dish. Pour over it a quart of rich cream, with which you -must mix the vanilla-flavored milk, and leave the cake to dissolve in -it. Blanch, in scalding water, two ounces of shelled bitter almonds or -peach kernels, and pound them (one at a time,) to a smooth paste in a -marble mortar, pouring on each a few drops of rose-water or peach-water -to prevent their oiling. When the almonds are done, set them away in a -cold place till wanted. Beat eight eggs till very light and thick; and -having stirred together hard the dissolved cake and the cream, add them -gradually to the mixture in turn with the almond, and half a pound of -powdered loaf sugar, a little at a time of each. Butter a deep dish, -and put in the mixture. Set the pudding into a brisk oven and bake it -well. Have ready a star nicely cut out of a large piece of candied -citron, a number of small stars, all of equal size, as many as there are -States in the Union, and a sufficiency of rays or long strips also cut -out of citron. The rays should be wide at the bottom and run to a point -at the top. As soon as the pudding comes out of the oven, while it is -smoking, arrange these decorations. Put the large star in the centre, -then the rays so that they will diverge from it, narrowing off towards -the edge of the pudding. Near the edge place the small stars in a -circle. - -Preserved citron-melon will be still better for this purpose than the -dry candied citron. - -This is a very fine pudding; suitable for a dinner party, or a Fourth of -July dinner. - - -A WASHINGTON PUDDING.--Pick, and wash clean half a pound of Zante -currants; drain them, and wipe them in a towel, and then spread them out -on a flat dish, and place them before the fire to dry thoroughly. -Prepare about a quarter of a pound or half a pint of finely-grated -bread-crumbs. Have ready a heaping tea-spoonful of powdered mace, -cinnamon, and nutmeg mixed. When the currants are dry, dredge them -thickly on all sides with flour, to prevent their sinking or clodding in -the pudding while baking. Cut up in a deep pan half a pound of the best -fresh butter, and add to it half a pound of fine white sugar, powdered. -Stir the butter and sugar together with a wooden spaddle, till they are -very light and creamy. Then add a table-spoonful of wine, and a -table-spoonful of brandy. Beat in a shallow pan, eight eggs till -perfectly light, and as thick as a good boiled custard. Afterwards, mix -with them, gradually, a pint of rich milk and the grated bread-crumbs, -stirred in alternately. Next, stir this mixture, by degrees, into the -pan of beaten butter and sugar, and add the currants a few at a time. -Finish with a table-spoonful of strong rose-water; or a wine-glass full, -if it is not very strong. Stir the whole very hard. Butter a large deep -white dish, or two of soup-plate size. Put in the batter. Set it -directly into a brisk oven, and bake it well. When cold, dredge the -surface with powdered sugar. Serve it up in the dish in which it was -baked. You may ornament the tops with bits of citron cut into leaves and -forming a wreath; or with circles of preserved strawberries. - -This will be found a very fine pudding. It must be baked in time to -become quite cold before dinner. - -For currants, you may substitute raisins of the best quality; seeded, -cut in half, and well dredged with flour. - -Instead of rose-water you may stir in the yellow rind (finely grated) of -one large lemon, or two small ones, and their juice also. - - -A COTTAGE PUDDING.--Take ripe currants, and having stripped them from -the stalks, measure as many as will make a heaping quart. Cover the -bottom of a deep dish with slices of bread, slightly buttered, and with -the crust cut off. Put a thick layer of currants on the bread, and then -a layer of sugar. Then other layers of bread, currants, and sugar, till -the dish is full; finishing at the top with very thin slices of bread. -Set it into the oven, and bake it half an hour. Serve it either warm or -cold; and eat it with sweetened cream. - -Instead of currants you may take cherries, (first stoning them all,) -raspberries, ripe blackberries, or barberries, plums, (first extracting -the stones,) stewed cranberries, or stewed gooseberries. If the fruit is -previously stewed, the pudding will require but ten minutes' baking. -When it is sent to table, have sugar at hand in case it should not be -sweet enough. - - -ICE-CREAM CAKES.--Stir together, till very light, a quarter of a pound -of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Beat six -eggs very light, and stir into them a half pint of rich milk. Add, -gradually, the eggs and milk to the butter and sugar, alternately with a -half pound of sifted flour. Add a glass of sweet wine and some grated -nutmeg. When all the ingredients are mixed, stir the batter very hard. -Then put it into small deep pans, or cups that have been well buttered, -filling them about two thirds with the batter. Set them immediately into -a brisk oven, and bake them brown. When done, remove them from the cups, -and place them to cool on an inverted sieve. When quite cold make a slit -or incision in the side of each cake. If very light, and properly baked, -they will be hollow in the middle. Fill up this cavity with ice cream, -carefully put in with a spoon, and then close the slit with your fingers -to prevent the cream running out. Spread them on a large dish. Either -send them to table immediately before the ice-cream melts or keep them -on ice till wanted. - - -WHIPPED CREAM MERINGUES.--Take the whites of eight eggs, and beat them -to a stiff froth that will stand alone. Then beat into them, gradually, -(a tea-spoonful at a time,) two pounds or more of finely-powdered loaf -sugar; continuing to add sugar till the mixture is very thick, and -finishing with lemon juice or extract of rose. Have ready some sheets of -white paper laid on a baking board, and with a spoon drop the mixture on -it in long oval heaps, about four inches in length. Smooth and shape -them with a broad-bladed knife, dipped occasionally in cold water. The -baking board used for this purpose should be an inch thick, and must -have a slip of iron beneath each end to elevate it from the floor of the -oven, so that it may not scorch, nor the bottoms of the meringues be -baked too hard. This baking-board must not be of pine wood, as a pine -board will communicate a disagreeable taste of turpentine. The oven must -be moderate. Bake the meringues of a light brown. When cool, take them -off the paper by slipping a knife nicely beneath the bottom of each. -Then push back or scoop out carefully a portion of the inside of each -meringue, taking care not to break them. Have ready some nice whipped -cream, made in the following proportion:--Take a quarter of a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar, and on some of the lumps rub off the yellow rind -of two large lemons. Powder the sugar, and then mix with it the juice of -the lemons, and grate in some nutmeg. Mix the sugar with a half pint of -sweet white wine. Put into a pan a pint of rich cream, and whip it with -rods or a wooden whisk, or mill it with a chocolate mill till it is a -stiff froth. Then mix in, gradually, the other ingredients; continuing -to whip it hard a while after they are all in. As you proceed, lay the -froth on an inverted sieve, with a dish underneath to catch the -droppings; which droppings must afterwards be whipped and added to the -rest. Fill the inside of each meringue with a portion of the whipped -cream. Then put two together, so as to form one long oval cake, joining -them nicely, so as to unite the flat parts that were next the paper, -leaving the inside filled with the whipped cream. Set them again in the -oven for a few minutes. They must be done with great care and nicety, so -as not to break. Each meringue should be about the usual length of a -middle finger. In dropping them on the paper, take care to shape the -oval ends handsomely and smoothly. They should look like very long -kisses. - - -CHOCOLATE PUFFS.--Beat very stiff the whites of three eggs, and then -beat in gradually half a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Scrape down very -fine three ounces of the best chocolate, (prepared cocoa is better -still,) and dredge it with flour to prevent its oiling; mixing the flour -well among it. Then add it gradually to the mixture of white of egg and -sugar, and stir the whole very hard. Cover the bottom of a square tin -pan with a sheet of fine white paper, cut to fit exactly. Place upon it -thin spots of powdered loaf sugar about the size of a half dollar. Pile -a portion of the mixture on each spot, smoothing it with the back of a -spoon or a broad knife, dipped in cold water. Sift white sugar over the -top of each. Set the pan into a brisk oven, and bake them a few minutes. -When cold, loosen them from the paper with a broad knife. - - -COCOA-NUT PUFFS.--Break up a large ripe cocoa-nut. Pare the pieces, and -lay them awhile in cold water. Then wipe them dry, and grate them as -finely as possible. Lay the grated cocoa-nut in well-formed heaps on a -large handsome dish. It will require no cooking. The heaps should be -about the circumference of a half dollar, and must not touch each other. -Flatten them down in the middle, so as to make a hollow in the centre of -each heap; and upon this pile some very nice sweetmeat. Make an -excellent whipped cream, well sweetened and flavored with lemon and -wine, and beat it to a stiff froth. Pile some of this cream high upon -each cake over the sweetmeats. If on a supper-table, you may arrange -them in circles round a glass stand. - - -FIG MARMALADE.--Take fine fresh figs that are perfectly ripe, such as -can only be obtained in countries where they are cultivated in -abundance. Weigh them, and to every two pounds of figs allow a pound and -a half of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of a large orange or lemon. -Cut up the figs, and put them into a preserving kettle with the sugar, -and orange or lemon rind, adding the juice. Boil them till the whole is -reduced to a thick smooth mass, frequently stirring it up from the -bottom. When done, put it warm into jars, and cover it closely. - - -CARRAWAY GINGERBREAD.--Cut up half a pound of fresh butter in a pint of -_West India_ molasses, and warm them together slightly till the butter -is quite soft. Then stir them well, and add gradually a half pound of -good brown sugar, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and two heaped -table-spoonfuls of ground ginger, or three, if the ginger is not very -strong. Sift two pounds or two quarts of flour. Beat four eggs till very -thick and light, and stir them gradually into the mixture, in turn with -the flour, and five or six large table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds, a -little at a time. Dissolve a very small tea-spoonful of pearlash or soda -in as much lukewarm water as will cover it. Then stir it in at the last. -Stir all very hard. Transfer it to a buttered tin pan with straight -sides, and bake it in a loaf in a moderate oven. It will require a great -deal of baking. - - -SEA-VOYAGE GINGERBREAD.--Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and cut up -in it a pound and a quarter of fresh butter; rub the butter well into -the flour, and then mix in a pint of _West India_ molasses and a pound -of the best brown sugar. Beat eight eggs till very light. Stir into the -beaten egg two glasses or a jill of brandy. Add also to the egg a -tea-cupful of ground ginger, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, -with a tea-spoonful of soda melted in a little warm water. Wet the -flour, &c., with this mixture till it becomes a soft dough. Sprinkle a -little flour on your pasteboard, and with a broad knife spread portions -of the mixture thickly and smoothly upon it. The thickness must be equal -all through; therefore spread it carefully and evenly, as the dough will -be too soft to roll out. Then with the edge of a tumbler dipped in -flour, cut it out into round cakes. Have ready square pans, slightly -buttered; lay the cakes in them sufficiently far apart to prevent their -running into each other when baked. Set the pans into a brisk oven, and -bake the cakes well, seeing that they do not burn. - -You may cut them out small with the lid of a cannister (or something -similar) the usual size of gingerbread nuts. - -These cakes will keep during a long voyage, and are frequently carried -to sea. Many persons find highly-spiced gingerbread a preventive to -sea-sickness. - - -EXCELLENT GROUND RICE PUDDING.--Take half a pint from a quart of rich -milk, and boil in it a large handful of bitter almonds or peach kernels, -blanched and broken up; also half a dozen blades of mace, keeping the -sauce-pan closely covered. When the milk is highly flavored and reduced -to one half the quantity, take it off and strain it. Stir, gradually, -into the remaining pint and a half of milk, five heaping table-spoonfuls -of ground rice; set it over the fire in a sauce-pan, and let it come to -a boil. Then take it off, and while it is warm, mix in gradually a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter and a quarter of a pound of white -sugar. Afterwards, beat eight eggs as light as possible, and stir them -gradually into the mixture. Add some grated nutmeg. Stir the whole very -hard; put it into a deep dish, and set it immediately into the oven. -Keep it baking steadily for an hour. It should then be done. Eat it -cool, having sifted sugar over it. - - -CHOCOLATE MACAROONS.--Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, by -scalding them with boiling water, till the skins peel off easily. Then -throw them into a bowl of cold water, and let them stand awhile. Take -them out and wipe them separately. Afterwards set them in a warm place -to dry thoroughly. Put them, one at a time, into a marble mortar, and -pound them to a smooth paste, moistening them, as you proceed, with a -few drops of rose-water to prevent their oiling. When you have pounded -one or two, take them out of the mortar with a tea-spoon, and put them -into a deep plate beside you, and continue removing the almonds to the -plate till they are all done. Scrape down, as fine as possible, half a -pound of the best chocolate, or of Baker's prepared cocoa, and mix it -thoroughly with the pounded almonds. Then set the plate in a cool place. -Put the whites of eight eggs into a shallow pan, and beat them to a -stiff froth that will stand alone. Have ready a pound and a half of -finely-powdered loaf sugar. Stir it hard into the beaten white-of-egg, a -spoonful at a time. Then stir in, gradually, the mixture of almond and -chocolate, and beat the whole very hard. Drop the mixture in equal -portions upon thin white paper, laid on square tin pans; smoothing them -with a spoon into round cakes about the size of a half dollar. Dredge -the top of each lightly with powdered sugar. Set them into a quick -oven, and bake them a light brown. When done, take them off the paper. - - -BREAD FRITTERS.--Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of Zante currants, and -having spread them out on a flat dish, dredge them well with flour. -Grate some bread into a pan, till you have a pint of crumbs. Pour over -the grated bread a pint of boiling milk, into which you have stirred, -(as soon as taken from the fire,) a piece of fresh butter the size of an -egg. Cover the pan and let it stand an hour. Then beat it hard, and add -nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar, stirred in -gradually, and two table-spoonfuls of the best brandy. Beat six eggs -till very light, and then stir them by degrees into the mixture. Lastly, -add the currants a few at a time, and beat the whole very hard. It -should be a thick batter. If you find it too thin, add a little flour. -Have ready, over the fire, a hot frying-pan with boiling lard. Put in -the batter in large spoonfuls, (so as not to touch,) and fry the -fritters a light brown. Drain them on a perforated skimmer, or an -inverted sieve placed in a deep pan, and send them to table hot. Eat -them with wine, and powdered sugar. - - -TO KEEP FRESH BUTTER FOR FRYING STEWING, &c.--Take several pounds of -the _very best_ fresh butter. Cut it up in a large tin sauce-pan, or in -any clean cooking vessel lined with tin. Set it over the fire, and boil -and skim it during half an hour. Then pour it off, carefully, through a -funnel into a stone jar, and cover it closely with a bladder or leather -tied down over the lid. The butter having thus been separated from the -salt and sediment, (which will be found remaining at the bottom of the -boiling vessel,) if kept closely covered and set in a cool place, will -continue good for a month, and be found excellent for frying and -stewing, and other culinary purposes. Prepare it thus in May or June, -and you may use it in winter, if living in a place where fresh butter is -scarce at that season. - - -EXCELLENT MUTTON SOUP.--Having been accidentally omitted in its proper -place, we here insert a receipt for very fine mutton soup. Try it. If -for a large family, take two necks of mutton of the best quality, and -let the butcher disjoint it. To each pound of meat allow a quart of -water. Put it into a soup-pot, with a slice of ham, which will render -the soup sufficiently salt. Boil it slowly, and skim it well, till the -scum ceases to appear. If you have no ham, season the meat, when you -first put it in, with a tea-spoonful of salt. In the mean time prepare -the vegetables, but do not put them in till the meat has boiled to rags, -and all the scum has risen to the surface and been carefully removed. It -is then time to strain out the shreds of meat and bone, return the soup -to the pot, and add the vegetables. First, have ready the deep yellow -_outsides_ of three or four carrots grated, and stir them into the soup -to enrich it, and give it a fine color. Next, add turnips, potatos, -parsnips, salsify, celery, (including its green leaves from the top) and -onions that have been already peeled and boiled by themselves to render -them less strong. All the vegetables should be cut nicely into small -pieces of equal size, (as for Soup à la Julienne.) You may add some -boiled beets, handsomely sliced. And (if approved) strew in at the last -a handful of fresh leaves of the marygold flower, which adds a flavor to -some persons very agreeable. Put all these vegetables gradually into the -soup, (those first that require the longest boiling,) and when they are -all _quite done_ the soup is finished. If well made, with a liberal -allowance of meat and vegetables, and well boiled, it will be much -liked--particularly if served as Julienne soup, for company. - - -NEW ENGLAND CREAM CHEESE.--Take a large pan of rich unskimmed milk that -has set in the dairy all night, and is from pasture-fed cows in the -summer. Have ready a small tea-cup of rennet-water, in which a piece of -rennet, from four to six inches square, has been steeping several hours. -Stir the rennet-water into the pan of milk, and set it in a warm place -till it forms a firm curd. Tie up the curd in a clean linen bag, and -hang it up in the dairy with a pan under it to receive the droppings, -till it drips no longer. Then transfer the curd to a small cheese mould. -Cover it all over with a clean linen cloth, folded over the sides, and -well secured. Put a heavy weight on the top, so as to press it hard. The -wooden vessel in which you mould cream cheeses, should be a bottomless, -broad hoop, about the circumference of a dinner plate. Set it (before -you fill it with the curd) on a very clean table or large flat dish. -Turn it every day for four days, keeping it covered thickly all over -with fresh green grass, frequently renewed. When done, keep it in a dry -cool place, first rubbing the outside with fresh butter. When _once -cut_, use the whole cheese on that day, as it may spoil before the next. -Send it to the tea-table cut across in triangular or pie pieces. - - -MOLASSES CANDY.--Take three quarts of the best _West India_ molasses--no -other will do. Put it into a thick block-tin kettle, (or a _bain-marie_) -and stir in a pound and a half of the best and cleanest brown sugar. -Boil slowly and skim it well, (stirring it always after skimming,) and -taking care that it does not burn. Prepare the grated rind and the juice -of three large lemons or oranges, and stir them in after the molasses -and sugar have boiled long enough to become very thick. Continue to boil -and stir till it will boil no longer, and the spoon will no longer move. -Try some in a saucer, and let it get cold. If it is brittle, it is -done. Then take it from the fire, and transfer it immediately to shallow -square tin pans, that have been well greased with nice fresh butter or -sweet oil. Spread it evenly, and set it to cool. - -While boiling, you may add three or four spoonfuls of shell-barks, -cracked clean from their shells, and divided into halves. Or the same -quantity of roasted pea-nuts or ground-nuts. With both nuts and lemon it -will be very good. - - - - -WORTH KNOWING. - - -THE BEST CEMENT FOR JARS.--Before preserving and pickling time, buy at a -druggist's, two ounces of the clearest and whitest gum tragacanth. -Obtain also two grains of corrosive sublimate, (indispensable to this -cement), and having picked the gum tragacanth clean, and free from dust -and dark or discolored particles, put it with the sublimate into a very -clean yellow or white-ware mug that holds a small quart and has a -close-fitting lid belonging to it. Then fill the vessel more than -two-thirds with very clean water, either warm or cold; and put on the -lid. Let it rest till next morning. Then stir it with an _unpainted_ -stick, that will reach quite down to the bottom. Repeat the stirring -frequently through the day, always replacing the lid. In a few days the -cement will have risen to the top of the mug, and have become a fine, -clear, smooth paste, _far superior to any other_; and, by means of the -corrosive sublimate, it will keep perfectly well to an indefinite -period, if always closely covered, and having no sort of metal dipped -into it. On no account attempt to keep this paste in tin, or even in -silver. Both paste and metal will turn black and become spotted. -Remember this. - -When going to put away your sweetmeats or pickles, this paste will come -into use, and be found invaluable. It is best to keep all these things -in small jars, as opening a large jar frequently, may injure its -contents by letting in the air. In a large family, or where many pickles -are eaten, those in most frequent use may be kept in stone-ware jars, -with a wooden spoon always at hand for taking them out when wanted. On -the surface of every jar of pickles, put one or two table-spoonfuls of -salad oil, and then cover the top of the jar closely with a circular -piece of bladder or thin leather. Next cut out a narrow band of the -same, and cement it on with gum tragacanth paste, (made as above), and -let it remain till you open the jar for use. - -For sweetmeats, have glass or white-ware jars. Lay on the surface of -each a circular paper, cut to fit and dipped in brandy. Next, put on an -outside cover of bladder or thick white paper secured with a band of the -same, coated with tragacanth paste. When this cement is used, the jars -will not be infested with ants or other insects, the corrosive sublimate -keeping them out. - -This paste should be at hand in every library or office, when wanted for -papers or books. It requires no boiling when made, and is always ready, -and never spoils. For a small quantity, take an ounce of the best gum -tragacanth and a grain of corrosive sublimate. Get a covered white or -yellow-ware mug that holds a pint; such a mug will cost but twelve -cents. Dissolve in less than a pint of water. - - -A BAIN-MARIE; OR, DOUBLE KETTLE.--These are most useful and satisfactory -utensils, as all who have tried them can certify. They are to be had of -various sizes at the best household furniture stores, and are made to -order by the chief tinsmiths. The French make great use of the -Bain-Marie; which, in some measure, accounts for the general superiority -of their cookery. - -This utensil, as made in America, is a double kettle of the strongest -and best block-tin. The bottom of the outside kettle is of strong copper -or iron, well tinned, and _kept so_. The food, however, is all contained -in the inner kettle, which is of tin entirely. After the food is in, -(having with it no water whatever), put on the lid tightly, and through -the tube on the outside, pour into the outer kettle the water that is to -cook it. If it boils away too fast, replenish it with more water poured -in at the tube. - -If it boils too slowly, quicken it by adding some salt put in at the -tube. Keep the kettle closely covered, except when removing the lid to -take off the scum; and do this quick and seldom. The superfluous steam -is all the time escaping through the top of the tube and through a very -small hole in the lid. Nothing cooked in this manner (with all the water -outside) can possibly burn or scorch. After every skimming, stir the -stew down to the bottom before you replace the lid. To cook in a -Bain-Marie, requires a strong, steady heat, well kept up; and you must -begin earlier than in the common way of stewing. This is an excellent -vessel for boiling custards, blancmanges, marmalades, and many other -nice things; as a good housewife will soon discover. Also, for making -beef tea and other preparations for invalids. It is well to keep a small -one purposely for a sick room. - -If from deficiency of sugar, or being kept too warm, or not closely -covered, any of your sweetmeats turn sour, do not hastily throw them -away, but carefully remove the surface, (even if coated with blue -mould), add an additional portion of sugar so as to make them very -sweet, and put them into a Bain-Marie. Fill the outer kettle with _hot_ -water, and boil it till you find the preserves restored to their proper -taste. Then put them up again in jars that have been well scalded, -rinsed, and sunned, and lay brandied paper on the surface of each. - -Mouldy pickles may be recovered in a similar manner, adding fresh spices -and vinegar before you put them up again. - -[Illustration: Bain-Marie; or, Double Kettle. (Pronounced _Bine -Maree_.)] - - - - -INDEX. - - - A. - - A-la-mode beef, 150. - - Almond and macaroon custards, 486. - - Almond macaroons, 536. - - Almond pudding, baked, 474. - - Almond pudding, boiled, 475. - - Almond sponge cake, 524. - - Almond soup, 58. - - Apees, 532. - - Apple dumplings, 457. - - Apples, baked whole, 461. - - Apples, bellflower or pippins, 562. - - Apple fritters or quince, 450. - - Apple jelly, 492. - - Apple pies, (fine) 479. - - Apple pork pie, 224. - - Apple sauce, 338. - - Apple sauce, baked, 339. - - Apple pudding, 458. - - Apple water, 591. - - Arrow-root biscuit, 603. - - Artichokes, fried, 363. - - Asparagus, new way, 371 - - Asparagus omelet, 366. - - Asparagus oysters, 372. - - Asparagus soup, 44. - - Autumn soup, 61. - - Aunt Lydia's corn cake, 425. - - - B. - - Bacon, to prepare, 246. - - Bacon, to boil, 247. - - Bacon and beans, 248. - - Bacon, broiled, 249. - - Bacon, stewed, 250. - - Baked fish, 79. - - Baked soup, 76. - - Baked tongue, 171. - - Barley water, 590. - - Bananas, fried, 358. - - Batter pudding, 447. - - Bean soup, 42. - - Beans, (green,) 379. - - Beef-a-la-mode, 151. - - Beef bouilli, 152. - - Beef, corned, 145. - - Beef, corned, fried, 148. - - Beef, (French,) 154. - - Beef, corned, stewed, 153. - - Beef, fresh, stewed, 155. - - Beef, dried and smoked, 148. - - Beefs heart, 161. - - Beef with mushrooms, 160. - - Beef with onions, 157. - - Beef with oysters, 158. - - Beef gumbo, 375. - - Beef patties, 161. - - Beef, spiced, 149. - - Beef with potatoes, 159. - - Beef, fresh, (stewed,) 155. - - Beef, roasted, 138. - - Beef, (smoked,) stewed, 154. - - Beefsteaks, 141. - - Beefsteaks, broiled, 142. - - Beefsteaks, fried, 143. - - Beefsteaks, stewed, 144. - - Beefsteak with oysters, 156. - - Beefsteak pie, 162. - - Beefsteak pot-pie, 164. - - Beefsteak pudding, 166. - - Beefsteaks for invalids, 584. - - Beef tea, 589. - - Beef with tomatos, 156. - - Beets, 387. - - Beets, baked, 388. - - Bell-peppers, pickled, 574. - - Bird dumplings, 305. - - Birds for larding, 305. - - Birds for invalids, 584. - - Birds in a grove, 304. - - Birds with mushrooms, 303. - - Biscuit sandwiches, 245. - - Bologna sausages, 232. - - Borders of paste, 472. - - Boned turkey, 271. - - Blackfish, and sea-bass, 83. - - Blancmange, 497. - - Blancmange, carrageen, 587. - - Blancmange, finest, 499. - - Bran muffins, 615. - - Brandy green gages, 557. - - Brandy peaches, 557. - - Bread, 433. - - Bran bread, 436. - - Bread biscuit, 436. - - Bread cakes, 437. - - Bread, rye, 436. - - Bread, home-made, 433. - - Bread pudding, 454. - - Bread-and-butter pudding, 454. - - Bread, (twist,) 435. - - Buckwheat cakes, 421. - - Brine for pickling meat, 235. - - Broccoli, 359. - - Broccoli and eggs, 361. - - Brown Betty, 455. - - Browning for soups, 312. - - Browned flour, 313. - - Buns, (Spanish,) 525. - - Butter, (clarified,) 310. - - Butter, (melted,) 309. - - Buttered toast, 599. - - Butternuts to pickle, 578. - - - C. - - Cabbage, boiled, 350. - - Cabbage boiled an excellent way, 351. - - Cabbage, forced, 353. - - Cabbage, fried, 352. - - Cabbage soup, 45. - - Cabbage, red, 45. - - Cale cannon, 352. - - Catchup, (mushroom,) 324. - - Catchup, (tomato,) 326. - - Catchup, (walnut,) 325. - - Calf's head, stewed, 205. - - Calf's feet jelly, 491. - - Camp catchup, 328. - - Canvass-back ducks, 281. - - Canvass-backs, broiled, 282. - - Canvass-backs, (stewed,) 282. - - Canvass-backs, (roasted,) 281. - - Carolina punch, 610. - - Carrots, 385. - - Carrot soup, 50. - - Carrots, stewed, 368. - - Carrageen blancmange, 587. - - Cashaw pudding, 478. - - Catfish, fried, 87. - - Cauliflower, boiled, 359. - - Cauliflower, fried, 360. - - Cauliflower macaroni, 360. - - Cauliflower omelet, 359. - - Cauliflowers, pickled, 575. - - Celery, fried, 362. - - Charlotte, (country,) 462. - - Charlotte, plain, 463. - - Charlotte russe, 507. - - Champagne, (pink,) 608. - - Cheese pudding, 481. - - Chestnut soup, 50. - - Chestnut pork, 220. - - Cherry marmalade, 550. - - Cherries, preserved, 563. - - Cherries, pickled, 580. - - Chicken salad, 384. - - Chicken curry, 297. - - Chickens, fricasseed, 289. - - Chickens, stewed whole, 290. - - Chicken broth for the sick, 581. - - Chicken gumbo, 292. - - Chicken-pie, 541. - - Chicken pot-pie, 297. - - Chicken soup, 55. - - Chicken, (tomato,) 294. - - Chicken and turkey patties, 295. - - Chicken rice pudding, 295. - - Chickens, fried, 287. - - Chickens, broiled, 287. - - Chitterlings, 201. - - Chitterlings, baked, 203. - - Chitterlings, fried, 202. - - Chocolate, 597. - - Chocolate caramel, 611. - - Chocolate custards, 484. - - Chocolate macaroons, 536. - - Chowder, fine, 88. - - Chowder, (Yankee,) 88. - - Cinnamon bread, 440. - - Cinnamon cake, 528. - - Citron melons, preserved, 552. - - Clam chowder, 89. - - Clam fritters, 112. - - Clam pie, 121. - - Clams, scolloped, 113. - - Clam soup, 74. - - Clam soup for invalids, 582. - - Cocoa-nut cake, 528. - - Cocoa-nut jumbles, 534. - - Cocoa-nut, (orange,) 504. - - Cocoa-nut pudding, baked, 476. - - Cocoa-nut pudding, boiled, 477. - - Cocoa-nut puffs, 534. - - Cocoa-nut soup, 57. - - Codfish, (stewed,) 103. - - Codfish, (boiled,) 84. - - Codfish, (fried,) 103. - - Codfish, salt, 86. - - Coffee, 596. - - Coloring for sauces, 310. - - Corn cake, (Aunt Lydia's,) 426. - - Corn soup, 38. - - Cottage cheese, 616. - - Country captain, 299. - - Country grapes, 567. - - Country plums, 566. - - Country potatos, 348. - - Crab-apples, preserved, 562. - - Crabs, 136. - - Crabs, (soft,) 122. - - Crab fritters, soft, 113. - - Cranberry sauce, 337. - - Cream cakes, 503. - - Creamed pine-apple, 506. - - Cream and peaches, 506. - - Creamed strawberries, 505. - - Cream tarts, 504. - - Cross buns, 439. - - Crullers, (common,) 444. - - Crullers, (soft,) 442. - - Croquettes, (rice,) 296. - - Cucumbers, (to prepare,) 369. - - Cucumbers, stewed, 370. - - Cucumbers, pickled, 576. - - Cucumber catchup, 327. - - Curry balls, 373. - - Curried eggs, 300. - - Curried chicken, 297. - - Curry powder, 332. - - Curry powder, (Madras,) 333. - - Custards, baked, 460. - - Custard, boiled, 461. - - - D. - - Damson pickles, 580. - - Damson sauce, 342. - - Dressing for slaw, 354. - - Dried apple sauce, 341. - - Dried peach sauce, 341. - - Dried and smoked beef, 148. - - Doughnuts, 443. - - Dumplings, (apple,) 457. - - Dumplings, (peach,) 458. - - Dumplings, (bird,) 305. - - Dumpling, (sausage,) 231. - - Ducks, boiled, 279. - - Ducks, fricasseed, 280. - - Ducks with peas, 280. - - Ducks, roasted, 278. - - Duck soup, 56. - - Ducks, (terrapin,) 283. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) broiled, 282. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) plain, 281. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) roasted, 281. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) stewed, 282. - - - E. - - East indian pickle, 569. - - East India sauce for fish, 331. - - Egg balls, 373. - - Egg-plants, baked, 357. - - Eggs, to beat, 615. - - Eggs, to boil, 612. - - Egg-nogg, 614. - - Egg sauce, 316. - - Eggs, poached, 613. - - Eggs, scrambled, 614. - - Egg wine, 591. - - Ellen Clarke's pudding, 603. - - Epicurean sauce, 331. - - - F. - - Farina, 500. - - Farina blancmange, 588. - - Farina flummery, 589. - - Farina gruel, 589. - - Fast-day soup, 74. - - Farmer's rice, 451. - - Fennel sauce, 319. - - Fig pudding, 617. - - Filet gumbo, 293. - - Fish, to clean, 77. - - Fish, to bake, 79. - - Fish cakes, 82. - - Fish, to boil, 77. - - Fish, to fry, 79. - - Fish, spiced, 81. - - Fish soup, 71. - - Fish, to stew, 81. - - Floating island, 515. - - Florendines, 482. - - Fillet of pork, 225. - - Fillet of veal, 189. - - Fowls, boiled, 285. - - Fowls, pulled, 286. - - Fowls, roasted, 284. - - Fowl and oysters, 291. - - French chicken pie, 291. - - French ham pie, 616. - - French pot-au-feu, 64. - - French sour crout, 354. - - French stew, 158. - - French white soup, 56. - - Friday soup, 75. - - Fried oysters, 110. - - Fritters, 448. - - Fritters, (orange,) 449. - - Fritters, (peach,) 449. - - Fruit charlotte, 483. - - Fruit pies, (common,) 466. - - Fruit pot-pies, 460. - - Fruit in syrups, 552. - - - G. - - Game soup, 68. - - Giblet pie, 277. - - Gingerbread, (Lafayette,) 538. - - Gingernuts, 539. - - Golden cake, 530. - - Gooseberry fool, 463. - - Gooseberries preserved, 565. - - Gooseberry sauce, 339. - - Goose pie, 276. - - Goose, to roast, 274. - - Gravy sippets, 584. - - Gravy, to make, 323. - - Green beans, to boil, 379. - - Green gages, to preserve, 557. - - Green lemons or limes, 555. - - Green Mayonnaise, 330. - - Green peas, to boil, 378. - - Green pea soup, 41. - - Gruel, 586. - - Gumbo, (beef,) 375. - - Gumbo, (filet,) 293. - - Gumbo, (chicken,) 292. - - Gum arabic water, 590. - - - H. - - Halibut, fried, 97. - - Halibut, stewed, 104. - - Hams, to cure, 236. - - Ham, baked, 239. - - Ham, boiled, 238. - - Ham, brine for pickling, 235. - - Ham, broiled, 241. - - Ham, disguised, 243. - - Ham, fried, 242. - - Ham, fried, (nice,) 242. - - Ham cake, 243. - - Ham, (madeira,) 240. - - Ham toast, 173. - - Ham omelet, 244. - - Ham, potted, 246. - - Ham pie, (French,) 616. - - Ham, sliced, 243. - - Hashed cold meat, 193. - - Hare, coated, 264 - - Herb teas, 585. - - Herb candies, 585. - - Hog's head cheese, 234. - - Hominy, 392. - - Horse-radish, 317. - - - I. - - Ice cream, 510. - - Icing, (warm,) 519. - - Icing, 518. - - Ice cream cakes, 632. - - Ice water, (or sherbet,) 513. - - Iced plum pudding, 621. - - Indian corn, to boil, 391. - - Indian mush, 412. - - India pickle, 569. - - Indian pudding, (fine,) 428. - - Italian pork, 226. - - Irish stew, 180. - - - J. - - Jams or marmalade, 546. - - Jam, strawberry, 549. - - Jam, raspberry, 548. - - Jellies, 545. - - Jelly, apple, 492. - - Jelly, calf's feet, 491. - - Jelly cake, 535. - - Jelly, currant, 494. - - Jelly, (or marmalade,) pudding, 480. - - Jelly, orange, 493. - - Jelly, Siberian, 493. - - Jelly, (Wine,) 496. - - Jelly water, 587. - - Jumbles, 534. - - Jumbles, (cocoa-nut,) 534. - - Junket, 450. - - - K. - - Kebobbed mutton, 179. - - Kebobbed veal, 197. - - Kisses, 537. - - Knuckle of veal and bacon, 196. - - - L. - - Lady cake, 526. - - Lady fingers, 524. - - Lafayette gingerbread, 538. - - Lamb, 181. - - Lamb, larded, 186. - - Larded tongue, 172. - - Lamb chops, stewed, 185. - - Lamb cutlets, 184. - - Lamb pie, 187. - - Lamb, roast, 182. - - Lamb steaks, 183. - - Lard, to prepare, 250. - - Larded liver, 199. - - Lemon cakes, 522. - - Lemon catchup, 327. - - Lemon custards, 485. - - Lemon pudding, 473. - - Lemon bread pudding, 468. - - Lemons or limes, to preserve green, 555. - - Lemon syrups, 513. - - Lemon taffy, 506. - - Lemons or oranges, preserved, 554. - - Lettuce peas, 367. - - Lettuce peas, plain, 368. - - Lima beans, 380. - - Liver, fried, 198. - - Liver pie, 201. - - Liver pudding, 234. - - Liver rissoles, 200. - - Liver, stewed, 200. - - Lobsters, 132. - - Lobster pudding, 136. - - Lobster salad, (plain,) 133. - - Lobster sauce, 137. - - Lobster rissoles, 135. - - Lobster salad, (fine,) 134. - - Lobster soup, 71. - - - M. - - Macaroni, 600. - - Macaroni, (sweet,) 601. - - Macaroons, (almond,) 536. - - Macaroons, (ground-nut,) 628. - - Macaroons, (chocolate,) 536. - - Mackerel, broiled, 96. - - Mackerel, fried, 97. - - Madras curry powder, 333. - - Mangoes, (peach,) 571. - - Mangoes, (melon,) 572. - - Marmalade meringues, 533. - - Marmalade, (grape,) 550. - - Marmalade, (cherry,) 550. - - Marmalade, (orange,) 550. - - Marmalade, (peach,) 546. - - Marmalade, (plum,) 548. - - Marmalade, (pumpkin,) 547. - - Marmalade, (quince,) 546. - - Marmalade, (pine-apple,) 549. - - Marmalade, (tomato,) 547. - - Maryland biscuit, 432. - - Marrow pudding, 501. - - Mayonnaise, (green,) 330. - - Melongina or Egg-plant, 356. - - Meringue pudding, 479. - - Meringues, (whipped cream,) 633. - - Meat pies, 163. - - Milk biscuit, 437. - - Milk pottage, 451. - - Milk toast, 598. - - Mince pies, 488. - - Mint julep, 610. - - Mint sauce, 317. - - Mock turtle soup, 69. - - Molasses pie, 446. - - Molasses pot-pie, 447. - - Molasses pudding, 444. - - Molasses supper, 594. - - Muffins, (soft,) 429. - - Mush, 412. - - Mushrooms with beef, 160. - - Mushrooms, baked, 391. - - Mushroom catchup, 324. - - Mushroom omelet, 364. - - Mushroom sauce, 321. - - Mushrooms, pickled, 572. - - Mushrooms, stewed, 390. - - Mustard, (French,) 329. - - Mutton, 173. - - Mutton broth for invalids, 583. - - Mutton, (boiled leg of,) 175. - - Mutton, (boiled loin of,) 174. - - Mutton chops, (broiled,) 177. - - Mutton steaks, (fried,) 178. - - Mutton chops with potatos, 179. - - Mutton chops with tomatos, 178. - - Mutton, (boiled,) (sauce for,) 175. - - Mutton steaks, (stewed,) 176. - - Mutton, kebobbed, 179. - - - N. - - Nasturtions, pickled, 581. - - Nectar, 611. - - Noodle soup, 54. - - New Year's cake, 605. - - - O. - - Ochras, to boil, 375. - - Ochras, dried, 374. - - Omelet, (common,) 601. - - Omelet soufflé, 501. - - Omelet of sweetbreads, 213. - - Onion custard, 358. - - Onions, 376. - - Onion eggs, 373. - - Onions, pickled, 577. - - Onion sauce, (fine,) 320. - - Onion sauce, (plain,) 321. - - Onions, (to roast,) 376. - - Onions, (to stew,) 376. - - Onion soup, 47. - - Ontario cake, 604. - - Orange cake, 522. - - Orange or lemon custards, 484. - - Orange cocoa-nut, 504. - - Orange fritters, 449. - - Orange jelly, 493. - - Orange marmalade, 550. - - Orange milk, 551. - - Orange pudding, baked, 476. - - Orange pudding, boiled, 476. - - Oranges (or lemons,) preserved, 554. - - Orange or lemon syrup, 513. - - Oysters, broiled, 119. - - Oysters, to choose, 108. - - Oysters, to feed, 108. - - Oysters, fried, 110. - - Oyster fritters, 111. - - Oysters, (French,) 110. - - Oyster loaves, 117. - - Oyster omelet, 118. - - Oyster patties, 117. - - Oysters, pickled, 115. - - Oysters, pickled for keeping, 116. - - Oyster pie, 120. - - Oysters, roasted, 114. - - Oysters, scolloped, 114. - - Oysters, raw, for the sick, 584. - - Oyster soup, 73. - - Oyster soup, for invalids, 582. - - Oysters, stewed, 109. - - - P. - - Panada, (chicken,) 589. - - Panada, (sweet,) 590. - - Pancakes, 450. - - Parsley, crimped, 319. - - Parsley sauce, 318. - - Parsnips, baked, 387. - - Parsnips, boiled, 386. - - Parsnips, fried, 386. - - Parsnip fritters, 387. - - Parsnip soup, 49. - - Partridges, (pear fashion,) 301. - - Partridges, roasted, 302. - - Partridge, plain, 302. - - Paste, (excellent plain,) 467. - - Paste, (potato,) 464. - - Paste puff, (the best,) 469. - - Paste borders, 472. - - Peas, to boil, 377. - - Peas, stewed, 377. - - Pea soup, (green,) 41. - - Pea soup, (split,) 43. - - Peas with lettuce, 367. - - Peas, plain lettuce, 368. - - Peaches and cream, 506. - - Peach dumplings, 458. - - Peach mangoes, 571. - - Peach marmalade, 546. - - Peaches, (brandied,) 557. - - Peaches, pickled, 570. - - Peaches, preserved, 556. - - Pears, baked, 462. - - Pepper-pot, 53. - - Peppers, (bell,) pickled, 574. - - Persimmon jam, 567. - - Pheasants, roasted, 302. - - Pickles, 568. - - Pickled beets with cabbage, 575. - - Pickled bell-peppers, 574. - - Pickled button tomatos, 581. - - Pickled butternuts, 578. - - Pickled cauliflowers, 575. - - Pickled cherries, 580. - - Pickled cucumbers, 576. - - Pickled cucumbers with onions, 578. - - Pickled damsons, 580. - - Pickles, East India, 569. - - Pickled melon mangoes, 572. - - Pickled mushrooms, 572. - - Pickled nasturtions, 581. - - Pickled onions, 577. - - Pickled peaches, 570. - - Pickled peach mangoes, 571. - - Pickled plums, 579. - - Pickled shrimps, 314. - - Pickled walnuts, 578. - - Pie, (crust,) very plain, 464. - - Pigeon pie, 540. - - Pigeons, roasted, 308. - - Pig, to dress, 220. - - Pig's feet, fried, 227. - - Pine-apple marmalade, 549. - - Pine-apples, preserved, 553. - - Pine-apple tart, 478. - - Pink champagne, 608. - - Pink sauce, 334. - - Planked shad, 106. - - Plovers, roasted, 307. - - Plum cake, 516. - - Plums, preserved, 557. - - Plums, pickled, 579. - - Plum pudding, (plain,) 468. - - Plum pudding, (fine,) 486. - - Poke plant, 618. - - Pot-au-feu, (French,) 64. - - Pot-pies, 165. - - Pot-pie, (terrapin,) 125. - - Pumpkin, stewed, 389. - - Pork, 216. - - Pork and apples, 222. - - Pork and beans, 228. - - Pork with corn and beans, 229. - - Pork with pea pudding, 230. - - Pork, (Italian,) 226. - - Pork, fillet, 225. - - Pork olives, 227. - - Pork pie, (apple,) 224. - - Pork, (apple pot-pie,) 223. - - Pork, to roast, 218. - - Pork spare-ribs, roasted, 220. - - Pork steaks, stewed, 222. - - Pork steaks, fried, 223. - - Pork, (sweet potato,) 219. - - Portable soup, 51. - - Potatos, boiled, 345. - - Potatos, roasted, 346. - - Potatos, baked, 347. - - Potato cakes, 348. - - Potatos, (country,) 348. - - Potatos, fried, 348. - - Potatos, (new,) 347. - - Potatos, mashed, 347. - - Potato paste, 464. - - Potato pudding, (plain,) 602. - - Potatos, stewed, 349. - - Potato beef, 159. - - Potato mutton chops, 179. - - Potato soup, 50. - - Pot-pie, (beefsteak,) 164. - - Pot-pie, (chicken,) 297. - - Poultry and game, 265. - - Pound cake, 520. - - Pudding, (almond,) baked, 474. - - Pudding, (almond,) boiled, 475. - - Pudding, (apple,) 458. - - Pudding, (batter,) 447. - - Pudding, (bread,) 454. - - Pudding, bread and butter, 454. - - Pudding, Brown Betty, 455. - - Pudding, (cashaw,) 478. - - Pudding, (cheese,) 481. - - Pudding, (cocoa-nut,) 476. - - Pudding, (cocoa-nut,) boiled, 477. - - Pudding, (cottage,) 632. - - Pudding, iced plum, 621. - - Pudding, (Columbian,) 629. - - Pudding, (Ellen Clarke's,) 603. - - Pudding, lemon bread, 468. - - Pudding, marrow, 501. - - Pudding, plum, 486. - - Pudding, plum, (plain,) 468. - - Pudding, molasses, 444. - - Pudding, rice, (baked,) 452. - - Pudding, rice, (boiled,) 453. - - Pudding, orange, 476. - - Pudding, lemon or orange, (boiled,) 476. - - Pudding, sweet potato, 477. - - Pudding, white potato, 478. - - Pudding, meringue, 479. - - Pudding, marmalade or jelly, 480. - - Pudding, pumpkin, (fine,) 478. - - Pudding, pumpkin, (Yankee,) 390. - - Pudding, rolled, 459. - - Pumpkin, stewed, 389. - - - Q. - - Quails, roasted, 302. - - Queen cake, 522. - - Quince marmalade, 546. - - Quince pies, 478. - - Quinces, preserved, 560. - - - R. - - Rabbits, 259. - - Rabbits, coated, 264. - - Rabbits, fricasseed, 263. - - Rabbits with onions, 261. - - Rabbit pot-pie, 262. - - Rabbits, pulled, 263. - - Rabbits, roasted, 260. - - Raspberry jam, 548. - - Raspberries, preserved, 566. - - Raspberry vinegar, 599. - - Rhubarb tarts, 618. - - Rice cups, 453. - - Rice pie, 298. - - Rice pudding, baked, 452. - - Rice pudding, boiled, 453. - - Rennets, 622. - - Ripe peach sauce, 340. - - Rissole patties, 198. - - Rockfish, 82. - - Reed birds, 308. - - Rolls, 435. - - Rolled pudding, 459. - - Roman punch, 514. - - Rusk, 438. - - Rusks, (dry,) 439. - - - S. - - Sage and onion sauce, 319. - - Sago, 592. - - Sago pudding, 593. - - Salad, (chicken,) 384. - - Sally Lunn, 430. - - Salsify fritters, 355. - - Salsify oysters, 356. - - Salmi of partridges, 302. - - Salmon, 90. - - Salmon, baked, 93. - - Salmon, boiled, 91. - - Salmon, broiled, 94. - - Salmon cutlets, 94. - - Salmon, pickled, 95. - - Salmon, roasted, 93. - - Salmon trout, 101. - - Sandwiches, 173. - - Sausages, (Bologna,) 232. - - Sausage meat, 231. - - Sausage dumplings, 231. - - Sauce, apple, 338. - - Sauce, apple, baked, 339. - - Sauce, apple, dried, 341. - - Sauce, dried peach, 341. - - Sauce, (broccoli,) 318. - - Sauce, (cauliflower,) 318. - - Sauce, chestnut, 343. - - Sauce, (celery,) 316. - - Sauce, (clam,) 315. - - Sauce, (cranberry,) 337. - - Sauce, (damson,) 342. - - Sauce, (egg,) 316. - - Sauce, (fennel,) 319. - - Sauce, (gooseberry,) 339. - - Sauce, (lobster,) 137, 313. - - Sauce, mint, 317. - - Sauce, mushroom, 321. - - Sauce, (nasturtion,) 321. - - Sauce, (onion,) plain, 321. - - Sauce, (onion,) fine, 320. - - Sauce, (onion and sage,) 319. - - Sauce, (oyster,) 315. - - Sauce, (parsley,) 318. - - Sauce, pea-nut, 343. - - Sauce, (peach,) ripe, 340. - - Sauce, (prune,) 342. - - Sauce, (pink,) 334. - - Sauce, (pudding,) fine, 335. - - Sauce, (pudding,) plain, 336. - - Sauce, Robert, 330. - - Sauce, (shrimp,) 314. - - Sauce, (vanilla,) 336. - - Sauce, (wine,) 334. - - Sausage dumplings, 231. - - Sausage and veal pie, 232. - - Scolloped tomatos, 365. - - Scotch cake, 535. - - Seabass with tomatos, 101. - - Sea-coast pie, 127. - - Shad, to keep without corning, 105. - - Shad, planked, 106. - - Shells, 471. - - Sherry cobbler, 609. - - Short cake, 427. - - Shrimps, 137. - - Siberian jelly, 493. - - Silver cake, 531. - - Smelts, fried, 86. - - Smelts for invalids, 594. - - Soft crabs, 122. - - Soft crullers, 442. - - Soft muffins, 429. - - Soufflé, (omelet,) 501. - - Soups, 33. - - Soup, almond, 58. - - Soup, asparagus, 44. - - Soup, autumn, 61. - - Soup, baked, 76. - - Soup, bean, 42. - - Soup, (cabbage,) 45. - - Soup, red cabbage, 45. - - Soup, fine cabbage, 46. - - Soup, cauliflower, 47. - - Soup, clam, 74. - - Soup, cocoa-nut, 57. - - Soup, crab, 72. - - Soup, corn, 38. - - Soup, carrot, 50. - - Soup, chestnut, 50. - - Soup, chicken, 55. - - Soup, duck, 56. - - Soup, fast-day, 74. - - Soup, fish, 71. - - Soup, French white, 56. - - Soup, Friday, 75. - - Soup, game, 68. - - Soup, green peas, 41. - - Soup, lobster, 71. - - Soup, mock turtle, 69. - - Soup, mushroom, 37. - - Soup, noodle, 54. - - Soup, onion, 47. - - Soup, oyster, 73. - - Soup, parsnip, 49. - - Soup, pea, green, 41. - - Soup, peas, split, 43. - - Soup, pepper-pot, 53. - - Soup, portable, 51. - - Soup, pot-au-feu, 64. - - Soup, potato, 50. - - Soup, spring, 59. - - Soup, summer, 60. - - Soup, squatters, 68. - - Soup, tomato, 39. - - Soup, family tomato, 40. - - Soup, fine tomato, 40. - - Soup, turnip, 48. - - Soup, vegetable, 63. - - Soup, venison, 39. - - Soup, winter, 62. - - Soup, wild duck, 66. - - Southern stew, 196. - - Sour crout, (French,) 354. - - Soufflé pudding, 620. - - Spanish buns, 525. - - Spinach, 369. - - Sponge cake, 523. - - Squashes or cymlings, 388. - - Stewed smoked beef, 149. - - Stewed calf's head, 205. - - Stewed peas, 366. - - Stewed pumpkin, 389. - - Store sauces, 333. - - Strawberry jam, 549. - - Strawberries, preserved, 563. - - Strawberries in wine, 564. - - Strawberry wine, 564. - - Sweetbreads, baked, 215. - - Sweetbread croquettes, 210. - - Sweetbreads, fricasseed, 210. - - Sweetbreads with cauliflower, 212. - - Sweetbread omelet, 213. - - Sweetbreads with oysters, 214. - - Sweetbreads, to prepare, 209. - - Sweetbreads for invalids, 593. - - Sweetbread pies, 214. - - Sweetbreads, stewed, 214. - - Sweetbreads with tomatos, 211. - - Sweetmeats, 543. - - Sweet potatos, boiled, 380. - - Sweet potatos, baked, 381. - - Sweet potatos, mashed, 381. - - Sweet potatos, stewed, 381. - - Sweet potato pudding, 477. - - Sweet potato cake, 529. - - Sweet potatos, sweetened, 455. - - Sunderlands, 503. - - Sydney Smith's salad dressing, 382. - - - T. - - Taffy, (lemon,) 506. - - Tamarind-water, 591. - - Tapioca, 592. - - Tarragon sauce, 323. - - Tarragon vinegar, 328. - - Tea, 595. - - Thatched house pie, 304. - - Terrapins, 122. - - Terrapins, dressed a new way, 124. - - Terrapin pot-pie, 125. - - Toast and water, 586. - - Toast, buttered, 599. - - Toast, (milk,) 598. - - Tomato catchup, 326. - - Tomato paste, 374. - - Tomatos, pickled, 581. - - Tomatos, preserved green, 559. - - Tomatos, preserved, 558. - - Tomatos with sea-bass, 101. - - Tomato soup, 39. - - Tomato soup, (fine,) 40. - - Tomato soup, (family,) 40. - - Tomato sweetbreads, 211. - - Tongues, 170. - - Tongue, baked, 171. - - Tongue, larded, 172. - - Tongue toast, 172. - - Trifle, 496. - - Tripe, to boil, 167. - - Tripe, to fry, 169. - - Tripe curry, 168. - - Trout, 84. - - Trout, baked, 85. - - Trout, stewed, 85. - - Trout with cream, 102. - - Turbot, baked, 100. - - Turbot, boiled, 99. - - Turkey, boiled, 267. - - Turkey, roasted, 270. - - Turkey with oysters, 269. - - Turkey, boned, 271. - - Turnips, boiled, 382. - - Turnip soup, 48. - - Turtle, to dress, 128. - - Turtle pastry, 131. - - - V. - - Vanilla custards, 484. - - Vanilla sauce, 336. - - Vanilla syrup, 513. - - Veal, 188. - - Veal a-la-mode, 191. - - Veal and bacon, 196. - - Veal broth for the sick, 583. - - Veal cutlets, 195. - - Veal cutlets, in papers, 194. - - Veal fillet, 189. - - Veal fritters, 197. - - Veal kebobbed, 197. - - Veal, (knuckle,) with bacon, 196. - - Veal, hashed, 190. - - Veal loaf, 204. - - Veal, minced, 205. - - Veal pie, 204. - - Veal olives, 207. - - Veal with oysters, 206. - - Veal rissoles, 208. - - Veal steaks, 195. - - Veal and sausage pie, 232. - - Veal, (loin of,) roast, 189. - - Veal, southern stew, 196. - - Veal, (terrapin,) 192. - - Vegetables, 343. - - Vegetable soup, 63. - - Venison, 252. - - Venison ham, 259. - - Venison, hashed, 255. - - Venison pie, (fine,) 255. - - Venison pie, (plain,) 257. - - Venison pot-pie, 258. - - Venison steaks, (broiled,) 253. - - Venison, stewed, 254. - - Venison haunch, (roasted,) 253. - - Venison soup, 39. - - Vinegar, 607. - - Vinegar, (raspberry,) 599. - - Vol-au-vent, 619. - - Vol-au-vent, (sweet,) 620. - - - W. - - Waffles, 441. - - Walnut catchup, 325. - - Walnuts, pickled, 578. - - Washington pudding, 630. - - Warm icing, 519. - - West India cake, 529. - - Whey, 591. - - White thickening, 311. - - White potato pudding, 478. - - Wine jelly, 496. - - Wine sauce, 334. - - Wine, (strawberry,) 564. - - Winter butter, (to make,) 624. - - Winter soup, 62. - - Woodcocks or snipes, to roast, 306. - - - Y. - - Yankee chowder, 88. - - Yankee pumpkin pudding, 390. - - Yeast, (good,) 605. - - Yeast powders, 606. - - -THE END. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Notes - - Some minor obvious typographical errors have been corrected - silently. - - Footnotes have been moved to underneath the paragraph they refer - to so as to not disrupt the flow of the text. - - Missing page numbers are attributed to blank pages in the - original text. - - -Corrections made: - - Pg. 20: "From the Pennslyvania [replaced with Pennsylvania]" - - Pg. 65: "his excellent pot a [replaced with "au"] feu" - - Pg. 146: "aid [replaced with "laid"] it a while in cold" - - Pg. 201: "for any thing that has ham [added "in"] it," - - Pg. 202: "Taragon [replaced with "Tarragon"] vinegar is best." - - Pg. 293: "a dish of beiled [replaced with "boiled"] rice to be - eaten" - - Pg. 338: "looks very meanly--and thstes [replaced with "tastes"] - so." - - Pg. 348: "beat them with a wooden spoon to reder [replaced with - "render"] them very light." - - Pg. 464: "If you have a coo [last letter cut off, replaced with - "cool"] hand," - - Pg. 493: "loosened by wrapping round their ousides [replaced - with "outsides"] cloths" - - Pg. 496: "either port, madeira, or chamaigne [replaced with - "champagne"]" - - Pg. 496: "except as some exhiliration [replaced with - "exhilaration"]" - - Pg. 536: "Ground-nut macaroon [replaced with "macaroons"] are made - in the same manner." - - Pg. 563: "stirring down to the bottom after evey [replaced with - "every"] skimming," - - Pg. 575: "Brocoli [replaced with "Broccoli"] is done in the same - manner" - - Pg. 583: "as soon as it simmers, [deleted comma] well [added - comma] take it off" - - Pg. 620: "beat and stir the soaked rusk very had [replaced with - "hard"]" - - Marjoram, marjoran (Pg. 357) and majoram (Pp. 90, 95, 602) are - used in the text, these have all been standardised to "marjoram" - as it was used in the majority. - - -The following index entries were corrected (corrections listed below in -square brackets): - - Almond and macaroon custards, 484 [486] - Almond soup, 53 [58] - Arrow-root biscuit, 303. [603] - Beef, corned, fried, 143. [148] - Bird dumplings, 505. [305] - Birds for invalids, 384. [584] - Boned turkey, 279. [271] - Cheese pudding, 431. [481] - Chocolate, 527. [597] - Cinnamon cake, 440. [528] - Crab fritters, soft, 213. [113] - Crullers, (soft,) 422. [442] - Curry balls, 273. [373] - Doughnuts, 442. [443] - Eggs, scrambled, 612. [614] - Ellen Clarke's pudding, 303. [603] - Farino [Farina] flummery, 589. - French ham pie, 516. [616] - Gravy sippets, 584. [put in correct alphabetical order] - Gravy, to make, 223. [323] - Halibut, fried, 98. [97] - Ham, broiled, 243. [241] - Ice water, (or sherbet,) 523. [513] - Indian corn, to boil, 321. [391] - India pickle, 269. [569] - Indian pudding, (fine,) 428. [incorrect page number, unable to - locate] - Jam, raspberry, 549. [548] - Jelly, (or marmalade,) pudding, 431. [480] - Lamb pie, 189. [187] - Lemon custards, 484. [485] - Lemon syrups, 522. [513] - Meringue pudding, 480. [479] - Mint julep, 608. [610] - Mutton chops, (broiled,) 171. [177] - Orange or lemon syrup, 523. [513] - Pea soup, (green,) 42. [41] - Pork with pea pudding, 280. [230] - Pork steaks, fried, 228. [223] - Pudding, (apple,) 558. [458] - Pudding, (cottage,) 582. [632] - Pudding, (Ellen Clarke's,) 303. [603] - Pudding, lemon or orange, (boiled,) 426. [476] - Pudding, meringue, 480. [479] - Pudding, plum, (plain,) 469. [468] - Pudding, white potato, 476. [478] - Pudding, marmalade or jelly, 431. [480] - Quince pies, 479. [478] - Raspberry vinegar, 509. [599] - Rice pudding, baked, 442. [452] - Rice pudding, boiled, 443. [453] - Rissole patties, 198. [incorrect page number, unable to locate] - Sauce, chestnut, 348. [343] - Sauce, (gooseberry,) 389. [339] - Sauce, (lobster,) 187 [137], 313. - Sauce, pea-nut, 348. [343] - Sausage and veal pie, 282. [232] - Soufflé, (omelet,) 591. [501] - Soup, red cabbage, 46. [45] - Soup, corn, 88. [38] - Soup, oyster, 78. [73] - Soup, pea, green, 42. [41] - Soup, peas, split, 48. [43] - Soup, pepper-pot, 58. [53] - Soup, vegetable, 68. [63] - Stewed smoked beef, 145. [149] - Stewed calf's head, 206. [205] - Sweetbreads for invalids, 598. [593] - Sweet potatos, stewed, 358. [381] - Sweet potato cake, 528. [529] - Tarragon sauce, 223. [323] - Tomatos, pickled, 211. [581] - Tomatos with sea-bass, 365. [101] - Tomato soup, 89. [39] - Tongue toast, 178. [172] - Turtle, to dress, 628. [128] - Vanilla custards, 485. [484] - Vanilla syrup, 523. [513] - Vinegar, (raspberry,) 509. [599] - White potato pudding, 78. [478] - Yankee pumpkin pudding, [390]. - - -Not changed: - - Some entries in the index are not in alphabetical order. - - Inconsistencies in word hyphenation, for example: backbone and - back-bone, table-spoonful and tablespoonful. - - Inconsistencies in section title punctuation. - - All French spelling. - - Pg. 574: "Your may green bell-peppers in the usual way, with - vine leaves or cabbage leaves." [unsure as to the true meaning] - - -Variant spellings left unchanged: - - canvas-back, canvass-back - Ellen Clarke's pudding, Ellen Clark's pudding - inclose, enclose - Indian meal, indian meal - macaroni, maccaroni - marigold, marygold - panada, panade - potato, potatoe - rince, rinse - trevet, trivet - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, by Eliza Leslie - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - -***** This file should be named 40943-8.txt or 40943-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/9/4/40943/ - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book - -Author: Eliza Leslie - -Release Date: October 5, 2012 [EBook #40943] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - - - - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> - </p> - <h1 class="fwnorm"> - MISS LESLIE'S<br /> <span class="fs80c">NEW</span><br /> <span class="fs150c">COOKERY - BOOK.</span> - </h1> - <p class="center"> - <b>One Volume, 652 pages, bound. Price $1.25.</b> - </p> - <p> - T. B. Peterson, No. 102 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, has just published - MISS LESLIE'S "NEW COOKERY BOOK." It comprises new and approved methods of - preparing all kinds of Soups, Fish, Oysters, Beef, Mutton, Veal, Pork, - Venison, Ham and Bacon, Poultry and Game, Terrapins, Turtle, Vegetables, - Sauces, Bread, Pickles, Sweetmeats, Plain Cakes, Fine Cakes, Pies, Plain - Desserts, Fine Desserts, Preparations for the Sick, Puddings, - Confectionery, Rice, Indian Meal Preparations of all kinds, Miscellaneous - Receipts, etc. etc. Also, lists of all articles in season suited to go - together for breakfasts, dinners, and suppers, to suit large or small - families, and much useful information and many miscellaneous subjects - connected with general housewifery. - </p> - <p> - This work will have a very extensive sale, and many thousand copies will - be sold, as all persons that have had Miss Leslie's former works, should - get this at once, as <i>all the receipts in this book are new</i>, and - have been fully tried and tested by the author since the publication of - her former books, <i>and none of them whatever are contained in any other - work but this</i>. It is the most complete Cook Book published in the - world; and also the latest and best, as in addition to Cookery of all - kinds and descriptions, its receipts for making cakes and confectionery - are unequalled by any other work extant. - </p> - <p> - This new, excellent, and valuable Cook Book is published by T. B. - Peterson, under the title of "MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK," and is - entirely different from any other work on similar subjects, under any - other names, by the same author. It is an elegantly printed duodecimo - volume, of 652 pages; and in it there will be found <i>hundreds of - Receipts</i>—all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> - useful—some ornamental—and all invaluable to every lady, miss, - or family in the world. - </p> - <p class="center"> - <b>Read what the Editors of the Leading Newspapers say of it.</b> - </p> - <p class="center"> - <i>From the Philadelphia Dollar Newspaper.</i> - </p> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "This is a large, well-bound volume of near seven hundred pages, and - includes in it hundreds of receipts never before published in any of - Miss Leslie's other works, accompanied by a well-arranged index, by - which any desired receipt may be turned to at once. The receipts are for - cooking all kinds of meats, poultry, game, pies, &c., with - directions for confectionery, ices, and preserves. It is entirely - different from any former work by Miss Leslie, and contains new and - fresh accessions of useful knowledge. The merit of these receipts is, - that they have all been tried, and therefore can be recommended - conscientiously. Miss Leslie has acquired great reputation among - housekeepers for the excellence of her works on cookery, and this volume - will doubtless enhance it. <i>It is the best book on cookery that we - know of</i>, and while it will be useful to matrons, to young housewives - we should think it quite indispensable. By the aid of this book, the - young and inexperienced are brought nearly on a footing with those who - have seen service in the culinary department, and by having it at hand - are rendered tolerably independent of <i>help</i>, which sometimes - becomes very refractory. The best regulated families are sometimes taken - a little by surprise by the untimely stepping in of a friend to dinner—to - such, Miss Leslie is the friend indeed, ready as her book is with - instructions for the hasty production of various substitutes for meals - requiring timely and elaborate preparation." - </p> - </div> - <p class="center"> - <i>From the Philadelphia Daily News.</i> - </p> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "To the housekeeper, the name of Miss Leslie is a guaranty that what - comes from her hand is not only orthodox, but good; and to the young - wife about to enter upon the untried scenes of catering for a family, <i>Miss - Leslie's New Cookery Book</i> may be termed a blessing. It presents - receipts, (and practical ones too,) for preparing and cooking all kinds - of soups, fish, oysters, meats, game, cakes, pastry, and indeed - everything which enters into the economy of housekeeping. Their - recommendations are that they are all practical, and the novice of the - culinary art may enter upon her important duties with '<i>Miss Leslie's - New Cookery Book</i>' by her side, with perfect confidence that the - 'soup' will not be spoiled, and that the dinner will be what is - designed. How many disappointments could be avoided, how many domestic - difficulties prevented, and how many husbands made happy, instead of - miserable, by the use of this '<i>vade mecum</i>,' we shall not pretend - to say; but as we have a sincere regard for every lady who reads the <i>News</i>, - our advice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> - to them all is, by all means to buy <i>Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book</i>. - Mr. Peterson has done admirably in getting up this work: it is - handsomely and substantially bound in cloth, gilt, and does credit to - his business skill; the low price at which the work is sold, when we - take the size of it into consideration, One Dollar and Twenty-five cents - only, will doubtless give it an immense sale." - </p> - </div> - <p class="center"> - <i>From the Philadelphia Saturday Courier.</i> - </p> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "With such a book as <i>Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book</i>, published by - Mr. Peterson, it is inconceivable what a vast extent of palate is - destined to be astonished, and what a gastronomic multitude is to be - made happy, by the delicious delicacies and substantial dishes so - abundantly provided. Miss Leslie has in previous works shown how great - an adept she has been in all culinary matters, and in all that relates - to the comforts and the social enjoyment of the table around which - cluster the good things of life. Literature is very good in its way; but - such dishes as Miss Leslie gives a foretaste of, come up to a more - delicious standard. Her authorship is exquisite, and is destined to - diffuse the very essence of good taste among the fortunate people who - sit down to good dinners and suppers, not one of whom will rise from the - table without a blessing on <i>Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book</i>. And - every taste is sure to be pleased, for all the receipts in this book are - new, and to be found nowhere else, <i>and it is the best Cook Book ever - published</i>—one which, with its hundreds of receipts, ought to - be in the hands of every woman who has the slightest appreciation of - convenience, comfort and economy." - </p> - </div> - <p class="center"> - <i>From the Philadelphia Daily Sun.</i> - </p> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "About one thousand new receipts, never before printed, appear in this - work, all of which have been tried before they are recommended by the - author. All kinds of cooking and pastry; rules for the preparation of - dinners, breakfasts, and suppers; appropriate dishes for every meal; and - a vast quantity of other useful information, are embraced in the book. - It is very comprehensive, and is furnished with an index for the use of - the housewife. By the aid of Miss Leslie's peculiar happy talent in - giving culinary directions, our girls can acquire a branch of useful - information which is generally sadly neglected in their education, and - thus become fitted for their duties as wives. One great advantage in <i>Miss - Leslie's New Cookery Book</i>, is the economy which it teaches in the - management of a household, as regards the preparations for the table. - Peterson has done this book up in beautiful style, and it will be sent - to any part of the Union, postage paid, upon the receipt of One Dollar - and Twenty-five Cents. Those who know how much of the happiness of home - depends upon well-cooked viands, neatly served up, will thank the - accomplished authoress for this valuable contribution to domestic - science." - </p> - </div> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> - </p> - <p class="center"> - <i>From the Philadelphia Saturday Evening Gazette.</i> - </p> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "Miss Leslie's 'New Receipts for Cooking' is perhaps better known than - any similar collection of receipts. The very elegant volume before us, - entitled '<i>Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book</i>,' is designed as a - sequel and continuation to it, and should be its companion in every - family, as the receipts are all new, and in no instance the same, even - when their titles are similar. It contains directions for plain and - fancy cooking, preserving, pickling; and commencing with soups, gives - entirely new receipts for every course of an excellent dinner, to the - jellies and confectionery of the dessert. Our readers are not strangers - to the accuracy and minuteness of Miss Leslie's receipts, as, since the - first number of the Gazette, she has contributed to our housekeepers' - department. The new receipts in this volume are admirable. Many of them - are modified from French sources, though foreign terms and designations - are avoided. The publisher has brought it out in an extremely tasteful - style, and no family in the world should be without it." - </p> - </div> - <p class="center"> - <i>From the Pennsylvania Inquirer.</i> - </p> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "Mr. T. B. Peterson has just published '<i>Miss Leslie's New Cookery - Book</i>.' This will be a truly popular work. Thousands of copies will - very soon be disposed of, and other thousands will be needed. It - contains directions for cooking, preserving, pickling, and preparing - almost every description of dish: also receipts for preparing farina, - Indian meal, fancy tea-cakes, marmalades, etc. We know of a no more - useful work for families." - </p> - </div> - <p class="center"> - <i>From the Public Ledger.</i> - </p> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "As every woman, whether wife or maid, should be qualified for the - duties of a housekeeper, a work which gives the information which - acquaints her with its most important duties, will no doubt be sought - after by the fair sex. This work is '<i>Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book</i>.' - Get it by all means." - </p> - </div> - <p class="center"> - <i>From the Boston Evening Traveler.</i> - </p> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "We do not claim to be deeply versed in the art of cookery; but a lady, - skilled in the art, to whom we have submitted this work, assures us that - there is nothing like it within the circle of her knowledge; and that - having this, a housekeeper would need no other written guide to the - mysteries of housekeeping. It contains hundreds of new receipts, which - the author has fully tried and tested; and they relate to almost every - conceivable dish—flesh, fish, and fowl, soups, sauces, and - sweetmeats; puddings, pies, and pickles; cakes and confectionery. There - are, too, lists of articles suitable to go together for breakfasts, - dinners and suppers, at different seasons of the year, for plain family - meals, and elaborate company preparations; which must be of great - convenience. Indeed, there appears to be, as our lady friend remarked, - everything in this book that a housekeeper needs to know; and having - this book she would seem to need no other to afford her instruction - about housekeeping." - </p> - </div> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> - </p> - <hr class="c65" /> - <h1 class="disnone"> - MISS LESLIE'S<br /> NEW<br /> COOKERY<br /> BOOK. - </h1> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/005.jpg" width="500" height="517" - alt="MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK." - title="MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK." /> - </div> - <div class="blockquot"> - <p> - "As every woman, whether wife or maid, should be qualified for the - duties of a housekeeper, a work which gives the information which - acquaints her with its most important duties will no doubt be sought - after by the fair sex. This work is '<i>Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book</i>.' - Get it by all means."—<i>Public Ledger.</i> - </p> - </div> - <p class="center mt4 disnone"> - PHILADELPHIA:<br /> T. B. PETERSON NO. 102 CHESTNUT STREET.<br /> 1857. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/005ii.jpg" width="400" height="77" - alt="Publisher's address." title="Publisher's address." /> - </div> - <hr class="c65" /> - <p class="center"> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> - Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by<br /> <br /> - ELIZA LESLIE,<br /> <br /> In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of - the United States, in and for the<br /> Eastern District of Pennsylvania. - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> - </p> - <hr class="c65" /> - <h2> - <a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE. - </h2> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <p> - I have endeavored to render this work a complete manual of domestic - cookery <i>in all its branches</i>. It comprises an unusual number of - pages, and the receipts are all practical, and <i>practicable</i>—being - so carefully and particularly explained as to be easily comprehended by - the merest novice in the art. Also, I flatter myself that most of these - preparations (if faithfully and liberally followed,) will be found very - agreeable to the general taste; always, however, keeping in mind that - every ingredient must be of unexceptionable quality, and that good cooking - cannot be made out of bad marketing. - </p> - <p> - I hope those who consult this book will find themselves at no loss, - whether required to prepare<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" - id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> sumptuous viands "for company," or to furnish - a daily supply of nice dishes for an excellent family table; or plain, yet - wholesome and palatable food where economy is very expedient. - </p> - <p class="right"> - <span class="smcap">Eliza Leslie.</span> - </p> - <p class="ml2"> - <i>Philadelphia, March 28th, 1857.</i> <span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> - </p> - <hr class="c65" /> - <h2> - WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. - </h2> - <p class="center"> - <b>Tested and Arranged by Miss Leslie.</b> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <div class="center"> - <table class="wandm" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="WEIGHTS AND MEASURES"> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Wheat flour - </td> - <td class="left"> - one pound of 16 ounces - </td> - <td class="right"> - is one quart. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Indian meal - </td> - <td class="left"> - one pound 2 ounces - </td> - <td class="right"> - is one quart. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Butter, when soft - </td> - <td class="left"> - one pound 1 ounce - </td> - <td class="right"> - is one quart. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Loaf sugar, broken up, - </td> - <td class="left"> - one pound - </td> - <td class="right"> - is one quart. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - White sugar, powdered, - </td> - <td class="left"> - one pound 1 ounce - </td> - <td class="right"> - is one quart. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Best brown sugar, - </td> - <td class="left"> - one pound 2 ounces - </td> - <td class="right"> - is one quart. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Eggs - </td> - <td class="left"> - ten eggs - </td> - <td class="right"> - weigh one pound. - </td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - <h3 class="wama"> - LIQUID MEASURE. - </h3> - <div class="center"> - <table class="wandm" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="LIQUID MEASURE"> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Four large table-spoonfuls - </td> - <td class="left"> - are - </td> - <td class="right"> - half a jill. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Eight large table-spoonfuls - </td> - <td class="left"> - are - </td> - <td class="right"> - one jill. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Two jills - </td> - <td class="left"> - are - </td> - <td class="right"> - half a pint. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - A common-sized tumbler - </td> - <td class="left"> - holds - </td> - <td class="right"> - half a pint. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - A common-sized wine-glass - </td> - <td class="left"> - holds about - </td> - <td class="right"> - half a jill. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Two pints - </td> - <td class="left"> - are - </td> - <td class="right"> - one quart. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Four quarts - </td> - <td class="left"> - are - </td> - <td class="right"> - one gallon. - </td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - <div class="center"> - <table class="wandm mt1" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="LIQUID MEASURE"> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a common-sized - tea-spoon. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Four table-spoonfuls will generally fill a common-sized wine-glass. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Four wine-glasses will fill a half pint tumbler, or a large - coffee-cup. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half; - sometimes not so much. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - A table-spoonful of salt is about one ounce. - </td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - <h3 class="wama"> - DRY MEASURE. - </h3> - <div class="center"> - <table class="wandm" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="DRY MEASURE"> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Half a gallon - </td> - <td class="left"> - is - </td> - <td class="right"> - a quarter of a peck. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - One gallon - </td> - <td class="left"> - is - </td> - <td class="right"> - half a peck. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Two gallons - </td> - <td class="left"> - are - </td> - <td class="right"> - one peck. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Four gallons - </td> - <td class="left"> - are - </td> - <td class="right"> - half a bushel. - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - Eight gallons - </td> - <td class="left"> - are - </td> - <td class="right"> - one bushel. - </td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - <p class="fs80c ml25c"> - Throughout this book, the pound is avoirdupois weight—sixteen - ounces. - </p> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - <span class="pagenum hidp"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> - </p> - <hr class="c65" /> - <h2> - <a name="GENERAL_CONTENTS" id="GENERAL_CONTENTS"></a>GENERAL CONTENTS. - </h2> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <div class="center"> - <table class="toc" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="GENERAL CONTENTS"> - <tr> - <th class="left"> - - </th> - <th class="right fs80c"> - PAGE - </th> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#SOUPS"><span class="smcap">Soups</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 33 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#FISH"><span class="smcap">Fish</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 77 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#SHELL_FISH"><span class="smcap">Shell-Fish</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 108 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#BEEF"><span class="smcap">Beef</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 138 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#MUTTON"><span class="smcap">Mutton</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 173 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#VEAL"><span class="smcap">Veal</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 188 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#PORK"><span class="smcap">Pork</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 216 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#HAM_etc"><span class="smcap">Ham and Bacon</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 235 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#VENISON"><span class="smcap">Venison</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 252 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#POULTRY_AND_GAME"><span class="smcap">Poultry and Game</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 265 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#SAUCES"><span class="smcap">Sauces</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 309 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#VEGETABLES"><span class="smcap">Vegetables</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 343 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#BREAD_PLAIN_CAKES_etc"><span class="smcap">Bread, Plain - Cakes, etc.</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 401 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#PLAIN_DESSERTS"><span class="smcap">Plain Desserts</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 444 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#FINE_DESSERTS"><span class="smcap">Fine Desserts</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 469 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#FINE_CAKES"><span class="smcap">Fine Cakes</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 516 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#SWEETMEATS"><span class="smcap">Sweetmeats</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 543 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#PICKLES"><span class="smcap">Pickles</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 568 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#PREPARATIONS_FOR_THE_SICK"><span class="smcap">Preparations - for the Sick</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 581 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#MISCELLANEOUS_RECEIPTS"><span class="smcap">Miscellaneous - Receipts</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 595 - </td> - </tr> - <tr> - <td class="left"> - <a href="#WORTH_KNOWING"><span class="smcap">Worth Knowing</span>,</a> - </td> - <td class="right"> - 645 - </td> - </tr> - </table> - </div> - <p> - <span class="pagenum hidp"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> - </p> - <hr class="c65" /> - <h2> - <a name="ANIMALS" id="ANIMALS"></a>ANIMALS - </h2> - <p class="center"> - FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE LARGE ANIMALS ARE - DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS. - </p> - <h3 class="hnmls"> - <i>Beef.</i> - </h3> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/illus-013.jpg" width="406" height="277" alt="Beef." - title="Beef." /> - </div> - <ul> - <li> - 1. Sirloin. - </li> - <li> - 2. Rump. - </li> - <li> - 3. Edge Bone. - </li> - <li> - 4. Buttock. - </li> - <li> - 5. Mouse Buttock. - </li> - <li> - 6. Leg. - </li> - <li> - 7. Thick Flank. - </li> - <li> - 8. Veiny Piece. - </li> - <li> - 9. Thin Flank. - </li> - <li> - 10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs. - </li> - <li> - 11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs. - </li> - <li> - 12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs. - </li> - <li> - 13. Brisket. - </li> - <li> - 14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. - </li> - <li> - 15. Clod. - </li> - <li> - 16. Neck, or Sticking Piece. - </li> - <li> - 17. Shin. - </li> - <li> - 18. Cheek. - </li> - </ul> - <h3 class="hnmls"> - <i>Veal.</i> - </h3> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/illus-013ii.jpg" width="308" height="217" alt="Veal." - title="Veal." /> - </div> - <ul> - <li> - 1. Loin, Best End. - </li> - <li> - 2. Fillet. - </li> - <li> - 3. Loin, Chump End. - </li> - <li> - 4. Hind Knuckle. - </li> - <li> - 5. Neck, Best End. - </li> - <li> - 6. Breast, Best End. - </li> - <li> - 7. Blade Bone. - </li> - <li> - 8. Fore Knuckle. - </li> - <li> - 9. Breast, Brisket End. - </li> - <li> - 10. Neck, Scrag End. - </li> - </ul> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> - </p> - <h3 class="hnmls"> - <i>Mutton.</i> - </h3> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/illus-014.jpg" width="315" height="212" alt="Mutton." - title="Mutton." /> - </div> - <ul> - <li> - 1. Leg. - </li> - <li> - 2. Shoulder. - </li> - <li> - 3. Loin, Best End. - </li> - <li> - 4. Loin, Chump End. - </li> - <li> - 5. Neck, Best End. - </li> - <li> - 6. Breast. - </li> - <li> - 7. Neck, Scrag End. - </li> - <li> - <i>Note.</i>—A Chine is two Loins; and a Saddle is two Loins and - two Necks of the Best End. - </li> - </ul> - <h3 class="hnmls"> - <i>Pork.</i> - </h3> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/illus-014ii.jpg" width="268" height="168" alt="Pork." - title="Pork." /> - </div> - <ul> - <li> - 1. Leg. - </li> - <li> - 2. Hind Loin. - </li> - <li> - 3. Fore Loin. - </li> - <li> - 4. Spare Rib. - </li> - <li> - 5. Hand. - </li> - <li> - 6. Spring. - </li> - </ul> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> - </p> - <h3 class="hnmls"> - <i>Venison.</i> - </h3> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/illus-015.jpg" width="361" height="371" alt="Venison." - title="Venison." /> - </div> - <ul> - <li> - 1. Shoulder. - </li> - <li> - 2. Neck. - </li> - <li> - 3. Haunch. - </li> - <li> - 4. Breast. - </li> - <li> - 5. Scrag. - </li> - </ul> - <p> - <span class="pagenum hidp"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> - </p> - <hr class="c65" /> - <h1> - MISS LESLIE'S<br /> NEW<br /> COOKERY BOOK. - </h1> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="SOUPS" id="SOUPS"></a>SOUPS. - </h2> - <p> - It is impossible to have good soup, without a sufficiency of good meat; - thoroughly boiled, carefully skimmed, and moderately seasoned. Meat that - is too bad for any thing else, is too bad for soup. Cold meat recooked, - adds little to its taste or nourishment, and it is in vain to attempt to - give poor soup a factitious flavor by the disguise of strong spices, or - other substances which are disagreeable or unpalatable to at least one - half the eaters, and frequently unwholesome. Rice and barley add to the - insipidity of weak soups, having no taste of their own. And even if the - meat is good, too large a proportion of water, and too small a quantity of - animal substance will render it flat and vapid. - </p> - <p> - Every family has, or ought to have, some personal knowledge of certain - poor people—people to whom their broken victuals would be - acceptable. Let then the most of their cold, fresh meat be set<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> apart for - those who can ill afford to buy meat in market. To them it will be an - important acquisition; while those who indulge in fine clothes, fine - furniture, &c., had best be consistent, and allow themselves the - nourishment and enjoyment of freshly cooked food for each meal. Therefore - where there is no absolute necessity of doing otherwise, let the soup - always be made of meat bought expressly for the purpose, and of one sort - only, except when the flavor is to be improved by the introduction of ham. - </p> - <p> - In plain cooking, every dish should have a distinct taste of its natural - flavor predominating. Let the soup, for instance, be of beef, mutton, or - veal, but not of all three; and a chicken, being overpowered by the meat, - adds nothing to the general flavor. - </p> - <p> - Soup-meat that has been boiled long enough to extract the juices - thoroughly, becomes too tasteless to furnish, afterwards, a good dish for - the table; with the exception of mutton, which may be eaten very well - after it has done duty in the soup-pot, when it is much liked by many - persons of simple tastes. Few who are accustomed to living at hotels, can - relish hotel soups, which (even in houses where most other things are - unexceptionable), is seldom such as can be approved by persons who are - familiar with good tables. Hotel soups and hotel hashes, (particularly - those that are dignified with French names), are notoriously made of cold - scraps, leavings, and in some houses, are the absolute refuse of the - kitchen. In most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> - cases, the sight of a hotel stock-pot would cause those who saw it, to - forswear soup, &c. - </p> - <p> - If the directions are <i>exactly</i> followed, the soups contained in the - following pages will be found palatable, nutritious, and easily made; but - they require plenty of good ingredients. - </p> - <p> - We have heard French cooks boast of their soup being "delicate." The - English would call it "soup meagre." In such a country as America, where - good things are abundant, there is no necessity of imbibing the flatulency - of weak washy soups. - </p> - <p> - All soups should be boiled slowly at first, that the essence of the meat - may be thoroughly drawn forth. The lid of the pot should be kept close, - unless when it is necessary to remove it for taking off the scum, which - should be done frequently and carefully. If this is neglected, the scum - will boil back again into the soup, spoil it, and make it impure or - muddled. When no more scum arises, and the meat is all in rags, dropping - from the bones, it is time to put in the vegetables, seasoning, &c., - and not till then; and if it should have boiled away too much, then is the - time to add a little <i>hot</i> water from another kettle. Add also a - large crust of bread or two. It may now be made to boil faster, and the - thickening must be put in. This is a table-spoonful or more of flour mixed - to a smooth paste with a little water, and enriched with a tea-spoonful of - good butter, or beef-dripping. This thickening is indispensable to all - soups. Let it be stirred in well. If making<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> a rich soup that requires wine - or catchup, let it be added the last thing, just before the soup is taken - from the fire. - </p> - <p> - When all is quite done and thoroughly boiled, cover the bottom of a tureen - with small squares of bread or toast, and dip or pour the soup into it, - leaving all the bones and shreds of meat in the pot. To let any of the - sediment get into the tureen is slovenly and vulgar. Not a particle of - this should ever be found in a soup-plate. There are cooks who, if not - prevented, will put all the refuse into the tureen; so that, when helped, - the plates are half full of shreds of meat and scraps of bone, while all - the best of the soup is kept back for the kitchen. This should be looked - to. Servants who cannot reconcile it to their conscience to steal money or - any very valuable articles, have frequently no hesitation in purloining or - keeping to themselves whatever they like in the way of food. - </p> - <p> - Soup may be colored yellow with grated carrots, red with tomato juice, and - green with the juice of pounded spinach—the coloring to be stirred - in after the skimming is over. These colorings are improvements both to - its look and flavor. It may be browned with scorched flour, kept ready - always for the purpose. Never put cloves or allspice into soup—they - give it a blackish ashy dirt color, and their taste is so strong as to - overpower every thing else. Both these coarse spices are out of use at - good tables, and none are introduced<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" - id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> in nice cookery but mace, nutmeg, ginger, and - cinnamon. - </p> - <p> - The meat boiled in soup gives out more of its essence, when cut off the - bone, and divided into small pieces, always removing the fat. The bones, - however, should go in, as they contain much glutinous substance, adding to - the strength and thickness of the soup, which cannot be palatable or - wholesome unless all the grease is carefully skimmed off. Kitchen grease - is used chiefly for soap-fat. - </p> - <p> - In cold weather, good soup, if carefully covered and kept in a cool place, - and boiled over again for half an hour <i>without</i> any <i>additional - water</i>, will be better on the second day than on the first. - </p> - <p> - It is an excellent way in winter to boil the meat and bones on the first - day, without any vegetables. Then, when very thick and rich, strain the - liquid into a large pan; cover it, and set it away till next morning—it - should then be found a thick jelly. Cut it in pieces, having scraped off - the sediment from the bottom—then add the vegetables, and boil them - in the soup. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUSHROOM SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut a knuckle of veal, or a neck of mutton, (or both, if they are small,) - into large pieces, and remove the bones. Put it into a soup-pot with - sufficient water to cover the whole, and season with a little salt and - cayenne. Let it boil till the meat is in rags, skimming it well; then - strain off the soup into another pot.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> Have ready a large quart, or a - quart and a pint of freshly-gathered mushrooms—cut them into - quarters, having removed the stalks. Put them into the soup, adding a - quarter of a pound (or more) of fresh butter, divided into bits and rolled - in flour. Boil the whole about half an hour longer—try if the - mushrooms are tender, and do not take them up till they are perfectly so. - Keep the pot lid closely covered, except when you remove the lid to try - the mushrooms. Lay at the bottom of the tureen a large slice of buttered - toast, (cut into small squares,) and pour the soup upon it. This is a - company soup. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEET CORN SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a knuckle of veal, and a set of calf's feet. Put them into a soup-pot - with some cold boiled ham cut into pieces, and season them with pepper - only. Having allowed a quart of water to each pound of meat, pour it on, - and let it boil till the meat falls from the bone; strain it, and pour the - liquid into a clean pot. If you live in the country, or where milk is - plenty, make this soup of milk without any water. All white soups are best - of milk. You may boil in this, with the veal and feet, an old fowl, (cut - into pieces,) that is too tough for any other purpose. When the soup is - well boiled, and the shreds all strained away, have ready (cooked by - themselves in another pot) some ears of sweet corn, young and tender. Cut - the grains from the cob, mix the corn with fresh butter, sea<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>son it with - pepper, and stir it in the strained soup. Give the whole a short boil, - pour it into the tureen, and send it to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VENISON SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Is excellent, made as above, with water instead of milk, and plenty of - corn. And it is very convenient for a new settlement. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TOMATO SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a shin or leg of beef, and cut off all the meat. Put it, with the - bones, in a large soup-pot, and season it slightly with salt and pepper. - Pour on a gallon of water. Boil and skim it well. Have ready half a peck - of ripe tomatos, that have been quartered, and pressed or strained through - a sieve, so as to be reduced to a pulp. Add half a dozen onions that have - been sliced, and a table-spoonful of sugar to lessen a little the acid of - the tomatos. When the meat is all to rags, and the whole thoroughly done, - (which will not be in less than six hours from the commencement) strain it - through a cullender, and thicken it a little with grated bread crumbs. - </p> - <p> - This soup will be much improved by the addition of a half peck of ochras, - peeled, sliced thin, and boiled with the tomatos till quite dissolved. - </p> - <p> - Before it goes into the tureen, see that there are no shreds of meat or - bits of bone left in the soup.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" - id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FAMILY TOMATO SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take four pounds of the lean of a good piece of fresh beef. The fat is of - no use for soup, as it must be skimmed off when boiling. Cut the meat in - pieces, season them with a little salt and pepper, and put them into a pot - with three quarts of water. The tomatos will supply abundance of liquid. - Of these you should have a large quarter of a peck. They should be - full-grown, and quite ripe. Cut each tomato into four pieces, and put them - into the soup; after it has come to a boil and been skimmed. It will be - greatly improved by adding a quarter of a peck of ochras cut into thin - round slices. Both tomatos and ochras require long and steady boiling with - the meat. To lessen the extreme acid of the tomatos, stir in a heaped - table-spoonful of sugar. Add also one large onion, peeled and minced - small; and add two or three bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. The soup - must boil till the meat is all to rags and the tomatos and ochras entirely - dissolved, and their forms undistinguishable. Pour it off carefully from - the sediment into the tureen, in the bottom of which have ready some - toasted bread, cut into small squares. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE TOMATO SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some nice fresh beef, and divest it of the bone and fat. Sprinkle it - with a little salt and pepper, and pour on water, allowing to each pound - of meat a pint and a half (not more) of water, and boil and skim it till - it is very thick and clear, and all the essence seems to<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> be drawn - out of the meat. Scald and peel a large portion of ripe tomatos—cut - them in quarters, and laying them in a stew-pan, let them cook in their - own juice till they are entirely dissolved. When quite done, strain the - tomato liquid, and stir into it a little sugar. In a third pan stew an - equal quantity of sliced ochras with a very little water; they must be - stewed till their shape can no longer be discerned. Strain separately the - meat liquor, the tomatos, and the ochras. Mix butter and flour together - into a lump; knead it a little, and when all the liquids are done and - strained put them into a clean soup-pan, stir in the flour and butter, and - give the soup one boil up. Transfer it to your tureen, and stir - altogether. The soup made precisely as above will be perfectly smooth and - nice. Have little rolls or milk biscuits to eat with it. - </p> - <p> - This is a tomato soup for dinner company. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GREEN PEA SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a nice soup, in the usual way, of beef, mutton, or knuckle of veal, - cutting off all the fat, and using only the lean and the bones, allowing a - quart of water to each pound of meat. If the meat is veal, add four or six - calf's feet, which will greatly improve the soup. Boil it slowly, (having - slightly seasoned it with pepper and salt,) and when it has boiled, and - been well skimmed, and no more scum appears, then put in a quart or more - of freshly-shelled green peas, with none among them that are old,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> hard, and - yellow; and also a sprig or two of green mint, and a little loaf sugar. - Boil the peas till they are entirely dissolved. Then (having removed all - the meat and bones) strain the soup through a sieve, and return it to the - soup-pot, (which, in the mean time, should have been washed clean,) and - stir into it a tea-cupful of green spinach juice, (obtained by pounding - some spinach.) Have ready (boiled, or rather stewed in another pot) a - quart of young fresh peas, enriched with a piece of fresh butter. These - last peas should be boiled tender, but not to a mash. After they are in, - give the soup another boil up, and then pour it off into a tureen, in the - bottom of which has been laid some toast cut into square bits, with the - crust removed. This soup should be of a fine green color, and very thick. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EXCELLENT BEAN SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Early in the evening of the day before you make the soup, wash clean a - large quart of dried white beans in a pan of cold water, and about bedtime - pour off that water, and replace it with a fresh panful. Next morning, put - on the beans to boil, with only water enough to cook them well, and keep - them boiling slowly till they have all bursted, stirring them up - frequently from the bottom, lest they should burn. Meantime, prepare in a - larger pot, a good soup made of a shin of beef cut into pieces, and the - hock of a cold ham, allowing a large quart of water to each pound of meat.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Season it with pepper only, (no salt,) and put in with it a head of - celery, split and cut small. Boil the soup (skimming it well) till the - meat is all in rags; then take it out, leaving not a morsel in the pot, - and put in the boiled beans. Let them boil in the soup till they are - undistinguishable, and the soup very thick. Put some small squares of - toast in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup upon it. - </p> - <p> - There is said to be nothing better for making soup than the camp-kettle of - the army. Many of the common soldiers make their bean soup of surpassing - excellence. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SPLIT PEA SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - In buying dried or split peas, see that they are not old and worm-eaten. - Wash two quarts of them over night in two or three waters. In the morning - make a rich soup of the lean of beef or mutton, and the hock of a ham. - Season it with pepper, but no salt. When it has boiled, and been - thoroughly skimmed, put in the split peas, with a head of celery cut into - small pieces, or else two table-spoonfuls of celery seed. Let it boil till - the peas are entirely dissolved and undistinguishable. When it is finished - strain the soup through a sieve, divesting it of the thin shreds of meat - and bits of bone. Then transfer it to a tureen, in which has been laid - some square bits of toast. Stir it up to the bottom directly before it - goes to table. - </p> - <p> - You may boil in the soup (instead of the ham) a<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> good piece (a rib piece, or a - fillet) of corned pork, more lean than fat. When it is done, take the pork - out of the soup, put it on a dish, and have ready to eat with it a pease - pudding boiled by itself, cut in thick slices and laid round the pork. - This pudding is made of a quart of split peas, soaked all night, mixed - with four beaten eggs and a piece of fresh butter, and tied in a cloth and - boiled three or four hours, or till the peas have become a mass. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ASPARAGUS SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make in the usual way a nice rich soup of beef or mutton, seasoned with - salt and pepper. After it has been well boiled and skimmed, and the meat - is all to pieces, strain the soup into another pot, or wash out the same, - and return to it the liquid. Have ready a large quantity of fine fresh - asparagus, with the stalks cut off close to the green tops or blossoms. It - should have been lying in cold water all the time the meat was boiling. - Put into the soup half of the asparagus tops, and boil them in it till - entirely dissolved, adding a tea-cupful of spinach juice, obtained by - pounding fresh spinach in a mortar. Stir the juice well in and it will - give a fine green color. Then add the remaining half of the asparagus; - having previously boiled them in a small pan by themselves, till they are - quite tender, but not till they lose their shape. Give the whole one boil - up together. Make some nice slices of toast, (having cut off the crust.) - Dip<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> - them a minute in hot water. Butter them, lay them in the bottom of the - tureen, and pour the soup upon them. This (like green peas) will do for - company soup. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CABBAGE SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Remove the fat and bone from a good piece of fresh beef, or mutton—season - it with a little salt and pepper, put it into a soup-pot, with a quart of - water allowed to each pound of meat. Boil, and skim it till no more scum - is seen on the surface. Then strain it, and thicken it with flour and - butter mixed. Have ready a fine fresh cabbage, (a young summer one is - best) and after it is well washed through two cold waters, and all the - leaves examined to see if any insects have crept between, quarter the - cabbage, (removing the stalk) and with a cabbage-cutter, or a strong sharp - knife, cut it into shreds. Or you may begin the cabbage whole and cut it - into shreds, spirally, going round and round it with the knife. Put the - cabbage into the clear soup, and boil it till, upon trial, by taking up a - little on a fork, you find it quite tender and perfectly well cooked. Then - serve it up in the tureen. This is a family soup. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RED CABBAGE SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Red cabbages for soup should either be quartered, or cut into shreds; it - is made as above, of beef or mutton, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and a - jill of strong tarra<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>gon - vinegar, or a table-spoonful of mixed tarragon leaves, if in summer. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE CABBAGE SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Remove the outside leaves from a fine, fresh, large cabbage. Cut the stalk - short, and split it half-way down so as to divide the cabbage into - quarters, but do not separate it quite to the bottom. Wash the cabbage, - and lay it in cold water for half an hour or more. Then set it over the - fire in a pot full of water, adding a little salt, and let it boil slowly - for an hour and a half, or more—skimming it well. Then take it out, - drain it, and laying it in a deep pan, pour on <i>cold</i> water, and let - it remain till the cabbage is cold all through. Next, having drained it - from the cold water, cut the cabbage in shreds, (as for cold-slaw,) and - put it into a clean pot containing a quart and a pint of boiling milk into - which you have stirred a quarter of a pound of nice fresh butter, divided - into four bits and rolled in flour, adding a little pepper and a very - little salt. Boil it in the milk till thoroughly done and quite tender. - Then make some nice toast, cut it into squares, lay it in the bottom of a - tureen, and pour the soup on it. This being made without meat is a good - soup for Lent. It will be improved by stirring in, towards the last, two - or three beaten eggs.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAULIFLOWER SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put into a soup-pot a knuckle of veal, and allow to each pound a quart of - water. Add a set of calf's feet that have been singed and scraped, but not - skinned; and the hock of a cold boiled ham. Boil it till all the meat is - in rags, and the soup very thick, seasoning with cayenne and a few blades - of mace, and adding, towards the last, some bits of fresh butter rolled in - flour. Boil in another pot, one or two fine cauliflowers. They are best - boiled in milk. When quite done and very tender, drain them, cut off the - largest stalks, and divide the blossoms into small pieces; put them into a - deep covered dish, lay some fresh butter among them, and keep them hot - till the veal soup is boiled to its utmost thickness. Then strain it into - a soup-tureen, and put into it the cauliflower, grating some nutmeg upon - it. This soup will be found very fine, and is an excellent white soup for - company. - </p> - <p> - For Lent this soup may be made without meat, substituting milk, butter, - and flour, and eggs, as in the receipt for fine cabbage soup. Season it - with mace and nutmeg. If made with milk, &c., put no water on it, but - boil the cauliflower in milk from the beginning. This can easily be done - where milk is plenty. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE ONION SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a fine fresh neck of mutton, and to make a large tureen of soup, you - must have a breast of mutton also. Let the meat be divided into chops, - season it with a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> - salt, and put it in a soup-pot—allow a quart of water to each pound - of mutton. Boil, and skim it till no more scum arises, and the meat drops - in rags from the bones. In a small pot boil in milk a dozen large onions, - (or more,) adding pepper, mace, nutmeg, and some bits of fresh butter - rolled in flour. The onions should previously be peeled and sliced. When - they are quite soft, transfer them to the soup, with the milk, &c., in - which they were cooked. Give them one boil in the soup. Then pour it off, - or strain it into the tureen, omitting all the sediment, and bones, and - shreds of meat. Make some nice slices of toast, dipping each in boiling - water, and trimming off all the crust. Cut the toast into small squares, - lay them in the bottom of the tureen, and pour the soup upon them. Where - there is no objection to onions it will be much liked. - </p> - <p> - If milk is plenty use it instead of water for onion soup. White soups are - always best when made with milk. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TURNIP SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For a very small family take a neck of mutton, and divide it into steaks, - omitting all the fat. For a family of moderate size, take a breast as well - as a neck. Put them into a soup-pot with sufficient water to cover them, - and let them stew till well browned. Skim them carefully. Then pour on - more water, in the proportion of a pint to each pound of meat, and add - eight or ten turnips pared and sliced thin, with a<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> very little pepper and salt. - Let the soup boil till the turnips are all dissolved, and the meat in - rags. Add, towards the last, some bits of butter rolled in flour, and in - five minutes afterwards the soup will be done. Carefully remove all the - bits of meat and bone before you send the soup to table. It will be found - very good, and highly flavored with the turnips. - </p> - <p> - Onion soup may be made in the same manner. Parsnip soup also, cutting the - parsnips into small bits. Or all three—turnips, onions and parsnips, - may be used together. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PARSNIP SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The meat for this soup may either be fresh beef, mutton, or fresh venison. - Remove the fat, cut the meat into pieces, add a little salt, and put it - into a soup-pot, with an allowance of rather less than a quart of water to - each pound. Prepare some fine large parsnips, by first scraping and - splitting them, and cutting them into pieces; then putting them into a - frying pan, and frying them brown, in fresh butter or nice drippings. When - the soup has been boiled till the meat is all in rags, and well skimmed—put - into it the fried parsnips and let them boil about ten minutes, but not - till they break or go to pieces. Just before you put in the parsnips, stir - in a table-spoonful of thickening made with butter and flour, mixed to a - smooth paste. When you put it into the tureen to go to table, be sure to - leave in the pot all the shreds of meat and bits of bone.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CARROT SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a good piece of fresh beef that has not been previously cooked. - Remove the fat. It is of no use in making soup; and as it must all be - skimmed off when boiling, it is better to clear it away before the meat - goes into the pot. Season the beef with a very little salt and pepper, and - allow a small quart of water to each pound. Grate half a dozen or more - large carrots on a coarse grater, and put them to boil in the soup with - some other carrots; cut them into pieces about two inches long. When all - the meat is boiled to rags, and has left the bone, pour off the soup from - the sediment, transferring it to a tureen, and sending it to table with - bread cut into it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POTATO SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pare and slice thin half a dozen fine potatos and a small onion. Boil them - in three large pints of water, till so soft that you can pulp them through - a cullender. When returned to the pot add a very little salt and cayenne, - and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into bits, and boil it - ten minutes longer. When you put it into the tureen, stir in two - table-spoonfuls or more of good cream. This is a soup for fast-days, or - for invalids. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHESTNUT SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make, in the best manner, a soup of the lean of fresh beef, mutton, or - venison, (seasoned with cayenne and a little salt,) allowing rather less - than a quart of water to each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" - id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> pound of meat, skimming and boiling it well, - till the meat is all in rags, and drops from the bone. Strain it, and put - it into a clean pot. Have ready a quart or more of large chestnuts, boiled - and peeled. If roasted, they will be still better. They should be the - large Spanish chestnuts. Put the chestnuts into the soup, with some small - bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Boil the soup ten minutes longer, - before it goes to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORTABLE SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a very good and nutritious soup, made first into a jelly, and then - congealed into hard cakes, resembling glue. If well made, it will keep for - many months in a cool, dry place, and when dissolved in hot water or - gravy, will afford a fine liquid soup, very convenient to carry in a box - on a journey or sea voyage, or to use in a remote place, where fresh meat - for soup is not to be had. A piece of this glue, the size of a large - walnut, will, when melted in water, become a pint bowl of soup; or by - using less water, you may have it much richer. If there is time and - opportunity, boil with the piece of soup a seasoning of sliced onion, - sweet marjoram, sweet basil, or any herbs you choose. Also, a bit of - butter rolled in flour. - </p> - <p> - To make portable soup, take two shins or legs of beef, two knuckles of - veal, and four unskinned calves' feet. Have the bones broken or cracked. - Put the whole into a large clean pot that will hold four gallons of water. - Pour in, at beginning,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> - only as much water as will cover the meat well, and set it over the fire, - to heat gradually till it almost boils. Watch and skim it carefully while - any scum rises. Then pour in a quart of cold water to make it throw up all - the remaining scum, and then let it come to a good boil, continuing to - skim as long as the least scum appears. In this be particular. When the - liquid appears perfectly clear and free from grease, pour in the remainder - of the water, and let it boil very gently for eight hours. Strain it - through a very clean hair sieve into a large stoneware pan, and set it - where it will cool quickly. Next day, remove all the remaining grease, and - pour the liquid, as quickly as possible, into a three-gallon stew-pan, - taking care not to disturb the settlings at the bottom. Keep the pan - uncovered, and let it boil as fast as possible over a quick fire. Next, - transfer it to a three-quart stew-pan, and skim it again, if necessary. - Watch it well, and see that it does not burn, as that would spoil the - whole. Take out a little in a spoon, and hold it in the air, to see if it - will jelly. If it will not, boil it a little longer. Till it jellies, it - is not done. - </p> - <p> - Have ready some small white ware preserve pots, clean, and quite dry. Fill - them with the soup, and let them stand undisturbed till next day. Set, - over a slow fire, a large flat-bottomed stew-pan, one-third filled with - boiling water. Place in it the pots of soup, seeing it does not reach - within two inches of their rims. Let the pots stand uncovered in this - water, hot, but without<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> - boiling, for six or seven hours. This will bring the soup to a proper - thickness, which should be that of a stiff jelly, when hot; and when cold, - it should be like hard glue. When finished turn out the moulds of soup, - and wrap them up separately in new brownish paper, and put them up in - boxes, breaking off a piece when wanted to dissolve the soup. - </p> - <p> - Portable soup may be improved by the addition of three pounds of nice lean - beef, to the shins, knuckles, calves' feet, &c. The beef must be cut - into bits. - </p> - <p> - If you have any friends going the overland journey to the Pacific, a box - of portable soup may be a most useful present to them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PEPPER-POT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready a small half pound of very nice white tripe, that has been - thoroughly boiled and skinned, in a pot by itself, till quite soft and - tender. It should be cut into very small strips or mouthfuls. Put into - another pot a neck of mutton, and a pound of lean ham, and pour on it a - large gallon of water. Boil it slowly, and skim it. When the scum has - ceased to rise, put in two large onions sliced, four potatos quartered, - and four sliced turnips. Season with a very small piece of red pepper or - capsicum, taking care not to make it too hot. Then add the boiled tripe. - Make a quart bowlful of small dumplings of butter and flour, mixed with a - very little water; and throw them into the pepper-pot,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> which should afterwards boil - about an hour. Then take it up, and remove the meat before it is put into - the tureen. Leave in the bits of tripe. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - NOODLE SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This soup may be made with either beef or mutton, but the meat must be - fresh for the purpose, and not cold meat, re-cooked. Cut off all the fat, - and break the bones. If boiled in the soup they improve it. To each pound - of meat allow a small quart of water. Boil and skim it, till the meat - drops from the bone. Put in with the meat, after the scum has ceased to - rise, some turnips, carrots and onions, cut in slices, and boil them till - all to pieces. Strain the soup, and return the liquid to a clean pot. Have - ready a large quantity of noodles, (in French <i>nouillés</i>,) and put - them into the strained soup; let them boil in it ten minutes. The noodles - are composed of beaten eggs, made into a paste or dough, with flour and a - very little fresh butter. This paste is rolled out thin into a square - sheet. This sheet is then closely rolled up like a scroll or quire of - thick paper, and then with a sharp knife cut round into shreds, or - shavings, as cabbage is cut for slaw. These cuttings must be dredged with - flour to prevent their sticking. Throw them into the soup while boiling - the second time, and let it boil for ten minutes longer.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHICKEN SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up two large fine fowls, as if carving them for the table, and wash - the pieces in cold water. Take half a dozen thin slices of cold ham, and - lay them in a soup-pot, mixed among the pieces of chicken. Season them - with a very little cayenne, a little nutmeg, and a few blades of mace, but - no salt, as the ham will make it salt enough. Add a head of celery, split - and cut into long bits, a quarter of a pound of butter, divided in two, - and rolled in flour. Pour on three quarts of milk. Set the soup-pot over - the fire, and let it boil rather slowly, skimming it well. When it has - boiled an hour, put in some small round dumplings, made of half a pound of - flour mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter; divide this dough into - equal portions, and roll them in your hands into little balls about the - size of a large hickory nut. The soup must boil till the flesh of the - fowls is loose on the bones, but not till it drops off. Stir in, at the - last, the beaten yolks of three or four eggs; and let the soup remain - about five minutes longer over the fire. Then take it up. Cut off from the - bones the flesh of the fowls, and divide it into mouthfuls. Cut up the - slices of ham in the same manner. Mince the livers and gizzards. Put the - bits of fowl and ham in the bottom of a large tureen, and pour the soup - upon it. - </p> - <p> - This soup will be found excellent, and may be made of large old fowls, - that cannot be cooked in any other way. If they are so old that when the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> soup is - finished they still continue tough, remove them entirely, and do not serve - them up at all. - </p> - <p> - Similar soup may be made of a large old turkey. Also, of four rabbits. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DUCK SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Half roast a pair of fine large tame ducks, keeping them half an hour at - the fire, and saving the gravy, the fat of which must be carefully skimmed - off. Then cut them up; season them with black pepper; and put them into a - soup-pot with four or five small onions sliced thin, a small bunch of - sage, a thin slice of cold ham cut into pieces, a grated nutmeg, and the - yellow rind of a lemon grated. Add the gravy of the ducks. Pour on, - slowly, three quarts of boiling water from a kettle. Cover the soup-pot, - and set it over a moderate fire. Simmer it slowly (skimming it well) for - about four hours, or till the flesh of the ducks is dissolved into small - shreds. When done, strain it through a tureen, the bottom of which is - covered with toasted bread, cut into square dice about two inches in size. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRENCH WHITE SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil a knuckle of veal and four calves' feet in five quarts of water, with - three onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, four heads of white celery - cut small, a table-spoonful of whole pepper, and a <i>small</i> - tea-spoonful of salt, adding five or six large blades of mace. Let it boil - very slowly, till the meat is in rags and<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> has dropped from the bone, and - till the gristle has quite dissolved. Skim it well while boiling. When - done, strain it through a sieve into a tureen, or a deep white-ware pan. - Next day, take off all the fat, and put the jelly (for such it ought to - be) into a clean soup-pot with two ounces of vermicelli, and set it over - the fire. When the vermicelli is dissolved, stir in, gradually, a pint of - thick cream, while the soup is quite hot; but do not let it come to a boil - after the cream is in, lest it should curdle. Cut up one or two French - rolls in the bottom of a tureen, pour in the soup, and send it to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COCOA-NUT SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take eight calves' feet (two sets) that have been scalded and scraped, but - not skinned; and put them into a soup-kettle with six or seven blades of - mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated. Pour on a gallon of water; - cover the kettle, and let it boil very slowly (skimming it well) till the - flesh is reduced to rags and has dropped entirely from the bones. Then - strain it into a broad white-ware pan, and set it away to get cold. When - it has congealed, scrape off the fat and sediment, cut up the cake of - jelly, (or stock,) and put it into a clean porcelain or enameled kettle. - Have ready half a pound of very finely grated cocoa-nut. Mix it with a - pint of cream. If you cannot obtain cream, take rich unskimmed milk, and - add to it three ounces of the best fresh butter divided into three parts, - each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> - bit rolled in arrow-root or rice-flour. Mix it, gradually, with the - cocoa-nut, and add it to the calves-feet-stock in the kettle, seasoned - with a small nutmeg grated. Set it over the fire, and boil it, slowly, - about a quarter of an hour; stirring it well. Then transfer it to a - tureen, and serve it up. Have ready small French rolls, or light milk - biscuit to eat with it; also powdered sugar in case any of the company - should wish to sweeten it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ALMOND SOUP - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - is made in the above manner, substituting pounded almonds for the grated - cocoa-nut. You must have half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, mixed with - two ounces of shelled bitter almonds. After blanching them in hot water, - they must be pounded to a smooth paste (one at a time) in a marble mortar; - adding frequently a little rose-water to prevent their oiling, and - becoming heavy. Or you may use peach-water for this purpose; in which case - omit the bitter almonds, as the peach-water will give the desired flavor. - When the pounded almonds are ready, mix them with the other ingredients, - as above. - </p> - <p> - The calves' feet for these soups should be boiled either very early in the - morning, or the day before. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SPRING SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Unless your dinner hour is very late, the stock for this soup should be - made the day before it is wanted, and set away in a<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> stone pan, closely covered. To - make the stock take a knuckle of veal, break the bones, and cut it into - several pieces. Allow a quart of water to each pound of veal. Put it into - a soup-pot, with a set of calves' feet,<a name="FNanchor_A" id="FNanchor_A"></a><a - href="#Footnote_A" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> and some bits of cold ham, cut - off near the hock. If you have no ham, sprinkle in a tea-spoonful of salt, - and a salt-spoon of cayenne. Place the pot over a <i>moderate</i> fire, - and let it simmer slowly (skimming it well) for several hours, till the - veal is all to rags and the flesh of the calves' feet has dropped in - shreds from the bones. Then strain the soup; and if not wanted that day, - set it away in a stone pan, as above mentioned. - </p> - <p> - Next day have, ready boiled, two quarts or more of green peas, (they must - on no account be old,) and a pint of the green tops cut off from asparagus - boiled for the purpose. Pound a handful of raw spinach till you have - extracted a tea-cupful of the juice. Set the soup or stock over the fire; - add the peas, asparagus, and spinach juice, stirring them well in; also a - quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four bits, and rolled in - flour. Let the whole come to a boil; and then take it off and transfer it - to a tureen. It will be found excellent. - </p> - <p> - In boiling the peas for this soup, you may put with them half a dozen - sprigs of green mint, to be afterwards taken out.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Late in the spring you may add to the other vegetables two cucumbers, - pared and sliced, and the whitest part or heart of a lettuce, boiled - together; then well drained, and put into the soup with the peas and - asparagus. It must be very thick with vegetables. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SUMMER SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large neck of mutton, and hack it so as nearly to cut it apart, but - not quite. Allow a small quart of water to each pound of meat, and - sprinkle on a tea-spoonful of salt and a very little black pepper. Put it - into a soup-pot, and boil it <i>slowly</i> (skimming it well) till the - meat is reduced to rags. Then strain the liquid, return it to the - soup-pot, and carefully remove all the fat from the surface. Have ready - half a dozen small turnips sliced thin, two young onions sliced, a - table-spoonful of sweet marjoram leaves picked from the stalks, and a - quart of shelled Lima beans. Put in the vegetables, and boil them in the - soup till they are thoroughly done. You may add to them two - table-spoonfuls of green nasturtion seeds, either fresh or pickled. Put in - also some little dumplings, (made of flour and butter,) about ten minutes - before the soup is done. - </p> - <p> - Instead of Lima beans, you may divide a cauliflower or two broccolis into - sprigs, and boil them in the soup with the other vegetables. - </p> - <p> - This soup may be made of a shoulder of mutton, cut into pieces and the - bones cracked. For a large<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" - id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> potful add also the breast to the neck, - cutting the bones apart. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - AUTUMN SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Begin this soup as early in the day as possible. Take six pounds of the - lean of fine fresh beef; cut it into small pieces; sprinkle it with a - tea-spoonful of salt, (not more); put it into a soup-pot, and pour on six - quarts of water. The hock of a cold ham will greatly improve it. Set it - over a moderate fire, and let it boil slowly. After it comes to a boil, - skim it well. Have ready a quarter of a peck of ochras cut into very thin - round slices, and a quarter of a peck of tomatos cut into pieces; also a - quart of shelled Lima beans. Season them with pepper. Put them in; and - after the whole has boiled three hours <i>at least</i>, take four ears of - young Indian corn, and having grated off all the grains, add them to the - soup and boil it an hour longer. Before you serve up the soup remove from - it all the bits of meat, which, if the soup is sufficiently cooked, will - be reduced to shreds. - </p> - <p> - You may put in with the ochras and tomatos one or two sliced onions. The - soup, when done, should be as thick as a jelly. - </p> - <p> - Ochras for soup may be kept all winter, by tying them separately to a line - stretched high across the store room.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WINTER SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The day before you make the soup, get a leg or shin of beef. Have the bone - sawed through in several places, and the meat notched or scored down to - the bone. This will cause the juice or essence to come out more freely, - when cooked. Rub it slightly with salt; cover it, and set it away. Next - morning, early as possible, as soon as the fire is well made up, put the - beef into a large soup-pot, allowing to each pound a small quart of water. - Then taste the water, and if the salt that has been rubbed on the meat is - not sufficient, add a very little more. Throw in also a tea-spoonful of - whole pepper-corns; and you may add half a dozen blades of mace. Let it - simmer slowly till it comes to a boil; then skim it well. After it boils, - you may quicken the fire. At nine o'clock put in a large head of cabbage - cut fine as for cold-slaw; six carrots grated; the leaves stripped from a - bunch of sweet marjoram; and the leaves of a sprig of parsley. An hour - afterwards, add six turnips, and three potatoes, all cut into four or - eight pieces. Also two onions, which will be better if previously roasted - brown, and then sliced. Keep the soup boiling steadily, but not hard, - unless the dinner hour is very early. For a late dinner, there will be - time to boil it slowly all the while; and all soups are the better for - long and slow boiling. See that it is well skimmed, so that, when done, - there will be not a particle of fat or scum on the surface. At dinner-time - take it up with a large ladle, and transfer it to a tureen. In doing so, - carefully avoid the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> - shreds of meat and bone. Leave them all in the bottom of the pot, pressing - them down with the ladle. A mass of shreds in the tureen or soup-plate - looks slovenly and disgusting, and should never be seen at the table; - also, they absorb too much of the liquid. Let the vegetables remain in the - soup when it is served up, but pick out every shred of meat or bone that - may be found in the tureen when ready to go to table. - </p> - <p> - In very cold weather, what is left of this soup will keep till the second - day; when it must be simmered again over the fire, till it just comes to a - boil. Put it away in a tin or stone vessel. The lead which is used in - glazing earthen jars frequently communicates its poison to liquids that - are kept in them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEGETABLE SOUP— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>very good</i>.)—Soak all night, in cold water, either two quarts - of yellow split peas, or two quarts of dried white beans. In the morning - drain them, and season them with a very little salt and cayenne, and a - head of minced celery, or else a heaped table-spoonful of celery seed. Put - them into a soup-pot with four quarts of water, and boil them slowly till - they are all dissolved and undistinguishable. Stir them frequently. Have - ready a profuse quantity of fresh vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, - parsnips, potatos, onions, and cauliflowers; also, salsify, and asparagus - tops. Put in, first, the vegetables that require the longest boiling. They - should all be cut<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> - into small pieces. Enrich the whole with some bits of fresh butter rolled - in flour. Boil these vegetables in the soup till they are all quite - tender. Then transfer it to a tureen, and serve it up hot. - </p> - <p> - The foundation being of dried peas or beans, makes it very thick and - smooth, and the fresh vegetables improve its flavor. It is a good soup for - Lent, or for any time, if properly and liberally made. - </p> - <p> - All vegetable soups can be made in Lent without meat, if milk is - substituted for water, and with butter, beaten eggs and spice, to flavor - and enrich it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRENCH POT AU FEU.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is one of the national dishes of France. The following is a genuine - French receipt, and it would be found very palatable and very convenient - if tried in our own land of plenty. The true French way to cook it is in - an earthen pipkin, such as can be had in any pottery shop. The French - vessel has a wide mouth, and close-fitting lid, with a handle at each - side, in the form of circular ears. It is large and swelling in the - middle, and narrows down towards the bottom. The American pipkin has a - short thick spout at one side, and stands on three or four low feet. No - kitchen should be without these vessels, which are cheap, very strong, and - easily kept clean. They can sit on a stove, or in the corner of the fire, - and are excellent for slow cooking. - </p> - <p> - The wife of a French artisan commences her pot au feu soon after - breakfast, prepares the ingre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" - id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>dients, puts them, by degrees, into the pot, - attends to it during the day; and when her husband has done his work she - has ready for him an excellent and substantial repast, far superior to - what in our country is called a <i>tea-dinner</i>. Men frequently - indemnify themselves for the poorness of a tea-dinner by taking a dram of - whiskey afterwards. A Frenchman is satisfied with his excellent pot au feu - and some fruit afterwards. The French are noted as a temperate nation. If - they have eaten to their satisfaction they have little craving for drink. - Yet there is no country in the world where so much good eating might be - had as in America. But to live well, and wholesomely, there should also be - good cooking, and the wives of our artisans must learn to think more of - the comfort, health, and cheerfulness of him who in Scotland is called the - <i>bread-winner</i>, than of their own finery, and their children's - uncomfortable frippery. - </p> - <p> - <i>Receipt.</i>—For a large pot au feu, put into the pipkin six - pounds of good fresh beef cut up, and pour on it four quarts of water. Set - it near the fire, skim it when it simmers, and when nearly boiling, add a - tea-spoonful of salt, half a pound of liver cut in pieces, and some black - pepper. Then add two or three large carrots, sliced or grated on a coarse - grater; four turnips, pared and quartered; eight young onions peeled and - sliced thick, two of the onions roasted whole; a head of celery cut up; a - parsnip split and cut up; and six potatos, pared, sliced, or quartered. In - short any good vegetables now in season, including tomatos in sum<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>mer and - autumn. Also a bunch of sweet herbs, chopped small. Let the whole continue - to boil slowly and <i>steadily</i>; remembering to skim well. Let it - simmer slowly five or six hours. Then, having laid some large slices of - bread in the bottom of a tureen, or a very large pan or bowl, pour the - stew or soup upon it; all the meat, and all the vegetables. If you have - any left, recook it the next morning for breakfast, and <i>that day</i> - you may prepare something else for dinner. - </p> - <p> - For beef you may substitute mutton, or fresh venison, if you live in a - venison country, and can get it newly killed. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WILD DUCK SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a company soup. If you live where wild ducks are abundant, it will - afford an agreeable variety occasionally to make soup of some of them. If - you suspect them to be sedgy or fishy, (you can ascertain by the smell - when drawing or cleaning them,) parboil each duck, with a carrot put into - his body. Then take out the carrot and throw it away. You will find that - the unpleasant flavor has left the ducks, and been entirely absorbed by - the carrots. To make the soup—cut up the ducks, season the pieces - with a little salt and pepper, and lay them in a soup-pot. For a good pot - of soup you should have four wild ducks. Add two or three sliced onions, - and a table-spoonful of minced sage. Also a quarter of a pound of butter - divided into four, and each piece rolled in flour. Pour in water enough to - make a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> - rich soup, and let it boil slowly till all the flesh has left the bones,—skim - it well. Thicken it with boiled or roasted chestnuts, peeled, and then - mashed with a potato beetle. A glass of Madeira or sherry will be found an - improvement, stirred in at the last, or the juice and grated peel of a - lemon. In taking it up for the tureen, be careful to leave all the bones - and bits of meat in the bottom of the pot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VENISON SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large fine piece of freshly killed venison. It is best at the - season when the deer are fat and juicy, from having plenty of wild berries - to feed on. I do not consider winter-venison worth eating, when the meat - is poor and hard, and affords no gravy, and also is black from being kept - too long. When venison is fresh and in good order it yields a fine soup, - allowing a small quart of water to each pound of meat. When it has boiled - well, and been skimmed, put in some small dumplings made of flour and - minced suet, or drippings. Also, boiled sweet potatos, cut into round - thick slices. You may add boiled sweet corn cut off the cob; and, indeed, - whatever vegetables are in season. The soup-meat should boil till all the - flesh is loose on the bones, and the bits and shreds should not be served - up. - </p> - <p> - The best pieces of buffalo make good soup.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GAME SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take partridges, pheasants, grouse, quails, or any of the birds considered - as game. You may put in here as many different sorts as you can procure. - They must all be fresh killed. When they are cleaned and plucked, cut them - in pieces as for carving, and put them into a soup-pot, with four calves' - feet and some slices of ham, two sticks of celery, and a bundle of sweet - herbs chopped small, and water enough to cover the whole well. Boil and - skim well, till all the flesh is loose from the bones. Strain the liquid - through a sieve into a clean pot, then thicken it with fresh butter rolled - in flour. Add some force-meat balls that have been already fried; or else - some hard-boiled yolks of eggs; some currant jelly, or some good wine into - which a half-nutmeg has been grated; the juice of two oranges or lemons, - and the grated yellow peel of one lemon. Give the soup another boil up, - and then send it to table, having bread rolls to eat with it. - </p> - <p> - This is a fine soup for company. Venison soup may be made in this manner. - Hare soup also. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SQUATTER'S SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take plenty of <i>fresh-killed</i> venison, as fat and juicy as you can - get it. Cut the meat off the bones and put it (with the bones) into a - large pot. Season it with pepper and salt, and pour on sufficient water to - make a good rich soup. Boil it slowly (remembering to skim it well) till - the meat is all in rags. Have ready some ears of young sweet corn. Boil - them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span> - in a pot by themselves till they are quite soft. Cut the grains off the - cob into a deep dish. Having cleared the soup from shreds and bits of bone - left at the bottom of the pot, stir in a thickening made of indian meal - mixed to a paste with a little fresh lard, or venison gravy. And - afterwards throw in, by degrees, the cut corn. Let all boil together, till - the corn is soft, or for about half an hour. Then take it up in a large - pan. It will be found very good by persons who never were squatters. This - soup, with a wild turkey or a buffalo hump roasted, and stewed grapes - sweetened well with maple sugar, will make a good backwoods dinner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MOCK TURTLE SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil together a knuckle of veal (cut up) and a set of calves' feet, split. - Also the hock of a cold boiled ham. Season it with cayenne pepper; but the - ham will render it salt enough. You may add a smoked tongue. Allow, to - each pound of meat, a small quart of water. After the meat has come to a - boil and been well skimmed, add half a dozen sliced parsnips, three sliced - onions, and a head of celery cut small, with a large bunch of sweet - marjoram, and two large carrots sliced. Boil all together till the - vegetables are nearly dissolved and the meat falls from the bone. Then - strain the whole through a cullender, and transfer the liquid to a clean - pot. Have ready some fine large sweetbreads that have been soaked in warm - water for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> - an hour till all the blood was disgorged; then transferred to boiling - water for ten minutes, and then taken out and laid in very cold water. - This will blanch them, and all sweetbreads should look white. Take them - out; and remove carefully all the pipe or gristle. Cut the sweetbreads in - pieces or mouthfuls, and put them into the pot of strained soup. Have - ready about two or three dozen (or more) of force-meat balls, made of cold - minced veal and ham seasoned with nutmeg and mace, enriched with butter, - and mixed with grated lemon-peel, bread-crumbs, chopped marjoram and - beaten eggs, to make the whole into smooth balls about the size of a - hickory nut. Throw the balls into the soup, and add a fresh lemon, sliced - thin, and a pint of Madeira wine. Give it one more boil up; then put it - into a tureen and send it to table. - </p> - <p> - This ought to be a rich soup, and is seldom made except for dinner - company. - </p> - <p> - If the above method is <i>exactly</i> followed, there will be found no - necessity for taking the trouble and enduring the disgust and tediousness - of cleaning and preparing a calf's head for mock turtle soup—a very - unpleasant process, which too much resembles the horrors of a dissecting - room. And when all is done a calf's head is a very insipid article. - </p> - <p> - It will be found that the above is superior to any mock turtle. Made of - shin beef, with all these ingredients, it is very rich and fine.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FISH SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - All fish soups should be made with milk, (if unskimmed so much the - better,) using no water whatever. The best fish for soup are the small - sort of cat-fish; also tutaug, porgie, blue fish, white fish, black fish - or sea-bass. Cut off their heads, tails, and fins, and remove the skin, - and the backbone, and cut the fish into pieces. To each pound of fish - allow a quart of rich milk. Put into the soup-pot some pieces of cold - boiled ham. No salt will then be required; but season with cayenne pepper, - and a few blades of mace and some grated nutmeg. Add a bunch of sweet - marjoram, the leaves stripped from the stalks and chopped. Make some - little dumplings of flour and butter, and put them in when the soup is - about half done. Half an hour's steady boiling will be sufficient. Serve - up in the tureen the pieces of fish and ham. Also some toast cut in dice. - </p> - <p> - Soup may be made in this manner, of chickens or rabbits, using always milk - enriched with bits of butter rolled in flour and flavored with bits of - cold ham. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LOBSTER SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a fine soup for company. Take two or three fine fresh lobsters, - (the middle sized are the best.) Heat a large pot of water, throwing in a - large handful of salt. When it is boiling hard put in the lobsters, head - foremost, that they may die immediately. They will require at least half - an hour's fast boiling; if large, three quarters. When done, take<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> them out, - wipe off the scum that has collected on the shell, and drain the lobster. - First break off the large claws, and crack them, then split the body, and - extract all the white meat, and the red coral—nothing else—and - cut it into small pieces. Mash the coral into smooth bits with the back of - a large spoon, mixing with it plenty of sweet oil; and, gradually, adding - it to the bits of chopped lobster. Put into a clear soup-pot two quarts, - or more, of good milk, and thicken it with half a dozen crackers or - butter-biscuit, pounded fine; or the grated crumbs of two or three small - rolls, and stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter made into a paste - with two spoonfuls of flour. Put in the chopped lobster, seasoned with - nutmeg, a few blades of mace powdered, and a little cayenne. Let all boil - together, slowly, for half an hour, keeping it closely covered. Towards - the last, stir in two beaten eggs. Lay some very small soda biscuit in the - bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup upon them. Nasturtion flowers - strewed at the last thickly over the surface of this soup, when in the - tureen, are an improvement both to its appearance and flavor. So is - peppergrass. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CRAB SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the meat of two dozen boiled crabs, cut it small, and give it a boil - in two quarts of milk. Season it with powdered mace, nutmeg, and a little - cayenne, and thicken it with butter mixed in flour; or, make the flour and - butter into little dumplings. Have ready half a dozen<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> yolks of hard-boiled eggs, and - crumble them into the soup just before you take it from the fire. Add the - heart of a fresh green lettuce, cut small and strewed over the surface of - the soup, after it is poured into the tureen. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OYSTER SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Strain the liquor from one hundred oysters, and carefully remove any bits - of shell or particles of sea-weed. To every pint of oyster liquor allow an - equal quantity of rich milk. Season it with whole pepper and some blades - of mace. Add a head of celery, washed, scraped, and minced small. Put the - whole into a soup-pot, and boil and skim it well. When it boils put in the - oysters. Also, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; divide into four - pieces, each piece rolled in flour. If you can procure cream, add a - half-pint, otherwise boil some six eggs hard, and crumble the yolks into - the soup. After the oysters are in give them but one boil up, just - sufficient to plump them. If boiled longer they will shrink and shrivel - and lose their taste. Take them all out and set them away to cool. When - the soup is done, place in the bottom of the tureen some small square - pieces of nicely toasted bread cut into dice, and pour on the soup; grate - in a nutmeg and then add the oysters. Serve it up very hot. - </p> - <p> - Another way is to chop or cut small the oysters, omitting the hard part. - Make the soup as above, and put in the minced oysters at the last, letting - them boil but five minutes. Mix the powdered<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> nutmeg with them. This is a - good way, if you make but a small quantity of soup. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CLAM SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having washed clean the outside shells of a hundred small sand clams, (or - scrubbed them with a brush,) put them into a large pot of boiling water. - When they open their shells take them out with a ladle, and as you do so, - put them into a cullender to drain off the liquor. Then extract the clams - from the shells with a knife. Save a quart of the liquor, putting the - clams in a pitcher by themselves. Mix with the quart of liquor, in a clean - pot, two quarts of rich milk. Put in the clams, and add some pepper-corns - and some blades of mace. Also, a bunch of sweet marjoram, the leaves - stripped off and minced. After all has boiled well for an hour, add half a - pound, or more, of nice fresh butter, made into little dumplings with - flour; also a pint of grated bread-crumbs. Let it boil a quarter of an - hour longer. Then pour the soup off from the clams and leave them in the - bottom of the pot. They will not now be worth eating. If you cannot obtain - small clams, you may cut large ones in pieces, but they are very coarse - and tough. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FAST-DAY SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - <i>For winter.</i>—Having soaked all night two quarts of split peas, - put them into a soup-pot, adding a sliced onion, two heads of celery, the - stalks split and cut small; a table<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" - id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>-spoonful of chopped mint, another of - marjoram, and two beets, that have been previously boiled and sliced. Mix - all these with half a pound of fresh butter cut into pieces and dredged - with flour. Season with a little salt and pepper. Pour on rather more than - water enough to cover the whole. Let them boil till all the things are - quite tender, and the peas dissolved. When done, cover the bottom of a - tureen with small square bits of toast, and pour in the contents of the - soup-pot. - </p> - <p> - It is a good way to boil the split peas in a pot by themselves, till they - are quite dissolved, and then add them to the ingredients in the other - pot. - </p> - <p> - Vegetable soups require a large portion of vegetables, and butter always, - as a substitute for meat. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIDAY SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - <i>For summer.</i>—This is a fast-day soup. Pare and slice six - cucumbers, and cut up the white part or heart of six lettuces; slice two - onions, and cut small the leaves of six sprigs of fresh green mint, unless - mint is disliked by the persons that are to eat the soup; in which case, - substitute parsley. Add a quart of young green peas. Put the whole into a - soup-pot, with as much water as will more than cover them well. Season - slightly with salt and a little cayenne, and add half a pound of nice - fresh butter, divided into six, each piece dredged well with flour. Boil - the whole for an hour and a half. Then serve it up, without straining; - having colored it green with a tea-cup of pounded spinach juice.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - When green peas are out of season, you may substitute tomatos peeled and - quartered. - </p> - <p> - This soup, having no meat, is chiefly for fast days, but will be found - good at any time. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - On the days that you bake bread, you may have a dish of thick soup with - very little trouble, by putting into a large earthen jug or pipkin, or - covered pan, the following articles:—Two pounds of <i>fresh</i> - beef, or mutton, cut into small slices, having first removed the fat; two - sliced onions and four carrots, and four parsnips cut in four; also, four - turnips, six potatos pared and cut up, and half a dozen tomatos, peeled - and quartered. Season the whole with a little salt and pepper. A large - beet, scraped and cut up, will be an improvement. To these things pour on - three quarts of water. Cover the earthen vessel, and set it in the oven - with the bread, and let the soup bake at the same time. - </p> - <p> - If the bread is done before the dinner hour, you must keep the soup still - longer in the oven. - </p> - <p> - Do not use <i>cold</i> meat for this or any other soup, unless you are - very poor.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="FISH" id="FISH"></a>FISH. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO CLEAN FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This must always be done with the greatest care and nicety. If sent to - table imperfectly cleaned, they are disgraceful to the cook, and - disgusting to the sight and taste. Handle the fish lightly; not roughly so - as to bruise it. Wash it well, but do not leave it in the water longer - than is needful. It will lose its flavor, and become insipid, if soaked. - To scale it, lay the fish flat upon one side, holding it firmly in the - left hand, and with the right taking off the scales by means of a knife. - When both sides are done, pour sufficient cold water over it to float off - all the loose scales that may have escaped your notice. It is best to pump - on it. Then proceed to open and empty the fish. Be sure that not the - smallest particle of the entrails is left in. Scrape all carefully from - the backbone. Wash out all the blood from the inside. A dexterous cook can - draw a fish without splitting it entirely down, all the way from head to - tail. Smelts and other small fish are drawn or emptied at the gills. - </p> - <p> - All fish should be cleaned or drawn as soon as they are brought in, and - then kept on ice, till the moment for cooking. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO BOIL FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - No fish can be fit to eat unless the eyes are prominent and lively, the - gills very red, and the body firm and stiff, springing back<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> immediately - when bent round to try them. Every scale must be carefully scraped off, - and the entrails entirely extracted; not the smallest portion being - carelessly left sticking to the backbone. Previous to cooking, fish of - every kind should be laid in cold water, and the blood thoroughly washed - from the inside. Few fish are not the better for being put on to boil in - cold water, heating gradually with it till it comes to a boil. If you put - it on in boiling water, the outside becomes boiling hot too soon; and is - apt to break and come off in flakes, while the inside still remains hard - and underdone: halibut, salmon, cod, and other large thick fish must be - boiled slowly and thoroughly throughout, taking nearly as long as meat. - Always put salt into the water at the commencement, and a little vinegar - towards the last. In every kitchen should be a large oval kettle purposely - for boiling fish. This kettle has a movable strainer inside. The fish lies - on the strainer. To try if it is done, run a thin sharp knife in it, till - it reaches the backbone; and see if the flesh will loosen or separate - easily. If it adheres to the bone it requires more boiling. When quite - done, leave it no longer in the kettle, or it will lose its flavor and get - a woolly look. Take out the strainer with the fish upon it. Drain off the - water through the strainer, cover the fish with a folded napkin or fine - towel, doubled thick; transfer it to a heated dish, and keep it warm and - dry till it goes to table, directly after the soup. In the mean time - prepare the sauce to be served up along with the fish.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRYING FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Fish should be fried in <i>very good</i> fresh butter, or nice beef - drippings; or else in lard, which last, is the most usual method. A large - allowance of lard should be put into the pan, and held over a clear fire, - till it becomes so hot as to boil fast in the pan. Till the lard hisses - and bubbles do not put in the fish. They must first be dried separately in - a clean cloth, and then scored on the back in deep incisions, or gashes, - and slightly dredged with flour. Unless the lard is amply sufficient in - quantity to cover the fish well, and bear them up towards the surface, - they will sink heavily to the bottom of the pan, and perhaps stick there - and burn. Also, if there is not fat enough, the fish will absorb the whole - of what there is, and become dark-colored and greasy. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a dish for company. You may bake in the same manner a shad, a - fresh codfish, a sheep's head, a white fish, or a blue fish, or a pair of - large black fish. Trout also are considered fish for baking. Cut off the - head, and split the fish nearly down to the tail. For a stuffing, cut two - slices of nice light wheat bread, of shape and size to fit easily into the - inside of the fish, and spread them thickly with very new fresh butter. - Season them with cayenne and powdered mace, and moisten them with port - wine or sherry. Add the juice and yellow rind of a lemon, grated; and - sufficient powdered white sugar to take off the extreme acid of the last. - Fill the body of the fish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" - id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> with this stuffing, kept in by tying round - the fish, carefully, a white cotton cord, or tape, so as to confine it in - several places. Lay bits of fresh butter over the outside, at equal - distances. Place the fish on a trivet, in a bake pan, and pour round it a - pint of wine and water mixed. Baste it with this frequently while baking. - It will require at least an hour in a quick oven. If the basting does not - leave sufficient gravy, add half a pint more of wine mixed with a little - hot water. - </p> - <p> - When you have taken up the fish, keep it hot while you are finishing the - gravy, which you should thicken and enrich by stirring in smoothly a piece - of butter mixed slightly into a paste with flour, and seasoned with grated - nutmeg. Serve up the gravy in a sauce-boat, and lay slices of lemon along - the back of the fish, having, of course, removed the string that was wound - around it to confine the stuffing. Send to table with the baked fish, a - dish of potatos mashed with milk and butter, and browned on the surface - with a salamander, or a red hot shovel. Always remove the seeds of lemon - slices. Fresh mackerel may be baked thus. - </p> - <p> - Fish may be baked plainly, with a stuffing of sweet marjoram, minced sage, - and onion, (previously boiled and drained,) a little butter, or finely - chopped beef suet, and plenty of grated bread crumbs, seasoned with a - little black pepper. Or instead of crumbs you may put in slices of bread - and butter soaked in milk, and secured as above from falling out while the - fish is baking.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take any nice fresh fish of moderate size, and when it is drawn and - washed, cut it into three or four pieces, and put them into a stew-pan - with amply sufficient hot water to keep them from burning. Season them - with a little salt and cayenne. After it has simmered steadily for half an - hour, and been skimmed, have ready a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, - mixed into a smooth paste with a heaped table-spoonful of flour. Add this - to the stew, with a bunch of sweet marjoram chopped fine, and a sprig of - chopped parsley. If approved, add a small onion pared and sliced very - thin. Cover it closely, and let it stew another half hour. Then send it to - table. This is a family dish. Any fresh fish may be stewed thus. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SPICED FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cold fish that has been left at dinner is very nice to put away for the - supper table. It should be fresh salmon, fresh cod, rock-fish, halibut, or - the remains of any other large fine fish. Take out the back bone, and cut - the flesh into moderate sized pieces. Lay it in a deep dish that has a - cover. Season the fish with cayenne pepper, a little salt, some grated - nutmeg, and some blades of mace; also some whole black pepper-corns, and - pour over it plenty of good cider vinegar. Tarragon vinegar will be an - improvement. Cover it closely, and set it in a cold place till wanted. If - in spring or summer, set it in ice. - </p> - <p> - We do not recommend cloves or allspice. The taste of those coarse spices - is so overpowering,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> - (and to many persons so unpleasant,) that they are now nearly out of use - at good tables. - </p> - <p> - Nutmeg, mace and ginger, will be found much better, and with cinnamon - occasionally, are sufficient for all spice seasonings. Nevertheless, for - those who like them, a few cloves will relieve the insipidity of halibut. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FISH CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take codfish (either fresh or salt) that has been boiled the day before. - Carefully remove the bones, and mince the flesh. Mix with it a quantity of - warm mashed potatos, (mashed with butter and milk) in the proportion of - one third codfish, and two thirds mashed potatos. Add sufficient beaten - egg to make the whole into a smooth paste. Season it with cayenne; and, if - the mixture seems dry, moisten and enrich it with a little butter. Make it - into cakes about an inch thick, and as large round as the top of a common - sized tea-cup. Or into round balls. Sprinkle them well with flour. - </p> - <p> - Fry them in lard, or beef-drippings. When one side is done turn them over. - Drain them, and send them to the breakfast table. If approved, you may add - to the mixture two or three onions boiled and minced. Any large cold fish - may be dressed in this manner for next morning's breakfast. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROCK-FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Rock-fish are generally plain boiled, (with the heads and tails left on,) - and they are eaten with egg sauce, (hard boiled eggs chopped,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> and mixed - with melted or drawn butter,) seasoned with a little cayenne. Put on the - side of your plate, any nice fish sauce from the castors. Some serve up - rock-fish with hard boiled eggs, cut into halves, and laid closely in a - row along the back of the fish; half an egg being helped to each person. - Cold butter is then eaten with it. We think this a very nice way. - </p> - <p> - Blue fish, white fish, and black fish, may be drest in this manner. Also, - sea-bass. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BLACK FISH AND SEA-BASS— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Are all boiled in the same manner, having first carefully scaled, and - drawn, and well washed them. In drawing fish take care that the whole of - the inside is nicely scraped from the back-bone, all along. When ready, - dredge a clean soft cloth with flour, wrap the fish in it; lay it on the - strainer of a fish-kettle, and put it in plenty of water, into which has - been thrown a small table-spoonful of salt. Keep it steadily boiling near - half an hour. Take it carefully out of the cloth, drain it on the - strainer, and keep it warm. Send to table with it egg-sauce. - </p> - <p> - Eat mashed potatos with it. - </p> - <p> - <i>Frying.</i>—To fry the above fish,—cut them in two or three - pieces; wash them and wipe them dry; score them with deep cuts, and season - with cayenne and a little salt—dredge them with flour, and fry them - brown in a pan nearly full of boiling lard. - </p> - <p> - Any fish may be fried in this manner.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRESH COD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A fine codfish should be very thick about the neck; the eyes lively; the - gills red; and the flesh firm and white. If flabby, it is not good. It is - in season from October till May. After scaling, emptying, washing, and - drying, cover it, and let it rest for an hour. Then put it on in a - fish-kettle of <i>cold</i> water, (hard water if you can procure it,) - throw in a small handful of salt, and let the cod heat gradually, skimming - it well. Boil it gently, but steadily, till thoroughly done. Then, take it - out of the kettle, drain it, and keep it warm till ready to go to table. - No fish should be allowed to remain in the water after the boiling is - quite over. Serve it up with oyster or lobster sauce. - </p> - <p> - You may broil fresh cod in steaks, or fry it in cutlets. For frying fish, - you may use beef or veal drippings, with the fat skimmed off carefully. - Mutton fat (which is tallow) is unfit for all cookery. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TROUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Trout is considered a very nice fish, and is in season in the summer. When - fresh it is a fine flesh color, and its spots are very bright. To fry - trout, dry them in a cloth. Score them deeply, and touch each incision or - cut with a little cayenne. Dredge them with flour. Grate some bread-crumbs - very fine, and in another pan beat some eggs very light and thick. Dip - each fish twice in the egg, and twice in the crumbs, and fry them in - plenty of boiling lard, or in a mixture of lard and fresh butter. When - done, drain them, and send them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" - id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> to table with a dish of cucumbers sliced and - dressed in the usual way, with vinegar, pepper and salt. - </p> - <p> - If boiled, serve them up with egg sauce. If broiled, eat them with cold - butter and cayenne. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED TROUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a dish for company. Mix together as much cold water and sweet - white wine, in equal quantities, as will well cover the fish. When done, - take them out of the stew pan, drain them, and keep them hot while you - prepare the gravy. For this, thicken the liquid with a piece of fresh - butter divided into four, each bit rolled in flour; and add two or more - well-beaten eggs, and season with powdered mace and nutmeg. Mix all this - together, give it one boil up, and pour it over the trout, after they are - dished for table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED TROUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having cleaned the trout, wrap each fish in a very thin slice of bacon, - sprinkled with minced sweet marjoram, and seasoned with cayenne and mace. - Inclose each fish in a white paper, cut larger than to fit exactly. Fasten - the papers with strings or pins, to be removed before the fish goes to - table. Lay the trout in a square tin pan, and bake them in the papers, - which must be taken off when the fish are done; but serve them up with the - bacon round them or not, as you please.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SALT COD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The afternoon before the fish is to be eaten, put it to soak in plenty of - cold water. Cover it, and let it stand in a warm place all night. In the - morning pour off that water, wash the fish clean, and scrub the outside - with a brush. Put it into a kettle with cold water sufficient to cover it - well; and let it boil fast till near dinner time, skimming it well. About - half an hour before dinner, pour off this boiling water, and substitute a - sufficiency of cold. In this last water give the fish one boil up. Send it - to table with egg sauce, made with plenty of butter, and hard-boiled eggs - cut in half, and laid closely along the back of the fish, to be helped - with it. Accompany the cod with a plate of sliced beets drest with - vinegar. - </p> - <p> - Next morning you may take what is left, and having removed all the bone, - mince the fish, and mix it with an equal quantity of mashed potatos, - adding some butter, pepper, and raw egg. Make the whole into balls or flat - cakes, and fry them in drippings or lard. They are good at breakfast. On - every one put a small spot of pepper. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED SMELTS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The smelt is a very nice little fish, which has a peculiarly sweet and - delicate flavor of its own, that requires, to be tasted in perfection, no - other cooking than plain broiling or frying in fresh lard. Do not wash - them, but wipe them dry in a clean cloth; having opened and drawn them, - (they should be drawn through the gills,) and cut off the heads and tails, - dredge them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> - with flour. The frying-pan must be more than two-thirds full of boiling - lard; boiling hard when the smelts are put in, so as to float them on the - surface. If there is not sufficient lard, or if it is not boiling, the - fish will sink and be dark colored, and greasy. About ten minutes are - sufficient for the small ones, and fifteen for those of a larger size. - When done, drain off the lard and send them to the breakfast table on a - hot dish. - </p> - <p> - If you prefer retaining the heads and tails, dish them, alternately, with - the heads up and tails down. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED CAT-FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The best cat-fish are the small ones. If too large, they are generally - coarse and strong. They must be cooked quite fresh; if possible, directly - out of the water. They are very popular at fishing parties. Wash and clean - them, cutting off their heads and tails, and removing the upper part of - the back-bone, near the shoulders. Score them along the back, with deep - gashes or incisions. Dredge them with flour, and fry them in plenty of - lard, boiling fast when the cat-fish are put into the pan. Or, you may fry - them in the drippings or gravy saved from roast beef, or veal. They are - very nice dipped in a batter of beaten egg and grated bread-crumbs, or - they may be done in a plain, though not so nice a way, with indian meal - instead of bread-crumbs. Drain off the lard before you dish them. Touch - each incision or cut,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> - <i>very slightly</i>, with a little cayenne before they go to table. - </p> - <p> - Cat-fish are a breakfast dish, and are also eaten at supper. Porgie and - tutaug are cooked in this manner. - </p> - <p> - Any fish may be fried as above, when not split open. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE CHOWDER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is Commodore Stovens's receipt:—Take four table-spoonfuls of - minced onions that have been fried with slices of salt pork; two - pilot-biscuits broken up; one table-spoonful of minced sweet marjoram, and - one of sweet basil; a quarter of a bottle of mushroom catchup; half a - bottle of port wine; half a nutmeg grated; a few cloves, and mace, and - pepper-corns; six pounds of fresh cod, and sea-bass, cut in slices. Put - the whole into a pot, with water enough to cover it about an inch. Boil it - steadily for an hour, carefully stirring it. Serve it up hot in a large - deep dish. - </p> - <p> - Chowder may be made as above, substituting clams for the cod. The clams - must be chopped small. You may, for variety, make chowder with oysters, or - with boiled lobsters, or crabs; always beginning the mixture with pork - fried with onions. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - YANKEE CHOWDER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having sliced very thin some salt fat pork, season it with pepper, lay it - in the bottom of a large iron pot, set it over the<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> fire, and let it fry. When - done, take out the pork, leaving the liquid fat in the bottom. Next, peel - and slice some onions, and lay them on the fat. Pour in sufficient clam or - oyster liquor to stew the onions. Have ready a sufficient quantity of - sea-bass, black fish, tutaug, porgie, haddock, or fresh cod. Cut the fish - in small pieces, and put it into the pot. Add plenty of potatos pared and - quartered. Then some clam liquor; and lastly, some crackers, (soaked and - split,) or some soda biscuit; the crackers to cover the top. If you wish - to fill a large pot, repeat all these ingredients, arranging them in - layers. If there is not gravy enough, add some boiling milk, poured in at - the last, and enriched with bits of butter mixed with flour. Cover the pot - closely, and let it stew half an hour, or more, till all the contents are - thoroughly done. You may bake the chowder in an iron oven, over a wood - fire, heaping live coals on the oven lid. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CLAM CHOWDER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put into boiling water from fifty to a hundred of the small sand clams; - and when all their shells have opened, take them out, as they are then - sufficiently boiled. Extract all the hard, or tough, uneatable part, and - throw it away. Slice thin as much salt pork as, when fried in the bottom - of a large pot, will produce half a pint of liquid or gravy. Take out all - the pork, leaving the liquid in the pot. Add to it a layer of clams. Then - a layer of biscuit soaked in milk or warm water. Next another layer of - clams; then an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>other - layer of soaked biscuit; then more clams. Season it with pepper and mace. - If there is no objection to onions, add three or four boiled and sliced, - and some minced marjoram. Also, some potatos, boiled, peeled, and - quartered. Let the last layer be clams, and then cover the whole with a - good paste, and bake it in an iron oven, or boil it in an iron pot. - </p> - <p> - Chowder of fresh codfish, halibut, sea-bass, or any other good fish, is - made as above. Halibut requires a much larger portion of seasoning, and a - little more pork. Though very large and therefore very profitable, it is - in itself the most tasteless of all fish. Plain boiled halibut is not - worth eating. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SALMON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - In choosing a salmon, see that the gills are a fine red, the eyes full, - the scales clear, and the whole fish stiff; the flesh being of the - peculiar red known as salmon-color. Between the flakes is a substance - called the curd, which gives it firmness. By keeping, this substance melts - down and the flesh becomes soft. A salmon can only be eaten in perfection - on the sea-coast where it was caught, and on the same day. To transport it - any distance, it must be enclosed in a box, and well packed in ice. In - America, salmon is found in the greatest perfection on the coast of Maine, - in the Kennebec. Very fine ones are brought to Boston market. They also - abound on the coasts of California and Oregon. The American salmon is much - larger than those of Europe.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" - id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> It is so fine a fish that its own flavor is - better than any that can be communicated except by the most simple sauce. - It requires as much boiling as meat, that is, a quarter of an hour for - every pound. It is in season from May till August or September. - </p> - <p> - The lake salmon is good, but inferior to that of the ocean, in size, - richness, and color. - </p> - <p> - In boiling a large fish, to judge if it is done, draw up the strainer or - fish-plate, and with a thin knife try if the flesh separates easily from - the bone. If you can loosen it immediately, it is cooked enough. It - injures a fish to let it get cool in the water. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED SALMON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - After carefully emptying the salmon, wash it very clean from the blood - inside, and remove the scales. To preserve the fine color of the salmon, - or to set the curd or creamy substance between the flakes, it should be - put into boiling water, allowing to a gallon of water a handful of salt. - After the water has been boiling a few minutes, and has been skimmed, put - in the fish, (laying it on the drainer,) and let it boil moderately fast, - skimming it well. It must be thoroughly boiled. Underdone fish of every - kind is disgusting and unwholesome. Before it is taken from the fish - kettle ascertain if it is sufficiently cooked, by trying if the back-bone - easily loosens from the flesh. A quarter of an hour may be allowed for - each pound, for a large thick salmon requires as much cooking as meat.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> When you - take it up, drain it well, and serve it up immediately. Have ready some - lobster sauce, or shrimp, if more convenient. To make it, mince the meat - of a boiled lobster, mashing the coral with it, and mix it with melted or - drawn butter, made very thick, and having but a very small portion of - water. For shrimp sauce, boil the shrimps, take off their heads, and - squeeze out their bodies from the shells. Thicken with them the drawn - butter. Nothing should go with salmon that will interfere with the flavor - of this fine fish, or give it any taste that will overpower or weaken its - own. - </p> - <p> - Many prefer salmon with nothing more than cold butter spread on after it - is helped. We think, ourselves, that when the butter is very good, it is - not improved (for salmon) by the addition of flour and water; and a very - little is sufficient. You need use nothing from the castors except - cayenne. - </p> - <p> - It is usual to eat cucumbers with salmon, and no other vegetables; the - cucumbers to be pared, sliced, laid in cold water, and dressed, and served - up by themselves, with a little plate for each person, that the vinegar, - &c., of the cucumbers may not impart too much acid to the salmon. - </p> - <p> - In places remote from the sea, a whole salmon is seldom seen at table but - at dinner parties, or at good hotels. In a very hot climate it should not - be seen at all. When in season, it can be bought in any quantity by the - pound, for a small<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> - family. For a small dinner company, from four to six pounds will suffice. - </p> - <p> - Cook salmon-trout in the same manner. Large fish should be helped with a - silver fish trowel. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROASTED SALMON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large piece of fine fresh salmon, cut from the middle of the fish, - well cleaned and carefully scaled. Wipe it dry in a clean coarse cloth. - Then dredge it with flour, put it on the spit, and place it before a clear - bright fire. Baste it with fresh butter, and roast it well; seeing that it - is thoroughly done to the bone. Serve it up plain; garnishing the dish - with slices of lemon, as many persons like a little lemon-juice with - salmon. This mode of cooking salmon will be found excellent. A small one, - or a salmon-trout, may be roasted whole. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED SALMON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A small salmon may be baked whole. Stuff it with forcemeat made of - bread-crumbs; chopped oysters, or minced lobster; butter, cayenne, a - little salt, and powdered mace,—all mixed well, and moistened with - beaten yolk of egg. Bend the salmon round, and put the tail into the - mouth, fastening it with a skewer. Put it into a large deep dish; lay bits - of butter on it at small intervals; and set it into the oven. While - baking, look at it occasionally, and baste it with the butter. When one - side is well browned, turn it carefully in the dish, and add<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> more - butter. Bake it till the other side is well browned. Then transfer it to - another dish with the gravy that is about it, and send it to table. - </p> - <p> - If you bake salmon in slices, reserve the forcemeat for the outside. Dip - each slice first in beaten yolk of egg, and then in the forcemeat, till it - is well coated. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED SALMON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash carefully all traces of blood from the inside of the fish. Cut it - into rather thick slices, or fillets. Dry them in a clean cloth, and - dredge them with flour. Chalk the bars of the gridiron, or grease them - with lard or suet, or the dripping of beef or veal, to prevent the fish - from sticking. Let the fire be a bed of clear bright hot coals. Broil the - slices well on both sides; and when done, transfer them to a hot dish, and - lay a bit of fresh butter on each, and season them a little with cayenne. - </p> - <p> - Fresh codfish may be cut into steaks, and broiled as above. - </p> - <p> - Also halibut, or any other large fish. - </p> - <p> - Serve up shrimp or lobster sauce, with all cutlets or steaks of large - fish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED SALMON CUTLETS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having washed, dried and floured the cutlets, put near a pound of fresh - lard into a frying pan, set it over a clear brisk fire till it boils fast. - Have ready a marinade or dressing made of grated bread-crumbs,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> chopped - sweet-marjoram, beaten yolks of eggs, and powdered mace—all well - mixed. Dip each cutlet into this marinade twice over, and fry them. There - must be plenty of lard, so that the cutlets may float on its surface - instead of sinking to the bottom, and becoming dark, heavy, and greasy. - When they are done, take them up with a perforated skimmer, draining off - the lard as you do so. Lay them on a hot dish, and keep them hot till - wanted. Serve up with them mashed potatos made into flat cakes, and - browned with a salamander or red hot shovel. - </p> - <p> - Fresh codfish cutlets may be fried in this manner. - </p> - <p> - You may broil halibut as above. Halibut is too insipid for boiling. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED SALMON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Clean a fine fresh salmon, and remove the bones. Cut off the head, fins, - and tail. Fish, to be pickled, should (instead of washing) be wiped, and - rubbed with a clean dry cloth. Cut it into steaks or cutlets. Put it into - a stone-ware jar with a close cover. A broad low jar will be best. - Sprinkle it with salt, and cayenne. Add some grains of whole black pepper, - and some blades of mace, seasoning it highly to make it keep well. Fill up - the jar with the best cider vinegar, set it in a moderate oven, and bake - it till thoroughly done; adding more vinegar, if it seems too dry. Then - cover the jar very closely, with the lid—if there is the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> smallest - crack, paste all round a fillet of strong, white paper. Whenever you open - the jar to take out some of the salmon for use, add some fresh vinegar. - Keep the jar in a dry cool place. If properly done, and well seasoned, it - will keep several months. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED FRESH MACKEREL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mackerel cannot be eaten too fresh, as no fish spoils so soon; for which - reason in England mackerel is permitted to be sold on Sundays. We have - heard in London the fishwomen crying it about the streets on Sunday - morning before church time. And even then it is far inferior to mackerel - taken immediately out of the sea, at the places on the coast. It is - generally broiled, as no other cooking seems to suit it, and draw forth - its true flavor. Split your mackerel, remove the bone, and cut off the - heads and tails. Dredge them on both sides with flour, and sprinkle the - inside with black pepper and a little salt. Have your gridiron very hot, - over a clear fire, and grease the bars with lard, or chalk them to prevent - the fish from sticking. Broil them well on both sides, and when they are - done, and very hot, lay some bits of fresh butter upon them. Cover to keep - them warm, and send them to table as soon as possible. They are a fine - breakfast fish, and good at a plain dinner. For sauce, cold butter is all - that is necessary, but you may mix with it, chopped parsley, or minced - fennel. At the best English tables, stewed <i>gooseberries</i>, pulped - through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> - a sieve and sweetened, is the fashionable sauce for broiled mackerel, or - lemon-juice is squeezed profusely over the fish. To this the lovers of - fruit with every thing, will not object. - </p> - <p> - If a mackerel is fresh, the eyes will be full and lively, the gills very - red, and the stripes or bars on the back a very dark color, (nearly - black,) and strongly marked; and the body thick. If thin and flat below - the shoulders, the eyes sunk, the gills pale, and the dark stripes dull - and indistinct, the fish is unfit to eat. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED MACKEREL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For frying, take small mackerel, as fresh as possible. Wash them, dry them - in a clean cloth, and score them deeply in the back, making several deep - cuts. Season them with a little salt and pepper. Go over them with beaten - egg, and then cover them thickly with grated bread-crumbs; which, for this - purpose, are superior to indian meal or pounded crackers. Fry them in - boiling lard, and dish them hot. Send them to table with a dish of potatos - sliced and fried in butter. - </p> - <p> - Any fish may be fried in this manner. If large, cut it into pieces. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED HALIBUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - There is a great deal of eating in a halibut, as it is a fish of immense - size, and has only the back bone. It is sold in pieces of any weight or - quantity, and is exceedingly white<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" - id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> and delicate in appearance. But it is so very - insipid, that when <i>boiled</i> it has no taste at all. Therefore it is - always broiled or fried, except at tables where economy is the chief - consideration. If broiled, it is done in the same manner as any other - large fish, but to make it palatable requires something to give it a - little taste. - </p> - <p> - To fry halibut—take a piece from the middle of the fish, wash it - very carefully, and dry it in a clean cloth. Then cut it into thick - fillets, extracting the bone, which is easily done with a sharp knife, - loosening the flesh from the bone, and raising it as you proceed. Remove - the skin. You may also cut the fillets into slices about an inch thick. - Season with cayenne, and a very little salt. Cover them slightly with nice - butter. Have ready in one pan plenty of grated bread-crumbs; in another a - sufficiency of beaten yolk of egg, seasoned with powdered mace and nutmeg. - Dip the slices first into the egg, then into the pan of bread-crumbs. Do - this twice over, to every slice. Have ready over the fire a hot frying pan - full of <i>boiling</i> lard. Put in the slices and fry them well. When one - side is done, turn the other. When all are done, take them from the frying - pan with a perforated skimmer, and drain them. Keep them hot between two - heated dishes. - </p> - <p> - Cooked in this manner, the halibut will be sufficiently flavored and is a - profitable fish. - </p> - <p> - Instead of frying, the halibut steaks may be broiled over a clear fire, on - a grooved gridiron. Having first buttered it, dip each steak, as above<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>, in - bread-crumbs and egg, and lay upon each steak a large tomato opened, and - stuffed with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs seasoned with butter, pepper, and - mace. This will be found a very nice way of cooking halibut. Fresh cod may - be done in the same manner. - </p> - <p> - Cold halibut is sometimes drest as salad for the tea-table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S-HEAD FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having cleaned and washed the fish, soak it an hour or two in salt and - water to draw off the slime. Then let it lie half an hour or more in cold - water. Afterwards drain, and wipe it dry. Score the back deeply with a - knife. The whiteness of the fish will be improved by rubbing it over with - a cut lemon. The fish kettle must be large, and nicely clean. Lay the fish - with its back downward, on the strainer of the kettle. Cover it well with - cold water, (milk and water in equal portions will be better still,) and - add a small spoonful of salt. Do not let it come to a boil too fast, and - skim it carefully. When the scum has ceased to rise, diminish the heat - under the kettle, and let it simmer for about half an hour or more; not - allowing it to boil hard. When the fish is done, take it up carefully with - a fish-slice; and having prepared the sauce, pour it over the fish and - send it to table hot. - </p> - <p> - For the sauce, mix together very smoothly, with a broad-bladed knife, a - quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and two table-spoonfuls of flour. Put - them into a clean sauce-pan, and hold it over the fire,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> and stir - them till melted. Then add a large salt-spoonful of powdered mace, and as - much cayenne as will lie on a sixpence. It will be much improved by the - addition of some boiled lobster, chopped small. When the sauce has - simmered five minutes, add very gradually half a pint of rich cream, and - let it come almost to a boil, stirring all the time. After the fish is - taken up, pour the sauce over it hot. Or you may send it to table in a - sauce-boat. In this case ornament the fish with the coral of the lobster - put on in a handsome figure. - </p> - <p> - Another way of dressing this fish is, after it has been boiled, to set it - on ice to get cold; and then, having carefully removed the bones, cut the - flesh into small squares, put it into a stew-pan, and having mixed the - above sauce, add it to the fish, and let it stew slowly in the sauce; but - do not let it come to a boil. When thoroughly hot, take it up, and send it - to table in a deep dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S-HEAD FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having cleaned the fish, soak it an hour or two in salt and water, and - afterwards wash it well through two or three fresh waters. Then dry it in - a clean towel. Score it deeply across the back; and then lay it in a deep - white baking-dish. Mix together a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and - nutmeg; add a salt-spoon of cayenne; a few sprigs of sweet marjoram and - sweet basil, finely minced; two large table-spoonfuls of fresh<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> butter; - and two table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs. Stir this mixture into a - pint of rich cream. Pour this marinade over the fish, cover it, and let it - stand half an hour. Then bake it in the marinade; and send it hot to - table. - </p> - <p> - If the fish is too large to be baked whole, cut it into fillets, - extracting the bone. - </p> - <p> - Salmon-trout may be baked in this manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SEA BASS WITH TOMATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take three large fine sea-bass, or black-fish. Cut off their heads and - tails, and fry the fish in plenty of lard till about half done. Have ready - a pint of tomatos, that have been pickled cold in vinegar flavored with a - muslin bag of mixed spices. Drain the tomatos well from the vinegar; skin - them, and mash them in a pan; dredging them with about as much flour as - would fill a large table-spoon heaped up. Pour the mixture over the fish - while in the frying pan; and continue frying till they are thoroughly - done. - </p> - <p> - Cutlets of halibut may be fried in this manner with tomatos: also, any - other pan-fish. - </p> - <p> - Beef-steaks or lamb-chops are excellent fried thus with tomatos. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED SALMON-TROUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having cleaned the fish, and laid it two hours in weak salt and water, dry - it in a cloth, and then rub both the inside and outside with a seasoning - of cayenne<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> - pepper, powdered mace, nutmeg, and a little salt, mixed well together. - Then lay it in a deep baking-pan, turn the tail round into the mouth, and - stick bits of fresh butter thickly over the fish. Put it into an oven, and - bake it well; basting it frequently with the liquid that will soon - surround it. When you suppose it to be nearly done, try it by sticking - down to the backbone a thin-bladed knife. When you find that the flesh - separates immediately from the bone, it is done sufficiently. Serve it up - with lobster-sauce. - </p> - <p> - Any large fresh fish may be baked in this way. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CREAM TROUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having prepared the trout very nicely, and cut off the heads and tails, - put the fish into boiling water that has been slightly salted, and simmer - them for five minutes. Then take them out, and lay them to drain. Put them - into a stew-pan, and season them well with powdered mace, nutmeg, and a - little cayenne, all mixed together. Put in as much rich cream as will - cover the fish, adding the fresh yellow rind of a small lemon, grated. - Keep the pan covered, and let the fish stew for about ten minutes after it - has begun to simmer. Then dish the fish, and keep them hot till you have - finished the sauce. Mix, very smoothly, a small table-spoonful of - arrow-root, the juice of the lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and - stir it into the cream. Pour the sauce over the fish, and then send them - to table. - </p> - <p> - Turbot or sheep's-head fish may be dressed as<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> above; of course it will - require a larger proportion of seasoning, &c., and longer time to - cook. - </p> - <p> - Carp is very nice stewed in this manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED CODFISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine <i>fresh</i> cod, and cut it into slices an inch thick, - separated from the bones. Lay the pieces of fish in the bottom of a - stew-pan: season them with grated nutmeg; half a dozen blades of mace; a - salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper; and a small saucer full of chopped - celery; or a bunch of sweet herbs tied together. Add a pint of oyster - liquor, and the juice of a lemon. Cover it close, and let it stew gently - till the fish is almost done, shaking the pan frequently. Then take a - piece of fresh butter the size of an egg; roll it in flour, and add it to - the stew. Also, put in two dozen large fine oysters, with what liquor - there is about them. Cover it again; quicken the fire a little, and let - the whole continue to stew five minutes longer. Before you send it to - table, remove the bunch of sweet herbs. - </p> - <p> - Rock-fish may be stewed in this manner. Fresh salmon also. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED CODFISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the middle or tail part of a fresh codfish, and cut it into slices - not quite an inch thick, first removing the skin. Season them with a - little salt and cayenne pepper. Have ready in one dish some beaten yolk of - egg, and in another some grated bread-crumbs. Dip each slice of fish twice - into the egg, and then twice<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" - id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> into the crumbs. Fry them in fresh butter, - and serve them up with the gravy about them. - </p> - <p> - Halibut may be fried as above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED HALIBUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut the fish into pieces about four inches square, of course omitting the - bone. Season it very slightly with salt, and let it rest for half an hour. - Then take it out of the salt, put it into a large deep dish, and strew - over it a mixture of cayenne pepper, ground white ginger, and grated - nutmeg. Lay among it some small bits of fresh butter rolled in grated - bread. Add half a pint of vinegar, (tarragon vinegar if you have it.) - Place the dish in a slow oven, and let the halibut cook till thoroughly - done, basting it very <i>frequently</i> with the liquid. When nearly done, - add a large table-spoonful or more of capers, or pickled nasturtions. - </p> - <p> - Halibut is a very insipid fish; but this mode of cooking will give it - taste. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED ROCK-FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large rock-fish, and cut it in slices near an inch thick. Sprinkle - it <i>very slightly</i> with salt, and let it remain for half an hour. - Slice very thin half a dozen large onions. Put them into a stew-pan with a - quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut into bits. Set them over a slow - fire, and stir them continually till they are quite soft, taking care not - to let them become brown. Then put in the sliced fish<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> in layers; seasoning each - layer with a mixture of white ground ginger, cayenne pepper, and grated - nutmeg; add some chopped parsley, and some bits of butter rolled in flour. - Pour in a pint of water, and, if you choose, a wine-glass of vinegar, - (tarragon vinegar will be best.<a name="FNanchor_B" id="FNanchor_B"></a><a - href="#Footnote_B" class="fnanchor">[B]</a>) Set it over a good fire and - let it cook about an hour. When done, take out the fish carefully, to - avoid breaking the slices. Lay it in a deep dish that has been made hot, - and cover it immediately. Have ready the beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir - them into the gravy. Give it one boil up; and then either pour it over the - fish, or serve it up in a sauce-boat. - </p> - <p> - Halibut, fresh cod, or any other large fish may be stewed in this manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO KEEP A SHAD FRESH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - By the following process, (which we can highly recommend from experience,) - a shad may be kept twenty-four hours, or indeed longer, so as to be - perfectly fresh in taste and appearance. For instance, if brought <i>fresh</i> - from market on Saturday morning, it may be broiled for breakfast on - Sunday, and will seem like a fresh shad just from the water. Immediately - on bringing it in, let it be scaled, cleaned, washed, split, and wiped - dry; cutting off the head<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" - id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> and tail. Spread the shad open on a large - flat dish. Mix well together in a cup, a heaped table-spoonful of brown - sugar; a heaped tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and a tea-spoonful of fine - salt; and then rub the mixture, thoroughly and evenly, all over the inside - of the fish; which, of course, must be spread with the skin or outside - downward. Cover it closely with a large tin cover or with another dish, - and set it immediately on ice or in a very cold place, and let it rest - till next morning, or till it is wanted for cooking. Immediately before - you put it on the gridiron, take a clean towel and carefully wipe off the - <i>whole of the seasoning</i>, not letting a particle of it remain round - the edges, or anywhere else. Then put the shad on a previously heated - gridiron, over hot coals, and broil it well. Butter it, and send it hot to - table, where every one can season it again, according to their taste. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLANKED SHAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is the best way of cooking shad when in perfection, just out of the - river; and it is much in use at fishing party dinners. A board or plank, - about three inches thick and two feet square, must be provided for the - purpose. This plank should be of well-seasoned oak or hickory, and very - clean. A pine board will very soon catch fire and burn; besides - communicating to the fish a taste of turpentine or rosin. Take a very fine - shad, and (having cut off the head and tail,) split it down the back,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> clean - it, wash it well, and wipe it dry. Sprinkle it with salt, and cayenne. - Stand up the board before the fire till it becomes very hot, and almost - begins to char. Then nail to the hot board the spread-open shad, with the - back or skin-side next to the plank, securing it with a few nails, not - driven in so hard that they cannot easily be drawn out. Begin to roast it - with the head downward. After a while turn the other end of the plank, so - as to place the tail downward. Turn it frequently up or down, that the - juices of the fish may be equally dispersed throughout. When done, butter - it with fresh butter, and send it to table on the board; under which, - place a large dish or tray. Help it to the company off the plank. This - mode of cooking a shad will be found superior to all others; and is so - generally liked, that two at least will be required, one at each end of - the table. It is much enjoyed by parties who have dinners on the banks of - the river, and bespeak of the fishermen shad just out of the water. - </p> - <p> - Lake salmon may be cooked in this manner on a plank. Also, blue fish, and - the lake white fish. - </p> - <p> - At the principal household stores, shad-boards of oak are now to be - purchased ready made. The cost is from a dollar to seventy-five cents. - They are very strong and smooth, and furnished with thick wires crossing - the board diagonally. Behind these the fish is to slip in without nailing. - They are much used, and we advise every house-keeper to get one. We see - very nice ones at Carryl's Furnishing Store, Chestnut street, - Philadelphia.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="SHELL_FISH" id="SHELL_FISH"></a>SHELL FISH. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO CHOOSE OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes firmly on the knife, the - oysters are fresh. If it shuts slowly and faintly, or not at all, they are - dying, or dead. When the shells of raw oysters are found gaping open they - are fit for nothing but to throw away, and should not have been seen in - the market, as they are quite dead and decomposition has commenced. Clams - the same. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO FEED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - When it is necessary to keep oysters a day or two before they are cooked, - they must be kept clean and fed, otherwise they will die and spoil. Put - them into a large tub of clean water; wash from them the mud and sand, and - scrub them with a birch broom. Then pour off <i>that</i> water, and give - them a clean tubful, placing the oysters with the deep or large side - downward, and sprinkling them well, with salt mixed with it, allowing - about a pint of salt to every two gallons of water. But if you have a very - large quantity of oysters, add to the salt and water several handfuls of - indian meal. Repeat this every twelve hours, with fresh water and meal. - Always at the time of high water, oysters may be seen to open their - shells, as if in expectation of their accustomed food. If this is<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> - carefully continued, they will remain plump and healthy for two days. - </p> - <p> - Terrapins also, and other shell fish, should have the salt and water - changed every twelve hours, and be fed with corn meal. - </p> - <p> - Turtle must also be well fed, and allowed salted water to swim in. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Get two hundred or more fine large fresh oysters. Drain them from their - liquor, (saving it in a pitcher,) and put them into a stew-pan with a - quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and set them over the fire. When they - have simmered, and have almost come to a boil, remove them from the fire; - and have ready a pan of very cold water. Take out the oysters, (one at a - time, on a fork,) and put them into the cold water. This will plump them, - and render them firm. Having saved about half their liquor, put it into - the stew-pan, seasoned well with blades of mace, grated nutmeg, whole - pepper-corns, and a little cayenne. Stir in half a pint or more of thick - rich cream; and if you cannot procure cream, an equal quantity of nice - fresh butter divided into bits, slightly dredged with a very little flour. - Boil the liquor by itself, and when it comes to a boil, take the oysters - out of the cold water, and put them into the boiling liquor. In five - minutes remove the pan from the fire, (the oysters having simmered,) and - transfer them to a tureen or deep dish, in the bottom of which has<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> been - laid a buttered toast, that has previously been dipped a minute in hot - water or milk. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRENCH STEWED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash fifty fine large oysters in their own liquor, then strain it into a - stew-pan, putting the oysters in a pan of cold water. Season the liquor - with a large glass or half a pint of white wine, (sherry or Madeira,) the - juice of two lemons, six or seven blades of mace, and a small grated - nutmeg. Boil the seasoned liquor; and skim, and stir it well. When it - comes to a boil, put in the oysters. Give them one good stir, and then - immediately take them from the fire, transfer them to a deep dish, and - send them to table. They are not to boil. - </p> - <p> - Many persons consider this the finest way of cooking oysters for company. - Try it. The oysters must be of the very best. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For frying, take only the largest and finest oysters. They should be as - fresh as you can get them. Salt oysters are not good for frying. Take them - out of their liquor, carefully, with a fork, picking off whatever bits of - shell may be about them. Dry them in a clean napkin. Prepare some grated - bread-crumbs, or pounded cracker, or soda biscuit, seasoned with cayenne - pepper. Have ready plenty of yolk of egg beaten till very light; and to - each egg allow a large tea-spoonful of rich cream, or of the best<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> fresh - butter. Beat the egg and cream together. Dip each oyster first into the - egg, &c., and then into the crumbs. Repeat this twice till the oysters - are well-coated all over. Have ready boiling, in a frying-pan, an equal - mixture of fresh butter and lard. It must come nearly to the edge or top - of the frying-pan, and be boiling fast when the oysters go in; otherwise - they will be heavy and greasy, and sink to the bottom. Fry them of a - yellow brown on both sides. Send them to table very hot. - </p> - <p> - Oysters will be found much the best when fried in grated bread-crumbs. - Cracker-crumbs form a hard, tough coating that is very indigestible, and - also impairs the flavor. Use no salt in making the batter. Omit it - entirely. It overpowers the taste of the oysters. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OYSTER FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Allow to each egg a heaped table-spoonful of flour, and a jill or small - tea-cupful of milk. Beat the eggs till very light and thick; then stir - them, gradually, into the pan of milk, in turn with the flour, a little at - a time. Beat the whole very hard. Have ready the oysters, that you may - proceed immediately to baking the fritters. The oysters should be fresh, - and of the largest size. Having drained them from their liquor, and dried - them separately in a cloth, and dredged them with flour, set over the fire - a frying-pan nearly full of lard. When it boils fast, put in a large - spoonful of the batter. Then lay an oyster<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> upon it, and cover the - oyster with another spoonful of batter. Fry the fritters of a nice yellow. - As they are done, take them up, drain off the lard from the oysters, and - keep them hot till they go to table. This will be found a very fine - receipt if <i>exactly</i> followed. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CLAM FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put a sufficient quantity of clams into a pot of boiling water. The small - sand-clam will be best. When the shells open wide, take them out, extract - the clams from the shells, and put them into a stew-pan. Strain their - liquor, and pour about half of it over the clams; adding a little black - pepper. They will require no salt. Let them stew, slowly, for half an - hour; then take them out; drain off all the liquor; and mince the clams as - fine as possible, omitting the hardest parts. You should have as many - clams as will make a large pint when minced. Make a batter of seven eggs, - beaten till very thick and light, and then mixed gradually with a quart of - milk, and a pint of sifted flour, stirred in by degrees, and made - perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Then, gradually, mix the minced - clams with the batter, and stir the whole very hard. Have ready in a - frying-pan over the fire, a sufficiency of boiling lard. Put in, with a - spoon, the batter so as to form fritters, and fry them light brown. Drain - them well when done and serve them up hot. - </p> - <p> - Oyster fritters may be made as above: except<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> that the oysters must be - minced raw, and mixed into the batter without having been stewed. - </p> - <p> - <i>Soft-crab Fritters.</i>—Use only the bodies of the crabs, and - proceed as above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SCOLLOPED CLAMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having boiled a quantity of small sand-clams till they open of themselves, - remove them from the shells. Drain away the liquor, and chop them small, - omitting the hardest parts. Season them with black pepper and powdered - mace, and mix them with grated bread-crumbs and fresh butter. Get some - large clean clam-shells, and fill them to the edge with the above mixture, - moistened with <i>a very little</i> of the liquor. Cover the surface with - grated crumbs, and add to each one a small bit of butter. Set them in an - oven, and bake them light brown. Send them to table in the shells they - were baked in, arranged on large dishes. They are eaten at breakfast and - supper. Clams must always have the shells washed before they are boiled. - </p> - <p> - Oysters are frequently scolloped in this manner, minced, and served up in - large <i>clam</i> shells. - </p> - <p> - Boiled crabs, also, are cooked, minced, and prepared in this way, and sent - to table in the back-shell of the crab. - </p> - <p> - All these scollops are improved by mixing among them some hard-boiled - eggs, minced or chopped; or some raw egg beaten.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROASTED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The old-fashioned way of roasting oysters is to lay them on a hot hearth, - and cover them in hot cinders or ashes, (taking them out with tongs when - done,) or to put them into a moderate fire. When done, their shells will - begin to open. The usual way now is to broil them on large gridirons of - strong wire. Serve them up in their shells on large dishes, or on trays, - at oyster suppers. At every plate lay an oyster knife and a clean coarse - towel, and between every two chairs set a bucket to receive the empty - shells. The gentlemen generally save the ladies the trouble of opening the - oysters, by performing that office for them. - </p> - <p> - Have on the table, to eat with the oysters, bread-rolls, biscuits, butter, - and glasses with sticks of celery scraped, and divested of the green - leaves at the top. Have also ale or porter. - </p> - <p> - Or, you may take large oysters out of their shells, dredge them lightly - with flour, lay them separately on a wire gridiron, and broil them. Serve - them up on large dishes, with a morsel of fresh butter laid on each - oyster. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Drain the liquor from a sufficient quantity of fine fresh oysters; and - season them with blades of mace, grated nutmeg, and a little cayenne. Lay - about a dozen of them in the bottom of a deep dish. Cut some slices of - wheat bread, and put them to soak in a pan of the oyster liquor - (previously strained.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" - id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Soak the bread till it is soft throughout, but not dissolved. Cover the - oysters in the bottom of the dish, with some slices of the soaked bread, - (drained from the liquor,) and lay upon the bread a few small bits of nice - fresh butter. Then put in another layer of seasoned oysters; then another - layer of soaked bread with bits of butter dispersed upon it. Repeat this - with more layers of oysters, soaked bread, and bits of butter, till the - dish is full, finishing with a close layer of bread on the top. Set this - into a hot oven, and bake it, a short time only, or till it is well - browned on the surface. Oysters require but little cooking, and this bread - has had one baking already. The liquid that is about the bread is - sufficient. It requires no more. - </p> - <p> - Scolloped oysters may be cooked in large, clean, clam-shells and served up - on great dishes. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a hundred fine large oysters—set them over the fire in their - own liquor—add two ounces of nice fresh butter, and simmer them - slowly for ten minutes; skimming them well. If they boil fast and long, - they will become hard and shrivelled. Take them off the fire and strain - from them their liquor; spread the oysters out on large dishes, and place - them in the air to cool fast, or lay them in a broad pan of cold water. - This renders them firm. Strain the liquor, and then mix with it an equal - quantity of the best and purest clear cider-vinegar. Season (if the - oysters are fresh,) with a small tea-spoonful of<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> salt, two dozen whole - pepper-corns, and a table-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg, mixed. Let - the liquor boil till it is reduced to little more than enough to cover the - oysters well. Put the oysters into a tureen, or a broad stone jar. Pour - the hot liquor over them, and let them grow quite cold before they are - eaten. You may give them a fine tinge of pale pink color by adding to the - liquor (while boiling,) a little prepared cochineal. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - <i>For keeping.</i>—Have five or six hundred oysters of the finest - sort and largest size. Proceed as in the foregoing receipt, but increase, - proportionately, the quantity of spice and vinegar. Put them in stone-ware - jars, securing the covers by pasting all round, bands or strips of thick - white paper; and place on each jar, on the top of the liquor, a - table-spoonful of salad oil. - </p> - <p> - Use no other than <i>genuine cider-vinegar</i>. Much that is sold for the - best white-wine vinegar is in reality a deleterious compound of pernicious - drugs, that will eat up or dissolve the oysters entirely, leaving nothing - but a sickening whitish fluid. This vinegar is at first so overpoweringly - sharp and pungent, as to destroy, entirely, the taste of the spices; and, - while cooking, emits a disagreeable smell. The oysters immediately become - ragged, and in less than an hour are entirely destroyed. This vinegar acts - in the same manner on all other pickles, and the use of it should always - be shunned.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - <i>Drugs</i> should not be employed in any sort of cookery, though their - introduction is now most lamentably frequent. They ruin the flavor and are - injurious to health. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OYSTER PATTIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make sufficient puff-paste for at least a dozen small patties. Roll it out - thick, and line with it twelve small tin patty-pans. Bake them brown in a - brisk oven; and when done set them to cool. Have ready two or three dozen - large, fine, fresh oysters. Wash and drain them, and put them into a - stew-pan with no other liquid than just enough of their own liquor to keep - them from burning. Season them with cayenne, nutmeg, and mace, and a few - of the green tops or leaves of celery sprigs minced small. Add a quarter - of a pound of fresh butter, divided into bits, and laid among the oysters. - To enrich the gravy, stir in, at the last, the beaten yolks of three or - four eggs, or some thick cream or butter. Let the oysters stew in this - gravy about five minutes. When the patties are beginning to cool, fill - each with one or two large oysters. If you choose, you can bake for every - patty a small round lid of pastry, to be laid lightly on the top, so as to - cover the oysters when they go to table. For company, make a large - quantity of oyster patties, as they are much liked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OYSTER LOAVES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some tall fresh rolls, or small loaves. Cut nicely a round or oval<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> hole in - the top of each, saving the pieces that come off. Then carefully scoop out - most of the crumb from the inside, leaving the crust standing. Have ready - a sufficient quantity of large fresh oysters. Put the oysters with - one-fourth of their liquor into a stew-pan; adding the bread-crumbs, a - large piece of fresh butter, some powdered nutmeg, and mace. Stew them - about ten minutes. Then stir in two or three large table-spoonfuls of - cream; take them off just as they are coming to a boil. If cooked too long - the oysters will become tough and shriveled, and the cream will curdle. - Fill the inside of your scooped loaves with the oysters, reserving as many - large oysters as you have loaves. Place the bit of upper-crust carefully - on the top of each, so as to cover the whole. Arrange them on a dish, and - lay on each lid one of the large oysters kept out for the purpose. These - ornamental oysters must be well drained from any liquid that is about - them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OYSTER OMELET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having strained the liquor from twenty-five oysters of the largest size, - mince them small; omitting the hard part or gristle. If you cannot get - large oysters, you should have forty or fifty small ones. Break into a - shallow pan six, seven, or eight eggs, according to the quantity of minced - oysters. Omit half the whites, and, (having beaten the eggs till very - light, thick, and smooth,) mix the oysters gradually into them, adding a - little cayenne pepper,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" - id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> and some powdered nutmeg. Put three ounces - or more of the best fresh butter into a small frying-pan, if you have no - pan especially for omelets. Place it over a clear fire, and when the - butter, (which should be previously cut up,) has come to a boil, put in - the omelet-mixture; stir it till it begins to set; and fry it light brown, - lifting the edge several times by slipping a knife under it, and taking - care not to cook it too much or it will shrivel and become tough. When - done, clap a large hot plate or dish on the top of the omelet, and turn it - quickly and carefully out of the pan. Serve it up immediately. It is a - fine breakfast dish. This quantity will make one large or two small - omelets. - </p> - <p> - Clam omelets may be made as above. - </p> - <p> - An omelet pan should be smaller than a common frying-pan, and lined with - tin. In a large pan the omelet will spread too much, and become thin like - a pancake. - </p> - <p> - Never turn an omelet while frying, as that will make it heavy and tough. - When done, brown it by holding a red-hot shovel or salamander close above - the top. - </p> - <p> - Excellent omelets may be made of cold boiled ham, or smoked tongue; grated - or minced small, mixed with a sufficiency of beaten eggs, and fried in - butter. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the largest and finest oysters. See that your gridiron is very clean. - Rub the bars with fresh butter, and set it<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> over a clear steady fire, - entirely free from smoke; or on a bed of bright hot wood coals. Place the - oysters on the gridiron, and when done on one side, take a fork and turn - them on the other; being careful not to let them burn. Put some fresh - butter in the bottom of a dish. Lay the oysters on it, and season them - with pepper and grated nutmeg. Send them to table hot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OYSTER PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having buttered the inside of a deep dish, line it with puff-paste rolled - out rather thick; and prepare another sheet of paste for the lid. Pat a - clean towel into the dish (folded so as to support the lid) and then put - on the lid; set it into the oven, and bake the paste well. When done, - remove the lid, and take out the folded towel. While the paste is baking, - prepare the oysters. Having picked off carefully any bits of shell that - may be found about them, lay them in a sieve and drain off the liquor into - a pan. Put the oysters into a skillet or stew-pan, with barely enough of - the liquor to keep them from burning. Season them with whole pepper, - blades of mace, some grated nutmeg, and some grated lemon-peel, (the - yellow rind only,) and a little finely minced celery. Then add a large - portion of fresh butter, divided into bits, and very slightly dredged with - flour. Let the oysters simmer over the fire, but do not allow them to come - to a boil, as that will shrivel them. Next beat the yolks only, of three, - four, or five eggs, (in pro<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" - id="Page_121">[121]</a></span>portion to the size of the pie,) and stir - the beaten egg into the stew a few minutes before you take it from the - fire. Keep it warm till the paste is baked. Then carefully remove the lid - of the pie; and replace it, after you have filled the dish with the - oysters and gravy. - </p> - <p> - The lid of the pie may be ornamented with a wreath of leaves cut out of - paste, and put on before baking. In the centre, place a paste-knot or - flower. - </p> - <p> - Oyster pies are generally eaten warm; but they are very good cold. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CLAM PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a sufficient number of clams to fill a large pie-dish when opened. - Make a nice paste in the proportion of a pound of fresh butter to two - quarts of flour. Paste for shell fish, or meat, or chicken pies, should be - rolled out double the thickness of that intended for fruit pies. Line the - sides and bottom of your pie-dish with paste. Then cover the bottom with a - thin beef steak, divested of bone and fat. Put in the clams, and season - them with mace, nutmeg, and a few whole pepper-corns. No salt. Add a - spoonful of butter rolled in flour, and some hard-boiled yolks of eggs - crumbled fine. Then put in enough of the clam liquor to make sufficient - gravy. Put on the lid of the pie, (which, like the bottom crust, should be - rolled out thick,) notch it handsomely, and bake it well. It should be - eaten warm.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SOFT CRABS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - These are crabs that, having cast their old shells, have not yet assumed - the new ones. In this, the transition state, they are considered - delicacies. Put them into fast-boiling water, and boil them for ten - minutes. Then take them out, drain them, wipe them very clean, and prepare - them for frying by removing the spongy part inside and the sand-bag. Put - plenty of fresh lard into a pan; and when it boils fast, lay in the crabs, - and fry them well, seasoning them with cayenne. As soon as they are done - of a nice golden color, take them out, drain off the lard back into the - pan, and lay them on a large <i>hot</i> dish. Cover them to keep warm - while you fry, in the same lard, all the best part of a fresh lettuce, - chopped small. Let it fry only long enough to become hot throughout. When - you serve up the crabs cover them with the fried lettuce. Stir into the - gravy some cream, or a piece of nice fresh butter rolled in flour; and - send it to table in a sauce-boat, seasoned with a little cayenne. - </p> - <p> - Soft crabs require no other flavoring. They make a nice breakfast-dish for - company. Only the large claws are eaten, therefore break off as useless - the small ones. - </p> - <p> - Instead of lettuce, you may fry the crabs with parsley—removed from - the pan before it becomes brown. Pepper-grass is still better. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TERRAPINS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - In buying terrapins select the largest and thickest. Like all other - delicacies,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> - the best are the cheapest in the end. Small poor terrapins are not worth - the cost of the seasoning. A poor terrapin, poorly dressed, is indeed a - poor thing, and is always recognized as such, by those who are expected to - eat it. <i>Get fine terrapins only.</i> Put them into a pot of water that - is boiling very hard at the time, and let them boil for about ten minutes. - Immediately on taking them out, proceed to rub, with a coarse clean cloth, - all the skin from the head, neck, and claws—also, the thin shell, as - it comes loose. Having washed them in warm water, put the terrapins into a - clean pot with fresh water, and a table-spoonful of salt, and boil them - again till they are thoroughly done, and the paws are perfectly soft. - Remove the toe-nails. Some terrapins require three hours. When they are - quite soft, open them carefully, remove the spongy part, the sand-bag, the - gall, and the entrails—it being now the custom to throw away the - whole of the disgusting garbage, always tasteless, tough, and disagreeable - to look at. Be careful not to break the gall, as it will give an - unpleasant bitter taste to the whole. Cut into small pieces all the meat - of the terrapins, put them into a stew-pan, (adding the juice they have - yielded in cutting up, <i>but no water</i>,) and proceed to season them, - beginning with cayenne and black pepper, to your taste; also, a handful of - flour for the thickening. Stir all well together, and in a short time add - four table-spoonfuls of cream, or fresh butter, and a half pint of Madeira - or sherry to every four terrapins. If they have no eggs, make up some<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> - artificially; crumbling the yolks of hard-boiled common eggs, mashed to a - paste with a little nice butter, and then made into balls with beaten raw - egg. Add plenty of these to the stew, and let the whole cook together for - a quarter of an hour longer. Serve it up hot, in a well heated covered - dish. - </p> - <p> - Four fine large terrapins generally make one dish; and the above is the - usual quantity of seasoning for them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - NEW WAY OF DRESSING TERRAPINS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - In buying terrapins, select those only that are large, fat, and - thick-bodied. Put them whole into water that is boiling hard at the time, - and (adding a little salt) boil them till thoroughly done throughout. - Then, taking off the shell, extract the meat, and remove carefully the - sand-bag and gall; also, <i>all the entrails</i>,—they are - disgusting, unfit to eat, and are no longer served up in cooking terrapin - for the best tables. Cut the meat into pieces, and put it into a stew-pan - with its eggs, and sufficient fresh butter to stew it well. Let it stew - till quite hot throughout, keeping the pan carefully covered that none of - the flavor may escape; but shake it over the fire while stewing. In - another pan, make a sauce of beaten yolk of egg, highly flavored with - Madeira or sherry, and powdered nutmeg and mace, and enriched with a large - lump of fresh butter. Stir this sauce well over the fire, and when it has<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span> <i>almost</i> - come to a boil, take it off. Send the terrapin to table hot in a covered - dish, and the sauce <i>separately</i> in a sauce-tureen, to be used by - those who like it, and omitted by those who prefer the genuine flavor of - the terrapin when simply stewed with butter. - </p> - <p> - This is now the usual mode of dressing terrapins in Maryland and Virginia, - and will be found superior to any other. - </p> - <p> - No dish of terrapins can be good unless the terrapins themselves are of - the best quality. It is mistaken economy to buy poor ones. Besides being - insipid and tasteless, it takes more in number to fill a dish. The females - are the best. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A TERRAPIN POT-PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take several fine large terrapins, the fattest and thickest you can get. - Put them into a large pot of water that is boiling hard; and boil them - half an hour or more. Then take them out of the shell, pulling off the - outer skin and the toe-nails. Remove the sand-bag and the gall, taking - care not to break it, or it will render the whole too bitter to be eaten. - Take out also the entrails, and throw them away; as the custom of cooking - them is now, very properly, exploded. Then cut up all the meat of the - terrapins, taking care to save all the liquid that exudes in cutting up, - and also the eggs. Season the whole with pepper, mace, and nutmeg, adding - a little salt; and lay among it pieces of fresh butter slightly rolled in - flour.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Have ready an ample quantity of paste, made in the proportion of a pound - of butter to two large quarts (or pounds) of flour, or a pound and a half - of butter to three quarts of flour, and rolled out thick. Butter the - inside of an iron pot, and line the sides with paste, till it reaches - within one-third of the top. Then put in the pieces of terrapin, with the - eggs, butter, &c., and with all the liquid. Lay among the terrapin, - square pieces of paste. Then pour in sufficient water to stew the whole - properly. Next, cover all with a circular lid, or top-crust of paste, but - do not fit it so closely that the gravy cannot bubble up over the edges - while cooking. Cut a small cross slit in the top crust. Place the pot, - with the pie, over a good fire, and boil it till the whole is thoroughly - done, which will be in from three quarters to an hour after it comes to a - boil. Take care not to let it get too dry, but keep at hand a kettle of - boiling water to replenish the pot when necessary. To ascertain if the pie - is done, lift up with a fork a little of the paste, at one side, and try - it low down in the pot. - </p> - <p> - It may be much improved, by mixing among the pieces of terrapins, (before - putting them into the pie,) some yolks of hard-boiled eggs, grated or - minced. They will enrich the gravy. - </p> - <p> - A pot-pie may be made, (a very fine one too,) of some of the best pieces - of a green turtle.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A SEA-COAST PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having boiled a sufficient number of crabs and lobsters, extract all the - meat from the shells, and cut it into mouthfuls. Have ready some fine - large oysters drained from the liquor. Cover the bottom and sides of a - deep dish with puff-paste; and put in a thick layer of crab or lobster, - seasoned with a little cayenne pepper, and a grated lemon-peel. Mix it - with some hard-boiled yolk of egg, crumbled fine, and moistened with fresh - butter. Next, put a close layer of oysters, seasoned with pounded mace and - grated nutmeg. Put some bits of butter rolled in flour on the top of the - layer. Proceed in this manner with alternate layers of crab or lobster, - and of oysters, till the dish is nearly full. Then pour in, at the last, a - tea-cupful or more of the oyster liquor, with an equal quantity of rich - cream. Have ready a thick lid of puff-paste. Put it on the pie, pressing - the edges closely, so as to unite them all round; and notch them - handsomely. Make a wreath of leaves cut out of paste, and a flower or knot - for the centre; place them on the top-crust; and bake the pie well. While - it is baking, prepare some balls made of chopped oysters; grated - bread-crumbs; powdered nutmeg, or mace; and grated lemon-peel; also, some - hard-boiled yolks of eggs, grated. Having fried these balls in butter, - drain them, and when the pie is baked, lay a circle of them round the top, - between the border of paste-leaves and the centre-knot. - </p> - <p> - This pie will be found so fine that it ought to<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> be baked in a dish which - will contain a large quantity. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO DRESS A TURTLE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The turtle should be taken out of water, and killed over night in winter, - and early in the morning in summer. Hang it up by the hind fins, and - before it has had time to draw in its neck, cut off its head with a very - sharp knife, and leave the turtle suspended. It should bleed two or three - hours or more, before you begin to cut it up. Then lay it on its back upon - a table: have at hand several vessels of cold water, in which to throw the - most important parts as you separate them; also a large boiler of hot - water. Take off the fins at the joint, and lay them by themselves in cold - water; next divide the back-shell from the under-shell. The upper part of - the turtle is called the calipash—the under part the calipee. In - cutting open the turtle, be very careful not to break the gall, which - should be taken out and thrown away; if broken, its bitterness will spoil - all around it. Take out the entrails and throw them away. The practice of - cooking them is now obsolete. So it is with the entrails of terrapins. - Using a sharp knife, cut off the fins carefully, also the liver, lungs, - heart, kidneys, &c. Wash them well, and lay them in a pan of cold - water, the liver in a pan by itself. If there are eggs, put them also into - cold water. Having extracted the intestines, stand up the turtle on end, - to let the blood run out. Afterwards cut out all<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> the flesh from the upper - and under shells, and remove the bones. Cut the calipee (or meat belonging - to the under-shell) into pieces about as large as the palm of your hand, - and break the shell. The calipash, or meat next the back-shell, may be cut - smaller—the green fat into pieces about two inches square. Put all - the meat into a large pan, sprinkle it slightly with salt, and cover it - up. Lay the shells and fins in a tub of boiling water, and scald them till - the scales can be scraped off with a knife, and all the meat that still - adheres to the shells easily removed, as it is worth saving. Clean the - fins nicely, (taking off the dark skin,) and lay them in cold water. Wipe - the back-shell dry, and set it aside. Then proceed to make the soup. For - this purpose, take the coarser pieces of flesh with the bone likewise. Put - them into a pot with a pound of cold ham cut into pieces, and eight large - calves'-feet (two sets) that have been singed and scraped, but not - skinned. If you cannot conveniently obtain calves'-feet, substitute a - large fore-leg or knuckle of veal. Add four onions, sliced thin; two - tablespoonfuls of sweet-marjoram leaves; a large bunch of basil; a dozen - blades of mace; and a salt-spoon of cayenne. The ham will make any other - salt unnecessary. Pour on as much water as will completely cover the - whole, and let it simmer slowly over a steady fire during five hours, - skimming it well. If after a while the soup seems to be boiling away too - much, replenish it with a little hot water from a kettle, kept boiling - hard for the purpose. When it has simmered five hours, take<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> up the - whole, and strain the soup through a sieve into a deep pan. Wash out the - soup-pot with hot water, and return the strained soup to it, with the - liver, &c., cut in small pieces, and some of the best of the meat, and - a portion of the green fat. Have ready two or three dozen force-meat - balls, the size of a hickory nut, and made of the usual proportions of - minced veal, bread-crumbs, butter, grated lemon-peel, mace, nutmeg, and - beaten yolk of egg. Put them into the soup, and let it boil an hour - longer; also the eggs of the turtle, or some hard-boiled yolks of eggs. - After it has thus boiled another hour, add the juice and grated yellow - rinds of two lemons, and a pint of Madeira. Boil the soup a quarter of an - hour longer, and it will then be ready for the tureen. It must never boil - hard. - </p> - <p> - In the mean time, stew in another pot the finest of the turtle-meat, - seasoned with a little salt and cayenne, and a liberal allowance of - sweet-marjoram leaves rubbed fine, and mixed with powdered mace and - nutmeg. Add a pound of fresh butter, cut into pieces and rolled in flour. - When the turtle-meat has stewed an hour, put in the green fat, and add the - juice and grated yellow rinds of two lemons, and a pint or more of - Madeira, and let the whole stew slowly an hour longer. While the meat is - stewing, take the shell of the back; wash it clean, and wipe it dry; lay a - band of puff-paste all round the inside of the shell, two inches below the - edge, and two inches above it. Notch the paste handsomely, and fill the - shell with the stewed turtle. Have ready the oven, heated as if<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> for - bread. Lay a large iron baking-sheet or a square pan upon four bricks (one - at each corner) to elevate the turtle-shell from the floor of the oven. - Place on it the shell with its contents, and let it bake till well browned - on the surface. Send it to table with the shell placed on a large dish. At - the other end set the tureen of soup. Have ready (on two side dishes) the - fins stewed tender in a little of the soup, and the liver fried in butter. - </p> - <p> - This receipt is for a turtle of moderate size. A large one will, of - course, require an increased proportion of all the articles used in - seasoning it—more wine, &c. In serving up turtle at a - dinner-party, let it constitute the first course, and have nothing else on - the table while the turtle is there. - </p> - <p> - We have seen elegant silver turtle-dishes, representing the back-shell of - the animal, superbly chased and engraved, the feet for it to stand on - being paws of silver; and the fins having hollow places to hold the sauce. - This was for the stew; making a dish separate from the soup, which is - always sent to table in a tureen. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TURTLE PASTY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - When the meat has been all extracted, scrape and wash the large back shell - of the turtle till it is perfectly clean. Make a rich puff-paste. Roll it - out thin, and line with it the bottom and sides, in fact the whole of the - back-shell. Having prepared and seasoned the best pieces of the - turtle-meat, as in the preceding receipt, stew them till thoroughly done, - and very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> - tender, and when cool, fill the shell with them. Have ready an upper lid - of the same puff-paste, rolled out rather <i>thick</i>. Cover the pie with - it. Unite the edges of the upper and under crusts, very neatly, wetting - your fingers with water. Then notch them handsomely all round, and cut a - cross slit in the centre of the top or cover. Set it directly into a - rather quick oven. Bake the crust of a light brown, and send it to table - hot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LOBSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - If you buy a lobster ready boiled, see that his tail is stiff and elastic, - so that when you bend it under, it springs back immediately; otherwise he - is not fresh. If alive or unboiled, he will be lively and brisk in his - motion when newly caught. The same with prawns, and crabs. - </p> - <p> - The heaviest lobsters are the best. - </p> - <p> - To boil a lobster, have ready a pot of fast-boiling water, very strongly - salted. Put in the lobster head downward; and if the water is really hot - (it is cruel to have it otherwise,) he will be dead in a moment. Crabs, of - course, the same. A moderate sized lobster (and they are the best,) will - be done in half an hour. A large one requires from three-quarters to an - hour. Before it is sent to table, the large claws should be taken off, and - laid beside it. The head also should be separated from the body, but laid - so near it that the division is nearly imperceptible. The head is never - eaten. Split the body, and lay it open all<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span> the way down, including the - tail. If there is a good dresser of salads in the house, the lobster may - be served up ready dressed, in a deep dish, seasoned with the proper - condiments, after being cut small or minced, heaped up towards the centre - of the dish, and decorated with the small claws laid across on the top, - with the addition of green celery leaves, or parsley sprigs. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LOBSTER SALAD— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>plain</i>.)—Take a well boiled lobster. Extract all the meat - from the body and claws, cut it up small, and mash the coral with the back - of a spoon or a broad knife. Wash the best part of a fresh lettuce, and - cut that up also, omitting all the stalk. Mix together the chopped lobster - and the lettuce, and put them into a salad bowl. Make the dressing in a - deep plate, allowing for one lobster a salt-spoon of salt, half as much of - cayenne, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, (tarragon mustard is best,) four - table-spoonfuls (or more) of sweet oil, and three table-spoonfuls of the - best cider vinegar. Mix all these together, with the yolks of three - hard-boiled eggs, mashed to a soft moist paste with the other ingredients, - adding the coral of the lobster. When they are all mixed smoothly, add - them to the lobster and lettuce. If the mixture seems too dry, add more - sweet oil. Toss and stir the salad with a box-wood fork. Also, the things - should be mashed with a box-wood spoon. Cover, and set it in a cool place - till wanted. It should be eaten<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" - id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> as soon as possible after mixing, as it - becomes flat by standing. - </p> - <p> - Plenty of sweet oil renders a lobster wholesome. Still, persons who are - not in good health, had best abstain from lobster. - </p> - <p> - You may add to the dressing, one or two raw yolks of eggs, beaten well. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE LOBSTER SALAD— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>This is for company.</i>)—Boil eight eggs for ten minutes, or - till quite hard. Lay them in cold water, or cool them by laying bits of - ice among them. When quite cold, cut each egg lengthways into four or six - pieces, taking a bit off one end of each piece or slice. Cut up into long - pieces the best part of a fresh lettuce, that has just been washed in a - pan of cold water. Lay the lettuce in a dish, and surround it closely with - the pieces of egg standing up on their blunted ends, with the yolk side - outward, and forming a handsome wall all round the bed of lettuce. Upon - this, pile neatly the bits of chopped lobster, finishing with the small - claws stuck into the top. Have ready the dressing in a sauce-tureen. Make - it of the beaten yolks of two raw eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of sweet - oil, thickened with the mashed coral of the lobster, and the crumbled - yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and season slightly with a little salt, - cayenne, and a spoonful of tarragon mustard. Finish with two - table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and stir the whole hard with a box-wood spoon - or fork.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span> - Send it to table with the sauce-tureen, along with the dish of lobster, - &c. Pour on each plate of lobster a portion of this dressing. Or, if - you can obtain no lettuce, mix this dressing at once with the chopped meat - of the lobster. Smooth it in a pile on the dish, (keeping it towards the - centre) and stand up the slips of hard egg handsomely surrounding it—the - small claws decorating the top. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LOBSTER RISSOLES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Extract all the meat from the shells of one or two boiled lobsters. Mince - it very fine; the coral also. Season it with a little salt and cayenne, - and some powdered mace and nutmeg. Add about a fourth part of finely - grated bread-crumbs; and with a sufficiency of fresh butter or a little - finely-minced veal suet, or some sweet oil, make it up into balls or - cones. Brush them over with yolk of egg, dredge them lightly with flour, - and fry them in lard. Introduce them as a side dish at a dinner party, or - as an accompaniment to salmon. - </p> - <p> - This mixture may be baked in puff-paste as little patties, or you may bake - in a soup-plate an empty shell of paste, and when done, (having stewed the - rissole mixture made moist) fill the cold paste with it, and serve it up - as a lobster pie. - </p> - <p> - In buying lobsters, choose those that are the heaviest and liveliest, or - quickest in their motions when touched. They are then fresh. The hen has - the broadest tail and the softest fins.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LOBSTER PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the empty back shell of one large boiled lobster, and all the best - meat of two. Clean out the shell very nicely; washing it, and wiping it - dry. Mince the meat, and mash the coral with it; adding half a dozen yolks - of hard-boiled eggs crumbled among it, and season it well with powdered - mace and nutmeg, and a little cayenne. Moisten it all through with plenty - of sweet oil, and the raw yolks of one or two eggs, well beaten. Fill the - shell with this pudding, and cover the surface of the mixture with a - coating of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Brown it by holding over it a - salamander, or a red hot fire-shovel. Send it to table in the shell, laid - on a china dish. - </p> - <p> - Small puddings may be made as above, of crab-meat put into several large - crab-shells, and placed side by side on a dish. - </p> - <p> - They may be eaten either warm or cold; and they look well with green - lettuce or pepper-grass, disposed fancifully among them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CRABS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Crabs are seldom eaten except at the sea-shore, where there is a certainty - of their being fresh from the water. They are very abundant, but so little - is in them, that when better things are to be had, they are scarcely worth - the trouble of boiling and picking out the shell. They are cooked like - lobsters, in boiling salt and water, and brought to table piled on large - dishes, and are eaten with salt, pepper, sweet oil, and<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> vinegar. - The meat of two dozen crabs, when all is extracted, will make but a small - dish. Season it with cayenne, mustard, oil, vinegar, and eat it cold; or - stew it with fresh butter, powdered mace, and nutmeg, and serve it up hot. - </p> - <p> - <i>Prawns.</i>—The same. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SHRIMPS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Of all fish belonging to the lobster species, shrimps are the smallest. In - England, where they abound, they are sold by the quart, ready boiled. The - way to eat them is to pull off the head, and squeeze the body out of the - shell by pressing it between your fore-finger and thumb. At good tables - they are only used as sauce for large fish, squeezed out of the shell, and - stirred into melted butter. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LOBSTER SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a small hen lobster that has been well boiled. Extract all the meat, - and chop it large. Take out the coral, and pound it smooth in a marble - mortar, adding, as you proceed, sufficient sweet oil. Make some nice drawn - butter, allowing half a pound of nice fresh butter to two heaped - table-spoonfuls of flour, and a pint of hot water. Mix the butter and - flour thoroughly, and then gradually add to them the coral, so as to give - a fine color. Then mix this with a small pint of boiling water. Hold the - saucepan over the fire, (shaking it about till it simmers) but do not let - it quite boil. Put in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" - id="Page_138">[138]</a></span> chopped lobster, and let that simmer in the - sauce, till well heated. To allow it to boil will spoil the color, (which - should be pale pink,) and may be improved by a little prepared cochineal. - Or, you may tie, in a small bit of thin muslin, a few chips of alkanet, - and put it into the sauce, (taking it out, of course, before it goes to - table.) Alkanet communicates a beautiful pink color, and has no taste in - itself. - </p> - <p> - This quantity of sauce is for a large fish—salmon, cod, turbot, or - sheep's head. There should always be an ample supply of sauce. It is very - awkward for the sauce to give out, before it has gone round the company. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="BEEF" id="BEEF"></a>BEEF. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROASTING BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The prime piece of beef for roasting is the sirloin; but being too large - for a small family, the ribs are generally preferred, when there are but - few persons to eat of it. So also is the baron, or double sirloin, - undivided along the back. It is chiefly seen at great dinners. Except the - sirloin and ribs, there are no very good roasting pieces, all the rest - being generally used for stews, soups, &c., and for corning or - salting. Unless the animal is a very fine one, the inferior pieces are apt - to be tough, hard, and coarse. The round is the best piece for corning or - salting, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> - for cooking, as beef <i>a-la-mode</i>, or converting into what, in - England, is called rump-steaks. These steaks require a rolling-pin, before - they can be made tender enough for good eating, or good digestion. The - finest and tenderest steaks are those cut from the sirloin. The meat of a - young well-fed heifer is very good; and that of an old ox, (that has done - working, and afterwards been fattened well on plenty of wholesome food,) - may be made of superior excellence. The lean of good fresh beef is of a - bright red color, a fine close grain, and feels tender to the touch on - pinching it between your thumb and finger. The fat is firm and very nearly - white. The suet about the kidney, firm and quite white. If, on the - contrary, the lean is coarse, tough, and of a dull color, and the fat - scanty, yellow, and moist, do not buy that meat for any purpose. The same - rules will apply to mutton. If the weather is so cold that the meat is - frozen, thaw it by lying it all night or early in the morning in a tub of - <i>cold</i> water. If thawed in water the least warm, the meat will spoil, - and be rendered unfit to eat. Meat that has been frozen, requires a much - longer time to cook, than if that accident had not happened. <i>All</i> - frozen animals must be thawed in cold water previous to cooking. Cold - roast-beef is much liked in England. In America, where meat is more - abundant, and therefore less costly, it is not considered a proper dish to - place before a visitor; therefore, in our country, a large piece is seldom - cooked with a view to next day's dinner. We prefer smaller pieces,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> always - served up fresh and hot. Beef for roasting, should be well washed in - plenty of cold water; then dried with a clean cloth. Prepare the fire, in - time to be burning well, when the meat is put down. It should have plenty - of hot coals, and no part of the fire black, ashy, or smoky, and the - hearth swept very clean: <i>for no sweeping must go on while the meat (or - any thing else) is cooking</i>. The spit should always be kept perfectly - clean, when not in use; and well washed, wiped, and rubbed immediately - after using. Run it evenly into the meat, which will hang crooked if not - well balanced. When first put down, take care not to set it at once too - close to the fire, but place it rather more than two feet distant, that - the meat may heat gradually. If too near the fire at first, the outside - will scorch, and leave the inside red and bloody. Underdone meat - (foolishly called <i>rare</i>) is getting quite out of fashion, being - unwholesome and indigestible, and to most Americans its savour is - disgusting. To ladies and children it is always so, and even the English - have ceased to like it. It is now seldom seen but at those public tables, - where they consider it an object to have as little meat as possible eaten - on the first day, that more may be left for the second day, to be made - into indescribable messes, with ridiculous French names, and passed off as - French dishes, by the so-called French cook, who is frequently an - Irishman. - </p> - <p> - At first, baste the meat as soon as it begins to roast, with a little - fresh butter, or fresh dripping saved from yesterday's beef. Then, when - its own<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> - fat begins to drip, baste it with that, all the while it is cooking. - Gradually move it nearer to the fire, turning the spit round frequently, - so that the meat may be cooked equally on all sides. When it is nearly - done, sprinkle it slightly, with a little salt. When it is quite done, and - you take it from the spit, put it on a large hot dish, and keep it warm - while you skim the gravy, thoroughly, so as to remove <i>all</i> the fat. - Then mix in the gravy a small tea-cup full of hot water, and thicken it - with a very little browned flour. Send it to table very hot. - </p> - <p> - As a general rule, a sirloin, weighing fifteen pounds, will require about - four hours (or more) before a good steady fire. If it has been frozen, it - will take much longer. The fatter it is the more cooking it will require. - When sent to table, place near it, a small sauce-shell of horse-radish, - washed, scraped fine, and moistened with the best vinegar. Put a tea-spoon - on the top to take it with. Pickles, and a bottle of French mustard, at - good tables, are generally accompaniments to beef or mutton, whether - roasted or boiled. - </p> - <p> - The dripping of roast beef, after all the fat has been removed, and the - basting of the meat is over, should be strained into a pan, and kept in a - cold place, with a cover; and next day, when it is congealed into a cake, - scrape off whatever impurities may still adhere to the bottom, transfer it - to a covered jar, and set it in the refrigerator, or where it will be - cold. The dripping of roast beef is excellent for frying, for plain - pie-crust, or for many other purposes. The dripping of mutton (being - tallow)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> - is only fit for soap-fat, and will spoil any dish whatever. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED BEEF STEAKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The best steaks are those from the tender-loin. Those from the round or - rump require beating with a rolling-pin. A steak-mallet tears them and - destroys the juices of the meat. Without beating they will generally be - found too tough or hard for an American taste, though much liked in - Europe, where tender-loin steaks are considered too expensive. But they - are here so much preferred, that, on good tables, any others are seldom - seen. Have all the steaks nearly of a size and shape, and about half an - inch thick. Trim off the fat, and cut short the bone, or remove it - altogether. Season them with black pepper, but sprinkle on no salt till - they have done cooking; as salt, if put on at first, hardens them. Set - your gridiron over a bed of bright clear coals, having first rubbed the - bars with a very little beef suet, or dripping. Not mutton fat, as it will - give the taste of tallow. - </p> - <p> - A beef steak cannot be cooked in perfection unless over wood coals. To - cook them before an anthracite fire, on an upright gridiron, is more like - toasting than broiling, and much impairs the true flavor. A gridiron of - the usual shape, with grooved or hollow bars to catch the gravy, is best - of all. Broil the steaks well; and when done on one side, turn each steak - with steak tongs; or a knife and fork, and an inverted plate. - </p> - <p> - If onions are liked, peel and boil a few; drain and mince them, and - sprinkle them thickly over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" - id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> the surface of each steak. When they are - well done, take them off the gridiron, and transfer them to a heated dish, - laying a small bit of butter upon it; and put another bit of butter on the - surface of each steak, having first sprinkled them with a very little fine - salt. What there is of their own gravy, pour round them on the dish. Send - it to table as hot as possible. - </p> - <p> - The English custom of eating what is called <i>rare</i> or underdone beef - or mutton, is now becoming obsolete. To ladies, especially, all food is - disgusting that is red and bloody-looking—and physicians have - discovered, that nothing is wholesome unless well cooked. The introduction - of French cookery has done that much good. - </p> - <p> - The onions may be stewed in butter or gravy, and served up in a - sauce-boat, seasoned with nutmeg. At the famous beef-steak club of London, - each guest is furnished with a small raw onion, to take on his fork, and - rub over his empty plate, just before the steaks are served up, which is - done one at a time, and as hot as possible, being cooked in the room. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED BEEF STEAKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sirloin steaks should be tender enough without beating. Rump steaks will - require some; but do not beat them so much as to tear the meat and exhaust - all its juices. We have seen them pounded almost into a mass of dry - shreds, scarcely adhering together. Remove the fat and bone. Lay them in a - frying-pan, with a little fresh butter dredged with flour, and season<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> them - with pepper. Fry them brown, turning them on both sides. Have ready some - onions, peeled, washed, and sliced. After you have turned the steaks, - cover them with the sliced onions, and then finish the frying, till all is - thoroughly done, meat and onions, slightly sprinkling them with salt. The - onions had best be boiled in a small sauce-pan by themselves, before they - are sliced and fried. - </p> - <p> - Put the whole on one dish, the onions covering the meat. - </p> - <p> - Mutton chops, or veal cutlets, or pork steaks, may be fried in this manner - with onions, adding to them some minced sweet marjoram, or if pork, some - sage. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF STEAK WITH OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take very fine tender sirloin steak, divested of fat and bone; cut them - not larger than the palm of your hand; lay them in a stew-pan with some - bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Strain over them sufficient - oyster-liquor to cook them well, and to keep them from burning, and to - make a gravy so as to stew, but not to boil them. Season them with some - blades of mace, some grated nutmeg, and a few whole pepper-corns. Let them - cook till they are thoroughly done, and not the least red. Then put in - some fine large oysters. Set the stew-pan again over the fire till the - oysters are plump, which should be in about five or six minutes. If cooked - too much, the oysters will toughen and shrink. When done, transfer the - whole to a deep dish, mixing the oysters evenly among the meat. Before you<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> take - them up, make some sippet or thin toast, in triangular or pointed slices, - with the crust cut off. Dip the slices (for a minute) in boiling water; - then take them out, and stand them in a circle all round the inside of the - dish, the points of the sippets upwards. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CORNED OR SALTED BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For boiling, there is no piece of corned beef so good, and so profitable, - as the round. A large round is always better and more tender than a small - one, if the ox has been well fed. A small round of beef is generally - tough. In buying it, see that it looks and smells well, as sometimes beef - is not salted till it begins to taint; and then it is done, with a view of - disguising its unwholesome and disgusting condition, which, however, will - immediately be manifest as soon as it is put on to boil, if not before. - Every sort of food, the least verging on decomposition, is unfit for any - thing but to throw away or bury. It is not necessary to buy always a whole - round of beef. You can have it cut into a half, third part, quarter, or - into as many pounds as you want. If very salt, lay it to soak in cold - water the night before, or early in the morning. Half a round (weighing - about fifteen pounds) will require about four hours to boil sufficiently. - A whole round, double that time. It must boil very slowly. If it boils too - fast at first, nothing will afterwards make it tender. The fire must be - steady, and moderate, that the heat may penetrate all through, slowly and - equally. The pot must be kept closely<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span> covered, unless for a - minute when the scum is taken off, and that must be done frequently. The - beef should, while boiling, be turned several times in the pot. It is much - the best way to boil it without any vegetables in the same pot; they - imbibe too much of the fat, particularly cabbage. Boil the cabbage by - itself in plenty of water, having first washed it well, laid it a while in - cold water, with the head downwards, and examined it well to see if there - are no insects between the leaves. The leaves on the very outside, should - be removed, and the stalk cut short. Tie a string round the cabbage to - keep it from falling apart. Put it into a pot with plenty of cold water, - and boil it an hour. Then take it out, drain it, and lay it in a pan of - cold water, or place it under the hydrant, for the hydrant water to run - copiously upon it. - </p> - <p> - When the cabbage is perfectly cold, wash out the pot in which it was - parboiled, or put it into another quite clean one, and boil it another - hour. Then take it up, and keep it warm till wanted. Before you send it to - table, lay some bits of nice fresh butter between the inside leaves, and - sprinkle on a little pepper. This is much nicer than preparing what is - called drawn or melted butter to pour over the cabbage, and far more - wholesome. Drawn butter is seldom well made, being frequently little more - than a small morsel of butter, deluged with greasy water; and sometimes it - is nearly all flour and water. Cabbage cooked as above will be found - excellent, and be divested of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" - id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> cabbage smell which is to many persons - disagreeable. - </p> - <p> - Carrots are also an usual accompaniment to corned beef. They should be - washed, scraped, cut into pieces, and split, if very large; put into - boiling water, and cooked, according to their size, from one hour to two - hours. Before taking them up, try with a fork if they are tender - throughout. When done, they are best cut into slices, a little cold butter - mixed with them, and put into a deep dish, to be helped with a spoon. - </p> - <p> - Parsnips may be dressed in the same manner. - </p> - <p> - For a plain family dinner, corned beef, cabbage, and carrots, cooked <i>exactly</i> - as above, with, of course, the addition of potatos, will, on trial, be - found excellent. - </p> - <p> - Corned beef <i>stewed</i> very slowly, in a small quantity of water, - (barely sufficient to cover the meat,) well skimmed, and with the - vegetables done separately, is still better than when <i>boiled</i>. - Mustard is a good condiment for corned beef—so is vinegar to the - cabbage. Pickles, also; French mustard is very fine with it. - </p> - <p> - Next to the round, the edgebone is the best piece for boiling. The brisket - or plate is too fat, and should only be eaten by persons in strong health, - and who take a great deal of exercise. No fat meat should be given to - children. Indeed there is generally great difficulty in making them eat - it. They are right, as it is very unwholesome for them, unless the very - leanest bits are selected from among the mass of fat.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Have tarragon vinegar on the table to eat with corned beef and cabbage. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED CORNED BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a very homely and economical dish, but it is liked by many - persons. Cut thin slices from a cold round of beef, and season them with - pepper. Fry them brown over a quick fire, and put them in a covered dish - to keep hot. Then wash the frying-pan, cleaning it well from the fat, and - put into it plenty of cold boiled cabbage, cut small, and some cold - carrots, sliced thin, adding some thin sliced suet, or beef dripping to - fry them in. When done, dish the meat with the vegetables laid around it; - adding the gravy. This is the dish called in England, Bubble-and-Squeak, - perhaps from the noise it makes when frying. It is only designed for - strong healthy people with good appetites. - </p> - <p> - It is sometimes made of salt pork or bacon; sliced potatos being added to - the cabbage. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DRIED AND SMOKED BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For this purpose have as much as you want cut off from a fine round. Mix - together two ounces of saltpetre, (finely pounded) rub it into the meat, - cover it, and let it stand a day. Then mix together half a pound of - bay-salt, an ounce of black pepper, half an ounce of ground ginger, and an - ounce of pounded mace, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves. Rub - this mixture well into the beef, put it into a deep<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> pan, and let it lie in this - pickle two weeks, turning it every day. Then hang it up in a smoke-house, - and smoke it over a fire made of corn-cobs, or maple chips. Never use pine - for smoking. - </p> - <p> - It may be eaten chipped at tea, or what is much better, stewed and warmed - in a skillet. Venison may be spiced, dried, and smoked in the same manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO STEW SMOKED BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having chipped it thin, put it into a skillet, with fresh butter, pepper, - and two or three beaten yolks of eggs. Let it stew till the beef is crisp - and curled up. - </p> - <p> - Never allow yourself to be persuaded to use pyroligneous acid in curing - dried beef or ham—instead of the real smoke of a wood fire. It - communicates a taste and smell of kreosote, and is a detestable - substitute, detected in a moment. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A SPICED ROUND OF BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large prime round of beef; extract the bone, and close the hole. - Tie a tape all round it to keep it firm. Take four ounces of finely - powdered saltpetre, and rub it well into the beef. Put the meat into a - very clean pickling-tub that has a close-fitting cover, and let it rest - for two days. Next rub it thoroughly with salt, and return it to the tub - for eight days. Then take an ounce of powdered mace, a large nutmeg - powdered, a half-ounce of pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered - cloves, (not more.)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> - Mix these spices well together, and then mix them with a pound of fine - brown sugar. Rub the spices and sugar thoroughly all over the beef, which - will be ready to cook next day. Then fill the opening with minced sweet - herbs, sweet basil, and sweet marjoram, laid in loosely and lightly. Take - half a pound of nice beef-suet. Divide it in two, and flatten each half of - the suet by beating it with a rolling-pin. Lay it in a broad earthen pan, - with one sheet of suet under the meat, and the other pressed over it. - Above this place a sheet of clean white paper, and over all put a large - plate. Set it in a hot oven, and bake it five hours or more, till by - probing it to the bottom, with a sharp knife, you find it thoroughly - cooked. It is excellent as a cold standing dish, for a large family. When - it is to be eaten cold, boil fresh cabbage to go with it. Also parsnips - and carrots. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cabbage.</i>—For this beef, red cabbage is very nice, cut small, - and stewed with butter and tarragon vinegar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A-LA-MODE BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Remove the bone from a fine round of fresh beef, and also take off the - fat. For a round that weighs ten pounds, make seasoning or stuffing in the - following proportions. Half a pound of beef suet; half a pound of grated - bread-crumbs; the crumbled yolks of three hard-boiled eggs; a large bundle - of sweet marjoram, the leaves chopped; another of sweet basil; four onions - minced small, a large table-spoonful of mixed mace and nutmeg, powdered. - Season slightly with salt<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" - id="Page_151">[151]</a></span> and cayenne. Stuff this mixture into the - place from whence you took out the bone. Make numerous deep cuts or - incisions about the meat, and stuff them also. Skewer the meat into a - proper shape, and secure its form by tying it round with tape. Put it into - a clean iron oven or bake-pan, and pour over it a pint of port wine. Put - on the lid, and bake the beef slowly for five or six hours, or till it is - thoroughly done all through. - </p> - <p> - If the meat is to be eaten hot, skim all the fat from the gravy; into - which, after it is taken off the fire, stir in the beaten yolks of two - eggs. - </p> - <p> - If onions are disliked you can omit them, and substitute minced oysters. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF A-LA-MODE— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>Another way.</i>)—Take a fine round of fresh beef, extract the - bone, and fill the place from whence it was taken with a stuffing made of - bread soaked in milk and then mashed up, butter, and some yolks of - hard-boiled eggs crumbled fine, the yellow rind and juice of a large - grated lemon, sweet marjoram and sweet basil chopped small, with some - powdered nutmeg and mace. Make deep cuts or incisions all over the outside - of the meat, and in every cut stick firmly a slip of bacon or salt pork - put in with a larding-pin. Bring round the flap and skewer to the side of - the round, filling in between with some of the stuffing. And pour round it - a pint or more of port wine. Lay it in an oven, and bake it slowly till it - is well done all through, which will require<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> some hours. Serve it up - with its own gravy under it. It is more generally eaten cold, at a supper - party. In this case, cover it thickly all over with double parsley or - pepper grass, so as to resemble a green bank. In the centre place a - bouquet of natural flowers, rising from the green bank. - </p> - <p> - French a-la-mode beef, or beef <i>a-la-daube</i>, is prepared as above, - but stewed slowly all night in lard. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF BOUILLI.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take from six to eight pounds of a fine round of <i>fresh</i> beef. Put it - into a soup-pot, with the remains of a piece of cold roast beef (bones and - all) to enrich the gravy, but use no other cold meat than beef. Season it - slightly with salt and pepper, and pour on just sufficient water to cover - it well. Boil it slowly, and skim it well. When the scum ceases to rise, - have ready half a dozen large carrots, cut into pieces, and put <i>them</i> - in first. Afterwards add six turnips, quartered; a head of celery, cut - small; half a dozen parsnips, cut in pieces; and six whole onions. Let it - boil slowly till all the vegetables are done, and very tender. - </p> - <p> - Send it to table with the beef in the middle of a large dish; the - vegetables laid all around it; and the gravy (thickened with fine grated - bread-crumbs) in a sauce-boat. Serve up with it, white potatos, boiled - whole; and mashed pumpkin, or winter squash. - </p> - <p> - This is a good dinner for a plain family.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Those who like tarragon mustard, or tarragon vinegar, may add it on their - plates. - </p> - <p> - Tomatos may be skinned and stewed with it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO STEW COLD CORNED BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut about four pounds of lean from a cold round of beef, that tastes but - little of the salt. Lay it in a stew-pan, with a quarter of a peck of - tomatos quartered, and the same quantity of ochras sliced; also, two small - onions peeled and sliced, and two ounces of fresh butter rolled in flour. - Add a tea-spoonful of whole pepper-corns, (<i>no salt</i>,) and four or - five blades of mace. Place it over a steady but moderate fire. Cover it - closely, and let it stew three or four hours. The vegetables should be - entirely dissolved. Serve it up hot. - </p> - <p> - This is an excellent way of using up the remains of a cold round of beef - at the season of tomatos and ochras, particularly when the meat has been - rather under-boiled the first day of cooking it. - </p> - <p> - A few pounds of the lean of a <i>fresh</i> round of beef, will be still - better, cooked in this manner, increasing the quantity of ochras and - tomatos, and stewing it six hours. - </p> - <p> - Cold fillet of veal is very good stewed with tomatos, ochras, and an onion - or two. Also, the thick or upper part of a cold leg of mutton; or of pork, - either fresh or corned.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" - id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO STEW SMOKED BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The dried beef, for this purpose, must be fresh and of the very best - quality. Cut it (or rather shave it) into very thin, small slices, with as - little fat as possible. Put the beef into a skillet, and fill up with - boiling water. Cover it, and let it soak or steep till the water is cold. - Then drain off that water, and pour on some more; but merely enough to - cover the chipped beef, which you may season with a little pepper. Set it - over the fire, and (keeping on the cover) let it stew for a quarter of an - hour. Then roll a few bits of butter in a little flour, and add it to the - beef, with the yolk of one or two beaten eggs. Let it stew five minutes - longer. Take it up on a hot dish, and send it to the breakfast or - tea-table. - </p> - <p> - Cold ham may be sliced thin, and stewed in the same manner. Dried venison - also. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRENCH BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a circular piece from the round, (having removed the bone,) and trim - it nicely from the fat, skin, &c. Then lard it all over with long - slips of fat pork or bacon. The place from whence the bone was taken must - be filled with a forcemeat, made of minced suet, grated bread-crumbs, - sweet marjoram rubbed fine, and grated lemon-peel; add a little salt and - pepper. Tie a tape closely round the outside of the beef, to keep it - compact, and in shape. Put it into a broad earthen jar with a cover; or - into an iron bake-oven. Add some whole pepper, a large<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> onion, a bunch of sweet - herbs, three bay-leaves, a quarter of a pound of butter, divided into - small bits, (each piece rolled in flour,) and half a pint of claret, or - port wine. Bake or stew it thus in its own liquor, for five, six, or seven - hours, (in proportion to its size,) for it must be thoroughly done, quite - tender, and brown all through the inside. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED FRESH BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut a square thick piece of beef from the round or sirloin, and trim off - the fat. Put it into a stew-pan with just water enough to cover it, and - season it slightly with salt and pepper. Let it stew slowly, till tender - all through. Then add potatos pared and quartered, turnips the same; and - also, parsnips split and cut short, and (if approved) a few sliced onions. - Stew altogether till the vegetables are thoroughly cooked, and then serve - up the whole on one large dish. - </p> - <p> - Mutton, veal, and fresh pork, may be stewed in the same manner. Sweet - potatos, scraped and split, are excellent served with fresh meat. There - should be a great plenty of vegetables, as they are much liked in stews. - What is called an Irish stew is fresh beef stewed with potatos only—the - potatos being first pared, and cut in quarters. - </p> - <p> - For economy, cold roast beef may be stewed next day with fresh potatos cut - up, and as little water as possible. Cold potatos, if re-cooked, are - always hard, tough, and unwholesome.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED BEEFSTEAKS WITH OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some fine tender beef-steaks cut from the sirloin. If they are taken - from the round they should be beaten with a rolling-pin to make them - tender. Put them into a close stew-pan, with barely sufficient water to - prevent their burning, and set them over the fire to brown. When they are - browned, add sufficient oyster-liquor to cook them, and some bits of fresh - butter rolled in flour. Let them stew slowly for an hour, or till they are - thoroughly done. Then add three or four dozen of fine large fresh oysters, - in proportion to the quantity of meat, seasoning them well with nutmeg, a - few blades of mace, and a little cayenne. Cover the pan, and simmer them - till the oysters are well plumped, but not till they come to a boil. When - all is properly cooked, transfer the whole to a deep dish, and send it to - table hot. - </p> - <p> - The meat, when preparing, should be cut into pieces about as large as the - palm of your hand, and an inch thick, omitting the fat. Small clams may be - substituted for oysters. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TOMATO STEWED BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take large ripe tomatos, and scald them, to make the skins peel off - easily. Pare, quarter them, and sprinkle them with a little salt and - pepper. Lay in a stew-pan some thin tender beef-steaks, lamb, - mutton-chops, or cutlets of fresh pork. Bury the meat in the tomatos, and - add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour and a little sugar to take - off the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> - extreme acid of the tomatos; also, an onion or two, very finely minced. - Let the whole cook slowly till the meat is thoroughly done, and the - tomatos dissolved to a pulp. Send it to table all on the same dish. - </p> - <p> - A rabbit or chicken, (cut apart as for carving,) is very good stewed with - tomatos. Freshly killed venison is excellent for this stew. - </p> - <p> - Many persons mix grated bread with tomato stew. We think it weakens the - taste—a thing not desirable in any cooking. - </p> - <p> - This stew must not have a drop of water in it; the tomatos will give out - sufficient liquid to cook the meat. There is not a more wholesome dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF STEWED WITH ONIONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a square piece of beef from the sirloin, where there is no bone or - fat. With a sharp knife make very deep incisions all over it, but not - quite so deep as to cut it through to the bottom. Prepare a forcemeat by - peeling and boiling some onions. Then drain and mince them. Mix in with - the onions some fine bread-crumbs, and some chopped sweet-marjoram, - (seasoning with powdered nutmeg and mace,) and fill tightly all the - incisions. Put into the bottom of a stew-pan some drippings of roast-beef, - or else a piece of fresh butter rolled in flour. Lay the seasoned meat - upon it. Let it stew till completely cooked, and no redness to be found in - any part of it. Serve it up hot, and send it to table in its own gravy.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - A round or fillet of fresh pork may be cooked as above, putting into the - incisions, or holes, powdered sage instead of sweet marjoram, with the - onions and crumbs; and using lard instead of beef-drippings. Eat apple - sauce with it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF STEWED WITH OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Prepare two or three pounds of the best beef, by trimming off all the fat, - and removing the bone. Lay in the bottom of the stew-pan a few bits of - fresh butter rolled in flour. Then put in the meat, and sprinkle a little - pepper over each piece. Have ready a quart of large fresh oysters. Strain - the liquor to clear it from bits of the shell, and pour it over the meat - in the stew-pan. Stew the meat in the oyster liquor till it is thoroughly - cooked, skimming it well, and keeping it covered, except when skimming. - Then add grated nutmeg, and a few blades of mace. Lastly, put in the - oysters, and let them remain in just long enough to plump, which will be - in a few minutes. If cooked too much oysters always shrivel, and become - hard and tough. When all is done, serve up the whole in one dish. - </p> - <p> - In the same manner clams may be stewed with beef. Never put any salt where - there are clams. They are quite salt enough in themselves. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRENCH STEW.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut into pieces two or three pounds of the lean of fresh tender beef,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> mutton, - veal, or pork, and peel and slice a quarter of a peck or more of ripe - tomatos. Season the whole with a little pepper and salt. Add, if you - choose, a tea-spoonful of sugar to moderate the extreme acid of the - tomatos. Put the whole together into a stew-pot, and cover it closely, - opening it occasionally to see how it is doing. Put no water to this stew, - the juice of the tomatos will cook it thoroughly. Add a large - table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves. When the tomatos are all - dissolved, stir in a piece of fresh butter, dredged with flour. Let it - stew about a quarter of an hour longer. When the meat is quite tender all - through, and every thing well done, make some sippets of triangular shaped - toast, with the crust trimmed off. Dip the toast, for a moment, in hot - water; butter and stand it up all round the inside of a deep dish. Then - fill it with the stew, and serve it hot. Any meat may be stewed thus with - tomatos. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POTATO BEEF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is an excellent family dish. Boil some potatos till well done, all - through. Peel them, put them into a large pan, and mash them smoothly, - adding, as you proceed, some milk, and one or more beaten eggs, well mixed - into the potatos. Rub the bottom of a white ware pudding dish with nice - butter, or some drippings of cold beef, and cover it with a thick layer of - mashed potatos. Next, put in thin slices of beef, (omitting the fat,) - enough to cover<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> - the potatos. Next, add another layer of mashed potatos, evenly and thickly - spread. Then, more thin slices of beef, and then more potatos. Do this, - till the dish is full; finishing it with potatos, on the top, heaping them - up in the centre. Bake it in an oven. There must be plenty of potatos, as - they will be much liked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF AND MUSHROOMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take three pounds of the best sirloin steaks. Season them with black - pepper and a very little salt, having removed the fat and bone. Put a - quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter into a frying-pan, and set it - over the fire. When it is boiling hot, put in the steaks, and fry them - brown. Have ready a quart of very fresh mushrooms, peeled and stemmed. If - large, cut them in four. Season them with a little pepper and salt, and - dredge them lightly with flour, and add a few bits of butter. Stew them in - a separate pan kept closely covered. When the steaks are done, pour the - mushrooms over them with all their juice. Put them all (steaks and - mushrooms) into a dish with a cover, and serve them up hot. - </p> - <p> - This is a breakfast dish, or a side dish for dinner. Unless the company is - very small, four pounds of beef steaks, at least, and three pints of - mushrooms, (with butter in proportion) will be required at dinner, as it - will be much liked.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF'S HEART.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash the heart well, and soak it in a pan of tepid water till all the - blood is drawn out of the ventricles, and it is made very clean and dry. - Next par-boil it a quarter of an hour. Then stuff the cavities with a - forcemeat made of minced veal, bread-crumbs, butter or minced suet, and - sweet herbs, seasoned with a little pepper and nutmeg; or it may be - stuffed simply with sage and onions. Sew up the openings with coarse brown - thread, lest the forcemeat should fall out. Put the heart on a spit, and - roast it before a clear fire, for near two hours; basting it well with - nice fresh butter. Thicken the gravy with a little flour, and stir into it - a glass of port wine, or of tarragon vinegar. Have ready a hot dish and a - heated cover. Serve up the heart as hot as possible, for it soon chills, - and pour the gravy around it. The gravy should be heated to a boil in a - small sauce-pan. - </p> - <p> - <i>Calves' Hearts</i> are cooked in the same manner. As they are small, it - takes four calves' hearts to make a dish. - </p> - <p> - Hearts may be sliced and stewed with onions and sweet herbs, adding to the - stew a little salad oil. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF PATTIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A nice way of disposing of underdone roast beef, is to mince fine all the - lean, and a <i>very little</i> of the fat. Season it with cayenne, and - powdered nutmeg, or mace, or else chopped sweet herbs. If you have any - stewed mushroom-gravy, moisten the meat with that.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> Make a nice paste, and cut - it into small circular sheets, rolled out not very thin. Cover one half of - each sheet of paste with the minced beef (not too near the edge) and fold - over the other half, so as to form a half moon. Wet your fingers with cold - water, and pinch together the two edges of the half moon. Then crimp them - with a sharp knife. Lay the patties in square baking pans, prick them with - a fork, and bake them brown. Or you may fry them in lard. Serve them up - hot, as side dishes. - </p> - <p> - Cold veal, minced with cold ham, or tongue, makes very nice patties; also - cold chicken or turkey. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A BEEF STEAK PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stew two pounds or more, of fine tender sirloin steaks, divested of fat - and bone, and cut rather thin. Season them with a very little salt and - pepper; and, when about half done, remove them from the fire, and keep - them warm, saving all the gravy. Make a nice paste, allowing to two quarts - of flour one pound and a quarter of fresh butter. Divide the butter into - four quarters. Rub one half into the pan of flour, and make it into a - dough with, a very little cold water. Roll it out into a large sheet, and - with a broad knife stick over it, at equal distances, one of the remaining - divisions of butter. Then sprinkle it with more flour, fold it, and roll - it out again into a large sheet. Put on the remainder of the butter in - bits, as before. Then fold it again. Cut the paste into equal halves, and - roll them out into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span> - two sheets, trimmed into round or oval forms. With one sheet line a - pie-dish, and fill it with your meat, adding, if convenient, some - mushrooms, or some fresh oysters, or the soft part of a few clams, and - some blades of mace. Use the other sheet of paste as a cover for the pie, - uniting the edges with the under crust by crimping it nicely. Of the - trimmings of the paste, make an ornament or tulip, and stick it into the - slit at the top of the pie. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MEAT PIES— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - May be made in the above manner of lamb, veal, or pork. Also of venison or - any sort of fresh meat. Pie crust for baking should be shortened with - butter, or with the dripping of roast beef, veal, or <i>fresh</i> pork. - Mutton or lamb dripping are unfit for pie crust, as they make it taste of - tallow. Suet will not do at all for <i>baked</i> paste, though very good - if the paste is to be boiled. Butter and lard will make a nice plain paste - for pies, if both are fresh and good; the butter to be rubbed into the - flour, mixed with a little cold water, and rolled out; the lard to be - spread evenly all over the sheet; then folded and rolled out again. Meat - pies should always have a bottom crust, as the gravy it imbibes makes it - very relishing. Veal pies are insipid without the addition of some cold - ham. - </p> - <p> - Pies made of game should have a puff-paste, as they are generally for - company. - </p> - <p> - On the shores of the Chesapeake, very fine pies are made of canvas-back, - or red-neck ducks, when<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" - id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> in season. They require puff-paste to be - made in perfection. Pot-pies of these ducks are, of course, excellent. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A BEEF STEAK POT-PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two pounds or more of tender beef steaks, exclusive of the fat and - bone, which must be omitted; the steaks from the sirloin end, cut less - than an inch thick, and not larger than four or five inches square. Put - them into a pot with enough water to cover them, and season them slightly - with pepper and salt. Dredge them with a little flour, and lay on each a - morsel of nice fresh butter. Stew the steaks for half an hour. Meanwhile - make a large portion of paste; allowing to every quart or pound of flour, - a small half pound of nice beef-suet, entirely freed from all its skin and - strings, and minced with a chopper as finely as possible. To three pounds - of beef allow four quarts of flour and not quite two pounds of suet. A - pot-pie with but little paste in proportion to the meat, is no better than - a stew. The paste, if good, is always much liked. Divide the minced suet - into two halves. Rub or crumble one half the suet into the pan of flour; - adding by degrees a little <i>cold</i> water, barely enough to make a - stiff dough; first mixing in a small tea-spoonful of salt. Roll out the - lump of dough into a large sheet, and spread it all over with the - remainder of the minced suet, laid on with a broad knife. Then fold it up, - and set it on a dish in a cool place, to get quite cold. Take a large iron - pot, made very clean. Lay in the bottom the largest pieces of beef steak,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> and line - round the sides with pieces of the paste, cut to fit. Next put in the - remainder of the meat, interspersed with raw potatos sliced, (either white - or sweet potatos,) and also pieces of the paste cut into squares, and laid - among the meat, to which must be added the gravy saved from the stew. When - the pot is nearly full, cover its contents with a large round or circular - piece of paste. This must not fit <i>quite closely</i>, but a little space - or crack must be left all around for the gravy to bubble up as it boils. - Before you put on the lid pour in half a pint, or more, of water. Cut a - cross-slit in the centre of the top-crust. Set the pot over a good fire, - and let it boil steadily, till all is done, meat and paste. The - upper-crust should be well-browned. When cooked, serve the whole upon one - large dish, laying the brown upper-crust on the top of all. If there is - too much gravy, send some of it to table in a sauce-boat, first skimming - it. - </p> - <p> - It will be improved by adding to the seasoning some nutmeg or powdered - mace. These are the only spices that accord well with meat or poultry. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POT-PIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The preceding receipt is good for any sort of pot-pie. They are all on the - same principle. The meat to be divested of the fat, and stewed first in a - pot by itself, saving the gravy. The paste (of which there should always - be an ample allowance) sufficient to line the sides of the pot all round, - and reaching up nearly to the top, besides plenty of small square pieces - to intersperse<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> - with the meat, and an upper crust to cover the whole. At the very bottom - the meat and gravy only, as there the paste might burn. Pot-pies may be - made of any sort of fresh meat, or of fowls or any sort of poultry (cut - up, as if for carving,) and previously stewed. If made of chickens or - pigeons or rabbits, add a few slices of cold ham and put no other salt. - For want of suet you may make the paste with butter, but it must be fresh - and good. Allow half a pound of butter to a large quart of flour. Potato - paste is tolerable for shortening pot-pies, if you make it half mashed - potato and half lard. We do not recommend bread dough or any thing raised - with yeast or soda for boiled paste; when there is no shortening, boiled - paste is always tough and unwholesome. - </p> - <p> - Pot-pies may be made of apples pared, cored, and quartered; of peaches - quartered and stoned, or of any nice fruit. Fruit pot-pies should have - butter paste, and be well sweetened with brown sugar. - </p> - <p> - All boiled dough should be eaten warm. It falls and becomes heavy as soon - as cold. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - After clearing it from the skin and strings, mince as fine as possible - three quarters of a pound of nice beef suet. Sift into a pan two small - quarts of flour. Rub half the suet into the flour, and make it into a - paste with a little cold water, (as little as possible.) Roll it out into - a large sheet, and spread over it, evenly, the other half of the minced - suet. Fold it,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span> - flour it, roll it again, and divide it unequally into two pieces, one - nearly three times larger than the other. Roll them out, rather thick than - thin. Have ready a large pound and a quarter of tender-loin beef steak, - that has been cut into thin pieces (without fat or bone, seasoned with a - very little salt and pepper, and some nutmeg) and half-stewed, saving its - gravy. Lay this meat upon the large thick sheet of crust; pour the stewed - gravy among it, and add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Cover - it with the small round of paste, cut to fit, only allowing the lid large - enough to project a little over, so as to be joined firmly by pressing it - all round with your fingers. Do it well and securely, that it may not come - apart while boiling. Dip a large square pudding-cloth in hot water—shake - it out—lay it in a deep pan, dredge it with flour, lay the pudding - into it and tie it firmly, leaving room for swelling. Put it into a large - pot of boiling water, and boil it till, on probing with a fork, you find - the meat quite tender. - </p> - <p> - Or you may boil it in a large bowl with a rim, tying the cloth carefully - all over the top. Set the bowl in a pot of boiling water. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO BOIL TRIPE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Clean the tripe very carefully, giving it a thorough scraping, and washing - in warm water, and trim off the superfluous fat. Lay it all night in weak - salt and water. Then wash it again. Let it lie an hour or two in milk and - water, and then boil it five hours or more,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> putting it on in cold - water. It must be perfectly tender throughout. This should be done the day - <i>before</i> it is to be cooked for dinner. On that day, cut it into - strips or bands, roll them with the fat side inwards. Tie the rolls round - with small white twine, and boil them two hours longer; or till they are - <i>perfectly tender throughout, and incline to look transparent near the - edges</i>. Have ready in a saucepan, some onions peeled; and boil in milk - and water, till soft enough to mash. Then take them out; drain them; mix - with the onion-water some nice fresh butter divided into pieces and rolled - in flour. When this has come to a boil, return the onions to the liquor; - season them with pepper, and give them one boil up. When the tripe is - done, transfer it to a deep dish, and pour the onion sauce over it. When - on your plate, add to it some tarragon vinegar or mustard. Take the - strings off before the tripe goes to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TRIPE CURRY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having boiled two pounds of double tripe, cut it into slips, peel two - large onions, cut them also into dice, and put them into a stew-pan, with - three ounces, or three table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Let them stew till - brown, stirring frequently, and mixing in a table-spoonful of - curry-powder. Add a pint of milk, and the cut-up tripe. Let all stew - together for an hour or more, skimming it well. Serve it up in a tureen or - deep dish, with a dish of boiled rice to eat with it. - </p> - <p> - A good East India receipt for curry-powder, is<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span> to pound, very fine, in a - marble mortar, (made very clean,) six ounces of coriander seed, three - quarters of an ounce of cayenne, one ounce and a half of fœnugreek - seed; one ounce of cummin seed, and three ounces of turmeric. These - articles (all of which can be obtained at a druggist's,) being pounded - extremely fine, must be sifted through clean thin muslin, and spread on a - dish, and laid before the fire for three hours, stirring them frequently. - Keep this powder in a bottle with a glass stopper. It is used for giving - an East Indian flavor to stews. The turmeric communicates a fine yellow - color. - </p> - <p> - Boiled rice is always eaten with curry dishes. - </p> - <p> - Curry balls for Mock Turtle, &c., are made of bread-crumbs, fresh - butter, hard-boiled yolk of egg, chopped fine, a seasoning of curry - powder, and some beaten raw egg, to make the mixture into balls, about the - size of a hickory-nut. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED TRIPE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having boiled the tripe till perfectly tender all through; cut it into - pieces three or four inches square. Make a batter of four beaten eggs, - four table-spoonfuls of flour, and a pint of milk, seasoned with powdered - nutmeg or mace. Have boiling in the frying-pan an ample quantity of the - drippings of roast veal, or beef. Dip each piece of tripe twice into the - batter; then lay it in the pan, and fry it brown. Send it to table hot. - </p> - <p> - Tripe was long considered very indigestible. This, it is now found, was a - mistake; physicians<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span> - having discovered that it is quite the contrary, the gastric juice that it - contained, as the stomach of the animal, rendering it singularly fitted - for digestion, provided that it is thoroughly cooked; so that on trial, a - fork can easily penetrate every part of it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TONGUES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Corned or salted tongues are very little in use now. They spoil so soon, - that it is scarcely possible to obtain one that has not been salted too - late; and when quite fresh, they have a faint, sickening, doubtful taste. - It is best always to buy them dried and smoked. Choose the largest and - plumpest, and with as smooth an outside or skin as you can. Put a tongue - into soak the evening before it is to be cooked; changing the water at - bed-time. In the morning wash it in fresh water. Trim off the root, which - is an unsightly object, and never carved at table. But it may be cut into - pieces, and added to pea-soup, or bean-soup, or pepper-pot. Put on the - tongue in a large pot of cold water, and boil it steadily for five or six - hours, till it is so tender that a straw, or a twig from a corn-broom, - will easily penetrate it. When you find that it is thoroughly done (and - not till then) take it up. A smoked tongue requires more boiling than a - ham, and therefore is seldom sufficiently cooked. When quite done, peel it - carefully, and keep it warm till dinner. If well-boiled, it will seem - almost to melt in your mouth. When you dish it do not split it. The flavor - is much injured<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> - by carving it lengthways, or in long pieces. It should be cut in round - slices, not too thin. - </p> - <p> - For a large party we have seen two cold tongues on one dish. One of them - whole—the root concealed entirely with double parsley, cut paper, or - a bunch of flowers cut out of vegetables, very ingeniously, with a sharp - penknife—the vegetables raw, of course not to be eaten. Red roses - made of beets, white roses or camellias of turnips, marigolds of carrots, - &c. The stems are short wooden skewers, stuck into the flowers, and - concealed by double parsley. These vegetable bouquets can be made to look - very well, as ornaments to cold tongue, or to the end of the shank of a - ham, or to stick into the centre of a cold round of a-la-mode beef. - </p> - <p> - Where there are two cold tongues on one dish, it is usual to split one to - be helped lengthways, and garnish it with the other, cut into circular - pieces, and laid handsomely round. - </p> - <p> - Cold tongue sliced is a great improvement to a chicken pie, or to any bird - pie. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED TONGUE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having soaked a fine large smoked tongue all night, in the morning trim it - nicely, and if it still seems hard, soak it again in fresh cold water till - it is time to cook it. Then put it into a deep dish, (having trimmed off - the root,) and make a coarse paste of flour and water. Cut up the roots - into little bits, and lay them round and about the tongue, to enrich the - gravy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> - Lay all along the surface some bits of butter rolled in flour, and season - with a little pepper—no salt. Pour in a very little water, and cover - the dish with the coarse paste. Bake it till the tongue is very tender. - This you may ascertain by raising up with a knife one corner of the paste - and trying the tongue. When done, peel it, dish it, strain the gravy over - the tongue, and send it to table. Garnish with baked tomatos, or - mushrooms, or large roasted chestnuts peeled. - </p> - <p> - For a large company have two baked tongues, one at each end of the table. - Eat them warm. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LARDED TONGUE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large cold tongue, that has been well boiled. Trim off the roots. - Have ready some slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, cut into long thin - pieces, about as thick as straws. With a larding needle, draw them through - the outside of the tongue, and leave them there. Arrange the borders in - rows, or handsome regular forms, leaving about an inch standing up on the - surface. - </p> - <p> - Cold meat or poultry is far better for larding than that which is yet to - cook. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TONGUE TOAST.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make some slices of nice toast, not very thick, but browned evenly all - over, on both sides. Trim off the whole of the crust. Butter the toast - slightly. Grate, with a large grater plenty of cold tongue, and spread it - thickly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> - over the toast. Lay the slices side by side, on a large dish—not one - slice on the top of another. - </p> - <p> - Serve them up at breakfast, luncheon, or supper. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HAM TOAST— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Is prepared in the same manner, of grated cold ham spread on slices of - buttered toast. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SANDWICHES— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Are slices of cold ham, or tongue, <i>cut very thin</i>, and laid between - thin slices of buttered bread. The meat may be seasoned with French - mustard. Roll them up nicely. There are silver cases made to contain - sandwiches to eat on the road when traveling. - </p> - <p> - Sandwiches for traveling may be made of the <i>lean</i> of cold beef, - (roast or boiled,) cut very thin, seasoned with French mustard, and laid - between two slices of bread and butter. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="MUTTON" id="MUTTON"></a>MUTTON. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUTTON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - If mutton is good it is of a fine grain; the lean is of a bright red - color, and the fat firm and white. Unless there is plenty of fat the lean - will not be good; and so it is with all meat. If the lean is of a very - dark red, and coarse and hard, and the fat yellowish and spongy, the - mutton<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> - is old, tough, and strong. Therefore, do not buy it. If there is any dark - or blackish tint about the meat, it is tainted, and of course unwholesome. - If kept till it acquires what the English call venison taste, Americans - will very properly refuse to eat it. - </p> - <p> - We give no directions for disguising spoilt meat. It should be thrown - away. Nothing is fit to eat in which decomposition is commencing. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED LOIN OF MUTTON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A good loin of mutton is always very fat, so that in cooking it is well to - remove or pare off a portion of the outside fat. Unlike most other meats, - mutton is the better for being boiled in soup. Put it into a large pot; - allow to every pound a quart of water. Boil it slowly and skim it well, - adding the vegetables when the scum has done rising. The vegetables should - be sliced turnips, potatos, and grated carrots. Have ready plenty of suet - dumplings, in the proportion of half a pound of finely minced suet to a - pound and a quarter of flour. Rub the suet into the pan of flour, and use - as little water as possible in mixing the dough. Make it into thick - dumplings, rather larger round than a dollar. Boil them in a pot by - themselves, till thoroughly done. Serve up the meat with the dumplings - round it. Or put the dumplings in a dish by themselves, and surround the - meat with whole turnips. This is an excellent plain dish for a private - family. Serve up pickles with it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" - id="Page_175">[175]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This particularly applies to mutton that has been boiled in soup, and - which is so very generally liked, that it is served up on tables where - soup-meat of beef and veal is considered inadmissible. To make a suitable - sauce to eat with it—take two or three large boiled onions; slice - them and put them into a sauce-pan, with a piece of fresh butter slightly - rolled in flour, a table-spoonful of <i>made</i> mustard. French mustard - will be best; or, for want of that, two table-spoonfuls of strong tarragon - vinegar, and a half-salt-spoon of cayenne, and some pickled cucumbers - chopped, but not minced. Green nasturtion seeds will be still better than - cucumbers. Put these ingredients into a small sauce-pan, adding to them a - little of the mutton soup. Set this sauce over the fire, and when it - simmers well, take it off, put into a sauce-boat, and keep it hot till the - mutton goes to table. - </p> - <p> - To keep nasturtions—take the full-grown green seeds, and put them - into a large bottle of the best <i>cider</i> vinegar, corking them - closely. They require nothing more, and are far superior to capers. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - After nicely trimming a middle-sized leg of mutton, wash, but do not soak - it. Put it into a pot that will hold it well, and pour on rather more - water than is sufficient to cover it. Set it over a good fire, and skim it - as soon as it begins to boil, and continue till no more scum appears; - having thrown in a small<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" - id="Page_176">[176]</a></span> table-spoonful of salt after the first - skimming. After the liquid is clear, put in some turnips, pared, and, if - large, divided into four pieces. Afterwards it should boil slowly, or - simmer gently for about two hours or more. Send to table with it caper - sauce; or nasturtion, which is still better. Eat it with any sort of green - pickles. Pickles and turnips seem indispensable to boiled mutton. Do not - mash the turnips, but let them be well drained. - </p> - <p> - Setting boiled turnips in the sun will give them an unpleasant taste. - </p> - <p> - Tarragon sauce is excellent with boiled mutton. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUTTON STEAKS STEWED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some tender mutton steaks, cut from the leg. Beat them a little with - a rolling pin, and season them with pepper and salt. Put them into a - stew-pan with sliced potatos, sliced turnips, sliced onions, sliced or - grated carrots, and sweet marjoram leaves stripped from the stalks. Pour - in just sufficient water to cover the stew, and let it cook slowly till it - is tender and well done. Serve it up hot in a deep dish, with a cover. A - table-spoonful of tarragon mustard will improve the stew. - </p> - <p> - When tomatos are in season, you can stew mutton or any other meat with - tomatos only—no water. Having prepared the meat, and laid it in the - stew-pan, cover it with tomatos, peeled and quartered. Add some sugar to - take off a portion of their acid, and a chopped onion. No water, as<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> the meat - will cook in the liquid of the tomatos. They must stew till thoroughly - dissolved. - </p> - <p> - Tender-loin beef steaks—or veal cutlets, may be stewed as above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUTTON CHOPS BROILED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The best steaks are those cut from the loin, about half an inch thick. - Divest them of the bone, and remove the skin and fat. Then butter them - slightly all over, before cooking. This will be found an improvement. The - French go over them with salad oil, which is still better. Sprinkle on - them a little pepper and salt. Having heated the gridiron well over a bed - of very hot live coals, place it somewhat aslant, grease its bars with a - little of the mutton suet, and lay on the steaks and broil them well; - turning them three or four times, and seeing that they are not scorched or - burnt on the outside, and red or raw when cut. Turn them with a knife and - fork, or with steak-tongs, an instrument with which every kitchen should - be furnished. To cook them well requires a clear glowing fire, without - blaze or smoke. They should be done in about a quarter of an hour. When - you take them up, turn them on a well-heated dish, and pour their gravy - over them. - </p> - <p> - If onions are liked, mince one as fine as possible, and strew it over the - steaks while broiling; or, boil and slice some onions, mix some butter - among them, season them with pepper, and a little<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span> powdered mace or nutmeg, - and serve them up with the meat on the same dish, or in a sauce-boat. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUTTON CHOPS WITH TOMATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Broil some mutton steaks in the above manner, and have ready some baked - tomatos. When the steaks are dished, lay on each a large baked tomato with - the face downward, or cover each steak with stewed tomato sauce. For - baking, take fine ripe tomatos of the largest size. Cut out a piece from - the stem end, and extract the seeds. Then stuff each tomato with grated - bread-crumbs, butter, and minced sweet marjoram, or finely minced onion. - If you have any cold veal or chicken, add a little of that to the - stuffing, mincing it, of course. Bake them in a dish by themselves. - </p> - <p> - Or, you may send the steaks to table with a slice of fried egg-plant laid - upon each; buttered, and sprinkled with bread-crumbs. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUTTON STEAKS FRIED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a nice batter of grated bread-crumbs, milk and beaten egg, and put it - in a shallow pan. Prepare some fine steaks cut from the loin, divested of - fat, and with the bone cut short. Have ready, in a hot frying-pan, some - fresh butter or drippings. Dip each steak twice over in the batter, then - fry them brown. Send them to table very hot. - </p> - <p> - You may fry mutton chops like beef steaks, covered with onions, boiled, - drained, and sliced.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POTATO MUTTON CHOPS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut some nice chops or steaks from the best end of a neck of mutton. The - loin will be still better. Trim off all the fat, but leave a small part of - the bone visible, nicely scraped. Season them with pepper and salt, and - fry them in butter or drippings. Have ready plenty of mashed potatos with - which cover the chops all over separately, so as to wrap them up in the - mashed potatos. Glaze them with beaten egg, and brown them with a - salamander or a red-hot shovel. This is a nice breakfast dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - KEBOBBED MUTTON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is an Asiatic dish, much approved by those who have eaten it in - Turkey or India, and it is certainly very good. Remove the skin from a - loin of mutton, and also the whole of the fat. Divide it at every joint, - cutting all the steaks apart, and making separate steaks of the whole - loin. Make a mixture of grated bread-crumbs, minced sweet-herbs, a little - salt and pepper, and some powdered nutmeg. Have ready some beaten yolk of - egg. Dip each steak into the egg then; twice into the seasoning. Roll up - each steak round a wooden skewer, and tie them on a spit with packthread. - Roast them before a clear fire, with a dripping-pan under them to catch - the gravy, which must be skimmed frequently. They must be roasted slowly - and carefully, taking care to have them thoroughly cooked, even to the - inmost of every roll. Baste them with just butter enough to keep<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span> them - moist. When done, carefully take the kebobs from the skewers, and send - them to table hot. Eat with them large Spanish chestnuts, roasted and - peeled; or else sweet potatos, split, boiled, and cut into short pieces. - Pour the gravy into the dish under the kebobs. - </p> - <p> - Instead of rolling up the kebobs, you may fasten them flat (after - seasoning,) with the same spit going through them all, and roast them in - that manner. They should all be of the same size and shape. To dish them, - lay them one upon another in an even pile. Eat mushroom sauce with them, - or any other sort that is very nice. - </p> - <p> - Venison steaks are very good kebobbed in this manner, at the season when - venison can be had fresh, tender, and juicy. For sauce have stewed wild - grapes, mashed and made very sweet with brown sugar, or grape jelly, which - is still better; or, sauce made of fine cranberries, such as abound in the - north-west. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - AN IRISH STEW.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take three pounds of thick mutton cutlets from the loin, and remove the - fat. Slice thick five pounds of fine potatos that have been previously - pared. Place a layer of meat in the bottom of a stew-pan, or an iron pot, - and lay some of the potatos upon it. Season all with salt and pepper. Upon - this another layer of meat—then some potatos again, then meat, and - so on till all is in, finishing with potatos at the top. Pour in a pint of - cold water. Let it sim<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" - id="Page_181">[181]</a></span>mer gently for two hours or more, till the - meat and potatos are thoroughly done. Serve it up very hot, meat and - potatos, on the same dish. If approved, you may add, from the beginning, - one or two sliced onions. - </p> - <p> - A similar stew may be made of beef steaks and potatos. - </p> - <p> - You may stew pork cutlets in the same manner, but with <i>sweet</i> - potatos, split and cut in long pieces, or with yams. The seasoning for the - pork should be minced sage. - </p> - <p> - This is a very plain, but very good dish, if made of nice fresh meat and - good potatos, and well cooked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LAMB.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The vein in the neck of the fore-quarter should be blueish, and firm—otherwise - do not buy it. If greenish or yellowish, it is tainted, and fit only for - manure. Never buy any thing that has been kept too long. The worst may, by - some process, be a little disguised, but nothing can render wholesome any - article of food in which decomposition has commenced, even in the - slightest degree. The fat should be quite white. If there is but little - meat on the shoulder it has not been a good lamb. In America, where food - is abundant, there is no occasion to eat any thing, that has the flavor in - the least changed by keeping. - </p> - <p> - A fore-quarter of lamb comprises the shoulder, the neck, and the breast - together. The hind-quarter is the loin and leg. Lamb comes in<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> season - in the beginning of April, if the spring is not unusually backward. - </p> - <p> - Jersey lamb is sometimes garlicky early in the season. Avoid buying it; - you can easily tell it by the garlicky smell. It can only be rendered - eatable by stewing, or frying it with plenty of onions. To plain roast or - boil garlicky meat is in vain. Beef, also, is sometimes garlicky. - </p> - <p> - Lamb may be cooked in every way that is proper for mutton. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROAST LAMB.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The roasting pieces for lamb are the fore-quarter, and hind-quarter; and - the saddle, or both hind-quarters together, not having been cut apart. If - the saddle is cooked whole, it should be of a small delicate lamb, nice - and fat, and is then a fashionable dish at company dinners. Like all other - young meat lamb should always be thoroughly done, not the least redness - being left perceptible any where about it. A hind-quarter of eight pounds - will require at least two hours—a fore-quarter, rather longer. It - should be placed before a clear brisk fire, but not very near at first. - Put a little water in the dripping-pan, and baste it with that till it - begins to cook, adding a little nice fresh butter. Then place it nearer - the fire, and when the gravy begins to fall, baste it with that, and - repeat the basting very frequently. When the lamb drops white gravy it is - nearly done, and you may prepare for taking it up. Skim the gravy that is - in the dripping-pan till all the fat is taken<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> off. Then dredge over it a - little flour, and send it to table in a gravy boat, having stirred in one - or two table-spoonfuls of currant jelly. Lettuce is always an - accompaniment to cold lamb. - </p> - <p> - In carving a fore-quarter of lamb it is usual to take off the shoulder - from the ribs, put in a slice of fresh butter, sprinkle it with a little - cayenne, and squeeze over the divided parts a fresh lemon cut in half; and - put, for that purpose, on a small plate beside the carver. - </p> - <p> - The vegetables to be eaten with lamb are, new potatos, asparagus, green - peas, and spinach. Mint sauce is indispensable. French cooks seldom - understand how to make it. To do it properly, take a large bunch of fresh - green mint, wash it, and when you have shaken the wet from them, mince the - leaves very fine, omitting the stems. Put the leaves, when chopped, into a - small tureen or sauce-boat, and pour on a sufficient quantity of the best - cider vinegar to moisten the mint thoroughly, but not to render it the - least liquid or thin. It should be as thick as horse-radish, prepared to - eat with roast beef. Mix in sufficient sugar to make it very sweet. Good - brown sugar will do. At table put a tea-spoonful on the side of your - plate. Those who make mint sauce thin and weak, and pour it over the meat - like gravy, know nothing about it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LAMB STEAKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut some nice cutlets or steaks (without any bone) from a hind-quarter of - lamb. Lay them in a stew pan, and season them<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span> with a little salt and - cayenne, adding some butter rolled in flour. Wash carefully two fine fresh - lettuces. Remove the outside leaves, quarter the lettuces, and cut off all - the stalks. Set the stew-pan, with the meat, over a clear fire; and let it - stew slowly till about half done. Then put in the lettuce, covering the - meat with it, and let them all stew about half an hour longer. When done, - take out the lettuces first. Put them into a sieve or cullender, press out - the water, and chop them <i>large</i>. See if the meat is done all - through. If it is, return the stewed lettuce to the pot, season it with a - little cayenne and some salad oil, and add to it two or three hard-boiled - eggs, chopped large. Cover it, and let it stew five minutes longer. Serve - it up on the same dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LAMB CUTLETS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut the cutlets from the loin and trim them nicely, removing the skin, and - most of the fat. Scrape the bone, and cut it short. Grate plenty of stale - bread, and mix it with some minced sweet marjoram, seasoned with salt and - pepper. Have ready a small deep dish of light beaten egg, flavored with - grated nutmeg and fresh lemon-peel, grated fine, the thin yellow rind - only. Put some nice lard or beef-dripping into a hot frying-pan, and when - the lard boils is the time to put in the cutlets. Dip every cutlet - separately into the beaten egg. Then into the bread-crumbs, &c. Repeat - this a second time both with the egg and bread. The cutlets will be found - much better for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> - the double immersion. Then lay them separately in the boiling lard, and - fry them well. One cutlet must not be laid on the top of another. When - done, dish them and send them to table very hot, with some currant jelly - to mix with the gravy. This is a fine breakfast dish or for a small - dinner. - </p> - <p> - Instead of frying, you may broil them. Dip each cutlet twice into the egg - and twice into the crumbs, and cover each with clean writing paper, cut of - a convenient shape, and secured with pins or packthread, the paper being - twisted round the end of the bone. Broil them in the papers, which must be - taken off before the cutlets go to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LAMB CHOPS, STEWED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut a loin of lamb into chops or steaks, removing the bone, or else sawing - it very short. Trim off the skin and part of the fat. Season the chops - with a little pepper and salt, and fry them in fresh butter till they are - of a pale brown color. Then pour off the fat and transfer the steaks to a - stew-pan. Add enough boiling water to cover them; and having seasoned them - with some powdered nutmeg or some blades of mace, add a pint of shelled - green peas that have been already parboiled, or a pint of the green tops - of asparagus cut off after boiling, and a fresh lettuce stripped of its - outside leaves and stalks and quartered. Finish with a small quarter of a - pound of fresh butter cut in pieces and rolled in flour, and laid among - the vegetables. Let them all stew together with the meat, for half an hour - rather<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> - slowly. Serve up all upon one large dish. It will make an excellent plain - dinner for a small family, with the addition of a dish or two of new - potatos, if they are in season. - </p> - <p> - You may omit the lettuce, and add more peas and asparagus tops. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LARDED LAMB.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut off the fillet or round from a nice hind-quarter of lamb, and remove - the bone from the centre. Make a stuffing or forcemeat of bread-crumbs, - fresh butter, sweet marjoram, and sweet basil, minced finely; the yellow - rind of a fresh lemon, grated; and a tea-spoonful of mixed nutmeg and - mace, powdered. Fill with this stuffing the hole from whence the bone was - taken, and secure the flap round the side of the meat, putting plenty of - stuffing between. Then proceed to lard it. Cut a number of long thin slips - of the fat of ham, bacon, or corned pork. All these slips must be of the - same size. Take one at a time between the points of the larding-needle, - and draw it through the flat surface of the top, or upper side of the - meat, so as to leave one end of the ham in, as you slip the other end out - of the needle. Do this nicely, arranging the slips of ham in regular form, - and very near together. Put the lamb into an iron oven, or bake-pan, with - a small portion of lard or fresh butter under it, and bake it thoroughly. - When the meat is about half done, put in a quart or more of nice green - peas with sufficient butter to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" - id="Page_187">[187]</a></span> cook them well. Serve up the lamb with the - peas round it, on the same dish. - </p> - <p> - This is a dish for company. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LAMB PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Remove the fat and bone from two pounds or more of nice lamb steaks, or - take some cutlets from the upper end of a leg of lamb, and cut them into - pieces about as large as the palm of your hand. Season them with pepper - and salt very slightly. Put them into a stew pot with a <i>very little - water</i>, and let them stew for half an hour or more. In the mean time, - make a nice paste, allowing half a pound of fresh butter to a pound of - flour. Mix with a broad knife half the butter with the flour, adding - gradually enough of cold water to make a dough. Roll out the dough into a - large thin sheet, and spread all over it with the knife the remainder of - the butter. Fold it, sprinkle it with a little flour, and then divide it - into two sheets, and roll out each of them. That intended for the upper - crust to be the thickest. Line with the under crust the bottom and sides - of a pie-dish. Put in the stewed lamb with its gravy. Intersperse some - blades of mace. Add some potatos, sliced, and some sliced boiled turnips. - Cover the meat thick with the green tops of boiled asparagus, and lay - among it a few bits of fresh butter. For asparagus tops you may substitute - boiled cauliflower seasoned with nutmeg. Put on the paste-lid, closing the - edges with crimping them nicely. Cut a cross-slit on the top. Put the pie - directly into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span> - the oven, and bake it of a light brown. Serve it up hot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="VEAL" id="VEAL"></a>VEAL. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Do not buy veal unless the vein in the shoulder looks blue or bright red. - If of any other color, the veal is not fresh. A calf's head should have - the eyes full and prominent. If they are dull and sunken, the head is - stale. The kidney should be well covered with firm white fat. All the fat - must be firm, dry, and white, and the lean fine in the grain, and light - colored. If any part is found clammy or discolored, do not buy that veal. - The best pieces of the calf are the loin and the fillet. The loin consists - of the best and the chump end; the hind knuckle, and the fore knuckle. The - inferior pieces are the neck, blade-bone, and breast. The brisket end of a - breast of veal is very coarse, hard, and tough; the best end is rather - better, having sweet-bread belonging to it. - </p> - <p> - Veal, like all other meat, should be well washed in cold water before - cooking. Being naturally the most tasteless and insipid of all meat, it - requires the assistance of certain articles to give it flavor. It is too - weak to make rich soup without various additions. But well cooked, it is - very nice as roasted loin, fillet, or fried cutlets.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash the meat well in cold water, wipe it dry, and rub it slightly with - mixed pepper and salt. Make a stuffing of bread soaked in milk, or grated - bread-crumbs, cold ham minced, sweet marjoram minced, and the juice and - yellow grated rind of a lemon; also, a little fresh butter. Loosen with a - sharp knife the skin, and put the stuffing under it, skewering down the - flap to keep it in. Put the veal to roast before a strong clear fire, and - pour a little water in the bottom of the roaster. Baste it with this till - the gravy begins to run. Then baste it with that. Set the spit at first - not very close to the fire, but bring it nearer as the roasting proceeds. - </p> - <p> - Send it to table with its own gravy, well skimmed and slightly thickened - with a little flour. - </p> - <p> - Always choose a fine fresh loin of veal with plenty of fat about the - kidney. No meat spoils so soon. - </p> - <p> - The breast and shoulder are roasted in the same manner as the loin, of - which two dishes may be made, the kidney end, and the chump end. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FILLET OF VEAL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - When a fillet is to be roasted or baked, let it be well washed, and then - dried in a clean towel. Take out the bone, fold the flap round, and skewer - it to the meat. Make plenty of forcemeat or stuffing, of bread soaked in - milk, or grated dry and mixed with plenty of fresh butter, or some of the - fat or suet finely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> - minced. Season with pepper, grated nutmeg, powdered mace, fresh lemon peel - grated, and sweet marjoram and sweet basil minced fine. The hole that - contained the bone must be stuffed full, and also the space between the - flap and the side of the meat. This should be secured by three skewers. - Dredge the meat all over lightly with flour before you put it down. At - first, place the spit at a distance from the fire, which should be strong - and clear. Then, as the meat begins to roast, set it nearer, and till the - gravy begins to fall, baste it with fresh butter, or lard. Just before it - is finished, (it will take about four hours,) dredge it with flour, and - baste it well with its own gravy. When the meat is dished, skim the gravy, - thicken it with a little flour, and pour it round the veal in the dish, or - serve it in a sauce-boat. - </p> - <p> - A ham is the usual accompaniment to roast veal, whether fillet or loin. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROAST VEAL HASHED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take whatever cold roast veal was left from yesterday. To prepare it for a - breakfast dish, cut it into small bits, and put it (without any water) - into a stew-pan, adding to it the veal gravy that was left from yesterday, - and a table-spoonful of fresh butter or lard, dredged with flour. Cover - it, and after stewing it half an hour by itself, put in two large - table-spoonfuls of well spiced tomato catchup, an article no family should - be without. After the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span> - catchup is in, cover the hash again, and let it stew half an hour longer. - If you have no catchup, put in with the cold veal at the beginning, two or - three large ripe tomatos, peeled and quartered, or sliced, and seasoned - with powdered mace, nutmeg, and ginger; and let all stew together in gravy - or butter. Mushroom catchup is a good substitute for tomato in hashing - cold meat. If you have neither, put in a large table-spoonful of tarragon - or French mustard, to be bought in bottles at all the best groceries. - </p> - <p> - Cold roast venison is very good hashed as above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL A-LA-MODE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Remove the bone from a fillet of veal, and make a large quantity of - forcemeat or stuffing of grated bread-crumbs; beef-suet or veal-suet - minced fine, the grated yellow rind and juice of a ripe lemon or orange, - or some chopped mushrooms that have been previously stewed, some grated - yolk of hard-boiled eggs, and some sweet marjoram. Press in the stuffing, - till the hole left by the bone is well filled; and also, put stuffing - between the flap and the side of the meat, before you skewer the flap. - Have ready some lardons or slips of cold ham, or tongue, and with a - larding pin draw them all through the surface of the veal. Or else, make - deep cuts or incisions throughout the meat, and press down into each a - small thin square bit of bacon-fat, seasoning every one with a little of - the stuffing. Lay the veal in a deep baking-pan, or iron bake<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span>-oven. - Surround it with nice lard, and bake it till thoroughly done all through. - Then take it out, skim the gravy, and transfer it to a small sauce-pan. - Stir in a dessert-spoonful of flour; add a glass of white wine to the - gravy, and give it one boil up. Send it to table in a sauce-tureen, - accompanying the veal. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TERRAPIN VEAL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some nice veal, (from the fillet, or the loin) and cut it into very - small mouthfuls. Put it into a stew-pan. Have ready a dressing made of six - or seven hard-boiled eggs, minced fine, a small tea-spoonful of made - mustard, (tarragon or French mustard will be best,) a salt-spoon of salt, - and the same of cayenne; two glasses of sherry or Madeira, and half a pint - of rich cream. If you cannot conveniently obtain cream, substitute a - quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four pieces, and each - piece dredged with flour. All the ingredients for this dressing must be - thoroughly mixed. Then, pour it over the veal, and give the whole a hard - stir. Cover it, and let it stew over the fire for about ten minutes. Fresh - venison is excellent, cooked in this manner. So, also, are ducks, - pheasants, partridges, or grouse, making a fine side dish for company. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO HASH COLD MEAT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The best way of re-cooking cold roast meat, (veal, beef, or pork,) is to - hash it, cutting it into mouthfuls, and stew<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span>ing it in its own gravy, - without a drop of water. For this purpose, save as much as you can of the - dripping or gravy that fell from it when roasting. When you have done - basting the roast meat, skim off all the fat from the surface, and strain - the gravy through a small sieve. What is left of it, should be carefully - set away in a cold place. Next day, when it has congealed into a cake, - scrape it with a knife on both sides. If not wanted for immediate use, cut - it in pieces, and put it up in a jar well covered. Use it (instead of - water) for stews and hashes; and if well seasoned the meat will be found - nearly as good (for a breakfast dish,) as if not previously cooked. - Whenever it is possible, make your hashes without any water; and if you - have saved no gravy, substitute lard, or fresh butter. But gravy or - drippings of the same meat is best. A hash of cold meat, stewed merely in - water, and with no seasoning but salt and pepper, is a poor thing. Cold - potatos, when re-cooked, always remain hard and indigestible. In all - cookery it is best to use <i>fresh vegetables</i>, even if the <i>meat</i> - has been previously drest. Cold meat is of no use for soups or pies. It is - better to slice it, and eat it cold—or, better still to give it the - poor. Roast beef or mutton, if very much underdone, may be sliced and - broiled on a gridiron, and well seasoned with pepper. Cold roast pork is - best sliced plain, and eaten cold. Ham also.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL CUTLETS IN PAPERS (<i>en papillotes</i>.)— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a nice sauce of sweet herbs, bread-crumbs, powdered mace and nutmeg, - butter and beaten egg. Lay the cutlets in a deep dish, (having first - broiled them and saved the gravy,) pour the sauce over them, with the veal - gravy added to it. Cover them, and let them rest till cold. Allow, for - each cutlet, a sheet of foolscap paper, cut it into the shape of a heart, - and go over it with sweet oil, or fresh butter or lard. Lay a cutlet with - a little of the sauce upon it, on one-half of each sheet of paper; turn - the other half over the meat. Fold a narrow rim all round, so as to unite - both edges. Begin at the top of the heart, and pleat both edges together - so as to form a good shape without puckering. When you come to the bottom, - where the paper is to cover the bone, give it a few extra twists. Broil - the cutlets slowly on a gridiron for half an hour, seeing that no blaze - catches the papers—or put them in the oven for half an hour. If the - papers are not too much burnt or disfigured, dish the cutlets still - wrapped in them, to be removed by those who eat them. If the covers are - scorched black, and ragged, take out the cutlets and lay them on a hot - dish. Serve up with them a dish of mashed potatos or potatoe cake, browned - on the surface with a salamander. <i>Côtelettes à la Maintenon</i>, are - mutton or lamb steaks cooked in papers, in the above manner.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL STEAKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut the steaks from the neck, leaving the bone very short, and polishing - what there is of it. Make a seasoning of boiled onions minced, and sage or - sweet marjoram leaves, or of chopped parsley. Lay on each steak a bit of - fresh butter, spread the seasoning thickly over each, and fry them in the - gravy or drippings of cold roast veal or beef. They will be the better for - beating them slightly with a rolling pin. Put into the frying-pan three or - four table-spoonfuls of mushroom or tomato catchup; or, fry them with - fresh mushrooms or fresh tomatos, sliced. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL CUTLETS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut your veal cutlets from the fillet or round about half an inch thick. - Season them slightly with a little salt and cayenne. Have ready a pan with - grated bread-crumbs, and another with beaten egg. Have ready, in a frying - pan, plenty of boiling lard, or drippings of cold veal. Dredge each cutlet - slightly with flour; then dip it twice in the pan of beaten egg, and then - twice also in the bread-crumbs. Fry them well, and send them to table in - their own gravy. Saffron, scattered thickly over them while frying, is an - improvement much relished by the eaters. - </p> - <p> - Veal is too insipid to be fried or broiled plain. - </p> - <p> - If you live where cream is plenty, add to this fry two or three spoonfuls. - </p> - <p> - Minced veal, cold, is an excellent ingredient for forcemeats.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND BACON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Unless your family is very small, get two knuckles of veal, and have them - sawed into three pieces each. Put them into a pot with two pounds of ham - or bacon; cover them with water, and stew them slowly, skimming them well. - Season them with a little pepper, but no salt, as the bacon will be salt - enough. When the scum ceases to rise, put in four onions and four turnips, - and six potatos pared, and quartered; also, a carrot and two parsnips, - scraped and cut into pieces. Let the whole boil till all the meat and all - the vegetables are thoroughly done, and very tender. Drain them well, and - serve up the whole on one large dish, having other vegetables served - separately. - </p> - <p> - If you wish to have green vegetables, such as greens, young sprouts, poke, - or string beans, flavored with bacon, put them to boil in a pot with the - bacon only, and take another pot for the veal, and white vegetables, such - as onions, turnips, &c. You may put the veal and bacon on the same - dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SOUTHERN STEW (<i>of veal</i>.)— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Peel and boil a half dozen fresh spring onions, and then drain them well - and slice them thin. Have ready two pounds or more of nice veal, sliced - very thin, small, and evenly. Lay the veal in a stew-pan, and season it - slightly with salt, and <i>a very little</i> cayenne. Cover the veal with - the sliced onions, and lay upon them some bits of fresh butter rolled in - flour. If you cannot obtain very excellent<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span> fresh butter, substitute - lard, or cold gravy, or dripping of roast veal, which last will be best if - you have enough of it. Finish with a flavoring of powdered nutmeg or mace, - and the grated yellow rind of a fresh lemon. - </p> - <p> - This stew is very nice. It may be made with lamb or chicken, cut very - small. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL KEBOBBED, (<i>or kibaubed</i>.)— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut into small thin slices some lean veal from the loin, chump end, or - fillet. Trim them into a round or circular form. Season them with pepper, - salt, and turmeric or curry powder. If onions are liked, slice some large - ones, and lay them on the pieces of veal. Cover them with slices of ham, - cut round like the veal, but a little smaller. Roll up the slices, (the - ham inside,) and tie them on skewers. Then roast or bake them. When done, - take them off the skewers, and send them to table in the gravy that has - fallen from them. This is a Turkish dish, and is much liked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some thin slices of cold roast veal, and trim them round or circular. - Beat them with a rolling-pin, to make them very tender, and season them - with a little salt and pepper and some powdered nutmeg. Also some grated - fresh yellow rind of lemon-peel. Make a very light batter, of eggs, milk, - and flour; in the proportion of four well-beaten eggs to a pint of milk; - and a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span> - large half pint of sifted flour: the eggs beaten first, and then stirred - gradually into the milk in turn with the flour. Have ready a frying-pan, - nearly full of boiling lard. Drop into it two large spoonfuls of the - batter. Then put in a slice of the veal, and cover it with two more large - spoonfuls of the batter. As the fritters are fried, take them up with a - perforated skimmer, and drain them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL PATTIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mince very fine, some cold roast veal, or some cold chicken, mixing with - it some cold minced ham, or cold smoked tongue. Add some yolk of - hard-boiled eggs, crumbled or minced. Season the mixture with powdered - mace and nutmeg, moistened with cream or soft fresh butter. Have ready - some nice puff-paste, rolled out thin, and cut into oval or circular - pieces. Cover the half of each with the mixture, spread on evenly and - thickly. Then, upon that, fold over the other half, (uniting both,) and - crimp them together, in very small notches. Brush their outsides all over - with some raw egg, slightly beaten, and lay them in large square tin pans - to bake. Send them to table on china dishes. - </p> - <p> - These patties are excellent made of cold game. The green tops of boiled - asparagus will improve the mixture. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED LIVER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put into a frying-pan some nice thin slices of ham or bacon, that have - soaked all night, and fry them in their own fat. Have<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span> ready your calf's liver, - cut into slices not too thin, as that will render them hard. Take out the - ham as soon as it is done, put it into a hot dish, and cover it closely. - Lay the slices of liver into the gravy of the bacon that is left in the - frying-pan, sprinkling it well with chopped parsley. It must be thoroughly - done. Then dish with the bacon. - </p> - <p> - To those who like them, some onions will be thought an improvement to - fried liver. First parboil the onions: then slice them, season them with a - little salt and pepper, and fry them with the liver. - </p> - <p> - If lettuces are in season, quarter a fresh one, and lay it under the liver - when you dish it, having previously removed the thickest part of the - stalk. The liver of beef or sheep is not seen at good tables. It is very - inferior to that of calf's, being hard and coarse. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LARDED LIVER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash and drain a nice fat calf's liver. Liver of beef or mutton is never - seen at a good table; they are hard, coarse, and tasteless, and only eaten - by the poor, while the livers of veal and poultry are considered very - nice. Divide it into equal portions. Lard them thickly with small slips of - fat bacon, inserted at regular distances with a larding-needle, and very - near each other. Season the liver with powdered nutmeg and mace. Put into - a stew-pan, in the bottom of which you have laid a large slice or two of - fat bacon. Let it stew gently, till thoroughly done and tender throughout. - When you take the liver out of the stew-pan, stir into the gravy left at - the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span> - bottom, some thick catchup, either mushroom or tomato. Do not send the - slices of bacon to table with the liver. - </p> - <p> - If liked, surround the liver while cooking, with small button onions, - (peeled and washed,) and see that they are well done. Serve them up on the - same dish. It is best always to boil onions before frying them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED LIVER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having soaked a fine calf's liver for two hours in cold water, cut it into - thick slices, and then cut the slices into mouthfuls. Chop fine a small - bunch of sweet marjoram, and sprinkle it among the liver, seasoning with - pepper, salt, nutmeg, and powdered mace. Put it into a stew-pan, and cook - it in lard or fresh butter. Make some nice toast, and dip it for a minute - in hot water, having pared off all the crust. Lay the toast in the bottom - of a deep dish, after covering it all over with the stewed liver. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LIVER RISSOLES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a calf's liver, and remove carefully all the veins. Weigh a pound of - it, boil it, and when cold, mince it very finely with a quarter of a pound - of suet, either of beef or veal. Add a quarter of a pound of finely grated - bread-crumbs. Season it with cayenne, powdered mace, and nutmeg, and a - very little salt. Mix in two well-beaten eggs. Shape them into oval forms, - about the size of large walnuts, and fry them in plenty of boiling hot - lard, draining them all on a perforated skimmer, before they go to table.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LIVER PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Prepare a fine fresh calf's liver. Split it in long pieces. Lay it in a - pan of cold water for an hour or two. Afterwards take it out and wipe it - dry, and boil it till tender. Drain it when done, and chop it large with a - slice of cold ham. Season it with pepper and nutmeg, (no salt for any - thing that has ham in it,) and add some minced sweet marjoram and sweet - basil, and two yolks of hard-boiled eggs, grated or minced. The grated - yellow rind of a fresh lemon will be an improvement. Make a very nice - light paste, and line a pie dish with it. Then fill it high with the - mixture, laying on the top several pieces of fine fresh butter. Cover it - with a lid of paste, notching the edges handsomely, and cutting a - cross-slit on the top. Bake it light brown, and serve it up, either hot or - cold. It will be found very nice. - </p> - <p> - With the same mixture you may make liver dumplings, enclosing them in a - nice paste, and boiling them; or a liver pudding, boiling the mixture in - one large paste, and tying it in a cloth, leaving room for it to swell. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHITTERLINGS OR CALF'S TRIPE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is very delicate and digestible, and is nice at breakfast, or as a - side dish at dinner. To prepare it for cooking, it should be cut open with - scissors, emptied, and thoroughly cleaned, and then laid all night, or for - several hours, in cold water, <i>slightly</i> salted. It can be bought of - the veal butchers ready prepared, and run on a wooden skewer.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span> Wash it - again just before cooking. Cut it into small pieces, and boil it slowly - till <i>quite</i> tender, in water enough to keep it well covered. When - entirely done, take it up, drain it, and keep it warm. Have ready some - onions boiled in milk till quite soft, and sliced thin. Melt some - excellent fresh butter, in milk thickened with flour. Make a round of very - nice toast, with the crust pared off. Dip it for a minute in hot water; - lay it in the bottom of a deep dish. Cover it thickly with the onion - sauce, and place the chitterlings upon it, seasoning them with pepper and - vinegar. It will be an improvement to boil with them four or five blades - of mace. Eat vinegar with it, always. Tarragon vinegar is best. This dish - deserves to be more in use. Try it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED CHITTERLINGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Get chitterlings ready prepared by the butcher. Wash them, and let them - lie an hour or two in weak salt and water. Then drain them, cut them in - pieces, and parboil them. Dry them in a clean cloth. Make a batter of two - or three beaten eggs, and a pint of milk, with a heaped table-spoonful of - flour. Put into a frying-pan an ample portion of the dripping of roast - veal or pork, and when it boils, (having first dipped each piece of the - chitterling into the batter,) fry them in the dripping. They must be - thoroughly done. You may fry them in lard, or fresh butter. - </p> - <p> - This is a nice breakfast dish.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" - id="Page_203">[203]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED CHITTERLINGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having first parboiled the chitterlings, lay among them some bits of fresh - butter, season them with powdered nutmeg, put them into a deep dish, set - it into an oven, and bake them brown. - </p> - <p> - This is a side dish at dinner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE VEAL PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil, in two quarts of water, two unskinned calf's feet, adding the yellow - rind of a large lemon, pared as thin as possible, or grated, and its - squeezed juice. Also, two broken-up sticks of cinnamon, half a dozen - blades of mace, and two glasses of sweet wine. Boil all these together - (skimming well,) till the calf's feet are in rags, and all their flesh has - dropped from the bone. Then put the whole into a jelly-bag and let it drip - into a broad bowl. Set it away closely covered. Have ready two pounds of - the parboiled chump end of a loin of veal cut into square pieces. Make a - nice puff paste, and line with it a deep pie-dish. Put the pieces of veal - into it, (all the fat cut off,) and intersperse them with a dozen or more - forcemeat balls, each about as large as an English walnut. The balls may - be made of cold minced chicken and ham, minced suet, bread-crumbs, and - hard-boiled yolk of egg grated or crumbled fine; seasoned with sweet - herbs, and grated lemon rind. Or they may be sweet balls of bread-crumbs, - butter, chopped sultana raisins, and chopped citron, seasoned with nutmeg. - Having dispersed them among the pieces of veal, put in the jelly made from - the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span> - calf's feet. Cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste, cut a cross slit in - the centre; notch the edges, and bake it brown. This pie is for a company - dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A PLAIN VEAL PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut the meat from an uncooked breast of veal, and stew it in a very little - water. Have ready a pie dish lined with a nice paste. Put in a layer of - stewed veal, with its gravy, and cover it with a layer of sausage meat; - then veal again, and then sausage meat. Repeat this till the dish is full, - finishing with the sausage. Cover it with a lid of paste, and bake it - brown. This is a cheap and easy family pie. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL LOAF.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a cold fillet of veal, and (omitting the fat and skin) mince the meat - as fine as possible. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of the fattest part - of a cold ham, also chopped small. Add a tea-cupful of grated - bread-crumbs; a grated nutmeg; half a dozen blades of mace, powdered; the - grated yellow rind of a lemon; and two beaten eggs. Season with a - salt-spoon of salt, and half a salt-spoon of cayenne. Mix the whole well - together, and make it into the form of a loaf. Then glaze it over with - beaten yolk of egg; and strew the surface evenly, all over, with bread - raspings, or with pounded cracker. Set the dish into a dutch-oven, and - bake it half an hour, or till hot all through. Have ready a gravy made of - the trimmings of the veal, stewed in some of the gravy<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span> that was left when the - fillet was roasted the day before. When sufficiently cooked, take out the - meat, and thicken the gravy with beaten yolk of egg, stirred in about - three minutes before you take it from the fire. - </p> - <p> - Send the veal loaf to table, in a deep dish, with the gravy poured round - it. - </p> - <p> - Chicken loaf, or turkey loaf, may be made in this manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED CALF'S HEAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a fine, large calf's head; empty it; wash it clean, and boil it till - it is quite tender, in just water enough to cover it. Then carefully take - out the bones, without spoiling the appearance of the head. Season it with - a little salt and cayenne, and a grated nutmeg. Pour over it the liquor in - which it has been boiled, adding a jill of vinegar, and two - table-spoonfuls of capers, or of green nasturtion seeds, that have been - pickled. Let it stew very slowly for half an hour. Have ready some - forcemeat balls made of minced veal-suet, grated bread-crumbs, grated - lemon-peel, and sweet marjoram,—adding beaten yolk of egg to bind - the other ingredients together. Put in the forcemeat balls, and stew it - slowly a quarter of an hour longer, adding some bits of butter rolled in - flour to enrich the gravy. Send it to table hot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EXCELLENT MINCED VEAL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take three or four pounds of the lean only of a fillet or loin of veal, - and mince it very finely, adding a slice or<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span> two of cold ham, minced - also. Add two or three small young onions, chopped small, a tea-spoonful - of sweet marjoram leaves rubbed from the stalks, the yellow rind of a - small lemon grated, and a tea-spoonful of mixed mace and nutmeg powdered. - Mix all well together, and dredge it with a little flour. Put it into a - stew-pan, with sufficient gravy of cold roast veal to moisten it, and a - large table-spoonful or more of fresh butter. Stir it well, and let it - stew till thoroughly done. If the veal has been previously cooked, a - quarter of an hour will be sufficient. It will be much improved by adding - a pint or more of small button mushrooms, cut from the stems, and then - chopped small. Also, by stirring in two table-spoonfuls of cream about - five minutes before it is taken from the fire. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL WITH OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two fine cutlets of about a pound each. Divide them into several - pieces, cut thin. Put them into a frying-pan, with boiling lard, and let - them fry awhile. When the veal is almost done, add to it a pint of large, - fine oysters,—their liquor thickened with a few grated bread-crumbs, - and seasoned with mace and nutmeg powdered. Continue the frying till the - veal and oysters are thoroughly done. Send it to table in a covered dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TERRAPIN VEAL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some cold roast veal, (the fillet or the loin) and cut it into mouth<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span>fuls. Put - it in a skillet or stew-pan. Have ready a dressing made of six or seven - hard-boiled eggs, minced fine; a small tea-spoonful of tarragon mustard; a - salt-spoonful of salt; and the same of cayenne pepper; a large tea-cupful - (half a pint) of cream, and two glasses of sherry or Madeira wine. The - dressing must be thoroughly mixed. Pour it over the veal, and then give - the whole a hard stir. Cover it, and let it stew over the fire for ten - minutes. Then transfer it to a deep dish, and send it to table hot. - </p> - <p> - Cold roast duck or fowl may be drest as above. Also, venison. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL OLIVES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some cold fillet of veal and cold ham, and cut them into thin square - slices of the same size and shape, trimming the edges evenly. Lay a slice - of veal on every slice of ham, and spread some beaten yolk of egg over the - veal. Have ready a thin forcemeat, made of grated bread-crumbs, sweet - marjoram rubbed fine, fresh butter, and grated lemon-peel, seasoned with - nutmeg and a little cayenne pepper. Spread this over the veal, and then - roll up each slice tightly with the ham. Tie them round securely with - coarse thread or fine twine; run a bird-spit through them, and roast them - well. For sauce, simmer in a small sauce-pan, some cold veal gravy with - two spoonfuls of cream, and some mushroom catchup.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL RISSOLES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take as much fine wheat bread as will weigh one pound, after all the crust - is cut off. Slice it; put it into a pan and pour over it as much rich milk - as will soak it thoroughly. After it has soaked a quarter of an hour, lay - it in a sieve and press it dry. Mince as finely as possible a pound of - veal cutlet with six ounces of veal suet; then mix in gradually the bread; - adding a salt-spoonful of salt, a slight sprinkling of cayenne, and a - small tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg mixed; also the yellow rind - of a lemon grated. Beat two eggs, and moisten the mixture with them. Then - divide it into equal portions, and with a little flour on your hands roll - it into oval balls rather smaller than an egg. Strew over them some dry - bread-crumbs; then fry them in lard or fresh butter—drain them well, - and send them to table hot. For gravy (which should be commenced before - the rissoles) put some bits and trimmings of veal into a small sauce-pan, - with as much water as will cover them; a very little pepper and salt; and - three or four blades of mace. Cover the sauce-pan closely, and let the - meat stew till all the strength is extracted; skimming it well. Then - strain it; return the liquor to the sauce-pan; add a bit of butter rolled - in flour; and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Give it a boil up, and - then, at the last, stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. Serve up this gravy - in a sauce-boat, to eat with the rissoles. - </p> - <p> - Instead of stewing meat for the purpose, you may make this gravy with the - drippings of roast<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span> - veal saved from the day before. You have then only to melt it over the - fire; adding the seasoning; and giving it one boil. - </p> - <p> - Similar rissoles may be made of minced chicken or turkey. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The sweetbread belonging to the breast of the calf is far superior to that - which is found about the throat, being larger, whiter, more tender, and - more delicate. Always buy them in preference. They should be set - immediately on ice, and prepared for cooking as speedily as possible, for - they spoil very soon. Soak them in warm water till all the blood is - discharged. Then put them into boiling water, and boil them five minutes. - After this, lay them immediately in a pan of very cold water. This sudden - transition from hot water to cold, will blanch or whiten them. - Dark-colored sweetbreads make a very bad appearance. Four are generally - sufficient for a small dish. But as, if well cooked, they are much liked, - it is best to have six; or else eight upon two dishes. If the sweetbreads - are to be cut up before cooking, remove and throw away the gristle or pipe - that pervades every one. If they are to be cooked whole, you may leave the - pipe in, to be taken out by the eaters. - </p> - <p> - For company, it is usual to lard sweetbreads with slips of fat ham or - bacon, or of cold smoked tongue. - </p> - <p> - Sweetbreads are used as side-dishes at dinners, or at nice breakfasts.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having trimmed some sweetbreads nicely, and removed the gristle, parboil - them, and then mince them very fine. Add grated bread, and season with a - very little salt and pepper; some powdered mace and nutmeg; and some - grated lemon-rind. Moisten the whole with cream, and make them up into - small cones or sugar-loaves; forming and smoothing them nicely. Have ready - some beaten egg, mixed with grated bread-crumbs. Dip into it each - croquette, and fry them slowly in fresh butter. Serve them hot; standing - up on the dish, and with a sprig of parsley in the top of each. - </p> - <p> - Sweetbreads should never be used unless perfectly fresh. They spoil very - rapidly. As soon as they are brought from market they should be split - open, and laid in cold water. Never attempt to keep sweetbreads till next - day, except in cold weather; and then on ice. - </p> - <p> - Similar croquettes may be made of cold boiled chicken; or cold roast veal; - or of oysters, minced raw, and seasoned and mixed as above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRICASSEED SWEETBREADS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take half a dozen sweetbreads; clean them thoroughly, and lay them for an - hour or two in a pan of water, having first removed the strings and - gristle. Then put them into a stew-pan with as much rich milk or cream as - will cover them well, and a very little salt. Stew them slowly, till - tender throughout, and thoroughly done, saving the liquid. Then<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span> take - them up; cover them; and set them near the fire to keep warm. Prepare a - quarter of a pound of butter, divided into four pieces, and rolled in - flour. Put the butter into the milk in which the sweetbreads were boiled, - and add a few sprigs of parsley cut small; five or six blades of mace; - half a nutmeg grated; and a very little cayenne pepper. Have ready the - yolks of three eggs well-beaten. Return the sweetbreads to the gravy; let - it just come to a boil; and then stir in the beaten egg <i>immediately - before</i> you take the fricassee from the fire, otherwise it will curdle. - Serve it up in a deep dish with a cover. - </p> - <p> - Chickens, cut up, may be fricasseed in this manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TOMATO SWEETBREADS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up a quarter of a peck (or more) of fine ripe tomatos; set them over - the fire, and let them stew with nothing but their own juice, till they go - entirely to pieces. Then press them through a sieve, to clear the liquid - from the seeds and skins. Have ready four or five sweetbreads that have - been trimmed nicely, cleared from the gristle, and laid open to soak in - warm water. Put them into a stew-pan with the tomato-juice, seasoned with - a little salt and cayenne. Add two or three table-spoonfuls of butter - rolled in flour. Set the sauce-pan over the fire, and stew the sweetbreads - in the tomato-juice till they are thoroughly done. A few minutes before - you take them off, stir in two beaten yolks of eggs<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span> Serve up the sweetbreads in - a deep dish, with the tomato poured over them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEETBREADS AND CAULIFLOWERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take four large sweetbreads, and two fine cauliflowers. Split open the - sweetbreads and remove the gristle. Soak them awhile in lukewarm water. - Then put them into a sauce-pan of boiling water, and let them boil ten - minutes over the fire. Afterwards, lay them in a pan of very cold water. - The parboiling will render them white; and putting them directly from the - hot water into the cold will give them firmness. Having washed and drained - the cauliflowers, quarter them, and lay them in a broad stew-pan with the - sweetbreads upon them, seasoned with a very little cayenne, four or five - blades of mace, and some nutmeg. Add as much water as will cover them; put - on closely the lid of the pan, and let the whole stew for about an hour. - Then take a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and roll it in two - table-spoonfuls of flour. Add it to the stew with a tea-cupful of rich - milk or cream, and give it one boil up, not more, or the milk may curdle. - Serve it hot in a deep dish; the sweetbreads in the middle with the gravy - poured over them, and the quartered cauliflowers laid handsomely round. - This stew will be found delicious. - </p> - <p> - Broccoli may be thus stewed with sweetbreads.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEETBREAD OMELET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For an omelet of six or seven eggs, take two fine sweetbreads. Split them, - take out the gristle, and soak them in two lukewarm waters, to extract all - the blood. Then put them into very hot water, boil them ten minutes, take - them out, set them away to cool, and afterwards mince them small, and - season them with <i>a very little salt</i> and cayenne pepper, and some - grated nutmeg. Beat the eggs (omitting the whites of two) till very light. - Then mix in the chopped sweetbreads. Put three ounces or more of fresh - butter into a small frying-pan, and place it over the fire. Stir the - butter with a spoon, as it melts, and when it comes to a boil put in the - mixture, stirring it awhile after it is all in. Fry it a rich brown. Heat - the plate or dish in which you turn it out of the pan. An omelet should - never be turned while frying. The top may be well browned by holding above - it a salamander or red-hot shovel. - </p> - <p> - If you wish it very thick, have <i>three</i> sweetbreads. - </p> - <p> - While frying the omelet, lift the edge occasionally by slipping a - knife-blade under it, that the butter may get well underneath. - </p> - <p> - If omelets are cooked too much they will become tough, and leather-like. - Many persons prefer having them sent to table as <i>soft omelets</i>, - before they have set, or taken the form of a cake. In this case, serve up - the omelet in a deep dish, and help it with a spoon.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEETBREADS AND OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take four sweetbreads, and when they have been soaked and blanched, - quarter them, and remove the pipe. Strain the liquor from three dozen - large fresh oysters, season it with powdered nutmeg and mace, and a little - cayenne. Put the quartered sweetbreads into a stew-pan, and pour over them - enough of the oyster-liquor to cover them well, adding, if you have it, - three large spoonfuls of the gravy of roast veal, and a quarter of a pound - of fresh butter, cut into four bits; each bit rolled or dredged in flour. - When the sweetbreads are done, put in the oysters, (first removing their - gristle or hard part,) and take them out again as soon as they are - plumped, which should be in five minutes. If allowed to boil, the oysters - will shrivel, and become hard and tasteless. Add, at the last, two - wine-glasses of cream, and shake the pan about, for a few minutes. Serve - up in a deep dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEETBREAD PIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make shells of puff-paste, and bake them empty. When done, fill them to - the top with the above mixture. Have ready a lid for each pie, baked on a - flat plate, and lay it on the top of the filling. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED SWEETBREADS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - After blanching them, extract the pipe very carefully, and fill its place - with a stuffing made of cold minced chicken or veal, minced ham or tongue - sweet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span> - marjoram, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and the crumbled yolks of hard-boiled - eggs. Fasten the openings with small wooden skewers, and put the - sweetbreads into a broad stew-pan with a thin slice of ham under each, and - another on the top of each, kept in place by a splinter-skewer. Stew the - sweetbreads in the gravy of roast veal, and before you send them to table - take out the skewers. - </p> - <p> - Or make a gravy of uncooked trimmings of veal or beef, stewed slowly in as - much water as will cover them well, and seasoned with pepper and salt—or, - stew with the fresh meat, as much ham or bacon as will flavor the gravy, - (using no other salt.) When all the essence is extracted from the meat, - stir in a bit of butter dredged with flour. The flour for gravies should - be browned. Strain the gravy, and add any other flavoring you like. - </p> - <p> - To brown flour, spread it evenly on a large dish or flat tin, and place it - before the fire, or in a rather cool oven. Scrape it up from the edges - where it will get the brownest. Take care it burns or blackens nowhere. - Keep it for use in a dry tin box. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED SWEETBREADS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Parboil four large sweetbreads, having first blanched them. When cold, - lard them all over the surface, with slips of bacon the size of small - straws. Lay them in a shallow pan, putting under each sweetbread a piece - of nice fresh butter with a very little flour<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span> mixed into it. Pour into - the pan a glass of nice white wine, mixed with the juice and grated yellow - rind of a lemon. Season also with grated nutmeg. Or for sauce, you may use - mushroom catchup, with a little salad oil stirred into it. - </p> - <p> - If you do not live in a place where nice fresh butter is to be obtained, - endeavor to do without butter at all, rather than use that which is - strong, rancid, or too salt. Bad butter tastes through every thing—spoils - every thing, and is also extremely unwholesome, as decomposition (or in - plain terms <i>putrefaction</i>,) has already commenced. Rather than use - what makes all your food taste worse instead of better, try to substitute - something else—such as beef or fresh pork drippings, suet, lard, or - olive oil; or, molasses, honey, or stewed fruit. <i>We know</i> that with - these it is possible to live in health for years, without tasting butter. - Nevertheless, good butter is a good thing, and an improvement to all sorts - of cookery. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="PORK" id="PORK"></a>PORK. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Young pork has a thin rind or skin, easily indented by pressing with the - finger, and the lean will break by pinching. If fresh, the meat is smooth - and dry; but if damp and clammy, it is tainted. If the fat is rough with - little kernels, the pig has had a disease resembling the measles, and to - eat it is poisonous. Pigs that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_217" - id="Page_217">[217]</a></span> have short legs, and thick necks, are the - best. Pigs fed entirely on slop make very bad pork. They should be kept up - for at least two months, fed with corn, and not allowed during the time of - fattening to eat any sort of trash. No animal tastes more of its food than - a pig. If allowed to eat the garbage of fish, they will not only have a - fishy taste, but a smell of fish so intolerable, when cooking, that such - pork cannot be endured in the house. During the two months that they are - kept up to fatten, all their food must be wholesome as well as abundant, - and it does them much good to have soap-suds given to them occasionally. - Let them have plenty of corn, and plenty of fresh water. They will thrive - better and make finer pork, if their pens are not allowed to be dirty. No - animal actually likes dirt, and even pigs would be clean if they knew how. - It is very beneficial to young pigs to wash them well in soap and water. - We have seen this often done with great care. - </p> - <p> - The pork in Spain and Portugal is delicious, from being fed chiefly on the - large chestnuts, of which there is great abundance in those countries. - These pigs are short-legged and thick-bodied—a profitable species. - The best pieces of a pig are the hind-leg and loin; the next is the - shoulder, or fore-leg. The spare-rib, (pronounced sparrib by the English,) - affords so little meat, and the bones are so tedious to pick, that it is - seldom seen on good American tables, nothing being popular with us that - cannot be eaten fast or fastish. - </p> - <p> - Pork must be thoroughly cooked; done well,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span> and completely to the very - bone. Who ever asked for a slice of pork <i>done rare</i>? Who could eat - pork with the blood appearing, when served? So it is with veal. Underdone - veal, or underdone chicken, is not to be thought of without disgust. - </p> - <p> - Pork, for boiling, is always previously salted or corned. Fresh pork, - however, is very good <i>stewed</i> or cooked slowly in a very little - water, and with plenty of vegetables in the same pot. The vegetables - should be potatos, (either sweet or white,) pared and cut into pieces—parsnips - the same, or yams in thick slices. For corned pork cook the vegetables - separately from the meat, or they will taste too salt and fat. They should - be cabbage, or green sprouts, green beans or peas, green corn, young poke, - squash, pumpkin, or cashaw, (winter squash,) boiled, mashed, and squeezed. - </p> - <p> - For salt pork, in winter, have dried beans or dried peas; first boiled, - and then baked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO ROAST PORK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The roasting pieces are the loin, the leg, the saddle, the fillet, the - shoulder and the spare-rib, (which last is found between the shoulder or - fore-leg,) and the griskin or back-bone. All roast pork should be well - seasoned; rubbed with pepper, salt, or powdered sage or marjoram. Score - the skin with a sharp knife, making deep lines at regular distances, about - an inch apart. Cross these lines with others, so as to form squares or - diamonds. Make a stuffing of minced sage or marjoram leaves; bread-crumbs; - if liked, a very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span> - little minced onion previously boiled; and some powdered mace. Introduce - this stuffing profusely wherever it can be inserted, loosening a piece of - the skin, and fastening it down again with a small skewer. In a leg or - shoulder you can put in a great deal at the knuckle. In a fillet or large - end of the leg, stuff the place from whence you have taken the bone. Put - the pork down to roast not very close to the fire, but place it nearer - when the skin begins to brown. You can soon baste it with its own gravy; - and see that it is thoroughly cooked, before removing it from the spit. - After taking up the meat, skim the fat from the gravy, and stir in a - little flour to thicken it. - </p> - <p> - The crackling or skin will be much more crisp and tender if you go all - over it with sweet oil, or lard, before you put it to the fire. - </p> - <p> - Always accompany roast pork with apple sauce, served in a deep dish or a - sauce-tureen. - </p> - <p> - Cold roast pork is very good sliced at tea or breakfast. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEET POTATO PORK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil, peel, and mash a sufficiency of sweet potatos, moistened with butter - and egg. Cover with them the bottom of a deep dish; then put on a layer of - slices of fresh pork, sprinkled with minced sage or marjoram. Next, - another thick layer of mashed sweet potatos; then another layer of pork - cutlets, and so on till the dish is full, finishing with mashed sweet - potatos. Bake it brown on the surface.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHESTNUT PORK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Where the large Spanish chestnuts abound, a similar dish may be made of - layers of chestnuts boiled, peeled, and mashed, and layers of fresh pork - in thin slices. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROASTED SPARE-RIB.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This will do for a second dish at the table of a very small family. Rub it - all over with powdered sage, pepper, and salt, and having put it on the - spit, lay the thickest end to the fire. Dredge it with powdered sage and - baste it with a little butter. When dished, have ready some mashed potatos - made into flat cakes, and browned on the top, and laid all round the pork, - with some in another dish. Send to table apple sauce also. - </p> - <p> - When apples are difficult to procure, substitute dried peaches, stewed - very soft, and in no more water than remains about them after being - washed. Sweeten them while hot, as soon as you take them from the fire, - mashing them smoothly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO DRESS A YOUNG PIG.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The pig should not be more than three weeks old. If not fat, it is unfit - to eat. To be in perfection, a sucking pig should be eaten the day it is - killed, or its goodness and tenderness is impaired every hour. It requires - great care in roasting, and constant watching. The custom of <i>roasting</i> - a very young pig has now gone much, into disuse, it being found that<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span> baking - answers the purpose equally well or better, and is far less troublesome. - </p> - <p> - The pig should be washed perfectly clean, inside and out, and wiped very - dry. Have ready a stuffing made of slices of bread, thickly buttered and - soaked in milk, seasoned with powdered nutmeg and mace, and the grated - yellow rind of a lemon, with the <i>hard-boiled</i> yolk of an egg, - crumbled, and a large handful, or more, of fine bloom raisins, seeded and - cut in half, mix all these ingredients well, and fill with them the body - of the pig, sewing it up afterwards. Or you may make a plain stuffing of - chopped sage and onions, boiled together, with marjoram; and mixed with - bread-crumbs and butter. Having trussed the pig, with the fore-legs bent - back, and the hind-legs forward, rub it <i>all over</i> with sweet oil, or - with fresh butter tied in a rag. Lay it in a baking-pan, with a little - water in the bottom. Then set it in an oven, not too hot, and bake it - well, basting it frequently with butter. When done, dish it whole. Skim - the gravy in the pan, and mix in some flour. Give it one boil up, having - first put into it the chopped liver and heart of the pig, taken out after - it was cooked, and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. - </p> - <p> - The practice is now obsolete of dissecting a pig before it goes to table, - splitting it down the back, and down the front, and laying the two halves - in reverse positions, or back to back, with one half the split head at - each side, and one ear at each end, the brains being taken out to enrich - the gravy. All these disgusting things have been discarded by the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span> better - taste of modern epicures. And the pig is baked and comes to table whole. - We have always thought it a most unfeminine fancy for a lady to enjoy - eating the head of any thing, and the brain particularly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK STEAKS, STEWED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some nice fresh pork steaks, cut either from the leg or the loin. - Trim off the superfluous fat. Season them with a little salt and pepper, - and plenty of minced sage. Put in with them, minced onions, sliced sweet - potatos, parsnips, and white potatos cut into pieces, also some lima - beans. Pour in barely sufficient water to cover them; or else stew the - pork in a very little lard. Apples cored, pared, and baked whole; the - core-place filled with sugar, moistened with a very little water, to put - in the bottom of the baking-dish, are a very nice accompaniment to pork - steaks. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK AND APPLES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take nice steaks, or cutlets, of fresh pork. Season them with a little - pepper, and a very little salt. Pare, core, and quarter some fine juicy - apples. Flavor them with the grated yellow rind and the juice of one or - two lemons, and strew among them plenty of sugar. Stew them with merely - sufficient water to prevent their burning; or else a little lard without - water. When thoroughly done, serve all up in the same dish. If you cannot - procure lemons, flavor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_223" - id="Page_223">[223]</a></span> the apple with rose-water, or nutmeg, <i>after</i> - it is cooked. Rose-water evaporates much in cooking. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK STEAKS, FRIED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut them thin, but do not trim off the fat. Sprinkle them well all over - with finely minced sage or sweet marjoram. Lay them in a frying-pan, and - fry them well on both sides, keeping them very hot after they are done. - Wash out the frying-pan, (or have another one ready, which is better,) and - put it over the fire with plenty of lard, or fresh butter. Have ready - plenty of slices of large juicy apples, pared, cored, and cut into round - pieces. Fry them well, and when done, take them up on a perforated - skimmer, to drain the lard from them. Sprinkle them with powdered sugar, - and pile them on a dish to eat with the pork. - </p> - <p> - Otherwise, send to table with the pork, a dish of apple sauce made in the - usual manner, or a dish of dried peaches, stewed, mashed, and sweetened. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK APPLE POT-PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a plentiful quantity of nice paste. With some of it line the sides - (but not the bottom) of a large pot. At the very bottom lay a slice of <i>fresh</i> - pork, with most of the fat trimmed off. Season it with a very little salt - and pepper, and add some pieces of paste. Next put in a thick layer of - juicy apples, cut in slices, strewed with brown sugar. Add another layer - of pork, and another of sliced apples. Proceed thus<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span> till the pot is nearly - full, finishing with a lid of paste, not fitting quite closely. Cut a - cross-slit in the top, through which pour in some sweet cider to moisten - it, and set it to cooking. Keep the pot covered; set it at once over a - good fire, but not so hot as to burn the pie. See that it is well done - before you take it up. It is a convenient dish in the country at the - season of apple picking, cider making, and pork killing. - </p> - <p> - Stewed or baked apples are always greatly improved by a flavoring of - lemon, rose-water, or nutmeg. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - APPLE PORK PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Core, peel, and quarter some fine juicy baking-apples. Make a nice paste - with fresh butter and sifted flour, and line with it the bottom and sides - of a deep dish. Put in the apples, and strew among them sufficient brown - sugar to make them very sweet. If you can obtain a fresh lemon, pare off - very thin the yellow rind, and squeeze the juice to flavor the apples. - Prepare some fresh pork steaks, cut thin, and divested of all the fat - except a little at the edge; removing the bone. Cover the apples with a - layer of meat, and pour in a tea-cup of <i>sweet</i> cider. The contents - of the pie should be heaped up in the centre. Have ready a nice lid of - paste, and cover the pie with it, closing and crimping the edge. In the - centre of the lid cut a cross-slit. Put it into a hot oven and bake it - well. This is a farm-house dish, and very good. Try it.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Apples have always been considered a suitable accompaniment to fresh pork. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FILLET OF PORK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut a fillet or round, handsomely and evenly, from a fine leg of fresh - pork. Remove the bone. Make a stuffing or forcemeat of grated - bread-crumbs; butter; a tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram, or tarragon - leaves; and sage leaves enough to make a small table-spoonful, when minced - or rubbed fine; all well mixed, and slightly seasoned with pepper and - salt. Then stuff it closely into the hole from whence the bone was taken. - Score the skin of the pork in circles to go all round the fillet. These - circles should be very close together, or about half an inch apart. Rub - into them, slightly, a little powdered sage. Put it on the spit, and roast - it well, till it is thoroughly done throughout; as pork, if the least - underdone, is not fit to eat. Place it, for the first hour, not very close - to the fire, that the meat may get well heated all through, before the - skin begins to harden so as to prevent the heat from penetrating - sufficiently. Then set it as near the fire as it can be placed without - danger of scorching. Keep it roasting steadily with a bright, good, - regular fire, for two or three hours, or longer still if it is a large - fillet. It may require near four hours. Baste it at the beginning with - sweet oil (which will make the skin very crisp) or with lard. Afterwards, - baste it with its own gravy. When done, skim the fat from the gravy, and - then dredge<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span> - in a little flour to thicken it. Send the pork to table with the gravy in - a boat; and a deep dish of apple sauce, made very thick, flavored with - lemon, and sweetened well. - </p> - <p> - A fillet of pork is excellent stewed slowly in a very little water, having - in the same stew-pot some sweet potatos, peeled, split, and cut into long - pieces. If stewed, put <i>no sage</i> in the stuffing; and remove the skin - of the pork. This is an excellent family dish in the autumn. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ITALIAN PORK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a nice leg of fresh pork; rub it well with fine salt and let it lie - in the salt for a week or ten days. When you wish to cook it, put the pork - into a large pot, with just sufficient water to cover it; and let it - simmer, slowly, during four hours; skimming it well. Then take it out, and - lay it on a large dish. Pour the water from the pot into an earthen pan; - skim it, and let it cool while you are skinning the pork. Then put into a - pot, a pint of good cider vinegar, mixed with half a pound of brown sugar, - and a pint of the water in which the pork has been boiled, and from which - all the fat has been carefully skimmed off. Put in the pork with the upper - side towards the bottom of the pot. Set it again over the fire, (which - must first be increased,) and heat the inside of the pot-lid by standing - it upright against the front of the fire. Then cover the pot closely, and - let the pork stew for an hour and a half longer; basting it frequently - with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span> - liquid around it, and keeping the pot-lid as hot as possible that the meat - may be well browned. When done, the pork will have somewhat the appearance - of being coated with molasses. Serve up the gravy with it. What is left of - the meat may be sliced cold for breakfast or luncheon. - </p> - <p> - You may stew with it, when the pork is put into the pot a second time, - some large chestnuts, previously boiled and peeled. Or, instead of - chestnuts, sweet potatos, scraped, split, and cut into small pieces. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK OLIVES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut slices from a fillet or leg of cold fresh pork. Make a forcemeat in - the usual manner, only substituting for sweet herbs some sage-leaves, - chopped fine. When the slices are covered with the forcemeat, and rolled - up and tied round, stew them slowly either in cold gravy left of the pork, - or in fresh lard. Drain them well before they go to table. Serve them up - on a bed of mashed turnips, or potatos, or of mashed sweet potatos, if in - season. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PIGS' FEET, FRIED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pigs' feet are frequently used for jelly, instead of calves' feet. They - are very good for this purpose, but a larger number is required (from - eight to ten or twelve) to make the jelly sufficiently firm. After they - have been boiled for jelly, extract the bones, and put the meat into a - deep dish: cover it with some good cider vinegar, seasoned with sugar and - a little salt and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span> - cayenne. Then cover the dish, and set it away for the night. Next morning, - take out the meat, and having drained it well from the vinegar, put it - into a frying-pan, in which some lard has just come to a boil, and fry it - for a breakfast dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK AND BEANS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a good piece of pickled pork, (not very fat,) and to each pound of - pork allow a quart of dried white beans. The bone should be removed from - the pork, and the beans well picked and washed. The evening before they - are wanted for cooking, put the beans and pork to soak in <i>separate pans</i>; - and just before bed-time, drain off the water, and replace it with fresh. - Let them soak all night. Early in the morning, drain them well from the - water, and wash first the beans, and then the pork in a cullender. Having - scored the skin in stripes, or diamonds, put the pork into a pot with - fresh cold water, and the beans into another pot with sufficient cold - water to cook them well. Season the pork with a little pepper, but, of - course, no salt. Boil them separately and slowly till the pork is - thoroughly done (skimming it well) and till the beans have all burst open. - Afterwards take them out, and drain them well from the water. Then lay the - pork in the middle of a tin pan, (there must be no liquid fat about it) - and the beans round it, and over it, so as nearly to bury it from sight. - Pour in a very little water, and set the dish into a hot oven, to bake or - brown for half an hour. If kept too long in the oven the beans will<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span> become - dry and hard. If sufficiently boiled when separate, half an hour will be - long enough for the pork and beans to bake together. Carefully skim off - any liquid fat that may rise to the surface. Cover the dish, and send it - to table hot. - </p> - <p> - For a small dish, two quarts of beans and two pounds of pork will be - enough. To this quantity, when put to bake in the oven, you may allow a - pint of water. - </p> - <p> - This is a good plain dish, very popular in New England, and generally - liked in other parts of the country, if properly done. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK WITH CORN AND BEANS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil a nice small leg of corned pork, skim it well, and boil it - thoroughly. Then have ready a quart, or more, of fresh string-beans, each - bean cut into only three pieces. Boil the beans for an hour in a separate - pot. In another pot boil four ears of young sweet corn, and when soft and - tender, cut it down from the cob, with a sharp knife, and mix it with the - boiled beans, having drained them, through a cullender, from all the water - that is about them. Having mixed them well together, in a deep dish, - season them with pepper, (no salt,) and add a large lump of fresh butter. - </p> - <p> - For green beans you may substitute dried white ones, boiled by themselves, - well drained, and seasoned with pepper and butter, and mixed in the same - dish before they are sent to table. Or the mixed corn and beans may be - heaped round the pork upon the same dish.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - To eat with them make some indian dumplings of corn meal and water, mixed - into a stiff dough, formed into thick dumplings, about as large round as - the top of a tea-cup, and boiled in a pot by themselves. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PORK WITH PEAS PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil a nice piece of pickled or corned pork, (the leg is the best,) and - let it be well skinned, and thoroughly cooked. To make the pudding, pick - over and wash through cold water, a quart of yellow split peas, and tie - them in a square cloth, leaving barely sufficient room for them to swell; - but if too much space is allowed for swelling, they will be weak and - washy. When the peas are all dissolved into a mass, turn them out of the - cloth, and rub them through a coarse sieve into a pan. Then add a quarter - of a pound of fresh butter, mixed well into the peas, and a very little - pepper. Beat light, three yolks and one whole egg, and stir them into the - peas a little at a time. Then beat the whole very hard. Dip your - pudding-cloth into hot water; spread it out in a pan, and pour the mixture - into it. Tie up the cloth, and put the pudding into a pot of boiling - water. Let it boil steadily for at least an hour. When done, send it to - table, and eat it with the pork. - </p> - <p> - Next day, if there is much left, boil both the pork and the pudding over - again, (the remains of the pudding tied in the cloth.) Let them boil till - thoroughly warmed throughout. Cut them in slices. Place them on the same - dish, the pork in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span> - middle, with slices of pudding laid round, and send them to the breakfast - table, for strong healthy eaters. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SAUSAGE-MEAT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To fifteen pounds of the lean of fresh pork, allow five pounds of the fat. - Having removed the skin, sinews, and gristle, chop both the fat and lean - as fine as possible, and mix them well together. Rub to a powder - sufficient sage-leaves to make four ounces when done. Mix the sage with - two ounces of fine salt, two ounces of brown sugar, an ounce of powdered - black pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne. Add this seasoning to - the chopped pork, and mix it thoroughly. Pack the sausage-meat down, hard - and closely, into stone jars, which must be kept in a cool place, and well - covered. When wanted for use, make some of it into small flat cakes, - dredge them with flour, and fry them well. The fat that exudes from the - sausage-cakes, while frying, will be sufficient to cook them in. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SAUSAGE DUMPLING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a good paste in the proportion of three mashed potatos, and a quarter - of a pound of finely minced suet to a quart of flour. Roll it out into a - thick sheet. Fill it with the best home-made sausage meat. Lay the sausage - meat in an even heap on the sheet of dough, and close it up so as to form - a large round dumpling. Dip a square cloth in boiling water, shake it out, - dredge it with flour, and tie the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" - id="Page_232">[232]</a></span> dumpling in it, leaving room for it to - swell. Put it into a pot of boiling water, and keep it boiling hard till - thoroughly done. Do not turn it till immediately before it goes to table. - It requires no sauce but a little cold butter. It may be made into several - small dumplings. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VEAL AND SAUSAGE PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Line a deep oval dish with a very nice paste. Lay at the bottom a thin - veal cutlet, seasoned with powdered mace. Place upon it some of the best - sausage meat, spread thin; then another veal cutlet, and then more - sausage. Repeat this till the dish is full, finishing with sausage meat on - the top. Then cover the pie with a rather thick lid or upper crust, - uniting the two edges at the rim, by crimping or notching them neatly. - Make a cross slit in the centre of the lid. Bake the pie well, and serve - it up hot. - </p> - <p> - Put no water into this pie, as the veal and the sausage will give out - sufficient gravy. We recommend this pie. - </p> - <p> - If you live where veal cannot always be procured, substitute chicken or - turkey, boiled and cut up, and covered with layers of sausage; or else - thin slices of venison; or else, the best part of a pair of boiled or - roasted rabbits. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take three pounds of the lean of a round of corned or salted beef,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span> and - three pounds of the lean of corned or salted pork. Boil them for an hour - in separate pots. Take them up, let them grow cold, and chop them - separately. Chop also, very fine, two pounds of the fat of bacon, and one - pound of beef suet. When these things are all separately minced, mix them - well together, seasoning them well with chopped sage, sweet marjoram, - black pepper, and powdered mace. Also, if liked, two or three boiled - onions minced very small. Have ready some of the large skins commonly used - for these sausages. The skins must have been carefully emptied, washed, - and scraped till quite transparent. Fill them with the above mixture, - stuffing it in hard and evenly with a sausage-stuffer, sewing and tying - both ends securely. Put the sausages into a brine or pickle, such as is - made for ham, of salt, brown sugar, and molasses mixed with water, and - strong enough to bear up an egg. Let the sausages remain a week in this - pickle, turning them every day, and keeping it closely covered. Then take - them out and hang them up to dry, tied in strings or links. Smoke them for - a week over a fire of oak sticks or corn-cobs. Afterwards, rub them over - with salad oil, which is much the better for being mixed with ashes of - vine twigs. - </p> - <p> - Sausages made faithfully as above, will be found equal to the real - Bologna, by the lovers of this sort of relish. When it is eaten they are - sliced very thin. Few ladies eat them.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HOG'S HEAD CHEESE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Hog's head cheese is always made at what is called "killing time." To make - four cheeses of moderate size, take two large hog's heads; two sets, (that - is eight feet,) and the noses of all the pigs that have been killed that - day. Clean all these things well, and then boil them to rags. Having - drained off the liquid through a cullender, spread out the things in large - dishes, and carefully remove all the bones, even to the smallest bits. - With a chopper mince the meat as fine as possible, and season it well with - pepper, salt, sage, and sweet marjoram, adding some powdered mace. Having - divided the prepared meats into four equal parts, tie up each portion - tightly in a clean coarse cloth, and press it into a compact cake, by - putting on heavy weights. It will be fit for use next day. In a cool dry - place it will keep all winter. It requires no farther cooking, and is - eaten sliced at breakfast, luncheon, or supper. If well made, and well - seasoned with the herbs and spices, it will be found very nice for a - relish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LIVER PUDDINGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil some pigs' livers, and when cold mince them, adding some cold ham or - bacon, in the proportion of a pound of liver to a quarter of a pound of - fat bacon. Add also some boiled pigs' feet, allowing to each pound of - liver four pigs' feet boiled, skinned, boned, and chopped. Season with - pepper, powdered mace or nutmeg, and sweet herbs, (sweet basil and marjo<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span>ram.) Put - the mixture (packed hard,) into straight-sided tin or white ware pans, and - cover them with a clean cloth. Put heavy weights on the top. Cover them - also with folded brown paper, and set them in a cool dry place. They will - be fit to eat next day. Slice them thick, and send them to the tea or - breakfast table. Or you may fill with the mixture, some nicely cleaned and - very transparent sausage skins, (of a large size,) and tie up the ends - with coarse brown thread, to be removed before going to table. - </p> - <p> - You may cut them into large pieces, and broil them, or fry them in lard. - </p> - <p> - Calves' liver makes still nicer puddings. - </p> - <p> - Keep liver puddings in flat stone jars. - </p> - <p> - Never use newspaper to cover or wrap up any thing eatable. The black - always rubs off, and the copperas in the printing ink is very poisonous. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="HAM_etc" id="HAM_etc"></a>HAM, etc. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - BRINE FOR PICKLING MEAT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To every four gallons of water allow four pounds of fine salt, two ounces - of saltpetre, three pounds of brown sugar, and two quarts of West India - molasses. Boil the whole together, stirring it well, and skimming it after - stirring. When clear, let it cool. The meat being clean and dry, rub it - all over with ground red pepper. Then put as much meat<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span> into the pickling-tub as - can be very well covered by the brine, which must be poured on cold. Let - it remain six weeks in the pickle, (carefully taking off the scum,) and - turning each piece every day. Afterwards, hang it till it is dry outside, - and then smoke it well for a fortnight, hanging it high above the fire - with the large end downward. The fire in the smoke-house should be - steadily kept up all the time. Hickory or oak is the best wood for this - purpose. On no account use pine, cedar, spruce, or hemlock. They will - communicate to the meat a strong taste of turpentine, and render it - uneatable. A fire made of corn-cobs is excellent for smoking meat, and - they should be saved for that purpose. When the meat is smoked, rub it all - over with ground pepper to prevent insects, and sew up all the pieces in - new cotton cloths, coarse and thick, and then white-wash them. We have - seen ham-covers, painted with flowers and gilded. Since California, - gilding pervades the land. - </p> - <p> - This pickle will be found excellent for hams, bacon, tongues, or beef. - Meat for pickling must be very fresh, and of excellent quality. Before - sewing it up in covers see that it is free from insects. If to go to sea, - pack in boxes of powdered charcoal for a long voyage. For a short one, - barrels of wood-ashes will do. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO CURE HAMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To make good hams the pork must be of the best quality. No animal tastes<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span> so much - of its food as the pig. In America, we consider a pig "killed off the - slop" as unfit to eat; and so he is. All our pigs are kept up in a pen, - and fattened with Indian corn, or corn meal, for several weeks previous to - killing. A hundred pounds of corn meal, (mixed with water to about the - consistency of very thick mush,) is said to be equal in fattening pigs to - two hundred pounds of dry-shelled corn. They should be kept up, and well - fed for eight weeks; and occasionally, in the country, where such fruits - are superabundant, the pigs should have a regale of melons, peaches, &c. - This we have seen, and the pork was, of course, very fine. The hams or - hind-quarters are considered the most valuable part of the animal. They - are cured in various modes. But the Newbold receipt has hitherto been the - most popular. Mr. Newbold was a Pennsylvania farmer. The following - directions, we believe, are authentic. - </p> - <p> - For one hundred pounds of fine pork, take seven pounds of coarse salt, - five pounds of brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of - pearlash, and four gallons of water. Boil all together, and skim the - pickle when cold. Pour it on the meat. Let hams or tongues remain in the - pickling-tub eight weeks. Before it is smoked, hang it up and dry it two - or three days. Three weeks will be sufficient for pickling beef. Previous - to sewing the hams in cases, rub them all over with ground black pepper. - </p> - <p> - Soap-suds given frequently to pigs, when kept up to fatten, will greatly - promote their health.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having soaked a fine ham from early in the evening till near bed-time, - putting it into warm water, and changing that water about ten or eleven - o'clock—wash and brush it well in the morning, and trim it so as to - look nicely all over. Lay at the bottom of the ham-boiler a bed of nice - fresh hay, which will greatly improve the flavor. Let the hock bone be - sawed off short. A long shank bone looks very awkward. Place the ham upon - the hay—pour in plenty of cold water, and keep it simmering very - slowly an hour before you allow it to boil. Then increase the heat - gradually, and keep the ham boiling steadily for four, five, or six hours, - according to its size and age. An old ham requires more soaking and - boiling than a new one. Skim it frequently after the boiling begins. It - will be much improved by transferring it to a spit, (having taken off the - whole skin,) and roasting the ham, for the last two or three hours, - basting it with its own essence. Save the skin to cover the cold ham, and - keep it fresh. Before it goes to table cover the ham with grated - bread-crumbs, sifted on so as to form a slight crust. - </p> - <p> - If the ham is to be eaten cold, and is intended for company, brush it all - over with beaten yolk of egg. Then dredge on sufficient grated crumbs to - form a crust half an inch thick, and finish by going all over it with - cream. Set it to brown in an oven, or put it on the spit of a roaster. - When cold, this glazing will be found surpassingly fine. Decorate the hock - with white paper, handsomely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_239" - id="Page_239">[239]</a></span> cut, or with a bunch of flowers cut out of - vegetables. - </p> - <p> - Carve a ham in very thin slices—if cut thick, they have not the same - taste, besides looking ungenteelly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For baking, take a small ham, or part of a large one, trimmed and made of - good shape, cutting away whatever looks unsightly. Have the bone sawed off - at the knuckle, or end of the hock. The evening previous to cooking, lay - the ham in soak in a large pan of hot water. At bed-time pour off the - water, and renew it. Keep it closely covered all night. In the morning - wash and brush it well. Make a coarse paste of coarse flour mixed with - water only, and roll it out about an inch thick. Line a clean iron - bake-oven with this, and put in the ham, reserving enough of paste to - cover the top. Pour in a very little water, merely sufficient to keep the - ham from burning. Put on the lid of paste, and having wet the edges - slightly press them together, so as to unite closely the top and bottom - crust. Bake it over a steady fire, from four to five or six hours, or - more, according to its size. When done, skim the gravy, remove the paste, - (which is of no farther use,) and take off the skin of the ham. Dredge it - all over with finely grated bread-crumbs, before it goes to table. A ham - can scarcely be cooked too much, and too slow. The general fault is in - cooking them too little, and too fast. A ham of the smallest size will - require at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span> - least four hours baking or boiling, even after it has been all night in - soak. Save the skin whole, to cover the cold ham when it is put away in - the pantry. - </p> - <p> - When a cooked ham is nearly all used up, take what remains, cut it all off - from the bone, and stew the bits in a little water, till they are all to - rags. You will find the essence an improvement to gravies, strained from - the fragments. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MADEIRA HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a dish only seen at dinner parties. No one can believe, for a - moment, that hams really cooked in Madeira wine are served up every week - at hotels, particularly at those houses where there is no other - superfluity, and where most of the great dishes exist only in the bill of - fare. A genuine Madeira ham is cooked as follows:—Take a ham of the - very finest sort; should be a Westphalia one. Lay it in hot water, and - soak it all day and all night, changing the water several times, and every - time washing out the pan. Early in the morning of the second day, put the - ham into a large pot of cold water, and boil it slowly during four hours, - skimming it well. Then take it out, remove the skin entirely, and put the - ham into a clean boiler, with sufficient Madeira wine to cover it well. - Boil, or rather stew it, an hour longer, keeping the pot covered except - when you remove the lid to turn the ham. When well stewed take it up, - drain it, and strain the liquor into a porcelain-lined saucepan. Have<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span> ready a - sufficiency of powdered white sugar. Cover the ham all over with a thick - coating of the sugar, and set it into a hot oven to bake for an hour. - </p> - <p> - Mix some orange or lemon-juice with the liquor adding plenty of sugar and - nutmeg. Give it one boil up over the fire, and serve it up in a tureen, as - sauce to the ham. - </p> - <p> - What is left of the ham may be cut next day into small pieces, put into a - stew-pan, with the remains of the liquor or sauce poured over it, and - stewed for a quarter of an hour or more. Serve it up all together in the - same dish. While it is on the fire, add a little butter to the stew. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Ham for broiling or frying should be cut into thin slices the evening - before, trimmed, and laid in a pan of boiling water, which, near bed-time, - should be changed for cold water, and very early in the morning for - boiling water, in which it should lie half an hour to soak still longer. - If ham is not well soaked previously, it will, when broiled or fried, be - disagreeably hard and salt; the salt frying out to the surface and forming - a rough unpleasant crust, which will create thirst in the eaters for hours - after. Much of the salt of a ham goes off in boiling, but if it is <i>not</i> - boiled or soaked, the salt comes out to the surface and there it sticks. - The slices being cut thin and nicely trimmed, they should be broiled on a - very clean gridiron over a clear fire, and so<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span> well done that they incline - to curl up at the edges. Dish them hot, and lay on every slice a very - small bit of fresh butter, and sprinkle them with pepper. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Ham for frying need not be <i>quite</i> so thin as for broiling. Put but - little butter in the frying-pan, as their own fat is generally sufficient - to cook them. Break an egg over the middle of each slice, and let it cook - till the white is set, and the yolk appears round and yellow through it. - Before it goes to table trim off nicely the discolored and ragged edges of - the fried eggs. They look disgusting when left on. - </p> - <p> - Cold ham is excellent for broiling or frying, and very nice without any - further cooking. Send it to table strewed with either nasturtion flowers, - pepper-grass, or parsley. All these things have a fine flavor of their - own, especially nasturtions. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - NICE FRIED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having scalded and soaked some nice ham, cut it into rather thick slices, - and then cut these slices into mouthfuls or little narrow slips. Put them - into a hot frying-pan, and fry them well. When done, season them with - pepper and nutmeg, and serve them up in their own gravy. It will be an - improvement to add a beaten egg just before they go to table. - </p> - <p> - You may add to the ham some bits of cold boiled chicken, pulled in little - slips, from the breast, and fried with the ham, adding a little fresh - butter.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SLICED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Slice very thin some cold boiled ham, and let the slices be nearly of the - same size and appearance, making them look as handsome as you can. Cover - them with fresh green pepper-grass at a summer breakfast or tea-table; and - decorate the pepper-grass by interspersing with it some nasturtion - flowers, which are very nice to eat, having a taste agreeably and slightly - pungent. Pepper-grass and nasturtions, are very appetizing accompaniments - to nice bread and butter. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DISGUISED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Scrape or grate a pound of cold boiled ham, twice as much lean as fat. - Season it slightly with pepper and a little powdered mace or nutmeg. Beat - the yolks only, of three eggs, and mix with them the ham. Spread the - mixture thickly over slices of very nice toast, with the crust pared off, - and the toast buttered while hot. Brush it slightly on the surface with - white of egg, and then brown it with a red hot shovel or salamander. This - is a nice breakfast dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HAM CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This should be made the day before it is wanted. Take the remains of a - cold ham. Cut it into small bits, and pound it well (fat and lean - together) in a marble mortar, adding some butter and grated nutmeg; or a - little cream, sufficient to moisten it throughout. Fill a mould with the - mixture, and set it for half an hour into a moderate oven. When ready for - use, set the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span> - mould for a few minutes into hot water, and then turn out the ham cake on - a dish. Cover the surface all over with a coating of beaten white of egg. - And before it is quite dry, decorate it with capers, or pickled nasturtion - seeds, arranged in a pattern. - </p> - <p> - Send small bread rolls to the supper table with the ham cake. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HAM OMELET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mince very fine some cold boiled ham, (twice as much lean as fat,) till - you have a half pint. Break six eggs, and strain them into a shallow pan. - Beat them till very light and thick, and then stir in gradually the minced - ham. Have ready, in a hot omelet pan, three table-spoonfuls of lard. When - the lard boils, put in the omelet mixture and fry it. Occasionally slip a - knife under the edge to keep it loose from the pan. It should be near an - inch thick, as a ham omelet is best not to fold over. Make it a good even - shape; and when one side is done, turn the other and brown it. You can - turn it easily with a knife and fork, holding carefully, close to the - omelet, the hot dish on which it is to go to table. Dredge the surface - with a little cayenne. - </p> - <p> - Omelets may be made in this manner, of smoked tongue, or oysters chopped, - cold sweetbread, asparagus minced, boiled onions, mushrooms, &c. A - good allowance for a small omelet is the above proportion of eggs and - lard, or fresh butter; and a large tea-cup of the seasoning article, which - must always have been previously cooked. - </p> - <p> - They are much lighter when served up of their<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span> full size, and not folded - over in halfs. A large omelet must have from eight to ten, or a dozen - eggs. It is best to bake all omelets of the six egg size, and have more in - number if required. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HAM TOAST.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make some very nice slices of toast, with all the crust trimmed off; and - dip each toast for an instant into a bowl of hot water, then butter it - slightly. Have ready some grated cold ham, and spread it thick over each - slice of toast. Tongue toast is made in the same manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SANDWICHES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Spread some thin slices of bread very thinly with nice fresh butter, and - lay a thin slice of cold ham (the edges neatly trimmed) between every two - slices of bread and butter. You may make them so thin, as to roll up—a - number being piled on a plate. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BISCUIT SANDWICHES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a very nice and very pretty dish for a supper table. Have ready - one or two dozen of fresh soft milk biscuit. Split them, and take a very - little of the soft crumb out of each biscuit, so as to make a slight - hollow. Butter the biscuits with very nice fresh butter, and fill them - liberally with grated ham or tongue. Stick round the inside of the edges, - full sprigs of pepper-grass, or curled parsley, or the green tops of - celery. Arrange the sprigs closely and<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span> handsomely, so as to - project out all round the sides, forming a green border or fringe. We - highly recommend biscuit sandwiches. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POTTED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some cold ham, slice it, and mince it small, fat and lean together. - Then pound it in a mortar; seasoning it as you proceed with cayenne - pepper, powdered mace, and powdered nutmeg. Then fill with it a large deep - pan, and set it in an oven for half an hour. Afterwards pack it down hard - in a stone jar, and fill up the jar with lard. Cover it closely, and paste - down a thick paper over the jar. If sufficiently seasoned, it will keep - well in winter; and is convenient for sandwiches, or on the tea-table. A - jar of this will be found useful to travelers in remote places. - </p> - <p> - Tongue may be potted as above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO PREPARE BACON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - All pieces of pork that, after pickling, are dried and smoked, come under - the denomination of bacon; except the hind-quarters or legs, and they are - always called ham, and are justly considered superior to any other part of - the animal, and bring a higher price. The shoulders or fore-quarters, the - sides or flitches, the jowl or head, and all the other parts, are - designated as bacon; and in some places they erroneously give that name to - the whole animal, if cured, or preserved by the process of smoking. - </p> - <p> - To prepare bacon for being cooked, examine it<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span> well, and scrape it - carefully, and trim off all unsightly parts. If the fat is yellow, the - meat is rusty or tainted, and not fit to eat. So, also, if on the lean - there are brownish or blackish spots. All sorts of food, if kept too long, - should be thrown away at once. - </p> - <p> - If perfectly good, prepare the bacon for cooking, by washing it well, and - then soaking it for several hours in a pan full of cold water, removing - the water once or twice during the process. If the bacon is salt and hard, - soak it all night, changing the water at bed-time, and early in the - morning. - </p> - <p> - Ham should also be soaked before cooking. - </p> - <p> - A dish of broiled ham is a nice accompaniment to one of calves' - chitterlings, at breakfast. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO BOIL BACON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put two or three pounds of nice bacon into a pot with plenty of cold - water, and let it simmer slowly for an hour before it begins to boil. Skim - it well, and when no more scum rises, put in the vegetables which are - usually eaten with bacon, and which taste better for boiling with the - meat. These are young greens, or sprouts, very young roots and leaves of - the poke plant, and green beans—strung and cut in half—not - smaller. On no account should any other vegetables be boiled with bacon. - When the bacon is so tender as to be easily pierced through with a fork, - even in the thickest places, take it up and drain it well in a cullender - or sieve. Remove the skin. Then take up the vegetables and drain them<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span> also, - pressing out <i>all</i> the liquid. Season them with pepper only. Send the - meat to table with the vegetables heaped round it, on the same large dish, - (the cabbage being chopped, but not minced fine.) Potatos, squashes, peas, - asparagus, &c., should never be boiled in the same pot, or served up - in the same dish with bacon, which is too plain a dish for any but a - country table; while a ham is a delicacy for the city, or for any place. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BACON AND BEANS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Scrape and trim a nice piece of bacon, (not too fat,) and see that no part - of it looks yellow or rusty, or shows any appearance of being too old. If - so, do not cook it, as it is unwholesome, unpalatable, and unfit to eat. A - shoulder is a good piece to boil. The best of the animal, when smoked, is, - of course, the ham or leg. We are now speaking of the other pieces that, - when cured, are properly called bacon, and are eaten at plain tables only. - </p> - <p> - The meat, if very salt, is the better for being put in soak early in the - morning, or the night before. Afterwards put it into a pot, and boil and - skim it till tender. Have ready a quart or two of fresh green string - beans, cut into three pieces, (not more); put them into the pot in which - the bacon is boiling, and let them cook with the meat for an hour or more. - When done, take them out, drain them well; season them well with pepper, - and send them to table on a separate dish from the bacon. - </p> - <p> - Many persons like so well this bacon flavor, that<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span> they <i>always</i>, when - boiling string-beans, put a small piece of bacon in the pot, removing it - before the beans are sent to table. - </p> - <p> - With bacon and beans, serve up whole potatos boiled and peeled—and - in the country, where cream is plenty, they boil some with butter, and - pour it over the potatos, touching each one with pepper. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED HAM OR BACON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash and trim a nice piece of bacon; soak it all night, or for several - hours, in cold water. In the morning scald it with boiling water. Let it - lie till cool, then throw away the water, and scald it again. Cut it into - thin slices, very smooth and even; the rind being previously pared off. - Curl up the slices, rolling them round, and securing them with wooden - skewers. Broil them on a gridiron, or bake them in a Dutch oven. If cut - properly thin, they will cook in a quarter of an hour. They must not be - allowed to burn or blacken. Before you send them to table, take out the - skewers. They may be cooked in flat slices, without curling, but they must - be cut always very thin. Slice some hard-boiled eggs, and lay them on the - meat. Season with black pepper. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cold</i> boiled ham cooked as above, will require no soaking, and can - be speedily prepared for a breakfast dish. Lay sprigs of parsley on the - ham. - </p> - <p> - Serve up with them mashed potatos made into balls, or thick flat cakes, - and browned on the surface with a red-hot shovel.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut some thin slices of cold boiled ham. Season them slightly with pepper. - No salt. Lay them in a stew pan with plenty of green peas or lima beans, - or else cauliflowers, or young summer cabbage, quartered, and the thick - stalk omitted. Add a piece of fresh butter, or <i>a very little lard</i>. - Put in just water enough to keep the things from burning. When the - vegetables are quite done, add a beaten egg or two, and in five minutes, - take up the stew and send it to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED BACON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a small piece of bacon, not too fat or salt. It had best be soaked in - cold water the night before. Put it into a pot, with a large portion of - string beans, each cut into three pieces, (not more,) or else some - cabbage, or young cabbage sprouts. Early in the spring, the young stalks - of the pokeberry plant will be found excellent with stewed bacon. Stew the - bacon and vegetables in just water enough to cover them all; skimming - frequently. Drain all, through a cullender, when done. Have a dish of - boiled potatos also. A molasses indian pudding is a good conclusion to - this homely dinner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PREPARED LARD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - As soon as it is cut off from the newly killed pork, put the fat into a - crock, or deep earthen pot. Cover the crock with its own lid, and let it - stand all night in a cool place. Next day, cut it into small bits, - (carefully removing all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" - id="Page_251">[251]</a></span> the fleshy particles of lean); and then put - the fat into a <i>very clean</i> pot, without either water or salt. The - pot should not be more than half full of pork-fat. Let it boil <i>slowly</i>, - (stirring it frequently from the bottom, lest it burn,) till it becomes - quite clear and transparent. Then ladle it into clean pans. When almost - cold, put it into stoneware jars, which must be closely covered, and kept - in a cool place. If it is to go to a distance, tie it up in new bladders. - </p> - <p> - There are two sorts of pork-fat for lard. The leaf-fat, which is best; and - the fat that adheres to the entrails. These two fats should be boiled - separately. - </p> - <p> - The large entrails, whose skins are to be used for sausages, must be - cleaned out carefully, well scraped, and thrown into strong salt and water - for two days, (changing the brine the second day,) and afterwards into - strong lye for twenty-four hours. Lastly, wash them in fresh water. We - think it much better to dispense with the skins altogether; keeping your - sausage meat in jars, and frying it in cakes when wanted for use. Its own - fat (as it exudes) will cook it. - </p> - <p> - Never use bad butter when you can obtain good lard, for frying, and other - purposes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="VENISON" id="VENISON"></a>VENISON. - </h2> - <p> - You may judge of the age of venison by looking at the hoof, which is - always left on the leg. The deer is young if the cleft of the hoof is - small and smooth; but large and rough, if he is old. Buck venison is - considered better than the meat of the doe. The haunch, or hind-quarter, - is the best part, and the fat upon it should, be thick and white. The - shoulder, or fore-quarter, is the next best piece. The saddle comprises - both hind-quarters; and these, for a large company, are always cooked - together. - </p> - <p> - To eat venison in perfection, it should be killed when the deer can find - plenty of fresh food in the forest, and when they have fattened on the - abundance of wild berries, which they can obtain during the autumn. In - winter, they are brought into the cities, lean, hard, dry, and black, and - the meat infested all through with small threadlike white worms; showing - that decomposition has commenced, and requiring the disguise of spices, - wine, currant jelly, &c., to render it <i>eatable</i>, not <i>wholesome</i>, - for every sort of food in the slightest degree tainted is utterly - injurious to health, and cannot often be eaten with impunity. - </p> - <p> - It never was very fashionable, in America, to eat spoiled victuals, and it - is now less so than ever. Fortunately, in our land of abundance, "we do - not see the necessity"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" - id="Page_253">[253]</a></span>. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HAUNCH OF VENISON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To prepare a haunch of venison for roasting (we will suppose it to be <i>perfectly</i> - good and well kept,) wipe it thoroughly all over with clean cloths, dipped - in lukewarm water, and then go over it with clean dry cloths. Trim off all - unsightly parts. Lay over the fat a large sheet of thick brown paper, well - buttered, and securely tied on with twine. Or else make a coarse paste of - brown meal, and cover it with that. Place it before a good steady fire, - and let it roast from three to four hours, according to its size. After - roasting well for three hours, remove the covering of paper or paste, and - baste the meat well all over; first with dripping or butter, and then with - its own gravy, dredging it very slightly with browned flour. Skim the fat - off the gravy, and send the venison to table plain, with sweet sauce of - black currant jelly, or raspberry jam, in a glass dish with a spoon in it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VENISON STEAKS, BROILED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut the steaks not quite an inch thick. Trim them nicely, and season them - with a little black pepper and salt. Have ready, over a bed of clear - bright hot coals from a wood fire, a gridiron with grooved bars to catch - the gravy. Put down the steaks, and when one side is quite done turn the - other, and broil that. Venison should always be very thoroughly done. - Before you take up the steaks, lay a bit of nice fresh butter upon each. - Take them up on a hot dish, and keep them warm. Pour off the gravy into<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span> a small - saucepan. Give it a boil over the fire, and skim off all the fat from the - surface. Stir into it some nice wine, and serve up with the steaks a deep - dish of cranberry, or peach sauce, or a large cup of grape jelly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED VENISON STEAKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some fine steaks of <i>freshly killed</i> venison. Cut them from the - upper part of the leg. Make a forcemeat, or stuffing, with bread soaked in - milk, mixed with fresh butter, with chopped sweet marjoram and sweet - basil; or some boiled onions, minced small, and mixed with chopped sage, - which may be boiled <i>with</i> the onion, and seasoned with a very little - salt and pepper. Spread the stuffing thickly over the inside of the - steaks. Then roll them up, and tie them round with packthread, or secure - them at the ends with wooden skewers. Put the steaks into a stewpan with - some fresh butter or lard, or some drippings that have been left of roast - venison—the day before. Let them stew (keeping the pan covered) till - thoroughly done. Then dish them with the gravy round them. Serve up with - them a sauce of stewed cranberries, or stewed dried peaches. - </p> - <p> - You may stew lamb or mutton cutlets in the same manner, but do not use - mutton dripping. Water (a very small quantity) is best for them. Veal - cutlets may be stewed exactly like venison.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HASHED VENISON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the remains of cold roast venison, from which sufficient gravy or - dripping has been saved to cook the meat again, without any water at all. - It would be well if this were done in all hashes made from cold meat. For - want of drippings, use butter or lard. Cold meat stewed in water is weak - and unpalatable. - </p> - <p> - Two or three large spoonfuls of mushroom, or tomato catchup, are - improvements to all hashes. If nothing better can be obtained use onions, - always previously boiled to render them less strong. - </p> - <p> - Minced sweet herbs are excellent seasoning for hashes. Also minced - tarragon leaves; they give a peculiar flavor that is very generally liked. - Fresh tarragon is in season in July, August, and September. - </p> - <p> - French mustard (to be obtained at all the best grocery stores) is a great - improvement to hashes and stews. Stir in at the last, one or two large - table-spoonfuls. The chief ingredient of French mustard is tarragon. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A FINE VENISON PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut steaks from a loin or haunch of venison, which should be as freshly - killed as you can get it. The strange and absurd prejudice in favor of - hard black-looking venison, (that has been kept till the juices are all - dried up,) is fast subsiding; and no one now eats any sort of food in - which decomposition has commenced. Those who have eaten venison fresh from - the forest, when the deer have fattened on<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span> wild grapes, huckleberries, - blackberries, cranberries, &c., will never again be able to relish - such as is brought in wagon loads to the Atlantic cities, and which has - been kept till full of those fine threads that are in reality long thin - whitish worms, and which are often seen in very old hams. - </p> - <p> - Having removed the bones and cut the meat into steaks, and seasoned it - with salt and pepper, put the venison into a pot, with merely as much - water as will cover it well. Let it stew till perfectly tender, skimming - it occasionally. Then take it out, and set it to cool, saving the gravy in - a bowl. Make a nice puff paste; divide the paste into two equal portions, - and roll it out rather thick. Butter a deep dish, and line it with one of - the sheets of paste, rolled thin at the bottom. Then put in the stewed - venison. Season the gravy with a glass of <i>very good</i> wine, (either - port or sherry,) a few blades of mace, and a powdered nutmeg. Stir into it - the crumbled yolks of some hard-boiled eggs. Pour the gravy over the meat, - and put on the other sheet of paste, as the lid of the pie. Bring the two - edges close together, so as to unite evenly, and notch them handsomely. - Set it immediately into the oven, and bake it well. If a steady heat is - kept up, it will be done in an hour. Send it to table hot. - </p> - <p> - Instead of wine, you may put into the gravy half a pint of <i>black</i> - currant jelly, which, for venison, is thought preferable to red. Either - will do. - </p> - <p> - Any sort of game, partridges, pheasants, grouse,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span> wild ducks, &c., may be - made into a fine pie, exactly as above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VERY PLAIN VENISON PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut from the bone some good pieces of fine <i>fresh</i> venison, season - them slightly with salt and pepper, and put them into a pot with plenty of - potatos, (either sweet or white,) split and quartered, and only as much - water as will cover the whole. Set it over the fire, cover it, and let it - stew slowly and steadily, till all is tender, skimming it several times. - Meanwhile, make a nice paste of flour shortened with cold gravy, or - drippings saved from roast venison, or of nice lard. Allow half a pint of - shortening to each quart of flour. Put the flour into a pan, and rub the - shortening into it as quickly as possible, adding a <i>very little</i> - cold water, to make it into a lump of paste. Then roll it out into a - sheet, and spread over it with a broad knife the remaining half of the - shortening. Dredge lightly with flour, fold it up, and roll it out in two - sheets. With one of them line your pie-dish, and put into it the stewed - venison and potatos. Pour in the gravy of the stew. The filling of this - pie should be piled high in the centre. Lay on, as a lid, the other sheet - of paste, which should be rather the largest. Pare off smoothly the edges - of the two crusts, and crimp them nicely. Set the pie in the oven, and - bake it well. It may be eaten either hot or cold, but is best hot. - </p> - <p> - The above quantity of paste is only sufficient<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span> for a very small pie. For - one of moderate size allow two quarts of flour, and a pound of shortening. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VENISON POT-PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Remove the bone from some fine venison steaks, cut near an inch thick. - Season them lightly with pepper and salt, and score them each in several - places. Stew them in a very little water till tender. Have ready an ample - portion of nice suet paste. If you cannot obtain beef suet use cold - venison fat, minced fine and made into a paste with double its quantity in - flour, and as little water as possible. Lay some stewed venison at the - bottom of the pot, and line the sides with paste almost up to the top. Put - in the meat, adding among it boiled sweet potatos cut into pieces, or (if - they are to be had in plenty,) chestnuts, boiled and peeled. Mushrooms - will be a great improvement. Onion also, (if liked,) boiled and cut up. - Intersperse the whole with square pieces of paste. Fill the pot almost to - the top with the meat and other ingredients. Lay a thick paste over the - whole, cut round to fit, but not too closely. Pour in a pint of warm water - to increase the gravy. Make a cross slit in the middle of the upper crust. - Cook the pie till all is well done. Serve it up with the brown crust in - pieces, and laid on the top. - </p> - <p> - This pie, if well made, and with plenty of paste, will be thought - excellent whenever fresh venison is to be had.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VENISON HAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine freshly-killed venison. Mix together an ounce of saltpetre, a - pound of coarse brown sugar, and a pound of salt. Let them be very - thoroughly mixed and pounded. Rub this well into the meat, and continue - rubbing hard till it froths. Keep the meat in the pickle for two weeks, - turning it every day. Then take it out, and roll it in saw-dust, (which, - on no account, must be the saw-dust of any species of pine.) Hang it for - two weeks longer in the smoke of oak wood or of corn cobs. All hams, when - being smoked, must be hung very high, and have the large end downwards. If - hung too low, the heat softens or melts the fat. - </p> - <p> - Venison hams, if well cured, require no boiling. They are always eaten - chipped or shaved like smoked beef, to which they are very superior. It - may be stewed in a skillet with fresh butter and beaten egg, and cut into - thin shavings, or very thin small slices—or, instead of butter, with - the drippings of cold roast venison. Season with pepper only. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RABBITS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Rabbits should be young and tender, but full-grown and fat. Two are - required to make a dish. One rabbit, except for an invalid, is scarcely - worth the trouble of cooking; and, being naturally insipid, it must have - certain seasoning to make it taste well. The hare, so much prized in - England, owes its reputation entirely to their mode of dressing it, which - is troublesome,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span> - expensive, and in our country would never become popular, unless the - animal had in itself more to recommend it. With all that can be done for a - hare, it is, when cooked, black, dry, hard; and if it has been kept long - enough to acquire what they call the "true game flavor," so much the - worse. A fine fat well-fed tame rabbit is much better. In Virginia, the - negroes frequently call a large rabbit "a hare"—or rather "a yar;" - and though they know it to be young, they generally term it "that old - yar." We opine that <i>with them</i> "yars" are not admired. If a rabbit - is really old his ears are tough, and his claws blunt and rough with - coarse hairs growing between them. A young rabbit has short sharp claws, - and ears so tender that on trying you can easily tear them. Rabbits should - be cooked the day they are killed. Always cut off the head. A rabbit - dished whole, with its head on, is, to most persons, a disgusting sight. - The head of no small animal is worth eating, and always looks disagreeable - when cooked. - </p> - <p> - The livers of rabbits should be added to the gravy. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROASTED RABBITS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pair of fine well-fed young rabbits, and having drawn or emptied - them, lay them, for about ten minutes, in a pan of warm water. Then dry - them inside with a clean cloth, carefully wiping them out. Truss them - short, and neatly, having removed the heads. Line the inside with very - thin slices of fat bacon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" - id="Page_261">[261]</a></span> that has had most of the salt soaked out. - Make a plentiful stuffing or forcemeat of bread steeped in milk, some - fresh butter mixed with a very little flour; or, instead of butter, some - beef suet finely minced; some chopped sweet herbs; and some crumbled yolks - of hard-boiled eggs. Season with mace and nutmeg, and grated lemon rind. - Fill the rabbits well with this—or, you may stuff them entirely with - boiled potatos, mashed with plenty of nice butter, or the drippings of - roast veal or pork. Or (if liked) you may make the stuffing entirely of - minced onion, (previously boiled,) and minced sage leaves, moistened with - a very little lard or sweet oil, and seasoned with powdered mace, nutmeg, - and pepper. Having put in plenty of stuffing, sew up the bodies of the - rabbits, flour them well, and put them on the spit and set them before a - clear fire. Baste them with milk, or with fresh butter, tied up in thin - muslin. They will be done in an hour or more. Thicken the gravy with - flour, and pour it over them in the dish. Roasted rabbits make a good - second dish at a small dinner. Take the livers of the rabbits, and chop - them, to put into the gravy. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RABBITS WITH ONIONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Peel, boil, and slice six (or more) large onions, and season them with - nutmeg, and a very little cayenne. Cover them, and set them aside till - wanted. Cut two fine rabbits into pieces, and fry them in fresh butter or - lard. When browned, and nearly done, cover<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span> them with the sliced - onions, and brown <i>them</i>, having laid among them some bits of fresh - butter rolled in flour. Dish the rabbits, with the pieces entirely hidden - under the onions. - </p> - <p> - A plainer, and not so good a way, is to put the pieces of rabbit, and the - sliced onions, into a stew-pan with a little water, and stew the whole - together. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RABBIT POT-PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up the rabbits, and stew them in a little water. When nearly done, put - the pieces into a pot and intersperse them with bits of cold ham. Add the - gravy left from the stew. Season with pepper and mace. Have ready - sufficient paste, (made with minced suet, and rather more than twice its - quantity of flour.) There must be enough of paste to line the sides of the - pot all round, nearly up to the top, and enough to make a thick lid, - besides having plenty of extra pieces to lay among the other contents. - Also have ready a few onions boiled and sliced. Cover the pie with the lid - of paste, not fitting very closely. Make a cross slit in the top, and pour - in a little water. When done, serve all up on one large dish. - </p> - <p> - This pie will be much improved by stewing with the rabbits a fresh beef - steak. A beef steak in any pot-pie thickens and enriches the gravy.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PULLED RABBITS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil, very tender, a fine pair of nice young rabbits. When cold, cut them - in pieces as for carving, and peel off the skin. Then with a fork pull all - the meat from the bones, first loosening it with a knife. Put it into a - stew-pan with plenty of cream, or some bits of fresh butter rolled in - flour; some minced sweet herbs, some grated fresh lemon rind, and some - hard-boiled yolks of eggs crumbled. Season with cayenne and nutmeg. Cover - it, and let it simmer till it comes to a boil. Then immediately take it - off the fire, and transfer it to a deep dish. Serve it up hot. This is a - side dish at dinner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRICASSEED RABBITS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up the rabbits as for carving, and go over every piece with lard or - sweet oil. Lay them in a frying pan, and fry them in nice fresh butter. If - you cannot procure this, use lard. Season them with a very little salt and - cayenne, dredge them well with flour, and sprinkle them thickly with - parsley, or sweet marjoram. When they are fried brown, take them up. Keep - them warm in a heated dish with a cover. Skim the gravy that remains in - the pan, and add to it some cream, or rich milk thickened with flour, - enriched with the beaten yolk of an egg, and flavored with nutmeg. - </p> - <p> - Rabbits may be cut up, and fried in batter made of bread-crumbs and beaten - egg. Dip every piece of rabbit twice into the batter.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A COATED HARE, OR LARGE RABBIT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The hare, or rabbit, should be large and fat. Save the liver and heart to - assist in the gravy, which ought to be made of some pieces of the lean of - good fresh beef, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, stewed in a small - sauce-pan, till all the essence is extracted, adding the chopped liver and - heart, and a bit of fresh butter, rolled in flour. Cold fresh meat, or - meat that has to be recooked, is unfit for gravy, and so it is for soup. - Line the inside of the hare with small thin slices of fat ham, or bacon, - and then fill the cavity with a stuffing made of grated bread-crumbs, the - grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon, or orange, a piece of fresh - butter, some minced sweet marjoram, and the crumbled yolk of one or two - hard-boiled eggs. Season the stuffing with a little pepper and salt, and - some powdered nutmeg and mace. Fill the body of the hare with this - mixture, and sew it up, to keep in the stuffing. Spit the hare, and roast - it well, keeping it for a while at a moderate distance from the fire. To - baste it, while roasting, make a dressing of the beaten yolks of four - eggs, four spoonfuls of flour, a pint of milk, and three table-spoonfuls - of salad oil, all well-beaten together. Baste the hare with this till it - is thickly coated all over with the batter, taking care it does not burn. - Send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat, accompanied by currant, or - cranberry jelly. - </p> - <p> - A very young fawn, or a kid, may be drest in a similar manner. Kids are - not eaten after three months old. Till that age their meat is white and<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span> - delicate. Their flesh, <i>after</i> that time, gradually becomes coarse - and dark-colored. A very young kid, before it is weaned, is very - delicious; but no longer. In the oriental countries, young kids are - stuffed with chopped raisins and almonds, or pistachio nuts, previous to - roasting; and basted with rich milk, or cream. - </p> - <p> - For sauce to a kid or fawn, use orange marmalade, or grape jelly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="POULTRY_AND_GAME" id="POULTRY_AND_GAME"></a>POULTRY AND GAME. - </h2> - <p> - Spring chickens bring a high price, and are considered delicacies, but - they are so insipid, and have so little on them, that we think the - purchase of them, when very young, a mere fashionable extravagance, and a - waste of money that might be better employed in something that had really - a fine flavor, and that when divided was more than a morsel for each - person. We wonder that any but invalids should care for spring chickens. - It is better to wait till the young chickens grow into nice plump fowls, - that were well fed, and have lived long enough to show it. A fine - full-grown young fowl, has a clear white skin, that tears easily when - tried with a pin. It has a broad fleshy breast, the legs are smooth, and - the toes easily broken when bent back. Fowls with whitish legs are - considered the best for boiling; those with dark legs the best for - roasting. The finest of all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" - id="Page_266">[266]</a></span> fowls are capons. They grow very large and - fat, and yet are as tender as young chickens, have a fine delicate rich - flavor of their own, and are well worth their cost. The great Bucks county - fowls are profitable because they are large; but they are never very - plenty in market, being difficult to raise. The best poultry feels heavy - in proportion to its size. Hen turkeys are best for boiling. - </p> - <p> - Ducks and geese (particularly the latter) are so tough when old, that it - is often impossible to eat them; therefore buy none that are not young. - Geese are generally kept alive too long, for the sake of their feathers, - which they always shed in August, and for which there is always a demand. - And geese are not expensive to keep, as in summer they feed on grass, and - will graze in a field like sheep. The feet and legs of an old goose are - red and hard. So is her bill. The skin is rough, coarse, and tough, and - full of hairs. Let nothing induce you to buy an old goose. You would find - it too tough to carve, and too tough to eat. And no cooking can make her - tender. - </p> - <p> - Poultry should be drawn, or emptied (taking care not to break the gall) as - soon almost as killed. Then let it be well washed, inside and out, and - wiped dry. In picking it, carefully remove every plug or vestige of - feathers, and singe off the hairs, by holding the bird to the fire, with a - lighted piece of writing paper. Brown paper will give it something of an - unpleasant taste. Newspaper is worse, on account of the printing-ink. - </p> - <p> - If poultry is brought from market frozen, you<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span> need not hasten to thaw it, - before it is actually wanted for use. Till then, put it in a cold place, - and let it remain frozen. It will keep the better. When you thaw it, by - all means use only <i>cold</i> water. Any frozen poultry, or meat, thawed - in warm water, will most certainly spoil. Let it be remembered that any - food which has been frozen requires a much longer time to cook. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED TURKEY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For boiling, choose a fine fat hen turkey. In drawing it, be careful not - to break the gall, or a bitter taste will be communicated to the whole - bird. In picking, remove every plug and hair, and then singe it with <i>writing-paper</i>. - Wash it very clean, and then wipe it dry, inside and out. In trussing, - draw the legs into the body, having cut them off at the first joint. Let - the turkey look as round and plump as possible. Fill the breast with a - very nice forcemeat, or stuffing, made of a quarter of a pound of grated - bread-crumbs, mixed with two large table-spoonfuls or two ounces of fresh - butter, or finely minced suet, seasoned with a little pepper and salt, a - heaped tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and mace mixed together, a - table-spoonful of sweet herbs<a name="FNanchor_C" id="FNanchor_C"></a><a - href="#Footnote_C" class="fnanchor">[C]</a> (sweet basil and sweet - marjoram) chopped small if green, and powdered if dry; and the crumbled - yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Add the grated yellow rind,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span> and the - juice of a fresh lemon, and mix the whole very well. Skewer the liver and - gizzard under the pinions, having first cut open the gizzard and cleared - it of sand or gravel. - </p> - <p> - It is no longer customary to mix stuffing or forcemeat with beaten raw egg - for the purpose of binding the ingredients together. Leave them loose, - without this binding, and the forcemeat will be much lighter, better - flavored, and more abundant. It will not fall out if a packthread, or very - <i>small</i> twine is wound carefully round the body, (to be removed - before serving up,) and it may be secured by sewing it with a needle and - thread. - </p> - <p> - Put the turkey into a large pot with plenty of cold water, and boil it - gently, for two hours or more, in proportion to its size; carefully - removing all the scum as it rises. It will be whiter if boiled in a large - clean cloth, or in a coarse paste, (the paste to be thrown away - afterwards,) and take care that it is thoroughly done. Serve up boiled - turkey with oyster sauce, celery sauce, or cauliflower sauce. Sweet sauce - is rarely eaten with boiled things—unless with puddings. - </p> - <p> - Boiled turkey should be accompanied by a ham or tongue. - </p> - <p> - To ascertain if boiled poultry is done, try the thickest parts with a - large needle. If the needle goes through, and in and out easily, it is - sufficient. - </p> - <p> - A turkey (boiled or roast) for a family dish, may be stuffed with nice - sausage meat, in which case it requires no other stuffing. Surround it on - a dish<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span> - with fried sausage cakes, about the size of a dollar, but near an inch - thick. - </p> - <p> - It is very convenient to keep always in the house, during the winter - months, one or two large jars of nice home-made sausage-meat, well - covered. The best time for making sausage-meat is in November. After - March, sausages are seldom eaten. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OYSTER TURKEY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>French dish.</i>)—Prepare a fine young hen turkey, for boiling; - skewering the liver and gizzard under the pinions. Fill the body well with - fine large fresh oysters, having removed their hard part or gristle. Add - to the oysters a tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and mace, and a - tea-spoonful of celery seed or minced celery, and a piece of fresh butter - dredged with flour. With this, stuff the turkey very full; securing the - stuffing with packthread. Put the turkey into a large block-tin kettle, - and let it stew in the oyster liquor only, without any water. Strain the - oyster liquor before you put it in. Set the kettle into an outer kettle - full of boiling water. This will cook the turkey very nicely. For such - purposes, nothing is so convenient as the utensil called in French a <i>bain - marie</i>, (pronounced <i>bine marée</i>.) This is a permanent double - kettle with two covers, and a large tube or spout outside, for pouring in - fresh hot water, without opening the lid and letting out the steam. They - are to be had of all sizes at the furnishing stores in New York and - Philadel<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span>phia, - and are so excellent for stewing without water, that no family should be - without them. - </p> - <p> - When the turkey is well boiled and quite done, keep it warm by wrapping it - closely in a cloth, putting a dish cover over it, and placing it near the - fire. A fine oyster gravy will be found in the kettle. Add to it some - fresh butter, dredged with flour, and some mace and nutmeg, and some - celery seed. Give it one boil up, and send it to table as sauce for the - turkey. This is a very nice way of cooking a small turkey. - </p> - <p> - A pair of oyster chickens may be thus prepared, and stewed in the above - manner in a <i>bain marie</i>, or double kettle. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROAST TURKEY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a fine large turkey, full-grown and fat, draw and singe him - carefully, saving the giblets (neck, heart, gizzard, and liver,) for the - gravy. After he is drawn, wash the inside well, wipe it dry, and sprinkle - it with black pepper. Make a large quantity of stuffing or forcemeat. It - increases his apparent size, and besides is generally liked. Mince small - some cold boiled ham, in equal portions of fat and lean: grated lemon - rind, minced sweet herbs, fresh butter, or finely minced suet. Add plenty - of grated bread-crumbs or crumbled rusk; also, hard-boiled yolk of egg - crumbled. Moisten the mixture with lemon juice and some good white wine. - Stuff the turkey well with this forcemeat, sewing it up, or winding a - small cord round the body to secure the filling.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span> Roast it before a clear and - substantial fire, basting it well with fresh butter. When done, take it up - and keep it hot. - </p> - <p> - Cut up the giblets and put them into a small sauce-pan, with a very little - water, and stew them while the turkey is roasting; adding a piece of fresh - butter dredged with flour. When done, remove the pieces of neck, &c., - retaining those of the heart, liver, and gizzard. Stir into the gravy, - after it comes from the fire, the yolk of a beaten egg. Having skimmed the - gravy in the dripping-pan, add it to the gravy that has been made of the - giblets, and send it to table in a sauce-boat. Accompany the turkey with - an oval dish, or tureen of cranberry sauce, made very sweet. - </p> - <p> - A roast turkey may be stuffed with oysters, or with chestnuts boiled, - peeled, and mashed with butter. If with chestnuts, thicken the gravy with - whole boiled chestnuts. If with oysters, send oyster-sauce to table with - the turkey. If chestnuts cannot be obtained, any roasted poultry is good - stuffed with well-boiled sweet potatos, mashed with plenty of butter or - meat drippings. - </p> - <p> - The legs of turkeys are never helped to any one at table. They are always - sent away on the dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A BONED TURKEY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For this purpose you must have a fine, large, tender turkey; and after it - is drawn, and washed, and wiped dry, lay it on a clean table, and take a - very sharp knife, with a narrow blade and point. Begin at the neck; then<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span> go round - to the shoulders and wings, and carefully separate the flesh from the - bone, scraping it down as you proceed. Next loosen the flesh from the - breast, and back, and body; and then from the thighs. It requires care and - patience to do it nicely, and to avoid tearing or breaking the skin. The - knife should always penetrate quite to the bone; scraping loose the flesh - rather than cutting it. When all the flesh has been completely loosened, - take the turkey by the neck, give it a pull, and the whole skeleton will - come out entirely from the flesh, as easily as you draw your hand out of a - glove. The flesh will then fall down, a flat and shapeless mass. With a - small needle and thread, carefully sew up any holes that have accidentally - been torn in the skin. - </p> - <p> - Have ready a large quantity of stuffing, made as follows:—Take three - sixpenny loaves of stale bread; grate the crumb; and put the crust in - water to soak. When quite soft, break them up small into the pan of grated - bread-crumbs, and mix in a pound of fresh butter, cut into little pieces. - Take two large bunches of sweet marjoram; the same of sweet basil; and one - bunch of parsley. Mince the parsley very fine, and rub to a powder the - leaves of the marjoram and basil. You should have two large heaping - table-spoonfuls of each. Chop, also, two very small onions or shalots, and - mix them with the herbs. Pound to powder a quarter of an ounce of mace; - and two large nutmegs. Mix the spices together, and add a tea-spoonful of - salt, and a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper. Then mix<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span> the - herbs, spices, &c., thoroughly into the bread-crumbs, and add, by - degrees, four hard-boiled eggs crumbled fine. - </p> - <p> - Take up a handful of this filling; squeeze it hard, and proceed to stuff - the turkey with it—beginning at the wings; next do the body; and - then the thighs. Stuff it very hard; and, as you proceed, form the turkey - into its natural shape, by filling out, properly, the wings, breast, body, - &c. When all the stuffing is in, sew up the body and skewer the turkey - into the usual shape in which they are trussed; so that, if skillfully - done, it will look almost as if it had not been boned. Tie it round with - tape, and bake it three hours or more; basting it occasionally with fresh - butter. Make a gravy of the giblets, chopped, and stewed slowly in a - little water. When done, add to it the gravy that is in the dish about the - turkey, (having first skimmed off the fat,) and enrich it with a glass of - white wine, and two beaten yolks of eggs, stirred in just before you take - it from the fire. - </p> - <p> - If the turkey is to be eaten cold at the supper-table, drop - table-spoonfuls of currant or cranberry jelly all over it at small - distances, and in the dish round it. - </p> - <p> - A very handsome way of serving it up cold is, after making a sufficiency - of nice clear calves'-foot jelly, (seasoned, as usual, with wine, lemon, - cinnamon, &c.,) to lay the turkey in the dish in which it is to go to - table, and setting it under the jelly-bag, let the jelly drip upon it, so - as to form a transparent coating all over it; smoothing the jelly<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span> evenly - with the back of a spoon, as it congeals on the turkey. Apple jelly may be - substituted. - </p> - <p> - Large fowls may be boned and stuffed in the above manner: also, a young - roasting pig. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROAST GOOSE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A goose for roasting should be young, tender, and fat; so tender, that the - skin can easily be torn by a pin; the bill and legs smooth and of a light - yellow color, and the toes breaking when bent under. If the skin is thick - and tough, and the bill and legs a dark reddish yellow, rough and hairy, - do not buy the goose. It is old, and no cooking can make it eatable. A - goose, from its profusion of feathers, looks like a large bird when - walking about; but when plucked and prepared for the spit, it will be - found very deceptive. It is much more hollow than a turkey; and, except - the breast, there is but little eating on it. In large families it is - usual to have a pair of roast geese, one not being sufficient. Geese are - not good except for roasting, or in a pie. - </p> - <p> - In preparing a goose for cooking, save the giblets for the gravy. After - the goose has been drawn, singed well, washed and wiped, inside and out; - trussed so as to look round and short; make a quantity of stuffing, (as - its hollow body will require a great deal.) For this purpose, parboil two - good sized onions, and a large bunch of green sage. Mince both the sage - and onions, seasoning them with a small salt-spoon of salt, half as much - black pepper, and still less cayenne. Add a hard-boiled<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span> egg - finely minced (yolk and white;) the chopped egg giving a nice smoothness - to the sage and onion. If your goose is large, take two chopped eggs. - </p> - <p> - To make the stuffing very mild, (if preferred so,) add a handful of finely - grated bread-crumbs; or two or three fine juicy chopped apples. Fill the - body and craw with this stuffing, and secure it with a needle and thread - from falling out. Set the goose before a clear, steady fire—having a - little warm water in the dripping-pan to baste it till the gravy begins to - fall. Keep it well basted all the time it is roasting. It must be - thoroughly done all through. Roast it according to its size, from an hour - and a half to two hours or more. - </p> - <p> - Boil the giblets in a sauce-pan by themselves, seasoned with a little salt - and pepper, and having among them a bit of butter dredged with flour. When - done, remove the neck, and retain the heart, liver, and gizzard, cut into - pieces, and served in the gravy, which should be well skimmed. Also, skim - carefully the fat off the gravy in the bottom of the dripping-pan. Put the - two gravies together, and serve them up in a gravy tureen. To eat with the - goose, have plenty of apple-sauce, made of fine juicy apples, stewed very - dry, well sweetened, and flavored with the grated yellow rind and juice of - a lemon; or with some rose-water and nutmeg stirred in after the sauce is - taken from the fire. Rose-water evaporates in cooking, and should never - boil or be kept on the fire. A <i>bain marie</i>, or double kettle, is - excellent for stewing fruit; putting the fruit inside, and the water - outside.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - For a family dinner a goose is very good stuffed with well-boiled potatos, - mashed smooth, with plenty of fresh butter or gravy. Sweet potatos make an - excellent stuffing. So do boiled chestnuts, mashed with butter or gravy. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GOOSE PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The old fashioned goose pie made with a standing crust, (the flour being - mixed with boiling water, and therefore unfit for eating,) is now - obsolete. They were generally sent as Christmas presents. Besides the - goose, they contained chickens, pigeons, (all boned,) and various other - things. They had standing sides like an oval wall, covered with a lid of - the same paste, having, on the top, a knob, by which to lift off. These - pies were expected to remain good a week; but generally the gravy became - sour in a few days, even in winter, and however carefully kept from the - air. The following is a receipt to make a fine goose pie for immediate - use, and with a nice eatable paste. - </p> - <p> - Take a fine plump young goose, and parboil it, (in as little water as will - cover it,) saving the gravy. Having removed the skin, cut all the flesh - from the bones. Make a nice light short paste, allowing a large half pound - of fresh butter to each quart of flour. For a goose pie you will require - two quarts of flour and one pound of butter. Line a deep pie-dish with one - sheet of paste, reserving the other sheet for the lid, which should be - rolled out thick. Put in the pieces of<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span> goose, seasoned with pepper - only, interspersing among it the best part of a smoked tongue, cut in - thick round slices. Make a nice forcemeat into balls, about the size of a - hickory nut, and add them to the filling of the pie; and some chestnuts - boiled and peeled; or some round slices of boiled sweet potato. Having - made a gravy of the giblets stewed, pour that over the other ingredients, - filling the pie well, and heaping it high in the middle. Add a few bits of - fresh butter dredged in flour. Pour in the gravy, and lay on the top the - lid of the pie rolled out thick, ornamenting the edges handsomely. Cut a - cross slit in the top, and fit into it a flower, or tulip cut out of - paste. This pie is for dinner company, and to be eaten warm. - </p> - <p> - You may make a similar pie of a pair of fine ducks, either tame or wild. - Canvas-backs and red necks are excellent for this purpose. To eat with it, - have mashed potato, browned all over with a salamander. - </p> - <p> - On the shores of our southern rivers, where canvas-backs and other fine - wild ducks are abundant, a pie affords an agreeable variety to the usual - modes of cooking them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A GIBLET PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Clean, very nicely, the giblets of two geese or four ducks. Put them into - a stew-pan, with a sliced onion; a bunch of tarragon, or sweet marjoram - and sage; half a dozen pepper-corns; and four or five blades of mace. Add - a very little water; cover the pan closely, and let<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span> them stew till the giblets - are tender. Then take them out, and save all the gravy; having strained it - from the seasoning articles. Make a rich paste, and roll it out into two - sheets. With one sheet cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Put in - the giblets—mixing among them a few raw potatos sliced very thin, - the chopped yolks of some hard-boiled eggs, and some bits of butter rolled - in flour. Pour the gravy over the giblets, &c. Cover the pie with the - other sheet of paste, and notch the edges. Bake it brown, and send it to - table hot. - </p> - <p> - A pigeon pie may be made in a similar manner: also, a rabbit pie. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROAST DUCKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pair of fine fat ducks, and having prepared them nicely for the - spit, put them, for a few minutes, into boiling water to loosen the skin, - which must be peeled entirely off, to have them very nice and tender. Wash - their insides by pouring water through them, and wipe the outside all over - with a dry cloth. Fill the body and craw of one duck with a seasoning of - sage and onion, as for a goose. In case some of the company should have a - dislike to onion, fill the other duck with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, - sweet herbs, &c., as for turkey. Place them before a quick fire, but - not so near as to scorch. Roast them well, basting them all the time. Skim - the fat off, and pour over the ducks their own gravy, mixed with what has - been made of the necks, livers, hearts, and gizzards, stewed<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span> in a - small sauce-pan with some butter dredged with flour. Send to table with - the ducks either cranberry or apple sauce, made thick and sweet. - </p> - <p> - Let them be thoroughly roasted, which will require from an hour to an hour - and a quarter. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WILD DUCKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To remove the fishy or sedgy taste so often found in wild ducks, parboil - them with a large carrot, cut in pieces, and placed in the body of each. - When the ducks are half boiled, take out the carrot and throw it away. It - will have imbibed all the unpleasant taste, and taken it away from the - ducks. Then cook them as you please. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED DUCK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Prepare for cooking a fine plump tame duck, and lay it five or six minutes - in warm water. Then put it into a clean large bowl or deep dish, and pour - over it a pint of rich boiling milk, in which has been melted two - table-spoonfuls of nice fresh butter. Let the duck soak in the milk three - hours, or till it has absorbed nearly all the liquid. Next, dredge the - duck well with flour. Boil it in cold water for half an hour, till tender - all through. Have ready a quantity of onion sauce made with milk and - butter, and flavored with powdered mace or nutmeg. Cover the duck all over - with the onion sauce, so as to smother it entirely. Then send it to table - hot. This is a French dish, (<i>canard bouilli</i>.)<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DUCKS AND PEAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stuff a fine plump pair of ducks with potato stuffing, made of boiled - potatos mashed very smooth with fresh butter; or, if for company, make a - fine forcemeat stuffing, as for a turkey. Bake the ducks in an iron oven - or bake-pan; and when nearly done, put in with them a quart of very young - green peas, and a few bits of fresh butter, seasoning slightly with black - pepper. When the peas and ducks are all quite done, serve them all up on - one large dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRICASSEED DUCKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Half roast a pair of ducks. Then cut them apart, as for carving. If they - are <i>wild</i> ducks, parboil them with a large carrot (cut to pieces) - inside of each, to draw out the fishy or sedgy taste. Having thrown away - the carrot, cut the ducks into pieces, as for carving. Put them into a - clean stew-pan, and season them with pepper and salt. Mix in a deep dish a - very small onion minced fine, a table-spoonful of minced or powdered - tarragon leaves, (for which you may substitute sage and sweet marjoram, if - you cannot procure tarragon,) and two or three large tomatos, scalded, - peeled, and quartered, or two large table-spoonfuls of thick tomato - catchup. Put in, also, two table-spoonfuls of fresh butter rolled in - grated bread-crumbs, and a glass of port wine, claret, or brandy, with a - small tea-spoonful of powdered mace. Cover the pieces of duck with this - mixture, and then add barely as much water as will keep the whole from - burning. Cover<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span> - the pan closely, and let the fricassee stew slowly for an hour, or till - the duck, &c., are thoroughly done. - </p> - <p> - Venison or lamb cutlets may be fricasseed in this manner. Likewise, tame - fat pigeons, which must previously be split in two. This, also, is a very - nice way of dressing hares or rabbits. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO ROAST CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having trussed the ducks, put into each a thick piece of soft bread that - has been soaked in port wine. Place them before a quick fire and roast - them from three quarters to an hour. Before they go to table, squeeze over - each the juice of a lemon or orange, and serve them up very hot with their - own gravy about them. Eat them with currant jelly. Have ready also, a - gravy made by stewing slowly in a sauce-pan the giblets of the ducks in - butter rolled in flour, and as little water as possible. Serve up this - additional gravy in a boat. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CANVAS-BACK DUCKS DRESSED PLAIN.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Truss the ducks without washing, but wipe them inside and out with a clean - dry cloth. Roast them before a rather quick fire for half an hour. Then - send them to table hot, upon a large dish placed on a heater. There must - also be heaters under each plate, and currant jelly on both sides of the - table, to mix with the gravy, on your<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span> plate; claret or port wine - also, for those who prefer it as an improvement to the gravy. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO STEW CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put the giblets into a sauce-pan with a very little water, and a piece of - butter rolled in flour, and a very little salt and cayenne. Let them stew - gently to make a gravy, keeping the sauce-pan covered. In the mean time, - half roast the ducks, saving the gravy that falls from them. Then cut them - up, put them into a large stew-pan, with the gravy (having first skimmed - off the fat,) and merely water enough to keep them from burning. Set the - pan over a moderate fire, and let them stew gently till done. Towards the - last, (having removed the giblets) pour over the ducks the gravy from the - small sauce-pan, and stir in a large glass of port wine, and a glass of - currant jelly. Send them to table as hot as possible. - </p> - <p> - Any ducks may be stewed as above. The common wild duck, teal, &c., - should always be parboiled with a large carrot in the body to extract the - fishy or sedgy taste. On tasting this carrot before it is thrown away, it - will be found to have imbibed strongly that disagreeable flavor. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To eat these ducks with their flavor and juices in perfection, they should - be cooked immediately after killing. If shot early in the morning, they - will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span> - be found delicious, if broiled for breakfast. If killed in the forenoon, - let them be on that day's dinner table. When they can be obtained quite - fresh they want nothing to improve the flavor. Neither do red-necks, or - the other water fowl that are found in such abundance on the shores of the - Chesapeake. - </p> - <p> - As soon as the ducks have been plucked, singed, drawn, and washed, split - them down the back, (their heads, necks, and legs having been cut off,) - rub with chalk the bars of a very clean gridiron, and set it over a bed of - bright lively wood-coals. This gridiron (and all others) should have - grooved bars, so as to save as much of the gravy as possible. Broil the - ducks well and thoroughly, turning them on both sides. They will generally - be done in half an hour. Dish them in their own gravy. The flesh should - have no redness about it when dished. To half broil them on the gridiron, - and to finish the cooking on a hot plate, set over a heater on the table, - renders the ducks tough, and deadens the natural taste, for which no - made-up sauce can atone. You may lay a few bits of nice butter on them - after they are dished. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TERRAPIN DUCKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a fine large plump duck. Cut it in small pieces, and stew it in - merely as much water as will cover it well, and keep it from burning. Let - it stew gently, and skim it well. When it is done take it out, and cut all - the meat off the bones in little bits. Return the<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span> meat to the stew-pan, and - lay it in its own gravy. Add the yolks of half a dozen hard-boiled eggs, - and make them into little balls with beaten white of egg, a quarter of a - pound of fresh butter divided into eight bits, each bit dredged with - flour, the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon or orange, and a heaped - tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg. Let it stew or simmer gently - till it comes to a boil, keeping it covered. When it has boiled, stir in - while hot two beaten yolks of raw egg, and two large wine glasses of - sherry or Madeira. Set it over the fire again for two or three minutes, - keeping it covered. Then serve it up in a deep dish with a cover. - </p> - <p> - For company, you must have two ducks, and a double portion of all the - above ingredients. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROAST FOWLS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stuff two fowls with a nice forcemeat, made in the best manner, or with - good sausage meat, if in haste. Another nice stuffing for roast fowls is - boiled chestnuts, stewed in butter, or in nice drippings. Mushrooms cut up - and stewed in a very little butter, make a fine stuffing for roasted - fowls. Secure the stuffing from falling out by winding a twine or tape - round the body of the fowl, or sewing it. Roast the fowls before a very - clear fire, basting them with butter. When the fowls are done, set them - away to be kept warm, while you finish the gravy, having saved the heart, - gizzard, and liver, to enrich it. Skim it well from the fat and thicken it - with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span> - very little browned flour. Send it to table in a sauce-boat. Serve up with - roast fowls, dried peach sauce, or cranberry. Make all fruit sauces very - thick and sweet. If watery and sour, they seem poor and mean. - </p> - <p> - Full-grown fowls require, (at least,) an hour for roasting. If very large, - from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. - </p> - <p> - Nothing can be done with old tough fowls but to boil them in soup, till - they are reduced to rags. The soup, of course, should be made chiefly of - meat. The fowls will add nothing to its flavor but something to its - consistence. - </p> - <p> - Capons are cooked in the same manner as other fowls. They are well worth - their cost. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED FOWLS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a fine plump pair of young (but full-grown) fowls, and prepare them - for boiling. Those with white or light yellow legs are considered the - best. Make a nice forcemeat stuffing, and fill their bodies with it, and - fasten the livers and gizzards under the pinions. For boiled poultry they - are not wanted in the gravy. Having trussed the fowls, and picked and - singed them carefully, put them into a large pot containing equal - quantities of boiling water and cold water. This will make it lukewarm. - Let them boil steadily for an hour after the simmering has commenced, - carefully removing the scum. - </p> - <p> - Serve them up with egg sauce, celery sauce,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span> parsley sauce, or oyster - sauce—or, with cauliflower or broccoli sauce. - </p> - <p> - For boiled fowls, you may make a nice stuffing of fresh oysters, cut in - small pieces, but not minced. Omit the gristle. Mix them with an equal - portion of hard-boiled eggs chopped, but not minced fine. Add plenty of - grated bread-crumbs, and season with powdered mace. Mix in, also, some - bits of fresh butter. Where onions are liked, you may substitute for the - oysters some onions boiled and minced. - </p> - <p> - Fowls boil very nicely in a <i>bain marie</i>, or double kettle, with the - water outside. They require a longer time, but are excellent when done. To - quicken the boiling of a double kettle, put a handful of salt in the - outside water. - </p> - <p> - Small chickens, of course, require a shorter time to cook. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PULLED FOWL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a side dish for company. Select a fine tender fowl, young, fat, - full-grown, and of a large kind. When quite done take it out of the pot, - cover it, and set it away till wanted. Then, with a fork, pull off in - flakes all the flesh, (first removing the skin,) and with a chopper break - all the bones, and put them into a stew-pan, adding two calves' feet - split, and the hock of a cold ham, a small bunch of parsley and sweet - marjoram, and a quart of water. Let it boil gently till reduced to a pint. - Then take it out. Have ready, in another stew-pan, the bits of pulled - fowl. Strain the liquor from the bones,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span> &c., over the fowl, and - add a piece of fresh butter, (the size of a small egg,) rolled in flour, - and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg, mixed. Mix the whole - together, and let the pulled fowl stew in gravy for ten minutes. Serve it - hot. - </p> - <p> - A turkey may be cooked in this manner, and will make a fine dish. For a - turkey allow four calves' feet. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED CHICKENS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up a pair of nice young fowls, flatten and quarter them, and season - them with cayenne and powdered mace, rubbing it in well. Put some lard - into a heated frying pan over the fire, or if you have plenty of nice - fresh butter use that in preference. When the lard or butter boils, and - has been skimmed, put in the pieces of chicken, and fry them brown on one - side. Then turn them, and sprinkle them thickly all over with chopped - parsley, or sweet marjoram, and fry them brown on the other side. You may - fry with them a few thin slices of cold ham. Before serving them up drain - off the lard you have used for frying. - </p> - <p> - When there is no dislike to onions, they may be fried nicely with boiled - onions cut in rings, and laid over the pieces of chicken. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED CHICKENS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - These are very dry and tasteless if merely split and broiled plain, which - is the usual way. It seems to be supposed by many that no chicken is too - poor for broiling,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span> - and therefore it is often difficult to get more than two or three small - mouthfuls of flesh off their bones. On the contrary, poor chickens are not - worth broiling or cooking in any way. To have broiled chickens good, - choose those that are fat and fleshy. Having cleaned them well, and washed - them, and wiped them dry, split and divide them into four quarters; - flattening the bones with a steak mallet. They will be much improved by - stewing or boiling in a little water for ten minutes. Then draining them - and saving the liquor for gravy. Boil in this the neck, feet, heart, - gizzard and liver. Strain it after boiling, and save the liver to mash - into the gravy. Season the gravy with grated carrot and minced parsley, or - sweet marjoram, and a little cayenne, adding a small piece of fresh butter - dredged in flour. Have ready plenty of fine bread-crumbs, seasoned with - nutmeg, and in another pan four yolks of eggs well beaten. The quarters of - the chickens having become quite cold, dip each one first into the egg, - and then into the crumbs. Set the gridiron over a clear fire, and broil - the chicken well, first laying down the inside. Having prepared the gravy - as above, give it a short boil, then send it to table in a sauce-boat with - the chickens. - </p> - <p> - The excellence of chickens broiled in this way amply repays the trouble. - This is a breakfast dish. - </p> - <p> - Serve up with the broiled chicken a dish of mashed potato cakes, browned - with a salamander or red-hot shovel.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRICASSEED CHICKEN.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready a pair of fine plump full-grown fowls nicely prepared for - cooking. Strip off all the skin, and carve the fowls neatly. Reserve all - the white meat and best pieces for the fricassee, putting them in a dish - by themselves, and save all the inferior pieces or black meat to make the - gravy. Season with pepper and salt slightly, and add a bunch of sweet - herbs cut small, and four small bits of fresh butter dredged with flour. - Put the black meat, herbs, &c., into a stew-pan. Pour in a pint and a - half of water, and stew it gently, skimming off every particle of fat. - When reduced to less than one half, strain the gravy. Arrange the pieces - of white meat in a very clean stew-pan, and pour over them the gravy of - the inferior parts; add mace, nutmeg, and a little cayenne. Mix into half - a pint of boiling cream, a large tea-spoonful of arrow-root, and shake the - pan briskly round, while adding the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, mixed - with more cream, (two table-spoonfuls.) Shake it gently over the fire till - it begins to simmer again, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle - in an instant. Watch it carefully. - </p> - <p> - This is a fine side-dish for company. There is no better way of - fricasseeing fowls. A fricassee is not a fry, but a stew. - </p> - <p> - Accompany this fricassee with a dish of asparagus tops, green peas, or - lima beans. Also, mashed potatos.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" - id="Page_290">[290]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHICKENS STEWED WHOLE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having trussed a pair of fine fat young fowls or chickens, (with the liver - under one wing, and the gizzard under the other,) fill the inside with - large oysters, secured from falling out by fastening tape round the bodies - of the fowls. Put them into a tin butter kettle with a close cover. Set - the kettle into a larger pot or saucepan of boiling water, (which must not - reach quite to the top of the kettle,) and place it over the fire. Keep it - boiling till the fowls are well done, which they should be in about an - hour after they begin to simmer. Occasionally take off the lid to remove - the scum, and be sure to put it on again closely. As the water in the - outside pot boils away, replenish it with more <i>hot</i> water from a - tea-kettle that is kept boiling hard. When the fowls are stewed quite - tender, remove them from the fire; take from them all the gravy that is - about them, and put it into a small sauce-pan, covering closely the kettle - in which they were stewed, and leaving the fowls in it to keep warm. Then - add to the gravy two table-spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, two - table-spoonfuls of chopped oysters, the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs - minced fine, half a grated nutmeg, four blades of mace, and a small - tea-cup of cream. Boil this gravy about five minutes. Put the fowls on a - dish and send them to table, accompanied by the gravy in a sauce-boat. - This is an excellent way of cooking chickens. They do well in large <i>bain - marie</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FOWL AND OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a fine fat young fowl, and having trussed it for boiling, fill the - body and craw with oysters, seasoned with a few blades of mace, tying it - round with twine to keep them in. Put the fowl into a tall strait-sided - jar, and cover it closely. Then place the jar in a kettle of water, set it - over the fire, and let it boil at least an hour and a half after the water - has come to a hard boil. When it is done take out the fowl, and keep it - hot while you prepare the gravy, of which you will find a quantity in the - jar. Transfer this gravy to a saucepan, enrich it with the beaten yolks of - two eggs mixed with three table-spoonfuls of cream, and add a large - table-spoonful of fresh butter rolled in flour. If you cannot get cream, - you must have a double portion of butter. Set this sauce over the fire, - stirring it well, and when it comes to a boil, add twenty-five oysters. In - five minutes take it off, put it into a sauce-boat, and serve it up with - the fowl, which cooked in this manner will be found excellent. - </p> - <p> - Clams may be substituted for oysters, but they should be removed from the - fowl before it is sent to table. Their flavor being drawn out in the - gravy, the clams themselves will be found tough, tasteless, and not proper - to be eaten. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRENCH CHICKEN PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Parboil a pair of full-grown, but fat and tender chickens. Then take the - giblets, and put them into a small sauce-pan with<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span> as much of the water in - which the chickens were parboiled as will cover them well, and stew them - for gravy; add a bunch of sweet herbs and a few blades of mace. When the - chickens are cold, dissect them as for carving. Line a deep dish with - thick puff paste, and put in the pieces of chicken. Take a nice thin slice - of cold ham, or two slices of smoked tongue, and pound them one at a time - in a marble mortar, pounding also the livers of the chickens, and the - yolks of half a dozen hard-boiled eggs. Make this forcemeat into balls, - and intersperse them among the pieces of chicken. Add some bits of fresh - butter rolled in flour, and then (having removed the giblets) pour on the - gravy. Cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste, rolled out thick; and notch - the edges handsomely; placing a knot or ornament of paste on the centre of - the top. Set it directly into a well-heated oven, and bake it brown. It - should be eaten warm. - </p> - <p> - This pie will be greatly improved by a pint of mushrooms, cut into pieces. - Also by a small tea-cup of cream. - </p> - <p> - Any pie of poultry, pigeons, or game may be made in this manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHICKEN GUMBO.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up a young fowl as if for a fricassee. Put into a stew-pan a large - table-spoonful of fresh butter, mixed with a tea-spoonful of flour, and an - onion finely minced. Brown them over the fire, and then add a quart of - water, and the pieces of chicken, with a large quarter of a<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span> peck of - ochras, (first sliced thin, and then chopped,) and a salt-spoon of salt. - Cover the pan, and let the whole stew together, till the ochras are - entirely dissolved, and the fowl thoroughly done. If it is a very young - chicken, do not put it in at first; as half an hour will be sufficient to - cook it. Serve it up hot in a deep dish. - </p> - <p> - You may add to the ochras an equal quantity of tomatos cut small. If you - use tomatos, no water will be necessary, as their juice will supply a - sufficient liquid. - </p> - <p> - <a name="FNanchor_D" id="FNanchor_D"></a><a href="#Footnote_D" - class="fnanchor">[D]</a> FILET GUMBO.—Cut up a pair of fine plump - fowls into pieces, as when carving. Lay them in a pan of cold water, till - all the blood is drawn out. Put into a pot, two large table-spoonfuls of - lard, and set it over the fire. When the lard has come to a boil, put in - the chickens with an onion finely minced. Dredge them well with flour, and - season slightly with salt and pepper; and, if you like it, a little - chopped marjoram. Pour on it two quarts of boiling water. Cover it, and - let it simmer slowly for three hours. Then stir into it two heaped - tea-spoonfuls of sassafras powder. Afterwards, let it stew five or six - minutes longer, and then send it to table in a deep dish; having a dish of - boiled rice to be eaten with it by those who like rice. - </p> - <p> - This gumbo will be much improved by stewing with it three or four thin - slices of cold boiled ham, in which case omit the salt in the seasoning. - When<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span>ever - cold ham is an ingredient in any dish, no other salt is required. - </p> - <p> - A dozen fresh oysters and their liquor, added to the stew about half an - hour before it is taken up, will also be an improvement. - </p> - <p> - If you cannot conveniently obtain sassafras-powder, stir the gumbo - frequently with a stick of sassafras root. - </p> - <p> - This is a genuine southern receipt. Filet gumbo may be made of any sort of - poultry, or of veal, lamb, venison, or kid. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TOMATO CHICKEN.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take four small chickens or two large ones, and cut them up as for - carving. Put them into a stew-pan, with one or two large slices of cold - boiled ham cut into little bits; eight or ten large tomatos; an onion - sliced; a bunch of pot-herbs,(cut up;) a small green pepper, (the seeds - and veins first extracted;) half a dozen blades of mace; a table-spoonful - of lard or of fresh butter, rolled in flour; or a handful of grated - bread-crumbs. Add a tumbler or half a pint of water. Cover the sauce-pan - closely with a cloth beneath the lid; set it on hot coals, or over a - moderate fire; and let it stew slowly till the chickens are thoroughly - done, and the tomatos entirely dissolved. Turn it out into a deep dish. - </p> - <p> - Rabbits may be stewed in this manner. Also, veal steaks, cut thin and - small.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TURKEY AND CHICKEN PATTIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the white part of some cold turkey or chicken, and mince it very - fine. Mince also some cold boiled ham or smoked tongue, and then mix the - turkey and ham together. Add the yolks of some hard-boiled eggs, grated or - minced; a very little cayenne; and some powdered mace and nutmeg. Moisten - the whole with cream or fresh butter. Have ready some puff-paste shells, - that have been baked empty in patty-pans. Place them on a large dish, and - fill them with the mixture. - </p> - <p> - Cold fillet of veal minced, and mixed with chopped ham, and grated yolk of - egg, and seasoned as above will make very good patties. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHICKEN RICE PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Parboil a fine fowl, and cut it up. Boil, till soft and dry, a pint of - rice; and while warm, mix with it a large table-spoonful of fresh butter. - Beat four eggs very light; and then mix them, gradually, with the rice. - Spread a coating of the fresh butter, &c., over the bottom and sides - of a deep dish. Place on it the pieces of the parboiled fowl, with a - little of the liquid in which it was boiled—seasoned with powdered - mace and nutmeg. Add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour and a - little cream. Cover the dish closely with the remainder of the rice; set - the pudding immediately into the oven and bake it brown. - </p> - <p> - Cold chicken or turkey, cooked the day before, may be used for this - purpose. The pudding may<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" - id="Page_296">[296]</a></span> be improved by the addition of a few very - thin, small slices of cold ham, or smoked tongue. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RICE CROQUETTES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil half a pound of rice till it becomes quite soft and dry. Then mix - with it two table spoonfuls of rich (but not strong) grated cheese, a - small tea-spoonful of powdered mace, and sufficient fresh butter to - moisten it. Mince very fine, six table-spoonfuls of the white part of cold - chicken or turkey, the soft parts of six large oysters, and a few sprigs - of tarragon or parsley; add a grated nutmeg, and the yellow rind of a - lemon. Mix the whole well, moistening it with cream or white wine. Take of - the prepared rice, a portion about the size of an egg, flatten it, and put - into the centre a dessert-spoonful of the mixture; close the rice round it - as you would the paste round a dumpling-apple. Then form it into the shape - of an egg. Brush it over with some beaten yolk of egg and then dredge it - with pounded crackers. In this way make up the whole into oval balls. Have - ready, in a sauce-pan over the fire, a pound of boiling lard. Into this - throw the croquettes, two at a time, so as to brown them. Let them brown - for a few minutes; then take them out with a perforated skimmer. Drain - them from the lard, and serve them up hot, garnished with curled parsley.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHICKEN POT-PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up and parboil a pair of large fowls, seasoning them with pepper, - salt, and nutmeg. You may add some small slices of cold ham; in which case - use <i>no salt</i>, as the ham will make it salt enough. Or you may put in - some pieces of the lean of fresh pork. You may prepare a suet-paste; but - for a chicken pot-pie it is best to make the paste of butter, which should - be fresh, and of the best quality. Allow to each quart of flour, a small - half-pound of butter. There should be enough for a great deal of paste. - Line the sides of the pot, two-thirds up, with paste. Put in the chickens, - with the liquor in which they were parboiled. You may add some sliced - potatos. Intersperse the pieces of chicken with layers of paste in square - slices. Then cover the whole with a lid of paste, not fitting very - closely. Make a cross-slit in the top, and boil the pie about an hour or - more. - </p> - <p> - Instead of ham, you may add some clams to the chicken, omitting salt in - the seasoning, as the clams will salt it quite enough. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHICKEN CURRY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having skinned a pair of fine chickens, cut them into six pieces each, - that is, two wings, two pieces of the breast, and two legs cut off at the - joint. Put into a stew-pan two boiled onions chopped, and four ounces or - four table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Shake the pan till the contents - begin to simmer; then add four table-spoonfuls of curry-powder and mix it<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span> well in; - also, four table-spoonfuls of grated cocoa-nut. Mix all well in the - stew-pan, and then put in the pieces of chicken. Cover the pan, and let - all stew moderately for half an hour, stirring it round occasionally; and, - if getting too dry, add a little hot water. Also, towards the last, the - grated yellow rind of a lemon and the juice. It should stew till the - chicken is quite tender, and till the flesh parts easily from the bones. - Serve it up hot, in a covered dish, and send half a pound of boiled rice - in a separate dish, <i>uncovered</i>. This is a dish for company. - </p> - <p> - Young ducks, or a young hen turkey, or a pair of rabbits, may be cooked in - the same manner. Also, lamb or veal. - </p> - <p> - For curried oysters, take a hundred large fresh ones, and proceed as - above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RICE PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick clean a quart of rice, and wash it well through two or three waters. - Tie it in a cloth, put it into a pot of boiled milk, and boil it till - perfectly soft. Then drain and press it till as dry as possible, and mix - with it two ounces of fresh butter. Take a small tin butter-kettle; wet - the inside, put in the rice, and stand it in a cool place till quite cold. - Then turn it carefully out of the kettle, (of which it will retain the - form,) rub it over with the beaten yolk of an egg, and set it in an oven - till lightly browned. Cut out from the top of the mass of rice an oval - lid, about two inches from the edge,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span> so as to leave a flat rim - or border all round. Then excavate the mould of rice, leaving a standing - crust all round and at the bottom, about two inches thick. Have ready some - hot stewed oysters or birds, or brown or white fricassee. Fill up the pie - with it, adding the gravy. Lay on the lid, and decorate it with sprigs of - green curled parsley, stuck in all round the crack where the lid is put - on. - </p> - <p> - This pie may be filled with curried chicken. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COUNTRY CAPTAIN.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is an East India dish, and a very easy preparation of curry. The term - "country captain," signifies a captain of the native troops, (or Sepoys,) - in the pay of England; their own country being India, they are there - called generally the country troops. Probably this dish was first - introduced at English tables by a Sepoy officer. - </p> - <p> - Having well boiled a fine full-grown fowl, cut it up as for carving. Have - ready two large onions boiled and sliced. Season the pieces of chicken - with curry powder or turmeric; rubbed well into them, all over. Fry them - with the onion, in plenty of lard or fresh butter, and when well-browned - they are done enough. Take them up with a perforated skimmer, and drain - through its holes. It will be a great improvement to put in, at the - beginning, three or four table-spoonfuls of finely grated cocoa-nut. This - will be found an advantage to any curry. - </p> - <p> - Serve up, in another dish, a pint of rice, well<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span> picked, and washed clean in - two or three cold waters. Boil the rice in plenty of water, (leaving the - skillet or sauce-pan uncovered;) and when it is done, drain it very dry, - and set it on a dish before the fire, tossing it up with two forks, one in - each hand, so as to separate all the grains, leaving each one to stand for - itself. All rice for the dinner table should be cooked in this manner. - Persons accustomed to rice never eat it watery or clammy, or lying in a - moist mass. Rice should never be covered, either while boiling, or when - dished. - </p> - <p> - We recommend this "country captain." - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CURRIED EGGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil six fresh eggs till they are hard enough for salad, and then set them - away to get cold. Mix together, in a stew-pan, three ounces (or three - large table-spoonfuls) of nice fresh butter, and three dessert-spoonfuls - of curry powder. Shake them together for five minutes over a clear but - moderate fire. Then throw in two boiled onions finely minced, and let them - cook, gently, till quite soft, adding three ounces or three large - spoonfuls of grated cocoa-nut. Cut the eggs into rather thick slices. Put - them into the mixture, with a small tea-cupful of thick cream, or if you - cannot obtain cream, with two more spoonfuls of butter dredged with flour. - Let the whole simmer together, but when it approaches coming to a boil, - take it immediately off the fire and serve it up hot. This is a nice - side-dish for company.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_301" - id="Page_301">[301]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PARTRIDGES PEAR FASHION— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>French dish.</i>)—Your partridges should be fine and fat, and of - the same size. For a large dish have three or four. Truss them tight and - round, and rub over them a little salt and cayenne, mixed. Cut off one of - the legs and leave the other on, fill them with a nice forcemeat. Make a - rich paste of flour, butter, and beaten egg, using as little water as - possible. Be sure to make enough of paste to cover each partridge entirely - over, and roll it out evenly, and rather thick than thin. Put a sufficient - portion of paste nicely round each partridge, pressing it closely and - smoothly with your hand, and forming it into the shape of a large pear. - Leave one leg sticking out at the top to resemble the stem, having cut off - the foot. Set them in a pan, and bake them in a dutch oven. In the mean - time, make in a small sauce-pan, a rich brown gravy of the livers, and - other trimmings of the partridges, and some drippings of roast veal or - roasted poultry. It will be better still if you reserve one or two small - partridges to cut up, and stew for the gravy. Season it with a little salt - and cayenne. When it has boiled long enough to be very thick and rich, - take it off, strain it, and put the liquid into a clean sauce-pan. Add the - juice of a large orange, made very sweet with powdered white sugar. Set it - over the fire, and when it comes to a boil, stir in the beaten yolks of - two eggs. Let it boil two or three minutes longer; then take it off, and - keep it hot till the partridges and their paste are thoroughly well baked. - When<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[302]</a></span> - done, stand up the partridges in a deep dish, and serve up the gravy in a - sauce-boat. Ornament the partridge-pears by sticking some orange leaves - into the end that represents the stalk. This is a nice and handsome side - dish, of French origin. - </p> - <p> - Pigeons and quails may be dressed in this manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SALMI OF PARTRIDGES— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>French dish.</i>)—Having covered two large or four small - partridges with very thin slices of fat cold ham, secured with twine, - roast them; but see that they are not too much done. Remove the ham, skin - the partridges, cut them into pieces, and let them get quite cold. - Partridges that have been roasted the preceding day are good for this - purpose. Cut off all the meat from the bones, season it with a little - cayenne, and put it into a stew-pan. Mix together three table-spoonfuls of - sweet oil, a glass of excellent wine, (either red or white,) and the - grated peel and juice of an orange. Pour this gravy over the partridges, - and let them stew in it during ten minutes; then add the beaten yolk of an - egg, and stew it about three or four minutes longer. All the time it is - stewing, continue to shake or move the pan over the fire. Serve it up hot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROASTED PARTRIDGES, PHEASANTS, AND QUAILS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a stuffing of fat bacon finely minced, and boiled chestnuts or grated - sweet potatoe boiled, mashed, and seasoned with pepper<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[303]</a></span> only. Fill the birds with - this. Cover them with thin slices of bacon, and wrap them well in young - vine leaves. Roast them well, and serve them up in the bacon and vine - leaves, to be taken off when they come to table. For company, have orange - sauce to eat with them. If you roast pigeons, &c., without a covering - of bacon and vine leaves, do them with egg and bread-crumbs all over. - </p> - <p> - If these birds have a bitter taste when cooked, do not eat them. It is - produced by their feeding on laurel berries in winter, when their food is - scarce. Laural berries are poisonous, and people have died from eating - birds that have fed on them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BIRDS WITH MUSHROOMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two dozen reed-birds, (or other nice small birds,) and truss them as - if for roasting. Put into each a button mushroom, of which you should have - a heaping pint after the stalks are all removed. Put the birds and the - remaining mushrooms into a stew-pan. Season them with a very little salt - and pepper, and add either a quarter of a pound of fresh butter (divided - into four, and slightly rolled in flour,) or a pint of rich cream. If - cream is not plenty, you may use half butter and half cream, well mixed - together. Cover the stew-pan closely, and set it over a moderate fire, to - stew gently till the birds and mushrooms are thoroughly done and tender - all through. Do not open the lid to stir the stew, but give the pan, - occasionally, a hard shake. Dip in hot water a large slice of<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</a></span> toast - with the crust trimmed off. When the birds are done lay them on the toast - with the mushrooms around. - </p> - <p> - If you cannot get button-mushrooms, divide large ones into quarters. - </p> - <p> - Plovers are very nice stewed with mushrooms. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BIRDS IN A GROVE— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>French dish.</i>)—Having roasted some reed-birds, larks, - plovers, or any other small birds, such as are usually eaten, mash some - potatos with butter and cream. Spread the mashed potato thickly over the - bottom, sides, and edges of a deep dish. Nick or crimp the border of - potatoe that goes round the edge, or scollop it with a tin cutter. You - may, if you choose, brown it by holding over it a salamander, or a red-hot - shovel. Then lay the roasted birds in the middle of the dish, and stick - round them and among them, very thickly, a sufficient number of sprigs of - curled or double parsley. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - THATCHED HOUSE PIE— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>French dish.</i>)—Rub the inside of a deep dish with two ounces - of fresh butter, and spread over it two ounces of vermicelli. Then line - the dish with puff-paste. Have ready some birds seasoned with powdered - nutmeg, and a very little salt and pepper. Place them with the breast - downward. They will be much improved by putting into each a mushroom or an - oyster chopped fine. Lay them on the paste.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[305]</a></span> Add some gravy of roast - veal, (cold gravy saved from veal roasted the preceding day will do very - well,) and cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste. Bake it in a moderate - oven, and when done, turn it out <i>carefully</i> upon a flat dish, and - send it to table. The vermicelli, which was originally at the bottom, will - now be at the top, covering the paste like thatch upon a roof. Trim off - the edge, so as to look nicely. You may, if you choose, use a larger - quantity of vermicelli. The yellow sort will be best for this purpose. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BIRDS PREPARED FOR LARDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut a thin slice of fresh veal, and fill the bird with it, adding a bit of - fat bacon. Tie a string round the body to keep in the stuffing, and roast - the bird head downward. The gravy of the meat will diffuse a pleasant - taste all through the bird. - </p> - <p> - After being well roasted, let it get cold, and then lard it all over the - breast with lardons or regular slips of fat bacon, put in with a larding - needle, and left standing in rows. It is more easy to lard poultry or game - when cold, rather than warm. Lardons should be set very close and evenly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BIRD DUMPLINGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large tender beef steak, trim off all the fat, and remove the bone. - Make a large sheet of nice suet paste. Lay the beef steak upon it, - seasoned with pepper and a very little salt. In the centre of the meat<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[306]</a></span> place - either a partridge, a quail, a plover, or any nice game, or three or four - reed-birds—season with powdered mace and nutmeg. Add some bits of - excellent fresh butter, dredged with flour. Inclose the birds completely - in the steak, so that the game flavor may pervade the whole. Close the - crust over all, so as to form a large dumpling. Tie it in a cloth. Put it - into a pot of fast-boiling water, and boil it well, turning it several - times with a fork. Dish it very hot. - </p> - <p> - If game is not convenient, a fine tame fat pigeon may be substituted. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO ROAST WOODCOCKS OR SNIPES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Be very careful in plucking these to pull out the feathers as carefully - and handle them as lightly as possible; for the skin is very easily torn - or broken. Do not draw them, for epicures have decided, that the trail, - (as they call the intestines,) is the most delicious part of the bird, and - should by all means be saved for eating. Having wiped the outside - carefully with a soft cloth, truss them with the head under the wing, and - the bill laid along upon the breast. Keep the legs bent from the knees, - retaining that posture by means of a splinter skewer. Suspend the birds to - a bird-spit, with their feet downward. Melt some fresh butter in the - dripping-pan, and baste them with it, having first dredged the birds with - flour. Before the trail begins to drop, (which it will do as soon as they - are well heated,) lay a thick round of very nice<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[307]</a></span> toast, (with the crust - pared off,) buttered on both sides, and placed in the dripping-pan - beneath, so as to catch the trail as it falls; allowing a slice of toast - to each bird, with the trail spread equally over it. Continue the basting, - letting the butter fall back from them into the basting spoon. When the - birds are done, which will be in less than half an hour at a brisk fire—carefully - transfer the toasts to a very hot dish; place the birds upon them, and - pour some gravy round the toast. - </p> - <p> - Snipes require less cooking than woodcocks. These birds are very - fashionable; but we do not think either of them superlative. They seldom - appear except at supper parties. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLOVERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a very nice bird, with a peculiar and pleasant flavor. They abound - near our large bays and estuaries in the vicinity of the ocean. There are - two sorts, the green plover and the gray. Roast them plain; basting them - only with butter. Or fill them with a forcemeat, and go entirely over the - outside, first with beaten egg, and then roll each plover in finely grated - bread-crumbs. - </p> - <p> - If very fat, stew them plain in butter rolled in flour. Then serve them up - in their own gravy, enriched with a beaten egg. They make a nice breakfast - dish, either roasted or stewed. And are excellent in pies.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - REED BIRDS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Reed birds and rice birds are the same. They are very small, (only a - mouthful on each side of the breast,) but very delicious, and <i>immensely - fat</i> in the summer and autumn. They are brought to market with a lump - of fat skewered on the outside, and are sold by the dozen strung on a - stick like cherries. - </p> - <p> - To cook them, roast them on a bird-spit, basting with their own fat, as it - drips. A nice way for retaining the whole flavor is to tie each bird - closely in a vine leaf, and bake them in a dutch oven. Or wrap them in - double vine leaves, and roast them in the ashes of a wood fire. Remove the - vine leaves before the birds are dished. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROASTED PIGEONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine fat <i>tame</i> pigeons, and clean and truss them nicely. Four - pigeons, at least, are requisite to make a dish. Prepare a stuffing or - forcemeat of finely minced veal, and an equal quantity of cold-boiled ham, - seasoned with powdered mace and a very little cayenne. Also, two slices of - bread and butter soaked in as much milk as they will absorb. Fill their - bodies with this, (tying a string round to keep it in,) and roast the - pigeons till thoroughly done; basting with fresh butter or lard. - </p> - <p> - Or you may stuff the pigeons with chopped mushrooms, seasoned with a - little cayenne, and putting into each a piece of fresh butter rolled in - flour. - </p> - <p> - Or you may stuff them with sweet potatos,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[309]</a></span> boiled well, and mashed - with plenty of fresh butter. Or with chestnuts, boiled, peeled, and mashed - with butter. - </p> - <p> - Wild pigeons are generally too poor to roast. In places where they abound, - it has been found very profitable to catch them in nets, clip their wings, - and put them into inclosures, feeding them well with corn so as to make - them fat. They will then bring as high a price as tame pigeons. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="SAUCES" id="SAUCES"></a>SAUCES. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - MELTED BUTTER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - <i>For Sauces.</i>—This is frequently called Drawn Butter. For this - purpose none should be used but fresh butter of the very best quality. It - is usually sent to table with boiled fish and boiled poultry. Also, with - boiled mutton, lamb, and veal. It is never served up with any thing - roasted, fried or broiled. Numerous sauces are made with melted butter. If - mixed with too much flour and water, and not enough of butter, it will be - very poor, particularly if the water is in too large proportions. To - prepare it properly, allow a quarter of a pound of nice butter, to a - heaped table-spoonful of flour. Mix the butter and flour thoroughly, <i>before</i> - it goes on the fire. Then add to it four large table-spoonfuls of milk, or - hot water, well mixed in. Hold it over the fire in a small sauce-pan, kept - for the purpose. One<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[310]</a></span> - lined with what is called porcelain or enamel is best. Take care there is - no blaze where the sauce-pan is held. Cover it, and shake it over the fire - till it boils. Then having skimmed it, add three or four hard-boiled eggs - chopped small, and give it one more boil up; or season it with any other - ingredient with which you wish to distinguish the sauce. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CLARIFIED BUTTER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For this purpose use none but the very best fresh butter, such as is made - in summer, when the cows are well pastured. Cut up the butter, put it into - an enameled or porcelain stew-pan, and melt it gently over a clear and - moderate fire. When it simmers, skim it thoroughly, draw it from the fire, - and let it stand five minutes, that the milk or sediment may sink to the - bottom. Then pour it clear from the sediment through a muslin strainer, or - a fine clean hair sieve. Transfer to jars with close covers, and keep them - in a cool dry place. If well prepared, and originally very good, this - butter will answer for sauces, stews, &c., and continue good a long - time. In France, where they do not <i>salt</i> any butter, large - quantities are melted in this way for winter use. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COLORING FOR SAUCES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - <i>For Pink Sauce.</i> Take a few chips of red alkanet root, (to be had at - the druggist's.) Pick it clean, and tie it in a very thin muslin bag. Put - the alkanet into the mixture, and let it infuse in the boiling drawn but<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[311]</a></span>ter. It - will communicate a beautiful pink color, which you may heighten, by - pressing the bag a little. When done, take out the bag, and stir the - alkanet color evenly through the sauce. The alkanet has no taste, and is - very cheap. Beet juice will color a tolerable red. - </p> - <p> - <i>For Green Sauce.</i>—Pound some fresh spinach leaves, till you - extract a tea-cup or more of the clear green juice. Stir it into the - melted butter while boiling. - </p> - <p> - <i>For Yellow Sauce.</i>—Tie up a very little turmeric powder in a - muslin bag. Let it boil in the butter. When done, take it out of the - sauce-pan, and stir the yellow coloring evenly through the sauce. - </p> - <p> - <i>For White Sauce.</i>—Make this with cream instead of milk. - </p> - <p> - <i>For Brown Sauce.</i>—Stir in plenty of French mustard. - </p> - <p> - <i>For Wine Sauce.</i>—Stir in, just before you take the sauce from - the fire, a large wine-glass or more of <i>very good</i> white wine, and - grate in half a large nutmeg, adding the grated yellow rind, and the juice - of a lemon. The wine must be of excellent quality, otherwise it will give - a bad taste to the sauce. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WHITE THICKENING— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>French Roux.</i>)—Cut up a quarter of a pound of the best fresh - butter, and put it into a well tinned or enameled sauce-pan. Set it over a - moderate fire, and melt it slowly, shaking it round frequently, and taking - care to skim it well. When no more scum appears<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[312]</a></span> on the surface, let it - settle a few minutes; then pour it off from the sediment at the bottom. - Wash the sauce-pan or get another clean one. Return the melted butter to - it, and set it again over the fire. Then dredge in gradually sufficient - sifted flour to make it very thick and smooth, stirring it well after each - addition of flour. Do not allow it to brown in the slightest degree, but - keep it perfectly white to the last; simmering, but not actually boiling, - and take care that there is no smoke about the fire. - </p> - <p> - To thicken white sauces, or soups, stir in a table-spoonful or two of this - roux, pronounced <i>roo</i>. In French cooking it passes for cream. - </p> - <p> - Browned thickening is made in the same manner; but with butter and browned - flour, and is used for brown soups and gravies. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROWNING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is to enrich the taste and improve the color of gravies, stews, and - soups. Mix a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar with two ounces of - fine fresh butter; and, having stirred them well together, put them into a - sauce-pan over the fire, and simmer till it begins to froth; then diminish - the heat a little. When its color becomes a fine dark brown, add two - glasses of port wine, and three or four blades of mace, powdered. When it - comes to a boil, take it off, and stir it into whatever you intend to - color. - </p> - <p> - Another browning is mushroom catchup, or walnut catchup. They communicate - a slightly acid taste. So also does French mustard. Stir it in<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[313]</a></span> at the - last. Its tarragon flavor is very generally liked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROWNED FLOUR.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift some fine flour, spread it on a large dish, or clean tin-pan. Place - it before the fire, so as to brown but not to scorch or burn. It will - color first at the edges; therefore watch it, and keep it evenly mixed - with the white flour from the centre. When all is nicely browned, set it - to cool, and then put it away for use in a large clean bottle or jar, well - corked. Flour may be browned in an oven, after baking is over, taking care - to stir it well.—Have two dredging boxes. One for browned flour and - one for white. It is convenient also to have dredging-boxes for powdered - herbs. The cost of these boxes is very trifling, and it saves time and - trouble to have things ready when wanted. A small sieve for powdered white - sugar is indispensable. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LOBSTER SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This sauce is for fresh salmon or turbot, or sheep's-head fish. Also for - salmon-trout, blue-fish, or the lake white-fish. - </p> - <p> - Put a large hen lobster into a hard-boiling pot of highly-salted water, - that the animal may die immediately. Continue the boiling with a steady - heat, and in about three quarters, or an hour, the lobster will be done. - When cold, extract all the meat from the shell, and cut it into small - bits. Pound the coral, or red substance, in a marble mor<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[314]</a></span>tar, with - some fresh butter, or plenty of salad oil; and a little cayenne. Add the - coral to the cut-up lobster, and put the whole into a stew-pan, with some - powdered mace and nutmeg, and a large table-spoonful of sweet oil. Divide - into four bits a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, each bit rolled in - flour. If your butter is not fresh and very good, omit it entirely and - substitute a larger quantity of oil. As bad butter spoils every thing, - never on any account, use it. Set the sauce-pan over the fire, and let it - boil up once. Then take it off, and while very hot, stir in the beaten - yolks of two eggs. - </p> - <p> - Crab sauce is made in the same manner. Prawn sauce also. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SHRIMP SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Shrimps are the smallest shell-fish of the lobster species. Put them into - salted boiling water. They are done when they have turned entirely red. - When cold, pull off the heads, and peel off the shells from the bodies; or - <i>squeeze</i> out the meat with your fingers. Have ready some nice drawn - butter, and thicken it with the shrimps, either chopped or whole. Season - the sauce with mace or nutmeg powdered, and give it one boil up. Shrimp - sauce is eaten with salmon and other fine fish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED SHRIMPS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having boiled, in salted water, three quarts or more of shrimps, and taken - them from the shells, boil two quarts of the<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[315]</a></span> best cider vinegar, and - season it well with blades of mace and pepper-corns, and pour it hot on - the shrimps, in a stone jar. Cork the jar, and seal the cork with the - usual red cement for pickle jars: a mixture of one-third beeswax with - two-thirds powdered rosin, and some fine brickdust, all melted together. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OYSTER SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pint of the liquor of <i>fresh</i> oysters, and strain it into a - sauce-pan. If your oysters are salt, and you can get no others, boil a - pint of milk instead of the oyster liquor, seasoning with powdered nutmeg - and mace, and enriching it with fresh butter dredged with flour. When it - has come to a boil, put in the oysters (having removed from each the - gristle, or hard part.) Let them simmer, but take them from the fire - without letting them come to a boil, which will shrivel them, and render - them tough and tasteless. A new fashion is to season oyster sauce with the - grated yellow rind and juice of a fresh lemon. Others stir in a glass of - sherry or Madeira. If you use wine or lemon, you must not make the sauce - with milk, as it will curdle. Use in this case the oyster liquor, if it is - fresh, thickened well with finely grated bread-crumbs. The small, - highly-flavored oysters, abounding on the coast of New England, are - excellent for sauce, or soups. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CLAM SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make this of half milk and half clam liquor, seasoned with whole mace, and<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[316]</a></span> whole - pepper. Use only the soft part of the clams, cut up small, and simmer them - from the beginning; adding bits of butter dredged all over with flour - Clams require longer cooking than oysters. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EGG SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil four eggs from eight to twelve minutes. Then lay them in a pan of - fresh water, and let them remain till quite cold. Peel off the shells, and - take out the eggs. Chop the yolks and whites separately; mix them, - lightly, into half a pint of melted fresh butter, made in the proportion - of a quarter of a pound of butter to two large table-spoonfuls of flour, - and four of milk and hot water. Add some powdered mace, or nutmeg. Egg - sauce is eaten with boiled fish and poultry. - </p> - <p> - Instead of milk or water, you can use for melted butter, some of the water - in which chicken or turkey was boiled, or some veal gravy. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CELERY SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Split and cut up into short slips a bunch of celery, having taken off the - green leaves from the tops. The celery must have been well washed, and - laid an hour in cold water. Take a pint of milk, and cut up in it a - quarter of a pound of fresh butter that has been well dredged with flour. - Set it over the fire in a sauce-pan, and add the celery gradually; also - three or four blades of mace broken up. Boil all slowly together, till the - celery is quite soft and tender, but not dissolved. The green tops of the - celery, (strewed in, when it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_317" - id="Page_317">[317]</a></span> begins to simmer,) will improve the flavor. - Celery sauce is served up with boiled turkey, boiled fowls, and with any - sort of fresh fish, boiled or fried. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MINT SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is only used for roast lamb in the spring. When the lambs are grown - into sheep, the mint is too old for sauce. But they harmonize very - pleasantly when both are young. - </p> - <p> - Take a large bunch of fine fresh green mint, that has been washed well. - Strip the leaves from the stems, and mince them small. Put it into a pint - bowl, and mix with it gradually some of the best cider vinegar. This sauce - must not be the least liquid, but as thick as horse-radish sauce or - thicker. Make it very sweet, with the best brown sugar. Mix it well, and - transfer to a small tureen, or a little deep dish with a tea-spoon in it. - Serve it up always with roast lamb, putting a tea-spoonful on the rim of - your plate. - </p> - <p> - A quart or more of mint sauce, made as above, but with a larger proportion - of sugar and vinegar, will keep very well for several weeks, in a jar well - corked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HORSE-RADISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash clean some roots of horse-radish, wipe them dry, and scrape off the - outside. Then grate the sticks of horse-radish with a large grater. Put - some of the grated horse-radish into a large saucer, or small deep plate, - and moisten it with good cider vinegar, but do not put so much<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[318]</a></span> vinegar - as will render it liquid. Send it to table with roast beef or mutton. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready some very rich good melted or drawn butter, made with milk and - flavored with nutmeg. Thicken it with plenty of ready-boiled cauliflower, - cut into little sprigs or blossoms. Give it one boil up after the - cauliflower is in, and send it to table with any sort of boiled poultry. - It will be found very nice. For a boiled turkey it is far superior to - celery sauce, and well suited to dinner company. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROCCOLI SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make some nice drawn butter with milk. Flavor it with powdered mace. Pound - some spinach in a mortar to extract the juice. Strain the spinach juice, - and stir a small tea-cupful into the butter to give it a fine green color. - Have ready some well-boiled broccoli. Divide one or two heads of the - broccoli into tufts or sprigs. Put them into the melted butter, and when - it comes to a boil, take it off, and transfer it to a sauce-boat. Serve it - up with boiled poultry or fresh fish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PARSLEY SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Strip from the stalks the leaves of some fresh green parsley; allow plenty - of it. Chop it slightly; and while the drawn butter is hot, stir into it - the parsley, till the butter looks very green. Serve it up with boiled<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[319]</a></span> fowls, - rabbits, or boiled fish. The appearance of parsley sauce will be much - improved by stirring in some spinach juice. The whole will be then a fine - green. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CRIMPED PARSLEY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick the small sprigs of parsley from the large stalks. Wash it, and then - throw it into clean cold water. After the meat or fish that it is to - accompany has been fried and taken out of the pan, give the fat that - remains a boil up, and lay the parsley into it. It will crimp and still - continue green, if not kept frying too long. Take it out, drain it, and - place it before the fire a few minutes, to dry it from the fat. Dish it - laid on the top of the fish or steaks. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FENNEL SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The fennel should be young and fresh. Take a large handful, or more, and - having washed it clean, strip the leaves from the stems, and boil it till - quite tender. Put it into a sieve, and press the water well from it. Mince - it very small, and stir it into drawn butter. - </p> - <p> - It is served up with boiled fish. - </p> - <p> - Instead of melted butter, you may put the fennel into veal gravy, - thickened with butter dredged with flour. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SAGE AND ONION SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a bunch of fresh sage leaves. Wash and drain them. Pick them from the - stems, and put them to boil in a small sauce-pan, with just water enough - to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[320]</a></span> - cover them. Boil them fast about ten minutes. Take them out, and press - them in a sieve to drain them dry. Then mince or chop them small. Have - ready two onions, boiled tender in another sauce-pan; chop them also, and - mix them well with the minced sage. While warm, mix in a small bit of nice - butter—season with pepper. Put this sauce into a little tureen, and - serve it up with roast goose, roast duck, or roast pork, that has been - stuffed with potato, bread, or other stuffing. The sage and onion sauce is - for those who prefer their flavor to any other seasoning for those dishes. - </p> - <p> - This sauce will be greatly improved if moistened with some of the gravy of - the duck or goose. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE ONION SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Peel some nice mild onions, and boil them in plenty of milk, skimming them - well. When done, take them out of the milk, (saving it,) and slice them - very thin, cutting the slices across, so as to make the pieces of onion - very small. Return them to the sauce-pan of milk, (adding some fresh - butter dredged with flour;) season them with powdered mace or nutmeg, and - give the onions another boil, till they are soft enough to mash, and to - thicken the milk all through. Eat this sauce with steaks, cutlets, - rabbits, or chickens.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[321]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLAIN ONION SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Peel some very small onions, and boil them whole in milk, (seasoned - slightly with pepper and salt,) and put in some bits of butter rolled in - flour. Let them boil till tender all through, but not till they loose - their shape. Eat them with any sort of boiled meat. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - NASTURTION SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is eaten with boiled mutton; is superior to caper sauce, and costs - almost nothing, if you have nasturtions in your garden. Gather the green - seeds as soon as they are full grown, and throw them (without the stems) - into a jar of cider vinegar. They require no cooking, but keep a muslin - bag of spice in the jar, (mace and nutmeg broken small, and a little piece - of root ginger.) To use them for sauce, make some nice drawn butter, and - as it simmers throw in plenty of nasturtions from the jar. The seeds, when - gathered, should be full grown, but by no means hard; and the color a fine - green. If there is the slightest brown tinge, the nasturtion seeds are too - old, and should be kept for planting. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUSHROOM SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready some excellent drawn butter, and thicken it with small button - mushrooms that have been pickled. Or, take freshly-gathered mushrooms of - good size, rub off the outer skin with a clean flannel, and cut off the - stems close to the flaps. Wash the mushrooms in a cullender. Have ready - some bits of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[322]</a></span> - fresh butter dredged all over with flour. Lay them among the mushrooms, - (which, if very large, should be quartered,) and put them into a stew-pan. - Cover the pan, and let them stew till the mushrooms are all tender. When - you take off the lid to try them, replace it immediately, keeping in as - much of the aroma as possible. If fresh, they will yield a great deal of - juice. When done, transfer them to a sauce-tureen, and serve them up with - any nice dish of meat or poultry. - </p> - <p> - The best mushrooms are found in pure open air or rather high ground, and - where there is no swamp or woodland. On the upper side of their top they - are not white, but of a pale grayish tint; the under side is invariably - light red, pinkish, or pale salmon color, which in a few hours, or after - being gathered, turns brown. The false mushrooms are poisonous. They are - entirely white above and below. The fungi that grow in forests or marshes - can never be mistaken for real mushrooms. They are of various colors, - chiefly bright yellow and red, and originate in foul air. By boiling a - silver tea-spoon with your mushrooms, you may test their goodness. If the - silver turns black, throw the mushrooms away. An onion will also blacken - from the same cause. Mushrooms should be cooked as soon as possible. If - kept two or three days, worms will be found in them. Never give mushrooms - to children. Even in their best state they are not wholesome. The taste - for mushrooms is an acquired one, and it is best not to acquire it.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[323]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TOMATO SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Scald some large ripe tomatos, to make them peel easily. Then quarter - them, and press them through a sieve to divest them of their seeds. Put - the juice into a stew-pan, adding some bits of fresh butter dredged with - flour; add finely grated bread-crumbs, and season with a little pepper, - and, if liked, a little onion boiled and minced. Set the pan over a - moderate fire, and let the tomatos simmer slowly till it comes to a boil. - Continue the boiling ten minutes longer. Serve it up in a sauce-tureen. It - will be mellowed and improved by stirring in (as soon as it comes to a - boil) a table-spoonful or a lump of white sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TARRAGON SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put into a sauce-pan a large half pint of any nice gravy that is at hand. - After it has boiled five minutes, have ready a handful of fresh green - tarragon leaves, minced, and moistened with plenty of cider vinegar. Add - this to the gravy, and let it simmer five minutes. Then take it out, and - serve it up with any kind of boiled poultry. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO MAKE GRAVY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two pounds of the lean of veal, or of very nice beef. Cut it into - small bits, and lay it in a sauce-pan with only as much water as will - cover it. Stew it slowly, (skimming it well) till the meat is all rags. - Then strain the gravy, and thicken it with some bits of fresh butter - dredged all over with browned flour,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[324]</a></span> and give it another simmer. - You may flavor it with any seasoning you like. - </p> - <p> - For made gravies, you can use any small pieces of fresh meat that has - never been cooked, and the feet of calves and pigs. Boil in it also such - vegetables as you like, cut small. Strain out every thing before it goes - to table. For gravies, use nothing that has been cooked before. They will - not add to its goodness, but only render it flat and washy. - </p> - <p> - White gravy is made with fresh veal boiled in milk; and after straining, - thickened arrow-root, or rice flour, mixed with fresh butter, if real - cream cannot be obtained. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUSHROOM CATCHUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Let the mushrooms be large and freshly-gathered, for they soon become - worm-eaten if not speedily salted. They should be well examined. Cut off - the stalks of four quarts of nice mushrooms. Put the flaps into a deep - earthen pan, and break them up with your hands. Strew among them half a - pound of salt, reserving the largest portion of it for the top. Let them - stand for three days, stirring them gently every morning. The fourth day, - put them into a sieve, and draw off the liquor without pressing the - mushrooms. When all the liquor has drained through, measure it, allowing - to each quart a tea-spoon of cayenne, a dozen blades of mace, and a nutmeg - broken up. Put the whole into a porcelain kettle, and boil it slowly till - re<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[325]</a></span>duced - one half. Then pour it into a clean white-ware pitcher, cover it with a - folded napkin, and keep it in a cool dry place till next day. Then, - through a funnel, pour it gently from the sediment into small bottles. - Finish with a tea-spoonful of sweet oil on the top of each. Cork the - bottles tightly, and seal the corks. - </p> - <p> - The next time you make catchup, proceed as above with the new mushrooms, - and other ingredients; and, when it is done, strain it, and put it into a - clean kettle. Then add to it a quart of <i>last year's</i> mushroom - catchup, and boil it a quarter of an hour. Then bottle it as above. - </p> - <p> - This double catchup is very fine. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WALNUT CATCHUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two hundred walnuts or butter-nuts, while the green shell is still so - soft that you can pierce it with the head of a pin. Bruise them to small - pieces, in a marble mortar. Transfer them to a broad stone-ware pan, and - stew among them six handfuls of salt. Stir them three times a day, for ten - days or two weeks. Then squeeze and strain them through a cloth, pressing - them very dry, till no more juice comes out. Boil up the liquor with two - quarts of cider vinegar, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of whole - pepper, half an ounce of nutmegs broken up, and two roots of ginger cut - small, and half a dozen shalots or small onions, peeled and cut up, and a - large bunch of sweet herbs. Let the whole boil for half an hour. Then pour - off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[326]</a></span> - the liquor into a large pitcher, leaving out the bunch of sweet herbs. - Pour off the liquor (through a funnel,) into small bottles, having first - put into the bottom of each bottle a portion of the spice. Fill the bottle - up to the top with the catchup, finishing with a tea-spoonful of salad - oil, which will greatly assist in keeping the catchup good. Cork the - bottles very closely, and seal the corks. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TOMATO CATCHUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a peck of large ripe tomatos. In the middle States they are in - perfection the last of August. Late in the autumn they are comparatively - insipid and watery. Cut a slit down the side of every tomato. Put them - into a large preserving kettle without any water. Their own juice is - sufficient. On no account boil tomatos in brass or copper, their acid - acting on those metals produces verdigris, and renders them poisonous. - Boil them till they are quite soft, and easily mashed, stirring them up - frequently from the bottom. Press and mash them through a hair sieve, till - all the pulp has run out into the pan below, leaving in the sieve only the - skins and seeds. Season the liquid with a little salt, some cayenne, and - plenty of powdered nutmeg and mace. Mix it well, and when cold put up the - catchup in small jars, the covers pasted all round with bands of white - paper. This catchup, when done, should be very thick and smooth.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[327]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LEMON CATCHUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take six fine large ripe lemons, and roll them under your hand to increase - the quantity of juice. Grate off all the yellow rind, and squeeze the - juice into a pitcher, removing all the seeds. Prepare two ounces of finely - scraped horse-radish, and two ounces of minced shalots, or very small - onions. Put them into a pint of boiling vinegar, in which half an ounce of - bruised ginger and a quarter of an ounce of mace have been simmered for - five minutes. Add to this the lemon-juice and the grated peel, and two - grated nutmegs. Boil all together for half an hour, and then transfer it - with all the ingredients to a glass jar with a lid. Paste a band of strong - white paper round the lower part of the lid. Set it in a dry cool place, - and leave it undisturbed for three months. Then, through a funnel, pour - off the liquid into small bottles, putting a tea-spoonful of salad oil at - the top of each. Cork and seal them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CUCUMBER CATCHUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For a small quantity of this catchup, take twelve fine full-grown - cucumbers, and lay them an hour in cold water. Then pare them, and grate - them down into a deep dish. Grate also two small onions, and mix them with - the grated cucumber. Season the mixture to your taste with pepper, salt, - and vinegar, making it of the consistence of very thick marmalade or jam. - When thoroughly amalgamated, transfer it to a glass jar. Cover it closely, - tying over it a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[328]</a></span> - piece of bladder, so as to render it perfectly air-tight. - </p> - <p> - It will be found very nice, (when fresh cucumbers are not in season,) to - eat with beef or mutton. And if properly made, and securely covered, will - keep well. It should be grated very fine, and the vinegar must be of very - excellent quality—real cider vinegar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAMP CATCHUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pint or quart of strong ale or porter, and a pint of white wine; - half a dozen shalots, or very small onions, peeled and minced; half an - ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, broken up; and two large roots or - races of ginger, sliced. Put all together, over a moderate fire, into a - porcelain-lined kettle, and boil it slowly till one-third of the liquid is - wasted. Next day transfer it to small bottles, putting a portion of the - seasoning in the bottom of each, and filling them to the top with the - liquid. Finish with a tea-spoonful of salad oil at the top. Cork the - bottles with good corks, and seal them. In a dry place this catchup will - keep for years. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TARRAGON VINEGAR.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The fresh leaves of the tarragon plant are in perfection in July and - August, and impart a new and pleasant taste to soups, hashes, gravies, - &c. To use it fresh, wash a bunch of tarragon in cold water. - Afterwards strip off the green leaves, chop or mince them, and boil a - tea-spoonful or more in the dish you intend<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[329]</a></span> to flavor. The best way of - keeping tarragon is to strip off as many fresh leaves as will half fill a - glass jar that holds a quart. Pour on as much <i>real</i> cider vinegar as - will fill up the jar. Cover it closely, and let the tarragon infuse in it - for a week, shaking the jar every day. Then pour off that vinegar - carefully, and throw away the tarragon leaves that have been steeping in - it. Wash that jar, or take another clean one, put into it the same - quantity of fresh tarragon leaves, and fill up with the same vinegar in - which you have infused the first supply. Let the second leaves remain in - the jar of vinegar. A tarragon bush is well worth planting; even in a - small city garden. - </p> - <p> - Tarragon is the chief ingredient of French mustard. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE FRENCH MUSTARD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a jill or two large wine-glasses of tarragon vinegar, (strained from - the leaves,) and mix with it an equal quantity of salad oil, stirring them - well together. Pound in a mortar, two ounces of mustard seed till it - becomes a fine smooth powder, and mix it thoroughly. Add to it one clove - of garlic (not more) peeled, minced and pounded. Make the mixture in a - deep white-ware dish. If the mustard affects your eyes, put on glasses - till you have finished the mixture. When done, put it up in white bottles, - or gallipots. Cork them tightly, and seal the corks. Send it to table in - those bottles. - </p> - <p> - This mustard is far superior to any other, the tarragon imparting a - peculiar and pleasant flavor.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" - id="Page_330">[330]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - It is excellent to eat with any sort of roast meat, particularly beef or - mutton, and an improvement to almost all plain sauces, stews, soups, &c. - </p> - <p> - French mustard is to be purchased very good, at all the best grocery - stores. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SAUCE ROBERT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Peel five large onions, and parboil them to take off some of the strength. - Cut them into small dice, and put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a - pound of fresh butter, divided into four, and dredged with flour. When - they are well browned, pour on them half a pint of beef or veal gravy, and - let it simmer for a quarter of an hour. Season it slightly with cayenne. - Just before it goes to table, stir in a table-spoonful of French mustard. - </p> - <p> - This is a good sauce for any sort of roast meat, or poultry. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GREEN MAYONNAISE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a fine accompaniment to cold poultry, which must be cut into small - pieces as for chicken salad, using only the white meat. To begin the - mayonnaise. Put into a shallow pan the yolks only of three fresh eggs, - having strained out the specks. Having beaten them till light and thick, - add, by degrees, a half pint of salad oil, stirring it in gradually, so - that no oil whatever is to be seen on the surface. Then add two - table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Next a few drops of shalot vinegar, - or a <i>very small</i> onion minced as finely as possible. If you have at - hand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[331]</a></span> - any clear meat gravy (for instance, veal,) stir in two or three - table-spoonsful. Add the grated yellow rind, and the juice of a lemon. - Pound as much spinach as will yield a small tea-cupful of green juice. - Give it a short boil up, to take off the rawness, and mix it with the - mayonnaise. When cool, pour it over the dish of cold poultry. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EPICUREAN SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pound in a mortar five or six anchovies; a heaped table-spoonful of minced - tarragon leaves; a shalot, or very small onion, two or three pickled - gherkins, finely minced; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, a quarter of - a pound of fresh butter, and a large table-spoonful of French mustard. If - you have no good butter, mix a sufficient portion of olive oil to moisten - it well. Let the whole be thoroughly mixed. Put it into a bowl, and set it - on ice till wanted. Then mould it into pats of equal size. Arrange them on - small glass or china plates, and send them to table for dinner company, to - eat with the cheese. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EAST INDIA SAUCE FOR FISH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mix well together a jill of India soy; a jill of chili vinegar; half a - pint of walnut catchup, and a pint of mushroom-catchup. Shake the whole - hard, and transfer it to small green bottles, putting a tea-spoonful of - sweet oil at the top of each, and keep the sauce in a cool dry place. If - you have not a fish castor, bring the store sauces to table in the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[332]</a></span> small - bottles they are kept in. When eating fish, mix a little of this with the - melted butter on your plate. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CURRY POWDER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Curry powder originates in India, where it is much used as a peculiar - flavoring for soups, stews, and hashes. With curry dishes, boiled rice is - always served up, not only in a separate dish, but also heaped round the - stew in a thick even border. To make curry powder, pound in a marble - mortar three ounces of turmeric, three ounces of coriander seed, and a - quarter of an ounce of cayenne; one ounce of mustard, one ounce of - cardamoms, a half ounce of cummin seed, and half an ounce of mace. Let all - these ingredients be thoroughly mixed in the mortar, and then sift it - through a fine sieve, dry it for an hour before the fire, and put it into - clean bottles, securing the corks well. Use from two to three - table-spoonfuls at a time, in proportion to the size of the dish you - intend to curry. - </p> - <p> - It may be mixed into the gravy of any of the preceding receipts for stews. - Two ounces of finely grated cocoa-nut is a pleasant improvement to curried - dishes, and is universally liked. - </p> - <p> - The curry powder you buy is frequently much adulterated with inferior - articles. The best curry powder imported from India is of a dark green - color, and not yellow or red. It has among its ingredients, tamarinds, <i>not</i> - preserved, as we always get them—but raw in the shell. These - tamarinds<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[333]</a></span> - impart a pleasant acid to the mixture. For want of them use a lemon. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MADRAS CURRY POWDER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pound separately, and sift, six ounces of coriander seed, three of - turmeric, one of black pepper, two of cummin, one of fennel seed, and half - an ounce of cayenne. Mix all together, put them into a glass jar or - bottle, and seal the cover. - </p> - <p> - With less turmeric, you may use ginger or sassafras. - </p> - <p> - Curry powder may be added to any stew of meat, poultry, or game. Boiled - rice must always accompany a dish of curry. - </p> - <p> - The ingredients indispensable to all curries (and you may make a curry of - any nice meat, or poultry, or even of oysters) is a very pungent powder, - prepared for the purpose with turmeric. Also onions and boiled rice. In - India there is always something acid in the mixture, as lemons, sour apple - juice, or green tamarinds. The turmeric has a peculiar flavor of its own. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STORE SAUCES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The celebrated English sauces, for fish and game, Harvey's sauce, (which - is the best,) Quin's, Reading's, Kitchener's, Soyer's, &c., are all - very good, and keep well, if genuine. They are imported in small sealed - bottles, and are to be had of all the best grocers. To make them at home, - is so troublesome and expensive, that it is<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[334]</a></span> better to buy them. They - are, however, very nice, and are generally introduced at dinner parties; a - little being mixed on your plate with the melted butter. If you have no - fish castors, bring these sauces to table in their own bottles, to be - carried round by a servant. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE PINK SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pint of excellent port wine, the juice and grated yellow rinds of - four large lemons, two dozen blades of mace and a large nutmeg, broken up; - with a quarter of an ounce of prepared cochineal, or a small tea-spoonful - of alkanet chips. Add a table-spoonful of fresh salad oil. Mix the whole - well in a wide-mouthed glass jar with a lid. Let the ingredients infuse a - fortnight; stirring it several times a day. Then strain it, pour it - through a funnel into small bottles, and seal the corks. It will give a - fine pink color to drawn butter. Eat it with any sort of fish or game. - </p> - <p> - Alkanet produces a much finer color than cochineal, but it must unite with - some substance of an oily nature to give out its color to advantage. It is - very cheap, and very beautiful, and to be had at the druggist's. Infuse it - tied in a thin muslin bag. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WINE SAUCE FOR VENISON OR GAME.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the half of a sixpenny loaf of bread. Cut off all the crust. Put the - crumb (or soft part) into a bowl, and pour on sufficient good port wine to - steep it. Soak the bread in the wine till dissolved.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[335]</a></span> Then add two heaped - table-spoonsful of fresh butter, and two heaped spoonsful of sugar; - seasoning with powdered mace and nutmeg, and the grated yellow rind and - juice of a lemon. Beat all together till very smooth. Put it into a - sauce-pan, and give it one boil up; taking it off as soon as it comes to a - boil. Send it to table hot. It is a fine company sauce for venison, or - hare, or any sort of game. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE PUDDING SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large half-pint cup of the best fresh butter, and the same quantity - of powdered loaf-sugar. Put them together in an earthen pan, and beat them - to a light thick cream. Then mix a jill or wine-glass of boiling water, - and a large wine-glass of the best brandy, with the grated yellow rind and - juice of a large lemon or orange; and a small nutmeg, grated. Mix these - ingredients, gradually, with the beaten butter and sugar; and transfer the - sauce to a small tureen, putting a spoon or ladle into it. - </p> - <p> - If designed for sauce to a plum-pudding or any other large one, you will - require a pint of butter, a pint of sugar, half a pint of boiling water - with half a pint of brandy, two lemons or oranges, and a <i>large</i> - nutmeg, or two small ones. Divide the sauce in two tureens. A boiled - pudding for company requires no finer sauce than this. - </p> - <p> - Where <i>real</i> cream is plenty, a bowl of it well sweetened with sugar, - and flavored with nutmeg, is nice for any boiled pudding. If you add wine - or lemon juice to cream sauce, previously mix the<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[336]</a></span> acid with the sugar, and - make it very sweet before you put them to the cream, lest it should - curdle. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VANILLA SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Split and break up a small stick of vanilla, and boil it in a very little - milk, till all the vanilla flavor is extracted. Then strain it through - very fine muslin, and stir it into the cream. Give it one boil up in a - small porcelain sauce-pan; and sweeten it well with white sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLAIN SAUCE FOR PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stir together (as in making pound cake) equal quantities of fresh butter - and white sugar. This is the usual proportion; but if you can stir or beat - it easily, try a little less butter, and a little more of the sugar. Grate - in some nutmeg, and the yellow rind of a fresh lemon, and send it to table - heaped on a small plate, with a tea-spoon near it.<a name="FNanchor_E" - id="FNanchor_E"></a><a href="#Footnote_E" class="fnanchor">[E]</a> - </p> - <p> - Many persons prefer, with plain puddings, cold butter on a butter plate, - and sugar from the sugar-bowl; mixing it for themselves on their own - plate. This is best for boiled fruit pudding or dumplings; and for egg or - batter puddings, molasses or syrup is very good; and costs but little.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[337]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CRANBERRY SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick the cranberries clean, seeing that no stems, sticks, or dead leaves - are left among them. Put them into a cullender, or sieve, and wash them - through two waters. Cook them in a porcelain-lined, or enameled stew-pan, - without any additional water. The water that remains about them after - washing is quite sufficient for stewing them properly. No stewed fruit - should be too thin or liquid. Keep a steady heat under the cranberries, - stirring them up from the bottom frequently: and when they are soft, mash - them with the back of the spoon. When they are quite shapeless, take them - off the fire, and while they are very hot, stir in, gradually, an ample - quantity of nice <i>brown</i> sugar. They require much sweetening. Season - them with nothing else. Their natural flavor is sufficient (if well - sweetened) and cannot be improved by spice, lemon, or any of the usual - condiments. Always buy the largest and ripest cranberries. The best things - are cheapest in the end. - </p> - <p> - In stewing any sort of fruit, do not add the sugar till the fruit is done, - and taken from the fire. If sweetened at the beginning, much of the - strength of the sugar evaporates in cooking; besides rendering the fruit - tough and hard, and retarding the progress of the stew. - </p> - <p> - In America, sweet sauce is eaten with any sort of roast meat. Send it to - table cold. For company, put it into a blanc-mange mould, and turn it out - in a shape, first dipping the mould, for a minute, in warm water to loosen - it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[338]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - APPLE SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Get fine juicy apples—bellflowers are the best for cooking. Sweet - apples cook very badly—becoming tough, dry and tasteless. Green - apples, if full grown, cook well, and have a pleasant acid. - </p> - <p> - For sauce, pare, core, and quarter or slice the apples. Wash the pieces in - a cullender, and put them to stew, with only water enough to wet them a - little. Apple stews that are thin and watery are disgraceful to the cook, - or to the cook's mistress. Let them stew till you can mash them easily all - through. Then take them off the fire, and sweeten them, adding the - seasoning while the apples are warm. Season with rose-water, lemon juice, - nutmeg; or with all these if for company. If you can get fresh lemon-peel, - cut it into very thin slips, and put it in to stew with the apples at - first. It is still better, and little more trouble, to grate the - lemon-peel. - </p> - <p> - Fruit for pies should be stewed in the same manner as for sauce, and not - sweetened till taken from the fire. Let the paste be baked empty in large - deep plates, and when cool, filled to the brim with stewed fruit. A pie, - (as we have seen them,) only half or one third full, looks very meanly—and - tastes so. - </p> - <p> - All these fruit-sauces are good receipts for stewing fruit for pies or any - other purpose. - </p> - <p> - We advise all families to have, among their kitchen utensils, <i>bain - maries</i>, or double-kettles, putting the article to be stewed in the - inner kettle, and the boiling water in the outside one. They are to be had - of all sizes at the furnishing stores.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[339]</a></span> They are also excellent for - custards and boiled puddings. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED APPLE SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Core very nicely as many fine juicy apples as will fill a large - baking-pan. All coring of apples should be done with a tin cover. This you - can buy at a tinman's for a quarter dollar, and it is invaluable for the - purpose. After coring the apples, pare them smooth and evenly. Put a large - table-spoonful of cold water in the bottom of the baking-pan, and then put - in the apples first, filling, with fine brown sugar, the hole from whence - the core was taken out. To have them very nice, add some grated - lemon-peel, or some rose-water. Set the pan into an oven, (not too hot,) - close the oven, and bake till the apples are all broken and can be easily - mashed. This way of making apple sauce, by baking in a close oven, will be - found far superior to boiling or stewing them. They require no more water - than is barely sufficient to give them a start at the bottom. - </p> - <p> - The flavoring (sugar, lemon, or rose,) may be deferred till the apples are - baked, taken out of the oven and mashed. Then mix it in while hot. - </p> - <p> - Boiled apple sauce is usually spoiled with too much water, rendering it - the consistence of thin pap, weak, washy, and mean. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Get fine full-grown green gooseberries. Pick them over, and top and<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[340]</a></span> tail - them. Wash them in a cullender or sieve through two waters. Put them into - an enameled stew-pan, with only the water remaining on them after washing, - and no sugar till after they are stewed to a mash, and taken from the - fire. Then while hot, stir in brown sugar enough to make them very sweet. - Serve them up cold. For company, before they are sweetened, press them - through a sieve, using only the pulp. Then add the sugar; and mould the - whole in a form. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CURRANT SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine ripe currants, and strip them from the stems. Put them into a - pan, and mash them with a large spoon, or a wooden beetle. Stew them in - their own juice (no water,) and sweeten them when they are taken from the - fire. For company, press the fruit through a sieve before you add the - sugar, and shape it in a mould. - </p> - <p> - It will answer every purpose of regular currant jelly, to eat with game, - venison, &c. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RIPE PEACH SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take juicy freestone peaches; pare and stone them, and cut them up. Save - all the juice, and stew them in it. When quite soft, take them off the - fire, and sweeten them. The flavor will be much improved by stewing with - them a bunch of fresh peach leaves, to be taken out when the peaches are - done. Or, if you cannot readily obtain the leaves, a handful of the fresh<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[341]</a></span> peach - kernels, stewed with the fruit, (and to be taken out afterwards,) will - answer the purpose. - </p> - <p> - It is well, even in the sunny side of a city garden, to plant two peach - stones; so that when they grow into trees, you may have peach leaves at - hand for improving the flavor of custards, and other things. Unless the - trees are perfectly healthy, and the leaves green, do not use them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DRIED PEACH SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The richest and best dried peaches, are those that are dried with the - skins on. The skins (however thick,) entirely dissolve in cooking, and - become imperceptible when the fruit is well stewed. It is a great error to - pare peaches for drying. Apples <i>must</i> be pared, for the skin is - tougher than that of peaches, and does not dissolve in cooking. - </p> - <p> - To prepare dried peaches for stewing, pick them over carefully, throwing - away all the imperfect pieces. Wash them in two cold waters, and then put - them into a stew-pan, (<i>adding no water</i>,) and stew them till they - are quite soft, and shapeless, and mash easily and smoothly in the pan. - Sweeten them with plenty of brown sugar, as soon as they come off the - fire. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DRIED APPLE SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash the dried apples through a cullender, and put <i>a very little water</i> - with them in the stew-pan. Being rather insipid, they require some - additional flavor. Add cinna<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" - id="Page_342">[342]</a></span>mon, or other spice of any sort you like, - and the yellow rind of a fresh lemon or orange, pared very thin and cut - into slips. When these apples are well stewed and mashed, sweeten them. - </p> - <p> - We believe, that when dried peaches can be procured, few will buy dried - apples; they are so far inferior; being the poorest of dried fruit. - </p> - <p> - Dried cherries also are scarcely worth cooking, even if they <i>have</i> - been stoned. Being tough and indigestible, they are very unwholesome, - except for rough, hard-working people. If the stones are left in, dried - cherries are fit for nothing. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DAMSON SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having stewed the damsons in their own juice, till all the stones slip - out, (and can be easily removed with a spoon, when taken from the fire,) - make them very sweet by stirring in a large portion of brown sugar. - </p> - <p> - Damsons, cranberries, and gooseberries require more sugar than any other - fruit. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE PRUNE SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash a pound of prunes, and stew them in orange juice, adding the yellow - rind of an orange, pared so fine as to be transparent—or grate it. - Stir them up frequently, and when quite done, and the stones are all - loose, sweeten the prunes with plenty of sugar. - </p> - <p> - Prune sauce is eaten with venison, or any sort of game; or with roast kid - or fawn—or with roast pig.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" - id="Page_343">[343]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHESTNUT SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the large Spanish chestnuts. Cut a slit in the side of each, and - roast them well. Peel them, and put them into a saucepan of very rich - melted butter. If you use American chestnuts, boil them till quite soft, - (trying two or three to ascertain,) then peel, and thicken your melted - butter with them. American chestnuts are too small to roast. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PEA-NUT SAUCE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having roasted and shelled a pint of pea-nuts, or ground-nuts, remove the - thin brown skin, and simmer the nuts in melted or drawn butter; adding - some fine fresh oysters, omitting the gristle. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="VEGETABLES" id="VEGETABLES"></a>VEGETABLES. - </h2> - <p> - All vegetables are best when fresh, as can easily be discovered by the - difference between those newly brought from the garden, and those that - have been kept in a provision shop till next day, (and perhaps longer,) - imbibing the atmosphere of meat, fish, poultry, and a variety of things, - each becoming impure from the same causes; not to mention the rats, mice, - and insects which run over them at night. You cannot have vegetables in - perfection without a country garden. But if obliged to depend upon the - market or the provi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[344]</a></span>sion - shops, always have your vegetables washed and laid in cold water before - cooking. Some are best when put on to boil in cold water; others require - boiling water at the beginning, to give them what the cooks call a quick - start. All should be thoroughly done throughout. If hard in the centre - they are unpalatable, and very unwholesome; even worse than underdone - meat. Use but very little salt in cooking vegetables; too much renders - them hard, and overpowers their real taste. Also, it is easy for the - lovers of salt to add more when at table. When vegetables are done, and - taken out the pot, drain them well through a cullender or sieve, carefully - pressing out all the water that is about them. There is generally, in our - country, too much water allowed to the vegetables. Merely enough to cover - them well, and keep them from burning, is in most cases sufficient. In - France, so little water is used in cooking vegetables, that they are - rather stewed than boiled, and are the better for it. A puddle of greasy - water in the bottom of every vegetable dish is a disgusting sight; and yet - how frequently it is seen. If of every-day occurrence, it is a certain - indication of a bad cook, or an inefficient mistress, or both. - </p> - <p> - Almost all green vegetables should be thrown into fast-boiling water, and - cooked rapidly; first washing them carefully, and laying them for half an - hour in a large pan of cold water. If found frozen in the winter, be sure - to thaw them in cold water. Continue the boiling till they are<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[345]</a></span> - thoroughly done, and with a steady heat, taking off the scum as it rises. - </p> - <p> - It is very usual in the spring to bring early vegetables from the south, - for the markets of Philadelphia and New York. By the time they reach us - they are faded, withered, tough and unwholesome. It is better to wait a - week or two longer till the season is a little more advanced, and the - farms and gardens of our neighborhood can supply our own markets, at a far - less cost, and with fresher and better vegetables. - </p> - <p> - The water in which vegetables have been boiled becomes very unwholesome, - and should be thrown out immediately. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To have boiled potatos in perfection they should all be of a good sort and - as nearly as possible of the same size. Till it is time to cook them, let - the slight mould or earth that has adhered to the potatos in digging, be - carefully washed off, even scrubbing them with a hard brush. This can be - done very conveniently, by laying them under the hydrant or pump, washing - them there with a broom, and letting the water run on them. - </p> - <p> - An iron pot is the best of all things for boiling potatos, as it retains - the heat longer than any other utensil. Lay them in it, closely and - compactly, and pour in barely sufficient cold water to cover them well, - adding a tea-spoonful of salt. Simmer them till nearly done, which you may<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[346]</a></span> - ascertain by probing all through with a fork. You may quicken the fire for - the last five minutes. Pour off all the water from them as soon as they - are tender all through. Lift the lid of the pot at one side to allow the - steam to pass off, and set them beside the fire, or on a trevet far above - it, till the moisture has escaped; the potatos will then be dry and mealy. - Then peel them; or if preferred, send them to table with the skin on, - which will keep them hot longer. - </p> - <p> - If the potatos are old, cut a piece of skin (about the size of a sixpence) - from the top and bottom before boiling; or, take off a long slip from each - side. In the spring, when quite old, cut out all the blemishes, pare the - potatos, and always boil them for mashing. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROAST POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Potatos for roasting should always be large and fine. If small, "they go - all to skin." Select those that are nearest of a size, and wash them very - clean, and wipe every one with a cloth. Put them into an oven, and let - them roast or bake for more than two hours, turning them with a fork. Dish - them in the skins, and send only cold butter to table with them. Bake - sweet potatos in the same manner, but much longer. Small sweet potatos - should be boiled; as, when small, they are not worth cooking in any other - way; and when roasted there is scarcely any thing of them, but tough - shriveled skin<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[347]</a></span>. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pare some fine potatos all about the same size, and cover with them the - whole bottom of a large deep earthen dish; lay them close together so that - they all touch. Bake them under a nice piece of beef, veal, or pork, - raised above them on a trivet. The gravy from the meat will drip upon them - as soon as it begins to bake. They must bake till they are nicely browned, - and till a fork will easily go through them. Have a smaller dish of - potatos baked without meat, in a dish by themselves, as potatos pared - before baking are much liked. Lay some bits of fresh butter among those - that are cooked without any meat. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO BOIL NEW POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Rub each one with a coarse cloth to clear off the skin, it being too thin - for paring. Wash them well, and cut a small piece off the top and bottom - of each potato, to make them boil tender all through. Put no salt in the - water, and boil them till soft. Serve them plain, and eat them with cold - butter—or, put them into a sauce-pan, and stew them in butter. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MASHED POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having boiled the potatos till tender all through, drain them very dry in - a cullender, and mash them smoothly with a potato beetle, a large wooden - spoon, or a short-handled wooden ladle. When all are nicely mashed, add - gradually plenty of fresh butter, and some cream or rich milk. On no - account spoil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[348]</a></span> - the potatos by putting any water to them, when mashing. Put them into a - deep dish or mould, and brown them with a salamander. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POTATO CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - After the mashed potatos are mixed with butter in a deep earthen pan, beat - them with a wooden spoon to render them very light. Then make them up into - thick flat cakes, about the size of a muffin, and brown each with a - salamander. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COUNTRY POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having boiled and peeled some fine newly-dug potatos, melt some butter in - a sauce-pan, with cream, instead of flour and water, and pour it - plentifully into the dish of potatos; seasoning with black pepper and - sweet marjoram leaves. Where cream is plenty, this is a very nice way of - cooking. Serve them up with the sauce poured over them, and around them. - They must be well boiled, and tender all through. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The potatos must be raw, large, unblemished, and of a good round shape. - First take off a thin paring of the skin. Then, pare the whole potato - round and round, (not too thin,) till you have gone through it all, and - nothing is left unpared but a little lump in the centre. Then put these - continuous rings of potato into a frying-pan, in which is boiling plenty - of fresh butter, or butter and lard mixed. Fry them<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[349]</a></span> brown and tender, and - arrange them handsomely in a dish for breakfast. - </p> - <p> - <i>Another Way.</i>—Slice thin a sufficiency of fine raw potatos, - and lay them in a pan of cold water to soak for an hour or more. Then pour - off that water entirely, and replace it with fresh. Let them remain in - this for another hour, or till it is time to cook them. Put them into a - frying-pan that has in it plenty of fresh butter or lard, enough, while - frying, to keep the potatos near the surface. Fry them till perfectly well - done and tender. - </p> - <p> - Attempting to re-cook cold potatos renders them more hard and tough. - </p> - <p> - When once cold, potatos always remain indigestible, cook them as you will. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having pared some fine raw potatos, quarter them, and put them into a - stew-pan with a little salt, pepper, and some green sweet marjoram - stripped from the stalks, and scattered among the potatos. Put them into a - stew-pan with milk enough to prevent their burning, and some fresh butter—no - water. If you can get cream conveniently, add some to the milk. Cover the - pan, and let the potatos stew, till, on trying them with a fork, you find - them thoroughly cooked, and soft and tender all through. If not - sufficiently done, they are hard, tough, leathery, and unfit to eat. - </p> - <p> - They are very good stewed entirely in the dripping of cold gravy of roast - beef, veal, or pork<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[350]</a></span>—but - not mutton, as that will give them the taste of tallow. This is a nice - breakfast dish. Cold potatos re-cooked never again become good. After - potatos once become cold, no cooking can restore them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED SWEET POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - These should first be scraped or pared. Then cut into pieces, and stewed - as above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED CABBAGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - All cabbage should be well washed, and boiled in a large quantity of water - with a little salt; the loose or faded leaves being stripped from the - outside. They should always be cut or split in two, or in four pieces if - very large. Cut the stalk short, and split it up to where the leaves - begin. Put it on in boiling water, and keep it boiling steadily till quite - done, which will not be till the stalk is tender throughout. If a young - summer cabbage, split it in half, and when well boiled, and drained and - pressed in a cullender, serve it up with a few bits of cold fresh butter, - laid inside among the leaves. Season it with pepper. This is a much nicer - and easier way, than to make drawn butter, and pour over the outside of - the cabbage. - </p> - <p> - Sprouts and very young greens, require nothing more than to be well - washed, boiled and drained. In the country, cabbage sprouts are commonly - boiled with bacon. - </p> - <p> - Savoy cabbage is considered the finest sort. It<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[351]</a></span> is a late autumn and winter - cabbage. If very large, split it in four. Do not boil it with meat. The - fat will render it strong and unwholesome. Still worse, when melted butter - is added to a cabbage already saturated with the fat of corned beef. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - AN EXCELLENT WAY OF BOILING CABBAGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having trimmed the cabbage, and washed it well in cold water, (examining - the leaves to see that no insects are lurking among them,) cut it almost - into quarters, but do not divide it entirely down at the stem, which - should be cut off just below the termination of the leaves. Let it lie an - hour in a pan of cold water. Have ready a pot <i>full</i> of boiling - water, seasoned with a small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the cabbage into - it, and let it boil for an hour and a half, skimming it occasionally. Then - take it out; put it into a cullender to drain, and when all the hot water - has drained off; set it under the hydrant. Let the hydrant run on it, till - the cabbage has become perfectly cold all through. If you have no hydrant, - set it under a pump, or keep pouring cold water on it from a pitcher. - Then, having thrown out all the first water, and washed the pot, fill it - again, and let the second water boil. During this time the cabbage under - the hydrant will be growing cold. Then put it on again in the second - water, and boil it two hours, or two and a half. Even the thickest part of - the stalk must be perfectly tender all through. When thoroughly done, take - up the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[352]</a></span> - cabbage, drain it well through the cullender, pressing it down with a - broad ladle to squeeze out all the moisture; lay it in a deep dish, and - cut it <i>entirely</i> apart, dividing it into quarters. Lay some bits of - fresh butter among the leaves, add a little pepper, cover the dish, and - send it to table hot. - </p> - <p> - Cooked in this manner it will be made perfectly wholesome, and the usually - unpleasant cabbage smell will be rendered imperceptible. We recommend it - highly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CALE CANNON.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil in one pot a fine large cabbage, and when done, drain and press it in - a cullender till all the water is squeezed out. Have boiled in another, - four or five large mealy potatos. Peel and mash the potatos, and chop the - cabbage small. Mix the cabbage and the potatos evenly, in one large dish, - and season them with black pepper; adding some bits of nice butter. Cale - cannon is a plain family dish, but is very good, when all the dinner - corresponds. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED CABBAGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Parboil a fine cabbage. When half-boiled, take it out, drain it, and lay - it awhile in cold water, to remove the cabbage smell. Next put it into a - clean pot of fresh water, and boil it again till thoroughly done. - Afterwards, chop it small, season it with pepper and salt, and fry it in - fresh butter. - </p> - <p> - A less delicate way is to fry it in boiling lard,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[353]</a></span> taking care to drain it - well. It should be eaten only by people in good health. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FORCED CABBAGE— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>Choux farcie.</i>)—This is for dinner company. Take two fine - fresh cabbages, and examine them well to see that there are no insects - hidden among the leaves. Wash the cabbages in cold water, and drain them. - Take out the heart or inside cluster of leaves in the centre of each - cabbage, leaving a circle of them standing. Cut off the stalk near the - bottom, but not so close as to cause the cabbage to fall apart. You may - leave a double circle of leaves. Have ready plenty of stuffing, or - forcemeat, made of veal or fresh pork minced finely, cold ham or smoked - tongue minced also, grated bread-crumbs, fresh butter, powdered mace, - sweet marjoram and sweet basil, grated lemon-peel, and two hard-boiled - yolks of egg, crumbled fine. Fill the cabbages full with this stuffing, - and to keep them in shape, tie them firmly round in several places, with - strings of twine or bass. They must be tied in the form of a round ball. - Put them into a stew-pot, with water enough to cover them well, and let - them stew till thoroughly done. Take them up immediately before they are - wanted, and remove the strings that have kept them in shape while cooking. - Red cabbages may be done in this way.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[354]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRENCH SOUR CROUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This may be made fresh every day, and has none of the objections generally - alleged against the German saur-kraut. Having taken out the stalks or - cores, split into quarters, four large white-heart cabbages. Shred them - fine with a cabbage-cutter. Wash them well in two waters, and drain them - in a cullender. Next lay the shred cabbages in a large earthen pan, add a - table-spoonful of salt, and a pint of the best cider vinegar. Stir and - toss the cabbage in this, and let it steep for three hours. Then wash and - drain it, and put it into a large stew-pan, with half a pound of nice - sweet butter, or a quarter of a pound of lard. Season it with a little - black pepper, and three table-spoonfuls of French mustard, or a jill of - tarragon vinegar. Cover the whole with a buttered white paper, and stew it - slowly for two hours longer. Take off the paper, and send the sour crout - to table in a covered dish. - </p> - <p> - You may lay on the top of the stew, a pound of sausage meat, or of sausage - cakes. Or a thin slice or two of cold ham. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DRESSING FOR SLAW.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mix a small pint of real cider vinegar with four large table-spoonfuls of - nice fresh butter, divided into four bits, and each bit rolled in flour; a - tea-spoon of salt, and a salt-spoon of cayenne. Being well stirred, and - mixed thoroughly, boil this in a porcelain-lined sauce-pan; and, as soon - as it has come to a fast boil, remove it from the fire, and stir in<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[355]</a></span> the - beaten yolk of four eggs. Have ready a nice fresh white cabbage, that has - been washed, drained, and cut, or shaved, into small shreds with a cabbage - cutter. Lay the shred cabbage in a deep dish or bowl, while you prepare - the above dressing. Having taken it from the fire, and stirred in, - gradually, the beaten yolk of egg, pour the dressing hot over the cabbage: - mixing it all with a large boxwood salad-spoon or fork. Set it out of - doors to cool; or cool it quickly on ice or snow. - </p> - <p> - Or if preferred warm, place it on the top of a stove, and cover it closely - till wanted. It may be made of red cabbage. - </p> - <p> - This slaw (either cold or warm) will be found very superior to all others, - if this receipt is exactly followed. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SALSIFY FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having washed and scraped the salsify roots, and cut off the extreme - joints, stand them up and grate them. Beat three eggs very light, and stir - them gradually into a pint of milk, with sufficient flour to make a stiff - batter. Instead of grating the salsify you may cut it into pieces, and - boil it till quite soft, so that you can mash it easily. Add a little - pepper. Have ready over the fire a deep frying-pan or skillet, with plenty - of boiling lard. Put in a large spoonful of the batter, and into the - middle of each drop a spoonful of the mashed salsify. Fry these fritters - of a light brown on both sides, and take them out with a perforated - skimmer, draining off the lard through its holes.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[356]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - You may fry the mashed salsify without the batter, taking large spoonfuls, - and dipping each in beaten egg first, and afterward twice over in grated - bread-crumbs, so as to resemble fried oysters. - </p> - <p> - Or you may first boil the roots merely split in two, and then fry them in - fresh butter, or bake them brown in an oven. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SALSIFY OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Get some fine salsify roots, (called also oyster-plant,) and wash and - scrape them well. Boil them in sufficient fresh oyster liquor to cover - them well, and when they are soft take them out, split them, and cut them - into pieces about two inches long. Then put them into a stew-pan, with the - oyster liquor, some pieces of fresh butter rolled in flour, and some - blades of mace and some grated nutmeg, with a few whole pepper-corns. Let - them cook between five and ten minutes, having stirred among them the - beaten yolks of two or three eggs. Serve them up hot, as a side dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MELONGINA OR EGG-PLANT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large fine egg-plant, and see that there are no blemishes about it. - Having cut it into thin round slices, (without paring off the skin,) - sprinkle between the slices a very little salt and pepper, cover them with - a plate, and let them rest an hour more. Then wipe the pieces dry. Have - some beaten egg<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[357]</a></span> - in one deep plate, and some bread-crumbs, finely grated, in another. Dip - each slice of egg-plant first into the beaten egg, and then into the - bread-crumbs, and fry them brown in a pan full of boiling lard, or else - lard and fresh butter mixed in equal quantities. Take them out with a - perforated skimmer, and drain them well. - </p> - <p> - They will be much better if each slice is dipped <i>twice</i> in the egg, - and twice in the crumbs. - </p> - <p> - They may be fried very plainly, simply dredged with flour, and then put - into a pan with plenty of boiling lard, the lard drained well from each - slice when it is done. They should be fried brown on both sides. If - underdone, and left greenish or whitish, they have a raw bitter taste. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED EGG-PLANTS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Prepare several fine large unblemished egg-plants, by scooping out the - inside or pulp with a spoon, leaving the rind standing. To do this you - must cut off very nicely and evenly a round piece from the top, - (afterwards to be tied on again.) Make a sufficient quantity of forcemeat - or stuffing of soaked bread, pressed and dried slightly; fresh butter; - minced sweet marjoram leaves; a little pepper and salt; and some powdered - mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated off very fine. Mix all these - with the pulp or inside of the egg-plant. When thoroughly mixed, stuff - with it the rind or outside into a perfectly round shape, and with a - packthread tie on the top-piece which<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[358]</a></span> was cut off. Put the - egg-plants into a dish, the bottom covered with thin slices of cold ham. - Bake them for an hour or more, and then send them to table whole, with the - slices of ham laid round on the dish. Remove the strings. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED BANANAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The bananas should be perfectly ripe and yellow all over. Peel them, split - them into long slips, and dredge them slightly with flour. Have ready a - frying pan filled with boiling lard. Put in the bananas, and fry them - well. When done, take them up on a perforated skimmer, and drain back the - lard into the frying pan. Dish, and send them to table with powdered sugar - to eat with them. - </p> - <p> - In the West Indies, the large green bananas that are exported from thence, - are by no means in favor, compared with a <i>very small</i> yellow sort, - the only banana eaten at the best tables. The little ones are fried in the - above manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ONION CUSTARD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Peel and slice ten or twelve mild onions, and fry them in fresh butter, - draining them well when you take them up. Then mince them as fine as - possible. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and stir them - gradually into a pint of milk, in turn with the minced onion. Season the - whole with plenty of grated nutmeg, and stir it very hard. Then put it - into a deep white dish, and bake it about a quar<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[359]</a></span>ter of an hour. Send it to - table as a side dish, to be eaten with poultry. It is a French - preparation, and will be found very nice, by those who have no dislike to - onions. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAULIFLOWERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Choose large fine white cauliflowers. Wash them well, and lay them in a - pan of cold water, having divided each cauliflower into quarters. Trim off - the outside green leaves. Put on the cauliflowers in boiling water with a - little salt in it. It is still better to boil them in milk. Let them cook - till tender throughout, flower and stalk. When quite done, put some bits - of fresh butter among the flowers, or pour over them drawn butter sauce, - made with milk and seasoned with powdered nutmeg or mace. Serve them up - hot, and covered. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROCCOLI— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Is drest in the same manner. It is very good with toast under, though - inferior to cauliflower. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAULIFLOWER OMELET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the white part of a boiled cauliflower after it is cold; chop it very - small, and mix with it a sufficient quantity of well beaten-egg, to make a - very thick batter. Then fry it in fresh butter in a small pan, and send it - hot to table.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[360]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED CAULIFLOWER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having laid a fine cauliflower in cold water for an hour, put it into a - pot of boiling water that has been slightly salted, (milk and water will - be still better,) and boil it twenty-five minutes, or till the large stalk - is perfectly tender. Then divide it, equally, into small tufts, and spread - it on a dish to cool. Prepare a sufficient quantity of batter made in the - proportion of a table-spoonful of flour, and two table-spoonfuls of milk - to each egg. Beat the eggs very light, then stir into them the flour and - milk alternately; a spoonful of flour, and two spoonfuls of milk at a - time. When the cauliflower is cold, have ready some fresh butter in a - frying-pan over a clear fire. When it has come to a boil and has done - bubbling, dip each tuft of cauliflower twice into the pan of batter, and - fry them a light brown. Send them to table hot. - </p> - <p> - Broccoli may be fried in this manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAULIFLOWER MACCARONI.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having removed the outside leaves, and cut off the stalk, wash the - cauliflower, and examine it thoroughly to see if there are any insects - about it. Next lay it for an hour in a pan of cold water. Then put it into - a pot of boiling milk and water that has had a little fresh butter melted - in it. Whatever scum may float on the top of the water must be removed - before the cauliflower goes in. Boil it steadily half an hour, or till it - is quite tender. Then take it out, drain it, and cut it into short<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[361]</a></span> sprigs. - Have ready three ounces of rich, but not strong cheese, grated fine. Put - into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, nearly half of the - grated cheese, two large table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk, and a very - little salt and cayenne. Toss or shake it over the fire till it is well - mixed and has come to a boil. Then add the tufts of cauliflower, and let - the whole stew together about five minutes. When done put it into a deep - dish, strew over the top the remaining half of the grated cheese, and - brown it with a salamander or a red-hot shovel held above the surface. - </p> - <p> - This will be found very superior to real maccaroni. It is a company dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROCCOLI AND EGGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take several heads of broccoli and cut the stalks short, paring off from - the stalks the tough outside skin. Trim off the small outside shoots or - blossoms, and tie them together in bunches. After all the broccoli has - been washed, and lain half an hour or more in a pan of fresh cold water, - put the large heads, with a salt-spoonful of salt, into a pot of boiling - water, and let them boil till thoroughly done, and the stalk perfectly - tender. When the large heads have boiled about a quarter of an hour, put - in the small tufts, which of course require less time to cook. In the - meanwhile have ready six beaten eggs. Put a quarter of a pound of butter - into a sauce-pan, and stir it over the fire till it is all melted; then - add gradually the beaten eggs, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" - id="Page_362">[362]</a></span> stir the mixture, or shake it over the fire - till it becomes very thick. Toast sufficient bread to cover entirely the - bottom of a deep dish, cutting it to fit exactly, having removed the - crust. Dip the toast for a minute in hot water. Pour the egg and butter - over the hot toast. Then place upon it the broccoli; the largest and - finest head in the middle, the lesser ones round it, and having untied the - small sprigs, lay them in a circle close to the edge. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED CELERY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine large celery, cut it into pieces three or four inches in length, - and boil it tender, having seasoned the water with a very little salt. - Then drain the pieces well, and lay them, separately, to cool on a large - dish. Make a batter in the proportion of three well-beaten eggs stirred - into a pint of rich milk, alternately with half a pint of grated - bread-crumbs, or of sifted flour. Beat the batter very hard after it is - all mixed. Put into a hot frying-pan a sufficiency of fresh lard; melt it - over the fire, and when it comes to a boil, dip each piece of celery <i>twice</i> - into the batter, put them into the pan, and fry them a light brown. When - done, lay them to drain on an inverted sieve with a broad pan placed - beneath it. Then dish the fried celery, and send it to table hot. - </p> - <p> - Parsnips, and salsify, (or oyster plant) may be fried in butter according - to the above directions. Also the tops of asparagus cut off from the - stalk, and the white part or blossom of cauliflower.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[363]</a></span> Cold sweet potatos are very - nice, peeled, cut into long slips, and fried in this way. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRIED ARTICHOKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The artichokes must be young and tender. Cut them into quarters, remove - the choke part, and strip off the leaves. Having washed the artichokes - well and laid them an hour in cold water, put them into a pot of boiling - water, and keep them boiling steadily for a long time, till you find by - trying them with a a fork that they are tender all through. Then take them - out immediately, and drain them. Have ready a sufficiency of batter, made - in the proportion of the yolk of one egg to a large table-spoonful of - milk, and a tea-spoonful of flour. The eggs must be well beaten before - they are mixed with the milk; then beat in the flour a spoonful at a time. - Have ready over the fire some fresh butter, or lard, in a frying-pan. When - it has boiled hard, dip the artichokes into the butter, (each piece should - be twice dipped,) and fry them brown. Then drain them well, and send them - to table hot. - </p> - <p> - Parsnips may be fried as above. Salsify also. - </p> - <p> - Another way of frying artichokes, parsnips, and salsify, is, after they - have been boiled tender, to dip each piece first in beaten yolk of egg, - (without milk or flour,) and then roll it in finely grated bread-crumbs. - Then put them into the pan and fry them in butter or lard, or a mixture of - both.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[364]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - In boiling artichokes, observe to take them out as soon as they are - tender. If they remain in the water after they are done, they turn - blackish and lose their flavor. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUSHROOM OMELET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some fresh-gathered mushrooms; remove the stalks, and rub the flaps - or heads very slightly with a little salt, mixed with cayenne. Then stew - the mushrooms in a small sauce-pan, with barely sufficient cream or rich - milk to cover them. Put in with them a small onion; and if the onion is - found to turn blackish, throw away the whole; it being proof that there is - among them a false or poisonous mushroom. Stir them with a silver spoon, - and keep on the lid of the pan closely, unless when you are stirring. If - the spoon turns black, the mushrooms should not be eaten. - </p> - <p> - After they have come to a boil, take them off the fire; drain them, and - when cool, chop them small. To a pint or more of the minced mushrooms, - allow six or seven eggs. Beat the eggs till very light and thick, - (omitting the whites of two,) and then mix in, gradually, the mushrooms, - stirring the whole very hard. Put three ounces of fresh butter into a hot - omelet pan, or a <i>small</i> frying-pan; place it over the fire and stir - the butter as it melts. When it has boiled hard, put in the omelet - mixture, and as it fries, stir it till it begins to set. Do not turn the - omelet; but brown the top by holding close above it a red-hot<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[365]</a></span> shovel. - When done, drain off the butter, fold over or double the omelet, and serve - it up immediately on a hot dish. - </p> - <p> - In gathering mushrooms, those that are fit to eat may be known by their - being of a pale pearl color, or of a grayish white, instead of what is - called a dead white; and the underside of the flap or head (if good) is of - a light pink, or a pinkish salmon color. The best mushrooms grow on - uplands, or in high open fields where the air is pure and good, and they - should be gathered early in the morning before the dew is off. All that - are found in low swampy ground, or in the woods, or under large trees, are - poisonous. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SCOLLOPED TOMATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine large tomatos, perfectly ripe. Scald them to loosen the skins, - and then peel them. Cover the bottom of a deep dish thickly with grated - bread-crumbs, adding a few bits of fresh butter. Then put in a layer of - tomatos, seasoned slightly with a little salt and cayenne, and some - powdered mace or nutmeg. Cover them with another layer of bread-crumbs and - butter; then another layer of seasoned tomatos; and proceed thus until the - dish is full, finishing at the top with bread-crumbs. Set the dish into a - moderate oven, and bake it near three hours. Tomatos require long cooking, - otherwise they will have a raw taste, that to most persons is unpleasant.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[366]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ASPARAGUS OMELET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two bunches of the largest and finest asparagus. Put it into a pot of - boiling water, with a salt-spoonful of salt, and boil it about twenty-five - minutes, or till perfectly tender. Then drain it, and chop small all the - green part. Beat four eggs very light, and add to them a wine-glass of - cream. Mix the chopped asparagus thoroughly with the egg and cream, adding - a salt-spoon of salt, and a very little cayenne. Melt a large slice of - fresh butter in a frying-pan over the fire; and when it has boiled, and - the bubbling has ceased, put in the mixture, and fry it till light and - firm. Then slip it from the frying-pan to a hot dish, and fold it over. - </p> - <p> - For a soft omelet, put the mixture into a skillet with a piece of fresh - butter. Let it stew slowly for ten minutes. Lay a thin slice of buttered - toast in the bottom of a hot dish, and cut the toast into small squares, - but let them remain close together. With a spoon heap the soft omelet upon - the toast, and serve it up. - </p> - <p> - Any omelet mixture may be kept soft by stewing instead of frying it, and - it will be found more wholesome. - </p> - <p> - Before buttering the toast dip it a minute in hot water. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED PEAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take young, tender, green peas, wash them, and put them into a stew-pan, - with sufficient fresh butter to keep them from burning, <i>but no water</i>. - Season them with a little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_367" - id="Page_367">[367]</a></span> black pepper, and a very little salt. Set - them over a moderate fire, and stir them about till the butter is well - mixed through them. Let them simmer till quite soft and slightly broken; - take off the lid occasionally, and give them a stir up from the bottom. If - you find them becoming too dry, add some more butter. When done, drain off - what superfluous butter may be about the peas, and send them to table hot. - They will be found excellent. - </p> - <p> - To the taste of many persons, they will be improved by a lump or two of - loaf-sugar put in with the butter, and also by a few sprigs of mint, to be - removed before the peas go to table. - </p> - <p> - Lima beans may be stewed in butter, as above; also, asparagus tops, cut - off from the white stalk. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LETTUCE PEAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having washed four lettuces, and stripped off the outside leaves, take - their hearts, and (having chopped them well) put them into a stew-pan with - two quarts of young green peas, freshly shelled; a lump or two of - loaf-sugar; and three or four leaves of green mint minced as finely as - possible. Then put in four slices of cold ham, and a quarter of a pound of - butter divided into four bits, and rolled in flour; and two - table-spoonfuls of water. Add a little cayenne, and let the whole stew for - about twenty-five minutes, or till the peas are thoroughly done. Next take - out the ham, and add to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" - id="Page_368">[368]</a></span> stew half a pint of cream. Let it continue - stewing five minutes longer. Then send it to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLAIN LETTUCE PEAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cover the bottom and sides of a stew-pan with large fresh leaves taken - from lettuces. Have ready the peas, which should be young and green. To - each quart of shelled peas allow two table-spoonfuls of fresh butter, and - a lump of loaf sugar. Add a very little pepper and salt, and a sprig of - green mint. Cover the pan closely, and let it stew for half an hour, or - till the peas are thoroughly done. Then take them out from the lettuce - leaves, and send only the peas to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO STEW CARROTS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Half-boil the carrots; then scrape them nicely, and cut them into thick - slices. Put them into a stew-pan with as much milk as will barely cover - them; a very little salt and pepper; and a sprig or two of chopped - parsley. Simmer them till they are perfectly tender. When nearly done, add - a piece of fresh butter rolled in flour. Send them to table hot. Carrots - require long cooking; longer than any other vegetable. - </p> - <p> - Parsnips and salsify may be stewed in the above manner, substituting a - little chopped celery for the parsley.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[369]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SPINACH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having peeled and washed the spinach very nicely, put it into a <i>bain - marie</i>, or inside kettle, without any water, and cover it closely. Pour - the water into the outside kettle, and you may hurry the boiling by - throwing a handful of salt in the outside tin, taking care that none of - the salt gets into the inside. When the spinach is well stewed, take it up - and drain it without squeezing or pressing, as that will make it tough and - dry. Then chop it small, and add some hard-boiled eggs, also chopped. - Season it with pepper and fresh butter, stir it well together, return it - to the kettle, and let it stew a quarter of an hour or more. Serve it up - with buttered toast and poached eggs laid upon it. - </p> - <p> - Spinach being very watery, should always be <i>stewed</i> rather than - boiled. If you have no <i>bain marie</i>, the water that remains about the - spinach, after it has been washed, will suffice to stew it slowly. - </p> - <p> - Spinach juice, for coloring green, must be strained, and boiled slightly. - You can obtain plenty of juice by pounding the leaves. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO PREPARE CUCUMBERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Let the cucumbers be full-grown, but not in the least yellow or hard. They - are then only fit to be saved for seed. Lay the cucumbers in a pan of cold - water for an hour or more, or till it is nearly time to send them to - table, being careful not to set them in the sun. Have ready another pan of - fresh<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[370]</a></span> - water, (very cold) and having pared the cucumbers, slice them into it. - Transfer them to a deep china or white-ware dish. Season them with - vinegar, pepper, salt, and a little salad oil, taking care not to use too - much salt. When there is no dislike to onions, peel and slice a few that - are mild, and mix them with the cucumbers. It is usual now, at the best - tables, to have the onions in a small separate dish, (sliced with vinegar - and pepper) to be eaten by those that like them, and omitted by those who - do not. Onions, (and also salad oil) are said to render cucumbers more - wholesome. - </p> - <p> - Tomatos (raw) are frequently sliced, seasoned, and sent to table in the - manner of cucumbers. Tomatos are always wholesome. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED CUCUMBERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pare six fine fresh cucumbers. Cut each of them lengthways into four - pieces; lay them for an hour in a pan of cold water. Take a clean - stew-pan, and place in its bottom two table-spoonfuls of good fresh - butter. Then put in the slices of cucumber, and sprinkle them slightly - with a very little pepper. Add two table-spoonfuls of cold water. Set the - pan over a moderate fire, and let the cucumbers stew slowly for half an - hour or more, till they are well cooked. Keep the pan closely covered, - except when you have to remove the lid to stir the stew. Serve them up - hot, at breakfast, or as a side dish, at dinner.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[371]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Persons who have no objection to the taste of onions, will think the - cucumbers improved by the addition of the half of a moderate sized onion, - sliced thin and stewed with them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A NICE WAY OF COOKING ASPARAGUS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Where asparagus is plenty, there is no better way of cooking it than the - following. Take it as nearly of a size as possible, wash it, and cut off - the stalks very short, leaving them not more than half an inch in length. - Two quarts of water will be sufficient to boil one quart of asparagus - tops; allow a tea-spoonful of salt to this quantity of water, and set it - over the fire to boil. When the water is boiling hard, put in the - asparagus, and boil it fast for at least half an hour. To see if it is - done, take up two or three of the largest pieces and taste them. While it - is boiling, prepare two slices of bread cut half an inch thick, and - (having removed the crust) toast the bread brown on both sides. Have ready - a large jill of melted (or drawn) fresh butter. When the asparagus is - done, take it up with a perforated skimmer, and lay it on a sieve to - drain. Dip the slices of toast (one at a time) first in the hot asparagus - liquor, and then in the melted butter. Lay the slices, side by side, in a - deep dish, and cover it with the asparagus, laid evenly over and round the - toast. Then add the remainder of the drawn butter, and send the asparagus - to table hot, in a covered dish.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" - id="Page_372">[372]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - This is a much nicer way than that of boiling and serving it up with the - long stalks left on. And where you have asparagus in abundance, (for - instance in a country garden,) it may always be cooked in this manner. - </p> - <p> - This is from the receipt of Mr. N. Darling, of New Haven. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ASPARAGUS OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two bundles of fine full-grown asparagus. Cut off the green tops or - points as far down as the white stalk. Take a sufficient quantity of fresh - oysters, the finest you can get at that season. Put the asparagus tops - into a stew-pan, with enough of oyster liquor (previously strained) to - stew them quite tender. Stew the oysters themselves in another pan with - some more of their liquor, seasoned with pepper, mace, and nutmeg, adding - a large piece of fresh butter, divided into four, and each part rolled in - flour. Do not let the oysters stew more than five minutes, or they will - become tough and shriveled. When they are merely plumped, take them out - and cut them up small, omitting the gristle or hard part. Set the mixture - over the fire for about five minutes, stirring all the time. Have ready - some slices of nice toast, with all the crust pared off; the slices dipped - for a minute in hot water. Butter the toast, and cover with it the bottom - of a deep dish, and fill it with the mixture of asparagus and oysters.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[373]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ONION EGGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil a dozen eggs quite hard. Slice and fry in fresh butter five or six - onions. Slice (whites and yolks together) ten of the eggs, reserving two - for the seasoning. Drain the sliced onions, and lay them on a dish with - the sliced eggs placed upon them. Cover the dish, and keep it hot. Take - the two remaining eggs, grate the yolks, and mix them with cream and - grated nutmeg, and a very little cayenne. Put this mixture into a very - small sauce-pan, give it one boil up, pour it over the eggs and onions, - and send it to table hot. For those who have no objection to onions this - is a nice side dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EGG BALLS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil eight eggs till quite hard, and when done, throw them directly into - cold water. Then put the yolks into a mortar, and pound them to a paste, - moistening them as you proceed with the beaten yolks of three <i>raw</i> - eggs, seasoned with as much salt as will lie <i>flat</i> upon a shilling, - and a little cayenne, and powdered nutmeg and mace. Mix the whole well - together, and make it up into small round balls. Throw them into - mock-turtle soup, or into stewed terrapin, about two minutes before you - take it up. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CURRY BALLS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a sufficiency of finely-grated bread-crumbs; hard-boiled yolk of egg, - grated; fresh butter, and a little curry powder. Pound the whole in a - mortar, moistening it with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" - id="Page_374">[374]</a></span> raw yolk of egg (well-beaten) as you - proceed. Make it into small balls, and add them to stewed chicken or - rabbit, about five minutes before you take it up. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TOMATO PASTE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Scald and peel as many ripe tomatos as will fill a large, deep, stone jar. - Set them into a warm oven for an hour. Then skim off the watery liquid - that has risen to the top, and press and squeeze the tomatos in a sieve. - Afterwards add salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and powdered nutmeg, to your - taste; and to every quart of tomatos allow a half a pint of cider vinegar. - Stew the whole slowly in a porcelain kettle for three hours, (stirring it - frequently from the bottom,) till it becomes a smooth, thick paste. Then - put it into small jars or glasses, and cover it closely, pasting paper - over each. It is an excellent sauce, at the season when fresh tomatos are - not to be had, and is very good to thicken soup. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DRIED OCHRAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine large fresh ochras; cut them into thin, round slices; string - them on threads, and hang them up in festoons to dry in the store-room. - Before using, they must be soaked in water during twenty-four hours. They - will then be good (with the addition of tomato paste) to boil in soup or - gumbo.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[375]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF GUMBO.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put into a large stew-pan some pieces of the lean of fresh beef, cut up - into small bits, and seasoned with a little pepper and salt. Add sliced - ochras and tomatos, (either fresh or dried ochras and tomato paste.) You - may put in some sliced onions. Pour on water enough to cover it well. Let - it boil slowly, (skimming it well,) till everything is reduced to rags. - Then strain and press it through a cullender. Have ready a sufficiency of - toasted bread, cut into dice. Lay it in the bottom of a tureen, and pour - the strained gumbo upon it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO BOIL OCHRAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For boiling, the ochras should be young and small. Wash them, and cut off - a small piece from each end. Boil them till very tender throughout. Then - drain them well, and transfer them to a deep dish. Lay among them some - bits of fresh butter, and season them with pepper. Cover the dish, that - the butter may be warm and melt the sooner. Or you may make a sauce of - half a pint of milk boiled, and when it has come to a boil enrich with a - quarter of a pound of very good fresh butter, divided into four pieces; - each piece rolled in a little flour, the butter stirred in gradually and - smoothly, as soon as the milk is taken off the fire. Pour this sauce over - the dish of ochras, and keep it covered till it has gone to table. - </p> - <p> - We prefer the first way, putting the bit of butter cold into the hot - ochras, with either milk or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" - id="Page_376">[376]</a></span> flour, and letting the butter melt - gradually, in the manner of green beans. You may boil with them a small - piece of very good bacon, removing when the ochras are taken off the fire. - Season with pepper. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ONIONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The best onions for cooking are the white or silver-skinned. The - red-skinned are generally strong and coarse. Shalots are very small and - delicate. Some sorts of large onions are milder and nicer than those of - middle size, and some that are very small have a powerful taste and smell. - The outer skin of most onions should be peeled entirely, and the ends cut - off. All onions are the better for boiling, before they are cooked for any - other purpose. Put them into a stew-pan with cold water, and when they - have come to a boil pour off that water, and replace it with fresh cold - also. Boil them slowly till quite tender all through, which will not be in - less than half an hour; more, if they are large. When done, drain them - well, dish them, and pour over them some nice melted butter. - </p> - <p> - <i>To Stew Onions.</i>—Peel, slice them, and stew them in milk, - enriched with butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with a little cayenne - and a few blades of mace. - </p> - <p> - <i>To Roast Onions.</i>—Select fine large onions; do not peel them, - but place them in a bake-pan, and set them in an oven. Bake them slowly - till tender all through. When done, peel off the outer skin,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[377]</a></span> and send - them hot to table, to eat with pepper and cold butter. - </p> - <p> - They are very good when covered up and roasted under hot ashes, taking - care that they are done quite through to the heart. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO BOIL GREEN PEAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - When the peas are shelled, wash them in a pan of cold water. Put on the - peas in cold water, (a little salted) and let them boil very fast. If nice - peas, they will generally be done in a quarter of an hour after beginning - to boil. When simmering, add to them a lump or a spoonful of loaf-sugar, - and a sprig of fresh green mint, (half a dozen leaves) having first - ascertained if mint is not disliked by any person who is to eat of the - peas. To some the taste and odor of mint is very agreeable, to others very - disgusting, as is the case with onions, and many other things that are - liked by the majority. - </p> - <p> - When the peas are all soft or tender, take out the mint, drain the peas - through a cullender till not a drop of water is left among them; transfer - them to a deep dish, mix into them some of the best fresh butter, and - sprinkle them with pepper. Cover them immediately, and send them to table - hot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED PEAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having prepared the peas as above, put them into a stew-pan without any - water. Mix among them plenty of bits of nice<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[378]</a></span> fresh butter, sufficient to - cook them. Let them stew slowly in the butter till they are quite soft, - stirring them up from the bottom frequently. Drain and dish them. They - will be found very fine—better than if boiled in water. Peas should - not be stewed this way, except in places where plenty of good <i>fresh</i> - butter is to be easily obtained. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GREEN PEAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The largest and finest peas are what the English call marrowfat. The sugar - pea is next. All green peas for boiling should be young and tender, but - not so young as to be tasteless or insipid. As a general rule, nearly - every article of food is best when it has just attained its full growth - and ripeness; after that period the older it is the worse. Peas, so old as - to be hard and yellow, are unfit to eat. In some ultra economical houses, - good peas are things unknown. They are not bought in spring or early - summer while young and fresh, but are never thought cheap enough till they - become hard and yellow. Afterwards, when they reach the cheap state, a - quantity are bought low, and put into jars not to be touched till next - spring, when they are boiled, (with great difficulty, for they never - become soft,) and <i>attempted</i> to be passed off "as this year's fresh - peas"—and by the time the family have gotten through with <i>them</i>, - "this year's young peas" have become old. Do not believe (for it is - untrue,) that any eatable can be kept in <i>all</i> its genuine freshness - and original flavor, by merely secluding them<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[379]</a></span> entirely from air. They - will not spoil or decompose if skillfully managed; but they <i>have not - exactly</i> their natural taste and consistence. It is better for those - who <i>never make pickles or preserves</i>, to wait for fresh vegetables - or fruit, till they are actually in market—or, if put up in jars, to - add something more than parboiling and seclusion from the air. Vinegar, - salt, sugar, spice and alcohol, will be found the grand and universal - articles for securing the goodness of nearly all eatables. Without some of - these along with them, things that have not spoiled while secluded from - air, will surely spoil almost as soon as the jars are opened, and the - external air admitted to them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GREEN OR STRING BEANS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take young and tender beans, the seeds just forming in the pods. Take off - the string with a knife, leaving no bits of string adhering to the beans, - either at top or bottom. Do not split them. Cut each bean into three - pieces, <i>not more</i>, and as you cut them throw them into a pan of cold - water, kept beside you for the purpose. The old-fashioned way is now - obsolete of cutting them into dice or diamonds, or of splitting them. The - more they are cut up (beside the trouble and time wasted,) the more the - water gets through them when cooking; the more tasteless they become, and - the more difficult they are to drain. We have never met with beans that, - when cut small, had not a puddle of greasy water in the bottom of the - dish, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[380]</a></span> - sometimes the water was all through the dish, and the beans floating in - it. Shame on such bean-cooking! When the beans are all ready for the pot, - throw them into boiling water very slightly salted, and they will - generally be done in half an hour after they have come to a boil. Transfer - them to a sieve; and press, and drain them well, till no water is left - about them. Then put them into a deep dish, mix them with fresh butter, - and dredge them with black pepper. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LIMA BEANS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Shell the lima beans into a pan of cold water. Let them lie in it an hour. - Put them in boiling water, little more than enough to cover them, and boil - them till soft and tender. When done, drain and serve them up in a deep - dish, adding among them a good piece of butter. The Lima beans now raised - in North America have become coarse and white, requiring a renewal of - fresh stock or new seeds from Peru. They will then be green and delicate - again, as formerly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEET POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Choose the sweet potatos large, and nearly of the same size, then you can - either boil or roast them. When small they should always be boiled; as, - when baked or roasted, the skin becomes so thick and hard, that it takes - up nearly the whole potato. Wash them very clean, and cut off a bit from - each end. Put them into a large pot of boiling water without<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[381]</a></span> salt, - and boil them steadily for at least an hour. Probe them with a - narrow-bladed sharp knife, and if it does not easily penetrate all through - the largest potato, (in at one side and out at the other) continue the - boiling till all are soft throughout. Then take them up, peel them, and - keep them warm till sent to table. - </p> - <p> - <i>To Bake Sweet Potatos</i> they should all be large. Wash them, dry - them, and cut off the ends. Then bake them in an oven, lying side by side, - not piling one on another. Or else (which is better) roast them in hot - ashes. They will not be done in less than an hour and a half, perhaps - longer. Then wipe them clean, and serve them up in the skins. Eat them - from the skins, with cold butter and a tea-spoon. - </p> - <p> - <i>To Stew Sweet Potatos.</i>—Wash and wipe them. Then scrape off - the skins with a sharp knife. Split them, and cut them into long pieces. - Stew them with fresh pork, veal, or beef; first putting at the bottom a - very little butter or water to start them, and then the gravy of the meat - will suffice for cooking them—skimming it well. Water to stew should - be hot. - </p> - <p> - <i>Mashed Sweet Potatos</i> are very nice. When well boiled, mash them - smoothly with a potato beetle. Mix them with fresh butter, and then stir - them well, or beat them with a large wooden spoon to render them light. - Afterwards, you may make them into round thick cakes, and touch the - surface of every one with pepper—red or black. This is a breakfast - dish for company.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[382]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED TURNIPS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have all your turnips nearly of the same size. Pare them; and if large cut - them in half. Put them into boiling water, very slightly salted, and keep - them closely covered. Twenty minutes will boil them if very small and - young; their flavor is then very fine. Afterwards, according to their - size, they will require of gentle boiling, from three-quarters to a full - hour. Keep them boiling till, on trying them with a fork, you find them - perfectly tender all through. Then take them up, drain them well, and pour - melted butter over them; touch the top of each with a spot of black - pepper. If very old and spongy, they are only fit for the pig barrel. It - is said that if boiled in their skins, (though requiring a much longer - time to cook well) they have a fine flavor, and are less watery. You can - try it. - </p> - <p> - If the turnips are to be mashed, cut them into small pieces, boil them - very soft, and drain and squeeze them till all the water is pressed out. - Then mash them very smooth. Transfer them to a deep dish, and mix them - with a <i>moderate portion</i> of fresh butter. Turnips are generally - served with too much butter. Season them with pepper. When sent to table - take care not to set them in a sunny place, as it will give them a bad - taste. - </p> - <p> - Turnips, baked in an oven, are very good—for a change. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SYDNEY SMITH'S SALAD-DRESSING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready two well-boiled potatos, peeled and<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[383]</a></span> rubbed through a sieve; - they will give peculiar smoothness to the mixture. Also, a very small - portion of raw onion, not more than a <i>quarter</i> of a tea-spoonful, - (as the presence of the onion is to be scarcely hinted,) and the pounded - yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix these ingredients on a deep plate with - one tea-spoonful of salt, one of made mustard, three table-spoonfuls of - olive oil, and one table-spoonful of vinegar. Add, lastly, a tea-spoonful - of essence of anchovy; mash, and mix the whole together, (using a boxwood - spoon) and see that all the articles are thoroughly amalgamated. Having - cut up a sufficiency of lettuce, that has been well washed in cold water, - and drained, add to it the dressing immediately before dinner, mixing the - lettuce through it with a boxwood fork. - </p> - <p> - This salad dressing was invented by the Rev. Sydney Smith, whose genius as - a writer and a wit is well known on both sides the Atlantic. If <i>exactly</i> - followed, it will be found very fine on trial; no peculiar flavor - predominating, but excellent as a whole. The above directions are taken - from a manuscript receipt given by Mr. Smith to an American gentleman then - in London. - </p> - <p> - In preparing this, or any other salad-dressing, take care not to use that - excessively pungent and deleterious combination of drugs which is now so - frequently imposed upon the public, as <i>the best white wine vinegar</i>. - In reality, it has no vinous material about it; and it may be known by its - violent and disagreeable sharpness, which overpowers<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[384]</a></span> and destroys the taste (and - also the substance) of whatever it is mixed with. It is also very - unwholesome. Its color is always pale, and it is nearly as clear as water. - No one should buy or use it. The first quality of <i>real</i> cider - vinegar is good for all purposes. - </p> - <p> - The above receipt may be tried for lobster dressing. - </p> - <p> - A Spanish proverb says, that for compounding a <i>good</i> salad, four - persons are required—a spend-thrift for oil; a miser for vinegar; a - man of judgment for salt; and a madman for stirring the dressing. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE CHICKEN SALAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having skinned a pair of cold fowls, remove the fat, and carve them as if - for eating; cut all the flesh entirely from the bones, and either mince it - or divide it into small shreds. Mix with it a little smoked tongue or cold - ham, grated rather than chopped. Have ready one or two fine fresh - lettuces, picked, washed, drained, and cut small. Put the cut lettuce on a - dish, (spreading it evenly,) or into a large bowl, and place upon it the - minced chicken in a close heap in the centre. For the dressing, mix - together the following ingredients, in the proportion of the yolks of four - eggs well beaten, a tea-spoonful of powdered white sugar, a salt-spoon of - cayenne; (no salt if you have ham or tongue with the chicken,) two - tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, six table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and five - of celery vinegar. Stir this mixture well: put it into a small<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[385]</a></span> - sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and let it boil three minutes,(not more,) - stirring it all the time. Then set it to cool. When quite cold, cover with - it thickly, the heap of chicken in the centre of the salad. To ornament - it, have ready half a dozen or more, hard-boiled eggs, which, after the - shell is peeled off, must be thrown directly into a pan of cold water to - prevent them from turning blue. Cut each egg (white and yolk together) - lengthways into four long pieces of equal size and shape; lay the pieces - upon the salad all round the heap of chicken, and close to it; placing - them so as to follow each other round in a slanting direction, something - in the form of a circular wreath of leaves. Have ready, also, some very - red cold beet, cut into small cones or points all of equal size; arrange - them in a circle upon the lettuce, outside of the circle of cut egg. To be - decorated in this manner, the salad should be placed in a dish rather than - a bowl. In helping it, give each person a portion of every thing, and they - will mix them together on their plates. - </p> - <p> - This salad should be prepared immediately before dinner or supper; as - standing long will injure it. The colder it is the better. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CARROTS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having washed the carrots, and scraped off the outer skin with a sharp - knife, or taken off a very thin paring, split them a few inches down, - leaving a long cleft in the upper half only, and put them on to cook in - plenty of boiling<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[386]</a></span> - water, with a little salt in it. There is no table vegetable that needs - more boiling than a carrot. Small young carrots require at least half an - hour. If large, they must boil from one to two hours, according to their - size. When you find them tender throughout, dish them, with melted butter - poured round them. They are eaten plain, only with boiled beef or boiled - mutton. They are often added to soups and stews, when they must be put in - long before the other vegetables. For soups and stews the nicest way is to - grate them (before boiling,) on a coarse grater. This way they improve - both the taste and color. - </p> - <p> - Carrots are very nice, sliced thin after boiling, put into a sauce-pan, - with bits of butter dredged with flour, seasoned with pepper, and stewed - soft without any water. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PARSNIPS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Scrape the parsnips, and split them half way down. Put them into boiling - water with a little salt. Parsnips require less boiling than carrots; and, - according to their size, will take from half an hour to an hour. Skim the - water while they are boiling. When quite tender take them up, drain them, - dish them, and pour melted butter over them. They are especially eaten - with corned pork, or salted cod; but are good with various things. They - are excellent stewed with fresh beef, or fresh pork, for a plain dinner. - </p> - <p> - <i>Fried Parsnips</i> make a nice breakfast dish.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[387]</a></span> They must first be - parboiled; then split, and cut into long pieces, and fried brown in fresh - butter, or in nice dripping of veal or beef. - </p> - <p> - <i>Baked Parsnips.</i>—Split and parboil them. Then place them in a - large dish. Lay among them some bits of fresh butter, and bake them brown. - Eat them with any sort of roast meat. - </p> - <p> - <i>Parsnip Fritters.</i>—Boil and peel half a dozen large parsnips, - and then split and cut them in pieces. Make a nice batter, allowing four - beaten eggs to a pint of milk, and four table-spoonfuls of flour. Have - ready over the fire, a frying-pan with boiling lard. Put in a large - spoonful of batter; upon that a piece of parsnip, and cover it with - another spoonful of batter. Proceed thus till you have used up the - parsnips. When done, drain them from the lard, and serve them hot at - breakfast or dinner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEETS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Beets must be washed very clean, but not scraped, trimmed, or cut till - after they are boiled. Put them on in boiling water; and, according to - their size, boil them steadily from one hour and a half, to two hours and - a half, but they must not be probed (to ascertain if they are tender all - through,) but pinched with the fingers. Then peel off the skins, and trim - them neatly. Hold the beet in a pan of cold water while you peel it. Do it - quickly. Serve them up either split or sliced, with melted butter poured - over them, and seasoned with pepper. Or else they<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[388]</a></span> may be sliced thick, - (allowing them to get cold,) and spiced vinegar poured over them. Red - beets are usually dressed with vinegar; the white or pale ones with melted - butter. - </p> - <p> - <i>Baked Beets</i> have a finer flavor, and are more nutritious than when - boiled. Wash and wipe them dry, but do not skin or cut them till after - cooking. They must be thoroughly done before they are taken out of the - oven, and then pared and trimmed. According to their size they will - require from four to six hours baking. Their blood-red color makes them - ornamental to the table; but when cooked in soups or stews they add little - to the taste, which is overpowered by that of other ingredients. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SQUASHES OR CYMLINGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - See that the squashes are not turning old, and hardening. Wash them, and - cut them into four pieces each; but do not split them. Put them on in - boiling water, with a little salt. Boil them steadily till quite tender - throughout. Then take them up, and mash or drain them through a cullender, - pressing them with a broad short-handled wooden ladle. All the water (of - which there will be a profusion,) must be entirely squeezed out. Serve - them up very dry, and smoothly and evenly mashed, having first mixed with - them a <i>very little butter</i>; and season them with very little pepper. - Much butter gives them a disagreeable taste and consistence, and the - butter should be fresh and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" - id="Page_389">[389]</a></span> good. It is better to mash squashes, - turnips, pumpkins, &c., without any butter, than to use that which is - salt and bad. The flat white ones are the best summer squashes; the - striped green are more watery; the cashaw, or yellow winter squash, is - best of all, and grows well in the New England states, from whence, as it - keeps well all winter, it is often brought in barrels. Every family should - get a barrel of winter squashes from Boston. They do not thrive in the - middle States. In New Jersey and Pennsylvania, they cannot be raised even - from the best yankee seed, turning pumpkinish the next year, and - afterwards becoming quite pumpkins, and very bad ones too. But when raised - in their native soil and climate nothing of the squash kind is equal to - them. They are very dry and sweet, and of a rich yellow color. Take them - out of the barrel, and keep them far apart on the shelves or floor of a - dry pantry. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED PUMPKIN.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - No pumpkin is too large to be good, but they may be too old. Cut a good - deep-colored pumpkin in half, and empty out all the seeds, &c. Then - cut it into pieces, and pare them. Put the pieces of pumpkin into a pot - with barely sufficient water to keep them from burning. When they are - thoroughly done or soft all through, take them up; drain, mash, and press - them through a cullender. They must be <i>very</i> dry. Put the stewed - pumpkin into a dish, and mix it with a small portion of butter. Season it<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[390]</a></span> with - black pepper, and eat it with boiled corned beef, or corned pork, or - bacon. - </p> - <p> - Stewed pumpkin is chiefly used for pies and puddings. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - YANKEE PUMPKIN PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pint of stewed pumpkin. Mix together a pint of <i>West India</i> - molasses and a pint of milk, adding two large table-spoonfuls of brown - sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of ground ginger. Beat three eggs very - light, and stir them, gradually, into the milk and molasses. Then, by - degrees, stir in the stewed pumpkin. Put it into a deep dish, and bake it - without a crust. This is a good farm-house pudding, and <i>equally</i> - good for any healthy children. - </p> - <p> - For a large family, double the quantities of ingredients—that is, - take a quart of milk, a quart of molasses, four spoonfuls of brown sugar, - four spoonfuls of ginger, six eggs, and a quart of stewed pumpkin. - </p> - <p> - You had best have at hand <i>more than a quart</i> of pumpkin, lest when - mixed it should not hold out. This pudding is excellent made of winter - squash. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED MUSHROOMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Peel and wash a quart of very fresh mushrooms, and cut off all the stems. - Button mushrooms are best; but if you can only procure large ones, quarter - them. Sprinkle them slightly with salt and pepper, and put them into a - stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of nice fresh butter, cut in pieces and<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[391]</a></span> slightly - dredged with flour. Keep the lid closely covered all the time. When quite - tender, put the mushrooms into a deep dish, in the bottom of which is laid - a nice toast that has had all the crust pared off, and been dipped for a - minute in hot water, and slightly buttered. Serve up the mushrooms closely - covered. They require no seasoning. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED MUSHROOMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take large fine fresh mushrooms. Peel them and remove the stems. Lay them - on their backs in a large dish, (not letting them touch each other) and - put into each mushroom, (as in a cup) a bit of the best fresh butter. Set - the dish in an oven and bake them. Send them to table in the same dish; or - transfer them to another, with a large toast at the bottom. There is no - better way of cooking mushrooms than this. - </p> - <p> - If you cannot procure good butter, cook them in nice olive oil. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO BOIL INDIAN CORN.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Corn for boiling should be full grown, but young and tender, and the - grains soft and milky. If its grains are becoming hard and yellow, it is - too old for cooking. Strip the ears of their leaves and the silk. Put them - into a large pot of boiling water, and boil it rather fast for half an - hour or more, in proportion to its size and age. When done, take it up, - drain it, dish it under a cover, or napkin,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[392]</a></span> and serve it up hot. Before - eating it, rub each ear with salt and pepper, and then spread it with - butter. Epicures in corn consider it sweetest when eaten off the cob. And - so it is; but <i>before company</i> few persons like to hold an ear of - indian corn in their hands, and bite the grains off the cob with their - teeth. Therefore, it is more frequently cut off the cob into a dish; mixed - with salt, pepper, and butter, and helped with a spoon. - </p> - <p> - It is said that young green corn will boil sufficiently in ten minutes, - (putting it, <i>of course</i>, into a pot of boiling water.) Try it. - </p> - <p> - <i>Another way.</i>—Having pulled off the silk, boil the corn - without removing any but the outside leaves. With the leaves or husk on, - it will require a longer time to cook, but is sweeter and more nutritious. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HOMINY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Hominy is white indian corn, shelled from the cob, divested of the outer - skin by scalding in hot lye, and then winnowed and dried. It is perfectly - white. Having washed it through two or three waters, pour boiling water on - it; cover it, and let it soak all night, or for several hours. Then put it - into a pot or sauce-pan, allow two quarts of water to each quart of - hominy, and boil it till perfectly soft. Then drain it, put it into a deep - dish, add some butter to it, and send it to table hot, (and <i>uncovered</i>,) - to eat with any sort of meat; but particularly with corned beef or pork. - What is left may be made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_393" - id="Page_393">[393]</a></span> next day into thick cakes, and fried in - butter. To be <i>very good</i>, hominy should boil four or five hours. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAROLINA GRITS OR SMALL HOMINY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The small-grained hominy must be washed and boiled in the same manner as - the large, only allow rather less water for boiling. For instance, put a - pint and a half of water to a quart of small hominy. Drain it well, send - it to table in a deep dish <i>without a cover</i>, and eat it with butter - and sugar, or molasses. If covered after boiling, the vapor will condense - within the lid, and make the hominy thin and watery. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SAMP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is indian corn skinned, and then pounded or ground till it is still - smaller and finer than the Carolina grits. It must be cooked and used in - the same manner. It is very nice eaten with cream and sugar. - </p> - <p> - For invalids it may be made thin, and eaten as gruel. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HOMINY CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A pint of small hominy, or Carolina grits; a pint of white indian meal, - sifted; a salt-spoonful of salt, three large table-spoonfuls of fresh - butter; three eggs or three table-spoonfuls of strong yeast; a quart of - milk. Having washed the small hominy, and left it soaking all night, boil - it soft, drain it, and while hot mix it with the indian meal; adding<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[394]</a></span> the - salt, and the butter. Then mix it gradually with the milk, and set it away - to cool. Beat the eggs very light, and add them gradually to the mixture. - The whole should make a thick batter. Then bake them on a griddle, in the - manner of buckwheat cakes, rubbing or scraping the griddle always before - you put on a fresh cake. Trim off their edges nicely, and send them to - table hot. Eat them with butter. - </p> - <p> - Or you may bake them in muffin rings. - </p> - <p> - If you prefer making these cakes with yeast, you must begin them earlier, - as they will require time to rise. The yeast should be strong and fresh. - If <i>not</i> very strong, use four table-spoonfuls instead of two. Cover - the pan, set it in a warm place; and do not begin to bake till it is well - risen, and the surface of the mixture is covered with bubbles. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CORN PORRIDGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take young corn, and cut the grains from the cob. Measure it, and to each - heaping pint of corn allow not quite a quart of milk. Put the corn and - milk into a pot, stir them well together, and boil them till the corn is - perfectly soft. Then add some bits of fresh butter dredged with flour, and - let it boil five minutes longer. Stir in at the last, four beaten yolks of - eggs, and in three minutes remove it from the fire. Take up the porridge - and send it to table hot, and stir some fresh butter into it. You may add - sugar and nutmeg.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[395]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CORN OYSTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Three dozen ears of large young indian corn, six eggs; lard and butter in - equal portions for frying. The corn must be young and soft. Grate it from - the cob as fine as possible, and dredge it with wheat flour. Beat very - light the six eggs, and mix them gradually with the corn. Then let the - whole be well incorporated by hard beating. Add a salt-spoon of salt. - </p> - <p> - Have ready, in a frying pan, a sufficient quantity of lard and fresh - butter mixed together. Set it over the fire till it is boiling hot, and - then put in portions of the corn mixture, so as to form oval cakes about - three inches long, and nearly an inch thick. Fry them brown, and send them - to table hot. In taste they will be found to have a singular resemblance - to fried oysters, and are universally liked if properly done. They make - nice side-dishes at dinner, and are very good at breakfast. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SUMMER SACCATASH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - String a quarter of a peck of young green beans, and cut each bean into - three pieces, (not more,) and do not split them. Have by you a pan of cold - water, and throw the beans into it as you cut them. Have ready over the - fire a pot or sauce-pan of boiling water; put in the beans, and boil them - hard near twenty minutes. Afterwards take them up, and drain them well - through a cullender. Take half a dozen ears of young but full-grown indian - corn, (or eight or nine if they are not all large) and cut<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[396]</a></span> the - grains down from the cob. Mix together the corn and the beans, adding a - very small tea-spoonful of salt, and boil them about twenty minutes. Then - take up the saccatash, drain it well through a sieve, put it into a deep - dish, and while hot mix in a large piece of butter, (at least the size of - an egg,) add some pepper, and send it to table. It is generally eaten with - salted or smoked meat. - </p> - <p> - Fresh Lima beans are excellent cooked in this manner, with green corn. - They must be boiled for half an hour or more, before they are cooked with - the corn. - </p> - <p> - Dried beans and dried corn will do very well for saccatash, but they must - be soaked all night before boiling. The water poured on them for soaking - should be hot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WINTER SACCATASH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is made of dried shelled beans and hard corn, soaked over night in - separate pans, and boiling water poured over them in the morning, after - pouring off the first water. Then boil both together till they are <i>quite - soft</i>. Drain them dry in a sieve, put them into a deep dish, and mix in - a large piece of butter, seasoned with pepper. This is a good - accompaniment to corned pork or beef. The meat must be boiled in a - separate pot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAROLINA WAY OF BOILING RICE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick the rice carefully, and wash it through two<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[397]</a></span> or three cold waters till - it is quite clean. Then (having drained off all the water through a - cullender,) put the rice into a pot of boiling water, with a very little - salt, allowing as much as a quart of water to half a pint of rice. Boil it - twenty minutes or more. Then pour off the water, draining the rice as dry - as possible. Lastly, set it on hot coals with the lid off, that the steam - may not condense upon it and render the rice watery. Keep it drying thus - for a quarter of an hour. Put it into a deep dish, and loosen and toss it - up from the bottom with two forks, one in each hand, so that the grains - may appear to stand alone. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TOMATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Tomatos require long cooking; otherwise they will have a raw taste, and be - quite too acid. Take fine tomatos that are quite ripe, put them into a - pan, and scald them in very hot water. Let them remain for ten minutes, or - till you can peel them without scalding your hands. Drain them through a - sieve. You may either press out all the seeds, (retaining only the pulp or - liquid,) or leave the seeds in, squeezing the tomatos slightly. Put them - into a stew-pan, which must on no account be of copper, as the acid of the - tomatos will render it poisonous. We knew a lady who died in agonies from - eating tomatos cooked in a copper vessel that had the tinning partly worn - off. If the tin inside is indispensable, (which it is) why have any copper - about it? A vessel of <i>double</i> block tin only, will last as long,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[398]</a></span> and - stand the fire as well as if there was copper inside. For all stews, an - iron pan, lined with delft (or what is called porcelain or enamel) is - excellent. Best of all for stewing tomatos, and many other things, is a <i>bain - marie</i>, or double kettle, with the water outside, in the outer kettle. - </p> - <p> - Having nearly filled the stew-pan with the tomatos, (cut up, if they are - large) add a little salt and pepper, a piece of fresh butter dredged with - flour, and (if approved) a very little chopped onion. If you have - ready-boiled onions at hand, take one or two of them and mince it fine. - Add to the tomatos some powdered white sugar to lessen the excessive acid. - Put but very few bread-crumbs—if too many, they will weaken the - taste. Tomatos are an improvement to every kind of plain soups, and may be - added, with advantage, after the soup is in the tureen. The cooking of - tomatos should be commenced at least three hours before dinner. Put no - water with them—their own juice is sufficient. - </p> - <p> - Many persons like tomatos raw, sliced like cucumbers, and seasoned with - vinegar and pepper. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO KEEP TOMATO PULP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having boiled them till entirely dissolved, (adding a little salt and - pepper) press and strain them through a sieve, pour the liquor into pint - or half-pint bottles, (which must be perfectly clean) and stand the - bottles up in a large iron pot or oven, with a layer of straw in the - bottom. Fill up the pot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_399" - id="Page_399">[399]</a></span> with cold water, cork them tightly, and let - the water boil round the bottles for five hours. As it boils away, fill up - with more hot water. When you take them out, put a spoonful of salad oil - at the top of each bottle; seal the bottles with rosin cement. This pulp - will be good for tomato purposes till next summer, if kept in a cool dry - place. When you open a bottle use it fast, or cork it again immediately. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BROILED TOMATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the very largest and ripest tomatos. Wash, but do not scald or peel - them. Cut the tomatos <i>half</i> apart on four sides, extract the seeds, - and fill each tomato with a nice forcemeat of stuffing, made of - bread-crumbs, butter, minced veal or pork, mace, nutmeg, and sweet - marjoram. Having stewed this stuffing in a sauce-pan, (moistening it with - tomato juice, or gravy) fill all the tomatos with it, opening them out a - little like the leaves of a tulip. Butter slightly a heated gridiron, and - broil them on it. Or, they may be baked in an oven. - </p> - <p> - This is a dish for company, either at dinner or breakfast. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BUTTON TOMATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - These are the very smallest tomatos, and are excellent for pickling and - preserving. If quite ripe, and free from blemishes, they will keep very - well in cold vinegar, and are the easiest done of all pickles. There are - two sorts of button tomatos, the red and the yel<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[400]</a></span>low, both equally good. Wipe - every tomato clean and dry, and put them into small glass jars that have a - cover. Fill the jars two-thirds with the tomatos, and then fill up to the - top with the best cider vinegar. On the top put a table-spoonful of salad - oil, and cover them closely. They require nothing to secure their keeping - well. But the taste will be improved, by putting in with them, three very - small thin muslin bags, each containing mace, nutmeg, and ginger, broken - small, but not powdered. Lay one bag of spice at the bottom of the jar; - one about the middle, and one near the top. If done without spice, they - are the cheapest of all pickles. Do not put them into soups or stews; but - eat them cold with meat, like other pickles. - </p> - <p> - If kegs of these tomatos were carried to sea, and liberally served out to - the crew, the scurvy would be less frequent, even on long voyages. - </p> - <p> - Large whole tomatos would do for this purpose. We wish it were the - universal custom in ships to take out with them plenty of tomatos kept in - this way in vinegar. Tomato catchup is now much used for the army—so - it should be for the navy; not only for the sick, but for the well; to - keep them well.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[401]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="BREAD_PLAIN_CAKES_etc" id="BREAD_PLAIN_CAKES_etc"></a>BREAD, - PLAIN CAKES, etc. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - HINTS ON HEATING OVENS AND BAKING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Brick ovens are generally heated with dry fagots or small branches, or - with light split wood. For baking bread, the oven-wood must be heavier - than for pies. A heap of wood should be placed in the centre of the oven - on the brick floor, and then set on fire. While the wood is burning, the - door of the oven must be left open. When the wood is all burnt down, and - reduced to a mass of small red coals, the oven will be very hot. Then - shovel out all the coals and sweep the oven floor with a broom, till it is - perfectly clean, and entirely free from ashes. Try the heat within. For - baking bread, the floor of the oven should look red, and a little flour - thrown in should burn brown immediately. If you can hold your hand within - the mouth of the oven as long as you can distinctly count twenty, the heat - is about right. Pies, puddings, &c., require less heat. When a brick - oven is used, a peel, or large broad-bladed long-handled wooden shovel is - necessary for putting in the bread, pies, &c., placing them on the - broad or shovel-end of the peel, and slipping them off on the oven floor. - Then close up the door of the oven, and leave the things to bake. When - done, slip the peel beneath them, and hand them out on it. - </p> - <p> - To bake in an Iron Dutch oven, (a large deep, cast-iron pan, with a - handle, a close-fitting lid, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_402" - id="Page_402">[402]</a></span> standing on three or four feet,) you must - first stand the lid upright before a clear fire to heat the inside; and it - will be best if the oven itself is also stood up before the fire for the - same purpose. This should be done while the article to be baked is - preparing, that it may be put in as soon as it is ready. The oven may be - suspended to the crane, and hung over the fire, or it may be set on a bed - of hot wood coals in the corner of the hearth. As soon as the loaf or pie - is in, put on the lid of the oven, and cover it all over with hot coals, - replenishing it with more live coals as the baking proceeds. If you find - it too hot on the top, deaden it with ashes. If the oven stands on the - hearth, keep up the heat at the bottom, by additional live coals placed - beneath it. Whether the oven is hung over the fire, or stood on the - hearth, there must always be hot coals all over the lid, the hottest near - the edge. - </p> - <p> - To bake on a griddle, you may either hang it over the fire, or set it over - hot coals on the hearth. Most griddles have feet. The fire must be quite - clear and bright, and free from smoke, or the cakes will be blackened, and - have a disagreeable taste. The griddle must be perfectly clean; and while - you are baking, it will require frequent scraping, with a broad knife. If - it is well scraped after every cake is taken off, it will not want - greasing, as there will be no stickiness. Otherwise, some butter tied up - in a clean rag and laid on a saucer, must be kept at hand all the time, to - rub over the griddle between the baking of each<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[403]</a></span> cake; for butter, lard, or - nice beef or veal dripping may be substituted, but it will not be so fine. - Never grease with mutton fat, as it will communicate the taste of tallow. - A bit of the fat of <i>fresh</i> pork may do, (stuck on a fork,) but salt - pork will give the outside of the cakes a disagreeable saltness, and - therefore should not be used. - </p> - <p> - A griddle may be placed in the oven of a hot stove. Some close stoves have - a hole in the top with a flat lid or cover, which lid can be used as a - griddle. - </p> - <p> - The tin-reflecting ovens (with shelves for the pies and cakes) that are - used for baking in the summer, and that, having a furnace beneath, and a - chimney-pipe, can be set out of doors, so that the kitchen may not be kept - hot, are very good for things that will bake soon, and that do not require - what is called a strong, solid heat. But they are not effective unless the - inside is kept <i>very bright</i>; otherwise it will not reflect the heat. - The tin ovens should (as well as tin roasters) be cleaned thoroughly and - scoured bright with sand every time they are used. - </p> - <p> - The art of baking with anthracite, (or any other mineral coal,) can only - be acquired by practice. The above hints on baking, refer exclusively to - wood fires. - </p> - <p> - When a charcoal furnace is used for baking, stewing, or any sort of - cooking, it should either be set out in the open air, or the door of the - kitchen must be kept open all the time. The<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[404]</a></span> vapor of charcoal in a - close room is so deleterious as to cause death. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DRIED CORN MEAL YEAST CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Half a pound of fresh hops, four quarts of water, a pint of wheat or rye - flour, half a pint of strong fresh yeast from the brewer or baker, three - pints or more of indian meal. Boil half a pound of fresh hops in four - quarts of water, till the liquid is reduced to two quarts. Strain it into - a pan, and mix in sufficient wheat flour to make a thin batter, adding - half a pint of the best yeast you can procure. Leave it to ferment; and - when the fermentation is over, stir in sufficient indian meal to make a - moderately stiff dough. Cover it, and set in a warm place to rise. When it - has become very light, roll it out into a square sheet an inch thick, and - cut it into flat cakes, about four inches square. Spread them out - separately, on a large dish, and let them dry slowly in a cool place where - there is no sun. While drying, turn them five or six times a day. When - they are quite dry and hard, put them, separately, into brown paper bags, - and keep them in a box closely covered, and in a place not the least damp. - </p> - <p> - When you want them to use for yeast, dissolve in a little warm water one - or more of the cakes, in proportion to the quantity of bread you intend - making. When it is quite dissolved, stir it hard, thicken it with a little - wheat flour, cover it, and place it near the fire to rise, before you use - it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[405]</a></span>. - Then mix it with the flour, according to the usual manner of making bread. - One yeast cake is enough for two quarts of meal or flour. - </p> - <p> - This way of preserving yeast is very convenient for keeping through the - summer, or for conveying to a distance. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EXCELLENT HOME-MADE YEAST.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Yeast should always be kept in a glass bottle or a stone jug, and never in - earthen or metal. Before you make fresh yeast, empty entirely the vessel - that has contained the last; and if of stone, scald it twice with boiling - water, in which it will be well to mix a little clear lye. Then rince it - with cold water, till perfectly clean. If you have not used lye in - scalding it, dissolve some potash or pearlash in the rinsing water, to - remove any acidity that may linger about the vessel, and may therefore - spoil the new yeast. If you keep your yeast in glass bottles, the water - must be warm, but not hot; as scalding water may crack them: also, melt - some potash or pearlash in this water. The vessel for keeping it being - purified, proceed to make your yeast. Have ready, in a kettle over the - fire, two quarts of boiling water; put into it a very large handful of - hops, (as fine and fresh as possible,) and let the water boil again with - the hops in it for twenty minutes more. Sift into a pan three pints of - wheat flour. Strain the liquor from the hops into a large bowl, and pour - half of it hot over the flour. Stir it well, and press out all the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[406]</a></span> lumps - till it is quite smooth. Let the other half of the liquid stand till it is - cool, and then pour it gradually to the rest; mixing it well, by stirring - as you proceed. Then take half a pint of good strong yeast—brewer's - or baker's yeast, if you can get it fresh; if not, you must use some that - has been left from your last making, provided it is not the least sour; - stir this yeast into the mixture of hop water and flour, put it - immediately into your jug or bottles, and cork it loosely till the - fermentation is over, (which should be in an hour,) and it will then be - fit for use. Afterwards cork it tightly. It will keep better if you put a - raisin or two into the bottom of each bottle, before you pour in the fresh - yeast. Into a stone jug put half a dozen raisins. - </p> - <p> - All yeast is better and more powerful for being fresh. It is better to - make it frequently, (the trouble being little,) than to risk its becoming - sour by endeavoring to keep it too long. When sour it becomes weak and - watery, and tastes and smells disagreeably, and will never make light - bread; besides, being very unwholesome. The acidity may be somewhat - corrected by stirring in some dissolved pearlash, saleratus, or soda, - immediately before the yeast is used; but it is better to have it good and - fresh, without the necessity of any corrective. Yeast should always be - kept in a cool place. - </p> - <p> - Those who live in towns where there are breweries have no occasion to make - their own yeast during the brewing season, and in summer they<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[407]</a></span> can - every day supply themselves with fresh yeast from the baker's. It is only - in country places where there are neither brewers or bakers that it is - expedient to make it at home. For home-made yeast, we know the above - receipt to be excellent. - </p> - <p> - Sweet cakes, buns, rusks, &c., require stronger and fresher yeast than - bread; the sugar will otherwise retard their rising. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN BREAD OR PONE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Four quarts of indian meal sifted, a large half pint of wheat flour, a - table-spoonful of salt, half a pint of strong fresh yeast, a quart of warm - water. Sift into a large deep pan the indian meal and the wheat flour, - mixing them well. Make a hole in the centre. The water must be warm, but - not hot. Mix it with the yeast, and pour them into the hole in the midst - of the meal. Take a spoon, and with it mix into the liquid enough of the - surrounding meal to make a thin batter, which you must stir till it is - quite smooth, and free from lumps. Then strew a handful of wheat flour - over the surface, scattering it thinly, so as to cover the whole. Warm a - clean cloth, and lay it folded over the top of the pan. Then set it in a - warm place to rise, nearer the fire in winter than in summer. When it is - quite light, and has risen so that the flour on the surface is cracked, - strew on the salt, and begin to form the whole mass into a dough; - commencing round the hole that contains the batter, and adding, gradually,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[408]</a></span> - sufficient lukewarm water (which you must have ready for the purpose,) to - mix it of the proper consistence. When the whole is completely mixed, and - the batter in the centre is thoroughly incorporated with the dough, knead - it hard for at least half an hour. Then, having formed the dough into a - round lump in the middle of the pan, strew a little more flour thinly over - it. Cover it, and set it again in a warm place for half an hour. Then - flour your pasteboard, divide the dough equally, and make it into two - loaves. Have the oven ready. Put in the loaves directly, and bake them - about two hours or more. Indian meal requires always more baking than - wheat. When you take them out, it is well to wrap each loaf in a clean, - coarse towel, well sprinkled with cold water, and rolled up damp till the - bread is baked. Having thus wrapped up the loaves, stand them on end to - cool slowly. The damp cloths will prevent the crust from hardening too - much while the loaves are cooling. - </p> - <p> - All indian bread, and every sort of indian cake, is best when quite fresh. - </p> - <p> - Excellent bread may be made of equal proportions of wheat, rye flour, and - indian corn; or of three parts wheat and one part indian. All bread should - be kept closely secluded from the air, wrapped in cloths, and put away in - boxes or baskets with tightly-fitting lids. - </p> - <p> - Should you find the dough sour, (either from the heat of the weather, or - from standing too long,) you may recover it, by dissolving in a little<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">[409]</a></span> lukewarm - water a tea-spoonful of pearlash, saleratus, or soda. Sprinkle this water - all over the dough. Then knead it in, so that it may be dispersed - throughout. Then put it into the oven as soon as possible; first tasting - the dough, to discover if the sourness is entirely removed. If not, mix in - a little more pearlash, and then taste it again. Take care not to put in - too much of any of these alkaline substances, lest they communicate a - disagreeable, soapy taste to the bread. - </p> - <p> - When you buy corn meal, it will keep better if the whole is sifted as soon - as you get it. Avoid buying much at a time, unless you can keep it in a - very cool place. When sour, it is unfit to eat. Common indian meal is much - the best for use. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN RYE BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Two quarts of indian meal, two quarts of rye meal, three pints of milk or - water, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a pint of strong fresh yeast. - Having sifted the rye and indian meal in a large pan, mix them well - together, adding the salt. Boil the milk or water in a sauce-pan, and when - scalding hot pour it on the meal, and stir the whole very hard. If too - stiff, add a little more warm water. Let it stand till it becomes only of - a lukewarm heat, and then stir in the yeast. Knead the mixture into a - stiff dough, and knead it long and hard for at least half an hour. Then - cover the pan with a thick cloth that has been previously warmed, and set - it near the fire to rise. When<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_410" - id="Page_410">[410]</a></span> the dough is quite light, and cracked all - over the top, take it out of the pan; divide the mass in half, make it - into two loaves, knead each loaf well for ten minutes or more, and then - cover and set them again near the fire for about half an hour. By this - time have the oven ready, put in the loaves directly, and bake them at - least an hour and a half. This bread is considered very wholesome. - </p> - <p> - Should you find the dough sour, you may rectify it by kneading in a - tea-spoonful of soda or pearlash, dissolved in a little warm water. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN WHEAT BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is made in the above manner, substituting wheat for rye flour. - </p> - <p> - In any sort of home-made bread, (either white or brown) a handful or more - of indian meal will be found an improvement, rendering it moist and sweet. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOSTON RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Two quarts of indian meal, two quarts of rye meal, half a pint of strong - fresh yeast, half a pint of West India molasses, a small table-spoonful of - salt. Sift the rye and indian meal into a large pan or wooden bowl; and - mix them well together, adding a little salt. Have ready half a pint of - water, warm but not hot. Mix with it the molasses, and then stir into it - the yeast. Make a hole in the middle of the pan of meal, pour in<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">[411]</a></span> the - liquid, and then with a spoon work into it a portion of the flour that - surrounds the hole, till the liquid in the centre becomes a thick batter. - Sprinkle the top with rye meal, lay a thick cloth over the pan, and set it - in a warm place to rise. In three or four hours it should be light enough - to appear cracked all over the surface. Then pour into the middle (by - degrees) about a pint of warm water, (it must not be hot,) and as you pour - mix it well all through the dough, till the whole becomes a round mass. - Sprinkle some rye flour on the dough, and having floured your hands, knead - it long and hard, (at least half an hour, and after it ceases to stick to - your hands,) turning it over as you proceed. Then sprinkle the dough again - with flour, cover it, and again set it in a warm place to rise. Have the - oven ready, and of the proper heat, so that the bread may be put in as - soon as it has completely risen the second time. When perfectly light, the - dough will stand high, and the surface will be cracked all over. This - quantity will be sufficient for a common-sized loaf. Set it directly into - the oven, and bake it about two hours. When bread has done rising, it will - fall again if not put into the oven. As soon as it is done, wrap it - immediately in a clean coarse towel wet with cold water, and stand it up - on end till it is cool. - </p> - <p> - This is a palatable, cheap, and wholesome bread. It may be baked in a deep - tin or iron pan. - </p> - <p> - If the dough should have stood so long as to become sour, (which it will, - if mixed over night,)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">[412]</a></span> - restore it by kneading in a small tea-spoonful of pearlash or saleratus - melted in a little warm water. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EGG PONE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Three eggs, a quart of indian meal, a large table-spoonful of fresh - butter, a small tea-spoonful of salt, a half pint (or more) of milk. Beat - the eggs very light, and mix them with the milk. Then stir in, gradually, - the indian meal, adding the salt and butter. It must not be a batter, but - a soft dough, just thick enough to be stirred well with a spoon. If too - thin, add more indian meal; if too stiff, thin it with a little more milk. - Beat or stir it <i>long and hard</i>. Butter a tin or iron pan. Put the - mixture into it, and set the pan immediately into an oven, which must be - moderately hot at first, and the heat increased afterward. A Dutch oven is - best for this purpose. It should bake an hour and a half or two hours, in - proportion to its thickness. Send it to table hot, and cut into slices. - Eat it with butter, or molasses. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN MUSH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready on a clear fire a pot of boiling water. Stir into it, by - degrees, (a handful at a time,) sufficient indian meal to make a very - thick porridge, and then add a very small portion of salt, allowing not - more than a level tea-spoonful to a quart of meal. You must keep the pot - boiling all the time you are stirring in the meal; and between every - handful stir hard with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_413" - id="Page_413">[413]</a></span> mush-stick, (a round stick about half a - yard long, flattened at the lower end,) as, if not well stirred, the mush - will be lumpy. After it is sufficiently thick and smooth, keep it boiling - an hour longer, stirring it occasionally. Then cover the pot closely, and - hang it higher up the chimney, or set it on hot coals on the hearth, so as - to simmer it slowly for another hour. The goodness and wholesomeness of - mush depends greatly on its being long and thoroughly boiled. It should - also be made very thick. If well made, and well cooked, it is wholesome - and nutritious; but the contrary, if thin, and not sufficiently boiled. It - is not too long to have it three or four hours over the fire, first - boiling, then simmering. On the contrary, it will be better for it. The - coarser the corn meal the less cooking it requires. Send it to table hot, - and in a deep dish. Eat it with sweet milk, buttermilk, or cream, or with - butter and sugar, or with butter and molasses; making a hole in the middle - of your plate of mush, putting some butter into the hole, and then adding - the sugar or molasses. - </p> - <p> - Cold mush that has been left may be cut into slices, or mouthfuls, and - fried next day, in butter, or in nice dripping of veal, beef, or pork; but - not mutton or lamb. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN HASTY PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put two quarts of milk into a clean pot or sauce-pan. Set it over the - fire, adding a level tea-spoonful of salt,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_414" id="Page_414">[414]</a></span> and, when it comes to a - boil, stir in a lump of fresh butter about the size of a goose egg. Then - add (a handful at a time) sufficient indian meal to make it very thick, - stirring it all the while with a mush stick. Keep it boiling well, and - continue to throw in indian meal till it is so thick that the stick stands - upright in it. Then send it to table hot, and eat it with milk, cream, or - molasses and butter. What is left may be cut into slices, and fried next - day, or boiled in a bag. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN MEAL GRUEL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is an excellent food for the sick. Having sifted some indian meal, - mix in a quart bowl three table-spoonfuls of the meal with six of cold - water. Stir it smooth, and press out the lumps against the side of the - bowl. Have ready a very clean sauce-pan, entirely free from grease, with a - pint of boiling water. Pour this, scalding hot, on the mixture in the - bowl, a little at a time, and stir it well, adding a pinch of salt. Then - put the whole back into the sauce-pan. Set it on hot coals and stir it - till it boils, making the spoon go down to the bottom to prevent the gruel - from burning. After it has come to a boil, let it continue boiling half an - hour, stirring it frequently, and skimming it. Give it to the invalid - warm, in a bowl or tumbler, to be eaten with a tea-spoon. It may be - sweetened with a little sugar. When the physician permits, some grated - nutmeg may be added; also, a very little wine.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_415" id="Page_415">[415]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RYE MUSH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To make smooth rye mush, sift a quart or more of rye meal into a pan, and - gradually pour in sufficient cold water to make a very thick batter, - stirring it hard with a spoon as you proceed, and carefully pressing out - all the lumps against the side of the pan. Add a very little salt. The - batter must be so thick at the last that you can scarcely stir it. Then - thin it with a little more water, and see that it is quite smooth. Rye, - and also wheat flour, have a disposition to be more lumpy than corn meal, - when made into mush. When thoroughly mixed and stirred, put it into a pot, - place it over the fire and boil it well, stirring it with a mush-stick - till it comes to a hard boil; then place it in a diminished heat, and - simmer it slowly till you want to dish it up. Eat it warm, with butter and - molasses, or with sweet milk, or fresh buttermilk. Rye mush is considered - very wholesome, particularly in cases of dyspepsia. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COMMON HOE-CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take an earthen or tin pan, and half fill it with coarse indian meal, - which had best be sifted in. Add a little salt. Have ready a kettle of - boiling water. Pour into the indian meal sufficient hot water (a little at - a time,) to make a stiff dough, stirring it with a spoon as you proceed. - It must be thoroughly mixed, and stirred hard. If you want the cakes for - breakfast, mix this dough over night; cover the pan, and set it in a <i>cool</i> - place till morning.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">[416]</a></span> - If kept warm, it may turn sour. Early next morning, as soon as the fire is - burning well, set the griddle over it, and take out the dough, a handful - at a time. Flatten and shape it by patting it with your hands, till you - form it into cakes about the size of a common saucer, and half an inch - thick. When the griddle is quite hot, lay on it as many cakes as it will - hold, and bake them brown. When the upper side is done, slip a broad knife - beneath and turn them over. They must be baked brown on both sides. Eat - them warm, with buttermilk, sweet milk, butter, molasses, or whatever is - most convenient. If you intend these cakes for dinner or supper, mix them - as early in the day as you can, and (covering the pan) let them stand in a - cool place till wanted for baking. In cold weather you may save trouble by - mixing over night enough to last the next day for breakfast, dinner, and - supper; baking them as they are wanted for each meal. Or they may be all - baked in the morning, and eaten cold; but they are then not so palatable - as when warm. They will be less liable to stick, if before each baking the - griddle is dredged with wheat flour, or greased with a bit of fat pork - stuck on a fork. You may cover it all over with one large cake, instead of - several small ones. - </p> - <p> - This cake is so called, because in some parts of America it was customary - to bake it on the iron of a hoe, stood up before the fire. It is better - known by that name than by any other.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_417" id="Page_417">[417]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COMMON GRIDDLE CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A quart of indian meal, sufficient warm water to make a soft dough, a - small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the indian meal into a pan, and add the - salt. Make a hole in the centre of the meal, and pour in a little warm - water. Then mix it with a large, strong spoon, adding, by degrees, water - enough to make a soft dough. Flour your hands, and knead it into a large - lump—divide it into two equal portions. Flour your pasteboard, lay - on it the first lump of dough, and roll it out about an inch thick. Then, - (having already heated your griddle,) lay the cake upon it, spreading it - evenly, and make it a good round shape. It should cover the whole surface - of the griddle, which must first be greased, either with butter or lard - tied in a rag, or with a bit of fat fresh pork. Bake it well; and when one - side is well browned, turn it on the other, taking care not to break it. - Send it to table hot, cut into three-cornered pieces—split and - butter them. As soon as the first cake is sent in, put on the other to - bake. - </p> - <p> - This is one of the plainest and simplest preparations of indian cake; and - is very good when warm. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLAIN JOHNNY CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A quart of indian meal, a pint of warm water, a level tea-spoonful of - salt. Sift a quart of indian meal into a pan. Make a hole in the middle, - and pour in a pint of warm water, adding the salt. With a spoon mix the - meal and water gradually into a soft dough. Stir<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_418" id="Page_418">[418]</a></span> it very hard for a quarter - of an hour or more, till it becomes light and spongy. Then spread the - dough, smooth and evenly, on a stout, flat board. A piece of the head of a - flour barrel will serve for this purpose. Place the board nearly (but not - quite) upright, and set a smoothing-iron or a stone against the back to - support it. Bake it well. When done, cut it into squares, and send it hot - to table, split and buttered. You may eat molasses with it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VERY PLAIN INDIAN DUMPLINGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift some indian meal into a pan; add about a salt-spoon of salt to each - quart of meal, and scald it with sufficient boiling water to make a stiff - dough. Pour in the water gradually, stirring as you pour. When the dough - becomes a stiff lump divide it into equal portions; flour your hands, and - make it into thick flat dumplings, about as large round as the top of a - glass tumbler, or a breakfast cup. Dredge the dumplings on all sides with - flour, put them into a pot of boiling water, (if made sufficiently stiff - they need not be tied in cloths,) and keep them boiling hard till - thoroughly done. Try them with a fork, which must come out quite clean, - and with no clamminess sticking to it. They are an excellent appendage to - salt pork or bacon, serving them up with the meat; or they may be eaten - afterwards with butter and molasses, or with milk sweetened well with - brown sugar, and flavored with a little ground cinnamon. On no account - boil them with meat.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">[419]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN MUFFINS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A pint and a half of yellow indian meal, sifted; a handful of wheat flour; - a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; a quart of milk; four eggs; a very - small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the milk into a sauce-pan. Cut the butter - into it. Set it over the fire and warm it till the butter is very soft, - but not till it melts. Then take it off, stir it well till all mixed, and - set it away to cool. Beat four eggs very light, and when the milk is cold, - stir them into it alternately with the meal, a little at a time, of each. - Add the salt. Beat the whole very hard after it is all mixed. Then butter - some muffin-rings on the inside. Set them in a hot oven, or on a heated - griddle; pour some of the batter into each, and bake the muffins well. - Send them hot to table, continuing to bake while a fresh supply is wanted. - Pull them open with your fingers, and eat them with butter, to which you - may add molasses or honey. These muffins will be found excellent, and can - be prepared in a very short time; for instance, in three quarters or half - an hour before breakfast or tea. - </p> - <p> - This mixture may be baked in waffle-irons, as waffles. Butter them, and - have on the table a glass bowl with powdered sugar and powdered cinnamon, - to eat with these waffles. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CORN MEAL BREAKFAST CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A quart of indian meal; a handful or more of wheat flour; a large - salt-spoon of salt; a quart of warm water; an additional pint of lukewarm - water; a bit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">[420]</a></span> - of pearlash the size of a hazle-nut, or the same quantity of soda or - saleratus. Mix over night, in a large pan, the indian meal, the wheat - flour and salt. Pour on gradually a quart of warm water, (warm but not - hot,) and stir it in with a large wooden or iron spoon, so as to form a - very soft dough. Cover the pan, and set it on the dresser till morning. In - the morning thin the dough with another pint of warm water, so as to make - it into a batter, having first dissolved in the water a salt-spoonful of - powdered pearlash or saleratus, or a bit the size of a hazle-nut. Beat the - mixture hard. Then cover it, and let it stand near the fire for a quarter - of an hour before you begin to bake it. Bake it in thin cakes on a - griddle. Send them to table hot, and eat them with butter and molasses, or - honey. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN RICE CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take equal quantities of yellow indian meal and well boiled rice. Mix them - together in a pan, the meal and rice alternately, a little at a time of - each. The boiled rice may be either hot or cold; but it will be rather - best to mix it hot. Having first mixed it with a spoon, knead it well with - your hands; moistening it with a little milk or water, if you find it too - stiff. Have ready, over the fire, a heated griddle. Grease it with fresh - butter tied in a clean rag; and having made the mixture into flat round - cakes, bake them well on both sides. Eat them<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_421" id="Page_421">[421]</a></span> with butter and sugar, or - butter and molasses, or with butter alone. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PUMPKIN INDIAN CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take equal portions of indian meal, and stewed pumpkin that has been well - mashed and <i>drained very dry</i> in a sieve or cullender. Put the stewed - pumpkin in a pan, and stir the meal gradually into it, a spoonful at a - time, adding a little butter as you proceed. Mix the whole thoroughly, - stirring it very hard. If not thick enough to form a stiff dough, add a - little more indian meal. Make it into round, flat cakes, about the size of - a muffin, and bake them over the fire on a hot griddle greased with - butter. Or lay them in a square iron pan, and bake them in an oven. - </p> - <p> - Send them to table hot, and eat them with butter. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EXCELLENT BUCKWHEAT CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A quart of buckwheat meal, sifted; a level tea-spoonful of salt; a small - half pint or a large handful of indian meal; two large table-spoonfuls of - strong fresh brewer's yeast or four table-spoonfuls of home-made yeast; - sufficient lukewarm water to make a moderate batter. Mix together the - buckwheat and indian meal, and add the salt. Make a hole in the centre of - the meal, and pour in the yeast. Then stir in gradually, from a kettle, - sufficient tepid or lukewarm water to make a moderately thick batter when - united with the yeast.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_422" - id="Page_422">[422]</a></span> Cover the pan, set it in a warm place, and - leave it to rise. It should be light in about three hours. When it has - risen high, and is covered with bubbles, it is fit to bake. Have ready a - clean griddle well heated over the fire. Grease it well with a bit of - fresh butter tied in a clean white rag, and kept on a saucer near you. - Then dip out a large ladleful of the batter, and bake it on the griddle; - turning it when brown, with the cake-turner, and baking it brown on the - other side. Grease the griddle slightly between baking each cake, or - scrape it smooth with a broad knife. As fast as you bake the cakes, lay - them, several in a pile, on a hot plate. Butter them, and if of large size - cut them across into four pieces. Or send them to table to be buttered - there. Trim off the edges before they go in. - </p> - <p> - If your batter has been mixed over night, and is found sour in the - morning, dissolve a salt-spoon of pearlash or saleratus in a little - lukewarm water, stir it into the batter, let it stand a quarter of an - hour, and then bake it. The alkali will remove the acidity, and increase - the lightness of the batter. If you use soda for this purpose it will - require a tea-spoonful. - </p> - <p> - If the batter is kept at night in so cold a place as to freeze, it will be - unfit for use. Do not grease the griddle with meat-fat of any sort. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - NICE RYE BATTER CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A quart of lukewarm milk, two eggs, a large table-spoonful<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">[423]</a></span> of - fresh, brewer's yeast or two of home-made yeast; sufficient sifted rye - meal to make a moderate batter; a salt-spoon of salt; having warmed the - milk, beat the eggs very light, and stir them gradually into it, - alternately with the rye meal, adding the salt. Put in the meal, a handful - at a time, till you have the batter about as thick as for buckwheat cakes. - Then stir in the yeast, and give the batter a hard beating, seeing that it - is smooth and free from lumps. Cover the pan, and set it in a warm place - to rise. When risen high, and covered with bubbles, the batter is fit to - bake. Have ready over the fire a hot griddle, and bake the cakes in the - manner of buckwheat. Send them to table hot, and eat them with butter, - molasses, or honey. - </p> - <p> - Yeast powders, used according to the directions that accompany them, and - put in at the last, just before baking, are an improvement to the - lightness of all batter cakes, provided that real yeast or eggs are also - in the mixture. But it is not well to depend on the powders exclusively; - particularly when real yeast is to be had. The lightness produced by yeast - powders alone, is not the right sort; and though the cakes are eatable, - they are too tough and leathery to be wholesome. As <i>auxiliaries</i> to - genuine yeast, and to beaten eggs, yeast powders are excellent. But not as - the sole dependence. - </p> - <p> - Indian batter cakes may be made as above; or rye and indian meal be mixed - in equal proportions.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">[424]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIAN CUP CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - A pint and a half of yellow Indian meal; half a pint of wheat flour; a - pint and a half of <i>sour</i> milk; (buttermilk is best;) a small - tea-spoonful of saleratus or soda dissolved in warm water; two eggs; a - level tea-spoonful of salt. Sift the indian and wheat meal into a pan and - mix them well, adding the salt. If you have no buttermilk or other sour - milk at hand, turn some sweet milk sour by setting a pan of it in the sun, - or stirring in a spoonful of vinegar. Take out a small tea-cupful of the - sour milk, and reserve it to be put in at the last. Beat the eggs very - light, and then stir them, gradually, into the milk, alternately with the - meal, a little at a time of each. Lastly, dissolve the soda or saleratus, - and stir it into the cup of sour milk that has been reserved for the - purpose. It will effervesce; stir it while foaming into the mixture, which - should be a thick batter. Have ready some tea-cups, or little deep tins. - Butter them well; nearly fill them with the batter, and set them - immediately into a rather brisk oven. The cakes must be thoroughly baked - all through. When done, turn them out on large plates, and send them hot - to the breakfast or tea-table. Split them into three pieces, and eat them - with butter. - </p> - <p> - The soda will entirely remove the acidity of the milk, which will - effervesce the better for being sour at first, adding therefore to the - lightness of the cake. Taste the milk, and if you find that the slightest - sourness remains, add a little more dissolved soda.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_425" id="Page_425">[425]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - All the alkalies, pearlash, saleratus, soda, and sal-volatile, will remove - acidity, and increase lightness; but if too much is used, they will impart - a disagreeable taste. It is useless to put lemon or orange juice into any - mixture that is afterwards to have one of these alkalies, as they will - entirely destroy the flavor of the fruit. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAROLINA RICE CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having picked and washed half a pint of rice, boil it by itself till the - grains lose all form, and are dissolved into a thick mass or jelly. While - warm, mix into it a large lump of the best fresh butter, and a - salt-spoonful of salt. Pour into a bowl a moderate sized tea-cupful of - ground rice flour, and add to it as much milk as will make a tolerably - stiff batter. Stir it till it is quite smooth, and free from lumps. Then - mix it thoroughly with the boiled rice. Beat six eggs as light as - possible, and stir them, gradually, into the mixture. Bake it on a - griddle, in cakes about as large round as a saucer. Eat them warm with - butter; and have on the table, in a small bowl, some powdered white sugar - and nutmeg, for those who like it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - AUNT LYDIA'S CORN CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift into a large pan a quart of yellow corn meal, and add a level - tea-spoonful of salt, (not more.) Have ready a pint of boiling milk, - sufficient to make a soft dough. Mix the milk hot into the corn meal,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">[426]</a></span> and add - about a quarter of a pound, or half a pint of nice fresh butter. Having - beaten five eggs till very light and thick, stir them gradually into the - mixture, and set it to cool. All preparations of corn meal require much - beating and stirring. Have ready some small tin pans, about four or five - inches square, and two or three inches deep. They are especially good for - baking such cakes, (far better than patty-pans,) and are made by any - tinsmith. Grease the pans with the same butter you have used in mixing the - cakes. <i>Fill the pans to the top</i> with the above mixture, that the - heat may immediately catch the surface, and cause it to puff up high above - the edges of the pan. If properly mixed, and well beaten, there is no - danger of it running over. If only half filled, and not very light, the - mixture when baking will sink down, and become heavy and tough. Set these - cakes immediately into a moderate oven. Bake them brown, and send them to - the breakfast table hot. Split and butter them. - </p> - <p> - They may be baked in muffin rings, but the small square pans are best. - </p> - <p> - This is the very best preparation of Indian cakes. If <i>exactly followed</i>, - we believe there is none superior; as is the opinion of all persons who - have eaten them. The cook from whom this receipt was obtained, is a - Southern colored woman, called Aunt Lydia. - </p> - <p> - The above quantities will furnish cakes only for a small family. If the - family is of tolerable size, double the proportions of each article—as<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">[427]</a></span> for - instance, two quarts of Indian meal, one quart of milk, half a pound of - butter, and ten eggs, with a level table-spoonful of salt. Let them be - well baked; not scorched on the top, and raw at the bottom. - </p> - <p> - We recommend them highly as the perfection of corn cakes, if well made, - well baked, and with all the ingredients of the best quality. - </p> - <p> - Use yellow indian meal in preference to white. The yellow is sweeter, has - more of the true corn taste, and its color shows at once what it is. The - white has less flavor, and may be mistaken for very coarse wheat. It is - difficult to keep corn meal good for the whole year. Before the new corn - meal is in market, the old is apt to become musty. If you live in a city - it is best to buy it as you want it; a few pecks at a time. If in the - country, sift your barrel of corn meal soon after it is brought; divide - it, and keep it in several different vessels, always well covered. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SHORT CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - As this requires no rising, it may be mixed and prepared at half an hour's - notice. Take a quart and a pint of wheat flour, sift it into a pan, and - divide into three parts three quarters of a pound of nice fresh butter. - Cut up one piece into the pan of flour, and mix it into a dough with a - broad knife, adding, as you proceed, as little water as will be barely - sufficient. The water must be very cold. Roll out this lump of paste, - dredge it slightly with flour, fold it up, and<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_428" id="Page_428">[428]</a></span> roll it out again. Then - cover it with a second division of the butter, put on the sheet of paste - with the knife, and dispersed at equal distances. Sprinkle it with flour, - fold it, and roll out the sheet again. Put on the remainder of the butter - as before, in bits equally dispersed. Fold, dredge, and roll out the dough - into a rather thin sheet. Cut it into small round cakes with the edge of a - tumbler, or something like it, using up the clippings of paste left at the - last to make one more cake. Have ready a hot griddle or oven. Put on the - cakes so as not to touch each other, and bake them light brown on both - sides. Send them to table hot, to be split and buttered. Mix and roll out - these cakes as fast as possible, and avoid handling them more than you - need. Paste made <i>slowly</i> is never light or flakey. Mix quick and - roll quick. This is a good plain paste for fruit pot-pies or dumplings. - </p> - <p> - You may make common short cake for very healthy people, with two quarts of - flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound of - lard, mixed into the pan of meal with a very little cold water, and a - second quarter of lard spread all over the sheet of paste, after rolling - it out. Fold, sprinkle, and roll it out again into one round griddle cake, - or two if you have enough of dough. Take care, in baking, not to have it - smoked or blackened at the edge. When done, cut it into "pie pieces," and - send it to table to be split and buttered.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_429" id="Page_429">[429]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HALF MOONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Of this paste you may make half-moon pies. Cut the paste into round cakes. - On half the circle, lay plenty of stewed fruit well sweetened, (for - instance, stewed dried peach,) fold over it the other half, pinch the two - edges together, and crimp them. Bake them in an oven, and eat them fresh. - If you have fruit in the house ready stewed, half-moon pies can be got up - for a plain dessert on an emergency. Either mince meat, or sausage meat, - may be baked in half-moons. They will bake very nicely, laid side by side, - in large square tin pans, first dredged slightly with flour. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SOFT MUFFINS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Warm a quart of milk, and melt in it a quarter of a pound of the best - fresh butter, cut into bits. When melted, stir it about, and set it away - to cool. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and stir them gradually - into a pan of milk, and butter when it is quite cold. Then, by degrees, - stir in enough of sifted flour to make a batter as thick as you can well - beat it. Then, at the last, stir in three table-spoonfuls of baker's or - brewer's yeast. Cover the pan of batter with a double cloth, and set it on - the hearth (or some other warm place) to rise, but it must not be allowed - to get hot. It should have risen nearly to the top of the pan, and be - covered with bubbles in about three hours. The griddle being heated, - grease it with nice butter tied in a rag; take a ladleful of batter out of - the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">[430]</a></span> - pan, pour it into the ring, and bake the muffins. Send them hot to table, - and split and butter them. These are superior to all muffins. Those who - have eaten them will never desire any others, if this receipt has been - faithfully followed. Try it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SALLY LUNN CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a favorite tea cake, and so universally liked that it is well to - make a liberal quantity of the mixture, and bake it in two loaves. Sift - into a large pan three pounds of fine flour. Warm in a quart of milk half - a pound of fresh butter, and add a small tea-spoonful of salt, six eggs - well beaten, and add, gradually, two wine glasses of excellent fresh - yeast. Mix the flour well into the pan, (a little at a time) and beat the - whole very hard. Divide this quantity into two equal portions, and set it - to rise in two pans. Cover it with thick cloths, and set it on the hearth - to rise. When quite light, grease two loaf-pans with the same butter used - for the cakes, and bake it in a moderate oven, keeping up the heat - steadily to the last. It should be thoroughly done all through. Send it to - table hot, cut in slices, but the slices left standing as in a pound cake - at a party. - </p> - <p> - The Sally Lunn mixture may be baked on a griddle, as muffins in muffin - rings, and split and buttered at table. - </p> - <p> - In mixing this cake, add neither sugar nor spice. They do not improve, but - spoil it, as would be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">[431]</a></span> - found on trial. It is the best of plain tea cakes, if properly made and - baked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DELAWARE CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a plain tea cake. Sift into a pan two quarts of flour. Cut up half - a pound of fresh butter, and rub it into the flour with your hands. Beat - five eggs very light and thick; make a hole in the centre of the flour, - and gradually stir the beaten eggs, in turn with a pint of milk. Then add - a jill of fine fresh yeast. Mix the whole thoroughly with a broad knife. - Transfer it to large square tin pans. Cover it with a clean flannel, and - set it on the hearth to rise. When it is quite light, and cracked all over - the surface, divide the dough into cakes and bake them in muffin rings, on - a griddle or in a stove. If baked in one large cake, there is a risk of - their being made heavy, by cutting them when hot. - </p> - <p> - To make sweet cakes with the above mixture, add gradually to the flour in - the pan, half a pound of powdered sugar before you rub in the butter, and - after the eggs and milk. Stir in a wineglass of rosewater, or less, if it - is very strong, (which rosewater seldom is) and also it loses much of its - strength in cooking. Or, substitute the yellow rind and juice of a lemon, - and some powdered nutmeg. They will then be a cake for company; otherwise, - they will be for family teas. - </p> - <p> - Either plain or sweet they are very good. We rather prefer them plain. If - plain, omit even<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">[432]</a></span> - sugar. Sugar, without other flavoring, gives plain tea cakes a faint - sickly taste, and is better left out entirely, except for children—and - they like any kind of sweetness, however little. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MARYLAND BISCUIT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two quarts of sifted wheat flour, and add a small tea-spoonful of - salt. Rub into the pan of flour a large quarter of a pound of lard, and - add, gradually, warm milk enough to make a very stiff dough. Knead the - lump of dough long and hard, and pound it on all sides with a rolling-pin. - Divide the dough into several pieces, and knead and pound each piece - separately. This must go on for two or three hours, continually kneading - and pounding, otherwise it will be hard, tough, and indigestible. Then - make it into small round thick biscuits, prick them with a fork, and bake - them a pale brown. - </p> - <p> - This is the most laborious of cakes, and also the most unwholesome, even - when made in the best manner. We do not recommend it; but there is no - accounting for tastes. Children should not eat these biscuits—nor - grown persons either, if they can get any other sort of bread. - </p> - <p> - When living in a town where there are bakers, there is no excuse for - making Maryland biscuit. Believe nobody that says they are not - unwholesome. Yet we have heard of families, in country places, where - neither the mistress nor the cook knew any other preparation of wheat - bread. Better to live on indian cakes<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_433" id="Page_433">[433]</a></span>. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HOME-MADE BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - You cannot have good bread without good flour, good yeast, good kneading, - and good baking, all united. Like many other things, the best flour is - always the cheapest in the end. There is none better than that which comes - from the mills of Hiram Smith, Rochester, New York. All flour should be - kept in a dry place, damp being always injurious to it. Good flour goes - farther than that of inferior quality, and is both whiter and lighter. No - skill will avail either in making or baking bread, if the flour is of bad - quality. Flour will keep much better if, as soon as a new barrel is - brought in, the whole of it is sifted, and divided in several buckets. - Flour buckets, made for the purpose, are short and wide, are broader at - the bottom than the top, and have handles and lids. They are to be had of - all coopers. Yeast must always be of the best quality, strong and fresh. - With too much yeast the bread will be bitter; with too little it will be - heavy; with stale yeast it will be heavy, sour, and dark-colored. If baked - too little, it becomes tough and clammy. We deprecate the practice of - putting hartshorn in bread. It gives it a bad taste; and even if it - produces a sort of factitious lightness, it also renders it tough and - difficult to masticate, however nice it may look. Also, it is very - unwholesome. - </p> - <p> - The oven should be heated in time, to set in the bread as soon as ready. - When once it has risen to its utmost lightness, it will fall and turn sour - if permitted to stand. The only remedy for sour<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_434" id="Page_434">[434]</a></span> bread is, to melt a - table-spoonful of soda or pearlash in tepid water, and sprinkle it over - the dough, which must then be kneaded again, after it has rested half an - hour. In summer, do not begin your bread over night; it will certainly be - sour before morning. In winter you may do so, but keep it all night in a - warm (though not a hot) place. If the dough freezes, you may throw it away - at once. - </p> - <p> - To knead, double up your hands, put them deep into the dough, and work it - with your knuckles, exerting all your strength. When the dough sticks to - them no longer, but leaves your bent fingers clean and clear, it is time - to cease kneading, for you have done enough for that time. - </p> - <p> - Sift into a deep pan, or large wooden bowl, a peck of fine wheat flour, - (adding a large table-spoonful of salt,) and mix the water with half a - pint of strong fresh brewer's yeast, or near a whole pint if the yeast is - home-made. Pour this into the hole, in the middle of the heap of flour. - Mix in with a wooden spoon, a portion of the flour from the surrounding - edges of the hole so as to make a thick batter, and having sprinkled dry - flour over the top, let it rest for near an hour. This is called "<i>setting - the sponge</i>," or "<i>making the leaven</i>." When it has swelled up to - the surface, and burst through the coating of flour that covered the hole, - pour in as much more lukewarm water as will suffice to mix the whole - gradually into a dough. Knead it hard and thoroughly, leaving no lumps in - it, and continue to knead<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_435" - id="Page_435">[435]</a></span> till the dough leaves your hands. Throw - over it a clean thick cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise again. - When it is quite light and cracked all over the surface, divide it into - loaves, and give each loaf a little more kneading, and let it rest till it - has risen as high as it will. Have your oven quite ready, and (having - transferred the loaves to pans, sprinkled with flour,) bake them well. Try - the heat of the oven by previously throwing in a little flour. If it - browns well, and you can hold your hand in the heat while you count - twenty, it is a good temperature for bread. If the flour scorches black - the oven is too hot, so leave the oven open a little while till it becomes - cooler. As soon as the bread is quite done, take out the loaves, wrap each - tightly in a clean coarse cloth, damped by sprinkling it with water, and - stand them up on their edges. This will prevent the crust from becoming - too hard. Keep the loaves wrapped up after they are deposited in the bread - box. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROLLS— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Are made as above, except that they are mixed with warm milk instead of - water, and a little fresh butter rubbed into the dough. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TWIST BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Before you put the dough into the baking pans, divide it equally into long - thick rolls, (smaller at the ends) and plait or twist three together.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">[436]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BRAN BREAD— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Is made like any other, only of bran meal; and in setting the sponge, put - <i>wheat</i> flour into the hole, and add to the liquid half a tea-cupful - of nice brown sugar. Bran bread should look very brown. It should be eaten - fresh. When stale, it is too dry and hard. Bran batter cakes are made and - baked like buckwheat. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RYE BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Is made like wheat bread, but that it requires more kneading and baking. - Rye batter cakes, made like buckwheat, should have one half corn meal. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BREAD BISCUITS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - When making bread after the dough has risen very light, take from it a - quart or more; knead into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and - form it into tall rolls. Bake them in an oven, and when done break them - apart, but do not cut them with a knife—or, bake them in flat - biscuits, to be split and buttered. Bread dough, with some butter added to - the mixture, will make plain cakes for children, with the addition of - white sugar, powdered cinnamon, some good raisins, (stoned,) cut in half, - and dredged well with flour, to prevent their clodding or sinking. A - beaten egg mixed into the dough is an improvement. Children, (accustomed - only to plain living,) like these cakes very well, but they must be light - and well baked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">[437]</a></span>. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BREAD CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take slices of stale wheat bread, that has been well made and light. There - should be enough to fill a pint bowl, closely packed. Put the bread into a - deep dish, and pour boiling water upon it. While the bread is soaking, mix - in a crock or jar a pint of milk, and a pint of wheat flour. Put the - soaked bread into a cullender, and let the water drain off. When the water - is drained away, beat the bread <i>lightly</i> with a fork, but do not - press or mash it. Beat two eggs very light and thick, and gradually stir - them into the flour and milk. Then stir in the bread. Bake the mixture on - a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes, and eat them hot with butter. - This quantity is for a small family of four persons. - </p> - <p> - For a family of moderate size, take a quart of stale bread, a quart of - milk, a quart of flour, and four eggs. - </p> - <p> - For a large family, two quarts of bread, two quarts of milk, two quarts of - flour, and eight eggs. This quantity will not be more than sufficient for - a large family, as they will all like these cakes. - </p> - <p> - If you have not enough of stale bread in the house, send for a stale loaf, - rather than not have the proper proportion for the cakes. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MILK BISCUIT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Warm a pint of milk on the top of the stove, and cut up in it half a pound - of fresh butter, to soften, but not to melt. Sift into a pan two quarts of - flour; make a hole in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">[438]</a></span> - the middle of the flour, and pour into it the milk and butter. Beat two - eggs till very thick and smooth, and pour them in also. Lastly, pour into - the hole two wine-glasses of strong fresh brewer's or baker's yeast; or, - three of good home-made yeast. Mix altogether with a broad knife, till it - becomes a lump of soft dough. Then knead it well on your pasteboard, and - make it into round rolls or balls. Knead every ball separately. Flatten - them with your hand into thick biscuits, and prick every one with a fork. - Lay them separately in buttered square pans, and set them to rise. If all - is right, they will be light in little more than an hour. When quite - light, (risen high and cracked all over) set them in a moderate oven, and - bake them a light brown. They should be eaten quite fresh. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RUSK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift a quart of flour into a pan. Make a hole in the centre, and pour in a - quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut up and softened in half a pint of - milk warmed on the stove. Beat two eggs very light, and mix them gradually - into the hole in the pan of flour, in turn with a small wine-glass of rose - water; or a table-spoonful of the rose water if as strong as it should be, - adding a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon. - Lastly, a wine-glass and a half of fresh brewer's yeast. Mix those - articles well into the flour, till it becomes a lump of soft dough. Knead - it well on your pasteboard, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_439" - id="Page_439">[439]</a></span> divide it into pieces of equal size. Knead - each piece separately. Form them so as to be tall and high, when finished. - Butter an iron pan, lay the rusks in it side by side, and set them in a - warm place to rise again. When quite light, bake them in a moderate oven, - and sift sugar over them when cool. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DRY RUSKS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Dry rusks are used for infant's food, and for invalids. They are made - plain, without any butter, spice, or rose water, and after being once - baked are split, and baked over till they are all crisp and browned on the - inside. Use them dissolved, by pouring on a little warm water or milk, and - beat them with a spoon to a thick pap. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CROSS BUNS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick clean a pound and a half of dried or Zante currants; wash, drain, and - dry them on a large flat dish placed in a slanting position near the fire, - or in the sun. It will be still better to substitute for the currants a - pound of Sultana (or seedless) raisins, each raisin cut in half. When - quite dry, dredge the fruit <i>thickly</i> with flour to prevent their - sinking or clodding in the cake. Sift into a deep pan two quarts of flour, - and mix thoroughly with it a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and - three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar. Cut up three-quarters of a - pound of fresh butter, into a large half pint of rich milk. Warm it till - the butter is quite soft, but not till it melts. Make a hole in the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">[440]</a></span> centre - of the pan of flour, and pour in the mixed liquid, adding a jill (or two - wine-glasses) of strong fresh yeast. Mix in the flour by degrees, - beginning round the edge of the hole, and proceed gradually till you have - the whole mass of ingredients well incorporated. Cover the pan with a - clean thick towel, and set it in a warm place to rise. When it has risen - high, and is cracked all over, mix in a small tea-spoonful of dissolved - soda. Flour your pasteboard, divide the dough into equal portions, mix in - the plums, and <i>slightly</i> knead it into round cakes the size of a - small saucer. Place them on a large dish, cover them, and set them again - to rise in a warm place for half an hour. Mark every one deeply with a - cross, bake them brown, and when done brush each bun lightly over with a - glazing of white of egg, sweetened with sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CINNAMON BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - On a bread-baking day, (having made more than your usual quantity of wheat - bread,) when the dough has risen quite light, and is cracked all over the - surface, take out as much as will weigh two pounds. Mix into it a quarter - of a pound of fresh butter, that has been cut up and melted in a half pint - of milk; and also, three beaten eggs. Incorporate the butter, milk, and - egg, thoroughly with the dough, and then add (dissolved in a little tepid - water,) a salt-spoonful (<i>not more</i>) of soda. Have ready mixed in a - bowl a pint of <i>brown</i> sugar, moistened<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_441" id="Page_441">[441]</a></span> with fresh butter, so as to - make a stiff paste, and flavor it with two heaped table-spoonfuls of - powdered cinnamon. Form the cake into the shape of a round loaf, and make - deep incisions or cuts all over its surface; filling them up with the - cinnamon mixture pressed hard into the cuts, pinching and closing the - dough over them with your thumb and finger to prevent the seasoning - running out. Put the loaf into a round pan, and set it into the oven to - bake with the other bread. When cool, glaze it over with white of egg, in - which some powdered sugar has been dissolved. Send it to table whole in - form, but cut into loose slices. Eat it fresh. All yeast cakes become dry - and hard the next day. - </p> - <p> - This mixture may be baked in a square iron pan, and cut into square cakes - when cool. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WAFFLES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - We are indebted to the Germans for this cake, which, if this receipt is - exactly followed, will be found excellent. Warm a quart of milk, and cut - up in it a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, and stir it about - to soften in the warm milk. Beat eight eggs till very thick and smooth, - and stir them gradually into the milk and butter, in turn with half a - pound of sifted flour. Then add two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh - brewer's or baker's yeast. Cover the pan with a clean thick cloth, and set - it in a warm place to rise. When the batter has risen nearly to the top, - and is covered with bubbles, it is time<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_442" id="Page_442">[442]</a></span> to bake; first stirring in - a wine-glass of rose-water. Having heated your waffle-iron in a good fire, - grease it inside with the fresh butter used for the waffle mixture, or - with fresh lard; fill it, and shut the iron closely. Turn it on the fire, - that both sides of the cake may be equally well done. Each side will - require about three minutes baking. Take them out of the iron by slipping - a knife underneath. Then grease and prepare the iron for another waffle. - Butter them, and send them to the tea-table "hot and hot;" and, to eat - with this, a bowl or glass dish of sugar flavored with powdered cinnamon. - </p> - <p> - In buying waffle irons choose them <i>very deep</i>, so as to make a good - impression when baked—if shallow, the waffle will look thin and - poor. Those that bake one waffle at a time are the handsomest and most - manageable. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SOFT CRULLERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift a pound and a half of flour, and have ready a pound of powdered - sugar. Heat in a round-bottomed sauce-pan a quart of water; and when quite - warm, stir the flour gradually into the water. In another vessel set a - pound of nice fresh butter over the fire, and when it begins to melt, stir - it, by degrees, into the flour and water. Then add, gradually, the - powdered sugar, and a grated nutmeg. Take the sauce-pan off the fire, and - beat the contents with a wooden spaddle, (which is far better than a - spoon) till they are thoroughly mixed. Next,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_443" id="Page_443">[443]</a></span> having beaten six eggs till - very thick and light, stir them, gradually, into the mixture, and then - beat the whole very hard till it becomes a thick batter. Add rose-water or - lemon juice. Flour a pasteboard, and lay out the batter upon it in the - form of rings. The best and easiest way is to pass it through a screw - funnel. - </p> - <p> - Have ready on the fire a pot of boiling lard. Put in the crullers, taking - them off the board one at a time, on a broad-bladed knife. Boil but a few - at a time. They must be of a fine brown. Lift them out with a perforated - skimmer, draining back the lard into the pot. Lay them on a large dish, - and dredge them with sugar. - </p> - <p> - These, if properly managed, are far superior to all other crullers, but - they cannot be made in warm weather. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - DOUGH-NUTS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - On baking day, take two pounds of very light bread dough that has been - made in the usual manner. Put it into a broad pan. Rub into it half a - pound of fresh butter, and half a pound of powdered sugar, and a - table-spoonful of mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. Wet it with half a pint of - milk, and mix in three well beaten eggs. Cover it, and set by the fire to - rise again. When quite light, flour your pasteboard, and make the dough - into oval balls; or, you may cut it into diamond shapes, (handling it as - little as possible.) Have ready, over the fire, a pot of boiling lard. - Drop the dough-nuts into it, and boil them; or fry them brown in a - frying-pan.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444">[444]</a></span> - Take them out one by one in a perforated skimmer, draining back the lard - into the pan. Spread them on a large dish, and sift sugar over them. Eat - them fresh; when heavy and stale they are not fit. This is a German cake. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COMMON CRULLERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The above mixture for dough-nuts will make good crullers. Flour your - pasteboard, lay the dough upon it, roll it very thick, and cut it into - strips with a jagging iron. Take off short pieces, and twist them into - various forms. Throw them into a pot of boiling lard. When done, drain the - lard from them, spread them on a large dish, and dredge them with powdered - white sugar. - </p> - <p> - The Alpistera is a Spanish cruller, shaped like the five fingers united at - the wrist. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="PLAIN_DESSERTS" id="PLAIN_DESSERTS"></a>PLAIN DESSERTS. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - MOLASSES PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift into a pan a large quart of yellow indian meal. Simmer over the fire - a quart of milk, a pint of <i>West India molasses</i>, stirred in while - the milk is hot. Put the milk and molasses into a large pan, and mix - gradually into them the corn meal while they are quite warm. Add a large - table-spoonful of ground ginger, and a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445">[445]</a></span> - cinnamon. Beat the whole mixture long and hard, for on that will chiefly - depend the lightness of the pudding, as it has neither eggs, butter, nor - yeast. If your batter seems too thin, add, gradually, a little more corn - meal; if too thick, a little more milk and molasses. - </p> - <p> - Dip in hot water a large square pudding cloth. Spread it out in a pan, - dredge it well with flour, and then pour the pudding-mixture into it. Tie - it up, making the string very secure, but leave plenty of room between the - batter and the tying place, for the pudding to swell in boiling, at least - one-third. Put the pudding, directly, into a large pot, and keep it - steadily boiling for about three hours. Corn meal requires long cooking. - Turn the pudding twice with a fork. If the water boils away too much, - replenish it from a tea-kettle of hot water, kept boiling for the purpose. - If you pour in <i>cold</i> water the pudding will become hard and heavy, - and be totally spoiled. Do not turn it out and send it to table till - wanted at dinner. Then dip it for a moment in cold water, untie the - string, and transfer it to a dish with a cover. Eat it with molasses and - butter; or make a sauce of drawn butter, flavored with wine and nutmeg. - </p> - <p> - This pudding, if properly mixed, well beaten, and well boiled, will be as - light as if made with eggs, (the <i>West India</i> molasses having that - property) and it will cut down rough or open grained, like a very light - sponge cake, unless the batter has been made too thick and stiff, and not - sufficiently beaten, and not allowed space enough to swell in<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">[446]</a></span> boiling. - If made <i>too thin</i>, or not boiled well, the pudding will come out a - soft, shapeless mass. But if all is carefully managed, this (the least - costly of American puddings) will be found excellent for a plain table, - and perfectly wholesome. The flavor will be much improved by adding to the - cinnamon and ginger the grated yellow rind and juice of an orange or - lemon. If your first attempt at this pudding is a failure, try it again—practice - makes perfect. - </p> - <p> - For a large family, have two quarts of corn meal, two quarts of milk, and - one quart of <i>West India</i> molasses; two table-spoonfuls of ginger, - and one of cinnamon. - </p> - <p> - What is left may be tied in a cloth, and boiled over again next day, for - half an hour or longer. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MOLASSES PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a plain paste, allowing a quart of flour to a quarter of a pound of - fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound of lard. Cut up the butter into the - pan of flour, and rub it into a dough, with a half tumbler of cold water. - Too much water is injurious to any paste, rendering it tough and hard. - Roll out the paste into a sheet, and with a broad knife spread all over it - one-half of the lard. Sprinkle it with flour, fold it, and roll it out - again. Spread on the remainder of the lard, dredge it slightly, fold it - again, and then divide it into two sheets. Line with one sheet the inside - of a pie-dish, and fill it with molasses, mixed with butter, and flavored - with ginger and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447">[447]</a></span> - cinnamon, or lemon or orange. Put on the other sheet of paste as a lid to - the pie. Crimp or notch the edges. Bake it of a pale brown, and send it to - table fresh, but not hot. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MOLASSES POT-PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make plenty of paste, allowing to <i>each quart</i> of flour a small half - pound of finely minced suet. Line the pot three-quarters up the sides with - paste, and put in a quart of West India molasses, flavored with ginger and - cinnamon, lemon or orange grating, and juice. Cover it with a lid of - paste, <i>not fitting closely</i> round its edges, and cut a cross slit in - the top. Have ready six or eight extra pieces of suet paste, cut into - squares, and boiled by themselves. When the pie is done, put these little - cakes (ready boiled) into the molasses, having removed the lid or cover of - the pie, and cut it up. Take out the inside paste, and cut it in pieces - also. Serve up the whole in one large dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BATTER PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having beaten eight eggs till very thick and smooth, stir them gradually - into a pan of milk, in turn with eight table-spoonfuls of flour, added by - degrees. Give the whole a hard stirring at last. Dip a square pudding - cloth into hot water, shake it out, dredge it with flour, and spread it - over the inside of an empty pan. Pour the pudding mixture into it. Gather - up the cloth, leaving ample space for the pudding to swell in boiling, and - securing the string<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_448" id="Page_448">[448]</a></span> - tightly. Put the pudding into a large pot of boiling water, and boil it - fast and steadily for two hours. Turn it with a large fork once or twice - while boiling. When done, dip it for a moment in cold water, that you may - turn it out easily. Send it to table hot, and eat it with any sauce you - like, from molasses, or butter and sugar, to wine sauce. This, if exactly - followed, is the very best receipt for a plain batter pudding. It may be - made of corn meal, or wheat bread-crumbs, (eight table-spoonfuls to eight - eggs, and one quart of milk.) Corn meal requires with it one or two - spoonfuls of wheat flour for this pudding. - </p> - <p> - We cannot approve of boiling batter puddings in moulds, as they are rarely - allowed sufficient space for swelling, and are therefore tough and solid. - Also, it is frequently very difficult to get a hot pudding out of a mould. - </p> - <p> - The above pudding is very nice baked in the dripping pan under a piece of - roast beef or veal. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make the same mixture as for batter pudding. Eight eggs beaten very light - and thick, and stirred gradually into a quart of milk, in turn with eight - spoonfuls of flour; and, when all are united, beat the whole very hard. In - a large frying-pan melt a pound of lard, and when it comes to a boil, put - in with a large spoon a half tea-cupful of batter. Fry them fast, a panful - at a time, and as they require no stirring they will soon be done. For the - next panful, add half a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_449" - id="Page_449">[449]</a></span> pound more of lard, and see that it is - boiling well all the time. If there is not enough of lard, or if it only - simmers, the fritters will stick to the bottom, and be heavy, dark, and - greasy. Send them to table "hot and hot," sprinkled with sugar. Eat them - with sugar, cinnamon, and white wine. This is the best possible receipt - for plain fritters. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ORANGE FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For frying fruit fritters use nice fresh butter. Peel, and cut into round - slices (not very thin) some fine oranges, removing the seeds carefully. - Put into each fritter (while frying) a slice of orange, and dredge with - sugar. Eat them with sweetened orange juice. These are fritters for - company. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PEACH FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take large ripe free-stone peaches, the best you can get. Peel them, cut - them in half, remove the stones, and put some loaf sugar into the cavities - from whence you took them. Have ready, in a large frying-pan over the - fire, an ample quantity of nice fresh butter, boiling fast. Put in the - batter, and to every spoonful allow half a peach, laid on its back. When - done take them up separately, and drain the butter back into the pan. - Serve up the fritters dredged with white sugar. You may color these - fritters pink by mixing in the batter a little prepared alkanet, the chips - tied up in a thin muslin bag, and laid in a small saucer of sweet oil. - Stir the co<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">[450]</a></span>lored - oil into the batter; it has no taste, but the color is beautiful. Fritters - may be colored green by mixing in the batter some of the juice obtained - from pounded spinach leaves. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - APPLE OR QUINCE FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pare and core some pippin or bell-flower apples, or ripe quinces. Cut them - into round slices, and fry one in every fritter. Eat them with sweetened - lemon juice. You may make fritters with a large table-spoonful of any - thick marmalade in the centre. Or, with a large fresh oyster in the middle - of each. Or, with a table-spoonful of minced meat. These, also, are - company fritters. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PANCAKES— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Are very inferior to good fritters, and much more troublesome to bake. - They are the same ingredients mixed thinner; are also fried in lard, and - must be turned by tossing them over (one at a time) in the frying-pan. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - JUNKET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having turned a quart of rich milk, by stirring into it a half tea-cupful - of the water in which two or three square inches of rennet has been soaked - for several hours, set the milk in a covered pitcher, in a warm place, - till it becomes a firm curd, the whey separating from it, and looking thin - and greenish. Keep it on ice till just before it is wanted for table. Then - transfer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">[451]</a></span> - it to a large bowl, and sweeten it well with white sugar. Mix in two - glasses of sweet wine, and grate over it a nutmeg. It is very nice with - extract of vanilla added to the wine, &c. - </p> - <p> - It is not a good way to preserve a rennet by cutting it into little - pieces, and keeping it in wine, stirring the wine into milk when you wish - to form a curd. If turned with rennet wine, the curd will never separate - completely from the whey, which will therefore be always thick and - whitish. By using rennet water, the whey will be pure, thin, and of a - light green, and the curd very white and firm. In Philadelphia market, - dried rennets (which will keep a year or two hanging up in a cool dry - closet) are universally used to make curds, and are always to be bought at - small prices. They are cured by salting them, and stretching on a bent - rod. To use this rennet, cut off a small bit, and soak it several hours, - or over night, in a cup of lukewarm water. Then stir this water into the - milk. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MILK POTTAGE OR FARMER'S RICE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some rich milk, and put it on to boil in a pot of sufficient size. - When it has begun to boil, stir in, by degrees, enough of wheat flour to - make it about as thick as the general consistence of rice milk, and boil - it well, stirring it frequently down to the bottom. Add a few blades of - mace, or some powdered cinnamon. Knead together some flour and fresh - butter, forming a lump of white paste. Divide the paste into small round - dumplings about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452">[452]</a></span> - the size of a cent, and put them to boil with the milk. When the pottage - is well boiled, take it up, and transfer it to a tureen or deep white-ware - dish, and make it very sweet with good brown sugar. Grate some nutmeg over - the surface. - </p> - <p> - This is an excellent addition to a winter supper-table, and is much liked - by children, for whom it is also good at the end of a plain dinner. As a - substitute for rice milk, it is better and more wholesome than rice - itself. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLAIN RICE PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick some rice, carefully removing from it the husks, and all impurities; - and if you find it the least sour or musty, throw it away, and get some - that is perfectly good. Wash it through two or three waters, till it - drains off quite clean. Stir a quarter of a pound of this rice into a - quart of good rich milk. If the milk is poor and thin, and has been - skimmed till it is blue, or mixed with water, the pudding will be poor - accordingly. In the country where cream is easily to be obtained, add some - to the milk which you use for the rice pudding. Stir in also a quarter of - a pound of good brown sugar, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Set - the pudding into an oven, and bake till a brown skin covers the surface, - and the rice is quite soft, which you may ascertain by lifting a bit of - the brown skin from the edge and trying the rice. Eat it warm or cold. It - is usual in the country to put<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_453" - id="Page_453">[453]</a></span> several of these rice puddings into the - oven on baking days. - </p> - <p> - They will be greatly improved by the addition of two or three beaten eggs, - and a few bits of fresh butter, stirred in with the rice and sugar. Also - powdered cinnamon. Rice is in itself so tasteless, that it requires good - flavoring. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick, wash, and drain a pound of rice. Moisten it with a quart of milk. - Have ready a pound of seedless raisins. Dredge them well all over with - flour to prevent their sinking. Stir them gradually into the rice and - milk. Boil it in a cloth, leaving ample space for it to swell. Keep the - water very hot all the time. Eat it with butter and sugar, seasoned with - ground cinnamon. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RICE CUPS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil in water, in the usual manner, a pound or more of cleaned rice till - it is perfectly soft. Drain it well, and mix it with a quart of milk, - seasoned with a mixed table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon and nutmeg or - mace. Boil it a second time till all the grains are dissolved into a - smooth mass, and their form cannot be distinguished. Mould it in large - tea-cups, pint bowls, or blanc-mange moulds; and when it has taken the - desired form, turn it out on dishes, and serve up with it a small tureen - of wine sauce, or of boiled custard made very sweet, and seasoned, by<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">[454]</a></span> boiling - in the milk of which the custard was made a few peach leaves, or some - bitter almonds broken up, or a broken-up stick of cinnamon, to be taken - out when it is done. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BREAD PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Grate or crumble as much stale wheat bread (omitting the crust) as will - fill a pint bowl when done. Boil a pint of good milk with a broken-up - stick of cinnamon in it. Strain the milk, and pour it (boiling) over the - bread. Sweeten it with three large table-spoonfuls of sugar. Stir in one - or two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Beat four eggs till very - thick and smooth, and add them, gradually, to the mixture, when it is - lukewarm. It will be much improved by the grated peel and juice of a lemon - or orange. Bake it in a deep dish or mould; sift white sugar over it. Eat - it warm, with sweet sauce flavored with nutmeg. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut large even slices of yesterday's bread, (<i>leaving on</i> the crust) - and spread them well with fresh butter. Strew over them thickly half a - pound of Zante currants, picked and washed. Make a batter of four beaten - eggs and a large pint of milk, seasoned with powdered nutmeg or mace. Pour - some of this batter into the bottom of a deep white dish. Then put on as - many slices of bread and currants as will cover the bottom. Next, add the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455">[455]</a></span> - remainder of the batter, and finish with slices of bread and butter - strewed with currants. Bake till the batter is set and firm. When done, - serve it up warm. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A BROWN BETTY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pare, core, and slice thin some fine <i>juicy</i> apples. Cover with the - apples the bottom of a large deep white-ware dish. Sweeten them well with - plenty of brown sugar; adding grated lemon or orange peel. Strew over them - a thick layer of bread-crumbs, and add to the crumbs a <i>very few</i> - bits of fresh butter. Then put in another layer of cut apples and sugar, - followed by a second layer of bread-crumbs and butter. Next more apples - and sugar; then more bread-crumbs and butter; repeat this till the dish is - full, finishing it with bread-crumbs. Bake it till the apples are entirely - done and quite soft. Send it to table hot. It will be improved (if in the - country at cider-making season) by adding to each layer of apples a very - little sweet unfermented cider, fresh from the press. - </p> - <p> - This pudding is in some places called an Apple Pandowdy. We believe it is - Brown Betty in the South; Pandowdy in the North. It is a good plain - pudding if the butter is fresh and sweet, and not too much of it. The - apples must be <i>juicy</i> and <i>not</i> sweet. Sweet apples never cook - well. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEETENED SWEET POTATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The sweet potatos should be all about the same size,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_456" id="Page_456">[456]</a></span> or else so large as to - require splitting. Boil them till, on probing them with a fork, you find - them soft all through. Peel off the skin, and trim off the sharp points of - each end. Place them in a large baking dish, and lay among them some - pieces of fresh butter; sprinkle powdered sugar <i>profusely</i> over them - and among them, especially in the vacancies between the potatos. Set the - dish into a moderate oven, and bake slowly till the butter and sugar are - all melted and blended together, forming a nice crust. They should be - eaten not with the meat, but <i>after</i> it. They make a good supper or - luncheon dish, and a plain dessert at dinner for plain-living people. - </p> - <p> - Sufficient butter and sugar will make the crust like a thick syrup, when - broken. They should be cooked this way only when in the height of their - season, and perfectly fresh and nice. When sweet potatos are old enough to - decay at the ends, give them up. Large sweet potatos may be first boiled; - then peeled and sliced thick, sprinkled thick with sugar, and fried in - fresh butter or lard; the lard well drained from them as they are taken - up. Eat <i>them</i> with meat. - </p> - <p> - They are good boiled very soft, peeled and sent to table mashed, (while - hot) with fresh butter—or made into thick flat cakes, and browned on - the top. - </p> - <p> - It is a great waste to bake sweet potatos whole. If baked enough, (as they - seldom are) they "go all to skin."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_457" - id="Page_457">[457]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - APPLE DUMPLINGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For dumplings the apples should be large and juicy—pippins, - bellflowers, or the best you can get. Small sweet apples make very poor - dumplings. Having pared the apples, extract the cores with a tin - apple-corer, so as to leave them smooth and whole. Why is it that so many - families "have never had an apple corer in their house?" They cost, at the - utmost, but twenty-five cents, are to be had at all the tinsmiths' and - furnishing stores; and they screw out an apple core in a minute; saving - time and trouble. The apples being ready, make a nice paste in the - proportion of a small pint of finely-minced suet, to a large quart of - flour; one-half of the suet rubbed into the pan of flour, (adding <i>a - very little</i> water) the other half sliced thin, and spread all over the - sheet of dough after it is rolled out; then folding it, and rolling it out - again. Cut the sheet of dough in as many circular pieces as you have - apples, allowing them large enough to close entirely over the top, and - rolling it thick enough to hold the apple securely without danger of its - breaking through. Put an apple on every piece of paste, and fill with - brown sugar the hole from whence the core was taken. Squeeze on the sugar - some fresh lemon juice, with the grated yellow rind; or, add some powdered - nutmeg or mace, or some rose-water. This will make them very nice. They - should be boiled in small cloths kept clean for the purpose, dipped in hot - water, and sprinkled with flour, and room left for the dumpling to swell. - Put them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458">[458]</a></span> - into a pot of boiling water, and boil them steadily for near an hour. - Serve them up very hot, as they become heavy when cold. Eat with them - butter and sugar, or cream sauce. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PEACH DUMPLINGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take large fine free-stone peaches. Peel them, cut them in half, and - extract the stones; fill the sockets with white sugar, and put the two - halves together. Make a nice suet paste, or, if more convenient, of - butter, but it must be quite fresh, and very nice. Allow half a pound of - butter to a large quart (or a pound) of sifted flour. Rub half the butter - into the pan of flour, and make it into a dough, with a very little cold - water. Too much water always makes tough heavy paste. Then roll the paste - into a sheet, and put on it with a knife the remainder of the butter in - regular bits. Fold it, roll it out again, and divide it into circular - pieces. Lay a peach on each. Gather up the dough over the top, so as to - form a well-shaped dumpling. Boil them in cloths for full three-quarters - of an hour or more. Eat them with cream sauce. - </p> - <p> - Dumplings of raspberries, or blackberries, may be made as above. Also, of - gooseberries or currants, made very sweet. Quinces preserved whole make - excellent dumplings. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - APPLE PUDDINGS— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Are made like large dumplings, with suet paste, and flavored with<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459">[459]</a></span> lemon, - or rose, or nutmeg. The apples must be sliced. The pudding should be tied - in a cloth; put into a pot of fast-boiling water, kept steadily boiling - for two hours or more, and sweetened with brown sugar as soon as it is - taken up, cutting a round piece of paste out of the top, and putting in - with the sugar a small piece of fresh butter. - </p> - <p> - Large puddings may be made in this manner of stoned cherries, damsons, or - plums, or of gooseberries, or currants—allowing plenty of fruit, and - making it very sweet; besides sending sugar to table with it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ROLLED PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready a quart or more of apples stewed with <i>very little</i> water, - sweetened with brown sugar, and flavored with lemon or rose. Prepare a - nice suet paste. Roll it out, and cut it into a square sheet. Spread it <i>thickly</i> - with the stewed fruit, (not extending the fruit quite to the edges of the - dough) and roll it up as far as it will go. Close it nicely at each end. - Tie it in a cloth, dipped in hot water and floured, and put it into a - fast-boiling pot. Boil it well. Cut it down in round slices. Eat it with - butter and sugar beaten together, or with cream sauce. You may make this - pudding of any sort of thick marmalade, spread over the sheet of paste; - or, with ripe uncooked currants, raspberries, or blackberries, mashed raw, - sweetened, and spread on thickly. This pudding is the same that common<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460">[460]</a></span> English - people call a "Jack in a blanket;" and sometimes "a Dog in a blanket." The - <i>blanket</i> is supposed to mean the paste; the <i>dog</i> is probably - the fruit. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRUIT POT-PIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - These are made in a pot lined with paste, interspersed with small squares - of the same dough, and covered with a paste lid. The filling is of dried - apples, peaches quartered, blackberries, raspberries, ripe currants, or - gooseberries; all well sweetened, and cooked in their own juice, with a - small tea-cupful of water at the bottom to "start them." Both fruit and - paste must be perfectly well done. - </p> - <p> - Fruit pot-pies are easier made and cooked, than fruit puddings or - dumplings. We recommend them highly for plain tables. They require more - sugar when they are dished. A large <i>bain-marie</i> is excellent for - cooking any sort of pot-pie, the water being all in the outside kettle. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLAIN BAKED CUSTARD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil a quart of milk, with a small bunch of green peach leaves in it, or a - half dozen of peach kernels broken up. When the milk has boiled well - strain it into a broad pan, and set it away to cool. In a shallow pan beat - six eggs till very light, thick, and smooth. Stir them, gradually, into - the milk, in turn with a tea-cup of white sugar, and a tea-spoonful of - powdered cinnamon or mace. Transfer the mixture to a deep white dish, set - it into the oven,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461">[461]</a></span> - and bake it till the top is well browned, but not scorched. When done, set - it away to cool, and grate nutmeg over the surface. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BOILED CUSTARD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make exactly the above mixture; but instead of baking, boil it in a - porcelain lined sauce-pan, stirring it all the time. As soon as it comes - to a boil, take it immediately from the fire, or it will curdle. Put it - into a glass or china pitcher, and set it to cool. A <i>bain-marie</i> is - excellent for boiled custard. - </p> - <p> - If custards are baked in cups, set them in an iron pan half full of warm - water. If too hot, or kept baking too long, they will be tough and porous, - and have whey at the bottom. So they will if the milk is warm when the - eggs are added. Good custards will cut down to the very bottom as smooth - and firm as the best blanc-mange. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - APPLES BAKED WHOLE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Never bake apples without paring and coring. They will be found nearly all - skin and core, and are troublesome and inconvenient to eat. Have fine - large apples; take off a thin paring, and extract the core with a tin - corer. Fill up the holes with brown sugar. Place the apples, side by side, - in a square tin pan, set them in an oven, and bake them till, when tried - with a fork, you find them soft all through. Send them to table warm, but<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_462" id="Page_462">[462]</a></span> not - burning hot. If you have country cream to eat with them, so much the - better. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BAKED PEARS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take good-sized pears. Small ones are not worth the trouble of cooking. - Peel them, split them in half, and remove the core, the stem, and the - blossom end. Strew them well with brown sugar, and lay them on their backs - in a large baking dish. A narrow slip of the yellow rind of lemon or - orange, (cut so thin as to look transparent,) will be a great improvement, - laid in the hollow of each pear. Also the juice squeezed. Put into the - dish sufficient molasses or steam-syrup to well cover the pears. Place - them in an oven, and bake them till they are soft, but not till they - break. If you have no lemon or orange, season them with ground ginger or - cinnamon. - </p> - <p> - The great pound pears are baked as above, with the addition of port wine - and a few cloves, and colored red with a little cochineal. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COUNTRY CHARLOTTE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Slice or quarter some fine juicy apples, having pared and cored them. Put - them on a large dish, sweeten them well with brown sugar, set them in the - oven, and bake them till soft enough to mash smoothly. Then cut some - slices of bread, butter them slightly, and dip every one in sweet cider - fresh from the press. Let them soak in the cider a<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_463" id="Page_463">[463]</a></span> short time, but not till - they break. Take them out of the cider, spread every one thickly with the - mashed apple, (sprinkling on more sugar) and send them to the dinner table - in a deep dish or pan. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A PLAIN CHARLOTTE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stew very nicely any sort of ripe fruit, (currants, gooseberries, - blackberries, stoned cherries, or stoned plums,) and as soon as you take - them from the fire make them very sweet with brown sugar. Prepare some - large slices of buttered bread, with the crust pared off. Cover each slice - thickly with the stewed fruit. Lay some in the bottom of a deep dish, and - stand up others all round its sides. Fill up the dish with the same, and - sift white sugar over the surface. - </p> - <p> - It may be made of sliced sponge-cake, spread thickly with stewed dried - peaches. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GOOSEBERRY FOOL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This foolish name signifies an excellent preparation of gooseberries; - stewed, mashed, and made very sweet with brown sugar. Have ready in - another dish a good boiled custard. When all has become cool, mix well - together in a large bowl the stewed gooseberries and the custard, and - season the mixture well with nutmeg. It will be found very good. - </p> - <p> - Any other "fool" may be made in the same manner, of stewed fruit and - boiled custard. It saves the trouble and expense of making paste, or can<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_464" id="Page_464">[464]</a></span> be - prepared at a shorter notice. It is good either at dinner or tea. - </p> - <p> - We hope somebody will think of a better name for it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POTATO PASTE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Boil three moderate-sized potatos till very soft. Then peel and mash them - fine and smooth. Put them into a deep pan, and mix them well with a quart - of flour and a half pint of lard; or what is better, with that quantity of - beef dripping, or the dripping of fresh roast pork. Never for any sort of - crust use mutton dripping. Having mixed the mashed potato, dripping, and - flour into a lump, roll it out into a thick sheet. Sprinkle it with flour, - and spread over it evenly a thin layer of dripping or lard. Fold it again, - and set it in a cool place till wanted. It is good for meat pies, and for - boiled meat pudding, or any sort of dumplings. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VERY PLAIN PIE-CRUST.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift a quart of flour into a pan. Mix together, with a knife, a quarter of - a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound of lard, and when they - are well blended mix them with the flour, and form them into a dough with - as little water as possible—the water being very cold. Use ice water - in summer. Avoid touching the paste with your hands, but use a knife - almost entirely. If your hand is warm, do not rub butter into flour with - it, but manage all the mixing with a knife. If you have a cool<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_465" id="Page_465">[465]</a></span> hand, - you may rub the butter into the flour, and reserve the lard to spread all - over the sheet of dough. Roll it out lightly. Dredge with flour, fold it, - spread on the lard, and roll it again. Divide it into two pieces, and roll - out each of them. Trim the edges nicely, and make them to fit your - pie-dish. If one is for bottom crust, roll it out thinnest towards the - centre, having for this part of the process a very small rolling-pin, but - a finger long. Grease with lard a deep dish, or soup plate, and line it - with the bottom crust. Fill it up with the fruit you intend for the pie, - sweetened well with brown sugar, and heaping the fruit high in the centre. - Cover it with a lid of paste, trim, and notch the edges neatly, and make a - cross slit in the top; set it in the oven, and bake it steadily till it is - a light brown. When it seems to be done, lift up a small piece at one side - to try if the fruit is soft. Apples for pies should be pared, cored, and - sliced very thin. If green, stew them before they are baked. - </p> - <p> - If you have saved enough of the dripping of roast beef, veal, or pork, - (skimmed and put away in a covered crock) it will be good shortening for - common pies—far superior to salt butter, and much lighter. Salt - renders pastry hard and heavy. - </p> - <p> - Never use suet for <i>baked</i> paste. It is only for dumplings and - pot-pies. Bread dough, or any dough made with yeast, is not good when - boiled, becoming tough and leathery, and being very unwholesome. - </p> - <p> - Except in very plain country places a fruit pie,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_466" id="Page_466">[466]</a></span> with two crusts, (under and - upper) is now seen but rarely. <i>Meat</i> pies, or birds, however, should - have two crusts. The gravy is a great improvement to the under one. - English people usually make their fruit pies with a top-crust only, - putting a turned down tea-cup under the centre of the lid to collect the - juice, (of course removing the cup when the pie is cut.) It is a good - method in a country where the cost of flour is high. - </p> - <p> - Too much economy in the shortening will infallibly make the crust very - poor, hard, heavy, and unwholesome. If you cannot afford dessert paste, do - not attempt pies at all; but substitute a plain charlotte, or slices of - bread and butter, covered with stewed fruit, sweetened, and laid in a deep - dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COMMON FRUIT PIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make the paste as above. For baking, use only apples that are juicy, and - rather sour. If green, stew them before they are put in the pie, and make - them very sweet with brown sugar. Peaches should be peeled and quartered, - leaving out the stones. Of cherries, take the large red juicy pie - cherries. Black cherries, (when baked) go all to stones, and they are not - worth the trouble of cooking, though very good when eaten from the trees. - Currants must be carefully stripped from the stems, and made very sweet. - Gooseberries must be "top and tailed," and require great sweetening; so do - cranberries. Blackberries make good plain pies, and are very juicy if - ripe. All pies should be well filled.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_467" id="Page_467">[467]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Pies may be made of ripe wild grapes, stewed in molasses or maple sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EXCELLENT PLAIN PASTE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift into a deep pan a quart and a pint of the best superfine flour. Have - ready (set on ice, and covered with a thick double cloth) a pound of the - very best fresh butter. When you want to use it, cut it into four - quarters. Cut one quarter into very little bits, and with a broad knife - mix it well into the flour, adding, by degrees, a very little water, no - more than half a tumbler. Some flour, however, requires more water than - others. Avoid touching the dough with your hands, in case they should be - warm. Take out the lump of dough, dredge it with flour, and lay it on your - pasteboard. Keep on a plate near you a little extra flour for sprinkling - and rolling. Roll out the sheet of dough very thin, having floured the - rolling-pin to prevent its sticking. Place, with a knife, the second - quarter of butter in little bits all over the sheet of paste, at equal - distances. Then fold it square, (covering the butter with the corners of - paste) dredge it, and roll it out again to receive the third quarter of - butter. Repeat this again, till all the butter is in; always rolling very - fast, and pressing on <i>lightly</i>. You will see, towards the last, the - paste puffing into little blisters all over the surface; a sign of - success. When the last layer of butter is all in, roll the whole into a - large sheet; roll it round like a scroll, and put it<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_468" id="Page_468">[468]</a></span> away in a cold place, but - not so cold as to freeze it, for it will then be spoiled. When you are - ready for it bring it out, cut it down, and roll out each piece ready for - use. There is no better family paste than this, for all sorts of pies; - meat or bird pies, especially. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LEMON BREAD PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mince very fine a quarter of a pound of beef suet. Have ready a pint and a - half of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Prepare the yellow rind of a large - lemon, grated off from the white skin beneath, and squeeze the juice among - it. Mix together in a deep pan the bread-crumbs and suet, adding four or - five table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, - cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. Beat in a broad shallow pan five eggs till very - smooth and thick. Add them gradually to the other ingredients, a little at - a time. Have ready a square pudding-cloth, scalded and floured. Pour in - the mixture, and tie the cloth tightly, but not closely, as room must be - left for the pudding to swell in boiling. Put it into a pot of hot water, - and boil it steadily for two hours. Send wine sauce to table with it—or - cold sauce, of beaten butter, and sugar, and nutmeg. - </p> - <p> - If you use butter instead of suet, you can bake this pudding. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLAIN PLUM PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is for a small plain-living family. Chop very fine half a<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_469" id="Page_469">[469]</a></span> pound of - nice fresh beef suet. Stone a half pound of very good raisins, or use the - sultana or seedless sort. Dredge them well on all sides with flour to - prevent their sinking to the bottom. Grate the yellow rind of a large - fresh lemon, and strain the juice into the saucer on which you have grated - the rind. It will be still better if you use the rind and juice of an - orange as well as of a lemon. Put into a bowl half a pint of grated - bread-crumbs, and a heaped table-spoonful of flour, and pour on them a - half pint of boiling milk. Beat in a shallow pan four eggs till very thick - and light. Mix the suet gradually into the bread, adding alternately the - beaten egg, (a little at a time) the lemon and orange, and four heaped - table-spoonfuls of sugar. Lastly, stir in by degrees, the raisins, well - floured. Put the mixture into a square pudding-cloth spread out into a - deep pan, and dipped in boiling water. Tie it securely, leaving room to - swell. Boil it three hours. - </p> - <p> - Eat with it a sauce of butter, sugar, and nutmeg, beaten together. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="FINE_DESSERTS" id="FINE_DESSERTS"></a>FINE DESSERTS. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - THE BEST PUFF-PASTE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To a pound of the best fresh butter allow a pound of the finest flour, - sifted into a deep pan. Have on a plate some additional sifted flour for - sprinkling and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_470" id="Page_470">[470]</a></span> - rolling in. Divide the pound of butter into four equal parts, and three of - those parts divide again into two portions. Mix the first quarter of - butter into the mass of flour, cutting it with a broad-bladed knife. If - your hands are naturally warm, avoid touching the dough with them, as - their heat will render it heavy. Paste, to be very good, should be made on - a marble slab. All well-furnished kitchens or pastry rooms should be - provided with marble-topped tables, and marble mortars. Add gradually to - the lump of dough a <i>very little cold</i> water, barely sufficient to - moisten it with the first quarter of butter, and mix it well with the aid - of the broad knife; but proceed as fast as you can, and do not work with - it too long. Too much water will render it tough, and too much working - will make it heavy. Then sprinkle the marble slab with some of the spare - flour, take the lump of paste from the pan, and roll it out into a sheet. - Divide one of the portions of butter into little bits, and with the knife - disperse them equally all over the sheet of paste. Then sprinkle it again - with flour, fold it up so as to cover the butter, and roll it out again. - Proceed in this manner till you have got in all the butter, rolling always - lightly, and you will soon see the surface of the dough puffing up in - little blisters, a sign that it is becoming light. Besides the first - mixing in the lump, the butter will then be put in with what are called - six turns. When baked, you will see that every turn makes a layer or - sheet. If you choose to multiply them, you may make nine<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_471" id="Page_471">[471]</a></span> sheets. - We have seen twelve. All this must be done fast and lightly. Then put away - the paste to cool for ten minutes before arranging it in the dishes. This - quantity will make two pies or four tarts. In baking, let the oven be hot, - and keep up a steady heat, so the paste may not fall after it has first - risen. When pale brown, it is done. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SHELLS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For shells take the best puff paste, and line with it large deep plates, - the size of a soup-plate. They should have broad rims. Notch the edges of - the paste handsomely with a sharp penknife, and be careful not to plaster - on, afterwards, any bits by way of mending or rectifying an error. When - baked, every patch in the border will show itself plainly. Bake the shells - entirely empty, till pale brown all over. When cool fill them, <i>quite up - the top</i>, with whatever marmalade or stewed fruit you have prepared for - the purpose. In this way (baking them empty,) the shells are thoroughly - done, and not clammy and heavy at the bottom, as they always are when - filled <i>before</i> baking. The fruit requires no other cooking, having - been done once already. Sift white sugar over the surface. If for company - whip some cream, sweeten it, and flavor it with lemon, orange, pine-apple, - strawberry or vanilla, and pile it on the surface of the shell before it - goes to table. - </p> - <p> - Small tarts may, in this way, be baked empty, for patty-pans, and filled - with ripe fruit, such as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_472" - id="Page_472">[472]</a></span> strawberries, raspberries, or grated - pine-apple, made very sweet, and creamed on the top—or you may fill - the shells with any sort of sweetmeats, either preserves or marmalade, or - with mince-meat. Shells may be made thus, and filled with stewed oysters, - or reed-birds, cooked previously, and served up warm; or with - nicely-dressed lobster. You may make lids for them of the same paste baked - by itself on a shallow plate, and when taken off fitting well as a cover - to put on afterwards before sending to table. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BORDERS OF PASTE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - These are made of fine puff-paste cut into handsome patterns, or wreaths - of leaves or flowers. They are laid round the broad edge of the deep plate - that contains a rich pudding, such as lemon, orange, almond, cocoa-nut, - pine-apple, &c.; the dish being full down to the bottom and up to the - top, and having no paste but the border round the edge. They must be baked - in the dish on which they come to table, and not in tin or iron, as the - pudding cannot be transferred. At handsome tables, a pudding baked with a - paste <i>under</i> it (lining the dish,) is now seen but seldom. - </p> - <p> - Instead of wreaths, you may make a puff-paste border by laying a thick - evenly cut band of paste round the flat rim of the dish, and notching it, - forming with a penknife small squares about an inch wide, and turning one - square up and one square down alternately, <i>cheveux de frize</i> - fashion. Or you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_473" id="Page_473">[473]</a></span> - may make the squares near two inches wide and turn over one corner sharp, - leaving the other flat. This looks pretty when baked, if the paste is <i>very - puff</i>. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LEMON PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To make two puddings take two fine large ripe lemons, and rub them under - your hand on a table. Grate off the thin yellow rind upon a large lump of - loaf sugar. Cut the lemon, and squeeze the juice into a saucer through a - strainer, to avoid the seeds. Put half a pound of powdered white sugar - into a deep earthen pan, (including the sugar on which you have rubbed the - lemons) and cut up in it half a pound of the best fresh butter, adding the - juice. Stir them to a light cream with a wooden spaddle, which is shorter - than a mush-stick, and flattened at one end; that end rather thin, and - rather broad. Beat in a shallow pan, (with hickory rods) six eggs, till - very thick and smooth, and stir them gradually into the mixture. Have - ready some of the best puff-paste, made in the proportion of a pint or - half a pound of very nice fresh butter to a pint or half a pound of sifted - flour. Take china or white-ware dishes with broad rims. Butter the rim, - and lay round it neatly a border of the paste. <i>Put no paste inside the - dish beneath the mixture.</i> Fill each dish to the top with the pudding - mixture, and set it immediately into the oven. It will bake in about half - an hour When done, and browned on the surface, set it to<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_474" id="Page_474">[474]</a></span> cool, - and send it to table in the dish it was baked in. - </p> - <p> - Fine puddings are now made without an under crust, but merely a handsome - border of puff-paste laid round the edge, and helped with the pudding. - Sift sugar over the surface. This quantity will make one large pudding, or - two small ones. - </p> - <p> - To almost all puddings the flavor of lemon or orange is an improvement. A - genuine <i>baked</i> lemon pudding, (such as was introduced by the justly - celebrated Mrs. Goodfellow,) and is well known at Philadelphia dinner - parties, must have <i>no flour</i> or bread whatever. The mixture only of - butter, sugar, and eggs, (with the proper flavoring) and when baked it - cuts down smooth and shining, like a nice custard. Made this way, they are - among the most delicious of puddings; but, of course, are not intended for - children or invalids. We have already given numerous receipts for <i>plain</i> - family desserts. In this <i>chapter</i> the receipts are "for company." - The author was <i>really</i> a pupil of Mrs. Goodfellow's, and for double - the usual term, and while there took notes of every thing that was made, - it being the desire of the liberal and honest instructress that her - scholars <i>should learn in reality</i>. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ALMOND PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Blanch in hot water a quarter of a pound of shelled sweet and two ounces - of bitter almonds, and as you blanch them throw them into a bowl of cold - water. When all are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_475" id="Page_475">[475]</a></span> - thus peeled, take them out singly, wipe them dry in a clean napkin, and - lay them on a plate. Pound them one at a time in a marble mortar till they - become a smooth paste, adding frequently a few drops of rose-water to make - them light and preserve their whiteness, mixing the bitter almonds with - the sweet. As you pound them, take out the paste and lay it in a saucer - with a tea-spoon. Without the rose-water they will become oily and - dark-colored. Without a few bitter almonds the others will be insipid. The - almonds may be thus prepared a day before they are wanted for use. Cut up - a large quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a large quarter of a pound - of powdered sugar, and stir them together with a spaddle till very light - and creamy. Add a large wine-glass of mixed wine and brandy, and half a - grated nutmeg. Beat, till they stand alone, the whites only of six eggs, - and stir them gradually into the butter and sugar, in turn with the - pounded almonds. Stir the whole very hard at the last. Put the mixture - into a deep dish with a broad rim, and fill it up to the top, laying a - border of puff-paste all round the rim. Serve up the pudding cool, having - sifted sugar over it. - </p> - <p> - <i>Boiled Almond Pudding</i>—Is made as above; only with whole eggs, - both yolks and whites beaten together. Boil it in a <i>bain-marie</i> or - in a thick square cloth, in a pot of boiling water. When done, turn it out - and send it to table warm. Eat it with sugar, wet with rose-water. - </p> - <p> - <i>Orange Pudding</i>—Is made exactly like lemon<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_476" id="Page_476">[476]</a></span> pudding; the ingredients in - the same proportion, and baked without an under crust, having a border of - puff-paste all round the edge, and sent to table in the dish it was baked - in. These fine-baked puddings should have no addition whatever of - bread-crumbs or flour. They should cut down smooth and glassy. - </p> - <p> - <i>Boiled Lemon or Orange Pudding</i>—Make the foregoing mixture - either with two lemons or two oranges, adding to the other ingredients a - half pint finely-crumbled sponge cake. Boil the mixture either in a <i>bain-marie</i> - or a thick pudding cloth, and serve it up warm. For sauce, have ready - butter and sugar beaten to a cream, and flavored well with lemon or - orange, and grated nutmeg. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COCOA-NUT PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Break up a ripe cocoa-nut. Having peeled off the brown skin, wash all the - pieces of nut in cold water, and wipe them dry on a clean napkin. Then - grate the cocoa-nut <i>very fine</i> into a pan, till you have a quart. In - a deep pan cut up a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and add a very - light quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. Stir together (with a - spaddle,) the butter and sugar till they are very light and creamy, and - add a grated nutmeg. Beat, (till they stand alone) the <i>whites only</i> - of six eggs; the yolks may be reserved for soft custards. Stir the beaten - white of egg gradually into the pan of butter and sugar,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_477" id="Page_477">[477]</a></span> - alternately with the grated cocoa-nut, a little at a time of each, and a - glass of mixed brandy and white wine. Stir the whole very hard. Fill with - it a broad-edged deep white dish, and lay a puff-paste border all round - the rim. Bake it light brown, and when cool sift white sugar over it, - serving it up in the dish it was baked in. - </p> - <p> - <i>Boiled Cocoa-nut Pudding.</i>—For this make the above mixture, - and boil it in a mould, or in a <i>bain-marie</i>, with the water in the - outside kettle. Eat it either warm or cold. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEET POTATO PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash, boil, and peel some fine sweet potatos. Mash them, and rub them - through a coarse sieve—this will make them loose and light. If - merely <i>mashed</i> the pudding will clod and be heavy. In a deep pan - stir to a cream a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a - pound of powdered sugar; adding a grated nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of - powdered cinnamon, a half glass of white wine, and a half glass of brandy. - Beat in a shallow pan three eggs, till very thick and smooth, and stir - them into the mixture of butter and sugar, alternately with the sweet - potato. At the last mix all thoroughly with a very hard stirring. Put the - mixture into a deep dish, and lay a border of puff-paste all round the - rim. Set the pudding immediately into a rather brisk oven, and when cool - sift white sugar over it. For two of these puddings <i>double</i> the - quantities of all the ingredients.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_478" - id="Page_478">[478]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - <i>White Potato Pudding</i>—Is made exactly as above. Chestnut - pudding also—the large Spanish chestnuts, boiled, peeled, and - mashed. - </p> - <p> - <i>Fine Pumpkin Pudding</i>—Also, allowing to the above ingredients - a half pint of stewed pumpkins, squeezed dry and rubbed through a sieve. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cashaw Pudding.</i>—A similar pudding may be made of stewed - cashaw, or winter squash. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PINE-APPLE TART.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a fine large ripe pine-apple. Remove the leaves, and quarter it - without paring, standing up each quarter in a deep plate, and grating it - down till you come to the rind. Strew plenty of powdered sugar over the - grated fruit. Cover it, and let it rest for an hour. Then put it into a - porcelain kettle, and steam it in its own syrup till perfectly soft. Have - ready some empty shells of puff-paste, baked either in patty-pans or in - soup plates. When they are cool, fill them full with the grated - pine-apple; add more sugar, and lay round the rim a border of puff-paste. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - QUINCE PIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wash well, pare, and core some fine ripe quinces, having cut out all the - blemishes. Put the cores and parings into a small sauce-pan, and stew them - in a little water, till all broken to pieces. Then strain and save the - quince water. Having quartered the quinces, or sliced them in round - slices, transfer them to a porcelain stew-pan, and pour over the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_479" id="Page_479">[479]</a></span> quinces - water extracted from boiling the cores and parings. Let them cook in this - till quite soft all through. Make them very sweet with powdered sugar, and - fill with them two deep soup plates that have been baked empty, with a - puff paste border round the rims. Fill them up to the top, (they are - already cooked) and sift sugar over them—or, you may pile on the - surface of each some ice-cream. You may cook the quinces whole, and lay - one on each tart. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE APPLE PIES— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - May be made in the same manner, flavored with the grated yellow rind and - juice of a lemon. The apples should be fine juicy pippins. If done whole, - lay one on each patty-pan tart, and stick into the core hole a slip of the - yellow rind of lemon, pared so thin as to be nearly transparent. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A MERINGUE PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Rub off upon a large lump of <i>sugar</i> the yellow rind of two fine ripe - lemons, and mix it with a pound of powdered loaf sugar, adding the juice. - Whip, to a stiff froth, the <i>whites only</i> of eight eggs; and then, - gradually, beat in the sugar and lemon, adding a heaped table-spoonful of - the finest flour. Spread part of the mixture thickly over the bottom of a - deep dish, the rim of which has been bordered with a handsome wreath of - puff-paste, and baked. Lay upon it a thick layer of stiff currant or - strawberry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_480" id="Page_480">[480]</a></span> - jelly. Then fill up the dish, and set it, a few minutes in a rather cool - oven to brown slightly. This pudding is for dinner company. If you use - oranges, omit half the grated peel. - </p> - <p> - You may flavor the meringue with vanilla. Split, and break up a small - vanilla bean, and boil it in a <i>very little</i> cream till all the - vanilla flavor is extracted, the cream tasting of it strongly. Then strain - it well, and mix the vanilla cream with the white of egg. Or, a little <i>home-made</i> - extract of vanilla will be still better. This is obtained by splitting and - breaking up some vanilla beans, and steeping them for a week or two in a - bottle of <i>absolute</i> alcohol; then straining the liquid, transferring - it to a clean bottle, and keeping it closely corked. Very little of what - is called "Extract of Vanilla" is good, and it is more expensive than to - make it yourself. Also, what is generally sold for essence of lemon is - very inferior to real lemon juice. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - JELLY OR MARMALADE PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Divide the paste equally and line two puff-paste shells. Bake them empty; - and while baking, beat till very light and thick, the yolks of six eggs. - Mix the beaten egg with a liberal portion of any nice kind of fruit, jelly - or marmalade, and boil it ten minutes in a sauce-pan, stirring it well. - Take it up and set it away to cool. When cold, fill with it the baked - shells. Fill them up to the top with the mixture, and before they go to - table sift powdered white sugar over the surface of the puddings.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_481" id="Page_481">[481]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHEESE PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a quarter of a pound of excellent cheese; rich, but not strong or - old. Cut it in small bits, and then beat it (a little at a time) in a - marble mortar. Add a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter. Cut it - up, and pound it in the mortar with the cheese, till perfectly smooth and - well mixed. Beat five eggs till very thick and smooth. Mix them, - gradually, with the cheese and butter. Put the mixture into a deep dish - with a rim. Have ready some puff-paste, and lay a broad border of it all - round the edge, ornamenting it handsomely. Set it immediately into a - moderate oven, and bake it till the paste is browned, and has risen very - high all round the edge of the dish. Sift white sugar over it before it - goes to table. - </p> - <p> - It is intended that the cheese taste shall predominate. But, if preferred, - you may make the mixture very sweet by adding powdered sugar; it may be - seasoned with nutmeg and mace. Either way is good. - </p> - <p> - It may be baked in small patty-pans, lined at the bottom and sides with - puff-paste. Remove them from the tins as soon as they come out of the - oven, and place them on a large dish. - </p> - <p> - This pudding is very nice made of rich fresh cream cheese; the rind, of - course, being pared off. Cream cheese pudding will require sugar and spice—that - is, a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon, all - mixed; two ounces of fresh butter, and six eggs.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_482" id="Page_482">[482]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FLORENDINES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - These are made of any sort of fruit, stewed in its own juice or in - sweetmeat syrup, but when practicable, without any water. A pint of this - fruit is mixed with half a pint of fresh butter, and half a pint of - powdered sugar stirred together to a light cream, and then mixed with - three well-beaten eggs, and the fruit stirred in alternately with the - beaten butter and sugar. Have ready baked shells of puff-paste, ready to - be filled with the mixture. The fruit may be apples, quinces, peaches, - gooseberries, currants, raspberries. Cranberries, gooseberries, and - currants, require additional sugar, as they are naturally very sour. If - you use plums or cherries for any sort of cooking, stone them first. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PEACH PIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a sufficient number of fine juicy freestone peaches. Clingstones are - very hard and insipid when raw, and still more tasteless when cooked. Peel - the peaches and quarter them, having removed the stones. Stew them in - their own juice, and while hot make them very sweet with white sugar. When - you put them to stew, place among them a bunch of fresh green peach - leaves, to be removed when the peaches are done. Or, cook with them some - peach kernels, blanched in hot water, to be picked out when the stewing is - finished. Peach leaves or kernels communicate a flavor which to most - persons is pleasant. Have ready some puff-paste shells; baked, and - beginning to cool. Fill them to the top with<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_483" id="Page_483">[483]</a></span> the stewed peaches, and - pile on them some whipped cream sweetened, and flavored with noyau or - rose-water. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A FRUIT CHARLOTTE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready a large fresh almond sponge cake, or lady cake. Cut a round or - circular piece to fit the bottom of a great glass bowl. Also, about twelve - or fourteen oblong slices, to stand up all round to line the sides. Have - ready two quarts or more of ripe strawberries or raspberries. Mash the - fruit to a jam, and having made it very sweet with white sugar, spread it - thickly over the pieces of cake. Lay the circular piece of cake in the - bottom of the bowl and stand up the others all round the sides, all close - to each other or wrapping over a little. Proceed to fill the bowl with the - fruit; and when half way up, put on another layer of sliced cake spread - with fruit. Then fill up with fruit to the top. Have ready a quart of - whipped cream flavored with vanilla or bitter almonds. Heap it high on the - bowl, and set it in a cool place till it goes to table. This is a very - fine article for a nice dessert, and can be prepared at a short notice, - and without going down stairs, as it requires no cooking. - </p> - <p> - For the whipped cream, you may pile the bowl with any sort of white - ice-cream ready made, and if there is no fresh fruit in season, substitute - marmalade or fruit jelly. - </p> - <p> - If you have no large bowl you may serve up this charlotte in glass or - china saucers, laying in the bottom of each a circular slice of cake - spread<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_484" id="Page_484">[484]</a></span> - over with ripe fruit or marmalade. Fill up with the same, and finish with - whipped cream, or ice-cream heaped on the top. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VANILLA CUSTARDS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Split a vanilla bean, break it into small bits, and boil it in a half pint - of milk, till all the flavor of the vanilla is extracted. Strain it - through a very fine strainer, cover it, and set it aside. Boil a quart of - rich milk, and when it comes to a boil set it away to cool. Beat eight - eggs till very thick and smooth, (and when the milk is cold) add that - which is flavored with vanilla, and stir it in gradually with a quarter of - a pound of powdered white sugar. Divide the mixture in custard cups, - (filling them to the top) and set them into an iron bake-pan filled with - boiling water, reaching nearly to the the rim of the cups. Put them into a - moderate oven, and bake them a pale brown. When cool, grate nutmeg, or lay - a maccaroon on the top over each. Never send custards warm to table. If - well made, and baked not too much, there will be no whey at the bottom of - the cups, and the custards will be smooth and firm all through, and have - no spongy holes in them. - </p> - <p> - To make soft custards, omit the whites of all the eggs, and have a double - quantity of yolks. The whites may be used for almond or cocoa-nut pudding, - for lady cake, for meringue or icing, and for kisses or maccaroons. - </p> - <p> - <i>Orange Custards.</i>—Prepare four large ripe<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_485" id="Page_485">[485]</a></span> oranges, by rolling them - under your hand on a table to increase the juice. Use none of the peel for - these custards, but reserve it for something else. Beat in a shallow pan - twelve eggs till thick and smooth. Mix the orange juice with a wineglass - of cold water, and stir it gradually into the beaten egg, with a small - tumblerful of powdered sugar. There is no milk in these custards. Divide - them into custard cups, and beat them ten minutes. When cold, grate nutmeg - over them. - </p> - <p> - <i>Lemon Custard</i>—Is made in the above manner, with the juice of - four large lemons, (omitting the rind) a small wineglass of cold water, - twelve beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. Any of - these fine custards may be boiled in a <i>bain-marie</i>, with water in - the outside kettle, and there is no way better. When boiled and cool, - grate in some nutmeg, and serve up the custard in a glass or china - pitcher, with saucers of the same to eat it from, or divide it in small - glass cups with handles to them. - </p> - <p> - Lemon or orange custards are very fine. They are made without milk. - </p> - <p> - <i>Chocolate Custard.</i>—Make some strong chocolate, allowing a - quarter of a pound of the best, (which is Baker's prepared cocoa) to a - quart of rich milk; first mixing the milk and scraped chocolate to a - smooth paste. Boil them together a quarter of an hour. While warm, stir in - two or three table-spoonfuls of loaf sugar. Then set it away to cool. Have - ready eight well-beaten eggs, and stir them gradually into the chocolate.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_486" id="Page_486">[486]</a></span> Bake the - mixture in cups, and serve them up with a chocolate maccaroon laid on the - top of each. - </p> - <p> - <i>Almond and Maccaroon Custard.</i>—Boil in half a pint of rich - milk a handful of <i>bitter</i> almonds, blanched and broken up. When - highly flavored, strain that milk and set it aside. Boil a quart of milk - by itself, and when cold stir in, gradually, eight well beaten eggs, - adding the flavored milk, and half a pint of powdered sugar. Stir the - whole very hard at the last. Bake it in cups, and when done and cold, lay - on the top of each a maccaroon with four others placed around it; five - maccaroons to each custard. Or, if the maccaroons are made in the house, - let every one be large enough to cover the top of the custard like a lid. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE PLUM PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This pudding is best when prepared, (all but the milk and eggs,) the day - before it is wanted. Seed and cut in half one pound of the best bloom - raisins; and pick, wash, and dry before the fire, a pound of Zante - currants, (commonly called plums.) Dredge the fruit well with flour, to - prevent its sinking or clogging. Take one pound of fresh beef suet, freed - from the skin and strings, and chopped <i>very fine</i>; a pint of grated - bread-crumbs, and half a pint of sifted flour; a large quarter of a pound - of the best sugar, a large table-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon - mixed, and two powdered nutmegs—all the spice steeped in a half pint - of mixed wine and brandy. Put away these<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_487" id="Page_487">[487]</a></span> ingredients separately, - closely covered, and let them stand undisturbed all night. Next morning - proceed to finish the pudding, which requires at least six hours boiling. - Beat nine eggs till very thick and smooth, then add gradually a pint of - rich milk, in turn with the bread-crumbs and flour. Mix with the sugar the - grated yellow rind and juice of two large lemons or two oranges, and add - gradually to the mixture all the ingredients, stirring very hard. If you - find it too thick, add by degrees some more milk; if too thin, some more - bread-crumbs. But take care not to have too much bread or flour, or the - pudding will be solid and heavy. Dip a large strong cloth in boiling - water; shake it out, and spread it in a large pan. Dredge it lightly with - flour, and pour in the mixture. Tie it tightly, but leave sufficient space - for the pudding to swell in boiling. Put it into a pot of fast-boiling - water, and boil it steadily six hours or more, not taking it up till - wanted for table. Before turning it, dip the cloth for a moment in cold - water to make the pudding come out easily. Have ready some slips of citron - or of blanched sweet almonds, or both, and stick them, liberally, all over - the surface of the pudding after you have dished it. Serve it up with wine - sauce highly flavored, or with butter and sugar beaten to a cream, and - seasoned with nutmeg and rose. Do not set the pudding on fire to burn out - the liquor; that practice has had its day, and is over. It was always - foolish. - </p> - <p> - If you wish to send it to a distant place, (for<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_488" id="Page_488">[488]</a></span> instance, to some part of - the world where plum puddings are not known or not made) you may preserve - it, (after boiling it well,) by leaving it tied up in the cloth it was - cooked in; hanging it up in a cool dry place, and then packing it well in - a tin vessel having a close fitting cover. Paste a band of thick white - paper all around the place where the lid shuts down, and put into a tight - box the vessel that contains the pudding. When it arrives at its - destination, the friend who receives it will pare off thinly the outside, - and tying up the pudding in a fresh clean cloth, will boil it over again - for an hour or more; and when done the surface may be then decorated with - slips of citron or almond. It has been said that in this way a plum - pudding can be kept for <i>six</i> months, as good as ever. It cannot. But - it may keep six <i>weeks</i>. Do not <i>fry</i> or <i>broil</i> plum - pudding that is left at dinner. The slices will be greasy and heavy. But - tie the piece that remains in a small cloth, and <i>boil</i> it over again - for an hour. It will then be nearly as good as on the first day. Believe - in no wonders that you hear, of the long keeping of either plum pudding, - plum cake, or mince meat, which are all of the same family. However long - they may be preserved from absolute decomposition, these things are always - best when fresh. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MINCE PIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The best mince meat is made of fresh beef's tongue boiled, peeled, and - when quite cold, chopped very fine. The next best is<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_489" id="Page_489">[489]</a></span> of beef's heart boiled and - chopped. The next of cold roast beef. And the next, of the lean of cold - boiled beef, quite fresh, and cooked especially for the purpose. All the - meat must be fresh, and not minced till entirely cold. To two large pounds - of lean meat allow two small pounds of nice kidney suet, cleared from skin - and strings, and chopped very small; two pounds of fine juicy apples, - pared, cored, and minced; two pounds of Zante currants, washed, and picked - clean; two pounds of fine bloom raisins, seeded and chopped, or of - seedless sultana raisins cut in half; two pounds of the best sugar; two - large nutmegs, powdered; a table-spoonful of ground cinnamon; the same - quantity of ground ginger, with the juice and grated yellow rind of six - large lemons, or the juice of six oranges, and their grated rind; a pint - of Madeira or sherry, and half a pint of brandy; lastly, half a pound of - citron cut into slips, rather large. If the citron is chopped small it - cannot be distinguished among the other ingredients, and its flavor is - lost. When all is prepared, mix well in a large pan the chopped meat, - suet, and fruit. Then, gradually add the spice, having steeped it in the - liquor all the preceding night, mixing the whole thoroughly, and putting - in the citron at the last. Line with fine puff-paste deep pie-dishes, or - patty-pans. Fill them, quite full of the mince, heaping it higher towards - the centre; and put on a lid, handsomely decorated with puff-paste - ornaments, and having a cross slit in the centre surrounded with paste - leaves or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_490" id="Page_490">[490]</a></span> - flowers. Set the pies immediately into a moderately brisk oven, and bake - them a light brown. Eat them warm. If baked the preceding day, heat them - again before they go to table. The foolish custom of setting the pies on - fire after they come to table, and causing a blue blaze to issue from the - liquor that is in them, is now obsolete, and considered ungenteel and - tavern-like. If this practice originated in a polite desire to <i>frighten - the ladies</i>, its purpose is already a failure, for the ladies are not - frightened; that is, not really. - </p> - <p> - Mincemeat will taste more fresh and pleasant if the apples are not added - till the day the pies are made. It should be kept well-secured from air - and damp, in stone jars closely covered. Whenever a jar is opened to take - out some for immediate use, pour in a large glass or two of brandy, and - stir it about. It is not true that mincemeat will keep all winter, even by - this preservative. It is sure to become musty (or worse,) before two - months. It is best to make fresh mincemeat at least three times during the - season. When the cold weather is over, do not attempt it, unless a little - for immediate use. - </p> - <p> - Mincemeat, with a double portion of excellent raisins, (cut in half,) will - do very well without currants, which are very troublesome to prepare; and - those imported of late years are rarely of good quality. - </p> - <p> - We have heard of West India mincemeat made with cold roast turkey; chopped - pine-apple; grated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_491" id="Page_491">[491]</a></span> - cocoa-nut; preserved ginger chopped, and moistened with its own syrup; and - seasoned with nutmeg and noyau. - </p> - <p> - The above mince pies are for company. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CALF'S FEET JELLY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Select the largest and best calf's feet. Four is called a set. Choose - those that, after the hair has been well scalded and scraped off, are - prepared with the skins left on. There is much glutinous substance in the - skin itself, therefore it adds to the strength and firmness of the jelly. - The feet being made perfectly clean, split them upwards as far as you can, - and put them to boil in a gallon of <i>very clear</i> soft water. Boil - them till they have all gone to pieces, and the flesh is reduced to rags, - and the liquid to one half. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a - white-ware pan, and set it away to cool. When quite cold, it should be a - cake of firm jelly. Take it out, and scrape from it all the fat at the top - and sediment at the bottom. Press on the surface, some clean blotting - paper, to remove any grease that may yet remain about it. Cut the cake of - jelly into pieces, and put it into a <i>very clean</i> porcelain kettle, - with a large pint of sherry, (inferior wine will spoil it,) a pound of the - best loaf sugar, broken small; the yellow rind of six lemons, pared so - thin as to be transparent, and their juice squeezed over the sugar through - a strainer; the <i>whites</i> of six or seven eggs, with their shells - mashed small. If the jelly is to be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_492" - id="Page_492">[492]</a></span> moulded, add a quarter ounce of the best - Russia isinglass. Boil together all these ingredients for near twenty - minutes. Then take it off the fire, and let it stand undisturbed for about - five minutes, to settle. Next, have ready a pointed jelly bag, made of - clean white flannel. Spread it open, suspended by strings to a table edge. - Set a large tureen or white-ware pan beneath it, and let the jelly drip as - long as it will; but on no account squeeze or press the bag, as that will - spoil all, rendering the whole jelly cloudy or streaked. If it is not - quite clear at the first straining, empty the contents of the bag into a - basin, wash the bag clean, hang it up again, pour the jelly back, wash the - tureen or pan, and let the jelly pass into it again. Repeat this straining - if necessary. When quite clear, shape the jelly in white-ware moulds, - which have been setting two hours in cold water. When the jelly is wanted, - wrap round the moulds for a moment, a cloth dipped in warm water, and turn - it out on glass dishes. The ingredients that are left in the bag may be - boiled and strained over again for children. If the jelly is <i>not</i> to - be moulded, you may omit the isinglass. In that case break it up, and - serve it in a glass bowl. It is now the general opinion that jellies have - a more lively taste when broken up, from the numerous acute angles they - present to the tongue and palate. We think this opinion correct; and also - they look brighter and more glittering, and <i>go farther</i>. - </p> - <p> - <i>Apple Jelly</i>—Is far less expensive than that of calf's feet, - and if well made looks beautifully. It<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_493" id="Page_493">[493]</a></span> requires the very best and - most juicy apples, (for instance, two dozen large pippins or - bell-flowers.) Wash and wipe them well, (removing all blemishes,) pare, - core, and slice or quarter them. Put them into a <i>bain-marie</i> or - double kettle, with the water outside, and let them boil till broken and - dissolved, putting in with them the grated yellow rind of four large - lemons. Press and mash the stewed apples through a very clean sieve, till - you have extracted all the juice. Measure it while warm, and allow to each - quart a pound of the finest powdered and sifted loaf sugar well mixed in, - and the juice of the lemons. Transfer it to a clean white flannel jelly - bag, and let it drip into a large white-ware pan. When quite clear, put it - into moulds, and set it on ice to congeal. When wanted, turn it out of the - moulds, (loosened by wrapping round their outsides cloths dipped a minute - in warm water) and serve it up in glass dishes. - </p> - <p> - <i>Siberian Jelly.</i>—A fine pink-colored jelly may be made in the - above manner, of the red Siberian crab-apple, but it requires an <i>additional</i> - quarter of a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Instead of lemon you may - flavor it, (after all the juice has done dripping) by mixing with extract - of rose, or strong rose-water, allowing a wine-glassful to each quart of - jelly. Rose-water, or extract of rose, evaporates so speedily when over - the fire, that it should never be added till the very last. - </p> - <p> - <i>Orange Jelly</i>—Is made in the proportion of a pint of strained - orange juice to a pound of loaf sugar, boiled with an ounce of isinglass, - that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_494" id="Page_494">[494]</a></span> - has first been melted over the fire by itself in a very little water. Add - the <i>yellow</i> rind of the oranges pared from the white as thin as - possible. Give it one boil up, and strain it into the jelly-bag. When - clear, transfer it to moulds. Twelve large oranges will generally yield a - pint of juice. Lemon jelly is made in the same manner, but with more - sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CURRANT JELLY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The currants should be large, fine, and fully ripe. The best and sweetest - currants grow in the shade; and the largest, also. If exposed to the full - heat of our American sun, it turns them sour, dries up the juice, and - withers their growth. Gather them when fully ripe, strip them from the - stems into a cullender, and wash and drain them. Transfer them to a large - pan, and mash them well with a wooden beetle. Then put the currants, with - their juice, into a <i>bain-marie</i> or double kettle, and cook them with - the water outside, stirring them hard to bring out the juice. Simmer them - for a quarter of an hour, and then transfer them to a very clean sieve, - and press them over a pan till no more juice appears. Measure the juice, - and to each pint allow a pound of broken-up loaf sugar. Mix the sugar with - the juice, put all into a porcelain kettle, and boil it till the scum - ceases to rise. If the sugar is of excellent quality, (the best - double-refined should be used for all nice sweetmeats) it will need but - little skimming, and leave no sediment when poured off.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_495" id="Page_495">[495]</a></span> Boil it - twenty minutes with the sugar. To try if it is done, take up a spoonful - and hold it out in the open air. If it congeals very soon, it is cooked - enough. Put it warm into glass tumblers. Cut out some white tissue paper - into double rounds, exactly fitting the glasses. Press these papers - lightly on the surface of the jelly; and, next day, tie over the top thick - papers dipped in brandy, and set them in the sun all that day if the - weather is bright and warm. - </p> - <p> - All jellies of small fruit may be made in a similar manner; first boiling - the fruit by itself, and mashing it to get out all the juice. Then boiling - the berries again, <i>with the sugar</i>, for about twenty minutes. The - above receipt is equally good for grapes, blackberries, and gooseberries. - Black currant jelly (excellent for sore throats,) requires but three - quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice being very thick of itself. - Peaches, plums, damsons, and green gages, must be scalded, peeled, and - stoned, before boiling for jelly, and they require, at least, a pound and - a half of sugar to a pint of juice. It is better to preserve them as - marmalade than as jelly. Strawberries and raspberries require no previous - cooking; mash out the juice, strain it, allow a pound of sugar to every - pint of juice, and then boil them together (skimming carefully) for about - a quarter of an hour, or till they congeal on being tried in the air.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_496" id="Page_496">[496]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WINE JELLY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Wine jellies are seldom made except for company. The wine must be of - excellent quality; either port, madeira, or champagne. To a quart of wine - allow a pound of the best double-refined loaf sugar, and an ounce of the - best Russian isinglass. Melt the sugar (broken small) in the wine. Melt - the isinglass by itself in as much warm water as will just cover it, and - when quite dissolved, stir it into the mixed wine and sugar. Boil all - together, till on trial it becomes a firm jelly, which will be very soon. - If it does not congeal well, add some more dissolved isinglass, and more - sugar. Serve in moulds, and eat it on saucers. Jelly is made in this - manner of any nice sort of <i>liqueur</i> or cordial. Also of strong green - tea, or very strong coffee; first made as usual, and then boiled with loaf - sugar and isinglass till they congeal. We do not recommend them, except as - some exhilaration to the fatigue of a party. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TRIFLE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a very nice and very elegant party dish, and is served in a large - glass bowl. Put into the bottom of the bowl a pound of bitter almond - maccaroons. Pour on sufficient madeira or sherry to dissolve them. Let - them soak in it till soft and broken. Have ready a very rich custard, - flavored with vanilla bean (broken up and boiled by itself in a little - milk), and then strained into the quart of milk prepared for the custard, - which should be of ten eggs, (<i>using only the yolks</i>)<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_497" id="Page_497">[497]</a></span> and - sweetened with a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar. It is best and - easiest to <i>bake</i> the custard. It will be very rich and soft with - yolk of egg only. When the custard is cold lay it on the dissolved - maccaroons. Then add a thick layer of very nice marmalade. Rub off the - yellow rind of a large lemon or two on some pieces of loaf sugar, and add - to it some powdered sugar mixed with the lemon juice. Whip to a strong - froth a large quart (or more) of rich cream, gradually mixing with it the - lemon and sugar. Lastly, pile up the frothed cream high on the glass bowl, - and keep it on ice till it is sent to table. Instead of lemon you may - flavor the whipt cream with rose-water; it will require, if not very - strong, a wine-glassful. To give the cream a fine pink color, tie up some - alkanet chips in a thin muslin bag; lay the bag to infuse in a tea-cup of - plain cream, and then add the pink infusion to the quart of cream as you - froth it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BLANCMANGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The best and finest blancmange is made with a set of calves' feet, (singed - but not skinned) boiled slowly in a gallon of water till the meat drops - from the bone; then strain it, and set it away till next day, in a broad - white-ware pan. Skim it well while boiling. Next day it should be a solid - cake of clear jelly. Scrape off all the fat and sediment from the outside, - cut the jelly into small bits, and melt it over again. Boil in a porcelain - kettle a pint of cream,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_498" - id="Page_498">[498]</a></span> and when it has come to a boil, stir in six - ounces of loaf sugar, and whatever you intend for flavoring; either the - milk, in which a handful of bitter almonds has been boiled, (first being - blanched and broken up) or a vanilla bean split and cut to pieces, and - boiled in a little milk and strained. Or, it may be mixed with three - ounces of chocolate, (Baker's prepared cocoa is the best) scraped fine. - When the flavoring has had a boil with the sugar, stir into it, gradually, - the melted jelly, and transfer it to white-ware moulds that have set in - cold water, and are still damp. Stir it well, and when the blancmange is - thickening, and becoming hard to stir, set the moulds on ice, or in pans - of cold water in the cellar, and cease stirring. When quite congealed, dip - the moulds in lukewarm water, and turn out the blancmange on glass dishes. - You may color almond or vanilla blancmange a fine pink, by putting into - the cream chips of alkanet root tied in a small thin muslin bag, to be - removed as soon as the cream is highly colored. Or, it may be made green - by the infusion of spinach juice, obtained by pounding in a marble mortar, - and then boiling and straining. - </p> - <p> - Gelatine is now frequently used for blancmange and jelly, instead of - calves' feet or isinglass. It has no advantage but that of being more - speedily prepared than calves' feet, which must be boiled the day before. - Four cakes of gelatine are equal to four calves' feet. Before using, they - must be soaked for an hour or more in a pan of cold water, then boiled - with the other ingredients.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_499" - id="Page_499">[499]</a></span> Some persons think they perceive an - unpleasant taste in gelatine; perhaps they have heard of what it is made. - </p> - <p> - When calves' feet cannot be obtained, pigs' feet will do very well, if - nobody knows it. Four feet of calves are equal to eight of pigs. They are - very glutinous, and have no perceptible taste. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINEST BLANCMANGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Break up a half pound of the best double-refined loaf sugar. On some of - the pieces rub off the yellow rind of two large lemons, having rolled them - under your hand to increase the juice. Then powder all the sugar, and mix - with it, gradually, the juice of the lemons, a pint of rich cream, and a - large half pint (not less) of sherry or madeira. Stir the mixture very - hard till all the articles are thoroughly amalgamated. Then stir in, - gradually, a <i>second</i> pint of cream. Put into a small sauce-pan an - ounce of the best Russia isinglass, with one jill (or two common-sized - wineglasses) of cold water. Boil it till the isinglass is completely - dissolved, stirring it several times down to the bottom. When the melted - isinglass has become lukewarm, stir it gradually into the mixture, and - then give the whole a hard stirring. Have ready some white-ware moulds - that have just been dipped and rinsed in cold water. Fill them with the - mixture, set them on ice, and in two or three hours the blancmange will be - congealed. When it is perfectly firm, dip the moulds for a minute in luke<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_500" id="Page_500">[500]</a></span>warm - water, and turn out the blancmange on glass dishes. This, if accurately - made, is the finest of blancmange. For company, you must have double, or - treble, or four times the quantity of ingredients; each article in due - proportion. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FARINA.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Farina is a very fine and delicate preparation, made from the inner part - of the grain of new wheat. It is exceedingly nutritious, and excellent - either for invalids or for persons in health. It is now much in use, and - is to be had, in packages of a pound or half a pound, of the best grocers - and druggists, and is highly recommended by physicians for gruel and - panade. It also makes an excellent pudding, either boiled or baked, - prepared in the same manner as any flour pudding. For boiling farina, - nothing is so good as a <i>bain-marie</i> or double kettle. - </p> - <p> - <i>For Farina Blancmange.</i>—From a quart of rich milk take out a - half pint. Put the half pint into a small sauce-pan, and add to it a - handful of bitter almonds broken up; or a bunch of fresh peach leaves, or - a vanilla bean split, cut up, and tied in a thin muslin bag. When this - milk has boiled till very highly flavored, strain it into the pint and a - half, and set it over the fire in a porcelain kettle or a <i>bain-marie</i>. - When the milk has come to a boil, sprinkle in, gradually, a large half - pint or more (or four large heaping table-spoonfuls) of farina, stirring - it well—also sprinkling in and stirring, as if making thick mush. - Let it boil<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_501" id="Page_501">[501]</a></span> - slowly a quarter of an hour after the farina is all in. When done, remove - it from the fire, and stir in two large table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a - wineglass of rose-water, or one of white wine. Transfer it to a blancmange - mould, (previously wet with cold water,) set it on ice, and turn it out - when ready for dinner. Eat it with sauce of wine, sugar, and nutmeg. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE MARROW PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mince very small a quarter of a pound of nice beef marrow, and grate or - crumble half a pound of almond sponge cake. Cut in half, a quarter of a - pound of sultana or seedless raisins, chop two peels of candied citron, - mix them with the raisins, and dredge both thickly with flour. Add a large - heaped table-spoonful of loaf sugar, a small nutmeg grated, and a - wineglass of mixed wine and brandy. Mix all these ingredients well, put - them into a deep dish, lay a border of puff-paste all round the rim, and - fill the dish up to the top with a nice custard made in the proportion of - four eggs to a pint of well-sweetened milk, flavored with either bitter - almonds, rose-water, peach-water, or vanilla. Bake this pudding half an - hour. When cool, sift sugar over it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - OMELETTE SOUFFLÉ.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Break six eggs, separating the yolks and whites. Give them a slight stir, - and strain the whites into one pan and<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_502" id="Page_502">[502]</a></span> the yolks into another. Add - to the yolks three large table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, a heaped - tea-spoonful of arrow-root flour, and twelve drops of strong orange-flower - water, and beat it till very thick and smooth. Then beat the whites to a - stiff froth, beginning slowly at first, but gradually beating faster. Then - add the beaten yolk very gently to the whites. Have ready a silver or - plated dish well-buttered. Use tin for want of better, but it will not - look well, as the omelette has to be served up in the dish it was baked - in. Place the dish with the mixture in a hot oven, and watch it while - baking. When it has well risen, and seems very light, take it out of the - oven for a moment; run a knife round it, sift some sugar over it, set it - again in the oven, and when raised to its utmost take it out again, and - serve it up as hot as possible, with a spoon on the plate beside it. When - once broken, it will sink immediately. It is usual to send round the - omelette soufflé at the very last of the pastry course; the cook not - beginning to make it till the dinner has commenced. If not light when - baked, give it up, and do not send it to table at all. It is safest for an - inexperienced housewife to engage a French cook to come to the house with - his own ingredients and utensils, and make and bake the omelette soufflé - while there. Still though very fashionable, it is less delicious than many - other desserts.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_503" id="Page_503">[503]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SUNDERLANDS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Warm a quart of rich milk, and cut up in it half a pound of the best fresh - butter to soften in the milk, but not to oil. Beat eight eggs till very - light and thick, and then stir them gradually into the pan of milk and - butter, in turn with eight large table-spoonfuls of sifted flour. Beat all - very hard together, and then transfer the batter to white tea-cups, - slightly buttered, not filling them quite full. Set them immediately into - a brisk oven, and bake them about twenty minutes, or till they are - slightly browned, and have puffed up very light. As soon as they are cool - enough to handle without burning your fingers, turn them out of the cups - on a dish, cut a slit in the top of each, and, taking a tea-spoon, fill - them quite full of any sort of jelly or marmalade; or if more convenient, - with ripe strawberries or raspberries, sweetened with powdered sugar, and - mashed smoothly. When filled with fruit, close the slit neatly with your - fingers; and on the top of each lay a large strawberry or raspberry, - having first dredged the sunderland with sugar. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cream Cakes</i>—Are made in the above manner, but baked in - patty-pans. When baked take them out, cut a slit in the <i>side</i> of - each; and having prepared an ample quantity of rich boiled custard, made - with yolk of egg, and highly flavored (<i>after it has boiled</i>,) with - lemon, orange, vanilla, rose-water or peach-water, fill the cakes full of - the custard, closing the opening well by pinching<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_504" id="Page_504">[504]</a></span> it together. Sift powdered - sugar over them, and send them to table on a large china dish. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CREAM TART.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a fine puff-paste of equal quantities of fresh butter and sifted - flour; mixing into the pan of flour a heaped table-spoonful of powdered - sugar, and wetting it with a beaten egg. Rub one quarter of the butter - into the pan of flour. Divide the remainder of butter into six, and roll - it into the flour at six turns till it is all in. Have, ready grated, the - yellow rind and the juice of a large lemon or orange mixed with a quarter - of a pound of powdered loaf sugar; or a flavoring of a split-up vanilla - bean; or a dozen bitter almonds broken up, and boiled in a very little - milk. Mix the flavoring with a pint of rich cream, and the well-beaten - whites of three eggs. Take small deep pans, line them all through with the - paste rolled out very thin, and cut square. Fill them with the cream, and - turn the square pieces of paste a little over it at the top, so as to form - corners. Bake the tarts in a brisk oven, and when cold, grate nutmeg over - the surface. - </p> - <p> - Are these the cream tarts of the Arabian Nights? - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ORANGE COCOA-NUT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Break up a fine ripe cocoa-nut, and after peeling off the brown skin, lay - the pieces in cold water for a while. Then wipe them dry with a clean - towel, and grate them into a deep dish. Mix in, plenty of pow<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_505" id="Page_505">[505]</a></span>dered - white sugar. Take some fine large oranges, very ripe and juicy. Peel off - all the rind, and slice the oranges rather thick. Cover the bottom of a - large glass bowl with sliced orange, (the first layer being double, where - the bowl is small) and strew among the slices sufficient sugar. Then put - in a thick layer of the grated cocoa-nut, next another layer of orange—again - a layer of cocoa-nut, and so on, alternately, till the bowl is filled, - finishing with cocoa-nut heaped high. This is a handsome and delicious - article for a supper-table, and a nice <i>impromptu</i> addition to the - dessert at a dinner; and soon prepared, as it requires no cooking. When - the fruit is in season, a dessert for a small company may consist entirely - of orange cocoa-nut, raspberry charlotte, and cream strawberries. - </p> - <p> - Never send oranges whole to table. To ladies they are unmanageable in - company. - </p> - <p> - <i>Creamed Strawberries.</i>—Take fine large ripe strawberries. Hull - or stem them, and set them on ice till just before they are wanted. Divide - them into saucerfulls. If you have glass saucers, they will make a better - show than china. Put some powdered white sugar in the bottom of each - saucer. Fill them with strawberries, and then strew on a liberal allowance - of sugar, for American strawberries (however fine in appearance) are - seldom sweet. Have ready sufficient whipped cream, that has been frothed - with rods or with a tin cream-churn. Pile high a portion of the whipt - cream on each saucer of strawberries.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_506" id="Page_506">[506]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Strawberries are sometimes eaten with wine and sugar, when cream is not - convenient. With <i>milk</i> they curdle, and are unwholesome—besides - tasting poorly. - </p> - <p> - <i>Creamed Pine-apple.</i>—Cut into four pieces two large ripe - pine-apples. Stand them up successively in a deep dish, and grate them - from the rind. When all is grated, transfer it to a large glass bowl, and - make it very sweet by mixing in powdered white loaf sugar. Whip to a stiff - froth a sufficiency of rich cream, adding to it some sugar, and heap it - high upon the grated pine-apple. - </p> - <p> - <i>Peaches and Cream.</i>—Take fine juicy freestone peaches. Pare - them, and cut them in slices. Put them, with their juice, into a large - bowl, and make them very sweet with powdered loaf sugar. Set them on ice, - and let them remain in the juice till wanted. Then send them to table with - fresh sugar sifted over the top. Set near them pitchers of plain cream, - not frothed. - </p> - <p> - If you cannot obtain cream, it is better to be satisfied with sugar alone, - than to substitute milk, with peaches, or any other fruit. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LEMON TAFFY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put into a porcelain-lined preserving kettle three pounds of the best loaf - sugar, and pour on it a pint and a half of very clear water. When it has - entirely dissolved, set it over the fire, and add a table spoonful of fine - cider vinegar to assist in clearing it as it boils. Boil and skim it well, - and when no more scum rises<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_507" - id="Page_507">[507]</a></span> add the juice of four large lemons or - oranges. Let it boil till it will boil no longer, stirring it well. When - done transfer it to square tin pans, that have been made very clean and - bright, and that are slightly greased with sweet oil. Set the taffy away - to cool, first marking it with a knife, while soft. Mark it in straight - lines the broad or crossway of the pans. If marked lengthways, the pieces - will be too long. When the taffy is cold, cut it according to the lines, - in regular slips, like cocoa-nut candy. It is for a handsome supper party. - Serve it up in glass dishes. - </p> - <p> - Orange taffy is made in the same manner. These candies should be kept in - tin boxes. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cocoa-nut Candy</i>—Is made in the manner of taffy, using finely - grated cocoa-nut, instead of lemon or orange. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Split, cut up, and boil a large vanilla bean in half a pint of rich milk, - till it is highly flavored, and reduced to one-half. Then strain out the - vanilla through a strainer so fine as to avoid all the seeds. Mix the - strained milk with half a pint of rich cream. Beat five eggs till very - smooth and thick. Strain them, and add them gradually to the cream when it - is entirely cold, to make a rich custard. Set this custard over the fire - (stirring it all the time) till it simmers; but take it off before it - comes to a boil, or it will curdle. Set it on ice. Have ready in another - sauce-pan an ounce of the best<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_508" - id="Page_508">[508]</a></span> Russia isinglass, boiled in half a pint of - water, till it is all dissolved into a thick jelly. When both are cold, - (but not hard) mix the custard and the isinglass together, and add four - table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Then take a large lump of loaf - sugar, and rub off on it the yellow rind of two large lemons. Scrape off - the lemon-grate with a tea-spoon, and add it to the mixture, with the lump - of sugar powdered and crushed fine. Mix together the strained juice of the - lemons, and two glasses of madeira; dissolve in them the lemon-flavored - sugar, and mix it with a pint of rich cream that has been whipped with a - whisk to a strong froth. Add the whipped cream gradually to the custard, - starring very hard at the time, and also after the whole is mixed. Then - set it on ice. - </p> - <p> - Cover the bottom of a flat oval dish with a slice of almond sponge cake, - cut to fit. Prepare a sufficient number of oblong slices of the cake, (all - of the same size and shape) to go all round; with one extra slice, in case - they should not quite hold out. Dip every one in a plate of beaten white - of egg to make them adhere. Stand each of them up on one end, round the - large oval slice that lies at the bottom. Make them follow each other - evenly and neatly, (every one lapping a little way over its predecessor) - till you have a handsome wall of slices, cemented all round by the white - of egg. Fill it quite full with the custard mixture. Cover the top with - another oval slice of cake, cemented with a little white of egg<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_509" id="Page_509">[509]</a></span> to the - upper edge of the wall. Make a nice icing in the usual way, of powdered - sugar beaten into frothed white of egg, and flavored with lemon, orange, - or rose. Spread this icing thickly and smoothly over the cake that covers - the top of the charlotte, and ornament it with a handsome pattern of sugar - flowers. There is no charlotte russe superior to this. - </p> - <p> - <i>Another Charlotte Russe.</i>—Have a very nice circular lady cake. - It should be iced all over, and ornamented with sugar flowers. Take off - the top nicely, and without breaking or defacing, and hollow out the - inside, leaving the sides and bottom standing. The cake taken from the - inside may be cut in regular pieces and used at tea, or for other - purposes. Make a very fine boiled custard, according to the preceding - receipt. Fill with it the empty cake, as if filling a mould. Then put on - the lid, set the whole on ice, and when wanted serve it up on a glass or - china dish. - </p> - <p> - A charlotte that requires no cooking may be very easily made by hollowing - a nice circular almond sponge cake, and filling it with layers of small - preserves, and piling on the top whipped cream finely flavored. - </p> - <p> - For the walls of a charlotte russe you may use the oblong sponge cakes, - called Naples biscuits, or those denominated lady fingers, dipping them - first in beaten white of egg, standing them on end, and arranging them so - as to lap over each other in forming the wall. Arrange some of them - handsomely to cover the top of the custard.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_510" id="Page_510">[510]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ICE CREAM.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pewter freezers for ice cream are better than those of block tin; as in - them the freezing goes on more gradually and thoroughly, and it does not - melt so soon, besides being smoother when done. The ice tub should be - large enough to allow ample space all round (six inches, at least,) the - freezer as it stands in the centre, and should have a plug at the bottom - (beneath the freezer) for letting out the water that drips from the ice; - that a large coarse woolen cloth should be folded, and laid under it and - around it. The ice should be broken up into small bits, and mixed with - coarse salt, in the proportion of a pound of salt to five pounds of ice. - Fill the tub within three inches of the top; pounding and pressing down - hard the mixed ice and salt. Have ready all the ingredients. To every - quart of <i>real</i> rich cream mix in a pint of milk, (not more) and half - a pound of fine loaf sugar. The following are the most usual flavorings, - all the fruit being made very sweet. Ripe strawberries or raspberries, - mashed through a sieve till all the juice is extracted; ripe juicy - freestone peaches, pared, and cut in half, the kernels being taken from - the stones, are pounded, and mashed with the fruit through a cullender; - all the juice that can be mashed out of a sliced pine-apple, the grated - yellow rind and the juice of lemons or oranges, allowing two to each quart - of cream, and mixing the juice with plenty of sugar before it is put to - the cream. A handful of shelled bitter almonds blanched, broken, and - boiled by themselves in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_511" - id="Page_511">[511]</a></span> half a pint of milk till all the almond - flavor is extracted, and then strain the bitter almond milk into the - cream. For vanilla flavor, split and cut up a vanilla bean, boil it by - itself in a half pint of milk, and when highly flavored, strain the - vanilla milk into the cream. For chocolate ice cream, scrape down a - quarter of a pound of Baker's prepared cocoa, and melt it in just water - enough to cover it; then sweeten and mix it gradually into a quart of rich - milk, (boiling at the time) and then boil and stir it till strong and - smooth. Ice cream is spoiled by the addition of eggs. Besides giving it a - yellowish color, eggs convert it into mere frozen custard, particularly if - instead of using real cream, it is made of milk thickened with arrow-root - or flour. For company at least, ice cream should be made in the best and - most liberal manner, or else do not attempt it. Mean ice cream is a very - mean thing. - </p> - <p> - When all the ingredients are prepared and mixed, put the whole into the - freezer, and set it in the ice tub; and having put on the lid tightly, - take the freezer by the handle and turn it about very fast for five or six - minutes. Then remove the lid carefully, and scrape down the cream from the - sides with a spaddle or long-handled spoon. Repeat this frequently while - it is freezing, taking care to keep the sides clear, stirring it well to - the bottom, and keeping the tub well filled with salt and ice outside the - freezer. - </p> - <p> - After the cream has been well frozen in the freezer, transfer it to - moulds, pressing it in hard,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_512" - id="Page_512">[512]</a></span> so as to fill every part of the mould. Then - set the mould in a fresh tub of ice and salt, (using as before the - proportion of a pound of salt to five pounds of ice) and let it remain - undisturbed in the mould for an hour, not turning it out till it is time - to serve it up to the company. Then wrap a cloth, dipped in warm water, - round the outside of the moulds, open them, and turn out the frozen cream - on glass or china dishes, and serve it up immediately. - </p> - <p> - Unless ice cream is very highly flavored at the beginning, its taste will - be much weakened in the process of freezing. - </p> - <p> - The most usual form of ice cream moulds are pyramids, dolphins, doves, and - baskets of fruit. We have seen ice cream in the shape of a curly lap-dog, - and very well represented. - </p> - <p> - If you eat what is called strawberry ice cream looking of an exquisite - rose-pink color, there is no strawberry about it, either in tint or taste. - It is produced by alkanet or cochineal. Real strawberries do not color so - beautifully; neither do raspberries, or any other sort of red fruit. But - genuine fruit syrups may be employed for this purpose, having at least the - true taste. To make strawberry or raspberry syrup, prepare first what is - called simple syrup, by melting a pound of the best double-refined loaf - sugar in half a pint of cold water; and when melted, boiling them - together, and skimming it perfectly clean. Then stir in as much fruit - juice (mashed and strained,)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_513" - id="Page_513">[513]</a></span> as will give it a fine tinge, and let it - have one more boiling up. - </p> - <p> - <i>Vanilla Syrup.</i>—Take six fine fresh vanilla beans. Split, and - cut them in pieces. Scrape the seeds loose in the pods with your finger - nail, and bruise and mash the shells. All this will increase the vanilla - flavor. Put all you can get of the vanilla into a small quart of what is - called by the druggist "absolute alcohol." Cork the bottle closely, and - let the vanilla infuse in it a week. Then strain it through a very fine - strainer that will not let out a single seed. Have ready half a dozen pint - bottles of simple syrup. Put into every bottle of the simple syrup a - portion of the strained infusion of vanilla. Cork it tightly and use it - for vanilla flavoring in ice creams, custards, blancmange, &c. - </p> - <p> - <i>Orange or Lemon Syrups</i>—Are made by paring off the yellow rind - very thin (after the fruit has been rolled under your hand on a table to - increase the juice,) then boiling the rind till the water is highly - flavored. Strain this water over the best loaf sugar, allowing two pounds - of sugar to a pint of juice. The sugar being melted, mix it with the - juice. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WATER ICES OR SHERBET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Water ices are made of the juice of fruits, very well sweetened, mixed - with a little water, and frozen in the manner of ice cream, to which they - are by many persons preferred. They are all prepared nearly<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_514" id="Page_514">[514]</a></span> in the - same manner, allowing a pint of juice to a pint of water, and a quarter of - a pound of sugar. Mix it well, and then freeze it in the manner of ice - cream, and serve it up in glass bowls. For lemon and orange sherbet, first - roll the fruit on a table under your hand; then take off a very thin - paring of the yellow rind, and boil it slowly in a very little water, till - all the flavor is extracted. Next, strain the flavored water into the cold - water you intend to mix with the juice, and make it very sweet with loaf - sugar. Squeeze the juice into it through a tin strainer to avoid the - seeds. Stir the whole very hard, and transfer it to a freezer. Orange - water-ice is considered the best, if well made. For pine-apple water-ice, - pare, core, and slice fine <i>ripe</i> apples very thin. Put them into a - dish with thick layers of powdered loaf sugar; cover the dish, and let - them lie several hours in the sugar. Then press out all the juice you can, - from the pine-apple; mix it with a little water, and freeze it. To two - large pine-apples allow a half pound of sugar, which has been melted in a - quart of boiling water. This looks very well frozen in a mould shaped like - a pine-apple. <i>Orange</i> sherbet may be frozen in a pine-apple mould. - It can be made so rich with orange juice as to perfume the whole table. - </p> - <p> - <i>Roman Punch</i>—Is made of strong lemonade or orangeade, adding - to every quart a pint of brandy or rum. Then freeze it, and serve in - saucers or a large glass bowl. Put it into a porcelain kettle, and boil - and skim it till the scum ceases to rise.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_515" id="Page_515">[515]</a></span> When cold, bottle it, seal - the corks and keep it in a cool place. - </p> - <p> - Syrup of strawberries, raspberries, currants and blackberries, is made in - a similar manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FLOATING ISLAND.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For one common-sized floating island have a round thick jelly cake, lady - cake, or almond sponge cake, that will weigh a pound and a half, or two - pounds. Slice it downwards, almost to the bottom, but do not take the - slices apart. Stand up the cake in the centre of a glass bowl or a deep - dish. Have ready a pint and a half of rich cream, make it very sweet with - sugar, and color it a fine green with a tea-cupful of the juice of pounded - spinach, boiled five minutes by itself; strained, and made very sweet. Or - for coloring pink you may use currant jelly, or the juice of preserved - strawberries. Whip to a stiff froth another pint and a half of sweetened - cream, and flavor it with a large glass of mixed wine and brandy. Pour - round the cake, as it stands in the dish or bowl, the colored unfrothed - cream, and pile the whipped white cream all over the cake, highest on the - top<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_516" id="Page_516">[516]</a></span>. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="FINE_CAKES" id="FINE_CAKES"></a>FINE CAKES. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - PLUM CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - In making very fine plum cake first prepare the fruit and spice, and sift - the flour (which must be the very best superfine,) into a large flat dish, - and dry it before the fire. Use none but the very best fresh butter; if of - inferior quality, the butter will taste through every thing, and spoil the - cake. In fact, all the ingredients should be excellent, and liberally - allowed. Take the best bloom or muscatel raisins, seeded and cut in half. - Pick and wash the currants or plums through two waters, and dry them well. - Powder the spice, and let it infuse over night in the wine and brandy. Cut - the citron into slips, mix it with the raisins and currants, and dredge - all the fruit very thickly, on both sides, with flour. This will prevent - its sinking or clodding in the cake, while baking. Eggs should always be - beaten till the frothing is over, and till they become thick and smooth, - as thick as a good boiled custard, and quite smooth on the surface. If you - can obtain hickory-rods as egg-beaters, there is nothing so good; but if - you cannot get <i>them</i>, use the common egg-beaters, of thin fine wire. - For stirring butter and sugar you should have a spaddle, which resembles a - short mush-stick flattened at one end. Stir the butter and sugar in a deep - earthen pan, and continue till it is light, thick, and creamy. Beat eggs - always in a broad shallow earthen pan, and with a short<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_517" id="Page_517">[517]</a></span> quick - stroke, keeping your right elbow close to your side, and moving only your - wrist. In this way you may beat for an hour without fatigue. But to stir - butter and sugar is the hardest part of cake making. Have this done by a - man servant. His strength will accomplish it in a short time—also, - let him give the final stirring to the cake. If the ingredients are - prepared as far as practicable on the preceding day, the cake may be in - the oven by ten or eleven o'clock in the forenoon. - </p> - <p> - For a large plum cake allow one pound, (or a quart) of sifted flour; one - pound of fresh butter cut up in a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in a deep - pan; twelve eggs; two pounds of bloom raisins; two pounds of Zante - currants; half a pound of citron, either cut into slips or chopped small; - a table-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, mixed; two grated nutmegs; - a large wine-glass of madeira (or more), a wine-glass of French brandy, - mixed together, and the spice steeped in it. - </p> - <p> - First stir the butter and sugar to a light cream, and add to them the - spice and liquor. Then beat the eggs in a shallow pan till very thick and - smooth, breaking them one at a time into a saucer to ascertain if there is - a bad one among them. One stale egg will spoil the whole cake. When the - eggs are very light, stir them gradually into the large pan of butter and - sugar in turn with the flour, that being the mixing pan. Lastly, add the - fruit and citron, a little at a time of each,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_518" id="Page_518">[518]</a></span> and give the whole a hard - stirring. If the fruit is well floured it will not sink, but it will be - seen evenly dispersed all over the cake when baked. Take a large - straight-sided block tin pan, grease it inside with the same butter used - for the cake, and put the mixture carefully into it. Set it immediately - into a well-heated oven, and keep up a steady heat while it is baking. - When nearly done, the cake will shrink a little from the sides of the pan; - and on probing it to the bottom with a sprig from a corn broom, or a - splinter-skewer, the probe will come out clean. Otherwise, keep the cake - in the oven a little longer. If it cracks on the top, it is a proof of its - being very light. When quite done, take it out. It will become hard if - left to grow cold with the oven. Set it to cool on an inverted sieve. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ICING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Allow to the white of each egg a quarter of a pound of the best loaf - sugar, finely powdered; but if you find the mixture too thin, you must add - still more sugar. Put the white of egg into a shallow pan, and beat it - with small rods or a large silver fork, till it becomes a stiff froth, and - stands alone without falling. Then beat in the powdered sugar, a - tea-spoonful at a time. As you proceed, flavor it with lemon juice. This - will render the icing whiter and smoother, also improving the taste. You - may ice the cake as soon as it becomes lukewarm, without waiting till it - is quite cold. Dredge it lightly with flour to<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_519" id="Page_519">[519]</a></span> absorb the grease from the - outside; then wipe off the flour. With a broad knife put some icing on the - middle of the cake, and then spread it down, thickly and evenly, all over - the top and sides, smoothing it with another knife dipped in cold water. - When this is quite dry, spread on a second coat of icing rather thinner - than the first, and flavored with rose. Set it a few minutes in the oven - to harden the icing, leaving the oven-door open; or place it beneath the - stove. When the icing is quite dry, you may ornament it with sugar borders - and flowers; having ready, for that purpose, some additional icing. By - means of a syringe, (made for the purpose, and to be obtained at the best - furnishing stores) you can decorate the surface of the cake very - handsomely; but it requires taste, skill, and practice. You may first - cover the cake with pink, brown, green, or other colored icing, and then - take white icing to decorate it, forming the pattern by moving your hand - skilfully and steadily over it, and pressing it out of the syringe as you - go. An easier way is to ornament the cake (when the top-icing is nearly - dry, but not quite,) with large strawberries or raspberries, or purple - grapes placed very near each other, and arranged in circles or patterns. - Be careful not to mash the berries. - </p> - <p> - <i>Warm Icing.</i>—This is made in the usual proportion of the - whites of four eggs, beaten to stiff froth, and a pound of finely powdered - loaf sugar afterwards added to it, gradually. Then boil the egg and sugar - in a porcelain kettle, and skim it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_520" - id="Page_520">[520]</a></span> till the scum ceases to rise. Take it off - the fire, and stir into it sufficient orange juice, lemon juice, or - rose-water, to flavor it highly. Flour your cake—wipe off the flour, - put on the icing with a broad knife, and then smooth it with another knife - dipped in cold water. For this icing the cake should be warm from the - oven, and dried slowly and gradually afterwards. Warm icing is much liked. - It is very light; rises thick and high in cooling, and has a fine gloss. - Try it. The mixture called by the French a <i>meringue</i>, and used for - macaroons, kisses, and other nice articles, is made in the same manner as - icing for cakes, allowing a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar to - every beaten white of egg. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POUND CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - One of Mrs. Goodfellow's maxims was, "up-weight of flour, and down-weight - of every thing else"—and she was right, as the excellence of her - cakes sufficiently proved, during the thirty years that she taught her art - in Philadelphia, with unexampled success. Therefore, allow for a pound - cake a rather small pound of sifted flour; a large pound of the best fresh - butter, a large pound of powdered loaf sugar, ten eggs, or eleven if they - are small; a large glass of mixed wine and brandy; a glass of rose-water; - a grated nutmeg, and a heaped tea-spoonful of mixed spice, powdered mace, - and cinnamon. Put the sugar into a <i>deep</i> earthen pan, and cut up the - butter among it. In cold weather place it near<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_521" id="Page_521">[521]</a></span> the fire a few minutes, - till the butter softens. Next, stir it very hard with a spaddle till the - mixture becomes very light. Next, stir in, gradually, the spice, liquor, - &c. Then beat the eggs in a shallow pan with rods or a whisk, till - light, thick, and smooth. Add them gradually to the beaten batter and - sugar, in turn with the flour; and give the whole a hard stirring at the - last. Have the oven ready with a moderate heat. Transfer the mixture to a - thick straight-sided tin pan well greased with the best fresh butter, and - smooth the butter on the surface. Set it immediately into the oven, and - bake it with a steady heat two hours and a half, or more. Probe it to the - bottom with a twig from a corn broom. When it shrinks a little from the - pan it is done. When taken out, set it to cool on an inverted sieve. When - you ice it, flavor the icing with lemon or rose. - </p> - <p> - It should be eaten fresh, as it soon becomes very dry. - </p> - <p> - Pound cake is not so much in use as formerly, particularly for weddings - and large parties; lady cake and plum cake being now substituted. A pound - cake may be much improved by the addition of a pound of citron, sliced, - chopped well, dredged with flour to prevent its sinking, and stirred - gradually into the batter, in turn with the sifted flour and beaten egg.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_522" id="Page_522">[522]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - QUEEN CAKE— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Is made in the same manner as pound cake, only with a less proportion of - flour, (fourteen ounces, or two ounces less than a pound) as it must be - baked in little tins; and small cakes require less flour than large ones. - Also, (besides a somewhat larger allowance of spice, liquor, &c.) add - the juice and grated yellow rind of a lemon or two, and half a pound of - sultana or seedless raisins, cut in half and dredged with flour. Butter - your small cake tins, and fill to the edge with the batter. They will not - run over the edge if well made, and baked with a proper fire, but they - will rise high and fine in the centre. Ice them when beginning to cool, - flavoring the icing with lemon or rose. Queen cakes made <i>exactly</i> as - above are superlative. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ORANGE CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a mixture precisely as for queen cake, only omit the wine, brandy, - and rose-water, and substitute the grated yellow rind and the juice of - four large ripe oranges, stirred into the batter in turn with the egg and - flour. Flavor the icing with orange juice. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LEMON CAKES— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Are also made as above, substituting for the oranges the grated rind and - juice of three lemons. To give a full taste, less lemon is required than - orange.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_523" id="Page_523">[523]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SPONGE CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Many persons suppose that sponge cake must be very easy to make, because - there is no butter in it. On the contrary, the want of butter renders it - difficult to get light. A really good sponge cake is a very different - thing from those numerous tough leathery compositions that go by that - name, and being flavored with nothing, are not worthy of eating <i>as cake</i>, - and are neither palatable nor wholesome as diet, unless too fresh to have - grown dry and hard. The best sponge cake we know of is made as follows, - and even that should be eaten the day it is baked. Sift half a pound of - flour, (arrow-root is still better,) in a shallow pan; beat twelve eggs - till very thick, light, and smooth. You need not separate the yolks and - whites, if you know the true way of adding the flour. Beat a pound of - powdered loaf sugar, gradually, (a little at a time) into the beaten eggs, - and add the juice and grated yellow rinds of two large lemons or oranges. - Lastly stir in the flour or arrow root. It is all important that this - should be done slowly and lightly, and without stirring down to the bottom - of the pan. Hold the egg-beater perpendicularly or quite upright in one - hand, and move it round on the surface of the beaten egg, while with the - other hand you lightly and gradually sprinkle in the flour till all is in. - If stirred in hard and fast it will render the cake porous and tough, and - dry and hard when cold. Have ready either a large turban mould, or some - small oblong or square tins. Butter them nicely, transfer to them the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_524" id="Page_524">[524]</a></span> cake - mixture, grate powdered sugar profusely over the surface to give it a - gloss like a very thin crust, and set it immediately into a brisk oven. - The small oblong cakes are called Naples biscuits, and require no icing. A - large turban cake may be iced plain, without ornament. - </p> - <p> - A <i>very light</i> sponge cake, when sliced, will cut down rough and - coarse grained, and it is desirable to have it so. - </p> - <p> - <i>Lady Fingers</i>—Are mixed in the same manner, and of the same - ingredients as the foregoing receipt for the best sponge cake. When the - mixture is finished, form the cakes by shaping the batter with a - tea-spoon, upon sheets of soft white paper slightly damped, forming them - like double ovals joined in the centre. Sift powdered sugar over them, and - bake them in a quick oven till slightly browned. When cool, take them off - the papers. They are sometimes iced. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ALMOND SPONGE CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The addition of almonds makes this cake very superior to the usual sponge - cake. Sift half a pound of fine flour or arrow root. Blanch in scalding - water two ounces of shelled sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones, - renewing the hot water when expedient. When the skins are all off, wash - the almonds in cold water, (mixing the sweet and bitter) and wipe them - dry. Pound them to a fine smooth paste, (one at a time,) in a very clean - marble mortar, adding, as you proceed, plenty of rose-water to prevent - their oiling. Then set them in a cool place. Beat twelve<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_525" id="Page_525">[525]</a></span> eggs - till very smooth and thick, and then beat into them, gradually, a pound of - powdered loaf sugar, in turn with the pounded almonds. Lastly, add the - flour, stirring it round slowly and lightly on the surface of the mixture, - as in common sponge cake. Have ready a <i>deep</i> square pan. Butter it - nicely. Put the mixture carefully into it, set it into the oven, and bake - it till thoroughly done and risen very high. When cool, cover it with - plain white icing, flavored with rose-water. With sweet almonds, always - use a small portion of bitter ones. Without them, <i>sweet</i> almonds - have little or no taste, though they add to the richness of the cake. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SPANISH BUNS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - In a shallow pan put a half pint of rich unskimmed milk, and cut up in it - a half pound of the best fresh butter. Set it on the stove, or near the - fire, to warm and soften, but do not let it melt or oil. When soft, stir - it all through the milk with a broad knife, and then set it away to cool. - Sift into a broad pan half a pound of the finest flour, and an additional - quarter of a pound put on a plate by itself. Beat four eggs in a shallow - pan till very thick and smooth, and mix them at once into the butter and - sugar, adding the half pound of flour. Stir in a powdered nutmeg, and two - wine-glasses of strong yeast, fresh from the brewer's, first removing the - thin liquid or beer from the top. Stir the mixture very hard with a knife, - and then add,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_526" id="Page_526">[526]</a></span> - <i>gradually</i>, half a pound of powdered white sugar. The buns will - become heavy if the sugar is thrown in all at once. It is important that - it should be added a little at a time. Then sprinkle in, by degrees, the - extra quarter of a pound of sifted flour, and lastly add a wine-glass of - strong rose-water. When all has been well stirred, butter (with fine fresh - butter,) an oblong iron or block-tin pan, and carefully put the bun - mixture into it. Cover it with a clean cloth, and set it near the fire to - rise. It may require five hours; therefore buns wanted for tea should be - made in the forenoon. When the batter has risen very high, and is covered - with bubbles, put the pan immediately into a moderate but steady oven, and - bake it. When cool, cut the buns into squares, and ice each one - separately, if for company; the icing being flavored with lemon or orange - juice. Otherwise, you may simply sift sugar over them. These buns were - first introduced by Mrs. Goodfellow; and in her school were always - excellently made, nothing being spared that was good, and the use of soda - and other alkalis being unknown in the establishment—hartshorn in - cakes would have horrified her. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LADY CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This cake must be flavored highly with bitter almonds; without them, sweet - almonds have little or no taste, and are useless in lady cake. Blanch, in - scalding water, three small ounces of shelled bitter almonds, and then lay<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_527" id="Page_527">[527]</a></span> them in - a bowl of very cold water. Afterwards wipe them dry, and pound them (one - at a time,) to a smooth paste in a clean marble mortar; adding, as you - proceed, a wine-glass of rose-water to improve the flavor, and prevent - their oiling, and becoming heavy and dark. When done, set them away in a - cool place, on a saucer. Almonds are always lighter and better when - blanched and pounded the day before. Cut up three quarters of a pound of - the best fresh butter in a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Mix it in a deep - earthen pan, and stir and beat it with a spaddle till it becomes very - light and creamy. Then, gradually, stir in the pounded almonds. Take the - <i>whites only</i> of seventeen or eighteen fresh eggs, and beat them in a - shallow pan to a stiff froth, till they stand alone. Then stir the beaten - white of egg, gradually, into the pan of creamed butter and sugar, in turn - with three small quarters of a pound (or a pint and a half,) of sifted - flour of the very best quality. Stir the whole very hard at the last, and - transfer it to a straight-sided tin pan, well greased with excellent fresh - butter. Set the pan immediately into an oven, and bake it with a moderate - but steady heat. When it has been baking rather more than two hours, probe - it by sticking down to the bottom a twig from a corn broom, or a very - narrow knife. If it comes out clean the cake is done; if clammy or daubed, - keep it longer in the oven. A cake when quite done generally shrinks a - little. When you take it out, set it to cool on an inverted sieve. Ice a<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_528" id="Page_528">[528]</a></span> lady - cake entirely with white, and ornament it with white flowers. It is now - much in use at weddings, and if well made, and quite fresh, there is no - cake better liked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CINNAMON CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up half a pound of fine fresh butter, and warm it till soft in half a - pint of rich milk. Sift a pound of fine flour into a broad pan; make a - hole in the centre, and pour into it the milk and butter, having stirred - them well together. Then, gradually, add a large quarter of a pound of - powdered sugar, and a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Beat three - eggs very smooth and thick, and stir them in, also a wine-glass and a half - of strong fresh brewer's yeast, or two glasses of fresh baker's yeast. - Then mix, (having sprinkled some over the top,) all the flour into the - hole in the centre, so as to make a soft dough. When all is well mixed - cover it, and set it to rise in a round straight-sided tin pan. Place it - near the fire, and when quite light and cracked all over the surface, - flour your pasteboard well, place the loaf upon it, and having prepared in - a pint bowl a stiff mixture of ground cinnamon, fresh butter, and brown - sugar, beaten together so as to stand alone, make numerous deep cuts or - incisions all over the surface on the sides and top of the cake; fill them - with the cinnamon mixture, and pinch each together so as to keep the - seasoning from coming out. Glaze it all over with beaten<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_529" id="Page_529">[529]</a></span> white of - egg a little sweetened. Then return the loaf to the pan, and bake it in a - moderate oven till thoroughly done. When cool, cut it down in slices like - a pound cake. - </p> - <p> - This dough may be divided into small round cakes, the size of a muffin, - and baked on tin or iron sheets, sifting sugar over them when cool. It - must have a high flavor of cinnamon. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WEST INDIA COCOA-NUT CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up and peel some pieces of very ripe cocoa-nut. Lay them for a while - in cold water. Then take them out and wipe them dry, and grate very fine - as much as will weigh half a pound. Beat eight eggs till very light, - thick, and smooth. Have ready half a pound of powdered loaf sugar, and - stir it into the pan of beaten egg, alternately with the grated cocoa-nut; - adding a handful of sifted flour, a powdered nutmeg, and a large glass of - madeira or sherry, stirring the whole very hard. Butter an oblong tin pan. - Put in the mixture, set it immediately into a quick oven, and bake it - well. Set it to cool on an inverted sieve; cut it into squares, and ice - each square, flavoring the icing with rose. - </p> - <p> - You may bake it in a large loaf; adding double portions of all the - ingredients, and ornamenting the icing handsomely. - </p> - <p> - <i>Sweet Potato Cake</i>—Is made like the above cocoa-nut cake. The - sweet potatos must be pared and grated <i>raw</i>, till you have as much - as weighs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_530" id="Page_530">[530]</a></span> - half a pound. Then proceed as above, and with the same ingredients and - proportions. You may boil and mash the sweet potatos; but be sure, - afterwards, to pass them through a coarse sieve, or they may chance to - clod and become heavy. If well made, and well flavored, this cake is very - nice. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GOLDEN CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The best time for making this cake is when ripe oranges are plenty. For - one cake select four large deep-colored oranges, and roll each one under - your hand upon a table to soften them, and increase the juice. Weigh a - pound of the best loaf sugar. On some of the largest pieces rub off the - yellow or outer rind of the oranges, omitting the white entirely. The - white or inner rind of oranges or lemons should never be used for any - thing. Cut the oranges, and squeeze their juice through a strainer into a - large saucer or a small deep plate. Powder all the sugar, including that - which has the orange zest upon it, and put it into a deep earthen pan, - with a pound of the best fresh butter cut up among it. With a wooden - spaddle stir the butter and sugar together, till very light and creamy. In - a shallow pan beat twelve eggs, omitting the <i>whites</i> of three. Sift - into a dish a small quart of the best and finest flour, and stir it - gradually into the pan of butter and sugar and orange, in turn with the - beaten egg, a little at a time of each. Stir the whole very hard; and when - done, immediately transfer the batter to square tin pans,<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_531" id="Page_531">[531]</a></span> greased - with the same fresh butter that was used for the cake. Many a fine cake - has been spoiled, at last, by the poor economy of greasing the pans with - salt butter. Fill the pans to the top. If the cake has been well made, and - well beaten, there is no danger of the batter running over the edges. Put - it, immediately, into a quick oven and bake it well, not allowing the heat - to be lessened till the cake is quite done. When cool, cut it into - squares. If you ice it, flavor the icing with orange juice. - </p> - <p> - Do not attempt to make this cake with yolk of egg only, by way of - improving the yellow color. Without any whites, it will assuredly be tough - and heavy. Cakes may be made light with white of egg only, but never with - yellow of egg only. - </p> - <p> - If you use soda, saleratus, hartshorn, or any of the alkalis, they will - entirely destroy the orange flavor, and communicate a bad taste of their - own. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SILVER CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Scald in a bowl of boiling water two ounces of shelled bitter almonds. As - you peel off the skins throw each almond into a bowl of ice-cold water. - When all are blanched, take them out, and wipe them dry on a clean napkin. - Put them, one at a time, into a very clean marble mortar, and pound each - one separately to a smooth paste, adding, as you pound them, a few drops - of strong rose-water, till you have used up a large wine-glass full. As - you remove<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_532" id="Page_532">[532]</a></span> - the pounded almonds from the water, lay them lightly and loosely on a - plate. When all are done, put them into a very cool place. In a deep - earthen pan cut up a pound of fresh butter into a pound of powdered sugar, - and with a wooden spaddle stir the butter and sugar together till - perfectly light. Into another pan sift three quarters of a pound of fine - flour, and in a broad shallow pan beat with small rods the whites only of - eighteen eggs till they are stiff enough to stand alone. Then, gradually, - and alternately, stir into the pan of beaten butter and sugar the flour, - the beaten white of eggs, and the pounded almonds. Give the whole a hard - stirring at the last. Transfer it to square tin pans greased with the same - butter, and bake it well. When cool, cut it into square cakes, and send it - to table on china plates, piled alternately with pieces of golden cake, - handsomely arranged. If you ice silver cake, flavor the icing with strong - rose-water. - </p> - <p> - These cakes, (gold or silver) if made as above, will be found delicious. - The yolk of egg left from the silver cake may be used for soft custards. - But yolk of egg alone, will not raise a cake; though white of egg will. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - APEES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of sifted flour, and - rubbing the butter very fine, and mixing in a pound of powdered sugar, - with a heaped tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon, and - four tea-spoon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_533" id="Page_533">[533]</a></span>fuls - of carraway seeds. Moisten the whole with a large glass of white wine; and - barely sufficient cold water to make a stiff dough. Mix it well with a - broad knife, and roll it out into a sheet less than half an inch thick; - then with the edge of a tumbler, or a tin cake-cutter, divide it into - round small cakes. Bake them in oblong pans, (tin or iron) slightly - buttered; and do not place them so closely as to touch. Bake them in a - quick oven, till they are of a pale brown. These cakes are soon prepared, - requiring neither eggs nor yeast. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MARMALADE MERINGUES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Make a mixture as for apees, omitting only the carraway seeds. Roll out - the sheet of dough quite thin; cut it into round flat cakes with the edge - of a tumbler, and bake them a few minutes, till lightly colored. Take them - out of the oven and spread them thickly with very nice marmalade, or with - ripe strawberries or raspberries, sweetened, and mashed without cooking. - Have ready a stiff meringue of beaten white of egg and sugar. Pile it high - over the marmalade on each cake. Heap it on with a spoon, so as quite to - conceal the marmalade, and do not smooth it on the top. It should stand up - <i>uneven</i> as the spoon left it. Set it again in the oven for a minute - or two, to harden it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_534" id="Page_534">[534]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - JUMBLES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mix together, all at once, in a deep pan, a pound of butter cut up in a - pound of powdered sugar, a pound of sifted flour, and six eggs, previously - beaten very light in a pan by themselves. Add a table-spoonful of powdered - spice, (mixed nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon) and a glass of mixed wine and - brandy; or else a glass of rose water; or the juice and grated yellow rind - of a large lemon. Stir the whole very hard till all the ingredients are - thoroughly mixed, and become a soft dough. Flour your hands and your - pasteboard, and lay the dough upon it. Take off equal portions from the - lump, and with your hands form them into round rolls, and make them into - rings by joining together the two ends of each. Place the jumbles (not so - near as to touch,) in tin pans slightly buttered, and bake them in a very - brisk oven little more than five or six minutes, or enough to color them a - light brown. If the oven is too cool, the jumbles will spread and run into - each other. When cold, sift sugar over them. <i>Jumbles</i> may be made - with yolks of eggs only, if the whites are wanted for something else. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cocoa-nut Jumbles</i>—Are made as above, only with finely grated - cocoa-nut instead of flour, and with white of egg instead of yolk. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cocoa-nut Puffs.</i>—Grate any quantity of cocoa-nut. Mix it with - powdered sugar and a little beaten white of egg, and lay it in small heaps - of equal size. On the top of each place a ripe strawberry, raspberry, or - any small preserved<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_535" id="Page_535">[535]</a></span> - fruit, flattening a slight hollow, to hold it without its rolling off. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SCOTCH CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pound of fresh butter, a pound of powdered white sugar, and two - pounds of sifted flour. Mix the sugar with the flour, and rub the butter - into it, crumbled fine. Add a heaped table-spoonful of mixed nutmeg and - cinnamon. Put <i>no water</i>, but moisten it entirely with butter. A - small glass of brandy is an improvement. Roll it out into a large thick - sheet, and cut it into round cakes about the size of saucers. Bake them on - flat tins, slightly buttered. This cake is very crumbly but very good, and - of Scottish origin. It keeps well, and is often sent from thence, packed - in boxes. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - JELLY CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For baking jelly cake you must have large flat tin pans rather larger than - a dinner plate. But a very clean soap-stone griddle may be substituted, - though more troublesome. Make a rich batter as for pound cake, and bake it - in single cakes, (in the manner of buckwheat, or thicker) taking care to - grease the tin or soap-stone with <i>excellent</i> fresh butter. Have - ready, enough of fruit jelly or marmalade, to spread a thick layer all - over each cake when it cools. Pile one on another very evenly, till you - have four, five, or half a dozen; and ice the surface of the whole. Cut it - down in triangular<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_536" id="Page_536">[536]</a></span> - pieces like a pie. Jelly cake is no longer made of sponge cake, which is - going out of use for all purposes, as being too often dry, tough, and - insipid, and frequently not so good as plain bread. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ALMOND MACAROONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The day before they are wanted, prepare three quarters of a pound of - shelled sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds; - by scalding, blanching, and pounding them to a smooth paste in a marble - mortar, (one or two at a time) adding, as you proceed, rose-water to - prevent their oiling, and becoming dark and heavy. Having beaten to a - stiff froth the whites of six eggs, and prepared a pound of powdered loaf - sugar, beat the sugar into the egg a spoonful at a time. Then mix in - gradually the pounded almonds, and add a grated nutmeg. Stir the whole - very hard, and form the mixture into small round balls. Then flatten - slightly the surface of each. Butter slightly some shallow tin pans. Place - the macaroons not so close as to be in danger of touching; and glaze them - lightly with a little beaten white of egg. Put them into a brisk oven, and - bake them a light brown. - </p> - <p> - Ground-nut macaroons are made in the same manner. - </p> - <p> - <i>Chocolate Macaroons.</i>—Scrape down, very fine, half a pound of - Baker's prepared cocoa. Beat to a stiff froth the white of four eggs, and - beat into the white of egg a pound of powdered loaf<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_537" id="Page_537">[537]</a></span> sugar, in turn with the - chocolate, adding a little sifted flour if the mixture appears too thin. - Grease the bottom of some oblong tin pans, very slightly, with sweet oil. - Having formed the mixture into small thick cakes, lay them (not close,) in - the pan, and bake them a few minutes. Sift sugar over them while warm. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - KISSES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having beaten to a stiff froth, till it stands alone, the whites of eight - eggs, mix with it, gradually, three quarters of a pound of finely powdered - loaf sugar, beating it in very hard, a spoonful at a time, and as you - proceed flavoring it with extract of vanilla, rose, or lemon juice. If the - meringue is not thoroughly beaten and very stiff, the kisses will lose - their shape and run in baking. Try one first, and if that runs, beat a - while longer before you bake the whole. Pile portions of the meringue on - sheets of letter paper, placing each heap far apart. Smooth and shape them - with a broad knife dipped in cold water. Make them about the size and form - of half eggs, with the flat part downwards. Arrange them on a smooth - hickory board, and set it in a quick oven, (leaving the door open) and - watch them well. A few minutes will color them a pale brown, and that is - all they require. Then take them out, and set them to cool. When cool, - slip a knife carefully under each, and remove them from the paper. Then - with your knife hollow the meringue from the base of each kis<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_538" id="Page_538">[538]</a></span>s and - scrape upwards toward the top, being careful not to break through the - outside or crust. Fill up this vacancy with any sort of stiff jelly. Then - clap two halves together, and unite them at the base, by moistening the - edges with a little of the meringue that was left. Handle them very - carefully throughout. - </p> - <p> - Large kisses, of twice or thrice the usual size, are introduced at - parties, filled with ice cream, or flavored calf's foot jelly. - </p> - <p> - It is very customary now to finish a fine charlotte russe with a thick - layer of this jelly at the top. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up in a deep pan half a pound of the best fresh butter, with a half - pound of excellent brown sugar; and stir it to cream with a spaddle. Add a - pint of West India molasses, mixed with half a pint of warm milk; four - table-spoonfuls of ginger; a heaped table-spoonful of mixed powdered - cinnamon and powdered mace and nutmeg; and a glass of brandy. Sift in a - pound and a half of fine flour. Beat six eggs till very light and thick, - and mix them, alternately, into the pan of butter, sugar, molasses, &c. - At the last, mix in the yellow rind (grated fine) of two large oranges and - the juice. Stir the whole very hard. Melt in one cup a very small level - tea-spoonful of soda, and in another a small level salt-spoon of tartaric - acid. Dissolve them both in lukewarm water, and see that both are quite - melted. First stir the soda<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_539" - id="Page_539">[539]</a></span> into the mixture, and then put in the - tartaric acid. On no account exceed the quantity of the two alkalis, as if - too much is used, they will destroy entirely the flavoring, and - communicate a very disagreeable taste instead. Few cakes are the better - for any of the alkaline powders, and many sorts are entirely spoiled by - them. Even in gingerbread they should be used very sparingly, rather less - than more of the prescribed quantity. Having buttered, (with the same - butter) a large round or oblong pan, put in the mixture, and bake it in a - moderate oven till thoroughly done, keeping up a steady heat, but watching - that it does not burn. There is no gingerbread superior to this, if well - made. Instead of lemon or orange, cut in half a pound of seedless raisins, - dredge them well with flour, and stir them, gradually, into the mixture. - </p> - <p> - This is also called Franklin gingerbread. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GINGER NUTS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut a pound of the best fresh butter into two pounds or two quarts of - sifted flour, and half a pound of fine brown sugar. Add four heaped - table-spoonfuls of ground ginger; a heaped table-spoonful of powdered - cinnamon, and the same quantity of mixed nutmeg and mace. Mix all the - ingredients thoroughly together; adding, gradually, a large pint of West - India molasses, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon or orange. - Stir it very hard with a spaddle. Flour your hands, break off<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_540" id="Page_540">[540]</a></span> pieces - of the dough, and knead each piece a little; then flatten them on the top. - Make them the size of a quarter dollar. Or, (flouring your pasteboard) - roll out the dough, and cut out the ginger-nuts with the edge of a small - wine-glass. Bake them on buttered tins, having first glazed them with a - thin mixture of molasses and water. The same dough may be baked in long - straight sticks, divided by lines deeply marked with a knife. - </p> - <p> - There are many other gingerbreads; but any of the soft sorts may be made - with little variation from the foregoing directions for Lafayette - gingerbread; and of the hard sort of ginger-nut preparation, the above is - the basis of the rest. If the receipts are liberally and exactly followed, - it will be found that to those two none are superior. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PIGEON PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For this pie take six fine fat tame pigeons, carefully cleaned and picked. - Lay them in cold water for an hour, changing the water twice during that - time. This is to remove what is called "the taste of the nest." Have ready - the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, seasoned with powdered nutmeg. Place a - bit of fresh butter rolled in flour, in the inside of each pigeon, with - its liver cut up, and with a yolk of egg seasoned with powdered mace. Lay - a nice tender beef steak, or thin veal cutlet, in the bottom of a large - deep dish, that has been lined with puff-paste. Butter the steak, and - dredge it with flour<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_541" id="Page_541">[541]</a></span>. - There must be meat enough to cover well the bottom of the pie dish. Lay - the pigeons upon it, with the breast downward, (their heads and feet cut - off, and their livers cut up, and put inside with the stuffing.) Fill up - the dish with water. Roll out and put on the lid of the pie, which you may - ornament with paste leaves or flowers, according to your taste. For - company, pigeon pies are expected to look handsome. It is no longer - fashionable to have the feet of the pigeons sticking out of the slit in - the top of the paste. - </p> - <p> - Moorfowl, pheasants, partridges, or quails, may be made into pies in the - above manner. It is usual, for partridge pies, to peel two fine sweet - oranges; and having divided them into quarters, carefully remove the - strings and seeds, and put the oranges into the birds without any other - stuffing. Instead of beef steak or veal cutlet, lay a thin slice of cold - ham in the bottom of the pie-dish. - </p> - <p> - This receipt, and the following, were accidentally omitted in their proper - places. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHICKEN PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Skin a pair of fine fowls, and cut them up. Save out the necks, backs, - feet, livers, and gizzards, and the ends of the pinions; and seasoning - them with a little pepper and salt add some trimmings or spare bits of - fresh beef or veal, and stew them in a small sauce-pan with a little - water, to make the gravy. Let them stew till all to rags, and then strain - off<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_542" id="Page_542">[542]</a></span> - the liquid; and while hot, stir into it a beaten egg and a bit of fresh - butter, dredged with flour. In the mean time make a nice puff-paste, and - roll it out rather thick; divide it in two circular sheets. Line with one - sheet the bottom and sides of a deep pie dish, and put in the best pieces - of chicken. Lay among them four hard-boiled eggs, sliced or quartered. - Season well with powdered mace or nutmeg. The gravy being strained, pour - that into the pie, and finish at the top with a layer of butter divided - into small pieces, and dredge with flour. This is what the old English - cookery books mean when they say—"Close the pie with a <i>lear</i>." - </p> - <p> - A chicken pie will be improved by the addition of a dozen or more large - fresh oysters, stewed. If you add oysters, take off the lid or upper crust - as soon as the pie is baked, and put in the oysters <i>then</i>; if put in - at the beginning, they will bake too long. Replace the lid nicely, and - send the pie to table hot. - </p> - <p> - The lid should have in the top a cross slit with a nice paste flower in - it. To make a paste flower roll out a straight narrow slip of paste, about - four or five inches wide. Roll it up with your fingers as if you were - rolling up a ribbon. Then with a sharp knife cut four clefts in the upper - half, and when baked, it will spread apart as like the leaves of a flower.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_543" id="Page_543">[543]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="SWEETMEATS" id="SWEETMEATS"></a>SWEETMEATS. - </h2> - <p> - No sweetmeats can either look well or taste well unless the fruit and the - sugar are of the best quality. As in all other branches of cookery, it is - false economy to provide bad or low-priced ingredients. It has of late - years been difficult to obtain <i>very</i> good sugar at any price, so - much is adulterated with flour or ground starch. In the common powdered - sugar the flour is so palpable that we are surprised at its having any - sale at all; and the large quantity required to produce any perceptible - sweetness renders it totally unfit for sweetmeats, or indeed for any thing - else. The best brown sugar is better than this, having clarified it with - white of egg. To do this, allow to every pound of sugar the beaten white - of an egg, and a half pint of clear cold water. Having poured the water on - the sugar, let it stand to melt before it goes on the fire. Then add the - white of egg and put in on to boil. When it boils, carefully take off the - scum as it rises, and add when it is boiling hard another jill or quarter - pint of water for each pound of sugar. Remove it from the fire when the - scum ceases to rise, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour to settle. - Strain, and bottle it for use. The best brown sugar <i>thus prepared</i> - will make a good syrup; and good marmalade, when white sugar of the best - quality is not to be obtained. But for the nicest sweetmeats use always, - if you can, the best double-refined loaf.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_544" id="Page_544">[544]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - In warm weather there is nothing better for a preserving fire than a - portable charcoal furnace placed out in the open air; as in a room with - the doors or windows shut the vapor of charcoal is deadly, and never fails - to produce suffocation. Of whatever the fire is made, it should be clear - and steady without smoke or blaze. Never use copper or bell-metal for - either preserving or pickling. For all such purposes employ only iron, - lined with what is called porcelain or enamel, but is in reality a thick - strong white earthen, first made at Delft, in Holland. This lining will - crack if the kettle is placed over a blaze, which it should never be. All - sweetmeats should be boiled with the lid off. If covered, the steam having - no means of escaping, returns upon them, and causes them to look dark and - unsightly. When done, put the sweetmeats warm into jars or glasses, and - leave them open a few hours that the watery particles may evaporate, but - have them all pasted and closely covered before night. Do nothing to - render your preserves hard, or firm, as it is called. It is better to have - them soft and tender. The old custom of steeping them for days in salt and - water, and then boiling them in something else to remove the salt, is now - considered foolish, and is seldom practised. - </p> - <p> - Put up jellies and small sweetmeats in common tumblers, laying on the - surface of each a double cover of white tissue paper cut exactly to fit, - and then put on another cover of thick white paper pleated and notched - where it descends below the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_545" - id="Page_545">[545]</a></span> edge, using always gum tragacanth paste, - which you should keep always in the house, as it requires no boiling; and - if in making it, a bit of corrosive sublimate (not larger than a - cherry-stone) is dissolved with the ounce of gum tragacanth and the half - pint of warm water, in a yellow or white-ware mug, and <i>stirred only - with a stick</i>, the paste will never spoil, and if kept covered, will be - found superior to all others. No metal must touch this cement, as it will - then turn black and spoil. - </p> - <p> - Keep your sweetmeats always in a dry place. But if after a while you see a - coat of mould on the surface, you need not throw them away, till you have - tried to recover them by carefully removing every particle of mould, - filling up the jars with fresh sugar, and setting them, one by one, in a - bottle of water, and in this way boiling them over again. But if they have - an unpleasant smell, and you see insects about them, of course they must - be thrown away. To purify jars, clean and scrape them, and wash them - thoroughly with ley and water, or with a solution of soda—afterwards - exposing them to the sun and air for a week or more. - </p> - <p> - <i>Jellies.</i>—We have already given directions for various fruit - jellies in the chapter on Fine Desserts. They are all made nearly in the - same manner, using the juice of the fruit, and sufficient sugar to make it - congeal and to keep it. Jellies should always be bright and transparent, - and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_546" id="Page_546">[546]</a></span> - therefore require the best and ripest of fruit and the finest of loaf - sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MARMALADE OR JAMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Marmalade or jams are the easiest sweetmeats to make, and are useful for - all sweetmeat purposes. They are all made nearly in the same manner; and - to be very good, and to keep well, at least a pound of fine sugar should - be allowed to every pound of fruit—the fruit being quite ripe, - freshly gathered, and of the best kind. - </p> - <p> - <i>For Peach Marmalade</i>—Take fine, juicy free-stone peaches. Pare - them; cut them in half; remove the stones, and let them be saved and the - kernels extracted to use as bitter almonds. Cut up the peaches, and allow - for each pound a pound of sugar. Lay the peaches (with all the sugar among - them,) in a large pan or tureen, and let them rest for three or four - hours. Boil the peaches and sugar together in a porcelain kettle (without - a cover) for half an hour, skimming and stirring well. When it becomes a - thick smooth mass it is finished. Put it up in glass jars, and leave it - uncovered till cool; but not longer. The flavor will be much improved by - boiling with the peaches and sugar one or two handfuls of the kernels, - blanched and pounded; or else a bunch of fresh peach leaves, to be removed - afterward. - </p> - <p> - <i>Quince Marmalade</i> is made in the same manner—first carefully - removing all the blemishes. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of quinces.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_547" id="Page_547">[547]</a></span> They - must boil longer than peaches. All marmalades must be cooked till the form - of the fruit is quite indistinguishable, and till it mashes into a thick - smooth mass. Quinces should be allowed to remain on the trees till after - the first frost, which greatly improves them. Persimmons and wild grapes - are not eatable till they are touched by the frost. - </p> - <p> - <i>Tomato Marmalade.</i>—Make this when lemons are ripe and plenty. - To every two pounds of tomatos allow two pounds of sugar, and the grated - yellow rind and the juice of one lemon. The worst way of using lemons for - any purpose is to merely slice them. Depend on the slices for flavoring, - and they are wasted; the taste being scarcely perceptible. They should - always be first rolled under your hand, which increases the yield of - juice. Then grate off from the outside the <i>yellow</i> rind only (the - white part of the rind is worse than useless,) and having cut the lemon, - squeeze the juice through a tin strainer to exclude the seeds, which - otherwise would be troublesome to pick out. The yellow rind and the juice - are all you need want of a lemon for any purpose of flavoring. Scald the - tomatos to make them peel easily, and mix the sugar thoroughly with them. - Boil them slowly for an hour in a porcelain kettle, skimming carefully, - and stirring well after each skimming. Then add the lemon grate and the - juice, and boil the marmalade another half hour, or till it is a thick - smooth mass. - </p> - <p> - <i>Pumpkin Marmalade.</i>—Take a fine ripe high-<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_548" id="Page_548">[548]</a></span>colored pumpkin. Cut it up. - Empty it very clean of the seeds and strings; take off a thick paring. - Slice the pieces small and thin, and weigh them. To each pound of pumpkin - allow a pound of powdered sugar, and the grated peel and the juice of one - large lemon. Pumpkin sweetmeats require a high lemon flavoring. Boil the - pumpkin alone, till quite soft. Then mash it in a cullender till the water - is pressed out, and the pumpkin left dry. Afterwards put it into a - porcelain kettle, mix with it the sugar and lemon, and boil it again till - it becomes a thick jam. Cantaloupe marmalade is made in the same way with - lemon and sugar—also marmalade of ripe figs. - </p> - <p> - <i>Plum Marmalade.</i>—Choose plums that are fully ripe. Allow to - each pound a pound and a half of sugar. Scald them till the skins peel off - easily, and extract all the stones. Lay them in the sugar for two or three - hours or more, and then boil them till they become a thick smooth mass. - Green-gages the same. - </p> - <p> - <i>Raspberry Jam.</i>—To every quart of fine ripe raspberries allow - a pound of best loaf sugar, powdered. Put them together into a broad - white-ware pan, and let them rest for two or three hours. Then boil them - in an uncovered porcelain kettle, taking off the scum carefully. When no - more scum rises, mash them, and boil them to a smooth thick marmalade. - When cold, put it up in half pint tumblers, and cover them with rounds of - double tissue<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_549" id="Page_549">[549]</a></span> - paper, cut exactly to fit, and then with thick white paper dipped in - brandy. - </p> - <p> - <i>Strawberry Jam.</i>—The strawberries must be quite ripe, and very - fine. Allow to each quart a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Put them into a - large white-ware pan; a layer of sugar and a layer of strawberries - alternately, finishing with strawberries on the top. Let them rest in the - sugar and juice three or four hours. Then boil and skim them till they - become very thick and smooth. When cold, put them up in tumblers, with - double tissue paper over the top. Blackberry jam is made in the same - manner. - </p> - <p> - <i>Gooseberry Jam.</i>—Top and tail the gooseberries, which must be - thoroughly ripe, and with thin skins. They require to every pound of fruit - a pound and a half of sugar of the best sort. Mash them with a wooden - beetle, and put them with all the sugar into an uncovered porcelain - kettle, and boil and skim them. When half done add more sugar, and - continue boiling till they are a very thick marmalade. When cold, cover - the tumblers with brandy paper. - </p> - <p> - <i>Pine-apple Marmalade.</i>—Take the best and ripest pine-apples; - remove the leaves, and split each pine-apple into four pieces, and cut out - the core from the centre. Stand the pieces upright in a deep dish, and, - with a large coarse grater grate down all the <i>flesh</i> of the fruit, - as it is called. To every pint of grated pine-apple allow a pound of - powdered loaf sugar, and put them together in a large tureen. Let them - rest two<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_550" id="Page_550">[550]</a></span> - hours. Then transfer the whole to a porcelain kettle. Leave it uncovered; - and boil, skim, and stir, till it becomes a very thick marmalade. When - cool, put it up in glass jars. It is a very nice sweetmeat, particularly - for shells or tarts. - </p> - <p> - <i>Grape Marmalade.</i>—Take a sufficiency of fine grapes, - thoroughly ripe. Having picked them from the stems, mash them with a - wooden beetle, and then press them through a sieve. To every pint of the - pulp allow a pound of powdered sugar, well mixed in; let it stand an hour - or two. Then boil it, uncovered, in a porcelain kettle, skimming and - stirring well, till it is very thick and smooth. When cool, put it up in - small marmalade pots of white-ware with lids, and paste a band of thick - white paper round each, at the small crack where the cover fits on. A good - marmalade for the backwoods may be made of wild grapes and maple sugar. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cherry Marmalade.</i>—If you cannot procure morellas, (the best - of all cherries for sweetmeats) use the large Virginia or carnation - cherries. Black cherries are unfit for cooking. Stem and stone your - cherries, saving all the juice you can. Allow a pound of powdered loaf - sugar to every pint of cherries. Boil the fruit and the sugar together, - uncovered, for an hour, skimming and stirring. When cool, put it in - white-ware marmalade pots and paste the lids. - </p> - <p> - <i>Orange Marmalade.</i>—Quarter some large ripe oranges, and remove - the rind, the seeds, and the strings or filaments, taking care to save all<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_551" id="Page_551">[551]</a></span> the - juice. Put the pulp, with the juice, into a porcelain kettle, and mix with - it an equal quantity of strained honey, adding sufficient powdered loaf - sugar to render it very thick and sweet. The honey alone will not make it - sweet enough. Boil it uncovered, and skim it till very thick, smooth, and - clear. Taste it, and if necessary add more sugar, and boil it longer. When - cold, put it up in tumblers or white-ware marmalade pots, and cover it - securely. This marmalade is exquisite, and very superior to any other. - </p> - <p> - <i>Orange Milk.</i>—Take four dozen large ripe juicy oranges, and - roll them under your hand. Cut them in two; remove the seeds, and squeeze - the juice into a large clean stone jar. Have ready four pounds of the best - double-refined loaf sugar, dissolved in a gallon of French brandy. Pour it - into the jar that contains the orange juice; stir the mixture well, and - add the yellow rind of the oranges, pared so thin from the white as to be - transparent, and divide it into bits. Cover the jar, and let it stand four - days, stirring it frequently. Then take a gallon of new unskimmed milk, - (the morning's milk of that day,) boil it alone, and when it comes to a - hard boil pour it into the mixture of orange, sugar, and brandy. Cover it - closely, and let it stand till quite cold. Then strain it into another - vessel through a linen jelly bag. Bottle it immediately, and seal the - corks. It improves by keeping. To use it, pour it out in half tumblers, - and fill up with ice water, or serve it round undiluted in small cordial<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_552" id="Page_552">[552]</a></span> glasses, - after ice-cream. It is much admired, and in orange countries may be made - in large quantities. Lemon milk is made in the same manner, having a - larger proportion of sugar. - </p> - <p> - <i>Fruit in Syrups.</i>—Make a syrup in the proportion of half a - pint of water to every pound of sugar, and a pint of the juice of any sort - of fine ripe fruit. Boil and skim it till very clear, but not till it - congeals or jellies. Then bottle it, and cork the bottles. As the fresh - fruit comes again into season, select the finest, largest, and ripest. For - instance, half fill a white-ware preserve jar with fine fresh - strawberries, and fill up from a bottle of strawberry syrup; or ripe - raspberries with raspberry syrup; currants, with currant syrup, &c. - Cover them closely till wanted for immediate use. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PRESERVED CITRON MELONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take some fine citron melons; pare, core, and cut them into slices. Then - weigh them; and, to every six pounds of melon, allow six pounds of the - best double refined loaf sugar, and the juice and yellow rind (grated very - fine,) of four large fresh lemons, and <i>a quarter</i> of a pound of root - ginger. - </p> - <p> - Put the slices of lemon into a preserving kettle, and boil them half an - hour or more, till they look <i>quite</i> clear, and are so tender that a - broom twig will pierce through them. Then drain them; lay them in a broad - pan of cold water, cover them, and let them stand all night. In the - morning tie the root ginger in a thin muslin cloth, and boil<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_553" id="Page_553">[553]</a></span> it in - three pints of clear spring or pump water till the water is highly - flavored. Then take out the bag of ginger. Having broken up the sugar put - it into a clean preserving kettle, and pour the ginger water over it. When - the sugar is all melted set it over the fire, put in the grated yellow - peel of the lemons, and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Then put - in the sliced citrons, and the juice of the lemons; and boil them in the - syrup till all the slices are quite transparent, and so soft that a straw - will go through them; but do not allow them to break. When quite done, put - the slices (while still warm,) into wide-mouthed glass or white-ware jars, - and gently pour on the syrup. Lay inside of each jar, upon the top of the - syrup, a round of white paper dipped in brandy. Put on the lids of the - jars, and tie leather over them. - </p> - <p> - This will be found a delicious sweetmeat; equal to any imported from the - West Indies, and far less expensive. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PINE-APPLES PRESERVED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take six fine large pine-apples, as ripe as you can get them. Make them - very clean, but do not, at first, pare off the rind or cut off the leaves. - The rind and leaves being left on while boiling will <i>keep in</i> the - flavor of the fruit. Put the pine-apples whole into a very large and very - clean iron pot. Fill it up with cold water, and boil the pine-apples till - they are so tender that you can pierce them through the rind to the core, - with a splinter skewer or a twig from a corn broom. Then take them out of - the pot,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_554" id="Page_554">[554]</a></span> - and drain them. When they are so cool as to be handled without - inconvenience, remove the leaves, and pare off the rind. Cut then into - round slices about half an inch thick, extracting the core from the centre - as to leave a small round hole in every slice. Weigh them, and to each - pound of fruit allow a pound of double refined loaf sugar, broken up and - powdered. Cover the bottom of a large dish or dishes with a thick layer of - the sugar. On this place a layer of pine-apple slices; then a layer of - sugar; then a layer of fruit, and so on till the slices are all thickly - covered, finishing with a layer of sugar at the top. Let them stand - twenty-four hours. Then drain the slices from the syrup, and lay them in - wide jars. Put all the syrup into a clear porcelain kettle, and boil and - skim it till the scum ceases to rise. Then pour it hot upon the - pine-apple. While warm, cover the jars closely with white paper cut to - fit, and dipped in brandy; and then tie on a piece of bladder. There is no - better way of preserving pine-apples, or that retains the flavor so well. - </p> - <p> - Quinces may be preserved in the same manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PRESERVED LEMONS OR ORANGES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The fruit must be perfectly ripe, of the best quality, with a smooth rind - and fine color. Cut out from the stem end of each, a piece not quite the - size of a quarter dollar, and with a small knife scoop out all the inside, - keeping the rind as whole as possible. Put the pulp and juice into a large<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_555" id="Page_555">[555]</a></span> bowl, - and clear it from the strings and seeds. Lay the skins in a tureen of cold - ice water, and change it twice during the day, (fresh water and fresh - ice); and at bedtime put ice only. Next morning boil the skins slowly in a - porcelain kettle with plenty of water, keeping them well covered. Continue - to boil till they are tender all through, and can easily be pierced with a - splinter skewer. Then drain them, and lay them in cold water immediately. - Take care to boil with them the small round pieces that come out of the - top. Make a thick jelly or marmalade of the pulp and juice of these, and - some additional fruit, allowing to a pint of juice a pound of loaf sugar. - When the jelly has been boiled till clear and firm when held in the air, - fill with it the skins so as to swell them out into a good shape. Replace - the small circular pieces that have been cut off the top of the fruit, and - tie them on securely with packthread, so as to keep in the jelly. Next - make a thin syrup, allowing to a pound of broken-up loaf sugar half a pint - of fresh juice, and the beaten white of an egg. Boil and skim it till no - more scum rises. Then having put the oranges into large glass jars rather - more than half full, pour the syrup on them, filling up to the top. - </p> - <p> - <i>To Green Small Lemons or Limes.</i>—Boil them first in a little - hard water, placing them in a porcelain kettle with a thick bed of fresh - vine leaves under them and a thick cover of vine leaves over them. Boil - them till green and tender in two or three waters, putting entirely fresh - vine leaves whenever<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_556" id="Page_556">[556]</a></span> - you change the water, and persisting till they are well greened. Then make - holes in the stem end, and extract the pulp, strings, and seeds, and - proceed as directed in the last receipt. The skins, as soon as empty, - being laid in cold water, and then filled and shaped out with lemon jelly, - and the jars filled up warm with lemon syrup. Or by putting a larger - portion of sugar, and boiling the syrup longer, you may candy it all over - the surface of the fruit. - </p> - <p> - Green limes are preserved in the above manner, filling the skins with - lemon jelly. To candy the syrup use a double portion of sugar, and boil it - till it bubbles and sparkles in the kettle. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PEACHES PRESERVED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the finest ripe free-stone peaches. Pare them, cut them in half, and - remove the stones. To every pound of peaches allow a pound of double - refined loaf sugar, and half the white of an egg (slightly beaten) with - half a pint of very clear soft water. Put the sugar into a porcelain - preserving kettle, mix it with the water and white of egg, and when it has - entirely dissolved, set it over the fire, and boil and skim it till the - scum ceases to rise, which will be very soon, if the sugar is as good as - it should be. There is no economy in using inferior sugar for sweetmeats, - as much of it will be lost in skimming and sediment. In the mean time, - boil in a little sauce-pan a bunch of fresh green peach leaves that have - been cleared from all dust; or a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_557" - id="Page_557">[557]</a></span> handful of broken-up peach kernels. When - the flavor is well extracted, strain this water and mix it with the syrup. - Then put in the halved peaches, and boil them (uncovered) till quite clear - and soft, but not till they break. While warm, put them up with the syrup - in glass or white-ware jars. - </p> - <p> - Apricots are preserved in the same way. - </p> - <p> - <i>Preserved Green Gages.</i>—Get the largest and ripest green - gages, or egg plums. Scald them in boiling water to make them peel easily; - the skins of all sorts of plums becoming very hard and tough when - preserved. Remove the stems; they are no ornament, and render them - troublesome to eat. Make a syrup in the usual way, allowing to each pound - of plums a pound of the finest loaf sugar, half a pint of water, and half - a white of egg. When well skimmed and boiled put in the plums, and boil - them gently till quite clear and soft, but not till broken. All plums may - be done in this manner. If not as ripe as possible, they will require to - each pound of fruit a pound and a half of the best sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BRANDY PEACHES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take large juicy <i>free-stone</i> peaches, not so ripe as to burst or - mash on being handled. Rub off the down from every one with a clean thick - flannel. Prick every peach down to the stone with a large silver fork, and - score them all along the seam or cleft. To <i>each</i> pound of peaches - allow a pound of double-refined loaf sugar, broken-up small, and a half - pint of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_558" id="Page_558">[558]</a></span> - water mixed with half a white of egg, slightly beaten. Put the sugar into - a porcelain kettle, and pour the water upon it. When it is quite melted - give it a stirring, set it over the fire, and boil and skim it till no - more scum rises. Next put in the peaches, and let them cook (uncovered) in - the syrup till they look clear, or for about half an hour, or till a straw - will penetrate them. Then take the kettle off the fire. Having allotted a - pint of the very best white brandy to each pound of peaches, mix it with - the syrup, after taking out the fruit with a wooden spoon, and draining it - over the kettle. Put the peaches into a large tureen. Let the syrup remain - in the kettle a little longer. Mix the brandy with it, and boil them - together ten minutes, or more. Transfer the peaches to large glass jars, - (two thirds full,) and pour the brandy and syrup over them, filling quite - up to the top. When cool, cover them closely, and tie some bladder over - the lids. - </p> - <p> - <i>Green Gages</i>—Are brandied in the same manner. Also, large - egg-plums. Pears also, having first peeled them. To pear sweetmeats always - add lemon rind grated, and lemon juice. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PRESERVED TOMATOS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is an excellent and popular sweetmeat, when flavored well with lemon, - which is indispensable to making it palatable. Also, it should be well - penetrated with sugar, therefore it is best not to attempt preserving - tomatos whole. The best time for doing them<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_559" id="Page_559">[559]</a></span> is in the height of the - lemon season. The most convenient for preserving are those with smooth - even surfaces. If fluted or cleft they are difficult to peel when scalded, - as the skins do not strip off so easily. Having weighed the tomatos, - (which must be full-grown and quite ripe) allow to every two pounds, two - pounds of the best <i>brown</i> sugar, a large spoonful of ground ginger, - and the juice and grated yellow rind of one large ripe lemon, rolled - awhile under your hand. Having scalded and peeled all the tomatos, and - mixed with the sugar a little beaten white of egg, put them into a - porcelain-lined preserving kettle, (uncovered,) and add, gradually, the - sugar. Boil the tomatos and sugar <i>slowly</i> together, till the scum - ceases to appear. Then add, gradually, the lemons, (peel and juice,) and - boil slowly for an hour or more. The tomatos must all have bursted, - otherwise they will not keep, from the sugar not getting sufficiently into - them. When done, take them off the fire, and transfer to glass jars the - tomatos with their syrup. - </p> - <p> - For yellow preserves take yellow tomatos, scald and peel them, and prick - each with a silver fork. Lay them in a porcelain preserving kettle with - plenty of fresh vine leaves under and over them. Boil them with the vine - leaves till they become a finer yellow. Then wash out the kettle and boil - the tomatos, as above, with the <i>white</i> sugar, and add the lemon. - </p> - <p> - <i>Green Tomatos Preserved.</i>—Take green tomatos when they are - full grown, but have not yet begun<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_560" - id="Page_560">[560]</a></span> to turn in the least red. Scald and peel - them, and lay them in a porcelain kettle with plenty of fresh vine leaves - at the bottom. Cover them thickly with another layer of vine leaves at the - top. Boil them very slowly with the vine leaves till they have all turned - yellow. Then take them out, and spread them on large dishes. Wash the - kettle, put in fresh vine leaves under and over the tomatos. They should - become a fine green with the second boiling in vine leaves; otherwise - repeat the greening. Then take them out, wash the kettle again, and return - the tomatos to it with <i>a pound and a half of white sugar</i> to each - pound of tomatos. Boil and skim, till all is clear and nice. Then add the - grated yellow rind and the juice of one large lemon to every pound of - tomatos, and boil slowly an hour longer. All the tomatos should burst, - that the sugar may thoroughly enter the inside. Before you cover the jars, - stir into each an additional quarter or half pound of powdered sugar. - Green tomatos require a high flavoring of lemon, as they have no peculiar - taste of their own. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PRESERVED QUINCES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the largest and ripest yellow quinces; after they have remained on - the trees till the first frost. Wipe them clean, and boil them whole till - they are tender all through, and can be easily penetrated with a splinter - skewer. Save and strain the water in which they were boiled. When cool, - pare and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_561" id="Page_561">[561]</a></span> - core the quinces, and carefully remove the blemishes. To every pound of - fruit allow a pound of the best double-refined loaf sugar. Make a syrup of - the water in which the quinces were boiled, allowing half a pint of this - water to every pound of sugar. When melted, set it in a porcelain kettle - over a moderate fire, and boil and skim it till no more scum appears. Then - put in the fruit, either whole or quartered, or cut into circular slices - about half an inch thick; and boil it uncovered. When the quinces are - quite clear and soft, (but not the least broken) take them out, and spread - them on large flat dishes. Afterwards transfer them to large glass jars, - rather more than half filled; pour the syrup warm over them; and when cool - cover the jars, and tie pieces of bladder over the covers. You may boil, - by themselves, the cores and parings, in as much water as will cover them - well, till they are entirely dissolved. Then strain them through a linen - bag, and while hot stir in as much powdered loaf sugar as will form a - thick jelly. If the quinces have been preserved whole, fill up with this - jelly the holes left by the cores; or if sliced, spread the jelly over the - slices. Quinces soon become very hard and tough, unless they have been - well boiled by themselves, before putting them into the sugar. Merely - scalding or coddling them is not sufficient. If you have not jelly for - filling up the holes, substitute marmalade. To keep quinces well, requires - plenty of rich syrup.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_562" id="Page_562">[562]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PRESERVED CRAB-APPLES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the finest Siberian crab-apples, which being always red, and having a - pleasant acid, are the only sort now used for preserving. Rub each - crab-apple with a dry clean flannel, and then prick every one in several - places with a large needle to prevent their bursting. To every pound of - fruit allow a pound and a half of double-refined loaf sugar, and a pint of - water. First make a syrup of the sugar and water, boiling it in a - porcelain kettle, and skimming it till perfectly clear. Put in the - crab-apples, adding for each pound the juice and grated yellow rind of a - large lemon. The lemon is indispensable to this sweetmeat. Simmer them - slowly in this syrup till tender all through, so that they can be pierced - with a twig of broom-corn; but do not allow them to break. When done, put - them up warm in glass jars more than half full, and the syrup over them. - You may heighten the fine red color with a little prepared cochineal—that - is, cochineal powder kept in a bottle after being boiled with alum and - cream of tartar. - </p> - <p> - <i>Bellflower Apples or Large Pippins</i>—May be preserved whole in - the above manner. They look handsomely on a supper table, covered all over - with a thick meringue or icing flavored with lemon or rose, and spread - smoothly over every apple with a real rose-bud stuck in the top of each. - You may color the icing a beautiful pink, by mixing with it a little - prepared cochineal.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_563" id="Page_563">[563]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PRESERVED CHERRIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - No cherries are worth preserving except morellas, or the large Virginia - red, or carnation cherries. Stem and stone them carefully, saving the - juice; and strew them thickly with powdered white sugar. To a quart of - cherries allow a pound of the best loaf sugar. Make a syrup, allowing half - a pint of water to a pound of sugar. Boil and skim it, and when the scum - has ceased to rise put in the cherries and their juice, and give them a - slow boil up. Put them up warm in glass or white-ware jars, and tie - bladder over the lids. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FINE PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready two sorts of strawberries, one half being of the largest and - finest scarlet sort, (not too ripe,) the other smaller and less expensive, - but quite ripe and perfectly fresh and nice. Put the smaller ones into a - porcelain kettle, having allowed three quarters of a pound of - double-refined loaf sugar to every quart of fruit. Boil the sugar and - small strawberries together; skimming well, and stirring down to the - bottom after every skimming, and mashing it to a jam. When done, set it to - cool in a large pan; wash the kettle clean, or take another one, and make - in it a clear syrup, allowing to each pound of the best loaf sugar a <i>small</i> - half pint of water. When melted set it over the fire, and boil and skim - till the scum ceases to rise. Put the large strawberries in this, and give - them one boil up. If boiled too long they will<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_564" id="Page_564">[564]</a></span> break. As soon as they have - come to a boil take them (one at a time,) with a silver tea-spoon, and lay - them separately on large flat dishes. Then mix the syrup with the jam - thoroughly together, and boil it a quarter of an hour. Put the large - strawberries, one at a time, into glass jars, (more than half full,) and - fill up to the top with the hot jam. When cool lay a round of brandy paper - on the surface, and secure the lids by tying pieces of bladder over them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STRAWBERRIES IN WINE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Put a small quart of fine large scarlet strawberries into a glass jar, - having sprinkled among them a quarter of a pound of the best loaf sugar. - Fill up the jar with madeira or sherry. They are served at parties in - small glass saucers, heaped on the top with whipped cream, or with white - ice cream. What is sold by many confectioners as strawberry ice cream, has - in reality no strawberries about it; as may be known by its beautiful rose - color, such as strawberry juice never produces, particularly after being - preserved with sugar. This fine delicate pink tinge comes in reality from - alkanet. Most of what is called strawberry cordial, is in reality alcohol - colored with that elegant dye. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STRAWBERRY WINE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Fill four glass jars holding each a quart, with fine ripe strawberries - that have been hulled or picked clean. Cover<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_565" id="Page_565">[565]</a></span> them; set them in a large - kettle of cold water, and place it in a moderate heat till it gradually - comes to a boil. Then let it boil but five minutes. Cork the jars, and - seal them closely before you take them out of the water. Use the cement of - two-thirds resin and one-third beeswax. Keep the jar for four weeks in a - dry cool place. By that time you will find the strawberries with a thick - white scum at the top, and a clear juice at the bottom. Pour it into clean - bottles, through a funnel with a fine straining cloth. Cork the bottles, - but do not drive the corks hard down, lest the bottles should burst if too - tight. Arrange the bottles on the kitchen mantleshelf, where they may have - some heat from the fire. You will see when a vinous fermentation takes - place. It may continue a week. When it has entirely subsided, and is very - clear, strain off the liquid from the sediment into fresh bottles, and - cork them tightly. When you put them away, lay the bottles on their sides. - This is a delicious cordial, and requires no brandy in it. - </p> - <p> - <i>Preserved Gooseberries.</i>—Top and tail the gooseberries, which - should be of two sorts, and as ripe as you can get. The best kind quite - ripe, large, and of a light amber color. Wash the others, and boil them in - a porcelain kettle with barely water enough to keep them from burning. - When they are soft and broken, mash the pulp through a sieve, or squeeze - it through a linen bag. Measure it, and to each pint allow a large pound - of powdered loaf sugar. Boil the sugar with the<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_566" id="Page_566">[566]</a></span> pulp, skimming and stirring - it till it begins to jelly. Then put in the large gooseberries, and give - them one boil up. When done take them out separately, and spread them on a - large flat dish. Continue to boil the syrup a while longer, till you find - it congeals well on holding out a spoonful in the open air. Then put the - large gooseberries into jars, and pour the syrup over them while still hot - and liquid. Put them up warm. - </p> - <p> - <i>Raspberries</i>—May be preserved as above, reserving the finest - for putting whole into the jelly. The large white raspberries make a fine - sweetmeat, done whole in jelly or jam of white currants. - </p> - <p> - Black currants should always be made into jelly or jam. They require less - sugar than other sweetmeats, (a quarter of a pound less) their juice being - naturally very thick. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COUNTRY PLUMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Gather your plums when perfectly ripe, and ready to fall from the trees. - Split them with a knife, and remove the stones. Spread them out on large - dishes, so as not to touch, and set them in the hot sun on a sunny roof or - balcony; taking them in every evening before dark, and not putting them - out till after the dew is off in the morning. Repeat this for three or - four days. Then pack them down in stone jars with a large quantity of the - best brown sugar, a layer of plums and a layer of sugar alternately, - (sugar being at the bottom and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_567" - id="Page_567">[567]</a></span> top) and cover the jars closely. Let them - remain undisturbed till February or March. When opened, you will have - plenty of rich syrup among them. They make good spring pies, and will be - prized for family use at that season. - </p> - <p> - <i>Country Grapes.</i>—The little wild grapes have a very pleasant - taste after the first frost in the autumn, and should not be gathered till - that time. Until frosted, they are too sour to eat. To keep them all - winter, strip them from the stems and put them in stone jars with layers - of good brown sugar, till the jars are three parts full. Then fill up to - the top with West India molasses. They will make good winter pies, when - cranberries, dried peaches, and dried apples are scarce. - </p> - <p> - <i>Persimmon Jam.</i>—Do not gather persimmons till late in the - fall, when they are well sweetened with the frost. They are unfit to eat - till all the leaves are off the trees, and till they are ripe enough to - mash. Then pack them in jars with plenty of brown sugar. Maple sugar will - do. In the back-woods they will be valued. When cooked they will be - improved by the addition of a little <i>sweet</i> cider.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_568" id="Page_568">[568]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="PICKLES" id="PICKLES"></a>PICKLES. - </h2> - <p> - For pickles the articles should all be fine and freshly gathered. They are - generally too hard to be cut or eaten conveniently, and there is too much - unnecessary fear of pickles proving soft. It is not now customary to keep - them for weeks in salt and water; two or three days will be sufficient for - this part of the process, and some kinds do not require it at all. The - arts of both preserving and pickling are of late years much simplified. - All pickles have nearly the same taste, and there is no use (and much - trouble) in multiplying varieties, when a few sorts of the very best will - be found amply sufficient for any table. One important point to be always - observed, is to use none but the most wholesome vinegar, (the genuine - cider,) as all that is made of drugs is unwholesome to the eater and - destructive to the pickles. On no consideration boil them in brass, - copper, or bell-metal—things which fortunately are now nearly - exploded from all kitchens; iron lined with Delft, (called porcelain,) - being universally substituted. - </p> - <p> - To green pickles boil them with a thick bed of fresh vine leaves, both - under and over them. This will first render them yellow; then boil them - again in a clean kettle with fresh vine leaves. If not green enough when - you think they are done, repeat the boiling again, with fresh vine<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_569" id="Page_569">[569]</a></span> leaves - and fresh water. Avoid eating pickles that are of a fine verdigris green. - They are greened with copper, and are poisonous. - </p> - <p> - If you cannot obtain vine leaves, you may green pickles by boiling them - with fresh cabbage leaves under and over. The first boiling will turn them - yellow, the second with new leaves should render them green. But vine - leaves are better and more certain. Put them up warm in stone or, glass - jars with broad flat corks; and tie kid leather over them. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - INDIA PICKLE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For this pickle you may use a variety of <i>young</i> fruits and - vegetables. For instance, red cherries, grapes, plums, apricots, young - peaches, or lemons, limes, button-tomatos, cauliflowers sliced, white - cabbage sliced, hard-boiled eggs sliced, little onions, nasturtions, small - cucumbers, &c. Having nicely prepared these things, put them all - together into a large porcelain kettle, and scald them in a strong brine - made in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of fine salt to a quart of - boiling water. Pour it hot over the pickles, and let them remain in it - till next day. Then take them out, and drain off all the brine through a - sieve. Spread them out (so as not to touch,) on large flat dishes or old - japan servers, and set them in the hot sun for three or four days; - carefully taking them in at evening, and if the weather becomes damp or - cloudy. Afterwards put them into a cullender or sieve,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_570" id="Page_570">[570]</a></span> wash them well through cold - water, and then wipe them all dry with a coarse cloth. Put them into a - large pan. Mix together a quarter pound of grated horse-radish, sliced; - two cloves of garlic; half a hundred small white onions; two ounces of - mace; a quarter of a pound of ground ginger; two nutmegs, powdered; two - pounds of powdered loaf sugar; half a bottle of the best ground mustard; - half a pound of yellow mustard seed, and an ounce of turmeric powder, - which must on no account be omitted, as a yellow tinge is indispensable to - this pickle. Mix all the seasoning with sufficient excellent cider vinegar - to render it liquid, and pour it over the pickles in the pan, and then - stir them up from the bottom. Let the whole rest till cold. Then transfer - it to stone jars. Have ready some more vinegar, pour it boiling hot on the - pickles, &c., but do not fill up to the top, as they expand and rise. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED PEACHES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take eight fine large free-stone peaches, (white or yellow,) when nearly - but not quite ripe. Wipe off the down with a clean flannel, and put them - into a brine strong enough to bear up an egg. In two days take them out, - and drain them for several hours on an inverted sieve. Tie in a piece of - thin muslin one ounce of whole white pepper; one of broken-up ginger; - eight blades of mace, and two ounces of mustard seed. Boil this seasoning - for ten minutes in a quart of the best cider vinegar. Lay the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_571" id="Page_571">[571]</a></span> peaches - in a broad-mouthed stone jar, with the bag of spice at the bottom, and - pour the vinegar boiling hot upon them. At the top add a table-spoonful of - salad oil. Put them up warm, and secure them with broad flat corks, and - rounds of leather tied on carefully. - </p> - <p> - <i>Peach Mangoes.</i>—The above sort of peaches are best for - mangoes. Steep them in brine for two days. Cut a small piece out of each, - and carefully loose the stones from the inside with a small sharp knife. - It will then be easy to thrust them out of free-stone peaches, and none - others should be used, either for pickling or preserving. Make a filling - for the places that were occupied by the stones. For this purpose, use - fresh mustard seed moistened with vinegar; scraped horse-radish, powdered - ginger, a clove of garlic, or a minced shalot or very small onion, and a - very little chilli or red pepper minced very small. Also a little powdered - mace, and a little chopped peach. With this mixture stuff the peaches - hard. Replace the bits that were cut off, and tie them on firmly with fine - packthread, crossing the peach. Boil a quart of the best vinegar, seasoned - with white spices and mustard seed, tied up in muslin; and when it has - boiled ten minutes, pour it hot over the peach mangoes in a stone jar. Add - at the top a table-spoonful of salad oil; cork the jar immediately, and - tie leather over it. Where there is no dislike to cloves, you may stick - half a dozen into the outside of each peach; but we think a<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_572" id="Page_572">[572]</a></span> few - small bits of mace will be preferable, as the clove taste will overpower - every thing else. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MELON MANGOES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the small green melons, used only for this purpose, and let them lie - in a strong brine for two days. Take them out and drain them well. Cut a - small square bit out of one side, and through this hole extract all the - seeds and filaments. Have ready a stuffing made of grated horse-radish, - white mustard seed, minced shalot, or a clove of garlic chopped fine; a - very little chilli or red pepper, and a little powdered mace. Wet this - stuffing well with vinegar, and then fill with it the cavity of the mango. - Replace the bit that was cut out, and tie it in with packthread, crossing - all over the melon. Then place the mangoes in a stone jar. Have ready a - sufficiency of the best vinegar, (a large quart or more, for eight or ten - mangoes,) boiled ten minutes, with a seasoning of mustard seed, ginger, - mace, grated horse-radish, and chopped shalot or little onion, or a clove - of garlic minced very small—all tied in a bit of muslin. Pour the - vinegar boiling hot over the mangoes, having placed among them the bag of - seasoning. Finish with sweet oil at the top of the jar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUSHROOMS PICKLED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - For pickling, the small button mushrooms are best. After cutting off the - stalk closely, and with a sharp penknife<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_573" id="Page_573">[573]</a></span> peeling off carefully their - thin outside skin, measure two quarts, taking care that they are all of - the right sort, and freshly gathered; the outside of a dull whitish color, - and the underside of a fine pinkish salmon tinge. If very white above and - below, or if bright yellow, they are poisonous. <i>Good</i> mushrooms grow - always in open fields or airy places; never in woods or marshes. To pickle - two quarts, prepare eight little bags of very clear muslin; and tie up in - each bag six blades of mace, six slices of root ginger, and half a nutmeg - broken up. Have ready four glass jars, such as are considered to hold a - quart. Lay a bag of spice in the bottom of each. Having sprinkled the - mushrooms well with salt, let them rest till next day. Then divide the - mushrooms and their liquor into four pints. Put one pint into each jar, - with a bag of spice at the bottom, and another at the top. Pour on boiling - cider vinegar of the best quality, and finish with a table-spoonful of - salad oil. Cork the jars immediately, and tie leather carefully over the - top. All mushrooms turn brown on the under-side the day after they are - gathered, and sometimes sooner. - </p> - <p> - Boiling the spice in the vinegar will weaken the mushroom flavor. When you - open a jar of pickled mushrooms, immediately cork it again; tie on the - leather cover, and use it up as soon as possible. Therefore, pint jars, - with half a pint of mushrooms in each, are convenient.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_574" id="Page_574">[574]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BELL-PEPPERS PICKLED.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine full-grown bell-peppers. Make a brine in a stone jar of salt and - water, strong enough to float an egg, and let the peppers remain in it two - days, putting a weight on the cover to keep it down. Then take them out, - wash them well in cold water, drain them, and wipe them dry. Cut a slit in - the side of each, and extract all the seeds, as if left in, they will be - entirely too hot. Through these slits let all the water run out. Put them - into a clean stone jar. Boil sufficient of the best cider vinegar, - interspersed with the muslin bags of broken-up cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. - Pour it, boiling hot, on the peppers in the jar. Distribute the bags of - spice among the peppers, and cork the jar warm. You may stuff the peppers - in the manner of mangoes, with pickled red cabbage finely shred, minced - onions and minced cucumbers pickled, and seasoned with a little mustard - seed, ginger, and mace. Tie up the slit with packthread, crossing all - round. Fill up the jars with vinegar, putting sweet oil on the top. - </p> - <p> - Your may green bell-peppers in the usual way, with vine leaves or cabbage - leaves. - </p> - <p> - All pickles should be kept in a dry place. If you find them mouldy they - are not always spoiled. Take them out of the jar, wipe off all the mould - carefully, and throw away the vinegar. Wash the jar very clean, scald it, - and set it in the sun to purify still more. Make a new pickle with fresh - seasoning, and put them into that.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_575" - id="Page_575">[575]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED CAULIFLOWERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take large, ripe, full-blown cauliflowers. Remove the leaves and stalk, - and divide the blossom into pieces or clusters of equal size. Throw them - into a porcelain kettle of boiling water, (adding a little salt,) let them - simmer, and skim them well. When they come to a boil, take them up with a - perforated skimmer, and lay them on a sieve to drain. Put them into stone - jars, (three parts full.) Season with mace and nutmeg infused in - sufficient of the best cider vinegar, and simmer it for a quarter of an - hour. When it comes to a boil take it off the fire, and pour it hot over - the cauliflower in the jar, filling quite up to the top, and adding sweet - oil at the last. Cover it while warm, and tie leather over the top. If you - wish to have the cauliflowers yellow, boil with the vinegar some turmeric - powder tied up in thin muslin. This is a very nice pickle. - </p> - <p> - Broccoli is done in the same manner, but should be previously greened by - boiling it with vine leaves. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED BEETS WITH CABBAGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large fine <i>red</i> cabbage, wash it well, and drain it. Quarter - it, (having removed the stalk) and slice it with a cabbage-cutter as for - coldslaw. Boil some beets in the usual way till quite tender, (they - require a very long time) and while warm peel and slice them in round - pieces, or split them down, and cut them into long bits. Lay them in a - large stone jar, alternately with layers<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_576" id="Page_576">[576]</a></span> of the shred cabbage, till - the jar is more than half full. Have ready some scalding vinegar that has - been boiled with a seasoning of blades of mace and sliced ginger root, and - some nutmeg. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, upon the cabbage and beet, - till you have the jars quite full. Finish with a large table-spoonful of - sweet oil. Cover the jar with leather, and put it away warm. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED CUCUMBERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take small young cucumbers, freshly gathered, and free from blemishes. - Make a brine strong enough to float an egg, and let the cucumbers lie in - it till they become yellow, stirring them down to the bottom twice a day. - Then pour off all the brine, wash the cucumbers in cold water, and drain - them. Lay a thick bed of fresh green vine leaves in the bottom and sides - of a porcelain kettle. Put in the cucumbers, and pour on sufficient cold - water to wet them all plentifully. Then cover them, closely, with more - vine leaves, and pour on more water, packing the leaves well and pressing - them down. Fill up to the top with water and vine leaves, and cover the - kettle closely to keep in the steam. Hang it over a slow fire where there - is no blaze, and keep it <i>warm</i> all night, but not <i>hot</i>. In the - morning if the pickles are not a fine deep green, remove the vine leaves - and replace them with a fresh supply. After this, they will be generally - green enough; but if not, continue till they are. Then drain the cucumbers - on a sieve, and trans<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_577" id="Page_577">[577]</a></span>fer - them to a very clean stone jar. To fifty cucumbers allow four quarts of - excellent vinegar, and a bit of alum about the size of a large grain of - corn, with half an ounce of mustard seed, half an ounce of mace, a - broken-up nutmeg, and half an ounce of root ginger, sliced. Tie up the - spice in three muslin bags, and boil them ten minutes in the vinegar. Then - take out and lay them among the cucumbers in the jar; one to the bottom, - one in the middle, and one at the top. Pour over them the vinegar boiling - hot; add a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and cork the jar immediately, - tying a leather over it. Keep wooden pickle spoons in the pantry for - taking out pickles, and always be careful to close the jar immediately - after. - </p> - <p> - You need not keep the bags of spice in the jars more than two or three - weeks. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED ONIONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the small silver-skinned white onions. Peel off the outer skin. Make - a brine strong enough to float an egg, skim it well, and when it begins to - cool pour it upon the onions. Let them stand in it (closely covered,) till - quite cold. Then take them out, peel off another skin, and wash them - through a cullender in cold water. Next, boil them in milk till tender all - through, so that you can easily pierce them with a needle. Then drain off - the milk. Measure them, and to a quart of onions allow a quart of the best - cider vinegar. Boil in the vinegar two muslin bags tied up with broken-up<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_578" id="Page_578">[578]</a></span> nutmeg - and mace. When it has boiled, pour it hot over the onions in the jar; - having laid one bag of spice at the bottom, and one in the middle. The - onions should fill two thirds of the jar, and the vinegar the remainder. - Finish with a table-spoonful of salad oil, and cork the jar immediately, - and tie on the leather cover. - </p> - <p> - As onions pickled this way are generally much liked, it is well, when - doing them, to make several jars full. - </p> - <p> - <i>Cucumber and Onion Pickle.</i>—To a dozen fine cucumbers allow - three large onions. Pare the cucumbers and peel the onions, and cut both - into thick slices. Sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and let them rest - till next day. Then drain them well, and put them into a stone jar. Pour - boiling vinegar over them. Close the jar, and set it in a warm place. Next - day repeat the boiling vinegar, and cork the jar. Next day repeat it - again, with a bag of mace, nutmeg, and ginger, boiled in the vinegar. Then - cork the jar, and tie it up. When the pickle is finished, divide it in - small stone jars, with sweet oil on the top of each. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WALNUTS OR BUTTERNUTS PICKLED— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Gather them in early summer, when they are full-grown, but so tender that - a large needle will easily pierce them all through. Rub off the outer skin - with a coarse cloth, and then lay them in salt and water for a week, - changing the brine every other day. Allow for this brine a small<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_579" id="Page_579">[579]</a></span> quarter - of a pound of salt to a large quart of water. Make enough to cover all the - nuts well. Place a large lid over the pan, and keep them closely from the - air. The last day take them out of the brine, drain them, and prick every - one quite through in several places with a large needle. Drain them again, - spread them out on large flat dishes, and set them to blacken for two days - in the hot sun. For a hundred nuts, allow a gallon of excellent cider - vinegar, half an ounce of black pepper-corns, half an ounce of cloves, - half an ounce of allspice, an ounce of root ginger, and an ounce of mace. - Boil the spice in the vinegar for ten minutes, tied up in eight small - muslin bags. Then take them out, and having divided the nuts in four stone - jars, distribute among them, equally, the bags of spice, and pour on the - vinegar hot, an equal portion in each jar. While warm, secure them with - flat corks, and tie leather over them. Done this way, you may begin to use - them in a week. If you have not enough of vinegar to fill the jars up to - the top, add some cold, and strew among the nuts some blades of mace. - Finish with a large spoonful of salad oil at the top of each jar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PICKLED PLUMS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take large fine plums; perfect, and quite ripe. To every quart of plums - allow half a pound of the best white sugar powdered, and a large pint of - the best cider vinegar. Melt the sugar in the vinegar, and put it with the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_580" id="Page_580">[580]</a></span> fruit - into a porcelain kettle; all the plums having been previously pricked to - the stone with a large needle. Lay among them some small muslin bags - filled with broken nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon; and if you choose, a few - cloves. Give them one boil up, skimming them well. Put them warm into - stone jars, with the bags interspersed, and cork them immediately. Green - gages may be done in this manner, first rendering them greener by boiling - with vine leaves in the usual way. - </p> - <p> - <i>Damsons Pickled.</i>—Do these in the same manner as plums; but as - they are much more acid, allow brown sugar of the best kind. Plums or - damsons may be pickled plain, and with little trouble if full ripe, - pricked with a needle, and packed down in a stone jar with profuse layers - of brown sugar between the layers of fruit; the jars filled up with cold - cider vinegar, and putting sweet oil at the top. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <p> - <i>Pickled Cherries.</i>—Take the largest and finest red cherries, - fully ripe. Morellas are the best. Either remove the stems entirely, or - cut them short, within two inches of the fruit. Have ready a large glass - jar. Fill it two thirds with fresh newly-gathered cherries, and then fill - up to the top with the best vinegar. Keep it well covered, and if both - fruit and vinegar are of excellent quality, no boiling is necessary, and - no spice, as the cherry flavor will be retained, and they will not - shrivel.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_581" id="Page_581">[581]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - <i>Button Tomatos.</i>—The small round tomatos, either red or - yellow, will keep perfectly, if put whole into cold vinegar of the <i>really</i> - best quality. You may add a bag of spice if you choose. - </p> - <p> - <i>Nasturtion Seeds.</i>—Keep a large glass jar of cold cider - vinegar, and put in the green seeds of nasturtions after the flowers are - off, and the seeds full-grown, but not hard. Remove the stalks. In this - simple way nasturtions will keep perfectly well, and are an excellent - substitute for capers with boiled mutton. They can be raised profusely, - even in a city garden, and the blossoms are very beautiful. With - pepper-grass and nasturtion flowers from your own garden, you can have a - nice salad for a summer evening tea-table. - </p> - <p> - The three pickles above (cherries, button tomatos, and nasturtion seeds,) - are cheap, easy, and palatable. Try them. To flavor them with spice, boil - the vinegar with a bag of spice in it, and pour it on hot, leaving the bag - among them in the jar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="PREPARATIONS_FOR_THE_SICK" id="PREPARATIONS_FOR_THE_SICK"></a>PREPARATIONS - FOR THE SICK. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHICKEN BROTH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Skin and cut up a fine full-grown fowl. If but little is wanted, take only - the dark meat for the broth, and put it into a pot with a small quart of - water, and slowly boil it to rags. Strain the liquid and return it to the<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_582" id="Page_582">[582]</a></span> pot, and - thicken it with two spoonfuls of arrow root, if no vegetables are - permitted. Otherwise, you may boil with the chicken some sliced onion and - sliced turnip, with a grated parsnip and a sliced potato, straining out - the vegetables with the shreds of fowl. You may reserve the white meat of - the breast and wings to make another dish, if the patient is permitted to - take it. This is the white meat cut off the bones, and stewed slowly in - fresh oyster liquid, with a bit of nice butter. If the patient is well - enough, stir in a beaten egg just before the stew is taken from the fire. - </p> - <p> - <i>Oyster Soup for Invalids.</i>—Remove the gristle from a dozen - fine large fresh oysters. Take half their liquor and mix it with an equal - portion of very good milk, seasoning it with three or four blades of mace, - and a stalk of celery scraped and cut into pieces. When it has boiled and - been skimmed well, strain it over the oysters, and let all simmer together - till the oysters are plumped, but do not let them come to a boil. Serve it - up in a bowl, with some milk biscuit to eat with it. - </p> - <p> - <i>Clam Soup for Invalids.</i>—Where salt is permitted, cut up and - boil slowly in their own liquor a dozen or more small sand clams. When - well boiled and skimmed, strain the liquor into a clean sauce-pan, and - thicken it with bread crumbs, and a small bit of nice fresh butter. The - clams are of no further use. Throw them away.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_583" id="Page_583">[583]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MUTTON BROTH FOR THE SICK.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two pounds from a nice neck of mutton, and leave out some of the fat - if there seems too much. Cut the meat from the bones, and put it into a - pot with a large quart of water, and no seasoning. Boil it till the meat - is all in rags. Do not skim it, as the fat on the surface is very healing, - if without salt or pepper. When done, strain it into a bowl. Let the - patient eat with it a slice of very light wheat bread, having the crust - cut off. It is excellent for the dysentery. When the patient is - convalescent, a little seasoning may be allowed, and some well-boiled - mashed turnips stirred into the bowl of soup with a boiled onion sliced, - and a thickening of arrow-root or farina, stirred in about half an hour - before the soup is taken up. Pour it off clear from the shreds of meat at - the bottom. - </p> - <p> - <i>Veal Broth for Invalids.</i>—Take a pound of knuckle of veal cut - in pieces, four calf's feet, split up. Boil them in a large quart of - water, till they are all reduced to rags. Then strain the liquid, and add - to it the soft part, only, of half a dozen fine oysters, and three or four - blades of mace. Set it again on the fire, and as soon as it simmers well, - take it off, and serve it up with very light milk biscuit, or little bread - rolls, to eat with it. Veal broth may be made with a piece of knuckle of - veal cut small, and boiled in the liquor of clams instead of water. The - clams themselves must be omitted, as they are always tough and - indigestible for an invalid, but their liquor adds a pleasant<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_584" id="Page_584">[584]</a></span> relish - to the insipidity of the veal. As the strength of the patient improves, a - grated carrot, a sliced onion, and some sliced turnip, may be added to the - veal from the beginning. - </p> - <p> - <i>Raw Oysters for the Sick.</i>—Take large fine fresh oysters, and - carefully cut out the hard part or gristle. They are considered very good - for convalescents, being, when raw, cooling, refreshing, and nutritious. - Drain them well from the liquor, making them as dry as you can; and if - permitted, accompany the oysters with black pepper and vinegar, and a - plate of bread and butter. - </p> - <p> - <i>Birds.</i>—Convalescents, not yet allowed to eat meat, can - generally relish birds nicely broiled, or stewed in their own gravy, with - any appropriate seasoning, and a little <i>fresh</i> butter, if they are - not very fat. When dished, lay under each a piece of nice toast, dipped - for a minute in hot water. - </p> - <p> - <i>Beefsteak for Invalids.</i>—When this can be eaten with an - appetite, there is no greater promoter of returning health; but it must be - of the best sirloin steak, very tender, well broiled, and thoroughly done - on both sides, the gravy being carefully saved to serve up with it, a - little fresh butter being added after the meat comes off the gridiron. If - the taste of onion is desired, merely rub the plate with a peeled onion. A - very tender lamb-chop well broiled may be eaten by way of change; but a - tenderloin steak is better. Avoid pork, or veal cutlets. - </p> - <p> - <i>Gravy Sippets.</i>—For invalids who cannot yet eat meat, a light - and relishing preparation may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_585" - id="Page_585">[585]</a></span> made with one or two slices of the best - wheat bread, divested of the crust, and spread on a hot plate, while some - nice well-skimmed gravy is poured over them; the gravy of roast beef, - veal, or mutton, that has had no butter about it. Gravy sippets will form - a variety to the usual broths, and other beginnings for the resumption of - animal food. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - HERB TEAS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have one or more china or white-ware pots for the purpose of making herb - teas; and see that, after using, they are well washed, well scalded and - dried, and set open in the sun till wanted again. The herbs, whether green - or dried, should be of excellent quality, and picked very clean from dust - and stems. Having well-scalded the pot, take the allotted quantity of the - herb and put it in; then pour on the water, which must be actually boiling - at the time, and press the herbs down at the bottom with a silver spoon. - Then put on the lid closely, and immediately stop up the spout with a - small cork, or a wad of soft white paper rolled tightly. This is to keep - in the steam, and prevent the strength of the herb from escaping. When - sufficiently boiled, pour into a pitcher with a lid, and through a - strainer, as much of the tea as is wanted. Strainers of block tin, with a - handle and <i>very fine</i> close holes, are excellent for this and other - purposes. - </p> - <p> - <i>Herb Candies.</i>—Hoarhound candy, and many others, may be made - of a strong decoction or tea of the herb, thickened with loaf sugar, and - boiled,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_586" id="Page_586">[586]</a></span> - skimmed, and stirred till very thick and stiff. Then pour it smoothly into - a square tin pan and set it in a cool place to congeal. While still soft, - mark it in even squares with a knife. When quite cold and hard, loosen it - from the pan with a knife, and take it out. It is good for coughs. - </p> - <p> - Peppermint candy is made in the same way, and is used for flatulence. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GRUEL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Gruels, for patients who are unable to take any thing more substantial, - may be made of ground rice flour, arrow root, indian meal, oatmeal grits, - or farina. Mix to a paste, with water, two large table-spoonfuls of any of - the above articles; then stir the paste, gradually, into a pint of water - boiling on the fire, making it very smooth and pressing out all the lumps. - To prevent it boiling over, when it has risen nearly to the top of the - pan, remove it from the fire. Sweeten it while hot, and, if permitted, add - a little white wine with nutmeg, and a small bit of fresh butter. - </p> - <p> - <i>Toast and Water.</i>—Cut a large slice or two of the best wheat - bread; pare off all the crust; and with a long-handled toasting fork toast - it evenly on both sides, not allowing it to blacken or burn in any part. - While hot from the fire, plunge the toast immediately into a quart pitcher - of clear cold water. Cover the pitcher instantly, and let it infuse for - half an hour or more, without leaving off the cover. When done, it should - be of a very pale brown color.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_587" - id="Page_587">[587]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - JELLY WATER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stir a table-spoonful of currant jelly into a half pint tumbler of ice - water, if the patient is feverish. The jelly may be of other fruit, and if - not sweet enough add some loaf sugar. The juice of any ripe fruit, made - sweet and mixed with cold water, is a good substitute when sweetmeats are - not at hand. Warm drinks are now seldom used, but to promote perspiration - and carry off a cold. Tamarinds are in themselves very cooling and - pleasant, and make an agreeable drink infused in water, either warm or - cold. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CARRAGEEN BLANCMANGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Carrageen is a species of sea moss which becomes glutinous when boiled, - and is considered remarkably nutritious and strengthening. It can also be - rendered very palatable. It is found abundantly on some parts of our - sea-coast, and may be obtained of the best druggists, very nicely cleaned - and pressed. To a small loose handful of carrageen allow a small quart of - rich unskimmed milk, half a pound of powdered white sugar, a stick of the - best cinnamon broken-up, six or seven blades of mace, and half a nutmeg, - powdered. Having washed the carrageen through two or three cold waters, - and shaken it out to remove the drops that hang about it, put it to a pint - and a half of the cold milk. Boil it half an hour in a covered porcelain - kettle. Then take it out, for if it boils too long the carrageen will - taste too strongly. In another vessel boil the remaining half pint of milk - with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_588" id="Page_588">[588]</a></span> - the spices, till very highly flavored. Then strain it into the carrageen - milk, and stir in, gradually, the half pound of powdered loaf sugar. Set - the porcelain kettle again over the fire, and let it boil fast for five - minutes longer. Then strain it into moulds or bowls previously wet with - cold water; and when it has well congealed, turn it out, and serve it up - with sweetened cream, flavored with rose-water or peach-water. If for an - invalid, who is not allowed spices, flavor it with rose-water only, - stirred in after the blancmange has been taken from the fire. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FARINA BLANCMANGE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - From a quart of rich milk take out half a pint. Put the half pint into a - small sauce-pan, and add (if permitted) sufficient mace, nutmeg, and - cinnamon to flavor it well; the spices being tied up in a very thin muslin - bag. Then add the flavored milk to the remainder, having stirred in two - heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Set it over the fire in a - porcelain kettle, and when it has come to a boil sprinkle in, gradually, - four large heaping table-spoonfuls of farina, stirring it well. Keep it - boiling a quarter of an hour after all the farina is in. When done, strain - it into blancmange moulds, and set it on ice to congeal. If for an invalid - not allowed spice, boil it plain, and when taken from the fire stir in a - wine-glass of rose-water. If rose-water is boiled with it from the - beginning, the strength and flavor will evaporate.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_589" id="Page_589">[589]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - <i>Farina Flummery.</i>—Mix with a small pint of water a large pint - of the juice of ripe currants, or strawberries, or of stewed cranberries - in winter, made very sweet with white sugar. Boil the water and juice - together, and stir in gradually a quarter pound of farina, and then boil - it fifteen minutes longer. Afterwards transfer it to moulds, and set it on - ice till congealed. - </p> - <p> - <i>Farina Gruel.</i>—Have some water boiling on the fire, and when - it boils fast, sprinkle in sufficient farina to make it moderately thick. - Then sweeten it with white sugar. If permitted, stir in some white wine, - and nutmeg grated. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BEEF TEA.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pound of fine fresh beefsteak cut from the round, without any fat. - Chop it into small bits, and season it with a level salt-spoon of salt. - Put it into a wide-mouthed bottle, cork it closely, and set it into a - kettle of cold water, which must reach to the neck of the bottle. Let it - boil steadily for three hours, by which time the essence will be all - extracted from the beef. Then remove the cork, and strain the liquid into - a bowl, and skim it. It can be made still more conveniently in a <i>bain-marie</i> - or double kettle; an article useful for many purposes, particular in - cookery for an invalid. Mutton or veal tea are made in the same manner. - Also chicken tea, or essence of any sort of poultry or game. - </p> - <p> - <i>Chicken Panada.</i>—Having skinned and cut up a fine full-grown - chicken, take the white meat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_590" - id="Page_590">[590]</a></span> from the breast and wings, and mince it - small for panada. The dark meat will do for chicken tea. Add to the panada - a slice of wheat bread crumbled and mixed in, and boil it in a <i>bain-marie</i> - with the water outside; seasoning it (if permitted) with powdered mace or - nutmeg. - </p> - <p> - <i>Sweet Panada.</i>—Mix with a pint of water a glass of madeira or - sherry; a heaped table-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, half the yellow - rind of a lemon grated, and half the juice; and a half tea-spoonful of - powdered nutmeg or mace. Set the mixture over the fire, and as soon as it - boils add crumbled milk biscuit, or a rusk. Then give it another boil up. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BARLEY WATER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having washed clean two ounces of pearl barley, put it into a sauce-pan - with a quart of water, the grated rind and the juice of a lemon, and two - ounces of seeded raisins. Boil it slowly till the liquid is reduced one - half. Then strain it, and sweeten it, while warm, with loaf sugar. - </p> - <p> - <i>Gum Arabic Water.</i>—Take an ounce of the best and cleanest gum - arabic. Put it into a pitcher, and pour on a pint of boiling water, and - stir while dissolving. When cool, squeeze in (if permitted) the juice of a - lemon, and add loaf sugar enough to make it pleasantly sweet. Gum arabic - water, alone, is sometimes given to a patient, whom it is expedient to - keep very low as a preventive to inflammation.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_591" id="Page_591">[591]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - <i>Tamarind Water.</i>—This is a pleasant and cooling drink in - fevers, allowing half a pint of cold water to as many tamarinds as you can - take up with a table-spoon. Cover it, and let it stand for a few minutes. - </p> - <p> - <i>Apple Water.</i>—Take four fine large juicy apples, (pippins or - bellflowers,) core and pare them, and bake them side by side in a tin pan. - When well done and quite soft all through, put them into a pitcher and - fill up with warm water. Simmer them over the fire, and when quite soft - mash them; and, if necessary, add more water till they become a thick - liquid that can be drank. Sweeten well with loaf sugar, and if permitted, - add some lemon juice or rose-water. Drink it cool. - </p> - <p> - <i>Egg Wine.</i>—Break a nice fresh egg into a tumbler, and beat it - till smooth and thick. Add a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, - and stir in a glass of the best port wine. This, when permitted, is very - strengthening and cheering for an invalid, to take about the hour of noon - or earlier. When wine is not allowed, you may beat the egg into a glass of - new unskimmed milk. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WHEY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Milk can be converted into a curd by the infusion of rennet water, white - wine, lemon juice, tamarind juice, or vinegar, stirred into good milk, - covered and set in a warm place till the curd has formed, and has - separated from the whey which remains beneath it. Take off the curd - carefully, breaking it as little as possible,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_592" id="Page_592">[592]</a></span> and put it into a deep - dish. Pour the whey into a pitcher. It should look clear, and greenish - rather than white, and have none of the milk curd remaining about it. Set - the pitcher on ice. It is an excellent drink in fevers. When approved, the - curd may be eaten in a saucer with sugar. For rennet whey, cut a piece of - dried rennet about two inches square, and wipe all the salt from the - outside, but do not wash it. Soak the bit of rennet for several hours (or - all night) in a small tea-cup of lukewarm water. Then pour the rennet - water into the milk. For wine whey, boil a jill of sherry in a pint of - milk, without stirring it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TAPIOCA.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having washed in cold water three heaped table-spoonfuls of tapioca; drain - it, put it into a clean quart bowl, pour on water enough to cover it well, - and soak it four hours. Then pour on as much more water, transfer the - whole to a porcelain skillet, in the bottom of which you have laid the - yellow peel of a fresh lemon, pared so thin as to be transparent, and boil - the tapioca gently till it looks quite clear. Then take out the lemon - peel, and stir in sufficient loaf sugar to make it very sweet. If - approved, flavor it with some madeira or sherry, and some grated nutmeg. - Tapioca may be boiled in plain milk, with no seasoning but the sugar to - sweeten it. - </p> - <p> - <i>Sago.</i>—Pick and wash clean, in two cold waters, a half pint of - sago. Put it into a porcelain skillet, with the yellow rind of a lemon - pared tran<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_593" id="Page_593">[593]</a></span>sparent. - Pour on it a quart of water, and let it all soak for two hours. Then set - it over the fire, and boil it, gently, till the lemon is all to pieces and - nearly dissolved, and the sago looks clear. Take out the lemon peel, and - stir in, if permitted, some sherry wine, sugar, and grated nutmeg, and - give it another boil. - </p> - <p> - If the above seasoning is not allowed, boil the sago in milk only, or - water only, till the liquid becomes thick and like a jelly. - </p> - <p> - <i>Sago Pudding for an invalid.</i>—Boil three table-spoonfuls of <i>soaked</i> - sago in a pint of milk till quite soft. Add gradually three ounces of - white sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat three eggs till thick and - smooth, and stir them by degrees into the sago and milk. Grate in some - nutmeg, and bake the pudding in a deep dish. Tapioca pudding is made in - the same manner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEETBREADS FOR INVALIDS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut open two fine fresh sweetbreads, and lay them in warm water till all - the blood is discharged. Then transfer them to a pan of cold water to - blanch or whiten. Stew them in the strained liquid of fresh oysters, till - quite tender. When done, take out the sweetbreads, remove the gristle or - pipe, and serve them up warm, having laid in the bottom of the dish a - slice of nice toast that has been dipped for a minute in hot water. If - permitted, the oysters may be cooked with the sweetbread, first removing - the hard part.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_594" id="Page_594">[594]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - STEWED SMELTS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Smelts are considered a delicate and nutritious fish for invalids. They - are in season in winter, and early in the spring. Choose them as large as - you can find them. Having drawn and cleaned them, cut off their heads and - tails. Put sufficient water to cover them in a small stew-pan, adding a - very little powdered white sugar, and a few small sprigs of parsley, or - sweet marjoram. When the water boils lay in the fish, and simmer them five - minutes. Then stir in a very little arrow root, mixed with a few drops of - cold water, and let it stew ten minutes longer. Serve up the stew in a - small deep dish with a cover, and eat with it some very light bread-roll. - It will be a pleasant change from the usual broths and infusions prepared - for the sick. - </p> - <p> - <i>A Molasses Supper.</i>—Make a thick slice of very nice toast, - evenly browned on both sides, but not the least burnt. Lay it in a pint - bowl, and pour over it a small half pint of the best <i>West India</i> - molasses, having stirred into the molasses a heaped table-spoonful of - ground ginger. Mix the molasses with half a pint of hot water, and pour - the whole over the toast. Cover it with a plate for a few minutes, and eat - it while warm, previous to going to bed. This is a wholesome strengthening - palatable supper for an invalid, (as we know by experience) and may be - continued as long as the patient continues to like it. It is always a good - winter supper for children. The ginger must on no account be omitted. If - the molasses has turned a little sour, stir in a salt-spoonful of soda.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_595" id="Page_595">[595]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - To prevent a jug of molasses from running over when kept in a warm place, - pour out a little into another vessel, and leave the molasses jug uncorked - for two days. Then cork it tightly. - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="MISCELLANEOUS_RECEIPTS" id="MISCELLANEOUS_RECEIPTS"></a>MISCELLANEOUS - RECEIPTS. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - TEA.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - No metal (not even silver,) is good for tea-pots. All tea should be made - in china or queensware. Wedgewood (whether black or white) imbibes much of - the essence of the tea, and from constant use soon becomes unpleasant. - Britannia ware is exceedingly unwholesome for any sort of cooking, as one - fourth of the composition is copper. Block tin for a common tea-pot is - less objectionable, and much cheaper. All tea-pots should, after using, be - thoroughly emptied of the old leaves, and washed very clean in warm water, - and set open in the sun and air for several hours. To make good tea, the - tea itself, whether black or green, must be of excellent quality. There is - no economy in buying that which is low-priced. Green tea, if fresh and - good, and not adulterated will look green in the cup, and have a fragrant - odor. If it draws red, or brown, or blackish, it is old or mixed with - something wrong. Begin to make your tea about a quarter of an hour before - it is wanted. Scald the tea-pot (twice over) with boiling water. Then put - in the tea, allowing three heaping table-spoonfuls to each<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_596" id="Page_596">[596]</a></span> person, - and a pint of water, actually boiling, when put in. Cover it closely with - the lid, and set it by the fire for ten or fifteen minutes to infuse. - After the first cups have gone round, put some fresh tea into the pot, and - pour on it some more boiling water, that the second cups may be as strong - as the first, having time to infuse. Weak tea for company is very mean. - For those that like it so, have a small pot of water on the server. If the - water is not boiling fast when poured on the tea, and is beginning to - cool, the tea will be flat and insipid, and the leaves will float on the - surface of the cups. There is then no remedy but to make some fresh. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COFFEE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To drink coffee in perfection, a sufficient quantity for breakfast should - be roasted every morning, and ground hot, as it loses much of its strength - by keeping even for a few hours. The best coffee roasters are iron - cylinders, (standing on feet) with a door in one side, and a handle that - turns the cylinder round towards the fire or from it, that the coffee may - be equally done throughout. It must be roasted a bright brown color, and - on no account black or burnt. When about half done, put in bits of fresh - butter, allowing a table-spoonful to a pound of coffee. Previous to - roasting pick the coffee carefully, throwing away the defective grains, - and the stones or sand. Coffee should be ground while warm in a<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_597" id="Page_597">[597]</a></span> mill - kept solely for that purpose, and fastened up against the kitchen wall. - </p> - <p> - For boiled coffee allow four ounces of ground coffee (or a quarter of a - pound) to a quart of water. When the water boils, stir in the coffee. Give - it one hard boil up. Then set it farther from the fire, and simmer it for - ten minutes, adding the white of an egg, (including the egg shell,) or a - small strip of isinglass. Pour out a large cup of the coffee, and then - (holding it high above the coffee-pot,) pour it back again. Repeat this - till wanted, and then set the coffee-pot beside the fire, (but not over - it.) For company, allow six ounces of coffee to a quart of water. Keep the - lid always on, but if when boiling hard it rises and seems inclined to run - over, remove it instantly from the fire and set it back. Cream is - indispensable to first-rate coffee; if not to be obtained sweet, - substitute rich milk boiling hot. On no consideration fill up the - coffee-pot with water. A percolator (to be had at the best tin stores) - makes excellent coffee without boiling, if properly managed. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHOCOLATE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - There is no plain chocolate better than Baker's prepared cacao, and none - has so much of the true chocolate flavor. The foreign chocolate is - generally mixed with sugar, spice, and milk. It cannot be made thick and - strong, and therefore to many tastes is not agreeable. To make a pint (or - two large cupfuls of chocolate,) scrape down two ounces on a plate, and - moisten<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_598" id="Page_598">[598]</a></span> - the chocolate with a jill of water, rubbing it on the plate till quite - smooth. Then boil it five minutes, and add a small pint of water. When it - has been well stirred with a wooden spoon, and has come again to a boil, - serve it as hot as possible, accompanied by a saucer of fine loaf sugar, - and a small jug of rich hot cream and a plate of nice dry toast, or some - milk biscuits or sponge cake. Milled chocolate is made with rich unskimmed - milk instead of water. The chocolate mill is a deep pot, belonging to - which is a stick with a broad wheel-shaped bottom, the other end coming up - through a hole in the lid. Take this between your hands, and turn it round - fast till the chocolate is finely frothed. Then transfer it to large cups. - Chocolate, after it becomes cold, is unfit to drink. But if made with - milk, you can convert what is left into a custard or pudding, with the - addition of more sugar and some beaten egg. The low-priced chocolate is - both unpalatable and unwholesome, being adulterated with animal fat or - lard, and made with <i>old</i> cacao beans. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MILK TOAST.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To a pint of nice rich milk allow a quarter of a pound of excellent <i>fresh</i> - butter. Boil the milk, and as soon as it boils take it off, and stir in - the butter cut into pieces. When the butter has melted, give it another - boil up Have ready a deep plate with four rather thick slices of bread, - nicely and evenly toasted on both sides. Pour the milk hot over the toast, - and keep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_599" id="Page_599">[599]</a></span> - it covered till it goes to the breakfast table. Send a spoon with it. - Bread should always be toasted by a long-handled fork, such as are made - for the purpose. They cost but twenty-five cents, and no kitchen should be - without one. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BUTTERED TOAST.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut even slices of bread all of the same thickness, and pare off the whole - of the crust. With a long-handled toasting fork toast it evenly on both - sides, taking care that no part of it is burnt or blackened. Butter the - slices hot, as you take them off the fork, (using none but nice fresh - butter) and lay them evenly on a heated plate. Cover them till they go to - table. - </p> - <p> - All toast prepared for cookery, (to lay in the bottom of dishes,) should - have the crust pared off, and be dipped in hot water after toasting. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RASPBERRY VINEGAR.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a gallon of fine ripe raspberries. Put them into a large deep earthen - pan, and mash them well with a wooden beetle. Then pour them with all - their juice into a large and very clean linen bag, and squeeze and press - out their liquid into a vessel beneath. Measure it, and to each pint of - juice allow half a pint of the best and clearest cider vinegar, and half a - pound of fine loaf sugar, powdered. First mix the juice and the vinegar, - and give them a boil in a porcelain kettle. Then stir in the sugar, gra<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_600" id="Page_600">[600]</a></span>dually, - adding to every two pounds of sugar a beaten white of egg. Boil and skim - till the scum ceases to rise. When it is done, bottle it cold, cork it - tightly, and seal the corks. To use it, pour out half a tumbler of - raspberry vinegar, and fill up with ice water. It is a pleasant and - cooling beverage in warm weather, and for invalids who are feverish. Mixed - with hot water, and taken at bed-time, it is good for a cold. - </p> - <p> - <i>Strawberry Vinegar</i>—Is made in the above manner, carefully - hulling them. The strawberries must be of the finest kind, and fully ripe. - These vinegars are made with much less trouble than the usual way; and are - quite as good, if not better. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MACARONI.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - In buying macaroni, choose that of a large pipe; see that it is clean and - white and that it has not been touched by insects. Half a pound makes one - dish. If <i>soaked</i> before boiling it is apt to dissolve or go to - pieces, but wash and drain it through cold water in a sieve. Have over the - fire a large pan of boiling water, in which has been melted a piece of - fresh butter the size of an egg. If boiled steadily, it will be quite - tender in less than an hour; but do not boil it so long that the pipes - break up and lose their shape. Having drained it well through a clean - sieve, transfer it to a deep dish, dividing it into four layers, having - first cut it into even lengths of two or three inches. Between the layers - place on it seasoning of grated cheese of the very best qua<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_601" id="Page_601">[601]</a></span>lity, and - bits of fresh butter, with some powdered mace. On the top layer, add to - the covering of cheese and butter sufficient bread-crumbs to form a slight - crust all over the surface. Brown it with a salamander or a red hot - shovel. Or (omitting the cheese) you may dress it with rich gravy of roast - meat. - </p> - <p> - <i>For Sweet Macaroni.</i>—Having boiled it in milk instead of - water, drain it, and mix with it powdered mace and nutmeg, with butter, - sugar, and rose or peach-water. Macaroni (like vermicelli) has in itself - no taste, but is only made palatable by the manner of dressing it. Good - soup is rather weakened than improved by the addition of macaroni. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COMMON OMELET.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Beat five eggs till very light and thick. Stir gradually into the pan of - eggs four table-spoonfuls of sifted flour. Thin the batter with a large - tea-cup of milk. Take a yeast powder; dissolve the soda (from the blue - paper) in a small quantity of tepid or lukewarm water, and stir it into - the batter. In another cup melt the tartaric acid, (from the white paper;) - stir that into the mixture, and stir the whole very hard. Have ready in a - frying-pan a large portion of lard, boiling hot. Put in the omelet - mixture, and fry it well. When one side is done turn it, and fry the - other. To flavor this omelet, mix gradually into the batter either grated - ham or smoked tongue; minced oysters; minced onion; mixed<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_602" id="Page_602">[602]</a></span> with - sweet marjoram, or else some mushrooms chopped very fine. - </p> - <p> - <i>For a Sweet Omelet</i>, add to the above batter powdered sugar, nutmeg, - mace, and powdered cinnamon. - </p> - <p> - The custom is now to dish omelets without folding them over, it being - found that folding renders them heavy. Spread them out at full length on a - very hot dish. The batter for omelets should always be made in sufficient - quantity to allow them very thick. - </p> - <p> - There is no use in attempting to flavor an omelet, or any thing else, with - marmalade or lemon, if you put in soda. The alkalies destroy the taste of - every sort of fruit. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A PLAIN POTATO PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having pared a pound of fine large potatos, put them into a pot, cover - them well with cold water, and boil them gently till tender all through. - When done, lay each potato (one at a time,) in a clean warm napkin, and - press and wring it till all the moisture is squeezed out, and the potato - becomes a round, dry lump. Mince as fine as possible a quarter of a pound - of fresh beef suet, (divested of skin, and strings.) Crumble the potato, - and mix it well with the suet, adding a small salt-spoon of salt. Add - sufficient milk to make a thick batter, and beat it well. Dip a strong - square cloth in hot water, shake it out, and dredge it well with flour. - Tie the pudding in, leaving room for it to swell,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_603" id="Page_603">[603]</a></span> and put it into a large pot - of hot water and boil it steady for an hour. This is a good and economical - family pudding. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ELLEN CLARK'S PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Slice, rather thick, some fresh bread. Pare off all the crust. Butter the - bread on both sides, and lay it in a deep dish. Fill up with molasses very - profusely, having first seasoned the molasses with ginger, ground - cinnamon, and powdered mace or nutmeg. It will be much improved by adding - the grated yellow rind and the juice of a large lemon or orange. Bake it - till brown all over the top, and till the bread and butter has absorbed - the molasses; taking care not to let it burn. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ARROW-ROOT BISCUIT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mix in a pan half a pint of arrow-root, and half a pint of sifted wheat - flour. Cut up a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and rub it into the - pan of flour, crumbling the bits of butter so small as to be scarcely - visible. Mix a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar, and wet it with - a beaten egg. Add gradually a very little cream, just enough to make it - into a stiff dough. Flavor it with the grated yellow rind and juice of a - lemon, and half a nutmeg grated. Roll out the dough into thin sheets, and - cut it out into biscuits with the edge of a tumbler. Prick every biscuit - all over with a fork. Lay them in square pans<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_604" id="Page_604">[604]</a></span> slightly floured, and bake - them immediately. They will be improved by adding (at the last of the - mixture) a table-spoonful of the best rose-water. If rose-water is put - into cakes <i>early</i> in the mixing, much of its strength will evaporate - before baking. It should always be deferred to the last. These are very - nice tea biscuits. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ONTARIO CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pint and a half (or three large breakfast cups,) of sifted flour, - and the same quantity of powdered white sugar, and half a pint of milk; a - quarter of a pint or half a cup of the best fresh butter, and the grated - yellow rind and juice of a large lemon. Have ready four well-beaten eggs, - and two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh yeast. - </p> - <p> - Cut up the butter into the pan of flour. Add the milk and sugar gradually, - and then the beaten egg, and then the lemon; next the yeast. Stir the - whole very well, and set it to rise in a buttered pan. Place it near the - fire, and cover it with a clean flannel or a double cloth. When it has - risen and is quite light, and is cracked all over the surface, transfer it - to a square baking pan, put it immediately into the oven, and bake it - well. When cool, either ice it or sift white sugar over it, and cut it - into squares. Or, you may bake it in a round loaf, or in small round - cakes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_605" id="Page_605">[605]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - NEW-YEAR'S CAKE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stir together a pound of nice fresh butter, and a pound of powdered white - sugar, till they become a light thick cream. Then stir in, gradually, - three pounds of sifted flour. Add, by degrees, a tea-spoonful of soda - dissolved in a small tea-cup of milk, and then a half salt-spoonful of - tartaric acid, melted in a large table-spoonful of warm water. Then mix - in, gradually, three table-spoonfuls of fine carraway seeds. Roll out the - dough into sheets half an inch thick, and cut it with a jagging iron into - oval or oblong cakes, pricked with a fork. Bake them immediately in - shallow iron pans, slightly greased with fresh butter. The bakers in New - York ornament these cakes, with devices or pictures raised by a wooden - stamp. They are good plain cakes for children. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GOOD YEAST.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two handfuls of hops. The best hops have a fresh light green color, - and a pleasant, lively smell. Pour on them two quarts of boiling water, - and let them boil five minutes after they have come to a boil; not longer, - for it makes them bitter. Then strain the liquid into a pan, and add a - table-spoonful of brown sugar and one of salt. When lukewarm, stir in - flour enough to make a thick batter. Add a jill and a half of fresh - baker's yeast. Set it in a warm place till it begins to ferment; then keep - it in the cellar well corked. - </p> - <p> - This yeast will continue good two weeks. When<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_606" id="Page_606">[606]</a></span> you open the jug to take - out some yeast, put in always a table-spoonful of flour before you cork it - up again. - </p> - <p> - A stone jug or pitcher is a good vessel for yeast. Wash it very clean in - hot water, always before you put in fresh yeast, and then rinse the jug - with water in which a spoonful of pearlash has been melted, letting the - pearlash water remain in it five or six minutes, and shaking it round - hard. Then rinse it with plain cold water. - </p> - <p> - All vessels that have contained acids should have pearlash or soda in the - rinsing water, and then be finished with plain water. - </p> - <p> - Never clean a bottle by rinsing it with shot. The lead is poisonous, and - has caused death. Some bits of raw potato chopped, and put in the water, - will clean the inside of bottles or jugs, and brighten decanters. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - YEAST POWDERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Get two ounces of bicarbonate of soda, and one ounce of tartaric acid. - Divide the soda into equal portions, about a level tea-spoonful in each, - and the tartaric acid into level salt-spoonfuls. By <i>level</i> we mean - that the article is not to be heaped in the least, not rising above the - edge of the spoon. Cut some papers of regular and sufficient size, and - fold them nicely. Put the soda into white papers, and the tartaric acid - into blue papers. Place an equal number of each in a little square or - oblong box, standing up the papers on their folded edges. Dissolve them<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_607" id="Page_607">[607]</a></span> in two - separate cups, in as much tepid water as will cover the powder. They must - be entirely melted before using. Stir in the soda at the beginning, and - the tartaric acid at the conclusion of the batter or cake mixture. - </p> - <p> - We do not approve of the introduction of these substances into cakes. They - give a sort of factitious lightness very different from that honestly - produced by a liberal allowance of egg and butter, genuine yeast, and good - beating and stirring—but they destroy the taste of the seasoning, - and are certain destruction to the taste of lemon, orange, strawberry, - pine-apple, and every kind of fruit flavoring. The justly celebrated Mrs. - Goodfellow never used any of them in her school, and the articles made - there by her pupils, (of whom the author was one) were such as no money - can purchase in the present times. Any confectioner who would <i>faithfully</i> - revive them could make a fortune by doing so. - </p> - <p> - The present introduction of hartshorn into bread and cakes is an - abomination, rendering the articles equally unpalatable and unwholesome. - Cannot the use of hartshorn in food be put down? Which of our <i>American</i> - doctors will write a book on "culinary poisons." - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VINEGAR.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mix together in a clean keg three gallons of clear rain water, (that has - been caught in a clean tub without running over the roof of a house,) one - quart of <i>West India</i> molasses, and one<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_608" id="Page_608">[608]</a></span> pint of baker's yeast. - Cover it, and set it in a warm place where it will be exposed to the - summer sun. Remember to shake the cask every day. In three months it will - be excellent vinegar. Then transfer it to stone jugs, and keep it closely - corked. Begin it in May. - </p> - <p> - So much of the vinegar sold in stores is concocted of pernicious drugs, - that we recommend all families to make their own, or to buy it from a - cider farmer. Good cider, set in the sun, will after a while become good - vinegar. - </p> - <p> - What is shamefully called the best white wine vinegar is frequently a slow - poison, as may be known by its action upon oysters, pickles, &c. It is - quite clear and well to look at. Its taste is very sharp and pungent, as - to overpower and render every thing that is with it painfully sour, and it - has a singular and disagreeable smell when boiling. Oysters cooked with - this vinegar go immediately into rags, and are soon entirely eaten up, or - dissolved into a thin whitish liquid, fit for nothing but to throw away. - </p> - <p> - Pickles the same. A punishment should be provided by law for persons who - manufacture and sell these deleterious compounds, of which we have now so - many, that it would indeed be well if we could make at home, as far as - possible, every thing we eat and drink. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - PINK CHAMPAGNE— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - (<i>Domestic.</i>)—Pick from the stems three quarts of fine ripe red - currants,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_609" id="Page_609">[609]</a></span> - and mix with them three quarts of ripe white currants. Bruise them all. - Put nine pounds of loaf sugar to melt in three gallons of very clear soft - water. Boil the water and sugar together for half an hour, skimming - carefully, and pour the liquid boiling hot over the currants. When it is - nearly cold, add a small tea-cupful of excellent strong fresh yeast. Let - it ferment for two days, and then strain it into a small cask through a - very clean hair sieve. Put into the cask half an ounce of finely-chipped - isinglass. Have rather more liquor than will fill the cask at first, and - keep it to fill up as it works over. In about a fortnight bung it up. Let - it remain in the cask till April. Then transfer it to bottles, (putting - into each a lump of double-refined loaf sugar,) and letting them remain - one day uncorked. Then cork and wire them. They must stand upright in the - cellar; but when likely to be wanted, lay a few of them on their sides for - a week. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SHERRY COBBLER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Lay in the bottom of a large tumbler, two table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf - sugar, and squeeze over it (through a strainer) the juice of a large lemon - that has been softened by rolling under your hand. Then half fill the - tumbler with ice, broken very small. Add a large glass of very good sherry - wine. Take another tumbler, and pour the liquid back and forward from - glass to glass, till completely mixed without<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_610" id="Page_610">[610]</a></span> stirring. Sip it through a - clean straw, or one of the tubes made on purpose. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MINT JULEP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut two or three round slices from a fine ripe pine-apple that has been - pared; and take out the core or hard part from the centre of each slice. A - still better way is to split down the pine-apple into four pieces, and - grate two of the quarters with a coarse grater, standing it upright while - doing so. Put it into a large tumbler, and cover the fruit with two or - three heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Add a large glass of - the best brandy, and pour on cold water till the tumbler is two-thirds - full. Then put in a thick layer of finely broken ice, till it almost - reaches the top. Finish by sticking in a full bunch of fresh green mint in - handsome sprigs, that rise far above one side of the tumbler; and at the - other side place a clean straw, or one of the tubes used for the same - purpose. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CAROLINA PUNCH.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Mix together a tumbler of peach brandy and a tumbler of water, the juice - of two lemons, the yellow rinds of four, pared to transparent thinness, - and four large juicy free-stone peaches cut in half, and the kernels of - their stones blanched and broken up. If you cannot obtain peaches, quarter - and grate down a ripe pine-apple. Let all these ingredients<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_611" id="Page_611">[611]</a></span> infuse - with a quart of Jamaica spirits in a bowl for two days before the punch is - wanted. Keep it carefully covered with a cloth. Then pour on sufficient - cold water to make the punch of the desired strength; and strain the - liquid into another bowl, and put in a large lump of ice. Serve it out in - small glasses. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - NECTAR.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two pounds of <i>the best</i> raisins, seeded and chopped; the grated - yellow rind and the juice of four fine lemons, and two pounds of loaf - sugar, powdered. Put the sugar into a large porcelain kettle, and melt it - in a gallon of water. Boil and skim it for half an hour, and while it is - boiling hard, put in by degrees the raisins and lemons. Continue the - boiling about ten minutes. Put the mixture into a stoneware crock, and - cover it closely. Let it stand three days, stirring it down to the bottom - twice every day. Then strain it through a linen bag, and bottle it, - sealing the corks. It will be fit for use in a fortnight. Take it in - wine-glasses, with a bit of ice in each. This is a nice temperance drink. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHOCOLATE CARAMEL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take half a pint of rich milk, and put it to boil in a porcelain kettle; - scrape down a square and a half of Baker's chocolate, put it into a very - clean tin cup, and set on the top of a stove till it becomes soft. Let the - milk boil up <i>twice</i>. Then add, gradually,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_612" id="Page_612">[612]</a></span> the chocolate, and stir - both over the fire till thoroughly mixed and free from lumps. Stir in a - half pint of the best white sugar powdered, and half a jill (or four large - table-spoonfuls,) of molasses. Let the whole boil fast and constantly (so - as to bubble,) for at least one hour or more, till it is nearly as stiff - as good mush. When all is done add a small tea-spoonful of essence of - vanilla, and transfer the mixture to shallow tin pans, slightly greased - with very nice sweet oil. Set it on ice, or in a very cool place, and - while yet soft mark it deeply in squares with a very sharp knife. When - quite hard, cut the squares apart. If it does not harden well it has not - been boiled long enough, or fast enough. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EGGS TO BOIL.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The water must be boiling fast when the eggs are put in. First wipe them - clean all over, with a wet cloth. It is true that the shells are never - eaten, but still, if brought to table dirty and discolored, they look - slovenly, disgusting, and vulgar, such as are never seen in good houses. - Put them into water that is boiling fast; and if desired very soft, four - minutes will be sufficient. Six or eight minutes will barely set the - whites and yolks, and ten or twelve minutes (in water that is really - boiling,) will render them hard enough for salad. In the egg-boilers that - are set on the table no egg will ever boil hard, as the water cools too - soon. A <i>stale</i> egg never boils hard.<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_613" id="Page_613">[613]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Except in the spring, and late in the winter, there is often much - difficulty in obtaining good eggs, unless you have fowls of your own. If - an egg is really fresh, when held up against the light, the yolk looks - round and compact and the white clear and transparent; you may then trust - it. But if the yolk is thick, broken, and mixed among the white, and the - white is cloudy and muddled, it is certainly bad, and should be thrown - away. When tried in a pan of cold water the freshest will sink, and the - stale ones float on the surface. It requires strong brine to bear up a - good egg. Eggs may be preserved for keeping a few months, by putting every - one in fast boiling water for <i>one minute</i>. Then grease them all over - the outside with good melted fat, and wedge down close together (layer - above layer,) in a box of powdered charcoal. This preserves them for a sea - voyage of several weeks. The charcoal box must be kept closely covered, - and closed immediately whenever opened. Pack the eggs with the small end - downwards. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POACHED EGGS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - See that the eggs are quite fresh. Pour from a kettle of boiling water - enough to fill a broad shallow stew-pan. Break the eggs into a saucer, - (one at a time,) slip them carefully into the hot water, and let them - stand in it till the whites are set. Then put the pan over a moderate - fire; and, as soon as the water boils again, the eggs are ready. The - whites should be firm, and the yolks should appear in the centre<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_614" id="Page_614">[614]</a></span> looking - yellow through a thin transparent coating of the white. Take them out - carefully (one by one,) with an egg-slice. Have ready, for each egg, a - nice slice of toast of a light brown or yellow all over. Trim off all the - crust, and dip the toast for a minute in hot water. Then butter it <i>slightly</i> - with fresh butter. Trim off neatly the ragged and discolored white from - the edge of each egg. Lay a poached egg in the middle of every toast, and - serve them up warm. - </p> - <p> - Instead of toast, you may lay beneath every egg a thin slice of ham, that - has been soaked, and nicely broiled and trimmed. Or, large thin slices - from the breast of a cold roast turkey, or cold fillet of roast pork or - veal. These are nice breakfast dishes. - </p> - <p> - <i>Scrambled Eggs.</i>—Make a mixture as for an omelet, but instead - of frying put it into a sauce-pan, and when it has boiled five minutes - take it off, and chop and mix all the ingredients into confusion. Serve it - up hot in a deep dish. It is eaten at breakfast, and is by many preferred - to a fried omelet. You may season it with grated ham, tongue, or sweet - herbs. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EGG-NOGG.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Beat, till very light and thick, the yolks only of six eggs. Stir the - eggs, gradually, into a quart of rich unskimmed milk, and add half a pound - of powdered loaf sugar, a half pint of brandy, and a grated nutmeg. Next - beat three whites of the eggs by themselves, and stir<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_615" id="Page_615">[615]</a></span> them quickly into the - mixture. Divide it into two pitchers, and pour it back and forward from - one pitcher to the other till it has a fine froth. Then serve it in a - large china bowl, with a silver ladle in it, and distribute it in glasses - with handles. - </p> - <p> - <i>To Beat Eggs.</i>—For beating eggs have a broad shallow earthen - pan. If beaten in tin, the coldness of the metal retards their lightness; - for the same reason, hickory rods are better than tin wire. Beat with a - short quick stroke, holding the egg rods in your right hand close to your - side, and do not exert your elbow, or use your arm violently with a hard - sweeping stroke; of this there is no necessity. If beaten in a proper - manner, (moving your hand <i>only</i> at the wrist) the eggs will be light - long before you are fatigued. But you must continue beating till after the - froth has subsided, and the pan of eggs presents a smooth thick surface, - like a nice boiled custard. White of egg is done if it stands stiff alone, - and will not fall from the beater when held upon it. - </p> - <p> - Butter and sugar should always be stirred with a strong hickory spaddle, - which resembles a short mush stick, rather broad and flattened at one end. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BRAN MUFFINS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take three quarts of bran, (unbolted wheat flour) and sift it into a large - pan. Warm three half pints of rich milk, mixing with it half a common - tumbler of <i>West India</i> molasses. Cut up in the warm milk and - molasses two ounces or two large heaped table-spoonfuls of fresh but<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_616" id="Page_616">[616]</a></span>ter, and - stir it about till well mixed all through. Then stir all the liquid into - the flour. Beat in a shallow pan three eggs till very thick and light, and - then stir them gradually into the pan of flour, &c. Lastly, add two - table-spoonfuls of strong fresh yeast. Cover the mixture and set it to - rise. When risen very light heat a griddle on the oven of a stove, set - muffin rings upon it, fill the rings nearly to the top, and bake the - muffins. Send them to table hot, pull them open with your fingers, and - butter them. They will be much liked if properly made and baked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COTTAGE CHEESE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - This is a good way of using up a pan of milk that is found to be turning - sour. Or you may turn it, on purpose, by stirring in a spoonful of cider - vinegar. Having covered it, set it in a warm place till it becomes a curd. - Then pour off the liquid, and tie up the curd in a clean linen bag with a - pointed end, and set a bowl under it to catch the droppings; but do not - squeeze it. After it has drained ten or twelve hours, transfer the curd to - a deep dish, enrich it with some cream, and press and chop it with a large - spoon till it is a soft mass; adding, as you proceed, an ounce or more of - nice fresh butter. Then set it on ice till tea-time. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FRENCH HAM PIE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having soaked, boiled, and skinned a small ham of the best quality, and<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_617" id="Page_617">[617]</a></span> taken - out the bone, trim it into a handsome oval shape. Of the trimmings make a - rich gravy by stewing them in a sauce-pan with a little water, and four - pigs feet, (split up.) Have ready a plentiful sufficiency of nice - forcemeat made of cold roast chicken or veal, minced suet, and grated - bread-crumbs, butter, minced sweet marjoram or tarragon, and some - hard-boiled yolk of egg crumbled. Have ready, prepared, a very nice puff - paste; line with it the bottom and sides of a large deep dish, and lay in - it the oval ham, filling up at the corners and all round with the - forcemeat, and spreading a layer of it on the top. Pour on gravy to - moisten the whole, and put on the paste intended for the lid. Notch the - edges handsomely, and stick a flower or tulip of paste in the cross slit - at the top, and place a wreath of paste leaves all round. Bake it light - brown, and eat it warm or cold. It is a fine dish for a dinner or supper - party, or for a handsome luncheon or breakfast. - </p> - <p> - <i>A Tongue Pie</i>—Is made in a similar manner of a boiled smoked - tongue, peeled and trimmed, and filled in with forcemeat. For a large - company have <i>two</i> tongue pies, as it will be much liked, if made as - above. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FIG PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a pint of very ripe figs, (peeled,) cut them up and mash them smooth - with the grated yellow rind of a large ripe lemon or orange, and the juice - of two. Mix together a large spoonful of fresh butter, and two - table-spoonfuls<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_618" id="Page_618">[618]</a></span> - of sugar, and stir the whole very hard. Bake it in a deep dish, and eat it - fresh, but not warm. Grate sugar over the surface. When <i>ripe</i> figs - can be obtained, this pudding is much liked. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - POKE PLANT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Early in the spring, the young green stalks of the pokeberry plant, (when - they are still mild and tender, and have not yet acquired a reddish tinge - or a strong unpleasant taste,) are generally much liked as a vegetable, - and are by many persons considered equal to asparagus. They are brought in - bundles to Philadelphia market. Wash and drain them, and put them on to - boil in a pot of cold water. When <i>quite tender</i> all through they are - done. Dish them in the manner of asparagus, laid on a toast dipped for a - minute in hot water, and then buttered. - </p> - <p> - You may pour a very little drawn or melted butter over the poke. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RHUBARB TARTS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take large fresh stalks of the rapontica plant, such as are full-grown and - reddish. Peel off the thin skin, and cut them into bits all of the same - size, either one inch or two inches long. Wash them in cold water through - a cullender, (but do not drain them much,) and put them into a stew-pan - without any more water. Mix with them plenty of good sugar, in the - proportion of half a pound of sugar to a pint of cut-up rhubarb stalks. - Cover it, and stew it slowly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_619" - id="Page_619">[619]</a></span> till quite soft. Then mash it into a smooth - mass. Have some puff-paste shells baked empty; and when cool, fill them to - the top, and grate nutmeg and powdered sugar thickly over them. The juice - and grated yellow rind of a lemon (added when the rhubarb is half stewed,) - will be a pleasant flavoring. This is sometimes called "spring-fruit" and - "pie-plant." It comes earlier, but is by no means so good as gooseberries. - We do not think it worth preserving, or making into a sweetmeat. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - VOL-AU-VENT.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Have ready a large quantity of the best and lightest puff paste. Roll it - an inch thick, and then cut it neatly into shapes, either square or - circular. Bake every one separately on a flat tin pan, cutting a round - hole in the centre of each, and fitting in pieces of stale bread to keep - the holes open while baking. The cakes of paste should diminish in size as - they ascend to the top, but the holes should all be of exactly the same - dimensions. The lower cake, which goes at the bottom, should be solid and - not perforated at all. The small cake which finishes the top of the - pyramid must also be left solid, for a lid. When all the cakes are baked - and risen high, (as good puff-paste always does) take them carefully off - the baking plates; remove the bread that has kept the centres open and in - shape; brush over every cake, separately, with beaten white of egg, and - pile one upon another nicely and evenly so as to form a pyramid. Have - ready a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_620" id="Page_620">[620]</a></span> - very nice stew of oysters or game cut small, and cooked with cream, &c. - Fill the pyramid with this, and then put on the top or lid, which may - terminate in a flower of baked paste. - </p> - <p> - <i>A Sweet Vol-au-Vent</i>—May be filled with small preserves, or - with ripe strawberries or raspberries, made very sweet. Vol-au-vents are - for dinner, or supper parties. The paste should be peculiarly light. The - name <i>Vol-au-vent</i> signifies, in French, something that will fly away - in the wind; which, however, it never does. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A SOUFFLÉ PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take eight rusks, or soft sugar-biscuits, or plain buns. Lay them in a - large deep dish, and pour on a pint of milk, sufficient to soak them - thoroughly. Cover the dish, and let them stand undisturbed for about an - hour and a half before dinner. In the mean time, boil half a pint of milk - in a small sauce-pan with a handful of bitter almonds or peach kernels - broken small, or a small bunch of fresh peach-leaves, with two large - sticks of cinnamon, broken up. Boil this milk slowly, (keeping it - covered,) and when it tastes strongly of the flavoring articles, strain - it, and set it away to cool. When cold, mix it into another pint of milk, - and stir in a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Beat eight eggs - very light, and add them gradually to the milk, so as to make a rich - custard. After dinner has commenced, beat and stir the soaked rusk very - hard till it becomes a smooth mass,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_621" - id="Page_621">[621]</a></span> and then, by degrees, add to it the - custard. Stir the whole till thoroughly amalgamated. Set the dish into a - brisk oven, and bake the pudding rather more than ten minutes. The yeast, - &c., in the rusk, will cause it to puff up very light. When done, send - it to table warm, with white sugar sifted over it. You may serve up with - it as sauce sweetened thick cream flavored with rose-water, and grated - nutmeg, or powdered loaf sugar and fresh butter stirred together in equal - portions, and seasoned with lemon or nutmeg. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ICED PLUM PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take two dozen sweet and half a dozen bitter almonds. Blanch them in - scalding water, and then throw them into a bowl of cold water. Pound them - one at a time in a mortar, till they become a smooth paste, free from the - smallest lumps. As you proceed, add frequently a few drops of rose-water - or lemon juice to make them light, and prevent their oiling. Seed and cut - in half a quarter of a pound of the best bloom raisins. Mix with them a - quarter of a pound of Zante currants, picked, washed, and dried; and add - to the raisins and currants three ounces of citron, chopped. Mix the - citron with the raisins and currants, and dredge them all with flour to - prevent their sinking or clodding. Take a half pint of very rich milk; - split a vanilla bean, and cut it into pieces two or three inches long, and - boil it in the milk till the flavor of the vanilla is well extracted; then - strain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_622" id="Page_622">[622]</a></span> - it out, and mix the vanilla milk with a pint of rich cream, and stir in, - gradually, a half pound of powdered loaf sugar, and a nutmeg grated. Then - add the pounded almonds, and a large wine-glass of either marasquino, - noyau, curaçoa, or the very best brandy. Beat, in a shallow pan, the yolks - of eight eggs till very light, thick, and smooth, and stir them gradually - into the mixture. Simmer it over the fire, (stirring it all the time,) but - take it off just as it is about to come to a boil, otherwise it will - curdle. Then, while the mixture is hot, stir in the raisins, currants, and - citron. Set it to cool, and then add a large tea-cupful of preserved - strawberries or raspberries, half a dozen preserved apricots or peaches; - half a dozen preserved green limes; and any other very nice and delicate - sweetmeats. Then whip to a stiff froth another pint of cream, and add it - lightly to the mixture. Put the whole into a large melon-mould that opens - in the middle, and freeze it in the usual way. It will take four hours to - freeze it well. Do not turn it out till just before it is wanted. Then - send it to table on a glass dish. It will be found delicious. Iced - puddings are now considered indispensable on fashionable supper tables or - at dinner parties. There is no flour in this pudding. The freezing will - keep it together. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RENNETS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Milk turned into a curd with wine is by no means so good as that which is - done with rennet-water alone. The curd and<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_623" id="Page_623">[623]</a></span> whey do not separate so - completely; the curd is less firm, and the whey less clear; the latter - being thick and white, instead of thin and greenish, as it ought to be. - Neither is it so light and wholesome as when turned with rennet. - </p> - <p> - Rennets of the best quality can be had at all seasons in the Philadelphia - market; particularly in the lower part, called the Jersey market. They are - sold at twelve, eighteen, or twenty-five cents, according to their size, - and will keep a year or two; but have most strength when fresh. You may - prepare excellent rennets yourself at a very trifling expense, by - previously bespeaking them of a veal butcher; a rennet being the stomach - of a calf. Its form is a bag. As soon as you get the rennet, empty out all - its contents, and wipe it very clean, inside and out; then rince it with - cold water, but do not wash it much, as washing will weaken its power of - turning milk into curd. When you have made it quite clean, lay the rennet - in a broad pan, strew it over on both sides with plenty of fine salt; - cover it, and let it rest five days. When you take it out of the pan, do - not wipe or wash it, for it must be stretched and dried with the salt on. - For this purpose hold it open like a bag, and slip within it a long, - thick, smooth rod, bent into the form of a large loop wide at the top, and - so narrow at the bottom as to meet together. Stretch the rennet tightly - and smoothly over this bent rod, on which it will be double, and when you - have brought the two ends of the rod together at the bottom, and tied them - fast, the form<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_624" id="Page_624">[624]</a></span> - will somewhat resemble that of a boy's kite. Hang it up in a dry place, - and cut out a bit as you want it. A piece about two inches square will - turn one quart of milk; a piece of four inches, two quarts. Having first - washed off all the salt in several cold waters, and wiped the bit of - rennet dry, pour on it sufficient <i>lukewarm</i> water to cover it well. - Let it stand several hours; then pour the rennet-water into the milk you - intend for the curd, and set it in a warm place. When the curd is entirely - formed, set the vessel on ice. - </p> - <p> - Rennet may be used with good effect before it has <i>quite</i> dried. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - AN EASY WAY OF MAKING BUTTER IN WINTER.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - The following will be found an excellent method of making butter in cold - weather for family use. We recommend its trial. Take, in the morning, the - unskimmed milk of the preceding evening, (after it has stood all night in - a <i>tin</i> pan,) and set it over a furnace of hot coals, or in a stove; - being careful not to disturb the cream that has risen to the surface. Let - it remain over the fire till it simmers, and begins to bubble round the - edges; but on no account let it come to a boil. Then take the pan - carefully off, (without disturbing the cream) and carry it to a cool - place, but not where it is cold enough to freeze. In the evening take a - spoon, and loosen the cream round the sides of the pan. If very rich, it - will be almost a solid cake. Slip off the sheet of cream<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_625" id="Page_625">[625]</a></span> into - another and larger pan, letting as little milk go with it as possible. - Cover it, and set it away. Repeat the process for several days, till you - have thus collected a sufficiency of clotted cream to fill the pan. Then - scald a wooden ladle, and beat the cream hard with it during ten minutes. - You will then have excellent butter. Take it out of the pan, lay it on a - flat dish, and with the ladle squeeze and press it hard, till all the - buttermilk is entirely extracted and drained off. Then wash the butter in - cold water, and work a very little salt into it. Set it away in a cool - place for three hours. Then squeeze and press it again; also washing it a - second time in cold water. Make it up into pats, and keep it in a cool - place. - </p> - <p> - The unskimmed morning's milk, of course, may also be used for this - purpose, after it has stood twelve hours. The simmering over the fire adds - greatly to the quantity of cream, by throwing all the oily part of the - milk to the surface; but if allowed to boil, this oleaginous matter will - again descend, and mix with the rest, so as not to be separated. - </p> - <p> - This is the usual method of making winter butter in the south of England; - and it is very customary in the British provinces of America. Try it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SWEET POTATO PONE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stir together till very light and white, three quarters of a pound of - fresh butter, and three quarters of a pound of powdered white sugar, - adding two table-spoonfuls<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_626" - id="Page_626">[626]</a></span> of ginger. Grate a pound and a half of - sweet potato. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the - butter and sugar, in turn with the grated sweet potato. Dissolve a - tea-spoonful of saleratus or soda in a jill of sour milk, and stir it in - at the last, beating the whole very hard. Butter the inside of a tin pan. - Put in the mixture, and bake it four hours or more. It should be eaten - fresh, cut into slices. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RICE BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - To a pint of well boiled rice add half a pint of wheat flour, mixing them - well together. Take six eggs, and beat the whites and yolks separately. - Having beaten the whites to a stiff froth, mix them gradually with a pint - of rich milk, and two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter, softened at - the fire. Mix, by degrees, the yolks of the eggs with the rice and flour. - Then add the white-of-egg mixture, a little at a time. Stir the whole very - hard. Put it into a buttered tin pan with straight or upright sides. Set - it in a moderate oven, and bake it an hour or more. Then turn it out of - the pan, put it on a dish, and send it warm to the breakfast table, and - eat it with butter. - </p> - <p> - This cake may be baked, by setting the pan that contains it into an iron - dutch-oven, placed over hot coals. Heat the lid of the oven on the inside, - by standing it up before the fire while the rice-bread is preparing; and, - after you put it on, keep the lid covered with hot coals.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_627" id="Page_627">[627]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Rice-bread may be made of ground rice flour, instead of whole rice. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RICE FLOUR BREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift into a pan a pint and a half of rice flour, and a pint and a half of - fine wheat flour. Add two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter or lard, - and mix in a pint and a half of milk. Beat four eggs very light; then stir - them gradually into the mixture. When the whole has been well mixed, add, - at the last, a small tea-spoonful of soda or saleratus, dissolved in as - much warm water as will cover it. Put the whole into a buttered tin pan, - set it immediately into a quick oven, and bake it well. It is best when - eaten fresh. Slice and butter it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - RICE FLOUR BATTER CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or lard, in a quart of milk; - but be careful not to let it begin to boil. Divide the milk equally, by - putting it into two pans. Beat three eggs very light, and stir them into - one half of the milk with the addition of a large table-spoonful of wheat - flour. Stir in as much ground rice flour as will make a thick batter. Then - put in a <i>small</i> tea-cupful of strong fresh yeast, and thin the - batter with the remainder of the milk. Cover it, and set it to rise. When - it has risen high, and is covered with bubbles, bake it on a griddle in - the manner of buckwheat cakes. Send them to table hot, and butter them.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_628" id="Page_628">[628]</a></span> - </p> - <p> - Similar cakes may be made with indian meal instead of rice flour. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - GROUND-NUT MACAROONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a sufficiency of ground-nuts, or pea-nuts, that have been roasted in - an iron pot over the fire; remove the shells, and weigh a pound of the - nuts. Put them into a pan of cold water, and wash off the skins. Have - ready some beaten white of egg. Pound the ground-nuts (two or three at a - time,) in a marble mortar, adding frequently a little cold water to - prevent their oiling. They must be pounded to a smooth light paste; and, - as you proceed, remove the paste to a saucer or a plate. Beat, to a stiff - froth, the whites of four eggs, and then beat into it gradually a pound of - powdered loaf sugar, and a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg - mixed. Then stir in, by degrees, the pounded ground-nuts, till the mixture - becomes very thick. Flour your hands, and roll between them portions of - the mixture, forming each portion into a little ball. Lay sheets of white - paper on flat baking tins, and place on them the macaroons at equal - distances, flattening them all a little, so as to press down the balls - into cakes. Then sift powdered sugar over each. Place them in a brisk - oven, with more heat at the top than in the bottom. Bake them brown. - </p> - <p> - Almond macaroons may be made as above, mixing one quarter of a pound of - shelled bitter almonds, with three quarters of shelled sweet al<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_629" id="Page_629">[629]</a></span>monds. - For almond macaroons, instead of flouring your hands, you may dip them in - cold water; and when the macaroons are formed on the papers, go slightly - over every one with your fingers wet with cold water. - </p> - <p> - Macaroons may be made, also, of grated cocoa-nut mixed with beaten white - of egg and powdered sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COLUMBIAN PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Tie up closely in a bit of very thin muslin a split vanilla bean, cut into - pieces, and a broken-up stick of cinnamon. Put this bag, with its - contents, into half a pint of rich milk, and boil it a long time till very - highly flavored. Then take out the bag; set the milk near the fire to keep - warm in the pan in which it was boiled, covering it closely. Slice thin a - pound of almond sponge cake, and lay it in a deep dish. Pour over it a - quart of rich cream, with which you must mix the vanilla-flavored milk, - and leave the cake to dissolve in it. Blanch, in scalding water, two - ounces of shelled bitter almonds or peach kernels, and pound them (one at - a time,) to a smooth paste in a marble mortar, pouring on each a few drops - of rose-water or peach-water to prevent their oiling. When the almonds are - done, set them away in a cold place till wanted. Beat eight eggs till very - light and thick; and having stirred together hard the dissolved cake and - the cream, add them gradually to the mixture in turn with the almond, and - half a pound of powdered loaf sugar, a little at a time of each. Butter a - deep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_630" id="Page_630">[630]</a></span> - dish, and put in the mixture. Set the pudding into a brisk oven and bake - it well. Have ready a star nicely cut out of a large piece of candied - citron, a number of small stars, all of equal size, as many as there are - States in the Union, and a sufficiency of rays or long strips also cut out - of citron. The rays should be wide at the bottom and run to a point at the - top. As soon as the pudding comes out of the oven, while it is smoking, - arrange these decorations. Put the large star in the centre, then the rays - so that they will diverge from it, narrowing off towards the edge of the - pudding. Near the edge place the small stars in a circle. - </p> - <p> - Preserved citron-melon will be still better for this purpose than the dry - candied citron. - </p> - <p> - This is a very fine pudding; suitable for a dinner party, or a Fourth of - July dinner. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A WASHINGTON PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick, and wash clean half a pound of Zante currants; drain them, and wipe - them in a towel, and then spread them out on a flat dish, and place them - before the fire to dry thoroughly. Prepare about a quarter of a pound or - half a pint of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Have ready a heaping - tea-spoonful of powdered mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg mixed. When the - currants are dry, dredge them thickly on all sides with flour, to prevent - their sinking or clodding in the pudding while baking. Cut up in a deep - pan half a pound of the best<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_631" - id="Page_631">[631]</a></span> fresh butter, and add to it half a pound of - fine white sugar, powdered. Stir the butter and sugar together with a - wooden spaddle, till they are very light and creamy. Then add a - table-spoonful of wine, and a table-spoonful of brandy. Beat in a shallow - pan, eight eggs till perfectly light, and as thick as a good boiled - custard. Afterwards, mix with them, gradually, a pint of rich milk and the - grated bread-crumbs, stirred in alternately. Next, stir this mixture, by - degrees, into the pan of beaten butter and sugar, and add the currants a - few at a time. Finish with a table-spoonful of strong rose-water; or a - wine-glass full, if it is not very strong. Stir the whole very hard. - Butter a large deep white dish, or two of soup-plate size. Put in the - batter. Set it directly into a brisk oven, and bake it well. When cold, - dredge the surface with powdered sugar. Serve it up in the dish in which - it was baked. You may ornament the tops with bits of citron cut into - leaves and forming a wreath; or with circles of preserved strawberries. - </p> - <p> - This will be found a very fine pudding. It must be baked in time to become - quite cold before dinner. - </p> - <p> - For currants, you may substitute raisins of the best quality; seeded, cut - in half, and well dredged with flour. - </p> - <p> - Instead of rose-water you may stir in the yellow rind (finely grated) of - one large lemon, or two small ones, and their juice also.<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_632" id="Page_632">[632]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A COTTAGE PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take ripe currants, and having stripped them from the stalks, measure as - many as will make a heaping quart. Cover the bottom of a deep dish with - slices of bread, slightly buttered, and with the crust cut off. Put a - thick layer of currants on the bread, and then a layer of sugar. Then - other layers of bread, currants, and sugar, till the dish is full; - finishing at the top with very thin slices of bread. Set it into the oven, - and bake it half an hour. Serve it either warm or cold; and eat it with - sweetened cream. - </p> - <p> - Instead of currants you may take cherries, (first stoning them all,) - raspberries, ripe blackberries, or barberries, plums, (first extracting - the stones,) stewed cranberries, or stewed gooseberries. If the fruit is - previously stewed, the pudding will require but ten minutes' baking. When - it is sent to table, have sugar at hand in case it should not be sweet - enough. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - ICE-CREAM CAKES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Stir together, till very light, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and - a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Beat six eggs very light, and stir - into them a half pint of rich milk. Add, gradually, the eggs and milk to - the butter and sugar, alternately with a half pound of sifted flour. Add a - glass of sweet wine and some grated nutmeg. When all the ingredients are - mixed, stir the batter very hard. Then put it into small deep pans, or - cups that have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_633" id="Page_633">[633]</a></span> - been well buttered, filling them about two thirds with the batter. Set - them immediately into a brisk oven, and bake them brown. When done, remove - them from the cups, and place them to cool on an inverted sieve. When - quite cold make a slit or incision in the side of each cake. If very - light, and properly baked, they will be hollow in the middle. Fill up this - cavity with ice cream, carefully put in with a spoon, and then close the - slit with your fingers to prevent the cream running out. Spread them on a - large dish. Either send them to table immediately before the ice-cream - melts or keep them on ice till wanted. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - WHIPPED CREAM MERINGUES.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take the whites of eight eggs, and beat them to a stiff froth that will - stand alone. Then beat into them, gradually, (a tea-spoonful at a time,) - two pounds or more of finely-powdered loaf sugar; continuing to add sugar - till the mixture is very thick, and finishing with lemon juice or extract - of rose. Have ready some sheets of white paper laid on a baking board, and - with a spoon drop the mixture on it in long oval heaps, about four inches - in length. Smooth and shape them with a broad-bladed knife, dipped - occasionally in cold water. The baking board used for this purpose should - be an inch thick, and must have a slip of iron beneath each end to elevate - it from the floor of the oven, so that it may not scorch, nor the bottoms - of the meringues be baked too hard. This baking-<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_634" id="Page_634">[634]</a></span>board must not be of pine - wood, as a pine board will communicate a disagreeable taste of turpentine. - The oven must be moderate. Bake the meringues of a light brown. When cool, - take them off the paper by slipping a knife nicely beneath the bottom of - each. Then push back or scoop out carefully a portion of the inside of - each meringue, taking care not to break them. Have ready some nice whipped - cream, made in the following proportion:—Take a quarter of a pound - of broken-up loaf sugar, and on some of the lumps rub off the yellow rind - of two large lemons. Powder the sugar, and then mix with it the juice of - the lemons, and grate in some nutmeg. Mix the sugar with a half pint of - sweet white wine. Put into a pan a pint of rich cream, and whip it with - rods or a wooden whisk, or mill it with a chocolate mill till it is a - stiff froth. Then mix in, gradually, the other ingredients; continuing to - whip it hard a while after they are all in. As you proceed, lay the froth - on an inverted sieve, with a dish underneath to catch the droppings; which - droppings must afterwards be whipped and added to the rest. Fill the - inside of each meringue with a portion of the whipped cream. Then put two - together, so as to form one long oval cake, joining them nicely, so as to - unite the flat parts that were next the paper, leaving the inside filled - with the whipped cream. Set them again in the oven for a few minutes. They - must be done with great care and nicety, so as not to break. Each meringue - should be about the usual<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_635" - id="Page_635">[635]</a></span> length of a middle finger. In dropping them - on the paper, take care to shape the oval ends handsomely and smoothly. - They should look like very long kisses. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHOCOLATE PUFFS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Beat very stiff the whites of three eggs, and then beat in gradually half - a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Scrape down very fine three ounces of the - best chocolate, (prepared cocoa is better still,) and dredge it with flour - to prevent its oiling; mixing the flour well among it. Then add it - gradually to the mixture of white of egg and sugar, and stir the whole - very hard. Cover the bottom of a square tin pan with a sheet of fine white - paper, cut to fit exactly. Place upon it thin spots of powdered loaf sugar - about the size of a half dollar. Pile a portion of the mixture on each - spot, smoothing it with the back of a spoon or a broad knife, dipped in - cold water. Sift white sugar over the top of each. Set the pan into a - brisk oven, and bake them a few minutes. When cold, loosen them from the - paper with a broad knife. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - COCOA-NUT PUFFS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Break up a large ripe cocoa-nut. Pare the pieces, and lay them awhile in - cold water. Then wipe them dry, and grate them as finely as possible. Lay - the grated cocoa-nut in well-formed heaps on a large handsome dish. It - will require no cooking. The heaps<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_636" - id="Page_636">[636]</a></span> should be about the circumference of a half - dollar, and must not touch each other. Flatten them down in the middle, so - as to make a hollow in the centre of each heap; and upon this pile some - very nice sweetmeat. Make an excellent whipped cream, well sweetened and - flavored with lemon and wine, and beat it to a stiff froth. Pile some of - this cream high upon each cake over the sweetmeats. If on a supper-table, - you may arrange them in circles round a glass stand. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - FIG MARMALADE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take fine fresh figs that are perfectly ripe, such as can only be obtained - in countries where they are cultivated in abundance. Weigh them, and to - every two pounds of figs allow a pound and a half of sugar, and the grated - yellow rind of a large orange or lemon. Cut up the figs, and put them into - a preserving kettle with the sugar, and orange or lemon rind, adding the - juice. Boil them till the whole is reduced to a thick smooth mass, - frequently stirring it up from the bottom. When done, put it warm into - jars, and cover it closely. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CARRAWAY GINGERBREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Cut up half a pound of fresh butter in a pint of <i>West India</i> - molasses, and warm them together slightly till the butter is quite soft. - Then stir them well, and add gradually a half pound of good brown sugar, a - table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and two<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_637" id="Page_637">[637]</a></span> heaped table-spoonfuls of - ground ginger, or three, if the ginger is not very strong. Sift two pounds - or two quarts of flour. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and stir - them gradually into the mixture, in turn with the flour, and five or six - large table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds, a little at a time. Dissolve a - very small tea-spoonful of pearlash or soda in as much lukewarm water as - will cover it. Then stir it in at the last. Stir all very hard. Transfer - it to a buttered tin pan with straight sides, and bake it in a loaf in a - moderate oven. It will require a great deal of baking. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - SEA-VOYAGE GINGERBREAD.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and cut up in it a pound and a - quarter of fresh butter; rub the butter well into the flour, and then mix - in a pint of <i>West India</i> molasses and a pound of the best brown - sugar. Beat eight eggs till very light. Stir into the beaten egg two - glasses or a jill of brandy. Add also to the egg a tea-cupful of ground - ginger, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, with a tea-spoonful of - soda melted in a little warm water. Wet the flour, &c., with this - mixture till it becomes a soft dough. Sprinkle a little flour on your - pasteboard, and with a broad knife spread portions of the mixture thickly - and smoothly upon it. The thickness must be equal all through; therefore - spread it carefully and evenly, as the dough will be too soft to roll out. - Then with the edge of a tumbler dipped in flour,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_638" id="Page_638">[638]</a></span> cut it out into round - cakes. Have ready square pans, slightly buttered; lay the cakes in them - sufficiently far apart to prevent their running into each other when - baked. Set the pans into a brisk oven, and bake the cakes well, seeing - that they do not burn. - </p> - <p> - You may cut them out small with the lid of a cannister (or something - similar) the usual size of gingerbread nuts. - </p> - <p> - These cakes will keep during a long voyage, and are frequently carried to - sea. Many persons find highly-spiced gingerbread a preventive to - sea-sickness. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EXCELLENT GROUND RICE PUDDING.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take half a pint from a quart of rich milk, and boil in it a large handful - of bitter almonds or peach kernels, blanched and broken up; also half a - dozen blades of mace, keeping the sauce-pan closely covered. When the milk - is highly flavored and reduced to one half the quantity, take it off and - strain it. Stir, gradually, into the remaining pint and a half of milk, - five heaping table-spoonfuls of ground rice; set it over the fire in a - sauce-pan, and let it come to a boil. Then take it off, and while it is - warm, mix in gradually a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and a quarter - of a pound of white sugar. Afterwards, beat eight eggs as light as - possible, and stir them gradually into the mixture. Add some grated - nutmeg. Stir the whole very hard; put it into a deep dish, and set it - immediately into the oven. Keep it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_639" - id="Page_639">[639]</a></span> baking steadily for an hour. It should then - be done. Eat it cool, having sifted sugar over it. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - CHOCOLATE MACAROONS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, by scalding them with - boiling water, till the skins peel off easily. Then throw them into a bowl - of cold water, and let them stand awhile. Take them out and wipe them - separately. Afterwards set them in a warm place to dry thoroughly. Put - them, one at a time, into a marble mortar, and pound them to a smooth - paste, moistening them, as you proceed, with a few drops of rose-water to - prevent their oiling. When you have pounded one or two, take them out of - the mortar with a tea-spoon, and put them into a deep plate beside you, - and continue removing the almonds to the plate till they are all done. - Scrape down, as fine as possible, half a pound of the best chocolate, or - of Baker's prepared cocoa, and mix it thoroughly with the pounded almonds. - Then set the plate in a cool place. Put the whites of eight eggs into a - shallow pan, and beat them to a stiff froth that will stand alone. Have - ready a pound and a half of finely-powdered loaf sugar. Stir it hard into - the beaten white-of-egg, a spoonful at a time. Then stir in, gradually, - the mixture of almond and chocolate, and beat the whole very hard. Drop - the mixture in equal portions upon thin white paper, laid on square tin - pans; smoothing them with a spoon into round cakes about the size of a - half dollar. Dredge the top of each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_640" - id="Page_640">[640]</a></span> lightly with powdered sugar. Set them into - a quick oven, and bake them a light brown. When done, take them off the - paper. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - BREAD FRITTERS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of Zante currants, and having spread them - out on a flat dish, dredge them well with flour. Grate some bread into a - pan, till you have a pint of crumbs. Pour over the grated bread a pint of - boiling milk, into which you have stirred, (as soon as taken from the - fire,) a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg. Cover the pan and let - it stand an hour. Then beat it hard, and add nutmeg, and a quarter of a - pound of powdered white sugar, stirred in gradually, and two - table-spoonfuls of the best brandy. Beat six eggs till very light, and - then stir them by degrees into the mixture. Lastly, add the currants a few - at a time, and beat the whole very hard. It should be a thick batter. If - you find it too thin, add a little flour. Have ready, over the fire, a hot - frying-pan with boiling lard. Put in the batter in large spoonfuls, (so as - not to touch,) and fry the fritters a light brown. Drain them on a - perforated skimmer, or an inverted sieve placed in a deep pan, and send - them to table hot. Eat them with wine, and powdered sugar. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - TO KEEP FRESH BUTTER FOR FRYING STEWING, &c.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take several pounds of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_641" - id="Page_641">[641]</a></span> <i>very best</i> fresh butter. Cut it up in - a large tin sauce-pan, or in any clean cooking vessel lined with tin. Set - it over the fire, and boil and skim it during half an hour. Then pour it - off, carefully, through a funnel into a stone jar, and cover it closely - with a bladder or leather tied down over the lid. The butter having thus - been separated from the salt and sediment, (which will be found remaining - at the bottom of the boiling vessel,) if kept closely covered and set in a - cool place, will continue good for a month, and be found excellent for - frying and stewing, and other culinary purposes. Prepare it thus in May or - June, and you may use it in winter, if living in a place where fresh - butter is scarce at that season. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - EXCELLENT MUTTON SOUP.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Having been accidentally omitted in its proper place, we here insert a - receipt for very fine mutton soup. Try it. If for a large family, take two - necks of mutton of the best quality, and let the butcher disjoint it. To - each pound of meat allow a quart of water. Put it into a soup-pot, with a - slice of ham, which will render the soup sufficiently salt. Boil it - slowly, and skim it well, till the scum ceases to appear. If you have no - ham, season the meat, when you first put it in, with a tea-spoonful of - salt. In the mean time prepare the vegetables, but do not put them in till - the meat has boiled to rags, and all the scum has risen to the surface and - been carefully removed. It is then time to strain out<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_642" id="Page_642">[642]</a></span> the shreds of meat and - bone, return the soup to the pot, and add the vegetables. First, have - ready the deep yellow <i>outsides</i> of three or four carrots grated, and - stir them into the soup to enrich it, and give it a fine color. Next, add - turnips, potatos, parsnips, salsify, celery, (including its green leaves - from the top) and onions that have been already peeled and boiled by - themselves to render them less strong. All the vegetables should be cut - nicely into small pieces of equal size, (as for Soup à la Julienne.) You - may add some boiled beets, handsomely sliced. And (if approved) strew in - at the last a handful of fresh leaves of the marygold flower, which adds a - flavor to some persons very agreeable. Put all these vegetables gradually - into the soup, (those first that require the longest boiling,) and when - they are all <i>quite done</i> the soup is finished. If well made, with a - liberal allowance of meat and vegetables, and well boiled, it will be much - liked—particularly if served as Julienne soup, for company. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - NEW ENGLAND CREAM CHEESE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take a large pan of rich unskimmed milk that has set in the dairy all - night, and is from pasture-fed cows in the summer. Have ready a small - tea-cup of rennet-water, in which a piece of rennet, from four to six - inches square, has been steeping several hours. Stir the rennet-water into - the pan of milk, and set it in a warm place till it forms a firm curd. Tie - up the curd in a clean linen bag, and<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_643" id="Page_643">[643]</a></span> hang it up in the dairy - with a pan under it to receive the droppings, till it drips no longer. - Then transfer the curd to a small cheese mould. Cover it all over with a - clean linen cloth, folded over the sides, and well secured. Put a heavy - weight on the top, so as to press it hard. The wooden vessel in which you - mould cream cheeses, should be a bottomless, broad hoop, about the - circumference of a dinner plate. Set it (before you fill it with the curd) - on a very clean table or large flat dish. Turn it every day for four days, - keeping it covered thickly all over with fresh green grass, frequently - renewed. When done, keep it in a dry cool place, first rubbing the outside - with fresh butter. When <i>once cut</i>, use the whole cheese on that day, - as it may spoil before the next. Send it to the tea-table cut across in - triangular or pie pieces. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - MOLASSES CANDY.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Take three quarts of the best <i>West India</i> molasses—no other - will do. Put it into a thick block-tin kettle, (or a <i>bain-marie</i>) - and stir in a pound and a half of the best and cleanest brown sugar. Boil - slowly and skim it well, (stirring it always after skimming,) and taking - care that it does not burn. Prepare the grated rind and the juice of three - large lemons or oranges, and stir them in after the molasses and sugar - have boiled long enough to become very thick. Continue to boil and stir - till it will boil no longer, and the spoon will no longer move. Try some - in a saucer, and let it get cold. If it is<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_644" id="Page_644">[644]</a></span> brittle, it is done. Then - take it from the fire, and transfer it immediately to shallow square tin - pans, that have been well greased with nice fresh butter or sweet oil. - Spread it evenly, and set it to cool. - </p> - <p> - While boiling, you may add three or four spoonfuls of shell-barks, cracked - clean from their shells, and divided into halves. Or the same quantity of - roasted pea-nuts or ground-nuts. With both nuts and lemon it will be very - good.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_645" id="Page_645">[645]</a></span> - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <h2> - <a name="WORTH_KNOWING" id="WORTH_KNOWING"></a>WORTH KNOWING. - </h2> - <h3 class="subh"> - THE BEST CEMENT FOR JARS.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - Before preserving and pickling time, buy at a druggist's, two ounces of - the clearest and whitest gum tragacanth. Obtain also two grains of - corrosive sublimate, (indispensable to this cement), and having picked the - gum tragacanth clean, and free from dust and dark or discolored particles, - put it with the sublimate into a very clean yellow or white-ware mug that - holds a small quart and has a close-fitting lid belonging to it. Then fill - the vessel more than two-thirds with very clean water, either warm or - cold; and put on the lid. Let it rest till next morning. Then stir it with - an <i>unpainted</i> stick, that will reach quite down to the bottom. - Repeat the stirring frequently through the day, always replacing the lid. - In a few days the cement will have risen to the top of the mug, and have - become a fine, clear, smooth paste, <i>far superior to any other</i>; and, - by means of the corrosive sublimate, it will keep perfectly well to an - indefinite period, if always closely covered, and having no sort of metal - dipped into it. On no account attempt to keep this paste in tin, or even - in silver. Both paste and metal will turn black and become spotted. - Remember this. - </p> - <p> - When going to put away your sweetmeats or pickles, this paste will come - into use, and be found invaluable. It is best to keep all these things in - small jars, as opening a large jar frequently, may<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_646" id="Page_646">[646]</a></span> injure its contents by - letting in the air. In a large family, or where many pickles are eaten, - those in most frequent use may be kept in stone-ware jars, with a wooden - spoon always at hand for taking them out when wanted. On the surface of - every jar of pickles, put one or two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and - then cover the top of the jar closely with a circular piece of bladder or - thin leather. Next cut out a narrow band of the same, and cement it on - with gum tragacanth paste, (made as above), and let it remain till you - open the jar for use. - </p> - <p> - For sweetmeats, have glass or white-ware jars. Lay on the surface of each - a circular paper, cut to fit and dipped in brandy. Next, put on an outside - cover of bladder or thick white paper secured with a band of the same, - coated with tragacanth paste. When this cement is used, the jars will not - be infested with ants or other insects, the corrosive sublimate keeping - them out. - </p> - <p> - This paste should be at hand in every library or office, when wanted for - papers or books. It requires no boiling when made, and is always ready, - and never spoils. For a small quantity, take an ounce of the best gum - tragacanth and a grain of corrosive sublimate. Get a covered white or - yellow-ware mug that holds a pint; such a mug will cost but twelve cents. - Dissolve in less than a pint of water. - </p> - <div class="figcenter"> - <img src="images/squiggle.jpg" width="338" height="55" - alt="decorative break" title="decorative break" /> - </div> - <h3 class="subh"> - A BAIN-MARIE; OR, DOUBLE KETTLE.— - </h3> - <p class="hdin"> - These are most useful and satisfactory utensils,<span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_647" id="Page_647">[647]</a></span> as all who have tried them - can certify. They are to be had of various sizes at the best household - furniture stores, and are made to order by the chief tinsmiths. The French - make great use of the Bain-Marie; which, in some measure, accounts for the - general superiority of their cookery. - </p> - <p> - This utensil, as made in America, is a double kettle of the strongest and - best block-tin. The bottom of the outside kettle is of strong copper or - iron, well tinned, and <i>kept so</i>. The food, however, is all contained - in the inner kettle, which is of tin entirely. After the food is in, - (having with it no water whatever), put on the lid tightly, and through - the tube on the outside, pour into the outer kettle the water that is to - cook it. If it boils away too fast, replenish it with more water poured in - at the tube. - </p> - <p> - If it boils too slowly, quicken it by adding some salt put in at the tube. - Keep the kettle closely covered, except when removing the lid to take off - the scum; and do this quick and seldom. The superfluous steam is all the - time escaping through the top of the tube and through a very small hole in - the lid. Nothing cooked in this manner (with all the water outside) can - possibly burn or scorch. After every skimming, stir the stew down to the - bottom before you replace the lid. To cook in a Bain-Marie, requires a - strong, steady heat, well kept up; and you must begin earlier than in the - common way of stewing. This is an excellent vessel for boiling custards, - blancmanges, marmalades, and many other nice things; as a good<span - class="pagenum"><a name="Page_648" id="Page_648">[648]</a></span> - housewife will soon discover. Also, for making beef tea and other - preparations for invalids. It is well to keep a small one purposely for a - sick room. - </p> - <p> - If from deficiency of sugar, or being kept too warm, or not closely - covered, any of your sweetmeats turn sour, do not hastily throw them away, - but carefully remove the surface, (even if coated with blue mould), add an - additional portion of sugar so as to make them very sweet, and put them - into a Bain-Marie. Fill the outer kettle with <i>hot</i> water, and boil - it till you find the preserves restored to their proper taste. Then put - them up again in jars that have been well scalded, rinsed, and sunned, and - lay brandied paper on the surface of each. - </p> - <p> - Mouldy pickles may be recovered in a similar manner, adding fresh spices - and vinegar before you put them up again. - </p> - <div class="figcenter" style="width: 264px;"> - <img src="images/648.jpg" width="264" height="350" - alt="Bain-Marie; or, Double Kettle. (Pronounced Bine Maree.)" title="" /> - <span class="caption">Bain-Marie; or, Double Kettle. (Pronounced <i>Bine - Maree</i>.)</span> - </div> - <p> - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_649" id="Page_649">[649]</a></span> - </p> - <hr class="c65" /> - <h2> - <a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX. - </h2> - <div> - <p class="indxh"> - A. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - A-la-mode beef, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.<br /> Almond and macaroon - custards, <a href="#Page_486">486</a>.<br /> Almond macaroons, <a - href="#Page_536">536</a>.<br /> Almond pudding, baked, <a href="#Page_474">474</a>.<br /> - Almond pudding, boiled, <a href="#Page_475">475</a>.<br /> Almond sponge - cake, <a href="#Page_524">524</a>.<br /> Almond soup, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.<br /> - Apees, <a href="#Page_532">532</a>.<br /> Apple dumplings, <a - href="#Page_457">457</a>.<br /> Apples, baked whole, <a href="#Page_461">461</a>.<br /> - Apples, bellflower or pippins, <a href="#Page_562">562</a>.<br /> Apple - fritters or quince, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.<br /> Apple jelly, <a - href="#Page_492">492</a>.<br /> Apple pies, (fine) <a href="#Page_479">479</a>.<br /> - Apple pork pie, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.<br /> Apple sauce, <a - href="#Page_338">338</a>.<br /> Apple sauce, baked, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.<br /> - Apple pudding, <a href="#Page_458">458</a>.<br /> Apple water, <a - href="#Page_591">591</a>.<br /> Arrow-root biscuit, <a href="#Page_603">603</a>.<br /> - Artichokes, fried, <a href="#Page_363">363</a>.<br /> Asparagus, new way, - <a href="#Page_371">371</a><br /> Asparagus omelet, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.<br /> - Asparagus oysters, <a href="#Page_372">372</a>.<br /> Asparagus soup, <a - href="#Page_44">44</a>.<br /> Autumn soup, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.<br /> - Aunt Lydia's corn cake, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - B. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Bacon, to prepare, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.<br /> Bacon, to boil, <a - href="#Page_247">247</a>.<br /> Bacon and beans, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.<br /> - Bacon, broiled, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.<br /> Bacon, stewed, <a - href="#Page_250">250</a>.<br /> Baked fish, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.<br /> - Baked soup, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.<br /> Baked tongue, <a - href="#Page_171">171</a>.<br /> Barley water, <a href="#Page_590">590</a>.<br /> - Bananas, fried, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>.<br /> Batter pudding, <a - href="#Page_447">447</a>.<br /> Bean soup, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.<br /> - Beans, (green,) <a href="#Page_379">379</a>.<br /> Beef-a-la-mode, <a - href="#Page_151">151</a>.<br /> Beef bouilli, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.<br /> - Beef, corned, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.<br /> Beef, corned, fried, <a - href="#Page_148">148</a>.<br /> Beef, (French,) <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.<br /> - Beef, corned, stewed, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.<br /> Beef, fresh, - stewed, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.<br /> Beef, dried and smoked, <a - href="#Page_148">148</a>.<br /> Beefs heart, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.<br /> - Beef with mushrooms, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.<br /> Beef with onions, - <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.<br /> Beef with oysters, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.<br /> - Beef gumbo, <a href="#Page_375">375</a>.<br /> Beef patties, <a - href="#Page_161">161</a>.<br /> Beef, spiced, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.<br /> - Beef with potatoes, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_650" id="Page_650">[650]</a></span><br /> Beef, fresh, - (stewed,) <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.<br /> Beef, roasted, <a - href="#Page_138">138</a>.<br /> Beef, (smoked,) stewed, <a - href="#Page_154">154</a>.<br /> Beefsteaks, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.<br /> - Beefsteaks, broiled, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.<br /> Beefsteaks, - fried, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.<br /> Beefsteaks, stewed, <a - href="#Page_144">144</a>.<br /> Beefsteak with oysters, <a - href="#Page_156">156</a>.<br /> Beefsteak pie, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.<br /> - Beefsteak pot-pie, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.<br /> Beefsteak pudding, - <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.<br /> Beefsteaks for invalids, <a - href="#Page_584">584</a>.<br /> Beef tea, <a href="#Page_589">589</a>.<br /> - Beef with tomatos, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.<br /> Beets, <a - href="#Page_387">387</a>.<br /> Beets, baked, <a href="#Page_388">388</a>.<br /> - Bell-peppers, pickled, <a href="#Page_574">574</a>.<br /> Bird dumplings, - <a href="#Page_305">305</a>.<br /> Birds for larding, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>.<br /> - Birds for invalids, <a href="#Page_584">584</a>.<br /> Birds in a grove, - <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.<br /> Birds with mushrooms, <a - href="#Page_303">303</a>.<br /> Biscuit sandwiches, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.<br /> - Bologna sausages, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.<br /> Borders of paste, <a - href="#Page_472">472</a>.<br /> Boned turkey, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.<br /> - Blackfish, and sea-bass, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.<br /> Blancmange, <a - href="#Page_497">497</a>.<br /> Blancmange, carrageen, <a href="#Page_587">587</a>.<br /> - Blancmange, finest, <a href="#Page_499">499</a>.<br /> Bran muffins, <a - href="#Page_615">615</a>.<br /> Brandy green gages, <a href="#Page_557">557</a>.<br /> - Brandy peaches, <a href="#Page_557">557</a>.<br /> Bread, <a - href="#Page_433">433</a>.<br /> Bran bread, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.<br /> - Bread biscuit, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.<br /> Bread cakes, <a - href="#Page_437">437</a>.<br /> Bread, rye, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.<br /> - Bread, home-made, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.<br /> Bread pudding, <a - href="#Page_454">454</a>.<br /> Bread-and-butter pudding, <a - href="#Page_454">454</a>.<br /> Bread, (twist,) <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.<br /> - Buckwheat cakes, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.<br /> Brine for pickling - meat, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.<br /> Broccoli, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.<br /> - Broccoli and eggs, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.<br /> Brown Betty, <a - href="#Page_455">455</a>.<br /> Browning for soups, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>.<br /> - Browned flour, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.<br /> Buns, (Spanish,) <a - href="#Page_525">525</a>.<br /> Butter, (clarified,) <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.<br /> - Butter, (melted,) <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.<br /> Buttered toast, <a - href="#Page_599">599</a>.<br /> Butternuts to pickle, <a href="#Page_578">578</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - C. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Cabbage, boiled, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.<br /> Cabbage boiled an - excellent way, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.<br /> Cabbage, forced, <a - href="#Page_353">353</a>.<br /> Cabbage, fried, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.<br /> - Cabbage soup, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.<br /> Cabbage, red, <a - href="#Page_45">45</a>.<br /> Cale cannon, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.<br /> - Catchup, (mushroom,) <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.<br /> Catchup, - (tomato,) <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.<br /> Catchup, (walnut,) <a - href="#Page_325">325</a>.<br /> Calf's head, stewed, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.<br /> - Calf's feet jelly, <a href="#Page_491">491</a>.<br /> Camp catchup, <a - href="#Page_328">328</a>.<br /> Canvass-back ducks, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.<br /> - Canvass-backs, broiled, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.<br /> Canvass-backs, - (stewed,) <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.<br /> Canvass-backs, (roasted,) <a - href="#Page_281">281</a>.<br /> Carolina punch, <a href="#Page_610">610</a>.<br /> - Carrots, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.<br /> Carrot soup, <a - href="#Page_50">50</a>.<br /> Carrots, stewed, <a href="#Page_368">368</a>.<br /> - Carrageen blancmange, <a href="#Page_587">587</a>.<br /> Cashaw pudding, - <a href="#Page_478">478</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_651" - id="Page_651">[651]</a></span><br /> Catfish, fried, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.<br /> - Cauliflower, boiled, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.<br /> Cauliflower, - fried, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.<br /> Cauliflower macaroni, <a - href="#Page_360">360</a>.<br /> Cauliflower omelet, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.<br /> - Cauliflowers, pickled, <a href="#Page_575">575</a>.<br /> Celery, fried, - <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.<br /> Charlotte, (country,) <a - href="#Page_462">462</a>.<br /> Charlotte, plain, <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.<br /> - Charlotte russe, <a href="#Page_507">507</a>.<br /> Champagne, (pink,) <a - href="#Page_608">608</a>.<br /> Cheese pudding, <a href="#Page_481">481</a>.<br /> - Chestnut soup, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.<br /> Chestnut pork, <a - href="#Page_220">220</a>.<br /> Cherry marmalade, <a href="#Page_550">550</a>.<br /> - Cherries, preserved, <a href="#Page_563">563</a>.<br /> Cherries, - pickled, <a href="#Page_580">580</a>.<br /> Chicken salad, <a - href="#Page_384">384</a>.<br /> Chicken curry, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br /> - Chickens, fricasseed, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.<br /> Chickens, stewed - whole, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.<br /> Chicken broth for the sick, <a - href="#Page_581">581</a>.<br /> Chicken gumbo, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.<br /> - Chicken-pie, <a href="#Page_541">541</a>.<br /> Chicken pot-pie, <a - href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br /> Chicken soup, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.<br /> - Chicken, (tomato,) <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.<br /> Chicken and turkey - patties, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.<br /> Chicken rice pudding, <a - href="#Page_295">295</a>.<br /> Chickens, fried, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.<br /> - Chickens, broiled, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.<br /> Chitterlings, <a - href="#Page_201">201</a>.<br /> Chitterlings, baked, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.<br /> - Chitterlings, fried, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.<br /> Chocolate, <a - href="#Page_597">597</a>.<br /> Chocolate caramel, <a href="#Page_611">611</a>.<br /> - Chocolate custards, <a href="#Page_484">484</a>.<br /> Chocolate - macaroons, <a href="#Page_536">536</a>.<br /> Chowder, fine, <a - href="#Page_88">88</a>.<br /> Chowder, (Yankee,) <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.<br /> - Cinnamon bread, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.<br /> Cinnamon cake, <a - href="#Page_528">528</a>.<br /> Citron melons, preserved, <a - href="#Page_552">552</a>.<br /> Clam chowder, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.<br /> - Clam fritters, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.<br /> Clam pie, <a - href="#Page_121">121</a>.<br /> Clams, scolloped, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.<br /> - Clam soup, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.<br /> Clam soup for invalids, <a - href="#Page_582">582</a>.<br /> Cocoa-nut cake, <a href="#Page_528">528</a>.<br /> - Cocoa-nut jumbles, <a href="#Page_534">534</a>.<br /> Cocoa-nut, - (orange,) <a href="#Page_504">504</a>.<br /> Cocoa-nut pudding, baked, <a - href="#Page_476">476</a>.<br /> Cocoa-nut pudding, boiled, <a - href="#Page_477">477</a>.<br /> Cocoa-nut puffs, <a href="#Page_534">534</a>.<br /> - Cocoa-nut soup, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.<br /> Codfish, (stewed,) <a - href="#Page_103">103</a>.<br /> Codfish, (boiled,) <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.<br /> - Codfish, (fried,) <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.<br /> Codfish, salt, <a - href="#Page_86">86</a>.<br /> Coffee, <a href="#Page_596">596</a>.<br /> - Coloring for sauces, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.<br /> Corn cake, (Aunt - Lydia's,) <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.<br /> Corn soup, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.<br /> - Cottage cheese, <a href="#Page_616">616</a>.<br /> Country captain, <a - href="#Page_299">299</a>.<br /> Country grapes, <a href="#Page_567">567</a>.<br /> - Country plums, <a href="#Page_566">566</a>.<br /> Country potatos, <a - href="#Page_348">348</a>.<br /> Crab-apples, preserved, <a - href="#Page_562">562</a>.<br /> Crabs, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br /> - Crabs, (soft,) <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.<br /> Crab fritters, soft, <a - href="#Page_113">113</a>.<br /> Cranberry sauce, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.<br /> - Cream cakes, <a href="#Page_503">503</a>.<br /> Creamed pine-apple, <a - href="#Page_506">506</a>.<br /> Cream and peaches, <a href="#Page_506">506</a>.<br /> - Creamed strawberries, <a href="#Page_505">505</a>.<br /> Cream tarts, <a - href="#Page_504">504</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_652" - id="Page_652">[652]</a></span><br /> Cross buns, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.<br /> - Crullers, (common,) <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.<br /> Crullers, (soft,) - <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.<br /> Croquettes, (rice,) <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.<br /> - Cucumbers, (to prepare,) <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.<br /> Cucumbers, - stewed, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.<br /> Cucumbers, pickled, <a - href="#Page_576">576</a>.<br /> Cucumber catchup, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.<br /> - Curry balls, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.<br /> Curried eggs, <a - href="#Page_300">300</a>.<br /> Curried chicken, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br /> - Curry powder, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.<br /> Curry powder, (Madras,) - <a href="#Page_333">333</a>.<br /> Custards, baked, <a href="#Page_460">460</a>.<br /> - Custard, boiled, <a href="#Page_461">461</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - D. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Damson pickles, <a href="#Page_580">580</a>.<br /> Damson sauce, <a - href="#Page_342">342</a>.<br /> Dressing for slaw, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.<br /> - Dried apple sauce, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.<br /> Dried peach sauce, - <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.<br /> Dried and smoked beef, <a - href="#Page_148">148</a>.<br /> Doughnuts, <a href="#Page_443">443</a>.<br /> - Dumplings, (apple,) <a href="#Page_457">457</a>.<br /> Dumplings, - (peach,) <a href="#Page_458">458</a>.<br /> Dumplings, (bird,) <a - href="#Page_305">305</a>.<br /> Dumpling, (sausage,) <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.<br /> - Ducks, boiled, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br /> Ducks, fricasseed, <a - href="#Page_280">280</a>.<br /> Ducks with peas, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.<br /> - Ducks, roasted, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.<br /> Duck soup, <a - href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br /> Ducks, (terrapin,) <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.<br /> - Ducks, (canvas-back,) broiled, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.<br /> Ducks, - (canvas-back,) plain, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.<br /> Ducks, - (canvas-back,) roasted, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>.<br /> Ducks, - (canvas-back,) stewed, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - E. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - East indian pickle, <a href="#Page_569">569</a>.<br /> East India sauce - for fish, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.<br /> Egg balls, <a - href="#Page_373">373</a>.<br /> Egg-plants, baked, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>.<br /> - Eggs, to beat, <a href="#Page_615">615</a>.<br /> Eggs, to boil, <a - href="#Page_612">612</a>.<br /> Egg-nogg, <a href="#Page_614">614</a>.<br /> - Egg sauce, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.<br /> Eggs, poached, <a - href="#Page_613">613</a>.<br /> Eggs, scrambled, <a href="#Page_614">614</a>.<br /> - Egg wine, <a href="#Page_591">591</a>.<br /> Ellen Clarke's pudding, <a - href="#Page_603">603</a>.<br /> Epicurean sauce, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - F. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Farina, <a href="#Page_500">500</a>.<br /> Farina blancmange, <a - href="#Page_588">588</a>.<br /> Farina flummery, <a href="#Page_589">589</a>.<br /> - Farina gruel, <a href="#Page_589">589</a>.<br /> Fast-day soup, <a - href="#Page_74">74</a>.<br /> Farmer's rice, <a href="#Page_451">451</a>.<br /> - Fennel sauce, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.<br /> Fig pudding, <a - href="#Page_617">617</a>.<br /> Filet gumbo, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.<br /> - Fish, to clean, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.<br /> Fish, to bake, <a - href="#Page_79">79</a>.<br /> Fish cakes, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.<br /> - Fish, to boil, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.<br /> Fish, to fry, <a - href="#Page_79">79</a>.<br /> Fish, spiced, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.<br /> - Fish soup, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> Fish, to stew, <a - href="#Page_81">81</a>.<br /> Floating island, <a href="#Page_515">515</a>.<br /> - Florendines, <a href="#Page_482">482</a>.<br /> Fillet of pork, <a - href="#Page_225">225</a>.<br /> Fillet of veal, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>. - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_653" id="Page_653">[653]</a></span><br /> - Fowls, boiled, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.<br /> Fowls, pulled, <a - href="#Page_286">286</a>.<br /> Fowls, roasted, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.<br /> - Fowl and oysters, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.<br /> French chicken pie, - <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.<br /> French ham pie, <a href="#Page_616">616</a>.<br /> - French pot-au-feu, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.<br /> French sour crout, <a - href="#Page_354">354</a>.<br /> French stew, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.<br /> - French white soup, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br /> Friday soup, <a - href="#Page_75">75</a>.<br /> Fried oysters, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.<br /> - Fritters, <a href="#Page_448">448</a>.<br /> Fritters, (orange,) <a - href="#Page_449">449</a>.<br /> Fritters, (peach,) <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.<br /> - Fruit charlotte, <a href="#Page_483">483</a>.<br /> Fruit pies, (common,) - <a href="#Page_466">466</a>.<br /> Fruit pot-pies, <a href="#Page_460">460</a>.<br /> - Fruit in syrups, <a href="#Page_552">552</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - G. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Game soup, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>.<br /> Giblet pie, <a - href="#Page_277">277</a>.<br /> Gingerbread, (Lafayette,) <a - href="#Page_538">538</a>.<br /> Gingernuts, <a href="#Page_539">539</a>.<br /> - Golden cake, <a href="#Page_530">530</a>.<br /> Gooseberry fool, <a - href="#Page_463">463</a>.<br /> Gooseberries preserved, <a - href="#Page_565">565</a>.<br /> Gooseberry sauce, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.<br /> - Goose pie, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.<br /> Goose, to roast, <a - href="#Page_274">274</a>.<br /> Gravy sippets, <a href="#Page_584">584</a>.<br /> - Gravy, to make, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.<br /> Green beans, to boil, - <a href="#Page_379">379</a>.<br /> Green gages, to preserve, <a - href="#Page_557">557</a>.<br /> Green lemons or limes, <a href="#Page_555">555</a>.<br /> - Green Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.<br /> Green peas, to boil, - <a href="#Page_378">378</a>.<br /> Green pea soup, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.<br /> - Gruel, <a href="#Page_586">586</a>.<br /> Gumbo, (beef,) <a - href="#Page_375">375</a>.<br /> Gumbo, (filet,) <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.<br /> - Gumbo, (chicken,) <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.<br /> Gum arabic water, <a - href="#Page_590">590</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - H. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Halibut, fried, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.<br /> Halibut, stewed, <a - href="#Page_104">104</a>.<br /> Hams, to cure, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.<br /> - Ham, baked, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.<br /> Ham, boiled, <a - href="#Page_238">238</a>.<br /> Ham, brine for pickling, <a - href="#Page_235">235</a>.<br /> Ham, broiled, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.<br /> - Ham, disguised, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.<br /> Ham, fried, <a - href="#Page_242">242</a>.<br /> Ham, fried, (nice,) <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.<br /> - Ham cake, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.<br /> Ham, (madeira,) <a - href="#Page_240">240</a>.<br /> Ham toast, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.<br /> - Ham omelet, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.<br /> Ham, potted, <a - href="#Page_246">246</a>.<br /> Ham pie, (French,) <a href="#Page_616">616</a>.<br /> - Ham, sliced, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.<br /> Hashed cold meat, <a - href="#Page_193">193</a>.<br /> Hare, coated, <a href="#Page_264">264</a><br /> - Herb teas, <a href="#Page_585">585</a>.<br /> Herb candies, <a - href="#Page_585">585</a>.<br /> Hog's head cheese, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.<br /> - Hominy, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.<br /> Horse-radish, <a - href="#Page_317">317</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - I. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Ice cream, <a href="#Page_510">510</a>.<br /> Icing, (warm,) <a - href="#Page_519">519</a>.<br /> Icing, <a href="#Page_518">518</a>.<br /> - Ice cream cakes, <a href="#Page_632">632</a>.<br /> Ice water, (or - sherbet,) <a href="#Page_513">513</a>.<br /> Iced plum pudding, <a - href="#Page_621">621</a>.<br /> Indian corn, to boil, <a href="#Page_391">391</a>.<br /> - Indian mush, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_654" id="Page_654">[654]</a></span><br /> India pickle, <a - href="#Page_569">569</a>.<br /> Indian pudding, (fine,) <a - href="#Page_428">428</a>.<br /> Italian pork, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.<br /> - Irish stew, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - J. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Jams or marmalade, <a href="#Page_546">546</a>.<br /> Jam, strawberry, <a - href="#Page_549">549</a>.<br /> Jam, raspberry, <a href="#Page_548">548</a>.<br /> - Jellies, <a href="#Page_545">545</a>.<br /> Jelly, apple, <a - href="#Page_492">492</a>.<br /> Jelly, calf's feet, <a href="#Page_491">491</a>.<br /> - Jelly cake, <a href="#Page_535">535</a>.<br /> Jelly, currant, <a - href="#Page_494">494</a>.<br /> Jelly, (or marmalade,) pudding, <a - href="#Page_480">480</a>.<br /> Jelly, orange, <a href="#Page_493">493</a>.<br /> - Jelly, Siberian, <a href="#Page_493">493</a>.<br /> Jelly, (Wine,) <a - href="#Page_496">496</a>.<br /> Jelly water, <a href="#Page_587">587</a>.<br /> - Jumbles, <a href="#Page_534">534</a>.<br /> Jumbles, (cocoa-nut,) <a - href="#Page_534">534</a>.<br /> Junket, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - K. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Kebobbed mutton, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.<br /> Kebobbed veal, <a - href="#Page_197">197</a>.<br /> Kisses, <a href="#Page_537">537</a>.<br /> - Knuckle of veal and bacon, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - L. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Lady cake, <a href="#Page_526">526</a>.<br /> Lady fingers, <a - href="#Page_524">524</a>.<br /> Lafayette gingerbread, <a href="#Page_538">538</a>.<br /> - Lamb, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.<br /> Lamb, larded, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.<br /> - Larded tongue, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.<br /> Lamb chops, stewed, <a - href="#Page_185">185</a>.<br /> Lamb cutlets, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.<br /> - Lamb pie, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.<br /> Lamb, roast, <a - href="#Page_182">182</a>.<br /> Lamb steaks, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.<br /> - Lard, to prepare, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.<br /> Larded liver, <a - href="#Page_199">199</a>.<br /> Lemon cakes, <a href="#Page_522">522</a>.<br /> - Lemon catchup, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.<br /> Lemon custards, <a - href="#Page_485">485</a>.<br /> Lemon pudding, <a href="#Page_473">473</a>.<br /> - Lemon bread pudding, <a href="#Page_468">468</a>.<br /> Lemons or limes, - to preserve green, <a href="#Page_555">555</a>.<br /> Lemon syrups, <a - href="#Page_513">513</a>.<br /> Lemon taffy, <a href="#Page_506">506</a>.<br /> - Lemons or oranges, preserved, <a href="#Page_554">554</a>.<br /> Lettuce - peas, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.<br /> Lettuce peas, plain, <a - href="#Page_368">368</a>.<br /> Lima beans, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.<br /> - Liver, fried, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.<br /> Liver pie, <a - href="#Page_201">201</a>.<br /> Liver pudding, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.<br /> - Liver rissoles, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.<br /> Liver, stewed, <a - href="#Page_200">200</a>.<br /> Lobsters, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.<br /> - Lobster pudding, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br /> Lobster salad, - (plain,) <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.<br /> Lobster sauce, <a - href="#Page_137">137</a>.<br /> Lobster rissoles, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br /> - Lobster salad, (fine,) <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.<br /> Lobster soup, - <a href="#Page_71">71</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - M. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Macaroni, <a href="#Page_600">600</a>.<br /> Macaroni, (sweet,) <a - href="#Page_601">601</a>.<br /> Macaroons, (almond,) <a href="#Page_536">536</a>.<br /> - Macaroons, (ground-nut,) <a href="#Page_628">628</a>.<br /> Macaroons, - (chocolate,) <a href="#Page_536">536</a>.<br /> Mackerel, broiled, <a - href="#Page_96">96</a>.<br /> Mackerel, fried, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.<br /> - Madras curry powder, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_655" id="Page_655">[655]</a></span><br /> Mangoes, (peach,) <a - href="#Page_571">571</a>.<br /> Mangoes, (melon,) <a href="#Page_572">572</a>.<br /> - Marmalade meringues, <a href="#Page_533">533</a>.<br /> Marmalade, - (grape,) <a href="#Page_550">550</a>.<br /> Marmalade, (cherry,) <a - href="#Page_550">550</a>.<br /> Marmalade, (orange,) <a href="#Page_550">550</a>.<br /> - Marmalade, (peach,) <a href="#Page_546">546</a>.<br /> Marmalade, (plum,) - <a href="#Page_548">548</a>.<br /> Marmalade, (pumpkin,) <a - href="#Page_547">547</a>.<br /> Marmalade, (quince,) <a href="#Page_546">546</a>.<br /> - Marmalade, (pine-apple,) <a href="#Page_549">549</a>.<br /> Marmalade, - (tomato,) <a href="#Page_547">547</a>.<br /> Maryland biscuit, <a - href="#Page_432">432</a>.<br /> Marrow pudding, <a href="#Page_501">501</a>.<br /> - Mayonnaise, (green,) <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.<br /> Melongina or - Egg-plant, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>.<br /> Meringue pudding, <a - href="#Page_479">479</a>.<br /> Meringues, (whipped cream,) <a - href="#Page_633">633</a>.<br /> Meat pies, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.<br /> - Milk biscuit, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>.<br /> Milk pottage, <a - href="#Page_451">451</a>.<br /> Milk toast, <a href="#Page_598">598</a>.<br /> - Mince pies, <a href="#Page_488">488</a>.<br /> Mint julep, <a - href="#Page_610">610</a>.<br /> Mint sauce, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.<br /> - Mock turtle soup, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.<br /> Molasses pie, <a - href="#Page_446">446</a>.<br /> Molasses pot-pie, <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.<br /> - Molasses pudding, <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.<br /> Molasses supper, <a - href="#Page_594">594</a>.<br /> Muffins, (soft,) <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.<br /> - Mush, <a href="#Page_412">412</a>.<br /> Mushrooms with beef, <a - href="#Page_160">160</a>.<br /> Mushrooms, baked, <a href="#Page_391">391</a>.<br /> - Mushroom catchup, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.<br /> Mushroom omelet, <a - href="#Page_364">364</a>.<br /> Mushroom sauce, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.<br /> - Mushrooms, pickled, <a href="#Page_572">572</a>.<br /> Mushrooms, stewed, - <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.<br /> Mustard, (French,) <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.<br /> - Mutton, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.<br /> Mutton broth for invalids, <a - href="#Page_583">583</a>.<br /> Mutton, (boiled leg of,) <a - href="#Page_175">175</a>.<br /> Mutton, (boiled loin of,) <a - href="#Page_174">174</a>.<br /> Mutton chops, (broiled,) <a - href="#Page_177">177</a>.<br /> Mutton steaks, (fried,) <a - href="#Page_178">178</a>.<br /> Mutton chops with potatos, <a - href="#Page_179">179</a>.<br /> Mutton chops with tomatos, <a - href="#Page_178">178</a>.<br /> Mutton, (boiled,) (sauce for,) <a - href="#Page_175">175</a>.<br /> Mutton steaks, (stewed,) <a - href="#Page_176">176</a>.<br /> Mutton, kebobbed, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - N. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Nasturtions, pickled, <a href="#Page_581">581</a>.<br /> Nectar, <a - href="#Page_611">611</a>.<br /> Noodle soup, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>.<br /> - New Year's cake, <a href="#Page_605">605</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - O. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Ochras, to boil, <a href="#Page_375">375</a>.<br /> Ochras, dried, <a - href="#Page_374">374</a>.<br /> Omelet, (common,) <a href="#Page_601">601</a>.<br /> - Omelet soufflé, <a href="#Page_501">501</a>.<br /> Omelet of sweetbreads, - <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.<br /> Onion custard, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>.<br /> - Onions, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.<br /> Onion eggs, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.<br /> - Onions, pickled, <a href="#Page_577">577</a>.<br /> Onion sauce, (fine,) - <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.<br /> Onion sauce, (plain,) <a - href="#Page_321">321</a>.<br /> Onions, (to roast,) <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.<br /> - Onions, (to stew,) <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.<br /> Onion soup, <a - href="#Page_47">47</a>.<br /> Ontario cake, <a href="#Page_604">604</a>.<br /> - Orange cake, <a href="#Page_522">522</a>.<br /> Orange or lemon custards, - <a href="#Page_484">484</a>.<br /> Orange cocoa-nut, <a href="#Page_504">504</a>.<br /> - Orange fritters, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_656" id="Page_656">[656]</a></span><br /> Orange jelly, <a - href="#Page_493">493</a>.<br /> Orange marmalade, <a href="#Page_550">550</a>.<br /> - Orange milk, <a href="#Page_551">551</a>.<br /> Orange pudding, baked, <a - href="#Page_476">476</a>.<br /> Orange pudding, boiled, <a - href="#Page_476">476</a>.<br /> Oranges (or lemons,) preserved, <a - href="#Page_554">554</a>.<br /> Orange or lemon syrup, <a href="#Page_513">513</a>.<br /> - Oysters, broiled, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.<br /> Oysters, to choose, - <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.<br /> Oysters, to feed, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.<br /> - Oysters, fried, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.<br /> Oyster fritters, <a - href="#Page_111">111</a>.<br /> Oysters, (French,) <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.<br /> - Oyster loaves, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.<br /> Oyster omelet, <a - href="#Page_118">118</a>.<br /> Oyster patties, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.<br /> - Oysters, pickled, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.<br /> Oysters, pickled for - keeping, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.<br /> Oyster pie, <a - href="#Page_120">120</a>.<br /> Oysters, roasted, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.<br /> - Oysters, scolloped, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.<br /> Oysters, raw, for - the sick, <a href="#Page_584">584</a>.<br /> Oyster soup, <a - href="#Page_73">73</a>.<br /> Oyster soup, for invalids, <a - href="#Page_582">582</a>.<br /> Oysters, stewed, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - P. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Panada, (chicken,) <a href="#Page_589">589</a>.<br /> Panada, (sweet,) <a - href="#Page_590">590</a>.<br /> Pancakes, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.<br /> - Parsley, crimped, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.<br /> Parsley sauce, <a - href="#Page_318">318</a>.<br /> Parsnips, baked, <a href="#Page_387">387</a>.<br /> - Parsnips, boiled, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.<br /> Parsnips, fried, <a - href="#Page_386">386</a>.<br /> Parsnip fritters, <a href="#Page_387">387</a>.<br /> - Parsnip soup, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>.<br /> Partridges, (pear - fashion,) <a href="#Page_301">301</a>.<br /> Partridges, roasted, <a - href="#Page_302">302</a>.<br /> Partridge, plain, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.<br /> - Paste, (excellent plain,) <a href="#Page_467">467</a>.<br /> Paste, - (potato,) <a href="#Page_464">464</a>.<br /> Paste puff, (the best,) <a - href="#Page_469">469</a>.<br /> Paste borders, <a href="#Page_472">472</a>.<br /> - Peas, to boil, <a href="#Page_377">377</a>.<br /> Peas, stewed, <a - href="#Page_377">377</a>.<br /> Pea soup, (green,) <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.<br /> - Pea soup, (split,) <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.<br /> Peas with lettuce, <a - href="#Page_367">367</a>.<br /> Peas, plain lettuce, <a href="#Page_368">368</a>.<br /> - Peaches and cream, <a href="#Page_506">506</a>.<br /> Peach dumplings, <a - href="#Page_458">458</a>.<br /> Peach mangoes, <a href="#Page_571">571</a>.<br /> - Peach marmalade, <a href="#Page_546">546</a>.<br /> Peaches, (brandied,) - <a href="#Page_557">557</a>.<br /> Peaches, pickled, <a href="#Page_570">570</a>.<br /> - Peaches, preserved, <a href="#Page_556">556</a>.<br /> Pears, baked, <a - href="#Page_462">462</a>.<br /> Pepper-pot, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.<br /> - Peppers, (bell,) pickled, <a href="#Page_574">574</a>.<br /> Persimmon - jam, <a href="#Page_567">567</a>.<br /> Pheasants, roasted, <a - href="#Page_302">302</a>.<br /> Pickles, <a href="#Page_568">568</a>.<br /> - Pickled beets with cabbage, <a href="#Page_575">575</a>.<br /> Pickled - bell-peppers, <a href="#Page_574">574</a>.<br /> Pickled button tomatos, - <a href="#Page_581">581</a>.<br /> Pickled butternuts, <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.<br /> - Pickled cauliflowers, <a href="#Page_575">575</a>.<br /> Pickled - cherries, <a href="#Page_580">580</a>.<br /> Pickled cucumbers, <a - href="#Page_576">576</a>.<br /> Pickled cucumbers with onions, <a - href="#Page_578">578</a>.<br /> Pickled damsons, <a href="#Page_580">580</a>.<br /> - Pickles, East India, <a href="#Page_569">569</a>.<br /> Pickled melon - mangoes, <a href="#Page_572">572</a>.<br /> Pickled mushrooms, <a - href="#Page_572">572</a>.<br /> Pickled nasturtions, <a href="#Page_581">581</a>. - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_657" id="Page_657">[657]</a></span><br /> - Pickled onions, <a href="#Page_577">577</a>.<br /> Pickled peaches, <a - href="#Page_570">570</a>.<br /> Pickled peach mangoes, <a href="#Page_571">571</a>.<br /> - Pickled plums, <a href="#Page_579">579</a>.<br /> Pickled shrimps, <a - href="#Page_314">314</a>.<br /> Pickled walnuts, <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.<br /> - Pie, (crust,) very plain, <a href="#Page_464">464</a>.<br /> Pigeon pie, - <a href="#Page_540">540</a>.<br /> Pigeons, roasted, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.<br /> - Pig, to dress, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.<br /> Pig's feet, fried, <a - href="#Page_227">227</a>.<br /> Pine-apple marmalade, <a href="#Page_549">549</a>.<br /> - Pine-apples, preserved, <a href="#Page_553">553</a>.<br /> Pine-apple - tart, <a href="#Page_478">478</a>.<br /> Pink champagne, <a - href="#Page_608">608</a>.<br /> Pink sauce, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.<br /> - Planked shad, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.<br /> Plovers, roasted, <a - href="#Page_307">307</a>.<br /> Plum cake, <a href="#Page_516">516</a>.<br /> - Plums, preserved, <a href="#Page_557">557</a>.<br /> Plums, pickled, <a - href="#Page_579">579</a>.<br /> Plum pudding, (plain,) <a href="#Page_468">468</a>.<br /> - Plum pudding, (fine,) <a href="#Page_486">486</a>.<br /> Poke plant, <a - href="#Page_618">618</a>.<br /> Pot-au-feu, (French,) <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.<br /> - Pot-pies, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.<br /> Pot-pie, (terrapin,) <a - href="#Page_125">125</a>.<br /> Pumpkin, stewed, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.<br /> - Pork, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.<br /> Pork and apples, <a - href="#Page_222">222</a>.<br /> Pork and beans, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.<br /> - Pork with corn and beans, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.<br /> Pork with - pea pudding, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.<br /> Pork, (Italian,) <a - href="#Page_226">226</a>.<br /> Pork, fillet, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.<br /> - Pork olives, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.<br /> Pork pie, (apple,) <a - href="#Page_224">224</a>.<br /> Pork, (apple pot-pie,) <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.<br /> - Pork, to roast, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.<br /> Pork spare-ribs, - roasted, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.<br /> Pork steaks, stewed, <a - href="#Page_222">222</a>.<br /> Pork steaks, fried, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.<br /> - Pork, (sweet potato,) <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.<br /> Portable soup, - <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.<br /> Potatos, boiled, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>.<br /> - Potatos, roasted, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.<br /> Potatos, baked, <a - href="#Page_347">347</a>.<br /> Potato cakes, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.<br /> - Potatos, (country,) <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.<br /> Potatos, fried, <a - href="#Page_348">348</a>.<br /> Potatos, (new,) <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.<br /> - Potatos, mashed, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.<br /> Potato paste, <a - href="#Page_464">464</a>.<br /> Potato pudding, (plain,) <a - href="#Page_602">602</a>.<br /> Potatos, stewed, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.<br /> - Potato beef, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.<br /> Potato mutton chops, <a - href="#Page_179">179</a>.<br /> Potato soup, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.<br /> - Pot-pie, (beefsteak,) <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.<br /> Pot-pie, - (chicken,) <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br /> Poultry and game, <a - href="#Page_265">265</a>.<br /> Pound cake, <a href="#Page_520">520</a>.<br /> - Pudding, (almond,) baked, <a href="#Page_474">474</a>.<br /> Pudding, - (almond,) boiled, <a href="#Page_475">475</a>.<br /> Pudding, (apple,) <a - href="#Page_458">458</a>.<br /> Pudding, (batter,) <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.<br /> - Pudding, (bread,) <a href="#Page_454">454</a>.<br /> Pudding, bread and - butter, <a href="#Page_454">454</a>.<br /> Pudding, Brown Betty, <a - href="#Page_455">455</a>.<br /> Pudding, (cashaw,) <a href="#Page_478">478</a>.<br /> - Pudding, (cheese,) <a href="#Page_481">481</a>.<br /> Pudding, - (cocoa-nut,) <a href="#Page_476">476</a>.<br /> Pudding, (cocoa-nut,) - boiled, <a href="#Page_477">477</a>.<br /> Pudding, (cottage,) <a - href="#Page_632">632</a>.<br /> Pudding, iced plum, <a href="#Page_621">621</a>.<br /> - Pudding, (Columbian,) <a href="#Page_629">629</a>.<br /> Pudding, (Ellen - Clarke's,) <a href="#Page_603">603</a>.<br /> Pudding, lemon bread, <a - href="#Page_468">468</a>.<br /> Pudding, marrow, <a href="#Page_501">501</a>. - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_658" id="Page_658">[658]</a></span><br /> - Pudding, plum, <a href="#Page_486">486</a>.<br /> Pudding, plum, (plain,) - <a href="#Page_468">468</a>.<br /> Pudding, molasses, <a href="#Page_444">444</a>.<br /> - Pudding, rice, (baked,) <a href="#Page_452">452</a>.<br /> Pudding, rice, - (boiled,) <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.<br /> Pudding, orange, <a - href="#Page_476">476</a>.<br /> Pudding, lemon or orange, (boiled,) <a - href="#Page_476">476</a>.<br /> Pudding, sweet potato, <a href="#Page_477">477</a>.<br /> - Pudding, white potato, <a href="#Page_478">478</a>.<br /> Pudding, - meringue, <a href="#Page_479">479</a>.<br /> Pudding, marmalade or jelly, - <a href="#Page_480">480</a>.<br /> Pudding, pumpkin, (fine,) <a - href="#Page_478">478</a>.<br /> Pudding, pumpkin, (Yankee,) <a - href="#Page_390">390</a>.<br /> Pudding, rolled, <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.<br /> - Pumpkin, stewed, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - Q. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Quails, roasted, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.<br /> Queen cake, <a - href="#Page_522">522</a>.<br /> Quince marmalade, <a href="#Page_546">546</a>.<br /> - Quince pies, <a href="#Page_478">478</a>.<br /> Quinces, preserved, <a - href="#Page_560">560</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - R. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Rabbits, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.<br /> Rabbits, coated, <a - href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br /> Rabbits, fricasseed, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.<br /> - Rabbits with onions, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>.<br /> Rabbit pot-pie, - <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.<br /> Rabbits, pulled, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.<br /> - Rabbits, roasted, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.<br /> Raspberry jam, <a - href="#Page_548">548</a>.<br /> Raspberries, preserved, <a - href="#Page_566">566</a>.<br /> Raspberry vinegar, <a href="#Page_599">599</a>.<br /> - Rhubarb tarts, <a href="#Page_618">618</a>.<br /> Rice cups, <a - href="#Page_453">453</a>.<br /> Rice pie, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.<br /> - Rice pudding, baked, <a href="#Page_452">452</a>.<br /> Rice pudding, - boiled, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.<br /> Rennets, <a href="#Page_622">622</a>.<br /> - Ripe peach sauce, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.<br /> Rissole patties, <a - href="#Page_198">198</a>.<br /> Rockfish, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.<br /> - Reed birds, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.<br /> Rolls, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.<br /> - Rolled pudding, <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.<br /> Roman punch, <a - href="#Page_514">514</a>.<br /> Rusk, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.<br /> - Rusks, (dry,) <a href="#Page_439">439</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - S. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Sage and onion sauce, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.<br /> Sago, <a - href="#Page_592">592</a>.<br /> Sago pudding, <a href="#Page_593">593</a>.<br /> - Salad, (chicken,) <a href="#Page_384">384</a>.<br /> Sally Lunn, <a - href="#Page_430">430</a>.<br /> Salsify fritters, <a href="#Page_355">355</a>.<br /> - Salsify oysters, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>.<br /> Salmi of partridges, - <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.<br /> Salmon, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.<br /> - Salmon, baked, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.<br /> Salmon, boiled, <a - href="#Page_91">91</a>.<br /> Salmon, broiled, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.<br /> - Salmon cutlets, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.<br /> Salmon, pickled, <a - href="#Page_95">95</a>.<br /> Salmon, roasted, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.<br /> - Salmon trout, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.<br /> Sandwiches, <a - href="#Page_173">173</a>.<br /> Sausages, (Bologna,) <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.<br /> - Sausage meat, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.<br /> Sausage dumplings, <a - href="#Page_231">231</a>.<br /> Sauce, apple, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.<br /> - Sauce, apple, baked, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.<br /> Sauce, apple, - dried, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.<br /> Sauce, dried peach, <a - href="#Page_341">341</a>.<br /> Sauce, (broccoli,) <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.<br /> - Sauce, (cauliflower,) <a href="#Page_318">318</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_659" id="Page_659">[659]</a></span><br /> Sauce, chestnut, <a - href="#Page_343">343</a>.<br /> Sauce, (celery,) <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.<br /> - Sauce, (clam,) <a href="#Page_315">315</a>.<br /> Sauce, (cranberry,) <a - href="#Page_337">337</a>.<br /> Sauce, (damson,) <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.<br /> - Sauce, (egg,) <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.<br /> Sauce, (fennel,) <a - href="#Page_319">319</a>.<br /> Sauce, (gooseberry,) <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.<br /> - Sauce, (lobster,) <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.<br /> - Sauce, mint, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.<br /> Sauce, mushroom, <a - href="#Page_321">321</a>.<br /> Sauce, (nasturtion,) <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.<br /> - Sauce, (onion,) plain, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.<br /> Sauce, (onion,) - fine, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.<br /> Sauce, (onion and sage,) <a - href="#Page_319">319</a>.<br /> Sauce, (oyster,) <a href="#Page_315">315</a>.<br /> - Sauce, (parsley,) <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.<br /> Sauce, pea-nut, <a - href="#Page_343">343</a>.<br /> Sauce, (peach,) ripe, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.<br /> - Sauce, (prune,) <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.<br /> Sauce, (pink,) <a - href="#Page_334">334</a>.<br /> Sauce, (pudding,) fine, <a - href="#Page_335">335</a>.<br /> Sauce, (pudding,) plain, <a - href="#Page_336">336</a>.<br /> Sauce, Robert, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.<br /> - Sauce, (shrimp,) <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.<br /> Sauce, (vanilla,) <a - href="#Page_336">336</a>.<br /> Sauce, (wine,) <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.<br /> - Sausage dumplings, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.<br /> Sausage and veal - pie, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.<br /> Scolloped tomatos, <a - href="#Page_365">365</a>.<br /> Scotch cake, <a href="#Page_535">535</a>.<br /> - Seabass with tomatos, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.<br /> Sea-coast pie, - <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.<br /> Shad, to keep without corning, <a - href="#Page_105">105</a>.<br /> Shad, planked, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.<br /> - Shells, <a href="#Page_471">471</a>.<br /> Sherry cobbler, <a - href="#Page_609">609</a>.<br /> Short cake, <a href="#Page_427">427</a>.<br /> - Shrimps, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.<br /> Siberian jelly, <a - href="#Page_493">493</a>.<br /> Silver cake, <a href="#Page_531">531</a>.<br /> - Smelts, fried, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.<br /> Smelts for invalids, <a - href="#Page_594">594</a>.<br /> Soft crabs, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.<br /> - Soft crullers, <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.<br /> Soft muffins, <a - href="#Page_429">429</a>.<br /> Soufflé, (omelet,) <a href="#Page_501">501</a>.<br /> - Soups, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.<br /> Soup, almond, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.<br /> - Soup, asparagus, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.<br /> Soup, autumn, <a - href="#Page_61">61</a>.<br /> Soup, baked, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.<br /> - Soup, bean, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.<br /> Soup, (cabbage,) <a - href="#Page_45">45</a>.<br /> Soup, red cabbage, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.<br /> - Soup, fine cabbage, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.<br /> Soup, cauliflower, - <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.<br /> Soup, clam, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.<br /> - Soup, cocoa-nut, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.<br /> Soup, crab, <a - href="#Page_72">72</a>.<br /> Soup, corn, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.<br /> - Soup, carrot, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>.<br /> Soup, chestnut, <a - href="#Page_50">50</a>.<br /> Soup, chicken, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.<br /> - Soup, duck, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br /> Soup, fast-day, <a - href="#Page_74">74</a>.<br /> Soup, fish, <a href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> - Soup, French white, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br /> Soup, Friday, <a - href="#Page_75">75</a>.<br /> Soup, game, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>.<br /> - Soup, green peas, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.<br /> Soup, lobster, <a - href="#Page_71">71</a>.<br /> Soup, mock turtle, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.<br /> - Soup, mushroom, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.<br /> Soup, noodle, <a - href="#Page_54">54</a>.<br /> Soup, onion, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.<br /> - Soup, oyster, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.<br /> Soup, parsnip, <a - href="#Page_49">49</a>.<br /> Soup, pea, green, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>. - <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_660" id="Page_660">[660]</a></span><br /> - Soup, peas, split, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.<br /> Soup, pepper-pot, <a - href="#Page_53">53</a>.<br /> Soup, portable, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.<br /> - Soup, pot-au-feu, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.<br /> Soup, potato, <a - href="#Page_50">50</a>.<br /> Soup, spring, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.<br /> - Soup, summer, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.<br /> Soup, squatters, <a - href="#Page_68">68</a>.<br /> Soup, tomato, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.<br /> - Soup, family tomato, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.<br /> Soup, fine tomato, - <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.<br /> Soup, turnip, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>.<br /> - Soup, vegetable, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.<br /> Soup, venison, <a - href="#Page_39">39</a>.<br /> Soup, winter, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.<br /> - Soup, wild duck, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>.<br /> Southern stew, <a - href="#Page_196">196</a>.<br /> Sour crout, (French,) <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.<br /> - Soufflé pudding, <a href="#Page_620">620</a>.<br /> Spanish buns, <a - href="#Page_525">525</a>.<br /> Spinach, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.<br /> - Sponge cake, <a href="#Page_523">523</a>.<br /> Squashes or cymlings, <a - href="#Page_388">388</a>.<br /> Stewed smoked beef, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.<br /> - Stewed calf's head, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.<br /> Stewed peas, <a - href="#Page_366">366</a>.<br /> Stewed pumpkin, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.<br /> - Store sauces, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>.<br /> Strawberry jam, <a - href="#Page_549">549</a>.<br /> Strawberries, preserved, <a - href="#Page_563">563</a>.<br /> Strawberries in wine, <a href="#Page_564">564</a>.<br /> - Strawberry wine, <a href="#Page_564">564</a>.<br /> Sweetbreads, baked, - <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.<br /> Sweetbread croquettes, <a - href="#Page_210">210</a>.<br /> Sweetbreads, fricasseed, <a - href="#Page_210">210</a>.<br /> Sweetbreads with cauliflower, <a - href="#Page_212">212</a>.<br /> Sweetbread omelet, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.<br /> - Sweetbreads with oysters, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.<br /> Sweetbreads, - to prepare, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.<br /> Sweetbreads for invalids, - <a href="#Page_593">593</a>.<br /> Sweetbread pies, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.<br /> - Sweetbreads, stewed, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.<br /> Sweetbreads with - tomatos, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.<br /> Sweetmeats, <a - href="#Page_543">543</a>.<br /> Sweet potatos, boiled, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.<br /> - Sweet potatos, baked, <a href="#Page_381">381</a>.<br /> Sweet potatos, - mashed, <a href="#Page_381">381</a>.<br /> Sweet potatos, stewed, <a - href="#Page_381">381</a>.<br /> Sweet potato pudding, <a href="#Page_477">477</a>.<br /> - Sweet potato cake, <a href="#Page_529">529</a>.<br /> Sweet potatos, - sweetened, <a href="#Page_455">455</a>.<br /> Sunderlands, <a - href="#Page_503">503</a>.<br /> Sydney Smith's salad dressing, <a - href="#Page_382">382</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - T. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Taffy, (lemon,) <a href="#Page_506">506</a>.<br /> Tamarind-water, <a - href="#Page_591">591</a>.<br /> Tapioca, <a href="#Page_592">592</a>.<br /> - Tarragon sauce, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.<br /> Tarragon vinegar, <a - href="#Page_328">328</a>.<br /> Tea, <a href="#Page_595">595</a>.<br /> - Thatched house pie, <a href="#Page_304">304</a>.<br /> Terrapins, <a - href="#Page_122">122</a>.<br /> Terrapins, dressed a new way, <a - href="#Page_124">124</a>.<br /> Terrapin pot-pie, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.<br /> - Toast and water, <a href="#Page_586">586</a>.<br /> Toast, buttered, <a - href="#Page_599">599</a>.<br /> Toast, (milk,) <a href="#Page_598">598</a>.<br /> - Tomato catchup, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.<br /> Tomato paste, <a - href="#Page_374">374</a>.<br /> Tomatos, pickled, <a href="#Page_581">581</a>.<br /> - Tomatos, preserved green, <a href="#Page_559">559</a>.<br /> Tomatos, - preserved, <a href="#Page_558">558</a>.<br /> Tomatos with sea-bass, <a - href="#Page_101">101</a>.<br /> Tomato soup, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.<br /> - Tomato soup, (fine,) <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.<br /> Tomato soup, - (family,) <a href="#Page_40">40</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a - name="Page_661" id="Page_661">[661]</a></span><br /> Tomato sweetbreads, - <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.<br /> Tongues, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.<br /> - Tongue, baked, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.<br /> Tongue, larded, <a - href="#Page_172">172</a>.<br /> Tongue toast, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.<br /> - Trifle, <a href="#Page_496">496</a>.<br /> Tripe, to boil, <a - href="#Page_167">167</a>.<br /> Tripe, to fry, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.<br /> - Tripe curry, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.<br /> Trout, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.<br /> - Trout, baked, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.<br /> Trout, stewed, <a - href="#Page_85">85</a>.<br /> Trout with cream, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.<br /> - Turbot, baked, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.<br /> Turbot, boiled, <a - href="#Page_99">99</a>.<br /> Turkey, boiled, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.<br /> - Turkey, roasted, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.<br /> Turkey with oysters, - <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.<br /> Turkey, boned, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.<br /> - Turnips, boiled, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.<br /> Turnip soup, <a - href="#Page_48">48</a>.<br /> Turtle, to dress, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.<br /> - Turtle pastry, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - V. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Vanilla custards, <a href="#Page_484">484</a>.<br /> Vanilla sauce, <a - href="#Page_336">336</a>.<br /> Vanilla syrup, <a href="#Page_513">513</a>.<br /> - Veal, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.<br /> Veal a-la-mode, <a - href="#Page_191">191</a>.<br /> Veal and bacon, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.<br /> - Veal broth for the sick, <a href="#Page_583">583</a>.<br /> Veal cutlets, - <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.<br /> Veal cutlets, in papers, <a - href="#Page_194">194</a>.<br /> Veal fillet, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.<br /> - Veal fritters, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.<br /> Veal kebobbed, <a - href="#Page_197">197</a>.<br /> Veal, (knuckle,) with bacon, <a - href="#Page_196">196</a>.<br /> Veal, hashed, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.<br /> - Veal loaf, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.<br /> Veal, minced, <a - href="#Page_205">205</a>.<br /> Veal pie, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.<br /> - Veal olives, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.<br /> Veal with oysters, <a - href="#Page_206">206</a>.<br /> Veal rissoles, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.<br /> - Veal steaks, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>.<br /> Veal and sausage pie, <a - href="#Page_232">232</a>.<br /> Veal, (loin of,) roast, <a - href="#Page_189">189</a>.<br /> Veal, southern stew, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.<br /> - Veal, (terrapin,) <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.<br /> Vegetables, <a - href="#Page_343">343</a>.<br /> Vegetable soup, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>.<br /> - Venison, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.<br /> Venison ham, <a - href="#Page_259">259</a>.<br /> Venison, hashed, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.<br /> - Venison pie, (fine,) <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.<br /> Venison pie, - (plain,) <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.<br /> Venison pot-pie, <a - href="#Page_258">258</a>.<br /> Venison steaks, (broiled,) <a - href="#Page_253">253</a>.<br /> Venison, stewed, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.<br /> - Venison haunch, (roasted,) <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.<br /> Venison - soup, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.<br /> Vinegar, <a href="#Page_607">607</a>.<br /> - Vinegar, (raspberry,) <a href="#Page_599">599</a>.<br /> Vol-au-vent, <a - href="#Page_619">619</a>.<br /> Vol-au-vent, (sweet,) <a href="#Page_620">620</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - W. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Waffles, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.<br /> Walnut catchup, <a - href="#Page_325">325</a>.<br /> Walnuts, pickled, <a href="#Page_578">578</a>.<br /> - Washington pudding, <a href="#Page_630">630</a>.<br /> Warm icing, <a - href="#Page_519">519</a>.<br /> West India cake, <a href="#Page_529">529</a>.<br /> - Whey, <a href="#Page_591">591</a>.<br /> White thickening, <a - href="#Page_311">311</a>.<br /> White potato pudding, <a href="#Page_478">478</a>.<br /> - Wine jelly, <a href="#Page_496">496</a>.<br /> Wine sauce, <a - href="#Page_334">334</a>. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_662" - id="Page_662">[662]</a></span><br /> Wine, (strawberry,) <a - href="#Page_564">564</a>.<br /> Winter butter, (to make,) <a - href="#Page_624">624</a>.<br /> Winter soup, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.<br /> - Woodcocks or snipes, to roast, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>. - </p> - <p class="indxh"> - Y. - </p> - <p class="indxe"> - Yankee chowder, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.<br /> Yankee pumpkin pudding, - <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.<br /> Yeast, (good,) <a href="#Page_605">605</a>.<br /> - Yeast powders, <a href="#Page_606">606</a>. - </p> - </div> - <p class="center"> - <b>THE END.</b> - </p> - <div class="figcenter1"> - <img src="images/chsquig.jpg" width="312" height="44" - alt="decorative chapter break" title="decorative chapter break" /> - </div> - <div class="footnotes"> - <h2 class="endt"> - <a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a>FOOTNOTES: - </h2> - <div class="footnote"> - <p class="noind"> - <a name="Footnote_A" id="Footnote_A"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A"><span - class="label">[A]</span></a> In buying calves' feet always get those - that are singed, not skinned. Much of the glutinous or jelly property - resides in the skin. - </p> - </div> - <div class="footnote"> - <p class="noind"> - <a name="Footnote_B" id="Footnote_B"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B"><span - class="label">[B]</span></a> To make this vinegar—half fill a - bottle with tarragon leaves, and fill it quite up with the best cider - vinegar. Cork it tightly, and do not remove the tarragon, but let it - remain always at the bottom. The flavor is very fine. - </p> - </div> - <div class="footnote"> - <p class="noind"> - <a name="Footnote_C" id="Footnote_C"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C"><span - class="label">[C]</span></a> The herbs summer savory and thyme (like - the spices cloves and allspice) are now seldom used in good cookery. - </p> - </div> - <div class="footnote"> - <p class="noind"> - <a name="Footnote_D" id="Footnote_D"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D"><span - class="label">[D]</span></a> Pronounced Fee<i>lay</i>. - </p> - </div> - <div class="footnote"> - <p class="noind"> - <a name="Footnote_E" id="Footnote_E"></a><a href="#FNanchor_E"><span - class="label">[E]</span></a> The butter and sugar sauce is very nice - flavored and colored with the juice of strawberries or raspberries. - </p> - </div> - </div> - <hr class="c65" /> - <div class="tnote"> - <h2 class="endt"> - Transcriber's Notes: - </h2> - <ul class="ulbullet"> - <li> - Some minor obvious typographical errors have been corrected silently. - </li> - <li> - Missing page numbers are attributed to blank pages in the original - text. - </li> - </ul> - <p class="tnh"> - Corrections made appear in [square brackets]: - </p> - <ul class="ulbullet"> - <li> - <a href="#Page_20">Pg. 20:</a> "From the Pennslyvania [replaced with - "Pennsylvania"]" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_65">Pg. 65:</a> "his excellent pot a [replaced with - "au"] feu" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_146">Pg. 146:</a> "aid [replaced with "laid"] it a - while in cold" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_201">Pg. 201:</a> "for any thing that has ham [added - "in"] it," - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_202">Pg. 202:</a> "Taragon [replaced with "Tarragon"] - vinegar is best." - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_293">Pg. 293:</a> "a dish of beiled [replaced with - "boiled"] rice to be eaten" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_338">Pg. 338:</a> "looks very meanly--and thstes - [replaced with "tastes"] so." - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_348">Pg. 348:</a> "beat them with a wooden spoon to - reder [replaced with "render"] them very light." - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_464">Pg. 464:</a> "If you have a coo [last letter cut - off, replaced with "cool"] hand," - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_493">Pg. 493:</a> "loosened by wrapping round their - ousides [replaced with "outsides"] cloths" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_496">Pg. 496:</a> "either port, madeira, or chamaigne - [replaced with "champagne"]" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_496">Pg. 496:</a> "except as some exhiliration - [replaced with "exhilaration"]" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_536">Pg. 536:</a> "Ground-nut macaroon [replaced with - "macaroons"] are made in the same manner." - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_563">Pg. 563:</a> "stirring down to the bottom after - evey [replaced with "every"] skimming," - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_575">Pg. 575:</a> "Brocoli [replaced with "Broccoli"] - is done in the same manner" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_583">Pg. 583:</a> "as soon as it simmers, [deleted - comma] well [added comma] take it off" - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_620">Pg. 620:</a> "beat and stir the soaked rusk very - had [replaced with "hard"]" - </li> - <li> - Marjoram, marjoran (<a href="#Page_357">Pg. 357</a>) and majoram (Pp. - <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a - href="#Page_602">602</a>) are used in the text, these have all been - standardised to "marjoram" as it was used in the majority. - </li> - </ul> - <p class="tnh"> - The following <a href="#INDEX">index entries</a> were corrected - (corrections listed below in square brackets): - </p> - <ul class="ulbullet"> - <li> - Almond and macaroon custards, 484 [486] - </li> - <li> - Almond soup, 53 [58] - </li> - <li> - Arrow-root biscuit, 303. [603] - </li> - <li> - Beef, corned, fried, 143. [148] - </li> - <li> - Bird dumplings, 505. [305] - </li> - <li> - Birds for invalids, 384. [584] - </li> - <li> - Boned turkey, 279. [271] - </li> - <li> - Cheese pudding, 431. [481] - </li> - <li> - Chocolate, 527. [597] - </li> - <li> - Cinnamon cake, 440. [528] - </li> - <li> - Crab fritters, soft, 213. [113] - </li> - <li> - Crullers, (soft,) 422. [442] - </li> - <li> - Curry balls, 273. [373] - </li> - <li> - Doughnuts, 442. [443] - </li> - <li> - Eggs, scrambled, 612. [614] - </li> - <li> - Ellen Clarke's pudding, 303. [603] - </li> - <li> - Farino [Farina] flummery, 589. - </li> - <li> - French ham pie, 516. [616] - </li> - <li> - Gravy sippets, 584. [put in correct alphabetical order] - </li> - <li> - Gravy, to make, 223. [323] - </li> - <li> - Halibut, fried, 98. [97] - </li> - <li> - Ham, broiled, 243. [241] - </li> - <li> - Ice water, (or sherbet,) 523. [513] - </li> - <li> - Indian corn, to boil, 321. [391] - </li> - <li> - India pickle, 269. [569] - </li> - <li> - Indian pudding, (fine,) 428. [incorrect page number, unable to locate] - </li> - <li> - Jam, raspberry, 549. [548] - </li> - <li> - Jelly, (or marmalade,) pudding, 431. [480] - </li> - <li> - Lamb pie, 189. [187] - </li> - <li> - Lemon custards, 484. [485] - </li> - <li> - Lemon syrups, 522. [513] - </li> - <li> - Meringue pudding, 480. [479] - </li> - <li> - Mint julep, 608. [610] - </li> - <li> - Mutton chops, (broiled,) 171. [177] - </li> - <li> - Orange or lemon syrup, 523. [513] - </li> - <li> - Pea soup, (green,) 42. [41] - </li> - <li> - Pork with pea pudding, 280. [230] - </li> - <li> - Pork steaks, fried, 228. [223] - </li> - <li> - Pudding, (apple,) 558. [458] - </li> - <li> - Pudding, (cottage,) 582. [632] - </li> - <li> - Pudding, (Ellen Clarke's,) 303. [603] - </li> - <li> - Pudding, lemon or orange, (boiled,) 426. [476] - </li> - <li> - Pudding, meringue, 480. [479] - </li> - <li> - Pudding, plum, (plain,) 469. [468] - </li> - <li> - Pudding, white potato, 476. [478] - </li> - <li> - Pudding, marmalade or jelly, 431. [480] - </li> - <li> - Quince pies, 479. [478] - </li> - <li> - Raspberry vinegar, 509. [599] - </li> - <li> - Rice pudding, baked, 442. [452] - </li> - <li> - Rice pudding, boiled, 443. [453] - </li> - <li> - Rissole patties, 198. [incorrect page number, unable to locate] - </li> - <li> - Sauce, chestnut, 348. [343] - </li> - <li> - Sauce, (gooseberry,) 389. [339] - </li> - <li> - Sauce, (lobster,) 187 [137], 313. - </li> - <li> - Sauce, pea-nut, 348. [343] - </li> - <li> - Sausage and veal pie, 282. [232] - </li> - <li> - Soufflé, (omelet,) 591. [501] - </li> - <li> - Soup, red cabbage, 46. [45] - </li> - <li> - Soup, corn, 88. [38] - </li> - <li> - Soup, oyster, 78. [73] - </li> - <li> - Soup, pea, green, 42. [41] - </li> - <li> - Soup, peas, split, 48. [43] - </li> - <li> - Soup, pepper-pot, 58. [53] - </li> - <li> - Soup, vegetable, 68. [63] - </li> - <li> - Stewed smoked beef, 145. [149] - </li> - <li> - Stewed calf's head, 206. [205] - </li> - <li> - Sweetbreads for invalids, 598. [593] - </li> - <li> - Sweet potatos, stewed, 358. [381] - </li> - <li> - Sweet potato cake, 528. [529] - </li> - <li> - Tarragon sauce, 223. [323] - </li> - <li> - Tomatos, pickled, 211. [581] - </li> - <li> - Tomatos with sea-bass, 365. [101] - </li> - <li> - Tomato soup, 89. [39] - </li> - <li> - Tongue toast, 178. [172] - </li> - <li> - Turtle, to dress, 628. [128] - </li> - <li> - Vanilla custards, 485. [484] - </li> - <li> - Vanilla syrup, 523. [513] - </li> - <li> - Vinegar, (raspberry,) 509. [599] - </li> - <li> - White potato pudding, 78. [478] - </li> - <li> - Yankee pumpkin pudding, [390]. - </li> - </ul> - <p class="tnh"> - Not changed: - </p> - <ul class="ulbullet"> - <li> - Some entries in the index are not in alphabetical order. - </li> - <li> - Inconsistencies in word hyphenation, for example: backbone and - back-bone, table-spoonful and tablespoonful. - </li> - <li> - Inconsistencies in section title punctuation. - </li> - <li> - All French spelling. - </li> - <li> - <a href="#Page_574">Pg. 574</a>: "Your may green bell-peppers in the - usual way, with vine leaves or cabbage leaves." [unsure as to the true - meaning] - </li> - </ul> - <p class="tnh"> - Variant spellings left unchanged: - </p> - <ul class="ulbullet"> - <li> - canvas-back, canvass-back - </li> - <li> - Ellen Clarke's pudding, Ellen Clark's pudding - </li> - <li> - inclose, enclose - </li> - <li> - Indian meal, indian meal - </li> - <li> - macaroni, maccaroni - </li> - <li> - marigold, marygold - </li> - <li> - panada, panade - </li> - <li> - potato, potatoe - </li> - <li> - rince, rinse - </li> - <li> - trevet, trivet - </li> - </ul> - </div> -<pre xml:space="preserve"> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, by Eliza Leslie - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - -***** This file should be named 40943-h.htm or 40943-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/9/4/40943/ - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book - -Author: Eliza Leslie - -Release Date: October 5, 2012 [EBook #40943] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - - - - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY BOOK. - - One Volume, 652 pages, bound. Price $1.25. - - -T. B. Peterson, No. 102 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, has just -published MISS LESLIE'S "NEW COOKERY BOOK." It comprises new and -approved methods of preparing all kinds of Soups, Fish, Oysters, Beef, -Mutton, Veal, Pork, Venison, Ham and Bacon, Poultry and Game, Terrapins, -Turtle, Vegetables, Sauces, Bread, Pickles, Sweetmeats, Plain Cakes, -Fine Cakes, Pies, Plain Desserts, Fine Desserts, Preparations for the -Sick, Puddings, Confectionery, Rice, Indian Meal Preparations of all -kinds, Miscellaneous Receipts, etc. etc. Also, lists of all articles in -season suited to go together for breakfasts, dinners, and suppers, to -suit large or small families, and much useful information and many -miscellaneous subjects connected with general housewifery. - -This work will have a very extensive sale, and many thousand copies will -be sold, as all persons that have had Miss Leslie's former works, should -get this at once, as _all the receipts in this book are new_, and have -been fully tried and tested by the author since the publication of her -former books, _and none of them whatever are contained in any other work -but this_. It is the most complete Cook Book published in the world; and -also the latest and best, as in addition to Cookery of all kinds and -descriptions, its receipts for making cakes and confectionery are -unequalled by any other work extant. - -This new, excellent, and valuable Cook Book is published by T. B. -Peterson, under the title of "MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK," and is -entirely different from any other work on similar subjects, under any -other names, by the same author. It is an elegantly printed duodecimo -volume, of 652 pages; and in it there will be found _hundreds of -Receipts_--all useful--some ornamental--and all invaluable to every -lady, miss, or family in the world. - - -Read what the Editors of the Leading Newspapers say of it. - -_From the Philadelphia Dollar Newspaper._ - - "This is a large, well-bound volume of near seven hundred - pages, and includes in it hundreds of receipts never before - published in any of Miss Leslie's other works, accompanied by a - well-arranged index, by which any desired receipt may be turned - to at once. The receipts are for cooking all kinds of meats, - poultry, game, pies, &c., with directions for confectionery, - ices, and preserves. It is entirely different from any former - work by Miss Leslie, and contains new and fresh accessions of - useful knowledge. The merit of these receipts is, that they - have all been tried, and therefore can be recommended - conscientiously. Miss Leslie has acquired great reputation - among housekeepers for the excellence of her works on cookery, - and this volume will doubtless enhance it. _It is the best book - on cookery that we know of_, and while it will be useful to - matrons, to young housewives we should think it quite - indispensable. By the aid of this book, the young and - inexperienced are brought nearly on a footing with those who - have seen service in the culinary department, and by having it - at hand are rendered tolerably independent of _help_, which - sometimes becomes very refractory. The best regulated families - are sometimes taken a little by surprise by the untimely - stepping in of a friend to dinner--to such, Miss Leslie is the - friend indeed, ready as her book is with instructions for the - hasty production of various substitutes for meals requiring - timely and elaborate preparation." - - -_From the Philadelphia Daily News._ - - "To the housekeeper, the name of Miss Leslie is a guaranty that - what comes from her hand is not only orthodox, but good; and to - the young wife about to enter upon the untried scenes of - catering for a family, _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_ may be - termed a blessing. It presents receipts, (and practical ones - too,) for preparing and cooking all kinds of soups, fish, - oysters, meats, game, cakes, pastry, and indeed everything - which enters into the economy of housekeeping. Their - recommendations are that they are all practical, and the novice - of the culinary art may enter upon her important duties with - '_Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_' by her side, with perfect - confidence that the 'soup' will not be spoiled, and that the - dinner will be what is designed. How many disappointments could - be avoided, how many domestic difficulties prevented, and how - many husbands made happy, instead of miserable, by the use of - this '_vade mecum_,' we shall not pretend to say; but as we - have a sincere regard for every lady who reads the _News_, our - advice to them all is, by all means to buy _Miss Leslie's New - Cookery Book_. Mr. Peterson has done admirably in getting up - this work: it is handsomely and substantially bound in cloth, - gilt, and does credit to his business skill; the low price at - which the work is sold, when we take the size of it into - consideration, One Dollar and Twenty-five cents only, will - doubtless give it an immense sale." - - -_From the Philadelphia Saturday Courier._ - - "With such a book as _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_, - published by Mr. Peterson, it is inconceivable what a vast - extent of palate is destined to be astonished, and what a - gastronomic multitude is to be made happy, by the delicious - delicacies and substantial dishes so abundantly provided. Miss - Leslie has in previous works shown how great an adept she has - been in all culinary matters, and in all that relates to the - comforts and the social enjoyment of the table around which - cluster the good things of life. Literature is very good in its - way; but such dishes as Miss Leslie gives a foretaste of, come - up to a more delicious standard. Her authorship is exquisite, - and is destined to diffuse the very essence of good taste among - the fortunate people who sit down to good dinners and suppers, - not one of whom will rise from the table without a blessing on - _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_. And every taste is sure to be - pleased, for all the receipts in this book are new, and to be - found nowhere else, _and it is the best Cook Book ever - published_--one which, with its hundreds of receipts, ought to - be in the hands of every woman who has the slightest - appreciation of convenience, comfort and economy." - - -_From the Philadelphia Daily Sun._ - - "About one thousand new receipts, never before printed, appear - in this work, all of which have been tried before they are - recommended by the author. All kinds of cooking and pastry; - rules for the preparation of dinners, breakfasts, and suppers; - appropriate dishes for every meal; and a vast quantity of other - useful information, are embraced in the book. It is very - comprehensive, and is furnished with an index for the use of - the housewife. By the aid of Miss Leslie's peculiar happy - talent in giving culinary directions, our girls can acquire a - branch of useful information which is generally sadly neglected - in their education, and thus become fitted for their duties as - wives. One great advantage in _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_, - is the economy which it teaches in the management of a - household, as regards the preparations for the table. Peterson - has done this book up in beautiful style, and it will be sent - to any part of the Union, postage paid, upon the receipt of One - Dollar and Twenty-five Cents. Those who know how much of the - happiness of home depends upon well-cooked viands, neatly - served up, will thank the accomplished authoress for this - valuable contribution to domestic science." - - -_From the Philadelphia Saturday Evening Gazette._ - - "Miss Leslie's 'New Receipts for Cooking' is perhaps better - known than any similar collection of receipts. The very elegant - volume before us, entitled '_Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_,' - is designed as a sequel and continuation to it, and should be - its companion in every family, as the receipts are all new, and - in no instance the same, even when their titles are similar. It - contains directions for plain and fancy cooking, preserving, - pickling; and commencing with soups, gives entirely new - receipts for every course of an excellent dinner, to the - jellies and confectionery of the dessert. Our readers are not - strangers to the accuracy and minuteness of Miss Leslie's - receipts, as, since the first number of the Gazette, she has - contributed to our housekeepers' department. The new receipts - in this volume are admirable. Many of them are modified from - French sources, though foreign terms and designations are - avoided. The publisher has brought it out in an extremely - tasteful style, and no family in the world should be without - it." - - -_From the Pennsylvania Inquirer._ - - "Mr. T. B. Peterson has just published '_Miss Leslie's New - Cookery Book_.' This will be a truly popular work. Thousands of - copies will very soon be disposed of, and other thousands will - be needed. It contains directions for cooking, preserving, - pickling, and preparing almost every description of dish: also - receipts for preparing farina, Indian meal, fancy tea-cakes, - marmalades, etc. We know of a no more useful work for - families." - - -_From the Public Ledger._ - - "As every woman, whether wife or maid, should be qualified for - the duties of a housekeeper, a work which gives the information - which acquaints her with its most important duties, will no - doubt be sought after by the fair sex. This work is '_Miss - Leslie's New Cookery Book_.' Get it by all means." - - -_From the Boston Evening Traveler._ - - "We do not claim to be deeply versed in the art of cookery; but - a lady, skilled in the art, to whom we have submitted this - work, assures us that there is nothing like it within the - circle of her knowledge; and that having this, a housekeeper - would need no other written guide to the mysteries of - housekeeping. It contains hundreds of new receipts, which the - author has fully tried and tested; and they relate to almost - every conceivable dish--flesh, fish, and fowl, soups, sauces, - and sweetmeats; puddings, pies, and pickles; cakes and - confectionery. There are, too, lists of articles suitable to go - together for breakfasts, dinners and suppers, at different - seasons of the year, for plain family meals, and elaborate - company preparations; which must be of great convenience. - Indeed, there appears to be, as our lady friend remarked, - everything in this book that a housekeeper needs to know; and - having this book she would seem to need no other to afford her - instruction about housekeeping." - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY - - BOOK. - - "As every woman, whether wife or maid, should be qualified for - the duties of a housekeeper, a work which gives the information - which acquaints her with its most important duties will no - doubt be sought after by the fair sex. This work is '_Miss - Leslie's New Cookery Book_.' Get it by all means."--_Public - Ledger._ - - PHILADELPHIA: - T. B. PETERSON NO. 102 CHESTNUT STREET. - 1857. - - - - - Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by - - ELIZA LESLIE, - - In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United - States, in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -I have endeavored to render this work a complete manual of domestic -cookery _in all its branches_. It comprises an unusual number of pages, -and the receipts are all practical, and _practicable_--being so -carefully and particularly explained as to be easily comprehended by the -merest novice in the art. Also, I flatter myself that most of these -preparations (if faithfully and liberally followed,) will be found very -agreeable to the general taste; always, however, keeping in mind that -every ingredient must be of unexceptionable quality, and that good -cooking cannot be made out of bad marketing. - -I hope those who consult this book will find themselves at no loss, -whether required to prepare sumptuous viands "for company," or to -furnish a daily supply of nice dishes for an excellent family table; or -plain, yet wholesome and palatable food where economy is very expedient. - - ELIZA LESLIE. - - _Philadelphia, March 28th, 1857._ - - - - -WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. - -Tested and Arranged by Miss Leslie. - - - Wheat flour one pound of 16 ounces is one quart. - Indian meal one pound 2 ounces is one quart. - Butter, when soft one pound 1 ounce is one quart. - Loaf sugar, broken up, one pound is one quart. - White sugar, powdered, one pound 1 ounce is one quart. - Best brown sugar, one pound 2 ounces is one quart. - Eggs ten eggs weigh one pound. - - -LIQUID MEASURE. - - Four large table-spoonfuls are half a jill. - Eight large table-spoonfuls are one jill. - Two jills are half a pint. - A common-sized tumbler holds half a pint. - A common-sized wine-glass holds about half a jill. - Two pints are one quart. - Four quarts are one gallon. - - About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a - common-sized tea-spoon. - - Four table-spoonfuls will generally fill a common-sized - wine-glass. - - Four wine-glasses will fill a half pint tumbler, or a large - coffee-cup. - - A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half; - sometimes not so much. - - A table-spoonful of salt is about one ounce. - - -DRY MEASURE. - - Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck. - One gallon is half a peck. - Two gallons are one peck. - Four gallons are half a bushel. - Eight gallons are one bushel. - - Throughout this book, the pound is avoirdupois weight--sixteen - ounces. - - - - -GENERAL CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - - SOUPS, 33 - - FISH, 77 - - SHELL-FISH, 108 - - BEEF, 138 - - MUTTON, 173 - - VEAL, 188 - - PORK, 216 - - HAM AND BACON, 235 - - VENISON, 252 - - POULTRY AND GAME, 265 - - SAUCES, 309 - - VEGETABLES, 343 - - BREAD, PLAIN CAKES, ETC., 401 - - PLAIN DESSERTS, 444 - - FINE DESSERTS, 469 - - FINE CAKES, 516 - - SWEETMEATS, 543 - - PICKLES, 568 - - PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK, 581 - - MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, 595 - - WORTH KNOWING, 645 - - - - -ANIMALS - -FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE LARGE ANIMALS ARE -DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS. - - -[Illustration: _Beef._] - - 1. Sirloin. - 2. Rump. - 3. Edge Bone. - 4. Buttock. - 5. Mouse Buttock. - 6. Leg. - 7. Thick Flank. - 8. Veiny Piece. - 9. Thin Flank. - 10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs. - 11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs. - 12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs. - 13. Brisket. - 14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. - 15. Clod. - 16. Neck, or Sticking Piece. - 17. Shin. - 18. Cheek. - - -[Illustration: _Veal._] - - 1. Loin, Best End. - 2. Fillet. - 3. Loin, Chump End. - 4. Hind Knuckle. - 5. Neck, Best End. - 6. Breast, Best End. - 7. Blade Bone. - 8. Fore Knuckle. - 9. Breast, Brisket End. - 10. Neck, Scrag End. - - -[Illustration: _Mutton._] - - 1. Leg. - 2. Shoulder. - 3. Loin, Best End. - 4. Loin, Chump End. - 5. Neck, Best End. - 6. Breast. - 7. Neck, Scrag End. - - _Note._--A Chine is two Loins; and a Saddle is two Loins and two - Necks of the Best End. - - -[Illustration: _Pork._] - - 1. Leg. - 2. Hind Loin. - 3. Fore Loin. - 4. Spare Rib. - 5. Hand. - 6. Spring. - - -[Illustration: _Venison._] - - 1. Shoulder. - 2. Neck. - 3. Haunch. - 4. Breast. - 5. Scrag. - - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY BOOK. - - - - -SOUPS. - - -It is impossible to have good soup, without a sufficiency of good meat; -thoroughly boiled, carefully skimmed, and moderately seasoned. Meat that -is too bad for any thing else, is too bad for soup. Cold meat recooked, -adds little to its taste or nourishment, and it is in vain to attempt to -give poor soup a factitious flavor by the disguise of strong spices, or -other substances which are disagreeable or unpalatable to at least one -half the eaters, and frequently unwholesome. Rice and barley add to the -insipidity of weak soups, having no taste of their own. And even if the -meat is good, too large a proportion of water, and too small a quantity -of animal substance will render it flat and vapid. - -Every family has, or ought to have, some personal knowledge of certain -poor people--people to whom their broken victuals would be acceptable. -Let then the most of their cold, fresh meat be set apart for those who -can ill afford to buy meat in market. To them it will be an important -acquisition; while those who indulge in fine clothes, fine furniture, -&c., had best be consistent, and allow themselves the nourishment and -enjoyment of freshly cooked food for each meal. Therefore where there is -no absolute necessity of doing otherwise, let the soup always be made of -meat bought expressly for the purpose, and of one sort only, except when -the flavor is to be improved by the introduction of ham. - -In plain cooking, every dish should have a distinct taste of its natural -flavor predominating. Let the soup, for instance, be of beef, mutton, or -veal, but not of all three; and a chicken, being overpowered by the -meat, adds nothing to the general flavor. - -Soup-meat that has been boiled long enough to extract the juices -thoroughly, becomes too tasteless to furnish, afterwards, a good dish -for the table; with the exception of mutton, which may be eaten very -well after it has done duty in the soup-pot, when it is much liked by -many persons of simple tastes. Few who are accustomed to living at -hotels, can relish hotel soups, which (even in houses where most other -things are unexceptionable), is seldom such as can be approved by -persons who are familiar with good tables. Hotel soups and hotel hashes, -(particularly those that are dignified with French names), are -notoriously made of cold scraps, leavings, and in some houses, are the -absolute refuse of the kitchen. In most cases, the sight of a hotel -stock-pot would cause those who saw it, to forswear soup, &c. - -If the directions are _exactly_ followed, the soups contained in the -following pages will be found palatable, nutritious, and easily made; -but they require plenty of good ingredients. - -We have heard French cooks boast of their soup being "delicate." The -English would call it "soup meagre." In such a country as America, where -good things are abundant, there is no necessity of imbibing the -flatulency of weak washy soups. - -All soups should be boiled slowly at first, that the essence of the meat -may be thoroughly drawn forth. The lid of the pot should be kept close, -unless when it is necessary to remove it for taking off the scum, which -should be done frequently and carefully. If this is neglected, the scum -will boil back again into the soup, spoil it, and make it impure or -muddled. When no more scum arises, and the meat is all in rags, dropping -from the bones, it is time to put in the vegetables, seasoning, &c., and -not till then; and if it should have boiled away too much, then is the -time to add a little _hot_ water from another kettle. Add also a large -crust of bread or two. It may now be made to boil faster, and the -thickening must be put in. This is a table-spoonful or more of flour -mixed to a smooth paste with a little water, and enriched with a -tea-spoonful of good butter, or beef-dripping. This thickening is -indispensable to all soups. Let it be stirred in well. If making a rich -soup that requires wine or catchup, let it be added the last thing, just -before the soup is taken from the fire. - -When all is quite done and thoroughly boiled, cover the bottom of a -tureen with small squares of bread or toast, and dip or pour the soup -into it, leaving all the bones and shreds of meat in the pot. To let any -of the sediment get into the tureen is slovenly and vulgar. Not a -particle of this should ever be found in a soup-plate. There are cooks -who, if not prevented, will put all the refuse into the tureen; so that, -when helped, the plates are half full of shreds of meat and scraps of -bone, while all the best of the soup is kept back for the kitchen. This -should be looked to. Servants who cannot reconcile it to their -conscience to steal money or any very valuable articles, have frequently -no hesitation in purloining or keeping to themselves whatever they like -in the way of food. - -Soup may be colored yellow with grated carrots, red with tomato juice, -and green with the juice of pounded spinach--the coloring to be stirred -in after the skimming is over. These colorings are improvements both to -its look and flavor. It may be browned with scorched flour, kept ready -always for the purpose. Never put cloves or allspice into soup--they -give it a blackish ashy dirt color, and their taste is so strong as to -overpower every thing else. Both these coarse spices are out of use at -good tables, and none are introduced in nice cookery but mace, nutmeg, -ginger, and cinnamon. - -The meat boiled in soup gives out more of its essence, when cut off the -bone, and divided into small pieces, always removing the fat. The bones, -however, should go in, as they contain much glutinous substance, adding -to the strength and thickness of the soup, which cannot be palatable or -wholesome unless all the grease is carefully skimmed off. Kitchen grease -is used chiefly for soap-fat. - -In cold weather, good soup, if carefully covered and kept in a cool -place, and boiled over again for half an hour _without_ any _additional -water_, will be better on the second day than on the first. - -It is an excellent way in winter to boil the meat and bones on the first -day, without any vegetables. Then, when very thick and rich, strain the -liquid into a large pan; cover it, and set it away till next morning--it -should then be found a thick jelly. Cut it in pieces, having scraped off -the sediment from the bottom--then add the vegetables, and boil them in -the soup. - - -MUSHROOM SOUP.--Cut a knuckle of veal, or a neck of mutton, (or both, if -they are small,) into large pieces, and remove the bones. Put it into a -soup-pot with sufficient water to cover the whole, and season with a -little salt and cayenne. Let it boil till the meat is in rags, skimming -it well; then strain off the soup into another pot. Have ready a large -quart, or a quart and a pint of freshly-gathered mushrooms--cut them -into quarters, having removed the stalks. Put them into the soup, adding -a quarter of a pound (or more) of fresh butter, divided into bits and -rolled in flour. Boil the whole about half an hour longer--try if the -mushrooms are tender, and do not take them up till they are perfectly -so. Keep the pot lid closely covered, except when you remove the lid to -try the mushrooms. Lay at the bottom of the tureen a large slice of -buttered toast, (cut into small squares,) and pour the soup upon it. -This is a company soup. - - -SWEET CORN SOUP.--Take a knuckle of veal, and a set of calf's feet. Put -them into a soup-pot with some cold boiled ham cut into pieces, and -season them with pepper only. Having allowed a quart of water to each -pound of meat, pour it on, and let it boil till the meat falls from the -bone; strain it, and pour the liquid into a clean pot. If you live in -the country, or where milk is plenty, make this soup of milk without any -water. All white soups are best of milk. You may boil in this, with the -veal and feet, an old fowl, (cut into pieces,) that is too tough for any -other purpose. When the soup is well boiled, and the shreds all strained -away, have ready (cooked by themselves in another pot) some ears of -sweet corn, young and tender. Cut the grains from the cob, mix the corn -with fresh butter, season it with pepper, and stir it in the strained -soup. Give the whole a short boil, pour it into the tureen, and send it -to table. - - -VENISON SOUP.--Is excellent, made as above, with water instead of milk, -and plenty of corn. And it is very convenient for a new settlement. - - -TOMATO SOUP.--Take a shin or leg of beef, and cut off all the meat. Put -it, with the bones, in a large soup-pot, and season it slightly with -salt and pepper. Pour on a gallon of water. Boil and skim it well. Have -ready half a peck of ripe tomatos, that have been quartered, and pressed -or strained through a sieve, so as to be reduced to a pulp. Add half a -dozen onions that have been sliced, and a table-spoonful of sugar to -lessen a little the acid of the tomatos. When the meat is all to rags, -and the whole thoroughly done, (which will not be in less than six hours -from the commencement) strain it through a cullender, and thicken it a -little with grated bread crumbs. - -This soup will be much improved by the addition of a half peck of -ochras, peeled, sliced thin, and boiled with the tomatos till quite -dissolved. - -Before it goes into the tureen, see that there are no shreds of meat or -bits of bone left in the soup. - - -FAMILY TOMATO SOUP.--Take four pounds of the lean of a good piece of -fresh beef. The fat is of no use for soup, as it must be skimmed off -when boiling. Cut the meat in pieces, season them with a little salt and -pepper, and put them into a pot with three quarts of water. The tomatos -will supply abundance of liquid. Of these you should have a large -quarter of a peck. They should be full-grown, and quite ripe. Cut each -tomato into four pieces, and put them into the soup; after it has come -to a boil and been skimmed. It will be greatly improved by adding a -quarter of a peck of ochras cut into thin round slices. Both tomatos and -ochras require long and steady boiling with the meat. To lessen the -extreme acid of the tomatos, stir in a heaped table-spoonful of sugar. -Add also one large onion, peeled and minced small; and add two or three -bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. The soup must boil till the meat -is all to rags and the tomatos and ochras entirely dissolved, and their -forms undistinguishable. Pour it off carefully from the sediment into -the tureen, in the bottom of which have ready some toasted bread, cut -into small squares. - - -FINE TOMATO SOUP.--Take some nice fresh beef, and divest it of the bone -and fat. Sprinkle it with a little salt and pepper, and pour on water, -allowing to each pound of meat a pint and a half (not more) of water, -and boil and skim it till it is very thick and clear, and all the -essence seems to be drawn out of the meat. Scald and peel a large -portion of ripe tomatos--cut them in quarters, and laying them in a -stew-pan, let them cook in their own juice till they are entirely -dissolved. When quite done, strain the tomato liquid, and stir into it a -little sugar. In a third pan stew an equal quantity of sliced ochras -with a very little water; they must be stewed till their shape can no -longer be discerned. Strain separately the meat liquor, the tomatos, and -the ochras. Mix butter and flour together into a lump; knead it a -little, and when all the liquids are done and strained put them into a -clean soup-pan, stir in the flour and butter, and give the soup one boil -up. Transfer it to your tureen, and stir altogether. The soup made -precisely as above will be perfectly smooth and nice. Have little rolls -or milk biscuits to eat with it. - -This is a tomato soup for dinner company. - - -GREEN PEA SOUP.--Make a nice soup, in the usual way, of beef, mutton, or -knuckle of veal, cutting off all the fat, and using only the lean and -the bones, allowing a quart of water to each pound of meat. If the meat -is veal, add four or six calf's feet, which will greatly improve the -soup. Boil it slowly, (having slightly seasoned it with pepper and -salt,) and when it has boiled, and been well skimmed, and no more scum -appears, then put in a quart or more of freshly-shelled green peas, with -none among them that are old, hard, and yellow; and also a sprig or two -of green mint, and a little loaf sugar. Boil the peas till they are -entirely dissolved. Then (having removed all the meat and bones) strain -the soup through a sieve, and return it to the soup-pot, (which, in the -mean time, should have been washed clean,) and stir into it a tea-cupful -of green spinach juice, (obtained by pounding some spinach.) Have ready -(boiled, or rather stewed in another pot) a quart of young fresh peas, -enriched with a piece of fresh butter. These last peas should be boiled -tender, but not to a mash. After they are in, give the soup another boil -up, and then pour it off into a tureen, in the bottom of which has been -laid some toast cut into square bits, with the crust removed. This soup -should be of a fine green color, and very thick. - - -EXCELLENT BEAN SOUP.--Early in the evening of the day before you make -the soup, wash clean a large quart of dried white beans in a pan of cold -water, and about bedtime pour off that water, and replace it with a -fresh panful. Next morning, put on the beans to boil, with only water -enough to cook them well, and keep them boiling slowly till they have -all bursted, stirring them up frequently from the bottom, lest they -should burn. Meantime, prepare in a larger pot, a good soup made of a -shin of beef cut into pieces, and the hock of a cold ham, allowing a -large quart of water to each pound of meat. - -Season it with pepper only, (no salt,) and put in with it a head of -celery, split and cut small. Boil the soup (skimming it well) till the -meat is all in rags; then take it out, leaving not a morsel in the pot, -and put in the boiled beans. Let them boil in the soup till they are -undistinguishable, and the soup very thick. Put some small squares of -toast in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup upon it. - -There is said to be nothing better for making soup than the camp-kettle -of the army. Many of the common soldiers make their bean soup of -surpassing excellence. - - -SPLIT PEA SOUP.--In buying dried or split peas, see that they are not -old and worm-eaten. Wash two quarts of them over night in two or three -waters. In the morning make a rich soup of the lean of beef or mutton, -and the hock of a ham. Season it with pepper, but no salt. When it has -boiled, and been thoroughly skimmed, put in the split peas, with a head -of celery cut into small pieces, or else two table-spoonfuls of celery -seed. Let it boil till the peas are entirely dissolved and -undistinguishable. When it is finished strain the soup through a sieve, -divesting it of the thin shreds of meat and bits of bone. Then transfer -it to a tureen, in which has been laid some square bits of toast. Stir -it up to the bottom directly before it goes to table. - -You may boil in the soup (instead of the ham) a good piece (a rib -piece, or a fillet) of corned pork, more lean than fat. When it is done, -take the pork out of the soup, put it on a dish, and have ready to eat -with it a pease pudding boiled by itself, cut in thick slices and laid -round the pork. This pudding is made of a quart of split peas, soaked -all night, mixed with four beaten eggs and a piece of fresh butter, and -tied in a cloth and boiled three or four hours, or till the peas have -become a mass. - - -ASPARAGUS SOUP.--Make in the usual way a nice rich soup of beef or -mutton, seasoned with salt and pepper. After it has been well boiled and -skimmed, and the meat is all to pieces, strain the soup into another -pot, or wash out the same, and return to it the liquid. Have ready a -large quantity of fine fresh asparagus, with the stalks cut off close to -the green tops or blossoms. It should have been lying in cold water all -the time the meat was boiling. Put into the soup half of the asparagus -tops, and boil them in it till entirely dissolved, adding a tea-cupful -of spinach juice, obtained by pounding fresh spinach in a mortar. Stir -the juice well in and it will give a fine green color. Then add the -remaining half of the asparagus; having previously boiled them in a -small pan by themselves, till they are quite tender, but not till they -lose their shape. Give the whole one boil up together. Make some nice -slices of toast, (having cut off the crust.) Dip them a minute in hot -water. Butter them, lay them in the bottom of the tureen, and pour the -soup upon them. This (like green peas) will do for company soup. - - -CABBAGE SOUP.--Remove the fat and bone from a good piece of fresh beef, -or mutton--season it with a little salt and pepper, put it into a -soup-pot, with a quart of water allowed to each pound of meat. Boil, and -skim it till no more scum is seen on the surface. Then strain it, and -thicken it with flour and butter mixed. Have ready a fine fresh cabbage, -(a young summer one is best) and after it is well washed through two -cold waters, and all the leaves examined to see if any insects have -crept between, quarter the cabbage, (removing the stalk) and with a -cabbage-cutter, or a strong sharp knife, cut it into shreds. Or you may -begin the cabbage whole and cut it into shreds, spirally, going round -and round it with the knife. Put the cabbage into the clear soup, and -boil it till, upon trial, by taking up a little on a fork, you find it -quite tender and perfectly well cooked. Then serve it up in the tureen. -This is a family soup. - - -RED CABBAGE SOUP.--Red cabbages for soup should either be quartered, or -cut into shreds; it is made as above, of beef or mutton, and seasoned -with salt, pepper, and a jill of strong tarragon vinegar, or a -table-spoonful of mixed tarragon leaves, if in summer. - - -FINE CABBAGE SOUP.--Remove the outside leaves from a fine, fresh, large -cabbage. Cut the stalk short, and split it half-way down so as to divide -the cabbage into quarters, but do not separate it quite to the bottom. -Wash the cabbage, and lay it in cold water for half an hour or more. -Then set it over the fire in a pot full of water, adding a little salt, -and let it boil slowly for an hour and a half, or more--skimming it -well. Then take it out, drain it, and laying it in a deep pan, pour on -_cold_ water, and let it remain till the cabbage is cold all through. -Next, having drained it from the cold water, cut the cabbage in shreds, -(as for cold-slaw,) and put it into a clean pot containing a quart and a -pint of boiling milk into which you have stirred a quarter of a pound of -nice fresh butter, divided into four bits and rolled in flour, adding a -little pepper and a very little salt. Boil it in the milk till -thoroughly done and quite tender. Then make some nice toast, cut it into -squares, lay it in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup on it. This -being made without meat is a good soup for Lent. It will be improved by -stirring in, towards the last, two or three beaten eggs. - - -CAULIFLOWER SOUP.--Put into a soup-pot a knuckle of veal, and allow to -each pound a quart of water. Add a set of calf's feet that have been -singed and scraped, but not skinned; and the hock of a cold boiled ham. -Boil it till all the meat is in rags, and the soup very thick, seasoning -with cayenne and a few blades of mace, and adding, towards the last, -some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Boil in another pot, one or -two fine cauliflowers. They are best boiled in milk. When quite done and -very tender, drain them, cut off the largest stalks, and divide the -blossoms into small pieces; put them into a deep covered dish, lay some -fresh butter among them, and keep them hot till the veal soup is boiled -to its utmost thickness. Then strain it into a soup-tureen, and put into -it the cauliflower, grating some nutmeg upon it. This soup will be found -very fine, and is an excellent white soup for company. - -For Lent this soup may be made without meat, substituting milk, butter, -and flour, and eggs, as in the receipt for fine cabbage soup. Season it -with mace and nutmeg. If made with milk, &c., put no water on it, but -boil the cauliflower in milk from the beginning. This can easily be done -where milk is plenty. - - -FINE ONION SOUP.--Take a fine fresh neck of mutton, and to make a large -tureen of soup, you must have a breast of mutton also. Let the meat be -divided into chops, season it with a little salt, and put it in a -soup-pot--allow a quart of water to each pound of mutton. Boil, and skim -it till no more scum arises, and the meat drops in rags from the bones. -In a small pot boil in milk a dozen large onions, (or more,) adding -pepper, mace, nutmeg, and some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. The -onions should previously be peeled and sliced. When they are quite soft, -transfer them to the soup, with the milk, &c., in which they were -cooked. Give them one boil in the soup. Then pour it off, or strain it -into the tureen, omitting all the sediment, and bones, and shreds of -meat. Make some nice slices of toast, dipping each in boiling water, and -trimming off all the crust. Cut the toast into small squares, lay them -in the bottom of the tureen, and pour the soup upon them. Where there is -no objection to onions it will be much liked. - -If milk is plenty use it instead of water for onion soup. White soups -are always best when made with milk. - - -TURNIP SOUP.--For a very small family take a neck of mutton, and divide -it into steaks, omitting all the fat. For a family of moderate size, -take a breast as well as a neck. Put them into a soup-pot with -sufficient water to cover them, and let them stew till well browned. -Skim them carefully. Then pour on more water, in the proportion of a -pint to each pound of meat, and add eight or ten turnips pared and -sliced thin, with a very little pepper and salt. Let the soup boil till -the turnips are all dissolved, and the meat in rags. Add, towards the -last, some bits of butter rolled in flour, and in five minutes -afterwards the soup will be done. Carefully remove all the bits of meat -and bone before you send the soup to table. It will be found very good, -and highly flavored with the turnips. - -Onion soup may be made in the same manner. Parsnip soup also, cutting -the parsnips into small bits. Or all three--turnips, onions and -parsnips, may be used together. - - -PARSNIP SOUP.--The meat for this soup may either be fresh beef, mutton, -or fresh venison. Remove the fat, cut the meat into pieces, add a little -salt, and put it into a soup-pot, with an allowance of rather less than -a quart of water to each pound. Prepare some fine large parsnips, by -first scraping and splitting them, and cutting them into pieces; then -putting them into a frying pan, and frying them brown, in fresh butter -or nice drippings. When the soup has been boiled till the meat is all in -rags, and well skimmed--put into it the fried parsnips and let them boil -about ten minutes, but not till they break or go to pieces. Just before -you put in the parsnips, stir in a table-spoonful of thickening made -with butter and flour, mixed to a smooth paste. When you put it into the -tureen to go to table, be sure to leave in the pot all the shreds of -meat and bits of bone. - - -CARROT SOUP.--Take a good piece of fresh beef that has not been -previously cooked. Remove the fat. It is of no use in making soup; and -as it must all be skimmed off when boiling, it is better to clear it -away before the meat goes into the pot. Season the beef with a very -little salt and pepper, and allow a small quart of water to each pound. -Grate half a dozen or more large carrots on a coarse grater, and put -them to boil in the soup with some other carrots; cut them into pieces -about two inches long. When all the meat is boiled to rags, and has left -the bone, pour off the soup from the sediment, transferring it to a -tureen, and sending it to table with bread cut into it. - - -POTATO SOUP.--Pare and slice thin half a dozen fine potatos and a small -onion. Boil them in three large pints of water, till so soft that you -can pulp them through a cullender. When returned to the pot add a very -little salt and cayenne, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -divided into bits, and boil it ten minutes longer. When you put it into -the tureen, stir in two table-spoonfuls or more of good cream. This is a -soup for fast-days, or for invalids. - - -CHESTNUT SOUP.--Make, in the best manner, a soup of the lean of fresh -beef, mutton, or venison, (seasoned with cayenne and a little salt,) -allowing rather less than a quart of water to each pound of meat, -skimming and boiling it well, till the meat is all in rags, and drops -from the bone. Strain it, and put it into a clean pot. Have ready a -quart or more of large chestnuts, boiled and peeled. If roasted, they -will be still better. They should be the large Spanish chestnuts. Put -the chestnuts into the soup, with some small bits of fresh butter rolled -in flour. Boil the soup ten minutes longer, before it goes to table. - - -PORTABLE SOUP.--This is a very good and nutritious soup, made first into -a jelly, and then congealed into hard cakes, resembling glue. If well -made, it will keep for many months in a cool, dry place, and when -dissolved in hot water or gravy, will afford a fine liquid soup, very -convenient to carry in a box on a journey or sea voyage, or to use in a -remote place, where fresh meat for soup is not to be had. A piece of -this glue, the size of a large walnut, will, when melted in water, -become a pint bowl of soup; or by using less water, you may have it much -richer. If there is time and opportunity, boil with the piece of soup a -seasoning of sliced onion, sweet marjoram, sweet basil, or any herbs you -choose. Also, a bit of butter rolled in flour. - -To make portable soup, take two shins or legs of beef, two knuckles of -veal, and four unskinned calves' feet. Have the bones broken or cracked. -Put the whole into a large clean pot that will hold four gallons of -water. Pour in, at beginning, only as much water as will cover the meat -well, and set it over the fire, to heat gradually till it almost boils. -Watch and skim it carefully while any scum rises. Then pour in a quart -of cold water to make it throw up all the remaining scum, and then let -it come to a good boil, continuing to skim as long as the least scum -appears. In this be particular. When the liquid appears perfectly clear -and free from grease, pour in the remainder of the water, and let it -boil very gently for eight hours. Strain it through a very clean hair -sieve into a large stoneware pan, and set it where it will cool quickly. -Next day, remove all the remaining grease, and pour the liquid, as -quickly as possible, into a three-gallon stew-pan, taking care not to -disturb the settlings at the bottom. Keep the pan uncovered, and let it -boil as fast as possible over a quick fire. Next, transfer it to a -three-quart stew-pan, and skim it again, if necessary. Watch it well, -and see that it does not burn, as that would spoil the whole. Take out a -little in a spoon, and hold it in the air, to see if it will jelly. If -it will not, boil it a little longer. Till it jellies, it is not done. - -Have ready some small white ware preserve pots, clean, and quite dry. -Fill them with the soup, and let them stand undisturbed till next day. -Set, over a slow fire, a large flat-bottomed stew-pan, one-third filled -with boiling water. Place in it the pots of soup, seeing it does not -reach within two inches of their rims. Let the pots stand uncovered in -this water, hot, but without boiling, for six or seven hours. This will -bring the soup to a proper thickness, which should be that of a stiff -jelly, when hot; and when cold, it should be like hard glue. When -finished turn out the moulds of soup, and wrap them up separately in new -brownish paper, and put them up in boxes, breaking off a piece when -wanted to dissolve the soup. - -Portable soup may be improved by the addition of three pounds of nice -lean beef, to the shins, knuckles, calves' feet, &c. The beef must be -cut into bits. - -If you have any friends going the overland journey to the Pacific, a box -of portable soup may be a most useful present to them. - - -PEPPER-POT.--Have ready a small half pound of very nice white tripe, -that has been thoroughly boiled and skinned, in a pot by itself, till -quite soft and tender. It should be cut into very small strips or -mouthfuls. Put into another pot a neck of mutton, and a pound of lean -ham, and pour on it a large gallon of water. Boil it slowly, and skim -it. When the scum has ceased to rise, put in two large onions sliced, -four potatos quartered, and four sliced turnips. Season with a very -small piece of red pepper or capsicum, taking care not to make it too -hot. Then add the boiled tripe. Make a quart bowlful of small dumplings -of butter and flour, mixed with a very little water; and throw them into -the pepper-pot, which should afterwards boil about an hour. Then take -it up, and remove the meat before it is put into the tureen. Leave in -the bits of tripe. - - -NOODLE SOUP.--This soup may be made with either beef or mutton, but the -meat must be fresh for the purpose, and not cold meat, re-cooked. Cut -off all the fat, and break the bones. If boiled in the soup they improve -it. To each pound of meat allow a small quart of water. Boil and skim -it, till the meat drops from the bone. Put in with the meat, after the -scum has ceased to rise, some turnips, carrots and onions, cut in -slices, and boil them till all to pieces. Strain the soup, and return -the liquid to a clean pot. Have ready a large quantity of noodles, (in -French _nouilles_,) and put them into the strained soup; let them boil -in it ten minutes. The noodles are composed of beaten eggs, made into a -paste or dough, with flour and a very little fresh butter. This paste is -rolled out thin into a square sheet. This sheet is then closely rolled -up like a scroll or quire of thick paper, and then with a sharp knife -cut round into shreds, or shavings, as cabbage is cut for slaw. These -cuttings must be dredged with flour to prevent their sticking. Throw -them into the soup while boiling the second time, and let it boil for -ten minutes longer. - - -CHICKEN SOUP.--Cut up two large fine fowls, as if carving them for the -table, and wash the pieces in cold water. Take half a dozen thin slices -of cold ham, and lay them in a soup-pot, mixed among the pieces of -chicken. Season them with a very little cayenne, a little nutmeg, and a -few blades of mace, but no salt, as the ham will make it salt enough. -Add a head of celery, split and cut into long bits, a quarter of a pound -of butter, divided in two, and rolled in flour. Pour on three quarts of -milk. Set the soup-pot over the fire, and let it boil rather slowly, -skimming it well. When it has boiled an hour, put in some small round -dumplings, made of half a pound of flour mixed with a quarter of a pound -of butter; divide this dough into equal portions, and roll them in your -hands into little balls about the size of a large hickory nut. The soup -must boil till the flesh of the fowls is loose on the bones, but not -till it drops off. Stir in, at the last, the beaten yolks of three or -four eggs; and let the soup remain about five minutes longer over the -fire. Then take it up. Cut off from the bones the flesh of the fowls, -and divide it into mouthfuls. Cut up the slices of ham in the same -manner. Mince the livers and gizzards. Put the bits of fowl and ham in -the bottom of a large tureen, and pour the soup upon it. - -This soup will be found excellent, and may be made of large old fowls, -that cannot be cooked in any other way. If they are so old that when -the soup is finished they still continue tough, remove them entirely, -and do not serve them up at all. - -Similar soup may be made of a large old turkey. Also, of four rabbits. - - -DUCK SOUP.--Half roast a pair of fine large tame ducks, keeping them -half an hour at the fire, and saving the gravy, the fat of which must be -carefully skimmed off. Then cut them up; season them with black pepper; -and put them into a soup-pot with four or five small onions sliced thin, -a small bunch of sage, a thin slice of cold ham cut into pieces, a -grated nutmeg, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated. Add the gravy of -the ducks. Pour on, slowly, three quarts of boiling water from a kettle. -Cover the soup-pot, and set it over a moderate fire. Simmer it slowly -(skimming it well) for about four hours, or till the flesh of the ducks -is dissolved into small shreds. When done, strain it through a tureen, -the bottom of which is covered with toasted bread, cut into square dice -about two inches in size. - - -FRENCH WHITE SOUP.--Boil a knuckle of veal and four calves' feet in five -quarts of water, with three onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, four -heads of white celery cut small, a table-spoonful of whole pepper, and a -_small_ tea-spoonful of salt, adding five or six large blades of mace. -Let it boil very slowly, till the meat is in rags and has dropped from -the bone, and till the gristle has quite dissolved. Skim it well while -boiling. When done, strain it through a sieve into a tureen, or a deep -white-ware pan. Next day, take off all the fat, and put the jelly (for -such it ought to be) into a clean soup-pot with two ounces of -vermicelli, and set it over the fire. When the vermicelli is dissolved, -stir in, gradually, a pint of thick cream, while the soup is quite hot; -but do not let it come to a boil after the cream is in, lest it should -curdle. Cut up one or two French rolls in the bottom of a tureen, pour -in the soup, and send it to table. - - -COCOA-NUT SOUP.--Take eight calves' feet (two sets) that have been -scalded and scraped, but not skinned; and put them into a soup-kettle -with six or seven blades of mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated. -Pour on a gallon of water; cover the kettle, and let it boil very slowly -(skimming it well) till the flesh is reduced to rags and has dropped -entirely from the bones. Then strain it into a broad white-ware pan, and -set it away to get cold. When it has congealed, scrape off the fat and -sediment, cut up the cake of jelly, (or stock,) and put it into a clean -porcelain or enameled kettle. Have ready half a pound of very finely -grated cocoa-nut. Mix it with a pint of cream. If you cannot obtain -cream, take rich unskimmed milk, and add to it three ounces of the best -fresh butter divided into three parts, each bit rolled in arrow-root or -rice-flour. Mix it, gradually, with the cocoa-nut, and add it to the -calves-feet-stock in the kettle, seasoned with a small nutmeg grated. -Set it over the fire, and boil it, slowly, about a quarter of an hour; -stirring it well. Then transfer it to a tureen, and serve it up. Have -ready small French rolls, or light milk biscuit to eat with it; also -powdered sugar in case any of the company should wish to sweeten it. - - -ALMOND SOUP is made in the above manner, substituting pounded almonds -for the grated cocoa-nut. You must have half a pound of shelled sweet -almonds, mixed with two ounces of shelled bitter almonds. After -blanching them in hot water, they must be pounded to a smooth paste (one -at a time) in a marble mortar; adding frequently a little rose-water to -prevent their oiling, and becoming heavy. Or you may use peach-water for -this purpose; in which case omit the bitter almonds, as the peach-water -will give the desired flavor. When the pounded almonds are ready, mix -them with the other ingredients, as above. - -The calves' feet for these soups should be boiled either very early in -the morning, or the day before. - - -SPRING SOUP.--Unless your dinner hour is very late, the stock for this -soup should be made the day before it is wanted, and set away in a -stone pan, closely covered. To make the stock take a knuckle of veal, -break the bones, and cut it into several pieces. Allow a quart of water -to each pound of veal. Put it into a soup-pot, with a set of calves' -feet,[A] and some bits of cold ham, cut off near the hock. If you have -no ham, sprinkle in a tea-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoon of cayenne. -Place the pot over a _moderate_ fire, and let it simmer slowly (skimming -it well) for several hours, till the veal is all to rags and the flesh -of the calves' feet has dropped in shreds from the bones. Then strain -the soup; and if not wanted that day, set it away in a stone pan, as -above mentioned. - - [A] In buying calves' feet always get those that are singed, not - skinned. Much of the glutinous or jelly property resides in the skin. - -Next day have, ready boiled, two quarts or more of green peas, (they -must on no account be old,) and a pint of the green tops cut off from -asparagus boiled for the purpose. Pound a handful of raw spinach till -you have extracted a tea-cupful of the juice. Set the soup or stock over -the fire; add the peas, asparagus, and spinach juice, stirring them well -in; also a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four bits, -and rolled in flour. Let the whole come to a boil; and then take it off -and transfer it to a tureen. It will be found excellent. - -In boiling the peas for this soup, you may put with them half a dozen -sprigs of green mint, to be afterwards taken out. - -Late in the spring you may add to the other vegetables two cucumbers, -pared and sliced, and the whitest part or heart of a lettuce, boiled -together; then well drained, and put into the soup with the peas and -asparagus. It must be very thick with vegetables. - - -SUMMER SOUP.--Take a large neck of mutton, and hack it so as nearly to -cut it apart, but not quite. Allow a small quart of water to each pound -of meat, and sprinkle on a tea-spoonful of salt and a very little black -pepper. Put it into a soup-pot, and boil it _slowly_ (skimming it well) -till the meat is reduced to rags. Then strain the liquid, return it to -the soup-pot, and carefully remove all the fat from the surface. Have -ready half a dozen small turnips sliced thin, two young onions sliced, a -table-spoonful of sweet marjoram leaves picked from the stalks, and a -quart of shelled Lima beans. Put in the vegetables, and boil them in the -soup till they are thoroughly done. You may add to them two -table-spoonfuls of green nasturtion seeds, either fresh or pickled. Put -in also some little dumplings, (made of flour and butter,) about ten -minutes before the soup is done. - -Instead of Lima beans, you may divide a cauliflower or two broccolis -into sprigs, and boil them in the soup with the other vegetables. - -This soup may be made of a shoulder of mutton, cut into pieces and the -bones cracked. For a large potful add also the breast to the neck, -cutting the bones apart. - - -AUTUMN SOUP.--Begin this soup as early in the day as possible. Take six -pounds of the lean of fine fresh beef; cut it into small pieces; -sprinkle it with a tea-spoonful of salt, (not more); put it into a -soup-pot, and pour on six quarts of water. The hock of a cold ham will -greatly improve it. Set it over a moderate fire, and let it boil slowly. -After it comes to a boil, skim it well. Have ready a quarter of a peck -of ochras cut into very thin round slices, and a quarter of a peck of -tomatos cut into pieces; also a quart of shelled Lima beans. Season them -with pepper. Put them in; and after the whole has boiled three hours _at -least_, take four ears of young Indian corn, and having grated off all -the grains, add them to the soup and boil it an hour longer. Before you -serve up the soup remove from it all the bits of meat, which, if the -soup is sufficiently cooked, will be reduced to shreds. - -You may put in with the ochras and tomatos one or two sliced onions. The -soup, when done, should be as thick as a jelly. - -Ochras for soup may be kept all winter, by tying them separately to a -line stretched high across the store room. - - -WINTER SOUP.--The day before you make the soup, get a leg or shin of -beef. Have the bone sawed through in several places, and the meat -notched or scored down to the bone. This will cause the juice or essence -to come out more freely, when cooked. Rub it slightly with salt; cover -it, and set it away. Next morning, early as possible, as soon as the -fire is well made up, put the beef into a large soup-pot, allowing to -each pound a small quart of water. Then taste the water, and if the salt -that has been rubbed on the meat is not sufficient, add a very little -more. Throw in also a tea-spoonful of whole pepper-corns; and you may -add half a dozen blades of mace. Let it simmer slowly till it comes to a -boil; then skim it well. After it boils, you may quicken the fire. At -nine o'clock put in a large head of cabbage cut fine as for cold-slaw; -six carrots grated; the leaves stripped from a bunch of sweet marjoram; -and the leaves of a sprig of parsley. An hour afterwards, add six -turnips, and three potatoes, all cut into four or eight pieces. Also two -onions, which will be better if previously roasted brown, and then -sliced. Keep the soup boiling steadily, but not hard, unless the dinner -hour is very early. For a late dinner, there will be time to boil it -slowly all the while; and all soups are the better for long and slow -boiling. See that it is well skimmed, so that, when done, there will be -not a particle of fat or scum on the surface. At dinner-time take it up -with a large ladle, and transfer it to a tureen. In doing so, carefully -avoid the shreds of meat and bone. Leave them all in the bottom of the -pot, pressing them down with the ladle. A mass of shreds in the tureen -or soup-plate looks slovenly and disgusting, and should never be seen at -the table; also, they absorb too much of the liquid. Let the vegetables -remain in the soup when it is served up, but pick out every shred of -meat or bone that may be found in the tureen when ready to go to table. - -In very cold weather, what is left of this soup will keep till the -second day; when it must be simmered again over the fire, till it just -comes to a boil. Put it away in a tin or stone vessel. The lead which is -used in glazing earthen jars frequently communicates its poison to -liquids that are kept in them. - - -VEGETABLE SOUP--(_very good_.)--Soak all night, in cold water, either -two quarts of yellow split peas, or two quarts of dried white beans. In -the morning drain them, and season them with a very little salt and -cayenne, and a head of minced celery, or else a heaped table-spoonful of -celery seed. Put them into a soup-pot with four quarts of water, and -boil them slowly till they are all dissolved and undistinguishable. Stir -them frequently. Have ready a profuse quantity of fresh vegetables, such -as turnips, carrots, parsnips, potatos, onions, and cauliflowers; also, -salsify, and asparagus tops. Put in, first, the vegetables that require -the longest boiling. They should all be cut into small pieces. Enrich -the whole with some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Boil these -vegetables in the soup till they are all quite tender. Then transfer it -to a tureen, and serve it up hot. - -The foundation being of dried peas or beans, makes it very thick and -smooth, and the fresh vegetables improve its flavor. It is a good soup -for Lent, or for any time, if properly and liberally made. - -All vegetable soups can be made in Lent without meat, if milk is -substituted for water, and with butter, beaten eggs and spice, to flavor -and enrich it. - - -FRENCH POT AU FEU.--This is one of the national dishes of France. The -following is a genuine French receipt, and it would be found very -palatable and very convenient if tried in our own land of plenty. The -true French way to cook it is in an earthen pipkin, such as can be had -in any pottery shop. The French vessel has a wide mouth, and -close-fitting lid, with a handle at each side, in the form of circular -ears. It is large and swelling in the middle, and narrows down towards -the bottom. The American pipkin has a short thick spout at one side, and -stands on three or four low feet. No kitchen should be without these -vessels, which are cheap, very strong, and easily kept clean. They can -sit on a stove, or in the corner of the fire, and are excellent for slow -cooking. - -The wife of a French artisan commences her pot au feu soon after -breakfast, prepares the ingredients, puts them, by degrees, into the -pot, attends to it during the day; and when her husband has done his -work she has ready for him an excellent and substantial repast, far -superior to what in our country is called a _tea-dinner_. Men frequently -indemnify themselves for the poorness of a tea-dinner by taking a dram -of whiskey afterwards. A Frenchman is satisfied with his excellent pot -au feu and some fruit afterwards. The French are noted as a temperate -nation. If they have eaten to their satisfaction they have little -craving for drink. Yet there is no country in the world where so much -good eating might be had as in America. But to live well, and -wholesomely, there should also be good cooking, and the wives of our -artisans must learn to think more of the comfort, health, and -cheerfulness of him who in Scotland is called the _bread-winner_, than -of their own finery, and their children's uncomfortable frippery. - -_Receipt._--For a large pot au feu, put into the pipkin six pounds of -good fresh beef cut up, and pour on it four quarts of water. Set it near -the fire, skim it when it simmers, and when nearly boiling, add a -tea-spoonful of salt, half a pound of liver cut in pieces, and some -black pepper. Then add two or three large carrots, sliced or grated on a -coarse grater; four turnips, pared and quartered; eight young onions -peeled and sliced thick, two of the onions roasted whole; a head of -celery cut up; a parsnip split and cut up; and six potatos, pared, -sliced, or quartered. In short any good vegetables now in season, -including tomatos in summer and autumn. Also a bunch of sweet herbs, -chopped small. Let the whole continue to boil slowly and _steadily_; -remembering to skim well. Let it simmer slowly five or six hours. Then, -having laid some large slices of bread in the bottom of a tureen, or a -very large pan or bowl, pour the stew or soup upon it; all the meat, and -all the vegetables. If you have any left, recook it the next morning for -breakfast, and _that day_ you may prepare something else for dinner. - -For beef you may substitute mutton, or fresh venison, if you live in a -venison country, and can get it newly killed. - - -WILD DUCK SOUP.--This is a company soup. If you live where wild ducks -are abundant, it will afford an agreeable variety occasionally to make -soup of some of them. If you suspect them to be sedgy or fishy, (you can -ascertain by the smell when drawing or cleaning them,) parboil each -duck, with a carrot put into his body. Then take out the carrot and -throw it away. You will find that the unpleasant flavor has left the -ducks, and been entirely absorbed by the carrots. To make the soup--cut -up the ducks, season the pieces with a little salt and pepper, and lay -them in a soup-pot. For a good pot of soup you should have four wild -ducks. Add two or three sliced onions, and a table-spoonful of minced -sage. Also a quarter of a pound of butter divided into four, and each -piece rolled in flour. Pour in water enough to make a rich soup, and -let it boil slowly till all the flesh has left the bones,--skim it well. -Thicken it with boiled or roasted chestnuts, peeled, and then mashed -with a potato beetle. A glass of Madeira or sherry will be found an -improvement, stirred in at the last, or the juice and grated peel of a -lemon. In taking it up for the tureen, be careful to leave all the bones -and bits of meat in the bottom of the pot. - - -VENISON SOUP.--Take a large fine piece of freshly killed venison. It is -best at the season when the deer are fat and juicy, from having plenty -of wild berries to feed on. I do not consider winter-venison worth -eating, when the meat is poor and hard, and affords no gravy, and also -is black from being kept too long. When venison is fresh and in good -order it yields a fine soup, allowing a small quart of water to each -pound of meat. When it has boiled well, and been skimmed, put in some -small dumplings made of flour and minced suet, or drippings. Also, -boiled sweet potatos, cut into round thick slices. You may add boiled -sweet corn cut off the cob; and, indeed, whatever vegetables are in -season. The soup-meat should boil till all the flesh is loose on the -bones, and the bits and shreds should not be served up. - -The best pieces of buffalo make good soup. - - -GAME SOUP.--Take partridges, pheasants, grouse, quails, or any of the -birds considered as game. You may put in here as many different sorts as -you can procure. They must all be fresh killed. When they are cleaned -and plucked, cut them in pieces as for carving, and put them into a -soup-pot, with four calves' feet and some slices of ham, two sticks of -celery, and a bundle of sweet herbs chopped small, and water enough to -cover the whole well. Boil and skim well, till all the flesh is loose -from the bones. Strain the liquid through a sieve into a clean pot, then -thicken it with fresh butter rolled in flour. Add some force-meat balls -that have been already fried; or else some hard-boiled yolks of eggs; -some currant jelly, or some good wine into which a half-nutmeg has been -grated; the juice of two oranges or lemons, and the grated yellow peel -of one lemon. Give the soup another boil up, and then send it to table, -having bread rolls to eat with it. - -This is a fine soup for company. Venison soup may be made in this -manner. Hare soup also. - - -SQUATTER'S SOUP.--Take plenty of _fresh-killed_ venison, as fat and -juicy as you can get it. Cut the meat off the bones and put it (with the -bones) into a large pot. Season it with pepper and salt, and pour on -sufficient water to make a good rich soup. Boil it slowly (remembering -to skim it well) till the meat is all in rags. Have ready some ears of -young sweet corn. Boil them in a pot by themselves till they are quite -soft. Cut the grains off the cob into a deep dish. Having cleared the -soup from shreds and bits of bone left at the bottom of the pot, stir in -a thickening made of indian meal mixed to a paste with a little fresh -lard, or venison gravy. And afterwards throw in, by degrees, the cut -corn. Let all boil together, till the corn is soft, or for about half an -hour. Then take it up in a large pan. It will be found very good by -persons who never were squatters. This soup, with a wild turkey or a -buffalo hump roasted, and stewed grapes sweetened well with maple sugar, -will make a good backwoods dinner. - - -MOCK TURTLE SOUP.--Boil together a knuckle of veal (cut up) and a set of -calves' feet, split. Also the hock of a cold boiled ham. Season it with -cayenne pepper; but the ham will render it salt enough. You may add a -smoked tongue. Allow, to each pound of meat, a small quart of water. -After the meat has come to a boil and been well skimmed, add half a -dozen sliced parsnips, three sliced onions, and a head of celery cut -small, with a large bunch of sweet marjoram, and two large carrots -sliced. Boil all together till the vegetables are nearly dissolved and -the meat falls from the bone. Then strain the whole through a cullender, -and transfer the liquid to a clean pot. Have ready some fine large -sweetbreads that have been soaked in warm water for an hour till all -the blood was disgorged; then transferred to boiling water for ten -minutes, and then taken out and laid in very cold water. This will -blanch them, and all sweetbreads should look white. Take them out; and -remove carefully all the pipe or gristle. Cut the sweetbreads in pieces -or mouthfuls, and put them into the pot of strained soup. Have ready -about two or three dozen (or more) of force-meat balls, made of cold -minced veal and ham seasoned with nutmeg and mace, enriched with butter, -and mixed with grated lemon-peel, bread-crumbs, chopped marjoram and -beaten eggs, to make the whole into smooth balls about the size of a -hickory nut. Throw the balls into the soup, and add a fresh lemon, -sliced thin, and a pint of Madeira wine. Give it one more boil up; then -put it into a tureen and send it to table. - -This ought to be a rich soup, and is seldom made except for dinner -company. - -If the above method is _exactly_ followed, there will be found no -necessity for taking the trouble and enduring the disgust and -tediousness of cleaning and preparing a calf's head for mock turtle -soup--a very unpleasant process, which too much resembles the horrors of -a dissecting room. And when all is done a calf's head is a very insipid -article. - -It will be found that the above is superior to any mock turtle. Made of -shin beef, with all these ingredients, it is very rich and fine. - - -FISH SOUP.--All fish soups should be made with milk, (if unskimmed so -much the better,) using no water whatever. The best fish for soup are -the small sort of cat-fish; also tutaug, porgie, blue fish, white fish, -black fish or sea-bass. Cut off their heads, tails, and fins, and remove -the skin, and the backbone, and cut the fish into pieces. To each pound -of fish allow a quart of rich milk. Put into the soup-pot some pieces of -cold boiled ham. No salt will then be required; but season with cayenne -pepper, and a few blades of mace and some grated nutmeg. Add a bunch of -sweet marjoram, the leaves stripped from the stalks and chopped. Make -some little dumplings of flour and butter, and put them in when the soup -is about half done. Half an hour's steady boiling will be sufficient. -Serve up in the tureen the pieces of fish and ham. Also some toast cut -in dice. - -Soup may be made in this manner, of chickens or rabbits, using always -milk enriched with bits of butter rolled in flour and flavored with bits -of cold ham. - - -LOBSTER SOUP.--This is a fine soup for company. Take two or three fine -fresh lobsters, (the middle sized are the best.) Heat a large pot of -water, throwing in a large handful of salt. When it is boiling hard put -in the lobsters, head foremost, that they may die immediately. They will -require at least half an hour's fast boiling; if large, three quarters. -When done, take them out, wipe off the scum that has collected on the -shell, and drain the lobster. First break off the large claws, and crack -them, then split the body, and extract all the white meat, and the red -coral--nothing else--and cut it into small pieces. Mash the coral into -smooth bits with the back of a large spoon, mixing with it plenty of -sweet oil; and, gradually, adding it to the bits of chopped lobster. Put -into a clear soup-pot two quarts, or more, of good milk, and thicken it -with half a dozen crackers or butter-biscuit, pounded fine; or the -grated crumbs of two or three small rolls, and stir in a quarter of a -pound of fresh butter made into a paste with two spoonfuls of flour. Put -in the chopped lobster, seasoned with nutmeg, a few blades of mace -powdered, and a little cayenne. Let all boil together, slowly, for half -an hour, keeping it closely covered. Towards the last, stir in two -beaten eggs. Lay some very small soda biscuit in the bottom of a tureen, -and pour the soup upon them. Nasturtion flowers strewed at the last -thickly over the surface of this soup, when in the tureen, are an -improvement both to its appearance and flavor. So is peppergrass. - - -CRAB SOUP.--Take the meat of two dozen boiled crabs, cut it small, and -give it a boil in two quarts of milk. Season it with powdered mace, -nutmeg, and a little cayenne, and thicken it with butter mixed in flour; -or, make the flour and butter into little dumplings. Have ready half a -dozen yolks of hard-boiled eggs, and crumble them into the soup just -before you take it from the fire. Add the heart of a fresh green -lettuce, cut small and strewed over the surface of the soup, after it is -poured into the tureen. - - -OYSTER SOUP.--Strain the liquor from one hundred oysters, and carefully -remove any bits of shell or particles of sea-weed. To every pint of -oyster liquor allow an equal quantity of rich milk. Season it with whole -pepper and some blades of mace. Add a head of celery, washed, scraped, -and minced small. Put the whole into a soup-pot, and boil and skim it -well. When it boils put in the oysters. Also, a quarter of a pound of -fresh butter; divide into four pieces, each piece rolled in flour. If -you can procure cream, add a half-pint, otherwise boil some six eggs -hard, and crumble the yolks into the soup. After the oysters are in give -them but one boil up, just sufficient to plump them. If boiled longer -they will shrink and shrivel and lose their taste. Take them all out and -set them away to cool. When the soup is done, place in the bottom of the -tureen some small square pieces of nicely toasted bread cut into dice, -and pour on the soup; grate in a nutmeg and then add the oysters. Serve -it up very hot. - -Another way is to chop or cut small the oysters, omitting the hard part. -Make the soup as above, and put in the minced oysters at the last, -letting them boil but five minutes. Mix the powdered nutmeg with them. -This is a good way, if you make but a small quantity of soup. - - -CLAM SOUP.--Having washed clean the outside shells of a hundred small -sand clams, (or scrubbed them with a brush,) put them into a large pot -of boiling water. When they open their shells take them out with a -ladle, and as you do so, put them into a cullender to drain off the -liquor. Then extract the clams from the shells with a knife. Save a -quart of the liquor, putting the clams in a pitcher by themselves. Mix -with the quart of liquor, in a clean pot, two quarts of rich milk. Put -in the clams, and add some pepper-corns and some blades of mace. Also, a -bunch of sweet marjoram, the leaves stripped off and minced. After all -has boiled well for an hour, add half a pound, or more, of nice fresh -butter, made into little dumplings with flour; also a pint of grated -bread-crumbs. Let it boil a quarter of an hour longer. Then pour the -soup off from the clams and leave them in the bottom of the pot. They -will not now be worth eating. If you cannot obtain small clams, you may -cut large ones in pieces, but they are very coarse and tough. - - -FAST-DAY SOUP.--_For winter._--Having soaked all night two quarts of -split peas, put them into a soup-pot, adding a sliced onion, two heads -of celery, the stalks split and cut small; a table-spoonful of chopped -mint, another of marjoram, and two beets, that have been previously -boiled and sliced. Mix all these with half a pound of fresh butter cut -into pieces and dredged with flour. Season with a little salt and -pepper. Pour on rather more than water enough to cover the whole. Let -them boil till all the things are quite tender, and the peas dissolved. -When done, cover the bottom of a tureen with small square bits of toast, -and pour in the contents of the soup-pot. - -It is a good way to boil the split peas in a pot by themselves, till -they are quite dissolved, and then add them to the ingredients in the -other pot. - -Vegetable soups require a large portion of vegetables, and butter -always, as a substitute for meat. - - -FRIDAY SOUP.--_For summer._--This is a fast-day soup. Pare and slice six -cucumbers, and cut up the white part or heart of six lettuces; slice two -onions, and cut small the leaves of six sprigs of fresh green mint, -unless mint is disliked by the persons that are to eat the soup; in -which case, substitute parsley. Add a quart of young green peas. Put the -whole into a soup-pot, with as much water as will more than cover them -well. Season slightly with salt and a little cayenne, and add half a -pound of nice fresh butter, divided into six, each piece dredged well -with flour. Boil the whole for an hour and a half. Then serve it up, -without straining; having colored it green with a tea-cup of pounded -spinach juice. - -When green peas are out of season, you may substitute tomatos peeled and -quartered. - -This soup, having no meat, is chiefly for fast days, but will be found -good at any time. - - -BAKED SOUP.--On the days that you bake bread, you may have a dish of -thick soup with very little trouble, by putting into a large earthen jug -or pipkin, or covered pan, the following articles:--Two pounds of -_fresh_ beef, or mutton, cut into small slices, having first removed the -fat; two sliced onions and four carrots, and four parsnips cut in four; -also, four turnips, six potatos pared and cut up, and half a dozen -tomatos, peeled and quartered. Season the whole with a little salt and -pepper. A large beet, scraped and cut up, will be an improvement. To -these things pour on three quarts of water. Cover the earthen vessel, -and set it in the oven with the bread, and let the soup bake at the same -time. - -If the bread is done before the dinner hour, you must keep the soup -still longer in the oven. - -Do not use _cold_ meat for this or any other soup, unless you are very -poor. - - - - -FISH. - - -TO CLEAN FISH.--This must always be done with the greatest care and -nicety. If sent to table imperfectly cleaned, they are disgraceful to -the cook, and disgusting to the sight and taste. Handle the fish -lightly; not roughly so as to bruise it. Wash it well, but do not leave -it in the water longer than is needful. It will lose its flavor, and -become insipid, if soaked. To scale it, lay the fish flat upon one side, -holding it firmly in the left hand, and with the right taking off the -scales by means of a knife. When both sides are done, pour sufficient -cold water over it to float off all the loose scales that may have -escaped your notice. It is best to pump on it. Then proceed to open and -empty the fish. Be sure that not the smallest particle of the entrails -is left in. Scrape all carefully from the backbone. Wash out all the -blood from the inside. A dexterous cook can draw a fish without -splitting it entirely down, all the way from head to tail. Smelts and -other small fish are drawn or emptied at the gills. - -All fish should be cleaned or drawn as soon as they are brought in, and -then kept on ice, till the moment for cooking. - - -TO BOIL FISH.--No fish can be fit to eat unless the eyes are prominent -and lively, the gills very red, and the body firm and stiff, springing -back immediately when bent round to try them. Every scale must be -carefully scraped off, and the entrails entirely extracted; not the -smallest portion being carelessly left sticking to the backbone. -Previous to cooking, fish of every kind should be laid in cold water, -and the blood thoroughly washed from the inside. Few fish are not the -better for being put on to boil in cold water, heating gradually with it -till it comes to a boil. If you put it on in boiling water, the outside -becomes boiling hot too soon; and is apt to break and come off in -flakes, while the inside still remains hard and underdone: halibut, -salmon, cod, and other large thick fish must be boiled slowly and -thoroughly throughout, taking nearly as long as meat. Always put salt -into the water at the commencement, and a little vinegar towards the -last. In every kitchen should be a large oval kettle purposely for -boiling fish. This kettle has a movable strainer inside. The fish lies -on the strainer. To try if it is done, run a thin sharp knife in it, -till it reaches the backbone; and see if the flesh will loosen or -separate easily. If it adheres to the bone it requires more boiling. -When quite done, leave it no longer in the kettle, or it will lose its -flavor and get a woolly look. Take out the strainer with the fish upon -it. Drain off the water through the strainer, cover the fish with a -folded napkin or fine towel, doubled thick; transfer it to a heated -dish, and keep it warm and dry till it goes to table, directly after the -soup. In the mean time prepare the sauce to be served up along with the -fish. - - -FRYING FISH.--Fish should be fried in _very good_ fresh butter, or nice -beef drippings; or else in lard, which last, is the most usual method. A -large allowance of lard should be put into the pan, and held over a -clear fire, till it becomes so hot as to boil fast in the pan. Till the -lard hisses and bubbles do not put in the fish. They must first be dried -separately in a clean cloth, and then scored on the back in deep -incisions, or gashes, and slightly dredged with flour. Unless the lard -is amply sufficient in quantity to cover the fish well, and bear them up -towards the surface, they will sink heavily to the bottom of the pan, -and perhaps stick there and burn. Also, if there is not fat enough, the -fish will absorb the whole of what there is, and become dark-colored and -greasy. - - -BAKED FISH.--This is a dish for company. You may bake in the same manner -a shad, a fresh codfish, a sheep's head, a white fish, or a blue fish, -or a pair of large black fish. Trout also are considered fish for -baking. Cut off the head, and split the fish nearly down to the tail. -For a stuffing, cut two slices of nice light wheat bread, of shape and -size to fit easily into the inside of the fish, and spread them thickly -with very new fresh butter. Season them with cayenne and powdered mace, -and moisten them with port wine or sherry. Add the juice and yellow rind -of a lemon, grated; and sufficient powdered white sugar to take off the -extreme acid of the last. Fill the body of the fish with this stuffing, -kept in by tying round the fish, carefully, a white cotton cord, or -tape, so as to confine it in several places. Lay bits of fresh butter -over the outside, at equal distances. Place the fish on a trivet, in a -bake pan, and pour round it a pint of wine and water mixed. Baste it -with this frequently while baking. It will require at least an hour in a -quick oven. If the basting does not leave sufficient gravy, add half a -pint more of wine mixed with a little hot water. - -When you have taken up the fish, keep it hot while you are finishing the -gravy, which you should thicken and enrich by stirring in smoothly a -piece of butter mixed slightly into a paste with flour, and seasoned -with grated nutmeg. Serve up the gravy in a sauce-boat, and lay slices -of lemon along the back of the fish, having, of course, removed the -string that was wound around it to confine the stuffing. Send to table -with the baked fish, a dish of potatos mashed with milk and butter, and -browned on the surface with a salamander, or a red hot shovel. Always -remove the seeds of lemon slices. Fresh mackerel may be baked thus. - -Fish may be baked plainly, with a stuffing of sweet marjoram, minced -sage, and onion, (previously boiled and drained,) a little butter, or -finely chopped beef suet, and plenty of grated bread crumbs, seasoned -with a little black pepper. Or instead of crumbs you may put in slices -of bread and butter soaked in milk, and secured as above from falling -out while the fish is baking. - - -STEWED FISH.--Take any nice fresh fish of moderate size, and when it is -drawn and washed, cut it into three or four pieces, and put them into a -stew-pan with amply sufficient hot water to keep them from burning. -Season them with a little salt and cayenne. After it has simmered -steadily for half an hour, and been skimmed, have ready a quarter of a -pound of fresh butter, mixed into a smooth paste with a heaped -table-spoonful of flour. Add this to the stew, with a bunch of sweet -marjoram chopped fine, and a sprig of chopped parsley. If approved, add -a small onion pared and sliced very thin. Cover it closely, and let it -stew another half hour. Then send it to table. This is a family dish. -Any fresh fish may be stewed thus. - - -SPICED FISH.--Cold fish that has been left at dinner is very nice to put -away for the supper table. It should be fresh salmon, fresh cod, -rock-fish, halibut, or the remains of any other large fine fish. Take -out the back bone, and cut the flesh into moderate sized pieces. Lay it -in a deep dish that has a cover. Season the fish with cayenne pepper, a -little salt, some grated nutmeg, and some blades of mace; also some -whole black pepper-corns, and pour over it plenty of good cider vinegar. -Tarragon vinegar will be an improvement. Cover it closely, and set it in -a cold place till wanted. If in spring or summer, set it in ice. - -We do not recommend cloves or allspice. The taste of those coarse spices -is so overpowering, (and to many persons so unpleasant,) that they are -now nearly out of use at good tables. - -Nutmeg, mace and ginger, will be found much better, and with cinnamon -occasionally, are sufficient for all spice seasonings. Nevertheless, for -those who like them, a few cloves will relieve the insipidity of -halibut. - - -FISH CAKES.--Take codfish (either fresh or salt) that has been boiled -the day before. Carefully remove the bones, and mince the flesh. Mix -with it a quantity of warm mashed potatos, (mashed with butter and milk) -in the proportion of one third codfish, and two thirds mashed potatos. -Add sufficient beaten egg to make the whole into a smooth paste. Season -it with cayenne; and, if the mixture seems dry, moisten and enrich it -with a little butter. Make it into cakes about an inch thick, and as -large round as the top of a common sized tea-cup. Or into round balls. -Sprinkle them well with flour. - -Fry them in lard, or beef-drippings. When one side is done turn them -over. Drain them, and send them to the breakfast table. If approved, you -may add to the mixture two or three onions boiled and minced. Any large -cold fish may be dressed in this manner for next morning's breakfast. - - -ROCK-FISH.--Rock-fish are generally plain boiled, (with the heads and -tails left on,) and they are eaten with egg sauce, (hard boiled eggs -chopped, and mixed with melted or drawn butter,) seasoned with a little -cayenne. Put on the side of your plate, any nice fish sauce from the -castors. Some serve up rock-fish with hard boiled eggs, cut into halves, -and laid closely in a row along the back of the fish; half an egg being -helped to each person. Cold butter is then eaten with it. We think this -a very nice way. - -Blue fish, white fish, and black fish, may be drest in this manner. -Also, sea-bass. - - -BLACK FISH AND SEA-BASS--Are all boiled in the same manner, having first -carefully scaled, and drawn, and well washed them. In drawing fish take -care that the whole of the inside is nicely scraped from the back-bone, -all along. When ready, dredge a clean soft cloth with flour, wrap the -fish in it; lay it on the strainer of a fish-kettle, and put it in -plenty of water, into which has been thrown a small table-spoonful of -salt. Keep it steadily boiling near half an hour. Take it carefully out -of the cloth, drain it on the strainer, and keep it warm. Send to table -with it egg-sauce. - -Eat mashed potatos with it. - -_Frying._--To fry the above fish,--cut them in two or three pieces; wash -them and wipe them dry; score them with deep cuts, and season with -cayenne and a little salt--dredge them with flour, and fry them brown in -a pan nearly full of boiling lard. - -Any fish may be fried in this manner. - - -FRESH COD.--A fine codfish should be very thick about the neck; the eyes -lively; the gills red; and the flesh firm and white. If flabby, it is -not good. It is in season from October till May. After scaling, -emptying, washing, and drying, cover it, and let it rest for an hour. -Then put it on in a fish-kettle of _cold_ water, (hard water if you can -procure it,) throw in a small handful of salt, and let the cod heat -gradually, skimming it well. Boil it gently, but steadily, till -thoroughly done. Then, take it out of the kettle, drain it, and keep it -warm till ready to go to table. No fish should be allowed to remain in -the water after the boiling is quite over. Serve it up with oyster or -lobster sauce. - -You may broil fresh cod in steaks, or fry it in cutlets. For frying -fish, you may use beef or veal drippings, with the fat skimmed off -carefully. Mutton fat (which is tallow) is unfit for all cookery. - - -TROUT.--Trout is considered a very nice fish, and is in season in the -summer. When fresh it is a fine flesh color, and its spots are very -bright. To fry trout, dry them in a cloth. Score them deeply, and touch -each incision or cut with a little cayenne. Dredge them with flour. -Grate some bread-crumbs very fine, and in another pan beat some eggs -very light and thick. Dip each fish twice in the egg, and twice in the -crumbs, and fry them in plenty of boiling lard, or in a mixture of lard -and fresh butter. When done, drain them, and send them to table with a -dish of cucumbers sliced and dressed in the usual way, with vinegar, -pepper and salt. - -If boiled, serve them up with egg sauce. If broiled, eat them with cold -butter and cayenne. - - -STEWED TROUT.--This is a dish for company. Mix together as much cold -water and sweet white wine, in equal quantities, as will well cover the -fish. When done, take them out of the stew pan, drain them, and keep -them hot while you prepare the gravy. For this, thicken the liquid with -a piece of fresh butter divided into four, each bit rolled in flour; and -add two or more well-beaten eggs, and season with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Mix all this together, give it one boil up, and pour it over the -trout, after they are dished for table. - - -BAKED TROUT.--Having cleaned the trout, wrap each fish in a very thin -slice of bacon, sprinkled with minced sweet marjoram, and seasoned with -cayenne and mace. Inclose each fish in a white paper, cut larger than to -fit exactly. Fasten the papers with strings or pins, to be removed -before the fish goes to table. Lay the trout in a square tin pan, and -bake them in the papers, which must be taken off when the fish are done; -but serve them up with the bacon round them or not, as you please. - - -SALT COD.--The afternoon before the fish is to be eaten, put it to soak -in plenty of cold water. Cover it, and let it stand in a warm place all -night. In the morning pour off that water, wash the fish clean, and -scrub the outside with a brush. Put it into a kettle with cold water -sufficient to cover it well; and let it boil fast till near dinner time, -skimming it well. About half an hour before dinner, pour off this -boiling water, and substitute a sufficiency of cold. In this last water -give the fish one boil up. Send it to table with egg sauce, made with -plenty of butter, and hard-boiled eggs cut in half, and laid closely -along the back of the fish, to be helped with it. Accompany the cod with -a plate of sliced beets drest with vinegar. - -Next morning you may take what is left, and having removed all the bone, -mince the fish, and mix it with an equal quantity of mashed potatos, -adding some butter, pepper, and raw egg. Make the whole into balls or -flat cakes, and fry them in drippings or lard. They are good at -breakfast. On every one put a small spot of pepper. - - -FRIED SMELTS.--The smelt is a very nice little fish, which has a -peculiarly sweet and delicate flavor of its own, that requires, to be -tasted in perfection, no other cooking than plain broiling or frying in -fresh lard. Do not wash them, but wipe them dry in a clean cloth; having -opened and drawn them, (they should be drawn through the gills,) and cut -off the heads and tails, dredge them with flour. The frying-pan must be -more than two-thirds full of boiling lard; boiling hard when the smelts -are put in, so as to float them on the surface. If there is not -sufficient lard, or if it is not boiling, the fish will sink and be dark -colored, and greasy. About ten minutes are sufficient for the small -ones, and fifteen for those of a larger size. When done, drain off the -lard and send them to the breakfast table on a hot dish. - -If you prefer retaining the heads and tails, dish them, alternately, -with the heads up and tails down. - - -FRIED CAT-FISH.--The best cat-fish are the small ones. If too large, -they are generally coarse and strong. They must be cooked quite fresh; -if possible, directly out of the water. They are very popular at fishing -parties. Wash and clean them, cutting off their heads and tails, and -removing the upper part of the back-bone, near the shoulders. Score them -along the back, with deep gashes or incisions. Dredge them with flour, -and fry them in plenty of lard, boiling fast when the cat-fish are put -into the pan. Or, you may fry them in the drippings or gravy saved from -roast beef, or veal. They are very nice dipped in a batter of beaten egg -and grated bread-crumbs, or they may be done in a plain, though not so -nice a way, with indian meal instead of bread-crumbs. Drain off the lard -before you dish them. Touch each incision or cut, _very slightly_, with -a little cayenne before they go to table. - -Cat-fish are a breakfast dish, and are also eaten at supper. Porgie and -tutaug are cooked in this manner. - -Any fish may be fried as above, when not split open. - - -FINE CHOWDER.--This is Commodore Stovens's receipt:--Take four -table-spoonfuls of minced onions that have been fried with slices of -salt pork; two pilot-biscuits broken up; one table-spoonful of minced -sweet marjoram, and one of sweet basil; a quarter of a bottle of -mushroom catchup; half a bottle of port wine; half a nutmeg grated; a -few cloves, and mace, and pepper-corns; six pounds of fresh cod, and -sea-bass, cut in slices. Put the whole into a pot, with water enough to -cover it about an inch. Boil it steadily for an hour, carefully stirring -it. Serve it up hot in a large deep dish. - -Chowder may be made as above, substituting clams for the cod. The clams -must be chopped small. You may, for variety, make chowder with oysters, -or with boiled lobsters, or crabs; always beginning the mixture with -pork fried with onions. - - -YANKEE CHOWDER.--Having sliced very thin some salt fat pork, season it -with pepper, lay it in the bottom of a large iron pot, set it over the -fire, and let it fry. When done, take out the pork, leaving the liquid -fat in the bottom. Next, peel and slice some onions, and lay them on the -fat. Pour in sufficient clam or oyster liquor to stew the onions. Have -ready a sufficient quantity of sea-bass, black fish, tutaug, porgie, -haddock, or fresh cod. Cut the fish in small pieces, and put it into the -pot. Add plenty of potatos pared and quartered. Then some clam liquor; -and lastly, some crackers, (soaked and split,) or some soda biscuit; the -crackers to cover the top. If you wish to fill a large pot, repeat all -these ingredients, arranging them in layers. If there is not gravy -enough, add some boiling milk, poured in at the last, and enriched with -bits of butter mixed with flour. Cover the pot closely, and let it stew -half an hour, or more, till all the contents are thoroughly done. You -may bake the chowder in an iron oven, over a wood fire, heaping live -coals on the oven lid. - - -CLAM CHOWDER.--Put into boiling water from fifty to a hundred of the -small sand clams; and when all their shells have opened, take them out, -as they are then sufficiently boiled. Extract all the hard, or tough, -uneatable part, and throw it away. Slice thin as much salt pork as, when -fried in the bottom of a large pot, will produce half a pint of liquid -or gravy. Take out all the pork, leaving the liquid in the pot. Add to -it a layer of clams. Then a layer of biscuit soaked in milk or warm -water. Next another layer of clams; then another layer of soaked -biscuit; then more clams. Season it with pepper and mace. If there is no -objection to onions, add three or four boiled and sliced, and some -minced marjoram. Also, some potatos, boiled, peeled, and quartered. Let -the last layer be clams, and then cover the whole with a good paste, and -bake it in an iron oven, or boil it in an iron pot. - -Chowder of fresh codfish, halibut, sea-bass, or any other good fish, is -made as above. Halibut requires a much larger portion of seasoning, and -a little more pork. Though very large and therefore very profitable, it -is in itself the most tasteless of all fish. Plain boiled halibut is not -worth eating. - - -SALMON.--In choosing a salmon, see that the gills are a fine red, the -eyes full, the scales clear, and the whole fish stiff; the flesh being -of the peculiar red known as salmon-color. Between the flakes is a -substance called the curd, which gives it firmness. By keeping, this -substance melts down and the flesh becomes soft. A salmon can only be -eaten in perfection on the sea-coast where it was caught, and on the -same day. To transport it any distance, it must be enclosed in a box, -and well packed in ice. In America, salmon is found in the greatest -perfection on the coast of Maine, in the Kennebec. Very fine ones are -brought to Boston market. They also abound on the coasts of California -and Oregon. The American salmon is much larger than those of Europe. It -is so fine a fish that its own flavor is better than any that can be -communicated except by the most simple sauce. It requires as much -boiling as meat, that is, a quarter of an hour for every pound. It is in -season from May till August or September. - -The lake salmon is good, but inferior to that of the ocean, in size, -richness, and color. - -In boiling a large fish, to judge if it is done, draw up the strainer or -fish-plate, and with a thin knife try if the flesh separates easily from -the bone. If you can loosen it immediately, it is cooked enough. It -injures a fish to let it get cool in the water. - - -BOILED SALMON.--After carefully emptying the salmon, wash it very clean -from the blood inside, and remove the scales. To preserve the fine color -of the salmon, or to set the curd or creamy substance between the -flakes, it should be put into boiling water, allowing to a gallon of -water a handful of salt. After the water has been boiling a few minutes, -and has been skimmed, put in the fish, (laying it on the drainer,) and -let it boil moderately fast, skimming it well. It must be thoroughly -boiled. Underdone fish of every kind is disgusting and unwholesome. -Before it is taken from the fish kettle ascertain if it is sufficiently -cooked, by trying if the back-bone easily loosens from the flesh. A -quarter of an hour may be allowed for each pound, for a large thick -salmon requires as much cooking as meat. When you take it up, drain it -well, and serve it up immediately. Have ready some lobster sauce, or -shrimp, if more convenient. To make it, mince the meat of a boiled -lobster, mashing the coral with it, and mix it with melted or drawn -butter, made very thick, and having but a very small portion of water. -For shrimp sauce, boil the shrimps, take off their heads, and squeeze -out their bodies from the shells. Thicken with them the drawn butter. -Nothing should go with salmon that will interfere with the flavor of -this fine fish, or give it any taste that will overpower or weaken its -own. - -Many prefer salmon with nothing more than cold butter spread on after it -is helped. We think, ourselves, that when the butter is very good, it is -not improved (for salmon) by the addition of flour and water; and a very -little is sufficient. You need use nothing from the castors except -cayenne. - -It is usual to eat cucumbers with salmon, and no other vegetables; the -cucumbers to be pared, sliced, laid in cold water, and dressed, and -served up by themselves, with a little plate for each person, that the -vinegar, &c., of the cucumbers may not impart too much acid to the -salmon. - -In places remote from the sea, a whole salmon is seldom seen at table -but at dinner parties, or at good hotels. In a very hot climate it -should not be seen at all. When in season, it can be bought in any -quantity by the pound, for a small family. For a small dinner company, -from four to six pounds will suffice. - -Cook salmon-trout in the same manner. Large fish should be helped with a -silver fish trowel. - - -ROASTED SALMON.--Take a large piece of fine fresh salmon, cut from the -middle of the fish, well cleaned and carefully scaled. Wipe it dry in a -clean coarse cloth. Then dredge it with flour, put it on the spit, and -place it before a clear bright fire. Baste it with fresh butter, and -roast it well; seeing that it is thoroughly done to the bone. Serve it -up plain; garnishing the dish with slices of lemon, as many persons like -a little lemon-juice with salmon. This mode of cooking salmon will be -found excellent. A small one, or a salmon-trout, may be roasted whole. - - -BAKED SALMON.--A small salmon may be baked whole. Stuff it with -forcemeat made of bread-crumbs; chopped oysters, or minced lobster; -butter, cayenne, a little salt, and powdered mace,--all mixed well, and -moistened with beaten yolk of egg. Bend the salmon round, and put the -tail into the mouth, fastening it with a skewer. Put it into a large -deep dish; lay bits of butter on it at small intervals; and set it into -the oven. While baking, look at it occasionally, and baste it with the -butter. When one side is well browned, turn it carefully in the dish, -and add more butter. Bake it till the other side is well browned. Then -transfer it to another dish with the gravy that is about it, and send it -to table. - -If you bake salmon in slices, reserve the forcemeat for the outside. Dip -each slice first in beaten yolk of egg, and then in the forcemeat, till -it is well coated. - - -BROILED SALMON.--Wash carefully all traces of blood from the inside of -the fish. Cut it into rather thick slices, or fillets. Dry them in a -clean cloth, and dredge them with flour. Chalk the bars of the gridiron, -or grease them with lard or suet, or the dripping of beef or veal, to -prevent the fish from sticking. Let the fire be a bed of clear bright -hot coals. Broil the slices well on both sides; and when done, transfer -them to a hot dish, and lay a bit of fresh butter on each, and season -them a little with cayenne. - -Fresh codfish may be cut into steaks, and broiled as above. - -Also halibut, or any other large fish. - -Serve up shrimp or lobster sauce, with all cutlets or steaks of large -fish. - - -FRIED SALMON CUTLETS.--Having washed, dried and floured the cutlets, put -near a pound of fresh lard into a frying pan, set it over a clear brisk -fire till it boils fast. Have ready a marinade or dressing made of -grated bread-crumbs, chopped sweet-marjoram, beaten yolks of eggs, and -powdered mace--all well mixed. Dip each cutlet into this marinade twice -over, and fry them. There must be plenty of lard, so that the cutlets -may float on its surface instead of sinking to the bottom, and becoming -dark, heavy, and greasy. When they are done, take them up with a -perforated skimmer, draining off the lard as you do so. Lay them on a -hot dish, and keep them hot till wanted. Serve up with them mashed -potatos made into flat cakes, and browned with a salamander or red hot -shovel. - -Fresh codfish cutlets may be fried in this manner. - -You may broil halibut as above. Halibut is too insipid for boiling. - - -PICKLED SALMON.--Clean a fine fresh salmon, and remove the bones. Cut -off the head, fins, and tail. Fish, to be pickled, should (instead of -washing) be wiped, and rubbed with a clean dry cloth. Cut it into steaks -or cutlets. Put it into a stone-ware jar with a close cover. A broad low -jar will be best. Sprinkle it with salt, and cayenne. Add some grains of -whole black pepper, and some blades of mace, seasoning it highly to make -it keep well. Fill up the jar with the best cider vinegar, set it in a -moderate oven, and bake it till thoroughly done; adding more vinegar, if -it seems too dry. Then cover the jar very closely, with the lid--if -there is the smallest crack, paste all round a fillet of strong, white -paper. Whenever you open the jar to take out some of the salmon for use, -add some fresh vinegar. Keep the jar in a dry cool place. If properly -done, and well seasoned, it will keep several months. - - -BROILED FRESH MACKEREL.--Mackerel cannot be eaten too fresh, as no fish -spoils so soon; for which reason in England mackerel is permitted to be -sold on Sundays. We have heard in London the fishwomen crying it about -the streets on Sunday morning before church time. And even then it is -far inferior to mackerel taken immediately out of the sea, at the places -on the coast. It is generally broiled, as no other cooking seems to suit -it, and draw forth its true flavor. Split your mackerel, remove the -bone, and cut off the heads and tails. Dredge them on both sides with -flour, and sprinkle the inside with black pepper and a little salt. Have -your gridiron very hot, over a clear fire, and grease the bars with -lard, or chalk them to prevent the fish from sticking. Broil them well -on both sides, and when they are done, and very hot, lay some bits of -fresh butter upon them. Cover to keep them warm, and send them to table -as soon as possible. They are a fine breakfast fish, and good at a plain -dinner. For sauce, cold butter is all that is necessary, but you may mix -with it, chopped parsley, or minced fennel. At the best English tables, -stewed _gooseberries_, pulped through a sieve and sweetened, is the -fashionable sauce for broiled mackerel, or lemon-juice is squeezed -profusely over the fish. To this the lovers of fruit with every thing, -will not object. - -If a mackerel is fresh, the eyes will be full and lively, the gills very -red, and the stripes or bars on the back a very dark color, (nearly -black,) and strongly marked; and the body thick. If thin and flat below -the shoulders, the eyes sunk, the gills pale, and the dark stripes dull -and indistinct, the fish is unfit to eat. - - -FRIED MACKEREL.--For frying, take small mackerel, as fresh as possible. -Wash them, dry them in a clean cloth, and score them deeply in the back, -making several deep cuts. Season them with a little salt and pepper. Go -over them with beaten egg, and then cover them thickly with grated -bread-crumbs; which, for this purpose, are superior to indian meal or -pounded crackers. Fry them in boiling lard, and dish them hot. Send them -to table with a dish of potatos sliced and fried in butter. - -Any fish may be fried in this manner. If large, cut it into pieces. - - -FRIED HALIBUT.--There is a great deal of eating in a halibut, as it is a -fish of immense size, and has only the back bone. It is sold in pieces -of any weight or quantity, and is exceedingly white and delicate in -appearance. But it is so very insipid, that when _boiled_ it has no -taste at all. Therefore it is always broiled or fried, except at tables -where economy is the chief consideration. If broiled, it is done in the -same manner as any other large fish, but to make it palatable requires -something to give it a little taste. - -To fry halibut--take a piece from the middle of the fish, wash it very -carefully, and dry it in a clean cloth. Then cut it into thick fillets, -extracting the bone, which is easily done with a sharp knife, loosening -the flesh from the bone, and raising it as you proceed. Remove the skin. -You may also cut the fillets into slices about an inch thick. Season -with cayenne, and a very little salt. Cover them slightly with nice -butter. Have ready in one pan plenty of grated bread-crumbs; in another -a sufficiency of beaten yolk of egg, seasoned with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Dip the slices first into the egg, then into the pan of -bread-crumbs. Do this twice over, to every slice. Have ready over the -fire a hot frying pan full of _boiling_ lard. Put in the slices and fry -them well. When one side is done, turn the other. When all are done, -take them from the frying pan with a perforated skimmer, and drain them. -Keep them hot between two heated dishes. - -Cooked in this manner, the halibut will be sufficiently flavored and is -a profitable fish. - -Instead of frying, the halibut steaks may be broiled over a clear fire, -on a grooved gridiron. Having first buttered it, dip each steak, as -above, in bread-crumbs and egg, and lay upon each steak a large tomato -opened, and stuffed with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs seasoned with -butter, pepper, and mace. This will be found a very nice way of cooking -halibut. Fresh cod may be done in the same manner. - -Cold halibut is sometimes drest as salad for the tea-table. - - -BOILED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S-HEAD FISH.--Having cleaned and washed the fish, -soak it an hour or two in salt and water to draw off the slime. Then let -it lie half an hour or more in cold water. Afterwards drain, and wipe it -dry. Score the back deeply with a knife. The whiteness of the fish will -be improved by rubbing it over with a cut lemon. The fish kettle must be -large, and nicely clean. Lay the fish with its back downward, on the -strainer of the kettle. Cover it well with cold water, (milk and water -in equal portions will be better still,) and add a small spoonful of -salt. Do not let it come to a boil too fast, and skim it carefully. When -the scum has ceased to rise, diminish the heat under the kettle, and let -it simmer for about half an hour or more; not allowing it to boil hard. -When the fish is done, take it up carefully with a fish-slice; and -having prepared the sauce, pour it over the fish and send it to table -hot. - -For the sauce, mix together very smoothly, with a broad-bladed knife, a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and two table-spoonfuls of flour. -Put them into a clean sauce-pan, and hold it over the fire, and stir -them till melted. Then add a large salt-spoonful of powdered mace, and -as much cayenne as will lie on a sixpence. It will be much improved by -the addition of some boiled lobster, chopped small. When the sauce has -simmered five minutes, add very gradually half a pint of rich cream, and -let it come almost to a boil, stirring all the time. After the fish is -taken up, pour the sauce over it hot. Or you may send it to table in a -sauce-boat. In this case ornament the fish with the coral of the lobster -put on in a handsome figure. - -Another way of dressing this fish is, after it has been boiled, to set -it on ice to get cold; and then, having carefully removed the bones, cut -the flesh into small squares, put it into a stew-pan, and having mixed -the above sauce, add it to the fish, and let it stew slowly in the -sauce; but do not let it come to a boil. When thoroughly hot, take it -up, and send it to table in a deep dish. - - -BAKED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S-HEAD FISH.--Having cleaned the fish, soak it an -hour or two in salt and water, and afterwards wash it well through two -or three fresh waters. Then dry it in a clean towel. Score it deeply -across the back; and then lay it in a deep white baking-dish. Mix -together a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg; add a -salt-spoon of cayenne; a few sprigs of sweet marjoram and sweet basil, -finely minced; two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter; and two -table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs. Stir this mixture into a pint of -rich cream. Pour this marinade over the fish, cover it, and let it stand -half an hour. Then bake it in the marinade; and send it hot to table. - -If the fish is too large to be baked whole, cut it into fillets, -extracting the bone. - -Salmon-trout may be baked in this manner. - - -SEA BASS WITH TOMATOS.--Take three large fine sea-bass, or black-fish. -Cut off their heads and tails, and fry the fish in plenty of lard till -about half done. Have ready a pint of tomatos, that have been pickled -cold in vinegar flavored with a muslin bag of mixed spices. Drain the -tomatos well from the vinegar; skin them, and mash them in a pan; -dredging them with about as much flour as would fill a large table-spoon -heaped up. Pour the mixture over the fish while in the frying pan; and -continue frying till they are thoroughly done. - -Cutlets of halibut may be fried in this manner with tomatos: also, any -other pan-fish. - -Beef-steaks or lamb-chops are excellent fried thus with tomatos. - - -BAKED SALMON-TROUT.--Having cleaned the fish, and laid it two hours in -weak salt and water, dry it in a cloth, and then rub both the inside and -outside with a seasoning of cayenne pepper, powdered mace, nutmeg, and -a little salt, mixed well together. Then lay it in a deep baking-pan, -turn the tail round into the mouth, and stick bits of fresh butter -thickly over the fish. Put it into an oven, and bake it well; basting it -frequently with the liquid that will soon surround it. When you suppose -it to be nearly done, try it by sticking down to the backbone a -thin-bladed knife. When you find that the flesh separates immediately -from the bone, it is done sufficiently. Serve it up with lobster-sauce. - -Any large fresh fish may be baked in this way. - - -CREAM TROUT.--Having prepared the trout very nicely, and cut off the -heads and tails, put the fish into boiling water that has been slightly -salted, and simmer them for five minutes. Then take them out, and lay -them to drain. Put them into a stew-pan, and season them well with -powdered mace, nutmeg, and a little cayenne, all mixed together. Put in -as much rich cream as will cover the fish, adding the fresh yellow rind -of a small lemon, grated. Keep the pan covered, and let the fish stew -for about ten minutes after it has begun to simmer. Then dish the fish, -and keep them hot till you have finished the sauce. Mix, very smoothly, -a small table-spoonful of arrow-root, the juice of the lemon, and two -table-spoonfuls of sugar, and stir it into the cream. Pour the sauce -over the fish, and then send them to table. - -Turbot or sheep's-head fish may be dressed as above; of course it will -require a larger proportion of seasoning, &c., and longer time to cook. - -Carp is very nice stewed in this manner. - - -STEWED CODFISH.--Take fine _fresh_ cod, and cut it into slices an inch -thick, separated from the bones. Lay the pieces of fish in the bottom of -a stew-pan: season them with grated nutmeg; half a dozen blades of mace; -a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper; and a small saucer full of chopped -celery; or a bunch of sweet herbs tied together. Add a pint of oyster -liquor, and the juice of a lemon. Cover it close, and let it stew gently -till the fish is almost done, shaking the pan frequently. Then take a -piece of fresh butter the size of an egg; roll it in flour, and add it -to the stew. Also, put in two dozen large fine oysters, with what liquor -there is about them. Cover it again; quicken the fire a little, and let -the whole continue to stew five minutes longer. Before you send it to -table, remove the bunch of sweet herbs. - -Rock-fish may be stewed in this manner. Fresh salmon also. - - -FRIED CODFISH.--Take the middle or tail part of a fresh codfish, and cut -it into slices not quite an inch thick, first removing the skin. Season -them with a little salt and cayenne pepper. Have ready in one dish some -beaten yolk of egg, and in another some grated bread-crumbs. Dip each -slice of fish twice into the egg, and then twice into the crumbs. Fry -them in fresh butter, and serve them up with the gravy about them. - -Halibut may be fried as above. - - -STEWED HALIBUT.--Cut the fish into pieces about four inches square, of -course omitting the bone. Season it very slightly with salt, and let it -rest for half an hour. Then take it out of the salt, put it into a large -deep dish, and strew over it a mixture of cayenne pepper, ground white -ginger, and grated nutmeg. Lay among it some small bits of fresh butter -rolled in grated bread. Add half a pint of vinegar, (tarragon vinegar if -you have it.) Place the dish in a slow oven, and let the halibut cook -till thoroughly done, basting it very _frequently_ with the liquid. When -nearly done, add a large table-spoonful or more of capers, or pickled -nasturtions. - -Halibut is a very insipid fish; but this mode of cooking will give it -taste. - - -STEWED ROCK-FISH.--Take a large rock-fish, and cut it in slices near an -inch thick. Sprinkle it _very slightly_ with salt, and let it remain for -half an hour. Slice very thin half a dozen large onions. Put them into a -stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut into bits. Set -them over a slow fire, and stir them continually till they are quite -soft, taking care not to let them become brown. Then put in the sliced -fish in layers; seasoning each layer with a mixture of white ground -ginger, cayenne pepper, and grated nutmeg; add some chopped parsley, and -some bits of butter rolled in flour. Pour in a pint of water, and, if -you choose, a wine-glass of vinegar, (tarragon vinegar will be best.[B]) -Set it over a good fire and let it cook about an hour. When done, take -out the fish carefully, to avoid breaking the slices. Lay it in a deep -dish that has been made hot, and cover it immediately. Have ready the -beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir them into the gravy. Give it one boil up; -and then either pour it over the fish, or serve it up in a sauce-boat. - - [B] To make this vinegar--half fill a bottle with tarragon leaves, and - fill it quite up with the best cider vinegar. Cork it tightly, and do - not remove the tarragon, but let it remain always at the bottom. The - flavor is very fine. - -Halibut, fresh cod, or any other large fish may be stewed in this -manner. - - -TO KEEP A SHAD FRESH.--By the following process, (which we can highly -recommend from experience,) a shad may be kept twenty-four hours, or -indeed longer, so as to be perfectly fresh in taste and appearance. For -instance, if brought _fresh_ from market on Saturday morning, it may be -broiled for breakfast on Sunday, and will seem like a fresh shad just -from the water. Immediately on bringing it in, let it be scaled, -cleaned, washed, split, and wiped dry; cutting off the head and tail. -Spread the shad open on a large flat dish. Mix well together in a cup, a -heaped table-spoonful of brown sugar; a heaped tea-spoonful of cayenne -pepper, and a tea-spoonful of fine salt; and then rub the mixture, -thoroughly and evenly, all over the inside of the fish; which, of -course, must be spread with the skin or outside downward. Cover it -closely with a large tin cover or with another dish, and set it -immediately on ice or in a very cold place, and let it rest till next -morning, or till it is wanted for cooking. Immediately before you put it -on the gridiron, take a clean towel and carefully wipe off the _whole of -the seasoning_, not letting a particle of it remain round the edges, or -anywhere else. Then put the shad on a previously heated gridiron, over -hot coals, and broil it well. Butter it, and send it hot to table, where -every one can season it again, according to their taste. - - -PLANKED SHAD.--This is the best way of cooking shad when in perfection, -just out of the river; and it is much in use at fishing party dinners. A -board or plank, about three inches thick and two feet square, must be -provided for the purpose. This plank should be of well-seasoned oak or -hickory, and very clean. A pine board will very soon catch fire and -burn; besides communicating to the fish a taste of turpentine or rosin. -Take a very fine shad, and (having cut off the head and tail,) split it -down the back, clean it, wash it well, and wipe it dry. Sprinkle it -with salt, and cayenne. Stand up the board before the fire till it -becomes very hot, and almost begins to char. Then nail to the hot board -the spread-open shad, with the back or skin-side next to the plank, -securing it with a few nails, not driven in so hard that they cannot -easily be drawn out. Begin to roast it with the head downward. After a -while turn the other end of the plank, so as to place the tail downward. -Turn it frequently up or down, that the juices of the fish may be -equally dispersed throughout. When done, butter it with fresh butter, -and send it to table on the board; under which, place a large dish or -tray. Help it to the company off the plank. This mode of cooking a shad -will be found superior to all others; and is so generally liked, that -two at least will be required, one at each end of the table. It is much -enjoyed by parties who have dinners on the banks of the river, and -bespeak of the fishermen shad just out of the water. - -Lake salmon may be cooked in this manner on a plank. Also, blue fish, -and the lake white fish. - -At the principal household stores, shad-boards of oak are now to be -purchased ready made. The cost is from a dollar to seventy-five cents. -They are very strong and smooth, and furnished with thick wires crossing -the board diagonally. Behind these the fish is to slip in without -nailing. They are much used, and we advise every house-keeper to get -one. We see very nice ones at Carryl's Furnishing Store, Chestnut -street, Philadelphia. - - - - -SHELL FISH. - - -TO CHOOSE OYSTERS.--Insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes -firmly on the knife, the oysters are fresh. If it shuts slowly and -faintly, or not at all, they are dying, or dead. When the shells of raw -oysters are found gaping open they are fit for nothing but to throw -away, and should not have been seen in the market, as they are quite -dead and decomposition has commenced. Clams the same. - - -TO FEED OYSTERS.--When it is necessary to keep oysters a day or two -before they are cooked, they must be kept clean and fed, otherwise they -will die and spoil. Put them into a large tub of clean water; wash from -them the mud and sand, and scrub them with a birch broom. Then pour off -_that_ water, and give them a clean tubful, placing the oysters with the -deep or large side downward, and sprinkling them well, with salt mixed -with it, allowing about a pint of salt to every two gallons of water. -But if you have a very large quantity of oysters, add to the salt and -water several handfuls of indian meal. Repeat this every twelve hours, -with fresh water and meal. Always at the time of high water, oysters may -be seen to open their shells, as if in expectation of their accustomed -food. If this is carefully continued, they will remain plump and -healthy for two days. - -Terrapins also, and other shell fish, should have the salt and water -changed every twelve hours, and be fed with corn meal. - -Turtle must also be well fed, and allowed salted water to swim in. - - -STEWED OYSTERS.--Get two hundred or more fine large fresh oysters. Drain -them from their liquor, (saving it in a pitcher,) and put them into a -stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and set them over -the fire. When they have simmered, and have almost come to a boil, -remove them from the fire; and have ready a pan of very cold water. Take -out the oysters, (one at a time, on a fork,) and put them into the cold -water. This will plump them, and render them firm. Having saved about -half their liquor, put it into the stew-pan, seasoned well with blades -of mace, grated nutmeg, whole pepper-corns, and a little cayenne. Stir -in half a pint or more of thick rich cream; and if you cannot procure -cream, an equal quantity of nice fresh butter divided into bits, -slightly dredged with a very little flour. Boil the liquor by itself, -and when it comes to a boil, take the oysters out of the cold water, and -put them into the boiling liquor. In five minutes remove the pan from -the fire, (the oysters having simmered,) and transfer them to a tureen -or deep dish, in the bottom of which has been laid a buttered toast, -that has previously been dipped a minute in hot water or milk. - - -FRENCH STEWED OYSTERS.--Wash fifty fine large oysters in their own -liquor, then strain it into a stew-pan, putting the oysters in a pan of -cold water. Season the liquor with a large glass or half a pint of white -wine, (sherry or Madeira,) the juice of two lemons, six or seven blades -of mace, and a small grated nutmeg. Boil the seasoned liquor; and skim, -and stir it well. When it comes to a boil, put in the oysters. Give them -one good stir, and then immediately take them from the fire, transfer -them to a deep dish, and send them to table. They are not to boil. - -Many persons consider this the finest way of cooking oysters for -company. Try it. The oysters must be of the very best. - - -FRIED OYSTERS.--For frying, take only the largest and finest oysters. -They should be as fresh as you can get them. Salt oysters are not good -for frying. Take them out of their liquor, carefully, with a fork, -picking off whatever bits of shell may be about them. Dry them in a -clean napkin. Prepare some grated bread-crumbs, or pounded cracker, or -soda biscuit, seasoned with cayenne pepper. Have ready plenty of yolk of -egg beaten till very light; and to each egg allow a large tea-spoonful -of rich cream, or of the best fresh butter. Beat the egg and cream -together. Dip each oyster first into the egg, &c., and then into the -crumbs. Repeat this twice till the oysters are well-coated all over. -Have ready boiling, in a frying-pan, an equal mixture of fresh butter -and lard. It must come nearly to the edge or top of the frying-pan, and -be boiling fast when the oysters go in; otherwise they will be heavy and -greasy, and sink to the bottom. Fry them of a yellow brown on both -sides. Send them to table very hot. - -Oysters will be found much the best when fried in grated bread-crumbs. -Cracker-crumbs form a hard, tough coating that is very indigestible, and -also impairs the flavor. Use no salt in making the batter. Omit it -entirely. It overpowers the taste of the oysters. - - -OYSTER FRITTERS.--Allow to each egg a heaped table-spoonful of flour, -and a jill or small tea-cupful of milk. Beat the eggs till very light -and thick; then stir them, gradually, into the pan of milk, in turn with -the flour, a little at a time. Beat the whole very hard. Have ready the -oysters, that you may proceed immediately to baking the fritters. The -oysters should be fresh, and of the largest size. Having drained them -from their liquor, and dried them separately in a cloth, and dredged -them with flour, set over the fire a frying-pan nearly full of lard. -When it boils fast, put in a large spoonful of the batter. Then lay an -oyster upon it, and cover the oyster with another spoonful of batter. -Fry the fritters of a nice yellow. As they are done, take them up, drain -off the lard from the oysters, and keep them hot till they go to table. -This will be found a very fine receipt if _exactly_ followed. - - -CLAM FRITTERS.--Put a sufficient quantity of clams into a pot of boiling -water. The small sand-clam will be best. When the shells open wide, take -them out, extract the clams from the shells, and put them into a -stew-pan. Strain their liquor, and pour about half of it over the clams; -adding a little black pepper. They will require no salt. Let them stew, -slowly, for half an hour; then take them out; drain off all the liquor; -and mince the clams as fine as possible, omitting the hardest parts. You -should have as many clams as will make a large pint when minced. Make a -batter of seven eggs, beaten till very thick and light, and then mixed -gradually with a quart of milk, and a pint of sifted flour, stirred in -by degrees, and made perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Then, -gradually, mix the minced clams with the batter, and stir the whole very -hard. Have ready in a frying-pan over the fire, a sufficiency of boiling -lard. Put in, with a spoon, the batter so as to form fritters, and fry -them light brown. Drain them well when done and serve them up hot. - -Oyster fritters may be made as above: except that the oysters must be -minced raw, and mixed into the batter without having been stewed. - -_Soft-crab Fritters._--Use only the bodies of the crabs, and proceed as -above. - - -SCOLLOPED CLAMS.--Having boiled a quantity of small sand-clams till they -open of themselves, remove them from the shells. Drain away the liquor, -and chop them small, omitting the hardest parts. Season them with black -pepper and powdered mace, and mix them with grated bread-crumbs and -fresh butter. Get some large clean clam-shells, and fill them to the -edge with the above mixture, moistened with _a very little_ of the -liquor. Cover the surface with grated crumbs, and add to each one a -small bit of butter. Set them in an oven, and bake them light brown. -Send them to table in the shells they were baked in, arranged on large -dishes. They are eaten at breakfast and supper. Clams must always have -the shells washed before they are boiled. - -Oysters are frequently scolloped in this manner, minced, and served up -in large _clam_ shells. - -Boiled crabs, also, are cooked, minced, and prepared in this way, and -sent to table in the back-shell of the crab. - -All these scollops are improved by mixing among them some hard-boiled -eggs, minced or chopped; or some raw egg beaten. - - -ROASTED OYSTERS.--The old-fashioned way of roasting oysters is to lay -them on a hot hearth, and cover them in hot cinders or ashes, (taking -them out with tongs when done,) or to put them into a moderate fire. -When done, their shells will begin to open. The usual way now is to -broil them on large gridirons of strong wire. Serve them up in their -shells on large dishes, or on trays, at oyster suppers. At every plate -lay an oyster knife and a clean coarse towel, and between every two -chairs set a bucket to receive the empty shells. The gentlemen generally -save the ladies the trouble of opening the oysters, by performing that -office for them. - -Have on the table, to eat with the oysters, bread-rolls, biscuits, -butter, and glasses with sticks of celery scraped, and divested of the -green leaves at the top. Have also ale or porter. - -Or, you may take large oysters out of their shells, dredge them lightly -with flour, lay them separately on a wire gridiron, and broil them. -Serve them up on large dishes, with a morsel of fresh butter laid on -each oyster. - - -SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.--Drain the liquor from a sufficient quantity of fine -fresh oysters; and season them with blades of mace, grated nutmeg, and a -little cayenne. Lay about a dozen of them in the bottom of a deep dish. -Cut some slices of wheat bread, and put them to soak in a pan of the -oyster liquor (previously strained.) - -Soak the bread till it is soft throughout, but not dissolved. Cover the -oysters in the bottom of the dish, with some slices of the soaked bread, -(drained from the liquor,) and lay upon the bread a few small bits of -nice fresh butter. Then put in another layer of seasoned oysters; then -another layer of soaked bread with bits of butter dispersed upon it. -Repeat this with more layers of oysters, soaked bread, and bits of -butter, till the dish is full, finishing with a close layer of bread on -the top. Set this into a hot oven, and bake it, a short time only, or -till it is well browned on the surface. Oysters require but little -cooking, and this bread has had one baking already. The liquid that is -about the bread is sufficient. It requires no more. - -Scolloped oysters may be cooked in large, clean, clam-shells and served -up on great dishes. - - -PICKLED OYSTERS.--Take a hundred fine large oysters--set them over the -fire in their own liquor--add two ounces of nice fresh butter, and -simmer them slowly for ten minutes; skimming them well. If they boil -fast and long, they will become hard and shrivelled. Take them off the -fire and strain from them their liquor; spread the oysters out on large -dishes, and place them in the air to cool fast, or lay them in a broad -pan of cold water. This renders them firm. Strain the liquor, and then -mix with it an equal quantity of the best and purest clear -cider-vinegar. Season (if the oysters are fresh,) with a small -tea-spoonful of salt, two dozen whole pepper-corns, and a -table-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg, mixed. Let the liquor boil -till it is reduced to little more than enough to cover the oysters well. -Put the oysters into a tureen, or a broad stone jar. Pour the hot liquor -over them, and let them grow quite cold before they are eaten. You may -give them a fine tinge of pale pink color by adding to the liquor (while -boiling,) a little prepared cochineal. - - -PICKLED OYSTERS.--_For keeping._--Have five or six hundred oysters of -the finest sort and largest size. Proceed as in the foregoing receipt, -but increase, proportionately, the quantity of spice and vinegar. Put -them in stone-ware jars, securing the covers by pasting all round, bands -or strips of thick white paper; and place on each jar, on the top of the -liquor, a table-spoonful of salad oil. - -Use no other than _genuine cider-vinegar_. Much that is sold for the -best white-wine vinegar is in reality a deleterious compound of -pernicious drugs, that will eat up or dissolve the oysters entirely, -leaving nothing but a sickening whitish fluid. This vinegar is at first -so overpoweringly sharp and pungent, as to destroy, entirely, the taste -of the spices; and, while cooking, emits a disagreeable smell. The -oysters immediately become ragged, and in less than an hour are entirely -destroyed. This vinegar acts in the same manner on all other pickles, -and the use of it should always be shunned. - -_Drugs_ should not be employed in any sort of cookery, though their -introduction is now most lamentably frequent. They ruin the flavor and -are injurious to health. - - -OYSTER PATTIES.--Make sufficient puff-paste for at least a dozen small -patties. Roll it out thick, and line with it twelve small tin -patty-pans. Bake them brown in a brisk oven; and when done set them to -cool. Have ready two or three dozen large, fine, fresh oysters. Wash and -drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with no other liquid than just -enough of their own liquor to keep them from burning. Season them with -cayenne, nutmeg, and mace, and a few of the green tops or leaves of -celery sprigs minced small. Add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -divided into bits, and laid among the oysters. To enrich the gravy, stir -in, at the last, the beaten yolks of three or four eggs, or some thick -cream or butter. Let the oysters stew in this gravy about five minutes. -When the patties are beginning to cool, fill each with one or two large -oysters. If you choose, you can bake for every patty a small round lid -of pastry, to be laid lightly on the top, so as to cover the oysters -when they go to table. For company, make a large quantity of oyster -patties, as they are much liked. - - -OYSTER LOAVES.--Take some tall fresh rolls, or small loaves. Cut nicely -a round or oval hole in the top of each, saving the pieces that come -off. Then carefully scoop out most of the crumb from the inside, leaving -the crust standing. Have ready a sufficient quantity of large fresh -oysters. Put the oysters with one-fourth of their liquor into a -stew-pan; adding the bread-crumbs, a large piece of fresh butter, some -powdered nutmeg, and mace. Stew them about ten minutes. Then stir in two -or three large table-spoonfuls of cream; take them off just as they are -coming to a boil. If cooked too long the oysters will become tough and -shriveled, and the cream will curdle. Fill the inside of your scooped -loaves with the oysters, reserving as many large oysters as you have -loaves. Place the bit of upper-crust carefully on the top of each, so as -to cover the whole. Arrange them on a dish, and lay on each lid one of -the large oysters kept out for the purpose. These ornamental oysters -must be well drained from any liquid that is about them. - - -OYSTER OMELET.--Having strained the liquor from twenty-five oysters of -the largest size, mince them small; omitting the hard part or gristle. -If you cannot get large oysters, you should have forty or fifty small -ones. Break into a shallow pan six, seven, or eight eggs, according to -the quantity of minced oysters. Omit half the whites, and, (having -beaten the eggs till very light, thick, and smooth,) mix the oysters -gradually into them, adding a little cayenne pepper, and some powdered -nutmeg. Put three ounces or more of the best fresh butter into a small -frying-pan, if you have no pan especially for omelets. Place it over a -clear fire, and when the butter, (which should be previously cut up,) -has come to a boil, put in the omelet-mixture; stir it till it begins to -set; and fry it light brown, lifting the edge several times by slipping -a knife under it, and taking care not to cook it too much or it will -shrivel and become tough. When done, clap a large hot plate or dish on -the top of the omelet, and turn it quickly and carefully out of the pan. -Serve it up immediately. It is a fine breakfast dish. This quantity will -make one large or two small omelets. - -Clam omelets may be made as above. - -An omelet pan should be smaller than a common frying-pan, and lined with -tin. In a large pan the omelet will spread too much, and become thin -like a pancake. - -Never turn an omelet while frying, as that will make it heavy and tough. -When done, brown it by holding a red-hot shovel or salamander close -above the top. - -Excellent omelets may be made of cold boiled ham, or smoked tongue; -grated or minced small, mixed with a sufficiency of beaten eggs, and -fried in butter. - - -BROILED OYSTERS.--Take the largest and finest oysters. See that your -gridiron is very clean. Rub the bars with fresh butter, and set it over -a clear steady fire, entirely free from smoke; or on a bed of bright hot -wood coals. Place the oysters on the gridiron, and when done on one -side, take a fork and turn them on the other; being careful not to let -them burn. Put some fresh butter in the bottom of a dish. Lay the -oysters on it, and season them with pepper and grated nutmeg. Send them -to table hot. - - -OYSTER PIE.--Having buttered the inside of a deep dish, line it with -puff-paste rolled out rather thick; and prepare another sheet of paste -for the lid. Pat a clean towel into the dish (folded so as to support -the lid) and then put on the lid; set it into the oven, and bake the -paste well. When done, remove the lid, and take out the folded towel. -While the paste is baking, prepare the oysters. Having picked off -carefully any bits of shell that may be found about them, lay them in a -sieve and drain off the liquor into a pan. Put the oysters into a -skillet or stew-pan, with barely enough of the liquor to keep them from -burning. Season them with whole pepper, blades of mace, some grated -nutmeg, and some grated lemon-peel, (the yellow rind only,) and a little -finely minced celery. Then add a large portion of fresh butter, divided -into bits, and very slightly dredged with flour. Let the oysters simmer -over the fire, but do not allow them to come to a boil, as that will -shrivel them. Next beat the yolks only, of three, four, or five eggs, -(in proportion to the size of the pie,) and stir the beaten egg into -the stew a few minutes before you take it from the fire. Keep it warm -till the paste is baked. Then carefully remove the lid of the pie; and -replace it, after you have filled the dish with the oysters and gravy. - -The lid of the pie may be ornamented with a wreath of leaves cut out of -paste, and put on before baking. In the centre, place a paste-knot or -flower. - -Oyster pies are generally eaten warm; but they are very good cold. - - -CLAM PIE.--Take a sufficient number of clams to fill a large pie-dish -when opened. Make a nice paste in the proportion of a pound of fresh -butter to two quarts of flour. Paste for shell fish, or meat, or chicken -pies, should be rolled out double the thickness of that intended for -fruit pies. Line the sides and bottom of your pie-dish with paste. Then -cover the bottom with a thin beef steak, divested of bone and fat. Put -in the clams, and season them with mace, nutmeg, and a few whole -pepper-corns. No salt. Add a spoonful of butter rolled in flour, and -some hard-boiled yolks of eggs crumbled fine. Then put in enough of the -clam liquor to make sufficient gravy. Put on the lid of the pie, (which, -like the bottom crust, should be rolled out thick,) notch it handsomely, -and bake it well. It should be eaten warm. - - -SOFT CRABS.--These are crabs that, having cast their old shells, have -not yet assumed the new ones. In this, the transition state, they are -considered delicacies. Put them into fast-boiling water, and boil them -for ten minutes. Then take them out, drain them, wipe them very clean, -and prepare them for frying by removing the spongy part inside and the -sand-bag. Put plenty of fresh lard into a pan; and when it boils fast, -lay in the crabs, and fry them well, seasoning them with cayenne. As -soon as they are done of a nice golden color, take them out, drain off -the lard back into the pan, and lay them on a large _hot_ dish. Cover -them to keep warm while you fry, in the same lard, all the best part of -a fresh lettuce, chopped small. Let it fry only long enough to become -hot throughout. When you serve up the crabs cover them with the fried -lettuce. Stir into the gravy some cream, or a piece of nice fresh butter -rolled in flour; and send it to table in a sauce-boat, seasoned with a -little cayenne. - -Soft crabs require no other flavoring. They make a nice breakfast-dish -for company. Only the large claws are eaten, therefore break off as -useless the small ones. - -Instead of lettuce, you may fry the crabs with parsley--removed from the -pan before it becomes brown. Pepper-grass is still better. - - -TERRAPINS.--In buying terrapins select the largest and thickest. Like -all other delicacies, the best are the cheapest in the end. Small poor -terrapins are not worth the cost of the seasoning. A poor terrapin, -poorly dressed, is indeed a poor thing, and is always recognized as -such, by those who are expected to eat it. _Get fine terrapins only._ -Put them into a pot of water that is boiling very hard at the time, and -let them boil for about ten minutes. Immediately on taking them out, -proceed to rub, with a coarse clean cloth, all the skin from the head, -neck, and claws--also, the thin shell, as it comes loose. Having washed -them in warm water, put the terrapins into a clean pot with fresh water, -and a table-spoonful of salt, and boil them again till they are -thoroughly done, and the paws are perfectly soft. Remove the toe-nails. -Some terrapins require three hours. When they are quite soft, open them -carefully, remove the spongy part, the sand-bag, the gall, and the -entrails--it being now the custom to throw away the whole of the -disgusting garbage, always tasteless, tough, and disagreeable to look -at. Be careful not to break the gall, as it will give an unpleasant -bitter taste to the whole. Cut into small pieces all the meat of the -terrapins, put them into a stew-pan, (adding the juice they have yielded -in cutting up, _but no water_,) and proceed to season them, beginning -with cayenne and black pepper, to your taste; also, a handful of flour -for the thickening. Stir all well together, and in a short time add four -table-spoonfuls of cream, or fresh butter, and a half pint of Madeira or -sherry to every four terrapins. If they have no eggs, make up some -artificially; crumbling the yolks of hard-boiled common eggs, mashed to -a paste with a little nice butter, and then made into balls with beaten -raw egg. Add plenty of these to the stew, and let the whole cook -together for a quarter of an hour longer. Serve it up hot, in a well -heated covered dish. - -Four fine large terrapins generally make one dish; and the above is the -usual quantity of seasoning for them. - - -NEW WAY OF DRESSING TERRAPINS.--In buying terrapins, select those only -that are large, fat, and thick-bodied. Put them whole into water that is -boiling hard at the time, and (adding a little salt) boil them till -thoroughly done throughout. Then, taking off the shell, extract the -meat, and remove carefully the sand-bag and gall; also, _all the -entrails_,--they are disgusting, unfit to eat, and are no longer served -up in cooking terrapin for the best tables. Cut the meat into pieces, -and put it into a stew-pan with its eggs, and sufficient fresh butter to -stew it well. Let it stew till quite hot throughout, keeping the pan -carefully covered that none of the flavor may escape; but shake it over -the fire while stewing. In another pan, make a sauce of beaten yolk of -egg, highly flavored with Madeira or sherry, and powdered nutmeg and -mace, and enriched with a large lump of fresh butter. Stir this sauce -well over the fire, and when it has _almost_ come to a boil, take it -off. Send the terrapin to table hot in a covered dish, and the sauce -_separately_ in a sauce-tureen, to be used by those who like it, and -omitted by those who prefer the genuine flavor of the terrapin when -simply stewed with butter. - -This is now the usual mode of dressing terrapins in Maryland and -Virginia, and will be found superior to any other. - -No dish of terrapins can be good unless the terrapins themselves are of -the best quality. It is mistaken economy to buy poor ones. Besides being -insipid and tasteless, it takes more in number to fill a dish. The -females are the best. - - -A TERRAPIN POT-PIE.--Take several fine large terrapins, the fattest and -thickest you can get. Put them into a large pot of water that is boiling -hard; and boil them half an hour or more. Then take them out of the -shell, pulling off the outer skin and the toe-nails. Remove the sand-bag -and the gall, taking care not to break it, or it will render the whole -too bitter to be eaten. Take out also the entrails, and throw them away; -as the custom of cooking them is now, very properly, exploded. Then cut -up all the meat of the terrapins, taking care to save all the liquid -that exudes in cutting up, and also the eggs. Season the whole with -pepper, mace, and nutmeg, adding a little salt; and lay among it pieces -of fresh butter slightly rolled in flour. - -Have ready an ample quantity of paste, made in the proportion of a pound -of butter to two large quarts (or pounds) of flour, or a pound and a -half of butter to three quarts of flour, and rolled out thick. Butter -the inside of an iron pot, and line the sides with paste, till it -reaches within one-third of the top. Then put in the pieces of terrapin, -with the eggs, butter, &c., and with all the liquid. Lay among the -terrapin, square pieces of paste. Then pour in sufficient water to stew -the whole properly. Next, cover all with a circular lid, or top-crust of -paste, but do not fit it so closely that the gravy cannot bubble up over -the edges while cooking. Cut a small cross slit in the top crust. Place -the pot, with the pie, over a good fire, and boil it till the whole is -thoroughly done, which will be in from three quarters to an hour after -it comes to a boil. Take care not to let it get too dry, but keep at -hand a kettle of boiling water to replenish the pot when necessary. To -ascertain if the pie is done, lift up with a fork a little of the paste, -at one side, and try it low down in the pot. - -It may be much improved, by mixing among the pieces of terrapins, -(before putting them into the pie,) some yolks of hard-boiled eggs, -grated or minced. They will enrich the gravy. - -A pot-pie may be made, (a very fine one too,) of some of the best pieces -of a green turtle. - - -A SEA-COAST PIE.--Having boiled a sufficient number of crabs and -lobsters, extract all the meat from the shells, and cut it into -mouthfuls. Have ready some fine large oysters drained from the liquor. -Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with puff-paste; and put in a -thick layer of crab or lobster, seasoned with a little cayenne pepper, -and a grated lemon-peel. Mix it with some hard-boiled yolk of egg, -crumbled fine, and moistened with fresh butter. Next, put a close layer -of oysters, seasoned with pounded mace and grated nutmeg. Put some bits -of butter rolled in flour on the top of the layer. Proceed in this -manner with alternate layers of crab or lobster, and of oysters, till -the dish is nearly full. Then pour in, at the last, a tea-cupful or more -of the oyster liquor, with an equal quantity of rich cream. Have ready a -thick lid of puff-paste. Put it on the pie, pressing the edges closely, -so as to unite them all round; and notch them handsomely. Make a wreath -of leaves cut out of paste, and a flower or knot for the centre; place -them on the top-crust; and bake the pie well. While it is baking, -prepare some balls made of chopped oysters; grated bread-crumbs; -powdered nutmeg, or mace; and grated lemon-peel; also, some hard-boiled -yolks of eggs, grated. Having fried these balls in butter, drain them, -and when the pie is baked, lay a circle of them round the top, between -the border of paste-leaves and the centre-knot. - -This pie will be found so fine that it ought to be baked in a dish -which will contain a large quantity. - - -TO DRESS A TURTLE.--The turtle should be taken out of water, and killed -over night in winter, and early in the morning in summer. Hang it up by -the hind fins, and before it has had time to draw in its neck, cut off -its head with a very sharp knife, and leave the turtle suspended. It -should bleed two or three hours or more, before you begin to cut it up. -Then lay it on its back upon a table: have at hand several vessels of -cold water, in which to throw the most important parts as you separate -them; also a large boiler of hot water. Take off the fins at the joint, -and lay them by themselves in cold water; next divide the back-shell -from the under-shell. The upper part of the turtle is called the -calipash--the under part the calipee. In cutting open the turtle, be -very careful not to break the gall, which should be taken out and thrown -away; if broken, its bitterness will spoil all around it. Take out the -entrails and throw them away. The practice of cooking them is now -obsolete. So it is with the entrails of terrapins. Using a sharp knife, -cut off the fins carefully, also the liver, lungs, heart, kidneys, &c. -Wash them well, and lay them in a pan of cold water, the liver in a pan -by itself. If there are eggs, put them also into cold water. Having -extracted the intestines, stand up the turtle on end, to let the blood -run out. Afterwards cut out all the flesh from the upper and under -shells, and remove the bones. Cut the calipee (or meat belonging to the -under-shell) into pieces about as large as the palm of your hand, and -break the shell. The calipash, or meat next the back-shell, may be cut -smaller--the green fat into pieces about two inches square. Put all the -meat into a large pan, sprinkle it slightly with salt, and cover it up. -Lay the shells and fins in a tub of boiling water, and scald them till -the scales can be scraped off with a knife, and all the meat that still -adheres to the shells easily removed, as it is worth saving. Clean the -fins nicely, (taking off the dark skin,) and lay them in cold water. -Wipe the back-shell dry, and set it aside. Then proceed to make the -soup. For this purpose, take the coarser pieces of flesh with the bone -likewise. Put them into a pot with a pound of cold ham cut into pieces, -and eight large calves'-feet (two sets) that have been singed and -scraped, but not skinned. If you cannot conveniently obtain -calves'-feet, substitute a large fore-leg or knuckle of veal. Add four -onions, sliced thin; two tablespoonfuls of sweet-marjoram leaves; a -large bunch of basil; a dozen blades of mace; and a salt-spoon of -cayenne. The ham will make any other salt unnecessary. Pour on as much -water as will completely cover the whole, and let it simmer slowly over -a steady fire during five hours, skimming it well. If after a while the -soup seems to be boiling away too much, replenish it with a little hot -water from a kettle, kept boiling hard for the purpose. When it has -simmered five hours, take up the whole, and strain the soup through a -sieve into a deep pan. Wash out the soup-pot with hot water, and return -the strained soup to it, with the liver, &c., cut in small pieces, and -some of the best of the meat, and a portion of the green fat. Have ready -two or three dozen force-meat balls, the size of a hickory nut, and made -of the usual proportions of minced veal, bread-crumbs, butter, grated -lemon-peel, mace, nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Put them into the -soup, and let it boil an hour longer; also the eggs of the turtle, or -some hard-boiled yolks of eggs. After it has thus boiled another hour, -add the juice and grated yellow rinds of two lemons, and a pint of -Madeira. Boil the soup a quarter of an hour longer, and it will then be -ready for the tureen. It must never boil hard. - -In the mean time, stew in another pot the finest of the turtle-meat, -seasoned with a little salt and cayenne, and a liberal allowance of -sweet-marjoram leaves rubbed fine, and mixed with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Add a pound of fresh butter, cut into pieces and rolled in -flour. When the turtle-meat has stewed an hour, put in the green fat, -and add the juice and grated yellow rinds of two lemons, and a pint or -more of Madeira, and let the whole stew slowly an hour longer. While the -meat is stewing, take the shell of the back; wash it clean, and wipe it -dry; lay a band of puff-paste all round the inside of the shell, two -inches below the edge, and two inches above it. Notch the paste -handsomely, and fill the shell with the stewed turtle. Have ready the -oven, heated as if for bread. Lay a large iron baking-sheet or a square -pan upon four bricks (one at each corner) to elevate the turtle-shell -from the floor of the oven. Place on it the shell with its contents, and -let it bake till well browned on the surface. Send it to table with the -shell placed on a large dish. At the other end set the tureen of soup. -Have ready (on two side dishes) the fins stewed tender in a little of -the soup, and the liver fried in butter. - -This receipt is for a turtle of moderate size. A large one will, of -course, require an increased proportion of all the articles used in -seasoning it--more wine, &c. In serving up turtle at a dinner-party, let -it constitute the first course, and have nothing else on the table while -the turtle is there. - -We have seen elegant silver turtle-dishes, representing the back-shell -of the animal, superbly chased and engraved, the feet for it to stand on -being paws of silver; and the fins having hollow places to hold the -sauce. This was for the stew; making a dish separate from the soup, -which is always sent to table in a tureen. - - -TURTLE PASTY.--When the meat has been all extracted, scrape and wash the -large back shell of the turtle till it is perfectly clean. Make a rich -puff-paste. Roll it out thin, and line with it the bottom and sides, in -fact the whole of the back-shell. Having prepared and seasoned the best -pieces of the turtle-meat, as in the preceding receipt, stew them till -thoroughly done, and very tender, and when cool, fill the shell with -them. Have ready an upper lid of the same puff-paste, rolled out rather -_thick_. Cover the pie with it. Unite the edges of the upper and under -crusts, very neatly, wetting your fingers with water. Then notch them -handsomely all round, and cut a cross slit in the centre of the top or -cover. Set it directly into a rather quick oven. Bake the crust of a -light brown, and send it to table hot. - - -LOBSTERS.--If you buy a lobster ready boiled, see that his tail is stiff -and elastic, so that when you bend it under, it springs back -immediately; otherwise he is not fresh. If alive or unboiled, he will be -lively and brisk in his motion when newly caught. The same with prawns, -and crabs. - -The heaviest lobsters are the best. - -To boil a lobster, have ready a pot of fast-boiling water, very strongly -salted. Put in the lobster head downward; and if the water is really hot -(it is cruel to have it otherwise,) he will be dead in a moment. Crabs, -of course, the same. A moderate sized lobster (and they are the best,) -will be done in half an hour. A large one requires from three-quarters -to an hour. Before it is sent to table, the large claws should be taken -off, and laid beside it. The head also should be separated from the -body, but laid so near it that the division is nearly imperceptible. The -head is never eaten. Split the body, and lay it open all the way down, -including the tail. If there is a good dresser of salads in the house, -the lobster may be served up ready dressed, in a deep dish, seasoned -with the proper condiments, after being cut small or minced, heaped up -towards the centre of the dish, and decorated with the small claws laid -across on the top, with the addition of green celery leaves, or parsley -sprigs. - - -LOBSTER SALAD--(_plain_.)--Take a well boiled lobster. Extract all the -meat from the body and claws, cut it up small, and mash the coral with -the back of a spoon or a broad knife. Wash the best part of a fresh -lettuce, and cut that up also, omitting all the stalk. Mix together the -chopped lobster and the lettuce, and put them into a salad bowl. Make -the dressing in a deep plate, allowing for one lobster a salt-spoon of -salt, half as much of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, (tarragon -mustard is best,) four table-spoonfuls (or more) of sweet oil, and three -table-spoonfuls of the best cider vinegar. Mix all these together, with -the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, mashed to a soft moist paste with -the other ingredients, adding the coral of the lobster. When they are -all mixed smoothly, add them to the lobster and lettuce. If the mixture -seems too dry, add more sweet oil. Toss and stir the salad with a -box-wood fork. Also, the things should be mashed with a box-wood spoon. -Cover, and set it in a cool place till wanted. It should be eaten as -soon as possible after mixing, as it becomes flat by standing. - -Plenty of sweet oil renders a lobster wholesome. Still, persons who are -not in good health, had best abstain from lobster. - -You may add to the dressing, one or two raw yolks of eggs, beaten well. - - -FINE LOBSTER SALAD--(_This is for company._)--Boil eight eggs for ten -minutes, or till quite hard. Lay them in cold water, or cool them by -laying bits of ice among them. When quite cold, cut each egg lengthways -into four or six pieces, taking a bit off one end of each piece or -slice. Cut up into long pieces the best part of a fresh lettuce, that -has just been washed in a pan of cold water. Lay the lettuce in a dish, -and surround it closely with the pieces of egg standing up on their -blunted ends, with the yolk side outward, and forming a handsome wall -all round the bed of lettuce. Upon this, pile neatly the bits of chopped -lobster, finishing with the small claws stuck into the top. Have ready -the dressing in a sauce-tureen. Make it of the beaten yolks of two raw -eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, thickened with the mashed -coral of the lobster, and the crumbled yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, -and season slightly with a little salt, cayenne, and a spoonful of -tarragon mustard. Finish with two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and stir -the whole hard with a box-wood spoon or fork. Send it to table with the -sauce-tureen, along with the dish of lobster, &c. Pour on each plate of -lobster a portion of this dressing. Or, if you can obtain no lettuce, -mix this dressing at once with the chopped meat of the lobster. Smooth -it in a pile on the dish, (keeping it towards the centre) and stand up -the slips of hard egg handsomely surrounding it--the small claws -decorating the top. - - -LOBSTER RISSOLES.--Extract all the meat from the shells of one or two -boiled lobsters. Mince it very fine; the coral also. Season it with a -little salt and cayenne, and some powdered mace and nutmeg. Add about a -fourth part of finely grated bread-crumbs; and with a sufficiency of -fresh butter or a little finely-minced veal suet, or some sweet oil, -make it up into balls or cones. Brush them over with yolk of egg, dredge -them lightly with flour, and fry them in lard. Introduce them as a side -dish at a dinner party, or as an accompaniment to salmon. - -This mixture may be baked in puff-paste as little patties, or you may -bake in a soup-plate an empty shell of paste, and when done, (having -stewed the rissole mixture made moist) fill the cold paste with it, and -serve it up as a lobster pie. - -In buying lobsters, choose those that are the heaviest and liveliest, or -quickest in their motions when touched. They are then fresh. The hen has -the broadest tail and the softest fins. - - -LOBSTER PUDDING.--Take the empty back shell of one large boiled lobster, -and all the best meat of two. Clean out the shell very nicely; washing -it, and wiping it dry. Mince the meat, and mash the coral with it; -adding half a dozen yolks of hard-boiled eggs crumbled among it, and -season it well with powdered mace and nutmeg, and a little cayenne. -Moisten it all through with plenty of sweet oil, and the raw yolks of -one or two eggs, well beaten. Fill the shell with this pudding, and -cover the surface of the mixture with a coating of finely-grated -bread-crumbs. Brown it by holding over it a salamander, or a red hot -fire-shovel. Send it to table in the shell, laid on a china dish. - -Small puddings may be made as above, of crab-meat put into several large -crab-shells, and placed side by side on a dish. - -They may be eaten either warm or cold; and they look well with green -lettuce or pepper-grass, disposed fancifully among them. - - -CRABS.--Crabs are seldom eaten except at the sea-shore, where there is a -certainty of their being fresh from the water. They are very abundant, -but so little is in them, that when better things are to be had, they -are scarcely worth the trouble of boiling and picking out the shell. -They are cooked like lobsters, in boiling salt and water, and brought to -table piled on large dishes, and are eaten with salt, pepper, sweet oil, -and vinegar. The meat of two dozen crabs, when all is extracted, will -make but a small dish. Season it with cayenne, mustard, oil, vinegar, -and eat it cold; or stew it with fresh butter, powdered mace, and -nutmeg, and serve it up hot. - -_Prawns._--The same. - - -SHRIMPS.--Of all fish belonging to the lobster species, shrimps are the -smallest. In England, where they abound, they are sold by the quart, -ready boiled. The way to eat them is to pull off the head, and squeeze -the body out of the shell by pressing it between your fore-finger and -thumb. At good tables they are only used as sauce for large fish, -squeezed out of the shell, and stirred into melted butter. - - -LOBSTER SAUCE.--Take a small hen lobster that has been well boiled. -Extract all the meat, and chop it large. Take out the coral, and pound -it smooth in a marble mortar, adding, as you proceed, sufficient sweet -oil. Make some nice drawn butter, allowing half a pound of nice fresh -butter to two heaped table-spoonfuls of flour, and a pint of hot water. -Mix the butter and flour thoroughly, and then gradually add to them the -coral, so as to give a fine color. Then mix this with a small pint of -boiling water. Hold the saucepan over the fire, (shaking it about till -it simmers) but do not let it quite boil. Put in the chopped lobster, -and let that simmer in the sauce, till well heated. To allow it to boil -will spoil the color, (which should be pale pink,) and may be improved -by a little prepared cochineal. Or, you may tie, in a small bit of thin -muslin, a few chips of alkanet, and put it into the sauce, (taking it -out, of course, before it goes to table.) Alkanet communicates a -beautiful pink color, and has no taste in itself. - -This quantity of sauce is for a large fish--salmon, cod, turbot, or -sheep's head. There should always be an ample supply of sauce. It is -very awkward for the sauce to give out, before it has gone round the -company. - - - - -BEEF. - - -ROASTING BEEF.--The prime piece of beef for roasting is the sirloin; but -being too large for a small family, the ribs are generally preferred, -when there are but few persons to eat of it. So also is the baron, or -double sirloin, undivided along the back. It is chiefly seen at great -dinners. Except the sirloin and ribs, there are no very good roasting -pieces, all the rest being generally used for stews, soups, &c., and for -corning or salting. Unless the animal is a very fine one, the inferior -pieces are apt to be tough, hard, and coarse. The round is the best -piece for corning or salting, and for cooking, as beef _a-la-mode_, or -converting into what, in England, is called rump-steaks. These steaks -require a rolling-pin, before they can be made tender enough for good -eating, or good digestion. The finest and tenderest steaks are those cut -from the sirloin. The meat of a young well-fed heifer is very good; and -that of an old ox, (that has done working, and afterwards been fattened -well on plenty of wholesome food,) may be made of superior excellence. -The lean of good fresh beef is of a bright red color, a fine close -grain, and feels tender to the touch on pinching it between your thumb -and finger. The fat is firm and very nearly white. The suet about the -kidney, firm and quite white. If, on the contrary, the lean is coarse, -tough, and of a dull color, and the fat scanty, yellow, and moist, do -not buy that meat for any purpose. The same rules will apply to mutton. -If the weather is so cold that the meat is frozen, thaw it by lying it -all night or early in the morning in a tub of _cold_ water. If thawed in -water the least warm, the meat will spoil, and be rendered unfit to eat. -Meat that has been frozen, requires a much longer time to cook, than if -that accident had not happened. _All_ frozen animals must be thawed in -cold water previous to cooking. Cold roast-beef is much liked in -England. In America, where meat is more abundant, and therefore less -costly, it is not considered a proper dish to place before a visitor; -therefore, in our country, a large piece is seldom cooked with a view to -next day's dinner. We prefer smaller pieces, always served up fresh and -hot. Beef for roasting, should be well washed in plenty of cold water; -then dried with a clean cloth. Prepare the fire, in time to be burning -well, when the meat is put down. It should have plenty of hot coals, and -no part of the fire black, ashy, or smoky, and the hearth swept very -clean: _for no sweeping must go on while the meat (or any thing else) is -cooking_. The spit should always be kept perfectly clean, when not in -use; and well washed, wiped, and rubbed immediately after using. Run it -evenly into the meat, which will hang crooked if not well balanced. When -first put down, take care not to set it at once too close to the fire, -but place it rather more than two feet distant, that the meat may heat -gradually. If too near the fire at first, the outside will scorch, and -leave the inside red and bloody. Underdone meat (foolishly called -_rare_) is getting quite out of fashion, being unwholesome and -indigestible, and to most Americans its savour is disgusting. To ladies -and children it is always so, and even the English have ceased to like -it. It is now seldom seen but at those public tables, where they -consider it an object to have as little meat as possible eaten on the -first day, that more may be left for the second day, to be made into -indescribable messes, with ridiculous French names, and passed off as -French dishes, by the so-called French cook, who is frequently an -Irishman. - -At first, baste the meat as soon as it begins to roast, with a little -fresh butter, or fresh dripping saved from yesterday's beef. Then, when -its own fat begins to drip, baste it with that, all the while it is -cooking. Gradually move it nearer to the fire, turning the spit round -frequently, so that the meat may be cooked equally on all sides. When it -is nearly done, sprinkle it slightly, with a little salt. When it is -quite done, and you take it from the spit, put it on a large hot dish, -and keep it warm while you skim the gravy, thoroughly, so as to remove -_all_ the fat. Then mix in the gravy a small tea-cup full of hot water, -and thicken it with a very little browned flour. Send it to table very -hot. - -As a general rule, a sirloin, weighing fifteen pounds, will require -about four hours (or more) before a good steady fire. If it has been -frozen, it will take much longer. The fatter it is the more cooking it -will require. When sent to table, place near it, a small sauce-shell of -horse-radish, washed, scraped fine, and moistened with the best vinegar. -Put a tea-spoon on the top to take it with. Pickles, and a bottle of -French mustard, at good tables, are generally accompaniments to beef or -mutton, whether roasted or boiled. - -The dripping of roast beef, after all the fat has been removed, and the -basting of the meat is over, should be strained into a pan, and kept in -a cold place, with a cover; and next day, when it is congealed into a -cake, scrape off whatever impurities may still adhere to the bottom, -transfer it to a covered jar, and set it in the refrigerator, or where -it will be cold. The dripping of roast beef is excellent for frying, for -plain pie-crust, or for many other purposes. The dripping of mutton -(being tallow) is only fit for soap-fat, and will spoil any dish -whatever. - - -BROILED BEEF STEAKS.--The best steaks are those from the tender-loin. -Those from the round or rump require beating with a rolling-pin. A -steak-mallet tears them and destroys the juices of the meat. Without -beating they will generally be found too tough or hard for an American -taste, though much liked in Europe, where tender-loin steaks are -considered too expensive. But they are here so much preferred, that, on -good tables, any others are seldom seen. Have all the steaks nearly of a -size and shape, and about half an inch thick. Trim off the fat, and cut -short the bone, or remove it altogether. Season them with black pepper, -but sprinkle on no salt till they have done cooking; as salt, if put on -at first, hardens them. Set your gridiron over a bed of bright clear -coals, having first rubbed the bars with a very little beef suet, or -dripping. Not mutton fat, as it will give the taste of tallow. - -A beef steak cannot be cooked in perfection unless over wood coals. To -cook them before an anthracite fire, on an upright gridiron, is more -like toasting than broiling, and much impairs the true flavor. A -gridiron of the usual shape, with grooved or hollow bars to catch the -gravy, is best of all. Broil the steaks well; and when done on one side, -turn each steak with steak tongs; or a knife and fork, and an inverted -plate. - -If onions are liked, peel and boil a few; drain and mince them, and -sprinkle them thickly over the surface of each steak. When they are -well done, take them off the gridiron, and transfer them to a heated -dish, laying a small bit of butter upon it; and put another bit of -butter on the surface of each steak, having first sprinkled them with a -very little fine salt. What there is of their own gravy, pour round them -on the dish. Send it to table as hot as possible. - -The English custom of eating what is called _rare_ or underdone beef or -mutton, is now becoming obsolete. To ladies, especially, all food is -disgusting that is red and bloody-looking--and physicians have -discovered, that nothing is wholesome unless well cooked. The -introduction of French cookery has done that much good. - -The onions may be stewed in butter or gravy, and served up in a -sauce-boat, seasoned with nutmeg. At the famous beef-steak club of -London, each guest is furnished with a small raw onion, to take on his -fork, and rub over his empty plate, just before the steaks are served -up, which is done one at a time, and as hot as possible, being cooked in -the room. - - -FRIED BEEF STEAKS.--Sirloin steaks should be tender enough without -beating. Rump steaks will require some; but do not beat them so much as -to tear the meat and exhaust all its juices. We have seen them pounded -almost into a mass of dry shreds, scarcely adhering together. Remove the -fat and bone. Lay them in a frying-pan, with a little fresh butter -dredged with flour, and season them with pepper. Fry them brown, -turning them on both sides. Have ready some onions, peeled, washed, and -sliced. After you have turned the steaks, cover them with the sliced -onions, and then finish the frying, till all is thoroughly done, meat -and onions, slightly sprinkling them with salt. The onions had best be -boiled in a small sauce-pan by themselves, before they are sliced and -fried. - -Put the whole on one dish, the onions covering the meat. - -Mutton chops, or veal cutlets, or pork steaks, may be fried in this -manner with onions, adding to them some minced sweet marjoram, or if -pork, some sage. - - -BEEF STEAK WITH OYSTERS.--Take very fine tender sirloin steak, divested -of fat and bone; cut them not larger than the palm of your hand; lay -them in a stew-pan with some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. -Strain over them sufficient oyster-liquor to cook them well, and to keep -them from burning, and to make a gravy so as to stew, but not to boil -them. Season them with some blades of mace, some grated nutmeg, and a -few whole pepper-corns. Let them cook till they are thoroughly done, and -not the least red. Then put in some fine large oysters. Set the stew-pan -again over the fire till the oysters are plump, which should be in about -five or six minutes. If cooked too much, the oysters will toughen and -shrink. When done, transfer the whole to a deep dish, mixing the oysters -evenly among the meat. Before you take them up, make some sippet or -thin toast, in triangular or pointed slices, with the crust cut off. Dip -the slices (for a minute) in boiling water; then take them out, and -stand them in a circle all round the inside of the dish, the points of -the sippets upwards. - - -CORNED OR SALTED BEEF.--For boiling, there is no piece of corned beef so -good, and so profitable, as the round. A large round is always better -and more tender than a small one, if the ox has been well fed. A small -round of beef is generally tough. In buying it, see that it looks and -smells well, as sometimes beef is not salted till it begins to taint; -and then it is done, with a view of disguising its unwholesome and -disgusting condition, which, however, will immediately be manifest as -soon as it is put on to boil, if not before. Every sort of food, the -least verging on decomposition, is unfit for any thing but to throw away -or bury. It is not necessary to buy always a whole round of beef. You -can have it cut into a half, third part, quarter, or into as many pounds -as you want. If very salt, lay it to soak in cold water the night -before, or early in the morning. Half a round (weighing about fifteen -pounds) will require about four hours to boil sufficiently. A whole -round, double that time. It must boil very slowly. If it boils too fast -at first, nothing will afterwards make it tender. The fire must be -steady, and moderate, that the heat may penetrate all through, slowly -and equally. The pot must be kept closely covered, unless for a minute -when the scum is taken off, and that must be done frequently. The beef -should, while boiling, be turned several times in the pot. It is much -the best way to boil it without any vegetables in the same pot; they -imbibe too much of the fat, particularly cabbage. Boil the cabbage by -itself in plenty of water, having first washed it well, laid it a while -in cold water, with the head downwards, and examined it well to see if -there are no insects between the leaves. The leaves on the very outside, -should be removed, and the stalk cut short. Tie a string round the -cabbage to keep it from falling apart. Put it into a pot with plenty of -cold water, and boil it an hour. Then take it out, drain it, and lay it -in a pan of cold water, or place it under the hydrant, for the hydrant -water to run copiously upon it. - -When the cabbage is perfectly cold, wash out the pot in which it was -parboiled, or put it into another quite clean one, and boil it another -hour. Then take it up, and keep it warm till wanted. Before you send it -to table, lay some bits of nice fresh butter between the inside leaves, -and sprinkle on a little pepper. This is much nicer than preparing what -is called drawn or melted butter to pour over the cabbage, and far more -wholesome. Drawn butter is seldom well made, being frequently little -more than a small morsel of butter, deluged with greasy water; and -sometimes it is nearly all flour and water. Cabbage cooked as above will -be found excellent, and be divested of the cabbage smell which is to -many persons disagreeable. - -Carrots are also an usual accompaniment to corned beef. They should be -washed, scraped, cut into pieces, and split, if very large; put into -boiling water, and cooked, according to their size, from one hour to two -hours. Before taking them up, try with a fork if they are tender -throughout. When done, they are best cut into slices, a little cold -butter mixed with them, and put into a deep dish, to be helped with a -spoon. - -Parsnips may be dressed in the same manner. - -For a plain family dinner, corned beef, cabbage, and carrots, cooked -_exactly_ as above, with, of course, the addition of potatos, will, on -trial, be found excellent. - -Corned beef _stewed_ very slowly, in a small quantity of water, (barely -sufficient to cover the meat,) well skimmed, and with the vegetables -done separately, is still better than when _boiled_. Mustard is a good -condiment for corned beef--so is vinegar to the cabbage. Pickles, also; -French mustard is very fine with it. - -Next to the round, the edgebone is the best piece for boiling. The -brisket or plate is too fat, and should only be eaten by persons in -strong health, and who take a great deal of exercise. No fat meat should -be given to children. Indeed there is generally great difficulty in -making them eat it. They are right, as it is very unwholesome for them, -unless the very leanest bits are selected from among the mass of fat. - -Have tarragon vinegar on the table to eat with corned beef and cabbage. - - -FRIED CORNED BEEF.--This is a very homely and economical dish, but it is -liked by many persons. Cut thin slices from a cold round of beef, and -season them with pepper. Fry them brown over a quick fire, and put them -in a covered dish to keep hot. Then wash the frying-pan, cleaning it -well from the fat, and put into it plenty of cold boiled cabbage, cut -small, and some cold carrots, sliced thin, adding some thin sliced suet, -or beef dripping to fry them in. When done, dish the meat with the -vegetables laid around it; adding the gravy. This is the dish called in -England, Bubble-and-Squeak, perhaps from the noise it makes when frying. -It is only designed for strong healthy people with good appetites. - -It is sometimes made of salt pork or bacon; sliced potatos being added -to the cabbage. - - -DRIED AND SMOKED BEEF.--For this purpose have as much as you want cut -off from a fine round. Mix together two ounces of saltpetre, (finely -pounded) rub it into the meat, cover it, and let it stand a day. Then -mix together half a pound of bay-salt, an ounce of black pepper, half an -ounce of ground ginger, and an ounce of pounded mace, and a quarter of -an ounce of powdered cloves. Rub this mixture well into the beef, put it -into a deep pan, and let it lie in this pickle two weeks, turning it -every day. Then hang it up in a smoke-house, and smoke it over a fire -made of corn-cobs, or maple chips. Never use pine for smoking. - -It may be eaten chipped at tea, or what is much better, stewed and -warmed in a skillet. Venison may be spiced, dried, and smoked in the -same manner. - - -TO STEW SMOKED BEEF.--Having chipped it thin, put it into a skillet, -with fresh butter, pepper, and two or three beaten yolks of eggs. Let it -stew till the beef is crisp and curled up. - -Never allow yourself to be persuaded to use pyroligneous acid in curing -dried beef or ham--instead of the real smoke of a wood fire. It -communicates a taste and smell of kreosote, and is a detestable -substitute, detected in a moment. - - -A SPICED ROUND OF BEEF.--Take a large prime round of beef; extract the -bone, and close the hole. Tie a tape all round it to keep it firm. Take -four ounces of finely powdered saltpetre, and rub it well into the beef. -Put the meat into a very clean pickling-tub that has a close-fitting -cover, and let it rest for two days. Next rub it thoroughly with salt, -and return it to the tub for eight days. Then take an ounce of powdered -mace, a large nutmeg powdered, a half-ounce of pepper, and a quarter of -an ounce of powdered cloves, (not more.) Mix these spices well -together, and then mix them with a pound of fine brown sugar. Rub the -spices and sugar thoroughly all over the beef, which will be ready to -cook next day. Then fill the opening with minced sweet herbs, sweet -basil, and sweet marjoram, laid in loosely and lightly. Take half a -pound of nice beef-suet. Divide it in two, and flatten each half of the -suet by beating it with a rolling-pin. Lay it in a broad earthen pan, -with one sheet of suet under the meat, and the other pressed over it. -Above this place a sheet of clean white paper, and over all put a large -plate. Set it in a hot oven, and bake it five hours or more, till by -probing it to the bottom, with a sharp knife, you find it thoroughly -cooked. It is excellent as a cold standing dish, for a large family. -When it is to be eaten cold, boil fresh cabbage to go with it. Also -parsnips and carrots. - -_Cabbage._--For this beef, red cabbage is very nice, cut small, and -stewed with butter and tarragon vinegar. - - -A-LA-MODE BEEF.--Remove the bone from a fine round of fresh beef, and -also take off the fat. For a round that weighs ten pounds, make -seasoning or stuffing in the following proportions. Half a pound of beef -suet; half a pound of grated bread-crumbs; the crumbled yolks of three -hard-boiled eggs; a large bundle of sweet marjoram, the leaves chopped; -another of sweet basil; four onions minced small, a large table-spoonful -of mixed mace and nutmeg, powdered. Season slightly with salt and -cayenne. Stuff this mixture into the place from whence you took out the -bone. Make numerous deep cuts or incisions about the meat, and stuff -them also. Skewer the meat into a proper shape, and secure its form by -tying it round with tape. Put it into a clean iron oven or bake-pan, and -pour over it a pint of port wine. Put on the lid, and bake the beef -slowly for five or six hours, or till it is thoroughly done all through. - -If the meat is to be eaten hot, skim all the fat from the gravy; into -which, after it is taken off the fire, stir in the beaten yolks of two -eggs. - -If onions are disliked you can omit them, and substitute minced oysters. - - -BEEF A-LA-MODE--(_Another way._)--Take a fine round of fresh beef, -extract the bone, and fill the place from whence it was taken with a -stuffing made of bread soaked in milk and then mashed up, butter, and -some yolks of hard-boiled eggs crumbled fine, the yellow rind and juice -of a large grated lemon, sweet marjoram and sweet basil chopped small, -with some powdered nutmeg and mace. Make deep cuts or incisions all over -the outside of the meat, and in every cut stick firmly a slip of bacon -or salt pork put in with a larding-pin. Bring round the flap and skewer -to the side of the round, filling in between with some of the stuffing. -And pour round it a pint or more of port wine. Lay it in an oven, and -bake it slowly till it is well done all through, which will require -some hours. Serve it up with its own gravy under it. It is more -generally eaten cold, at a supper party. In this case, cover it thickly -all over with double parsley or pepper grass, so as to resemble a green -bank. In the centre place a bouquet of natural flowers, rising from the -green bank. - -French a-la-mode beef, or beef _a-la-daube_, is prepared as above, but -stewed slowly all night in lard. - - -BEEF BOUILLI.--Take from six to eight pounds of a fine round of _fresh_ -beef. Put it into a soup-pot, with the remains of a piece of cold roast -beef (bones and all) to enrich the gravy, but use no other cold meat -than beef. Season it slightly with salt and pepper, and pour on just -sufficient water to cover it well. Boil it slowly, and skim it well. -When the scum ceases to rise, have ready half a dozen large carrots, cut -into pieces, and put _them_ in first. Afterwards add six turnips, -quartered; a head of celery, cut small; half a dozen parsnips, cut in -pieces; and six whole onions. Let it boil slowly till all the vegetables -are done, and very tender. - -Send it to table with the beef in the middle of a large dish; the -vegetables laid all around it; and the gravy (thickened with fine grated -bread-crumbs) in a sauce-boat. Serve up with it, white potatos, boiled -whole; and mashed pumpkin, or winter squash. - -This is a good dinner for a plain family. - -Those who like tarragon mustard, or tarragon vinegar, may add it on -their plates. - -Tomatos may be skinned and stewed with it. - - -TO STEW COLD CORNED BEEF.--Cut about four pounds of lean from a cold -round of beef, that tastes but little of the salt. Lay it in a stew-pan, -with a quarter of a peck of tomatos quartered, and the same quantity of -ochras sliced; also, two small onions peeled and sliced, and two ounces -of fresh butter rolled in flour. Add a tea-spoonful of whole -pepper-corns, (_no salt_,) and four or five blades of mace. Place it -over a steady but moderate fire. Cover it closely, and let it stew three -or four hours. The vegetables should be entirely dissolved. Serve it up -hot. - -This is an excellent way of using up the remains of a cold round of beef -at the season of tomatos and ochras, particularly when the meat has been -rather under-boiled the first day of cooking it. - -A few pounds of the lean of a _fresh_ round of beef, will be still -better, cooked in this manner, increasing the quantity of ochras and -tomatos, and stewing it six hours. - -Cold fillet of veal is very good stewed with tomatos, ochras, and an -onion or two. Also, the thick or upper part of a cold leg of mutton; or -of pork, either fresh or corned. - - -TO STEW SMOKED BEEF.--The dried beef, for this purpose, must be fresh -and of the very best quality. Cut it (or rather shave it) into very -thin, small slices, with as little fat as possible. Put the beef into a -skillet, and fill up with boiling water. Cover it, and let it soak or -steep till the water is cold. Then drain off that water, and pour on -some more; but merely enough to cover the chipped beef, which you may -season with a little pepper. Set it over the fire, and (keeping on the -cover) let it stew for a quarter of an hour. Then roll a few bits of -butter in a little flour, and add it to the beef, with the yolk of one -or two beaten eggs. Let it stew five minutes longer. Take it up on a hot -dish, and send it to the breakfast or tea-table. - -Cold ham may be sliced thin, and stewed in the same manner. Dried -venison also. - - -FRENCH BEEF.--Take a circular piece from the round, (having removed the -bone,) and trim it nicely from the fat, skin, &c. Then lard it all over -with long slips of fat pork or bacon. The place from whence the bone was -taken must be filled with a forcemeat, made of minced suet, grated -bread-crumbs, sweet marjoram rubbed fine, and grated lemon-peel; add a -little salt and pepper. Tie a tape closely round the outside of the -beef, to keep it compact, and in shape. Put it into a broad earthen jar -with a cover; or into an iron bake-oven. Add some whole pepper, a large -onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, three bay-leaves, a quarter of a pound of -butter, divided into small bits, (each piece rolled in flour,) and half -a pint of claret, or port wine. Bake or stew it thus in its own liquor, -for five, six, or seven hours, (in proportion to its size,) for it must -be thoroughly done, quite tender, and brown all through the inside. - - -STEWED FRESH BEEF.--Cut a square thick piece of beef from the round or -sirloin, and trim off the fat. Put it into a stew-pan with just water -enough to cover it, and season it slightly with salt and pepper. Let it -stew slowly, till tender all through. Then add potatos pared and -quartered, turnips the same; and also, parsnips split and cut short, and -(if approved) a few sliced onions. Stew altogether till the vegetables -are thoroughly cooked, and then serve up the whole on one large dish. - -Mutton, veal, and fresh pork, may be stewed in the same manner. Sweet -potatos, scraped and split, are excellent served with fresh meat. There -should be a great plenty of vegetables, as they are much liked in stews. -What is called an Irish stew is fresh beef stewed with potatos only--the -potatos being first pared, and cut in quarters. - -For economy, cold roast beef may be stewed next day with fresh potatos -cut up, and as little water as possible. Cold potatos, if re-cooked, are -always hard, tough, and unwholesome. - - -STEWED BEEFSTEAKS WITH OYSTERS.--Take some fine tender beef-steaks cut -from the sirloin. If they are taken from the round they should be beaten -with a rolling-pin to make them tender. Put them into a close stew-pan, -with barely sufficient water to prevent their burning, and set them over -the fire to brown. When they are browned, add sufficient oyster-liquor -to cook them, and some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Let them -stew slowly for an hour, or till they are thoroughly done. Then add -three or four dozen of fine large fresh oysters, in proportion to the -quantity of meat, seasoning them well with nutmeg, a few blades of mace, -and a little cayenne. Cover the pan, and simmer them till the oysters -are well plumped, but not till they come to a boil. When all is properly -cooked, transfer the whole to a deep dish, and send it to table hot. - -The meat, when preparing, should be cut into pieces about as large as -the palm of your hand, and an inch thick, omitting the fat. Small clams -may be substituted for oysters. - - -TOMATO STEWED BEEF.--Take large ripe tomatos, and scald them, to make -the skins peel off easily. Pare, quarter them, and sprinkle them with a -little salt and pepper. Lay in a stew-pan some thin tender beef-steaks, -lamb, mutton-chops, or cutlets of fresh pork. Bury the meat in the -tomatos, and add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour and a little -sugar to take off the extreme acid of the tomatos; also, an onion or -two, very finely minced. Let the whole cook slowly till the meat is -thoroughly done, and the tomatos dissolved to a pulp. Send it to table -all on the same dish. - -A rabbit or chicken, (cut apart as for carving,) is very good stewed -with tomatos. Freshly killed venison is excellent for this stew. - -Many persons mix grated bread with tomato stew. We think it weakens the -taste--a thing not desirable in any cooking. - -This stew must not have a drop of water in it; the tomatos will give out -sufficient liquid to cook the meat. There is not a more wholesome dish. - - -BEEF STEWED WITH ONIONS.--Take a square piece of beef from the sirloin, -where there is no bone or fat. With a sharp knife make very deep -incisions all over it, but not quite so deep as to cut it through to the -bottom. Prepare a forcemeat by peeling and boiling some onions. Then -drain and mince them. Mix in with the onions some fine bread-crumbs, and -some chopped sweet-marjoram, (seasoning with powdered nutmeg and mace,) -and fill tightly all the incisions. Put into the bottom of a stew-pan -some drippings of roast-beef, or else a piece of fresh butter rolled in -flour. Lay the seasoned meat upon it. Let it stew till completely -cooked, and no redness to be found in any part of it. Serve it up hot, -and send it to table in its own gravy. - -A round or fillet of fresh pork may be cooked as above, putting into the -incisions, or holes, powdered sage instead of sweet marjoram, with the -onions and crumbs; and using lard instead of beef-drippings. Eat apple -sauce with it. - - -BEEF STEWED WITH OYSTERS.--Prepare two or three pounds of the best beef, -by trimming off all the fat, and removing the bone. Lay in the bottom of -the stew-pan a few bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Then put in the -meat, and sprinkle a little pepper over each piece. Have ready a quart -of large fresh oysters. Strain the liquor to clear it from bits of the -shell, and pour it over the meat in the stew-pan. Stew the meat in the -oyster liquor till it is thoroughly cooked, skimming it well, and -keeping it covered, except when skimming. Then add grated nutmeg, and a -few blades of mace. Lastly, put in the oysters, and let them remain in -just long enough to plump, which will be in a few minutes. If cooked too -much oysters always shrivel, and become hard and tough. When all is -done, serve up the whole in one dish. - -In the same manner clams may be stewed with beef. Never put any salt -where there are clams. They are quite salt enough in themselves. - - -FRENCH STEW.--Cut into pieces two or three pounds of the lean of fresh -tender beef, mutton, veal, or pork, and peel and slice a quarter of a -peck or more of ripe tomatos. Season the whole with a little pepper and -salt. Add, if you choose, a tea-spoonful of sugar to moderate the -extreme acid of the tomatos. Put the whole together into a stew-pot, and -cover it closely, opening it occasionally to see how it is doing. Put no -water to this stew, the juice of the tomatos will cook it thoroughly. -Add a large table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves. When the tomatos -are all dissolved, stir in a piece of fresh butter, dredged with flour. -Let it stew about a quarter of an hour longer. When the meat is quite -tender all through, and every thing well done, make some sippets of -triangular shaped toast, with the crust trimmed off. Dip the toast, for -a moment, in hot water; butter and stand it up all round the inside of a -deep dish. Then fill it with the stew, and serve it hot. Any meat may be -stewed thus with tomatos. - - -POTATO BEEF.--This is an excellent family dish. Boil some potatos till -well done, all through. Peel them, put them into a large pan, and mash -them smoothly, adding, as you proceed, some milk, and one or more beaten -eggs, well mixed into the potatos. Rub the bottom of a white ware -pudding dish with nice butter, or some drippings of cold beef, and cover -it with a thick layer of mashed potatos. Next, put in thin slices of -beef, (omitting the fat,) enough to cover the potatos. Next, add -another layer of mashed potatos, evenly and thickly spread. Then, more -thin slices of beef, and then more potatos. Do this, till the dish is -full; finishing it with potatos, on the top, heaping them up in the -centre. Bake it in an oven. There must be plenty of potatos, as they -will be much liked. - - -BEEF AND MUSHROOMS.--Take three pounds of the best sirloin steaks. -Season them with black pepper and a very little salt, having removed the -fat and bone. Put a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter into a -frying-pan, and set it over the fire. When it is boiling hot, put in the -steaks, and fry them brown. Have ready a quart of very fresh mushrooms, -peeled and stemmed. If large, cut them in four. Season them with a -little pepper and salt, and dredge them lightly with flour, and add a -few bits of butter. Stew them in a separate pan kept closely covered. -When the steaks are done, pour the mushrooms over them with all their -juice. Put them all (steaks and mushrooms) into a dish with a cover, and -serve them up hot. - -This is a breakfast dish, or a side dish for dinner. Unless the company -is very small, four pounds of beef steaks, at least, and three pints of -mushrooms, (with butter in proportion) will be required at dinner, as it -will be much liked. - - -BEEF'S HEART.--Wash the heart well, and soak it in a pan of tepid water -till all the blood is drawn out of the ventricles, and it is made very -clean and dry. Next par-boil it a quarter of an hour. Then stuff the -cavities with a forcemeat made of minced veal, bread-crumbs, butter or -minced suet, and sweet herbs, seasoned with a little pepper and nutmeg; -or it may be stuffed simply with sage and onions. Sew up the openings -with coarse brown thread, lest the forcemeat should fall out. Put the -heart on a spit, and roast it before a clear fire, for near two hours; -basting it well with nice fresh butter. Thicken the gravy with a little -flour, and stir into it a glass of port wine, or of tarragon vinegar. -Have ready a hot dish and a heated cover. Serve up the heart as hot as -possible, for it soon chills, and pour the gravy around it. The gravy -should be heated to a boil in a small sauce-pan. - -_Calves' Hearts_ are cooked in the same manner. As they are small, it -takes four calves' hearts to make a dish. - -Hearts may be sliced and stewed with onions and sweet herbs, adding to -the stew a little salad oil. - - -BEEF PATTIES.--A nice way of disposing of underdone roast beef, is to -mince fine all the lean, and a _very little_ of the fat. Season it with -cayenne, and powdered nutmeg, or mace, or else chopped sweet herbs. If -you have any stewed mushroom-gravy, moisten the meat with that. Make a -nice paste, and cut it into small circular sheets, rolled out not very -thin. Cover one half of each sheet of paste with the minced beef (not -too near the edge) and fold over the other half, so as to form a half -moon. Wet your fingers with cold water, and pinch together the two edges -of the half moon. Then crimp them with a sharp knife. Lay the patties in -square baking pans, prick them with a fork, and bake them brown. Or you -may fry them in lard. Serve them up hot, as side dishes. - -Cold veal, minced with cold ham, or tongue, makes very nice patties; -also cold chicken or turkey. - - -A BEEF STEAK PIE.--Stew two pounds or more, of fine tender sirloin -steaks, divested of fat and bone, and cut rather thin. Season them with -a very little salt and pepper; and, when about half done, remove them -from the fire, and keep them warm, saving all the gravy. Make a nice -paste, allowing to two quarts of flour one pound and a quarter of fresh -butter. Divide the butter into four quarters. Rub one half into the pan -of flour, and make it into a dough with, a very little cold water. Roll -it out into a large sheet, and with a broad knife stick over it, at -equal distances, one of the remaining divisions of butter. Then sprinkle -it with more flour, fold it, and roll it out again into a large sheet. -Put on the remainder of the butter in bits, as before. Then fold it -again. Cut the paste into equal halves, and roll them out into two -sheets, trimmed into round or oval forms. With one sheet line a -pie-dish, and fill it with your meat, adding, if convenient, some -mushrooms, or some fresh oysters, or the soft part of a few clams, and -some blades of mace. Use the other sheet of paste as a cover for the -pie, uniting the edges with the under crust by crimping it nicely. Of -the trimmings of the paste, make an ornament or tulip, and stick it into -the slit at the top of the pie. - - -MEAT PIES--May be made in the above manner of lamb, veal, or pork. Also -of venison or any sort of fresh meat. Pie crust for baking should be -shortened with butter, or with the dripping of roast beef, veal, or -_fresh_ pork. Mutton or lamb dripping are unfit for pie crust, as they -make it taste of tallow. Suet will not do at all for _baked_ paste, -though very good if the paste is to be boiled. Butter and lard will make -a nice plain paste for pies, if both are fresh and good; the butter to -be rubbed into the flour, mixed with a little cold water, and rolled -out; the lard to be spread evenly all over the sheet; then folded and -rolled out again. Meat pies should always have a bottom crust, as the -gravy it imbibes makes it very relishing. Veal pies are insipid without -the addition of some cold ham. - -Pies made of game should have a puff-paste, as they are generally for -company. - -On the shores of the Chesapeake, very fine pies are made of canvas-back, -or red-neck ducks, when in season. They require puff-paste to be made -in perfection. Pot-pies of these ducks are, of course, excellent. - - -A BEEF STEAK POT-PIE.--Take two pounds or more of tender beef steaks, -exclusive of the fat and bone, which must be omitted; the steaks from -the sirloin end, cut less than an inch thick, and not larger than four -or five inches square. Put them into a pot with enough water to cover -them, and season them slightly with pepper and salt. Dredge them with a -little flour, and lay on each a morsel of nice fresh butter. Stew the -steaks for half an hour. Meanwhile make a large portion of paste; -allowing to every quart or pound of flour, a small half pound of nice -beef-suet, entirely freed from all its skin and strings, and minced with -a chopper as finely as possible. To three pounds of beef allow four -quarts of flour and not quite two pounds of suet. A pot-pie with but -little paste in proportion to the meat, is no better than a stew. The -paste, if good, is always much liked. Divide the minced suet into two -halves. Rub or crumble one half the suet into the pan of flour; adding -by degrees a little _cold_ water, barely enough to make a stiff dough; -first mixing in a small tea-spoonful of salt. Roll out the lump of dough -into a large sheet, and spread it all over with the remainder of the -minced suet, laid on with a broad knife. Then fold it up, and set it on -a dish in a cool place, to get quite cold. Take a large iron pot, made -very clean. Lay in the bottom the largest pieces of beef steak, and -line round the sides with pieces of the paste, cut to fit. Next put in -the remainder of the meat, interspersed with raw potatos sliced, (either -white or sweet potatos,) and also pieces of the paste cut into squares, -and laid among the meat, to which must be added the gravy saved from the -stew. When the pot is nearly full, cover its contents with a large round -or circular piece of paste. This must not fit _quite closely_, but a -little space or crack must be left all around for the gravy to bubble up -as it boils. Before you put on the lid pour in half a pint, or more, of -water. Cut a cross-slit in the centre of the top-crust. Set the pot over -a good fire, and let it boil steadily, till all is done, meat and paste. -The upper-crust should be well-browned. When cooked, serve the whole -upon one large dish, laying the brown upper-crust on the top of all. If -there is too much gravy, send some of it to table in a sauce-boat, first -skimming it. - -It will be improved by adding to the seasoning some nutmeg or powdered -mace. These are the only spices that accord well with meat or poultry. - - -POT-PIES.--The preceding receipt is good for any sort of pot-pie. They -are all on the same principle. The meat to be divested of the fat, and -stewed first in a pot by itself, saving the gravy. The paste (of which -there should always be an ample allowance) sufficient to line the sides -of the pot all round, and reaching up nearly to the top, besides plenty -of small square pieces to intersperse with the meat, and an upper crust -to cover the whole. At the very bottom the meat and gravy only, as there -the paste might burn. Pot-pies may be made of any sort of fresh meat, or -of fowls or any sort of poultry (cut up, as if for carving,) and -previously stewed. If made of chickens or pigeons or rabbits, add a few -slices of cold ham and put no other salt. For want of suet you may make -the paste with butter, but it must be fresh and good. Allow half a pound -of butter to a large quart of flour. Potato paste is tolerable for -shortening pot-pies, if you make it half mashed potato and half lard. We -do not recommend bread dough or any thing raised with yeast or soda for -boiled paste; when there is no shortening, boiled paste is always tough -and unwholesome. - -Pot-pies may be made of apples pared, cored, and quartered; of peaches -quartered and stoned, or of any nice fruit. Fruit pot-pies should have -butter paste, and be well sweetened with brown sugar. - -All boiled dough should be eaten warm. It falls and becomes heavy as -soon as cold. - - -BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.--After clearing it from the skin and strings, mince -as fine as possible three quarters of a pound of nice beef suet. Sift -into a pan two small quarts of flour. Rub half the suet into the flour, -and make it into a paste with a little cold water, (as little as -possible.) Roll it out into a large sheet, and spread over it, evenly, -the other half of the minced suet. Fold it, flour it, roll it again, -and divide it unequally into two pieces, one nearly three times larger -than the other. Roll them out, rather thick than thin. Have ready a -large pound and a quarter of tender-loin beef steak, that has been cut -into thin pieces (without fat or bone, seasoned with a very little salt -and pepper, and some nutmeg) and half-stewed, saving its gravy. Lay this -meat upon the large thick sheet of crust; pour the stewed gravy among -it, and add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Cover it with the -small round of paste, cut to fit, only allowing the lid large enough to -project a little over, so as to be joined firmly by pressing it all -round with your fingers. Do it well and securely, that it may not come -apart while boiling. Dip a large square pudding-cloth in hot -water--shake it out--lay it in a deep pan, dredge it with flour, lay the -pudding into it and tie it firmly, leaving room for swelling. Put it -into a large pot of boiling water, and boil it till, on probing with a -fork, you find the meat quite tender. - -Or you may boil it in a large bowl with a rim, tying the cloth carefully -all over the top. Set the bowl in a pot of boiling water. - - -TO BOIL TRIPE.--Clean the tripe very carefully, giving it a thorough -scraping, and washing in warm water, and trim off the superfluous fat. -Lay it all night in weak salt and water. Then wash it again. Let it lie -an hour or two in milk and water, and then boil it five hours or more, -putting it on in cold water. It must be perfectly tender throughout. -This should be done the day _before_ it is to be cooked for dinner. On -that day, cut it into strips or bands, roll them with the fat side -inwards. Tie the rolls round with small white twine, and boil them two -hours longer; or till they are _perfectly tender throughout, and incline -to look transparent near the edges_. Have ready in a saucepan, some -onions peeled; and boil in milk and water, till soft enough to mash. -Then take them out; drain them; mix with the onion-water some nice fresh -butter divided into pieces and rolled in flour. When this has come to a -boil, return the onions to the liquor; season them with pepper, and give -them one boil up. When the tripe is done, transfer it to a deep dish, -and pour the onion sauce over it. When on your plate, add to it some -tarragon vinegar or mustard. Take the strings off before the tripe goes -to table. - - -TRIPE CURRY.--Having boiled two pounds of double tripe, cut it into -slips, peel two large onions, cut them also into dice, and put them into -a stew-pan, with three ounces, or three table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. -Let them stew till brown, stirring frequently, and mixing in a -table-spoonful of curry-powder. Add a pint of milk, and the cut-up -tripe. Let all stew together for an hour or more, skimming it well. -Serve it up in a tureen or deep dish, with a dish of boiled rice to eat -with it. - -A good East India receipt for curry-powder, is to pound, very fine, in -a marble mortar, (made very clean,) six ounces of coriander seed, three -quarters of an ounce of cayenne, one ounce and a half of foenugreek -seed; one ounce of cummin seed, and three ounces of turmeric. These -articles (all of which can be obtained at a druggist's,) being pounded -extremely fine, must be sifted through clean thin muslin, and spread on -a dish, and laid before the fire for three hours, stirring them -frequently. Keep this powder in a bottle with a glass stopper. It is -used for giving an East Indian flavor to stews. The turmeric -communicates a fine yellow color. - -Boiled rice is always eaten with curry dishes. - -Curry balls for Mock Turtle, &c., are made of bread-crumbs, fresh -butter, hard-boiled yolk of egg, chopped fine, a seasoning of curry -powder, and some beaten raw egg, to make the mixture into balls, about -the size of a hickory-nut. - - -FRIED TRIPE.--Having boiled the tripe till perfectly tender all through; -cut it into pieces three or four inches square. Make a batter of four -beaten eggs, four table-spoonfuls of flour, and a pint of milk, seasoned -with powdered nutmeg or mace. Have boiling in the frying-pan an ample -quantity of the drippings of roast veal, or beef. Dip each piece of -tripe twice into the batter; then lay it in the pan, and fry it brown. -Send it to table hot. - -Tripe was long considered very indigestible. This, it is now found, was -a mistake; physicians having discovered that it is quite the contrary, -the gastric juice that it contained, as the stomach of the animal, -rendering it singularly fitted for digestion, provided that it is -thoroughly cooked; so that on trial, a fork can easily penetrate every -part of it. - - -TONGUES.--Corned or salted tongues are very little in use now. They -spoil so soon, that it is scarcely possible to obtain one that has not -been salted too late; and when quite fresh, they have a faint, -sickening, doubtful taste. It is best always to buy them dried and -smoked. Choose the largest and plumpest, and with as smooth an outside -or skin as you can. Put a tongue into soak the evening before it is to -be cooked; changing the water at bed-time. In the morning wash it in -fresh water. Trim off the root, which is an unsightly object, and never -carved at table. But it may be cut into pieces, and added to pea-soup, -or bean-soup, or pepper-pot. Put on the tongue in a large pot of cold -water, and boil it steadily for five or six hours, till it is so tender -that a straw, or a twig from a corn-broom, will easily penetrate it. -When you find that it is thoroughly done (and not till then) take it up. -A smoked tongue requires more boiling than a ham, and therefore is -seldom sufficiently cooked. When quite done, peel it carefully, and keep -it warm till dinner. If well-boiled, it will seem almost to melt in your -mouth. When you dish it do not split it. The flavor is much injured by -carving it lengthways, or in long pieces. It should be cut in round -slices, not too thin. - -For a large party we have seen two cold tongues on one dish. One of them -whole--the root concealed entirely with double parsley, cut paper, or a -bunch of flowers cut out of vegetables, very ingeniously, with a sharp -penknife--the vegetables raw, of course not to be eaten. Red roses made -of beets, white roses or camellias of turnips, marigolds of carrots, &c. -The stems are short wooden skewers, stuck into the flowers, and -concealed by double parsley. These vegetable bouquets can be made to -look very well, as ornaments to cold tongue, or to the end of the shank -of a ham, or to stick into the centre of a cold round of a-la-mode beef. - -Where there are two cold tongues on one dish, it is usual to split one -to be helped lengthways, and garnish it with the other, cut into -circular pieces, and laid handsomely round. - -Cold tongue sliced is a great improvement to a chicken pie, or to any -bird pie. - - -BAKED TONGUE.--Having soaked a fine large smoked tongue all night, in -the morning trim it nicely, and if it still seems hard, soak it again in -fresh cold water till it is time to cook it. Then put it into a deep -dish, (having trimmed off the root,) and make a coarse paste of flour -and water. Cut up the roots into little bits, and lay them round and -about the tongue, to enrich the gravy. Lay all along the surface some -bits of butter rolled in flour, and season with a little pepper--no -salt. Pour in a very little water, and cover the dish with the coarse -paste. Bake it till the tongue is very tender. This you may ascertain by -raising up with a knife one corner of the paste and trying the tongue. -When done, peel it, dish it, strain the gravy over the tongue, and send -it to table. Garnish with baked tomatos, or mushrooms, or large roasted -chestnuts peeled. - -For a large company have two baked tongues, one at each end of the -table. Eat them warm. - - -LARDED TONGUE.--Take a large cold tongue, that has been well boiled. -Trim off the roots. Have ready some slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, -cut into long thin pieces, about as thick as straws. With a larding -needle, draw them through the outside of the tongue, and leave them -there. Arrange the borders in rows, or handsome regular forms, leaving -about an inch standing up on the surface. - -Cold meat or poultry is far better for larding than that which is yet to -cook. - - -TONGUE TOAST.--Make some slices of nice toast, not very thick, but -browned evenly all over, on both sides. Trim off the whole of the crust. -Butter the toast slightly. Grate, with a large grater plenty of cold -tongue, and spread it thickly over the toast. Lay the slices side by -side, on a large dish--not one slice on the top of another. - -Serve them up at breakfast, luncheon, or supper. - - -HAM TOAST--Is prepared in the same manner, of grated cold ham spread on -slices of buttered toast. - - -SANDWICHES--Are slices of cold ham, or tongue, _cut very thin_, and laid -between thin slices of buttered bread. The meat may be seasoned with -French mustard. Roll them up nicely. There are silver cases made to -contain sandwiches to eat on the road when traveling. - -Sandwiches for traveling may be made of the _lean_ of cold beef, (roast -or boiled,) cut very thin, seasoned with French mustard, and laid -between two slices of bread and butter. - - - - -MUTTON. - - -MUTTON.--If mutton is good it is of a fine grain; the lean is of a -bright red color, and the fat firm and white. Unless there is plenty of -fat the lean will not be good; and so it is with all meat. If the lean -is of a very dark red, and coarse and hard, and the fat yellowish and -spongy, the mutton is old, tough, and strong. Therefore, do not buy it. -If there is any dark or blackish tint about the meat, it is tainted, and -of course unwholesome. If kept till it acquires what the English call -venison taste, Americans will very properly refuse to eat it. - -We give no directions for disguising spoilt meat. It should be thrown -away. Nothing is fit to eat in which decomposition is commencing. - - -BOILED LOIN OF MUTTON.--A good loin of mutton is always very fat, so -that in cooking it is well to remove or pare off a portion of the -outside fat. Unlike most other meats, mutton is the better for being -boiled in soup. Put it into a large pot; allow to every pound a quart of -water. Boil it slowly and skim it well, adding the vegetables when the -scum has done rising. The vegetables should be sliced turnips, potatos, -and grated carrots. Have ready plenty of suet dumplings, in the -proportion of half a pound of finely minced suet to a pound and a -quarter of flour. Rub the suet into the pan of flour, and use as little -water as possible in mixing the dough. Make it into thick dumplings, -rather larger round than a dollar. Boil them in a pot by themselves, -till thoroughly done. Serve up the meat with the dumplings round it. Or -put the dumplings in a dish by themselves, and surround the meat with -whole turnips. This is an excellent plain dish for a private family. -Serve up pickles with it. - - -SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON.--This particularly applies to mutton that has -been boiled in soup, and which is so very generally liked, that it is -served up on tables where soup-meat of beef and veal is considered -inadmissible. To make a suitable sauce to eat with it--take two or three -large boiled onions; slice them and put them into a sauce-pan, with a -piece of fresh butter slightly rolled in flour, a table-spoonful of -_made_ mustard. French mustard will be best; or, for want of that, two -table-spoonfuls of strong tarragon vinegar, and a half-salt-spoon of -cayenne, and some pickled cucumbers chopped, but not minced. Green -nasturtion seeds will be still better than cucumbers. Put these -ingredients into a small sauce-pan, adding to them a little of the -mutton soup. Set this sauce over the fire, and when it simmers well, -take it off, put into a sauce-boat, and keep it hot till the mutton goes -to table. - -To keep nasturtions--take the full-grown green seeds, and put them into -a large bottle of the best _cider_ vinegar, corking them closely. They -require nothing more, and are far superior to capers. - - -BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.--After nicely trimming a middle-sized leg of -mutton, wash, but do not soak it. Put it into a pot that will hold it -well, and pour on rather more water than is sufficient to cover it. Set -it over a good fire, and skim it as soon as it begins to boil, and -continue till no more scum appears; having thrown in a small -table-spoonful of salt after the first skimming. After the liquid is -clear, put in some turnips, pared, and, if large, divided into four -pieces. Afterwards it should boil slowly, or simmer gently for about two -hours or more. Send to table with it caper sauce; or nasturtion, which -is still better. Eat it with any sort of green pickles. Pickles and -turnips seem indispensable to boiled mutton. Do not mash the turnips, -but let them be well drained. - -Setting boiled turnips in the sun will give them an unpleasant taste. - -Tarragon sauce is excellent with boiled mutton. - - -MUTTON STEAKS STEWED.--Take some tender mutton steaks, cut from the leg. -Beat them a little with a rolling pin, and season them with pepper and -salt. Put them into a stew-pan with sliced potatos, sliced turnips, -sliced onions, sliced or grated carrots, and sweet marjoram leaves -stripped from the stalks. Pour in just sufficient water to cover the -stew, and let it cook slowly till it is tender and well done. Serve it -up hot in a deep dish, with a cover. A table-spoonful of tarragon -mustard will improve the stew. - -When tomatos are in season, you can stew mutton or any other meat with -tomatos only--no water. Having prepared the meat, and laid it in the -stew-pan, cover it with tomatos, peeled and quartered. Add some sugar to -take off a portion of their acid, and a chopped onion. No water, as the -meat will cook in the liquid of the tomatos. They must stew till -thoroughly dissolved. - -Tender-loin beef steaks--or veal cutlets, may be stewed as above. - - -MUTTON CHOPS BROILED.--The best steaks are those cut from the loin, -about half an inch thick. Divest them of the bone, and remove the skin -and fat. Then butter them slightly all over, before cooking. This will -be found an improvement. The French go over them with salad oil, which -is still better. Sprinkle on them a little pepper and salt. Having -heated the gridiron well over a bed of very hot live coals, place it -somewhat aslant, grease its bars with a little of the mutton suet, and -lay on the steaks and broil them well; turning them three or four times, -and seeing that they are not scorched or burnt on the outside, and red -or raw when cut. Turn them with a knife and fork, or with steak-tongs, -an instrument with which every kitchen should be furnished. To cook them -well requires a clear glowing fire, without blaze or smoke. They should -be done in about a quarter of an hour. When you take them up, turn them -on a well-heated dish, and pour their gravy over them. - -If onions are liked, mince one as fine as possible, and strew it over -the steaks while broiling; or, boil and slice some onions, mix some -butter among them, season them with pepper, and a little powdered mace -or nutmeg, and serve them up with the meat on the same dish, or in a -sauce-boat. - - -MUTTON CHOPS WITH TOMATOS.--Broil some mutton steaks in the above -manner, and have ready some baked tomatos. When the steaks are dished, -lay on each a large baked tomato with the face downward, or cover each -steak with stewed tomato sauce. For baking, take fine ripe tomatos of -the largest size. Cut out a piece from the stem end, and extract the -seeds. Then stuff each tomato with grated bread-crumbs, butter, and -minced sweet marjoram, or finely minced onion. If you have any cold veal -or chicken, add a little of that to the stuffing, mincing it, of course. -Bake them in a dish by themselves. - -Or, you may send the steaks to table with a slice of fried egg-plant -laid upon each; buttered, and sprinkled with bread-crumbs. - - -MUTTON STEAKS FRIED.--Make a nice batter of grated bread-crumbs, milk -and beaten egg, and put it in a shallow pan. Prepare some fine steaks -cut from the loin, divested of fat, and with the bone cut short. Have -ready, in a hot frying-pan, some fresh butter or drippings. Dip each -steak twice over in the batter, then fry them brown. Send them to table -very hot. - -You may fry mutton chops like beef steaks, covered with onions, boiled, -drained, and sliced. - - -POTATO MUTTON CHOPS.--Cut some nice chops or steaks from the best end of -a neck of mutton. The loin will be still better. Trim off all the fat, -but leave a small part of the bone visible, nicely scraped. Season them -with pepper and salt, and fry them in butter or drippings. Have ready -plenty of mashed potatos with which cover the chops all over separately, -so as to wrap them up in the mashed potatos. Glaze them with beaten egg, -and brown them with a salamander or a red-hot shovel. This is a nice -breakfast dish. - - -KEBOBBED MUTTON.--This is an Asiatic dish, much approved by those who -have eaten it in Turkey or India, and it is certainly very good. Remove -the skin from a loin of mutton, and also the whole of the fat. Divide it -at every joint, cutting all the steaks apart, and making separate steaks -of the whole loin. Make a mixture of grated bread-crumbs, minced -sweet-herbs, a little salt and pepper, and some powdered nutmeg. Have -ready some beaten yolk of egg. Dip each steak into the egg then; twice -into the seasoning. Roll up each steak round a wooden skewer, and tie -them on a spit with packthread. Roast them before a clear fire, with a -dripping-pan under them to catch the gravy, which must be skimmed -frequently. They must be roasted slowly and carefully, taking care to -have them thoroughly cooked, even to the inmost of every roll. Baste -them with just butter enough to keep them moist. When done, carefully -take the kebobs from the skewers, and send them to table hot. Eat with -them large Spanish chestnuts, roasted and peeled; or else sweet potatos, -split, boiled, and cut into short pieces. Pour the gravy into the dish -under the kebobs. - -Instead of rolling up the kebobs, you may fasten them flat (after -seasoning,) with the same spit going through them all, and roast them in -that manner. They should all be of the same size and shape. To dish -them, lay them one upon another in an even pile. Eat mushroom sauce with -them, or any other sort that is very nice. - -Venison steaks are very good kebobbed in this manner, at the season when -venison can be had fresh, tender, and juicy. For sauce have stewed wild -grapes, mashed and made very sweet with brown sugar, or grape jelly, -which is still better; or, sauce made of fine cranberries, such as -abound in the north-west. - - -AN IRISH STEW.--Take three pounds of thick mutton cutlets from the loin, -and remove the fat. Slice thick five pounds of fine potatos that have -been previously pared. Place a layer of meat in the bottom of a -stew-pan, or an iron pot, and lay some of the potatos upon it. Season -all with salt and pepper. Upon this another layer of meat--then some -potatos again, then meat, and so on till all is in, finishing with -potatos at the top. Pour in a pint of cold water. Let it simmer gently -for two hours or more, till the meat and potatos are thoroughly done. -Serve it up very hot, meat and potatos, on the same dish. If approved, -you may add, from the beginning, one or two sliced onions. - -A similar stew may be made of beef steaks and potatos. - -You may stew pork cutlets in the same manner, but with _sweet_ potatos, -split and cut in long pieces, or with yams. The seasoning for the pork -should be minced sage. - -This is a very plain, but very good dish, if made of nice fresh meat and -good potatos, and well cooked. - - -LAMB.--The vein in the neck of the fore-quarter should be blueish, and -firm--otherwise do not buy it. If greenish or yellowish, it is tainted, -and fit only for manure. Never buy any thing that has been kept too -long. The worst may, by some process, be a little disguised, but nothing -can render wholesome any article of food in which decomposition has -commenced, even in the slightest degree. The fat should be quite white. -If there is but little meat on the shoulder it has not been a good lamb. -In America, where food is abundant, there is no occasion to eat any -thing, that has the flavor in the least changed by keeping. - -A fore-quarter of lamb comprises the shoulder, the neck, and the breast -together. The hind-quarter is the loin and leg. Lamb comes in season in -the beginning of April, if the spring is not unusually backward. - -Jersey lamb is sometimes garlicky early in the season. Avoid buying it; -you can easily tell it by the garlicky smell. It can only be rendered -eatable by stewing, or frying it with plenty of onions. To plain roast -or boil garlicky meat is in vain. Beef, also, is sometimes garlicky. - -Lamb may be cooked in every way that is proper for mutton. - - -ROAST LAMB.--The roasting pieces for lamb are the fore-quarter, and -hind-quarter; and the saddle, or both hind-quarters together, not having -been cut apart. If the saddle is cooked whole, it should be of a small -delicate lamb, nice and fat, and is then a fashionable dish at company -dinners. Like all other young meat lamb should always be thoroughly -done, not the least redness being left perceptible any where about it. A -hind-quarter of eight pounds will require at least two hours--a -fore-quarter, rather longer. It should be placed before a clear brisk -fire, but not very near at first. Put a little water in the -dripping-pan, and baste it with that till it begins to cook, adding a -little nice fresh butter. Then place it nearer the fire, and when the -gravy begins to fall, baste it with that, and repeat the basting very -frequently. When the lamb drops white gravy it is nearly done, and you -may prepare for taking it up. Skim the gravy that is in the dripping-pan -till all the fat is taken off. Then dredge over it a little flour, and -send it to table in a gravy boat, having stirred in one or two -table-spoonfuls of currant jelly. Lettuce is always an accompaniment to -cold lamb. - -In carving a fore-quarter of lamb it is usual to take off the shoulder -from the ribs, put in a slice of fresh butter, sprinkle it with a little -cayenne, and squeeze over the divided parts a fresh lemon cut in half; -and put, for that purpose, on a small plate beside the carver. - -The vegetables to be eaten with lamb are, new potatos, asparagus, green -peas, and spinach. Mint sauce is indispensable. French cooks seldom -understand how to make it. To do it properly, take a large bunch of -fresh green mint, wash it, and when you have shaken the wet from them, -mince the leaves very fine, omitting the stems. Put the leaves, when -chopped, into a small tureen or sauce-boat, and pour on a sufficient -quantity of the best cider vinegar to moisten the mint thoroughly, but -not to render it the least liquid or thin. It should be as thick as -horse-radish, prepared to eat with roast beef. Mix in sufficient sugar -to make it very sweet. Good brown sugar will do. At table put a -tea-spoonful on the side of your plate. Those who make mint sauce thin -and weak, and pour it over the meat like gravy, know nothing about it. - - -LAMB STEAKS.--Cut some nice cutlets or steaks (without any bone) from a -hind-quarter of lamb. Lay them in a stew pan, and season them with a -little salt and cayenne, adding some butter rolled in flour. Wash -carefully two fine fresh lettuces. Remove the outside leaves, quarter -the lettuces, and cut off all the stalks. Set the stew-pan, with the -meat, over a clear fire; and let it stew slowly till about half done. -Then put in the lettuce, covering the meat with it, and let them all -stew about half an hour longer. When done, take out the lettuces first. -Put them into a sieve or cullender, press out the water, and chop them -_large_. See if the meat is done all through. If it is, return the -stewed lettuce to the pot, season it with a little cayenne and some -salad oil, and add to it two or three hard-boiled eggs, chopped large. -Cover it, and let it stew five minutes longer. Serve it up on the same -dish. - - -LAMB CUTLETS.--Cut the cutlets from the loin and trim them nicely, -removing the skin, and most of the fat. Scrape the bone, and cut it -short. Grate plenty of stale bread, and mix it with some minced sweet -marjoram, seasoned with salt and pepper. Have ready a small deep dish of -light beaten egg, flavored with grated nutmeg and fresh lemon-peel, -grated fine, the thin yellow rind only. Put some nice lard or -beef-dripping into a hot frying-pan, and when the lard boils is the time -to put in the cutlets. Dip every cutlet separately into the beaten egg. -Then into the bread-crumbs, &c. Repeat this a second time both with the -egg and bread. The cutlets will be found much better for the double -immersion. Then lay them separately in the boiling lard, and fry them -well. One cutlet must not be laid on the top of another. When done, dish -them and send them to table very hot, with some currant jelly to mix -with the gravy. This is a fine breakfast dish or for a small dinner. - -Instead of frying, you may broil them. Dip each cutlet twice into the -egg and twice into the crumbs, and cover each with clean writing paper, -cut of a convenient shape, and secured with pins or packthread, the -paper being twisted round the end of the bone. Broil them in the papers, -which must be taken off before the cutlets go to table. - - -LAMB CHOPS, STEWED.--Cut a loin of lamb into chops or steaks, removing -the bone, or else sawing it very short. Trim off the skin and part of -the fat. Season the chops with a little pepper and salt, and fry them in -fresh butter till they are of a pale brown color. Then pour off the fat -and transfer the steaks to a stew-pan. Add enough boiling water to cover -them; and having seasoned them with some powdered nutmeg or some blades -of mace, add a pint of shelled green peas that have been already -parboiled, or a pint of the green tops of asparagus cut off after -boiling, and a fresh lettuce stripped of its outside leaves and stalks -and quartered. Finish with a small quarter of a pound of fresh butter -cut in pieces and rolled in flour, and laid among the vegetables. Let -them all stew together with the meat, for half an hour rather slowly. -Serve up all upon one large dish. It will make an excellent plain dinner -for a small family, with the addition of a dish or two of new potatos, -if they are in season. - -You may omit the lettuce, and add more peas and asparagus tops. - - -LARDED LAMB.--Cut off the fillet or round from a nice hind-quarter of -lamb, and remove the bone from the centre. Make a stuffing or forcemeat -of bread-crumbs, fresh butter, sweet marjoram, and sweet basil, minced -finely; the yellow rind of a fresh lemon, grated; and a tea-spoonful of -mixed nutmeg and mace, powdered. Fill with this stuffing the hole from -whence the bone was taken, and secure the flap round the side of the -meat, putting plenty of stuffing between. Then proceed to lard it. Cut a -number of long thin slips of the fat of ham, bacon, or corned pork. All -these slips must be of the same size. Take one at a time between the -points of the larding-needle, and draw it through the flat surface of -the top, or upper side of the meat, so as to leave one end of the ham -in, as you slip the other end out of the needle. Do this nicely, -arranging the slips of ham in regular form, and very near together. Put -the lamb into an iron oven, or bake-pan, with a small portion of lard or -fresh butter under it, and bake it thoroughly. When the meat is about -half done, put in a quart or more of nice green peas with sufficient -butter to cook them well. Serve up the lamb with the peas round it, on -the same dish. - -This is a dish for company. - - -LAMB PIE.--Remove the fat and bone from two pounds or more of nice lamb -steaks, or take some cutlets from the upper end of a leg of lamb, and -cut them into pieces about as large as the palm of your hand. Season -them with pepper and salt very slightly. Put them into a stew pot with a -_very little water_, and let them stew for half an hour or more. In the -mean time, make a nice paste, allowing half a pound of fresh butter to a -pound of flour. Mix with a broad knife half the butter with the flour, -adding gradually enough of cold water to make a dough. Roll out the -dough into a large thin sheet, and spread all over it with the knife the -remainder of the butter. Fold it, sprinkle it with a little flour, and -then divide it into two sheets, and roll out each of them. That intended -for the upper crust to be the thickest. Line with the under crust the -bottom and sides of a pie-dish. Put in the stewed lamb with its gravy. -Intersperse some blades of mace. Add some potatos, sliced, and some -sliced boiled turnips. Cover the meat thick with the green tops of -boiled asparagus, and lay among it a few bits of fresh butter. For -asparagus tops you may substitute boiled cauliflower seasoned with -nutmeg. Put on the paste-lid, closing the edges with crimping them -nicely. Cut a cross-slit on the top. Put the pie directly into the -oven, and bake it of a light brown. Serve it up hot. - - - - -VEAL. - - -VEAL.--Do not buy veal unless the vein in the shoulder looks blue or -bright red. If of any other color, the veal is not fresh. A calf's head -should have the eyes full and prominent. If they are dull and sunken, -the head is stale. The kidney should be well covered with firm white -fat. All the fat must be firm, dry, and white, and the lean fine in the -grain, and light colored. If any part is found clammy or discolored, do -not buy that veal. The best pieces of the calf are the loin and the -fillet. The loin consists of the best and the chump end; the hind -knuckle, and the fore knuckle. The inferior pieces are the neck, -blade-bone, and breast. The brisket end of a breast of veal is very -coarse, hard, and tough; the best end is rather better, having -sweet-bread belonging to it. - -Veal, like all other meat, should be well washed in cold water before -cooking. Being naturally the most tasteless and insipid of all meat, it -requires the assistance of certain articles to give it flavor. It is too -weak to make rich soup without various additions. But well cooked, it is -very nice as roasted loin, fillet, or fried cutlets. - - -ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.--Wash the meat well in cold water, wipe it dry, and -rub it slightly with mixed pepper and salt. Make a stuffing of bread -soaked in milk, or grated bread-crumbs, cold ham minced, sweet marjoram -minced, and the juice and yellow grated rind of a lemon; also, a little -fresh butter. Loosen with a sharp knife the skin, and put the stuffing -under it, skewering down the flap to keep it in. Put the veal to roast -before a strong clear fire, and pour a little water in the bottom of the -roaster. Baste it with this till the gravy begins to run. Then baste it -with that. Set the spit at first not very close to the fire, but bring -it nearer as the roasting proceeds. - -Send it to table with its own gravy, well skimmed and slightly thickened -with a little flour. - -Always choose a fine fresh loin of veal with plenty of fat about the -kidney. No meat spoils so soon. - -The breast and shoulder are roasted in the same manner as the loin, of -which two dishes may be made, the kidney end, and the chump end. - - -FILLET OF VEAL.--When a fillet is to be roasted or baked, let it be well -washed, and then dried in a clean towel. Take out the bone, fold the -flap round, and skewer it to the meat. Make plenty of forcemeat or -stuffing, of bread soaked in milk, or grated dry and mixed with plenty -of fresh butter, or some of the fat or suet finely minced. Season with -pepper, grated nutmeg, powdered mace, fresh lemon peel grated, and sweet -marjoram and sweet basil minced fine. The hole that contained the bone -must be stuffed full, and also the space between the flap and the side -of the meat. This should be secured by three skewers. Dredge the meat -all over lightly with flour before you put it down. At first, place the -spit at a distance from the fire, which should be strong and clear. -Then, as the meat begins to roast, set it nearer, and till the gravy -begins to fall, baste it with fresh butter, or lard. Just before it is -finished, (it will take about four hours,) dredge it with flour, and -baste it well with its own gravy. When the meat is dished, skim the -gravy, thicken it with a little flour, and pour it round the veal in the -dish, or serve it in a sauce-boat. - -A ham is the usual accompaniment to roast veal, whether fillet or loin. - - -ROAST VEAL HASHED.--Take whatever cold roast veal was left from -yesterday. To prepare it for a breakfast dish, cut it into small bits, -and put it (without any water) into a stew-pan, adding to it the veal -gravy that was left from yesterday, and a table-spoonful of fresh butter -or lard, dredged with flour. Cover it, and after stewing it half an hour -by itself, put in two large table-spoonfuls of well spiced tomato -catchup, an article no family should be without. After the catchup is -in, cover the hash again, and let it stew half an hour longer. If you -have no catchup, put in with the cold veal at the beginning, two or -three large ripe tomatos, peeled and quartered, or sliced, and seasoned -with powdered mace, nutmeg, and ginger; and let all stew together in -gravy or butter. Mushroom catchup is a good substitute for tomato in -hashing cold meat. If you have neither, put in a large table-spoonful of -tarragon or French mustard, to be bought in bottles at all the best -groceries. - -Cold roast venison is very good hashed as above. - - -VEAL A-LA-MODE.--Remove the bone from a fillet of veal, and make a large -quantity of forcemeat or stuffing of grated bread-crumbs; beef-suet or -veal-suet minced fine, the grated yellow rind and juice of a ripe lemon -or orange, or some chopped mushrooms that have been previously stewed, -some grated yolk of hard-boiled eggs, and some sweet marjoram. Press in -the stuffing, till the hole left by the bone is well filled; and also, -put stuffing between the flap and the side of the meat, before you -skewer the flap. Have ready some lardons or slips of cold ham, or -tongue, and with a larding pin draw them all through the surface of the -veal. Or else, make deep cuts or incisions throughout the meat, and -press down into each a small thin square bit of bacon-fat, seasoning -every one with a little of the stuffing. Lay the veal in a deep -baking-pan, or iron bake-oven. Surround it with nice lard, and bake it -till thoroughly done all through. Then take it out, skim the gravy, and -transfer it to a small sauce-pan. Stir in a dessert-spoonful of flour; -add a glass of white wine to the gravy, and give it one boil up. Send it -to table in a sauce-tureen, accompanying the veal. - - -TERRAPIN VEAL.--Take some nice veal, (from the fillet, or the loin) and -cut it into very small mouthfuls. Put it into a stew-pan. Have ready a -dressing made of six or seven hard-boiled eggs, minced fine, a small -tea-spoonful of made mustard, (tarragon or French mustard will be best,) -a salt-spoon of salt, and the same of cayenne; two glasses of sherry or -Madeira, and half a pint of rich cream. If you cannot conveniently -obtain cream, substitute a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided -into four pieces, and each piece dredged with flour. All the ingredients -for this dressing must be thoroughly mixed. Then, pour it over the veal, -and give the whole a hard stir. Cover it, and let it stew over the fire -for about ten minutes. Fresh venison is excellent, cooked in this -manner. So, also, are ducks, pheasants, partridges, or grouse, making a -fine side dish for company. - - -TO HASH COLD MEAT.--The best way of re-cooking cold roast meat, (veal, -beef, or pork,) is to hash it, cutting it into mouthfuls, and stewing -it in its own gravy, without a drop of water. For this purpose, save as -much as you can of the dripping or gravy that fell from it when -roasting. When you have done basting the roast meat, skim off all the -fat from the surface, and strain the gravy through a small sieve. What -is left of it, should be carefully set away in a cold place. Next day, -when it has congealed into a cake, scrape it with a knife on both sides. -If not wanted for immediate use, cut it in pieces, and put it up in a -jar well covered. Use it (instead of water) for stews and hashes; and if -well seasoned the meat will be found nearly as good (for a breakfast -dish,) as if not previously cooked. Whenever it is possible, make your -hashes without any water; and if you have saved no gravy, substitute -lard, or fresh butter. But gravy or drippings of the same meat is best. -A hash of cold meat, stewed merely in water, and with no seasoning but -salt and pepper, is a poor thing. Cold potatos, when re-cooked, always -remain hard and indigestible. In all cookery it is best to use _fresh -vegetables_, even if the _meat_ has been previously drest. Cold meat is -of no use for soups or pies. It is better to slice it, and eat it -cold--or, better still to give it the poor. Roast beef or mutton, if -very much underdone, may be sliced and broiled on a gridiron, and well -seasoned with pepper. Cold roast pork is best sliced plain, and eaten -cold. Ham also. - - -VEAL CUTLETS IN PAPERS (_en papillotes_.)--Make a nice sauce of sweet -herbs, bread-crumbs, powdered mace and nutmeg, butter and beaten egg. -Lay the cutlets in a deep dish, (having first broiled them and saved the -gravy,) pour the sauce over them, with the veal gravy added to it. Cover -them, and let them rest till cold. Allow, for each cutlet, a sheet of -foolscap paper, cut it into the shape of a heart, and go over it with -sweet oil, or fresh butter or lard. Lay a cutlet with a little of the -sauce upon it, on one-half of each sheet of paper; turn the other half -over the meat. Fold a narrow rim all round, so as to unite both edges. -Begin at the top of the heart, and pleat both edges together so as to -form a good shape without puckering. When you come to the bottom, where -the paper is to cover the bone, give it a few extra twists. Broil the -cutlets slowly on a gridiron for half an hour, seeing that no blaze -catches the papers--or put them in the oven for half an hour. If the -papers are not too much burnt or disfigured, dish the cutlets still -wrapped in them, to be removed by those who eat them. If the covers are -scorched black, and ragged, take out the cutlets and lay them on a hot -dish. Serve up with them a dish of mashed potatos or potatoe cake, -browned on the surface with a salamander. _Cotelettes a la Maintenon_, -are mutton or lamb steaks cooked in papers, in the above manner. - - -VEAL STEAKS.--Cut the steaks from the neck, leaving the bone very short, -and polishing what there is of it. Make a seasoning of boiled onions -minced, and sage or sweet marjoram leaves, or of chopped parsley. Lay on -each steak a bit of fresh butter, spread the seasoning thickly over -each, and fry them in the gravy or drippings of cold roast veal or beef. -They will be the better for beating them slightly with a rolling pin. -Put into the frying-pan three or four table-spoonfuls of mushroom or -tomato catchup; or, fry them with fresh mushrooms or fresh tomatos, -sliced. - - -VEAL CUTLETS.--Cut your veal cutlets from the fillet or round about half -an inch thick. Season them slightly with a little salt and cayenne. Have -ready a pan with grated bread-crumbs, and another with beaten egg. Have -ready, in a frying pan, plenty of boiling lard, or drippings of cold -veal. Dredge each cutlet slightly with flour; then dip it twice in the -pan of beaten egg, and then twice also in the bread-crumbs. Fry them -well, and send them to table in their own gravy. Saffron, scattered -thickly over them while frying, is an improvement much relished by the -eaters. - -Veal is too insipid to be fried or broiled plain. - -If you live where cream is plenty, add to this fry two or three -spoonfuls. - -Minced veal, cold, is an excellent ingredient for forcemeats. - - -KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND BACON.--Unless your family is very small, get two -knuckles of veal, and have them sawed into three pieces each. Put them -into a pot with two pounds of ham or bacon; cover them with water, and -stew them slowly, skimming them well. Season them with a little pepper, -but no salt, as the bacon will be salt enough. When the scum ceases to -rise, put in four onions and four turnips, and six potatos pared, and -quartered; also, a carrot and two parsnips, scraped and cut into pieces. -Let the whole boil till all the meat and all the vegetables are -thoroughly done, and very tender. Drain them well, and serve up the -whole on one large dish, having other vegetables served separately. - -If you wish to have green vegetables, such as greens, young sprouts, -poke, or string beans, flavored with bacon, put them to boil in a pot -with the bacon only, and take another pot for the veal, and white -vegetables, such as onions, turnips, &c. You may put the veal and bacon -on the same dish. - - -SOUTHERN STEW (_of veal_.)--Peel and boil a half dozen fresh spring -onions, and then drain them well and slice them thin. Have ready two -pounds or more of nice veal, sliced very thin, small, and evenly. Lay -the veal in a stew-pan, and season it slightly with salt, and _a very -little_ cayenne. Cover the veal with the sliced onions, and lay upon -them some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. If you cannot obtain -very excellent fresh butter, substitute lard, or cold gravy, or -dripping of roast veal, which last will be best if you have enough of -it. Finish with a flavoring of powdered nutmeg or mace, and the grated -yellow rind of a fresh lemon. - -This stew is very nice. It may be made with lamb or chicken, cut very -small. - - -VEAL KEBOBBED, (_or kibaubed_.)--Cut into small thin slices some lean -veal from the loin, chump end, or fillet. Trim them into a round or -circular form. Season them with pepper, salt, and turmeric or curry -powder. If onions are liked, slice some large ones, and lay them on the -pieces of veal. Cover them with slices of ham, cut round like the veal, -but a little smaller. Roll up the slices, (the ham inside,) and tie them -on skewers. Then roast or bake them. When done, take them off the -skewers, and send them to table in the gravy that has fallen from them. -This is a Turkish dish, and is much liked. - - -VEAL FRITTERS.--Take some thin slices of cold roast veal, and trim them -round or circular. Beat them with a rolling-pin, to make them very -tender, and season them with a little salt and pepper and some powdered -nutmeg. Also some grated fresh yellow rind of lemon-peel. Make a very -light batter, of eggs, milk, and flour; in the proportion of four -well-beaten eggs to a pint of milk; and a large half pint of sifted -flour: the eggs beaten first, and then stirred gradually into the milk -in turn with the flour. Have ready a frying-pan, nearly full of boiling -lard. Drop into it two large spoonfuls of the batter. Then put in a -slice of the veal, and cover it with two more large spoonfuls of the -batter. As the fritters are fried, take them up with a perforated -skimmer, and drain them. - - -VEAL PATTIES.--Mince very fine, some cold roast veal, or some cold -chicken, mixing with it some cold minced ham, or cold smoked tongue. Add -some yolk of hard-boiled eggs, crumbled or minced. Season the mixture -with powdered mace and nutmeg, moistened with cream or soft fresh -butter. Have ready some nice puff-paste, rolled out thin, and cut into -oval or circular pieces. Cover the half of each with the mixture, spread -on evenly and thickly. Then, upon that, fold over the other half, -(uniting both,) and crimp them together, in very small notches. Brush -their outsides all over with some raw egg, slightly beaten, and lay them -in large square tin pans to bake. Send them to table on china dishes. - -These patties are excellent made of cold game. The green tops of boiled -asparagus will improve the mixture. - - -FRIED LIVER.--Put into a frying-pan some nice thin slices of ham or -bacon, that have soaked all night, and fry them in their own fat. Have -ready your calf's liver, cut into slices not too thin, as that will -render them hard. Take out the ham as soon as it is done, put it into a -hot dish, and cover it closely. Lay the slices of liver into the gravy -of the bacon that is left in the frying-pan, sprinkling it well with -chopped parsley. It must be thoroughly done. Then dish with the bacon. - -To those who like them, some onions will be thought an improvement to -fried liver. First parboil the onions: then slice them, season them with -a little salt and pepper, and fry them with the liver. - -If lettuces are in season, quarter a fresh one, and lay it under the -liver when you dish it, having previously removed the thickest part of -the stalk. The liver of beef or sheep is not seen at good tables. It is -very inferior to that of calf's, being hard and coarse. - - -LARDED LIVER.--Wash and drain a nice fat calf's liver. Liver of beef or -mutton is never seen at a good table; they are hard, coarse, and -tasteless, and only eaten by the poor, while the livers of veal and -poultry are considered very nice. Divide it into equal portions. Lard -them thickly with small slips of fat bacon, inserted at regular -distances with a larding-needle, and very near each other. Season the -liver with powdered nutmeg and mace. Put into a stew-pan, in the bottom -of which you have laid a large slice or two of fat bacon. Let it stew -gently, till thoroughly done and tender throughout. When you take the -liver out of the stew-pan, stir into the gravy left at the bottom, some -thick catchup, either mushroom or tomato. Do not send the slices of -bacon to table with the liver. - -If liked, surround the liver while cooking, with small button onions, -(peeled and washed,) and see that they are well done. Serve them up on -the same dish. It is best always to boil onions before frying them. - - -STEWED LIVER.--Having soaked a fine calf's liver for two hours in cold -water, cut it into thick slices, and then cut the slices into mouthfuls. -Chop fine a small bunch of sweet marjoram, and sprinkle it among the -liver, seasoning with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and powdered mace. Put it -into a stew-pan, and cook it in lard or fresh butter. Make some nice -toast, and dip it for a minute in hot water, having pared off all the -crust. Lay the toast in the bottom of a deep dish, after covering it all -over with the stewed liver. - - -LIVER RISSOLES.--Take a calf's liver, and remove carefully all the -veins. Weigh a pound of it, boil it, and when cold, mince it very finely -with a quarter of a pound of suet, either of beef or veal. Add a quarter -of a pound of finely grated bread-crumbs. Season it with cayenne, -powdered mace, and nutmeg, and a very little salt. Mix in two -well-beaten eggs. Shape them into oval forms, about the size of large -walnuts, and fry them in plenty of boiling hot lard, draining them all -on a perforated skimmer, before they go to table. - - -LIVER PIE.--Prepare a fine fresh calf's liver. Split it in long pieces. -Lay it in a pan of cold water for an hour or two. Afterwards take it out -and wipe it dry, and boil it till tender. Drain it when done, and chop -it large with a slice of cold ham. Season it with pepper and nutmeg, (no -salt for any thing that has ham in it,) and add some minced sweet -marjoram and sweet basil, and two yolks of hard-boiled eggs, grated or -minced. The grated yellow rind of a fresh lemon will be an improvement. -Make a very nice light paste, and line a pie dish with it. Then fill it -high with the mixture, laying on the top several pieces of fine fresh -butter. Cover it with a lid of paste, notching the edges handsomely, and -cutting a cross-slit on the top. Bake it light brown, and serve it up, -either hot or cold. It will be found very nice. - -With the same mixture you may make liver dumplings, enclosing them in a -nice paste, and boiling them; or a liver pudding, boiling the mixture in -one large paste, and tying it in a cloth, leaving room for it to swell. - - -CHITTERLINGS OR CALF'S TRIPE.--This is very delicate and digestible, and -is nice at breakfast, or as a side dish at dinner. To prepare it for -cooking, it should be cut open with scissors, emptied, and thoroughly -cleaned, and then laid all night, or for several hours, in cold water, -_slightly_ salted. It can be bought of the veal butchers ready prepared, -and run on a wooden skewer. Wash it again just before cooking. Cut it -into small pieces, and boil it slowly till _quite_ tender, in water -enough to keep it well covered. When entirely done, take it up, drain -it, and keep it warm. Have ready some onions boiled in milk till quite -soft, and sliced thin. Melt some excellent fresh butter, in milk -thickened with flour. Make a round of very nice toast, with the crust -pared off. Dip it for a minute in hot water; lay it in the bottom of a -deep dish. Cover it thickly with the onion sauce, and place the -chitterlings upon it, seasoning them with pepper and vinegar. It will be -an improvement to boil with them four or five blades of mace. Eat -vinegar with it, always. Tarragon vinegar is best. This dish deserves to -be more in use. Try it. - - -FRIED CHITTERLINGS.--Get chitterlings ready prepared by the butcher. -Wash them, and let them lie an hour or two in weak salt and water. Then -drain them, cut them in pieces, and parboil them. Dry them in a clean -cloth. Make a batter of two or three beaten eggs, and a pint of milk, -with a heaped table-spoonful of flour. Put into a frying-pan an ample -portion of the dripping of roast veal or pork, and when it boils, -(having first dipped each piece of the chitterling into the batter,) fry -them in the dripping. They must be thoroughly done. You may fry them in -lard, or fresh butter. - -This is a nice breakfast dish. - - -BAKED CHITTERLINGS.--Having first parboiled the chitterlings, lay among -them some bits of fresh butter, season them with powdered nutmeg, put -them into a deep dish, set it into an oven, and bake them brown. - -This is a side dish at dinner. - - -FINE VEAL PIE.--Boil, in two quarts of water, two unskinned calf's feet, -adding the yellow rind of a large lemon, pared as thin as possible, or -grated, and its squeezed juice. Also, two broken-up sticks of cinnamon, -half a dozen blades of mace, and two glasses of sweet wine. Boil all -these together (skimming well,) till the calf's feet are in rags, and -all their flesh has dropped from the bone. Then put the whole into a -jelly-bag and let it drip into a broad bowl. Set it away closely -covered. Have ready two pounds of the parboiled chump end of a loin of -veal cut into square pieces. Make a nice puff paste, and line with it a -deep pie-dish. Put the pieces of veal into it, (all the fat cut off,) -and intersperse them with a dozen or more forcemeat balls, each about as -large as an English walnut. The balls may be made of cold minced chicken -and ham, minced suet, bread-crumbs, and hard-boiled yolk of egg grated -or crumbled fine; seasoned with sweet herbs, and grated lemon rind. Or -they may be sweet balls of bread-crumbs, butter, chopped sultana -raisins, and chopped citron, seasoned with nutmeg. Having dispersed them -among the pieces of veal, put in the jelly made from the calf's feet. -Cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste, cut a cross slit in the centre; -notch the edges, and bake it brown. This pie is for a company dish. - - -A PLAIN VEAL PIE.--Cut the meat from an uncooked breast of veal, and -stew it in a very little water. Have ready a pie dish lined with a nice -paste. Put in a layer of stewed veal, with its gravy, and cover it with -a layer of sausage meat; then veal again, and then sausage meat. Repeat -this till the dish is full, finishing with the sausage. Cover it with a -lid of paste, and bake it brown. This is a cheap and easy family pie. - - -VEAL LOAF.--Take a cold fillet of veal, and (omitting the fat and skin) -mince the meat as fine as possible. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of -the fattest part of a cold ham, also chopped small. Add a tea-cupful of -grated bread-crumbs; a grated nutmeg; half a dozen blades of mace, -powdered; the grated yellow rind of a lemon; and two beaten eggs. Season -with a salt-spoon of salt, and half a salt-spoon of cayenne. Mix the -whole well together, and make it into the form of a loaf. Then glaze it -over with beaten yolk of egg; and strew the surface evenly, all over, -with bread raspings, or with pounded cracker. Set the dish into a -dutch-oven, and bake it half an hour, or till hot all through. Have -ready a gravy made of the trimmings of the veal, stewed in some of the -gravy that was left when the fillet was roasted the day before. When -sufficiently cooked, take out the meat, and thicken the gravy with -beaten yolk of egg, stirred in about three minutes before you take it -from the fire. - -Send the veal loaf to table, in a deep dish, with the gravy poured round -it. - -Chicken loaf, or turkey loaf, may be made in this manner. - - -STEWED CALF'S HEAD.--Take a fine, large calf's head; empty it; wash it -clean, and boil it till it is quite tender, in just water enough to -cover it. Then carefully take out the bones, without spoiling the -appearance of the head. Season it with a little salt and cayenne, and a -grated nutmeg. Pour over it the liquor in which it has been boiled, -adding a jill of vinegar, and two table-spoonfuls of capers, or of green -nasturtion seeds, that have been pickled. Let it stew very slowly for -half an hour. Have ready some forcemeat balls made of minced veal-suet, -grated bread-crumbs, grated lemon-peel, and sweet marjoram,--adding -beaten yolk of egg to bind the other ingredients together. Put in the -forcemeat balls, and stew it slowly a quarter of an hour longer, adding -some bits of butter rolled in flour to enrich the gravy. Send it to -table hot. - - -EXCELLENT MINCED VEAL.--Take three or four pounds of the lean only of a -fillet or loin of veal, and mince it very finely, adding a slice or two -of cold ham, minced also. Add two or three small young onions, chopped -small, a tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram leaves rubbed from the stalks, -the yellow rind of a small lemon grated, and a tea-spoonful of mixed -mace and nutmeg powdered. Mix all well together, and dredge it with a -little flour. Put it into a stew-pan, with sufficient gravy of cold -roast veal to moisten it, and a large table-spoonful or more of fresh -butter. Stir it well, and let it stew till thoroughly done. If the veal -has been previously cooked, a quarter of an hour will be sufficient. It -will be much improved by adding a pint or more of small button -mushrooms, cut from the stems, and then chopped small. Also, by stirring -in two table-spoonfuls of cream about five minutes before it is taken -from the fire. - - -VEAL WITH OYSTERS.--Take two fine cutlets of about a pound each. Divide -them into several pieces, cut thin. Put them into a frying-pan, with -boiling lard, and let them fry awhile. When the veal is almost done, add -to it a pint of large, fine oysters,--their liquor thickened with a few -grated bread-crumbs, and seasoned with mace and nutmeg powdered. -Continue the frying till the veal and oysters are thoroughly done. Send -it to table in a covered dish. - - -TERRAPIN VEAL.--Take some cold roast veal, (the fillet or the loin) and -cut it into mouthfuls. Put it in a skillet or stew-pan. Have ready a -dressing made of six or seven hard-boiled eggs, minced fine; a small -tea-spoonful of tarragon mustard; a salt-spoonful of salt; and the same -of cayenne pepper; a large tea-cupful (half a pint) of cream, and two -glasses of sherry or Madeira wine. The dressing must be thoroughly -mixed. Pour it over the veal, and then give the whole a hard stir. Cover -it, and let it stew over the fire for ten minutes. Then transfer it to a -deep dish, and send it to table hot. - -Cold roast duck or fowl may be drest as above. Also, venison. - - -VEAL OLIVES.--Take some cold fillet of veal and cold ham, and cut them -into thin square slices of the same size and shape, trimming the edges -evenly. Lay a slice of veal on every slice of ham, and spread some -beaten yolk of egg over the veal. Have ready a thin forcemeat, made of -grated bread-crumbs, sweet marjoram rubbed fine, fresh butter, and -grated lemon-peel, seasoned with nutmeg and a little cayenne pepper. -Spread this over the veal, and then roll up each slice tightly with the -ham. Tie them round securely with coarse thread or fine twine; run a -bird-spit through them, and roast them well. For sauce, simmer in a -small sauce-pan, some cold veal gravy with two spoonfuls of cream, and -some mushroom catchup. - - -VEAL RISSOLES.--Take as much fine wheat bread as will weigh one pound, -after all the crust is cut off. Slice it; put it into a pan and pour -over it as much rich milk as will soak it thoroughly. After it has -soaked a quarter of an hour, lay it in a sieve and press it dry. Mince -as finely as possible a pound of veal cutlet with six ounces of veal -suet; then mix in gradually the bread; adding a salt-spoonful of salt, a -slight sprinkling of cayenne, and a small tea-spoonful of powdered mace -and nutmeg mixed; also the yellow rind of a lemon grated. Beat two eggs, -and moisten the mixture with them. Then divide it into equal portions, -and with a little flour on your hands roll it into oval balls rather -smaller than an egg. Strew over them some dry bread-crumbs; then fry -them in lard or fresh butter--drain them well, and send them to table -hot. For gravy (which should be commenced before the rissoles) put some -bits and trimmings of veal into a small sauce-pan, with as much water as -will cover them; a very little pepper and salt; and three or four blades -of mace. Cover the sauce-pan closely, and let the meat stew till all the -strength is extracted; skimming it well. Then strain it; return the -liquor to the sauce-pan; add a bit of butter rolled in flour; and -squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Give it a boil up, and then, at the -last, stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. Serve up this gravy in a -sauce-boat, to eat with the rissoles. - -Instead of stewing meat for the purpose, you may make this gravy with -the drippings of roast veal saved from the day before. You have then -only to melt it over the fire; adding the seasoning; and giving it one -boil. - -Similar rissoles may be made of minced chicken or turkey. - - -TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS.--The sweetbread belonging to the breast of the -calf is far superior to that which is found about the throat, being -larger, whiter, more tender, and more delicate. Always buy them in -preference. They should be set immediately on ice, and prepared for -cooking as speedily as possible, for they spoil very soon. Soak them in -warm water till all the blood is discharged. Then put them into boiling -water, and boil them five minutes. After this, lay them immediately in a -pan of very cold water. This sudden transition from hot water to cold, -will blanch or whiten them. Dark-colored sweetbreads make a very bad -appearance. Four are generally sufficient for a small dish. But as, if -well cooked, they are much liked, it is best to have six; or else eight -upon two dishes. If the sweetbreads are to be cut up before cooking, -remove and throw away the gristle or pipe that pervades every one. If -they are to be cooked whole, you may leave the pipe in, to be taken out -by the eaters. - -For company, it is usual to lard sweetbreads with slips of fat ham or -bacon, or of cold smoked tongue. - -Sweetbreads are used as side-dishes at dinners, or at nice breakfasts. - - -SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.--Having trimmed some sweetbreads nicely, and -removed the gristle, parboil them, and then mince them very fine. Add -grated bread, and season with a very little salt and pepper; some -powdered mace and nutmeg; and some grated lemon-rind. Moisten the whole -with cream, and make them up into small cones or sugar-loaves; forming -and smoothing them nicely. Have ready some beaten egg, mixed with grated -bread-crumbs. Dip into it each croquette, and fry them slowly in fresh -butter. Serve them hot; standing up on the dish, and with a sprig of -parsley in the top of each. - -Sweetbreads should never be used unless perfectly fresh. They spoil very -rapidly. As soon as they are brought from market they should be split -open, and laid in cold water. Never attempt to keep sweetbreads till -next day, except in cold weather; and then on ice. - -Similar croquettes may be made of cold boiled chicken; or cold roast -veal; or of oysters, minced raw, and seasoned and mixed as above. - - -FRICASSEED SWEETBREADS.--Take half a dozen sweetbreads; clean them -thoroughly, and lay them for an hour or two in a pan of water, having -first removed the strings and gristle. Then put them into a stew-pan -with as much rich milk or cream as will cover them well, and a very -little salt. Stew them slowly, till tender throughout, and thoroughly -done, saving the liquid. Then take them up; cover them; and set them -near the fire to keep warm. Prepare a quarter of a pound of butter, -divided into four pieces, and rolled in flour. Put the butter into the -milk in which the sweetbreads were boiled, and add a few sprigs of -parsley cut small; five or six blades of mace; half a nutmeg grated; and -a very little cayenne pepper. Have ready the yolks of three eggs -well-beaten. Return the sweetbreads to the gravy; let it just come to a -boil; and then stir in the beaten egg _immediately before_ you take the -fricassee from the fire, otherwise it will curdle. Serve it up in a deep -dish with a cover. - -Chickens, cut up, may be fricasseed in this manner. - - -TOMATO SWEETBREADS.--Cut up a quarter of a peck (or more) of fine ripe -tomatos; set them over the fire, and let them stew with nothing but -their own juice, till they go entirely to pieces. Then press them -through a sieve, to clear the liquid from the seeds and skins. Have -ready four or five sweetbreads that have been trimmed nicely, cleared -from the gristle, and laid open to soak in warm water. Put them into a -stew-pan with the tomato-juice, seasoned with a little salt and cayenne. -Add two or three table-spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour. Set the -sauce-pan over the fire, and stew the sweetbreads in the tomato-juice -till they are thoroughly done. A few minutes before you take them off, -stir in two beaten yolks of eggs Serve up the sweetbreads in a deep -dish, with the tomato poured over them. - - -SWEETBREADS AND CAULIFLOWERS.--Take four large sweetbreads, and two fine -cauliflowers. Split open the sweetbreads and remove the gristle. Soak -them awhile in lukewarm water. Then put them into a sauce-pan of boiling -water, and let them boil ten minutes over the fire. Afterwards, lay them -in a pan of very cold water. The parboiling will render them white; and -putting them directly from the hot water into the cold will give them -firmness. Having washed and drained the cauliflowers, quarter them, and -lay them in a broad stew-pan with the sweetbreads upon them, seasoned -with a very little cayenne, four or five blades of mace, and some -nutmeg. Add as much water as will cover them; put on closely the lid of -the pan, and let the whole stew for about an hour. Then take a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter, and roll it in two table-spoonfuls of flour. -Add it to the stew with a tea-cupful of rich milk or cream, and give it -one boil up, not more, or the milk may curdle. Serve it hot in a deep -dish; the sweetbreads in the middle with the gravy poured over them, and -the quartered cauliflowers laid handsomely round. This stew will be -found delicious. - -Broccoli may be thus stewed with sweetbreads. - - -SWEETBREAD OMELET.--For an omelet of six or seven eggs, take two fine -sweetbreads. Split them, take out the gristle, and soak them in two -lukewarm waters, to extract all the blood. Then put them into very hot -water, boil them ten minutes, take them out, set them away to cool, and -afterwards mince them small, and season them with _a very little salt_ -and cayenne pepper, and some grated nutmeg. Beat the eggs (omitting the -whites of two) till very light. Then mix in the chopped sweetbreads. Put -three ounces or more of fresh butter into a small frying-pan, and place -it over the fire. Stir the butter with a spoon, as it melts, and when it -comes to a boil put in the mixture, stirring it awhile after it is all -in. Fry it a rich brown. Heat the plate or dish in which you turn it out -of the pan. An omelet should never be turned while frying. The top may -be well browned by holding above it a salamander or red-hot shovel. - -If you wish it very thick, have _three_ sweetbreads. - -While frying the omelet, lift the edge occasionally by slipping a -knife-blade under it, that the butter may get well underneath. - -If omelets are cooked too much they will become tough, and leather-like. -Many persons prefer having them sent to table as _soft omelets_, before -they have set, or taken the form of a cake. In this case, serve up the -omelet in a deep dish, and help it with a spoon. - - -SWEETBREADS AND OYSTERS.--Take four sweetbreads, and when they have been -soaked and blanched, quarter them, and remove the pipe. Strain the -liquor from three dozen large fresh oysters, season it with powdered -nutmeg and mace, and a little cayenne. Put the quartered sweetbreads -into a stew-pan, and pour over them enough of the oyster-liquor to cover -them well, adding, if you have it, three large spoonfuls of the gravy of -roast veal, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut into four -bits; each bit rolled or dredged in flour. When the sweetbreads are -done, put in the oysters, (first removing their gristle or hard part,) -and take them out again as soon as they are plumped, which should be in -five minutes. If allowed to boil, the oysters will shrivel, and become -hard and tasteless. Add, at the last, two wine-glasses of cream, and -shake the pan about, for a few minutes. Serve up in a deep dish. - - -SWEETBREAD PIES.--Make shells of puff-paste, and bake them empty. When -done, fill them to the top with the above mixture. Have ready a lid for -each pie, baked on a flat plate, and lay it on the top of the filling. - - -STEWED SWEETBREADS.--After blanching them, extract the pipe very -carefully, and fill its place with a stuffing made of cold minced -chicken or veal, minced ham or tongue sweet marjoram, nutmeg, grated -lemon-peel, and the crumbled yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Fasten the -openings with small wooden skewers, and put the sweetbreads into a broad -stew-pan with a thin slice of ham under each, and another on the top of -each, kept in place by a splinter-skewer. Stew the sweetbreads in the -gravy of roast veal, and before you send them to table take out the -skewers. - -Or make a gravy of uncooked trimmings of veal or beef, stewed slowly in -as much water as will cover them well, and seasoned with pepper and -salt--or, stew with the fresh meat, as much ham or bacon as will flavor -the gravy, (using no other salt.) When all the essence is extracted from -the meat, stir in a bit of butter dredged with flour. The flour for -gravies should be browned. Strain the gravy, and add any other flavoring -you like. - -To brown flour, spread it evenly on a large dish or flat tin, and place -it before the fire, or in a rather cool oven. Scrape it up from the -edges where it will get the brownest. Take care it burns or blackens -nowhere. Keep it for use in a dry tin box. - - -BAKED SWEETBREADS.--Parboil four large sweetbreads, having first -blanched them. When cold, lard them all over the surface, with slips of -bacon the size of small straws. Lay them in a shallow pan, putting under -each sweetbread a piece of nice fresh butter with a very little flour -mixed into it. Pour into the pan a glass of nice white wine, mixed with -the juice and grated yellow rind of a lemon. Season also with grated -nutmeg. Or for sauce, you may use mushroom catchup, with a little salad -oil stirred into it. - -If you do not live in a place where nice fresh butter is to be obtained, -endeavor to do without butter at all, rather than use that which is -strong, rancid, or too salt. Bad butter tastes through every -thing--spoils every thing, and is also extremely unwholesome, as -decomposition (or in plain terms _putrefaction_,) has already commenced. -Rather than use what makes all your food taste worse instead of better, -try to substitute something else--such as beef or fresh pork drippings, -suet, lard, or olive oil; or, molasses, honey, or stewed fruit. _We -know_ that with these it is possible to live in health for years, -without tasting butter. Nevertheless, good butter is a good thing, and -an improvement to all sorts of cookery. - - - - -PORK. - - -PORK.--Young pork has a thin rind or skin, easily indented by pressing -with the finger, and the lean will break by pinching. If fresh, the meat -is smooth and dry; but if damp and clammy, it is tainted. If the fat is -rough with little kernels, the pig has had a disease resembling the -measles, and to eat it is poisonous. Pigs that have short legs, and -thick necks, are the best. Pigs fed entirely on slop make very bad pork. -They should be kept up for at least two months, fed with corn, and not -allowed during the time of fattening to eat any sort of trash. No animal -tastes more of its food than a pig. If allowed to eat the garbage of -fish, they will not only have a fishy taste, but a smell of fish so -intolerable, when cooking, that such pork cannot be endured in the -house. During the two months that they are kept up to fatten, all their -food must be wholesome as well as abundant, and it does them much good -to have soap-suds given to them occasionally. Let them have plenty of -corn, and plenty of fresh water. They will thrive better and make finer -pork, if their pens are not allowed to be dirty. No animal actually -likes dirt, and even pigs would be clean if they knew how. It is very -beneficial to young pigs to wash them well in soap and water. We have -seen this often done with great care. - -The pork in Spain and Portugal is delicious, from being fed chiefly on -the large chestnuts, of which there is great abundance in those -countries. These pigs are short-legged and thick-bodied--a profitable -species. The best pieces of a pig are the hind-leg and loin; the next is -the shoulder, or fore-leg. The spare-rib, (pronounced sparrib by the -English,) affords so little meat, and the bones are so tedious to pick, -that it is seldom seen on good American tables, nothing being popular -with us that cannot be eaten fast or fastish. - -Pork must be thoroughly cooked; done well, and completely to the very -bone. Who ever asked for a slice of pork _done rare_? Who could eat pork -with the blood appearing, when served? So it is with veal. Underdone -veal, or underdone chicken, is not to be thought of without disgust. - -Pork, for boiling, is always previously salted or corned. Fresh pork, -however, is very good _stewed_ or cooked slowly in a very little water, -and with plenty of vegetables in the same pot. The vegetables should be -potatos, (either sweet or white,) pared and cut into pieces--parsnips -the same, or yams in thick slices. For corned pork cook the vegetables -separately from the meat, or they will taste too salt and fat. They -should be cabbage, or green sprouts, green beans or peas, green corn, -young poke, squash, pumpkin, or cashaw, (winter squash,) boiled, mashed, -and squeezed. - -For salt pork, in winter, have dried beans or dried peas; first boiled, -and then baked. - - -TO ROAST PORK.--The roasting pieces are the loin, the leg, the saddle, -the fillet, the shoulder and the spare-rib, (which last is found between -the shoulder or fore-leg,) and the griskin or back-bone. All roast pork -should be well seasoned; rubbed with pepper, salt, or powdered sage or -marjoram. Score the skin with a sharp knife, making deep lines at -regular distances, about an inch apart. Cross these lines with others, -so as to form squares or diamonds. Make a stuffing of minced sage or -marjoram leaves; bread-crumbs; if liked, a very little minced onion -previously boiled; and some powdered mace. Introduce this stuffing -profusely wherever it can be inserted, loosening a piece of the skin, -and fastening it down again with a small skewer. In a leg or shoulder -you can put in a great deal at the knuckle. In a fillet or large end of -the leg, stuff the place from whence you have taken the bone. Put the -pork down to roast not very close to the fire, but place it nearer when -the skin begins to brown. You can soon baste it with its own gravy; and -see that it is thoroughly cooked, before removing it from the spit. -After taking up the meat, skim the fat from the gravy, and stir in a -little flour to thicken it. - -The crackling or skin will be much more crisp and tender if you go all -over it with sweet oil, or lard, before you put it to the fire. - -Always accompany roast pork with apple sauce, served in a deep dish or a -sauce-tureen. - -Cold roast pork is very good sliced at tea or breakfast. - - -SWEET POTATO PORK.--Boil, peel, and mash a sufficiency of sweet potatos, -moistened with butter and egg. Cover with them the bottom of a deep -dish; then put on a layer of slices of fresh pork, sprinkled with minced -sage or marjoram. Next, another thick layer of mashed sweet potatos; -then another layer of pork cutlets, and so on till the dish is full, -finishing with mashed sweet potatos. Bake it brown on the surface. - - -CHESTNUT PORK.--Where the large Spanish chestnuts abound, a similar dish -may be made of layers of chestnuts boiled, peeled, and mashed, and -layers of fresh pork in thin slices. - - -ROASTED SPARE-RIB.--This will do for a second dish at the table of a -very small family. Rub it all over with powdered sage, pepper, and salt, -and having put it on the spit, lay the thickest end to the fire. Dredge -it with powdered sage and baste it with a little butter. When dished, -have ready some mashed potatos made into flat cakes, and browned on the -top, and laid all round the pork, with some in another dish. Send to -table apple sauce also. - -When apples are difficult to procure, substitute dried peaches, stewed -very soft, and in no more water than remains about them after being -washed. Sweeten them while hot, as soon as you take them from the fire, -mashing them smoothly. - - -TO DRESS A YOUNG PIG.--The pig should not be more than three weeks old. -If not fat, it is unfit to eat. To be in perfection, a sucking pig -should be eaten the day it is killed, or its goodness and tenderness is -impaired every hour. It requires great care in roasting, and constant -watching. The custom of _roasting_ a very young pig has now gone much, -into disuse, it being found that baking answers the purpose equally -well or better, and is far less troublesome. - -The pig should be washed perfectly clean, inside and out, and wiped very -dry. Have ready a stuffing made of slices of bread, thickly buttered and -soaked in milk, seasoned with powdered nutmeg and mace, and the grated -yellow rind of a lemon, with the _hard-boiled_ yolk of an egg, crumbled, -and a large handful, or more, of fine bloom raisins, seeded and cut in -half, mix all these ingredients well, and fill with them the body of the -pig, sewing it up afterwards. Or you may make a plain stuffing of -chopped sage and onions, boiled together, with marjoram; and mixed with -bread-crumbs and butter. Having trussed the pig, with the fore-legs bent -back, and the hind-legs forward, rub it _all over_ with sweet oil, or -with fresh butter tied in a rag. Lay it in a baking-pan, with a little -water in the bottom. Then set it in an oven, not too hot, and bake it -well, basting it frequently with butter. When done, dish it whole. Skim -the gravy in the pan, and mix in some flour. Give it one boil up, having -first put into it the chopped liver and heart of the pig, taken out -after it was cooked, and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. - -The practice is now obsolete of dissecting a pig before it goes to -table, splitting it down the back, and down the front, and laying the -two halves in reverse positions, or back to back, with one half the -split head at each side, and one ear at each end, the brains being taken -out to enrich the gravy. All these disgusting things have been discarded -by the better taste of modern epicures. And the pig is baked and comes -to table whole. We have always thought it a most unfeminine fancy for a -lady to enjoy eating the head of any thing, and the brain particularly. - - -PORK STEAKS, STEWED.--Take some nice fresh pork steaks, cut either from -the leg or the loin. Trim off the superfluous fat. Season them with a -little salt and pepper, and plenty of minced sage. Put in with them, -minced onions, sliced sweet potatos, parsnips, and white potatos cut -into pieces, also some lima beans. Pour in barely sufficient water to -cover them; or else stew the pork in a very little lard. Apples cored, -pared, and baked whole; the core-place filled with sugar, moistened with -a very little water, to put in the bottom of the baking-dish, are a very -nice accompaniment to pork steaks. - - -PORK AND APPLES.--Take nice steaks, or cutlets, of fresh pork. Season -them with a little pepper, and a very little salt. Pare, core, and -quarter some fine juicy apples. Flavor them with the grated yellow rind -and the juice of one or two lemons, and strew among them plenty of -sugar. Stew them with merely sufficient water to prevent their burning; -or else a little lard without water. When thoroughly done, serve all up -in the same dish. If you cannot procure lemons, flavor the apple with -rose-water, or nutmeg, _after_ it is cooked. Rose-water evaporates much -in cooking. - - -PORK STEAKS, FRIED.--Cut them thin, but do not trim off the fat. -Sprinkle them well all over with finely minced sage or sweet marjoram. -Lay them in a frying-pan, and fry them well on both sides, keeping them -very hot after they are done. Wash out the frying-pan, (or have another -one ready, which is better,) and put it over the fire with plenty of -lard, or fresh butter. Have ready plenty of slices of large juicy -apples, pared, cored, and cut into round pieces. Fry them well, and when -done, take them up on a perforated skimmer, to drain the lard from them. -Sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and pile them on a dish to eat with -the pork. - -Otherwise, send to table with the pork, a dish of apple sauce made in -the usual manner, or a dish of dried peaches, stewed, mashed, and -sweetened. - - -PORK APPLE POT-PIE.--Make a plentiful quantity of nice paste. With some -of it line the sides (but not the bottom) of a large pot. At the very -bottom lay a slice of _fresh_ pork, with most of the fat trimmed off. -Season it with a very little salt and pepper, and add some pieces of -paste. Next put in a thick layer of juicy apples, cut in slices, strewed -with brown sugar. Add another layer of pork, and another of sliced -apples. Proceed thus till the pot is nearly full, finishing with a lid -of paste, not fitting quite closely. Cut a cross-slit in the top, -through which pour in some sweet cider to moisten it, and set it to -cooking. Keep the pot covered; set it at once over a good fire, but not -so hot as to burn the pie. See that it is well done before you take it -up. It is a convenient dish in the country at the season of apple -picking, cider making, and pork killing. - -Stewed or baked apples are always greatly improved by a flavoring of -lemon, rose-water, or nutmeg. - - -APPLE PORK PIE.--Core, peel, and quarter some fine juicy baking-apples. -Make a nice paste with fresh butter and sifted flour, and line with it -the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Put in the apples, and strew among -them sufficient brown sugar to make them very sweet. If you can obtain a -fresh lemon, pare off very thin the yellow rind, and squeeze the juice -to flavor the apples. Prepare some fresh pork steaks, cut thin, and -divested of all the fat except a little at the edge; removing the bone. -Cover the apples with a layer of meat, and pour in a tea-cup of _sweet_ -cider. The contents of the pie should be heaped up in the centre. Have -ready a nice lid of paste, and cover the pie with it, closing and -crimping the edge. In the centre of the lid cut a cross-slit. Put it -into a hot oven and bake it well. This is a farm-house dish, and very -good. Try it. - -Apples have always been considered a suitable accompaniment to fresh -pork. - - -FILLET OF PORK.--Cut a fillet or round, handsomely and evenly, from a -fine leg of fresh pork. Remove the bone. Make a stuffing or forcemeat of -grated bread-crumbs; butter; a tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram, or -tarragon leaves; and sage leaves enough to make a small table-spoonful, -when minced or rubbed fine; all well mixed, and slightly seasoned with -pepper and salt. Then stuff it closely into the hole from whence the -bone was taken. Score the skin of the pork in circles to go all round -the fillet. These circles should be very close together, or about half -an inch apart. Rub into them, slightly, a little powdered sage. Put it -on the spit, and roast it well, till it is thoroughly done throughout; -as pork, if the least underdone, is not fit to eat. Place it, for the -first hour, not very close to the fire, that the meat may get well -heated all through, before the skin begins to harden so as to prevent -the heat from penetrating sufficiently. Then set it as near the fire as -it can be placed without danger of scorching. Keep it roasting steadily -with a bright, good, regular fire, for two or three hours, or longer -still if it is a large fillet. It may require near four hours. Baste it -at the beginning with sweet oil (which will make the skin very crisp) or -with lard. Afterwards, baste it with its own gravy. When done, skim the -fat from the gravy, and then dredge in a little flour to thicken it. -Send the pork to table with the gravy in a boat; and a deep dish of -apple sauce, made very thick, flavored with lemon, and sweetened well. - -A fillet of pork is excellent stewed slowly in a very little water, -having in the same stew-pot some sweet potatos, peeled, split, and cut -into long pieces. If stewed, put _no sage_ in the stuffing; and remove -the skin of the pork. This is an excellent family dish in the autumn. - - -ITALIAN PORK.--Take a nice leg of fresh pork; rub it well with fine salt -and let it lie in the salt for a week or ten days. When you wish to cook -it, put the pork into a large pot, with just sufficient water to cover -it; and let it simmer, slowly, during four hours; skimming it well. Then -take it out, and lay it on a large dish. Pour the water from the pot -into an earthen pan; skim it, and let it cool while you are skinning the -pork. Then put into a pot, a pint of good cider vinegar, mixed with half -a pound of brown sugar, and a pint of the water in which the pork has -been boiled, and from which all the fat has been carefully skimmed off. -Put in the pork with the upper side towards the bottom of the pot. Set -it again over the fire, (which must first be increased,) and heat the -inside of the pot-lid by standing it upright against the front of the -fire. Then cover the pot closely, and let the pork stew for an hour and -a half longer; basting it frequently with the liquid around it, and -keeping the pot-lid as hot as possible that the meat may be well -browned. When done, the pork will have somewhat the appearance of being -coated with molasses. Serve up the gravy with it. What is left of the -meat may be sliced cold for breakfast or luncheon. - -You may stew with it, when the pork is put into the pot a second time, -some large chestnuts, previously boiled and peeled. Or, instead of -chestnuts, sweet potatos, scraped, split, and cut into small pieces. - - -PORK OLIVES.--Cut slices from a fillet or leg of cold fresh pork. Make a -forcemeat in the usual manner, only substituting for sweet herbs some -sage-leaves, chopped fine. When the slices are covered with the -forcemeat, and rolled up and tied round, stew them slowly either in cold -gravy left of the pork, or in fresh lard. Drain them well before they go -to table. Serve them up on a bed of mashed turnips, or potatos, or of -mashed sweet potatos, if in season. - - -PIGS' FEET, FRIED.--Pigs' feet are frequently used for jelly, instead of -calves' feet. They are very good for this purpose, but a larger number -is required (from eight to ten or twelve) to make the jelly sufficiently -firm. After they have been boiled for jelly, extract the bones, and put -the meat into a deep dish: cover it with some good cider vinegar, -seasoned with sugar and a little salt and cayenne. Then cover the dish, -and set it away for the night. Next morning, take out the meat, and -having drained it well from the vinegar, put it into a frying-pan, in -which some lard has just come to a boil, and fry it for a breakfast -dish. - - -PORK AND BEANS.--Take a good piece of pickled pork, (not very fat,) and -to each pound of pork allow a quart of dried white beans. The bone -should be removed from the pork, and the beans well picked and washed. -The evening before they are wanted for cooking, put the beans and pork -to soak in _separate pans_; and just before bed-time, drain off the -water, and replace it with fresh. Let them soak all night. Early in the -morning, drain them well from the water, and wash first the beans, and -then the pork in a cullender. Having scored the skin in stripes, or -diamonds, put the pork into a pot with fresh cold water, and the beans -into another pot with sufficient cold water to cook them well. Season -the pork with a little pepper, but, of course, no salt. Boil them -separately and slowly till the pork is thoroughly done (skimming it -well) and till the beans have all burst open. Afterwards take them out, -and drain them well from the water. Then lay the pork in the middle of a -tin pan, (there must be no liquid fat about it) and the beans round it, -and over it, so as nearly to bury it from sight. Pour in a very little -water, and set the dish into a hot oven, to bake or brown for half an -hour. If kept too long in the oven the beans will become dry and hard. -If sufficiently boiled when separate, half an hour will be long enough -for the pork and beans to bake together. Carefully skim off any liquid -fat that may rise to the surface. Cover the dish, and send it to table -hot. - -For a small dish, two quarts of beans and two pounds of pork will be -enough. To this quantity, when put to bake in the oven, you may allow a -pint of water. - -This is a good plain dish, very popular in New England, and generally -liked in other parts of the country, if properly done. - - -PORK WITH CORN AND BEANS.--Boil a nice small leg of corned pork, skim it -well, and boil it thoroughly. Then have ready a quart, or more, of fresh -string-beans, each bean cut into only three pieces. Boil the beans for -an hour in a separate pot. In another pot boil four ears of young sweet -corn, and when soft and tender, cut it down from the cob, with a sharp -knife, and mix it with the boiled beans, having drained them, through a -cullender, from all the water that is about them. Having mixed them well -together, in a deep dish, season them with pepper, (no salt,) and add a -large lump of fresh butter. - -For green beans you may substitute dried white ones, boiled by -themselves, well drained, and seasoned with pepper and butter, and mixed -in the same dish before they are sent to table. Or the mixed corn and -beans may be heaped round the pork upon the same dish. - -To eat with them make some indian dumplings of corn meal and water, -mixed into a stiff dough, formed into thick dumplings, about as large -round as the top of a tea-cup, and boiled in a pot by themselves. - - -PORK WITH PEAS PUDDING.--Boil a nice piece of pickled or corned pork, -(the leg is the best,) and let it be well skinned, and thoroughly -cooked. To make the pudding, pick over and wash through cold water, a -quart of yellow split peas, and tie them in a square cloth, leaving -barely sufficient room for them to swell; but if too much space is -allowed for swelling, they will be weak and washy. When the peas are all -dissolved into a mass, turn them out of the cloth, and rub them through -a coarse sieve into a pan. Then add a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, mixed well into the peas, and a very little pepper. Beat light, -three yolks and one whole egg, and stir them into the peas a little at a -time. Then beat the whole very hard. Dip your pudding-cloth into hot -water; spread it out in a pan, and pour the mixture into it. Tie up the -cloth, and put the pudding into a pot of boiling water. Let it boil -steadily for at least an hour. When done, send it to table, and eat it -with the pork. - -Next day, if there is much left, boil both the pork and the pudding over -again, (the remains of the pudding tied in the cloth.) Let them boil -till thoroughly warmed throughout. Cut them in slices. Place them on the -same dish, the pork in the middle, with slices of pudding laid round, -and send them to the breakfast table, for strong healthy eaters. - - -SAUSAGE-MEAT.--To fifteen pounds of the lean of fresh pork, allow five -pounds of the fat. Having removed the skin, sinews, and gristle, chop -both the fat and lean as fine as possible, and mix them well together. -Rub to a powder sufficient sage-leaves to make four ounces when done. -Mix the sage with two ounces of fine salt, two ounces of brown sugar, an -ounce of powdered black pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne. -Add this seasoning to the chopped pork, and mix it thoroughly. Pack the -sausage-meat down, hard and closely, into stone jars, which must be kept -in a cool place, and well covered. When wanted for use, make some of it -into small flat cakes, dredge them with flour, and fry them well. The -fat that exudes from the sausage-cakes, while frying, will be sufficient -to cook them in. - - -SAUSAGE DUMPLING.--Make a good paste in the proportion of three mashed -potatos, and a quarter of a pound of finely minced suet to a quart of -flour. Roll it out into a thick sheet. Fill it with the best home-made -sausage meat. Lay the sausage meat in an even heap on the sheet of -dough, and close it up so as to form a large round dumpling. Dip a -square cloth in boiling water, shake it out, dredge it with flour, and -tie the dumpling in it, leaving room for it to swell. Put it into a pot -of boiling water, and keep it boiling hard till thoroughly done. Do not -turn it till immediately before it goes to table. It requires no sauce -but a little cold butter. It may be made into several small dumplings. - - -VEAL AND SAUSAGE PIE.--Line a deep oval dish with a very nice paste. Lay -at the bottom a thin veal cutlet, seasoned with powdered mace. Place -upon it some of the best sausage meat, spread thin; then another veal -cutlet, and then more sausage. Repeat this till the dish is full, -finishing with sausage meat on the top. Then cover the pie with a rather -thick lid or upper crust, uniting the two edges at the rim, by crimping -or notching them neatly. Make a cross slit in the centre of the lid. -Bake the pie well, and serve it up hot. - -Put no water into this pie, as the veal and the sausage will give out -sufficient gravy. We recommend this pie. - -If you live where veal cannot always be procured, substitute chicken or -turkey, boiled and cut up, and covered with layers of sausage; or else -thin slices of venison; or else, the best part of a pair of boiled or -roasted rabbits. - - -BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.--Take three pounds of the lean of a round of corned or -salted beef, and three pounds of the lean of corned or salted pork. -Boil them for an hour in separate pots. Take them up, let them grow -cold, and chop them separately. Chop also, very fine, two pounds of the -fat of bacon, and one pound of beef suet. When these things are all -separately minced, mix them well together, seasoning them well with -chopped sage, sweet marjoram, black pepper, and powdered mace. Also, if -liked, two or three boiled onions minced very small. Have ready some of -the large skins commonly used for these sausages. The skins must have -been carefully emptied, washed, and scraped till quite transparent. Fill -them with the above mixture, stuffing it in hard and evenly with a -sausage-stuffer, sewing and tying both ends securely. Put the sausages -into a brine or pickle, such as is made for ham, of salt, brown sugar, -and molasses mixed with water, and strong enough to bear up an egg. Let -the sausages remain a week in this pickle, turning them every day, and -keeping it closely covered. Then take them out and hang them up to dry, -tied in strings or links. Smoke them for a week over a fire of oak -sticks or corn-cobs. Afterwards, rub them over with salad oil, which is -much the better for being mixed with ashes of vine twigs. - -Sausages made faithfully as above, will be found equal to the real -Bologna, by the lovers of this sort of relish. When it is eaten they are -sliced very thin. Few ladies eat them. - - -HOG'S HEAD CHEESE.--Hog's head cheese is always made at what is called -"killing time." To make four cheeses of moderate size, take two large -hog's heads; two sets, (that is eight feet,) and the noses of all the -pigs that have been killed that day. Clean all these things well, and -then boil them to rags. Having drained off the liquid through a -cullender, spread out the things in large dishes, and carefully remove -all the bones, even to the smallest bits. With a chopper mince the meat -as fine as possible, and season it well with pepper, salt, sage, and -sweet marjoram, adding some powdered mace. Having divided the prepared -meats into four equal parts, tie up each portion tightly in a clean -coarse cloth, and press it into a compact cake, by putting on heavy -weights. It will be fit for use next day. In a cool dry place it will -keep all winter. It requires no farther cooking, and is eaten sliced at -breakfast, luncheon, or supper. If well made, and well seasoned with the -herbs and spices, it will be found very nice for a relish. - - -LIVER PUDDINGS.--Boil some pigs' livers, and when cold mince them, -adding some cold ham or bacon, in the proportion of a pound of liver to -a quarter of a pound of fat bacon. Add also some boiled pigs' feet, -allowing to each pound of liver four pigs' feet boiled, skinned, boned, -and chopped. Season with pepper, powdered mace or nutmeg, and sweet -herbs, (sweet basil and marjoram.) Put the mixture (packed hard,) into -straight-sided tin or white ware pans, and cover them with a clean -cloth. Put heavy weights on the top. Cover them also with folded brown -paper, and set them in a cool dry place. They will be fit to eat next -day. Slice them thick, and send them to the tea or breakfast table. Or -you may fill with the mixture, some nicely cleaned and very transparent -sausage skins, (of a large size,) and tie up the ends with coarse brown -thread, to be removed before going to table. - -You may cut them into large pieces, and broil them, or fry them in lard. - -Calves' liver makes still nicer puddings. - -Keep liver puddings in flat stone jars. - -Never use newspaper to cover or wrap up any thing eatable. The black -always rubs off, and the copperas in the printing ink is very poisonous. - - - - -HAM, etc. - - -BRINE FOR PICKLING MEAT.--To every four gallons of water allow four -pounds of fine salt, two ounces of saltpetre, three pounds of brown -sugar, and two quarts of West India molasses. Boil the whole together, -stirring it well, and skimming it after stirring. When clear, let it -cool. The meat being clean and dry, rub it all over with ground red -pepper. Then put as much meat into the pickling-tub as can be very well -covered by the brine, which must be poured on cold. Let it remain six -weeks in the pickle, (carefully taking off the scum,) and turning each -piece every day. Afterwards, hang it till it is dry outside, and then -smoke it well for a fortnight, hanging it high above the fire with the -large end downward. The fire in the smoke-house should be steadily kept -up all the time. Hickory or oak is the best wood for this purpose. On no -account use pine, cedar, spruce, or hemlock. They will communicate to -the meat a strong taste of turpentine, and render it uneatable. A fire -made of corn-cobs is excellent for smoking meat, and they should be -saved for that purpose. When the meat is smoked, rub it all over with -ground pepper to prevent insects, and sew up all the pieces in new -cotton cloths, coarse and thick, and then white-wash them. We have seen -ham-covers, painted with flowers and gilded. Since California, gilding -pervades the land. - -This pickle will be found excellent for hams, bacon, tongues, or beef. -Meat for pickling must be very fresh, and of excellent quality. Before -sewing it up in covers see that it is free from insects. If to go to -sea, pack in boxes of powdered charcoal for a long voyage. For a short -one, barrels of wood-ashes will do. - - -TO CURE HAMS.--To make good hams the pork must be of the best quality. -No animal tastes so much of its food as the pig. In America, we -consider a pig "killed off the slop" as unfit to eat; and so he is. All -our pigs are kept up in a pen, and fattened with Indian corn, or corn -meal, for several weeks previous to killing. A hundred pounds of corn -meal, (mixed with water to about the consistency of very thick mush,) is -said to be equal in fattening pigs to two hundred pounds of dry-shelled -corn. They should be kept up, and well fed for eight weeks; and -occasionally, in the country, where such fruits are superabundant, the -pigs should have a regale of melons, peaches, &c. This we have seen, and -the pork was, of course, very fine. The hams or hind-quarters are -considered the most valuable part of the animal. They are cured in -various modes. But the Newbold receipt has hitherto been the most -popular. Mr. Newbold was a Pennsylvania farmer. The following -directions, we believe, are authentic. - -For one hundred pounds of fine pork, take seven pounds of coarse salt, -five pounds of brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of -pearlash, and four gallons of water. Boil all together, and skim the -pickle when cold. Pour it on the meat. Let hams or tongues remain in the -pickling-tub eight weeks. Before it is smoked, hang it up and dry it two -or three days. Three weeks will be sufficient for pickling beef. -Previous to sewing the hams in cases, rub them all over with ground -black pepper. - -Soap-suds given frequently to pigs, when kept up to fatten, will greatly -promote their health. - - -BOILED HAM.--Having soaked a fine ham from early in the evening till -near bed-time, putting it into warm water, and changing that water about -ten or eleven o'clock--wash and brush it well in the morning, and trim -it so as to look nicely all over. Lay at the bottom of the ham-boiler a -bed of nice fresh hay, which will greatly improve the flavor. Let the -hock bone be sawed off short. A long shank bone looks very awkward. -Place the ham upon the hay--pour in plenty of cold water, and keep it -simmering very slowly an hour before you allow it to boil. Then increase -the heat gradually, and keep the ham boiling steadily for four, five, or -six hours, according to its size and age. An old ham requires more -soaking and boiling than a new one. Skim it frequently after the boiling -begins. It will be much improved by transferring it to a spit, (having -taken off the whole skin,) and roasting the ham, for the last two or -three hours, basting it with its own essence. Save the skin to cover the -cold ham, and keep it fresh. Before it goes to table cover the ham with -grated bread-crumbs, sifted on so as to form a slight crust. - -If the ham is to be eaten cold, and is intended for company, brush it -all over with beaten yolk of egg. Then dredge on sufficient grated -crumbs to form a crust half an inch thick, and finish by going all over -it with cream. Set it to brown in an oven, or put it on the spit of a -roaster. When cold, this glazing will be found surpassingly fine. -Decorate the hock with white paper, handsomely cut, or with a bunch of -flowers cut out of vegetables. - -Carve a ham in very thin slices--if cut thick, they have not the same -taste, besides looking ungenteelly. - - -BAKED HAM.--For baking, take a small ham, or part of a large one, -trimmed and made of good shape, cutting away whatever looks unsightly. -Have the bone sawed off at the knuckle, or end of the hock. The evening -previous to cooking, lay the ham in soak in a large pan of hot water. At -bed-time pour off the water, and renew it. Keep it closely covered all -night. In the morning wash and brush it well. Make a coarse paste of -coarse flour mixed with water only, and roll it out about an inch thick. -Line a clean iron bake-oven with this, and put in the ham, reserving -enough of paste to cover the top. Pour in a very little water, merely -sufficient to keep the ham from burning. Put on the lid of paste, and -having wet the edges slightly press them together, so as to unite -closely the top and bottom crust. Bake it over a steady fire, from four -to five or six hours, or more, according to its size. When done, skim -the gravy, remove the paste, (which is of no farther use,) and take off -the skin of the ham. Dredge it all over with finely grated bread-crumbs, -before it goes to table. A ham can scarcely be cooked too much, and too -slow. The general fault is in cooking them too little, and too fast. A -ham of the smallest size will require at least four hours baking or -boiling, even after it has been all night in soak. Save the skin whole, -to cover the cold ham when it is put away in the pantry. - -When a cooked ham is nearly all used up, take what remains, cut it all -off from the bone, and stew the bits in a little water, till they are -all to rags. You will find the essence an improvement to gravies, -strained from the fragments. - - -MADEIRA HAM.--This is a dish only seen at dinner parties. No one can -believe, for a moment, that hams really cooked in Madeira wine are -served up every week at hotels, particularly at those houses where there -is no other superfluity, and where most of the great dishes exist only -in the bill of fare. A genuine Madeira ham is cooked as follows:--Take a -ham of the very finest sort; should be a Westphalia one. Lay it in hot -water, and soak it all day and all night, changing the water several -times, and every time washing out the pan. Early in the morning of the -second day, put the ham into a large pot of cold water, and boil it -slowly during four hours, skimming it well. Then take it out, remove the -skin entirely, and put the ham into a clean boiler, with sufficient -Madeira wine to cover it well. Boil, or rather stew it, an hour longer, -keeping the pot covered except when you remove the lid to turn the ham. -When well stewed take it up, drain it, and strain the liquor into a -porcelain-lined saucepan. Have ready a sufficiency of powdered white -sugar. Cover the ham all over with a thick coating of the sugar, and set -it into a hot oven to bake for an hour. - -Mix some orange or lemon-juice with the liquor adding plenty of sugar -and nutmeg. Give it one boil up over the fire, and serve it up in a -tureen, as sauce to the ham. - -What is left of the ham may be cut next day into small pieces, put into -a stew-pan, with the remains of the liquor or sauce poured over it, and -stewed for a quarter of an hour or more. Serve it up all together in the -same dish. While it is on the fire, add a little butter to the stew. - - -BROILED HAM.--Ham for broiling or frying should be cut into thin slices -the evening before, trimmed, and laid in a pan of boiling water, which, -near bed-time, should be changed for cold water, and very early in the -morning for boiling water, in which it should lie half an hour to soak -still longer. If ham is not well soaked previously, it will, when -broiled or fried, be disagreeably hard and salt; the salt frying out to -the surface and forming a rough unpleasant crust, which will create -thirst in the eaters for hours after. Much of the salt of a ham goes off -in boiling, but if it is _not_ boiled or soaked, the salt comes out to -the surface and there it sticks. The slices being cut thin and nicely -trimmed, they should be broiled on a very clean gridiron over a clear -fire, and so well done that they incline to curl up at the edges. Dish -them hot, and lay on every slice a very small bit of fresh butter, and -sprinkle them with pepper. - - -FRIED HAM.--Ham for frying need not be _quite_ so thin as for broiling. -Put but little butter in the frying-pan, as their own fat is generally -sufficient to cook them. Break an egg over the middle of each slice, and -let it cook till the white is set, and the yolk appears round and yellow -through it. Before it goes to table trim off nicely the discolored and -ragged edges of the fried eggs. They look disgusting when left on. - -Cold ham is excellent for broiling or frying, and very nice without any -further cooking. Send it to table strewed with either nasturtion -flowers, pepper-grass, or parsley. All these things have a fine flavor -of their own, especially nasturtions. - - -NICE FRIED HAM.--Having scalded and soaked some nice ham, cut it into -rather thick slices, and then cut these slices into mouthfuls or little -narrow slips. Put them into a hot frying-pan, and fry them well. When -done, season them with pepper and nutmeg, and serve them up in their own -gravy. It will be an improvement to add a beaten egg just before they go -to table. - -You may add to the ham some bits of cold boiled chicken, pulled in -little slips, from the breast, and fried with the ham, adding a little -fresh butter. - - -SLICED HAM.--Slice very thin some cold boiled ham, and let the slices be -nearly of the same size and appearance, making them look as handsome as -you can. Cover them with fresh green pepper-grass at a summer breakfast -or tea-table; and decorate the pepper-grass by interspersing with it -some nasturtion flowers, which are very nice to eat, having a taste -agreeably and slightly pungent. Pepper-grass and nasturtions, are very -appetizing accompaniments to nice bread and butter. - - -DISGUISED HAM.--Scrape or grate a pound of cold boiled ham, twice as -much lean as fat. Season it slightly with pepper and a little powdered -mace or nutmeg. Beat the yolks only, of three eggs, and mix with them -the ham. Spread the mixture thickly over slices of very nice toast, with -the crust pared off, and the toast buttered while hot. Brush it slightly -on the surface with white of egg, and then brown it with a red hot -shovel or salamander. This is a nice breakfast dish. - - -HAM CAKE.--This should be made the day before it is wanted. Take the -remains of a cold ham. Cut it into small bits, and pound it well (fat -and lean together) in a marble mortar, adding some butter and grated -nutmeg; or a little cream, sufficient to moisten it throughout. Fill a -mould with the mixture, and set it for half an hour into a moderate -oven. When ready for use, set the mould for a few minutes into hot -water, and then turn out the ham cake on a dish. Cover the surface all -over with a coating of beaten white of egg. And before it is quite dry, -decorate it with capers, or pickled nasturtion seeds, arranged in a -pattern. - -Send small bread rolls to the supper table with the ham cake. - - -HAM OMELET.--Mince very fine some cold boiled ham, (twice as much lean -as fat,) till you have a half pint. Break six eggs, and strain them into -a shallow pan. Beat them till very light and thick, and then stir in -gradually the minced ham. Have ready, in a hot omelet pan, three -table-spoonfuls of lard. When the lard boils, put in the omelet mixture -and fry it. Occasionally slip a knife under the edge to keep it loose -from the pan. It should be near an inch thick, as a ham omelet is best -not to fold over. Make it a good even shape; and when one side is done, -turn the other and brown it. You can turn it easily with a knife and -fork, holding carefully, close to the omelet, the hot dish on which it -is to go to table. Dredge the surface with a little cayenne. - -Omelets may be made in this manner, of smoked tongue, or oysters -chopped, cold sweetbread, asparagus minced, boiled onions, mushrooms, -&c. A good allowance for a small omelet is the above proportion of eggs -and lard, or fresh butter; and a large tea-cup of the seasoning article, -which must always have been previously cooked. - -They are much lighter when served up of their full size, and not folded -over in halfs. A large omelet must have from eight to ten, or a dozen -eggs. It is best to bake all omelets of the six egg size, and have more -in number if required. - - -HAM TOAST.--Make some very nice slices of toast, with all the crust -trimmed off; and dip each toast for an instant into a bowl of hot water, -then butter it slightly. Have ready some grated cold ham, and spread it -thick over each slice of toast. Tongue toast is made in the same manner. - - -SANDWICHES.--Spread some thin slices of bread very thinly with nice -fresh butter, and lay a thin slice of cold ham (the edges neatly -trimmed) between every two slices of bread and butter. You may make them -so thin, as to roll up--a number being piled on a plate. - - -BISCUIT SANDWICHES.--This is a very nice and very pretty dish for a -supper table. Have ready one or two dozen of fresh soft milk biscuit. -Split them, and take a very little of the soft crumb out of each -biscuit, so as to make a slight hollow. Butter the biscuits with very -nice fresh butter, and fill them liberally with grated ham or tongue. -Stick round the inside of the edges, full sprigs of pepper-grass, or -curled parsley, or the green tops of celery. Arrange the sprigs closely -and handsomely, so as to project out all round the sides, forming a -green border or fringe. We highly recommend biscuit sandwiches. - - -POTTED HAM.--Take some cold ham, slice it, and mince it small, fat and -lean together. Then pound it in a mortar; seasoning it as you proceed -with cayenne pepper, powdered mace, and powdered nutmeg. Then fill with -it a large deep pan, and set it in an oven for half an hour. Afterwards -pack it down hard in a stone jar, and fill up the jar with lard. Cover -it closely, and paste down a thick paper over the jar. If sufficiently -seasoned, it will keep well in winter; and is convenient for sandwiches, -or on the tea-table. A jar of this will be found useful to travelers in -remote places. - -Tongue may be potted as above. - - -TO PREPARE BACON.--All pieces of pork that, after pickling, are dried -and smoked, come under the denomination of bacon; except the -hind-quarters or legs, and they are always called ham, and are justly -considered superior to any other part of the animal, and bring a higher -price. The shoulders or fore-quarters, the sides or flitches, the jowl -or head, and all the other parts, are designated as bacon; and in some -places they erroneously give that name to the whole animal, if cured, or -preserved by the process of smoking. - -To prepare bacon for being cooked, examine it well, and scrape it -carefully, and trim off all unsightly parts. If the fat is yellow, the -meat is rusty or tainted, and not fit to eat. So, also, if on the lean -there are brownish or blackish spots. All sorts of food, if kept too -long, should be thrown away at once. - -If perfectly good, prepare the bacon for cooking, by washing it well, -and then soaking it for several hours in a pan full of cold water, -removing the water once or twice during the process. If the bacon is -salt and hard, soak it all night, changing the water at bed-time, and -early in the morning. - -Ham should also be soaked before cooking. - -A dish of broiled ham is a nice accompaniment to one of calves' -chitterlings, at breakfast. - - -TO BOIL BACON.--Put two or three pounds of nice bacon into a pot with -plenty of cold water, and let it simmer slowly for an hour before it -begins to boil. Skim it well, and when no more scum rises, put in the -vegetables which are usually eaten with bacon, and which taste better -for boiling with the meat. These are young greens, or sprouts, very -young roots and leaves of the poke plant, and green beans--strung and -cut in half--not smaller. On no account should any other vegetables be -boiled with bacon. When the bacon is so tender as to be easily pierced -through with a fork, even in the thickest places, take it up and drain -it well in a cullender or sieve. Remove the skin. Then take up the -vegetables and drain them also, pressing out _all_ the liquid. Season -them with pepper only. Send the meat to table with the vegetables heaped -round it, on the same large dish, (the cabbage being chopped, but not -minced fine.) Potatos, squashes, peas, asparagus, &c., should never be -boiled in the same pot, or served up in the same dish with bacon, which -is too plain a dish for any but a country table; while a ham is a -delicacy for the city, or for any place. - - -BACON AND BEANS.--Scrape and trim a nice piece of bacon, (not too fat,) -and see that no part of it looks yellow or rusty, or shows any -appearance of being too old. If so, do not cook it, as it is -unwholesome, unpalatable, and unfit to eat. A shoulder is a good piece -to boil. The best of the animal, when smoked, is, of course, the ham or -leg. We are now speaking of the other pieces that, when cured, are -properly called bacon, and are eaten at plain tables only. - -The meat, if very salt, is the better for being put in soak early in the -morning, or the night before. Afterwards put it into a pot, and boil and -skim it till tender. Have ready a quart or two of fresh green string -beans, cut into three pieces, (not more); put them into the pot in which -the bacon is boiling, and let them cook with the meat for an hour or -more. When done, take them out, drain them well; season them well with -pepper, and send them to table on a separate dish from the bacon. - -Many persons like so well this bacon flavor, that they _always_, when -boiling string-beans, put a small piece of bacon in the pot, removing it -before the beans are sent to table. - -With bacon and beans, serve up whole potatos boiled and peeled--and in -the country, where cream is plenty, they boil some with butter, and pour -it over the potatos, touching each one with pepper. - - -BROILED HAM OR BACON.--Wash and trim a nice piece of bacon; soak it all -night, or for several hours, in cold water. In the morning scald it with -boiling water. Let it lie till cool, then throw away the water, and -scald it again. Cut it into thin slices, very smooth and even; the rind -being previously pared off. Curl up the slices, rolling them round, and -securing them with wooden skewers. Broil them on a gridiron, or bake -them in a Dutch oven. If cut properly thin, they will cook in a quarter -of an hour. They must not be allowed to burn or blacken. Before you send -them to table, take out the skewers. They may be cooked in flat slices, -without curling, but they must be cut always very thin. Slice some -hard-boiled eggs, and lay them on the meat. Season with black pepper. - -_Cold_ boiled ham cooked as above, will require no soaking, and can be -speedily prepared for a breakfast dish. Lay sprigs of parsley on the -ham. - -Serve up with them mashed potatos made into balls, or thick flat cakes, -and browned on the surface with a red-hot shovel. - - -STEWED HAM.--Cut some thin slices of cold boiled ham. Season them -slightly with pepper. No salt. Lay them in a stew pan with plenty of -green peas or lima beans, or else cauliflowers, or young summer cabbage, -quartered, and the thick stalk omitted. Add a piece of fresh butter, or -_a very little lard_. Put in just water enough to keep the things from -burning. When the vegetables are quite done, add a beaten egg or two, -and in five minutes, take up the stew and send it to table. - - -STEWED BACON.--Take a small piece of bacon, not too fat or salt. It had -best be soaked in cold water the night before. Put it into a pot, with a -large portion of string beans, each cut into three pieces, (not more,) -or else some cabbage, or young cabbage sprouts. Early in the spring, the -young stalks of the pokeberry plant will be found excellent with stewed -bacon. Stew the bacon and vegetables in just water enough to cover them -all; skimming frequently. Drain all, through a cullender, when done. -Have a dish of boiled potatos also. A molasses indian pudding is a good -conclusion to this homely dinner. - - -PREPARED LARD.--As soon as it is cut off from the newly killed pork, put -the fat into a crock, or deep earthen pot. Cover the crock with its own -lid, and let it stand all night in a cool place. Next day, cut it into -small bits, (carefully removing all the fleshy particles of lean); and -then put the fat into a _very clean_ pot, without either water or salt. -The pot should not be more than half full of pork-fat. Let it boil -_slowly_, (stirring it frequently from the bottom, lest it burn,) till -it becomes quite clear and transparent. Then ladle it into clean pans. -When almost cold, put it into stoneware jars, which must be closely -covered, and kept in a cool place. If it is to go to a distance, tie it -up in new bladders. - -There are two sorts of pork-fat for lard. The leaf-fat, which is best; -and the fat that adheres to the entrails. These two fats should be -boiled separately. - -The large entrails, whose skins are to be used for sausages, must be -cleaned out carefully, well scraped, and thrown into strong salt and -water for two days, (changing the brine the second day,) and afterwards -into strong lye for twenty-four hours. Lastly, wash them in fresh water. -We think it much better to dispense with the skins altogether; keeping -your sausage meat in jars, and frying it in cakes when wanted for use. -Its own fat (as it exudes) will cook it. - -Never use bad butter when you can obtain good lard, for frying, and -other purposes. - - - - -VENISON. - - -You may judge of the age of venison by looking at the hoof, which is -always left on the leg. The deer is young if the cleft of the hoof is -small and smooth; but large and rough, if he is old. Buck venison is -considered better than the meat of the doe. The haunch, or hind-quarter, -is the best part, and the fat upon it should, be thick and white. The -shoulder, or fore-quarter, is the next best piece. The saddle comprises -both hind-quarters; and these, for a large company, are always cooked -together. - -To eat venison in perfection, it should be killed when the deer can find -plenty of fresh food in the forest, and when they have fattened on the -abundance of wild berries, which they can obtain during the autumn. In -winter, they are brought into the cities, lean, hard, dry, and black, -and the meat infested all through with small threadlike white worms; -showing that decomposition has commenced, and requiring the disguise of -spices, wine, currant jelly, &c., to render it _eatable_, not -_wholesome_, for every sort of food in the slightest degree tainted is -utterly injurious to health, and cannot often be eaten with impunity. - -It never was very fashionable, in America, to eat spoiled victuals, and -it is now less so than ever. Fortunately, in our land of abundance, "we -do not see the necessity". - - -HAUNCH OF VENISON.--To prepare a haunch of venison for roasting (we will -suppose it to be _perfectly_ good and well kept,) wipe it thoroughly all -over with clean cloths, dipped in lukewarm water, and then go over it -with clean dry cloths. Trim off all unsightly parts. Lay over the fat a -large sheet of thick brown paper, well buttered, and securely tied on -with twine. Or else make a coarse paste of brown meal, and cover it with -that. Place it before a good steady fire, and let it roast from three to -four hours, according to its size. After roasting well for three hours, -remove the covering of paper or paste, and baste the meat well all over; -first with dripping or butter, and then with its own gravy, dredging it -very slightly with browned flour. Skim the fat off the gravy, and send -the venison to table plain, with sweet sauce of black currant jelly, or -raspberry jam, in a glass dish with a spoon in it. - - -VENISON STEAKS, BROILED.--Cut the steaks not quite an inch thick. Trim -them nicely, and season them with a little black pepper and salt. Have -ready, over a bed of clear bright hot coals from a wood fire, a gridiron -with grooved bars to catch the gravy. Put down the steaks, and when one -side is quite done turn the other, and broil that. Venison should always -be very thoroughly done. Before you take up the steaks, lay a bit of -nice fresh butter upon each. Take them up on a hot dish, and keep them -warm. Pour off the gravy into a small saucepan. Give it a boil over the -fire, and skim off all the fat from the surface. Stir into it some nice -wine, and serve up with the steaks a deep dish of cranberry, or peach -sauce, or a large cup of grape jelly. - - -STEWED VENISON STEAKS.--Take some fine steaks of _freshly killed_ -venison. Cut them from the upper part of the leg. Make a forcemeat, or -stuffing, with bread soaked in milk, mixed with fresh butter, with -chopped sweet marjoram and sweet basil; or some boiled onions, minced -small, and mixed with chopped sage, which may be boiled _with_ the -onion, and seasoned with a very little salt and pepper. Spread the -stuffing thickly over the inside of the steaks. Then roll them up, and -tie them round with packthread, or secure them at the ends with wooden -skewers. Put the steaks into a stewpan with some fresh butter or lard, -or some drippings that have been left of roast venison--the day before. -Let them stew (keeping the pan covered) till thoroughly done. Then dish -them with the gravy round them. Serve up with them a sauce of stewed -cranberries, or stewed dried peaches. - -You may stew lamb or mutton cutlets in the same manner, but do not use -mutton dripping. Water (a very small quantity) is best for them. Veal -cutlets may be stewed exactly like venison. - - -HASHED VENISON.--Take the remains of cold roast venison, from which -sufficient gravy or dripping has been saved to cook the meat again, -without any water at all. It would be well if this were done in all -hashes made from cold meat. For want of drippings, use butter or lard. -Cold meat stewed in water is weak and unpalatable. - -Two or three large spoonfuls of mushroom, or tomato catchup, are -improvements to all hashes. If nothing better can be obtained use -onions, always previously boiled to render them less strong. - -Minced sweet herbs are excellent seasoning for hashes. Also minced -tarragon leaves; they give a peculiar flavor that is very generally -liked. Fresh tarragon is in season in July, August, and September. - -French mustard (to be obtained at all the best grocery stores) is a -great improvement to hashes and stews. Stir in at the last, one or two -large table-spoonfuls. The chief ingredient of French mustard is -tarragon. - - -A FINE VENISON PIE.--Cut steaks from a loin or haunch of venison, which -should be as freshly killed as you can get it. The strange and absurd -prejudice in favor of hard black-looking venison, (that has been kept -till the juices are all dried up,) is fast subsiding; and no one now -eats any sort of food in which decomposition has commenced. Those who -have eaten venison fresh from the forest, when the deer have fattened -on wild grapes, huckleberries, blackberries, cranberries, &c., will -never again be able to relish such as is brought in wagon loads to the -Atlantic cities, and which has been kept till full of those fine threads -that are in reality long thin whitish worms, and which are often seen in -very old hams. - -Having removed the bones and cut the meat into steaks, and seasoned it -with salt and pepper, put the venison into a pot, with merely as much -water as will cover it well. Let it stew till perfectly tender, skimming -it occasionally. Then take it out, and set it to cool, saving the gravy -in a bowl. Make a nice puff paste; divide the paste into two equal -portions, and roll it out rather thick. Butter a deep dish, and line it -with one of the sheets of paste, rolled thin at the bottom. Then put in -the stewed venison. Season the gravy with a glass of _very good_ wine, -(either port or sherry,) a few blades of mace, and a powdered nutmeg. -Stir into it the crumbled yolks of some hard-boiled eggs. Pour the gravy -over the meat, and put on the other sheet of paste, as the lid of the -pie. Bring the two edges close together, so as to unite evenly, and -notch them handsomely. Set it immediately into the oven, and bake it -well. If a steady heat is kept up, it will be done in an hour. Send it -to table hot. - -Instead of wine, you may put into the gravy half a pint of _black_ -currant jelly, which, for venison, is thought preferable to red. Either -will do. - -Any sort of game, partridges, pheasants, grouse, wild ducks, &c., may -be made into a fine pie, exactly as above. - - -VERY PLAIN VENISON PIE.--Cut from the bone some good pieces of fine -_fresh_ venison, season them slightly with salt and pepper, and put them -into a pot with plenty of potatos, (either sweet or white,) split and -quartered, and only as much water as will cover the whole. Set it over -the fire, cover it, and let it stew slowly and steadily, till all is -tender, skimming it several times. Meanwhile, make a nice paste of flour -shortened with cold gravy, or drippings saved from roast venison, or of -nice lard. Allow half a pint of shortening to each quart of flour. Put -the flour into a pan, and rub the shortening into it as quickly as -possible, adding a _very little_ cold water, to make it into a lump of -paste. Then roll it out into a sheet, and spread over it with a broad -knife the remaining half of the shortening. Dredge lightly with flour, -fold it up, and roll it out in two sheets. With one of them line your -pie-dish, and put into it the stewed venison and potatos. Pour in the -gravy of the stew. The filling of this pie should be piled high in the -centre. Lay on, as a lid, the other sheet of paste, which should be -rather the largest. Pare off smoothly the edges of the two crusts, and -crimp them nicely. Set the pie in the oven, and bake it well. It may be -eaten either hot or cold, but is best hot. - -The above quantity of paste is only sufficient for a very small pie. -For one of moderate size allow two quarts of flour, and a pound of -shortening. - - -VENISON POT-PIE.--Remove the bone from some fine venison steaks, cut -near an inch thick. Season them lightly with pepper and salt, and score -them each in several places. Stew them in a very little water till -tender. Have ready an ample portion of nice suet paste. If you cannot -obtain beef suet use cold venison fat, minced fine and made into a paste -with double its quantity in flour, and as little water as possible. Lay -some stewed venison at the bottom of the pot, and line the sides with -paste almost up to the top. Put in the meat, adding among it boiled -sweet potatos cut into pieces, or (if they are to be had in plenty,) -chestnuts, boiled and peeled. Mushrooms will be a great improvement. -Onion also, (if liked,) boiled and cut up. Intersperse the whole with -square pieces of paste. Fill the pot almost to the top with the meat and -other ingredients. Lay a thick paste over the whole, cut round to fit, -but not too closely. Pour in a pint of warm water to increase the gravy. -Make a cross slit in the middle of the upper crust. Cook the pie till -all is well done. Serve it up with the brown crust in pieces, and laid -on the top. - -This pie, if well made, and with plenty of paste, will be thought -excellent whenever fresh venison is to be had. - - -VENISON HAM.--Take fine freshly-killed venison. Mix together an ounce of -saltpetre, a pound of coarse brown sugar, and a pound of salt. Let them -be very thoroughly mixed and pounded. Rub this well into the meat, and -continue rubbing hard till it froths. Keep the meat in the pickle for -two weeks, turning it every day. Then take it out, and roll it in -saw-dust, (which, on no account, must be the saw-dust of any species of -pine.) Hang it for two weeks longer in the smoke of oak wood or of corn -cobs. All hams, when being smoked, must be hung very high, and have the -large end downwards. If hung too low, the heat softens or melts the fat. - -Venison hams, if well cured, require no boiling. They are always eaten -chipped or shaved like smoked beef, to which they are very superior. It -may be stewed in a skillet with fresh butter and beaten egg, and cut -into thin shavings, or very thin small slices--or, instead of butter, -with the drippings of cold roast venison. Season with pepper only. - - -RABBITS.--Rabbits should be young and tender, but full-grown and fat. -Two are required to make a dish. One rabbit, except for an invalid, is -scarcely worth the trouble of cooking; and, being naturally insipid, it -must have certain seasoning to make it taste well. The hare, so much -prized in England, owes its reputation entirely to their mode of -dressing it, which is troublesome, expensive, and in our country would -never become popular, unless the animal had in itself more to recommend -it. With all that can be done for a hare, it is, when cooked, black, -dry, hard; and if it has been kept long enough to acquire what they call -the "true game flavor," so much the worse. A fine fat well-fed tame -rabbit is much better. In Virginia, the negroes frequently call a large -rabbit "a hare"--or rather "a yar;" and though they know it to be young, -they generally term it "that old yar." We opine that _with them_ "yars" -are not admired. If a rabbit is really old his ears are tough, and his -claws blunt and rough with coarse hairs growing between them. A young -rabbit has short sharp claws, and ears so tender that on trying you can -easily tear them. Rabbits should be cooked the day they are killed. -Always cut off the head. A rabbit dished whole, with its head on, is, to -most persons, a disgusting sight. The head of no small animal is worth -eating, and always looks disagreeable when cooked. - -The livers of rabbits should be added to the gravy. - - -ROASTED RABBITS.--Take a pair of fine well-fed young rabbits, and having -drawn or emptied them, lay them, for about ten minutes, in a pan of warm -water. Then dry them inside with a clean cloth, carefully wiping them -out. Truss them short, and neatly, having removed the heads. Line the -inside with very thin slices of fat bacon that has had most of the salt -soaked out. Make a plentiful stuffing or forcemeat of bread steeped in -milk, some fresh butter mixed with a very little flour; or, instead of -butter, some beef suet finely minced; some chopped sweet herbs; and some -crumbled yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Season with mace and nutmeg, and -grated lemon rind. Fill the rabbits well with this--or, you may stuff -them entirely with boiled potatos, mashed with plenty of nice butter, or -the drippings of roast veal or pork. Or (if liked) you may make the -stuffing entirely of minced onion, (previously boiled,) and minced sage -leaves, moistened with a very little lard or sweet oil, and seasoned -with powdered mace, nutmeg, and pepper. Having put in plenty of -stuffing, sew up the bodies of the rabbits, flour them well, and put -them on the spit and set them before a clear fire. Baste them with milk, -or with fresh butter, tied up in thin muslin. They will be done in an -hour or more. Thicken the gravy with flour, and pour it over them in the -dish. Roasted rabbits make a good second dish at a small dinner. Take -the livers of the rabbits, and chop them, to put into the gravy. - - -RABBITS WITH ONIONS.--Peel, boil, and slice six (or more) large onions, -and season them with nutmeg, and a very little cayenne. Cover them, and -set them aside till wanted. Cut two fine rabbits into pieces, and fry -them in fresh butter or lard. When browned, and nearly done, cover them -with the sliced onions, and brown _them_, having laid among them some -bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Dish the rabbits, with the pieces -entirely hidden under the onions. - -A plainer, and not so good a way, is to put the pieces of rabbit, and -the sliced onions, into a stew-pan with a little water, and stew the -whole together. - - -RABBIT POT-PIE.--Cut up the rabbits, and stew them in a little water. -When nearly done, put the pieces into a pot and intersperse them with -bits of cold ham. Add the gravy left from the stew. Season with pepper -and mace. Have ready sufficient paste, (made with minced suet, and -rather more than twice its quantity of flour.) There must be enough of -paste to line the sides of the pot all round, nearly up to the top, and -enough to make a thick lid, besides having plenty of extra pieces to lay -among the other contents. Also have ready a few onions boiled and -sliced. Cover the pie with the lid of paste, not fitting very closely. -Make a cross slit in the top, and pour in a little water. When done, -serve all up on one large dish. - -This pie will be much improved by stewing with the rabbits a fresh beef -steak. A beef steak in any pot-pie thickens and enriches the gravy. - - -PULLED RABBITS.--Boil, very tender, a fine pair of nice young rabbits. -When cold, cut them in pieces as for carving, and peel off the skin. -Then with a fork pull all the meat from the bones, first loosening it -with a knife. Put it into a stew-pan with plenty of cream, or some bits -of fresh butter rolled in flour; some minced sweet herbs, some grated -fresh lemon rind, and some hard-boiled yolks of eggs crumbled. Season -with cayenne and nutmeg. Cover it, and let it simmer till it comes to a -boil. Then immediately take it off the fire, and transfer it to a deep -dish. Serve it up hot. This is a side dish at dinner. - - -FRICASSEED RABBITS.--Cut up the rabbits as for carving, and go over -every piece with lard or sweet oil. Lay them in a frying pan, and fry -them in nice fresh butter. If you cannot procure this, use lard. Season -them with a very little salt and cayenne, dredge them well with flour, -and sprinkle them thickly with parsley, or sweet marjoram. When they are -fried brown, take them up. Keep them warm in a heated dish with a cover. -Skim the gravy that remains in the pan, and add to it some cream, or -rich milk thickened with flour, enriched with the beaten yolk of an egg, -and flavored with nutmeg. - -Rabbits may be cut up, and fried in batter made of bread-crumbs and -beaten egg. Dip every piece of rabbit twice into the batter. - - -A COATED HARE, OR LARGE RABBIT.--The hare, or rabbit, should be large -and fat. Save the liver and heart to assist in the gravy, which ought to -be made of some pieces of the lean of good fresh beef, seasoned with -pepper, salt, and nutmeg, stewed in a small sauce-pan, till all the -essence is extracted, adding the chopped liver and heart, and a bit of -fresh butter, rolled in flour. Cold fresh meat, or meat that has to be -recooked, is unfit for gravy, and so it is for soup. Line the inside of -the hare with small thin slices of fat ham, or bacon, and then fill the -cavity with a stuffing made of grated bread-crumbs, the grated yellow -rind and juice of a lemon, or orange, a piece of fresh butter, some -minced sweet marjoram, and the crumbled yolk of one or two hard-boiled -eggs. Season the stuffing with a little pepper and salt, and some -powdered nutmeg and mace. Fill the body of the hare with this mixture, -and sew it up, to keep in the stuffing. Spit the hare, and roast it -well, keeping it for a while at a moderate distance from the fire. To -baste it, while roasting, make a dressing of the beaten yolks of four -eggs, four spoonfuls of flour, a pint of milk, and three table-spoonfuls -of salad oil, all well-beaten together. Baste the hare with this till it -is thickly coated all over with the batter, taking care it does not -burn. Send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat, accompanied by currant, -or cranberry jelly. - -A very young fawn, or a kid, may be drest in a similar manner. Kids are -not eaten after three months old. Till that age their meat is white and -delicate. Their flesh, _after_ that time, gradually becomes coarse and -dark-colored. A very young kid, before it is weaned, is very delicious; -but no longer. In the oriental countries, young kids are stuffed with -chopped raisins and almonds, or pistachio nuts, previous to roasting; -and basted with rich milk, or cream. - -For sauce to a kid or fawn, use orange marmalade, or grape jelly. - - - - -POULTRY AND GAME. - - -Spring chickens bring a high price, and are considered delicacies, but -they are so insipid, and have so little on them, that we think the -purchase of them, when very young, a mere fashionable extravagance, and -a waste of money that might be better employed in something that had -really a fine flavor, and that when divided was more than a morsel for -each person. We wonder that any but invalids should care for spring -chickens. It is better to wait till the young chickens grow into nice -plump fowls, that were well fed, and have lived long enough to show it. -A fine full-grown young fowl, has a clear white skin, that tears easily -when tried with a pin. It has a broad fleshy breast, the legs are -smooth, and the toes easily broken when bent back. Fowls with whitish -legs are considered the best for boiling; those with dark legs the best -for roasting. The finest of all fowls are capons. They grow very large -and fat, and yet are as tender as young chickens, have a fine delicate -rich flavor of their own, and are well worth their cost. The great Bucks -county fowls are profitable because they are large; but they are never -very plenty in market, being difficult to raise. The best poultry feels -heavy in proportion to its size. Hen turkeys are best for boiling. - -Ducks and geese (particularly the latter) are so tough when old, that it -is often impossible to eat them; therefore buy none that are not young. -Geese are generally kept alive too long, for the sake of their feathers, -which they always shed in August, and for which there is always a -demand. And geese are not expensive to keep, as in summer they feed on -grass, and will graze in a field like sheep. The feet and legs of an old -goose are red and hard. So is her bill. The skin is rough, coarse, and -tough, and full of hairs. Let nothing induce you to buy an old goose. -You would find it too tough to carve, and too tough to eat. And no -cooking can make her tender. - -Poultry should be drawn, or emptied (taking care not to break the gall) -as soon almost as killed. Then let it be well washed, inside and out, -and wiped dry. In picking it, carefully remove every plug or vestige of -feathers, and singe off the hairs, by holding the bird to the fire, with -a lighted piece of writing paper. Brown paper will give it something of -an unpleasant taste. Newspaper is worse, on account of the printing-ink. - -If poultry is brought from market frozen, you need not hasten to thaw -it, before it is actually wanted for use. Till then, put it in a cold -place, and let it remain frozen. It will keep the better. When you thaw -it, by all means use only _cold_ water. Any frozen poultry, or meat, -thawed in warm water, will most certainly spoil. Let it be remembered -that any food which has been frozen requires a much longer time to cook. - - -BOILED TURKEY.--For boiling, choose a fine fat hen turkey. In drawing -it, be careful not to break the gall, or a bitter taste will be -communicated to the whole bird. In picking, remove every plug and hair, -and then singe it with _writing-paper_. Wash it very clean, and then -wipe it dry, inside and out. In trussing, draw the legs into the body, -having cut them off at the first joint. Let the turkey look as round and -plump as possible. Fill the breast with a very nice forcemeat, or -stuffing, made of a quarter of a pound of grated bread-crumbs, mixed -with two large table-spoonfuls or two ounces of fresh butter, or finely -minced suet, seasoned with a little pepper and salt, a heaped -tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and mace mixed together, a -table-spoonful of sweet herbs[C] (sweet basil and sweet marjoram) -chopped small if green, and powdered if dry; and the crumbled yolks of -two hard-boiled eggs. Add the grated yellow rind, and the juice of a -fresh lemon, and mix the whole very well. Skewer the liver and gizzard -under the pinions, having first cut open the gizzard and cleared it of -sand or gravel. - - [C] The herbs summer savory and thyme (like the spices cloves and - allspice) are now seldom used in good cookery. - -It is no longer customary to mix stuffing or forcemeat with beaten raw -egg for the purpose of binding the ingredients together. Leave them -loose, without this binding, and the forcemeat will be much lighter, -better flavored, and more abundant. It will not fall out if a -packthread, or very _small_ twine is wound carefully round the body, (to -be removed before serving up,) and it may be secured by sewing it with a -needle and thread. - -Put the turkey into a large pot with plenty of cold water, and boil it -gently, for two hours or more, in proportion to its size; carefully -removing all the scum as it rises. It will be whiter if boiled in a -large clean cloth, or in a coarse paste, (the paste to be thrown away -afterwards,) and take care that it is thoroughly done. Serve up boiled -turkey with oyster sauce, celery sauce, or cauliflower sauce. Sweet -sauce is rarely eaten with boiled things--unless with puddings. - -Boiled turkey should be accompanied by a ham or tongue. - -To ascertain if boiled poultry is done, try the thickest parts with a -large needle. If the needle goes through, and in and out easily, it is -sufficient. - -A turkey (boiled or roast) for a family dish, may be stuffed with nice -sausage meat, in which case it requires no other stuffing. Surround it -on a dish with fried sausage cakes, about the size of a dollar, but -near an inch thick. - -It is very convenient to keep always in the house, during the winter -months, one or two large jars of nice home-made sausage-meat, well -covered. The best time for making sausage-meat is in November. After -March, sausages are seldom eaten. - - -OYSTER TURKEY.--(_French dish._)--Prepare a fine young hen turkey, for -boiling; skewering the liver and gizzard under the pinions. Fill the -body well with fine large fresh oysters, having removed their hard part -or gristle. Add to the oysters a tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and -mace, and a tea-spoonful of celery seed or minced celery, and a piece of -fresh butter dredged with flour. With this, stuff the turkey very full; -securing the stuffing with packthread. Put the turkey into a large -block-tin kettle, and let it stew in the oyster liquor only, without any -water. Strain the oyster liquor before you put it in. Set the kettle -into an outer kettle full of boiling water. This will cook the turkey -very nicely. For such purposes, nothing is so convenient as the utensil -called in French a _bain marie_, (pronounced _bine maree_.) This is a -permanent double kettle with two covers, and a large tube or spout -outside, for pouring in fresh hot water, without opening the lid and -letting out the steam. They are to be had of all sizes at the furnishing -stores in New York and Philadelphia, and are so excellent for stewing -without water, that no family should be without them. - -When the turkey is well boiled and quite done, keep it warm by wrapping -it closely in a cloth, putting a dish cover over it, and placing it near -the fire. A fine oyster gravy will be found in the kettle. Add to it -some fresh butter, dredged with flour, and some mace and nutmeg, and -some celery seed. Give it one boil up, and send it to table as sauce for -the turkey. This is a very nice way of cooking a small turkey. - -A pair of oyster chickens may be thus prepared, and stewed in the above -manner in a _bain marie_, or double kettle. - - -ROAST TURKEY.--Take a fine large turkey, full-grown and fat, draw and -singe him carefully, saving the giblets (neck, heart, gizzard, and -liver,) for the gravy. After he is drawn, wash the inside well, wipe it -dry, and sprinkle it with black pepper. Make a large quantity of -stuffing or forcemeat. It increases his apparent size, and besides is -generally liked. Mince small some cold boiled ham, in equal portions of -fat and lean: grated lemon rind, minced sweet herbs, fresh butter, or -finely minced suet. Add plenty of grated bread-crumbs or crumbled rusk; -also, hard-boiled yolk of egg crumbled. Moisten the mixture with lemon -juice and some good white wine. Stuff the turkey well with this -forcemeat, sewing it up, or winding a small cord round the body to -secure the filling. Roast it before a clear and substantial fire, -basting it well with fresh butter. When done, take it up and keep it -hot. - -Cut up the giblets and put them into a small sauce-pan, with a very -little water, and stew them while the turkey is roasting; adding a piece -of fresh butter dredged with flour. When done, remove the pieces of -neck, &c., retaining those of the heart, liver, and gizzard. Stir into -the gravy, after it comes from the fire, the yolk of a beaten egg. -Having skimmed the gravy in the dripping-pan, add it to the gravy that -has been made of the giblets, and send it to table in a sauce-boat. -Accompany the turkey with an oval dish, or tureen of cranberry sauce, -made very sweet. - -A roast turkey may be stuffed with oysters, or with chestnuts boiled, -peeled, and mashed with butter. If with chestnuts, thicken the gravy -with whole boiled chestnuts. If with oysters, send oyster-sauce to table -with the turkey. If chestnuts cannot be obtained, any roasted poultry is -good stuffed with well-boiled sweet potatos, mashed with plenty of -butter or meat drippings. - -The legs of turkeys are never helped to any one at table. They are -always sent away on the dish. - - -A BONED TURKEY.--For this purpose you must have a fine, large, tender -turkey; and after it is drawn, and washed, and wiped dry, lay it on a -clean table, and take a very sharp knife, with a narrow blade and point. -Begin at the neck; then go round to the shoulders and wings, and -carefully separate the flesh from the bone, scraping it down as you -proceed. Next loosen the flesh from the breast, and back, and body; and -then from the thighs. It requires care and patience to do it nicely, and -to avoid tearing or breaking the skin. The knife should always penetrate -quite to the bone; scraping loose the flesh rather than cutting it. When -all the flesh has been completely loosened, take the turkey by the neck, -give it a pull, and the whole skeleton will come out entirely from the -flesh, as easily as you draw your hand out of a glove. The flesh will -then fall down, a flat and shapeless mass. With a small needle and -thread, carefully sew up any holes that have accidentally been torn in -the skin. - -Have ready a large quantity of stuffing, made as follows:--Take three -sixpenny loaves of stale bread; grate the crumb; and put the crust in -water to soak. When quite soft, break them up small into the pan of -grated bread-crumbs, and mix in a pound of fresh butter, cut into little -pieces. Take two large bunches of sweet marjoram; the same of sweet -basil; and one bunch of parsley. Mince the parsley very fine, and rub to -a powder the leaves of the marjoram and basil. You should have two large -heaping table-spoonfuls of each. Chop, also, two very small onions or -shalots, and mix them with the herbs. Pound to powder a quarter of an -ounce of mace; and two large nutmegs. Mix the spices together, and add a -tea-spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper. Then -mix the herbs, spices, &c., thoroughly into the bread-crumbs, and add, -by degrees, four hard-boiled eggs crumbled fine. - -Take up a handful of this filling; squeeze it hard, and proceed to stuff -the turkey with it--beginning at the wings; next do the body; and then -the thighs. Stuff it very hard; and, as you proceed, form the turkey -into its natural shape, by filling out, properly, the wings, breast, -body, &c. When all the stuffing is in, sew up the body and skewer the -turkey into the usual shape in which they are trussed; so that, if -skillfully done, it will look almost as if it had not been boned. Tie it -round with tape, and bake it three hours or more; basting it -occasionally with fresh butter. Make a gravy of the giblets, chopped, -and stewed slowly in a little water. When done, add to it the gravy that -is in the dish about the turkey, (having first skimmed off the fat,) and -enrich it with a glass of white wine, and two beaten yolks of eggs, -stirred in just before you take it from the fire. - -If the turkey is to be eaten cold at the supper-table, drop -table-spoonfuls of currant or cranberry jelly all over it at small -distances, and in the dish round it. - -A very handsome way of serving it up cold is, after making a sufficiency -of nice clear calves'-foot jelly, (seasoned, as usual, with wine, lemon, -cinnamon, &c.,) to lay the turkey in the dish in which it is to go to -table, and setting it under the jelly-bag, let the jelly drip upon it, -so as to form a transparent coating all over it; smoothing the jelly -evenly with the back of a spoon, as it congeals on the turkey. Apple -jelly may be substituted. - -Large fowls may be boned and stuffed in the above manner: also, a young -roasting pig. - - -ROAST GOOSE.--A goose for roasting should be young, tender, and fat; so -tender, that the skin can easily be torn by a pin; the bill and legs -smooth and of a light yellow color, and the toes breaking when bent -under. If the skin is thick and tough, and the bill and legs a dark -reddish yellow, rough and hairy, do not buy the goose. It is old, and no -cooking can make it eatable. A goose, from its profusion of feathers, -looks like a large bird when walking about; but when plucked and -prepared for the spit, it will be found very deceptive. It is much more -hollow than a turkey; and, except the breast, there is but little eating -on it. In large families it is usual to have a pair of roast geese, one -not being sufficient. Geese are not good except for roasting, or in a -pie. - -In preparing a goose for cooking, save the giblets for the gravy. After -the goose has been drawn, singed well, washed and wiped, inside and out; -trussed so as to look round and short; make a quantity of stuffing, (as -its hollow body will require a great deal.) For this purpose, parboil -two good sized onions, and a large bunch of green sage. Mince both the -sage and onions, seasoning them with a small salt-spoon of salt, half as -much black pepper, and still less cayenne. Add a hard-boiled egg finely -minced (yolk and white;) the chopped egg giving a nice smoothness to the -sage and onion. If your goose is large, take two chopped eggs. - -To make the stuffing very mild, (if preferred so,) add a handful of -finely grated bread-crumbs; or two or three fine juicy chopped apples. -Fill the body and craw with this stuffing, and secure it with a needle -and thread from falling out. Set the goose before a clear, steady -fire--having a little warm water in the dripping-pan to baste it till -the gravy begins to fall. Keep it well basted all the time it is -roasting. It must be thoroughly done all through. Roast it according to -its size, from an hour and a half to two hours or more. - -Boil the giblets in a sauce-pan by themselves, seasoned with a little -salt and pepper, and having among them a bit of butter dredged with -flour. When done, remove the neck, and retain the heart, liver, and -gizzard, cut into pieces, and served in the gravy, which should be well -skimmed. Also, skim carefully the fat off the gravy in the bottom of the -dripping-pan. Put the two gravies together, and serve them up in a gravy -tureen. To eat with the goose, have plenty of apple-sauce, made of fine -juicy apples, stewed very dry, well sweetened, and flavored with the -grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon; or with some rose-water and -nutmeg stirred in after the sauce is taken from the fire. Rose-water -evaporates in cooking, and should never boil or be kept on the fire. A -_bain marie_, or double kettle, is excellent for stewing fruit; putting -the fruit inside, and the water outside. - -For a family dinner a goose is very good stuffed with well-boiled -potatos, mashed smooth, with plenty of fresh butter or gravy. Sweet -potatos make an excellent stuffing. So do boiled chestnuts, mashed with -butter or gravy. - - -GOOSE PIE.--The old fashioned goose pie made with a standing crust, (the -flour being mixed with boiling water, and therefore unfit for eating,) -is now obsolete. They were generally sent as Christmas presents. Besides -the goose, they contained chickens, pigeons, (all boned,) and various -other things. They had standing sides like an oval wall, covered with a -lid of the same paste, having, on the top, a knob, by which to lift off. -These pies were expected to remain good a week; but generally the gravy -became sour in a few days, even in winter, and however carefully kept -from the air. The following is a receipt to make a fine goose pie for -immediate use, and with a nice eatable paste. - -Take a fine plump young goose, and parboil it, (in as little water as -will cover it,) saving the gravy. Having removed the skin, cut all the -flesh from the bones. Make a nice light short paste, allowing a large -half pound of fresh butter to each quart of flour. For a goose pie you -will require two quarts of flour and one pound of butter. Line a deep -pie-dish with one sheet of paste, reserving the other sheet for the lid, -which should be rolled out thick. Put in the pieces of goose, seasoned -with pepper only, interspersing among it the best part of a smoked -tongue, cut in thick round slices. Make a nice forcemeat into balls, -about the size of a hickory nut, and add them to the filling of the pie; -and some chestnuts boiled and peeled; or some round slices of boiled -sweet potato. Having made a gravy of the giblets stewed, pour that over -the other ingredients, filling the pie well, and heaping it high in the -middle. Add a few bits of fresh butter dredged in flour. Pour in the -gravy, and lay on the top the lid of the pie rolled out thick, -ornamenting the edges handsomely. Cut a cross slit in the top, and fit -into it a flower, or tulip cut out of paste. This pie is for dinner -company, and to be eaten warm. - -You may make a similar pie of a pair of fine ducks, either tame or wild. -Canvas-backs and red necks are excellent for this purpose. To eat with -it, have mashed potato, browned all over with a salamander. - -On the shores of our southern rivers, where canvas-backs and other fine -wild ducks are abundant, a pie affords an agreeable variety to the usual -modes of cooking them. - - -A GIBLET PIE.--Clean, very nicely, the giblets of two geese or four -ducks. Put them into a stew-pan, with a sliced onion; a bunch of -tarragon, or sweet marjoram and sage; half a dozen pepper-corns; and -four or five blades of mace. Add a very little water; cover the pan -closely, and let them stew till the giblets are tender. Then take them -out, and save all the gravy; having strained it from the seasoning -articles. Make a rich paste, and roll it out into two sheets. With one -sheet cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Put in the -giblets--mixing among them a few raw potatos sliced very thin, the -chopped yolks of some hard-boiled eggs, and some bits of butter rolled -in flour. Pour the gravy over the giblets, &c. Cover the pie with the -other sheet of paste, and notch the edges. Bake it brown, and send it to -table hot. - -A pigeon pie may be made in a similar manner: also, a rabbit pie. - - -ROAST DUCKS.--Take a pair of fine fat ducks, and having prepared them -nicely for the spit, put them, for a few minutes, into boiling water to -loosen the skin, which must be peeled entirely off, to have them very -nice and tender. Wash their insides by pouring water through them, and -wipe the outside all over with a dry cloth. Fill the body and craw of -one duck with a seasoning of sage and onion, as for a goose. In case -some of the company should have a dislike to onion, fill the other duck -with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, &c., as for turkey. Place -them before a quick fire, but not so near as to scorch. Roast them well, -basting them all the time. Skim the fat off, and pour over the ducks -their own gravy, mixed with what has been made of the necks, livers, -hearts, and gizzards, stewed in a small sauce-pan with some butter -dredged with flour. Send to table with the ducks either cranberry or -apple sauce, made thick and sweet. - -Let them be thoroughly roasted, which will require from an hour to an -hour and a quarter. - - -WILD DUCKS.--To remove the fishy or sedgy taste so often found in wild -ducks, parboil them with a large carrot, cut in pieces, and placed in -the body of each. When the ducks are half boiled, take out the carrot -and throw it away. It will have imbibed all the unpleasant taste, and -taken it away from the ducks. Then cook them as you please. - - -BOILED DUCK.--Prepare for cooking a fine plump tame duck, and lay it -five or six minutes in warm water. Then put it into a clean large bowl -or deep dish, and pour over it a pint of rich boiling milk, in which has -been melted two table-spoonfuls of nice fresh butter. Let the duck soak -in the milk three hours, or till it has absorbed nearly all the liquid. -Next, dredge the duck well with flour. Boil it in cold water for half an -hour, till tender all through. Have ready a quantity of onion sauce made -with milk and butter, and flavored with powdered mace or nutmeg. Cover -the duck all over with the onion sauce, so as to smother it entirely. -Then send it to table hot. This is a French dish, (_canard bouilli_.) - - -DUCKS AND PEAS.--Stuff a fine plump pair of ducks with potato stuffing, -made of boiled potatos mashed very smooth with fresh butter; or, if for -company, make a fine forcemeat stuffing, as for a turkey. Bake the ducks -in an iron oven or bake-pan; and when nearly done, put in with them a -quart of very young green peas, and a few bits of fresh butter, -seasoning slightly with black pepper. When the peas and ducks are all -quite done, serve them all up on one large dish. - - -FRICASSEED DUCKS.--Half roast a pair of ducks. Then cut them apart, as -for carving. If they are _wild_ ducks, parboil them with a large carrot -(cut to pieces) inside of each, to draw out the fishy or sedgy taste. -Having thrown away the carrot, cut the ducks into pieces, as for -carving. Put them into a clean stew-pan, and season them with pepper and -salt. Mix in a deep dish a very small onion minced fine, a -table-spoonful of minced or powdered tarragon leaves, (for which you may -substitute sage and sweet marjoram, if you cannot procure tarragon,) and -two or three large tomatos, scalded, peeled, and quartered, or two large -table-spoonfuls of thick tomato catchup. Put in, also, two -table-spoonfuls of fresh butter rolled in grated bread-crumbs, and a -glass of port wine, claret, or brandy, with a small tea-spoonful of -powdered mace. Cover the pieces of duck with this mixture, and then add -barely as much water as will keep the whole from burning. Cover the pan -closely, and let the fricassee stew slowly for an hour, or till the -duck, &c., are thoroughly done. - -Venison or lamb cutlets may be fricasseed in this manner. Likewise, tame -fat pigeons, which must previously be split in two. This, also, is a -very nice way of dressing hares or rabbits. - - -TO ROAST CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--Having trussed the ducks, put into each a -thick piece of soft bread that has been soaked in port wine. Place them -before a quick fire and roast them from three quarters to an hour. -Before they go to table, squeeze over each the juice of a lemon or -orange, and serve them up very hot with their own gravy about them. Eat -them with currant jelly. Have ready also, a gravy made by stewing slowly -in a sauce-pan the giblets of the ducks in butter rolled in flour, and -as little water as possible. Serve up this additional gravy in a boat. - - -CANVAS-BACK DUCKS DRESSED PLAIN.--Truss the ducks without washing, but -wipe them inside and out with a clean dry cloth. Roast them before a -rather quick fire for half an hour. Then send them to table hot, upon a -large dish placed on a heater. There must also be heaters under each -plate, and currant jelly on both sides of the table, to mix with the -gravy, on your plate; claret or port wine also, for those who prefer it -as an improvement to the gravy. - - -TO STEW CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--Put the giblets into a sauce-pan with a very -little water, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a very little -salt and cayenne. Let them stew gently to make a gravy, keeping the -sauce-pan covered. In the mean time, half roast the ducks, saving the -gravy that falls from them. Then cut them up, put them into a large -stew-pan, with the gravy (having first skimmed off the fat,) and merely -water enough to keep them from burning. Set the pan over a moderate -fire, and let them stew gently till done. Towards the last, (having -removed the giblets) pour over the ducks the gravy from the small -sauce-pan, and stir in a large glass of port wine, and a glass of -currant jelly. Send them to table as hot as possible. - -Any ducks may be stewed as above. The common wild duck, teal, &c., -should always be parboiled with a large carrot in the body to extract -the fishy or sedgy taste. On tasting this carrot before it is thrown -away, it will be found to have imbibed strongly that disagreeable -flavor. - - -BROILED CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--To eat these ducks with their flavor and -juices in perfection, they should be cooked immediately after killing. -If shot early in the morning, they will be found delicious, if broiled -for breakfast. If killed in the forenoon, let them be on that day's -dinner table. When they can be obtained quite fresh they want nothing to -improve the flavor. Neither do red-necks, or the other water fowl that -are found in such abundance on the shores of the Chesapeake. - -As soon as the ducks have been plucked, singed, drawn, and washed, split -them down the back, (their heads, necks, and legs having been cut off,) -rub with chalk the bars of a very clean gridiron, and set it over a bed -of bright lively wood-coals. This gridiron (and all others) should have -grooved bars, so as to save as much of the gravy as possible. Broil the -ducks well and thoroughly, turning them on both sides. They will -generally be done in half an hour. Dish them in their own gravy. The -flesh should have no redness about it when dished. To half broil them on -the gridiron, and to finish the cooking on a hot plate, set over a -heater on the table, renders the ducks tough, and deadens the natural -taste, for which no made-up sauce can atone. You may lay a few bits of -nice butter on them after they are dished. - - -TERRAPIN DUCKS.--Take a fine large plump duck. Cut it in small pieces, -and stew it in merely as much water as will cover it well, and keep it -from burning. Let it stew gently, and skim it well. When it is done take -it out, and cut all the meat off the bones in little bits. Return the -meat to the stew-pan, and lay it in its own gravy. Add the yolks of half -a dozen hard-boiled eggs, and make them into little balls with beaten -white of egg, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter divided into eight -bits, each bit dredged with flour, the grated yellow rind and juice of a -lemon or orange, and a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg. -Let it stew or simmer gently till it comes to a boil, keeping it -covered. When it has boiled, stir in while hot two beaten yolks of raw -egg, and two large wine glasses of sherry or Madeira. Set it over the -fire again for two or three minutes, keeping it covered. Then serve it -up in a deep dish with a cover. - -For company, you must have two ducks, and a double portion of all the -above ingredients. - - -ROAST FOWLS.--Stuff two fowls with a nice forcemeat, made in the best -manner, or with good sausage meat, if in haste. Another nice stuffing -for roast fowls is boiled chestnuts, stewed in butter, or in nice -drippings. Mushrooms cut up and stewed in a very little butter, make a -fine stuffing for roasted fowls. Secure the stuffing from falling out by -winding a twine or tape round the body of the fowl, or sewing it. Roast -the fowls before a very clear fire, basting them with butter. When the -fowls are done, set them away to be kept warm, while you finish the -gravy, having saved the heart, gizzard, and liver, to enrich it. Skim it -well from the fat and thicken it with a very little browned flour. Send -it to table in a sauce-boat. Serve up with roast fowls, dried peach -sauce, or cranberry. Make all fruit sauces very thick and sweet. If -watery and sour, they seem poor and mean. - -Full-grown fowls require, (at least,) an hour for roasting. If very -large, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. - -Nothing can be done with old tough fowls but to boil them in soup, till -they are reduced to rags. The soup, of course, should be made chiefly of -meat. The fowls will add nothing to its flavor but something to its -consistence. - -Capons are cooked in the same manner as other fowls. They are well worth -their cost. - - -BOILED FOWLS.--Take a fine plump pair of young (but full-grown) fowls, -and prepare them for boiling. Those with white or light yellow legs are -considered the best. Make a nice forcemeat stuffing, and fill their -bodies with it, and fasten the livers and gizzards under the pinions. -For boiled poultry they are not wanted in the gravy. Having trussed the -fowls, and picked and singed them carefully, put them into a large pot -containing equal quantities of boiling water and cold water. This will -make it lukewarm. Let them boil steadily for an hour after the simmering -has commenced, carefully removing the scum. - -Serve them up with egg sauce, celery sauce, parsley sauce, or oyster -sauce--or, with cauliflower or broccoli sauce. - -For boiled fowls, you may make a nice stuffing of fresh oysters, cut in -small pieces, but not minced. Omit the gristle. Mix them with an equal -portion of hard-boiled eggs chopped, but not minced fine. Add plenty of -grated bread-crumbs, and season with powdered mace. Mix in, also, some -bits of fresh butter. Where onions are liked, you may substitute for the -oysters some onions boiled and minced. - -Fowls boil very nicely in a _bain marie_, or double kettle, with the -water outside. They require a longer time, but are excellent when done. -To quicken the boiling of a double kettle, put a handful of salt in the -outside water. - -Small chickens, of course, require a shorter time to cook. - - -PULLED FOWL.--This is a side dish for company. Select a fine tender -fowl, young, fat, full-grown, and of a large kind. When quite done take -it out of the pot, cover it, and set it away till wanted. Then, with a -fork, pull off in flakes all the flesh, (first removing the skin,) and -with a chopper break all the bones, and put them into a stew-pan, adding -two calves' feet split, and the hock of a cold ham, a small bunch of -parsley and sweet marjoram, and a quart of water. Let it boil gently -till reduced to a pint. Then take it out. Have ready, in another -stew-pan, the bits of pulled fowl. Strain the liquor from the bones, -&c., over the fowl, and add a piece of fresh butter, (the size of a -small egg,) rolled in flour, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and -nutmeg, mixed. Mix the whole together, and let the pulled fowl stew in -gravy for ten minutes. Serve it hot. - -A turkey may be cooked in this manner, and will make a fine dish. For a -turkey allow four calves' feet. - - -FRIED CHICKENS.--Cut up a pair of nice young fowls, flatten and quarter -them, and season them with cayenne and powdered mace, rubbing it in -well. Put some lard into a heated frying pan over the fire, or if you -have plenty of nice fresh butter use that in preference. When the lard -or butter boils, and has been skimmed, put in the pieces of chicken, and -fry them brown on one side. Then turn them, and sprinkle them thickly -all over with chopped parsley, or sweet marjoram, and fry them brown on -the other side. You may fry with them a few thin slices of cold ham. -Before serving them up drain off the lard you have used for frying. - -When there is no dislike to onions, they may be fried nicely with boiled -onions cut in rings, and laid over the pieces of chicken. - - -BROILED CHICKENS.--These are very dry and tasteless if merely split and -broiled plain, which is the usual way. It seems to be supposed by many -that no chicken is too poor for broiling, and therefore it is often -difficult to get more than two or three small mouthfuls of flesh off -their bones. On the contrary, poor chickens are not worth broiling or -cooking in any way. To have broiled chickens good, choose those that are -fat and fleshy. Having cleaned them well, and washed them, and wiped -them dry, split and divide them into four quarters; flattening the bones -with a steak mallet. They will be much improved by stewing or boiling in -a little water for ten minutes. Then draining them and saving the liquor -for gravy. Boil in this the neck, feet, heart, gizzard and liver. Strain -it after boiling, and save the liver to mash into the gravy. Season the -gravy with grated carrot and minced parsley, or sweet marjoram, and a -little cayenne, adding a small piece of fresh butter dredged in flour. -Have ready plenty of fine bread-crumbs, seasoned with nutmeg, and in -another pan four yolks of eggs well beaten. The quarters of the chickens -having become quite cold, dip each one first into the egg, and then into -the crumbs. Set the gridiron over a clear fire, and broil the chicken -well, first laying down the inside. Having prepared the gravy as above, -give it a short boil, then send it to table in a sauce-boat with the -chickens. - -The excellence of chickens broiled in this way amply repays the trouble. -This is a breakfast dish. - -Serve up with the broiled chicken a dish of mashed potato cakes, browned -with a salamander or red-hot shovel. - - -FRICASSEED CHICKEN.--Have ready a pair of fine plump full-grown fowls -nicely prepared for cooking. Strip off all the skin, and carve the fowls -neatly. Reserve all the white meat and best pieces for the fricassee, -putting them in a dish by themselves, and save all the inferior pieces -or black meat to make the gravy. Season with pepper and salt slightly, -and add a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, and four small bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour. Put the black meat, herbs, &c., into a -stew-pan. Pour in a pint and a half of water, and stew it gently, -skimming off every particle of fat. When reduced to less than one half, -strain the gravy. Arrange the pieces of white meat in a very clean -stew-pan, and pour over them the gravy of the inferior parts; add mace, -nutmeg, and a little cayenne. Mix into half a pint of boiling cream, a -large tea-spoonful of arrow-root, and shake the pan briskly round, while -adding the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, mixed with more cream, (two -table-spoonfuls.) Shake it gently over the fire till it begins to simmer -again, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle in an instant. -Watch it carefully. - -This is a fine side-dish for company. There is no better way of -fricasseeing fowls. A fricassee is not a fry, but a stew. - -Accompany this fricassee with a dish of asparagus tops, green peas, or -lima beans. Also, mashed potatos. - - -CHICKENS STEWED WHOLE.--Having trussed a pair of fine fat young fowls or -chickens, (with the liver under one wing, and the gizzard under the -other,) fill the inside with large oysters, secured from falling out by -fastening tape round the bodies of the fowls. Put them into a tin butter -kettle with a close cover. Set the kettle into a larger pot or saucepan -of boiling water, (which must not reach quite to the top of the kettle,) -and place it over the fire. Keep it boiling till the fowls are well -done, which they should be in about an hour after they begin to simmer. -Occasionally take off the lid to remove the scum, and be sure to put it -on again closely. As the water in the outside pot boils away, replenish -it with more _hot_ water from a tea-kettle that is kept boiling hard. -When the fowls are stewed quite tender, remove them from the fire; take -from them all the gravy that is about them, and put it into a small -sauce-pan, covering closely the kettle in which they were stewed, and -leaving the fowls in it to keep warm. Then add to the gravy two -table-spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, two table-spoonfuls of -chopped oysters, the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs minced fine, half a -grated nutmeg, four blades of mace, and a small tea-cup of cream. Boil -this gravy about five minutes. Put the fowls on a dish and send them to -table, accompanied by the gravy in a sauce-boat. This is an excellent -way of cooking chickens. They do well in large _bain marie_. - - -FOWL AND OYSTERS.--Take a fine fat young fowl, and having trussed it for -boiling, fill the body and craw with oysters, seasoned with a few blades -of mace, tying it round with twine to keep them in. Put the fowl into a -tall strait-sided jar, and cover it closely. Then place the jar in a -kettle of water, set it over the fire, and let it boil at least an hour -and a half after the water has come to a hard boil. When it is done take -out the fowl, and keep it hot while you prepare the gravy, of which you -will find a quantity in the jar. Transfer this gravy to a saucepan, -enrich it with the beaten yolks of two eggs mixed with three -table-spoonfuls of cream, and add a large table-spoonful of fresh butter -rolled in flour. If you cannot get cream, you must have a double portion -of butter. Set this sauce over the fire, stirring it well, and when it -comes to a boil, add twenty-five oysters. In five minutes take it off, -put it into a sauce-boat, and serve it up with the fowl, which cooked in -this manner will be found excellent. - -Clams may be substituted for oysters, but they should be removed from -the fowl before it is sent to table. Their flavor being drawn out in the -gravy, the clams themselves will be found tough, tasteless, and not -proper to be eaten. - - -FRENCH CHICKEN PIE.--Parboil a pair of full-grown, but fat and tender -chickens. Then take the giblets, and put them into a small sauce-pan -with as much of the water in which the chickens were parboiled as will -cover them well, and stew them for gravy; add a bunch of sweet herbs and -a few blades of mace. When the chickens are cold, dissect them as for -carving. Line a deep dish with thick puff paste, and put in the pieces -of chicken. Take a nice thin slice of cold ham, or two slices of smoked -tongue, and pound them one at a time in a marble mortar, pounding also -the livers of the chickens, and the yolks of half a dozen hard-boiled -eggs. Make this forcemeat into balls, and intersperse them among the -pieces of chicken. Add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour, and -then (having removed the giblets) pour on the gravy. Cover the pie with -a lid of puff-paste, rolled out thick; and notch the edges handsomely; -placing a knot or ornament of paste on the centre of the top. Set it -directly into a well-heated oven, and bake it brown. It should be eaten -warm. - -This pie will be greatly improved by a pint of mushrooms, cut into -pieces. Also by a small tea-cup of cream. - -Any pie of poultry, pigeons, or game may be made in this manner. - - -CHICKEN GUMBO.--Cut up a young fowl as if for a fricassee. Put into a -stew-pan a large table-spoonful of fresh butter, mixed with a -tea-spoonful of flour, and an onion finely minced. Brown them over the -fire, and then add a quart of water, and the pieces of chicken, with a -large quarter of a peck of ochras, (first sliced thin, and then -chopped,) and a salt-spoon of salt. Cover the pan, and let the whole -stew together, till the ochras are entirely dissolved, and the fowl -thoroughly done. If it is a very young chicken, do not put it in at -first; as half an hour will be sufficient to cook it. Serve it up hot in -a deep dish. - -You may add to the ochras an equal quantity of tomatos cut small. If you -use tomatos, no water will be necessary, as their juice will supply a -sufficient liquid. - - -[D]FILET GUMBO.--Cut up a pair of fine plump fowls into pieces, as when -carving. Lay them in a pan of cold water, till all the blood is drawn -out. Put into a pot, two large table-spoonfuls of lard, and set it over -the fire. When the lard has come to a boil, put in the chickens with an -onion finely minced. Dredge them well with flour, and season slightly -with salt and pepper; and, if you like it, a little chopped marjoram. -Pour on it two quarts of boiling water. Cover it, and let it simmer -slowly for three hours. Then stir into it two heaped tea-spoonfuls of -sassafras powder. Afterwards, let it stew five or six minutes longer, -and then send it to table in a deep dish; having a dish of boiled rice -to be eaten with it by those who like rice. - - [D] Pronounced Fee_lay_. - -This gumbo will be much improved by stewing with it three or four thin -slices of cold boiled ham, in which case omit the salt in the seasoning. -Whenever cold ham is an ingredient in any dish, no other salt is -required. - -A dozen fresh oysters and their liquor, added to the stew about half an -hour before it is taken up, will also be an improvement. - -If you cannot conveniently obtain sassafras-powder, stir the gumbo -frequently with a stick of sassafras root. - -This is a genuine southern receipt. Filet gumbo may be made of any sort -of poultry, or of veal, lamb, venison, or kid. - - -TOMATO CHICKEN.--Take four small chickens or two large ones, and cut -them up as for carving. Put them into a stew-pan, with one or two large -slices of cold boiled ham cut into little bits; eight or ten large -tomatos; an onion sliced; a bunch of pot-herbs,(cut up;) a small green -pepper, (the seeds and veins first extracted;) half a dozen blades of -mace; a table-spoonful of lard or of fresh butter, rolled in flour; or a -handful of grated bread-crumbs. Add a tumbler or half a pint of water. -Cover the sauce-pan closely with a cloth beneath the lid; set it on hot -coals, or over a moderate fire; and let it stew slowly till the chickens -are thoroughly done, and the tomatos entirely dissolved. Turn it out -into a deep dish. - -Rabbits may be stewed in this manner. Also, veal steaks, cut thin and -small. - - -TURKEY AND CHICKEN PATTIES.--Take the white part of some cold turkey or -chicken, and mince it very fine. Mince also some cold boiled ham or -smoked tongue, and then mix the turkey and ham together. Add the yolks -of some hard-boiled eggs, grated or minced; a very little cayenne; and -some powdered mace and nutmeg. Moisten the whole with cream or fresh -butter. Have ready some puff-paste shells, that have been baked empty in -patty-pans. Place them on a large dish, and fill them with the mixture. - -Cold fillet of veal minced, and mixed with chopped ham, and grated yolk -of egg, and seasoned as above will make very good patties. - - -CHICKEN RICE PUDDING.--Parboil a fine fowl, and cut it up. Boil, till -soft and dry, a pint of rice; and while warm, mix with it a large -table-spoonful of fresh butter. Beat four eggs very light; and then mix -them, gradually, with the rice. Spread a coating of the fresh butter, -&c., over the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Place on it the pieces of -the parboiled fowl, with a little of the liquid in which it was -boiled--seasoned with powdered mace and nutmeg. Add some bits of fresh -butter rolled in flour and a little cream. Cover the dish closely with -the remainder of the rice; set the pudding immediately into the oven and -bake it brown. - -Cold chicken or turkey, cooked the day before, may be used for this -purpose. The pudding may be improved by the addition of a few very -thin, small slices of cold ham, or smoked tongue. - - -RICE CROQUETTES.--Boil half a pound of rice till it becomes quite soft -and dry. Then mix with it two table spoonfuls of rich (but not strong) -grated cheese, a small tea-spoonful of powdered mace, and sufficient -fresh butter to moisten it. Mince very fine, six table-spoonfuls of the -white part of cold chicken or turkey, the soft parts of six large -oysters, and a few sprigs of tarragon or parsley; add a grated nutmeg, -and the yellow rind of a lemon. Mix the whole well, moistening it with -cream or white wine. Take of the prepared rice, a portion about the size -of an egg, flatten it, and put into the centre a dessert-spoonful of the -mixture; close the rice round it as you would the paste round a -dumpling-apple. Then form it into the shape of an egg. Brush it over -with some beaten yolk of egg and then dredge it with pounded crackers. -In this way make up the whole into oval balls. Have ready, in a -sauce-pan over the fire, a pound of boiling lard. Into this throw the -croquettes, two at a time, so as to brown them. Let them brown for a few -minutes; then take them out with a perforated skimmer. Drain them from -the lard, and serve them up hot, garnished with curled parsley. - - -CHICKEN POT-PIE.--Cut up and parboil a pair of large fowls, seasoning -them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. You may add some small slices of -cold ham; in which case use _no salt_, as the ham will make it salt -enough. Or you may put in some pieces of the lean of fresh pork. You may -prepare a suet-paste; but for a chicken pot-pie it is best to make the -paste of butter, which should be fresh, and of the best quality. Allow -to each quart of flour, a small half-pound of butter. There should be -enough for a great deal of paste. Line the sides of the pot, two-thirds -up, with paste. Put in the chickens, with the liquor in which they were -parboiled. You may add some sliced potatos. Intersperse the pieces of -chicken with layers of paste in square slices. Then cover the whole with -a lid of paste, not fitting very closely. Make a cross-slit in the top, -and boil the pie about an hour or more. - -Instead of ham, you may add some clams to the chicken, omitting salt in -the seasoning, as the clams will salt it quite enough. - - -CHICKEN CURRY.--Having skinned a pair of fine chickens, cut them into -six pieces each, that is, two wings, two pieces of the breast, and two -legs cut off at the joint. Put into a stew-pan two boiled onions -chopped, and four ounces or four table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Shake -the pan till the contents begin to simmer; then add four table-spoonfuls -of curry-powder and mix it well in; also, four table-spoonfuls of -grated cocoa-nut. Mix all well in the stew-pan, and then put in the -pieces of chicken. Cover the pan, and let all stew moderately for half -an hour, stirring it round occasionally; and, if getting too dry, add a -little hot water. Also, towards the last, the grated yellow rind of a -lemon and the juice. It should stew till the chicken is quite tender, -and till the flesh parts easily from the bones. Serve it up hot, in a -covered dish, and send half a pound of boiled rice in a separate dish, -_uncovered_. This is a dish for company. - -Young ducks, or a young hen turkey, or a pair of rabbits, may be cooked -in the same manner. Also, lamb or veal. - -For curried oysters, take a hundred large fresh ones, and proceed as -above. - - -RICE PIE.--Pick clean a quart of rice, and wash it well through two or -three waters. Tie it in a cloth, put it into a pot of boiled milk, and -boil it till perfectly soft. Then drain and press it till as dry as -possible, and mix with it two ounces of fresh butter. Take a small tin -butter-kettle; wet the inside, put in the rice, and stand it in a cool -place till quite cold. Then turn it carefully out of the kettle, (of -which it will retain the form,) rub it over with the beaten yolk of an -egg, and set it in an oven till lightly browned. Cut out from the top of -the mass of rice an oval lid, about two inches from the edge, so as to -leave a flat rim or border all round. Then excavate the mould of rice, -leaving a standing crust all round and at the bottom, about two inches -thick. Have ready some hot stewed oysters or birds, or brown or white -fricassee. Fill up the pie with it, adding the gravy. Lay on the lid, -and decorate it with sprigs of green curled parsley, stuck in all round -the crack where the lid is put on. - -This pie may be filled with curried chicken. - - -COUNTRY CAPTAIN.--This is an East India dish, and a very easy -preparation of curry. The term "country captain," signifies a captain of -the native troops, (or Sepoys,) in the pay of England; their own country -being India, they are there called generally the country troops. -Probably this dish was first introduced at English tables by a Sepoy -officer. - -Having well boiled a fine full-grown fowl, cut it up as for carving. -Have ready two large onions boiled and sliced. Season the pieces of -chicken with curry powder or turmeric; rubbed well into them, all over. -Fry them with the onion, in plenty of lard or fresh butter, and when -well-browned they are done enough. Take them up with a perforated -skimmer, and drain through its holes. It will be a great improvement to -put in, at the beginning, three or four table-spoonfuls of finely grated -cocoa-nut. This will be found an advantage to any curry. - -Serve up, in another dish, a pint of rice, well picked, and washed -clean in two or three cold waters. Boil the rice in plenty of water, -(leaving the skillet or sauce-pan uncovered;) and when it is done, drain -it very dry, and set it on a dish before the fire, tossing it up with -two forks, one in each hand, so as to separate all the grains, leaving -each one to stand for itself. All rice for the dinner table should be -cooked in this manner. Persons accustomed to rice never eat it watery or -clammy, or lying in a moist mass. Rice should never be covered, either -while boiling, or when dished. - -We recommend this "country captain." - - -CURRIED EGGS.--Boil six fresh eggs till they are hard enough for salad, -and then set them away to get cold. Mix together, in a stew-pan, three -ounces (or three large table-spoonfuls) of nice fresh butter, and three -dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder. Shake them together for five minutes -over a clear but moderate fire. Then throw in two boiled onions finely -minced, and let them cook, gently, till quite soft, adding three ounces -or three large spoonfuls of grated cocoa-nut. Cut the eggs into rather -thick slices. Put them into the mixture, with a small tea-cupful of -thick cream, or if you cannot obtain cream, with two more spoonfuls of -butter dredged with flour. Let the whole simmer together, but when it -approaches coming to a boil, take it immediately off the fire and serve -it up hot. This is a nice side-dish for company. - - -PARTRIDGES PEAR FASHION--(_French dish._)--Your partridges should be -fine and fat, and of the same size. For a large dish have three or four. -Truss them tight and round, and rub over them a little salt and cayenne, -mixed. Cut off one of the legs and leave the other on, fill them with a -nice forcemeat. Make a rich paste of flour, butter, and beaten egg, -using as little water as possible. Be sure to make enough of paste to -cover each partridge entirely over, and roll it out evenly, and rather -thick than thin. Put a sufficient portion of paste nicely round each -partridge, pressing it closely and smoothly with your hand, and forming -it into the shape of a large pear. Leave one leg sticking out at the top -to resemble the stem, having cut off the foot. Set them in a pan, and -bake them in a dutch oven. In the mean time, make in a small sauce-pan, -a rich brown gravy of the livers, and other trimmings of the partridges, -and some drippings of roast veal or roasted poultry. It will be better -still if you reserve one or two small partridges to cut up, and stew for -the gravy. Season it with a little salt and cayenne. When it has boiled -long enough to be very thick and rich, take it off, strain it, and put -the liquid into a clean sauce-pan. Add the juice of a large orange, made -very sweet with powdered white sugar. Set it over the fire, and when it -comes to a boil, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Let it boil two -or three minutes longer; then take it off, and keep it hot till the -partridges and their paste are thoroughly well baked. When done, stand -up the partridges in a deep dish, and serve up the gravy in a -sauce-boat. Ornament the partridge-pears by sticking some orange leaves -into the end that represents the stalk. This is a nice and handsome side -dish, of French origin. - -Pigeons and quails may be dressed in this manner. - - -SALMI OF PARTRIDGES--(_French dish._)--Having covered two large or four -small partridges with very thin slices of fat cold ham, secured with -twine, roast them; but see that they are not too much done. Remove the -ham, skin the partridges, cut them into pieces, and let them get quite -cold. Partridges that have been roasted the preceding day are good for -this purpose. Cut off all the meat from the bones, season it with a -little cayenne, and put it into a stew-pan. Mix together three -table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, a glass of excellent wine, (either red or -white,) and the grated peel and juice of an orange. Pour this gravy over -the partridges, and let them stew in it during ten minutes; then add the -beaten yolk of an egg, and stew it about three or four minutes longer. -All the time it is stewing, continue to shake or move the pan over the -fire. Serve it up hot. - - -ROASTED PARTRIDGES, PHEASANTS, AND QUAILS.--Make a stuffing of fat bacon -finely minced, and boiled chestnuts or grated sweet potatoe boiled, -mashed, and seasoned with pepper only. Fill the birds with this. Cover -them with thin slices of bacon, and wrap them well in young vine leaves. -Roast them well, and serve them up in the bacon and vine leaves, to be -taken off when they come to table. For company, have orange sauce to eat -with them. If you roast pigeons, &c., without a covering of bacon and -vine leaves, do them with egg and bread-crumbs all over. - -If these birds have a bitter taste when cooked, do not eat them. It is -produced by their feeding on laurel berries in winter, when their food -is scarce. Laural berries are poisonous, and people have died from -eating birds that have fed on them. - - -BIRDS WITH MUSHROOMS.--Take two dozen reed-birds, (or other nice small -birds,) and truss them as if for roasting. Put into each a button -mushroom, of which you should have a heaping pint after the stalks are -all removed. Put the birds and the remaining mushrooms into a stew-pan. -Season them with a very little salt and pepper, and add either a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter (divided into four, and slightly rolled in -flour,) or a pint of rich cream. If cream is not plenty, you may use -half butter and half cream, well mixed together. Cover the stew-pan -closely, and set it over a moderate fire, to stew gently till the birds -and mushrooms are thoroughly done and tender all through. Do not open -the lid to stir the stew, but give the pan, occasionally, a hard shake. -Dip in hot water a large slice of toast with the crust trimmed off. -When the birds are done lay them on the toast with the mushrooms around. - -If you cannot get button-mushrooms, divide large ones into quarters. - -Plovers are very nice stewed with mushrooms. - - -BIRDS IN A GROVE--(_French dish._)--Having roasted some reed-birds, -larks, plovers, or any other small birds, such as are usually eaten, -mash some potatos with butter and cream. Spread the mashed potato -thickly over the bottom, sides, and edges of a deep dish. Nick or crimp -the border of potatoe that goes round the edge, or scollop it with a tin -cutter. You may, if you choose, brown it by holding over it a -salamander, or a red-hot shovel. Then lay the roasted birds in the -middle of the dish, and stick round them and among them, very thickly, a -sufficient number of sprigs of curled or double parsley. - - -THATCHED HOUSE PIE--(_French dish._)--Rub the inside of a deep dish with -two ounces of fresh butter, and spread over it two ounces of vermicelli. -Then line the dish with puff-paste. Have ready some birds seasoned with -powdered nutmeg, and a very little salt and pepper. Place them with the -breast downward. They will be much improved by putting into each a -mushroom or an oyster chopped fine. Lay them on the paste. Add some -gravy of roast veal, (cold gravy saved from veal roasted the preceding -day will do very well,) and cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste. Bake -it in a moderate oven, and when done, turn it out _carefully_ upon a -flat dish, and send it to table. The vermicelli, which was originally at -the bottom, will now be at the top, covering the paste like thatch upon -a roof. Trim off the edge, so as to look nicely. You may, if you choose, -use a larger quantity of vermicelli. The yellow sort will be best for -this purpose. - - -BIRDS PREPARED FOR LARDING.--Cut a thin slice of fresh veal, and fill -the bird with it, adding a bit of fat bacon. Tie a string round the body -to keep in the stuffing, and roast the bird head downward. The gravy of -the meat will diffuse a pleasant taste all through the bird. - -After being well roasted, let it get cold, and then lard it all over the -breast with lardons or regular slips of fat bacon, put in with a larding -needle, and left standing in rows. It is more easy to lard poultry or -game when cold, rather than warm. Lardons should be set very close and -evenly. - - -BIRD DUMPLINGS.--Take a large tender beef steak, trim off all the fat, -and remove the bone. Make a large sheet of nice suet paste. Lay the beef -steak upon it, seasoned with pepper and a very little salt. In the -centre of the meat place either a partridge, a quail, a plover, or any -nice game, or three or four reed-birds--season with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Add some bits of excellent fresh butter, dredged with flour. -Inclose the birds completely in the steak, so that the game flavor may -pervade the whole. Close the crust over all, so as to form a large -dumpling. Tie it in a cloth. Put it into a pot of fast-boiling water, -and boil it well, turning it several times with a fork. Dish it very -hot. - -If game is not convenient, a fine tame fat pigeon may be substituted. - - -TO ROAST WOODCOCKS OR SNIPES.--Be very careful in plucking these to pull -out the feathers as carefully and handle them as lightly as possible; -for the skin is very easily torn or broken. Do not draw them, for -epicures have decided, that the trail, (as they call the intestines,) is -the most delicious part of the bird, and should by all means be saved -for eating. Having wiped the outside carefully with a soft cloth, truss -them with the head under the wing, and the bill laid along upon the -breast. Keep the legs bent from the knees, retaining that posture by -means of a splinter skewer. Suspend the birds to a bird-spit, with their -feet downward. Melt some fresh butter in the dripping-pan, and baste -them with it, having first dredged the birds with flour. Before the -trail begins to drop, (which it will do as soon as they are well -heated,) lay a thick round of very nice toast, (with the crust pared -off,) buttered on both sides, and placed in the dripping-pan beneath, so -as to catch the trail as it falls; allowing a slice of toast to each -bird, with the trail spread equally over it. Continue the basting, -letting the butter fall back from them into the basting spoon. When the -birds are done, which will be in less than half an hour at a brisk -fire--carefully transfer the toasts to a very hot dish; place the birds -upon them, and pour some gravy round the toast. - -Snipes require less cooking than woodcocks. These birds are very -fashionable; but we do not think either of them superlative. They seldom -appear except at supper parties. - - -PLOVERS.--This is a very nice bird, with a peculiar and pleasant flavor. -They abound near our large bays and estuaries in the vicinity of the -ocean. There are two sorts, the green plover and the gray. Roast them -plain; basting them only with butter. Or fill them with a forcemeat, and -go entirely over the outside, first with beaten egg, and then roll each -plover in finely grated bread-crumbs. - -If very fat, stew them plain in butter rolled in flour. Then serve them -up in their own gravy, enriched with a beaten egg. They make a nice -breakfast dish, either roasted or stewed. And are excellent in pies. - - -REED BIRDS.--Reed birds and rice birds are the same. They are very -small, (only a mouthful on each side of the breast,) but very delicious, -and _immensely fat_ in the summer and autumn. They are brought to market -with a lump of fat skewered on the outside, and are sold by the dozen -strung on a stick like cherries. - -To cook them, roast them on a bird-spit, basting with their own fat, as -it drips. A nice way for retaining the whole flavor is to tie each bird -closely in a vine leaf, and bake them in a dutch oven. Or wrap them in -double vine leaves, and roast them in the ashes of a wood fire. Remove -the vine leaves before the birds are dished. - - -ROASTED PIGEONS.--Take fine fat _tame_ pigeons, and clean and truss them -nicely. Four pigeons, at least, are requisite to make a dish. Prepare a -stuffing or forcemeat of finely minced veal, and an equal quantity of -cold-boiled ham, seasoned with powdered mace and a very little cayenne. -Also, two slices of bread and butter soaked in as much milk as they will -absorb. Fill their bodies with this, (tying a string round to keep it -in,) and roast the pigeons till thoroughly done; basting with fresh -butter or lard. - -Or you may stuff the pigeons with chopped mushrooms, seasoned with a -little cayenne, and putting into each a piece of fresh butter rolled in -flour. - -Or you may stuff them with sweet potatos, boiled well, and mashed with -plenty of fresh butter. Or with chestnuts, boiled, peeled, and mashed -with butter. - -Wild pigeons are generally too poor to roast. In places where they -abound, it has been found very profitable to catch them in nets, clip -their wings, and put them into inclosures, feeding them well with corn -so as to make them fat. They will then bring as high a price as tame -pigeons. - - - - -SAUCES. - - -MELTED BUTTER.--_For Sauces._--This is frequently called Drawn Butter. -For this purpose none should be used but fresh butter of the very best -quality. It is usually sent to table with boiled fish and boiled -poultry. Also, with boiled mutton, lamb, and veal. It is never served up -with any thing roasted, fried or broiled. Numerous sauces are made with -melted butter. If mixed with too much flour and water, and not enough of -butter, it will be very poor, particularly if the water is in too large -proportions. To prepare it properly, allow a quarter of a pound of nice -butter, to a heaped table-spoonful of flour. Mix the butter and flour -thoroughly, _before_ it goes on the fire. Then add to it four large -table-spoonfuls of milk, or hot water, well mixed in. Hold it over the -fire in a small sauce-pan, kept for the purpose. One lined with what is -called porcelain or enamel is best. Take care there is no blaze where -the sauce-pan is held. Cover it, and shake it over the fire till it -boils. Then having skimmed it, add three or four hard-boiled eggs -chopped small, and give it one more boil up; or season it with any other -ingredient with which you wish to distinguish the sauce. - - -CLARIFIED BUTTER.--For this purpose use none but the very best fresh -butter, such as is made in summer, when the cows are well pastured. Cut -up the butter, put it into an enameled or porcelain stew-pan, and melt -it gently over a clear and moderate fire. When it simmers, skim it -thoroughly, draw it from the fire, and let it stand five minutes, that -the milk or sediment may sink to the bottom. Then pour it clear from the -sediment through a muslin strainer, or a fine clean hair sieve. Transfer -to jars with close covers, and keep them in a cool dry place. If well -prepared, and originally very good, this butter will answer for sauces, -stews, &c., and continue good a long time. In France, where they do not -_salt_ any butter, large quantities are melted in this way for winter -use. - - -COLORING FOR SAUCES.--_For Pink Sauce._ Take a few chips of red alkanet -root, (to be had at the druggist's.) Pick it clean, and tie it in a very -thin muslin bag. Put the alkanet into the mixture, and let it infuse in -the boiling drawn butter. It will communicate a beautiful pink color, -which you may heighten, by pressing the bag a little. When done, take -out the bag, and stir the alkanet color evenly through the sauce. The -alkanet has no taste, and is very cheap. Beet juice will color a -tolerable red. - -_For Green Sauce._--Pound some fresh spinach leaves, till you extract a -tea-cup or more of the clear green juice. Stir it into the melted butter -while boiling. - -_For Yellow Sauce._--Tie up a very little turmeric powder in a muslin -bag. Let it boil in the butter. When done, take it out of the sauce-pan, -and stir the yellow coloring evenly through the sauce. - -_For White Sauce._--Make this with cream instead of milk. - -_For Brown Sauce._--Stir in plenty of French mustard. - -_For Wine Sauce._--Stir in, just before you take the sauce from the -fire, a large wine-glass or more of _very good_ white wine, and grate in -half a large nutmeg, adding the grated yellow rind, and the juice of a -lemon. The wine must be of excellent quality, otherwise it will give a -bad taste to the sauce. - - -WHITE THICKENING--(_French Roux._)--Cut up a quarter of a pound of the -best fresh butter, and put it into a well tinned or enameled sauce-pan. -Set it over a moderate fire, and melt it slowly, shaking it round -frequently, and taking care to skim it well. When no more scum appears -on the surface, let it settle a few minutes; then pour it off from the -sediment at the bottom. Wash the sauce-pan or get another clean one. -Return the melted butter to it, and set it again over the fire. Then -dredge in gradually sufficient sifted flour to make it very thick and -smooth, stirring it well after each addition of flour. Do not allow it -to brown in the slightest degree, but keep it perfectly white to the -last; simmering, but not actually boiling, and take care that there is -no smoke about the fire. - -To thicken white sauces, or soups, stir in a table-spoonful or two of -this roux, pronounced _roo_. In French cooking it passes for cream. - -Browned thickening is made in the same manner; but with butter and -browned flour, and is used for brown soups and gravies. - - -BROWNING.--This is to enrich the taste and improve the color of gravies, -stews, and soups. Mix a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar with -two ounces of fine fresh butter; and, having stirred them well together, -put them into a sauce-pan over the fire, and simmer till it begins to -froth; then diminish the heat a little. When its color becomes a fine -dark brown, add two glasses of port wine, and three or four blades of -mace, powdered. When it comes to a boil, take it off, and stir it into -whatever you intend to color. - -Another browning is mushroom catchup, or walnut catchup. They -communicate a slightly acid taste. So also does French mustard. Stir it -in at the last. Its tarragon flavor is very generally liked. - - -BROWNED FLOUR.--Sift some fine flour, spread it on a large dish, or -clean tin-pan. Place it before the fire, so as to brown but not to -scorch or burn. It will color first at the edges; therefore watch it, -and keep it evenly mixed with the white flour from the centre. When all -is nicely browned, set it to cool, and then put it away for use in a -large clean bottle or jar, well corked. Flour may be browned in an oven, -after baking is over, taking care to stir it well.--Have two dredging -boxes. One for browned flour and one for white. It is convenient also to -have dredging-boxes for powdered herbs. The cost of these boxes is very -trifling, and it saves time and trouble to have things ready when -wanted. A small sieve for powdered white sugar is indispensable. - - -LOBSTER SAUCE.--This sauce is for fresh salmon or turbot, or -sheep's-head fish. Also for salmon-trout, blue-fish, or the lake -white-fish. - -Put a large hen lobster into a hard-boiling pot of highly-salted water, -that the animal may die immediately. Continue the boiling with a steady -heat, and in about three quarters, or an hour, the lobster will be done. -When cold, extract all the meat from the shell, and cut it into small -bits. Pound the coral, or red substance, in a marble mortar, with some -fresh butter, or plenty of salad oil; and a little cayenne. Add the -coral to the cut-up lobster, and put the whole into a stew-pan, with -some powdered mace and nutmeg, and a large table-spoonful of sweet oil. -Divide into four bits a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, each bit -rolled in flour. If your butter is not fresh and very good, omit it -entirely and substitute a larger quantity of oil. As bad butter spoils -every thing, never on any account, use it. Set the sauce-pan over the -fire, and let it boil up once. Then take it off, and while very hot, -stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. - -Crab sauce is made in the same manner. Prawn sauce also. - - -SHRIMP SAUCE.--Shrimps are the smallest shell-fish of the lobster -species. Put them into salted boiling water. They are done when they -have turned entirely red. When cold, pull off the heads, and peel off -the shells from the bodies; or _squeeze_ out the meat with your fingers. -Have ready some nice drawn butter, and thicken it with the shrimps, -either chopped or whole. Season the sauce with mace or nutmeg powdered, -and give it one boil up. Shrimp sauce is eaten with salmon and other -fine fish. - - -PICKLED SHRIMPS.--Having boiled, in salted water, three quarts or more -of shrimps, and taken them from the shells, boil two quarts of the best -cider vinegar, and season it well with blades of mace and pepper-corns, -and pour it hot on the shrimps, in a stone jar. Cork the jar, and seal -the cork with the usual red cement for pickle jars: a mixture of -one-third beeswax with two-thirds powdered rosin, and some fine -brickdust, all melted together. - - -OYSTER SAUCE.--Take a pint of the liquor of _fresh_ oysters, and strain -it into a sauce-pan. If your oysters are salt, and you can get no -others, boil a pint of milk instead of the oyster liquor, seasoning with -powdered nutmeg and mace, and enriching it with fresh butter dredged -with flour. When it has come to a boil, put in the oysters (having -removed from each the gristle, or hard part.) Let them simmer, but take -them from the fire without letting them come to a boil, which will -shrivel them, and render them tough and tasteless. A new fashion is to -season oyster sauce with the grated yellow rind and juice of a fresh -lemon. Others stir in a glass of sherry or Madeira. If you use wine or -lemon, you must not make the sauce with milk, as it will curdle. Use in -this case the oyster liquor, if it is fresh, thickened well with finely -grated bread-crumbs. The small, highly-flavored oysters, abounding on -the coast of New England, are excellent for sauce, or soups. - - -CLAM SAUCE.--Make this of half milk and half clam liquor, seasoned with -whole mace, and whole pepper. Use only the soft part of the clams, cut -up small, and simmer them from the beginning; adding bits of butter -dredged all over with flour Clams require longer cooking than oysters. - - -EGG SAUCE.--Boil four eggs from eight to twelve minutes. Then lay them -in a pan of fresh water, and let them remain till quite cold. Peel off -the shells, and take out the eggs. Chop the yolks and whites separately; -mix them, lightly, into half a pint of melted fresh butter, made in the -proportion of a quarter of a pound of butter to two large -table-spoonfuls of flour, and four of milk and hot water. Add some -powdered mace, or nutmeg. Egg sauce is eaten with boiled fish and -poultry. - -Instead of milk or water, you can use for melted butter, some of the -water in which chicken or turkey was boiled, or some veal gravy. - - -CELERY SAUCE.--Split and cut up into short slips a bunch of celery, -having taken off the green leaves from the tops. The celery must have -been well washed, and laid an hour in cold water. Take a pint of milk, -and cut up in it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter that has been well -dredged with flour. Set it over the fire in a sauce-pan, and add the -celery gradually; also three or four blades of mace broken up. Boil all -slowly together, till the celery is quite soft and tender, but not -dissolved. The green tops of the celery, (strewed in, when it begins to -simmer,) will improve the flavor. Celery sauce is served up with boiled -turkey, boiled fowls, and with any sort of fresh fish, boiled or fried. - - -MINT SAUCE.--This is only used for roast lamb in the spring. When the -lambs are grown into sheep, the mint is too old for sauce. But they -harmonize very pleasantly when both are young. - -Take a large bunch of fine fresh green mint, that has been washed well. -Strip the leaves from the stems, and mince them small. Put it into a -pint bowl, and mix with it gradually some of the best cider vinegar. -This sauce must not be the least liquid, but as thick as horse-radish -sauce or thicker. Make it very sweet, with the best brown sugar. Mix it -well, and transfer to a small tureen, or a little deep dish with a -tea-spoon in it. Serve it up always with roast lamb, putting a -tea-spoonful on the rim of your plate. - -A quart or more of mint sauce, made as above, but with a larger -proportion of sugar and vinegar, will keep very well for several weeks, -in a jar well corked. - - -HORSE-RADISH.--Wash clean some roots of horse-radish, wipe them dry, and -scrape off the outside. Then grate the sticks of horse-radish with a -large grater. Put some of the grated horse-radish into a large saucer, -or small deep plate, and moisten it with good cider vinegar, but do not -put so much vinegar as will render it liquid. Send it to table with -roast beef or mutton. - - -CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.--Have ready some very rich good melted or drawn -butter, made with milk and flavored with nutmeg. Thicken it with plenty -of ready-boiled cauliflower, cut into little sprigs or blossoms. Give it -one boil up after the cauliflower is in, and send it to table with any -sort of boiled poultry. It will be found very nice. For a boiled turkey -it is far superior to celery sauce, and well suited to dinner company. - - -BROCCOLI SAUCE.--Make some nice drawn butter with milk. Flavor it with -powdered mace. Pound some spinach in a mortar to extract the juice. -Strain the spinach juice, and stir a small tea-cupful into the butter to -give it a fine green color. Have ready some well-boiled broccoli. Divide -one or two heads of the broccoli into tufts or sprigs. Put them into the -melted butter, and when it comes to a boil, take it off, and transfer it -to a sauce-boat. Serve it up with boiled poultry or fresh fish. - - -PARSLEY SAUCE.--Strip from the stalks the leaves of some fresh green -parsley; allow plenty of it. Chop it slightly; and while the drawn -butter is hot, stir into it the parsley, till the butter looks very -green. Serve it up with boiled fowls, rabbits, or boiled fish. The -appearance of parsley sauce will be much improved by stirring in some -spinach juice. The whole will be then a fine green. - - -CRIMPED PARSLEY.--Pick the small sprigs of parsley from the large -stalks. Wash it, and then throw it into clean cold water. After the meat -or fish that it is to accompany has been fried and taken out of the pan, -give the fat that remains a boil up, and lay the parsley into it. It -will crimp and still continue green, if not kept frying too long. Take -it out, drain it, and place it before the fire a few minutes, to dry it -from the fat. Dish it laid on the top of the fish or steaks. - - -FENNEL SAUCE.--The fennel should be young and fresh. Take a large -handful, or more, and having washed it clean, strip the leaves from the -stems, and boil it till quite tender. Put it into a sieve, and press the -water well from it. Mince it very small, and stir it into drawn butter. - -It is served up with boiled fish. - -Instead of melted butter, you may put the fennel into veal gravy, -thickened with butter dredged with flour. - - -SAGE AND ONION SAUCE.--Take a bunch of fresh sage leaves. Wash and drain -them. Pick them from the stems, and put them to boil in a small -sauce-pan, with just water enough to cover them. Boil them fast about -ten minutes. Take them out, and press them in a sieve to drain them dry. -Then mince or chop them small. Have ready two onions, boiled tender in -another sauce-pan; chop them also, and mix them well with the minced -sage. While warm, mix in a small bit of nice butter--season with pepper. -Put this sauce into a little tureen, and serve it up with roast goose, -roast duck, or roast pork, that has been stuffed with potato, bread, or -other stuffing. The sage and onion sauce is for those who prefer their -flavor to any other seasoning for those dishes. - -This sauce will be greatly improved if moistened with some of the gravy -of the duck or goose. - - -FINE ONION SAUCE.--Peel some nice mild onions, and boil them in plenty -of milk, skimming them well. When done, take them out of the milk, -(saving it,) and slice them very thin, cutting the slices across, so as -to make the pieces of onion very small. Return them to the sauce-pan of -milk, (adding some fresh butter dredged with flour;) season them with -powdered mace or nutmeg, and give the onions another boil, till they are -soft enough to mash, and to thicken the milk all through. Eat this sauce -with steaks, cutlets, rabbits, or chickens. - - -PLAIN ONION SAUCE.--Peel some very small onions, and boil them whole in -milk, (seasoned slightly with pepper and salt,) and put in some bits of -butter rolled in flour. Let them boil till tender all through, but not -till they loose their shape. Eat them with any sort of boiled meat. - - -NASTURTION SAUCE.--This is eaten with boiled mutton; is superior to -caper sauce, and costs almost nothing, if you have nasturtions in your -garden. Gather the green seeds as soon as they are full grown, and throw -them (without the stems) into a jar of cider vinegar. They require no -cooking, but keep a muslin bag of spice in the jar, (mace and nutmeg -broken small, and a little piece of root ginger.) To use them for sauce, -make some nice drawn butter, and as it simmers throw in plenty of -nasturtions from the jar. The seeds, when gathered, should be full -grown, but by no means hard; and the color a fine green. If there is the -slightest brown tinge, the nasturtion seeds are too old, and should be -kept for planting. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE.--Have ready some excellent drawn butter, and thicken it -with small button mushrooms that have been pickled. Or, take -freshly-gathered mushrooms of good size, rub off the outer skin with a -clean flannel, and cut off the stems close to the flaps. Wash the -mushrooms in a cullender. Have ready some bits of fresh butter dredged -all over with flour. Lay them among the mushrooms, (which, if very -large, should be quartered,) and put them into a stew-pan. Cover the -pan, and let them stew till the mushrooms are all tender. When you take -off the lid to try them, replace it immediately, keeping in as much of -the aroma as possible. If fresh, they will yield a great deal of juice. -When done, transfer them to a sauce-tureen, and serve them up with any -nice dish of meat or poultry. - -The best mushrooms are found in pure open air or rather high ground, and -where there is no swamp or woodland. On the upper side of their top they -are not white, but of a pale grayish tint; the under side is invariably -light red, pinkish, or pale salmon color, which in a few hours, or after -being gathered, turns brown. The false mushrooms are poisonous. They are -entirely white above and below. The fungi that grow in forests or -marshes can never be mistaken for real mushrooms. They are of various -colors, chiefly bright yellow and red, and originate in foul air. By -boiling a silver tea-spoon with your mushrooms, you may test their -goodness. If the silver turns black, throw the mushrooms away. An onion -will also blacken from the same cause. Mushrooms should be cooked as -soon as possible. If kept two or three days, worms will be found in -them. Never give mushrooms to children. Even in their best state they -are not wholesome. The taste for mushrooms is an acquired one, and it is -best not to acquire it. - - -TOMATO SAUCE.--Scald some large ripe tomatos, to make them peel easily. -Then quarter them, and press them through a sieve to divest them of -their seeds. Put the juice into a stew-pan, adding some bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour; add finely grated bread-crumbs, and season -with a little pepper, and, if liked, a little onion boiled and minced. -Set the pan over a moderate fire, and let the tomatos simmer slowly till -it comes to a boil. Continue the boiling ten minutes longer. Serve it up -in a sauce-tureen. It will be mellowed and improved by stirring in (as -soon as it comes to a boil) a table-spoonful or a lump of white sugar. - - -TARRAGON SAUCE.--Put into a sauce-pan a large half pint of any nice -gravy that is at hand. After it has boiled five minutes, have ready a -handful of fresh green tarragon leaves, minced, and moistened with -plenty of cider vinegar. Add this to the gravy, and let it simmer five -minutes. Then take it out, and serve it up with any kind of boiled -poultry. - - -TO MAKE GRAVY.--Take two pounds of the lean of veal, or of very nice -beef. Cut it into small bits, and lay it in a sauce-pan with only as -much water as will cover it. Stew it slowly, (skimming it well) till the -meat is all rags. Then strain the gravy, and thicken it with some bits -of fresh butter dredged all over with browned flour, and give it -another simmer. You may flavor it with any seasoning you like. - -For made gravies, you can use any small pieces of fresh meat that has -never been cooked, and the feet of calves and pigs. Boil in it also such -vegetables as you like, cut small. Strain out every thing before it goes -to table. For gravies, use nothing that has been cooked before. They -will not add to its goodness, but only render it flat and washy. - -White gravy is made with fresh veal boiled in milk; and after straining, -thickened arrow-root, or rice flour, mixed with fresh butter, if real -cream cannot be obtained. - - -MUSHROOM CATCHUP.--Let the mushrooms be large and freshly-gathered, for -they soon become worm-eaten if not speedily salted. They should be well -examined. Cut off the stalks of four quarts of nice mushrooms. Put the -flaps into a deep earthen pan, and break them up with your hands. Strew -among them half a pound of salt, reserving the largest portion of it for -the top. Let them stand for three days, stirring them gently every -morning. The fourth day, put them into a sieve, and draw off the liquor -without pressing the mushrooms. When all the liquor has drained through, -measure it, allowing to each quart a tea-spoon of cayenne, a dozen -blades of mace, and a nutmeg broken up. Put the whole into a porcelain -kettle, and boil it slowly till reduced one half. Then pour it into a -clean white-ware pitcher, cover it with a folded napkin, and keep it in -a cool dry place till next day. Then, through a funnel, pour it gently -from the sediment into small bottles. Finish with a tea-spoonful of -sweet oil on the top of each. Cork the bottles tightly, and seal the -corks. - -The next time you make catchup, proceed as above with the new mushrooms, -and other ingredients; and, when it is done, strain it, and put it into -a clean kettle. Then add to it a quart of _last year's_ mushroom -catchup, and boil it a quarter of an hour. Then bottle it as above. - -This double catchup is very fine. - - -WALNUT CATCHUP.--Take two hundred walnuts or butter-nuts, while the -green shell is still so soft that you can pierce it with the head of a -pin. Bruise them to small pieces, in a marble mortar. Transfer them to a -broad stone-ware pan, and stew among them six handfuls of salt. Stir -them three times a day, for ten days or two weeks. Then squeeze and -strain them through a cloth, pressing them very dry, till no more juice -comes out. Boil up the liquor with two quarts of cider vinegar, half an -ounce of mace, half an ounce of whole pepper, half an ounce of nutmegs -broken up, and two roots of ginger cut small, and half a dozen shalots -or small onions, peeled and cut up, and a large bunch of sweet herbs. -Let the whole boil for half an hour. Then pour off the liquor into a -large pitcher, leaving out the bunch of sweet herbs. Pour off the liquor -(through a funnel,) into small bottles, having first put into the bottom -of each bottle a portion of the spice. Fill the bottle up to the top -with the catchup, finishing with a tea-spoonful of salad oil, which will -greatly assist in keeping the catchup good. Cork the bottles very -closely, and seal the corks. - - -TOMATO CATCHUP.--Take a peck of large ripe tomatos. In the middle States -they are in perfection the last of August. Late in the autumn they are -comparatively insipid and watery. Cut a slit down the side of every -tomato. Put them into a large preserving kettle without any water. Their -own juice is sufficient. On no account boil tomatos in brass or copper, -their acid acting on those metals produces verdigris, and renders them -poisonous. Boil them till they are quite soft, and easily mashed, -stirring them up frequently from the bottom. Press and mash them through -a hair sieve, till all the pulp has run out into the pan below, leaving -in the sieve only the skins and seeds. Season the liquid with a little -salt, some cayenne, and plenty of powdered nutmeg and mace. Mix it well, -and when cold put up the catchup in small jars, the covers pasted all -round with bands of white paper. This catchup, when done, should be very -thick and smooth. - - -LEMON CATCHUP.--Take six fine large ripe lemons, and roll them under -your hand to increase the quantity of juice. Grate off all the yellow -rind, and squeeze the juice into a pitcher, removing all the seeds. -Prepare two ounces of finely scraped horse-radish, and two ounces of -minced shalots, or very small onions. Put them into a pint of boiling -vinegar, in which half an ounce of bruised ginger and a quarter of an -ounce of mace have been simmered for five minutes. Add to this the -lemon-juice and the grated peel, and two grated nutmegs. Boil all -together for half an hour, and then transfer it with all the ingredients -to a glass jar with a lid. Paste a band of strong white paper round the -lower part of the lid. Set it in a dry cool place, and leave it -undisturbed for three months. Then, through a funnel, pour off the -liquid into small bottles, putting a tea-spoonful of salad oil at the -top of each. Cork and seal them. - - -CUCUMBER CATCHUP.--For a small quantity of this catchup, take twelve -fine full-grown cucumbers, and lay them an hour in cold water. Then pare -them, and grate them down into a deep dish. Grate also two small onions, -and mix them with the grated cucumber. Season the mixture to your taste -with pepper, salt, and vinegar, making it of the consistence of very -thick marmalade or jam. When thoroughly amalgamated, transfer it to a -glass jar. Cover it closely, tying over it a piece of bladder, so as to -render it perfectly air-tight. - -It will be found very nice, (when fresh cucumbers are not in season,) to -eat with beef or mutton. And if properly made, and securely covered, -will keep well. It should be grated very fine, and the vinegar must be -of very excellent quality--real cider vinegar. - - -CAMP CATCHUP.--Take a pint or quart of strong ale or porter, and a pint -of white wine; half a dozen shalots, or very small onions, peeled and -minced; half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, broken up; and -two large roots or races of ginger, sliced. Put all together, over a -moderate fire, into a porcelain-lined kettle, and boil it slowly till -one-third of the liquid is wasted. Next day transfer it to small -bottles, putting a portion of the seasoning in the bottom of each, and -filling them to the top with the liquid. Finish with a tea-spoonful of -salad oil at the top. Cork the bottles with good corks, and seal them. -In a dry place this catchup will keep for years. - - -TARRAGON VINEGAR.--The fresh leaves of the tarragon plant are in -perfection in July and August, and impart a new and pleasant taste to -soups, hashes, gravies, &c. To use it fresh, wash a bunch of tarragon in -cold water. Afterwards strip off the green leaves, chop or mince them, -and boil a tea-spoonful or more in the dish you intend to flavor. The -best way of keeping tarragon is to strip off as many fresh leaves as -will half fill a glass jar that holds a quart. Pour on as much _real_ -cider vinegar as will fill up the jar. Cover it closely, and let the -tarragon infuse in it for a week, shaking the jar every day. Then pour -off that vinegar carefully, and throw away the tarragon leaves that have -been steeping in it. Wash that jar, or take another clean one, put into -it the same quantity of fresh tarragon leaves, and fill up with the same -vinegar in which you have infused the first supply. Let the second -leaves remain in the jar of vinegar. A tarragon bush is well worth -planting; even in a small city garden. - -Tarragon is the chief ingredient of French mustard. - - -FINE FRENCH MUSTARD.--Take a jill or two large wine-glasses of tarragon -vinegar, (strained from the leaves,) and mix with it an equal quantity -of salad oil, stirring them well together. Pound in a mortar, two ounces -of mustard seed till it becomes a fine smooth powder, and mix it -thoroughly. Add to it one clove of garlic (not more) peeled, minced and -pounded. Make the mixture in a deep white-ware dish. If the mustard -affects your eyes, put on glasses till you have finished the mixture. -When done, put it up in white bottles, or gallipots. Cork them tightly, -and seal the corks. Send it to table in those bottles. - -This mustard is far superior to any other, the tarragon imparting a -peculiar and pleasant flavor. - -It is excellent to eat with any sort of roast meat, particularly beef or -mutton, and an improvement to almost all plain sauces, stews, soups, &c. - -French mustard is to be purchased very good, at all the best grocery -stores. - - -SAUCE ROBERT.--Peel five large onions, and parboil them to take off some -of the strength. Cut them into small dice, and put them into a stew-pan -with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four, and -dredged with flour. When they are well browned, pour on them half a pint -of beef or veal gravy, and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour. -Season it slightly with cayenne. Just before it goes to table, stir in a -table-spoonful of French mustard. - -This is a good sauce for any sort of roast meat, or poultry. - - -GREEN MAYONNAISE.--This is a fine accompaniment to cold poultry, which -must be cut into small pieces as for chicken salad, using only the white -meat. To begin the mayonnaise. Put into a shallow pan the yolks only of -three fresh eggs, having strained out the specks. Having beaten them -till light and thick, add, by degrees, a half pint of salad oil, -stirring it in gradually, so that no oil whatever is to be seen on the -surface. Then add two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Next a few -drops of shalot vinegar, or a _very small_ onion minced as finely as -possible. If you have at hand any clear meat gravy (for instance, -veal,) stir in two or three table-spoonsful. Add the grated yellow rind, -and the juice of a lemon. Pound as much spinach as will yield a small -tea-cupful of green juice. Give it a short boil up, to take off the -rawness, and mix it with the mayonnaise. When cool, pour it over the -dish of cold poultry. - - -EPICUREAN SAUCE.--Pound in a mortar five or six anchovies; a heaped -table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves; a shalot, or very small onion, -two or three pickled gherkins, finely minced; the yolks of four -hard-boiled eggs, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a large -table-spoonful of French mustard. If you have no good butter, mix a -sufficient portion of olive oil to moisten it well. Let the whole be -thoroughly mixed. Put it into a bowl, and set it on ice till wanted. -Then mould it into pats of equal size. Arrange them on small glass or -china plates, and send them to table for dinner company, to eat with the -cheese. - - -EAST INDIA SAUCE FOR FISH.--Mix well together a jill of India soy; a -jill of chili vinegar; half a pint of walnut catchup, and a pint of -mushroom-catchup. Shake the whole hard, and transfer it to small green -bottles, putting a tea-spoonful of sweet oil at the top of each, and -keep the sauce in a cool dry place. If you have not a fish castor, bring -the store sauces to table in the small bottles they are kept in. When -eating fish, mix a little of this with the melted butter on your plate. - - -CURRY POWDER.--Curry powder originates in India, where it is much used -as a peculiar flavoring for soups, stews, and hashes. With curry dishes, -boiled rice is always served up, not only in a separate dish, but also -heaped round the stew in a thick even border. To make curry powder, -pound in a marble mortar three ounces of turmeric, three ounces of -coriander seed, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne; one ounce of -mustard, one ounce of cardamoms, a half ounce of cummin seed, and half -an ounce of mace. Let all these ingredients be thoroughly mixed in the -mortar, and then sift it through a fine sieve, dry it for an hour before -the fire, and put it into clean bottles, securing the corks well. Use -from two to three table-spoonfuls at a time, in proportion to the size -of the dish you intend to curry. - -It may be mixed into the gravy of any of the preceding receipts for -stews. Two ounces of finely grated cocoa-nut is a pleasant improvement -to curried dishes, and is universally liked. - -The curry powder you buy is frequently much adulterated with inferior -articles. The best curry powder imported from India is of a dark green -color, and not yellow or red. It has among its ingredients, tamarinds, -_not_ preserved, as we always get them--but raw in the shell. These -tamarinds impart a pleasant acid to the mixture. For want of them use a -lemon. - - -MADRAS CURRY POWDER.--Pound separately, and sift, six ounces of -coriander seed, three of turmeric, one of black pepper, two of cummin, -one of fennel seed, and half an ounce of cayenne. Mix all together, put -them into a glass jar or bottle, and seal the cover. - -With less turmeric, you may use ginger or sassafras. - -Curry powder may be added to any stew of meat, poultry, or game. Boiled -rice must always accompany a dish of curry. - -The ingredients indispensable to all curries (and you may make a curry -of any nice meat, or poultry, or even of oysters) is a very pungent -powder, prepared for the purpose with turmeric. Also onions and boiled -rice. In India there is always something acid in the mixture, as lemons, -sour apple juice, or green tamarinds. The turmeric has a peculiar flavor -of its own. - - -STORE SAUCES.--The celebrated English sauces, for fish and game, -Harvey's sauce, (which is the best,) Quin's, Reading's, Kitchener's, -Soyer's, &c., are all very good, and keep well, if genuine. They are -imported in small sealed bottles, and are to be had of all the best -grocers. To make them at home, is so troublesome and expensive, that it -is better to buy them. They are, however, very nice, and are generally -introduced at dinner parties; a little being mixed on your plate with -the melted butter. If you have no fish castors, bring these sauces to -table in their own bottles, to be carried round by a servant. - - -FINE PINK SAUCE.--Take a pint of excellent port wine, the juice and -grated yellow rinds of four large lemons, two dozen blades of mace and a -large nutmeg, broken up; with a quarter of an ounce of prepared -cochineal, or a small tea-spoonful of alkanet chips. Add a -table-spoonful of fresh salad oil. Mix the whole well in a wide-mouthed -glass jar with a lid. Let the ingredients infuse a fortnight; stirring -it several times a day. Then strain it, pour it through a funnel into -small bottles, and seal the corks. It will give a fine pink color to -drawn butter. Eat it with any sort of fish or game. - -Alkanet produces a much finer color than cochineal, but it must unite -with some substance of an oily nature to give out its color to -advantage. It is very cheap, and very beautiful, and to be had at the -druggist's. Infuse it tied in a thin muslin bag. - - -WINE SAUCE FOR VENISON OR GAME.--Take the half of a sixpenny loaf of -bread. Cut off all the crust. Put the crumb (or soft part) into a bowl, -and pour on sufficient good port wine to steep it. Soak the bread in the -wine till dissolved. Then add two heaped table-spoonsful of fresh -butter, and two heaped spoonsful of sugar; seasoning with powdered mace -and nutmeg, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon. Beat all -together till very smooth. Put it into a sauce-pan, and give it one boil -up; taking it off as soon as it comes to a boil. Send it to table hot. -It is a fine company sauce for venison, or hare, or any sort of game. - - -FINE PUDDING SAUCE.--Take a large half-pint cup of the best fresh -butter, and the same quantity of powdered loaf-sugar. Put them together -in an earthen pan, and beat them to a light thick cream. Then mix a jill -or wine-glass of boiling water, and a large wine-glass of the best -brandy, with the grated yellow rind and juice of a large lemon or -orange; and a small nutmeg, grated. Mix these ingredients, gradually, -with the beaten butter and sugar; and transfer the sauce to a small -tureen, putting a spoon or ladle into it. - -If designed for sauce to a plum-pudding or any other large one, you will -require a pint of butter, a pint of sugar, half a pint of boiling water -with half a pint of brandy, two lemons or oranges, and a _large_ nutmeg, -or two small ones. Divide the sauce in two tureens. A boiled pudding for -company requires no finer sauce than this. - -Where _real_ cream is plenty, a bowl of it well sweetened with sugar, -and flavored with nutmeg, is nice for any boiled pudding. If you add -wine or lemon juice to cream sauce, previously mix the acid with the -sugar, and make it very sweet before you put them to the cream, lest it -should curdle. - - -VANILLA SAUCE.--Split and break up a small stick of vanilla, and boil it -in a very little milk, till all the vanilla flavor is extracted. Then -strain it through very fine muslin, and stir it into the cream. Give it -one boil up in a small porcelain sauce-pan; and sweeten it well with -white sugar. - - -PLAIN SAUCE FOR PUDDING.--Stir together (as in making pound cake) equal -quantities of fresh butter and white sugar. This is the usual -proportion; but if you can stir or beat it easily, try a little less -butter, and a little more of the sugar. Grate in some nutmeg, and the -yellow rind of a fresh lemon, and send it to table heaped on a small -plate, with a tea-spoon near it.[E] - - [E] The butter and sugar sauce is very nice flavored and colored with - the juice of strawberries or raspberries. - -Many persons prefer, with plain puddings, cold butter on a butter plate, -and sugar from the sugar-bowl; mixing it for themselves on their own -plate. This is best for boiled fruit pudding or dumplings; and for egg -or batter puddings, molasses or syrup is very good; and costs but -little. - - -CRANBERRY SAUCE.--Pick the cranberries clean, seeing that no stems, -sticks, or dead leaves are left among them. Put them into a cullender, -or sieve, and wash them through two waters. Cook them in a -porcelain-lined, or enameled stew-pan, without any additional water. The -water that remains about them after washing is quite sufficient for -stewing them properly. No stewed fruit should be too thin or liquid. -Keep a steady heat under the cranberries, stirring them up from the -bottom frequently: and when they are soft, mash them with the back of -the spoon. When they are quite shapeless, take them off the fire, and -while they are very hot, stir in, gradually, an ample quantity of nice -_brown_ sugar. They require much sweetening. Season them with nothing -else. Their natural flavor is sufficient (if well sweetened) and cannot -be improved by spice, lemon, or any of the usual condiments. Always buy -the largest and ripest cranberries. The best things are cheapest in the -end. - -In stewing any sort of fruit, do not add the sugar till the fruit is -done, and taken from the fire. If sweetened at the beginning, much of -the strength of the sugar evaporates in cooking; besides rendering the -fruit tough and hard, and retarding the progress of the stew. - -In America, sweet sauce is eaten with any sort of roast meat. Send it to -table cold. For company, put it into a blanc-mange mould, and turn it -out in a shape, first dipping the mould, for a minute, in warm water to -loosen it. - - -APPLE SAUCE.--Get fine juicy apples--bellflowers are the best for -cooking. Sweet apples cook very badly--becoming tough, dry and -tasteless. Green apples, if full grown, cook well, and have a pleasant -acid. - -For sauce, pare, core, and quarter or slice the apples. Wash the pieces -in a cullender, and put them to stew, with only water enough to wet them -a little. Apple stews that are thin and watery are disgraceful to the -cook, or to the cook's mistress. Let them stew till you can mash them -easily all through. Then take them off the fire, and sweeten them, -adding the seasoning while the apples are warm. Season with rose-water, -lemon juice, nutmeg; or with all these if for company. If you can get -fresh lemon-peel, cut it into very thin slips, and put it in to stew -with the apples at first. It is still better, and little more trouble, -to grate the lemon-peel. - -Fruit for pies should be stewed in the same manner as for sauce, and not -sweetened till taken from the fire. Let the paste be baked empty in -large deep plates, and when cool, filled to the brim with stewed fruit. -A pie, (as we have seen them,) only half or one third full, looks very -meanly--and tastes so. - -All these fruit-sauces are good receipts for stewing fruit for pies or -any other purpose. - -We advise all families to have, among their kitchen utensils, _bain -maries_, or double-kettles, putting the article to be stewed in the -inner kettle, and the boiling water in the outside one. They are to be -had of all sizes at the furnishing stores. They are also excellent for -custards and boiled puddings. - - -BAKED APPLE SAUCE.--Core very nicely as many fine juicy apples as will -fill a large baking-pan. All coring of apples should be done with a tin -cover. This you can buy at a tinman's for a quarter dollar, and it is -invaluable for the purpose. After coring the apples, pare them smooth -and evenly. Put a large table-spoonful of cold water in the bottom of -the baking-pan, and then put in the apples first, filling, with fine -brown sugar, the hole from whence the core was taken out. To have them -very nice, add some grated lemon-peel, or some rose-water. Set the pan -into an oven, (not too hot,) close the oven, and bake till the apples -are all broken and can be easily mashed. This way of making apple sauce, -by baking in a close oven, will be found far superior to boiling or -stewing them. They require no more water than is barely sufficient to -give them a start at the bottom. - -The flavoring (sugar, lemon, or rose,) may be deferred till the apples -are baked, taken out of the oven and mashed. Then mix it in while hot. - -Boiled apple sauce is usually spoiled with too much water, rendering it -the consistence of thin pap, weak, washy, and mean. - - -GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.--Get fine full-grown green gooseberries. Pick them -over, and top and tail them. Wash them in a cullender or sieve through -two waters. Put them into an enameled stew-pan, with only the water -remaining on them after washing, and no sugar till after they are stewed -to a mash, and taken from the fire. Then while hot, stir in brown sugar -enough to make them very sweet. Serve them up cold. For company, before -they are sweetened, press them through a sieve, using only the pulp. -Then add the sugar; and mould the whole in a form. - - -CURRANT SAUCE.--Take fine ripe currants, and strip them from the stems. -Put them into a pan, and mash them with a large spoon, or a wooden -beetle. Stew them in their own juice (no water,) and sweeten them when -they are taken from the fire. For company, press the fruit through a -sieve before you add the sugar, and shape it in a mould. - -It will answer every purpose of regular currant jelly, to eat with game, -venison, &c. - - -RIPE PEACH SAUCE.--Take juicy freestone peaches; pare and stone them, -and cut them up. Save all the juice, and stew them in it. When quite -soft, take them off the fire, and sweeten them. The flavor will be much -improved by stewing with them a bunch of fresh peach leaves, to be taken -out when the peaches are done. Or, if you cannot readily obtain the -leaves, a handful of the fresh peach kernels, stewed with the fruit, -(and to be taken out afterwards,) will answer the purpose. - -It is well, even in the sunny side of a city garden, to plant two peach -stones; so that when they grow into trees, you may have peach leaves at -hand for improving the flavor of custards, and other things. Unless the -trees are perfectly healthy, and the leaves green, do not use them. - - -DRIED PEACH SAUCE.--The richest and best dried peaches, are those that -are dried with the skins on. The skins (however thick,) entirely -dissolve in cooking, and become imperceptible when the fruit is well -stewed. It is a great error to pare peaches for drying. Apples _must_ be -pared, for the skin is tougher than that of peaches, and does not -dissolve in cooking. - -To prepare dried peaches for stewing, pick them over carefully, throwing -away all the imperfect pieces. Wash them in two cold waters, and then -put them into a stew-pan, (_adding no water_,) and stew them till they -are quite soft, and shapeless, and mash easily and smoothly in the pan. -Sweeten them with plenty of brown sugar, as soon as they come off the -fire. - - -DRIED APPLE SAUCE.--Wash the dried apples through a cullender, and put -_a very little water_ with them in the stew-pan. Being rather insipid, -they require some additional flavor. Add cinnamon, or other spice of -any sort you like, and the yellow rind of a fresh lemon or orange, pared -very thin and cut into slips. When these apples are well stewed and -mashed, sweeten them. - -We believe, that when dried peaches can be procured, few will buy dried -apples; they are so far inferior; being the poorest of dried fruit. - -Dried cherries also are scarcely worth cooking, even if they _have_ been -stoned. Being tough and indigestible, they are very unwholesome, except -for rough, hard-working people. If the stones are left in, dried -cherries are fit for nothing. - - -DAMSON SAUCE.--Having stewed the damsons in their own juice, till all -the stones slip out, (and can be easily removed with a spoon, when taken -from the fire,) make them very sweet by stirring in a large portion of -brown sugar. - -Damsons, cranberries, and gooseberries require more sugar than any other -fruit. - - -FINE PRUNE SAUCE.--Wash a pound of prunes, and stew them in orange -juice, adding the yellow rind of an orange, pared so fine as to be -transparent--or grate it. Stir them up frequently, and when quite done, -and the stones are all loose, sweeten the prunes with plenty of sugar. - -Prune sauce is eaten with venison, or any sort of game; or with roast -kid or fawn--or with roast pig. - - -CHESTNUT SAUCE.--Take the large Spanish chestnuts. Cut a slit in the -side of each, and roast them well. Peel them, and put them into a -saucepan of very rich melted butter. If you use American chestnuts, boil -them till quite soft, (trying two or three to ascertain,) then peel, and -thicken your melted butter with them. American chestnuts are too small -to roast. - - -PEA-NUT SAUCE.--Having roasted and shelled a pint of pea-nuts, or -ground-nuts, remove the thin brown skin, and simmer the nuts in melted -or drawn butter; adding some fine fresh oysters, omitting the gristle. - - - - -VEGETABLES. - - -All vegetables are best when fresh, as can easily be discovered by the -difference between those newly brought from the garden, and those that -have been kept in a provision shop till next day, (and perhaps longer,) -imbibing the atmosphere of meat, fish, poultry, and a variety of things, -each becoming impure from the same causes; not to mention the rats, -mice, and insects which run over them at night. You cannot have -vegetables in perfection without a country garden. But if obliged to -depend upon the market or the provision shops, always have your -vegetables washed and laid in cold water before cooking. Some are best -when put on to boil in cold water; others require boiling water at the -beginning, to give them what the cooks call a quick start. All should be -thoroughly done throughout. If hard in the centre they are unpalatable, -and very unwholesome; even worse than underdone meat. Use but very -little salt in cooking vegetables; too much renders them hard, and -overpowers their real taste. Also, it is easy for the lovers of salt to -add more when at table. When vegetables are done, and taken out the pot, -drain them well through a cullender or sieve, carefully pressing out all -the water that is about them. There is generally, in our country, too -much water allowed to the vegetables. Merely enough to cover them well, -and keep them from burning, is in most cases sufficient. In France, so -little water is used in cooking vegetables, that they are rather stewed -than boiled, and are the better for it. A puddle of greasy water in the -bottom of every vegetable dish is a disgusting sight; and yet how -frequently it is seen. If of every-day occurrence, it is a certain -indication of a bad cook, or an inefficient mistress, or both. - -Almost all green vegetables should be thrown into fast-boiling water, -and cooked rapidly; first washing them carefully, and laying them for -half an hour in a large pan of cold water. If found frozen in the -winter, be sure to thaw them in cold water. Continue the boiling till -they are thoroughly done, and with a steady heat, taking off the scum -as it rises. - -It is very usual in the spring to bring early vegetables from the south, -for the markets of Philadelphia and New York. By the time they reach us -they are faded, withered, tough and unwholesome. It is better to wait a -week or two longer till the season is a little more advanced, and the -farms and gardens of our neighborhood can supply our own markets, at a -far less cost, and with fresher and better vegetables. - -The water in which vegetables have been boiled becomes very unwholesome, -and should be thrown out immediately. - - -BOILED POTATOS.--To have boiled potatos in perfection they should all be -of a good sort and as nearly as possible of the same size. Till it is -time to cook them, let the slight mould or earth that has adhered to the -potatos in digging, be carefully washed off, even scrubbing them with a -hard brush. This can be done very conveniently, by laying them under the -hydrant or pump, washing them there with a broom, and letting the water -run on them. - -An iron pot is the best of all things for boiling potatos, as it retains -the heat longer than any other utensil. Lay them in it, closely and -compactly, and pour in barely sufficient cold water to cover them well, -adding a tea-spoonful of salt. Simmer them till nearly done, which you -may ascertain by probing all through with a fork. You may quicken the -fire for the last five minutes. Pour off all the water from them as soon -as they are tender all through. Lift the lid of the pot at one side to -allow the steam to pass off, and set them beside the fire, or on a -trevet far above it, till the moisture has escaped; the potatos will -then be dry and mealy. Then peel them; or if preferred, send them to -table with the skin on, which will keep them hot longer. - -If the potatos are old, cut a piece of skin (about the size of a -sixpence) from the top and bottom before boiling; or, take off a long -slip from each side. In the spring, when quite old, cut out all the -blemishes, pare the potatos, and always boil them for mashing. - - -ROAST POTATOS.--Potatos for roasting should always be large and fine. If -small, "they go all to skin." Select those that are nearest of a size, -and wash them very clean, and wipe every one with a cloth. Put them into -an oven, and let them roast or bake for more than two hours, turning -them with a fork. Dish them in the skins, and send only cold butter to -table with them. Bake sweet potatos in the same manner, but much longer. -Small sweet potatos should be boiled; as, when small, they are not worth -cooking in any other way; and when roasted there is scarcely any thing -of them, but tough shriveled skin. - - -BAKED POTATOS.--Pare some fine potatos all about the same size, and -cover with them the whole bottom of a large deep earthen dish; lay them -close together so that they all touch. Bake them under a nice piece of -beef, veal, or pork, raised above them on a trivet. The gravy from the -meat will drip upon them as soon as it begins to bake. They must bake -till they are nicely browned, and till a fork will easily go through -them. Have a smaller dish of potatos baked without meat, in a dish by -themselves, as potatos pared before baking are much liked. Lay some bits -of fresh butter among those that are cooked without any meat. - - -TO BOIL NEW POTATOS.--Rub each one with a coarse cloth to clear off the -skin, it being too thin for paring. Wash them well, and cut a small -piece off the top and bottom of each potato, to make them boil tender -all through. Put no salt in the water, and boil them till soft. Serve -them plain, and eat them with cold butter--or, put them into a -sauce-pan, and stew them in butter. - - -MASHED POTATOS.--Having boiled the potatos till tender all through, -drain them very dry in a cullender, and mash them smoothly with a potato -beetle, a large wooden spoon, or a short-handled wooden ladle. When all -are nicely mashed, add gradually plenty of fresh butter, and some cream -or rich milk. On no account spoil the potatos by putting any water to -them, when mashing. Put them into a deep dish or mould, and brown them -with a salamander. - - -POTATO CAKES.--After the mashed potatos are mixed with butter in a deep -earthen pan, beat them with a wooden spoon to render them very light. -Then make them up into thick flat cakes, about the size of a muffin, and -brown each with a salamander. - - -COUNTRY POTATOS.--Having boiled and peeled some fine newly-dug potatos, -melt some butter in a sauce-pan, with cream, instead of flour and water, -and pour it plentifully into the dish of potatos; seasoning with black -pepper and sweet marjoram leaves. Where cream is plenty, this is a very -nice way of cooking. Serve them up with the sauce poured over them, and -around them. They must be well boiled, and tender all through. - - -FRIED POTATOS.--The potatos must be raw, large, unblemished, and of a -good round shape. First take off a thin paring of the skin. Then, pare -the whole potato round and round, (not too thin,) till you have gone -through it all, and nothing is left unpared but a little lump in the -centre. Then put these continuous rings of potato into a frying-pan, in -which is boiling plenty of fresh butter, or butter and lard mixed. Fry -them brown and tender, and arrange them handsomely in a dish for -breakfast. - -_Another Way._--Slice thin a sufficiency of fine raw potatos, and lay -them in a pan of cold water to soak for an hour or more. Then pour off -that water entirely, and replace it with fresh. Let them remain in this -for another hour, or till it is time to cook them. Put them into a -frying-pan that has in it plenty of fresh butter or lard, enough, while -frying, to keep the potatos near the surface. Fry them till perfectly -well done and tender. - -Attempting to re-cook cold potatos renders them more hard and tough. - -When once cold, potatos always remain indigestible, cook them as you -will. - - -STEWED POTATOS.--Having pared some fine raw potatos, quarter them, and -put them into a stew-pan with a little salt, pepper, and some green -sweet marjoram stripped from the stalks, and scattered among the -potatos. Put them into a stew-pan with milk enough to prevent their -burning, and some fresh butter--no water. If you can get cream -conveniently, add some to the milk. Cover the pan, and let the potatos -stew, till, on trying them with a fork, you find them thoroughly cooked, -and soft and tender all through. If not sufficiently done, they are -hard, tough, leathery, and unfit to eat. - -They are very good stewed entirely in the dripping of cold gravy of -roast beef, veal, or pork--but not mutton, as that will give them the -taste of tallow. This is a nice breakfast dish. Cold potatos re-cooked -never again become good. After potatos once become cold, no cooking can -restore them. - - -STEWED SWEET POTATOS.--These should first be scraped or pared. Then cut -into pieces, and stewed as above. - - -BOILED CABBAGE.--All cabbage should be well washed, and boiled in a -large quantity of water with a little salt; the loose or faded leaves -being stripped from the outside. They should always be cut or split in -two, or in four pieces if very large. Cut the stalk short, and split it -up to where the leaves begin. Put it on in boiling water, and keep it -boiling steadily till quite done, which will not be till the stalk is -tender throughout. If a young summer cabbage, split it in half, and when -well boiled, and drained and pressed in a cullender, serve it up with a -few bits of cold fresh butter, laid inside among the leaves. Season it -with pepper. This is a much nicer and easier way, than to make drawn -butter, and pour over the outside of the cabbage. - -Sprouts and very young greens, require nothing more than to be well -washed, boiled and drained. In the country, cabbage sprouts are commonly -boiled with bacon. - -Savoy cabbage is considered the finest sort. It is a late autumn and -winter cabbage. If very large, split it in four. Do not boil it with -meat. The fat will render it strong and unwholesome. Still worse, when -melted butter is added to a cabbage already saturated with the fat of -corned beef. - - -AN EXCELLENT WAY OF BOILING CABBAGE.--Having trimmed the cabbage, and -washed it well in cold water, (examining the leaves to see that no -insects are lurking among them,) cut it almost into quarters, but do not -divide it entirely down at the stem, which should be cut off just below -the termination of the leaves. Let it lie an hour in a pan of cold -water. Have ready a pot _full_ of boiling water, seasoned with a small -tea-spoonful of salt. Put the cabbage into it, and let it boil for an -hour and a half, skimming it occasionally. Then take it out; put it into -a cullender to drain, and when all the hot water has drained off; set it -under the hydrant. Let the hydrant run on it, till the cabbage has -become perfectly cold all through. If you have no hydrant, set it under -a pump, or keep pouring cold water on it from a pitcher. Then, having -thrown out all the first water, and washed the pot, fill it again, and -let the second water boil. During this time the cabbage under the -hydrant will be growing cold. Then put it on again in the second water, -and boil it two hours, or two and a half. Even the thickest part of the -stalk must be perfectly tender all through. When thoroughly done, take -up the cabbage, drain it well through the cullender, pressing it down -with a broad ladle to squeeze out all the moisture; lay it in a deep -dish, and cut it _entirely_ apart, dividing it into quarters. Lay some -bits of fresh butter among the leaves, add a little pepper, cover the -dish, and send it to table hot. - -Cooked in this manner it will be made perfectly wholesome, and the -usually unpleasant cabbage smell will be rendered imperceptible. We -recommend it highly. - - -CALE CANNON.--Boil in one pot a fine large cabbage, and when done, drain -and press it in a cullender till all the water is squeezed out. Have -boiled in another, four or five large mealy potatos. Peel and mash the -potatos, and chop the cabbage small. Mix the cabbage and the potatos -evenly, in one large dish, and season them with black pepper; adding -some bits of nice butter. Cale cannon is a plain family dish, but is -very good, when all the dinner corresponds. - - -FRIED CABBAGE.--Parboil a fine cabbage. When half-boiled, take it out, -drain it, and lay it awhile in cold water, to remove the cabbage smell. -Next put it into a clean pot of fresh water, and boil it again till -thoroughly done. Afterwards, chop it small, season it with pepper and -salt, and fry it in fresh butter. - -A less delicate way is to fry it in boiling lard, taking care to drain -it well. It should be eaten only by people in good health. - - -FORCED CABBAGE--(_Choux farcie._)--This is for dinner company. Take two -fine fresh cabbages, and examine them well to see that there are no -insects hidden among the leaves. Wash the cabbages in cold water, and -drain them. Take out the heart or inside cluster of leaves in the centre -of each cabbage, leaving a circle of them standing. Cut off the stalk -near the bottom, but not so close as to cause the cabbage to fall apart. -You may leave a double circle of leaves. Have ready plenty of stuffing, -or forcemeat, made of veal or fresh pork minced finely, cold ham or -smoked tongue minced also, grated bread-crumbs, fresh butter, powdered -mace, sweet marjoram and sweet basil, grated lemon-peel, and two -hard-boiled yolks of egg, crumbled fine. Fill the cabbages full with -this stuffing, and to keep them in shape, tie them firmly round in -several places, with strings of twine or bass. They must be tied in the -form of a round ball. Put them into a stew-pot, with water enough to -cover them well, and let them stew till thoroughly done. Take them up -immediately before they are wanted, and remove the strings that have -kept them in shape while cooking. Red cabbages may be done in this way. - - -FRENCH SOUR CROUT.--This may be made fresh every day, and has none of -the objections generally alleged against the German saur-kraut. Having -taken out the stalks or cores, split into quarters, four large -white-heart cabbages. Shred them fine with a cabbage-cutter. Wash them -well in two waters, and drain them in a cullender. Next lay the shred -cabbages in a large earthen pan, add a table-spoonful of salt, and a -pint of the best cider vinegar. Stir and toss the cabbage in this, and -let it steep for three hours. Then wash and drain it, and put it into a -large stew-pan, with half a pound of nice sweet butter, or a quarter of -a pound of lard. Season it with a little black pepper, and three -table-spoonfuls of French mustard, or a jill of tarragon vinegar. Cover -the whole with a buttered white paper, and stew it slowly for two hours -longer. Take off the paper, and send the sour crout to table in a -covered dish. - -You may lay on the top of the stew, a pound of sausage meat, or of -sausage cakes. Or a thin slice or two of cold ham. - - -DRESSING FOR SLAW.--Mix a small pint of real cider vinegar with four -large table-spoonfuls of nice fresh butter, divided into four bits, and -each bit rolled in flour; a tea-spoon of salt, and a salt-spoon of -cayenne. Being well stirred, and mixed thoroughly, boil this in a -porcelain-lined sauce-pan; and, as soon as it has come to a fast boil, -remove it from the fire, and stir in the beaten yolk of four eggs. Have -ready a nice fresh white cabbage, that has been washed, drained, and -cut, or shaved, into small shreds with a cabbage cutter. Lay the shred -cabbage in a deep dish or bowl, while you prepare the above dressing. -Having taken it from the fire, and stirred in, gradually, the beaten -yolk of egg, pour the dressing hot over the cabbage: mixing it all with -a large boxwood salad-spoon or fork. Set it out of doors to cool; or -cool it quickly on ice or snow. - -Or if preferred warm, place it on the top of a stove, and cover it -closely till wanted. It may be made of red cabbage. - -This slaw (either cold or warm) will be found very superior to all -others, if this receipt is exactly followed. - - -SALSIFY FRITTERS.--Having washed and scraped the salsify roots, and cut -off the extreme joints, stand them up and grate them. Beat three eggs -very light, and stir them gradually into a pint of milk, with sufficient -flour to make a stiff batter. Instead of grating the salsify you may cut -it into pieces, and boil it till quite soft, so that you can mash it -easily. Add a little pepper. Have ready over the fire a deep frying-pan -or skillet, with plenty of boiling lard. Put in a large spoonful of the -batter, and into the middle of each drop a spoonful of the mashed -salsify. Fry these fritters of a light brown on both sides, and take -them out with a perforated skimmer, draining off the lard through its -holes. - -You may fry the mashed salsify without the batter, taking large -spoonfuls, and dipping each in beaten egg first, and afterward twice -over in grated bread-crumbs, so as to resemble fried oysters. - -Or you may first boil the roots merely split in two, and then fry them -in fresh butter, or bake them brown in an oven. - - -SALSIFY OYSTERS.--Get some fine salsify roots, (called also -oyster-plant,) and wash and scrape them well. Boil them in sufficient -fresh oyster liquor to cover them well, and when they are soft take them -out, split them, and cut them into pieces about two inches long. Then -put them into a stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, some pieces of fresh -butter rolled in flour, and some blades of mace and some grated nutmeg, -with a few whole pepper-corns. Let them cook between five and ten -minutes, having stirred among them the beaten yolks of two or three -eggs. Serve them up hot, as a side dish. - - -MELONGINA OR EGG-PLANT.--Take a large fine egg-plant, and see that there -are no blemishes about it. Having cut it into thin round slices, -(without paring off the skin,) sprinkle between the slices a very little -salt and pepper, cover them with a plate, and let them rest an hour -more. Then wipe the pieces dry. Have some beaten egg in one deep plate, -and some bread-crumbs, finely grated, in another. Dip each slice of -egg-plant first into the beaten egg, and then into the bread-crumbs, and -fry them brown in a pan full of boiling lard, or else lard and fresh -butter mixed in equal quantities. Take them out with a perforated -skimmer, and drain them well. - -They will be much better if each slice is dipped _twice_ in the egg, and -twice in the crumbs. - -They may be fried very plainly, simply dredged with flour, and then put -into a pan with plenty of boiling lard, the lard drained well from each -slice when it is done. They should be fried brown on both sides. If -underdone, and left greenish or whitish, they have a raw bitter taste. - - -BAKED EGG-PLANTS.--Prepare several fine large unblemished egg-plants, by -scooping out the inside or pulp with a spoon, leaving the rind standing. -To do this you must cut off very nicely and evenly a round piece from -the top, (afterwards to be tied on again.) Make a sufficient quantity of -forcemeat or stuffing of soaked bread, pressed and dried slightly; fresh -butter; minced sweet marjoram leaves; a little pepper and salt; and some -powdered mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated off very fine. Mix -all these with the pulp or inside of the egg-plant. When thoroughly -mixed, stuff with it the rind or outside into a perfectly round shape, -and with a packthread tie on the top-piece which was cut off. Put the -egg-plants into a dish, the bottom covered with thin slices of cold ham. -Bake them for an hour or more, and then send them to table whole, with -the slices of ham laid round on the dish. Remove the strings. - - -FRIED BANANAS.--The bananas should be perfectly ripe and yellow all -over. Peel them, split them into long slips, and dredge them slightly -with flour. Have ready a frying pan filled with boiling lard. Put in the -bananas, and fry them well. When done, take them up on a perforated -skimmer, and drain back the lard into the frying pan. Dish, and send -them to table with powdered sugar to eat with them. - -In the West Indies, the large green bananas that are exported from -thence, are by no means in favor, compared with a _very small_ yellow -sort, the only banana eaten at the best tables. The little ones are -fried in the above manner. - - -ONION CUSTARD.--Peel and slice ten or twelve mild onions, and fry them -in fresh butter, draining them well when you take them up. Then mince -them as fine as possible. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and -stir them gradually into a pint of milk, in turn with the minced onion. -Season the whole with plenty of grated nutmeg, and stir it very hard. -Then put it into a deep white dish, and bake it about a quarter of an -hour. Send it to table as a side dish, to be eaten with poultry. It is a -French preparation, and will be found very nice, by those who have no -dislike to onions. - - -CAULIFLOWERS.--Choose large fine white cauliflowers. Wash them well, and -lay them in a pan of cold water, having divided each cauliflower into -quarters. Trim off the outside green leaves. Put on the cauliflowers in -boiling water with a little salt in it. It is still better to boil them -in milk. Let them cook till tender throughout, flower and stalk. When -quite done, put some bits of fresh butter among the flowers, or pour -over them drawn butter sauce, made with milk and seasoned with powdered -nutmeg or mace. Serve them up hot, and covered. - - -BROCCOLI--Is drest in the same manner. It is very good with toast under, -though inferior to cauliflower. - - -CAULIFLOWER OMELET.--Take the white part of a boiled cauliflower after -it is cold; chop it very small, and mix with it a sufficient quantity of -well beaten-egg, to make a very thick batter. Then fry it in fresh -butter in a small pan, and send it hot to table. - - -FRIED CAULIFLOWER.--Having laid a fine cauliflower in cold water for an -hour, put it into a pot of boiling water that has been slightly salted, -(milk and water will be still better,) and boil it twenty-five minutes, -or till the large stalk is perfectly tender. Then divide it, equally, -into small tufts, and spread it on a dish to cool. Prepare a sufficient -quantity of batter made in the proportion of a table-spoonful of flour, -and two table-spoonfuls of milk to each egg. Beat the eggs very light, -then stir into them the flour and milk alternately; a spoonful of flour, -and two spoonfuls of milk at a time. When the cauliflower is cold, have -ready some fresh butter in a frying-pan over a clear fire. When it has -come to a boil and has done bubbling, dip each tuft of cauliflower twice -into the pan of batter, and fry them a light brown. Send them to table -hot. - -Broccoli may be fried in this manner. - - -CAULIFLOWER MACCARONI.--Having removed the outside leaves, and cut off -the stalk, wash the cauliflower, and examine it thoroughly to see if -there are any insects about it. Next lay it for an hour in a pan of cold -water. Then put it into a pot of boiling milk and water that has had a -little fresh butter melted in it. Whatever scum may float on the top of -the water must be removed before the cauliflower goes in. Boil it -steadily half an hour, or till it is quite tender. Then take it out, -drain it, and cut it into short sprigs. Have ready three ounces of -rich, but not strong cheese, grated fine. Put into a stew-pan a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter, nearly half of the grated cheese, two large -table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk, and a very little salt and -cayenne. Toss or shake it over the fire till it is well mixed and has -come to a boil. Then add the tufts of cauliflower, and let the whole -stew together about five minutes. When done put it into a deep dish, -strew over the top the remaining half of the grated cheese, and brown it -with a salamander or a red-hot shovel held above the surface. - -This will be found very superior to real maccaroni. It is a company -dish. - - -BROCCOLI AND EGGS.--Take several heads of broccoli and cut the stalks -short, paring off from the stalks the tough outside skin. Trim off the -small outside shoots or blossoms, and tie them together in bunches. -After all the broccoli has been washed, and lain half an hour or more in -a pan of fresh cold water, put the large heads, with a salt-spoonful of -salt, into a pot of boiling water, and let them boil till thoroughly -done, and the stalk perfectly tender. When the large heads have boiled -about a quarter of an hour, put in the small tufts, which of course -require less time to cook. In the meanwhile have ready six beaten eggs. -Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a sauce-pan, and stir it over -the fire till it is all melted; then add gradually the beaten eggs, and -stir the mixture, or shake it over the fire till it becomes very thick. -Toast sufficient bread to cover entirely the bottom of a deep dish, -cutting it to fit exactly, having removed the crust. Dip the toast for a -minute in hot water. Pour the egg and butter over the hot toast. Then -place upon it the broccoli; the largest and finest head in the middle, -the lesser ones round it, and having untied the small sprigs, lay them -in a circle close to the edge. - - -FRIED CELERY.--Take fine large celery, cut it into pieces three or four -inches in length, and boil it tender, having seasoned the water with a -very little salt. Then drain the pieces well, and lay them, separately, -to cool on a large dish. Make a batter in the proportion of three -well-beaten eggs stirred into a pint of rich milk, alternately with half -a pint of grated bread-crumbs, or of sifted flour. Beat the batter very -hard after it is all mixed. Put into a hot frying-pan a sufficiency of -fresh lard; melt it over the fire, and when it comes to a boil, dip each -piece of celery _twice_ into the batter, put them into the pan, and fry -them a light brown. When done, lay them to drain on an inverted sieve -with a broad pan placed beneath it. Then dish the fried celery, and send -it to table hot. - -Parsnips, and salsify, (or oyster plant) may be fried in butter -according to the above directions. Also the tops of asparagus cut off -from the stalk, and the white part or blossom of cauliflower. Cold -sweet potatos are very nice, peeled, cut into long slips, and fried in -this way. - - -FRIED ARTICHOKES.--The artichokes must be young and tender. Cut them -into quarters, remove the choke part, and strip off the leaves. Having -washed the artichokes well and laid them an hour in cold water, put them -into a pot of boiling water, and keep them boiling steadily for a long -time, till you find by trying them with a a fork that they are tender -all through. Then take them out immediately, and drain them. Have ready -a sufficiency of batter, made in the proportion of the yolk of one egg -to a large table-spoonful of milk, and a tea-spoonful of flour. The eggs -must be well beaten before they are mixed with the milk; then beat in -the flour a spoonful at a time. Have ready over the fire some fresh -butter, or lard, in a frying-pan. When it has boiled hard, dip the -artichokes into the butter, (each piece should be twice dipped,) and fry -them brown. Then drain them well, and send them to table hot. - -Parsnips may be fried as above. Salsify also. - -Another way of frying artichokes, parsnips, and salsify, is, after they -have been boiled tender, to dip each piece first in beaten yolk of egg, -(without milk or flour,) and then roll it in finely grated bread-crumbs. -Then put them into the pan and fry them in butter or lard, or a mixture -of both. - -In boiling artichokes, observe to take them out as soon as they are -tender. If they remain in the water after they are done, they turn -blackish and lose their flavor. - - -MUSHROOM OMELET.--Take some fresh-gathered mushrooms; remove the stalks, -and rub the flaps or heads very slightly with a little salt, mixed with -cayenne. Then stew the mushrooms in a small sauce-pan, with barely -sufficient cream or rich milk to cover them. Put in with them a small -onion; and if the onion is found to turn blackish, throw away the whole; -it being proof that there is among them a false or poisonous mushroom. -Stir them with a silver spoon, and keep on the lid of the pan closely, -unless when you are stirring. If the spoon turns black, the mushrooms -should not be eaten. - -After they have come to a boil, take them off the fire; drain them, and -when cool, chop them small. To a pint or more of the minced mushrooms, -allow six or seven eggs. Beat the eggs till very light and thick, -(omitting the whites of two,) and then mix in, gradually, the mushrooms, -stirring the whole very hard. Put three ounces of fresh butter into a -hot omelet pan, or a _small_ frying-pan; place it over the fire and stir -the butter as it melts. When it has boiled hard, put in the omelet -mixture, and as it fries, stir it till it begins to set. Do not turn the -omelet; but brown the top by holding close above it a red-hot shovel. -When done, drain off the butter, fold over or double the omelet, and -serve it up immediately on a hot dish. - -In gathering mushrooms, those that are fit to eat may be known by their -being of a pale pearl color, or of a grayish white, instead of what is -called a dead white; and the underside of the flap or head (if good) is -of a light pink, or a pinkish salmon color. The best mushrooms grow on -uplands, or in high open fields where the air is pure and good, and they -should be gathered early in the morning before the dew is off. All that -are found in low swampy ground, or in the woods, or under large trees, -are poisonous. - - -SCOLLOPED TOMATOS.--Take fine large tomatos, perfectly ripe. Scald them -to loosen the skins, and then peel them. Cover the bottom of a deep dish -thickly with grated bread-crumbs, adding a few bits of fresh butter. -Then put in a layer of tomatos, seasoned slightly with a little salt and -cayenne, and some powdered mace or nutmeg. Cover them with another layer -of bread-crumbs and butter; then another layer of seasoned tomatos; and -proceed thus until the dish is full, finishing at the top with -bread-crumbs. Set the dish into a moderate oven, and bake it near three -hours. Tomatos require long cooking, otherwise they will have a raw -taste, that to most persons is unpleasant. - - -ASPARAGUS OMELET.--Take two bunches of the largest and finest asparagus. -Put it into a pot of boiling water, with a salt-spoonful of salt, and -boil it about twenty-five minutes, or till perfectly tender. Then drain -it, and chop small all the green part. Beat four eggs very light, and -add to them a wine-glass of cream. Mix the chopped asparagus thoroughly -with the egg and cream, adding a salt-spoon of salt, and a very little -cayenne. Melt a large slice of fresh butter in a frying-pan over the -fire; and when it has boiled, and the bubbling has ceased, put in the -mixture, and fry it till light and firm. Then slip it from the -frying-pan to a hot dish, and fold it over. - -For a soft omelet, put the mixture into a skillet with a piece of fresh -butter. Let it stew slowly for ten minutes. Lay a thin slice of buttered -toast in the bottom of a hot dish, and cut the toast into small squares, -but let them remain close together. With a spoon heap the soft omelet -upon the toast, and serve it up. - -Any omelet mixture may be kept soft by stewing instead of frying it, and -it will be found more wholesome. - -Before buttering the toast dip it a minute in hot water. - - -STEWED PEAS.--Take young, tender, green peas, wash them, and put them -into a stew-pan, with sufficient fresh butter to keep them from burning, -_but no water_. Season them with a little black pepper, and a very -little salt. Set them over a moderate fire, and stir them about till the -butter is well mixed through them. Let them simmer till quite soft and -slightly broken; take off the lid occasionally, and give them a stir up -from the bottom. If you find them becoming too dry, add some more -butter. When done, drain off what superfluous butter may be about the -peas, and send them to table hot. They will be found excellent. - -To the taste of many persons, they will be improved by a lump or two of -loaf-sugar put in with the butter, and also by a few sprigs of mint, to -be removed before the peas go to table. - -Lima beans may be stewed in butter, as above; also, asparagus tops, cut -off from the white stalk. - - -LETTUCE PEAS.--Having washed four lettuces, and stripped off the outside -leaves, take their hearts, and (having chopped them well) put them into -a stew-pan with two quarts of young green peas, freshly shelled; a lump -or two of loaf-sugar; and three or four leaves of green mint minced as -finely as possible. Then put in four slices of cold ham, and a quarter -of a pound of butter divided into four bits, and rolled in flour; and -two table-spoonfuls of water. Add a little cayenne, and let the whole -stew for about twenty-five minutes, or till the peas are thoroughly -done. Next take out the ham, and add to the stew half a pint of cream. -Let it continue stewing five minutes longer. Then send it to table. - - -PLAIN LETTUCE PEAS.--Cover the bottom and sides of a stew-pan with large -fresh leaves taken from lettuces. Have ready the peas, which should be -young and green. To each quart of shelled peas allow two table-spoonfuls -of fresh butter, and a lump of loaf sugar. Add a very little pepper and -salt, and a sprig of green mint. Cover the pan closely, and let it stew -for half an hour, or till the peas are thoroughly done. Then take them -out from the lettuce leaves, and send only the peas to table. - - -TO STEW CARROTS.--Half-boil the carrots; then scrape them nicely, and -cut them into thick slices. Put them into a stew-pan with as much milk -as will barely cover them; a very little salt and pepper; and a sprig or -two of chopped parsley. Simmer them till they are perfectly tender. When -nearly done, add a piece of fresh butter rolled in flour. Send them to -table hot. Carrots require long cooking; longer than any other -vegetable. - -Parsnips and salsify may be stewed in the above manner, substituting a -little chopped celery for the parsley. - - -SPINACH.--Having peeled and washed the spinach very nicely, put it into -a _bain marie_, or inside kettle, without any water, and cover it -closely. Pour the water into the outside kettle, and you may hurry the -boiling by throwing a handful of salt in the outside tin, taking care -that none of the salt gets into the inside. When the spinach is well -stewed, take it up and drain it without squeezing or pressing, as that -will make it tough and dry. Then chop it small, and add some hard-boiled -eggs, also chopped. Season it with pepper and fresh butter, stir it well -together, return it to the kettle, and let it stew a quarter of an hour -or more. Serve it up with buttered toast and poached eggs laid upon it. - -Spinach being very watery, should always be _stewed_ rather than boiled. -If you have no _bain marie_, the water that remains about the spinach, -after it has been washed, will suffice to stew it slowly. - -Spinach juice, for coloring green, must be strained, and boiled -slightly. You can obtain plenty of juice by pounding the leaves. - - -TO PREPARE CUCUMBERS.--Let the cucumbers be full-grown, but not in the -least yellow or hard. They are then only fit to be saved for seed. Lay -the cucumbers in a pan of cold water for an hour or more, or till it is -nearly time to send them to table, being careful not to set them in the -sun. Have ready another pan of fresh water, (very cold) and having -pared the cucumbers, slice them into it. Transfer them to a deep china -or white-ware dish. Season them with vinegar, pepper, salt, and a little -salad oil, taking care not to use too much salt. When there is no -dislike to onions, peel and slice a few that are mild, and mix them with -the cucumbers. It is usual now, at the best tables, to have the onions -in a small separate dish, (sliced with vinegar and pepper) to be eaten -by those that like them, and omitted by those who do not. Onions, (and -also salad oil) are said to render cucumbers more wholesome. - -Tomatos (raw) are frequently sliced, seasoned, and sent to table in the -manner of cucumbers. Tomatos are always wholesome. - - -STEWED CUCUMBERS.--Pare six fine fresh cucumbers. Cut each of them -lengthways into four pieces; lay them for an hour in a pan of cold -water. Take a clean stew-pan, and place in its bottom two -table-spoonfuls of good fresh butter. Then put in the slices of -cucumber, and sprinkle them slightly with a very little pepper. Add two -table-spoonfuls of cold water. Set the pan over a moderate fire, and let -the cucumbers stew slowly for half an hour or more, till they are well -cooked. Keep the pan closely covered, except when you have to remove the -lid to stir the stew. Serve them up hot, at breakfast, or as a side -dish, at dinner. - -Persons who have no objection to the taste of onions, will think the -cucumbers improved by the addition of the half of a moderate sized -onion, sliced thin and stewed with them. - - -A NICE WAY OF COOKING ASPARAGUS.--Where asparagus is plenty, there is no -better way of cooking it than the following. Take it as nearly of a size -as possible, wash it, and cut off the stalks very short, leaving them -not more than half an inch in length. Two quarts of water will be -sufficient to boil one quart of asparagus tops; allow a tea-spoonful of -salt to this quantity of water, and set it over the fire to boil. When -the water is boiling hard, put in the asparagus, and boil it fast for at -least half an hour. To see if it is done, take up two or three of the -largest pieces and taste them. While it is boiling, prepare two slices -of bread cut half an inch thick, and (having removed the crust) toast -the bread brown on both sides. Have ready a large jill of melted (or -drawn) fresh butter. When the asparagus is done, take it up with a -perforated skimmer, and lay it on a sieve to drain. Dip the slices of -toast (one at a time) first in the hot asparagus liquor, and then in the -melted butter. Lay the slices, side by side, in a deep dish, and cover -it with the asparagus, laid evenly over and round the toast. Then add -the remainder of the drawn butter, and send the asparagus to table hot, -in a covered dish. - -This is a much nicer way than that of boiling and serving it up with the -long stalks left on. And where you have asparagus in abundance, (for -instance in a country garden,) it may always be cooked in this manner. - -This is from the receipt of Mr. N. Darling, of New Haven. - - -ASPARAGUS OYSTERS.--Take two bundles of fine full-grown asparagus. Cut -off the green tops or points as far down as the white stalk. Take a -sufficient quantity of fresh oysters, the finest you can get at that -season. Put the asparagus tops into a stew-pan, with enough of oyster -liquor (previously strained) to stew them quite tender. Stew the oysters -themselves in another pan with some more of their liquor, seasoned with -pepper, mace, and nutmeg, adding a large piece of fresh butter, divided -into four, and each part rolled in flour. Do not let the oysters stew -more than five minutes, or they will become tough and shriveled. When -they are merely plumped, take them out and cut them up small, omitting -the gristle or hard part. Set the mixture over the fire for about five -minutes, stirring all the time. Have ready some slices of nice toast, -with all the crust pared off; the slices dipped for a minute in hot -water. Butter the toast, and cover with it the bottom of a deep dish, -and fill it with the mixture of asparagus and oysters. - - -ONION EGGS.--Boil a dozen eggs quite hard. Slice and fry in fresh butter -five or six onions. Slice (whites and yolks together) ten of the eggs, -reserving two for the seasoning. Drain the sliced onions, and lay them -on a dish with the sliced eggs placed upon them. Cover the dish, and -keep it hot. Take the two remaining eggs, grate the yolks, and mix them -with cream and grated nutmeg, and a very little cayenne. Put this -mixture into a very small sauce-pan, give it one boil up, pour it over -the eggs and onions, and send it to table hot. For those who have no -objection to onions this is a nice side dish. - - -EGG BALLS.--Boil eight eggs till quite hard, and when done, throw them -directly into cold water. Then put the yolks into a mortar, and pound -them to a paste, moistening them as you proceed with the beaten yolks of -three _raw_ eggs, seasoned with as much salt as will lie _flat_ upon a -shilling, and a little cayenne, and powdered nutmeg and mace. Mix the -whole well together, and make it up into small round balls. Throw them -into mock-turtle soup, or into stewed terrapin, about two minutes before -you take it up. - - -CURRY BALLS.--Take a sufficiency of finely-grated bread-crumbs; -hard-boiled yolk of egg, grated; fresh butter, and a little curry -powder. Pound the whole in a mortar, moistening it with raw yolk of egg -(well-beaten) as you proceed. Make it into small balls, and add them to -stewed chicken or rabbit, about five minutes before you take it up. - - -TOMATO PASTE.--Scald and peel as many ripe tomatos as will fill a large, -deep, stone jar. Set them into a warm oven for an hour. Then skim off -the watery liquid that has risen to the top, and press and squeeze the -tomatos in a sieve. Afterwards add salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and -powdered nutmeg, to your taste; and to every quart of tomatos allow a -half a pint of cider vinegar. Stew the whole slowly in a porcelain -kettle for three hours, (stirring it frequently from the bottom,) till -it becomes a smooth, thick paste. Then put it into small jars or -glasses, and cover it closely, pasting paper over each. It is an -excellent sauce, at the season when fresh tomatos are not to be had, and -is very good to thicken soup. - - -DRIED OCHRAS.--Take fine large fresh ochras; cut them into thin, round -slices; string them on threads, and hang them up in festoons to dry in -the store-room. Before using, they must be soaked in water during -twenty-four hours. They will then be good (with the addition of tomato -paste) to boil in soup or gumbo. - - -BEEF GUMBO.--Put into a large stew-pan some pieces of the lean of fresh -beef, cut up into small bits, and seasoned with a little pepper and -salt. Add sliced ochras and tomatos, (either fresh or dried ochras and -tomato paste.) You may put in some sliced onions. Pour on water enough -to cover it well. Let it boil slowly, (skimming it well,) till -everything is reduced to rags. Then strain and press it through a -cullender. Have ready a sufficiency of toasted bread, cut into dice. Lay -it in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the strained gumbo upon it. - - -TO BOIL OCHRAS.--For boiling, the ochras should be young and small. Wash -them, and cut off a small piece from each end. Boil them till very -tender throughout. Then drain them well, and transfer them to a deep -dish. Lay among them some bits of fresh butter, and season them with -pepper. Cover the dish, that the butter may be warm and melt the sooner. -Or you may make a sauce of half a pint of milk boiled, and when it has -come to a boil enrich with a quarter of a pound of very good fresh -butter, divided into four pieces; each piece rolled in a little flour, -the butter stirred in gradually and smoothly, as soon as the milk is -taken off the fire. Pour this sauce over the dish of ochras, and keep it -covered till it has gone to table. - -We prefer the first way, putting the bit of butter cold into the hot -ochras, with either milk or flour, and letting the butter melt -gradually, in the manner of green beans. You may boil with them a small -piece of very good bacon, removing when the ochras are taken off the -fire. Season with pepper. - - -ONIONS.--The best onions for cooking are the white or silver-skinned. -The red-skinned are generally strong and coarse. Shalots are very small -and delicate. Some sorts of large onions are milder and nicer than those -of middle size, and some that are very small have a powerful taste and -smell. The outer skin of most onions should be peeled entirely, and the -ends cut off. All onions are the better for boiling, before they are -cooked for any other purpose. Put them into a stew-pan with cold water, -and when they have come to a boil pour off that water, and replace it -with fresh cold also. Boil them slowly till quite tender all through, -which will not be in less than half an hour; more, if they are large. -When done, drain them well, dish them, and pour over them some nice -melted butter. - -_To Stew Onions._--Peel, slice them, and stew them in milk, enriched -with butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with a little cayenne and a -few blades of mace. - -_To Roast Onions._--Select fine large onions; do not peel them, but -place them in a bake-pan, and set them in an oven. Bake them slowly till -tender all through. When done, peel off the outer skin, and send them -hot to table, to eat with pepper and cold butter. - -They are very good when covered up and roasted under hot ashes, taking -care that they are done quite through to the heart. - - -TO BOIL GREEN PEAS.--When the peas are shelled, wash them in a pan of -cold water. Put on the peas in cold water, (a little salted) and let -them boil very fast. If nice peas, they will generally be done in a -quarter of an hour after beginning to boil. When simmering, add to them -a lump or a spoonful of loaf-sugar, and a sprig of fresh green mint, -(half a dozen leaves) having first ascertained if mint is not disliked -by any person who is to eat of the peas. To some the taste and odor of -mint is very agreeable, to others very disgusting, as is the case with -onions, and many other things that are liked by the majority. - -When the peas are all soft or tender, take out the mint, drain the peas -through a cullender till not a drop of water is left among them; -transfer them to a deep dish, mix into them some of the best fresh -butter, and sprinkle them with pepper. Cover them immediately, and send -them to table hot. - - -STEWED PEAS.--Having prepared the peas as above, put them into a -stew-pan without any water. Mix among them plenty of bits of nice fresh -butter, sufficient to cook them. Let them stew slowly in the butter till -they are quite soft, stirring them up from the bottom frequently. Drain -and dish them. They will be found very fine--better than if boiled in -water. Peas should not be stewed this way, except in places where plenty -of good _fresh_ butter is to be easily obtained. - - -GREEN PEAS.--The largest and finest peas are what the English call -marrowfat. The sugar pea is next. All green peas for boiling should be -young and tender, but not so young as to be tasteless or insipid. As a -general rule, nearly every article of food is best when it has just -attained its full growth and ripeness; after that period the older it is -the worse. Peas, so old as to be hard and yellow, are unfit to eat. In -some ultra economical houses, good peas are things unknown. They are not -bought in spring or early summer while young and fresh, but are never -thought cheap enough till they become hard and yellow. Afterwards, when -they reach the cheap state, a quantity are bought low, and put into jars -not to be touched till next spring, when they are boiled, (with great -difficulty, for they never become soft,) and _attempted_ to be passed -off "as this year's fresh peas"--and by the time the family have gotten -through with _them_, "this year's young peas" have become old. Do not -believe (for it is untrue,) that any eatable can be kept in _all_ its -genuine freshness and original flavor, by merely secluding them -entirely from air. They will not spoil or decompose if skillfully -managed; but they _have not exactly_ their natural taste and -consistence. It is better for those who _never make pickles or -preserves_, to wait for fresh vegetables or fruit, till they are -actually in market--or, if put up in jars, to add something more than -parboiling and seclusion from the air. Vinegar, salt, sugar, spice and -alcohol, will be found the grand and universal articles for securing the -goodness of nearly all eatables. Without some of these along with them, -things that have not spoiled while secluded from air, will surely spoil -almost as soon as the jars are opened, and the external air admitted to -them. - - -GREEN OR STRING BEANS.--Take young and tender beans, the seeds just -forming in the pods. Take off the string with a knife, leaving no bits -of string adhering to the beans, either at top or bottom. Do not split -them. Cut each bean into three pieces, _not more_, and as you cut them -throw them into a pan of cold water, kept beside you for the purpose. -The old-fashioned way is now obsolete of cutting them into dice or -diamonds, or of splitting them. The more they are cut up (beside the -trouble and time wasted,) the more the water gets through them when -cooking; the more tasteless they become, and the more difficult they are -to drain. We have never met with beans that, when cut small, had not a -puddle of greasy water in the bottom of the dish, and sometimes the -water was all through the dish, and the beans floating in it. Shame on -such bean-cooking! When the beans are all ready for the pot, throw them -into boiling water very slightly salted, and they will generally be done -in half an hour after they have come to a boil. Transfer them to a -sieve; and press, and drain them well, till no water is left about them. -Then put them into a deep dish, mix them with fresh butter, and dredge -them with black pepper. - - -LIMA BEANS.--Shell the lima beans into a pan of cold water. Let them lie -in it an hour. Put them in boiling water, little more than enough to -cover them, and boil them till soft and tender. When done, drain and -serve them up in a deep dish, adding among them a good piece of butter. -The Lima beans now raised in North America have become coarse and white, -requiring a renewal of fresh stock or new seeds from Peru. They will -then be green and delicate again, as formerly. - - -SWEET POTATOS.--Choose the sweet potatos large, and nearly of the same -size, then you can either boil or roast them. When small they should -always be boiled; as, when baked or roasted, the skin becomes so thick -and hard, that it takes up nearly the whole potato. Wash them very -clean, and cut off a bit from each end. Put them into a large pot of -boiling water without salt, and boil them steadily for at least an -hour. Probe them with a narrow-bladed sharp knife, and if it does not -easily penetrate all through the largest potato, (in at one side and out -at the other) continue the boiling till all are soft throughout. Then -take them up, peel them, and keep them warm till sent to table. - -_To Bake Sweet Potatos_ they should all be large. Wash them, dry them, -and cut off the ends. Then bake them in an oven, lying side by side, not -piling one on another. Or else (which is better) roast them in hot -ashes. They will not be done in less than an hour and a half, perhaps -longer. Then wipe them clean, and serve them up in the skins. Eat them -from the skins, with cold butter and a tea-spoon. - -_To Stew Sweet Potatos._--Wash and wipe them. Then scrape off the skins -with a sharp knife. Split them, and cut them into long pieces. Stew them -with fresh pork, veal, or beef; first putting at the bottom a very -little butter or water to start them, and then the gravy of the meat -will suffice for cooking them--skimming it well. Water to stew should be -hot. - -_Mashed Sweet Potatos_ are very nice. When well boiled, mash them -smoothly with a potato beetle. Mix them with fresh butter, and then stir -them well, or beat them with a large wooden spoon to render them light. -Afterwards, you may make them into round thick cakes, and touch the -surface of every one with pepper--red or black. This is a breakfast dish -for company. - - -BOILED TURNIPS.--Have all your turnips nearly of the same size. Pare -them; and if large cut them in half. Put them into boiling water, very -slightly salted, and keep them closely covered. Twenty minutes will boil -them if very small and young; their flavor is then very fine. -Afterwards, according to their size, they will require of gentle -boiling, from three-quarters to a full hour. Keep them boiling till, on -trying them with a fork, you find them perfectly tender all through. -Then take them up, drain them well, and pour melted butter over them; -touch the top of each with a spot of black pepper. If very old and -spongy, they are only fit for the pig barrel. It is said that if boiled -in their skins, (though requiring a much longer time to cook well) they -have a fine flavor, and are less watery. You can try it. - -If the turnips are to be mashed, cut them into small pieces, boil them -very soft, and drain and squeeze them till all the water is pressed out. -Then mash them very smooth. Transfer them to a deep dish, and mix them -with a _moderate portion_ of fresh butter. Turnips are generally served -with too much butter. Season them with pepper. When sent to table take -care not to set them in a sunny place, as it will give them a bad taste. - -Turnips, baked in an oven, are very good--for a change. - - -SYDNEY SMITH'S SALAD-DRESSING.--Have ready two well-boiled potatos, -peeled and rubbed through a sieve; they will give peculiar smoothness -to the mixture. Also, a very small portion of raw onion, not more than a -_quarter_ of a tea-spoonful, (as the presence of the onion is to be -scarcely hinted,) and the pounded yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix -these ingredients on a deep plate with one tea-spoonful of salt, one of -made mustard, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and one table-spoonful -of vinegar. Add, lastly, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy; mash, and -mix the whole together, (using a boxwood spoon) and see that all the -articles are thoroughly amalgamated. Having cut up a sufficiency of -lettuce, that has been well washed in cold water, and drained, add to it -the dressing immediately before dinner, mixing the lettuce through it -with a boxwood fork. - -This salad dressing was invented by the Rev. Sydney Smith, whose genius -as a writer and a wit is well known on both sides the Atlantic. If -_exactly_ followed, it will be found very fine on trial; no peculiar -flavor predominating, but excellent as a whole. The above directions are -taken from a manuscript receipt given by Mr. Smith to an American -gentleman then in London. - -In preparing this, or any other salad-dressing, take care not to use -that excessively pungent and deleterious combination of drugs which is -now so frequently imposed upon the public, as _the best white wine -vinegar_. In reality, it has no vinous material about it; and it may be -known by its violent and disagreeable sharpness, which overpowers and -destroys the taste (and also the substance) of whatever it is mixed -with. It is also very unwholesome. Its color is always pale, and it is -nearly as clear as water. No one should buy or use it. The first quality -of _real_ cider vinegar is good for all purposes. - -The above receipt may be tried for lobster dressing. - -A Spanish proverb says, that for compounding a _good_ salad, four -persons are required--a spend-thrift for oil; a miser for vinegar; a man -of judgment for salt; and a madman for stirring the dressing. - - -FINE CHICKEN SALAD.--Having skinned a pair of cold fowls, remove the -fat, and carve them as if for eating; cut all the flesh entirely from -the bones, and either mince it or divide it into small shreds. Mix with -it a little smoked tongue or cold ham, grated rather than chopped. Have -ready one or two fine fresh lettuces, picked, washed, drained, and cut -small. Put the cut lettuce on a dish, (spreading it evenly,) or into a -large bowl, and place upon it the minced chicken in a close heap in the -centre. For the dressing, mix together the following ingredients, in the -proportion of the yolks of four eggs well beaten, a tea-spoonful of -powdered white sugar, a salt-spoon of cayenne; (no salt if you have ham -or tongue with the chicken,) two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, six -table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and five of celery vinegar. Stir this -mixture well: put it into a small sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and -let it boil three minutes,(not more,) stirring it all the time. Then set -it to cool. When quite cold, cover with it thickly, the heap of chicken -in the centre of the salad. To ornament it, have ready half a dozen or -more, hard-boiled eggs, which, after the shell is peeled off, must be -thrown directly into a pan of cold water to prevent them from turning -blue. Cut each egg (white and yolk together) lengthways into four long -pieces of equal size and shape; lay the pieces upon the salad all round -the heap of chicken, and close to it; placing them so as to follow each -other round in a slanting direction, something in the form of a circular -wreath of leaves. Have ready, also, some very red cold beet, cut into -small cones or points all of equal size; arrange them in a circle upon -the lettuce, outside of the circle of cut egg. To be decorated in this -manner, the salad should be placed in a dish rather than a bowl. In -helping it, give each person a portion of every thing, and they will mix -them together on their plates. - -This salad should be prepared immediately before dinner or supper; as -standing long will injure it. The colder it is the better. - - -CARROTS.--Having washed the carrots, and scraped off the outer skin with -a sharp knife, or taken off a very thin paring, split them a few inches -down, leaving a long cleft in the upper half only, and put them on to -cook in plenty of boiling water, with a little salt in it. There is no -table vegetable that needs more boiling than a carrot. Small young -carrots require at least half an hour. If large, they must boil from one -to two hours, according to their size. When you find them tender -throughout, dish them, with melted butter poured round them. They are -eaten plain, only with boiled beef or boiled mutton. They are often -added to soups and stews, when they must be put in long before the other -vegetables. For soups and stews the nicest way is to grate them (before -boiling,) on a coarse grater. This way they improve both the taste and -color. - -Carrots are very nice, sliced thin after boiling, put into a sauce-pan, -with bits of butter dredged with flour, seasoned with pepper, and stewed -soft without any water. - - -PARSNIPS.--Scrape the parsnips, and split them half way down. Put them -into boiling water with a little salt. Parsnips require less boiling -than carrots; and, according to their size, will take from half an hour -to an hour. Skim the water while they are boiling. When quite tender -take them up, drain them, dish them, and pour melted butter over them. -They are especially eaten with corned pork, or salted cod; but are good -with various things. They are excellent stewed with fresh beef, or fresh -pork, for a plain dinner. - -_Fried Parsnips_ make a nice breakfast dish. They must first be -parboiled; then split, and cut into long pieces, and fried brown in -fresh butter, or in nice dripping of veal or beef. - -_Baked Parsnips._--Split and parboil them. Then place them in a large -dish. Lay among them some bits of fresh butter, and bake them brown. Eat -them with any sort of roast meat. - -_Parsnip Fritters._--Boil and peel half a dozen large parsnips, and then -split and cut them in pieces. Make a nice batter, allowing four beaten -eggs to a pint of milk, and four table-spoonfuls of flour. Have ready -over the fire, a frying-pan with boiling lard. Put in a large spoonful -of batter; upon that a piece of parsnip, and cover it with another -spoonful of batter. Proceed thus till you have used up the parsnips. -When done, drain them from the lard, and serve them hot at breakfast or -dinner. - - -BEETS.--Beets must be washed very clean, but not scraped, trimmed, or -cut till after they are boiled. Put them on in boiling water; and, -according to their size, boil them steadily from one hour and a half, to -two hours and a half, but they must not be probed (to ascertain if they -are tender all through,) but pinched with the fingers. Then peel off the -skins, and trim them neatly. Hold the beet in a pan of cold water while -you peel it. Do it quickly. Serve them up either split or sliced, with -melted butter poured over them, and seasoned with pepper. Or else they -may be sliced thick, (allowing them to get cold,) and spiced vinegar -poured over them. Red beets are usually dressed with vinegar; the white -or pale ones with melted butter. - -_Baked Beets_ have a finer flavor, and are more nutritious than when -boiled. Wash and wipe them dry, but do not skin or cut them till after -cooking. They must be thoroughly done before they are taken out of the -oven, and then pared and trimmed. According to their size they will -require from four to six hours baking. Their blood-red color makes them -ornamental to the table; but when cooked in soups or stews they add -little to the taste, which is overpowered by that of other ingredients. - - -SQUASHES OR CYMLINGS.--See that the squashes are not turning old, and -hardening. Wash them, and cut them into four pieces each; but do not -split them. Put them on in boiling water, with a little salt. Boil them -steadily till quite tender throughout. Then take them up, and mash or -drain them through a cullender, pressing them with a broad short-handled -wooden ladle. All the water (of which there will be a profusion,) must -be entirely squeezed out. Serve them up very dry, and smoothly and -evenly mashed, having first mixed with them a _very little butter_; and -season them with very little pepper. Much butter gives them a -disagreeable taste and consistence, and the butter should be fresh and -good. It is better to mash squashes, turnips, pumpkins, &c., without any -butter, than to use that which is salt and bad. The flat white ones are -the best summer squashes; the striped green are more watery; the cashaw, -or yellow winter squash, is best of all, and grows well in the New -England states, from whence, as it keeps well all winter, it is often -brought in barrels. Every family should get a barrel of winter squashes -from Boston. They do not thrive in the middle States. In New Jersey and -Pennsylvania, they cannot be raised even from the best yankee seed, -turning pumpkinish the next year, and afterwards becoming quite -pumpkins, and very bad ones too. But when raised in their native soil -and climate nothing of the squash kind is equal to them. They are very -dry and sweet, and of a rich yellow color. Take them out of the barrel, -and keep them far apart on the shelves or floor of a dry pantry. - - -STEWED PUMPKIN.--No pumpkin is too large to be good, but they may be too -old. Cut a good deep-colored pumpkin in half, and empty out all the -seeds, &c. Then cut it into pieces, and pare them. Put the pieces of -pumpkin into a pot with barely sufficient water to keep them from -burning. When they are thoroughly done or soft all through, take them -up; drain, mash, and press them through a cullender. They must be _very_ -dry. Put the stewed pumpkin into a dish, and mix it with a small portion -of butter. Season it with black pepper, and eat it with boiled corned -beef, or corned pork, or bacon. - -Stewed pumpkin is chiefly used for pies and puddings. - - -YANKEE PUMPKIN PUDDING.--Take a pint of stewed pumpkin. Mix together a -pint of _West India_ molasses and a pint of milk, adding two large -table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of ground -ginger. Beat three eggs very light, and stir them, gradually, into the -milk and molasses. Then, by degrees, stir in the stewed pumpkin. Put it -into a deep dish, and bake it without a crust. This is a good farm-house -pudding, and _equally_ good for any healthy children. - -For a large family, double the quantities of ingredients--that is, take -a quart of milk, a quart of molasses, four spoonfuls of brown sugar, -four spoonfuls of ginger, six eggs, and a quart of stewed pumpkin. - -You had best have at hand _more than a quart_ of pumpkin, lest when -mixed it should not hold out. This pudding is excellent made of winter -squash. - - -STEWED MUSHROOMS.--Peel and wash a quart of very fresh mushrooms, and -cut off all the stems. Button mushrooms are best; but if you can only -procure large ones, quarter them. Sprinkle them slightly with salt and -pepper, and put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of nice -fresh butter, cut in pieces and slightly dredged with flour. Keep the -lid closely covered all the time. When quite tender, put the mushrooms -into a deep dish, in the bottom of which is laid a nice toast that has -had all the crust pared off, and been dipped for a minute in hot water, -and slightly buttered. Serve up the mushrooms closely covered. They -require no seasoning. - - -BAKED MUSHROOMS.--Take large fine fresh mushrooms. Peel them and remove -the stems. Lay them on their backs in a large dish, (not letting them -touch each other) and put into each mushroom, (as in a cup) a bit of the -best fresh butter. Set the dish in an oven and bake them. Send them to -table in the same dish; or transfer them to another, with a large toast -at the bottom. There is no better way of cooking mushrooms than this. - -If you cannot procure good butter, cook them in nice olive oil. - - -TO BOIL INDIAN CORN.--Corn for boiling should be full grown, but young -and tender, and the grains soft and milky. If its grains are becoming -hard and yellow, it is too old for cooking. Strip the ears of their -leaves and the silk. Put them into a large pot of boiling water, and -boil it rather fast for half an hour or more, in proportion to its size -and age. When done, take it up, drain it, dish it under a cover, or -napkin, and serve it up hot. Before eating it, rub each ear with salt -and pepper, and then spread it with butter. Epicures in corn consider it -sweetest when eaten off the cob. And so it is; but _before company_ few -persons like to hold an ear of indian corn in their hands, and bite the -grains off the cob with their teeth. Therefore, it is more frequently -cut off the cob into a dish; mixed with salt, pepper, and butter, and -helped with a spoon. - -It is said that young green corn will boil sufficiently in ten minutes, -(putting it, _of course_, into a pot of boiling water.) Try it. - -_Another way._--Having pulled off the silk, boil the corn without -removing any but the outside leaves. With the leaves or husk on, it will -require a longer time to cook, but is sweeter and more nutritious. - - -HOMINY.--Hominy is white indian corn, shelled from the cob, divested of -the outer skin by scalding in hot lye, and then winnowed and dried. It -is perfectly white. Having washed it through two or three waters, pour -boiling water on it; cover it, and let it soak all night, or for several -hours. Then put it into a pot or sauce-pan, allow two quarts of water to -each quart of hominy, and boil it till perfectly soft. Then drain it, -put it into a deep dish, add some butter to it, and send it to table -hot, (and _uncovered_,) to eat with any sort of meat; but particularly -with corned beef or pork. What is left may be made next day into thick -cakes, and fried in butter. To be _very good_, hominy should boil four -or five hours. - - -CAROLINA GRITS OR SMALL HOMINY.--The small-grained hominy must be washed -and boiled in the same manner as the large, only allow rather less water -for boiling. For instance, put a pint and a half of water to a quart of -small hominy. Drain it well, send it to table in a deep dish _without a -cover_, and eat it with butter and sugar, or molasses. If covered after -boiling, the vapor will condense within the lid, and make the hominy -thin and watery. - - -SAMP.--This is indian corn skinned, and then pounded or ground till it -is still smaller and finer than the Carolina grits. It must be cooked -and used in the same manner. It is very nice eaten with cream and sugar. - -For invalids it may be made thin, and eaten as gruel. - - -HOMINY CAKES.--A pint of small hominy, or Carolina grits; a pint of -white indian meal, sifted; a salt-spoonful of salt, three large -table-spoonfuls of fresh butter; three eggs or three table-spoonfuls of -strong yeast; a quart of milk. Having washed the small hominy, and left -it soaking all night, boil it soft, drain it, and while hot mix it with -the indian meal; adding the salt, and the butter. Then mix it gradually -with the milk, and set it away to cool. Beat the eggs very light, and -add them gradually to the mixture. The whole should make a thick batter. -Then bake them on a griddle, in the manner of buckwheat cakes, rubbing -or scraping the griddle always before you put on a fresh cake. Trim off -their edges nicely, and send them to table hot. Eat them with butter. - -Or you may bake them in muffin rings. - -If you prefer making these cakes with yeast, you must begin them -earlier, as they will require time to rise. The yeast should be strong -and fresh. If _not_ very strong, use four table-spoonfuls instead of -two. Cover the pan, set it in a warm place; and do not begin to bake -till it is well risen, and the surface of the mixture is covered with -bubbles. - - -CORN PORRIDGE.--Take young corn, and cut the grains from the cob. -Measure it, and to each heaping pint of corn allow not quite a quart of -milk. Put the corn and milk into a pot, stir them well together, and -boil them till the corn is perfectly soft. Then add some bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour, and let it boil five minutes longer. Stir in -at the last, four beaten yolks of eggs, and in three minutes remove it -from the fire. Take up the porridge and send it to table hot, and stir -some fresh butter into it. You may add sugar and nutmeg. - - -CORN OYSTERS.--Three dozen ears of large young indian corn, six eggs; -lard and butter in equal portions for frying. The corn must be young and -soft. Grate it from the cob as fine as possible, and dredge it with -wheat flour. Beat very light the six eggs, and mix them gradually with -the corn. Then let the whole be well incorporated by hard beating. Add a -salt-spoon of salt. - -Have ready, in a frying pan, a sufficient quantity of lard and fresh -butter mixed together. Set it over the fire till it is boiling hot, and -then put in portions of the corn mixture, so as to form oval cakes about -three inches long, and nearly an inch thick. Fry them brown, and send -them to table hot. In taste they will be found to have a singular -resemblance to fried oysters, and are universally liked if properly -done. They make nice side-dishes at dinner, and are very good at -breakfast. - - -SUMMER SACCATASH.--String a quarter of a peck of young green beans, and -cut each bean into three pieces, (not more,) and do not split them. Have -by you a pan of cold water, and throw the beans into it as you cut them. -Have ready over the fire a pot or sauce-pan of boiling water; put in the -beans, and boil them hard near twenty minutes. Afterwards take them up, -and drain them well through a cullender. Take half a dozen ears of young -but full-grown indian corn, (or eight or nine if they are not all large) -and cut the grains down from the cob. Mix together the corn and the -beans, adding a very small tea-spoonful of salt, and boil them about -twenty minutes. Then take up the saccatash, drain it well through a -sieve, put it into a deep dish, and while hot mix in a large piece of -butter, (at least the size of an egg,) add some pepper, and send it to -table. It is generally eaten with salted or smoked meat. - -Fresh Lima beans are excellent cooked in this manner, with green corn. -They must be boiled for half an hour or more, before they are cooked -with the corn. - -Dried beans and dried corn will do very well for saccatash, but they -must be soaked all night before boiling. The water poured on them for -soaking should be hot. - - -WINTER SACCATASH.--This is made of dried shelled beans and hard corn, -soaked over night in separate pans, and boiling water poured over them -in the morning, after pouring off the first water. Then boil both -together till they are _quite soft_. Drain them dry in a sieve, put them -into a deep dish, and mix in a large piece of butter, seasoned with -pepper. This is a good accompaniment to corned pork or beef. The meat -must be boiled in a separate pot. - - -CAROLINA WAY OF BOILING RICE.--Pick the rice carefully, and wash it -through two or three cold waters till it is quite clean. Then (having -drained off all the water through a cullender,) put the rice into a pot -of boiling water, with a very little salt, allowing as much as a quart -of water to half a pint of rice. Boil it twenty minutes or more. Then -pour off the water, draining the rice as dry as possible. Lastly, set it -on hot coals with the lid off, that the steam may not condense upon it -and render the rice watery. Keep it drying thus for a quarter of an -hour. Put it into a deep dish, and loosen and toss it up from the bottom -with two forks, one in each hand, so that the grains may appear to stand -alone. - - -TOMATOS.--Tomatos require long cooking; otherwise they will have a raw -taste, and be quite too acid. Take fine tomatos that are quite ripe, put -them into a pan, and scald them in very hot water. Let them remain for -ten minutes, or till you can peel them without scalding your hands. -Drain them through a sieve. You may either press out all the seeds, -(retaining only the pulp or liquid,) or leave the seeds in, squeezing -the tomatos slightly. Put them into a stew-pan, which must on no account -be of copper, as the acid of the tomatos will render it poisonous. We -knew a lady who died in agonies from eating tomatos cooked in a copper -vessel that had the tinning partly worn off. If the tin inside is -indispensable, (which it is) why have any copper about it? A vessel of -_double_ block tin only, will last as long, and stand the fire as well -as if there was copper inside. For all stews, an iron pan, lined with -delft (or what is called porcelain or enamel) is excellent. Best of all -for stewing tomatos, and many other things, is a _bain marie_, or double -kettle, with the water outside, in the outer kettle. - -Having nearly filled the stew-pan with the tomatos, (cut up, if they are -large) add a little salt and pepper, a piece of fresh butter dredged -with flour, and (if approved) a very little chopped onion. If you have -ready-boiled onions at hand, take one or two of them and mince it fine. -Add to the tomatos some powdered white sugar to lessen the excessive -acid. Put but very few bread-crumbs--if too many, they will weaken the -taste. Tomatos are an improvement to every kind of plain soups, and may -be added, with advantage, after the soup is in the tureen. The cooking -of tomatos should be commenced at least three hours before dinner. Put -no water with them--their own juice is sufficient. - -Many persons like tomatos raw, sliced like cucumbers, and seasoned with -vinegar and pepper. - - -TO KEEP TOMATO PULP.--Having boiled them till entirely dissolved, -(adding a little salt and pepper) press and strain them through a sieve, -pour the liquor into pint or half-pint bottles, (which must be perfectly -clean) and stand the bottles up in a large iron pot or oven, with a -layer of straw in the bottom. Fill up the pot with cold water, cork -them tightly, and let the water boil round the bottles for five hours. -As it boils away, fill up with more hot water. When you take them out, -put a spoonful of salad oil at the top of each bottle; seal the bottles -with rosin cement. This pulp will be good for tomato purposes till next -summer, if kept in a cool dry place. When you open a bottle use it fast, -or cork it again immediately. - - -BROILED TOMATOS.--Take the very largest and ripest tomatos. Wash, but do -not scald or peel them. Cut the tomatos _half_ apart on four sides, -extract the seeds, and fill each tomato with a nice forcemeat of -stuffing, made of bread-crumbs, butter, minced veal or pork, mace, -nutmeg, and sweet marjoram. Having stewed this stuffing in a sauce-pan, -(moistening it with tomato juice, or gravy) fill all the tomatos with -it, opening them out a little like the leaves of a tulip. Butter -slightly a heated gridiron, and broil them on it. Or, they may be baked -in an oven. - -This is a dish for company, either at dinner or breakfast. - - -BUTTON TOMATOS.--These are the very smallest tomatos, and are excellent -for pickling and preserving. If quite ripe, and free from blemishes, -they will keep very well in cold vinegar, and are the easiest done of -all pickles. There are two sorts of button tomatos, the red and the -yellow, both equally good. Wipe every tomato clean and dry, and put -them into small glass jars that have a cover. Fill the jars two-thirds -with the tomatos, and then fill up to the top with the best cider -vinegar. On the top put a table-spoonful of salad oil, and cover them -closely. They require nothing to secure their keeping well. But the -taste will be improved, by putting in with them, three very small thin -muslin bags, each containing mace, nutmeg, and ginger, broken small, but -not powdered. Lay one bag of spice at the bottom of the jar; one about -the middle, and one near the top. If done without spice, they are the -cheapest of all pickles. Do not put them into soups or stews; but eat -them cold with meat, like other pickles. - -If kegs of these tomatos were carried to sea, and liberally served out -to the crew, the scurvy would be less frequent, even on long voyages. - -Large whole tomatos would do for this purpose. We wish it were the -universal custom in ships to take out with them plenty of tomatos kept -in this way in vinegar. Tomato catchup is now much used for the army--so -it should be for the navy; not only for the sick, but for the well; to -keep them well. - - - - -BREAD, PLAIN CAKES, etc. - - -HINTS ON HEATING OVENS AND BAKING.--Brick ovens are generally heated -with dry fagots or small branches, or with light split wood. For baking -bread, the oven-wood must be heavier than for pies. A heap of wood -should be placed in the centre of the oven on the brick floor, and then -set on fire. While the wood is burning, the door of the oven must be -left open. When the wood is all burnt down, and reduced to a mass of -small red coals, the oven will be very hot. Then shovel out all the -coals and sweep the oven floor with a broom, till it is perfectly clean, -and entirely free from ashes. Try the heat within. For baking bread, the -floor of the oven should look red, and a little flour thrown in should -burn brown immediately. If you can hold your hand within the mouth of -the oven as long as you can distinctly count twenty, the heat is about -right. Pies, puddings, &c., require less heat. When a brick oven is -used, a peel, or large broad-bladed long-handled wooden shovel is -necessary for putting in the bread, pies, &c., placing them on the broad -or shovel-end of the peel, and slipping them off on the oven floor. Then -close up the door of the oven, and leave the things to bake. When done, -slip the peel beneath them, and hand them out on it. - -To bake in an Iron Dutch oven, (a large deep, cast-iron pan, with a -handle, a close-fitting lid, and standing on three or four feet,) you -must first stand the lid upright before a clear fire to heat the inside; -and it will be best if the oven itself is also stood up before the fire -for the same purpose. This should be done while the article to be baked -is preparing, that it may be put in as soon as it is ready. The oven may -be suspended to the crane, and hung over the fire, or it may be set on a -bed of hot wood coals in the corner of the hearth. As soon as the loaf -or pie is in, put on the lid of the oven, and cover it all over with hot -coals, replenishing it with more live coals as the baking proceeds. If -you find it too hot on the top, deaden it with ashes. If the oven stands -on the hearth, keep up the heat at the bottom, by additional live coals -placed beneath it. Whether the oven is hung over the fire, or stood on -the hearth, there must always be hot coals all over the lid, the hottest -near the edge. - -To bake on a griddle, you may either hang it over the fire, or set it -over hot coals on the hearth. Most griddles have feet. The fire must be -quite clear and bright, and free from smoke, or the cakes will be -blackened, and have a disagreeable taste. The griddle must be perfectly -clean; and while you are baking, it will require frequent scraping, with -a broad knife. If it is well scraped after every cake is taken off, it -will not want greasing, as there will be no stickiness. Otherwise, some -butter tied up in a clean rag and laid on a saucer, must be kept at hand -all the time, to rub over the griddle between the baking of each cake; -for butter, lard, or nice beef or veal dripping may be substituted, but -it will not be so fine. Never grease with mutton fat, as it will -communicate the taste of tallow. A bit of the fat of _fresh_ pork may -do, (stuck on a fork,) but salt pork will give the outside of the cakes -a disagreeable saltness, and therefore should not be used. - -A griddle may be placed in the oven of a hot stove. Some close stoves -have a hole in the top with a flat lid or cover, which lid can be used -as a griddle. - -The tin-reflecting ovens (with shelves for the pies and cakes) that are -used for baking in the summer, and that, having a furnace beneath, and a -chimney-pipe, can be set out of doors, so that the kitchen may not be -kept hot, are very good for things that will bake soon, and that do not -require what is called a strong, solid heat. But they are not effective -unless the inside is kept _very bright_; otherwise it will not reflect -the heat. The tin ovens should (as well as tin roasters) be cleaned -thoroughly and scoured bright with sand every time they are used. - -The art of baking with anthracite, (or any other mineral coal,) can only -be acquired by practice. The above hints on baking, refer exclusively to -wood fires. - -When a charcoal furnace is used for baking, stewing, or any sort of -cooking, it should either be set out in the open air, or the door of the -kitchen must be kept open all the time. The vapor of charcoal in a -close room is so deleterious as to cause death. - - -DRIED CORN MEAL YEAST CAKES.--Half a pound of fresh hops, four quarts of -water, a pint of wheat or rye flour, half a pint of strong fresh yeast -from the brewer or baker, three pints or more of indian meal. Boil half -a pound of fresh hops in four quarts of water, till the liquid is -reduced to two quarts. Strain it into a pan, and mix in sufficient wheat -flour to make a thin batter, adding half a pint of the best yeast you -can procure. Leave it to ferment; and when the fermentation is over, -stir in sufficient indian meal to make a moderately stiff dough. Cover -it, and set in a warm place to rise. When it has become very light, roll -it out into a square sheet an inch thick, and cut it into flat cakes, -about four inches square. Spread them out separately, on a large dish, -and let them dry slowly in a cool place where there is no sun. While -drying, turn them five or six times a day. When they are quite dry and -hard, put them, separately, into brown paper bags, and keep them in a -box closely covered, and in a place not the least damp. - -When you want them to use for yeast, dissolve in a little warm water one -or more of the cakes, in proportion to the quantity of bread you intend -making. When it is quite dissolved, stir it hard, thicken it with a -little wheat flour, cover it, and place it near the fire to rise, before -you use it. Then mix it with the flour, according to the usual manner -of making bread. One yeast cake is enough for two quarts of meal or -flour. - -This way of preserving yeast is very convenient for keeping through the -summer, or for conveying to a distance. - - -EXCELLENT HOME-MADE YEAST.--Yeast should always be kept in a glass -bottle or a stone jug, and never in earthen or metal. Before you make -fresh yeast, empty entirely the vessel that has contained the last; and -if of stone, scald it twice with boiling water, in which it will be well -to mix a little clear lye. Then rince it with cold water, till perfectly -clean. If you have not used lye in scalding it, dissolve some potash or -pearlash in the rinsing water, to remove any acidity that may linger -about the vessel, and may therefore spoil the new yeast. If you keep -your yeast in glass bottles, the water must be warm, but not hot; as -scalding water may crack them: also, melt some potash or pearlash in -this water. The vessel for keeping it being purified, proceed to make -your yeast. Have ready, in a kettle over the fire, two quarts of boiling -water; put into it a very large handful of hops, (as fine and fresh as -possible,) and let the water boil again with the hops in it for twenty -minutes more. Sift into a pan three pints of wheat flour. Strain the -liquor from the hops into a large bowl, and pour half of it hot over the -flour. Stir it well, and press out all the lumps till it is quite -smooth. Let the other half of the liquid stand till it is cool, and then -pour it gradually to the rest; mixing it well, by stirring as you -proceed. Then take half a pint of good strong yeast--brewer's or baker's -yeast, if you can get it fresh; if not, you must use some that has been -left from your last making, provided it is not the least sour; stir this -yeast into the mixture of hop water and flour, put it immediately into -your jug or bottles, and cork it loosely till the fermentation is over, -(which should be in an hour,) and it will then be fit for use. -Afterwards cork it tightly. It will keep better if you put a raisin or -two into the bottom of each bottle, before you pour in the fresh yeast. -Into a stone jug put half a dozen raisins. - -All yeast is better and more powerful for being fresh. It is better to -make it frequently, (the trouble being little,) than to risk its -becoming sour by endeavoring to keep it too long. When sour it becomes -weak and watery, and tastes and smells disagreeably, and will never make -light bread; besides, being very unwholesome. The acidity may be -somewhat corrected by stirring in some dissolved pearlash, saleratus, or -soda, immediately before the yeast is used; but it is better to have it -good and fresh, without the necessity of any corrective. Yeast should -always be kept in a cool place. - -Those who live in towns where there are breweries have no occasion to -make their own yeast during the brewing season, and in summer they can -every day supply themselves with fresh yeast from the baker's. It is -only in country places where there are neither brewers or bakers that it -is expedient to make it at home. For home-made yeast, we know the above -receipt to be excellent. - -Sweet cakes, buns, rusks, &c., require stronger and fresher yeast than -bread; the sugar will otherwise retard their rising. - - -INDIAN BREAD OR PONE.--Four quarts of indian meal sifted, a large half -pint of wheat flour, a table-spoonful of salt, half a pint of strong -fresh yeast, a quart of warm water. Sift into a large deep pan the -indian meal and the wheat flour, mixing them well. Make a hole in the -centre. The water must be warm, but not hot. Mix it with the yeast, and -pour them into the hole in the midst of the meal. Take a spoon, and with -it mix into the liquid enough of the surrounding meal to make a thin -batter, which you must stir till it is quite smooth, and free from -lumps. Then strew a handful of wheat flour over the surface, scattering -it thinly, so as to cover the whole. Warm a clean cloth, and lay it -folded over the top of the pan. Then set it in a warm place to rise, -nearer the fire in winter than in summer. When it is quite light, and -has risen so that the flour on the surface is cracked, strew on the -salt, and begin to form the whole mass into a dough; commencing round -the hole that contains the batter, and adding, gradually, sufficient -lukewarm water (which you must have ready for the purpose,) to mix it of -the proper consistence. When the whole is completely mixed, and the -batter in the centre is thoroughly incorporated with the dough, knead it -hard for at least half an hour. Then, having formed the dough into a -round lump in the middle of the pan, strew a little more flour thinly -over it. Cover it, and set it again in a warm place for half an hour. -Then flour your pasteboard, divide the dough equally, and make it into -two loaves. Have the oven ready. Put in the loaves directly, and bake -them about two hours or more. Indian meal requires always more baking -than wheat. When you take them out, it is well to wrap each loaf in a -clean, coarse towel, well sprinkled with cold water, and rolled up damp -till the bread is baked. Having thus wrapped up the loaves, stand them -on end to cool slowly. The damp cloths will prevent the crust from -hardening too much while the loaves are cooling. - -All indian bread, and every sort of indian cake, is best when quite -fresh. - -Excellent bread may be made of equal proportions of wheat, rye flour, -and indian corn; or of three parts wheat and one part indian. All bread -should be kept closely secluded from the air, wrapped in cloths, and put -away in boxes or baskets with tightly-fitting lids. - -Should you find the dough sour, (either from the heat of the weather, or -from standing too long,) you may recover it, by dissolving in a little -lukewarm water a tea-spoonful of pearlash, saleratus, or soda. Sprinkle -this water all over the dough. Then knead it in, so that it may be -dispersed throughout. Then put it into the oven as soon as possible; -first tasting the dough, to discover if the sourness is entirely -removed. If not, mix in a little more pearlash, and then taste it again. -Take care not to put in too much of any of these alkaline substances, -lest they communicate a disagreeable, soapy taste to the bread. - -When you buy corn meal, it will keep better if the whole is sifted as -soon as you get it. Avoid buying much at a time, unless you can keep it -in a very cool place. When sour, it is unfit to eat. Common indian meal -is much the best for use. - - -INDIAN RYE BREAD.--Two quarts of indian meal, two quarts of rye meal, -three pints of milk or water, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a pint of -strong fresh yeast. Having sifted the rye and indian meal in a large -pan, mix them well together, adding the salt. Boil the milk or water in -a sauce-pan, and when scalding hot pour it on the meal, and stir the -whole very hard. If too stiff, add a little more warm water. Let it -stand till it becomes only of a lukewarm heat, and then stir in the -yeast. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and knead it long and hard -for at least half an hour. Then cover the pan with a thick cloth that -has been previously warmed, and set it near the fire to rise. When the -dough is quite light, and cracked all over the top, take it out of the -pan; divide the mass in half, make it into two loaves, knead each loaf -well for ten minutes or more, and then cover and set them again near the -fire for about half an hour. By this time have the oven ready, put in -the loaves directly, and bake them at least an hour and a half. This -bread is considered very wholesome. - -Should you find the dough sour, you may rectify it by kneading in a -tea-spoonful of soda or pearlash, dissolved in a little warm water. - - -INDIAN WHEAT BREAD.--This is made in the above manner, substituting -wheat for rye flour. - -In any sort of home-made bread, (either white or brown) a handful or -more of indian meal will be found an improvement, rendering it moist and -sweet. - - -BOSTON RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.--Two quarts of indian meal, two quarts of -rye meal, half a pint of strong fresh yeast, half a pint of West India -molasses, a small table-spoonful of salt. Sift the rye and indian meal -into a large pan or wooden bowl; and mix them well together, adding a -little salt. Have ready half a pint of water, warm but not hot. Mix with -it the molasses, and then stir into it the yeast. Make a hole in the -middle of the pan of meal, pour in the liquid, and then with a spoon -work into it a portion of the flour that surrounds the hole, till the -liquid in the centre becomes a thick batter. Sprinkle the top with rye -meal, lay a thick cloth over the pan, and set it in a warm place to -rise. In three or four hours it should be light enough to appear cracked -all over the surface. Then pour into the middle (by degrees) about a -pint of warm water, (it must not be hot,) and as you pour mix it well -all through the dough, till the whole becomes a round mass. Sprinkle -some rye flour on the dough, and having floured your hands, knead it -long and hard, (at least half an hour, and after it ceases to stick to -your hands,) turning it over as you proceed. Then sprinkle the dough -again with flour, cover it, and again set it in a warm place to rise. -Have the oven ready, and of the proper heat, so that the bread may be -put in as soon as it has completely risen the second time. When -perfectly light, the dough will stand high, and the surface will be -cracked all over. This quantity will be sufficient for a common-sized -loaf. Set it directly into the oven, and bake it about two hours. When -bread has done rising, it will fall again if not put into the oven. As -soon as it is done, wrap it immediately in a clean coarse towel wet with -cold water, and stand it up on end till it is cool. - -This is a palatable, cheap, and wholesome bread. It may be baked in a -deep tin or iron pan. - -If the dough should have stood so long as to become sour, (which it -will, if mixed over night,) restore it by kneading in a small -tea-spoonful of pearlash or saleratus melted in a little warm water. - - -EGG PONE.--Three eggs, a quart of indian meal, a large table-spoonful of -fresh butter, a small tea-spoonful of salt, a half pint (or more) of -milk. Beat the eggs very light, and mix them with the milk. Then stir -in, gradually, the indian meal, adding the salt and butter. It must not -be a batter, but a soft dough, just thick enough to be stirred well with -a spoon. If too thin, add more indian meal; if too stiff, thin it with a -little more milk. Beat or stir it _long and hard_. Butter a tin or iron -pan. Put the mixture into it, and set the pan immediately into an oven, -which must be moderately hot at first, and the heat increased afterward. -A Dutch oven is best for this purpose. It should bake an hour and a half -or two hours, in proportion to its thickness. Send it to table hot, and -cut into slices. Eat it with butter, or molasses. - - -INDIAN MUSH.--Have ready on a clear fire a pot of boiling water. Stir -into it, by degrees, (a handful at a time,) sufficient indian meal to -make a very thick porridge, and then add a very small portion of salt, -allowing not more than a level tea-spoonful to a quart of meal. You must -keep the pot boiling all the time you are stirring in the meal; and -between every handful stir hard with the mush-stick, (a round stick -about half a yard long, flattened at the lower end,) as, if not well -stirred, the mush will be lumpy. After it is sufficiently thick and -smooth, keep it boiling an hour longer, stirring it occasionally. Then -cover the pot closely, and hang it higher up the chimney, or set it on -hot coals on the hearth, so as to simmer it slowly for another hour. The -goodness and wholesomeness of mush depends greatly on its being long and -thoroughly boiled. It should also be made very thick. If well made, and -well cooked, it is wholesome and nutritious; but the contrary, if thin, -and not sufficiently boiled. It is not too long to have it three or four -hours over the fire, first boiling, then simmering. On the contrary, it -will be better for it. The coarser the corn meal the less cooking it -requires. Send it to table hot, and in a deep dish. Eat it with sweet -milk, buttermilk, or cream, or with butter and sugar, or with butter and -molasses; making a hole in the middle of your plate of mush, putting -some butter into the hole, and then adding the sugar or molasses. - -Cold mush that has been left may be cut into slices, or mouthfuls, and -fried next day, in butter, or in nice dripping of veal, beef, or pork; -but not mutton or lamb. - - -INDIAN HASTY PUDDING.--Put two quarts of milk into a clean pot or -sauce-pan. Set it over the fire, adding a level tea-spoonful of salt, -and, when it comes to a boil, stir in a lump of fresh butter about the -size of a goose egg. Then add (a handful at a time) sufficient indian -meal to make it very thick, stirring it all the while with a mush stick. -Keep it boiling well, and continue to throw in indian meal till it is so -thick that the stick stands upright in it. Then send it to table hot, -and eat it with milk, cream, or molasses and butter. What is left may be -cut into slices, and fried next day, or boiled in a bag. - - -INDIAN MEAL GRUEL.--This is an excellent food for the sick. Having -sifted some indian meal, mix in a quart bowl three table-spoonfuls of -the meal with six of cold water. Stir it smooth, and press out the lumps -against the side of the bowl. Have ready a very clean sauce-pan, -entirely free from grease, with a pint of boiling water. Pour this, -scalding hot, on the mixture in the bowl, a little at a time, and stir -it well, adding a pinch of salt. Then put the whole back into the -sauce-pan. Set it on hot coals and stir it till it boils, making the -spoon go down to the bottom to prevent the gruel from burning. After it -has come to a boil, let it continue boiling half an hour, stirring it -frequently, and skimming it. Give it to the invalid warm, in a bowl or -tumbler, to be eaten with a tea-spoon. It may be sweetened with a little -sugar. When the physician permits, some grated nutmeg may be added; -also, a very little wine. - - -RYE MUSH.--To make smooth rye mush, sift a quart or more of rye meal -into a pan, and gradually pour in sufficient cold water to make a very -thick batter, stirring it hard with a spoon as you proceed, and -carefully pressing out all the lumps against the side of the pan. Add a -very little salt. The batter must be so thick at the last that you can -scarcely stir it. Then thin it with a little more water, and see that it -is quite smooth. Rye, and also wheat flour, have a disposition to be -more lumpy than corn meal, when made into mush. When thoroughly mixed -and stirred, put it into a pot, place it over the fire and boil it well, -stirring it with a mush-stick till it comes to a hard boil; then place -it in a diminished heat, and simmer it slowly till you want to dish it -up. Eat it warm, with butter and molasses, or with sweet milk, or fresh -buttermilk. Rye mush is considered very wholesome, particularly in cases -of dyspepsia. - - -COMMON HOE-CAKE.--Take an earthen or tin pan, and half fill it with -coarse indian meal, which had best be sifted in. Add a little salt. Have -ready a kettle of boiling water. Pour into the indian meal sufficient -hot water (a little at a time,) to make a stiff dough, stirring it with -a spoon as you proceed. It must be thoroughly mixed, and stirred hard. -If you want the cakes for breakfast, mix this dough over night; cover -the pan, and set it in a _cool_ place till morning. If kept warm, it -may turn sour. Early next morning, as soon as the fire is burning well, -set the griddle over it, and take out the dough, a handful at a time. -Flatten and shape it by patting it with your hands, till you form it -into cakes about the size of a common saucer, and half an inch thick. -When the griddle is quite hot, lay on it as many cakes as it will hold, -and bake them brown. When the upper side is done, slip a broad knife -beneath and turn them over. They must be baked brown on both sides. Eat -them warm, with buttermilk, sweet milk, butter, molasses, or whatever is -most convenient. If you intend these cakes for dinner or supper, mix -them as early in the day as you can, and (covering the pan) let them -stand in a cool place till wanted for baking. In cold weather you may -save trouble by mixing over night enough to last the next day for -breakfast, dinner, and supper; baking them as they are wanted for each -meal. Or they may be all baked in the morning, and eaten cold; but they -are then not so palatable as when warm. They will be less liable to -stick, if before each baking the griddle is dredged with wheat flour, or -greased with a bit of fat pork stuck on a fork. You may cover it all -over with one large cake, instead of several small ones. - -This cake is so called, because in some parts of America it was -customary to bake it on the iron of a hoe, stood up before the fire. It -is better known by that name than by any other. - - -COMMON GRIDDLE CAKE.--A quart of indian meal, sufficient warm water to -make a soft dough, a small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the indian meal -into a pan, and add the salt. Make a hole in the centre of the meal, and -pour in a little warm water. Then mix it with a large, strong spoon, -adding, by degrees, water enough to make a soft dough. Flour your hands, -and knead it into a large lump--divide it into two equal portions. Flour -your pasteboard, lay on it the first lump of dough, and roll it out -about an inch thick. Then, (having already heated your griddle,) lay the -cake upon it, spreading it evenly, and make it a good round shape. It -should cover the whole surface of the griddle, which must first be -greased, either with butter or lard tied in a rag, or with a bit of fat -fresh pork. Bake it well; and when one side is well browned, turn it on -the other, taking care not to break it. Send it to table hot, cut into -three-cornered pieces--split and butter them. As soon as the first cake -is sent in, put on the other to bake. - -This is one of the plainest and simplest preparations of indian cake; -and is very good when warm. - - -PLAIN JOHNNY CAKE.--A quart of indian meal, a pint of warm water, a -level tea-spoonful of salt. Sift a quart of indian meal into a pan. Make -a hole in the middle, and pour in a pint of warm water, adding the salt. -With a spoon mix the meal and water gradually into a soft dough. Stir -it very hard for a quarter of an hour or more, till it becomes light and -spongy. Then spread the dough, smooth and evenly, on a stout, flat -board. A piece of the head of a flour barrel will serve for this -purpose. Place the board nearly (but not quite) upright, and set a -smoothing-iron or a stone against the back to support it. Bake it well. -When done, cut it into squares, and send it hot to table, split and -buttered. You may eat molasses with it. - - -VERY PLAIN INDIAN DUMPLINGS.--Sift some indian meal into a pan; add -about a salt-spoon of salt to each quart of meal, and scald it with -sufficient boiling water to make a stiff dough. Pour in the water -gradually, stirring as you pour. When the dough becomes a stiff lump -divide it into equal portions; flour your hands, and make it into thick -flat dumplings, about as large round as the top of a glass tumbler, or a -breakfast cup. Dredge the dumplings on all sides with flour, put them -into a pot of boiling water, (if made sufficiently stiff they need not -be tied in cloths,) and keep them boiling hard till thoroughly done. Try -them with a fork, which must come out quite clean, and with no -clamminess sticking to it. They are an excellent appendage to salt pork -or bacon, serving them up with the meat; or they may be eaten afterwards -with butter and molasses, or with milk sweetened well with brown sugar, -and flavored with a little ground cinnamon. On no account boil them with -meat. - - -INDIAN MUFFINS.--A pint and a half of yellow indian meal, sifted; a -handful of wheat flour; a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; a quart of -milk; four eggs; a very small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the milk into a -sauce-pan. Cut the butter into it. Set it over the fire and warm it till -the butter is very soft, but not till it melts. Then take it off, stir -it well till all mixed, and set it away to cool. Beat four eggs very -light, and when the milk is cold, stir them into it alternately with the -meal, a little at a time, of each. Add the salt. Beat the whole very -hard after it is all mixed. Then butter some muffin-rings on the inside. -Set them in a hot oven, or on a heated griddle; pour some of the batter -into each, and bake the muffins well. Send them hot to table, continuing -to bake while a fresh supply is wanted. Pull them open with your -fingers, and eat them with butter, to which you may add molasses or -honey. These muffins will be found excellent, and can be prepared in a -very short time; for instance, in three quarters or half an hour before -breakfast or tea. - -This mixture may be baked in waffle-irons, as waffles. Butter them, and -have on the table a glass bowl with powdered sugar and powdered -cinnamon, to eat with these waffles. - - -CORN MEAL BREAKFAST CAKES.--A quart of indian meal; a handful or more of -wheat flour; a large salt-spoon of salt; a quart of warm water; an -additional pint of lukewarm water; a bit of pearlash the size of a -hazle-nut, or the same quantity of soda or saleratus. Mix over night, in -a large pan, the indian meal, the wheat flour and salt. Pour on -gradually a quart of warm water, (warm but not hot,) and stir it in with -a large wooden or iron spoon, so as to form a very soft dough. Cover the -pan, and set it on the dresser till morning. In the morning thin the -dough with another pint of warm water, so as to make it into a batter, -having first dissolved in the water a salt-spoonful of powdered pearlash -or saleratus, or a bit the size of a hazle-nut. Beat the mixture hard. -Then cover it, and let it stand near the fire for a quarter of an hour -before you begin to bake it. Bake it in thin cakes on a griddle. Send -them to table hot, and eat them with butter and molasses, or honey. - - -INDIAN RICE CAKES.--Take equal quantities of yellow indian meal and well -boiled rice. Mix them together in a pan, the meal and rice alternately, -a little at a time of each. The boiled rice may be either hot or cold; -but it will be rather best to mix it hot. Having first mixed it with a -spoon, knead it well with your hands; moistening it with a little milk -or water, if you find it too stiff. Have ready, over the fire, a heated -griddle. Grease it with fresh butter tied in a clean rag; and having -made the mixture into flat round cakes, bake them well on both sides. -Eat them with butter and sugar, or butter and molasses, or with butter -alone. - - -PUMPKIN INDIAN CAKES.--Take equal portions of indian meal, and stewed -pumpkin that has been well mashed and _drained very dry_ in a sieve or -cullender. Put the stewed pumpkin in a pan, and stir the meal gradually -into it, a spoonful at a time, adding a little butter as you proceed. -Mix the whole thoroughly, stirring it very hard. If not thick enough to -form a stiff dough, add a little more indian meal. Make it into round, -flat cakes, about the size of a muffin, and bake them over the fire on a -hot griddle greased with butter. Or lay them in a square iron pan, and -bake them in an oven. - -Send them to table hot, and eat them with butter. - - -EXCELLENT BUCKWHEAT CAKES.--A quart of buckwheat meal, sifted; a level -tea-spoonful of salt; a small half pint or a large handful of indian -meal; two large table-spoonfuls of strong fresh brewer's yeast or four -table-spoonfuls of home-made yeast; sufficient lukewarm water to make a -moderate batter. Mix together the buckwheat and indian meal, and add the -salt. Make a hole in the centre of the meal, and pour in the yeast. Then -stir in gradually, from a kettle, sufficient tepid or lukewarm water to -make a moderately thick batter when united with the yeast. Cover the -pan, set it in a warm place, and leave it to rise. It should be light in -about three hours. When it has risen high, and is covered with bubbles, -it is fit to bake. Have ready a clean griddle well heated over the fire. -Grease it well with a bit of fresh butter tied in a clean white rag, and -kept on a saucer near you. Then dip out a large ladleful of the batter, -and bake it on the griddle; turning it when brown, with the cake-turner, -and baking it brown on the other side. Grease the griddle slightly -between baking each cake, or scrape it smooth with a broad knife. As -fast as you bake the cakes, lay them, several in a pile, on a hot plate. -Butter them, and if of large size cut them across into four pieces. Or -send them to table to be buttered there. Trim off the edges before they -go in. - -If your batter has been mixed over night, and is found sour in the -morning, dissolve a salt-spoon of pearlash or saleratus in a little -lukewarm water, stir it into the batter, let it stand a quarter of an -hour, and then bake it. The alkali will remove the acidity, and increase -the lightness of the batter. If you use soda for this purpose it will -require a tea-spoonful. - -If the batter is kept at night in so cold a place as to freeze, it will -be unfit for use. Do not grease the griddle with meat-fat of any sort. - - -NICE RYE BATTER CAKES.--A quart of lukewarm milk, two eggs, a large -table-spoonful of fresh, brewer's yeast or two of home-made yeast; -sufficient sifted rye meal to make a moderate batter; a salt-spoon of -salt; having warmed the milk, beat the eggs very light, and stir them -gradually into it, alternately with the rye meal, adding the salt. Put -in the meal, a handful at a time, till you have the batter about as -thick as for buckwheat cakes. Then stir in the yeast, and give the -batter a hard beating, seeing that it is smooth and free from lumps. -Cover the pan, and set it in a warm place to rise. When risen high, and -covered with bubbles, the batter is fit to bake. Have ready over the -fire a hot griddle, and bake the cakes in the manner of buckwheat. Send -them to table hot, and eat them with butter, molasses, or honey. - -Yeast powders, used according to the directions that accompany them, and -put in at the last, just before baking, are an improvement to the -lightness of all batter cakes, provided that real yeast or eggs are also -in the mixture. But it is not well to depend on the powders exclusively; -particularly when real yeast is to be had. The lightness produced by -yeast powders alone, is not the right sort; and though the cakes are -eatable, they are too tough and leathery to be wholesome. As -_auxiliaries_ to genuine yeast, and to beaten eggs, yeast powders are -excellent. But not as the sole dependence. - -Indian batter cakes may be made as above; or rye and indian meal be -mixed in equal proportions. - - -INDIAN CUP CAKES.--A pint and a half of yellow Indian meal; half a pint -of wheat flour; a pint and a half of _sour_ milk; (buttermilk is best;) -a small tea-spoonful of saleratus or soda dissolved in warm water; two -eggs; a level tea-spoonful of salt. Sift the indian and wheat meal into -a pan and mix them well, adding the salt. If you have no buttermilk or -other sour milk at hand, turn some sweet milk sour by setting a pan of -it in the sun, or stirring in a spoonful of vinegar. Take out a small -tea-cupful of the sour milk, and reserve it to be put in at the last. -Beat the eggs very light, and then stir them, gradually, into the milk, -alternately with the meal, a little at a time of each. Lastly, dissolve -the soda or saleratus, and stir it into the cup of sour milk that has -been reserved for the purpose. It will effervesce; stir it while foaming -into the mixture, which should be a thick batter. Have ready some -tea-cups, or little deep tins. Butter them well; nearly fill them with -the batter, and set them immediately into a rather brisk oven. The cakes -must be thoroughly baked all through. When done, turn them out on large -plates, and send them hot to the breakfast or tea-table. Split them into -three pieces, and eat them with butter. - -The soda will entirely remove the acidity of the milk, which will -effervesce the better for being sour at first, adding therefore to the -lightness of the cake. Taste the milk, and if you find that the -slightest sourness remains, add a little more dissolved soda. - -All the alkalies, pearlash, saleratus, soda, and sal-volatile, will -remove acidity, and increase lightness; but if too much is used, they -will impart a disagreeable taste. It is useless to put lemon or orange -juice into any mixture that is afterwards to have one of these alkalies, -as they will entirely destroy the flavor of the fruit. - - -CAROLINA RICE CAKES.--Having picked and washed half a pint of rice, boil -it by itself till the grains lose all form, and are dissolved into a -thick mass or jelly. While warm, mix into it a large lump of the best -fresh butter, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Pour into a bowl a moderate -sized tea-cupful of ground rice flour, and add to it as much milk as -will make a tolerably stiff batter. Stir it till it is quite smooth, and -free from lumps. Then mix it thoroughly with the boiled rice. Beat six -eggs as light as possible, and stir them, gradually, into the mixture. -Bake it on a griddle, in cakes about as large round as a saucer. Eat -them warm with butter; and have on the table, in a small bowl, some -powdered white sugar and nutmeg, for those who like it. - - -AUNT LYDIA'S CORN CAKE.--Sift into a large pan a quart of yellow corn -meal, and add a level tea-spoonful of salt, (not more.) Have ready a -pint of boiling milk, sufficient to make a soft dough. Mix the milk hot -into the corn meal, and add about a quarter of a pound, or half a pint -of nice fresh butter. Having beaten five eggs till very light and thick, -stir them gradually into the mixture, and set it to cool. All -preparations of corn meal require much beating and stirring. Have ready -some small tin pans, about four or five inches square, and two or three -inches deep. They are especially good for baking such cakes, (far better -than patty-pans,) and are made by any tinsmith. Grease the pans with the -same butter you have used in mixing the cakes. _Fill the pans to the -top_ with the above mixture, that the heat may immediately catch the -surface, and cause it to puff up high above the edges of the pan. If -properly mixed, and well beaten, there is no danger of it running over. -If only half filled, and not very light, the mixture when baking will -sink down, and become heavy and tough. Set these cakes immediately into -a moderate oven. Bake them brown, and send them to the breakfast table -hot. Split and butter them. - -They may be baked in muffin rings, but the small square pans are best. - -This is the very best preparation of Indian cakes. If _exactly -followed_, we believe there is none superior; as is the opinion of all -persons who have eaten them. The cook from whom this receipt was -obtained, is a Southern colored woman, called Aunt Lydia. - -The above quantities will furnish cakes only for a small family. If the -family is of tolerable size, double the proportions of each article--as -for instance, two quarts of Indian meal, one quart of milk, half a pound -of butter, and ten eggs, with a level table-spoonful of salt. Let them -be well baked; not scorched on the top, and raw at the bottom. - -We recommend them highly as the perfection of corn cakes, if well made, -well baked, and with all the ingredients of the best quality. - -Use yellow indian meal in preference to white. The yellow is sweeter, -has more of the true corn taste, and its color shows at once what it is. -The white has less flavor, and may be mistaken for very coarse wheat. It -is difficult to keep corn meal good for the whole year. Before the new -corn meal is in market, the old is apt to become musty. If you live in a -city it is best to buy it as you want it; a few pecks at a time. If in -the country, sift your barrel of corn meal soon after it is brought; -divide it, and keep it in several different vessels, always well -covered. - - -SHORT CAKE.--As this requires no rising, it may be mixed and prepared at -half an hour's notice. Take a quart and a pint of wheat flour, sift it -into a pan, and divide into three parts three quarters of a pound of -nice fresh butter. Cut up one piece into the pan of flour, and mix it -into a dough with a broad knife, adding, as you proceed, as little water -as will be barely sufficient. The water must be very cold. Roll out this -lump of paste, dredge it slightly with flour, fold it up, and roll it -out again. Then cover it with a second division of the butter, put on -the sheet of paste with the knife, and dispersed at equal distances. -Sprinkle it with flour, fold it, and roll out the sheet again. Put on -the remainder of the butter as before, in bits equally dispersed. Fold, -dredge, and roll out the dough into a rather thin sheet. Cut it into -small round cakes with the edge of a tumbler, or something like it, -using up the clippings of paste left at the last to make one more cake. -Have ready a hot griddle or oven. Put on the cakes so as not to touch -each other, and bake them light brown on both sides. Send them to table -hot, to be split and buttered. Mix and roll out these cakes as fast as -possible, and avoid handling them more than you need. Paste made -_slowly_ is never light or flakey. Mix quick and roll quick. This is a -good plain paste for fruit pot-pies or dumplings. - -You may make common short cake for very healthy people, with two quarts -of flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound -of lard, mixed into the pan of meal with a very little cold water, and a -second quarter of lard spread all over the sheet of paste, after rolling -it out. Fold, sprinkle, and roll it out again into one round griddle -cake, or two if you have enough of dough. Take care, in baking, not to -have it smoked or blackened at the edge. When done, cut it into "pie -pieces," and send it to table to be split and buttered. - - -HALF MOONS.--Of this paste you may make half-moon pies. Cut the paste -into round cakes. On half the circle, lay plenty of stewed fruit well -sweetened, (for instance, stewed dried peach,) fold over it the other -half, pinch the two edges together, and crimp them. Bake them in an -oven, and eat them fresh. If you have fruit in the house ready stewed, -half-moon pies can be got up for a plain dessert on an emergency. Either -mince meat, or sausage meat, may be baked in half-moons. They will bake -very nicely, laid side by side, in large square tin pans, first dredged -slightly with flour. - - -SOFT MUFFINS.--Warm a quart of milk, and melt in it a quarter of a pound -of the best fresh butter, cut into bits. When melted, stir it about, and -set it away to cool. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and stir -them gradually into a pan of milk, and butter when it is quite cold. -Then, by degrees, stir in enough of sifted flour to make a batter as -thick as you can well beat it. Then, at the last, stir in three -table-spoonfuls of baker's or brewer's yeast. Cover the pan of batter -with a double cloth, and set it on the hearth (or some other warm place) -to rise, but it must not be allowed to get hot. It should have risen -nearly to the top of the pan, and be covered with bubbles in about three -hours. The griddle being heated, grease it with nice butter tied in a -rag; take a ladleful of batter out of the pan, pour it into the ring, -and bake the muffins. Send them hot to table, and split and butter them. -These are superior to all muffins. Those who have eaten them will never -desire any others, if this receipt has been faithfully followed. Try it. - - -SALLY LUNN CAKE.--This is a favorite tea cake, and so universally liked -that it is well to make a liberal quantity of the mixture, and bake it -in two loaves. Sift into a large pan three pounds of fine flour. Warm in -a quart of milk half a pound of fresh butter, and add a small -tea-spoonful of salt, six eggs well beaten, and add, gradually, two wine -glasses of excellent fresh yeast. Mix the flour well into the pan, (a -little at a time) and beat the whole very hard. Divide this quantity -into two equal portions, and set it to rise in two pans. Cover it with -thick cloths, and set it on the hearth to rise. When quite light, grease -two loaf-pans with the same butter used for the cakes, and bake it in a -moderate oven, keeping up the heat steadily to the last. It should be -thoroughly done all through. Send it to table hot, cut in slices, but -the slices left standing as in a pound cake at a party. - -The Sally Lunn mixture may be baked on a griddle, as muffins in muffin -rings, and split and buttered at table. - -In mixing this cake, add neither sugar nor spice. They do not improve, -but spoil it, as would be found on trial. It is the best of plain tea -cakes, if properly made and baked. - - -DELAWARE CAKES.--This is a plain tea cake. Sift into a pan two quarts of -flour. Cut up half a pound of fresh butter, and rub it into the flour -with your hands. Beat five eggs very light and thick; make a hole in the -centre of the flour, and gradually stir the beaten eggs, in turn with a -pint of milk. Then add a jill of fine fresh yeast. Mix the whole -thoroughly with a broad knife. Transfer it to large square tin pans. -Cover it with a clean flannel, and set it on the hearth to rise. When it -is quite light, and cracked all over the surface, divide the dough into -cakes and bake them in muffin rings, on a griddle or in a stove. If -baked in one large cake, there is a risk of their being made heavy, by -cutting them when hot. - -To make sweet cakes with the above mixture, add gradually to the flour -in the pan, half a pound of powdered sugar before you rub in the butter, -and after the eggs and milk. Stir in a wineglass of rosewater, or less, -if it is very strong, (which rosewater seldom is) and also it loses much -of its strength in cooking. Or, substitute the yellow rind and juice of -a lemon, and some powdered nutmeg. They will then be a cake for company; -otherwise, they will be for family teas. - -Either plain or sweet they are very good. We rather prefer them plain. -If plain, omit even sugar. Sugar, without other flavoring, gives plain -tea cakes a faint sickly taste, and is better left out entirely, except -for children--and they like any kind of sweetness, however little. - - -MARYLAND BISCUIT.--Take two quarts of sifted wheat flour, and add a -small tea-spoonful of salt. Rub into the pan of flour a large quarter of -a pound of lard, and add, gradually, warm milk enough to make a very -stiff dough. Knead the lump of dough long and hard, and pound it on all -sides with a rolling-pin. Divide the dough into several pieces, and -knead and pound each piece separately. This must go on for two or three -hours, continually kneading and pounding, otherwise it will be hard, -tough, and indigestible. Then make it into small round thick biscuits, -prick them with a fork, and bake them a pale brown. - -This is the most laborious of cakes, and also the most unwholesome, even -when made in the best manner. We do not recommend it; but there is no -accounting for tastes. Children should not eat these biscuits--nor grown -persons either, if they can get any other sort of bread. - -When living in a town where there are bakers, there is no excuse for -making Maryland biscuit. Believe nobody that says they are not -unwholesome. Yet we have heard of families, in country places, where -neither the mistress nor the cook knew any other preparation of wheat -bread. Better to live on indian cakes. - - -HOME-MADE BREAD.--You cannot have good bread without good flour, good -yeast, good kneading, and good baking, all united. Like many other -things, the best flour is always the cheapest in the end. There is none -better than that which comes from the mills of Hiram Smith, Rochester, -New York. All flour should be kept in a dry place, damp being always -injurious to it. Good flour goes farther than that of inferior quality, -and is both whiter and lighter. No skill will avail either in making or -baking bread, if the flour is of bad quality. Flour will keep much -better if, as soon as a new barrel is brought in, the whole of it is -sifted, and divided in several buckets. Flour buckets, made for the -purpose, are short and wide, are broader at the bottom than the top, and -have handles and lids. They are to be had of all coopers. Yeast must -always be of the best quality, strong and fresh. With too much yeast the -bread will be bitter; with too little it will be heavy; with stale yeast -it will be heavy, sour, and dark-colored. If baked too little, it -becomes tough and clammy. We deprecate the practice of putting hartshorn -in bread. It gives it a bad taste; and even if it produces a sort of -factitious lightness, it also renders it tough and difficult to -masticate, however nice it may look. Also, it is very unwholesome. - -The oven should be heated in time, to set in the bread as soon as ready. -When once it has risen to its utmost lightness, it will fall and turn -sour if permitted to stand. The only remedy for sour bread is, to melt -a table-spoonful of soda or pearlash in tepid water, and sprinkle it -over the dough, which must then be kneaded again, after it has rested -half an hour. In summer, do not begin your bread over night; it will -certainly be sour before morning. In winter you may do so, but keep it -all night in a warm (though not a hot) place. If the dough freezes, you -may throw it away at once. - -To knead, double up your hands, put them deep into the dough, and work -it with your knuckles, exerting all your strength. When the dough sticks -to them no longer, but leaves your bent fingers clean and clear, it is -time to cease kneading, for you have done enough for that time. - -Sift into a deep pan, or large wooden bowl, a peck of fine wheat flour, -(adding a large table-spoonful of salt,) and mix the water with half a -pint of strong fresh brewer's yeast, or near a whole pint if the yeast -is home-made. Pour this into the hole, in the middle of the heap of -flour. Mix in with a wooden spoon, a portion of the flour from the -surrounding edges of the hole so as to make a thick batter, and having -sprinkled dry flour over the top, let it rest for near an hour. This is -called "_setting the sponge_," or "_making the leaven_." When it has -swelled up to the surface, and burst through the coating of flour that -covered the hole, pour in as much more lukewarm water as will suffice to -mix the whole gradually into a dough. Knead it hard and thoroughly, -leaving no lumps in it, and continue to knead till the dough leaves -your hands. Throw over it a clean thick cloth, and set it in a warm -place to rise again. When it is quite light and cracked all over the -surface, divide it into loaves, and give each loaf a little more -kneading, and let it rest till it has risen as high as it will. Have -your oven quite ready, and (having transferred the loaves to pans, -sprinkled with flour,) bake them well. Try the heat of the oven by -previously throwing in a little flour. If it browns well, and you can -hold your hand in the heat while you count twenty, it is a good -temperature for bread. If the flour scorches black the oven is too hot, -so leave the oven open a little while till it becomes cooler. As soon as -the bread is quite done, take out the loaves, wrap each tightly in a -clean coarse cloth, damped by sprinkling it with water, and stand them -up on their edges. This will prevent the crust from becoming too hard. -Keep the loaves wrapped up after they are deposited in the bread box. - - -ROLLS--Are made as above, except that they are mixed with warm milk -instead of water, and a little fresh butter rubbed into the dough. - - -TWIST BREAD.--Before you put the dough into the baking pans, divide it -equally into long thick rolls, (smaller at the ends) and plait or twist -three together. - - -BRAN BREAD--Is made like any other, only of bran meal; and in setting -the sponge, put _wheat_ flour into the hole, and add to the liquid half -a tea-cupful of nice brown sugar. Bran bread should look very brown. It -should be eaten fresh. When stale, it is too dry and hard. Bran batter -cakes are made and baked like buckwheat. - - -RYE BREAD.--Is made like wheat bread, but that it requires more kneading -and baking. Rye batter cakes, made like buckwheat, should have one half -corn meal. - - -BREAD BISCUITS.--When making bread after the dough has risen very light, -take from it a quart or more; knead into it a quarter of a pound of -fresh butter, and form it into tall rolls. Bake them in an oven, and -when done break them apart, but do not cut them with a knife--or, bake -them in flat biscuits, to be split and buttered. Bread dough, with some -butter added to the mixture, will make plain cakes for children, with -the addition of white sugar, powdered cinnamon, some good raisins, -(stoned,) cut in half, and dredged well with flour, to prevent their -clodding or sinking. A beaten egg mixed into the dough is an -improvement. Children, (accustomed only to plain living,) like these -cakes very well, but they must be light and well baked. - - -BREAD CAKES.--Take slices of stale wheat bread, that has been well made -and light. There should be enough to fill a pint bowl, closely packed. -Put the bread into a deep dish, and pour boiling water upon it. While -the bread is soaking, mix in a crock or jar a pint of milk, and a pint -of wheat flour. Put the soaked bread into a cullender, and let the water -drain off. When the water is drained away, beat the bread _lightly_ with -a fork, but do not press or mash it. Beat two eggs very light and thick, -and gradually stir them into the flour and milk. Then stir in the bread. -Bake the mixture on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes, and eat -them hot with butter. This quantity is for a small family of four -persons. - -For a family of moderate size, take a quart of stale bread, a quart of -milk, a quart of flour, and four eggs. - -For a large family, two quarts of bread, two quarts of milk, two quarts -of flour, and eight eggs. This quantity will not be more than sufficient -for a large family, as they will all like these cakes. - -If you have not enough of stale bread in the house, send for a stale -loaf, rather than not have the proper proportion for the cakes. - - -MILK BISCUIT.--Warm a pint of milk on the top of the stove, and cut up -in it half a pound of fresh butter, to soften, but not to melt. Sift -into a pan two quarts of flour; make a hole in the middle of the flour, -and pour into it the milk and butter. Beat two eggs till very thick and -smooth, and pour them in also. Lastly, pour into the hole two -wine-glasses of strong fresh brewer's or baker's yeast; or, three of -good home-made yeast. Mix altogether with a broad knife, till it becomes -a lump of soft dough. Then knead it well on your pasteboard, and make it -into round rolls or balls. Knead every ball separately. Flatten them -with your hand into thick biscuits, and prick every one with a fork. Lay -them separately in buttered square pans, and set them to rise. If all is -right, they will be light in little more than an hour. When quite light, -(risen high and cracked all over) set them in a moderate oven, and bake -them a light brown. They should be eaten quite fresh. - - -RUSK.--Sift a quart of flour into a pan. Make a hole in the centre, and -pour in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut up and softened in -half a pint of milk warmed on the stove. Beat two eggs very light, and -mix them gradually into the hole in the pan of flour, in turn with a -small wine-glass of rose water; or a table-spoonful of the rose water if -as strong as it should be, adding a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace, -nutmeg, and cinnamon. Lastly, a wine-glass and a half of fresh brewer's -yeast. Mix those articles well into the flour, till it becomes a lump of -soft dough. Knead it well on your pasteboard, and divide it into pieces -of equal size. Knead each piece separately. Form them so as to be tall -and high, when finished. Butter an iron pan, lay the rusks in it side by -side, and set them in a warm place to rise again. When quite light, bake -them in a moderate oven, and sift sugar over them when cool. - - -DRY RUSKS.--Dry rusks are used for infant's food, and for invalids. They -are made plain, without any butter, spice, or rose water, and after -being once baked are split, and baked over till they are all crisp and -browned on the inside. Use them dissolved, by pouring on a little warm -water or milk, and beat them with a spoon to a thick pap. - - -CROSS BUNS.--Pick clean a pound and a half of dried or Zante currants; -wash, drain, and dry them on a large flat dish placed in a slanting -position near the fire, or in the sun. It will be still better to -substitute for the currants a pound of Sultana (or seedless) raisins, -each raisin cut in half. When quite dry, dredge the fruit _thickly_ with -flour to prevent their sinking or clodding in the cake. Sift into a deep -pan two quarts of flour, and mix thoroughly with it a table-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon, and three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar. Cut -up three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter, into a large half pint of -rich milk. Warm it till the butter is quite soft, but not till it melts. -Make a hole in the centre of the pan of flour, and pour in the mixed -liquid, adding a jill (or two wine-glasses) of strong fresh yeast. Mix -in the flour by degrees, beginning round the edge of the hole, and -proceed gradually till you have the whole mass of ingredients well -incorporated. Cover the pan with a clean thick towel, and set it in a -warm place to rise. When it has risen high, and is cracked all over, mix -in a small tea-spoonful of dissolved soda. Flour your pasteboard, divide -the dough into equal portions, mix in the plums, and _slightly_ knead it -into round cakes the size of a small saucer. Place them on a large dish, -cover them, and set them again to rise in a warm place for half an hour. -Mark every one deeply with a cross, bake them brown, and when done brush -each bun lightly over with a glazing of white of egg, sweetened with -sugar. - - -CINNAMON BREAD.--On a bread-baking day, (having made more than your -usual quantity of wheat bread,) when the dough has risen quite light, -and is cracked all over the surface, take out as much as will weigh two -pounds. Mix into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, that has been -cut up and melted in a half pint of milk; and also, three beaten eggs. -Incorporate the butter, milk, and egg, thoroughly with the dough, and -then add (dissolved in a little tepid water,) a salt-spoonful (_not -more_) of soda. Have ready mixed in a bowl a pint of _brown_ sugar, -moistened with fresh butter, so as to make a stiff paste, and flavor it -with two heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon. Form the cake into -the shape of a round loaf, and make deep incisions or cuts all over its -surface; filling them up with the cinnamon mixture pressed hard into the -cuts, pinching and closing the dough over them with your thumb and -finger to prevent the seasoning running out. Put the loaf into a round -pan, and set it into the oven to bake with the other bread. When cool, -glaze it over with white of egg, in which some powdered sugar has been -dissolved. Send it to table whole in form, but cut into loose slices. -Eat it fresh. All yeast cakes become dry and hard the next day. - -This mixture may be baked in a square iron pan, and cut into square -cakes when cool. - - -WAFFLES.--We are indebted to the Germans for this cake, which, if this -receipt is exactly followed, will be found excellent. Warm a quart of -milk, and cut up in it a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, -and stir it about to soften in the warm milk. Beat eight eggs till very -thick and smooth, and stir them gradually into the milk and butter, in -turn with half a pound of sifted flour. Then add two table-spoonfuls of -strong fresh brewer's or baker's yeast. Cover the pan with a clean thick -cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When the batter has risen -nearly to the top, and is covered with bubbles, it is time to bake; -first stirring in a wine-glass of rose-water. Having heated your -waffle-iron in a good fire, grease it inside with the fresh butter used -for the waffle mixture, or with fresh lard; fill it, and shut the iron -closely. Turn it on the fire, that both sides of the cake may be equally -well done. Each side will require about three minutes baking. Take them -out of the iron by slipping a knife underneath. Then grease and prepare -the iron for another waffle. Butter them, and send them to the tea-table -"hot and hot;" and, to eat with this, a bowl or glass dish of sugar -flavored with powdered cinnamon. - -In buying waffle irons choose them _very deep_, so as to make a good -impression when baked--if shallow, the waffle will look thin and poor. -Those that bake one waffle at a time are the handsomest and most -manageable. - - -SOFT CRULLERS.--Sift a pound and a half of flour, and have ready a pound -of powdered sugar. Heat in a round-bottomed sauce-pan a quart of water; -and when quite warm, stir the flour gradually into the water. In another -vessel set a pound of nice fresh butter over the fire, and when it -begins to melt, stir it, by degrees, into the flour and water. Then add, -gradually, the powdered sugar, and a grated nutmeg. Take the sauce-pan -off the fire, and beat the contents with a wooden spaddle, (which is far -better than a spoon) till they are thoroughly mixed. Next, having -beaten six eggs till very thick and light, stir them, gradually, into -the mixture, and then beat the whole very hard till it becomes a thick -batter. Add rose-water or lemon juice. Flour a pasteboard, and lay out -the batter upon it in the form of rings. The best and easiest way is to -pass it through a screw funnel. - -Have ready on the fire a pot of boiling lard. Put in the crullers, -taking them off the board one at a time, on a broad-bladed knife. Boil -but a few at a time. They must be of a fine brown. Lift them out with a -perforated skimmer, draining back the lard into the pot. Lay them on a -large dish, and dredge them with sugar. - -These, if properly managed, are far superior to all other crullers, but -they cannot be made in warm weather. - - -DOUGH-NUTS.--On baking day, take two pounds of very light bread dough -that has been made in the usual manner. Put it into a broad pan. Rub -into it half a pound of fresh butter, and half a pound of powdered -sugar, and a table-spoonful of mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. Wet it with -half a pint of milk, and mix in three well beaten eggs. Cover it, and -set by the fire to rise again. When quite light, flour your pasteboard, -and make the dough into oval balls; or, you may cut it into diamond -shapes, (handling it as little as possible.) Have ready, over the fire, -a pot of boiling lard. Drop the dough-nuts into it, and boil them; or -fry them brown in a frying-pan. Take them out one by one in a -perforated skimmer, draining back the lard into the pan. Spread them on -a large dish, and sift sugar over them. Eat them fresh; when heavy and -stale they are not fit. This is a German cake. - - -COMMON CRULLERS.--The above mixture for dough-nuts will make good -crullers. Flour your pasteboard, lay the dough upon it, roll it very -thick, and cut it into strips with a jagging iron. Take off short -pieces, and twist them into various forms. Throw them into a pot of -boiling lard. When done, drain the lard from them, spread them on a -large dish, and dredge them with powdered white sugar. - -The Alpistera is a Spanish cruller, shaped like the five fingers united -at the wrist. - - - - -PLAIN DESSERTS. - - -MOLASSES PUDDING.--Sift into a pan a large quart of yellow indian meal. -Simmer over the fire a quart of milk, a pint of _West India molasses_, -stirred in while the milk is hot. Put the milk and molasses into a large -pan, and mix gradually into them the corn meal while they are quite -warm. Add a large table-spoonful of ground ginger, and a heaped -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Beat the whole mixture long and -hard, for on that will chiefly depend the lightness of the pudding, as -it has neither eggs, butter, nor yeast. If your batter seems too thin, -add, gradually, a little more corn meal; if too thick, a little more -milk and molasses. - -Dip in hot water a large square pudding cloth. Spread it out in a pan, -dredge it well with flour, and then pour the pudding-mixture into it. -Tie it up, making the string very secure, but leave plenty of room -between the batter and the tying place, for the pudding to swell in -boiling, at least one-third. Put the pudding, directly, into a large -pot, and keep it steadily boiling for about three hours. Corn meal -requires long cooking. Turn the pudding twice with a fork. If the water -boils away too much, replenish it from a tea-kettle of hot water, kept -boiling for the purpose. If you pour in _cold_ water the pudding will -become hard and heavy, and be totally spoiled. Do not turn it out and -send it to table till wanted at dinner. Then dip it for a moment in cold -water, untie the string, and transfer it to a dish with a cover. Eat it -with molasses and butter; or make a sauce of drawn butter, flavored with -wine and nutmeg. - -This pudding, if properly mixed, well beaten, and well boiled, will be -as light as if made with eggs, (the _West India_ molasses having that -property) and it will cut down rough or open grained, like a very light -sponge cake, unless the batter has been made too thick and stiff, and -not sufficiently beaten, and not allowed space enough to swell in -boiling. If made _too thin_, or not boiled well, the pudding will come -out a soft, shapeless mass. But if all is carefully managed, this (the -least costly of American puddings) will be found excellent for a plain -table, and perfectly wholesome. The flavor will be much improved by -adding to the cinnamon and ginger the grated yellow rind and juice of an -orange or lemon. If your first attempt at this pudding is a failure, try -it again--practice makes perfect. - -For a large family, have two quarts of corn meal, two quarts of milk, -and one quart of _West India_ molasses; two table-spoonfuls of ginger, -and one of cinnamon. - -What is left may be tied in a cloth, and boiled over again next day, for -half an hour or longer. - - -MOLASSES PIE.--Make a plain paste, allowing a quart of flour to a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound of lard. -Cut up the butter into the pan of flour, and rub it into a dough, with a -half tumbler of cold water. Too much water is injurious to any paste, -rendering it tough and hard. Roll out the paste into a sheet, and with a -broad knife spread all over it one-half of the lard. Sprinkle it with -flour, fold it, and roll it out again. Spread on the remainder of the -lard, dredge it slightly, fold it again, and then divide it into two -sheets. Line with one sheet the inside of a pie-dish, and fill it with -molasses, mixed with butter, and flavored with ginger and cinnamon, or -lemon or orange. Put on the other sheet of paste as a lid to the pie. -Crimp or notch the edges. Bake it of a pale brown, and send it to table -fresh, but not hot. - - -MOLASSES POT-PIE.--Make plenty of paste, allowing to _each quart_ of -flour a small half pound of finely minced suet. Line the pot -three-quarters up the sides with paste, and put in a quart of West India -molasses, flavored with ginger and cinnamon, lemon or orange grating, -and juice. Cover it with a lid of paste, _not fitting closely_ round its -edges, and cut a cross slit in the top. Have ready six or eight extra -pieces of suet paste, cut into squares, and boiled by themselves. When -the pie is done, put these little cakes (ready boiled) into the -molasses, having removed the lid or cover of the pie, and cut it up. -Take out the inside paste, and cut it in pieces also. Serve up the whole -in one large dish. - - -BATTER PUDDING.--Having beaten eight eggs till very thick and smooth, -stir them gradually into a pan of milk, in turn with eight -table-spoonfuls of flour, added by degrees. Give the whole a hard -stirring at last. Dip a square pudding cloth into hot water, shake it -out, dredge it with flour, and spread it over the inside of an empty -pan. Pour the pudding mixture into it. Gather up the cloth, leaving -ample space for the pudding to swell in boiling, and securing the -string tightly. Put the pudding into a large pot of boiling water, and -boil it fast and steadily for two hours. Turn it with a large fork once -or twice while boiling. When done, dip it for a moment in cold water, -that you may turn it out easily. Send it to table hot, and eat it with -any sauce you like, from molasses, or butter and sugar, to wine sauce. -This, if exactly followed, is the very best receipt for a plain batter -pudding. It may be made of corn meal, or wheat bread-crumbs, (eight -table-spoonfuls to eight eggs, and one quart of milk.) Corn meal -requires with it one or two spoonfuls of wheat flour for this pudding. - -We cannot approve of boiling batter puddings in moulds, as they are -rarely allowed sufficient space for swelling, and are therefore tough -and solid. Also, it is frequently very difficult to get a hot pudding -out of a mould. - -The above pudding is very nice baked in the dripping pan under a piece -of roast beef or veal. - - -FRITTERS.--Make the same mixture as for batter pudding. Eight eggs -beaten very light and thick, and stirred gradually into a quart of milk, -in turn with eight spoonfuls of flour; and, when all are united, beat -the whole very hard. In a large frying-pan melt a pound of lard, and -when it comes to a boil, put in with a large spoon a half tea-cupful of -batter. Fry them fast, a panful at a time, and as they require no -stirring they will soon be done. For the next panful, add half a pound -more of lard, and see that it is boiling well all the time. If there is -not enough of lard, or if it only simmers, the fritters will stick to -the bottom, and be heavy, dark, and greasy. Send them to table "hot and -hot," sprinkled with sugar. Eat them with sugar, cinnamon, and white -wine. This is the best possible receipt for plain fritters. - - -ORANGE FRITTERS.--For frying fruit fritters use nice fresh butter. Peel, -and cut into round slices (not very thin) some fine oranges, removing -the seeds carefully. Put into each fritter (while frying) a slice of -orange, and dredge with sugar. Eat them with sweetened orange juice. -These are fritters for company. - - -PEACH FRITTERS.--Take large ripe free-stone peaches, the best you can -get. Peel them, cut them in half, remove the stones, and put some loaf -sugar into the cavities from whence you took them. Have ready, in a -large frying-pan over the fire, an ample quantity of nice fresh butter, -boiling fast. Put in the batter, and to every spoonful allow half a -peach, laid on its back. When done take them up separately, and drain -the butter back into the pan. Serve up the fritters dredged with white -sugar. You may color these fritters pink by mixing in the batter a -little prepared alkanet, the chips tied up in a thin muslin bag, and -laid in a small saucer of sweet oil. Stir the colored oil into the -batter; it has no taste, but the color is beautiful. Fritters may be -colored green by mixing in the batter some of the juice obtained from -pounded spinach leaves. - - -APPLE OR QUINCE FRITTERS.--Pare and core some pippin or bell-flower -apples, or ripe quinces. Cut them into round slices, and fry one in -every fritter. Eat them with sweetened lemon juice. You may make -fritters with a large table-spoonful of any thick marmalade in the -centre. Or, with a large fresh oyster in the middle of each. Or, with a -table-spoonful of minced meat. These, also, are company fritters. - - -PANCAKES--Are very inferior to good fritters, and much more troublesome -to bake. They are the same ingredients mixed thinner; are also fried in -lard, and must be turned by tossing them over (one at a time) in the -frying-pan. - - -JUNKET.--Having turned a quart of rich milk, by stirring into it a half -tea-cupful of the water in which two or three square inches of rennet -has been soaked for several hours, set the milk in a covered pitcher, in -a warm place, till it becomes a firm curd, the whey separating from it, -and looking thin and greenish. Keep it on ice till just before it is -wanted for table. Then transfer it to a large bowl, and sweeten it well -with white sugar. Mix in two glasses of sweet wine, and grate over it a -nutmeg. It is very nice with extract of vanilla added to the wine, &c. - -It is not a good way to preserve a rennet by cutting it into little -pieces, and keeping it in wine, stirring the wine into milk when you -wish to form a curd. If turned with rennet wine, the curd will never -separate completely from the whey, which will therefore be always thick -and whitish. By using rennet water, the whey will be pure, thin, and of -a light green, and the curd very white and firm. In Philadelphia market, -dried rennets (which will keep a year or two hanging up in a cool dry -closet) are universally used to make curds, and are always to be bought -at small prices. They are cured by salting them, and stretching on a -bent rod. To use this rennet, cut off a small bit, and soak it several -hours, or over night, in a cup of lukewarm water. Then stir this water -into the milk. - - -MILK POTTAGE OR FARMER'S RICE.--Take some rich milk, and put it on to -boil in a pot of sufficient size. When it has begun to boil, stir in, by -degrees, enough of wheat flour to make it about as thick as the general -consistence of rice milk, and boil it well, stirring it frequently down -to the bottom. Add a few blades of mace, or some powdered cinnamon. -Knead together some flour and fresh butter, forming a lump of white -paste. Divide the paste into small round dumplings about the size of a -cent, and put them to boil with the milk. When the pottage is well -boiled, take it up, and transfer it to a tureen or deep white-ware dish, -and make it very sweet with good brown sugar. Grate some nutmeg over the -surface. - -This is an excellent addition to a winter supper-table, and is much -liked by children, for whom it is also good at the end of a plain -dinner. As a substitute for rice milk, it is better and more wholesome -than rice itself. - - -PLAIN RICE PUDDING.--Pick some rice, carefully removing from it the -husks, and all impurities; and if you find it the least sour or musty, -throw it away, and get some that is perfectly good. Wash it through two -or three waters, till it drains off quite clean. Stir a quarter of a -pound of this rice into a quart of good rich milk. If the milk is poor -and thin, and has been skimmed till it is blue, or mixed with water, the -pudding will be poor accordingly. In the country where cream is easily -to be obtained, add some to the milk which you use for the rice pudding. -Stir in also a quarter of a pound of good brown sugar, and a -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Set the pudding into an oven, and -bake till a brown skin covers the surface, and the rice is quite soft, -which you may ascertain by lifting a bit of the brown skin from the edge -and trying the rice. Eat it warm or cold. It is usual in the country to -put several of these rice puddings into the oven on baking days. - -They will be greatly improved by the addition of two or three beaten -eggs, and a few bits of fresh butter, stirred in with the rice and -sugar. Also powdered cinnamon. Rice is in itself so tasteless, that it -requires good flavoring. - - -PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING.--Pick, wash, and drain a pound of rice. -Moisten it with a quart of milk. Have ready a pound of seedless raisins. -Dredge them well all over with flour to prevent their sinking. Stir them -gradually into the rice and milk. Boil it in a cloth, leaving ample -space for it to swell. Keep the water very hot all the time. Eat it with -butter and sugar, seasoned with ground cinnamon. - - -RICE CUPS.--Boil in water, in the usual manner, a pound or more of -cleaned rice till it is perfectly soft. Drain it well, and mix it with a -quart of milk, seasoned with a mixed table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon -and nutmeg or mace. Boil it a second time till all the grains are -dissolved into a smooth mass, and their form cannot be distinguished. -Mould it in large tea-cups, pint bowls, or blanc-mange moulds; and when -it has taken the desired form, turn it out on dishes, and serve up with -it a small tureen of wine sauce, or of boiled custard made very sweet, -and seasoned, by boiling in the milk of which the custard was made a -few peach leaves, or some bitter almonds broken up, or a broken-up stick -of cinnamon, to be taken out when it is done. - - -BREAD PUDDING.--Grate or crumble as much stale wheat bread (omitting the -crust) as will fill a pint bowl when done. Boil a pint of good milk with -a broken-up stick of cinnamon in it. Strain the milk, and pour it -(boiling) over the bread. Sweeten it with three large table-spoonfuls of -sugar. Stir in one or two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Beat -four eggs till very thick and smooth, and add them, gradually, to the -mixture, when it is lukewarm. It will be much improved by the grated -peel and juice of a lemon or orange. Bake it in a deep dish or mould; -sift white sugar over it. Eat it warm, with sweet sauce flavored with -nutmeg. - - -BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.--Cut large even slices of yesterday's bread, -(_leaving on_ the crust) and spread them well with fresh butter. Strew -over them thickly half a pound of Zante currants, picked and washed. -Make a batter of four beaten eggs and a large pint of milk, seasoned -with powdered nutmeg or mace. Pour some of this batter into the bottom -of a deep white dish. Then put on as many slices of bread and currants -as will cover the bottom. Next, add the remainder of the batter, and -finish with slices of bread and butter strewed with currants. Bake till -the batter is set and firm. When done, serve it up warm. - - -A BROWN BETTY.--Pare, core, and slice thin some fine _juicy_ apples. -Cover with the apples the bottom of a large deep white-ware dish. -Sweeten them well with plenty of brown sugar; adding grated lemon or -orange peel. Strew over them a thick layer of bread-crumbs, and add to -the crumbs a _very few_ bits of fresh butter. Then put in another layer -of cut apples and sugar, followed by a second layer of bread-crumbs and -butter. Next more apples and sugar; then more bread-crumbs and butter; -repeat this till the dish is full, finishing it with bread-crumbs. Bake -it till the apples are entirely done and quite soft. Send it to table -hot. It will be improved (if in the country at cider-making season) by -adding to each layer of apples a very little sweet unfermented cider, -fresh from the press. - -This pudding is in some places called an Apple Pandowdy. We believe it -is Brown Betty in the South; Pandowdy in the North. It is a good plain -pudding if the butter is fresh and sweet, and not too much of it. The -apples must be _juicy_ and _not_ sweet. Sweet apples never cook well. - - -SWEETENED SWEET POTATOS.--The sweet potatos should be all about the same -size, or else so large as to require splitting. Boil them till, on -probing them with a fork, you find them soft all through. Peel off the -skin, and trim off the sharp points of each end. Place them in a large -baking dish, and lay among them some pieces of fresh butter; sprinkle -powdered sugar _profusely_ over them and among them, especially in the -vacancies between the potatos. Set the dish into a moderate oven, and -bake slowly till the butter and sugar are all melted and blended -together, forming a nice crust. They should be eaten not with the meat, -but _after_ it. They make a good supper or luncheon dish, and a plain -dessert at dinner for plain-living people. - -Sufficient butter and sugar will make the crust like a thick syrup, when -broken. They should be cooked this way only when in the height of their -season, and perfectly fresh and nice. When sweet potatos are old enough -to decay at the ends, give them up. Large sweet potatos may be first -boiled; then peeled and sliced thick, sprinkled thick with sugar, and -fried in fresh butter or lard; the lard well drained from them as they -are taken up. Eat _them_ with meat. - -They are good boiled very soft, peeled and sent to table mashed, (while -hot) with fresh butter--or made into thick flat cakes, and browned on -the top. - -It is a great waste to bake sweet potatos whole. If baked enough, (as -they seldom are) they "go all to skin." - - -APPLE DUMPLINGS.--For dumplings the apples should be large and -juicy--pippins, bellflowers, or the best you can get. Small sweet apples -make very poor dumplings. Having pared the apples, extract the cores -with a tin apple-corer, so as to leave them smooth and whole. Why is it -that so many families "have never had an apple corer in their house?" -They cost, at the utmost, but twenty-five cents, are to be had at all -the tinsmiths' and furnishing stores; and they screw out an apple core -in a minute; saving time and trouble. The apples being ready, make a -nice paste in the proportion of a small pint of finely-minced suet, to a -large quart of flour; one-half of the suet rubbed into the pan of flour, -(adding _a very little_ water) the other half sliced thin, and spread -all over the sheet of dough after it is rolled out; then folding it, and -rolling it out again. Cut the sheet of dough in as many circular pieces -as you have apples, allowing them large enough to close entirely over -the top, and rolling it thick enough to hold the apple securely without -danger of its breaking through. Put an apple on every piece of paste, -and fill with brown sugar the hole from whence the core was taken. -Squeeze on the sugar some fresh lemon juice, with the grated yellow -rind; or, add some powdered nutmeg or mace, or some rose-water. This -will make them very nice. They should be boiled in small cloths kept -clean for the purpose, dipped in hot water, and sprinkled with flour, -and room left for the dumpling to swell. Put them into a pot of boiling -water, and boil them steadily for near an hour. Serve them up very hot, -as they become heavy when cold. Eat with them butter and sugar, or cream -sauce. - - -PEACH DUMPLINGS.--Take large fine free-stone peaches. Peel them, cut -them in half, and extract the stones; fill the sockets with white sugar, -and put the two halves together. Make a nice suet paste, or, if more -convenient, of butter, but it must be quite fresh, and very nice. Allow -half a pound of butter to a large quart (or a pound) of sifted flour. -Rub half the butter into the pan of flour, and make it into a dough, -with a very little cold water. Too much water always makes tough heavy -paste. Then roll the paste into a sheet, and put on it with a knife the -remainder of the butter in regular bits. Fold it, roll it out again, and -divide it into circular pieces. Lay a peach on each. Gather up the dough -over the top, so as to form a well-shaped dumpling. Boil them in cloths -for full three-quarters of an hour or more. Eat them with cream sauce. - -Dumplings of raspberries, or blackberries, may be made as above. Also, -of gooseberries or currants, made very sweet. Quinces preserved whole -make excellent dumplings. - - -APPLE PUDDINGS--Are made like large dumplings, with suet paste, and -flavored with lemon, or rose, or nutmeg. The apples must be sliced. The -pudding should be tied in a cloth; put into a pot of fast-boiling water, -kept steadily boiling for two hours or more, and sweetened with brown -sugar as soon as it is taken up, cutting a round piece of paste out of -the top, and putting in with the sugar a small piece of fresh butter. - -Large puddings may be made in this manner of stoned cherries, damsons, -or plums, or of gooseberries, or currants--allowing plenty of fruit, and -making it very sweet; besides sending sugar to table with it. - - -ROLLED PUDDING.--Have ready a quart or more of apples stewed with _very -little_ water, sweetened with brown sugar, and flavored with lemon or -rose. Prepare a nice suet paste. Roll it out, and cut it into a square -sheet. Spread it _thickly_ with the stewed fruit, (not extending the -fruit quite to the edges of the dough) and roll it up as far as it will -go. Close it nicely at each end. Tie it in a cloth, dipped in hot water -and floured, and put it into a fast-boiling pot. Boil it well. Cut it -down in round slices. Eat it with butter and sugar beaten together, or -with cream sauce. You may make this pudding of any sort of thick -marmalade, spread over the sheet of paste; or, with ripe uncooked -currants, raspberries, or blackberries, mashed raw, sweetened, and -spread on thickly. This pudding is the same that common English people -call a "Jack in a blanket;" and sometimes "a Dog in a blanket." The -_blanket_ is supposed to mean the paste; the _dog_ is probably the -fruit. - - -FRUIT POT-PIES.--These are made in a pot lined with paste, interspersed -with small squares of the same dough, and covered with a paste lid. The -filling is of dried apples, peaches quartered, blackberries, -raspberries, ripe currants, or gooseberries; all well sweetened, and -cooked in their own juice, with a small tea-cupful of water at the -bottom to "start them." Both fruit and paste must be perfectly well -done. - -Fruit pot-pies are easier made and cooked, than fruit puddings or -dumplings. We recommend them highly for plain tables. They require more -sugar when they are dished. A large _bain-marie_ is excellent for -cooking any sort of pot-pie, the water being all in the outside kettle. - - -PLAIN BAKED CUSTARD.--Boil a quart of milk, with a small bunch of green -peach leaves in it, or a half dozen of peach kernels broken up. When the -milk has boiled well strain it into a broad pan, and set it away to -cool. In a shallow pan beat six eggs till very light, thick, and smooth. -Stir them, gradually, into the milk, in turn with a tea-cup of white -sugar, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon or mace. Transfer the -mixture to a deep white dish, set it into the oven, and bake it till -the top is well browned, but not scorched. When done, set it away to -cool, and grate nutmeg over the surface. - - -BOILED CUSTARD.--Make exactly the above mixture; but instead of baking, -boil it in a porcelain lined sauce-pan, stirring it all the time. As -soon as it comes to a boil, take it immediately from the fire, or it -will curdle. Put it into a glass or china pitcher, and set it to cool. A -_bain-marie_ is excellent for boiled custard. - -If custards are baked in cups, set them in an iron pan half full of warm -water. If too hot, or kept baking too long, they will be tough and -porous, and have whey at the bottom. So they will if the milk is warm -when the eggs are added. Good custards will cut down to the very bottom -as smooth and firm as the best blanc-mange. - - -APPLES BAKED WHOLE.--Never bake apples without paring and coring. They -will be found nearly all skin and core, and are troublesome and -inconvenient to eat. Have fine large apples; take off a thin paring, and -extract the core with a tin corer. Fill up the holes with brown sugar. -Place the apples, side by side, in a square tin pan, set them in an -oven, and bake them till, when tried with a fork, you find them soft all -through. Send them to table warm, but not burning hot. If you have -country cream to eat with them, so much the better. - - -BAKED PEARS.--Take good-sized pears. Small ones are not worth the -trouble of cooking. Peel them, split them in half, and remove the core, -the stem, and the blossom end. Strew them well with brown sugar, and lay -them on their backs in a large baking dish. A narrow slip of the yellow -rind of lemon or orange, (cut so thin as to look transparent,) will be a -great improvement, laid in the hollow of each pear. Also the juice -squeezed. Put into the dish sufficient molasses or steam-syrup to well -cover the pears. Place them in an oven, and bake them till they are -soft, but not till they break. If you have no lemon or orange, season -them with ground ginger or cinnamon. - -The great pound pears are baked as above, with the addition of port wine -and a few cloves, and colored red with a little cochineal. - - -COUNTRY CHARLOTTE.--Slice or quarter some fine juicy apples, having -pared and cored them. Put them on a large dish, sweeten them well with -brown sugar, set them in the oven, and bake them till soft enough to -mash smoothly. Then cut some slices of bread, butter them slightly, and -dip every one in sweet cider fresh from the press. Let them soak in the -cider a short time, but not till they break. Take them out of the -cider, spread every one thickly with the mashed apple, (sprinkling on -more sugar) and send them to the dinner table in a deep dish or pan. - - -A PLAIN CHARLOTTE.--Stew very nicely any sort of ripe fruit, (currants, -gooseberries, blackberries, stoned cherries, or stoned plums,) and as -soon as you take them from the fire make them very sweet with brown -sugar. Prepare some large slices of buttered bread, with the crust pared -off. Cover each slice thickly with the stewed fruit. Lay some in the -bottom of a deep dish, and stand up others all round its sides. Fill up -the dish with the same, and sift white sugar over the surface. - -It may be made of sliced sponge-cake, spread thickly with stewed dried -peaches. - - -GOOSEBERRY FOOL.--This foolish name signifies an excellent preparation -of gooseberries; stewed, mashed, and made very sweet with brown sugar. -Have ready in another dish a good boiled custard. When all has become -cool, mix well together in a large bowl the stewed gooseberries and the -custard, and season the mixture well with nutmeg. It will be found very -good. - -Any other "fool" may be made in the same manner, of stewed fruit and -boiled custard. It saves the trouble and expense of making paste, or -can be prepared at a shorter notice. It is good either at dinner or -tea. - -We hope somebody will think of a better name for it. - - -POTATO PASTE.--Boil three moderate-sized potatos till very soft. Then -peel and mash them fine and smooth. Put them into a deep pan, and mix -them well with a quart of flour and a half pint of lard; or what is -better, with that quantity of beef dripping, or the dripping of fresh -roast pork. Never for any sort of crust use mutton dripping. Having -mixed the mashed potato, dripping, and flour into a lump, roll it out -into a thick sheet. Sprinkle it with flour, and spread over it evenly a -thin layer of dripping or lard. Fold it again, and set it in a cool -place till wanted. It is good for meat pies, and for boiled meat -pudding, or any sort of dumplings. - - -VERY PLAIN PIE-CRUST.--Sift a quart of flour into a pan. Mix together, -with a knife, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a -pound of lard, and when they are well blended mix them with the flour, -and form them into a dough with as little water as possible--the water -being very cold. Use ice water in summer. Avoid touching the paste with -your hands, but use a knife almost entirely. If your hand is warm, do -not rub butter into flour with it, but manage all the mixing with a -knife. If you have a cool hand, you may rub the butter into the flour, -and reserve the lard to spread all over the sheet of dough. Roll it out -lightly. Dredge with flour, fold it, spread on the lard, and roll it -again. Divide it into two pieces, and roll out each of them. Trim the -edges nicely, and make them to fit your pie-dish. If one is for bottom -crust, roll it out thinnest towards the centre, having for this part of -the process a very small rolling-pin, but a finger long. Grease with -lard a deep dish, or soup plate, and line it with the bottom crust. Fill -it up with the fruit you intend for the pie, sweetened well with brown -sugar, and heaping the fruit high in the centre. Cover it with a lid of -paste, trim, and notch the edges neatly, and make a cross slit in the -top; set it in the oven, and bake it steadily till it is a light brown. -When it seems to be done, lift up a small piece at one side to try if -the fruit is soft. Apples for pies should be pared, cored, and sliced -very thin. If green, stew them before they are baked. - -If you have saved enough of the dripping of roast beef, veal, or pork, -(skimmed and put away in a covered crock) it will be good shortening for -common pies--far superior to salt butter, and much lighter. Salt renders -pastry hard and heavy. - -Never use suet for _baked_ paste. It is only for dumplings and pot-pies. -Bread dough, or any dough made with yeast, is not good when boiled, -becoming tough and leathery, and being very unwholesome. - -Except in very plain country places a fruit pie, with two crusts, -(under and upper) is now seen but rarely. _Meat_ pies, or birds, -however, should have two crusts. The gravy is a great improvement to the -under one. English people usually make their fruit pies with a top-crust -only, putting a turned down tea-cup under the centre of the lid to -collect the juice, (of course removing the cup when the pie is cut.) It -is a good method in a country where the cost of flour is high. - -Too much economy in the shortening will infallibly make the crust very -poor, hard, heavy, and unwholesome. If you cannot afford dessert paste, -do not attempt pies at all; but substitute a plain charlotte, or slices -of bread and butter, covered with stewed fruit, sweetened, and laid in a -deep dish. - - -COMMON FRUIT PIES.--Make the paste as above. For baking, use only apples -that are juicy, and rather sour. If green, stew them before they are put -in the pie, and make them very sweet with brown sugar. Peaches should be -peeled and quartered, leaving out the stones. Of cherries, take the -large red juicy pie cherries. Black cherries, (when baked) go all to -stones, and they are not worth the trouble of cooking, though very good -when eaten from the trees. Currants must be carefully stripped from the -stems, and made very sweet. Gooseberries must be "top and tailed," and -require great sweetening; so do cranberries. Blackberries make good -plain pies, and are very juicy if ripe. All pies should be well filled. - -Pies may be made of ripe wild grapes, stewed in molasses or maple sugar. - - -EXCELLENT PLAIN PASTE.--Sift into a deep pan a quart and a pint of the -best superfine flour. Have ready (set on ice, and covered with a thick -double cloth) a pound of the very best fresh butter. When you want to -use it, cut it into four quarters. Cut one quarter into very little -bits, and with a broad knife mix it well into the flour, adding, by -degrees, a very little water, no more than half a tumbler. Some flour, -however, requires more water than others. Avoid touching the dough with -your hands, in case they should be warm. Take out the lump of dough, -dredge it with flour, and lay it on your pasteboard. Keep on a plate -near you a little extra flour for sprinkling and rolling. Roll out the -sheet of dough very thin, having floured the rolling-pin to prevent its -sticking. Place, with a knife, the second quarter of butter in little -bits all over the sheet of paste, at equal distances. Then fold it -square, (covering the butter with the corners of paste) dredge it, and -roll it out again to receive the third quarter of butter. Repeat this -again, till all the butter is in; always rolling very fast, and pressing -on _lightly_. You will see, towards the last, the paste puffing into -little blisters all over the surface; a sign of success. When the last -layer of butter is all in, roll the whole into a large sheet; roll it -round like a scroll, and put it away in a cold place, but not so cold -as to freeze it, for it will then be spoiled. When you are ready for it -bring it out, cut it down, and roll out each piece ready for use. There -is no better family paste than this, for all sorts of pies; meat or bird -pies, especially. - - -LEMON BREAD PUDDING.--Mince very fine a quarter of a pound of beef suet. -Have ready a pint and a half of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Prepare the -yellow rind of a large lemon, grated off from the white skin beneath, -and squeeze the juice among it. Mix together in a deep pan the -bread-crumbs and suet, adding four or five table-spoonfuls of powdered -sugar, and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. -Beat in a broad shallow pan five eggs till very smooth and thick. Add -them gradually to the other ingredients, a little at a time. Have ready -a square pudding-cloth, scalded and floured. Pour in the mixture, and -tie the cloth tightly, but not closely, as room must be left for the -pudding to swell in boiling. Put it into a pot of hot water, and boil it -steadily for two hours. Send wine sauce to table with it--or cold sauce, -of beaten butter, and sugar, and nutmeg. - -If you use butter instead of suet, you can bake this pudding. - - -PLAIN PLUM PUDDING.--This is for a small plain-living family. Chop very -fine half a pound of nice fresh beef suet. Stone a half pound of very -good raisins, or use the sultana or seedless sort. Dredge them well on -all sides with flour to prevent their sinking to the bottom. Grate the -yellow rind of a large fresh lemon, and strain the juice into the saucer -on which you have grated the rind. It will be still better if you use -the rind and juice of an orange as well as of a lemon. Put into a bowl -half a pint of grated bread-crumbs, and a heaped table-spoonful of -flour, and pour on them a half pint of boiling milk. Beat in a shallow -pan four eggs till very thick and light. Mix the suet gradually into the -bread, adding alternately the beaten egg, (a little at a time) the lemon -and orange, and four heaped table-spoonfuls of sugar. Lastly, stir in by -degrees, the raisins, well floured. Put the mixture into a square -pudding-cloth spread out into a deep pan, and dipped in boiling water. -Tie it securely, leaving room to swell. Boil it three hours. - -Eat with it a sauce of butter, sugar, and nutmeg, beaten together. - - - - -FINE DESSERTS. - - -THE BEST PUFF-PASTE.--To a pound of the best fresh butter allow a pound -of the finest flour, sifted into a deep pan. Have on a plate some -additional sifted flour for sprinkling and rolling in. Divide the pound -of butter into four equal parts, and three of those parts divide again -into two portions. Mix the first quarter of butter into the mass of -flour, cutting it with a broad-bladed knife. If your hands are naturally -warm, avoid touching the dough with them, as their heat will render it -heavy. Paste, to be very good, should be made on a marble slab. All -well-furnished kitchens or pastry rooms should be provided with -marble-topped tables, and marble mortars. Add gradually to the lump of -dough a _very little cold_ water, barely sufficient to moisten it with -the first quarter of butter, and mix it well with the aid of the broad -knife; but proceed as fast as you can, and do not work with it too long. -Too much water will render it tough, and too much working will make it -heavy. Then sprinkle the marble slab with some of the spare flour, take -the lump of paste from the pan, and roll it out into a sheet. Divide one -of the portions of butter into little bits, and with the knife disperse -them equally all over the sheet of paste. Then sprinkle it again with -flour, fold it up so as to cover the butter, and roll it out again. -Proceed in this manner till you have got in all the butter, rolling -always lightly, and you will soon see the surface of the dough puffing -up in little blisters, a sign that it is becoming light. Besides the -first mixing in the lump, the butter will then be put in with what are -called six turns. When baked, you will see that every turn makes a layer -or sheet. If you choose to multiply them, you may make nine sheets. We -have seen twelve. All this must be done fast and lightly. Then put away -the paste to cool for ten minutes before arranging it in the dishes. -This quantity will make two pies or four tarts. In baking, let the oven -be hot, and keep up a steady heat, so the paste may not fall after it -has first risen. When pale brown, it is done. - - -SHELLS.--For shells take the best puff paste, and line with it large -deep plates, the size of a soup-plate. They should have broad rims. -Notch the edges of the paste handsomely with a sharp penknife, and be -careful not to plaster on, afterwards, any bits by way of mending or -rectifying an error. When baked, every patch in the border will show -itself plainly. Bake the shells entirely empty, till pale brown all -over. When cool fill them, _quite up the top_, with whatever marmalade -or stewed fruit you have prepared for the purpose. In this way (baking -them empty,) the shells are thoroughly done, and not clammy and heavy at -the bottom, as they always are when filled _before_ baking. The fruit -requires no other cooking, having been done once already. Sift white -sugar over the surface. If for company whip some cream, sweeten it, and -flavor it with lemon, orange, pine-apple, strawberry or vanilla, and -pile it on the surface of the shell before it goes to table. - -Small tarts may, in this way, be baked empty, for patty-pans, and filled -with ripe fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or grated -pine-apple, made very sweet, and creamed on the top--or you may fill the -shells with any sort of sweetmeats, either preserves or marmalade, or -with mince-meat. Shells may be made thus, and filled with stewed -oysters, or reed-birds, cooked previously, and served up warm; or with -nicely-dressed lobster. You may make lids for them of the same paste -baked by itself on a shallow plate, and when taken off fitting well as a -cover to put on afterwards before sending to table. - - -BORDERS OF PASTE.--These are made of fine puff-paste cut into handsome -patterns, or wreaths of leaves or flowers. They are laid round the broad -edge of the deep plate that contains a rich pudding, such as lemon, -orange, almond, cocoa-nut, pine-apple, &c.; the dish being full down to -the bottom and up to the top, and having no paste but the border round -the edge. They must be baked in the dish on which they come to table, -and not in tin or iron, as the pudding cannot be transferred. At -handsome tables, a pudding baked with a paste _under_ it (lining the -dish,) is now seen but seldom. - -Instead of wreaths, you may make a puff-paste border by laying a thick -evenly cut band of paste round the flat rim of the dish, and notching -it, forming with a penknife small squares about an inch wide, and -turning one square up and one square down alternately, _cheveux de -frize_ fashion. Or you may make the squares near two inches wide and -turn over one corner sharp, leaving the other flat. This looks pretty -when baked, if the paste is _very puff_. - - -LEMON PUDDING.--To make two puddings take two fine large ripe lemons, -and rub them under your hand on a table. Grate off the thin yellow rind -upon a large lump of loaf sugar. Cut the lemon, and squeeze the juice -into a saucer through a strainer, to avoid the seeds. Put half a pound -of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, (including the sugar on -which you have rubbed the lemons) and cut up in it half a pound of the -best fresh butter, adding the juice. Stir them to a light cream with a -wooden spaddle, which is shorter than a mush-stick, and flattened at one -end; that end rather thin, and rather broad. Beat in a shallow pan, -(with hickory rods) six eggs, till very thick and smooth, and stir them -gradually into the mixture. Have ready some of the best puff-paste, made -in the proportion of a pint or half a pound of very nice fresh butter to -a pint or half a pound of sifted flour. Take china or white-ware dishes -with broad rims. Butter the rim, and lay round it neatly a border of the -paste. _Put no paste inside the dish beneath the mixture._ Fill each -dish to the top with the pudding mixture, and set it immediately into -the oven. It will bake in about half an hour When done, and browned on -the surface, set it to cool, and send it to table in the dish it was -baked in. - -Fine puddings are now made without an under crust, but merely a handsome -border of puff-paste laid round the edge, and helped with the pudding. -Sift sugar over the surface. This quantity will make one large pudding, -or two small ones. - -To almost all puddings the flavor of lemon or orange is an improvement. -A genuine _baked_ lemon pudding, (such as was introduced by the justly -celebrated Mrs. Goodfellow,) and is well known at Philadelphia dinner -parties, must have _no flour_ or bread whatever. The mixture only of -butter, sugar, and eggs, (with the proper flavoring) and when baked it -cuts down smooth and shining, like a nice custard. Made this way, they -are among the most delicious of puddings; but, of course, are not -intended for children or invalids. We have already given numerous -receipts for _plain_ family desserts. In this _chapter_ the receipts are -"for company." The author was _really_ a pupil of Mrs. Goodfellow's, and -for double the usual term, and while there took notes of every thing -that was made, it being the desire of the liberal and honest -instructress that her scholars _should learn in reality_. - - -ALMOND PUDDING.--Blanch in hot water a quarter of a pound of shelled -sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, and as you blanch them throw -them into a bowl of cold water. When all are thus peeled, take them out -singly, wipe them dry in a clean napkin, and lay them on a plate. Pound -them one at a time in a marble mortar till they become a smooth paste, -adding frequently a few drops of rose-water to make them light and -preserve their whiteness, mixing the bitter almonds with the sweet. As -you pound them, take out the paste and lay it in a saucer with a -tea-spoon. Without the rose-water they will become oily and -dark-colored. Without a few bitter almonds the others will be insipid. -The almonds may be thus prepared a day before they are wanted for use. -Cut up a large quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a large quarter of -a pound of powdered sugar, and stir them together with a spaddle till -very light and creamy. Add a large wine-glass of mixed wine and brandy, -and half a grated nutmeg. Beat, till they stand alone, the whites only -of six eggs, and stir them gradually into the butter and sugar, in turn -with the pounded almonds. Stir the whole very hard at the last. Put the -mixture into a deep dish with a broad rim, and fill it up to the top, -laying a border of puff-paste all round the rim. Serve up the pudding -cool, having sifted sugar over it. - -_Boiled Almond Pudding_--Is made as above; only with whole eggs, both -yolks and whites beaten together. Boil it in a _bain-marie_ or in a -thick square cloth, in a pot of boiling water. When done, turn it out -and send it to table warm. Eat it with sugar, wet with rose-water. - -_Orange Pudding_--Is made exactly like lemon pudding; the ingredients -in the same proportion, and baked without an under crust, having a -border of puff-paste all round the edge, and sent to table in the dish -it was baked in. These fine-baked puddings should have no addition -whatever of bread-crumbs or flour. They should cut down smooth and -glassy. - -_Boiled Lemon or Orange Pudding_--Make the foregoing mixture either with -two lemons or two oranges, adding to the other ingredients a half pint -finely-crumbled sponge cake. Boil the mixture either in a _bain-marie_ -or a thick pudding cloth, and serve it up warm. For sauce, have ready -butter and sugar beaten to a cream, and flavored well with lemon or -orange, and grated nutmeg. - - -COCOA-NUT PUDDING.--Break up a ripe cocoa-nut. Having peeled off the -brown skin, wash all the pieces of nut in cold water, and wipe them dry -on a clean napkin. Then grate the cocoa-nut _very fine_ into a pan, till -you have a quart. In a deep pan cut up a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, and add a very light quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. -Stir together (with a spaddle,) the butter and sugar till they are very -light and creamy, and add a grated nutmeg. Beat, (till they stand alone) -the _whites only_ of six eggs; the yolks may be reserved for soft -custards. Stir the beaten white of egg gradually into the pan of butter -and sugar, alternately with the grated cocoa-nut, a little at a time of -each, and a glass of mixed brandy and white wine. Stir the whole very -hard. Fill with it a broad-edged deep white dish, and lay a puff-paste -border all round the rim. Bake it light brown, and when cool sift white -sugar over it, serving it up in the dish it was baked in. - -_Boiled Cocoa-nut Pudding._--For this make the above mixture, and boil -it in a mould, or in a _bain-marie_, with the water in the outside -kettle. Eat it either warm or cold. - - -SWEET POTATO PUDDING.--Wash, boil, and peel some fine sweet potatos. -Mash them, and rub them through a coarse sieve--this will make them -loose and light. If merely _mashed_ the pudding will clod and be heavy. -In a deep pan stir to a cream a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and -a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; adding a grated nutmeg, a -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a half glass of white wine, and a -half glass of brandy. Beat in a shallow pan three eggs, till very thick -and smooth, and stir them into the mixture of butter and sugar, -alternately with the sweet potato. At the last mix all thoroughly with a -very hard stirring. Put the mixture into a deep dish, and lay a border -of puff-paste all round the rim. Set the pudding immediately into a -rather brisk oven, and when cool sift white sugar over it. For two of -these puddings _double_ the quantities of all the ingredients. - -_White Potato Pudding_--Is made exactly as above. Chestnut pudding -also--the large Spanish chestnuts, boiled, peeled, and mashed. - -_Fine Pumpkin Pudding_--Also, allowing to the above ingredients a half -pint of stewed pumpkins, squeezed dry and rubbed through a sieve. - -_Cashaw Pudding._--A similar pudding may be made of stewed cashaw, or -winter squash. - - -PINE-APPLE TART.--Take a fine large ripe pine-apple. Remove the leaves, -and quarter it without paring, standing up each quarter in a deep plate, -and grating it down till you come to the rind. Strew plenty of powdered -sugar over the grated fruit. Cover it, and let it rest for an hour. Then -put it into a porcelain kettle, and steam it in its own syrup till -perfectly soft. Have ready some empty shells of puff-paste, baked either -in patty-pans or in soup plates. When they are cool, fill them full with -the grated pine-apple; add more sugar, and lay round the rim a border of -puff-paste. - - -QUINCE PIES.--Wash well, pare, and core some fine ripe quinces, having -cut out all the blemishes. Put the cores and parings into a small -sauce-pan, and stew them in a little water, till all broken to pieces. -Then strain and save the quince water. Having quartered the quinces, or -sliced them in round slices, transfer them to a porcelain stew-pan, and -pour over the quinces water extracted from boiling the cores and -parings. Let them cook in this till quite soft all through. Make them -very sweet with powdered sugar, and fill with them two deep soup plates -that have been baked empty, with a puff paste border round the rims. -Fill them up to the top, (they are already cooked) and sift sugar over -them--or, you may pile on the surface of each some ice-cream. You may -cook the quinces whole, and lay one on each tart. - - -FINE APPLE PIES--May be made in the same manner, flavored with the -grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon. The apples should be fine juicy -pippins. If done whole, lay one on each patty-pan tart, and stick into -the core hole a slip of the yellow rind of lemon, pared so thin as to be -nearly transparent. - - -A MERINGUE PUDDING.--Rub off upon a large lump of _sugar_ the yellow -rind of two fine ripe lemons, and mix it with a pound of powdered loaf -sugar, adding the juice. Whip, to a stiff froth, the _whites only_ of -eight eggs; and then, gradually, beat in the sugar and lemon, adding a -heaped table-spoonful of the finest flour. Spread part of the mixture -thickly over the bottom of a deep dish, the rim of which has been -bordered with a handsome wreath of puff-paste, and baked. Lay upon it a -thick layer of stiff currant or strawberry jelly. Then fill up the -dish, and set it, a few minutes in a rather cool oven to brown slightly. -This pudding is for dinner company. If you use oranges, omit half the -grated peel. - -You may flavor the meringue with vanilla. Split, and break up a small -vanilla bean, and boil it in a _very little_ cream till all the vanilla -flavor is extracted, the cream tasting of it strongly. Then strain it -well, and mix the vanilla cream with the white of egg. Or, a little -_home-made_ extract of vanilla will be still better. This is obtained by -splitting and breaking up some vanilla beans, and steeping them for a -week or two in a bottle of _absolute_ alcohol; then straining the -liquid, transferring it to a clean bottle, and keeping it closely -corked. Very little of what is called "Extract of Vanilla" is good, and -it is more expensive than to make it yourself. Also, what is generally -sold for essence of lemon is very inferior to real lemon juice. - - -JELLY OR MARMALADE PUDDING.--Divide the paste equally and line two -puff-paste shells. Bake them empty; and while baking, beat till very -light and thick, the yolks of six eggs. Mix the beaten egg with a -liberal portion of any nice kind of fruit, jelly or marmalade, and boil -it ten minutes in a sauce-pan, stirring it well. Take it up and set it -away to cool. When cold, fill with it the baked shells. Fill them up to -the top with the mixture, and before they go to table sift powdered -white sugar over the surface of the puddings. - - -CHEESE PUDDING.--Take a quarter of a pound of excellent cheese; rich, -but not strong or old. Cut it in small bits, and then beat it (a little -at a time) in a marble mortar. Add a quarter of a pound of the best -fresh butter. Cut it up, and pound it in the mortar with the cheese, -till perfectly smooth and well mixed. Beat five eggs till very thick and -smooth. Mix them, gradually, with the cheese and butter. Put the mixture -into a deep dish with a rim. Have ready some puff-paste, and lay a broad -border of it all round the edge, ornamenting it handsomely. Set it -immediately into a moderate oven, and bake it till the paste is browned, -and has risen very high all round the edge of the dish. Sift white sugar -over it before it goes to table. - -It is intended that the cheese taste shall predominate. But, if -preferred, you may make the mixture very sweet by adding powdered sugar; -it may be seasoned with nutmeg and mace. Either way is good. - -It may be baked in small patty-pans, lined at the bottom and sides with -puff-paste. Remove them from the tins as soon as they come out of the -oven, and place them on a large dish. - -This pudding is very nice made of rich fresh cream cheese; the rind, of -course, being pared off. Cream cheese pudding will require sugar and -spice--that is, a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg, mace, and -cinnamon, all mixed; two ounces of fresh butter, and six eggs. - - -FLORENDINES.--These are made of any sort of fruit, stewed in its own -juice or in sweetmeat syrup, but when practicable, without any water. A -pint of this fruit is mixed with half a pint of fresh butter, and half a -pint of powdered sugar stirred together to a light cream, and then mixed -with three well-beaten eggs, and the fruit stirred in alternately with -the beaten butter and sugar. Have ready baked shells of puff-paste, -ready to be filled with the mixture. The fruit may be apples, quinces, -peaches, gooseberries, currants, raspberries. Cranberries, gooseberries, -and currants, require additional sugar, as they are naturally very sour. -If you use plums or cherries for any sort of cooking, stone them first. - - -PEACH PIES.--Take a sufficient number of fine juicy freestone peaches. -Clingstones are very hard and insipid when raw, and still more tasteless -when cooked. Peel the peaches and quarter them, having removed the -stones. Stew them in their own juice, and while hot make them very sweet -with white sugar. When you put them to stew, place among them a bunch of -fresh green peach leaves, to be removed when the peaches are done. Or, -cook with them some peach kernels, blanched in hot water, to be picked -out when the stewing is finished. Peach leaves or kernels communicate a -flavor which to most persons is pleasant. Have ready some puff-paste -shells; baked, and beginning to cool. Fill them to the top with the -stewed peaches, and pile on them some whipped cream sweetened, and -flavored with noyau or rose-water. - - -A FRUIT CHARLOTTE.--Have ready a large fresh almond sponge cake, or lady -cake. Cut a round or circular piece to fit the bottom of a great glass -bowl. Also, about twelve or fourteen oblong slices, to stand up all -round to line the sides. Have ready two quarts or more of ripe -strawberries or raspberries. Mash the fruit to a jam, and having made it -very sweet with white sugar, spread it thickly over the pieces of cake. -Lay the circular piece of cake in the bottom of the bowl and stand up -the others all round the sides, all close to each other or wrapping over -a little. Proceed to fill the bowl with the fruit; and when half way up, -put on another layer of sliced cake spread with fruit. Then fill up with -fruit to the top. Have ready a quart of whipped cream flavored with -vanilla or bitter almonds. Heap it high on the bowl, and set it in a -cool place till it goes to table. This is a very fine article for a nice -dessert, and can be prepared at a short notice, and without going down -stairs, as it requires no cooking. - -For the whipped cream, you may pile the bowl with any sort of white -ice-cream ready made, and if there is no fresh fruit in season, -substitute marmalade or fruit jelly. - -If you have no large bowl you may serve up this charlotte in glass or -china saucers, laying in the bottom of each a circular slice of cake -spread over with ripe fruit or marmalade. Fill up with the same, and -finish with whipped cream, or ice-cream heaped on the top. - - -VANILLA CUSTARDS.--Split a vanilla bean, break it into small bits, and -boil it in a half pint of milk, till all the flavor of the vanilla is -extracted. Strain it through a very fine strainer, cover it, and set it -aside. Boil a quart of rich milk, and when it comes to a boil set it -away to cool. Beat eight eggs till very thick and smooth, (and when the -milk is cold) add that which is flavored with vanilla, and stir it in -gradually with a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. Divide the -mixture in custard cups, (filling them to the top) and set them into an -iron bake-pan filled with boiling water, reaching nearly to the the rim -of the cups. Put them into a moderate oven, and bake them a pale brown. -When cool, grate nutmeg, or lay a maccaroon on the top over each. Never -send custards warm to table. If well made, and baked not too much, there -will be no whey at the bottom of the cups, and the custards will be -smooth and firm all through, and have no spongy holes in them. - -To make soft custards, omit the whites of all the eggs, and have a -double quantity of yolks. The whites may be used for almond or cocoa-nut -pudding, for lady cake, for meringue or icing, and for kisses or -maccaroons. - -_Orange Custards._--Prepare four large ripe oranges, by rolling them -under your hand on a table to increase the juice. Use none of the peel -for these custards, but reserve it for something else. Beat in a shallow -pan twelve eggs till thick and smooth. Mix the orange juice with a -wineglass of cold water, and stir it gradually into the beaten egg, with -a small tumblerful of powdered sugar. There is no milk in these -custards. Divide them into custard cups, and beat them ten minutes. When -cold, grate nutmeg over them. - -_Lemon Custard_--Is made in the above manner, with the juice of four -large lemons, (omitting the rind) a small wineglass of cold water, -twelve beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. Any of -these fine custards may be boiled in a _bain-marie_, with water in the -outside kettle, and there is no way better. When boiled and cool, grate -in some nutmeg, and serve up the custard in a glass or china pitcher, -with saucers of the same to eat it from, or divide it in small glass -cups with handles to them. - -Lemon or orange custards are very fine. They are made without milk. - -_Chocolate Custard._--Make some strong chocolate, allowing a quarter of -a pound of the best, (which is Baker's prepared cocoa) to a quart of -rich milk; first mixing the milk and scraped chocolate to a smooth -paste. Boil them together a quarter of an hour. While warm, stir in two -or three table-spoonfuls of loaf sugar. Then set it away to cool. Have -ready eight well-beaten eggs, and stir them gradually into the -chocolate. Bake the mixture in cups, and serve them up with a chocolate -maccaroon laid on the top of each. - -_Almond and Maccaroon Custard._--Boil in half a pint of rich milk a -handful of _bitter_ almonds, blanched and broken up. When highly -flavored, strain that milk and set it aside. Boil a quart of milk by -itself, and when cold stir in, gradually, eight well beaten eggs, adding -the flavored milk, and half a pint of powdered sugar. Stir the whole -very hard at the last. Bake it in cups, and when done and cold, lay on -the top of each a maccaroon with four others placed around it; five -maccaroons to each custard. Or, if the maccaroons are made in the house, -let every one be large enough to cover the top of the custard like a -lid. - - -FINE PLUM PUDDING.--This pudding is best when prepared, (all but the -milk and eggs,) the day before it is wanted. Seed and cut in half one -pound of the best bloom raisins; and pick, wash, and dry before the -fire, a pound of Zante currants, (commonly called plums.) Dredge the -fruit well with flour, to prevent its sinking or clogging. Take one -pound of fresh beef suet, freed from the skin and strings, and chopped -_very fine_; a pint of grated bread-crumbs, and half a pint of sifted -flour; a large quarter of a pound of the best sugar, a large -table-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed, and two powdered -nutmegs--all the spice steeped in a half pint of mixed wine and brandy. -Put away these ingredients separately, closely covered, and let them -stand undisturbed all night. Next morning proceed to finish the pudding, -which requires at least six hours boiling. Beat nine eggs till very -thick and smooth, then add gradually a pint of rich milk, in turn with -the bread-crumbs and flour. Mix with the sugar the grated yellow rind -and juice of two large lemons or two oranges, and add gradually to the -mixture all the ingredients, stirring very hard. If you find it too -thick, add by degrees some more milk; if too thin, some more -bread-crumbs. But take care not to have too much bread or flour, or the -pudding will be solid and heavy. Dip a large strong cloth in boiling -water; shake it out, and spread it in a large pan. Dredge it lightly -with flour, and pour in the mixture. Tie it tightly, but leave -sufficient space for the pudding to swell in boiling. Put it into a pot -of fast-boiling water, and boil it steadily six hours or more, not -taking it up till wanted for table. Before turning it, dip the cloth for -a moment in cold water to make the pudding come out easily. Have ready -some slips of citron or of blanched sweet almonds, or both, and stick -them, liberally, all over the surface of the pudding after you have -dished it. Serve it up with wine sauce highly flavored, or with butter -and sugar beaten to a cream, and seasoned with nutmeg and rose. Do not -set the pudding on fire to burn out the liquor; that practice has had -its day, and is over. It was always foolish. - -If you wish to send it to a distant place, (for instance, to some part -of the world where plum puddings are not known or not made) you may -preserve it, (after boiling it well,) by leaving it tied up in the cloth -it was cooked in; hanging it up in a cool dry place, and then packing it -well in a tin vessel having a close fitting cover. Paste a band of thick -white paper all around the place where the lid shuts down, and put into -a tight box the vessel that contains the pudding. When it arrives at its -destination, the friend who receives it will pare off thinly the -outside, and tying up the pudding in a fresh clean cloth, will boil it -over again for an hour or more; and when done the surface may be then -decorated with slips of citron or almond. It has been said that in this -way a plum pudding can be kept for _six_ months, as good as ever. It -cannot. But it may keep six _weeks_. Do not _fry_ or _broil_ plum -pudding that is left at dinner. The slices will be greasy and heavy. But -tie the piece that remains in a small cloth, and _boil_ it over again -for an hour. It will then be nearly as good as on the first day. Believe -in no wonders that you hear, of the long keeping of either plum pudding, -plum cake, or mince meat, which are all of the same family. However long -they may be preserved from absolute decomposition, these things are -always best when fresh. - - -MINCE PIES.--The best mince meat is made of fresh beef's tongue boiled, -peeled, and when quite cold, chopped very fine. The next best is of -beef's heart boiled and chopped. The next of cold roast beef. And the -next, of the lean of cold boiled beef, quite fresh, and cooked -especially for the purpose. All the meat must be fresh, and not minced -till entirely cold. To two large pounds of lean meat allow two small -pounds of nice kidney suet, cleared from skin and strings, and chopped -very small; two pounds of fine juicy apples, pared, cored, and minced; -two pounds of Zante currants, washed, and picked clean; two pounds of -fine bloom raisins, seeded and chopped, or of seedless sultana raisins -cut in half; two pounds of the best sugar; two large nutmegs, powdered; -a table-spoonful of ground cinnamon; the same quantity of ground ginger, -with the juice and grated yellow rind of six large lemons, or the juice -of six oranges, and their grated rind; a pint of Madeira or sherry, and -half a pint of brandy; lastly, half a pound of citron cut into slips, -rather large. If the citron is chopped small it cannot be distinguished -among the other ingredients, and its flavor is lost. When all is -prepared, mix well in a large pan the chopped meat, suet, and fruit. -Then, gradually add the spice, having steeped it in the liquor all the -preceding night, mixing the whole thoroughly, and putting in the citron -at the last. Line with fine puff-paste deep pie-dishes, or patty-pans. -Fill them, quite full of the mince, heaping it higher towards the -centre; and put on a lid, handsomely decorated with puff-paste -ornaments, and having a cross slit in the centre surrounded with paste -leaves or flowers. Set the pies immediately into a moderately brisk -oven, and bake them a light brown. Eat them warm. If baked the preceding -day, heat them again before they go to table. The foolish custom of -setting the pies on fire after they come to table, and causing a blue -blaze to issue from the liquor that is in them, is now obsolete, and -considered ungenteel and tavern-like. If this practice originated in a -polite desire to _frighten the ladies_, its purpose is already a -failure, for the ladies are not frightened; that is, not really. - -Mincemeat will taste more fresh and pleasant if the apples are not added -till the day the pies are made. It should be kept well-secured from air -and damp, in stone jars closely covered. Whenever a jar is opened to -take out some for immediate use, pour in a large glass or two of brandy, -and stir it about. It is not true that mincemeat will keep all winter, -even by this preservative. It is sure to become musty (or worse,) before -two months. It is best to make fresh mincemeat at least three times -during the season. When the cold weather is over, do not attempt it, -unless a little for immediate use. - -Mincemeat, with a double portion of excellent raisins, (cut in half,) -will do very well without currants, which are very troublesome to -prepare; and those imported of late years are rarely of good quality. - -We have heard of West India mincemeat made with cold roast turkey; -chopped pine-apple; grated cocoa-nut; preserved ginger chopped, and -moistened with its own syrup; and seasoned with nutmeg and noyau. - -The above mince pies are for company. - - -CALF'S FEET JELLY.--Select the largest and best calf's feet. Four is -called a set. Choose those that, after the hair has been well scalded -and scraped off, are prepared with the skins left on. There is much -glutinous substance in the skin itself, therefore it adds to the -strength and firmness of the jelly. The feet being made perfectly clean, -split them upwards as far as you can, and put them to boil in a gallon -of _very clear_ soft water. Boil them till they have all gone to pieces, -and the flesh is reduced to rags, and the liquid to one half. Strain the -liquid through a fine sieve into a white-ware pan, and set it away to -cool. When quite cold, it should be a cake of firm jelly. Take it out, -and scrape from it all the fat at the top and sediment at the bottom. -Press on the surface, some clean blotting paper, to remove any grease -that may yet remain about it. Cut the cake of jelly into pieces, and put -it into a _very clean_ porcelain kettle, with a large pint of sherry, -(inferior wine will spoil it,) a pound of the best loaf sugar, broken -small; the yellow rind of six lemons, pared so thin as to be -transparent, and their juice squeezed over the sugar through a strainer; -the _whites_ of six or seven eggs, with their shells mashed small. If -the jelly is to be moulded, add a quarter ounce of the best Russia -isinglass. Boil together all these ingredients for near twenty minutes. -Then take it off the fire, and let it stand undisturbed for about five -minutes, to settle. Next, have ready a pointed jelly bag, made of clean -white flannel. Spread it open, suspended by strings to a table edge. Set -a large tureen or white-ware pan beneath it, and let the jelly drip as -long as it will; but on no account squeeze or press the bag, as that -will spoil all, rendering the whole jelly cloudy or streaked. If it is -not quite clear at the first straining, empty the contents of the bag -into a basin, wash the bag clean, hang it up again, pour the jelly back, -wash the tureen or pan, and let the jelly pass into it again. Repeat -this straining if necessary. When quite clear, shape the jelly in -white-ware moulds, which have been setting two hours in cold water. When -the jelly is wanted, wrap round the moulds for a moment, a cloth dipped -in warm water, and turn it out on glass dishes. The ingredients that are -left in the bag may be boiled and strained over again for children. If -the jelly is _not_ to be moulded, you may omit the isinglass. In that -case break it up, and serve it in a glass bowl. It is now the general -opinion that jellies have a more lively taste when broken up, from the -numerous acute angles they present to the tongue and palate. We think -this opinion correct; and also they look brighter and more glittering, -and _go farther_. - -_Apple Jelly_--Is far less expensive than that of calf's feet, and if -well made looks beautifully. It requires the very best and most juicy -apples, (for instance, two dozen large pippins or bell-flowers.) Wash -and wipe them well, (removing all blemishes,) pare, core, and slice or -quarter them. Put them into a _bain-marie_ or double kettle, with the -water outside, and let them boil till broken and dissolved, putting in -with them the grated yellow rind of four large lemons. Press and mash -the stewed apples through a very clean sieve, till you have extracted -all the juice. Measure it while warm, and allow to each quart a pound of -the finest powdered and sifted loaf sugar well mixed in, and the juice -of the lemons. Transfer it to a clean white flannel jelly bag, and let -it drip into a large white-ware pan. When quite clear, put it into -moulds, and set it on ice to congeal. When wanted, turn it out of the -moulds, (loosened by wrapping round their outsides cloths dipped a -minute in warm water) and serve it up in glass dishes. - -_Siberian Jelly._--A fine pink-colored jelly may be made in the above -manner, of the red Siberian crab-apple, but it requires an _additional_ -quarter of a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Instead of lemon you may -flavor it, (after all the juice has done dripping) by mixing with -extract of rose, or strong rose-water, allowing a wine-glassful to each -quart of jelly. Rose-water, or extract of rose, evaporates so speedily -when over the fire, that it should never be added till the very last. - -_Orange Jelly_--Is made in the proportion of a pint of strained orange -juice to a pound of loaf sugar, boiled with an ounce of isinglass, that -has first been melted over the fire by itself in a very little water. -Add the _yellow_ rind of the oranges pared from the white as thin as -possible. Give it one boil up, and strain it into the jelly-bag. When -clear, transfer it to moulds. Twelve large oranges will generally yield -a pint of juice. Lemon jelly is made in the same manner, but with more -sugar. - - -CURRANT JELLY.--The currants should be large, fine, and fully ripe. The -best and sweetest currants grow in the shade; and the largest, also. If -exposed to the full heat of our American sun, it turns them sour, dries -up the juice, and withers their growth. Gather them when fully ripe, -strip them from the stems into a cullender, and wash and drain them. -Transfer them to a large pan, and mash them well with a wooden beetle. -Then put the currants, with their juice, into a _bain-marie_ or double -kettle, and cook them with the water outside, stirring them hard to -bring out the juice. Simmer them for a quarter of an hour, and then -transfer them to a very clean sieve, and press them over a pan till no -more juice appears. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar. Mix the sugar with the juice, put all into a -porcelain kettle, and boil it till the scum ceases to rise. If the sugar -is of excellent quality, (the best double-refined should be used for all -nice sweetmeats) it will need but little skimming, and leave no sediment -when poured off. Boil it twenty minutes with the sugar. To try if it is -done, take up a spoonful and hold it out in the open air. If it congeals -very soon, it is cooked enough. Put it warm into glass tumblers. Cut out -some white tissue paper into double rounds, exactly fitting the glasses. -Press these papers lightly on the surface of the jelly; and, next day, -tie over the top thick papers dipped in brandy, and set them in the sun -all that day if the weather is bright and warm. - -All jellies of small fruit may be made in a similar manner; first -boiling the fruit by itself, and mashing it to get out all the juice. -Then boiling the berries again, _with the sugar_, for about twenty -minutes. The above receipt is equally good for grapes, blackberries, and -gooseberries. Black currant jelly (excellent for sore throats,) requires -but three quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice being very thick of -itself. Peaches, plums, damsons, and green gages, must be scalded, -peeled, and stoned, before boiling for jelly, and they require, at -least, a pound and a half of sugar to a pint of juice. It is better to -preserve them as marmalade than as jelly. Strawberries and raspberries -require no previous cooking; mash out the juice, strain it, allow a -pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and then boil them together -(skimming carefully) for about a quarter of an hour, or till they -congeal on being tried in the air. - - -WINE JELLY.--Wine jellies are seldom made except for company. The wine -must be of excellent quality; either port, madeira, or champagne. To a -quart of wine allow a pound of the best double-refined loaf sugar, and -an ounce of the best Russian isinglass. Melt the sugar (broken small) in -the wine. Melt the isinglass by itself in as much warm water as will -just cover it, and when quite dissolved, stir it into the mixed wine and -sugar. Boil all together, till on trial it becomes a firm jelly, which -will be very soon. If it does not congeal well, add some more dissolved -isinglass, and more sugar. Serve in moulds, and eat it on saucers. Jelly -is made in this manner of any nice sort of _liqueur_ or cordial. Also of -strong green tea, or very strong coffee; first made as usual, and then -boiled with loaf sugar and isinglass till they congeal. We do not -recommend them, except as some exhilaration to the fatigue of a party. - - -TRIFLE.--This is a very nice and very elegant party dish, and is served -in a large glass bowl. Put into the bottom of the bowl a pound of bitter -almond maccaroons. Pour on sufficient madeira or sherry to dissolve -them. Let them soak in it till soft and broken. Have ready a very rich -custard, flavored with vanilla bean (broken up and boiled by itself in a -little milk), and then strained into the quart of milk prepared for the -custard, which should be of ten eggs, (_using only the yolks_) and -sweetened with a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar. It is best -and easiest to _bake_ the custard. It will be very rich and soft with -yolk of egg only. When the custard is cold lay it on the dissolved -maccaroons. Then add a thick layer of very nice marmalade. Rub off the -yellow rind of a large lemon or two on some pieces of loaf sugar, and -add to it some powdered sugar mixed with the lemon juice. Whip to a -strong froth a large quart (or more) of rich cream, gradually mixing -with it the lemon and sugar. Lastly, pile up the frothed cream high on -the glass bowl, and keep it on ice till it is sent to table. Instead of -lemon you may flavor the whipt cream with rose-water; it will require, -if not very strong, a wine-glassful. To give the cream a fine pink -color, tie up some alkanet chips in a thin muslin bag; lay the bag to -infuse in a tea-cup of plain cream, and then add the pink infusion to -the quart of cream as you froth it. - - -BLANCMANGE.--The best and finest blancmange is made with a set of -calves' feet, (singed but not skinned) boiled slowly in a gallon of -water till the meat drops from the bone; then strain it, and set it away -till next day, in a broad white-ware pan. Skim it well while boiling. -Next day it should be a solid cake of clear jelly. Scrape off all the -fat and sediment from the outside, cut the jelly into small bits, and -melt it over again. Boil in a porcelain kettle a pint of cream, and -when it has come to a boil, stir in six ounces of loaf sugar, and -whatever you intend for flavoring; either the milk, in which a handful -of bitter almonds has been boiled, (first being blanched and broken up) -or a vanilla bean split and cut to pieces, and boiled in a little milk -and strained. Or, it may be mixed with three ounces of chocolate, -(Baker's prepared cocoa is the best) scraped fine. When the flavoring -has had a boil with the sugar, stir into it, gradually, the melted -jelly, and transfer it to white-ware moulds that have set in cold water, -and are still damp. Stir it well, and when the blancmange is thickening, -and becoming hard to stir, set the moulds on ice, or in pans of cold -water in the cellar, and cease stirring. When quite congealed, dip the -moulds in lukewarm water, and turn out the blancmange on glass dishes. -You may color almond or vanilla blancmange a fine pink, by putting into -the cream chips of alkanet root tied in a small thin muslin bag, to be -removed as soon as the cream is highly colored. Or, it may be made green -by the infusion of spinach juice, obtained by pounding in a marble -mortar, and then boiling and straining. - -Gelatine is now frequently used for blancmange and jelly, instead of -calves' feet or isinglass. It has no advantage but that of being more -speedily prepared than calves' feet, which must be boiled the day -before. Four cakes of gelatine are equal to four calves' feet. Before -using, they must be soaked for an hour or more in a pan of cold water, -then boiled with the other ingredients. Some persons think they -perceive an unpleasant taste in gelatine; perhaps they have heard of -what it is made. - -When calves' feet cannot be obtained, pigs' feet will do very well, if -nobody knows it. Four feet of calves are equal to eight of pigs. They -are very glutinous, and have no perceptible taste. - - -FINEST BLANCMANGE.--Break up a half pound of the best double-refined -loaf sugar. On some of the pieces rub off the yellow rind of two large -lemons, having rolled them under your hand to increase the juice. Then -powder all the sugar, and mix with it, gradually, the juice of the -lemons, a pint of rich cream, and a large half pint (not less) of sherry -or madeira. Stir the mixture very hard till all the articles are -thoroughly amalgamated. Then stir in, gradually, a _second_ pint of -cream. Put into a small sauce-pan an ounce of the best Russia isinglass, -with one jill (or two common-sized wineglasses) of cold water. Boil it -till the isinglass is completely dissolved, stirring it several times -down to the bottom. When the melted isinglass has become lukewarm, stir -it gradually into the mixture, and then give the whole a hard stirring. -Have ready some white-ware moulds that have just been dipped and rinsed -in cold water. Fill them with the mixture, set them on ice, and in two -or three hours the blancmange will be congealed. When it is perfectly -firm, dip the moulds for a minute in lukewarm water, and turn out the -blancmange on glass dishes. This, if accurately made, is the finest of -blancmange. For company, you must have double, or treble, or four times -the quantity of ingredients; each article in due proportion. - - -FARINA.--Farina is a very fine and delicate preparation, made from the -inner part of the grain of new wheat. It is exceedingly nutritious, and -excellent either for invalids or for persons in health. It is now much -in use, and is to be had, in packages of a pound or half a pound, of the -best grocers and druggists, and is highly recommended by physicians for -gruel and panade. It also makes an excellent pudding, either boiled or -baked, prepared in the same manner as any flour pudding. For boiling -farina, nothing is so good as a _bain-marie_ or double kettle. - -_For Farina Blancmange._--From a quart of rich milk take out a half -pint. Put the half pint into a small sauce-pan, and add to it a handful -of bitter almonds broken up; or a bunch of fresh peach leaves, or a -vanilla bean split, cut up, and tied in a thin muslin bag. When this -milk has boiled till very highly flavored, strain it into the pint and a -half, and set it over the fire in a porcelain kettle or a _bain-marie_. -When the milk has come to a boil, sprinkle in, gradually, a large half -pint or more (or four large heaping table-spoonfuls) of farina, stirring -it well--also sprinkling in and stirring, as if making thick mush. Let -it boil slowly a quarter of an hour after the farina is all in. When -done, remove it from the fire, and stir in two large table-spoonfuls of -sugar, and a wineglass of rose-water, or one of white wine. Transfer it -to a blancmange mould, (previously wet with cold water,) set it on ice, -and turn it out when ready for dinner. Eat it with sauce of wine, sugar, -and nutmeg. - - -FINE MARROW PUDDING.--Mince very small a quarter of a pound of nice beef -marrow, and grate or crumble half a pound of almond sponge cake. Cut in -half, a quarter of a pound of sultana or seedless raisins, chop two -peels of candied citron, mix them with the raisins, and dredge both -thickly with flour. Add a large heaped table-spoonful of loaf sugar, a -small nutmeg grated, and a wineglass of mixed wine and brandy. Mix all -these ingredients well, put them into a deep dish, lay a border of -puff-paste all round the rim, and fill the dish up to the top with a -nice custard made in the proportion of four eggs to a pint of -well-sweetened milk, flavored with either bitter almonds, rose-water, -peach-water, or vanilla. Bake this pudding half an hour. When cool, sift -sugar over it. - - -OMELETTE SOUFFLE.--Break six eggs, separating the yolks and whites. Give -them a slight stir, and strain the whites into one pan and the yolks -into another. Add to the yolks three large table-spoonfuls of powdered -loaf sugar, a heaped tea-spoonful of arrow-root flour, and twelve drops -of strong orange-flower water, and beat it till very thick and smooth. -Then beat the whites to a stiff froth, beginning slowly at first, but -gradually beating faster. Then add the beaten yolk very gently to the -whites. Have ready a silver or plated dish well-buttered. Use tin for -want of better, but it will not look well, as the omelette has to be -served up in the dish it was baked in. Place the dish with the mixture -in a hot oven, and watch it while baking. When it has well risen, and -seems very light, take it out of the oven for a moment; run a knife -round it, sift some sugar over it, set it again in the oven, and when -raised to its utmost take it out again, and serve it up as hot as -possible, with a spoon on the plate beside it. When once broken, it will -sink immediately. It is usual to send round the omelette souffle at the -very last of the pastry course; the cook not beginning to make it till -the dinner has commenced. If not light when baked, give it up, and do -not send it to table at all. It is safest for an inexperienced housewife -to engage a French cook to come to the house with his own ingredients -and utensils, and make and bake the omelette souffle while there. Still -though very fashionable, it is less delicious than many other desserts. - - -SUNDERLANDS.--Warm a quart of rich milk, and cut up in it half a pound -of the best fresh butter to soften in the milk, but not to oil. Beat -eight eggs till very light and thick, and then stir them gradually into -the pan of milk and butter, in turn with eight large table-spoonfuls of -sifted flour. Beat all very hard together, and then transfer the batter -to white tea-cups, slightly buttered, not filling them quite full. Set -them immediately into a brisk oven, and bake them about twenty minutes, -or till they are slightly browned, and have puffed up very light. As -soon as they are cool enough to handle without burning your fingers, -turn them out of the cups on a dish, cut a slit in the top of each, and, -taking a tea-spoon, fill them quite full of any sort of jelly or -marmalade; or if more convenient, with ripe strawberries or raspberries, -sweetened with powdered sugar, and mashed smoothly. When filled with -fruit, close the slit neatly with your fingers; and on the top of each -lay a large strawberry or raspberry, having first dredged the sunderland -with sugar. - -_Cream Cakes_--Are made in the above manner, but baked in patty-pans. -When baked take them out, cut a slit in the _side_ of each; and having -prepared an ample quantity of rich boiled custard, made with yolk of -egg, and highly flavored (_after it has boiled_,) with lemon, orange, -vanilla, rose-water or peach-water, fill the cakes full of the custard, -closing the opening well by pinching it together. Sift powdered sugar -over them, and send them to table on a large china dish. - - -CREAM TART.--Make a fine puff-paste of equal quantities of fresh butter -and sifted flour; mixing into the pan of flour a heaped table-spoonful -of powdered sugar, and wetting it with a beaten egg. Rub one quarter of -the butter into the pan of flour. Divide the remainder of butter into -six, and roll it into the flour at six turns till it is all in. Have, -ready grated, the yellow rind and the juice of a large lemon or orange -mixed with a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar; or a flavoring -of a split-up vanilla bean; or a dozen bitter almonds broken up, and -boiled in a very little milk. Mix the flavoring with a pint of rich -cream, and the well-beaten whites of three eggs. Take small deep pans, -line them all through with the paste rolled out very thin, and cut -square. Fill them with the cream, and turn the square pieces of paste a -little over it at the top, so as to form corners. Bake the tarts in a -brisk oven, and when cold, grate nutmeg over the surface. - -Are these the cream tarts of the Arabian Nights? - - -ORANGE COCOA-NUT.--Break up a fine ripe cocoa-nut, and after peeling off -the brown skin, lay the pieces in cold water for a while. Then wipe them -dry with a clean towel, and grate them into a deep dish. Mix in, plenty -of powdered white sugar. Take some fine large oranges, very ripe and -juicy. Peel off all the rind, and slice the oranges rather thick. Cover -the bottom of a large glass bowl with sliced orange, (the first layer -being double, where the bowl is small) and strew among the slices -sufficient sugar. Then put in a thick layer of the grated cocoa-nut, -next another layer of orange--again a layer of cocoa-nut, and so on, -alternately, till the bowl is filled, finishing with cocoa-nut heaped -high. This is a handsome and delicious article for a supper-table, and a -nice _impromptu_ addition to the dessert at a dinner; and soon prepared, -as it requires no cooking. When the fruit is in season, a dessert for a -small company may consist entirely of orange cocoa-nut, raspberry -charlotte, and cream strawberries. - -Never send oranges whole to table. To ladies they are unmanageable in -company. - -_Creamed Strawberries._--Take fine large ripe strawberries. Hull or stem -them, and set them on ice till just before they are wanted. Divide them -into saucerfulls. If you have glass saucers, they will make a better -show than china. Put some powdered white sugar in the bottom of each -saucer. Fill them with strawberries, and then strew on a liberal -allowance of sugar, for American strawberries (however fine in -appearance) are seldom sweet. Have ready sufficient whipped cream, that -has been frothed with rods or with a tin cream-churn. Pile high a -portion of the whipt cream on each saucer of strawberries. - -Strawberries are sometimes eaten with wine and sugar, when cream is not -convenient. With _milk_ they curdle, and are unwholesome--besides -tasting poorly. - -_Creamed Pine-apple._--Cut into four pieces two large ripe pine-apples. -Stand them up successively in a deep dish, and grate them from the rind. -When all is grated, transfer it to a large glass bowl, and make it very -sweet by mixing in powdered white loaf sugar. Whip to a stiff froth a -sufficiency of rich cream, adding to it some sugar, and heap it high -upon the grated pine-apple. - -_Peaches and Cream._--Take fine juicy freestone peaches. Pare them, and -cut them in slices. Put them, with their juice, into a large bowl, and -make them very sweet with powdered loaf sugar. Set them on ice, and let -them remain in the juice till wanted. Then send them to table with fresh -sugar sifted over the top. Set near them pitchers of plain cream, not -frothed. - -If you cannot obtain cream, it is better to be satisfied with sugar -alone, than to substitute milk, with peaches, or any other fruit. - - -LEMON TAFFY.--Put into a porcelain-lined preserving kettle three pounds -of the best loaf sugar, and pour on it a pint and a half of very clear -water. When it has entirely dissolved, set it over the fire, and add a -table spoonful of fine cider vinegar to assist in clearing it as it -boils. Boil and skim it well, and when no more scum rises add the juice -of four large lemons or oranges. Let it boil till it will boil no -longer, stirring it well. When done transfer it to square tin pans, that -have been made very clean and bright, and that are slightly greased with -sweet oil. Set the taffy away to cool, first marking it with a knife, -while soft. Mark it in straight lines the broad or crossway of the pans. -If marked lengthways, the pieces will be too long. When the taffy is -cold, cut it according to the lines, in regular slips, like cocoa-nut -candy. It is for a handsome supper party. Serve it up in glass dishes. - -Orange taffy is made in the same manner. These candies should be kept in -tin boxes. - -_Cocoa-nut Candy_--Is made in the manner of taffy, using finely grated -cocoa-nut, instead of lemon or orange. - - -CHARLOTTE RUSSE.--Split, cut up, and boil a large vanilla bean in half a -pint of rich milk, till it is highly flavored, and reduced to one-half. -Then strain out the vanilla through a strainer so fine as to avoid all -the seeds. Mix the strained milk with half a pint of rich cream. Beat -five eggs till very smooth and thick. Strain them, and add them -gradually to the cream when it is entirely cold, to make a rich custard. -Set this custard over the fire (stirring it all the time) till it -simmers; but take it off before it comes to a boil, or it will curdle. -Set it on ice. Have ready in another sauce-pan an ounce of the best -Russia isinglass, boiled in half a pint of water, till it is all -dissolved into a thick jelly. When both are cold, (but not hard) mix the -custard and the isinglass together, and add four table-spoonfuls of -powdered loaf sugar. Then take a large lump of loaf sugar, and rub off -on it the yellow rind of two large lemons. Scrape off the lemon-grate -with a tea-spoon, and add it to the mixture, with the lump of sugar -powdered and crushed fine. Mix together the strained juice of the -lemons, and two glasses of madeira; dissolve in them the lemon-flavored -sugar, and mix it with a pint of rich cream that has been whipped with a -whisk to a strong froth. Add the whipped cream gradually to the custard, -starring very hard at the time, and also after the whole is mixed. Then -set it on ice. - -Cover the bottom of a flat oval dish with a slice of almond sponge cake, -cut to fit. Prepare a sufficient number of oblong slices of the cake, -(all of the same size and shape) to go all round; with one extra slice, -in case they should not quite hold out. Dip every one in a plate of -beaten white of egg to make them adhere. Stand each of them up on one -end, round the large oval slice that lies at the bottom. Make them -follow each other evenly and neatly, (every one lapping a little way -over its predecessor) till you have a handsome wall of slices, cemented -all round by the white of egg. Fill it quite full with the custard -mixture. Cover the top with another oval slice of cake, cemented with a -little white of egg to the upper edge of the wall. Make a nice icing in -the usual way, of powdered sugar beaten into frothed white of egg, and -flavored with lemon, orange, or rose. Spread this icing thickly and -smoothly over the cake that covers the top of the charlotte, and -ornament it with a handsome pattern of sugar flowers. There is no -charlotte russe superior to this. - -_Another Charlotte Russe._--Have a very nice circular lady cake. It -should be iced all over, and ornamented with sugar flowers. Take off the -top nicely, and without breaking or defacing, and hollow out the inside, -leaving the sides and bottom standing. The cake taken from the inside -may be cut in regular pieces and used at tea, or for other purposes. -Make a very fine boiled custard, according to the preceding receipt. -Fill with it the empty cake, as if filling a mould. Then put on the lid, -set the whole on ice, and when wanted serve it up on a glass or china -dish. - -A charlotte that requires no cooking may be very easily made by -hollowing a nice circular almond sponge cake, and filling it with layers -of small preserves, and piling on the top whipped cream finely flavored. - -For the walls of a charlotte russe you may use the oblong sponge cakes, -called Naples biscuits, or those denominated lady fingers, dipping them -first in beaten white of egg, standing them on end, and arranging them -so as to lap over each other in forming the wall. Arrange some of them -handsomely to cover the top of the custard. - - -ICE CREAM.--Pewter freezers for ice cream are better than those of block -tin; as in them the freezing goes on more gradually and thoroughly, and -it does not melt so soon, besides being smoother when done. The ice tub -should be large enough to allow ample space all round (six inches, at -least,) the freezer as it stands in the centre, and should have a plug -at the bottom (beneath the freezer) for letting out the water that drips -from the ice; that a large coarse woolen cloth should be folded, and -laid under it and around it. The ice should be broken up into small -bits, and mixed with coarse salt, in the proportion of a pound of salt -to five pounds of ice. Fill the tub within three inches of the top; -pounding and pressing down hard the mixed ice and salt. Have ready all -the ingredients. To every quart of _real_ rich cream mix in a pint of -milk, (not more) and half a pound of fine loaf sugar. The following are -the most usual flavorings, all the fruit being made very sweet. Ripe -strawberries or raspberries, mashed through a sieve till all the juice -is extracted; ripe juicy freestone peaches, pared, and cut in half, the -kernels being taken from the stones, are pounded, and mashed with the -fruit through a cullender; all the juice that can be mashed out of a -sliced pine-apple, the grated yellow rind and the juice of lemons or -oranges, allowing two to each quart of cream, and mixing the juice with -plenty of sugar before it is put to the cream. A handful of shelled -bitter almonds blanched, broken, and boiled by themselves in half a -pint of milk till all the almond flavor is extracted, and then strain -the bitter almond milk into the cream. For vanilla flavor, split and cut -up a vanilla bean, boil it by itself in a half pint of milk, and when -highly flavored, strain the vanilla milk into the cream. For chocolate -ice cream, scrape down a quarter of a pound of Baker's prepared cocoa, -and melt it in just water enough to cover it; then sweeten and mix it -gradually into a quart of rich milk, (boiling at the time) and then boil -and stir it till strong and smooth. Ice cream is spoiled by the addition -of eggs. Besides giving it a yellowish color, eggs convert it into mere -frozen custard, particularly if instead of using real cream, it is made -of milk thickened with arrow-root or flour. For company at least, ice -cream should be made in the best and most liberal manner, or else do not -attempt it. Mean ice cream is a very mean thing. - -When all the ingredients are prepared and mixed, put the whole into the -freezer, and set it in the ice tub; and having put on the lid tightly, -take the freezer by the handle and turn it about very fast for five or -six minutes. Then remove the lid carefully, and scrape down the cream -from the sides with a spaddle or long-handled spoon. Repeat this -frequently while it is freezing, taking care to keep the sides clear, -stirring it well to the bottom, and keeping the tub well filled with -salt and ice outside the freezer. - -After the cream has been well frozen in the freezer, transfer it to -moulds, pressing it in hard, so as to fill every part of the mould. -Then set the mould in a fresh tub of ice and salt, (using as before the -proportion of a pound of salt to five pounds of ice) and let it remain -undisturbed in the mould for an hour, not turning it out till it is time -to serve it up to the company. Then wrap a cloth, dipped in warm water, -round the outside of the moulds, open them, and turn out the frozen -cream on glass or china dishes, and serve it up immediately. - -Unless ice cream is very highly flavored at the beginning, its taste -will be much weakened in the process of freezing. - -The most usual form of ice cream moulds are pyramids, dolphins, doves, -and baskets of fruit. We have seen ice cream in the shape of a curly -lap-dog, and very well represented. - -If you eat what is called strawberry ice cream looking of an exquisite -rose-pink color, there is no strawberry about it, either in tint or -taste. It is produced by alkanet or cochineal. Real strawberries do not -color so beautifully; neither do raspberries, or any other sort of red -fruit. But genuine fruit syrups may be employed for this purpose, having -at least the true taste. To make strawberry or raspberry syrup, prepare -first what is called simple syrup, by melting a pound of the best -double-refined loaf sugar in half a pint of cold water; and when melted, -boiling them together, and skimming it perfectly clean. Then stir in as -much fruit juice (mashed and strained,) as will give it a fine tinge, -and let it have one more boiling up. - -_Vanilla Syrup._--Take six fine fresh vanilla beans. Split, and cut them -in pieces. Scrape the seeds loose in the pods with your finger nail, and -bruise and mash the shells. All this will increase the vanilla flavor. -Put all you can get of the vanilla into a small quart of what is called -by the druggist "absolute alcohol." Cork the bottle closely, and let the -vanilla infuse in it a week. Then strain it through a very fine strainer -that will not let out a single seed. Have ready half a dozen pint -bottles of simple syrup. Put into every bottle of the simple syrup a -portion of the strained infusion of vanilla. Cork it tightly and use it -for vanilla flavoring in ice creams, custards, blancmange, &c. - -_Orange or Lemon Syrups_--Are made by paring off the yellow rind very -thin (after the fruit has been rolled under your hand on a table to -increase the juice,) then boiling the rind till the water is highly -flavored. Strain this water over the best loaf sugar, allowing two -pounds of sugar to a pint of juice. The sugar being melted, mix it with -the juice. - - -WATER ICES OR SHERBET.--Water ices are made of the juice of fruits, very -well sweetened, mixed with a little water, and frozen in the manner of -ice cream, to which they are by many persons preferred. They are all -prepared nearly in the same manner, allowing a pint of juice to a pint -of water, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Mix it well, and then -freeze it in the manner of ice cream, and serve it up in glass bowls. -For lemon and orange sherbet, first roll the fruit on a table under your -hand; then take off a very thin paring of the yellow rind, and boil it -slowly in a very little water, till all the flavor is extracted. Next, -strain the flavored water into the cold water you intend to mix with the -juice, and make it very sweet with loaf sugar. Squeeze the juice into it -through a tin strainer to avoid the seeds. Stir the whole very hard, and -transfer it to a freezer. Orange water-ice is considered the best, if -well made. For pine-apple water-ice, pare, core, and slice fine _ripe_ -apples very thin. Put them into a dish with thick layers of powdered -loaf sugar; cover the dish, and let them lie several hours in the sugar. -Then press out all the juice you can, from the pine-apple; mix it with a -little water, and freeze it. To two large pine-apples allow a half pound -of sugar, which has been melted in a quart of boiling water. This looks -very well frozen in a mould shaped like a pine-apple. _Orange_ sherbet -may be frozen in a pine-apple mould. It can be made so rich with orange -juice as to perfume the whole table. - -_Roman Punch_--Is made of strong lemonade or orangeade, adding to every -quart a pint of brandy or rum. Then freeze it, and serve in saucers or a -large glass bowl. Put it into a porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it -till the scum ceases to rise. When cold, bottle it, seal the corks and -keep it in a cool place. - -Syrup of strawberries, raspberries, currants and blackberries, is made -in a similar manner. - - -FLOATING ISLAND.--For one common-sized floating island have a round -thick jelly cake, lady cake, or almond sponge cake, that will weigh a -pound and a half, or two pounds. Slice it downwards, almost to the -bottom, but do not take the slices apart. Stand up the cake in the -centre of a glass bowl or a deep dish. Have ready a pint and a half of -rich cream, make it very sweet with sugar, and color it a fine green -with a tea-cupful of the juice of pounded spinach, boiled five minutes -by itself; strained, and made very sweet. Or for coloring pink you may -use currant jelly, or the juice of preserved strawberries. Whip to a -stiff froth another pint and a half of sweetened cream, and flavor it -with a large glass of mixed wine and brandy. Pour round the cake, as it -stands in the dish or bowl, the colored unfrothed cream, and pile the -whipped white cream all over the cake, highest on the top. - - - - -FINE CAKES. - - -PLUM CAKE.--In making very fine plum cake first prepare the fruit and -spice, and sift the flour (which must be the very best superfine,) into -a large flat dish, and dry it before the fire. Use none but the very -best fresh butter; if of inferior quality, the butter will taste through -every thing, and spoil the cake. In fact, all the ingredients should be -excellent, and liberally allowed. Take the best bloom or muscatel -raisins, seeded and cut in half. Pick and wash the currants or plums -through two waters, and dry them well. Powder the spice, and let it -infuse over night in the wine and brandy. Cut the citron into slips, mix -it with the raisins and currants, and dredge all the fruit very thickly, -on both sides, with flour. This will prevent its sinking or clodding in -the cake, while baking. Eggs should always be beaten till the frothing -is over, and till they become thick and smooth, as thick as a good -boiled custard, and quite smooth on the surface. If you can obtain -hickory-rods as egg-beaters, there is nothing so good; but if you cannot -get _them_, use the common egg-beaters, of thin fine wire. For stirring -butter and sugar you should have a spaddle, which resembles a short -mush-stick flattened at one end. Stir the butter and sugar in a deep -earthen pan, and continue till it is light, thick, and creamy. Beat eggs -always in a broad shallow earthen pan, and with a short quick stroke, -keeping your right elbow close to your side, and moving only your wrist. -In this way you may beat for an hour without fatigue. But to stir butter -and sugar is the hardest part of cake making. Have this done by a man -servant. His strength will accomplish it in a short time--also, let him -give the final stirring to the cake. If the ingredients are prepared as -far as practicable on the preceding day, the cake may be in the oven by -ten or eleven o'clock in the forenoon. - -For a large plum cake allow one pound, (or a quart) of sifted flour; one -pound of fresh butter cut up in a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in a -deep pan; twelve eggs; two pounds of bloom raisins; two pounds of Zante -currants; half a pound of citron, either cut into slips or chopped -small; a table-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, mixed; two grated -nutmegs; a large wine-glass of madeira (or more), a wine-glass of French -brandy, mixed together, and the spice steeped in it. - -First stir the butter and sugar to a light cream, and add to them the -spice and liquor. Then beat the eggs in a shallow pan till very thick -and smooth, breaking them one at a time into a saucer to ascertain if -there is a bad one among them. One stale egg will spoil the whole cake. -When the eggs are very light, stir them gradually into the large pan of -butter and sugar in turn with the flour, that being the mixing pan. -Lastly, add the fruit and citron, a little at a time of each, and give -the whole a hard stirring. If the fruit is well floured it will not -sink, but it will be seen evenly dispersed all over the cake when baked. -Take a large straight-sided block tin pan, grease it inside with the -same butter used for the cake, and put the mixture carefully into it. -Set it immediately into a well-heated oven, and keep up a steady heat -while it is baking. When nearly done, the cake will shrink a little from -the sides of the pan; and on probing it to the bottom with a sprig from -a corn broom, or a splinter-skewer, the probe will come out clean. -Otherwise, keep the cake in the oven a little longer. If it cracks on -the top, it is a proof of its being very light. When quite done, take it -out. It will become hard if left to grow cold with the oven. Set it to -cool on an inverted sieve. - - -ICING.--Allow to the white of each egg a quarter of a pound of the best -loaf sugar, finely powdered; but if you find the mixture too thin, you -must add still more sugar. Put the white of egg into a shallow pan, and -beat it with small rods or a large silver fork, till it becomes a stiff -froth, and stands alone without falling. Then beat in the powdered -sugar, a tea-spoonful at a time. As you proceed, flavor it with lemon -juice. This will render the icing whiter and smoother, also improving -the taste. You may ice the cake as soon as it becomes lukewarm, without -waiting till it is quite cold. Dredge it lightly with flour to absorb -the grease from the outside; then wipe off the flour. With a broad knife -put some icing on the middle of the cake, and then spread it down, -thickly and evenly, all over the top and sides, smoothing it with -another knife dipped in cold water. When this is quite dry, spread on a -second coat of icing rather thinner than the first, and flavored with -rose. Set it a few minutes in the oven to harden the icing, leaving the -oven-door open; or place it beneath the stove. When the icing is quite -dry, you may ornament it with sugar borders and flowers; having ready, -for that purpose, some additional icing. By means of a syringe, (made -for the purpose, and to be obtained at the best furnishing stores) you -can decorate the surface of the cake very handsomely; but it requires -taste, skill, and practice. You may first cover the cake with pink, -brown, green, or other colored icing, and then take white icing to -decorate it, forming the pattern by moving your hand skilfully and -steadily over it, and pressing it out of the syringe as you go. An -easier way is to ornament the cake (when the top-icing is nearly dry, -but not quite,) with large strawberries or raspberries, or purple grapes -placed very near each other, and arranged in circles or patterns. Be -careful not to mash the berries. - -_Warm Icing._--This is made in the usual proportion of the whites of -four eggs, beaten to stiff froth, and a pound of finely powdered loaf -sugar afterwards added to it, gradually. Then boil the egg and sugar in -a porcelain kettle, and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. Take it -off the fire, and stir into it sufficient orange juice, lemon juice, or -rose-water, to flavor it highly. Flour your cake--wipe off the flour, -put on the icing with a broad knife, and then smooth it with another -knife dipped in cold water. For this icing the cake should be warm from -the oven, and dried slowly and gradually afterwards. Warm icing is much -liked. It is very light; rises thick and high in cooling, and has a fine -gloss. Try it. The mixture called by the French a _meringue_, and used -for macaroons, kisses, and other nice articles, is made in the same -manner as icing for cakes, allowing a quarter of a pound of powdered -loaf sugar to every beaten white of egg. - - -POUND CAKE.--One of Mrs. Goodfellow's maxims was, "up-weight of flour, -and down-weight of every thing else"--and she was right, as the -excellence of her cakes sufficiently proved, during the thirty years -that she taught her art in Philadelphia, with unexampled success. -Therefore, allow for a pound cake a rather small pound of sifted flour; -a large pound of the best fresh butter, a large pound of powdered loaf -sugar, ten eggs, or eleven if they are small; a large glass of mixed -wine and brandy; a glass of rose-water; a grated nutmeg, and a heaped -tea-spoonful of mixed spice, powdered mace, and cinnamon. Put the sugar -into a _deep_ earthen pan, and cut up the butter among it. In cold -weather place it near the fire a few minutes, till the butter softens. -Next, stir it very hard with a spaddle till the mixture becomes very -light. Next, stir in, gradually, the spice, liquor, &c. Then beat the -eggs in a shallow pan with rods or a whisk, till light, thick, and -smooth. Add them gradually to the beaten batter and sugar, in turn with -the flour; and give the whole a hard stirring at the last. Have the oven -ready with a moderate heat. Transfer the mixture to a thick -straight-sided tin pan well greased with the best fresh butter, and -smooth the butter on the surface. Set it immediately into the oven, and -bake it with a steady heat two hours and a half, or more. Probe it to -the bottom with a twig from a corn broom. When it shrinks a little from -the pan it is done. When taken out, set it to cool on an inverted sieve. -When you ice it, flavor the icing with lemon or rose. - -It should be eaten fresh, as it soon becomes very dry. - -Pound cake is not so much in use as formerly, particularly for weddings -and large parties; lady cake and plum cake being now substituted. A -pound cake may be much improved by the addition of a pound of citron, -sliced, chopped well, dredged with flour to prevent its sinking, and -stirred gradually into the batter, in turn with the sifted flour and -beaten egg. - - -QUEEN CAKE--Is made in the same manner as pound cake, only with a less -proportion of flour, (fourteen ounces, or two ounces less than a pound) -as it must be baked in little tins; and small cakes require less flour -than large ones. Also, (besides a somewhat larger allowance of spice, -liquor, &c.) add the juice and grated yellow rind of a lemon or two, and -half a pound of sultana or seedless raisins, cut in half and dredged -with flour. Butter your small cake tins, and fill to the edge with the -batter. They will not run over the edge if well made, and baked with a -proper fire, but they will rise high and fine in the centre. Ice them -when beginning to cool, flavoring the icing with lemon or rose. Queen -cakes made _exactly_ as above are superlative. - - -ORANGE CAKES.--Make a mixture precisely as for queen cake, only omit the -wine, brandy, and rose-water, and substitute the grated yellow rind and -the juice of four large ripe oranges, stirred into the batter in turn -with the egg and flour. Flavor the icing with orange juice. - - -LEMON CAKES--Are also made as above, substituting for the oranges the -grated rind and juice of three lemons. To give a full taste, less lemon -is required than orange. - - -SPONGE CAKE.--Many persons suppose that sponge cake must be very easy to -make, because there is no butter in it. On the contrary, the want of -butter renders it difficult to get light. A really good sponge cake is a -very different thing from those numerous tough leathery compositions -that go by that name, and being flavored with nothing, are not worthy of -eating _as cake_, and are neither palatable nor wholesome as diet, -unless too fresh to have grown dry and hard. The best sponge cake we -know of is made as follows, and even that should be eaten the day it is -baked. Sift half a pound of flour, (arrow-root is still better,) in a -shallow pan; beat twelve eggs till very thick, light, and smooth. You -need not separate the yolks and whites, if you know the true way of -adding the flour. Beat a pound of powdered loaf sugar, gradually, (a -little at a time) into the beaten eggs, and add the juice and grated -yellow rinds of two large lemons or oranges. Lastly stir in the flour or -arrow root. It is all important that this should be done slowly and -lightly, and without stirring down to the bottom of the pan. Hold the -egg-beater perpendicularly or quite upright in one hand, and move it -round on the surface of the beaten egg, while with the other hand you -lightly and gradually sprinkle in the flour till all is in. If stirred -in hard and fast it will render the cake porous and tough, and dry and -hard when cold. Have ready either a large turban mould, or some small -oblong or square tins. Butter them nicely, transfer to them the cake -mixture, grate powdered sugar profusely over the surface to give it a -gloss like a very thin crust, and set it immediately into a brisk oven. -The small oblong cakes are called Naples biscuits, and require no icing. -A large turban cake may be iced plain, without ornament. - -A _very light_ sponge cake, when sliced, will cut down rough and coarse -grained, and it is desirable to have it so. - -_Lady Fingers_--Are mixed in the same manner, and of the same -ingredients as the foregoing receipt for the best sponge cake. When the -mixture is finished, form the cakes by shaping the batter with a -tea-spoon, upon sheets of soft white paper slightly damped, forming them -like double ovals joined in the centre. Sift powdered sugar over them, -and bake them in a quick oven till slightly browned. When cool, take -them off the papers. They are sometimes iced. - - -ALMOND SPONGE CAKE.--The addition of almonds makes this cake very -superior to the usual sponge cake. Sift half a pound of fine flour or -arrow root. Blanch in scalding water two ounces of shelled sweet -almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones, renewing the hot water when -expedient. When the skins are all off, wash the almonds in cold water, -(mixing the sweet and bitter) and wipe them dry. Pound them to a fine -smooth paste, (one at a time,) in a very clean marble mortar, adding, as -you proceed, plenty of rose-water to prevent their oiling. Then set them -in a cool place. Beat twelve eggs till very smooth and thick, and then -beat into them, gradually, a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in turn with -the pounded almonds. Lastly, add the flour, stirring it round slowly and -lightly on the surface of the mixture, as in common sponge cake. Have -ready a _deep_ square pan. Butter it nicely. Put the mixture carefully -into it, set it into the oven, and bake it till thoroughly done and -risen very high. When cool, cover it with plain white icing, flavored -with rose-water. With sweet almonds, always use a small portion of -bitter ones. Without them, _sweet_ almonds have little or no taste, -though they add to the richness of the cake. - - -SPANISH BUNS.--In a shallow pan put a half pint of rich unskimmed milk, -and cut up in it a half pound of the best fresh butter. Set it on the -stove, or near the fire, to warm and soften, but do not let it melt or -oil. When soft, stir it all through the milk with a broad knife, and -then set it away to cool. Sift into a broad pan half a pound of the -finest flour, and an additional quarter of a pound put on a plate by -itself. Beat four eggs in a shallow pan till very thick and smooth, and -mix them at once into the butter and sugar, adding the half pound of -flour. Stir in a powdered nutmeg, and two wine-glasses of strong yeast, -fresh from the brewer's, first removing the thin liquid or beer from the -top. Stir the mixture very hard with a knife, and then add, -_gradually_, half a pound of powdered white sugar. The buns will become -heavy if the sugar is thrown in all at once. It is important that it -should be added a little at a time. Then sprinkle in, by degrees, the -extra quarter of a pound of sifted flour, and lastly add a wine-glass of -strong rose-water. When all has been well stirred, butter (with fine -fresh butter,) an oblong iron or block-tin pan, and carefully put the -bun mixture into it. Cover it with a clean cloth, and set it near the -fire to rise. It may require five hours; therefore buns wanted for tea -should be made in the forenoon. When the batter has risen very high, and -is covered with bubbles, put the pan immediately into a moderate but -steady oven, and bake it. When cool, cut the buns into squares, and ice -each one separately, if for company; the icing being flavored with lemon -or orange juice. Otherwise, you may simply sift sugar over them. These -buns were first introduced by Mrs. Goodfellow; and in her school were -always excellently made, nothing being spared that was good, and the use -of soda and other alkalis being unknown in the establishment--hartshorn -in cakes would have horrified her. - - -LADY CAKE.--This cake must be flavored highly with bitter almonds; -without them, sweet almonds have little or no taste, and are useless in -lady cake. Blanch, in scalding water, three small ounces of shelled -bitter almonds, and then lay them in a bowl of very cold water. -Afterwards wipe them dry, and pound them (one at a time,) to a smooth -paste in a clean marble mortar; adding, as you proceed, a wine-glass of -rose-water to improve the flavor, and prevent their oiling, and becoming -heavy and dark. When done, set them away in a cool place, on a saucer. -Almonds are always lighter and better when blanched and pounded the day -before. Cut up three quarters of a pound of the best fresh butter in a -pound of powdered loaf sugar. Mix it in a deep earthen pan, and stir and -beat it with a spaddle till it becomes very light and creamy. Then, -gradually, stir in the pounded almonds. Take the _whites only_ of -seventeen or eighteen fresh eggs, and beat them in a shallow pan to a -stiff froth, till they stand alone. Then stir the beaten white of egg, -gradually, into the pan of creamed butter and sugar, in turn with three -small quarters of a pound (or a pint and a half,) of sifted flour of the -very best quality. Stir the whole very hard at the last, and transfer it -to a straight-sided tin pan, well greased with excellent fresh butter. -Set the pan immediately into an oven, and bake it with a moderate but -steady heat. When it has been baking rather more than two hours, probe -it by sticking down to the bottom a twig from a corn broom, or a very -narrow knife. If it comes out clean the cake is done; if clammy or -daubed, keep it longer in the oven. A cake when quite done generally -shrinks a little. When you take it out, set it to cool on an inverted -sieve. Ice a lady cake entirely with white, and ornament it with white -flowers. It is now much in use at weddings, and if well made, and quite -fresh, there is no cake better liked. - - -CINNAMON CAKE.--Cut up half a pound of fine fresh butter, and warm it -till soft in half a pint of rich milk. Sift a pound of fine flour into a -broad pan; make a hole in the centre, and pour into it the milk and -butter, having stirred them well together. Then, gradually, add a large -quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a heaped tea-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon. Beat three eggs very smooth and thick, and stir them -in, also a wine-glass and a half of strong fresh brewer's yeast, or two -glasses of fresh baker's yeast. Then mix, (having sprinkled some over -the top,) all the flour into the hole in the centre, so as to make a -soft dough. When all is well mixed cover it, and set it to rise in a -round straight-sided tin pan. Place it near the fire, and when quite -light and cracked all over the surface, flour your pasteboard well, -place the loaf upon it, and having prepared in a pint bowl a stiff -mixture of ground cinnamon, fresh butter, and brown sugar, beaten -together so as to stand alone, make numerous deep cuts or incisions all -over the surface on the sides and top of the cake; fill them with the -cinnamon mixture, and pinch each together so as to keep the seasoning -from coming out. Glaze it all over with beaten white of egg a little -sweetened. Then return the loaf to the pan, and bake it in a moderate -oven till thoroughly done. When cool, cut it down in slices like a pound -cake. - -This dough may be divided into small round cakes, the size of a muffin, -and baked on tin or iron sheets, sifting sugar over them when cool. It -must have a high flavor of cinnamon. - - -WEST INDIA COCOA-NUT CAKE.--Cut up and peel some pieces of very ripe -cocoa-nut. Lay them for a while in cold water. Then take them out and -wipe them dry, and grate very fine as much as will weigh half a pound. -Beat eight eggs till very light, thick, and smooth. Have ready half a -pound of powdered loaf sugar, and stir it into the pan of beaten egg, -alternately with the grated cocoa-nut; adding a handful of sifted flour, -a powdered nutmeg, and a large glass of madeira or sherry, stirring the -whole very hard. Butter an oblong tin pan. Put in the mixture, set it -immediately into a quick oven, and bake it well. Set it to cool on an -inverted sieve; cut it into squares, and ice each square, flavoring the -icing with rose. - -You may bake it in a large loaf; adding double portions of all the -ingredients, and ornamenting the icing handsomely. - -_Sweet Potato Cake_--Is made like the above cocoa-nut cake. The sweet -potatos must be pared and grated _raw_, till you have as much as weighs -half a pound. Then proceed as above, and with the same ingredients and -proportions. You may boil and mash the sweet potatos; but be sure, -afterwards, to pass them through a coarse sieve, or they may chance to -clod and become heavy. If well made, and well flavored, this cake is -very nice. - - -GOLDEN CAKE.--The best time for making this cake is when ripe oranges -are plenty. For one cake select four large deep-colored oranges, and -roll each one under your hand upon a table to soften them, and increase -the juice. Weigh a pound of the best loaf sugar. On some of the largest -pieces rub off the yellow or outer rind of the oranges, omitting the -white entirely. The white or inner rind of oranges or lemons should -never be used for any thing. Cut the oranges, and squeeze their juice -through a strainer into a large saucer or a small deep plate. Powder all -the sugar, including that which has the orange zest upon it, and put it -into a deep earthen pan, with a pound of the best fresh butter cut up -among it. With a wooden spaddle stir the butter and sugar together, till -very light and creamy. In a shallow pan beat twelve eggs, omitting the -_whites_ of three. Sift into a dish a small quart of the best and finest -flour, and stir it gradually into the pan of butter and sugar and -orange, in turn with the beaten egg, a little at a time of each. Stir -the whole very hard; and when done, immediately transfer the batter to -square tin pans, greased with the same fresh butter that was used for -the cake. Many a fine cake has been spoiled, at last, by the poor -economy of greasing the pans with salt butter. Fill the pans to the top. -If the cake has been well made, and well beaten, there is no danger of -the batter running over the edges. Put it, immediately, into a quick -oven and bake it well, not allowing the heat to be lessened till the -cake is quite done. When cool, cut it into squares. If you ice it, -flavor the icing with orange juice. - -Do not attempt to make this cake with yolk of egg only, by way of -improving the yellow color. Without any whites, it will assuredly be -tough and heavy. Cakes may be made light with white of egg only, but -never with yellow of egg only. - -If you use soda, saleratus, hartshorn, or any of the alkalis, they will -entirely destroy the orange flavor, and communicate a bad taste of their -own. - - -SILVER CAKE.--Scald in a bowl of boiling water two ounces of shelled -bitter almonds. As you peel off the skins throw each almond into a bowl -of ice-cold water. When all are blanched, take them out, and wipe them -dry on a clean napkin. Put them, one at a time, into a very clean marble -mortar, and pound each one separately to a smooth paste, adding, as you -pound them, a few drops of strong rose-water, till you have used up a -large wine-glass full. As you remove the pounded almonds from the -water, lay them lightly and loosely on a plate. When all are done, put -them into a very cool place. In a deep earthen pan cut up a pound of -fresh butter into a pound of powdered sugar, and with a wooden spaddle -stir the butter and sugar together till perfectly light. Into another -pan sift three quarters of a pound of fine flour, and in a broad shallow -pan beat with small rods the whites only of eighteen eggs till they are -stiff enough to stand alone. Then, gradually, and alternately, stir into -the pan of beaten butter and sugar the flour, the beaten white of eggs, -and the pounded almonds. Give the whole a hard stirring at the last. -Transfer it to square tin pans greased with the same butter, and bake it -well. When cool, cut it into square cakes, and send it to table on china -plates, piled alternately with pieces of golden cake, handsomely -arranged. If you ice silver cake, flavor the icing with strong -rose-water. - -These cakes, (gold or silver) if made as above, will be found delicious. -The yolk of egg left from the silver cake may be used for soft custards. -But yolk of egg alone, will not raise a cake; though white of egg will. - - -APEES.--Cut up a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of sifted flour, -and rubbing the butter very fine, and mixing in a pound of powdered -sugar, with a heaped tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace, and -cinnamon, and four tea-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Moisten the whole -with a large glass of white wine; and barely sufficient cold water to -make a stiff dough. Mix it well with a broad knife, and roll it out into -a sheet less than half an inch thick; then with the edge of a tumbler, -or a tin cake-cutter, divide it into round small cakes. Bake them in -oblong pans, (tin or iron) slightly buttered; and do not place them so -closely as to touch. Bake them in a quick oven, till they are of a pale -brown. These cakes are soon prepared, requiring neither eggs nor yeast. - - -MARMALADE MERINGUES.--Make a mixture as for apees, omitting only the -carraway seeds. Roll out the sheet of dough quite thin; cut it into -round flat cakes with the edge of a tumbler, and bake them a few -minutes, till lightly colored. Take them out of the oven and spread them -thickly with very nice marmalade, or with ripe strawberries or -raspberries, sweetened, and mashed without cooking. Have ready a stiff -meringue of beaten white of egg and sugar. Pile it high over the -marmalade on each cake. Heap it on with a spoon, so as quite to conceal -the marmalade, and do not smooth it on the top. It should stand up -_uneven_ as the spoon left it. Set it again in the oven for a minute or -two, to harden it. - - -JUMBLES.--Mix together, all at once, in a deep pan, a pound of butter -cut up in a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of sifted flour, and six -eggs, previously beaten very light in a pan by themselves. Add a -table-spoonful of powdered spice, (mixed nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon) and -a glass of mixed wine and brandy; or else a glass of rose water; or the -juice and grated yellow rind of a large lemon. Stir the whole very hard -till all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, and become a soft dough. -Flour your hands and your pasteboard, and lay the dough upon it. Take -off equal portions from the lump, and with your hands form them into -round rolls, and make them into rings by joining together the two ends -of each. Place the jumbles (not so near as to touch,) in tin pans -slightly buttered, and bake them in a very brisk oven little more than -five or six minutes, or enough to color them a light brown. If the oven -is too cool, the jumbles will spread and run into each other. When cold, -sift sugar over them. _Jumbles_ may be made with yolks of eggs only, if -the whites are wanted for something else. - -_Cocoa-nut Jumbles_--Are made as above, only with finely grated -cocoa-nut instead of flour, and with white of egg instead of yolk. - -_Cocoa-nut Puffs._--Grate any quantity of cocoa-nut. Mix it with -powdered sugar and a little beaten white of egg, and lay it in small -heaps of equal size. On the top of each place a ripe strawberry, -raspberry, or any small preserved fruit, flattening a slight hollow, to -hold it without its rolling off. - - -SCOTCH CAKE.--Take a pound of fresh butter, a pound of powdered white -sugar, and two pounds of sifted flour. Mix the sugar with the flour, and -rub the butter into it, crumbled fine. Add a heaped table-spoonful of -mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. Put _no water_, but moisten it entirely with -butter. A small glass of brandy is an improvement. Roll it out into a -large thick sheet, and cut it into round cakes about the size of -saucers. Bake them on flat tins, slightly buttered. This cake is very -crumbly but very good, and of Scottish origin. It keeps well, and is -often sent from thence, packed in boxes. - - -JELLY CAKE.--For baking jelly cake you must have large flat tin pans -rather larger than a dinner plate. But a very clean soap-stone griddle -may be substituted, though more troublesome. Make a rich batter as for -pound cake, and bake it in single cakes, (in the manner of buckwheat, or -thicker) taking care to grease the tin or soap-stone with _excellent_ -fresh butter. Have ready, enough of fruit jelly or marmalade, to spread -a thick layer all over each cake when it cools. Pile one on another very -evenly, till you have four, five, or half a dozen; and ice the surface -of the whole. Cut it down in triangular pieces like a pie. Jelly cake -is no longer made of sponge cake, which is going out of use for all -purposes, as being too often dry, tough, and insipid, and frequently not -so good as plain bread. - - -ALMOND MACAROONS.--The day before they are wanted, prepare three -quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound -of shelled bitter almonds; by scalding, blanching, and pounding them to -a smooth paste in a marble mortar, (one or two at a time) adding, as you -proceed, rose-water to prevent their oiling, and becoming dark and -heavy. Having beaten to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, and -prepared a pound of powdered loaf sugar, beat the sugar into the egg a -spoonful at a time. Then mix in gradually the pounded almonds, and add a -grated nutmeg. Stir the whole very hard, and form the mixture into small -round balls. Then flatten slightly the surface of each. Butter slightly -some shallow tin pans. Place the macaroons not so close as to be in -danger of touching; and glaze them lightly with a little beaten white of -egg. Put them into a brisk oven, and bake them a light brown. - -Ground-nut macaroons are made in the same manner. - -_Chocolate Macaroons._--Scrape down, very fine, half a pound of Baker's -prepared cocoa. Beat to a stiff froth the white of four eggs, and beat -into the white of egg a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in turn with the -chocolate, adding a little sifted flour if the mixture appears too thin. -Grease the bottom of some oblong tin pans, very slightly, with sweet -oil. Having formed the mixture into small thick cakes, lay them (not -close,) in the pan, and bake them a few minutes. Sift sugar over them -while warm. - - -KISSES.--Having beaten to a stiff froth, till it stands alone, the -whites of eight eggs, mix with it, gradually, three quarters of a pound -of finely powdered loaf sugar, beating it in very hard, a spoonful at a -time, and as you proceed flavoring it with extract of vanilla, rose, or -lemon juice. If the meringue is not thoroughly beaten and very stiff, -the kisses will lose their shape and run in baking. Try one first, and -if that runs, beat a while longer before you bake the whole. Pile -portions of the meringue on sheets of letter paper, placing each heap -far apart. Smooth and shape them with a broad knife dipped in cold -water. Make them about the size and form of half eggs, with the flat -part downwards. Arrange them on a smooth hickory board, and set it in a -quick oven, (leaving the door open) and watch them well. A few minutes -will color them a pale brown, and that is all they require. Then take -them out, and set them to cool. When cool, slip a knife carefully under -each, and remove them from the paper. Then with your knife hollow the -meringue from the base of each kiss and scrape upwards toward the top, -being careful not to break through the outside or crust. Fill up this -vacancy with any sort of stiff jelly. Then clap two halves together, and -unite them at the base, by moistening the edges with a little of the -meringue that was left. Handle them very carefully throughout. - -Large kisses, of twice or thrice the usual size, are introduced at -parties, filled with ice cream, or flavored calf's foot jelly. - -It is very customary now to finish a fine charlotte russe with a thick -layer of this jelly at the top. - - -LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.--Cut up in a deep pan half a pound of the best -fresh butter, with a half pound of excellent brown sugar; and stir it to -cream with a spaddle. Add a pint of West India molasses, mixed with half -a pint of warm milk; four table-spoonfuls of ginger; a heaped -table-spoonful of mixed powdered cinnamon and powdered mace and nutmeg; -and a glass of brandy. Sift in a pound and a half of fine flour. Beat -six eggs till very light and thick, and mix them, alternately, into the -pan of butter, sugar, molasses, &c. At the last, mix in the yellow rind -(grated fine) of two large oranges and the juice. Stir the whole very -hard. Melt in one cup a very small level tea-spoonful of soda, and in -another a small level salt-spoon of tartaric acid. Dissolve them both in -lukewarm water, and see that both are quite melted. First stir the soda -into the mixture, and then put in the tartaric acid. On no account -exceed the quantity of the two alkalis, as if too much is used, they -will destroy entirely the flavoring, and communicate a very disagreeable -taste instead. Few cakes are the better for any of the alkaline powders, -and many sorts are entirely spoiled by them. Even in gingerbread they -should be used very sparingly, rather less than more of the prescribed -quantity. Having buttered, (with the same butter) a large round or -oblong pan, put in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven till -thoroughly done, keeping up a steady heat, but watching that it does not -burn. There is no gingerbread superior to this, if well made. Instead of -lemon or orange, cut in half a pound of seedless raisins, dredge them -well with flour, and stir them, gradually, into the mixture. - -This is also called Franklin gingerbread. - - -GINGER NUTS.--Cut a pound of the best fresh butter into two pounds or -two quarts of sifted flour, and half a pound of fine brown sugar. Add -four heaped table-spoonfuls of ground ginger; a heaped table-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon, and the same quantity of mixed nutmeg and mace. Mix -all the ingredients thoroughly together; adding, gradually, a large pint -of West India molasses, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon -or orange. Stir it very hard with a spaddle. Flour your hands, break -off pieces of the dough, and knead each piece a little; then flatten -them on the top. Make them the size of a quarter dollar. Or, (flouring -your pasteboard) roll out the dough, and cut out the ginger-nuts with -the edge of a small wine-glass. Bake them on buttered tins, having first -glazed them with a thin mixture of molasses and water. The same dough -may be baked in long straight sticks, divided by lines deeply marked -with a knife. - -There are many other gingerbreads; but any of the soft sorts may be made -with little variation from the foregoing directions for Lafayette -gingerbread; and of the hard sort of ginger-nut preparation, the above -is the basis of the rest. If the receipts are liberally and exactly -followed, it will be found that to those two none are superior. - - -PIGEON PIE.--For this pie take six fine fat tame pigeons, carefully -cleaned and picked. Lay them in cold water for an hour, changing the -water twice during that time. This is to remove what is called "the -taste of the nest." Have ready the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, -seasoned with powdered nutmeg. Place a bit of fresh butter rolled in -flour, in the inside of each pigeon, with its liver cut up, and with a -yolk of egg seasoned with powdered mace. Lay a nice tender beef steak, -or thin veal cutlet, in the bottom of a large deep dish, that has been -lined with puff-paste. Butter the steak, and dredge it with flour. -There must be meat enough to cover well the bottom of the pie dish. Lay -the pigeons upon it, with the breast downward, (their heads and feet cut -off, and their livers cut up, and put inside with the stuffing.) Fill up -the dish with water. Roll out and put on the lid of the pie, which you -may ornament with paste leaves or flowers, according to your taste. For -company, pigeon pies are expected to look handsome. It is no longer -fashionable to have the feet of the pigeons sticking out of the slit in -the top of the paste. - -Moorfowl, pheasants, partridges, or quails, may be made into pies in the -above manner. It is usual, for partridge pies, to peel two fine sweet -oranges; and having divided them into quarters, carefully remove the -strings and seeds, and put the oranges into the birds without any other -stuffing. Instead of beef steak or veal cutlet, lay a thin slice of cold -ham in the bottom of the pie-dish. - -This receipt, and the following, were accidentally omitted in their -proper places. - - -CHICKEN PIE.--Skin a pair of fine fowls, and cut them up. Save out the -necks, backs, feet, livers, and gizzards, and the ends of the pinions; -and seasoning them with a little pepper and salt add some trimmings or -spare bits of fresh beef or veal, and stew them in a small sauce-pan -with a little water, to make the gravy. Let them stew till all to rags, -and then strain off the liquid; and while hot, stir into it a beaten -egg and a bit of fresh butter, dredged with flour. In the mean time make -a nice puff-paste, and roll it out rather thick; divide it in two -circular sheets. Line with one sheet the bottom and sides of a deep pie -dish, and put in the best pieces of chicken. Lay among them four -hard-boiled eggs, sliced or quartered. Season well with powdered mace or -nutmeg. The gravy being strained, pour that into the pie, and finish at -the top with a layer of butter divided into small pieces, and dredge -with flour. This is what the old English cookery books mean when they -say--"Close the pie with a _lear_." - -A chicken pie will be improved by the addition of a dozen or more large -fresh oysters, stewed. If you add oysters, take off the lid or upper -crust as soon as the pie is baked, and put in the oysters _then_; if put -in at the beginning, they will bake too long. Replace the lid nicely, -and send the pie to table hot. - -The lid should have in the top a cross slit with a nice paste flower in -it. To make a paste flower roll out a straight narrow slip of paste, -about four or five inches wide. Roll it up with your fingers as if you -were rolling up a ribbon. Then with a sharp knife cut four clefts in the -upper half, and when baked, it will spread apart as like the leaves of a -flower. - - - - -SWEETMEATS. - - -No sweetmeats can either look well or taste well unless the fruit and -the sugar are of the best quality. As in all other branches of cookery, -it is false economy to provide bad or low-priced ingredients. It has of -late years been difficult to obtain _very_ good sugar at any price, so -much is adulterated with flour or ground starch. In the common powdered -sugar the flour is so palpable that we are surprised at its having any -sale at all; and the large quantity required to produce any perceptible -sweetness renders it totally unfit for sweetmeats, or indeed for any -thing else. The best brown sugar is better than this, having clarified -it with white of egg. To do this, allow to every pound of sugar the -beaten white of an egg, and a half pint of clear cold water. Having -poured the water on the sugar, let it stand to melt before it goes on -the fire. Then add the white of egg and put in on to boil. When it -boils, carefully take off the scum as it rises, and add when it is -boiling hard another jill or quarter pint of water for each pound of -sugar. Remove it from the fire when the scum ceases to rise, and let it -stand for a quarter of an hour to settle. Strain, and bottle it for use. -The best brown sugar _thus prepared_ will make a good syrup; and good -marmalade, when white sugar of the best quality is not to be obtained. -But for the nicest sweetmeats use always, if you can, the best -double-refined loaf. - -In warm weather there is nothing better for a preserving fire than a -portable charcoal furnace placed out in the open air; as in a room with -the doors or windows shut the vapor of charcoal is deadly, and never -fails to produce suffocation. Of whatever the fire is made, it should be -clear and steady without smoke or blaze. Never use copper or bell-metal -for either preserving or pickling. For all such purposes employ only -iron, lined with what is called porcelain or enamel, but is in reality a -thick strong white earthen, first made at Delft, in Holland. This lining -will crack if the kettle is placed over a blaze, which it should never -be. All sweetmeats should be boiled with the lid off. If covered, the -steam having no means of escaping, returns upon them, and causes them to -look dark and unsightly. When done, put the sweetmeats warm into jars or -glasses, and leave them open a few hours that the watery particles may -evaporate, but have them all pasted and closely covered before night. Do -nothing to render your preserves hard, or firm, as it is called. It is -better to have them soft and tender. The old custom of steeping them for -days in salt and water, and then boiling them in something else to -remove the salt, is now considered foolish, and is seldom practised. - -Put up jellies and small sweetmeats in common tumblers, laying on the -surface of each a double cover of white tissue paper cut exactly to fit, -and then put on another cover of thick white paper pleated and notched -where it descends below the edge, using always gum tragacanth paste, -which you should keep always in the house, as it requires no boiling; -and if in making it, a bit of corrosive sublimate (not larger than a -cherry-stone) is dissolved with the ounce of gum tragacanth and the half -pint of warm water, in a yellow or white-ware mug, and _stirred only -with a stick_, the paste will never spoil, and if kept covered, will be -found superior to all others. No metal must touch this cement, as it -will then turn black and spoil. - -Keep your sweetmeats always in a dry place. But if after a while you see -a coat of mould on the surface, you need not throw them away, till you -have tried to recover them by carefully removing every particle of -mould, filling up the jars with fresh sugar, and setting them, one by -one, in a bottle of water, and in this way boiling them over again. But -if they have an unpleasant smell, and you see insects about them, of -course they must be thrown away. To purify jars, clean and scrape them, -and wash them thoroughly with ley and water, or with a solution of -soda--afterwards exposing them to the sun and air for a week or more. - -_Jellies._--We have already given directions for various fruit jellies -in the chapter on Fine Desserts. They are all made nearly in the same -manner, using the juice of the fruit, and sufficient sugar to make it -congeal and to keep it. Jellies should always be bright and transparent, -and therefore require the best and ripest of fruit and the finest of -loaf sugar. - - -MARMALADE OR JAMS.--Marmalade or jams are the easiest sweetmeats to -make, and are useful for all sweetmeat purposes. They are all made -nearly in the same manner; and to be very good, and to keep well, at -least a pound of fine sugar should be allowed to every pound of -fruit--the fruit being quite ripe, freshly gathered, and of the best -kind. - -_For Peach Marmalade_--Take fine, juicy free-stone peaches. Pare them; -cut them in half; remove the stones, and let them be saved and the -kernels extracted to use as bitter almonds. Cut up the peaches, and -allow for each pound a pound of sugar. Lay the peaches (with all the -sugar among them,) in a large pan or tureen, and let them rest for three -or four hours. Boil the peaches and sugar together in a porcelain kettle -(without a cover) for half an hour, skimming and stirring well. When it -becomes a thick smooth mass it is finished. Put it up in glass jars, and -leave it uncovered till cool; but not longer. The flavor will be much -improved by boiling with the peaches and sugar one or two handfuls of -the kernels, blanched and pounded; or else a bunch of fresh peach -leaves, to be removed afterward. - -_Quince Marmalade_ is made in the same manner--first carefully removing -all the blemishes. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of quinces. They -must boil longer than peaches. All marmalades must be cooked till the -form of the fruit is quite indistinguishable, and till it mashes into a -thick smooth mass. Quinces should be allowed to remain on the trees till -after the first frost, which greatly improves them. Persimmons and wild -grapes are not eatable till they are touched by the frost. - -_Tomato Marmalade._--Make this when lemons are ripe and plenty. To every -two pounds of tomatos allow two pounds of sugar, and the grated yellow -rind and the juice of one lemon. The worst way of using lemons for any -purpose is to merely slice them. Depend on the slices for flavoring, and -they are wasted; the taste being scarcely perceptible. They should -always be first rolled under your hand, which increases the yield of -juice. Then grate off from the outside the _yellow_ rind only (the white -part of the rind is worse than useless,) and having cut the lemon, -squeeze the juice through a tin strainer to exclude the seeds, which -otherwise would be troublesome to pick out. The yellow rind and the -juice are all you need want of a lemon for any purpose of flavoring. -Scald the tomatos to make them peel easily, and mix the sugar thoroughly -with them. Boil them slowly for an hour in a porcelain kettle, skimming -carefully, and stirring well after each skimming. Then add the lemon -grate and the juice, and boil the marmalade another half hour, or till -it is a thick smooth mass. - -_Pumpkin Marmalade._--Take a fine ripe high-colored pumpkin. Cut it up. -Empty it very clean of the seeds and strings; take off a thick paring. -Slice the pieces small and thin, and weigh them. To each pound of -pumpkin allow a pound of powdered sugar, and the grated peel and the -juice of one large lemon. Pumpkin sweetmeats require a high lemon -flavoring. Boil the pumpkin alone, till quite soft. Then mash it in a -cullender till the water is pressed out, and the pumpkin left dry. -Afterwards put it into a porcelain kettle, mix with it the sugar and -lemon, and boil it again till it becomes a thick jam. Cantaloupe -marmalade is made in the same way with lemon and sugar--also marmalade -of ripe figs. - -_Plum Marmalade._--Choose plums that are fully ripe. Allow to each pound -a pound and a half of sugar. Scald them till the skins peel off easily, -and extract all the stones. Lay them in the sugar for two or three hours -or more, and then boil them till they become a thick smooth mass. -Green-gages the same. - -_Raspberry Jam._--To every quart of fine ripe raspberries allow a pound -of best loaf sugar, powdered. Put them together into a broad white-ware -pan, and let them rest for two or three hours. Then boil them in an -uncovered porcelain kettle, taking off the scum carefully. When no more -scum rises, mash them, and boil them to a smooth thick marmalade. When -cold, put it up in half pint tumblers, and cover them with rounds of -double tissue paper, cut exactly to fit, and then with thick white -paper dipped in brandy. - -_Strawberry Jam._--The strawberries must be quite ripe, and very fine. -Allow to each quart a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Put them into a -large white-ware pan; a layer of sugar and a layer of strawberries -alternately, finishing with strawberries on the top. Let them rest in -the sugar and juice three or four hours. Then boil and skim them till -they become very thick and smooth. When cold, put them up in tumblers, -with double tissue paper over the top. Blackberry jam is made in the -same manner. - -_Gooseberry Jam._--Top and tail the gooseberries, which must be -thoroughly ripe, and with thin skins. They require to every pound of -fruit a pound and a half of sugar of the best sort. Mash them with a -wooden beetle, and put them with all the sugar into an uncovered -porcelain kettle, and boil and skim them. When half done add more sugar, -and continue boiling till they are a very thick marmalade. When cold, -cover the tumblers with brandy paper. - -_Pine-apple Marmalade._--Take the best and ripest pine-apples; remove -the leaves, and split each pine-apple into four pieces, and cut out the -core from the centre. Stand the pieces upright in a deep dish, and, with -a large coarse grater grate down all the _flesh_ of the fruit, as it is -called. To every pint of grated pine-apple allow a pound of powdered -loaf sugar, and put them together in a large tureen. Let them rest two -hours. Then transfer the whole to a porcelain kettle. Leave it -uncovered; and boil, skim, and stir, till it becomes a very thick -marmalade. When cool, put it up in glass jars. It is a very nice -sweetmeat, particularly for shells or tarts. - -_Grape Marmalade._--Take a sufficiency of fine grapes, thoroughly ripe. -Having picked them from the stems, mash them with a wooden beetle, and -then press them through a sieve. To every pint of the pulp allow a pound -of powdered sugar, well mixed in; let it stand an hour or two. Then boil -it, uncovered, in a porcelain kettle, skimming and stirring well, till -it is very thick and smooth. When cool, put it up in small marmalade -pots of white-ware with lids, and paste a band of thick white paper -round each, at the small crack where the cover fits on. A good marmalade -for the backwoods may be made of wild grapes and maple sugar. - -_Cherry Marmalade._--If you cannot procure morellas, (the best of all -cherries for sweetmeats) use the large Virginia or carnation cherries. -Black cherries are unfit for cooking. Stem and stone your cherries, -saving all the juice you can. Allow a pound of powdered loaf sugar to -every pint of cherries. Boil the fruit and the sugar together, -uncovered, for an hour, skimming and stirring. When cool, put it in -white-ware marmalade pots and paste the lids. - -_Orange Marmalade._--Quarter some large ripe oranges, and remove the -rind, the seeds, and the strings or filaments, taking care to save all -the juice. Put the pulp, with the juice, into a porcelain kettle, and -mix with it an equal quantity of strained honey, adding sufficient -powdered loaf sugar to render it very thick and sweet. The honey alone -will not make it sweet enough. Boil it uncovered, and skim it till very -thick, smooth, and clear. Taste it, and if necessary add more sugar, and -boil it longer. When cold, put it up in tumblers or white-ware marmalade -pots, and cover it securely. This marmalade is exquisite, and very -superior to any other. - -_Orange Milk._--Take four dozen large ripe juicy oranges, and roll them -under your hand. Cut them in two; remove the seeds, and squeeze the -juice into a large clean stone jar. Have ready four pounds of the best -double-refined loaf sugar, dissolved in a gallon of French brandy. Pour -it into the jar that contains the orange juice; stir the mixture well, -and add the yellow rind of the oranges, pared so thin from the white as -to be transparent, and divide it into bits. Cover the jar, and let it -stand four days, stirring it frequently. Then take a gallon of new -unskimmed milk, (the morning's milk of that day,) boil it alone, and -when it comes to a hard boil pour it into the mixture of orange, sugar, -and brandy. Cover it closely, and let it stand till quite cold. Then -strain it into another vessel through a linen jelly bag. Bottle it -immediately, and seal the corks. It improves by keeping. To use it, pour -it out in half tumblers, and fill up with ice water, or serve it round -undiluted in small cordial glasses, after ice-cream. It is much -admired, and in orange countries may be made in large quantities. Lemon -milk is made in the same manner, having a larger proportion of sugar. - -_Fruit in Syrups._--Make a syrup in the proportion of half a pint of -water to every pound of sugar, and a pint of the juice of any sort of -fine ripe fruit. Boil and skim it till very clear, but not till it -congeals or jellies. Then bottle it, and cork the bottles. As the fresh -fruit comes again into season, select the finest, largest, and ripest. -For instance, half fill a white-ware preserve jar with fine fresh -strawberries, and fill up from a bottle of strawberry syrup; or ripe -raspberries with raspberry syrup; currants, with currant syrup, &c. -Cover them closely till wanted for immediate use. - - -PRESERVED CITRON MELONS.--Take some fine citron melons; pare, core, and -cut them into slices. Then weigh them; and, to every six pounds of -melon, allow six pounds of the best double refined loaf sugar, and the -juice and yellow rind (grated very fine,) of four large fresh lemons, -and _a quarter_ of a pound of root ginger. - -Put the slices of lemon into a preserving kettle, and boil them half an -hour or more, till they look _quite_ clear, and are so tender that a -broom twig will pierce through them. Then drain them; lay them in a -broad pan of cold water, cover them, and let them stand all night. In -the morning tie the root ginger in a thin muslin cloth, and boil it in -three pints of clear spring or pump water till the water is highly -flavored. Then take out the bag of ginger. Having broken up the sugar -put it into a clean preserving kettle, and pour the ginger water over -it. When the sugar is all melted set it over the fire, put in the grated -yellow peel of the lemons, and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. -Then put in the sliced citrons, and the juice of the lemons; and boil -them in the syrup till all the slices are quite transparent, and so soft -that a straw will go through them; but do not allow them to break. When -quite done, put the slices (while still warm,) into wide-mouthed glass -or white-ware jars, and gently pour on the syrup. Lay inside of each -jar, upon the top of the syrup, a round of white paper dipped in brandy. -Put on the lids of the jars, and tie leather over them. - -This will be found a delicious sweetmeat; equal to any imported from the -West Indies, and far less expensive. - - -PINE-APPLES PRESERVED.--Take six fine large pine-apples, as ripe as you -can get them. Make them very clean, but do not, at first, pare off the -rind or cut off the leaves. The rind and leaves being left on while -boiling will _keep in_ the flavor of the fruit. Put the pine-apples -whole into a very large and very clean iron pot. Fill it up with cold -water, and boil the pine-apples till they are so tender that you can -pierce them through the rind to the core, with a splinter skewer or a -twig from a corn broom. Then take them out of the pot, and drain them. -When they are so cool as to be handled without inconvenience, remove the -leaves, and pare off the rind. Cut then into round slices about half an -inch thick, extracting the core from the centre as to leave a small -round hole in every slice. Weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow -a pound of double refined loaf sugar, broken up and powdered. Cover the -bottom of a large dish or dishes with a thick layer of the sugar. On -this place a layer of pine-apple slices; then a layer of sugar; then a -layer of fruit, and so on till the slices are all thickly covered, -finishing with a layer of sugar at the top. Let them stand twenty-four -hours. Then drain the slices from the syrup, and lay them in wide jars. -Put all the syrup into a clear porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it -till the scum ceases to rise. Then pour it hot upon the pine-apple. -While warm, cover the jars closely with white paper cut to fit, and -dipped in brandy; and then tie on a piece of bladder. There is no better -way of preserving pine-apples, or that retains the flavor so well. - -Quinces may be preserved in the same manner. - - -PRESERVED LEMONS OR ORANGES.--The fruit must be perfectly ripe, of the -best quality, with a smooth rind and fine color. Cut out from the stem -end of each, a piece not quite the size of a quarter dollar, and with a -small knife scoop out all the inside, keeping the rind as whole as -possible. Put the pulp and juice into a large bowl, and clear it from -the strings and seeds. Lay the skins in a tureen of cold ice water, and -change it twice during the day, (fresh water and fresh ice); and at -bedtime put ice only. Next morning boil the skins slowly in a porcelain -kettle with plenty of water, keeping them well covered. Continue to boil -till they are tender all through, and can easily be pierced with a -splinter skewer. Then drain them, and lay them in cold water -immediately. Take care to boil with them the small round pieces that -come out of the top. Make a thick jelly or marmalade of the pulp and -juice of these, and some additional fruit, allowing to a pint of juice a -pound of loaf sugar. When the jelly has been boiled till clear and firm -when held in the air, fill with it the skins so as to swell them out -into a good shape. Replace the small circular pieces that have been cut -off the top of the fruit, and tie them on securely with packthread, so -as to keep in the jelly. Next make a thin syrup, allowing to a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar half a pint of fresh juice, and the beaten white of -an egg. Boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Then having put the -oranges into large glass jars rather more than half full, pour the syrup -on them, filling up to the top. - -_To Green Small Lemons or Limes._--Boil them first in a little hard -water, placing them in a porcelain kettle with a thick bed of fresh vine -leaves under them and a thick cover of vine leaves over them. Boil them -till green and tender in two or three waters, putting entirely fresh -vine leaves whenever you change the water, and persisting till they are -well greened. Then make holes in the stem end, and extract the pulp, -strings, and seeds, and proceed as directed in the last receipt. The -skins, as soon as empty, being laid in cold water, and then filled and -shaped out with lemon jelly, and the jars filled up warm with lemon -syrup. Or by putting a larger portion of sugar, and boiling the syrup -longer, you may candy it all over the surface of the fruit. - -Green limes are preserved in the above manner, filling the skins with -lemon jelly. To candy the syrup use a double portion of sugar, and boil -it till it bubbles and sparkles in the kettle. - - -PEACHES PRESERVED.--Take the finest ripe free-stone peaches. Pare them, -cut them in half, and remove the stones. To every pound of peaches allow -a pound of double refined loaf sugar, and half the white of an egg -(slightly beaten) with half a pint of very clear soft water. Put the -sugar into a porcelain preserving kettle, mix it with the water and -white of egg, and when it has entirely dissolved, set it over the fire, -and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise, which will be very -soon, if the sugar is as good as it should be. There is no economy in -using inferior sugar for sweetmeats, as much of it will be lost in -skimming and sediment. In the mean time, boil in a little sauce-pan a -bunch of fresh green peach leaves that have been cleared from all dust; -or a handful of broken-up peach kernels. When the flavor is well -extracted, strain this water and mix it with the syrup. Then put in the -halved peaches, and boil them (uncovered) till quite clear and soft, but -not till they break. While warm, put them up with the syrup in glass or -white-ware jars. - -Apricots are preserved in the same way. - -_Preserved Green Gages._--Get the largest and ripest green gages, or egg -plums. Scald them in boiling water to make them peel easily; the skins -of all sorts of plums becoming very hard and tough when preserved. -Remove the stems; they are no ornament, and render them troublesome to -eat. Make a syrup in the usual way, allowing to each pound of plums a -pound of the finest loaf sugar, half a pint of water, and half a white -of egg. When well skimmed and boiled put in the plums, and boil them -gently till quite clear and soft, but not till broken. All plums may be -done in this manner. If not as ripe as possible, they will require to -each pound of fruit a pound and a half of the best sugar. - - -BRANDY PEACHES.--Take large juicy _free-stone_ peaches, not so ripe as -to burst or mash on being handled. Rub off the down from every one with -a clean thick flannel. Prick every peach down to the stone with a large -silver fork, and score them all along the seam or cleft. To _each_ pound -of peaches allow a pound of double-refined loaf sugar, broken-up small, -and a half pint of water mixed with half a white of egg, slightly -beaten. Put the sugar into a porcelain kettle, and pour the water upon -it. When it is quite melted give it a stirring, set it over the fire, -and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Next put in the peaches, -and let them cook (uncovered) in the syrup till they look clear, or for -about half an hour, or till a straw will penetrate them. Then take the -kettle off the fire. Having allotted a pint of the very best white -brandy to each pound of peaches, mix it with the syrup, after taking out -the fruit with a wooden spoon, and draining it over the kettle. Put the -peaches into a large tureen. Let the syrup remain in the kettle a little -longer. Mix the brandy with it, and boil them together ten minutes, or -more. Transfer the peaches to large glass jars, (two thirds full,) and -pour the brandy and syrup over them, filling quite up to the top. When -cool, cover them closely, and tie some bladder over the lids. - -_Green Gages_--Are brandied in the same manner. Also, large egg-plums. -Pears also, having first peeled them. To pear sweetmeats always add -lemon rind grated, and lemon juice. - - -PRESERVED TOMATOS.--This is an excellent and popular sweetmeat, when -flavored well with lemon, which is indispensable to making it palatable. -Also, it should be well penetrated with sugar, therefore it is best not -to attempt preserving tomatos whole. The best time for doing them is in -the height of the lemon season. The most convenient for preserving are -those with smooth even surfaces. If fluted or cleft they are difficult -to peel when scalded, as the skins do not strip off so easily. Having -weighed the tomatos, (which must be full-grown and quite ripe) allow to -every two pounds, two pounds of the best _brown_ sugar, a large spoonful -of ground ginger, and the juice and grated yellow rind of one large ripe -lemon, rolled awhile under your hand. Having scalded and peeled all the -tomatos, and mixed with the sugar a little beaten white of egg, put them -into a porcelain-lined preserving kettle, (uncovered,) and add, -gradually, the sugar. Boil the tomatos and sugar _slowly_ together, till -the scum ceases to appear. Then add, gradually, the lemons, (peel and -juice,) and boil slowly for an hour or more. The tomatos must all have -bursted, otherwise they will not keep, from the sugar not getting -sufficiently into them. When done, take them off the fire, and transfer -to glass jars the tomatos with their syrup. - -For yellow preserves take yellow tomatos, scald and peel them, and prick -each with a silver fork. Lay them in a porcelain preserving kettle with -plenty of fresh vine leaves under and over them. Boil them with the vine -leaves till they become a finer yellow. Then wash out the kettle and -boil the tomatos, as above, with the _white_ sugar, and add the lemon. - -_Green Tomatos Preserved._--Take green tomatos when they are full grown, -but have not yet begun to turn in the least red. Scald and peel them, -and lay them in a porcelain kettle with plenty of fresh vine leaves at -the bottom. Cover them thickly with another layer of vine leaves at the -top. Boil them very slowly with the vine leaves till they have all -turned yellow. Then take them out, and spread them on large dishes. Wash -the kettle, put in fresh vine leaves under and over the tomatos. They -should become a fine green with the second boiling in vine leaves; -otherwise repeat the greening. Then take them out, wash the kettle -again, and return the tomatos to it with _a pound and a half of white -sugar_ to each pound of tomatos. Boil and skim, till all is clear and -nice. Then add the grated yellow rind and the juice of one large lemon -to every pound of tomatos, and boil slowly an hour longer. All the -tomatos should burst, that the sugar may thoroughly enter the inside. -Before you cover the jars, stir into each an additional quarter or half -pound of powdered sugar. Green tomatos require a high flavoring of -lemon, as they have no peculiar taste of their own. - - -PRESERVED QUINCES.--Take the largest and ripest yellow quinces; after -they have remained on the trees till the first frost. Wipe them clean, -and boil them whole till they are tender all through, and can be easily -penetrated with a splinter skewer. Save and strain the water in which -they were boiled. When cool, pare and core the quinces, and carefully -remove the blemishes. To every pound of fruit allow a pound of the best -double-refined loaf sugar. Make a syrup of the water in which the -quinces were boiled, allowing half a pint of this water to every pound -of sugar. When melted, set it in a porcelain kettle over a moderate -fire, and boil and skim it till no more scum appears. Then put in the -fruit, either whole or quartered, or cut into circular slices about half -an inch thick; and boil it uncovered. When the quinces are quite clear -and soft, (but not the least broken) take them out, and spread them on -large flat dishes. Afterwards transfer them to large glass jars, rather -more than half filled; pour the syrup warm over them; and when cool -cover the jars, and tie pieces of bladder over the covers. You may boil, -by themselves, the cores and parings, in as much water as will cover -them well, till they are entirely dissolved. Then strain them through a -linen bag, and while hot stir in as much powdered loaf sugar as will -form a thick jelly. If the quinces have been preserved whole, fill up -with this jelly the holes left by the cores; or if sliced, spread the -jelly over the slices. Quinces soon become very hard and tough, unless -they have been well boiled by themselves, before putting them into the -sugar. Merely scalding or coddling them is not sufficient. If you have -not jelly for filling up the holes, substitute marmalade. To keep -quinces well, requires plenty of rich syrup. - - -PRESERVED CRAB-APPLES.--Take the finest Siberian crab-apples, which -being always red, and having a pleasant acid, are the only sort now used -for preserving. Rub each crab-apple with a dry clean flannel, and then -prick every one in several places with a large needle to prevent their -bursting. To every pound of fruit allow a pound and a half of -double-refined loaf sugar, and a pint of water. First make a syrup of -the sugar and water, boiling it in a porcelain kettle, and skimming it -till perfectly clear. Put in the crab-apples, adding for each pound the -juice and grated yellow rind of a large lemon. The lemon is -indispensable to this sweetmeat. Simmer them slowly in this syrup till -tender all through, so that they can be pierced with a twig of -broom-corn; but do not allow them to break. When done, put them up warm -in glass jars more than half full, and the syrup over them. You may -heighten the fine red color with a little prepared cochineal--that is, -cochineal powder kept in a bottle after being boiled with alum and cream -of tartar. - -_Bellflower Apples or Large Pippins_--May be preserved whole in the -above manner. They look handsomely on a supper table, covered all over -with a thick meringue or icing flavored with lemon or rose, and spread -smoothly over every apple with a real rose-bud stuck in the top of each. -You may color the icing a beautiful pink, by mixing with it a little -prepared cochineal. - - -PRESERVED CHERRIES.--No cherries are worth preserving except morellas, -or the large Virginia red, or carnation cherries. Stem and stone them -carefully, saving the juice; and strew them thickly with powdered white -sugar. To a quart of cherries allow a pound of the best loaf sugar. Make -a syrup, allowing half a pint of water to a pound of sugar. Boil and -skim it, and when the scum has ceased to rise put in the cherries and -their juice, and give them a slow boil up. Put them up warm in glass or -white-ware jars, and tie bladder over the lids. - - -FINE PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES.--Have ready two sorts of strawberries, one -half being of the largest and finest scarlet sort, (not too ripe,) the -other smaller and less expensive, but quite ripe and perfectly fresh and -nice. Put the smaller ones into a porcelain kettle, having allowed three -quarters of a pound of double-refined loaf sugar to every quart of -fruit. Boil the sugar and small strawberries together; skimming well, -and stirring down to the bottom after every skimming, and mashing it to -a jam. When done, set it to cool in a large pan; wash the kettle clean, -or take another one, and make in it a clear syrup, allowing to each -pound of the best loaf sugar a _small_ half pint of water. When melted -set it over the fire, and boil and skim till the scum ceases to rise. -Put the large strawberries in this, and give them one boil up. If boiled -too long they will break. As soon as they have come to a boil take them -(one at a time,) with a silver tea-spoon, and lay them separately on -large flat dishes. Then mix the syrup with the jam thoroughly together, -and boil it a quarter of an hour. Put the large strawberries, one at a -time, into glass jars, (more than half full,) and fill up to the top -with the hot jam. When cool lay a round of brandy paper on the surface, -and secure the lids by tying pieces of bladder over them. - - -STRAWBERRIES IN WINE.--Put a small quart of fine large scarlet -strawberries into a glass jar, having sprinkled among them a quarter of -a pound of the best loaf sugar. Fill up the jar with madeira or sherry. -They are served at parties in small glass saucers, heaped on the top -with whipped cream, or with white ice cream. What is sold by many -confectioners as strawberry ice cream, has in reality no strawberries -about it; as may be known by its beautiful rose color, such as -strawberry juice never produces, particularly after being preserved with -sugar. This fine delicate pink tinge comes in reality from alkanet. Most -of what is called strawberry cordial, is in reality alcohol colored with -that elegant dye. - - -STRAWBERRY WINE.--Fill four glass jars holding each a quart, with fine -ripe strawberries that have been hulled or picked clean. Cover them; -set them in a large kettle of cold water, and place it in a moderate -heat till it gradually comes to a boil. Then let it boil but five -minutes. Cork the jars, and seal them closely before you take them out -of the water. Use the cement of two-thirds resin and one-third beeswax. -Keep the jar for four weeks in a dry cool place. By that time you will -find the strawberries with a thick white scum at the top, and a clear -juice at the bottom. Pour it into clean bottles, through a funnel with a -fine straining cloth. Cork the bottles, but do not drive the corks hard -down, lest the bottles should burst if too tight. Arrange the bottles on -the kitchen mantleshelf, where they may have some heat from the fire. -You will see when a vinous fermentation takes place. It may continue a -week. When it has entirely subsided, and is very clear, strain off the -liquid from the sediment into fresh bottles, and cork them tightly. When -you put them away, lay the bottles on their sides. This is a delicious -cordial, and requires no brandy in it. - -_Preserved Gooseberries._--Top and tail the gooseberries, which should -be of two sorts, and as ripe as you can get. The best kind quite ripe, -large, and of a light amber color. Wash the others, and boil them in a -porcelain kettle with barely water enough to keep them from burning. -When they are soft and broken, mash the pulp through a sieve, or squeeze -it through a linen bag. Measure it, and to each pint allow a large pound -of powdered loaf sugar. Boil the sugar with the pulp, skimming and -stirring it till it begins to jelly. Then put in the large gooseberries, -and give them one boil up. When done take them out separately, and -spread them on a large flat dish. Continue to boil the syrup a while -longer, till you find it congeals well on holding out a spoonful in the -open air. Then put the large gooseberries into jars, and pour the syrup -over them while still hot and liquid. Put them up warm. - -_Raspberries_--May be preserved as above, reserving the finest for -putting whole into the jelly. The large white raspberries make a fine -sweetmeat, done whole in jelly or jam of white currants. - -Black currants should always be made into jelly or jam. They require -less sugar than other sweetmeats, (a quarter of a pound less) their -juice being naturally very thick. - - -COUNTRY PLUMS.--Gather your plums when perfectly ripe, and ready to fall -from the trees. Split them with a knife, and remove the stones. Spread -them out on large dishes, so as not to touch, and set them in the hot -sun on a sunny roof or balcony; taking them in every evening before -dark, and not putting them out till after the dew is off in the morning. -Repeat this for three or four days. Then pack them down in stone jars -with a large quantity of the best brown sugar, a layer of plums and a -layer of sugar alternately, (sugar being at the bottom and top) and -cover the jars closely. Let them remain undisturbed till February or -March. When opened, you will have plenty of rich syrup among them. They -make good spring pies, and will be prized for family use at that season. - -_Country Grapes._--The little wild grapes have a very pleasant taste -after the first frost in the autumn, and should not be gathered till -that time. Until frosted, they are too sour to eat. To keep them all -winter, strip them from the stems and put them in stone jars with layers -of good brown sugar, till the jars are three parts full. Then fill up to -the top with West India molasses. They will make good winter pies, when -cranberries, dried peaches, and dried apples are scarce. - -_Persimmon Jam._--Do not gather persimmons till late in the fall, when -they are well sweetened with the frost. They are unfit to eat till all -the leaves are off the trees, and till they are ripe enough to mash. -Then pack them in jars with plenty of brown sugar. Maple sugar will do. -In the back-woods they will be valued. When cooked they will be improved -by the addition of a little _sweet_ cider. - - - - -PICKLES. - - -For pickles the articles should all be fine and freshly gathered. They -are generally too hard to be cut or eaten conveniently, and there is too -much unnecessary fear of pickles proving soft. It is not now customary -to keep them for weeks in salt and water; two or three days will be -sufficient for this part of the process, and some kinds do not require -it at all. The arts of both preserving and pickling are of late years -much simplified. All pickles have nearly the same taste, and there is no -use (and much trouble) in multiplying varieties, when a few sorts of the -very best will be found amply sufficient for any table. One important -point to be always observed, is to use none but the most wholesome -vinegar, (the genuine cider,) as all that is made of drugs is -unwholesome to the eater and destructive to the pickles. On no -consideration boil them in brass, copper, or bell-metal--things which -fortunately are now nearly exploded from all kitchens; iron lined with -Delft, (called porcelain,) being universally substituted. - -To green pickles boil them with a thick bed of fresh vine leaves, both -under and over them. This will first render them yellow; then boil them -again in a clean kettle with fresh vine leaves. If not green enough when -you think they are done, repeat the boiling again, with fresh vine -leaves and fresh water. Avoid eating pickles that are of a fine -verdigris green. They are greened with copper, and are poisonous. - -If you cannot obtain vine leaves, you may green pickles by boiling them -with fresh cabbage leaves under and over. The first boiling will turn -them yellow, the second with new leaves should render them green. But -vine leaves are better and more certain. Put them up warm in stone or, -glass jars with broad flat corks; and tie kid leather over them. - - -INDIA PICKLE.--For this pickle you may use a variety of _young_ fruits -and vegetables. For instance, red cherries, grapes, plums, apricots, -young peaches, or lemons, limes, button-tomatos, cauliflowers sliced, -white cabbage sliced, hard-boiled eggs sliced, little onions, -nasturtions, small cucumbers, &c. Having nicely prepared these things, -put them all together into a large porcelain kettle, and scald them in a -strong brine made in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of fine salt -to a quart of boiling water. Pour it hot over the pickles, and let them -remain in it till next day. Then take them out, and drain off all the -brine through a sieve. Spread them out (so as not to touch,) on large -flat dishes or old japan servers, and set them in the hot sun for three -or four days; carefully taking them in at evening, and if the weather -becomes damp or cloudy. Afterwards put them into a cullender or sieve, -wash them well through cold water, and then wipe them all dry with a -coarse cloth. Put them into a large pan. Mix together a quarter pound of -grated horse-radish, sliced; two cloves of garlic; half a hundred small -white onions; two ounces of mace; a quarter of a pound of ground ginger; -two nutmegs, powdered; two pounds of powdered loaf sugar; half a bottle -of the best ground mustard; half a pound of yellow mustard seed, and an -ounce of turmeric powder, which must on no account be omitted, as a -yellow tinge is indispensable to this pickle. Mix all the seasoning with -sufficient excellent cider vinegar to render it liquid, and pour it over -the pickles in the pan, and then stir them up from the bottom. Let the -whole rest till cold. Then transfer it to stone jars. Have ready some -more vinegar, pour it boiling hot on the pickles, &c., but do not fill -up to the top, as they expand and rise. - - -PICKLED PEACHES.--Take eight fine large free-stone peaches, (white or -yellow,) when nearly but not quite ripe. Wipe off the down with a clean -flannel, and put them into a brine strong enough to bear up an egg. In -two days take them out, and drain them for several hours on an inverted -sieve. Tie in a piece of thin muslin one ounce of whole white pepper; -one of broken-up ginger; eight blades of mace, and two ounces of mustard -seed. Boil this seasoning for ten minutes in a quart of the best cider -vinegar. Lay the peaches in a broad-mouthed stone jar, with the bag of -spice at the bottom, and pour the vinegar boiling hot upon them. At the -top add a table-spoonful of salad oil. Put them up warm, and secure them -with broad flat corks, and rounds of leather tied on carefully. - -_Peach Mangoes._--The above sort of peaches are best for mangoes. Steep -them in brine for two days. Cut a small piece out of each, and carefully -loose the stones from the inside with a small sharp knife. It will then -be easy to thrust them out of free-stone peaches, and none others should -be used, either for pickling or preserving. Make a filling for the -places that were occupied by the stones. For this purpose, use fresh -mustard seed moistened with vinegar; scraped horse-radish, powdered -ginger, a clove of garlic, or a minced shalot or very small onion, and a -very little chilli or red pepper minced very small. Also a little -powdered mace, and a little chopped peach. With this mixture stuff the -peaches hard. Replace the bits that were cut off, and tie them on firmly -with fine packthread, crossing the peach. Boil a quart of the best -vinegar, seasoned with white spices and mustard seed, tied up in muslin; -and when it has boiled ten minutes, pour it hot over the peach mangoes -in a stone jar. Add at the top a table-spoonful of salad oil; cork the -jar immediately, and tie leather over it. Where there is no dislike to -cloves, you may stick half a dozen into the outside of each peach; but -we think a few small bits of mace will be preferable, as the clove -taste will overpower every thing else. - - -MELON MANGOES.--Take the small green melons, used only for this purpose, -and let them lie in a strong brine for two days. Take them out and drain -them well. Cut a small square bit out of one side, and through this hole -extract all the seeds and filaments. Have ready a stuffing made of -grated horse-radish, white mustard seed, minced shalot, or a clove of -garlic chopped fine; a very little chilli or red pepper, and a little -powdered mace. Wet this stuffing well with vinegar, and then fill with -it the cavity of the mango. Replace the bit that was cut out, and tie it -in with packthread, crossing all over the melon. Then place the mangoes -in a stone jar. Have ready a sufficiency of the best vinegar, (a large -quart or more, for eight or ten mangoes,) boiled ten minutes, with a -seasoning of mustard seed, ginger, mace, grated horse-radish, and -chopped shalot or little onion, or a clove of garlic minced very -small--all tied in a bit of muslin. Pour the vinegar boiling hot over -the mangoes, having placed among them the bag of seasoning. Finish with -sweet oil at the top of the jar. - - -MUSHROOMS PICKLED.--For pickling, the small button mushrooms are best. -After cutting off the stalk closely, and with a sharp penknife peeling -off carefully their thin outside skin, measure two quarts, taking care -that they are all of the right sort, and freshly gathered; the outside -of a dull whitish color, and the underside of a fine pinkish salmon -tinge. If very white above and below, or if bright yellow, they are -poisonous. _Good_ mushrooms grow always in open fields or airy places; -never in woods or marshes. To pickle two quarts, prepare eight little -bags of very clear muslin; and tie up in each bag six blades of mace, -six slices of root ginger, and half a nutmeg broken up. Have ready four -glass jars, such as are considered to hold a quart. Lay a bag of spice -in the bottom of each. Having sprinkled the mushrooms well with salt, -let them rest till next day. Then divide the mushrooms and their liquor -into four pints. Put one pint into each jar, with a bag of spice at the -bottom, and another at the top. Pour on boiling cider vinegar of the -best quality, and finish with a table-spoonful of salad oil. Cork the -jars immediately, and tie leather carefully over the top. All mushrooms -turn brown on the under-side the day after they are gathered, and -sometimes sooner. - -Boiling the spice in the vinegar will weaken the mushroom flavor. When -you open a jar of pickled mushrooms, immediately cork it again; tie on -the leather cover, and use it up as soon as possible. Therefore, pint -jars, with half a pint of mushrooms in each, are convenient. - - -BELL-PEPPERS PICKLED.--Take fine full-grown bell-peppers. Make a brine -in a stone jar of salt and water, strong enough to float an egg, and let -the peppers remain in it two days, putting a weight on the cover to keep -it down. Then take them out, wash them well in cold water, drain them, -and wipe them dry. Cut a slit in the side of each, and extract all the -seeds, as if left in, they will be entirely too hot. Through these slits -let all the water run out. Put them into a clean stone jar. Boil -sufficient of the best cider vinegar, interspersed with the muslin bags -of broken-up cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. Pour it, boiling hot, on the -peppers in the jar. Distribute the bags of spice among the peppers, and -cork the jar warm. You may stuff the peppers in the manner of mangoes, -with pickled red cabbage finely shred, minced onions and minced -cucumbers pickled, and seasoned with a little mustard seed, ginger, and -mace. Tie up the slit with packthread, crossing all round. Fill up the -jars with vinegar, putting sweet oil on the top. - -Your may green bell-peppers in the usual way, with vine leaves or -cabbage leaves. - -All pickles should be kept in a dry place. If you find them mouldy they -are not always spoiled. Take them out of the jar, wipe off all the mould -carefully, and throw away the vinegar. Wash the jar very clean, scald -it, and set it in the sun to purify still more. Make a new pickle with -fresh seasoning, and put them into that. - - -PICKLED CAULIFLOWERS.--Take large, ripe, full-blown cauliflowers. Remove -the leaves and stalk, and divide the blossom into pieces or clusters of -equal size. Throw them into a porcelain kettle of boiling water, (adding -a little salt,) let them simmer, and skim them well. When they come to a -boil, take them up with a perforated skimmer, and lay them on a sieve to -drain. Put them into stone jars, (three parts full.) Season with mace -and nutmeg infused in sufficient of the best cider vinegar, and simmer -it for a quarter of an hour. When it comes to a boil take it off the -fire, and pour it hot over the cauliflower in the jar, filling quite up -to the top, and adding sweet oil at the last. Cover it while warm, and -tie leather over the top. If you wish to have the cauliflowers yellow, -boil with the vinegar some turmeric powder tied up in thin muslin. This -is a very nice pickle. - -Broccoli is done in the same manner, but should be previously greened by -boiling it with vine leaves. - - -PICKLED BEETS WITH CABBAGE.--Take a large fine _red_ cabbage, wash it -well, and drain it. Quarter it, (having removed the stalk) and slice it -with a cabbage-cutter as for coldslaw. Boil some beets in the usual way -till quite tender, (they require a very long time) and while warm peel -and slice them in round pieces, or split them down, and cut them into -long bits. Lay them in a large stone jar, alternately with layers of -the shred cabbage, till the jar is more than half full. Have ready some -scalding vinegar that has been boiled with a seasoning of blades of mace -and sliced ginger root, and some nutmeg. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, -upon the cabbage and beet, till you have the jars quite full. Finish -with a large table-spoonful of sweet oil. Cover the jar with leather, -and put it away warm. - - -PICKLED CUCUMBERS.--Take small young cucumbers, freshly gathered, and -free from blemishes. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg, and let -the cucumbers lie in it till they become yellow, stirring them down to -the bottom twice a day. Then pour off all the brine, wash the cucumbers -in cold water, and drain them. Lay a thick bed of fresh green vine -leaves in the bottom and sides of a porcelain kettle. Put in the -cucumbers, and pour on sufficient cold water to wet them all -plentifully. Then cover them, closely, with more vine leaves, and pour -on more water, packing the leaves well and pressing them down. Fill up -to the top with water and vine leaves, and cover the kettle closely to -keep in the steam. Hang it over a slow fire where there is no blaze, and -keep it _warm_ all night, but not _hot_. In the morning if the pickles -are not a fine deep green, remove the vine leaves and replace them with -a fresh supply. After this, they will be generally green enough; but if -not, continue till they are. Then drain the cucumbers on a sieve, and -transfer them to a very clean stone jar. To fifty cucumbers allow four -quarts of excellent vinegar, and a bit of alum about the size of a large -grain of corn, with half an ounce of mustard seed, half an ounce of -mace, a broken-up nutmeg, and half an ounce of root ginger, sliced. Tie -up the spice in three muslin bags, and boil them ten minutes in the -vinegar. Then take out and lay them among the cucumbers in the jar; one -to the bottom, one in the middle, and one at the top. Pour over them the -vinegar boiling hot; add a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and cork the jar -immediately, tying a leather over it. Keep wooden pickle spoons in the -pantry for taking out pickles, and always be careful to close the jar -immediately after. - -You need not keep the bags of spice in the jars more than two or three -weeks. - - -PICKLED ONIONS.--Take the small silver-skinned white onions. Peel off -the outer skin. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg, skim it -well, and when it begins to cool pour it upon the onions. Let them stand -in it (closely covered,) till quite cold. Then take them out, peel off -another skin, and wash them through a cullender in cold water. Next, -boil them in milk till tender all through, so that you can easily pierce -them with a needle. Then drain off the milk. Measure them, and to a -quart of onions allow a quart of the best cider vinegar. Boil in the -vinegar two muslin bags tied up with broken-up nutmeg and mace. When it -has boiled, pour it hot over the onions in the jar; having laid one bag -of spice at the bottom, and one in the middle. The onions should fill -two thirds of the jar, and the vinegar the remainder. Finish with a -table-spoonful of salad oil, and cork the jar immediately, and tie on -the leather cover. - -As onions pickled this way are generally much liked, it is well, when -doing them, to make several jars full. - -_Cucumber and Onion Pickle._--To a dozen fine cucumbers allow three -large onions. Pare the cucumbers and peel the onions, and cut both into -thick slices. Sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and let them rest till -next day. Then drain them well, and put them into a stone jar. Pour -boiling vinegar over them. Close the jar, and set it in a warm place. -Next day repeat the boiling vinegar, and cork the jar. Next day repeat -it again, with a bag of mace, nutmeg, and ginger, boiled in the vinegar. -Then cork the jar, and tie it up. When the pickle is finished, divide it -in small stone jars, with sweet oil on the top of each. - - -WALNUTS OR BUTTERNUTS PICKLED--Gather them in early summer, when they -are full-grown, but so tender that a large needle will easily pierce -them all through. Rub off the outer skin with a coarse cloth, and then -lay them in salt and water for a week, changing the brine every other -day. Allow for this brine a small quarter of a pound of salt to a large -quart of water. Make enough to cover all the nuts well. Place a large -lid over the pan, and keep them closely from the air. The last day take -them out of the brine, drain them, and prick every one quite through in -several places with a large needle. Drain them again, spread them out on -large flat dishes, and set them to blacken for two days in the hot sun. -For a hundred nuts, allow a gallon of excellent cider vinegar, half an -ounce of black pepper-corns, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of -allspice, an ounce of root ginger, and an ounce of mace. Boil the spice -in the vinegar for ten minutes, tied up in eight small muslin bags. Then -take them out, and having divided the nuts in four stone jars, -distribute among them, equally, the bags of spice, and pour on the -vinegar hot, an equal portion in each jar. While warm, secure them with -flat corks, and tie leather over them. Done this way, you may begin to -use them in a week. If you have not enough of vinegar to fill the jars -up to the top, add some cold, and strew among the nuts some blades of -mace. Finish with a large spoonful of salad oil at the top of each jar. - - -PICKLED PLUMS.--Take large fine plums; perfect, and quite ripe. To every -quart of plums allow half a pound of the best white sugar powdered, and -a large pint of the best cider vinegar. Melt the sugar in the vinegar, -and put it with the fruit into a porcelain kettle; all the plums having -been previously pricked to the stone with a large needle. Lay among them -some small muslin bags filled with broken nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon; -and if you choose, a few cloves. Give them one boil up, skimming them -well. Put them warm into stone jars, with the bags interspersed, and -cork them immediately. Green gages may be done in this manner, first -rendering them greener by boiling with vine leaves in the usual way. - -_Damsons Pickled._--Do these in the same manner as plums; but as they -are much more acid, allow brown sugar of the best kind. Plums or damsons -may be pickled plain, and with little trouble if full ripe, pricked with -a needle, and packed down in a stone jar with profuse layers of brown -sugar between the layers of fruit; the jars filled up with cold cider -vinegar, and putting sweet oil at the top. - - -_Pickled Cherries._--Take the largest and finest red cherries, fully -ripe. Morellas are the best. Either remove the stems entirely, or cut -them short, within two inches of the fruit. Have ready a large glass -jar. Fill it two thirds with fresh newly-gathered cherries, and then -fill up to the top with the best vinegar. Keep it well covered, and if -both fruit and vinegar are of excellent quality, no boiling is -necessary, and no spice, as the cherry flavor will be retained, and they -will not shrivel. - -_Button Tomatos._--The small round tomatos, either red or yellow, will -keep perfectly, if put whole into cold vinegar of the _really_ best -quality. You may add a bag of spice if you choose. - -_Nasturtion Seeds._--Keep a large glass jar of cold cider vinegar, and -put in the green seeds of nasturtions after the flowers are off, and the -seeds full-grown, but not hard. Remove the stalks. In this simple way -nasturtions will keep perfectly well, and are an excellent substitute -for capers with boiled mutton. They can be raised profusely, even in a -city garden, and the blossoms are very beautiful. With pepper-grass and -nasturtion flowers from your own garden, you can have a nice salad for a -summer evening tea-table. - -The three pickles above (cherries, button tomatos, and nasturtion -seeds,) are cheap, easy, and palatable. Try them. To flavor them with -spice, boil the vinegar with a bag of spice in it, and pour it on hot, -leaving the bag among them in the jar. - - - - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. - - -CHICKEN BROTH.--Skin and cut up a fine full-grown fowl. If but little is -wanted, take only the dark meat for the broth, and put it into a pot -with a small quart of water, and slowly boil it to rags. Strain the -liquid and return it to the pot, and thicken it with two spoonfuls of -arrow root, if no vegetables are permitted. Otherwise, you may boil with -the chicken some sliced onion and sliced turnip, with a grated parsnip -and a sliced potato, straining out the vegetables with the shreds of -fowl. You may reserve the white meat of the breast and wings to make -another dish, if the patient is permitted to take it. This is the white -meat cut off the bones, and stewed slowly in fresh oyster liquid, with a -bit of nice butter. If the patient is well enough, stir in a beaten egg -just before the stew is taken from the fire. - -_Oyster Soup for Invalids._--Remove the gristle from a dozen fine large -fresh oysters. Take half their liquor and mix it with an equal portion -of very good milk, seasoning it with three or four blades of mace, and a -stalk of celery scraped and cut into pieces. When it has boiled and been -skimmed well, strain it over the oysters, and let all simmer together -till the oysters are plumped, but do not let them come to a boil. Serve -it up in a bowl, with some milk biscuit to eat with it. - -_Clam Soup for Invalids._--Where salt is permitted, cut up and boil -slowly in their own liquor a dozen or more small sand clams. When well -boiled and skimmed, strain the liquor into a clean sauce-pan, and -thicken it with bread crumbs, and a small bit of nice fresh butter. The -clams are of no further use. Throw them away. - - -MUTTON BROTH FOR THE SICK.--Take two pounds from a nice neck of mutton, -and leave out some of the fat if there seems too much. Cut the meat from -the bones, and put it into a pot with a large quart of water, and no -seasoning. Boil it till the meat is all in rags. Do not skim it, as the -fat on the surface is very healing, if without salt or pepper. When -done, strain it into a bowl. Let the patient eat with it a slice of very -light wheat bread, having the crust cut off. It is excellent for the -dysentery. When the patient is convalescent, a little seasoning may be -allowed, and some well-boiled mashed turnips stirred into the bowl of -soup with a boiled onion sliced, and a thickening of arrow-root or -farina, stirred in about half an hour before the soup is taken up. Pour -it off clear from the shreds of meat at the bottom. - -_Veal Broth for Invalids._--Take a pound of knuckle of veal cut in -pieces, four calf's feet, split up. Boil them in a large quart of water, -till they are all reduced to rags. Then strain the liquid, and add to it -the soft part, only, of half a dozen fine oysters, and three or four -blades of mace. Set it again on the fire, and as soon as it simmers -well, take it off, and serve it up with very light milk biscuit, or -little bread rolls, to eat with it. Veal broth may be made with a piece -of knuckle of veal cut small, and boiled in the liquor of clams instead -of water. The clams themselves must be omitted, as they are always tough -and indigestible for an invalid, but their liquor adds a pleasant -relish to the insipidity of the veal. As the strength of the patient -improves, a grated carrot, a sliced onion, and some sliced turnip, may -be added to the veal from the beginning. - -_Raw Oysters for the Sick._--Take large fine fresh oysters, and -carefully cut out the hard part or gristle. They are considered very -good for convalescents, being, when raw, cooling, refreshing, and -nutritious. Drain them well from the liquor, making them as dry as you -can; and if permitted, accompany the oysters with black pepper and -vinegar, and a plate of bread and butter. - -_Birds._--Convalescents, not yet allowed to eat meat, can generally -relish birds nicely broiled, or stewed in their own gravy, with any -appropriate seasoning, and a little _fresh_ butter, if they are not very -fat. When dished, lay under each a piece of nice toast, dipped for a -minute in hot water. - -_Beefsteak for Invalids._--When this can be eaten with an appetite, -there is no greater promoter of returning health; but it must be of the -best sirloin steak, very tender, well broiled, and thoroughly done on -both sides, the gravy being carefully saved to serve up with it, a -little fresh butter being added after the meat comes off the gridiron. -If the taste of onion is desired, merely rub the plate with a peeled -onion. A very tender lamb-chop well broiled may be eaten by way of -change; but a tenderloin steak is better. Avoid pork, or veal cutlets. - -_Gravy Sippets._--For invalids who cannot yet eat meat, a light and -relishing preparation may be made with one or two slices of the best -wheat bread, divested of the crust, and spread on a hot plate, while -some nice well-skimmed gravy is poured over them; the gravy of roast -beef, veal, or mutton, that has had no butter about it. Gravy sippets -will form a variety to the usual broths, and other beginnings for the -resumption of animal food. - - -HERB TEAS.--Have one or more china or white-ware pots for the purpose of -making herb teas; and see that, after using, they are well washed, well -scalded and dried, and set open in the sun till wanted again. The herbs, -whether green or dried, should be of excellent quality, and picked very -clean from dust and stems. Having well-scalded the pot, take the -allotted quantity of the herb and put it in; then pour on the water, -which must be actually boiling at the time, and press the herbs down at -the bottom with a silver spoon. Then put on the lid closely, and -immediately stop up the spout with a small cork, or a wad of soft white -paper rolled tightly. This is to keep in the steam, and prevent the -strength of the herb from escaping. When sufficiently boiled, pour into -a pitcher with a lid, and through a strainer, as much of the tea as is -wanted. Strainers of block tin, with a handle and _very fine_ close -holes, are excellent for this and other purposes. - -_Herb Candies._--Hoarhound candy, and many others, may be made of a -strong decoction or tea of the herb, thickened with loaf sugar, and -boiled, skimmed, and stirred till very thick and stiff. Then pour it -smoothly into a square tin pan and set it in a cool place to congeal. -While still soft, mark it in even squares with a knife. When quite cold -and hard, loosen it from the pan with a knife, and take it out. It is -good for coughs. - -Peppermint candy is made in the same way, and is used for flatulence. - - -GRUEL.--Gruels, for patients who are unable to take any thing more -substantial, may be made of ground rice flour, arrow root, indian meal, -oatmeal grits, or farina. Mix to a paste, with water, two large -table-spoonfuls of any of the above articles; then stir the paste, -gradually, into a pint of water boiling on the fire, making it very -smooth and pressing out all the lumps. To prevent it boiling over, when -it has risen nearly to the top of the pan, remove it from the fire. -Sweeten it while hot, and, if permitted, add a little white wine with -nutmeg, and a small bit of fresh butter. - -_Toast and Water._--Cut a large slice or two of the best wheat bread; -pare off all the crust; and with a long-handled toasting fork toast it -evenly on both sides, not allowing it to blacken or burn in any part. -While hot from the fire, plunge the toast immediately into a quart -pitcher of clear cold water. Cover the pitcher instantly, and let it -infuse for half an hour or more, without leaving off the cover. When -done, it should be of a very pale brown color. - - -JELLY WATER.--Stir a table-spoonful of currant jelly into a half pint -tumbler of ice water, if the patient is feverish. The jelly may be of -other fruit, and if not sweet enough add some loaf sugar. The juice of -any ripe fruit, made sweet and mixed with cold water, is a good -substitute when sweetmeats are not at hand. Warm drinks are now seldom -used, but to promote perspiration and carry off a cold. Tamarinds are in -themselves very cooling and pleasant, and make an agreeable drink -infused in water, either warm or cold. - - -CARRAGEEN BLANCMANGE.--Carrageen is a species of sea moss which becomes -glutinous when boiled, and is considered remarkably nutritious and -strengthening. It can also be rendered very palatable. It is found -abundantly on some parts of our sea-coast, and may be obtained of the -best druggists, very nicely cleaned and pressed. To a small loose -handful of carrageen allow a small quart of rich unskimmed milk, half a -pound of powdered white sugar, a stick of the best cinnamon broken-up, -six or seven blades of mace, and half a nutmeg, powdered. Having washed -the carrageen through two or three cold waters, and shaken it out to -remove the drops that hang about it, put it to a pint and a half of the -cold milk. Boil it half an hour in a covered porcelain kettle. Then take -it out, for if it boils too long the carrageen will taste too strongly. -In another vessel boil the remaining half pint of milk with the spices, -till very highly flavored. Then strain it into the carrageen milk, and -stir in, gradually, the half pound of powdered loaf sugar. Set the -porcelain kettle again over the fire, and let it boil fast for five -minutes longer. Then strain it into moulds or bowls previously wet with -cold water; and when it has well congealed, turn it out, and serve it up -with sweetened cream, flavored with rose-water or peach-water. If for an -invalid, who is not allowed spices, flavor it with rose-water only, -stirred in after the blancmange has been taken from the fire. - - -FARINA BLANCMANGE.--From a quart of rich milk take out half a pint. Put -the half pint into a small sauce-pan, and add (if permitted) sufficient -mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon to flavor it well; the spices being tied up -in a very thin muslin bag. Then add the flavored milk to the remainder, -having stirred in two heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Set -it over the fire in a porcelain kettle, and when it has come to a boil -sprinkle in, gradually, four large heaping table-spoonfuls of farina, -stirring it well. Keep it boiling a quarter of an hour after all the -farina is in. When done, strain it into blancmange moulds, and set it on -ice to congeal. If for an invalid not allowed spice, boil it plain, and -when taken from the fire stir in a wine-glass of rose-water. If -rose-water is boiled with it from the beginning, the strength and flavor -will evaporate. - -_Farina Flummery._--Mix with a small pint of water a large pint of the -juice of ripe currants, or strawberries, or of stewed cranberries in -winter, made very sweet with white sugar. Boil the water and juice -together, and stir in gradually a quarter pound of farina, and then boil -it fifteen minutes longer. Afterwards transfer it to moulds, and set it -on ice till congealed. - -_Farina Gruel._--Have some water boiling on the fire, and when it boils -fast, sprinkle in sufficient farina to make it moderately thick. Then -sweeten it with white sugar. If permitted, stir in some white wine, and -nutmeg grated. - - -BEEF TEA.--Take a pound of fine fresh beefsteak cut from the round, -without any fat. Chop it into small bits, and season it with a level -salt-spoon of salt. Put it into a wide-mouthed bottle, cork it closely, -and set it into a kettle of cold water, which must reach to the neck of -the bottle. Let it boil steadily for three hours, by which time the -essence will be all extracted from the beef. Then remove the cork, and -strain the liquid into a bowl, and skim it. It can be made still more -conveniently in a _bain-marie_ or double kettle; an article useful for -many purposes, particular in cookery for an invalid. Mutton or veal tea -are made in the same manner. Also chicken tea, or essence of any sort of -poultry or game. - -_Chicken Panada._--Having skinned and cut up a fine full-grown chicken, -take the white meat from the breast and wings, and mince it small for -panada. The dark meat will do for chicken tea. Add to the panada a slice -of wheat bread crumbled and mixed in, and boil it in a _bain-marie_ with -the water outside; seasoning it (if permitted) with powdered mace or -nutmeg. - -_Sweet Panada._--Mix with a pint of water a glass of madeira or sherry; -a heaped table-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, half the yellow rind of -a lemon grated, and half the juice; and a half tea-spoonful of powdered -nutmeg or mace. Set the mixture over the fire, and as soon as it boils -add crumbled milk biscuit, or a rusk. Then give it another boil up. - - -BARLEY WATER.--Having washed clean two ounces of pearl barley, put it -into a sauce-pan with a quart of water, the grated rind and the juice of -a lemon, and two ounces of seeded raisins. Boil it slowly till the -liquid is reduced one half. Then strain it, and sweeten it, while warm, -with loaf sugar. - -_Gum Arabic Water._--Take an ounce of the best and cleanest gum arabic. -Put it into a pitcher, and pour on a pint of boiling water, and stir -while dissolving. When cool, squeeze in (if permitted) the juice of a -lemon, and add loaf sugar enough to make it pleasantly sweet. Gum arabic -water, alone, is sometimes given to a patient, whom it is expedient to -keep very low as a preventive to inflammation. - -_Tamarind Water._--This is a pleasant and cooling drink in fevers, -allowing half a pint of cold water to as many tamarinds as you can take -up with a table-spoon. Cover it, and let it stand for a few minutes. - -_Apple Water._--Take four fine large juicy apples, (pippins or -bellflowers,) core and pare them, and bake them side by side in a tin -pan. When well done and quite soft all through, put them into a pitcher -and fill up with warm water. Simmer them over the fire, and when quite -soft mash them; and, if necessary, add more water till they become a -thick liquid that can be drank. Sweeten well with loaf sugar, and if -permitted, add some lemon juice or rose-water. Drink it cool. - -_Egg Wine._--Break a nice fresh egg into a tumbler, and beat it till -smooth and thick. Add a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, and -stir in a glass of the best port wine. This, when permitted, is very -strengthening and cheering for an invalid, to take about the hour of -noon or earlier. When wine is not allowed, you may beat the egg into a -glass of new unskimmed milk. - - -WHEY.--Milk can be converted into a curd by the infusion of rennet -water, white wine, lemon juice, tamarind juice, or vinegar, stirred into -good milk, covered and set in a warm place till the curd has formed, and -has separated from the whey which remains beneath it. Take off the curd -carefully, breaking it as little as possible, and put it into a deep -dish. Pour the whey into a pitcher. It should look clear, and greenish -rather than white, and have none of the milk curd remaining about it. -Set the pitcher on ice. It is an excellent drink in fevers. When -approved, the curd may be eaten in a saucer with sugar. For rennet whey, -cut a piece of dried rennet about two inches square, and wipe all the -salt from the outside, but do not wash it. Soak the bit of rennet for -several hours (or all night) in a small tea-cup of lukewarm water. Then -pour the rennet water into the milk. For wine whey, boil a jill of -sherry in a pint of milk, without stirring it. - - -TAPIOCA.--Having washed in cold water three heaped table-spoonfuls of -tapioca; drain it, put it into a clean quart bowl, pour on water enough -to cover it well, and soak it four hours. Then pour on as much more -water, transfer the whole to a porcelain skillet, in the bottom of which -you have laid the yellow peel of a fresh lemon, pared so thin as to be -transparent, and boil the tapioca gently till it looks quite clear. Then -take out the lemon peel, and stir in sufficient loaf sugar to make it -very sweet. If approved, flavor it with some madeira or sherry, and some -grated nutmeg. Tapioca may be boiled in plain milk, with no seasoning -but the sugar to sweeten it. - -_Sago._--Pick and wash clean, in two cold waters, a half pint of sago. -Put it into a porcelain skillet, with the yellow rind of a lemon pared -transparent. Pour on it a quart of water, and let it all soak for two -hours. Then set it over the fire, and boil it, gently, till the lemon is -all to pieces and nearly dissolved, and the sago looks clear. Take out -the lemon peel, and stir in, if permitted, some sherry wine, sugar, and -grated nutmeg, and give it another boil. - -If the above seasoning is not allowed, boil the sago in milk only, or -water only, till the liquid becomes thick and like a jelly. - -_Sago Pudding for an invalid._--Boil three table-spoonfuls of _soaked_ -sago in a pint of milk till quite soft. Add gradually three ounces of -white sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat three eggs till thick and -smooth, and stir them by degrees into the sago and milk. Grate in some -nutmeg, and bake the pudding in a deep dish. Tapioca pudding is made in -the same manner. - - -SWEETBREADS FOR INVALIDS.--Cut open two fine fresh sweetbreads, and lay -them in warm water till all the blood is discharged. Then transfer them -to a pan of cold water to blanch or whiten. Stew them in the strained -liquid of fresh oysters, till quite tender. When done, take out the -sweetbreads, remove the gristle or pipe, and serve them up warm, having -laid in the bottom of the dish a slice of nice toast that has been -dipped for a minute in hot water. If permitted, the oysters may be -cooked with the sweetbread, first removing the hard part. - - -STEWED SMELTS.--Smelts are considered a delicate and nutritious fish for -invalids. They are in season in winter, and early in the spring. Choose -them as large as you can find them. Having drawn and cleaned them, cut -off their heads and tails. Put sufficient water to cover them in a small -stew-pan, adding a very little powdered white sugar, and a few small -sprigs of parsley, or sweet marjoram. When the water boils lay in the -fish, and simmer them five minutes. Then stir in a very little arrow -root, mixed with a few drops of cold water, and let it stew ten minutes -longer. Serve up the stew in a small deep dish with a cover, and eat -with it some very light bread-roll. It will be a pleasant change from -the usual broths and infusions prepared for the sick. - -_A Molasses Supper._--Make a thick slice of very nice toast, evenly -browned on both sides, but not the least burnt. Lay it in a pint bowl, -and pour over it a small half pint of the best _West India_ molasses, -having stirred into the molasses a heaped table-spoonful of ground -ginger. Mix the molasses with half a pint of hot water, and pour the -whole over the toast. Cover it with a plate for a few minutes, and eat -it while warm, previous to going to bed. This is a wholesome -strengthening palatable supper for an invalid, (as we know by -experience) and may be continued as long as the patient continues to -like it. It is always a good winter supper for children. The ginger must -on no account be omitted. If the molasses has turned a little sour, stir -in a salt-spoonful of soda. - -To prevent a jug of molasses from running over when kept in a warm -place, pour out a little into another vessel, and leave the molasses jug -uncorked for two days. Then cork it tightly. - - - - -MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. - - -TEA.--No metal (not even silver,) is good for tea-pots. All tea should -be made in china or queensware. Wedgewood (whether black or white) -imbibes much of the essence of the tea, and from constant use soon -becomes unpleasant. Britannia ware is exceedingly unwholesome for any -sort of cooking, as one fourth of the composition is copper. Block tin -for a common tea-pot is less objectionable, and much cheaper. All -tea-pots should, after using, be thoroughly emptied of the old leaves, -and washed very clean in warm water, and set open in the sun and air for -several hours. To make good tea, the tea itself, whether black or green, -must be of excellent quality. There is no economy in buying that which -is low-priced. Green tea, if fresh and good, and not adulterated will -look green in the cup, and have a fragrant odor. If it draws red, or -brown, or blackish, it is old or mixed with something wrong. Begin to -make your tea about a quarter of an hour before it is wanted. Scald the -tea-pot (twice over) with boiling water. Then put in the tea, allowing -three heaping table-spoonfuls to each person, and a pint of water, -actually boiling, when put in. Cover it closely with the lid, and set it -by the fire for ten or fifteen minutes to infuse. After the first cups -have gone round, put some fresh tea into the pot, and pour on it some -more boiling water, that the second cups may be as strong as the first, -having time to infuse. Weak tea for company is very mean. For those that -like it so, have a small pot of water on the server. If the water is not -boiling fast when poured on the tea, and is beginning to cool, the tea -will be flat and insipid, and the leaves will float on the surface of -the cups. There is then no remedy but to make some fresh. - - -COFFEE.--To drink coffee in perfection, a sufficient quantity for -breakfast should be roasted every morning, and ground hot, as it loses -much of its strength by keeping even for a few hours. The best coffee -roasters are iron cylinders, (standing on feet) with a door in one side, -and a handle that turns the cylinder round towards the fire or from it, -that the coffee may be equally done throughout. It must be roasted a -bright brown color, and on no account black or burnt. When about half -done, put in bits of fresh butter, allowing a table-spoonful to a pound -of coffee. Previous to roasting pick the coffee carefully, throwing away -the defective grains, and the stones or sand. Coffee should be ground -while warm in a mill kept solely for that purpose, and fastened up -against the kitchen wall. - -For boiled coffee allow four ounces of ground coffee (or a quarter of a -pound) to a quart of water. When the water boils, stir in the coffee. -Give it one hard boil up. Then set it farther from the fire, and simmer -it for ten minutes, adding the white of an egg, (including the egg -shell,) or a small strip of isinglass. Pour out a large cup of the -coffee, and then (holding it high above the coffee-pot,) pour it back -again. Repeat this till wanted, and then set the coffee-pot beside the -fire, (but not over it.) For company, allow six ounces of coffee to a -quart of water. Keep the lid always on, but if when boiling hard it -rises and seems inclined to run over, remove it instantly from the fire -and set it back. Cream is indispensable to first-rate coffee; if not to -be obtained sweet, substitute rich milk boiling hot. On no consideration -fill up the coffee-pot with water. A percolator (to be had at the best -tin stores) makes excellent coffee without boiling, if properly managed. - - -CHOCOLATE.--There is no plain chocolate better than Baker's prepared -cacao, and none has so much of the true chocolate flavor. The foreign -chocolate is generally mixed with sugar, spice, and milk. It cannot be -made thick and strong, and therefore to many tastes is not agreeable. To -make a pint (or two large cupfuls of chocolate,) scrape down two ounces -on a plate, and moisten the chocolate with a jill of water, rubbing it -on the plate till quite smooth. Then boil it five minutes, and add a -small pint of water. When it has been well stirred with a wooden spoon, -and has come again to a boil, serve it as hot as possible, accompanied -by a saucer of fine loaf sugar, and a small jug of rich hot cream and a -plate of nice dry toast, or some milk biscuits or sponge cake. Milled -chocolate is made with rich unskimmed milk instead of water. The -chocolate mill is a deep pot, belonging to which is a stick with a broad -wheel-shaped bottom, the other end coming up through a hole in the lid. -Take this between your hands, and turn it round fast till the chocolate -is finely frothed. Then transfer it to large cups. Chocolate, after it -becomes cold, is unfit to drink. But if made with milk, you can convert -what is left into a custard or pudding, with the addition of more sugar -and some beaten egg. The low-priced chocolate is both unpalatable and -unwholesome, being adulterated with animal fat or lard, and made with -_old_ cacao beans. - - -MILK TOAST.--To a pint of nice rich milk allow a quarter of a pound of -excellent _fresh_ butter. Boil the milk, and as soon as it boils take it -off, and stir in the butter cut into pieces. When the butter has melted, -give it another boil up Have ready a deep plate with four rather thick -slices of bread, nicely and evenly toasted on both sides. Pour the milk -hot over the toast, and keep it covered till it goes to the breakfast -table. Send a spoon with it. Bread should always be toasted by a -long-handled fork, such as are made for the purpose. They cost but -twenty-five cents, and no kitchen should be without one. - - -BUTTERED TOAST.--Cut even slices of bread all of the same thickness, and -pare off the whole of the crust. With a long-handled toasting fork toast -it evenly on both sides, taking care that no part of it is burnt or -blackened. Butter the slices hot, as you take them off the fork, (using -none but nice fresh butter) and lay them evenly on a heated plate. Cover -them till they go to table. - -All toast prepared for cookery, (to lay in the bottom of dishes,) should -have the crust pared off, and be dipped in hot water after toasting. - - -RASPBERRY VINEGAR.--Take a gallon of fine ripe raspberries. Put them -into a large deep earthen pan, and mash them well with a wooden beetle. -Then pour them with all their juice into a large and very clean linen -bag, and squeeze and press out their liquid into a vessel beneath. -Measure it, and to each pint of juice allow half a pint of the best and -clearest cider vinegar, and half a pound of fine loaf sugar, powdered. -First mix the juice and the vinegar, and give them a boil in a porcelain -kettle. Then stir in the sugar, gradually, adding to every two pounds -of sugar a beaten white of egg. Boil and skim till the scum ceases to -rise. When it is done, bottle it cold, cork it tightly, and seal the -corks. To use it, pour out half a tumbler of raspberry vinegar, and fill -up with ice water. It is a pleasant and cooling beverage in warm -weather, and for invalids who are feverish. Mixed with hot water, and -taken at bed-time, it is good for a cold. - -_Strawberry Vinegar_--Is made in the above manner, carefully hulling -them. The strawberries must be of the finest kind, and fully ripe. These -vinegars are made with much less trouble than the usual way; and are -quite as good, if not better. - - -MACARONI.--In buying macaroni, choose that of a large pipe; see that it -is clean and white and that it has not been touched by insects. Half a -pound makes one dish. If _soaked_ before boiling it is apt to dissolve -or go to pieces, but wash and drain it through cold water in a sieve. -Have over the fire a large pan of boiling water, in which has been -melted a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg. If boiled steadily, -it will be quite tender in less than an hour; but do not boil it so long -that the pipes break up and lose their shape. Having drained it well -through a clean sieve, transfer it to a deep dish, dividing it into four -layers, having first cut it into even lengths of two or three inches. -Between the layers place on it seasoning of grated cheese of the very -best quality, and bits of fresh butter, with some powdered mace. On the -top layer, add to the covering of cheese and butter sufficient -bread-crumbs to form a slight crust all over the surface. Brown it with -a salamander or a red hot shovel. Or (omitting the cheese) you may dress -it with rich gravy of roast meat. - -_For Sweet Macaroni._--Having boiled it in milk instead of water, drain -it, and mix with it powdered mace and nutmeg, with butter, sugar, and -rose or peach-water. Macaroni (like vermicelli) has in itself no taste, -but is only made palatable by the manner of dressing it. Good soup is -rather weakened than improved by the addition of macaroni. - - -COMMON OMELET.--Beat five eggs till very light and thick. Stir gradually -into the pan of eggs four table-spoonfuls of sifted flour. Thin the -batter with a large tea-cup of milk. Take a yeast powder; dissolve the -soda (from the blue paper) in a small quantity of tepid or lukewarm -water, and stir it into the batter. In another cup melt the tartaric -acid, (from the white paper;) stir that into the mixture, and stir the -whole very hard. Have ready in a frying-pan a large portion of lard, -boiling hot. Put in the omelet mixture, and fry it well. When one side -is done turn it, and fry the other. To flavor this omelet, mix gradually -into the batter either grated ham or smoked tongue; minced oysters; -minced onion; mixed with sweet marjoram, or else some mushrooms chopped -very fine. - -_For a Sweet Omelet_, add to the above batter powdered sugar, nutmeg, -mace, and powdered cinnamon. - -The custom is now to dish omelets without folding them over, it being -found that folding renders them heavy. Spread them out at full length on -a very hot dish. The batter for omelets should always be made in -sufficient quantity to allow them very thick. - -There is no use in attempting to flavor an omelet, or any thing else, -with marmalade or lemon, if you put in soda. The alkalies destroy the -taste of every sort of fruit. - - -A PLAIN POTATO PUDDING.--Having pared a pound of fine large potatos, put -them into a pot, cover them well with cold water, and boil them gently -till tender all through. When done, lay each potato (one at a time,) in -a clean warm napkin, and press and wring it till all the moisture is -squeezed out, and the potato becomes a round, dry lump. Mince as fine as -possible a quarter of a pound of fresh beef suet, (divested of skin, and -strings.) Crumble the potato, and mix it well with the suet, adding a -small salt-spoon of salt. Add sufficient milk to make a thick batter, -and beat it well. Dip a strong square cloth in hot water, shake it out, -and dredge it well with flour. Tie the pudding in, leaving room for it -to swell, and put it into a large pot of hot water and boil it steady -for an hour. This is a good and economical family pudding. - - -ELLEN CLARK'S PUDDING.--Slice, rather thick, some fresh bread. Pare off -all the crust. Butter the bread on both sides, and lay it in a deep -dish. Fill up with molasses very profusely, having first seasoned the -molasses with ginger, ground cinnamon, and powdered mace or nutmeg. It -will be much improved by adding the grated yellow rind and the juice of -a large lemon or orange. Bake it till brown all over the top, and till -the bread and butter has absorbed the molasses; taking care not to let -it burn. - - -ARROW-ROOT BISCUIT.--Mix in a pan half a pint of arrow-root, and half a -pint of sifted wheat flour. Cut up a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -and rub it into the pan of flour, crumbling the bits of butter so small -as to be scarcely visible. Mix a quarter of a pound of powdered white -sugar, and wet it with a beaten egg. Add gradually a very little cream, -just enough to make it into a stiff dough. Flavor it with the grated -yellow rind and juice of a lemon, and half a nutmeg grated. Roll out the -dough into thin sheets, and cut it out into biscuits with the edge of a -tumbler. Prick every biscuit all over with a fork. Lay them in square -pans slightly floured, and bake them immediately. They will be improved -by adding (at the last of the mixture) a table-spoonful of the best -rose-water. If rose-water is put into cakes _early_ in the mixing, much -of its strength will evaporate before baking. It should always be -deferred to the last. These are very nice tea biscuits. - - -ONTARIO CAKE.--Take a pint and a half (or three large breakfast cups,) -of sifted flour, and the same quantity of powdered white sugar, and half -a pint of milk; a quarter of a pint or half a cup of the best fresh -butter, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a large lemon. Have -ready four well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh -yeast. - -Cut up the butter into the pan of flour. Add the milk and sugar -gradually, and then the beaten egg, and then the lemon; next the yeast. -Stir the whole very well, and set it to rise in a buttered pan. Place it -near the fire, and cover it with a clean flannel or a double cloth. When -it has risen and is quite light, and is cracked all over the surface, -transfer it to a square baking pan, put it immediately into the oven, -and bake it well. When cool, either ice it or sift white sugar over it, -and cut it into squares. Or, you may bake it in a round loaf, or in -small round cakes. - - -NEW-YEAR'S CAKE.--Stir together a pound of nice fresh butter, and a -pound of powdered white sugar, till they become a light thick cream. -Then stir in, gradually, three pounds of sifted flour. Add, by degrees, -a tea-spoonful of soda dissolved in a small tea-cup of milk, and then a -half salt-spoonful of tartaric acid, melted in a large table-spoonful of -warm water. Then mix in, gradually, three table-spoonfuls of fine -carraway seeds. Roll out the dough into sheets half an inch thick, and -cut it with a jagging iron into oval or oblong cakes, pricked with a -fork. Bake them immediately in shallow iron pans, slightly greased with -fresh butter. The bakers in New York ornament these cakes, with devices -or pictures raised by a wooden stamp. They are good plain cakes for -children. - - -GOOD YEAST.--Take two handfuls of hops. The best hops have a fresh light -green color, and a pleasant, lively smell. Pour on them two quarts of -boiling water, and let them boil five minutes after they have come to a -boil; not longer, for it makes them bitter. Then strain the liquid into -a pan, and add a table-spoonful of brown sugar and one of salt. When -lukewarm, stir in flour enough to make a thick batter. Add a jill and a -half of fresh baker's yeast. Set it in a warm place till it begins to -ferment; then keep it in the cellar well corked. - -This yeast will continue good two weeks. When you open the jug to take -out some yeast, put in always a table-spoonful of flour before you cork -it up again. - -A stone jug or pitcher is a good vessel for yeast. Wash it very clean in -hot water, always before you put in fresh yeast, and then rinse the jug -with water in which a spoonful of pearlash has been melted, letting the -pearlash water remain in it five or six minutes, and shaking it round -hard. Then rinse it with plain cold water. - -All vessels that have contained acids should have pearlash or soda in -the rinsing water, and then be finished with plain water. - -Never clean a bottle by rinsing it with shot. The lead is poisonous, and -has caused death. Some bits of raw potato chopped, and put in the water, -will clean the inside of bottles or jugs, and brighten decanters. - - -YEAST POWDERS.--Get two ounces of bicarbonate of soda, and one ounce of -tartaric acid. Divide the soda into equal portions, about a level -tea-spoonful in each, and the tartaric acid into level salt-spoonfuls. -By _level_ we mean that the article is not to be heaped in the least, -not rising above the edge of the spoon. Cut some papers of regular and -sufficient size, and fold them nicely. Put the soda into white papers, -and the tartaric acid into blue papers. Place an equal number of each in -a little square or oblong box, standing up the papers on their folded -edges. Dissolve them in two separate cups, in as much tepid water as -will cover the powder. They must be entirely melted before using. Stir -in the soda at the beginning, and the tartaric acid at the conclusion of -the batter or cake mixture. - -We do not approve of the introduction of these substances into cakes. -They give a sort of factitious lightness very different from that -honestly produced by a liberal allowance of egg and butter, genuine -yeast, and good beating and stirring--but they destroy the taste of the -seasoning, and are certain destruction to the taste of lemon, orange, -strawberry, pine-apple, and every kind of fruit flavoring. The justly -celebrated Mrs. Goodfellow never used any of them in her school, and the -articles made there by her pupils, (of whom the author was one) were -such as no money can purchase in the present times. Any confectioner who -would _faithfully_ revive them could make a fortune by doing so. - -The present introduction of hartshorn into bread and cakes is an -abomination, rendering the articles equally unpalatable and unwholesome. -Cannot the use of hartshorn in food be put down? Which of our _American_ -doctors will write a book on "culinary poisons." - - -VINEGAR.--Mix together in a clean keg three gallons of clear rain water, -(that has been caught in a clean tub without running over the roof of a -house,) one quart of _West India_ molasses, and one pint of baker's -yeast. Cover it, and set it in a warm place where it will be exposed to -the summer sun. Remember to shake the cask every day. In three months it -will be excellent vinegar. Then transfer it to stone jugs, and keep it -closely corked. Begin it in May. - -So much of the vinegar sold in stores is concocted of pernicious drugs, -that we recommend all families to make their own, or to buy it from a -cider farmer. Good cider, set in the sun, will after a while become good -vinegar. - -What is shamefully called the best white wine vinegar is frequently a -slow poison, as may be known by its action upon oysters, pickles, &c. It -is quite clear and well to look at. Its taste is very sharp and pungent, -as to overpower and render every thing that is with it painfully sour, -and it has a singular and disagreeable smell when boiling. Oysters -cooked with this vinegar go immediately into rags, and are soon entirely -eaten up, or dissolved into a thin whitish liquid, fit for nothing but -to throw away. - -Pickles the same. A punishment should be provided by law for persons who -manufacture and sell these deleterious compounds, of which we have now -so many, that it would indeed be well if we could make at home, as far -as possible, every thing we eat and drink. - - -PINK CHAMPAGNE--(_Domestic._)--Pick from the stems three quarts of fine -ripe red currants, and mix with them three quarts of ripe white -currants. Bruise them all. Put nine pounds of loaf sugar to melt in -three gallons of very clear soft water. Boil the water and sugar -together for half an hour, skimming carefully, and pour the liquid -boiling hot over the currants. When it is nearly cold, add a small -tea-cupful of excellent strong fresh yeast. Let it ferment for two days, -and then strain it into a small cask through a very clean hair sieve. -Put into the cask half an ounce of finely-chipped isinglass. Have rather -more liquor than will fill the cask at first, and keep it to fill up as -it works over. In about a fortnight bung it up. Let it remain in the -cask till April. Then transfer it to bottles, (putting into each a lump -of double-refined loaf sugar,) and letting them remain one day uncorked. -Then cork and wire them. They must stand upright in the cellar; but when -likely to be wanted, lay a few of them on their sides for a week. - - -SHERRY COBBLER.--Lay in the bottom of a large tumbler, two -table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and squeeze over it (through a -strainer) the juice of a large lemon that has been softened by rolling -under your hand. Then half fill the tumbler with ice, broken very small. -Add a large glass of very good sherry wine. Take another tumbler, and -pour the liquid back and forward from glass to glass, till completely -mixed without stirring. Sip it through a clean straw, or one of the -tubes made on purpose. - - -MINT JULEP.--Cut two or three round slices from a fine ripe pine-apple -that has been pared; and take out the core or hard part from the centre -of each slice. A still better way is to split down the pine-apple into -four pieces, and grate two of the quarters with a coarse grater, -standing it upright while doing so. Put it into a large tumbler, and -cover the fruit with two or three heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered -loaf sugar. Add a large glass of the best brandy, and pour on cold water -till the tumbler is two-thirds full. Then put in a thick layer of finely -broken ice, till it almost reaches the top. Finish by sticking in a full -bunch of fresh green mint in handsome sprigs, that rise far above one -side of the tumbler; and at the other side place a clean straw, or one -of the tubes used for the same purpose. - - -CAROLINA PUNCH.--Mix together a tumbler of peach brandy and a tumbler of -water, the juice of two lemons, the yellow rinds of four, pared to -transparent thinness, and four large juicy free-stone peaches cut in -half, and the kernels of their stones blanched and broken up. If you -cannot obtain peaches, quarter and grate down a ripe pine-apple. Let all -these ingredients infuse with a quart of Jamaica spirits in a bowl for -two days before the punch is wanted. Keep it carefully covered with a -cloth. Then pour on sufficient cold water to make the punch of the -desired strength; and strain the liquid into another bowl, and put in a -large lump of ice. Serve it out in small glasses. - - -NECTAR.--Take two pounds of _the best_ raisins, seeded and chopped; the -grated yellow rind and the juice of four fine lemons, and two pounds of -loaf sugar, powdered. Put the sugar into a large porcelain kettle, and -melt it in a gallon of water. Boil and skim it for half an hour, and -while it is boiling hard, put in by degrees the raisins and lemons. -Continue the boiling about ten minutes. Put the mixture into a stoneware -crock, and cover it closely. Let it stand three days, stirring it down -to the bottom twice every day. Then strain it through a linen bag, and -bottle it, sealing the corks. It will be fit for use in a fortnight. -Take it in wine-glasses, with a bit of ice in each. This is a nice -temperance drink. - - -CHOCOLATE CARAMEL.--Take half a pint of rich milk, and put it to boil in -a porcelain kettle; scrape down a square and a half of Baker's -chocolate, put it into a very clean tin cup, and set on the top of a -stove till it becomes soft. Let the milk boil up _twice_. Then add, -gradually, the chocolate, and stir both over the fire till thoroughly -mixed and free from lumps. Stir in a half pint of the best white sugar -powdered, and half a jill (or four large table-spoonfuls,) of molasses. -Let the whole boil fast and constantly (so as to bubble,) for at least -one hour or more, till it is nearly as stiff as good mush. When all is -done add a small tea-spoonful of essence of vanilla, and transfer the -mixture to shallow tin pans, slightly greased with very nice sweet oil. -Set it on ice, or in a very cool place, and while yet soft mark it -deeply in squares with a very sharp knife. When quite hard, cut the -squares apart. If it does not harden well it has not been boiled long -enough, or fast enough. - - -EGGS TO BOIL.--The water must be boiling fast when the eggs are put in. -First wipe them clean all over, with a wet cloth. It is true that the -shells are never eaten, but still, if brought to table dirty and -discolored, they look slovenly, disgusting, and vulgar, such as are -never seen in good houses. Put them into water that is boiling fast; and -if desired very soft, four minutes will be sufficient. Six or eight -minutes will barely set the whites and yolks, and ten or twelve minutes -(in water that is really boiling,) will render them hard enough for -salad. In the egg-boilers that are set on the table no egg will ever -boil hard, as the water cools too soon. A _stale_ egg never boils hard. - -Except in the spring, and late in the winter, there is often much -difficulty in obtaining good eggs, unless you have fowls of your own. If -an egg is really fresh, when held up against the light, the yolk looks -round and compact and the white clear and transparent; you may then -trust it. But if the yolk is thick, broken, and mixed among the white, -and the white is cloudy and muddled, it is certainly bad, and should be -thrown away. When tried in a pan of cold water the freshest will sink, -and the stale ones float on the surface. It requires strong brine to -bear up a good egg. Eggs may be preserved for keeping a few months, by -putting every one in fast boiling water for _one minute_. Then grease -them all over the outside with good melted fat, and wedge down close -together (layer above layer,) in a box of powdered charcoal. This -preserves them for a sea voyage of several weeks. The charcoal box must -be kept closely covered, and closed immediately whenever opened. Pack -the eggs with the small end downwards. - - -POACHED EGGS.--See that the eggs are quite fresh. Pour from a kettle of -boiling water enough to fill a broad shallow stew-pan. Break the eggs -into a saucer, (one at a time,) slip them carefully into the hot water, -and let them stand in it till the whites are set. Then put the pan over -a moderate fire; and, as soon as the water boils again, the eggs are -ready. The whites should be firm, and the yolks should appear in the -centre looking yellow through a thin transparent coating of the white. -Take them out carefully (one by one,) with an egg-slice. Have ready, for -each egg, a nice slice of toast of a light brown or yellow all over. -Trim off all the crust, and dip the toast for a minute in hot water. -Then butter it _slightly_ with fresh butter. Trim off neatly the ragged -and discolored white from the edge of each egg. Lay a poached egg in the -middle of every toast, and serve them up warm. - -Instead of toast, you may lay beneath every egg a thin slice of ham, -that has been soaked, and nicely broiled and trimmed. Or, large thin -slices from the breast of a cold roast turkey, or cold fillet of roast -pork or veal. These are nice breakfast dishes. - -_Scrambled Eggs._--Make a mixture as for an omelet, but instead of -frying put it into a sauce-pan, and when it has boiled five minutes take -it off, and chop and mix all the ingredients into confusion. Serve it up -hot in a deep dish. It is eaten at breakfast, and is by many preferred -to a fried omelet. You may season it with grated ham, tongue, or sweet -herbs. - - -EGG-NOGG.--Beat, till very light and thick, the yolks only of six eggs. -Stir the eggs, gradually, into a quart of rich unskimmed milk, and add -half a pound of powdered loaf sugar, a half pint of brandy, and a grated -nutmeg. Next beat three whites of the eggs by themselves, and stir them -quickly into the mixture. Divide it into two pitchers, and pour it back -and forward from one pitcher to the other till it has a fine froth. Then -serve it in a large china bowl, with a silver ladle in it, and -distribute it in glasses with handles. - -_To Beat Eggs._--For beating eggs have a broad shallow earthen pan. If -beaten in tin, the coldness of the metal retards their lightness; for -the same reason, hickory rods are better than tin wire. Beat with a -short quick stroke, holding the egg rods in your right hand close to -your side, and do not exert your elbow, or use your arm violently with a -hard sweeping stroke; of this there is no necessity. If beaten in a -proper manner, (moving your hand _only_ at the wrist) the eggs will be -light long before you are fatigued. But you must continue beating till -after the froth has subsided, and the pan of eggs presents a smooth -thick surface, like a nice boiled custard. White of egg is done if it -stands stiff alone, and will not fall from the beater when held upon it. - -Butter and sugar should always be stirred with a strong hickory spaddle, -which resembles a short mush stick, rather broad and flattened at one -end. - - -BRAN MUFFINS.--Take three quarts of bran, (unbolted wheat flour) and -sift it into a large pan. Warm three half pints of rich milk, mixing -with it half a common tumbler of _West India_ molasses. Cut up in the -warm milk and molasses two ounces or two large heaped table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter, and stir it about till well mixed all through. Then stir -all the liquid into the flour. Beat in a shallow pan three eggs till -very thick and light, and then stir them gradually into the pan of -flour, &c. Lastly, add two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh yeast. Cover -the mixture and set it to rise. When risen very light heat a griddle on -the oven of a stove, set muffin rings upon it, fill the rings nearly to -the top, and bake the muffins. Send them to table hot, pull them open -with your fingers, and butter them. They will be much liked if properly -made and baked. - - -COTTAGE CHEESE.--This is a good way of using up a pan of milk that is -found to be turning sour. Or you may turn it, on purpose, by stirring in -a spoonful of cider vinegar. Having covered it, set it in a warm place -till it becomes a curd. Then pour off the liquid, and tie up the curd in -a clean linen bag with a pointed end, and set a bowl under it to catch -the droppings; but do not squeeze it. After it has drained ten or twelve -hours, transfer the curd to a deep dish, enrich it with some cream, and -press and chop it with a large spoon till it is a soft mass; adding, as -you proceed, an ounce or more of nice fresh butter. Then set it on ice -till tea-time. - - -FRENCH HAM PIE.--Having soaked, boiled, and skinned a small ham of the -best quality, and taken out the bone, trim it into a handsome oval -shape. Of the trimmings make a rich gravy by stewing them in a sauce-pan -with a little water, and four pigs feet, (split up.) Have ready a -plentiful sufficiency of nice forcemeat made of cold roast chicken or -veal, minced suet, and grated bread-crumbs, butter, minced sweet -marjoram or tarragon, and some hard-boiled yolk of egg crumbled. Have -ready, prepared, a very nice puff paste; line with it the bottom and -sides of a large deep dish, and lay in it the oval ham, filling up at -the corners and all round with the forcemeat, and spreading a layer of -it on the top. Pour on gravy to moisten the whole, and put on the paste -intended for the lid. Notch the edges handsomely, and stick a flower or -tulip of paste in the cross slit at the top, and place a wreath of paste -leaves all round. Bake it light brown, and eat it warm or cold. It is a -fine dish for a dinner or supper party, or for a handsome luncheon or -breakfast. - -_A Tongue Pie_--Is made in a similar manner of a boiled smoked tongue, -peeled and trimmed, and filled in with forcemeat. For a large company -have _two_ tongue pies, as it will be much liked, if made as above. - - -FIG PUDDING.--Take a pint of very ripe figs, (peeled,) cut them up and -mash them smooth with the grated yellow rind of a large ripe lemon or -orange, and the juice of two. Mix together a large spoonful of fresh -butter, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and stir the whole very hard. -Bake it in a deep dish, and eat it fresh, but not warm. Grate sugar over -the surface. When _ripe_ figs can be obtained, this pudding is much -liked. - - -POKE PLANT.--Early in the spring, the young green stalks of the -pokeberry plant, (when they are still mild and tender, and have not yet -acquired a reddish tinge or a strong unpleasant taste,) are generally -much liked as a vegetable, and are by many persons considered equal to -asparagus. They are brought in bundles to Philadelphia market. Wash and -drain them, and put them on to boil in a pot of cold water. When _quite -tender_ all through they are done. Dish them in the manner of asparagus, -laid on a toast dipped for a minute in hot water, and then buttered. - -You may pour a very little drawn or melted butter over the poke. - - -RHUBARB TARTS.--Take large fresh stalks of the rapontica plant, such as -are full-grown and reddish. Peel off the thin skin, and cut them into -bits all of the same size, either one inch or two inches long. Wash them -in cold water through a cullender, (but do not drain them much,) and put -them into a stew-pan without any more water. Mix with them plenty of -good sugar, in the proportion of half a pound of sugar to a pint of -cut-up rhubarb stalks. Cover it, and stew it slowly till quite soft. -Then mash it into a smooth mass. Have some puff-paste shells baked -empty; and when cool, fill them to the top, and grate nutmeg and -powdered sugar thickly over them. The juice and grated yellow rind of a -lemon (added when the rhubarb is half stewed,) will be a pleasant -flavoring. This is sometimes called "spring-fruit" and "pie-plant." It -comes earlier, but is by no means so good as gooseberries. We do not -think it worth preserving, or making into a sweetmeat. - - -VOL-AU-VENT.--Have ready a large quantity of the best and lightest puff -paste. Roll it an inch thick, and then cut it neatly into shapes, either -square or circular. Bake every one separately on a flat tin pan, cutting -a round hole in the centre of each, and fitting in pieces of stale bread -to keep the holes open while baking. The cakes of paste should diminish -in size as they ascend to the top, but the holes should all be of -exactly the same dimensions. The lower cake, which goes at the bottom, -should be solid and not perforated at all. The small cake which finishes -the top of the pyramid must also be left solid, for a lid. When all the -cakes are baked and risen high, (as good puff-paste always does) take -them carefully off the baking plates; remove the bread that has kept the -centres open and in shape; brush over every cake, separately, with -beaten white of egg, and pile one upon another nicely and evenly so as -to form a pyramid. Have ready a very nice stew of oysters or game cut -small, and cooked with cream, &c. Fill the pyramid with this, and then -put on the top or lid, which may terminate in a flower of baked paste. - -_A Sweet Vol-au-Vent_--May be filled with small preserves, or with ripe -strawberries or raspberries, made very sweet. Vol-au-vents are for -dinner, or supper parties. The paste should be peculiarly light. The -name _Vol-au-vent_ signifies, in French, something that will fly away in -the wind; which, however, it never does. - - -A SOUFFLE PUDDING.--Take eight rusks, or soft sugar-biscuits, or plain -buns. Lay them in a large deep dish, and pour on a pint of milk, -sufficient to soak them thoroughly. Cover the dish, and let them stand -undisturbed for about an hour and a half before dinner. In the mean -time, boil half a pint of milk in a small sauce-pan with a handful of -bitter almonds or peach kernels broken small, or a small bunch of fresh -peach-leaves, with two large sticks of cinnamon, broken up. Boil this -milk slowly, (keeping it covered,) and when it tastes strongly of the -flavoring articles, strain it, and set it away to cool. When cold, mix -it into another pint of milk, and stir in a quarter of a pound of -powdered loaf sugar. Beat eight eggs very light, and add them gradually -to the milk, so as to make a rich custard. After dinner has commenced, -beat and stir the soaked rusk very hard till it becomes a smooth mass, -and then, by degrees, add to it the custard. Stir the whole till -thoroughly amalgamated. Set the dish into a brisk oven, and bake the -pudding rather more than ten minutes. The yeast, &c., in the rusk, will -cause it to puff up very light. When done, send it to table warm, with -white sugar sifted over it. You may serve up with it as sauce sweetened -thick cream flavored with rose-water, and grated nutmeg, or powdered -loaf sugar and fresh butter stirred together in equal portions, and -seasoned with lemon or nutmeg. - - -ICED PLUM PUDDING.--Take two dozen sweet and half a dozen bitter -almonds. Blanch them in scalding water, and then throw them into a bowl -of cold water. Pound them one at a time in a mortar, till they become a -smooth paste, free from the smallest lumps. As you proceed, add -frequently a few drops of rose-water or lemon juice to make them light, -and prevent their oiling. Seed and cut in half a quarter of a pound of -the best bloom raisins. Mix with them a quarter of a pound of Zante -currants, picked, washed, and dried; and add to the raisins and currants -three ounces of citron, chopped. Mix the citron with the raisins and -currants, and dredge them all with flour to prevent their sinking or -clodding. Take a half pint of very rich milk; split a vanilla bean, and -cut it into pieces two or three inches long, and boil it in the milk -till the flavor of the vanilla is well extracted; then strain it out, -and mix the vanilla milk with a pint of rich cream, and stir in, -gradually, a half pound of powdered loaf sugar, and a nutmeg grated. -Then add the pounded almonds, and a large wine-glass of either -marasquino, noyau, curacoa, or the very best brandy. Beat, in a shallow -pan, the yolks of eight eggs till very light, thick, and smooth, and -stir them gradually into the mixture. Simmer it over the fire, (stirring -it all the time,) but take it off just as it is about to come to a boil, -otherwise it will curdle. Then, while the mixture is hot, stir in the -raisins, currants, and citron. Set it to cool, and then add a large -tea-cupful of preserved strawberries or raspberries, half a dozen -preserved apricots or peaches; half a dozen preserved green limes; and -any other very nice and delicate sweetmeats. Then whip to a stiff froth -another pint of cream, and add it lightly to the mixture. Put the whole -into a large melon-mould that opens in the middle, and freeze it in the -usual way. It will take four hours to freeze it well. Do not turn it out -till just before it is wanted. Then send it to table on a glass dish. It -will be found delicious. Iced puddings are now considered indispensable -on fashionable supper tables or at dinner parties. There is no flour in -this pudding. The freezing will keep it together. - - -RENNETS.--Milk turned into a curd with wine is by no means so good as -that which is done with rennet-water alone. The curd and whey do not -separate so completely; the curd is less firm, and the whey less clear; -the latter being thick and white, instead of thin and greenish, as it -ought to be. Neither is it so light and wholesome as when turned with -rennet. - -Rennets of the best quality can be had at all seasons in the -Philadelphia market; particularly in the lower part, called the Jersey -market. They are sold at twelve, eighteen, or twenty-five cents, -according to their size, and will keep a year or two; but have most -strength when fresh. You may prepare excellent rennets yourself at a -very trifling expense, by previously bespeaking them of a veal butcher; -a rennet being the stomach of a calf. Its form is a bag. As soon as you -get the rennet, empty out all its contents, and wipe it very clean, -inside and out; then rince it with cold water, but do not wash it much, -as washing will weaken its power of turning milk into curd. When you -have made it quite clean, lay the rennet in a broad pan, strew it over -on both sides with plenty of fine salt; cover it, and let it rest five -days. When you take it out of the pan, do not wipe or wash it, for it -must be stretched and dried with the salt on. For this purpose hold it -open like a bag, and slip within it a long, thick, smooth rod, bent into -the form of a large loop wide at the top, and so narrow at the bottom as -to meet together. Stretch the rennet tightly and smoothly over this bent -rod, on which it will be double, and when you have brought the two ends -of the rod together at the bottom, and tied them fast, the form will -somewhat resemble that of a boy's kite. Hang it up in a dry place, and -cut out a bit as you want it. A piece about two inches square will turn -one quart of milk; a piece of four inches, two quarts. Having first -washed off all the salt in several cold waters, and wiped the bit of -rennet dry, pour on it sufficient _lukewarm_ water to cover it well. Let -it stand several hours; then pour the rennet-water into the milk you -intend for the curd, and set it in a warm place. When the curd is -entirely formed, set the vessel on ice. - -Rennet may be used with good effect before it has _quite_ dried. - - -AN EASY WAY OF MAKING BUTTER IN WINTER.--The following will be found an -excellent method of making butter in cold weather for family use. We -recommend its trial. Take, in the morning, the unskimmed milk of the -preceding evening, (after it has stood all night in a _tin_ pan,) and -set it over a furnace of hot coals, or in a stove; being careful not to -disturb the cream that has risen to the surface. Let it remain over the -fire till it simmers, and begins to bubble round the edges; but on no -account let it come to a boil. Then take the pan carefully off, (without -disturbing the cream) and carry it to a cool place, but not where it is -cold enough to freeze. In the evening take a spoon, and loosen the cream -round the sides of the pan. If very rich, it will be almost a solid -cake. Slip off the sheet of cream into another and larger pan, letting -as little milk go with it as possible. Cover it, and set it away. Repeat -the process for several days, till you have thus collected a sufficiency -of clotted cream to fill the pan. Then scald a wooden ladle, and beat -the cream hard with it during ten minutes. You will then have excellent -butter. Take it out of the pan, lay it on a flat dish, and with the -ladle squeeze and press it hard, till all the buttermilk is entirely -extracted and drained off. Then wash the butter in cold water, and work -a very little salt into it. Set it away in a cool place for three hours. -Then squeeze and press it again; also washing it a second time in cold -water. Make it up into pats, and keep it in a cool place. - -The unskimmed morning's milk, of course, may also be used for this -purpose, after it has stood twelve hours. The simmering over the fire -adds greatly to the quantity of cream, by throwing all the oily part of -the milk to the surface; but if allowed to boil, this oleaginous matter -will again descend, and mix with the rest, so as not to be separated. - -This is the usual method of making winter butter in the south of -England; and it is very customary in the British provinces of America. -Try it. - - -SWEET POTATO PONE.--Stir together till very light and white, three -quarters of a pound of fresh butter, and three quarters of a pound of -powdered white sugar, adding two table-spoonfuls of ginger. Grate a -pound and a half of sweet potato. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir -them gradually into the butter and sugar, in turn with the grated sweet -potato. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of saleratus or soda in a jill of sour -milk, and stir it in at the last, beating the whole very hard. Butter -the inside of a tin pan. Put in the mixture, and bake it four hours or -more. It should be eaten fresh, cut into slices. - - -RICE BREAD.--To a pint of well boiled rice add half a pint of wheat -flour, mixing them well together. Take six eggs, and beat the whites and -yolks separately. Having beaten the whites to a stiff froth, mix them -gradually with a pint of rich milk, and two large table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter, softened at the fire. Mix, by degrees, the yolks of the -eggs with the rice and flour. Then add the white-of-egg mixture, a -little at a time. Stir the whole very hard. Put it into a buttered tin -pan with straight or upright sides. Set it in a moderate oven, and bake -it an hour or more. Then turn it out of the pan, put it on a dish, and -send it warm to the breakfast table, and eat it with butter. - -This cake may be baked, by setting the pan that contains it into an iron -dutch-oven, placed over hot coals. Heat the lid of the oven on the -inside, by standing it up before the fire while the rice-bread is -preparing; and, after you put it on, keep the lid covered with hot -coals. - -Rice-bread may be made of ground rice flour, instead of whole rice. - - -RICE FLOUR BREAD.--Sift into a pan a pint and a half of rice flour, and -a pint and a half of fine wheat flour. Add two large table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter or lard, and mix in a pint and a half of milk. Beat four -eggs very light; then stir them gradually into the mixture. When the -whole has been well mixed, add, at the last, a small tea-spoonful of -soda or saleratus, dissolved in as much warm water as will cover it. Put -the whole into a buttered tin pan, set it immediately into a quick oven, -and bake it well. It is best when eaten fresh. Slice and butter it. - - -RICE FLOUR BATTER CAKES.--Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or -lard, in a quart of milk; but be careful not to let it begin to boil. -Divide the milk equally, by putting it into two pans. Beat three eggs -very light, and stir them into one half of the milk with the addition of -a large table-spoonful of wheat flour. Stir in as much ground rice flour -as will make a thick batter. Then put in a _small_ tea-cupful of strong -fresh yeast, and thin the batter with the remainder of the milk. Cover -it, and set it to rise. When it has risen high, and is covered with -bubbles, bake it on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes. Send -them to table hot, and butter them. - -Similar cakes may be made with indian meal instead of rice flour. - - -GROUND-NUT MACAROONS.--Take a sufficiency of ground-nuts, or pea-nuts, -that have been roasted in an iron pot over the fire; remove the shells, -and weigh a pound of the nuts. Put them into a pan of cold water, and -wash off the skins. Have ready some beaten white of egg. Pound the -ground-nuts (two or three at a time,) in a marble mortar, adding -frequently a little cold water to prevent their oiling. They must be -pounded to a smooth light paste; and, as you proceed, remove the paste -to a saucer or a plate. Beat, to a stiff froth, the whites of four eggs, -and then beat into it gradually a pound of powdered loaf sugar, and a -large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg mixed. Then stir in, by -degrees, the pounded ground-nuts, till the mixture becomes very thick. -Flour your hands, and roll between them portions of the mixture, forming -each portion into a little ball. Lay sheets of white paper on flat -baking tins, and place on them the macaroons at equal distances, -flattening them all a little, so as to press down the balls into cakes. -Then sift powdered sugar over each. Place them in a brisk oven, with -more heat at the top than in the bottom. Bake them brown. - -Almond macaroons may be made as above, mixing one quarter of a pound of -shelled bitter almonds, with three quarters of shelled sweet almonds. -For almond macaroons, instead of flouring your hands, you may dip them -in cold water; and when the macaroons are formed on the papers, go -slightly over every one with your fingers wet with cold water. - -Macaroons may be made, also, of grated cocoa-nut mixed with beaten white -of egg and powdered sugar. - - -COLUMBIAN PUDDING.--Tie up closely in a bit of very thin muslin a split -vanilla bean, cut into pieces, and a broken-up stick of cinnamon. Put -this bag, with its contents, into half a pint of rich milk, and boil it -a long time till very highly flavored. Then take out the bag; set the -milk near the fire to keep warm in the pan in which it was boiled, -covering it closely. Slice thin a pound of almond sponge cake, and lay -it in a deep dish. Pour over it a quart of rich cream, with which you -must mix the vanilla-flavored milk, and leave the cake to dissolve in -it. Blanch, in scalding water, two ounces of shelled bitter almonds or -peach kernels, and pound them (one at a time,) to a smooth paste in a -marble mortar, pouring on each a few drops of rose-water or peach-water -to prevent their oiling. When the almonds are done, set them away in a -cold place till wanted. Beat eight eggs till very light and thick; and -having stirred together hard the dissolved cake and the cream, add them -gradually to the mixture in turn with the almond, and half a pound of -powdered loaf sugar, a little at a time of each. Butter a deep dish, -and put in the mixture. Set the pudding into a brisk oven and bake it -well. Have ready a star nicely cut out of a large piece of candied -citron, a number of small stars, all of equal size, as many as there are -States in the Union, and a sufficiency of rays or long strips also cut -out of citron. The rays should be wide at the bottom and run to a point -at the top. As soon as the pudding comes out of the oven, while it is -smoking, arrange these decorations. Put the large star in the centre, -then the rays so that they will diverge from it, narrowing off towards -the edge of the pudding. Near the edge place the small stars in a -circle. - -Preserved citron-melon will be still better for this purpose than the -dry candied citron. - -This is a very fine pudding; suitable for a dinner party, or a Fourth of -July dinner. - - -A WASHINGTON PUDDING.--Pick, and wash clean half a pound of Zante -currants; drain them, and wipe them in a towel, and then spread them out -on a flat dish, and place them before the fire to dry thoroughly. -Prepare about a quarter of a pound or half a pint of finely-grated -bread-crumbs. Have ready a heaping tea-spoonful of powdered mace, -cinnamon, and nutmeg mixed. When the currants are dry, dredge them -thickly on all sides with flour, to prevent their sinking or clodding in -the pudding while baking. Cut up in a deep pan half a pound of the best -fresh butter, and add to it half a pound of fine white sugar, powdered. -Stir the butter and sugar together with a wooden spaddle, till they are -very light and creamy. Then add a table-spoonful of wine, and a -table-spoonful of brandy. Beat in a shallow pan, eight eggs till -perfectly light, and as thick as a good boiled custard. Afterwards, mix -with them, gradually, a pint of rich milk and the grated bread-crumbs, -stirred in alternately. Next, stir this mixture, by degrees, into the -pan of beaten butter and sugar, and add the currants a few at a time. -Finish with a table-spoonful of strong rose-water; or a wine-glass full, -if it is not very strong. Stir the whole very hard. Butter a large deep -white dish, or two of soup-plate size. Put in the batter. Set it -directly into a brisk oven, and bake it well. When cold, dredge the -surface with powdered sugar. Serve it up in the dish in which it was -baked. You may ornament the tops with bits of citron cut into leaves and -forming a wreath; or with circles of preserved strawberries. - -This will be found a very fine pudding. It must be baked in time to -become quite cold before dinner. - -For currants, you may substitute raisins of the best quality; seeded, -cut in half, and well dredged with flour. - -Instead of rose-water you may stir in the yellow rind (finely grated) of -one large lemon, or two small ones, and their juice also. - - -A COTTAGE PUDDING.--Take ripe currants, and having stripped them from -the stalks, measure as many as will make a heaping quart. Cover the -bottom of a deep dish with slices of bread, slightly buttered, and with -the crust cut off. Put a thick layer of currants on the bread, and then -a layer of sugar. Then other layers of bread, currants, and sugar, till -the dish is full; finishing at the top with very thin slices of bread. -Set it into the oven, and bake it half an hour. Serve it either warm or -cold; and eat it with sweetened cream. - -Instead of currants you may take cherries, (first stoning them all,) -raspberries, ripe blackberries, or barberries, plums, (first extracting -the stones,) stewed cranberries, or stewed gooseberries. If the fruit is -previously stewed, the pudding will require but ten minutes' baking. -When it is sent to table, have sugar at hand in case it should not be -sweet enough. - - -ICE-CREAM CAKES.--Stir together, till very light, a quarter of a pound -of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Beat six -eggs very light, and stir into them a half pint of rich milk. Add, -gradually, the eggs and milk to the butter and sugar, alternately with a -half pound of sifted flour. Add a glass of sweet wine and some grated -nutmeg. When all the ingredients are mixed, stir the batter very hard. -Then put it into small deep pans, or cups that have been well buttered, -filling them about two thirds with the batter. Set them immediately into -a brisk oven, and bake them brown. When done, remove them from the cups, -and place them to cool on an inverted sieve. When quite cold make a slit -or incision in the side of each cake. If very light, and properly baked, -they will be hollow in the middle. Fill up this cavity with ice cream, -carefully put in with a spoon, and then close the slit with your fingers -to prevent the cream running out. Spread them on a large dish. Either -send them to table immediately before the ice-cream melts or keep them -on ice till wanted. - - -WHIPPED CREAM MERINGUES.--Take the whites of eight eggs, and beat them -to a stiff froth that will stand alone. Then beat into them, gradually, -(a tea-spoonful at a time,) two pounds or more of finely-powdered loaf -sugar; continuing to add sugar till the mixture is very thick, and -finishing with lemon juice or extract of rose. Have ready some sheets of -white paper laid on a baking board, and with a spoon drop the mixture on -it in long oval heaps, about four inches in length. Smooth and shape -them with a broad-bladed knife, dipped occasionally in cold water. The -baking board used for this purpose should be an inch thick, and must -have a slip of iron beneath each end to elevate it from the floor of the -oven, so that it may not scorch, nor the bottoms of the meringues be -baked too hard. This baking-board must not be of pine wood, as a pine -board will communicate a disagreeable taste of turpentine. The oven must -be moderate. Bake the meringues of a light brown. When cool, take them -off the paper by slipping a knife nicely beneath the bottom of each. -Then push back or scoop out carefully a portion of the inside of each -meringue, taking care not to break them. Have ready some nice whipped -cream, made in the following proportion:--Take a quarter of a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar, and on some of the lumps rub off the yellow rind -of two large lemons. Powder the sugar, and then mix with it the juice of -the lemons, and grate in some nutmeg. Mix the sugar with a half pint of -sweet white wine. Put into a pan a pint of rich cream, and whip it with -rods or a wooden whisk, or mill it with a chocolate mill till it is a -stiff froth. Then mix in, gradually, the other ingredients; continuing -to whip it hard a while after they are all in. As you proceed, lay the -froth on an inverted sieve, with a dish underneath to catch the -droppings; which droppings must afterwards be whipped and added to the -rest. Fill the inside of each meringue with a portion of the whipped -cream. Then put two together, so as to form one long oval cake, joining -them nicely, so as to unite the flat parts that were next the paper, -leaving the inside filled with the whipped cream. Set them again in the -oven for a few minutes. They must be done with great care and nicety, so -as not to break. Each meringue should be about the usual length of a -middle finger. In dropping them on the paper, take care to shape the -oval ends handsomely and smoothly. They should look like very long -kisses. - - -CHOCOLATE PUFFS.--Beat very stiff the whites of three eggs, and then -beat in gradually half a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Scrape down very -fine three ounces of the best chocolate, (prepared cocoa is better -still,) and dredge it with flour to prevent its oiling; mixing the flour -well among it. Then add it gradually to the mixture of white of egg and -sugar, and stir the whole very hard. Cover the bottom of a square tin -pan with a sheet of fine white paper, cut to fit exactly. Place upon it -thin spots of powdered loaf sugar about the size of a half dollar. Pile -a portion of the mixture on each spot, smoothing it with the back of a -spoon or a broad knife, dipped in cold water. Sift white sugar over the -top of each. Set the pan into a brisk oven, and bake them a few minutes. -When cold, loosen them from the paper with a broad knife. - - -COCOA-NUT PUFFS.--Break up a large ripe cocoa-nut. Pare the pieces, and -lay them awhile in cold water. Then wipe them dry, and grate them as -finely as possible. Lay the grated cocoa-nut in well-formed heaps on a -large handsome dish. It will require no cooking. The heaps should be -about the circumference of a half dollar, and must not touch each other. -Flatten them down in the middle, so as to make a hollow in the centre of -each heap; and upon this pile some very nice sweetmeat. Make an -excellent whipped cream, well sweetened and flavored with lemon and -wine, and beat it to a stiff froth. Pile some of this cream high upon -each cake over the sweetmeats. If on a supper-table, you may arrange -them in circles round a glass stand. - - -FIG MARMALADE.--Take fine fresh figs that are perfectly ripe, such as -can only be obtained in countries where they are cultivated in -abundance. Weigh them, and to every two pounds of figs allow a pound and -a half of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of a large orange or lemon. -Cut up the figs, and put them into a preserving kettle with the sugar, -and orange or lemon rind, adding the juice. Boil them till the whole is -reduced to a thick smooth mass, frequently stirring it up from the -bottom. When done, put it warm into jars, and cover it closely. - - -CARRAWAY GINGERBREAD.--Cut up half a pound of fresh butter in a pint of -_West India_ molasses, and warm them together slightly till the butter -is quite soft. Then stir them well, and add gradually a half pound of -good brown sugar, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and two heaped -table-spoonfuls of ground ginger, or three, if the ginger is not very -strong. Sift two pounds or two quarts of flour. Beat four eggs till very -thick and light, and stir them gradually into the mixture, in turn with -the flour, and five or six large table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds, a -little at a time. Dissolve a very small tea-spoonful of pearlash or soda -in as much lukewarm water as will cover it. Then stir it in at the last. -Stir all very hard. Transfer it to a buttered tin pan with straight -sides, and bake it in a loaf in a moderate oven. It will require a great -deal of baking. - - -SEA-VOYAGE GINGERBREAD.--Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and cut up -in it a pound and a quarter of fresh butter; rub the butter well into -the flour, and then mix in a pint of _West India_ molasses and a pound -of the best brown sugar. Beat eight eggs till very light. Stir into the -beaten egg two glasses or a jill of brandy. Add also to the egg a -tea-cupful of ground ginger, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, -with a tea-spoonful of soda melted in a little warm water. Wet the -flour, &c., with this mixture till it becomes a soft dough. Sprinkle a -little flour on your pasteboard, and with a broad knife spread portions -of the mixture thickly and smoothly upon it. The thickness must be equal -all through; therefore spread it carefully and evenly, as the dough will -be too soft to roll out. Then with the edge of a tumbler dipped in -flour, cut it out into round cakes. Have ready square pans, slightly -buttered; lay the cakes in them sufficiently far apart to prevent their -running into each other when baked. Set the pans into a brisk oven, and -bake the cakes well, seeing that they do not burn. - -You may cut them out small with the lid of a cannister (or something -similar) the usual size of gingerbread nuts. - -These cakes will keep during a long voyage, and are frequently carried -to sea. Many persons find highly-spiced gingerbread a preventive to -sea-sickness. - - -EXCELLENT GROUND RICE PUDDING.--Take half a pint from a quart of rich -milk, and boil in it a large handful of bitter almonds or peach kernels, -blanched and broken up; also half a dozen blades of mace, keeping the -sauce-pan closely covered. When the milk is highly flavored and reduced -to one half the quantity, take it off and strain it. Stir, gradually, -into the remaining pint and a half of milk, five heaping table-spoonfuls -of ground rice; set it over the fire in a sauce-pan, and let it come to -a boil. Then take it off, and while it is warm, mix in gradually a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter and a quarter of a pound of white -sugar. Afterwards, beat eight eggs as light as possible, and stir them -gradually into the mixture. Add some grated nutmeg. Stir the whole very -hard; put it into a deep dish, and set it immediately into the oven. -Keep it baking steadily for an hour. It should then be done. Eat it -cool, having sifted sugar over it. - - -CHOCOLATE MACAROONS.--Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, by -scalding them with boiling water, till the skins peel off easily. Then -throw them into a bowl of cold water, and let them stand awhile. Take -them out and wipe them separately. Afterwards set them in a warm place -to dry thoroughly. Put them, one at a time, into a marble mortar, and -pound them to a smooth paste, moistening them, as you proceed, with a -few drops of rose-water to prevent their oiling. When you have pounded -one or two, take them out of the mortar with a tea-spoon, and put them -into a deep plate beside you, and continue removing the almonds to the -plate till they are all done. Scrape down, as fine as possible, half a -pound of the best chocolate, or of Baker's prepared cocoa, and mix it -thoroughly with the pounded almonds. Then set the plate in a cool place. -Put the whites of eight eggs into a shallow pan, and beat them to a -stiff froth that will stand alone. Have ready a pound and a half of -finely-powdered loaf sugar. Stir it hard into the beaten white-of-egg, a -spoonful at a time. Then stir in, gradually, the mixture of almond and -chocolate, and beat the whole very hard. Drop the mixture in equal -portions upon thin white paper, laid on square tin pans; smoothing them -with a spoon into round cakes about the size of a half dollar. Dredge -the top of each lightly with powdered sugar. Set them into a quick -oven, and bake them a light brown. When done, take them off the paper. - - -BREAD FRITTERS.--Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of Zante currants, and -having spread them out on a flat dish, dredge them well with flour. -Grate some bread into a pan, till you have a pint of crumbs. Pour over -the grated bread a pint of boiling milk, into which you have stirred, -(as soon as taken from the fire,) a piece of fresh butter the size of an -egg. Cover the pan and let it stand an hour. Then beat it hard, and add -nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar, stirred in -gradually, and two table-spoonfuls of the best brandy. Beat six eggs -till very light, and then stir them by degrees into the mixture. Lastly, -add the currants a few at a time, and beat the whole very hard. It -should be a thick batter. If you find it too thin, add a little flour. -Have ready, over the fire, a hot frying-pan with boiling lard. Put in -the batter in large spoonfuls, (so as not to touch,) and fry the -fritters a light brown. Drain them on a perforated skimmer, or an -inverted sieve placed in a deep pan, and send them to table hot. Eat -them with wine, and powdered sugar. - - -TO KEEP FRESH BUTTER FOR FRYING STEWING, &c.--Take several pounds of -the _very best_ fresh butter. Cut it up in a large tin sauce-pan, or in -any clean cooking vessel lined with tin. Set it over the fire, and boil -and skim it during half an hour. Then pour it off, carefully, through a -funnel into a stone jar, and cover it closely with a bladder or leather -tied down over the lid. The butter having thus been separated from the -salt and sediment, (which will be found remaining at the bottom of the -boiling vessel,) if kept closely covered and set in a cool place, will -continue good for a month, and be found excellent for frying and -stewing, and other culinary purposes. Prepare it thus in May or June, -and you may use it in winter, if living in a place where fresh butter is -scarce at that season. - - -EXCELLENT MUTTON SOUP.--Having been accidentally omitted in its proper -place, we here insert a receipt for very fine mutton soup. Try it. If -for a large family, take two necks of mutton of the best quality, and -let the butcher disjoint it. To each pound of meat allow a quart of -water. Put it into a soup-pot, with a slice of ham, which will render -the soup sufficiently salt. Boil it slowly, and skim it well, till the -scum ceases to appear. If you have no ham, season the meat, when you -first put it in, with a tea-spoonful of salt. In the mean time prepare -the vegetables, but do not put them in till the meat has boiled to rags, -and all the scum has risen to the surface and been carefully removed. It -is then time to strain out the shreds of meat and bone, return the soup -to the pot, and add the vegetables. First, have ready the deep yellow -_outsides_ of three or four carrots grated, and stir them into the soup -to enrich it, and give it a fine color. Next, add turnips, potatos, -parsnips, salsify, celery, (including its green leaves from the top) and -onions that have been already peeled and boiled by themselves to render -them less strong. All the vegetables should be cut nicely into small -pieces of equal size, (as for Soup a la Julienne.) You may add some -boiled beets, handsomely sliced. And (if approved) strew in at the last -a handful of fresh leaves of the marygold flower, which adds a flavor to -some persons very agreeable. Put all these vegetables gradually into the -soup, (those first that require the longest boiling,) and when they are -all _quite done_ the soup is finished. If well made, with a liberal -allowance of meat and vegetables, and well boiled, it will be much -liked--particularly if served as Julienne soup, for company. - - -NEW ENGLAND CREAM CHEESE.--Take a large pan of rich unskimmed milk that -has set in the dairy all night, and is from pasture-fed cows in the -summer. Have ready a small tea-cup of rennet-water, in which a piece of -rennet, from four to six inches square, has been steeping several hours. -Stir the rennet-water into the pan of milk, and set it in a warm place -till it forms a firm curd. Tie up the curd in a clean linen bag, and -hang it up in the dairy with a pan under it to receive the droppings, -till it drips no longer. Then transfer the curd to a small cheese mould. -Cover it all over with a clean linen cloth, folded over the sides, and -well secured. Put a heavy weight on the top, so as to press it hard. The -wooden vessel in which you mould cream cheeses, should be a bottomless, -broad hoop, about the circumference of a dinner plate. Set it (before -you fill it with the curd) on a very clean table or large flat dish. -Turn it every day for four days, keeping it covered thickly all over -with fresh green grass, frequently renewed. When done, keep it in a dry -cool place, first rubbing the outside with fresh butter. When _once -cut_, use the whole cheese on that day, as it may spoil before the next. -Send it to the tea-table cut across in triangular or pie pieces. - - -MOLASSES CANDY.--Take three quarts of the best _West India_ molasses--no -other will do. Put it into a thick block-tin kettle, (or a _bain-marie_) -and stir in a pound and a half of the best and cleanest brown sugar. -Boil slowly and skim it well, (stirring it always after skimming,) and -taking care that it does not burn. Prepare the grated rind and the juice -of three large lemons or oranges, and stir them in after the molasses -and sugar have boiled long enough to become very thick. Continue to boil -and stir till it will boil no longer, and the spoon will no longer move. -Try some in a saucer, and let it get cold. If it is brittle, it is -done. Then take it from the fire, and transfer it immediately to shallow -square tin pans, that have been well greased with nice fresh butter or -sweet oil. Spread it evenly, and set it to cool. - -While boiling, you may add three or four spoonfuls of shell-barks, -cracked clean from their shells, and divided into halves. Or the same -quantity of roasted pea-nuts or ground-nuts. With both nuts and lemon it -will be very good. - - - - -WORTH KNOWING. - - -THE BEST CEMENT FOR JARS.--Before preserving and pickling time, buy at a -druggist's, two ounces of the clearest and whitest gum tragacanth. -Obtain also two grains of corrosive sublimate, (indispensable to this -cement), and having picked the gum tragacanth clean, and free from dust -and dark or discolored particles, put it with the sublimate into a very -clean yellow or white-ware mug that holds a small quart and has a -close-fitting lid belonging to it. Then fill the vessel more than -two-thirds with very clean water, either warm or cold; and put on the -lid. Let it rest till next morning. Then stir it with an _unpainted_ -stick, that will reach quite down to the bottom. Repeat the stirring -frequently through the day, always replacing the lid. In a few days the -cement will have risen to the top of the mug, and have become a fine, -clear, smooth paste, _far superior to any other_; and, by means of the -corrosive sublimate, it will keep perfectly well to an indefinite -period, if always closely covered, and having no sort of metal dipped -into it. On no account attempt to keep this paste in tin, or even in -silver. Both paste and metal will turn black and become spotted. -Remember this. - -When going to put away your sweetmeats or pickles, this paste will come -into use, and be found invaluable. It is best to keep all these things -in small jars, as opening a large jar frequently, may injure its -contents by letting in the air. In a large family, or where many pickles -are eaten, those in most frequent use may be kept in stone-ware jars, -with a wooden spoon always at hand for taking them out when wanted. On -the surface of every jar of pickles, put one or two table-spoonfuls of -salad oil, and then cover the top of the jar closely with a circular -piece of bladder or thin leather. Next cut out a narrow band of the -same, and cement it on with gum tragacanth paste, (made as above), and -let it remain till you open the jar for use. - -For sweetmeats, have glass or white-ware jars. Lay on the surface of -each a circular paper, cut to fit and dipped in brandy. Next, put on an -outside cover of bladder or thick white paper secured with a band of the -same, coated with tragacanth paste. When this cement is used, the jars -will not be infested with ants or other insects, the corrosive sublimate -keeping them out. - -This paste should be at hand in every library or office, when wanted for -papers or books. It requires no boiling when made, and is always ready, -and never spoils. For a small quantity, take an ounce of the best gum -tragacanth and a grain of corrosive sublimate. Get a covered white or -yellow-ware mug that holds a pint; such a mug will cost but twelve -cents. Dissolve in less than a pint of water. - - -A BAIN-MARIE; OR, DOUBLE KETTLE.--These are most useful and satisfactory -utensils, as all who have tried them can certify. They are to be had of -various sizes at the best household furniture stores, and are made to -order by the chief tinsmiths. The French make great use of the -Bain-Marie; which, in some measure, accounts for the general superiority -of their cookery. - -This utensil, as made in America, is a double kettle of the strongest -and best block-tin. The bottom of the outside kettle is of strong copper -or iron, well tinned, and _kept so_. The food, however, is all contained -in the inner kettle, which is of tin entirely. After the food is in, -(having with it no water whatever), put on the lid tightly, and through -the tube on the outside, pour into the outer kettle the water that is to -cook it. If it boils away too fast, replenish it with more water poured -in at the tube. - -If it boils too slowly, quicken it by adding some salt put in at the -tube. Keep the kettle closely covered, except when removing the lid to -take off the scum; and do this quick and seldom. The superfluous steam -is all the time escaping through the top of the tube and through a very -small hole in the lid. Nothing cooked in this manner (with all the water -outside) can possibly burn or scorch. After every skimming, stir the -stew down to the bottom before you replace the lid. To cook in a -Bain-Marie, requires a strong, steady heat, well kept up; and you must -begin earlier than in the common way of stewing. This is an excellent -vessel for boiling custards, blancmanges, marmalades, and many other -nice things; as a good housewife will soon discover. Also, for making -beef tea and other preparations for invalids. It is well to keep a small -one purposely for a sick room. - -If from deficiency of sugar, or being kept too warm, or not closely -covered, any of your sweetmeats turn sour, do not hastily throw them -away, but carefully remove the surface, (even if coated with blue -mould), add an additional portion of sugar so as to make them very -sweet, and put them into a Bain-Marie. Fill the outer kettle with _hot_ -water, and boil it till you find the preserves restored to their proper -taste. Then put them up again in jars that have been well scalded, -rinsed, and sunned, and lay brandied paper on the surface of each. - -Mouldy pickles may be recovered in a similar manner, adding fresh spices -and vinegar before you put them up again. - -[Illustration: Bain-Marie; or, Double Kettle. (Pronounced _Bine -Maree_.)] - - - - -INDEX. - - - A. - - A-la-mode beef, 150. - - Almond and macaroon custards, 486. - - Almond macaroons, 536. - - Almond pudding, baked, 474. - - Almond pudding, boiled, 475. - - Almond sponge cake, 524. - - Almond soup, 58. - - Apees, 532. - - Apple dumplings, 457. - - Apples, baked whole, 461. - - Apples, bellflower or pippins, 562. - - Apple fritters or quince, 450. - - Apple jelly, 492. - - Apple pies, (fine) 479. - - Apple pork pie, 224. - - Apple sauce, 338. - - Apple sauce, baked, 339. - - Apple pudding, 458. - - Apple water, 591. - - Arrow-root biscuit, 603. - - Artichokes, fried, 363. - - Asparagus, new way, 371 - - Asparagus omelet, 366. - - Asparagus oysters, 372. - - Asparagus soup, 44. - - Autumn soup, 61. - - Aunt Lydia's corn cake, 425. - - - B. - - Bacon, to prepare, 246. - - Bacon, to boil, 247. - - Bacon and beans, 248. - - Bacon, broiled, 249. - - Bacon, stewed, 250. - - Baked fish, 79. - - Baked soup, 76. - - Baked tongue, 171. - - Barley water, 590. - - Bananas, fried, 358. - - Batter pudding, 447. - - Bean soup, 42. - - Beans, (green,) 379. - - Beef-a-la-mode, 151. - - Beef bouilli, 152. - - Beef, corned, 145. - - Beef, corned, fried, 148. - - Beef, (French,) 154. - - Beef, corned, stewed, 153. - - Beef, fresh, stewed, 155. - - Beef, dried and smoked, 148. - - Beefs heart, 161. - - Beef with mushrooms, 160. - - Beef with onions, 157. - - Beef with oysters, 158. - - Beef gumbo, 375. - - Beef patties, 161. - - Beef, spiced, 149. - - Beef with potatoes, 159. - - Beef, fresh, (stewed,) 155. - - Beef, roasted, 138. - - Beef, (smoked,) stewed, 154. - - Beefsteaks, 141. - - Beefsteaks, broiled, 142. - - Beefsteaks, fried, 143. - - Beefsteaks, stewed, 144. - - Beefsteak with oysters, 156. - - Beefsteak pie, 162. - - Beefsteak pot-pie, 164. - - Beefsteak pudding, 166. - - Beefsteaks for invalids, 584. - - Beef tea, 589. - - Beef with tomatos, 156. - - Beets, 387. - - Beets, baked, 388. - - Bell-peppers, pickled, 574. - - Bird dumplings, 305. - - Birds for larding, 305. - - Birds for invalids, 584. - - Birds in a grove, 304. - - Birds with mushrooms, 303. - - Biscuit sandwiches, 245. - - Bologna sausages, 232. - - Borders of paste, 472. - - Boned turkey, 271. - - Blackfish, and sea-bass, 83. - - Blancmange, 497. - - Blancmange, carrageen, 587. - - Blancmange, finest, 499. - - Bran muffins, 615. - - Brandy green gages, 557. - - Brandy peaches, 557. - - Bread, 433. - - Bran bread, 436. - - Bread biscuit, 436. - - Bread cakes, 437. - - Bread, rye, 436. - - Bread, home-made, 433. - - Bread pudding, 454. - - Bread-and-butter pudding, 454. - - Bread, (twist,) 435. - - Buckwheat cakes, 421. - - Brine for pickling meat, 235. - - Broccoli, 359. - - Broccoli and eggs, 361. - - Brown Betty, 455. - - Browning for soups, 312. - - Browned flour, 313. - - Buns, (Spanish,) 525. - - Butter, (clarified,) 310. - - Butter, (melted,) 309. - - Buttered toast, 599. - - Butternuts to pickle, 578. - - - C. - - Cabbage, boiled, 350. - - Cabbage boiled an excellent way, 351. - - Cabbage, forced, 353. - - Cabbage, fried, 352. - - Cabbage soup, 45. - - Cabbage, red, 45. - - Cale cannon, 352. - - Catchup, (mushroom,) 324. - - Catchup, (tomato,) 326. - - Catchup, (walnut,) 325. - - Calf's head, stewed, 205. - - Calf's feet jelly, 491. - - Camp catchup, 328. - - Canvass-back ducks, 281. - - Canvass-backs, broiled, 282. - - Canvass-backs, (stewed,) 282. - - Canvass-backs, (roasted,) 281. - - Carolina punch, 610. - - Carrots, 385. - - Carrot soup, 50. - - Carrots, stewed, 368. - - Carrageen blancmange, 587. - - Cashaw pudding, 478. - - Catfish, fried, 87. - - Cauliflower, boiled, 359. - - Cauliflower, fried, 360. - - Cauliflower macaroni, 360. - - Cauliflower omelet, 359. - - Cauliflowers, pickled, 575. - - Celery, fried, 362. - - Charlotte, (country,) 462. - - Charlotte, plain, 463. - - Charlotte russe, 507. - - Champagne, (pink,) 608. - - Cheese pudding, 481. - - Chestnut soup, 50. - - Chestnut pork, 220. - - Cherry marmalade, 550. - - Cherries, preserved, 563. - - Cherries, pickled, 580. - - Chicken salad, 384. - - Chicken curry, 297. - - Chickens, fricasseed, 289. - - Chickens, stewed whole, 290. - - Chicken broth for the sick, 581. - - Chicken gumbo, 292. - - Chicken-pie, 541. - - Chicken pot-pie, 297. - - Chicken soup, 55. - - Chicken, (tomato,) 294. - - Chicken and turkey patties, 295. - - Chicken rice pudding, 295. - - Chickens, fried, 287. - - Chickens, broiled, 287. - - Chitterlings, 201. - - Chitterlings, baked, 203. - - Chitterlings, fried, 202. - - Chocolate, 597. - - Chocolate caramel, 611. - - Chocolate custards, 484. - - Chocolate macaroons, 536. - - Chowder, fine, 88. - - Chowder, (Yankee,) 88. - - Cinnamon bread, 440. - - Cinnamon cake, 528. - - Citron melons, preserved, 552. - - Clam chowder, 89. - - Clam fritters, 112. - - Clam pie, 121. - - Clams, scolloped, 113. - - Clam soup, 74. - - Clam soup for invalids, 582. - - Cocoa-nut cake, 528. - - Cocoa-nut jumbles, 534. - - Cocoa-nut, (orange,) 504. - - Cocoa-nut pudding, baked, 476. - - Cocoa-nut pudding, boiled, 477. - - Cocoa-nut puffs, 534. - - Cocoa-nut soup, 57. - - Codfish, (stewed,) 103. - - Codfish, (boiled,) 84. - - Codfish, (fried,) 103. - - Codfish, salt, 86. - - Coffee, 596. - - Coloring for sauces, 310. - - Corn cake, (Aunt Lydia's,) 426. - - Corn soup, 38. - - Cottage cheese, 616. - - Country captain, 299. - - Country grapes, 567. - - Country plums, 566. - - Country potatos, 348. - - Crab-apples, preserved, 562. - - Crabs, 136. - - Crabs, (soft,) 122. - - Crab fritters, soft, 113. - - Cranberry sauce, 337. - - Cream cakes, 503. - - Creamed pine-apple, 506. - - Cream and peaches, 506. - - Creamed strawberries, 505. - - Cream tarts, 504. - - Cross buns, 439. - - Crullers, (common,) 444. - - Crullers, (soft,) 442. - - Croquettes, (rice,) 296. - - Cucumbers, (to prepare,) 369. - - Cucumbers, stewed, 370. - - Cucumbers, pickled, 576. - - Cucumber catchup, 327. - - Curry balls, 373. - - Curried eggs, 300. - - Curried chicken, 297. - - Curry powder, 332. - - Curry powder, (Madras,) 333. - - Custards, baked, 460. - - Custard, boiled, 461. - - - D. - - Damson pickles, 580. - - Damson sauce, 342. - - Dressing for slaw, 354. - - Dried apple sauce, 341. - - Dried peach sauce, 341. - - Dried and smoked beef, 148. - - Doughnuts, 443. - - Dumplings, (apple,) 457. - - Dumplings, (peach,) 458. - - Dumplings, (bird,) 305. - - Dumpling, (sausage,) 231. - - Ducks, boiled, 279. - - Ducks, fricasseed, 280. - - Ducks with peas, 280. - - Ducks, roasted, 278. - - Duck soup, 56. - - Ducks, (terrapin,) 283. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) broiled, 282. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) plain, 281. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) roasted, 281. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) stewed, 282. - - - E. - - East indian pickle, 569. - - East India sauce for fish, 331. - - Egg balls, 373. - - Egg-plants, baked, 357. - - Eggs, to beat, 615. - - Eggs, to boil, 612. - - Egg-nogg, 614. - - Egg sauce, 316. - - Eggs, poached, 613. - - Eggs, scrambled, 614. - - Egg wine, 591. - - Ellen Clarke's pudding, 603. - - Epicurean sauce, 331. - - - F. - - Farina, 500. - - Farina blancmange, 588. - - Farina flummery, 589. - - Farina gruel, 589. - - Fast-day soup, 74. - - Farmer's rice, 451. - - Fennel sauce, 319. - - Fig pudding, 617. - - Filet gumbo, 293. - - Fish, to clean, 77. - - Fish, to bake, 79. - - Fish cakes, 82. - - Fish, to boil, 77. - - Fish, to fry, 79. - - Fish, spiced, 81. - - Fish soup, 71. - - Fish, to stew, 81. - - Floating island, 515. - - Florendines, 482. - - Fillet of pork, 225. - - Fillet of veal, 189. - - Fowls, boiled, 285. - - Fowls, pulled, 286. - - Fowls, roasted, 284. - - Fowl and oysters, 291. - - French chicken pie, 291. - - French ham pie, 616. - - French pot-au-feu, 64. - - French sour crout, 354. - - French stew, 158. - - French white soup, 56. - - Friday soup, 75. - - Fried oysters, 110. - - Fritters, 448. - - Fritters, (orange,) 449. - - Fritters, (peach,) 449. - - Fruit charlotte, 483. - - Fruit pies, (common,) 466. - - Fruit pot-pies, 460. - - Fruit in syrups, 552. - - - G. - - Game soup, 68. - - Giblet pie, 277. - - Gingerbread, (Lafayette,) 538. - - Gingernuts, 539. - - Golden cake, 530. - - Gooseberry fool, 463. - - Gooseberries preserved, 565. - - Gooseberry sauce, 339. - - Goose pie, 276. - - Goose, to roast, 274. - - Gravy sippets, 584. - - Gravy, to make, 323. - - Green beans, to boil, 379. - - Green gages, to preserve, 557. - - Green lemons or limes, 555. - - Green Mayonnaise, 330. - - Green peas, to boil, 378. - - Green pea soup, 41. - - Gruel, 586. - - Gumbo, (beef,) 375. - - Gumbo, (filet,) 293. - - Gumbo, (chicken,) 292. - - Gum arabic water, 590. - - - H. - - Halibut, fried, 97. - - Halibut, stewed, 104. - - Hams, to cure, 236. - - Ham, baked, 239. - - Ham, boiled, 238. - - Ham, brine for pickling, 235. - - Ham, broiled, 241. - - Ham, disguised, 243. - - Ham, fried, 242. - - Ham, fried, (nice,) 242. - - Ham cake, 243. - - Ham, (madeira,) 240. - - Ham toast, 173. - - Ham omelet, 244. - - Ham, potted, 246. - - Ham pie, (French,) 616. - - Ham, sliced, 243. - - Hashed cold meat, 193. - - Hare, coated, 264 - - Herb teas, 585. - - Herb candies, 585. - - Hog's head cheese, 234. - - Hominy, 392. - - Horse-radish, 317. - - - I. - - Ice cream, 510. - - Icing, (warm,) 519. - - Icing, 518. - - Ice cream cakes, 632. - - Ice water, (or sherbet,) 513. - - Iced plum pudding, 621. - - Indian corn, to boil, 391. - - Indian mush, 412. - - India pickle, 569. - - Indian pudding, (fine,) 428. - - Italian pork, 226. - - Irish stew, 180. - - - J. - - Jams or marmalade, 546. - - Jam, strawberry, 549. - - Jam, raspberry, 548. - - Jellies, 545. - - Jelly, apple, 492. - - Jelly, calf's feet, 491. - - Jelly cake, 535. - - Jelly, currant, 494. - - Jelly, (or marmalade,) pudding, 480. - - Jelly, orange, 493. - - Jelly, Siberian, 493. - - Jelly, (Wine,) 496. - - Jelly water, 587. - - Jumbles, 534. - - Jumbles, (cocoa-nut,) 534. - - Junket, 450. - - - K. - - Kebobbed mutton, 179. - - Kebobbed veal, 197. - - Kisses, 537. - - Knuckle of veal and bacon, 196. - - - L. - - Lady cake, 526. - - Lady fingers, 524. - - Lafayette gingerbread, 538. - - Lamb, 181. - - Lamb, larded, 186. - - Larded tongue, 172. - - Lamb chops, stewed, 185. - - Lamb cutlets, 184. - - Lamb pie, 187. - - Lamb, roast, 182. - - Lamb steaks, 183. - - Lard, to prepare, 250. - - Larded liver, 199. - - Lemon cakes, 522. - - Lemon catchup, 327. - - Lemon custards, 485. - - Lemon pudding, 473. - - Lemon bread pudding, 468. - - Lemons or limes, to preserve green, 555. - - Lemon syrups, 513. - - Lemon taffy, 506. - - Lemons or oranges, preserved, 554. - - Lettuce peas, 367. - - Lettuce peas, plain, 368. - - Lima beans, 380. - - Liver, fried, 198. - - Liver pie, 201. - - Liver pudding, 234. - - Liver rissoles, 200. - - Liver, stewed, 200. - - Lobsters, 132. - - Lobster pudding, 136. - - Lobster salad, (plain,) 133. - - Lobster sauce, 137. - - Lobster rissoles, 135. - - Lobster salad, (fine,) 134. - - Lobster soup, 71. - - - M. - - Macaroni, 600. - - Macaroni, (sweet,) 601. - - Macaroons, (almond,) 536. - - Macaroons, (ground-nut,) 628. - - Macaroons, (chocolate,) 536. - - Mackerel, broiled, 96. - - Mackerel, fried, 97. - - Madras curry powder, 333. - - Mangoes, (peach,) 571. - - Mangoes, (melon,) 572. - - Marmalade meringues, 533. - - Marmalade, (grape,) 550. - - Marmalade, (cherry,) 550. - - Marmalade, (orange,) 550. - - Marmalade, (peach,) 546. - - Marmalade, (plum,) 548. - - Marmalade, (pumpkin,) 547. - - Marmalade, (quince,) 546. - - Marmalade, (pine-apple,) 549. - - Marmalade, (tomato,) 547. - - Maryland biscuit, 432. - - Marrow pudding, 501. - - Mayonnaise, (green,) 330. - - Melongina or Egg-plant, 356. - - Meringue pudding, 479. - - Meringues, (whipped cream,) 633. - - Meat pies, 163. - - Milk biscuit, 437. - - Milk pottage, 451. - - Milk toast, 598. - - Mince pies, 488. - - Mint julep, 610. - - Mint sauce, 317. - - Mock turtle soup, 69. - - Molasses pie, 446. - - Molasses pot-pie, 447. - - Molasses pudding, 444. - - Molasses supper, 594. - - Muffins, (soft,) 429. - - Mush, 412. - - Mushrooms with beef, 160. - - Mushrooms, baked, 391. - - Mushroom catchup, 324. - - Mushroom omelet, 364. - - Mushroom sauce, 321. - - Mushrooms, pickled, 572. - - Mushrooms, stewed, 390. - - Mustard, (French,) 329. - - Mutton, 173. - - Mutton broth for invalids, 583. - - Mutton, (boiled leg of,) 175. - - Mutton, (boiled loin of,) 174. - - Mutton chops, (broiled,) 177. - - Mutton steaks, (fried,) 178. - - Mutton chops with potatos, 179. - - Mutton chops with tomatos, 178. - - Mutton, (boiled,) (sauce for,) 175. - - Mutton steaks, (stewed,) 176. - - Mutton, kebobbed, 179. - - - N. - - Nasturtions, pickled, 581. - - Nectar, 611. - - Noodle soup, 54. - - New Year's cake, 605. - - - O. - - Ochras, to boil, 375. - - Ochras, dried, 374. - - Omelet, (common,) 601. - - Omelet souffle, 501. - - Omelet of sweetbreads, 213. - - Onion custard, 358. - - Onions, 376. - - Onion eggs, 373. - - Onions, pickled, 577. - - Onion sauce, (fine,) 320. - - Onion sauce, (plain,) 321. - - Onions, (to roast,) 376. - - Onions, (to stew,) 376. - - Onion soup, 47. - - Ontario cake, 604. - - Orange cake, 522. - - Orange or lemon custards, 484. - - Orange cocoa-nut, 504. - - Orange fritters, 449. - - Orange jelly, 493. - - Orange marmalade, 550. - - Orange milk, 551. - - Orange pudding, baked, 476. - - Orange pudding, boiled, 476. - - Oranges (or lemons,) preserved, 554. - - Orange or lemon syrup, 513. - - Oysters, broiled, 119. - - Oysters, to choose, 108. - - Oysters, to feed, 108. - - Oysters, fried, 110. - - Oyster fritters, 111. - - Oysters, (French,) 110. - - Oyster loaves, 117. - - Oyster omelet, 118. - - Oyster patties, 117. - - Oysters, pickled, 115. - - Oysters, pickled for keeping, 116. - - Oyster pie, 120. - - Oysters, roasted, 114. - - Oysters, scolloped, 114. - - Oysters, raw, for the sick, 584. - - Oyster soup, 73. - - Oyster soup, for invalids, 582. - - Oysters, stewed, 109. - - - P. - - Panada, (chicken,) 589. - - Panada, (sweet,) 590. - - Pancakes, 450. - - Parsley, crimped, 319. - - Parsley sauce, 318. - - Parsnips, baked, 387. - - Parsnips, boiled, 386. - - Parsnips, fried, 386. - - Parsnip fritters, 387. - - Parsnip soup, 49. - - Partridges, (pear fashion,) 301. - - Partridges, roasted, 302. - - Partridge, plain, 302. - - Paste, (excellent plain,) 467. - - Paste, (potato,) 464. - - Paste puff, (the best,) 469. - - Paste borders, 472. - - Peas, to boil, 377. - - Peas, stewed, 377. - - Pea soup, (green,) 41. - - Pea soup, (split,) 43. - - Peas with lettuce, 367. - - Peas, plain lettuce, 368. - - Peaches and cream, 506. - - Peach dumplings, 458. - - Peach mangoes, 571. - - Peach marmalade, 546. - - Peaches, (brandied,) 557. - - Peaches, pickled, 570. - - Peaches, preserved, 556. - - Pears, baked, 462. - - Pepper-pot, 53. - - Peppers, (bell,) pickled, 574. - - Persimmon jam, 567. - - Pheasants, roasted, 302. - - Pickles, 568. - - Pickled beets with cabbage, 575. - - Pickled bell-peppers, 574. - - Pickled button tomatos, 581. - - Pickled butternuts, 578. - - Pickled cauliflowers, 575. - - Pickled cherries, 580. - - Pickled cucumbers, 576. - - Pickled cucumbers with onions, 578. - - Pickled damsons, 580. - - Pickles, East India, 569. - - Pickled melon mangoes, 572. - - Pickled mushrooms, 572. - - Pickled nasturtions, 581. - - Pickled onions, 577. - - Pickled peaches, 570. - - Pickled peach mangoes, 571. - - Pickled plums, 579. - - Pickled shrimps, 314. - - Pickled walnuts, 578. - - Pie, (crust,) very plain, 464. - - Pigeon pie, 540. - - Pigeons, roasted, 308. - - Pig, to dress, 220. - - Pig's feet, fried, 227. - - Pine-apple marmalade, 549. - - Pine-apples, preserved, 553. - - Pine-apple tart, 478. - - Pink champagne, 608. - - Pink sauce, 334. - - Planked shad, 106. - - Plovers, roasted, 307. - - Plum cake, 516. - - Plums, preserved, 557. - - Plums, pickled, 579. - - Plum pudding, (plain,) 468. - - Plum pudding, (fine,) 486. - - Poke plant, 618. - - Pot-au-feu, (French,) 64. - - Pot-pies, 165. - - Pot-pie, (terrapin,) 125. - - Pumpkin, stewed, 389. - - Pork, 216. - - Pork and apples, 222. - - Pork and beans, 228. - - Pork with corn and beans, 229. - - Pork with pea pudding, 230. - - Pork, (Italian,) 226. - - Pork, fillet, 225. - - Pork olives, 227. - - Pork pie, (apple,) 224. - - Pork, (apple pot-pie,) 223. - - Pork, to roast, 218. - - Pork spare-ribs, roasted, 220. - - Pork steaks, stewed, 222. - - Pork steaks, fried, 223. - - Pork, (sweet potato,) 219. - - Portable soup, 51. - - Potatos, boiled, 345. - - Potatos, roasted, 346. - - Potatos, baked, 347. - - Potato cakes, 348. - - Potatos, (country,) 348. - - Potatos, fried, 348. - - Potatos, (new,) 347. - - Potatos, mashed, 347. - - Potato paste, 464. - - Potato pudding, (plain,) 602. - - Potatos, stewed, 349. - - Potato beef, 159. - - Potato mutton chops, 179. - - Potato soup, 50. - - Pot-pie, (beefsteak,) 164. - - Pot-pie, (chicken,) 297. - - Poultry and game, 265. - - Pound cake, 520. - - Pudding, (almond,) baked, 474. - - Pudding, (almond,) boiled, 475. - - Pudding, (apple,) 458. - - Pudding, (batter,) 447. - - Pudding, (bread,) 454. - - Pudding, bread and butter, 454. - - Pudding, Brown Betty, 455. - - Pudding, (cashaw,) 478. - - Pudding, (cheese,) 481. - - Pudding, (cocoa-nut,) 476. - - Pudding, (cocoa-nut,) boiled, 477. - - Pudding, (cottage,) 632. - - Pudding, iced plum, 621. - - Pudding, (Columbian,) 629. - - Pudding, (Ellen Clarke's,) 603. - - Pudding, lemon bread, 468. - - Pudding, marrow, 501. - - Pudding, plum, 486. - - Pudding, plum, (plain,) 468. - - Pudding, molasses, 444. - - Pudding, rice, (baked,) 452. - - Pudding, rice, (boiled,) 453. - - Pudding, orange, 476. - - Pudding, lemon or orange, (boiled,) 476. - - Pudding, sweet potato, 477. - - Pudding, white potato, 478. - - Pudding, meringue, 479. - - Pudding, marmalade or jelly, 480. - - Pudding, pumpkin, (fine,) 478. - - Pudding, pumpkin, (Yankee,) 390. - - Pudding, rolled, 459. - - Pumpkin, stewed, 389. - - - Q. - - Quails, roasted, 302. - - Queen cake, 522. - - Quince marmalade, 546. - - Quince pies, 478. - - Quinces, preserved, 560. - - - R. - - Rabbits, 259. - - Rabbits, coated, 264. - - Rabbits, fricasseed, 263. - - Rabbits with onions, 261. - - Rabbit pot-pie, 262. - - Rabbits, pulled, 263. - - Rabbits, roasted, 260. - - Raspberry jam, 548. - - Raspberries, preserved, 566. - - Raspberry vinegar, 599. - - Rhubarb tarts, 618. - - Rice cups, 453. - - Rice pie, 298. - - Rice pudding, baked, 452. - - Rice pudding, boiled, 453. - - Rennets, 622. - - Ripe peach sauce, 340. - - Rissole patties, 198. - - Rockfish, 82. - - Reed birds, 308. - - Rolls, 435. - - Rolled pudding, 459. - - Roman punch, 514. - - Rusk, 438. - - Rusks, (dry,) 439. - - - S. - - Sage and onion sauce, 319. - - Sago, 592. - - Sago pudding, 593. - - Salad, (chicken,) 384. - - Sally Lunn, 430. - - Salsify fritters, 355. - - Salsify oysters, 356. - - Salmi of partridges, 302. - - Salmon, 90. - - Salmon, baked, 93. - - Salmon, boiled, 91. - - Salmon, broiled, 94. - - Salmon cutlets, 94. - - Salmon, pickled, 95. - - Salmon, roasted, 93. - - Salmon trout, 101. - - Sandwiches, 173. - - Sausages, (Bologna,) 232. - - Sausage meat, 231. - - Sausage dumplings, 231. - - Sauce, apple, 338. - - Sauce, apple, baked, 339. - - Sauce, apple, dried, 341. - - Sauce, dried peach, 341. - - Sauce, (broccoli,) 318. - - Sauce, (cauliflower,) 318. - - Sauce, chestnut, 343. - - Sauce, (celery,) 316. - - Sauce, (clam,) 315. - - Sauce, (cranberry,) 337. - - Sauce, (damson,) 342. - - Sauce, (egg,) 316. - - Sauce, (fennel,) 319. - - Sauce, (gooseberry,) 339. - - Sauce, (lobster,) 137, 313. - - Sauce, mint, 317. - - Sauce, mushroom, 321. - - Sauce, (nasturtion,) 321. - - Sauce, (onion,) plain, 321. - - Sauce, (onion,) fine, 320. - - Sauce, (onion and sage,) 319. - - Sauce, (oyster,) 315. - - Sauce, (parsley,) 318. - - Sauce, pea-nut, 343. - - Sauce, (peach,) ripe, 340. - - Sauce, (prune,) 342. - - Sauce, (pink,) 334. - - Sauce, (pudding,) fine, 335. - - Sauce, (pudding,) plain, 336. - - Sauce, Robert, 330. - - Sauce, (shrimp,) 314. - - Sauce, (vanilla,) 336. - - Sauce, (wine,) 334. - - Sausage dumplings, 231. - - Sausage and veal pie, 232. - - Scolloped tomatos, 365. - - Scotch cake, 535. - - Seabass with tomatos, 101. - - Sea-coast pie, 127. - - Shad, to keep without corning, 105. - - Shad, planked, 106. - - Shells, 471. - - Sherry cobbler, 609. - - Short cake, 427. - - Shrimps, 137. - - Siberian jelly, 493. - - Silver cake, 531. - - Smelts, fried, 86. - - Smelts for invalids, 594. - - Soft crabs, 122. - - Soft crullers, 442. - - Soft muffins, 429. - - Souffle, (omelet,) 501. - - Soups, 33. - - Soup, almond, 58. - - Soup, asparagus, 44. - - Soup, autumn, 61. - - Soup, baked, 76. - - Soup, bean, 42. - - Soup, (cabbage,) 45. - - Soup, red cabbage, 45. - - Soup, fine cabbage, 46. - - Soup, cauliflower, 47. - - Soup, clam, 74. - - Soup, cocoa-nut, 57. - - Soup, crab, 72. - - Soup, corn, 38. - - Soup, carrot, 50. - - Soup, chestnut, 50. - - Soup, chicken, 55. - - Soup, duck, 56. - - Soup, fast-day, 74. - - Soup, fish, 71. - - Soup, French white, 56. - - Soup, Friday, 75. - - Soup, game, 68. - - Soup, green peas, 41. - - Soup, lobster, 71. - - Soup, mock turtle, 69. - - Soup, mushroom, 37. - - Soup, noodle, 54. - - Soup, onion, 47. - - Soup, oyster, 73. - - Soup, parsnip, 49. - - Soup, pea, green, 41. - - Soup, peas, split, 43. - - Soup, pepper-pot, 53. - - Soup, portable, 51. - - Soup, pot-au-feu, 64. - - Soup, potato, 50. - - Soup, spring, 59. - - Soup, summer, 60. - - Soup, squatters, 68. - - Soup, tomato, 39. - - Soup, family tomato, 40. - - Soup, fine tomato, 40. - - Soup, turnip, 48. - - Soup, vegetable, 63. - - Soup, venison, 39. - - Soup, winter, 62. - - Soup, wild duck, 66. - - Southern stew, 196. - - Sour crout, (French,) 354. - - Souffle pudding, 620. - - Spanish buns, 525. - - Spinach, 369. - - Sponge cake, 523. - - Squashes or cymlings, 388. - - Stewed smoked beef, 149. - - Stewed calf's head, 205. - - Stewed peas, 366. - - Stewed pumpkin, 389. - - Store sauces, 333. - - Strawberry jam, 549. - - Strawberries, preserved, 563. - - Strawberries in wine, 564. - - Strawberry wine, 564. - - Sweetbreads, baked, 215. - - Sweetbread croquettes, 210. - - Sweetbreads, fricasseed, 210. - - Sweetbreads with cauliflower, 212. - - Sweetbread omelet, 213. - - Sweetbreads with oysters, 214. - - Sweetbreads, to prepare, 209. - - Sweetbreads for invalids, 593. - - Sweetbread pies, 214. - - Sweetbreads, stewed, 214. - - Sweetbreads with tomatos, 211. - - Sweetmeats, 543. - - Sweet potatos, boiled, 380. - - Sweet potatos, baked, 381. - - Sweet potatos, mashed, 381. - - Sweet potatos, stewed, 381. - - Sweet potato pudding, 477. - - Sweet potato cake, 529. - - Sweet potatos, sweetened, 455. - - Sunderlands, 503. - - Sydney Smith's salad dressing, 382. - - - T. - - Taffy, (lemon,) 506. - - Tamarind-water, 591. - - Tapioca, 592. - - Tarragon sauce, 323. - - Tarragon vinegar, 328. - - Tea, 595. - - Thatched house pie, 304. - - Terrapins, 122. - - Terrapins, dressed a new way, 124. - - Terrapin pot-pie, 125. - - Toast and water, 586. - - Toast, buttered, 599. - - Toast, (milk,) 598. - - Tomato catchup, 326. - - Tomato paste, 374. - - Tomatos, pickled, 581. - - Tomatos, preserved green, 559. - - Tomatos, preserved, 558. - - Tomatos with sea-bass, 101. - - Tomato soup, 39. - - Tomato soup, (fine,) 40. - - Tomato soup, (family,) 40. - - Tomato sweetbreads, 211. - - Tongues, 170. - - Tongue, baked, 171. - - Tongue, larded, 172. - - Tongue toast, 172. - - Trifle, 496. - - Tripe, to boil, 167. - - Tripe, to fry, 169. - - Tripe curry, 168. - - Trout, 84. - - Trout, baked, 85. - - Trout, stewed, 85. - - Trout with cream, 102. - - Turbot, baked, 100. - - Turbot, boiled, 99. - - Turkey, boiled, 267. - - Turkey, roasted, 270. - - Turkey with oysters, 269. - - Turkey, boned, 271. - - Turnips, boiled, 382. - - Turnip soup, 48. - - Turtle, to dress, 128. - - Turtle pastry, 131. - - - V. - - Vanilla custards, 484. - - Vanilla sauce, 336. - - Vanilla syrup, 513. - - Veal, 188. - - Veal a-la-mode, 191. - - Veal and bacon, 196. - - Veal broth for the sick, 583. - - Veal cutlets, 195. - - Veal cutlets, in papers, 194. - - Veal fillet, 189. - - Veal fritters, 197. - - Veal kebobbed, 197. - - Veal, (knuckle,) with bacon, 196. - - Veal, hashed, 190. - - Veal loaf, 204. - - Veal, minced, 205. - - Veal pie, 204. - - Veal olives, 207. - - Veal with oysters, 206. - - Veal rissoles, 208. - - Veal steaks, 195. - - Veal and sausage pie, 232. - - Veal, (loin of,) roast, 189. - - Veal, southern stew, 196. - - Veal, (terrapin,) 192. - - Vegetables, 343. - - Vegetable soup, 63. - - Venison, 252. - - Venison ham, 259. - - Venison, hashed, 255. - - Venison pie, (fine,) 255. - - Venison pie, (plain,) 257. - - Venison pot-pie, 258. - - Venison steaks, (broiled,) 253. - - Venison, stewed, 254. - - Venison haunch, (roasted,) 253. - - Venison soup, 39. - - Vinegar, 607. - - Vinegar, (raspberry,) 599. - - Vol-au-vent, 619. - - Vol-au-vent, (sweet,) 620. - - - W. - - Waffles, 441. - - Walnut catchup, 325. - - Walnuts, pickled, 578. - - Washington pudding, 630. - - Warm icing, 519. - - West India cake, 529. - - Whey, 591. - - White thickening, 311. - - White potato pudding, 478. - - Wine jelly, 496. - - Wine sauce, 334. - - Wine, (strawberry,) 564. - - Winter butter, (to make,) 624. - - Winter soup, 62. - - Woodcocks or snipes, to roast, 306. - - - Y. - - Yankee chowder, 88. - - Yankee pumpkin pudding, 390. - - Yeast, (good,) 605. - - Yeast powders, 606. - - -THE END. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Notes - - Some minor obvious typographical errors have been corrected - silently. - - Footnotes have been moved to underneath the paragraph they refer - to so as to not disrupt the flow of the text. - - Missing page numbers are attributed to blank pages in the - original text. - - -Corrections made: - - Pg. 20: "From the Pennslyvania [replaced with Pennsylvania]" - - Pg. 65: "his excellent pot a [replaced with "au"] feu" - - Pg. 146: "aid [replaced with "laid"] it a while in cold" - - Pg. 201: "for any thing that has ham [added "in"] it," - - Pg. 202: "Taragon [replaced with "Tarragon"] vinegar is best." - - Pg. 293: "a dish of beiled [replaced with "boiled"] rice to be - eaten" - - Pg. 338: "looks very meanly--and thstes [replaced with "tastes"] - so." - - Pg. 348: "beat them with a wooden spoon to reder [replaced with - "render"] them very light." - - Pg. 464: "If you have a coo [last letter cut off, replaced with - "cool"] hand," - - Pg. 493: "loosened by wrapping round their ousides [replaced - with "outsides"] cloths" - - Pg. 496: "either port, madeira, or chamaigne [replaced with - "champagne"]" - - Pg. 496: "except as some exhiliration [replaced with - "exhilaration"]" - - Pg. 536: "Ground-nut macaroon [replaced with "macaroons"] are made - in the same manner." - - Pg. 563: "stirring down to the bottom after evey [replaced with - "every"] skimming," - - Pg. 575: "Brocoli [replaced with "Broccoli"] is done in the same - manner" - - Pg. 583: "as soon as it simmers, [deleted comma] well [added - comma] take it off" - - Pg. 620: "beat and stir the soaked rusk very had [replaced with - "hard"]" - - Marjoram, marjoran (Pg. 357) and majoram (Pp. 90, 95, 602) are - used in the text, these have all been standardised to "marjoram" - as it was used in the majority. - - -The following index entries were corrected (corrections listed below in -square brackets): - - Almond and macaroon custards, 484 [486] - Almond soup, 53 [58] - Arrow-root biscuit, 303. [603] - Beef, corned, fried, 143. [148] - Bird dumplings, 505. [305] - Birds for invalids, 384. [584] - Boned turkey, 279. [271] - Cheese pudding, 431. [481] - Chocolate, 527. [597] - Cinnamon cake, 440. [528] - Crab fritters, soft, 213. [113] - Crullers, (soft,) 422. [442] - Curry balls, 273. [373] - Doughnuts, 442. [443] - Eggs, scrambled, 612. [614] - Ellen Clarke's pudding, 303. [603] - Farino [Farina] flummery, 589. - French ham pie, 516. [616] - Gravy sippets, 584. [put in correct alphabetical order] - Gravy, to make, 223. [323] - Halibut, fried, 98. [97] - Ham, broiled, 243. [241] - Ice water, (or sherbet,) 523. [513] - Indian corn, to boil, 321. [391] - India pickle, 269. [569] - Indian pudding, (fine,) 428. [incorrect page number, unable to - locate] - Jam, raspberry, 549. [548] - Jelly, (or marmalade,) pudding, 431. [480] - Lamb pie, 189. [187] - Lemon custards, 484. [485] - Lemon syrups, 522. [513] - Meringue pudding, 480. [479] - Mint julep, 608. [610] - Mutton chops, (broiled,) 171. [177] - Orange or lemon syrup, 523. [513] - Pea soup, (green,) 42. [41] - Pork with pea pudding, 280. [230] - Pork steaks, fried, 228. [223] - Pudding, (apple,) 558. [458] - Pudding, (cottage,) 582. [632] - Pudding, (Ellen Clarke's,) 303. [603] - Pudding, lemon or orange, (boiled,) 426. [476] - Pudding, meringue, 480. [479] - Pudding, plum, (plain,) 469. [468] - Pudding, white potato, 476. [478] - Pudding, marmalade or jelly, 431. [480] - Quince pies, 479. [478] - Raspberry vinegar, 509. [599] - Rice pudding, baked, 442. [452] - Rice pudding, boiled, 443. [453] - Rissole patties, 198. [incorrect page number, unable to locate] - Sauce, chestnut, 348. [343] - Sauce, (gooseberry,) 389. [339] - Sauce, (lobster,) 187 [137], 313. - Sauce, pea-nut, 348. [343] - Sausage and veal pie, 282. [232] - Souffle, (omelet,) 591. [501] - Soup, red cabbage, 46. [45] - Soup, corn, 88. [38] - Soup, oyster, 78. [73] - Soup, pea, green, 42. [41] - Soup, peas, split, 48. [43] - Soup, pepper-pot, 58. [53] - Soup, vegetable, 68. [63] - Stewed smoked beef, 145. [149] - Stewed calf's head, 206. [205] - Sweetbreads for invalids, 598. [593] - Sweet potatos, stewed, 358. [381] - Sweet potato cake, 528. [529] - Tarragon sauce, 223. [323] - Tomatos, pickled, 211. [581] - Tomatos with sea-bass, 365. [101] - Tomato soup, 89. [39] - Tongue toast, 178. [172] - Turtle, to dress, 628. [128] - Vanilla custards, 485. [484] - Vanilla syrup, 523. [513] - Vinegar, (raspberry,) 509. [599] - White potato pudding, 78. [478] - Yankee pumpkin pudding, [390]. - - -Not changed: - - Some entries in the index are not in alphabetical order. - - Inconsistencies in word hyphenation, for example: backbone and - back-bone, table-spoonful and tablespoonful. - - Inconsistencies in section title punctuation. - - All French spelling. - - Pg. 574: "Your may green bell-peppers in the usual way, with - vine leaves or cabbage leaves." [unsure as to the true meaning] - - -Variant spellings left unchanged: - - canvas-back, canvass-back - Ellen Clarke's pudding, Ellen Clark's pudding - inclose, enclose - Indian meal, indian meal - macaroni, maccaroni - marigold, marygold - panada, panade - potato, potatoe - rince, rinse - trevet, trivet - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, by Eliza Leslie - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - -***** This file should be named 40943.txt or 40943.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/9/4/40943/ - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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