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diff --git a/old/40943.txt b/old/40943.txt deleted file mode 100644 index ec2e76e..0000000 --- a/old/40943.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,18215 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, by Eliza Leslie - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book - -Author: Eliza Leslie - -Release Date: October 5, 2012 [EBook #40943] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - - - - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY BOOK. - - One Volume, 652 pages, bound. Price $1.25. - - -T. B. Peterson, No. 102 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, has just -published MISS LESLIE'S "NEW COOKERY BOOK." It comprises new and -approved methods of preparing all kinds of Soups, Fish, Oysters, Beef, -Mutton, Veal, Pork, Venison, Ham and Bacon, Poultry and Game, Terrapins, -Turtle, Vegetables, Sauces, Bread, Pickles, Sweetmeats, Plain Cakes, -Fine Cakes, Pies, Plain Desserts, Fine Desserts, Preparations for the -Sick, Puddings, Confectionery, Rice, Indian Meal Preparations of all -kinds, Miscellaneous Receipts, etc. etc. Also, lists of all articles in -season suited to go together for breakfasts, dinners, and suppers, to -suit large or small families, and much useful information and many -miscellaneous subjects connected with general housewifery. - -This work will have a very extensive sale, and many thousand copies will -be sold, as all persons that have had Miss Leslie's former works, should -get this at once, as _all the receipts in this book are new_, and have -been fully tried and tested by the author since the publication of her -former books, _and none of them whatever are contained in any other work -but this_. It is the most complete Cook Book published in the world; and -also the latest and best, as in addition to Cookery of all kinds and -descriptions, its receipts for making cakes and confectionery are -unequalled by any other work extant. - -This new, excellent, and valuable Cook Book is published by T. B. -Peterson, under the title of "MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK," and is -entirely different from any other work on similar subjects, under any -other names, by the same author. It is an elegantly printed duodecimo -volume, of 652 pages; and in it there will be found _hundreds of -Receipts_--all useful--some ornamental--and all invaluable to every -lady, miss, or family in the world. - - -Read what the Editors of the Leading Newspapers say of it. - -_From the Philadelphia Dollar Newspaper._ - - "This is a large, well-bound volume of near seven hundred - pages, and includes in it hundreds of receipts never before - published in any of Miss Leslie's other works, accompanied by a - well-arranged index, by which any desired receipt may be turned - to at once. The receipts are for cooking all kinds of meats, - poultry, game, pies, &c., with directions for confectionery, - ices, and preserves. It is entirely different from any former - work by Miss Leslie, and contains new and fresh accessions of - useful knowledge. The merit of these receipts is, that they - have all been tried, and therefore can be recommended - conscientiously. Miss Leslie has acquired great reputation - among housekeepers for the excellence of her works on cookery, - and this volume will doubtless enhance it. _It is the best book - on cookery that we know of_, and while it will be useful to - matrons, to young housewives we should think it quite - indispensable. By the aid of this book, the young and - inexperienced are brought nearly on a footing with those who - have seen service in the culinary department, and by having it - at hand are rendered tolerably independent of _help_, which - sometimes becomes very refractory. The best regulated families - are sometimes taken a little by surprise by the untimely - stepping in of a friend to dinner--to such, Miss Leslie is the - friend indeed, ready as her book is with instructions for the - hasty production of various substitutes for meals requiring - timely and elaborate preparation." - - -_From the Philadelphia Daily News._ - - "To the housekeeper, the name of Miss Leslie is a guaranty that - what comes from her hand is not only orthodox, but good; and to - the young wife about to enter upon the untried scenes of - catering for a family, _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_ may be - termed a blessing. It presents receipts, (and practical ones - too,) for preparing and cooking all kinds of soups, fish, - oysters, meats, game, cakes, pastry, and indeed everything - which enters into the economy of housekeeping. Their - recommendations are that they are all practical, and the novice - of the culinary art may enter upon her important duties with - '_Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_' by her side, with perfect - confidence that the 'soup' will not be spoiled, and that the - dinner will be what is designed. How many disappointments could - be avoided, how many domestic difficulties prevented, and how - many husbands made happy, instead of miserable, by the use of - this '_vade mecum_,' we shall not pretend to say; but as we - have a sincere regard for every lady who reads the _News_, our - advice to them all is, by all means to buy _Miss Leslie's New - Cookery Book_. Mr. Peterson has done admirably in getting up - this work: it is handsomely and substantially bound in cloth, - gilt, and does credit to his business skill; the low price at - which the work is sold, when we take the size of it into - consideration, One Dollar and Twenty-five cents only, will - doubtless give it an immense sale." - - -_From the Philadelphia Saturday Courier._ - - "With such a book as _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_, - published by Mr. Peterson, it is inconceivable what a vast - extent of palate is destined to be astonished, and what a - gastronomic multitude is to be made happy, by the delicious - delicacies and substantial dishes so abundantly provided. Miss - Leslie has in previous works shown how great an adept she has - been in all culinary matters, and in all that relates to the - comforts and the social enjoyment of the table around which - cluster the good things of life. Literature is very good in its - way; but such dishes as Miss Leslie gives a foretaste of, come - up to a more delicious standard. Her authorship is exquisite, - and is destined to diffuse the very essence of good taste among - the fortunate people who sit down to good dinners and suppers, - not one of whom will rise from the table without a blessing on - _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_. And every taste is sure to be - pleased, for all the receipts in this book are new, and to be - found nowhere else, _and it is the best Cook Book ever - published_--one which, with its hundreds of receipts, ought to - be in the hands of every woman who has the slightest - appreciation of convenience, comfort and economy." - - -_From the Philadelphia Daily Sun._ - - "About one thousand new receipts, never before printed, appear - in this work, all of which have been tried before they are - recommended by the author. All kinds of cooking and pastry; - rules for the preparation of dinners, breakfasts, and suppers; - appropriate dishes for every meal; and a vast quantity of other - useful information, are embraced in the book. It is very - comprehensive, and is furnished with an index for the use of - the housewife. By the aid of Miss Leslie's peculiar happy - talent in giving culinary directions, our girls can acquire a - branch of useful information which is generally sadly neglected - in their education, and thus become fitted for their duties as - wives. One great advantage in _Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_, - is the economy which it teaches in the management of a - household, as regards the preparations for the table. Peterson - has done this book up in beautiful style, and it will be sent - to any part of the Union, postage paid, upon the receipt of One - Dollar and Twenty-five Cents. Those who know how much of the - happiness of home depends upon well-cooked viands, neatly - served up, will thank the accomplished authoress for this - valuable contribution to domestic science." - - -_From the Philadelphia Saturday Evening Gazette._ - - "Miss Leslie's 'New Receipts for Cooking' is perhaps better - known than any similar collection of receipts. The very elegant - volume before us, entitled '_Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book_,' - is designed as a sequel and continuation to it, and should be - its companion in every family, as the receipts are all new, and - in no instance the same, even when their titles are similar. It - contains directions for plain and fancy cooking, preserving, - pickling; and commencing with soups, gives entirely new - receipts for every course of an excellent dinner, to the - jellies and confectionery of the dessert. Our readers are not - strangers to the accuracy and minuteness of Miss Leslie's - receipts, as, since the first number of the Gazette, she has - contributed to our housekeepers' department. The new receipts - in this volume are admirable. Many of them are modified from - French sources, though foreign terms and designations are - avoided. The publisher has brought it out in an extremely - tasteful style, and no family in the world should be without - it." - - -_From the Pennsylvania Inquirer._ - - "Mr. T. B. Peterson has just published '_Miss Leslie's New - Cookery Book_.' This will be a truly popular work. Thousands of - copies will very soon be disposed of, and other thousands will - be needed. It contains directions for cooking, preserving, - pickling, and preparing almost every description of dish: also - receipts for preparing farina, Indian meal, fancy tea-cakes, - marmalades, etc. We know of a no more useful work for - families." - - -_From the Public Ledger._ - - "As every woman, whether wife or maid, should be qualified for - the duties of a housekeeper, a work which gives the information - which acquaints her with its most important duties, will no - doubt be sought after by the fair sex. This work is '_Miss - Leslie's New Cookery Book_.' Get it by all means." - - -_From the Boston Evening Traveler._ - - "We do not claim to be deeply versed in the art of cookery; but - a lady, skilled in the art, to whom we have submitted this - work, assures us that there is nothing like it within the - circle of her knowledge; and that having this, a housekeeper - would need no other written guide to the mysteries of - housekeeping. It contains hundreds of new receipts, which the - author has fully tried and tested; and they relate to almost - every conceivable dish--flesh, fish, and fowl, soups, sauces, - and sweetmeats; puddings, pies, and pickles; cakes and - confectionery. There are, too, lists of articles suitable to go - together for breakfasts, dinners and suppers, at different - seasons of the year, for plain family meals, and elaborate - company preparations; which must be of great convenience. - Indeed, there appears to be, as our lady friend remarked, - everything in this book that a housekeeper needs to know; and - having this book she would seem to need no other to afford her - instruction about housekeeping." - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY - - BOOK. - - "As every woman, whether wife or maid, should be qualified for - the duties of a housekeeper, a work which gives the information - which acquaints her with its most important duties will no - doubt be sought after by the fair sex. This work is '_Miss - Leslie's New Cookery Book_.' Get it by all means."--_Public - Ledger._ - - PHILADELPHIA: - T. B. PETERSON NO. 102 CHESTNUT STREET. - 1857. - - - - - Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by - - ELIZA LESLIE, - - In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United - States, in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -I have endeavored to render this work a complete manual of domestic -cookery _in all its branches_. It comprises an unusual number of pages, -and the receipts are all practical, and _practicable_--being so -carefully and particularly explained as to be easily comprehended by the -merest novice in the art. Also, I flatter myself that most of these -preparations (if faithfully and liberally followed,) will be found very -agreeable to the general taste; always, however, keeping in mind that -every ingredient must be of unexceptionable quality, and that good -cooking cannot be made out of bad marketing. - -I hope those who consult this book will find themselves at no loss, -whether required to prepare sumptuous viands "for company," or to -furnish a daily supply of nice dishes for an excellent family table; or -plain, yet wholesome and palatable food where economy is very expedient. - - ELIZA LESLIE. - - _Philadelphia, March 28th, 1857._ - - - - -WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. - -Tested and Arranged by Miss Leslie. - - - Wheat flour one pound of 16 ounces is one quart. - Indian meal one pound 2 ounces is one quart. - Butter, when soft one pound 1 ounce is one quart. - Loaf sugar, broken up, one pound is one quart. - White sugar, powdered, one pound 1 ounce is one quart. - Best brown sugar, one pound 2 ounces is one quart. - Eggs ten eggs weigh one pound. - - -LIQUID MEASURE. - - Four large table-spoonfuls are half a jill. - Eight large table-spoonfuls are one jill. - Two jills are half a pint. - A common-sized tumbler holds half a pint. - A common-sized wine-glass holds about half a jill. - Two pints are one quart. - Four quarts are one gallon. - - About twenty-five drops of any thin liquid will fill a - common-sized tea-spoon. - - Four table-spoonfuls will generally fill a common-sized - wine-glass. - - Four wine-glasses will fill a half pint tumbler, or a large - coffee-cup. - - A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half; - sometimes not so much. - - A table-spoonful of salt is about one ounce. - - -DRY MEASURE. - - Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck. - One gallon is half a peck. - Two gallons are one peck. - Four gallons are half a bushel. - Eight gallons are one bushel. - - Throughout this book, the pound is avoirdupois weight--sixteen - ounces. - - - - -GENERAL CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - - SOUPS, 33 - - FISH, 77 - - SHELL-FISH, 108 - - BEEF, 138 - - MUTTON, 173 - - VEAL, 188 - - PORK, 216 - - HAM AND BACON, 235 - - VENISON, 252 - - POULTRY AND GAME, 265 - - SAUCES, 309 - - VEGETABLES, 343 - - BREAD, PLAIN CAKES, ETC., 401 - - PLAIN DESSERTS, 444 - - FINE DESSERTS, 469 - - FINE CAKES, 516 - - SWEETMEATS, 543 - - PICKLES, 568 - - PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK, 581 - - MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, 595 - - WORTH KNOWING, 645 - - - - -ANIMALS - -FIGURES EXPLANATORY OF THE PIECES INTO WHICH THE FIVE LARGE ANIMALS ARE -DIVIDED BY THE BUTCHERS. - - -[Illustration: _Beef._] - - 1. Sirloin. - 2. Rump. - 3. Edge Bone. - 4. Buttock. - 5. Mouse Buttock. - 6. Leg. - 7. Thick Flank. - 8. Veiny Piece. - 9. Thin Flank. - 10. Fore Rib: 7 Ribs. - 11. Middle Rib: 4 Ribs. - 12. Chuck Rib: 2 Ribs. - 13. Brisket. - 14. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. - 15. Clod. - 16. Neck, or Sticking Piece. - 17. Shin. - 18. Cheek. - - -[Illustration: _Veal._] - - 1. Loin, Best End. - 2. Fillet. - 3. Loin, Chump End. - 4. Hind Knuckle. - 5. Neck, Best End. - 6. Breast, Best End. - 7. Blade Bone. - 8. Fore Knuckle. - 9. Breast, Brisket End. - 10. Neck, Scrag End. - - -[Illustration: _Mutton._] - - 1. Leg. - 2. Shoulder. - 3. Loin, Best End. - 4. Loin, Chump End. - 5. Neck, Best End. - 6. Breast. - 7. Neck, Scrag End. - - _Note._--A Chine is two Loins; and a Saddle is two Loins and two - Necks of the Best End. - - -[Illustration: _Pork._] - - 1. Leg. - 2. Hind Loin. - 3. Fore Loin. - 4. Spare Rib. - 5. Hand. - 6. Spring. - - -[Illustration: _Venison._] - - 1. Shoulder. - 2. Neck. - 3. Haunch. - 4. Breast. - 5. Scrag. - - - - - - MISS LESLIE'S - - NEW - - COOKERY BOOK. - - - - -SOUPS. - - -It is impossible to have good soup, without a sufficiency of good meat; -thoroughly boiled, carefully skimmed, and moderately seasoned. Meat that -is too bad for any thing else, is too bad for soup. Cold meat recooked, -adds little to its taste or nourishment, and it is in vain to attempt to -give poor soup a factitious flavor by the disguise of strong spices, or -other substances which are disagreeable or unpalatable to at least one -half the eaters, and frequently unwholesome. Rice and barley add to the -insipidity of weak soups, having no taste of their own. And even if the -meat is good, too large a proportion of water, and too small a quantity -of animal substance will render it flat and vapid. - -Every family has, or ought to have, some personal knowledge of certain -poor people--people to whom their broken victuals would be acceptable. -Let then the most of their cold, fresh meat be set apart for those who -can ill afford to buy meat in market. To them it will be an important -acquisition; while those who indulge in fine clothes, fine furniture, -&c., had best be consistent, and allow themselves the nourishment and -enjoyment of freshly cooked food for each meal. Therefore where there is -no absolute necessity of doing otherwise, let the soup always be made of -meat bought expressly for the purpose, and of one sort only, except when -the flavor is to be improved by the introduction of ham. - -In plain cooking, every dish should have a distinct taste of its natural -flavor predominating. Let the soup, for instance, be of beef, mutton, or -veal, but not of all three; and a chicken, being overpowered by the -meat, adds nothing to the general flavor. - -Soup-meat that has been boiled long enough to extract the juices -thoroughly, becomes too tasteless to furnish, afterwards, a good dish -for the table; with the exception of mutton, which may be eaten very -well after it has done duty in the soup-pot, when it is much liked by -many persons of simple tastes. Few who are accustomed to living at -hotels, can relish hotel soups, which (even in houses where most other -things are unexceptionable), is seldom such as can be approved by -persons who are familiar with good tables. Hotel soups and hotel hashes, -(particularly those that are dignified with French names), are -notoriously made of cold scraps, leavings, and in some houses, are the -absolute refuse of the kitchen. In most cases, the sight of a hotel -stock-pot would cause those who saw it, to forswear soup, &c. - -If the directions are _exactly_ followed, the soups contained in the -following pages will be found palatable, nutritious, and easily made; -but they require plenty of good ingredients. - -We have heard French cooks boast of their soup being "delicate." The -English would call it "soup meagre." In such a country as America, where -good things are abundant, there is no necessity of imbibing the -flatulency of weak washy soups. - -All soups should be boiled slowly at first, that the essence of the meat -may be thoroughly drawn forth. The lid of the pot should be kept close, -unless when it is necessary to remove it for taking off the scum, which -should be done frequently and carefully. If this is neglected, the scum -will boil back again into the soup, spoil it, and make it impure or -muddled. When no more scum arises, and the meat is all in rags, dropping -from the bones, it is time to put in the vegetables, seasoning, &c., and -not till then; and if it should have boiled away too much, then is the -time to add a little _hot_ water from another kettle. Add also a large -crust of bread or two. It may now be made to boil faster, and the -thickening must be put in. This is a table-spoonful or more of flour -mixed to a smooth paste with a little water, and enriched with a -tea-spoonful of good butter, or beef-dripping. This thickening is -indispensable to all soups. Let it be stirred in well. If making a rich -soup that requires wine or catchup, let it be added the last thing, just -before the soup is taken from the fire. - -When all is quite done and thoroughly boiled, cover the bottom of a -tureen with small squares of bread or toast, and dip or pour the soup -into it, leaving all the bones and shreds of meat in the pot. To let any -of the sediment get into the tureen is slovenly and vulgar. Not a -particle of this should ever be found in a soup-plate. There are cooks -who, if not prevented, will put all the refuse into the tureen; so that, -when helped, the plates are half full of shreds of meat and scraps of -bone, while all the best of the soup is kept back for the kitchen. This -should be looked to. Servants who cannot reconcile it to their -conscience to steal money or any very valuable articles, have frequently -no hesitation in purloining or keeping to themselves whatever they like -in the way of food. - -Soup may be colored yellow with grated carrots, red with tomato juice, -and green with the juice of pounded spinach--the coloring to be stirred -in after the skimming is over. These colorings are improvements both to -its look and flavor. It may be browned with scorched flour, kept ready -always for the purpose. Never put cloves or allspice into soup--they -give it a blackish ashy dirt color, and their taste is so strong as to -overpower every thing else. Both these coarse spices are out of use at -good tables, and none are introduced in nice cookery but mace, nutmeg, -ginger, and cinnamon. - -The meat boiled in soup gives out more of its essence, when cut off the -bone, and divided into small pieces, always removing the fat. The bones, -however, should go in, as they contain much glutinous substance, adding -to the strength and thickness of the soup, which cannot be palatable or -wholesome unless all the grease is carefully skimmed off. Kitchen grease -is used chiefly for soap-fat. - -In cold weather, good soup, if carefully covered and kept in a cool -place, and boiled over again for half an hour _without_ any _additional -water_, will be better on the second day than on the first. - -It is an excellent way in winter to boil the meat and bones on the first -day, without any vegetables. Then, when very thick and rich, strain the -liquid into a large pan; cover it, and set it away till next morning--it -should then be found a thick jelly. Cut it in pieces, having scraped off -the sediment from the bottom--then add the vegetables, and boil them in -the soup. - - -MUSHROOM SOUP.--Cut a knuckle of veal, or a neck of mutton, (or both, if -they are small,) into large pieces, and remove the bones. Put it into a -soup-pot with sufficient water to cover the whole, and season with a -little salt and cayenne. Let it boil till the meat is in rags, skimming -it well; then strain off the soup into another pot. Have ready a large -quart, or a quart and a pint of freshly-gathered mushrooms--cut them -into quarters, having removed the stalks. Put them into the soup, adding -a quarter of a pound (or more) of fresh butter, divided into bits and -rolled in flour. Boil the whole about half an hour longer--try if the -mushrooms are tender, and do not take them up till they are perfectly -so. Keep the pot lid closely covered, except when you remove the lid to -try the mushrooms. Lay at the bottom of the tureen a large slice of -buttered toast, (cut into small squares,) and pour the soup upon it. -This is a company soup. - - -SWEET CORN SOUP.--Take a knuckle of veal, and a set of calf's feet. Put -them into a soup-pot with some cold boiled ham cut into pieces, and -season them with pepper only. Having allowed a quart of water to each -pound of meat, pour it on, and let it boil till the meat falls from the -bone; strain it, and pour the liquid into a clean pot. If you live in -the country, or where milk is plenty, make this soup of milk without any -water. All white soups are best of milk. You may boil in this, with the -veal and feet, an old fowl, (cut into pieces,) that is too tough for any -other purpose. When the soup is well boiled, and the shreds all strained -away, have ready (cooked by themselves in another pot) some ears of -sweet corn, young and tender. Cut the grains from the cob, mix the corn -with fresh butter, season it with pepper, and stir it in the strained -soup. Give the whole a short boil, pour it into the tureen, and send it -to table. - - -VENISON SOUP.--Is excellent, made as above, with water instead of milk, -and plenty of corn. And it is very convenient for a new settlement. - - -TOMATO SOUP.--Take a shin or leg of beef, and cut off all the meat. Put -it, with the bones, in a large soup-pot, and season it slightly with -salt and pepper. Pour on a gallon of water. Boil and skim it well. Have -ready half a peck of ripe tomatos, that have been quartered, and pressed -or strained through a sieve, so as to be reduced to a pulp. Add half a -dozen onions that have been sliced, and a table-spoonful of sugar to -lessen a little the acid of the tomatos. When the meat is all to rags, -and the whole thoroughly done, (which will not be in less than six hours -from the commencement) strain it through a cullender, and thicken it a -little with grated bread crumbs. - -This soup will be much improved by the addition of a half peck of -ochras, peeled, sliced thin, and boiled with the tomatos till quite -dissolved. - -Before it goes into the tureen, see that there are no shreds of meat or -bits of bone left in the soup. - - -FAMILY TOMATO SOUP.--Take four pounds of the lean of a good piece of -fresh beef. The fat is of no use for soup, as it must be skimmed off -when boiling. Cut the meat in pieces, season them with a little salt and -pepper, and put them into a pot with three quarts of water. The tomatos -will supply abundance of liquid. Of these you should have a large -quarter of a peck. They should be full-grown, and quite ripe. Cut each -tomato into four pieces, and put them into the soup; after it has come -to a boil and been skimmed. It will be greatly improved by adding a -quarter of a peck of ochras cut into thin round slices. Both tomatos and -ochras require long and steady boiling with the meat. To lessen the -extreme acid of the tomatos, stir in a heaped table-spoonful of sugar. -Add also one large onion, peeled and minced small; and add two or three -bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. The soup must boil till the meat -is all to rags and the tomatos and ochras entirely dissolved, and their -forms undistinguishable. Pour it off carefully from the sediment into -the tureen, in the bottom of which have ready some toasted bread, cut -into small squares. - - -FINE TOMATO SOUP.--Take some nice fresh beef, and divest it of the bone -and fat. Sprinkle it with a little salt and pepper, and pour on water, -allowing to each pound of meat a pint and a half (not more) of water, -and boil and skim it till it is very thick and clear, and all the -essence seems to be drawn out of the meat. Scald and peel a large -portion of ripe tomatos--cut them in quarters, and laying them in a -stew-pan, let them cook in their own juice till they are entirely -dissolved. When quite done, strain the tomato liquid, and stir into it a -little sugar. In a third pan stew an equal quantity of sliced ochras -with a very little water; they must be stewed till their shape can no -longer be discerned. Strain separately the meat liquor, the tomatos, and -the ochras. Mix butter and flour together into a lump; knead it a -little, and when all the liquids are done and strained put them into a -clean soup-pan, stir in the flour and butter, and give the soup one boil -up. Transfer it to your tureen, and stir altogether. The soup made -precisely as above will be perfectly smooth and nice. Have little rolls -or milk biscuits to eat with it. - -This is a tomato soup for dinner company. - - -GREEN PEA SOUP.--Make a nice soup, in the usual way, of beef, mutton, or -knuckle of veal, cutting off all the fat, and using only the lean and -the bones, allowing a quart of water to each pound of meat. If the meat -is veal, add four or six calf's feet, which will greatly improve the -soup. Boil it slowly, (having slightly seasoned it with pepper and -salt,) and when it has boiled, and been well skimmed, and no more scum -appears, then put in a quart or more of freshly-shelled green peas, with -none among them that are old, hard, and yellow; and also a sprig or two -of green mint, and a little loaf sugar. Boil the peas till they are -entirely dissolved. Then (having removed all the meat and bones) strain -the soup through a sieve, and return it to the soup-pot, (which, in the -mean time, should have been washed clean,) and stir into it a tea-cupful -of green spinach juice, (obtained by pounding some spinach.) Have ready -(boiled, or rather stewed in another pot) a quart of young fresh peas, -enriched with a piece of fresh butter. These last peas should be boiled -tender, but not to a mash. After they are in, give the soup another boil -up, and then pour it off into a tureen, in the bottom of which has been -laid some toast cut into square bits, with the crust removed. This soup -should be of a fine green color, and very thick. - - -EXCELLENT BEAN SOUP.--Early in the evening of the day before you make -the soup, wash clean a large quart of dried white beans in a pan of cold -water, and about bedtime pour off that water, and replace it with a -fresh panful. Next morning, put on the beans to boil, with only water -enough to cook them well, and keep them boiling slowly till they have -all bursted, stirring them up frequently from the bottom, lest they -should burn. Meantime, prepare in a larger pot, a good soup made of a -shin of beef cut into pieces, and the hock of a cold ham, allowing a -large quart of water to each pound of meat. - -Season it with pepper only, (no salt,) and put in with it a head of -celery, split and cut small. Boil the soup (skimming it well) till the -meat is all in rags; then take it out, leaving not a morsel in the pot, -and put in the boiled beans. Let them boil in the soup till they are -undistinguishable, and the soup very thick. Put some small squares of -toast in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup upon it. - -There is said to be nothing better for making soup than the camp-kettle -of the army. Many of the common soldiers make their bean soup of -surpassing excellence. - - -SPLIT PEA SOUP.--In buying dried or split peas, see that they are not -old and worm-eaten. Wash two quarts of them over night in two or three -waters. In the morning make a rich soup of the lean of beef or mutton, -and the hock of a ham. Season it with pepper, but no salt. When it has -boiled, and been thoroughly skimmed, put in the split peas, with a head -of celery cut into small pieces, or else two table-spoonfuls of celery -seed. Let it boil till the peas are entirely dissolved and -undistinguishable. When it is finished strain the soup through a sieve, -divesting it of the thin shreds of meat and bits of bone. Then transfer -it to a tureen, in which has been laid some square bits of toast. Stir -it up to the bottom directly before it goes to table. - -You may boil in the soup (instead of the ham) a good piece (a rib -piece, or a fillet) of corned pork, more lean than fat. When it is done, -take the pork out of the soup, put it on a dish, and have ready to eat -with it a pease pudding boiled by itself, cut in thick slices and laid -round the pork. This pudding is made of a quart of split peas, soaked -all night, mixed with four beaten eggs and a piece of fresh butter, and -tied in a cloth and boiled three or four hours, or till the peas have -become a mass. - - -ASPARAGUS SOUP.--Make in the usual way a nice rich soup of beef or -mutton, seasoned with salt and pepper. After it has been well boiled and -skimmed, and the meat is all to pieces, strain the soup into another -pot, or wash out the same, and return to it the liquid. Have ready a -large quantity of fine fresh asparagus, with the stalks cut off close to -the green tops or blossoms. It should have been lying in cold water all -the time the meat was boiling. Put into the soup half of the asparagus -tops, and boil them in it till entirely dissolved, adding a tea-cupful -of spinach juice, obtained by pounding fresh spinach in a mortar. Stir -the juice well in and it will give a fine green color. Then add the -remaining half of the asparagus; having previously boiled them in a -small pan by themselves, till they are quite tender, but not till they -lose their shape. Give the whole one boil up together. Make some nice -slices of toast, (having cut off the crust.) Dip them a minute in hot -water. Butter them, lay them in the bottom of the tureen, and pour the -soup upon them. This (like green peas) will do for company soup. - - -CABBAGE SOUP.--Remove the fat and bone from a good piece of fresh beef, -or mutton--season it with a little salt and pepper, put it into a -soup-pot, with a quart of water allowed to each pound of meat. Boil, and -skim it till no more scum is seen on the surface. Then strain it, and -thicken it with flour and butter mixed. Have ready a fine fresh cabbage, -(a young summer one is best) and after it is well washed through two -cold waters, and all the leaves examined to see if any insects have -crept between, quarter the cabbage, (removing the stalk) and with a -cabbage-cutter, or a strong sharp knife, cut it into shreds. Or you may -begin the cabbage whole and cut it into shreds, spirally, going round -and round it with the knife. Put the cabbage into the clear soup, and -boil it till, upon trial, by taking up a little on a fork, you find it -quite tender and perfectly well cooked. Then serve it up in the tureen. -This is a family soup. - - -RED CABBAGE SOUP.--Red cabbages for soup should either be quartered, or -cut into shreds; it is made as above, of beef or mutton, and seasoned -with salt, pepper, and a jill of strong tarragon vinegar, or a -table-spoonful of mixed tarragon leaves, if in summer. - - -FINE CABBAGE SOUP.--Remove the outside leaves from a fine, fresh, large -cabbage. Cut the stalk short, and split it half-way down so as to divide -the cabbage into quarters, but do not separate it quite to the bottom. -Wash the cabbage, and lay it in cold water for half an hour or more. -Then set it over the fire in a pot full of water, adding a little salt, -and let it boil slowly for an hour and a half, or more--skimming it -well. Then take it out, drain it, and laying it in a deep pan, pour on -_cold_ water, and let it remain till the cabbage is cold all through. -Next, having drained it from the cold water, cut the cabbage in shreds, -(as for cold-slaw,) and put it into a clean pot containing a quart and a -pint of boiling milk into which you have stirred a quarter of a pound of -nice fresh butter, divided into four bits and rolled in flour, adding a -little pepper and a very little salt. Boil it in the milk till -thoroughly done and quite tender. Then make some nice toast, cut it into -squares, lay it in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup on it. This -being made without meat is a good soup for Lent. It will be improved by -stirring in, towards the last, two or three beaten eggs. - - -CAULIFLOWER SOUP.--Put into a soup-pot a knuckle of veal, and allow to -each pound a quart of water. Add a set of calf's feet that have been -singed and scraped, but not skinned; and the hock of a cold boiled ham. -Boil it till all the meat is in rags, and the soup very thick, seasoning -with cayenne and a few blades of mace, and adding, towards the last, -some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Boil in another pot, one or -two fine cauliflowers. They are best boiled in milk. When quite done and -very tender, drain them, cut off the largest stalks, and divide the -blossoms into small pieces; put them into a deep covered dish, lay some -fresh butter among them, and keep them hot till the veal soup is boiled -to its utmost thickness. Then strain it into a soup-tureen, and put into -it the cauliflower, grating some nutmeg upon it. This soup will be found -very fine, and is an excellent white soup for company. - -For Lent this soup may be made without meat, substituting milk, butter, -and flour, and eggs, as in the receipt for fine cabbage soup. Season it -with mace and nutmeg. If made with milk, &c., put no water on it, but -boil the cauliflower in milk from the beginning. This can easily be done -where milk is plenty. - - -FINE ONION SOUP.--Take a fine fresh neck of mutton, and to make a large -tureen of soup, you must have a breast of mutton also. Let the meat be -divided into chops, season it with a little salt, and put it in a -soup-pot--allow a quart of water to each pound of mutton. Boil, and skim -it till no more scum arises, and the meat drops in rags from the bones. -In a small pot boil in milk a dozen large onions, (or more,) adding -pepper, mace, nutmeg, and some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. The -onions should previously be peeled and sliced. When they are quite soft, -transfer them to the soup, with the milk, &c., in which they were -cooked. Give them one boil in the soup. Then pour it off, or strain it -into the tureen, omitting all the sediment, and bones, and shreds of -meat. Make some nice slices of toast, dipping each in boiling water, and -trimming off all the crust. Cut the toast into small squares, lay them -in the bottom of the tureen, and pour the soup upon them. Where there is -no objection to onions it will be much liked. - -If milk is plenty use it instead of water for onion soup. White soups -are always best when made with milk. - - -TURNIP SOUP.--For a very small family take a neck of mutton, and divide -it into steaks, omitting all the fat. For a family of moderate size, -take a breast as well as a neck. Put them into a soup-pot with -sufficient water to cover them, and let them stew till well browned. -Skim them carefully. Then pour on more water, in the proportion of a -pint to each pound of meat, and add eight or ten turnips pared and -sliced thin, with a very little pepper and salt. Let the soup boil till -the turnips are all dissolved, and the meat in rags. Add, towards the -last, some bits of butter rolled in flour, and in five minutes -afterwards the soup will be done. Carefully remove all the bits of meat -and bone before you send the soup to table. It will be found very good, -and highly flavored with the turnips. - -Onion soup may be made in the same manner. Parsnip soup also, cutting -the parsnips into small bits. Or all three--turnips, onions and -parsnips, may be used together. - - -PARSNIP SOUP.--The meat for this soup may either be fresh beef, mutton, -or fresh venison. Remove the fat, cut the meat into pieces, add a little -salt, and put it into a soup-pot, with an allowance of rather less than -a quart of water to each pound. Prepare some fine large parsnips, by -first scraping and splitting them, and cutting them into pieces; then -putting them into a frying pan, and frying them brown, in fresh butter -or nice drippings. When the soup has been boiled till the meat is all in -rags, and well skimmed--put into it the fried parsnips and let them boil -about ten minutes, but not till they break or go to pieces. Just before -you put in the parsnips, stir in a table-spoonful of thickening made -with butter and flour, mixed to a smooth paste. When you put it into the -tureen to go to table, be sure to leave in the pot all the shreds of -meat and bits of bone. - - -CARROT SOUP.--Take a good piece of fresh beef that has not been -previously cooked. Remove the fat. It is of no use in making soup; and -as it must all be skimmed off when boiling, it is better to clear it -away before the meat goes into the pot. Season the beef with a very -little salt and pepper, and allow a small quart of water to each pound. -Grate half a dozen or more large carrots on a coarse grater, and put -them to boil in the soup with some other carrots; cut them into pieces -about two inches long. When all the meat is boiled to rags, and has left -the bone, pour off the soup from the sediment, transferring it to a -tureen, and sending it to table with bread cut into it. - - -POTATO SOUP.--Pare and slice thin half a dozen fine potatos and a small -onion. Boil them in three large pints of water, till so soft that you -can pulp them through a cullender. When returned to the pot add a very -little salt and cayenne, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -divided into bits, and boil it ten minutes longer. When you put it into -the tureen, stir in two table-spoonfuls or more of good cream. This is a -soup for fast-days, or for invalids. - - -CHESTNUT SOUP.--Make, in the best manner, a soup of the lean of fresh -beef, mutton, or venison, (seasoned with cayenne and a little salt,) -allowing rather less than a quart of water to each pound of meat, -skimming and boiling it well, till the meat is all in rags, and drops -from the bone. Strain it, and put it into a clean pot. Have ready a -quart or more of large chestnuts, boiled and peeled. If roasted, they -will be still better. They should be the large Spanish chestnuts. Put -the chestnuts into the soup, with some small bits of fresh butter rolled -in flour. Boil the soup ten minutes longer, before it goes to table. - - -PORTABLE SOUP.--This is a very good and nutritious soup, made first into -a jelly, and then congealed into hard cakes, resembling glue. If well -made, it will keep for many months in a cool, dry place, and when -dissolved in hot water or gravy, will afford a fine liquid soup, very -convenient to carry in a box on a journey or sea voyage, or to use in a -remote place, where fresh meat for soup is not to be had. A piece of -this glue, the size of a large walnut, will, when melted in water, -become a pint bowl of soup; or by using less water, you may have it much -richer. If there is time and opportunity, boil with the piece of soup a -seasoning of sliced onion, sweet marjoram, sweet basil, or any herbs you -choose. Also, a bit of butter rolled in flour. - -To make portable soup, take two shins or legs of beef, two knuckles of -veal, and four unskinned calves' feet. Have the bones broken or cracked. -Put the whole into a large clean pot that will hold four gallons of -water. Pour in, at beginning, only as much water as will cover the meat -well, and set it over the fire, to heat gradually till it almost boils. -Watch and skim it carefully while any scum rises. Then pour in a quart -of cold water to make it throw up all the remaining scum, and then let -it come to a good boil, continuing to skim as long as the least scum -appears. In this be particular. When the liquid appears perfectly clear -and free from grease, pour in the remainder of the water, and let it -boil very gently for eight hours. Strain it through a very clean hair -sieve into a large stoneware pan, and set it where it will cool quickly. -Next day, remove all the remaining grease, and pour the liquid, as -quickly as possible, into a three-gallon stew-pan, taking care not to -disturb the settlings at the bottom. Keep the pan uncovered, and let it -boil as fast as possible over a quick fire. Next, transfer it to a -three-quart stew-pan, and skim it again, if necessary. Watch it well, -and see that it does not burn, as that would spoil the whole. Take out a -little in a spoon, and hold it in the air, to see if it will jelly. If -it will not, boil it a little longer. Till it jellies, it is not done. - -Have ready some small white ware preserve pots, clean, and quite dry. -Fill them with the soup, and let them stand undisturbed till next day. -Set, over a slow fire, a large flat-bottomed stew-pan, one-third filled -with boiling water. Place in it the pots of soup, seeing it does not -reach within two inches of their rims. Let the pots stand uncovered in -this water, hot, but without boiling, for six or seven hours. This will -bring the soup to a proper thickness, which should be that of a stiff -jelly, when hot; and when cold, it should be like hard glue. When -finished turn out the moulds of soup, and wrap them up separately in new -brownish paper, and put them up in boxes, breaking off a piece when -wanted to dissolve the soup. - -Portable soup may be improved by the addition of three pounds of nice -lean beef, to the shins, knuckles, calves' feet, &c. The beef must be -cut into bits. - -If you have any friends going the overland journey to the Pacific, a box -of portable soup may be a most useful present to them. - - -PEPPER-POT.--Have ready a small half pound of very nice white tripe, -that has been thoroughly boiled and skinned, in a pot by itself, till -quite soft and tender. It should be cut into very small strips or -mouthfuls. Put into another pot a neck of mutton, and a pound of lean -ham, and pour on it a large gallon of water. Boil it slowly, and skim -it. When the scum has ceased to rise, put in two large onions sliced, -four potatos quartered, and four sliced turnips. Season with a very -small piece of red pepper or capsicum, taking care not to make it too -hot. Then add the boiled tripe. Make a quart bowlful of small dumplings -of butter and flour, mixed with a very little water; and throw them into -the pepper-pot, which should afterwards boil about an hour. Then take -it up, and remove the meat before it is put into the tureen. Leave in -the bits of tripe. - - -NOODLE SOUP.--This soup may be made with either beef or mutton, but the -meat must be fresh for the purpose, and not cold meat, re-cooked. Cut -off all the fat, and break the bones. If boiled in the soup they improve -it. To each pound of meat allow a small quart of water. Boil and skim -it, till the meat drops from the bone. Put in with the meat, after the -scum has ceased to rise, some turnips, carrots and onions, cut in -slices, and boil them till all to pieces. Strain the soup, and return -the liquid to a clean pot. Have ready a large quantity of noodles, (in -French _nouilles_,) and put them into the strained soup; let them boil -in it ten minutes. The noodles are composed of beaten eggs, made into a -paste or dough, with flour and a very little fresh butter. This paste is -rolled out thin into a square sheet. This sheet is then closely rolled -up like a scroll or quire of thick paper, and then with a sharp knife -cut round into shreds, or shavings, as cabbage is cut for slaw. These -cuttings must be dredged with flour to prevent their sticking. Throw -them into the soup while boiling the second time, and let it boil for -ten minutes longer. - - -CHICKEN SOUP.--Cut up two large fine fowls, as if carving them for the -table, and wash the pieces in cold water. Take half a dozen thin slices -of cold ham, and lay them in a soup-pot, mixed among the pieces of -chicken. Season them with a very little cayenne, a little nutmeg, and a -few blades of mace, but no salt, as the ham will make it salt enough. -Add a head of celery, split and cut into long bits, a quarter of a pound -of butter, divided in two, and rolled in flour. Pour on three quarts of -milk. Set the soup-pot over the fire, and let it boil rather slowly, -skimming it well. When it has boiled an hour, put in some small round -dumplings, made of half a pound of flour mixed with a quarter of a pound -of butter; divide this dough into equal portions, and roll them in your -hands into little balls about the size of a large hickory nut. The soup -must boil till the flesh of the fowls is loose on the bones, but not -till it drops off. Stir in, at the last, the beaten yolks of three or -four eggs; and let the soup remain about five minutes longer over the -fire. Then take it up. Cut off from the bones the flesh of the fowls, -and divide it into mouthfuls. Cut up the slices of ham in the same -manner. Mince the livers and gizzards. Put the bits of fowl and ham in -the bottom of a large tureen, and pour the soup upon it. - -This soup will be found excellent, and may be made of large old fowls, -that cannot be cooked in any other way. If they are so old that when -the soup is finished they still continue tough, remove them entirely, -and do not serve them up at all. - -Similar soup may be made of a large old turkey. Also, of four rabbits. - - -DUCK SOUP.--Half roast a pair of fine large tame ducks, keeping them -half an hour at the fire, and saving the gravy, the fat of which must be -carefully skimmed off. Then cut them up; season them with black pepper; -and put them into a soup-pot with four or five small onions sliced thin, -a small bunch of sage, a thin slice of cold ham cut into pieces, a -grated nutmeg, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated. Add the gravy of -the ducks. Pour on, slowly, three quarts of boiling water from a kettle. -Cover the soup-pot, and set it over a moderate fire. Simmer it slowly -(skimming it well) for about four hours, or till the flesh of the ducks -is dissolved into small shreds. When done, strain it through a tureen, -the bottom of which is covered with toasted bread, cut into square dice -about two inches in size. - - -FRENCH WHITE SOUP.--Boil a knuckle of veal and four calves' feet in five -quarts of water, with three onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, four -heads of white celery cut small, a table-spoonful of whole pepper, and a -_small_ tea-spoonful of salt, adding five or six large blades of mace. -Let it boil very slowly, till the meat is in rags and has dropped from -the bone, and till the gristle has quite dissolved. Skim it well while -boiling. When done, strain it through a sieve into a tureen, or a deep -white-ware pan. Next day, take off all the fat, and put the jelly (for -such it ought to be) into a clean soup-pot with two ounces of -vermicelli, and set it over the fire. When the vermicelli is dissolved, -stir in, gradually, a pint of thick cream, while the soup is quite hot; -but do not let it come to a boil after the cream is in, lest it should -curdle. Cut up one or two French rolls in the bottom of a tureen, pour -in the soup, and send it to table. - - -COCOA-NUT SOUP.--Take eight calves' feet (two sets) that have been -scalded and scraped, but not skinned; and put them into a soup-kettle -with six or seven blades of mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated. -Pour on a gallon of water; cover the kettle, and let it boil very slowly -(skimming it well) till the flesh is reduced to rags and has dropped -entirely from the bones. Then strain it into a broad white-ware pan, and -set it away to get cold. When it has congealed, scrape off the fat and -sediment, cut up the cake of jelly, (or stock,) and put it into a clean -porcelain or enameled kettle. Have ready half a pound of very finely -grated cocoa-nut. Mix it with a pint of cream. If you cannot obtain -cream, take rich unskimmed milk, and add to it three ounces of the best -fresh butter divided into three parts, each bit rolled in arrow-root or -rice-flour. Mix it, gradually, with the cocoa-nut, and add it to the -calves-feet-stock in the kettle, seasoned with a small nutmeg grated. -Set it over the fire, and boil it, slowly, about a quarter of an hour; -stirring it well. Then transfer it to a tureen, and serve it up. Have -ready small French rolls, or light milk biscuit to eat with it; also -powdered sugar in case any of the company should wish to sweeten it. - - -ALMOND SOUP is made in the above manner, substituting pounded almonds -for the grated cocoa-nut. You must have half a pound of shelled sweet -almonds, mixed with two ounces of shelled bitter almonds. After -blanching them in hot water, they must be pounded to a smooth paste (one -at a time) in a marble mortar; adding frequently a little rose-water to -prevent their oiling, and becoming heavy. Or you may use peach-water for -this purpose; in which case omit the bitter almonds, as the peach-water -will give the desired flavor. When the pounded almonds are ready, mix -them with the other ingredients, as above. - -The calves' feet for these soups should be boiled either very early in -the morning, or the day before. - - -SPRING SOUP.--Unless your dinner hour is very late, the stock for this -soup should be made the day before it is wanted, and set away in a -stone pan, closely covered. To make the stock take a knuckle of veal, -break the bones, and cut it into several pieces. Allow a quart of water -to each pound of veal. Put it into a soup-pot, with a set of calves' -feet,[A] and some bits of cold ham, cut off near the hock. If you have -no ham, sprinkle in a tea-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoon of cayenne. -Place the pot over a _moderate_ fire, and let it simmer slowly (skimming -it well) for several hours, till the veal is all to rags and the flesh -of the calves' feet has dropped in shreds from the bones. Then strain -the soup; and if not wanted that day, set it away in a stone pan, as -above mentioned. - - [A] In buying calves' feet always get those that are singed, not - skinned. Much of the glutinous or jelly property resides in the skin. - -Next day have, ready boiled, two quarts or more of green peas, (they -must on no account be old,) and a pint of the green tops cut off from -asparagus boiled for the purpose. Pound a handful of raw spinach till -you have extracted a tea-cupful of the juice. Set the soup or stock over -the fire; add the peas, asparagus, and spinach juice, stirring them well -in; also a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four bits, -and rolled in flour. Let the whole come to a boil; and then take it off -and transfer it to a tureen. It will be found excellent. - -In boiling the peas for this soup, you may put with them half a dozen -sprigs of green mint, to be afterwards taken out. - -Late in the spring you may add to the other vegetables two cucumbers, -pared and sliced, and the whitest part or heart of a lettuce, boiled -together; then well drained, and put into the soup with the peas and -asparagus. It must be very thick with vegetables. - - -SUMMER SOUP.--Take a large neck of mutton, and hack it so as nearly to -cut it apart, but not quite. Allow a small quart of water to each pound -of meat, and sprinkle on a tea-spoonful of salt and a very little black -pepper. Put it into a soup-pot, and boil it _slowly_ (skimming it well) -till the meat is reduced to rags. Then strain the liquid, return it to -the soup-pot, and carefully remove all the fat from the surface. Have -ready half a dozen small turnips sliced thin, two young onions sliced, a -table-spoonful of sweet marjoram leaves picked from the stalks, and a -quart of shelled Lima beans. Put in the vegetables, and boil them in the -soup till they are thoroughly done. You may add to them two -table-spoonfuls of green nasturtion seeds, either fresh or pickled. Put -in also some little dumplings, (made of flour and butter,) about ten -minutes before the soup is done. - -Instead of Lima beans, you may divide a cauliflower or two broccolis -into sprigs, and boil them in the soup with the other vegetables. - -This soup may be made of a shoulder of mutton, cut into pieces and the -bones cracked. For a large potful add also the breast to the neck, -cutting the bones apart. - - -AUTUMN SOUP.--Begin this soup as early in the day as possible. Take six -pounds of the lean of fine fresh beef; cut it into small pieces; -sprinkle it with a tea-spoonful of salt, (not more); put it into a -soup-pot, and pour on six quarts of water. The hock of a cold ham will -greatly improve it. Set it over a moderate fire, and let it boil slowly. -After it comes to a boil, skim it well. Have ready a quarter of a peck -of ochras cut into very thin round slices, and a quarter of a peck of -tomatos cut into pieces; also a quart of shelled Lima beans. Season them -with pepper. Put them in; and after the whole has boiled three hours _at -least_, take four ears of young Indian corn, and having grated off all -the grains, add them to the soup and boil it an hour longer. Before you -serve up the soup remove from it all the bits of meat, which, if the -soup is sufficiently cooked, will be reduced to shreds. - -You may put in with the ochras and tomatos one or two sliced onions. The -soup, when done, should be as thick as a jelly. - -Ochras for soup may be kept all winter, by tying them separately to a -line stretched high across the store room. - - -WINTER SOUP.--The day before you make the soup, get a leg or shin of -beef. Have the bone sawed through in several places, and the meat -notched or scored down to the bone. This will cause the juice or essence -to come out more freely, when cooked. Rub it slightly with salt; cover -it, and set it away. Next morning, early as possible, as soon as the -fire is well made up, put the beef into a large soup-pot, allowing to -each pound a small quart of water. Then taste the water, and if the salt -that has been rubbed on the meat is not sufficient, add a very little -more. Throw in also a tea-spoonful of whole pepper-corns; and you may -add half a dozen blades of mace. Let it simmer slowly till it comes to a -boil; then skim it well. After it boils, you may quicken the fire. At -nine o'clock put in a large head of cabbage cut fine as for cold-slaw; -six carrots grated; the leaves stripped from a bunch of sweet marjoram; -and the leaves of a sprig of parsley. An hour afterwards, add six -turnips, and three potatoes, all cut into four or eight pieces. Also two -onions, which will be better if previously roasted brown, and then -sliced. Keep the soup boiling steadily, but not hard, unless the dinner -hour is very early. For a late dinner, there will be time to boil it -slowly all the while; and all soups are the better for long and slow -boiling. See that it is well skimmed, so that, when done, there will be -not a particle of fat or scum on the surface. At dinner-time take it up -with a large ladle, and transfer it to a tureen. In doing so, carefully -avoid the shreds of meat and bone. Leave them all in the bottom of the -pot, pressing them down with the ladle. A mass of shreds in the tureen -or soup-plate looks slovenly and disgusting, and should never be seen at -the table; also, they absorb too much of the liquid. Let the vegetables -remain in the soup when it is served up, but pick out every shred of -meat or bone that may be found in the tureen when ready to go to table. - -In very cold weather, what is left of this soup will keep till the -second day; when it must be simmered again over the fire, till it just -comes to a boil. Put it away in a tin or stone vessel. The lead which is -used in glazing earthen jars frequently communicates its poison to -liquids that are kept in them. - - -VEGETABLE SOUP--(_very good_.)--Soak all night, in cold water, either -two quarts of yellow split peas, or two quarts of dried white beans. In -the morning drain them, and season them with a very little salt and -cayenne, and a head of minced celery, or else a heaped table-spoonful of -celery seed. Put them into a soup-pot with four quarts of water, and -boil them slowly till they are all dissolved and undistinguishable. Stir -them frequently. Have ready a profuse quantity of fresh vegetables, such -as turnips, carrots, parsnips, potatos, onions, and cauliflowers; also, -salsify, and asparagus tops. Put in, first, the vegetables that require -the longest boiling. They should all be cut into small pieces. Enrich -the whole with some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Boil these -vegetables in the soup till they are all quite tender. Then transfer it -to a tureen, and serve it up hot. - -The foundation being of dried peas or beans, makes it very thick and -smooth, and the fresh vegetables improve its flavor. It is a good soup -for Lent, or for any time, if properly and liberally made. - -All vegetable soups can be made in Lent without meat, if milk is -substituted for water, and with butter, beaten eggs and spice, to flavor -and enrich it. - - -FRENCH POT AU FEU.--This is one of the national dishes of France. The -following is a genuine French receipt, and it would be found very -palatable and very convenient if tried in our own land of plenty. The -true French way to cook it is in an earthen pipkin, such as can be had -in any pottery shop. The French vessel has a wide mouth, and -close-fitting lid, with a handle at each side, in the form of circular -ears. It is large and swelling in the middle, and narrows down towards -the bottom. The American pipkin has a short thick spout at one side, and -stands on three or four low feet. No kitchen should be without these -vessels, which are cheap, very strong, and easily kept clean. They can -sit on a stove, or in the corner of the fire, and are excellent for slow -cooking. - -The wife of a French artisan commences her pot au feu soon after -breakfast, prepares the ingredients, puts them, by degrees, into the -pot, attends to it during the day; and when her husband has done his -work she has ready for him an excellent and substantial repast, far -superior to what in our country is called a _tea-dinner_. Men frequently -indemnify themselves for the poorness of a tea-dinner by taking a dram -of whiskey afterwards. A Frenchman is satisfied with his excellent pot -au feu and some fruit afterwards. The French are noted as a temperate -nation. If they have eaten to their satisfaction they have little -craving for drink. Yet there is no country in the world where so much -good eating might be had as in America. But to live well, and -wholesomely, there should also be good cooking, and the wives of our -artisans must learn to think more of the comfort, health, and -cheerfulness of him who in Scotland is called the _bread-winner_, than -of their own finery, and their children's uncomfortable frippery. - -_Receipt._--For a large pot au feu, put into the pipkin six pounds of -good fresh beef cut up, and pour on it four quarts of water. Set it near -the fire, skim it when it simmers, and when nearly boiling, add a -tea-spoonful of salt, half a pound of liver cut in pieces, and some -black pepper. Then add two or three large carrots, sliced or grated on a -coarse grater; four turnips, pared and quartered; eight young onions -peeled and sliced thick, two of the onions roasted whole; a head of -celery cut up; a parsnip split and cut up; and six potatos, pared, -sliced, or quartered. In short any good vegetables now in season, -including tomatos in summer and autumn. Also a bunch of sweet herbs, -chopped small. Let the whole continue to boil slowly and _steadily_; -remembering to skim well. Let it simmer slowly five or six hours. Then, -having laid some large slices of bread in the bottom of a tureen, or a -very large pan or bowl, pour the stew or soup upon it; all the meat, and -all the vegetables. If you have any left, recook it the next morning for -breakfast, and _that day_ you may prepare something else for dinner. - -For beef you may substitute mutton, or fresh venison, if you live in a -venison country, and can get it newly killed. - - -WILD DUCK SOUP.--This is a company soup. If you live where wild ducks -are abundant, it will afford an agreeable variety occasionally to make -soup of some of them. If you suspect them to be sedgy or fishy, (you can -ascertain by the smell when drawing or cleaning them,) parboil each -duck, with a carrot put into his body. Then take out the carrot and -throw it away. You will find that the unpleasant flavor has left the -ducks, and been entirely absorbed by the carrots. To make the soup--cut -up the ducks, season the pieces with a little salt and pepper, and lay -them in a soup-pot. For a good pot of soup you should have four wild -ducks. Add two or three sliced onions, and a table-spoonful of minced -sage. Also a quarter of a pound of butter divided into four, and each -piece rolled in flour. Pour in water enough to make a rich soup, and -let it boil slowly till all the flesh has left the bones,--skim it well. -Thicken it with boiled or roasted chestnuts, peeled, and then mashed -with a potato beetle. A glass of Madeira or sherry will be found an -improvement, stirred in at the last, or the juice and grated peel of a -lemon. In taking it up for the tureen, be careful to leave all the bones -and bits of meat in the bottom of the pot. - - -VENISON SOUP.--Take a large fine piece of freshly killed venison. It is -best at the season when the deer are fat and juicy, from having plenty -of wild berries to feed on. I do not consider winter-venison worth -eating, when the meat is poor and hard, and affords no gravy, and also -is black from being kept too long. When venison is fresh and in good -order it yields a fine soup, allowing a small quart of water to each -pound of meat. When it has boiled well, and been skimmed, put in some -small dumplings made of flour and minced suet, or drippings. Also, -boiled sweet potatos, cut into round thick slices. You may add boiled -sweet corn cut off the cob; and, indeed, whatever vegetables are in -season. The soup-meat should boil till all the flesh is loose on the -bones, and the bits and shreds should not be served up. - -The best pieces of buffalo make good soup. - - -GAME SOUP.--Take partridges, pheasants, grouse, quails, or any of the -birds considered as game. You may put in here as many different sorts as -you can procure. They must all be fresh killed. When they are cleaned -and plucked, cut them in pieces as for carving, and put them into a -soup-pot, with four calves' feet and some slices of ham, two sticks of -celery, and a bundle of sweet herbs chopped small, and water enough to -cover the whole well. Boil and skim well, till all the flesh is loose -from the bones. Strain the liquid through a sieve into a clean pot, then -thicken it with fresh butter rolled in flour. Add some force-meat balls -that have been already fried; or else some hard-boiled yolks of eggs; -some currant jelly, or some good wine into which a half-nutmeg has been -grated; the juice of two oranges or lemons, and the grated yellow peel -of one lemon. Give the soup another boil up, and then send it to table, -having bread rolls to eat with it. - -This is a fine soup for company. Venison soup may be made in this -manner. Hare soup also. - - -SQUATTER'S SOUP.--Take plenty of _fresh-killed_ venison, as fat and -juicy as you can get it. Cut the meat off the bones and put it (with the -bones) into a large pot. Season it with pepper and salt, and pour on -sufficient water to make a good rich soup. Boil it slowly (remembering -to skim it well) till the meat is all in rags. Have ready some ears of -young sweet corn. Boil them in a pot by themselves till they are quite -soft. Cut the grains off the cob into a deep dish. Having cleared the -soup from shreds and bits of bone left at the bottom of the pot, stir in -a thickening made of indian meal mixed to a paste with a little fresh -lard, or venison gravy. And afterwards throw in, by degrees, the cut -corn. Let all boil together, till the corn is soft, or for about half an -hour. Then take it up in a large pan. It will be found very good by -persons who never were squatters. This soup, with a wild turkey or a -buffalo hump roasted, and stewed grapes sweetened well with maple sugar, -will make a good backwoods dinner. - - -MOCK TURTLE SOUP.--Boil together a knuckle of veal (cut up) and a set of -calves' feet, split. Also the hock of a cold boiled ham. Season it with -cayenne pepper; but the ham will render it salt enough. You may add a -smoked tongue. Allow, to each pound of meat, a small quart of water. -After the meat has come to a boil and been well skimmed, add half a -dozen sliced parsnips, three sliced onions, and a head of celery cut -small, with a large bunch of sweet marjoram, and two large carrots -sliced. Boil all together till the vegetables are nearly dissolved and -the meat falls from the bone. Then strain the whole through a cullender, -and transfer the liquid to a clean pot. Have ready some fine large -sweetbreads that have been soaked in warm water for an hour till all -the blood was disgorged; then transferred to boiling water for ten -minutes, and then taken out and laid in very cold water. This will -blanch them, and all sweetbreads should look white. Take them out; and -remove carefully all the pipe or gristle. Cut the sweetbreads in pieces -or mouthfuls, and put them into the pot of strained soup. Have ready -about two or three dozen (or more) of force-meat balls, made of cold -minced veal and ham seasoned with nutmeg and mace, enriched with butter, -and mixed with grated lemon-peel, bread-crumbs, chopped marjoram and -beaten eggs, to make the whole into smooth balls about the size of a -hickory nut. Throw the balls into the soup, and add a fresh lemon, -sliced thin, and a pint of Madeira wine. Give it one more boil up; then -put it into a tureen and send it to table. - -This ought to be a rich soup, and is seldom made except for dinner -company. - -If the above method is _exactly_ followed, there will be found no -necessity for taking the trouble and enduring the disgust and -tediousness of cleaning and preparing a calf's head for mock turtle -soup--a very unpleasant process, which too much resembles the horrors of -a dissecting room. And when all is done a calf's head is a very insipid -article. - -It will be found that the above is superior to any mock turtle. Made of -shin beef, with all these ingredients, it is very rich and fine. - - -FISH SOUP.--All fish soups should be made with milk, (if unskimmed so -much the better,) using no water whatever. The best fish for soup are -the small sort of cat-fish; also tutaug, porgie, blue fish, white fish, -black fish or sea-bass. Cut off their heads, tails, and fins, and remove -the skin, and the backbone, and cut the fish into pieces. To each pound -of fish allow a quart of rich milk. Put into the soup-pot some pieces of -cold boiled ham. No salt will then be required; but season with cayenne -pepper, and a few blades of mace and some grated nutmeg. Add a bunch of -sweet marjoram, the leaves stripped from the stalks and chopped. Make -some little dumplings of flour and butter, and put them in when the soup -is about half done. Half an hour's steady boiling will be sufficient. -Serve up in the tureen the pieces of fish and ham. Also some toast cut -in dice. - -Soup may be made in this manner, of chickens or rabbits, using always -milk enriched with bits of butter rolled in flour and flavored with bits -of cold ham. - - -LOBSTER SOUP.--This is a fine soup for company. Take two or three fine -fresh lobsters, (the middle sized are the best.) Heat a large pot of -water, throwing in a large handful of salt. When it is boiling hard put -in the lobsters, head foremost, that they may die immediately. They will -require at least half an hour's fast boiling; if large, three quarters. -When done, take them out, wipe off the scum that has collected on the -shell, and drain the lobster. First break off the large claws, and crack -them, then split the body, and extract all the white meat, and the red -coral--nothing else--and cut it into small pieces. Mash the coral into -smooth bits with the back of a large spoon, mixing with it plenty of -sweet oil; and, gradually, adding it to the bits of chopped lobster. Put -into a clear soup-pot two quarts, or more, of good milk, and thicken it -with half a dozen crackers or butter-biscuit, pounded fine; or the -grated crumbs of two or three small rolls, and stir in a quarter of a -pound of fresh butter made into a paste with two spoonfuls of flour. Put -in the chopped lobster, seasoned with nutmeg, a few blades of mace -powdered, and a little cayenne. Let all boil together, slowly, for half -an hour, keeping it closely covered. Towards the last, stir in two -beaten eggs. Lay some very small soda biscuit in the bottom of a tureen, -and pour the soup upon them. Nasturtion flowers strewed at the last -thickly over the surface of this soup, when in the tureen, are an -improvement both to its appearance and flavor. So is peppergrass. - - -CRAB SOUP.--Take the meat of two dozen boiled crabs, cut it small, and -give it a boil in two quarts of milk. Season it with powdered mace, -nutmeg, and a little cayenne, and thicken it with butter mixed in flour; -or, make the flour and butter into little dumplings. Have ready half a -dozen yolks of hard-boiled eggs, and crumble them into the soup just -before you take it from the fire. Add the heart of a fresh green -lettuce, cut small and strewed over the surface of the soup, after it is -poured into the tureen. - - -OYSTER SOUP.--Strain the liquor from one hundred oysters, and carefully -remove any bits of shell or particles of sea-weed. To every pint of -oyster liquor allow an equal quantity of rich milk. Season it with whole -pepper and some blades of mace. Add a head of celery, washed, scraped, -and minced small. Put the whole into a soup-pot, and boil and skim it -well. When it boils put in the oysters. Also, a quarter of a pound of -fresh butter; divide into four pieces, each piece rolled in flour. If -you can procure cream, add a half-pint, otherwise boil some six eggs -hard, and crumble the yolks into the soup. After the oysters are in give -them but one boil up, just sufficient to plump them. If boiled longer -they will shrink and shrivel and lose their taste. Take them all out and -set them away to cool. When the soup is done, place in the bottom of the -tureen some small square pieces of nicely toasted bread cut into dice, -and pour on the soup; grate in a nutmeg and then add the oysters. Serve -it up very hot. - -Another way is to chop or cut small the oysters, omitting the hard part. -Make the soup as above, and put in the minced oysters at the last, -letting them boil but five minutes. Mix the powdered nutmeg with them. -This is a good way, if you make but a small quantity of soup. - - -CLAM SOUP.--Having washed clean the outside shells of a hundred small -sand clams, (or scrubbed them with a brush,) put them into a large pot -of boiling water. When they open their shells take them out with a -ladle, and as you do so, put them into a cullender to drain off the -liquor. Then extract the clams from the shells with a knife. Save a -quart of the liquor, putting the clams in a pitcher by themselves. Mix -with the quart of liquor, in a clean pot, two quarts of rich milk. Put -in the clams, and add some pepper-corns and some blades of mace. Also, a -bunch of sweet marjoram, the leaves stripped off and minced. After all -has boiled well for an hour, add half a pound, or more, of nice fresh -butter, made into little dumplings with flour; also a pint of grated -bread-crumbs. Let it boil a quarter of an hour longer. Then pour the -soup off from the clams and leave them in the bottom of the pot. They -will not now be worth eating. If you cannot obtain small clams, you may -cut large ones in pieces, but they are very coarse and tough. - - -FAST-DAY SOUP.--_For winter._--Having soaked all night two quarts of -split peas, put them into a soup-pot, adding a sliced onion, two heads -of celery, the stalks split and cut small; a table-spoonful of chopped -mint, another of marjoram, and two beets, that have been previously -boiled and sliced. Mix all these with half a pound of fresh butter cut -into pieces and dredged with flour. Season with a little salt and -pepper. Pour on rather more than water enough to cover the whole. Let -them boil till all the things are quite tender, and the peas dissolved. -When done, cover the bottom of a tureen with small square bits of toast, -and pour in the contents of the soup-pot. - -It is a good way to boil the split peas in a pot by themselves, till -they are quite dissolved, and then add them to the ingredients in the -other pot. - -Vegetable soups require a large portion of vegetables, and butter -always, as a substitute for meat. - - -FRIDAY SOUP.--_For summer._--This is a fast-day soup. Pare and slice six -cucumbers, and cut up the white part or heart of six lettuces; slice two -onions, and cut small the leaves of six sprigs of fresh green mint, -unless mint is disliked by the persons that are to eat the soup; in -which case, substitute parsley. Add a quart of young green peas. Put the -whole into a soup-pot, with as much water as will more than cover them -well. Season slightly with salt and a little cayenne, and add half a -pound of nice fresh butter, divided into six, each piece dredged well -with flour. Boil the whole for an hour and a half. Then serve it up, -without straining; having colored it green with a tea-cup of pounded -spinach juice. - -When green peas are out of season, you may substitute tomatos peeled and -quartered. - -This soup, having no meat, is chiefly for fast days, but will be found -good at any time. - - -BAKED SOUP.--On the days that you bake bread, you may have a dish of -thick soup with very little trouble, by putting into a large earthen jug -or pipkin, or covered pan, the following articles:--Two pounds of -_fresh_ beef, or mutton, cut into small slices, having first removed the -fat; two sliced onions and four carrots, and four parsnips cut in four; -also, four turnips, six potatos pared and cut up, and half a dozen -tomatos, peeled and quartered. Season the whole with a little salt and -pepper. A large beet, scraped and cut up, will be an improvement. To -these things pour on three quarts of water. Cover the earthen vessel, -and set it in the oven with the bread, and let the soup bake at the same -time. - -If the bread is done before the dinner hour, you must keep the soup -still longer in the oven. - -Do not use _cold_ meat for this or any other soup, unless you are very -poor. - - - - -FISH. - - -TO CLEAN FISH.--This must always be done with the greatest care and -nicety. If sent to table imperfectly cleaned, they are disgraceful to -the cook, and disgusting to the sight and taste. Handle the fish -lightly; not roughly so as to bruise it. Wash it well, but do not leave -it in the water longer than is needful. It will lose its flavor, and -become insipid, if soaked. To scale it, lay the fish flat upon one side, -holding it firmly in the left hand, and with the right taking off the -scales by means of a knife. When both sides are done, pour sufficient -cold water over it to float off all the loose scales that may have -escaped your notice. It is best to pump on it. Then proceed to open and -empty the fish. Be sure that not the smallest particle of the entrails -is left in. Scrape all carefully from the backbone. Wash out all the -blood from the inside. A dexterous cook can draw a fish without -splitting it entirely down, all the way from head to tail. Smelts and -other small fish are drawn or emptied at the gills. - -All fish should be cleaned or drawn as soon as they are brought in, and -then kept on ice, till the moment for cooking. - - -TO BOIL FISH.--No fish can be fit to eat unless the eyes are prominent -and lively, the gills very red, and the body firm and stiff, springing -back immediately when bent round to try them. Every scale must be -carefully scraped off, and the entrails entirely extracted; not the -smallest portion being carelessly left sticking to the backbone. -Previous to cooking, fish of every kind should be laid in cold water, -and the blood thoroughly washed from the inside. Few fish are not the -better for being put on to boil in cold water, heating gradually with it -till it comes to a boil. If you put it on in boiling water, the outside -becomes boiling hot too soon; and is apt to break and come off in -flakes, while the inside still remains hard and underdone: halibut, -salmon, cod, and other large thick fish must be boiled slowly and -thoroughly throughout, taking nearly as long as meat. Always put salt -into the water at the commencement, and a little vinegar towards the -last. In every kitchen should be a large oval kettle purposely for -boiling fish. This kettle has a movable strainer inside. The fish lies -on the strainer. To try if it is done, run a thin sharp knife in it, -till it reaches the backbone; and see if the flesh will loosen or -separate easily. If it adheres to the bone it requires more boiling. -When quite done, leave it no longer in the kettle, or it will lose its -flavor and get a woolly look. Take out the strainer with the fish upon -it. Drain off the water through the strainer, cover the fish with a -folded napkin or fine towel, doubled thick; transfer it to a heated -dish, and keep it warm and dry till it goes to table, directly after the -soup. In the mean time prepare the sauce to be served up along with the -fish. - - -FRYING FISH.--Fish should be fried in _very good_ fresh butter, or nice -beef drippings; or else in lard, which last, is the most usual method. A -large allowance of lard should be put into the pan, and held over a -clear fire, till it becomes so hot as to boil fast in the pan. Till the -lard hisses and bubbles do not put in the fish. They must first be dried -separately in a clean cloth, and then scored on the back in deep -incisions, or gashes, and slightly dredged with flour. Unless the lard -is amply sufficient in quantity to cover the fish well, and bear them up -towards the surface, they will sink heavily to the bottom of the pan, -and perhaps stick there and burn. Also, if there is not fat enough, the -fish will absorb the whole of what there is, and become dark-colored and -greasy. - - -BAKED FISH.--This is a dish for company. You may bake in the same manner -a shad, a fresh codfish, a sheep's head, a white fish, or a blue fish, -or a pair of large black fish. Trout also are considered fish for -baking. Cut off the head, and split the fish nearly down to the tail. -For a stuffing, cut two slices of nice light wheat bread, of shape and -size to fit easily into the inside of the fish, and spread them thickly -with very new fresh butter. Season them with cayenne and powdered mace, -and moisten them with port wine or sherry. Add the juice and yellow rind -of a lemon, grated; and sufficient powdered white sugar to take off the -extreme acid of the last. Fill the body of the fish with this stuffing, -kept in by tying round the fish, carefully, a white cotton cord, or -tape, so as to confine it in several places. Lay bits of fresh butter -over the outside, at equal distances. Place the fish on a trivet, in a -bake pan, and pour round it a pint of wine and water mixed. Baste it -with this frequently while baking. It will require at least an hour in a -quick oven. If the basting does not leave sufficient gravy, add half a -pint more of wine mixed with a little hot water. - -When you have taken up the fish, keep it hot while you are finishing the -gravy, which you should thicken and enrich by stirring in smoothly a -piece of butter mixed slightly into a paste with flour, and seasoned -with grated nutmeg. Serve up the gravy in a sauce-boat, and lay slices -of lemon along the back of the fish, having, of course, removed the -string that was wound around it to confine the stuffing. Send to table -with the baked fish, a dish of potatos mashed with milk and butter, and -browned on the surface with a salamander, or a red hot shovel. Always -remove the seeds of lemon slices. Fresh mackerel may be baked thus. - -Fish may be baked plainly, with a stuffing of sweet marjoram, minced -sage, and onion, (previously boiled and drained,) a little butter, or -finely chopped beef suet, and plenty of grated bread crumbs, seasoned -with a little black pepper. Or instead of crumbs you may put in slices -of bread and butter soaked in milk, and secured as above from falling -out while the fish is baking. - - -STEWED FISH.--Take any nice fresh fish of moderate size, and when it is -drawn and washed, cut it into three or four pieces, and put them into a -stew-pan with amply sufficient hot water to keep them from burning. -Season them with a little salt and cayenne. After it has simmered -steadily for half an hour, and been skimmed, have ready a quarter of a -pound of fresh butter, mixed into a smooth paste with a heaped -table-spoonful of flour. Add this to the stew, with a bunch of sweet -marjoram chopped fine, and a sprig of chopped parsley. If approved, add -a small onion pared and sliced very thin. Cover it closely, and let it -stew another half hour. Then send it to table. This is a family dish. -Any fresh fish may be stewed thus. - - -SPICED FISH.--Cold fish that has been left at dinner is very nice to put -away for the supper table. It should be fresh salmon, fresh cod, -rock-fish, halibut, or the remains of any other large fine fish. Take -out the back bone, and cut the flesh into moderate sized pieces. Lay it -in a deep dish that has a cover. Season the fish with cayenne pepper, a -little salt, some grated nutmeg, and some blades of mace; also some -whole black pepper-corns, and pour over it plenty of good cider vinegar. -Tarragon vinegar will be an improvement. Cover it closely, and set it in -a cold place till wanted. If in spring or summer, set it in ice. - -We do not recommend cloves or allspice. The taste of those coarse spices -is so overpowering, (and to many persons so unpleasant,) that they are -now nearly out of use at good tables. - -Nutmeg, mace and ginger, will be found much better, and with cinnamon -occasionally, are sufficient for all spice seasonings. Nevertheless, for -those who like them, a few cloves will relieve the insipidity of -halibut. - - -FISH CAKES.--Take codfish (either fresh or salt) that has been boiled -the day before. Carefully remove the bones, and mince the flesh. Mix -with it a quantity of warm mashed potatos, (mashed with butter and milk) -in the proportion of one third codfish, and two thirds mashed potatos. -Add sufficient beaten egg to make the whole into a smooth paste. Season -it with cayenne; and, if the mixture seems dry, moisten and enrich it -with a little butter. Make it into cakes about an inch thick, and as -large round as the top of a common sized tea-cup. Or into round balls. -Sprinkle them well with flour. - -Fry them in lard, or beef-drippings. When one side is done turn them -over. Drain them, and send them to the breakfast table. If approved, you -may add to the mixture two or three onions boiled and minced. Any large -cold fish may be dressed in this manner for next morning's breakfast. - - -ROCK-FISH.--Rock-fish are generally plain boiled, (with the heads and -tails left on,) and they are eaten with egg sauce, (hard boiled eggs -chopped, and mixed with melted or drawn butter,) seasoned with a little -cayenne. Put on the side of your plate, any nice fish sauce from the -castors. Some serve up rock-fish with hard boiled eggs, cut into halves, -and laid closely in a row along the back of the fish; half an egg being -helped to each person. Cold butter is then eaten with it. We think this -a very nice way. - -Blue fish, white fish, and black fish, may be drest in this manner. -Also, sea-bass. - - -BLACK FISH AND SEA-BASS--Are all boiled in the same manner, having first -carefully scaled, and drawn, and well washed them. In drawing fish take -care that the whole of the inside is nicely scraped from the back-bone, -all along. When ready, dredge a clean soft cloth with flour, wrap the -fish in it; lay it on the strainer of a fish-kettle, and put it in -plenty of water, into which has been thrown a small table-spoonful of -salt. Keep it steadily boiling near half an hour. Take it carefully out -of the cloth, drain it on the strainer, and keep it warm. Send to table -with it egg-sauce. - -Eat mashed potatos with it. - -_Frying._--To fry the above fish,--cut them in two or three pieces; wash -them and wipe them dry; score them with deep cuts, and season with -cayenne and a little salt--dredge them with flour, and fry them brown in -a pan nearly full of boiling lard. - -Any fish may be fried in this manner. - - -FRESH COD.--A fine codfish should be very thick about the neck; the eyes -lively; the gills red; and the flesh firm and white. If flabby, it is -not good. It is in season from October till May. After scaling, -emptying, washing, and drying, cover it, and let it rest for an hour. -Then put it on in a fish-kettle of _cold_ water, (hard water if you can -procure it,) throw in a small handful of salt, and let the cod heat -gradually, skimming it well. Boil it gently, but steadily, till -thoroughly done. Then, take it out of the kettle, drain it, and keep it -warm till ready to go to table. No fish should be allowed to remain in -the water after the boiling is quite over. Serve it up with oyster or -lobster sauce. - -You may broil fresh cod in steaks, or fry it in cutlets. For frying -fish, you may use beef or veal drippings, with the fat skimmed off -carefully. Mutton fat (which is tallow) is unfit for all cookery. - - -TROUT.--Trout is considered a very nice fish, and is in season in the -summer. When fresh it is a fine flesh color, and its spots are very -bright. To fry trout, dry them in a cloth. Score them deeply, and touch -each incision or cut with a little cayenne. Dredge them with flour. -Grate some bread-crumbs very fine, and in another pan beat some eggs -very light and thick. Dip each fish twice in the egg, and twice in the -crumbs, and fry them in plenty of boiling lard, or in a mixture of lard -and fresh butter. When done, drain them, and send them to table with a -dish of cucumbers sliced and dressed in the usual way, with vinegar, -pepper and salt. - -If boiled, serve them up with egg sauce. If broiled, eat them with cold -butter and cayenne. - - -STEWED TROUT.--This is a dish for company. Mix together as much cold -water and sweet white wine, in equal quantities, as will well cover the -fish. When done, take them out of the stew pan, drain them, and keep -them hot while you prepare the gravy. For this, thicken the liquid with -a piece of fresh butter divided into four, each bit rolled in flour; and -add two or more well-beaten eggs, and season with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Mix all this together, give it one boil up, and pour it over the -trout, after they are dished for table. - - -BAKED TROUT.--Having cleaned the trout, wrap each fish in a very thin -slice of bacon, sprinkled with minced sweet marjoram, and seasoned with -cayenne and mace. Inclose each fish in a white paper, cut larger than to -fit exactly. Fasten the papers with strings or pins, to be removed -before the fish goes to table. Lay the trout in a square tin pan, and -bake them in the papers, which must be taken off when the fish are done; -but serve them up with the bacon round them or not, as you please. - - -SALT COD.--The afternoon before the fish is to be eaten, put it to soak -in plenty of cold water. Cover it, and let it stand in a warm place all -night. In the morning pour off that water, wash the fish clean, and -scrub the outside with a brush. Put it into a kettle with cold water -sufficient to cover it well; and let it boil fast till near dinner time, -skimming it well. About half an hour before dinner, pour off this -boiling water, and substitute a sufficiency of cold. In this last water -give the fish one boil up. Send it to table with egg sauce, made with -plenty of butter, and hard-boiled eggs cut in half, and laid closely -along the back of the fish, to be helped with it. Accompany the cod with -a plate of sliced beets drest with vinegar. - -Next morning you may take what is left, and having removed all the bone, -mince the fish, and mix it with an equal quantity of mashed potatos, -adding some butter, pepper, and raw egg. Make the whole into balls or -flat cakes, and fry them in drippings or lard. They are good at -breakfast. On every one put a small spot of pepper. - - -FRIED SMELTS.--The smelt is a very nice little fish, which has a -peculiarly sweet and delicate flavor of its own, that requires, to be -tasted in perfection, no other cooking than plain broiling or frying in -fresh lard. Do not wash them, but wipe them dry in a clean cloth; having -opened and drawn them, (they should be drawn through the gills,) and cut -off the heads and tails, dredge them with flour. The frying-pan must be -more than two-thirds full of boiling lard; boiling hard when the smelts -are put in, so as to float them on the surface. If there is not -sufficient lard, or if it is not boiling, the fish will sink and be dark -colored, and greasy. About ten minutes are sufficient for the small -ones, and fifteen for those of a larger size. When done, drain off the -lard and send them to the breakfast table on a hot dish. - -If you prefer retaining the heads and tails, dish them, alternately, -with the heads up and tails down. - - -FRIED CAT-FISH.--The best cat-fish are the small ones. If too large, -they are generally coarse and strong. They must be cooked quite fresh; -if possible, directly out of the water. They are very popular at fishing -parties. Wash and clean them, cutting off their heads and tails, and -removing the upper part of the back-bone, near the shoulders. Score them -along the back, with deep gashes or incisions. Dredge them with flour, -and fry them in plenty of lard, boiling fast when the cat-fish are put -into the pan. Or, you may fry them in the drippings or gravy saved from -roast beef, or veal. They are very nice dipped in a batter of beaten egg -and grated bread-crumbs, or they may be done in a plain, though not so -nice a way, with indian meal instead of bread-crumbs. Drain off the lard -before you dish them. Touch each incision or cut, _very slightly_, with -a little cayenne before they go to table. - -Cat-fish are a breakfast dish, and are also eaten at supper. Porgie and -tutaug are cooked in this manner. - -Any fish may be fried as above, when not split open. - - -FINE CHOWDER.--This is Commodore Stovens's receipt:--Take four -table-spoonfuls of minced onions that have been fried with slices of -salt pork; two pilot-biscuits broken up; one table-spoonful of minced -sweet marjoram, and one of sweet basil; a quarter of a bottle of -mushroom catchup; half a bottle of port wine; half a nutmeg grated; a -few cloves, and mace, and pepper-corns; six pounds of fresh cod, and -sea-bass, cut in slices. Put the whole into a pot, with water enough to -cover it about an inch. Boil it steadily for an hour, carefully stirring -it. Serve it up hot in a large deep dish. - -Chowder may be made as above, substituting clams for the cod. The clams -must be chopped small. You may, for variety, make chowder with oysters, -or with boiled lobsters, or crabs; always beginning the mixture with -pork fried with onions. - - -YANKEE CHOWDER.--Having sliced very thin some salt fat pork, season it -with pepper, lay it in the bottom of a large iron pot, set it over the -fire, and let it fry. When done, take out the pork, leaving the liquid -fat in the bottom. Next, peel and slice some onions, and lay them on the -fat. Pour in sufficient clam or oyster liquor to stew the onions. Have -ready a sufficient quantity of sea-bass, black fish, tutaug, porgie, -haddock, or fresh cod. Cut the fish in small pieces, and put it into the -pot. Add plenty of potatos pared and quartered. Then some clam liquor; -and lastly, some crackers, (soaked and split,) or some soda biscuit; the -crackers to cover the top. If you wish to fill a large pot, repeat all -these ingredients, arranging them in layers. If there is not gravy -enough, add some boiling milk, poured in at the last, and enriched with -bits of butter mixed with flour. Cover the pot closely, and let it stew -half an hour, or more, till all the contents are thoroughly done. You -may bake the chowder in an iron oven, over a wood fire, heaping live -coals on the oven lid. - - -CLAM CHOWDER.--Put into boiling water from fifty to a hundred of the -small sand clams; and when all their shells have opened, take them out, -as they are then sufficiently boiled. Extract all the hard, or tough, -uneatable part, and throw it away. Slice thin as much salt pork as, when -fried in the bottom of a large pot, will produce half a pint of liquid -or gravy. Take out all the pork, leaving the liquid in the pot. Add to -it a layer of clams. Then a layer of biscuit soaked in milk or warm -water. Next another layer of clams; then another layer of soaked -biscuit; then more clams. Season it with pepper and mace. If there is no -objection to onions, add three or four boiled and sliced, and some -minced marjoram. Also, some potatos, boiled, peeled, and quartered. Let -the last layer be clams, and then cover the whole with a good paste, and -bake it in an iron oven, or boil it in an iron pot. - -Chowder of fresh codfish, halibut, sea-bass, or any other good fish, is -made as above. Halibut requires a much larger portion of seasoning, and -a little more pork. Though very large and therefore very profitable, it -is in itself the most tasteless of all fish. Plain boiled halibut is not -worth eating. - - -SALMON.--In choosing a salmon, see that the gills are a fine red, the -eyes full, the scales clear, and the whole fish stiff; the flesh being -of the peculiar red known as salmon-color. Between the flakes is a -substance called the curd, which gives it firmness. By keeping, this -substance melts down and the flesh becomes soft. A salmon can only be -eaten in perfection on the sea-coast where it was caught, and on the -same day. To transport it any distance, it must be enclosed in a box, -and well packed in ice. In America, salmon is found in the greatest -perfection on the coast of Maine, in the Kennebec. Very fine ones are -brought to Boston market. They also abound on the coasts of California -and Oregon. The American salmon is much larger than those of Europe. It -is so fine a fish that its own flavor is better than any that can be -communicated except by the most simple sauce. It requires as much -boiling as meat, that is, a quarter of an hour for every pound. It is in -season from May till August or September. - -The lake salmon is good, but inferior to that of the ocean, in size, -richness, and color. - -In boiling a large fish, to judge if it is done, draw up the strainer or -fish-plate, and with a thin knife try if the flesh separates easily from -the bone. If you can loosen it immediately, it is cooked enough. It -injures a fish to let it get cool in the water. - - -BOILED SALMON.--After carefully emptying the salmon, wash it very clean -from the blood inside, and remove the scales. To preserve the fine color -of the salmon, or to set the curd or creamy substance between the -flakes, it should be put into boiling water, allowing to a gallon of -water a handful of salt. After the water has been boiling a few minutes, -and has been skimmed, put in the fish, (laying it on the drainer,) and -let it boil moderately fast, skimming it well. It must be thoroughly -boiled. Underdone fish of every kind is disgusting and unwholesome. -Before it is taken from the fish kettle ascertain if it is sufficiently -cooked, by trying if the back-bone easily loosens from the flesh. A -quarter of an hour may be allowed for each pound, for a large thick -salmon requires as much cooking as meat. When you take it up, drain it -well, and serve it up immediately. Have ready some lobster sauce, or -shrimp, if more convenient. To make it, mince the meat of a boiled -lobster, mashing the coral with it, and mix it with melted or drawn -butter, made very thick, and having but a very small portion of water. -For shrimp sauce, boil the shrimps, take off their heads, and squeeze -out their bodies from the shells. Thicken with them the drawn butter. -Nothing should go with salmon that will interfere with the flavor of -this fine fish, or give it any taste that will overpower or weaken its -own. - -Many prefer salmon with nothing more than cold butter spread on after it -is helped. We think, ourselves, that when the butter is very good, it is -not improved (for salmon) by the addition of flour and water; and a very -little is sufficient. You need use nothing from the castors except -cayenne. - -It is usual to eat cucumbers with salmon, and no other vegetables; the -cucumbers to be pared, sliced, laid in cold water, and dressed, and -served up by themselves, with a little plate for each person, that the -vinegar, &c., of the cucumbers may not impart too much acid to the -salmon. - -In places remote from the sea, a whole salmon is seldom seen at table -but at dinner parties, or at good hotels. In a very hot climate it -should not be seen at all. When in season, it can be bought in any -quantity by the pound, for a small family. For a small dinner company, -from four to six pounds will suffice. - -Cook salmon-trout in the same manner. Large fish should be helped with a -silver fish trowel. - - -ROASTED SALMON.--Take a large piece of fine fresh salmon, cut from the -middle of the fish, well cleaned and carefully scaled. Wipe it dry in a -clean coarse cloth. Then dredge it with flour, put it on the spit, and -place it before a clear bright fire. Baste it with fresh butter, and -roast it well; seeing that it is thoroughly done to the bone. Serve it -up plain; garnishing the dish with slices of lemon, as many persons like -a little lemon-juice with salmon. This mode of cooking salmon will be -found excellent. A small one, or a salmon-trout, may be roasted whole. - - -BAKED SALMON.--A small salmon may be baked whole. Stuff it with -forcemeat made of bread-crumbs; chopped oysters, or minced lobster; -butter, cayenne, a little salt, and powdered mace,--all mixed well, and -moistened with beaten yolk of egg. Bend the salmon round, and put the -tail into the mouth, fastening it with a skewer. Put it into a large -deep dish; lay bits of butter on it at small intervals; and set it into -the oven. While baking, look at it occasionally, and baste it with the -butter. When one side is well browned, turn it carefully in the dish, -and add more butter. Bake it till the other side is well browned. Then -transfer it to another dish with the gravy that is about it, and send it -to table. - -If you bake salmon in slices, reserve the forcemeat for the outside. Dip -each slice first in beaten yolk of egg, and then in the forcemeat, till -it is well coated. - - -BROILED SALMON.--Wash carefully all traces of blood from the inside of -the fish. Cut it into rather thick slices, or fillets. Dry them in a -clean cloth, and dredge them with flour. Chalk the bars of the gridiron, -or grease them with lard or suet, or the dripping of beef or veal, to -prevent the fish from sticking. Let the fire be a bed of clear bright -hot coals. Broil the slices well on both sides; and when done, transfer -them to a hot dish, and lay a bit of fresh butter on each, and season -them a little with cayenne. - -Fresh codfish may be cut into steaks, and broiled as above. - -Also halibut, or any other large fish. - -Serve up shrimp or lobster sauce, with all cutlets or steaks of large -fish. - - -FRIED SALMON CUTLETS.--Having washed, dried and floured the cutlets, put -near a pound of fresh lard into a frying pan, set it over a clear brisk -fire till it boils fast. Have ready a marinade or dressing made of -grated bread-crumbs, chopped sweet-marjoram, beaten yolks of eggs, and -powdered mace--all well mixed. Dip each cutlet into this marinade twice -over, and fry them. There must be plenty of lard, so that the cutlets -may float on its surface instead of sinking to the bottom, and becoming -dark, heavy, and greasy. When they are done, take them up with a -perforated skimmer, draining off the lard as you do so. Lay them on a -hot dish, and keep them hot till wanted. Serve up with them mashed -potatos made into flat cakes, and browned with a salamander or red hot -shovel. - -Fresh codfish cutlets may be fried in this manner. - -You may broil halibut as above. Halibut is too insipid for boiling. - - -PICKLED SALMON.--Clean a fine fresh salmon, and remove the bones. Cut -off the head, fins, and tail. Fish, to be pickled, should (instead of -washing) be wiped, and rubbed with a clean dry cloth. Cut it into steaks -or cutlets. Put it into a stone-ware jar with a close cover. A broad low -jar will be best. Sprinkle it with salt, and cayenne. Add some grains of -whole black pepper, and some blades of mace, seasoning it highly to make -it keep well. Fill up the jar with the best cider vinegar, set it in a -moderate oven, and bake it till thoroughly done; adding more vinegar, if -it seems too dry. Then cover the jar very closely, with the lid--if -there is the smallest crack, paste all round a fillet of strong, white -paper. Whenever you open the jar to take out some of the salmon for use, -add some fresh vinegar. Keep the jar in a dry cool place. If properly -done, and well seasoned, it will keep several months. - - -BROILED FRESH MACKEREL.--Mackerel cannot be eaten too fresh, as no fish -spoils so soon; for which reason in England mackerel is permitted to be -sold on Sundays. We have heard in London the fishwomen crying it about -the streets on Sunday morning before church time. And even then it is -far inferior to mackerel taken immediately out of the sea, at the places -on the coast. It is generally broiled, as no other cooking seems to suit -it, and draw forth its true flavor. Split your mackerel, remove the -bone, and cut off the heads and tails. Dredge them on both sides with -flour, and sprinkle the inside with black pepper and a little salt. Have -your gridiron very hot, over a clear fire, and grease the bars with -lard, or chalk them to prevent the fish from sticking. Broil them well -on both sides, and when they are done, and very hot, lay some bits of -fresh butter upon them. Cover to keep them warm, and send them to table -as soon as possible. They are a fine breakfast fish, and good at a plain -dinner. For sauce, cold butter is all that is necessary, but you may mix -with it, chopped parsley, or minced fennel. At the best English tables, -stewed _gooseberries_, pulped through a sieve and sweetened, is the -fashionable sauce for broiled mackerel, or lemon-juice is squeezed -profusely over the fish. To this the lovers of fruit with every thing, -will not object. - -If a mackerel is fresh, the eyes will be full and lively, the gills very -red, and the stripes or bars on the back a very dark color, (nearly -black,) and strongly marked; and the body thick. If thin and flat below -the shoulders, the eyes sunk, the gills pale, and the dark stripes dull -and indistinct, the fish is unfit to eat. - - -FRIED MACKEREL.--For frying, take small mackerel, as fresh as possible. -Wash them, dry them in a clean cloth, and score them deeply in the back, -making several deep cuts. Season them with a little salt and pepper. Go -over them with beaten egg, and then cover them thickly with grated -bread-crumbs; which, for this purpose, are superior to indian meal or -pounded crackers. Fry them in boiling lard, and dish them hot. Send them -to table with a dish of potatos sliced and fried in butter. - -Any fish may be fried in this manner. If large, cut it into pieces. - - -FRIED HALIBUT.--There is a great deal of eating in a halibut, as it is a -fish of immense size, and has only the back bone. It is sold in pieces -of any weight or quantity, and is exceedingly white and delicate in -appearance. But it is so very insipid, that when _boiled_ it has no -taste at all. Therefore it is always broiled or fried, except at tables -where economy is the chief consideration. If broiled, it is done in the -same manner as any other large fish, but to make it palatable requires -something to give it a little taste. - -To fry halibut--take a piece from the middle of the fish, wash it very -carefully, and dry it in a clean cloth. Then cut it into thick fillets, -extracting the bone, which is easily done with a sharp knife, loosening -the flesh from the bone, and raising it as you proceed. Remove the skin. -You may also cut the fillets into slices about an inch thick. Season -with cayenne, and a very little salt. Cover them slightly with nice -butter. Have ready in one pan plenty of grated bread-crumbs; in another -a sufficiency of beaten yolk of egg, seasoned with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Dip the slices first into the egg, then into the pan of -bread-crumbs. Do this twice over, to every slice. Have ready over the -fire a hot frying pan full of _boiling_ lard. Put in the slices and fry -them well. When one side is done, turn the other. When all are done, -take them from the frying pan with a perforated skimmer, and drain them. -Keep them hot between two heated dishes. - -Cooked in this manner, the halibut will be sufficiently flavored and is -a profitable fish. - -Instead of frying, the halibut steaks may be broiled over a clear fire, -on a grooved gridiron. Having first buttered it, dip each steak, as -above, in bread-crumbs and egg, and lay upon each steak a large tomato -opened, and stuffed with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs seasoned with -butter, pepper, and mace. This will be found a very nice way of cooking -halibut. Fresh cod may be done in the same manner. - -Cold halibut is sometimes drest as salad for the tea-table. - - -BOILED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S-HEAD FISH.--Having cleaned and washed the fish, -soak it an hour or two in salt and water to draw off the slime. Then let -it lie half an hour or more in cold water. Afterwards drain, and wipe it -dry. Score the back deeply with a knife. The whiteness of the fish will -be improved by rubbing it over with a cut lemon. The fish kettle must be -large, and nicely clean. Lay the fish with its back downward, on the -strainer of the kettle. Cover it well with cold water, (milk and water -in equal portions will be better still,) and add a small spoonful of -salt. Do not let it come to a boil too fast, and skim it carefully. When -the scum has ceased to rise, diminish the heat under the kettle, and let -it simmer for about half an hour or more; not allowing it to boil hard. -When the fish is done, take it up carefully with a fish-slice; and -having prepared the sauce, pour it over the fish and send it to table -hot. - -For the sauce, mix together very smoothly, with a broad-bladed knife, a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and two table-spoonfuls of flour. -Put them into a clean sauce-pan, and hold it over the fire, and stir -them till melted. Then add a large salt-spoonful of powdered mace, and -as much cayenne as will lie on a sixpence. It will be much improved by -the addition of some boiled lobster, chopped small. When the sauce has -simmered five minutes, add very gradually half a pint of rich cream, and -let it come almost to a boil, stirring all the time. After the fish is -taken up, pour the sauce over it hot. Or you may send it to table in a -sauce-boat. In this case ornament the fish with the coral of the lobster -put on in a handsome figure. - -Another way of dressing this fish is, after it has been boiled, to set -it on ice to get cold; and then, having carefully removed the bones, cut -the flesh into small squares, put it into a stew-pan, and having mixed -the above sauce, add it to the fish, and let it stew slowly in the -sauce; but do not let it come to a boil. When thoroughly hot, take it -up, and send it to table in a deep dish. - - -BAKED TURBOT OR SHEEP'S-HEAD FISH.--Having cleaned the fish, soak it an -hour or two in salt and water, and afterwards wash it well through two -or three fresh waters. Then dry it in a clean towel. Score it deeply -across the back; and then lay it in a deep white baking-dish. Mix -together a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg; add a -salt-spoon of cayenne; a few sprigs of sweet marjoram and sweet basil, -finely minced; two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter; and two -table-spoonfuls of grated bread-crumbs. Stir this mixture into a pint of -rich cream. Pour this marinade over the fish, cover it, and let it stand -half an hour. Then bake it in the marinade; and send it hot to table. - -If the fish is too large to be baked whole, cut it into fillets, -extracting the bone. - -Salmon-trout may be baked in this manner. - - -SEA BASS WITH TOMATOS.--Take three large fine sea-bass, or black-fish. -Cut off their heads and tails, and fry the fish in plenty of lard till -about half done. Have ready a pint of tomatos, that have been pickled -cold in vinegar flavored with a muslin bag of mixed spices. Drain the -tomatos well from the vinegar; skin them, and mash them in a pan; -dredging them with about as much flour as would fill a large table-spoon -heaped up. Pour the mixture over the fish while in the frying pan; and -continue frying till they are thoroughly done. - -Cutlets of halibut may be fried in this manner with tomatos: also, any -other pan-fish. - -Beef-steaks or lamb-chops are excellent fried thus with tomatos. - - -BAKED SALMON-TROUT.--Having cleaned the fish, and laid it two hours in -weak salt and water, dry it in a cloth, and then rub both the inside and -outside with a seasoning of cayenne pepper, powdered mace, nutmeg, and -a little salt, mixed well together. Then lay it in a deep baking-pan, -turn the tail round into the mouth, and stick bits of fresh butter -thickly over the fish. Put it into an oven, and bake it well; basting it -frequently with the liquid that will soon surround it. When you suppose -it to be nearly done, try it by sticking down to the backbone a -thin-bladed knife. When you find that the flesh separates immediately -from the bone, it is done sufficiently. Serve it up with lobster-sauce. - -Any large fresh fish may be baked in this way. - - -CREAM TROUT.--Having prepared the trout very nicely, and cut off the -heads and tails, put the fish into boiling water that has been slightly -salted, and simmer them for five minutes. Then take them out, and lay -them to drain. Put them into a stew-pan, and season them well with -powdered mace, nutmeg, and a little cayenne, all mixed together. Put in -as much rich cream as will cover the fish, adding the fresh yellow rind -of a small lemon, grated. Keep the pan covered, and let the fish stew -for about ten minutes after it has begun to simmer. Then dish the fish, -and keep them hot till you have finished the sauce. Mix, very smoothly, -a small table-spoonful of arrow-root, the juice of the lemon, and two -table-spoonfuls of sugar, and stir it into the cream. Pour the sauce -over the fish, and then send them to table. - -Turbot or sheep's-head fish may be dressed as above; of course it will -require a larger proportion of seasoning, &c., and longer time to cook. - -Carp is very nice stewed in this manner. - - -STEWED CODFISH.--Take fine _fresh_ cod, and cut it into slices an inch -thick, separated from the bones. Lay the pieces of fish in the bottom of -a stew-pan: season them with grated nutmeg; half a dozen blades of mace; -a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper; and a small saucer full of chopped -celery; or a bunch of sweet herbs tied together. Add a pint of oyster -liquor, and the juice of a lemon. Cover it close, and let it stew gently -till the fish is almost done, shaking the pan frequently. Then take a -piece of fresh butter the size of an egg; roll it in flour, and add it -to the stew. Also, put in two dozen large fine oysters, with what liquor -there is about them. Cover it again; quicken the fire a little, and let -the whole continue to stew five minutes longer. Before you send it to -table, remove the bunch of sweet herbs. - -Rock-fish may be stewed in this manner. Fresh salmon also. - - -FRIED CODFISH.--Take the middle or tail part of a fresh codfish, and cut -it into slices not quite an inch thick, first removing the skin. Season -them with a little salt and cayenne pepper. Have ready in one dish some -beaten yolk of egg, and in another some grated bread-crumbs. Dip each -slice of fish twice into the egg, and then twice into the crumbs. Fry -them in fresh butter, and serve them up with the gravy about them. - -Halibut may be fried as above. - - -STEWED HALIBUT.--Cut the fish into pieces about four inches square, of -course omitting the bone. Season it very slightly with salt, and let it -rest for half an hour. Then take it out of the salt, put it into a large -deep dish, and strew over it a mixture of cayenne pepper, ground white -ginger, and grated nutmeg. Lay among it some small bits of fresh butter -rolled in grated bread. Add half a pint of vinegar, (tarragon vinegar if -you have it.) Place the dish in a slow oven, and let the halibut cook -till thoroughly done, basting it very _frequently_ with the liquid. When -nearly done, add a large table-spoonful or more of capers, or pickled -nasturtions. - -Halibut is a very insipid fish; but this mode of cooking will give it -taste. - - -STEWED ROCK-FISH.--Take a large rock-fish, and cut it in slices near an -inch thick. Sprinkle it _very slightly_ with salt, and let it remain for -half an hour. Slice very thin half a dozen large onions. Put them into a -stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut into bits. Set -them over a slow fire, and stir them continually till they are quite -soft, taking care not to let them become brown. Then put in the sliced -fish in layers; seasoning each layer with a mixture of white ground -ginger, cayenne pepper, and grated nutmeg; add some chopped parsley, and -some bits of butter rolled in flour. Pour in a pint of water, and, if -you choose, a wine-glass of vinegar, (tarragon vinegar will be best.[B]) -Set it over a good fire and let it cook about an hour. When done, take -out the fish carefully, to avoid breaking the slices. Lay it in a deep -dish that has been made hot, and cover it immediately. Have ready the -beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir them into the gravy. Give it one boil up; -and then either pour it over the fish, or serve it up in a sauce-boat. - - [B] To make this vinegar--half fill a bottle with tarragon leaves, and - fill it quite up with the best cider vinegar. Cork it tightly, and do - not remove the tarragon, but let it remain always at the bottom. The - flavor is very fine. - -Halibut, fresh cod, or any other large fish may be stewed in this -manner. - - -TO KEEP A SHAD FRESH.--By the following process, (which we can highly -recommend from experience,) a shad may be kept twenty-four hours, or -indeed longer, so as to be perfectly fresh in taste and appearance. For -instance, if brought _fresh_ from market on Saturday morning, it may be -broiled for breakfast on Sunday, and will seem like a fresh shad just -from the water. Immediately on bringing it in, let it be scaled, -cleaned, washed, split, and wiped dry; cutting off the head and tail. -Spread the shad open on a large flat dish. Mix well together in a cup, a -heaped table-spoonful of brown sugar; a heaped tea-spoonful of cayenne -pepper, and a tea-spoonful of fine salt; and then rub the mixture, -thoroughly and evenly, all over the inside of the fish; which, of -course, must be spread with the skin or outside downward. Cover it -closely with a large tin cover or with another dish, and set it -immediately on ice or in a very cold place, and let it rest till next -morning, or till it is wanted for cooking. Immediately before you put it -on the gridiron, take a clean towel and carefully wipe off the _whole of -the seasoning_, not letting a particle of it remain round the edges, or -anywhere else. Then put the shad on a previously heated gridiron, over -hot coals, and broil it well. Butter it, and send it hot to table, where -every one can season it again, according to their taste. - - -PLANKED SHAD.--This is the best way of cooking shad when in perfection, -just out of the river; and it is much in use at fishing party dinners. A -board or plank, about three inches thick and two feet square, must be -provided for the purpose. This plank should be of well-seasoned oak or -hickory, and very clean. A pine board will very soon catch fire and -burn; besides communicating to the fish a taste of turpentine or rosin. -Take a very fine shad, and (having cut off the head and tail,) split it -down the back, clean it, wash it well, and wipe it dry. Sprinkle it -with salt, and cayenne. Stand up the board before the fire till it -becomes very hot, and almost begins to char. Then nail to the hot board -the spread-open shad, with the back or skin-side next to the plank, -securing it with a few nails, not driven in so hard that they cannot -easily be drawn out. Begin to roast it with the head downward. After a -while turn the other end of the plank, so as to place the tail downward. -Turn it frequently up or down, that the juices of the fish may be -equally dispersed throughout. When done, butter it with fresh butter, -and send it to table on the board; under which, place a large dish or -tray. Help it to the company off the plank. This mode of cooking a shad -will be found superior to all others; and is so generally liked, that -two at least will be required, one at each end of the table. It is much -enjoyed by parties who have dinners on the banks of the river, and -bespeak of the fishermen shad just out of the water. - -Lake salmon may be cooked in this manner on a plank. Also, blue fish, -and the lake white fish. - -At the principal household stores, shad-boards of oak are now to be -purchased ready made. The cost is from a dollar to seventy-five cents. -They are very strong and smooth, and furnished with thick wires crossing -the board diagonally. Behind these the fish is to slip in without -nailing. They are much used, and we advise every house-keeper to get -one. We see very nice ones at Carryl's Furnishing Store, Chestnut -street, Philadelphia. - - - - -SHELL FISH. - - -TO CHOOSE OYSTERS.--Insert a knife, and if the shell instantly closes -firmly on the knife, the oysters are fresh. If it shuts slowly and -faintly, or not at all, they are dying, or dead. When the shells of raw -oysters are found gaping open they are fit for nothing but to throw -away, and should not have been seen in the market, as they are quite -dead and decomposition has commenced. Clams the same. - - -TO FEED OYSTERS.--When it is necessary to keep oysters a day or two -before they are cooked, they must be kept clean and fed, otherwise they -will die and spoil. Put them into a large tub of clean water; wash from -them the mud and sand, and scrub them with a birch broom. Then pour off -_that_ water, and give them a clean tubful, placing the oysters with the -deep or large side downward, and sprinkling them well, with salt mixed -with it, allowing about a pint of salt to every two gallons of water. -But if you have a very large quantity of oysters, add to the salt and -water several handfuls of indian meal. Repeat this every twelve hours, -with fresh water and meal. Always at the time of high water, oysters may -be seen to open their shells, as if in expectation of their accustomed -food. If this is carefully continued, they will remain plump and -healthy for two days. - -Terrapins also, and other shell fish, should have the salt and water -changed every twelve hours, and be fed with corn meal. - -Turtle must also be well fed, and allowed salted water to swim in. - - -STEWED OYSTERS.--Get two hundred or more fine large fresh oysters. Drain -them from their liquor, (saving it in a pitcher,) and put them into a -stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and set them over -the fire. When they have simmered, and have almost come to a boil, -remove them from the fire; and have ready a pan of very cold water. Take -out the oysters, (one at a time, on a fork,) and put them into the cold -water. This will plump them, and render them firm. Having saved about -half their liquor, put it into the stew-pan, seasoned well with blades -of mace, grated nutmeg, whole pepper-corns, and a little cayenne. Stir -in half a pint or more of thick rich cream; and if you cannot procure -cream, an equal quantity of nice fresh butter divided into bits, -slightly dredged with a very little flour. Boil the liquor by itself, -and when it comes to a boil, take the oysters out of the cold water, and -put them into the boiling liquor. In five minutes remove the pan from -the fire, (the oysters having simmered,) and transfer them to a tureen -or deep dish, in the bottom of which has been laid a buttered toast, -that has previously been dipped a minute in hot water or milk. - - -FRENCH STEWED OYSTERS.--Wash fifty fine large oysters in their own -liquor, then strain it into a stew-pan, putting the oysters in a pan of -cold water. Season the liquor with a large glass or half a pint of white -wine, (sherry or Madeira,) the juice of two lemons, six or seven blades -of mace, and a small grated nutmeg. Boil the seasoned liquor; and skim, -and stir it well. When it comes to a boil, put in the oysters. Give them -one good stir, and then immediately take them from the fire, transfer -them to a deep dish, and send them to table. They are not to boil. - -Many persons consider this the finest way of cooking oysters for -company. Try it. The oysters must be of the very best. - - -FRIED OYSTERS.--For frying, take only the largest and finest oysters. -They should be as fresh as you can get them. Salt oysters are not good -for frying. Take them out of their liquor, carefully, with a fork, -picking off whatever bits of shell may be about them. Dry them in a -clean napkin. Prepare some grated bread-crumbs, or pounded cracker, or -soda biscuit, seasoned with cayenne pepper. Have ready plenty of yolk of -egg beaten till very light; and to each egg allow a large tea-spoonful -of rich cream, or of the best fresh butter. Beat the egg and cream -together. Dip each oyster first into the egg, &c., and then into the -crumbs. Repeat this twice till the oysters are well-coated all over. -Have ready boiling, in a frying-pan, an equal mixture of fresh butter -and lard. It must come nearly to the edge or top of the frying-pan, and -be boiling fast when the oysters go in; otherwise they will be heavy and -greasy, and sink to the bottom. Fry them of a yellow brown on both -sides. Send them to table very hot. - -Oysters will be found much the best when fried in grated bread-crumbs. -Cracker-crumbs form a hard, tough coating that is very indigestible, and -also impairs the flavor. Use no salt in making the batter. Omit it -entirely. It overpowers the taste of the oysters. - - -OYSTER FRITTERS.--Allow to each egg a heaped table-spoonful of flour, -and a jill or small tea-cupful of milk. Beat the eggs till very light -and thick; then stir them, gradually, into the pan of milk, in turn with -the flour, a little at a time. Beat the whole very hard. Have ready the -oysters, that you may proceed immediately to baking the fritters. The -oysters should be fresh, and of the largest size. Having drained them -from their liquor, and dried them separately in a cloth, and dredged -them with flour, set over the fire a frying-pan nearly full of lard. -When it boils fast, put in a large spoonful of the batter. Then lay an -oyster upon it, and cover the oyster with another spoonful of batter. -Fry the fritters of a nice yellow. As they are done, take them up, drain -off the lard from the oysters, and keep them hot till they go to table. -This will be found a very fine receipt if _exactly_ followed. - - -CLAM FRITTERS.--Put a sufficient quantity of clams into a pot of boiling -water. The small sand-clam will be best. When the shells open wide, take -them out, extract the clams from the shells, and put them into a -stew-pan. Strain their liquor, and pour about half of it over the clams; -adding a little black pepper. They will require no salt. Let them stew, -slowly, for half an hour; then take them out; drain off all the liquor; -and mince the clams as fine as possible, omitting the hardest parts. You -should have as many clams as will make a large pint when minced. Make a -batter of seven eggs, beaten till very thick and light, and then mixed -gradually with a quart of milk, and a pint of sifted flour, stirred in -by degrees, and made perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Then, -gradually, mix the minced clams with the batter, and stir the whole very -hard. Have ready in a frying-pan over the fire, a sufficiency of boiling -lard. Put in, with a spoon, the batter so as to form fritters, and fry -them light brown. Drain them well when done and serve them up hot. - -Oyster fritters may be made as above: except that the oysters must be -minced raw, and mixed into the batter without having been stewed. - -_Soft-crab Fritters._--Use only the bodies of the crabs, and proceed as -above. - - -SCOLLOPED CLAMS.--Having boiled a quantity of small sand-clams till they -open of themselves, remove them from the shells. Drain away the liquor, -and chop them small, omitting the hardest parts. Season them with black -pepper and powdered mace, and mix them with grated bread-crumbs and -fresh butter. Get some large clean clam-shells, and fill them to the -edge with the above mixture, moistened with _a very little_ of the -liquor. Cover the surface with grated crumbs, and add to each one a -small bit of butter. Set them in an oven, and bake them light brown. -Send them to table in the shells they were baked in, arranged on large -dishes. They are eaten at breakfast and supper. Clams must always have -the shells washed before they are boiled. - -Oysters are frequently scolloped in this manner, minced, and served up -in large _clam_ shells. - -Boiled crabs, also, are cooked, minced, and prepared in this way, and -sent to table in the back-shell of the crab. - -All these scollops are improved by mixing among them some hard-boiled -eggs, minced or chopped; or some raw egg beaten. - - -ROASTED OYSTERS.--The old-fashioned way of roasting oysters is to lay -them on a hot hearth, and cover them in hot cinders or ashes, (taking -them out with tongs when done,) or to put them into a moderate fire. -When done, their shells will begin to open. The usual way now is to -broil them on large gridirons of strong wire. Serve them up in their -shells on large dishes, or on trays, at oyster suppers. At every plate -lay an oyster knife and a clean coarse towel, and between every two -chairs set a bucket to receive the empty shells. The gentlemen generally -save the ladies the trouble of opening the oysters, by performing that -office for them. - -Have on the table, to eat with the oysters, bread-rolls, biscuits, -butter, and glasses with sticks of celery scraped, and divested of the -green leaves at the top. Have also ale or porter. - -Or, you may take large oysters out of their shells, dredge them lightly -with flour, lay them separately on a wire gridiron, and broil them. -Serve them up on large dishes, with a morsel of fresh butter laid on -each oyster. - - -SCOLLOPED OYSTERS.--Drain the liquor from a sufficient quantity of fine -fresh oysters; and season them with blades of mace, grated nutmeg, and a -little cayenne. Lay about a dozen of them in the bottom of a deep dish. -Cut some slices of wheat bread, and put them to soak in a pan of the -oyster liquor (previously strained.) - -Soak the bread till it is soft throughout, but not dissolved. Cover the -oysters in the bottom of the dish, with some slices of the soaked bread, -(drained from the liquor,) and lay upon the bread a few small bits of -nice fresh butter. Then put in another layer of seasoned oysters; then -another layer of soaked bread with bits of butter dispersed upon it. -Repeat this with more layers of oysters, soaked bread, and bits of -butter, till the dish is full, finishing with a close layer of bread on -the top. Set this into a hot oven, and bake it, a short time only, or -till it is well browned on the surface. Oysters require but little -cooking, and this bread has had one baking already. The liquid that is -about the bread is sufficient. It requires no more. - -Scolloped oysters may be cooked in large, clean, clam-shells and served -up on great dishes. - - -PICKLED OYSTERS.--Take a hundred fine large oysters--set them over the -fire in their own liquor--add two ounces of nice fresh butter, and -simmer them slowly for ten minutes; skimming them well. If they boil -fast and long, they will become hard and shrivelled. Take them off the -fire and strain from them their liquor; spread the oysters out on large -dishes, and place them in the air to cool fast, or lay them in a broad -pan of cold water. This renders them firm. Strain the liquor, and then -mix with it an equal quantity of the best and purest clear -cider-vinegar. Season (if the oysters are fresh,) with a small -tea-spoonful of salt, two dozen whole pepper-corns, and a -table-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg, mixed. Let the liquor boil -till it is reduced to little more than enough to cover the oysters well. -Put the oysters into a tureen, or a broad stone jar. Pour the hot liquor -over them, and let them grow quite cold before they are eaten. You may -give them a fine tinge of pale pink color by adding to the liquor (while -boiling,) a little prepared cochineal. - - -PICKLED OYSTERS.--_For keeping._--Have five or six hundred oysters of -the finest sort and largest size. Proceed as in the foregoing receipt, -but increase, proportionately, the quantity of spice and vinegar. Put -them in stone-ware jars, securing the covers by pasting all round, bands -or strips of thick white paper; and place on each jar, on the top of the -liquor, a table-spoonful of salad oil. - -Use no other than _genuine cider-vinegar_. Much that is sold for the -best white-wine vinegar is in reality a deleterious compound of -pernicious drugs, that will eat up or dissolve the oysters entirely, -leaving nothing but a sickening whitish fluid. This vinegar is at first -so overpoweringly sharp and pungent, as to destroy, entirely, the taste -of the spices; and, while cooking, emits a disagreeable smell. The -oysters immediately become ragged, and in less than an hour are entirely -destroyed. This vinegar acts in the same manner on all other pickles, -and the use of it should always be shunned. - -_Drugs_ should not be employed in any sort of cookery, though their -introduction is now most lamentably frequent. They ruin the flavor and -are injurious to health. - - -OYSTER PATTIES.--Make sufficient puff-paste for at least a dozen small -patties. Roll it out thick, and line with it twelve small tin -patty-pans. Bake them brown in a brisk oven; and when done set them to -cool. Have ready two or three dozen large, fine, fresh oysters. Wash and -drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with no other liquid than just -enough of their own liquor to keep them from burning. Season them with -cayenne, nutmeg, and mace, and a few of the green tops or leaves of -celery sprigs minced small. Add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -divided into bits, and laid among the oysters. To enrich the gravy, stir -in, at the last, the beaten yolks of three or four eggs, or some thick -cream or butter. Let the oysters stew in this gravy about five minutes. -When the patties are beginning to cool, fill each with one or two large -oysters. If you choose, you can bake for every patty a small round lid -of pastry, to be laid lightly on the top, so as to cover the oysters -when they go to table. For company, make a large quantity of oyster -patties, as they are much liked. - - -OYSTER LOAVES.--Take some tall fresh rolls, or small loaves. Cut nicely -a round or oval hole in the top of each, saving the pieces that come -off. Then carefully scoop out most of the crumb from the inside, leaving -the crust standing. Have ready a sufficient quantity of large fresh -oysters. Put the oysters with one-fourth of their liquor into a -stew-pan; adding the bread-crumbs, a large piece of fresh butter, some -powdered nutmeg, and mace. Stew them about ten minutes. Then stir in two -or three large table-spoonfuls of cream; take them off just as they are -coming to a boil. If cooked too long the oysters will become tough and -shriveled, and the cream will curdle. Fill the inside of your scooped -loaves with the oysters, reserving as many large oysters as you have -loaves. Place the bit of upper-crust carefully on the top of each, so as -to cover the whole. Arrange them on a dish, and lay on each lid one of -the large oysters kept out for the purpose. These ornamental oysters -must be well drained from any liquid that is about them. - - -OYSTER OMELET.--Having strained the liquor from twenty-five oysters of -the largest size, mince them small; omitting the hard part or gristle. -If you cannot get large oysters, you should have forty or fifty small -ones. Break into a shallow pan six, seven, or eight eggs, according to -the quantity of minced oysters. Omit half the whites, and, (having -beaten the eggs till very light, thick, and smooth,) mix the oysters -gradually into them, adding a little cayenne pepper, and some powdered -nutmeg. Put three ounces or more of the best fresh butter into a small -frying-pan, if you have no pan especially for omelets. Place it over a -clear fire, and when the butter, (which should be previously cut up,) -has come to a boil, put in the omelet-mixture; stir it till it begins to -set; and fry it light brown, lifting the edge several times by slipping -a knife under it, and taking care not to cook it too much or it will -shrivel and become tough. When done, clap a large hot plate or dish on -the top of the omelet, and turn it quickly and carefully out of the pan. -Serve it up immediately. It is a fine breakfast dish. This quantity will -make one large or two small omelets. - -Clam omelets may be made as above. - -An omelet pan should be smaller than a common frying-pan, and lined with -tin. In a large pan the omelet will spread too much, and become thin -like a pancake. - -Never turn an omelet while frying, as that will make it heavy and tough. -When done, brown it by holding a red-hot shovel or salamander close -above the top. - -Excellent omelets may be made of cold boiled ham, or smoked tongue; -grated or minced small, mixed with a sufficiency of beaten eggs, and -fried in butter. - - -BROILED OYSTERS.--Take the largest and finest oysters. See that your -gridiron is very clean. Rub the bars with fresh butter, and set it over -a clear steady fire, entirely free from smoke; or on a bed of bright hot -wood coals. Place the oysters on the gridiron, and when done on one -side, take a fork and turn them on the other; being careful not to let -them burn. Put some fresh butter in the bottom of a dish. Lay the -oysters on it, and season them with pepper and grated nutmeg. Send them -to table hot. - - -OYSTER PIE.--Having buttered the inside of a deep dish, line it with -puff-paste rolled out rather thick; and prepare another sheet of paste -for the lid. Pat a clean towel into the dish (folded so as to support -the lid) and then put on the lid; set it into the oven, and bake the -paste well. When done, remove the lid, and take out the folded towel. -While the paste is baking, prepare the oysters. Having picked off -carefully any bits of shell that may be found about them, lay them in a -sieve and drain off the liquor into a pan. Put the oysters into a -skillet or stew-pan, with barely enough of the liquor to keep them from -burning. Season them with whole pepper, blades of mace, some grated -nutmeg, and some grated lemon-peel, (the yellow rind only,) and a little -finely minced celery. Then add a large portion of fresh butter, divided -into bits, and very slightly dredged with flour. Let the oysters simmer -over the fire, but do not allow them to come to a boil, as that will -shrivel them. Next beat the yolks only, of three, four, or five eggs, -(in proportion to the size of the pie,) and stir the beaten egg into -the stew a few minutes before you take it from the fire. Keep it warm -till the paste is baked. Then carefully remove the lid of the pie; and -replace it, after you have filled the dish with the oysters and gravy. - -The lid of the pie may be ornamented with a wreath of leaves cut out of -paste, and put on before baking. In the centre, place a paste-knot or -flower. - -Oyster pies are generally eaten warm; but they are very good cold. - - -CLAM PIE.--Take a sufficient number of clams to fill a large pie-dish -when opened. Make a nice paste in the proportion of a pound of fresh -butter to two quarts of flour. Paste for shell fish, or meat, or chicken -pies, should be rolled out double the thickness of that intended for -fruit pies. Line the sides and bottom of your pie-dish with paste. Then -cover the bottom with a thin beef steak, divested of bone and fat. Put -in the clams, and season them with mace, nutmeg, and a few whole -pepper-corns. No salt. Add a spoonful of butter rolled in flour, and -some hard-boiled yolks of eggs crumbled fine. Then put in enough of the -clam liquor to make sufficient gravy. Put on the lid of the pie, (which, -like the bottom crust, should be rolled out thick,) notch it handsomely, -and bake it well. It should be eaten warm. - - -SOFT CRABS.--These are crabs that, having cast their old shells, have -not yet assumed the new ones. In this, the transition state, they are -considered delicacies. Put them into fast-boiling water, and boil them -for ten minutes. Then take them out, drain them, wipe them very clean, -and prepare them for frying by removing the spongy part inside and the -sand-bag. Put plenty of fresh lard into a pan; and when it boils fast, -lay in the crabs, and fry them well, seasoning them with cayenne. As -soon as they are done of a nice golden color, take them out, drain off -the lard back into the pan, and lay them on a large _hot_ dish. Cover -them to keep warm while you fry, in the same lard, all the best part of -a fresh lettuce, chopped small. Let it fry only long enough to become -hot throughout. When you serve up the crabs cover them with the fried -lettuce. Stir into the gravy some cream, or a piece of nice fresh butter -rolled in flour; and send it to table in a sauce-boat, seasoned with a -little cayenne. - -Soft crabs require no other flavoring. They make a nice breakfast-dish -for company. Only the large claws are eaten, therefore break off as -useless the small ones. - -Instead of lettuce, you may fry the crabs with parsley--removed from the -pan before it becomes brown. Pepper-grass is still better. - - -TERRAPINS.--In buying terrapins select the largest and thickest. Like -all other delicacies, the best are the cheapest in the end. Small poor -terrapins are not worth the cost of the seasoning. A poor terrapin, -poorly dressed, is indeed a poor thing, and is always recognized as -such, by those who are expected to eat it. _Get fine terrapins only._ -Put them into a pot of water that is boiling very hard at the time, and -let them boil for about ten minutes. Immediately on taking them out, -proceed to rub, with a coarse clean cloth, all the skin from the head, -neck, and claws--also, the thin shell, as it comes loose. Having washed -them in warm water, put the terrapins into a clean pot with fresh water, -and a table-spoonful of salt, and boil them again till they are -thoroughly done, and the paws are perfectly soft. Remove the toe-nails. -Some terrapins require three hours. When they are quite soft, open them -carefully, remove the spongy part, the sand-bag, the gall, and the -entrails--it being now the custom to throw away the whole of the -disgusting garbage, always tasteless, tough, and disagreeable to look -at. Be careful not to break the gall, as it will give an unpleasant -bitter taste to the whole. Cut into small pieces all the meat of the -terrapins, put them into a stew-pan, (adding the juice they have yielded -in cutting up, _but no water_,) and proceed to season them, beginning -with cayenne and black pepper, to your taste; also, a handful of flour -for the thickening. Stir all well together, and in a short time add four -table-spoonfuls of cream, or fresh butter, and a half pint of Madeira or -sherry to every four terrapins. If they have no eggs, make up some -artificially; crumbling the yolks of hard-boiled common eggs, mashed to -a paste with a little nice butter, and then made into balls with beaten -raw egg. Add plenty of these to the stew, and let the whole cook -together for a quarter of an hour longer. Serve it up hot, in a well -heated covered dish. - -Four fine large terrapins generally make one dish; and the above is the -usual quantity of seasoning for them. - - -NEW WAY OF DRESSING TERRAPINS.--In buying terrapins, select those only -that are large, fat, and thick-bodied. Put them whole into water that is -boiling hard at the time, and (adding a little salt) boil them till -thoroughly done throughout. Then, taking off the shell, extract the -meat, and remove carefully the sand-bag and gall; also, _all the -entrails_,--they are disgusting, unfit to eat, and are no longer served -up in cooking terrapin for the best tables. Cut the meat into pieces, -and put it into a stew-pan with its eggs, and sufficient fresh butter to -stew it well. Let it stew till quite hot throughout, keeping the pan -carefully covered that none of the flavor may escape; but shake it over -the fire while stewing. In another pan, make a sauce of beaten yolk of -egg, highly flavored with Madeira or sherry, and powdered nutmeg and -mace, and enriched with a large lump of fresh butter. Stir this sauce -well over the fire, and when it has _almost_ come to a boil, take it -off. Send the terrapin to table hot in a covered dish, and the sauce -_separately_ in a sauce-tureen, to be used by those who like it, and -omitted by those who prefer the genuine flavor of the terrapin when -simply stewed with butter. - -This is now the usual mode of dressing terrapins in Maryland and -Virginia, and will be found superior to any other. - -No dish of terrapins can be good unless the terrapins themselves are of -the best quality. It is mistaken economy to buy poor ones. Besides being -insipid and tasteless, it takes more in number to fill a dish. The -females are the best. - - -A TERRAPIN POT-PIE.--Take several fine large terrapins, the fattest and -thickest you can get. Put them into a large pot of water that is boiling -hard; and boil them half an hour or more. Then take them out of the -shell, pulling off the outer skin and the toe-nails. Remove the sand-bag -and the gall, taking care not to break it, or it will render the whole -too bitter to be eaten. Take out also the entrails, and throw them away; -as the custom of cooking them is now, very properly, exploded. Then cut -up all the meat of the terrapins, taking care to save all the liquid -that exudes in cutting up, and also the eggs. Season the whole with -pepper, mace, and nutmeg, adding a little salt; and lay among it pieces -of fresh butter slightly rolled in flour. - -Have ready an ample quantity of paste, made in the proportion of a pound -of butter to two large quarts (or pounds) of flour, or a pound and a -half of butter to three quarts of flour, and rolled out thick. Butter -the inside of an iron pot, and line the sides with paste, till it -reaches within one-third of the top. Then put in the pieces of terrapin, -with the eggs, butter, &c., and with all the liquid. Lay among the -terrapin, square pieces of paste. Then pour in sufficient water to stew -the whole properly. Next, cover all with a circular lid, or top-crust of -paste, but do not fit it so closely that the gravy cannot bubble up over -the edges while cooking. Cut a small cross slit in the top crust. Place -the pot, with the pie, over a good fire, and boil it till the whole is -thoroughly done, which will be in from three quarters to an hour after -it comes to a boil. Take care not to let it get too dry, but keep at -hand a kettle of boiling water to replenish the pot when necessary. To -ascertain if the pie is done, lift up with a fork a little of the paste, -at one side, and try it low down in the pot. - -It may be much improved, by mixing among the pieces of terrapins, -(before putting them into the pie,) some yolks of hard-boiled eggs, -grated or minced. They will enrich the gravy. - -A pot-pie may be made, (a very fine one too,) of some of the best pieces -of a green turtle. - - -A SEA-COAST PIE.--Having boiled a sufficient number of crabs and -lobsters, extract all the meat from the shells, and cut it into -mouthfuls. Have ready some fine large oysters drained from the liquor. -Cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish with puff-paste; and put in a -thick layer of crab or lobster, seasoned with a little cayenne pepper, -and a grated lemon-peel. Mix it with some hard-boiled yolk of egg, -crumbled fine, and moistened with fresh butter. Next, put a close layer -of oysters, seasoned with pounded mace and grated nutmeg. Put some bits -of butter rolled in flour on the top of the layer. Proceed in this -manner with alternate layers of crab or lobster, and of oysters, till -the dish is nearly full. Then pour in, at the last, a tea-cupful or more -of the oyster liquor, with an equal quantity of rich cream. Have ready a -thick lid of puff-paste. Put it on the pie, pressing the edges closely, -so as to unite them all round; and notch them handsomely. Make a wreath -of leaves cut out of paste, and a flower or knot for the centre; place -them on the top-crust; and bake the pie well. While it is baking, -prepare some balls made of chopped oysters; grated bread-crumbs; -powdered nutmeg, or mace; and grated lemon-peel; also, some hard-boiled -yolks of eggs, grated. Having fried these balls in butter, drain them, -and when the pie is baked, lay a circle of them round the top, between -the border of paste-leaves and the centre-knot. - -This pie will be found so fine that it ought to be baked in a dish -which will contain a large quantity. - - -TO DRESS A TURTLE.--The turtle should be taken out of water, and killed -over night in winter, and early in the morning in summer. Hang it up by -the hind fins, and before it has had time to draw in its neck, cut off -its head with a very sharp knife, and leave the turtle suspended. It -should bleed two or three hours or more, before you begin to cut it up. -Then lay it on its back upon a table: have at hand several vessels of -cold water, in which to throw the most important parts as you separate -them; also a large boiler of hot water. Take off the fins at the joint, -and lay them by themselves in cold water; next divide the back-shell -from the under-shell. The upper part of the turtle is called the -calipash--the under part the calipee. In cutting open the turtle, be -very careful not to break the gall, which should be taken out and thrown -away; if broken, its bitterness will spoil all around it. Take out the -entrails and throw them away. The practice of cooking them is now -obsolete. So it is with the entrails of terrapins. Using a sharp knife, -cut off the fins carefully, also the liver, lungs, heart, kidneys, &c. -Wash them well, and lay them in a pan of cold water, the liver in a pan -by itself. If there are eggs, put them also into cold water. Having -extracted the intestines, stand up the turtle on end, to let the blood -run out. Afterwards cut out all the flesh from the upper and under -shells, and remove the bones. Cut the calipee (or meat belonging to the -under-shell) into pieces about as large as the palm of your hand, and -break the shell. The calipash, or meat next the back-shell, may be cut -smaller--the green fat into pieces about two inches square. Put all the -meat into a large pan, sprinkle it slightly with salt, and cover it up. -Lay the shells and fins in a tub of boiling water, and scald them till -the scales can be scraped off with a knife, and all the meat that still -adheres to the shells easily removed, as it is worth saving. Clean the -fins nicely, (taking off the dark skin,) and lay them in cold water. -Wipe the back-shell dry, and set it aside. Then proceed to make the -soup. For this purpose, take the coarser pieces of flesh with the bone -likewise. Put them into a pot with a pound of cold ham cut into pieces, -and eight large calves'-feet (two sets) that have been singed and -scraped, but not skinned. If you cannot conveniently obtain -calves'-feet, substitute a large fore-leg or knuckle of veal. Add four -onions, sliced thin; two tablespoonfuls of sweet-marjoram leaves; a -large bunch of basil; a dozen blades of mace; and a salt-spoon of -cayenne. The ham will make any other salt unnecessary. Pour on as much -water as will completely cover the whole, and let it simmer slowly over -a steady fire during five hours, skimming it well. If after a while the -soup seems to be boiling away too much, replenish it with a little hot -water from a kettle, kept boiling hard for the purpose. When it has -simmered five hours, take up the whole, and strain the soup through a -sieve into a deep pan. Wash out the soup-pot with hot water, and return -the strained soup to it, with the liver, &c., cut in small pieces, and -some of the best of the meat, and a portion of the green fat. Have ready -two or three dozen force-meat balls, the size of a hickory nut, and made -of the usual proportions of minced veal, bread-crumbs, butter, grated -lemon-peel, mace, nutmeg, and beaten yolk of egg. Put them into the -soup, and let it boil an hour longer; also the eggs of the turtle, or -some hard-boiled yolks of eggs. After it has thus boiled another hour, -add the juice and grated yellow rinds of two lemons, and a pint of -Madeira. Boil the soup a quarter of an hour longer, and it will then be -ready for the tureen. It must never boil hard. - -In the mean time, stew in another pot the finest of the turtle-meat, -seasoned with a little salt and cayenne, and a liberal allowance of -sweet-marjoram leaves rubbed fine, and mixed with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Add a pound of fresh butter, cut into pieces and rolled in -flour. When the turtle-meat has stewed an hour, put in the green fat, -and add the juice and grated yellow rinds of two lemons, and a pint or -more of Madeira, and let the whole stew slowly an hour longer. While the -meat is stewing, take the shell of the back; wash it clean, and wipe it -dry; lay a band of puff-paste all round the inside of the shell, two -inches below the edge, and two inches above it. Notch the paste -handsomely, and fill the shell with the stewed turtle. Have ready the -oven, heated as if for bread. Lay a large iron baking-sheet or a square -pan upon four bricks (one at each corner) to elevate the turtle-shell -from the floor of the oven. Place on it the shell with its contents, and -let it bake till well browned on the surface. Send it to table with the -shell placed on a large dish. At the other end set the tureen of soup. -Have ready (on two side dishes) the fins stewed tender in a little of -the soup, and the liver fried in butter. - -This receipt is for a turtle of moderate size. A large one will, of -course, require an increased proportion of all the articles used in -seasoning it--more wine, &c. In serving up turtle at a dinner-party, let -it constitute the first course, and have nothing else on the table while -the turtle is there. - -We have seen elegant silver turtle-dishes, representing the back-shell -of the animal, superbly chased and engraved, the feet for it to stand on -being paws of silver; and the fins having hollow places to hold the -sauce. This was for the stew; making a dish separate from the soup, -which is always sent to table in a tureen. - - -TURTLE PASTY.--When the meat has been all extracted, scrape and wash the -large back shell of the turtle till it is perfectly clean. Make a rich -puff-paste. Roll it out thin, and line with it the bottom and sides, in -fact the whole of the back-shell. Having prepared and seasoned the best -pieces of the turtle-meat, as in the preceding receipt, stew them till -thoroughly done, and very tender, and when cool, fill the shell with -them. Have ready an upper lid of the same puff-paste, rolled out rather -_thick_. Cover the pie with it. Unite the edges of the upper and under -crusts, very neatly, wetting your fingers with water. Then notch them -handsomely all round, and cut a cross slit in the centre of the top or -cover. Set it directly into a rather quick oven. Bake the crust of a -light brown, and send it to table hot. - - -LOBSTERS.--If you buy a lobster ready boiled, see that his tail is stiff -and elastic, so that when you bend it under, it springs back -immediately; otherwise he is not fresh. If alive or unboiled, he will be -lively and brisk in his motion when newly caught. The same with prawns, -and crabs. - -The heaviest lobsters are the best. - -To boil a lobster, have ready a pot of fast-boiling water, very strongly -salted. Put in the lobster head downward; and if the water is really hot -(it is cruel to have it otherwise,) he will be dead in a moment. Crabs, -of course, the same. A moderate sized lobster (and they are the best,) -will be done in half an hour. A large one requires from three-quarters -to an hour. Before it is sent to table, the large claws should be taken -off, and laid beside it. The head also should be separated from the -body, but laid so near it that the division is nearly imperceptible. The -head is never eaten. Split the body, and lay it open all the way down, -including the tail. If there is a good dresser of salads in the house, -the lobster may be served up ready dressed, in a deep dish, seasoned -with the proper condiments, after being cut small or minced, heaped up -towards the centre of the dish, and decorated with the small claws laid -across on the top, with the addition of green celery leaves, or parsley -sprigs. - - -LOBSTER SALAD--(_plain_.)--Take a well boiled lobster. Extract all the -meat from the body and claws, cut it up small, and mash the coral with -the back of a spoon or a broad knife. Wash the best part of a fresh -lettuce, and cut that up also, omitting all the stalk. Mix together the -chopped lobster and the lettuce, and put them into a salad bowl. Make -the dressing in a deep plate, allowing for one lobster a salt-spoon of -salt, half as much of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, (tarragon -mustard is best,) four table-spoonfuls (or more) of sweet oil, and three -table-spoonfuls of the best cider vinegar. Mix all these together, with -the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, mashed to a soft moist paste with -the other ingredients, adding the coral of the lobster. When they are -all mixed smoothly, add them to the lobster and lettuce. If the mixture -seems too dry, add more sweet oil. Toss and stir the salad with a -box-wood fork. Also, the things should be mashed with a box-wood spoon. -Cover, and set it in a cool place till wanted. It should be eaten as -soon as possible after mixing, as it becomes flat by standing. - -Plenty of sweet oil renders a lobster wholesome. Still, persons who are -not in good health, had best abstain from lobster. - -You may add to the dressing, one or two raw yolks of eggs, beaten well. - - -FINE LOBSTER SALAD--(_This is for company._)--Boil eight eggs for ten -minutes, or till quite hard. Lay them in cold water, or cool them by -laying bits of ice among them. When quite cold, cut each egg lengthways -into four or six pieces, taking a bit off one end of each piece or -slice. Cut up into long pieces the best part of a fresh lettuce, that -has just been washed in a pan of cold water. Lay the lettuce in a dish, -and surround it closely with the pieces of egg standing up on their -blunted ends, with the yolk side outward, and forming a handsome wall -all round the bed of lettuce. Upon this, pile neatly the bits of chopped -lobster, finishing with the small claws stuck into the top. Have ready -the dressing in a sauce-tureen. Make it of the beaten yolks of two raw -eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, thickened with the mashed -coral of the lobster, and the crumbled yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, -and season slightly with a little salt, cayenne, and a spoonful of -tarragon mustard. Finish with two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and stir -the whole hard with a box-wood spoon or fork. Send it to table with the -sauce-tureen, along with the dish of lobster, &c. Pour on each plate of -lobster a portion of this dressing. Or, if you can obtain no lettuce, -mix this dressing at once with the chopped meat of the lobster. Smooth -it in a pile on the dish, (keeping it towards the centre) and stand up -the slips of hard egg handsomely surrounding it--the small claws -decorating the top. - - -LOBSTER RISSOLES.--Extract all the meat from the shells of one or two -boiled lobsters. Mince it very fine; the coral also. Season it with a -little salt and cayenne, and some powdered mace and nutmeg. Add about a -fourth part of finely grated bread-crumbs; and with a sufficiency of -fresh butter or a little finely-minced veal suet, or some sweet oil, -make it up into balls or cones. Brush them over with yolk of egg, dredge -them lightly with flour, and fry them in lard. Introduce them as a side -dish at a dinner party, or as an accompaniment to salmon. - -This mixture may be baked in puff-paste as little patties, or you may -bake in a soup-plate an empty shell of paste, and when done, (having -stewed the rissole mixture made moist) fill the cold paste with it, and -serve it up as a lobster pie. - -In buying lobsters, choose those that are the heaviest and liveliest, or -quickest in their motions when touched. They are then fresh. The hen has -the broadest tail and the softest fins. - - -LOBSTER PUDDING.--Take the empty back shell of one large boiled lobster, -and all the best meat of two. Clean out the shell very nicely; washing -it, and wiping it dry. Mince the meat, and mash the coral with it; -adding half a dozen yolks of hard-boiled eggs crumbled among it, and -season it well with powdered mace and nutmeg, and a little cayenne. -Moisten it all through with plenty of sweet oil, and the raw yolks of -one or two eggs, well beaten. Fill the shell with this pudding, and -cover the surface of the mixture with a coating of finely-grated -bread-crumbs. Brown it by holding over it a salamander, or a red hot -fire-shovel. Send it to table in the shell, laid on a china dish. - -Small puddings may be made as above, of crab-meat put into several large -crab-shells, and placed side by side on a dish. - -They may be eaten either warm or cold; and they look well with green -lettuce or pepper-grass, disposed fancifully among them. - - -CRABS.--Crabs are seldom eaten except at the sea-shore, where there is a -certainty of their being fresh from the water. They are very abundant, -but so little is in them, that when better things are to be had, they -are scarcely worth the trouble of boiling and picking out the shell. -They are cooked like lobsters, in boiling salt and water, and brought to -table piled on large dishes, and are eaten with salt, pepper, sweet oil, -and vinegar. The meat of two dozen crabs, when all is extracted, will -make but a small dish. Season it with cayenne, mustard, oil, vinegar, -and eat it cold; or stew it with fresh butter, powdered mace, and -nutmeg, and serve it up hot. - -_Prawns._--The same. - - -SHRIMPS.--Of all fish belonging to the lobster species, shrimps are the -smallest. In England, where they abound, they are sold by the quart, -ready boiled. The way to eat them is to pull off the head, and squeeze -the body out of the shell by pressing it between your fore-finger and -thumb. At good tables they are only used as sauce for large fish, -squeezed out of the shell, and stirred into melted butter. - - -LOBSTER SAUCE.--Take a small hen lobster that has been well boiled. -Extract all the meat, and chop it large. Take out the coral, and pound -it smooth in a marble mortar, adding, as you proceed, sufficient sweet -oil. Make some nice drawn butter, allowing half a pound of nice fresh -butter to two heaped table-spoonfuls of flour, and a pint of hot water. -Mix the butter and flour thoroughly, and then gradually add to them the -coral, so as to give a fine color. Then mix this with a small pint of -boiling water. Hold the saucepan over the fire, (shaking it about till -it simmers) but do not let it quite boil. Put in the chopped lobster, -and let that simmer in the sauce, till well heated. To allow it to boil -will spoil the color, (which should be pale pink,) and may be improved -by a little prepared cochineal. Or, you may tie, in a small bit of thin -muslin, a few chips of alkanet, and put it into the sauce, (taking it -out, of course, before it goes to table.) Alkanet communicates a -beautiful pink color, and has no taste in itself. - -This quantity of sauce is for a large fish--salmon, cod, turbot, or -sheep's head. There should always be an ample supply of sauce. It is -very awkward for the sauce to give out, before it has gone round the -company. - - - - -BEEF. - - -ROASTING BEEF.--The prime piece of beef for roasting is the sirloin; but -being too large for a small family, the ribs are generally preferred, -when there are but few persons to eat of it. So also is the baron, or -double sirloin, undivided along the back. It is chiefly seen at great -dinners. Except the sirloin and ribs, there are no very good roasting -pieces, all the rest being generally used for stews, soups, &c., and for -corning or salting. Unless the animal is a very fine one, the inferior -pieces are apt to be tough, hard, and coarse. The round is the best -piece for corning or salting, and for cooking, as beef _a-la-mode_, or -converting into what, in England, is called rump-steaks. These steaks -require a rolling-pin, before they can be made tender enough for good -eating, or good digestion. The finest and tenderest steaks are those cut -from the sirloin. The meat of a young well-fed heifer is very good; and -that of an old ox, (that has done working, and afterwards been fattened -well on plenty of wholesome food,) may be made of superior excellence. -The lean of good fresh beef is of a bright red color, a fine close -grain, and feels tender to the touch on pinching it between your thumb -and finger. The fat is firm and very nearly white. The suet about the -kidney, firm and quite white. If, on the contrary, the lean is coarse, -tough, and of a dull color, and the fat scanty, yellow, and moist, do -not buy that meat for any purpose. The same rules will apply to mutton. -If the weather is so cold that the meat is frozen, thaw it by lying it -all night or early in the morning in a tub of _cold_ water. If thawed in -water the least warm, the meat will spoil, and be rendered unfit to eat. -Meat that has been frozen, requires a much longer time to cook, than if -that accident had not happened. _All_ frozen animals must be thawed in -cold water previous to cooking. Cold roast-beef is much liked in -England. In America, where meat is more abundant, and therefore less -costly, it is not considered a proper dish to place before a visitor; -therefore, in our country, a large piece is seldom cooked with a view to -next day's dinner. We prefer smaller pieces, always served up fresh and -hot. Beef for roasting, should be well washed in plenty of cold water; -then dried with a clean cloth. Prepare the fire, in time to be burning -well, when the meat is put down. It should have plenty of hot coals, and -no part of the fire black, ashy, or smoky, and the hearth swept very -clean: _for no sweeping must go on while the meat (or any thing else) is -cooking_. The spit should always be kept perfectly clean, when not in -use; and well washed, wiped, and rubbed immediately after using. Run it -evenly into the meat, which will hang crooked if not well balanced. When -first put down, take care not to set it at once too close to the fire, -but place it rather more than two feet distant, that the meat may heat -gradually. If too near the fire at first, the outside will scorch, and -leave the inside red and bloody. Underdone meat (foolishly called -_rare_) is getting quite out of fashion, being unwholesome and -indigestible, and to most Americans its savour is disgusting. To ladies -and children it is always so, and even the English have ceased to like -it. It is now seldom seen but at those public tables, where they -consider it an object to have as little meat as possible eaten on the -first day, that more may be left for the second day, to be made into -indescribable messes, with ridiculous French names, and passed off as -French dishes, by the so-called French cook, who is frequently an -Irishman. - -At first, baste the meat as soon as it begins to roast, with a little -fresh butter, or fresh dripping saved from yesterday's beef. Then, when -its own fat begins to drip, baste it with that, all the while it is -cooking. Gradually move it nearer to the fire, turning the spit round -frequently, so that the meat may be cooked equally on all sides. When it -is nearly done, sprinkle it slightly, with a little salt. When it is -quite done, and you take it from the spit, put it on a large hot dish, -and keep it warm while you skim the gravy, thoroughly, so as to remove -_all_ the fat. Then mix in the gravy a small tea-cup full of hot water, -and thicken it with a very little browned flour. Send it to table very -hot. - -As a general rule, a sirloin, weighing fifteen pounds, will require -about four hours (or more) before a good steady fire. If it has been -frozen, it will take much longer. The fatter it is the more cooking it -will require. When sent to table, place near it, a small sauce-shell of -horse-radish, washed, scraped fine, and moistened with the best vinegar. -Put a tea-spoon on the top to take it with. Pickles, and a bottle of -French mustard, at good tables, are generally accompaniments to beef or -mutton, whether roasted or boiled. - -The dripping of roast beef, after all the fat has been removed, and the -basting of the meat is over, should be strained into a pan, and kept in -a cold place, with a cover; and next day, when it is congealed into a -cake, scrape off whatever impurities may still adhere to the bottom, -transfer it to a covered jar, and set it in the refrigerator, or where -it will be cold. The dripping of roast beef is excellent for frying, for -plain pie-crust, or for many other purposes. The dripping of mutton -(being tallow) is only fit for soap-fat, and will spoil any dish -whatever. - - -BROILED BEEF STEAKS.--The best steaks are those from the tender-loin. -Those from the round or rump require beating with a rolling-pin. A -steak-mallet tears them and destroys the juices of the meat. Without -beating they will generally be found too tough or hard for an American -taste, though much liked in Europe, where tender-loin steaks are -considered too expensive. But they are here so much preferred, that, on -good tables, any others are seldom seen. Have all the steaks nearly of a -size and shape, and about half an inch thick. Trim off the fat, and cut -short the bone, or remove it altogether. Season them with black pepper, -but sprinkle on no salt till they have done cooking; as salt, if put on -at first, hardens them. Set your gridiron over a bed of bright clear -coals, having first rubbed the bars with a very little beef suet, or -dripping. Not mutton fat, as it will give the taste of tallow. - -A beef steak cannot be cooked in perfection unless over wood coals. To -cook them before an anthracite fire, on an upright gridiron, is more -like toasting than broiling, and much impairs the true flavor. A -gridiron of the usual shape, with grooved or hollow bars to catch the -gravy, is best of all. Broil the steaks well; and when done on one side, -turn each steak with steak tongs; or a knife and fork, and an inverted -plate. - -If onions are liked, peel and boil a few; drain and mince them, and -sprinkle them thickly over the surface of each steak. When they are -well done, take them off the gridiron, and transfer them to a heated -dish, laying a small bit of butter upon it; and put another bit of -butter on the surface of each steak, having first sprinkled them with a -very little fine salt. What there is of their own gravy, pour round them -on the dish. Send it to table as hot as possible. - -The English custom of eating what is called _rare_ or underdone beef or -mutton, is now becoming obsolete. To ladies, especially, all food is -disgusting that is red and bloody-looking--and physicians have -discovered, that nothing is wholesome unless well cooked. The -introduction of French cookery has done that much good. - -The onions may be stewed in butter or gravy, and served up in a -sauce-boat, seasoned with nutmeg. At the famous beef-steak club of -London, each guest is furnished with a small raw onion, to take on his -fork, and rub over his empty plate, just before the steaks are served -up, which is done one at a time, and as hot as possible, being cooked in -the room. - - -FRIED BEEF STEAKS.--Sirloin steaks should be tender enough without -beating. Rump steaks will require some; but do not beat them so much as -to tear the meat and exhaust all its juices. We have seen them pounded -almost into a mass of dry shreds, scarcely adhering together. Remove the -fat and bone. Lay them in a frying-pan, with a little fresh butter -dredged with flour, and season them with pepper. Fry them brown, -turning them on both sides. Have ready some onions, peeled, washed, and -sliced. After you have turned the steaks, cover them with the sliced -onions, and then finish the frying, till all is thoroughly done, meat -and onions, slightly sprinkling them with salt. The onions had best be -boiled in a small sauce-pan by themselves, before they are sliced and -fried. - -Put the whole on one dish, the onions covering the meat. - -Mutton chops, or veal cutlets, or pork steaks, may be fried in this -manner with onions, adding to them some minced sweet marjoram, or if -pork, some sage. - - -BEEF STEAK WITH OYSTERS.--Take very fine tender sirloin steak, divested -of fat and bone; cut them not larger than the palm of your hand; lay -them in a stew-pan with some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. -Strain over them sufficient oyster-liquor to cook them well, and to keep -them from burning, and to make a gravy so as to stew, but not to boil -them. Season them with some blades of mace, some grated nutmeg, and a -few whole pepper-corns. Let them cook till they are thoroughly done, and -not the least red. Then put in some fine large oysters. Set the stew-pan -again over the fire till the oysters are plump, which should be in about -five or six minutes. If cooked too much, the oysters will toughen and -shrink. When done, transfer the whole to a deep dish, mixing the oysters -evenly among the meat. Before you take them up, make some sippet or -thin toast, in triangular or pointed slices, with the crust cut off. Dip -the slices (for a minute) in boiling water; then take them out, and -stand them in a circle all round the inside of the dish, the points of -the sippets upwards. - - -CORNED OR SALTED BEEF.--For boiling, there is no piece of corned beef so -good, and so profitable, as the round. A large round is always better -and more tender than a small one, if the ox has been well fed. A small -round of beef is generally tough. In buying it, see that it looks and -smells well, as sometimes beef is not salted till it begins to taint; -and then it is done, with a view of disguising its unwholesome and -disgusting condition, which, however, will immediately be manifest as -soon as it is put on to boil, if not before. Every sort of food, the -least verging on decomposition, is unfit for any thing but to throw away -or bury. It is not necessary to buy always a whole round of beef. You -can have it cut into a half, third part, quarter, or into as many pounds -as you want. If very salt, lay it to soak in cold water the night -before, or early in the morning. Half a round (weighing about fifteen -pounds) will require about four hours to boil sufficiently. A whole -round, double that time. It must boil very slowly. If it boils too fast -at first, nothing will afterwards make it tender. The fire must be -steady, and moderate, that the heat may penetrate all through, slowly -and equally. The pot must be kept closely covered, unless for a minute -when the scum is taken off, and that must be done frequently. The beef -should, while boiling, be turned several times in the pot. It is much -the best way to boil it without any vegetables in the same pot; they -imbibe too much of the fat, particularly cabbage. Boil the cabbage by -itself in plenty of water, having first washed it well, laid it a while -in cold water, with the head downwards, and examined it well to see if -there are no insects between the leaves. The leaves on the very outside, -should be removed, and the stalk cut short. Tie a string round the -cabbage to keep it from falling apart. Put it into a pot with plenty of -cold water, and boil it an hour. Then take it out, drain it, and lay it -in a pan of cold water, or place it under the hydrant, for the hydrant -water to run copiously upon it. - -When the cabbage is perfectly cold, wash out the pot in which it was -parboiled, or put it into another quite clean one, and boil it another -hour. Then take it up, and keep it warm till wanted. Before you send it -to table, lay some bits of nice fresh butter between the inside leaves, -and sprinkle on a little pepper. This is much nicer than preparing what -is called drawn or melted butter to pour over the cabbage, and far more -wholesome. Drawn butter is seldom well made, being frequently little -more than a small morsel of butter, deluged with greasy water; and -sometimes it is nearly all flour and water. Cabbage cooked as above will -be found excellent, and be divested of the cabbage smell which is to -many persons disagreeable. - -Carrots are also an usual accompaniment to corned beef. They should be -washed, scraped, cut into pieces, and split, if very large; put into -boiling water, and cooked, according to their size, from one hour to two -hours. Before taking them up, try with a fork if they are tender -throughout. When done, they are best cut into slices, a little cold -butter mixed with them, and put into a deep dish, to be helped with a -spoon. - -Parsnips may be dressed in the same manner. - -For a plain family dinner, corned beef, cabbage, and carrots, cooked -_exactly_ as above, with, of course, the addition of potatos, will, on -trial, be found excellent. - -Corned beef _stewed_ very slowly, in a small quantity of water, (barely -sufficient to cover the meat,) well skimmed, and with the vegetables -done separately, is still better than when _boiled_. Mustard is a good -condiment for corned beef--so is vinegar to the cabbage. Pickles, also; -French mustard is very fine with it. - -Next to the round, the edgebone is the best piece for boiling. The -brisket or plate is too fat, and should only be eaten by persons in -strong health, and who take a great deal of exercise. No fat meat should -be given to children. Indeed there is generally great difficulty in -making them eat it. They are right, as it is very unwholesome for them, -unless the very leanest bits are selected from among the mass of fat. - -Have tarragon vinegar on the table to eat with corned beef and cabbage. - - -FRIED CORNED BEEF.--This is a very homely and economical dish, but it is -liked by many persons. Cut thin slices from a cold round of beef, and -season them with pepper. Fry them brown over a quick fire, and put them -in a covered dish to keep hot. Then wash the frying-pan, cleaning it -well from the fat, and put into it plenty of cold boiled cabbage, cut -small, and some cold carrots, sliced thin, adding some thin sliced suet, -or beef dripping to fry them in. When done, dish the meat with the -vegetables laid around it; adding the gravy. This is the dish called in -England, Bubble-and-Squeak, perhaps from the noise it makes when frying. -It is only designed for strong healthy people with good appetites. - -It is sometimes made of salt pork or bacon; sliced potatos being added -to the cabbage. - - -DRIED AND SMOKED BEEF.--For this purpose have as much as you want cut -off from a fine round. Mix together two ounces of saltpetre, (finely -pounded) rub it into the meat, cover it, and let it stand a day. Then -mix together half a pound of bay-salt, an ounce of black pepper, half an -ounce of ground ginger, and an ounce of pounded mace, and a quarter of -an ounce of powdered cloves. Rub this mixture well into the beef, put it -into a deep pan, and let it lie in this pickle two weeks, turning it -every day. Then hang it up in a smoke-house, and smoke it over a fire -made of corn-cobs, or maple chips. Never use pine for smoking. - -It may be eaten chipped at tea, or what is much better, stewed and -warmed in a skillet. Venison may be spiced, dried, and smoked in the -same manner. - - -TO STEW SMOKED BEEF.--Having chipped it thin, put it into a skillet, -with fresh butter, pepper, and two or three beaten yolks of eggs. Let it -stew till the beef is crisp and curled up. - -Never allow yourself to be persuaded to use pyroligneous acid in curing -dried beef or ham--instead of the real smoke of a wood fire. It -communicates a taste and smell of kreosote, and is a detestable -substitute, detected in a moment. - - -A SPICED ROUND OF BEEF.--Take a large prime round of beef; extract the -bone, and close the hole. Tie a tape all round it to keep it firm. Take -four ounces of finely powdered saltpetre, and rub it well into the beef. -Put the meat into a very clean pickling-tub that has a close-fitting -cover, and let it rest for two days. Next rub it thoroughly with salt, -and return it to the tub for eight days. Then take an ounce of powdered -mace, a large nutmeg powdered, a half-ounce of pepper, and a quarter of -an ounce of powdered cloves, (not more.) Mix these spices well -together, and then mix them with a pound of fine brown sugar. Rub the -spices and sugar thoroughly all over the beef, which will be ready to -cook next day. Then fill the opening with minced sweet herbs, sweet -basil, and sweet marjoram, laid in loosely and lightly. Take half a -pound of nice beef-suet. Divide it in two, and flatten each half of the -suet by beating it with a rolling-pin. Lay it in a broad earthen pan, -with one sheet of suet under the meat, and the other pressed over it. -Above this place a sheet of clean white paper, and over all put a large -plate. Set it in a hot oven, and bake it five hours or more, till by -probing it to the bottom, with a sharp knife, you find it thoroughly -cooked. It is excellent as a cold standing dish, for a large family. -When it is to be eaten cold, boil fresh cabbage to go with it. Also -parsnips and carrots. - -_Cabbage._--For this beef, red cabbage is very nice, cut small, and -stewed with butter and tarragon vinegar. - - -A-LA-MODE BEEF.--Remove the bone from a fine round of fresh beef, and -also take off the fat. For a round that weighs ten pounds, make -seasoning or stuffing in the following proportions. Half a pound of beef -suet; half a pound of grated bread-crumbs; the crumbled yolks of three -hard-boiled eggs; a large bundle of sweet marjoram, the leaves chopped; -another of sweet basil; four onions minced small, a large table-spoonful -of mixed mace and nutmeg, powdered. Season slightly with salt and -cayenne. Stuff this mixture into the place from whence you took out the -bone. Make numerous deep cuts or incisions about the meat, and stuff -them also. Skewer the meat into a proper shape, and secure its form by -tying it round with tape. Put it into a clean iron oven or bake-pan, and -pour over it a pint of port wine. Put on the lid, and bake the beef -slowly for five or six hours, or till it is thoroughly done all through. - -If the meat is to be eaten hot, skim all the fat from the gravy; into -which, after it is taken off the fire, stir in the beaten yolks of two -eggs. - -If onions are disliked you can omit them, and substitute minced oysters. - - -BEEF A-LA-MODE--(_Another way._)--Take a fine round of fresh beef, -extract the bone, and fill the place from whence it was taken with a -stuffing made of bread soaked in milk and then mashed up, butter, and -some yolks of hard-boiled eggs crumbled fine, the yellow rind and juice -of a large grated lemon, sweet marjoram and sweet basil chopped small, -with some powdered nutmeg and mace. Make deep cuts or incisions all over -the outside of the meat, and in every cut stick firmly a slip of bacon -or salt pork put in with a larding-pin. Bring round the flap and skewer -to the side of the round, filling in between with some of the stuffing. -And pour round it a pint or more of port wine. Lay it in an oven, and -bake it slowly till it is well done all through, which will require -some hours. Serve it up with its own gravy under it. It is more -generally eaten cold, at a supper party. In this case, cover it thickly -all over with double parsley or pepper grass, so as to resemble a green -bank. In the centre place a bouquet of natural flowers, rising from the -green bank. - -French a-la-mode beef, or beef _a-la-daube_, is prepared as above, but -stewed slowly all night in lard. - - -BEEF BOUILLI.--Take from six to eight pounds of a fine round of _fresh_ -beef. Put it into a soup-pot, with the remains of a piece of cold roast -beef (bones and all) to enrich the gravy, but use no other cold meat -than beef. Season it slightly with salt and pepper, and pour on just -sufficient water to cover it well. Boil it slowly, and skim it well. -When the scum ceases to rise, have ready half a dozen large carrots, cut -into pieces, and put _them_ in first. Afterwards add six turnips, -quartered; a head of celery, cut small; half a dozen parsnips, cut in -pieces; and six whole onions. Let it boil slowly till all the vegetables -are done, and very tender. - -Send it to table with the beef in the middle of a large dish; the -vegetables laid all around it; and the gravy (thickened with fine grated -bread-crumbs) in a sauce-boat. Serve up with it, white potatos, boiled -whole; and mashed pumpkin, or winter squash. - -This is a good dinner for a plain family. - -Those who like tarragon mustard, or tarragon vinegar, may add it on -their plates. - -Tomatos may be skinned and stewed with it. - - -TO STEW COLD CORNED BEEF.--Cut about four pounds of lean from a cold -round of beef, that tastes but little of the salt. Lay it in a stew-pan, -with a quarter of a peck of tomatos quartered, and the same quantity of -ochras sliced; also, two small onions peeled and sliced, and two ounces -of fresh butter rolled in flour. Add a tea-spoonful of whole -pepper-corns, (_no salt_,) and four or five blades of mace. Place it -over a steady but moderate fire. Cover it closely, and let it stew three -or four hours. The vegetables should be entirely dissolved. Serve it up -hot. - -This is an excellent way of using up the remains of a cold round of beef -at the season of tomatos and ochras, particularly when the meat has been -rather under-boiled the first day of cooking it. - -A few pounds of the lean of a _fresh_ round of beef, will be still -better, cooked in this manner, increasing the quantity of ochras and -tomatos, and stewing it six hours. - -Cold fillet of veal is very good stewed with tomatos, ochras, and an -onion or two. Also, the thick or upper part of a cold leg of mutton; or -of pork, either fresh or corned. - - -TO STEW SMOKED BEEF.--The dried beef, for this purpose, must be fresh -and of the very best quality. Cut it (or rather shave it) into very -thin, small slices, with as little fat as possible. Put the beef into a -skillet, and fill up with boiling water. Cover it, and let it soak or -steep till the water is cold. Then drain off that water, and pour on -some more; but merely enough to cover the chipped beef, which you may -season with a little pepper. Set it over the fire, and (keeping on the -cover) let it stew for a quarter of an hour. Then roll a few bits of -butter in a little flour, and add it to the beef, with the yolk of one -or two beaten eggs. Let it stew five minutes longer. Take it up on a hot -dish, and send it to the breakfast or tea-table. - -Cold ham may be sliced thin, and stewed in the same manner. Dried -venison also. - - -FRENCH BEEF.--Take a circular piece from the round, (having removed the -bone,) and trim it nicely from the fat, skin, &c. Then lard it all over -with long slips of fat pork or bacon. The place from whence the bone was -taken must be filled with a forcemeat, made of minced suet, grated -bread-crumbs, sweet marjoram rubbed fine, and grated lemon-peel; add a -little salt and pepper. Tie a tape closely round the outside of the -beef, to keep it compact, and in shape. Put it into a broad earthen jar -with a cover; or into an iron bake-oven. Add some whole pepper, a large -onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, three bay-leaves, a quarter of a pound of -butter, divided into small bits, (each piece rolled in flour,) and half -a pint of claret, or port wine. Bake or stew it thus in its own liquor, -for five, six, or seven hours, (in proportion to its size,) for it must -be thoroughly done, quite tender, and brown all through the inside. - - -STEWED FRESH BEEF.--Cut a square thick piece of beef from the round or -sirloin, and trim off the fat. Put it into a stew-pan with just water -enough to cover it, and season it slightly with salt and pepper. Let it -stew slowly, till tender all through. Then add potatos pared and -quartered, turnips the same; and also, parsnips split and cut short, and -(if approved) a few sliced onions. Stew altogether till the vegetables -are thoroughly cooked, and then serve up the whole on one large dish. - -Mutton, veal, and fresh pork, may be stewed in the same manner. Sweet -potatos, scraped and split, are excellent served with fresh meat. There -should be a great plenty of vegetables, as they are much liked in stews. -What is called an Irish stew is fresh beef stewed with potatos only--the -potatos being first pared, and cut in quarters. - -For economy, cold roast beef may be stewed next day with fresh potatos -cut up, and as little water as possible. Cold potatos, if re-cooked, are -always hard, tough, and unwholesome. - - -STEWED BEEFSTEAKS WITH OYSTERS.--Take some fine tender beef-steaks cut -from the sirloin. If they are taken from the round they should be beaten -with a rolling-pin to make them tender. Put them into a close stew-pan, -with barely sufficient water to prevent their burning, and set them over -the fire to brown. When they are browned, add sufficient oyster-liquor -to cook them, and some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Let them -stew slowly for an hour, or till they are thoroughly done. Then add -three or four dozen of fine large fresh oysters, in proportion to the -quantity of meat, seasoning them well with nutmeg, a few blades of mace, -and a little cayenne. Cover the pan, and simmer them till the oysters -are well plumped, but not till they come to a boil. When all is properly -cooked, transfer the whole to a deep dish, and send it to table hot. - -The meat, when preparing, should be cut into pieces about as large as -the palm of your hand, and an inch thick, omitting the fat. Small clams -may be substituted for oysters. - - -TOMATO STEWED BEEF.--Take large ripe tomatos, and scald them, to make -the skins peel off easily. Pare, quarter them, and sprinkle them with a -little salt and pepper. Lay in a stew-pan some thin tender beef-steaks, -lamb, mutton-chops, or cutlets of fresh pork. Bury the meat in the -tomatos, and add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour and a little -sugar to take off the extreme acid of the tomatos; also, an onion or -two, very finely minced. Let the whole cook slowly till the meat is -thoroughly done, and the tomatos dissolved to a pulp. Send it to table -all on the same dish. - -A rabbit or chicken, (cut apart as for carving,) is very good stewed -with tomatos. Freshly killed venison is excellent for this stew. - -Many persons mix grated bread with tomato stew. We think it weakens the -taste--a thing not desirable in any cooking. - -This stew must not have a drop of water in it; the tomatos will give out -sufficient liquid to cook the meat. There is not a more wholesome dish. - - -BEEF STEWED WITH ONIONS.--Take a square piece of beef from the sirloin, -where there is no bone or fat. With a sharp knife make very deep -incisions all over it, but not quite so deep as to cut it through to the -bottom. Prepare a forcemeat by peeling and boiling some onions. Then -drain and mince them. Mix in with the onions some fine bread-crumbs, and -some chopped sweet-marjoram, (seasoning with powdered nutmeg and mace,) -and fill tightly all the incisions. Put into the bottom of a stew-pan -some drippings of roast-beef, or else a piece of fresh butter rolled in -flour. Lay the seasoned meat upon it. Let it stew till completely -cooked, and no redness to be found in any part of it. Serve it up hot, -and send it to table in its own gravy. - -A round or fillet of fresh pork may be cooked as above, putting into the -incisions, or holes, powdered sage instead of sweet marjoram, with the -onions and crumbs; and using lard instead of beef-drippings. Eat apple -sauce with it. - - -BEEF STEWED WITH OYSTERS.--Prepare two or three pounds of the best beef, -by trimming off all the fat, and removing the bone. Lay in the bottom of -the stew-pan a few bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Then put in the -meat, and sprinkle a little pepper over each piece. Have ready a quart -of large fresh oysters. Strain the liquor to clear it from bits of the -shell, and pour it over the meat in the stew-pan. Stew the meat in the -oyster liquor till it is thoroughly cooked, skimming it well, and -keeping it covered, except when skimming. Then add grated nutmeg, and a -few blades of mace. Lastly, put in the oysters, and let them remain in -just long enough to plump, which will be in a few minutes. If cooked too -much oysters always shrivel, and become hard and tough. When all is -done, serve up the whole in one dish. - -In the same manner clams may be stewed with beef. Never put any salt -where there are clams. They are quite salt enough in themselves. - - -FRENCH STEW.--Cut into pieces two or three pounds of the lean of fresh -tender beef, mutton, veal, or pork, and peel and slice a quarter of a -peck or more of ripe tomatos. Season the whole with a little pepper and -salt. Add, if you choose, a tea-spoonful of sugar to moderate the -extreme acid of the tomatos. Put the whole together into a stew-pot, and -cover it closely, opening it occasionally to see how it is doing. Put no -water to this stew, the juice of the tomatos will cook it thoroughly. -Add a large table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves. When the tomatos -are all dissolved, stir in a piece of fresh butter, dredged with flour. -Let it stew about a quarter of an hour longer. When the meat is quite -tender all through, and every thing well done, make some sippets of -triangular shaped toast, with the crust trimmed off. Dip the toast, for -a moment, in hot water; butter and stand it up all round the inside of a -deep dish. Then fill it with the stew, and serve it hot. Any meat may be -stewed thus with tomatos. - - -POTATO BEEF.--This is an excellent family dish. Boil some potatos till -well done, all through. Peel them, put them into a large pan, and mash -them smoothly, adding, as you proceed, some milk, and one or more beaten -eggs, well mixed into the potatos. Rub the bottom of a white ware -pudding dish with nice butter, or some drippings of cold beef, and cover -it with a thick layer of mashed potatos. Next, put in thin slices of -beef, (omitting the fat,) enough to cover the potatos. Next, add -another layer of mashed potatos, evenly and thickly spread. Then, more -thin slices of beef, and then more potatos. Do this, till the dish is -full; finishing it with potatos, on the top, heaping them up in the -centre. Bake it in an oven. There must be plenty of potatos, as they -will be much liked. - - -BEEF AND MUSHROOMS.--Take three pounds of the best sirloin steaks. -Season them with black pepper and a very little salt, having removed the -fat and bone. Put a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter into a -frying-pan, and set it over the fire. When it is boiling hot, put in the -steaks, and fry them brown. Have ready a quart of very fresh mushrooms, -peeled and stemmed. If large, cut them in four. Season them with a -little pepper and salt, and dredge them lightly with flour, and add a -few bits of butter. Stew them in a separate pan kept closely covered. -When the steaks are done, pour the mushrooms over them with all their -juice. Put them all (steaks and mushrooms) into a dish with a cover, and -serve them up hot. - -This is a breakfast dish, or a side dish for dinner. Unless the company -is very small, four pounds of beef steaks, at least, and three pints of -mushrooms, (with butter in proportion) will be required at dinner, as it -will be much liked. - - -BEEF'S HEART.--Wash the heart well, and soak it in a pan of tepid water -till all the blood is drawn out of the ventricles, and it is made very -clean and dry. Next par-boil it a quarter of an hour. Then stuff the -cavities with a forcemeat made of minced veal, bread-crumbs, butter or -minced suet, and sweet herbs, seasoned with a little pepper and nutmeg; -or it may be stuffed simply with sage and onions. Sew up the openings -with coarse brown thread, lest the forcemeat should fall out. Put the -heart on a spit, and roast it before a clear fire, for near two hours; -basting it well with nice fresh butter. Thicken the gravy with a little -flour, and stir into it a glass of port wine, or of tarragon vinegar. -Have ready a hot dish and a heated cover. Serve up the heart as hot as -possible, for it soon chills, and pour the gravy around it. The gravy -should be heated to a boil in a small sauce-pan. - -_Calves' Hearts_ are cooked in the same manner. As they are small, it -takes four calves' hearts to make a dish. - -Hearts may be sliced and stewed with onions and sweet herbs, adding to -the stew a little salad oil. - - -BEEF PATTIES.--A nice way of disposing of underdone roast beef, is to -mince fine all the lean, and a _very little_ of the fat. Season it with -cayenne, and powdered nutmeg, or mace, or else chopped sweet herbs. If -you have any stewed mushroom-gravy, moisten the meat with that. Make a -nice paste, and cut it into small circular sheets, rolled out not very -thin. Cover one half of each sheet of paste with the minced beef (not -too near the edge) and fold over the other half, so as to form a half -moon. Wet your fingers with cold water, and pinch together the two edges -of the half moon. Then crimp them with a sharp knife. Lay the patties in -square baking pans, prick them with a fork, and bake them brown. Or you -may fry them in lard. Serve them up hot, as side dishes. - -Cold veal, minced with cold ham, or tongue, makes very nice patties; -also cold chicken or turkey. - - -A BEEF STEAK PIE.--Stew two pounds or more, of fine tender sirloin -steaks, divested of fat and bone, and cut rather thin. Season them with -a very little salt and pepper; and, when about half done, remove them -from the fire, and keep them warm, saving all the gravy. Make a nice -paste, allowing to two quarts of flour one pound and a quarter of fresh -butter. Divide the butter into four quarters. Rub one half into the pan -of flour, and make it into a dough with, a very little cold water. Roll -it out into a large sheet, and with a broad knife stick over it, at -equal distances, one of the remaining divisions of butter. Then sprinkle -it with more flour, fold it, and roll it out again into a large sheet. -Put on the remainder of the butter in bits, as before. Then fold it -again. Cut the paste into equal halves, and roll them out into two -sheets, trimmed into round or oval forms. With one sheet line a -pie-dish, and fill it with your meat, adding, if convenient, some -mushrooms, or some fresh oysters, or the soft part of a few clams, and -some blades of mace. Use the other sheet of paste as a cover for the -pie, uniting the edges with the under crust by crimping it nicely. Of -the trimmings of the paste, make an ornament or tulip, and stick it into -the slit at the top of the pie. - - -MEAT PIES--May be made in the above manner of lamb, veal, or pork. Also -of venison or any sort of fresh meat. Pie crust for baking should be -shortened with butter, or with the dripping of roast beef, veal, or -_fresh_ pork. Mutton or lamb dripping are unfit for pie crust, as they -make it taste of tallow. Suet will not do at all for _baked_ paste, -though very good if the paste is to be boiled. Butter and lard will make -a nice plain paste for pies, if both are fresh and good; the butter to -be rubbed into the flour, mixed with a little cold water, and rolled -out; the lard to be spread evenly all over the sheet; then folded and -rolled out again. Meat pies should always have a bottom crust, as the -gravy it imbibes makes it very relishing. Veal pies are insipid without -the addition of some cold ham. - -Pies made of game should have a puff-paste, as they are generally for -company. - -On the shores of the Chesapeake, very fine pies are made of canvas-back, -or red-neck ducks, when in season. They require puff-paste to be made -in perfection. Pot-pies of these ducks are, of course, excellent. - - -A BEEF STEAK POT-PIE.--Take two pounds or more of tender beef steaks, -exclusive of the fat and bone, which must be omitted; the steaks from -the sirloin end, cut less than an inch thick, and not larger than four -or five inches square. Put them into a pot with enough water to cover -them, and season them slightly with pepper and salt. Dredge them with a -little flour, and lay on each a morsel of nice fresh butter. Stew the -steaks for half an hour. Meanwhile make a large portion of paste; -allowing to every quart or pound of flour, a small half pound of nice -beef-suet, entirely freed from all its skin and strings, and minced with -a chopper as finely as possible. To three pounds of beef allow four -quarts of flour and not quite two pounds of suet. A pot-pie with but -little paste in proportion to the meat, is no better than a stew. The -paste, if good, is always much liked. Divide the minced suet into two -halves. Rub or crumble one half the suet into the pan of flour; adding -by degrees a little _cold_ water, barely enough to make a stiff dough; -first mixing in a small tea-spoonful of salt. Roll out the lump of dough -into a large sheet, and spread it all over with the remainder of the -minced suet, laid on with a broad knife. Then fold it up, and set it on -a dish in a cool place, to get quite cold. Take a large iron pot, made -very clean. Lay in the bottom the largest pieces of beef steak, and -line round the sides with pieces of the paste, cut to fit. Next put in -the remainder of the meat, interspersed with raw potatos sliced, (either -white or sweet potatos,) and also pieces of the paste cut into squares, -and laid among the meat, to which must be added the gravy saved from the -stew. When the pot is nearly full, cover its contents with a large round -or circular piece of paste. This must not fit _quite closely_, but a -little space or crack must be left all around for the gravy to bubble up -as it boils. Before you put on the lid pour in half a pint, or more, of -water. Cut a cross-slit in the centre of the top-crust. Set the pot over -a good fire, and let it boil steadily, till all is done, meat and paste. -The upper-crust should be well-browned. When cooked, serve the whole -upon one large dish, laying the brown upper-crust on the top of all. If -there is too much gravy, send some of it to table in a sauce-boat, first -skimming it. - -It will be improved by adding to the seasoning some nutmeg or powdered -mace. These are the only spices that accord well with meat or poultry. - - -POT-PIES.--The preceding receipt is good for any sort of pot-pie. They -are all on the same principle. The meat to be divested of the fat, and -stewed first in a pot by itself, saving the gravy. The paste (of which -there should always be an ample allowance) sufficient to line the sides -of the pot all round, and reaching up nearly to the top, besides plenty -of small square pieces to intersperse with the meat, and an upper crust -to cover the whole. At the very bottom the meat and gravy only, as there -the paste might burn. Pot-pies may be made of any sort of fresh meat, or -of fowls or any sort of poultry (cut up, as if for carving,) and -previously stewed. If made of chickens or pigeons or rabbits, add a few -slices of cold ham and put no other salt. For want of suet you may make -the paste with butter, but it must be fresh and good. Allow half a pound -of butter to a large quart of flour. Potato paste is tolerable for -shortening pot-pies, if you make it half mashed potato and half lard. We -do not recommend bread dough or any thing raised with yeast or soda for -boiled paste; when there is no shortening, boiled paste is always tough -and unwholesome. - -Pot-pies may be made of apples pared, cored, and quartered; of peaches -quartered and stoned, or of any nice fruit. Fruit pot-pies should have -butter paste, and be well sweetened with brown sugar. - -All boiled dough should be eaten warm. It falls and becomes heavy as -soon as cold. - - -BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.--After clearing it from the skin and strings, mince -as fine as possible three quarters of a pound of nice beef suet. Sift -into a pan two small quarts of flour. Rub half the suet into the flour, -and make it into a paste with a little cold water, (as little as -possible.) Roll it out into a large sheet, and spread over it, evenly, -the other half of the minced suet. Fold it, flour it, roll it again, -and divide it unequally into two pieces, one nearly three times larger -than the other. Roll them out, rather thick than thin. Have ready a -large pound and a quarter of tender-loin beef steak, that has been cut -into thin pieces (without fat or bone, seasoned with a very little salt -and pepper, and some nutmeg) and half-stewed, saving its gravy. Lay this -meat upon the large thick sheet of crust; pour the stewed gravy among -it, and add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Cover it with the -small round of paste, cut to fit, only allowing the lid large enough to -project a little over, so as to be joined firmly by pressing it all -round with your fingers. Do it well and securely, that it may not come -apart while boiling. Dip a large square pudding-cloth in hot -water--shake it out--lay it in a deep pan, dredge it with flour, lay the -pudding into it and tie it firmly, leaving room for swelling. Put it -into a large pot of boiling water, and boil it till, on probing with a -fork, you find the meat quite tender. - -Or you may boil it in a large bowl with a rim, tying the cloth carefully -all over the top. Set the bowl in a pot of boiling water. - - -TO BOIL TRIPE.--Clean the tripe very carefully, giving it a thorough -scraping, and washing in warm water, and trim off the superfluous fat. -Lay it all night in weak salt and water. Then wash it again. Let it lie -an hour or two in milk and water, and then boil it five hours or more, -putting it on in cold water. It must be perfectly tender throughout. -This should be done the day _before_ it is to be cooked for dinner. On -that day, cut it into strips or bands, roll them with the fat side -inwards. Tie the rolls round with small white twine, and boil them two -hours longer; or till they are _perfectly tender throughout, and incline -to look transparent near the edges_. Have ready in a saucepan, some -onions peeled; and boil in milk and water, till soft enough to mash. -Then take them out; drain them; mix with the onion-water some nice fresh -butter divided into pieces and rolled in flour. When this has come to a -boil, return the onions to the liquor; season them with pepper, and give -them one boil up. When the tripe is done, transfer it to a deep dish, -and pour the onion sauce over it. When on your plate, add to it some -tarragon vinegar or mustard. Take the strings off before the tripe goes -to table. - - -TRIPE CURRY.--Having boiled two pounds of double tripe, cut it into -slips, peel two large onions, cut them also into dice, and put them into -a stew-pan, with three ounces, or three table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. -Let them stew till brown, stirring frequently, and mixing in a -table-spoonful of curry-powder. Add a pint of milk, and the cut-up -tripe. Let all stew together for an hour or more, skimming it well. -Serve it up in a tureen or deep dish, with a dish of boiled rice to eat -with it. - -A good East India receipt for curry-powder, is to pound, very fine, in -a marble mortar, (made very clean,) six ounces of coriander seed, three -quarters of an ounce of cayenne, one ounce and a half of foenugreek -seed; one ounce of cummin seed, and three ounces of turmeric. These -articles (all of which can be obtained at a druggist's,) being pounded -extremely fine, must be sifted through clean thin muslin, and spread on -a dish, and laid before the fire for three hours, stirring them -frequently. Keep this powder in a bottle with a glass stopper. It is -used for giving an East Indian flavor to stews. The turmeric -communicates a fine yellow color. - -Boiled rice is always eaten with curry dishes. - -Curry balls for Mock Turtle, &c., are made of bread-crumbs, fresh -butter, hard-boiled yolk of egg, chopped fine, a seasoning of curry -powder, and some beaten raw egg, to make the mixture into balls, about -the size of a hickory-nut. - - -FRIED TRIPE.--Having boiled the tripe till perfectly tender all through; -cut it into pieces three or four inches square. Make a batter of four -beaten eggs, four table-spoonfuls of flour, and a pint of milk, seasoned -with powdered nutmeg or mace. Have boiling in the frying-pan an ample -quantity of the drippings of roast veal, or beef. Dip each piece of -tripe twice into the batter; then lay it in the pan, and fry it brown. -Send it to table hot. - -Tripe was long considered very indigestible. This, it is now found, was -a mistake; physicians having discovered that it is quite the contrary, -the gastric juice that it contained, as the stomach of the animal, -rendering it singularly fitted for digestion, provided that it is -thoroughly cooked; so that on trial, a fork can easily penetrate every -part of it. - - -TONGUES.--Corned or salted tongues are very little in use now. They -spoil so soon, that it is scarcely possible to obtain one that has not -been salted too late; and when quite fresh, they have a faint, -sickening, doubtful taste. It is best always to buy them dried and -smoked. Choose the largest and plumpest, and with as smooth an outside -or skin as you can. Put a tongue into soak the evening before it is to -be cooked; changing the water at bed-time. In the morning wash it in -fresh water. Trim off the root, which is an unsightly object, and never -carved at table. But it may be cut into pieces, and added to pea-soup, -or bean-soup, or pepper-pot. Put on the tongue in a large pot of cold -water, and boil it steadily for five or six hours, till it is so tender -that a straw, or a twig from a corn-broom, will easily penetrate it. -When you find that it is thoroughly done (and not till then) take it up. -A smoked tongue requires more boiling than a ham, and therefore is -seldom sufficiently cooked. When quite done, peel it carefully, and keep -it warm till dinner. If well-boiled, it will seem almost to melt in your -mouth. When you dish it do not split it. The flavor is much injured by -carving it lengthways, or in long pieces. It should be cut in round -slices, not too thin. - -For a large party we have seen two cold tongues on one dish. One of them -whole--the root concealed entirely with double parsley, cut paper, or a -bunch of flowers cut out of vegetables, very ingeniously, with a sharp -penknife--the vegetables raw, of course not to be eaten. Red roses made -of beets, white roses or camellias of turnips, marigolds of carrots, &c. -The stems are short wooden skewers, stuck into the flowers, and -concealed by double parsley. These vegetable bouquets can be made to -look very well, as ornaments to cold tongue, or to the end of the shank -of a ham, or to stick into the centre of a cold round of a-la-mode beef. - -Where there are two cold tongues on one dish, it is usual to split one -to be helped lengthways, and garnish it with the other, cut into -circular pieces, and laid handsomely round. - -Cold tongue sliced is a great improvement to a chicken pie, or to any -bird pie. - - -BAKED TONGUE.--Having soaked a fine large smoked tongue all night, in -the morning trim it nicely, and if it still seems hard, soak it again in -fresh cold water till it is time to cook it. Then put it into a deep -dish, (having trimmed off the root,) and make a coarse paste of flour -and water. Cut up the roots into little bits, and lay them round and -about the tongue, to enrich the gravy. Lay all along the surface some -bits of butter rolled in flour, and season with a little pepper--no -salt. Pour in a very little water, and cover the dish with the coarse -paste. Bake it till the tongue is very tender. This you may ascertain by -raising up with a knife one corner of the paste and trying the tongue. -When done, peel it, dish it, strain the gravy over the tongue, and send -it to table. Garnish with baked tomatos, or mushrooms, or large roasted -chestnuts peeled. - -For a large company have two baked tongues, one at each end of the -table. Eat them warm. - - -LARDED TONGUE.--Take a large cold tongue, that has been well boiled. -Trim off the roots. Have ready some slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, -cut into long thin pieces, about as thick as straws. With a larding -needle, draw them through the outside of the tongue, and leave them -there. Arrange the borders in rows, or handsome regular forms, leaving -about an inch standing up on the surface. - -Cold meat or poultry is far better for larding than that which is yet to -cook. - - -TONGUE TOAST.--Make some slices of nice toast, not very thick, but -browned evenly all over, on both sides. Trim off the whole of the crust. -Butter the toast slightly. Grate, with a large grater plenty of cold -tongue, and spread it thickly over the toast. Lay the slices side by -side, on a large dish--not one slice on the top of another. - -Serve them up at breakfast, luncheon, or supper. - - -HAM TOAST--Is prepared in the same manner, of grated cold ham spread on -slices of buttered toast. - - -SANDWICHES--Are slices of cold ham, or tongue, _cut very thin_, and laid -between thin slices of buttered bread. The meat may be seasoned with -French mustard. Roll them up nicely. There are silver cases made to -contain sandwiches to eat on the road when traveling. - -Sandwiches for traveling may be made of the _lean_ of cold beef, (roast -or boiled,) cut very thin, seasoned with French mustard, and laid -between two slices of bread and butter. - - - - -MUTTON. - - -MUTTON.--If mutton is good it is of a fine grain; the lean is of a -bright red color, and the fat firm and white. Unless there is plenty of -fat the lean will not be good; and so it is with all meat. If the lean -is of a very dark red, and coarse and hard, and the fat yellowish and -spongy, the mutton is old, tough, and strong. Therefore, do not buy it. -If there is any dark or blackish tint about the meat, it is tainted, and -of course unwholesome. If kept till it acquires what the English call -venison taste, Americans will very properly refuse to eat it. - -We give no directions for disguising spoilt meat. It should be thrown -away. Nothing is fit to eat in which decomposition is commencing. - - -BOILED LOIN OF MUTTON.--A good loin of mutton is always very fat, so -that in cooking it is well to remove or pare off a portion of the -outside fat. Unlike most other meats, mutton is the better for being -boiled in soup. Put it into a large pot; allow to every pound a quart of -water. Boil it slowly and skim it well, adding the vegetables when the -scum has done rising. The vegetables should be sliced turnips, potatos, -and grated carrots. Have ready plenty of suet dumplings, in the -proportion of half a pound of finely minced suet to a pound and a -quarter of flour. Rub the suet into the pan of flour, and use as little -water as possible in mixing the dough. Make it into thick dumplings, -rather larger round than a dollar. Boil them in a pot by themselves, -till thoroughly done. Serve up the meat with the dumplings round it. Or -put the dumplings in a dish by themselves, and surround the meat with -whole turnips. This is an excellent plain dish for a private family. -Serve up pickles with it. - - -SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON.--This particularly applies to mutton that has -been boiled in soup, and which is so very generally liked, that it is -served up on tables where soup-meat of beef and veal is considered -inadmissible. To make a suitable sauce to eat with it--take two or three -large boiled onions; slice them and put them into a sauce-pan, with a -piece of fresh butter slightly rolled in flour, a table-spoonful of -_made_ mustard. French mustard will be best; or, for want of that, two -table-spoonfuls of strong tarragon vinegar, and a half-salt-spoon of -cayenne, and some pickled cucumbers chopped, but not minced. Green -nasturtion seeds will be still better than cucumbers. Put these -ingredients into a small sauce-pan, adding to them a little of the -mutton soup. Set this sauce over the fire, and when it simmers well, -take it off, put into a sauce-boat, and keep it hot till the mutton goes -to table. - -To keep nasturtions--take the full-grown green seeds, and put them into -a large bottle of the best _cider_ vinegar, corking them closely. They -require nothing more, and are far superior to capers. - - -BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.--After nicely trimming a middle-sized leg of -mutton, wash, but do not soak it. Put it into a pot that will hold it -well, and pour on rather more water than is sufficient to cover it. Set -it over a good fire, and skim it as soon as it begins to boil, and -continue till no more scum appears; having thrown in a small -table-spoonful of salt after the first skimming. After the liquid is -clear, put in some turnips, pared, and, if large, divided into four -pieces. Afterwards it should boil slowly, or simmer gently for about two -hours or more. Send to table with it caper sauce; or nasturtion, which -is still better. Eat it with any sort of green pickles. Pickles and -turnips seem indispensable to boiled mutton. Do not mash the turnips, -but let them be well drained. - -Setting boiled turnips in the sun will give them an unpleasant taste. - -Tarragon sauce is excellent with boiled mutton. - - -MUTTON STEAKS STEWED.--Take some tender mutton steaks, cut from the leg. -Beat them a little with a rolling pin, and season them with pepper and -salt. Put them into a stew-pan with sliced potatos, sliced turnips, -sliced onions, sliced or grated carrots, and sweet marjoram leaves -stripped from the stalks. Pour in just sufficient water to cover the -stew, and let it cook slowly till it is tender and well done. Serve it -up hot in a deep dish, with a cover. A table-spoonful of tarragon -mustard will improve the stew. - -When tomatos are in season, you can stew mutton or any other meat with -tomatos only--no water. Having prepared the meat, and laid it in the -stew-pan, cover it with tomatos, peeled and quartered. Add some sugar to -take off a portion of their acid, and a chopped onion. No water, as the -meat will cook in the liquid of the tomatos. They must stew till -thoroughly dissolved. - -Tender-loin beef steaks--or veal cutlets, may be stewed as above. - - -MUTTON CHOPS BROILED.--The best steaks are those cut from the loin, -about half an inch thick. Divest them of the bone, and remove the skin -and fat. Then butter them slightly all over, before cooking. This will -be found an improvement. The French go over them with salad oil, which -is still better. Sprinkle on them a little pepper and salt. Having -heated the gridiron well over a bed of very hot live coals, place it -somewhat aslant, grease its bars with a little of the mutton suet, and -lay on the steaks and broil them well; turning them three or four times, -and seeing that they are not scorched or burnt on the outside, and red -or raw when cut. Turn them with a knife and fork, or with steak-tongs, -an instrument with which every kitchen should be furnished. To cook them -well requires a clear glowing fire, without blaze or smoke. They should -be done in about a quarter of an hour. When you take them up, turn them -on a well-heated dish, and pour their gravy over them. - -If onions are liked, mince one as fine as possible, and strew it over -the steaks while broiling; or, boil and slice some onions, mix some -butter among them, season them with pepper, and a little powdered mace -or nutmeg, and serve them up with the meat on the same dish, or in a -sauce-boat. - - -MUTTON CHOPS WITH TOMATOS.--Broil some mutton steaks in the above -manner, and have ready some baked tomatos. When the steaks are dished, -lay on each a large baked tomato with the face downward, or cover each -steak with stewed tomato sauce. For baking, take fine ripe tomatos of -the largest size. Cut out a piece from the stem end, and extract the -seeds. Then stuff each tomato with grated bread-crumbs, butter, and -minced sweet marjoram, or finely minced onion. If you have any cold veal -or chicken, add a little of that to the stuffing, mincing it, of course. -Bake them in a dish by themselves. - -Or, you may send the steaks to table with a slice of fried egg-plant -laid upon each; buttered, and sprinkled with bread-crumbs. - - -MUTTON STEAKS FRIED.--Make a nice batter of grated bread-crumbs, milk -and beaten egg, and put it in a shallow pan. Prepare some fine steaks -cut from the loin, divested of fat, and with the bone cut short. Have -ready, in a hot frying-pan, some fresh butter or drippings. Dip each -steak twice over in the batter, then fry them brown. Send them to table -very hot. - -You may fry mutton chops like beef steaks, covered with onions, boiled, -drained, and sliced. - - -POTATO MUTTON CHOPS.--Cut some nice chops or steaks from the best end of -a neck of mutton. The loin will be still better. Trim off all the fat, -but leave a small part of the bone visible, nicely scraped. Season them -with pepper and salt, and fry them in butter or drippings. Have ready -plenty of mashed potatos with which cover the chops all over separately, -so as to wrap them up in the mashed potatos. Glaze them with beaten egg, -and brown them with a salamander or a red-hot shovel. This is a nice -breakfast dish. - - -KEBOBBED MUTTON.--This is an Asiatic dish, much approved by those who -have eaten it in Turkey or India, and it is certainly very good. Remove -the skin from a loin of mutton, and also the whole of the fat. Divide it -at every joint, cutting all the steaks apart, and making separate steaks -of the whole loin. Make a mixture of grated bread-crumbs, minced -sweet-herbs, a little salt and pepper, and some powdered nutmeg. Have -ready some beaten yolk of egg. Dip each steak into the egg then; twice -into the seasoning. Roll up each steak round a wooden skewer, and tie -them on a spit with packthread. Roast them before a clear fire, with a -dripping-pan under them to catch the gravy, which must be skimmed -frequently. They must be roasted slowly and carefully, taking care to -have them thoroughly cooked, even to the inmost of every roll. Baste -them with just butter enough to keep them moist. When done, carefully -take the kebobs from the skewers, and send them to table hot. Eat with -them large Spanish chestnuts, roasted and peeled; or else sweet potatos, -split, boiled, and cut into short pieces. Pour the gravy into the dish -under the kebobs. - -Instead of rolling up the kebobs, you may fasten them flat (after -seasoning,) with the same spit going through them all, and roast them in -that manner. They should all be of the same size and shape. To dish -them, lay them one upon another in an even pile. Eat mushroom sauce with -them, or any other sort that is very nice. - -Venison steaks are very good kebobbed in this manner, at the season when -venison can be had fresh, tender, and juicy. For sauce have stewed wild -grapes, mashed and made very sweet with brown sugar, or grape jelly, -which is still better; or, sauce made of fine cranberries, such as -abound in the north-west. - - -AN IRISH STEW.--Take three pounds of thick mutton cutlets from the loin, -and remove the fat. Slice thick five pounds of fine potatos that have -been previously pared. Place a layer of meat in the bottom of a -stew-pan, or an iron pot, and lay some of the potatos upon it. Season -all with salt and pepper. Upon this another layer of meat--then some -potatos again, then meat, and so on till all is in, finishing with -potatos at the top. Pour in a pint of cold water. Let it simmer gently -for two hours or more, till the meat and potatos are thoroughly done. -Serve it up very hot, meat and potatos, on the same dish. If approved, -you may add, from the beginning, one or two sliced onions. - -A similar stew may be made of beef steaks and potatos. - -You may stew pork cutlets in the same manner, but with _sweet_ potatos, -split and cut in long pieces, or with yams. The seasoning for the pork -should be minced sage. - -This is a very plain, but very good dish, if made of nice fresh meat and -good potatos, and well cooked. - - -LAMB.--The vein in the neck of the fore-quarter should be blueish, and -firm--otherwise do not buy it. If greenish or yellowish, it is tainted, -and fit only for manure. Never buy any thing that has been kept too -long. The worst may, by some process, be a little disguised, but nothing -can render wholesome any article of food in which decomposition has -commenced, even in the slightest degree. The fat should be quite white. -If there is but little meat on the shoulder it has not been a good lamb. -In America, where food is abundant, there is no occasion to eat any -thing, that has the flavor in the least changed by keeping. - -A fore-quarter of lamb comprises the shoulder, the neck, and the breast -together. The hind-quarter is the loin and leg. Lamb comes in season in -the beginning of April, if the spring is not unusually backward. - -Jersey lamb is sometimes garlicky early in the season. Avoid buying it; -you can easily tell it by the garlicky smell. It can only be rendered -eatable by stewing, or frying it with plenty of onions. To plain roast -or boil garlicky meat is in vain. Beef, also, is sometimes garlicky. - -Lamb may be cooked in every way that is proper for mutton. - - -ROAST LAMB.--The roasting pieces for lamb are the fore-quarter, and -hind-quarter; and the saddle, or both hind-quarters together, not having -been cut apart. If the saddle is cooked whole, it should be of a small -delicate lamb, nice and fat, and is then a fashionable dish at company -dinners. Like all other young meat lamb should always be thoroughly -done, not the least redness being left perceptible any where about it. A -hind-quarter of eight pounds will require at least two hours--a -fore-quarter, rather longer. It should be placed before a clear brisk -fire, but not very near at first. Put a little water in the -dripping-pan, and baste it with that till it begins to cook, adding a -little nice fresh butter. Then place it nearer the fire, and when the -gravy begins to fall, baste it with that, and repeat the basting very -frequently. When the lamb drops white gravy it is nearly done, and you -may prepare for taking it up. Skim the gravy that is in the dripping-pan -till all the fat is taken off. Then dredge over it a little flour, and -send it to table in a gravy boat, having stirred in one or two -table-spoonfuls of currant jelly. Lettuce is always an accompaniment to -cold lamb. - -In carving a fore-quarter of lamb it is usual to take off the shoulder -from the ribs, put in a slice of fresh butter, sprinkle it with a little -cayenne, and squeeze over the divided parts a fresh lemon cut in half; -and put, for that purpose, on a small plate beside the carver. - -The vegetables to be eaten with lamb are, new potatos, asparagus, green -peas, and spinach. Mint sauce is indispensable. French cooks seldom -understand how to make it. To do it properly, take a large bunch of -fresh green mint, wash it, and when you have shaken the wet from them, -mince the leaves very fine, omitting the stems. Put the leaves, when -chopped, into a small tureen or sauce-boat, and pour on a sufficient -quantity of the best cider vinegar to moisten the mint thoroughly, but -not to render it the least liquid or thin. It should be as thick as -horse-radish, prepared to eat with roast beef. Mix in sufficient sugar -to make it very sweet. Good brown sugar will do. At table put a -tea-spoonful on the side of your plate. Those who make mint sauce thin -and weak, and pour it over the meat like gravy, know nothing about it. - - -LAMB STEAKS.--Cut some nice cutlets or steaks (without any bone) from a -hind-quarter of lamb. Lay them in a stew pan, and season them with a -little salt and cayenne, adding some butter rolled in flour. Wash -carefully two fine fresh lettuces. Remove the outside leaves, quarter -the lettuces, and cut off all the stalks. Set the stew-pan, with the -meat, over a clear fire; and let it stew slowly till about half done. -Then put in the lettuce, covering the meat with it, and let them all -stew about half an hour longer. When done, take out the lettuces first. -Put them into a sieve or cullender, press out the water, and chop them -_large_. See if the meat is done all through. If it is, return the -stewed lettuce to the pot, season it with a little cayenne and some -salad oil, and add to it two or three hard-boiled eggs, chopped large. -Cover it, and let it stew five minutes longer. Serve it up on the same -dish. - - -LAMB CUTLETS.--Cut the cutlets from the loin and trim them nicely, -removing the skin, and most of the fat. Scrape the bone, and cut it -short. Grate plenty of stale bread, and mix it with some minced sweet -marjoram, seasoned with salt and pepper. Have ready a small deep dish of -light beaten egg, flavored with grated nutmeg and fresh lemon-peel, -grated fine, the thin yellow rind only. Put some nice lard or -beef-dripping into a hot frying-pan, and when the lard boils is the time -to put in the cutlets. Dip every cutlet separately into the beaten egg. -Then into the bread-crumbs, &c. Repeat this a second time both with the -egg and bread. The cutlets will be found much better for the double -immersion. Then lay them separately in the boiling lard, and fry them -well. One cutlet must not be laid on the top of another. When done, dish -them and send them to table very hot, with some currant jelly to mix -with the gravy. This is a fine breakfast dish or for a small dinner. - -Instead of frying, you may broil them. Dip each cutlet twice into the -egg and twice into the crumbs, and cover each with clean writing paper, -cut of a convenient shape, and secured with pins or packthread, the -paper being twisted round the end of the bone. Broil them in the papers, -which must be taken off before the cutlets go to table. - - -LAMB CHOPS, STEWED.--Cut a loin of lamb into chops or steaks, removing -the bone, or else sawing it very short. Trim off the skin and part of -the fat. Season the chops with a little pepper and salt, and fry them in -fresh butter till they are of a pale brown color. Then pour off the fat -and transfer the steaks to a stew-pan. Add enough boiling water to cover -them; and having seasoned them with some powdered nutmeg or some blades -of mace, add a pint of shelled green peas that have been already -parboiled, or a pint of the green tops of asparagus cut off after -boiling, and a fresh lettuce stripped of its outside leaves and stalks -and quartered. Finish with a small quarter of a pound of fresh butter -cut in pieces and rolled in flour, and laid among the vegetables. Let -them all stew together with the meat, for half an hour rather slowly. -Serve up all upon one large dish. It will make an excellent plain dinner -for a small family, with the addition of a dish or two of new potatos, -if they are in season. - -You may omit the lettuce, and add more peas and asparagus tops. - - -LARDED LAMB.--Cut off the fillet or round from a nice hind-quarter of -lamb, and remove the bone from the centre. Make a stuffing or forcemeat -of bread-crumbs, fresh butter, sweet marjoram, and sweet basil, minced -finely; the yellow rind of a fresh lemon, grated; and a tea-spoonful of -mixed nutmeg and mace, powdered. Fill with this stuffing the hole from -whence the bone was taken, and secure the flap round the side of the -meat, putting plenty of stuffing between. Then proceed to lard it. Cut a -number of long thin slips of the fat of ham, bacon, or corned pork. All -these slips must be of the same size. Take one at a time between the -points of the larding-needle, and draw it through the flat surface of -the top, or upper side of the meat, so as to leave one end of the ham -in, as you slip the other end out of the needle. Do this nicely, -arranging the slips of ham in regular form, and very near together. Put -the lamb into an iron oven, or bake-pan, with a small portion of lard or -fresh butter under it, and bake it thoroughly. When the meat is about -half done, put in a quart or more of nice green peas with sufficient -butter to cook them well. Serve up the lamb with the peas round it, on -the same dish. - -This is a dish for company. - - -LAMB PIE.--Remove the fat and bone from two pounds or more of nice lamb -steaks, or take some cutlets from the upper end of a leg of lamb, and -cut them into pieces about as large as the palm of your hand. Season -them with pepper and salt very slightly. Put them into a stew pot with a -_very little water_, and let them stew for half an hour or more. In the -mean time, make a nice paste, allowing half a pound of fresh butter to a -pound of flour. Mix with a broad knife half the butter with the flour, -adding gradually enough of cold water to make a dough. Roll out the -dough into a large thin sheet, and spread all over it with the knife the -remainder of the butter. Fold it, sprinkle it with a little flour, and -then divide it into two sheets, and roll out each of them. That intended -for the upper crust to be the thickest. Line with the under crust the -bottom and sides of a pie-dish. Put in the stewed lamb with its gravy. -Intersperse some blades of mace. Add some potatos, sliced, and some -sliced boiled turnips. Cover the meat thick with the green tops of -boiled asparagus, and lay among it a few bits of fresh butter. For -asparagus tops you may substitute boiled cauliflower seasoned with -nutmeg. Put on the paste-lid, closing the edges with crimping them -nicely. Cut a cross-slit on the top. Put the pie directly into the -oven, and bake it of a light brown. Serve it up hot. - - - - -VEAL. - - -VEAL.--Do not buy veal unless the vein in the shoulder looks blue or -bright red. If of any other color, the veal is not fresh. A calf's head -should have the eyes full and prominent. If they are dull and sunken, -the head is stale. The kidney should be well covered with firm white -fat. All the fat must be firm, dry, and white, and the lean fine in the -grain, and light colored. If any part is found clammy or discolored, do -not buy that veal. The best pieces of the calf are the loin and the -fillet. The loin consists of the best and the chump end; the hind -knuckle, and the fore knuckle. The inferior pieces are the neck, -blade-bone, and breast. The brisket end of a breast of veal is very -coarse, hard, and tough; the best end is rather better, having -sweet-bread belonging to it. - -Veal, like all other meat, should be well washed in cold water before -cooking. Being naturally the most tasteless and insipid of all meat, it -requires the assistance of certain articles to give it flavor. It is too -weak to make rich soup without various additions. But well cooked, it is -very nice as roasted loin, fillet, or fried cutlets. - - -ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.--Wash the meat well in cold water, wipe it dry, and -rub it slightly with mixed pepper and salt. Make a stuffing of bread -soaked in milk, or grated bread-crumbs, cold ham minced, sweet marjoram -minced, and the juice and yellow grated rind of a lemon; also, a little -fresh butter. Loosen with a sharp knife the skin, and put the stuffing -under it, skewering down the flap to keep it in. Put the veal to roast -before a strong clear fire, and pour a little water in the bottom of the -roaster. Baste it with this till the gravy begins to run. Then baste it -with that. Set the spit at first not very close to the fire, but bring -it nearer as the roasting proceeds. - -Send it to table with its own gravy, well skimmed and slightly thickened -with a little flour. - -Always choose a fine fresh loin of veal with plenty of fat about the -kidney. No meat spoils so soon. - -The breast and shoulder are roasted in the same manner as the loin, of -which two dishes may be made, the kidney end, and the chump end. - - -FILLET OF VEAL.--When a fillet is to be roasted or baked, let it be well -washed, and then dried in a clean towel. Take out the bone, fold the -flap round, and skewer it to the meat. Make plenty of forcemeat or -stuffing, of bread soaked in milk, or grated dry and mixed with plenty -of fresh butter, or some of the fat or suet finely minced. Season with -pepper, grated nutmeg, powdered mace, fresh lemon peel grated, and sweet -marjoram and sweet basil minced fine. The hole that contained the bone -must be stuffed full, and also the space between the flap and the side -of the meat. This should be secured by three skewers. Dredge the meat -all over lightly with flour before you put it down. At first, place the -spit at a distance from the fire, which should be strong and clear. -Then, as the meat begins to roast, set it nearer, and till the gravy -begins to fall, baste it with fresh butter, or lard. Just before it is -finished, (it will take about four hours,) dredge it with flour, and -baste it well with its own gravy. When the meat is dished, skim the -gravy, thicken it with a little flour, and pour it round the veal in the -dish, or serve it in a sauce-boat. - -A ham is the usual accompaniment to roast veal, whether fillet or loin. - - -ROAST VEAL HASHED.--Take whatever cold roast veal was left from -yesterday. To prepare it for a breakfast dish, cut it into small bits, -and put it (without any water) into a stew-pan, adding to it the veal -gravy that was left from yesterday, and a table-spoonful of fresh butter -or lard, dredged with flour. Cover it, and after stewing it half an hour -by itself, put in two large table-spoonfuls of well spiced tomato -catchup, an article no family should be without. After the catchup is -in, cover the hash again, and let it stew half an hour longer. If you -have no catchup, put in with the cold veal at the beginning, two or -three large ripe tomatos, peeled and quartered, or sliced, and seasoned -with powdered mace, nutmeg, and ginger; and let all stew together in -gravy or butter. Mushroom catchup is a good substitute for tomato in -hashing cold meat. If you have neither, put in a large table-spoonful of -tarragon or French mustard, to be bought in bottles at all the best -groceries. - -Cold roast venison is very good hashed as above. - - -VEAL A-LA-MODE.--Remove the bone from a fillet of veal, and make a large -quantity of forcemeat or stuffing of grated bread-crumbs; beef-suet or -veal-suet minced fine, the grated yellow rind and juice of a ripe lemon -or orange, or some chopped mushrooms that have been previously stewed, -some grated yolk of hard-boiled eggs, and some sweet marjoram. Press in -the stuffing, till the hole left by the bone is well filled; and also, -put stuffing between the flap and the side of the meat, before you -skewer the flap. Have ready some lardons or slips of cold ham, or -tongue, and with a larding pin draw them all through the surface of the -veal. Or else, make deep cuts or incisions throughout the meat, and -press down into each a small thin square bit of bacon-fat, seasoning -every one with a little of the stuffing. Lay the veal in a deep -baking-pan, or iron bake-oven. Surround it with nice lard, and bake it -till thoroughly done all through. Then take it out, skim the gravy, and -transfer it to a small sauce-pan. Stir in a dessert-spoonful of flour; -add a glass of white wine to the gravy, and give it one boil up. Send it -to table in a sauce-tureen, accompanying the veal. - - -TERRAPIN VEAL.--Take some nice veal, (from the fillet, or the loin) and -cut it into very small mouthfuls. Put it into a stew-pan. Have ready a -dressing made of six or seven hard-boiled eggs, minced fine, a small -tea-spoonful of made mustard, (tarragon or French mustard will be best,) -a salt-spoon of salt, and the same of cayenne; two glasses of sherry or -Madeira, and half a pint of rich cream. If you cannot conveniently -obtain cream, substitute a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided -into four pieces, and each piece dredged with flour. All the ingredients -for this dressing must be thoroughly mixed. Then, pour it over the veal, -and give the whole a hard stir. Cover it, and let it stew over the fire -for about ten minutes. Fresh venison is excellent, cooked in this -manner. So, also, are ducks, pheasants, partridges, or grouse, making a -fine side dish for company. - - -TO HASH COLD MEAT.--The best way of re-cooking cold roast meat, (veal, -beef, or pork,) is to hash it, cutting it into mouthfuls, and stewing -it in its own gravy, without a drop of water. For this purpose, save as -much as you can of the dripping or gravy that fell from it when -roasting. When you have done basting the roast meat, skim off all the -fat from the surface, and strain the gravy through a small sieve. What -is left of it, should be carefully set away in a cold place. Next day, -when it has congealed into a cake, scrape it with a knife on both sides. -If not wanted for immediate use, cut it in pieces, and put it up in a -jar well covered. Use it (instead of water) for stews and hashes; and if -well seasoned the meat will be found nearly as good (for a breakfast -dish,) as if not previously cooked. Whenever it is possible, make your -hashes without any water; and if you have saved no gravy, substitute -lard, or fresh butter. But gravy or drippings of the same meat is best. -A hash of cold meat, stewed merely in water, and with no seasoning but -salt and pepper, is a poor thing. Cold potatos, when re-cooked, always -remain hard and indigestible. In all cookery it is best to use _fresh -vegetables_, even if the _meat_ has been previously drest. Cold meat is -of no use for soups or pies. It is better to slice it, and eat it -cold--or, better still to give it the poor. Roast beef or mutton, if -very much underdone, may be sliced and broiled on a gridiron, and well -seasoned with pepper. Cold roast pork is best sliced plain, and eaten -cold. Ham also. - - -VEAL CUTLETS IN PAPERS (_en papillotes_.)--Make a nice sauce of sweet -herbs, bread-crumbs, powdered mace and nutmeg, butter and beaten egg. -Lay the cutlets in a deep dish, (having first broiled them and saved the -gravy,) pour the sauce over them, with the veal gravy added to it. Cover -them, and let them rest till cold. Allow, for each cutlet, a sheet of -foolscap paper, cut it into the shape of a heart, and go over it with -sweet oil, or fresh butter or lard. Lay a cutlet with a little of the -sauce upon it, on one-half of each sheet of paper; turn the other half -over the meat. Fold a narrow rim all round, so as to unite both edges. -Begin at the top of the heart, and pleat both edges together so as to -form a good shape without puckering. When you come to the bottom, where -the paper is to cover the bone, give it a few extra twists. Broil the -cutlets slowly on a gridiron for half an hour, seeing that no blaze -catches the papers--or put them in the oven for half an hour. If the -papers are not too much burnt or disfigured, dish the cutlets still -wrapped in them, to be removed by those who eat them. If the covers are -scorched black, and ragged, take out the cutlets and lay them on a hot -dish. Serve up with them a dish of mashed potatos or potatoe cake, -browned on the surface with a salamander. _Cotelettes a la Maintenon_, -are mutton or lamb steaks cooked in papers, in the above manner. - - -VEAL STEAKS.--Cut the steaks from the neck, leaving the bone very short, -and polishing what there is of it. Make a seasoning of boiled onions -minced, and sage or sweet marjoram leaves, or of chopped parsley. Lay on -each steak a bit of fresh butter, spread the seasoning thickly over -each, and fry them in the gravy or drippings of cold roast veal or beef. -They will be the better for beating them slightly with a rolling pin. -Put into the frying-pan three or four table-spoonfuls of mushroom or -tomato catchup; or, fry them with fresh mushrooms or fresh tomatos, -sliced. - - -VEAL CUTLETS.--Cut your veal cutlets from the fillet or round about half -an inch thick. Season them slightly with a little salt and cayenne. Have -ready a pan with grated bread-crumbs, and another with beaten egg. Have -ready, in a frying pan, plenty of boiling lard, or drippings of cold -veal. Dredge each cutlet slightly with flour; then dip it twice in the -pan of beaten egg, and then twice also in the bread-crumbs. Fry them -well, and send them to table in their own gravy. Saffron, scattered -thickly over them while frying, is an improvement much relished by the -eaters. - -Veal is too insipid to be fried or broiled plain. - -If you live where cream is plenty, add to this fry two or three -spoonfuls. - -Minced veal, cold, is an excellent ingredient for forcemeats. - - -KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND BACON.--Unless your family is very small, get two -knuckles of veal, and have them sawed into three pieces each. Put them -into a pot with two pounds of ham or bacon; cover them with water, and -stew them slowly, skimming them well. Season them with a little pepper, -but no salt, as the bacon will be salt enough. When the scum ceases to -rise, put in four onions and four turnips, and six potatos pared, and -quartered; also, a carrot and two parsnips, scraped and cut into pieces. -Let the whole boil till all the meat and all the vegetables are -thoroughly done, and very tender. Drain them well, and serve up the -whole on one large dish, having other vegetables served separately. - -If you wish to have green vegetables, such as greens, young sprouts, -poke, or string beans, flavored with bacon, put them to boil in a pot -with the bacon only, and take another pot for the veal, and white -vegetables, such as onions, turnips, &c. You may put the veal and bacon -on the same dish. - - -SOUTHERN STEW (_of veal_.)--Peel and boil a half dozen fresh spring -onions, and then drain them well and slice them thin. Have ready two -pounds or more of nice veal, sliced very thin, small, and evenly. Lay -the veal in a stew-pan, and season it slightly with salt, and _a very -little_ cayenne. Cover the veal with the sliced onions, and lay upon -them some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. If you cannot obtain -very excellent fresh butter, substitute lard, or cold gravy, or -dripping of roast veal, which last will be best if you have enough of -it. Finish with a flavoring of powdered nutmeg or mace, and the grated -yellow rind of a fresh lemon. - -This stew is very nice. It may be made with lamb or chicken, cut very -small. - - -VEAL KEBOBBED, (_or kibaubed_.)--Cut into small thin slices some lean -veal from the loin, chump end, or fillet. Trim them into a round or -circular form. Season them with pepper, salt, and turmeric or curry -powder. If onions are liked, slice some large ones, and lay them on the -pieces of veal. Cover them with slices of ham, cut round like the veal, -but a little smaller. Roll up the slices, (the ham inside,) and tie them -on skewers. Then roast or bake them. When done, take them off the -skewers, and send them to table in the gravy that has fallen from them. -This is a Turkish dish, and is much liked. - - -VEAL FRITTERS.--Take some thin slices of cold roast veal, and trim them -round or circular. Beat them with a rolling-pin, to make them very -tender, and season them with a little salt and pepper and some powdered -nutmeg. Also some grated fresh yellow rind of lemon-peel. Make a very -light batter, of eggs, milk, and flour; in the proportion of four -well-beaten eggs to a pint of milk; and a large half pint of sifted -flour: the eggs beaten first, and then stirred gradually into the milk -in turn with the flour. Have ready a frying-pan, nearly full of boiling -lard. Drop into it two large spoonfuls of the batter. Then put in a -slice of the veal, and cover it with two more large spoonfuls of the -batter. As the fritters are fried, take them up with a perforated -skimmer, and drain them. - - -VEAL PATTIES.--Mince very fine, some cold roast veal, or some cold -chicken, mixing with it some cold minced ham, or cold smoked tongue. Add -some yolk of hard-boiled eggs, crumbled or minced. Season the mixture -with powdered mace and nutmeg, moistened with cream or soft fresh -butter. Have ready some nice puff-paste, rolled out thin, and cut into -oval or circular pieces. Cover the half of each with the mixture, spread -on evenly and thickly. Then, upon that, fold over the other half, -(uniting both,) and crimp them together, in very small notches. Brush -their outsides all over with some raw egg, slightly beaten, and lay them -in large square tin pans to bake. Send them to table on china dishes. - -These patties are excellent made of cold game. The green tops of boiled -asparagus will improve the mixture. - - -FRIED LIVER.--Put into a frying-pan some nice thin slices of ham or -bacon, that have soaked all night, and fry them in their own fat. Have -ready your calf's liver, cut into slices not too thin, as that will -render them hard. Take out the ham as soon as it is done, put it into a -hot dish, and cover it closely. Lay the slices of liver into the gravy -of the bacon that is left in the frying-pan, sprinkling it well with -chopped parsley. It must be thoroughly done. Then dish with the bacon. - -To those who like them, some onions will be thought an improvement to -fried liver. First parboil the onions: then slice them, season them with -a little salt and pepper, and fry them with the liver. - -If lettuces are in season, quarter a fresh one, and lay it under the -liver when you dish it, having previously removed the thickest part of -the stalk. The liver of beef or sheep is not seen at good tables. It is -very inferior to that of calf's, being hard and coarse. - - -LARDED LIVER.--Wash and drain a nice fat calf's liver. Liver of beef or -mutton is never seen at a good table; they are hard, coarse, and -tasteless, and only eaten by the poor, while the livers of veal and -poultry are considered very nice. Divide it into equal portions. Lard -them thickly with small slips of fat bacon, inserted at regular -distances with a larding-needle, and very near each other. Season the -liver with powdered nutmeg and mace. Put into a stew-pan, in the bottom -of which you have laid a large slice or two of fat bacon. Let it stew -gently, till thoroughly done and tender throughout. When you take the -liver out of the stew-pan, stir into the gravy left at the bottom, some -thick catchup, either mushroom or tomato. Do not send the slices of -bacon to table with the liver. - -If liked, surround the liver while cooking, with small button onions, -(peeled and washed,) and see that they are well done. Serve them up on -the same dish. It is best always to boil onions before frying them. - - -STEWED LIVER.--Having soaked a fine calf's liver for two hours in cold -water, cut it into thick slices, and then cut the slices into mouthfuls. -Chop fine a small bunch of sweet marjoram, and sprinkle it among the -liver, seasoning with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and powdered mace. Put it -into a stew-pan, and cook it in lard or fresh butter. Make some nice -toast, and dip it for a minute in hot water, having pared off all the -crust. Lay the toast in the bottom of a deep dish, after covering it all -over with the stewed liver. - - -LIVER RISSOLES.--Take a calf's liver, and remove carefully all the -veins. Weigh a pound of it, boil it, and when cold, mince it very finely -with a quarter of a pound of suet, either of beef or veal. Add a quarter -of a pound of finely grated bread-crumbs. Season it with cayenne, -powdered mace, and nutmeg, and a very little salt. Mix in two -well-beaten eggs. Shape them into oval forms, about the size of large -walnuts, and fry them in plenty of boiling hot lard, draining them all -on a perforated skimmer, before they go to table. - - -LIVER PIE.--Prepare a fine fresh calf's liver. Split it in long pieces. -Lay it in a pan of cold water for an hour or two. Afterwards take it out -and wipe it dry, and boil it till tender. Drain it when done, and chop -it large with a slice of cold ham. Season it with pepper and nutmeg, (no -salt for any thing that has ham in it,) and add some minced sweet -marjoram and sweet basil, and two yolks of hard-boiled eggs, grated or -minced. The grated yellow rind of a fresh lemon will be an improvement. -Make a very nice light paste, and line a pie dish with it. Then fill it -high with the mixture, laying on the top several pieces of fine fresh -butter. Cover it with a lid of paste, notching the edges handsomely, and -cutting a cross-slit on the top. Bake it light brown, and serve it up, -either hot or cold. It will be found very nice. - -With the same mixture you may make liver dumplings, enclosing them in a -nice paste, and boiling them; or a liver pudding, boiling the mixture in -one large paste, and tying it in a cloth, leaving room for it to swell. - - -CHITTERLINGS OR CALF'S TRIPE.--This is very delicate and digestible, and -is nice at breakfast, or as a side dish at dinner. To prepare it for -cooking, it should be cut open with scissors, emptied, and thoroughly -cleaned, and then laid all night, or for several hours, in cold water, -_slightly_ salted. It can be bought of the veal butchers ready prepared, -and run on a wooden skewer. Wash it again just before cooking. Cut it -into small pieces, and boil it slowly till _quite_ tender, in water -enough to keep it well covered. When entirely done, take it up, drain -it, and keep it warm. Have ready some onions boiled in milk till quite -soft, and sliced thin. Melt some excellent fresh butter, in milk -thickened with flour. Make a round of very nice toast, with the crust -pared off. Dip it for a minute in hot water; lay it in the bottom of a -deep dish. Cover it thickly with the onion sauce, and place the -chitterlings upon it, seasoning them with pepper and vinegar. It will be -an improvement to boil with them four or five blades of mace. Eat -vinegar with it, always. Tarragon vinegar is best. This dish deserves to -be more in use. Try it. - - -FRIED CHITTERLINGS.--Get chitterlings ready prepared by the butcher. -Wash them, and let them lie an hour or two in weak salt and water. Then -drain them, cut them in pieces, and parboil them. Dry them in a clean -cloth. Make a batter of two or three beaten eggs, and a pint of milk, -with a heaped table-spoonful of flour. Put into a frying-pan an ample -portion of the dripping of roast veal or pork, and when it boils, -(having first dipped each piece of the chitterling into the batter,) fry -them in the dripping. They must be thoroughly done. You may fry them in -lard, or fresh butter. - -This is a nice breakfast dish. - - -BAKED CHITTERLINGS.--Having first parboiled the chitterlings, lay among -them some bits of fresh butter, season them with powdered nutmeg, put -them into a deep dish, set it into an oven, and bake them brown. - -This is a side dish at dinner. - - -FINE VEAL PIE.--Boil, in two quarts of water, two unskinned calf's feet, -adding the yellow rind of a large lemon, pared as thin as possible, or -grated, and its squeezed juice. Also, two broken-up sticks of cinnamon, -half a dozen blades of mace, and two glasses of sweet wine. Boil all -these together (skimming well,) till the calf's feet are in rags, and -all their flesh has dropped from the bone. Then put the whole into a -jelly-bag and let it drip into a broad bowl. Set it away closely -covered. Have ready two pounds of the parboiled chump end of a loin of -veal cut into square pieces. Make a nice puff paste, and line with it a -deep pie-dish. Put the pieces of veal into it, (all the fat cut off,) -and intersperse them with a dozen or more forcemeat balls, each about as -large as an English walnut. The balls may be made of cold minced chicken -and ham, minced suet, bread-crumbs, and hard-boiled yolk of egg grated -or crumbled fine; seasoned with sweet herbs, and grated lemon rind. Or -they may be sweet balls of bread-crumbs, butter, chopped sultana -raisins, and chopped citron, seasoned with nutmeg. Having dispersed them -among the pieces of veal, put in the jelly made from the calf's feet. -Cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste, cut a cross slit in the centre; -notch the edges, and bake it brown. This pie is for a company dish. - - -A PLAIN VEAL PIE.--Cut the meat from an uncooked breast of veal, and -stew it in a very little water. Have ready a pie dish lined with a nice -paste. Put in a layer of stewed veal, with its gravy, and cover it with -a layer of sausage meat; then veal again, and then sausage meat. Repeat -this till the dish is full, finishing with the sausage. Cover it with a -lid of paste, and bake it brown. This is a cheap and easy family pie. - - -VEAL LOAF.--Take a cold fillet of veal, and (omitting the fat and skin) -mince the meat as fine as possible. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of -the fattest part of a cold ham, also chopped small. Add a tea-cupful of -grated bread-crumbs; a grated nutmeg; half a dozen blades of mace, -powdered; the grated yellow rind of a lemon; and two beaten eggs. Season -with a salt-spoon of salt, and half a salt-spoon of cayenne. Mix the -whole well together, and make it into the form of a loaf. Then glaze it -over with beaten yolk of egg; and strew the surface evenly, all over, -with bread raspings, or with pounded cracker. Set the dish into a -dutch-oven, and bake it half an hour, or till hot all through. Have -ready a gravy made of the trimmings of the veal, stewed in some of the -gravy that was left when the fillet was roasted the day before. When -sufficiently cooked, take out the meat, and thicken the gravy with -beaten yolk of egg, stirred in about three minutes before you take it -from the fire. - -Send the veal loaf to table, in a deep dish, with the gravy poured round -it. - -Chicken loaf, or turkey loaf, may be made in this manner. - - -STEWED CALF'S HEAD.--Take a fine, large calf's head; empty it; wash it -clean, and boil it till it is quite tender, in just water enough to -cover it. Then carefully take out the bones, without spoiling the -appearance of the head. Season it with a little salt and cayenne, and a -grated nutmeg. Pour over it the liquor in which it has been boiled, -adding a jill of vinegar, and two table-spoonfuls of capers, or of green -nasturtion seeds, that have been pickled. Let it stew very slowly for -half an hour. Have ready some forcemeat balls made of minced veal-suet, -grated bread-crumbs, grated lemon-peel, and sweet marjoram,--adding -beaten yolk of egg to bind the other ingredients together. Put in the -forcemeat balls, and stew it slowly a quarter of an hour longer, adding -some bits of butter rolled in flour to enrich the gravy. Send it to -table hot. - - -EXCELLENT MINCED VEAL.--Take three or four pounds of the lean only of a -fillet or loin of veal, and mince it very finely, adding a slice or two -of cold ham, minced also. Add two or three small young onions, chopped -small, a tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram leaves rubbed from the stalks, -the yellow rind of a small lemon grated, and a tea-spoonful of mixed -mace and nutmeg powdered. Mix all well together, and dredge it with a -little flour. Put it into a stew-pan, with sufficient gravy of cold -roast veal to moisten it, and a large table-spoonful or more of fresh -butter. Stir it well, and let it stew till thoroughly done. If the veal -has been previously cooked, a quarter of an hour will be sufficient. It -will be much improved by adding a pint or more of small button -mushrooms, cut from the stems, and then chopped small. Also, by stirring -in two table-spoonfuls of cream about five minutes before it is taken -from the fire. - - -VEAL WITH OYSTERS.--Take two fine cutlets of about a pound each. Divide -them into several pieces, cut thin. Put them into a frying-pan, with -boiling lard, and let them fry awhile. When the veal is almost done, add -to it a pint of large, fine oysters,--their liquor thickened with a few -grated bread-crumbs, and seasoned with mace and nutmeg powdered. -Continue the frying till the veal and oysters are thoroughly done. Send -it to table in a covered dish. - - -TERRAPIN VEAL.--Take some cold roast veal, (the fillet or the loin) and -cut it into mouthfuls. Put it in a skillet or stew-pan. Have ready a -dressing made of six or seven hard-boiled eggs, minced fine; a small -tea-spoonful of tarragon mustard; a salt-spoonful of salt; and the same -of cayenne pepper; a large tea-cupful (half a pint) of cream, and two -glasses of sherry or Madeira wine. The dressing must be thoroughly -mixed. Pour it over the veal, and then give the whole a hard stir. Cover -it, and let it stew over the fire for ten minutes. Then transfer it to a -deep dish, and send it to table hot. - -Cold roast duck or fowl may be drest as above. Also, venison. - - -VEAL OLIVES.--Take some cold fillet of veal and cold ham, and cut them -into thin square slices of the same size and shape, trimming the edges -evenly. Lay a slice of veal on every slice of ham, and spread some -beaten yolk of egg over the veal. Have ready a thin forcemeat, made of -grated bread-crumbs, sweet marjoram rubbed fine, fresh butter, and -grated lemon-peel, seasoned with nutmeg and a little cayenne pepper. -Spread this over the veal, and then roll up each slice tightly with the -ham. Tie them round securely with coarse thread or fine twine; run a -bird-spit through them, and roast them well. For sauce, simmer in a -small sauce-pan, some cold veal gravy with two spoonfuls of cream, and -some mushroom catchup. - - -VEAL RISSOLES.--Take as much fine wheat bread as will weigh one pound, -after all the crust is cut off. Slice it; put it into a pan and pour -over it as much rich milk as will soak it thoroughly. After it has -soaked a quarter of an hour, lay it in a sieve and press it dry. Mince -as finely as possible a pound of veal cutlet with six ounces of veal -suet; then mix in gradually the bread; adding a salt-spoonful of salt, a -slight sprinkling of cayenne, and a small tea-spoonful of powdered mace -and nutmeg mixed; also the yellow rind of a lemon grated. Beat two eggs, -and moisten the mixture with them. Then divide it into equal portions, -and with a little flour on your hands roll it into oval balls rather -smaller than an egg. Strew over them some dry bread-crumbs; then fry -them in lard or fresh butter--drain them well, and send them to table -hot. For gravy (which should be commenced before the rissoles) put some -bits and trimmings of veal into a small sauce-pan, with as much water as -will cover them; a very little pepper and salt; and three or four blades -of mace. Cover the sauce-pan closely, and let the meat stew till all the -strength is extracted; skimming it well. Then strain it; return the -liquor to the sauce-pan; add a bit of butter rolled in flour; and -squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Give it a boil up, and then, at the -last, stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. Serve up this gravy in a -sauce-boat, to eat with the rissoles. - -Instead of stewing meat for the purpose, you may make this gravy with -the drippings of roast veal saved from the day before. You have then -only to melt it over the fire; adding the seasoning; and giving it one -boil. - -Similar rissoles may be made of minced chicken or turkey. - - -TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS.--The sweetbread belonging to the breast of the -calf is far superior to that which is found about the throat, being -larger, whiter, more tender, and more delicate. Always buy them in -preference. They should be set immediately on ice, and prepared for -cooking as speedily as possible, for they spoil very soon. Soak them in -warm water till all the blood is discharged. Then put them into boiling -water, and boil them five minutes. After this, lay them immediately in a -pan of very cold water. This sudden transition from hot water to cold, -will blanch or whiten them. Dark-colored sweetbreads make a very bad -appearance. Four are generally sufficient for a small dish. But as, if -well cooked, they are much liked, it is best to have six; or else eight -upon two dishes. If the sweetbreads are to be cut up before cooking, -remove and throw away the gristle or pipe that pervades every one. If -they are to be cooked whole, you may leave the pipe in, to be taken out -by the eaters. - -For company, it is usual to lard sweetbreads with slips of fat ham or -bacon, or of cold smoked tongue. - -Sweetbreads are used as side-dishes at dinners, or at nice breakfasts. - - -SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES.--Having trimmed some sweetbreads nicely, and -removed the gristle, parboil them, and then mince them very fine. Add -grated bread, and season with a very little salt and pepper; some -powdered mace and nutmeg; and some grated lemon-rind. Moisten the whole -with cream, and make them up into small cones or sugar-loaves; forming -and smoothing them nicely. Have ready some beaten egg, mixed with grated -bread-crumbs. Dip into it each croquette, and fry them slowly in fresh -butter. Serve them hot; standing up on the dish, and with a sprig of -parsley in the top of each. - -Sweetbreads should never be used unless perfectly fresh. They spoil very -rapidly. As soon as they are brought from market they should be split -open, and laid in cold water. Never attempt to keep sweetbreads till -next day, except in cold weather; and then on ice. - -Similar croquettes may be made of cold boiled chicken; or cold roast -veal; or of oysters, minced raw, and seasoned and mixed as above. - - -FRICASSEED SWEETBREADS.--Take half a dozen sweetbreads; clean them -thoroughly, and lay them for an hour or two in a pan of water, having -first removed the strings and gristle. Then put them into a stew-pan -with as much rich milk or cream as will cover them well, and a very -little salt. Stew them slowly, till tender throughout, and thoroughly -done, saving the liquid. Then take them up; cover them; and set them -near the fire to keep warm. Prepare a quarter of a pound of butter, -divided into four pieces, and rolled in flour. Put the butter into the -milk in which the sweetbreads were boiled, and add a few sprigs of -parsley cut small; five or six blades of mace; half a nutmeg grated; and -a very little cayenne pepper. Have ready the yolks of three eggs -well-beaten. Return the sweetbreads to the gravy; let it just come to a -boil; and then stir in the beaten egg _immediately before_ you take the -fricassee from the fire, otherwise it will curdle. Serve it up in a deep -dish with a cover. - -Chickens, cut up, may be fricasseed in this manner. - - -TOMATO SWEETBREADS.--Cut up a quarter of a peck (or more) of fine ripe -tomatos; set them over the fire, and let them stew with nothing but -their own juice, till they go entirely to pieces. Then press them -through a sieve, to clear the liquid from the seeds and skins. Have -ready four or five sweetbreads that have been trimmed nicely, cleared -from the gristle, and laid open to soak in warm water. Put them into a -stew-pan with the tomato-juice, seasoned with a little salt and cayenne. -Add two or three table-spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour. Set the -sauce-pan over the fire, and stew the sweetbreads in the tomato-juice -till they are thoroughly done. A few minutes before you take them off, -stir in two beaten yolks of eggs Serve up the sweetbreads in a deep -dish, with the tomato poured over them. - - -SWEETBREADS AND CAULIFLOWERS.--Take four large sweetbreads, and two fine -cauliflowers. Split open the sweetbreads and remove the gristle. Soak -them awhile in lukewarm water. Then put them into a sauce-pan of boiling -water, and let them boil ten minutes over the fire. Afterwards, lay them -in a pan of very cold water. The parboiling will render them white; and -putting them directly from the hot water into the cold will give them -firmness. Having washed and drained the cauliflowers, quarter them, and -lay them in a broad stew-pan with the sweetbreads upon them, seasoned -with a very little cayenne, four or five blades of mace, and some -nutmeg. Add as much water as will cover them; put on closely the lid of -the pan, and let the whole stew for about an hour. Then take a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter, and roll it in two table-spoonfuls of flour. -Add it to the stew with a tea-cupful of rich milk or cream, and give it -one boil up, not more, or the milk may curdle. Serve it hot in a deep -dish; the sweetbreads in the middle with the gravy poured over them, and -the quartered cauliflowers laid handsomely round. This stew will be -found delicious. - -Broccoli may be thus stewed with sweetbreads. - - -SWEETBREAD OMELET.--For an omelet of six or seven eggs, take two fine -sweetbreads. Split them, take out the gristle, and soak them in two -lukewarm waters, to extract all the blood. Then put them into very hot -water, boil them ten minutes, take them out, set them away to cool, and -afterwards mince them small, and season them with _a very little salt_ -and cayenne pepper, and some grated nutmeg. Beat the eggs (omitting the -whites of two) till very light. Then mix in the chopped sweetbreads. Put -three ounces or more of fresh butter into a small frying-pan, and place -it over the fire. Stir the butter with a spoon, as it melts, and when it -comes to a boil put in the mixture, stirring it awhile after it is all -in. Fry it a rich brown. Heat the plate or dish in which you turn it out -of the pan. An omelet should never be turned while frying. The top may -be well browned by holding above it a salamander or red-hot shovel. - -If you wish it very thick, have _three_ sweetbreads. - -While frying the omelet, lift the edge occasionally by slipping a -knife-blade under it, that the butter may get well underneath. - -If omelets are cooked too much they will become tough, and leather-like. -Many persons prefer having them sent to table as _soft omelets_, before -they have set, or taken the form of a cake. In this case, serve up the -omelet in a deep dish, and help it with a spoon. - - -SWEETBREADS AND OYSTERS.--Take four sweetbreads, and when they have been -soaked and blanched, quarter them, and remove the pipe. Strain the -liquor from three dozen large fresh oysters, season it with powdered -nutmeg and mace, and a little cayenne. Put the quartered sweetbreads -into a stew-pan, and pour over them enough of the oyster-liquor to cover -them well, adding, if you have it, three large spoonfuls of the gravy of -roast veal, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut into four -bits; each bit rolled or dredged in flour. When the sweetbreads are -done, put in the oysters, (first removing their gristle or hard part,) -and take them out again as soon as they are plumped, which should be in -five minutes. If allowed to boil, the oysters will shrivel, and become -hard and tasteless. Add, at the last, two wine-glasses of cream, and -shake the pan about, for a few minutes. Serve up in a deep dish. - - -SWEETBREAD PIES.--Make shells of puff-paste, and bake them empty. When -done, fill them to the top with the above mixture. Have ready a lid for -each pie, baked on a flat plate, and lay it on the top of the filling. - - -STEWED SWEETBREADS.--After blanching them, extract the pipe very -carefully, and fill its place with a stuffing made of cold minced -chicken or veal, minced ham or tongue sweet marjoram, nutmeg, grated -lemon-peel, and the crumbled yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Fasten the -openings with small wooden skewers, and put the sweetbreads into a broad -stew-pan with a thin slice of ham under each, and another on the top of -each, kept in place by a splinter-skewer. Stew the sweetbreads in the -gravy of roast veal, and before you send them to table take out the -skewers. - -Or make a gravy of uncooked trimmings of veal or beef, stewed slowly in -as much water as will cover them well, and seasoned with pepper and -salt--or, stew with the fresh meat, as much ham or bacon as will flavor -the gravy, (using no other salt.) When all the essence is extracted from -the meat, stir in a bit of butter dredged with flour. The flour for -gravies should be browned. Strain the gravy, and add any other flavoring -you like. - -To brown flour, spread it evenly on a large dish or flat tin, and place -it before the fire, or in a rather cool oven. Scrape it up from the -edges where it will get the brownest. Take care it burns or blackens -nowhere. Keep it for use in a dry tin box. - - -BAKED SWEETBREADS.--Parboil four large sweetbreads, having first -blanched them. When cold, lard them all over the surface, with slips of -bacon the size of small straws. Lay them in a shallow pan, putting under -each sweetbread a piece of nice fresh butter with a very little flour -mixed into it. Pour into the pan a glass of nice white wine, mixed with -the juice and grated yellow rind of a lemon. Season also with grated -nutmeg. Or for sauce, you may use mushroom catchup, with a little salad -oil stirred into it. - -If you do not live in a place where nice fresh butter is to be obtained, -endeavor to do without butter at all, rather than use that which is -strong, rancid, or too salt. Bad butter tastes through every -thing--spoils every thing, and is also extremely unwholesome, as -decomposition (or in plain terms _putrefaction_,) has already commenced. -Rather than use what makes all your food taste worse instead of better, -try to substitute something else--such as beef or fresh pork drippings, -suet, lard, or olive oil; or, molasses, honey, or stewed fruit. _We -know_ that with these it is possible to live in health for years, -without tasting butter. Nevertheless, good butter is a good thing, and -an improvement to all sorts of cookery. - - - - -PORK. - - -PORK.--Young pork has a thin rind or skin, easily indented by pressing -with the finger, and the lean will break by pinching. If fresh, the meat -is smooth and dry; but if damp and clammy, it is tainted. If the fat is -rough with little kernels, the pig has had a disease resembling the -measles, and to eat it is poisonous. Pigs that have short legs, and -thick necks, are the best. Pigs fed entirely on slop make very bad pork. -They should be kept up for at least two months, fed with corn, and not -allowed during the time of fattening to eat any sort of trash. No animal -tastes more of its food than a pig. If allowed to eat the garbage of -fish, they will not only have a fishy taste, but a smell of fish so -intolerable, when cooking, that such pork cannot be endured in the -house. During the two months that they are kept up to fatten, all their -food must be wholesome as well as abundant, and it does them much good -to have soap-suds given to them occasionally. Let them have plenty of -corn, and plenty of fresh water. They will thrive better and make finer -pork, if their pens are not allowed to be dirty. No animal actually -likes dirt, and even pigs would be clean if they knew how. It is very -beneficial to young pigs to wash them well in soap and water. We have -seen this often done with great care. - -The pork in Spain and Portugal is delicious, from being fed chiefly on -the large chestnuts, of which there is great abundance in those -countries. These pigs are short-legged and thick-bodied--a profitable -species. The best pieces of a pig are the hind-leg and loin; the next is -the shoulder, or fore-leg. The spare-rib, (pronounced sparrib by the -English,) affords so little meat, and the bones are so tedious to pick, -that it is seldom seen on good American tables, nothing being popular -with us that cannot be eaten fast or fastish. - -Pork must be thoroughly cooked; done well, and completely to the very -bone. Who ever asked for a slice of pork _done rare_? Who could eat pork -with the blood appearing, when served? So it is with veal. Underdone -veal, or underdone chicken, is not to be thought of without disgust. - -Pork, for boiling, is always previously salted or corned. Fresh pork, -however, is very good _stewed_ or cooked slowly in a very little water, -and with plenty of vegetables in the same pot. The vegetables should be -potatos, (either sweet or white,) pared and cut into pieces--parsnips -the same, or yams in thick slices. For corned pork cook the vegetables -separately from the meat, or they will taste too salt and fat. They -should be cabbage, or green sprouts, green beans or peas, green corn, -young poke, squash, pumpkin, or cashaw, (winter squash,) boiled, mashed, -and squeezed. - -For salt pork, in winter, have dried beans or dried peas; first boiled, -and then baked. - - -TO ROAST PORK.--The roasting pieces are the loin, the leg, the saddle, -the fillet, the shoulder and the spare-rib, (which last is found between -the shoulder or fore-leg,) and the griskin or back-bone. All roast pork -should be well seasoned; rubbed with pepper, salt, or powdered sage or -marjoram. Score the skin with a sharp knife, making deep lines at -regular distances, about an inch apart. Cross these lines with others, -so as to form squares or diamonds. Make a stuffing of minced sage or -marjoram leaves; bread-crumbs; if liked, a very little minced onion -previously boiled; and some powdered mace. Introduce this stuffing -profusely wherever it can be inserted, loosening a piece of the skin, -and fastening it down again with a small skewer. In a leg or shoulder -you can put in a great deal at the knuckle. In a fillet or large end of -the leg, stuff the place from whence you have taken the bone. Put the -pork down to roast not very close to the fire, but place it nearer when -the skin begins to brown. You can soon baste it with its own gravy; and -see that it is thoroughly cooked, before removing it from the spit. -After taking up the meat, skim the fat from the gravy, and stir in a -little flour to thicken it. - -The crackling or skin will be much more crisp and tender if you go all -over it with sweet oil, or lard, before you put it to the fire. - -Always accompany roast pork with apple sauce, served in a deep dish or a -sauce-tureen. - -Cold roast pork is very good sliced at tea or breakfast. - - -SWEET POTATO PORK.--Boil, peel, and mash a sufficiency of sweet potatos, -moistened with butter and egg. Cover with them the bottom of a deep -dish; then put on a layer of slices of fresh pork, sprinkled with minced -sage or marjoram. Next, another thick layer of mashed sweet potatos; -then another layer of pork cutlets, and so on till the dish is full, -finishing with mashed sweet potatos. Bake it brown on the surface. - - -CHESTNUT PORK.--Where the large Spanish chestnuts abound, a similar dish -may be made of layers of chestnuts boiled, peeled, and mashed, and -layers of fresh pork in thin slices. - - -ROASTED SPARE-RIB.--This will do for a second dish at the table of a -very small family. Rub it all over with powdered sage, pepper, and salt, -and having put it on the spit, lay the thickest end to the fire. Dredge -it with powdered sage and baste it with a little butter. When dished, -have ready some mashed potatos made into flat cakes, and browned on the -top, and laid all round the pork, with some in another dish. Send to -table apple sauce also. - -When apples are difficult to procure, substitute dried peaches, stewed -very soft, and in no more water than remains about them after being -washed. Sweeten them while hot, as soon as you take them from the fire, -mashing them smoothly. - - -TO DRESS A YOUNG PIG.--The pig should not be more than three weeks old. -If not fat, it is unfit to eat. To be in perfection, a sucking pig -should be eaten the day it is killed, or its goodness and tenderness is -impaired every hour. It requires great care in roasting, and constant -watching. The custom of _roasting_ a very young pig has now gone much, -into disuse, it being found that baking answers the purpose equally -well or better, and is far less troublesome. - -The pig should be washed perfectly clean, inside and out, and wiped very -dry. Have ready a stuffing made of slices of bread, thickly buttered and -soaked in milk, seasoned with powdered nutmeg and mace, and the grated -yellow rind of a lemon, with the _hard-boiled_ yolk of an egg, crumbled, -and a large handful, or more, of fine bloom raisins, seeded and cut in -half, mix all these ingredients well, and fill with them the body of the -pig, sewing it up afterwards. Or you may make a plain stuffing of -chopped sage and onions, boiled together, with marjoram; and mixed with -bread-crumbs and butter. Having trussed the pig, with the fore-legs bent -back, and the hind-legs forward, rub it _all over_ with sweet oil, or -with fresh butter tied in a rag. Lay it in a baking-pan, with a little -water in the bottom. Then set it in an oven, not too hot, and bake it -well, basting it frequently with butter. When done, dish it whole. Skim -the gravy in the pan, and mix in some flour. Give it one boil up, having -first put into it the chopped liver and heart of the pig, taken out -after it was cooked, and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg. - -The practice is now obsolete of dissecting a pig before it goes to -table, splitting it down the back, and down the front, and laying the -two halves in reverse positions, or back to back, with one half the -split head at each side, and one ear at each end, the brains being taken -out to enrich the gravy. All these disgusting things have been discarded -by the better taste of modern epicures. And the pig is baked and comes -to table whole. We have always thought it a most unfeminine fancy for a -lady to enjoy eating the head of any thing, and the brain particularly. - - -PORK STEAKS, STEWED.--Take some nice fresh pork steaks, cut either from -the leg or the loin. Trim off the superfluous fat. Season them with a -little salt and pepper, and plenty of minced sage. Put in with them, -minced onions, sliced sweet potatos, parsnips, and white potatos cut -into pieces, also some lima beans. Pour in barely sufficient water to -cover them; or else stew the pork in a very little lard. Apples cored, -pared, and baked whole; the core-place filled with sugar, moistened with -a very little water, to put in the bottom of the baking-dish, are a very -nice accompaniment to pork steaks. - - -PORK AND APPLES.--Take nice steaks, or cutlets, of fresh pork. Season -them with a little pepper, and a very little salt. Pare, core, and -quarter some fine juicy apples. Flavor them with the grated yellow rind -and the juice of one or two lemons, and strew among them plenty of -sugar. Stew them with merely sufficient water to prevent their burning; -or else a little lard without water. When thoroughly done, serve all up -in the same dish. If you cannot procure lemons, flavor the apple with -rose-water, or nutmeg, _after_ it is cooked. Rose-water evaporates much -in cooking. - - -PORK STEAKS, FRIED.--Cut them thin, but do not trim off the fat. -Sprinkle them well all over with finely minced sage or sweet marjoram. -Lay them in a frying-pan, and fry them well on both sides, keeping them -very hot after they are done. Wash out the frying-pan, (or have another -one ready, which is better,) and put it over the fire with plenty of -lard, or fresh butter. Have ready plenty of slices of large juicy -apples, pared, cored, and cut into round pieces. Fry them well, and when -done, take them up on a perforated skimmer, to drain the lard from them. -Sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and pile them on a dish to eat with -the pork. - -Otherwise, send to table with the pork, a dish of apple sauce made in -the usual manner, or a dish of dried peaches, stewed, mashed, and -sweetened. - - -PORK APPLE POT-PIE.--Make a plentiful quantity of nice paste. With some -of it line the sides (but not the bottom) of a large pot. At the very -bottom lay a slice of _fresh_ pork, with most of the fat trimmed off. -Season it with a very little salt and pepper, and add some pieces of -paste. Next put in a thick layer of juicy apples, cut in slices, strewed -with brown sugar. Add another layer of pork, and another of sliced -apples. Proceed thus till the pot is nearly full, finishing with a lid -of paste, not fitting quite closely. Cut a cross-slit in the top, -through which pour in some sweet cider to moisten it, and set it to -cooking. Keep the pot covered; set it at once over a good fire, but not -so hot as to burn the pie. See that it is well done before you take it -up. It is a convenient dish in the country at the season of apple -picking, cider making, and pork killing. - -Stewed or baked apples are always greatly improved by a flavoring of -lemon, rose-water, or nutmeg. - - -APPLE PORK PIE.--Core, peel, and quarter some fine juicy baking-apples. -Make a nice paste with fresh butter and sifted flour, and line with it -the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Put in the apples, and strew among -them sufficient brown sugar to make them very sweet. If you can obtain a -fresh lemon, pare off very thin the yellow rind, and squeeze the juice -to flavor the apples. Prepare some fresh pork steaks, cut thin, and -divested of all the fat except a little at the edge; removing the bone. -Cover the apples with a layer of meat, and pour in a tea-cup of _sweet_ -cider. The contents of the pie should be heaped up in the centre. Have -ready a nice lid of paste, and cover the pie with it, closing and -crimping the edge. In the centre of the lid cut a cross-slit. Put it -into a hot oven and bake it well. This is a farm-house dish, and very -good. Try it. - -Apples have always been considered a suitable accompaniment to fresh -pork. - - -FILLET OF PORK.--Cut a fillet or round, handsomely and evenly, from a -fine leg of fresh pork. Remove the bone. Make a stuffing or forcemeat of -grated bread-crumbs; butter; a tea-spoonful of sweet marjoram, or -tarragon leaves; and sage leaves enough to make a small table-spoonful, -when minced or rubbed fine; all well mixed, and slightly seasoned with -pepper and salt. Then stuff it closely into the hole from whence the -bone was taken. Score the skin of the pork in circles to go all round -the fillet. These circles should be very close together, or about half -an inch apart. Rub into them, slightly, a little powdered sage. Put it -on the spit, and roast it well, till it is thoroughly done throughout; -as pork, if the least underdone, is not fit to eat. Place it, for the -first hour, not very close to the fire, that the meat may get well -heated all through, before the skin begins to harden so as to prevent -the heat from penetrating sufficiently. Then set it as near the fire as -it can be placed without danger of scorching. Keep it roasting steadily -with a bright, good, regular fire, for two or three hours, or longer -still if it is a large fillet. It may require near four hours. Baste it -at the beginning with sweet oil (which will make the skin very crisp) or -with lard. Afterwards, baste it with its own gravy. When done, skim the -fat from the gravy, and then dredge in a little flour to thicken it. -Send the pork to table with the gravy in a boat; and a deep dish of -apple sauce, made very thick, flavored with lemon, and sweetened well. - -A fillet of pork is excellent stewed slowly in a very little water, -having in the same stew-pot some sweet potatos, peeled, split, and cut -into long pieces. If stewed, put _no sage_ in the stuffing; and remove -the skin of the pork. This is an excellent family dish in the autumn. - - -ITALIAN PORK.--Take a nice leg of fresh pork; rub it well with fine salt -and let it lie in the salt for a week or ten days. When you wish to cook -it, put the pork into a large pot, with just sufficient water to cover -it; and let it simmer, slowly, during four hours; skimming it well. Then -take it out, and lay it on a large dish. Pour the water from the pot -into an earthen pan; skim it, and let it cool while you are skinning the -pork. Then put into a pot, a pint of good cider vinegar, mixed with half -a pound of brown sugar, and a pint of the water in which the pork has -been boiled, and from which all the fat has been carefully skimmed off. -Put in the pork with the upper side towards the bottom of the pot. Set -it again over the fire, (which must first be increased,) and heat the -inside of the pot-lid by standing it upright against the front of the -fire. Then cover the pot closely, and let the pork stew for an hour and -a half longer; basting it frequently with the liquid around it, and -keeping the pot-lid as hot as possible that the meat may be well -browned. When done, the pork will have somewhat the appearance of being -coated with molasses. Serve up the gravy with it. What is left of the -meat may be sliced cold for breakfast or luncheon. - -You may stew with it, when the pork is put into the pot a second time, -some large chestnuts, previously boiled and peeled. Or, instead of -chestnuts, sweet potatos, scraped, split, and cut into small pieces. - - -PORK OLIVES.--Cut slices from a fillet or leg of cold fresh pork. Make a -forcemeat in the usual manner, only substituting for sweet herbs some -sage-leaves, chopped fine. When the slices are covered with the -forcemeat, and rolled up and tied round, stew them slowly either in cold -gravy left of the pork, or in fresh lard. Drain them well before they go -to table. Serve them up on a bed of mashed turnips, or potatos, or of -mashed sweet potatos, if in season. - - -PIGS' FEET, FRIED.--Pigs' feet are frequently used for jelly, instead of -calves' feet. They are very good for this purpose, but a larger number -is required (from eight to ten or twelve) to make the jelly sufficiently -firm. After they have been boiled for jelly, extract the bones, and put -the meat into a deep dish: cover it with some good cider vinegar, -seasoned with sugar and a little salt and cayenne. Then cover the dish, -and set it away for the night. Next morning, take out the meat, and -having drained it well from the vinegar, put it into a frying-pan, in -which some lard has just come to a boil, and fry it for a breakfast -dish. - - -PORK AND BEANS.--Take a good piece of pickled pork, (not very fat,) and -to each pound of pork allow a quart of dried white beans. The bone -should be removed from the pork, and the beans well picked and washed. -The evening before they are wanted for cooking, put the beans and pork -to soak in _separate pans_; and just before bed-time, drain off the -water, and replace it with fresh. Let them soak all night. Early in the -morning, drain them well from the water, and wash first the beans, and -then the pork in a cullender. Having scored the skin in stripes, or -diamonds, put the pork into a pot with fresh cold water, and the beans -into another pot with sufficient cold water to cook them well. Season -the pork with a little pepper, but, of course, no salt. Boil them -separately and slowly till the pork is thoroughly done (skimming it -well) and till the beans have all burst open. Afterwards take them out, -and drain them well from the water. Then lay the pork in the middle of a -tin pan, (there must be no liquid fat about it) and the beans round it, -and over it, so as nearly to bury it from sight. Pour in a very little -water, and set the dish into a hot oven, to bake or brown for half an -hour. If kept too long in the oven the beans will become dry and hard. -If sufficiently boiled when separate, half an hour will be long enough -for the pork and beans to bake together. Carefully skim off any liquid -fat that may rise to the surface. Cover the dish, and send it to table -hot. - -For a small dish, two quarts of beans and two pounds of pork will be -enough. To this quantity, when put to bake in the oven, you may allow a -pint of water. - -This is a good plain dish, very popular in New England, and generally -liked in other parts of the country, if properly done. - - -PORK WITH CORN AND BEANS.--Boil a nice small leg of corned pork, skim it -well, and boil it thoroughly. Then have ready a quart, or more, of fresh -string-beans, each bean cut into only three pieces. Boil the beans for -an hour in a separate pot. In another pot boil four ears of young sweet -corn, and when soft and tender, cut it down from the cob, with a sharp -knife, and mix it with the boiled beans, having drained them, through a -cullender, from all the water that is about them. Having mixed them well -together, in a deep dish, season them with pepper, (no salt,) and add a -large lump of fresh butter. - -For green beans you may substitute dried white ones, boiled by -themselves, well drained, and seasoned with pepper and butter, and mixed -in the same dish before they are sent to table. Or the mixed corn and -beans may be heaped round the pork upon the same dish. - -To eat with them make some indian dumplings of corn meal and water, -mixed into a stiff dough, formed into thick dumplings, about as large -round as the top of a tea-cup, and boiled in a pot by themselves. - - -PORK WITH PEAS PUDDING.--Boil a nice piece of pickled or corned pork, -(the leg is the best,) and let it be well skinned, and thoroughly -cooked. To make the pudding, pick over and wash through cold water, a -quart of yellow split peas, and tie them in a square cloth, leaving -barely sufficient room for them to swell; but if too much space is -allowed for swelling, they will be weak and washy. When the peas are all -dissolved into a mass, turn them out of the cloth, and rub them through -a coarse sieve into a pan. Then add a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, mixed well into the peas, and a very little pepper. Beat light, -three yolks and one whole egg, and stir them into the peas a little at a -time. Then beat the whole very hard. Dip your pudding-cloth into hot -water; spread it out in a pan, and pour the mixture into it. Tie up the -cloth, and put the pudding into a pot of boiling water. Let it boil -steadily for at least an hour. When done, send it to table, and eat it -with the pork. - -Next day, if there is much left, boil both the pork and the pudding over -again, (the remains of the pudding tied in the cloth.) Let them boil -till thoroughly warmed throughout. Cut them in slices. Place them on the -same dish, the pork in the middle, with slices of pudding laid round, -and send them to the breakfast table, for strong healthy eaters. - - -SAUSAGE-MEAT.--To fifteen pounds of the lean of fresh pork, allow five -pounds of the fat. Having removed the skin, sinews, and gristle, chop -both the fat and lean as fine as possible, and mix them well together. -Rub to a powder sufficient sage-leaves to make four ounces when done. -Mix the sage with two ounces of fine salt, two ounces of brown sugar, an -ounce of powdered black pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne. -Add this seasoning to the chopped pork, and mix it thoroughly. Pack the -sausage-meat down, hard and closely, into stone jars, which must be kept -in a cool place, and well covered. When wanted for use, make some of it -into small flat cakes, dredge them with flour, and fry them well. The -fat that exudes from the sausage-cakes, while frying, will be sufficient -to cook them in. - - -SAUSAGE DUMPLING.--Make a good paste in the proportion of three mashed -potatos, and a quarter of a pound of finely minced suet to a quart of -flour. Roll it out into a thick sheet. Fill it with the best home-made -sausage meat. Lay the sausage meat in an even heap on the sheet of -dough, and close it up so as to form a large round dumpling. Dip a -square cloth in boiling water, shake it out, dredge it with flour, and -tie the dumpling in it, leaving room for it to swell. Put it into a pot -of boiling water, and keep it boiling hard till thoroughly done. Do not -turn it till immediately before it goes to table. It requires no sauce -but a little cold butter. It may be made into several small dumplings. - - -VEAL AND SAUSAGE PIE.--Line a deep oval dish with a very nice paste. Lay -at the bottom a thin veal cutlet, seasoned with powdered mace. Place -upon it some of the best sausage meat, spread thin; then another veal -cutlet, and then more sausage. Repeat this till the dish is full, -finishing with sausage meat on the top. Then cover the pie with a rather -thick lid or upper crust, uniting the two edges at the rim, by crimping -or notching them neatly. Make a cross slit in the centre of the lid. -Bake the pie well, and serve it up hot. - -Put no water into this pie, as the veal and the sausage will give out -sufficient gravy. We recommend this pie. - -If you live where veal cannot always be procured, substitute chicken or -turkey, boiled and cut up, and covered with layers of sausage; or else -thin slices of venison; or else, the best part of a pair of boiled or -roasted rabbits. - - -BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.--Take three pounds of the lean of a round of corned or -salted beef, and three pounds of the lean of corned or salted pork. -Boil them for an hour in separate pots. Take them up, let them grow -cold, and chop them separately. Chop also, very fine, two pounds of the -fat of bacon, and one pound of beef suet. When these things are all -separately minced, mix them well together, seasoning them well with -chopped sage, sweet marjoram, black pepper, and powdered mace. Also, if -liked, two or three boiled onions minced very small. Have ready some of -the large skins commonly used for these sausages. The skins must have -been carefully emptied, washed, and scraped till quite transparent. Fill -them with the above mixture, stuffing it in hard and evenly with a -sausage-stuffer, sewing and tying both ends securely. Put the sausages -into a brine or pickle, such as is made for ham, of salt, brown sugar, -and molasses mixed with water, and strong enough to bear up an egg. Let -the sausages remain a week in this pickle, turning them every day, and -keeping it closely covered. Then take them out and hang them up to dry, -tied in strings or links. Smoke them for a week over a fire of oak -sticks or corn-cobs. Afterwards, rub them over with salad oil, which is -much the better for being mixed with ashes of vine twigs. - -Sausages made faithfully as above, will be found equal to the real -Bologna, by the lovers of this sort of relish. When it is eaten they are -sliced very thin. Few ladies eat them. - - -HOG'S HEAD CHEESE.--Hog's head cheese is always made at what is called -"killing time." To make four cheeses of moderate size, take two large -hog's heads; two sets, (that is eight feet,) and the noses of all the -pigs that have been killed that day. Clean all these things well, and -then boil them to rags. Having drained off the liquid through a -cullender, spread out the things in large dishes, and carefully remove -all the bones, even to the smallest bits. With a chopper mince the meat -as fine as possible, and season it well with pepper, salt, sage, and -sweet marjoram, adding some powdered mace. Having divided the prepared -meats into four equal parts, tie up each portion tightly in a clean -coarse cloth, and press it into a compact cake, by putting on heavy -weights. It will be fit for use next day. In a cool dry place it will -keep all winter. It requires no farther cooking, and is eaten sliced at -breakfast, luncheon, or supper. If well made, and well seasoned with the -herbs and spices, it will be found very nice for a relish. - - -LIVER PUDDINGS.--Boil some pigs' livers, and when cold mince them, -adding some cold ham or bacon, in the proportion of a pound of liver to -a quarter of a pound of fat bacon. Add also some boiled pigs' feet, -allowing to each pound of liver four pigs' feet boiled, skinned, boned, -and chopped. Season with pepper, powdered mace or nutmeg, and sweet -herbs, (sweet basil and marjoram.) Put the mixture (packed hard,) into -straight-sided tin or white ware pans, and cover them with a clean -cloth. Put heavy weights on the top. Cover them also with folded brown -paper, and set them in a cool dry place. They will be fit to eat next -day. Slice them thick, and send them to the tea or breakfast table. Or -you may fill with the mixture, some nicely cleaned and very transparent -sausage skins, (of a large size,) and tie up the ends with coarse brown -thread, to be removed before going to table. - -You may cut them into large pieces, and broil them, or fry them in lard. - -Calves' liver makes still nicer puddings. - -Keep liver puddings in flat stone jars. - -Never use newspaper to cover or wrap up any thing eatable. The black -always rubs off, and the copperas in the printing ink is very poisonous. - - - - -HAM, etc. - - -BRINE FOR PICKLING MEAT.--To every four gallons of water allow four -pounds of fine salt, two ounces of saltpetre, three pounds of brown -sugar, and two quarts of West India molasses. Boil the whole together, -stirring it well, and skimming it after stirring. When clear, let it -cool. The meat being clean and dry, rub it all over with ground red -pepper. Then put as much meat into the pickling-tub as can be very well -covered by the brine, which must be poured on cold. Let it remain six -weeks in the pickle, (carefully taking off the scum,) and turning each -piece every day. Afterwards, hang it till it is dry outside, and then -smoke it well for a fortnight, hanging it high above the fire with the -large end downward. The fire in the smoke-house should be steadily kept -up all the time. Hickory or oak is the best wood for this purpose. On no -account use pine, cedar, spruce, or hemlock. They will communicate to -the meat a strong taste of turpentine, and render it uneatable. A fire -made of corn-cobs is excellent for smoking meat, and they should be -saved for that purpose. When the meat is smoked, rub it all over with -ground pepper to prevent insects, and sew up all the pieces in new -cotton cloths, coarse and thick, and then white-wash them. We have seen -ham-covers, painted with flowers and gilded. Since California, gilding -pervades the land. - -This pickle will be found excellent for hams, bacon, tongues, or beef. -Meat for pickling must be very fresh, and of excellent quality. Before -sewing it up in covers see that it is free from insects. If to go to -sea, pack in boxes of powdered charcoal for a long voyage. For a short -one, barrels of wood-ashes will do. - - -TO CURE HAMS.--To make good hams the pork must be of the best quality. -No animal tastes so much of its food as the pig. In America, we -consider a pig "killed off the slop" as unfit to eat; and so he is. All -our pigs are kept up in a pen, and fattened with Indian corn, or corn -meal, for several weeks previous to killing. A hundred pounds of corn -meal, (mixed with water to about the consistency of very thick mush,) is -said to be equal in fattening pigs to two hundred pounds of dry-shelled -corn. They should be kept up, and well fed for eight weeks; and -occasionally, in the country, where such fruits are superabundant, the -pigs should have a regale of melons, peaches, &c. This we have seen, and -the pork was, of course, very fine. The hams or hind-quarters are -considered the most valuable part of the animal. They are cured in -various modes. But the Newbold receipt has hitherto been the most -popular. Mr. Newbold was a Pennsylvania farmer. The following -directions, we believe, are authentic. - -For one hundred pounds of fine pork, take seven pounds of coarse salt, -five pounds of brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of -pearlash, and four gallons of water. Boil all together, and skim the -pickle when cold. Pour it on the meat. Let hams or tongues remain in the -pickling-tub eight weeks. Before it is smoked, hang it up and dry it two -or three days. Three weeks will be sufficient for pickling beef. -Previous to sewing the hams in cases, rub them all over with ground -black pepper. - -Soap-suds given frequently to pigs, when kept up to fatten, will greatly -promote their health. - - -BOILED HAM.--Having soaked a fine ham from early in the evening till -near bed-time, putting it into warm water, and changing that water about -ten or eleven o'clock--wash and brush it well in the morning, and trim -it so as to look nicely all over. Lay at the bottom of the ham-boiler a -bed of nice fresh hay, which will greatly improve the flavor. Let the -hock bone be sawed off short. A long shank bone looks very awkward. -Place the ham upon the hay--pour in plenty of cold water, and keep it -simmering very slowly an hour before you allow it to boil. Then increase -the heat gradually, and keep the ham boiling steadily for four, five, or -six hours, according to its size and age. An old ham requires more -soaking and boiling than a new one. Skim it frequently after the boiling -begins. It will be much improved by transferring it to a spit, (having -taken off the whole skin,) and roasting the ham, for the last two or -three hours, basting it with its own essence. Save the skin to cover the -cold ham, and keep it fresh. Before it goes to table cover the ham with -grated bread-crumbs, sifted on so as to form a slight crust. - -If the ham is to be eaten cold, and is intended for company, brush it -all over with beaten yolk of egg. Then dredge on sufficient grated -crumbs to form a crust half an inch thick, and finish by going all over -it with cream. Set it to brown in an oven, or put it on the spit of a -roaster. When cold, this glazing will be found surpassingly fine. -Decorate the hock with white paper, handsomely cut, or with a bunch of -flowers cut out of vegetables. - -Carve a ham in very thin slices--if cut thick, they have not the same -taste, besides looking ungenteelly. - - -BAKED HAM.--For baking, take a small ham, or part of a large one, -trimmed and made of good shape, cutting away whatever looks unsightly. -Have the bone sawed off at the knuckle, or end of the hock. The evening -previous to cooking, lay the ham in soak in a large pan of hot water. At -bed-time pour off the water, and renew it. Keep it closely covered all -night. In the morning wash and brush it well. Make a coarse paste of -coarse flour mixed with water only, and roll it out about an inch thick. -Line a clean iron bake-oven with this, and put in the ham, reserving -enough of paste to cover the top. Pour in a very little water, merely -sufficient to keep the ham from burning. Put on the lid of paste, and -having wet the edges slightly press them together, so as to unite -closely the top and bottom crust. Bake it over a steady fire, from four -to five or six hours, or more, according to its size. When done, skim -the gravy, remove the paste, (which is of no farther use,) and take off -the skin of the ham. Dredge it all over with finely grated bread-crumbs, -before it goes to table. A ham can scarcely be cooked too much, and too -slow. The general fault is in cooking them too little, and too fast. A -ham of the smallest size will require at least four hours baking or -boiling, even after it has been all night in soak. Save the skin whole, -to cover the cold ham when it is put away in the pantry. - -When a cooked ham is nearly all used up, take what remains, cut it all -off from the bone, and stew the bits in a little water, till they are -all to rags. You will find the essence an improvement to gravies, -strained from the fragments. - - -MADEIRA HAM.--This is a dish only seen at dinner parties. No one can -believe, for a moment, that hams really cooked in Madeira wine are -served up every week at hotels, particularly at those houses where there -is no other superfluity, and where most of the great dishes exist only -in the bill of fare. A genuine Madeira ham is cooked as follows:--Take a -ham of the very finest sort; should be a Westphalia one. Lay it in hot -water, and soak it all day and all night, changing the water several -times, and every time washing out the pan. Early in the morning of the -second day, put the ham into a large pot of cold water, and boil it -slowly during four hours, skimming it well. Then take it out, remove the -skin entirely, and put the ham into a clean boiler, with sufficient -Madeira wine to cover it well. Boil, or rather stew it, an hour longer, -keeping the pot covered except when you remove the lid to turn the ham. -When well stewed take it up, drain it, and strain the liquor into a -porcelain-lined saucepan. Have ready a sufficiency of powdered white -sugar. Cover the ham all over with a thick coating of the sugar, and set -it into a hot oven to bake for an hour. - -Mix some orange or lemon-juice with the liquor adding plenty of sugar -and nutmeg. Give it one boil up over the fire, and serve it up in a -tureen, as sauce to the ham. - -What is left of the ham may be cut next day into small pieces, put into -a stew-pan, with the remains of the liquor or sauce poured over it, and -stewed for a quarter of an hour or more. Serve it up all together in the -same dish. While it is on the fire, add a little butter to the stew. - - -BROILED HAM.--Ham for broiling or frying should be cut into thin slices -the evening before, trimmed, and laid in a pan of boiling water, which, -near bed-time, should be changed for cold water, and very early in the -morning for boiling water, in which it should lie half an hour to soak -still longer. If ham is not well soaked previously, it will, when -broiled or fried, be disagreeably hard and salt; the salt frying out to -the surface and forming a rough unpleasant crust, which will create -thirst in the eaters for hours after. Much of the salt of a ham goes off -in boiling, but if it is _not_ boiled or soaked, the salt comes out to -the surface and there it sticks. The slices being cut thin and nicely -trimmed, they should be broiled on a very clean gridiron over a clear -fire, and so well done that they incline to curl up at the edges. Dish -them hot, and lay on every slice a very small bit of fresh butter, and -sprinkle them with pepper. - - -FRIED HAM.--Ham for frying need not be _quite_ so thin as for broiling. -Put but little butter in the frying-pan, as their own fat is generally -sufficient to cook them. Break an egg over the middle of each slice, and -let it cook till the white is set, and the yolk appears round and yellow -through it. Before it goes to table trim off nicely the discolored and -ragged edges of the fried eggs. They look disgusting when left on. - -Cold ham is excellent for broiling or frying, and very nice without any -further cooking. Send it to table strewed with either nasturtion -flowers, pepper-grass, or parsley. All these things have a fine flavor -of their own, especially nasturtions. - - -NICE FRIED HAM.--Having scalded and soaked some nice ham, cut it into -rather thick slices, and then cut these slices into mouthfuls or little -narrow slips. Put them into a hot frying-pan, and fry them well. When -done, season them with pepper and nutmeg, and serve them up in their own -gravy. It will be an improvement to add a beaten egg just before they go -to table. - -You may add to the ham some bits of cold boiled chicken, pulled in -little slips, from the breast, and fried with the ham, adding a little -fresh butter. - - -SLICED HAM.--Slice very thin some cold boiled ham, and let the slices be -nearly of the same size and appearance, making them look as handsome as -you can. Cover them with fresh green pepper-grass at a summer breakfast -or tea-table; and decorate the pepper-grass by interspersing with it -some nasturtion flowers, which are very nice to eat, having a taste -agreeably and slightly pungent. Pepper-grass and nasturtions, are very -appetizing accompaniments to nice bread and butter. - - -DISGUISED HAM.--Scrape or grate a pound of cold boiled ham, twice as -much lean as fat. Season it slightly with pepper and a little powdered -mace or nutmeg. Beat the yolks only, of three eggs, and mix with them -the ham. Spread the mixture thickly over slices of very nice toast, with -the crust pared off, and the toast buttered while hot. Brush it slightly -on the surface with white of egg, and then brown it with a red hot -shovel or salamander. This is a nice breakfast dish. - - -HAM CAKE.--This should be made the day before it is wanted. Take the -remains of a cold ham. Cut it into small bits, and pound it well (fat -and lean together) in a marble mortar, adding some butter and grated -nutmeg; or a little cream, sufficient to moisten it throughout. Fill a -mould with the mixture, and set it for half an hour into a moderate -oven. When ready for use, set the mould for a few minutes into hot -water, and then turn out the ham cake on a dish. Cover the surface all -over with a coating of beaten white of egg. And before it is quite dry, -decorate it with capers, or pickled nasturtion seeds, arranged in a -pattern. - -Send small bread rolls to the supper table with the ham cake. - - -HAM OMELET.--Mince very fine some cold boiled ham, (twice as much lean -as fat,) till you have a half pint. Break six eggs, and strain them into -a shallow pan. Beat them till very light and thick, and then stir in -gradually the minced ham. Have ready, in a hot omelet pan, three -table-spoonfuls of lard. When the lard boils, put in the omelet mixture -and fry it. Occasionally slip a knife under the edge to keep it loose -from the pan. It should be near an inch thick, as a ham omelet is best -not to fold over. Make it a good even shape; and when one side is done, -turn the other and brown it. You can turn it easily with a knife and -fork, holding carefully, close to the omelet, the hot dish on which it -is to go to table. Dredge the surface with a little cayenne. - -Omelets may be made in this manner, of smoked tongue, or oysters -chopped, cold sweetbread, asparagus minced, boiled onions, mushrooms, -&c. A good allowance for a small omelet is the above proportion of eggs -and lard, or fresh butter; and a large tea-cup of the seasoning article, -which must always have been previously cooked. - -They are much lighter when served up of their full size, and not folded -over in halfs. A large omelet must have from eight to ten, or a dozen -eggs. It is best to bake all omelets of the six egg size, and have more -in number if required. - - -HAM TOAST.--Make some very nice slices of toast, with all the crust -trimmed off; and dip each toast for an instant into a bowl of hot water, -then butter it slightly. Have ready some grated cold ham, and spread it -thick over each slice of toast. Tongue toast is made in the same manner. - - -SANDWICHES.--Spread some thin slices of bread very thinly with nice -fresh butter, and lay a thin slice of cold ham (the edges neatly -trimmed) between every two slices of bread and butter. You may make them -so thin, as to roll up--a number being piled on a plate. - - -BISCUIT SANDWICHES.--This is a very nice and very pretty dish for a -supper table. Have ready one or two dozen of fresh soft milk biscuit. -Split them, and take a very little of the soft crumb out of each -biscuit, so as to make a slight hollow. Butter the biscuits with very -nice fresh butter, and fill them liberally with grated ham or tongue. -Stick round the inside of the edges, full sprigs of pepper-grass, or -curled parsley, or the green tops of celery. Arrange the sprigs closely -and handsomely, so as to project out all round the sides, forming a -green border or fringe. We highly recommend biscuit sandwiches. - - -POTTED HAM.--Take some cold ham, slice it, and mince it small, fat and -lean together. Then pound it in a mortar; seasoning it as you proceed -with cayenne pepper, powdered mace, and powdered nutmeg. Then fill with -it a large deep pan, and set it in an oven for half an hour. Afterwards -pack it down hard in a stone jar, and fill up the jar with lard. Cover -it closely, and paste down a thick paper over the jar. If sufficiently -seasoned, it will keep well in winter; and is convenient for sandwiches, -or on the tea-table. A jar of this will be found useful to travelers in -remote places. - -Tongue may be potted as above. - - -TO PREPARE BACON.--All pieces of pork that, after pickling, are dried -and smoked, come under the denomination of bacon; except the -hind-quarters or legs, and they are always called ham, and are justly -considered superior to any other part of the animal, and bring a higher -price. The shoulders or fore-quarters, the sides or flitches, the jowl -or head, and all the other parts, are designated as bacon; and in some -places they erroneously give that name to the whole animal, if cured, or -preserved by the process of smoking. - -To prepare bacon for being cooked, examine it well, and scrape it -carefully, and trim off all unsightly parts. If the fat is yellow, the -meat is rusty or tainted, and not fit to eat. So, also, if on the lean -there are brownish or blackish spots. All sorts of food, if kept too -long, should be thrown away at once. - -If perfectly good, prepare the bacon for cooking, by washing it well, -and then soaking it for several hours in a pan full of cold water, -removing the water once or twice during the process. If the bacon is -salt and hard, soak it all night, changing the water at bed-time, and -early in the morning. - -Ham should also be soaked before cooking. - -A dish of broiled ham is a nice accompaniment to one of calves' -chitterlings, at breakfast. - - -TO BOIL BACON.--Put two or three pounds of nice bacon into a pot with -plenty of cold water, and let it simmer slowly for an hour before it -begins to boil. Skim it well, and when no more scum rises, put in the -vegetables which are usually eaten with bacon, and which taste better -for boiling with the meat. These are young greens, or sprouts, very -young roots and leaves of the poke plant, and green beans--strung and -cut in half--not smaller. On no account should any other vegetables be -boiled with bacon. When the bacon is so tender as to be easily pierced -through with a fork, even in the thickest places, take it up and drain -it well in a cullender or sieve. Remove the skin. Then take up the -vegetables and drain them also, pressing out _all_ the liquid. Season -them with pepper only. Send the meat to table with the vegetables heaped -round it, on the same large dish, (the cabbage being chopped, but not -minced fine.) Potatos, squashes, peas, asparagus, &c., should never be -boiled in the same pot, or served up in the same dish with bacon, which -is too plain a dish for any but a country table; while a ham is a -delicacy for the city, or for any place. - - -BACON AND BEANS.--Scrape and trim a nice piece of bacon, (not too fat,) -and see that no part of it looks yellow or rusty, or shows any -appearance of being too old. If so, do not cook it, as it is -unwholesome, unpalatable, and unfit to eat. A shoulder is a good piece -to boil. The best of the animal, when smoked, is, of course, the ham or -leg. We are now speaking of the other pieces that, when cured, are -properly called bacon, and are eaten at plain tables only. - -The meat, if very salt, is the better for being put in soak early in the -morning, or the night before. Afterwards put it into a pot, and boil and -skim it till tender. Have ready a quart or two of fresh green string -beans, cut into three pieces, (not more); put them into the pot in which -the bacon is boiling, and let them cook with the meat for an hour or -more. When done, take them out, drain them well; season them well with -pepper, and send them to table on a separate dish from the bacon. - -Many persons like so well this bacon flavor, that they _always_, when -boiling string-beans, put a small piece of bacon in the pot, removing it -before the beans are sent to table. - -With bacon and beans, serve up whole potatos boiled and peeled--and in -the country, where cream is plenty, they boil some with butter, and pour -it over the potatos, touching each one with pepper. - - -BROILED HAM OR BACON.--Wash and trim a nice piece of bacon; soak it all -night, or for several hours, in cold water. In the morning scald it with -boiling water. Let it lie till cool, then throw away the water, and -scald it again. Cut it into thin slices, very smooth and even; the rind -being previously pared off. Curl up the slices, rolling them round, and -securing them with wooden skewers. Broil them on a gridiron, or bake -them in a Dutch oven. If cut properly thin, they will cook in a quarter -of an hour. They must not be allowed to burn or blacken. Before you send -them to table, take out the skewers. They may be cooked in flat slices, -without curling, but they must be cut always very thin. Slice some -hard-boiled eggs, and lay them on the meat. Season with black pepper. - -_Cold_ boiled ham cooked as above, will require no soaking, and can be -speedily prepared for a breakfast dish. Lay sprigs of parsley on the -ham. - -Serve up with them mashed potatos made into balls, or thick flat cakes, -and browned on the surface with a red-hot shovel. - - -STEWED HAM.--Cut some thin slices of cold boiled ham. Season them -slightly with pepper. No salt. Lay them in a stew pan with plenty of -green peas or lima beans, or else cauliflowers, or young summer cabbage, -quartered, and the thick stalk omitted. Add a piece of fresh butter, or -_a very little lard_. Put in just water enough to keep the things from -burning. When the vegetables are quite done, add a beaten egg or two, -and in five minutes, take up the stew and send it to table. - - -STEWED BACON.--Take a small piece of bacon, not too fat or salt. It had -best be soaked in cold water the night before. Put it into a pot, with a -large portion of string beans, each cut into three pieces, (not more,) -or else some cabbage, or young cabbage sprouts. Early in the spring, the -young stalks of the pokeberry plant will be found excellent with stewed -bacon. Stew the bacon and vegetables in just water enough to cover them -all; skimming frequently. Drain all, through a cullender, when done. -Have a dish of boiled potatos also. A molasses indian pudding is a good -conclusion to this homely dinner. - - -PREPARED LARD.--As soon as it is cut off from the newly killed pork, put -the fat into a crock, or deep earthen pot. Cover the crock with its own -lid, and let it stand all night in a cool place. Next day, cut it into -small bits, (carefully removing all the fleshy particles of lean); and -then put the fat into a _very clean_ pot, without either water or salt. -The pot should not be more than half full of pork-fat. Let it boil -_slowly_, (stirring it frequently from the bottom, lest it burn,) till -it becomes quite clear and transparent. Then ladle it into clean pans. -When almost cold, put it into stoneware jars, which must be closely -covered, and kept in a cool place. If it is to go to a distance, tie it -up in new bladders. - -There are two sorts of pork-fat for lard. The leaf-fat, which is best; -and the fat that adheres to the entrails. These two fats should be -boiled separately. - -The large entrails, whose skins are to be used for sausages, must be -cleaned out carefully, well scraped, and thrown into strong salt and -water for two days, (changing the brine the second day,) and afterwards -into strong lye for twenty-four hours. Lastly, wash them in fresh water. -We think it much better to dispense with the skins altogether; keeping -your sausage meat in jars, and frying it in cakes when wanted for use. -Its own fat (as it exudes) will cook it. - -Never use bad butter when you can obtain good lard, for frying, and -other purposes. - - - - -VENISON. - - -You may judge of the age of venison by looking at the hoof, which is -always left on the leg. The deer is young if the cleft of the hoof is -small and smooth; but large and rough, if he is old. Buck venison is -considered better than the meat of the doe. The haunch, or hind-quarter, -is the best part, and the fat upon it should, be thick and white. The -shoulder, or fore-quarter, is the next best piece. The saddle comprises -both hind-quarters; and these, for a large company, are always cooked -together. - -To eat venison in perfection, it should be killed when the deer can find -plenty of fresh food in the forest, and when they have fattened on the -abundance of wild berries, which they can obtain during the autumn. In -winter, they are brought into the cities, lean, hard, dry, and black, -and the meat infested all through with small threadlike white worms; -showing that decomposition has commenced, and requiring the disguise of -spices, wine, currant jelly, &c., to render it _eatable_, not -_wholesome_, for every sort of food in the slightest degree tainted is -utterly injurious to health, and cannot often be eaten with impunity. - -It never was very fashionable, in America, to eat spoiled victuals, and -it is now less so than ever. Fortunately, in our land of abundance, "we -do not see the necessity". - - -HAUNCH OF VENISON.--To prepare a haunch of venison for roasting (we will -suppose it to be _perfectly_ good and well kept,) wipe it thoroughly all -over with clean cloths, dipped in lukewarm water, and then go over it -with clean dry cloths. Trim off all unsightly parts. Lay over the fat a -large sheet of thick brown paper, well buttered, and securely tied on -with twine. Or else make a coarse paste of brown meal, and cover it with -that. Place it before a good steady fire, and let it roast from three to -four hours, according to its size. After roasting well for three hours, -remove the covering of paper or paste, and baste the meat well all over; -first with dripping or butter, and then with its own gravy, dredging it -very slightly with browned flour. Skim the fat off the gravy, and send -the venison to table plain, with sweet sauce of black currant jelly, or -raspberry jam, in a glass dish with a spoon in it. - - -VENISON STEAKS, BROILED.--Cut the steaks not quite an inch thick. Trim -them nicely, and season them with a little black pepper and salt. Have -ready, over a bed of clear bright hot coals from a wood fire, a gridiron -with grooved bars to catch the gravy. Put down the steaks, and when one -side is quite done turn the other, and broil that. Venison should always -be very thoroughly done. Before you take up the steaks, lay a bit of -nice fresh butter upon each. Take them up on a hot dish, and keep them -warm. Pour off the gravy into a small saucepan. Give it a boil over the -fire, and skim off all the fat from the surface. Stir into it some nice -wine, and serve up with the steaks a deep dish of cranberry, or peach -sauce, or a large cup of grape jelly. - - -STEWED VENISON STEAKS.--Take some fine steaks of _freshly killed_ -venison. Cut them from the upper part of the leg. Make a forcemeat, or -stuffing, with bread soaked in milk, mixed with fresh butter, with -chopped sweet marjoram and sweet basil; or some boiled onions, minced -small, and mixed with chopped sage, which may be boiled _with_ the -onion, and seasoned with a very little salt and pepper. Spread the -stuffing thickly over the inside of the steaks. Then roll them up, and -tie them round with packthread, or secure them at the ends with wooden -skewers. Put the steaks into a stewpan with some fresh butter or lard, -or some drippings that have been left of roast venison--the day before. -Let them stew (keeping the pan covered) till thoroughly done. Then dish -them with the gravy round them. Serve up with them a sauce of stewed -cranberries, or stewed dried peaches. - -You may stew lamb or mutton cutlets in the same manner, but do not use -mutton dripping. Water (a very small quantity) is best for them. Veal -cutlets may be stewed exactly like venison. - - -HASHED VENISON.--Take the remains of cold roast venison, from which -sufficient gravy or dripping has been saved to cook the meat again, -without any water at all. It would be well if this were done in all -hashes made from cold meat. For want of drippings, use butter or lard. -Cold meat stewed in water is weak and unpalatable. - -Two or three large spoonfuls of mushroom, or tomato catchup, are -improvements to all hashes. If nothing better can be obtained use -onions, always previously boiled to render them less strong. - -Minced sweet herbs are excellent seasoning for hashes. Also minced -tarragon leaves; they give a peculiar flavor that is very generally -liked. Fresh tarragon is in season in July, August, and September. - -French mustard (to be obtained at all the best grocery stores) is a -great improvement to hashes and stews. Stir in at the last, one or two -large table-spoonfuls. The chief ingredient of French mustard is -tarragon. - - -A FINE VENISON PIE.--Cut steaks from a loin or haunch of venison, which -should be as freshly killed as you can get it. The strange and absurd -prejudice in favor of hard black-looking venison, (that has been kept -till the juices are all dried up,) is fast subsiding; and no one now -eats any sort of food in which decomposition has commenced. Those who -have eaten venison fresh from the forest, when the deer have fattened -on wild grapes, huckleberries, blackberries, cranberries, &c., will -never again be able to relish such as is brought in wagon loads to the -Atlantic cities, and which has been kept till full of those fine threads -that are in reality long thin whitish worms, and which are often seen in -very old hams. - -Having removed the bones and cut the meat into steaks, and seasoned it -with salt and pepper, put the venison into a pot, with merely as much -water as will cover it well. Let it stew till perfectly tender, skimming -it occasionally. Then take it out, and set it to cool, saving the gravy -in a bowl. Make a nice puff paste; divide the paste into two equal -portions, and roll it out rather thick. Butter a deep dish, and line it -with one of the sheets of paste, rolled thin at the bottom. Then put in -the stewed venison. Season the gravy with a glass of _very good_ wine, -(either port or sherry,) a few blades of mace, and a powdered nutmeg. -Stir into it the crumbled yolks of some hard-boiled eggs. Pour the gravy -over the meat, and put on the other sheet of paste, as the lid of the -pie. Bring the two edges close together, so as to unite evenly, and -notch them handsomely. Set it immediately into the oven, and bake it -well. If a steady heat is kept up, it will be done in an hour. Send it -to table hot. - -Instead of wine, you may put into the gravy half a pint of _black_ -currant jelly, which, for venison, is thought preferable to red. Either -will do. - -Any sort of game, partridges, pheasants, grouse, wild ducks, &c., may -be made into a fine pie, exactly as above. - - -VERY PLAIN VENISON PIE.--Cut from the bone some good pieces of fine -_fresh_ venison, season them slightly with salt and pepper, and put them -into a pot with plenty of potatos, (either sweet or white,) split and -quartered, and only as much water as will cover the whole. Set it over -the fire, cover it, and let it stew slowly and steadily, till all is -tender, skimming it several times. Meanwhile, make a nice paste of flour -shortened with cold gravy, or drippings saved from roast venison, or of -nice lard. Allow half a pint of shortening to each quart of flour. Put -the flour into a pan, and rub the shortening into it as quickly as -possible, adding a _very little_ cold water, to make it into a lump of -paste. Then roll it out into a sheet, and spread over it with a broad -knife the remaining half of the shortening. Dredge lightly with flour, -fold it up, and roll it out in two sheets. With one of them line your -pie-dish, and put into it the stewed venison and potatos. Pour in the -gravy of the stew. The filling of this pie should be piled high in the -centre. Lay on, as a lid, the other sheet of paste, which should be -rather the largest. Pare off smoothly the edges of the two crusts, and -crimp them nicely. Set the pie in the oven, and bake it well. It may be -eaten either hot or cold, but is best hot. - -The above quantity of paste is only sufficient for a very small pie. -For one of moderate size allow two quarts of flour, and a pound of -shortening. - - -VENISON POT-PIE.--Remove the bone from some fine venison steaks, cut -near an inch thick. Season them lightly with pepper and salt, and score -them each in several places. Stew them in a very little water till -tender. Have ready an ample portion of nice suet paste. If you cannot -obtain beef suet use cold venison fat, minced fine and made into a paste -with double its quantity in flour, and as little water as possible. Lay -some stewed venison at the bottom of the pot, and line the sides with -paste almost up to the top. Put in the meat, adding among it boiled -sweet potatos cut into pieces, or (if they are to be had in plenty,) -chestnuts, boiled and peeled. Mushrooms will be a great improvement. -Onion also, (if liked,) boiled and cut up. Intersperse the whole with -square pieces of paste. Fill the pot almost to the top with the meat and -other ingredients. Lay a thick paste over the whole, cut round to fit, -but not too closely. Pour in a pint of warm water to increase the gravy. -Make a cross slit in the middle of the upper crust. Cook the pie till -all is well done. Serve it up with the brown crust in pieces, and laid -on the top. - -This pie, if well made, and with plenty of paste, will be thought -excellent whenever fresh venison is to be had. - - -VENISON HAM.--Take fine freshly-killed venison. Mix together an ounce of -saltpetre, a pound of coarse brown sugar, and a pound of salt. Let them -be very thoroughly mixed and pounded. Rub this well into the meat, and -continue rubbing hard till it froths. Keep the meat in the pickle for -two weeks, turning it every day. Then take it out, and roll it in -saw-dust, (which, on no account, must be the saw-dust of any species of -pine.) Hang it for two weeks longer in the smoke of oak wood or of corn -cobs. All hams, when being smoked, must be hung very high, and have the -large end downwards. If hung too low, the heat softens or melts the fat. - -Venison hams, if well cured, require no boiling. They are always eaten -chipped or shaved like smoked beef, to which they are very superior. It -may be stewed in a skillet with fresh butter and beaten egg, and cut -into thin shavings, or very thin small slices--or, instead of butter, -with the drippings of cold roast venison. Season with pepper only. - - -RABBITS.--Rabbits should be young and tender, but full-grown and fat. -Two are required to make a dish. One rabbit, except for an invalid, is -scarcely worth the trouble of cooking; and, being naturally insipid, it -must have certain seasoning to make it taste well. The hare, so much -prized in England, owes its reputation entirely to their mode of -dressing it, which is troublesome, expensive, and in our country would -never become popular, unless the animal had in itself more to recommend -it. With all that can be done for a hare, it is, when cooked, black, -dry, hard; and if it has been kept long enough to acquire what they call -the "true game flavor," so much the worse. A fine fat well-fed tame -rabbit is much better. In Virginia, the negroes frequently call a large -rabbit "a hare"--or rather "a yar;" and though they know it to be young, -they generally term it "that old yar." We opine that _with them_ "yars" -are not admired. If a rabbit is really old his ears are tough, and his -claws blunt and rough with coarse hairs growing between them. A young -rabbit has short sharp claws, and ears so tender that on trying you can -easily tear them. Rabbits should be cooked the day they are killed. -Always cut off the head. A rabbit dished whole, with its head on, is, to -most persons, a disgusting sight. The head of no small animal is worth -eating, and always looks disagreeable when cooked. - -The livers of rabbits should be added to the gravy. - - -ROASTED RABBITS.--Take a pair of fine well-fed young rabbits, and having -drawn or emptied them, lay them, for about ten minutes, in a pan of warm -water. Then dry them inside with a clean cloth, carefully wiping them -out. Truss them short, and neatly, having removed the heads. Line the -inside with very thin slices of fat bacon that has had most of the salt -soaked out. Make a plentiful stuffing or forcemeat of bread steeped in -milk, some fresh butter mixed with a very little flour; or, instead of -butter, some beef suet finely minced; some chopped sweet herbs; and some -crumbled yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Season with mace and nutmeg, and -grated lemon rind. Fill the rabbits well with this--or, you may stuff -them entirely with boiled potatos, mashed with plenty of nice butter, or -the drippings of roast veal or pork. Or (if liked) you may make the -stuffing entirely of minced onion, (previously boiled,) and minced sage -leaves, moistened with a very little lard or sweet oil, and seasoned -with powdered mace, nutmeg, and pepper. Having put in plenty of -stuffing, sew up the bodies of the rabbits, flour them well, and put -them on the spit and set them before a clear fire. Baste them with milk, -or with fresh butter, tied up in thin muslin. They will be done in an -hour or more. Thicken the gravy with flour, and pour it over them in the -dish. Roasted rabbits make a good second dish at a small dinner. Take -the livers of the rabbits, and chop them, to put into the gravy. - - -RABBITS WITH ONIONS.--Peel, boil, and slice six (or more) large onions, -and season them with nutmeg, and a very little cayenne. Cover them, and -set them aside till wanted. Cut two fine rabbits into pieces, and fry -them in fresh butter or lard. When browned, and nearly done, cover them -with the sliced onions, and brown _them_, having laid among them some -bits of fresh butter rolled in flour. Dish the rabbits, with the pieces -entirely hidden under the onions. - -A plainer, and not so good a way, is to put the pieces of rabbit, and -the sliced onions, into a stew-pan with a little water, and stew the -whole together. - - -RABBIT POT-PIE.--Cut up the rabbits, and stew them in a little water. -When nearly done, put the pieces into a pot and intersperse them with -bits of cold ham. Add the gravy left from the stew. Season with pepper -and mace. Have ready sufficient paste, (made with minced suet, and -rather more than twice its quantity of flour.) There must be enough of -paste to line the sides of the pot all round, nearly up to the top, and -enough to make a thick lid, besides having plenty of extra pieces to lay -among the other contents. Also have ready a few onions boiled and -sliced. Cover the pie with the lid of paste, not fitting very closely. -Make a cross slit in the top, and pour in a little water. When done, -serve all up on one large dish. - -This pie will be much improved by stewing with the rabbits a fresh beef -steak. A beef steak in any pot-pie thickens and enriches the gravy. - - -PULLED RABBITS.--Boil, very tender, a fine pair of nice young rabbits. -When cold, cut them in pieces as for carving, and peel off the skin. -Then with a fork pull all the meat from the bones, first loosening it -with a knife. Put it into a stew-pan with plenty of cream, or some bits -of fresh butter rolled in flour; some minced sweet herbs, some grated -fresh lemon rind, and some hard-boiled yolks of eggs crumbled. Season -with cayenne and nutmeg. Cover it, and let it simmer till it comes to a -boil. Then immediately take it off the fire, and transfer it to a deep -dish. Serve it up hot. This is a side dish at dinner. - - -FRICASSEED RABBITS.--Cut up the rabbits as for carving, and go over -every piece with lard or sweet oil. Lay them in a frying pan, and fry -them in nice fresh butter. If you cannot procure this, use lard. Season -them with a very little salt and cayenne, dredge them well with flour, -and sprinkle them thickly with parsley, or sweet marjoram. When they are -fried brown, take them up. Keep them warm in a heated dish with a cover. -Skim the gravy that remains in the pan, and add to it some cream, or -rich milk thickened with flour, enriched with the beaten yolk of an egg, -and flavored with nutmeg. - -Rabbits may be cut up, and fried in batter made of bread-crumbs and -beaten egg. Dip every piece of rabbit twice into the batter. - - -A COATED HARE, OR LARGE RABBIT.--The hare, or rabbit, should be large -and fat. Save the liver and heart to assist in the gravy, which ought to -be made of some pieces of the lean of good fresh beef, seasoned with -pepper, salt, and nutmeg, stewed in a small sauce-pan, till all the -essence is extracted, adding the chopped liver and heart, and a bit of -fresh butter, rolled in flour. Cold fresh meat, or meat that has to be -recooked, is unfit for gravy, and so it is for soup. Line the inside of -the hare with small thin slices of fat ham, or bacon, and then fill the -cavity with a stuffing made of grated bread-crumbs, the grated yellow -rind and juice of a lemon, or orange, a piece of fresh butter, some -minced sweet marjoram, and the crumbled yolk of one or two hard-boiled -eggs. Season the stuffing with a little pepper and salt, and some -powdered nutmeg and mace. Fill the body of the hare with this mixture, -and sew it up, to keep in the stuffing. Spit the hare, and roast it -well, keeping it for a while at a moderate distance from the fire. To -baste it, while roasting, make a dressing of the beaten yolks of four -eggs, four spoonfuls of flour, a pint of milk, and three table-spoonfuls -of salad oil, all well-beaten together. Baste the hare with this till it -is thickly coated all over with the batter, taking care it does not -burn. Send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat, accompanied by currant, -or cranberry jelly. - -A very young fawn, or a kid, may be drest in a similar manner. Kids are -not eaten after three months old. Till that age their meat is white and -delicate. Their flesh, _after_ that time, gradually becomes coarse and -dark-colored. A very young kid, before it is weaned, is very delicious; -but no longer. In the oriental countries, young kids are stuffed with -chopped raisins and almonds, or pistachio nuts, previous to roasting; -and basted with rich milk, or cream. - -For sauce to a kid or fawn, use orange marmalade, or grape jelly. - - - - -POULTRY AND GAME. - - -Spring chickens bring a high price, and are considered delicacies, but -they are so insipid, and have so little on them, that we think the -purchase of them, when very young, a mere fashionable extravagance, and -a waste of money that might be better employed in something that had -really a fine flavor, and that when divided was more than a morsel for -each person. We wonder that any but invalids should care for spring -chickens. It is better to wait till the young chickens grow into nice -plump fowls, that were well fed, and have lived long enough to show it. -A fine full-grown young fowl, has a clear white skin, that tears easily -when tried with a pin. It has a broad fleshy breast, the legs are -smooth, and the toes easily broken when bent back. Fowls with whitish -legs are considered the best for boiling; those with dark legs the best -for roasting. The finest of all fowls are capons. They grow very large -and fat, and yet are as tender as young chickens, have a fine delicate -rich flavor of their own, and are well worth their cost. The great Bucks -county fowls are profitable because they are large; but they are never -very plenty in market, being difficult to raise. The best poultry feels -heavy in proportion to its size. Hen turkeys are best for boiling. - -Ducks and geese (particularly the latter) are so tough when old, that it -is often impossible to eat them; therefore buy none that are not young. -Geese are generally kept alive too long, for the sake of their feathers, -which they always shed in August, and for which there is always a -demand. And geese are not expensive to keep, as in summer they feed on -grass, and will graze in a field like sheep. The feet and legs of an old -goose are red and hard. So is her bill. The skin is rough, coarse, and -tough, and full of hairs. Let nothing induce you to buy an old goose. -You would find it too tough to carve, and too tough to eat. And no -cooking can make her tender. - -Poultry should be drawn, or emptied (taking care not to break the gall) -as soon almost as killed. Then let it be well washed, inside and out, -and wiped dry. In picking it, carefully remove every plug or vestige of -feathers, and singe off the hairs, by holding the bird to the fire, with -a lighted piece of writing paper. Brown paper will give it something of -an unpleasant taste. Newspaper is worse, on account of the printing-ink. - -If poultry is brought from market frozen, you need not hasten to thaw -it, before it is actually wanted for use. Till then, put it in a cold -place, and let it remain frozen. It will keep the better. When you thaw -it, by all means use only _cold_ water. Any frozen poultry, or meat, -thawed in warm water, will most certainly spoil. Let it be remembered -that any food which has been frozen requires a much longer time to cook. - - -BOILED TURKEY.--For boiling, choose a fine fat hen turkey. In drawing -it, be careful not to break the gall, or a bitter taste will be -communicated to the whole bird. In picking, remove every plug and hair, -and then singe it with _writing-paper_. Wash it very clean, and then -wipe it dry, inside and out. In trussing, draw the legs into the body, -having cut them off at the first joint. Let the turkey look as round and -plump as possible. Fill the breast with a very nice forcemeat, or -stuffing, made of a quarter of a pound of grated bread-crumbs, mixed -with two large table-spoonfuls or two ounces of fresh butter, or finely -minced suet, seasoned with a little pepper and salt, a heaped -tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and mace mixed together, a -table-spoonful of sweet herbs[C] (sweet basil and sweet marjoram) -chopped small if green, and powdered if dry; and the crumbled yolks of -two hard-boiled eggs. Add the grated yellow rind, and the juice of a -fresh lemon, and mix the whole very well. Skewer the liver and gizzard -under the pinions, having first cut open the gizzard and cleared it of -sand or gravel. - - [C] The herbs summer savory and thyme (like the spices cloves and - allspice) are now seldom used in good cookery. - -It is no longer customary to mix stuffing or forcemeat with beaten raw -egg for the purpose of binding the ingredients together. Leave them -loose, without this binding, and the forcemeat will be much lighter, -better flavored, and more abundant. It will not fall out if a -packthread, or very _small_ twine is wound carefully round the body, (to -be removed before serving up,) and it may be secured by sewing it with a -needle and thread. - -Put the turkey into a large pot with plenty of cold water, and boil it -gently, for two hours or more, in proportion to its size; carefully -removing all the scum as it rises. It will be whiter if boiled in a -large clean cloth, or in a coarse paste, (the paste to be thrown away -afterwards,) and take care that it is thoroughly done. Serve up boiled -turkey with oyster sauce, celery sauce, or cauliflower sauce. Sweet -sauce is rarely eaten with boiled things--unless with puddings. - -Boiled turkey should be accompanied by a ham or tongue. - -To ascertain if boiled poultry is done, try the thickest parts with a -large needle. If the needle goes through, and in and out easily, it is -sufficient. - -A turkey (boiled or roast) for a family dish, may be stuffed with nice -sausage meat, in which case it requires no other stuffing. Surround it -on a dish with fried sausage cakes, about the size of a dollar, but -near an inch thick. - -It is very convenient to keep always in the house, during the winter -months, one or two large jars of nice home-made sausage-meat, well -covered. The best time for making sausage-meat is in November. After -March, sausages are seldom eaten. - - -OYSTER TURKEY.--(_French dish._)--Prepare a fine young hen turkey, for -boiling; skewering the liver and gizzard under the pinions. Fill the -body well with fine large fresh oysters, having removed their hard part -or gristle. Add to the oysters a tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and -mace, and a tea-spoonful of celery seed or minced celery, and a piece of -fresh butter dredged with flour. With this, stuff the turkey very full; -securing the stuffing with packthread. Put the turkey into a large -block-tin kettle, and let it stew in the oyster liquor only, without any -water. Strain the oyster liquor before you put it in. Set the kettle -into an outer kettle full of boiling water. This will cook the turkey -very nicely. For such purposes, nothing is so convenient as the utensil -called in French a _bain marie_, (pronounced _bine maree_.) This is a -permanent double kettle with two covers, and a large tube or spout -outside, for pouring in fresh hot water, without opening the lid and -letting out the steam. They are to be had of all sizes at the furnishing -stores in New York and Philadelphia, and are so excellent for stewing -without water, that no family should be without them. - -When the turkey is well boiled and quite done, keep it warm by wrapping -it closely in a cloth, putting a dish cover over it, and placing it near -the fire. A fine oyster gravy will be found in the kettle. Add to it -some fresh butter, dredged with flour, and some mace and nutmeg, and -some celery seed. Give it one boil up, and send it to table as sauce for -the turkey. This is a very nice way of cooking a small turkey. - -A pair of oyster chickens may be thus prepared, and stewed in the above -manner in a _bain marie_, or double kettle. - - -ROAST TURKEY.--Take a fine large turkey, full-grown and fat, draw and -singe him carefully, saving the giblets (neck, heart, gizzard, and -liver,) for the gravy. After he is drawn, wash the inside well, wipe it -dry, and sprinkle it with black pepper. Make a large quantity of -stuffing or forcemeat. It increases his apparent size, and besides is -generally liked. Mince small some cold boiled ham, in equal portions of -fat and lean: grated lemon rind, minced sweet herbs, fresh butter, or -finely minced suet. Add plenty of grated bread-crumbs or crumbled rusk; -also, hard-boiled yolk of egg crumbled. Moisten the mixture with lemon -juice and some good white wine. Stuff the turkey well with this -forcemeat, sewing it up, or winding a small cord round the body to -secure the filling. Roast it before a clear and substantial fire, -basting it well with fresh butter. When done, take it up and keep it -hot. - -Cut up the giblets and put them into a small sauce-pan, with a very -little water, and stew them while the turkey is roasting; adding a piece -of fresh butter dredged with flour. When done, remove the pieces of -neck, &c., retaining those of the heart, liver, and gizzard. Stir into -the gravy, after it comes from the fire, the yolk of a beaten egg. -Having skimmed the gravy in the dripping-pan, add it to the gravy that -has been made of the giblets, and send it to table in a sauce-boat. -Accompany the turkey with an oval dish, or tureen of cranberry sauce, -made very sweet. - -A roast turkey may be stuffed with oysters, or with chestnuts boiled, -peeled, and mashed with butter. If with chestnuts, thicken the gravy -with whole boiled chestnuts. If with oysters, send oyster-sauce to table -with the turkey. If chestnuts cannot be obtained, any roasted poultry is -good stuffed with well-boiled sweet potatos, mashed with plenty of -butter or meat drippings. - -The legs of turkeys are never helped to any one at table. They are -always sent away on the dish. - - -A BONED TURKEY.--For this purpose you must have a fine, large, tender -turkey; and after it is drawn, and washed, and wiped dry, lay it on a -clean table, and take a very sharp knife, with a narrow blade and point. -Begin at the neck; then go round to the shoulders and wings, and -carefully separate the flesh from the bone, scraping it down as you -proceed. Next loosen the flesh from the breast, and back, and body; and -then from the thighs. It requires care and patience to do it nicely, and -to avoid tearing or breaking the skin. The knife should always penetrate -quite to the bone; scraping loose the flesh rather than cutting it. When -all the flesh has been completely loosened, take the turkey by the neck, -give it a pull, and the whole skeleton will come out entirely from the -flesh, as easily as you draw your hand out of a glove. The flesh will -then fall down, a flat and shapeless mass. With a small needle and -thread, carefully sew up any holes that have accidentally been torn in -the skin. - -Have ready a large quantity of stuffing, made as follows:--Take three -sixpenny loaves of stale bread; grate the crumb; and put the crust in -water to soak. When quite soft, break them up small into the pan of -grated bread-crumbs, and mix in a pound of fresh butter, cut into little -pieces. Take two large bunches of sweet marjoram; the same of sweet -basil; and one bunch of parsley. Mince the parsley very fine, and rub to -a powder the leaves of the marjoram and basil. You should have two large -heaping table-spoonfuls of each. Chop, also, two very small onions or -shalots, and mix them with the herbs. Pound to powder a quarter of an -ounce of mace; and two large nutmegs. Mix the spices together, and add a -tea-spoonful of salt, and a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper. Then -mix the herbs, spices, &c., thoroughly into the bread-crumbs, and add, -by degrees, four hard-boiled eggs crumbled fine. - -Take up a handful of this filling; squeeze it hard, and proceed to stuff -the turkey with it--beginning at the wings; next do the body; and then -the thighs. Stuff it very hard; and, as you proceed, form the turkey -into its natural shape, by filling out, properly, the wings, breast, -body, &c. When all the stuffing is in, sew up the body and skewer the -turkey into the usual shape in which they are trussed; so that, if -skillfully done, it will look almost as if it had not been boned. Tie it -round with tape, and bake it three hours or more; basting it -occasionally with fresh butter. Make a gravy of the giblets, chopped, -and stewed slowly in a little water. When done, add to it the gravy that -is in the dish about the turkey, (having first skimmed off the fat,) and -enrich it with a glass of white wine, and two beaten yolks of eggs, -stirred in just before you take it from the fire. - -If the turkey is to be eaten cold at the supper-table, drop -table-spoonfuls of currant or cranberry jelly all over it at small -distances, and in the dish round it. - -A very handsome way of serving it up cold is, after making a sufficiency -of nice clear calves'-foot jelly, (seasoned, as usual, with wine, lemon, -cinnamon, &c.,) to lay the turkey in the dish in which it is to go to -table, and setting it under the jelly-bag, let the jelly drip upon it, -so as to form a transparent coating all over it; smoothing the jelly -evenly with the back of a spoon, as it congeals on the turkey. Apple -jelly may be substituted. - -Large fowls may be boned and stuffed in the above manner: also, a young -roasting pig. - - -ROAST GOOSE.--A goose for roasting should be young, tender, and fat; so -tender, that the skin can easily be torn by a pin; the bill and legs -smooth and of a light yellow color, and the toes breaking when bent -under. If the skin is thick and tough, and the bill and legs a dark -reddish yellow, rough and hairy, do not buy the goose. It is old, and no -cooking can make it eatable. A goose, from its profusion of feathers, -looks like a large bird when walking about; but when plucked and -prepared for the spit, it will be found very deceptive. It is much more -hollow than a turkey; and, except the breast, there is but little eating -on it. In large families it is usual to have a pair of roast geese, one -not being sufficient. Geese are not good except for roasting, or in a -pie. - -In preparing a goose for cooking, save the giblets for the gravy. After -the goose has been drawn, singed well, washed and wiped, inside and out; -trussed so as to look round and short; make a quantity of stuffing, (as -its hollow body will require a great deal.) For this purpose, parboil -two good sized onions, and a large bunch of green sage. Mince both the -sage and onions, seasoning them with a small salt-spoon of salt, half as -much black pepper, and still less cayenne. Add a hard-boiled egg finely -minced (yolk and white;) the chopped egg giving a nice smoothness to the -sage and onion. If your goose is large, take two chopped eggs. - -To make the stuffing very mild, (if preferred so,) add a handful of -finely grated bread-crumbs; or two or three fine juicy chopped apples. -Fill the body and craw with this stuffing, and secure it with a needle -and thread from falling out. Set the goose before a clear, steady -fire--having a little warm water in the dripping-pan to baste it till -the gravy begins to fall. Keep it well basted all the time it is -roasting. It must be thoroughly done all through. Roast it according to -its size, from an hour and a half to two hours or more. - -Boil the giblets in a sauce-pan by themselves, seasoned with a little -salt and pepper, and having among them a bit of butter dredged with -flour. When done, remove the neck, and retain the heart, liver, and -gizzard, cut into pieces, and served in the gravy, which should be well -skimmed. Also, skim carefully the fat off the gravy in the bottom of the -dripping-pan. Put the two gravies together, and serve them up in a gravy -tureen. To eat with the goose, have plenty of apple-sauce, made of fine -juicy apples, stewed very dry, well sweetened, and flavored with the -grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon; or with some rose-water and -nutmeg stirred in after the sauce is taken from the fire. Rose-water -evaporates in cooking, and should never boil or be kept on the fire. A -_bain marie_, or double kettle, is excellent for stewing fruit; putting -the fruit inside, and the water outside. - -For a family dinner a goose is very good stuffed with well-boiled -potatos, mashed smooth, with plenty of fresh butter or gravy. Sweet -potatos make an excellent stuffing. So do boiled chestnuts, mashed with -butter or gravy. - - -GOOSE PIE.--The old fashioned goose pie made with a standing crust, (the -flour being mixed with boiling water, and therefore unfit for eating,) -is now obsolete. They were generally sent as Christmas presents. Besides -the goose, they contained chickens, pigeons, (all boned,) and various -other things. They had standing sides like an oval wall, covered with a -lid of the same paste, having, on the top, a knob, by which to lift off. -These pies were expected to remain good a week; but generally the gravy -became sour in a few days, even in winter, and however carefully kept -from the air. The following is a receipt to make a fine goose pie for -immediate use, and with a nice eatable paste. - -Take a fine plump young goose, and parboil it, (in as little water as -will cover it,) saving the gravy. Having removed the skin, cut all the -flesh from the bones. Make a nice light short paste, allowing a large -half pound of fresh butter to each quart of flour. For a goose pie you -will require two quarts of flour and one pound of butter. Line a deep -pie-dish with one sheet of paste, reserving the other sheet for the lid, -which should be rolled out thick. Put in the pieces of goose, seasoned -with pepper only, interspersing among it the best part of a smoked -tongue, cut in thick round slices. Make a nice forcemeat into balls, -about the size of a hickory nut, and add them to the filling of the pie; -and some chestnuts boiled and peeled; or some round slices of boiled -sweet potato. Having made a gravy of the giblets stewed, pour that over -the other ingredients, filling the pie well, and heaping it high in the -middle. Add a few bits of fresh butter dredged in flour. Pour in the -gravy, and lay on the top the lid of the pie rolled out thick, -ornamenting the edges handsomely. Cut a cross slit in the top, and fit -into it a flower, or tulip cut out of paste. This pie is for dinner -company, and to be eaten warm. - -You may make a similar pie of a pair of fine ducks, either tame or wild. -Canvas-backs and red necks are excellent for this purpose. To eat with -it, have mashed potato, browned all over with a salamander. - -On the shores of our southern rivers, where canvas-backs and other fine -wild ducks are abundant, a pie affords an agreeable variety to the usual -modes of cooking them. - - -A GIBLET PIE.--Clean, very nicely, the giblets of two geese or four -ducks. Put them into a stew-pan, with a sliced onion; a bunch of -tarragon, or sweet marjoram and sage; half a dozen pepper-corns; and -four or five blades of mace. Add a very little water; cover the pan -closely, and let them stew till the giblets are tender. Then take them -out, and save all the gravy; having strained it from the seasoning -articles. Make a rich paste, and roll it out into two sheets. With one -sheet cover the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Put in the -giblets--mixing among them a few raw potatos sliced very thin, the -chopped yolks of some hard-boiled eggs, and some bits of butter rolled -in flour. Pour the gravy over the giblets, &c. Cover the pie with the -other sheet of paste, and notch the edges. Bake it brown, and send it to -table hot. - -A pigeon pie may be made in a similar manner: also, a rabbit pie. - - -ROAST DUCKS.--Take a pair of fine fat ducks, and having prepared them -nicely for the spit, put them, for a few minutes, into boiling water to -loosen the skin, which must be peeled entirely off, to have them very -nice and tender. Wash their insides by pouring water through them, and -wipe the outside all over with a dry cloth. Fill the body and craw of -one duck with a seasoning of sage and onion, as for a goose. In case -some of the company should have a dislike to onion, fill the other duck -with a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, &c., as for turkey. Place -them before a quick fire, but not so near as to scorch. Roast them well, -basting them all the time. Skim the fat off, and pour over the ducks -their own gravy, mixed with what has been made of the necks, livers, -hearts, and gizzards, stewed in a small sauce-pan with some butter -dredged with flour. Send to table with the ducks either cranberry or -apple sauce, made thick and sweet. - -Let them be thoroughly roasted, which will require from an hour to an -hour and a quarter. - - -WILD DUCKS.--To remove the fishy or sedgy taste so often found in wild -ducks, parboil them with a large carrot, cut in pieces, and placed in -the body of each. When the ducks are half boiled, take out the carrot -and throw it away. It will have imbibed all the unpleasant taste, and -taken it away from the ducks. Then cook them as you please. - - -BOILED DUCK.--Prepare for cooking a fine plump tame duck, and lay it -five or six minutes in warm water. Then put it into a clean large bowl -or deep dish, and pour over it a pint of rich boiling milk, in which has -been melted two table-spoonfuls of nice fresh butter. Let the duck soak -in the milk three hours, or till it has absorbed nearly all the liquid. -Next, dredge the duck well with flour. Boil it in cold water for half an -hour, till tender all through. Have ready a quantity of onion sauce made -with milk and butter, and flavored with powdered mace or nutmeg. Cover -the duck all over with the onion sauce, so as to smother it entirely. -Then send it to table hot. This is a French dish, (_canard bouilli_.) - - -DUCKS AND PEAS.--Stuff a fine plump pair of ducks with potato stuffing, -made of boiled potatos mashed very smooth with fresh butter; or, if for -company, make a fine forcemeat stuffing, as for a turkey. Bake the ducks -in an iron oven or bake-pan; and when nearly done, put in with them a -quart of very young green peas, and a few bits of fresh butter, -seasoning slightly with black pepper. When the peas and ducks are all -quite done, serve them all up on one large dish. - - -FRICASSEED DUCKS.--Half roast a pair of ducks. Then cut them apart, as -for carving. If they are _wild_ ducks, parboil them with a large carrot -(cut to pieces) inside of each, to draw out the fishy or sedgy taste. -Having thrown away the carrot, cut the ducks into pieces, as for -carving. Put them into a clean stew-pan, and season them with pepper and -salt. Mix in a deep dish a very small onion minced fine, a -table-spoonful of minced or powdered tarragon leaves, (for which you may -substitute sage and sweet marjoram, if you cannot procure tarragon,) and -two or three large tomatos, scalded, peeled, and quartered, or two large -table-spoonfuls of thick tomato catchup. Put in, also, two -table-spoonfuls of fresh butter rolled in grated bread-crumbs, and a -glass of port wine, claret, or brandy, with a small tea-spoonful of -powdered mace. Cover the pieces of duck with this mixture, and then add -barely as much water as will keep the whole from burning. Cover the pan -closely, and let the fricassee stew slowly for an hour, or till the -duck, &c., are thoroughly done. - -Venison or lamb cutlets may be fricasseed in this manner. Likewise, tame -fat pigeons, which must previously be split in two. This, also, is a -very nice way of dressing hares or rabbits. - - -TO ROAST CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--Having trussed the ducks, put into each a -thick piece of soft bread that has been soaked in port wine. Place them -before a quick fire and roast them from three quarters to an hour. -Before they go to table, squeeze over each the juice of a lemon or -orange, and serve them up very hot with their own gravy about them. Eat -them with currant jelly. Have ready also, a gravy made by stewing slowly -in a sauce-pan the giblets of the ducks in butter rolled in flour, and -as little water as possible. Serve up this additional gravy in a boat. - - -CANVAS-BACK DUCKS DRESSED PLAIN.--Truss the ducks without washing, but -wipe them inside and out with a clean dry cloth. Roast them before a -rather quick fire for half an hour. Then send them to table hot, upon a -large dish placed on a heater. There must also be heaters under each -plate, and currant jelly on both sides of the table, to mix with the -gravy, on your plate; claret or port wine also, for those who prefer it -as an improvement to the gravy. - - -TO STEW CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--Put the giblets into a sauce-pan with a very -little water, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a very little -salt and cayenne. Let them stew gently to make a gravy, keeping the -sauce-pan covered. In the mean time, half roast the ducks, saving the -gravy that falls from them. Then cut them up, put them into a large -stew-pan, with the gravy (having first skimmed off the fat,) and merely -water enough to keep them from burning. Set the pan over a moderate -fire, and let them stew gently till done. Towards the last, (having -removed the giblets) pour over the ducks the gravy from the small -sauce-pan, and stir in a large glass of port wine, and a glass of -currant jelly. Send them to table as hot as possible. - -Any ducks may be stewed as above. The common wild duck, teal, &c., -should always be parboiled with a large carrot in the body to extract -the fishy or sedgy taste. On tasting this carrot before it is thrown -away, it will be found to have imbibed strongly that disagreeable -flavor. - - -BROILED CANVAS-BACK DUCKS.--To eat these ducks with their flavor and -juices in perfection, they should be cooked immediately after killing. -If shot early in the morning, they will be found delicious, if broiled -for breakfast. If killed in the forenoon, let them be on that day's -dinner table. When they can be obtained quite fresh they want nothing to -improve the flavor. Neither do red-necks, or the other water fowl that -are found in such abundance on the shores of the Chesapeake. - -As soon as the ducks have been plucked, singed, drawn, and washed, split -them down the back, (their heads, necks, and legs having been cut off,) -rub with chalk the bars of a very clean gridiron, and set it over a bed -of bright lively wood-coals. This gridiron (and all others) should have -grooved bars, so as to save as much of the gravy as possible. Broil the -ducks well and thoroughly, turning them on both sides. They will -generally be done in half an hour. Dish them in their own gravy. The -flesh should have no redness about it when dished. To half broil them on -the gridiron, and to finish the cooking on a hot plate, set over a -heater on the table, renders the ducks tough, and deadens the natural -taste, for which no made-up sauce can atone. You may lay a few bits of -nice butter on them after they are dished. - - -TERRAPIN DUCKS.--Take a fine large plump duck. Cut it in small pieces, -and stew it in merely as much water as will cover it well, and keep it -from burning. Let it stew gently, and skim it well. When it is done take -it out, and cut all the meat off the bones in little bits. Return the -meat to the stew-pan, and lay it in its own gravy. Add the yolks of half -a dozen hard-boiled eggs, and make them into little balls with beaten -white of egg, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter divided into eight -bits, each bit dredged with flour, the grated yellow rind and juice of a -lemon or orange, and a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg. -Let it stew or simmer gently till it comes to a boil, keeping it -covered. When it has boiled, stir in while hot two beaten yolks of raw -egg, and two large wine glasses of sherry or Madeira. Set it over the -fire again for two or three minutes, keeping it covered. Then serve it -up in a deep dish with a cover. - -For company, you must have two ducks, and a double portion of all the -above ingredients. - - -ROAST FOWLS.--Stuff two fowls with a nice forcemeat, made in the best -manner, or with good sausage meat, if in haste. Another nice stuffing -for roast fowls is boiled chestnuts, stewed in butter, or in nice -drippings. Mushrooms cut up and stewed in a very little butter, make a -fine stuffing for roasted fowls. Secure the stuffing from falling out by -winding a twine or tape round the body of the fowl, or sewing it. Roast -the fowls before a very clear fire, basting them with butter. When the -fowls are done, set them away to be kept warm, while you finish the -gravy, having saved the heart, gizzard, and liver, to enrich it. Skim it -well from the fat and thicken it with a very little browned flour. Send -it to table in a sauce-boat. Serve up with roast fowls, dried peach -sauce, or cranberry. Make all fruit sauces very thick and sweet. If -watery and sour, they seem poor and mean. - -Full-grown fowls require, (at least,) an hour for roasting. If very -large, from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. - -Nothing can be done with old tough fowls but to boil them in soup, till -they are reduced to rags. The soup, of course, should be made chiefly of -meat. The fowls will add nothing to its flavor but something to its -consistence. - -Capons are cooked in the same manner as other fowls. They are well worth -their cost. - - -BOILED FOWLS.--Take a fine plump pair of young (but full-grown) fowls, -and prepare them for boiling. Those with white or light yellow legs are -considered the best. Make a nice forcemeat stuffing, and fill their -bodies with it, and fasten the livers and gizzards under the pinions. -For boiled poultry they are not wanted in the gravy. Having trussed the -fowls, and picked and singed them carefully, put them into a large pot -containing equal quantities of boiling water and cold water. This will -make it lukewarm. Let them boil steadily for an hour after the simmering -has commenced, carefully removing the scum. - -Serve them up with egg sauce, celery sauce, parsley sauce, or oyster -sauce--or, with cauliflower or broccoli sauce. - -For boiled fowls, you may make a nice stuffing of fresh oysters, cut in -small pieces, but not minced. Omit the gristle. Mix them with an equal -portion of hard-boiled eggs chopped, but not minced fine. Add plenty of -grated bread-crumbs, and season with powdered mace. Mix in, also, some -bits of fresh butter. Where onions are liked, you may substitute for the -oysters some onions boiled and minced. - -Fowls boil very nicely in a _bain marie_, or double kettle, with the -water outside. They require a longer time, but are excellent when done. -To quicken the boiling of a double kettle, put a handful of salt in the -outside water. - -Small chickens, of course, require a shorter time to cook. - - -PULLED FOWL.--This is a side dish for company. Select a fine tender -fowl, young, fat, full-grown, and of a large kind. When quite done take -it out of the pot, cover it, and set it away till wanted. Then, with a -fork, pull off in flakes all the flesh, (first removing the skin,) and -with a chopper break all the bones, and put them into a stew-pan, adding -two calves' feet split, and the hock of a cold ham, a small bunch of -parsley and sweet marjoram, and a quart of water. Let it boil gently -till reduced to a pint. Then take it out. Have ready, in another -stew-pan, the bits of pulled fowl. Strain the liquor from the bones, -&c., over the fowl, and add a piece of fresh butter, (the size of a -small egg,) rolled in flour, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace and -nutmeg, mixed. Mix the whole together, and let the pulled fowl stew in -gravy for ten minutes. Serve it hot. - -A turkey may be cooked in this manner, and will make a fine dish. For a -turkey allow four calves' feet. - - -FRIED CHICKENS.--Cut up a pair of nice young fowls, flatten and quarter -them, and season them with cayenne and powdered mace, rubbing it in -well. Put some lard into a heated frying pan over the fire, or if you -have plenty of nice fresh butter use that in preference. When the lard -or butter boils, and has been skimmed, put in the pieces of chicken, and -fry them brown on one side. Then turn them, and sprinkle them thickly -all over with chopped parsley, or sweet marjoram, and fry them brown on -the other side. You may fry with them a few thin slices of cold ham. -Before serving them up drain off the lard you have used for frying. - -When there is no dislike to onions, they may be fried nicely with boiled -onions cut in rings, and laid over the pieces of chicken. - - -BROILED CHICKENS.--These are very dry and tasteless if merely split and -broiled plain, which is the usual way. It seems to be supposed by many -that no chicken is too poor for broiling, and therefore it is often -difficult to get more than two or three small mouthfuls of flesh off -their bones. On the contrary, poor chickens are not worth broiling or -cooking in any way. To have broiled chickens good, choose those that are -fat and fleshy. Having cleaned them well, and washed them, and wiped -them dry, split and divide them into four quarters; flattening the bones -with a steak mallet. They will be much improved by stewing or boiling in -a little water for ten minutes. Then draining them and saving the liquor -for gravy. Boil in this the neck, feet, heart, gizzard and liver. Strain -it after boiling, and save the liver to mash into the gravy. Season the -gravy with grated carrot and minced parsley, or sweet marjoram, and a -little cayenne, adding a small piece of fresh butter dredged in flour. -Have ready plenty of fine bread-crumbs, seasoned with nutmeg, and in -another pan four yolks of eggs well beaten. The quarters of the chickens -having become quite cold, dip each one first into the egg, and then into -the crumbs. Set the gridiron over a clear fire, and broil the chicken -well, first laying down the inside. Having prepared the gravy as above, -give it a short boil, then send it to table in a sauce-boat with the -chickens. - -The excellence of chickens broiled in this way amply repays the trouble. -This is a breakfast dish. - -Serve up with the broiled chicken a dish of mashed potato cakes, browned -with a salamander or red-hot shovel. - - -FRICASSEED CHICKEN.--Have ready a pair of fine plump full-grown fowls -nicely prepared for cooking. Strip off all the skin, and carve the fowls -neatly. Reserve all the white meat and best pieces for the fricassee, -putting them in a dish by themselves, and save all the inferior pieces -or black meat to make the gravy. Season with pepper and salt slightly, -and add a bunch of sweet herbs cut small, and four small bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour. Put the black meat, herbs, &c., into a -stew-pan. Pour in a pint and a half of water, and stew it gently, -skimming off every particle of fat. When reduced to less than one half, -strain the gravy. Arrange the pieces of white meat in a very clean -stew-pan, and pour over them the gravy of the inferior parts; add mace, -nutmeg, and a little cayenne. Mix into half a pint of boiling cream, a -large tea-spoonful of arrow-root, and shake the pan briskly round, while -adding the beaten yolks of two fresh eggs, mixed with more cream, (two -table-spoonfuls.) Shake it gently over the fire till it begins to simmer -again, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle in an instant. -Watch it carefully. - -This is a fine side-dish for company. There is no better way of -fricasseeing fowls. A fricassee is not a fry, but a stew. - -Accompany this fricassee with a dish of asparagus tops, green peas, or -lima beans. Also, mashed potatos. - - -CHICKENS STEWED WHOLE.--Having trussed a pair of fine fat young fowls or -chickens, (with the liver under one wing, and the gizzard under the -other,) fill the inside with large oysters, secured from falling out by -fastening tape round the bodies of the fowls. Put them into a tin butter -kettle with a close cover. Set the kettle into a larger pot or saucepan -of boiling water, (which must not reach quite to the top of the kettle,) -and place it over the fire. Keep it boiling till the fowls are well -done, which they should be in about an hour after they begin to simmer. -Occasionally take off the lid to remove the scum, and be sure to put it -on again closely. As the water in the outside pot boils away, replenish -it with more _hot_ water from a tea-kettle that is kept boiling hard. -When the fowls are stewed quite tender, remove them from the fire; take -from them all the gravy that is about them, and put it into a small -sauce-pan, covering closely the kettle in which they were stewed, and -leaving the fowls in it to keep warm. Then add to the gravy two -table-spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, two table-spoonfuls of -chopped oysters, the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs minced fine, half a -grated nutmeg, four blades of mace, and a small tea-cup of cream. Boil -this gravy about five minutes. Put the fowls on a dish and send them to -table, accompanied by the gravy in a sauce-boat. This is an excellent -way of cooking chickens. They do well in large _bain marie_. - - -FOWL AND OYSTERS.--Take a fine fat young fowl, and having trussed it for -boiling, fill the body and craw with oysters, seasoned with a few blades -of mace, tying it round with twine to keep them in. Put the fowl into a -tall strait-sided jar, and cover it closely. Then place the jar in a -kettle of water, set it over the fire, and let it boil at least an hour -and a half after the water has come to a hard boil. When it is done take -out the fowl, and keep it hot while you prepare the gravy, of which you -will find a quantity in the jar. Transfer this gravy to a saucepan, -enrich it with the beaten yolks of two eggs mixed with three -table-spoonfuls of cream, and add a large table-spoonful of fresh butter -rolled in flour. If you cannot get cream, you must have a double portion -of butter. Set this sauce over the fire, stirring it well, and when it -comes to a boil, add twenty-five oysters. In five minutes take it off, -put it into a sauce-boat, and serve it up with the fowl, which cooked in -this manner will be found excellent. - -Clams may be substituted for oysters, but they should be removed from -the fowl before it is sent to table. Their flavor being drawn out in the -gravy, the clams themselves will be found tough, tasteless, and not -proper to be eaten. - - -FRENCH CHICKEN PIE.--Parboil a pair of full-grown, but fat and tender -chickens. Then take the giblets, and put them into a small sauce-pan -with as much of the water in which the chickens were parboiled as will -cover them well, and stew them for gravy; add a bunch of sweet herbs and -a few blades of mace. When the chickens are cold, dissect them as for -carving. Line a deep dish with thick puff paste, and put in the pieces -of chicken. Take a nice thin slice of cold ham, or two slices of smoked -tongue, and pound them one at a time in a marble mortar, pounding also -the livers of the chickens, and the yolks of half a dozen hard-boiled -eggs. Make this forcemeat into balls, and intersperse them among the -pieces of chicken. Add some bits of fresh butter rolled in flour, and -then (having removed the giblets) pour on the gravy. Cover the pie with -a lid of puff-paste, rolled out thick; and notch the edges handsomely; -placing a knot or ornament of paste on the centre of the top. Set it -directly into a well-heated oven, and bake it brown. It should be eaten -warm. - -This pie will be greatly improved by a pint of mushrooms, cut into -pieces. Also by a small tea-cup of cream. - -Any pie of poultry, pigeons, or game may be made in this manner. - - -CHICKEN GUMBO.--Cut up a young fowl as if for a fricassee. Put into a -stew-pan a large table-spoonful of fresh butter, mixed with a -tea-spoonful of flour, and an onion finely minced. Brown them over the -fire, and then add a quart of water, and the pieces of chicken, with a -large quarter of a peck of ochras, (first sliced thin, and then -chopped,) and a salt-spoon of salt. Cover the pan, and let the whole -stew together, till the ochras are entirely dissolved, and the fowl -thoroughly done. If it is a very young chicken, do not put it in at -first; as half an hour will be sufficient to cook it. Serve it up hot in -a deep dish. - -You may add to the ochras an equal quantity of tomatos cut small. If you -use tomatos, no water will be necessary, as their juice will supply a -sufficient liquid. - - -[D]FILET GUMBO.--Cut up a pair of fine plump fowls into pieces, as when -carving. Lay them in a pan of cold water, till all the blood is drawn -out. Put into a pot, two large table-spoonfuls of lard, and set it over -the fire. When the lard has come to a boil, put in the chickens with an -onion finely minced. Dredge them well with flour, and season slightly -with salt and pepper; and, if you like it, a little chopped marjoram. -Pour on it two quarts of boiling water. Cover it, and let it simmer -slowly for three hours. Then stir into it two heaped tea-spoonfuls of -sassafras powder. Afterwards, let it stew five or six minutes longer, -and then send it to table in a deep dish; having a dish of boiled rice -to be eaten with it by those who like rice. - - [D] Pronounced Fee_lay_. - -This gumbo will be much improved by stewing with it three or four thin -slices of cold boiled ham, in which case omit the salt in the seasoning. -Whenever cold ham is an ingredient in any dish, no other salt is -required. - -A dozen fresh oysters and their liquor, added to the stew about half an -hour before it is taken up, will also be an improvement. - -If you cannot conveniently obtain sassafras-powder, stir the gumbo -frequently with a stick of sassafras root. - -This is a genuine southern receipt. Filet gumbo may be made of any sort -of poultry, or of veal, lamb, venison, or kid. - - -TOMATO CHICKEN.--Take four small chickens or two large ones, and cut -them up as for carving. Put them into a stew-pan, with one or two large -slices of cold boiled ham cut into little bits; eight or ten large -tomatos; an onion sliced; a bunch of pot-herbs,(cut up;) a small green -pepper, (the seeds and veins first extracted;) half a dozen blades of -mace; a table-spoonful of lard or of fresh butter, rolled in flour; or a -handful of grated bread-crumbs. Add a tumbler or half a pint of water. -Cover the sauce-pan closely with a cloth beneath the lid; set it on hot -coals, or over a moderate fire; and let it stew slowly till the chickens -are thoroughly done, and the tomatos entirely dissolved. Turn it out -into a deep dish. - -Rabbits may be stewed in this manner. Also, veal steaks, cut thin and -small. - - -TURKEY AND CHICKEN PATTIES.--Take the white part of some cold turkey or -chicken, and mince it very fine. Mince also some cold boiled ham or -smoked tongue, and then mix the turkey and ham together. Add the yolks -of some hard-boiled eggs, grated or minced; a very little cayenne; and -some powdered mace and nutmeg. Moisten the whole with cream or fresh -butter. Have ready some puff-paste shells, that have been baked empty in -patty-pans. Place them on a large dish, and fill them with the mixture. - -Cold fillet of veal minced, and mixed with chopped ham, and grated yolk -of egg, and seasoned as above will make very good patties. - - -CHICKEN RICE PUDDING.--Parboil a fine fowl, and cut it up. Boil, till -soft and dry, a pint of rice; and while warm, mix with it a large -table-spoonful of fresh butter. Beat four eggs very light; and then mix -them, gradually, with the rice. Spread a coating of the fresh butter, -&c., over the bottom and sides of a deep dish. Place on it the pieces of -the parboiled fowl, with a little of the liquid in which it was -boiled--seasoned with powdered mace and nutmeg. Add some bits of fresh -butter rolled in flour and a little cream. Cover the dish closely with -the remainder of the rice; set the pudding immediately into the oven and -bake it brown. - -Cold chicken or turkey, cooked the day before, may be used for this -purpose. The pudding may be improved by the addition of a few very -thin, small slices of cold ham, or smoked tongue. - - -RICE CROQUETTES.--Boil half a pound of rice till it becomes quite soft -and dry. Then mix with it two table spoonfuls of rich (but not strong) -grated cheese, a small tea-spoonful of powdered mace, and sufficient -fresh butter to moisten it. Mince very fine, six table-spoonfuls of the -white part of cold chicken or turkey, the soft parts of six large -oysters, and a few sprigs of tarragon or parsley; add a grated nutmeg, -and the yellow rind of a lemon. Mix the whole well, moistening it with -cream or white wine. Take of the prepared rice, a portion about the size -of an egg, flatten it, and put into the centre a dessert-spoonful of the -mixture; close the rice round it as you would the paste round a -dumpling-apple. Then form it into the shape of an egg. Brush it over -with some beaten yolk of egg and then dredge it with pounded crackers. -In this way make up the whole into oval balls. Have ready, in a -sauce-pan over the fire, a pound of boiling lard. Into this throw the -croquettes, two at a time, so as to brown them. Let them brown for a few -minutes; then take them out with a perforated skimmer. Drain them from -the lard, and serve them up hot, garnished with curled parsley. - - -CHICKEN POT-PIE.--Cut up and parboil a pair of large fowls, seasoning -them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. You may add some small slices of -cold ham; in which case use _no salt_, as the ham will make it salt -enough. Or you may put in some pieces of the lean of fresh pork. You may -prepare a suet-paste; but for a chicken pot-pie it is best to make the -paste of butter, which should be fresh, and of the best quality. Allow -to each quart of flour, a small half-pound of butter. There should be -enough for a great deal of paste. Line the sides of the pot, two-thirds -up, with paste. Put in the chickens, with the liquor in which they were -parboiled. You may add some sliced potatos. Intersperse the pieces of -chicken with layers of paste in square slices. Then cover the whole with -a lid of paste, not fitting very closely. Make a cross-slit in the top, -and boil the pie about an hour or more. - -Instead of ham, you may add some clams to the chicken, omitting salt in -the seasoning, as the clams will salt it quite enough. - - -CHICKEN CURRY.--Having skinned a pair of fine chickens, cut them into -six pieces each, that is, two wings, two pieces of the breast, and two -legs cut off at the joint. Put into a stew-pan two boiled onions -chopped, and four ounces or four table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Shake -the pan till the contents begin to simmer; then add four table-spoonfuls -of curry-powder and mix it well in; also, four table-spoonfuls of -grated cocoa-nut. Mix all well in the stew-pan, and then put in the -pieces of chicken. Cover the pan, and let all stew moderately for half -an hour, stirring it round occasionally; and, if getting too dry, add a -little hot water. Also, towards the last, the grated yellow rind of a -lemon and the juice. It should stew till the chicken is quite tender, -and till the flesh parts easily from the bones. Serve it up hot, in a -covered dish, and send half a pound of boiled rice in a separate dish, -_uncovered_. This is a dish for company. - -Young ducks, or a young hen turkey, or a pair of rabbits, may be cooked -in the same manner. Also, lamb or veal. - -For curried oysters, take a hundred large fresh ones, and proceed as -above. - - -RICE PIE.--Pick clean a quart of rice, and wash it well through two or -three waters. Tie it in a cloth, put it into a pot of boiled milk, and -boil it till perfectly soft. Then drain and press it till as dry as -possible, and mix with it two ounces of fresh butter. Take a small tin -butter-kettle; wet the inside, put in the rice, and stand it in a cool -place till quite cold. Then turn it carefully out of the kettle, (of -which it will retain the form,) rub it over with the beaten yolk of an -egg, and set it in an oven till lightly browned. Cut out from the top of -the mass of rice an oval lid, about two inches from the edge, so as to -leave a flat rim or border all round. Then excavate the mould of rice, -leaving a standing crust all round and at the bottom, about two inches -thick. Have ready some hot stewed oysters or birds, or brown or white -fricassee. Fill up the pie with it, adding the gravy. Lay on the lid, -and decorate it with sprigs of green curled parsley, stuck in all round -the crack where the lid is put on. - -This pie may be filled with curried chicken. - - -COUNTRY CAPTAIN.--This is an East India dish, and a very easy -preparation of curry. The term "country captain," signifies a captain of -the native troops, (or Sepoys,) in the pay of England; their own country -being India, they are there called generally the country troops. -Probably this dish was first introduced at English tables by a Sepoy -officer. - -Having well boiled a fine full-grown fowl, cut it up as for carving. -Have ready two large onions boiled and sliced. Season the pieces of -chicken with curry powder or turmeric; rubbed well into them, all over. -Fry them with the onion, in plenty of lard or fresh butter, and when -well-browned they are done enough. Take them up with a perforated -skimmer, and drain through its holes. It will be a great improvement to -put in, at the beginning, three or four table-spoonfuls of finely grated -cocoa-nut. This will be found an advantage to any curry. - -Serve up, in another dish, a pint of rice, well picked, and washed -clean in two or three cold waters. Boil the rice in plenty of water, -(leaving the skillet or sauce-pan uncovered;) and when it is done, drain -it very dry, and set it on a dish before the fire, tossing it up with -two forks, one in each hand, so as to separate all the grains, leaving -each one to stand for itself. All rice for the dinner table should be -cooked in this manner. Persons accustomed to rice never eat it watery or -clammy, or lying in a moist mass. Rice should never be covered, either -while boiling, or when dished. - -We recommend this "country captain." - - -CURRIED EGGS.--Boil six fresh eggs till they are hard enough for salad, -and then set them away to get cold. Mix together, in a stew-pan, three -ounces (or three large table-spoonfuls) of nice fresh butter, and three -dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder. Shake them together for five minutes -over a clear but moderate fire. Then throw in two boiled onions finely -minced, and let them cook, gently, till quite soft, adding three ounces -or three large spoonfuls of grated cocoa-nut. Cut the eggs into rather -thick slices. Put them into the mixture, with a small tea-cupful of -thick cream, or if you cannot obtain cream, with two more spoonfuls of -butter dredged with flour. Let the whole simmer together, but when it -approaches coming to a boil, take it immediately off the fire and serve -it up hot. This is a nice side-dish for company. - - -PARTRIDGES PEAR FASHION--(_French dish._)--Your partridges should be -fine and fat, and of the same size. For a large dish have three or four. -Truss them tight and round, and rub over them a little salt and cayenne, -mixed. Cut off one of the legs and leave the other on, fill them with a -nice forcemeat. Make a rich paste of flour, butter, and beaten egg, -using as little water as possible. Be sure to make enough of paste to -cover each partridge entirely over, and roll it out evenly, and rather -thick than thin. Put a sufficient portion of paste nicely round each -partridge, pressing it closely and smoothly with your hand, and forming -it into the shape of a large pear. Leave one leg sticking out at the top -to resemble the stem, having cut off the foot. Set them in a pan, and -bake them in a dutch oven. In the mean time, make in a small sauce-pan, -a rich brown gravy of the livers, and other trimmings of the partridges, -and some drippings of roast veal or roasted poultry. It will be better -still if you reserve one or two small partridges to cut up, and stew for -the gravy. Season it with a little salt and cayenne. When it has boiled -long enough to be very thick and rich, take it off, strain it, and put -the liquid into a clean sauce-pan. Add the juice of a large orange, made -very sweet with powdered white sugar. Set it over the fire, and when it -comes to a boil, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. Let it boil two -or three minutes longer; then take it off, and keep it hot till the -partridges and their paste are thoroughly well baked. When done, stand -up the partridges in a deep dish, and serve up the gravy in a -sauce-boat. Ornament the partridge-pears by sticking some orange leaves -into the end that represents the stalk. This is a nice and handsome side -dish, of French origin. - -Pigeons and quails may be dressed in this manner. - - -SALMI OF PARTRIDGES--(_French dish._)--Having covered two large or four -small partridges with very thin slices of fat cold ham, secured with -twine, roast them; but see that they are not too much done. Remove the -ham, skin the partridges, cut them into pieces, and let them get quite -cold. Partridges that have been roasted the preceding day are good for -this purpose. Cut off all the meat from the bones, season it with a -little cayenne, and put it into a stew-pan. Mix together three -table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, a glass of excellent wine, (either red or -white,) and the grated peel and juice of an orange. Pour this gravy over -the partridges, and let them stew in it during ten minutes; then add the -beaten yolk of an egg, and stew it about three or four minutes longer. -All the time it is stewing, continue to shake or move the pan over the -fire. Serve it up hot. - - -ROASTED PARTRIDGES, PHEASANTS, AND QUAILS.--Make a stuffing of fat bacon -finely minced, and boiled chestnuts or grated sweet potatoe boiled, -mashed, and seasoned with pepper only. Fill the birds with this. Cover -them with thin slices of bacon, and wrap them well in young vine leaves. -Roast them well, and serve them up in the bacon and vine leaves, to be -taken off when they come to table. For company, have orange sauce to eat -with them. If you roast pigeons, &c., without a covering of bacon and -vine leaves, do them with egg and bread-crumbs all over. - -If these birds have a bitter taste when cooked, do not eat them. It is -produced by their feeding on laurel berries in winter, when their food -is scarce. Laural berries are poisonous, and people have died from -eating birds that have fed on them. - - -BIRDS WITH MUSHROOMS.--Take two dozen reed-birds, (or other nice small -birds,) and truss them as if for roasting. Put into each a button -mushroom, of which you should have a heaping pint after the stalks are -all removed. Put the birds and the remaining mushrooms into a stew-pan. -Season them with a very little salt and pepper, and add either a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter (divided into four, and slightly rolled in -flour,) or a pint of rich cream. If cream is not plenty, you may use -half butter and half cream, well mixed together. Cover the stew-pan -closely, and set it over a moderate fire, to stew gently till the birds -and mushrooms are thoroughly done and tender all through. Do not open -the lid to stir the stew, but give the pan, occasionally, a hard shake. -Dip in hot water a large slice of toast with the crust trimmed off. -When the birds are done lay them on the toast with the mushrooms around. - -If you cannot get button-mushrooms, divide large ones into quarters. - -Plovers are very nice stewed with mushrooms. - - -BIRDS IN A GROVE--(_French dish._)--Having roasted some reed-birds, -larks, plovers, or any other small birds, such as are usually eaten, -mash some potatos with butter and cream. Spread the mashed potato -thickly over the bottom, sides, and edges of a deep dish. Nick or crimp -the border of potatoe that goes round the edge, or scollop it with a tin -cutter. You may, if you choose, brown it by holding over it a -salamander, or a red-hot shovel. Then lay the roasted birds in the -middle of the dish, and stick round them and among them, very thickly, a -sufficient number of sprigs of curled or double parsley. - - -THATCHED HOUSE PIE--(_French dish._)--Rub the inside of a deep dish with -two ounces of fresh butter, and spread over it two ounces of vermicelli. -Then line the dish with puff-paste. Have ready some birds seasoned with -powdered nutmeg, and a very little salt and pepper. Place them with the -breast downward. They will be much improved by putting into each a -mushroom or an oyster chopped fine. Lay them on the paste. Add some -gravy of roast veal, (cold gravy saved from veal roasted the preceding -day will do very well,) and cover the pie with a lid of puff-paste. Bake -it in a moderate oven, and when done, turn it out _carefully_ upon a -flat dish, and send it to table. The vermicelli, which was originally at -the bottom, will now be at the top, covering the paste like thatch upon -a roof. Trim off the edge, so as to look nicely. You may, if you choose, -use a larger quantity of vermicelli. The yellow sort will be best for -this purpose. - - -BIRDS PREPARED FOR LARDING.--Cut a thin slice of fresh veal, and fill -the bird with it, adding a bit of fat bacon. Tie a string round the body -to keep in the stuffing, and roast the bird head downward. The gravy of -the meat will diffuse a pleasant taste all through the bird. - -After being well roasted, let it get cold, and then lard it all over the -breast with lardons or regular slips of fat bacon, put in with a larding -needle, and left standing in rows. It is more easy to lard poultry or -game when cold, rather than warm. Lardons should be set very close and -evenly. - - -BIRD DUMPLINGS.--Take a large tender beef steak, trim off all the fat, -and remove the bone. Make a large sheet of nice suet paste. Lay the beef -steak upon it, seasoned with pepper and a very little salt. In the -centre of the meat place either a partridge, a quail, a plover, or any -nice game, or three or four reed-birds--season with powdered mace and -nutmeg. Add some bits of excellent fresh butter, dredged with flour. -Inclose the birds completely in the steak, so that the game flavor may -pervade the whole. Close the crust over all, so as to form a large -dumpling. Tie it in a cloth. Put it into a pot of fast-boiling water, -and boil it well, turning it several times with a fork. Dish it very -hot. - -If game is not convenient, a fine tame fat pigeon may be substituted. - - -TO ROAST WOODCOCKS OR SNIPES.--Be very careful in plucking these to pull -out the feathers as carefully and handle them as lightly as possible; -for the skin is very easily torn or broken. Do not draw them, for -epicures have decided, that the trail, (as they call the intestines,) is -the most delicious part of the bird, and should by all means be saved -for eating. Having wiped the outside carefully with a soft cloth, truss -them with the head under the wing, and the bill laid along upon the -breast. Keep the legs bent from the knees, retaining that posture by -means of a splinter skewer. Suspend the birds to a bird-spit, with their -feet downward. Melt some fresh butter in the dripping-pan, and baste -them with it, having first dredged the birds with flour. Before the -trail begins to drop, (which it will do as soon as they are well -heated,) lay a thick round of very nice toast, (with the crust pared -off,) buttered on both sides, and placed in the dripping-pan beneath, so -as to catch the trail as it falls; allowing a slice of toast to each -bird, with the trail spread equally over it. Continue the basting, -letting the butter fall back from them into the basting spoon. When the -birds are done, which will be in less than half an hour at a brisk -fire--carefully transfer the toasts to a very hot dish; place the birds -upon them, and pour some gravy round the toast. - -Snipes require less cooking than woodcocks. These birds are very -fashionable; but we do not think either of them superlative. They seldom -appear except at supper parties. - - -PLOVERS.--This is a very nice bird, with a peculiar and pleasant flavor. -They abound near our large bays and estuaries in the vicinity of the -ocean. There are two sorts, the green plover and the gray. Roast them -plain; basting them only with butter. Or fill them with a forcemeat, and -go entirely over the outside, first with beaten egg, and then roll each -plover in finely grated bread-crumbs. - -If very fat, stew them plain in butter rolled in flour. Then serve them -up in their own gravy, enriched with a beaten egg. They make a nice -breakfast dish, either roasted or stewed. And are excellent in pies. - - -REED BIRDS.--Reed birds and rice birds are the same. They are very -small, (only a mouthful on each side of the breast,) but very delicious, -and _immensely fat_ in the summer and autumn. They are brought to market -with a lump of fat skewered on the outside, and are sold by the dozen -strung on a stick like cherries. - -To cook them, roast them on a bird-spit, basting with their own fat, as -it drips. A nice way for retaining the whole flavor is to tie each bird -closely in a vine leaf, and bake them in a dutch oven. Or wrap them in -double vine leaves, and roast them in the ashes of a wood fire. Remove -the vine leaves before the birds are dished. - - -ROASTED PIGEONS.--Take fine fat _tame_ pigeons, and clean and truss them -nicely. Four pigeons, at least, are requisite to make a dish. Prepare a -stuffing or forcemeat of finely minced veal, and an equal quantity of -cold-boiled ham, seasoned with powdered mace and a very little cayenne. -Also, two slices of bread and butter soaked in as much milk as they will -absorb. Fill their bodies with this, (tying a string round to keep it -in,) and roast the pigeons till thoroughly done; basting with fresh -butter or lard. - -Or you may stuff the pigeons with chopped mushrooms, seasoned with a -little cayenne, and putting into each a piece of fresh butter rolled in -flour. - -Or you may stuff them with sweet potatos, boiled well, and mashed with -plenty of fresh butter. Or with chestnuts, boiled, peeled, and mashed -with butter. - -Wild pigeons are generally too poor to roast. In places where they -abound, it has been found very profitable to catch them in nets, clip -their wings, and put them into inclosures, feeding them well with corn -so as to make them fat. They will then bring as high a price as tame -pigeons. - - - - -SAUCES. - - -MELTED BUTTER.--_For Sauces._--This is frequently called Drawn Butter. -For this purpose none should be used but fresh butter of the very best -quality. It is usually sent to table with boiled fish and boiled -poultry. Also, with boiled mutton, lamb, and veal. It is never served up -with any thing roasted, fried or broiled. Numerous sauces are made with -melted butter. If mixed with too much flour and water, and not enough of -butter, it will be very poor, particularly if the water is in too large -proportions. To prepare it properly, allow a quarter of a pound of nice -butter, to a heaped table-spoonful of flour. Mix the butter and flour -thoroughly, _before_ it goes on the fire. Then add to it four large -table-spoonfuls of milk, or hot water, well mixed in. Hold it over the -fire in a small sauce-pan, kept for the purpose. One lined with what is -called porcelain or enamel is best. Take care there is no blaze where -the sauce-pan is held. Cover it, and shake it over the fire till it -boils. Then having skimmed it, add three or four hard-boiled eggs -chopped small, and give it one more boil up; or season it with any other -ingredient with which you wish to distinguish the sauce. - - -CLARIFIED BUTTER.--For this purpose use none but the very best fresh -butter, such as is made in summer, when the cows are well pastured. Cut -up the butter, put it into an enameled or porcelain stew-pan, and melt -it gently over a clear and moderate fire. When it simmers, skim it -thoroughly, draw it from the fire, and let it stand five minutes, that -the milk or sediment may sink to the bottom. Then pour it clear from the -sediment through a muslin strainer, or a fine clean hair sieve. Transfer -to jars with close covers, and keep them in a cool dry place. If well -prepared, and originally very good, this butter will answer for sauces, -stews, &c., and continue good a long time. In France, where they do not -_salt_ any butter, large quantities are melted in this way for winter -use. - - -COLORING FOR SAUCES.--_For Pink Sauce._ Take a few chips of red alkanet -root, (to be had at the druggist's.) Pick it clean, and tie it in a very -thin muslin bag. Put the alkanet into the mixture, and let it infuse in -the boiling drawn butter. It will communicate a beautiful pink color, -which you may heighten, by pressing the bag a little. When done, take -out the bag, and stir the alkanet color evenly through the sauce. The -alkanet has no taste, and is very cheap. Beet juice will color a -tolerable red. - -_For Green Sauce._--Pound some fresh spinach leaves, till you extract a -tea-cup or more of the clear green juice. Stir it into the melted butter -while boiling. - -_For Yellow Sauce._--Tie up a very little turmeric powder in a muslin -bag. Let it boil in the butter. When done, take it out of the sauce-pan, -and stir the yellow coloring evenly through the sauce. - -_For White Sauce._--Make this with cream instead of milk. - -_For Brown Sauce._--Stir in plenty of French mustard. - -_For Wine Sauce._--Stir in, just before you take the sauce from the -fire, a large wine-glass or more of _very good_ white wine, and grate in -half a large nutmeg, adding the grated yellow rind, and the juice of a -lemon. The wine must be of excellent quality, otherwise it will give a -bad taste to the sauce. - - -WHITE THICKENING--(_French Roux._)--Cut up a quarter of a pound of the -best fresh butter, and put it into a well tinned or enameled sauce-pan. -Set it over a moderate fire, and melt it slowly, shaking it round -frequently, and taking care to skim it well. When no more scum appears -on the surface, let it settle a few minutes; then pour it off from the -sediment at the bottom. Wash the sauce-pan or get another clean one. -Return the melted butter to it, and set it again over the fire. Then -dredge in gradually sufficient sifted flour to make it very thick and -smooth, stirring it well after each addition of flour. Do not allow it -to brown in the slightest degree, but keep it perfectly white to the -last; simmering, but not actually boiling, and take care that there is -no smoke about the fire. - -To thicken white sauces, or soups, stir in a table-spoonful or two of -this roux, pronounced _roo_. In French cooking it passes for cream. - -Browned thickening is made in the same manner; but with butter and -browned flour, and is used for brown soups and gravies. - - -BROWNING.--This is to enrich the taste and improve the color of gravies, -stews, and soups. Mix a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar with -two ounces of fine fresh butter; and, having stirred them well together, -put them into a sauce-pan over the fire, and simmer till it begins to -froth; then diminish the heat a little. When its color becomes a fine -dark brown, add two glasses of port wine, and three or four blades of -mace, powdered. When it comes to a boil, take it off, and stir it into -whatever you intend to color. - -Another browning is mushroom catchup, or walnut catchup. They -communicate a slightly acid taste. So also does French mustard. Stir it -in at the last. Its tarragon flavor is very generally liked. - - -BROWNED FLOUR.--Sift some fine flour, spread it on a large dish, or -clean tin-pan. Place it before the fire, so as to brown but not to -scorch or burn. It will color first at the edges; therefore watch it, -and keep it evenly mixed with the white flour from the centre. When all -is nicely browned, set it to cool, and then put it away for use in a -large clean bottle or jar, well corked. Flour may be browned in an oven, -after baking is over, taking care to stir it well.--Have two dredging -boxes. One for browned flour and one for white. It is convenient also to -have dredging-boxes for powdered herbs. The cost of these boxes is very -trifling, and it saves time and trouble to have things ready when -wanted. A small sieve for powdered white sugar is indispensable. - - -LOBSTER SAUCE.--This sauce is for fresh salmon or turbot, or -sheep's-head fish. Also for salmon-trout, blue-fish, or the lake -white-fish. - -Put a large hen lobster into a hard-boiling pot of highly-salted water, -that the animal may die immediately. Continue the boiling with a steady -heat, and in about three quarters, or an hour, the lobster will be done. -When cold, extract all the meat from the shell, and cut it into small -bits. Pound the coral, or red substance, in a marble mortar, with some -fresh butter, or plenty of salad oil; and a little cayenne. Add the -coral to the cut-up lobster, and put the whole into a stew-pan, with -some powdered mace and nutmeg, and a large table-spoonful of sweet oil. -Divide into four bits a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, each bit -rolled in flour. If your butter is not fresh and very good, omit it -entirely and substitute a larger quantity of oil. As bad butter spoils -every thing, never on any account, use it. Set the sauce-pan over the -fire, and let it boil up once. Then take it off, and while very hot, -stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. - -Crab sauce is made in the same manner. Prawn sauce also. - - -SHRIMP SAUCE.--Shrimps are the smallest shell-fish of the lobster -species. Put them into salted boiling water. They are done when they -have turned entirely red. When cold, pull off the heads, and peel off -the shells from the bodies; or _squeeze_ out the meat with your fingers. -Have ready some nice drawn butter, and thicken it with the shrimps, -either chopped or whole. Season the sauce with mace or nutmeg powdered, -and give it one boil up. Shrimp sauce is eaten with salmon and other -fine fish. - - -PICKLED SHRIMPS.--Having boiled, in salted water, three quarts or more -of shrimps, and taken them from the shells, boil two quarts of the best -cider vinegar, and season it well with blades of mace and pepper-corns, -and pour it hot on the shrimps, in a stone jar. Cork the jar, and seal -the cork with the usual red cement for pickle jars: a mixture of -one-third beeswax with two-thirds powdered rosin, and some fine -brickdust, all melted together. - - -OYSTER SAUCE.--Take a pint of the liquor of _fresh_ oysters, and strain -it into a sauce-pan. If your oysters are salt, and you can get no -others, boil a pint of milk instead of the oyster liquor, seasoning with -powdered nutmeg and mace, and enriching it with fresh butter dredged -with flour. When it has come to a boil, put in the oysters (having -removed from each the gristle, or hard part.) Let them simmer, but take -them from the fire without letting them come to a boil, which will -shrivel them, and render them tough and tasteless. A new fashion is to -season oyster sauce with the grated yellow rind and juice of a fresh -lemon. Others stir in a glass of sherry or Madeira. If you use wine or -lemon, you must not make the sauce with milk, as it will curdle. Use in -this case the oyster liquor, if it is fresh, thickened well with finely -grated bread-crumbs. The small, highly-flavored oysters, abounding on -the coast of New England, are excellent for sauce, or soups. - - -CLAM SAUCE.--Make this of half milk and half clam liquor, seasoned with -whole mace, and whole pepper. Use only the soft part of the clams, cut -up small, and simmer them from the beginning; adding bits of butter -dredged all over with flour Clams require longer cooking than oysters. - - -EGG SAUCE.--Boil four eggs from eight to twelve minutes. Then lay them -in a pan of fresh water, and let them remain till quite cold. Peel off -the shells, and take out the eggs. Chop the yolks and whites separately; -mix them, lightly, into half a pint of melted fresh butter, made in the -proportion of a quarter of a pound of butter to two large -table-spoonfuls of flour, and four of milk and hot water. Add some -powdered mace, or nutmeg. Egg sauce is eaten with boiled fish and -poultry. - -Instead of milk or water, you can use for melted butter, some of the -water in which chicken or turkey was boiled, or some veal gravy. - - -CELERY SAUCE.--Split and cut up into short slips a bunch of celery, -having taken off the green leaves from the tops. The celery must have -been well washed, and laid an hour in cold water. Take a pint of milk, -and cut up in it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter that has been well -dredged with flour. Set it over the fire in a sauce-pan, and add the -celery gradually; also three or four blades of mace broken up. Boil all -slowly together, till the celery is quite soft and tender, but not -dissolved. The green tops of the celery, (strewed in, when it begins to -simmer,) will improve the flavor. Celery sauce is served up with boiled -turkey, boiled fowls, and with any sort of fresh fish, boiled or fried. - - -MINT SAUCE.--This is only used for roast lamb in the spring. When the -lambs are grown into sheep, the mint is too old for sauce. But they -harmonize very pleasantly when both are young. - -Take a large bunch of fine fresh green mint, that has been washed well. -Strip the leaves from the stems, and mince them small. Put it into a -pint bowl, and mix with it gradually some of the best cider vinegar. -This sauce must not be the least liquid, but as thick as horse-radish -sauce or thicker. Make it very sweet, with the best brown sugar. Mix it -well, and transfer to a small tureen, or a little deep dish with a -tea-spoon in it. Serve it up always with roast lamb, putting a -tea-spoonful on the rim of your plate. - -A quart or more of mint sauce, made as above, but with a larger -proportion of sugar and vinegar, will keep very well for several weeks, -in a jar well corked. - - -HORSE-RADISH.--Wash clean some roots of horse-radish, wipe them dry, and -scrape off the outside. Then grate the sticks of horse-radish with a -large grater. Put some of the grated horse-radish into a large saucer, -or small deep plate, and moisten it with good cider vinegar, but do not -put so much vinegar as will render it liquid. Send it to table with -roast beef or mutton. - - -CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.--Have ready some very rich good melted or drawn -butter, made with milk and flavored with nutmeg. Thicken it with plenty -of ready-boiled cauliflower, cut into little sprigs or blossoms. Give it -one boil up after the cauliflower is in, and send it to table with any -sort of boiled poultry. It will be found very nice. For a boiled turkey -it is far superior to celery sauce, and well suited to dinner company. - - -BROCCOLI SAUCE.--Make some nice drawn butter with milk. Flavor it with -powdered mace. Pound some spinach in a mortar to extract the juice. -Strain the spinach juice, and stir a small tea-cupful into the butter to -give it a fine green color. Have ready some well-boiled broccoli. Divide -one or two heads of the broccoli into tufts or sprigs. Put them into the -melted butter, and when it comes to a boil, take it off, and transfer it -to a sauce-boat. Serve it up with boiled poultry or fresh fish. - - -PARSLEY SAUCE.--Strip from the stalks the leaves of some fresh green -parsley; allow plenty of it. Chop it slightly; and while the drawn -butter is hot, stir into it the parsley, till the butter looks very -green. Serve it up with boiled fowls, rabbits, or boiled fish. The -appearance of parsley sauce will be much improved by stirring in some -spinach juice. The whole will be then a fine green. - - -CRIMPED PARSLEY.--Pick the small sprigs of parsley from the large -stalks. Wash it, and then throw it into clean cold water. After the meat -or fish that it is to accompany has been fried and taken out of the pan, -give the fat that remains a boil up, and lay the parsley into it. It -will crimp and still continue green, if not kept frying too long. Take -it out, drain it, and place it before the fire a few minutes, to dry it -from the fat. Dish it laid on the top of the fish or steaks. - - -FENNEL SAUCE.--The fennel should be young and fresh. Take a large -handful, or more, and having washed it clean, strip the leaves from the -stems, and boil it till quite tender. Put it into a sieve, and press the -water well from it. Mince it very small, and stir it into drawn butter. - -It is served up with boiled fish. - -Instead of melted butter, you may put the fennel into veal gravy, -thickened with butter dredged with flour. - - -SAGE AND ONION SAUCE.--Take a bunch of fresh sage leaves. Wash and drain -them. Pick them from the stems, and put them to boil in a small -sauce-pan, with just water enough to cover them. Boil them fast about -ten minutes. Take them out, and press them in a sieve to drain them dry. -Then mince or chop them small. Have ready two onions, boiled tender in -another sauce-pan; chop them also, and mix them well with the minced -sage. While warm, mix in a small bit of nice butter--season with pepper. -Put this sauce into a little tureen, and serve it up with roast goose, -roast duck, or roast pork, that has been stuffed with potato, bread, or -other stuffing. The sage and onion sauce is for those who prefer their -flavor to any other seasoning for those dishes. - -This sauce will be greatly improved if moistened with some of the gravy -of the duck or goose. - - -FINE ONION SAUCE.--Peel some nice mild onions, and boil them in plenty -of milk, skimming them well. When done, take them out of the milk, -(saving it,) and slice them very thin, cutting the slices across, so as -to make the pieces of onion very small. Return them to the sauce-pan of -milk, (adding some fresh butter dredged with flour;) season them with -powdered mace or nutmeg, and give the onions another boil, till they are -soft enough to mash, and to thicken the milk all through. Eat this sauce -with steaks, cutlets, rabbits, or chickens. - - -PLAIN ONION SAUCE.--Peel some very small onions, and boil them whole in -milk, (seasoned slightly with pepper and salt,) and put in some bits of -butter rolled in flour. Let them boil till tender all through, but not -till they loose their shape. Eat them with any sort of boiled meat. - - -NASTURTION SAUCE.--This is eaten with boiled mutton; is superior to -caper sauce, and costs almost nothing, if you have nasturtions in your -garden. Gather the green seeds as soon as they are full grown, and throw -them (without the stems) into a jar of cider vinegar. They require no -cooking, but keep a muslin bag of spice in the jar, (mace and nutmeg -broken small, and a little piece of root ginger.) To use them for sauce, -make some nice drawn butter, and as it simmers throw in plenty of -nasturtions from the jar. The seeds, when gathered, should be full -grown, but by no means hard; and the color a fine green. If there is the -slightest brown tinge, the nasturtion seeds are too old, and should be -kept for planting. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE.--Have ready some excellent drawn butter, and thicken it -with small button mushrooms that have been pickled. Or, take -freshly-gathered mushrooms of good size, rub off the outer skin with a -clean flannel, and cut off the stems close to the flaps. Wash the -mushrooms in a cullender. Have ready some bits of fresh butter dredged -all over with flour. Lay them among the mushrooms, (which, if very -large, should be quartered,) and put them into a stew-pan. Cover the -pan, and let them stew till the mushrooms are all tender. When you take -off the lid to try them, replace it immediately, keeping in as much of -the aroma as possible. If fresh, they will yield a great deal of juice. -When done, transfer them to a sauce-tureen, and serve them up with any -nice dish of meat or poultry. - -The best mushrooms are found in pure open air or rather high ground, and -where there is no swamp or woodland. On the upper side of their top they -are not white, but of a pale grayish tint; the under side is invariably -light red, pinkish, or pale salmon color, which in a few hours, or after -being gathered, turns brown. The false mushrooms are poisonous. They are -entirely white above and below. The fungi that grow in forests or -marshes can never be mistaken for real mushrooms. They are of various -colors, chiefly bright yellow and red, and originate in foul air. By -boiling a silver tea-spoon with your mushrooms, you may test their -goodness. If the silver turns black, throw the mushrooms away. An onion -will also blacken from the same cause. Mushrooms should be cooked as -soon as possible. If kept two or three days, worms will be found in -them. Never give mushrooms to children. Even in their best state they -are not wholesome. The taste for mushrooms is an acquired one, and it is -best not to acquire it. - - -TOMATO SAUCE.--Scald some large ripe tomatos, to make them peel easily. -Then quarter them, and press them through a sieve to divest them of -their seeds. Put the juice into a stew-pan, adding some bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour; add finely grated bread-crumbs, and season -with a little pepper, and, if liked, a little onion boiled and minced. -Set the pan over a moderate fire, and let the tomatos simmer slowly till -it comes to a boil. Continue the boiling ten minutes longer. Serve it up -in a sauce-tureen. It will be mellowed and improved by stirring in (as -soon as it comes to a boil) a table-spoonful or a lump of white sugar. - - -TARRAGON SAUCE.--Put into a sauce-pan a large half pint of any nice -gravy that is at hand. After it has boiled five minutes, have ready a -handful of fresh green tarragon leaves, minced, and moistened with -plenty of cider vinegar. Add this to the gravy, and let it simmer five -minutes. Then take it out, and serve it up with any kind of boiled -poultry. - - -TO MAKE GRAVY.--Take two pounds of the lean of veal, or of very nice -beef. Cut it into small bits, and lay it in a sauce-pan with only as -much water as will cover it. Stew it slowly, (skimming it well) till the -meat is all rags. Then strain the gravy, and thicken it with some bits -of fresh butter dredged all over with browned flour, and give it -another simmer. You may flavor it with any seasoning you like. - -For made gravies, you can use any small pieces of fresh meat that has -never been cooked, and the feet of calves and pigs. Boil in it also such -vegetables as you like, cut small. Strain out every thing before it goes -to table. For gravies, use nothing that has been cooked before. They -will not add to its goodness, but only render it flat and washy. - -White gravy is made with fresh veal boiled in milk; and after straining, -thickened arrow-root, or rice flour, mixed with fresh butter, if real -cream cannot be obtained. - - -MUSHROOM CATCHUP.--Let the mushrooms be large and freshly-gathered, for -they soon become worm-eaten if not speedily salted. They should be well -examined. Cut off the stalks of four quarts of nice mushrooms. Put the -flaps into a deep earthen pan, and break them up with your hands. Strew -among them half a pound of salt, reserving the largest portion of it for -the top. Let them stand for three days, stirring them gently every -morning. The fourth day, put them into a sieve, and draw off the liquor -without pressing the mushrooms. When all the liquor has drained through, -measure it, allowing to each quart a tea-spoon of cayenne, a dozen -blades of mace, and a nutmeg broken up. Put the whole into a porcelain -kettle, and boil it slowly till reduced one half. Then pour it into a -clean white-ware pitcher, cover it with a folded napkin, and keep it in -a cool dry place till next day. Then, through a funnel, pour it gently -from the sediment into small bottles. Finish with a tea-spoonful of -sweet oil on the top of each. Cork the bottles tightly, and seal the -corks. - -The next time you make catchup, proceed as above with the new mushrooms, -and other ingredients; and, when it is done, strain it, and put it into -a clean kettle. Then add to it a quart of _last year's_ mushroom -catchup, and boil it a quarter of an hour. Then bottle it as above. - -This double catchup is very fine. - - -WALNUT CATCHUP.--Take two hundred walnuts or butter-nuts, while the -green shell is still so soft that you can pierce it with the head of a -pin. Bruise them to small pieces, in a marble mortar. Transfer them to a -broad stone-ware pan, and stew among them six handfuls of salt. Stir -them three times a day, for ten days or two weeks. Then squeeze and -strain them through a cloth, pressing them very dry, till no more juice -comes out. Boil up the liquor with two quarts of cider vinegar, half an -ounce of mace, half an ounce of whole pepper, half an ounce of nutmegs -broken up, and two roots of ginger cut small, and half a dozen shalots -or small onions, peeled and cut up, and a large bunch of sweet herbs. -Let the whole boil for half an hour. Then pour off the liquor into a -large pitcher, leaving out the bunch of sweet herbs. Pour off the liquor -(through a funnel,) into small bottles, having first put into the bottom -of each bottle a portion of the spice. Fill the bottle up to the top -with the catchup, finishing with a tea-spoonful of salad oil, which will -greatly assist in keeping the catchup good. Cork the bottles very -closely, and seal the corks. - - -TOMATO CATCHUP.--Take a peck of large ripe tomatos. In the middle States -they are in perfection the last of August. Late in the autumn they are -comparatively insipid and watery. Cut a slit down the side of every -tomato. Put them into a large preserving kettle without any water. Their -own juice is sufficient. On no account boil tomatos in brass or copper, -their acid acting on those metals produces verdigris, and renders them -poisonous. Boil them till they are quite soft, and easily mashed, -stirring them up frequently from the bottom. Press and mash them through -a hair sieve, till all the pulp has run out into the pan below, leaving -in the sieve only the skins and seeds. Season the liquid with a little -salt, some cayenne, and plenty of powdered nutmeg and mace. Mix it well, -and when cold put up the catchup in small jars, the covers pasted all -round with bands of white paper. This catchup, when done, should be very -thick and smooth. - - -LEMON CATCHUP.--Take six fine large ripe lemons, and roll them under -your hand to increase the quantity of juice. Grate off all the yellow -rind, and squeeze the juice into a pitcher, removing all the seeds. -Prepare two ounces of finely scraped horse-radish, and two ounces of -minced shalots, or very small onions. Put them into a pint of boiling -vinegar, in which half an ounce of bruised ginger and a quarter of an -ounce of mace have been simmered for five minutes. Add to this the -lemon-juice and the grated peel, and two grated nutmegs. Boil all -together for half an hour, and then transfer it with all the ingredients -to a glass jar with a lid. Paste a band of strong white paper round the -lower part of the lid. Set it in a dry cool place, and leave it -undisturbed for three months. Then, through a funnel, pour off the -liquid into small bottles, putting a tea-spoonful of salad oil at the -top of each. Cork and seal them. - - -CUCUMBER CATCHUP.--For a small quantity of this catchup, take twelve -fine full-grown cucumbers, and lay them an hour in cold water. Then pare -them, and grate them down into a deep dish. Grate also two small onions, -and mix them with the grated cucumber. Season the mixture to your taste -with pepper, salt, and vinegar, making it of the consistence of very -thick marmalade or jam. When thoroughly amalgamated, transfer it to a -glass jar. Cover it closely, tying over it a piece of bladder, so as to -render it perfectly air-tight. - -It will be found very nice, (when fresh cucumbers are not in season,) to -eat with beef or mutton. And if properly made, and securely covered, -will keep well. It should be grated very fine, and the vinegar must be -of very excellent quality--real cider vinegar. - - -CAMP CATCHUP.--Take a pint or quart of strong ale or porter, and a pint -of white wine; half a dozen shalots, or very small onions, peeled and -minced; half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmeg, broken up; and -two large roots or races of ginger, sliced. Put all together, over a -moderate fire, into a porcelain-lined kettle, and boil it slowly till -one-third of the liquid is wasted. Next day transfer it to small -bottles, putting a portion of the seasoning in the bottom of each, and -filling them to the top with the liquid. Finish with a tea-spoonful of -salad oil at the top. Cork the bottles with good corks, and seal them. -In a dry place this catchup will keep for years. - - -TARRAGON VINEGAR.--The fresh leaves of the tarragon plant are in -perfection in July and August, and impart a new and pleasant taste to -soups, hashes, gravies, &c. To use it fresh, wash a bunch of tarragon in -cold water. Afterwards strip off the green leaves, chop or mince them, -and boil a tea-spoonful or more in the dish you intend to flavor. The -best way of keeping tarragon is to strip off as many fresh leaves as -will half fill a glass jar that holds a quart. Pour on as much _real_ -cider vinegar as will fill up the jar. Cover it closely, and let the -tarragon infuse in it for a week, shaking the jar every day. Then pour -off that vinegar carefully, and throw away the tarragon leaves that have -been steeping in it. Wash that jar, or take another clean one, put into -it the same quantity of fresh tarragon leaves, and fill up with the same -vinegar in which you have infused the first supply. Let the second -leaves remain in the jar of vinegar. A tarragon bush is well worth -planting; even in a small city garden. - -Tarragon is the chief ingredient of French mustard. - - -FINE FRENCH MUSTARD.--Take a jill or two large wine-glasses of tarragon -vinegar, (strained from the leaves,) and mix with it an equal quantity -of salad oil, stirring them well together. Pound in a mortar, two ounces -of mustard seed till it becomes a fine smooth powder, and mix it -thoroughly. Add to it one clove of garlic (not more) peeled, minced and -pounded. Make the mixture in a deep white-ware dish. If the mustard -affects your eyes, put on glasses till you have finished the mixture. -When done, put it up in white bottles, or gallipots. Cork them tightly, -and seal the corks. Send it to table in those bottles. - -This mustard is far superior to any other, the tarragon imparting a -peculiar and pleasant flavor. - -It is excellent to eat with any sort of roast meat, particularly beef or -mutton, and an improvement to almost all plain sauces, stews, soups, &c. - -French mustard is to be purchased very good, at all the best grocery -stores. - - -SAUCE ROBERT.--Peel five large onions, and parboil them to take off some -of the strength. Cut them into small dice, and put them into a stew-pan -with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, divided into four, and -dredged with flour. When they are well browned, pour on them half a pint -of beef or veal gravy, and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour. -Season it slightly with cayenne. Just before it goes to table, stir in a -table-spoonful of French mustard. - -This is a good sauce for any sort of roast meat, or poultry. - - -GREEN MAYONNAISE.--This is a fine accompaniment to cold poultry, which -must be cut into small pieces as for chicken salad, using only the white -meat. To begin the mayonnaise. Put into a shallow pan the yolks only of -three fresh eggs, having strained out the specks. Having beaten them -till light and thick, add, by degrees, a half pint of salad oil, -stirring it in gradually, so that no oil whatever is to be seen on the -surface. Then add two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Next a few -drops of shalot vinegar, or a _very small_ onion minced as finely as -possible. If you have at hand any clear meat gravy (for instance, -veal,) stir in two or three table-spoonsful. Add the grated yellow rind, -and the juice of a lemon. Pound as much spinach as will yield a small -tea-cupful of green juice. Give it a short boil up, to take off the -rawness, and mix it with the mayonnaise. When cool, pour it over the -dish of cold poultry. - - -EPICUREAN SAUCE.--Pound in a mortar five or six anchovies; a heaped -table-spoonful of minced tarragon leaves; a shalot, or very small onion, -two or three pickled gherkins, finely minced; the yolks of four -hard-boiled eggs, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a large -table-spoonful of French mustard. If you have no good butter, mix a -sufficient portion of olive oil to moisten it well. Let the whole be -thoroughly mixed. Put it into a bowl, and set it on ice till wanted. -Then mould it into pats of equal size. Arrange them on small glass or -china plates, and send them to table for dinner company, to eat with the -cheese. - - -EAST INDIA SAUCE FOR FISH.--Mix well together a jill of India soy; a -jill of chili vinegar; half a pint of walnut catchup, and a pint of -mushroom-catchup. Shake the whole hard, and transfer it to small green -bottles, putting a tea-spoonful of sweet oil at the top of each, and -keep the sauce in a cool dry place. If you have not a fish castor, bring -the store sauces to table in the small bottles they are kept in. When -eating fish, mix a little of this with the melted butter on your plate. - - -CURRY POWDER.--Curry powder originates in India, where it is much used -as a peculiar flavoring for soups, stews, and hashes. With curry dishes, -boiled rice is always served up, not only in a separate dish, but also -heaped round the stew in a thick even border. To make curry powder, -pound in a marble mortar three ounces of turmeric, three ounces of -coriander seed, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne; one ounce of -mustard, one ounce of cardamoms, a half ounce of cummin seed, and half -an ounce of mace. Let all these ingredients be thoroughly mixed in the -mortar, and then sift it through a fine sieve, dry it for an hour before -the fire, and put it into clean bottles, securing the corks well. Use -from two to three table-spoonfuls at a time, in proportion to the size -of the dish you intend to curry. - -It may be mixed into the gravy of any of the preceding receipts for -stews. Two ounces of finely grated cocoa-nut is a pleasant improvement -to curried dishes, and is universally liked. - -The curry powder you buy is frequently much adulterated with inferior -articles. The best curry powder imported from India is of a dark green -color, and not yellow or red. It has among its ingredients, tamarinds, -_not_ preserved, as we always get them--but raw in the shell. These -tamarinds impart a pleasant acid to the mixture. For want of them use a -lemon. - - -MADRAS CURRY POWDER.--Pound separately, and sift, six ounces of -coriander seed, three of turmeric, one of black pepper, two of cummin, -one of fennel seed, and half an ounce of cayenne. Mix all together, put -them into a glass jar or bottle, and seal the cover. - -With less turmeric, you may use ginger or sassafras. - -Curry powder may be added to any stew of meat, poultry, or game. Boiled -rice must always accompany a dish of curry. - -The ingredients indispensable to all curries (and you may make a curry -of any nice meat, or poultry, or even of oysters) is a very pungent -powder, prepared for the purpose with turmeric. Also onions and boiled -rice. In India there is always something acid in the mixture, as lemons, -sour apple juice, or green tamarinds. The turmeric has a peculiar flavor -of its own. - - -STORE SAUCES.--The celebrated English sauces, for fish and game, -Harvey's sauce, (which is the best,) Quin's, Reading's, Kitchener's, -Soyer's, &c., are all very good, and keep well, if genuine. They are -imported in small sealed bottles, and are to be had of all the best -grocers. To make them at home, is so troublesome and expensive, that it -is better to buy them. They are, however, very nice, and are generally -introduced at dinner parties; a little being mixed on your plate with -the melted butter. If you have no fish castors, bring these sauces to -table in their own bottles, to be carried round by a servant. - - -FINE PINK SAUCE.--Take a pint of excellent port wine, the juice and -grated yellow rinds of four large lemons, two dozen blades of mace and a -large nutmeg, broken up; with a quarter of an ounce of prepared -cochineal, or a small tea-spoonful of alkanet chips. Add a -table-spoonful of fresh salad oil. Mix the whole well in a wide-mouthed -glass jar with a lid. Let the ingredients infuse a fortnight; stirring -it several times a day. Then strain it, pour it through a funnel into -small bottles, and seal the corks. It will give a fine pink color to -drawn butter. Eat it with any sort of fish or game. - -Alkanet produces a much finer color than cochineal, but it must unite -with some substance of an oily nature to give out its color to -advantage. It is very cheap, and very beautiful, and to be had at the -druggist's. Infuse it tied in a thin muslin bag. - - -WINE SAUCE FOR VENISON OR GAME.--Take the half of a sixpenny loaf of -bread. Cut off all the crust. Put the crumb (or soft part) into a bowl, -and pour on sufficient good port wine to steep it. Soak the bread in the -wine till dissolved. Then add two heaped table-spoonsful of fresh -butter, and two heaped spoonsful of sugar; seasoning with powdered mace -and nutmeg, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon. Beat all -together till very smooth. Put it into a sauce-pan, and give it one boil -up; taking it off as soon as it comes to a boil. Send it to table hot. -It is a fine company sauce for venison, or hare, or any sort of game. - - -FINE PUDDING SAUCE.--Take a large half-pint cup of the best fresh -butter, and the same quantity of powdered loaf-sugar. Put them together -in an earthen pan, and beat them to a light thick cream. Then mix a jill -or wine-glass of boiling water, and a large wine-glass of the best -brandy, with the grated yellow rind and juice of a large lemon or -orange; and a small nutmeg, grated. Mix these ingredients, gradually, -with the beaten butter and sugar; and transfer the sauce to a small -tureen, putting a spoon or ladle into it. - -If designed for sauce to a plum-pudding or any other large one, you will -require a pint of butter, a pint of sugar, half a pint of boiling water -with half a pint of brandy, two lemons or oranges, and a _large_ nutmeg, -or two small ones. Divide the sauce in two tureens. A boiled pudding for -company requires no finer sauce than this. - -Where _real_ cream is plenty, a bowl of it well sweetened with sugar, -and flavored with nutmeg, is nice for any boiled pudding. If you add -wine or lemon juice to cream sauce, previously mix the acid with the -sugar, and make it very sweet before you put them to the cream, lest it -should curdle. - - -VANILLA SAUCE.--Split and break up a small stick of vanilla, and boil it -in a very little milk, till all the vanilla flavor is extracted. Then -strain it through very fine muslin, and stir it into the cream. Give it -one boil up in a small porcelain sauce-pan; and sweeten it well with -white sugar. - - -PLAIN SAUCE FOR PUDDING.--Stir together (as in making pound cake) equal -quantities of fresh butter and white sugar. This is the usual -proportion; but if you can stir or beat it easily, try a little less -butter, and a little more of the sugar. Grate in some nutmeg, and the -yellow rind of a fresh lemon, and send it to table heaped on a small -plate, with a tea-spoon near it.[E] - - [E] The butter and sugar sauce is very nice flavored and colored with - the juice of strawberries or raspberries. - -Many persons prefer, with plain puddings, cold butter on a butter plate, -and sugar from the sugar-bowl; mixing it for themselves on their own -plate. This is best for boiled fruit pudding or dumplings; and for egg -or batter puddings, molasses or syrup is very good; and costs but -little. - - -CRANBERRY SAUCE.--Pick the cranberries clean, seeing that no stems, -sticks, or dead leaves are left among them. Put them into a cullender, -or sieve, and wash them through two waters. Cook them in a -porcelain-lined, or enameled stew-pan, without any additional water. The -water that remains about them after washing is quite sufficient for -stewing them properly. No stewed fruit should be too thin or liquid. -Keep a steady heat under the cranberries, stirring them up from the -bottom frequently: and when they are soft, mash them with the back of -the spoon. When they are quite shapeless, take them off the fire, and -while they are very hot, stir in, gradually, an ample quantity of nice -_brown_ sugar. They require much sweetening. Season them with nothing -else. Their natural flavor is sufficient (if well sweetened) and cannot -be improved by spice, lemon, or any of the usual condiments. Always buy -the largest and ripest cranberries. The best things are cheapest in the -end. - -In stewing any sort of fruit, do not add the sugar till the fruit is -done, and taken from the fire. If sweetened at the beginning, much of -the strength of the sugar evaporates in cooking; besides rendering the -fruit tough and hard, and retarding the progress of the stew. - -In America, sweet sauce is eaten with any sort of roast meat. Send it to -table cold. For company, put it into a blanc-mange mould, and turn it -out in a shape, first dipping the mould, for a minute, in warm water to -loosen it. - - -APPLE SAUCE.--Get fine juicy apples--bellflowers are the best for -cooking. Sweet apples cook very badly--becoming tough, dry and -tasteless. Green apples, if full grown, cook well, and have a pleasant -acid. - -For sauce, pare, core, and quarter or slice the apples. Wash the pieces -in a cullender, and put them to stew, with only water enough to wet them -a little. Apple stews that are thin and watery are disgraceful to the -cook, or to the cook's mistress. Let them stew till you can mash them -easily all through. Then take them off the fire, and sweeten them, -adding the seasoning while the apples are warm. Season with rose-water, -lemon juice, nutmeg; or with all these if for company. If you can get -fresh lemon-peel, cut it into very thin slips, and put it in to stew -with the apples at first. It is still better, and little more trouble, -to grate the lemon-peel. - -Fruit for pies should be stewed in the same manner as for sauce, and not -sweetened till taken from the fire. Let the paste be baked empty in -large deep plates, and when cool, filled to the brim with stewed fruit. -A pie, (as we have seen them,) only half or one third full, looks very -meanly--and tastes so. - -All these fruit-sauces are good receipts for stewing fruit for pies or -any other purpose. - -We advise all families to have, among their kitchen utensils, _bain -maries_, or double-kettles, putting the article to be stewed in the -inner kettle, and the boiling water in the outside one. They are to be -had of all sizes at the furnishing stores. They are also excellent for -custards and boiled puddings. - - -BAKED APPLE SAUCE.--Core very nicely as many fine juicy apples as will -fill a large baking-pan. All coring of apples should be done with a tin -cover. This you can buy at a tinman's for a quarter dollar, and it is -invaluable for the purpose. After coring the apples, pare them smooth -and evenly. Put a large table-spoonful of cold water in the bottom of -the baking-pan, and then put in the apples first, filling, with fine -brown sugar, the hole from whence the core was taken out. To have them -very nice, add some grated lemon-peel, or some rose-water. Set the pan -into an oven, (not too hot,) close the oven, and bake till the apples -are all broken and can be easily mashed. This way of making apple sauce, -by baking in a close oven, will be found far superior to boiling or -stewing them. They require no more water than is barely sufficient to -give them a start at the bottom. - -The flavoring (sugar, lemon, or rose,) may be deferred till the apples -are baked, taken out of the oven and mashed. Then mix it in while hot. - -Boiled apple sauce is usually spoiled with too much water, rendering it -the consistence of thin pap, weak, washy, and mean. - - -GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.--Get fine full-grown green gooseberries. Pick them -over, and top and tail them. Wash them in a cullender or sieve through -two waters. Put them into an enameled stew-pan, with only the water -remaining on them after washing, and no sugar till after they are stewed -to a mash, and taken from the fire. Then while hot, stir in brown sugar -enough to make them very sweet. Serve them up cold. For company, before -they are sweetened, press them through a sieve, using only the pulp. -Then add the sugar; and mould the whole in a form. - - -CURRANT SAUCE.--Take fine ripe currants, and strip them from the stems. -Put them into a pan, and mash them with a large spoon, or a wooden -beetle. Stew them in their own juice (no water,) and sweeten them when -they are taken from the fire. For company, press the fruit through a -sieve before you add the sugar, and shape it in a mould. - -It will answer every purpose of regular currant jelly, to eat with game, -venison, &c. - - -RIPE PEACH SAUCE.--Take juicy freestone peaches; pare and stone them, -and cut them up. Save all the juice, and stew them in it. When quite -soft, take them off the fire, and sweeten them. The flavor will be much -improved by stewing with them a bunch of fresh peach leaves, to be taken -out when the peaches are done. Or, if you cannot readily obtain the -leaves, a handful of the fresh peach kernels, stewed with the fruit, -(and to be taken out afterwards,) will answer the purpose. - -It is well, even in the sunny side of a city garden, to plant two peach -stones; so that when they grow into trees, you may have peach leaves at -hand for improving the flavor of custards, and other things. Unless the -trees are perfectly healthy, and the leaves green, do not use them. - - -DRIED PEACH SAUCE.--The richest and best dried peaches, are those that -are dried with the skins on. The skins (however thick,) entirely -dissolve in cooking, and become imperceptible when the fruit is well -stewed. It is a great error to pare peaches for drying. Apples _must_ be -pared, for the skin is tougher than that of peaches, and does not -dissolve in cooking. - -To prepare dried peaches for stewing, pick them over carefully, throwing -away all the imperfect pieces. Wash them in two cold waters, and then -put them into a stew-pan, (_adding no water_,) and stew them till they -are quite soft, and shapeless, and mash easily and smoothly in the pan. -Sweeten them with plenty of brown sugar, as soon as they come off the -fire. - - -DRIED APPLE SAUCE.--Wash the dried apples through a cullender, and put -_a very little water_ with them in the stew-pan. Being rather insipid, -they require some additional flavor. Add cinnamon, or other spice of -any sort you like, and the yellow rind of a fresh lemon or orange, pared -very thin and cut into slips. When these apples are well stewed and -mashed, sweeten them. - -We believe, that when dried peaches can be procured, few will buy dried -apples; they are so far inferior; being the poorest of dried fruit. - -Dried cherries also are scarcely worth cooking, even if they _have_ been -stoned. Being tough and indigestible, they are very unwholesome, except -for rough, hard-working people. If the stones are left in, dried -cherries are fit for nothing. - - -DAMSON SAUCE.--Having stewed the damsons in their own juice, till all -the stones slip out, (and can be easily removed with a spoon, when taken -from the fire,) make them very sweet by stirring in a large portion of -brown sugar. - -Damsons, cranberries, and gooseberries require more sugar than any other -fruit. - - -FINE PRUNE SAUCE.--Wash a pound of prunes, and stew them in orange -juice, adding the yellow rind of an orange, pared so fine as to be -transparent--or grate it. Stir them up frequently, and when quite done, -and the stones are all loose, sweeten the prunes with plenty of sugar. - -Prune sauce is eaten with venison, or any sort of game; or with roast -kid or fawn--or with roast pig. - - -CHESTNUT SAUCE.--Take the large Spanish chestnuts. Cut a slit in the -side of each, and roast them well. Peel them, and put them into a -saucepan of very rich melted butter. If you use American chestnuts, boil -them till quite soft, (trying two or three to ascertain,) then peel, and -thicken your melted butter with them. American chestnuts are too small -to roast. - - -PEA-NUT SAUCE.--Having roasted and shelled a pint of pea-nuts, or -ground-nuts, remove the thin brown skin, and simmer the nuts in melted -or drawn butter; adding some fine fresh oysters, omitting the gristle. - - - - -VEGETABLES. - - -All vegetables are best when fresh, as can easily be discovered by the -difference between those newly brought from the garden, and those that -have been kept in a provision shop till next day, (and perhaps longer,) -imbibing the atmosphere of meat, fish, poultry, and a variety of things, -each becoming impure from the same causes; not to mention the rats, -mice, and insects which run over them at night. You cannot have -vegetables in perfection without a country garden. But if obliged to -depend upon the market or the provision shops, always have your -vegetables washed and laid in cold water before cooking. Some are best -when put on to boil in cold water; others require boiling water at the -beginning, to give them what the cooks call a quick start. All should be -thoroughly done throughout. If hard in the centre they are unpalatable, -and very unwholesome; even worse than underdone meat. Use but very -little salt in cooking vegetables; too much renders them hard, and -overpowers their real taste. Also, it is easy for the lovers of salt to -add more when at table. When vegetables are done, and taken out the pot, -drain them well through a cullender or sieve, carefully pressing out all -the water that is about them. There is generally, in our country, too -much water allowed to the vegetables. Merely enough to cover them well, -and keep them from burning, is in most cases sufficient. In France, so -little water is used in cooking vegetables, that they are rather stewed -than boiled, and are the better for it. A puddle of greasy water in the -bottom of every vegetable dish is a disgusting sight; and yet how -frequently it is seen. If of every-day occurrence, it is a certain -indication of a bad cook, or an inefficient mistress, or both. - -Almost all green vegetables should be thrown into fast-boiling water, -and cooked rapidly; first washing them carefully, and laying them for -half an hour in a large pan of cold water. If found frozen in the -winter, be sure to thaw them in cold water. Continue the boiling till -they are thoroughly done, and with a steady heat, taking off the scum -as it rises. - -It is very usual in the spring to bring early vegetables from the south, -for the markets of Philadelphia and New York. By the time they reach us -they are faded, withered, tough and unwholesome. It is better to wait a -week or two longer till the season is a little more advanced, and the -farms and gardens of our neighborhood can supply our own markets, at a -far less cost, and with fresher and better vegetables. - -The water in which vegetables have been boiled becomes very unwholesome, -and should be thrown out immediately. - - -BOILED POTATOS.--To have boiled potatos in perfection they should all be -of a good sort and as nearly as possible of the same size. Till it is -time to cook them, let the slight mould or earth that has adhered to the -potatos in digging, be carefully washed off, even scrubbing them with a -hard brush. This can be done very conveniently, by laying them under the -hydrant or pump, washing them there with a broom, and letting the water -run on them. - -An iron pot is the best of all things for boiling potatos, as it retains -the heat longer than any other utensil. Lay them in it, closely and -compactly, and pour in barely sufficient cold water to cover them well, -adding a tea-spoonful of salt. Simmer them till nearly done, which you -may ascertain by probing all through with a fork. You may quicken the -fire for the last five minutes. Pour off all the water from them as soon -as they are tender all through. Lift the lid of the pot at one side to -allow the steam to pass off, and set them beside the fire, or on a -trevet far above it, till the moisture has escaped; the potatos will -then be dry and mealy. Then peel them; or if preferred, send them to -table with the skin on, which will keep them hot longer. - -If the potatos are old, cut a piece of skin (about the size of a -sixpence) from the top and bottom before boiling; or, take off a long -slip from each side. In the spring, when quite old, cut out all the -blemishes, pare the potatos, and always boil them for mashing. - - -ROAST POTATOS.--Potatos for roasting should always be large and fine. If -small, "they go all to skin." Select those that are nearest of a size, -and wash them very clean, and wipe every one with a cloth. Put them into -an oven, and let them roast or bake for more than two hours, turning -them with a fork. Dish them in the skins, and send only cold butter to -table with them. Bake sweet potatos in the same manner, but much longer. -Small sweet potatos should be boiled; as, when small, they are not worth -cooking in any other way; and when roasted there is scarcely any thing -of them, but tough shriveled skin. - - -BAKED POTATOS.--Pare some fine potatos all about the same size, and -cover with them the whole bottom of a large deep earthen dish; lay them -close together so that they all touch. Bake them under a nice piece of -beef, veal, or pork, raised above them on a trivet. The gravy from the -meat will drip upon them as soon as it begins to bake. They must bake -till they are nicely browned, and till a fork will easily go through -them. Have a smaller dish of potatos baked without meat, in a dish by -themselves, as potatos pared before baking are much liked. Lay some bits -of fresh butter among those that are cooked without any meat. - - -TO BOIL NEW POTATOS.--Rub each one with a coarse cloth to clear off the -skin, it being too thin for paring. Wash them well, and cut a small -piece off the top and bottom of each potato, to make them boil tender -all through. Put no salt in the water, and boil them till soft. Serve -them plain, and eat them with cold butter--or, put them into a -sauce-pan, and stew them in butter. - - -MASHED POTATOS.--Having boiled the potatos till tender all through, -drain them very dry in a cullender, and mash them smoothly with a potato -beetle, a large wooden spoon, or a short-handled wooden ladle. When all -are nicely mashed, add gradually plenty of fresh butter, and some cream -or rich milk. On no account spoil the potatos by putting any water to -them, when mashing. Put them into a deep dish or mould, and brown them -with a salamander. - - -POTATO CAKES.--After the mashed potatos are mixed with butter in a deep -earthen pan, beat them with a wooden spoon to render them very light. -Then make them up into thick flat cakes, about the size of a muffin, and -brown each with a salamander. - - -COUNTRY POTATOS.--Having boiled and peeled some fine newly-dug potatos, -melt some butter in a sauce-pan, with cream, instead of flour and water, -and pour it plentifully into the dish of potatos; seasoning with black -pepper and sweet marjoram leaves. Where cream is plenty, this is a very -nice way of cooking. Serve them up with the sauce poured over them, and -around them. They must be well boiled, and tender all through. - - -FRIED POTATOS.--The potatos must be raw, large, unblemished, and of a -good round shape. First take off a thin paring of the skin. Then, pare -the whole potato round and round, (not too thin,) till you have gone -through it all, and nothing is left unpared but a little lump in the -centre. Then put these continuous rings of potato into a frying-pan, in -which is boiling plenty of fresh butter, or butter and lard mixed. Fry -them brown and tender, and arrange them handsomely in a dish for -breakfast. - -_Another Way._--Slice thin a sufficiency of fine raw potatos, and lay -them in a pan of cold water to soak for an hour or more. Then pour off -that water entirely, and replace it with fresh. Let them remain in this -for another hour, or till it is time to cook them. Put them into a -frying-pan that has in it plenty of fresh butter or lard, enough, while -frying, to keep the potatos near the surface. Fry them till perfectly -well done and tender. - -Attempting to re-cook cold potatos renders them more hard and tough. - -When once cold, potatos always remain indigestible, cook them as you -will. - - -STEWED POTATOS.--Having pared some fine raw potatos, quarter them, and -put them into a stew-pan with a little salt, pepper, and some green -sweet marjoram stripped from the stalks, and scattered among the -potatos. Put them into a stew-pan with milk enough to prevent their -burning, and some fresh butter--no water. If you can get cream -conveniently, add some to the milk. Cover the pan, and let the potatos -stew, till, on trying them with a fork, you find them thoroughly cooked, -and soft and tender all through. If not sufficiently done, they are -hard, tough, leathery, and unfit to eat. - -They are very good stewed entirely in the dripping of cold gravy of -roast beef, veal, or pork--but not mutton, as that will give them the -taste of tallow. This is a nice breakfast dish. Cold potatos re-cooked -never again become good. After potatos once become cold, no cooking can -restore them. - - -STEWED SWEET POTATOS.--These should first be scraped or pared. Then cut -into pieces, and stewed as above. - - -BOILED CABBAGE.--All cabbage should be well washed, and boiled in a -large quantity of water with a little salt; the loose or faded leaves -being stripped from the outside. They should always be cut or split in -two, or in four pieces if very large. Cut the stalk short, and split it -up to where the leaves begin. Put it on in boiling water, and keep it -boiling steadily till quite done, which will not be till the stalk is -tender throughout. If a young summer cabbage, split it in half, and when -well boiled, and drained and pressed in a cullender, serve it up with a -few bits of cold fresh butter, laid inside among the leaves. Season it -with pepper. This is a much nicer and easier way, than to make drawn -butter, and pour over the outside of the cabbage. - -Sprouts and very young greens, require nothing more than to be well -washed, boiled and drained. In the country, cabbage sprouts are commonly -boiled with bacon. - -Savoy cabbage is considered the finest sort. It is a late autumn and -winter cabbage. If very large, split it in four. Do not boil it with -meat. The fat will render it strong and unwholesome. Still worse, when -melted butter is added to a cabbage already saturated with the fat of -corned beef. - - -AN EXCELLENT WAY OF BOILING CABBAGE.--Having trimmed the cabbage, and -washed it well in cold water, (examining the leaves to see that no -insects are lurking among them,) cut it almost into quarters, but do not -divide it entirely down at the stem, which should be cut off just below -the termination of the leaves. Let it lie an hour in a pan of cold -water. Have ready a pot _full_ of boiling water, seasoned with a small -tea-spoonful of salt. Put the cabbage into it, and let it boil for an -hour and a half, skimming it occasionally. Then take it out; put it into -a cullender to drain, and when all the hot water has drained off; set it -under the hydrant. Let the hydrant run on it, till the cabbage has -become perfectly cold all through. If you have no hydrant, set it under -a pump, or keep pouring cold water on it from a pitcher. Then, having -thrown out all the first water, and washed the pot, fill it again, and -let the second water boil. During this time the cabbage under the -hydrant will be growing cold. Then put it on again in the second water, -and boil it two hours, or two and a half. Even the thickest part of the -stalk must be perfectly tender all through. When thoroughly done, take -up the cabbage, drain it well through the cullender, pressing it down -with a broad ladle to squeeze out all the moisture; lay it in a deep -dish, and cut it _entirely_ apart, dividing it into quarters. Lay some -bits of fresh butter among the leaves, add a little pepper, cover the -dish, and send it to table hot. - -Cooked in this manner it will be made perfectly wholesome, and the -usually unpleasant cabbage smell will be rendered imperceptible. We -recommend it highly. - - -CALE CANNON.--Boil in one pot a fine large cabbage, and when done, drain -and press it in a cullender till all the water is squeezed out. Have -boiled in another, four or five large mealy potatos. Peel and mash the -potatos, and chop the cabbage small. Mix the cabbage and the potatos -evenly, in one large dish, and season them with black pepper; adding -some bits of nice butter. Cale cannon is a plain family dish, but is -very good, when all the dinner corresponds. - - -FRIED CABBAGE.--Parboil a fine cabbage. When half-boiled, take it out, -drain it, and lay it awhile in cold water, to remove the cabbage smell. -Next put it into a clean pot of fresh water, and boil it again till -thoroughly done. Afterwards, chop it small, season it with pepper and -salt, and fry it in fresh butter. - -A less delicate way is to fry it in boiling lard, taking care to drain -it well. It should be eaten only by people in good health. - - -FORCED CABBAGE--(_Choux farcie._)--This is for dinner company. Take two -fine fresh cabbages, and examine them well to see that there are no -insects hidden among the leaves. Wash the cabbages in cold water, and -drain them. Take out the heart or inside cluster of leaves in the centre -of each cabbage, leaving a circle of them standing. Cut off the stalk -near the bottom, but not so close as to cause the cabbage to fall apart. -You may leave a double circle of leaves. Have ready plenty of stuffing, -or forcemeat, made of veal or fresh pork minced finely, cold ham or -smoked tongue minced also, grated bread-crumbs, fresh butter, powdered -mace, sweet marjoram and sweet basil, grated lemon-peel, and two -hard-boiled yolks of egg, crumbled fine. Fill the cabbages full with -this stuffing, and to keep them in shape, tie them firmly round in -several places, with strings of twine or bass. They must be tied in the -form of a round ball. Put them into a stew-pot, with water enough to -cover them well, and let them stew till thoroughly done. Take them up -immediately before they are wanted, and remove the strings that have -kept them in shape while cooking. Red cabbages may be done in this way. - - -FRENCH SOUR CROUT.--This may be made fresh every day, and has none of -the objections generally alleged against the German saur-kraut. Having -taken out the stalks or cores, split into quarters, four large -white-heart cabbages. Shred them fine with a cabbage-cutter. Wash them -well in two waters, and drain them in a cullender. Next lay the shred -cabbages in a large earthen pan, add a table-spoonful of salt, and a -pint of the best cider vinegar. Stir and toss the cabbage in this, and -let it steep for three hours. Then wash and drain it, and put it into a -large stew-pan, with half a pound of nice sweet butter, or a quarter of -a pound of lard. Season it with a little black pepper, and three -table-spoonfuls of French mustard, or a jill of tarragon vinegar. Cover -the whole with a buttered white paper, and stew it slowly for two hours -longer. Take off the paper, and send the sour crout to table in a -covered dish. - -You may lay on the top of the stew, a pound of sausage meat, or of -sausage cakes. Or a thin slice or two of cold ham. - - -DRESSING FOR SLAW.--Mix a small pint of real cider vinegar with four -large table-spoonfuls of nice fresh butter, divided into four bits, and -each bit rolled in flour; a tea-spoon of salt, and a salt-spoon of -cayenne. Being well stirred, and mixed thoroughly, boil this in a -porcelain-lined sauce-pan; and, as soon as it has come to a fast boil, -remove it from the fire, and stir in the beaten yolk of four eggs. Have -ready a nice fresh white cabbage, that has been washed, drained, and -cut, or shaved, into small shreds with a cabbage cutter. Lay the shred -cabbage in a deep dish or bowl, while you prepare the above dressing. -Having taken it from the fire, and stirred in, gradually, the beaten -yolk of egg, pour the dressing hot over the cabbage: mixing it all with -a large boxwood salad-spoon or fork. Set it out of doors to cool; or -cool it quickly on ice or snow. - -Or if preferred warm, place it on the top of a stove, and cover it -closely till wanted. It may be made of red cabbage. - -This slaw (either cold or warm) will be found very superior to all -others, if this receipt is exactly followed. - - -SALSIFY FRITTERS.--Having washed and scraped the salsify roots, and cut -off the extreme joints, stand them up and grate them. Beat three eggs -very light, and stir them gradually into a pint of milk, with sufficient -flour to make a stiff batter. Instead of grating the salsify you may cut -it into pieces, and boil it till quite soft, so that you can mash it -easily. Add a little pepper. Have ready over the fire a deep frying-pan -or skillet, with plenty of boiling lard. Put in a large spoonful of the -batter, and into the middle of each drop a spoonful of the mashed -salsify. Fry these fritters of a light brown on both sides, and take -them out with a perforated skimmer, draining off the lard through its -holes. - -You may fry the mashed salsify without the batter, taking large -spoonfuls, and dipping each in beaten egg first, and afterward twice -over in grated bread-crumbs, so as to resemble fried oysters. - -Or you may first boil the roots merely split in two, and then fry them -in fresh butter, or bake them brown in an oven. - - -SALSIFY OYSTERS.--Get some fine salsify roots, (called also -oyster-plant,) and wash and scrape them well. Boil them in sufficient -fresh oyster liquor to cover them well, and when they are soft take them -out, split them, and cut them into pieces about two inches long. Then -put them into a stew-pan, with the oyster liquor, some pieces of fresh -butter rolled in flour, and some blades of mace and some grated nutmeg, -with a few whole pepper-corns. Let them cook between five and ten -minutes, having stirred among them the beaten yolks of two or three -eggs. Serve them up hot, as a side dish. - - -MELONGINA OR EGG-PLANT.--Take a large fine egg-plant, and see that there -are no blemishes about it. Having cut it into thin round slices, -(without paring off the skin,) sprinkle between the slices a very little -salt and pepper, cover them with a plate, and let them rest an hour -more. Then wipe the pieces dry. Have some beaten egg in one deep plate, -and some bread-crumbs, finely grated, in another. Dip each slice of -egg-plant first into the beaten egg, and then into the bread-crumbs, and -fry them brown in a pan full of boiling lard, or else lard and fresh -butter mixed in equal quantities. Take them out with a perforated -skimmer, and drain them well. - -They will be much better if each slice is dipped _twice_ in the egg, and -twice in the crumbs. - -They may be fried very plainly, simply dredged with flour, and then put -into a pan with plenty of boiling lard, the lard drained well from each -slice when it is done. They should be fried brown on both sides. If -underdone, and left greenish or whitish, they have a raw bitter taste. - - -BAKED EGG-PLANTS.--Prepare several fine large unblemished egg-plants, by -scooping out the inside or pulp with a spoon, leaving the rind standing. -To do this you must cut off very nicely and evenly a round piece from -the top, (afterwards to be tied on again.) Make a sufficient quantity of -forcemeat or stuffing of soaked bread, pressed and dried slightly; fresh -butter; minced sweet marjoram leaves; a little pepper and salt; and some -powdered mace, and the yellow rind of a lemon grated off very fine. Mix -all these with the pulp or inside of the egg-plant. When thoroughly -mixed, stuff with it the rind or outside into a perfectly round shape, -and with a packthread tie on the top-piece which was cut off. Put the -egg-plants into a dish, the bottom covered with thin slices of cold ham. -Bake them for an hour or more, and then send them to table whole, with -the slices of ham laid round on the dish. Remove the strings. - - -FRIED BANANAS.--The bananas should be perfectly ripe and yellow all -over. Peel them, split them into long slips, and dredge them slightly -with flour. Have ready a frying pan filled with boiling lard. Put in the -bananas, and fry them well. When done, take them up on a perforated -skimmer, and drain back the lard into the frying pan. Dish, and send -them to table with powdered sugar to eat with them. - -In the West Indies, the large green bananas that are exported from -thence, are by no means in favor, compared with a _very small_ yellow -sort, the only banana eaten at the best tables. The little ones are -fried in the above manner. - - -ONION CUSTARD.--Peel and slice ten or twelve mild onions, and fry them -in fresh butter, draining them well when you take them up. Then mince -them as fine as possible. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and -stir them gradually into a pint of milk, in turn with the minced onion. -Season the whole with plenty of grated nutmeg, and stir it very hard. -Then put it into a deep white dish, and bake it about a quarter of an -hour. Send it to table as a side dish, to be eaten with poultry. It is a -French preparation, and will be found very nice, by those who have no -dislike to onions. - - -CAULIFLOWERS.--Choose large fine white cauliflowers. Wash them well, and -lay them in a pan of cold water, having divided each cauliflower into -quarters. Trim off the outside green leaves. Put on the cauliflowers in -boiling water with a little salt in it. It is still better to boil them -in milk. Let them cook till tender throughout, flower and stalk. When -quite done, put some bits of fresh butter among the flowers, or pour -over them drawn butter sauce, made with milk and seasoned with powdered -nutmeg or mace. Serve them up hot, and covered. - - -BROCCOLI--Is drest in the same manner. It is very good with toast under, -though inferior to cauliflower. - - -CAULIFLOWER OMELET.--Take the white part of a boiled cauliflower after -it is cold; chop it very small, and mix with it a sufficient quantity of -well beaten-egg, to make a very thick batter. Then fry it in fresh -butter in a small pan, and send it hot to table. - - -FRIED CAULIFLOWER.--Having laid a fine cauliflower in cold water for an -hour, put it into a pot of boiling water that has been slightly salted, -(milk and water will be still better,) and boil it twenty-five minutes, -or till the large stalk is perfectly tender. Then divide it, equally, -into small tufts, and spread it on a dish to cool. Prepare a sufficient -quantity of batter made in the proportion of a table-spoonful of flour, -and two table-spoonfuls of milk to each egg. Beat the eggs very light, -then stir into them the flour and milk alternately; a spoonful of flour, -and two spoonfuls of milk at a time. When the cauliflower is cold, have -ready some fresh butter in a frying-pan over a clear fire. When it has -come to a boil and has done bubbling, dip each tuft of cauliflower twice -into the pan of batter, and fry them a light brown. Send them to table -hot. - -Broccoli may be fried in this manner. - - -CAULIFLOWER MACCARONI.--Having removed the outside leaves, and cut off -the stalk, wash the cauliflower, and examine it thoroughly to see if -there are any insects about it. Next lay it for an hour in a pan of cold -water. Then put it into a pot of boiling milk and water that has had a -little fresh butter melted in it. Whatever scum may float on the top of -the water must be removed before the cauliflower goes in. Boil it -steadily half an hour, or till it is quite tender. Then take it out, -drain it, and cut it into short sprigs. Have ready three ounces of -rich, but not strong cheese, grated fine. Put into a stew-pan a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter, nearly half of the grated cheese, two large -table-spoonfuls of cream or rich milk, and a very little salt and -cayenne. Toss or shake it over the fire till it is well mixed and has -come to a boil. Then add the tufts of cauliflower, and let the whole -stew together about five minutes. When done put it into a deep dish, -strew over the top the remaining half of the grated cheese, and brown it -with a salamander or a red-hot shovel held above the surface. - -This will be found very superior to real maccaroni. It is a company -dish. - - -BROCCOLI AND EGGS.--Take several heads of broccoli and cut the stalks -short, paring off from the stalks the tough outside skin. Trim off the -small outside shoots or blossoms, and tie them together in bunches. -After all the broccoli has been washed, and lain half an hour or more in -a pan of fresh cold water, put the large heads, with a salt-spoonful of -salt, into a pot of boiling water, and let them boil till thoroughly -done, and the stalk perfectly tender. When the large heads have boiled -about a quarter of an hour, put in the small tufts, which of course -require less time to cook. In the meanwhile have ready six beaten eggs. -Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a sauce-pan, and stir it over -the fire till it is all melted; then add gradually the beaten eggs, and -stir the mixture, or shake it over the fire till it becomes very thick. -Toast sufficient bread to cover entirely the bottom of a deep dish, -cutting it to fit exactly, having removed the crust. Dip the toast for a -minute in hot water. Pour the egg and butter over the hot toast. Then -place upon it the broccoli; the largest and finest head in the middle, -the lesser ones round it, and having untied the small sprigs, lay them -in a circle close to the edge. - - -FRIED CELERY.--Take fine large celery, cut it into pieces three or four -inches in length, and boil it tender, having seasoned the water with a -very little salt. Then drain the pieces well, and lay them, separately, -to cool on a large dish. Make a batter in the proportion of three -well-beaten eggs stirred into a pint of rich milk, alternately with half -a pint of grated bread-crumbs, or of sifted flour. Beat the batter very -hard after it is all mixed. Put into a hot frying-pan a sufficiency of -fresh lard; melt it over the fire, and when it comes to a boil, dip each -piece of celery _twice_ into the batter, put them into the pan, and fry -them a light brown. When done, lay them to drain on an inverted sieve -with a broad pan placed beneath it. Then dish the fried celery, and send -it to table hot. - -Parsnips, and salsify, (or oyster plant) may be fried in butter -according to the above directions. Also the tops of asparagus cut off -from the stalk, and the white part or blossom of cauliflower. Cold -sweet potatos are very nice, peeled, cut into long slips, and fried in -this way. - - -FRIED ARTICHOKES.--The artichokes must be young and tender. Cut them -into quarters, remove the choke part, and strip off the leaves. Having -washed the artichokes well and laid them an hour in cold water, put them -into a pot of boiling water, and keep them boiling steadily for a long -time, till you find by trying them with a a fork that they are tender -all through. Then take them out immediately, and drain them. Have ready -a sufficiency of batter, made in the proportion of the yolk of one egg -to a large table-spoonful of milk, and a tea-spoonful of flour. The eggs -must be well beaten before they are mixed with the milk; then beat in -the flour a spoonful at a time. Have ready over the fire some fresh -butter, or lard, in a frying-pan. When it has boiled hard, dip the -artichokes into the butter, (each piece should be twice dipped,) and fry -them brown. Then drain them well, and send them to table hot. - -Parsnips may be fried as above. Salsify also. - -Another way of frying artichokes, parsnips, and salsify, is, after they -have been boiled tender, to dip each piece first in beaten yolk of egg, -(without milk or flour,) and then roll it in finely grated bread-crumbs. -Then put them into the pan and fry them in butter or lard, or a mixture -of both. - -In boiling artichokes, observe to take them out as soon as they are -tender. If they remain in the water after they are done, they turn -blackish and lose their flavor. - - -MUSHROOM OMELET.--Take some fresh-gathered mushrooms; remove the stalks, -and rub the flaps or heads very slightly with a little salt, mixed with -cayenne. Then stew the mushrooms in a small sauce-pan, with barely -sufficient cream or rich milk to cover them. Put in with them a small -onion; and if the onion is found to turn blackish, throw away the whole; -it being proof that there is among them a false or poisonous mushroom. -Stir them with a silver spoon, and keep on the lid of the pan closely, -unless when you are stirring. If the spoon turns black, the mushrooms -should not be eaten. - -After they have come to a boil, take them off the fire; drain them, and -when cool, chop them small. To a pint or more of the minced mushrooms, -allow six or seven eggs. Beat the eggs till very light and thick, -(omitting the whites of two,) and then mix in, gradually, the mushrooms, -stirring the whole very hard. Put three ounces of fresh butter into a -hot omelet pan, or a _small_ frying-pan; place it over the fire and stir -the butter as it melts. When it has boiled hard, put in the omelet -mixture, and as it fries, stir it till it begins to set. Do not turn the -omelet; but brown the top by holding close above it a red-hot shovel. -When done, drain off the butter, fold over or double the omelet, and -serve it up immediately on a hot dish. - -In gathering mushrooms, those that are fit to eat may be known by their -being of a pale pearl color, or of a grayish white, instead of what is -called a dead white; and the underside of the flap or head (if good) is -of a light pink, or a pinkish salmon color. The best mushrooms grow on -uplands, or in high open fields where the air is pure and good, and they -should be gathered early in the morning before the dew is off. All that -are found in low swampy ground, or in the woods, or under large trees, -are poisonous. - - -SCOLLOPED TOMATOS.--Take fine large tomatos, perfectly ripe. Scald them -to loosen the skins, and then peel them. Cover the bottom of a deep dish -thickly with grated bread-crumbs, adding a few bits of fresh butter. -Then put in a layer of tomatos, seasoned slightly with a little salt and -cayenne, and some powdered mace or nutmeg. Cover them with another layer -of bread-crumbs and butter; then another layer of seasoned tomatos; and -proceed thus until the dish is full, finishing at the top with -bread-crumbs. Set the dish into a moderate oven, and bake it near three -hours. Tomatos require long cooking, otherwise they will have a raw -taste, that to most persons is unpleasant. - - -ASPARAGUS OMELET.--Take two bunches of the largest and finest asparagus. -Put it into a pot of boiling water, with a salt-spoonful of salt, and -boil it about twenty-five minutes, or till perfectly tender. Then drain -it, and chop small all the green part. Beat four eggs very light, and -add to them a wine-glass of cream. Mix the chopped asparagus thoroughly -with the egg and cream, adding a salt-spoon of salt, and a very little -cayenne. Melt a large slice of fresh butter in a frying-pan over the -fire; and when it has boiled, and the bubbling has ceased, put in the -mixture, and fry it till light and firm. Then slip it from the -frying-pan to a hot dish, and fold it over. - -For a soft omelet, put the mixture into a skillet with a piece of fresh -butter. Let it stew slowly for ten minutes. Lay a thin slice of buttered -toast in the bottom of a hot dish, and cut the toast into small squares, -but let them remain close together. With a spoon heap the soft omelet -upon the toast, and serve it up. - -Any omelet mixture may be kept soft by stewing instead of frying it, and -it will be found more wholesome. - -Before buttering the toast dip it a minute in hot water. - - -STEWED PEAS.--Take young, tender, green peas, wash them, and put them -into a stew-pan, with sufficient fresh butter to keep them from burning, -_but no water_. Season them with a little black pepper, and a very -little salt. Set them over a moderate fire, and stir them about till the -butter is well mixed through them. Let them simmer till quite soft and -slightly broken; take off the lid occasionally, and give them a stir up -from the bottom. If you find them becoming too dry, add some more -butter. When done, drain off what superfluous butter may be about the -peas, and send them to table hot. They will be found excellent. - -To the taste of many persons, they will be improved by a lump or two of -loaf-sugar put in with the butter, and also by a few sprigs of mint, to -be removed before the peas go to table. - -Lima beans may be stewed in butter, as above; also, asparagus tops, cut -off from the white stalk. - - -LETTUCE PEAS.--Having washed four lettuces, and stripped off the outside -leaves, take their hearts, and (having chopped them well) put them into -a stew-pan with two quarts of young green peas, freshly shelled; a lump -or two of loaf-sugar; and three or four leaves of green mint minced as -finely as possible. Then put in four slices of cold ham, and a quarter -of a pound of butter divided into four bits, and rolled in flour; and -two table-spoonfuls of water. Add a little cayenne, and let the whole -stew for about twenty-five minutes, or till the peas are thoroughly -done. Next take out the ham, and add to the stew half a pint of cream. -Let it continue stewing five minutes longer. Then send it to table. - - -PLAIN LETTUCE PEAS.--Cover the bottom and sides of a stew-pan with large -fresh leaves taken from lettuces. Have ready the peas, which should be -young and green. To each quart of shelled peas allow two table-spoonfuls -of fresh butter, and a lump of loaf sugar. Add a very little pepper and -salt, and a sprig of green mint. Cover the pan closely, and let it stew -for half an hour, or till the peas are thoroughly done. Then take them -out from the lettuce leaves, and send only the peas to table. - - -TO STEW CARROTS.--Half-boil the carrots; then scrape them nicely, and -cut them into thick slices. Put them into a stew-pan with as much milk -as will barely cover them; a very little salt and pepper; and a sprig or -two of chopped parsley. Simmer them till they are perfectly tender. When -nearly done, add a piece of fresh butter rolled in flour. Send them to -table hot. Carrots require long cooking; longer than any other -vegetable. - -Parsnips and salsify may be stewed in the above manner, substituting a -little chopped celery for the parsley. - - -SPINACH.--Having peeled and washed the spinach very nicely, put it into -a _bain marie_, or inside kettle, without any water, and cover it -closely. Pour the water into the outside kettle, and you may hurry the -boiling by throwing a handful of salt in the outside tin, taking care -that none of the salt gets into the inside. When the spinach is well -stewed, take it up and drain it without squeezing or pressing, as that -will make it tough and dry. Then chop it small, and add some hard-boiled -eggs, also chopped. Season it with pepper and fresh butter, stir it well -together, return it to the kettle, and let it stew a quarter of an hour -or more. Serve it up with buttered toast and poached eggs laid upon it. - -Spinach being very watery, should always be _stewed_ rather than boiled. -If you have no _bain marie_, the water that remains about the spinach, -after it has been washed, will suffice to stew it slowly. - -Spinach juice, for coloring green, must be strained, and boiled -slightly. You can obtain plenty of juice by pounding the leaves. - - -TO PREPARE CUCUMBERS.--Let the cucumbers be full-grown, but not in the -least yellow or hard. They are then only fit to be saved for seed. Lay -the cucumbers in a pan of cold water for an hour or more, or till it is -nearly time to send them to table, being careful not to set them in the -sun. Have ready another pan of fresh water, (very cold) and having -pared the cucumbers, slice them into it. Transfer them to a deep china -or white-ware dish. Season them with vinegar, pepper, salt, and a little -salad oil, taking care not to use too much salt. When there is no -dislike to onions, peel and slice a few that are mild, and mix them with -the cucumbers. It is usual now, at the best tables, to have the onions -in a small separate dish, (sliced with vinegar and pepper) to be eaten -by those that like them, and omitted by those who do not. Onions, (and -also salad oil) are said to render cucumbers more wholesome. - -Tomatos (raw) are frequently sliced, seasoned, and sent to table in the -manner of cucumbers. Tomatos are always wholesome. - - -STEWED CUCUMBERS.--Pare six fine fresh cucumbers. Cut each of them -lengthways into four pieces; lay them for an hour in a pan of cold -water. Take a clean stew-pan, and place in its bottom two -table-spoonfuls of good fresh butter. Then put in the slices of -cucumber, and sprinkle them slightly with a very little pepper. Add two -table-spoonfuls of cold water. Set the pan over a moderate fire, and let -the cucumbers stew slowly for half an hour or more, till they are well -cooked. Keep the pan closely covered, except when you have to remove the -lid to stir the stew. Serve them up hot, at breakfast, or as a side -dish, at dinner. - -Persons who have no objection to the taste of onions, will think the -cucumbers improved by the addition of the half of a moderate sized -onion, sliced thin and stewed with them. - - -A NICE WAY OF COOKING ASPARAGUS.--Where asparagus is plenty, there is no -better way of cooking it than the following. Take it as nearly of a size -as possible, wash it, and cut off the stalks very short, leaving them -not more than half an inch in length. Two quarts of water will be -sufficient to boil one quart of asparagus tops; allow a tea-spoonful of -salt to this quantity of water, and set it over the fire to boil. When -the water is boiling hard, put in the asparagus, and boil it fast for at -least half an hour. To see if it is done, take up two or three of the -largest pieces and taste them. While it is boiling, prepare two slices -of bread cut half an inch thick, and (having removed the crust) toast -the bread brown on both sides. Have ready a large jill of melted (or -drawn) fresh butter. When the asparagus is done, take it up with a -perforated skimmer, and lay it on a sieve to drain. Dip the slices of -toast (one at a time) first in the hot asparagus liquor, and then in the -melted butter. Lay the slices, side by side, in a deep dish, and cover -it with the asparagus, laid evenly over and round the toast. Then add -the remainder of the drawn butter, and send the asparagus to table hot, -in a covered dish. - -This is a much nicer way than that of boiling and serving it up with the -long stalks left on. And where you have asparagus in abundance, (for -instance in a country garden,) it may always be cooked in this manner. - -This is from the receipt of Mr. N. Darling, of New Haven. - - -ASPARAGUS OYSTERS.--Take two bundles of fine full-grown asparagus. Cut -off the green tops or points as far down as the white stalk. Take a -sufficient quantity of fresh oysters, the finest you can get at that -season. Put the asparagus tops into a stew-pan, with enough of oyster -liquor (previously strained) to stew them quite tender. Stew the oysters -themselves in another pan with some more of their liquor, seasoned with -pepper, mace, and nutmeg, adding a large piece of fresh butter, divided -into four, and each part rolled in flour. Do not let the oysters stew -more than five minutes, or they will become tough and shriveled. When -they are merely plumped, take them out and cut them up small, omitting -the gristle or hard part. Set the mixture over the fire for about five -minutes, stirring all the time. Have ready some slices of nice toast, -with all the crust pared off; the slices dipped for a minute in hot -water. Butter the toast, and cover with it the bottom of a deep dish, -and fill it with the mixture of asparagus and oysters. - - -ONION EGGS.--Boil a dozen eggs quite hard. Slice and fry in fresh butter -five or six onions. Slice (whites and yolks together) ten of the eggs, -reserving two for the seasoning. Drain the sliced onions, and lay them -on a dish with the sliced eggs placed upon them. Cover the dish, and -keep it hot. Take the two remaining eggs, grate the yolks, and mix them -with cream and grated nutmeg, and a very little cayenne. Put this -mixture into a very small sauce-pan, give it one boil up, pour it over -the eggs and onions, and send it to table hot. For those who have no -objection to onions this is a nice side dish. - - -EGG BALLS.--Boil eight eggs till quite hard, and when done, throw them -directly into cold water. Then put the yolks into a mortar, and pound -them to a paste, moistening them as you proceed with the beaten yolks of -three _raw_ eggs, seasoned with as much salt as will lie _flat_ upon a -shilling, and a little cayenne, and powdered nutmeg and mace. Mix the -whole well together, and make it up into small round balls. Throw them -into mock-turtle soup, or into stewed terrapin, about two minutes before -you take it up. - - -CURRY BALLS.--Take a sufficiency of finely-grated bread-crumbs; -hard-boiled yolk of egg, grated; fresh butter, and a little curry -powder. Pound the whole in a mortar, moistening it with raw yolk of egg -(well-beaten) as you proceed. Make it into small balls, and add them to -stewed chicken or rabbit, about five minutes before you take it up. - - -TOMATO PASTE.--Scald and peel as many ripe tomatos as will fill a large, -deep, stone jar. Set them into a warm oven for an hour. Then skim off -the watery liquid that has risen to the top, and press and squeeze the -tomatos in a sieve. Afterwards add salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and -powdered nutmeg, to your taste; and to every quart of tomatos allow a -half a pint of cider vinegar. Stew the whole slowly in a porcelain -kettle for three hours, (stirring it frequently from the bottom,) till -it becomes a smooth, thick paste. Then put it into small jars or -glasses, and cover it closely, pasting paper over each. It is an -excellent sauce, at the season when fresh tomatos are not to be had, and -is very good to thicken soup. - - -DRIED OCHRAS.--Take fine large fresh ochras; cut them into thin, round -slices; string them on threads, and hang them up in festoons to dry in -the store-room. Before using, they must be soaked in water during -twenty-four hours. They will then be good (with the addition of tomato -paste) to boil in soup or gumbo. - - -BEEF GUMBO.--Put into a large stew-pan some pieces of the lean of fresh -beef, cut up into small bits, and seasoned with a little pepper and -salt. Add sliced ochras and tomatos, (either fresh or dried ochras and -tomato paste.) You may put in some sliced onions. Pour on water enough -to cover it well. Let it boil slowly, (skimming it well,) till -everything is reduced to rags. Then strain and press it through a -cullender. Have ready a sufficiency of toasted bread, cut into dice. Lay -it in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the strained gumbo upon it. - - -TO BOIL OCHRAS.--For boiling, the ochras should be young and small. Wash -them, and cut off a small piece from each end. Boil them till very -tender throughout. Then drain them well, and transfer them to a deep -dish. Lay among them some bits of fresh butter, and season them with -pepper. Cover the dish, that the butter may be warm and melt the sooner. -Or you may make a sauce of half a pint of milk boiled, and when it has -come to a boil enrich with a quarter of a pound of very good fresh -butter, divided into four pieces; each piece rolled in a little flour, -the butter stirred in gradually and smoothly, as soon as the milk is -taken off the fire. Pour this sauce over the dish of ochras, and keep it -covered till it has gone to table. - -We prefer the first way, putting the bit of butter cold into the hot -ochras, with either milk or flour, and letting the butter melt -gradually, in the manner of green beans. You may boil with them a small -piece of very good bacon, removing when the ochras are taken off the -fire. Season with pepper. - - -ONIONS.--The best onions for cooking are the white or silver-skinned. -The red-skinned are generally strong and coarse. Shalots are very small -and delicate. Some sorts of large onions are milder and nicer than those -of middle size, and some that are very small have a powerful taste and -smell. The outer skin of most onions should be peeled entirely, and the -ends cut off. All onions are the better for boiling, before they are -cooked for any other purpose. Put them into a stew-pan with cold water, -and when they have come to a boil pour off that water, and replace it -with fresh cold also. Boil them slowly till quite tender all through, -which will not be in less than half an hour; more, if they are large. -When done, drain them well, dish them, and pour over them some nice -melted butter. - -_To Stew Onions._--Peel, slice them, and stew them in milk, enriched -with butter rolled in flour, and seasoned with a little cayenne and a -few blades of mace. - -_To Roast Onions._--Select fine large onions; do not peel them, but -place them in a bake-pan, and set them in an oven. Bake them slowly till -tender all through. When done, peel off the outer skin, and send them -hot to table, to eat with pepper and cold butter. - -They are very good when covered up and roasted under hot ashes, taking -care that they are done quite through to the heart. - - -TO BOIL GREEN PEAS.--When the peas are shelled, wash them in a pan of -cold water. Put on the peas in cold water, (a little salted) and let -them boil very fast. If nice peas, they will generally be done in a -quarter of an hour after beginning to boil. When simmering, add to them -a lump or a spoonful of loaf-sugar, and a sprig of fresh green mint, -(half a dozen leaves) having first ascertained if mint is not disliked -by any person who is to eat of the peas. To some the taste and odor of -mint is very agreeable, to others very disgusting, as is the case with -onions, and many other things that are liked by the majority. - -When the peas are all soft or tender, take out the mint, drain the peas -through a cullender till not a drop of water is left among them; -transfer them to a deep dish, mix into them some of the best fresh -butter, and sprinkle them with pepper. Cover them immediately, and send -them to table hot. - - -STEWED PEAS.--Having prepared the peas as above, put them into a -stew-pan without any water. Mix among them plenty of bits of nice fresh -butter, sufficient to cook them. Let them stew slowly in the butter till -they are quite soft, stirring them up from the bottom frequently. Drain -and dish them. They will be found very fine--better than if boiled in -water. Peas should not be stewed this way, except in places where plenty -of good _fresh_ butter is to be easily obtained. - - -GREEN PEAS.--The largest and finest peas are what the English call -marrowfat. The sugar pea is next. All green peas for boiling should be -young and tender, but not so young as to be tasteless or insipid. As a -general rule, nearly every article of food is best when it has just -attained its full growth and ripeness; after that period the older it is -the worse. Peas, so old as to be hard and yellow, are unfit to eat. In -some ultra economical houses, good peas are things unknown. They are not -bought in spring or early summer while young and fresh, but are never -thought cheap enough till they become hard and yellow. Afterwards, when -they reach the cheap state, a quantity are bought low, and put into jars -not to be touched till next spring, when they are boiled, (with great -difficulty, for they never become soft,) and _attempted_ to be passed -off "as this year's fresh peas"--and by the time the family have gotten -through with _them_, "this year's young peas" have become old. Do not -believe (for it is untrue,) that any eatable can be kept in _all_ its -genuine freshness and original flavor, by merely secluding them -entirely from air. They will not spoil or decompose if skillfully -managed; but they _have not exactly_ their natural taste and -consistence. It is better for those who _never make pickles or -preserves_, to wait for fresh vegetables or fruit, till they are -actually in market--or, if put up in jars, to add something more than -parboiling and seclusion from the air. Vinegar, salt, sugar, spice and -alcohol, will be found the grand and universal articles for securing the -goodness of nearly all eatables. Without some of these along with them, -things that have not spoiled while secluded from air, will surely spoil -almost as soon as the jars are opened, and the external air admitted to -them. - - -GREEN OR STRING BEANS.--Take young and tender beans, the seeds just -forming in the pods. Take off the string with a knife, leaving no bits -of string adhering to the beans, either at top or bottom. Do not split -them. Cut each bean into three pieces, _not more_, and as you cut them -throw them into a pan of cold water, kept beside you for the purpose. -The old-fashioned way is now obsolete of cutting them into dice or -diamonds, or of splitting them. The more they are cut up (beside the -trouble and time wasted,) the more the water gets through them when -cooking; the more tasteless they become, and the more difficult they are -to drain. We have never met with beans that, when cut small, had not a -puddle of greasy water in the bottom of the dish, and sometimes the -water was all through the dish, and the beans floating in it. Shame on -such bean-cooking! When the beans are all ready for the pot, throw them -into boiling water very slightly salted, and they will generally be done -in half an hour after they have come to a boil. Transfer them to a -sieve; and press, and drain them well, till no water is left about them. -Then put them into a deep dish, mix them with fresh butter, and dredge -them with black pepper. - - -LIMA BEANS.--Shell the lima beans into a pan of cold water. Let them lie -in it an hour. Put them in boiling water, little more than enough to -cover them, and boil them till soft and tender. When done, drain and -serve them up in a deep dish, adding among them a good piece of butter. -The Lima beans now raised in North America have become coarse and white, -requiring a renewal of fresh stock or new seeds from Peru. They will -then be green and delicate again, as formerly. - - -SWEET POTATOS.--Choose the sweet potatos large, and nearly of the same -size, then you can either boil or roast them. When small they should -always be boiled; as, when baked or roasted, the skin becomes so thick -and hard, that it takes up nearly the whole potato. Wash them very -clean, and cut off a bit from each end. Put them into a large pot of -boiling water without salt, and boil them steadily for at least an -hour. Probe them with a narrow-bladed sharp knife, and if it does not -easily penetrate all through the largest potato, (in at one side and out -at the other) continue the boiling till all are soft throughout. Then -take them up, peel them, and keep them warm till sent to table. - -_To Bake Sweet Potatos_ they should all be large. Wash them, dry them, -and cut off the ends. Then bake them in an oven, lying side by side, not -piling one on another. Or else (which is better) roast them in hot -ashes. They will not be done in less than an hour and a half, perhaps -longer. Then wipe them clean, and serve them up in the skins. Eat them -from the skins, with cold butter and a tea-spoon. - -_To Stew Sweet Potatos._--Wash and wipe them. Then scrape off the skins -with a sharp knife. Split them, and cut them into long pieces. Stew them -with fresh pork, veal, or beef; first putting at the bottom a very -little butter or water to start them, and then the gravy of the meat -will suffice for cooking them--skimming it well. Water to stew should be -hot. - -_Mashed Sweet Potatos_ are very nice. When well boiled, mash them -smoothly with a potato beetle. Mix them with fresh butter, and then stir -them well, or beat them with a large wooden spoon to render them light. -Afterwards, you may make them into round thick cakes, and touch the -surface of every one with pepper--red or black. This is a breakfast dish -for company. - - -BOILED TURNIPS.--Have all your turnips nearly of the same size. Pare -them; and if large cut them in half. Put them into boiling water, very -slightly salted, and keep them closely covered. Twenty minutes will boil -them if very small and young; their flavor is then very fine. -Afterwards, according to their size, they will require of gentle -boiling, from three-quarters to a full hour. Keep them boiling till, on -trying them with a fork, you find them perfectly tender all through. -Then take them up, drain them well, and pour melted butter over them; -touch the top of each with a spot of black pepper. If very old and -spongy, they are only fit for the pig barrel. It is said that if boiled -in their skins, (though requiring a much longer time to cook well) they -have a fine flavor, and are less watery. You can try it. - -If the turnips are to be mashed, cut them into small pieces, boil them -very soft, and drain and squeeze them till all the water is pressed out. -Then mash them very smooth. Transfer them to a deep dish, and mix them -with a _moderate portion_ of fresh butter. Turnips are generally served -with too much butter. Season them with pepper. When sent to table take -care not to set them in a sunny place, as it will give them a bad taste. - -Turnips, baked in an oven, are very good--for a change. - - -SYDNEY SMITH'S SALAD-DRESSING.--Have ready two well-boiled potatos, -peeled and rubbed through a sieve; they will give peculiar smoothness -to the mixture. Also, a very small portion of raw onion, not more than a -_quarter_ of a tea-spoonful, (as the presence of the onion is to be -scarcely hinted,) and the pounded yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix -these ingredients on a deep plate with one tea-spoonful of salt, one of -made mustard, three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and one table-spoonful -of vinegar. Add, lastly, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy; mash, and -mix the whole together, (using a boxwood spoon) and see that all the -articles are thoroughly amalgamated. Having cut up a sufficiency of -lettuce, that has been well washed in cold water, and drained, add to it -the dressing immediately before dinner, mixing the lettuce through it -with a boxwood fork. - -This salad dressing was invented by the Rev. Sydney Smith, whose genius -as a writer and a wit is well known on both sides the Atlantic. If -_exactly_ followed, it will be found very fine on trial; no peculiar -flavor predominating, but excellent as a whole. The above directions are -taken from a manuscript receipt given by Mr. Smith to an American -gentleman then in London. - -In preparing this, or any other salad-dressing, take care not to use -that excessively pungent and deleterious combination of drugs which is -now so frequently imposed upon the public, as _the best white wine -vinegar_. In reality, it has no vinous material about it; and it may be -known by its violent and disagreeable sharpness, which overpowers and -destroys the taste (and also the substance) of whatever it is mixed -with. It is also very unwholesome. Its color is always pale, and it is -nearly as clear as water. No one should buy or use it. The first quality -of _real_ cider vinegar is good for all purposes. - -The above receipt may be tried for lobster dressing. - -A Spanish proverb says, that for compounding a _good_ salad, four -persons are required--a spend-thrift for oil; a miser for vinegar; a man -of judgment for salt; and a madman for stirring the dressing. - - -FINE CHICKEN SALAD.--Having skinned a pair of cold fowls, remove the -fat, and carve them as if for eating; cut all the flesh entirely from -the bones, and either mince it or divide it into small shreds. Mix with -it a little smoked tongue or cold ham, grated rather than chopped. Have -ready one or two fine fresh lettuces, picked, washed, drained, and cut -small. Put the cut lettuce on a dish, (spreading it evenly,) or into a -large bowl, and place upon it the minced chicken in a close heap in the -centre. For the dressing, mix together the following ingredients, in the -proportion of the yolks of four eggs well beaten, a tea-spoonful of -powdered white sugar, a salt-spoon of cayenne; (no salt if you have ham -or tongue with the chicken,) two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, six -table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and five of celery vinegar. Stir this -mixture well: put it into a small sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and -let it boil three minutes,(not more,) stirring it all the time. Then set -it to cool. When quite cold, cover with it thickly, the heap of chicken -in the centre of the salad. To ornament it, have ready half a dozen or -more, hard-boiled eggs, which, after the shell is peeled off, must be -thrown directly into a pan of cold water to prevent them from turning -blue. Cut each egg (white and yolk together) lengthways into four long -pieces of equal size and shape; lay the pieces upon the salad all round -the heap of chicken, and close to it; placing them so as to follow each -other round in a slanting direction, something in the form of a circular -wreath of leaves. Have ready, also, some very red cold beet, cut into -small cones or points all of equal size; arrange them in a circle upon -the lettuce, outside of the circle of cut egg. To be decorated in this -manner, the salad should be placed in a dish rather than a bowl. In -helping it, give each person a portion of every thing, and they will mix -them together on their plates. - -This salad should be prepared immediately before dinner or supper; as -standing long will injure it. The colder it is the better. - - -CARROTS.--Having washed the carrots, and scraped off the outer skin with -a sharp knife, or taken off a very thin paring, split them a few inches -down, leaving a long cleft in the upper half only, and put them on to -cook in plenty of boiling water, with a little salt in it. There is no -table vegetable that needs more boiling than a carrot. Small young -carrots require at least half an hour. If large, they must boil from one -to two hours, according to their size. When you find them tender -throughout, dish them, with melted butter poured round them. They are -eaten plain, only with boiled beef or boiled mutton. They are often -added to soups and stews, when they must be put in long before the other -vegetables. For soups and stews the nicest way is to grate them (before -boiling,) on a coarse grater. This way they improve both the taste and -color. - -Carrots are very nice, sliced thin after boiling, put into a sauce-pan, -with bits of butter dredged with flour, seasoned with pepper, and stewed -soft without any water. - - -PARSNIPS.--Scrape the parsnips, and split them half way down. Put them -into boiling water with a little salt. Parsnips require less boiling -than carrots; and, according to their size, will take from half an hour -to an hour. Skim the water while they are boiling. When quite tender -take them up, drain them, dish them, and pour melted butter over them. -They are especially eaten with corned pork, or salted cod; but are good -with various things. They are excellent stewed with fresh beef, or fresh -pork, for a plain dinner. - -_Fried Parsnips_ make a nice breakfast dish. They must first be -parboiled; then split, and cut into long pieces, and fried brown in -fresh butter, or in nice dripping of veal or beef. - -_Baked Parsnips._--Split and parboil them. Then place them in a large -dish. Lay among them some bits of fresh butter, and bake them brown. Eat -them with any sort of roast meat. - -_Parsnip Fritters._--Boil and peel half a dozen large parsnips, and then -split and cut them in pieces. Make a nice batter, allowing four beaten -eggs to a pint of milk, and four table-spoonfuls of flour. Have ready -over the fire, a frying-pan with boiling lard. Put in a large spoonful -of batter; upon that a piece of parsnip, and cover it with another -spoonful of batter. Proceed thus till you have used up the parsnips. -When done, drain them from the lard, and serve them hot at breakfast or -dinner. - - -BEETS.--Beets must be washed very clean, but not scraped, trimmed, or -cut till after they are boiled. Put them on in boiling water; and, -according to their size, boil them steadily from one hour and a half, to -two hours and a half, but they must not be probed (to ascertain if they -are tender all through,) but pinched with the fingers. Then peel off the -skins, and trim them neatly. Hold the beet in a pan of cold water while -you peel it. Do it quickly. Serve them up either split or sliced, with -melted butter poured over them, and seasoned with pepper. Or else they -may be sliced thick, (allowing them to get cold,) and spiced vinegar -poured over them. Red beets are usually dressed with vinegar; the white -or pale ones with melted butter. - -_Baked Beets_ have a finer flavor, and are more nutritious than when -boiled. Wash and wipe them dry, but do not skin or cut them till after -cooking. They must be thoroughly done before they are taken out of the -oven, and then pared and trimmed. According to their size they will -require from four to six hours baking. Their blood-red color makes them -ornamental to the table; but when cooked in soups or stews they add -little to the taste, which is overpowered by that of other ingredients. - - -SQUASHES OR CYMLINGS.--See that the squashes are not turning old, and -hardening. Wash them, and cut them into four pieces each; but do not -split them. Put them on in boiling water, with a little salt. Boil them -steadily till quite tender throughout. Then take them up, and mash or -drain them through a cullender, pressing them with a broad short-handled -wooden ladle. All the water (of which there will be a profusion,) must -be entirely squeezed out. Serve them up very dry, and smoothly and -evenly mashed, having first mixed with them a _very little butter_; and -season them with very little pepper. Much butter gives them a -disagreeable taste and consistence, and the butter should be fresh and -good. It is better to mash squashes, turnips, pumpkins, &c., without any -butter, than to use that which is salt and bad. The flat white ones are -the best summer squashes; the striped green are more watery; the cashaw, -or yellow winter squash, is best of all, and grows well in the New -England states, from whence, as it keeps well all winter, it is often -brought in barrels. Every family should get a barrel of winter squashes -from Boston. They do not thrive in the middle States. In New Jersey and -Pennsylvania, they cannot be raised even from the best yankee seed, -turning pumpkinish the next year, and afterwards becoming quite -pumpkins, and very bad ones too. But when raised in their native soil -and climate nothing of the squash kind is equal to them. They are very -dry and sweet, and of a rich yellow color. Take them out of the barrel, -and keep them far apart on the shelves or floor of a dry pantry. - - -STEWED PUMPKIN.--No pumpkin is too large to be good, but they may be too -old. Cut a good deep-colored pumpkin in half, and empty out all the -seeds, &c. Then cut it into pieces, and pare them. Put the pieces of -pumpkin into a pot with barely sufficient water to keep them from -burning. When they are thoroughly done or soft all through, take them -up; drain, mash, and press them through a cullender. They must be _very_ -dry. Put the stewed pumpkin into a dish, and mix it with a small portion -of butter. Season it with black pepper, and eat it with boiled corned -beef, or corned pork, or bacon. - -Stewed pumpkin is chiefly used for pies and puddings. - - -YANKEE PUMPKIN PUDDING.--Take a pint of stewed pumpkin. Mix together a -pint of _West India_ molasses and a pint of milk, adding two large -table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of ground -ginger. Beat three eggs very light, and stir them, gradually, into the -milk and molasses. Then, by degrees, stir in the stewed pumpkin. Put it -into a deep dish, and bake it without a crust. This is a good farm-house -pudding, and _equally_ good for any healthy children. - -For a large family, double the quantities of ingredients--that is, take -a quart of milk, a quart of molasses, four spoonfuls of brown sugar, -four spoonfuls of ginger, six eggs, and a quart of stewed pumpkin. - -You had best have at hand _more than a quart_ of pumpkin, lest when -mixed it should not hold out. This pudding is excellent made of winter -squash. - - -STEWED MUSHROOMS.--Peel and wash a quart of very fresh mushrooms, and -cut off all the stems. Button mushrooms are best; but if you can only -procure large ones, quarter them. Sprinkle them slightly with salt and -pepper, and put them into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of nice -fresh butter, cut in pieces and slightly dredged with flour. Keep the -lid closely covered all the time. When quite tender, put the mushrooms -into a deep dish, in the bottom of which is laid a nice toast that has -had all the crust pared off, and been dipped for a minute in hot water, -and slightly buttered. Serve up the mushrooms closely covered. They -require no seasoning. - - -BAKED MUSHROOMS.--Take large fine fresh mushrooms. Peel them and remove -the stems. Lay them on their backs in a large dish, (not letting them -touch each other) and put into each mushroom, (as in a cup) a bit of the -best fresh butter. Set the dish in an oven and bake them. Send them to -table in the same dish; or transfer them to another, with a large toast -at the bottom. There is no better way of cooking mushrooms than this. - -If you cannot procure good butter, cook them in nice olive oil. - - -TO BOIL INDIAN CORN.--Corn for boiling should be full grown, but young -and tender, and the grains soft and milky. If its grains are becoming -hard and yellow, it is too old for cooking. Strip the ears of their -leaves and the silk. Put them into a large pot of boiling water, and -boil it rather fast for half an hour or more, in proportion to its size -and age. When done, take it up, drain it, dish it under a cover, or -napkin, and serve it up hot. Before eating it, rub each ear with salt -and pepper, and then spread it with butter. Epicures in corn consider it -sweetest when eaten off the cob. And so it is; but _before company_ few -persons like to hold an ear of indian corn in their hands, and bite the -grains off the cob with their teeth. Therefore, it is more frequently -cut off the cob into a dish; mixed with salt, pepper, and butter, and -helped with a spoon. - -It is said that young green corn will boil sufficiently in ten minutes, -(putting it, _of course_, into a pot of boiling water.) Try it. - -_Another way._--Having pulled off the silk, boil the corn without -removing any but the outside leaves. With the leaves or husk on, it will -require a longer time to cook, but is sweeter and more nutritious. - - -HOMINY.--Hominy is white indian corn, shelled from the cob, divested of -the outer skin by scalding in hot lye, and then winnowed and dried. It -is perfectly white. Having washed it through two or three waters, pour -boiling water on it; cover it, and let it soak all night, or for several -hours. Then put it into a pot or sauce-pan, allow two quarts of water to -each quart of hominy, and boil it till perfectly soft. Then drain it, -put it into a deep dish, add some butter to it, and send it to table -hot, (and _uncovered_,) to eat with any sort of meat; but particularly -with corned beef or pork. What is left may be made next day into thick -cakes, and fried in butter. To be _very good_, hominy should boil four -or five hours. - - -CAROLINA GRITS OR SMALL HOMINY.--The small-grained hominy must be washed -and boiled in the same manner as the large, only allow rather less water -for boiling. For instance, put a pint and a half of water to a quart of -small hominy. Drain it well, send it to table in a deep dish _without a -cover_, and eat it with butter and sugar, or molasses. If covered after -boiling, the vapor will condense within the lid, and make the hominy -thin and watery. - - -SAMP.--This is indian corn skinned, and then pounded or ground till it -is still smaller and finer than the Carolina grits. It must be cooked -and used in the same manner. It is very nice eaten with cream and sugar. - -For invalids it may be made thin, and eaten as gruel. - - -HOMINY CAKES.--A pint of small hominy, or Carolina grits; a pint of -white indian meal, sifted; a salt-spoonful of salt, three large -table-spoonfuls of fresh butter; three eggs or three table-spoonfuls of -strong yeast; a quart of milk. Having washed the small hominy, and left -it soaking all night, boil it soft, drain it, and while hot mix it with -the indian meal; adding the salt, and the butter. Then mix it gradually -with the milk, and set it away to cool. Beat the eggs very light, and -add them gradually to the mixture. The whole should make a thick batter. -Then bake them on a griddle, in the manner of buckwheat cakes, rubbing -or scraping the griddle always before you put on a fresh cake. Trim off -their edges nicely, and send them to table hot. Eat them with butter. - -Or you may bake them in muffin rings. - -If you prefer making these cakes with yeast, you must begin them -earlier, as they will require time to rise. The yeast should be strong -and fresh. If _not_ very strong, use four table-spoonfuls instead of -two. Cover the pan, set it in a warm place; and do not begin to bake -till it is well risen, and the surface of the mixture is covered with -bubbles. - - -CORN PORRIDGE.--Take young corn, and cut the grains from the cob. -Measure it, and to each heaping pint of corn allow not quite a quart of -milk. Put the corn and milk into a pot, stir them well together, and -boil them till the corn is perfectly soft. Then add some bits of fresh -butter dredged with flour, and let it boil five minutes longer. Stir in -at the last, four beaten yolks of eggs, and in three minutes remove it -from the fire. Take up the porridge and send it to table hot, and stir -some fresh butter into it. You may add sugar and nutmeg. - - -CORN OYSTERS.--Three dozen ears of large young indian corn, six eggs; -lard and butter in equal portions for frying. The corn must be young and -soft. Grate it from the cob as fine as possible, and dredge it with -wheat flour. Beat very light the six eggs, and mix them gradually with -the corn. Then let the whole be well incorporated by hard beating. Add a -salt-spoon of salt. - -Have ready, in a frying pan, a sufficient quantity of lard and fresh -butter mixed together. Set it over the fire till it is boiling hot, and -then put in portions of the corn mixture, so as to form oval cakes about -three inches long, and nearly an inch thick. Fry them brown, and send -them to table hot. In taste they will be found to have a singular -resemblance to fried oysters, and are universally liked if properly -done. They make nice side-dishes at dinner, and are very good at -breakfast. - - -SUMMER SACCATASH.--String a quarter of a peck of young green beans, and -cut each bean into three pieces, (not more,) and do not split them. Have -by you a pan of cold water, and throw the beans into it as you cut them. -Have ready over the fire a pot or sauce-pan of boiling water; put in the -beans, and boil them hard near twenty minutes. Afterwards take them up, -and drain them well through a cullender. Take half a dozen ears of young -but full-grown indian corn, (or eight or nine if they are not all large) -and cut the grains down from the cob. Mix together the corn and the -beans, adding a very small tea-spoonful of salt, and boil them about -twenty minutes. Then take up the saccatash, drain it well through a -sieve, put it into a deep dish, and while hot mix in a large piece of -butter, (at least the size of an egg,) add some pepper, and send it to -table. It is generally eaten with salted or smoked meat. - -Fresh Lima beans are excellent cooked in this manner, with green corn. -They must be boiled for half an hour or more, before they are cooked -with the corn. - -Dried beans and dried corn will do very well for saccatash, but they -must be soaked all night before boiling. The water poured on them for -soaking should be hot. - - -WINTER SACCATASH.--This is made of dried shelled beans and hard corn, -soaked over night in separate pans, and boiling water poured over them -in the morning, after pouring off the first water. Then boil both -together till they are _quite soft_. Drain them dry in a sieve, put them -into a deep dish, and mix in a large piece of butter, seasoned with -pepper. This is a good accompaniment to corned pork or beef. The meat -must be boiled in a separate pot. - - -CAROLINA WAY OF BOILING RICE.--Pick the rice carefully, and wash it -through two or three cold waters till it is quite clean. Then (having -drained off all the water through a cullender,) put the rice into a pot -of boiling water, with a very little salt, allowing as much as a quart -of water to half a pint of rice. Boil it twenty minutes or more. Then -pour off the water, draining the rice as dry as possible. Lastly, set it -on hot coals with the lid off, that the steam may not condense upon it -and render the rice watery. Keep it drying thus for a quarter of an -hour. Put it into a deep dish, and loosen and toss it up from the bottom -with two forks, one in each hand, so that the grains may appear to stand -alone. - - -TOMATOS.--Tomatos require long cooking; otherwise they will have a raw -taste, and be quite too acid. Take fine tomatos that are quite ripe, put -them into a pan, and scald them in very hot water. Let them remain for -ten minutes, or till you can peel them without scalding your hands. -Drain them through a sieve. You may either press out all the seeds, -(retaining only the pulp or liquid,) or leave the seeds in, squeezing -the tomatos slightly. Put them into a stew-pan, which must on no account -be of copper, as the acid of the tomatos will render it poisonous. We -knew a lady who died in agonies from eating tomatos cooked in a copper -vessel that had the tinning partly worn off. If the tin inside is -indispensable, (which it is) why have any copper about it? A vessel of -_double_ block tin only, will last as long, and stand the fire as well -as if there was copper inside. For all stews, an iron pan, lined with -delft (or what is called porcelain or enamel) is excellent. Best of all -for stewing tomatos, and many other things, is a _bain marie_, or double -kettle, with the water outside, in the outer kettle. - -Having nearly filled the stew-pan with the tomatos, (cut up, if they are -large) add a little salt and pepper, a piece of fresh butter dredged -with flour, and (if approved) a very little chopped onion. If you have -ready-boiled onions at hand, take one or two of them and mince it fine. -Add to the tomatos some powdered white sugar to lessen the excessive -acid. Put but very few bread-crumbs--if too many, they will weaken the -taste. Tomatos are an improvement to every kind of plain soups, and may -be added, with advantage, after the soup is in the tureen. The cooking -of tomatos should be commenced at least three hours before dinner. Put -no water with them--their own juice is sufficient. - -Many persons like tomatos raw, sliced like cucumbers, and seasoned with -vinegar and pepper. - - -TO KEEP TOMATO PULP.--Having boiled them till entirely dissolved, -(adding a little salt and pepper) press and strain them through a sieve, -pour the liquor into pint or half-pint bottles, (which must be perfectly -clean) and stand the bottles up in a large iron pot or oven, with a -layer of straw in the bottom. Fill up the pot with cold water, cork -them tightly, and let the water boil round the bottles for five hours. -As it boils away, fill up with more hot water. When you take them out, -put a spoonful of salad oil at the top of each bottle; seal the bottles -with rosin cement. This pulp will be good for tomato purposes till next -summer, if kept in a cool dry place. When you open a bottle use it fast, -or cork it again immediately. - - -BROILED TOMATOS.--Take the very largest and ripest tomatos. Wash, but do -not scald or peel them. Cut the tomatos _half_ apart on four sides, -extract the seeds, and fill each tomato with a nice forcemeat of -stuffing, made of bread-crumbs, butter, minced veal or pork, mace, -nutmeg, and sweet marjoram. Having stewed this stuffing in a sauce-pan, -(moistening it with tomato juice, or gravy) fill all the tomatos with -it, opening them out a little like the leaves of a tulip. Butter -slightly a heated gridiron, and broil them on it. Or, they may be baked -in an oven. - -This is a dish for company, either at dinner or breakfast. - - -BUTTON TOMATOS.--These are the very smallest tomatos, and are excellent -for pickling and preserving. If quite ripe, and free from blemishes, -they will keep very well in cold vinegar, and are the easiest done of -all pickles. There are two sorts of button tomatos, the red and the -yellow, both equally good. Wipe every tomato clean and dry, and put -them into small glass jars that have a cover. Fill the jars two-thirds -with the tomatos, and then fill up to the top with the best cider -vinegar. On the top put a table-spoonful of salad oil, and cover them -closely. They require nothing to secure their keeping well. But the -taste will be improved, by putting in with them, three very small thin -muslin bags, each containing mace, nutmeg, and ginger, broken small, but -not powdered. Lay one bag of spice at the bottom of the jar; one about -the middle, and one near the top. If done without spice, they are the -cheapest of all pickles. Do not put them into soups or stews; but eat -them cold with meat, like other pickles. - -If kegs of these tomatos were carried to sea, and liberally served out -to the crew, the scurvy would be less frequent, even on long voyages. - -Large whole tomatos would do for this purpose. We wish it were the -universal custom in ships to take out with them plenty of tomatos kept -in this way in vinegar. Tomato catchup is now much used for the army--so -it should be for the navy; not only for the sick, but for the well; to -keep them well. - - - - -BREAD, PLAIN CAKES, etc. - - -HINTS ON HEATING OVENS AND BAKING.--Brick ovens are generally heated -with dry fagots or small branches, or with light split wood. For baking -bread, the oven-wood must be heavier than for pies. A heap of wood -should be placed in the centre of the oven on the brick floor, and then -set on fire. While the wood is burning, the door of the oven must be -left open. When the wood is all burnt down, and reduced to a mass of -small red coals, the oven will be very hot. Then shovel out all the -coals and sweep the oven floor with a broom, till it is perfectly clean, -and entirely free from ashes. Try the heat within. For baking bread, the -floor of the oven should look red, and a little flour thrown in should -burn brown immediately. If you can hold your hand within the mouth of -the oven as long as you can distinctly count twenty, the heat is about -right. Pies, puddings, &c., require less heat. When a brick oven is -used, a peel, or large broad-bladed long-handled wooden shovel is -necessary for putting in the bread, pies, &c., placing them on the broad -or shovel-end of the peel, and slipping them off on the oven floor. Then -close up the door of the oven, and leave the things to bake. When done, -slip the peel beneath them, and hand them out on it. - -To bake in an Iron Dutch oven, (a large deep, cast-iron pan, with a -handle, a close-fitting lid, and standing on three or four feet,) you -must first stand the lid upright before a clear fire to heat the inside; -and it will be best if the oven itself is also stood up before the fire -for the same purpose. This should be done while the article to be baked -is preparing, that it may be put in as soon as it is ready. The oven may -be suspended to the crane, and hung over the fire, or it may be set on a -bed of hot wood coals in the corner of the hearth. As soon as the loaf -or pie is in, put on the lid of the oven, and cover it all over with hot -coals, replenishing it with more live coals as the baking proceeds. If -you find it too hot on the top, deaden it with ashes. If the oven stands -on the hearth, keep up the heat at the bottom, by additional live coals -placed beneath it. Whether the oven is hung over the fire, or stood on -the hearth, there must always be hot coals all over the lid, the hottest -near the edge. - -To bake on a griddle, you may either hang it over the fire, or set it -over hot coals on the hearth. Most griddles have feet. The fire must be -quite clear and bright, and free from smoke, or the cakes will be -blackened, and have a disagreeable taste. The griddle must be perfectly -clean; and while you are baking, it will require frequent scraping, with -a broad knife. If it is well scraped after every cake is taken off, it -will not want greasing, as there will be no stickiness. Otherwise, some -butter tied up in a clean rag and laid on a saucer, must be kept at hand -all the time, to rub over the griddle between the baking of each cake; -for butter, lard, or nice beef or veal dripping may be substituted, but -it will not be so fine. Never grease with mutton fat, as it will -communicate the taste of tallow. A bit of the fat of _fresh_ pork may -do, (stuck on a fork,) but salt pork will give the outside of the cakes -a disagreeable saltness, and therefore should not be used. - -A griddle may be placed in the oven of a hot stove. Some close stoves -have a hole in the top with a flat lid or cover, which lid can be used -as a griddle. - -The tin-reflecting ovens (with shelves for the pies and cakes) that are -used for baking in the summer, and that, having a furnace beneath, and a -chimney-pipe, can be set out of doors, so that the kitchen may not be -kept hot, are very good for things that will bake soon, and that do not -require what is called a strong, solid heat. But they are not effective -unless the inside is kept _very bright_; otherwise it will not reflect -the heat. The tin ovens should (as well as tin roasters) be cleaned -thoroughly and scoured bright with sand every time they are used. - -The art of baking with anthracite, (or any other mineral coal,) can only -be acquired by practice. The above hints on baking, refer exclusively to -wood fires. - -When a charcoal furnace is used for baking, stewing, or any sort of -cooking, it should either be set out in the open air, or the door of the -kitchen must be kept open all the time. The vapor of charcoal in a -close room is so deleterious as to cause death. - - -DRIED CORN MEAL YEAST CAKES.--Half a pound of fresh hops, four quarts of -water, a pint of wheat or rye flour, half a pint of strong fresh yeast -from the brewer or baker, three pints or more of indian meal. Boil half -a pound of fresh hops in four quarts of water, till the liquid is -reduced to two quarts. Strain it into a pan, and mix in sufficient wheat -flour to make a thin batter, adding half a pint of the best yeast you -can procure. Leave it to ferment; and when the fermentation is over, -stir in sufficient indian meal to make a moderately stiff dough. Cover -it, and set in a warm place to rise. When it has become very light, roll -it out into a square sheet an inch thick, and cut it into flat cakes, -about four inches square. Spread them out separately, on a large dish, -and let them dry slowly in a cool place where there is no sun. While -drying, turn them five or six times a day. When they are quite dry and -hard, put them, separately, into brown paper bags, and keep them in a -box closely covered, and in a place not the least damp. - -When you want them to use for yeast, dissolve in a little warm water one -or more of the cakes, in proportion to the quantity of bread you intend -making. When it is quite dissolved, stir it hard, thicken it with a -little wheat flour, cover it, and place it near the fire to rise, before -you use it. Then mix it with the flour, according to the usual manner -of making bread. One yeast cake is enough for two quarts of meal or -flour. - -This way of preserving yeast is very convenient for keeping through the -summer, or for conveying to a distance. - - -EXCELLENT HOME-MADE YEAST.--Yeast should always be kept in a glass -bottle or a stone jug, and never in earthen or metal. Before you make -fresh yeast, empty entirely the vessel that has contained the last; and -if of stone, scald it twice with boiling water, in which it will be well -to mix a little clear lye. Then rince it with cold water, till perfectly -clean. If you have not used lye in scalding it, dissolve some potash or -pearlash in the rinsing water, to remove any acidity that may linger -about the vessel, and may therefore spoil the new yeast. If you keep -your yeast in glass bottles, the water must be warm, but not hot; as -scalding water may crack them: also, melt some potash or pearlash in -this water. The vessel for keeping it being purified, proceed to make -your yeast. Have ready, in a kettle over the fire, two quarts of boiling -water; put into it a very large handful of hops, (as fine and fresh as -possible,) and let the water boil again with the hops in it for twenty -minutes more. Sift into a pan three pints of wheat flour. Strain the -liquor from the hops into a large bowl, and pour half of it hot over the -flour. Stir it well, and press out all the lumps till it is quite -smooth. Let the other half of the liquid stand till it is cool, and then -pour it gradually to the rest; mixing it well, by stirring as you -proceed. Then take half a pint of good strong yeast--brewer's or baker's -yeast, if you can get it fresh; if not, you must use some that has been -left from your last making, provided it is not the least sour; stir this -yeast into the mixture of hop water and flour, put it immediately into -your jug or bottles, and cork it loosely till the fermentation is over, -(which should be in an hour,) and it will then be fit for use. -Afterwards cork it tightly. It will keep better if you put a raisin or -two into the bottom of each bottle, before you pour in the fresh yeast. -Into a stone jug put half a dozen raisins. - -All yeast is better and more powerful for being fresh. It is better to -make it frequently, (the trouble being little,) than to risk its -becoming sour by endeavoring to keep it too long. When sour it becomes -weak and watery, and tastes and smells disagreeably, and will never make -light bread; besides, being very unwholesome. The acidity may be -somewhat corrected by stirring in some dissolved pearlash, saleratus, or -soda, immediately before the yeast is used; but it is better to have it -good and fresh, without the necessity of any corrective. Yeast should -always be kept in a cool place. - -Those who live in towns where there are breweries have no occasion to -make their own yeast during the brewing season, and in summer they can -every day supply themselves with fresh yeast from the baker's. It is -only in country places where there are neither brewers or bakers that it -is expedient to make it at home. For home-made yeast, we know the above -receipt to be excellent. - -Sweet cakes, buns, rusks, &c., require stronger and fresher yeast than -bread; the sugar will otherwise retard their rising. - - -INDIAN BREAD OR PONE.--Four quarts of indian meal sifted, a large half -pint of wheat flour, a table-spoonful of salt, half a pint of strong -fresh yeast, a quart of warm water. Sift into a large deep pan the -indian meal and the wheat flour, mixing them well. Make a hole in the -centre. The water must be warm, but not hot. Mix it with the yeast, and -pour them into the hole in the midst of the meal. Take a spoon, and with -it mix into the liquid enough of the surrounding meal to make a thin -batter, which you must stir till it is quite smooth, and free from -lumps. Then strew a handful of wheat flour over the surface, scattering -it thinly, so as to cover the whole. Warm a clean cloth, and lay it -folded over the top of the pan. Then set it in a warm place to rise, -nearer the fire in winter than in summer. When it is quite light, and -has risen so that the flour on the surface is cracked, strew on the -salt, and begin to form the whole mass into a dough; commencing round -the hole that contains the batter, and adding, gradually, sufficient -lukewarm water (which you must have ready for the purpose,) to mix it of -the proper consistence. When the whole is completely mixed, and the -batter in the centre is thoroughly incorporated with the dough, knead it -hard for at least half an hour. Then, having formed the dough into a -round lump in the middle of the pan, strew a little more flour thinly -over it. Cover it, and set it again in a warm place for half an hour. -Then flour your pasteboard, divide the dough equally, and make it into -two loaves. Have the oven ready. Put in the loaves directly, and bake -them about two hours or more. Indian meal requires always more baking -than wheat. When you take them out, it is well to wrap each loaf in a -clean, coarse towel, well sprinkled with cold water, and rolled up damp -till the bread is baked. Having thus wrapped up the loaves, stand them -on end to cool slowly. The damp cloths will prevent the crust from -hardening too much while the loaves are cooling. - -All indian bread, and every sort of indian cake, is best when quite -fresh. - -Excellent bread may be made of equal proportions of wheat, rye flour, -and indian corn; or of three parts wheat and one part indian. All bread -should be kept closely secluded from the air, wrapped in cloths, and put -away in boxes or baskets with tightly-fitting lids. - -Should you find the dough sour, (either from the heat of the weather, or -from standing too long,) you may recover it, by dissolving in a little -lukewarm water a tea-spoonful of pearlash, saleratus, or soda. Sprinkle -this water all over the dough. Then knead it in, so that it may be -dispersed throughout. Then put it into the oven as soon as possible; -first tasting the dough, to discover if the sourness is entirely -removed. If not, mix in a little more pearlash, and then taste it again. -Take care not to put in too much of any of these alkaline substances, -lest they communicate a disagreeable, soapy taste to the bread. - -When you buy corn meal, it will keep better if the whole is sifted as -soon as you get it. Avoid buying much at a time, unless you can keep it -in a very cool place. When sour, it is unfit to eat. Common indian meal -is much the best for use. - - -INDIAN RYE BREAD.--Two quarts of indian meal, two quarts of rye meal, -three pints of milk or water, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a pint of -strong fresh yeast. Having sifted the rye and indian meal in a large -pan, mix them well together, adding the salt. Boil the milk or water in -a sauce-pan, and when scalding hot pour it on the meal, and stir the -whole very hard. If too stiff, add a little more warm water. Let it -stand till it becomes only of a lukewarm heat, and then stir in the -yeast. Knead the mixture into a stiff dough, and knead it long and hard -for at least half an hour. Then cover the pan with a thick cloth that -has been previously warmed, and set it near the fire to rise. When the -dough is quite light, and cracked all over the top, take it out of the -pan; divide the mass in half, make it into two loaves, knead each loaf -well for ten minutes or more, and then cover and set them again near the -fire for about half an hour. By this time have the oven ready, put in -the loaves directly, and bake them at least an hour and a half. This -bread is considered very wholesome. - -Should you find the dough sour, you may rectify it by kneading in a -tea-spoonful of soda or pearlash, dissolved in a little warm water. - - -INDIAN WHEAT BREAD.--This is made in the above manner, substituting -wheat for rye flour. - -In any sort of home-made bread, (either white or brown) a handful or -more of indian meal will be found an improvement, rendering it moist and -sweet. - - -BOSTON RYE AND INDIAN BREAD.--Two quarts of indian meal, two quarts of -rye meal, half a pint of strong fresh yeast, half a pint of West India -molasses, a small table-spoonful of salt. Sift the rye and indian meal -into a large pan or wooden bowl; and mix them well together, adding a -little salt. Have ready half a pint of water, warm but not hot. Mix with -it the molasses, and then stir into it the yeast. Make a hole in the -middle of the pan of meal, pour in the liquid, and then with a spoon -work into it a portion of the flour that surrounds the hole, till the -liquid in the centre becomes a thick batter. Sprinkle the top with rye -meal, lay a thick cloth over the pan, and set it in a warm place to -rise. In three or four hours it should be light enough to appear cracked -all over the surface. Then pour into the middle (by degrees) about a -pint of warm water, (it must not be hot,) and as you pour mix it well -all through the dough, till the whole becomes a round mass. Sprinkle -some rye flour on the dough, and having floured your hands, knead it -long and hard, (at least half an hour, and after it ceases to stick to -your hands,) turning it over as you proceed. Then sprinkle the dough -again with flour, cover it, and again set it in a warm place to rise. -Have the oven ready, and of the proper heat, so that the bread may be -put in as soon as it has completely risen the second time. When -perfectly light, the dough will stand high, and the surface will be -cracked all over. This quantity will be sufficient for a common-sized -loaf. Set it directly into the oven, and bake it about two hours. When -bread has done rising, it will fall again if not put into the oven. As -soon as it is done, wrap it immediately in a clean coarse towel wet with -cold water, and stand it up on end till it is cool. - -This is a palatable, cheap, and wholesome bread. It may be baked in a -deep tin or iron pan. - -If the dough should have stood so long as to become sour, (which it -will, if mixed over night,) restore it by kneading in a small -tea-spoonful of pearlash or saleratus melted in a little warm water. - - -EGG PONE.--Three eggs, a quart of indian meal, a large table-spoonful of -fresh butter, a small tea-spoonful of salt, a half pint (or more) of -milk. Beat the eggs very light, and mix them with the milk. Then stir -in, gradually, the indian meal, adding the salt and butter. It must not -be a batter, but a soft dough, just thick enough to be stirred well with -a spoon. If too thin, add more indian meal; if too stiff, thin it with a -little more milk. Beat or stir it _long and hard_. Butter a tin or iron -pan. Put the mixture into it, and set the pan immediately into an oven, -which must be moderately hot at first, and the heat increased afterward. -A Dutch oven is best for this purpose. It should bake an hour and a half -or two hours, in proportion to its thickness. Send it to table hot, and -cut into slices. Eat it with butter, or molasses. - - -INDIAN MUSH.--Have ready on a clear fire a pot of boiling water. Stir -into it, by degrees, (a handful at a time,) sufficient indian meal to -make a very thick porridge, and then add a very small portion of salt, -allowing not more than a level tea-spoonful to a quart of meal. You must -keep the pot boiling all the time you are stirring in the meal; and -between every handful stir hard with the mush-stick, (a round stick -about half a yard long, flattened at the lower end,) as, if not well -stirred, the mush will be lumpy. After it is sufficiently thick and -smooth, keep it boiling an hour longer, stirring it occasionally. Then -cover the pot closely, and hang it higher up the chimney, or set it on -hot coals on the hearth, so as to simmer it slowly for another hour. The -goodness and wholesomeness of mush depends greatly on its being long and -thoroughly boiled. It should also be made very thick. If well made, and -well cooked, it is wholesome and nutritious; but the contrary, if thin, -and not sufficiently boiled. It is not too long to have it three or four -hours over the fire, first boiling, then simmering. On the contrary, it -will be better for it. The coarser the corn meal the less cooking it -requires. Send it to table hot, and in a deep dish. Eat it with sweet -milk, buttermilk, or cream, or with butter and sugar, or with butter and -molasses; making a hole in the middle of your plate of mush, putting -some butter into the hole, and then adding the sugar or molasses. - -Cold mush that has been left may be cut into slices, or mouthfuls, and -fried next day, in butter, or in nice dripping of veal, beef, or pork; -but not mutton or lamb. - - -INDIAN HASTY PUDDING.--Put two quarts of milk into a clean pot or -sauce-pan. Set it over the fire, adding a level tea-spoonful of salt, -and, when it comes to a boil, stir in a lump of fresh butter about the -size of a goose egg. Then add (a handful at a time) sufficient indian -meal to make it very thick, stirring it all the while with a mush stick. -Keep it boiling well, and continue to throw in indian meal till it is so -thick that the stick stands upright in it. Then send it to table hot, -and eat it with milk, cream, or molasses and butter. What is left may be -cut into slices, and fried next day, or boiled in a bag. - - -INDIAN MEAL GRUEL.--This is an excellent food for the sick. Having -sifted some indian meal, mix in a quart bowl three table-spoonfuls of -the meal with six of cold water. Stir it smooth, and press out the lumps -against the side of the bowl. Have ready a very clean sauce-pan, -entirely free from grease, with a pint of boiling water. Pour this, -scalding hot, on the mixture in the bowl, a little at a time, and stir -it well, adding a pinch of salt. Then put the whole back into the -sauce-pan. Set it on hot coals and stir it till it boils, making the -spoon go down to the bottom to prevent the gruel from burning. After it -has come to a boil, let it continue boiling half an hour, stirring it -frequently, and skimming it. Give it to the invalid warm, in a bowl or -tumbler, to be eaten with a tea-spoon. It may be sweetened with a little -sugar. When the physician permits, some grated nutmeg may be added; -also, a very little wine. - - -RYE MUSH.--To make smooth rye mush, sift a quart or more of rye meal -into a pan, and gradually pour in sufficient cold water to make a very -thick batter, stirring it hard with a spoon as you proceed, and -carefully pressing out all the lumps against the side of the pan. Add a -very little salt. The batter must be so thick at the last that you can -scarcely stir it. Then thin it with a little more water, and see that it -is quite smooth. Rye, and also wheat flour, have a disposition to be -more lumpy than corn meal, when made into mush. When thoroughly mixed -and stirred, put it into a pot, place it over the fire and boil it well, -stirring it with a mush-stick till it comes to a hard boil; then place -it in a diminished heat, and simmer it slowly till you want to dish it -up. Eat it warm, with butter and molasses, or with sweet milk, or fresh -buttermilk. Rye mush is considered very wholesome, particularly in cases -of dyspepsia. - - -COMMON HOE-CAKE.--Take an earthen or tin pan, and half fill it with -coarse indian meal, which had best be sifted in. Add a little salt. Have -ready a kettle of boiling water. Pour into the indian meal sufficient -hot water (a little at a time,) to make a stiff dough, stirring it with -a spoon as you proceed. It must be thoroughly mixed, and stirred hard. -If you want the cakes for breakfast, mix this dough over night; cover -the pan, and set it in a _cool_ place till morning. If kept warm, it -may turn sour. Early next morning, as soon as the fire is burning well, -set the griddle over it, and take out the dough, a handful at a time. -Flatten and shape it by patting it with your hands, till you form it -into cakes about the size of a common saucer, and half an inch thick. -When the griddle is quite hot, lay on it as many cakes as it will hold, -and bake them brown. When the upper side is done, slip a broad knife -beneath and turn them over. They must be baked brown on both sides. Eat -them warm, with buttermilk, sweet milk, butter, molasses, or whatever is -most convenient. If you intend these cakes for dinner or supper, mix -them as early in the day as you can, and (covering the pan) let them -stand in a cool place till wanted for baking. In cold weather you may -save trouble by mixing over night enough to last the next day for -breakfast, dinner, and supper; baking them as they are wanted for each -meal. Or they may be all baked in the morning, and eaten cold; but they -are then not so palatable as when warm. They will be less liable to -stick, if before each baking the griddle is dredged with wheat flour, or -greased with a bit of fat pork stuck on a fork. You may cover it all -over with one large cake, instead of several small ones. - -This cake is so called, because in some parts of America it was -customary to bake it on the iron of a hoe, stood up before the fire. It -is better known by that name than by any other. - - -COMMON GRIDDLE CAKE.--A quart of indian meal, sufficient warm water to -make a soft dough, a small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the indian meal -into a pan, and add the salt. Make a hole in the centre of the meal, and -pour in a little warm water. Then mix it with a large, strong spoon, -adding, by degrees, water enough to make a soft dough. Flour your hands, -and knead it into a large lump--divide it into two equal portions. Flour -your pasteboard, lay on it the first lump of dough, and roll it out -about an inch thick. Then, (having already heated your griddle,) lay the -cake upon it, spreading it evenly, and make it a good round shape. It -should cover the whole surface of the griddle, which must first be -greased, either with butter or lard tied in a rag, or with a bit of fat -fresh pork. Bake it well; and when one side is well browned, turn it on -the other, taking care not to break it. Send it to table hot, cut into -three-cornered pieces--split and butter them. As soon as the first cake -is sent in, put on the other to bake. - -This is one of the plainest and simplest preparations of indian cake; -and is very good when warm. - - -PLAIN JOHNNY CAKE.--A quart of indian meal, a pint of warm water, a -level tea-spoonful of salt. Sift a quart of indian meal into a pan. Make -a hole in the middle, and pour in a pint of warm water, adding the salt. -With a spoon mix the meal and water gradually into a soft dough. Stir -it very hard for a quarter of an hour or more, till it becomes light and -spongy. Then spread the dough, smooth and evenly, on a stout, flat -board. A piece of the head of a flour barrel will serve for this -purpose. Place the board nearly (but not quite) upright, and set a -smoothing-iron or a stone against the back to support it. Bake it well. -When done, cut it into squares, and send it hot to table, split and -buttered. You may eat molasses with it. - - -VERY PLAIN INDIAN DUMPLINGS.--Sift some indian meal into a pan; add -about a salt-spoon of salt to each quart of meal, and scald it with -sufficient boiling water to make a stiff dough. Pour in the water -gradually, stirring as you pour. When the dough becomes a stiff lump -divide it into equal portions; flour your hands, and make it into thick -flat dumplings, about as large round as the top of a glass tumbler, or a -breakfast cup. Dredge the dumplings on all sides with flour, put them -into a pot of boiling water, (if made sufficiently stiff they need not -be tied in cloths,) and keep them boiling hard till thoroughly done. Try -them with a fork, which must come out quite clean, and with no -clamminess sticking to it. They are an excellent appendage to salt pork -or bacon, serving them up with the meat; or they may be eaten afterwards -with butter and molasses, or with milk sweetened well with brown sugar, -and flavored with a little ground cinnamon. On no account boil them with -meat. - - -INDIAN MUFFINS.--A pint and a half of yellow indian meal, sifted; a -handful of wheat flour; a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; a quart of -milk; four eggs; a very small tea-spoonful of salt. Put the milk into a -sauce-pan. Cut the butter into it. Set it over the fire and warm it till -the butter is very soft, but not till it melts. Then take it off, stir -it well till all mixed, and set it away to cool. Beat four eggs very -light, and when the milk is cold, stir them into it alternately with the -meal, a little at a time, of each. Add the salt. Beat the whole very -hard after it is all mixed. Then butter some muffin-rings on the inside. -Set them in a hot oven, or on a heated griddle; pour some of the batter -into each, and bake the muffins well. Send them hot to table, continuing -to bake while a fresh supply is wanted. Pull them open with your -fingers, and eat them with butter, to which you may add molasses or -honey. These muffins will be found excellent, and can be prepared in a -very short time; for instance, in three quarters or half an hour before -breakfast or tea. - -This mixture may be baked in waffle-irons, as waffles. Butter them, and -have on the table a glass bowl with powdered sugar and powdered -cinnamon, to eat with these waffles. - - -CORN MEAL BREAKFAST CAKES.--A quart of indian meal; a handful or more of -wheat flour; a large salt-spoon of salt; a quart of warm water; an -additional pint of lukewarm water; a bit of pearlash the size of a -hazle-nut, or the same quantity of soda or saleratus. Mix over night, in -a large pan, the indian meal, the wheat flour and salt. Pour on -gradually a quart of warm water, (warm but not hot,) and stir it in with -a large wooden or iron spoon, so as to form a very soft dough. Cover the -pan, and set it on the dresser till morning. In the morning thin the -dough with another pint of warm water, so as to make it into a batter, -having first dissolved in the water a salt-spoonful of powdered pearlash -or saleratus, or a bit the size of a hazle-nut. Beat the mixture hard. -Then cover it, and let it stand near the fire for a quarter of an hour -before you begin to bake it. Bake it in thin cakes on a griddle. Send -them to table hot, and eat them with butter and molasses, or honey. - - -INDIAN RICE CAKES.--Take equal quantities of yellow indian meal and well -boiled rice. Mix them together in a pan, the meal and rice alternately, -a little at a time of each. The boiled rice may be either hot or cold; -but it will be rather best to mix it hot. Having first mixed it with a -spoon, knead it well with your hands; moistening it with a little milk -or water, if you find it too stiff. Have ready, over the fire, a heated -griddle. Grease it with fresh butter tied in a clean rag; and having -made the mixture into flat round cakes, bake them well on both sides. -Eat them with butter and sugar, or butter and molasses, or with butter -alone. - - -PUMPKIN INDIAN CAKES.--Take equal portions of indian meal, and stewed -pumpkin that has been well mashed and _drained very dry_ in a sieve or -cullender. Put the stewed pumpkin in a pan, and stir the meal gradually -into it, a spoonful at a time, adding a little butter as you proceed. -Mix the whole thoroughly, stirring it very hard. If not thick enough to -form a stiff dough, add a little more indian meal. Make it into round, -flat cakes, about the size of a muffin, and bake them over the fire on a -hot griddle greased with butter. Or lay them in a square iron pan, and -bake them in an oven. - -Send them to table hot, and eat them with butter. - - -EXCELLENT BUCKWHEAT CAKES.--A quart of buckwheat meal, sifted; a level -tea-spoonful of salt; a small half pint or a large handful of indian -meal; two large table-spoonfuls of strong fresh brewer's yeast or four -table-spoonfuls of home-made yeast; sufficient lukewarm water to make a -moderate batter. Mix together the buckwheat and indian meal, and add the -salt. Make a hole in the centre of the meal, and pour in the yeast. Then -stir in gradually, from a kettle, sufficient tepid or lukewarm water to -make a moderately thick batter when united with the yeast. Cover the -pan, set it in a warm place, and leave it to rise. It should be light in -about three hours. When it has risen high, and is covered with bubbles, -it is fit to bake. Have ready a clean griddle well heated over the fire. -Grease it well with a bit of fresh butter tied in a clean white rag, and -kept on a saucer near you. Then dip out a large ladleful of the batter, -and bake it on the griddle; turning it when brown, with the cake-turner, -and baking it brown on the other side. Grease the griddle slightly -between baking each cake, or scrape it smooth with a broad knife. As -fast as you bake the cakes, lay them, several in a pile, on a hot plate. -Butter them, and if of large size cut them across into four pieces. Or -send them to table to be buttered there. Trim off the edges before they -go in. - -If your batter has been mixed over night, and is found sour in the -morning, dissolve a salt-spoon of pearlash or saleratus in a little -lukewarm water, stir it into the batter, let it stand a quarter of an -hour, and then bake it. The alkali will remove the acidity, and increase -the lightness of the batter. If you use soda for this purpose it will -require a tea-spoonful. - -If the batter is kept at night in so cold a place as to freeze, it will -be unfit for use. Do not grease the griddle with meat-fat of any sort. - - -NICE RYE BATTER CAKES.--A quart of lukewarm milk, two eggs, a large -table-spoonful of fresh, brewer's yeast or two of home-made yeast; -sufficient sifted rye meal to make a moderate batter; a salt-spoon of -salt; having warmed the milk, beat the eggs very light, and stir them -gradually into it, alternately with the rye meal, adding the salt. Put -in the meal, a handful at a time, till you have the batter about as -thick as for buckwheat cakes. Then stir in the yeast, and give the -batter a hard beating, seeing that it is smooth and free from lumps. -Cover the pan, and set it in a warm place to rise. When risen high, and -covered with bubbles, the batter is fit to bake. Have ready over the -fire a hot griddle, and bake the cakes in the manner of buckwheat. Send -them to table hot, and eat them with butter, molasses, or honey. - -Yeast powders, used according to the directions that accompany them, and -put in at the last, just before baking, are an improvement to the -lightness of all batter cakes, provided that real yeast or eggs are also -in the mixture. But it is not well to depend on the powders exclusively; -particularly when real yeast is to be had. The lightness produced by -yeast powders alone, is not the right sort; and though the cakes are -eatable, they are too tough and leathery to be wholesome. As -_auxiliaries_ to genuine yeast, and to beaten eggs, yeast powders are -excellent. But not as the sole dependence. - -Indian batter cakes may be made as above; or rye and indian meal be -mixed in equal proportions. - - -INDIAN CUP CAKES.--A pint and a half of yellow Indian meal; half a pint -of wheat flour; a pint and a half of _sour_ milk; (buttermilk is best;) -a small tea-spoonful of saleratus or soda dissolved in warm water; two -eggs; a level tea-spoonful of salt. Sift the indian and wheat meal into -a pan and mix them well, adding the salt. If you have no buttermilk or -other sour milk at hand, turn some sweet milk sour by setting a pan of -it in the sun, or stirring in a spoonful of vinegar. Take out a small -tea-cupful of the sour milk, and reserve it to be put in at the last. -Beat the eggs very light, and then stir them, gradually, into the milk, -alternately with the meal, a little at a time of each. Lastly, dissolve -the soda or saleratus, and stir it into the cup of sour milk that has -been reserved for the purpose. It will effervesce; stir it while foaming -into the mixture, which should be a thick batter. Have ready some -tea-cups, or little deep tins. Butter them well; nearly fill them with -the batter, and set them immediately into a rather brisk oven. The cakes -must be thoroughly baked all through. When done, turn them out on large -plates, and send them hot to the breakfast or tea-table. Split them into -three pieces, and eat them with butter. - -The soda will entirely remove the acidity of the milk, which will -effervesce the better for being sour at first, adding therefore to the -lightness of the cake. Taste the milk, and if you find that the -slightest sourness remains, add a little more dissolved soda. - -All the alkalies, pearlash, saleratus, soda, and sal-volatile, will -remove acidity, and increase lightness; but if too much is used, they -will impart a disagreeable taste. It is useless to put lemon or orange -juice into any mixture that is afterwards to have one of these alkalies, -as they will entirely destroy the flavor of the fruit. - - -CAROLINA RICE CAKES.--Having picked and washed half a pint of rice, boil -it by itself till the grains lose all form, and are dissolved into a -thick mass or jelly. While warm, mix into it a large lump of the best -fresh butter, and a salt-spoonful of salt. Pour into a bowl a moderate -sized tea-cupful of ground rice flour, and add to it as much milk as -will make a tolerably stiff batter. Stir it till it is quite smooth, and -free from lumps. Then mix it thoroughly with the boiled rice. Beat six -eggs as light as possible, and stir them, gradually, into the mixture. -Bake it on a griddle, in cakes about as large round as a saucer. Eat -them warm with butter; and have on the table, in a small bowl, some -powdered white sugar and nutmeg, for those who like it. - - -AUNT LYDIA'S CORN CAKE.--Sift into a large pan a quart of yellow corn -meal, and add a level tea-spoonful of salt, (not more.) Have ready a -pint of boiling milk, sufficient to make a soft dough. Mix the milk hot -into the corn meal, and add about a quarter of a pound, or half a pint -of nice fresh butter. Having beaten five eggs till very light and thick, -stir them gradually into the mixture, and set it to cool. All -preparations of corn meal require much beating and stirring. Have ready -some small tin pans, about four or five inches square, and two or three -inches deep. They are especially good for baking such cakes, (far better -than patty-pans,) and are made by any tinsmith. Grease the pans with the -same butter you have used in mixing the cakes. _Fill the pans to the -top_ with the above mixture, that the heat may immediately catch the -surface, and cause it to puff up high above the edges of the pan. If -properly mixed, and well beaten, there is no danger of it running over. -If only half filled, and not very light, the mixture when baking will -sink down, and become heavy and tough. Set these cakes immediately into -a moderate oven. Bake them brown, and send them to the breakfast table -hot. Split and butter them. - -They may be baked in muffin rings, but the small square pans are best. - -This is the very best preparation of Indian cakes. If _exactly -followed_, we believe there is none superior; as is the opinion of all -persons who have eaten them. The cook from whom this receipt was -obtained, is a Southern colored woman, called Aunt Lydia. - -The above quantities will furnish cakes only for a small family. If the -family is of tolerable size, double the proportions of each article--as -for instance, two quarts of Indian meal, one quart of milk, half a pound -of butter, and ten eggs, with a level table-spoonful of salt. Let them -be well baked; not scorched on the top, and raw at the bottom. - -We recommend them highly as the perfection of corn cakes, if well made, -well baked, and with all the ingredients of the best quality. - -Use yellow indian meal in preference to white. The yellow is sweeter, -has more of the true corn taste, and its color shows at once what it is. -The white has less flavor, and may be mistaken for very coarse wheat. It -is difficult to keep corn meal good for the whole year. Before the new -corn meal is in market, the old is apt to become musty. If you live in a -city it is best to buy it as you want it; a few pecks at a time. If in -the country, sift your barrel of corn meal soon after it is brought; -divide it, and keep it in several different vessels, always well -covered. - - -SHORT CAKE.--As this requires no rising, it may be mixed and prepared at -half an hour's notice. Take a quart and a pint of wheat flour, sift it -into a pan, and divide into three parts three quarters of a pound of -nice fresh butter. Cut up one piece into the pan of flour, and mix it -into a dough with a broad knife, adding, as you proceed, as little water -as will be barely sufficient. The water must be very cold. Roll out this -lump of paste, dredge it slightly with flour, fold it up, and roll it -out again. Then cover it with a second division of the butter, put on -the sheet of paste with the knife, and dispersed at equal distances. -Sprinkle it with flour, fold it, and roll out the sheet again. Put on -the remainder of the butter as before, in bits equally dispersed. Fold, -dredge, and roll out the dough into a rather thin sheet. Cut it into -small round cakes with the edge of a tumbler, or something like it, -using up the clippings of paste left at the last to make one more cake. -Have ready a hot griddle or oven. Put on the cakes so as not to touch -each other, and bake them light brown on both sides. Send them to table -hot, to be split and buttered. Mix and roll out these cakes as fast as -possible, and avoid handling them more than you need. Paste made -_slowly_ is never light or flakey. Mix quick and roll quick. This is a -good plain paste for fruit pot-pies or dumplings. - -You may make common short cake for very healthy people, with two quarts -of flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound -of lard, mixed into the pan of meal with a very little cold water, and a -second quarter of lard spread all over the sheet of paste, after rolling -it out. Fold, sprinkle, and roll it out again into one round griddle -cake, or two if you have enough of dough. Take care, in baking, not to -have it smoked or blackened at the edge. When done, cut it into "pie -pieces," and send it to table to be split and buttered. - - -HALF MOONS.--Of this paste you may make half-moon pies. Cut the paste -into round cakes. On half the circle, lay plenty of stewed fruit well -sweetened, (for instance, stewed dried peach,) fold over it the other -half, pinch the two edges together, and crimp them. Bake them in an -oven, and eat them fresh. If you have fruit in the house ready stewed, -half-moon pies can be got up for a plain dessert on an emergency. Either -mince meat, or sausage meat, may be baked in half-moons. They will bake -very nicely, laid side by side, in large square tin pans, first dredged -slightly with flour. - - -SOFT MUFFINS.--Warm a quart of milk, and melt in it a quarter of a pound -of the best fresh butter, cut into bits. When melted, stir it about, and -set it away to cool. Beat four eggs till very thick and light, and stir -them gradually into a pan of milk, and butter when it is quite cold. -Then, by degrees, stir in enough of sifted flour to make a batter as -thick as you can well beat it. Then, at the last, stir in three -table-spoonfuls of baker's or brewer's yeast. Cover the pan of batter -with a double cloth, and set it on the hearth (or some other warm place) -to rise, but it must not be allowed to get hot. It should have risen -nearly to the top of the pan, and be covered with bubbles in about three -hours. The griddle being heated, grease it with nice butter tied in a -rag; take a ladleful of batter out of the pan, pour it into the ring, -and bake the muffins. Send them hot to table, and split and butter them. -These are superior to all muffins. Those who have eaten them will never -desire any others, if this receipt has been faithfully followed. Try it. - - -SALLY LUNN CAKE.--This is a favorite tea cake, and so universally liked -that it is well to make a liberal quantity of the mixture, and bake it -in two loaves. Sift into a large pan three pounds of fine flour. Warm in -a quart of milk half a pound of fresh butter, and add a small -tea-spoonful of salt, six eggs well beaten, and add, gradually, two wine -glasses of excellent fresh yeast. Mix the flour well into the pan, (a -little at a time) and beat the whole very hard. Divide this quantity -into two equal portions, and set it to rise in two pans. Cover it with -thick cloths, and set it on the hearth to rise. When quite light, grease -two loaf-pans with the same butter used for the cakes, and bake it in a -moderate oven, keeping up the heat steadily to the last. It should be -thoroughly done all through. Send it to table hot, cut in slices, but -the slices left standing as in a pound cake at a party. - -The Sally Lunn mixture may be baked on a griddle, as muffins in muffin -rings, and split and buttered at table. - -In mixing this cake, add neither sugar nor spice. They do not improve, -but spoil it, as would be found on trial. It is the best of plain tea -cakes, if properly made and baked. - - -DELAWARE CAKES.--This is a plain tea cake. Sift into a pan two quarts of -flour. Cut up half a pound of fresh butter, and rub it into the flour -with your hands. Beat five eggs very light and thick; make a hole in the -centre of the flour, and gradually stir the beaten eggs, in turn with a -pint of milk. Then add a jill of fine fresh yeast. Mix the whole -thoroughly with a broad knife. Transfer it to large square tin pans. -Cover it with a clean flannel, and set it on the hearth to rise. When it -is quite light, and cracked all over the surface, divide the dough into -cakes and bake them in muffin rings, on a griddle or in a stove. If -baked in one large cake, there is a risk of their being made heavy, by -cutting them when hot. - -To make sweet cakes with the above mixture, add gradually to the flour -in the pan, half a pound of powdered sugar before you rub in the butter, -and after the eggs and milk. Stir in a wineglass of rosewater, or less, -if it is very strong, (which rosewater seldom is) and also it loses much -of its strength in cooking. Or, substitute the yellow rind and juice of -a lemon, and some powdered nutmeg. They will then be a cake for company; -otherwise, they will be for family teas. - -Either plain or sweet they are very good. We rather prefer them plain. -If plain, omit even sugar. Sugar, without other flavoring, gives plain -tea cakes a faint sickly taste, and is better left out entirely, except -for children--and they like any kind of sweetness, however little. - - -MARYLAND BISCUIT.--Take two quarts of sifted wheat flour, and add a -small tea-spoonful of salt. Rub into the pan of flour a large quarter of -a pound of lard, and add, gradually, warm milk enough to make a very -stiff dough. Knead the lump of dough long and hard, and pound it on all -sides with a rolling-pin. Divide the dough into several pieces, and -knead and pound each piece separately. This must go on for two or three -hours, continually kneading and pounding, otherwise it will be hard, -tough, and indigestible. Then make it into small round thick biscuits, -prick them with a fork, and bake them a pale brown. - -This is the most laborious of cakes, and also the most unwholesome, even -when made in the best manner. We do not recommend it; but there is no -accounting for tastes. Children should not eat these biscuits--nor grown -persons either, if they can get any other sort of bread. - -When living in a town where there are bakers, there is no excuse for -making Maryland biscuit. Believe nobody that says they are not -unwholesome. Yet we have heard of families, in country places, where -neither the mistress nor the cook knew any other preparation of wheat -bread. Better to live on indian cakes. - - -HOME-MADE BREAD.--You cannot have good bread without good flour, good -yeast, good kneading, and good baking, all united. Like many other -things, the best flour is always the cheapest in the end. There is none -better than that which comes from the mills of Hiram Smith, Rochester, -New York. All flour should be kept in a dry place, damp being always -injurious to it. Good flour goes farther than that of inferior quality, -and is both whiter and lighter. No skill will avail either in making or -baking bread, if the flour is of bad quality. Flour will keep much -better if, as soon as a new barrel is brought in, the whole of it is -sifted, and divided in several buckets. Flour buckets, made for the -purpose, are short and wide, are broader at the bottom than the top, and -have handles and lids. They are to be had of all coopers. Yeast must -always be of the best quality, strong and fresh. With too much yeast the -bread will be bitter; with too little it will be heavy; with stale yeast -it will be heavy, sour, and dark-colored. If baked too little, it -becomes tough and clammy. We deprecate the practice of putting hartshorn -in bread. It gives it a bad taste; and even if it produces a sort of -factitious lightness, it also renders it tough and difficult to -masticate, however nice it may look. Also, it is very unwholesome. - -The oven should be heated in time, to set in the bread as soon as ready. -When once it has risen to its utmost lightness, it will fall and turn -sour if permitted to stand. The only remedy for sour bread is, to melt -a table-spoonful of soda or pearlash in tepid water, and sprinkle it -over the dough, which must then be kneaded again, after it has rested -half an hour. In summer, do not begin your bread over night; it will -certainly be sour before morning. In winter you may do so, but keep it -all night in a warm (though not a hot) place. If the dough freezes, you -may throw it away at once. - -To knead, double up your hands, put them deep into the dough, and work -it with your knuckles, exerting all your strength. When the dough sticks -to them no longer, but leaves your bent fingers clean and clear, it is -time to cease kneading, for you have done enough for that time. - -Sift into a deep pan, or large wooden bowl, a peck of fine wheat flour, -(adding a large table-spoonful of salt,) and mix the water with half a -pint of strong fresh brewer's yeast, or near a whole pint if the yeast -is home-made. Pour this into the hole, in the middle of the heap of -flour. Mix in with a wooden spoon, a portion of the flour from the -surrounding edges of the hole so as to make a thick batter, and having -sprinkled dry flour over the top, let it rest for near an hour. This is -called "_setting the sponge_," or "_making the leaven_." When it has -swelled up to the surface, and burst through the coating of flour that -covered the hole, pour in as much more lukewarm water as will suffice to -mix the whole gradually into a dough. Knead it hard and thoroughly, -leaving no lumps in it, and continue to knead till the dough leaves -your hands. Throw over it a clean thick cloth, and set it in a warm -place to rise again. When it is quite light and cracked all over the -surface, divide it into loaves, and give each loaf a little more -kneading, and let it rest till it has risen as high as it will. Have -your oven quite ready, and (having transferred the loaves to pans, -sprinkled with flour,) bake them well. Try the heat of the oven by -previously throwing in a little flour. If it browns well, and you can -hold your hand in the heat while you count twenty, it is a good -temperature for bread. If the flour scorches black the oven is too hot, -so leave the oven open a little while till it becomes cooler. As soon as -the bread is quite done, take out the loaves, wrap each tightly in a -clean coarse cloth, damped by sprinkling it with water, and stand them -up on their edges. This will prevent the crust from becoming too hard. -Keep the loaves wrapped up after they are deposited in the bread box. - - -ROLLS--Are made as above, except that they are mixed with warm milk -instead of water, and a little fresh butter rubbed into the dough. - - -TWIST BREAD.--Before you put the dough into the baking pans, divide it -equally into long thick rolls, (smaller at the ends) and plait or twist -three together. - - -BRAN BREAD--Is made like any other, only of bran meal; and in setting -the sponge, put _wheat_ flour into the hole, and add to the liquid half -a tea-cupful of nice brown sugar. Bran bread should look very brown. It -should be eaten fresh. When stale, it is too dry and hard. Bran batter -cakes are made and baked like buckwheat. - - -RYE BREAD.--Is made like wheat bread, but that it requires more kneading -and baking. Rye batter cakes, made like buckwheat, should have one half -corn meal. - - -BREAD BISCUITS.--When making bread after the dough has risen very light, -take from it a quart or more; knead into it a quarter of a pound of -fresh butter, and form it into tall rolls. Bake them in an oven, and -when done break them apart, but do not cut them with a knife--or, bake -them in flat biscuits, to be split and buttered. Bread dough, with some -butter added to the mixture, will make plain cakes for children, with -the addition of white sugar, powdered cinnamon, some good raisins, -(stoned,) cut in half, and dredged well with flour, to prevent their -clodding or sinking. A beaten egg mixed into the dough is an -improvement. Children, (accustomed only to plain living,) like these -cakes very well, but they must be light and well baked. - - -BREAD CAKES.--Take slices of stale wheat bread, that has been well made -and light. There should be enough to fill a pint bowl, closely packed. -Put the bread into a deep dish, and pour boiling water upon it. While -the bread is soaking, mix in a crock or jar a pint of milk, and a pint -of wheat flour. Put the soaked bread into a cullender, and let the water -drain off. When the water is drained away, beat the bread _lightly_ with -a fork, but do not press or mash it. Beat two eggs very light and thick, -and gradually stir them into the flour and milk. Then stir in the bread. -Bake the mixture on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes, and eat -them hot with butter. This quantity is for a small family of four -persons. - -For a family of moderate size, take a quart of stale bread, a quart of -milk, a quart of flour, and four eggs. - -For a large family, two quarts of bread, two quarts of milk, two quarts -of flour, and eight eggs. This quantity will not be more than sufficient -for a large family, as they will all like these cakes. - -If you have not enough of stale bread in the house, send for a stale -loaf, rather than not have the proper proportion for the cakes. - - -MILK BISCUIT.--Warm a pint of milk on the top of the stove, and cut up -in it half a pound of fresh butter, to soften, but not to melt. Sift -into a pan two quarts of flour; make a hole in the middle of the flour, -and pour into it the milk and butter. Beat two eggs till very thick and -smooth, and pour them in also. Lastly, pour into the hole two -wine-glasses of strong fresh brewer's or baker's yeast; or, three of -good home-made yeast. Mix altogether with a broad knife, till it becomes -a lump of soft dough. Then knead it well on your pasteboard, and make it -into round rolls or balls. Knead every ball separately. Flatten them -with your hand into thick biscuits, and prick every one with a fork. Lay -them separately in buttered square pans, and set them to rise. If all is -right, they will be light in little more than an hour. When quite light, -(risen high and cracked all over) set them in a moderate oven, and bake -them a light brown. They should be eaten quite fresh. - - -RUSK.--Sift a quart of flour into a pan. Make a hole in the centre, and -pour in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, cut up and softened in -half a pint of milk warmed on the stove. Beat two eggs very light, and -mix them gradually into the hole in the pan of flour, in turn with a -small wine-glass of rose water; or a table-spoonful of the rose water if -as strong as it should be, adding a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace, -nutmeg, and cinnamon. Lastly, a wine-glass and a half of fresh brewer's -yeast. Mix those articles well into the flour, till it becomes a lump of -soft dough. Knead it well on your pasteboard, and divide it into pieces -of equal size. Knead each piece separately. Form them so as to be tall -and high, when finished. Butter an iron pan, lay the rusks in it side by -side, and set them in a warm place to rise again. When quite light, bake -them in a moderate oven, and sift sugar over them when cool. - - -DRY RUSKS.--Dry rusks are used for infant's food, and for invalids. They -are made plain, without any butter, spice, or rose water, and after -being once baked are split, and baked over till they are all crisp and -browned on the inside. Use them dissolved, by pouring on a little warm -water or milk, and beat them with a spoon to a thick pap. - - -CROSS BUNS.--Pick clean a pound and a half of dried or Zante currants; -wash, drain, and dry them on a large flat dish placed in a slanting -position near the fire, or in the sun. It will be still better to -substitute for the currants a pound of Sultana (or seedless) raisins, -each raisin cut in half. When quite dry, dredge the fruit _thickly_ with -flour to prevent their sinking or clodding in the cake. Sift into a deep -pan two quarts of flour, and mix thoroughly with it a table-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon, and three quarters of a pound of powdered sugar. Cut -up three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter, into a large half pint of -rich milk. Warm it till the butter is quite soft, but not till it melts. -Make a hole in the centre of the pan of flour, and pour in the mixed -liquid, adding a jill (or two wine-glasses) of strong fresh yeast. Mix -in the flour by degrees, beginning round the edge of the hole, and -proceed gradually till you have the whole mass of ingredients well -incorporated. Cover the pan with a clean thick towel, and set it in a -warm place to rise. When it has risen high, and is cracked all over, mix -in a small tea-spoonful of dissolved soda. Flour your pasteboard, divide -the dough into equal portions, mix in the plums, and _slightly_ knead it -into round cakes the size of a small saucer. Place them on a large dish, -cover them, and set them again to rise in a warm place for half an hour. -Mark every one deeply with a cross, bake them brown, and when done brush -each bun lightly over with a glazing of white of egg, sweetened with -sugar. - - -CINNAMON BREAD.--On a bread-baking day, (having made more than your -usual quantity of wheat bread,) when the dough has risen quite light, -and is cracked all over the surface, take out as much as will weigh two -pounds. Mix into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, that has been -cut up and melted in a half pint of milk; and also, three beaten eggs. -Incorporate the butter, milk, and egg, thoroughly with the dough, and -then add (dissolved in a little tepid water,) a salt-spoonful (_not -more_) of soda. Have ready mixed in a bowl a pint of _brown_ sugar, -moistened with fresh butter, so as to make a stiff paste, and flavor it -with two heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon. Form the cake into -the shape of a round loaf, and make deep incisions or cuts all over its -surface; filling them up with the cinnamon mixture pressed hard into the -cuts, pinching and closing the dough over them with your thumb and -finger to prevent the seasoning running out. Put the loaf into a round -pan, and set it into the oven to bake with the other bread. When cool, -glaze it over with white of egg, in which some powdered sugar has been -dissolved. Send it to table whole in form, but cut into loose slices. -Eat it fresh. All yeast cakes become dry and hard the next day. - -This mixture may be baked in a square iron pan, and cut into square -cakes when cool. - - -WAFFLES.--We are indebted to the Germans for this cake, which, if this -receipt is exactly followed, will be found excellent. Warm a quart of -milk, and cut up in it a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, -and stir it about to soften in the warm milk. Beat eight eggs till very -thick and smooth, and stir them gradually into the milk and butter, in -turn with half a pound of sifted flour. Then add two table-spoonfuls of -strong fresh brewer's or baker's yeast. Cover the pan with a clean thick -cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When the batter has risen -nearly to the top, and is covered with bubbles, it is time to bake; -first stirring in a wine-glass of rose-water. Having heated your -waffle-iron in a good fire, grease it inside with the fresh butter used -for the waffle mixture, or with fresh lard; fill it, and shut the iron -closely. Turn it on the fire, that both sides of the cake may be equally -well done. Each side will require about three minutes baking. Take them -out of the iron by slipping a knife underneath. Then grease and prepare -the iron for another waffle. Butter them, and send them to the tea-table -"hot and hot;" and, to eat with this, a bowl or glass dish of sugar -flavored with powdered cinnamon. - -In buying waffle irons choose them _very deep_, so as to make a good -impression when baked--if shallow, the waffle will look thin and poor. -Those that bake one waffle at a time are the handsomest and most -manageable. - - -SOFT CRULLERS.--Sift a pound and a half of flour, and have ready a pound -of powdered sugar. Heat in a round-bottomed sauce-pan a quart of water; -and when quite warm, stir the flour gradually into the water. In another -vessel set a pound of nice fresh butter over the fire, and when it -begins to melt, stir it, by degrees, into the flour and water. Then add, -gradually, the powdered sugar, and a grated nutmeg. Take the sauce-pan -off the fire, and beat the contents with a wooden spaddle, (which is far -better than a spoon) till they are thoroughly mixed. Next, having -beaten six eggs till very thick and light, stir them, gradually, into -the mixture, and then beat the whole very hard till it becomes a thick -batter. Add rose-water or lemon juice. Flour a pasteboard, and lay out -the batter upon it in the form of rings. The best and easiest way is to -pass it through a screw funnel. - -Have ready on the fire a pot of boiling lard. Put in the crullers, -taking them off the board one at a time, on a broad-bladed knife. Boil -but a few at a time. They must be of a fine brown. Lift them out with a -perforated skimmer, draining back the lard into the pot. Lay them on a -large dish, and dredge them with sugar. - -These, if properly managed, are far superior to all other crullers, but -they cannot be made in warm weather. - - -DOUGH-NUTS.--On baking day, take two pounds of very light bread dough -that has been made in the usual manner. Put it into a broad pan. Rub -into it half a pound of fresh butter, and half a pound of powdered -sugar, and a table-spoonful of mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. Wet it with -half a pint of milk, and mix in three well beaten eggs. Cover it, and -set by the fire to rise again. When quite light, flour your pasteboard, -and make the dough into oval balls; or, you may cut it into diamond -shapes, (handling it as little as possible.) Have ready, over the fire, -a pot of boiling lard. Drop the dough-nuts into it, and boil them; or -fry them brown in a frying-pan. Take them out one by one in a -perforated skimmer, draining back the lard into the pan. Spread them on -a large dish, and sift sugar over them. Eat them fresh; when heavy and -stale they are not fit. This is a German cake. - - -COMMON CRULLERS.--The above mixture for dough-nuts will make good -crullers. Flour your pasteboard, lay the dough upon it, roll it very -thick, and cut it into strips with a jagging iron. Take off short -pieces, and twist them into various forms. Throw them into a pot of -boiling lard. When done, drain the lard from them, spread them on a -large dish, and dredge them with powdered white sugar. - -The Alpistera is a Spanish cruller, shaped like the five fingers united -at the wrist. - - - - -PLAIN DESSERTS. - - -MOLASSES PUDDING.--Sift into a pan a large quart of yellow indian meal. -Simmer over the fire a quart of milk, a pint of _West India molasses_, -stirred in while the milk is hot. Put the milk and molasses into a large -pan, and mix gradually into them the corn meal while they are quite -warm. Add a large table-spoonful of ground ginger, and a heaped -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Beat the whole mixture long and -hard, for on that will chiefly depend the lightness of the pudding, as -it has neither eggs, butter, nor yeast. If your batter seems too thin, -add, gradually, a little more corn meal; if too thick, a little more -milk and molasses. - -Dip in hot water a large square pudding cloth. Spread it out in a pan, -dredge it well with flour, and then pour the pudding-mixture into it. -Tie it up, making the string very secure, but leave plenty of room -between the batter and the tying place, for the pudding to swell in -boiling, at least one-third. Put the pudding, directly, into a large -pot, and keep it steadily boiling for about three hours. Corn meal -requires long cooking. Turn the pudding twice with a fork. If the water -boils away too much, replenish it from a tea-kettle of hot water, kept -boiling for the purpose. If you pour in _cold_ water the pudding will -become hard and heavy, and be totally spoiled. Do not turn it out and -send it to table till wanted at dinner. Then dip it for a moment in cold -water, untie the string, and transfer it to a dish with a cover. Eat it -with molasses and butter; or make a sauce of drawn butter, flavored with -wine and nutmeg. - -This pudding, if properly mixed, well beaten, and well boiled, will be -as light as if made with eggs, (the _West India_ molasses having that -property) and it will cut down rough or open grained, like a very light -sponge cake, unless the batter has been made too thick and stiff, and -not sufficiently beaten, and not allowed space enough to swell in -boiling. If made _too thin_, or not boiled well, the pudding will come -out a soft, shapeless mass. But if all is carefully managed, this (the -least costly of American puddings) will be found excellent for a plain -table, and perfectly wholesome. The flavor will be much improved by -adding to the cinnamon and ginger the grated yellow rind and juice of an -orange or lemon. If your first attempt at this pudding is a failure, try -it again--practice makes perfect. - -For a large family, have two quarts of corn meal, two quarts of milk, -and one quart of _West India_ molasses; two table-spoonfuls of ginger, -and one of cinnamon. - -What is left may be tied in a cloth, and boiled over again next day, for -half an hour or longer. - - -MOLASSES PIE.--Make a plain paste, allowing a quart of flour to a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pound of lard. -Cut up the butter into the pan of flour, and rub it into a dough, with a -half tumbler of cold water. Too much water is injurious to any paste, -rendering it tough and hard. Roll out the paste into a sheet, and with a -broad knife spread all over it one-half of the lard. Sprinkle it with -flour, fold it, and roll it out again. Spread on the remainder of the -lard, dredge it slightly, fold it again, and then divide it into two -sheets. Line with one sheet the inside of a pie-dish, and fill it with -molasses, mixed with butter, and flavored with ginger and cinnamon, or -lemon or orange. Put on the other sheet of paste as a lid to the pie. -Crimp or notch the edges. Bake it of a pale brown, and send it to table -fresh, but not hot. - - -MOLASSES POT-PIE.--Make plenty of paste, allowing to _each quart_ of -flour a small half pound of finely minced suet. Line the pot -three-quarters up the sides with paste, and put in a quart of West India -molasses, flavored with ginger and cinnamon, lemon or orange grating, -and juice. Cover it with a lid of paste, _not fitting closely_ round its -edges, and cut a cross slit in the top. Have ready six or eight extra -pieces of suet paste, cut into squares, and boiled by themselves. When -the pie is done, put these little cakes (ready boiled) into the -molasses, having removed the lid or cover of the pie, and cut it up. -Take out the inside paste, and cut it in pieces also. Serve up the whole -in one large dish. - - -BATTER PUDDING.--Having beaten eight eggs till very thick and smooth, -stir them gradually into a pan of milk, in turn with eight -table-spoonfuls of flour, added by degrees. Give the whole a hard -stirring at last. Dip a square pudding cloth into hot water, shake it -out, dredge it with flour, and spread it over the inside of an empty -pan. Pour the pudding mixture into it. Gather up the cloth, leaving -ample space for the pudding to swell in boiling, and securing the -string tightly. Put the pudding into a large pot of boiling water, and -boil it fast and steadily for two hours. Turn it with a large fork once -or twice while boiling. When done, dip it for a moment in cold water, -that you may turn it out easily. Send it to table hot, and eat it with -any sauce you like, from molasses, or butter and sugar, to wine sauce. -This, if exactly followed, is the very best receipt for a plain batter -pudding. It may be made of corn meal, or wheat bread-crumbs, (eight -table-spoonfuls to eight eggs, and one quart of milk.) Corn meal -requires with it one or two spoonfuls of wheat flour for this pudding. - -We cannot approve of boiling batter puddings in moulds, as they are -rarely allowed sufficient space for swelling, and are therefore tough -and solid. Also, it is frequently very difficult to get a hot pudding -out of a mould. - -The above pudding is very nice baked in the dripping pan under a piece -of roast beef or veal. - - -FRITTERS.--Make the same mixture as for batter pudding. Eight eggs -beaten very light and thick, and stirred gradually into a quart of milk, -in turn with eight spoonfuls of flour; and, when all are united, beat -the whole very hard. In a large frying-pan melt a pound of lard, and -when it comes to a boil, put in with a large spoon a half tea-cupful of -batter. Fry them fast, a panful at a time, and as they require no -stirring they will soon be done. For the next panful, add half a pound -more of lard, and see that it is boiling well all the time. If there is -not enough of lard, or if it only simmers, the fritters will stick to -the bottom, and be heavy, dark, and greasy. Send them to table "hot and -hot," sprinkled with sugar. Eat them with sugar, cinnamon, and white -wine. This is the best possible receipt for plain fritters. - - -ORANGE FRITTERS.--For frying fruit fritters use nice fresh butter. Peel, -and cut into round slices (not very thin) some fine oranges, removing -the seeds carefully. Put into each fritter (while frying) a slice of -orange, and dredge with sugar. Eat them with sweetened orange juice. -These are fritters for company. - - -PEACH FRITTERS.--Take large ripe free-stone peaches, the best you can -get. Peel them, cut them in half, remove the stones, and put some loaf -sugar into the cavities from whence you took them. Have ready, in a -large frying-pan over the fire, an ample quantity of nice fresh butter, -boiling fast. Put in the batter, and to every spoonful allow half a -peach, laid on its back. When done take them up separately, and drain -the butter back into the pan. Serve up the fritters dredged with white -sugar. You may color these fritters pink by mixing in the batter a -little prepared alkanet, the chips tied up in a thin muslin bag, and -laid in a small saucer of sweet oil. Stir the colored oil into the -batter; it has no taste, but the color is beautiful. Fritters may be -colored green by mixing in the batter some of the juice obtained from -pounded spinach leaves. - - -APPLE OR QUINCE FRITTERS.--Pare and core some pippin or bell-flower -apples, or ripe quinces. Cut them into round slices, and fry one in -every fritter. Eat them with sweetened lemon juice. You may make -fritters with a large table-spoonful of any thick marmalade in the -centre. Or, with a large fresh oyster in the middle of each. Or, with a -table-spoonful of minced meat. These, also, are company fritters. - - -PANCAKES--Are very inferior to good fritters, and much more troublesome -to bake. They are the same ingredients mixed thinner; are also fried in -lard, and must be turned by tossing them over (one at a time) in the -frying-pan. - - -JUNKET.--Having turned a quart of rich milk, by stirring into it a half -tea-cupful of the water in which two or three square inches of rennet -has been soaked for several hours, set the milk in a covered pitcher, in -a warm place, till it becomes a firm curd, the whey separating from it, -and looking thin and greenish. Keep it on ice till just before it is -wanted for table. Then transfer it to a large bowl, and sweeten it well -with white sugar. Mix in two glasses of sweet wine, and grate over it a -nutmeg. It is very nice with extract of vanilla added to the wine, &c. - -It is not a good way to preserve a rennet by cutting it into little -pieces, and keeping it in wine, stirring the wine into milk when you -wish to form a curd. If turned with rennet wine, the curd will never -separate completely from the whey, which will therefore be always thick -and whitish. By using rennet water, the whey will be pure, thin, and of -a light green, and the curd very white and firm. In Philadelphia market, -dried rennets (which will keep a year or two hanging up in a cool dry -closet) are universally used to make curds, and are always to be bought -at small prices. They are cured by salting them, and stretching on a -bent rod. To use this rennet, cut off a small bit, and soak it several -hours, or over night, in a cup of lukewarm water. Then stir this water -into the milk. - - -MILK POTTAGE OR FARMER'S RICE.--Take some rich milk, and put it on to -boil in a pot of sufficient size. When it has begun to boil, stir in, by -degrees, enough of wheat flour to make it about as thick as the general -consistence of rice milk, and boil it well, stirring it frequently down -to the bottom. Add a few blades of mace, or some powdered cinnamon. -Knead together some flour and fresh butter, forming a lump of white -paste. Divide the paste into small round dumplings about the size of a -cent, and put them to boil with the milk. When the pottage is well -boiled, take it up, and transfer it to a tureen or deep white-ware dish, -and make it very sweet with good brown sugar. Grate some nutmeg over the -surface. - -This is an excellent addition to a winter supper-table, and is much -liked by children, for whom it is also good at the end of a plain -dinner. As a substitute for rice milk, it is better and more wholesome -than rice itself. - - -PLAIN RICE PUDDING.--Pick some rice, carefully removing from it the -husks, and all impurities; and if you find it the least sour or musty, -throw it away, and get some that is perfectly good. Wash it through two -or three waters, till it drains off quite clean. Stir a quarter of a -pound of this rice into a quart of good rich milk. If the milk is poor -and thin, and has been skimmed till it is blue, or mixed with water, the -pudding will be poor accordingly. In the country where cream is easily -to be obtained, add some to the milk which you use for the rice pudding. -Stir in also a quarter of a pound of good brown sugar, and a -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Set the pudding into an oven, and -bake till a brown skin covers the surface, and the rice is quite soft, -which you may ascertain by lifting a bit of the brown skin from the edge -and trying the rice. Eat it warm or cold. It is usual in the country to -put several of these rice puddings into the oven on baking days. - -They will be greatly improved by the addition of two or three beaten -eggs, and a few bits of fresh butter, stirred in with the rice and -sugar. Also powdered cinnamon. Rice is in itself so tasteless, that it -requires good flavoring. - - -PLAIN BOILED RICE PUDDING.--Pick, wash, and drain a pound of rice. -Moisten it with a quart of milk. Have ready a pound of seedless raisins. -Dredge them well all over with flour to prevent their sinking. Stir them -gradually into the rice and milk. Boil it in a cloth, leaving ample -space for it to swell. Keep the water very hot all the time. Eat it with -butter and sugar, seasoned with ground cinnamon. - - -RICE CUPS.--Boil in water, in the usual manner, a pound or more of -cleaned rice till it is perfectly soft. Drain it well, and mix it with a -quart of milk, seasoned with a mixed table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon -and nutmeg or mace. Boil it a second time till all the grains are -dissolved into a smooth mass, and their form cannot be distinguished. -Mould it in large tea-cups, pint bowls, or blanc-mange moulds; and when -it has taken the desired form, turn it out on dishes, and serve up with -it a small tureen of wine sauce, or of boiled custard made very sweet, -and seasoned, by boiling in the milk of which the custard was made a -few peach leaves, or some bitter almonds broken up, or a broken-up stick -of cinnamon, to be taken out when it is done. - - -BREAD PUDDING.--Grate or crumble as much stale wheat bread (omitting the -crust) as will fill a pint bowl when done. Boil a pint of good milk with -a broken-up stick of cinnamon in it. Strain the milk, and pour it -(boiling) over the bread. Sweeten it with three large table-spoonfuls of -sugar. Stir in one or two large table-spoonfuls of fresh butter. Beat -four eggs till very thick and smooth, and add them, gradually, to the -mixture, when it is lukewarm. It will be much improved by the grated -peel and juice of a lemon or orange. Bake it in a deep dish or mould; -sift white sugar over it. Eat it warm, with sweet sauce flavored with -nutmeg. - - -BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING.--Cut large even slices of yesterday's bread, -(_leaving on_ the crust) and spread them well with fresh butter. Strew -over them thickly half a pound of Zante currants, picked and washed. -Make a batter of four beaten eggs and a large pint of milk, seasoned -with powdered nutmeg or mace. Pour some of this batter into the bottom -of a deep white dish. Then put on as many slices of bread and currants -as will cover the bottom. Next, add the remainder of the batter, and -finish with slices of bread and butter strewed with currants. Bake till -the batter is set and firm. When done, serve it up warm. - - -A BROWN BETTY.--Pare, core, and slice thin some fine _juicy_ apples. -Cover with the apples the bottom of a large deep white-ware dish. -Sweeten them well with plenty of brown sugar; adding grated lemon or -orange peel. Strew over them a thick layer of bread-crumbs, and add to -the crumbs a _very few_ bits of fresh butter. Then put in another layer -of cut apples and sugar, followed by a second layer of bread-crumbs and -butter. Next more apples and sugar; then more bread-crumbs and butter; -repeat this till the dish is full, finishing it with bread-crumbs. Bake -it till the apples are entirely done and quite soft. Send it to table -hot. It will be improved (if in the country at cider-making season) by -adding to each layer of apples a very little sweet unfermented cider, -fresh from the press. - -This pudding is in some places called an Apple Pandowdy. We believe it -is Brown Betty in the South; Pandowdy in the North. It is a good plain -pudding if the butter is fresh and sweet, and not too much of it. The -apples must be _juicy_ and _not_ sweet. Sweet apples never cook well. - - -SWEETENED SWEET POTATOS.--The sweet potatos should be all about the same -size, or else so large as to require splitting. Boil them till, on -probing them with a fork, you find them soft all through. Peel off the -skin, and trim off the sharp points of each end. Place them in a large -baking dish, and lay among them some pieces of fresh butter; sprinkle -powdered sugar _profusely_ over them and among them, especially in the -vacancies between the potatos. Set the dish into a moderate oven, and -bake slowly till the butter and sugar are all melted and blended -together, forming a nice crust. They should be eaten not with the meat, -but _after_ it. They make a good supper or luncheon dish, and a plain -dessert at dinner for plain-living people. - -Sufficient butter and sugar will make the crust like a thick syrup, when -broken. They should be cooked this way only when in the height of their -season, and perfectly fresh and nice. When sweet potatos are old enough -to decay at the ends, give them up. Large sweet potatos may be first -boiled; then peeled and sliced thick, sprinkled thick with sugar, and -fried in fresh butter or lard; the lard well drained from them as they -are taken up. Eat _them_ with meat. - -They are good boiled very soft, peeled and sent to table mashed, (while -hot) with fresh butter--or made into thick flat cakes, and browned on -the top. - -It is a great waste to bake sweet potatos whole. If baked enough, (as -they seldom are) they "go all to skin." - - -APPLE DUMPLINGS.--For dumplings the apples should be large and -juicy--pippins, bellflowers, or the best you can get. Small sweet apples -make very poor dumplings. Having pared the apples, extract the cores -with a tin apple-corer, so as to leave them smooth and whole. Why is it -that so many families "have never had an apple corer in their house?" -They cost, at the utmost, but twenty-five cents, are to be had at all -the tinsmiths' and furnishing stores; and they screw out an apple core -in a minute; saving time and trouble. The apples being ready, make a -nice paste in the proportion of a small pint of finely-minced suet, to a -large quart of flour; one-half of the suet rubbed into the pan of flour, -(adding _a very little_ water) the other half sliced thin, and spread -all over the sheet of dough after it is rolled out; then folding it, and -rolling it out again. Cut the sheet of dough in as many circular pieces -as you have apples, allowing them large enough to close entirely over -the top, and rolling it thick enough to hold the apple securely without -danger of its breaking through. Put an apple on every piece of paste, -and fill with brown sugar the hole from whence the core was taken. -Squeeze on the sugar some fresh lemon juice, with the grated yellow -rind; or, add some powdered nutmeg or mace, or some rose-water. This -will make them very nice. They should be boiled in small cloths kept -clean for the purpose, dipped in hot water, and sprinkled with flour, -and room left for the dumpling to swell. Put them into a pot of boiling -water, and boil them steadily for near an hour. Serve them up very hot, -as they become heavy when cold. Eat with them butter and sugar, or cream -sauce. - - -PEACH DUMPLINGS.--Take large fine free-stone peaches. Peel them, cut -them in half, and extract the stones; fill the sockets with white sugar, -and put the two halves together. Make a nice suet paste, or, if more -convenient, of butter, but it must be quite fresh, and very nice. Allow -half a pound of butter to a large quart (or a pound) of sifted flour. -Rub half the butter into the pan of flour, and make it into a dough, -with a very little cold water. Too much water always makes tough heavy -paste. Then roll the paste into a sheet, and put on it with a knife the -remainder of the butter in regular bits. Fold it, roll it out again, and -divide it into circular pieces. Lay a peach on each. Gather up the dough -over the top, so as to form a well-shaped dumpling. Boil them in cloths -for full three-quarters of an hour or more. Eat them with cream sauce. - -Dumplings of raspberries, or blackberries, may be made as above. Also, -of gooseberries or currants, made very sweet. Quinces preserved whole -make excellent dumplings. - - -APPLE PUDDINGS--Are made like large dumplings, with suet paste, and -flavored with lemon, or rose, or nutmeg. The apples must be sliced. The -pudding should be tied in a cloth; put into a pot of fast-boiling water, -kept steadily boiling for two hours or more, and sweetened with brown -sugar as soon as it is taken up, cutting a round piece of paste out of -the top, and putting in with the sugar a small piece of fresh butter. - -Large puddings may be made in this manner of stoned cherries, damsons, -or plums, or of gooseberries, or currants--allowing plenty of fruit, and -making it very sweet; besides sending sugar to table with it. - - -ROLLED PUDDING.--Have ready a quart or more of apples stewed with _very -little_ water, sweetened with brown sugar, and flavored with lemon or -rose. Prepare a nice suet paste. Roll it out, and cut it into a square -sheet. Spread it _thickly_ with the stewed fruit, (not extending the -fruit quite to the edges of the dough) and roll it up as far as it will -go. Close it nicely at each end. Tie it in a cloth, dipped in hot water -and floured, and put it into a fast-boiling pot. Boil it well. Cut it -down in round slices. Eat it with butter and sugar beaten together, or -with cream sauce. You may make this pudding of any sort of thick -marmalade, spread over the sheet of paste; or, with ripe uncooked -currants, raspberries, or blackberries, mashed raw, sweetened, and -spread on thickly. This pudding is the same that common English people -call a "Jack in a blanket;" and sometimes "a Dog in a blanket." The -_blanket_ is supposed to mean the paste; the _dog_ is probably the -fruit. - - -FRUIT POT-PIES.--These are made in a pot lined with paste, interspersed -with small squares of the same dough, and covered with a paste lid. The -filling is of dried apples, peaches quartered, blackberries, -raspberries, ripe currants, or gooseberries; all well sweetened, and -cooked in their own juice, with a small tea-cupful of water at the -bottom to "start them." Both fruit and paste must be perfectly well -done. - -Fruit pot-pies are easier made and cooked, than fruit puddings or -dumplings. We recommend them highly for plain tables. They require more -sugar when they are dished. A large _bain-marie_ is excellent for -cooking any sort of pot-pie, the water being all in the outside kettle. - - -PLAIN BAKED CUSTARD.--Boil a quart of milk, with a small bunch of green -peach leaves in it, or a half dozen of peach kernels broken up. When the -milk has boiled well strain it into a broad pan, and set it away to -cool. In a shallow pan beat six eggs till very light, thick, and smooth. -Stir them, gradually, into the milk, in turn with a tea-cup of white -sugar, and a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon or mace. Transfer the -mixture to a deep white dish, set it into the oven, and bake it till -the top is well browned, but not scorched. When done, set it away to -cool, and grate nutmeg over the surface. - - -BOILED CUSTARD.--Make exactly the above mixture; but instead of baking, -boil it in a porcelain lined sauce-pan, stirring it all the time. As -soon as it comes to a boil, take it immediately from the fire, or it -will curdle. Put it into a glass or china pitcher, and set it to cool. A -_bain-marie_ is excellent for boiled custard. - -If custards are baked in cups, set them in an iron pan half full of warm -water. If too hot, or kept baking too long, they will be tough and -porous, and have whey at the bottom. So they will if the milk is warm -when the eggs are added. Good custards will cut down to the very bottom -as smooth and firm as the best blanc-mange. - - -APPLES BAKED WHOLE.--Never bake apples without paring and coring. They -will be found nearly all skin and core, and are troublesome and -inconvenient to eat. Have fine large apples; take off a thin paring, and -extract the core with a tin corer. Fill up the holes with brown sugar. -Place the apples, side by side, in a square tin pan, set them in an -oven, and bake them till, when tried with a fork, you find them soft all -through. Send them to table warm, but not burning hot. If you have -country cream to eat with them, so much the better. - - -BAKED PEARS.--Take good-sized pears. Small ones are not worth the -trouble of cooking. Peel them, split them in half, and remove the core, -the stem, and the blossom end. Strew them well with brown sugar, and lay -them on their backs in a large baking dish. A narrow slip of the yellow -rind of lemon or orange, (cut so thin as to look transparent,) will be a -great improvement, laid in the hollow of each pear. Also the juice -squeezed. Put into the dish sufficient molasses or steam-syrup to well -cover the pears. Place them in an oven, and bake them till they are -soft, but not till they break. If you have no lemon or orange, season -them with ground ginger or cinnamon. - -The great pound pears are baked as above, with the addition of port wine -and a few cloves, and colored red with a little cochineal. - - -COUNTRY CHARLOTTE.--Slice or quarter some fine juicy apples, having -pared and cored them. Put them on a large dish, sweeten them well with -brown sugar, set them in the oven, and bake them till soft enough to -mash smoothly. Then cut some slices of bread, butter them slightly, and -dip every one in sweet cider fresh from the press. Let them soak in the -cider a short time, but not till they break. Take them out of the -cider, spread every one thickly with the mashed apple, (sprinkling on -more sugar) and send them to the dinner table in a deep dish or pan. - - -A PLAIN CHARLOTTE.--Stew very nicely any sort of ripe fruit, (currants, -gooseberries, blackberries, stoned cherries, or stoned plums,) and as -soon as you take them from the fire make them very sweet with brown -sugar. Prepare some large slices of buttered bread, with the crust pared -off. Cover each slice thickly with the stewed fruit. Lay some in the -bottom of a deep dish, and stand up others all round its sides. Fill up -the dish with the same, and sift white sugar over the surface. - -It may be made of sliced sponge-cake, spread thickly with stewed dried -peaches. - - -GOOSEBERRY FOOL.--This foolish name signifies an excellent preparation -of gooseberries; stewed, mashed, and made very sweet with brown sugar. -Have ready in another dish a good boiled custard. When all has become -cool, mix well together in a large bowl the stewed gooseberries and the -custard, and season the mixture well with nutmeg. It will be found very -good. - -Any other "fool" may be made in the same manner, of stewed fruit and -boiled custard. It saves the trouble and expense of making paste, or -can be prepared at a shorter notice. It is good either at dinner or -tea. - -We hope somebody will think of a better name for it. - - -POTATO PASTE.--Boil three moderate-sized potatos till very soft. Then -peel and mash them fine and smooth. Put them into a deep pan, and mix -them well with a quart of flour and a half pint of lard; or what is -better, with that quantity of beef dripping, or the dripping of fresh -roast pork. Never for any sort of crust use mutton dripping. Having -mixed the mashed potato, dripping, and flour into a lump, roll it out -into a thick sheet. Sprinkle it with flour, and spread over it evenly a -thin layer of dripping or lard. Fold it again, and set it in a cool -place till wanted. It is good for meat pies, and for boiled meat -pudding, or any sort of dumplings. - - -VERY PLAIN PIE-CRUST.--Sift a quart of flour into a pan. Mix together, -with a knife, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a quarter of a -pound of lard, and when they are well blended mix them with the flour, -and form them into a dough with as little water as possible--the water -being very cold. Use ice water in summer. Avoid touching the paste with -your hands, but use a knife almost entirely. If your hand is warm, do -not rub butter into flour with it, but manage all the mixing with a -knife. If you have a cool hand, you may rub the butter into the flour, -and reserve the lard to spread all over the sheet of dough. Roll it out -lightly. Dredge with flour, fold it, spread on the lard, and roll it -again. Divide it into two pieces, and roll out each of them. Trim the -edges nicely, and make them to fit your pie-dish. If one is for bottom -crust, roll it out thinnest towards the centre, having for this part of -the process a very small rolling-pin, but a finger long. Grease with -lard a deep dish, or soup plate, and line it with the bottom crust. Fill -it up with the fruit you intend for the pie, sweetened well with brown -sugar, and heaping the fruit high in the centre. Cover it with a lid of -paste, trim, and notch the edges neatly, and make a cross slit in the -top; set it in the oven, and bake it steadily till it is a light brown. -When it seems to be done, lift up a small piece at one side to try if -the fruit is soft. Apples for pies should be pared, cored, and sliced -very thin. If green, stew them before they are baked. - -If you have saved enough of the dripping of roast beef, veal, or pork, -(skimmed and put away in a covered crock) it will be good shortening for -common pies--far superior to salt butter, and much lighter. Salt renders -pastry hard and heavy. - -Never use suet for _baked_ paste. It is only for dumplings and pot-pies. -Bread dough, or any dough made with yeast, is not good when boiled, -becoming tough and leathery, and being very unwholesome. - -Except in very plain country places a fruit pie, with two crusts, -(under and upper) is now seen but rarely. _Meat_ pies, or birds, -however, should have two crusts. The gravy is a great improvement to the -under one. English people usually make their fruit pies with a top-crust -only, putting a turned down tea-cup under the centre of the lid to -collect the juice, (of course removing the cup when the pie is cut.) It -is a good method in a country where the cost of flour is high. - -Too much economy in the shortening will infallibly make the crust very -poor, hard, heavy, and unwholesome. If you cannot afford dessert paste, -do not attempt pies at all; but substitute a plain charlotte, or slices -of bread and butter, covered with stewed fruit, sweetened, and laid in a -deep dish. - - -COMMON FRUIT PIES.--Make the paste as above. For baking, use only apples -that are juicy, and rather sour. If green, stew them before they are put -in the pie, and make them very sweet with brown sugar. Peaches should be -peeled and quartered, leaving out the stones. Of cherries, take the -large red juicy pie cherries. Black cherries, (when baked) go all to -stones, and they are not worth the trouble of cooking, though very good -when eaten from the trees. Currants must be carefully stripped from the -stems, and made very sweet. Gooseberries must be "top and tailed," and -require great sweetening; so do cranberries. Blackberries make good -plain pies, and are very juicy if ripe. All pies should be well filled. - -Pies may be made of ripe wild grapes, stewed in molasses or maple sugar. - - -EXCELLENT PLAIN PASTE.--Sift into a deep pan a quart and a pint of the -best superfine flour. Have ready (set on ice, and covered with a thick -double cloth) a pound of the very best fresh butter. When you want to -use it, cut it into four quarters. Cut one quarter into very little -bits, and with a broad knife mix it well into the flour, adding, by -degrees, a very little water, no more than half a tumbler. Some flour, -however, requires more water than others. Avoid touching the dough with -your hands, in case they should be warm. Take out the lump of dough, -dredge it with flour, and lay it on your pasteboard. Keep on a plate -near you a little extra flour for sprinkling and rolling. Roll out the -sheet of dough very thin, having floured the rolling-pin to prevent its -sticking. Place, with a knife, the second quarter of butter in little -bits all over the sheet of paste, at equal distances. Then fold it -square, (covering the butter with the corners of paste) dredge it, and -roll it out again to receive the third quarter of butter. Repeat this -again, till all the butter is in; always rolling very fast, and pressing -on _lightly_. You will see, towards the last, the paste puffing into -little blisters all over the surface; a sign of success. When the last -layer of butter is all in, roll the whole into a large sheet; roll it -round like a scroll, and put it away in a cold place, but not so cold -as to freeze it, for it will then be spoiled. When you are ready for it -bring it out, cut it down, and roll out each piece ready for use. There -is no better family paste than this, for all sorts of pies; meat or bird -pies, especially. - - -LEMON BREAD PUDDING.--Mince very fine a quarter of a pound of beef suet. -Have ready a pint and a half of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Prepare the -yellow rind of a large lemon, grated off from the white skin beneath, -and squeeze the juice among it. Mix together in a deep pan the -bread-crumbs and suet, adding four or five table-spoonfuls of powdered -sugar, and a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, cinnamon, nutmeg and mace. -Beat in a broad shallow pan five eggs till very smooth and thick. Add -them gradually to the other ingredients, a little at a time. Have ready -a square pudding-cloth, scalded and floured. Pour in the mixture, and -tie the cloth tightly, but not closely, as room must be left for the -pudding to swell in boiling. Put it into a pot of hot water, and boil it -steadily for two hours. Send wine sauce to table with it--or cold sauce, -of beaten butter, and sugar, and nutmeg. - -If you use butter instead of suet, you can bake this pudding. - - -PLAIN PLUM PUDDING.--This is for a small plain-living family. Chop very -fine half a pound of nice fresh beef suet. Stone a half pound of very -good raisins, or use the sultana or seedless sort. Dredge them well on -all sides with flour to prevent their sinking to the bottom. Grate the -yellow rind of a large fresh lemon, and strain the juice into the saucer -on which you have grated the rind. It will be still better if you use -the rind and juice of an orange as well as of a lemon. Put into a bowl -half a pint of grated bread-crumbs, and a heaped table-spoonful of -flour, and pour on them a half pint of boiling milk. Beat in a shallow -pan four eggs till very thick and light. Mix the suet gradually into the -bread, adding alternately the beaten egg, (a little at a time) the lemon -and orange, and four heaped table-spoonfuls of sugar. Lastly, stir in by -degrees, the raisins, well floured. Put the mixture into a square -pudding-cloth spread out into a deep pan, and dipped in boiling water. -Tie it securely, leaving room to swell. Boil it three hours. - -Eat with it a sauce of butter, sugar, and nutmeg, beaten together. - - - - -FINE DESSERTS. - - -THE BEST PUFF-PASTE.--To a pound of the best fresh butter allow a pound -of the finest flour, sifted into a deep pan. Have on a plate some -additional sifted flour for sprinkling and rolling in. Divide the pound -of butter into four equal parts, and three of those parts divide again -into two portions. Mix the first quarter of butter into the mass of -flour, cutting it with a broad-bladed knife. If your hands are naturally -warm, avoid touching the dough with them, as their heat will render it -heavy. Paste, to be very good, should be made on a marble slab. All -well-furnished kitchens or pastry rooms should be provided with -marble-topped tables, and marble mortars. Add gradually to the lump of -dough a _very little cold_ water, barely sufficient to moisten it with -the first quarter of butter, and mix it well with the aid of the broad -knife; but proceed as fast as you can, and do not work with it too long. -Too much water will render it tough, and too much working will make it -heavy. Then sprinkle the marble slab with some of the spare flour, take -the lump of paste from the pan, and roll it out into a sheet. Divide one -of the portions of butter into little bits, and with the knife disperse -them equally all over the sheet of paste. Then sprinkle it again with -flour, fold it up so as to cover the butter, and roll it out again. -Proceed in this manner till you have got in all the butter, rolling -always lightly, and you will soon see the surface of the dough puffing -up in little blisters, a sign that it is becoming light. Besides the -first mixing in the lump, the butter will then be put in with what are -called six turns. When baked, you will see that every turn makes a layer -or sheet. If you choose to multiply them, you may make nine sheets. We -have seen twelve. All this must be done fast and lightly. Then put away -the paste to cool for ten minutes before arranging it in the dishes. -This quantity will make two pies or four tarts. In baking, let the oven -be hot, and keep up a steady heat, so the paste may not fall after it -has first risen. When pale brown, it is done. - - -SHELLS.--For shells take the best puff paste, and line with it large -deep plates, the size of a soup-plate. They should have broad rims. -Notch the edges of the paste handsomely with a sharp penknife, and be -careful not to plaster on, afterwards, any bits by way of mending or -rectifying an error. When baked, every patch in the border will show -itself plainly. Bake the shells entirely empty, till pale brown all -over. When cool fill them, _quite up the top_, with whatever marmalade -or stewed fruit you have prepared for the purpose. In this way (baking -them empty,) the shells are thoroughly done, and not clammy and heavy at -the bottom, as they always are when filled _before_ baking. The fruit -requires no other cooking, having been done once already. Sift white -sugar over the surface. If for company whip some cream, sweeten it, and -flavor it with lemon, orange, pine-apple, strawberry or vanilla, and -pile it on the surface of the shell before it goes to table. - -Small tarts may, in this way, be baked empty, for patty-pans, and filled -with ripe fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or grated -pine-apple, made very sweet, and creamed on the top--or you may fill the -shells with any sort of sweetmeats, either preserves or marmalade, or -with mince-meat. Shells may be made thus, and filled with stewed -oysters, or reed-birds, cooked previously, and served up warm; or with -nicely-dressed lobster. You may make lids for them of the same paste -baked by itself on a shallow plate, and when taken off fitting well as a -cover to put on afterwards before sending to table. - - -BORDERS OF PASTE.--These are made of fine puff-paste cut into handsome -patterns, or wreaths of leaves or flowers. They are laid round the broad -edge of the deep plate that contains a rich pudding, such as lemon, -orange, almond, cocoa-nut, pine-apple, &c.; the dish being full down to -the bottom and up to the top, and having no paste but the border round -the edge. They must be baked in the dish on which they come to table, -and not in tin or iron, as the pudding cannot be transferred. At -handsome tables, a pudding baked with a paste _under_ it (lining the -dish,) is now seen but seldom. - -Instead of wreaths, you may make a puff-paste border by laying a thick -evenly cut band of paste round the flat rim of the dish, and notching -it, forming with a penknife small squares about an inch wide, and -turning one square up and one square down alternately, _cheveux de -frize_ fashion. Or you may make the squares near two inches wide and -turn over one corner sharp, leaving the other flat. This looks pretty -when baked, if the paste is _very puff_. - - -LEMON PUDDING.--To make two puddings take two fine large ripe lemons, -and rub them under your hand on a table. Grate off the thin yellow rind -upon a large lump of loaf sugar. Cut the lemon, and squeeze the juice -into a saucer through a strainer, to avoid the seeds. Put half a pound -of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, (including the sugar on -which you have rubbed the lemons) and cut up in it half a pound of the -best fresh butter, adding the juice. Stir them to a light cream with a -wooden spaddle, which is shorter than a mush-stick, and flattened at one -end; that end rather thin, and rather broad. Beat in a shallow pan, -(with hickory rods) six eggs, till very thick and smooth, and stir them -gradually into the mixture. Have ready some of the best puff-paste, made -in the proportion of a pint or half a pound of very nice fresh butter to -a pint or half a pound of sifted flour. Take china or white-ware dishes -with broad rims. Butter the rim, and lay round it neatly a border of the -paste. _Put no paste inside the dish beneath the mixture._ Fill each -dish to the top with the pudding mixture, and set it immediately into -the oven. It will bake in about half an hour When done, and browned on -the surface, set it to cool, and send it to table in the dish it was -baked in. - -Fine puddings are now made without an under crust, but merely a handsome -border of puff-paste laid round the edge, and helped with the pudding. -Sift sugar over the surface. This quantity will make one large pudding, -or two small ones. - -To almost all puddings the flavor of lemon or orange is an improvement. -A genuine _baked_ lemon pudding, (such as was introduced by the justly -celebrated Mrs. Goodfellow,) and is well known at Philadelphia dinner -parties, must have _no flour_ or bread whatever. The mixture only of -butter, sugar, and eggs, (with the proper flavoring) and when baked it -cuts down smooth and shining, like a nice custard. Made this way, they -are among the most delicious of puddings; but, of course, are not -intended for children or invalids. We have already given numerous -receipts for _plain_ family desserts. In this _chapter_ the receipts are -"for company." The author was _really_ a pupil of Mrs. Goodfellow's, and -for double the usual term, and while there took notes of every thing -that was made, it being the desire of the liberal and honest -instructress that her scholars _should learn in reality_. - - -ALMOND PUDDING.--Blanch in hot water a quarter of a pound of shelled -sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, and as you blanch them throw -them into a bowl of cold water. When all are thus peeled, take them out -singly, wipe them dry in a clean napkin, and lay them on a plate. Pound -them one at a time in a marble mortar till they become a smooth paste, -adding frequently a few drops of rose-water to make them light and -preserve their whiteness, mixing the bitter almonds with the sweet. As -you pound them, take out the paste and lay it in a saucer with a -tea-spoon. Without the rose-water they will become oily and -dark-colored. Without a few bitter almonds the others will be insipid. -The almonds may be thus prepared a day before they are wanted for use. -Cut up a large quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a large quarter of -a pound of powdered sugar, and stir them together with a spaddle till -very light and creamy. Add a large wine-glass of mixed wine and brandy, -and half a grated nutmeg. Beat, till they stand alone, the whites only -of six eggs, and stir them gradually into the butter and sugar, in turn -with the pounded almonds. Stir the whole very hard at the last. Put the -mixture into a deep dish with a broad rim, and fill it up to the top, -laying a border of puff-paste all round the rim. Serve up the pudding -cool, having sifted sugar over it. - -_Boiled Almond Pudding_--Is made as above; only with whole eggs, both -yolks and whites beaten together. Boil it in a _bain-marie_ or in a -thick square cloth, in a pot of boiling water. When done, turn it out -and send it to table warm. Eat it with sugar, wet with rose-water. - -_Orange Pudding_--Is made exactly like lemon pudding; the ingredients -in the same proportion, and baked without an under crust, having a -border of puff-paste all round the edge, and sent to table in the dish -it was baked in. These fine-baked puddings should have no addition -whatever of bread-crumbs or flour. They should cut down smooth and -glassy. - -_Boiled Lemon or Orange Pudding_--Make the foregoing mixture either with -two lemons or two oranges, adding to the other ingredients a half pint -finely-crumbled sponge cake. Boil the mixture either in a _bain-marie_ -or a thick pudding cloth, and serve it up warm. For sauce, have ready -butter and sugar beaten to a cream, and flavored well with lemon or -orange, and grated nutmeg. - - -COCOA-NUT PUDDING.--Break up a ripe cocoa-nut. Having peeled off the -brown skin, wash all the pieces of nut in cold water, and wipe them dry -on a clean napkin. Then grate the cocoa-nut _very fine_ into a pan, till -you have a quart. In a deep pan cut up a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, and add a very light quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. -Stir together (with a spaddle,) the butter and sugar till they are very -light and creamy, and add a grated nutmeg. Beat, (till they stand alone) -the _whites only_ of six eggs; the yolks may be reserved for soft -custards. Stir the beaten white of egg gradually into the pan of butter -and sugar, alternately with the grated cocoa-nut, a little at a time of -each, and a glass of mixed brandy and white wine. Stir the whole very -hard. Fill with it a broad-edged deep white dish, and lay a puff-paste -border all round the rim. Bake it light brown, and when cool sift white -sugar over it, serving it up in the dish it was baked in. - -_Boiled Cocoa-nut Pudding._--For this make the above mixture, and boil -it in a mould, or in a _bain-marie_, with the water in the outside -kettle. Eat it either warm or cold. - - -SWEET POTATO PUDDING.--Wash, boil, and peel some fine sweet potatos. -Mash them, and rub them through a coarse sieve--this will make them -loose and light. If merely _mashed_ the pudding will clod and be heavy. -In a deep pan stir to a cream a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and -a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; adding a grated nutmeg, a -tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a half glass of white wine, and a -half glass of brandy. Beat in a shallow pan three eggs, till very thick -and smooth, and stir them into the mixture of butter and sugar, -alternately with the sweet potato. At the last mix all thoroughly with a -very hard stirring. Put the mixture into a deep dish, and lay a border -of puff-paste all round the rim. Set the pudding immediately into a -rather brisk oven, and when cool sift white sugar over it. For two of -these puddings _double_ the quantities of all the ingredients. - -_White Potato Pudding_--Is made exactly as above. Chestnut pudding -also--the large Spanish chestnuts, boiled, peeled, and mashed. - -_Fine Pumpkin Pudding_--Also, allowing to the above ingredients a half -pint of stewed pumpkins, squeezed dry and rubbed through a sieve. - -_Cashaw Pudding._--A similar pudding may be made of stewed cashaw, or -winter squash. - - -PINE-APPLE TART.--Take a fine large ripe pine-apple. Remove the leaves, -and quarter it without paring, standing up each quarter in a deep plate, -and grating it down till you come to the rind. Strew plenty of powdered -sugar over the grated fruit. Cover it, and let it rest for an hour. Then -put it into a porcelain kettle, and steam it in its own syrup till -perfectly soft. Have ready some empty shells of puff-paste, baked either -in patty-pans or in soup plates. When they are cool, fill them full with -the grated pine-apple; add more sugar, and lay round the rim a border of -puff-paste. - - -QUINCE PIES.--Wash well, pare, and core some fine ripe quinces, having -cut out all the blemishes. Put the cores and parings into a small -sauce-pan, and stew them in a little water, till all broken to pieces. -Then strain and save the quince water. Having quartered the quinces, or -sliced them in round slices, transfer them to a porcelain stew-pan, and -pour over the quinces water extracted from boiling the cores and -parings. Let them cook in this till quite soft all through. Make them -very sweet with powdered sugar, and fill with them two deep soup plates -that have been baked empty, with a puff paste border round the rims. -Fill them up to the top, (they are already cooked) and sift sugar over -them--or, you may pile on the surface of each some ice-cream. You may -cook the quinces whole, and lay one on each tart. - - -FINE APPLE PIES--May be made in the same manner, flavored with the -grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon. The apples should be fine juicy -pippins. If done whole, lay one on each patty-pan tart, and stick into -the core hole a slip of the yellow rind of lemon, pared so thin as to be -nearly transparent. - - -A MERINGUE PUDDING.--Rub off upon a large lump of _sugar_ the yellow -rind of two fine ripe lemons, and mix it with a pound of powdered loaf -sugar, adding the juice. Whip, to a stiff froth, the _whites only_ of -eight eggs; and then, gradually, beat in the sugar and lemon, adding a -heaped table-spoonful of the finest flour. Spread part of the mixture -thickly over the bottom of a deep dish, the rim of which has been -bordered with a handsome wreath of puff-paste, and baked. Lay upon it a -thick layer of stiff currant or strawberry jelly. Then fill up the -dish, and set it, a few minutes in a rather cool oven to brown slightly. -This pudding is for dinner company. If you use oranges, omit half the -grated peel. - -You may flavor the meringue with vanilla. Split, and break up a small -vanilla bean, and boil it in a _very little_ cream till all the vanilla -flavor is extracted, the cream tasting of it strongly. Then strain it -well, and mix the vanilla cream with the white of egg. Or, a little -_home-made_ extract of vanilla will be still better. This is obtained by -splitting and breaking up some vanilla beans, and steeping them for a -week or two in a bottle of _absolute_ alcohol; then straining the -liquid, transferring it to a clean bottle, and keeping it closely -corked. Very little of what is called "Extract of Vanilla" is good, and -it is more expensive than to make it yourself. Also, what is generally -sold for essence of lemon is very inferior to real lemon juice. - - -JELLY OR MARMALADE PUDDING.--Divide the paste equally and line two -puff-paste shells. Bake them empty; and while baking, beat till very -light and thick, the yolks of six eggs. Mix the beaten egg with a -liberal portion of any nice kind of fruit, jelly or marmalade, and boil -it ten minutes in a sauce-pan, stirring it well. Take it up and set it -away to cool. When cold, fill with it the baked shells. Fill them up to -the top with the mixture, and before they go to table sift powdered -white sugar over the surface of the puddings. - - -CHEESE PUDDING.--Take a quarter of a pound of excellent cheese; rich, -but not strong or old. Cut it in small bits, and then beat it (a little -at a time) in a marble mortar. Add a quarter of a pound of the best -fresh butter. Cut it up, and pound it in the mortar with the cheese, -till perfectly smooth and well mixed. Beat five eggs till very thick and -smooth. Mix them, gradually, with the cheese and butter. Put the mixture -into a deep dish with a rim. Have ready some puff-paste, and lay a broad -border of it all round the edge, ornamenting it handsomely. Set it -immediately into a moderate oven, and bake it till the paste is browned, -and has risen very high all round the edge of the dish. Sift white sugar -over it before it goes to table. - -It is intended that the cheese taste shall predominate. But, if -preferred, you may make the mixture very sweet by adding powdered sugar; -it may be seasoned with nutmeg and mace. Either way is good. - -It may be baked in small patty-pans, lined at the bottom and sides with -puff-paste. Remove them from the tins as soon as they come out of the -oven, and place them on a large dish. - -This pudding is very nice made of rich fresh cream cheese; the rind, of -course, being pared off. Cream cheese pudding will require sugar and -spice--that is, a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg, mace, and -cinnamon, all mixed; two ounces of fresh butter, and six eggs. - - -FLORENDINES.--These are made of any sort of fruit, stewed in its own -juice or in sweetmeat syrup, but when practicable, without any water. A -pint of this fruit is mixed with half a pint of fresh butter, and half a -pint of powdered sugar stirred together to a light cream, and then mixed -with three well-beaten eggs, and the fruit stirred in alternately with -the beaten butter and sugar. Have ready baked shells of puff-paste, -ready to be filled with the mixture. The fruit may be apples, quinces, -peaches, gooseberries, currants, raspberries. Cranberries, gooseberries, -and currants, require additional sugar, as they are naturally very sour. -If you use plums or cherries for any sort of cooking, stone them first. - - -PEACH PIES.--Take a sufficient number of fine juicy freestone peaches. -Clingstones are very hard and insipid when raw, and still more tasteless -when cooked. Peel the peaches and quarter them, having removed the -stones. Stew them in their own juice, and while hot make them very sweet -with white sugar. When you put them to stew, place among them a bunch of -fresh green peach leaves, to be removed when the peaches are done. Or, -cook with them some peach kernels, blanched in hot water, to be picked -out when the stewing is finished. Peach leaves or kernels communicate a -flavor which to most persons is pleasant. Have ready some puff-paste -shells; baked, and beginning to cool. Fill them to the top with the -stewed peaches, and pile on them some whipped cream sweetened, and -flavored with noyau or rose-water. - - -A FRUIT CHARLOTTE.--Have ready a large fresh almond sponge cake, or lady -cake. Cut a round or circular piece to fit the bottom of a great glass -bowl. Also, about twelve or fourteen oblong slices, to stand up all -round to line the sides. Have ready two quarts or more of ripe -strawberries or raspberries. Mash the fruit to a jam, and having made it -very sweet with white sugar, spread it thickly over the pieces of cake. -Lay the circular piece of cake in the bottom of the bowl and stand up -the others all round the sides, all close to each other or wrapping over -a little. Proceed to fill the bowl with the fruit; and when half way up, -put on another layer of sliced cake spread with fruit. Then fill up with -fruit to the top. Have ready a quart of whipped cream flavored with -vanilla or bitter almonds. Heap it high on the bowl, and set it in a -cool place till it goes to table. This is a very fine article for a nice -dessert, and can be prepared at a short notice, and without going down -stairs, as it requires no cooking. - -For the whipped cream, you may pile the bowl with any sort of white -ice-cream ready made, and if there is no fresh fruit in season, -substitute marmalade or fruit jelly. - -If you have no large bowl you may serve up this charlotte in glass or -china saucers, laying in the bottom of each a circular slice of cake -spread over with ripe fruit or marmalade. Fill up with the same, and -finish with whipped cream, or ice-cream heaped on the top. - - -VANILLA CUSTARDS.--Split a vanilla bean, break it into small bits, and -boil it in a half pint of milk, till all the flavor of the vanilla is -extracted. Strain it through a very fine strainer, cover it, and set it -aside. Boil a quart of rich milk, and when it comes to a boil set it -away to cool. Beat eight eggs till very thick and smooth, (and when the -milk is cold) add that which is flavored with vanilla, and stir it in -gradually with a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. Divide the -mixture in custard cups, (filling them to the top) and set them into an -iron bake-pan filled with boiling water, reaching nearly to the the rim -of the cups. Put them into a moderate oven, and bake them a pale brown. -When cool, grate nutmeg, or lay a maccaroon on the top over each. Never -send custards warm to table. If well made, and baked not too much, there -will be no whey at the bottom of the cups, and the custards will be -smooth and firm all through, and have no spongy holes in them. - -To make soft custards, omit the whites of all the eggs, and have a -double quantity of yolks. The whites may be used for almond or cocoa-nut -pudding, for lady cake, for meringue or icing, and for kisses or -maccaroons. - -_Orange Custards._--Prepare four large ripe oranges, by rolling them -under your hand on a table to increase the juice. Use none of the peel -for these custards, but reserve it for something else. Beat in a shallow -pan twelve eggs till thick and smooth. Mix the orange juice with a -wineglass of cold water, and stir it gradually into the beaten egg, with -a small tumblerful of powdered sugar. There is no milk in these -custards. Divide them into custard cups, and beat them ten minutes. When -cold, grate nutmeg over them. - -_Lemon Custard_--Is made in the above manner, with the juice of four -large lemons, (omitting the rind) a small wineglass of cold water, -twelve beaten eggs, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. Any of -these fine custards may be boiled in a _bain-marie_, with water in the -outside kettle, and there is no way better. When boiled and cool, grate -in some nutmeg, and serve up the custard in a glass or china pitcher, -with saucers of the same to eat it from, or divide it in small glass -cups with handles to them. - -Lemon or orange custards are very fine. They are made without milk. - -_Chocolate Custard._--Make some strong chocolate, allowing a quarter of -a pound of the best, (which is Baker's prepared cocoa) to a quart of -rich milk; first mixing the milk and scraped chocolate to a smooth -paste. Boil them together a quarter of an hour. While warm, stir in two -or three table-spoonfuls of loaf sugar. Then set it away to cool. Have -ready eight well-beaten eggs, and stir them gradually into the -chocolate. Bake the mixture in cups, and serve them up with a chocolate -maccaroon laid on the top of each. - -_Almond and Maccaroon Custard._--Boil in half a pint of rich milk a -handful of _bitter_ almonds, blanched and broken up. When highly -flavored, strain that milk and set it aside. Boil a quart of milk by -itself, and when cold stir in, gradually, eight well beaten eggs, adding -the flavored milk, and half a pint of powdered sugar. Stir the whole -very hard at the last. Bake it in cups, and when done and cold, lay on -the top of each a maccaroon with four others placed around it; five -maccaroons to each custard. Or, if the maccaroons are made in the house, -let every one be large enough to cover the top of the custard like a -lid. - - -FINE PLUM PUDDING.--This pudding is best when prepared, (all but the -milk and eggs,) the day before it is wanted. Seed and cut in half one -pound of the best bloom raisins; and pick, wash, and dry before the -fire, a pound of Zante currants, (commonly called plums.) Dredge the -fruit well with flour, to prevent its sinking or clogging. Take one -pound of fresh beef suet, freed from the skin and strings, and chopped -_very fine_; a pint of grated bread-crumbs, and half a pint of sifted -flour; a large quarter of a pound of the best sugar, a large -table-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon mixed, and two powdered -nutmegs--all the spice steeped in a half pint of mixed wine and brandy. -Put away these ingredients separately, closely covered, and let them -stand undisturbed all night. Next morning proceed to finish the pudding, -which requires at least six hours boiling. Beat nine eggs till very -thick and smooth, then add gradually a pint of rich milk, in turn with -the bread-crumbs and flour. Mix with the sugar the grated yellow rind -and juice of two large lemons or two oranges, and add gradually to the -mixture all the ingredients, stirring very hard. If you find it too -thick, add by degrees some more milk; if too thin, some more -bread-crumbs. But take care not to have too much bread or flour, or the -pudding will be solid and heavy. Dip a large strong cloth in boiling -water; shake it out, and spread it in a large pan. Dredge it lightly -with flour, and pour in the mixture. Tie it tightly, but leave -sufficient space for the pudding to swell in boiling. Put it into a pot -of fast-boiling water, and boil it steadily six hours or more, not -taking it up till wanted for table. Before turning it, dip the cloth for -a moment in cold water to make the pudding come out easily. Have ready -some slips of citron or of blanched sweet almonds, or both, and stick -them, liberally, all over the surface of the pudding after you have -dished it. Serve it up with wine sauce highly flavored, or with butter -and sugar beaten to a cream, and seasoned with nutmeg and rose. Do not -set the pudding on fire to burn out the liquor; that practice has had -its day, and is over. It was always foolish. - -If you wish to send it to a distant place, (for instance, to some part -of the world where plum puddings are not known or not made) you may -preserve it, (after boiling it well,) by leaving it tied up in the cloth -it was cooked in; hanging it up in a cool dry place, and then packing it -well in a tin vessel having a close fitting cover. Paste a band of thick -white paper all around the place where the lid shuts down, and put into -a tight box the vessel that contains the pudding. When it arrives at its -destination, the friend who receives it will pare off thinly the -outside, and tying up the pudding in a fresh clean cloth, will boil it -over again for an hour or more; and when done the surface may be then -decorated with slips of citron or almond. It has been said that in this -way a plum pudding can be kept for _six_ months, as good as ever. It -cannot. But it may keep six _weeks_. Do not _fry_ or _broil_ plum -pudding that is left at dinner. The slices will be greasy and heavy. But -tie the piece that remains in a small cloth, and _boil_ it over again -for an hour. It will then be nearly as good as on the first day. Believe -in no wonders that you hear, of the long keeping of either plum pudding, -plum cake, or mince meat, which are all of the same family. However long -they may be preserved from absolute decomposition, these things are -always best when fresh. - - -MINCE PIES.--The best mince meat is made of fresh beef's tongue boiled, -peeled, and when quite cold, chopped very fine. The next best is of -beef's heart boiled and chopped. The next of cold roast beef. And the -next, of the lean of cold boiled beef, quite fresh, and cooked -especially for the purpose. All the meat must be fresh, and not minced -till entirely cold. To two large pounds of lean meat allow two small -pounds of nice kidney suet, cleared from skin and strings, and chopped -very small; two pounds of fine juicy apples, pared, cored, and minced; -two pounds of Zante currants, washed, and picked clean; two pounds of -fine bloom raisins, seeded and chopped, or of seedless sultana raisins -cut in half; two pounds of the best sugar; two large nutmegs, powdered; -a table-spoonful of ground cinnamon; the same quantity of ground ginger, -with the juice and grated yellow rind of six large lemons, or the juice -of six oranges, and their grated rind; a pint of Madeira or sherry, and -half a pint of brandy; lastly, half a pound of citron cut into slips, -rather large. If the citron is chopped small it cannot be distinguished -among the other ingredients, and its flavor is lost. When all is -prepared, mix well in a large pan the chopped meat, suet, and fruit. -Then, gradually add the spice, having steeped it in the liquor all the -preceding night, mixing the whole thoroughly, and putting in the citron -at the last. Line with fine puff-paste deep pie-dishes, or patty-pans. -Fill them, quite full of the mince, heaping it higher towards the -centre; and put on a lid, handsomely decorated with puff-paste -ornaments, and having a cross slit in the centre surrounded with paste -leaves or flowers. Set the pies immediately into a moderately brisk -oven, and bake them a light brown. Eat them warm. If baked the preceding -day, heat them again before they go to table. The foolish custom of -setting the pies on fire after they come to table, and causing a blue -blaze to issue from the liquor that is in them, is now obsolete, and -considered ungenteel and tavern-like. If this practice originated in a -polite desire to _frighten the ladies_, its purpose is already a -failure, for the ladies are not frightened; that is, not really. - -Mincemeat will taste more fresh and pleasant if the apples are not added -till the day the pies are made. It should be kept well-secured from air -and damp, in stone jars closely covered. Whenever a jar is opened to -take out some for immediate use, pour in a large glass or two of brandy, -and stir it about. It is not true that mincemeat will keep all winter, -even by this preservative. It is sure to become musty (or worse,) before -two months. It is best to make fresh mincemeat at least three times -during the season. When the cold weather is over, do not attempt it, -unless a little for immediate use. - -Mincemeat, with a double portion of excellent raisins, (cut in half,) -will do very well without currants, which are very troublesome to -prepare; and those imported of late years are rarely of good quality. - -We have heard of West India mincemeat made with cold roast turkey; -chopped pine-apple; grated cocoa-nut; preserved ginger chopped, and -moistened with its own syrup; and seasoned with nutmeg and noyau. - -The above mince pies are for company. - - -CALF'S FEET JELLY.--Select the largest and best calf's feet. Four is -called a set. Choose those that, after the hair has been well scalded -and scraped off, are prepared with the skins left on. There is much -glutinous substance in the skin itself, therefore it adds to the -strength and firmness of the jelly. The feet being made perfectly clean, -split them upwards as far as you can, and put them to boil in a gallon -of _very clear_ soft water. Boil them till they have all gone to pieces, -and the flesh is reduced to rags, and the liquid to one half. Strain the -liquid through a fine sieve into a white-ware pan, and set it away to -cool. When quite cold, it should be a cake of firm jelly. Take it out, -and scrape from it all the fat at the top and sediment at the bottom. -Press on the surface, some clean blotting paper, to remove any grease -that may yet remain about it. Cut the cake of jelly into pieces, and put -it into a _very clean_ porcelain kettle, with a large pint of sherry, -(inferior wine will spoil it,) a pound of the best loaf sugar, broken -small; the yellow rind of six lemons, pared so thin as to be -transparent, and their juice squeezed over the sugar through a strainer; -the _whites_ of six or seven eggs, with their shells mashed small. If -the jelly is to be moulded, add a quarter ounce of the best Russia -isinglass. Boil together all these ingredients for near twenty minutes. -Then take it off the fire, and let it stand undisturbed for about five -minutes, to settle. Next, have ready a pointed jelly bag, made of clean -white flannel. Spread it open, suspended by strings to a table edge. Set -a large tureen or white-ware pan beneath it, and let the jelly drip as -long as it will; but on no account squeeze or press the bag, as that -will spoil all, rendering the whole jelly cloudy or streaked. If it is -not quite clear at the first straining, empty the contents of the bag -into a basin, wash the bag clean, hang it up again, pour the jelly back, -wash the tureen or pan, and let the jelly pass into it again. Repeat -this straining if necessary. When quite clear, shape the jelly in -white-ware moulds, which have been setting two hours in cold water. When -the jelly is wanted, wrap round the moulds for a moment, a cloth dipped -in warm water, and turn it out on glass dishes. The ingredients that are -left in the bag may be boiled and strained over again for children. If -the jelly is _not_ to be moulded, you may omit the isinglass. In that -case break it up, and serve it in a glass bowl. It is now the general -opinion that jellies have a more lively taste when broken up, from the -numerous acute angles they present to the tongue and palate. We think -this opinion correct; and also they look brighter and more glittering, -and _go farther_. - -_Apple Jelly_--Is far less expensive than that of calf's feet, and if -well made looks beautifully. It requires the very best and most juicy -apples, (for instance, two dozen large pippins or bell-flowers.) Wash -and wipe them well, (removing all blemishes,) pare, core, and slice or -quarter them. Put them into a _bain-marie_ or double kettle, with the -water outside, and let them boil till broken and dissolved, putting in -with them the grated yellow rind of four large lemons. Press and mash -the stewed apples through a very clean sieve, till you have extracted -all the juice. Measure it while warm, and allow to each quart a pound of -the finest powdered and sifted loaf sugar well mixed in, and the juice -of the lemons. Transfer it to a clean white flannel jelly bag, and let -it drip into a large white-ware pan. When quite clear, put it into -moulds, and set it on ice to congeal. When wanted, turn it out of the -moulds, (loosened by wrapping round their outsides cloths dipped a -minute in warm water) and serve it up in glass dishes. - -_Siberian Jelly._--A fine pink-colored jelly may be made in the above -manner, of the red Siberian crab-apple, but it requires an _additional_ -quarter of a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Instead of lemon you may -flavor it, (after all the juice has done dripping) by mixing with -extract of rose, or strong rose-water, allowing a wine-glassful to each -quart of jelly. Rose-water, or extract of rose, evaporates so speedily -when over the fire, that it should never be added till the very last. - -_Orange Jelly_--Is made in the proportion of a pint of strained orange -juice to a pound of loaf sugar, boiled with an ounce of isinglass, that -has first been melted over the fire by itself in a very little water. -Add the _yellow_ rind of the oranges pared from the white as thin as -possible. Give it one boil up, and strain it into the jelly-bag. When -clear, transfer it to moulds. Twelve large oranges will generally yield -a pint of juice. Lemon jelly is made in the same manner, but with more -sugar. - - -CURRANT JELLY.--The currants should be large, fine, and fully ripe. The -best and sweetest currants grow in the shade; and the largest, also. If -exposed to the full heat of our American sun, it turns them sour, dries -up the juice, and withers their growth. Gather them when fully ripe, -strip them from the stems into a cullender, and wash and drain them. -Transfer them to a large pan, and mash them well with a wooden beetle. -Then put the currants, with their juice, into a _bain-marie_ or double -kettle, and cook them with the water outside, stirring them hard to -bring out the juice. Simmer them for a quarter of an hour, and then -transfer them to a very clean sieve, and press them over a pan till no -more juice appears. Measure the juice, and to each pint allow a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar. Mix the sugar with the juice, put all into a -porcelain kettle, and boil it till the scum ceases to rise. If the sugar -is of excellent quality, (the best double-refined should be used for all -nice sweetmeats) it will need but little skimming, and leave no sediment -when poured off. Boil it twenty minutes with the sugar. To try if it is -done, take up a spoonful and hold it out in the open air. If it congeals -very soon, it is cooked enough. Put it warm into glass tumblers. Cut out -some white tissue paper into double rounds, exactly fitting the glasses. -Press these papers lightly on the surface of the jelly; and, next day, -tie over the top thick papers dipped in brandy, and set them in the sun -all that day if the weather is bright and warm. - -All jellies of small fruit may be made in a similar manner; first -boiling the fruit by itself, and mashing it to get out all the juice. -Then boiling the berries again, _with the sugar_, for about twenty -minutes. The above receipt is equally good for grapes, blackberries, and -gooseberries. Black currant jelly (excellent for sore throats,) requires -but three quarters of a pound of sugar, the juice being very thick of -itself. Peaches, plums, damsons, and green gages, must be scalded, -peeled, and stoned, before boiling for jelly, and they require, at -least, a pound and a half of sugar to a pint of juice. It is better to -preserve them as marmalade than as jelly. Strawberries and raspberries -require no previous cooking; mash out the juice, strain it, allow a -pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and then boil them together -(skimming carefully) for about a quarter of an hour, or till they -congeal on being tried in the air. - - -WINE JELLY.--Wine jellies are seldom made except for company. The wine -must be of excellent quality; either port, madeira, or champagne. To a -quart of wine allow a pound of the best double-refined loaf sugar, and -an ounce of the best Russian isinglass. Melt the sugar (broken small) in -the wine. Melt the isinglass by itself in as much warm water as will -just cover it, and when quite dissolved, stir it into the mixed wine and -sugar. Boil all together, till on trial it becomes a firm jelly, which -will be very soon. If it does not congeal well, add some more dissolved -isinglass, and more sugar. Serve in moulds, and eat it on saucers. Jelly -is made in this manner of any nice sort of _liqueur_ or cordial. Also of -strong green tea, or very strong coffee; first made as usual, and then -boiled with loaf sugar and isinglass till they congeal. We do not -recommend them, except as some exhilaration to the fatigue of a party. - - -TRIFLE.--This is a very nice and very elegant party dish, and is served -in a large glass bowl. Put into the bottom of the bowl a pound of bitter -almond maccaroons. Pour on sufficient madeira or sherry to dissolve -them. Let them soak in it till soft and broken. Have ready a very rich -custard, flavored with vanilla bean (broken up and boiled by itself in a -little milk), and then strained into the quart of milk prepared for the -custard, which should be of ten eggs, (_using only the yolks_) and -sweetened with a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar. It is best -and easiest to _bake_ the custard. It will be very rich and soft with -yolk of egg only. When the custard is cold lay it on the dissolved -maccaroons. Then add a thick layer of very nice marmalade. Rub off the -yellow rind of a large lemon or two on some pieces of loaf sugar, and -add to it some powdered sugar mixed with the lemon juice. Whip to a -strong froth a large quart (or more) of rich cream, gradually mixing -with it the lemon and sugar. Lastly, pile up the frothed cream high on -the glass bowl, and keep it on ice till it is sent to table. Instead of -lemon you may flavor the whipt cream with rose-water; it will require, -if not very strong, a wine-glassful. To give the cream a fine pink -color, tie up some alkanet chips in a thin muslin bag; lay the bag to -infuse in a tea-cup of plain cream, and then add the pink infusion to -the quart of cream as you froth it. - - -BLANCMANGE.--The best and finest blancmange is made with a set of -calves' feet, (singed but not skinned) boiled slowly in a gallon of -water till the meat drops from the bone; then strain it, and set it away -till next day, in a broad white-ware pan. Skim it well while boiling. -Next day it should be a solid cake of clear jelly. Scrape off all the -fat and sediment from the outside, cut the jelly into small bits, and -melt it over again. Boil in a porcelain kettle a pint of cream, and -when it has come to a boil, stir in six ounces of loaf sugar, and -whatever you intend for flavoring; either the milk, in which a handful -of bitter almonds has been boiled, (first being blanched and broken up) -or a vanilla bean split and cut to pieces, and boiled in a little milk -and strained. Or, it may be mixed with three ounces of chocolate, -(Baker's prepared cocoa is the best) scraped fine. When the flavoring -has had a boil with the sugar, stir into it, gradually, the melted -jelly, and transfer it to white-ware moulds that have set in cold water, -and are still damp. Stir it well, and when the blancmange is thickening, -and becoming hard to stir, set the moulds on ice, or in pans of cold -water in the cellar, and cease stirring. When quite congealed, dip the -moulds in lukewarm water, and turn out the blancmange on glass dishes. -You may color almond or vanilla blancmange a fine pink, by putting into -the cream chips of alkanet root tied in a small thin muslin bag, to be -removed as soon as the cream is highly colored. Or, it may be made green -by the infusion of spinach juice, obtained by pounding in a marble -mortar, and then boiling and straining. - -Gelatine is now frequently used for blancmange and jelly, instead of -calves' feet or isinglass. It has no advantage but that of being more -speedily prepared than calves' feet, which must be boiled the day -before. Four cakes of gelatine are equal to four calves' feet. Before -using, they must be soaked for an hour or more in a pan of cold water, -then boiled with the other ingredients. Some persons think they -perceive an unpleasant taste in gelatine; perhaps they have heard of -what it is made. - -When calves' feet cannot be obtained, pigs' feet will do very well, if -nobody knows it. Four feet of calves are equal to eight of pigs. They -are very glutinous, and have no perceptible taste. - - -FINEST BLANCMANGE.--Break up a half pound of the best double-refined -loaf sugar. On some of the pieces rub off the yellow rind of two large -lemons, having rolled them under your hand to increase the juice. Then -powder all the sugar, and mix with it, gradually, the juice of the -lemons, a pint of rich cream, and a large half pint (not less) of sherry -or madeira. Stir the mixture very hard till all the articles are -thoroughly amalgamated. Then stir in, gradually, a _second_ pint of -cream. Put into a small sauce-pan an ounce of the best Russia isinglass, -with one jill (or two common-sized wineglasses) of cold water. Boil it -till the isinglass is completely dissolved, stirring it several times -down to the bottom. When the melted isinglass has become lukewarm, stir -it gradually into the mixture, and then give the whole a hard stirring. -Have ready some white-ware moulds that have just been dipped and rinsed -in cold water. Fill them with the mixture, set them on ice, and in two -or three hours the blancmange will be congealed. When it is perfectly -firm, dip the moulds for a minute in lukewarm water, and turn out the -blancmange on glass dishes. This, if accurately made, is the finest of -blancmange. For company, you must have double, or treble, or four times -the quantity of ingredients; each article in due proportion. - - -FARINA.--Farina is a very fine and delicate preparation, made from the -inner part of the grain of new wheat. It is exceedingly nutritious, and -excellent either for invalids or for persons in health. It is now much -in use, and is to be had, in packages of a pound or half a pound, of the -best grocers and druggists, and is highly recommended by physicians for -gruel and panade. It also makes an excellent pudding, either boiled or -baked, prepared in the same manner as any flour pudding. For boiling -farina, nothing is so good as a _bain-marie_ or double kettle. - -_For Farina Blancmange._--From a quart of rich milk take out a half -pint. Put the half pint into a small sauce-pan, and add to it a handful -of bitter almonds broken up; or a bunch of fresh peach leaves, or a -vanilla bean split, cut up, and tied in a thin muslin bag. When this -milk has boiled till very highly flavored, strain it into the pint and a -half, and set it over the fire in a porcelain kettle or a _bain-marie_. -When the milk has come to a boil, sprinkle in, gradually, a large half -pint or more (or four large heaping table-spoonfuls) of farina, stirring -it well--also sprinkling in and stirring, as if making thick mush. Let -it boil slowly a quarter of an hour after the farina is all in. When -done, remove it from the fire, and stir in two large table-spoonfuls of -sugar, and a wineglass of rose-water, or one of white wine. Transfer it -to a blancmange mould, (previously wet with cold water,) set it on ice, -and turn it out when ready for dinner. Eat it with sauce of wine, sugar, -and nutmeg. - - -FINE MARROW PUDDING.--Mince very small a quarter of a pound of nice beef -marrow, and grate or crumble half a pound of almond sponge cake. Cut in -half, a quarter of a pound of sultana or seedless raisins, chop two -peels of candied citron, mix them with the raisins, and dredge both -thickly with flour. Add a large heaped table-spoonful of loaf sugar, a -small nutmeg grated, and a wineglass of mixed wine and brandy. Mix all -these ingredients well, put them into a deep dish, lay a border of -puff-paste all round the rim, and fill the dish up to the top with a -nice custard made in the proportion of four eggs to a pint of -well-sweetened milk, flavored with either bitter almonds, rose-water, -peach-water, or vanilla. Bake this pudding half an hour. When cool, sift -sugar over it. - - -OMELETTE SOUFFLE.--Break six eggs, separating the yolks and whites. Give -them a slight stir, and strain the whites into one pan and the yolks -into another. Add to the yolks three large table-spoonfuls of powdered -loaf sugar, a heaped tea-spoonful of arrow-root flour, and twelve drops -of strong orange-flower water, and beat it till very thick and smooth. -Then beat the whites to a stiff froth, beginning slowly at first, but -gradually beating faster. Then add the beaten yolk very gently to the -whites. Have ready a silver or plated dish well-buttered. Use tin for -want of better, but it will not look well, as the omelette has to be -served up in the dish it was baked in. Place the dish with the mixture -in a hot oven, and watch it while baking. When it has well risen, and -seems very light, take it out of the oven for a moment; run a knife -round it, sift some sugar over it, set it again in the oven, and when -raised to its utmost take it out again, and serve it up as hot as -possible, with a spoon on the plate beside it. When once broken, it will -sink immediately. It is usual to send round the omelette souffle at the -very last of the pastry course; the cook not beginning to make it till -the dinner has commenced. If not light when baked, give it up, and do -not send it to table at all. It is safest for an inexperienced housewife -to engage a French cook to come to the house with his own ingredients -and utensils, and make and bake the omelette souffle while there. Still -though very fashionable, it is less delicious than many other desserts. - - -SUNDERLANDS.--Warm a quart of rich milk, and cut up in it half a pound -of the best fresh butter to soften in the milk, but not to oil. Beat -eight eggs till very light and thick, and then stir them gradually into -the pan of milk and butter, in turn with eight large table-spoonfuls of -sifted flour. Beat all very hard together, and then transfer the batter -to white tea-cups, slightly buttered, not filling them quite full. Set -them immediately into a brisk oven, and bake them about twenty minutes, -or till they are slightly browned, and have puffed up very light. As -soon as they are cool enough to handle without burning your fingers, -turn them out of the cups on a dish, cut a slit in the top of each, and, -taking a tea-spoon, fill them quite full of any sort of jelly or -marmalade; or if more convenient, with ripe strawberries or raspberries, -sweetened with powdered sugar, and mashed smoothly. When filled with -fruit, close the slit neatly with your fingers; and on the top of each -lay a large strawberry or raspberry, having first dredged the sunderland -with sugar. - -_Cream Cakes_--Are made in the above manner, but baked in patty-pans. -When baked take them out, cut a slit in the _side_ of each; and having -prepared an ample quantity of rich boiled custard, made with yolk of -egg, and highly flavored (_after it has boiled_,) with lemon, orange, -vanilla, rose-water or peach-water, fill the cakes full of the custard, -closing the opening well by pinching it together. Sift powdered sugar -over them, and send them to table on a large china dish. - - -CREAM TART.--Make a fine puff-paste of equal quantities of fresh butter -and sifted flour; mixing into the pan of flour a heaped table-spoonful -of powdered sugar, and wetting it with a beaten egg. Rub one quarter of -the butter into the pan of flour. Divide the remainder of butter into -six, and roll it into the flour at six turns till it is all in. Have, -ready grated, the yellow rind and the juice of a large lemon or orange -mixed with a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar; or a flavoring -of a split-up vanilla bean; or a dozen bitter almonds broken up, and -boiled in a very little milk. Mix the flavoring with a pint of rich -cream, and the well-beaten whites of three eggs. Take small deep pans, -line them all through with the paste rolled out very thin, and cut -square. Fill them with the cream, and turn the square pieces of paste a -little over it at the top, so as to form corners. Bake the tarts in a -brisk oven, and when cold, grate nutmeg over the surface. - -Are these the cream tarts of the Arabian Nights? - - -ORANGE COCOA-NUT.--Break up a fine ripe cocoa-nut, and after peeling off -the brown skin, lay the pieces in cold water for a while. Then wipe them -dry with a clean towel, and grate them into a deep dish. Mix in, plenty -of powdered white sugar. Take some fine large oranges, very ripe and -juicy. Peel off all the rind, and slice the oranges rather thick. Cover -the bottom of a large glass bowl with sliced orange, (the first layer -being double, where the bowl is small) and strew among the slices -sufficient sugar. Then put in a thick layer of the grated cocoa-nut, -next another layer of orange--again a layer of cocoa-nut, and so on, -alternately, till the bowl is filled, finishing with cocoa-nut heaped -high. This is a handsome and delicious article for a supper-table, and a -nice _impromptu_ addition to the dessert at a dinner; and soon prepared, -as it requires no cooking. When the fruit is in season, a dessert for a -small company may consist entirely of orange cocoa-nut, raspberry -charlotte, and cream strawberries. - -Never send oranges whole to table. To ladies they are unmanageable in -company. - -_Creamed Strawberries._--Take fine large ripe strawberries. Hull or stem -them, and set them on ice till just before they are wanted. Divide them -into saucerfulls. If you have glass saucers, they will make a better -show than china. Put some powdered white sugar in the bottom of each -saucer. Fill them with strawberries, and then strew on a liberal -allowance of sugar, for American strawberries (however fine in -appearance) are seldom sweet. Have ready sufficient whipped cream, that -has been frothed with rods or with a tin cream-churn. Pile high a -portion of the whipt cream on each saucer of strawberries. - -Strawberries are sometimes eaten with wine and sugar, when cream is not -convenient. With _milk_ they curdle, and are unwholesome--besides -tasting poorly. - -_Creamed Pine-apple._--Cut into four pieces two large ripe pine-apples. -Stand them up successively in a deep dish, and grate them from the rind. -When all is grated, transfer it to a large glass bowl, and make it very -sweet by mixing in powdered white loaf sugar. Whip to a stiff froth a -sufficiency of rich cream, adding to it some sugar, and heap it high -upon the grated pine-apple. - -_Peaches and Cream._--Take fine juicy freestone peaches. Pare them, and -cut them in slices. Put them, with their juice, into a large bowl, and -make them very sweet with powdered loaf sugar. Set them on ice, and let -them remain in the juice till wanted. Then send them to table with fresh -sugar sifted over the top. Set near them pitchers of plain cream, not -frothed. - -If you cannot obtain cream, it is better to be satisfied with sugar -alone, than to substitute milk, with peaches, or any other fruit. - - -LEMON TAFFY.--Put into a porcelain-lined preserving kettle three pounds -of the best loaf sugar, and pour on it a pint and a half of very clear -water. When it has entirely dissolved, set it over the fire, and add a -table spoonful of fine cider vinegar to assist in clearing it as it -boils. Boil and skim it well, and when no more scum rises add the juice -of four large lemons or oranges. Let it boil till it will boil no -longer, stirring it well. When done transfer it to square tin pans, that -have been made very clean and bright, and that are slightly greased with -sweet oil. Set the taffy away to cool, first marking it with a knife, -while soft. Mark it in straight lines the broad or crossway of the pans. -If marked lengthways, the pieces will be too long. When the taffy is -cold, cut it according to the lines, in regular slips, like cocoa-nut -candy. It is for a handsome supper party. Serve it up in glass dishes. - -Orange taffy is made in the same manner. These candies should be kept in -tin boxes. - -_Cocoa-nut Candy_--Is made in the manner of taffy, using finely grated -cocoa-nut, instead of lemon or orange. - - -CHARLOTTE RUSSE.--Split, cut up, and boil a large vanilla bean in half a -pint of rich milk, till it is highly flavored, and reduced to one-half. -Then strain out the vanilla through a strainer so fine as to avoid all -the seeds. Mix the strained milk with half a pint of rich cream. Beat -five eggs till very smooth and thick. Strain them, and add them -gradually to the cream when it is entirely cold, to make a rich custard. -Set this custard over the fire (stirring it all the time) till it -simmers; but take it off before it comes to a boil, or it will curdle. -Set it on ice. Have ready in another sauce-pan an ounce of the best -Russia isinglass, boiled in half a pint of water, till it is all -dissolved into a thick jelly. When both are cold, (but not hard) mix the -custard and the isinglass together, and add four table-spoonfuls of -powdered loaf sugar. Then take a large lump of loaf sugar, and rub off -on it the yellow rind of two large lemons. Scrape off the lemon-grate -with a tea-spoon, and add it to the mixture, with the lump of sugar -powdered and crushed fine. Mix together the strained juice of the -lemons, and two glasses of madeira; dissolve in them the lemon-flavored -sugar, and mix it with a pint of rich cream that has been whipped with a -whisk to a strong froth. Add the whipped cream gradually to the custard, -starring very hard at the time, and also after the whole is mixed. Then -set it on ice. - -Cover the bottom of a flat oval dish with a slice of almond sponge cake, -cut to fit. Prepare a sufficient number of oblong slices of the cake, -(all of the same size and shape) to go all round; with one extra slice, -in case they should not quite hold out. Dip every one in a plate of -beaten white of egg to make them adhere. Stand each of them up on one -end, round the large oval slice that lies at the bottom. Make them -follow each other evenly and neatly, (every one lapping a little way -over its predecessor) till you have a handsome wall of slices, cemented -all round by the white of egg. Fill it quite full with the custard -mixture. Cover the top with another oval slice of cake, cemented with a -little white of egg to the upper edge of the wall. Make a nice icing in -the usual way, of powdered sugar beaten into frothed white of egg, and -flavored with lemon, orange, or rose. Spread this icing thickly and -smoothly over the cake that covers the top of the charlotte, and -ornament it with a handsome pattern of sugar flowers. There is no -charlotte russe superior to this. - -_Another Charlotte Russe._--Have a very nice circular lady cake. It -should be iced all over, and ornamented with sugar flowers. Take off the -top nicely, and without breaking or defacing, and hollow out the inside, -leaving the sides and bottom standing. The cake taken from the inside -may be cut in regular pieces and used at tea, or for other purposes. -Make a very fine boiled custard, according to the preceding receipt. -Fill with it the empty cake, as if filling a mould. Then put on the lid, -set the whole on ice, and when wanted serve it up on a glass or china -dish. - -A charlotte that requires no cooking may be very easily made by -hollowing a nice circular almond sponge cake, and filling it with layers -of small preserves, and piling on the top whipped cream finely flavored. - -For the walls of a charlotte russe you may use the oblong sponge cakes, -called Naples biscuits, or those denominated lady fingers, dipping them -first in beaten white of egg, standing them on end, and arranging them -so as to lap over each other in forming the wall. Arrange some of them -handsomely to cover the top of the custard. - - -ICE CREAM.--Pewter freezers for ice cream are better than those of block -tin; as in them the freezing goes on more gradually and thoroughly, and -it does not melt so soon, besides being smoother when done. The ice tub -should be large enough to allow ample space all round (six inches, at -least,) the freezer as it stands in the centre, and should have a plug -at the bottom (beneath the freezer) for letting out the water that drips -from the ice; that a large coarse woolen cloth should be folded, and -laid under it and around it. The ice should be broken up into small -bits, and mixed with coarse salt, in the proportion of a pound of salt -to five pounds of ice. Fill the tub within three inches of the top; -pounding and pressing down hard the mixed ice and salt. Have ready all -the ingredients. To every quart of _real_ rich cream mix in a pint of -milk, (not more) and half a pound of fine loaf sugar. The following are -the most usual flavorings, all the fruit being made very sweet. Ripe -strawberries or raspberries, mashed through a sieve till all the juice -is extracted; ripe juicy freestone peaches, pared, and cut in half, the -kernels being taken from the stones, are pounded, and mashed with the -fruit through a cullender; all the juice that can be mashed out of a -sliced pine-apple, the grated yellow rind and the juice of lemons or -oranges, allowing two to each quart of cream, and mixing the juice with -plenty of sugar before it is put to the cream. A handful of shelled -bitter almonds blanched, broken, and boiled by themselves in half a -pint of milk till all the almond flavor is extracted, and then strain -the bitter almond milk into the cream. For vanilla flavor, split and cut -up a vanilla bean, boil it by itself in a half pint of milk, and when -highly flavored, strain the vanilla milk into the cream. For chocolate -ice cream, scrape down a quarter of a pound of Baker's prepared cocoa, -and melt it in just water enough to cover it; then sweeten and mix it -gradually into a quart of rich milk, (boiling at the time) and then boil -and stir it till strong and smooth. Ice cream is spoiled by the addition -of eggs. Besides giving it a yellowish color, eggs convert it into mere -frozen custard, particularly if instead of using real cream, it is made -of milk thickened with arrow-root or flour. For company at least, ice -cream should be made in the best and most liberal manner, or else do not -attempt it. Mean ice cream is a very mean thing. - -When all the ingredients are prepared and mixed, put the whole into the -freezer, and set it in the ice tub; and having put on the lid tightly, -take the freezer by the handle and turn it about very fast for five or -six minutes. Then remove the lid carefully, and scrape down the cream -from the sides with a spaddle or long-handled spoon. Repeat this -frequently while it is freezing, taking care to keep the sides clear, -stirring it well to the bottom, and keeping the tub well filled with -salt and ice outside the freezer. - -After the cream has been well frozen in the freezer, transfer it to -moulds, pressing it in hard, so as to fill every part of the mould. -Then set the mould in a fresh tub of ice and salt, (using as before the -proportion of a pound of salt to five pounds of ice) and let it remain -undisturbed in the mould for an hour, not turning it out till it is time -to serve it up to the company. Then wrap a cloth, dipped in warm water, -round the outside of the moulds, open them, and turn out the frozen -cream on glass or china dishes, and serve it up immediately. - -Unless ice cream is very highly flavored at the beginning, its taste -will be much weakened in the process of freezing. - -The most usual form of ice cream moulds are pyramids, dolphins, doves, -and baskets of fruit. We have seen ice cream in the shape of a curly -lap-dog, and very well represented. - -If you eat what is called strawberry ice cream looking of an exquisite -rose-pink color, there is no strawberry about it, either in tint or -taste. It is produced by alkanet or cochineal. Real strawberries do not -color so beautifully; neither do raspberries, or any other sort of red -fruit. But genuine fruit syrups may be employed for this purpose, having -at least the true taste. To make strawberry or raspberry syrup, prepare -first what is called simple syrup, by melting a pound of the best -double-refined loaf sugar in half a pint of cold water; and when melted, -boiling them together, and skimming it perfectly clean. Then stir in as -much fruit juice (mashed and strained,) as will give it a fine tinge, -and let it have one more boiling up. - -_Vanilla Syrup._--Take six fine fresh vanilla beans. Split, and cut them -in pieces. Scrape the seeds loose in the pods with your finger nail, and -bruise and mash the shells. All this will increase the vanilla flavor. -Put all you can get of the vanilla into a small quart of what is called -by the druggist "absolute alcohol." Cork the bottle closely, and let the -vanilla infuse in it a week. Then strain it through a very fine strainer -that will not let out a single seed. Have ready half a dozen pint -bottles of simple syrup. Put into every bottle of the simple syrup a -portion of the strained infusion of vanilla. Cork it tightly and use it -for vanilla flavoring in ice creams, custards, blancmange, &c. - -_Orange or Lemon Syrups_--Are made by paring off the yellow rind very -thin (after the fruit has been rolled under your hand on a table to -increase the juice,) then boiling the rind till the water is highly -flavored. Strain this water over the best loaf sugar, allowing two -pounds of sugar to a pint of juice. The sugar being melted, mix it with -the juice. - - -WATER ICES OR SHERBET.--Water ices are made of the juice of fruits, very -well sweetened, mixed with a little water, and frozen in the manner of -ice cream, to which they are by many persons preferred. They are all -prepared nearly in the same manner, allowing a pint of juice to a pint -of water, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Mix it well, and then -freeze it in the manner of ice cream, and serve it up in glass bowls. -For lemon and orange sherbet, first roll the fruit on a table under your -hand; then take off a very thin paring of the yellow rind, and boil it -slowly in a very little water, till all the flavor is extracted. Next, -strain the flavored water into the cold water you intend to mix with the -juice, and make it very sweet with loaf sugar. Squeeze the juice into it -through a tin strainer to avoid the seeds. Stir the whole very hard, and -transfer it to a freezer. Orange water-ice is considered the best, if -well made. For pine-apple water-ice, pare, core, and slice fine _ripe_ -apples very thin. Put them into a dish with thick layers of powdered -loaf sugar; cover the dish, and let them lie several hours in the sugar. -Then press out all the juice you can, from the pine-apple; mix it with a -little water, and freeze it. To two large pine-apples allow a half pound -of sugar, which has been melted in a quart of boiling water. This looks -very well frozen in a mould shaped like a pine-apple. _Orange_ sherbet -may be frozen in a pine-apple mould. It can be made so rich with orange -juice as to perfume the whole table. - -_Roman Punch_--Is made of strong lemonade or orangeade, adding to every -quart a pint of brandy or rum. Then freeze it, and serve in saucers or a -large glass bowl. Put it into a porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it -till the scum ceases to rise. When cold, bottle it, seal the corks and -keep it in a cool place. - -Syrup of strawberries, raspberries, currants and blackberries, is made -in a similar manner. - - -FLOATING ISLAND.--For one common-sized floating island have a round -thick jelly cake, lady cake, or almond sponge cake, that will weigh a -pound and a half, or two pounds. Slice it downwards, almost to the -bottom, but do not take the slices apart. Stand up the cake in the -centre of a glass bowl or a deep dish. Have ready a pint and a half of -rich cream, make it very sweet with sugar, and color it a fine green -with a tea-cupful of the juice of pounded spinach, boiled five minutes -by itself; strained, and made very sweet. Or for coloring pink you may -use currant jelly, or the juice of preserved strawberries. Whip to a -stiff froth another pint and a half of sweetened cream, and flavor it -with a large glass of mixed wine and brandy. Pour round the cake, as it -stands in the dish or bowl, the colored unfrothed cream, and pile the -whipped white cream all over the cake, highest on the top. - - - - -FINE CAKES. - - -PLUM CAKE.--In making very fine plum cake first prepare the fruit and -spice, and sift the flour (which must be the very best superfine,) into -a large flat dish, and dry it before the fire. Use none but the very -best fresh butter; if of inferior quality, the butter will taste through -every thing, and spoil the cake. In fact, all the ingredients should be -excellent, and liberally allowed. Take the best bloom or muscatel -raisins, seeded and cut in half. Pick and wash the currants or plums -through two waters, and dry them well. Powder the spice, and let it -infuse over night in the wine and brandy. Cut the citron into slips, mix -it with the raisins and currants, and dredge all the fruit very thickly, -on both sides, with flour. This will prevent its sinking or clodding in -the cake, while baking. Eggs should always be beaten till the frothing -is over, and till they become thick and smooth, as thick as a good -boiled custard, and quite smooth on the surface. If you can obtain -hickory-rods as egg-beaters, there is nothing so good; but if you cannot -get _them_, use the common egg-beaters, of thin fine wire. For stirring -butter and sugar you should have a spaddle, which resembles a short -mush-stick flattened at one end. Stir the butter and sugar in a deep -earthen pan, and continue till it is light, thick, and creamy. Beat eggs -always in a broad shallow earthen pan, and with a short quick stroke, -keeping your right elbow close to your side, and moving only your wrist. -In this way you may beat for an hour without fatigue. But to stir butter -and sugar is the hardest part of cake making. Have this done by a man -servant. His strength will accomplish it in a short time--also, let him -give the final stirring to the cake. If the ingredients are prepared as -far as practicable on the preceding day, the cake may be in the oven by -ten or eleven o'clock in the forenoon. - -For a large plum cake allow one pound, (or a quart) of sifted flour; one -pound of fresh butter cut up in a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in a -deep pan; twelve eggs; two pounds of bloom raisins; two pounds of Zante -currants; half a pound of citron, either cut into slips or chopped -small; a table-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon, mixed; two grated -nutmegs; a large wine-glass of madeira (or more), a wine-glass of French -brandy, mixed together, and the spice steeped in it. - -First stir the butter and sugar to a light cream, and add to them the -spice and liquor. Then beat the eggs in a shallow pan till very thick -and smooth, breaking them one at a time into a saucer to ascertain if -there is a bad one among them. One stale egg will spoil the whole cake. -When the eggs are very light, stir them gradually into the large pan of -butter and sugar in turn with the flour, that being the mixing pan. -Lastly, add the fruit and citron, a little at a time of each, and give -the whole a hard stirring. If the fruit is well floured it will not -sink, but it will be seen evenly dispersed all over the cake when baked. -Take a large straight-sided block tin pan, grease it inside with the -same butter used for the cake, and put the mixture carefully into it. -Set it immediately into a well-heated oven, and keep up a steady heat -while it is baking. When nearly done, the cake will shrink a little from -the sides of the pan; and on probing it to the bottom with a sprig from -a corn broom, or a splinter-skewer, the probe will come out clean. -Otherwise, keep the cake in the oven a little longer. If it cracks on -the top, it is a proof of its being very light. When quite done, take it -out. It will become hard if left to grow cold with the oven. Set it to -cool on an inverted sieve. - - -ICING.--Allow to the white of each egg a quarter of a pound of the best -loaf sugar, finely powdered; but if you find the mixture too thin, you -must add still more sugar. Put the white of egg into a shallow pan, and -beat it with small rods or a large silver fork, till it becomes a stiff -froth, and stands alone without falling. Then beat in the powdered -sugar, a tea-spoonful at a time. As you proceed, flavor it with lemon -juice. This will render the icing whiter and smoother, also improving -the taste. You may ice the cake as soon as it becomes lukewarm, without -waiting till it is quite cold. Dredge it lightly with flour to absorb -the grease from the outside; then wipe off the flour. With a broad knife -put some icing on the middle of the cake, and then spread it down, -thickly and evenly, all over the top and sides, smoothing it with -another knife dipped in cold water. When this is quite dry, spread on a -second coat of icing rather thinner than the first, and flavored with -rose. Set it a few minutes in the oven to harden the icing, leaving the -oven-door open; or place it beneath the stove. When the icing is quite -dry, you may ornament it with sugar borders and flowers; having ready, -for that purpose, some additional icing. By means of a syringe, (made -for the purpose, and to be obtained at the best furnishing stores) you -can decorate the surface of the cake very handsomely; but it requires -taste, skill, and practice. You may first cover the cake with pink, -brown, green, or other colored icing, and then take white icing to -decorate it, forming the pattern by moving your hand skilfully and -steadily over it, and pressing it out of the syringe as you go. An -easier way is to ornament the cake (when the top-icing is nearly dry, -but not quite,) with large strawberries or raspberries, or purple grapes -placed very near each other, and arranged in circles or patterns. Be -careful not to mash the berries. - -_Warm Icing._--This is made in the usual proportion of the whites of -four eggs, beaten to stiff froth, and a pound of finely powdered loaf -sugar afterwards added to it, gradually. Then boil the egg and sugar in -a porcelain kettle, and skim it till the scum ceases to rise. Take it -off the fire, and stir into it sufficient orange juice, lemon juice, or -rose-water, to flavor it highly. Flour your cake--wipe off the flour, -put on the icing with a broad knife, and then smooth it with another -knife dipped in cold water. For this icing the cake should be warm from -the oven, and dried slowly and gradually afterwards. Warm icing is much -liked. It is very light; rises thick and high in cooling, and has a fine -gloss. Try it. The mixture called by the French a _meringue_, and used -for macaroons, kisses, and other nice articles, is made in the same -manner as icing for cakes, allowing a quarter of a pound of powdered -loaf sugar to every beaten white of egg. - - -POUND CAKE.--One of Mrs. Goodfellow's maxims was, "up-weight of flour, -and down-weight of every thing else"--and she was right, as the -excellence of her cakes sufficiently proved, during the thirty years -that she taught her art in Philadelphia, with unexampled success. -Therefore, allow for a pound cake a rather small pound of sifted flour; -a large pound of the best fresh butter, a large pound of powdered loaf -sugar, ten eggs, or eleven if they are small; a large glass of mixed -wine and brandy; a glass of rose-water; a grated nutmeg, and a heaped -tea-spoonful of mixed spice, powdered mace, and cinnamon. Put the sugar -into a _deep_ earthen pan, and cut up the butter among it. In cold -weather place it near the fire a few minutes, till the butter softens. -Next, stir it very hard with a spaddle till the mixture becomes very -light. Next, stir in, gradually, the spice, liquor, &c. Then beat the -eggs in a shallow pan with rods or a whisk, till light, thick, and -smooth. Add them gradually to the beaten batter and sugar, in turn with -the flour; and give the whole a hard stirring at the last. Have the oven -ready with a moderate heat. Transfer the mixture to a thick -straight-sided tin pan well greased with the best fresh butter, and -smooth the butter on the surface. Set it immediately into the oven, and -bake it with a steady heat two hours and a half, or more. Probe it to -the bottom with a twig from a corn broom. When it shrinks a little from -the pan it is done. When taken out, set it to cool on an inverted sieve. -When you ice it, flavor the icing with lemon or rose. - -It should be eaten fresh, as it soon becomes very dry. - -Pound cake is not so much in use as formerly, particularly for weddings -and large parties; lady cake and plum cake being now substituted. A -pound cake may be much improved by the addition of a pound of citron, -sliced, chopped well, dredged with flour to prevent its sinking, and -stirred gradually into the batter, in turn with the sifted flour and -beaten egg. - - -QUEEN CAKE--Is made in the same manner as pound cake, only with a less -proportion of flour, (fourteen ounces, or two ounces less than a pound) -as it must be baked in little tins; and small cakes require less flour -than large ones. Also, (besides a somewhat larger allowance of spice, -liquor, &c.) add the juice and grated yellow rind of a lemon or two, and -half a pound of sultana or seedless raisins, cut in half and dredged -with flour. Butter your small cake tins, and fill to the edge with the -batter. They will not run over the edge if well made, and baked with a -proper fire, but they will rise high and fine in the centre. Ice them -when beginning to cool, flavoring the icing with lemon or rose. Queen -cakes made _exactly_ as above are superlative. - - -ORANGE CAKES.--Make a mixture precisely as for queen cake, only omit the -wine, brandy, and rose-water, and substitute the grated yellow rind and -the juice of four large ripe oranges, stirred into the batter in turn -with the egg and flour. Flavor the icing with orange juice. - - -LEMON CAKES--Are also made as above, substituting for the oranges the -grated rind and juice of three lemons. To give a full taste, less lemon -is required than orange. - - -SPONGE CAKE.--Many persons suppose that sponge cake must be very easy to -make, because there is no butter in it. On the contrary, the want of -butter renders it difficult to get light. A really good sponge cake is a -very different thing from those numerous tough leathery compositions -that go by that name, and being flavored with nothing, are not worthy of -eating _as cake_, and are neither palatable nor wholesome as diet, -unless too fresh to have grown dry and hard. The best sponge cake we -know of is made as follows, and even that should be eaten the day it is -baked. Sift half a pound of flour, (arrow-root is still better,) in a -shallow pan; beat twelve eggs till very thick, light, and smooth. You -need not separate the yolks and whites, if you know the true way of -adding the flour. Beat a pound of powdered loaf sugar, gradually, (a -little at a time) into the beaten eggs, and add the juice and grated -yellow rinds of two large lemons or oranges. Lastly stir in the flour or -arrow root. It is all important that this should be done slowly and -lightly, and without stirring down to the bottom of the pan. Hold the -egg-beater perpendicularly or quite upright in one hand, and move it -round on the surface of the beaten egg, while with the other hand you -lightly and gradually sprinkle in the flour till all is in. If stirred -in hard and fast it will render the cake porous and tough, and dry and -hard when cold. Have ready either a large turban mould, or some small -oblong or square tins. Butter them nicely, transfer to them the cake -mixture, grate powdered sugar profusely over the surface to give it a -gloss like a very thin crust, and set it immediately into a brisk oven. -The small oblong cakes are called Naples biscuits, and require no icing. -A large turban cake may be iced plain, without ornament. - -A _very light_ sponge cake, when sliced, will cut down rough and coarse -grained, and it is desirable to have it so. - -_Lady Fingers_--Are mixed in the same manner, and of the same -ingredients as the foregoing receipt for the best sponge cake. When the -mixture is finished, form the cakes by shaping the batter with a -tea-spoon, upon sheets of soft white paper slightly damped, forming them -like double ovals joined in the centre. Sift powdered sugar over them, -and bake them in a quick oven till slightly browned. When cool, take -them off the papers. They are sometimes iced. - - -ALMOND SPONGE CAKE.--The addition of almonds makes this cake very -superior to the usual sponge cake. Sift half a pound of fine flour or -arrow root. Blanch in scalding water two ounces of shelled sweet -almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones, renewing the hot water when -expedient. When the skins are all off, wash the almonds in cold water, -(mixing the sweet and bitter) and wipe them dry. Pound them to a fine -smooth paste, (one at a time,) in a very clean marble mortar, adding, as -you proceed, plenty of rose-water to prevent their oiling. Then set them -in a cool place. Beat twelve eggs till very smooth and thick, and then -beat into them, gradually, a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in turn with -the pounded almonds. Lastly, add the flour, stirring it round slowly and -lightly on the surface of the mixture, as in common sponge cake. Have -ready a _deep_ square pan. Butter it nicely. Put the mixture carefully -into it, set it into the oven, and bake it till thoroughly done and -risen very high. When cool, cover it with plain white icing, flavored -with rose-water. With sweet almonds, always use a small portion of -bitter ones. Without them, _sweet_ almonds have little or no taste, -though they add to the richness of the cake. - - -SPANISH BUNS.--In a shallow pan put a half pint of rich unskimmed milk, -and cut up in it a half pound of the best fresh butter. Set it on the -stove, or near the fire, to warm and soften, but do not let it melt or -oil. When soft, stir it all through the milk with a broad knife, and -then set it away to cool. Sift into a broad pan half a pound of the -finest flour, and an additional quarter of a pound put on a plate by -itself. Beat four eggs in a shallow pan till very thick and smooth, and -mix them at once into the butter and sugar, adding the half pound of -flour. Stir in a powdered nutmeg, and two wine-glasses of strong yeast, -fresh from the brewer's, first removing the thin liquid or beer from the -top. Stir the mixture very hard with a knife, and then add, -_gradually_, half a pound of powdered white sugar. The buns will become -heavy if the sugar is thrown in all at once. It is important that it -should be added a little at a time. Then sprinkle in, by degrees, the -extra quarter of a pound of sifted flour, and lastly add a wine-glass of -strong rose-water. When all has been well stirred, butter (with fine -fresh butter,) an oblong iron or block-tin pan, and carefully put the -bun mixture into it. Cover it with a clean cloth, and set it near the -fire to rise. It may require five hours; therefore buns wanted for tea -should be made in the forenoon. When the batter has risen very high, and -is covered with bubbles, put the pan immediately into a moderate but -steady oven, and bake it. When cool, cut the buns into squares, and ice -each one separately, if for company; the icing being flavored with lemon -or orange juice. Otherwise, you may simply sift sugar over them. These -buns were first introduced by Mrs. Goodfellow; and in her school were -always excellently made, nothing being spared that was good, and the use -of soda and other alkalis being unknown in the establishment--hartshorn -in cakes would have horrified her. - - -LADY CAKE.--This cake must be flavored highly with bitter almonds; -without them, sweet almonds have little or no taste, and are useless in -lady cake. Blanch, in scalding water, three small ounces of shelled -bitter almonds, and then lay them in a bowl of very cold water. -Afterwards wipe them dry, and pound them (one at a time,) to a smooth -paste in a clean marble mortar; adding, as you proceed, a wine-glass of -rose-water to improve the flavor, and prevent their oiling, and becoming -heavy and dark. When done, set them away in a cool place, on a saucer. -Almonds are always lighter and better when blanched and pounded the day -before. Cut up three quarters of a pound of the best fresh butter in a -pound of powdered loaf sugar. Mix it in a deep earthen pan, and stir and -beat it with a spaddle till it becomes very light and creamy. Then, -gradually, stir in the pounded almonds. Take the _whites only_ of -seventeen or eighteen fresh eggs, and beat them in a shallow pan to a -stiff froth, till they stand alone. Then stir the beaten white of egg, -gradually, into the pan of creamed butter and sugar, in turn with three -small quarters of a pound (or a pint and a half,) of sifted flour of the -very best quality. Stir the whole very hard at the last, and transfer it -to a straight-sided tin pan, well greased with excellent fresh butter. -Set the pan immediately into an oven, and bake it with a moderate but -steady heat. When it has been baking rather more than two hours, probe -it by sticking down to the bottom a twig from a corn broom, or a very -narrow knife. If it comes out clean the cake is done; if clammy or -daubed, keep it longer in the oven. A cake when quite done generally -shrinks a little. When you take it out, set it to cool on an inverted -sieve. Ice a lady cake entirely with white, and ornament it with white -flowers. It is now much in use at weddings, and if well made, and quite -fresh, there is no cake better liked. - - -CINNAMON CAKE.--Cut up half a pound of fine fresh butter, and warm it -till soft in half a pint of rich milk. Sift a pound of fine flour into a -broad pan; make a hole in the centre, and pour into it the milk and -butter, having stirred them well together. Then, gradually, add a large -quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a heaped tea-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon. Beat three eggs very smooth and thick, and stir them -in, also a wine-glass and a half of strong fresh brewer's yeast, or two -glasses of fresh baker's yeast. Then mix, (having sprinkled some over -the top,) all the flour into the hole in the centre, so as to make a -soft dough. When all is well mixed cover it, and set it to rise in a -round straight-sided tin pan. Place it near the fire, and when quite -light and cracked all over the surface, flour your pasteboard well, -place the loaf upon it, and having prepared in a pint bowl a stiff -mixture of ground cinnamon, fresh butter, and brown sugar, beaten -together so as to stand alone, make numerous deep cuts or incisions all -over the surface on the sides and top of the cake; fill them with the -cinnamon mixture, and pinch each together so as to keep the seasoning -from coming out. Glaze it all over with beaten white of egg a little -sweetened. Then return the loaf to the pan, and bake it in a moderate -oven till thoroughly done. When cool, cut it down in slices like a pound -cake. - -This dough may be divided into small round cakes, the size of a muffin, -and baked on tin or iron sheets, sifting sugar over them when cool. It -must have a high flavor of cinnamon. - - -WEST INDIA COCOA-NUT CAKE.--Cut up and peel some pieces of very ripe -cocoa-nut. Lay them for a while in cold water. Then take them out and -wipe them dry, and grate very fine as much as will weigh half a pound. -Beat eight eggs till very light, thick, and smooth. Have ready half a -pound of powdered loaf sugar, and stir it into the pan of beaten egg, -alternately with the grated cocoa-nut; adding a handful of sifted flour, -a powdered nutmeg, and a large glass of madeira or sherry, stirring the -whole very hard. Butter an oblong tin pan. Put in the mixture, set it -immediately into a quick oven, and bake it well. Set it to cool on an -inverted sieve; cut it into squares, and ice each square, flavoring the -icing with rose. - -You may bake it in a large loaf; adding double portions of all the -ingredients, and ornamenting the icing handsomely. - -_Sweet Potato Cake_--Is made like the above cocoa-nut cake. The sweet -potatos must be pared and grated _raw_, till you have as much as weighs -half a pound. Then proceed as above, and with the same ingredients and -proportions. You may boil and mash the sweet potatos; but be sure, -afterwards, to pass them through a coarse sieve, or they may chance to -clod and become heavy. If well made, and well flavored, this cake is -very nice. - - -GOLDEN CAKE.--The best time for making this cake is when ripe oranges -are plenty. For one cake select four large deep-colored oranges, and -roll each one under your hand upon a table to soften them, and increase -the juice. Weigh a pound of the best loaf sugar. On some of the largest -pieces rub off the yellow or outer rind of the oranges, omitting the -white entirely. The white or inner rind of oranges or lemons should -never be used for any thing. Cut the oranges, and squeeze their juice -through a strainer into a large saucer or a small deep plate. Powder all -the sugar, including that which has the orange zest upon it, and put it -into a deep earthen pan, with a pound of the best fresh butter cut up -among it. With a wooden spaddle stir the butter and sugar together, till -very light and creamy. In a shallow pan beat twelve eggs, omitting the -_whites_ of three. Sift into a dish a small quart of the best and finest -flour, and stir it gradually into the pan of butter and sugar and -orange, in turn with the beaten egg, a little at a time of each. Stir -the whole very hard; and when done, immediately transfer the batter to -square tin pans, greased with the same fresh butter that was used for -the cake. Many a fine cake has been spoiled, at last, by the poor -economy of greasing the pans with salt butter. Fill the pans to the top. -If the cake has been well made, and well beaten, there is no danger of -the batter running over the edges. Put it, immediately, into a quick -oven and bake it well, not allowing the heat to be lessened till the -cake is quite done. When cool, cut it into squares. If you ice it, -flavor the icing with orange juice. - -Do not attempt to make this cake with yolk of egg only, by way of -improving the yellow color. Without any whites, it will assuredly be -tough and heavy. Cakes may be made light with white of egg only, but -never with yellow of egg only. - -If you use soda, saleratus, hartshorn, or any of the alkalis, they will -entirely destroy the orange flavor, and communicate a bad taste of their -own. - - -SILVER CAKE.--Scald in a bowl of boiling water two ounces of shelled -bitter almonds. As you peel off the skins throw each almond into a bowl -of ice-cold water. When all are blanched, take them out, and wipe them -dry on a clean napkin. Put them, one at a time, into a very clean marble -mortar, and pound each one separately to a smooth paste, adding, as you -pound them, a few drops of strong rose-water, till you have used up a -large wine-glass full. As you remove the pounded almonds from the -water, lay them lightly and loosely on a plate. When all are done, put -them into a very cool place. In a deep earthen pan cut up a pound of -fresh butter into a pound of powdered sugar, and with a wooden spaddle -stir the butter and sugar together till perfectly light. Into another -pan sift three quarters of a pound of fine flour, and in a broad shallow -pan beat with small rods the whites only of eighteen eggs till they are -stiff enough to stand alone. Then, gradually, and alternately, stir into -the pan of beaten butter and sugar the flour, the beaten white of eggs, -and the pounded almonds. Give the whole a hard stirring at the last. -Transfer it to square tin pans greased with the same butter, and bake it -well. When cool, cut it into square cakes, and send it to table on china -plates, piled alternately with pieces of golden cake, handsomely -arranged. If you ice silver cake, flavor the icing with strong -rose-water. - -These cakes, (gold or silver) if made as above, will be found delicious. -The yolk of egg left from the silver cake may be used for soft custards. -But yolk of egg alone, will not raise a cake; though white of egg will. - - -APEES.--Cut up a pound of fresh butter into two pounds of sifted flour, -and rubbing the butter very fine, and mixing in a pound of powdered -sugar, with a heaped tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace, and -cinnamon, and four tea-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. Moisten the whole -with a large glass of white wine; and barely sufficient cold water to -make a stiff dough. Mix it well with a broad knife, and roll it out into -a sheet less than half an inch thick; then with the edge of a tumbler, -or a tin cake-cutter, divide it into round small cakes. Bake them in -oblong pans, (tin or iron) slightly buttered; and do not place them so -closely as to touch. Bake them in a quick oven, till they are of a pale -brown. These cakes are soon prepared, requiring neither eggs nor yeast. - - -MARMALADE MERINGUES.--Make a mixture as for apees, omitting only the -carraway seeds. Roll out the sheet of dough quite thin; cut it into -round flat cakes with the edge of a tumbler, and bake them a few -minutes, till lightly colored. Take them out of the oven and spread them -thickly with very nice marmalade, or with ripe strawberries or -raspberries, sweetened, and mashed without cooking. Have ready a stiff -meringue of beaten white of egg and sugar. Pile it high over the -marmalade on each cake. Heap it on with a spoon, so as quite to conceal -the marmalade, and do not smooth it on the top. It should stand up -_uneven_ as the spoon left it. Set it again in the oven for a minute or -two, to harden it. - - -JUMBLES.--Mix together, all at once, in a deep pan, a pound of butter -cut up in a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of sifted flour, and six -eggs, previously beaten very light in a pan by themselves. Add a -table-spoonful of powdered spice, (mixed nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon) and -a glass of mixed wine and brandy; or else a glass of rose water; or the -juice and grated yellow rind of a large lemon. Stir the whole very hard -till all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, and become a soft dough. -Flour your hands and your pasteboard, and lay the dough upon it. Take -off equal portions from the lump, and with your hands form them into -round rolls, and make them into rings by joining together the two ends -of each. Place the jumbles (not so near as to touch,) in tin pans -slightly buttered, and bake them in a very brisk oven little more than -five or six minutes, or enough to color them a light brown. If the oven -is too cool, the jumbles will spread and run into each other. When cold, -sift sugar over them. _Jumbles_ may be made with yolks of eggs only, if -the whites are wanted for something else. - -_Cocoa-nut Jumbles_--Are made as above, only with finely grated -cocoa-nut instead of flour, and with white of egg instead of yolk. - -_Cocoa-nut Puffs._--Grate any quantity of cocoa-nut. Mix it with -powdered sugar and a little beaten white of egg, and lay it in small -heaps of equal size. On the top of each place a ripe strawberry, -raspberry, or any small preserved fruit, flattening a slight hollow, to -hold it without its rolling off. - - -SCOTCH CAKE.--Take a pound of fresh butter, a pound of powdered white -sugar, and two pounds of sifted flour. Mix the sugar with the flour, and -rub the butter into it, crumbled fine. Add a heaped table-spoonful of -mixed nutmeg and cinnamon. Put _no water_, but moisten it entirely with -butter. A small glass of brandy is an improvement. Roll it out into a -large thick sheet, and cut it into round cakes about the size of -saucers. Bake them on flat tins, slightly buttered. This cake is very -crumbly but very good, and of Scottish origin. It keeps well, and is -often sent from thence, packed in boxes. - - -JELLY CAKE.--For baking jelly cake you must have large flat tin pans -rather larger than a dinner plate. But a very clean soap-stone griddle -may be substituted, though more troublesome. Make a rich batter as for -pound cake, and bake it in single cakes, (in the manner of buckwheat, or -thicker) taking care to grease the tin or soap-stone with _excellent_ -fresh butter. Have ready, enough of fruit jelly or marmalade, to spread -a thick layer all over each cake when it cools. Pile one on another very -evenly, till you have four, five, or half a dozen; and ice the surface -of the whole. Cut it down in triangular pieces like a pie. Jelly cake -is no longer made of sponge cake, which is going out of use for all -purposes, as being too often dry, tough, and insipid, and frequently not -so good as plain bread. - - -ALMOND MACAROONS.--The day before they are wanted, prepare three -quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and a quarter of a pound -of shelled bitter almonds; by scalding, blanching, and pounding them to -a smooth paste in a marble mortar, (one or two at a time) adding, as you -proceed, rose-water to prevent their oiling, and becoming dark and -heavy. Having beaten to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, and -prepared a pound of powdered loaf sugar, beat the sugar into the egg a -spoonful at a time. Then mix in gradually the pounded almonds, and add a -grated nutmeg. Stir the whole very hard, and form the mixture into small -round balls. Then flatten slightly the surface of each. Butter slightly -some shallow tin pans. Place the macaroons not so close as to be in -danger of touching; and glaze them lightly with a little beaten white of -egg. Put them into a brisk oven, and bake them a light brown. - -Ground-nut macaroons are made in the same manner. - -_Chocolate Macaroons._--Scrape down, very fine, half a pound of Baker's -prepared cocoa. Beat to a stiff froth the white of four eggs, and beat -into the white of egg a pound of powdered loaf sugar, in turn with the -chocolate, adding a little sifted flour if the mixture appears too thin. -Grease the bottom of some oblong tin pans, very slightly, with sweet -oil. Having formed the mixture into small thick cakes, lay them (not -close,) in the pan, and bake them a few minutes. Sift sugar over them -while warm. - - -KISSES.--Having beaten to a stiff froth, till it stands alone, the -whites of eight eggs, mix with it, gradually, three quarters of a pound -of finely powdered loaf sugar, beating it in very hard, a spoonful at a -time, and as you proceed flavoring it with extract of vanilla, rose, or -lemon juice. If the meringue is not thoroughly beaten and very stiff, -the kisses will lose their shape and run in baking. Try one first, and -if that runs, beat a while longer before you bake the whole. Pile -portions of the meringue on sheets of letter paper, placing each heap -far apart. Smooth and shape them with a broad knife dipped in cold -water. Make them about the size and form of half eggs, with the flat -part downwards. Arrange them on a smooth hickory board, and set it in a -quick oven, (leaving the door open) and watch them well. A few minutes -will color them a pale brown, and that is all they require. Then take -them out, and set them to cool. When cool, slip a knife carefully under -each, and remove them from the paper. Then with your knife hollow the -meringue from the base of each kiss and scrape upwards toward the top, -being careful not to break through the outside or crust. Fill up this -vacancy with any sort of stiff jelly. Then clap two halves together, and -unite them at the base, by moistening the edges with a little of the -meringue that was left. Handle them very carefully throughout. - -Large kisses, of twice or thrice the usual size, are introduced at -parties, filled with ice cream, or flavored calf's foot jelly. - -It is very customary now to finish a fine charlotte russe with a thick -layer of this jelly at the top. - - -LAFAYETTE GINGERBREAD.--Cut up in a deep pan half a pound of the best -fresh butter, with a half pound of excellent brown sugar; and stir it to -cream with a spaddle. Add a pint of West India molasses, mixed with half -a pint of warm milk; four table-spoonfuls of ginger; a heaped -table-spoonful of mixed powdered cinnamon and powdered mace and nutmeg; -and a glass of brandy. Sift in a pound and a half of fine flour. Beat -six eggs till very light and thick, and mix them, alternately, into the -pan of butter, sugar, molasses, &c. At the last, mix in the yellow rind -(grated fine) of two large oranges and the juice. Stir the whole very -hard. Melt in one cup a very small level tea-spoonful of soda, and in -another a small level salt-spoon of tartaric acid. Dissolve them both in -lukewarm water, and see that both are quite melted. First stir the soda -into the mixture, and then put in the tartaric acid. On no account -exceed the quantity of the two alkalis, as if too much is used, they -will destroy entirely the flavoring, and communicate a very disagreeable -taste instead. Few cakes are the better for any of the alkaline powders, -and many sorts are entirely spoiled by them. Even in gingerbread they -should be used very sparingly, rather less than more of the prescribed -quantity. Having buttered, (with the same butter) a large round or -oblong pan, put in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven till -thoroughly done, keeping up a steady heat, but watching that it does not -burn. There is no gingerbread superior to this, if well made. Instead of -lemon or orange, cut in half a pound of seedless raisins, dredge them -well with flour, and stir them, gradually, into the mixture. - -This is also called Franklin gingerbread. - - -GINGER NUTS.--Cut a pound of the best fresh butter into two pounds or -two quarts of sifted flour, and half a pound of fine brown sugar. Add -four heaped table-spoonfuls of ground ginger; a heaped table-spoonful of -powdered cinnamon, and the same quantity of mixed nutmeg and mace. Mix -all the ingredients thoroughly together; adding, gradually, a large pint -of West India molasses, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a lemon -or orange. Stir it very hard with a spaddle. Flour your hands, break -off pieces of the dough, and knead each piece a little; then flatten -them on the top. Make them the size of a quarter dollar. Or, (flouring -your pasteboard) roll out the dough, and cut out the ginger-nuts with -the edge of a small wine-glass. Bake them on buttered tins, having first -glazed them with a thin mixture of molasses and water. The same dough -may be baked in long straight sticks, divided by lines deeply marked -with a knife. - -There are many other gingerbreads; but any of the soft sorts may be made -with little variation from the foregoing directions for Lafayette -gingerbread; and of the hard sort of ginger-nut preparation, the above -is the basis of the rest. If the receipts are liberally and exactly -followed, it will be found that to those two none are superior. - - -PIGEON PIE.--For this pie take six fine fat tame pigeons, carefully -cleaned and picked. Lay them in cold water for an hour, changing the -water twice during that time. This is to remove what is called "the -taste of the nest." Have ready the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, -seasoned with powdered nutmeg. Place a bit of fresh butter rolled in -flour, in the inside of each pigeon, with its liver cut up, and with a -yolk of egg seasoned with powdered mace. Lay a nice tender beef steak, -or thin veal cutlet, in the bottom of a large deep dish, that has been -lined with puff-paste. Butter the steak, and dredge it with flour. -There must be meat enough to cover well the bottom of the pie dish. Lay -the pigeons upon it, with the breast downward, (their heads and feet cut -off, and their livers cut up, and put inside with the stuffing.) Fill up -the dish with water. Roll out and put on the lid of the pie, which you -may ornament with paste leaves or flowers, according to your taste. For -company, pigeon pies are expected to look handsome. It is no longer -fashionable to have the feet of the pigeons sticking out of the slit in -the top of the paste. - -Moorfowl, pheasants, partridges, or quails, may be made into pies in the -above manner. It is usual, for partridge pies, to peel two fine sweet -oranges; and having divided them into quarters, carefully remove the -strings and seeds, and put the oranges into the birds without any other -stuffing. Instead of beef steak or veal cutlet, lay a thin slice of cold -ham in the bottom of the pie-dish. - -This receipt, and the following, were accidentally omitted in their -proper places. - - -CHICKEN PIE.--Skin a pair of fine fowls, and cut them up. Save out the -necks, backs, feet, livers, and gizzards, and the ends of the pinions; -and seasoning them with a little pepper and salt add some trimmings or -spare bits of fresh beef or veal, and stew them in a small sauce-pan -with a little water, to make the gravy. Let them stew till all to rags, -and then strain off the liquid; and while hot, stir into it a beaten -egg and a bit of fresh butter, dredged with flour. In the mean time make -a nice puff-paste, and roll it out rather thick; divide it in two -circular sheets. Line with one sheet the bottom and sides of a deep pie -dish, and put in the best pieces of chicken. Lay among them four -hard-boiled eggs, sliced or quartered. Season well with powdered mace or -nutmeg. The gravy being strained, pour that into the pie, and finish at -the top with a layer of butter divided into small pieces, and dredge -with flour. This is what the old English cookery books mean when they -say--"Close the pie with a _lear_." - -A chicken pie will be improved by the addition of a dozen or more large -fresh oysters, stewed. If you add oysters, take off the lid or upper -crust as soon as the pie is baked, and put in the oysters _then_; if put -in at the beginning, they will bake too long. Replace the lid nicely, -and send the pie to table hot. - -The lid should have in the top a cross slit with a nice paste flower in -it. To make a paste flower roll out a straight narrow slip of paste, -about four or five inches wide. Roll it up with your fingers as if you -were rolling up a ribbon. Then with a sharp knife cut four clefts in the -upper half, and when baked, it will spread apart as like the leaves of a -flower. - - - - -SWEETMEATS. - - -No sweetmeats can either look well or taste well unless the fruit and -the sugar are of the best quality. As in all other branches of cookery, -it is false economy to provide bad or low-priced ingredients. It has of -late years been difficult to obtain _very_ good sugar at any price, so -much is adulterated with flour or ground starch. In the common powdered -sugar the flour is so palpable that we are surprised at its having any -sale at all; and the large quantity required to produce any perceptible -sweetness renders it totally unfit for sweetmeats, or indeed for any -thing else. The best brown sugar is better than this, having clarified -it with white of egg. To do this, allow to every pound of sugar the -beaten white of an egg, and a half pint of clear cold water. Having -poured the water on the sugar, let it stand to melt before it goes on -the fire. Then add the white of egg and put in on to boil. When it -boils, carefully take off the scum as it rises, and add when it is -boiling hard another jill or quarter pint of water for each pound of -sugar. Remove it from the fire when the scum ceases to rise, and let it -stand for a quarter of an hour to settle. Strain, and bottle it for use. -The best brown sugar _thus prepared_ will make a good syrup; and good -marmalade, when white sugar of the best quality is not to be obtained. -But for the nicest sweetmeats use always, if you can, the best -double-refined loaf. - -In warm weather there is nothing better for a preserving fire than a -portable charcoal furnace placed out in the open air; as in a room with -the doors or windows shut the vapor of charcoal is deadly, and never -fails to produce suffocation. Of whatever the fire is made, it should be -clear and steady without smoke or blaze. Never use copper or bell-metal -for either preserving or pickling. For all such purposes employ only -iron, lined with what is called porcelain or enamel, but is in reality a -thick strong white earthen, first made at Delft, in Holland. This lining -will crack if the kettle is placed over a blaze, which it should never -be. All sweetmeats should be boiled with the lid off. If covered, the -steam having no means of escaping, returns upon them, and causes them to -look dark and unsightly. When done, put the sweetmeats warm into jars or -glasses, and leave them open a few hours that the watery particles may -evaporate, but have them all pasted and closely covered before night. Do -nothing to render your preserves hard, or firm, as it is called. It is -better to have them soft and tender. The old custom of steeping them for -days in salt and water, and then boiling them in something else to -remove the salt, is now considered foolish, and is seldom practised. - -Put up jellies and small sweetmeats in common tumblers, laying on the -surface of each a double cover of white tissue paper cut exactly to fit, -and then put on another cover of thick white paper pleated and notched -where it descends below the edge, using always gum tragacanth paste, -which you should keep always in the house, as it requires no boiling; -and if in making it, a bit of corrosive sublimate (not larger than a -cherry-stone) is dissolved with the ounce of gum tragacanth and the half -pint of warm water, in a yellow or white-ware mug, and _stirred only -with a stick_, the paste will never spoil, and if kept covered, will be -found superior to all others. No metal must touch this cement, as it -will then turn black and spoil. - -Keep your sweetmeats always in a dry place. But if after a while you see -a coat of mould on the surface, you need not throw them away, till you -have tried to recover them by carefully removing every particle of -mould, filling up the jars with fresh sugar, and setting them, one by -one, in a bottle of water, and in this way boiling them over again. But -if they have an unpleasant smell, and you see insects about them, of -course they must be thrown away. To purify jars, clean and scrape them, -and wash them thoroughly with ley and water, or with a solution of -soda--afterwards exposing them to the sun and air for a week or more. - -_Jellies._--We have already given directions for various fruit jellies -in the chapter on Fine Desserts. They are all made nearly in the same -manner, using the juice of the fruit, and sufficient sugar to make it -congeal and to keep it. Jellies should always be bright and transparent, -and therefore require the best and ripest of fruit and the finest of -loaf sugar. - - -MARMALADE OR JAMS.--Marmalade or jams are the easiest sweetmeats to -make, and are useful for all sweetmeat purposes. They are all made -nearly in the same manner; and to be very good, and to keep well, at -least a pound of fine sugar should be allowed to every pound of -fruit--the fruit being quite ripe, freshly gathered, and of the best -kind. - -_For Peach Marmalade_--Take fine, juicy free-stone peaches. Pare them; -cut them in half; remove the stones, and let them be saved and the -kernels extracted to use as bitter almonds. Cut up the peaches, and -allow for each pound a pound of sugar. Lay the peaches (with all the -sugar among them,) in a large pan or tureen, and let them rest for three -or four hours. Boil the peaches and sugar together in a porcelain kettle -(without a cover) for half an hour, skimming and stirring well. When it -becomes a thick smooth mass it is finished. Put it up in glass jars, and -leave it uncovered till cool; but not longer. The flavor will be much -improved by boiling with the peaches and sugar one or two handfuls of -the kernels, blanched and pounded; or else a bunch of fresh peach -leaves, to be removed afterward. - -_Quince Marmalade_ is made in the same manner--first carefully removing -all the blemishes. Allow a pound of sugar to a pound of quinces. They -must boil longer than peaches. All marmalades must be cooked till the -form of the fruit is quite indistinguishable, and till it mashes into a -thick smooth mass. Quinces should be allowed to remain on the trees till -after the first frost, which greatly improves them. Persimmons and wild -grapes are not eatable till they are touched by the frost. - -_Tomato Marmalade._--Make this when lemons are ripe and plenty. To every -two pounds of tomatos allow two pounds of sugar, and the grated yellow -rind and the juice of one lemon. The worst way of using lemons for any -purpose is to merely slice them. Depend on the slices for flavoring, and -they are wasted; the taste being scarcely perceptible. They should -always be first rolled under your hand, which increases the yield of -juice. Then grate off from the outside the _yellow_ rind only (the white -part of the rind is worse than useless,) and having cut the lemon, -squeeze the juice through a tin strainer to exclude the seeds, which -otherwise would be troublesome to pick out. The yellow rind and the -juice are all you need want of a lemon for any purpose of flavoring. -Scald the tomatos to make them peel easily, and mix the sugar thoroughly -with them. Boil them slowly for an hour in a porcelain kettle, skimming -carefully, and stirring well after each skimming. Then add the lemon -grate and the juice, and boil the marmalade another half hour, or till -it is a thick smooth mass. - -_Pumpkin Marmalade._--Take a fine ripe high-colored pumpkin. Cut it up. -Empty it very clean of the seeds and strings; take off a thick paring. -Slice the pieces small and thin, and weigh them. To each pound of -pumpkin allow a pound of powdered sugar, and the grated peel and the -juice of one large lemon. Pumpkin sweetmeats require a high lemon -flavoring. Boil the pumpkin alone, till quite soft. Then mash it in a -cullender till the water is pressed out, and the pumpkin left dry. -Afterwards put it into a porcelain kettle, mix with it the sugar and -lemon, and boil it again till it becomes a thick jam. Cantaloupe -marmalade is made in the same way with lemon and sugar--also marmalade -of ripe figs. - -_Plum Marmalade._--Choose plums that are fully ripe. Allow to each pound -a pound and a half of sugar. Scald them till the skins peel off easily, -and extract all the stones. Lay them in the sugar for two or three hours -or more, and then boil them till they become a thick smooth mass. -Green-gages the same. - -_Raspberry Jam._--To every quart of fine ripe raspberries allow a pound -of best loaf sugar, powdered. Put them together into a broad white-ware -pan, and let them rest for two or three hours. Then boil them in an -uncovered porcelain kettle, taking off the scum carefully. When no more -scum rises, mash them, and boil them to a smooth thick marmalade. When -cold, put it up in half pint tumblers, and cover them with rounds of -double tissue paper, cut exactly to fit, and then with thick white -paper dipped in brandy. - -_Strawberry Jam._--The strawberries must be quite ripe, and very fine. -Allow to each quart a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Put them into a -large white-ware pan; a layer of sugar and a layer of strawberries -alternately, finishing with strawberries on the top. Let them rest in -the sugar and juice three or four hours. Then boil and skim them till -they become very thick and smooth. When cold, put them up in tumblers, -with double tissue paper over the top. Blackberry jam is made in the -same manner. - -_Gooseberry Jam._--Top and tail the gooseberries, which must be -thoroughly ripe, and with thin skins. They require to every pound of -fruit a pound and a half of sugar of the best sort. Mash them with a -wooden beetle, and put them with all the sugar into an uncovered -porcelain kettle, and boil and skim them. When half done add more sugar, -and continue boiling till they are a very thick marmalade. When cold, -cover the tumblers with brandy paper. - -_Pine-apple Marmalade._--Take the best and ripest pine-apples; remove -the leaves, and split each pine-apple into four pieces, and cut out the -core from the centre. Stand the pieces upright in a deep dish, and, with -a large coarse grater grate down all the _flesh_ of the fruit, as it is -called. To every pint of grated pine-apple allow a pound of powdered -loaf sugar, and put them together in a large tureen. Let them rest two -hours. Then transfer the whole to a porcelain kettle. Leave it -uncovered; and boil, skim, and stir, till it becomes a very thick -marmalade. When cool, put it up in glass jars. It is a very nice -sweetmeat, particularly for shells or tarts. - -_Grape Marmalade._--Take a sufficiency of fine grapes, thoroughly ripe. -Having picked them from the stems, mash them with a wooden beetle, and -then press them through a sieve. To every pint of the pulp allow a pound -of powdered sugar, well mixed in; let it stand an hour or two. Then boil -it, uncovered, in a porcelain kettle, skimming and stirring well, till -it is very thick and smooth. When cool, put it up in small marmalade -pots of white-ware with lids, and paste a band of thick white paper -round each, at the small crack where the cover fits on. A good marmalade -for the backwoods may be made of wild grapes and maple sugar. - -_Cherry Marmalade._--If you cannot procure morellas, (the best of all -cherries for sweetmeats) use the large Virginia or carnation cherries. -Black cherries are unfit for cooking. Stem and stone your cherries, -saving all the juice you can. Allow a pound of powdered loaf sugar to -every pint of cherries. Boil the fruit and the sugar together, -uncovered, for an hour, skimming and stirring. When cool, put it in -white-ware marmalade pots and paste the lids. - -_Orange Marmalade._--Quarter some large ripe oranges, and remove the -rind, the seeds, and the strings or filaments, taking care to save all -the juice. Put the pulp, with the juice, into a porcelain kettle, and -mix with it an equal quantity of strained honey, adding sufficient -powdered loaf sugar to render it very thick and sweet. The honey alone -will not make it sweet enough. Boil it uncovered, and skim it till very -thick, smooth, and clear. Taste it, and if necessary add more sugar, and -boil it longer. When cold, put it up in tumblers or white-ware marmalade -pots, and cover it securely. This marmalade is exquisite, and very -superior to any other. - -_Orange Milk._--Take four dozen large ripe juicy oranges, and roll them -under your hand. Cut them in two; remove the seeds, and squeeze the -juice into a large clean stone jar. Have ready four pounds of the best -double-refined loaf sugar, dissolved in a gallon of French brandy. Pour -it into the jar that contains the orange juice; stir the mixture well, -and add the yellow rind of the oranges, pared so thin from the white as -to be transparent, and divide it into bits. Cover the jar, and let it -stand four days, stirring it frequently. Then take a gallon of new -unskimmed milk, (the morning's milk of that day,) boil it alone, and -when it comes to a hard boil pour it into the mixture of orange, sugar, -and brandy. Cover it closely, and let it stand till quite cold. Then -strain it into another vessel through a linen jelly bag. Bottle it -immediately, and seal the corks. It improves by keeping. To use it, pour -it out in half tumblers, and fill up with ice water, or serve it round -undiluted in small cordial glasses, after ice-cream. It is much -admired, and in orange countries may be made in large quantities. Lemon -milk is made in the same manner, having a larger proportion of sugar. - -_Fruit in Syrups._--Make a syrup in the proportion of half a pint of -water to every pound of sugar, and a pint of the juice of any sort of -fine ripe fruit. Boil and skim it till very clear, but not till it -congeals or jellies. Then bottle it, and cork the bottles. As the fresh -fruit comes again into season, select the finest, largest, and ripest. -For instance, half fill a white-ware preserve jar with fine fresh -strawberries, and fill up from a bottle of strawberry syrup; or ripe -raspberries with raspberry syrup; currants, with currant syrup, &c. -Cover them closely till wanted for immediate use. - - -PRESERVED CITRON MELONS.--Take some fine citron melons; pare, core, and -cut them into slices. Then weigh them; and, to every six pounds of -melon, allow six pounds of the best double refined loaf sugar, and the -juice and yellow rind (grated very fine,) of four large fresh lemons, -and _a quarter_ of a pound of root ginger. - -Put the slices of lemon into a preserving kettle, and boil them half an -hour or more, till they look _quite_ clear, and are so tender that a -broom twig will pierce through them. Then drain them; lay them in a -broad pan of cold water, cover them, and let them stand all night. In -the morning tie the root ginger in a thin muslin cloth, and boil it in -three pints of clear spring or pump water till the water is highly -flavored. Then take out the bag of ginger. Having broken up the sugar -put it into a clean preserving kettle, and pour the ginger water over -it. When the sugar is all melted set it over the fire, put in the grated -yellow peel of the lemons, and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. -Then put in the sliced citrons, and the juice of the lemons; and boil -them in the syrup till all the slices are quite transparent, and so soft -that a straw will go through them; but do not allow them to break. When -quite done, put the slices (while still warm,) into wide-mouthed glass -or white-ware jars, and gently pour on the syrup. Lay inside of each -jar, upon the top of the syrup, a round of white paper dipped in brandy. -Put on the lids of the jars, and tie leather over them. - -This will be found a delicious sweetmeat; equal to any imported from the -West Indies, and far less expensive. - - -PINE-APPLES PRESERVED.--Take six fine large pine-apples, as ripe as you -can get them. Make them very clean, but do not, at first, pare off the -rind or cut off the leaves. The rind and leaves being left on while -boiling will _keep in_ the flavor of the fruit. Put the pine-apples -whole into a very large and very clean iron pot. Fill it up with cold -water, and boil the pine-apples till they are so tender that you can -pierce them through the rind to the core, with a splinter skewer or a -twig from a corn broom. Then take them out of the pot, and drain them. -When they are so cool as to be handled without inconvenience, remove the -leaves, and pare off the rind. Cut then into round slices about half an -inch thick, extracting the core from the centre as to leave a small -round hole in every slice. Weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow -a pound of double refined loaf sugar, broken up and powdered. Cover the -bottom of a large dish or dishes with a thick layer of the sugar. On -this place a layer of pine-apple slices; then a layer of sugar; then a -layer of fruit, and so on till the slices are all thickly covered, -finishing with a layer of sugar at the top. Let them stand twenty-four -hours. Then drain the slices from the syrup, and lay them in wide jars. -Put all the syrup into a clear porcelain kettle, and boil and skim it -till the scum ceases to rise. Then pour it hot upon the pine-apple. -While warm, cover the jars closely with white paper cut to fit, and -dipped in brandy; and then tie on a piece of bladder. There is no better -way of preserving pine-apples, or that retains the flavor so well. - -Quinces may be preserved in the same manner. - - -PRESERVED LEMONS OR ORANGES.--The fruit must be perfectly ripe, of the -best quality, with a smooth rind and fine color. Cut out from the stem -end of each, a piece not quite the size of a quarter dollar, and with a -small knife scoop out all the inside, keeping the rind as whole as -possible. Put the pulp and juice into a large bowl, and clear it from -the strings and seeds. Lay the skins in a tureen of cold ice water, and -change it twice during the day, (fresh water and fresh ice); and at -bedtime put ice only. Next morning boil the skins slowly in a porcelain -kettle with plenty of water, keeping them well covered. Continue to boil -till they are tender all through, and can easily be pierced with a -splinter skewer. Then drain them, and lay them in cold water -immediately. Take care to boil with them the small round pieces that -come out of the top. Make a thick jelly or marmalade of the pulp and -juice of these, and some additional fruit, allowing to a pint of juice a -pound of loaf sugar. When the jelly has been boiled till clear and firm -when held in the air, fill with it the skins so as to swell them out -into a good shape. Replace the small circular pieces that have been cut -off the top of the fruit, and tie them on securely with packthread, so -as to keep in the jelly. Next make a thin syrup, allowing to a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar half a pint of fresh juice, and the beaten white of -an egg. Boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Then having put the -oranges into large glass jars rather more than half full, pour the syrup -on them, filling up to the top. - -_To Green Small Lemons or Limes._--Boil them first in a little hard -water, placing them in a porcelain kettle with a thick bed of fresh vine -leaves under them and a thick cover of vine leaves over them. Boil them -till green and tender in two or three waters, putting entirely fresh -vine leaves whenever you change the water, and persisting till they are -well greened. Then make holes in the stem end, and extract the pulp, -strings, and seeds, and proceed as directed in the last receipt. The -skins, as soon as empty, being laid in cold water, and then filled and -shaped out with lemon jelly, and the jars filled up warm with lemon -syrup. Or by putting a larger portion of sugar, and boiling the syrup -longer, you may candy it all over the surface of the fruit. - -Green limes are preserved in the above manner, filling the skins with -lemon jelly. To candy the syrup use a double portion of sugar, and boil -it till it bubbles and sparkles in the kettle. - - -PEACHES PRESERVED.--Take the finest ripe free-stone peaches. Pare them, -cut them in half, and remove the stones. To every pound of peaches allow -a pound of double refined loaf sugar, and half the white of an egg -(slightly beaten) with half a pint of very clear soft water. Put the -sugar into a porcelain preserving kettle, mix it with the water and -white of egg, and when it has entirely dissolved, set it over the fire, -and boil and skim it till the scum ceases to rise, which will be very -soon, if the sugar is as good as it should be. There is no economy in -using inferior sugar for sweetmeats, as much of it will be lost in -skimming and sediment. In the mean time, boil in a little sauce-pan a -bunch of fresh green peach leaves that have been cleared from all dust; -or a handful of broken-up peach kernels. When the flavor is well -extracted, strain this water and mix it with the syrup. Then put in the -halved peaches, and boil them (uncovered) till quite clear and soft, but -not till they break. While warm, put them up with the syrup in glass or -white-ware jars. - -Apricots are preserved in the same way. - -_Preserved Green Gages._--Get the largest and ripest green gages, or egg -plums. Scald them in boiling water to make them peel easily; the skins -of all sorts of plums becoming very hard and tough when preserved. -Remove the stems; they are no ornament, and render them troublesome to -eat. Make a syrup in the usual way, allowing to each pound of plums a -pound of the finest loaf sugar, half a pint of water, and half a white -of egg. When well skimmed and boiled put in the plums, and boil them -gently till quite clear and soft, but not till broken. All plums may be -done in this manner. If not as ripe as possible, they will require to -each pound of fruit a pound and a half of the best sugar. - - -BRANDY PEACHES.--Take large juicy _free-stone_ peaches, not so ripe as -to burst or mash on being handled. Rub off the down from every one with -a clean thick flannel. Prick every peach down to the stone with a large -silver fork, and score them all along the seam or cleft. To _each_ pound -of peaches allow a pound of double-refined loaf sugar, broken-up small, -and a half pint of water mixed with half a white of egg, slightly -beaten. Put the sugar into a porcelain kettle, and pour the water upon -it. When it is quite melted give it a stirring, set it over the fire, -and boil and skim it till no more scum rises. Next put in the peaches, -and let them cook (uncovered) in the syrup till they look clear, or for -about half an hour, or till a straw will penetrate them. Then take the -kettle off the fire. Having allotted a pint of the very best white -brandy to each pound of peaches, mix it with the syrup, after taking out -the fruit with a wooden spoon, and draining it over the kettle. Put the -peaches into a large tureen. Let the syrup remain in the kettle a little -longer. Mix the brandy with it, and boil them together ten minutes, or -more. Transfer the peaches to large glass jars, (two thirds full,) and -pour the brandy and syrup over them, filling quite up to the top. When -cool, cover them closely, and tie some bladder over the lids. - -_Green Gages_--Are brandied in the same manner. Also, large egg-plums. -Pears also, having first peeled them. To pear sweetmeats always add -lemon rind grated, and lemon juice. - - -PRESERVED TOMATOS.--This is an excellent and popular sweetmeat, when -flavored well with lemon, which is indispensable to making it palatable. -Also, it should be well penetrated with sugar, therefore it is best not -to attempt preserving tomatos whole. The best time for doing them is in -the height of the lemon season. The most convenient for preserving are -those with smooth even surfaces. If fluted or cleft they are difficult -to peel when scalded, as the skins do not strip off so easily. Having -weighed the tomatos, (which must be full-grown and quite ripe) allow to -every two pounds, two pounds of the best _brown_ sugar, a large spoonful -of ground ginger, and the juice and grated yellow rind of one large ripe -lemon, rolled awhile under your hand. Having scalded and peeled all the -tomatos, and mixed with the sugar a little beaten white of egg, put them -into a porcelain-lined preserving kettle, (uncovered,) and add, -gradually, the sugar. Boil the tomatos and sugar _slowly_ together, till -the scum ceases to appear. Then add, gradually, the lemons, (peel and -juice,) and boil slowly for an hour or more. The tomatos must all have -bursted, otherwise they will not keep, from the sugar not getting -sufficiently into them. When done, take them off the fire, and transfer -to glass jars the tomatos with their syrup. - -For yellow preserves take yellow tomatos, scald and peel them, and prick -each with a silver fork. Lay them in a porcelain preserving kettle with -plenty of fresh vine leaves under and over them. Boil them with the vine -leaves till they become a finer yellow. Then wash out the kettle and -boil the tomatos, as above, with the _white_ sugar, and add the lemon. - -_Green Tomatos Preserved._--Take green tomatos when they are full grown, -but have not yet begun to turn in the least red. Scald and peel them, -and lay them in a porcelain kettle with plenty of fresh vine leaves at -the bottom. Cover them thickly with another layer of vine leaves at the -top. Boil them very slowly with the vine leaves till they have all -turned yellow. Then take them out, and spread them on large dishes. Wash -the kettle, put in fresh vine leaves under and over the tomatos. They -should become a fine green with the second boiling in vine leaves; -otherwise repeat the greening. Then take them out, wash the kettle -again, and return the tomatos to it with _a pound and a half of white -sugar_ to each pound of tomatos. Boil and skim, till all is clear and -nice. Then add the grated yellow rind and the juice of one large lemon -to every pound of tomatos, and boil slowly an hour longer. All the -tomatos should burst, that the sugar may thoroughly enter the inside. -Before you cover the jars, stir into each an additional quarter or half -pound of powdered sugar. Green tomatos require a high flavoring of -lemon, as they have no peculiar taste of their own. - - -PRESERVED QUINCES.--Take the largest and ripest yellow quinces; after -they have remained on the trees till the first frost. Wipe them clean, -and boil them whole till they are tender all through, and can be easily -penetrated with a splinter skewer. Save and strain the water in which -they were boiled. When cool, pare and core the quinces, and carefully -remove the blemishes. To every pound of fruit allow a pound of the best -double-refined loaf sugar. Make a syrup of the water in which the -quinces were boiled, allowing half a pint of this water to every pound -of sugar. When melted, set it in a porcelain kettle over a moderate -fire, and boil and skim it till no more scum appears. Then put in the -fruit, either whole or quartered, or cut into circular slices about half -an inch thick; and boil it uncovered. When the quinces are quite clear -and soft, (but not the least broken) take them out, and spread them on -large flat dishes. Afterwards transfer them to large glass jars, rather -more than half filled; pour the syrup warm over them; and when cool -cover the jars, and tie pieces of bladder over the covers. You may boil, -by themselves, the cores and parings, in as much water as will cover -them well, till they are entirely dissolved. Then strain them through a -linen bag, and while hot stir in as much powdered loaf sugar as will -form a thick jelly. If the quinces have been preserved whole, fill up -with this jelly the holes left by the cores; or if sliced, spread the -jelly over the slices. Quinces soon become very hard and tough, unless -they have been well boiled by themselves, before putting them into the -sugar. Merely scalding or coddling them is not sufficient. If you have -not jelly for filling up the holes, substitute marmalade. To keep -quinces well, requires plenty of rich syrup. - - -PRESERVED CRAB-APPLES.--Take the finest Siberian crab-apples, which -being always red, and having a pleasant acid, are the only sort now used -for preserving. Rub each crab-apple with a dry clean flannel, and then -prick every one in several places with a large needle to prevent their -bursting. To every pound of fruit allow a pound and a half of -double-refined loaf sugar, and a pint of water. First make a syrup of -the sugar and water, boiling it in a porcelain kettle, and skimming it -till perfectly clear. Put in the crab-apples, adding for each pound the -juice and grated yellow rind of a large lemon. The lemon is -indispensable to this sweetmeat. Simmer them slowly in this syrup till -tender all through, so that they can be pierced with a twig of -broom-corn; but do not allow them to break. When done, put them up warm -in glass jars more than half full, and the syrup over them. You may -heighten the fine red color with a little prepared cochineal--that is, -cochineal powder kept in a bottle after being boiled with alum and cream -of tartar. - -_Bellflower Apples or Large Pippins_--May be preserved whole in the -above manner. They look handsomely on a supper table, covered all over -with a thick meringue or icing flavored with lemon or rose, and spread -smoothly over every apple with a real rose-bud stuck in the top of each. -You may color the icing a beautiful pink, by mixing with it a little -prepared cochineal. - - -PRESERVED CHERRIES.--No cherries are worth preserving except morellas, -or the large Virginia red, or carnation cherries. Stem and stone them -carefully, saving the juice; and strew them thickly with powdered white -sugar. To a quart of cherries allow a pound of the best loaf sugar. Make -a syrup, allowing half a pint of water to a pound of sugar. Boil and -skim it, and when the scum has ceased to rise put in the cherries and -their juice, and give them a slow boil up. Put them up warm in glass or -white-ware jars, and tie bladder over the lids. - - -FINE PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES.--Have ready two sorts of strawberries, one -half being of the largest and finest scarlet sort, (not too ripe,) the -other smaller and less expensive, but quite ripe and perfectly fresh and -nice. Put the smaller ones into a porcelain kettle, having allowed three -quarters of a pound of double-refined loaf sugar to every quart of -fruit. Boil the sugar and small strawberries together; skimming well, -and stirring down to the bottom after every skimming, and mashing it to -a jam. When done, set it to cool in a large pan; wash the kettle clean, -or take another one, and make in it a clear syrup, allowing to each -pound of the best loaf sugar a _small_ half pint of water. When melted -set it over the fire, and boil and skim till the scum ceases to rise. -Put the large strawberries in this, and give them one boil up. If boiled -too long they will break. As soon as they have come to a boil take them -(one at a time,) with a silver tea-spoon, and lay them separately on -large flat dishes. Then mix the syrup with the jam thoroughly together, -and boil it a quarter of an hour. Put the large strawberries, one at a -time, into glass jars, (more than half full,) and fill up to the top -with the hot jam. When cool lay a round of brandy paper on the surface, -and secure the lids by tying pieces of bladder over them. - - -STRAWBERRIES IN WINE.--Put a small quart of fine large scarlet -strawberries into a glass jar, having sprinkled among them a quarter of -a pound of the best loaf sugar. Fill up the jar with madeira or sherry. -They are served at parties in small glass saucers, heaped on the top -with whipped cream, or with white ice cream. What is sold by many -confectioners as strawberry ice cream, has in reality no strawberries -about it; as may be known by its beautiful rose color, such as -strawberry juice never produces, particularly after being preserved with -sugar. This fine delicate pink tinge comes in reality from alkanet. Most -of what is called strawberry cordial, is in reality alcohol colored with -that elegant dye. - - -STRAWBERRY WINE.--Fill four glass jars holding each a quart, with fine -ripe strawberries that have been hulled or picked clean. Cover them; -set them in a large kettle of cold water, and place it in a moderate -heat till it gradually comes to a boil. Then let it boil but five -minutes. Cork the jars, and seal them closely before you take them out -of the water. Use the cement of two-thirds resin and one-third beeswax. -Keep the jar for four weeks in a dry cool place. By that time you will -find the strawberries with a thick white scum at the top, and a clear -juice at the bottom. Pour it into clean bottles, through a funnel with a -fine straining cloth. Cork the bottles, but do not drive the corks hard -down, lest the bottles should burst if too tight. Arrange the bottles on -the kitchen mantleshelf, where they may have some heat from the fire. -You will see when a vinous fermentation takes place. It may continue a -week. When it has entirely subsided, and is very clear, strain off the -liquid from the sediment into fresh bottles, and cork them tightly. When -you put them away, lay the bottles on their sides. This is a delicious -cordial, and requires no brandy in it. - -_Preserved Gooseberries._--Top and tail the gooseberries, which should -be of two sorts, and as ripe as you can get. The best kind quite ripe, -large, and of a light amber color. Wash the others, and boil them in a -porcelain kettle with barely water enough to keep them from burning. -When they are soft and broken, mash the pulp through a sieve, or squeeze -it through a linen bag. Measure it, and to each pint allow a large pound -of powdered loaf sugar. Boil the sugar with the pulp, skimming and -stirring it till it begins to jelly. Then put in the large gooseberries, -and give them one boil up. When done take them out separately, and -spread them on a large flat dish. Continue to boil the syrup a while -longer, till you find it congeals well on holding out a spoonful in the -open air. Then put the large gooseberries into jars, and pour the syrup -over them while still hot and liquid. Put them up warm. - -_Raspberries_--May be preserved as above, reserving the finest for -putting whole into the jelly. The large white raspberries make a fine -sweetmeat, done whole in jelly or jam of white currants. - -Black currants should always be made into jelly or jam. They require -less sugar than other sweetmeats, (a quarter of a pound less) their -juice being naturally very thick. - - -COUNTRY PLUMS.--Gather your plums when perfectly ripe, and ready to fall -from the trees. Split them with a knife, and remove the stones. Spread -them out on large dishes, so as not to touch, and set them in the hot -sun on a sunny roof or balcony; taking them in every evening before -dark, and not putting them out till after the dew is off in the morning. -Repeat this for three or four days. Then pack them down in stone jars -with a large quantity of the best brown sugar, a layer of plums and a -layer of sugar alternately, (sugar being at the bottom and top) and -cover the jars closely. Let them remain undisturbed till February or -March. When opened, you will have plenty of rich syrup among them. They -make good spring pies, and will be prized for family use at that season. - -_Country Grapes._--The little wild grapes have a very pleasant taste -after the first frost in the autumn, and should not be gathered till -that time. Until frosted, they are too sour to eat. To keep them all -winter, strip them from the stems and put them in stone jars with layers -of good brown sugar, till the jars are three parts full. Then fill up to -the top with West India molasses. They will make good winter pies, when -cranberries, dried peaches, and dried apples are scarce. - -_Persimmon Jam._--Do not gather persimmons till late in the fall, when -they are well sweetened with the frost. They are unfit to eat till all -the leaves are off the trees, and till they are ripe enough to mash. -Then pack them in jars with plenty of brown sugar. Maple sugar will do. -In the back-woods they will be valued. When cooked they will be improved -by the addition of a little _sweet_ cider. - - - - -PICKLES. - - -For pickles the articles should all be fine and freshly gathered. They -are generally too hard to be cut or eaten conveniently, and there is too -much unnecessary fear of pickles proving soft. It is not now customary -to keep them for weeks in salt and water; two or three days will be -sufficient for this part of the process, and some kinds do not require -it at all. The arts of both preserving and pickling are of late years -much simplified. All pickles have nearly the same taste, and there is no -use (and much trouble) in multiplying varieties, when a few sorts of the -very best will be found amply sufficient for any table. One important -point to be always observed, is to use none but the most wholesome -vinegar, (the genuine cider,) as all that is made of drugs is -unwholesome to the eater and destructive to the pickles. On no -consideration boil them in brass, copper, or bell-metal--things which -fortunately are now nearly exploded from all kitchens; iron lined with -Delft, (called porcelain,) being universally substituted. - -To green pickles boil them with a thick bed of fresh vine leaves, both -under and over them. This will first render them yellow; then boil them -again in a clean kettle with fresh vine leaves. If not green enough when -you think they are done, repeat the boiling again, with fresh vine -leaves and fresh water. Avoid eating pickles that are of a fine -verdigris green. They are greened with copper, and are poisonous. - -If you cannot obtain vine leaves, you may green pickles by boiling them -with fresh cabbage leaves under and over. The first boiling will turn -them yellow, the second with new leaves should render them green. But -vine leaves are better and more certain. Put them up warm in stone or, -glass jars with broad flat corks; and tie kid leather over them. - - -INDIA PICKLE.--For this pickle you may use a variety of _young_ fruits -and vegetables. For instance, red cherries, grapes, plums, apricots, -young peaches, or lemons, limes, button-tomatos, cauliflowers sliced, -white cabbage sliced, hard-boiled eggs sliced, little onions, -nasturtions, small cucumbers, &c. Having nicely prepared these things, -put them all together into a large porcelain kettle, and scald them in a -strong brine made in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of fine salt -to a quart of boiling water. Pour it hot over the pickles, and let them -remain in it till next day. Then take them out, and drain off all the -brine through a sieve. Spread them out (so as not to touch,) on large -flat dishes or old japan servers, and set them in the hot sun for three -or four days; carefully taking them in at evening, and if the weather -becomes damp or cloudy. Afterwards put them into a cullender or sieve, -wash them well through cold water, and then wipe them all dry with a -coarse cloth. Put them into a large pan. Mix together a quarter pound of -grated horse-radish, sliced; two cloves of garlic; half a hundred small -white onions; two ounces of mace; a quarter of a pound of ground ginger; -two nutmegs, powdered; two pounds of powdered loaf sugar; half a bottle -of the best ground mustard; half a pound of yellow mustard seed, and an -ounce of turmeric powder, which must on no account be omitted, as a -yellow tinge is indispensable to this pickle. Mix all the seasoning with -sufficient excellent cider vinegar to render it liquid, and pour it over -the pickles in the pan, and then stir them up from the bottom. Let the -whole rest till cold. Then transfer it to stone jars. Have ready some -more vinegar, pour it boiling hot on the pickles, &c., but do not fill -up to the top, as they expand and rise. - - -PICKLED PEACHES.--Take eight fine large free-stone peaches, (white or -yellow,) when nearly but not quite ripe. Wipe off the down with a clean -flannel, and put them into a brine strong enough to bear up an egg. In -two days take them out, and drain them for several hours on an inverted -sieve. Tie in a piece of thin muslin one ounce of whole white pepper; -one of broken-up ginger; eight blades of mace, and two ounces of mustard -seed. Boil this seasoning for ten minutes in a quart of the best cider -vinegar. Lay the peaches in a broad-mouthed stone jar, with the bag of -spice at the bottom, and pour the vinegar boiling hot upon them. At the -top add a table-spoonful of salad oil. Put them up warm, and secure them -with broad flat corks, and rounds of leather tied on carefully. - -_Peach Mangoes._--The above sort of peaches are best for mangoes. Steep -them in brine for two days. Cut a small piece out of each, and carefully -loose the stones from the inside with a small sharp knife. It will then -be easy to thrust them out of free-stone peaches, and none others should -be used, either for pickling or preserving. Make a filling for the -places that were occupied by the stones. For this purpose, use fresh -mustard seed moistened with vinegar; scraped horse-radish, powdered -ginger, a clove of garlic, or a minced shalot or very small onion, and a -very little chilli or red pepper minced very small. Also a little -powdered mace, and a little chopped peach. With this mixture stuff the -peaches hard. Replace the bits that were cut off, and tie them on firmly -with fine packthread, crossing the peach. Boil a quart of the best -vinegar, seasoned with white spices and mustard seed, tied up in muslin; -and when it has boiled ten minutes, pour it hot over the peach mangoes -in a stone jar. Add at the top a table-spoonful of salad oil; cork the -jar immediately, and tie leather over it. Where there is no dislike to -cloves, you may stick half a dozen into the outside of each peach; but -we think a few small bits of mace will be preferable, as the clove -taste will overpower every thing else. - - -MELON MANGOES.--Take the small green melons, used only for this purpose, -and let them lie in a strong brine for two days. Take them out and drain -them well. Cut a small square bit out of one side, and through this hole -extract all the seeds and filaments. Have ready a stuffing made of -grated horse-radish, white mustard seed, minced shalot, or a clove of -garlic chopped fine; a very little chilli or red pepper, and a little -powdered mace. Wet this stuffing well with vinegar, and then fill with -it the cavity of the mango. Replace the bit that was cut out, and tie it -in with packthread, crossing all over the melon. Then place the mangoes -in a stone jar. Have ready a sufficiency of the best vinegar, (a large -quart or more, for eight or ten mangoes,) boiled ten minutes, with a -seasoning of mustard seed, ginger, mace, grated horse-radish, and -chopped shalot or little onion, or a clove of garlic minced very -small--all tied in a bit of muslin. Pour the vinegar boiling hot over -the mangoes, having placed among them the bag of seasoning. Finish with -sweet oil at the top of the jar. - - -MUSHROOMS PICKLED.--For pickling, the small button mushrooms are best. -After cutting off the stalk closely, and with a sharp penknife peeling -off carefully their thin outside skin, measure two quarts, taking care -that they are all of the right sort, and freshly gathered; the outside -of a dull whitish color, and the underside of a fine pinkish salmon -tinge. If very white above and below, or if bright yellow, they are -poisonous. _Good_ mushrooms grow always in open fields or airy places; -never in woods or marshes. To pickle two quarts, prepare eight little -bags of very clear muslin; and tie up in each bag six blades of mace, -six slices of root ginger, and half a nutmeg broken up. Have ready four -glass jars, such as are considered to hold a quart. Lay a bag of spice -in the bottom of each. Having sprinkled the mushrooms well with salt, -let them rest till next day. Then divide the mushrooms and their liquor -into four pints. Put one pint into each jar, with a bag of spice at the -bottom, and another at the top. Pour on boiling cider vinegar of the -best quality, and finish with a table-spoonful of salad oil. Cork the -jars immediately, and tie leather carefully over the top. All mushrooms -turn brown on the under-side the day after they are gathered, and -sometimes sooner. - -Boiling the spice in the vinegar will weaken the mushroom flavor. When -you open a jar of pickled mushrooms, immediately cork it again; tie on -the leather cover, and use it up as soon as possible. Therefore, pint -jars, with half a pint of mushrooms in each, are convenient. - - -BELL-PEPPERS PICKLED.--Take fine full-grown bell-peppers. Make a brine -in a stone jar of salt and water, strong enough to float an egg, and let -the peppers remain in it two days, putting a weight on the cover to keep -it down. Then take them out, wash them well in cold water, drain them, -and wipe them dry. Cut a slit in the side of each, and extract all the -seeds, as if left in, they will be entirely too hot. Through these slits -let all the water run out. Put them into a clean stone jar. Boil -sufficient of the best cider vinegar, interspersed with the muslin bags -of broken-up cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. Pour it, boiling hot, on the -peppers in the jar. Distribute the bags of spice among the peppers, and -cork the jar warm. You may stuff the peppers in the manner of mangoes, -with pickled red cabbage finely shred, minced onions and minced -cucumbers pickled, and seasoned with a little mustard seed, ginger, and -mace. Tie up the slit with packthread, crossing all round. Fill up the -jars with vinegar, putting sweet oil on the top. - -Your may green bell-peppers in the usual way, with vine leaves or -cabbage leaves. - -All pickles should be kept in a dry place. If you find them mouldy they -are not always spoiled. Take them out of the jar, wipe off all the mould -carefully, and throw away the vinegar. Wash the jar very clean, scald -it, and set it in the sun to purify still more. Make a new pickle with -fresh seasoning, and put them into that. - - -PICKLED CAULIFLOWERS.--Take large, ripe, full-blown cauliflowers. Remove -the leaves and stalk, and divide the blossom into pieces or clusters of -equal size. Throw them into a porcelain kettle of boiling water, (adding -a little salt,) let them simmer, and skim them well. When they come to a -boil, take them up with a perforated skimmer, and lay them on a sieve to -drain. Put them into stone jars, (three parts full.) Season with mace -and nutmeg infused in sufficient of the best cider vinegar, and simmer -it for a quarter of an hour. When it comes to a boil take it off the -fire, and pour it hot over the cauliflower in the jar, filling quite up -to the top, and adding sweet oil at the last. Cover it while warm, and -tie leather over the top. If you wish to have the cauliflowers yellow, -boil with the vinegar some turmeric powder tied up in thin muslin. This -is a very nice pickle. - -Broccoli is done in the same manner, but should be previously greened by -boiling it with vine leaves. - - -PICKLED BEETS WITH CABBAGE.--Take a large fine _red_ cabbage, wash it -well, and drain it. Quarter it, (having removed the stalk) and slice it -with a cabbage-cutter as for coldslaw. Boil some beets in the usual way -till quite tender, (they require a very long time) and while warm peel -and slice them in round pieces, or split them down, and cut them into -long bits. Lay them in a large stone jar, alternately with layers of -the shred cabbage, till the jar is more than half full. Have ready some -scalding vinegar that has been boiled with a seasoning of blades of mace -and sliced ginger root, and some nutmeg. Pour the vinegar, boiling hot, -upon the cabbage and beet, till you have the jars quite full. Finish -with a large table-spoonful of sweet oil. Cover the jar with leather, -and put it away warm. - - -PICKLED CUCUMBERS.--Take small young cucumbers, freshly gathered, and -free from blemishes. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg, and let -the cucumbers lie in it till they become yellow, stirring them down to -the bottom twice a day. Then pour off all the brine, wash the cucumbers -in cold water, and drain them. Lay a thick bed of fresh green vine -leaves in the bottom and sides of a porcelain kettle. Put in the -cucumbers, and pour on sufficient cold water to wet them all -plentifully. Then cover them, closely, with more vine leaves, and pour -on more water, packing the leaves well and pressing them down. Fill up -to the top with water and vine leaves, and cover the kettle closely to -keep in the steam. Hang it over a slow fire where there is no blaze, and -keep it _warm_ all night, but not _hot_. In the morning if the pickles -are not a fine deep green, remove the vine leaves and replace them with -a fresh supply. After this, they will be generally green enough; but if -not, continue till they are. Then drain the cucumbers on a sieve, and -transfer them to a very clean stone jar. To fifty cucumbers allow four -quarts of excellent vinegar, and a bit of alum about the size of a large -grain of corn, with half an ounce of mustard seed, half an ounce of -mace, a broken-up nutmeg, and half an ounce of root ginger, sliced. Tie -up the spice in three muslin bags, and boil them ten minutes in the -vinegar. Then take out and lay them among the cucumbers in the jar; one -to the bottom, one in the middle, and one at the top. Pour over them the -vinegar boiling hot; add a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and cork the jar -immediately, tying a leather over it. Keep wooden pickle spoons in the -pantry for taking out pickles, and always be careful to close the jar -immediately after. - -You need not keep the bags of spice in the jars more than two or three -weeks. - - -PICKLED ONIONS.--Take the small silver-skinned white onions. Peel off -the outer skin. Make a brine strong enough to float an egg, skim it -well, and when it begins to cool pour it upon the onions. Let them stand -in it (closely covered,) till quite cold. Then take them out, peel off -another skin, and wash them through a cullender in cold water. Next, -boil them in milk till tender all through, so that you can easily pierce -them with a needle. Then drain off the milk. Measure them, and to a -quart of onions allow a quart of the best cider vinegar. Boil in the -vinegar two muslin bags tied up with broken-up nutmeg and mace. When it -has boiled, pour it hot over the onions in the jar; having laid one bag -of spice at the bottom, and one in the middle. The onions should fill -two thirds of the jar, and the vinegar the remainder. Finish with a -table-spoonful of salad oil, and cork the jar immediately, and tie on -the leather cover. - -As onions pickled this way are generally much liked, it is well, when -doing them, to make several jars full. - -_Cucumber and Onion Pickle._--To a dozen fine cucumbers allow three -large onions. Pare the cucumbers and peel the onions, and cut both into -thick slices. Sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and let them rest till -next day. Then drain them well, and put them into a stone jar. Pour -boiling vinegar over them. Close the jar, and set it in a warm place. -Next day repeat the boiling vinegar, and cork the jar. Next day repeat -it again, with a bag of mace, nutmeg, and ginger, boiled in the vinegar. -Then cork the jar, and tie it up. When the pickle is finished, divide it -in small stone jars, with sweet oil on the top of each. - - -WALNUTS OR BUTTERNUTS PICKLED--Gather them in early summer, when they -are full-grown, but so tender that a large needle will easily pierce -them all through. Rub off the outer skin with a coarse cloth, and then -lay them in salt and water for a week, changing the brine every other -day. Allow for this brine a small quarter of a pound of salt to a large -quart of water. Make enough to cover all the nuts well. Place a large -lid over the pan, and keep them closely from the air. The last day take -them out of the brine, drain them, and prick every one quite through in -several places with a large needle. Drain them again, spread them out on -large flat dishes, and set them to blacken for two days in the hot sun. -For a hundred nuts, allow a gallon of excellent cider vinegar, half an -ounce of black pepper-corns, half an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of -allspice, an ounce of root ginger, and an ounce of mace. Boil the spice -in the vinegar for ten minutes, tied up in eight small muslin bags. Then -take them out, and having divided the nuts in four stone jars, -distribute among them, equally, the bags of spice, and pour on the -vinegar hot, an equal portion in each jar. While warm, secure them with -flat corks, and tie leather over them. Done this way, you may begin to -use them in a week. If you have not enough of vinegar to fill the jars -up to the top, add some cold, and strew among the nuts some blades of -mace. Finish with a large spoonful of salad oil at the top of each jar. - - -PICKLED PLUMS.--Take large fine plums; perfect, and quite ripe. To every -quart of plums allow half a pound of the best white sugar powdered, and -a large pint of the best cider vinegar. Melt the sugar in the vinegar, -and put it with the fruit into a porcelain kettle; all the plums having -been previously pricked to the stone with a large needle. Lay among them -some small muslin bags filled with broken nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon; -and if you choose, a few cloves. Give them one boil up, skimming them -well. Put them warm into stone jars, with the bags interspersed, and -cork them immediately. Green gages may be done in this manner, first -rendering them greener by boiling with vine leaves in the usual way. - -_Damsons Pickled._--Do these in the same manner as plums; but as they -are much more acid, allow brown sugar of the best kind. Plums or damsons -may be pickled plain, and with little trouble if full ripe, pricked with -a needle, and packed down in a stone jar with profuse layers of brown -sugar between the layers of fruit; the jars filled up with cold cider -vinegar, and putting sweet oil at the top. - - -_Pickled Cherries._--Take the largest and finest red cherries, fully -ripe. Morellas are the best. Either remove the stems entirely, or cut -them short, within two inches of the fruit. Have ready a large glass -jar. Fill it two thirds with fresh newly-gathered cherries, and then -fill up to the top with the best vinegar. Keep it well covered, and if -both fruit and vinegar are of excellent quality, no boiling is -necessary, and no spice, as the cherry flavor will be retained, and they -will not shrivel. - -_Button Tomatos._--The small round tomatos, either red or yellow, will -keep perfectly, if put whole into cold vinegar of the _really_ best -quality. You may add a bag of spice if you choose. - -_Nasturtion Seeds._--Keep a large glass jar of cold cider vinegar, and -put in the green seeds of nasturtions after the flowers are off, and the -seeds full-grown, but not hard. Remove the stalks. In this simple way -nasturtions will keep perfectly well, and are an excellent substitute -for capers with boiled mutton. They can be raised profusely, even in a -city garden, and the blossoms are very beautiful. With pepper-grass and -nasturtion flowers from your own garden, you can have a nice salad for a -summer evening tea-table. - -The three pickles above (cherries, button tomatos, and nasturtion -seeds,) are cheap, easy, and palatable. Try them. To flavor them with -spice, boil the vinegar with a bag of spice in it, and pour it on hot, -leaving the bag among them in the jar. - - - - -PREPARATIONS FOR THE SICK. - - -CHICKEN BROTH.--Skin and cut up a fine full-grown fowl. If but little is -wanted, take only the dark meat for the broth, and put it into a pot -with a small quart of water, and slowly boil it to rags. Strain the -liquid and return it to the pot, and thicken it with two spoonfuls of -arrow root, if no vegetables are permitted. Otherwise, you may boil with -the chicken some sliced onion and sliced turnip, with a grated parsnip -and a sliced potato, straining out the vegetables with the shreds of -fowl. You may reserve the white meat of the breast and wings to make -another dish, if the patient is permitted to take it. This is the white -meat cut off the bones, and stewed slowly in fresh oyster liquid, with a -bit of nice butter. If the patient is well enough, stir in a beaten egg -just before the stew is taken from the fire. - -_Oyster Soup for Invalids._--Remove the gristle from a dozen fine large -fresh oysters. Take half their liquor and mix it with an equal portion -of very good milk, seasoning it with three or four blades of mace, and a -stalk of celery scraped and cut into pieces. When it has boiled and been -skimmed well, strain it over the oysters, and let all simmer together -till the oysters are plumped, but do not let them come to a boil. Serve -it up in a bowl, with some milk biscuit to eat with it. - -_Clam Soup for Invalids._--Where salt is permitted, cut up and boil -slowly in their own liquor a dozen or more small sand clams. When well -boiled and skimmed, strain the liquor into a clean sauce-pan, and -thicken it with bread crumbs, and a small bit of nice fresh butter. The -clams are of no further use. Throw them away. - - -MUTTON BROTH FOR THE SICK.--Take two pounds from a nice neck of mutton, -and leave out some of the fat if there seems too much. Cut the meat from -the bones, and put it into a pot with a large quart of water, and no -seasoning. Boil it till the meat is all in rags. Do not skim it, as the -fat on the surface is very healing, if without salt or pepper. When -done, strain it into a bowl. Let the patient eat with it a slice of very -light wheat bread, having the crust cut off. It is excellent for the -dysentery. When the patient is convalescent, a little seasoning may be -allowed, and some well-boiled mashed turnips stirred into the bowl of -soup with a boiled onion sliced, and a thickening of arrow-root or -farina, stirred in about half an hour before the soup is taken up. Pour -it off clear from the shreds of meat at the bottom. - -_Veal Broth for Invalids._--Take a pound of knuckle of veal cut in -pieces, four calf's feet, split up. Boil them in a large quart of water, -till they are all reduced to rags. Then strain the liquid, and add to it -the soft part, only, of half a dozen fine oysters, and three or four -blades of mace. Set it again on the fire, and as soon as it simmers -well, take it off, and serve it up with very light milk biscuit, or -little bread rolls, to eat with it. Veal broth may be made with a piece -of knuckle of veal cut small, and boiled in the liquor of clams instead -of water. The clams themselves must be omitted, as they are always tough -and indigestible for an invalid, but their liquor adds a pleasant -relish to the insipidity of the veal. As the strength of the patient -improves, a grated carrot, a sliced onion, and some sliced turnip, may -be added to the veal from the beginning. - -_Raw Oysters for the Sick._--Take large fine fresh oysters, and -carefully cut out the hard part or gristle. They are considered very -good for convalescents, being, when raw, cooling, refreshing, and -nutritious. Drain them well from the liquor, making them as dry as you -can; and if permitted, accompany the oysters with black pepper and -vinegar, and a plate of bread and butter. - -_Birds._--Convalescents, not yet allowed to eat meat, can generally -relish birds nicely broiled, or stewed in their own gravy, with any -appropriate seasoning, and a little _fresh_ butter, if they are not very -fat. When dished, lay under each a piece of nice toast, dipped for a -minute in hot water. - -_Beefsteak for Invalids._--When this can be eaten with an appetite, -there is no greater promoter of returning health; but it must be of the -best sirloin steak, very tender, well broiled, and thoroughly done on -both sides, the gravy being carefully saved to serve up with it, a -little fresh butter being added after the meat comes off the gridiron. -If the taste of onion is desired, merely rub the plate with a peeled -onion. A very tender lamb-chop well broiled may be eaten by way of -change; but a tenderloin steak is better. Avoid pork, or veal cutlets. - -_Gravy Sippets._--For invalids who cannot yet eat meat, a light and -relishing preparation may be made with one or two slices of the best -wheat bread, divested of the crust, and spread on a hot plate, while -some nice well-skimmed gravy is poured over them; the gravy of roast -beef, veal, or mutton, that has had no butter about it. Gravy sippets -will form a variety to the usual broths, and other beginnings for the -resumption of animal food. - - -HERB TEAS.--Have one or more china or white-ware pots for the purpose of -making herb teas; and see that, after using, they are well washed, well -scalded and dried, and set open in the sun till wanted again. The herbs, -whether green or dried, should be of excellent quality, and picked very -clean from dust and stems. Having well-scalded the pot, take the -allotted quantity of the herb and put it in; then pour on the water, -which must be actually boiling at the time, and press the herbs down at -the bottom with a silver spoon. Then put on the lid closely, and -immediately stop up the spout with a small cork, or a wad of soft white -paper rolled tightly. This is to keep in the steam, and prevent the -strength of the herb from escaping. When sufficiently boiled, pour into -a pitcher with a lid, and through a strainer, as much of the tea as is -wanted. Strainers of block tin, with a handle and _very fine_ close -holes, are excellent for this and other purposes. - -_Herb Candies._--Hoarhound candy, and many others, may be made of a -strong decoction or tea of the herb, thickened with loaf sugar, and -boiled, skimmed, and stirred till very thick and stiff. Then pour it -smoothly into a square tin pan and set it in a cool place to congeal. -While still soft, mark it in even squares with a knife. When quite cold -and hard, loosen it from the pan with a knife, and take it out. It is -good for coughs. - -Peppermint candy is made in the same way, and is used for flatulence. - - -GRUEL.--Gruels, for patients who are unable to take any thing more -substantial, may be made of ground rice flour, arrow root, indian meal, -oatmeal grits, or farina. Mix to a paste, with water, two large -table-spoonfuls of any of the above articles; then stir the paste, -gradually, into a pint of water boiling on the fire, making it very -smooth and pressing out all the lumps. To prevent it boiling over, when -it has risen nearly to the top of the pan, remove it from the fire. -Sweeten it while hot, and, if permitted, add a little white wine with -nutmeg, and a small bit of fresh butter. - -_Toast and Water._--Cut a large slice or two of the best wheat bread; -pare off all the crust; and with a long-handled toasting fork toast it -evenly on both sides, not allowing it to blacken or burn in any part. -While hot from the fire, plunge the toast immediately into a quart -pitcher of clear cold water. Cover the pitcher instantly, and let it -infuse for half an hour or more, without leaving off the cover. When -done, it should be of a very pale brown color. - - -JELLY WATER.--Stir a table-spoonful of currant jelly into a half pint -tumbler of ice water, if the patient is feverish. The jelly may be of -other fruit, and if not sweet enough add some loaf sugar. The juice of -any ripe fruit, made sweet and mixed with cold water, is a good -substitute when sweetmeats are not at hand. Warm drinks are now seldom -used, but to promote perspiration and carry off a cold. Tamarinds are in -themselves very cooling and pleasant, and make an agreeable drink -infused in water, either warm or cold. - - -CARRAGEEN BLANCMANGE.--Carrageen is a species of sea moss which becomes -glutinous when boiled, and is considered remarkably nutritious and -strengthening. It can also be rendered very palatable. It is found -abundantly on some parts of our sea-coast, and may be obtained of the -best druggists, very nicely cleaned and pressed. To a small loose -handful of carrageen allow a small quart of rich unskimmed milk, half a -pound of powdered white sugar, a stick of the best cinnamon broken-up, -six or seven blades of mace, and half a nutmeg, powdered. Having washed -the carrageen through two or three cold waters, and shaken it out to -remove the drops that hang about it, put it to a pint and a half of the -cold milk. Boil it half an hour in a covered porcelain kettle. Then take -it out, for if it boils too long the carrageen will taste too strongly. -In another vessel boil the remaining half pint of milk with the spices, -till very highly flavored. Then strain it into the carrageen milk, and -stir in, gradually, the half pound of powdered loaf sugar. Set the -porcelain kettle again over the fire, and let it boil fast for five -minutes longer. Then strain it into moulds or bowls previously wet with -cold water; and when it has well congealed, turn it out, and serve it up -with sweetened cream, flavored with rose-water or peach-water. If for an -invalid, who is not allowed spices, flavor it with rose-water only, -stirred in after the blancmange has been taken from the fire. - - -FARINA BLANCMANGE.--From a quart of rich milk take out half a pint. Put -the half pint into a small sauce-pan, and add (if permitted) sufficient -mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon to flavor it well; the spices being tied up -in a very thin muslin bag. Then add the flavored milk to the remainder, -having stirred in two heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar. Set -it over the fire in a porcelain kettle, and when it has come to a boil -sprinkle in, gradually, four large heaping table-spoonfuls of farina, -stirring it well. Keep it boiling a quarter of an hour after all the -farina is in. When done, strain it into blancmange moulds, and set it on -ice to congeal. If for an invalid not allowed spice, boil it plain, and -when taken from the fire stir in a wine-glass of rose-water. If -rose-water is boiled with it from the beginning, the strength and flavor -will evaporate. - -_Farina Flummery._--Mix with a small pint of water a large pint of the -juice of ripe currants, or strawberries, or of stewed cranberries in -winter, made very sweet with white sugar. Boil the water and juice -together, and stir in gradually a quarter pound of farina, and then boil -it fifteen minutes longer. Afterwards transfer it to moulds, and set it -on ice till congealed. - -_Farina Gruel._--Have some water boiling on the fire, and when it boils -fast, sprinkle in sufficient farina to make it moderately thick. Then -sweeten it with white sugar. If permitted, stir in some white wine, and -nutmeg grated. - - -BEEF TEA.--Take a pound of fine fresh beefsteak cut from the round, -without any fat. Chop it into small bits, and season it with a level -salt-spoon of salt. Put it into a wide-mouthed bottle, cork it closely, -and set it into a kettle of cold water, which must reach to the neck of -the bottle. Let it boil steadily for three hours, by which time the -essence will be all extracted from the beef. Then remove the cork, and -strain the liquid into a bowl, and skim it. It can be made still more -conveniently in a _bain-marie_ or double kettle; an article useful for -many purposes, particular in cookery for an invalid. Mutton or veal tea -are made in the same manner. Also chicken tea, or essence of any sort of -poultry or game. - -_Chicken Panada._--Having skinned and cut up a fine full-grown chicken, -take the white meat from the breast and wings, and mince it small for -panada. The dark meat will do for chicken tea. Add to the panada a slice -of wheat bread crumbled and mixed in, and boil it in a _bain-marie_ with -the water outside; seasoning it (if permitted) with powdered mace or -nutmeg. - -_Sweet Panada._--Mix with a pint of water a glass of madeira or sherry; -a heaped table-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, half the yellow rind of -a lemon grated, and half the juice; and a half tea-spoonful of powdered -nutmeg or mace. Set the mixture over the fire, and as soon as it boils -add crumbled milk biscuit, or a rusk. Then give it another boil up. - - -BARLEY WATER.--Having washed clean two ounces of pearl barley, put it -into a sauce-pan with a quart of water, the grated rind and the juice of -a lemon, and two ounces of seeded raisins. Boil it slowly till the -liquid is reduced one half. Then strain it, and sweeten it, while warm, -with loaf sugar. - -_Gum Arabic Water._--Take an ounce of the best and cleanest gum arabic. -Put it into a pitcher, and pour on a pint of boiling water, and stir -while dissolving. When cool, squeeze in (if permitted) the juice of a -lemon, and add loaf sugar enough to make it pleasantly sweet. Gum arabic -water, alone, is sometimes given to a patient, whom it is expedient to -keep very low as a preventive to inflammation. - -_Tamarind Water._--This is a pleasant and cooling drink in fevers, -allowing half a pint of cold water to as many tamarinds as you can take -up with a table-spoon. Cover it, and let it stand for a few minutes. - -_Apple Water._--Take four fine large juicy apples, (pippins or -bellflowers,) core and pare them, and bake them side by side in a tin -pan. When well done and quite soft all through, put them into a pitcher -and fill up with warm water. Simmer them over the fire, and when quite -soft mash them; and, if necessary, add more water till they become a -thick liquid that can be drank. Sweeten well with loaf sugar, and if -permitted, add some lemon juice or rose-water. Drink it cool. - -_Egg Wine._--Break a nice fresh egg into a tumbler, and beat it till -smooth and thick. Add a heaped tea-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, and -stir in a glass of the best port wine. This, when permitted, is very -strengthening and cheering for an invalid, to take about the hour of -noon or earlier. When wine is not allowed, you may beat the egg into a -glass of new unskimmed milk. - - -WHEY.--Milk can be converted into a curd by the infusion of rennet -water, white wine, lemon juice, tamarind juice, or vinegar, stirred into -good milk, covered and set in a warm place till the curd has formed, and -has separated from the whey which remains beneath it. Take off the curd -carefully, breaking it as little as possible, and put it into a deep -dish. Pour the whey into a pitcher. It should look clear, and greenish -rather than white, and have none of the milk curd remaining about it. -Set the pitcher on ice. It is an excellent drink in fevers. When -approved, the curd may be eaten in a saucer with sugar. For rennet whey, -cut a piece of dried rennet about two inches square, and wipe all the -salt from the outside, but do not wash it. Soak the bit of rennet for -several hours (or all night) in a small tea-cup of lukewarm water. Then -pour the rennet water into the milk. For wine whey, boil a jill of -sherry in a pint of milk, without stirring it. - - -TAPIOCA.--Having washed in cold water three heaped table-spoonfuls of -tapioca; drain it, put it into a clean quart bowl, pour on water enough -to cover it well, and soak it four hours. Then pour on as much more -water, transfer the whole to a porcelain skillet, in the bottom of which -you have laid the yellow peel of a fresh lemon, pared so thin as to be -transparent, and boil the tapioca gently till it looks quite clear. Then -take out the lemon peel, and stir in sufficient loaf sugar to make it -very sweet. If approved, flavor it with some madeira or sherry, and some -grated nutmeg. Tapioca may be boiled in plain milk, with no seasoning -but the sugar to sweeten it. - -_Sago._--Pick and wash clean, in two cold waters, a half pint of sago. -Put it into a porcelain skillet, with the yellow rind of a lemon pared -transparent. Pour on it a quart of water, and let it all soak for two -hours. Then set it over the fire, and boil it, gently, till the lemon is -all to pieces and nearly dissolved, and the sago looks clear. Take out -the lemon peel, and stir in, if permitted, some sherry wine, sugar, and -grated nutmeg, and give it another boil. - -If the above seasoning is not allowed, boil the sago in milk only, or -water only, till the liquid becomes thick and like a jelly. - -_Sago Pudding for an invalid._--Boil three table-spoonfuls of _soaked_ -sago in a pint of milk till quite soft. Add gradually three ounces of -white sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat three eggs till thick and -smooth, and stir them by degrees into the sago and milk. Grate in some -nutmeg, and bake the pudding in a deep dish. Tapioca pudding is made in -the same manner. - - -SWEETBREADS FOR INVALIDS.--Cut open two fine fresh sweetbreads, and lay -them in warm water till all the blood is discharged. Then transfer them -to a pan of cold water to blanch or whiten. Stew them in the strained -liquid of fresh oysters, till quite tender. When done, take out the -sweetbreads, remove the gristle or pipe, and serve them up warm, having -laid in the bottom of the dish a slice of nice toast that has been -dipped for a minute in hot water. If permitted, the oysters may be -cooked with the sweetbread, first removing the hard part. - - -STEWED SMELTS.--Smelts are considered a delicate and nutritious fish for -invalids. They are in season in winter, and early in the spring. Choose -them as large as you can find them. Having drawn and cleaned them, cut -off their heads and tails. Put sufficient water to cover them in a small -stew-pan, adding a very little powdered white sugar, and a few small -sprigs of parsley, or sweet marjoram. When the water boils lay in the -fish, and simmer them five minutes. Then stir in a very little arrow -root, mixed with a few drops of cold water, and let it stew ten minutes -longer. Serve up the stew in a small deep dish with a cover, and eat -with it some very light bread-roll. It will be a pleasant change from -the usual broths and infusions prepared for the sick. - -_A Molasses Supper._--Make a thick slice of very nice toast, evenly -browned on both sides, but not the least burnt. Lay it in a pint bowl, -and pour over it a small half pint of the best _West India_ molasses, -having stirred into the molasses a heaped table-spoonful of ground -ginger. Mix the molasses with half a pint of hot water, and pour the -whole over the toast. Cover it with a plate for a few minutes, and eat -it while warm, previous to going to bed. This is a wholesome -strengthening palatable supper for an invalid, (as we know by -experience) and may be continued as long as the patient continues to -like it. It is always a good winter supper for children. The ginger must -on no account be omitted. If the molasses has turned a little sour, stir -in a salt-spoonful of soda. - -To prevent a jug of molasses from running over when kept in a warm -place, pour out a little into another vessel, and leave the molasses jug -uncorked for two days. Then cork it tightly. - - - - -MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. - - -TEA.--No metal (not even silver,) is good for tea-pots. All tea should -be made in china or queensware. Wedgewood (whether black or white) -imbibes much of the essence of the tea, and from constant use soon -becomes unpleasant. Britannia ware is exceedingly unwholesome for any -sort of cooking, as one fourth of the composition is copper. Block tin -for a common tea-pot is less objectionable, and much cheaper. All -tea-pots should, after using, be thoroughly emptied of the old leaves, -and washed very clean in warm water, and set open in the sun and air for -several hours. To make good tea, the tea itself, whether black or green, -must be of excellent quality. There is no economy in buying that which -is low-priced. Green tea, if fresh and good, and not adulterated will -look green in the cup, and have a fragrant odor. If it draws red, or -brown, or blackish, it is old or mixed with something wrong. Begin to -make your tea about a quarter of an hour before it is wanted. Scald the -tea-pot (twice over) with boiling water. Then put in the tea, allowing -three heaping table-spoonfuls to each person, and a pint of water, -actually boiling, when put in. Cover it closely with the lid, and set it -by the fire for ten or fifteen minutes to infuse. After the first cups -have gone round, put some fresh tea into the pot, and pour on it some -more boiling water, that the second cups may be as strong as the first, -having time to infuse. Weak tea for company is very mean. For those that -like it so, have a small pot of water on the server. If the water is not -boiling fast when poured on the tea, and is beginning to cool, the tea -will be flat and insipid, and the leaves will float on the surface of -the cups. There is then no remedy but to make some fresh. - - -COFFEE.--To drink coffee in perfection, a sufficient quantity for -breakfast should be roasted every morning, and ground hot, as it loses -much of its strength by keeping even for a few hours. The best coffee -roasters are iron cylinders, (standing on feet) with a door in one side, -and a handle that turns the cylinder round towards the fire or from it, -that the coffee may be equally done throughout. It must be roasted a -bright brown color, and on no account black or burnt. When about half -done, put in bits of fresh butter, allowing a table-spoonful to a pound -of coffee. Previous to roasting pick the coffee carefully, throwing away -the defective grains, and the stones or sand. Coffee should be ground -while warm in a mill kept solely for that purpose, and fastened up -against the kitchen wall. - -For boiled coffee allow four ounces of ground coffee (or a quarter of a -pound) to a quart of water. When the water boils, stir in the coffee. -Give it one hard boil up. Then set it farther from the fire, and simmer -it for ten minutes, adding the white of an egg, (including the egg -shell,) or a small strip of isinglass. Pour out a large cup of the -coffee, and then (holding it high above the coffee-pot,) pour it back -again. Repeat this till wanted, and then set the coffee-pot beside the -fire, (but not over it.) For company, allow six ounces of coffee to a -quart of water. Keep the lid always on, but if when boiling hard it -rises and seems inclined to run over, remove it instantly from the fire -and set it back. Cream is indispensable to first-rate coffee; if not to -be obtained sweet, substitute rich milk boiling hot. On no consideration -fill up the coffee-pot with water. A percolator (to be had at the best -tin stores) makes excellent coffee without boiling, if properly managed. - - -CHOCOLATE.--There is no plain chocolate better than Baker's prepared -cacao, and none has so much of the true chocolate flavor. The foreign -chocolate is generally mixed with sugar, spice, and milk. It cannot be -made thick and strong, and therefore to many tastes is not agreeable. To -make a pint (or two large cupfuls of chocolate,) scrape down two ounces -on a plate, and moisten the chocolate with a jill of water, rubbing it -on the plate till quite smooth. Then boil it five minutes, and add a -small pint of water. When it has been well stirred with a wooden spoon, -and has come again to a boil, serve it as hot as possible, accompanied -by a saucer of fine loaf sugar, and a small jug of rich hot cream and a -plate of nice dry toast, or some milk biscuits or sponge cake. Milled -chocolate is made with rich unskimmed milk instead of water. The -chocolate mill is a deep pot, belonging to which is a stick with a broad -wheel-shaped bottom, the other end coming up through a hole in the lid. -Take this between your hands, and turn it round fast till the chocolate -is finely frothed. Then transfer it to large cups. Chocolate, after it -becomes cold, is unfit to drink. But if made with milk, you can convert -what is left into a custard or pudding, with the addition of more sugar -and some beaten egg. The low-priced chocolate is both unpalatable and -unwholesome, being adulterated with animal fat or lard, and made with -_old_ cacao beans. - - -MILK TOAST.--To a pint of nice rich milk allow a quarter of a pound of -excellent _fresh_ butter. Boil the milk, and as soon as it boils take it -off, and stir in the butter cut into pieces. When the butter has melted, -give it another boil up Have ready a deep plate with four rather thick -slices of bread, nicely and evenly toasted on both sides. Pour the milk -hot over the toast, and keep it covered till it goes to the breakfast -table. Send a spoon with it. Bread should always be toasted by a -long-handled fork, such as are made for the purpose. They cost but -twenty-five cents, and no kitchen should be without one. - - -BUTTERED TOAST.--Cut even slices of bread all of the same thickness, and -pare off the whole of the crust. With a long-handled toasting fork toast -it evenly on both sides, taking care that no part of it is burnt or -blackened. Butter the slices hot, as you take them off the fork, (using -none but nice fresh butter) and lay them evenly on a heated plate. Cover -them till they go to table. - -All toast prepared for cookery, (to lay in the bottom of dishes,) should -have the crust pared off, and be dipped in hot water after toasting. - - -RASPBERRY VINEGAR.--Take a gallon of fine ripe raspberries. Put them -into a large deep earthen pan, and mash them well with a wooden beetle. -Then pour them with all their juice into a large and very clean linen -bag, and squeeze and press out their liquid into a vessel beneath. -Measure it, and to each pint of juice allow half a pint of the best and -clearest cider vinegar, and half a pound of fine loaf sugar, powdered. -First mix the juice and the vinegar, and give them a boil in a porcelain -kettle. Then stir in the sugar, gradually, adding to every two pounds -of sugar a beaten white of egg. Boil and skim till the scum ceases to -rise. When it is done, bottle it cold, cork it tightly, and seal the -corks. To use it, pour out half a tumbler of raspberry vinegar, and fill -up with ice water. It is a pleasant and cooling beverage in warm -weather, and for invalids who are feverish. Mixed with hot water, and -taken at bed-time, it is good for a cold. - -_Strawberry Vinegar_--Is made in the above manner, carefully hulling -them. The strawberries must be of the finest kind, and fully ripe. These -vinegars are made with much less trouble than the usual way; and are -quite as good, if not better. - - -MACARONI.--In buying macaroni, choose that of a large pipe; see that it -is clean and white and that it has not been touched by insects. Half a -pound makes one dish. If _soaked_ before boiling it is apt to dissolve -or go to pieces, but wash and drain it through cold water in a sieve. -Have over the fire a large pan of boiling water, in which has been -melted a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg. If boiled steadily, -it will be quite tender in less than an hour; but do not boil it so long -that the pipes break up and lose their shape. Having drained it well -through a clean sieve, transfer it to a deep dish, dividing it into four -layers, having first cut it into even lengths of two or three inches. -Between the layers place on it seasoning of grated cheese of the very -best quality, and bits of fresh butter, with some powdered mace. On the -top layer, add to the covering of cheese and butter sufficient -bread-crumbs to form a slight crust all over the surface. Brown it with -a salamander or a red hot shovel. Or (omitting the cheese) you may dress -it with rich gravy of roast meat. - -_For Sweet Macaroni._--Having boiled it in milk instead of water, drain -it, and mix with it powdered mace and nutmeg, with butter, sugar, and -rose or peach-water. Macaroni (like vermicelli) has in itself no taste, -but is only made palatable by the manner of dressing it. Good soup is -rather weakened than improved by the addition of macaroni. - - -COMMON OMELET.--Beat five eggs till very light and thick. Stir gradually -into the pan of eggs four table-spoonfuls of sifted flour. Thin the -batter with a large tea-cup of milk. Take a yeast powder; dissolve the -soda (from the blue paper) in a small quantity of tepid or lukewarm -water, and stir it into the batter. In another cup melt the tartaric -acid, (from the white paper;) stir that into the mixture, and stir the -whole very hard. Have ready in a frying-pan a large portion of lard, -boiling hot. Put in the omelet mixture, and fry it well. When one side -is done turn it, and fry the other. To flavor this omelet, mix gradually -into the batter either grated ham or smoked tongue; minced oysters; -minced onion; mixed with sweet marjoram, or else some mushrooms chopped -very fine. - -_For a Sweet Omelet_, add to the above batter powdered sugar, nutmeg, -mace, and powdered cinnamon. - -The custom is now to dish omelets without folding them over, it being -found that folding renders them heavy. Spread them out at full length on -a very hot dish. The batter for omelets should always be made in -sufficient quantity to allow them very thick. - -There is no use in attempting to flavor an omelet, or any thing else, -with marmalade or lemon, if you put in soda. The alkalies destroy the -taste of every sort of fruit. - - -A PLAIN POTATO PUDDING.--Having pared a pound of fine large potatos, put -them into a pot, cover them well with cold water, and boil them gently -till tender all through. When done, lay each potato (one at a time,) in -a clean warm napkin, and press and wring it till all the moisture is -squeezed out, and the potato becomes a round, dry lump. Mince as fine as -possible a quarter of a pound of fresh beef suet, (divested of skin, and -strings.) Crumble the potato, and mix it well with the suet, adding a -small salt-spoon of salt. Add sufficient milk to make a thick batter, -and beat it well. Dip a strong square cloth in hot water, shake it out, -and dredge it well with flour. Tie the pudding in, leaving room for it -to swell, and put it into a large pot of hot water and boil it steady -for an hour. This is a good and economical family pudding. - - -ELLEN CLARK'S PUDDING.--Slice, rather thick, some fresh bread. Pare off -all the crust. Butter the bread on both sides, and lay it in a deep -dish. Fill up with molasses very profusely, having first seasoned the -molasses with ginger, ground cinnamon, and powdered mace or nutmeg. It -will be much improved by adding the grated yellow rind and the juice of -a large lemon or orange. Bake it till brown all over the top, and till -the bread and butter has absorbed the molasses; taking care not to let -it burn. - - -ARROW-ROOT BISCUIT.--Mix in a pan half a pint of arrow-root, and half a -pint of sifted wheat flour. Cut up a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, -and rub it into the pan of flour, crumbling the bits of butter so small -as to be scarcely visible. Mix a quarter of a pound of powdered white -sugar, and wet it with a beaten egg. Add gradually a very little cream, -just enough to make it into a stiff dough. Flavor it with the grated -yellow rind and juice of a lemon, and half a nutmeg grated. Roll out the -dough into thin sheets, and cut it out into biscuits with the edge of a -tumbler. Prick every biscuit all over with a fork. Lay them in square -pans slightly floured, and bake them immediately. They will be improved -by adding (at the last of the mixture) a table-spoonful of the best -rose-water. If rose-water is put into cakes _early_ in the mixing, much -of its strength will evaporate before baking. It should always be -deferred to the last. These are very nice tea biscuits. - - -ONTARIO CAKE.--Take a pint and a half (or three large breakfast cups,) -of sifted flour, and the same quantity of powdered white sugar, and half -a pint of milk; a quarter of a pint or half a cup of the best fresh -butter, and the grated yellow rind and juice of a large lemon. Have -ready four well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh -yeast. - -Cut up the butter into the pan of flour. Add the milk and sugar -gradually, and then the beaten egg, and then the lemon; next the yeast. -Stir the whole very well, and set it to rise in a buttered pan. Place it -near the fire, and cover it with a clean flannel or a double cloth. When -it has risen and is quite light, and is cracked all over the surface, -transfer it to a square baking pan, put it immediately into the oven, -and bake it well. When cool, either ice it or sift white sugar over it, -and cut it into squares. Or, you may bake it in a round loaf, or in -small round cakes. - - -NEW-YEAR'S CAKE.--Stir together a pound of nice fresh butter, and a -pound of powdered white sugar, till they become a light thick cream. -Then stir in, gradually, three pounds of sifted flour. Add, by degrees, -a tea-spoonful of soda dissolved in a small tea-cup of milk, and then a -half salt-spoonful of tartaric acid, melted in a large table-spoonful of -warm water. Then mix in, gradually, three table-spoonfuls of fine -carraway seeds. Roll out the dough into sheets half an inch thick, and -cut it with a jagging iron into oval or oblong cakes, pricked with a -fork. Bake them immediately in shallow iron pans, slightly greased with -fresh butter. The bakers in New York ornament these cakes, with devices -or pictures raised by a wooden stamp. They are good plain cakes for -children. - - -GOOD YEAST.--Take two handfuls of hops. The best hops have a fresh light -green color, and a pleasant, lively smell. Pour on them two quarts of -boiling water, and let them boil five minutes after they have come to a -boil; not longer, for it makes them bitter. Then strain the liquid into -a pan, and add a table-spoonful of brown sugar and one of salt. When -lukewarm, stir in flour enough to make a thick batter. Add a jill and a -half of fresh baker's yeast. Set it in a warm place till it begins to -ferment; then keep it in the cellar well corked. - -This yeast will continue good two weeks. When you open the jug to take -out some yeast, put in always a table-spoonful of flour before you cork -it up again. - -A stone jug or pitcher is a good vessel for yeast. Wash it very clean in -hot water, always before you put in fresh yeast, and then rinse the jug -with water in which a spoonful of pearlash has been melted, letting the -pearlash water remain in it five or six minutes, and shaking it round -hard. Then rinse it with plain cold water. - -All vessels that have contained acids should have pearlash or soda in -the rinsing water, and then be finished with plain water. - -Never clean a bottle by rinsing it with shot. The lead is poisonous, and -has caused death. Some bits of raw potato chopped, and put in the water, -will clean the inside of bottles or jugs, and brighten decanters. - - -YEAST POWDERS.--Get two ounces of bicarbonate of soda, and one ounce of -tartaric acid. Divide the soda into equal portions, about a level -tea-spoonful in each, and the tartaric acid into level salt-spoonfuls. -By _level_ we mean that the article is not to be heaped in the least, -not rising above the edge of the spoon. Cut some papers of regular and -sufficient size, and fold them nicely. Put the soda into white papers, -and the tartaric acid into blue papers. Place an equal number of each in -a little square or oblong box, standing up the papers on their folded -edges. Dissolve them in two separate cups, in as much tepid water as -will cover the powder. They must be entirely melted before using. Stir -in the soda at the beginning, and the tartaric acid at the conclusion of -the batter or cake mixture. - -We do not approve of the introduction of these substances into cakes. -They give a sort of factitious lightness very different from that -honestly produced by a liberal allowance of egg and butter, genuine -yeast, and good beating and stirring--but they destroy the taste of the -seasoning, and are certain destruction to the taste of lemon, orange, -strawberry, pine-apple, and every kind of fruit flavoring. The justly -celebrated Mrs. Goodfellow never used any of them in her school, and the -articles made there by her pupils, (of whom the author was one) were -such as no money can purchase in the present times. Any confectioner who -would _faithfully_ revive them could make a fortune by doing so. - -The present introduction of hartshorn into bread and cakes is an -abomination, rendering the articles equally unpalatable and unwholesome. -Cannot the use of hartshorn in food be put down? Which of our _American_ -doctors will write a book on "culinary poisons." - - -VINEGAR.--Mix together in a clean keg three gallons of clear rain water, -(that has been caught in a clean tub without running over the roof of a -house,) one quart of _West India_ molasses, and one pint of baker's -yeast. Cover it, and set it in a warm place where it will be exposed to -the summer sun. Remember to shake the cask every day. In three months it -will be excellent vinegar. Then transfer it to stone jugs, and keep it -closely corked. Begin it in May. - -So much of the vinegar sold in stores is concocted of pernicious drugs, -that we recommend all families to make their own, or to buy it from a -cider farmer. Good cider, set in the sun, will after a while become good -vinegar. - -What is shamefully called the best white wine vinegar is frequently a -slow poison, as may be known by its action upon oysters, pickles, &c. It -is quite clear and well to look at. Its taste is very sharp and pungent, -as to overpower and render every thing that is with it painfully sour, -and it has a singular and disagreeable smell when boiling. Oysters -cooked with this vinegar go immediately into rags, and are soon entirely -eaten up, or dissolved into a thin whitish liquid, fit for nothing but -to throw away. - -Pickles the same. A punishment should be provided by law for persons who -manufacture and sell these deleterious compounds, of which we have now -so many, that it would indeed be well if we could make at home, as far -as possible, every thing we eat and drink. - - -PINK CHAMPAGNE--(_Domestic._)--Pick from the stems three quarts of fine -ripe red currants, and mix with them three quarts of ripe white -currants. Bruise them all. Put nine pounds of loaf sugar to melt in -three gallons of very clear soft water. Boil the water and sugar -together for half an hour, skimming carefully, and pour the liquid -boiling hot over the currants. When it is nearly cold, add a small -tea-cupful of excellent strong fresh yeast. Let it ferment for two days, -and then strain it into a small cask through a very clean hair sieve. -Put into the cask half an ounce of finely-chipped isinglass. Have rather -more liquor than will fill the cask at first, and keep it to fill up as -it works over. In about a fortnight bung it up. Let it remain in the -cask till April. Then transfer it to bottles, (putting into each a lump -of double-refined loaf sugar,) and letting them remain one day uncorked. -Then cork and wire them. They must stand upright in the cellar; but when -likely to be wanted, lay a few of them on their sides for a week. - - -SHERRY COBBLER.--Lay in the bottom of a large tumbler, two -table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and squeeze over it (through a -strainer) the juice of a large lemon that has been softened by rolling -under your hand. Then half fill the tumbler with ice, broken very small. -Add a large glass of very good sherry wine. Take another tumbler, and -pour the liquid back and forward from glass to glass, till completely -mixed without stirring. Sip it through a clean straw, or one of the -tubes made on purpose. - - -MINT JULEP.--Cut two or three round slices from a fine ripe pine-apple -that has been pared; and take out the core or hard part from the centre -of each slice. A still better way is to split down the pine-apple into -four pieces, and grate two of the quarters with a coarse grater, -standing it upright while doing so. Put it into a large tumbler, and -cover the fruit with two or three heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered -loaf sugar. Add a large glass of the best brandy, and pour on cold water -till the tumbler is two-thirds full. Then put in a thick layer of finely -broken ice, till it almost reaches the top. Finish by sticking in a full -bunch of fresh green mint in handsome sprigs, that rise far above one -side of the tumbler; and at the other side place a clean straw, or one -of the tubes used for the same purpose. - - -CAROLINA PUNCH.--Mix together a tumbler of peach brandy and a tumbler of -water, the juice of two lemons, the yellow rinds of four, pared to -transparent thinness, and four large juicy free-stone peaches cut in -half, and the kernels of their stones blanched and broken up. If you -cannot obtain peaches, quarter and grate down a ripe pine-apple. Let all -these ingredients infuse with a quart of Jamaica spirits in a bowl for -two days before the punch is wanted. Keep it carefully covered with a -cloth. Then pour on sufficient cold water to make the punch of the -desired strength; and strain the liquid into another bowl, and put in a -large lump of ice. Serve it out in small glasses. - - -NECTAR.--Take two pounds of _the best_ raisins, seeded and chopped; the -grated yellow rind and the juice of four fine lemons, and two pounds of -loaf sugar, powdered. Put the sugar into a large porcelain kettle, and -melt it in a gallon of water. Boil and skim it for half an hour, and -while it is boiling hard, put in by degrees the raisins and lemons. -Continue the boiling about ten minutes. Put the mixture into a stoneware -crock, and cover it closely. Let it stand three days, stirring it down -to the bottom twice every day. Then strain it through a linen bag, and -bottle it, sealing the corks. It will be fit for use in a fortnight. -Take it in wine-glasses, with a bit of ice in each. This is a nice -temperance drink. - - -CHOCOLATE CARAMEL.--Take half a pint of rich milk, and put it to boil in -a porcelain kettle; scrape down a square and a half of Baker's -chocolate, put it into a very clean tin cup, and set on the top of a -stove till it becomes soft. Let the milk boil up _twice_. Then add, -gradually, the chocolate, and stir both over the fire till thoroughly -mixed and free from lumps. Stir in a half pint of the best white sugar -powdered, and half a jill (or four large table-spoonfuls,) of molasses. -Let the whole boil fast and constantly (so as to bubble,) for at least -one hour or more, till it is nearly as stiff as good mush. When all is -done add a small tea-spoonful of essence of vanilla, and transfer the -mixture to shallow tin pans, slightly greased with very nice sweet oil. -Set it on ice, or in a very cool place, and while yet soft mark it -deeply in squares with a very sharp knife. When quite hard, cut the -squares apart. If it does not harden well it has not been boiled long -enough, or fast enough. - - -EGGS TO BOIL.--The water must be boiling fast when the eggs are put in. -First wipe them clean all over, with a wet cloth. It is true that the -shells are never eaten, but still, if brought to table dirty and -discolored, they look slovenly, disgusting, and vulgar, such as are -never seen in good houses. Put them into water that is boiling fast; and -if desired very soft, four minutes will be sufficient. Six or eight -minutes will barely set the whites and yolks, and ten or twelve minutes -(in water that is really boiling,) will render them hard enough for -salad. In the egg-boilers that are set on the table no egg will ever -boil hard, as the water cools too soon. A _stale_ egg never boils hard. - -Except in the spring, and late in the winter, there is often much -difficulty in obtaining good eggs, unless you have fowls of your own. If -an egg is really fresh, when held up against the light, the yolk looks -round and compact and the white clear and transparent; you may then -trust it. But if the yolk is thick, broken, and mixed among the white, -and the white is cloudy and muddled, it is certainly bad, and should be -thrown away. When tried in a pan of cold water the freshest will sink, -and the stale ones float on the surface. It requires strong brine to -bear up a good egg. Eggs may be preserved for keeping a few months, by -putting every one in fast boiling water for _one minute_. Then grease -them all over the outside with good melted fat, and wedge down close -together (layer above layer,) in a box of powdered charcoal. This -preserves them for a sea voyage of several weeks. The charcoal box must -be kept closely covered, and closed immediately whenever opened. Pack -the eggs with the small end downwards. - - -POACHED EGGS.--See that the eggs are quite fresh. Pour from a kettle of -boiling water enough to fill a broad shallow stew-pan. Break the eggs -into a saucer, (one at a time,) slip them carefully into the hot water, -and let them stand in it till the whites are set. Then put the pan over -a moderate fire; and, as soon as the water boils again, the eggs are -ready. The whites should be firm, and the yolks should appear in the -centre looking yellow through a thin transparent coating of the white. -Take them out carefully (one by one,) with an egg-slice. Have ready, for -each egg, a nice slice of toast of a light brown or yellow all over. -Trim off all the crust, and dip the toast for a minute in hot water. -Then butter it _slightly_ with fresh butter. Trim off neatly the ragged -and discolored white from the edge of each egg. Lay a poached egg in the -middle of every toast, and serve them up warm. - -Instead of toast, you may lay beneath every egg a thin slice of ham, -that has been soaked, and nicely broiled and trimmed. Or, large thin -slices from the breast of a cold roast turkey, or cold fillet of roast -pork or veal. These are nice breakfast dishes. - -_Scrambled Eggs._--Make a mixture as for an omelet, but instead of -frying put it into a sauce-pan, and when it has boiled five minutes take -it off, and chop and mix all the ingredients into confusion. Serve it up -hot in a deep dish. It is eaten at breakfast, and is by many preferred -to a fried omelet. You may season it with grated ham, tongue, or sweet -herbs. - - -EGG-NOGG.--Beat, till very light and thick, the yolks only of six eggs. -Stir the eggs, gradually, into a quart of rich unskimmed milk, and add -half a pound of powdered loaf sugar, a half pint of brandy, and a grated -nutmeg. Next beat three whites of the eggs by themselves, and stir them -quickly into the mixture. Divide it into two pitchers, and pour it back -and forward from one pitcher to the other till it has a fine froth. Then -serve it in a large china bowl, with a silver ladle in it, and -distribute it in glasses with handles. - -_To Beat Eggs._--For beating eggs have a broad shallow earthen pan. If -beaten in tin, the coldness of the metal retards their lightness; for -the same reason, hickory rods are better than tin wire. Beat with a -short quick stroke, holding the egg rods in your right hand close to -your side, and do not exert your elbow, or use your arm violently with a -hard sweeping stroke; of this there is no necessity. If beaten in a -proper manner, (moving your hand _only_ at the wrist) the eggs will be -light long before you are fatigued. But you must continue beating till -after the froth has subsided, and the pan of eggs presents a smooth -thick surface, like a nice boiled custard. White of egg is done if it -stands stiff alone, and will not fall from the beater when held upon it. - -Butter and sugar should always be stirred with a strong hickory spaddle, -which resembles a short mush stick, rather broad and flattened at one -end. - - -BRAN MUFFINS.--Take three quarts of bran, (unbolted wheat flour) and -sift it into a large pan. Warm three half pints of rich milk, mixing -with it half a common tumbler of _West India_ molasses. Cut up in the -warm milk and molasses two ounces or two large heaped table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter, and stir it about till well mixed all through. Then stir -all the liquid into the flour. Beat in a shallow pan three eggs till -very thick and light, and then stir them gradually into the pan of -flour, &c. Lastly, add two table-spoonfuls of strong fresh yeast. Cover -the mixture and set it to rise. When risen very light heat a griddle on -the oven of a stove, set muffin rings upon it, fill the rings nearly to -the top, and bake the muffins. Send them to table hot, pull them open -with your fingers, and butter them. They will be much liked if properly -made and baked. - - -COTTAGE CHEESE.--This is a good way of using up a pan of milk that is -found to be turning sour. Or you may turn it, on purpose, by stirring in -a spoonful of cider vinegar. Having covered it, set it in a warm place -till it becomes a curd. Then pour off the liquid, and tie up the curd in -a clean linen bag with a pointed end, and set a bowl under it to catch -the droppings; but do not squeeze it. After it has drained ten or twelve -hours, transfer the curd to a deep dish, enrich it with some cream, and -press and chop it with a large spoon till it is a soft mass; adding, as -you proceed, an ounce or more of nice fresh butter. Then set it on ice -till tea-time. - - -FRENCH HAM PIE.--Having soaked, boiled, and skinned a small ham of the -best quality, and taken out the bone, trim it into a handsome oval -shape. Of the trimmings make a rich gravy by stewing them in a sauce-pan -with a little water, and four pigs feet, (split up.) Have ready a -plentiful sufficiency of nice forcemeat made of cold roast chicken or -veal, minced suet, and grated bread-crumbs, butter, minced sweet -marjoram or tarragon, and some hard-boiled yolk of egg crumbled. Have -ready, prepared, a very nice puff paste; line with it the bottom and -sides of a large deep dish, and lay in it the oval ham, filling up at -the corners and all round with the forcemeat, and spreading a layer of -it on the top. Pour on gravy to moisten the whole, and put on the paste -intended for the lid. Notch the edges handsomely, and stick a flower or -tulip of paste in the cross slit at the top, and place a wreath of paste -leaves all round. Bake it light brown, and eat it warm or cold. It is a -fine dish for a dinner or supper party, or for a handsome luncheon or -breakfast. - -_A Tongue Pie_--Is made in a similar manner of a boiled smoked tongue, -peeled and trimmed, and filled in with forcemeat. For a large company -have _two_ tongue pies, as it will be much liked, if made as above. - - -FIG PUDDING.--Take a pint of very ripe figs, (peeled,) cut them up and -mash them smooth with the grated yellow rind of a large ripe lemon or -orange, and the juice of two. Mix together a large spoonful of fresh -butter, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and stir the whole very hard. -Bake it in a deep dish, and eat it fresh, but not warm. Grate sugar over -the surface. When _ripe_ figs can be obtained, this pudding is much -liked. - - -POKE PLANT.--Early in the spring, the young green stalks of the -pokeberry plant, (when they are still mild and tender, and have not yet -acquired a reddish tinge or a strong unpleasant taste,) are generally -much liked as a vegetable, and are by many persons considered equal to -asparagus. They are brought in bundles to Philadelphia market. Wash and -drain them, and put them on to boil in a pot of cold water. When _quite -tender_ all through they are done. Dish them in the manner of asparagus, -laid on a toast dipped for a minute in hot water, and then buttered. - -You may pour a very little drawn or melted butter over the poke. - - -RHUBARB TARTS.--Take large fresh stalks of the rapontica plant, such as -are full-grown and reddish. Peel off the thin skin, and cut them into -bits all of the same size, either one inch or two inches long. Wash them -in cold water through a cullender, (but do not drain them much,) and put -them into a stew-pan without any more water. Mix with them plenty of -good sugar, in the proportion of half a pound of sugar to a pint of -cut-up rhubarb stalks. Cover it, and stew it slowly till quite soft. -Then mash it into a smooth mass. Have some puff-paste shells baked -empty; and when cool, fill them to the top, and grate nutmeg and -powdered sugar thickly over them. The juice and grated yellow rind of a -lemon (added when the rhubarb is half stewed,) will be a pleasant -flavoring. This is sometimes called "spring-fruit" and "pie-plant." It -comes earlier, but is by no means so good as gooseberries. We do not -think it worth preserving, or making into a sweetmeat. - - -VOL-AU-VENT.--Have ready a large quantity of the best and lightest puff -paste. Roll it an inch thick, and then cut it neatly into shapes, either -square or circular. Bake every one separately on a flat tin pan, cutting -a round hole in the centre of each, and fitting in pieces of stale bread -to keep the holes open while baking. The cakes of paste should diminish -in size as they ascend to the top, but the holes should all be of -exactly the same dimensions. The lower cake, which goes at the bottom, -should be solid and not perforated at all. The small cake which finishes -the top of the pyramid must also be left solid, for a lid. When all the -cakes are baked and risen high, (as good puff-paste always does) take -them carefully off the baking plates; remove the bread that has kept the -centres open and in shape; brush over every cake, separately, with -beaten white of egg, and pile one upon another nicely and evenly so as -to form a pyramid. Have ready a very nice stew of oysters or game cut -small, and cooked with cream, &c. Fill the pyramid with this, and then -put on the top or lid, which may terminate in a flower of baked paste. - -_A Sweet Vol-au-Vent_--May be filled with small preserves, or with ripe -strawberries or raspberries, made very sweet. Vol-au-vents are for -dinner, or supper parties. The paste should be peculiarly light. The -name _Vol-au-vent_ signifies, in French, something that will fly away in -the wind; which, however, it never does. - - -A SOUFFLE PUDDING.--Take eight rusks, or soft sugar-biscuits, or plain -buns. Lay them in a large deep dish, and pour on a pint of milk, -sufficient to soak them thoroughly. Cover the dish, and let them stand -undisturbed for about an hour and a half before dinner. In the mean -time, boil half a pint of milk in a small sauce-pan with a handful of -bitter almonds or peach kernels broken small, or a small bunch of fresh -peach-leaves, with two large sticks of cinnamon, broken up. Boil this -milk slowly, (keeping it covered,) and when it tastes strongly of the -flavoring articles, strain it, and set it away to cool. When cold, mix -it into another pint of milk, and stir in a quarter of a pound of -powdered loaf sugar. Beat eight eggs very light, and add them gradually -to the milk, so as to make a rich custard. After dinner has commenced, -beat and stir the soaked rusk very hard till it becomes a smooth mass, -and then, by degrees, add to it the custard. Stir the whole till -thoroughly amalgamated. Set the dish into a brisk oven, and bake the -pudding rather more than ten minutes. The yeast, &c., in the rusk, will -cause it to puff up very light. When done, send it to table warm, with -white sugar sifted over it. You may serve up with it as sauce sweetened -thick cream flavored with rose-water, and grated nutmeg, or powdered -loaf sugar and fresh butter stirred together in equal portions, and -seasoned with lemon or nutmeg. - - -ICED PLUM PUDDING.--Take two dozen sweet and half a dozen bitter -almonds. Blanch them in scalding water, and then throw them into a bowl -of cold water. Pound them one at a time in a mortar, till they become a -smooth paste, free from the smallest lumps. As you proceed, add -frequently a few drops of rose-water or lemon juice to make them light, -and prevent their oiling. Seed and cut in half a quarter of a pound of -the best bloom raisins. Mix with them a quarter of a pound of Zante -currants, picked, washed, and dried; and add to the raisins and currants -three ounces of citron, chopped. Mix the citron with the raisins and -currants, and dredge them all with flour to prevent their sinking or -clodding. Take a half pint of very rich milk; split a vanilla bean, and -cut it into pieces two or three inches long, and boil it in the milk -till the flavor of the vanilla is well extracted; then strain it out, -and mix the vanilla milk with a pint of rich cream, and stir in, -gradually, a half pound of powdered loaf sugar, and a nutmeg grated. -Then add the pounded almonds, and a large wine-glass of either -marasquino, noyau, curacoa, or the very best brandy. Beat, in a shallow -pan, the yolks of eight eggs till very light, thick, and smooth, and -stir them gradually into the mixture. Simmer it over the fire, (stirring -it all the time,) but take it off just as it is about to come to a boil, -otherwise it will curdle. Then, while the mixture is hot, stir in the -raisins, currants, and citron. Set it to cool, and then add a large -tea-cupful of preserved strawberries or raspberries, half a dozen -preserved apricots or peaches; half a dozen preserved green limes; and -any other very nice and delicate sweetmeats. Then whip to a stiff froth -another pint of cream, and add it lightly to the mixture. Put the whole -into a large melon-mould that opens in the middle, and freeze it in the -usual way. It will take four hours to freeze it well. Do not turn it out -till just before it is wanted. Then send it to table on a glass dish. It -will be found delicious. Iced puddings are now considered indispensable -on fashionable supper tables or at dinner parties. There is no flour in -this pudding. The freezing will keep it together. - - -RENNETS.--Milk turned into a curd with wine is by no means so good as -that which is done with rennet-water alone. The curd and whey do not -separate so completely; the curd is less firm, and the whey less clear; -the latter being thick and white, instead of thin and greenish, as it -ought to be. Neither is it so light and wholesome as when turned with -rennet. - -Rennets of the best quality can be had at all seasons in the -Philadelphia market; particularly in the lower part, called the Jersey -market. They are sold at twelve, eighteen, or twenty-five cents, -according to their size, and will keep a year or two; but have most -strength when fresh. You may prepare excellent rennets yourself at a -very trifling expense, by previously bespeaking them of a veal butcher; -a rennet being the stomach of a calf. Its form is a bag. As soon as you -get the rennet, empty out all its contents, and wipe it very clean, -inside and out; then rince it with cold water, but do not wash it much, -as washing will weaken its power of turning milk into curd. When you -have made it quite clean, lay the rennet in a broad pan, strew it over -on both sides with plenty of fine salt; cover it, and let it rest five -days. When you take it out of the pan, do not wipe or wash it, for it -must be stretched and dried with the salt on. For this purpose hold it -open like a bag, and slip within it a long, thick, smooth rod, bent into -the form of a large loop wide at the top, and so narrow at the bottom as -to meet together. Stretch the rennet tightly and smoothly over this bent -rod, on which it will be double, and when you have brought the two ends -of the rod together at the bottom, and tied them fast, the form will -somewhat resemble that of a boy's kite. Hang it up in a dry place, and -cut out a bit as you want it. A piece about two inches square will turn -one quart of milk; a piece of four inches, two quarts. Having first -washed off all the salt in several cold waters, and wiped the bit of -rennet dry, pour on it sufficient _lukewarm_ water to cover it well. Let -it stand several hours; then pour the rennet-water into the milk you -intend for the curd, and set it in a warm place. When the curd is -entirely formed, set the vessel on ice. - -Rennet may be used with good effect before it has _quite_ dried. - - -AN EASY WAY OF MAKING BUTTER IN WINTER.--The following will be found an -excellent method of making butter in cold weather for family use. We -recommend its trial. Take, in the morning, the unskimmed milk of the -preceding evening, (after it has stood all night in a _tin_ pan,) and -set it over a furnace of hot coals, or in a stove; being careful not to -disturb the cream that has risen to the surface. Let it remain over the -fire till it simmers, and begins to bubble round the edges; but on no -account let it come to a boil. Then take the pan carefully off, (without -disturbing the cream) and carry it to a cool place, but not where it is -cold enough to freeze. In the evening take a spoon, and loosen the cream -round the sides of the pan. If very rich, it will be almost a solid -cake. Slip off the sheet of cream into another and larger pan, letting -as little milk go with it as possible. Cover it, and set it away. Repeat -the process for several days, till you have thus collected a sufficiency -of clotted cream to fill the pan. Then scald a wooden ladle, and beat -the cream hard with it during ten minutes. You will then have excellent -butter. Take it out of the pan, lay it on a flat dish, and with the -ladle squeeze and press it hard, till all the buttermilk is entirely -extracted and drained off. Then wash the butter in cold water, and work -a very little salt into it. Set it away in a cool place for three hours. -Then squeeze and press it again; also washing it a second time in cold -water. Make it up into pats, and keep it in a cool place. - -The unskimmed morning's milk, of course, may also be used for this -purpose, after it has stood twelve hours. The simmering over the fire -adds greatly to the quantity of cream, by throwing all the oily part of -the milk to the surface; but if allowed to boil, this oleaginous matter -will again descend, and mix with the rest, so as not to be separated. - -This is the usual method of making winter butter in the south of -England; and it is very customary in the British provinces of America. -Try it. - - -SWEET POTATO PONE.--Stir together till very light and white, three -quarters of a pound of fresh butter, and three quarters of a pound of -powdered white sugar, adding two table-spoonfuls of ginger. Grate a -pound and a half of sweet potato. Beat eight eggs very light, and stir -them gradually into the butter and sugar, in turn with the grated sweet -potato. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of saleratus or soda in a jill of sour -milk, and stir it in at the last, beating the whole very hard. Butter -the inside of a tin pan. Put in the mixture, and bake it four hours or -more. It should be eaten fresh, cut into slices. - - -RICE BREAD.--To a pint of well boiled rice add half a pint of wheat -flour, mixing them well together. Take six eggs, and beat the whites and -yolks separately. Having beaten the whites to a stiff froth, mix them -gradually with a pint of rich milk, and two large table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter, softened at the fire. Mix, by degrees, the yolks of the -eggs with the rice and flour. Then add the white-of-egg mixture, a -little at a time. Stir the whole very hard. Put it into a buttered tin -pan with straight or upright sides. Set it in a moderate oven, and bake -it an hour or more. Then turn it out of the pan, put it on a dish, and -send it warm to the breakfast table, and eat it with butter. - -This cake may be baked, by setting the pan that contains it into an iron -dutch-oven, placed over hot coals. Heat the lid of the oven on the -inside, by standing it up before the fire while the rice-bread is -preparing; and, after you put it on, keep the lid covered with hot -coals. - -Rice-bread may be made of ground rice flour, instead of whole rice. - - -RICE FLOUR BREAD.--Sift into a pan a pint and a half of rice flour, and -a pint and a half of fine wheat flour. Add two large table-spoonfuls of -fresh butter or lard, and mix in a pint and a half of milk. Beat four -eggs very light; then stir them gradually into the mixture. When the -whole has been well mixed, add, at the last, a small tea-spoonful of -soda or saleratus, dissolved in as much warm water as will cover it. Put -the whole into a buttered tin pan, set it immediately into a quick oven, -and bake it well. It is best when eaten fresh. Slice and butter it. - - -RICE FLOUR BATTER CAKES.--Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or -lard, in a quart of milk; but be careful not to let it begin to boil. -Divide the milk equally, by putting it into two pans. Beat three eggs -very light, and stir them into one half of the milk with the addition of -a large table-spoonful of wheat flour. Stir in as much ground rice flour -as will make a thick batter. Then put in a _small_ tea-cupful of strong -fresh yeast, and thin the batter with the remainder of the milk. Cover -it, and set it to rise. When it has risen high, and is covered with -bubbles, bake it on a griddle in the manner of buckwheat cakes. Send -them to table hot, and butter them. - -Similar cakes may be made with indian meal instead of rice flour. - - -GROUND-NUT MACAROONS.--Take a sufficiency of ground-nuts, or pea-nuts, -that have been roasted in an iron pot over the fire; remove the shells, -and weigh a pound of the nuts. Put them into a pan of cold water, and -wash off the skins. Have ready some beaten white of egg. Pound the -ground-nuts (two or three at a time,) in a marble mortar, adding -frequently a little cold water to prevent their oiling. They must be -pounded to a smooth light paste; and, as you proceed, remove the paste -to a saucer or a plate. Beat, to a stiff froth, the whites of four eggs, -and then beat into it gradually a pound of powdered loaf sugar, and a -large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and nutmeg mixed. Then stir in, by -degrees, the pounded ground-nuts, till the mixture becomes very thick. -Flour your hands, and roll between them portions of the mixture, forming -each portion into a little ball. Lay sheets of white paper on flat -baking tins, and place on them the macaroons at equal distances, -flattening them all a little, so as to press down the balls into cakes. -Then sift powdered sugar over each. Place them in a brisk oven, with -more heat at the top than in the bottom. Bake them brown. - -Almond macaroons may be made as above, mixing one quarter of a pound of -shelled bitter almonds, with three quarters of shelled sweet almonds. -For almond macaroons, instead of flouring your hands, you may dip them -in cold water; and when the macaroons are formed on the papers, go -slightly over every one with your fingers wet with cold water. - -Macaroons may be made, also, of grated cocoa-nut mixed with beaten white -of egg and powdered sugar. - - -COLUMBIAN PUDDING.--Tie up closely in a bit of very thin muslin a split -vanilla bean, cut into pieces, and a broken-up stick of cinnamon. Put -this bag, with its contents, into half a pint of rich milk, and boil it -a long time till very highly flavored. Then take out the bag; set the -milk near the fire to keep warm in the pan in which it was boiled, -covering it closely. Slice thin a pound of almond sponge cake, and lay -it in a deep dish. Pour over it a quart of rich cream, with which you -must mix the vanilla-flavored milk, and leave the cake to dissolve in -it. Blanch, in scalding water, two ounces of shelled bitter almonds or -peach kernels, and pound them (one at a time,) to a smooth paste in a -marble mortar, pouring on each a few drops of rose-water or peach-water -to prevent their oiling. When the almonds are done, set them away in a -cold place till wanted. Beat eight eggs till very light and thick; and -having stirred together hard the dissolved cake and the cream, add them -gradually to the mixture in turn with the almond, and half a pound of -powdered loaf sugar, a little at a time of each. Butter a deep dish, -and put in the mixture. Set the pudding into a brisk oven and bake it -well. Have ready a star nicely cut out of a large piece of candied -citron, a number of small stars, all of equal size, as many as there are -States in the Union, and a sufficiency of rays or long strips also cut -out of citron. The rays should be wide at the bottom and run to a point -at the top. As soon as the pudding comes out of the oven, while it is -smoking, arrange these decorations. Put the large star in the centre, -then the rays so that they will diverge from it, narrowing off towards -the edge of the pudding. Near the edge place the small stars in a -circle. - -Preserved citron-melon will be still better for this purpose than the -dry candied citron. - -This is a very fine pudding; suitable for a dinner party, or a Fourth of -July dinner. - - -A WASHINGTON PUDDING.--Pick, and wash clean half a pound of Zante -currants; drain them, and wipe them in a towel, and then spread them out -on a flat dish, and place them before the fire to dry thoroughly. -Prepare about a quarter of a pound or half a pint of finely-grated -bread-crumbs. Have ready a heaping tea-spoonful of powdered mace, -cinnamon, and nutmeg mixed. When the currants are dry, dredge them -thickly on all sides with flour, to prevent their sinking or clodding in -the pudding while baking. Cut up in a deep pan half a pound of the best -fresh butter, and add to it half a pound of fine white sugar, powdered. -Stir the butter and sugar together with a wooden spaddle, till they are -very light and creamy. Then add a table-spoonful of wine, and a -table-spoonful of brandy. Beat in a shallow pan, eight eggs till -perfectly light, and as thick as a good boiled custard. Afterwards, mix -with them, gradually, a pint of rich milk and the grated bread-crumbs, -stirred in alternately. Next, stir this mixture, by degrees, into the -pan of beaten butter and sugar, and add the currants a few at a time. -Finish with a table-spoonful of strong rose-water; or a wine-glass full, -if it is not very strong. Stir the whole very hard. Butter a large deep -white dish, or two of soup-plate size. Put in the batter. Set it -directly into a brisk oven, and bake it well. When cold, dredge the -surface with powdered sugar. Serve it up in the dish in which it was -baked. You may ornament the tops with bits of citron cut into leaves and -forming a wreath; or with circles of preserved strawberries. - -This will be found a very fine pudding. It must be baked in time to -become quite cold before dinner. - -For currants, you may substitute raisins of the best quality; seeded, -cut in half, and well dredged with flour. - -Instead of rose-water you may stir in the yellow rind (finely grated) of -one large lemon, or two small ones, and their juice also. - - -A COTTAGE PUDDING.--Take ripe currants, and having stripped them from -the stalks, measure as many as will make a heaping quart. Cover the -bottom of a deep dish with slices of bread, slightly buttered, and with -the crust cut off. Put a thick layer of currants on the bread, and then -a layer of sugar. Then other layers of bread, currants, and sugar, till -the dish is full; finishing at the top with very thin slices of bread. -Set it into the oven, and bake it half an hour. Serve it either warm or -cold; and eat it with sweetened cream. - -Instead of currants you may take cherries, (first stoning them all,) -raspberries, ripe blackberries, or barberries, plums, (first extracting -the stones,) stewed cranberries, or stewed gooseberries. If the fruit is -previously stewed, the pudding will require but ten minutes' baking. -When it is sent to table, have sugar at hand in case it should not be -sweet enough. - - -ICE-CREAM CAKES.--Stir together, till very light, a quarter of a pound -of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Beat six -eggs very light, and stir into them a half pint of rich milk. Add, -gradually, the eggs and milk to the butter and sugar, alternately with a -half pound of sifted flour. Add a glass of sweet wine and some grated -nutmeg. When all the ingredients are mixed, stir the batter very hard. -Then put it into small deep pans, or cups that have been well buttered, -filling them about two thirds with the batter. Set them immediately into -a brisk oven, and bake them brown. When done, remove them from the cups, -and place them to cool on an inverted sieve. When quite cold make a slit -or incision in the side of each cake. If very light, and properly baked, -they will be hollow in the middle. Fill up this cavity with ice cream, -carefully put in with a spoon, and then close the slit with your fingers -to prevent the cream running out. Spread them on a large dish. Either -send them to table immediately before the ice-cream melts or keep them -on ice till wanted. - - -WHIPPED CREAM MERINGUES.--Take the whites of eight eggs, and beat them -to a stiff froth that will stand alone. Then beat into them, gradually, -(a tea-spoonful at a time,) two pounds or more of finely-powdered loaf -sugar; continuing to add sugar till the mixture is very thick, and -finishing with lemon juice or extract of rose. Have ready some sheets of -white paper laid on a baking board, and with a spoon drop the mixture on -it in long oval heaps, about four inches in length. Smooth and shape -them with a broad-bladed knife, dipped occasionally in cold water. The -baking board used for this purpose should be an inch thick, and must -have a slip of iron beneath each end to elevate it from the floor of the -oven, so that it may not scorch, nor the bottoms of the meringues be -baked too hard. This baking-board must not be of pine wood, as a pine -board will communicate a disagreeable taste of turpentine. The oven must -be moderate. Bake the meringues of a light brown. When cool, take them -off the paper by slipping a knife nicely beneath the bottom of each. -Then push back or scoop out carefully a portion of the inside of each -meringue, taking care not to break them. Have ready some nice whipped -cream, made in the following proportion:--Take a quarter of a pound of -broken-up loaf sugar, and on some of the lumps rub off the yellow rind -of two large lemons. Powder the sugar, and then mix with it the juice of -the lemons, and grate in some nutmeg. Mix the sugar with a half pint of -sweet white wine. Put into a pan a pint of rich cream, and whip it with -rods or a wooden whisk, or mill it with a chocolate mill till it is a -stiff froth. Then mix in, gradually, the other ingredients; continuing -to whip it hard a while after they are all in. As you proceed, lay the -froth on an inverted sieve, with a dish underneath to catch the -droppings; which droppings must afterwards be whipped and added to the -rest. Fill the inside of each meringue with a portion of the whipped -cream. Then put two together, so as to form one long oval cake, joining -them nicely, so as to unite the flat parts that were next the paper, -leaving the inside filled with the whipped cream. Set them again in the -oven for a few minutes. They must be done with great care and nicety, so -as not to break. Each meringue should be about the usual length of a -middle finger. In dropping them on the paper, take care to shape the -oval ends handsomely and smoothly. They should look like very long -kisses. - - -CHOCOLATE PUFFS.--Beat very stiff the whites of three eggs, and then -beat in gradually half a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Scrape down very -fine three ounces of the best chocolate, (prepared cocoa is better -still,) and dredge it with flour to prevent its oiling; mixing the flour -well among it. Then add it gradually to the mixture of white of egg and -sugar, and stir the whole very hard. Cover the bottom of a square tin -pan with a sheet of fine white paper, cut to fit exactly. Place upon it -thin spots of powdered loaf sugar about the size of a half dollar. Pile -a portion of the mixture on each spot, smoothing it with the back of a -spoon or a broad knife, dipped in cold water. Sift white sugar over the -top of each. Set the pan into a brisk oven, and bake them a few minutes. -When cold, loosen them from the paper with a broad knife. - - -COCOA-NUT PUFFS.--Break up a large ripe cocoa-nut. Pare the pieces, and -lay them awhile in cold water. Then wipe them dry, and grate them as -finely as possible. Lay the grated cocoa-nut in well-formed heaps on a -large handsome dish. It will require no cooking. The heaps should be -about the circumference of a half dollar, and must not touch each other. -Flatten them down in the middle, so as to make a hollow in the centre of -each heap; and upon this pile some very nice sweetmeat. Make an -excellent whipped cream, well sweetened and flavored with lemon and -wine, and beat it to a stiff froth. Pile some of this cream high upon -each cake over the sweetmeats. If on a supper-table, you may arrange -them in circles round a glass stand. - - -FIG MARMALADE.--Take fine fresh figs that are perfectly ripe, such as -can only be obtained in countries where they are cultivated in -abundance. Weigh them, and to every two pounds of figs allow a pound and -a half of sugar, and the grated yellow rind of a large orange or lemon. -Cut up the figs, and put them into a preserving kettle with the sugar, -and orange or lemon rind, adding the juice. Boil them till the whole is -reduced to a thick smooth mass, frequently stirring it up from the -bottom. When done, put it warm into jars, and cover it closely. - - -CARRAWAY GINGERBREAD.--Cut up half a pound of fresh butter in a pint of -_West India_ molasses, and warm them together slightly till the butter -is quite soft. Then stir them well, and add gradually a half pound of -good brown sugar, a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and two heaped -table-spoonfuls of ground ginger, or three, if the ginger is not very -strong. Sift two pounds or two quarts of flour. Beat four eggs till very -thick and light, and stir them gradually into the mixture, in turn with -the flour, and five or six large table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds, a -little at a time. Dissolve a very small tea-spoonful of pearlash or soda -in as much lukewarm water as will cover it. Then stir it in at the last. -Stir all very hard. Transfer it to a buttered tin pan with straight -sides, and bake it in a loaf in a moderate oven. It will require a great -deal of baking. - - -SEA-VOYAGE GINGERBREAD.--Sift two pounds of flour into a pan, and cut up -in it a pound and a quarter of fresh butter; rub the butter well into -the flour, and then mix in a pint of _West India_ molasses and a pound -of the best brown sugar. Beat eight eggs till very light. Stir into the -beaten egg two glasses or a jill of brandy. Add also to the egg a -tea-cupful of ground ginger, and a table-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, -with a tea-spoonful of soda melted in a little warm water. Wet the -flour, &c., with this mixture till it becomes a soft dough. Sprinkle a -little flour on your pasteboard, and with a broad knife spread portions -of the mixture thickly and smoothly upon it. The thickness must be equal -all through; therefore spread it carefully and evenly, as the dough will -be too soft to roll out. Then with the edge of a tumbler dipped in -flour, cut it out into round cakes. Have ready square pans, slightly -buttered; lay the cakes in them sufficiently far apart to prevent their -running into each other when baked. Set the pans into a brisk oven, and -bake the cakes well, seeing that they do not burn. - -You may cut them out small with the lid of a cannister (or something -similar) the usual size of gingerbread nuts. - -These cakes will keep during a long voyage, and are frequently carried -to sea. Many persons find highly-spiced gingerbread a preventive to -sea-sickness. - - -EXCELLENT GROUND RICE PUDDING.--Take half a pint from a quart of rich -milk, and boil in it a large handful of bitter almonds or peach kernels, -blanched and broken up; also half a dozen blades of mace, keeping the -sauce-pan closely covered. When the milk is highly flavored and reduced -to one half the quantity, take it off and strain it. Stir, gradually, -into the remaining pint and a half of milk, five heaping table-spoonfuls -of ground rice; set it over the fire in a sauce-pan, and let it come to -a boil. Then take it off, and while it is warm, mix in gradually a -quarter of a pound of fresh butter and a quarter of a pound of white -sugar. Afterwards, beat eight eggs as light as possible, and stir them -gradually into the mixture. Add some grated nutmeg. Stir the whole very -hard; put it into a deep dish, and set it immediately into the oven. -Keep it baking steadily for an hour. It should then be done. Eat it -cool, having sifted sugar over it. - - -CHOCOLATE MACAROONS.--Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, by -scalding them with boiling water, till the skins peel off easily. Then -throw them into a bowl of cold water, and let them stand awhile. Take -them out and wipe them separately. Afterwards set them in a warm place -to dry thoroughly. Put them, one at a time, into a marble mortar, and -pound them to a smooth paste, moistening them, as you proceed, with a -few drops of rose-water to prevent their oiling. When you have pounded -one or two, take them out of the mortar with a tea-spoon, and put them -into a deep plate beside you, and continue removing the almonds to the -plate till they are all done. Scrape down, as fine as possible, half a -pound of the best chocolate, or of Baker's prepared cocoa, and mix it -thoroughly with the pounded almonds. Then set the plate in a cool place. -Put the whites of eight eggs into a shallow pan, and beat them to a -stiff froth that will stand alone. Have ready a pound and a half of -finely-powdered loaf sugar. Stir it hard into the beaten white-of-egg, a -spoonful at a time. Then stir in, gradually, the mixture of almond and -chocolate, and beat the whole very hard. Drop the mixture in equal -portions upon thin white paper, laid on square tin pans; smoothing them -with a spoon into round cakes about the size of a half dollar. Dredge -the top of each lightly with powdered sugar. Set them into a quick -oven, and bake them a light brown. When done, take them off the paper. - - -BREAD FRITTERS.--Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of Zante currants, and -having spread them out on a flat dish, dredge them well with flour. -Grate some bread into a pan, till you have a pint of crumbs. Pour over -the grated bread a pint of boiling milk, into which you have stirred, -(as soon as taken from the fire,) a piece of fresh butter the size of an -egg. Cover the pan and let it stand an hour. Then beat it hard, and add -nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar, stirred in -gradually, and two table-spoonfuls of the best brandy. Beat six eggs -till very light, and then stir them by degrees into the mixture. Lastly, -add the currants a few at a time, and beat the whole very hard. It -should be a thick batter. If you find it too thin, add a little flour. -Have ready, over the fire, a hot frying-pan with boiling lard. Put in -the batter in large spoonfuls, (so as not to touch,) and fry the -fritters a light brown. Drain them on a perforated skimmer, or an -inverted sieve placed in a deep pan, and send them to table hot. Eat -them with wine, and powdered sugar. - - -TO KEEP FRESH BUTTER FOR FRYING STEWING, &c.--Take several pounds of -the _very best_ fresh butter. Cut it up in a large tin sauce-pan, or in -any clean cooking vessel lined with tin. Set it over the fire, and boil -and skim it during half an hour. Then pour it off, carefully, through a -funnel into a stone jar, and cover it closely with a bladder or leather -tied down over the lid. The butter having thus been separated from the -salt and sediment, (which will be found remaining at the bottom of the -boiling vessel,) if kept closely covered and set in a cool place, will -continue good for a month, and be found excellent for frying and -stewing, and other culinary purposes. Prepare it thus in May or June, -and you may use it in winter, if living in a place where fresh butter is -scarce at that season. - - -EXCELLENT MUTTON SOUP.--Having been accidentally omitted in its proper -place, we here insert a receipt for very fine mutton soup. Try it. If -for a large family, take two necks of mutton of the best quality, and -let the butcher disjoint it. To each pound of meat allow a quart of -water. Put it into a soup-pot, with a slice of ham, which will render -the soup sufficiently salt. Boil it slowly, and skim it well, till the -scum ceases to appear. If you have no ham, season the meat, when you -first put it in, with a tea-spoonful of salt. In the mean time prepare -the vegetables, but do not put them in till the meat has boiled to rags, -and all the scum has risen to the surface and been carefully removed. It -is then time to strain out the shreds of meat and bone, return the soup -to the pot, and add the vegetables. First, have ready the deep yellow -_outsides_ of three or four carrots grated, and stir them into the soup -to enrich it, and give it a fine color. Next, add turnips, potatos, -parsnips, salsify, celery, (including its green leaves from the top) and -onions that have been already peeled and boiled by themselves to render -them less strong. All the vegetables should be cut nicely into small -pieces of equal size, (as for Soup a la Julienne.) You may add some -boiled beets, handsomely sliced. And (if approved) strew in at the last -a handful of fresh leaves of the marygold flower, which adds a flavor to -some persons very agreeable. Put all these vegetables gradually into the -soup, (those first that require the longest boiling,) and when they are -all _quite done_ the soup is finished. If well made, with a liberal -allowance of meat and vegetables, and well boiled, it will be much -liked--particularly if served as Julienne soup, for company. - - -NEW ENGLAND CREAM CHEESE.--Take a large pan of rich unskimmed milk that -has set in the dairy all night, and is from pasture-fed cows in the -summer. Have ready a small tea-cup of rennet-water, in which a piece of -rennet, from four to six inches square, has been steeping several hours. -Stir the rennet-water into the pan of milk, and set it in a warm place -till it forms a firm curd. Tie up the curd in a clean linen bag, and -hang it up in the dairy with a pan under it to receive the droppings, -till it drips no longer. Then transfer the curd to a small cheese mould. -Cover it all over with a clean linen cloth, folded over the sides, and -well secured. Put a heavy weight on the top, so as to press it hard. The -wooden vessel in which you mould cream cheeses, should be a bottomless, -broad hoop, about the circumference of a dinner plate. Set it (before -you fill it with the curd) on a very clean table or large flat dish. -Turn it every day for four days, keeping it covered thickly all over -with fresh green grass, frequently renewed. When done, keep it in a dry -cool place, first rubbing the outside with fresh butter. When _once -cut_, use the whole cheese on that day, as it may spoil before the next. -Send it to the tea-table cut across in triangular or pie pieces. - - -MOLASSES CANDY.--Take three quarts of the best _West India_ molasses--no -other will do. Put it into a thick block-tin kettle, (or a _bain-marie_) -and stir in a pound and a half of the best and cleanest brown sugar. -Boil slowly and skim it well, (stirring it always after skimming,) and -taking care that it does not burn. Prepare the grated rind and the juice -of three large lemons or oranges, and stir them in after the molasses -and sugar have boiled long enough to become very thick. Continue to boil -and stir till it will boil no longer, and the spoon will no longer move. -Try some in a saucer, and let it get cold. If it is brittle, it is -done. Then take it from the fire, and transfer it immediately to shallow -square tin pans, that have been well greased with nice fresh butter or -sweet oil. Spread it evenly, and set it to cool. - -While boiling, you may add three or four spoonfuls of shell-barks, -cracked clean from their shells, and divided into halves. Or the same -quantity of roasted pea-nuts or ground-nuts. With both nuts and lemon it -will be very good. - - - - -WORTH KNOWING. - - -THE BEST CEMENT FOR JARS.--Before preserving and pickling time, buy at a -druggist's, two ounces of the clearest and whitest gum tragacanth. -Obtain also two grains of corrosive sublimate, (indispensable to this -cement), and having picked the gum tragacanth clean, and free from dust -and dark or discolored particles, put it with the sublimate into a very -clean yellow or white-ware mug that holds a small quart and has a -close-fitting lid belonging to it. Then fill the vessel more than -two-thirds with very clean water, either warm or cold; and put on the -lid. Let it rest till next morning. Then stir it with an _unpainted_ -stick, that will reach quite down to the bottom. Repeat the stirring -frequently through the day, always replacing the lid. In a few days the -cement will have risen to the top of the mug, and have become a fine, -clear, smooth paste, _far superior to any other_; and, by means of the -corrosive sublimate, it will keep perfectly well to an indefinite -period, if always closely covered, and having no sort of metal dipped -into it. On no account attempt to keep this paste in tin, or even in -silver. Both paste and metal will turn black and become spotted. -Remember this. - -When going to put away your sweetmeats or pickles, this paste will come -into use, and be found invaluable. It is best to keep all these things -in small jars, as opening a large jar frequently, may injure its -contents by letting in the air. In a large family, or where many pickles -are eaten, those in most frequent use may be kept in stone-ware jars, -with a wooden spoon always at hand for taking them out when wanted. On -the surface of every jar of pickles, put one or two table-spoonfuls of -salad oil, and then cover the top of the jar closely with a circular -piece of bladder or thin leather. Next cut out a narrow band of the -same, and cement it on with gum tragacanth paste, (made as above), and -let it remain till you open the jar for use. - -For sweetmeats, have glass or white-ware jars. Lay on the surface of -each a circular paper, cut to fit and dipped in brandy. Next, put on an -outside cover of bladder or thick white paper secured with a band of the -same, coated with tragacanth paste. When this cement is used, the jars -will not be infested with ants or other insects, the corrosive sublimate -keeping them out. - -This paste should be at hand in every library or office, when wanted for -papers or books. It requires no boiling when made, and is always ready, -and never spoils. For a small quantity, take an ounce of the best gum -tragacanth and a grain of corrosive sublimate. Get a covered white or -yellow-ware mug that holds a pint; such a mug will cost but twelve -cents. Dissolve in less than a pint of water. - - -A BAIN-MARIE; OR, DOUBLE KETTLE.--These are most useful and satisfactory -utensils, as all who have tried them can certify. They are to be had of -various sizes at the best household furniture stores, and are made to -order by the chief tinsmiths. The French make great use of the -Bain-Marie; which, in some measure, accounts for the general superiority -of their cookery. - -This utensil, as made in America, is a double kettle of the strongest -and best block-tin. The bottom of the outside kettle is of strong copper -or iron, well tinned, and _kept so_. The food, however, is all contained -in the inner kettle, which is of tin entirely. After the food is in, -(having with it no water whatever), put on the lid tightly, and through -the tube on the outside, pour into the outer kettle the water that is to -cook it. If it boils away too fast, replenish it with more water poured -in at the tube. - -If it boils too slowly, quicken it by adding some salt put in at the -tube. Keep the kettle closely covered, except when removing the lid to -take off the scum; and do this quick and seldom. The superfluous steam -is all the time escaping through the top of the tube and through a very -small hole in the lid. Nothing cooked in this manner (with all the water -outside) can possibly burn or scorch. After every skimming, stir the -stew down to the bottom before you replace the lid. To cook in a -Bain-Marie, requires a strong, steady heat, well kept up; and you must -begin earlier than in the common way of stewing. This is an excellent -vessel for boiling custards, blancmanges, marmalades, and many other -nice things; as a good housewife will soon discover. Also, for making -beef tea and other preparations for invalids. It is well to keep a small -one purposely for a sick room. - -If from deficiency of sugar, or being kept too warm, or not closely -covered, any of your sweetmeats turn sour, do not hastily throw them -away, but carefully remove the surface, (even if coated with blue -mould), add an additional portion of sugar so as to make them very -sweet, and put them into a Bain-Marie. Fill the outer kettle with _hot_ -water, and boil it till you find the preserves restored to their proper -taste. Then put them up again in jars that have been well scalded, -rinsed, and sunned, and lay brandied paper on the surface of each. - -Mouldy pickles may be recovered in a similar manner, adding fresh spices -and vinegar before you put them up again. - -[Illustration: Bain-Marie; or, Double Kettle. (Pronounced _Bine -Maree_.)] - - - - -INDEX. - - - A. - - A-la-mode beef, 150. - - Almond and macaroon custards, 486. - - Almond macaroons, 536. - - Almond pudding, baked, 474. - - Almond pudding, boiled, 475. - - Almond sponge cake, 524. - - Almond soup, 58. - - Apees, 532. - - Apple dumplings, 457. - - Apples, baked whole, 461. - - Apples, bellflower or pippins, 562. - - Apple fritters or quince, 450. - - Apple jelly, 492. - - Apple pies, (fine) 479. - - Apple pork pie, 224. - - Apple sauce, 338. - - Apple sauce, baked, 339. - - Apple pudding, 458. - - Apple water, 591. - - Arrow-root biscuit, 603. - - Artichokes, fried, 363. - - Asparagus, new way, 371 - - Asparagus omelet, 366. - - Asparagus oysters, 372. - - Asparagus soup, 44. - - Autumn soup, 61. - - Aunt Lydia's corn cake, 425. - - - B. - - Bacon, to prepare, 246. - - Bacon, to boil, 247. - - Bacon and beans, 248. - - Bacon, broiled, 249. - - Bacon, stewed, 250. - - Baked fish, 79. - - Baked soup, 76. - - Baked tongue, 171. - - Barley water, 590. - - Bananas, fried, 358. - - Batter pudding, 447. - - Bean soup, 42. - - Beans, (green,) 379. - - Beef-a-la-mode, 151. - - Beef bouilli, 152. - - Beef, corned, 145. - - Beef, corned, fried, 148. - - Beef, (French,) 154. - - Beef, corned, stewed, 153. - - Beef, fresh, stewed, 155. - - Beef, dried and smoked, 148. - - Beefs heart, 161. - - Beef with mushrooms, 160. - - Beef with onions, 157. - - Beef with oysters, 158. - - Beef gumbo, 375. - - Beef patties, 161. - - Beef, spiced, 149. - - Beef with potatoes, 159. - - Beef, fresh, (stewed,) 155. - - Beef, roasted, 138. - - Beef, (smoked,) stewed, 154. - - Beefsteaks, 141. - - Beefsteaks, broiled, 142. - - Beefsteaks, fried, 143. - - Beefsteaks, stewed, 144. - - Beefsteak with oysters, 156. - - Beefsteak pie, 162. - - Beefsteak pot-pie, 164. - - Beefsteak pudding, 166. - - Beefsteaks for invalids, 584. - - Beef tea, 589. - - Beef with tomatos, 156. - - Beets, 387. - - Beets, baked, 388. - - Bell-peppers, pickled, 574. - - Bird dumplings, 305. - - Birds for larding, 305. - - Birds for invalids, 584. - - Birds in a grove, 304. - - Birds with mushrooms, 303. - - Biscuit sandwiches, 245. - - Bologna sausages, 232. - - Borders of paste, 472. - - Boned turkey, 271. - - Blackfish, and sea-bass, 83. - - Blancmange, 497. - - Blancmange, carrageen, 587. - - Blancmange, finest, 499. - - Bran muffins, 615. - - Brandy green gages, 557. - - Brandy peaches, 557. - - Bread, 433. - - Bran bread, 436. - - Bread biscuit, 436. - - Bread cakes, 437. - - Bread, rye, 436. - - Bread, home-made, 433. - - Bread pudding, 454. - - Bread-and-butter pudding, 454. - - Bread, (twist,) 435. - - Buckwheat cakes, 421. - - Brine for pickling meat, 235. - - Broccoli, 359. - - Broccoli and eggs, 361. - - Brown Betty, 455. - - Browning for soups, 312. - - Browned flour, 313. - - Buns, (Spanish,) 525. - - Butter, (clarified,) 310. - - Butter, (melted,) 309. - - Buttered toast, 599. - - Butternuts to pickle, 578. - - - C. - - Cabbage, boiled, 350. - - Cabbage boiled an excellent way, 351. - - Cabbage, forced, 353. - - Cabbage, fried, 352. - - Cabbage soup, 45. - - Cabbage, red, 45. - - Cale cannon, 352. - - Catchup, (mushroom,) 324. - - Catchup, (tomato,) 326. - - Catchup, (walnut,) 325. - - Calf's head, stewed, 205. - - Calf's feet jelly, 491. - - Camp catchup, 328. - - Canvass-back ducks, 281. - - Canvass-backs, broiled, 282. - - Canvass-backs, (stewed,) 282. - - Canvass-backs, (roasted,) 281. - - Carolina punch, 610. - - Carrots, 385. - - Carrot soup, 50. - - Carrots, stewed, 368. - - Carrageen blancmange, 587. - - Cashaw pudding, 478. - - Catfish, fried, 87. - - Cauliflower, boiled, 359. - - Cauliflower, fried, 360. - - Cauliflower macaroni, 360. - - Cauliflower omelet, 359. - - Cauliflowers, pickled, 575. - - Celery, fried, 362. - - Charlotte, (country,) 462. - - Charlotte, plain, 463. - - Charlotte russe, 507. - - Champagne, (pink,) 608. - - Cheese pudding, 481. - - Chestnut soup, 50. - - Chestnut pork, 220. - - Cherry marmalade, 550. - - Cherries, preserved, 563. - - Cherries, pickled, 580. - - Chicken salad, 384. - - Chicken curry, 297. - - Chickens, fricasseed, 289. - - Chickens, stewed whole, 290. - - Chicken broth for the sick, 581. - - Chicken gumbo, 292. - - Chicken-pie, 541. - - Chicken pot-pie, 297. - - Chicken soup, 55. - - Chicken, (tomato,) 294. - - Chicken and turkey patties, 295. - - Chicken rice pudding, 295. - - Chickens, fried, 287. - - Chickens, broiled, 287. - - Chitterlings, 201. - - Chitterlings, baked, 203. - - Chitterlings, fried, 202. - - Chocolate, 597. - - Chocolate caramel, 611. - - Chocolate custards, 484. - - Chocolate macaroons, 536. - - Chowder, fine, 88. - - Chowder, (Yankee,) 88. - - Cinnamon bread, 440. - - Cinnamon cake, 528. - - Citron melons, preserved, 552. - - Clam chowder, 89. - - Clam fritters, 112. - - Clam pie, 121. - - Clams, scolloped, 113. - - Clam soup, 74. - - Clam soup for invalids, 582. - - Cocoa-nut cake, 528. - - Cocoa-nut jumbles, 534. - - Cocoa-nut, (orange,) 504. - - Cocoa-nut pudding, baked, 476. - - Cocoa-nut pudding, boiled, 477. - - Cocoa-nut puffs, 534. - - Cocoa-nut soup, 57. - - Codfish, (stewed,) 103. - - Codfish, (boiled,) 84. - - Codfish, (fried,) 103. - - Codfish, salt, 86. - - Coffee, 596. - - Coloring for sauces, 310. - - Corn cake, (Aunt Lydia's,) 426. - - Corn soup, 38. - - Cottage cheese, 616. - - Country captain, 299. - - Country grapes, 567. - - Country plums, 566. - - Country potatos, 348. - - Crab-apples, preserved, 562. - - Crabs, 136. - - Crabs, (soft,) 122. - - Crab fritters, soft, 113. - - Cranberry sauce, 337. - - Cream cakes, 503. - - Creamed pine-apple, 506. - - Cream and peaches, 506. - - Creamed strawberries, 505. - - Cream tarts, 504. - - Cross buns, 439. - - Crullers, (common,) 444. - - Crullers, (soft,) 442. - - Croquettes, (rice,) 296. - - Cucumbers, (to prepare,) 369. - - Cucumbers, stewed, 370. - - Cucumbers, pickled, 576. - - Cucumber catchup, 327. - - Curry balls, 373. - - Curried eggs, 300. - - Curried chicken, 297. - - Curry powder, 332. - - Curry powder, (Madras,) 333. - - Custards, baked, 460. - - Custard, boiled, 461. - - - D. - - Damson pickles, 580. - - Damson sauce, 342. - - Dressing for slaw, 354. - - Dried apple sauce, 341. - - Dried peach sauce, 341. - - Dried and smoked beef, 148. - - Doughnuts, 443. - - Dumplings, (apple,) 457. - - Dumplings, (peach,) 458. - - Dumplings, (bird,) 305. - - Dumpling, (sausage,) 231. - - Ducks, boiled, 279. - - Ducks, fricasseed, 280. - - Ducks with peas, 280. - - Ducks, roasted, 278. - - Duck soup, 56. - - Ducks, (terrapin,) 283. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) broiled, 282. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) plain, 281. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) roasted, 281. - - Ducks, (canvas-back,) stewed, 282. - - - E. - - East indian pickle, 569. - - East India sauce for fish, 331. - - Egg balls, 373. - - Egg-plants, baked, 357. - - Eggs, to beat, 615. - - Eggs, to boil, 612. - - Egg-nogg, 614. - - Egg sauce, 316. - - Eggs, poached, 613. - - Eggs, scrambled, 614. - - Egg wine, 591. - - Ellen Clarke's pudding, 603. - - Epicurean sauce, 331. - - - F. - - Farina, 500. - - Farina blancmange, 588. - - Farina flummery, 589. - - Farina gruel, 589. - - Fast-day soup, 74. - - Farmer's rice, 451. - - Fennel sauce, 319. - - Fig pudding, 617. - - Filet gumbo, 293. - - Fish, to clean, 77. - - Fish, to bake, 79. - - Fish cakes, 82. - - Fish, to boil, 77. - - Fish, to fry, 79. - - Fish, spiced, 81. - - Fish soup, 71. - - Fish, to stew, 81. - - Floating island, 515. - - Florendines, 482. - - Fillet of pork, 225. - - Fillet of veal, 189. - - Fowls, boiled, 285. - - Fowls, pulled, 286. - - Fowls, roasted, 284. - - Fowl and oysters, 291. - - French chicken pie, 291. - - French ham pie, 616. - - French pot-au-feu, 64. - - French sour crout, 354. - - French stew, 158. - - French white soup, 56. - - Friday soup, 75. - - Fried oysters, 110. - - Fritters, 448. - - Fritters, (orange,) 449. - - Fritters, (peach,) 449. - - Fruit charlotte, 483. - - Fruit pies, (common,) 466. - - Fruit pot-pies, 460. - - Fruit in syrups, 552. - - - G. - - Game soup, 68. - - Giblet pie, 277. - - Gingerbread, (Lafayette,) 538. - - Gingernuts, 539. - - Golden cake, 530. - - Gooseberry fool, 463. - - Gooseberries preserved, 565. - - Gooseberry sauce, 339. - - Goose pie, 276. - - Goose, to roast, 274. - - Gravy sippets, 584. - - Gravy, to make, 323. - - Green beans, to boil, 379. - - Green gages, to preserve, 557. - - Green lemons or limes, 555. - - Green Mayonnaise, 330. - - Green peas, to boil, 378. - - Green pea soup, 41. - - Gruel, 586. - - Gumbo, (beef,) 375. - - Gumbo, (filet,) 293. - - Gumbo, (chicken,) 292. - - Gum arabic water, 590. - - - H. - - Halibut, fried, 97. - - Halibut, stewed, 104. - - Hams, to cure, 236. - - Ham, baked, 239. - - Ham, boiled, 238. - - Ham, brine for pickling, 235. - - Ham, broiled, 241. - - Ham, disguised, 243. - - Ham, fried, 242. - - Ham, fried, (nice,) 242. - - Ham cake, 243. - - Ham, (madeira,) 240. - - Ham toast, 173. - - Ham omelet, 244. - - Ham, potted, 246. - - Ham pie, (French,) 616. - - Ham, sliced, 243. - - Hashed cold meat, 193. - - Hare, coated, 264 - - Herb teas, 585. - - Herb candies, 585. - - Hog's head cheese, 234. - - Hominy, 392. - - Horse-radish, 317. - - - I. - - Ice cream, 510. - - Icing, (warm,) 519. - - Icing, 518. - - Ice cream cakes, 632. - - Ice water, (or sherbet,) 513. - - Iced plum pudding, 621. - - Indian corn, to boil, 391. - - Indian mush, 412. - - India pickle, 569. - - Indian pudding, (fine,) 428. - - Italian pork, 226. - - Irish stew, 180. - - - J. - - Jams or marmalade, 546. - - Jam, strawberry, 549. - - Jam, raspberry, 548. - - Jellies, 545. - - Jelly, apple, 492. - - Jelly, calf's feet, 491. - - Jelly cake, 535. - - Jelly, currant, 494. - - Jelly, (or marmalade,) pudding, 480. - - Jelly, orange, 493. - - Jelly, Siberian, 493. - - Jelly, (Wine,) 496. - - Jelly water, 587. - - Jumbles, 534. - - Jumbles, (cocoa-nut,) 534. - - Junket, 450. - - - K. - - Kebobbed mutton, 179. - - Kebobbed veal, 197. - - Kisses, 537. - - Knuckle of veal and bacon, 196. - - - L. - - Lady cake, 526. - - Lady fingers, 524. - - Lafayette gingerbread, 538. - - Lamb, 181. - - Lamb, larded, 186. - - Larded tongue, 172. - - Lamb chops, stewed, 185. - - Lamb cutlets, 184. - - Lamb pie, 187. - - Lamb, roast, 182. - - Lamb steaks, 183. - - Lard, to prepare, 250. - - Larded liver, 199. - - Lemon cakes, 522. - - Lemon catchup, 327. - - Lemon custards, 485. - - Lemon pudding, 473. - - Lemon bread pudding, 468. - - Lemons or limes, to preserve green, 555. - - Lemon syrups, 513. - - Lemon taffy, 506. - - Lemons or oranges, preserved, 554. - - Lettuce peas, 367. - - Lettuce peas, plain, 368. - - Lima beans, 380. - - Liver, fried, 198. - - Liver pie, 201. - - Liver pudding, 234. - - Liver rissoles, 200. - - Liver, stewed, 200. - - Lobsters, 132. - - Lobster pudding, 136. - - Lobster salad, (plain,) 133. - - Lobster sauce, 137. - - Lobster rissoles, 135. - - Lobster salad, (fine,) 134. - - Lobster soup, 71. - - - M. - - Macaroni, 600. - - Macaroni, (sweet,) 601. - - Macaroons, (almond,) 536. - - Macaroons, (ground-nut,) 628. - - Macaroons, (chocolate,) 536. - - Mackerel, broiled, 96. - - Mackerel, fried, 97. - - Madras curry powder, 333. - - Mangoes, (peach,) 571. - - Mangoes, (melon,) 572. - - Marmalade meringues, 533. - - Marmalade, (grape,) 550. - - Marmalade, (cherry,) 550. - - Marmalade, (orange,) 550. - - Marmalade, (peach,) 546. - - Marmalade, (plum,) 548. - - Marmalade, (pumpkin,) 547. - - Marmalade, (quince,) 546. - - Marmalade, (pine-apple,) 549. - - Marmalade, (tomato,) 547. - - Maryland biscuit, 432. - - Marrow pudding, 501. - - Mayonnaise, (green,) 330. - - Melongina or Egg-plant, 356. - - Meringue pudding, 479. - - Meringues, (whipped cream,) 633. - - Meat pies, 163. - - Milk biscuit, 437. - - Milk pottage, 451. - - Milk toast, 598. - - Mince pies, 488. - - Mint julep, 610. - - Mint sauce, 317. - - Mock turtle soup, 69. - - Molasses pie, 446. - - Molasses pot-pie, 447. - - Molasses pudding, 444. - - Molasses supper, 594. - - Muffins, (soft,) 429. - - Mush, 412. - - Mushrooms with beef, 160. - - Mushrooms, baked, 391. - - Mushroom catchup, 324. - - Mushroom omelet, 364. - - Mushroom sauce, 321. - - Mushrooms, pickled, 572. - - Mushrooms, stewed, 390. - - Mustard, (French,) 329. - - Mutton, 173. - - Mutton broth for invalids, 583. - - Mutton, (boiled leg of,) 175. - - Mutton, (boiled loin of,) 174. - - Mutton chops, (broiled,) 177. - - Mutton steaks, (fried,) 178. - - Mutton chops with potatos, 179. - - Mutton chops with tomatos, 178. - - Mutton, (boiled,) (sauce for,) 175. - - Mutton steaks, (stewed,) 176. - - Mutton, kebobbed, 179. - - - N. - - Nasturtions, pickled, 581. - - Nectar, 611. - - Noodle soup, 54. - - New Year's cake, 605. - - - O. - - Ochras, to boil, 375. - - Ochras, dried, 374. - - Omelet, (common,) 601. - - Omelet souffle, 501. - - Omelet of sweetbreads, 213. - - Onion custard, 358. - - Onions, 376. - - Onion eggs, 373. - - Onions, pickled, 577. - - Onion sauce, (fine,) 320. - - Onion sauce, (plain,) 321. - - Onions, (to roast,) 376. - - Onions, (to stew,) 376. - - Onion soup, 47. - - Ontario cake, 604. - - Orange cake, 522. - - Orange or lemon custards, 484. - - Orange cocoa-nut, 504. - - Orange fritters, 449. - - Orange jelly, 493. - - Orange marmalade, 550. - - Orange milk, 551. - - Orange pudding, baked, 476. - - Orange pudding, boiled, 476. - - Oranges (or lemons,) preserved, 554. - - Orange or lemon syrup, 513. - - Oysters, broiled, 119. - - Oysters, to choose, 108. - - Oysters, to feed, 108. - - Oysters, fried, 110. - - Oyster fritters, 111. - - Oysters, (French,) 110. - - Oyster loaves, 117. - - Oyster omelet, 118. - - Oyster patties, 117. - - Oysters, pickled, 115. - - Oysters, pickled for keeping, 116. - - Oyster pie, 120. - - Oysters, roasted, 114. - - Oysters, scolloped, 114. - - Oysters, raw, for the sick, 584. - - Oyster soup, 73. - - Oyster soup, for invalids, 582. - - Oysters, stewed, 109. - - - P. - - Panada, (chicken,) 589. - - Panada, (sweet,) 590. - - Pancakes, 450. - - Parsley, crimped, 319. - - Parsley sauce, 318. - - Parsnips, baked, 387. - - Parsnips, boiled, 386. - - Parsnips, fried, 386. - - Parsnip fritters, 387. - - Parsnip soup, 49. - - Partridges, (pear fashion,) 301. - - Partridges, roasted, 302. - - Partridge, plain, 302. - - Paste, (excellent plain,) 467. - - Paste, (potato,) 464. - - Paste puff, (the best,) 469. - - Paste borders, 472. - - Peas, to boil, 377. - - Peas, stewed, 377. - - Pea soup, (green,) 41. - - Pea soup, (split,) 43. - - Peas with lettuce, 367. - - Peas, plain lettuce, 368. - - Peaches and cream, 506. - - Peach dumplings, 458. - - Peach mangoes, 571. - - Peach marmalade, 546. - - Peaches, (brandied,) 557. - - Peaches, pickled, 570. - - Peaches, preserved, 556. - - Pears, baked, 462. - - Pepper-pot, 53. - - Peppers, (bell,) pickled, 574. - - Persimmon jam, 567. - - Pheasants, roasted, 302. - - Pickles, 568. - - Pickled beets with cabbage, 575. - - Pickled bell-peppers, 574. - - Pickled button tomatos, 581. - - Pickled butternuts, 578. - - Pickled cauliflowers, 575. - - Pickled cherries, 580. - - Pickled cucumbers, 576. - - Pickled cucumbers with onions, 578. - - Pickled damsons, 580. - - Pickles, East India, 569. - - Pickled melon mangoes, 572. - - Pickled mushrooms, 572. - - Pickled nasturtions, 581. - - Pickled onions, 577. - - Pickled peaches, 570. - - Pickled peach mangoes, 571. - - Pickled plums, 579. - - Pickled shrimps, 314. - - Pickled walnuts, 578. - - Pie, (crust,) very plain, 464. - - Pigeon pie, 540. - - Pigeons, roasted, 308. - - Pig, to dress, 220. - - Pig's feet, fried, 227. - - Pine-apple marmalade, 549. - - Pine-apples, preserved, 553. - - Pine-apple tart, 478. - - Pink champagne, 608. - - Pink sauce, 334. - - Planked shad, 106. - - Plovers, roasted, 307. - - Plum cake, 516. - - Plums, preserved, 557. - - Plums, pickled, 579. - - Plum pudding, (plain,) 468. - - Plum pudding, (fine,) 486. - - Poke plant, 618. - - Pot-au-feu, (French,) 64. - - Pot-pies, 165. - - Pot-pie, (terrapin,) 125. - - Pumpkin, stewed, 389. - - Pork, 216. - - Pork and apples, 222. - - Pork and beans, 228. - - Pork with corn and beans, 229. - - Pork with pea pudding, 230. - - Pork, (Italian,) 226. - - Pork, fillet, 225. - - Pork olives, 227. - - Pork pie, (apple,) 224. - - Pork, (apple pot-pie,) 223. - - Pork, to roast, 218. - - Pork spare-ribs, roasted, 220. - - Pork steaks, stewed, 222. - - Pork steaks, fried, 223. - - Pork, (sweet potato,) 219. - - Portable soup, 51. - - Potatos, boiled, 345. - - Potatos, roasted, 346. - - Potatos, baked, 347. - - Potato cakes, 348. - - Potatos, (country,) 348. - - Potatos, fried, 348. - - Potatos, (new,) 347. - - Potatos, mashed, 347. - - Potato paste, 464. - - Potato pudding, (plain,) 602. - - Potatos, stewed, 349. - - Potato beef, 159. - - Potato mutton chops, 179. - - Potato soup, 50. - - Pot-pie, (beefsteak,) 164. - - Pot-pie, (chicken,) 297. - - Poultry and game, 265. - - Pound cake, 520. - - Pudding, (almond,) baked, 474. - - Pudding, (almond,) boiled, 475. - - Pudding, (apple,) 458. - - Pudding, (batter,) 447. - - Pudding, (bread,) 454. - - Pudding, bread and butter, 454. - - Pudding, Brown Betty, 455. - - Pudding, (cashaw,) 478. - - Pudding, (cheese,) 481. - - Pudding, (cocoa-nut,) 476. - - Pudding, (cocoa-nut,) boiled, 477. - - Pudding, (cottage,) 632. - - Pudding, iced plum, 621. - - Pudding, (Columbian,) 629. - - Pudding, (Ellen Clarke's,) 603. - - Pudding, lemon bread, 468. - - Pudding, marrow, 501. - - Pudding, plum, 486. - - Pudding, plum, (plain,) 468. - - Pudding, molasses, 444. - - Pudding, rice, (baked,) 452. - - Pudding, rice, (boiled,) 453. - - Pudding, orange, 476. - - Pudding, lemon or orange, (boiled,) 476. - - Pudding, sweet potato, 477. - - Pudding, white potato, 478. - - Pudding, meringue, 479. - - Pudding, marmalade or jelly, 480. - - Pudding, pumpkin, (fine,) 478. - - Pudding, pumpkin, (Yankee,) 390. - - Pudding, rolled, 459. - - Pumpkin, stewed, 389. - - - Q. - - Quails, roasted, 302. - - Queen cake, 522. - - Quince marmalade, 546. - - Quince pies, 478. - - Quinces, preserved, 560. - - - R. - - Rabbits, 259. - - Rabbits, coated, 264. - - Rabbits, fricasseed, 263. - - Rabbits with onions, 261. - - Rabbit pot-pie, 262. - - Rabbits, pulled, 263. - - Rabbits, roasted, 260. - - Raspberry jam, 548. - - Raspberries, preserved, 566. - - Raspberry vinegar, 599. - - Rhubarb tarts, 618. - - Rice cups, 453. - - Rice pie, 298. - - Rice pudding, baked, 452. - - Rice pudding, boiled, 453. - - Rennets, 622. - - Ripe peach sauce, 340. - - Rissole patties, 198. - - Rockfish, 82. - - Reed birds, 308. - - Rolls, 435. - - Rolled pudding, 459. - - Roman punch, 514. - - Rusk, 438. - - Rusks, (dry,) 439. - - - S. - - Sage and onion sauce, 319. - - Sago, 592. - - Sago pudding, 593. - - Salad, (chicken,) 384. - - Sally Lunn, 430. - - Salsify fritters, 355. - - Salsify oysters, 356. - - Salmi of partridges, 302. - - Salmon, 90. - - Salmon, baked, 93. - - Salmon, boiled, 91. - - Salmon, broiled, 94. - - Salmon cutlets, 94. - - Salmon, pickled, 95. - - Salmon, roasted, 93. - - Salmon trout, 101. - - Sandwiches, 173. - - Sausages, (Bologna,) 232. - - Sausage meat, 231. - - Sausage dumplings, 231. - - Sauce, apple, 338. - - Sauce, apple, baked, 339. - - Sauce, apple, dried, 341. - - Sauce, dried peach, 341. - - Sauce, (broccoli,) 318. - - Sauce, (cauliflower,) 318. - - Sauce, chestnut, 343. - - Sauce, (celery,) 316. - - Sauce, (clam,) 315. - - Sauce, (cranberry,) 337. - - Sauce, (damson,) 342. - - Sauce, (egg,) 316. - - Sauce, (fennel,) 319. - - Sauce, (gooseberry,) 339. - - Sauce, (lobster,) 137, 313. - - Sauce, mint, 317. - - Sauce, mushroom, 321. - - Sauce, (nasturtion,) 321. - - Sauce, (onion,) plain, 321. - - Sauce, (onion,) fine, 320. - - Sauce, (onion and sage,) 319. - - Sauce, (oyster,) 315. - - Sauce, (parsley,) 318. - - Sauce, pea-nut, 343. - - Sauce, (peach,) ripe, 340. - - Sauce, (prune,) 342. - - Sauce, (pink,) 334. - - Sauce, (pudding,) fine, 335. - - Sauce, (pudding,) plain, 336. - - Sauce, Robert, 330. - - Sauce, (shrimp,) 314. - - Sauce, (vanilla,) 336. - - Sauce, (wine,) 334. - - Sausage dumplings, 231. - - Sausage and veal pie, 232. - - Scolloped tomatos, 365. - - Scotch cake, 535. - - Seabass with tomatos, 101. - - Sea-coast pie, 127. - - Shad, to keep without corning, 105. - - Shad, planked, 106. - - Shells, 471. - - Sherry cobbler, 609. - - Short cake, 427. - - Shrimps, 137. - - Siberian jelly, 493. - - Silver cake, 531. - - Smelts, fried, 86. - - Smelts for invalids, 594. - - Soft crabs, 122. - - Soft crullers, 442. - - Soft muffins, 429. - - Souffle, (omelet,) 501. - - Soups, 33. - - Soup, almond, 58. - - Soup, asparagus, 44. - - Soup, autumn, 61. - - Soup, baked, 76. - - Soup, bean, 42. - - Soup, (cabbage,) 45. - - Soup, red cabbage, 45. - - Soup, fine cabbage, 46. - - Soup, cauliflower, 47. - - Soup, clam, 74. - - Soup, cocoa-nut, 57. - - Soup, crab, 72. - - Soup, corn, 38. - - Soup, carrot, 50. - - Soup, chestnut, 50. - - Soup, chicken, 55. - - Soup, duck, 56. - - Soup, fast-day, 74. - - Soup, fish, 71. - - Soup, French white, 56. - - Soup, Friday, 75. - - Soup, game, 68. - - Soup, green peas, 41. - - Soup, lobster, 71. - - Soup, mock turtle, 69. - - Soup, mushroom, 37. - - Soup, noodle, 54. - - Soup, onion, 47. - - Soup, oyster, 73. - - Soup, parsnip, 49. - - Soup, pea, green, 41. - - Soup, peas, split, 43. - - Soup, pepper-pot, 53. - - Soup, portable, 51. - - Soup, pot-au-feu, 64. - - Soup, potato, 50. - - Soup, spring, 59. - - Soup, summer, 60. - - Soup, squatters, 68. - - Soup, tomato, 39. - - Soup, family tomato, 40. - - Soup, fine tomato, 40. - - Soup, turnip, 48. - - Soup, vegetable, 63. - - Soup, venison, 39. - - Soup, winter, 62. - - Soup, wild duck, 66. - - Southern stew, 196. - - Sour crout, (French,) 354. - - Souffle pudding, 620. - - Spanish buns, 525. - - Spinach, 369. - - Sponge cake, 523. - - Squashes or cymlings, 388. - - Stewed smoked beef, 149. - - Stewed calf's head, 205. - - Stewed peas, 366. - - Stewed pumpkin, 389. - - Store sauces, 333. - - Strawberry jam, 549. - - Strawberries, preserved, 563. - - Strawberries in wine, 564. - - Strawberry wine, 564. - - Sweetbreads, baked, 215. - - Sweetbread croquettes, 210. - - Sweetbreads, fricasseed, 210. - - Sweetbreads with cauliflower, 212. - - Sweetbread omelet, 213. - - Sweetbreads with oysters, 214. - - Sweetbreads, to prepare, 209. - - Sweetbreads for invalids, 593. - - Sweetbread pies, 214. - - Sweetbreads, stewed, 214. - - Sweetbreads with tomatos, 211. - - Sweetmeats, 543. - - Sweet potatos, boiled, 380. - - Sweet potatos, baked, 381. - - Sweet potatos, mashed, 381. - - Sweet potatos, stewed, 381. - - Sweet potato pudding, 477. - - Sweet potato cake, 529. - - Sweet potatos, sweetened, 455. - - Sunderlands, 503. - - Sydney Smith's salad dressing, 382. - - - T. - - Taffy, (lemon,) 506. - - Tamarind-water, 591. - - Tapioca, 592. - - Tarragon sauce, 323. - - Tarragon vinegar, 328. - - Tea, 595. - - Thatched house pie, 304. - - Terrapins, 122. - - Terrapins, dressed a new way, 124. - - Terrapin pot-pie, 125. - - Toast and water, 586. - - Toast, buttered, 599. - - Toast, (milk,) 598. - - Tomato catchup, 326. - - Tomato paste, 374. - - Tomatos, pickled, 581. - - Tomatos, preserved green, 559. - - Tomatos, preserved, 558. - - Tomatos with sea-bass, 101. - - Tomato soup, 39. - - Tomato soup, (fine,) 40. - - Tomato soup, (family,) 40. - - Tomato sweetbreads, 211. - - Tongues, 170. - - Tongue, baked, 171. - - Tongue, larded, 172. - - Tongue toast, 172. - - Trifle, 496. - - Tripe, to boil, 167. - - Tripe, to fry, 169. - - Tripe curry, 168. - - Trout, 84. - - Trout, baked, 85. - - Trout, stewed, 85. - - Trout with cream, 102. - - Turbot, baked, 100. - - Turbot, boiled, 99. - - Turkey, boiled, 267. - - Turkey, roasted, 270. - - Turkey with oysters, 269. - - Turkey, boned, 271. - - Turnips, boiled, 382. - - Turnip soup, 48. - - Turtle, to dress, 128. - - Turtle pastry, 131. - - - V. - - Vanilla custards, 484. - - Vanilla sauce, 336. - - Vanilla syrup, 513. - - Veal, 188. - - Veal a-la-mode, 191. - - Veal and bacon, 196. - - Veal broth for the sick, 583. - - Veal cutlets, 195. - - Veal cutlets, in papers, 194. - - Veal fillet, 189. - - Veal fritters, 197. - - Veal kebobbed, 197. - - Veal, (knuckle,) with bacon, 196. - - Veal, hashed, 190. - - Veal loaf, 204. - - Veal, minced, 205. - - Veal pie, 204. - - Veal olives, 207. - - Veal with oysters, 206. - - Veal rissoles, 208. - - Veal steaks, 195. - - Veal and sausage pie, 232. - - Veal, (loin of,) roast, 189. - - Veal, southern stew, 196. - - Veal, (terrapin,) 192. - - Vegetables, 343. - - Vegetable soup, 63. - - Venison, 252. - - Venison ham, 259. - - Venison, hashed, 255. - - Venison pie, (fine,) 255. - - Venison pie, (plain,) 257. - - Venison pot-pie, 258. - - Venison steaks, (broiled,) 253. - - Venison, stewed, 254. - - Venison haunch, (roasted,) 253. - - Venison soup, 39. - - Vinegar, 607. - - Vinegar, (raspberry,) 599. - - Vol-au-vent, 619. - - Vol-au-vent, (sweet,) 620. - - - W. - - Waffles, 441. - - Walnut catchup, 325. - - Walnuts, pickled, 578. - - Washington pudding, 630. - - Warm icing, 519. - - West India cake, 529. - - Whey, 591. - - White thickening, 311. - - White potato pudding, 478. - - Wine jelly, 496. - - Wine sauce, 334. - - Wine, (strawberry,) 564. - - Winter butter, (to make,) 624. - - Winter soup, 62. - - Woodcocks or snipes, to roast, 306. - - - Y. - - Yankee chowder, 88. - - Yankee pumpkin pudding, 390. - - Yeast, (good,) 605. - - Yeast powders, 606. - - -THE END. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Notes - - Some minor obvious typographical errors have been corrected - silently. - - Footnotes have been moved to underneath the paragraph they refer - to so as to not disrupt the flow of the text. - - Missing page numbers are attributed to blank pages in the - original text. - - -Corrections made: - - Pg. 20: "From the Pennslyvania [replaced with Pennsylvania]" - - Pg. 65: "his excellent pot a [replaced with "au"] feu" - - Pg. 146: "aid [replaced with "laid"] it a while in cold" - - Pg. 201: "for any thing that has ham [added "in"] it," - - Pg. 202: "Taragon [replaced with "Tarragon"] vinegar is best." - - Pg. 293: "a dish of beiled [replaced with "boiled"] rice to be - eaten" - - Pg. 338: "looks very meanly--and thstes [replaced with "tastes"] - so." - - Pg. 348: "beat them with a wooden spoon to reder [replaced with - "render"] them very light." - - Pg. 464: "If you have a coo [last letter cut off, replaced with - "cool"] hand," - - Pg. 493: "loosened by wrapping round their ousides [replaced - with "outsides"] cloths" - - Pg. 496: "either port, madeira, or chamaigne [replaced with - "champagne"]" - - Pg. 496: "except as some exhiliration [replaced with - "exhilaration"]" - - Pg. 536: "Ground-nut macaroon [replaced with "macaroons"] are made - in the same manner." - - Pg. 563: "stirring down to the bottom after evey [replaced with - "every"] skimming," - - Pg. 575: "Brocoli [replaced with "Broccoli"] is done in the same - manner" - - Pg. 583: "as soon as it simmers, [deleted comma] well [added - comma] take it off" - - Pg. 620: "beat and stir the soaked rusk very had [replaced with - "hard"]" - - Marjoram, marjoran (Pg. 357) and majoram (Pp. 90, 95, 602) are - used in the text, these have all been standardised to "marjoram" - as it was used in the majority. - - -The following index entries were corrected (corrections listed below in -square brackets): - - Almond and macaroon custards, 484 [486] - Almond soup, 53 [58] - Arrow-root biscuit, 303. [603] - Beef, corned, fried, 143. [148] - Bird dumplings, 505. [305] - Birds for invalids, 384. [584] - Boned turkey, 279. [271] - Cheese pudding, 431. [481] - Chocolate, 527. [597] - Cinnamon cake, 440. [528] - Crab fritters, soft, 213. [113] - Crullers, (soft,) 422. [442] - Curry balls, 273. [373] - Doughnuts, 442. [443] - Eggs, scrambled, 612. [614] - Ellen Clarke's pudding, 303. [603] - Farino [Farina] flummery, 589. - French ham pie, 516. [616] - Gravy sippets, 584. [put in correct alphabetical order] - Gravy, to make, 223. [323] - Halibut, fried, 98. [97] - Ham, broiled, 243. [241] - Ice water, (or sherbet,) 523. [513] - Indian corn, to boil, 321. [391] - India pickle, 269. [569] - Indian pudding, (fine,) 428. [incorrect page number, unable to - locate] - Jam, raspberry, 549. [548] - Jelly, (or marmalade,) pudding, 431. [480] - Lamb pie, 189. [187] - Lemon custards, 484. [485] - Lemon syrups, 522. [513] - Meringue pudding, 480. [479] - Mint julep, 608. [610] - Mutton chops, (broiled,) 171. [177] - Orange or lemon syrup, 523. [513] - Pea soup, (green,) 42. [41] - Pork with pea pudding, 280. [230] - Pork steaks, fried, 228. [223] - Pudding, (apple,) 558. [458] - Pudding, (cottage,) 582. [632] - Pudding, (Ellen Clarke's,) 303. [603] - Pudding, lemon or orange, (boiled,) 426. [476] - Pudding, meringue, 480. [479] - Pudding, plum, (plain,) 469. [468] - Pudding, white potato, 476. [478] - Pudding, marmalade or jelly, 431. [480] - Quince pies, 479. [478] - Raspberry vinegar, 509. [599] - Rice pudding, baked, 442. [452] - Rice pudding, boiled, 443. [453] - Rissole patties, 198. [incorrect page number, unable to locate] - Sauce, chestnut, 348. [343] - Sauce, (gooseberry,) 389. [339] - Sauce, (lobster,) 187 [137], 313. - Sauce, pea-nut, 348. [343] - Sausage and veal pie, 282. [232] - Souffle, (omelet,) 591. [501] - Soup, red cabbage, 46. [45] - Soup, corn, 88. [38] - Soup, oyster, 78. [73] - Soup, pea, green, 42. [41] - Soup, peas, split, 48. [43] - Soup, pepper-pot, 58. [53] - Soup, vegetable, 68. [63] - Stewed smoked beef, 145. [149] - Stewed calf's head, 206. [205] - Sweetbreads for invalids, 598. [593] - Sweet potatos, stewed, 358. [381] - Sweet potato cake, 528. [529] - Tarragon sauce, 223. [323] - Tomatos, pickled, 211. [581] - Tomatos with sea-bass, 365. [101] - Tomato soup, 89. [39] - Tongue toast, 178. [172] - Turtle, to dress, 628. [128] - Vanilla custards, 485. [484] - Vanilla syrup, 523. [513] - Vinegar, (raspberry,) 509. [599] - White potato pudding, 78. [478] - Yankee pumpkin pudding, [390]. - - -Not changed: - - Some entries in the index are not in alphabetical order. - - Inconsistencies in word hyphenation, for example: backbone and - back-bone, table-spoonful and tablespoonful. - - Inconsistencies in section title punctuation. - - All French spelling. - - Pg. 574: "Your may green bell-peppers in the usual way, with - vine leaves or cabbage leaves." [unsure as to the true meaning] - - -Variant spellings left unchanged: - - canvas-back, canvass-back - Ellen Clarke's pudding, Ellen Clark's pudding - inclose, enclose - Indian meal, indian meal - macaroni, maccaroni - marigold, marygold - panada, panade - potato, potatoe - rince, rinse - trevet, trivet - - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Miss Leslie's New Cookery Book, by Eliza Leslie - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MISS LESLIE'S NEW COOKERY BOOK *** - -***** This file should be named 40943.txt or 40943.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/0/9/4/40943/ - -Produced by Julia Miller, fh and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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