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diff --git a/41899.txt b/41899.txt deleted file mode 100644 index fc3ed50..0000000 --- a/41899.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,19033 +0,0 @@ -Project Gutenberg's The Modern Housewife or, Menagere, by Alexis Soyer - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Modern Housewife or, Menagere - Comprising Nearly One Thousand Receipts, for the Economic - and Judicious Preparation of Every Meal of the Day, with - those of The Nursery and Sick Room, and Minute Directions - for Family Management in All its Branches. - -Author: Alexis Soyer - -Release Date: January 22, 2013 [EBook #41899] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE *** - - - - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - -HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL -WORKS. - -ARNOLD, (Dr.) Early History of -Rome. 2 vols. 8vo.....$5 00 - -ARNOLD, (Dr.) History of the -Later Roman Commonwealth. -8vo......2 50 - -ARNOLD, (Dr.) Lectures on Modern -History, edited by Professor -Reed. 12mo......1 25 - -ARNOLD, (Dr.) Life and Correspondence, -by the Rev. 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Illus......1 00 - - - - - THE - - MODERN HOUSEWIFE - - OR, - - MENAGERE. - - COMPRISING - - NEARLY ONE THOUSAND RECEIPTS, - - FOR THE ECONOMIC AND JUDICIOUS - - PREPARATION OF EVERY MEAL OF THE DAY, - - WITH THOSE OF - - THE NURSERY AND SICK ROOM, - - AND MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT - IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. - - Illustrated with Engravings. - - BY - - ALEXIS SOYER, - - AUTHOR OF "THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR." - - EDITED BY AN AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPER. - - NEW YORK: - - D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 200 BROADWAY. - PHILADELPHIA: G. S. APPLETON, 146 CHESNUT ST. - - 1850. - - ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by - - D. APPLETON & COMPANY, - - in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District - of New-York. - - - - -PREFACE BY THE EDITOR. - - -In adapting M. Soyer's admirable receipt book to the use of American -families, I have not presumed to amend, or attempted to improve upon the -text of so accomplished a master of the art, which may with entire -propriety be called the "preservative of all arts." All that I have -ventured to do has been to make a verbal correction here and there, -necessary to render the meaning of the author more plain; to erase -certain directions for cooking different kinds of game and fish unknown -in the new world; and to omit the purely local information, and scraps -of history, which only increased the cost and bulk of the book, without, -in any way, adding to its value. - -Except in one instance, nothing has been added; for the object in -republishing the MENAGERE, was to furnish a new and valuable work on the -preparation of food, which should contain important receipts hitherto -unknown. Every country must have its indigenous dishes, and it is to be -presumed that every American housekeeper likely to profit by M. Soyer's -receipts, will need no instruction in the art of preparing the many -excellent dishes peculiar to the United States. - -It is a vulgar error to suppose that French cookery is more costly and -highly flavored than English; an examination of the MENAGERE will -abundantly prove that the reverse is the fact, and that M. Soyer's -system, which has rendered him famous in Europe, is not only simple and -economical, but the best adapted to insuring the enjoyment of health, -the elevation of the mental faculties, and converting the daily -necessity of eating into a source of daily enjoyment. M. Soyer's great -work, THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR, was prepared for the highest classes -of English society, and public festivals; but the MENAGERE is adapted to -the wants and habits of the middle classes, and, as presented in the -present edition, calculated for the use of the great bulk of American -families. - -M. Soyer is the good genius of the kitchen; although he is the renowned -_chef_ of one of the most sumptuous of the London Club Houses, and the -pet of aristocratic feeders, he has labored continually to elevate the -mind, and better the condition of the poor by instructing them in the -art of obtaining the greatest amount of nourishment and enjoyment from -their food. The dietetic maxims and culinary receipts of M. Soyer are -not less needed in the United States than in England; but for different -reasons. Happily, our countrymen do not suffer for lack of raw -materials, so much as for lack of cooks; and, in the Modern Housewife of -M. Soyer, our housekeepers will find a reliable guide and an invaluable -friend. - -_New York, December, 1849._ - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - -INTRODUCTION, - - DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B---- AND MRS. L----, HER FRIEND - AND VISITOR, 1 - - LETTER NO. I., 5 - - LETTER NO. II., 6 - -BREAKFASTS, 7 - -FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS, 8 - -LETTER NO. III., 26 - -EARLY LUNCHEONS, 27 - -LETTER NO. IV., 27 - -THE NURSERY DINNER, 28 - -LETTER NO. V., ib. - -COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS, 33 - -PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS, 47 - -POULTRY FOR INVALIDS, 53 - -CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE, 55 - -LETTER NO. VI., ib. - -LETTER NO. VII., 56 - -LETTER NO. VIII., 57 - -LETTER NO. IX., 58 - -LETTER NO. X., ib. - -LETTER NO. XI., ib. - -ROASTING, 59 - -BAKING, BOILING, STEWING, BRAISING, 60 - -FRYING, 61 - -SAUTEING, 62 - -BROILING, 63 - -SAUCES, 64 - -SOUPS, 75 - -FISH, 93 - -FISH SAUCES, 111 - -REMOVES, 117 - -LETTER NO. XII., 120 - -POULTRY, 143 - -FLANCS, 158 - -ENTREES, OR MADE DISHES, 158 - -LETTER NO. XIII., 178 - -LETTER NO. XIV., 181 - -DISHES WITH THE REMAINS OF LAMB, 184 - -EGGS, 216 - -GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES, 219 - -ENTRIES OF GAME, 220 - -ROASTS--SECOND COURSE, 227 - -SAVORY DISHES 234 - -LETTER NO. XV., 244 - -SHELL-FISH, 250 - -VEGETABLES, 253 - -OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY, 268 - -JELLIES, 286 - -PUDDINGS IN MOULDS, 291 - -PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS, 293 - -PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES, 294 - -REMOVES--SECOND COURSE, 296 - -SOUFFLE, 299 - -DESSERT, 305 - -LETTER NO. XVI., ib. - -COMPOTE, 307 - -COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED, 310 - -SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS, 321 - -LETTER NO. XVII., 327 - -LETTER NO. XVIII., 332 - -BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES, ib. - -LETTER NO. XIX., 334 - -CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS, 336 - -BILLS OF FARE, 339 - -LETTER NO. XX.--A NEW ALIMENT, 345 - -CARVING, 346 - -LETTER NO. XXI.--THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE, 348 - -INDEX, 351 - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - In the following gossipping conversation between Mrs. B---- and - Mrs. L----, and in the two letters which follow, M. Soyer explains - the motive of the work; and, in a natural manner introduces the - subject.--ED. - - - - -DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B---- AND MRS. L----, HER FRIEND AND VISITOR. - - -_Mrs. L._ I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly a fortnight at your -delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth, that I never fared -better in my life, yet I am considered somewhat of an epicure, as is -likewise my husband; but, of course, our means being rather limited, we -are obliged to live accordingly. - -_Mrs. B._ Well, so must we; and I assure you that, during the first few -years of our marriage, our pecuniary resources were but small, but even -then I managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense -compared with some of our neighbors, who lived more expensively, but not -so well as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flattered -me with the appellation of the "Model Housekeeper," and admired the -comforts of our table, but would leave with the impression that I must -be the most extravagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always prided -myself, whether having to provide for a ceremonious party or dining by -ourselves, to have everything properly done and served, that, if any -friends should come in by accident or on business, they were generally -well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without extravagance, -as my husband is well convinced; for when we dine with any acquaintance -of ours he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of -management; for though he is no great judge of what is called the -highest style of cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any -time; as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the food,--a -chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good -quality and properly cooked, and every one who partakes of it will enjoy -it. - -_Mrs. L._ Nothing more true! - -_Mrs. B._ But since you talk of limited income and economy, let me -relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between Mr. -B. and a friend of his, who declared to him that his income would never -allow him to live in such luxury, which he called a comfortable -extravagance. - -"Extravagance!" exclaimed Mr. B., "if you have a few minutes to spare, I -will convince you of the contrary, and prove to you that such an -expression is very unjust, if applied to my wife's management. Now, to -begin; what sum should you suppose would cover our annual housekeeping -expenditure, living as we do, in a style of which you so much approve, -but consider so extravagant? there are ten of us in family, viz., myself -and wife, three children, two female servants, and three young men -employed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party, which, -of course you know, (having participated in the last two), besides two -separate birthday parties of twenty each, and three juvenile -petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal -anniversaries, also a friend dropping in occasionally, which is never -less than once or twice a-week."--"Well, I do not know," answered our -friend; "but having nearly the same number to provide for, and in a more -humble way, my expenses for housekeeping are never less than L---- per -annum."--"Less than what?" exclaimed Mr. B.; "why, my dear friend, you -must be mistaken;" at the same time ringing the bell." I wish I were, -with all my heart," was the reply, as the servant entered the room; -"Jane," said Mr. B., "ask your mistress to step this way for a few -minutes; I wish to look at her housekeeping book." But being busy at the -time in the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened -to be a wrong one, but, upon discovering the mistake, sent up the right -one with an apology for not coming myself, as I was superintending the -cooking of some veal broth, which the doctor had ordered for our poor -little Henry, who was ill at the time. "Well," said his friend, "there -is a wife for you; I must confess mine can hardly find the way to the -kitchen stairs." "Now!" said my husband, opening my desk, and, taking up -my book, he showed him the last year's expenditure, which was L----. -"No! no! that is impossible," replied the other. "But," said Mr B., -"there it is in black and white." "Why, good heavens!" exclaimed he, -"without giving so many parties, and also two less in family, my -expenditure is certainly greater." To which Mr. B. replied, "So I should -imagine from the style in which I saw your table provided the few days -when we were on a visit to your house; therefore I am not in the least -astonished. Here, however, is the account for the closing year just made -up to the 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably -to L50 or L60 more." "So, so," replied the other, "that is an -increase;"--"Let it be so," said Mr. B.; "but you must remember that we -are twelve months older, and as our business increases, so do we -increase our comforts; and this year Mrs. B., with the children, had a -pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months, which will account for -the greater part of it." - -_Mrs. L._ But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as your friend -could possibly have been. I should, however, have liked you to explain -the matter; but here comes your husband, who will probably initiate me -in your culinary secrets. - -Good morning, my dear Mr. B. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her -system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a conversation you had -with a gentleman, who was surprised with its economy. I am also -surprised, and should like to take a few leaves out of your most -excellent book, if you will allow me. - -_Mr. B._ Certainly, my dear madam; in my wife, without flattering her -too much, you see almost an accomplished woman (in hearing such praise, -Mrs. B. retired, saying, "How foolish you talk, Richard"); she speaks -two or three different languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is -rather proficient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering -household knowledge to be of the greater importance, made her first -acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano; -that is the only secret, dear madam; and this is the explanation that I -gave to my friend, who thought it a good jest and one of truth. I told -him to do the same by his two daughters, which would not only make them -more happy through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity, -by setting an example worthy of being followed. I always say, give me a -domesticated wife, and with my industry I would not change my position -for a kingdom; "Very true, very true," was my friend's answer, and we -then parted. - -I have never seen him since nor his wife, who was probably offended at -the economical propositions of her husband; for nothing, you are well -aware, is more common than for people to be offended when told the truth -respecting themselves; or perhaps she was too advanced in years to think -of changing her ideas of housekeeping. - -I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate to convey -you to the railway; allow me to see you safe to the station; you will -not have many minutes to spare, for the train will shortly be up. - -About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was seen entering -her cottage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow as closely as possible -the economic management of Mrs. B.; but a little reflection soon made -her perceive that she possessed only the theory, and was sadly deficient -in the practice: she then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts -in writing, and immediately dispatched the following letter:-- - - -_From Mrs. L--- to Mrs. B----._ - -Oatlands Cottage; Jan. 1st, 1849. - - MY DEAR HORTENSE,--Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to say that - I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so - long an absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough - to say appeared months; but to myself the time appeared to pass - very swiftly; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested - in watching closely how well you managed your household affairs, - that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your - recherche style of cookery, which even now I cannot make out how - you could do it at such moderate expense: and, apropos of cooking, - Mr. L., expecting me home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long - interview and discussion with Cook respecting the bill of fare. - "Well, sir," I will suppose she said, "what can be better than a - fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons; we have a very fine - 'un hanging in the larder." (You must observe, dear, that my cook - is plain in every way.) "A very excellent notion that, Cook; - nothing can be better than a good goose;" was no doubt, my - husband's answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner, cannot - endure the trouble of ordering it. - - Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window - slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have - been amalgamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose, - especially the sage and onions; and I am almost certain that the - inseparable applesauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the - brown smoke now ascending from the grating over the kitchen window. - This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have quite - a reform in my little establishment, and first of all to bring up - my daughter in the way recommended by Mr. B. to his friend, to make - her more domesticated than I am myself, as I begin to perceive that - a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as - intellectual education; and, for my part, I have come to the - determination of adopting your system of management as closely as - possible; but first, you must know, that, without your scientific - advice, it will be totally impossible; therefore I beg to propose - (if you can afford the time) that you will, by writing, give me the - description how you lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition - of a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast - bread, which I so much enjoyed while with you; even how to make - toast, and more especially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa - (tea, of course, I know). And should this meet your approbation, I - mean to make a little journal, which may some day or other be - useful to our families and friends. - - Until I hear from you I shall be waiting with anxiety for your - decision upon this important and domestic subject. - -Yours very sincerely, -ELOISE. - - -_From Mrs. B----, in reply._ - -Bifrons Villa; Jan. 3d, 1849. - - MY DEAR ELOISE,--In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest - pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I - must say, is very original, and may, as you observe, prove useful; - but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfast only? - why not go through the different meals of the day? that is, after - breakfast, the luncheon; then the nursery-dinner at One; and here - it strikes me that, in that series, we might introduce some - receipts, to be called Comforts for Invalids; even our servants' - dinners and teas; then the early dinner at two or three for people - in business, the parlor-dinner at six, the coffee after dinner, and - even suppers for a small ball or evening party; but all on a - moderate scale, leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its - proper sphere. - - * * * * * - - To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first - receipt, _How to make Toast_. - - - - -BREAKFASTS. - - -When we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in family, five of -whom breakfasted together, the three young men in the shop, Mr. B----, -and myself. The cloth was laid by the servant girl at half-past seven -precisely; at ten minutes to eight I used to make tea, and at eight -o'clock we were seated at breakfast, which was composed merely of bread -and butter at discretion, fresh water cresses when plentiful, or -sometimes boiled eggs, and for variation, once a week, coffee, and if in -the winter, we had toast, which I never suffered any servant to prepare -more than five minutes before we were seated, for, if standing any time, -the dry toast becomes tough, and the buttered very greasy, and -consequently unpalatable, as well as indigestible. Twenty minutes only -was the time allowed for breakfast, after which the table was cleared, -the cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning, for we kept -a separate one for dinner, and imposed the fine of a half-penny upon any -one who should spill their tea or coffee over the cloth by carelessness. -Such was always my plan when in business; for you must know as well as -myself, it is not only the expense of the washing, but the continual -wear and tear of the linen, which make such frequent washings so -ruinous, but my cloth used always to look clean, and I am confident that -not less than five pounds a-year were saved on that very trifling -matter, and you know we thought as much then of five pounds as we -perhaps now do of twenty. - -Before partaking of a breakfast, you must provide the materials (which I -always select of the best quality), and require to know how to prepare -them. I shall, therefore, give you a series of every description of -articles which may properly be partaken of at the breakfast-table. - - - - -FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS. - - Perhaps some housekeepers may laugh at the presumption of M. Soyer - in attempting to give a formal receipt for so trifling a matter as - making a piece of toast. But, in Cookery, there are no trifles. - Every preparation of food, however simple, requires thought, care, - and experience. Among the unpleasantnesses of our breakfast-tables, - there are none more common than poor toast.--ED. - - -1. _Toast._--Procure a nice square loaf of bread that has been baked one -or two days previously (for new bread cannot be cut, and would eat very -heavy), then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust very evenly, -and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in -thickness (I generally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast, -being longer in the blade, it is more handy, and less liable to waste -the bread); contrive to have rather a clear fire; place a slice of the -bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it -a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it before the fire another -minute, by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to -move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a -yellowish-brown color, when again turn it, toasting the other side in -the same manner; then lay it upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt -butter (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would -make it heavy), spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut -into four or six pieces; should you require six such slices for a -numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for -the whole; but cut each slice into pieces as soon as buttered, and pile -them lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it. This way you -will find a great improvement upon the old system, as often in cutting -through four or five slices with a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter -out of the upper one, and discover the under one, at the peril of its -life, swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish. - -N.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on both sides, is a -very great improvement upon the quality of the toast; it may give a -trifle more trouble, but still it is quicker done, and much lighter. - -All kinds of toast require to be done the same way, but if to be served -under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be toasted drier. - -Being in every way an economist, I have generally saved the remnants of -the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten as bread, and by just -dipping them in warm water, toasting them gradually, and buttering them, -I have generally found that they have been eaten in preference, but -their being stale is a secret of my own, which, if divulged, would -prevent their ever being eaten after. - - -2. _Dry Toast._--Ought not to be toasted until quite ready to serve; -when done, place it in a toast-rack, or standing upon its edges, one -piece resting against another; any kind of toast that has been made half -an hour is not worth eating. - - -3. _To toast Muffins_ (for Receipt, see No. 6.)--Just open, half an inch -deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly in the centre, with a knife, -then put your toasting-fork in the middle of the bottom, hold it a -little distance from the fire, until partly warmed through, when turn it -and put it again to the fire until it becomes lightly toasted, when -again turn it to toast the other side; when done, pull it open, spread a -thin layer of butter on each side, close them together; lay them upon a -plate, then with a sharp knife divide them across the middle, and serve -very hot. If more than one muffin is required, cut them all separately, -and pile them lightly one upon another, on the plate; when well -prepared, they are, in my opinion, a very great luxury, obtainable at a -trifling expense. - - -4. _To toast Crumpets._--Crumpets stand lower in the general estimation -of the public, probably from not being so _distingue_, and having the -misfortune to be cheaper than their sister muffins; but, for all that, -the poor ought never to be forgotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows -is not to be despised. Choose your crumpets fresh if possible, though -they are not bad after having been made three or four days; toast them -by warming both sides first, like muffins, then give them a nice light -brown color on each side, lay them in a plate, and spread some rather -soft butter lightly upon each side; cut in halves with a sharp knife, -and serve; half a pat of butter to each crumpet is quite sufficient. If -you have several to serve, lay them separately upon a large hot dish; -some people lay them one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, as it -causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough, and such food cannot -be wholesome. Crumpets require to be toasted rather quick. - - -5. _To make Rolls and other Breakfast Bread._--Put four pounds of flour -into an earthen pan, make a hole in the centre, in which put three parts -of a pint of warm water, to which you add a gill of white brewer's -yeast, free from bitter, mix a little flour to form a leaven, which set -in a warm place to rise (it must be allowed to remain until the leaven -has risen and begun to fall), then add a little salt and a pint of warm -milk, form the whole into a flexible dough, which keep in a warm place -for another hour; it is then ready, and may be moulded into the form of -rolls, twists, little crusty loaves, or any shapes most pleasing for the -breakfast-table. - - -6. _To make Muffins._--Mix a quart of warm water in which you have -dissolved a quarter of a pound of German yeast, with sufficient flour to -form a stiffish batter, which let remain in a warm place four hours, -then stir the mixture down, and break it into pieces weighing a quarter -of a pound each, which mould round with your hands, and put into wooden -trays containing a round bed of flour for each; let them remain in a -warm place two hours to prove, when have your muffin-stove hot; have a -round piece of iron; place on the fire to get hot; set the muffins upon -it, and when nicely risen, turn them gently over, baking them upon the -stove until sufficiently set, when they are done; they will take about -ten minutes baking if the stove is at the proper heat, which is known by -throwing a little flour on it and becoming brown. Muffins may also be -made of brewer's yeast, but then they would require longer proving, and -great care must be taken that the yeast be not bitter. - - -7. _To make Crumpets._--Mix a gill of brewer's yeast, free from bitter, -with two quarts of water, just lukewarm, to which add sufficient flour -to make a thinnish batter, and let it stand six hours in a warm place, -when stir it well with a wooden spoon, and let it remain four hours -longer; have the muffin-stove hot, upon which lay a number of tin hoops, -the size of crumpets, pour a small ladleful of the batter into each -hoop, and when the top is covered with small bladders, turn them quickly -over (hoops and all) with a large palate knife, and in about five -minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked. - - -8. _Rusks._--Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, make a hole in -the middle, into which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in a -pint of warm water, mix a little of the flour in, and leave it half an -hour in a warm place to rise, then add two ounces of powdered sugar, and -a quarter of a pound of butter, dissolved in half a pint of warm water; -mix the whole into a dough, and let it remain in a warm place until well -risen, when work it down with the hands, divide it in three pieces, each -of which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness, place them -upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart, and put them in a warm -place to prove, occasionally moistening the tops with milk; bake them in -a moderate oven; when cold, cut them in slices the thickness of a penny -piece, which lay upon a clean baking-sheet, and put into a warm oven, -when well browned upon one side, turn them over, put them again into the -oven until the other side is browned, when they are done and ready for -use. - - -9. _Tops and Bottoms._--Make a dough exactly as described in the last, -but using only half the butter; have a deep-edged baking-sheet well -buttered, and when the dough is ready, turn it on to a dresser, well -floured; divide into small pieces the size of walnuts, which mould into -round balls, and place close together upon the baking-sheet; put them in -a warm place to prove, and bake well in a moderate oven; when cold, -divide and cut each one in halves (making a top and bottom) which brown -in the oven as directed for rusks. - - -10. _Buns._--Put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan, make a hole in -the middle, in which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in three -parts of a pint of warm water, and stir in a little of the flour, -forming a thinnish batter, let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour, -until well fermented, when add half a pound of sugar, a few currants, -and half a pound of butter, dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk, mix -the whole well together, making a soft but dry dough; let it remain in a -warm place until it rises very light, when turn it out of the pan on to -a board; work it well with the hands, shaking flour over lightly, then -mould it into small round balls, double the size of walnuts, which place -upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart; moisten the tops with -milk; put them in a warm place to prove, not, however, permitting them -to crack, and bake them in a hot oven. - - -11.--_Brioche Rolls._--Put four pounds of flour upon a dresser, one -pound of which put on one side, make a hole in the middle into which -pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm water, in which you have -dissolved an ounce of German yeast; mix it into a stiff but delicate -paste, which roll up into a ball: cut an incision across it, and lay it -in a basin well floured, in a warm place, until becoming very light, -then make a large hole in the centre of the three pounds of flour, into -which put half an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill -of water, and sixteen eggs, mix it into a rather softish flexible paste, -which press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and -working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a clean cloth, fold -the paste in it and let remain all night. In the morning mould them into -small rolls; put them upon a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. -Unless your breakfast party is very large, half the above quantity would -be sufficient; but these rolls being quite a luxury, I only make them -upon very especial occasions. - - -12. _How to choose Eggs._--New-laid eggs should not be used until they -have been laid about eight or ten hours, for that part which constitutes -the white is not properly set before that time, and does not until then -obtain their delicate flavor; that which is termed milk in eggs being, -according to my opinion, very insipid; but that entirely depends upon -fancy. - -Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decomposition, it -is very important that every person should know how to detect them -(especially in the winter), if, by shaking them, they sound hollow, you -may be certain they are not new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for -breakfast: but, if broken, they may prove fit for any other culinary -purpose, except for souffles, for which eggs must be very fresh. The -safest way to try them is to hold them to the light, forming a focus -with your hand; should the shell be covered with small dark spots, they -are very doubtful, and should be broken separately in a cup, and each -egg smelt previous to using; if, however, in looking at them, you see no -transparency in the shells, you may be sure they are rotten and only fit -to be thrown away; the most precise way is, to look at them by the light -of a candle; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, and -they have a brilliant light yellow tint; in the spring of the year, it -would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite fresh. - - -13. _Eggs for Breakfast,--plain boiled._--Put about a pint of water to -boil in any kind of small stewpan (or saucepan) over the fire; when -boiling, put in two or three fresh eggs, gently, with a spoon, being -particular not to crack them or allow them to boil too fast, or the -interior of the eggs would partly escape before they were set, giving -them an unsightly appearance, and entirely prevent their cooking -regularly: three minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg, but if -below the average size, two minutes and a half will suffice. - - -14. _Eggs au Beurre: a new method._--Let the eggs boil six minutes -instead of three, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in cold -water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate (they -will remain quite whole if properly done), cut each egg in halves -lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little salt over -the interior, and eat them very hot. - -Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible. - - -15. _To boil Eggs hard._--Never boil eggs for salads, sauces, or any -other purposes, more than ten minutes, and when done place them in a -basin of cold water for five minutes to cool: take off their shells, and -use them when required. - -Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard-boiled. - - -16. _Poached Eggs._--Put a pint of water in a stewpan, with four -teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt, place it over -the fire, and when boiling, break your eggs into it as near the surface -of the water as possible, let them boil gently about three minutes; have -rather a thin piece of toast, as described (No. 1), upon a dish, take -the eggs out carefully with a small slice, lay the slice with the eggs -upon a cloth for a second to drain the water from them, set them -carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they -will look most inviting, but the way of breaking and boiling them must -be most carefully attended to, and care should be taken not to boil too -many together; if the yolks separate from the white it may be presumed -that the egg is not fresh, but it may be eatable, for the same thing may -happen through awkwardness in poaching. - -Again, the toast upon which they are served may be buttered either with -plain or maitre d'hotel butter, or two small pats of butter may be -melted, without boiling it, and poured over, or a little melted butter -sauce, or the same with the addition of a little maitre d'hotel butter -poured over when just upon the point of boiling, or a little anchovy -butter instead of the other; thus you may be able to indulge in nice -little luxuries at a trifling expense. - - -17. _Toast and Eggs._--Break three eggs into a small stewpan, add a -saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pepper, and two -ounces of fresh butter (the fresher the better), set the stewpan over a -moderate fire, and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being -careful to keep every particle in motion, until the whole has become a -smooth and delicate thickish substance; have ready a convenient-sized -crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediately. - - -18. _Eggs sur le Plat._--Lightly butter a small oval dish, upon which -break two, three, or more eggs without breaking the yolks, season -lightly with a little white pepper and salt, put a few small pieces of -butter here and there upon them, and then set the dish in a small oven, -where let it remain until the whites become set, but by no means hard, -and serve hot; if the oven is moderately hot, they will take about ten -minutes; if no oven, put the dish before the fire, turning it round now -and then until the eggs are set regular. This is a most excellent dish. - - -19. _Omelettes_ may also be served for breakfast with great advantage, -being very relishing, especially the omelettes _aux fines herbes_, _au -lard_, and _aux champignons_, but as they are considered to belong to -the dinner, they will be given in that series of receipts. - - -20. _Herring Toast Sandwich._--Choose a bloater for this purpose not too -dry, which split in two, cutting it down the back; lay them upon a plate -and pour a pint of boiling water over; let them soak five minutes, when -lay them upon a cloth to dry; then broil them very gradually upon a -gridiron; when well done, which will be in about four or five minutes, -have ready two thin slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them -lightly, then take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the fleshy -parts equally upon one piece of toast and cover with the other: serve -very hot. - - -21. _Toast and Eggs with Herring._--Prepare your toast and eggs as -directed (No. 17), but previous to pouring the eggs over, lay the flesh -of a herring as directed in the last, and pour the eggs over that. -Herrings upon toast, with a layer of mashed potatoes over, is also very -good. - -Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also may sardines, but -they being ready-cooked, are laid over cold without splitting them; they -are very delicious; if wanted hot, set them a few minutes before the -fire. - - -22. _Fish for Breakfast,--Bloated Herrings._--They require to be freshly -salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpalatable; scrape them -lightly with a knife, and wipe them well with a cloth; pass the point of -a knife down the back from head to tail, making an incision about a -quarter of an inch in depth; place them upon the gridiron over a sharp -fire; they will take about six minutes to cook, of course turning them -occasionally; when done, put them upon a hot dish, open the backs, and -place half a small pat of butter in each; again close them: cooked this -way they are delicious, especially if they are real bloaters. Another -way is to cut them quite open and broil them flat upon the gridiron, and -serve quite plain; this way they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice -and fresh, oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which fold -them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, turning them over three -or four times, and serve in the papers. Should you have any that have -become dry, soak them about twenty minutes in lukewarm water, and -proceed as first directed. (Same process will do for red herrings.) - - -23. _Dried Haddock._--A very excellent thing for breakfast, but they -never ought to be cooked whole, for one side being thinner than the -other is of course dried up before the other is much more than half -done, especially the larger ones; the better plan is to cut them in -halves lengthwise, put them upon the gridiron over a moderate fire, -keeping them frequently turned, and taking the thinnest half off first; -the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly; when -done, spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish. - -Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper, but of course -would take rather more time in cooking. - - -24. _Whitings._--Of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for -breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the -Scotch, which renders them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food -that could possibly be served for breakfast: their method is, to obtain -the fish as fresh as possible, clean and skin them, take out the eyes, -cover the fish over with salt, immediately after which take them out and -shake off the superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and -hang them up to dry in a passage or some place where there is a current -of air; the next morning take them off, just roll them lightly in a -little flour, broil them gently over a slow fire, and serve very hot, -with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry -if preferable. - - -25. _Slips or Small Soles._--When cleaned, season them with a little -pepper and salt, dip lightly into flour, and broil them slowly over a -moderate fire about ten minutes, or according to the size; when done, -place them upon a hot dish, pour two tablespoonfuls of cream over and -serve immediately. They may of course be served dry, but pouring the -cream over is a new and very good idea. Nothing but small white fish -could be tolerated for breakfast. - - -26. _Sprats_ when nicely cooked are very commendable. Dip them lightly -into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire; when about -half done, turn them; when done (which would be in about five minutes -from the time you put them on), serve dry in a very hot dish. - - -27. _Meat for Breakfast,--Sheep's Kidneys._--Procure as many as you may -require for your party, about one each is generally sufficient; be sure -that they are fresh, which any person can ascertain by smelling, if not -able to judge by their appearance; cut them open very evenly lengthwise, -down to the root, but not to separate them; then have some small iron or -wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat, by running the -skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under the white part; season -them rather highly with pepper and salt, and place them upon a gridiron -(the inside downwards), over a sharp fire; in three minutes turn them -over, and in about six they will be sufficiently done; then take them -off the skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately. -In opening them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one -half be thicker than the other, one would be dried before the other was -sufficiently cooked. - - -28. _Kidneys on Toast._--Prepare the kidneys precisely as in the last, -but when done have ready a piece of hot toast, which butter lightly; lay -the kidneys upon it; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you -have added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; place a -small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when melted serve. - - -29. _Kidney bread-crumbed, a la Maitre d'Hotel._--Prepare the kidneys as -before, and when upon the skewer, have ready upon a plate an egg well -beat up with a fork; season the kidneys with a little salt and pepper, -dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them with bread-crumbs, put -them upon the gridiron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them -about ten minutes, turning them when half done, have ready a little -maitre d'hotel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and serve -immediately upon a very hot dish; by the time it gets upon the table the -butter will be melted, and they eat very relishing; dressed this way -they may also be served upon toast. - - -30. _Sauted Kidneys._--Should you not have a fire fit for broiling, put -an ounce of butter into a saute-pan (which of course must be very -clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise; and when the butter is -melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having previously well -seasoned them with pepper and salt; set the pan on a moderate fire three -minutes, then turn them, place them again upon the fire until done; when -have ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the -kidneys with the butter and gravy over and serve very hot, care must be -taken in sauteing that the butter does not become burnt. - -Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, or -onions, over them whilst being sauted; this materially changes the -flavor, and meets the approbation of many. - -For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl, broiled -bones, or remnants of poultry or game, I must refer you to where they -are given as receipts for the dinner-table. - - -31. _Bacon and Ham, how to choose both fit for broiling._--Ham for -broiling ought not to be too old or too dry, it would perhaps eat rank: -nothing requires more care than broiling. Either get a slice of ham -weighing a quarter of a pound or two ounces, which lay on your gridiron; -put them over the fire; it will take perhaps five minutes, if the fire -is good, and more, of course, if slow, but in that short space of time -turn them three or four times, and it is done. Proceed the same if you -want to serve it with poached eggs, but be careful that the eggs be -ready at the same time as the bacon or ham, or both would eat badly. If -you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose only, begin to -cut the slices in a slanting direction and the same thickness, and -proceed to the end of the ham with the remainder; it will prove more -profitable to broil with greens, peas, broad beans, &c., &c. - -To saute it, put a little butter or good fat in the pan; set it on the -fire with your slice in it, saute very gently, turning very often, and -serve it on very thin toast. - - -32. _Ham and Eggs._--While your ham is doing, break two fresh eggs in -the pan, season slightly with salt and pepper, set it before the fire -till the eggs are delicately done, and slip them whole carefully into -your dish, without breaking the yolk. - - -33. _Bacon._--The streaky part of a thick flank of bacon is to be -preferred; cut nice slices not above a quarter of an inch thick, take -off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire, turn it -three or four times in the space of five minutes; this will be all the -cooking required: serve it very hot. Though this is the best part, the -whole of the bacon is still good, especially if not rank, which can be -easily detected by its yellowish color: if too dry or salt, after it has -been cut in slices, dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four -times, and saute as usual, it will make it softer and less salt: serve -as usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon, it is also very -good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast. - - -34. _Sausages._--Sausages are very frequently esteemed for breakfast. By -all means, never use them, except you are confident that they are fresh. -The skin must be transparent, that the meat should be seen through; they -keep good two or three days in a cold place in summer, nearly a week in -winter (with care). For the receipt how to make them in the homely way, -see future letter. - - -35. _Sausages, how to cook them._--Prick them with a pin all round about -twenty times, put them on the gridiron over a gentle fire, turn three or -four times, by doing which you will have them a very nice yellow color; -dish them, and serve them very hot. - - -36. _Sauted Sausages._--If your fire smokes, it is preferable to saute -them; put some butter in the pan, with four sausages; after you have -pricked them as before-mentioned, saute gently, a few minutes will do -them, turn them often; in many instances a thin slice of bread sauted in -the fat they have produced is a great improvement; save the fat, as it -is always useful in a kitchen. In case you are in a hurry to do them, -throw them into hot water for one minute previously to their being -broiled or sauted; they will then be the sooner cooked, and even eat -rather more relishing to a delicate stomach, having extracted the oil -from the skin; they may also be fried in the frying-pan. - - -37. _Black Puddings, broiled._--Make about six or eight incisions -through the skin with a knife, in a slanting way, on each side of the -pudding; put it on the gridiron for about eight minutes, on rather a -brisk fire, turn it four times in that space of time, and serve it -broiling hot. - -I should recommend those who are fond of black puddings to partake of no -other beverage than tea or coffee, as cocoa or chocolate would be a clog -to the stomach. In France they partake of white wine for breakfast, -which accounts for the great consumption of black pudding. Now really -this is a very favorite dish with epicures, but I never should recommend -it to a delicate stomach. - - - ON COFFEE.--Coffee, which has now come so generally into use, - originally came from Arabia, where it has been known from time - immemorial, but was brought into use in England in the year 1653; - as it is not generally known how it was introduced, I will give you - the account of it from "Houghton's Collection," 1698. "It appears - that a Mr. Daniel Edwards, an English Merchant of Smyrna, brought - with him to this country a Greek of the name of Pasqua, in 1652, - who made his coffee; this Mr. Edwards married one Alderman Hodges's - daughter, who lived in Walbrook, and set up Pasqua for a coffee-man - in a shed in the churchyard in St. Michael, Cornhill, which is now - a scrivener's brave-house, when, having great custom, the - ale-sellers petitioned the Lord Mayor against him, as being no - freeman. This made Alderman Hodges join his coachman, Bowman, who - was free, as Pasqua's partner; but Pasqua, for some misdemeanor, - was forced to run the country, and Bowman, by his trade and a - contribution of 1000 sixpences, turned the shed to a house. - Bowman's apprentices were first, John Painter, then Humphrey, from - whose wife I had this account." Having examined the renter - churchwarden's book of St. Michael, Cornhill, I find that the house - or shed Bowman built is now part of the Jamaica Coffee-House; it - was rebuilt by Bowman, after the fire, in 1667. - - It is a very remarkable fact that but few persons in England know - how to make good coffee, although so well supplied with the first - quality of that delicious berry; but, by way of contrast, I must - say that the middle classes of France are quite as ignorant of the - method of making tea. - - I remember, upon one occasion, whilst staying at Havre with Mr. B., - where we were upon a visit at the house of one of his agents, who - invited a few of his friends to meet us at a tea-party _a - l'Anglaise_, as they used to call it, about an hour previous to - tea, and previous to the arrival of the guests, I was walking upon - the lawn before the house, when my attention was attracted by a - cloud of steam issuing from the kitchen-window, smelling most - powerfully of tea: my curiosity led me to the kitchen, where I - found the cook busily engaged making cocoa and most delicious - coffee, but preparing the tea in a ridiculous fashion, the leaves - of which were in an awful state of agitation, attempting as it were - to escape from an earthen pot at the side of the fire, in which the - delicious soup we had for dinner was made a few hours previously. - (_See_ Pot-au-Feu.) - - "My dear girl," said I (in French), "what process do you call that - of making tea? it never ought to be boiled." - - "I beg your pardon, Madame," says she, "master and mistress like it - well done, and it will be another short half-hour before it is - properly cooked (ce sera alors copieux)." - - "You are decidedly wrong," said I, "and I shall be most happy to - show you the way we make it in England." - - "Yes, I know what you mean, Madame," replied she; "I used to make - it that way before, but no one liked it, that is, to boil it one - hour in a copper-pan over a charcoal fire." Upon which I retired, - making a most comical grimace, to refrain from laughing at her - still more ridiculous fashion. - - You must, however, observe that this occurred nearly twelve years - ago, and I have no doubt but a reform has taken place since then - by the continual traffic of the English through that part of the - country. I must say, with respect to ourselves, we do not make - quite such a blunder respecting coffee, but still our middle - classes very seldom enjoy the aroma of that delicious beverage, - which should be made as follows: - - Choose the coffee of a very nice brown color, but not black (which - would denote that it was burnt, and impart a bitter flavor); grind - it at home if possible, as you may then depend upon the quality; if - ground in any quantity, keep it in a jar hermetically sealed. To - make a pint, put two ounces into a stewpan, or small iron or tin - saucepan, which set dry upon a moderate fire, stirring the coffee - round with a wooden spoon continually until it is quite hot - through, but not in the least burnt; should the fire be very - fierce, warm it by degrees, taking it off every now and then until - hot (which would not be more than two minutes), when pour over a - pint of boiling water, cover close, and let it stand by the side of - the fire (but not to boil) for five minutes, when strain it through - a cloth or a piece of thick gauze, rinse out the stewpan, pour the - coffee (which will be quite clear) back into it, place it upon the - fire, and, when nearly boiling, serve with hot milk if for - breakfast, but with a drop of cold milk or cream if for dinner. - - To prove the simplicity of this mode of making coffee, I shall here - give a repetition of the receipt as it actually is: - -38. Put two ounces of ground coffee into a stewpan, which set upon the -fire, stirring the powder round with a spoon until quite hot, when pour -over a pint of boiling water; cover over closely for five minutes, when -pass it through a cloth, warm again, and serve.[1] - - The foregoing proportions would make coffee good enough for any - person, but more or less coffee could be used, if required; the - cloth through which it is passed should be immediately washed and - put by for the next occasion. A hundred cups of coffee could be - made as here directed in half an hour, by procuring a pan - sufficiently large, and using the proper proportions of coffee and - water, passing it afterwards through a large cloth or jelly-bag. - - -39. _Coffee, French fashion._--To a pint of coffee, made as before -directed, add a pint of boiling milk, warm both together until nearly -boiling, and serve. The French never use it any other way for breakfast. - - -40. _White Coffee, a new style._--Put two ounces of unground coffee, -slightly roasted, into a clean stewpan, which set upon a moderate fire, -slowly warming the coffee through, shaking the stewpan round every -half-minute; when very hot, which you will perceive by the smoke arising -from it, pour over half a pint of boiling water, cover the stewpan well, -and let it infuse by the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, then add -half a pint of boiling-hot milk, pass the coffee through a small fine -sieve into the coffee-pot or jug, and serve with white sugar-candy or -crystallized sugar; it is, as you will perceive, a great novelty, and an -agreeable change; but if by neglect you let the coffee get black, or the -least burnt, do not attempt to make use of it; it should only be -sufficiently charred to break easily in a mortar if required. - - -41. _Coffee, made with a filter._--To make a quart; first put a pint of -boiling water through the filter to warm it, which again pour away, then -put a quarter of a pound of ground coffee upon the filter, upon which -put the presser lightly, and the grating, pour over half a pint of -boiling water, let it drain three or four minutes, then pour over a pint -and a half more boiling water; when well passed through, pour it into a -clean stewpan, which set at the corner of the fire until a light scum -arises, but not boiling; pour it again through the filter, and when well -drained through, pour into the coffee-pot, and serve with hot milk, or a -little cream, separately. - - -42. _Another way, more economical._--Proceed as in the last, but -draining the coffee through once only, and serve, after which pour -another quart of boiling water over the coffee-grounds, which, when -drained through, reserve, and boil up for the next coffee you make, -using it instead of water, and an ounce less coffee. - - TEA is, without doubt, one of the most useful herbs ever introduced - into England, which was in the year of the fire of London, 1666: it - has replaced an unwholesome and heavy drink (ale) which used to be - partaken of previously, and has created habits of sobriety. It is - indigenous to China, Japan, and Siam, and consists of many - varieties, the proper mixing of which constitutes the great art of - a tea-dealer. It is exceedingly useful in many cases of sickness, - and particularly after having partaken of any liquor to excess, or - after extraordinary fatigue. When new, it is a narcotic; but when - old it has a different effect,[2] and in its native country is - never partaken of until a year old, and not then, unless - exceedingly desiccated. I cannot recommend you any one in - particular, as that depends on taste; but this I advise, that when - you have a kind to your liking, to keep to it. - - And now, my dear friend, without wishing in the least to offend - you, or attempting to aggravate your good nature, I must beg to - contradict your assertion made at the commencement of our - undertaking, where you say, respecting tea, of course I know how to - make it; you made it whilst staying at our house occasionally, and - Mr. B. found there was a great difference between it and mine. But - to tell you the truth respecting tea, I have a little secret of my - own, being a discovery which I made a short time ago by accident. - Whilst in the act of making tea, I had just put the dry tea in the - pot, when I heard a fearful scream up-stairs in the drawing-room; - rushing there, I found my little girl had had a severe fall in - reaching something from the chimney-piece, the stool upon which she - stood having upset: twenty minutes at least had elapsed before I - returned to my tea (which, being alone, I was in no particular - hurry for), when I found that the servant, thinking there was water - in the pot, and fearing the tea would be spoiled, put it into the - oven, which was rather hot; when she brought it to me, I was rather - annoyed, when all at once it struck me that the leaves being hot - through, the tea would not require so long to draw; I then filled - the teapot with boiling water, and in a minute afterwards had a - most delicious cup of tea, since which I have adopted the system - upon all occasions, and am now having made a small spirit-lamp to - warm the pot and leaves, as the oven is not always hot: it may, - however, be made hot in front of the fire, but not too close of - course. I gave the receipt to one of our neighbors, who actually - laughed at the idea, but never tried it, saying, "We cannot teach - anything to our grandmothers, and that what did for them would do - for us." Now what could you say to such people? why nothing, but - let them alone, as I shall do for the future. But you, my dear, I - know have better sense; proceed as I have directed, and you will - find it a great improvement. Put your tea in the pot a quarter of - an hour before ready for it, warming both tea and pot, fill with - boiling water, and leave it from three to five minutes to draw, - when it is quite ready. - - - CACAO was first known in Europe after the discovery of America, and - it retains its Indian name; of course, it was first used in Spain, - and did not come into use in England until much later; and we find - that there was imported into England, in the year 1694, about - 13,000 lbs. weight of it; at the present day there was, in 1848, - 410,000 lbs. It is a long fruit, about five to eight inches, and - three or four thick, which contains about thirty nuts: the tree - grows to only a few feet in height. - - In the course of my experiments, I have found that the shell is - almost as nutritious as the kernel, with less oily particles in it, - which, to many, are unpleasant. - - -43. _Chocolate._--Scrape two ounces of the cake, which put into a stew -or saucepan, with a gill of water, upon the fire, keeping it stirred -with a wooden spoon until rather thick, when work it quickly with the -spoon, stirring in half a pint of boiling milk by degrees; serve very -hot, with sugar separate. - - -44. _Chocolate made in the Italian method._--Procure a regular -chocolate-pot with a muller, the handle of which comes through the lid, -one might be procured at any brazier's, put in two ounces of chocolate -(scraped), over which by degrees pour a pint of boiling milk, put on the -lid, with the muller inside, which keep well moving, setting the pot -upon the fire, and when very hot and frothy, serve. - - -45. _Cocoa._--Put a teaspoonful and a half of canistered cocoa into a -cup, which fill by degrees with boiling milk, stir it until dissolved, -when it is ready to serve; sugar separately. - - - - -LETTER No. III - - -Oatlands Cottage, Jan. 20, 1849. - - DEAR HORTENSE,--I have inclosed the whole of the receipts which you - have sent me for the breakfasts, properly classified, having - omitted the cold meats (as you desired me) from this series, - thinking, as you do, they are more suited for the luncheon. To save - useless repetition, I have placed the receipts in numbers, by which - references can be easily made, and any dish appearing in the dinner - or luncheon series, but available for breakfast, can be directly - found. - - But one thing I remember when at your house was, that when the - remains of a joint were rather large, you used to put it upon a - side table, and let any one help themselves from it there; your - idea being, I believe, that very few persons liked to have a large - dish of meat before their eyes almost immediately after rising from - their beds, or at the first meal of the morning. Respecting the way - your table was laid out, to the best of my recollection, it was as - follows:--First the large table-cloth, over which was laid a small - napkin before each person, with cups and saucers for tea or coffee, - at choice, small plates for rolls, and a size larger for meat, - sausages, eggs, &c., a small knife and fork for each; the butter in - a pretty freezing butter-glass, just covered with clear spring - water, and garnished with a few sprigs of parsley or watercresses; - the cream in a small china cream-jug, and a larger jug containing - hot milk for coffee; orange marmalade in its original pot, - honeycomb, watercresses, and once a few nice young radishes, which - were excellent, although a little out of season; one day also dry - toast was served, another day buttered, the next muffins, then - crumpets, white and brown bread, and small rolls, thus making a - continual change, but all so small and inviting. I shall always, - when I have company, as you had then, arrange everything in the - same manner, especially now that I have your receipts down. But - when you are alone, you tell me, you never make any such display, - which of course would be ridiculous; still even then you vary, by - having either tea, coffee, or chocolate, which change I like as - well as you. I eat meat but occasionally, but Mr. L---- generally - likes a little broiled bacon, or boiled egg, things in themselves - very simple and pleasant to have upon the table. Yours, in haste, - -ELOISE. - - - - - - -EARLY LUNCHEONS. - - - - -LETTER - - - LETTER No. IV. - - - MY DEAR FRIEND,--I feel perfectly satisfied with the manner in - which you have classified my receipts respecting the breakfasts, - and must say I felt very much interested in looking over them; I am - confident they would prove interesting and instructive to any young - housekeeper; I hope, therefore, you will preserve the originals, as - I do not keep any copies, fearing they would confuse me by making - reference to them; so that, if at any future time I should make a - repetition in other series, you would be able to correct me, for I - am as willing as yourself that we should complete our work by going - through every series comprising meals of the day. - - The next meal, then, to breakfast, in the ordinary course of - events, is the luncheon. Although it is a meal we never touch - ourselves, I am aware many small families make it a regular one, so - our little journal would not be complete without some few remarks, - which I intend making as short and concise as possible. When we - were in business, our luncheons were comprised of any cold meats - which were cooked for previous dinners; if a joint of cold roast or - boiled meat, it requires to be nicely trimmed before making its - appearance at table, but reserving the trimmings for hash, if of - roast meat, or bubble-and-squeak, if salt beef, which is an - excellent method of disposing of the remainder of a joint to - advantage; if the joint happened to be cold veal, I used to send - for a plate of ham to serve with it, unless there was a piece of - bacon also left; if mutton, I used to dish up the leg with a pretty - little paper frill upon the knuckle, also trimming the joint - lightly, for you must be aware that, after four or five have dined - from a leg of mutton, its appearance becomes quite spoiled, and - looks blackish when cold. Pork I also serve the same; when parsley - was cheap, I always laid a few branches round it, which used, as my - visitors said, to make the meat look very refreshing and inviting. - Our only addition was sometimes the remainder of game, which at - that time used frequently to be presented to us--pheasants, - partridges, or grouse; as it would then have been very extravagant - to have purchased them, especially when they were so expensive. As - an accompaniment to the meat, I always kept two different sorts of - mixed pickles, good bread, butter, cheese, and a glass of excellent - table ale; or, if our guest was some bosom friend or good customer, - a bottle of sherry (not decantered), never any port, thinking that - more fit for the dinner-table. Such was my plan in the first five - years after my marriage: everything upon our table was of the first - quality, and every one used to admire the neatness with which the - table was laid out. - - My method now, when luncheon is required (as we do not dine until - half-past five o'clock, Mr. B. being engaged until four in the - city), I have the cloth laid at twelve, and lunch at half-past; and - that time being just after the nursery dinner, we generally have - some sort of pudding or tart, made at the same time with theirs. - For cold meat, I always serve that up which has been left from a - previous dinner, if any, or any remains of poultry, game, ham, or - tongue. When, however, we have six or eight friends from the - country at Christmas, I feel proud to show them my style of doing - things well and economically, for they are very intelligent people, - and can appreciate good living, though at home they really live too - plain for their incomes; but they say, "We do not understand how it - is that you make a nice little dish almost out of nothing." For - should I have the remnants of any poultry or game not very inviting - to the sight, I generally cut it up and show my cook how to hash it - in a variety of ways; and I always remark, that they never partake - of any cold meat whilst any of the hash remains. For the methods of - making various hashes of fowl, game, hare, rabbit, beef, mutton, as - also curries, minced veal and poached eggs, cold pies of game, - poultry, mutton, beefsteak, or pigeon, as also plain mutton - cutlets, steaks, and broiled bones, the whole of which may be - served for luncheon, I must refer you to the series of receipts - belonging to the dinner; any of these articles are placed in order - upon the table, with the pickle-stand, two different cruet-sauces, - orange marmalade, potatoes, butter, cheese, sherry and port wines. - This style of luncheon will no doubt surprise you, but I can assure - you it scarcely increases my expenditure, having the same number to - provide for daily, so that the luncheon is generally made up from - the remains of dinner, and the remains of luncheon will dine our - three servants at half-past one. In the summer, I introduce a few - dishes of fruit, and less meat; and when there are several ladies, - I often introduce some English-made wine, which once I used to make - myself, but which I can now buy cheaper. - - - - -THE NURSERY DINNER. - - - - -LETTER No. V - - - DEAR FRIEND,--Now here I must call your especial attention to the - way many people treat this department of domestic comfort, which is - often very slight and irregular. Now, for my part, I have made - quite a study of it, and could prove that health is always - dependent on the state of the digestive organs; and that, if you - should improperly treat young stomachs, by over or under supplying - their wants, or using them to ill-cooked food, you not only destroy - the functionary coating of the stomach, but also impede the - development of the intellect. It is, then, as much a science to - manage the food of children, as to cater for the palate of the - gourmet, and I shall always consider that good food is to the body - what education is to the mind. - - My plan of managing the nursery meals is as follows:--At eight - o'clock in the morning, which was my usual time, I used myself to - prepare that glutinous food upon which our ancestors and race were - first reared, rather unclassically denominated pap. My method was - very simple: - - -46.--Put two ounces of rusk, or tops and bottoms, in a small saucepan, -with just sufficient water to moisten them; set the saucepan upon the -fire until its contents are thoroughly warmed through; pour a little of -the water away, if too thin, pressing the rusk with a spoon; then add a -teaspoonful of brown sugar, and beat the whole with a spoon until quite -a pulp; it is then ready for use. - - I have seen some poor people in the country make it with a stale - piece of bread, previously well dried and lightly toasted before - the fire, and you could scarcely tell the difference from rusks; - and you must observe, that people in a country village cannot - always supply themselves with everything in the way of luxury; but - look at the greater part of those country urchins,--are they not a - real picture of health? for, after all, nothing is more - advantageous to a delicate child than country air and country food. - When Mr. B. and myself were staying at Boulogne for a few weeks, I - was astonished to hear that everybody used to put their children - out to nurse. I was so surprised, that I made every inquiry, and - found it literally true, that even respectable tradespeople sent - their children a mile or two in the country, some to the houses of - very poor people: I cannot say that I approve of such a style of - bringing up infants, but even there they seem as healthy and as - joyful as possible. I also found there something to be learned, and - that was, how to make French pap, which I think very nutritious, - but which I considered at the time rather heavy for our climate; - but having afterwards made a trial of it upon our little Henry, I - found him doing so extremely well, that I continued feeding him - upon it for nearly eight months, until he was old enough to eat - other food. The following is the receipt: - - -47.--Put a tablespoonful of flour into a pap saucepan, to which add by -degrees two gills of milk, mixing it into a very smooth batter with a -wooden spoon; place the saucepan upon the fire, let it boil ten minutes, -keeping it stirred the whole time, or it is liable to burn or become -brown, then add about half an ounce of sugar and a little salt, put it -into a basin, and it is ready for use. A little butter is also very good -in it. - - You will observe, that it is more difficult and troublesome to make - than our pap; but when used to it, you will expend no more time - over it; and, as the French people say, cooking is all pleasure and - no trouble. But what convinces me that it is more palatable and - nutritious is, that I have seen a very robust man make a hearty - dinner of two plates of it by introducing bread in it. I have no - doubt that our own hasty pudding was taken from it, for the use of - children of three or four years old, being thought too heavy for - infants. These long details may appear rather insignificant and - tedious to you, but I leave them to your good judgment, begging of - you to curtail my remarks should you think proper; but, although - you may consider that every person is acquainted with these - domestic habits, you would find upon inquiry that very many persons - neglect them almost entirely. Having written thus much upon the - food of infants, we must next consider the proper diet for children - of twelve months old, commencing with bread and milk. - - -48.--For which, cut about two ounces of any white bread into small thin -slices, which put into a small basin or a large breakfast cup, in a -little saucepan (only used for that purpose) have half a pint of milk, -which, when upon the point of boiling, pour over the bread; cover the -cup over five minutes, and it is ready for use. - - I much prefer this method to that of boiling the bread and milk - together. In first commencing to feed a child upon the above, I - always added a little sugar, which I withdrew by degrees, as I do - not like to accustom children to too much sweets, as it inclines - them when a little older to be always wanting or eating sweet - stuff, which often spoils the best set of teeth; and here let me - remark, that the finest fortune you can give to your children is - health, and as loving mothers, whilst we have them under our - control, it is our duty to study their little comforts, and direct - their first steps in life in the road of happiness. - - -49. _Porridge._--When children are delicate, porridge is often -preferable to bread and milk. Put two tablespoonfuls of Scotch grits or -oatmeal in the milk saucepan, which moisten with half a pint of milk; -let it boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, add a small piece of -butter and a little sugar, and it is ready for use. - - When my children were about eighteen months or two years old, I - used to give them a little tender meat, such as boiled mutton, and - broth, but in very small quantities, keeping still for the general - food the bread and milk and porridge; but now they are old enough - to eat anything wholesome (one being nine and the other ten years - of age), their meals are composed thus: - - -50.--Bread and milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which was -composed as follows throughout the week: roast mutton and apple pudding, -roast beef and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled mutton with -turnips, after which rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little -salt beef, with suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or -pease pudding; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea -(the receipts for which will be found in the series entitled Comforts -for Invalids). - - When in business, the first three years we could not afford to keep - a nursery, in fact, we had no room to spare; the children then used - to dine with us at one, but at a side-table with their nurse. - - -51.--They then had a little plain meat, cut small in their plates, with -potatoes, pieces of bread, and gravy, after which, three times a week, -plain rice, bread, or other plain pudding, or rhubarb or apple tart; -and, at five o'clock, their bread and milk again, previous to going to -bed. - - But if for people who could afford it, I should recommend the - following diet-table, for nurserymaid and all: - - -52.--First, about two pounds of mutton well-cooked, but with the real -gravy of the meat in it, which will require about one hour before a -moderate fire, dredge it ten minutes before being done; when taken up -and in the dish, sprinkle a little salt over the meat, and pour over -three or four spoonfuls of hot water to make a little light gravy. - - Many persons will, I am aware, quite disapprove of this system of - washing the meat: they would serve it as if it were for full-grown - people, but you well know what would do for children as well as - I--plain, simple, and wholesome food; I always carried out this - system, and I now make my cook do the same. - - -53.--Then the next day I would give them a small piece of mutton, plain -boiled, with turnips, and apple tart; or a few slices of roast beef, or -a small piece roasted on purpose, after which a very plain currant -pudding; or, occasionally, a little pickled pork, with pease pudding, or -roast pork, with baked apples, and now and then a little salt beef, but -very well boiled, with suet dumplings, and occasionally, for change, -either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings; in case of illness, and -with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-broth, -sago, gruel, panada, &c., for which refer to the receipts for invalids. - - Now the more I write the more I am convinced that, for the method - of preparing certain articles for the children's dinners, we must - refer to the kitchen department of receipts and receipts for - invalids, especially as regards broth, meat, puddings, &c., or - otherwise we should have so many repetitions; so that it would be - better, upon the completion of the journal, to make references, - either by numbers of receipt or page; it will be more intelligible, - and less confused. - - Many people would, perhaps, imagine that there is too much variety - of food for children; but it is quite the contrary, for change of - food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health, - but, of course, with children, those changes must be effected with - judgment, and their food administered in smaller quantities; but - you must observe when children are well brought up with regard to - their meals, they possess extraordinary organs of digestion, the - proof of which is that they require feeding oftener than a - full-grown person, and never appear to be tired of eating, thus, of - course, they do not require such quantities at a time. Having here - terminated my remarks upon the Nursery, I shall leave this scene of - romp and confusion, to walk on tip-toe to the sick-room door, and - carefully enter, without noise, into this mournful abode of human - suffering and captivity, in hopes that, by watching over their - diet, my small efforts may improve their comforts, which, by being - properly managed, may assist in their restoration to health. I - shall, therefore, proceed to give some receipts, entitled Comforts - for Invalids. - - Nothing is to me more painful than to see any food ill-prepared for - sick people, where the sense of taste is partially gone; everything - ordered by the doctors as food, should be cooked in the greatest - perfection, especially as everything they require is so very simple - and easily done, that it is unpardonable to do it badly, although I - am sorry to say that it is too often the case, even in many of our - first hospitals and other public establishments, where they have - provisions in abundance, and of the first quality. - - Perhaps you may fancy I am too severe upon that delicate subject, - but I can assure you that I have for years been in the habit of - visiting some of these institutions for the sick, and can therefore - speak with confidence. I have grieved often to see it, and have - wished that they would follow a system I would lay down, but there - are some people who would not change their style, however bad, for - a better one, for the world. - - Now I must here claim all your intelligence, for pointing out those - receipts the accomplishing of which is most plain, and will insure - success to those who may try to do them, and cause them to persuade - others to follow their example. I therefore inclose the following. - Yours, &c. - -HORTENSE. - - - - -COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS. - - -54. _Meat for Invalids._--The best meat as food for invalids is, in -fact, that which is principally used, mutton and beef, lamb, if not too -young (sweetbreads, I consider, ought oftener to be introduced), and -calves' feet or head, scalded and boiled until tender, are very -nutritious; chickens, pigeons, partridges, are also very inviting. All -the above-mentioned articles are easy of digestion, excepting perhaps -the beef, which may require to be gently stewed until tender, if for a -delicate stomach just ordered to take meat after a serious fit of -illness. - - -55. _Plain Mutton Broth for Invalids._--Get one pound of scrag of -mutton, break the bone with a chopper, without separating the meat, then -put it into a stewpan with three pints of water and a salt-spoonful of -salt; boil gently two hours, carefully removing all the scum and fat, -which is easily done by allowing it to simmer slowly by the side of the -fire; it will be by that time reduced to about one quart, and is then -ready to serve. This broth must not be expected to drink very palatable, -being deprived of vegetables and seasoning, being in fact more like a -beverage than a soup: at the commencement of convalescence more strength -may be given if ordered by the doctor, by reducing the original quantity -to one pint. This broth is often administered by a spoonful only at a -time. - - -56. _Seasoned Mutton Broth._--Put the same quantity of mutton and water -into your stewpan, add double the quantity of salt, and a quarter ditto -brown sugar, quarter of a middle-sized onion, very little celery, and -one ounce of turnip; set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil -draw it to the side; let it simmer gently two hours; skim off all the -scum and fat, and pass it through a sieve, and use it when required. -When finished, there ought to remain about a quart of broth; but if by -neglect it has boiled too fast, add more water, and set to boil for a -quarter of an hour longer. If the patient is getting better, his medical -man will probably order him to eat a little of the meat, or even -turnips, in which case serve them on a plate separately; should the meat -not be required by the patient, it is very excellent for a healthy -person, with a few spoonfuls of onions or caper sauce, or even plain. If -pearl-barley is required to be taken with the broth, put a tablespoonful -of it in with the water when you first put it upon the fire, the whole -will then be done together; if the barley is to be eaten by the patient, -take out the meat and vegetables, and skim off every spot of grease; but -if the barley is not required, pass the broth, as before, through a -sieve. - - -57. _Mutton Broth (with variations). With Vermicelli._--Having made your -broth, and passed it through a sieve, as before, put the meat and -vegetables upon a plate, and the broth back into the same stewpan; when -boiling, if about a quart, add one or two tablespoonfuls of vermicelli, -depending upon the strength of the patient's stomach; ten minutes' -boiling will be sufficient to cook vermicelli. - - -58. _With Rice._--One spoonful of best rice in the stewpan, with mutton -and water the same as the barley, as it is better for the rice to be in -pulp than underdone. - - -59. _With Semoulina._--Semoulina is very delicate and glutinous, and I -am quite confident that the faculty would approve of it after a trial or -two; it is good in any kind of broth or milk for invalids, of very easy -digestion, and having also the advantage of being tolerably cheap and -quickly cooked; proceed as directed for vermicelli. - - -60. _With Arrow-root._--After having passed your broth, place it again -into the stewpan to boil; when boiling, put two teaspoonfuls of -arrow-root into a cup, which mix smoothly with a gill of cold broth, or -half ditto of water; then pour it into your boiling broth, which keep -stirring with a spoon; let it simmer ten minutes, and it is ready for -use. - - -61. _Veal Broth (French method)._--The following is much recommended by -French physicians:--Put one pound of veal from knuckle, with but very -little of the bone, into a stewpan with three pints of water and a -salt-spoonful of salt, place it over the fire to boil; when boiling, -take off all the scum; then add a small cabbage-lettuce and a few sprigs -of chervil, if handy; let simmer slowly for two hours, it will then be -reduced to about a quart; pass it through a sieve, letting the meat -drain, and it is ready to serve. - - -62. _Another way, more palatable._--Take the same quantity of veal as -before, which cut into small dice (as you should cut all meat if -possible), put it into the stewpan, with a small pat of butter, half an -onion, about the same quantity of carrot and turnip, a little celery, -and a teaspoonful of salt; set the stewpan upon the fire, keeping the -contents stirred, for about ten minutes, until the bottom of the stewpan -is covered with a whitish glaze, then add three pints of hot water; let -the whole simmer one hour at the corner of the fire, skim well, pass it -through a sieve, and use when required. This broth is most palatable and -very digestible, but of course only to be given to the convalescent; it -may be served with vermicelli, rice, arrow-root, and semoulina, as -directed for mutton broth. - - -63. _Another very Refreshing and Strengthening Veal Broth._--Put two -pounds of knuckle of veal into a stewpan, with a calf's foot split, and -the bone taken out and chopped up, add three quarts of water, a -good-sized onion, one leek, a piece of parsnip, and two salt-spoonfuls -of salt (if allowed by the doctor, if not, the salt must be omitted), -set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil, skim, and let it -simmer at the corner of the fire four hours; twenty minutes before -passing, again skim off all the fat, and add ten large leaves of -sorrel, or twenty small, one cabbage-lettuce, and a handful of chervil, -and when done pass it through a sieve, when it is ready for use. This -broth is very cooling and nutritious when taken cold, as it is then -quite a jelly; vermicelli, rice, &c., may be added when served hot, and -the veal and calf's foot is very excellent, eaten with parsley-and-butter -or sharp sauce; but should the patient require any, it must be quite -plain, with a little of the broth and only the gelatinous part of the -foot. - -The above also makes an excellent dinner soup, and if put in a cool -place, would keep a week in winter and three days in summer. - - -64. _Soyer's new way of making Beef Tea._--Cut a pound of solid beef -into very small dice, which put into a stewpan, with a small pat of -butter, a clove, two button onions, and a salt-spoonful of salt, stir -the meat round over the fire for a few minutes, until it produces a thin -gravy, then add a quart of water, and let it simmer at the corner of the -fire for half an hour, skimming off every particle of fat, when done -pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing -broth through a cloth, as it frequently quite spoils its flavor. - -The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables, -salt, and clove; the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out -in skimming, pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served in it if -required. - - -65. _Real Essence of Beef._--Take one pound of solid beef from the rump, -a steak would be the best, cut it into thin slices, which lay upon a -thin trencher, and scrape quite fine with a large and sharp knife (as -quickly as possible, or the juice of the meat would partially soak into -the wood, your meat thus losing much of its strengthening quality), when -like sausage-meat put it into a stewpan or saucepan, and stir over the -fire five or ten minutes, until thoroughly warmed through, then add a -pint of water, cover the stewpan as tightly as possible, and let it -remain close to the fire or in a warm oven for twenty minutes, then pass -it through a sieve, pressing the meat with a spoon to extract all the -essence. - -I beg to observe that here you have the real juice of the meat; but if -wanted stronger, put only half instead of one pint of water; seasoning -may be introduced, that is, a little salt, sugar, and cloves, but no -vegetables, as they would not have time to cook, thus leaving a raw, bad -flavor. - - -66. _Pure Osmazome, or Essence of Meat._--Take two pounds of the flesh -of any animal or bird (the older the better for obtaining the true -flavor), as free from sinew as possible, and mince it well; place it in -a Florence oil-flask, and cork it; put this in a saucepan filled with -cold water, leaving the neck uncovered; place it on the side of the fire -until the water arrives at 160 deg. Fahr., at which temperature it must -remain for twenty minutes; then remove it, and strain the contents -through a tammie, pressing the meat gently with a spoon; should it -require to be kept for some time, put the liquor in a basin or cup, -which place in the saucepan; subject it to a boiling heat until it is -reduced to a consistency like treacle, removing the scum; this, when -cold, will become solid, and will keep for any number of years. Osmazome -is known under various names in different cookery books, as "fumet, -essence," &c., but which are obtained in a different way, which causes -the gelatine to be produced with the osmazome; but, by the above plan, -it is left in the meat, and the osmazome, with a small quantity of the -albumen, is extracted, and the albumen is afterwards removed as the -scum. - - -67. _Chicken Broth._--Put half a raw chicken into a stewpan, with a -quart of water, a little leek and celery, with a salt-spoonful of salt, -and a few sprigs of parsley (if allowed), set the stewpan upon the fire; -when boiling, skim well, and let simmer upon the corner for one hour; -pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use. - -The chicken would eat very nice with a little maitre d'hotel sauce, or -any other from that series would do for the parlor, that is, when the -patient is not allowed to eat it. - -For a change, chicken-broth in the following way is very nutritious; -that is, after having passed the broth through a sieve, pour it back -again into the stewpan, which place over the fire; moisten a teaspoonful -of flour in a cup with a little cold broth or water, and when quite -smooth pour it into the broth whilst boiling, stirring quickly, let -simmer a quarter of an hour, and it is ready. Mutton or veal-broth may -also be varied the same. - - -68. _Eel Broth, very strengthening._--Take a small eel, which skin as -described, and wash well, then cut into slices, which put into a small -saucepan, just covered with water, add a little salt, a few sprigs of -parsley, two button onions, and a clove; let it simmer very gently until -the eels are tender, when skim off all the fat, pass the broth through a -very fine sieve into a cup: it is then ready to serve when required, but -a spoonful only should be taken at a time. - -A patient is sometimes allowed to take part of the fish, which being so -much boiled, constitutes a lighter food than eels are in general; a -little melted butter and parsley might be served with them. - - -69. _Lait de Poule, French remedy for colds._--May be made from any of -the foregoing broths, and for colds is excellent. Break a fresh egg, -separate the white from the yolk, put the yolk in a basin, with a -quarter of a gill of good cream or milk, which mix well with a spoon, -have half a pint of broth boiling, which pour gradually over the egg and -cream, mixing it (as you pour the broth) with a wooden spoon; it is then -ready, and ought to be taken when going to bed, if only for a cold. - - -70. _Sweet Lait de Poule._--This is also reckoned very good for a cold. -Put two yolks of eggs into a cup, with two teaspoonfuls of pounded -sugar, a few drops of orange-flower water, or the eighth part of the -rind of a fresh lemon grated, beat them well together for ten minutes, -then pour boiling water gradually over, keeping it stirred, until the -cup is nearly full. Drink this very hot when in bed; I can strongly -recommend it from experience. - - -71. _Riz au Lait, or Rice Milk_, is a very favorite food, or soup; in -France many persons make their suppers from it, even when in a state of -perfect health. Proceed as follows: wash a tablespoonful of good rice -in water, which drain and put into a stewpan, with a pint of milk, upon -the fire, and when boiling, place it at the corner to simmer, until the -rice is quite tender, but for invalids, must be in a pulp; sweeten with -a little sugar, and it is quite ready. - - -72. _Rice Milk seasoned._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but when the -rice is quite tender add an ounce of butter, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, -and a little salt, stir well together, and it is then ready; this must -neither be too thick nor too thin, but about the thickness of well-made -gruel; in France they always add a few drops of orange-flower water, but -that depends upon taste. These two last are very nutritious, especially -after a long illness. - - -73. _Vermicelli au Lait._--Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling add -sufficient vermicelli to make it about the thickness of the last -article; it may be served quite plain if required, or seasoned as for -the riz au lait, but omitting the orange-flower water. - - -74. _Semoulina au Lait._--Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling add a -tablespoonful of semoulina, stirring it gently, to prevent its becoming -lumpy; let it simmer twenty minutes, and serve either plain or seasoned, -as for the riz au lait. - - -75. _Tapioca au Lait._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but it will -require rather longer to simmer before the tapioca is tender; and, by -way of change, add a little grated lemon-peel, or a glass of white wine, -if allowed by the doctor, or season as for the last. - - -76. _Arrow-root._--Put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root, which mix -gradually with enough water or milk, stirring it with a spoon, let it -boil a few minutes, and if made with milk, add only a little butter, -sugar, and salt, or serve plain; but if made with water, add the eighth -part of the rind of a fresh lemon to boil with it; when done add a glass -of port or sherry, sugar, a little salt, and a small piece of butter, -unless prohibited. - - -77. _Gruel._--Put two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal or prepared groats into -a stewpan, and by degrees add a pint of water, mixing smoothly with a -wooden spoon, place it upon the fire, keeping it well stirred, until it -has boiled a couple of minutes, when pour it into a basin, add half a -salt-spoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of brown sugar, and two ounces -of butter, the latter especially, if for a cold in the chest, even more -than that quantity, if the stomach is strong enough to bear it. - -Gruel when properly made ought to adhere rather thickly to the back of -the spoon, but not to be pasty; it ought, likewise, to be eaten directly -it is made, or it becomes thick and unpleasant to eat; if required -plain, omit all the seasoning; it might also be made of milk. - - -78. _Gruel from Scotch Groats._--Proceed as above, but adding rather -more water, and boiling a few minutes longer; many people prefer eating -it with the rough groats in it, but if objectionable, place a small -clean sieve over the basin you intend serving it in, pass the gruel -through, and season as in the last. Some people add spirits or wine; but -that I should never recommend any one to do, unless by the doctor's -orders, and that would be but very seldom, especially as regards -spirits. - - -79. _Sago Gruel._--Put two tablespoonfuls of sago into a small saucepan, -which moisten gradually with a pint of cold water, set it over a slow -fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather thickish and clear, -similar to a jelly, then add a little grated nutmeg and sugar according -to taste, and serve; half a pat of butter might also be added with the -sugar, or it might be made with new milk, and a little salt added, and a -glass of wine in either case makes it more palatable. - - -80. _Arrow-root, Transparent Jelly._--Put a good teaspoonful of -arrow-root into a basin, which mix smoothly with two spoonfuls of water, -then add enough boiling water to make it about the consistency of -starch, stirring all the time, pour it into a stewpan, and stir over the -fire until it has boiled two minutes; add a little cream, a small glass -of wine, and a little sugar, and serve. - - -81. _French Panada, for aged people, invalids, and children._--Break a -stale penny roll into a saucepan, in which pour just sufficient water to -cover the bread, stir well over the fire, allowing it to boil five -minutes, then add half a teaspoonful of salt, and two ounces of fresh -butter, mix them, and take from the fire; have one yolk of egg well -beaten, with two tablespoonfuls of milk (if handy) or water, which pour -into the panada, stirring very quickly for half a minute, it is then -ready to pour into a basin and serve. Any common bread would do for -panada, but would not eat so light as when made from a roll. - -I knew a very aged lady in France who accustomed herself to eat a basin -of panada every night, a few minutes previous to going to bed, for a -period of eighteen years, which will prove that, although very -substantial in appearance, it must be very easily digested. - -Panada ought to be rather thicker than gruel, and may likewise be made -of milk, but water is preferable, especially when for bilious people. - - -82. _Barley Water._--Put half a gallon of water into a very clean -saucepan, with two ounces of clean (but unwashed) pearl barley, when -boiling, carefully skim it with a tablespoon, and add half the rind of a -small lemon, let it boil until the barley is quite tender; sweeten with -half an ounce of white sugar, strain it through a fine hair sieve, and -use when required. The juice of half a lemon in some cases may also be -introduced. - - -83. _Rice Water._--Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with a -handful of clean rice (but not washed), place it upon the fire, and let -boil gently until the rice is quite in a pulp, then pass it through a -hair sieve into a jug, pressing as much of the rice through as possible, -and when getting cold, sweeten moderately with honey, which will make it -very palatable; it should be drunk lukewarm. - - -84. _A New Drink._--Put half a gallon of water upon the fire, and when -boiling, have ready four pippin apples (quite ripe), cut each apple into -eight slices, without peeling them, throw them into the water, which -keep boiling until the apples are quite soft, pass the water through a -sieve, pressing the apples gently against the side of the sieve, but not -rubbing them through, add enough honey to make it a little sweetish, and -drink lukewarm. - -Two apples thrown into the rice-water and boiled the same would be a -great improvement. People in good health would much enjoy such drink, -during the summer especially; as also would poor people in the country, -where apples are plentiful. Any kind of apples would suit, and brown -sugar instead of honey, or even no sugar at all. - - -85. _Cooling Drink._--Bake four or six apples, without peeling them; -when done and quite hot, put them into a jug, and pour over three pints -of boiling water; cover the jug over with paper, and when cold it is -ready for use; a spoonful of honey or brown sugar added makes it very -palatable. - - -86. _Almond Water._--Put five ounces of sweet and two of bitter almonds -into a saucepan, with a pint of hot water, set them upon the fire, and, -when boiling, strain them upon a sieve, take off their skins, and set -them in spring water to cool, then dry them upon a cloth, pound them in -a mortar until very fine, adding a few drops of water occasionally, to -prevent their becoming oily, set a pint of syrup to boil, when throw in -the mashed almonds; boil together a minute, then set it at the corner to -simmer for a quarter of an hour; it is then ready to pass through a fine -sieve for use. When required, add any quantity of cold water you please -to make it palatable, according to taste or direction. - - -87. _Barley Lemonade._--Put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a small -stewpan, with half a pint of water, which boil about ten minutes, or -until forming a thickish syrup; then add the rind of a fresh lemon and -the pulp of two; let it boil two minutes longer, when add two quarts of -barley-water, from which you have omitted the sugar and lemon; boil five -minutes longer, pass it through a hair sieve into a jug, which cover -with paper, making a hole in the centre to let the heat through; when -cold, it is ready for use; if put cold into a bottle and well corked -down, it would keep good several days. - -_Barley Orangeade_ is made the same, substituting the rind and juice of -oranges; the juice of a lemon, in addition, is an improvement, when -taken as a refreshing beverage. - - -88. _A Refreshing Beverage._--Slice two oranges and one lemon, which put -into a jug, with two ounces of sugarcandy, over which pour one quart of -boiling water; stir it occasionally until cold, when drink it a little -at a time, as often as ordered by the medical attendant. This drink is -also very excellent for persons in health, especially in warm weather. - - -89. _Raspberry Vinegar Beverage._--Put two tablespoonfuls of raspberry -vinegar into a cup, over which pour half a pint of boiling water; when -cold, use it as you may be instructed or when necessary; any kind of -fruit syrup would answer the same purpose, and be equally as good, that -is, currants, cherries, strawberries, mulberries, &c. - - -90. _A very Strengthening Drink._--Put a teacupful of pearl-barley into -a saucepan, with three pints of cold water, the rind of a lemon and a -small piece of cinnamon; boil the whole very gently until the barley -becomes tender, when strain it through a fine sieve, and sweeten with a -spoonful of treacle: if treacle should be objectionable, honey or sugar -will do. - - -91. _Fresh Fruit Water._--Fresh fruits, when in season, are very -preferable to syrups, which are but seldom well made, except at some of -the first confectioners or Italian warehouses. - -Pick a bottle of fresh raspberries or strawberries, whichever you may -require, rub them through a sieve into a basin, which mix well with half -a pint of syrup, the juice of a lemon, and a quart of spring water; pass -it through a fine hair sieve, and put it by in a jug for use; both the -syrup and water may either be increased or diminished according to -taste. - -Red or white currant waters are made precisely the same, only omitting -the lemon, the currants themselves being sufficiently sharp. - - -92. _Cherry Draught._--Choose a pound of good fleshy cherries, from -which take the stalk and stones, have a pint of syrup boiling, into -which throw them, to boil as fast as possible for ten minutes, then take -them from the fire, and add a good wine-glassful of Madeira or sherry, -and a quart of boiling water; put it into a jug, with a cup over; when -cold, pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use: the wine may be -omitted if not required. A drink of the same description may likewise be -made from mulberries, but then a little lemon-juice must be added. - - -93. _Arrow-root Water._--Put half a gallon of water to boil with two -apples, the same as in No. 84, with the addition of a stick of cinnamon; -let the whole boil half an hour, then mix two large spoonfuls of -arrow-root with half a pint of cold water, very smoothly, and pour it -into the boiling water: let the whole boil ten minutes, and pass it -through a sieve; when cold, it will drink light and thickish. - - -94. _French Herb Broth._--This is a very favorite beverage in France, as -well with people in a state of health as with invalids, especially in -the spring, when the herbs are young and green. Put a quart of water to -boil, but have previously prepared about forty leaves of sorrel, a -cabbage-lettuce, and ten sprigs of chervil, the whole well washed; when -the water is boiling, throw in the above, with the addition of a -teaspoonful of salt and half an ounce of fresh butter; cover your -saucepan close, and let them simmer a few minutes, then pass it through -a sieve or colander. This is to be drunk cold, especially in the spring -of the year, after the change from winter. I generally drink about a -quart per day for a week, at that time; but if for sick people, it must -be made less strong of herbs, and taken a little warm. To prove that it -is wholesome, we have only to refer to the instinct which teaches dogs -to eat grass at that season of the year. I do not pretend to say that it -would suit persons in every malady, because the doctors are to decide -upon the food and beverage of their patients, and study its changes as -well as change their medicines. - - -95. _Dry Plum Beverage._--Put a quart of water in a saucepan upon the -fire, and, when boiling, throw in twelve fresh dry French plums, and let -them boil twenty minutes, then pour them in a basin with the liquor to -cool; when cold, take out the plums, which put into a basin; add two -tablespoonfuls of brown sugar and a very small quantity of port wine. -They are excellent to eat, and the liquor to drink. - - -96. _Figs and Apple Beverage._--Have two quarts of water boiling, into -which throw six fresh dry figs, previously opened, and two apples, -previously cut into six or eight pieces each; let the whole boil -together twenty minutes, then pour them together into a basin to cool, -then pass through a sieve; drain the figs, which will be also good to -eat. - - -97. _Stewed Plums._--Put twelve French plums in a stewpan, with a -spoonful of brown sugar, a gill of water, a little cinnamon, and some -thin rind of a lemon; let them stew twenty minutes, then pour them in a -basin until cold, take them from their syrup and eat them dry. They are -sometimes stewed in wine and water, either port, sherry, or claret. - - -98. _Baked Apples_ are very much used by invalids: have a common yellow -dish, such as you frequently see in farmhouses, into which put about -twelve apples (previously well wiped) and about a gill of water, and put -them in a hot oven for half an hour, or rather more should the apples be -large; when well done, take them out to get cold upon the dish, and eat -them cold, either with powdered lump or moist sugar. - - -99. _Cooling Lemonade._--Put a quart of water in a stewpan to boil, into -which put two moist dried figs, each split in two; let it boil a quarter -of an hour, then have ready the peel of a lemon, taken off rather -thickly, and the half of the lemon cut in thin slices; throw them into -the stewpan and boil two minutes longer; then pour it into a jug, which -cover closely with paper until cold, then pass it through a sieve: add a -teaspoonful of honey, and it is ready for use. - - -100. _Imperial, a cooling Drink for the Spring._--Two ounces of cream of -tartar, two lemons, juice and peel, four ounces of sugar; place in a -stone jug, and pour about six quarts of boiling water; allow it to get -cold, and bottle for use; or, instead of sugar, add three tablespoonfuls -of raspberry vinegar, and six ounces of honey. This is excellent -aerated-like soda water. Essence of ratafia, or any other, may be added, -with about half a pint of pure spirit at proof, for those accustomed to -spirits. - - -101. _Orangeade._--Proceed as for lemonade, but using the whole of the -orange, a little of the peel included, sweetening with sugar candy, and -adding a teaspoonful of arrow-root mixed with a little cold water, which -pour into the boiling liquid at the same time you put in the orange. The -arrow-root makes it very delicate. - - -102. _Toast and Water._--The ease and simplicity of making this popular -drink is probably the cause of its not being well made one time in ten, -that is, in private families; the bread is too much or too little done, -or there is too much or not half enough water, or more or less bread; I -venture to say that if any person would take the trouble to go from -house to house, where there are patients, and taste toast and water at -each, they would not find two of the same flavor, and perhaps not any of -it properly made. To make it to perfection, proceed as follows: cut a -piece of crusty bread, about a quarter of a pound in weight, place it -upon a toasting-fork, and hold it about six inches from the fire; turn -it often, and keep moving it gently until of a light yellow color, then -place it nearer the fire, and when of a good brown chocolate color, put -it into a jug, and pour three pints of boiling water over; cover the jug -until cold, then strain it into a clean jug, and it is ready for use: -never leave the toast in it, for in summer it would cause fermentation -in a short time. I would almost venture that such toast and water as I -have described would keep good a considerable time in bottles. - -The idea that bread must be burnt black to make toast and water is quite -a popular delusion, for nothing nourishing could come from it: if your -house was burnt to ashes, it would be valueless; and the same with burnt -bread, which merely makes the water black, but the nutriment of the -bread, intended to relieve the chest, has evaporated in smoke by being -burnt. - - - - -PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS. - - -103. _Apple and Rice._--Boil half an ounce of Carolina rice in a gill of -milk until very tender, then add a very small piece of butter, sugar, a -little cinnamon, and a grain of salt; then peel, core, and slice a -middling-sized apple, which put into a stewpan, with a small piece of -butter, a little sugar, and a drop of water, and stew it until tender; -when done, put the apple in a small tart-dish, mix an egg with the rice, -which pour over the apple, and bake ten minutes in a moderate oven; it -may also be made quite plain, if preferred. - - -104. _Custard Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a small piece of -lemon-peel and half a bay-leaf, for three minutes; then pour these on to -three eggs, mix it with one ounce of sugar well together, and pour it -into a buttered mould: steam it twenty-five minutes in a stewpan with -some water (see No. 112), turn out on a plate and serve. - - -105. _Rice Puddings._--Wash well two ounces of rice in some water, -strain, then put it into a pint and a half of boiling milk, with a small -piece of lemon-peel, cinnamon, and half a bay-leaf, tied together; let -it boil gently, stirring it occasionally, until quite tender; then put -to it one ounce of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of -sugar, and two eggs; pour it into a buttered tart-dish, and bake it half -an hour. - - -106. _Macaroni Pudding._--Blanch two ounces of Naples macaroni in some -water for eight or ten minutes; strain it, add it to one pint of boiling -milk, in which you have previously boiled a piece of lemon-peel, -cinnamon, and one ounce of butter; when the macaroni is quite tender, -add two eggs and sugar enough to sweeten it: steam it one hour in a -stewpan, in a buttered tart-dish. - - -107. _Vermicelli Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of -lemon-peel, half a bay-leaf, and a piece of cinnamon, then add one ounce -of vermicelli; when reduced to half, add two eggs, and a little sugar; -pour these in a buttered mould, and steam it half an hour. - - -108. _Tapioca Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of -lemon-peel and a little cinnamon; then add two ounces of tapioca; reduce -to half; add two eggs, and one ounce of butter; pour these in a buttered -mould, and steam half an hour. - - -109. _Bread Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of cinnamon -and lemon-peel; pour it on two ounces of bread-crumbs; then add two -eggs, half an ounce of currants, and a little sugar: steam it in a -buttered mould for one hour. - - -110. _Cabinet Pudding._--Boil one pint of milk, with a piece of -lemon-peel, pour it on one ounce of sponge biscuit, let it soak half an -hour, then add three eggs, half an ounce of currants, and very little -sugar: steam it in a buttered mould, lined with raisins, one hour. - - -111. _Bread and Butter Pudding._--Butter a tart-dish well and sprinkle -some currants all round it, then lay in a few slices of bread and -butter; boil one pint of milk, pour it on two eggs well whipped, and -then on the bread and butter; bake it in a hot oven for half an hour. - - -112. _A Small Bread Pudding._--Cut an ounce of the crumb of bread into -thin slices, with the least piece of butter spread over each, which -place in a small tart-dish; then break an egg into a cup with a -teaspoonful of sugar and a little powdered cinnamon, beat well; then add -about six tablespoonfuls of boiled milk, mix well together, pour over -the bread, and bake in a slow oven, or steam it, if preferred, by -standing the dish in a stewpan containing about half a pint of water, -that is, the water should be about half way up to the rim of the dish; -set the stewpan (covered close) upon the fire, and let it slowly boil -about ten minutes or longer, until the pudding is properly set, then -take the cover from the stewpan, which let remain a few minutes longer -upon the fire; then take out the pudding, wipe the dish, and serve. - - -_Fish for Invalids._--Slips, soles, flounders, whitings, and smelts are -the lightest of any fish, and upon that account more to be recommended -to invalids in a state of convalescence. - - -113. _Whiting, plain boiled._--Put two quarts of water into a small fish -kettle, with about an ounce of salt; when boiling, put in the whiting, -draw the kettle to the corner of the fire to keep it just simmering, and -no more; a whiting of the ordinary size would take about ten minutes; -when done, which you can tell by trying with the point of a knife -whether it leaves the bone easily, take it up carefully, and dish it -upon a clean napkin, with a few sprigs of parsley round; although the -parsley is of course useless as far as the stomach is concerned, nothing -can be more pleasing to an invalid than to see his meals carefully -cooked and invitingly served. - -At any time I prefer a whiting with the skin on, whether boiled, -grilled, or fried; a little butter just melted, with a pinch of salt, -and the least drop of lemon-juice added, is very excellent to eat as -sauce with them. Should you purchase your fish in the country, it will -of course require cleaning, by opening the belly and pulling out the -gills and interior; but never wash these fish, merely wipe them with a -cloth. - - -114. _Broiled Whiting._--Having cleaned your whiting, and wiped it -gently dry with a cloth, flour it all over lightly, rub the gridiron -over with a little oil, lay the whiting upon it, and put it over a clear -fire, but not too close, turn it carefully three or four times, and when -it feels firm to the touch of the finger, it is done; if a large one, it -will take about twenty minutes; sprinkle a little salt over, if -required, and serve with plain melted butter, with a few drops of -essence of anchovies in it. - - -115. _Sauted Whitings._--Put some fat or butter in a frying-pan, which -place over a clear but moderate fire; have your whiting floured as in -the last, and when the fat or butter is melted, lay it in the pan; let -it saute slowly until it is done, which try as in either of the last -two; when done, drain it upon a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and -serve. - -If fried, enveloped in bread-crumbs, dip the fish lightly into flour, -then egg it all over with a paste-brush, and dip in some very fine -bread-crumbs, and fry it rather longer, but do not let the fat get -black, or it will give the fish a black, heavy appearance, and quite -spoil the flavor. Fish fried in oil would have a much better appearance -than when fried in fat, but probably would be objectionable to a weak -stomach. They ought to be completely covered with the fat. - - -116. _Smelts_ are very delicate fish, but ought never to be plain -boiled; being confident of the good use they may be turned to as a diet -for the sick, I shall here give two receipts for dressing them very -plainly, yet still very palatable. Choose them rather large,--if so, two -would be sufficient for a meal,--having previously drawn and cleansed -them, put a gill of water into a small stewpan, with a little salt, a -saltspoonful of powdered sugar, and four small sprigs of parsley; when -boiling lay in your smelts, which let simmer five minutes, or more, if -larger than usual, keeping the stewpan well covered; then take them out -carefully, lay them upon a dish, and pour the broth over; both fish and -broth are excellent. They may be cooked the same way in the oven. - -Another way is to add a little arrow-root, mixed with a drop of cold -water, to the above, when half cooked; it makes it very soothing to the -chest. Be extremely careful not to let the fish or liquor burn at the -bottom of the stewpan; there should be about three parts of the quantity -of liquor when cooked as you first put in water, allowing one quarter to -evaporate whilst boiling. - - -117. _Broiled Smelts._--When cleansed and wiped dry with a cloth, dip -them lightly into flour, and put them upon a gridiron over a slow fire, -for five, or six minutes, turning them carefully when half done; serve -plain, or with a little sauce, if allowed, as many patients are -forbidden moist food. I can highly recommend any kind of white fish -cooked in this manner; and it is well known that nothing in the way of -food is more digestible than fish. - -Water souchet of flounders, soles, and slips may also be served to -invalids, by proceeding the same as above. - - -_Meat, Game, and Poultry,_ of every kind, for invalids, ought to be -served as free from fat as possible. - - -118. _A Mutton Chop._--Choose one from a lean loin of mutton, or if one -in the house rather fat cut the greater part of it off; your chop should -be about six ounces in weight, and cut off an equal thickness; lay it -upon a table, and beat it lightly with the flat part of your chopper, -then lay it upon a gridiron, over a good clear fire; season with a -little salt, if allowed, and turn it four or five times whilst broiling; -it will require about eight minutes over a good fire, but of course -longer over an indifferent one; if by pressing it with a knife it feels -firm, it is done; serve upon a very hot plate, for if partly cold, the -least fat would immediately set, and be very unpleasant, especially to a -person unwell. - - -119. _Plain Mutton Cutlet, from the Neck._--An invalid will frequently -be tired of a mutton chop; and for my own part I must say a cutlet is -far superior in flavor, and has a much neater appearance; cut off a rib -from the neck, of the same thickness as a mutton chop; cut away the skin -upon each side of the bone, to the chine, which chop off; trim away the -greater part of the fat, cut a piece at the end of the bone, which -scrape off, leaving about half an inch of the bone bare; then beat it -lightly with the flat of the chopper; season; broil and serve very hot, -as in the last. - - -120. _Stewed Chop or Cutlet._--Put it into a stewpan or small saucepan, -with a pint of water, and a little salt and sugar; let it stew as gently -as possible from an hour and a half to two hours, skim off all the scum -and fat, and the patient may partake of both chop and broth; if -seasoning is allowed, put a teaspoonful of pearl-barley, with a little -celery, leek, and turnip, cut up very small, into the stewpan with the -water, when you first put the chop on, and proceed as before; serve the -broth in a soup basin, with the chop in it; should the meat happen to be -tough, let it stew rather longer; the broth should be reduced to about -half a pint. - - -121. _Beef, Rump Steak._--The tenderest part of the rump should be -selected, about half a pound, not cut too thick, and very even; place it -upon your gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it frequently; when -done, sprinkle a little salt over; ten minutes would cook it thoroughly, -but if wanted underdone, as in many cases where the patient only sucks -the gravy, less time must be allowed. - - -122. _Stewed Beef._--Put the same quantity of beef as in the last into a -saucepan, with a quart of water, which place over the fire, and when -beginning to boil, well skim, then add a little celery, turnip, and -carrot, the whole weighing about an ounce, and cut very small, let stew -gently about three hours, by which time the broth will be reduced to one -quarter; skim all the fat off carefully; serve the meat upon a plate, -and the broth in a basin. - - -123. _Lamb Chops or Cutlets._--Proceed as just described for mutton, but -being more delicate, they will require but little more than half the -time to cook. - - -124. _Lambs' Feet_ are very nutritious; purchase them ready cleaned; lay -them ten minutes in boiling water, by doing which you will be able to -draw out the leg-bone with facility; then put them in a stewpan (two -would be sufficient), and pour over a pint of water with which you have -mixed smoothly a tablespoonful of flour, and half a teaspoonful of salt; -place them upon the fire, stirring frequently until boiling, when add a -small onion, with a celery, parsley, and parsnip; boil gently for two -hours, and when done, serve plain upon a plate, or with a little melted -butter and parsley poured over. By using a little white broth from any -meat instead of water, you make a delicious soft soup, which may be -partaken of freely. - -Calves' feet are dressed in the same manner, but using a double -proportion of everything, and stewing them double the time; they are -served precisely the same. - - - - -POULTRY FOR INVALIDS. - - -125. _Roast Chicken._--Procure a nice plump chicken, which draw and -truss, and cut the sinews; pass the spit through under the skewer as -usual, and set it down before a clear fire; after being there five -minutes, have ready a pat of butter, in the bowl of a wooden spoon, with -which rub the chicken all over; if the fire is too fierce, put it back a -short distance, that it may roast of a yellowish-brown color; when a -light smoke arises from the chicken, which will be in about twenty -minutes from the time it was put down, it is done; but to be quite sure -whether a bird is done, the better way is to press it lightly, with your -finger and thumb; should it feel quite set, it is sufficiently cooked. - -126. _Boiled Chicken._--Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with -a saltspoonful of salt, and two ounces of butter; when boiling, lay in -the chicken, which keep gently simmering for twenty minutes, when it -will be done. - -By adding a few vegetables of each description to the water, and -straining it when you take out the chicken, you have a very excellent -broth either for the sick or healthy, especially after skimming off the -fat you add a little vermicelli, which must be boiled in it five -minutes. - -As it is very improbable that a sick person would eat the whole of a -chicken at once, I have annexed a few receipts, by which a chicken would -suffice for four meals. - -First, put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan, with half a pint of -light broth; let it boil gently until the rice is in pulp, then put in -the wing or leg of the previously-cooked chicken, which let remain to -warm about five minutes; should the rice be too dry, add a little more -broth; serve the fowl and rice together upon a hot plate. Secondly, if -wanted plain, set it in a stewpan, with a few spoonfuls of stock, and -let it warm gently. Thirdly, it may be folded in a sheet of paper -lightly oiled, and warmed very gently upon a gridiron. Or fourthly, -plain broiled upon a gridiron, and served with a little light gravy. - - -127. _Partridge._--Proceed in every manner to roast as just directed for -the chicken; a young one would require about ten minutes, or an old one -fifteen, but then the breast only ought to be eaten; whatever remains -may be served in either of the ways directed for chickens. - - -128. _Pigeons_ may be roasted the same as partridges, but would not -require so long. A pigeon may also be stewed as follows:--Put half a -pint of mutton-broth into a stewpan, with a pigeon trussed as for -boiling, let it stew gently twenty minutes, if young; both the pigeon -and broth ought to be partaken of. Pigeons may also be broiled, by -cutting them open from the bottom of the breast to the joint of the -wings, but not separating them; rub over with a little butter, broil -twenty minutes over a moderate fire, and serve with a little gravy. - - -129. _Pulled Fowl._--With the remainder of a roast or boiled fowl or -chicken you may make a very light dish, by pulling off all the flesh -with a fork, and putting it into a stewpan, then in another stewpan -place all the bones (previously broken small with a chopper), with a -little parsley, salt, sugar, and half a pint of water; let it boil -gently until the water has reduced to a gill, then strain it over the -flesh of the chicken in the other stewpan, which place over the fire -until quite hot, and serve; should it be too thin, a small piece of -butter and flour rubbed together may be added, and boiled a minute. Old -or young fowls may be used, as it is not always convenient to get a -young fowl, especially in the country, where everything must be turned -to account and properly used: you would proceed with an old fowl the -same as for a chicken, but stewing it three times as much, and adding -more water in proportion; it would be here impossible to name the exact -time required, as the fluctuation is so great, but by feeling the thigh -of the fowl with the finger and thumb, you may ascertain, for if done -sufficiently it will feel tender to the touch, and leave the bone with -ease. - - - - -CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE. - - - - -LETTER No. VI - - - DEAREST ELOISE,--I here inclose you the last receipt which I intend - to give you for invalids. You will, no doubt, fancy that my diet is - extravagant; but let me teach you that when you must pay the - doctor's bill, which I consider an extra and painful tax upon - humanity, it is ours and their duty to try to restore health as - soon as possible, which my receipts might, if well coupled with the - science of a medical man, cause a prompt restoration, and have the - desired effect of increasing the butcher's bill by diminishing that - of the doctor. But I must also tell you that I intend this part of - our little work, if ever published, to be useful to all classes of - society, and that, among those receipts, the rich as well as the - humble, may partake and benefit by them in selecting according to - their means and their requirements. I am confident that you will - agree with me that even here I have closely studied the rules of - economy. - - I shall therefore close the sick-room door to open the one of the - parlor, and to witness the merry faces of the million who have - abandoned their industrious occupations for the day, and partake, - in the family circle, their simple but substantial Sunday meal. I - always used to say, when in business, that he who works well - deserves to live well,--I do not mean to say extravagantly, but - that devoting one hour a day to their principal meal ought to be - classified as a matter of business in regard to economy. We, - therefore, must be very positive upon this important question, and - make them perceive that dining well once or twice a week is really - unworthy of such a civilized and wealthy country as ours, where - provisions cannot be excelled by any other, both in regard to - quantity and quality. Yours, etc. - -HORTENSE. - - - - - - -LETTER No. VII - - - MY DEAR MRS. B.--Your observation upon the way many people live in - this country is no doubt very correct, but do you not think that if - you were not quite so abrupt on the subject, we should probably be - more likely to succeed in bringing our friends round to your style - of management; of which, for my part, I very much approve. But as - it is a matter of importance, I should like you to describe in your - next communication what are the principal and most useful joints in - a family, and to discourse on them, in pointing out the good which - may be achieved, and the evils to be avoided. Ever yours, &c. - -ELOISE. - - - - - - -LETTER No. VIII - - - Many compliments to you, my dear Mrs. L. - - At your request I here inclose the list you require, and which will - show you how circumscribed the middle classes are in respect to the - variation of their meals, in the way of meat and manner of cooking - it. I do not disapprove of your idea in wishing me here to give a - series or list of those provisions; but, on the other hand, I must - tell you frankly my opinion, it being a subject which for some - years I have made a study, indeed quite a hobby. If I am wrong, let - any one who knows better correct me; you will allow I am always - open to conviction and improvement, no matter how trifling, which - often leads to an important one. - - I shall therefore name all joints of meat which, though numerous, - offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way, - and observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a - few which are considered the best. They are as follow: - - Those in beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side, - aitch-bone. - - In mutton--leg, saddle, haunch, loin. - - Lamb--fore-quarter and leg. - - Veal--fillet, loin. - - Pork--leg, sparerib, loin. - - Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because - generally used, although many of the other parts are equally as - good, as I shall prove to you, in the receipts which I shall write - for the dinner, what can be done in the way of made dishes out of - those parts which are rarely or never used in this country by the - middle classes, which will more clearly develope to you my ideas on - the subject Besides, there is this advantage, that if a small - tradesman were to follow these receipts, and buy every other time - he goes to the butcher what he now considers a second-class joint, - he would not only be conferring a public benefit, but also one on - himself, and be the means of diminishing the price of those now - considered the first class, which at the present moment bear too - high a price in proportion, but which his pride causes him to - purchase. - - To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over - the inclosed list, which contains all the joints that are cut from - beef, veal, mutton, lamb, pork, and you will find that ten of the - prime are in daily use to one of the other, and principally for a - want of the knowledge of cookery; leaving the science of cooking - our food to a fierce or slow fire, or plunging our expensive - provisions into an ocean of boiling water, which is thrown away, - after having absorbed a great portion of the succulence of the - meat. Try the receipt for the Pot-au-feu; taste the broth and eat - the meat, and tell me which plan you consider the best. Do not - think that I object to our plain joint, because, now and then, I am - rather partial to them; but why not manage to make use of the - broth, by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them, - instead of galloping them at a special railway-train speed? Were - the middle classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic - cookery of France, they would certainly live better and less - expensively than at present, very often, four or five different - little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large Sunday's - joint, instead of its appearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman - for several days cold, and often unsightly, and backed by a bottle - of variegated-colored pickles, made with pyroligneous acid, which - sets my teeth on edge merely in thinking of it, and balanced by a - steaming dish of potatoes, which, seen through the parlor window by - the customers in the shop, would make them think there was a grand - gastronomic festivity taking place at Mr. A.'s or B.'s, the - butterman or greengrocer; this may be excusable once or twice, on a - hot summer's day, with an inviting salad, seasoned with merely - salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, but the continual repetition of - that way of living in winter is, I consider, a domestic crime. - - You will, perhaps, say that, in large firms, where forty or fifty, - or more young men dine every day, or even in public establishments - still more numerous, many professed cooks would be required to - dress the dinner, if my plan was adopted; not at all, if the - kitchen is properly constructed: but in these establishments, - joints, of necessity, must be the principal viand, and there is - very little left; what there is, is consumed cold for supper; but - even there an amelioration might take place, although only a plain - joint, either boiled or roasted, roasted or boiled, which is - generally the yearly bill of fare, and so simple, yet seldom well - done, and often badly, which, in a large establishment, must create - great waste, and make bad food out of good meat, and that for want - of care or a little more knowledge, which may appear to you but a - trifling matter, but not so to thousands of poor old people, with - toothless gums and fatigued stomachs, made comfortable within walls - erected by the good feelings of government, or by public charity. I - have often thought, when visiting these establishments, that a - professed cook ought to be appointed, as well as a medical man, to - visit all such in the metropolis, not only to inspect the quality - of the provisions, but superintend the arrangements of the dietary - table, and see that the viands are properly cooked, and thus - correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the present day; I - am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such - institutions throughout the country, which, if well employed, would - feed a great part of the starving poor of the United Kingdom. The - same system ought to be adopted in all the provincial towns; and, - if it was in existence, we should not have to deplore such - lamentable scenes which we had latterly to witness at Tooting, - where, no doubt, many were to blame; for, by the calculation I have - made, the allowance, though rather limited, was amply large enough - to allow for good provisions, and leave sufficient remuneration for - any reasonable and not covetous man. Why should not these poor - children be watched over, and made as comfortable in every respect - as the wish of those who pay to support them require? besides, it - has an effect upon after generations; for upon the food at the - period of growth depends the nature of the mind at a more advanced - age, as well as the stature of the man. Do we not evince our care - to objects of the brute creation, and feed, with the greatest - attention, the race-horse? compare him with others of his species - not so humanely treated, and note the difference: so it is with the - human race; and I might almost say the prosperity of a country - depends upon the food of its youth. You will perhaps think that I - am rather sharp in my remarks, and probably longer than is - required, but still it will be gratifying to both of us, should we - find that these remarks prove beneficial to such establishments as - above-mentioned; and it is only by giving notoriety to these - important details, and being positive in exposing the truth, that - we can be believed and followed, and you must not mind displeasing - the few, if you are to be useful to the many. Forever, &c. - -HORTENSE. - - - - - - -LETTER No. IX - - - MY DEAR HORTENSE,--After the receipt of your last observations, - which, on first seeing, I thought too long, but after having read - them over again, I am convinced that I shall not be able to shorten - them; at all events, there is a great deal of truth in them, and, - as you justly say, they are the observations of a person who has - constantly studied domestic comfort and economy; I shall therefore - copy them in the journal just as you send them to me. Truly yours, - -ELOISE. - - - - - - -LETTER No. X - - - MY DEAR ELOISE,--I am glad to hear that you will not alter any of - my last copy sent, because I assure you I wrote with a full - conviction that I was right, and from facts which experience alone - can engrave on the memory; but, however, we will now proceed: but I - think it will be necessary to alter our original intention, namely, - in order to save any confusion, to class all the receipts for the - dinner together, and thus form a large bill of fare, and follow, on - a small plan, what M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, has done on a - large scale, in his 'Gastronomic Regenerator,' by which the most - inexperienced hands may easily provide a large or small dinner - adapted for all classes, without committing a blunder, and thus - make a selection from soups, different dishes of fish, and an - innumerable number of removes; entrees, roasts, savory dishes, - vegetables, sweets, dessert, &c., and having chosen one or two of - each series, and, on referring to the receipt, an idea of their - cost, within a few pence of the market-price, may be gained. - - Let me know, dear, by return of post, if you approve of my new - idea, as it is rather deviating from our original one; but observe, - that having so very distinctly given the Breakfast Receipts, and - also for Invalids, it will be more clearly understood than by - repeating the same over and over again, which would be unavoidable - if following our first proposition. Yours truly, in haste, - -HORTENSE. - - - - - - -LETTER No. XI - - - MY DEAR HORTENSE,--Never were you inspired by a better idea - respecting your new plan; it is so clearly explained, that I fancy - our labor is over; but I must tell you that, on the receipt of - your last, I wrote to M. Soyer, to inquire if he would object to - our taking a few hints from his "Kitchen at Home," which forms the - last part of his work. His answer was immediate, short, and as - follows: - - "DEAR MADAM,--It would be entirely deviating from the preface of my - 'Gastronomic Regenerator' to refuse you anything in my power; and - as your simple demand lies within that scope, you are quite welcome - to take a few hints, if you require them for your little work, from - the part entitled 'My Kitchen at Home.' - - "Wishing your exertions may be well appreciated, I am, dear madam, - most sincerely, your humble and devoted, - - "Reform Club. - -A. SOYER." - - - - As you have his book, you, no doubt, know to which part he alludes. - He says, in his preface, that he has made it a rule never to refuse - ladies anything in his power; so far he has kept his word with us: - so you may, dearest, if you require, make use of his offer. I shall - expect, by the next post, the commencement of the Dinner Receipts, - which I am confident you will make as simple and as short as - possible. With kindest regards, yours, - -ELOISE. - - - - - - -_Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, Frying, Sauteing, -Broiling._ - - -ROASTING being the most general in use, we will first describe it, -although not that which was first put in practice in cooking, it being -evidently an improvement on broiling: we can easily understand how, in -the early primitive times, man, finding that his food got covered with -the ashes with which he cooked his meat, he would invent a species of -grate upon which he could raise the fire, and cook his meat before it: -this primitive mode of cooking has lasted, in many countries, up to the -present day, and even in London to within a few years; for I remember -seeing, in the old Goldsmith's Hall, a fire-place, consisting of stages, -on which was laid the wood, and when the meat, &c., was spitted and -arranged before it, the wood was lighted, and a man turned the spits. -(It was, no doubt, from arranging the wood thus in stages that the name -of range was derived.) In many noblemen's castles and ecclesiastical -establishments, dogs were kept to turn the spit, from whence we have -those of the name of turnspit; whilst in others, where there happened to -be a person of a mechanical turn of mind, they applied a water-wheel to -the purpose, and the water from it formed a stream in the kitchen, which -served as a reservoir for live fish. Different opinions exist as to the -mode and time required for roasting, but this must all depend upon the -nature of the fire and the meat. In the Receipts will be found the time -which each requires. My plan is to make up as large a fire as the nature -of the grate will allow, because I can place my joint near or not, as -may be required, and thus obtain every degree of heat. - - -BAKING is a branch of the art of cooking which, although one of the -oldest, is the least understood. (As I shall have to refer to this -subject again, I will give the reason why in a future letter.) It is -performed in various kinds of air-tight chambers, called ovens, the best -of which have the same form as in the time of the Egyptians. Previous to -the art of baking being practised, boiled pulse and corn were the food -of the people; even Rome contained no bakers until near six hundred -years after it was founded. Of late years, great improvements have been -made in the construction of ovens for baking of meat, called roasting -ovens, which cause great economy in the expenditure of fuel; and, in -large public establishments, where a number of the same kind of joints -are required, it is the best plan of cooking. In the Receipts will be -found the time required by each for baking, but, in a general way, for -meat, hot ovens are the best; for poultry, not so hot as meat; and -pastry, according to its kind. In using dishes or utensils for the oven, -they ought, if of metal, to be of galvanized iron, and separate ones for -meat and fish. - - -BOILING is the next branch of the art which is of the most importance -and appears the most simple, yet, at the same time, the most difficult, -and is a subject upon which, if I were to dilate, would occupy a good -quarto volume; it is one of those easy things which it is supposed -everybody can do, and therefore no attention is paid to it, and it is -generally done badly. According to the way in which it is done, meat may -be rendered hard and tough or tender, lose or retain its flavor or -nourishment; great difference of opinion exists amongst medical men -which are the easiest of digestion--roasted or boiled meats. I say it is -a subject quite impossible to decide, as it must depend upon the -different constitutions and climate; for we might as well say that the -food of the Esquimaux is adapted for the native of Italy. - - -STEWING ought to be the best understood, on account of its economy; -pieces of coarse meat, subjected to stewing, if properly done, become -tender, as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved; it should be -done slowly, the pan partly uncovered, and frequently skimmed. Great -cleanliness should be observed in all the vessels used for stewing. - - -BRAISING is the next and most important part of the art of cooking, and, -like the saute, belongs entirely to the French school, from whom it -takes its name, _braise_ being the remains of wood burnt in the oven, or -live charcoal: and as this plan of cookery requires the action of the -fire under and over the braising-pan, which is air-tight, in order that -the aromatic flavor arising from its contents may be imbibed by the meat -or poultry, and give it that succulence so much esteemed by epicures. -The braise is put on the cover, which, in some cases, is made deep on -purpose to hold it. Its origin is stated to be owing to a gastronomic -society which was formerly in existence in Paris, whose object was to -benefit and improve the art of cookery, and who offered a reward of a -silver gridiron to any culinary artist who would discover a new mode of -dressing a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no doubt, intended to be -used, yet a young artist named La Gacque, warmed by the offer, directed -his imagination to quite a different mode, and used the pan instead of -the gridiron, and thus composed the braise, which was unanimously -approved of by that scientific, gastronomic, and epicurean body, who -awarded him the prize. The chief art in braising is to do it slowly, -taking care that the ingredients are well-proportioned, receipts for -which will be found in their proper place. - - -FRYING.--Of all the apparently simple modes of cookery there is none -more so than that of frying, but yet how rare to meet with it done -properly. I believe it is to be attributed, in a great measure, to the -idea that, to do it well is expensive. I have therefore made a series of -experiments upon a plan such as should be followed in every private -house, and I am convinced that to do it well is cheaper than doing it -badly; but, in the first place, we ought to consider, What is frying? It -is the insertion of any substance into boiling oil, or grease, by which -the surface of that substance becomes carbonized, and the heat which -effects this object is sufficient to solidify the albumen and gelatine, -or, more commonly speaking, cooked; to do this properly, the substance -ought to be covered by the liquid, so that the heat acts all over it at -the same time, or otherwise the osmazome, or gravy, will be dried out of -that part which is not covered, and the succulence and flavor of the -viand lost; or, should the liquid not be of that degree of heat which -would carbonize the surface on the moment of its immersion, it would -then enter into the substance, render it greasy, and destroy its flavor, -which no degree of heat afterwards could remedy. Those articles which -are fried are generally those which have a coating of materials (such as -bread-crumbs and batter) which are quickly carbonized, and thus form a -crust which prevents the grease penetrating, concentrates the liquids, -and preserves the flavor of the article; the carbonization once -effected, the fire should be immediately moderated, particularly if the -article is large, in order that the interior may become properly -solidified. All articles properly fried are generally much liked, as -they are agreeable to the eye, and afford a pleasing variety. - -The plan that I recommend you to adopt is, to obtain an iron or copper -pan long enough for a good-sized sole, and 6 to 8 inches deep, and fill -three to four inches of it with fat--the skimmings of the stock-pot, or, -if that should not be sufficient, the kidney-fat of beef, cut up, -melted, and strained. In wealthy establishments, lard, and, in some, -bacon-fat melted is used, and, for some articles, olive oil, which can -only be used once; but in our less luxurious homes I think the above is -sufficient, besides, it has the advantage of not requiring that great -attention which the other does. When you have the fat on, before -immersing the substance you intend to fry, see that it is sufficiently -hot by dipping your finger (not in the fat), but in a little water, and -then hold it over the fat, so that a few drops go into it; if it spits -and throws back the water, it is sufficiently hot: or, throw in a small -dice of bread and take it out immediately; if it is firm or colored, it -is hot enough: or, in frying of fish, before putting it in, lay hold of -the head and dip the end of the tail, and, if it crisps it, then let the -remainder go in. I have found, if due attention is paid to the pan to -prevent it from burning, forty articles may be fried in it before it -wants renewing; and I am certain it will be found cheaper than the -common way of putting a little fat into the frying-pan and turning the -sole over and over, for you are then almost certain of sending the -grease up to the table, where it is not wanted. When the fat is not -used, it should be emptied, whilst hot, through a sieve, into an earthen -pipkin, and covered with paper to prevent the dust going in it. For the -purpose of frying, an iron wire-basket, with a handle, is used, in which -the object to be cooked is placed, and thus inserted in the liquid. The -cost of this instrument is trifling. - - -SAUTEING.--You will perceive, dearest, by the following, that the word -fried is often wrongly used in cookery instead of the word saute, which -process is totally different, and produces quite another effect on food. -Saute means anything cooked in a very small quantity of butter, oil, -lard, or fat, one side of the article at a time, whilst the other -requires about 100 times more of the above-named materials to cook -properly. You will see, in these remarks, that it is not frying a -pancake, omelette, or still less a chop, steak, or cutlet, but that they -are sauted; and how to explain that word, to use it instead of the -misapplied word fry, puzzles me considerably, as I am quite ignorant of -its origin as regards its application to cookery. All the researches I -have made in English and French Dictionaries and Encyclopaedias, have not -enlightened me in the least on the subject. In French, it means to jump, -hop, skip, understood by our boys at school, as well as by the -grasshopper tribe, called in French sauterelles, from the word sauter, -to jump. I well remember at school we had a French emigre for a -dancing-master, who used to get into a passion when we did not dance to -his professional taste; and used to say, in shaking his powdered wig, as -holding his fiddle in one hand and his bow in the other, making all -kinds of grimaces and contortions, which used to remind me of the -principal figure in the group of the Laocoon,--"Mon dieu, mon dieu, -young miss, vous sautez tres bien, mais vous dansez fort mal;" which -means, "You jump very well, but you dance very badly." It also reminds -me of an expression made by a friend of ours from Havre, who was on a -visit to us last November. Seeing some Guy Fawkes carried about the -street, he asked me what it meant; when I told him, that in the year -1605, an attempt was made to destroy by gunpowder the King and -Parliament in the House of Lords, as well as----. "Oui, oui, madame, I -know, I remember reading of it in English history; it was that little -brute qui a voulut faire _sauter_ le Parlement," replied he very -quickly. "_Sauter, sauter,_" I said; "no, sir, not saute--blow up." -"Oui, oui, madame, I know, it is the same thing." "Same thing," replied -I. This of course puzzled my culinary imagination still more; and I -perceived, that if the word was translated to his meaning, it would -sound most absurd and ridiculous; as, for example, on being at a festive -board, and a polite young gentleman, or even your own husband, might -gallantly offer to give you a _blow-up_ cutlet, instead of a cotelette -saute, as they say in fashionable circles. I can easily conceive, that -if the cotelette was blown up, it would stand a chance of coming down on -the other side, thus saving the cook the trouble; but if Guy Fawkes had -unfortunately succeeded, it would have produced quite another effect. -Having failed in my literary researches, I tried to find it in practice. -I therefore went to my kitchen, and put two spoonfuls of oil in a -sautepan; I took a nice spring chicken prepared for broiling, put on the -fire; and, as it began to act upon it, the oil began to jump, and also -slightly the chicken. I then perceived that the way my French friend -used the word was right; and that, after all, there was not such a great -difference in Guy Fawkes's plan of cooking the Parliament and that of a -cutlet or chicken, for both were doomed to destruction, the one by -falling in awful ruins on the fire, and the other devoured by a ravenous -stomach on the dinner-table. Now, dearest, having found no means of -translating it to my satisfaction, I see no other plan but to adopt it -amongst us, and give it letters of naturalization, not for the beauty of -the word, but for its utility. The process of sauteing is at once quick, -simple, and economical, and to be well done furnishes a pleasing article -of food. The art of doing it well consists in doing it quickly, to keep -the gravy and succulence in the meat, which a slow process would -nullify, and is of course confined to small articles of every kind of -food. - - -BROILING is, without doubt, the earliest and most primitive mode of -cookery, it being that which would present itself to man in a state of -nature. It is one of the easiest parts of cookery, and therefore should -be done well; it entirely depends upon the fire, which must be -exceedingly clear, and the best gridiron is that having round bars, -which should be placed slanting over the fire, to prevent the fat going -into it; the bars should be greased, and the gridiron should be placed -on the fire to get hot before the object to be cooked is placed on it I -have heard that great difference of opinion exists in cookery books upon -the proper broiling of a steak, if it should be turned only once or -often. My plan is to turn it often, and my reason is, that, if turned -but once, the albumen and the fibrine of the meat get charred, and the -heat throws out the osmazome or gravy on the upper side, which, when -turned over, goes into the fire; by turning it often, so as at first -only to set the outside, the gravy goes into the centre, and it becomes -evenly done throughout. (_See_ "Soyer's Mutton Chop.") As regards the -thickness of the meat to be broiled, that depends in a great measure on -the intensity of the fire, but the quicker the better, and also the -sooner it is eaten after taken from the fire the better. I have -latterly, in broiling rump-steaks, added that which, by a great many, is -considered an improvement; it is, on turning them the last time, to -dredge them out of a dredger with fine holes, in which has been placed -four tablespoonfuls of fine biscuit or rusk-powder, one tablespoonful of -salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, a saltspoonful of either -eschalot-powder or mushroom-powder, or finely-pulverized salts of -celery, well mixed together, and the steak to be placed in a very hot -dish, with a little mushroom-ketchup and a small piece of butter, and -served immediately. - - - - -SAUCES. - - - Sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar, which - consists of certain rules called Syntax, which is the foundation of - all languages: these fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery the - same number of sauces, which are the foundation of all others; but - these, like its prototype the grammar, have two--brown and white, - which bear a resemblance to the noun and verb, as they are the - first and most easily learnt, and most constantly in use; the - others are the adjuncts, pronouns, adverbs, and interjections; upon - "the proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of - all others, and the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment - of the dinner; for to my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut - is in the composition of music, as it is by the arrangement of the - notes that harmony is produced, so should the ingredients in the - sauce be so nicely blended, and that delightful concord should - exist, which would equally delight the palate, as a masterpiece of - a Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear; but which, if badly - executed, tantalize those nervous organs, affect the whole system, - and prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure. I will therefore be - very precise in describing the two, in order that when you make - them, you will not cause your guests to make grimaces at each - other, when partaking of them at your festive board, for the - present age is a little more refined than at the time of Dr. - Johnson, and we are often obliged to swallow what we do not like; - for it is reported of him, that being at a ceremonious - dinner-party, and indulging in his usual flow of wit, he - unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup, which he - immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from; and - observing the astonishment of some of his neighbors, he very coolly - remarked, "A fool would have burnt his mouth." - - When we are at home alone, I very seldom trouble myself by making - white or brown sauce, which I can avoid by selecting simplified - dishes, which easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them. - But when I expect a little company, the first I order of my cook is - to make me half of the quantity of the following receipts for white - and brown sauces:-- - - -130. _White Sauce._--Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weighing about four -pounds, into large dice; also half a pound of lean bacon; butter the -bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, add two -onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a -bouquet of a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley, add a gill -of water, place over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until -the bottom of the stewpan is covered with whitish glaze, when fill up -with three quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let -simmer at the corner of the fire an hour and a half, keeping well -skimmed, when pass it through a hair sieve into a basin; in another -stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with which mix six ounces of -flour, stirring over the fire about three minutes, take off, keep -stirring until partly cold, when add the stock all at once, continually -stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour; add half a pint of -boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little chopped mushrooms -if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, until required for -use, stirring it round occasionally until cold; the above being a -simplified white sauce, will be referred to very often in the receipts. - - -131. _Brown Sauce._--Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, rub it -over the bottom, peel two or three large onions, cut them in thick -slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small pieces about two pounds -of knuckle of veal,[3] all meat, or three pounds if with bone, a quarter -of a pound of lean bacon cut small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a -tablespoonful of salt, two bay-leaves, a gill of water; set it on a -brisk fire, let it remain ten minutes, when stir it well round, subdue -the fire, let it remain a few minutes longer, and stir now and then -until it has a nice brown color; fill your pan with three quarts of -water; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the lid -three parts on the saucepan; when boiling, skim fat and all; after one -hour, or one hour and a half simmering, pass it through a sieve into a -basin. To make the thickening or roux for it, proceed as follows:--Put -two ounces of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add -three ounces of flour, stir it until getting a thin deep yellow color; -this in France is called roux, being very useful in cookery, and will be -often referred to in these receipts. This process will take five -minutes, when remove from the fire for two minutes to cool, then add at -once three and a quarter pints of the above stock, very quickly set it -on the fire to boil, remove to corner to simmer, and skim; it ought to -be entirely free from grease, and of a light chestnut color. - - -132. _Demi-Glaze--Thin Brown Sauce for Made Dishes._--When I have a -small dinner-party, I always, as I told you before, make small -quantities of white and brown sauce as above, but this is a nice way of -clarifying a brown sauce without much trouble, and makes it a beautiful -transparent brown color: but although I have made it quite a study, that -each _entree_, or made dish for daily use, should make its own sauce, -yet I must impress upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking a -good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of brown sauce in a middle-sized -stewpan, add to it half a pint of broth or consomme, put it on the -stove, stir with wooden spoon, let it boil as fast as possible, take the -scum off which will rise to the surface, reduce it until it adheres -lightly to the spoon, pass it through a sieve or tammy into a basin, -stir now and then until cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top, put -it by until wanted for use. It will keep for a week in winter, by adding -half a gill of white broth every other day, and giving it a boil; the -addition of a tablespoonful of tomatos, gives it a beautiful color; use -where indicated. - - -133. _Thin Brown Sauce of Mushrooms._--Put twelve tablespoonfuls of thin -brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, then have six or eight small -mushrooms well cleaned and washed, chop them fine, and place in sauce, -and boil for five minutes; taste if it is to your liking; the addition -of a little sugar is an improvement: a little cayenne, if liked, may be -introduced. This sauce is good for cutlets, broiled fowl and game, &c. - - -134. _Eschalot Sauce._--Chop fine about a good tablespoonful of -eschalot, wash them by placing them in the corner of a napkin, and -pouring water over them; press them until dry, put them in a small -stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, a little mace; -boil two minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, boil a little -longer, add a little sugar, and serve. - - -135. _Piquant Sauce._--Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, or -eschalots, cleaned as above, into a stewpan; put also four -tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a bay-leaf, and boil; then add ten -tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of -green gherkins; boil five minutes, skim, add a little sugar, taste if -well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve. - - -136. _Tarragon Sauce._--Put eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four -of broth, into a stewpan; boil for a few minutes, add a tablespoonful of -vinegar, have ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon, put in to -simmer two minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, but especially -spring chickens. - - -137. _Brown Cucumber Sauce._--Peel a small fresh cucumber, cut it in -neat pieces, put in a stewpan with a little sugar, add half an ounce of -butter, set it on a slow fire, stir it now and then, add twelve -tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and four of broth; let it simmer till -tender, skim the butter off, remove the cucumbers into another stewpan, -reduce the sauce a little, taste it and serve. - - -138. _Mince Herb Sauce._--Put two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped -onions in a stewpan, add a tablespoonful of oil, place it on the fire, -stir a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze and four of -broth or water; boil, skim; if too thick, and the scum should not rise, -add half a gill of broth or water; boil, and reduce to a proper -thickness, and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley if handy, one of -mushrooms, and season with a little cayenne, the juice of a quarter of a -lemon; serve. I often introduce a little garlic in this. - - -139. _Italian Herb Sauce._--Proceed in the same way as the above, only -add a little chopped thyme and a small glass of sherry. - - -140. _Robert Sauce._--Peel and cut up two good-sized onions, put them in -a stewpan with an ounce of butter till they are a nice yellow color, -then add eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and two of water or broth; -skim, boil quick; when a proper thickness, add a good tablespoonful of -French mustard; season it rather high; if no French mustard, use -English, but it completely changes the flavor, though still very -palatable. - - -141. _Ravigote Sauce._--Put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced, -with a little carrot, a little thyme, bay-leaf, one clove, a little -mace, a little scraped horseradish, a little butter, fry a few minutes, -then add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten tablespoonfuls of brown -sauce, four of broth; when boiling, skim, add a tablespoonful of currant -jelly; when melted, pass all through a tammy, and serve with any kind of -meat or poultry; with hare or venison it is excellent. - - -142. _Brown Mushroom Sauce._--Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in -slices, place them in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, the -juice of a quarter of a lemon, set it on a slow fire for a few minutes, -then add ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze; boil till they are tender, and -serve. A little mushroom catsup may be introduced. - - -143. _Orange Sauce for Game._--Peel half an orange, removing all the -pith; cut it into slices, and then in fillets; put them in a gill of -water to boil for two minutes; drain them on a sieve, throwing the water -away; place in the stewpan ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or two of broth; -and, when boiling, add the orange, a little sugar, simmer ten minutes, -skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is -served with ducklings and waterfowl: those that like may add cayenne and -mustard. - - -144. _Garlic Sauce._--Though many dislike the flavor of this root, yet -those that like it ought not to be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten -tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little tomatos if handy; boil it a few -minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it in with a little sugar, -and serve. - - -145. _Mint Sauce for Lamb._--Take three tablespoonfuls of chopped leaves -of green mint, three tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin -with half a pint of brown vinegar; stir it well up, add one saltspoonful -of salt, and serve. - - -146. _Liaison of Eggs._--Break the yolks of three eggs in a basin, with -which mix six spoonfuls of milk, or eight of cream; pass it through a -fine sieve, and use when directed. - - -147. _Anchovy Butter Sauce._--Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of -demi-glaze, or three of broth; when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy -butter; stir continually till melted: serve where directed. - - -148. _Soyer's Sauce._--Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a stewpan; -when hot, add four spoonfuls of Soyer's Gentleman's Sauce; let boil, and -serve with either chop, steak, cotelettes, poultry, or game. - - -149. _Papillotte Sauce._--Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put it in a -pan with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stir over the fire for a -few minutes, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and boil; then -add a tablespoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto of parsley, a little -nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a little scraped garlic; reduce till -rather thickish; put on dish till cold, and use it for anything you may -put up "_en papillotte_." - - -150. _Tomato Sauce._--If fresh, put six in a stewpan; having removed the -stalk, and squeezed them in the hand to remove pips, &c., add half an -onion, sliced, a little thyme, bay-leaf, half an ounce of celery, one -ounce of ham, same of butter, teaspoonful of sugar, same of salt, a -quarter one of pepper; set on fire to stew gently; when all tender, add -a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five -minutes, add a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through -sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather thick to -the back of the spoon, and use it for any kind of meat or poultry. If -preserved tomato, proceed as for poivrade sauce respecting the -vegetables, omitting the vinegar, add the tomato, instead of brown -sauce, add a tablespoonful of flour and broth to bring it to a proper -thickness, and pass it through a sieve, and serve as above. - - - 151. _Curry Sauce._--This I generally keep ready-made in the - larder, being very fond of what I consider such wholesome food as - curry; but not liking to be troubled with making it often, I cause - my cook to prepare a certain quantity at a time. Mr. B. is very - partial to curry, but he likes it in winter; for my part, I prefer - it in summer. After having partaken of some one very hot summer's - day, I felt quite cool. Capt. White, who has been nearly twenty - years in the East Indies, tells me that it will produce that - refreshing effect; but I can enjoy it in any season. - -Put into a pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two of peeled apples, -with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, a blade of -mace, four peppercorns, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme; stir them -over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add -two tablespoonfuls of the best curry powder, one of vinegar, two of -flour, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar; moisten it with a quart of -broth or milk, or even water, with the addition of a little glaze; boil -till in a pulp, and adhering rather thickly to the back of the spoon; -pass all through a fine sieve or tammy, give it another boil for a few -minutes, put it in a basin, and use when required. Any kind of meat, -poultry, and fish, or parts of game, is excellent warmed in this sauce, -and served with well-boiled and dry rice. I have kept this sauce in a -cool place in the winter for a month, boiling it now and then. The -quantity of powder may be omitted, and a spoonful of curry paste used, -or some mangoes. (_See Curries._) - - -152. _A very good and useful White Sauce (quite new)._--Put a quart of -white sauce in a stewpan of a proper size on a fire; stir continually -until reduced to one third; put two yolks of eggs in a basin, stir them -well up, add your sauce gradually, keep stirring, put back in stewpan, -set it to boil for a few minutes longer, then add one pint of boiling -milk, which will bring it to its proper thickness; that is, when it -adheres transparently to the back of a spoon; pass through a tammy into -a basin, stir now and then till cold; if not immediately required, and I -have any stock left, I use half of it with half of milk. I also try this -way, which is very convenient: when the yolks are in, and well boiled, I -put it in a large gallipot, and when cold, cover with pieces of paper, -and it will keep good in winter for two or three weeks, and above a week -in summer; and when I want to use a little of it, I only take a spoonful -or two and warm it on the fire, and add enough milk or white broth to -bring it to a proper thickness, and use where required. This sauce is -very smooth, and never, turns greasy; it lies beautifully on fowl, or -any white made dish; the addition of a drop of cream gives it a very -fine white appearance. - - -153. _Onion Puree Sauce._--Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a -stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one -of sugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a -pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add -one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper -thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter; pass -through a tammy, warm again, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops, -rabbits, or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and -boiled rabbit as onion sauce. - - -154. _Puree of Cauliflower Sauce._--Boil a cauliflower well in three -pints of water, in which you have previously put one ounce of butter, -two tablespoonfuls of salt; when done, chop it up, having prepared and -slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, half a -turnip, one ounce of ham, two of butter, a little bay-leaf, mace, add -then the cauliflower, stir round, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten -as above for onions, pass and finish the same way. - - -155. _Jerusalem Artichoke Sauce._--Peel twelve, and well wash, boil till -tender, and proceed as above. - - -156. _Turnip Sauce Puree._--Boil six middle-sized ones, press all the -water you can out of them, and proceed as the above. - - -157. _White Cucumber Puree._--Peel two, or one large one, cut in slices, -put in the stewpan with the same vegetables, &c., as for the -cauliflower; when tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, three gills of -milk or broth, boil, and finishing as the cauliflower. - - -158. _Sorrel Sauce, or Puree._--Wash well four handfuls of sorrel, put -it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan, with a little butter; let it -melt, add a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of -pepper, moisten to a thick puree, with milk, or broth, or cream; pass it -through a sieve, put it back in a stewpan, warm again, add two whole -eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, and serve where directed. - - -159. _Spinach Puree (see Vegetables, 2d Course)._--Endive is often used -in France, and called chicoree. This puree may be made like the -cauliflower, or only plainly chopped, put into a pan with two ounces of -butter, a gill of white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little -salt, pepper and sugar. - - -160. _Stewed Peas and Sprew Grass._--For cutlets, sweetbreads, fowls, or -any dishes, they are applicable (see Vegetables, second course), also -French beans, only using one third of the quantity that you would for a -made dish for an entremet. - - -161. _Scooped Jerusalem Artichokes._--Scoop with a round cutter -twenty-four pieces of artichoke, of the size of half an inch in -diameter, wash them, put them in a small stewpan with half an ounce of -butter and a quarter of an ounce of sugar; put it on a slow fire for a -few minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, six of white broth -or milk, let them simmer till tender, skim, mix a yolk of an egg with -two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour in stewpan, and move it round very -quick, and serve; it must not be too thick, and the artichokes must be -well done; they must not be in puree; they are good with or served under -any white meat. - - -162. _Scooped Turnips._--Proceed exactly the same, only serve a little -thinner: they will not do if stringy. - - -163. _Button Onions._--The same, only make the sauce thinner, and boil -longer, according to their size. - - -164. _Young Carrots._--Scrape and trim to shape twenty small and young -carrots, pass in sugar and butter, add white or brown sauce, but keep it -thinner, as it requires a longer time boiling; when tender, if for white -sauce, add a tablespoonful of liaison, stir, and serve. - - -165. _White Mushroom Sauce._--Use small white ones; cut the dark part -out and remove the tail, wash in several waters, put in a stewpan with a -little butter, salt, pepper, juice of lemon, saute it for a few minutes, -add a gill of white sauce, four table-spoonfuls of broth, milk, or -water; boil and serve under any white meat. - - -166. _White Cucumber Sauce._--Peel two cucumbers, divide each lengthways -into four, remove the pips, and cut into pieces one inch long; add, in -stewpan one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, half of salt, let -it stew on the fire for fifteen minutes, then add a gill of white sauce, -six spoonfuls of milk, broth, or water, simmer gently and skim, add a -tablespoonful of liaison, and serve where directed, but observe that all -these garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry. - - -167. _Ragout of Quenelles._--Make twelve nice small quenelles (see -_Quenelles_), warm half a pint of white sauce, in which you have put -four tablespoonfuls of milk, and half a teaspoonful of eschalot; when -well done, pour on the liaison over with the juice of a lemon, and -serve. A few English truffles or mushrooms may be added to this sauce. - - -168. _Maitre d'Hotel Sauce._--Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce in a -stewpan, with four of white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then -stir in two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter; stir it quickly over the -fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the -butter is in; this sauce should only be made at the time of serving. - - -169. _Green Peas Stewed._--Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green, -into a stewpan, with three table-spoonfuls of white sauce, two ounces -of butter, a little sugar and salt, and two button onions, with parsley, -tied together; boil them ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison, -stir it in quickly, and serve. - - -170. _Green Peas, with Bacon._--Put a pint of well-boiled peas into a -stewpan, with five spoonfuls of brown sauce, two of brown gravy, a -teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it -boil about ten minutes; have ready braised about a quarter of a pound of -lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an inch square, add it to -the peas, take out the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of -butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar; mix well together, stew twenty -minutes, and serve. - - -171. _Blanched Mushrooms._--Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms, cut off the -dirt, and likewise the heads (reserving the stalk for chopping), wash -the heads in a basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve; -put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, -the juice of half a good lemon, and a little salt; turn or peel each -head neatly, and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will -turn black; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five -minutes, put them into a basin ready for use; chop the stalks and peel -very fine, put them into a stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of the -liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in; let them simmer three minutes, -put them into a jar, and use where indicated. - -Observe: Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can -attain; if they are very fresh and white, wash them quickly, and wipe -them on a cloth; throw them into the liquid above mentioned. - - -172. _Onions Stuffed._--Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the -top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, and which adds a better -flavor if left, blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty -minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry; take the middle out of each -onion, and fill them with veal forcemeat (with a little chopped -eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it), and put them in a -saute-pan well buttered, cover them with white broth, let them simmer -over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn them over -and serve where required. - - -173. _Hot Tartar Sauce._--Put two table-spoonfuls of white sauce in a -small stewpan, four of broth or milk, boil a few minutes, then add two -tablespoonfuls of the tartar sauce (see Salads) in it, stir it very -quick with a wooden spoon, make it quite hot but not boiling; put it on -a dish, and serve where described. - - - 174. _Mephistophelian Sauce._--Do not be afraid of the title, for - it has nothing diabolical about it; the first time I tried it was - at Mr. B.'s birthday party; and some of his friends having over and - over again drank his health, till he had hardly any health left to - carry him to the drawing-room, where the coffee was waiting, about - eleven o'clock, having asked for some anchovy sandwiches, but, from - a mistake, not having any in the house, I composed this ravigotante - sauce, which partly brought them back to their senses. - -I cut up the remains of the turkey, rubbed some mustard over it, -sprinkled a little salt and plenty of cayenne, put it on the gridiron on -the fire, and made the following sauce: I chopped six eschalots, washed -and pressed them in the corner of a clean cloth, then put them into a -stewpan with one and a half wine-glassful of Chili vinegar, a chopped -clove, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, an ounce of glaze, and boiled -all together for ten minutes; then added four tablespoonfuls of tomato -sauce, a little sugar, and ten of gravy or brown sauce; boiled it a few -minutes longer, then added a pat of butter, stirring it well in, removed -the bay-leaf, and poured over turkey, and served. - - - - -SOUPS. - - - In France, no dinner is served without soup, and no good soup is - supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu (see No. 215), it being - the national dish of the middle and poorer classes of that country; - thinking it might be of service to the working classes, by showing - the benefits to be derived from more frequently partaking of a hot - dinner, as I have previously observed, especially in a cold - climate like ours. Clear light soups are very delicate, and in this - country more fit for the wealthy; whilst the more substantial thick - soups, such as mock turtle, ox-tail, peas, &c., are more in vogue, - consequent to being better adapted to the million; therefore, after - giving a few series of clear soups, I shall proceed to give a - greater variety of the thicker sorts, being careful that every - receipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost. - - -175. _Stock for all kinds of Soup._--Procure a knuckle of veal about six -pounds in weight, which cut into pieces about the size of an egg, as -also half a pound of lean ham or bacon; then rub a quarter of a pound of -butter upon the bottom of the stewpan (capable of holding about two -gallons), into which put the meat and bacon, with half a pint of water, -two ounces of salt, three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each, -one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery; put the -cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp fire, occasionally -stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the bottom of the -stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze, which will lightly -adhere to the spoon; fill up the stewpan with cold water, and when upon -the point of boiling, draw it to the corner of the fire, where it must -gently simmer for three hours, carefully skimming off every particle of -grease and scum; pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, and it is -ready for use when required. - -The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of clear soups, and -of course for thick soups or purees; by boiling it rather faster about -five minutes before passing, you will be better enabled to take off -every particle of grease from the surface. In making a stock of beef -proceed as above, but allow double the time to simmer; mutton or lamb, -if any trimmings, might also be used; if beef, use seven pounds; if -mutton, eight; or lamb, seven, of course bones and all included; with -care, this broth would be quite clear. To give a little color, as -required for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy or browning, but -never attempt to brown it by letting it color at the bottom of the -stewpan, for in that case you would destroy the greater part of the -osmazome. - - -176. _Another way, more economical._--Instead of cutting up the knuckle -of veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces only, and leave the -bacon in one piece; then, when the broth is passed, take out the veal, -which is very excellent served with a little of the broth for gravy, and -the bacon with a few greens upon another dish. This is as I always eat -it myself; but some persons would probably prefer a little -parsley-and-butter sauce or sharp sauce, served with it. Should any of -the veal be left until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and -gradually warmed in either of the before-mentioned sauces. Should you -make your stock from the leg or shin of beef, stew it double the time, -preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock, and serve with beef, or -serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over; the remainder, if cold, -may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of mutton, and you have used -the scrags of the neck, the breast, head, or the chump of the loin, keep -them in as large pieces as possible; and, when done, serve with a few -mashed turnips, and caper sauce, separately; if any remaining until -cold, mince it. Lamb would be seldom used for stock, being much too -expensive; but in case of an abundance, which there sometimes is in the -country, proceed the same as for mutton. - - -177. _Brown Gravies._--Rub an ounce of butter over the bottom of a -stewpan which would hold about three quarts; have ready peeled four -onions, cut them into thick slices, with which cover the bottom of the -stewpan; over these lay about two pounds of beef from the leg or shin, -cut into thin slices, with the bone chopped very small, add a small -carrot, a turnip cut in slices, and a couple of cloves; set the stewpan -upon a gentle fire for ten minutes, shaking it round occasionally to -prevent burning; after which, let it go upon a slow fire for upwards of -an hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze, but not -burnt; when properly done, and ready for filling up, you will perceive -the fat that runs from the meat quite clear, fill up the stewpan with -cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt; and when upon the point of -boiling, set it on a corner of the fire, where let it simmer gently -about an hour, skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise to the -surface; when done, pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, and put -by to use for the following purposes:--For every kind of roast meat, -poultry, or game especially; also to give a good color to soups and -sauces. This gravy will keep several days, by boiling it every other -day. Although beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose, it -may be made of veal, mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork, rabbits, or -poultry. - - -178. _Browning._--When in business, and not so much time to devote to -the kitchen, I used to make shift with a browning from the following -receipt, using, however, but a very few drops: put two ounces of -powdered sugar into a middling-sized stewpan, which place over a slow -fire; when beginning to melt, stir it round with a wooden spoon until -getting quite black, then pour over half a pint of cold water: leave it -to dissolve, and take a little for use when required. - - -179. _Glaze_ is an almost indispensable article in a _cuisine -bourgeoise_, and should be kept by all persons in the middle classes of -life, the advantage being that it will keep for months together, is very -simple to make, and is always useful in cookery, however humble; in -fact, with it you can dress a very good dinner with very little trouble. - -Make a stock as directed in No. 175, but omitting the salt, which, when -done, pass through a cloth into a basin; then fill the stewpan up a -second time with hot water, and let boil four hours longer to obtain all -the succulence from the meat, then pass it through a cloth the same as -the first; then pour both stocks in a large stewpan together, set it -over the fire, and let it boil as fast as possible, leaving a large -spoon in, to stir occasionally and prevent its boiling over; when -reduced to about three pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan, set again -to boil at the corner, skimming well if required; when reduced to a -quart, place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a wooden spoon -until forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) of a -fine yellowish-brown color; pour it into a basin, or, if for keeping any -time, into a long bladder, from which cut a slice and use where -directed. - -Where, however, only a small quantity is required, reduce only the -second stock, using the first for either soup or sauce; but in that case -the salt must not be omitted from the first stock, but from the second -only. Veal at all times makes the best glaze, but any kinds of meat, -game, or poultry will produce more or less. - - -180. _To clarify Stock, if required._--In case, by some accident, your -stock should not be clear, put it (say three quarts) into a stewpan, and -place it over a good fire, skim well, and, when boiling, have ready the -whites of three eggs (carefully separated from their yolks), to which -add half a pint of water; whisk well together; then add half a pint of -the boiling stock gradually, still whisking the eggs; then whisk the -boiling stock, pouring the whites of eggs, &c., in whilst so doing, -which continue until nearly boiling again, then take it from the fire, -let it remain until the whites of eggs separate themselves, pass it -through a clean fine cloth into a basin; this must be taken as a rule -for every kind of clear soup, which must be strictly followed by every -person wishing to profit by this little work. These principles, once -learned, would be useful at all times, and save a great deal of useless -reference in the perusal of these receipts; and no persons can make -themselves answerable for the success of any individual in making soups -if the instructions recommended be not strictly followed. The following -rule should be therefore punctually attended to. - -All clear soups ought not to be too strong of meat, and must be of a -light brown sherry or straw color. All white or brown thick soups should -be rather thin, with just sufficient consistency to adhere lightly to a -spoon when hot, soups of fish, poultry, or game especially. All purees, -no matter whether of meat or vegetables, require to be somewhat thicker, -which may be ascertained by its adhering more thickly to the spoon. -Every Italian soup must be very clear, rather stronger of meat, and the -color of pale sherry. - - By following the few foregoing observations, experience will teach - you volumes; for as there is a great difference in the quality of - different materials (flour, for instance, which, if strong, would - tend to thicken, but, if weak, actually almost turns to water by - boiling), therefore your judgment, with the above few important - remarks, will make you more perfect than the most precise - quantities of weights and measurements, upon that important point. - - -181. _Clear Vegetable Soup._--Peel a middling-sized carrot and turnip, -which cut first into slices, then into small square pieces about the -size of dice; peel also eighteen button onions; wash the whole in cold -water, and drain them upon a sieve; when dry, put them into a stewpan -with two ounces of butter and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar; set them -upon a very sharp fire for ten minutes, tossing them over every now and -then until the vegetables become covered with a thin shiny glaze, which -may take rather more than the before-mentioned time; care, however, must -be taken, for should you let them get brown, the flavor of the soup -would be spoiled; whilst, upon the other hand, if put in whilst -surrounded with a whitish liquid, your soup would look white and -unsightly; with a little attention, however, success is certain; and, -once accomplished, there would be no difficulty in making any vegetable -soups or sauce, therefore it is very desirable to know how to do it -properly. When done, pour two quarts of clear broth over them, set it -upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling, place it at the -corner to simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender (the onions -especially), carefully skimming off all the butter as it rises to the -surface; it will require about half an hour's simmering, and there -should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts of stock; taste if -properly seasoned, which it ought to be with the above proportions, but -use your own judgment accordingly. - -By following the last process correctly, the only difference to be made -in those descriptions of soup is in the shape the vegetables are cut. - - -182. _Printaniere Soup._--Cut a small quantity of vegetables as in the -last, but rather less carrot and turnip, introducing a little celery, -leek, and young spring onions, instead of the button onions; proceed -exactly as before, but ten minutes before taking it from the fire, wash -a few leaves of sorrel, which cut small and put into the soup, with six -sprigs of chervil; in summer, a few fresh-boiled peas or French beans -served in it is an improvement. - -In whatever shape you may cut the vegetables for soup, always be -cautious not to cut some pieces larger than others, and the whole of -them rather small than large; for if some pieces should be small and -others large, the smaller pieces would be quite in puree, whilst the -larger ones would still be quite hard, which would cause your soup not -only to eat badly, but give it an unsightly appearance, for the -vegetable boiled to a puree would make the soup thick. The above remark, -although simple, is still very important. - - -183. _Julienne Soup._--This soup is entirely the hereditary property of -France, and is supposed to be so called from the months of June and -July, when all vegetables are in full season; and to make it in reality -as originally made, a small quantity of every description of vegetables -should be used, including lettuce, sorrel, and tarragon; however, some -few sorts of vegetables mixed together make a most estimable soup. Weigh -half a pound of the vegetables in fair proportions to each other; that -is, carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and leeks, which cut into small -fillets an inch in length, and of the thickness of a trussing-needle; -when done, wash dry, and pass them in butter and sugar as before, -proceeding the same with the soup, adding just before it is done a -little sorrel, cabbage-lettuce, and chervil or peas, if handy, but it -would be excellent without either. - - -184. _Clear Turnip Soup._--Cut, with a round vegetable scoop, about -forty pieces of turnip, of the shape and size of small marbles, which -put into a stewpan, with sugar and butter as before, but fry them of a -light brownish color, and finish the soup, as in the previous receipts. -A tablespoonful of Italian paste, previously half boiled in water, then -drained and finished in the soup, is also an improvement. - - -185. _Clear Artichoke Soup._--Peel twelve Jerusalem artichokes, which -well wash, then cut as many round scoops as possible, the same as in the -last, proceeding exactly the same. The remainder of either turnips, -artichokes, or carrots may be boiled, and mashed with a little butter, -pepper, and salt, and served as a vegetable, or reserved to make a soup -puree; the remains of other vegetables from the previous soups should -also be reserved for flavoring of stock, instead of using the fresh -vegetables. - - -186. _Vermicelli._--Put a quart of clear stock into a stewpan upon the -fire, and when boiling add two ounces of vermicelli; boil gently ten -minutes, and it is ready to serve. - - -187. _Italian Paste._--Procure some small Italian paste, in stars, -rings, or any other shape, but small; put on a quart of stock, and when -boiling, add two ounces of the paste; boil twenty minutes, or rather -more, when it is ready to serve. - - -188. _Semoulina._--When the stock is boiling, add two tablespoonfuls of -semoulina; boil twenty minutes, and it is then done. Proceed the same -also with tapioca and sago. - - -189. _Macaroni._--Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni, in a quart of -water, for ten minutes, then strain it off, and throw it into two quarts -of boiling stock; let simmer gently for half an hour, when serve, with -grated cheese, upon a plate separately. - - -190. _Rice._--Well wash two ounces of the best rice, strain off the -water, put the rice into a stewpan, with a quart of cold stock, place it -upon the fire, and let simmer about half an hour, until the rice is very -tender, but not in pulp. - - -191. _Mutton Broth._--Any description of trimmings of mutton may be used -for broth, but the scrag ends of the neck are usually chosen; put two -scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bones), with three -onions, three turnips, and one carrot, fill up the stewpan with a gallon -of water, and place it upon the fire; when boiling set it at the corner, -where let it simmer for three hours, keeping it well skimmed; then cut a -small carrot, two turnips, an onion, with a little leek and celery, into -small square pieces, which put into another stewpan, with a wineglassful -of pearl-barley; skim every particle of fat from the broth, which pour -through a hair sieve over them; let the whole boil gently at the corner -of the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the -meat may be trimmed into neat pieces and served with the broth, or -separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce. Half or even -a quarter of the above quantity can be made by reducing the ingredients -in proportion. - - -192. _Irish Soup made of Mutton Broth._--This soup is made similar to -the last, adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes, cut into large dice, -omitting the other vegetables, which, being boiled to a puree, thickens -the broth; just before serving, throw in twenty heads of parsley, and at -the same time add a few flowers of marigold, which will really give it a -very pleasing flavor. - - -193. _Scotch Cock-a-leekie._--Trim two or three bunches of fine winter -leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the heads, then split each in -halves lengthwise, and each half into three, which wash well in two or -three waters, then put them into a stewpan, with a stock previously made -as directed (No. 175), and a fowl trussed as for boiling; let the whole -simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it -well skimmed, seasoning a little if required; half an hour before -serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; when ready to -serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place them in a -tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks being then partly -in puree; if too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. Should -the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them -five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previous to putting them in -the stock. - -I prefer a young fowl; but, should an old one be most handy, stew it a -short time in the stock before passing it. This soup will keep good -several days, and would improve by warming a second time. - - -194. _Ox-tail Soup._--Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the -joints, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put -in the ox-tails, with a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of -celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; and half a -pint of water, and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire, -stirring occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a -thickish brown glaze, then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it -well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a -tablespoonful of salt, and stir occasionally until boiling, when set it -upon the corner of the stove, skim well, add a gill of good brown gravy, -or a few drops of browning, and let simmer until the tails are stewed -very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bones, then take them out -immediately, and put them into your tureen; pass the soup through a hair -sieve over them, add a head of celery, previously cut small, and boiled -in a little stock, and serve. - -Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving -with vegetables, as directed for the clear vegetable soup (No. 181). - - -195. _Ox-cheek Soup._--Blanch in boiling water two ox-cheeks, cut off -the beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into -middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek-part whole; put all together -into a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a little salt, ten -peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and -a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let it stew at the corner of -the fire six hours, keeping it well skimmed, then take out the fleshy -part of the cheeks, and pass the broth through a hair-sieve into another -stewpan; mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a pint of cold broth, -which pour into it, and stir over the fire until boiling, when place it -at the corner (adding two heads of celery, cut very fine, and a glass of -sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the meat into small square -pieces, keep them warm in the tureen, and when the soup is ready, pour -over, and serve; give it a nice color with browning. - -Sheeps' or lambs' heads also make very good soup by following the above -receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or beef to the stock: -two heads would be sufficient, and they would not require so long to -stew. - - -196. _White Mock-turtle Soup._--Procure half a calf's head (scalded, not -skinned), bone it, then cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a -stewpan, well buttered at the bottom, with half a pound of lean ham, an -ounce of salt, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a -leek, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf, add half a pint of water; set -it upon the fire, moving it round occasionally, until the bottom of the -stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and -put in the half head, let simmer upon the corner of the fire for two -hours and a half, or until the head is tender, then take it out, and -press it between two dishes, and pass the stock through a hair sieve -into a basin; then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of -butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil, marjoram, and bay-leaf, let the -butter get quite hot, then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir -over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white; stand it off -the fire to cool, then add the stock, stir over the fire until boiling, -then stand it at the corner, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a -hair sieve into another stewpan; cut the head into pieces an inch -square, but not too thick, and put them into the soup, which season with -a little cayenne pepper; when the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream, -and pour it into your tureen. - -The above quantity would make two tureens of soup, and will keep good -several days, but of course half the quantity could be made. - - -197. _Brown Mock-turtle._--Proceed the same as in the last article, only -coloring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze, likewise adding -half a pint of brown gravy (No. 177), omitting the cream, and adding two -glasses of sherry. - - -198. _Mulligatawny Soup._--Cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a -stewpan, with a piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a -turnip, three onions, and six apples, add half a pint of water; set the -stewpan over a sharp fire, moving the meat round occasionally, let -remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze, -then add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one of curry paste, and -half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill the stewpan with a gallon -of water; add a spoonful of salt, the half of one of sugar, when -boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, and let it simmer two hours -and a half, skimming off all the fat as it rises, then pass it through a -tammy into a tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, and put it back in -the stewpan to boil, and serve with plain boiled rice separate. Ox-tails -or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c., left from a previous dinner may be -served in it instead of the veal. The veal is exceedingly good to eat. - - -199. _Giblet Soup._--Clean two sets of giblets, which soak for two -hours, cut them into equal sizes, and put them into a stewpan, with a -quarter of a pound of butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound -of ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, two ounces of salt, and a -bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; place the stewpan over a sharp -fire, stirring the meat round occasionally; when the bottom of the -stewpan is covered with a light glaze, add a quarter of a pound of -flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add about a -pint of brown gravy (No. 177), stir occasionally until boiling, then set -it at the corner of the stove to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; when -the giblets are tender, take them out, put them into your tureen, pass -the soup through a hair sieve over, and serve; twenty cooked button -onions, or any small-shaped vegetables served in it, is very good, as is -also a glass of port wine. - - -200. _Oyster Soup._--Put four dozen of oysters into a stewpan with their -liquor, place them upon the fire, when upon the point of boiling, drain -them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin; take off the beards, -which put into the liquor, putting the oysters into a soup tureen; then -put a quarter of a pound of butter into another stewpan over the fire, -and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir over a slow fire for a -short time, but keeping it quite white; let it cool, then add the liquor -and beards of the oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of stock (No. -175), stir over the fire until boiling, then season with a teaspoonful -of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, five peppercorns, half a -blade of mace, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, half ditto of essence of -anchovies; let boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, skim it well, -add a gill of cream, if handy, strain through a hair sieve over the -oysters, and serve. - - -201. _The Fisherman's Soup._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a -stewpan, and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir well together -over a slow fire a few minutes, when cool, add one quart of milk, and -two quarts of stock (No. 175), stir over a fire until boiling; having -previously filleted two soles, add the bones and trimmings to the soup, -with four cloves, one blade of mace, two bay-leaves, one spoonful of -essence of anchovies, one ditto of Harvey sauce, half a saltspoonful of -cayenne, a little sugar and salt if required; let the whole boil quickly -at the corner for ten minutes, keeping it well skimmed; cut each fillet -of sole into six pieces, put them into another stewpan, with half a -handful of picked parsley, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, boil -again ten minutes, add a gill of cream, if handy, and it is ready to -serve. - - -202. _Autumn Soup._--Cut up four cabbage-lettuces, one cos ditto, a -handful of sorrel, and a little tarragon and chervil, when well washed -and drained, put them into a stewpan, with two cucumbers finely sliced, -and two ounces of butter, place them over a brisk fire, stirring -occasionally, until very little liquid remains, then add two -tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring it well in, then pour over three -quarts of stock, made as directed (No. 175), adding a quart of young and -fresh green peas; half an hour's boiling will suffice for this delicious -soup, and the flavor of the vegetables will be fully preserved; season -with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar. - - -203. _Hodge Podge._--Cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mutton into small -pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water and a -tablespoonful of salt, set it upon the fire, and when boiling place it -at the corner to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; let it simmer an hour, -then add a good-sized carrot, two turnips, two large onions cut into -small dice, and six cabbage-lettuces, if in season (the whole well -washed), and let simmer until quite tender; skim off all the fat, and -serve either with the meat in the soup or separately. If in season, a -pint of green peas boiled in the soup is a great improvement. - - -204. _French Cabbage Soup._--This is a soup very much in vogue amongst -the middle classes of the French people; it is very economical, and may -satisfy a numerous family at a trifling expense. Put a gallon of water -into a saucepan, with two pounds of streaky pickled pork or bacon, -whichever most convenient, to which add a couple of pounds of white -cabbage, cut in strips (using every part but the stalk, and previously -well washed), two large onions, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of -celery; let the whole boil three or four hours, until the pork is -tender, skimming off all the fat, season with a little black pepper, -brown sugar, and salt, if required (which is not very frequently the -case, the pork or bacon generally being sufficiently so), lay slices of -bread in your tureen (about one pound), pour the soup over; keep the -tureen covered ten minutes, until the bread is soaked, and it is ready -to serve. The pork or bacon may be either served separate or cut into -small square pieces, and served in the soup. A few mealy potatoes are -sometimes introduced, or a quart of large green peas, or a pint of dry -split peas. You must observe that vegetables in France are much more -used than in this country, as there are but few poor people there who do -not possess a little garden, in which they grow their own. - -It is also frequently made _maigre_ by omitting the pork or bacon, -adding more vegetables of all kinds, and a quarter of a pound of butter, -and frequently where they have nothing else but cabbage, they make it -only of that; now setting all national feeling aside respecting the -poverty of their meals, I have known strong healthy men make a hearty -meal of it, preferring it to meat, of which they scarcely ever partake. - - -205. _Puree of Vegetable Soup._--Peel and cut up very finely three -onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, which put into a -stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, and -a bunch of parsley; pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, when add a -good spoonful of flour, which mix well in, add two quarts of stock, and -a pint of boiling milk, stir it until boiling; season with a little salt -and sugar, rub it through a tammy, put it into another stewpan, boil -again, skim and serve with croutons of fried bread as for Palestine -Soup. It ought to be thickish. - - -206. _Palestine Soup, or Puree of Artichokes._--Have a quarter of a -pound of lean bacon or ham, as also an onion, a turnip, and a little -celery, cut the whole into small thin slices, and put them into a -stewpan, with two ounces of butter; place them over a sharp fire, -keeping them stirred, about twenty minutes, or until forming a whitish -glaze at the bottom, then have ready washed, peeled, and cut into thin -slices, the artichokes, which put into the stewpan with a pint of broth -or water, and stew until quite tender, then mix in two tablespoonfuls of -flour quite smoothly, add two quarts of stock made as directed (No. -175), and half a pint of milk; keep it constantly stirred until boiling; -season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar, then rub it through -a tammy, place it again in a stewpan; let it boil five minutes, keeping -it well skimmed, and serve with very small croutons of bread (fried in -butter, and dried upon a cloth) in the tureen; a gill of cream, stirred -in at the moment of serving, is a great improvement, although it may be -omitted. - - -207. _Puree of Cauliflower Soup._--Proceed as described for the puree of -artichokes, but omitting the artichokes, and substituting four -middling-sized cauliflowers, previously boiled and chopped fine. - -A puree of turnips is likewise made in the same manner as a puree of -artichokes, substituting turnips for artichokes, and adding half a -tablespoonful more of flour. A puree of white Belgian carrot, called -"Crecy a la Reine," is made in the same way, and is uncommon and -delicate. - - -208. _Crecy Soup, or Puree of Carrots._--Procure five or six large -carrots, as red as possible, which well scrape, then shave them into -very thin slices, taking off all the exterior red, but not using the -centre, then peel and slice a large onion, a turnip, a quarter of a -pound of lean ham, a few sprigs of parsley, and two bay-leaves; put them -into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, fry the whole of a light -yellowish color, then add the carrot, with a pint of water, and let them -stew until perfectly tender, mix in two ounces of flour quite smoothly, -and add five pints of stock (No. 175); season with a little salt and -sugar, and stir upon the fire until boiling, a quarter of an hour, when -pass it through a tammy, and finish and serve as in the preceding; no -cream, however, must be added. This soup ought to be of a red color. - - -209. _Green Pea Soup._--Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan -with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, -cut into small dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley; -add a quart of cold water, and with the hands rub all well together; -then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close, and stand it over a -sharp fire, stirring the contents round occasionally; when very tender, -add two tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well in mashing the peas with -your spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add two quarts of stock, or -broth from the Pot-au-feu, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little pepper -and salt, if required; boil all well together five minutes, when rub it -through a tammy or hair sieve; then put it into another stewpan, with a -pint of boiling milk; boil five minutes, skim well, and pour it into -your tureen. It must not be too thick, serve with croutons of bread as -for Palestine. - - -210. _Winter Pea Soup._--Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a -stewpan, with half a pound of streaky bacon, two onions in slices, two -pounds of veal or beef, cut into small pieces, and a little parsley, -thyme, and bay-leaf, add a gallon of water, with a little salt and -sugar, place it upon the fire, and when boiling, stand it at the side -until the peas are boiled to a puree, and the water has reduced to half, -then take out the meat, which put upon a dish, to be eaten with the -bacon, keeping it hot, rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy, put -it into another stewpan, and when boiling, serve. The meat may also be -served in the tureen if approved of. Maigre pea soup may also be made by -omitting the meat, adding half a pound of butter, one quart of milk, and -omitting a quart of water. - - -211. _Lentil Soup._--Cut three onions, a turnip, and the half of a -carrot into very thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter -of a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and two -bay-leaves, add also two pounds of leg of beef, cut into small dice; set -the stewpan upon the fire, stirring with a wooden spoon, until its -contents are fried rather brownish, when add one quart of lentils, and -three of water, let the whole simmer until the lentils are very tender, -when season with nearly an ounce of salt, and half that quantity of -sugar; it is then ready to serve. - -To make a puree of lentils:--when the soup is made, strain off the -broth, add a good spoonful of flour to the lentils, which mash with a -wooden spoon against the side of the stewpan; then again put in the -broth, boil all up together, keeping it stirred with a spoon; rub it -through a tammy or hair sieve, again boil and skim, and it is ready; -serve with a few croutons of bread, as directed for Palestine soup. - - -212. _Maigre Soup._--Cut two onions into very small dice, and put them -into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; fry them a short time, but -not to discolor them; have ready three or four handfuls of well-washed -sorrel, which cut into ribands and put into the stewpan with the onions, -add one tablespoonful of flour, then mix well a pint of milk and a quart -of water; boil altogether twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season -with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt, take it from the fire, and stir in -quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream or -milk (it must not boil afterwards), put the crust of a French roll, cut -into strips, in the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve very hot. - - -213. _Onion Soup Maigre._--Peel and cut six large onions into small -dice, put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, -place them over the fire until well fried, when well mix in a -tablespoonful of flour, and rather better than a quart of water; boil -until the onions are quite tender, season with a spoonful of salt and a -little sugar; finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last. - - -214. _Hare Soup._--Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, and, when -melted, add three quarters of a pound of flour, and half a pound of -streaky bacon, cut into very small pieces; keep stirring over the fire -until becoming lightly browned. You have previously cut up a hare into -neat smallish pieces; put them into the stewpan, and keep stirring round -over the fire, until they are set; then fill it up with five quarts of -water, add two onions, a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and -bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and four cloves; when boiling, season with -one ounce of salt and a little pepper, and let it simmer at the corner -until the pieces of hare are done, which would be in about an hour if a -young hare, but double that time if a very old one; the better plan is -to try a piece occasionally. When done, take out the best pieces, and -the inferior ones pound in a mortar, removing the bones, put it back in -the soup, and pass all through a tammy, boil for ten minutes, and put it -again into a stewpan, and serve. The above quantity would be sufficient -for two tureens. A glass of wine may be added. Rabbit, pheasant, grouse, -partridge, and other game soups, may be made in the same way. - - -215. _French Pot-au-feu._--Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite -soup and bouilli, which has been everlastingly famed as having been the -support of many generations of all classes of society in France; from -the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its -excellence and worth. In fact this soup and bouilli is to the French -what the roast beef and plum-pudding is on a Sunday to the English. No -dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to -be made without the pot-au-feu. - -The following is the receipt:--Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef, -four quarts of water, set near the fire, skim; when nearly boiling add a -spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four -turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions -and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip, skim again, -and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and -then; take off part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay -half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat -separate with the vegetables around. - - -CRAB SOUP.--We add to the list of M. Soyer's soups, a receipt for a -purely American soup, a great favorite at the South, and esteemed a -great luxury by those who have eaten of it--ED. - -[Open and cleanse twelve young fat crabs (raw), and cut them into two -parts; parboil and extract the meat from the claws, and the fat from the -top shell. Scald eighteen ripe tomatos; skin them and squeeze the pulp -from the seed, and chop it fine; pour boiling water over the seed and -juice, and having strained it from the seed, use it to make the soup. -Stew a short time in the soup-pot three large onions, one clove of -garlic, in one spoonful of butter, two spoonfuls of lard, and then put -in the tomatos, and after stewing a few minutes, add the meat from the -crab claws, then the crabs, and last the fat from the back shell of the -crab; sift over it grated bread-crumbs or crackers. Season with salt, -Cayenne and black pepper, parsley, sweet marjoram, thyme, half -teaspoonful lemon juice, and the peel of a lemon; pour in the water with -which the seed were scalded, and boil it moderately one hour. - -Any firm fish may be substituted for the crab.] - - - - -FISH. - - - Of all aliments that have been given to the human race for - nourishment, none are more abundant or more easy of procuring than - this antediluvian species, and yet of how few do we make use, and - how slight is our knowledge of their habits, for it is only within - the last few years that the idea was exploded that the herrings - made an annual migration from the Arctic seas to deposit their - spawn on the shores of the British islands. It possesses, according - to its kind, a greater or less degree of nourishment, depending, - like the animal, in a great measure on those beautiful meadows at - the bottom of the ocean, where it feeds; for even those which live - upon some of a smaller kind, as the cod on the haddock, that on the - whiting, and that again on the mussel, or other crustaceous fish, - which move but little from the place where they were originally - spawned, derive their nourishment from the herbs and the animalculae - which those herbs produce that lay around them; the cod on the - southeast of the Bank of Newfoundland is as fine again in flavor as - that on the north-west side. Fish, of course, do not afford the - same amount of nourishment as meat, as they contain but a slight - quantity of osmazome; but its flesh is refreshing, and often - exciting. A curious circumstance has been observed in respect to - the animate parts of the creation which draw their nourishment from - fish, as in birds and the human race, that they produce more - females when doing so than males. - - It ought to be made an article of diet more often than it is, as - the particles it contains tend to purify the blood from the - grossness it receives in partaking of animal food; and when taken - at the commencement of dinner, tends to assist the digestion of - those substances which form the more substantial part of the meal. - - In the receipts will be found those which I consider fit for the - table; but, as a general rule to be observed, as in the feathered - tribe, all those of beautiful _variegated_ colors are more unfit to - eat than any other; as if the great Creator of all, in order to - please man, had destined some for his nourishment, and others to - gratify his senses by their melodious notes and beautiful plumage. - - Nothing indicates its freshness so well as fish; the merest novice - ought to know it; their gills should be difficult to open, be red, - and swell well; fins tight and close; eyes bright, and not sunk: - the contrary to this denotes their being stale. - - Of the round fish, the SALMON is considered the best and most - delicate in flavor, but varies considerably, according to the river - in which it is caught; for there is no doubt but that it returns to - the river where it was originally spawned, and its time of spawning - varies in different rivers. The male is the finest flavored fish, - and has more curd than the female. Of late years it has been - considered that this fish should be eaten as fresh as possible, for - which purpose it is crimped when alive, that it may be flaky, and - the curd in it. In former times, it was considered best to keep it - two or three days; it is certain that, in keeping it, the curd - undergoes a change, which produces a volatile salt, oily and - balsamic particles, render it nutritive and invigorating; it is - diuretic, pectoral, and restorative, and if eaten too profusely - produces vomiting; but when the curd is in it, the flesh is hard - and dry, lies heavy on the stomach, and produces indigestion. This - fish, when out of season, may be distinguished by having large - scarlet, purple, and blue spots on its sides, the male snout long, - the female snout hooked. When in season, the color ought to be a - silvery pink gray; when cooked, the flesh should be of a dark rose - color; when out of season it is pale; small-headed fish are the - best. - - This fish was known to the Romans, who received it from Aquitaine - and the Moselle. - - -216. _Salmon, plain boiled._--I prefer always dressing this fish in -slices from an inch to two inches in thickness, boiling it in plenty of -salt water about twenty minutes; the whole fish may be boiled, or the -head and shoulders of a large fish, but they require longer boiling. -Salmon eats firmer by not being put into the water until boiling. Dress -the fish upon a napkin, and serve with lobster sauce, shrimp ditto, or -plain melted butter in a boat, with fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few -minutes in it. A salmon weighing about ten pounds will require an hour's -gentle boiling; a head and shoulders weighing six pounds, half an hour; -the remains may be dressed a la creme, as directed for the turbot. - - -217. _Salmon, Sauce Matelote._--Cook three good slices of salmon as -directed in the last, or a large salmon peal trussed in the form of the -letter S, dress it upon a dish without a napkin, having previously -drained off all the water; have ready one quart of matelote sauce, under -or over. - -To broil salmon, dip each piece in flour, put it on a gridiron, fifteen -minutes will give it a nice pale color; it should be served with Dutch -or caper sauce. - - - _Cod._--This fish, like the former, belongs to the northern parts - of the world; its flavor and quality, like terrestrial animals, - depend greatly on its feeding-place, a few miles making a marked - difference; it is exceedingly voracious. Those are best with a - small head and thick at the neck. - - -218. _To boil Cod Fish._--Crimped cod, as I have before remarked, is -preferable to the plain; it is likewise better cut in slices than cooked -whole; to boil it well, have the water ready boiling, with one pound of -salt to every six quarts, put in your fish, draw the fish-kettle to the -corner of the fire, where let it simmer slowly from twenty minutes to -half an hour, when done, the bone in the centre will draw out easily; if -boiled too much, it would eat tough and stringy; should the fish not be -crimped, add more salt to the water, it will cause the fish to eat -firmer. - - -219. _Cod Fish sauced over with Oyster Sauce._--Boil three slices of the -fish as above, drain and dress them upon a dish without a napkin, blanch -three dozen oysters, by putting them into a stewpan, with their juice, -upon the fire, move them round occasionally, do not let them boil; as -soon as they become a little firm, place a sieve over a basin, pour in -the oysters, beard and throw them again into their liquor, put them into -a stewpan; when boiling, add two cloves, half a blade of mace, six -peppercorns, and two ounces of butter, to which you have added a -tablespoonful of flour, breaking it into small pieces, stir well -together, when boiling, season with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and -essence of anchovies, finish with a gill of cream or milk, and sauce -over. The remains of this fish may be taken from the bone and placed -upon a dish, with a little of the above sauce (to which you have added -the yolks of two eggs) over, sprinkle over with bread-crumbs, and place -it twenty minutes in a hot oven, till the bread-crumbs become brown. - - -220. _Salt Fish._--Choose the fish with a black skin, and be particular -in soaking it well; to boil, put it into a fish-kettle, with plenty of -cold water, place it over the fire, and the moment it boils remove it to -the corner, to simmer until done, which, if a piece weighing about three -pounds, would be in about twenty minutes; do not let it boil fast, or -the fish would eat hard and thready; dish it upon a napkin, with plain -boiled parsnips and parsley round, and serve egg sauce in a boat. - - - _Haddock_, the callarias and galeris of the Romans. This is also - the fish that it is said St. Peter took the tribute money from, and - thus gave the impression of his finger and thumb, where it remains - in confirmation of the miracle. It has a very fine flavor when - fresh and in season, which is when the roe is very small; the time - depends on the place where taken, but generally about October. I - think one weighing from six to seven pounds is the best size, - although I have had them at twelve pounds. The same features as in - the cod will tell if they are fresh. - - -221. _Haddock._--This is a fish which I can highly recommend, both for -its firmness and lightness; it is excellent plain boiled, and served -with a cream sauce or any other fish sauce. But the better plan is to -cut four or five incisions upon each side of the fish, an inch deep, -then put it into a deep dish, and cover well with salt, let it remain -about two hours, then put the fish in boiling water, to simmer from -thirty to forty minutes; if a fish of five or six pounds in weight, dish -it on a napkin garnished with plain boiled parsnips and parsley, with -egg sauce in a boat. - - -222. _Baked Haddock._--Fill the interior of the fish with veal stuffing, -sew it up with packthread, and truss it with the tail in its mouth, rub -a piece of butter over the back, or egg and bread-crumb it over, set it -on a baking-dish, which put in a warmish oven to bake, if a Dublin bay -haddock, it would take from three quarters of an hour to an hour, but a -common haddock would require but half an hour; the better plan is to run -the point of a knife down to the backbone, from which, if the flesh -parts easily, it is done, when dress it upon a dish without a napkin, -and serve a Beyrout sauce, or any other, round. - - - _Sturgeon_ derives its name from the German _stoeren_, to stir, to - rake up; it is from the same word we derive our word _stir_. It is - the accipenser of the Romans. This fish has long been in use in - England, but, from its scarcity, it has always been - expensive--indeed, it has been considered as a royal fish; for - every one caught in the rivers of England belongs to the Queen, - with the exception of the river Thames, which belongs to the Lord - Mayor. The flavor of the young sturgeon is extremely delicate, but - that materially depends upon the river in which it is caught, as it - feeds upon the insects and plants,--in fact, entirely by suction; - those caught in rapid rivers and sandy bottoms, and where they have - the advantage of salt and fresh water, are the best. - - -223. _Economical mode of cooking Sturgeon._--Take a piece of sturgeon -about two pounds weight, and on sending a piece of meat to the baker's -to be baked on a stand in a dish, put the sturgeon under it, with a -little water, salt, pepper, &c., and a little chopped eschalot may be -used; you can also put potatoes round it. Peas, if in season, are a good -accompaniment, with melted butter. - - -224. _To roast Sturgeon._--Take the tail part, skin and bone it; fill -the part where the bone comes from with some stuffing, as for a fillet -of veal; put butter and paper round it, and tie it up like a fillet of -veal; roast, and serve it with melted butter and gravy. - - They may be cooked precisely as veal, in large or small pieces, as - for fricandeau, papillote, &c., and even salted, in imitation of - tunny. - - - _Mackerel._--This is generally recognized as the scomber of the - Romans, by whom it was much esteemed; at the present day it is not - held in that high estimation that it was some years since: the - great supply which is now received from different parts of the - coast at all seasons of the year may have a tendency to cause this. - It is a fish which requires to be eaten very fresh, and soon - becomes tainted. The soft roe of this fish is highly esteemed, and - I have no doubt but that it was equally so with the Romans, and I - believe it was an ingredient of the garum. When fresh, their skin - is of a sea-green color, and very beautiful; fine bright golden - eyes, and gills very red; they should be plump, but not too large; - they should be cleaned by cutting their gills, so that, when - pulled, the interior of the fish will come with them; wipe them - well, cut off the fins, and trim the tail. - - -225. _Mackerel_ are generally served plain boiled; put them in a kettle -containing boiling water, well salted, let simmer nearly half an hour, -take them up, drain, and dish them upon a napkin; serve melted butter in -a boat, with which you have mixed a tablespoonful of chopped fennel, -boiling it a few minutes. - - -226. _Mackerel a la Maitre d'Hotel._--Cut an incision down the back of a -mackerel, close to the bone, season it with a little pepper, salt, and -cayenne, if approved of, butter the skin well, and place the fish upon a -gridiron over a moderate fire, for about twenty minutes, turning it over -when half done; when done, have ready two ounces of maitre d'hotel -butter, half of which put in the incision at the back, previously -putting the mackerel upon a hot dish without a napkin, spread the other -half over; place it in the oven a few minutes, and serve very hot. - - -227. _Mackerel au Beurre Noir._--Split the mackerel open at the back, -making it quite flat, season with a little pepper and salt, and butter -it all over, lay it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it -when half done, for about a quarter of an hour, when place it upon a -dish without a napkin, then put six ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan, -which place over a sharp fire until the butter becomes black, but not -burnt, when throw in about fifty leaves of picked parsley, which fry -crisp, and pour over the fish, put three tablespoonfuls of common -vinegar into the stewpan, which boil half a minute, season with pepper -and salt, pour this also over the fish, which put into the oven five -minutes, and serve very hot. - - -228. _To stew Mackerel._--Take off the heads, the fins, and tails, and, -having opened the fish and taken out all the hard roes, dry them with a -cloth and dredge them lightly with flour; place three or four of them in -a stewpan, with a lump of butter, the size of a walnut, to each fish; -put into a small basin a teacupful of water, a tablespoonful of -finely-chopped onions, the same of chopped parsley, a blade or two of -mace, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, and -a small teacupful of ale or porter (if not bitter). Add a tablespoonful -of grated bread-crust, not burnt, but a light brown; pour all these -ingredients over the fish, and let them stew gently for twenty minutes; -have ready the yolks of three eggs, well-beaten, and when the fish is -sufficiently done, take some of the gravy and mix gradually with the -eggs, and, pouring them on the fish, shake the stewpan a little over the -fire to thicken the whole, but not to curdle the eggs; the soft roes -added are an improvement: have ready more grated crust, and having -placed the fish whole in the dish, shake a little of the grated crust -over the whole, so as to make it of a handsome brown. The Receipt -requires to be carefully followed. If the gravy is too thick, more water -may be added; also a glass of sherry, if liked. - - -229. _Fried Whiting._--The whiting is generally skinned, and the tail -turned round and fixed into the mouth; dip it first into flour, then egg -over and dip it into bread-crumbs, fry as directed for the sole; for -whiting aux fines herbes, proceed as directed for sole aux fines herbes. -I prefer the whiting fried with their skins on, merely dipping them in -flour. - - -230. _Whiting au Gratin._--Put a good spoonful of chopped onions upon a -strong earthen dish, with a glass of wine, season the whiting with a -little pepper and salt, put it in the dish, sprinkle some chopped -parsley and chopped mushrooms over, and pour over half a pint of anchovy -sauce, over which sprinkle some brown bread-crumbs, grated from the -crust of bread, place it in a warm oven half an hour; it requires to be -nicely browned; serve upon the dish you have cooked it in. - - -231. _Red Mullets._--Procure two red mullets, which place upon a strong -dish, not too large, sprinkle a little chopped onions, parsley, a little -pepper and salt, and a little salad-oil over, and put them into a warm -oven for half an hour, then put half a tablespoonful of chopped onions -in a stewpan, with a teaspoonful of salad-oil, stir over a moderate fire -until getting rather yellowish, then add a tablespoonful of sherry, half -a pint of white sauce or melted butter, with a little chopped parsley; -reduce over a sharp fire, keeping it stirred until becoming rather -thick; when the mullets are done, sauce over and serve. - - -232. _Red Mullet en papillote._--Cut a sheet of foolscap paper in the -form of a heart, lay it on the table and oil it, put the mullet on one -side, season with salt, pepper, and chopped eschalot, fold the paper -over and plait both edges together, and broil on a slow fire for half an -hour, turning carefully now and then; serve without a napkin; they are -excellent done thus, without sauce, but, if any is required, use melted -butter, cream Hollandaise, anchovy or Italian sauce. - - -233. _Red Mullets saute in Butter._--Put two ounces of butter in a pan; -when melted, put in one or two small mullets, and season with a -teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, and the juice of half a -lemon; set it on a slow fire and turn carefully; when done, dish and -serve plain, or with any of the sauces named in the former receipt. - - - _Herrings_, when in season, that is, when the roe is just forming, - are most excellent and wholesome fish, when eaten fresh; I have - this day (the 25th of April) partaken of some, caught in - twenty-four fathoms of water, about twelve miles off the coast of - Folkestone, in which you could just distinguish the formation of - the roe. The richness of the fish at this period is extraordinary, - and renders it worthy the table of the greatest epicure. - - As this fish is now of so great importance as an article of food, I - shall refer more at length to it in my letters on pickling and - preserving, and give you a description of my new plan of curing and - smoking, and also what I consider its medicinal and other - properties. Its different modes of cooking are as follows: - - -234. _Herrings boiled._--Boil six herrings about twenty minutes in -plenty of salt and water, but only just to simmer; then have ready the -following sauce: put half a gill of cream upon the fire in a stewpan; -when it boils, add eight spoonfuls of melted butter, an ounce of fresh -butter, a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; dress the -fish upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over and serve. - - -235. _Herrings broiled, Sauce Dijon._--The delicacy of these fish -prevents their being dressed in any other way than boiled or broiled; -they certainly can be bread-crumbed and fried, but scarcely any person -would like them; I prefer them dressed in the following way: wipe them -well with a cloth, and cut three incisions slantwise upon each side, -dip them in flour and broil slowly over a moderate fire; when done, -sprinkle a little salt over, dress them upon a napkin, garnish with -parsley, and serve the following sauce in a boat: put eight -tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with two of French -mustard, or one of English, an ounce of fresh butter, and a little -pepper and salt; when upon the point of boiling, serve. - - - _Smelts._--Many have confounded them with the salmon-fry or smelt - of one year old, whereas the smelt has roe and the fry none; it - ascends rivers to deposit its spawn in November, December, and - January, and the rest of the year they are considered in season, - but they vary like the salmon, according to the river. This fish, - when fresh, has a beautiful smell of violets or cucumbers, but the - Germans call it stinck fish, I know not why; they lose this perfume - in about twelve hours after being taken; they should be very stiff - and firm, bright eyes, and transparent skin. This fish is very - delicate, and requires very great attention in cleaning, merely - pulling out the gills, the inside will come with them; they should - be wiped lightly. When split and dried, they are called sparlings. - -236. _To fry Smelts._--Dry them in a cloth, and dip them in flour; then -have half an ounce of butter of clear fat melted in a basin, into which -break the yolk of two eggs, with which rub the smelts over with a brush, -dip them in bread-crumbs, fry in very hot lard, dress them on a napkin, -garnish with parsley, and serve with shrimp sauce in a boat. - - - _White Bait._--This is a fish which belongs especially to London; - although it is obtainable in other rivers in Great Britain and the - Continent, yet it is not sought for; great difference of opinion - exists amongst naturalists as to what fish this is the young of; in - my humble opinion, I think it is a species distinct of itself, - having a life of short duration. It is caught only in brackish - water, floating up and down the river, according to the tide,--in - very dry summers as high up as Greenwich, and in very wet as low as - Gravesend. They spawn in winter, and make their appearance, about - one inch in length, early in March. They should be cooked as - follows: - -237. White Bait.--Put them in a cloth, which shake gently so as to dry -them; then place them in some very fine bread-crumbs and flour mixed; -toss them lightly with the hands, take them out immediately and put them -in a wire basket, and fry them in hot lard; one minute will cook them; -turn them out on a cloth, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve very -hot. Should you not have a wire basket, sprinkle them into the pan, and -as soon as they rise take them out. - - - _Turbot_ we consider the finest of flat-fish; and so it was, no - doubt, considered by the Romans: hence the proverb, "Nihil ad - rhombum," although Linnaeus, from his classification, would make us - believe it was the brill or bret, but I do not think so meanly of - the epicures of those days as to imagine it. Its flavor depends - greatly upon the place where taken, resulting from its food, - feeding principally upon young crabs and lobsters; therefore it is - not surprising that lobster sauce accompanies it when cooked. I - prefer them of a middling size, not too large, but thick, and if - bled when caught, so much the better. Should you be at the seaside, - and buy one rather cheap, because it has red spots on the belly, - remove them by rubbing salt and lemon on the spot. In my opinion - they are better, and more digestible, and of finer flavor, - forty-eight hours after being killed, than when fresh. - - -238. _Turbot._--To cook it; cut an incision in the back, rub it well -with a good handful of salt, and then with the juice of a lemon; set it -in a turbot kettle, well covered with cold water, in which you have put -a good handful of salt; place it over the fire, and as soon as boiling, -put it at the side (where it must not be allowed to more than simmer -very slowly, or the fish would have a very unsightly appearance). A -turbot of ten pounds weight will take about an hour to cook after it has -boiled (but, to be certain, ascertain whether the flesh will leave the -bone easily); take it out of the water, let it remain a minute upon the -drainer, and serve upon a napkin, with a few sprigs of fresh parsley -round, and lobster sauce or shrimp sauce, in a boat. - - -239. _Turbot, the new French fashion._--Boil your turbot as in the last, -but dress it upon a dish without a napkin, sauce over with a thick caper -sauce (having made a border of small new potatoes), sprinkle a few -capers over the fish, and serve. - - -240. _Turbot a la Creme_ is made from the remains of a turbot left from -a previous dinner; pick all the flesh from the bones, which warm in salt -and water, and have ready the following sauce: put one ounce of flour -into a stewpan, to which add by degrees a quart of milk, mixing it very -smoothly; then add two peeled eschalots, a bouquet of parsley, a -bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme tied together, a little grated nutmeg, a -teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper; place it over the -fire, stirring until it forms rather a thickish sauce, then take it from -the fire, stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and pass it -through a tammy; lay a little of it upon the bottom of a convenient -sized dish, then a layer of the fish, season lightly with a little white -pepper and salt, then another layer of sauce, proceeding thus until the -fish is all used, finishing with sauce; sprinkle a few bread-crumbs -over, and put it into a warm oven half an hour; brown with the -salamander, and serve upon the dish it is baked on. Any remains of -boiled fish may be dressed the same way. - - -241. _Soles fried._--Have about four pounds of lard or clean fat in a -small fish-kettle, which place over a moderate fire, then cut off the -fins of the sole, and dip it into flour, shake part of the flour off, -have an egg well beaten upon a plate, with which brush the fish all -over, and cover it with bread-crumbs; ascertain if the lard is hot, by -throwing in a few bread-crumbs, it will hiss if sufficiently hot, put in -the fish, which will require nearly ten minutes cooking, and ought to be -perfectly crisp, drain it on a cloth, dish upon a napkin, garnish with -parsley, and serve shrimp sauce in a boat. - -The above quantity of lard or fat, if carefully used and not burnt, -would do for several occasions, by straining it off each time after -using. All kinds of fish, such as eels, smelts, whitings, flounders, -perch, gudgeons, &c., are fried precisely in the same manner. - - -242. _Soles, saute in Oil._--Trim the fish well, dip it into a couple of -eggs, well beaten, put six tablespoonfuls of salad-oil in a saute-pan, -place it over the fire, and when quite hot put in your sole, let it -remain five minutes, turn over, and saute upon the other side, ten or -twelve minutes will cook it, according to the size; serve upon a napkin -without sauce; they are excellent cold. - - -243. _Sole a la Meuniere._--Cut the fins off a sole, and make four -incisions across it upon each side with a knife, then rub half a -tablespoonful of salt and chopped onions well into it, dip in flour, and -broil it over a slow fire; also have ready two ounces of fresh butter, -mixed with the juice of a lemon, and a little cayenne, which rub over -the sole, previously laid in a hot dish, without a napkin, turn the fish -over once or twice, put it in the oven a minute, and serve very hot. - - -244. _Soles aux fines herbes._--Put a spoonful of chopped eschalots into -a saute-pan, with a glass of sherry and an ounce of butter, place the -sole over, pour nearly half a pint of melted butter over it, or four -spoonfuls of brown gravy or water, upon which sprinkle some chopped -parsley, place it in a moderate oven for half an hour, take the sole out -of the pan, dress upon a dish without a napkin, reduce the sauce that is -in the pan over a sharp fire, add a little Harvey sauce and essence of -anchovy, pour over the sole, and serve. - -Soles may also be plain boiled, using the same precautions as directed -for turbot, and serve without a napkin, and a cream sauce poured over; -or it may be served upon a napkin garnished with parsley, and a little -shrimp sauce, or plain melted butter, in a boat. - - -245. _Flounders, Water Souchet._--Procure four or six Thames flounders, -trim and cut in halves; put half a pint of water in a saute-pan, with a -little scraped horseradish, a little pepper, salt, sugar, and forty -sprigs of fresh parsley; place over the fire, boil a minute, then add -the flounders, stew ten minutes, take them out and place in a dish -without a napkin, reduce the liquor they were stewed in a little, pour -over and serve. - -To fry flounders, trim them, and proceed precisely as directed for fried -soles: three minutes is sufficient. - - - _Skate_, also called _Maid_, _Ray_, is not appreciated equal to - what it ought to be; we generally have only the fin part, which is - cut off and put into fresh water, where it curls up. It is a very - invigorating fish, and I think deserves the attention of the - medical profession. It is best cooked as follows: - -246. _Skate._--Procure two or three slices, tie them with string to keep -the shape in boiling, put them into a kettle of boiling water, in which -you have put a good handful of salt; boil gently about twenty minutes -(have ready also a piece of the liver, which boil with them); when done, -drain well, and put them upon a dish without a napkin; put three parts -of a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, place it upon the fire, and -when quite hot add a wineglassful of capers, sauce over, and serve. - - -247. _Skate au Beurre Noir._--Boil a piece of skate as directed in the -last; when done, drain it well, put it upon a dish without a napkin, and -proceed exactly as directed for mackerel au beurre noir. - -Skate may also be served upon a napkin, with a boat of well-seasoned -melted butter, to which you have added a spoonful of Harvey sauce and -one of anchovy. - - - _Pike._--This fish spawns in March and April, according to the - season. When in perfection, their colors are very bright, being - green, spotted with bright yellow, and the gills are a bright red; - when out of season, the green changes to gray, and the yellow spots - assume a pale hue. It may be called the shark of fresh water. Those - caught in a river or running stream are far superior to those - caught in ponds, which often get too fat, and taste muddy. A - middling-sized one, weighing about five pounds, would be best; when - fresh, the eyes must be very transparent, the scales bluish, and - not dry upon the back, or it would not clean well. The dressing is - generally the making of the fish, as regards the approbation - bestowed upon it. To clean them, have a sharp-pointed knife, put - the point carefully under the scales (without piercing the skin) at - the tail of the fish, pass the knife gently up the back to the - head, dividing the scales from the skin carefully; you may then - take off the whole of the scales in one piece (should this process - appear too difficult, they may be scraped off in the ordinary way, - it will not look so white, but would eat equally as good); then - make two incisions in the belly, a small one close to the bladder, - and a larger one above; pull out the gills one at a time with a - strong cloth, and if the interior does not come with them, take it - out from the incisions, and wash the fish well; the cutting off the - fins is quite a matter of taste: it is usually done. - - -248. _Pike._--Clean as directed above, stuff the interior as directed -for haddocks, only adding some fillets of anchovies and chopped -lemon-peel with it; curl round and put in a baking-dish, spread a little -butter all over, put in a moderate oven, when about half done egg over -with a paste-brush, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it; a middling-sized -pike will take about an hour, but that according to the size and the -heat of the oven; when done, dress upon a dish without a napkin, and -sauce round as directed for baked haddock above referred to. - - -249. _Pike, Sauce Matelote._--Cook a pike exactly as in the last, dress -it upon a dish without a napkin, and sauce with a matelote sauce over, -made as directed for salmon sauce matelote. - -This fish may also be served with caper sauce, as directed for the -skate; the smaller ones are the best; the remains of a pike placed in -the oven the next day, with a cover over it and a little more sauce -added, is very nice. - - -250. _Baked Carp._--Procure a good-sized carp, stuff it, then put it -into a baking-dish, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, one head of -celery, and a good bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; moisten with -two glasses of port wine, half a pint of water, salt, pepper, and oil, -and put it into a moderate oven about two hours to bake; try if done -with a knife, which is the case if the flesh leaves the bone easily, -dress upon a dish without a napkin, then have ready the following sauce: -mince a large Spanish onion with two common ones, and put them into a -stewpan with three spoonfuls of salad-oil, saute rather a yellow color, -add two glasses of port wine and one spoonful of flour, mix all well -together, add a pint of broth (reserved from some soup) or water, with -half an ounce of glaze, or half a gill of brown gravy, or a few drops of -coloring, boil it up, drain the stock the carp was cooked in from the -vegetables, which also add to the sauce; boil well at the corner of the -stove, skim, and when rather thick add a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce, -one of essence of anchovies, twelve pickled mushrooms, and a little -cayenne pepper, pour all the liquor drained from the fish out of your -dish, sauce over, and serve. - - -251. _Carp, Sauce Matelote._--Put your carp in a small oval fish-kettle, -with wine and vegetables as in the last, to which add also a pint of -water and a little salt, with a few cloves and peppercorns; put the lid -upon the fish-kettle, and stand it over a moderate fire to stew about -an hour, according to the size; when done, drain well, dress upon a dish -without a napkin, and sauce over with a matelote sauce, made as directed -for salmon sauce matelote, or caper sauce, as for skate; small carp are -very good-flavored, bread-crumbed and fried. - - - _Trout._--There are several kinds, none of which, it seems, were - known to the Romans. This is the salmon of fresh water, and bears a - very close resemblance to it in flavor. They grow to a very large - size; I partook of part of one weighing twenty-six pounds, which - was caught in the Lake of Killarney, in July, 1848. They have - different names in various parts of Great Britain, but there is the - common trout, the white trout, and the sea trout; the white trout - never grows very large, but the sea trout does, and is of a very - fine flavor. - - _River Trout_, when fresh, have the most beautiful skin imaginable, - the golden and sometimes silvery tint of which makes me term it the - sister fish of the red (sea) mullet; should the gills be pink - instead of red, and the skin dry (which is frequently the case on - the second day), they may still be eatable, but their succulence - goes with their beauty. Clean them as directed for salmon. - -252. _Trout a la Twickenham._--When you have cleaned your trout, put -them into a kettle of boiling water, to which you have added a good -handful of salt, and a wineglassful of vinegar; boil gently about twenty -minutes, or according to their size, dress upon a napkin, and serve -melted butter, into which you have put a tablespoonful of chopped -gherkins, two sprigs of chopped parsley, salt and pepper, in a boat. - -The remains of trout, salmon, or mackerel are excellent pickled:--put -three onions in slices in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, one -turnip, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, pass them five -minutes over the fire, add a pint of water and a pint of vinegar, two -teaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper, boil until the onions are -tender, then strain it through a sieve over the fish; it will keep some -time if required, and then do to pickle more fish by boiling over again. - - -253. _Trout a la Burton._--Boil the trout as in the last; then put half -a pint of melted butter in a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of cream, -place it upon the fire, and when upon the point of boiling add a liaison -of one yolk of egg mixed with a tablespoonful of cream (dress the fish -upon a dish without a napkin), put two ounces of fresh butter, a pinch -of salt, and the juice of a lemon into the sauce; shake round over the -fire, but do not let it boil; sauce over the fish, sprinkle some chopped -parsley, and serve. - - - _Perch_ were known to the Romans, and those they received from - Britain were considered the best. They do not grow to a very large - size, four pounds being considered a large one. When fresh, are - reddish at the eyes and gills. These fish, having a great objection - to part with their scales, must be scraped almost alive, forming - the fish into the shape of the letter S, and scraping with an - oyster-knife; open the belly, take out the interior, pull away the - gills, and wash well. When large, they are frequently boiled with - the scales on, and they are taken off afterwards, which is much - easier. - - -254. _Perch sauted in Butter._--Clean the fish as explained above, dry -well, make an incision upon each side with a knife, put a quarter of a -pound of butter in a saute-pan over a slow fire, lay in the fish, season -with salt, and saute gently, turning them over when half done; when -done, dress upon a napkin, and serve melted butter in a boat, or shrimp -sauce. Small ones should be dressed thus. - - -255. _Perch, Hampton Court fashion._--Cook the fish as above, and have -ready the following sauce: put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a -stewpan, with a little salt and the juice of a lemon; when upon the -point of boiling, stir in the yolk of an egg mixed with a tablespoonful -of cream; do not let it boil; blanch about twenty small sprigs of -parsley in boiling water ten minutes, and some small pieces of rind of -lemon for one minute, drain, and put them in the sauce, which pour over -the fish, and serve. - -Perch may also be served plain boiled or stewed as directed for tench, -with sauce served separate. - - -256. _Stewed Tench._--Put two onions, a carrot, and turnip, cut in -slices, into a stewpan, or very small fish-kettle, with a good bouquet -of parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, one bay-leaf, six cloves, a blade of -mace, a little salt and pepper, and two glasses of sherry; lay your -tench over (it will require four for a dish, and they may be either -cooked whole or each one cut into two or three pieces), add a pint of -water, cover down close, and stew rather gently over a slow fire for -about half an hour; take them out, drain upon a cloth, dress upon a dish -without a napkin, and pour a sauce over made as directed for sauce -matelote, cream sauce, or Beyrout. - - -257. _Tench with Anchovy Butter._--Cook the tench as in the last, but -they may be plain boiled in salt and water; dress upon a dish without a -napkin, then put six spoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, with one -of milk; place it upon the fire, and, when upon the point of boiling, -add an ounce of anchovy butter; shake it round over the fire until the -butter is melted, when sauce over and serve. - - - The _Eel_ is greatly esteemed in all countries, but it differs in - taste according to the river from whence it is taken; although we - have some very fine eels in the river Thames, yet our principal - supply is received from Holland, and the fish which come from - thence are much improved in flavor by the voyage, and even increase - in size. They arrive in the river Thames in vessels called eel - scootes (schuyts), of which four have been allowed, for centuries, - to moor opposite the Custom House, and the others are obliged to - remain in Erith Hole until there is room for them, which greatly - improves the fish: the value of those imported into London last - year amounted to 132,600_l._ Nothing is more difficult to kill than - eels; and it is only by knocking their heads upon a block or hard - substance, and stunning them, that they suffer least. Take the head - in your hand with a cloth, and just cut through the skin round the - neck, which turn down about an inch; then pull the head with one - hand, and the skin with the other, it will come off with facility; - open the belly, take out the interior without breaking the gall, - and cut off the bristles which run up the back. They are in season - all the year round. - - -258. _Eels, fried._--Cut your eels into pieces three inches long, dip -the pieces into flour, egg over with a paste brush, and throw them into -some bread-crumbs; fry in hot lard as directed for fried soles. - - -259. _Stewed Eels, Sauce Matelote._--Procure as large eels as possible, -which cut into pieces three inches long, and put them into a stewpan, -with an onion, a bouquet of two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme and -parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, a glass of sherry, and two of -water; place the stewpan over a moderate fire, and let simmer about -twenty minutes, or according to the size of the eels; when done, drain -upon a cloth, dress them in pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, with a -matelote sauce over, made as directed for salmon sauce matelote, but -using the stock your eels have been cooked in to make the sauce, having -previously well boiled it to extract all the fat. - - -260. _Eels a la Tartare._--Fry as directed above, and serve on some -Tartare sauce; or partly stew first, and, when cold, egg, bread-crumb, -and broil gently. - - -261. _Spitchcocked Eels_, in some parts of England, are cooked with the -skins on. They should be properly cleaned, and split down the back, and -bone taken out, and cut into pieces of about four inches long; egg the -inside and throw over some bread-crumbs, in which have been mixed some -chopped parsley, a little dried thyme, and some cayenne; place them in a -Dutch oven before the fire, and whilst cooking, baste them with butter -in which some essence of anchovies has been mixed. The time they take -cooking depends on the size, but may be known by the skin turning up. - - -262. _Conger Eel_ is little appreciated in this country, although -amongst the working class of our neighbors, more particularly the -French, it is an article of great consumption. If alive, its head should -be cut off, and it should bleed as much as possible; but if dead, the -pieces should be put into lukewarm water to disgorge previous to being -cooked. The young fry are exceedingly good, and may be dressed like -fresh-water eels. The large ones may be made into soup; and can also be -cooked like sturgeon. - - -263. _French Angler's way of Stewing Fish._--Take about four pounds or -less of all kinds of fish, that is, carp, pike, trout, tench, eels, &c., -or any one of them, cut them into nice middle-sized pieces, no matter -the size of the fish--let the pieces be of equal size; put them in a -black pot or stewpan, season over with nearly a tablespoonful of salt, -half one of pepper, half one of sugar, four good-sized onions, sliced -thin, add a half bottle of common French wine, or four glasses of port -or sherry, half a pint of water, set it on the fire to stew, gently -tossing it now and then; when tender, which you may easily ascertain by -feeling with your finger the different pieces, mix a spoonful of flour -with two ounces of butter, which put bit by bit in the pan, move it -round by shaking the pan, not with any spoon; boil a few minutes longer, -and serve, dishing the fish in pyramid, sauce over; if the sauce is too -thin, reduce it till it adheres to the back of the spoon; taste, if it -is highly seasoned, a few sprigs of thyme or bay-leaf may be added. Some -of the fish may be done sooner than the others; if so, take them out -first, and keep warm until all are done. The motive of mixing fish is, -that it is supposed the flavor of all together is finer than one alone. -Conger eel is also done in this way. - - - - -FISH SAUCES. - - - In all ages and countries at all removed from barbarism, where fish - has formed an article of diet, sauces of various kinds have been an - accompaniment. With the Romans, in the time of Lucullus, great care - was observed in their preparation; amongst others which they used, - and the most celebrated, was the Garum and the Muria. - - The _Garum_ was the sauce the most esteemed and the most expensive; - its composition is unknown. This is a subject well worth the - attention of the epicures of the present day; they should subscribe - and offer a premium for that which, in their opinion, may resemble - it: it is a subject well worthy the attention of the Professors of - our Universities. Perhaps some leaf yet undiscovered, that may have - escaped the conflagration of Alexandria, might throw some light - upon so interesting a subject. It appears, that mushrooms entered - greatly into its composition; and that parts of mackerel, or of - that species, formed another. The question is, at what time of the - year were mushrooms in season there; and if at that period - mackerel, or what species of mackerel have soft roes, as I think it - probable that they entered into its composition, as an island near - Carthaginia, where they were caught, was called Scombraria, and - that which was prepared by a company in that town, and which was - considered the best, was called Garum Sociorum. - - The _Muria_ was the liquid in which the tunny was pickled, and no - doubt very similar to our essence of anchovies. Those most - generally in use at the present day are the following, in addition - to which there are various kinds made and sold in bottles, some of - which are much cheaper to buy than to make. - - -264. _Melted Butter._--Put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, not too -hard, also a good tablespoonful of flour, mix both well with a wooden -spoon, without putting it on the fire; when forming a smooth paste, add -to it a little better than half a pint of water; season with a -teaspoonful of salt, not too full, the sixth part that of pepper; set it -on the fire, stir round continually until on the point of boiling; take -it off, add a teaspoonful of brown vinegar, then add one ounce more of -fresh butter, which stir in your sauce till melted, then use where -required; a little nutmeg grated may be introduced; it ought, when done, -to adhere lightly to the back of the spoon, but transparent, not pasty; -it may also, if required, be passed through a tammy or sieve. If wanted -plainer, the last butter may be omitted. - - -265. _Anchovy Sauce._--Make the same quantity of melted butter as in the -last, but omit the salt, and add three good tablespoonfuls of essence of -anchovies. - - -266. _Fennel Sauce._--This is a sauce principally used for boiled -mackerel. Make the same quantity of melted butter as in the last, to -which add a good tablespoonful of chopped fennel; it is usually served -in a boat. - - -267. _Egg Sauce_ is generally served with salt-fish or haddock. Boil six -eggs ten minutes, let them get cold, then cut them in pieces about the -size of dice, put them into a stewpan, with three parts of a pint of -melted butter, add an ounce more fresh butter, with a little pepper and -salt; keep the stewpan moving round over the fire until the whole is -very hot, and serve in a boat. - - -268. _Shrimp Sauce._--Make the same quantity of melted butter as before, -to which add three tablespoonfuls of essence of shrimps, but omitting -the salt; add half a pint of picked shrimps, and serve in a boat. If no -essence of shrimps, some anchovy sauce may be served with shrimps in it -as a substitute. - - -269. _Shrimp Sauce_ is also very good as follows: Pound half a pint of -shrimps, skins and all, in a mortar, and boil them ten minutes in half a -pint of water; pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a stewpan, and -add a piece of butter the size of two walnuts, with which you have mixed -a good teaspoonful of flour, stir it round over the fire until upon the -point of boiling; if too thick, add a little more water; season with a -little cayenne, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies; serve very -hot; a few picked shrimps might also be served in it. - - -270. _Caper Sauce._--Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a -stewpan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, add two -ounces of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake the -stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little -pepper and salt, and serve where directed. - - -271. _Lobster Sauce._--Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a -stewpan, cut up a small-sized lobster into dice, make a quarter of a -pound of lobster butter with the spawn, as directed; when the melted -butter is upon the point of boiling, add the lobster butter, stir the -sauce round over the fire until the butter is melted, season with a -little essence of anchovies, the juice of half a lemon, and a quarter of -a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; pass it through a tammy into another -stewpan, and add the flesh of the lobster; when hot, it is ready to -serve where required. This sauce must be quite red; if no red spawn in -the lobster, use live spawn. - - -272. _New and Economical Lobster Sauce._--Should you require to use the -solid flesh of a lobster for salad, or any other purpose, pound the soft -part and shell together (in a mortar) very fine, which put into a -stewpan, covered with a pint of boiling water; place it over the fire to -simmer for ten minutes, then pass the liquor through a hair sieve into a -basin; put three ounces of butter into a stewpan, into which rub (cold) -a good tablespoonful of flour, add the liquor from the lobster, place it -upon the fire, stirring until upon the point of boiling, season with a -little cayenne, and add a piece of anchovy butter, the size of a walnut; -or, if any red spawn in the lobster, mix it with butter, as in the last, -and add it, with the juice of half a lemon, just before serving. An -anchovy pounded with the lobster-shells would be an improvement, and -part of the flesh of the lobster might be served in the sauce. - - -273. _Lobster Sauce a la Creme._--Cut a small lobster into slices the -size of half-crown pieces, which put into a stewpan; pound the soft and -white parts, with an ounce of butter, and rub it through a sieve; pour -ten spoonfuls of melted butter, and two of cream, over the slices in the -stewpan, add half a blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a quarter -ditto of pepper, and a little cayenne; warm gently, and when upon the -point of boiling, add the butter and two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, -shake round over the fire until quite hot, when it is ready to serve. - - -274. _Lobster Sauce simplified._--Put the slices of lobster, as in the -last, into a stewpan, with ten tablespoonfuls of milk, add a little -pepper, salt, cayenne, two cloves, and half a blade of mace; set it upon -the fire, and when boiling, add a piece of butter of the size of two -walnuts, with which you have mixed a little flour; shake round over the -fire, and when getting rather thick, add two spoonfuls of cream, if -handy, and serve very hot. - - -275. _Beyrout Sauce._--Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a -stewpan, with one of Chili vinegar and one of common ditto, a pint of -melted butter, four spoonfuls of brown gravy, two of mushroom catsup, -and two of Harvey sauce; place it over the fire, keeping it stirred -until boiling, then place it at the corner to simmer five minutes, skim -well, then place it again over the fire, keeping it stirred until -thickish, to adhere to the back of the spoon, when add two -tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; -it is then ready to serve. - -The above, although a fish sauce, may be used for meat or poultry, by -omitting the anchovy, and adding more Harvey sauce. If no brown gravy, -add water and a little coloring. - - -276. _Oyster Sauce._--Mix three ounces of butter in a stewpan, with two -ounces of flour, then blanch and beard three dozen oysters, put the -oysters into another stewpan, add beards and liquor to the flour and -butter, with a pint and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, half a -saltspoonful of cayenne, two cloves, half a blade of mace, and six -peppercorns; place it over the fire, keep stirring, and boil it ten -minutes, then add a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, and one of -Harvey sauce, pass it through a tammy over the oysters, make the whole -very hot without boiling, and serve. A less quantity may be made, using -less proportions. - - -277. _Another method._--Put a pint of white sauce into a stewpan, with -the liquor and beards of three dozen oysters (as above), six -peppercorns, two cloves, and half a blade of mace; boil it ten minutes, -then add a spoonful of essence of anchovies, a little cayenne and salt -if required; pass it through a tammy, or hair sieve, over the oysters, -as in the last. - - -278. _A plainer method._--Blanch three dozen of oysters, which again put -into the stewpan, with their liquor (after having detached the beards), -add six peppercorns and half a blade of mace; place them over the fire, -and when beginning to simmer, add a piece of butter the size of a -walnut, with which you have mixed sufficient flour to form a paste, -breaking it in four or five pieces; shake the stewpan round over the -fire, and when upon the point of boiling, and becoming thick, add half a -gill of milk, or more if required; season with a little cayenne, salt, -pepper, and a few drops of essence of anchovies; serve very hot. - - -279. _Mussel Sauce._--Proceed exactly the same as for oyster sauce, -using only the liquor of the mussels (not the beards) instead of the -oysters, and serving the mussels in the sauce; about four dozen would be -sufficient. - - -280. _Cream Sauce._--Put two yolks of eggs in the bottom of a stewpan, -with the juice of a lemon, a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, a little -white pepper, and a quarter of a pound of hard fresh butter; place the -stewpan over a moderate fire, and commence stirring with a wooden spoon -(taking it from the fire now and then when getting too hot), until the -butter has gradually melted and thickened with the eggs (great care must -be exercised, for if it should become too hot, the eggs would curdle and -render the sauce useless); then add half a pint of melted butter; stir -altogether over the fire, without permitting it to boil, pass it through -a tammy into another stewpan; when wanted, stir it over the fire until -hot. This sauce may be served with any description of boiled fish. - - -281. _Matelote Sauce._--For about a pound-slice of salmon make the -following quantity of sauce: peel thirty button onions, and put half a -teaspoonful of sugar in a quart-size stewpan, place it over a sharp -fire, and when melted and getting brown, add a piece of butter (the size -of two walnuts) and the onions, toss them over now and then until rather -brown, then add a glass of sherry, let it boil, then add half a pint of -brown sauce, and a gill of broth, simmer at the corner of the fire until -the onions are quite tender, skim it well, and add a few mushrooms, if -handy, season with a little salt and sugar, and sauce over any kind of -fish where described. The addition of a teaspoonful of essence of -anchovies is an improvement. Use where directed. - - -282. _Matelote Sauce simplified._--Proceed as above respecting the -onions, only add a fourth more butter, and fry them a little browner; -then add a glass of sherry and two teaspoonfuls of flour, which stir -round gently with a small wooden spoon, add to it about a pint of water, -stir now and then till boiling, add three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of -sugar, one of pepper, and a bouquet garni, simmer and skim, add a few -drops of coloring to give it a nice brown color; when ready to serve, -add a good tablespoonful of anchovy essence; it ought to adhere lightly -to the back of the spoon, but not be too thick; sauce over or under, as -directed; small pieces of glaze, if handy, put into it is an -improvement, also using broth instead of water; oysters and mushrooms -may be introduced, also a little cayenne pepper. This sauce must be very -savory. - - -283. _Lobster Butter._--Procure half a lobster, quite full of spawn, -which take out and pound well in a mortar; then add six ounces of fresh -butter, mix well together, then rub it through a hair sieve, and put it -in a cold place until wanted. The flesh can be used for any other dish. - - -284. _Anchovy Butter._--Take the bones from six anchovies, wash the -fillets, and dry them upon a cloth, pound them well in a mortar, add six -ounces of fresh butter, mix well together, and proceed as in the last. - - -285. _Maitre d'Hotel Butter._--Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter -upon a plate, with one good tablespoonful of chopped parsley, the juice -of two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter that quantity -of white pepper; mix all well together, and put in a cool place till -required. - - -286. _Ravigote Butter._--Proceed as in the last, but instead of parsley, -use one spoonful of chopped tarragon, and one of chervil, and add half a -spoonful of Chili vinegar. - - - - -REMOVES. - - - These are dishes which remove the fish and soup, served upon large - dishes, and placed at the top and bottom of the table; great care - should be evinced in cooking them, as they are the "piece de - resistance" of the dinner. I must also observe that a few of the - receipts appear a little complicated, but which will not prove to - be the case if tried once or twice. In the Entrees will be found - how the remains of them may be dressed. - - Since the science of analytical chemistry has become so perfect, - and has shown us the elements of which every substance and liquid - is composed, and that, in order to continue them in a state of - action, and prevent decomposition, it is necessary to repair the - loss which they are every moment undergoing, even from man, through - every living thing, down to earth and water. But as I am not going - to write you a lecture on chemistry, which will be so much more - easy to read in Liebig, in order for you to choose your meat and - viands with economy in regard to actual nourishment, it is - necessary I should tell you, that, from infancy to old age, the - human race must be continually imbibing elements of formation or - reparation, even from the lime in the mother's milk, which forms - the bones, to the osmazome extracted from animal matters, which - creates a more lively circulation of the blood when it becomes - sluggish and dull in old age. Each period, occupation, and station - in life requires different substances of reparation, with which we - ought to make ourselves intimately acquainted. Amongst the first, - and that most generally in use with man, is the ox, the principal - nourishment of which consists in the osmazome, which is that liquid - part of the meat that is extracted by water at blood-heat. It is - this which is the foundation and flavor of all soups, which gives - the flavor to all meats, and which, on becoming candied by heat, - forms the crust of roast meats. - - The osmazome is found principally in all adult animals having a - dark flesh, and to a very small extent in those having a white - flesh; or even in the white flesh of fowls, but in their back and - legs, in which parts lies their principal flavor. The bones of the - ox contain gelatine and phosphate of lime. The gelatine is also - found in the muscles and other cartilaginous parts of the animal; - it is extracted by boiling water, and coagulates at the ordinary - temperature of the atmosphere; it is the foundation of all jellies, - blancmanges, and other similar preparations. - - The albumen is also found in the flesh, and congeals as soon as the - heat rises beyond that of the blood; it is this which is the scum - on the pot when the meat is boiling. - - BEEF.--All oxen should fast from twenty-four to forty-eight hours - before being killed; when killed and skinned, they are opened and - the inside cleaned; they are then hung up, and ought to be exposed - to a draught until cold, and then divided down the back into two - parts, leaving the head whole; these sides are then divided into - two, called the fore and hind-quarters: the fore-quarter contains - the shin, the clod and stickings, leg of mutton piece, chuck, - middle rib, fore rib; the hind-quarter consists of the rump, - sirloin, thin and thick flank, the veiny-piece, aitch-bone, buttock - or round, and leg and foot; the head contains the tongue, palate, - and brains; the entrails consist of the sweetbread, kidneys, - skirts, and the double roll and reed tripe. When the meat is cut - up, the following kernels are taken out: those in the neck, where - the shoulder clod is removed; two from the round, the pope's eye, - and one from the flap; one in the thick flap in the middle of the - flank, and another between the rump and aitch-bone: these must be - removed to preserve the beef, particularly in hot weather. The - flavor and quality of the meat depend on the country from whence it - comes, and the nature of its food.[4] As a general rule, the flesh - ought to be of a dark red color, smooth, open-grained, with fat - rather white than yellow running in thin streaks through the flesh. - Ox-beef is the largest and richest, but heifer is better, if - well-fed. It should be hung for two days previous to using, in a - cool place, free from draught; it will keep good from three to six - days, according to the weather. - - -287. _Sirloin of Beef_ should never be less than three of the short -ribs, and will weigh more or less according to the size of the ox from -which they are taken; that from a small, well-fed heifer I consider the -best, and will weigh about twelve pounds, and take about two hours to -roast, depending much on the fire. Having spitted or hung the joint, -cover it with buttered paper, and place it about eighteen inches from -the fire; about one hour after it has been down, remove the paper and -place the joint nearer the fire, and put half a pint of water, with a -little salt, in the dripping-pan; about a quarter of an hour before -removing from the fire, dredge it with flour and salt from the -dredging-box; when taken from the fire, empty the contents of the -dripping-pan into a basin, from which remove the fat; pour the gravy in -the dish, and then place the joint on it; serve some scraped -horse-radish separate. A Yorkshire pudding is very excellent when cooked -under this joint. - - -288. _Ribs of Beef._--This piece should consist of at least three ribs; -the bones are generally sawn through about three inches from the top; -these should be removed, leaving the flap, which fold under and fix with -wooden skewers. This, in roasting, should be prepared and dredged as the -sirloin. A drop of coloring gives the gravy an inviting appearance. - - -289. _Ribs of Beef braised._--Take four ribs, not too fat nor too thick, -remove the chine-bone neatly, and four inches of the tips of the -rib-bones, run with a larding-needle several pieces of fat bacon through -the thick part, trim over the flap and tie it well round, put it into -the braising-pan; put a quarter of a pound of butter, one teaspoonful of -pepper, and six teaspoonfuls of salt into the pan, cover it over, and -place it on a slow fire for thirty minutes, stirring it now and then, -then add two quarts of water; at the expiration of one hour and a half, -add eighty small button onions and sixty small young carrots, or pieces -of large ones cut in the shape, which place around the meat; a bouquet -of ten sprigs of parsley, three bay-leaves, and four sprigs of thyme -tied together; half an hour after, add sixty round pieces of turnip; -then place some live coals on the lid, and let it stew gently for one -hour and a half longer, being altogether about four hours. Take out the -meat, remove the string, and trim it. Skim off the fat from the liquor -in the pan, remove the bouquet, &c., add a few pieces of butter in which -have been mixed a tablespoonful of flour and a teaspoonful of sugar, two -of browning, stir gently with a wooden spoon, and, when just on the -boil, dress round the meat, and serve. In case it has reduced too much, -add water. - - The foregoing receipt may appear rather complicated, and may - perhaps frighten you, and prevent you trying it; but I assure you, - if you once try it, you will find it so good as to repeat it, - particularly as many other receipts will be referred to this one. - The vegetables and meat cold, are excellent. - - - 290. _Stewed Rump of Beef._--This is a very excellent and useful - joint to be continually kept in a country-house, where you may be - some distance from a butcher's, as, when hung up in a cool larder, - it keeps good for a considerable time, and you never feel at a loss - should some friends call unawares: after a third of it has been - removed for steaks, pies, or puddings, the remainder makes an - excellent joint, roasted or braised like the ribs, or stewed as - follows: - -Cut it away from the bone, cut about twenty long pieces of fat bacon, -which run through the flesh in a slanting direction; then chop up the -bone, place it at the bottom of a large stewpan, with six cloves, three -onions, one carrot, a turnip, and a head of celery; then lay in the rump -(previously tying it up with string), which just cover with water, add a -tablespoonful of salt and two burnt onions (if handy), place upon the -fire, and, when boiling, stand it at the corner; let it simmer nearly -four hours, keeping it skimmed; when done, pass part of the stock it was -cooked in (keeping the beef hot in the remainder) through a hair sieve -into a basin; in another stewpan have ready a quarter of a pound of -butter, melt it over the fire, add six ounces of flour, mix well -together, stirring over the fire until becoming a little brownish; take -off, and when nearly cold add two quarts of the stock, stir it over the -fire until it boils; then have four carrots, four turnips (cut into -small pieces with cutters), and forty button onions peeled, put them -into the sauce, when again boiling draw it to the corner, where let -simmer until tender, keeping it skimmed; add a little powdered sugar -and a bunch of parsley: if it should become too thick, add a little more -of the stock; dress the beef upon a dish, sauce round and serve. Brown -sauce may be used, and the gravy will make excellent soup. - - -291. _Salt Round of Beef._--This magnificent joint is, in general, too -large for small families, but occasionally it may be used; the following -is, therefore, the best method of cooking it: having folded the fat -round it, and fastened it with skewers, tie round it, not too tight, -some wide tape and a thin cloth, place it in a large stock-pot with -plenty of cold water, set it upon a good fire, and when beginning to -boil, draw it to the corner, where let it simmer until done; five hours -will be enough for a large one of thirty to thirty-five pounds; when -done, remove the cloth and tape, and dish it up, previously cutting a -slice two inches thick from the top, pouring a pint of the hot liquor -over it when serving. To serve it cold, M. Soyer, in his "Regenerator," -thus describes it: - - "After receiving the above useful lesson, and being desirous of - improving my profession in all its branches, I remembered that, - amongst the number of joints boiled to serve cold for large civic, - agricultural, or benevolent anniversary dinners, the round of beef - was the most prominent, and having seen it standing in dishes to - get cold, with the dish filled with the gravy that runs from it, - particularly if a little over-done, caused me to hit upon the - following expedient to prevent the meat losing so much of its - succulence. - -"Fill two large tubs with cold water, into which throw a few pounds of -rough ice, and when the round is done, throw it, cloth and all, into one -of the tubs of ice-water; let remain one minute, when take out and put -it into the other tub; fill the first tub again with water, and continue -the above process for about twenty minutes; then set it upon a dish, -leaving the cloth on until the next day, or until quite cold; when -opened, the fat will be as white as possible, besides having saved the -whole of the gravy. If no ice, spring water will answer the same -purpose, but will require to be more frequently changed; the same mode -would be equally successful with the aitch-bone." - - -292. _Half-Round of Beef (Silver-side)_ should be put into cold water, -and let it come to a boil; simmer for two hours and a half, and serve -the same as a round. - - -293. _Aitch-bone of Beef_ (or, as I think it ought to be called, -_Edge-bone_).--This is a very nice joint for a small family, but not so -economical as is generally supposed; it should be pickled carefully, and -cooked in the same way as the round; one weighing ten pounds will take -two hours and a half; it should be trimmed on the top, and served with -some of the liquor under it. It is very good when fresh and braised like -the ribs. - - -294. _Salt Brisket of Beef._--This is by no means an economical joint, -as it loses considerably in cooking; it requires a long time to boil; -should it be required as a large cold joint, the following is the best -plan: procure a nice brisket with as little fat as possible, detach the -whole of the bones from it, make a pickle (see Receipt), place it in it, -previously rubbing it well with two cloves of garlic, leave it in the -pickle from seven to nine days, rubbing and turning it every day; when -ready to cook, cut it into two parts (one about two inches longer than -the other), tie them together, and afterwards in a clean cloth, simmer -it for about six or seven hours in a large stock-pot full of water; when -done, take it out and let it drain, have ready a large dish-cover, place -it upon a trivet, remove the cloth and string from the meat, and place -it in the cover; have ready a piece of board to fit inside the cover, -place it on the meat with a half-hundred weight on the top, and let it -remain in a cold place until the next day, when take it out, trim it, -garnish it nicely, and serve. This will keep good a considerable time, -and is excellent for breakfast or luncheon; besides, it always keeps a -"piece de resistance" in the larder in case of accidents. It is also, -when fresh, very excellent stewed like the rump of beef, or plain -salted. - - -295. _Hamburgh Beef._--The ribs are the best; they should be put to soak -in soft water for twelve hours, and then put into cold water and boiled -gradually; a piece of three ribs will take three hours; if intended to -be served hot, the outside should be cut off, and the joint nicely -trimmed and served up with the following garniture round it: take four -handfuls of brown kale, well washed, put a saucepan on the fire, with a -gallon of water, and let it well boil; then add two tablespoonfuls of -salt and half a saltspoonful of carbonate of soda, put the kale in, let -it boil for ten minutes, drain it and squeeze all the water from it, put -it on a chopping-board and chop it fine, then put it into a stewpan, -with two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful -of salt, a little nutmeg, half a teaspoonful of sugar, and twenty -roasted chestnuts cut in half, put it on the fire and keep stirring it -for five minutes: if too dry, add a little milk or gravy, and place it -on the side of the fire until wanted. - - -296. _To boil a pickled Ox Tongue._--Put the tongue into a large stewpan -containing two gallons of cold water, which set upon the fire until -boiling, when draw it to the corner to simmer for three hours, if a -tongue weighing about six pounds; but the better way to ascertain when -done, is to try it with a trussing-needle, or the prongs of a fork, in -the thickest part; if tender it is done, but if hard it must boil rather -longer. A dried tongue should be soaked twenty-four hours previously to -boiling; when done, skin it and trim the root, &c., and use where -directed. - - -297. _To cook a fresh Ox Tongue._--Put a tongue in lukewarm water for -twelve hours to disgorge, then trim the root and scrape the tongue quite -clean; have ready twenty pieces of fat bacon two inches long and half an -inch square, which introduce with a larding pin into the most fleshy -part in a slanting direction; then rub the tongue all over with salt, -and run a long iron skewer through it, which tie upon, surround the -tongue with vegetables, the same as directed for turkeys roasted and -braised, and roast for two hours before a good fire; twenty minutes -before it is done take away the paper and vegetables, to give a nice -brown color; when done trim a little, to keep it steady in the dish, and -garnish with any kind of stewed vegetables, or cut it in halves -lengthwise to form a heart, and sauce over with piquante, tomatos, or -any other sharp sauces found in their series. If no convenience for -roasting, put into a stewpan a piece of leg of beef (cut small) weighing -two pounds, with two onions, one carrot, two blades of mace, a little -thyme and bay-leaf, and a quarter of a pound of butter, saute the whole -twenty minutes, keeping it stirred over a moderate fire, then put in the -tongue (previously prepared) and two ounces of salt, cover with water, -and let boil gently four hours, skim and serve. The stock would be -excellent for soup or brown sauce of any kind. The remains could be -served in either of the methods directed for the remainder of pickled -tongue. - - -298. _Rump Steak broiled._--Procure a steak cut nice and even, of about -half an inch in thickness (if well cut it will not require beating), -which lay upon a gridiron over a sharp fire; have a good teaspoonful of -salt, and half that quantity of pepper mixed together upon a plate, half -of which sprinkle upon the side of the steak uppermost, after it has -been upon the fire a couple of minutes, when turn, and sprinkle the -remainder of the seasoning upon the other side; it will take about ten -minutes to cook it to perfection, turning it occasionally, and serve -upon a very hot dish, with a little scraped horseradish round. If -properly done, it ought to be full of gravy, but a great deal depends -upon the fire, which, if bad, causes the gravy to ooze from the meat and -lie upon the top, which you lose in turning the steak over. A rump steak -may also be served broiled as above, with a little maitre d'hotel, or -anchovy butter, rubbed, over as soon as done, and potatoes cut the size -of half crown or shilling pieces, and fried crisp in hot fat; dress -round. Or a steak may be served, with a few water-cresses, well washed, -and dried upon a plate sprinkled with a little pepper, salt, and -vinegar, and garnished round; a little oil might also be added. - - - Veal of about two to three months old is the best; the flesh ought - to be white, approaching to pink, and the fat firm; it is cut up - the same as mutton, except that, in the hind-quarter, the loin is - cut straight, leaving the aitch-bone on it, which may be either - dressed on the loin or separate. The fore-quarter consists of the - shoulder, neck, and breast. The hind-quarter, the knuckle, leg, - fillet, and the loin. The head and pluck consists of the heart, - liver, nut, skirts, melt, and the heart, throat, and sweetbread. - - The bull-calf is the best, the flesh is firmer grained or redder, - and the fat more curdled than the cow-calf, which latter is in - general preferred, being more delicate and better adapted for made - dishes, as having the udder. Nothing can be worse than veal if not - fresh; it should never hang more than two days in summer and four - in winter. To be in full perfection, the kidneys ought to be - covered with fat, and the veins in the shoulder bright red or blue. - It is best from May to September, although it may be had good all - the year. The head, when fresh, should have the eyes plump and - lively; if stale, they are sunk and wrinkled. - - -299. _Fillet of Veal._--Choose it of the best quality. Procure a leg, -saw off the knuckle, take out the bone in the centre of the fillet, and -fill up the cavity with some stuffing made as directed (see Receipt), -fold the udder and flap round, which fix with three skewers; place half -a sheet of buttered foolscap paper top and bottom, which tie over and -over with plenty of string, run a spit through, fixing the fillet with a -holdfast; set down to roast, placing it rather close to the fire ten -minutes, rub well over with butter, then place it at least two feet and -a half from the fire, to roast very slowly, giving it a fine gold color; -a fillet weighing sixteen pounds would require three hours roasting, -when done take it up, detach all the string and paper, trim the top and -set it upon your dish; have a pint of melted butter in a stewpan upon -the fire, to which, when boiling, add four spoonfuls of Harvey sauce, -and two of mushroom catsup, mix well, and pour round the fillet; have -also boiled nicely an ox-tongue, which skin and trim, dress upon a dish -surrounded with greens or cabbage nicely boiled, and serve as an -accompaniment to the fillet. - - -300. _Loin of Veal._--One with plenty of fat and a good kidney, from -which the chump and the rib-bone at the other end has been removed; -fasten the flap over the kidney with a skewer, run a spit through -lengthwise, commencing at the thick end, and fixing it with a holdfast, -cover it with buttered paper; one of fourteen pounds will take about two -hours and a half to roast. Serve with melted butter poured over. - - -301. _Chump of Veal_ can be either roasted or boiled; one about four -pounds will take one hour to roast, and one hour and a quarter to boil; -roasted, serve like the loin: boiled, serve with either sauces, Nos. -122, 154, 160. - - -302. _Breast of Veal plain roasted._--Paper the joint, and roast for -about one hour, and serve with gravy and melted butter; it may be -roasted with the sweetbread skewered to it. By taking the tendons off, -stew them for entrees. - - -303. _Shoulder of Veal._--One weighing fourteen pounds will take about -two hours and a half to three hours to roast or braise; if roasted, the -same sauce as for the loin (No. 300), and braise (No. 310). - - -304. _Neck of Veal._--Procure about eight pounds of a nice white neck of -veal, containing six or seven chops; saw off under part of the -chine-bone, so as to give it a nice square appearance, lard it thus: -take about twelve pieces of fat bacon, two inches long and a quarter of -an inch square, put the larding-needle through the flesh of the veal -about one inch and a half, then put one third of the length of the piece -of bacon in it, pull the needle out, and it will leave the bacon in the -meat, showing a quarter of an inch of the bacon outside. Then braise as -ribs of beef. Two hours will suffice. - - -305. _Neck of Veal with Peas._--Proceed as in the former receipt, with -the exception of leaving out the vegetables, and adding, half an hour -previous to the meat being done, one quart of peas, twelve button -onions, and a little more sugar; remove the fat, and serve as before. - - -306. _Neck of Veal with Haricots._--Proceed as before, substituting the -haricots for the peas, which must have been boiled in plenty of water -for three or four hours previously. (See Receipt for Haricots.) - - -307. _Neck of Veal with New Potatoes._--As before, using new potatoes in -place of the peas. Any other vegetable, as French beans, broad beans, -&c. may be served with it in the same way. - - -308. _Necks of Veal_ can be larded or plain roasted, or braised in -plain gravy as before, and served with either sauces, Nos. 150, 135, -137, 165. - - -309. _Knuckle of Veal_ is a very favorite dish of mine: I procure two of -them, which I saw into three pieces each, and put into a stewpan, with a -piece of streaked bacon two pounds in weight, four onions, a carrot, two -turnips, and six peppercorns, place over the fire, and when boiling add -a little salt, skim well, and place at the corner to simmer gently for -two hours, take up, dress them in your dish surrounded with the -vegetables and bacon, and serve with parsley and butter over; very good -soup may be made from the stock it was boiled in if required, or if not, -into glaze, which put by until wanted. - - -310. _Loin of Veal braised._--This joint generally weighs from twelve to -fourteen pounds when off a good calf; have the rib-bones carefully -divided with a saw so as not to hurt the fillet, prepare the -braising-pan, and proceed as in receipt (No. 289); with the addition of -one pint more water, but take care not to cover the meat, which might -happen if your stewpan was small, which otherwise be boiling instead of -braising; it will take about three hours: be careful about the fat, as -this joint produces a great deal; taste the sauce before serving, in -case more seasoning is required, which might be the case, depending on -the nature of the veal. A good cook should taste all sauces before -serving. - - -311. _Breast of Veal stuffed and stewed._--Take about eight pounds of -the breast of veal, put your knife about half an inch under the skin, -and open it about three parts of its width all the way down, then -prepare some veal stuffing, and lay it in the opening you have made -about one inch in thickness, sew it up, and proceed as receipt for -shoulder. - -Should half the size of either the above dishes be required, use but -half the vegetables in proportion, and stew half an hour less. - -The _Chump_, _Small Shoulder_, or pieces of the fillet may be dressed in -the same way, but must be larded, like the neck. - -All the above joints may be stewed in the same way, with less -vegetables, and served with sauces (Nos. 131, 135); the gravy in which -they are stewed will always be useful in the kitchen, or may be reduced -and served with the joint. - - - 312. _Shoulder of Veal stuffed and stewed._--This is a very awkward - joint to carve to advantage, and equally so to cook; by the - following plan, it goes further than any other way. - -Take the joint and lay it with the skin-side downwards, with a sharp -thin knife carefully detach the meat from the blade-bone, then hold the -shoulder edgewise and detach the meat from the other side of the bone, -being careful not to make a hole in the skin; then cut the bone from the -knuckle and take it out; you may at first be rather awkward about it, -but after once or twice trying, it will become easy; you may also take -out the other bone, but I prefer it in, as it keeps the shape better: -then lard the lean part like the neck in (No. 304); mix some salt and a -little mixed spice together, with which rub the meat from whence the -bone has been cut, stuff with veal stuffing, or sausage-meat, or suet -pudding; braise, garnish, and serve as (No. 289). This being the -toughest part of the veal, it should be tried before taking up, to see -if it is properly done, by thrusting a larding-needle in it; if it goes -in easily it is done. This joint is excellent cold, and should be carved -in thin slices crosswise. - - -313. _Calf's Head._--Choose one thick and fat, but not too large; soak -for ten minutes in lukewarm water, then well powder with rosin, have -plenty of scalding water ready, dip in the head, holding it by the ear, -scrape the hair off with the back of a knife, which will come off easily -if properly scraped, without scratching the cheek; when perfectly clean, -take the eyes out, saw it in two lengthwise through the skull, without -spoiling the brain, which take carefully out, and put to disgorge for a -few hours in lukewarm water; pull the tongue out, break the jawbone, and -remove the part which contains the teeth, put the head into plenty of -water to disgorge for one hour; make the following stock, and boil for -about two hours and a half, and it will be ready to serve. - -The stock is made by putting into a braising-pan two carrots, three -onions, a quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves, a bouquet of -parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, set it on the fire for about twenty -minutes, keep stirring it round, then add a pint of water, and when warm -mix a quarter of a pound of flour, add a gallon of water, one lemon in -slices, and a quarter of a pound of salt, then lay the head in; take -care it is well covered, or the part exposed will turn dark: simmer -gently till tender. - - - - -LETTER No. XII - - - MY DEAR ELOISE,--Do not make any mistakes in the way you describe - the above receipts, which might be made very ridiculous if wrongly - explained. For example: I once had an old French Cookery Book in my - hand, which had the 15th edition stamped on its old brown leather - cheek, in which a receipt of "Tete de Veau a la poulette," that is, - a calf's head, with white sauce, in which small onions and - mushrooms are introduced, reads as follows--but, before describing - it, allow me five minutes to indulge in a hearty laugh at the - absurd manner in which it is explained: it reads thus: "First - choose your head as thick and fat as you can, then plunge it in two - gallons of water, which must be nearly boiling in a pan on the - fire; let your head remain about ten minutes, then take it out by - the ears, and, after remaining a short time, scrape your hair off - with the back of a knife without injuring your cheek, and pull your - eyes out; break your jawbone and saw your head in two without - smashing your brains, which take out carefully; set it in cold - water, to get clean and white; then pull out your tongue, scrape - and dry it, having previously boiled it with your head, which, - after two hours' ebullition, will feel as soft as possible, when - see that your head is in the centre of the dish; your tongue - divided in two and placed on each side of it: sharp sauce, - according to No.-- is allowed to be served with either head or - tongue." I assure you, dear, although I do not profess to be a - first-rate scholar in that fashionable language--French, that I - believe this to be as near as possible the true translation of the - original. Then follows calves' feet, which is nearly as absurd as - the former: "Pied de Veau an naturel," Calves Feet, the natural - way.--"Choose your fine feet in the rough state, and, as with your - head, place a pan of water on the fire; when hot, but not too much - so, put your feet in the water for about ten minutes, try if you - can easily clean them as your head with a knife, if not, add a - spoonful of salt in the water, and let them remain a few minutes - longer; then scrape like your head; when well cleaned wipe them - dry, and they are ready for dressing, which may be done in almost - twenty different ways. (See the series 'How to cook Pigs' Feet.') - When your feet are tender, set them on a dish, take out the big - bone, surround them with sausage-meat; wrap them up in caul, and - form a heart with them; then place your feet on a gridiron, let - them gently broil, and, when done, eat them for breakfast or - luncheon." (After which a gentle walk might give you an appetite - for dinner.) - - -_Calf's Head_ (No. 313) may be dressed thus:--Half of the head will make -a good dish for a remove; lay it in the dish very hot, having previously -drained it well; have ready about a pint of Hollandaise or cream sauce, -No. 280, pour it over and serve. - -It may be surrounded with a dozen new potatoes, if in season, or some -quenelles, or quarters of hard-boiled eggs; a little chopped parsley -thrown on the head when the sauce is over it, makes it look very -inviting. It can also be served "a la poulette," by putting a pint of -white sauce in a stewpan; you have peeled and cooked about fifty button -onions in white broth, to which you have added a little sugar and -butter, and a few mushrooms; add the broth, onions, and sauce together, -and when on the point of boiling, add a liaison of two yolks of eggs and -the juice of a lemon; stir it well round; it ought to be the thickness -of cream sauce; pour over the head and serve. - -It can also be egged and bread-crumbed, and placed in the cream for -twenty minutes to get a nice brown color, and may be served with sauces, -Nos. 150, 165. - - - MUTTON.--The sheep, when killed, is generally divided into two, by - cutting across about two ribs below the shoulder; these are called - the fore and hind-quarters: the former contains the head, neck, - breast, and shoulder; the latter, the leg and loin; or the two - loins together, the saddle or chine; or the leg and four ribs of - the loin, the haunch. The entrails are called the pluck, which are - the liver, lights, heart, sweetbread, and melt. When cut up, the - kernel at the tail should be removed, and that in the fat in the - thick part of the leg, and the pipe that runs along the bone of the - chine. The flavor depends on the breed and pasture; that is best - which has a dark-colored flesh, of a fine grain, well-mixed with - fat, which must be firm and white. Wether mutton is the best; the - meat of ewe mutton is of a paler color, and the fat yellow and - spongy. To keep a loin, saddle, or haunch, the kidney-fat should be - removed, and the place rubbed with a little salt. Mutton should - never be cooked unless it has hung forty-eight hours after it is - killed; and it can be kept for twenty-one days, and sometimes - longer in a severe winter. - - -314. _Haunch of Mutton._--Saw or break three inches from the -knuckle-bone, remove all skin from the loin, put it on a spit, -commencing at the knuckle, and bringing it out at the flap, avoiding the -fillet of the loin; then cover it with three sheets of buttered paper, -place it about eighteen inches from the fire, if a large one it will -take two hours and a half; half an hour before being done, remove the -paper, baste it with a little butter, and dredge it slightly; when done, -dish it up with a frill round the knuckle, and pour a pint of hot gravy -over. In summer time, French beans should be served with it, but always -mashed potatoes. - - -315. _Saddle of Mutton._--The same rule in regard to choice appiles to -this as to the haunch. Take off the skin, run a lark-spit through the -spinal marrow-bone, which affix to a larger one with a holdfast at one -end and string at the other; then tie the skin over the back, and place -it down to roast; it will not take so long a time to roast in proportion -as another joint, one about ten pounds will take about one hour and -twenty minutes; remove the paper ten minutes before taking it from the -fire, dredge to give it a nice color, and make gravy as for beef, No. -287, or serve with gravy, No. 177. - - -316. _Saddle of Mutton, a la Polonaise._--This is my economical dish, -_par excellence_, and very much it is liked every time I use it. Take -the remains of a saddle of mutton, of the previous day, cut out all the -meat close to the bone, leaving about one inch wide on the outside, cut -it with a portion of the fat into small dice; then put a spoonful of -chopped onions in a stewpan, with a little butter; fry one minute, add -the meat, with a tablespoonful of flour, season rather high with salt, -pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; stir round, and moisten with a gill -or a little more of broth, add a bay-leaf, put it on the stove for ten -minutes, add two yolks of eggs, stir till rather thick, make about two -pounds of mashed potatoes firm enough to roll, put the saddle-bone in -the middle of the dish, and with the potatoes form an edging round the -saddle, so as to give the shape of one, leaving the middle empty, fill -it with your mince meat, which ought to be enough to do so; if you -should not have enough with the remains of the saddle, the remains of -any other joint of mutton may be used; egg all over, sprinkle -bread-crumbs around, put in rather a hot oven, to get a nice yellow -color, poach six eggs, and place on the top, and serve brown gravy -round; white or brown sauce, if handy, is an improvement. You may easily -fancy the economy of this well-looking and good dish; the remains of a -leg, shoulder, loin, neck of mutton and lamb may be dressed the same -way, keeping their shape of course. - - -317. _Roast Leg of Mutton._--Choose the same as the haunch. One about -eight pounds weight will take about one hour and a half to roast: run -the spit in at the knuckle, and bring it out at the thigh-bone; roast it -some little distance from the fire at first, bringing it nearer as it -gets done; baste it with a little butter whilst roasting, or cover it -with a sheet of well-buttered paper, which remove just before it is -quite cooked. The leg of doe mutton is the best for roasting; should it -be ewe, and intended for roasting, I proceed thus two or three days -before I want it. I make a small incision close to the knuckle, pushing -a wooden skewer close down to the leg-bone as far as it will go; I then -take one tablespoonful of port wine, if none handy I use catsup, and a -teaspoonful of either treacle, apple or currant jelly, and mix them -together; I then remove the skewer, and run the mixture in it, closing -the hole with two cloves of garlic. This joint I prefer to dangle, -rather than put on the spit. - - -318. _Boiled Leg of Mutton._--This I prefer of the Southdown breed, and -ewe is equally as good as doe. Cut the end of the knuckle from the leg, -put it into an oval pan, in which there is sufficient water to cover it, -throw in about one ounce of salt, place it upon a sharp fire until it is -on the point of boiling, then remove to the side, and in five minutes -remove the scum, and then let it simmer gently; if the turnips are to be -boiled with it, peel and slice them, and put them into the pan half an -hour before the mutton is done; it must be again put on the fire for a -few minutes, as the turnips have stopped the boiling; dress it upon a -dish with the turnips round it, or mash separate, and with caper or -gherkin sauce: the broth may be reduced for soup. - - -319. _Leg of Mutton a la Bretonne._--Choose one about six pounds weight, -peel four cloves of garlic, make an incision with the point of a knife -in four different parts around the knuckle, and place the garlic in it, -hang it up for a day or two, and then roast it for one hour and a half. -At the same time you have procured a quart of small dry French haricots, -which after well washing put into a saucepan with half a gallon of -water, add about half an ounce of salt, the same of butter, set them on -the side of the fire to simmer for about three hours or till tender, -when pour the liquor off into a basin, and keep the haricots hot; peel -and cut two large onions into thin slices, put some of the fat of the -dripping-pan into a frying-pan, put in the onions, and fry a light -brown, add them to the haricots with the fat and gravy the mutton has -produced in roasting, season with salt and pepper, toss them a little, -and serve very hot on a large dish, put the leg on it, with a frill of -paper on the knuckle. In case the leg is very fat do not add all of it -to the haricots. This if well carved is an excellent dish for eight or -nine persons; it is a dish very much esteemed in France, and is -considered cheap food from the nourishment afforded by the haricots, -which can be purchased at sixpence per quart. - -Shoulder and loin may be dressed in the same way. - - -320. _Shoulder of Mutton_ is best if well hung; the spit should be run -in at the flap and brought out at the knuckle; this should not be basted -in roasting, but merely rubbed with a little butter; it is served -occasionally with sauces, No. 158. This is sometimes boiled with onion -sauce; or, as it is called, smothered in onions. It is also good by -having the bone extracted, and its place filled with veal stuffing, and -then put it on a trivet, in a baking-dish, with sliced potatoes under, -and baked more or less in proportion to its size; one of six pounds will -take one hour and a half--or as follows: - -Put a small shoulder of mutton in a deep saute-pan or baking-dish, -season with a little pepper and salt, cover over with thin slices of fat -bacon, then put in ten potatoes peeled and quartered, and the same -quantity of apples, with half a pint of water, place in a moderate oven -and bake for two hours, dress upon your dish, with the potatoes and -apples round, skim all the fat from the gravy, which pour over and -serve; it requires a little oil or butter over before baking. - - -321. _Shoulder of Mutton, Provincial Fashion._--Roast a fine shoulder of -mutton; whilst roasting mince ten large onions very fine, put them into -a stewpan, with two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, pass them ten minutes -over a good fire, keeping it stirred, then add a tablespoonful of flour, -stir well in, and a pint of milk, season with a little pepper, salt, and -sugar; when the onions are quite tender and the sauce rather thick, stir -in the yolks of two eggs and take it off the fire; when the shoulder is -done, spread the onions over the top, egg over, cover with bread-crumbs, -put in the oven ten minutes, and salamander a light brown color, dress -upon your dish, put the gravy from it in your stewpan, with a pat of -butter, with which you have mixed a little flour, boil up, add a little -scraped garlic, pour round the shoulder, which serve. The shoulder may -also be dressed in the housewife's method, as directed for the leg. A -little browning may be added. - - -322. _Loin of Mutton._--Take off the skin, separate the joints with a -chopper; if a large size, cut the chine-bone with a saw, so as to allow -it to be carved in smaller pieces, run a lark-spit from one extremity to -the other, and affix it to a larger spit, and roast it like the haunch. -A loin weighing six pounds will take one hour to roast. - - -323. _Leg of Mutton stewed with Vegetables._--Have a good leg, beat it a -little with a rolling-pin, make an incision in the knuckle, in which put -two cloves of garlic, then put it into a stewpan, with a pound of lean -bacon cut in eight pieces, set over a moderate fire half an hour, moving -it now and then until becoming a light brown color, season with pepper -and salt, add twenty pieces of carrots of the same size as the bacon, -fifteen middling-sized onions, and when done add two bay-leaves, two -cloves, and two quarts of water, replace it upon a moderate fire, moving -round occasionally, stew nearly three hours, dress upon your dish with -the carrots and onions dressed tastefully around, take off as much of -the fat from the gravy as possible, take out the bay-leaves and pour the -garniture round the mutton, which serve very hot. It can be braised like -No. 289. A few drops of browning may be required. - - -324. _Neck of Mutton._--This is a very _recherche_ dish, if off a -good-sized sheep, and well hung; it must be nicely trimmed, sawing the -bones at the tips of the ribs, which detach from the meat, folding the -flap over; saw off the chine-bone, and carefully detach the remainder of -the bone from the fillet; detach the skin from the upper part, fix the -flap under with a couple of skewers, run a flat lark-spit from end to -end, fix it to a larger one, cover it with buttered paper, and roast -like the haunch; if of five pounds, nearly three-quarters of an hour to -one hour. It should be served very hot, the plates and dish the same, -and not one minute before it is wanted: serve gravy under. - - -325. _Boiled Neck of Mutton._--Take one with little fat upon it, divide -the chops, taking care not to cut the fillet, put it into a pan with -cold water sufficient to cover it, place in it one ounce of salt, one -onion, and a small bunch of parsley, boil it gently; when done, dish it -up, and serve it with either parsley and butter made from the liquor in -which it was boiled, caper or onion sauce, mashed turnips separate. -Proceed as under receipt with the broth. - - -326. _Sheep's Head._--Though this may be seen in every part of London -inhabited by the working classes, and may be procured ready-cooked, I -prefer always to prepare it at home, and very good it is. I choose a -fine one, as fat as possible, and put it into a gallon of water to -disgorge for two hours; wash it well, saw it in two from the top, take -out the brain, cut away part of the uncovered part of the skull, and -also the ends of the jaws, wash it well, put it into the stewpan, with -two onions, one carrot, two turnips cut in slices, a little celery, four -cloves, a bouquet of four sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, one ounce of -salt, a quarter of an ounce of pepper, three quarts of water, set on the -fire; when near boiling, add half a teacupful of pearl or Scotch barley; -let it simmer for three hours, or till tender, which try with a fork; -take out vegetables, cut in dice, remove bouquet, skim off the fat, and -pour all into tureen. Or, lay the head on a dish, and serve with either -onion sauce over, parsley and butter, or any sharp sauce; or egg and -bread-crumb it over, put it in an oven for half an hour till getting a -nice yellow color, and serve with sharp sauce under. Or, with the brain, -thus: having boiled it for ten minutes in a little vinegar, salt, and -water, cut it in pieces, warm it in parsley and butter, season it a -little, and put it under the head and serve. - - -327. _Sheep's Head and Liver._--Boil half a sheep's liver for thirty -minutes in a quart of water, cut it into small dice, put two ounces of -butter in the stewpan, and set it on the fire, then add a tablespoonful -of chopped onions, cook it a few minutes, add the liver, season with -salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, half-pint of broth, -stir when boiling, simmer for a few minutes, lay on dish, and put the -head over just as it is out of the broth, or bread-crumb it, and put it -in the oven. - - - LAMB.--The same rules for cutting up should be observed as in the - sheep. The fore-quarter consists of a shoulder, neck, and breast - together; if cut up, the shoulder and ribs. The hind-quarter is the - leg and loin. The head and pluck consist of the liver, lights, - heart, nut and melt, as also the fry, which is the sweetbread, bits - and skirts, and part of the liver. The fore-quarter should be - fresh, the hind-quarter should hang, it should be of a pale color - and fat. The vein in the fore-quarter ought to be bluish and firm; - if yellow or green, it is very stale. To ascertain if the - hind-quarter is fresh, pass your finger under the kidney, and if - there is a faint smell it is not fresh. If there is but little - flesh on the shoulder it is not fine lamb; those that have short - wool I have found to be the best flavored. Nothing differs so much - in flavor and goodness as this: much depends upon the kind of - pasture on which the ewe is fed; that which is obtained when it is - the dearest has but little flavor, and requires the addition of - lemon and cayenne to make it palatable. - - -328. _Neck of Lamb a la Jardiniere._--Plain roast the neck, as you would -that of mutton; dish it up with sauce, and, whilst it is roasting, cut -one middling-sized carrot in small dice, the same quantity of turnip, -and thirty button onions; wash all in cold water, put them in a small -stewpan, with one ounce of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, place -on the fire till no liquid remains in the stewpan; add to it a gill of -brown sauce, half a one of broth, add a small bouquet of parsley and -bay-leaf; after once boiling, set it to simmer on the corner of the -stove, skim off all the fat; when ready, taste if very palatable; it -must be a nice brown color, and the sauce lightly adhere to the back of -the spoon; serve on the dish, place the neck over: white sauce may be -used instead of brown, only add a spoonful of liaison when ready to -serve. This sauce is equally good with almost any kind of meat, game, -and poultry: it will often be referred to, therefore be particular in -making it; you can shape the vegetables in twenty different ways, by -using either green peas, French beans, Brussels sprouts; sprey-grass may -be added, when in season, but should be boiled separately, and added -just previous to serving. Should you have no sauce-water cold, a little -glaze may be used; or, for white sauce, use water and milk. - - -329. _Saddle of Lamb, Russian fashion._--Roast a small saddle of lamb, -keeping it pale; having had it covered with paper, take ten good-sized -boiled potatoes, mash them with about two ounces of butter, a -teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a tablespoonful of -chopped parsley, and a little grated nutmeg; mix all well together with -a fork, adding half a gill of milk and one egg; when cold, roll them -into a long shape the size of plover's eggs, egg and bread-crumb twice, -and fry light colored; dress the saddle, surround it with the potatoes, -make a sauce of melted butter and maitre d'hotel butter, No. 285, put in -it, and pour it round, and serve. All joints of lamb can be dressed -thus. - - -330. _Leg or Shoulder of Lamb with Peas._--These must be plain roasted; -when done, serve with peas in the bottom of the dish, prepared as No. -169. - - -331. _Leg or Shoulder with French Beans._--Plain roast as before; -prepare beans as directed. (See Vegetables.) - - -332. _Boiled Leg of Lamb with Spinach._--Procure a very small leg, and -cut the end of the knuckle-bone, tie it up in a cloth and place it in -cold water, with two ounces of salt in it, boil it gently according to -size; when done, remove the cloth, and dish it up with spinach under it, -prepared as directed. (See Vegetables.) - - -333. _Shoulder of Lamb braised._--Take the blade bone from a shoulder -of lamb, and have ready ten long strips of fat bacon, which season -rather highly, with pepper, salt, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, -place the pieces, one after the other, in your larding pin, which draw -quickly through the fleshy part of the shoulder, leaving the bacon in -the meat; after having used all the bacon, roll the meat round, and tie -it up with a piece of string; then put it into a stewpan containing a -quarter of a pound of butter over a slow fire, stirring it occasionally -until of a light golden color, when pour in a quart of water or broth, -and add forty button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let simmer very -slowly until the onions are quite tender, when take up the meat, pull -off the string, and dress it upon a dish with the onions round; take the -parsley out of the liquor, from which carefully skim off all the fat, -and reduce it until forming a thinnish glaze, when pour it over the meat -and serve. Mushrooms may be added ten minutes before sending to table. - - -334. _Breast of Lamb broiled._--Saw off the breast from a rib of lamb, -leaving the neck of sufficient size to roast or for cutlets; then put -two onions, half a carrot, and the same of turnip, cut into thin slices, -in a stewpan with two bay-leaves, a few sprigs of parsley and thyme, -half an ounce of salt, and three pints of water, lay in the breast, -which let simmer until tender, and the bones leave with facility, when -take it from the stewpan, pull out all the bones, and press it between -two dishes; when cold, season with a little salt and pepper, egg and -bread-crumb it lightly over, and broil gently (over a moderate fire) of -a nice yellowish color, turning it very carefully; when sufficiently -browned upon one side, serve with plain gravy in the dish and mint sauce -separately, or with stewed peas or any other vegetable sauce; tomato -sauce is likewise very good served with it. - - -335. _Lamb's Head._--See Sheep's Head (No. 324). This will take half the -time to cook. - - -336. _Lamb's Fry._--Take about a pound and boil for ten minutes in half -a gallon of water, take it out and dry on a cloth; have some fresh -crumbs, mix with them half a spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper; -egg the fry lightly with a paste-brush, dip it in the crumbs, fry for -five minutes, serve very hot on a clean napkin in a dish, with fried -parsley over. - - -337. _Lamb's Head with Hollandaise._--If you want it very white, make -stock as for sheep's feet, put it to stew when done, lay on dish with -about twelve new potatoes (boiled) round it, pour over some cream sauce -(No. 280), and serve. - - -338. _Lamb's Head, with Brain or Liver._--Blanch the brain or liver, and -mince them as for sheep's head, introducing only the yolk of an egg; mix -with a little milk, stir in quick, add a tablespoonful of chopped -parsley, the juice of half a lemon, lay it on the dish with the head -over, and serve. - - - PORK.--The flesh of no other animal depends so much upon feeding as - that of pork. The greatest care ought to be observed in feeding it, - at least twenty-one days previous to its being killed; it should - fast for twenty-four hours before. No animal is more used for - nourishment, and none more indispensable in the kitchen; employed - either fresh or salt, all is useful, even to its bristles and its - blood; it is the superfluous riches of the farmer, and helps to pay - the rent of the cottager. It is cut up the same as the ox. The - fore-quarter is the fore-loin and spring; if it is a large pig, the - sparerib may be cut off. The hind-quarter is the leg and loin. - There is also the head and haslet (which is the liver, kidney, - craw, and skirts), and also chitterlings, which are cleansed for - sausages and black puddings. For boiling or roasting it should - never be older than six months, and the leg must not weigh more - than from six to seven pounds. The short-legged, thick-necked, and - small-headed pigs are the best breed, a cross from the Chinese. If - fresh and young, the flesh and fat should be white and firm, smooth - and dry, and the lean break if pinched between the fingers, or you - can nip the skin with the nails; the contrary if old and stale. - - -339. _Leg of Pork._--Choose the pork as described at the commencement of -this series, if a leg, one weighing about seven pounds; cut an incision -in the knuckle near the thigh, into which put a quantity of sage and -onions, previously passed in butter, sew the incision up with -pack-thread, score the rind of the pork in lines across, half an inch -apart, place upon a spit, running it in just under the rind, and -bringing it out at the knuckle. If stuffed the day previous to -roasting, it would improve its flavor; roast (if weighing seven pounds) -about two hours and a half, and serve with apple sauce in a boat. - - -340. _Chine of Pork._--Score it well, stuff it thick with pork stuffing, -roast it gently, and serve with apple sauce. - - -341. _Sparerib of Pork._--When spitted, rub some flour over the rind, -roast it before a clear fire, not too strong, or cover it with paper; -about ten minutes before taking it up, throw some powdered sage over it, -and froth it up with some butter in a spoon, and serve with gravy under. - - -342. _Loin or Neck of Pork a la Piemontaise._--The neck or loin must be -plain roasted; you have peeled and cut four onions in dice, put them -into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, stir over the fire until -rather brown, then add a tablespoonful of flour, mix well, add a good -pint of broth, if any, or water, with an ounce of glaze, boil ten -minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of French mustard, with a little pepper, -salt, and sugar, pour the sauce upon the dish, and dress your joint upon -it; serve with a little apple sauce separate in a boat. - - -343. _Loin or Neck of Pork, Normandy fashion._--Procure a neck or loin, -put it in a common earthen dish, having previously scored the rind, rub -over with a little oil, place about twenty potatoes, cut in halves or in -quarters, in the dish with the pork, ten onions peeled, and twenty -apples, peeled and quartered, place in a warm oven for an hour and a -half or more, then dress it upon your dish with the apples, onions, and -potatoes around, and serve. - - -344. _Bacon and Ham._--Bacon-pigs are cut up differently for hams, -bacon, &c., but a poleaxe should never be used for killing them, as it -spoils the head. To be good, the fat must be firm, with a slight red -tinge, the lean a dark red, and stick close to the bone; the rind thin, -if young; if old (should it be well fed it is sometimes better), it will -be thick. For hams, choose one short in the hock; run the knife close -under the bone, when it comes out, if not smeared and has a pleasant -smell, it is good. - - -345. _Ham._--This useful and popular dish, which is equally a favorite -in the palace and the cottage, may be dressed in upwards of fifty -different ways, with as many different dishes, which are described in -their place. They should be well soaked in water, and boiled gently for -three or four hours. If to serve hot, take the skin off, except from the -knuckle, which cut to fancy; trim the fat to a nice appearance, glaze -and serve, or throw over some sifted raspings of bread mixed with a -little chopped parsley. Serve where recommended. - - -346. _Bacon._--A piece of good streaky bacon, not too salt, should be -put into cold water and boiled for one hour and a half, and served with -broad beans, when in season, round it, or any young peas. - - -347. _Sucking Pig_ is merely plain roasted, stuffed with veal stuffing, -but before putting it upon the spit it requires to be floured and rubbed -very dry, otherwise the skin would not eat crisp; the usual method of -serving it is to cut off the head, and divide the body and head of the -pig in halves lengthwise; pour over some sauce made of the brains and a -little brown sauce, or of white melted butter, nicely seasoned with -salt, pepper, and sugar; serve apple sauce separate in a boat, if -approved of. - - -348. _Hind Quarter of Sucking Pig (Yorkshire fashion)._--Cut off the -skin, cover with paper, and roast before a quick fire about three -quarters of an hour; ten minutes before being ready, remove the paper -and baste it; serve with gravy under, and mint sauce and salad. - - -349. _Salt Pork._--Pork is salted in the same manner as described for -beef, omitting the sal-prunella, but of course not requiring so long a -time; a leg weighing seven pounds would be well salted in a week, as -also would a hand and spring weighing about ten pounds, and either would -require two hours boiling, putting them in a stewpan, with cold water, -and serving with carrots and greens and pease pudding. - - -350. _Pig's Cheek (a new method)._--Procure a pig's cheek nicely -pickled, boil well until it feels very tender, tie half a pint of split -peas in a cloth, put them into a stewpan of boiling water, boil about -half an hour, take them out, pass through a hair sieve, put them into a -stewpan, with an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, and four -eggs, stir them over the fire until the eggs are partially set, then -spread it over the pig's cheek, egg with a paste-brush, sprinkle -bread-crumbs over, place in the oven ten minutes, brown it with the -salamander, and serve. - - -351. _Pickled Pork (Belly part)._--Choose a nice streaky piece of about -four pounds, it will take about three quarters of an hour boiling; -serve, garnish with greens round it. - - -352. _Hand of Pork._--Choose one not too salt; boil it for one hour. -Serve as above. - - - VENISON is cut up the same as mutton, with the exception of the - saddle, which is seldom or never cut; the flesh should be dark, - fine-grained and firm, and a good coating of fat on the back. It - should be well hung and kept in a dry, cold place. By running a - skewer in along the bone, you will know when it is fit for eating; - examine it carefully every morning to cut out any fly-blows. - - -353. _Haunch of Venison._--A good haunch of venison, weighing from about -twenty to twenty-five pounds, will take from three to four hours -roasting before a good solid fire; trim the haunch by cutting off part -of the knuckle and sawing off the chine-bone; fold the flap over, then -envelop it in a flour and water paste rather stiff, and an inch thick, -tie it up in strong paper, four sheets in thickness, place it in your -cradle spit so that it will turn quite even, place it at first very -close to the fire until the paste is well crusted, pouring a few -ladlefuls of hot dripping over occasionally to prevent the paper -catching fire, then put it rather further from the fire, which must be -quite clear, solid, and have sufficient frontage to throw the same heat -on every part of the venison; when it has roasted the above time take it -up, remove it from the paste and paper, run a thin skewer into the -thickest part to ascertain if done; if it resists the skewer it is not -done, and must be tied up and put down again, but if the fire is good, -that time will sufficiently cook it; glaze the top well, salamander -until a little brown, put a frill upon the knuckle, and serve very hot, -with strong gravy, and plenty of French beans separate. - - -354. _Neck of Venison_ should be cut like a neck of mutton, taking the -breast off, leaving the neck about nine inches wide; detach the flesh -from the chine-bone, and saw it off, leaving only the cutlet bones, then -pass a lark spit through it, cover it with paste and paper the same as -the haunch, and fix on spit, and roast, if about eight pounds, for two -hours before a good fire. - - - - -POULTRY. - - - This is the best and most delicious of the various matters with - which man furnishes himself as food; although containing but little - nourishment, it gives a delightful variety to our repasts: from the - sparrow to the turkey, we find everywhere, in this numerous class, - that which gives a meal equally as good for the invalid as the - robust. - - Increasing every day in luxuries, we have arrived at a point - unknown even to Lucullus; we are not contented with the beautiful - qualities which Nature gives this species, but, under pretence of - improving them, we not only deprive them of their liberty by - keeping them in solitude and in darkness, but force them to eat - their food, and thus bring them to a degree of fatness which Nature - never intended. Even the bird which saved the capital of Rome is - treated with still greater indignity,--thrust into warm ovens and - nearly baked alive to produce those beautiful and delicious livers - so well known to gourmets.[5] - - The best way of killing poultry is to take the bird by the neck, - placing the thumb of the right hand just at the back of the head, - closing the head in your hand, your left hand holding the bird, - then press your thumb down hard and pull the head and neck - contrariwise; the neck will break instantaneously, and the bird - will be quite dead in a few seconds, then hang it a short time by - the legs for the blood to flow into the head, which renders the - flesh much whiter. In France they are usually killed by cutting the - throat close to the head; both methods are good with regard to the - whiteness of the flesh, but I prefer the English method, not being - so barbarous. - - To pluck either game or poultry have the bird upon a board with its - head towards you, and pull the feathers away from you, which is the - direction they lie in; many persons pull out the feathers in a - contrary direction, by which means they are likely to tear the skin - to pieces, which would very much disfigure the bird for the table. - - To draw poultry after it is well plucked, cut a long incision at - the back of the neck, then take out the thin skin from under the - outer with the crop, cut the neck bone off close to the body of the - bird, but leave the skin a good length, make an incision under the - tail just large enough for the gizzard to pass through, no larger; - then put your finger into the bird at the breast and detach all the - intestines, take care not to break the gall-bladder, squeeze the - body of the bird and force out the whole from the incision at the - tail; it is then ready for trussing, the method of doing which will - be given in the various Receipts throughout this series. The above - method of drawing poultry is equally applicable to game. - - - TURKEY.--The flesh of this bird depends greatly upon its feeding; - it might be made much more valuable for table if proper attention - was paid to it. A young one should have his legs black and smooth - and spurs short, his eyes look fresh and feet limber. - - It is singular that this bird should take its name from a country - in which it was never seen; in other countries in Europe it is - called the Indian cock, because, on the first discovery of America - by Columbus, it was supposed to be part of the continent of India, - and thus it received the name of the West Indies; and this bird, - being brought over on the first voyage, was thus named. By many it - is supposed to have been brought over by the Jesuits in Spain and - Portugal. It is familiarly called so. It is also probable that they - were the first who domesticated it. I have seen it stated that it - was known to the Romans, and was served at the marriage of - Charlemagne. From my researches I rather think they confound it - with the pheasant. It has more flavor than any other of our - domestic birds, and is, consequently, held in higher estimation and - enjoys a higher price. Do not fear these long receipts, as each one - contains several. - - -355. _Plain Roasted Turkey, with Sausages._--This well-known dish, which -has the joyous recollection of Christmas attached to it, and its -well-known cognomen of 'an alderman in chains,' brings to our mind's eye -the famed hospitality of this mighty city. The following is my plan of -cooking it.--It must be first trussed as follows: Having first emptied -it, break the leg-bone close to the foot, and draw out the sinews from -the thigh; cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin long; -wipe the inside with a wet cloth, cut the breast-bone through on each -side close to the back, and draw the legs close up; fold a cloth up -several times, place it on the breast, and beat it down until it lies -flat; put a skewer in the joint of the wing, and another through the -middle of the leg and body, one through the small part of the leg and -body, close to the side-bones, and another through the extremity of the -two legs. The liver and gizzard should be placed between the pinions of -the wings, and the points turned on the back. When thus trussed, singe -all the hair off that may remain, take about one pound of stuffing (see -Receipt), and put it under the skin at the neck, tie the skin under, but -not too tight or it may burst in roasting, put it on to a small-sized -spit and fasten it with a holdfast, or hang it neck downwards from a -bottle-jack, put it about eighteen inches from a good roasting-fire, let -it turn about ten minutes, when the skin is firm and dry you press into -the bowl of a wooden spoon, so that it sticks, about one ounce of -butter, and rub the turkey all over with it; when all melted, remove the -turkey eight inches further from the fire: one of about six pounds will -take two hours to roast without pouring any fat over it. In case your -fire is too fierce and likely to break the skin, draw it back still -more; it will, with proper care, be of a golden color. I do not object -to the gizzard being placed under the wing when roasting, but never the -liver, which I cook in the dripping-pan, as the gravy which would run -from it would spoil the color of the breast. When done, remove it, cut -the strings, lay it on your dish, and pour under half a pint of good -brown gravy, or make some with glaze; or, whilst the bird is roasting, -butter the bottom of a small stewpan, pick and slice two onions, lay -them at the bottom, cut the neck in small pieces, add half a spoonful of -salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little turnip, one clove, set on a -slow fire till the onions are of a brown color, then add a pint of -water, let it simmer for nearly one hour, then pass it through a sieve -into a basin, skim off the fat, return the gravy again into a stewpan, -give it a boil, and, when the turkey is ready to send to table, pour it -under; if a little beef or veal handy, add it to the gravy if you -require much. - -This plan of roasting is adapted for all birds, and all my receipts for -plain roasting of poultry will refer to this, with the alteration of the -time which each takes to cook. - -For _Sausages_, I seldom broil them; I prick them with a needle, rub the -bottom of the frying-pan with a little butter, put twelve sausages in -it, and set it on a slow fire and fry gently for about fifteen minutes, -turning them when required (by this plan they will not burst), serve -very hot round the turkey, or on a separate dish, of smoking-hot mashed -potatoes; to vary the gravy I have tried the following plan: take off -the fat which is in the frying-pan into a basin, then add the brown -gravy, mix a good teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup with a wineglassful -of cold water, pour in the pan, boil a few minutes, pass it through a -sieve, and serve with the turkey. The gravy this way is excellent. - - -356. _Turkey with flat Sausage Cake._--Roast as before, fry thirty oval -flat sausages (see Receipt), the same quantity of the same sized pieces -of bacon, a quarter of an inch thick, make a border of mashed potatoes -about the size of a finger, one inch inside the edge of the dish, dress -your sausages and bacon on it as a crown alternately, put your turkey in -the middle, and gravy over, or glaze, if handy; plain boiled tongue may, -of course, be served with the turkey, or separate on a dish of greens; -if any remains of tongue from a previous day, it may be served instead -of the sausages, cut the same shape as sausages and warmed in a pan; if -so, put a nice green Brussels sprout between each piece. Bread sauce is -generally served with this dish; for my own part, I never eat it. - - - BOILED TURKEY.--This is a dish I rarely have, as I never could - relish it boiled as it generally is, by putting it into that pure - and chaste element water, into which has been thrown some salt, the - quantity of which differs as much as the individuals that throw it - in. I often reflect to myself, why should this innocent and - well-brought up bird have its remains condemned to this watery - bubbling inquisition, especially when alive it has the greatest - horror of this temperate fluid; it is really for want of reflection - that such mistakes occur: the flavor of a roasted turkey, hot or - cold, is as superior to the boiled as it is possible to be. But yet - there is a kind of boiling which can be adopted, and which I - sometimes practise, which makes a nice palatable dish, and the - broth can be used for other purposes. I think, if you try it, you - will never again resort to that bubbling system of salt and water. - I proceed as follows:-- - - -357. _Boiled Braised Turkey._--I truss it thus: Cut the neck, leaving -the skin on; cut the legs off; then run the middle finger into the -inside, raise the skin of the legs, and put them under the apron of the -turkey, put the liver and gizzard in the pinions, turn the small end of -the pinions on the back, run a packing-needle with string through the -joint of the wing and middle joint of the leg, and through the body, and -out at the opposite leg and wing, bring it round and tie it on the back, -then run the needle and string through the ends of the legs or -drumstick, press it through the back, and tie strongly; it is then -ready. When the turkey is trussed, I then stuff it; and if I intend to -have oyster sauce with it, I chop about two dozen of them into small -dice and mix them with the stuffing, and place inside the breast. I then -rub the breast with half a lemon, and put it into a two-gallon pan, and -cover it with cold water, in which I add two ounces of butter, one ounce -of salt, four onions, a stick of celery, one carrot, two turnips sliced, -a large bouquet of parsley, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme; set it -on the fire, when beginning to boil, skim it, let it simmer two hours, -or more if large; try the breast with a needle, if it goes in and out -easily it is done; take it out and set it on a dish to drain, remove the -string, serve on a fresh dish with a pint of good thick oyster sauce -over it; by omitting the oysters in stuffing, you may serve the turkey -with celery sauce, Jerusalem sauce, tomato ditto, mushroom ditto, or -good parsley and butter; and, as an accompaniment, a piece of about two -pounds of nice streaked bacon, which has been boiled with the turkey, -and from which you have removed the skin, and serve on some greens, or -Brussels sprouts, over which you have thrown a little salt, pepper, and -two ounces of oiled butter. You see, dear----, that this dish can be -varied without much expense and trouble; observe, that this way, the -broth is good for soup the same day, and by the addition of two pounds -of veal cut in small pieces, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, one -onion, one blade of mace, one leek, a wineglass of water; put into a -separate stewpan, stew on fire till forming a white glaze, then add it -to the turkey when on the point of boiling; when done, skim off all fat, -pass it through a tammy or cloth; you may use it for any clear soup by -adding a little brown gravy or coloring, and also for any kind of -puree; or, by reducing it a little, make white or brown sauce, adding to -the last the proper color. I must observe, that this will be almost -impracticable when you have a party; the only plan would be to get the -turkey done one hour before you require it, keeping it hot with its -breast in some of the stock; but, as the broth will keep well in small -quantities, it can be reserved for the next day. That is my plan of -boiling, but the following is my new way of giving the flavor of -vegetables to all poultry, which is a decided improvement. The aroma -from the bird when the cover is removed is quite inviting, and the -appearance of it, which is as white as alabaster, and cuts also full of -juice: I call it-- - - -358. _Roast Braised Turkey._--Peel and wash two onions, one carrot, one -turnip, cut them in thin slices, also a little celery, a few sprigs of -parsley, two bay-leaves, lay three sheets of paper on the table, spread -your vegetables, and pour over them two or three tablespoonfuls of oil; -have your turkey, or poularde, trussed the same as for boiling; cover -the breast with thin slices of bacon, and lay the back of the bird on -the vegetables; cut a few slices of lemon, which you lay on the breast -to keep it white, tie the paper round with string, then pass the spit -and set it before the fire; pour plenty of fat over to moisten the paper -and prevent from burning, roast three hours at a pretty good distance -from the fire; capons will take two hours, poulardes one hour and a -half, fowls one hour, and chickens half an hour. This way it may be -served with almost any sauce or garniture, as stewed peas, oyster sauce, -jardiniere, stewed celery, cauliflower, stewed cucumbers, Jerusalem -artichokes, which should be turned in the shape of a pear: these should -be dished on a border of mashed potatoes; that is, an artichoke and a -Brussels sprout alternately, or a small piece of white cauliflower, and -a small bunch of green asparagus, or stewed peas, or stewed celery of -two inches long, never more, or any other vegetable according to season, -which taste or fancy may dictate. When I want to serve them with brown -garniture or sauce, I remove the paper and vegetables twenty minutes -before it is done, and give it a light golden color, then I serve it -with either a ragout financier, or mushroom or English truffle. I also -often stuff it thus: I put two pounds of sausage meat in a basin with a -little grated nutmeg; I then take two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, -put them in a saute-pan with a little butter, and let them do for two -minutes, which add to the meat, also two eggs well beaten up, and a -quarter of a pint of white sauce if at hand, and fifteen fine roasted -chestnuts; add this to the stuffing, and fill the bird as usual, not too -full at the breast; roast as above, giving half an hour longer for the -forcemeat, put a quart of demi-glaze and a glass of sherry in a stewpan, -reduce it to a pint and a half, add in it fifty button onions previously -stewed, and twenty-five roasted chestnuts; sauce under. - - -359. _Turkey, if old._--The French stew it exactly like the ribs of -beef, the receipt of which you have; but as this is a large "piece de -resistance," I think I had better give it you in full as I do it:--Put a -quarter of a pound of butter into a convenient-sized stewpan, such as -will comfortably hold the old gentleman; cut one pound of lean bacon in -ten or twelve pieces for a few minutes in the pan on the fire, then add -your turkey trussed as for boiling, breast downwards; set it on a -moderate fire for one hour, and until it is a nice color, add two -tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well round until it forms a roux, then -add two quarts of water or broth; when you have it on the point of -boiling, add fifty pieces of carrot the size of walnuts, the like of -turnip, ten button onions, a good bouquet of sprigs of thyme, two -bay-leaves, and ten of parsley, a small glass of rum, a clove, a piece -of garlic, and let it stew gently for four hours. If you use water, -season in proportion. Take your turkey out, and put the vegetables and -sauce in a smaller stewpan, which ought to be nearly full; let it simmer -on the corner of the fire, so that the fat rises and may be removed, and -reduce it to a demi-glaze, dish up your turkey and serve with the sauce -over it; small new potatoes, about twenty, when in season, may be added -to the sauce or roasted chestnuts. The remains are excellent when cold, -or will warm again with the addition of a little broth or water. The -series of entrees will contain the dishes made from the remnants of the -foregoing receipts. - - - FOWLS, in a general sense, mean all kinds of poultry, but, in a - limited view, mean one species of bird, which is exceedingly common - in all parts of Europe: there are an amazing number of kinds of - this species produced by crossing the breed; great attention having - been bestowed upon this subject of late years, that it is quite - impossible to say which is the best. They are not originally - natives of England, but were found there by the Romans, having - probably been brought by the Phoenicians. We distinguish this - kind in cookery as the chicken, capon, pullet, cock, and hen. - Chickens from their age cannot be otherwise but tender; capons - should have a fat vein on the side of the breast, thick belly and - rump, comb short and pale, spurs short and blunt, and legs smooth. - Pullets are best in the spring, just before they begin to lay. - Cocks should have their spurs short, legs smooth, and comb short, - smooth, and a bright color. Hens, legs and comb smooth, and full - breast. Black legs are best for roasting and entrees, and white for - boiling. - - For preparing them for table, M. Soyer has invented a plan:--by - cutting the sinews of the bird, it not only appears fuller and - plumper when cooked, as the heat is liable to contract the sinews, - but it also affords facility for carving when the sinews are - divided; they are trussed in the usual way, only using string - instead of skewers. The following is the ordinary plan of - trussing-- - - _For Roasting._--Having emptied the fowl and cleaned the gizzard, - cut the skin of the wings, and put the gizzard and liver through - it, and turn the pinion under; put a skewer through the first joint - of the pinion and the body, coming out at the opposite side, and - bring the middle of the leg close up to it; run a skewer through - the middle of both legs and body, and another through the drumstick - and side-bone, and one through the skins of the feet, the nails of - which must be cut off. - - _For Boiling._--Prepare as before; put the finger in the inside, - and raise the skin of the legs; cut a hole in the top of the skin, - and put the legs under; put the gizzard and liver in the pinions, - and run a skewer through the first joint; draw the leg close up, - and run a skewer through the middle of the legs and the body, tie a - string on the tops of the legs to keep them in their proper place. - - -360. _Poulards, Capons, and Fowls._--These are the best at nine and ten -months old; if after twelve or fourteen, are only fit to be stewed like -the turkey, No. 369, but in less time, or boiled in broth or sauces, but -when young serve as boiled turkey, No. 367. Roast, No. 365, less time, -but take care to do it well, as white meat with red gravy in it is -unbearable. - - -361. _Capon or Poulard roasted._--Prepare it as you would a turkey, and -it may be stuffed with the same kind of stuffing, tie over the breast a -large slice of fat bacon, about a quarter of an inch thick, and two -sheets of paper; ten minutes before being done, remove the paper and -bacon, dredge it, and put a piece of butter on it, so that it is of a -nice color, dish it up very hot with a gravy like the roast turkey. - - -362. _Capon boiled._--The same as the turkey. - - -363. _Capon or Poulard a l'Estragon._--I have been told many fanciful -epicures idolize this dish. The bird should be trussed for boiling; rub -the breast with half a lemon, tie over it some thin slices of bacon, -cover the bottom of a small stewpan with thin slices of the same, and a -few trimmings of either beef, veal, or lamb, two onions, a little -carrot, turnip, and celery, two bay-leaves, one sprig of thyme, a glass -of sherry, two quarts of water, season lightly with salt, pepper, and -nutmeg, simmer about one hour and a quarter, keeping continually a -little fire on the lid, strain three parts of the gravy into a small -basin, skim off the fat, and pass through a tammy into a small stewpan, -add a drop of gravy or coloring to give it a nice brown color, boil a -few minutes longer, and put about forty tarragon leaves; wash, and put -in the boiling gravy, with a tablespoonful of good French vinegar, and -pour over the capon when you serve it; by clarifying the gravy, it is an -improvement. All kinds of fowls and chickens are continually cooked in -this manner in France. They are also served with rice. - - -364. _Poulard with Rice._--Having been braised as before, have a quarter -of a pound of good rice washed, put in a stewpan, with a pint of broth, -three spoonfuls of the capon's fat from the stewpan, a bouquet of -parsley, let it simmer until it is tender, take the parsley out, add two -ounces of butter, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, stir it round, or form -it into a delicate pulpy paste, lay some of it on a dish with the capon -on it, put the remainder round it, making it smooth with a knife, -leaving the breast uncovered; salamander the rice, and serve clear gravy -separate; sometimes I add a little curry powder in the gravy, and egg -and bread-crumb the rice, and salamander or make the rice yellow with -curry powder, and make a border of half eggs round the dish, it looks -well, and that is a great thing; and one fowl done thus will often go as -far as two plain. It is generally the custom with us to send either ham, -tongue, or bacon, as an accompaniment to poultry. I endeavor to vary it -as much as possible; the following is one of my receipts. - - -365. _Poulards or Capons, with Quenelles and Tongue._--When you are -either roasting or braising, you make about twenty quenelles with table -spoons, out of forcemeat of veal. Proceed and cook the same; when done, -make a roll of mashed potatoes, which put round the dish you intend to -serve it in, have ready cut from a cold tongue as many pieces of the -shape of the quenelles, warm gently in a little gravy, then put the -quenelles on the border; having cut a piece off the end, so that they -may stand properly, with a piece of tongue between each, put the fowl in -the centre, have ready made a quart of a new white sauce, which pour -over the fowl and quenelles, glaze the tongue, and serve very hot. I -found this dish at first rather complicated, but now my cook can do it -well without my assistance; it looks and eats well, but is only adapted -for a dinner of importance. - - -366. _The same with Cucumbers._--Cut about four nice fresh cucumbers -into lengths of two inches, peel and divide them down the middle, take -the seedy part out, trim the corners, put about thirty of them into a -stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a spoonful of eschalot, and the same -of sugar; lay on a very slow fire for half an hour, or till tender; lay -them on a border of mashed potatoes, with quenelles as above, and place -the tongue between; in another stewpan you have put a little butter, and -the trimmings of the cucumbers, then add a quart of white sauce, boil -and pass through a tammy, adding a little sugar, or other seasoning if -required, and finish with half a gill of good cream sauce over all -except the tongue, which glaze. Cauliflower, sprue grass, Jerusalem -artichokes, or Brussels sprouts, like the turkey, make excellent and -inviting dishes. - - -367. _Capon with young Carrots._--Scrape two bunches of young carrots, -keep them in their original shape as much as possible, wash them and dry -on a cloth, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little -sugar, salt, and pepper, set it on the fire for ten minutes, moving them -now and then, add a quart of white broth, simmer gently until very -tender and it comes to a demi-glaze; dish the carrots on a border of -potatoes, the points towards the centre, cook some small button onions -the same way, but very white, and dress them alternately; mix the two -gravies together with a quart of demi-glaze, set it on the fire, boil -fast, skim it, when forming a bright thinnish sauce, pour it over the -capon and vegetables; it being served with a brown sauce, it ought to be -roasted brown like turkey (No. 355); turnips may also be added instead -of carrots, or both. - - -368. _Fowls, Italian way._--Prepare and cook the fowls as above, or -re-warm some that may be left, cut the remains of a tongue into pieces -one inch long and one quarter in thickness, cut three times the quantity -of plain boiled macaroni the same way, with a few mushrooms, and add the -whites of four eggs to it, with some broth and half a pint of white -sauce; when boiling, add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan and -half that of Gruyere, shake the stewpan so that the contents are well -mixed, add a little salt and cayenne, put fowl on dish, sauce over and -serve; or put the macaroni on the dish, mix bread-crumbs and a little -grated cheese together and sprinkle over it, put it into the oven until -it is a yellow-brown color, put the fowl on it very hot, and serve with -a little white sauce over, and a strong gravy separate. - - -369. _Fowl a l'Ecarlate._--Roast and braise two nice fowls, and boil a -fine salted tongue, which trim so as to be able to stand it in a dish, -when place it in the middle in a slanting position, place two fine heads -of cauliflower at each end, and make a pint of cream sauce, pour over -the fowl, and brocoli; glaze the tongue and serve. Fowls may be dressed -in any of the ways before described, and dished up thus. - - - GEESE.--We have now arrived at your favorite dish, or, as your - better half said on your return home from this, "What is better - than a goose stuffed with sage and onion!" Of course many persons - are of his idea, and I must say that I for one enjoy them - occasionally when in season; yes, indeed I do, and with the - original apple-sauce too; this last addition to our national - cookery must have been conferred on it by the Germans, who eat - sweets or stewed fruit with almost every dish; or, perhaps, from - William the Conqueror, who left his land of apples to visit and - conquer our shores; but never mind to whom we are indebted for this - bizarre culinary mixture, I sincerely forgive them, and intend to - have one for dinner to-day, which I shall have cooked as follows; - but I must first tell you how they should be chosen. The flesh - should be of a fine pink color, and the liver pale, the bill and - foot yellow, and no hairs, or but few, on the body; the contrary - will be observed in an old one, which will have the feet and bill - red. - - -370. _Goose (to truss)._--Having well picked the goose, cut the feet off -at the joint, and the pinion at the first joint; cut off the neck close -to the back, leaving all the skin you can; pull out the throat, and tie -a knot at the end; put your middle finger in at the breast, loosen the -liver, &c., cut it close to the rump, and draw out all the inside except -the soal,[6] wipe it well, and beat the breast bone flat; put a skewer -in the wings, and draw the legs close up, running a skewer through the -middle of both legs and body; draw the small of the leg close down to -the side bone, and run a skewer through; make a hole in the skin large -enough to admit the trail, which when stuffed place through it, as it -holds the stuffing better. - - -371. _Roast Goose._--Peel and cut in rather small dice six middle-sized -onions, put in a pan, with two ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of -salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, a little grated nutmeg and sugar, six -leaves of fresh sage chopped fine, put on fire, stir with wooden spoon -till in pulp, then have the goose ready trussed as under, and stuff it -whilst hot, tie the skin of the neck to the back, pass the spit through -and roast two hours before a moderate fire; baste the same as turkey -(No. 355), give a nice yellow color, remove it from the spit, take off -the string, and serve with half a pint of good brown gravy under and -apple-sauce in a boat. - - -372. _The same, with another stuffing._--I have tried it with the liver -chopped and mixed it with the onions; I also at times add two cold -potatoes cut in dice and a spoonful of boiled rice; it removes the -richness of the fat, and renders it more palatable and digestive; and I -also sometimes add twenty chestnuts cut into dice. The giblets should be -stewed or made into pies. (See Receipt.) Where there is no gravy, broth, -or glaze, still gravy is wanted, therefore put into the dripping-pan a -teaspoonful of salt, half a pint of water, and dredge a little flour on -it; when the bird is done, pour the contents of the pan into a cup, -remove the fat, pour over the back of the bird, which serve on a very -hot dish as soon as taken from the fire. - - -373. _Goose roasted (another way)._--Having the goose ready the day -previous to using, take three cloves of garlic, which cut into four -pieces each and place inside the goose, and stuff it as follows; take -four apples, four onions, four leaves of sage not broken, four leaves of -lemon-thyme not broken, and boil in a stewpan with sufficient water to -cover them; when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and -thyme, then add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be -sufficiently dry without sticking to the hand, add pepper and salt, and -stuff the bird, having previously removed the garlic, tie the neck and -rump, and spit it, paper the breast, which remove after it has been at -the fire for twenty minutes; when done, serve it plain with a thickened -gravy. - - -374. _Goose stewed._--If an old one, stew it with vegetables, as duck -(No. 378), only give it more time to cook. On the Continent they are -dressed in different ways, but which are too complicated for both our -kitchens. - - -375. _Goose Giblets, Ragout of, or of Turkey._--Put them into half a -gallon of warm water to disgorge for a few hours, then dry them on a -cloth, cut into pieces not too small, put into a stewpan a quarter of a -pound of good lean bacon, with two ounces of butter; when a little -brown, add your giblets, and fry for twenty minutes longer, stirring it -together; add a little flour, a good bouquet of parsley, twenty button -onions, same number of pieces of carrot and turnip, two saltspoonfuls of -salt, the same of sugar, stew together one hour until tender, skim off -the fat, dish up the meat, reduce the salt if required, take bouquet -out, and sauce over the giblets: both goose and turkey giblets take the -same time to stew. If any remaining, they will make a capital pie or -pudding, or merely warm up with broth or water, and a little flour. - - -376. _Preserved Goose for the Farm, or Country House._--In case you have -more geese in condition and season than what you consume, kill and cut -them up into pieces, so that there shall be as little flesh left on the -carcase as possible, and bone the leg; rub into each piece with your -fingers some salt, in which you have mixed a little saltpetre, put them -into an earthen pan, with some thyme, bay-leaf, spice, a clove of -chopped garlic, rub them for a couple of days, after which dip each -piece in water and dry on a cloth; when you have chopped fine and melted -all the fat you could get from the goose, and scraped a quarter of a -pound of fat bacon and melted with it, pass through a sieve into a -stewpan, lay the pieces in it, and bake very gently in a slow oven until -a stiff piece of straw will go through it, then lay it in a sieve; when -nearly cold put it in a bowl or round preserving jar, and press a -smaller one on the top so that it all forms one solid mass, pour the fat -over, when cold cover with a piece of bladder, keep it in a cold place, -and it will be good for months together, and is excellent for breakfast, -luncheon, or supper, having previously extracted the fat. Last winter I -kept some for three months quite sweet; having half a one left, I put it -by in the above way, bones and all, in a basin, and covered with the fat -produced with roasting, and put in the larder, and it was excellent. -Ducks may be served in the same way. - - - DUCKS.--There are several varieties of this bird, all, however, - originating from the mallard. There has not been that care and - attention paid to this bird as to the fowl; but I think it is well - worthy the attention of farmers, it being one which is exceedingly - cheap to rear; great care should be evinced in feeding it twelve - days previous to its being killed. Ducklings are considered a - luxury, but which, I think, is more to be attributed to their - scarcity than flavor. The drake is generally considered the best, - but, as a general rule, those of the least gaudy plumage are the - best; they should be hard and thick on the belly, and - limber-footed. - - -377. _Ducks roasted._--Prepare them for the spit (that is, the same as -geese, only leave the fat on), and stuff them with sage, onion, and -bread-crumbs, prepared as for the goose, roast before a very quick fire, -and serve very hot. There are many ways of cooking ducks, but this is -the plainest and the best. - - -378. _Stewed Duck and Peas._--Procure a duck trussed with the legs -turned inside, which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a -quarter of a pound of streaked bacon let remain over a fire, stirring -occasionally until lightly browned, when add a tablespoonful of flour -(mix well) and a quart of broth or water, stir round gently until -boiling, when skim, and add twenty button onions, a bunch of parsley, -with a bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a quarter of an hour, then -add a quart of nice young peas, let simmer until done, which will take -about half an hour longer, take out the duck, place it upon your dish -(taking away the string it was trussed with), take out the parsley and -bay-leaf, season the peas with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, skim -the fat, reduce a little if not sufficiently thick, pour over the duck -and serve. - - -379. _Duckling with Turnips_ is a very favorite dish amongst the middle -classes in France. Proceed as in the last, but instead of peas use about -forty pieces of good turnips cut into moderate-sized square pieces, -having previously fried them of a light yellow color in a little butter -or lard, and drained them upon a sieve, dress the duck upon a dish as -before, season the sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, reduce -until rather thickish, a thin sauce not suiting a dish of this -description; the turnips must not, however, be in puree; sauce over and -serve. - -The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as -directed for goose, and for variety, should peas be in season, a pint -previously boiled may be added to the hash just before serving. The sage -and apple must in all cases be omitted. - - -380. _Ducks a l'Aubergiste (or Tavern-keepers' fashion)._--Truss one or -two ducks with the legs turned inside, put them into a stewpan with a -quarter of a pound of butter; place them over a slow fire, turning round -occasionally, until they have taken a nice brown color, add two -spoonfuls of flour, mix well with them, add a quart of water, with half -a tablespoonful of salt and sugar, let simmer gently until the ducks are -done (but adding forty button onions well peeled as soon as it begins to -boil), keep hot; peel and cut ten turnips in slices, fry them in a -frying-pan in butter, drain upon a cloth, put them into the sauce, and -stew until quite tender; dress the ducks upon your dish, skim the fat -from the sauce, which has attained a consistency, add some fresh -mushrooms, pour round the ducks and serve. - - - - -FLANCS. - - - At this part of the dinner there are those dishes which are called - Flancs, by which is understood, those dishes whose contents are not - so large as the removes and not so small as the entrees, and the - Receipts for which may be taken from either of those departments, - with this difference;--instead of meat or poultry being cut up, it - should be left whole: for instance, a loin of mutton, instead of - being cut up into cutlets, should be served whole, with some sauce - under it, and a duck, instead of being divided, should be left - whole, with some sauce. It is also a great addition in the - appearance of the table, and should always be served in a - differently-formed dish to the entrees or removes; and are only - required when eighteen or twenty persons dine, and four corner - dishes are used. - - - - -ENTREES OR MADE DISHES. - - - ENTREES are, in common terms, what are called made-dishes; of - course, these are dishes upon which, in the high class of cookery, - the talent of the cook is displayed. Great care should be observed - in dishing them up, for the eye is a great assistance to the - palate; it often happens that the carelessness of the servant - destroys the labors of the cook, by the manner in which the dish is - taken from the kitchen to the dining-room. In some measure to avoid - that, I direct a small thin border of mashed potatoes, about half - an inch wide and a quarter of an inch deep, to be placed on the - bottom of the dish, which keeps each object in its place: they - should always be served exceedingly hot. - -_Made Dishes of Beef._--The remainder of any cooked joints of beef may -be advantageously and economically dressed in the following ways: - - -381. _Hashed Beef._--Cut the beef into small thin slices, which lay upon -a plate, and to every pound of beef add half a tablespoonful of flour, a -little chopped onion or eschalot, two salt-spoonfuls of salt, and a half -one of pepper, mix the whole well together, and put it into a saucepan, -with half a pint of water, stir it over the fire until upon the point of -boiling, when set it at the corner of the fire to simmer for ten -minutes; it is then ready to serve. A great improvement to the -appearance of hash may be effected by adding a few spoonfuls of brown -gravy (No. 177), or a teaspoonful of coloring (No. 178), which might -always be kept in a bottle. The flavor of any kind of hash may be -varied, by adding a few sprigs of parsley, or thyme, or a couple of -bay-leaves, or a little tarragon, or a few spoonfuls of catsup, Soyer's, -Harvey's, Soho, or Reading sauce. - - -382. _Miroton of Beef._--Peel and cut into thin slices two large onions, -put them in a stewpan or saucepan, with two ounces of salt butter, place -it over a slow fire, keeping the onions stirred round with a wooden -spoon until rather brown, but not burnt in the least, then add a -teaspoonful of flour, which mix well in, and moisten with half a pint of -water or broth if handy, season with three saltspoonfuls of salt, two of -sugar, and one of pepper if water has been used, but if broth, diminish -the quantity of salt, add a little coloring (No. 178), to improve its -appearance; put in the beef, which you have previously cut into small -thin slices, as free from fat as possible, let it remain a few minutes -upon the fire to simmer, and serve upon a hot dish. To vary the flavor, -a tablespoonful of vinegar might be added, or half a glass of sherry. -The above proportions are sufficient for one pound and a half of solid -meat, and of course could be increased or diminished, if more or less -meat. - - -383. _Another way._--Prepare the meat precisely as in the last, and when -done put it into a pie-dish, sprinkle bread-crumbs lightly over, enough -to cover the meat, upon which lay a small piece of butter, put the dish -in the oven for half an hour, or before the fire, with a screen behind -it, turning the dish round occasionally. By grating the crust of bread -you would obtain some brown bread-crumbs, which would do equally as well -as bread rubbed through a sieve. - -Should you have any cold from the first receipt, it may be served as -here directed; but being cold, would require to be longer in the oven to -become well hot through. - - -384. _Another way._--If any left from a previous dinner, put it in a -dish, placing the meat in the centre, rather higher, cover over with -some delicate mashed potatoes, about two inches in thickness, to form a -dome, rub some egg over with a paste-brush, and sprinkle crumbs of bread -(either grated or otherwise) upon the top, and set in the oven until -well browned, when serve. - - -385. _A quicker way._--Cook a few slices of lean bacon in a frying-pan, -but not too much, lay some of them in the bottom of the pie-dish, over -which lay slices of beef cut thin, which season with a little pepper, -salt, chopped parsley, and chopped eschalots (if not objectionable), -sprinkle over a little flour, proceeding thus until the dish is pretty -full, when pour over half a gill of broth or water, to which you have -added a little coloring, No. 178, (more seasoning would be required if -water was used), set the dish in the oven (having previously covered the -meat over with mashed potatoes) for about an hour. By adding half the -above quantity of liquor, the meat might be covered with a thin suet -crust and served as a pie, as also might any of the former receipts, in -which also a bay-leaf, chopped parsley, or even chopped gherkins, might -be served, being a great improvement. - - -386. _Beef Palates._--Although this is an article very seldom used in -small families, they are very much to be commended; they may be dressed -in various ways, and are not expensive, about four would be sufficient -for a dish. Put them into a large stewpan of lukewarm water, where let -them remain four or five hours to disgorge, after which pour off the -water, cover again with fresh water, and place the stewpan upon the fire -until the palates become hard, when take out one, which dip into cold -water, scrape it with a knife, and if the skin comes off easily, take -out the remainder, but if not, let them remain a short time longer, -scrape them until you have got off all the skin, and nothing but the -white half transparent substance remains. Then make a white stock as -directed (No. 130), in which boil them three or four hours until very -tender, which try with the point of a knife, then take them up, lay them -flat upon a dish, covered with a little of the stock, and place another -dish of the same size over, to keep them flat, let remain until cold, -when they are ready to serve in either of the following ways:-- - - -387. _Beef Palates a la Bretonne._--Peel and cut two large onions into -slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, stirring them -over the fire until lightly fried, when add a teaspoonful of flour, -which mix well in, and a gill of broth, season with a little pepper, -salt, and sugar, add a few drops of brown gravy or browning (No. 179), -and a spoonful of mustard; boil the whole, keeping it stirred until -forming a thickish pulp, when cut the palates into square pieces, and -put into it; when well hot through they are ready to serve; also make a -curry sauce, as No. 151; cut your palate and warm in it, serve with rice -separate, and it is delicious. - - -388. _Beef Palates a la Poulette._--Make a little white sauce as -directed, No. 130; after having prepared the palates, cut them into -square pieces, and put them into a stewpan, just covered with some of -the white sauce, season with a little white pepper, salt, sugar, chopped -parsley, and the juice of half a lemon; let them simmer about five -minutes, when pour in a liaison of one yolk of an egg, mixed with two -tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, stir it in rather quickly, and not -afterwards permitting it to boil, then turn it upon your dish, place -sippets of toasted bread round, and serve: chopped parsley and a little -lemon may be added. - - -389. _Beef Palates a la Maitre d'Hotel._--Cut up the palates as in the -last, and put them into a stewpan, just covered with melted butter, to -which add a gill of milk, let simmer very gently about ten minutes, -stirring it round occasionally; have ready two ounces of well-seasoned -maitre d'hotel butter, which put into the stewpan, shaking it round -until the butter is melted and well mixed, when serve as in the last. - - -390. _Ox-tails a la Jardiniere._--Cut and cook two ox-tails as directed -for soup, but just before they are done, skim well, and take out the -pieces of tails, which put upon a dish, then in another stewpan put two -ounces of butter, to which, when melted, add three ounces of flour, -stirring it over the fire until forming a brownish roux (thickening), -then mix by degrees two quarts of the stock the tails were boiled in, -and boil altogether ten minutes, then put in the tails, with one carrot -and two turnips (cut into small dice, or any other shape, with a -vegetable cutter), and about thirty button onions; let the whole simmer -very gently upon the corner of the fire, keeping it well skimmed, until -the vegetables are tender, and the sauce sufficiently thick to adhere to -the back of the spoon, when dress the meat upon a dish, reduce the -sauce, which pour over, and serve. - - -391. _Ox-tails au Gratin._--Cook two ox-tails as before, and when cold, -dry them upon a cloth, season with pepper and salt, have a couple of -eggs well beaten upon a plate, into which dip each piece singly, -afterwards throwing them into a dish of bread-crumbs, to cover every -part, then beat them lightly with a knife, and again egg and bread-crumb -them, broil them upon a gridiron, or place them in a very hot oven until -of a brownish color, when serve with any sauce you may fancy, or with a -little plain gravy. - - -392. _Ox-tails, Sauce piquante._--Cook the tails as before, and when -done dress them upon your dish pyramidically, then make about a pint of -sharp sauce, No. 135, but omitting half the quantity of vinegar, and -reducing it until rather thick; season rather highly, add three or four -gherkins chopped very fine, pour the sauce over, and serve. - - -393. _Ox Heart._--This dish, although not very _recherche_, is a good -family one, and remarkable for its cheapness. Put it into lukewarm water -one hour to disgorge, then wipe it well with a cloth, and stuff the -interior with a highly-seasoned veal stuffing, tie it up in paper, and -pass a small spit through the sides, set it before a good fire for about -two hours to roast, keeping it well basted; when done, take off the -paper, and serve with any sharp sauce, or a little plain gravy. Two -hours would be sufficient to roast a large heart; but if smaller, of -course less time in proportion would be required. I have also stuffed a -heart with sage and onion, and even ventured the apple sauce: both -succeeded admirably. - - I remember, when in business, upon one occasion, having a few - friends pop in unexpectedly about luncheon-time upon a Saturday - (which is a day I always contrived to keep my larder as short as - possible), and having nothing but a heart as a meal to give them, I - immediately gave orders to the cook to cut it into slices half an - inch thick, dip each piece in flour, and afterwards egg and - bread-crumb them, then to put four spoonfuls of oil in the - frying-pan, lay part of the pieces in, and saute of a nice color, - then to keep them hot in a dish and saute the remainder; and when - all done, to pour off part of the oil, put a teaspoonful of flour - in the pan, mixing it with the remaining oil and gravy, then - pouring in a gill of water, season with a little pepper and salt, - four spoonfuls of the vinegar from piccalilly, and a little of the - pickle finely chopped; boil the whole a minute, pour over the - heart, and serve very hot. It pleased very much, and I have since - had some with a little plain gravy, and broiled bacon: in both - instances it was very good. - - -394. _Potato Sandwiches._--Saute the slices of beef as directed for -bubble and squeak, cover one side of each piece with mashed potatoes a -quarter of an inch in thickness, egg and bread-crumb over, then proceed -the same with the other sides, fry in hot fat of a light brown color, as -you would a sole, and serve. Any kind of fresh meat may be used in the -same way. - - -395. _Bubble and Squeak._--I am certain you must know, as well as -myself, of our hereditary dish called bubble and squeak; but, like the -preparation of other things, there is a good way and a bad; and, as you -prefer the former to the latter, proceed as follows:--Boil a few greens, -or a savoy cabbage (which has been previously well-washed), in plain -water until tender, which then drain until quite dry in a colander or -sieve, put it upon a trencher, and chop it rather fine with a knife, -then for a pound of salt beef you have in slices, put nearly a quarter -of a pound of butter into a frying-pan, in which saute the beef gently -but not too dry; when done, keep it hot, put the cabbage in the -frying-pan, season with a little salt and pepper, and when hot through, -dress it upon a dish, lay the beef over and serve. Endive or large -cabbage-lettuces may be used instead of cabbage, but care must be taken -to drain off all the water. - - -396. _Stewed Beef or Rump Steak._--Have a steak weighing two pounds, and -an inch and a half in thickness, then put two ounces of butter at the -bottom of a stewpan, when melted lay in the steak, with a quarter of a -pound of lean bacon cut into very small square pieces, place the stewpan -over the fire, turning the steak over occasionally until a little -browned, when lay it out upon a dish, then add a tablespoonful of flour -to the butter in the stewpan, which continue stirring over the fire -until forming a brownish roux, then again lay in the steak, add a pint -of water, with a glass of sherry if handy, and a little pepper, salt, -and a couple of bay-leaves, let simmer slowly for one hour, when skim -off all the fat, and add twenty button onions, let it again simmer until -the onions are very tender, as likewise the steak, which dress upon a -dish, take the onions and bacon out with a colander-spoon, and lay them -upon the steak, pour the sauce round and serve. This slow process must -not alarm you. - - -397. _Ox Brains_ are prepared exactly as directed for calf's brains, but -being larger, require much longer to disgorge, as also a proportionate -time longer to cook; when done, in addition to the sauce ordered for -calf's brains, they may be served with strips of bacon broiled and -dressed in a border round, sauce over with highly-seasoned melted butter -and parsley sauce. You must observe, that all such kind of dishes being -of themselves naturally tasteless, require to be highly seasoned: any -sharp sauce is good with it. - - -398. _Beef a-la-Mode._--Procure a small piece of rump, sirloin, or ribs -of beef, about twelve pounds in weight, take away all the bone, and lard -the meat through with ten long pieces of fat bacon, then put it into a -long earthen pan, with a calf's foot, four onions, two carrots, cut in -slices if large, a bunch of parsley, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of -thyme, two cloves stuck into one of the onions, half a teaspoonful of -pepper, one of salt, four wine-glasses of sherry, four ditto of water, -and a pound of streaky bacon cut in squares, place the cover over the -pan with a piece of common flour and water paste round the edges to -keep it perfectly air-tight, and place it in a moderate oven four hours, -when take out of the pan, and dress upon a dish with the vegetables and -bacon round, skim and pass the gravy through a hair sieve, which pour -over and serve. But the above is best eaten cold, when it should not be -taken from the pan, or the pan opened until nearly so. - -A long brown earthen pan for the above purposes may be obtained at any -china warehouse, but should you not be able to procure one, a stewpan -must supply its place. - - -399. _Another method._--Have ready six pounds of rump of beef, cut into -pieces two inches square, each of which lard through with two or three -strips of bacon; have also two pounds of streaky bacon, which clear from -the rind and cut into squares half the size of the beef, put the whole -into an earthen pan, with two calf's feet (cut up small), half a pint of -sherry, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, four -onions, with a clove stuck in each, a blade of mace, and half a pint of -water, cover the pan as in the last, and put it in a moderate oven for -three hours; when done, do not remove the lid until three parts cold, -then take out the meat, lay some of the beef at the bottom of the -stewpan (not too large), then a little bacon, then more beef, and so on -alternately, press them lightly together, pass the gravy through a hair -sieve over, and leave it until quite cold and set, when dip the stewpan -into hot water, and turn it out upon a dish to serve. The calf's feet -may be made hot in a little of the stock, to which add two pats of -butter, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful of flour, season with a -little chopped parsley and half a spoonful of vinegar, and serve as an -entree. The above is excellent either hot or cold. - - -400. _Fillet of Beef._--Procure a piece of fillet of beef weighing about -two or three pounds, which may be obtained at any butcher's, being cut -from underneath the rump; trim off part of the fat, so as to round the -fillet, which cut into slices the thickness of your finger, beat them -lightly with a chopper, and cut the thin skin which covers the top of -the fillet, to prevent their curling up whilst broiling; place them -upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, seasoning with a little salt and -pepper, and turning three or four times to preserve the gravy: about six -or seven minutes will be sufficient to cook them. Three or four slices -would be sufficient for a corner dish; but if for a principal dish, of -course more would be required. Fillet of beef dressed as above may be -rubbed over with maitre d'hotel or anchovy butter, and served very hot. - - -401. _Fillet of Beef saute._--After having cut the fillet in slices as -in the last, put two ounces of butter into a clean frying-pan, which set -upon the fire, and when melted, lay in the meat, seasoned with a -saltspoonful of salt and half that quantity of pepper to each piece; -turn them over three or four times whilst cooking, and, when done, dress -upon your dish, with either of the butters mentioned in the last spread -over. - - -402. _Another method._--When the fillets are dished up, put a -tablespoonful of chopped onions into the pan they were cooked in, which -cook for about a minute, but not letting them burn, then pour off part -of the fat, if too much, and add two teaspoonfuls of flour; stir with a -wooden spoon until becoming brownish, then add nearly a pint of water, a -tablespoonful of vinegar, and a few drops of browning; let it boil a few -minutes, seasoning with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when of the -consistency of thick sauce, pour over the fillets and serve. A few -chopped pickles of any description (but not too hot) might be -introduced, but then half the quantity of vinegar would be sufficient. A -spoonful of Harvey's sauce may be added, and a little glaze improves it. - -Mutton, lamb, or pork-chops, or veal-cutlets may be dressed in a similar -manner. - - -403. _Minced Beef._--Cut a pound and a half of lean cooked beef into -very small dice, which put upon a plate; in a stewpan put a good -teaspoonful of finely-chopped onions, with a piece of butter of the size -of a walnut, which stir over the fire until the onions become lightly -browned, when stir in half a tablespoonful of flour, with which mix by -degrees half a pint of broth (or water) to which you have added a few -drops of browning and a teaspoonful of vinegar; let it boil five -minutes, stirring it the whole time; then throw in the meat, season -rather highly with a little pepper and salt, and, when hot, pour it into -a deep dish, and serve with sippets of toasted bread round, or poached -eggs on it. - - -404. _Croquettes of Beef._--Proceed precisely as in the last, but -omitting the vinegar; when done, stir in two yolks of eggs quickly, stir -another minute over the fire, then pour it upon a dish until cold; have -a couple of eggs well beaten upon a plate, also some bread-crumbs in a -separate dish, then divide the preparation into about a dozen pieces, -which roll up into round balls, or any other shape, and throw them into -the bread-crumbs, move them over until well covered, then roll them into -the egg, then the bread-crumbs again, from which take them gently, -patting the surface lightly with a knife, put them into very hot lard or -fat to fry of a yellowish-brown color, being careful not to break them -whilst frying; when done drain them upon a cloth, and serve either upon -a napkin or with fried parsley. - - -405. _A Family French Salad for the Summer._--I can assure you that, -when in France during the hot weather, I used to enjoy the following -salads immensely, having them usually twice a week for my dinner; they -are not only wholesome, but cheap and quickly done. Cut up a pound of -cold beef into thin slices, which put into a salad-bowl with about half -a pound of white fresh lettuce, cut into pieces similar to the beef, -season over with a good teaspoonful of salt, half that quantity of -pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar, and four of good salad oil, stir all -together lightly with a fork and spoon, and when well mixed it is ready -to serve. - -For a change, cabbage-lettuce may be used, or, if in season, a little -endive (well washed), or a little celery, or a few gherkins; also, to -vary the seasoning, a little chopped tarragon and chervil, chopped -eschalots, or a little scraped garlic, if approved of, but all in -proportion, and used with moderation. White haricot beans are also -excellent with it. - - -406. _Potatoes and Meat Salad._--Proceed as in the last, but omitting -the lettuce; if any cold potatoes remain from a previous dinner, peel -and cut them in halves if small, but in quarters if large, and then into -pieces the size of a shilling but four times the thickness; put them -into a salad-bowl with the meat, seasoning as before, but using more oil -and vinegar, and adding a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. A small -quantity of any description of pickles might be added to this salad, as -also some anchovies or olives. The remains of any fowls, turkey, cold -veal, lamb, or even mutton, may be mixed in salads, but, according to -our habits, many persons would fancy they were not nutritious; of that I -can assure them to the contrary.[7] - - -407. _Ox-Kidneys._--Cut a nice fresh ox-kidney into slices, each being -about the size of a half-crown piece, but double the thickness (avoiding -the white part, or root, which is tough and indigestible), then put a -quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan upon the fire, and when very -hot but not black, put in the pieces of kidney, stirring them round with -a wooden spoon three minutes over a brisk fire; then add, for each pound -weight of kidney, half a tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of -salt, half the quantity of pepper, and a little sugar, moisten with a -gill of water and half a glass of sherry, add a little browning if -handy, and let simmer gently for five minutes, stirring them round -occasionally; if too thick, add a few drops more of water, the same -should be sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, pour -them out upon your dish, and serve very hot. Broth might be used instead -of water if convenient, but then the seasoning should be a little -diminished, a little chopped eschalot, parsley, or a few mushrooms, -would be an improvement. - -By cutting an ox-kidney lengthwise in three slices, it might be broiled -or sauted; if for gentlemen, season rather highly, but if ladies are to -be the partakers, season more moderately; a little gravy may be served -with it, to which you have added a little catsup; the root of the kidney -must not be cut away in this case, although not eatable. Ox-kidneys are -also an excellent addition to beef-steak puddings and pies. - - -408. _Ox-Feet or Cow-Heels_ are very nutritious, especially when well -boiled; they may be served in either of the methods directed for tripe, -or with a plain parsley-and-butter sauce, to which, for a change, the -juice of a lemon or a drop of vinegar may be added. Should any be left -from the first day's dinner, it may be served a la Lyonnaise, as -directed for cold tripe. - - -409. _Remains of Ox-Tongue._--The remains of a tongue from a previous -dinner may be again served thus:--Cut it into thin slices, put a small -piece of butter into a frying-pan, lay the pieces of tongue over, which -warm a few minutes in a saute-pan, and serve with veal or fowl, if any; -when at home alone, I frequently have it with mashed potatoes under, it -makes a very good dish for luncheon. The pieces of tongue might also be -egged and bread-crumbed previous to cooking as above, and served with a -plain gravy, or any sharp sauce. (See Sauces.) Or should you have any -tongue, and veal or beef remaining, sprinkle a little chopped eschalots -at the bottom of a pie-dish, lay a layer of meat over, season with a -little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, then a layer of the tongue; -have some yellowish crusts of bread grated, a teaspoonful of which -sprinkle over the tongue, then again a layer of the meat, proceeding -thus until the dish is nearly full, when sprinkle more of the brown -bread-crumbs over the top, placing a small piece of butter here and -there; pour in two wineglassfuls of water, set it in a warm oven half an -hour, and serve very hot. Or instead of bread-crumbs, make a little good -mashed potatoes, which spread over it smoothly with a spoon or knife, -bake half an hour in a warm oven, and serve. - -Should the remains of a tongue be but small, and if well pickled and -boiled, the root and all would be excellent in any kind of beef, lamb, -mutton, veal, or pork, hashed, or in pies or puddings made from those -meats. - - -410. _Remains of Salt Beef._--The remains of salt beef are very -excellent, served in the few following ways, no matter from what joint, -or from what part of the joint: cut as large and thin slices as -possible, dip each slice into some vinegar from mixed pickles, -previously poured upon a plate in small quantities; lay about a pound -of the meat thus prepared upon a flat dish, pour a wineglassful of water -over, warm it through in the oven, or before a small fire, and serve. -Another way is, after having dipped the beef in pickles, roll them in -flour and proceed as above, adding double the quantity of water. Another -way is to saute the slices with a little butter in a frying-pan, have -ready some nice mashed potatoes very hot, lay the beef over, and serve. - - - _Fricandeau of Veal._--This is a very favorite dish of mine. It is - generally considered an expensive one, but the way in which I do - it, it is not so; besides which, it gives a nice piece of veal at - table, when a fillet would be too large. I proceed to prepare it - thus: - -411. Having the fillet prepared with the bone out as if for roasting, I -lay it on a board with the skin side downwards, and then remove (not -cutting it) that part of the outside which is separated from the thick -fleshy part (in France called "la noix") of the fillet by a skin; I then -place my hand on the top of the thick part, and cut away two thirds of -it, leaving an inch to an inch and a half of flesh for the fillet. I -then take a chopper dipped in cold water, and beat the veal with the -flat part, so as to make it of an equal thickness; I then lard it (see -Larding). You may not succeed very well the first or second time, but -now I am quite an artist in larding, as is also my cook, whom I taught, -it being so much like sewing. But should you not be able to manage it, -you must send it to the poulterer. The remains make an excellent fillet -for another day's dinner. Having proceeded thus far, I then cook it in -the following manner: - - -412. I take a stewpan of a convenient size, and lay on the bottom six or -eight slices of bacon, and place the fricandeau on them; I then take two -onions, two small carrots cut in slanting pieces, which place round it; -I then make a bouquet of ten sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two of -bay-leaf, which I put in with two cloves, half a blade of mace, and -about a pint of broth or water, so as not to cover the larding; if no -broth, use water and a teaspoonful of salt, cover it with a sheet of -buttered paper, set it on a moderate fire; when on the point of boiling, -put it in a slack oven, where let it remain for two or three hours; be -careful every twenty minutes to moisten or baste the fricandeau with the -gravy which is in the stewpan; the slower it is done the better; ten -minutes before it is removed from the oven, take off the paper, in order -that the top may obtain a nice yellow color; if the oven should not be -hot enough, place live coals on the lid of the stewpan until done, try -also if it is tender with a pointed knife. - - This dish ought to be carved with a spoon, being so tender; but I - prefer to cut it with a very sharp knife, as it is more inviting in - appearance. If you have no oven ready, stew gently on a hot plate, - or by the side of the stove, with the lid on and live coals on the - top. If you let it burn by any neglect or accident, do not tell - your friends that I gave you the receipt, as it would eat so very - bad, and I should lose my good name. It can be served with any - sauce or puree, but the one I prefer is as follows: Take the gravy - from the stewpan, which ought to be about half a pint, if not so - much add water, pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, remove - the fat from the top, put it into a small stewpan, reduce it a - little to a demi-glaze, mix half a teaspoonful of arrow-root in a - cup, with a little water, put it in the gravy, boil two minutes; it - ought to be of a bright yellow color, and transparent; the - fricandeau should be served with gravy under it. The following - purees are excellent to serve with it: sorrel, endive, peas, beans, - artichokes, and spinach; tomato, mushroom, and cucumber sauces, &c. - If a piece of udder can be procured, stew it with the fricandeau, - and serve it in the same dish. This receipt will well repay the - trouble attending it. The following is very good, and more simple. - - -413. _Fricandeau Bourgeoise, in its Gravy._--Cut as before from the -fillet, cut the bacon the same as for the neck, and laid with about -thirty large pieces, but in a slanting direction, leaving but little of -the bacon to be seen, as the object is to give all the advantage of the -bacon to the meat; put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of -butter, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and one tenth of that of pepper; -set it on the fire for five minutes, turn it with a fork round and -round, then rake some cinders over the coals or charcoal so as to make -it go slow, and until it becomes of a nice yellow color; then add a gill -of water, a bay-leaf, half an onion, stew until quite tender, turning it -over and over now and then; put it on a dish, skim the fat off the -gravy, pour it over, and serve. It may also be served thus: by throwing -into the stewpan about twenty mushrooms, well washed about ten minutes -before serving; if the gravy is too thin, add a little arrow-root, and -serve: it can also be served with the sauces named in the former -Receipt. Nothing is nicer cold than this; if required to be re-warmed, -put it into a little broth or warm water, and heat slowly. - - -414. _Calf's Liver saute._--Cut it into slices, put a little butter in -the saute- or frying-pan, when melted, lay the liver in season with salt, -pepper, a teaspoonful of chopped eschalot, parsley, and grated nutmeg, -saute on a sharp fire, when rather brown on both sides dredge a -tablespoonful of French vinegar, or a glass of wine, stir it well, and -boil for a few minutes; dish the liver in crowns; if the sauce is too -pale, add a little mushroom catsup or coloring, and it had better be too -thin than too thick; taste if well seasoned, and serve: the above is for -about two pounds of liver. - - -415. _Calf's Liver, English way._--Cut the liver into thin slices, dip -them in flour, and put in a saute or frying-pan in which some slices of -bacon have been previously cooked, and have left sufficient fat in it; -saute the liver until quite brown and rather crisp, when take out and -place it upon a dish with the bacon, then dredge a spoonful of flour in -the pan, or enough to absorb all the fat in it, then add a little broth -or water so as to make it a thinnish sauce, season it, and add two -spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce or mushroom catsup. If the above is nicely -done, and the pieces cut the size of cutlets, it will make a nice entree -for an ordinary dinner. It should be served immediately, and very hot. - - -416. _Calf's Liver, dry._--The same may be served dry with the bacon, or -with any sharp sauce. - - -417. _Calf's Heart, roasted._--Proceed exactly the same as for ox's -heart, only this being more delicate and smaller requires less time to -roast, from half an hour to one hour, depending on the size; they may -also be cut in slices and sauted like the liver above; or, by having -four for a large dish they may be dressed exactly like the liver (No. -415), but white instead of brown; stuff them and saute white in butter, -which depends on a slow fire, and, adding the flour, just give a few -turns and add the broth immediately, then the onions and mushrooms, -season as described in the liver, stew very gently for one hour, take -out the hearts, skim off the fat, let it be thickish, boil down a little -if required, prepare two yolks of eggs well beaten, with a quarter of a -gill of milk, broth, or water, which pour into the same, stir quick for -half a minute, add the juice of half a lemon, trim the hearts, dish them -in a dish with the points upwards, pour the sauce over, and serve. - - -418. _Roast Sweetbreads._--Take the sweetbreads and lay them in water at -blood-heat, to disgorge, for three to four hours; then blanch them for -two minutes in boiling water, put them into a stewpan with a few slices -of carrot, onions, turnip, a little parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, six -peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a small piece of bacon, cover over -with a little broth or water, and let it boil for twenty minutes; take -them out and dry them in a cloth, egg and bread-crumb them, tie them on -a spit, and roast a nice brown color for ten to fifteen minutes; or they -may be browned in an oven, or fried in very hot lard for ten minutes, in -which case they should stew a little longer; they may be served with -plain gravy and a piece of toasted bread under, or a little melted -butter and some Harvey's, Reading, or Soyer's sauce, and a little catsup -added to it, boiled and poured round it; or with any of the sauces -fricandeau. The heart-bread being generally so expensive, I seldom make -use of it, but it may be blanched, larded, cooked, and served like the -fricandeau, diminishing the larding and cooking according to the size of -the bread, or it may be dressed as above, or, if a large throat-bread, -it may be larded. - - -419. _Sweetbreads saute._--Blanch two throat-sweetbreads as in the -preceding receipt, cut them in slices, put some butter in a frying-pan, -and melt; then put in the sweet-bread, season over with salt, pepper, -juice of a lemon, parsley, and bay-leaf; turn them until done, and serve -very hot, with maitre d'hotel sauce over. - - -420. _Another way._--Prepare as above; add a little flour and a gill of -broth, a few raw mushrooms, stir continually to prevent burning, add a -few spoonfuls of cream and serve; if any remain, do them _au gratin_, -that is, put them in a pie-dish or flat plated dish, brown, bread-crumb -over, add a little broth, put into an oven, and, when very hot, serve. - - -421. _Veal Cutlets (old English method)._--See No. 157. - - -422. _Veal Cutlets aux Fines Herbes._--Cut from the neck the same as you -would from mutton, only of course larger; sprinkle with salt, pepper, -and chopped eschalot, set them on a gridiron and broil like common -chops, serve plain, or rub a little maitre d'hotel butter over them, set -in a hot place for a few moments, and serve. They may also be sauted, by -putting them into a saute-pan and saute until a nice color, take them -out and put in the pan a spoonful of chopped onions, parsley, and -mushrooms (if handy), stir until done, then add a teaspoonful of flour; -when it is a little brown, add half a pint of water, two spoonfuls of -Harvey's sauce and one of vinegar, stir well round, dish up the cutlets, -sauce over and serve. They may also be larded like the fricandeau, and -served in the same way, and with the like sauces, only less time in -cooking. - - -423. _Veal Cutlets en papillote._--Prepare as the last, and put them in -a pie-dish and pour the sauce over, and let them remain until cold; then -cut a sheet of foolscap paper in the shape of a heart, and oil or butter -it; lay one of the cutlets with a little of the sauce on one half of the -paper, turn the other half over, then turn and plait the edges of the -paper over, beginning at the top of the heart and finishing with an -extra twist at the bottom, which will cause the sauce to remain in it; -broil slowly on a gridiron for twenty minutes on a very slow fire, or -place it in the oven for that time, and serve. - - -424. _Calf's Ears stewed._--If you make mock turtle with half a calf's -head, you may serve the ear; after having boiled the head as for mock -turtle, cut out the ear (it should weigh about half a pound), lay it -down on a board and make a few incisions through the thin gristly part -about one inch long; should it require a little more doing, put it in -the soup; when done, stand it on the dish in which you intend to serve -it, turn the top of the ear over outside, so that it forms a round; if -any brain to spare, put a piece in the centre, sauce over when very hot -with parsley and butter, tomato, or any sharp sauce, and serve; or, -instead of the brain, veal stuffing or forcemeat may be used; egg all -over, bread-crumb, put in an oven until very hot and a nice yellow -color, dish and serve with plain gravy: or it may be served with any -sauce or ragout. - - -425. _Made Dish from Joints that have been previously served._--(If from -braised veal, with vegetables.) Cut it into slices about a quarter of an -inch in thickness, then put the remainder, vegetables and gravy, if any, -in a pan; if not, with water and a piece of glaze; season with a little -salt, pepper, sugar, a bay-leaf, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon, -simmer gently for twenty minutes on a slow fire, dish the fillets in the -form of a crown, lay the vegetables in the middle, pour gravy over, and -serve. Or, what remains, cut into very small dice, leave none on the -bones, put in a pan, shake a little flour over, season with a little -salt, pepper, sugar, bay-leaf, and the juice of a quarter of a lemon, -then moisten it with milk sufficient to make a sauce, warm it for ten -minutes, add half an ounce of butter, stir it well, and serve very hot: -or, if you prefer it brown, leave out the milk and throw a few chopped -mushrooms and eschalots in, and moisten with a little water, to which -add a few drops of browning, or a little catsup; it ought never to be -too thick. Poached eggs may be served with these. - - -426. _Calf's Brains fried._--Prepare them as for calf's head; cut them -in pieces of about two inches square, dip them into batter, and fry them -immersed in fat; serve with fried parsley. - - -427. _Calf's Brains a la Maitre d'Hotel._--Prepare the brain as before, -warm six spoonfuls of melted butter; when hot, add one ounce of maitre -d'hotel butter, and, when melted, pour it over. - - -428. _Stewed Calf's Liver._--Choose a nice fat one rather white in -color, lard it through with bacon, put one quarter of a pound of butter -in a pan, when melted add a tablespoonful of flour, keep stirring until -a nice yellow color, then put in the whole of the liver, turn round now -and then until it is a little firm, then add a pint of broth or water, -and a glass of any kind of wine, a bouquet of parsley, thyme, -bay-leaves, a little salt, pepper, sugar, and thirty button onions, -simmer one hour; take the fat off and the bouquet out, dish the liver -with the onions around it, reduce the sauce, so that it adheres lightly -to the back of the spoon, sauce over, and serve. Any vegetables may be -used, as carrots, turnips, peas, haricots; and if a little gelatine or -isinglass is added to the sauce, and the liver with the sauce only put -into a round basin and pressed down and left until cold, it will make a -nice dish for supper, lunch, or breakfast. If required to be re-warmed, -cut it into slices, put it in a pan, with a drop of water added to the -gravy. - - -429. _Sheep's Brains._--Proceed as for calf's brains: these being -smaller do not require so long to cook; though very good, they are not -so delicate as calf's brains. - - -430. _Sheep's Kidneys._--For a small dish procure six fresh ones, take -off the thin skin which covers them, and cut them into slices, put in a -saute-pan one ounce of butter, when melted and nearly brown, add the -kidneys, with half a teaspoonful of salt, one quarter ditto of pepper, -half a tablespoonful of flour, mix well together, add half a wine-glass -of sherry and a gill of broth, simmer for a few minutes, and serve very -hot; a nice crisp toast placed under them is an improvement; also, a few -raw mushrooms, cut in slices, added when being sauted, are excellent. -For broiled kidneys, see Breakfast. They can also be cut in half and -cooked the same, and dished in a crown on a border of mashed potatoes. - - - 431. _Sheep's Feet or Trotters._--Previous to visiting the - Continent, I had quite a dislike to the unfortunate _Pied de - Mouton_, whose blackish appearance in stall and basket seemed to be - intended to satisfy the ravenous appetites of the gentlemen with - the slouched hat. But I must say since I have tasted them in - France, cooked a la poulette, I have become of quite another - opinion, and I have prepared them at home thus:-- - -I get a dozen of them from the tripe-butcher, all cleaned and ready, and -beg of him to extract the long bone from them. I put a quarter of a -pound of beef or mutton suet in a stewpan, with two onions and one -carrot sliced, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, one ounce of salt, a -quarter of an ounce of pepper, put on the fire, and cook five minutes; -add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir it round; add two quarts and a -half of water, then put in the feet, stir till boiling, simmer for -nearly three hours, or until the feet are perfectly tender, when done, -take them out, and lay on sieve, take a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, a teaspoonful of salt, the same of flour, a quarter of one of -pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice of a lemon, mix all these well -together on a plate with the back of a spoon; put the feet with a gill -of milk in a stewpan on the fire, when very hot, put in the butter, stir -continually till melted, having previously well mixed two yolks of eggs -with five tablespoonfuls of milk or cream, which put in the stewpan, -keep moving the pan round over the fire continually for one minute, -serve in a very hot dish with croutons of fried bread cut in triangular -pieces round the dish. The stock may be used for any puree or thick -soup. - - -432. _French Ragout of Mutton._--Take about two pounds of the scrag of -the neck, breast, chump, or any other part, with as little fat as -possible, cut it into pieces of about two inches square, put into a pan -two ounces of butter, or good fat, when melted, add two tablespoonfuls -of flour, stir with a wooden spoon till forming a brownish roux, add the -meat, and stir it round for twenty minutes, add a little water, but not -enough to cover the meat, one saltspoonful of pepper, four ditto of -salt, and four ditto of sugar, a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley, stir -till boiling, set it to simmer. Having previously peeled a few turnips, -cut in large dice of one inch square about thirty pieces, put some fat -in a frying-pan, and fry the turnips until rather brown, take them out, -and put them in a stewpan with the meat when it is done, which will be -in about one hour from the time it was put on; when ready to serve, take -out the meat and turnips, squeeze the bouquet, which throw away, skim -off the fat, if too thick, add a little broth or water, or, if too -thin, boil it a little more, dish it up by placing the pieces in a -circle and the turnips in the centre, sauce over, and serve very hot--if -not it is spoilt. For those that like it, a small piece of scraped -garlic may be added. Onions, carrots, peas, &c., may be used in place of -the turnips. - - This is a very favorite dish in France; I learnt it from an old - French emigre, who used to visit us about ten years since. When I - have company, I use the chops of the neck, dress them in a crown, - placing the vegetables in the centre; I find them very much liked. - I have at some houses partaken of harico-mutton which has been - tolerably good, but nothing in flavor to this plan. If there is any - left, it is good warmed again, or even cold. - - -433. _Irish Stew._--Cut up about two pounds of the neck of the mutton -into small cutlets, which put into a proper sized stewpan with some of -the fat of the mutton, season with three spoonfuls of salt, half an -ounce of pepper, the same of sugar, six middle-sized onions, a quart of -water; set them to boil and simmer for half an hour, then add six -middling-sized potatoes, cut them in halves or quarters, stir it -together, and let it stew gently for about one hour longer; if too fat -remove it from the top, but if well done the potatoes would absorb all, -and eat very delicate; any other part of the mutton may be served in the -same way. I hope dearest----, that you will not blame my apparent common -taste in saying that I am fond of an Irish stew. I always recommend it -to my friends; I often add a bay-leaf to it, which varies the flavor. - - - - -LETTER No. XIII - - - DEAREST ELOISE,--I certainly here must avail myself of M. Soyer's - kind permission by taking from his 'Gastronomic Regenerator' a very - simple receipt, it is true, but one which, in my estimation, has a - great deal more merit than that of a sumptuous dish--a new mutton - chop; yes, dearest, that is all. Many will very likely laugh at me, - and think I am joking to take notice of a dish of such trifling - importance, but, indeed, I assure you that I am far from that, - because I have tried it for my dinner to-day, and in my opinion it - is as far superior to the other as silver is to copper; and it was - only in an enlightened era of wonders like ours that such a novelty - in the culinary department could have been produced; where steam, - gas, railways, electric light, suspended bridges, which seem to fly - like zephyrs across the bosom of our mighty, wealthy, old Father - Thames, and the subterranean promenade under his gutta-percha bed, - where, as the French say, the fishes from their windows make faces - at the English while walking below, as well as (and more wonderful - still) the electric telegraph, which, even more freely than - free-trade itself, carries like lightning the flashes of the genius - of a Cobden from our great commercial town of Manchester to - Printing-house square and various offices the sparks of a speech, - which, if printers were careless, might set the paper on fire, by - acquainting the metropolis not only of his love for freedom, but of - his enthusiastic action, motion, commotion, and almost his - thoughts; even the cheerings of the _convives_ are actually in - print, and read with the greatest anxiety by the multitude in town, - while the report of the last and most powerful line just put to - press is still roaring with echo throughout the vast cupola of the - Free Trade Hall as well as in the ears of thousands of guests - present who have been favored by partaking of the monster banquet; - and as well, but not so wonderful, the invention, insurrection, and - demolition of the Chartists--the last effected by special order and - special constables; the Satanic bottle, double sight, and - etherienne suspension of the inimitable Robert le Diable, by - mistake called Robert Houdin; Banyard's Yankee cabinet picture, - 3000 miles long, out of which 2999 and three quarters are out of - sight; more so than all, the discovery of rocky dust, called gold, - in the barbarian land of California, where the humble and - convalescent potato would be worth its weight of the precious - metal, a loaf of bread three times as much, and a basin of poor - man's soup a guinea instead of a penny as here. Have we not also - heard of the great sea serpent, which a very serious American, who - appears to have been in company with him, says that he was so - tarnation long, that whilst engaged in dining out upon 4000 or 5000 - turtles in Honduras, the end of his tail was at the same time - hunting the white bear in the crystallized mountains of the North - Pole for his supper, being something of an epicure, and - consequently fond of a change? These, dearest, are FACTS that no - one can deny," I guess; "and still it was to be among all these - marvellous wonders that the innovation of a new mutton chop should - emanate from the brain of a simple individual, while, for a century - previous, the ancestors of our great grandfathers were, as we were - till the present day, often obliged to satisfy their voracious - appetite with a fat and clumsy mutton chop. Even now, dear, you - will hardly be able to comprehend the meaning of my enthusiasm for - this simple innovation: it is then for its great simplicity and - cheapness, and that if in general use (as I sincerely hope it will - be), thousands will be able to partake of it and enjoy it, and - probably will keep a friendly remembrance of the name of its - inventor, because any one who invents, or tries so to do, attempts - to conquer the greatest difficulty to obtain fame and wealth, and - which by others is always envied and tried to be surpassed; such is - the world. While here, the humble, unassuming, disinterested - inventor of the said mutton chop will not even have the honor of - opposition, though he may be copied. Believe me, dearest, that is - the only cause of my admiration. Now for this wonder. - -[Illustration] - - -434. _Soyer's New Mutton Chop._--Trim a middling-sized saddle of mutton, -which cut into chops half an inch in thickness with a saw, without at -all making use of a knife (the sawing them off jagging the meat and -causing them to eat more tender), then trim them to the shape -represented in the drawing, season well with salt and pepper, place them -upon a gridiron over a sharp fire, turning them three or four times; -they would require ten minutes cooking; when done, dress them upon a hot -dish, spread a small piece of butter over each (if approved of), and -serve: by adding half a tablespoonful of Soyer's Gentlemen's or Ladies' -Sauce to each chop when serving, and turning it over two or three times, -produces an excellent entree; the bone keeping the gravy in whilst -cooking, it is a very great advantage to have chops cut after the above -method. At home when I have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut two or -three such chops, which I broil, rub maitre d'hotel butter over, and -serve with fried potatoes round, using the remainder of the saddle next -day for a joint. The above are also very excellent, well seasoned and -dipped into egg and bread-crumbs previous to broiling. Lamb chops may be -cut precisely the same, but require a few minutes less broiling. - - You must remark that, by this plan, the fat and lean are better - divided, and you can enjoy both; whilst the other is a lump of meat - near the bone and fat at the other end, which partly melts in - cooking, and is often burnt by the flame it makes; the new one not - being divided at the bone, keeps the gravy in admirably. If well - sawed it should not weigh more than the ordinary one, being about - half the thickness. Do try them, and let me know your opinion. - -Ever yours, -HORTENSE. - - - - - - -LETTER No. XIV - - - DEAR HORTENSE,--Yours of last night was received at our - supper-table, which was surrounded by a few of our best friends, - and I need not tell you the merriment it has created respecting - your fantastic ideas of this age of wonders. A very sedate old - gentleman, who happened to have met you at Mr. H.'s party about a - week or two ago, and wished to be very courteous to you, and - perhaps you did not notice his compliments, not only would he not - give a smile to our hearty laugh, but actually swore that such - comical nonsense was very dangerous to expose before the public, - and especially if we intended to give publicity to it with the - Receipts, the last of which he very much approved of. But - respecting your fun on the review of our century,--"A woman," said - he, "ought never to interfere with politics!" "Politics!" we all - exclaimed, "where do you see anything political in it?" "In almost - every word," replied he. "But in what part?" said we; "explain - yourself." Unfortunately our hero stuttered very much. "Now, - it-it-it is not one of-of-of you here, perhaps, who-who-who - a-a-a-ve been in ann-y-pu-pu-public office like me in ma-ma-my - youth. I was cla-cla-cla-clerk of the second cla-cla-clerk of the - first cla-cla-cla-clerk of the private secretary's - cla-cla-cla-clerk of the Home of-of-of----" Here, dear, we all - burst out laughing, which made the old gentleman so mad that he - rushed from the room into the passage, to the street-door, and out - of the house, without his hat, Welsh wig, great coat, and umbrella, - while the servant had a regular race to get hold of him. She at - last found him talking to himself under one of our willow-trees in - the garden, coming back for his tackle with his two hands over his - red wig, and his thick head underneath. Being a wet night, after - inquiring of the servant what he had said to her--"Ma-ma-ma-rie," - said he, "you are a ve-ve-ve-very good girl indeed, very good girl, - and I-I-I-I am ve-ve-ve-very sorry I have no money with me to - gi-gi-gi-gi-give you something for your trouble, especially as you - will ne-ne-ne-never see me here again, no, ne-ne-never." "Never - mind, sir, about the money," said she to him, "I am no more - disappointed than usual. Good night, sir." "Mary, you are a - ve-ve-very sau-saucy huzzy, a ve-very saucy huzzy," was his answer. - He then gradually disappeared in the fog. In a few seconds after, - she heard some one sneezing most fearfully in the direction he was - gone, which she believed to be our stuttering friend. So, you see, - dear, there is quite an event on a mutton chop. But let me tell you - that, though your receipt came rather late, we still had some for - supper, and very good they were; every one was delighted with them; - in fact, we did not eat hardly anything else, being so comically - introduced to us. I had them brought up at three different times - broiling hot from the gridiron. I made twelve chops out of a - middle-sized saddle of mutton, weighing about seven pounds: is that - right? and I have about three pounds of chump remaining, which, of - course, I intend making broth, Irish stew, or pies with. But, - dearest, let us go through the remainder of the Receipts without - any more interruption. - - My husband begs to be kindly remembered to you both. Ever yours, - -ELOISE. - - - -[Illustration] - - -435. _Mutton Cutlets_.--Trim a neck of mutton by cutting away the scrag -and sawing off three inches of the rib-bone, then cut about ten cutlets -out of the neck, shape them by chopping off the thick part of the -chine-bone, beat them flat to about a quarter of an inch in thickness -with a cutlet-chopper, dipped in cold water, detach an inch of fat from -the top of the rib-bone, and trim it like the following cut, season with -a little salt and pepper, then well beat up one egg, dip a brush into -it, and rub it lightly over the chop, dip it into bread-crumbs, form it -into shape again, and dress in the following ways:-- - -Put two ounces of butter into a saute-pan or very clean omelette-pan, -melt it, and put the cutlets in; put it on the fire for five minutes -till it is of a nice yellow color; turn them, let them remain four -minutes longer, try if they are done by pressing with the finger, they -ought to be firm and full of gravy; lay them on a clean cloth, and dress -them in the form of a crown, that is, by keeping the thick part at the -bottom, and the scraped part of the bone at the top, and each one -resting half-way on the other. Every dish of cutlets must be served -thus. - - -436. _Cutlets with Mushrooms._--If for ten or twelve cutlets take about -twenty fresh mushrooms, cut off the tails, wash them, and dry on a -cloth, put two pats of butter in a stewpan, half a gill of water, the -juice of a lemon, a little salt and pepper, set on the fire; boil for a -few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, when very hot -add a liaison of the yolk of an egg made as follows: - -Put the yolk in a cup, and mix well with two tablespoonfuls of milk, -stir well for one minute, put it in the middle of your pan, if no white -sauce, add a little milk to the mushrooms, and mix a little flour with -half a pat of butter, and put it in, keep stirring until boiling; dish -up the cutlets, add the liaison, and serve; or still plainer, take the -same number of mushrooms, wash well, cut in thin slices, put into a -stewpan, with two pats of butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, a little -salt and pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a little water; stew gently -for ten minutes, serve, pouring the sauce over, or in the middle of the -cutlets. - -They can be served as cutlets a la jardiniere, with peas, with tomatoes, -with artichokes, with spinach, a la poiverade, a la sauce piquante, with -Brussels sprouts, and a la Soubise. - - -437. _Cutlets a la Maitre d'Hotel._--When the cutlets are done, dish -them up, put two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter in a clean saute-pan, -keep it moving until melted: put two spoonfuls of cream when very hot, -pour over, and serve with fried potatoes in the middle. - - -438. _Cutlets, plainer way._--Cut them from the neck, beat them down -roughly without trimming, put them on the gridiron, when warm through, -add salt, pepper, and very fine chopped onions, turn several times, they -will take about ten minutes broiling; dish very hot, and serve. They may -also be served on very white mashed potatoes. - - -439. _Sheep's Tongue, Demi-Glaze._--For one dish, take six, put them in -water to disgorge, then dry them, put them in a stewpan with two onions, -half a large carrot, a bouquet of two bay-leaves, one sprig of thyme, a -quart of broth if handy, or water, half a spoonful of salt, put them on -to boil, and simmer for two hours till done; try if tender with a -pointed knife, if so take them out, skin them, trim out all the roots, -cut the tongue in two, lengthwise, giving it a little of the shape of -cutlets, skim the fat from the stock, reduce the whole or part to a -demi-glaze, put your pieces on a dish, when ready to serve, make a thin -roll of mashed potatoes, and dish them round it, add a little sugar to -the demi-glaze, and a small piece of butter, stir round till melted, add -the juice of half a lemon, pour boiling hot over the tongue, the sauce -ought to adhere thickly to the back of the spoon. Observe, dear, how -cheaply this dish may be procured, and I assure you it is very -excellent: I have tried it with almost all the sauces I have described -for cutlets, and have found it good with all; they are also very good in -papillote, like veal cutlets. - - -440. _Sheep's Hearts._--Proceed exactly as with the calf's heart, only -diminish the time of cooking in proportion to the size, about thirty -minutes will be sufficient; serve with any kind of sharp sauce, or any -ragout of vegetables. - - - - -DISHES WITH THE REMAINS OF LAMB. - - -441. _Mince Lamb._--(See Veal.) Serve with poached eggs over. - - -442. _Remains of roast or boiled Lamb with Peas._--Cut up about two -pounds, bones included, in rather small pieces, put into a -convenient-sized stewpan, add to it two teaspoonfuls of flour, one of -chopped onions, one of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, half a pint of -water, stir gently until near boiling, add one bay-leaf, and one pint of -very green peas already boiled, simmer and serve. Half an hour is -sufficient to prepare this dish; peas left from a previous day can be -used, also cauliflower if not too much broken, and gently simmered, also -a few mushrooms, or if no vegetables, add a little liaison, and the -juice of half a lemon. - - -443. _Lamb's Feet_ are much more delicate than sheep's trotters, but -they are cooked and dressed the same, only in less time. If there are -any left cold, cut them in two, put them in a basin, pour over a glass -of vinegar, half of ditto of oil, one onion sliced, salt, pepper, fry -them for twenty minutes, dip each piece in a batter, and fry a nice -yellow color in fat; serve on a napkin. - - -444. _Lamb's Heart._--Six will make a nice dish; stuff like calf's -heart, only adding to it some bits of ham or red tongue; stew and serve -with any kind of sauce. - - -445. _Lamb Cutlets._--Ten cutlets would be sufficient for a dish, and -might be cut from one neck, as described for mutton cutlets (page 182), -but leaving them as large as possible; that is, about one third less -than the mutton, season them lightly with salt and pepper, egg and -bread-crumb them over, afterwards beating them gently with a knife, to -put them again into shape; then have a little clarified butter upon a -plate, into which dip each cutlet separately, afterwards throwing them -into bread-crumbs, giving them another coat, and beat again. Then if -wanted of a very nice color, put four spoonfuls of salad oil into a -saute-pan, lay in the cutlets and set them over a sharp fire, turning -when required, six or eight minutes would be sufficient to do them -nicely; when done, lay them upon a cloth a moment to drain, glaze, and -dish them in crown upon your dish, and serve with cucumbers stewed in -the centre. - -Lamb cutlets may also be served with stewed peas, French beans, -spinach, asparagus points, sauce jardiniere, reforme, poiverade, -piquante, or maitre d'hotel, which will be found in the series of -sauces, or lamb cutlets may be broiled instead of fried, or served a la -Maintenon, as directed for veal cutlets. - - -446. _Lamb Chops._--Select a fine loin of lamb with the kidney in it, -trim off the flap, and with a very sharp knife cut your chops from half -to three quarters of an inch in thickness, cutting about eight chops -from the loin, three of which should have a piece of the kidney -attached. I also cut two chops from the chump, which are very excellent -eating, although clumsier in shape. Lay three of them upon a gridiron -over a rather brisk but very clear fire, for if smoky it would entirely -spoil the look and flavor of the lamb; and when just warmed through, -season upon each side with a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of that -quantity of pepper; broil of a nice yellow color, and serve with fried -parsley over if convenient. Or lay some nice mashed potatoes upon your -dish, and serve the chops upon it. - - -447. _Lamb Chops in paper, with fine herbs._--Cut a piece of foolscap -paper in the shape of a heart (and sufficiently large to fold a lamb -chop in), rub a little oil over the paper, then season the chop with a -teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, one of chopped parsley, a little -pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, wrap the chop in the paper, which plait -down at the edges, lay it upon a gridiron over a slow fire, turning it -frequently; it will take about twenty minutes to broil properly, when -done serve in the paper very hot. - - -448. _Lamb Chop saute._--Put a piece of butter into a clean saute- or -frying-pan, and when melted lay in a chop rather highly seasoned with -pepper and salt; fry it until thoroughly done and but lightly browned, -and serve. Should gravy be required, pour off the greater part of the -fat, and then stir in half a tablespoonful of flour, add a gill of broth -or water, and a little coloring; stir with a wooden spoon, boiling five -minutes, finish with an ounce of fresh butter and the juice of half a -lemon; shake the pan over the fire until the sauce becomes rather thick, -when pour over and serve. - - -449. _Pork Cutlets._--Choose a small neck, cut eight cutlets out of it -of the same shape as the mutton, only leaving a little more fat on it, -season, egg and bread-crumb, fry in pan, serve with either sauces -Robert, poiverade, piquante, tartare. - - -450. _Pork Cutlets with Pickle._--Saute, broil or fry, the chops, as in -the preceding; make about a gill of melted butter, add to it two -tablespoonfuls of liquor of piccalilly, and six or eight pieces of the -pickle cut small; when very hot put on your dish, and dress your cutlets -over, or if for a large dish, dress cutlets in a crown, and sauce in the -middle. - - -451. _Pork Cutlets saute._--Cut six or eight good-sized cutlets from the -neck of the same shape as the mutton, lay them in a buttered saute-pan, -season well with pepper and salt, place over the fire; when done lay -them upon a plate, pour some of the fat from the saute-pan, add a good -tablespoonful of chopped onions, pass over the fire a minute, then add a -teaspoonful of flour; moisten with half a pint of broth or water, with a -piece of glaze added, season a little more, add a bay-leaf and a -teaspoonful of vinegar, with one of mustard, mix well, lay in the -cutlets until quite hot, when dress upon a dish, sauce over, and serve. -This sauce is good with any kind of cutlets, but especially pork. - - -452. _Pork Cutlets aux Cornichons._--Cut six or eight cutlets from a -middling-sized neck of pork, season well with pepper and salt, dip in -eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into grated crust of bread (not -too brown) put two ounces of lard or butter into a saute- or frying-pan, -lay in the cutlets and fry very slowly; when done place them upon a -dish; keep hot, pour some of the fat from the pan, add a good -teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth or -water with a piece of glaze, add half a wineglassful of vinegar, a -little salt, pepper, and six gherkins in slices, place the cutlets in -the pan to warm gently in the sauce, then dress them upon a dish, sauce -over, and serve. - - -453. _Pork Cutlets sauce demi-Robert._--Cut eight cutlets from a neck as -before, season well with pepper and salt, sprinkle chopped onions and -parsley over upon both sides, beating the cutlets lightly to make them -adhere, then dip them into eggs well beaten upon a plate, and then into -bread-crumbs; pat them lightly, have some clarified butter in a stewpan, -into which dip the cutlets, and again into bread-crumbs, well covering -them, place them upon a gridiron over a moderate fire, broiling a nice -light brown color; when done dress them upon a dish; have ready the -following sauce: cut two large onions into very small dice, put them -into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, fry of a light yellow color, add -a teaspoonful of flour, mix well, moisten with half a pint of broth and -a spoonful of vinegar, season well, let boil, skim and reduce until -rather thick, when add a spoonful of mixed mustard, a little coloring; -sauce in the centre of the cutlets and serve. - - -454. _Excellent Sausage Cakes._--Chop some lean pork very fine, having -previously detached all the skin and bone, and to every pound of meat -add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a -saltspoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green -chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley; when the whole is well -chopped put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs; -then have ready a pig's caul, which cut into pieces large enough to fold -a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, which wrap up, -keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very gently -over a moderate fire. - - -455. _Pigs' Feet._--Procure six pigs' feet nicely salted, which boil in -water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut -each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some sausage-meat as in -the last, and a pig's caul, which cut into pieces each large enough to -fold half a foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat, when well wrapped -up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when -the pig's feet are well boiled, egg over, and throw them into some -grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley, broil -a nice color and serve with a little plain gravy. This is called a la -Ste. Menehould. - - -456. _Pig's Kidneys._--Cut them open lengthwise, season well with pepper -and salt, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into bread-crumbs, with which -you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot, run a skewer through -to keep them open, and broil for about a quarter of an hour over a good -fire; when done place them upon a dish, have ready an ounce of butter, -with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a little pepper and -salt, and a teaspoonful of French or common mustard, place a piece upon -each of the kidneys, place in the oven for one minute, and serve. Pig's -kidneys may also be sauted as directed for ox kidneys. - - -457. _Hashed Pork._--Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan -with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and a -bay-leaf, reduce to half, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add half a -pint of broth or water, cut some pork previously cooked into thin small -slices, season well upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good -teaspoonful of flour over, mix all together, and put into the stewpan; -let simmer gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with -slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added if approved of, -or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent. - -The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if required hot -may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a buttered saute- or -frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely fried in the butter, and -served with a puree of winter peas, made by boiling half a pint of peas -until tender (tied up in a cloth); when done put them into a stewpan -with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and salt, add a gill of -milk or cream, pour into the dish, and dress the pork over. - -It may also be cut into thin slices and put into a soup plate, and pour -some catsup or Harvey sauce over it, and let it remain for half an hour; -butter the inside of a pudding basin, and lay some of the remains of -peas pudding round it, and then place in the pork, cover it with some of -the pudding, place it in a saucepan with a little water to get hot for -about half an hour, and then turn it out and serve. Should you not have -quite pork enough, you may make it up with a little sausage-meat, or any -other kind of meat. - - -458. _Fritadella (twenty receipts in one)._--Put half a pound of crumb -of bread to soak in a pint of cold water, take the same quantity of any -kind of roast or boiled meat, with a little fat, chop it up like sausage -meat, then put your bread in a clean cloth, press it to extract all the -water, put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of -chopped onions, fry for two minutes, then add the bread, stir with a -wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a -teaspoonful of salt, half the same of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, -the same of lemon peel, stir continually until very hot; then add two -eggs, one at a time, well mix together, and pour on a dish to get cold. -Then take a piece as big as a small egg, and roll it to the same shape, -flatten it a little, egg and bread-crumb over, keeping the shape, do all -of it the same way, then put into a saute-pan a quarter of a pound of -lard, or clean fat, or oil; when hot, but not too much so, put in the -pieces, and saute a very nice yellow color, and serve very hot, plain, -on a napkin, or on a border of mashed potatoes, with any sauce or -garniture you fancy. These can be made with the remains of any kind of -meat, poultry, game, fish, and even vegetables; hard eggs or cold mashed -potatoes may be introduced in small quantities, and may be fried instead -of sauted, in which case put about two pounds of fat in the frying-pan, -and if care is used it will do several times. This is an entirely new -and very economical and palatable dish, and fit for all seasons, and if -once tried would be often repeated; the only expense attending it is the -purchase of a small wire sieve for the bread-crumbs. The reason I call -it twenty receipts in one is, that all kinds of food may be used for it, -even shrimps, oysters, and lobsters. - - -459. _Ramifolle._--These are a little more expensive than the -fritadella, and worthy the table of a crowned head. The flesh of fowls -instead of lamb or veal, with the addition of one or two fat livers cut -in dice. Proceed as in the former receipt, using the crumb of French -rolls, and one or two truffles chopped fine: then make some pancake -batter, and saute two pancakes about one eighth of an inch thick, cover -one with the meat, &c., and lay the other over, and put by until cold; -when so cut them to any shape you like, but if like cutlets add the -small bone of fowl or pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of parsley, egg -and bread-crumb them, and saute them in oil or lard of a nice yellow -color, and dish them like cutlets, with any of the sauces or garnitures -described for mutton cutlets; or if plain, with fried parsley. They may -be made of any kind of meat, fish, or poultry. I have latterly had them -sent up to table when we have had a few friends, and they have been very -much liked; and, on inquiring the name, I baptized them Ramifolle, -without any particular meaning, which name having pleased as much as the -dish, therefore let them be called Ramifolles. - -They may be made a plainer way with various meats or liver, and spread -over one pancake, which roll over, and when cold cut it into three equal -lengths, egg, bread-crumb, and saute as above. - - -460. _Prussian Cutlets._--Take a piece of veal, say one pound, from any -part of the calf, as long as you extract the nerve, with a little fat, -chop it up, but not too fine, add to it two teaspoonfuls of chopped -eschalot, one of salt, half a one of pepper, little grated nutmeg, chop -it a little more, and make it into pieces of the size of two walnuts, -which give the shape of a cutlet; egg and bread-crumb each, keeping the -shape; insert a small bone at the small end, saute in fat, oil, lard, or -butter, give it ten minutes on a slow fire till a nice brown color, dish -and serve, with demi-glaze sauce, in which you have put a spoonful of -Harvey's, and serve with any brown or white sauce or stewed vegetables -you like. Any kind of meat may be used. - - - 461. _Cutlets a la Victime, or Victimized Cutlets._--Here, _ma - belle amie_, is a terrific title for a receipt but do not fear it, - as the time of the Inquisition is past, and you are not likely to - become one in partaking of it. I do not recommend it to you on the - score of economy, as it is the tip-top of extravagance; but forward - it as a curiosity, and also in case similar circumstances should - happen which caused its invention, which, you must know, was done - by a culinary artist of Louis XVIII. of France, at the palace of - the Tuileries, and first partaken of by this intellectual monarch - and gourmet, who, at the end of his stormy reign, through a serious - illness, was completely paralyzed, and, at the same time, the - functionary organs of digestion were much out of order; being also - a man of great corpulence, and a great admirer of the festive - board, much food was required to satisfy his royal appetite; and - the difficulty which his physicians experienced was to supply his - want of food in the smallest compass. The head-cook, on being - consulted, begged a few hours' reflection before he could give an - answer to so important a question, as nothing but mutton entirely - deprived of fat was to compose his Majesty's meal. After profound - study by the chief and his satellites, a voice was heard from the - larder, which was a considerable distance from the kitchen, crying, - "I have found it, I have found it." It was a young man of the name - of Alphonse Pottier, who, in saying so, made his appearance in the - kitchen with three beautiful mutton cutlets, tastefully trimmed and - tied together; he then, with a small skewer, fastened them to a - spit, and placed them, to the astonishment of all present, close to - the bars of the grate: two of the cutlets soon got brown (observe, - not a word was to be said until the trial was made), from brown - they soon turned black: every one gazed at each other in - astonishment whilst Pottier, with quite a composed countenance, - terminated his scientific experiment, took them off the spit, drew - the skewer out, cut the string, threw the two burnt cutlets away, - and merely served the middle one, which seems to have received all - the nutriment of the other two; it was served and greatly approved - of by the physicians, as well as by the gourmet potentate, who in - consequence of two being sacrificed for one, named it 'Cutlet a la - Victime,' and often afterwards used to partake of them when in the - enjoyment of health. - -Cut three cutlets from the neck of mutton, about half an inch thick, -trim one very nicely, free from fat, leave the other two as cut off, put -the trimmed one between the two, flatten them together, so that the fat -of the outside ones meet over the middle one; tie them together thus, -and broil over a very strong fire for ten minutes; remove it from the -fire, cut the string, and dish up the middle one only on a very hot -dish, with a little salt sprinkled over it. If wanted roasted, proceed -as above. - - -462. _Roast and Braised Chicken, for Entrees._--Have a chicken trussed -for boiling; put it on a spit, envelop it as for turkey (No. 358), roast -half the time or little less, depending on the fire and the size of the -chicken; when done, remove it from the spit, and take off the envelope, -and serve with any of the following garniture:--jardiniere, green peas, -oysters, cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, white mushroom sauce, ragout -of quenelles, juice of tarragon (No. 363), Dutch sauce, with a few heads -of cauliflower well boiled, and cut small. - - -463. _Braised Chicken._--If not convenient to roast, put a little bacon -in a stewpan, then a chicken, a large onion, half a carrot, half a head -of celery, two bay-leaves, two cloves, one peppercorn, one and a half -tablespoonfuls of salt, a little pepper, a bouquet garni, and a quart of -water, let simmer till tender; dish up, after having well drained it, -take the string off, pour any of the above sauces over or under them; -when the chicken is done, you can make, with the addition of a little -more water, a very good puree, and even sauces, and by adding some -trimmings of beef, veal, lamb, or mutton, it will make a first-rate -clear broth, after being clarified giving it a proper color. - - -464. _Chicken plain boiled._--Put two quarts of water into a stewpan, on -the fire, or two ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of salt and a few -vegetables; when boiling, rub the breast of the chicken with half a -lemon, and put it in to simmer from a quarter of an hour to twenty -minutes; if a large fowl, increase the quantity of water, and boil -longer; sauce over with parsley and butter, or celery sauce, or any of -the above: use the broth. - -The remains of any of the above, or of turkey, capon, guinea-fowl, or -other poultry, may be dressed as hash, by cutting them into neat pieces; -put them into a stewpan, put to it half a tablespoonful of salt, one of -flour, half a one of chopped onions, ditto of parsley, a bay-leaf, half -a pint of water, a few drops of coloring; set to simmer for twenty -minutes, and serve; the addition of a few mushrooms is excellent. - - -465. _Poultry en Capilotade._--Put with the pieces of fowl a -tablespoonful of oil, and one glass of sherry, into a pan, and proceed -as above; when ready to serve, chop a few gherkins, and put in. - - -466. _Indian Hash Fowl._--Make a pint of sauce (p. 70), warm, put into -it your pieces of fowl, and serve with rice plain-boiled. - - -467. _Fried Fowl._--When you have cut the pieces as before, put them -into a basin with a little salt, pepper, a spoonful of oil, and two of -vinegar, and a little chopped eschalot, stir them well in it, and let -remain for half an hour, have ready a quantity of batter, and take a -fork and dip each piece one after the other into it, and then let it -drop into the frying-pan, in which is sufficient hot fat to cover them; -fry a nice color, and serve in a pyramid, with fried parsley over, or -any sauce you like under. - - -468. _Blanquette of Fowl._--Put half a pint of white sauce in a stewpan, -with six tablespoonfuls of broth or milk, let it boil, having cut up -about a pound of the remains of any kind of poultry, put it in the -sauce, warm it, and add two spoonfuls of liaison to it; season with a -little salt, pepper, the juice of half a lemon, stir it, and serve. Do -not let it boil, or it will curdle, and be unsightly and unpalatable; a -little cooked ham or tongue are good in it, also oysters, and served -with bread sippets round. A little chopped parsley sprinkled over it -makes it look very inviting. - - -469. _Minced Fowl._--Cut the remains into small dice, with a little ham -or tongue, add thick white sauce, season mildly; it can be served with -poached eggs over. - - -470. _Saute of Fowl._--See the article Saute, which is applicable to all -kinds of poultry; if the fowl be old, it should be previously stewed. - - -471. _Broiled Fowl, with Sauce._--Have a fowl ready plucked and drawn, -open the back from one end to the other with a sharp knife, having -previously cut the feet off at the second joint, make an incision in the -skin, and pass the bone through to fix it internally; lay the fowl on -the table, breast down, beat it as flat as possible with a chopper, take -out the breast-bone, and also the rough part of the interior of the -back, especially if a large or old fowl; after you have it in a nice -shape, season all over with a teaspoonful of salt and half one of -pepper, put it on a gridiron, over a slow fire, turning it every five -minutes until done; if a young one, twenty-five minutes ought to do it -well; but by trying with the finger on the thick part, it will easily be -known by even an inexperienced hand, if firm under the finger, it is -done, or by pressing the wing, and if tender, it is also done; put on -dish, and pour over a brown mushroom sauce, or the following: put two -spoonfuls of Chili vinegar, two of Harvey's sauce, two of catsup, one of -chopped eschalot, ten of plain melted butter, put in a stewpan and boil -for twenty minutes; skim and serve under or over. - - -472. _Another way._--When the fowl is ready for broiling, put four -tablespoonfuls of oil or fat, or one ounce of butter, into a saute-pan, -lay in the fowl, and saute it gently until a nice yellow color, and then -broil as above; or egg and bread-crumb it over, melting a little butter, -and drop a little now and then when on the fire, and with care it will -be gold color; serve with either sharp, mushroom, tomato, or poivrade -sauce on. - - -473. _A la Tartare._--By making about half a pint of the above sauce, -and ornament an oval dish by placing on the border cut gherkins, -beet-root, olives, place the sauce on it, and lay the fowl very hot over -it; thus the fowl is hot and the sauce cold, but together very good. - - -474. _Croquettes of Fowl._--Take the lean of the remains of a fowl from -a previous dinner, and chop it up in small pieces, then put into a -stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots with half an ounce of butter, -pass them for about three minutes over the fire, add a teaspoonful of -flour, mix well, then add the fowl, and a gill of white sauce, or more -if not sufficiently moist; season with pepper, salt, and sugar; then -stir in the yolks of two eggs very quickly, stir it a little longer on -the fire, and turn it out on a dish to cool; when cold, take twelve -pieces, each of the size of a walnut, roll them out an inch and a half -in length, and bread-crumb thrice over; fry a good color, dress them on -a napkin, or a border of mashed potatoes. Every kind of remains of game, -meat, poultry, and fish, may be made the same way: if no sauce, add a -little more flour, and use milk or broth. - - -475. _Fricassee of Fowl._--Divide a fowl into eight pieces, wash it -well, put the pieces into a stewpan, and cover with boiling water, -season with a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, a good bouquet of -parsley, four cloves, and a blade of mace, let it boil twenty minutes, -pass the stock through a sieve into a basin; take out the pieces of -fowl, trim nicely, then put into another stewpan two ounces of butter, -with which mix a good spoonful of flour, moisten with stock, put in the -pieces of fowl, stir occasionally until boiling, skim well, add twenty -button onions, let simmer until the onions are tender, when add a gill -of cream, with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs, stir in -quickly over the fire, but do not let it boil; take out the pieces, -dress in pyramid upon the dish, and serve. - -If you require to warm up the remainder of the above, put it into a -basin, which stand in a stewpan in which you have placed a little water, -put the cover over, and let it boil gently, by which means the contents -of the basin will get warm without turning the sauce; when hot, dish up -and serve. The same plan ought to be adopted to warm up any remains of -dishes in which a liaison has been introduced; it prevents its turning, -which is unavoidable in any other way. - - -476. _Fowl Saute._--Pluck and draw a fowl, cut it into pieces, seven or -eight, as you like, that is, the two French wings, the two legs, the -breast in one or two pieces, and the back in two; trim nicely, put into -a saute-pan two ounces of butter, put it on the fire; when hot, lay in -your pieces, add a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, saute -gently, turn over; when of a nice gold color and tender, pour the fat of -the pan, add a glass of sherry and ten spoonfuls of brown sauce, boil -ten minutes longer but very slowly, and serve in pyramid; sauce over. -This done in oil, with the addition of twenty mushrooms and a little -garlic, is the celebrated dish of _poulet a la Marengo_. - - -477. _The Same, a plainer way._--When prepared and cooked as above, -instead of the sauce, which may not be handy, add a spoonful of flour, -which dredge over till it is well mixed, then add half a pint of boiling -water, a few drops of coloring or some mushroom-catsup, two teaspoonfuls -of salt and a half of pepper, add a bouquet of parsley, let it simmer -for twenty minutes, skim, taste if your sauce is well seasoned, dish -your fowl, reduce your sauce until adhering to the back of the spoon, -add the juice of half a lemon, and serve. A few mushrooms or English -truffles may be added to it, which is a great improvement; the color of -the sauce ought to be brownish; take out the bouquet which you have -previously squeezed. - - -478. _Saute of Fowl with Vegetables._--Proceed exactly as above, only -omitting the wine, add to the sauce fifty heads of young green -scallions, or some small pieces of carrot and turnip, or a pint of green -peas, or cucumbers cut in nice pieces, stew till tender, add a spoonful -of powdered sugar, dish the fowl, skim the sauce, take out the parsley; -when your sauce is thickish and of a nice color, pour over the fowl, and -serve very hot. - - -479. _Blanquettes of Turkey._--Cut off the flesh from the remainder of a -roast or boiled turkey into as large slices as possible, then break up -the bones, which put into a stewpan, with a little lean bacon and an -onion, and a small bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, just cover -them with water, and boil gently for three quarters of an hour, skim, -and pass the stock through a cloth, and with it make a little white -sauce as directed, then put the meat into another stewpan, lightly -seasoned with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; just cover it -with some of the sauce, and warm it gradually, not, however, permitting -it to boil; when very hot, stir in three tablespoonfuls of cream, with -which you have mixed the yolk of an egg, and when beginning to thicken, -dress it upon a dish with toasted or fried sippets of bread around, -cucumbers cut and dressed as directed p. 67, and added to the blanquette -are a very great improvement, as are likewise button mushrooms or a few -slices of cooked ham or tongue. - -For a blanquette of fowl proceed precisely the same. - - -480. _Boudins of Fowl or Turkey._--Cut up the remains of a turkey or -fowls into very small dice, with a quarter of a pound of lean cooked ham -to each pound of meat, make a stock with the bones as directed in the -last; put a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots into a stewpan, with a -piece of butter of the size of a walnut, which stir over the fire until -the eschalots become a little yellowish, when stir in a good -tablespoonful of flour, add the meat and about a pint of the stock, let -boil gently a few minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, -stir the yolks of two eggs in quickly, and pour it out upon a dish until -cold, when divide it into pieces of the size of eggs, which rub into -long pieces of the shape and size of flat sausages, which egg and -bread-crumb twice over, and fry of a nice brown color in hot fat or -dripping, drain upon a cloth, and serve very hot. - - -481. _Turban of Croquettes a l'Epigramme._--Croquettes are made from the -same preparation as the last, but made up into small pieces, two inches -in length and the thickness of your finger; egg, bread-crumb, and fry -the same, dress in a circle upon a border of mashed potatoes, and serve -with some blanquette of turkey or fowl in the centre. - - -482. _Hashed Goose._--Put a spoonful of chopped onions into a stewpan -with an ounce of butter, which fry over the fire until becoming rather -browned, then stir a tablespoonful of flour, put in the remains of a -goose, cut into neat pieces, and well seasoned with pepper and salt; add -a pint of stock, let the whole simmer about ten minutes, and it is ready -to serve. A little apple sauce may be served separately in a boat, or a -couple of apples sliced, a few leaves of bruised dried sage may be -stewed with the hash. - - -483. _Stewed Duck with Peas._--Truss a duck with the legs turned inside, -which put into a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a -pound of streaked bacon, cut into small dice, set the stewpan over a -moderate fire, occasionally stirring its contents until it becomes -lightly browned, then add a good teaspoonful of flour, and when well -mixed, a pint of stock or water, stir occasionally until boiling, when -add twenty button onions and a bunch of parsley with a bay-leaf; let the -whole simmer a quarter of an hour, keeping it well skimmed, then add a -quart of young peas, and simmer half an hour longer, or until the peas -are quite tender, when take out the duck, draw out the string, and dress -it upon your dish; remove the parsley and bay-leaf, season the peas and -sauce with a little pepper, salt, and sugar, pour over the duck and -serve. - - -484. _Stewed Duck with Turnips._--Proceed as in the last, but, instead -of peas, use about forty pieces of good turnips, cut into -moderately-sized squares, and previously fried, of a yellowish color, in -a little lard or butter, dress the duck upon your dish, season the -turnips and sauce with a little salt, pepper and sugar, and reduce it -until thickish, not however to break the turnips; sauce over, and serve. - -The remains of ducks left from a previous dinner may be hashed as -directed for goose, but the sage and apple should in all cases be -omitted; for variety, should peas be in season, a pint freshly boiled -may be mixed with the hash at the time of serving. - - -485. _Fowl Saute in Oil._--Cut a fowl into eight pieces, that is, the -two wings, two legs, two pieces of the breast, and two of the back, -which put into a stewpan, with three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, over a -moderate fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally, until the pieces -of fowl are rather browned, when mix in a tablespoonful of flour, which -moisten with a pint of stock or water, let it simmer at the corner of -the fire twenty minutes, skimming off the oil as it rises to the -surface; add a few blanched mushrooms in slices, season with a little -salt, pepper, sugar, and a piece of scraped garlic the size of a pea; -take out the fowl, which pile upon your dish, laying the worst pieces at -the bottom; reduce the sauce over the fire, keeping it stirred until -sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon, when pour over -the fowl and serve. Use brown sauce, if handy. - - -486. _Fricassee of Rabbit._--Cut a nice young rabbit into neat joints, -and put them into lukewarm water to disgorge for half an hour, when -drain and put them into a stewpan, with a large onion cut into slices, -two cloves, a blade of mace, a little parsley, one bay-leaf, and a -quarter of a pound of streaky bacon cut into small dice; cover the whole -with water, and let it simmer twenty minutes, keeping it well skimmed; -then pass the stock through a sieve into a basin, take out the pieces of -rabbit with the bacon, then in another stewpan have two ounces of -butter, with which mix a good tablespoonful of flour, moisten with the -stock, and stir over the fire until boiling; then trim neatly the pieces -of rabbit, which, with the bacon and twenty button onions, put into the -sauce; let the whole simmer until the onions are tender, skimming off -all the fat as it rises to the surface; then pour in a gill of cream, -with which you have mixed the yolks of two eggs, leave it a moment upon -the fire to thicken (but not to boil), take out the rabbit, which pile -upon your dish, sauce over and serve. - - -487. _Gibelotte of Rabbit._--Cut up a young rabbit into neat joints, as -likewise a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon in small dice, put the -bacon into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, and when a little -fried, put in the pieces of rabbit, which saute of a light brown color, -moving them round occasionally with a wooden spoon; then add a good -tablespoonful of flour, working it well in, moisten with a pint of -water, season with a little pepper and salt, and when beginning to -simmer, skim off all the fat, and add thirty button onions, a few -blanched mushrooms, and a little brown gravy or coloring; let simmer a -quarter of an hour longer, when take out the rabbit, which dress upon -your dish; reduce the sauce until it adheres to the back of the spoon, -when pour it over the rabbit and serve. - - -488. _Compote of Pigeons._--Put a quarter of a pound of lean bacon cut -into small dice into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, and fry a -few seconds over the fire, then have three pigeons trussed, with their -legs turned inside, which place in the stewpan breast downwards, setting -them over the fire until of a light brown color, moving them round -occasionally; add a tablespoonful of flour, which work well in with a -wooden spoon, until becoming browned, when moisten with a pint of water, -add a good bunch of parsley, with a bay-leaf, and about thirty button -onions, season with a little pepper and salt, let the whole simmer three -quarters of an hour, keeping it well skimmed, then dress the pigeons -upon a dish with the bacon and onions round, reduce the sauce to a -proper consistency, take out the parsley and bay-leaf, sauce over and -serve. - - -489. _Stewed Pigeon with Peas._--Cook the pigeons precisely as described -in the last, but omitting the onions and bay-leaf, and adding a quart of -fresh green peas; when done, dress the pigeons in a dish, pour the sauce -and peas over and serve. - - -490. _Hot Lamb Pie (raised)._--To make this an oval, a tin or copper pie -mould would be required, which you would choose of a size most generally -useful. Butter the interior of the mould, which stand upon a -baking-sheet, then make the following paste: put a quarter of a pound of -butter and the same of chopped suet into a stewpan, with half a pint of -water, and let the whole boil together one minute, when strain it -through a sieve into a basin containing two pounds of flour, mixing it -first with a spoon, and when cool enough with the hand, until forming a -smooth paste; when partly cold roll it out into a sheet half an inch in -thickness, with which line the mould, pressing the paste evenly at all -parts; have ready cut sufficient small lamb chops from the loin, neatly -cut away the bones, and lay them round the interior of the pie -alternately with slices of raw potatoes (a quarter of an inch in -thickness), season rather highly as you proceed, with pepper, salt, -chopped onions, and parsley; make a neat cover with the trimmings of the -paste, and bake it rather better than two hours in a moderate oven; when -done lift the cover, pour out as much of the fat as possible, add a -little gravy and serve. - -491. _Other various Pies._--Hot raised pies may also be made with mutton -by following the above directions. They are also very good made with -fillet of beef cut into thin slices of the size of the lamb chops, or of -rump steak, by laying a piece at the bottom, seasoning and filling -alternately with potatoes and the meat; veal and ham pies are also -excellent, but the potatoes in them had better be omitted, the veal -however, seasoned and dipped in flour. Pies may also be made with veal -sweetbreads and ham, but then about three parts of a pint of white -sauce should be poured in after the pie is baked. Fowls or rabbits may -likewise be cut into joints, and put into a stewpan, with a piece of -butter, previously well seasoning them with pepper, salt, and chopped -eschalots; cover the stewpan close, and leave it twenty minutes over a -slow fire, when add a pint of white sauce, and simmer ten minutes -longer, when cold build them up in the interior of the pie, which cover -and bake an hour in a warm oven. Pies of the above description can of -course be made of any size, either large enough for a family meal, or -very small and round, for a corner dish for a dinner party; most people -who are in the habit of making them, keep two different-sized moulds for -the purpose. - - -492. _Rump Steak Pie._--Procure two pounds of rumpsteaks, which cut into -thinnish slices, and season well with pepper and salt, dip each piece -into flour, and lay them in a small pie-dish, finishing the top in the -form of a dome; add a wineglassful of water, then have ready half a -pound of half-puff paste, cut off a small piece, which roll into a band, -and lay round the edge of the dish, having previously wetted it with a -paste-brush, dipped in water, then roll out the remainder of the paste -to about the size of the dish, damp the band of paste upon the dish, and -lay the other piece over, make a hole with a knife at the top, press the -edges evenly down with your thumbs, trim the pie round with a knife, egg -over the top with a paste-brush, and ornament it with the trimmings of -the paste, according to fancy: bake it rather better than an hour in a -moderate oven, and serve either hot or cold. - - -493. _Veal and Ham Pie._--Cut about a pound and a half of veal into thin -slices, as also a quarter of a pound of cooked ham; season the veal -rather highly with white pepper and salt, with which cover the bottom of -the dish, then lay over a few slices of ham, then the remainder of the -veal, finishing with the remainder of the ham, add a wineglassful of -water, and cover and bake as directed for the beefsteak pie: a bay will -be an improvement. - - -494. _Mutton pie._--Procure the chumps of three loins of mutton, from -which cut the meat in moderately thin slices, put a layer at the bottom -of the dish, which season well with chopped parsley, eschalots, pepper, -and salt; then put a layer of slices of raw potatoes, and again a layer -of mutton, seasoning as before, proceeding thus to the top, which form -in a dome, finishing with mutton, cover with paste, and bake as directed -for rumpsteak pie. - - -495. _Another method._--Cut six chops from a loin of mutton, from which -trim as much of the fat as possible: season them well with salt and -pepper, and lay them round in your pie-dish, the thick part uppermost, -put two onions, in slices, in the centre, over which lay four -middling-sized potatoes, each cut in halves, pour in a wineglassful of -water, cover with paste, and bake as the last. - - -496. _Lamb Pie._--Cut a small neck of lamb into chops, which must not be -too fat, season them lightly with pepper and salt, and lay them in your -pie-dish, with a few new potatoes in slices, pour in a little water, -then cover and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie. - - -497. _Chicken Pie._--Cut up a nice plump chicken into joints, which lay -upon a dish, and season lightly with chopped parsley, white pepper, and -salt, then lay the back, cut into three pieces, at the bottom of a -pie-dish, with the two legs on either side; have half a pound of cooked -ham or bacon in slices, a layer of which cover over, then lay in the two -wings, and over them the breast, cut into two pieces, which, with the -remainder of the ham or bacon, form into a dome in the middle, pour half -a pint of white sauce over, if handy, or a little broth or water, cover -with paste, and bake as directed for the last. If no white sauce, dip -each piece lightly in flour. - - -498. _Rabbit Pie._--Cut a nice rabbit into joints, splitting the head in -halves, and lay them in lukewarm water half an hour, to disgorge, then -dry them upon a cloth, season well with pepper, salt, chopped eschalots, -parsley, two bay-leaves, and a spoonful of flour; have also three -quarters of a pound of uncooked streaked bacon, cut into square pieces -the size of walnuts, build up the pieces of rabbit and bacon together, -in a pie-dish, commencing with the worst pieces, and forming a dome; -pour in a little water, cover with paste, and bake as directed for -rumpsteak pie. - - -499. _Pigeon Pie._--Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a pound of -rumpsteak, cut into slices not too thin, seasoned with a little salt, -pepper, and cayenne, and dipped into flour; have ready picked and drawn -a couple of pigeons, cut off the feet, turn the legs in, fold up the -pinions of the wings, and lay them breast to breast upon the meat, have -the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, which put at the sides, sprinkle a -little pepper and salt over the pigeons, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, -pour in a little water, cover with paste, stick the feet in the top, and -bake as directed for the last. - - -500. _Partridge Pie._--Line the bottom of a pie-dish with slices of -veal, cut moderately thick, and rather lightly seasoned with white -pepper and salt; have ready picked, drawn, and trussed a couple of young -partridges, pour one glass of sherry over the veal, and lay in the -partridges breast to breast, laying a piece of fat bacon over each, -cover with paste, sticking the feet of the partridges in the top of the -pie, and bake as before. - - -501. _Grouse Pie._--Roast, very underdone, a couple of nice plump -grouse; when cold, cut into joints, being the two wings, two legs, and -the breasts into two pieces each, season them lightly, and lay them in a -pie-dish, building them to form a dome, then break up the back-bone and -other trimmings, which put into a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, a -bay-leaf, an onion in slices, a few sprigs of parsley, three or four -whole allspice, set the stewpan over the fire a few minutes until the -wine boils, when add half a pint of brown sauce, and half a pint of -broth, stir it over a fire until again reduced to half a pint, when -strain it through a sieve, over the grouse; when quite cold cover with -paste, as directed for rumpsteak pie, and bake in a warm oven; about -half an hour would be sufficient, as the paste requires to be laid on -thinner, the contents of the pie having been previously cooked. - - Pies may be made from the remains of any poultry or game, in the - same manner as here described; only, if poultry, use white sauce - instead of brown, and omit the wine. If no sauce, roll each piece - in flour, and make only the gravy, which place in it. - - The remains of any joint of meat may likewise be served in a pie, - by cutting the meat in slices, well seasoning, laying them in a - pie-dish, and pouring half a pint of sharp sauce over; or use - broth, or even water highly seasoned. - - -502. _Sea Pie._--Put into a stewpan two pounds of beefsteak, season it -with pepper and salt, a small bit of celery chopped up, or a pinch of -ground celery seed, a pinch of pounded basil, a teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, a small onion cut in slices; put on this six larks trussed for -roasting, then make a piece of paste with suet, about one inch thick, -and round like the stewpan; put half a pint of water or Hock in the -stewpan, and cover the larks with the paste, pressing it against the -sides of the stewpan; simmer for one hour, and serve, by putting a knife -round the sides of the stewpan to detach the paste, and turn it over on -a dish. - - -503. _Eel Pie._--Skin and cleanse three good-sized eels, which cut into -pieces about two inches in length, put a good-sized bunch of parsley, -thyme, and three bay-leaves, all tied together, into a stewpan, with an -onion, into which you have stuck six cloves, a glass of port wine, and a -pint of broth, lay in the pieces of eels, and set them upon the fire to -simmer for ten minutes, when take them out, laying them upon a cloth to -drain, skim off all the fat from the stock the eels were cooked in, to -which add rather more than half a pint of brown sauce, let the whole -boil until reduced to three parts of a pint, when dress the pieces of -eels up in a pie-dish, strain the sauce over through a sieve, and when -cold, cover with paste as directed for rumpsteak pie, and bake about an -hour in a moderate oven, serve it hot. If for a small pie, they may be -used raw, and season accordingly, after having rolled each piece in -flour. - - -504. _Beefsteak Pudding._--Put a pound of flour upon a dresser, with -which mix half a pound of beef suet, very finely chopped, make a hole in -the middle, into which put a teaspoonful of salt, and sufficient water -to form a rather stiffish paste, mix it well together, using a little -more flour to dry it and prevent its sticking; then lightly butter the -interior of a round-bottomed pudding-basin, roll out two thirds of the -paste to half an inch in thickness, with which line the basin; have -ready cut into slices, about the size of the palm of the hand and a -quarter of an inch in thickness, two pounds of rumpsteak, with a little -of the fat included, lay them upon a dish; season with two teaspoonfuls -of salt, and one of black pepper, sprinkle a little flour over, move -them about a little until each piece is well covered with flour and -seasoning; then lay them within the paste, also putting in whatever -seasoning may remain upon the dish, pour a gill of water over, -moistening the edges of the paste; then roll out the remainder of the -paste to form a lid, which place over, pressing it down with the thumb, -then tie the basin in a pudding-cloth, and put it into a saucepan -containing about a gallon of boiling water, and keep continually boiling -for nearly two hours, adding a little more water occasionally, to keep -up the quantity; then take it up, untie the cloth, run a sharp-pointed -knife into the pudding, and if the meat feels tender, it is done (if -not, it will require more boiling), turn it over upon your dish, lift -the basin carefully from it, and serve, without opening the pudding to -add gravy, as many persons do, for a pudding made as above will be full -of gravy when cut at table. - - -505. _Mutton Pudding._--Line a pudding-basin with paste, as directed in -the last; then have ready cut into slices the meat from two loin-chumps -of mutton, which lay upon a dish, and season with a teaspoonful of -chopped onions, the same of chopped parsley, rather more than half that -quantity of black pepper, and salt in proportion; then put a layer of -meat into the pudding, then a layer of raw potatoes cut into slices, -proceeding thus until you have filled it up, but finishing with meat, -cover it up as in the last, likewise tie it in a napkin, and boil, but -rather better than two hours would be sufficient; serve as before -directed. - - -506. _Lamb Pudding._--If convenient, procure the entire ribs of lamb, -sawing off the breast almost close to the lean part of the neck; the -breast may be cooked as directed (No. 334); cut the neck into rather -thin cutlets, which season lightly with white pepper, salt, and a little -chopped parsley and onions: you have previously lined a pudding-basin -with paste as before, fill it with the meat thus prepared, intermixing a -few new potatoes cut in slices, finish the pudding, boil, and serve as -before directed. - - -507. _Veal Pudding._--Cut two pounds of veal from any part of the leg -into slices, about the size of the palm of the hand and a quarter of an -inch in thickness, put two ounces of butter into a frying-pan, and when -melted lay in the veal, and a few slices of streaked bacon, season the -whole with pepper and a little salt, add one bay-leaf, and a few sprigs -of thyme; place the pan over a slow fire, saute the veal gently for a -quarter of an hour; then take it from the fire, and leave it in the pan -until cold, then have a pudding-basin lined with paste as before, lay in -the veal and bacon, pouring the gravy over, cover, and boil as before, -but an hour would be sufficient. - - -508. _Pork Pudding._--Line a pudding-basin with paste as before, and -spread three quarters of a pound of sausage-meat of an equal thickness -over the interior, have a pound and a half of lean pork, from the leg if -possible, cut into square pieces of the size of walnuts, which season -rather highly with pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, and -half that quantity of dried sage; put the meat into the centre of the -pudding, cover over with a quarter of a pound more sausage-meat, over -which put on the cover of paste, tie it in a cloth, and boil two hours -and a half, as directed for beefsteak pudding. - - -509. _Kidney Pudding._--Procure one ox or eight mutton kidneys, which -cut into slices the thickness of half-a-crown piece; lay them upon a -dish, seasoning well with black pepper and salt, and shaking one ounce -of flour over, mix all well together, to absorb the flour and seasoning; -then have a pudding-basin, lined as directed for beefsteak pudding, -finish, boil, and serve as there directed. - -A pudding made with one pound of steak and a beef kidney is also very -excellent, as is likewise a beefsteak pudding with two dozen of oysters -(previously blanched and bearded) added. - - -510. _Rabbit Pudding._--Cut a rabbit up in joints (splitting the head in -halves), and lay them in a basin of lukewarm water an hour, to disgorge; -line a pudding-basin with paste as directed for rumpsteak pudding, dry -the pieces of rabbit upon a cloth, and lay them in the pudding with half -a pound of streaked bacon, cut into square pieces, and seasoning rather -highly with chopped eschalots, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; cover, -tie it in a cloth, boil it two hours, and serve as before directed. - - -511. _Suet Pudding._--Put a pound of sifted flour in a basin, with half -a pound of beef suet finely chopped, add two eggs, with a pinch of salt, -and a quarter of a pint of water, beat well together with a wooden -spoon, making a rather thick batter, flour a pudding-cloth, which lay in -a small, round-bottomed basin, pour in the mixture, tie the cloth -tightly, and put the pudding in to boil, with a joint of salt beef, if -you have one, to serve the pudding with, or if not, in boiling water; an -hour and a quarter would be sufficient to cook it; when done, untie the -cloth, turn the pudding over upon your dish, and serve very hot. - - -512. _Yorkshire Pudding._--Put six tablespoonfuls of flour into a basin, -with six eggs, a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a pint of milk, mix -well together with a wooden spoon, adding the remaining three quarters -of a pint of milk by degrees; you have previously set a shallow tin dish -under a piece of roasting beef before the fire; an hour before serving -pour in the batter, leaving it under the meat until quite set and rather -browned upon the top, when turn the pudding over upon the dish you -intend serving it upon, and again place it before the fire until the -other side is browned, when it is ready to serve with the meat. - -This pudding is also very excellent baked under a small piece of beef of -about five or six pounds. It is also frequently baked beneath a shoulder -of mutton; also baked in an oven separate (with a few spoonfuls of gravy -added), if the fire is not large enough. - - -513. _Toad in a Hole._--Make a batter as directed for the Yorkshire -pudding, but with the addition of a spoonful more flour and six ounces -of chopped beef suet; butter a rather deep baking-dish, into which pour -the batter, lay a solid piece of lean gravy beef, about three pounds, in -the centre, and bake it an hour and a half in a hot oven. - -Another method is to cut up about three pounds of rump-steaks into about -six pieces, and putting them in the batter at various distances apart, -but the former method is most common. - -Any remains of cooked beef, veal, mutton, pork, roasted or boiled, salt -or fresh, or game and fowl, cut in pieces, and seasoned to taste, may be -used in this dish, by adding it to the batter when in the dish. - - -514. _Pease Pudding._--Tie a pint of split peas in a cloth, leaving them -room to swell, but not more; put them into a stewpan of cold water, -where let them boil nearly half an hour until tender, but not at all -watery (which they would not be if allowed only sufficient room to -swell, and no more); then turn them out of the cloth, rub them through a -hair sieve into a basin, after which add a quarter of a pound of butter, -season with a little white pepper and salt, and mix all well together, -with three yolks and one whole egg; lightly flour a pudding-cloth, which -lay in a small round-bottomed basin, pour in the mixture, tie up the -cloth, and put the pudding to boil for an hour in a saucepan of boiling -water; when done, turn it from the cloth upon a dish, and serve with any -joint of boiled pork. - - -515. _Fowl Pillau._--Put one pound of the best Patna rice into a -frying-pan with two ounces of butter, which keep moving over a slow -fire, until the rice is lightly browned; then have ready a fowl trussed -as for boiling, which put into a stewpan, with five pints of good broth, -pound in a mortar about forty cardamom seeds with the husks, half an -ounce of coriander seeds, and sufficient cloves, allspice, mace, -cinnamon, and peppercorns, to make two ounces in the aggregate, which -tie up tightly in a cloth, and put into the stewpan with the fowl, let -it boil slowly until the fowl is nearly done; then add the rice, which -let stew until quite tender and almost dry; have ready four onions, -which cut into slices the thickness of half-crown pieces, sprinkle over -with flour, and fry, without breaking them, of a nice brown color, have -also six thin slices of bacon, curled and grilled, and two eggs boiled -hard; then lay the fowl upon your dish, which cover over with the rice, -forming a pyramid, garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and the -hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and serve very hot. - -The bag of spice must be preserved, as it will answer the same purpose -half a dozen times. - -Fowl pillaus are frequently served with two ounces of Malaga raisins, -which are added at the same time and stewed with the rice. - - -516. _Mutton Pillau._--Trim a neck of mutton, by sawing off the tips of -the ribs and taking away the chine-bone; then lay it in a stewpan, with -a bag of spice as in the last, and cover with three quarts of stock, let -it simmer very gently two hours; then take out the mutton, which keep -hot upon a dish, skim off all the fat from the stock it was boiled in, -to which add a pound of Patna rice, which stew until tender and very -dry: then lay it over the mutton, garnish with fried onions, and -hard-boiled eggs, as in the last, and serve very hot. - - -517. _Chicken Curry._--Cut up a chicken into ten pieces, that is, two -wings, two pieces of the breast, two of the back, and each leg divided -into two pieces at the joints; then cut up a middling-sized onion into -very small dice, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and a -very small piece of garlic, stir them over the fire until sauted well; -then add two teaspoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste, which -well mix in; then add half a pint of good broth, let it boil up; then -lay in the pieces of chicken, cover it over, and put to stew very gently -for half an hour, stirring it round occasionally, if getting too dry add -a little more broth (or water); when done, the flesh should part easily -from the bones, and the sauce should adhere rather thickly; season with -the juice of half a lemon and a pinch of salt, and serve, with plain -boiled rice, upon a separate dish. - -Ducklings can be cooked in the same way. - - -518. _Chicken Curry with Paste._--Cut a chicken up as described in the -last, which put into a stewpan, with two ounces of clarified butter, put -it over the fire, stirring occasionally until the pieces of the chicken -are lightly browned; then pour off the butter and fat from the chicken, -add three teaspoonfuls of curry paste and a pint of good broth, mix all -well together, place the stewpan again upon the fire, stewing its -contents slowly for about twenty minutes, when serve, as directed in the -last. - - -519. _Rabbit Curry._--Cut up a rabbit into smallish pieces, splitting -the head in halves, cut up two large onions and one apple into very -small dice, which fry in a stewpan with two ounces of butter; when -nicely browned, add a good tablespoonful of curry powder, a teaspoonful -of curry paste, half one of flour, and a pint of stock, mix well -together, then put in the rabbit, with half a pound of streaked bacon, -cut into square pieces the size of filberts, let the whole stew very -gently upon a very slow fire (or put the stewpan closely covered down -into a warm oven) three quarters of an hour; when done, which you may -ascertain by trying with the point of a knife if the flesh will leave -the bone easily, pour off as much of the fat as possible, and turn it -out upon your dish; serve with rice separately. - -The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick to envelop each piece of -the rabbit. - - -520. _Veal Curry._--Cut up about two pounds of lean veal into small -square pieces, half the size of walnuts, then put a large onion cut into -small dice in a stewpan, with a clove of garlic and one apple cut into -slices, and one ounce of butter; keep them stirred over a moderate fire -until lightly browned, when stir in a good tablespoonful of mild curry -powder, half one of flour, mix well, then add a pint of water, let it -just boil up, put in the veal, which stir round two or three times, to -mix with the curry, and put the stewpan over a slow fire, or in a warm -oven for an hour and a half; when done (which you may ascertain by -pressing a piece between the finger and thumb, if done it would be quite -tender and separate), add the juice of a lemon and a little salt, stir -the whole round three or four times very gently, to mix, and turn it -out upon your dish, serve with rice separately. - -Should you require a veal curry made in less time, the better plan would -be to saute the veal in butter previously, then putting it with its own -gravy to the curry, and boiling the whole gently a quarter of an hour. - -To make a veal curry with curry paste, saute the veal in butter; when -becoming slightly browned, add a good tablespoonful of the paste, with -half a pint of water, leave it to stew about half an hour, when it will -be ready to serve. - -Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork curries are made precisely the same as -directed for veal curries. - - -521. _Breast of Veal Curry._--Procure a piece of breast of veal about -three pounds in weight, with the bones and tendons attached, which chop -into about twenty square pieces, and put into a stewpan, with two quarts -of water, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; let it simmer -three hours at the corner of the fire, skimming off all the fat, then -take out the meat and strain the broth into a basin; in another stewpan -have a middling-sized onion (cut into small dice), with an ounce of -butter, saute them rather brown, then add a good tablespoonful of curry -powder, mix well, and pour in the broth, then add the meat, which let -stew in the curry one hour longer, until the meat is very tender, and -the sauce becomes rather thick; pour off as much fat as possible, season -with a little salt and the juice of a lemon, which stir in very gently, -take the meat out as whole as possible, dress them upon your dish, pour -the sauce over and serve; rice separately. - - -522. _Breast of Mutton Curry._--Cut up a breast of mutton, bones and -all, into pieces about two inches in length and one in width, which put -into a stewpan with two quarts of water, to simmer for about two hours, -when proceed precisely as directed in the last. - - -523. _Breast of Lamb Curry_ is made very similar to the preceding, and -is considered a great treat to those who are fond of curries. Curry -paste may be used to advantage, either by itself, or mixed equally with -the powder. There being a great quantity of fat in the breast, great -care should be taken to remove it from the curry every available -opportunity. - - -524. _Lamb's Head Curry._--Procure a lamb's head, which split in halves, -break the bones at the nostrils, and put into lukewarm water an hour to -disgorge, previously taking out the brains, which likewise disgorge in -the water, then put the head into a stewpan well covered with water, let -it boil two hours, when take it out, separate the bones from the flesh, -which cut into small pieces. In another stewpan have a middling-sized -onion cut into small dice, which set upon the fire, adding two ounces of -butter, and saute them a light brown color, when add a tablespoonful of -curry powder, and half that quantity of curry paste, mix well together, -then put in the pieces of head with half a pint of broth, and stew -gently for half an hour. Whilst the curry is stewing, take the brains -from the water, and put them into a stewpan of boiling water, let simmer -five minutes, after which chop very fine, and put them into a basin, -with a good handful of bread-crumbs, a little white pepper, salt, and -chopped parsley, mix well together with an egg, and form it into six -little round balls, which egg and bread-crumb twice over, and fry in a -little hot lard, of a very light brown color, then dress the curry upon -a dish, lay the brain croquets round, and serve with rice separately. - - -525. _Calf's Head Curry_ is usually made with the remains left from a -previous dinner; if about two pounds of meat remaining upon the bone, -cut it whilst cold into thin slices, then cut two onions and two apples -into small dice, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter and -half a clove of garlic cut in slices, stir with a wooden spoon over the -fire until sauted nice and brown, when add a tablespoonful of curry -powder, half one of flour, mix well, then pour in a pint of broth, add a -little salt, and boil twenty minutes, keeping it well stirred; then put -in the calf's head, and let it remain upon the fire until quite hot -through; add the juice of half a lemon, which stir in very gently, -without breaking the meat, dress it upon a dish, and serve with rice -separately. Curry sauce may be passed through a sieve previously to -putting the head in. - - -526. _Calf's Feet Curry._--After boiling a set of feet for calf's feet -jelly, the feet may be served in curry as follows: separate the meat -from the bones whilst the feet are warm; when cold, cut them into small -square pieces, and proceed exactly as in the last; or use curry sauce. - - -527. _Calf's Tail Curry._--Cut up calves' tails into joints, which put -into a stewpan, with a small piece of lean ham and a bunch of parsley, -thyme, and bay-leaf; cover them with three pints of cold water, and let -simmer about two hours, until tender, keeping them well skimmed; when -done, strain the stock through a hair sieve into a basin, and put the -tails upon a plate; then proceed as directed for calf's head curry, but -using the stock from the tails, and reducing the curry until rather -thickish before adding the tails. - - -528. _Ox Tail Curry_ is made precisely as in the last, but one tail -would be sufficient, and it would require double the time to stew; or -use curry sauce. - - -529. _Tripe Curry._--Cut two large onions into very small dice, which -put into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, and stir over the fire -until brown, when well mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder and half -that quantity of paste; add a pint of broth, and two pounds of double -tripe cut into strips; let the whole stew very slowly one hour, keeping -it well skimmed, when dress it upon a dish, and serve with rice -separately. - - -530. _Lobster Curry._--Procure a large boiled lobster, break the shell, -and take out the flesh in as large pieces as possible, cutting the tail -into about six pieces, and the claws of a proportionate size; then cut -two onions into small slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of -butter, fry them of a light yellow color, then mix in a good -tablespoonful of mild curry paste (or half powder and half paste), and -add a pint of good broth, then boil it up over the fire until becoming a -little thickish, when put in the lobster, stir the whole round, then -cover the stewpan closely, and put it into a moderate oven half an -hour, by which time the curry would be of a proper consistency, and the -lobster very delicately tender, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve -with rice separately. If no oven it may be very gradually stewed over a -slow fire, in which case it might want moistening occasionally. - - -531. _Crab Curry._--Prepare the onions and curry precisely as in the -last, but adding the flesh of a crab (broken small) instead of a -lobster; let it stew over the fire about twenty minutes, add the juice -of half a lemon, and serve as before. - - -532. _Oyster Curry._--Blanch and beard six dozen of oysters, leaving the -oysters in their own liquor; then cut two middling-sized onions into -small dice, and saute it in a stewpan, with an ounce of butter; when -done, mix in two teaspoonfuls of curry powder and one of curry paste, -then add the oysters with their liquor, and keep stirring over the fire -until the oysters become enveloped in a thick sauce, when turn them out -upon your dish, and serve with rice separately. - - -533. _Prawn Curry._--Procure sufficient prawns to weigh about a pound; -when picked, put half of a small onion chopped very fine into a stewpan, -with half an ounce of butter, stir them over the fire until becoming -rather yellowish; then add two teaspoonfuls of mild but rather piquant -curry paste, mixing the whole gradually with half a pint of good broth; -then put in the prawns, and stew gently about a quarter of an hour, when -they will be ready to serve; rice separate. - -If no curry paste, powder may be used, but the paste is far preferable. - -Shrimps may also be curried in the same way, but they are in general so -very salt. - - -534. _Salmon Curry._--Have two slices of salmon, weighing about a pound -each, which cut into pieces of the size of walnuts, cut up two -middling-sized onions, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter -and a clove of garlic cut in thin slices, stir over the fire until -becoming rather yellowish; then add a tablespoonful of curry powder and -half that quantity of curry paste, mix all well together with a pint of -good broth, put in the salmon, which stew about half an hour, pour off -as much of the oil as possible; if too dry, moisten with a little more -broth, mixing it gently, and serve as before. - -Salmon curry may also be made with the remains left from a previous -dinner, in which case reduce the curry sauce until rather thick before -putting in the salmon, which only requires to be made hot in it. - -The remains of a turbot might also be curried in the same way, and also -any kind of fish. - - -535. _Fillet of Sole Curry._--Fillet two nice soles, and cut each fillet -into five pieces (slantwise); then in a stewpan have a small onion -chopped fine and fried, to which add a tablespoonful of curry paste, or -an equal quantity of paste and powder; when well mixed, put in the -fillets of soles, with just sufficient broth to cover them; let it boil -rather fast for ten minutes, when the sauce will become sufficiently -thick to envelop the fish, season with the juice of half a lemon, and -serve with rice separately. - -Fillets of haddocks or whitings are curried precisely the same. - - -536. _Skate Curry._--Plain boil about two pounds of skate with a piece -of the liver, which put upon a dish without a napkin, previously well -draining off the water; whilst the fish is boiling, cut two onions in -slices, which put into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter, and fry of a -lightish brown color; then mix in a tablespoonful of curry powder with a -teaspoonful of flour, and a pint of good broth, set it upon the fire, -keeping it stirred, and when boiling, put in a good-sized apple cut into -slices, let boil until it is reduced to about half, when rub it through -a tammy or hair sieve, pour it again into a stewpan, and when hot, pour -over the fish, and serve with rice separately. - - - - -EGGS. - - -537. _Plain Baked Eggs._--Butter with one ounce a plated dish, or common -tart-dish, that will bear the heat of the oven; break carefully six -eggs on it, season with one pinch of pepper, half a spoonful of salt, -and add half an ounce of butter in small pieces over, put them in a -slack oven until set, and serve. - - -538. _Baked Eggs with Asparagus._--Cut twenty heads of sprue into small -pieces, keeping only the tender part, boil them for fifteen minutes, put -them into a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, set them on the fire -for three minutes, season with a little pepper, salt, and sugar; when -done, put them in the dish you intend to serve it in, break six eggs -over, which season as above, put it into the oven until it sets, and -serve; in case the oven is not sufficiently hot, place a salamander over -the eggs. - - -539. _Mashed Eggs._--Break four eggs into a stewpan, with one ounce of -butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a pinch of pepper, put it on the -fire, stir continually, and as soon as delicately set, serve. - -These can be served with either green peas, sprue grass, or mushrooms, -which must be stewed and prepared as if ready to serve; put some in the -stewpan with the eggs, and proceed as before. If meagre, use cream -instead of butter. - - -540. _Eggs with Burnt Butter._--Put into a frying-pan two ounces of -butter, which melt; as soon as it is on the point of browning, put in -the eggs, which have been previously broken in a basin, and seasoned -with pepper and salt; when well set, serve, with a teaspoonful of -vinegar over the eggs. - - -541. _Eggs a la Tripe._--Cut about two onions each into thin slices, put -them in a stewpan, with half an ounce of fresh butter, and set them on a -slow fire; when warmed through, put half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter -ditto of pepper, a teaspoonful of flour, a gill of milk, and a little -sugar; let it boil, put in six hard eggs cut in quarters, and serve, -after a little ebullition. - - -542. _Snow Eggs._--Take half a pint of milk and a little sugar, and -flavor it with orange-flower water, or any other essence, and put it in -a stewpan on the fire, having previously beaten up the whites of six -eggs to a stiff froth; if very hot weather, you must place the basin -they are in on ice, or in cold water; whilst beating, add some powdered -sugar lightly; when the milk is boiling, take the white up with a -tablespoon, and drop it, one tablespoonful at a time, in the stewpan to -poach, keeping the shape of an egg, which turn over when set; when done, -remove with a colander on to a sieve, and dress them in a crown on the -dish you intend to serve them on; when all done, beat up the yolks of -four of the eggs in a stewpan, with a little sugar and a few drops of -orange-flower water, pour part of the boiling milk out of the stewpan -into it, sufficient to make a good stiff custard, put it on the fire -until rather thick, and pour over the white, and serve either hot or -cold: the last is preferable. - - -543. _Eggs with Cheese._--Put into a stewpan about two ounces of grated -Parmesan, or Gruyere, or old Cheshire, with one ounce of butter, two -sprigs of parsley, two spring onions chopped up, a little grated nutmeg, -and half a glass of sherry; put it on the fire, and keep stirring until -the cheese is well melted; break six eggs in a basin, put them in the -stewpan, stir and cook them on a slow fire; when done, serve with fried -sippets of bread round. Or, - - -_Another way._ - -Put into a flat dish that will bear the oven a piece of butter the size -of a walnut, the same of grated cheese, the yolks of two eggs, some -grated cinnamon and nutmeg, mix these on the dish, put it either in the -oven or in the hot plate, or, from want of either, before the fire, -until it sets, then gently break six eggs on the dish, and cover with -grated cheese, and salamander until a nice brown, or for want of one, -keep it before the fire until it is so, and serve. - - -544. _Eggs in Cases._--Cut up a sheet of paper into pieces of three -inches square, turn up half an inch all around so as to form a kind of -case, they will then remain but two inches square in the inside. Take a -small piece of butter, a pinch of fine breadcrumbs, a little fine -chopped parsley, spring onions, salt, and pepper, and mix them -together, put a little into each case, then break one egg into each, put -them on a gridiron over a slow fire, and do them gently, or place them -in a dish in an oven; when well set, serve. - - -545. _Omelette with Herbs._--Break six eggs in a basin or stewpan, and -add to it a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and one of chopped eschalot -or spring onions, half ditto of salt, and a pinch of pepper, and beat it -well up together. Put into an omelette-pan, that is, a small frying-pan -six inches in diameter, two ounces of butter, which melt, then pour in -the eggs, stir round with a spoon; as soon as it begins to set, lightly -move it to that part of the pan opposite the handle, so that it occupies -only one third, hold it so that that part of the pan is the lowest, move -with a spoon the outside edges over, and let it remain half a minute, so -that it obtains a good color, turn it over on to the dish so that the -bottom is at the top. They must not be too much done, and served very -hot. They may be served plain, or with the addition of any gravy. - -Omelettes of ham, Parmesan, &c., are all made as the above, with the -addition that these articles must have been properly cooked previously, -and well chopped up, so as to mix well with the eggs, beat them up well -together, and cook in a pan the same way, or a little grated cheese may -be added. This I beg of you to practise; though simple, there is some -art in making it. - - - - -GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES. - - -546. _Asparagus, Peas, and Green Peas._--Put in a stewpan two spoonfuls -of plain boiled sprue-grass that has previously been cut up, add to it -half an ounce of butter, a little salt, pepper, and sugar, warm it on -the fire, moving it continually; when warm, put it with a spoon in the -centre of the omelette, turn over, and serve; the same with peas, and -add melted butter or white sauce. - - -547. _Oysters._--Open and blanch delicately twelve middle-sized oysters, -and put them in a stewpan with their own gravy, beard them, add a -tablespoonful of milk or cream, and give it a boil, then add half an -ounce of butter in which you have mixed a saltspoonful of flour, stir it -in without breaking the oysters, put over the centre of your omelette, -and proceed as before. - - -548. _Lobster._--Cut half or a small one in thin slices, put four -tablespoonfuls of melted butter in a stewpan, a few drops of essence of -anchovies, and a little cayenne; put in your lobster, warm it well, and -put in the middle of the omelette, as above. - - -549. _Kidneys._--Cook two kidneys as No. 430; when done, serve in centre -of omelette, as above. - - -550. _Mushrooms._--Wash about ten small fresh mushrooms, cut in slices, -put in a stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, a little salt, pepper, -and the juice of a quarter of a lemon, simmer for a few minutes on the -fire till tender; if too liquid, add a little flour, place in centre of -omelette, and proceed as above. - - -551. _Bacon._--Cut two ounces of good lean bacon in small dice, put in -pan to fry with the butter for one minute, then mix with the eggs -prepared as for omelette of herbs, and cook the same way. - - - - -ENTREES OF GAME. - - -552. _Broiled Pheasant._--Having drawn a pheasant, lay it upon its -breast, and pass a knife down the back-bone, upon each side, taking it -entirely out, then cut off the feet at the knuckle, break the leg and -thigh-bones, turning the leg inside, separate the breast-joint of the -wing, pressing the bird quite flat, then saute it in a saute-pan, with a -little lard or dripping, and when browned on both sides, and about half -done, place it upon a plate, season well with salt and pepper, egg and -bread-crumb over, and broil it upon a gridiron over a moderate fire -until sufficiently done, which would be in about a quarter of an hour, -when serve with game, mushroom, or any piquant sauce. - -The advantage of broiling or sauteing game or poultry is, that when you -are alone, you need only cook the half of any large bird at one time. - -_Game Curries._--I have also made very good game curries, but not too -hot with curry, as that would entirely destroy the flavor of the game. - - -553. _Pheasant stewed with Cabbage._--The following is an excellent -method for dressing a pheasant which should prove to be rather old, -although a young one would be preferable. Procure a large savoy, which -cut into quarters, and well wash in salt and water, after which boil it -five minutes in plain water, then drain it quite dry, cut off the stalk, -season rather highly with pepper and salt, have ready a middling-sized -onion, and half a pound of streaky bacon, which, with the cabbage, put -into a stewpan, covering the whole with a little good broth; let it -simmer at the corner of the fire three quarters of an hour, then thrust -the pheasant (previously three parts roasted) into the cabbage, and let -them stew nearly three quarters of an hour longer, or until the stock -has reduced to glaze, and adheres thickly to the cabbage, when dress the -cabbage in a mound upon your dish, with the bacon, cut into slices, -around, and the pheasant upon the top, half way buried in the cabbage; -have a little game sauce, which pour round and serve. - - -554. _Joe Miller's stewed Pheasant._--Roast a pheasant as directed (No. -582), but previously dipping it into flour, and occasionally flour over -whilst roasting, thus making the exterior very crisp, and keeping it -nearly white, then put the crumbs of two French rolls into a stewpan, -with half a pint of milk, a small eschalot, a bay-leaf, an ounce of -butter, and a little pepper and salt; let the whole boil a few minutes, -when take out the eschalot and bay-leaf, place a piece of buttered toast -upon your dish, pour the above over, dress the pheasant upon the top, -and serve. - - -555. _Hashed Pheasant._--Should you have any remains of pheasants from a -previous day, cut them into as neat pieces as possible, then put an -ounce of butter into a stewpan, with half an ounce of flour, which stir -two or three minutes over the fire, until becoming slightly browned; -then add a glass of port wine, half a pint of water, season highly, boil -at the corner of the stove, stirring and skimming occasionally, until -sufficiently thick to adhere to the back of the spoon; then put in the -pieces of pheasant, with a little coloring, let it remain ten minutes, -at the corner of the stove, but not to boil, when dress the meat upon -your dish, pass the sauce over through a sieve, and serve. - - -556. _A plain Salmi of Pheasant._--Or, should you have a pheasant left -that little has been cut from, cut and trim it into neat joints, which -put into a stewpan, then in another stewpan put the bones and trimmings, -chopped up very small, with an onion in slices, a little parsley, thyme, -and bay-leaf, four peppercorns, and a glass of sherry, boil altogether -two minutes, then add three parts of a pint of brown sauce, and half a -pint of broth (if no brown sauce, add a spoonful of flour and a quart of -broth or water and some coloring); let the whole boil until reduced to -half, skimming it occasionally; place a fine hair sieve over the stewpan -containing the pieces of pheasant, through which pass the sauce, warm -altogether gently, without boiling, and when quite hot dress the pieces -neatly upon a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve with sippets of fried -or toasted bread (cut into the shape of hearts) around. - -The remains of pheasant, or any other game, may also be minced and -warmed in a little of the above sauce, and served with poached eggs upon -the top, or likewise made into boudins and croquettes, as directed for -turkey. - - -557. _Grouse._--The Scotch method is to plain roast the grouse, dress it -upon toast, and pour plain melted butter over. - -But they may be dressed in any of the ways directed for pheasants, with -the exception of being stewed with cabbage, as may be likewise every -description of black game. - -558. _Stewed Partridges with Cabbage._--Have two nice partridges trussed -as for boiling, and run five or six slices of fat bacon, of the -thickness of a quill, lengthwise through the breast, but not to -protrude, and roast them fifteen minutes before a moderate fire; have -some cabbage stewed as directed for pheasant with cabbage, but stewed -nearly dry before thrusting in the partridges; keep the whole hot, but -not boiling, for about an hour; have ready two pork sausages, nicely -broiled, dress the cabbage, which must be quite dry, upon your dish in a -mound, with the partridges at the top, half buried in it, cut the bacon -in halves, placing a piece at each end, with a sausage at each side; -pour half a pint of game sauce round, and serve; good plain gravy is -also very nice. - - -559. _Partridge saute with Mushrooms._--Have two young partridges, each -of which cut in halves, and lay in a convenient-sized stewpan, into -which you have previously poured two or three tablespoonfuls of salad -oil, first seasoning them lightly with a little white pepper and salt, -and a sprinkle of chopped eschalots; put a cover upon the stewpan, which -place over a moderate fire, until one side of the partridges is browned, -when turn them over, proceeding the same until browned on both sides; -then pour off part of the oil, and add half a tablespoonful of flour, -which well mix in, then add a glass of sherry, half a pint of broth, and -twenty small button mushrooms (previously blanched); let it simmer, -skimming off all the oil which rises to the surface, until the -partridges are tender, and the sauce thick enough to adhere to them; -season the sauce a little if required, dress the partridges upon a dish, -sauce over, and serve. - -The remains of partridges may likewise be hashed or served in a plain -salmi as directed for pheasants. - - -560. _Woodcocks, a la Lucullus._--Plain roast the woodcocks as directed -in Roasts, catching their trails upon toast, upon which, when done, -dress the birds on a dish; have ready a little thick melted butter, with -which mix the yolk of an egg and a little cream, pour this over the -woodcocks, sprinkle lightly with bread-crumbs, salamander of a light -brown color, and serve with a little gravy round. - - -561. _Woodcock, the Sportsman's fashion._--Roast two woodcocks rather -underdone, catching their trails upon a large piece of toasted bread, -when done cut each bird into quarters, which place in a stewpan, with -the remainder of the trail cut small, a little pepper, salt, a glass of -sherry, a little chopped eschalot, the juice of half a lemon, and half a -gill of broth, let the whole simmer very gently a few minutes; dress the -pieces of woodcock rather high upon the toast, pour the sauce over, and -serve. - - -562. _Hashed Woodcock._--Should you have any remaining from a previous -dinner, cut each one in four (or if not whole, into neat pieces), chop -all the interior rather fine, which mix with a small piece of butter, a -spoonful of bread-crumbs, and a little chopped parsley, make six -croutons in the shape of hearts, from a piece of toasted bread, spread a -piece of the above preparation upon each, and put them in a warm oven -for a short time; hash the pieces of woodcock as directed for pheasant, -and serve with the croutons round. - - -563. _Snipes a la minute._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a -stewpan, over which lay six snipes, breasts downwards, add a spoonful of -chopped onions, the same of chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, -half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper; set the -stewpan over a brisk fire for seven or ten minutes (according to the -size of the birds), stirring them round continually; then add the juice -of one lemon, two glasses of sherry, the same of broth, and a spoonful -of finely-grated crust of bread; let the whole simmer a few minutes -longer, dress the birds upon a dish, stir the sauce well together, pour -it over the snipes, and serve; a little glaze is an improvement. - - -564. _Plovers saute with English Truffles._--Procure four plovers, which -lay breasts downwards in a stewpan, containing a quarter of a pound of -butter, to which add eight raw truffles, well washed, peeled, and cut -into very thin slices, two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful of -salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper, pass the whole ten minutes over a -sharp fire, stirring them round occasionally; then well mix in half a -tablespoonful of flour, which moisten with half a pint of broth and a -glass of white wine; let the whole simmer at the corner of the fire -twenty minutes longer, keeping it well skimmed, dress the birds upon a -dish, reduce the sauce to a proper consistency, season with a little -sugar and the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the birds; serve very -hot. - - -565. _Wild Duck, with Orange Sauce._--Having trussed your duck as for -roasting, rub it all over with the liver until quite red; then put it -down before a good fire to roast for twenty minutes, after which cut -eight incisions down the breast, and have ready the following -preparation: put an ounce of butter into a stewpan, with a quarter of a -saltspoonful of cayenne, the rind of an orange (free from pith, -previously cut into strips, and blanched in boiling water, and well -drained upon a sieve), and the juice of a lemon, warm all together, and -when melted, but not oily, pour over the duck, and serve. - - -566. _Hashed Wild Duck._--Cut up the remains of a duck or ducks into -neat pieces, and put into a stewpan with half or a tablespoonful of -flour (depending on the quantity), mix well, moisten with a glass or two -of wine, and sufficient broth or water to make a thickish sauce, season -well, add a little Harvey sauce, mushroom-catsup, a little sugar, and -cayenne pepper; let simmer, but not boil, take out the pieces, which -dress upon toast, reduce the sauce, pour over, and serve. A little -coloring may be added, if approved. - - -567. _Widgeons._--Rub the breast of a widgeon over with a part of the -liver, chop up the remaining part, to which add a few bread-crumbs, a -little chopped lemon-peel, chopped parsley, and an egg, with which stuff -the interior, roast nearly as long as for the wild duck before a very -sharp fire, dress upon toast on a dish, having ready the following -sauce: put half a glass of port wine into a stewpan, with a teaspoonful -of chopped eschalots, a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, boil a few -minutes, add the juice of a lemon, and two ounces of fresh butter, sauce -over, and serve. Widgeons are hashed the same as wild duck. - - -568. _Teal, a new method._--Procure four, draw them; then put half a -pound of butter upon a plate, with a little pepper, grated nutmeg, -parsley, a spoonful of grated crust of bread, the juice of a lemon, and -the liver of the teal, mix well together, and with it fill the interior -of the teal; cover them with slices of lemon, fold in thin slices of -bacon, then in paper, and roast twenty minutes before a sharp fire; take -off the paper, brown the bacon, dress them upon a slice of thick toast, -letting the butter from the teal run over it, and serve very hot. - - -569. _Teal a la sans facon._--Roast four teal quite plain, prepare a -quarter of a pound of butter as above, with the omission of the livers, -which place in a stewpan over the fire, stirring quickly, until forming -a kind of sauce, add some fillets from the pulp of a lemon, sauce over, -and serve. The remains of teal also make excellent hash. - - -570. _Larks a la minute._--Proceed as directed for snipes a la minute, -previously stuffing them with their livers as directed for widgeons, -adding a few mushrooms at the commencement; but do not let them stew too -quickly, or the bottom will brown and give a bad flavor to the sauce; -seven minutes are quite sufficient to stew them. - - -571. _Lark Pie._--Cover the bottom of a pie-dish with thin slices of -beef and fat bacon, over which lay ten or twelve larks previously rolled -in flour, stuffed as above, season with a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter -ditto of pepper, one of chopped parsley, and one of chopped eschalots, -lay a bay-leaf over, add a gill of broth, and cover with three quarters -of a pound of half puff paste, bake one hour in a moderate oven, shake -well to make the gravy in the pie form a kind of sauce, and serve quite -hot. - - -572. _Jugged Hare._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter, with a pound of -bacon cut into dice, and the hare, cut into pieces, in a stewpan: set -upon a moderate fire until the pieces of hare are becoming firm, when -add six ounces of flour, mix well, and moisten with sufficient water to -cover it: add two glasses of any kind of wine, and one of vinegar, -season high with pepper and salt, let simmer until tender, keeping well -skimmed; when done, and the sauce becoming rather thick, dress upon your -dish, and serve. - - -573. _Jugged Hare (another way)._--Put about half a pound of butter, -with ten ounces of flour, into a stewpan, put it on the fire, and keep -stirring it round until it has a yellow tinge; then add a pound of bacon -cut in square pieces, stir it a little longer on the fire; the hare -having been previously cut up, put it into the stewpan and stir it about -until it becomes firm, when add four glasses of port wine and sufficient -water to cover it; season, and add two bay-leaves and four cloves, and -when half done, about fifty button onions, or ten large ones in slices, -a tablespoonful of brown sugar, let it simmer until it is well done and -the sauce rather thick; dress up, sauce over, and serve. If an old one, -it will take about four hours. - - - - -ROASTS--SECOND COURSE. - - These dishes consist almost always of game, which require to be - sent up immediately they are taken from the fire, and require great - care and attention in cooking them. In the following pages will be - found many which are scarce and rarely seen in London, and never - mentioned in our various cookery books; but considering that many - of our friends reside in the country, I have written it for them. - - -574. _Turkey Poults._--Turkey poults, so called from being used when -about the size of a large pullet, are trussed with the legs turned at -the knuckle and the feet pressing upon the thighs, the neck is skinned -and the head fixed under the wing; roast them the same as directed for -turkeys, about twenty-five minutes or half an hour, according to their -size, and in the same modes, but they are usually served, one larded and -the other barded, with gravy and water-cresses in the dish. - - -575. _Roast Capon with Cresses._--Roast and serve a capon in any of the -ways directed for turkeys, roast of a nice gold color, and serve with -water-cresses round; a capon weighing five pounds requires about three -quarters of an hour to roast. Poularde au cresson, exactly as above. - - -576. _Roast Pullet._--For a dinner of four entrees you would require two -fowls, but not too large; truss and roast them as directed for a turkey, -judging the time required according to their size, and serve with gravy -and water-cresses; they may be larded, barded, or served in any way -mentioned in the foregoing receipts. A fowl weighing two pounds and a -half would require half an hour roasting, or three quarters of an hour, -if larger. - - -577. _Spring Chickens_ are served like fowls, generally plain roasted, -but they may be larded as the poularde. Be particular in tying the legs -upon paper to the spit, as directed for the turkey, as it so improves -their appearance when roasted. About twenty minutes would be sufficient -to roast them. - - -578. _Goslings._--A green goose roasted plain, and served with a little -gravy, is generally sent up for second courses; but if the larger ones -are used, they must be stuffed with sage and onions, but very few would -choose such a thing for a roast second course, whilst green geese in -their season are great favorites; truss them by cutting off the leg at -the knuckle, and the wing at the first pinion, fixing them at the side -with skewers to throw the breast up; a full-grown goose will take one -hour to roast, but a green one not more than half an hour. - - -579. _Ducklings_ make a very favorite roast in the London season; they -must have good fillets, white and plump, and require to be a little more -underdone than any other description of poultry; if too much done, the -fat catches and gives a rank flavor to the flesh, besides causing the -fillets to eat dry. They are usually served plain roasted for a second -course, yet I have served them differently upon some occasions for the -sake of variety, but it must be with a very thin sauce and one that -invigorates the palate, although they never can be better than when -served plain roasted. I shall here give one or two deviations: truss -them by twisting the legs at the knuckles and resting the feet upon the -thighs, cut the wing off at the first pinion and run a skewer through -the bird, fixing the pinion and legs with it, place them upon a spit, -and roast twenty minutes. - - -580. _Guinea Fowls._--These birds must be very young, for, being -naturally very dry, they are not eatable if more than twelve months old; -they are generally larded or barded, and served plain roasted, rather -well done; they are trussed like the common fowls, and require nearly -three quarters of an hour to roast. - - -581. _Pea Fowls._--These magnificent birds make a noble roast, and when -young are very excellent; they are larded, plain roasted, and served -with the tail stuck into the bird, which you have preserved, the head -with its feathers being left folded up in paper, and tucked under the -wing; roast about an hour and a half, take the paper from the head and -neck, dress it upon your dish with water-cresses, and the gravy and -bread-sauce separate in a boat. - - - GAME (CHOICE OF).--There is no article of food that is so deceiving - in appearance to know if it is young, tender, and good, or not, as - game; to a person living in the country, where a member of the - family has shot them in his day's sport or have been received as - presents, a knowledge how to distinguish them is requisite. Young - birds may be distinguished by the softness of their quills; females - will eat better than males, they are more tender and juicy. Old - pheasants are known by the length and sharpness of their spurs, in - young ones they are short and blunt.--Old partridges before - Christmas have light-blue legs, instead of yellow-brown.--Wild fowl - may be known to be old from their bills and the stiffness of the - sinews of the legs, those that have the finest plumage are the - worst eating.--Hares and rabbits: try if the ear will easily tear - and the jaw-bone break between the finger and the thumb, if not - they are only fit for soup or jugging.--On receiving birds of all - kinds, put in their mouths three or four peppercorns bruised and - one clove of garlic, and pepper the place where shot. In case you - receive many, tie a piece of paper to them with the date on which - they were received. - - -582. _Pheasants._--At the present day there are great varieties of -these birds, which differ as much in their flavor as their plumage. -There are also a large quantity of hybrids sold in market as a genuine -pheasant, and it is impossible to know them when plucked. The flavor of -the bird will depend in a great measure on the nature of the country -where it is killed. - -Have them prepared and trussed: put them about eighteen inches from the -fire for five minutes, then draw them close, and roast as quickly as -possible, rubbing them all over with a little butter, serve up with -bread-sauce separate, and good gravy under. They are also good larded, -or one larded and the other barded. - - -583. _Partridges._--The red-legged in this country are not so fine in -flavor as the gray; they are dressed like the pheasant, but all the time -at a very quick fire, and serve very hot from the spit; it is better to -wait a minute or two for it than to have it wait for you; dish it up -with a little made gravy with it, and bread-sauces, as above. - - -584. _Grouse._--These birds should be well kept, trussed like a fowl for -roasting, and served with brown gravy under, or may be dressed as -follows: truss as before, covering the breast with vine leaves and fat -bacon, which tie on; roast from half to three quarters of an hour -according to size, and serve with toast under, and melted butter over. - - -585. _Red Grouse, Gorcock or Moorcock--the common Moor Game -(l'Attagas)._--Trussed like a fowl for roasting, which cook quick before -a sharp fire, serve with toasted bread under. - - -586. _White Grouse or Ptarmigan (le Lagopede)._--They are to be trussed -like the above, and plain roasted, and served with toast under and fried -bread-crumbs, separate or dressed as follows:--Put two spoonfuls of -currant-jelly in a stewpan, with the juice of a lemon and a little salt -dissolved in it; when melted, pour over and serve. - - -587. _Wild Ducks (Canard Sauvage)._--The male is called the Mallard, and -the young one Flapper. Under the above title a great many birds are -sold. - -They should all be cooked alike; they must be kept two or three days -before they are dressed; they are trussed by twisting each leg at the -knuckle, and resting the claws on each side of the breast, fixing them -with a skewer run through the thighs and pinions of the wings; rub the -liver over the breast, roast them before a quick fire from fifteen to -twenty minutes, baste with butter, not basting them when first put down -will keep the gravy in; one should be better done than the other, in -order to suit the taste of those at table; serve with made gravy under, -and a lemon separate. - - -588. _Widgeon, Whewer, or Whim (le Canard Siffleur)._--These should be -eaten fresher than a Wild Duck, trussed, dressed, and served the same; -fifteen minutes is sufficient before a good fire. - - -589. _Dunbird, Pochard, or Great-headed Widgeon (Penelope, le -Millouin)._--In some parts, _Red Heads_, _Parkers_, or _Half Birds_. -These are dressed as above, but are not so good as the Widgeon. - - -590. _Teal (la petite Sarcelle)._--This is a delicious bird when fat, -which they generally are after a frost. They must be trussed with care -like ducklings; they will take about eight minutes to roast; serve with -gravy, water-cresses, and lemon, separate, about six on a dish; or with -sauces Nos. 141, 143. - - -591. _Garganey (la Sarcelle)._--These are called Summer Teal, resemble -it in shape, and are dressed the same way. - - -592. _Plover._--Of these there are several sorts, all of which are good -to eat at certain seasons. - -They should be well kept, but not too long, trussed gently, but not -drawn, and put on a skewer, place them a little distance from a sharp -fire, with a bit of toast under to catch the trail, baste with a little -good butter, ten minutes is sufficient; dress them with toast under, and -serve with gravy separate. They may also be served barded with vine -leaves and very thin bacon. - - -593.--_Woodcock (la Becasse)._--This is a most delicious bird when well -cooked; they must not be kept too long; they are fit for cooking when -they become black between the legs, and the feathers are rather loose; -truss them with the legs twisted at the knuckles, and the feet pressing -upon the thighs, bring the pinion of the wing to the thigh, having -previously skinned the neck and head; bring the beak round under the -wing, which pass through the pinions of the wings and thighs. Place four -on a skewer, tie them on a spit, and roast before a sharp fire from ten -to fifteen minutes, placing toast under to catch the trail; when done, -serve on the toast and a very little gravy: they may also be barded with -thin slices of bacon over the breast, and served with a sauce of _fumet -de gibier_. - - -594. _Snipes._--They are dressed in every respect like Woodcocks; and -from seven to ten minutes is sufficient. They may likewise be fried in -plenty of oil, and served with sauces Nos. 131, 143. - - -595. _Larks (l'Alouette)._--They are best in winter when very fat; they -are roasted plain or with a thin slice of bacon and a leaf of celery -tied over them; they require about eight minutes, and served with a -little gravy and bread-crumbs, they are also used in pies (see _Pigeon -Pie_); and may be dressed like Snipes. - - -596. _Quail (la Caille)._--Should be killed at least forty-eight hours -before they are wanted; they should then be plucked, singed, drawn, and -trussed by cutting off the wings at the first pinion, leaving the feet, -and fixing the pinion and the wings with a very small skewer; cover the -breast with vine leaves and a slice of fat bacon, and run a skewer -through the pinions and thighs of each: tie on a spit and roast for ten -to twelve minutes before a sharp fire. They should be served a nice gold -color in a dish with a little gravy; they may also be trussed as above, -and put into a pig's caul, and roasted and served with either sauces -Nos. 141, 601. - - - 597. _Rabbits._--There are two sorts, the tame and wild; the wild - or gray inhabits the mountainous districts; has the finest flavor, - or on those places where it can feed on thyme, geneva, or other - aromatic herbs, or on the sea coast, where he gets the lichen or - wild moss. It has a much darker color than the tame. The tame - rabbit, if properly fed 21 days before killing, may be made a very - delicate article of nourishment; it should be kept from two to four - days. When killed it should be removed to a cold place as quick as - possible, that the fat may set. - -If old, the claws will be long and rough, the coat rough and gray hairs -mixed with it. If young, the claws and wool smooth. If stale, the flesh -will be slimy and a bluish color; if fresh, it will be stiff, and the -flesh white and dry. - - -598. _Hares._--One is sufficient for a roast, skin and truss it nicely, -stuff the interior with a good veal stuffing, sew it up, then put it on -the spit, rub butter over the back and shake flour over it, roast it -about forty minutes before a sharp fire, but that depends upon the size, -of course; serve them with plain gravy in the dish and currant jelly -separate. They are also served with a sauce poivrade, or sweet sauce; -they may also be larded. - - -599. _Leverets_ are plain roasted and do not require stuffing, nor so -long roasting, being smaller; they are usually served with plain gravy, -but may be served with either of the sauces mentioned in the last; you -require two for a roast. They will take from twenty-five to thirty -minutes roasting. They may be larded, for a change. - - -600. _Wild Fowl Sauce._--The following is a good sauce; the quantities -are given for one wild duck. - -Walnut catsup one tablespoonful; the same of Harvey's or Worcestershire -sauce, the same of lemon-juice, a wine-glass of red wine, a good slice -of lemon-peel, one eschalot minced, half a saltspoonful of cayenne -pepper, one blade of mace, and a wine-glassful of gravy; boil ten -minutes, serve very hot, and pour over the bird when cut up. - - -601. _Fumet de Gibier Sauce._--Take the remains or bones of game (the -back-bones of grouse are best), chop them up small, put them in a -stewpan, with a glass of white wine, an onion, a small piece of carrot -and of turnip sliced, a leaf of celery, a sprig of thyme, the same of -parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, half a blade of mace; stir over the fire -five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce, if too thick add some -water, boil for about twenty minutes, skim, strain, and serve; a little -lemon-juice and cayenne pepper may be added if approved of. - - - - -SAVORY DISHES. - - - 602. _Veal and Ham Pies (raised)._--The following few dishes will - be found extremely useful for breakfasts, luncheons, second course - in a dinner party, or for dinner in summer, but above all for - supper when you give an evening party. - - Having found a great difficulty in raising the crust for a pie with - my hands, I purchased for a trifle a tin pie-mould, by the use of - which the process is more simple, and the pie retains its shape - whilst baking, and secures the gravy, much better. - -Well wipe and butter the interior of the mould, then have ready two -pounds of pate fine, rather firm than otherwise, two thirds of which -roll out to fit the mould, press it evenly over the interior, raising -the paste half an inch above the edge of the mould, you have previously -prepared six pounds of veal, cut from the fillet, as follows: cut four -pounds into pieces an inch square, and as nearly as possible to the -length of the pie; with the remainder make some forcemeat (see Receipt); -then run eight pieces of fat bacon, each two inches in length, and a -quarter of an inch square, through each piece of veal; have also two -pounds of lean bacon, cut into pieces of nearly the same size as the -veal, then put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying-pan, and -when melted over the fire, lay in the veal and bacon, season rather -highly with a teaspoonful of salt, the same of pepper, half that -quantity of grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful each of chopped onion and -parsley, saute the whole a quarter of an hour, occasionally turning the -meat, until getting of a nice color, and the bottom of the pan is -covered with a thickish glaze; then line the interior of the pie with -some of the forcemeat, to the thickness of half an inch, after which lay -three pieces of veal at the bottom with two of the ham, alternately, -which cover over with more forcemeat, to about an inch in thickness, -then more veal and bacon, with forcemeat, again proceeding thus until -full, finishing with the forcemeat, forming a dome about an inch above -the edge of the paste, and lay a pat of butter with a bay-leaf at the -top, then mould the remainder of the paste into a ball, which roll to -the size of the top of the pie, wet the edges with a little egg, lay on -the cover, which press down with the thumbs, working the edge up -gracefully with the thumb and forefinger, to about an inch above the top -of the mould, cutting some of the paste away where too thick, and crimp -the extreme edge with a pair of paste nippers; then have ready half a -pound of puff paste, which roll to about the thickness of about a -quarter of an inch, from which cut a piece the size and form of the dome -of the pie, upon which place it to form a lid (previously wetting the -top with a little water), press it down lightly, egg over with a -paste-brush, edges as well, make a small hole with a knife at the top, -and carve any design upon the puff paste according to fancy; tie a band -of buttered paper round the mould, an inch above the pie, put it into a -moderate oven to bake about two hours, but to be certain if done, run a -pointed knife or trussing needle into the centre, and if it feels tender -it is sufficiently baked. - - Then take it from the oven, and pour in a gill of strong gravy, in - which you have dissolved a little isinglass (especially if in - summer); when cold, take it from the mould (which opens at one end - by drawing out a pin), and serve upon a napkin, garnished round - with parsley. To carve, cut it into slices, the whole breadth of - the pie and half an inch in thickness. - - Such a pie as above would weigh four pounds when baked; but should - you require a smaller one, diminish the proportions accordingly. If - no puff paste, the top might be ornamented with a few leaves from - the trimmings of the other paste. I have given you the above - receipt very minutely, as the above applies to every description of - raised pie, the difference only being its contents. - - -603. _Raised Pie of Fowls._--Make the paste and forcemeat as in the -last, but instead of veal and ham, bone a young fowl as directed for -galantine, which lay flat upon a clean cloth, breast downwards, season -the interior with a little pepper, salt, and chopped onions; spread a -layer of forcemeat over, half an inch in thickness, have ten pieces of -veal of the thickness of your finger, and the same length as the fowl, -and the same number of pieces of fat bacon, lay half of the veal and -bacon alternately upon the fowl, well seasoned with pepper and salt, -cover over with more forcemeat, then another layer of veal and ham, -cover with more forcemeat, then roll the fowl over, making the skin meet -at the back, you have previously lined a raised pie-mould with paste, -then line the pie with forcemeat, half an inch in thickness, lay in the -fowl, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, cover with the remainder -of the forcemeat, to form a dome, place a pat of butter and two -bay-leaves upon the top, finish and bake precisely as in the last: when -done, pour in a gill of gravy made from the bones of the fowl; serve -cold. - - -604. _Raised Pie of Pheasant._--Proceed precisely as for the pie of -fowl, but of course using a pheasant, an old one would answer the -purpose if kept long enough, but all the sinews of the legs must be -taken out in boning it, the fillets of the breast also, being very -thick, may be partly cut out and used with the veal for the interior; if -in a situation to obtain rabbits, the fillets of them might be used -instead of veal for the interior, and the legs for forcemeat. - -For gravy, break up the bones of the birds, which put into a stewpan -with a glass of sherry, an onion, a few sprigs of thyme, parsley, and a -bay-leaf; let it simmer a minute over the fire, then add a pint of broth -and a little isinglass or gelatine, let the whole simmer for an hour, -giving it a nice brown color, when pass it through a sieve into a -smaller stewpan, place it again upon the fire, skim off all the fat, and -reduce it to half a pint, and when the pie is baked, pour it in, shaking -the pie a little to mix well; serve when cold. - -Pies of grouse, partridges, moor fowls, &c. are made precisely in the -same manner, using one or more according to the size you wish to make -your pie. The fillets of hares are likewise excellent in pies, whilst -the legs might be jugged or converted into soup. - -Capons, poulards, green geese, or ducklings may also be served in a pie -by proceeding as directed for fowls, but managing the size of the pie, -and seasoning in proportion. - -Pigeon pie can also be made in the same way, but then the meat with -which the interior of the birds is filled must be cut much smaller, and -require less time in cooking. - - -605. _Simple method of making Pies._--Make two pounds of flour into a -paste, as No. 602, and also two pounds of forcemeat, mould three -quarters of the paste into a ball, which, with a rolling-pin, roll to -about half an inch in thickness and of an oval shape; lay half the -forcemeat in the centre, which spread over to within two inches of the -rim, having prepared and sauted some veal and ham as directed for the -veal and ham pie, No. 602, lay them alternately upon the forcemeat, with -which again cover the meat, laying a pat of butter and a bay-leaf upon -the top; roll out the remainder of the paste of an oval shape, but much -thinner than the other, damp the paste around with a little water, and -lay the sheet of paste over, pressing it down with the finger and thumb, -then wet the top, and bring up the paste at the sides, which will stick -to it, thus forming a long square pie, with the trimmings of the paste -form a few leaves, with which decorate it according to fancy, egg the -whole well over, make a hole in the top, and bake two hours in a -moderate oven; when done, pour in the gravy, as for pies made in moulds, -and put by to serve cold. A square piece of puff paste laid upon the -top, and ornamented previous to baking, is also a great improvement. -Some gravy, as above, may of course be introduced. - - You will perceive, my dear Eloise, from this one receipt, that any - kind of poultry, game, or meat pies, might be made in the same - manner. To carve, they should be cut across in thin slices through - paste and all. - - When we are alone I frequently make a very small one for luncheon, - generally grating half a pound of sausage meat, with which I mix an - egg and a little chopped eschalots, frying the veal or lean bacon - or ham, and proceeding as for the larger ones; from three quarters - of an hour to an hour would be sufficient to bake it; at times I - make it with a pigeon, partridge, or two plovers stuffed, and - surrounded with forcemeat, but boned: they are very excellent hot. - - -606. _Tureen of Game._--I bought the other day a common earthen tureen, -for which I gave ninepence; I made some forcemeat precisely the same as -for pies, boned a grouse and stuffed it as for a pheasant pie, and -seasoning the same; I then lined the tureen with the forcemeat, laid in -the bird, which I again covered with the remainder of the forcemeat, put -two pats of butter and a bay-leaf upon the top, then placed on the -cover, fixing it down with a band of common paste laid inside upon the -rim of the tureen, and baked it three hours in a moderate oven, and when -I opened it about a week afterwards it was most delicious; when served -to table the cover should be taken off, the bay-leaf removed, and a few -fresh water-cresses laid over. All sorts of game, poultry, and meat, I -have done in the same way; it is quickly done and very good and -economical, as it will keep a long time. - - - 607. _Galantines._--Having twice failed in the attempt to make this - difficult dish, I was about to relinquish the idea, but having - received a small turkey about two months back, I could not resist - making another attempt, in which I succeeded; it is rather - expensive, but it is a beautiful dish for supper. After having - plucked, and singed off the hairs with a piece of lighted paper, I - laid it breast downwards upon a clean cloth, and with a - sharp-pointed knife boned it as follows: first, just pass the point - of the knife through the skin, which cut open straight down the - back-bone, then proceed to clear the flesh from the bones of the - carcase until you come to the breast-bone, disjointing the wings - and legs as you proceed; very carefully detach the breast-bone from - the flesh without cutting through the skin, when you may remove the - carcase with the interior of the turkey; then proceed to take the - bones from the legs and wings, which is not quite so difficult; for - the legs, scrape the first bone free from the flesh to below the - first joint, where chop it off; cut the flesh round over the - knuckle and pull the foot, when the remainder of the bone and - sinews will come together; then cut off the wings at the first - pinion, and the remaining bone is quickly scraped away. - - I can assure you I found this quite a job the first and second - time, but it is very essential to learn, as all kinds of poultry - and game are boned in the same manner, and to this description all - references upon the subject must be made throughout our little - work. - -You have prepared four pounds of forcemeat, as for pies, also have long -strips of veal, ham, and fat bacon, which well season with salt, pepper, -and chopped eschalots; put a layer of the forcemeat an inch thick down -the bird, leaving two inches upon each side uncovered, then some of the -veal, bacon, and cooked ham alternately, which again cover with -forcemeat, but not exceeding half an inch in thickness (as too much -forcemeat between the meat would spoil its appearance), proceeding thus -until sufficient to fill the skin of the bird, when pull over the flaps, -and sew it up tightly with a packing needle and small string, and tie it -up in a napkin. If any, a few strips of cooked tongue, and blanched -pistachios, laid in alternately with the veal and bacon, greatly -improves its flavor and appearance. - -_To cook._ Put in a stewpan with two onions, a carrot, half a head of -celery, two cloves, a blade of mace, a good bunch of parsley, thyme, -and bay-leaves, a knuckle of veal, the bones of the turkey, two calf's -feet, two ounces of salt, add sufficient water to cover the whole, and -set the stewpan upon the fire until upon the point of boiling; then draw -it to the corner, skim, and let simmer for three hours; then take it -from the fire, leaving it in the stock until nearly cold; then take it -out, remove the string from the napkin, and roll the galantine up -tighter, tying the napkin again at each end only; then place it upon a -dish, the breast part upwards, set another dish upon it, on which place -a fourteen pounds weight, which will press and cause it to cut firm; -when quite cold it is ready to serve, having removed the napkin and the -string with which it was sewed: the stock, however, should be clarified -as directed in the next receipt to make a savory jelly, which, when cold -and firm, is cut in croutons and chopped, with which the galantine -should be tastefully garnished. - - Although at first I had some difficulty with this receipt, I can - now see the variety to which it leads, as the same process answers - for fowls, green geese, ducklings, pheasants, grouse, partridges, - &c., using game with the veal or pork for the interior, and stewing - them according to their size, the bones of game being stewed with - the stock would give the flavor to the savory jelly. - - -608. _To Clarify Meat Jelly._--Having passed the stock (made as in the -last) through a sieve into a basin, leave it until quite cold; then take -off all the fat very carefully, ascertain if sufficiently or too stiff -by putting a small piece upon ice; savory jelly requires to be rather -stiffer than sweet, if too stiff add a little more broth, if the -contrary, the stock must be reduced upon the fire until of the proper -consistency. When the stock is boiling, and you are perfectly assured of -its strength, have the white of four eggs with their shells in a basin, -with half a pint of water, two spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar, -and a glass of sherry, whisk all together; then whisk the stock quickly -a few seconds, and pour in the other ingredients whilst whisking, -continue whisking a few minutes until again upon the point but not -boiling; then take it from the fire, and taste if palatable, place a -cover upon the stewpan, which stand a little distance from the fire, -putting a few red-hot cinders upon the lid for five minutes, tie a -napkin by the four corners upon a jelly stand, through which pass the -jelly, having a basin beneath to catch it, pour the first that runs -through again into the napkin until it runs quite clear; when all -through, pour it in a plain mould or saute-pan, which place upon ice -until the jelly is quite firm; then dip the bottom of the mould in hot -water, turn the jelly out upon a cloth, and cut it into whatever shapes -you please, to garnish and ornament any cold savory dish; the jelly when -warm might be divided, one part kept white, and the other colored with a -little brown gravy or coloring, thus enabling you to variegate in -garnishing. - -Should the jelly be required to ornament tongues, hams, pies, salads, or -any article when no galantine is made; then to make the stock, cut the -veal into small pieces, and split the calf's foot in two, put a quarter -of a pound of butter in a convenient-sized stewpan, with the veal, foot, -a small piece of lean ham, and the other ingredients as directed for -galantine, pour in half a pint of water, put on the lid and stand it -upon the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white -glaze; then add a gallon of water, let simmer three hours, keeping it -well skimmed; then pass and clarify as above. - -The knuckle of veal and foot may be served hot with a little parsley and -butter, for a dinner previous to your party, with a little fried bacon -separately, but for my own part I prefer them plain as they leave the -stewpan. - - -609. _Cold Ham._--Procure a very nice but small ham of about nine pounds -in weight, which soak about ten hours in cold water, and simmer three -hours in plenty of water; when done, take out and let remain until cold; -then cut off the skin as thinly as possible, but without leaving the -marks of it; let a piece remain upon the knuckle about two inches and a -half in breadth, which either festoon or vandyke, carve the fat neatly -to form a shell, and glaze it over lightly, serve with a paper frill -upon the knuckle, and garnish with savory jelly, or if plain with a few -bunches of fresh green parsley. A handful of fresh hay put in the water -when boiling is an improvement. - - -610. _Cold Tongue._--Boil a nice ox tongue for three hours, and, when -done, take off all the skin, and truss it of a good shape, by placing -the root against some fixture, and running a fork through the middle of -the thin part into the board upon which it stands; when cold trim and -glaze it lightly over, cutting off the greater part of the root, place -it upon a dish, garnished either with savory jelly or fresh sprigs of -parsley. - - -611. _Galantine of Veal._--When I do not like to go to the expense of a -turkey or other poultry for a galantine, I procure a small breast of -veal, and take out the tendons, which I stew; take out the remaining -bones, and trim the meat to about fifteen inches in length and eight in -width, using the trimmings for a ragout; season the interior of the -breast, and proceed to lay on the forcemeat veal, ham, and bacon, as -directed for the galantine of turkey, roll and sew it up, tie in a -cloth, braise, and afterwards press it in precisely the same manner; -when quite cold, glaze it nicely and serve, garnished with savory jelly; -or, if for a large supper, six or eight small dishes might be made from -it by cutting it into thin slices crosswise, and dressing six pieces in -a border upon each dish, with a little jelly in the middle, or if no -jelly, a sprig of parsley or water-cresses; but if served in the latter -way, I introduce two ounces of blanched pistachios. When making the -galantine, of course, the dishes must be placed at a distance from each -other at various parts of the table. I have also made a galantine of a -shoulder of lamb in the same way, previously taking out the bones. - - -612. _Cold Fillet of Veal._--Roast braise as No. 358; when cold, trim -neatly, and garnish with jelly or parsley. - -A loin of veal larded through the fleshy part with raw ham, and fat -bacon, and roasted as above, makes a very delicate dish. - -A small shoulder of veal might be boned the same as a shoulder of lamb, -and made into a galantine. - - -613. _Ribs of Beef larded._--Choose a piece of beef with about four -ribs, and cut very long, carefully take away the bones, lard the fleshy -part through with strips of fat bacon, well seasoned with pepper, salt, -and chopped parsley; spread some veal stuffing over, and roll it round, -keeping the stuffing in the interior, tie it up with string, and roast -in vegetables as in the last article, leaving it to cool in the -vegetables; when cold, glaze and serve, garnished with sprigs of -parsley. - -The beef well rubbed with garlic and well seasoned with salt and pepper, -previous to spreading on the stuffing, would be a great improvement. - -I sometimes leave the bones in the meat, lard the fleshy part, and -afterwards roast it in vegetables to serve cold. - - -614. _Pressed Beef._--Procure a piece of brisket of beef, cut off the -bones, and salt it as directed (No. 615), but adding a little extra sal -prunella to the brine and a little spice; let the beef remain in pickle -rather better than a week: when ready to cook, roll it round, tie it in -a cloth, and let it simmer gently in plenty of water, about seven hours -if a whole one, but four hours if only the thin end; when done take it -up, remove the string, and tie the cloth at each end, put it upon a dish -with another dish over, upon which place half a hundred-weight, leaving -it until quite cold, then take the meat from the cloth, trim and glaze -it lightly, and serve garnished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley. - - -615. _Pickle for Beef a la Garrick._--Take twenty pounds of salt, three -quarters of a pound of saltpetre, four cakes of sal prunella, two pounds -of moist sugar, two cloves of garlic, with which rub the meat well, and -leave it rather more than a week, rubbing and turning it over every day. - -This pickle is adapted for anything that is required red. - - -616. _Spiced Beef._--Procure a piece of thin flank of beef about ten -pounds in weight, which salt as the last for about a week; when ready, -split it open with a knife and lay it out flat upon a dresser, having -previously prepared six onions chopped very fine, with about ten sprigs -of parsley, and the leaves of ten sprigs of thyme, the same of marjoram, -two ounces of mixed spice (without cinnamon), and half an ounce of black -pepper, mix altogether, spread half upon the beef as it lays before you, -then fold it over to its original shape, lay on the remainder of the -preparation, roll it up tightly in a cloth, boil, press, and serve as -directed in the last article. - - - 617. _Pig's Head in imitation of Wild Boar's Head._--This you will - say is not only a difficult dish to do, but a very expensive one. - You are right when you are obliged to buy the pig to possess the - head; but in a small farm-house where they kill a pig perhaps once - a year at Christmas, the head can be very easily cut off for this - purpose. Being on a visit some years since at a farm-house, I had - the opportunity of having one, and trying my skill upon it; it was - much approved of, both for its ferocious appearance, and its - flavor, and it lasted good for three weeks. - -The following is the way you should do it: procure the head with as much -of the neck attached to it as possible (the hog must have been stabbed -in the neck, not hit on the head as that would have broken the skull); -then singe it well over the flame of a fire, then wipe it with a cloth, -scrape well with a knife without scratching the skin, and place it on a -cloth upon its skull; open it very carefully without piercing the skin, -leaving no flesh whatever upon the bones; bone the neck of the pig, and -cut it into small fillets two inches long, place the head on a board and -rub it with half a pound of brown sugar, let it remain for one hour; -then place it in a salting tub, and throw over it six pounds of salt, -place in two quarts of ale, four bay-leaves, half an ounce of -peppercorns, a quarter ditto of cloves, six blades of mace, eight sliced -onions, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of winter savory, and two sliced -carrots; stir it well up, and let it remain for two hours; then pour -over the head, which turn every day for eight or ten days, rubbing it -well; when sufficiently salted, take it out and dry it on a cloth, lay -the head straight before you, skin side upwards; have ready six or eight -pounds of forcemeat, but using pork instead of veal, with which cover -the head an inch in thickness at the thinnest part; put the fillets cut -from the neck in a layer lengthwise in the head, with a long piece of -fat bacon, half an inch square, between each, sprinkle a little chopped -eschalots, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over, and continue filling -with forcemeat and the other ingredients until you have used the whole, -finishing by covering forcemeat over; join the two cheeks together with -the above in the interior, sew it up with pack-thread, giving it the -shape of the head as much as possible, and fold it in one or two large -thin cloths, leaving the ears out and upright. - - _Braise_ as follows: Put half a pound of butter in a large - braising-pan or stock-pot, over which put four pounds of trimmings - of pork or knuckle of veal, eight onions, two carrots, four - turnips, eight bay-leaves, a tablespoonful of peppercorns, twelve - cloves, ten sprigs of thyme, ten of marjoram, four blades of mace, - half a bottle of bucellas wine, and four calf's feet, place it upon - a sharp fire, stirring it occasionally, until the bottom is covered - with a clearish glaze, then add four gallons of water and half a - pound of salt; when boiling draw it to the corner of the stove, - skim, and put in the head, the ears uppermost, and let simmer seven - or eight hours, or according to the size and age of the pig; but - the better plan would be to try it with a trussing-needle; if - tender it is done; skim the stock, in which leave the head until - half cold, when take it out, partly undo the cloths, and tie it - again tighter if possible, and press it in a cover or upon a - baking-sheet with three flat pieces of wood, one at each side, with - a weight against them, and one upon the top between the ears, on - which place a fourteen pounds weight, let it remain all night until - quite cold, when take it out of the cloths, detach the thread it - was sewn up with, cut a piece an inch in thickness from behind the - ears (from which part it must be carved in as thin slices as - possible), it will have a marbled appearance; trim the head a - little, setting the ears in a proper position, glaze it with a - brownish glaze, form the eyes with a little lard and a few black - currants round, and the tusks with paste, baking them; have some - very fresh tulips and roses, which stick tastefully in the ears and - some around, but leaving space to carve; garnish boldly with - croutons, aspic, made from the stock clarified as directed (No. - 608); the meat and the calf's foot may be used for different - dishes, see receipts. - -The second one I had I boiled plainer, merely a little salt and a few -vegetables; it was very good, but not so rich in flavor as the other; -thus saving expense and trouble. They should be eaten with the following -sauce: - -_Boar's Head Sauce._--Cut the rind (free from pith) of two Seville -oranges into very thin strips half an inch in length, which blanch in -boiling water, drain them upon a sieve, and put them into a basin, with -a spoonful of mixed English mustard, four of currant jelly, a little -pepper, salt (mix well together), and half a pint of good port wine. - - - - -LETTER No. XV - - - DEAR ELOISE,--To you, who are so fond of lobster, the following - receipt will, I am confident, prove most valuable. To make sure of - its quality, buy one heavy in proportion to its size; or, perhaps, - _entre nous_, you would prefer to wait until a friend presented you - with one. - - - LOBSTER.--This fish, which is continually before our eyes, and only - looked upon as an article of food, is, without doubt, one of the - wonders of the creation. A creature destitute of bones, yet - furnished with a stomach capable of digesting the hardest - substances, even its own shell, which it doffs once a year, when it - is too small for it; without blood circulating through its body, - yet strong and active. This is only one of those wonders of the - mighty deep that we cannot but regard with awe and veneration, and - yet the principal interest they do excite is when we visit a - shell-fish shop to choose the largest and best for the smallest - price. They are, without doubt, a very nourishing aliment, and are - by many supposed to have a particular season, but which I believe - not to be the case, as I have known them in and out of season on - the same ground. When out of season, the pea or spawn is very - large, and about being hatched; immediately after which it sheds - its shell, and not its stomach, as is by many supposed. When in - season, and fine-flavored, it should have no spawn, or very little, - under the tail; and when its body is squeezed between the fingers - it should not give, but be hard; its weight will also be a test, as - it is a fish which wastes very much when kept long alive without - food: great care must be observed in the boiling of it. A number - should be placed at one time in a basket, and that placed in - boiling water, adding half a pound of salt to every gallon of - water, with a heavy weight upon it; if overdone, they eat tough and - thready; if underdone, unwholesome and unpalatable. One weighing a - pound will take fifteen minutes, and so on in proportion. - - -618. _Gratin of Lobster._--Procure a good-sized lobster, cut it in half, -detaching the head from the body; take out all the meat, and save the -four shells; cut the meat into slices, then take a teaspoonful of -chopped eschalots in a stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of two -walnuts, pass them a few minutes over the fire, add a tablespoonful of -flour (mix well in), half a pint of milk, stir over the fire, boiling -about five minutes, then add the lobster, which season with a little -cayenne, salt, chopped parsley, and essence of anchovies; stand it again -upon the fire, stirring until boiling, then stir in the yolk of an egg; -take off the fire, fill the shells of the lobster, sprinkle bread-crumbs -over, with a little butter, put in the oven for twenty minutes; dish on -a napkin and serve. To give it a nice color, use the salamander. - - -619. _Miroton Salad of Lobster._--Prepare and ornament a border of eggs, -like for that of game, put a thick layer of fresh salad in the centre, -and dress over it in a crown, the lobster interspersed with slices of -eggs and gherkins. The lobster must be divided in two across the back, -extract the meat carefully out of it, and cut it in a round or slanting -direction to the thickness of a crown piece, break the claws and cut the -same way, and place on salad as above, so as to form a thick crown near -the border of eggs, then take the interior of the lobster, pound it and -pass it through a fine sieve, add to your sauce. - -Any other kind of fish, as cod fish, &c., when cold, cut or break them -in slices, lay them in a basin, season over with salt, pepper, nutmeg, -slices of onion, parsley, a little oil and vinegar; put it in two hours -before serving, and proceed as for lobster. - -If there is any fish left from the previous day, I always make a salad -of it, particularly in summer; there are many who object to so much oil, -in which case it may be diminished. - - -620. _Salad Tartar._--Make as usual the border of eggs and sauce, lay -the salad in the middle and the lobster over, which has been previously -cut in slices; pour over some of the same sauce as above, having added a -tablespoonful of French mustard to it. Gherkins cut in slices, and a few -stoned olives. - - -621. _Plain Salad._--Take a lobster and any kind of salad, wash it well, -dry in a cloth, cut the lobster up in a salad-bowl, sprinkle over it a -teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, one of chopped tarragon or -chervil, or parsley, if nothing better, four tablespoonfuls of oil, and -two of common vinegar, but only one and a half if French, add the salad, -stir lightly round with a wooden knife and fork, and it is ready. - - -622. _Lobster served plain._--Break the tail from the body, cut the tail -in two lengthwise, put the body in the middle of the dish, lay the half -tail top and bottom, and the claws on the side; the shell previously -broken, but not disfigured, and serve double parsley round. - - -623. _Lobster Salad._--Dress a border of hard-boiled eggs, as directed -in salad of game (No. 628), fill the centre with some nice fresh salad, -then take the flesh from a middling-sized lobster, which cut into as -large slices as possible, which put into a basin, and season with a -little pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, after which dress them -pyramidically upon the salad, and have ready the following sauce: put -the yolks of two fresh eggs in a basin, with the yolk of a hard-boiled -one rubbed through a sieve, add half a saltspoonful of salt, and half -that quantity of white pepper, and commence stirring round with a wooden -spoon with the right hand, holding a bottle of salad oil in the left, -dropping it in by degrees and continually stirring, and when becoming -thickish add a couple of spoonfuls of common vinegar by degrees, still -keeping it stirred, then more oil, proceeding thus until you have used -three parts of a pint of oil, and a corresponding quantity of vinegar, -by continually working, it will form a stiffish cream-looking sauce -perfectly smooth; add a little more seasoning if required, and a -teaspoonful of chopped parsley, with half that quantity of chopped -eschalots, pour over the lobster and serve. Should the sauce curdle in -making, the operation must be again performed, putting a yolk of an egg -into another basin, working it with a little oil until forming a -stiffish paste, when stir in the curdled sauce by degrees until the -whole becomes smooth; always choose a cool place to make it in. - - -624. _Fish Salads._--All fish salads are made precisely as in the last, -but with the exception of fillets of sole salad, are made from the -remains of fish from a previous dinner, especially turbot and salmon; -but for fillets of soles they must be dressed thus:-- - -When filleted, melt an ounce of butter in a saute-pan, lay the fillets -in, season with pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; saute -them on a slow fire until done, which may be from four to five minutes, -and put by to get cold; cut in middle-sized pieces, and use as lobster. - - -625. _New Mayonnaise Sauce._--Put a quarter of a pint of melted aspic -upon ice in a stewpan, which keep whisking until becoming a white froth, -then add half a pint of salad oil and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, -by degrees, first oil and then vinegar, continually whisking until it -forms a white smooth sauce, to all appearance like a cream; season with -half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, and a little -sugar, whisk it a little more, and it is ready to serve; it is usually -dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with. The advantage -of this sauce (which is more delicate than any other) is, that you may -dress it to any height you like and it will remain so for a long time; -if the temperature is not too hot it will remain hours without melting -or appearing greasy. - - -626. _Tartar Sauce._--Rub the yolk of a cold hard-boiled egg through a -hair sieve into a basin, to which add the yolks of two raw eggs, with a -little salt and pepper; mix all together with a wooden spoon; have a -pint of good salad oil in a bottle, hold it with the left hand over the -basin, dropping it in very gradually, and with the right continue -stirring it round until it becomes rather thick, then moisten it with a -little tarragon vinegar, still keeping it stirred, then more oil, and so -on until you have used all the oil, keeping it rather thick; then add a -tablespoonful of finely chopped gherkins, half a ditto of chopped -capers, half a ditto of chopped eschalots, and the same of chopped -parsley, two of French mustard, a little cayenne pepper, sugar, and more -salt if required; it is then ready for use. This sauce requires to be -rather highly seasoned. Common vinegar may be used. - - -627. _Salmon in marinade._--Have two good slices of salmon cut about -four inches and a half in thickness, in a stewpan have three onions cut -in slices, as also a turnip, a carrot, a head of celery cut small, a -good half handful of parsley, two bay-leaves, and two ounces of butter; -pass the whole ten minutes over a sharp fire, then add a pint of -vinegar, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and one ounce of -salt; let simmer, then add three pints of water, put in the salmon, -which simmer gently about half an hour, and leave in the marinade until -cold, when serve with a little of the marinade strained through a hair -sieve in the dish. Trout, mackerel, herrings, sprats, and fillets of -sole or brill, are also very nice cooked in the same manner. A part of -the above marinade may be made at any time, and almost any kind of fish -remaining from a previous dinner may be done the same, and eaten cold. - - -628. _Salad of Game._--Boil eight eggs hard, shell them, throw them into -cold water, cut a thin slice off the bottom to facilitate the proper -placing of them in the dish, cut each one into four, lengthwise, make a -very thin flat border of butter about one inch from the edge of the -dish you are going to serve them on; fix the pieces of egg upright, -close to each other, the yolk outside, or alternately the white and -yolk; you lay in the centre a layer of fresh salad that may be in -season, and having previously roasted a young grouse rather underdone, -which you cut into eight or ten pieces, then prepare sauce as follows: -put a spoonful of eschalots, finely chopped, in a basin, one ditto of -pounded sugar, the yolk of one egg, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, -tarragon, or chervil, and a quarter of an ounce of salt, mix in by -degrees with a wooden spoon, four spoonfuls of oil and two of Chili -vinegar; when all mixed, put it on ice, or in a cold place; when ready -to serve up, whip a gill of cream rather thick, which lightly mix with -it, then lay the inferior parts of the grouse on the salad, sauce over -so as to cover each piece, then lay over the salad and the remainder of -the grouse; sauce over, and serve. The eggs may be ornamented with a -little dot of radishes on the point, or beet-root. Anchovy and gherkin, -cut into small diamonds, may be placed between, or cut gherkins in -slices, and lay a border of them round, or in any way your fancy may -dictate. - - -629. _Salad of Fowl._--Proceed as for that of game, so far as the eggs -and the salad are concerned; then have a chicken, which has been -previously plain roasted, or in vegetables, and cut it into ten pieces, -put it into a basin, season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter ditto of -pepper, two tablespoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, one onion sliced, and -a few sprigs of chopped parsley, mix them well, and let them remain for -a few hours, if time will permit. Take the pieces of chicken, and place -in a dish with salad, as directed for grouse, with the sauce, &c., and -serve. Nothing is better for ball-suppers than these kinds of dishes; -they may be made of all kinds of solid fish, and the sauce is excellent; -any kind of cold meat, dressed round with the sauce, may be served for -supper or luncheon. It may be served with the same sauce or dressing as -for Lobster Salad (or No. 623), or make the following one, which differs -a little:--Put into a middle-sized, round-bottomed basin the yolk of two -eggs, half a spoonful of salt, quarter of one of pepper, half a one of -sugar, ditto of fine chopped onions, ditto of parsley, or of tarragon, -or of chervil, stir with the right hand with a wooden spoon, while you -pour some oil out of the bottle by keeping your thumb on its mouth, so -that it runs out very slowly; when a few spoonfuls are in it, it will -become quite stiff; pour also by degrees a few spoonfuls of vinegar, and -so on until you have made enough for your salad; try if the flavor is -good and relishing, as the quality of these two last ingredients varies -so much, that I must leave it to your more simple and correct judgment. -If you should fail at first, try again until you succeed, and I am -certain you will be delighted with the result; it ought to be made in a -cold place, particularly in summer. Great taste should be observed in -the decoration of the border. - - - - -SHELL FISH. - - - _Prawns_ are best when very red and have no spawn under the tail. - - The _Escalop_ is a fish very little used, but is exceedingly fine; - it is in season at the same time as the oyster. It can be cooked in - a variety of ways, but previous to doing which, it should be kept - some time in salt water, so that it may free itself from any sand - that may be in it; when opened, all the beard should be removed, - and only the white, red, and black parts used; it may be cooked and - used in every way like oysters, and is excellent with matelote of - any kind of fish. - - _Razor Shell Fish_ or _Solen Fish_.--This is the aulo of the - Romans, and a beautiful eating fish. It should also be cooked like - oysters, and makes most excellent and strengthening soup. - - OYSTERS.--No oyster should be eaten under four years old; their age - is known by their shell--just the same as the age of a tree is - known by its bark, or a fish by its scale, and the small oyster has - the finest flavor. - - -630. _Escaloped Oysters._--Put two dozen of oysters with their liquor -into a stewpan, place over a fire, and when a little firm, drain them -upon a sieve, catching the liquor in another stewpan; detach the beard -from the oysters, and throw them again into their liquor; add half a -blade of mace, place again upon the fire, and, when boiling, add a piece -of butter the size of a walnut, with which you have mixed a teaspoonful -of flour; shake round over the fire until becoming thick, season with a -little cayenne, and salt if required; have an escalop shell, well -buttered and bread-crumbed; place the oysters in, sprinkle bread-crumbs -over, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour, pass the salamander over, -and serve. The yolk of eggs may be added, and less flour. - - -631. _Stewed Oysters._--Blanch and beard the oysters as above; when -done, put them with their liquor in a stewpan, with four cloves, a blade -of mace, and a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies, with a little -chopped parsley and cayenne; let simmer a minute, stir in two pats of -butter with which you have mixed half a teaspoonful of flour, let simmer -a little longer, lay the oysters in your dish upon a piece of toast, and -sauce over. - - - 632. _Shrimps._--Of these there are several varieties; a diversity - of opinion exists amongst epicures of this little animal which is - the best; but in my opinion a great deal depends on the manner of - boiling, and their freshness. - -The following is the plan: I prefer them boiled; to one gallon of water -put two ounces of salt, one sprig of lemon thyme and one of mint, and -let it boil; when boiling hard, put one quart of shrimps into an open -wire or wicker basket with a handle, and place it in the water: the time -they take to boil depends on the size of the fish, but may be known by -their changing color; be particular not to boil them too much, or they -will be tasteless and indigestible. - - - 633. _Forcemeat._--You will find this receipt so useful, and so - often in use in made dishes, soups, fish, entrees, &c., that I must - beg of you to devote to it your personal attention; and being - rather difficult to execute, be present when your cook makes it, - that she may follow strictly the receipt, which I flatter myself is - rather original. - -Take a pound and a half of lean veal, and cut it in long thin slices, -scrape with a knife till nothing but the skin remains; put it in a -mortar, pound it ten minutes, or until in a puree, pass it through a -wire sieve (use the remainder in stock), then take one pound of good -fresh beef suet, which shred and chop very fine, put it in your mortar -and pound it, then add six ounces of panada (made as under) with the -suet, pound them well together, and add the veal, season with a -teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, half that of nutmeg, work -all well together, then add five eggs by degrees, continually pounding -the contents of the mortar; when well mixed, take a small piece in a -spoon, and poach it in some boiling water, and if it is delicate, firm -and a good flavor, it is ready for use; if you require some very -delicate, add two tablespoonfuls of white sauce, or even thick melted -butter; you can vary the flavor by the addition of a spoonful of chopped -parsley, eschalot, mushroom, &c., the flesh of rabbit or fowl, or hare, -pheasant, grouse, &c., if plentiful, may be added, using the ingredients -in proportion. One quarter of this quantity may be made if required. - - -634. _Panada for Forcemeats._--Put two thirds of half a pint of water -into a stewpan holding a quart, with nearly an ounce of butter; when -boiling, stir in a quarter of a pound of flour; keep it moving over the -fire until it forms a smooth and toughish paste; take it out of the -stewpan, and when cold use it where directed. - - -635. _Forcemeats of Fish._--These are much in use in France and other -Catholic countries, especially in Lent, but they are a very excellent -garnish for entrees of fish; they may be made of the flesh of almost all -kinds of fish, more particularly the pike, salmon, trout, sole, haddock, -and the whiting, which last is the most delicate. - - -636. _Forcemeat of Whitings._--Take the fillets of three whitings, take -off all the skin, and pound them well, then take them from the mortar, -and form them into a ball; have a piece of panada (No. 634) one third -the size of the ball, put the panada into the mortar, pound it well, -then add two ounces of fresh butter, which mix well with the panada, -then add the fish, season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; -mix all well together, then add by degrees three whole eggs and the -yolks of two, try it in a little boiling water as directed for the -forcemeat of veal. These are served generally as a meagre dish with a -fish sauce, in Catholic families, especially in Lent time. - - -637. _Stuffing for Veal._--Chop up half a pound of beef suet very fine, -put it in a basin, with eight ounces of bread-crumbs, four ounces of -chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of equal quantities of powdered thyme -and marjoram, and a bay-leaf, the rind of a lemon grated, and the juice -of half one; season with pepper and salt, and one quarter of a nutmeg; -mix the whole with three whole eggs; this will do also to stuff turkey -or baked fish, adding some more chopped parsley. - - - - -VEGETABLES. - - - In describing to you the different ways these may be dressed, I beg - of you to make a constant use of them at your own table, as you - will find they will be much better than partaking of half-raw - greens, cabbage, turnip-tops, spinach, &c., and are less inviting - in flavor, and, consequently, do not get consumed so much as they - ought, which causes more meat to be eaten, and instead of - refreshing the blood, as all vegetables will do in their season, - only irritate it. Do not misunderstand me respecting our English - way of partaking of plain boiled vegetables; I do not wish you to - give them up entirely, but by adopting both plans, you will find it - a great advantage in our domestic cookery. For my part, I do not - object to our plain boiled vegetables, but merely to the neglectful - way they are cooked and served up, often swimming in water. In - France, no family in the middle station of life ever dines without - a dish of dressed vegetables, upon which as much care has been - bestowed in cooking as upon the principal dish of the dinner, and - is often eaten alone. - - -638. _Asparagus._--I cook it thus: I take a bundle and scrape lightly -all the white part, beginning from the head down, and throw them when -done into cold water, then tie them up in bundles of twenty-five each, -if an ordinary size, if very large, half that number, keeping the heads -together, and cut off the ends to make them the same length; have ready -a pan containing one gallon of boiling water, in which has been thrown -two ounces of salt, boil quickly for fifteen minutes, or till tender; -dish them up with a piece of toast in the middle, keep the heads in the -centre, and form a pyramid. Serve very hot, with rich melted butter, or -cream sauce. - - The queen of all vegetables, to my fancy, is asparagus. This may - almost be said to be a modern vegetable in this country, and it is - one which requires less cooking than perhaps any other, and is - considered exceedingly wholesome. - - - 639. _Young Green Peas._--Young Green Peas! Do not those words - sound pleasant to the ear, dearest? I fancy that by merely raising - my eyes from the paper on which I am now writing, I shall see all - our garden in buds and blossom; it not only seems to invigorate the - sensitive part of one's appetite, but works upon the mind to that - point that you may actually fancy you are breathing in a glowing - atmosphere, and that the pearly dew is gracefully descending in - small globules from heaven, to fix their sparkling eyes on the - pinky bloom of myriads of roses. But, alas! how soon this charming - illusion has disappeared since I have left for a moment the sight - of my paper to give a peep through the garden window, where I - perceive that though to-day is the 17th of April, the serious and - uncheerful Father Winter has once more monopolized those delightful - and variegated _nuances_ of Nature, by laying out his universal - snowy tablecloth over this for the present ephemeral vision which - the inviting words green peas had produced upon my senses; no doubt - the effect of a good fire in my parlor, where I am now sitting, has - had a great influence upon me respecting the summery temperature; - but as a few weeks longer will realize my wishes, I shall here - content myself by giving you the receipt how they ought to be - cooked when you can get them. - -When very young, I like them plain boiled, because their original flavor -is so fresh and delicate, that any addition, except a little very fresh -butter, would be certain to destroy their aroma; I even object to the -introduction of green mint, though I do not want to deprive you of it, -being only a matter of taste. - -Put two quarts of water to boil, with half an ounce of salt, and then -place in one pint of peas, boil a full gallop till tender (about ten -minutes), put in a colander, drain one minute; lay them, raised in the -centre, in a dish, put in them two pats of very fresh butter, and serve. - -When older or larger, boil a little longer, add twelve leaves of green -mint, which serve with it. - - -640. _Peas, French way._--They do not look so inviting, not being so -green; but I must say they are excellent as regards flavor. Choose them -young and fresh; without both of these qualities, they would not cook -properly. Put in a pint of cold water, mix the peas and butter well with -your hand, add four button onions, a bouquet of six sprigs of parsley, -one ounce of sugar, two saltspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, put it -over a tolerably good fire, moving them often; if getting rather dry, -add a wineglassful of water, twenty minutes ought to be enough when -tender; add one ounce of butter, in which you have mixed a teaspoonful -of flour, which put in it, and stir it well; make a liaison of the yolk -of one egg, a quarter of a gill of cream, which add and stir, take out -the parsley and onions, and serve. - -_Another way._--When large, I stew them with two cabbage-lettuces cut in -two, and stew longer, put in four wineglassfuls of water, or more if -required, and finish as above. - -To keep their color, I often proceed thus for entrees or second courses: -I plain boil as above, and put them in a stewpan, with four small -onions, a little mint, parsley, butter, sugar, and a drop of water, -simmer a few minutes, add as above the flour, butter, and liaison, and -serve; they are very good this way, but not so rich in flavor. - -There are different kinds, but I prefer the Prussian Blue above all. - - -641. _Seakale._--Proceed exactly as for asparagus for boiling, but -previously to boiling cut out the black part of the roots, and well wash -and tie it together, and serve with the same sauce as asparagus. There -is a kind of seakale that is rank and stringy, and not worth eating; it -may be known, when raw, by the outside near the root, which is very -tough and hard. - - -642. _Sprue-grass._--The longer the green part the better the sprue; -take each piece and gently bend it, and it will break off at that part -which you require, beyond it is too hard, and cannot be eaten; when you -thus have the pieces, cut them into lengths of a quarter of an inch, -which well wash; have one gallon of water, into which put one ounce of -salt, and boil, then put in the sprue and boil for ten minutes, or till -tender, then drain on a sieve, put them in a stewpan, with two ounces of -fresh butter, half a teaspoonful of flour, the same of salt, two pinches -of pepper, and place on the fire, stir well together, and serve hot. The -yolk of an egg, well beaten with two spoonfuls of cream, may be added to -it; and when serving, also two spoonfuls of white sauce or melted -butter,--but I always do it as the first. - - -643. _Celery._--Cut about ten heads of large celery from six to seven -inches long, trim the outside and cut the root to a point, wash it very -well between the leaves, tie three together, put a gallon of water, with -two ounces of salt, to boil, then add the celery, and boil for fifteen -minutes, then drain it, put into a stewpan a small slice of bacon, and -lay the celery on it, put it on the fire for two minutes, add one onion -sliced, cover with broth until quite tender, then take it out, and dish -on a piece of toast, pass the gravy through a sieve into a stewpan, skim -off the fat, reduce it to a demi-glaze, add a little sugar and a small -pat of butter, which you have rubbed into some flour, stir it well, and -sauce over; it ought to be thick, and of a nice brown color, which -produce, if required, by a little coloring. Marrow may be served with -it, by taking two good pieces of marrow, and boil for a few minutes in a -quart of water, and serve on each side the celery. It can also be cooked -plain boiled, and served with melted butter over, and also boiled in -eight tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, six of broth, and half a -teaspoonful of sugar, in which it has boiled ten minutes, or until -tender; sauce over and serve. - - -644. _Salsify._--I do not know why this vegetable, which is held in such -high estimation on the Continent, should be so little esteemed with us; -I will here supply their manner of cooking it, and perhaps you will give -it a fair trial. Take twelve middling-sized ones, scrape them well till -quite white, rub each with lemon and put in cold water; put into a -stewpan a quarter of a pound of beef or mutton suet, cut in small dice -one onion, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a tablespoonful of salt, and four -cloves, put on the fire and stir for five minutes, add two -tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir well, then add three pints of water, -when just boiling put in your salsify, simmer till tender; they will -take nearly one hour; dish on toast, sauce over with Dutch, maitre -d'hotel, or onion sauce, or a very good demi-glaze, or Italian sauce. -Should any remain, they may be made into fritters thus: put the sauce, -if any, in a basin, add a little salt, pepper, two spoonfuls of vinegar, -half a chopped eschalot, and a spoonful of oil, place in the salsify, -and let it remain for some hours, when ready to serve, make a small -quantity of batter, dip each piece in it, and fry for five minutes in -lard or fat, dish up with fried parsley over. - - -645. _Vegetable Marrow._--Choose eight young small ones, with smooth -skin, and put them to boil in two quarts of water, in which you have put -one ounce of salt, the same of butter, try with a needle if tender, then -dish them tastefully on mashed potatoes in a dish, put half a pint of -melted butter in a pan when near boiling, add a liaison of a yolk of an -egg, two pats of butter, a little sugar, the juice of half a lemon, -sauce over and serve; if they are rather large, cut them in two -length-wise; if in smaller pieces, take all the inside out and boil till -tender, and warm in the above sauce. You can also make a nice -demi-glaze, as No. 132, and let them simmer in it for twenty minutes; do -not break them, as they would then be unsightly; they can be made into -soup like cauliflower (No. 207). - - -646. _Cauliflower and Broccoli._--Be very particular in cleaning them, -choose them rather small, thick and firm, put them for one hour in salt -and water, then rinse them well in water, that all the dirt may be -removed from the interior; have a pan of boiling water, in which you -have placed two ounces of salt and one of butter, drain and use where -indicated; but if for second course, place them on a dish in the form of -a dome, and cover over with some sauce as for vegetable marrow or plain -melted butter, or Soubise sauce if preferred plain; serve it very hot, -having drained it. - - -647. _The same gratine with Cheese._--Put into a stewpan ten spoonfuls -of white sauce, No. 130, with a little chopped onions, which boil for a -few minutes, add to it a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan, or any -mild English cheese; when boiling, add the yolk of one egg, and a little -cayenne, mix quick, lay a little on a dish, put two or three heads of -cauliflower or broccoli on it, pour the remainder of sauce over, and a -little bread-crumbs and grated cheese; put in oven half an hour, give -it a nice yellow color, and serve; if no white sauce, use melted butter, -but do not boil it so long, or it will eat rather greasy. - - -648. _Jerusalem Artichokes._--One of the best and most useful vegetables -ever introduced to table, and anything but appreciated as it deserves to -be. To prove to you that I am a great admirer of it, you will find it -very often mentioned in my receipts. In using them for a second course, -I choose about twelve of the same size, peel them and shape them like a -pear, but flat at the bottom, wash them well, boil gently in three pints -of water, one ounce of salt, one of butter, and a few sliced onions; -when tender, I make a border of mashed potatoes on a dish, fix them on -it point upwards, sauce over with either cream sauce (No. 280), white -sauce (No. 130), melted butter (No. 264), maitre d'hotel, and place a -fine Brussels sprout between each, which contrast is exceedingly -inviting, simple, and pretty. - - -649. _Cucumbers_ are most delicious stuffed and stewed, but very -difficult to dress, and consequently chiefly used for entrees, in which -series they will be found. They may, however, be treated like vegetable -marrow. - - -650. _Artichokes._--Pull the tail off four or six small artichokes, trim -the bottom slightly with a knife, cut the point of every leaf, wash well -in plain water, put them on in plenty of water, with a little salt, to -boil, let them thus remain about half an hour, or until the leaves are -easy to be removed, take them out and lay on a sieve to drain, and serve -on a napkin, with melted butter separate. - - -651. _Beet-root._--This is a very good dish, and, as I believe it has -never been noticed in cookery, I must lay claim to its parentage; I have -given the receipt to some friends, who highly approve of it. Take two -nice young boiled beet-roots, which will take about from two to three -hours to simmer in plenty of boiling water, peel when cold, cut in -slanting direction, so as to make oval pieces, peel and cut in small -dice two middling-sized onions, put in a pan, with two ounces of -butter, fry white, stirring continually with a spoon; add a spoonful of -flour, and enough milk to make a nice thickish sauce, add to it three -saltspoonfuls of salt, four of sugar, one of pepper, a spoonful of good -vinegar, and boil a few minutes; put in the slices to simmer for about -twenty minutes, have ready some mashed potatoes, with which make a neat -border in your dish one inch high, then put the beet-root and sauce, -highly season in the centre, and serve. - - -652. _French Beans._--These are also a great favorite with many. To -dress it, head and tail them, drawing off the back string, cut in long -diamonds, boil till tender in water in which salt has been placed, a -quarter of a pound to a gallon, try them after a quarter of an hour's -boiling, drain them, lay them on a dish one inch thick, sprinkle with a -little salt, pepper, and two pats of butter, then put in the remainder, -proceed the same at top; serve very quickly, to prevent the butter -oiling. - - -653. _The same, a la Maitre d'Hotel._--When boiled as above, put in a -stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of maitre d'hotel butter, when melted -serve. They may be also served with white sauce thus: put in a stewpan -eight spoonfuls of melted butter, season well, simmer gently, add the -yolk of an egg, two ounces of butter, juice of half a lemon, and serve. - - -654. _Kidney Beans._--Head and tail them, string and slit them down the -middle, place them for half an hour in salt and water in which you have -thrown a little culinary alkali, boil until tender, and serve with -melted butter, or a la maitre d'hotel. - - -655. _Broad or Windsor Beans._--Boil in salt and water: when done, serve -with parsley and butter, or with a piece of bacon. - - -656. _Brussels Sprouts._--Trim, wash, and boil about forty small -Brussels sprouts; when tender, drain, dish, and sprinkle a little salt, -pepper, and two ounces of butter over, and serve. Serve also in sauce, -or with maitre d'hotel, like French beans. These are also very good for -soups, sauces, or garnish. - - -657. _Spinach._--This vegetable is very light and very good for -invalids. It must be washed in several waters, after having been well -picked; then put a quarter of a sieve of spinach to a gallon of water -and three ounces of salt, boil for ten minutes till tender, drain on -sieve, press a little with your hands to extract part of the water, chop -it up fine, put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a -teaspoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, put on a fire with a drop of -warm broth for a few minutes, and serve. - - -658. _Spinach with Gravy._--Proceed as before, but add a tablespoonful -of flour and half a pint of strong gravy in it, as No. 177; serve with -sippets of bread round. - - -659. _Spinach with Cream._--Proceed as before, but putting half a pint -of milk or cream instead of gravy, and the addition of a tablespoonful -of sugar, cut three slices of bread, lay on dish, sift sugar over, put -in oven, salamander over, cut in various shapes, and serve under or over -the spinach. - - -660. _Young Haricot Beans._--Take a pint, boil in two quarts of water, -with a small piece of butter, and half an ounce of salt; when done, -which will take only a few minutes, dish and serve; put butter over, -sprinkle a little salt, and when on the dish, a gill of maitre d'hotel -sauce or fennel sauce may be served over the larger one, or it is very -delicious plain boiled, and with a piece of ham or bacon. - - -661. _White Haricot Beans._--Nothing so cheap or so solid a food as -haricot beans; get a pint of fine white beans, called the dwarf--I buy -them for fourpence a quart. I put them into half a gallon of cold soft -water, with one ounce of butter; they take about three hours to cook, -and should simmer very slowly, drain them and put into a stewpan with a -little salt, pepper, chopped parsley, two ounces of butter, and the -juice of a lemon, place on the fire for a few minutes, stir well, and -serve. The water in which it is boiled will not make a bad soup by -frying four onions in butter in a stewpan, adding a little flour, then -the water poured over, and a slice of toasted bread, cut in pieces, and -served in a tureen. Should the water in boiling reduce too fast, add a -little more. They may be dressed for second course, a la Bretonne, as -for leg. The longer sort requires to be soaked a few hours before -boiling. - - -662. _Mushrooms._--These are good every way when fresh; for a dish take -about fifty button, cut the roots off, wash and rub the skin off with a -cloth, cut them in slices the size of a shilling, tail and all, put them -in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a small teaspoonful of salt, -two pinches of pepper, and the juice of half a lemon, put them on the -fire, simmer till tender, and dish them up on a nice crisp toast; should -you require any sauce, add, when nearly done, half a spoonful of flour, -a gill of broth, milk, or cream, or even water, stew a few minutes -longer, pour over toast and serve. - -_If very large_, they should have been carefully picked, for if the dirt -should have got into the under part it is difficult to remove it; cut -off the end of the tail and peel the top, put them on a gridiron, season -moderately with salt and pepper, turn them, and when done serve them on -a very hot dish, and put on each a piece of butter the size of a nut, -and a squeeze of a lemon, put in a hot oven for a minute, or before the -fire, and serve; a little Harvey's or Soyer's sauce is an improvement. -They may also be put in an oven, by laying them in a saute-pan or tin -dish, put a little butter and season over each, and a drop of Harvey's -sauce, and let them remain twenty minutes, and serve with gravy over. - - -663. _Lentils._--Put into a stewpan one quart, add two quarts of cold -water, one ounce of butter, a little salt, one onion sliced, a bouquet -of parsley, set on the fire, simmer till tender, which may be in two -hours; when done, drain in a sieve, and save the liquor, which can be -made into a soup like the haricots (see receipt No. 661); put the -lentils in a stewpan, with two ounces of butter, a little salt, sugar, -pepper, and a tablespoonful of chopped eschalots, set it on the fire, -put in butter and flour, mix well, boil ten minutes gently, and dish in -a border of potatoes or in a deep dish. It may also be done thus: by -frying till brown one onion, sliced in a stewpan, put in the boiled -lentils, with two ounces of butter, a little flour, a gill of gravy, and -season as above, stir well, boil, and serve hot. - -Gabanza or Egyptian bean may be cooked in the same way. - - -664. _English Truffles._--Put twelve of them to soak for four hours in -lukewarm water; then with a hard hair-brush remove all the earth from -them; then wash again, put them into a stewpan, with a few slices of -bacon, two onions, half a head of celery, half a carrot, a clove of -garlic, two bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, four of parsley, a teaspoonful -of salt, one of sugar, a half of pepper, two glasses of sherry, and a -pint of broth; let them simmer for half an hour or more, but till -tender; place them in the oven for twenty minutes longer, remove the -truffles and place them on a dish; have a little mashed potatoes, and -make a border, and place the truffles on in pyramid to prevent them -moving, strain the gravy they were in, skim off the fat, reduce it to -about a gill, put in a teaspoonful of arrow-root in a cup, with a -spoonful of water, mix it, and put to the gravy, boil a few minutes, -pour over, and serve. - -I peeled some of them, cooked the same way, they eat better; but they -did not look so well. - - -665. _Saute of the same._--After having washed them, I peel them and cut -into thin slices, and put about one pound of them into a stewpan; I then -add a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of -sugar, a quarter ditto of nutmeg, warm over the fire, add a gill of -broth, a little flour, mixed with a little butter, stir in, boil, and -serve on toast;--or proceed as above, adding a gill of demi-glaze. They -can be served with any entrees when properly done, and in all cases can -be used instead of mushrooms. - - -666. _To cook Sourcrout._--Put a quart of sourcrout, with a fat piece -of bacon or pork, into an _earthen_ pan, with sufficient water to cover -it, stew for four or five hours, and serve with pork or fried sausages; -it is better the second day. It may be procured in any good oil-shop in -the winter. - - -667. _Sourcrout, Bavarian way._--Well wash one quart of sourcrout, and -put it into an earthen pan with a quarter of a bottle of Rhenish wine or -any other light wine, and stew it for three hours; then add some veal -gravy, well seasoned, and stew for three hours longer, and serve with -sausages, or when you add the veal stock, put in a duck or a goose, and -serve with it. - - - 668. _Laver_ is a marine plant (the _Ulvoe Lactuca_), which is - obtained, in London, from the West of England; in Dublin, from - Malahide; Edinburgh, from Aberdeen. It is merely washed, boiled, - pulped, and potted by the fishermen's wives. It is considered - wholesome, but I see nothing particular in it that can make it so - unless it is the small quantity of iodine that it contains. It - should be dressed like spinach (No. 658), and sent up very hot in a - dish over a spirit-lamp, and is generally served with mutton. The - following is a new plan I have introduced for cooking it, which has - been liked by those persons who formerly disliked it. - -Have some mashed potatoes as No. 672, roll it out the thickness of a -quarter of an inch, cover it with some cold stewed laver nicely -seasoned, put another layer of mashed potatoes over, and allow it to get -quite cold, when cut it in square pieces, egg, bread-crumb, and proceed -as for ramifolles. - - - POTATOES.--This root still bears its original American name, - signifying earth-apple, and is divided into many species. Amongst - those most common in use are the regent, ash-leaf, kidney; but, in - the sister kingdom, Ireland, many other varieties are in use; as - the lumper, reds, and blacks. There are as many different ways of - cooking them as there are different species, which I will now - describe. - - -669. _Plain Boiled or Steamed Potatoes._--Well wash the potatoes and -peel them, and throw them into cold water (that depends upon the kind, -if new or young, or a kidney, they should be cooked immediately after -they are peeled, whilst others require to remain a long time in soak); -have ready a steamer with boiling water in it, put the potatoes on the -top, and steam for twenty to thirty minutes, and serve. Should you not -have a steamer, and are obliged to boil them, do so by putting them into -plenty of boiling water, and boil till tender or breaking, then pour -them out into a colander, put a cloth over them, and put them in the -screen, or before the fire, until you are ready to serve them; they -ought always to be sent to table very hot. - - -670. _Baked Potatoes._--This is a very favorite dish with many persons; -they ought to be of a large size, called Regents, and when cooked very -floury. Mr. B. tells me he sometimes lunches at a house in the city -where the proprietor grows that sort in particular for the use of his -customers, and he finds them better if he leaves them in the ground -where they grow until wanted, and he has about three days' consumption -taken up at a time. They are merely well washed, and put into a slow -oven for about thirty minutes, or longer if large, and served with a pat -of butter in a plate. - - -671. _Fried Potatoes._--The long kidney potato is the best for this -purpose; they should be washed and peeled, and cut into very thin -slices, and thrown into boiling fat until a nice light brown color; dish -up very hot, throwing a little salt over. The remains of cold ones may -be cut into slices and fried in the same way, or they may be dipped into -batter, and fried like fritters. - - -672. _Mashed Potatoes._--Steam about ten fine potatoes for about -thirty-five minutes, put them into a stewpan or bowl, with two ounces of -butter, one teaspoonful of salt, a smaller spoonful of pepper, and half -a pint of milk, and beat them very well up with a large fork, then add -by degrees a gill of milk, and continue beating, and dish them lightly -on a dish. Should you require to keep them warm, do so in a stewpan. I -do not approve of putting them into moulds and then in the oven, as it -makes them heavy. - - -673. _Potatoes a la Maitre d'Hotel._--With young potatoes they are -excellent. Boil ten middle-sized ones cut in slices of a quarter of an -inch thick, put in the stewpan half a pint of milk or the same of broth, -a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of fresh -chopped parsley, then simmer on fire; when boiling, add a quarter of a -pound of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, stir well for a few -minutes; when each piece is well covered with the sauce, dish up, and -high in the centre, as they must appear light. - - -674. _Lyonnaise._--The remains of cold potatoes may be used thus:--Put -three ounces of butter in an omelette pan, in which you fry rather white -three sliced onions; put on the potatoes, cut in thin slices about the -size of half a crown, and saute them now and then until they have a nice -yellow color; add a spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the -juice of a lemon, saute well that it should mix well together, dish and -serve very hot; they are excellent to serve with chop, steak, or any -joint. - - -675. _Irish way of boiling._--In Ireland, where this root has been for -so long a period the chief nourishment of the people, and where it takes -the place of bread and other more substantial food, it is cooked so that -it may have, as they call it, a bone in it; that is, that the middle of -it should not be quite cooked. They are done thus:--Put a gallon of -water with two ounces of salt, in a large iron pot, boil for about ten -minutes, or until the skin is loose, pour the water out of the pot, put -a dry cloth on the top of the potatoes, and place it on the side of the -fire without water for about twenty minutes, and serve. In Ireland turf -is the principal article of fuel, which is burnt on the flat hearth; a -little of it is generally scraped up round the pot so as to keep a -gradual heat, by this plan the potato is both boiled and baked. Even in -those families where such a common art of civilized life as cooking -ought to have made some progress, the only improvement they have upon -this plan is, that they leave the potatoes in the dry pot longer, by -which they lose the _bone_. They are always served up with the skins on, -and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest. - - -676. _To blanch Macaroni._--Have half a gallon of water in a stewpan, in -which put two ounces of butter and an ounce of salt; when boiling, -throw in a pound of macaroni, which boil until tender, being careful -that it is not too much done; the time of boiling depends principally -upon the quality, the Genoa macaroni taking the longest time, and the -Neapolitan the shortest, which last, if too much done, will fall in -puree. - - -677. _Macaroni a l'Italienne._--Boil half a pound of macaroni as above; -when done, lay it on a sieve to dry for one minute, put it in a pan, -with four spoonfuls of white sauce, add half a teaspoonful of salt, a -quarter ditto of pepper, a little cayenne, toss the macaroni over the -fire; when boiling, add two ounces each of grated Parmesan and Gruyere -cheese, toss round and round until well mixed, then serve with a gill of -very strong gravy around it. - - -678. _Macaroni au Gratin._--Proceed the same as above; but after you -have put the macaroni on the dish, omit the gravy, and cover it slightly -with bread-crumbs, and about the same quantity of Parmesan cheese -grated, a little butter, and then put in a hot oven for a quarter of an -hour; if not hot enough, pass the salamander over it, and serve very -hot. - - -679. _Macaroni a la Napolitaine._--Boil half a pound of the best quality -of macaroni for half an hour, as at No. 736; when tender, lay one -quarter of it on the dish you intend to serve; have ready two ounces of -grated Parmesan cheese, which you divide into four parts to lay over -each layer of macaroni, then put over it two tablespoonfuls of strong -gravy, made of half glaze and consomme, put the dish in the oven for ten -minutes, and serve very hot. - - -680. _The real Italian method (called a l'Estoufade)._--Boil and proceed -as before, but make the gravy as follows, and use it instead of the -preceding. Take two pounds of rump of beef larded through, put in a -small stewpan, with one quarter of a pound of butter, fry gently for one -hour, turning almost continually; when forming a glaze add half a pint -of broth, let simmer another hour, take the fat off, and use that gravy -instead of that above described; a little tomato may be introduced if -handy, serve the beef at the same time in a separate dish. - - -681. _Fried Mashed Potatoes in various shapes._--Roast twelve fine -potatoes; when done, take out the interior, which form into a ball; when -cold, put them into a mortar, with a piece of butter half the size of -the ball; pound them well together, season with a little salt, pepper, -chopped eschalots, chopped parsley, and grated nutmeg, mix them with the -yolks of six, and two whole eggs; then form them into croquettes about -the size and shape of a small egg, and bread-crumb them twice over, and -fry them to a light brown color in a stewpan of hot lard, and serve as -garniture where required. - - -682. _To boil Rice._--Wash well in two separate waters a pound of the -best Carolina rice, then have two quarts of water _boiling_ in a -stewpan, into which throw your rice, boil it until three parts done, -then drain it on a sieve; butter the interior of a stewpan, in which put -your rice, place the lid on tight, and put it in a warm oven upon a -trivet until the rice is perfectly tender, or by the side of the fire; -serve it separate with curry, or any other dish where required. Prepared -thus, every grain will be separate and quite white. - - -683. _Chopping of Herbs, &c._--This may appear a very simple thing to do -well, yet it is often done badly, by which the flavor is lost. They -should be well washed and dried, and then take the leaves in the left -hand, pressing upon the leaves with your fingers, and chop as fine as -possible, not by placing the point of the knife on the board and raising -it and letting it fall, but with a good sharp cut, so that they are cut, -not pressed. Onions should be peeled, and cut in halves lengthwise, and -then with a thin knife cut each half in slices, leaving them joined at -the root; again cut into slices contrarywise, and then from top to -bottom; thus having cut into very small squares, chop it with both hands -with the knife. You may also wash them; when half-chopped press them in -a cloth, and chop them still finer. - - - - -OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY. - - - The variety of pastes is to the pastry what first stocks are to - soups and sauces, and must be very properly first described, - particularly as it is here I must refer my readers for paste even - used for the hors-d'oeuvre and entrees; to succeed you must be - particular in your proportions, and very careful in the mixing; - for, although there is nothing more simple if pains be taken, so - will the least neglect produce a failure, nor is it only with the - making of the paste that pains must be taken, but likewise with the - baking, for as paste badly made would not improve in baking, - neither will paste, however well made, be good if badly baked; - should the oven be too hot the paste will become set and burn - before it is done; and, again, if too cold it would give the paste - a dull heavy appearance, but an oven properly heated (which can be - readily known by a little attention on the part of those in the - habit of using it) will give it a clear brilliant appearance. - - For every description of pastry made from puff paste, try if the - oven is hot by placing your hand about half-way in, and hold it - there about a quarter of a minute, if you can hold it there that - time without inconvenience it would not be hot enough; but if you - cannot judge of the heat, the safest method would be, try a piece - of the paste previous to baking the whole; I apply these few - observations to all my friends, but particularly to the - uninstructed, as a person of continual practice cannot fail to be - aware of the truth of them. - - -684. _Puff Paste._--Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab, make a -hole in the centre, in which put the yolk of one egg and the juice of a -lemon, with a pinch of salt, mix it with cold water (iced in summer, if -convenient) into a softish flexible paste, with the right hand dry it -off a little with flour until you have well cleared the paste from the -slab, but do not work it more than you can possibly help, let remain two -minutes upon the slab; then have a pound of fresh butter from which you -have squeezed all the buttermilk in a cloth, bringing it to the same -consistency as the paste, upon which place it; press it out with the -hand, then fold over the edges of the paste so as to hide the butter, -and roll it with the rolling-pin to the thickness of a quarter of an -inch, thus making it about two feet in length, fold over one third, over -which again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus -forming a square, place it with the ends top and bottom before you, -shaking a little flour both under and over, and repeat the rolls and -turns twice again as before; flour a baking-sheet, upon which lay it, -upon ice or in some cool place (but in summer it would be almost -impossible to make this paste well without ice) for half an hour; then -roll twice more, turning it as before, place again upon the ice a -quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven in all, and it -is ready for use when required, rolling it whatever thickness (according -to what you intend making) directed in the following receipts. When I -state that upwards of a hundred different kinds of cakes may be made -from this paste, I am sure it will be quite sufficient to urge upon -every cook the necessity of paying every attention to its fabrication, -as it will repay for the study and trouble. - - -685. _Puff Paste, with Beef Suet._--Where you cannot obtain good butter -for making paste, the following is an excellent substitute; skin and -chop one pound of kidney beef suet very fine, put it into a mortar and -pound it well, moistening with a little oil, until becoming as it were -one piece, and about the consistency of butter, proceed exactly as in -the last, using it instead of butter. - - -686. _Half Puff Paste._--Put one pound of flour upon your pastry slab, -with two ounces of butter, rub well together with the hands, make a hole -in the centre, in which put a pinch of salt and the yolk of an egg with -the juice of a lemon; mix with water as before, then roll it out thin -and lay half a pound of butter (prepared as for puff paste) rolled into -thin sheets over, fold it in three, roll and fold again twice over, lay -it in a cold place a quarter of an hour, give another roll, and it is -ready for use where required; this paste is mostly used for fruit tarts, -for which it is well adapted. - - -687. _Short Paste, or Pate a foncer._--Put a pound of best flour upon -your pastry slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put an ounce of -salt, half a pound of fresh butter, and sufficient water to form a stiff -paste, mix well together, and it is ready for use where directed. - - -688. _Short Paste for Fruit Tarts._--Put a pound of flour upon your -pastry slab with six ounces of butter, and rub them well together; then -make a hole in the centre, in which put two ounces of powdered sugar, -two whole eggs, and a large wineglassful of water, mix the eggs, sugar, -and water well, then drown in the flour and mix together, and work it -lightly. - - -689. _Pate d'Office, or Confectioner's Paste._--Weigh half a pound of -flour, which put upon your slab, make a hole in the centre, in which put -six ounces of sifted sugar, mix it well with four eggs into a stiffish -paste, having first well dissolved the sugar with the eggs, work it -well, it is then ready for use. - -This paste was very much used when pieces montes were so much in vogue, -but in the several receipts in which it is referred to, it is used upon -quite a new principle, and very much simplified; this paste, with the -above proportions, ought to be very stiff, but still pliable enough to -be worked without breaking; should it be too stiff add more eggs, or too -soft more flour; the half or quarter of the above quantity may of course -be made. - - -690. _Vols-au-Vent_ of all things in pastry require the most care and -precision; they that can make a good vol-au-vent may be stamped as good -pastrycooks, although many variations in working puff paste, all others -are of secondary importance. Make a pound of puff paste, giving it seven -rolls and a half, leave it an inch in thickness, make a mark upon the -top either round or oval, and according to the size of your dish; then, -with a sharp-pointed knife, cut it out from the paste, holding the knife -with the point slanting outwards; turn it over, mark the edges with the -back of your knife, and place it upon a baking-sheet, which you have -sprinkled with water; egg over the top, then dip the point of the knife -into hot water, and cut a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch deep, -and half an inch from the edge of the vol-au-vent, set in a rather hot -oven, if getting too much color, cover over with a sheet of paper, do -not take it out before done, or it would fall, but when quite set, cut -off the lid, and empty it with a knife; be careful to make no hole in -the side or bottom; if for first course it is ready, but if for second -sift sugar all over, which glaze with the salamander. Regulate the -thickness of the paste from which you cut the vol-au-vent, according to -the size you require it, the smaller ones of course requiring thinner -paste. A vol-au-vent for entrees will take about half an hour to bake, -and as the common iron ovens often throw out more heat upon one side -than the other, it will require turning two or three times to cause it -to rise equal; it ought to be when baked of a light gold color. - - -691. _Vol-au-Vent of Peaches._--Put half a pound of sugar in a -sugar-pan, with the juice of a lemon and about half a pint of water, -place it upon the fire and boil till becoming a thickish syrup; then -have eight peaches not quite ripe, which cut in halves, break their -stones and blanch the kernels, throw six halves with the kernels into -the syrup, boil three minutes, take them out with a skimmer, lay them -upon a dish and take off their skins, stew the rest in syrup in like -manner, four at a time; when all done pour what liquor runs from them -again into the syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, pass it through -a tammy into a basin, when cold pour a little over the peaches and leave -until ready to serve; dress the peaches in your vol-au-vent with the -syrup over. This is a receipt I learnt in France, where I got peaches -for a sou each. - - -692. _Vol-au-Vent with Fruit._--These are generally used for the second -course, and do not require to be so high as the other, especially as the -fruit ought to be dressed in the form of a pyramid, if they are cut -about three quarters of an inch in thickness it will be enough; when -nearly done, sift some powdered sugar over them, and put it back in the -oven to glaze well, if not hot enough use the salamander; remove the -interior, taking care not to make a hole in the bottom or sides, and -fill with any kind of fruit you like, but never mix two kinds together, -except currant and raspberry. - - -693. _Sweet Vol-au-Vent with Rhubarb._--In the spring of the year, this -makes a very inviting and wholesome dish, and its qualities purify the -blood, which the winter's food has rendered gross; cut about twelve -sticks of rhubarb into lengths of one inch, put it in a stewpan holding -about two quarts, put over it a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a -tablespoonful of water, set it on a sharp fire, stirring it, do not let -it get brown, or it would spoil and lose its flavor; it will take but a -few minutes to do; when tender, put it in a basin to cool; a few minutes -before serving, fill the vol-au-vent with it, and serve cold. - - -694. _Ditto, with green Gooseberries._--A quart of green gooseberries, a -quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and a -tablespoonful of water, put on the fire and move it about for ten -minutes, or till tender, and forming a thick green marmalade, put it in -a basin till cold, serve in pyramid in the vol-au-vent; a little thick -syrup, if handy, poured over, improves the appearance. - - -695. _Ditto, with Orange._--Well peel six oranges, removing all the -pith, divide each into six or eight pieces, put them in a pan, with a -quarter of a pound of sugar, and the juice of one orange, set it on a -slow fire, with the cover on, stir it now and then; ten minutes will be -sufficient time for it, take out the pieces one after the other, lay -them in a basin, reduce your syrup to a proper thickness, when ready to -serve, dish your pieces of orange in it, and pour over the syrup. - - -696. _Another method._--Make a thick syrup with half a pound of sugar, -put in your pieces by a dozen at a time, just give them a boiling, -remove them on a sieve, then add the other pieces, when all done, add -the juice, which pass through a sieve, and back again to the pan, boil -till a proper thickness, dish up and serve the syrup over. - - -697. _Ditto, a still plainer method._--Have the pieces of orange ready, -and put in a stewpan a quarter of a pound of sugar, a wineglass of -brandy or rum, stir it well a few minutes, and serve with the liquor -poured over. - - -698. _Ditto, with Cherries._--Stone one pound of cherries, and put in a -pan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, stew for five minutes, -take them down, drain, then reduce the syrup till thick, and pour over -at the moment of serving. - - -699. _Ditto, with Strawberries._--Pick two pottles of very fresh -strawberries, not too ripe, put them in with two ounces of powdered -sugar, a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, toss them gently in a basin, -and serve immediately in your vol-au-vent. - - -700. _Ditto, with Apples._--This fruit being procurable all the year -renders it one of very great convenience; Ripstone pippins are the best: -cut in four, peel them, put a pint of syrup, when boiling, put in your -apples, with the peel of half a lemon, and the juice of a whole one, let -simmer till tender, put it in a basin, boil the syrup to a white jelly, -let it stand till cold, put the apple in the vol-au-vent, and pour the -syrup (cold) or jelly over; serve a few ornaments made with very green -angelica. - - -701. _Another method._--Cut any kind of apple, rather thin, put over a -quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, the rind of a lemon chopped, the -juice of the same, one ounce of butter, and a glass of sherry, put on -the fire, toss till tender, but keep it very white, put it in a basin, -when cold dish in your vol-au-vent; whip a gill of good cream, add ten -drops of orange-flower water in it, cover over carefully and serve. - -Apple saute with butter, in this way may be served hot in the -vol-au-vent. Any kind of plums or apricots, when plentiful, may be done -the same as cherries, and served the same way. - - -702. _Little Fruit Rissolettes._--I also make with the trimmings of puff -paste the following little cakes: if you have about a quarter of a pound -of puff paste left, roll it out very thin, about the thickness of half a -crown, put half a spoonful of any marmalade on it, about one inch -distance from each other, wet lightly round them with a paste-brush, and -place a piece of paste over all, take a cutter of the size of a crown -piece, and press round the part where the marmalade or jam is, with the -thick part of the cutter, to make the paste stick, then cut them out -with one a size larger, lay them on a baking-tin, egg over, then cut a -little ring in paste, the size of a shilling, put it on them, egg over -again, place in a nice hot oven for twenty minutes, then sugar over with -finely sifted sugar, so as to make it quite white all over, then put -back into the oven to glaze: should the oven not be sufficiently hot, -take a salamander, or, for the want of one, a red-hot shovel, full of -live coals, may be used; serve in the form of a pyramid. A little -currant jelly in the ring looks well. - - -703. _Flanc of Fruit._--This requires a mould the same as No. 602; it -must be well wiped with a cloth, butter it, then take the remains of -puff paste, and roll it well so as to deaden it, then roll it out a size -larger than your mould, and about a quarter of an inch thick, place your -mould on a baking-tin, put the paste carefully in the mould and shape it -well, to obtain all the form of the mould, without making a hole in it; -put a piece of paper at the bottom, fill with flour to the top, and bake -a nice color; it will take about half an hour, then take out the flour -and paper, open the mould, and fill it. - - -704. _Flancs_, with any kind of fruit, like a vol-au-vent, are more -easily made, and are equally as good a side dish. This may be made of -half-puff or short paste, and fill with raw cherries and some pounded -sugar over: bake together. Greengages, apricots, or any kind of plums, -will require a hotter oven than for flour only in it, the fruit giving -moisture to the paste; if baked in a slow oven will be heavy, and -consequently indigestible. - - -705. _Another._--If you have no mould, make a quarter of a pound of -paste (No. 688), roll it round or oval to your fancy, a quarter of an -inch thick, wet the edge all round about half an inch, raise that part -and pinch it round with your thumbs and fingers, making a border all -round, put on a baking-sheet, fill with fruit one row, if large two; -remove the stones, and sift sugar over according to the acidity of the -fruit; it will take less time, too, than if in a mould: you see what -variation can be made with very little trouble or expense. - - -706. _Flanc of Apples._--I just perceive that I had forgot to give you a -few receipts in this way of cake, which I make very pretty when we have -a party. Take eight Ripstone pippins, cut in four, peel a nice shape, -rub with lemon, put half a pound of sugar in a pan, cover with cold -water, juice of a lemon; boil till rather thick, then add half the -apples, simmer till tender, put them on a plate, do the remainder the -same way, reduce the syrup a little, put the apples in a basin, pour -syrup over: when cold, dish in pyramid in the crust, which you have -prepared as No. 703, pour over the syrup, which should be a jelly. I -often cut in fine strips the rind of a lemon or orange, boil with the -apples, and ornament also with pieces of young angelica preserved, cut -in diamond, placing a piece between each apple. Flancs of pears may be -made precisely the same way, but with good ripe eating pears cut in two -lengthwise, leaving the stalk cut in half. - - -707. _A plainer way._--Peel and cut eight apples in thin slices in a -pan, with two ounces of pounded sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, -the rind well chopped, put on fire, stir till forming a thick marmalade, -and tender, melt a little currant jelly, pour over and serve. - - -708. _Small Fruit Tarts._--The next in order to sweet vol-au-vents, and -which are easier to make, are tartlets, their appearance being inviting, -and their expense limited, and very easy to serve. They may be made from -the trimmings of any puff paste which remains, should be enveloped in -paper, and kept in a cold place, or in the flour tub. Make them as -follows:--Have ready twelve or more small tartlet pans, which butter, -line each with a bit of puff paste cut with a cutter the size of a crown -piece, force up the edges with your thumb and finger, put a small ball -(made of flour and water) in each, bake them nicely in a very hot oven; -when done take out the ball (which may be kept for other occasions), the -tartlets, and shake powdered sugar over the bottom of each, and glaze -with a salamander, turn them over, and shake sugar in the interior, -which also salamander; fill with any kind of preserve, marmalade, or -fruit, for sweet vol-au-vents. They may be made with cream as -follows:--Make your tartlets as before, placing cream instead of the -ball of flour, made thus: put half a pint of milk in a stewpan, when -boiling, add half a stick of vanilla, reduce the milk to half in another -stewpan, have the yolks of two eggs and a quarter of an ounce of -powdered sugar, and one ounce of sifted flour, with a grain of salt, -pour in the milk, taking out the vanilla, place over a slow fire, keep -stirring till it thickens; when cold, fill the tartlets, and bake nicely -in a moderate oven; when cold, add a little jam, have ready a meringue -of four eggs (see No. 711), lay a teaspoonful of each upon them, -spreading it quite flat with a knife, ornament the top with some of the -mixture, put into a paper cornet, sift sugar over, place in a slow oven -till a light brown color, and the meringue quite crisp; if the oven is -too hot, cover with a sheet of paper, dress, and serve in pyramid upon -your dish. They ought to be of a light color. - - -709. _Rissole Fourree._--This is made as the rissole for entrees; it is -a very simple receipt, and I vary it continually without the slightest -difficulty; instead of making it with orange I substitute apricot -marmalade, apple, raspberry, strawberry, or greengage jam; but no jelly, -as currant or apple, as it would run through the paste and look bad. To -vary the appearance at table, instead of egging, dust them lightly over -with some coarse powdered sifted sugar, then bake them white instead of -brown; if the oven is too hot cover with a sheet of paper, put a little -marmalade or jam in a ring which you have selected, and serve. By -blanching and chopping a few pistachios, and mixing with the sugar, -makes them look very inviting, or even chopped sweet almonds changes the -flavor; they may also be filled with any preparation of cream, rice, or -vermicelli, prepared as for croquets. I also change them by sauteing, as -they are much quicker done, and make a very nice dish. To remove the -roast of the second course, I put six at a time in the saute-pan (see -page 62), which must be hot, and saute a few minutes until a nice pale -yellow color, serve with sifted sugar over, or egg and bread-crumb; -serve very hot; if any left cold, warm in the oven. - - -710. _Flanc Meringue of Apple._--Sometimes I make a meringue of three -eggs, as No. 711; when it is hard I cover the apples with it half an -inch thick, keeping the pyramid; then I put the remainder in a paper -cornet; cut the point so that by pressing it the mixture may go out by -degrees, with which I make various designs, according to fancy, sugar -over, and put for half an hour to bake in a very slow oven; the color -ought to be pale yellow; they are equally good hot or cold. If you would -keep it quite white, bake it in a still slower oven, and give it a -quarter of an hour longer. When I do it so, I merely make dots all over, -about a quarter of an inch distant from each other, of the size of small -nuts, sugar over, and put a Corinth raisin in each knob, which gives it -a good appearance, and bake as directed; when the eggs are just set, you -may cover it with a sheet of paper, to prevent it taking too much color. - - -711. _Meringues a la Cuilleree._--Pound and sift one pound of lump -sugar, whisk the whites of twelve eggs very stiff, throw the sugar -lightly over, and with a wooden spoon stir gently, perfectly mixing the -sugar, then with a table or dessert-spoon lay them out upon white paper -in the shape of eggs, sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them remain -ten minutes, then shake off the superfluous sugar, place upon boards -which you have wetted, and put them in a slow oven, just hot enough to -cause them to be light and slightly tinged; when the outside becomes -quite crisp, take off the papers, by turning them topsy-turvy and -lifting the papers from them, dip your spoon into hot water, and with it -clear out the best part of the interior, dust them with powdered sugar, -lay them upon a baking-sheet, and put into the screen to dry; they may -be made a day or two before they are required, if put away in a dry -place; to serve, fill them with whipped cream flavored either with -vanilla or orange-flower (but do not make it too sweet), stick two -together, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and serve. Should they happen -to stick to the papers, moisten the papers with a paste-brush and water -underneath. - - -712. _Gateau Fourre._--This style of cake is exceedingly simple, and -admits of great variation. You must make a half pound of puff paste (No. -684), take one third of it and roll it out several times so as to deaden -it, then mould it round with your hands to the shape of a ball, then -roll it out flat to the thickness of half a crown, lay it on a -baking-sheet, put on it marmalade a quarter of an inch thick, reserving -about one inch all round of paste to fix the cover on, then roll out the -remainder of the paste to the same shape, it will of course be thicker, -wet the edges of the bottom and lay the cover on it, press it so that it -sticks, cut neatly round the edges, and make a mark with the back of a -knife about a quarter of an inch deep and half an inch apart all round, -egg over, and lightly mark any fanciful design with the point of a knife -on the cover, bake in a very hot oven for twenty minutes; when nearly -done sprinkle some sugar over and salamander, and serve cold. It may be -made with frangipane and cream and apple marmalade, and then can be -served hot. - - -713. _Dartoise Fourree._--The former one must be made in proportion to -the dish you intend to serve on, but the following is simple, and looks -as well: prepare the paste as before, but roll the bottom piece square, -put it on a baking-sheet, cover with jam, marmalade or frangipane, -leaving one inch at the edge, roll the cover the same size, wet the -edges, place it over, trim the edges, mark it down every three inches, -and then crosswise every inch; bake in hot oven, sugar over, and -salamander. When nearly cold, cut it where you have marked it; thus, a -piece twelve inches square will give you forty-eight pieces; dish as a -crown or pyramid, twelve pieces make a nice dish for a party. They may -be made of any puff paste which is left, but will not be so light as if -made on purpose; can be cut to any fanciful shape you please. - - -714. _Nougat of Apricot._--Proceed as above, but lay apricot marmalade -all over a quarter of an inch thick, blanched almonds, cut into fillets, -mixed with two ounces of sugar, and the white of an egg added to it, -bake in a moderate oven, and cut in true lozenge shapes (I do not mean -those things called lozenges, but a diamond shape), dish up on a napkin -in crown or pyramid; they ought to be of a nice transparent color. -Orange, apple, or quince marmalade may be used instead of apricot. Red -fruit preserve does not cook well. - - -715. _Crusts of Fruit._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a -saute- or frying-pan, sprinkle a little sugar over, cut four or five -slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick, three inches long, and one -and a half wide, lay in your pan; take one dozen of greengages, open -them in two, they must not be too ripe, lay the skin part on your bread, -put a pinch of sugar in each, put it in a hot oven for twenty minutes; -have ready a salamander or a hot shovel, and hold it over it for a few -minutes, dish and serve hot or cold; the oven ought to be hot enough to -give a nice yellow color to the bottom, which will eat crisp. - - -716. _Crusts with Madeira._--Cut a French penny roll lengthwise in four -or five slices, put the yolks of two eggs, with four spoonfuls of milk, -mix it in a plate, dip quickly each piece in it, and saute in a quarter -of a pound of butter which you have previously melted in a pan, leave -them on the fire until they have obtained a nice gold color on both -sides, put a spoonful of apricot marmalade in a stewpan, with two -glasses of Madeira, and place on the fire; when on the point of boiling, -pour over the bread, which you have previously put in a plate, and serve -very hot. Any preserve may be used, also any white wine; and should you -have no French rolls, any fancy roll will do, or stale brioche (No. 11) -is excellent for them. - - - 717. _Cheesecakes._--Under this head, in English Cookery Books, are - a variety of Receipts, but in fact, there is only one; the others - may all be denominated tartlets of one kind or the other, and - require but little skill on the part of the cook to vary in an - innumerable number of ways. The following is the plan in use in the - farm-houses in the midland counties; some which I have received - from Stilton, and also from Tuxford, in Nottinghamshire, are - excellent. - -Take four quarts of milk and turn it with some fresh rennet; when dry, -crumble it and sift it through a coarse sieve into a bowl, beat it well -up with a quarter of a pound of butter until it is quite smooth (it may -require a little more butter, depending on the quality of the milk); mix -in another bowl the yolks of four eggs and a quarter of a pound of very -fine sifted biscuit powder, the rind of four lemons, the juice of two, a -quarter of a pound of powdered sugar (some add a little grated nutmeg or -cinnamon), beat these all well up together until forming a stiff cream, -then put it by degrees into the bowl with curd, and mix them well -together; line some tartlet-pans, previously buttered, with some paste -(No. 686), and place some of the above mixture in, and bake quick. In -some places milk is used instead of eggs. Should you not have rennet, -procure some good milk, and turn it with the juice of a lemon or a -teaspoonful of soda or culinary alkali to a quart of milk: drain the -curd, and proceed as before. - - - 718. _Richmond Maids of Honor._--These delicious little cakes, - which every inhabitant of London who pays a visit to the most - picturesque part of its environs knows so well, derive their name - from a period when cookery was not thought to be a degrading - occupation for those honored with that title. It is stated that - they originated with the maids of honor of Queen Elizabeth, who had - a palace at Richmond. I have a little work now before me, called - 'The Queen's Delight,' in which are several receipts invented by - the wives of the first nobles of the land, which I think is an - excellent example for those housewives who honor this book by their - perusal, to imitate. They are made as follows: - -Sift half a pound of dry curd, mix it well with six ounces of good -butter, break the yolks of four eggs into another basin, and a glass of -brandy; add to it six ounces of powdered lump sugar, and beat well -together one very flowery baked potato, cold, one ounce of sweet -almonds, one ounce of bitter ditto pounded, the grated rind of three -lemons, the juice of one, and half a nutmeg grated, mix these well -together and add to the curds and butter; stir well up, and proceed as -before, filling the tartlet pans. - - -719. _Lemon Cheesecakes._--Take two large lemons, and rub the rind with -one pound of loaf sugar, so that all the yellow part is removed; place -the sugar in a basin, squeeze the juice of the lemons over, then add the -yolks of six eggs, and beat it all well up, and put it by in a jar for -use. It will keep for years. Any flavor, such as vanilla or cinnamon, -may be added, if liked, when required for use. Having made the paste and -lined the tins, mix one tablespoonful of the mixture with a teacupful of -good milk, and place a little in each tartlet. - - -720. _Sweet Omelettes._--Break six eggs in a basin, into which put a -teaspoonful of sugar, three of cream, or a few small pieces of butter; -put two ounces of butter in an omelette pan; when quite hot, pour in -the eggs and proceed as for Omelettes of Herbs, turn over on your dish, -sift some powdered sugar over, salamander, and serve. - - -721. _Omelettes of Preserved Fruits_, viz. Currant Jelly, Raspberry and -Strawberry Jam, Apricots, Peaches, Cherries, &c., are made the same as -the last, but, just before turning on your dish, put two spoonfuls of -preserves in the centre, sugar over, salamander, and serve. - - -722. _Macedoine of Omelettes._--Instead of making one with eight eggs, -make four, with two eggs each, of different kinds of preserves; serve on -the same dish, sugar over, &c., as before. - - -723. _Omelette with Rum._--The same as sweet omelette, but, the moment -of going to table, pour two glasses of rum round, and set it on the -fire. - - -724. _Beignet Souffle._--Put in a stewpan a pint of milk or water, a -teaspoonful of sugar, two ounces of butter, a few drops of essence of -vanilla, or any flavor you please; give it a boil, throw in some flour, -keep stirring all the time until it becomes quite thick and no longer -tastes of the flour and detaches itself from the pan. It will take about -half an hour, as the better it is done the lighter it is; withdraw it -from the fire, stir in six eggs, one at a time, sift about two ounces of -sugar, until the paste is of the stiffness of puff paste; have ready a -pan of hot fat, into which you drop by a spoon small pieces of paste, it -will increase their size; and when a nice color, take them out, drain, -and dish on a napkin, with sifted sugar over. - - -725. _Apple Fritters._--Mix one pound of flour with half a pint of milk -or water, then half a pound of butter melted in a stewpan, mix well -together with a wooden spoon very smooth, thin it a little with -table-beer or water, whisk the whites of three eggs very stiff, stir in -gently; have six apples, peeled, cut in slices about a quarter of an -inch thick, the cores taken out with a cutter, dip each piece in the -batter, and fry in hot lard about six minutes; to fry well, the fat -should not be too hot at first, but get hotter as it proceeds; they -should be crisp, and of a nice golden color; serve on a napkin, and sift -sugar over. - - -726. _Ditto, Peaches._--Skim and cut in halves six ripe but fine -peaches, take out the stones, have a batter prepared as the last, dip -them in, fry, and serve the same. - - -727. _Ditto, Apricots._--Cut in halves, and proceed as above, and sugar -over until quite brown. - - -728. _Ditto, Oranges._--Peel four oranges, divide them in quarters by -the thin skin, without cutting the flesh, and proceed as before. - -Any other fruit may be done in the same way, and can, if required, be -soaked in wine or brandy previously, but they do not fry so well. - - -729. _Pancake with Marmalade._--Put a quarter of a pound of sifted flour -into a basin, with four eggs, mix them together very smoothly, then add -half a pint of milk or cream, and a little grated nutmeg, put a piece of -butter in your pan (it requires but a very little), and when quite hot -put in two tablespoonfuls of the mixture, let spread all over the pan, -place it upon the fire, and when colored upon one side turn it over, -then turn it upon your cloth; proceed thus till they are all done, then -spread apricot or other marmalade all over, and roll them up neatly, lay -them upon a baking-sheet, sift sugar over, glaze nicely with the -salamander, and serve upon a napkin; the above may be served without the -marmalade, being then the common pancake. - - -730. _Apple Charlotte with Butter._--For the few following receipts, the -russet apple is the one I should recommend, it being the most suitable, -not being so watery, or falling in puree, but in case they cannot be -obtained, other sorts may be used, which will require to be more reduced -in stewing. - -Well butter the interior of a plain round mould, then cut twelve pieces -of bread the size and thickness of a shilling, dip them in clarified -butter, and lay them in a circle round the bottom of your mould; cut -also eight small pieces in the shape of diamonds, dip them in butter, -and with them form a star in the centre of the circle, cover the whole -with a round piece of bread the size of the bottom of the mould, and the -thickness of a penny-piece, cut about thirty other pieces an inch wide -and four inches in length, dip one after the other in clarified butter, -which stand upright, one half-way over the other, all round the interior -of the mould; then have ready prepared two dozen or more russet apples, -which peel and cut in slices, put them into a round stew or -preserving-pan, with three ounces of butter and half a pound of broken -lump sugar, with a little lemon-peel cut in strips, and a glass of -sherry, place them over a sharp fire, tossing over occasionally, but -keeping them together in a cake; when quite tender fill your mould -(having previously well egged and bread-crumbed the interior), place -another round piece of bread (also egged and bread-crumbed) over the -apples, and stand the mould in a hot oven until the bread becomes well -browned, take out and turn it over upon your dish, have a few spoonfuls -of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, melt it over -the fire, and when quite hot pour round the charlotte; sugar and -salamander the top if not quite crisp, and serve. You may also, for a -change, introduce a little sweetmeat of any kind in the middle of your -charlotte, and use plain pieces of bread a quarter of an inch thick, -instead of so many pieces for the sides. - - -731. _Apples with Rice._--Peel and quarter twelve good-sized apples, put -them into a preserving-pan, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, the -thin rind of a lemon in strips, the juice of another, and a wineglassful -of water, pass them over a sharp fire, and when tender lay them upon the -back of a hair sieve to drain, then put six ounces of rice into a -stewpan, with a quart of milk, place it upon the fire, stir until -boiling, then place it upon a very slow fire to simmer very gently until -quite tender, placing a little fire upon the lid, if it becomes dry -before it is tender add a little more milk; then add a quarter of a -pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, and four eggs, stir them -well in, stir over the fire until becoming again thick; when put it -upon a dish to get cold, then form a stand with it upon your dish eight -inches in diameter and three in height, but hollow in the centre, where -dress some of the apples, more rice over, then more apples, forming a -pyramid; you have previously reduced the syrup drained from the apples, -which pour over the whole, and garnish with some very green angelica, -forming any design your fancy may dictate. Apples with rice may be -served hot as well as cold. - - -732. _Pears with Rice._--Peel and cut in halves eighteen small ripe -pears, which put in a small preserving-pan, with three quarters of a -pound of sugar, a little water, and the juice of two lemons, stew them -till tender, then lay them upon a dish to cool, and mix three -tablespoonfuls of apricot marmalade with the syrup, have some rice -prepared as in the last, with which make a stand, but not quite so high, -dress the pears in a border in the interior, and again in the centre -dress the remainder of the rice in pyramid; when ready to serve pour the -syrup over, and garnish tastefully with angelica round. - - -733. _Apples with Butter._--Peel eighteen russet apples, which cut in -quarters, and trim of a nice shape, put them into a small -preserving-pan, with two ounces of butter and three quarters of a pound -of sugar, having previously rubbed the rind of an orange upon it and -pounded it, pass them over a sharp fire, moving occasionally until quite -tender, have ready buttered a plain dome mould, put the apples into it, -pressing them down a little close; when half cold turn it out of the -mould upon a dish, and cover all over with apricot marmalade; when cold -it is ready to serve. - - -734. _Apple Bread, Russian fashion._--Put one pound and a half of lump -sugar and a pint and a half of water into a round-bottomed copper -preserving-pan, place it over a sharp fire and reduce it to a crack, -have ready twenty-four good brown pippin apples peeled and cut into -slices, which put into the sugar, keeping stirred until it becomes quite -a thick marmalade, take off the fire and put it into a cylinder mould, -previously slightly oiled, shake it well down, and let it remain until -quite cold; then turn it out of the mould upon your dish; have a few -spoonfuls of currant jelly in a stewpan, which melt over the fire, add -two glasses of good old rum, and when partly cold, pour over and serve -with whipped cream in the centre, in which you have introduced a quarter -of an ounce of candied orange-flowers; if any remain, it will be -excellent to make croquettes. - - -735. _Apples saute in Butter._--Procure a dozen russet apples, which cut -into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, peel and take out the -cores with a round cutter, then put two ounces of butter in a saute-pan, -spread it over the bottom and lay in your apples, with half a pound of -powdered sugar and the juice of two lemons, stew gently over a moderate -fire; when done, dress them rather high in crown upon your dish, melt -three spoonfuls of red currant jelly in a stewpan, with which mix a -glass of Madeira wine, which pour over when ready to serve. - - -736. _Croquettes of Rice._--Well wash half a pound of the best Carolina -rice, which put into a stewpan, with a pint and a half of milk, and a -quarter of a pound of butter, place it upon the fire, stir until -boiling, then place it upon a slow fire, cover the stewpan, and let -simmer very slowly until quite tender; rub the rind of a lemon upon a -lump of sugar, weighing a quarter of a pound, pound it in a mortar quite -fine, add it to the rice, with the yolks of five eggs (mix well), stir -them a few minutes longer over the fire until the eggs thicken, but do -not let it boil, lay out upon a dish, when cold form it into a number of -small balls, or pears, or into long square pieces, according to fancy; -have three or four eggs in a basin well whisked, dip each piece in -singly, and then into a dish of bread-crumbs, smooth them gently with a -knife, dip them again into the eggs and bread-crumbs, put them into a -wire basket, which put in a stewpan of very hot lard, fry a nice light -yellow color, drain on a cloth, dress them pyramidically upon a napkin, -and serve with powdered sugar sifted over them. - - -737. _Croquettes of Macaroni._--Blanch six ounces of macaroni in two -quarts of water until tender, then strain and put it in a basin of cold -water; when cold cut it into pieces half an inch in length, and put it -into a stewpan containing a pint and a half of boiling milk, in which -you have infused a stick of vanilla, boil until it becomes thickish, add -a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of butter, and the -yolks of eight eggs, stir them well in over the fire until the eggs -thicken, then pour out upon a dish, and proceed precisely as for the -croquettes of rice. - - -738. _Pastry Cream sauted._--Put the yolks of six eggs in a stewpan, -with two good tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, mix quite smooth with a -wooden spoon; then add a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir in by -degrees, and place it over the fire, keeping stirred until it thickens, -add an ounce of butter, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of crushed -ratafias, a little orange-flower water, and three whole eggs, mix the -whole well together, and stir it a few minutes longer over the fire -until the eggs set; then pour it out upon a saute-pan, previously oiled, -and when quite cold cut it into pieces one inch wide and two and a half -long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs twice over, the same as for -croquettes, saute them in the same manner, dress upon a napkin as high -as you can, with sifted sugar over, they may be flavored also with -vanilla or lemon. They may be varied in shape according to fancy. - - - - -JELLIES. - - - Nothing, I am confident, will give you more pleasure than trying - the receipts which I am now about giving you; they are for jellies, - that is, those made from gelatinous substances of animal - production. They are the most wholesome productions of cookery, and - are slightly nourishing and fortifying without being exciting. You - will find the receipts as simple as possible; and you will perceive - that, when you have made the foundation stock to perfection, they - may be varied in twenty or more different ways, by changing the - flavor, fruits, or colors. - - -739. _Jelly Stock_, made from calf's feet, requires to be made the day -previous to being used. Take two calf's feet, cut them up, and boil in -three quarts of water; as soon as it boils remove it to the corner of -the fire, and simmer for five hours, keeping it skimmed, pass through a -hair sieve into a basin, and let it remain until quite hard, then remove -the oil and fat, and wipe the top dry. Place in a stewpan one gill of -water, one of sherry, half a pound of lump sugar, the juice of four -lemons, the rinds of two, and the whites and shells of five eggs, whisk -until the sugar is melted, then add the jelly, place it on the fire, and -whisk until boiling, pass it through a jelly-bag, pouring that back -again which comes through first until quite clear; it is then ready for -use, by putting it in moulds or glasses. - - -740. _Gelatine and Isinglass Jelly_ is made as above, using one ounce -and a half of either, and boil in one quart of water, reduce to half; if -not required very clear, as for lemon jelly, it need not be run through -a bag, but merely through a fine sieve. - - -741. _Hartshorn Jelly._--Use half a pound of hartshorn shavings, boil in -three quarts of water, and reduce to one; proceed as before. Also -Arney's jelly powder can be used instead of any of the above, by -dissolving in boiling water. - - -742. _Gold or Silver Jelly_, or both mixed, is made with eau de vie de -Dantzic, mixing the gold or silver leaves with a little jelly, -ornamenting the bottom of the mould with it, which place in ice till -set, fill with very clear calf's foot jelly. It can also be made by -cutting up a quarter of a sheet of gold leaf in a glass of pale brandy, -and use as the former. - - -743. _Maresquino Jelly_ is made by mixing six liqueur-glasses of -maresquino with a quart of clarified calf's foot jelly; peaches or other -fruits cut in quarters may be added. - - -744. _Rum-Punch, Curacoa, Noyeau_, are made with the same quantity, and -as the former. - - -745. _French Jellies_ may be made with all kinds of fresh fruits, -filling the mould by degrees, the jelly first, let it set, then the -fruit, and so on till full, the mould being buried in ice; when ready to -serve dip in hot water, mix it well, and turn out carefully on your -dish. In the winter, preserved fruits in syrup may be used, decorating -the mould with them, pouring in a little jelly at a time until it is -cold, and fill up by degrees; proceed as above. - - -746. _Orange Jelly._--Procure five oranges and one lemon, take the rind -off two of the oranges, and half of the lemon, and remove the pith, put -them into a basin, and squeeze the juice of the fruit into it; then put -a quarter of a pound of sugar into a stewpan, with half a pint of water, -and set it to boil until it becomes a thick syrup, when take it off, and -add the juice and rind of the fruits, cover the stewpan, and place it -again on the fire; as soon as boiling commences skim well, and add one -glass of water by degrees, which will assist its clarification, let it -boil another minute, when add half an ounce of good isinglass, dissolved -as directed (No. 740), pass it through a jelly-bag, add a few drops of -prepared cochineal to give an orange tint, and then fill a mould and -place it on ice; turn out as before. - - -747. _Lemon Jelly_ is made the same way, only using six lemons and the -rind of one; serve quite white, and add a gill of Bucellas, or any very -pale wine. - -Calf's foot stock, reduced and clarified, may be used instead of the -isinglass. - - -748. _Whipped Jellies_ are made from any of the above by placing some -warm jelly in a large bowl or basin on ice, and when nearly cold -whisking it; pour quickly in a mould set on ice and salt, where let -remain till ready for serving; dip it in lukewarm water, strike gently, -taking it in the right hand, place the left on it, turn it over, if it -shakes in the mould, let it gradually slip off your hand on the dish, -and remove the mould. All jellies are removed the same way. - - -749. _Bohemian Jelly Creams_ may be made of any flavor as jellies, and -either ripe fruit or with marmalade or jam, to which add the juice of -two lemons, a pint of water, in which one ounce and a half of isinglass -has been dissolved, or a pint of reduced clarified calf's foot jelly, -stir together in a bowl placed on ice; when nearly cold, stir quickly in -three parts of a pint of whipped cream, fill the mould, which should be -kept on ice, and turn out as before. A small bottle of Crosse and -Blackwell's jelly may be used instead of the isinglass or jelly, by -uncorking and placing the bottle in a stewpan of hot water till -dissolved, or pour it in a clean stewpan, and reduce it one third. -Cherries, raspberries, strawberries, currants, and gooseberries must be -passed through a sieve; but apricots, peaches, apples, pears, quinces, -pineapples, and marmalade may be used as they are. Creams may be made of -any flavor, and of either ripe fruits, jams, or marmalade; they are made -plain, thus: put the yolks of five eggs in a stewpan, with six ounces of -sugar, beat it up with a spoon until white; in another stewpan have a -pint of milk and one ounce of isinglass, boil ten minutes, stir -continually to prevent burning, flavor with vanilla or anything to your -taste, pour the milk on the eggs and sugar, put on the fire, stir well -together, do not let it boil, pass through a tammy into a round bowl; -when cold, set on ice, add two or three glasses of liqueur, keep -stirring its contents, and when setting, add three parts of a pint of -cream well whipped, mix well together, and pour into your mould in the -ice, and keep there till required; turn out as before. - - -750. _Charlotte Russe._--Line the inside of a plain round mould with -Savoy biscuits, cutting and placing them at the bottom to form a -rosette, standing them upright and close together, fill with any of the -above creams, omitting the fruits, place the mould in ice, let it remain -till ready to serve, turn over on a dish, and remove the mould. - - -751. _Strawberry Charlotte._--Line a plain round mould with ripe -strawberries by burying the mould in ice to the rim, and dipping the -strawberries in calf's foot jelly, first covering the bottom with them -cut in halves, the cut side downwards, afterwards building them up the -sides, the jelly (which must be cold, but not set) causing them to -adhere; when finished, fill it with the cream as directed for the -charlotte russe, and when ready to serve dip the mould in warm water, -and turn it out upon your dish. The cream must be very nearly set when -you pour it in, or it would run between the strawberries and produce a -bad effect. - - -752. _Chartreuse Cake of variegated Fruits._--Line a charlotte mould -very tastefully with various kinds of fruits (such as stoned cherries, -strawberries, pieces of peaches, apricots, &c.) by dipping them into -jelly, forming some design at the bottom of the mould, and building them -in reverse rows up the sides, having the mould previously placed in ice, -when well set, terminate as in the last. - - -753. _Blancmange._--To one quart of milk add one ounce of isinglass, a -quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, a little -grated nutmeg, half of the peel of a lemon, and a bay-leaf, simmer over -a slow fire, stirring till the isinglass is dissolved, pass it through a -napkin into a basin, and pour into a mould. This can be made any color -or flavor that will not curdle the milk; the milk of bitter almonds may -be added to flavor it. - - -754. _Another._--Put into a bowl about a pint of clear calf's-foot jelly -warm, break six eggs, beat the yolks and pour them gradually into the -jelly, beating all the time; put on the fire and whisk till nearly -boiling, set it on ice or in cold water, keep stirring till nearly cold, -and fill your mould. You may add whatever flavor you like. - - -755. _Trifles_ should be made early in the day on which they are wanted; -take a stale Savoy cake, cut it in slices of one inch thick, and lay it -on the bottom of the dish; lay on that a thin layer of any kind of -marmalade, jam, or jelly, have some macaroons and ratafia cakes and lay -on, and cover the whole with some sponge cakes. For a dish nine inches -in diameter, mix two glasses of sherry, one of brandy, half a one of -rum, and the same of noyeau, and pour over, and let it remain until it -is well soaked, then pour over about one inch thick of rich custard; -put a pint of cream into a bowl, with some sifted sugar, a squeeze of a -lemon, and about a tablespoonful of the wine, &c., you have put on the -cake, whisk it well up. I use a trifle-blower, which saves some trouble; -I also use it for all whipped cream; and as the froth rises remove it -with a spoon on to a clean sieve, where let it drain, then place it on -the custard until it is high and handsome. - -I have occasionally, when being in a hurry, and having no cream by me, -proceeded as above, and made the whip with the whites of eggs, and some -very white peach or egg-plum marmalade together, until it makes firm -froth or whip, which put on the custard; this may also be colored a nice -pink. - -Trifles are generally considered unwholesome; I think it is because they -are often made too long before they are wanted, and no spirit is used in -the cake, the consequence is, the cream turns sour. - -The remains of this make an excellent pudding. - - - - -PUDDINGS IN MOULDS. - - - We have already, in the Comforts for Invalids, given several of the - most simple receipts. I prefer using, in these kinds of puddings, - as the principal ingredient, stale Savoy cake, or sponge cakes, or - ladies' fingers, and, if I cannot get them, crumbs of stale bread; - they may be made in a hundred different ways, according to the - fancy and taste of the cook; the mould should be buttered and - papered; they may be either baked or steamed. - - There is hardly any of our sex, from childhood to old age, but - loves this truly English mixture, which appears upon our tables in - a hundred different shapes, but always under the same name; and I - should not fancy my labors complete if I did not produce a new one - of my own invention; I therefore beg you to accept of the - dedication, as I intend to call it-- - - -756. _Pudding a la Eloise._--It is made as follows: take half a pound of -bread-crumbs, which put in a basin, with two ounces of sago, six ounces -of chopped suet, six eggs, five ounces of moist sugar, and a -tablespoonful of either orange, lemon, or apricot marmalade; mix all -well together, and ornament the bottom of the mould with green angelica -in syrup, and Smyrna raisins, and fill up with the mixture. Place the -mould in a stewpan containing water to half the height of the mould, and -boil gently for two hours; remove it from the mould, and serve with a -sauce made of a tablespoonful of either of the marmalades, or of currant -or apple jelly and two glasses of sherry poured over. This, I assure -you, received great praise from the little party of juveniles that I had -the other day. - - -757. _Pudding a la Reine._--Butter and paper the mould, fill up with -cake or bread-crumbs, when full pour some custard in until it will hold -no more; this may be flavored with any white liquor or essence you -please, for instance, citron (then it is called Pudding a la Reine au -Citron), or orange; use peel thinly sliced, and so on for any flavor you -may give it. - - -758. _Mince-meat Pudding._--Butter and paper the mould, then put a layer -of cake and a layer of mince-meat alternately, till full, then add the -custard. - - -759. _Demi-Plum Pudding._--Prepare the mould, then add a layer of plum -pudding, broken in pieces, that has been left from the previous day, -alternately, till full, fill up with custard, and steam or bake for -three minutes. The remains of any kind of pudding may be used thus. - - -760. _Trifle Pudding._--Prepare the mould, and fill with the same -ingredients as directed for trifle, taking care that the wine, &c., is -well soaked in before adding the custard. Steam or bake thirty minutes. -The sides and tops of these puddings may be ornamented with cut -angelica, hops, or candied orange or lemon-peel, in any fanciful design -you please, and they may be served with any kind of wine sauce. - - -761. _Carrot Pudding._--Mix in a bowl half a pound of flour, half a -pound of chopped suet, three quarters of a pound of grated carrot, a -quarter of a pound of raisins stoned, a quarter of a pound of currants, -and a quarter of a pound of sugar, brown or sifted white; place these in -a mould or dish, beat up two whole eggs, the yolks of four in a gill of -milk, grate a little nutmeg in it, and add it to the former; bake or -steam forty-five minutes. - - - - -PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS. - - - The principal one, and the most celebrated, is the plum pudding. - - -762. _Plum Pudding._--Pick and stone one pound of the best Malaga -raisins, which put in a basin, with one pound of currants (well washed, -dried, and picked), a pound and a half of good beef suet (chopped, but -not too fine), three quarters of a pound of white or brown sugar, two -ounces of candied lemon-and orange-peel, two ounces of candied citron, -six ounces of flour, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, with a -little grated nutmeg; mix the whole well together, with eight whole eggs -and a little milk; have ready a plain or ornamented pudding-mould, well -butter the interior, pour the above mixture into it, cover a sheet of -paper over, tie the mould in a cloth, put the pudding into a large -stewpan containing boiling water, and let boil quite fast for four hours -and a half (or it may be boiled by merely tying it in a pudding-cloth -previously well floured, forming the shape by laying the cloth in a -round-bottomed basin and pouring the mixture in, it will make no -difference in the time required for boiling); when done, take out of the -cloth, turn from the mould upon your dish, sprinkle a little powdered -sugar over, and serve with the following sauce in a boat: Put the yolks -of three eggs in a stewpan, with a spoonful of powdered sugar, and a -gill of milk; mix well together, add a little lemon-peel, and stir over -the fire until becoming thickish (but do not let it boil), when add two -glasses of brandy, and serve separate. - -The above sauce may be served, poured over the pudding, if approved of. - -An excellent improvement to a plum pudding is to use half a pound of -beef marrow cut into small dice, omitting the same quantity of suet. - - -763. _Rowley Powley._--Roll out about two pounds of paste (No. 685), -cover it with any jam or marmalade you like, roll it over and tie it -loose in a cloth, well tying each end; boil one hour and serve, or cut -it in slices and serve with sauce over. - - -764. _Plum Bolster, or Spotted Dick._--Roll out two pounds of paste -(No. 685), having some Smyrna raisins well washed, and place them on it -here and there, roll over, tie in a cloth, and boil one hour, and serve -with butter and brown sugar. - - -765. _Plain Bolster._--Roll as above, sift some white or brown sugar -over it, the addition of a little powdered cinnamon to the sugar is an -improvement, roll over and proceed as before. - - -766. _Apple Dumplings._--Peel and cut out the core with a cutter, cover -it with paste (No. 685), tie in a cloth, and boil according to size; -these are all the better for being boiled and kept in the cloth, hung up -for four or six weeks, and re-warmed. They may likewise be baked. These -kind of boiled puddings, containing a large quantity of paste, should be -made with flour, in which is mixed one saltspoonful of culinary alkali -powder to four pounds of flour, which will cause them to be much -lighter. - - - - -PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES. - - -767. _Marrow Pudding_ may be made in various ways; it is best with half -a pound of ladies' finger cakes, and a quarter of a pound of beef -marrow, chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of currants well cleaned, -half an ounce of candied lemon-peel, a little nutmeg, a tablespoonful of -powdered sugar, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a wineglassful of wine -or brandy: put these on a dish, and fill up with custard, having -previously put a border of paste on the rim; about half an hour will do -it. - - -768. _Custard Pudding._--Make a border of paste on the dish, and fill up -with custard, grate a little nutmeg on the top. - -Any kind of fruit puddings with custard may be made in the same way, by -placing them in the custard, and sift some finely powdered sugar over, -before going to the baker's. - - -769. _Fruit Puddings_ are best made in a basin, the basin to be buttered -and lined with the paste, and then filled with the fruit, which cover -with the paste, the paste should be rolled round to the thickness of -half an inch, and when the fruit is in, drawn to the centre and -squeezed, and then tied up in a cloth kept on purpose, and boiled in -plenty of water; when done, which will be according to the nature of the -fruit you put in it, serve it either turned out of the basin or not. The -cover should be of the same thickness as the sides. Sugar should be -added before being covered. - - -770. _Apples_ should be pared, cored, and cut in quarters, and put in -with some sugar, a few cloves, and a bit of lemon-peel. - - -771. _Wall fruit--as Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and Plums_,--should -he cut in half, and the kernels extracted from the stones and added, a -little cream, according to the size of the pudding, in which a little -grated cinnamon is added, may be put in at the same time as the fruit; -use but little sugar. - - -772. _Gooseberry, Rhubarb, Currants, red, white, and black, Raspberry -and Cherry, Blackberry, Whorts, Damson, and Greengage_--may all be made -in a similar way. - - -773. _Mince Meat._--Procure four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet, -which skin and chop very finely; have also a quarter of a pound of -candied lemon and orange-peel; the same of citron, a pound and a half of -lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole -separately, chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds -and a half of currants, well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed -spice, and two pounds of sugar; mix the whole well together with the -juice of eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie -down until ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well -stoned and chopped, may likewise be added to the above. It is ready for -use in a few days. - - -774. _Mince Pies._--Have a piece of puff-paste, which roll out to the -thickness of a penny-piece; have also a dozen tartlet-pans, which -lightly butter, cut out twelve pieces with a round cutter from the -paste, each the size of your tartlet-pans; lay them upon the slab, roll -the trimming of the paste again to the former thickness, cut twelve -other pieces, with which line the tartlet-pans; put a piece of -mince-meat, made as under, in each, wet them round, place on the lids, -pricking a hole with a pin in the centre, and close them well at the -edges; egg over lightly, and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate -oven. - - -775. _Fruit Pies._--These are made in pie-dishes, the top of which is -only covered with paste; the edge of the dish should be wetted, and a -strip of paste, about one inch wide and a quarter of an inch thick, put -on it, then fill the dish with the fruit, wet the paste on the edge, and -cover with paste, mark the edge with a roller, or the back of a knife. - - -776. _Apple Pie._--Pare, cut, and core sufficient apples to fill the -dish, put a small cup in the middle or not, as you like, one clove, to -every three apples, a pinch of pounded cinnamon, a small piece of -chopped lemon-peel, and sugar; bake according to size. - - -777. _Rhubarb and Apple_, or _Rhubarb and Gooseberry, Currant and -Raspberry, Cherry, Plum, Damson, Pear, Quince, Mulberry, Whortleberry_, -or _Whorts and Raspberry, Dewberry and Raspberry_, or _Cranberry_, may -all be made in the same way, in winter. A little whipped cream may be -placed in the top, for a variety. - - - - -REMOVES--SECOND COURSE. - - -778. _Chestnut Pudding, Nesselrode fashion._--Blanch four dozen -chestnuts in boiling water, skim and place them in the screen, when dry -take them out, and when cold put them into a mortar, with one pound of -sugar, and half a stick of vanilla, pound the whole well together, and -sift it through a fine wire sieve, put into a stewpan, with the yolks of -twelve eggs, beat them well together; in another stewpan have a quart -of milk, when boiling pour it over the other ingredients, mixing well, -and stir over a sharp fire until it begins to thicken and adheres to the -back of the spoon, then lay a tammy upon a large dish, pour the mixture -in and rub it through with two wooden spoons; when cold place it in a -freezing-pot and freeze as directed (No. 833); when frozen have a large -high ice-mould, which closes hermetically, have also two ounces of -currants and two ounces of Smyrna raisins, soaked in four glasses of -marasquino from the previous day, with four ounces of candied citron cut -in dice, put them into the freezing-pot, with a pint of whipped cream -and half the meringue preparation directed in No. 711; freeze the whole -well together and fill your mould, which bury in ice and salt until -ready to serve, then dip it into lukewarm water, and turn it out upon -your dish. - - -779. _Iced Cabinet Pudding._--Have ready prepared, and rather stale, a -sponge-cake as directed (No. 859), which cut into slices half an inch -thick, and rather smaller than the mould you intend making the pudding -in, soak them well with noyeau brandy; then lay some preserved dry -cherries at the bottom of the mould, with a few whole ratafias, lay one -of the slices over, then more cherries and ratafias, proceeding thus -until the mould is three parts full; have ready a quart of the custard -(No. 804), omitting half the quantity of isinglass, pour it lukewarm -into your mould, which close hermetically, and bury in ice and salt, -where let it remain at least two hours; when ready to serve dip it in -lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; you have made about half -a pint of custard, which keep upon ice, pour over the pudding when ready -to serve, and sprinkle a few chopped pistachios over. - - -780. _White Almond Pudding Ices._--Blanch and skin a quarter of a pound -of sweet almonds, with six or eight bitter ones, when dry and cold, -place them in a mortar, with three quarters of a pound of sugar, and ten -or twelve leaves of candied orange-flowers, pound well, sift through a -wire sieve, and place it in a stewpan, with the yolks of eight eggs, -beat them well together; then in another stewpan have boiling a pint -and a half of milk, which pour over the other ingredients by degrees, -keeping it stirred, place it upon the fire, stirring until it thickens -and adheres to the back of the spoon, rub it through a tammy, add two -glasses of noyeau; when cold put into your freezing-pot to freeze, and -when half frozen add a pint and a half of whipped cream, when quite -frozen fill a mould, and serve as pudding Nesselrode fashion. - - -781. _Fruit, Chartreuse of, with Lemon Jelly._--Make a chartreuse of -fruit as directed (No. 752), in a round or oval mould, having a quantity -of fruit left; having also about a quart of orange jelly, which place -upon ice in a bowl, whisking it until on the point of setting, then -place a layer of it in the chartreuse, then a layer of the fruit, the -jelly, and so on until quite filled, place it upon ice, and when set and -ready to serve, dip in lukewarm water, and turn it out upon your dish; -serve garnished round with jelly in the skins of the oranges, cut in -quarters after it has set, or leave out the garnishing. - - -782. _Souffle of Orange Iced._--Prepare about three parts of the -quantity of ice as directed in the last, to which, when half frozen, add -a pint and a half of whipped orange jelly just upon the point of -setting, beat the whole well together with the spatula, working it until -well frozen: have a dozen and a half of oranges, peeled, quartered, and -passed in sugar as directed for vol-au-vent, and place them in a basin -upon ice; when ready to serve, make a border of almond paste upon your -dish, in the centre of which put a little of the ice, then a layer of -oranges, then the same and oranges again, proceeding thus and finishing -in pyramid; garnish round with various small ripe fruits. - - -783. _Punch Cake Souffle._--Break ten eggs, put the whites in a copper -bowl, and the yolks in a basin, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered -sugar, four of crushed ratafias, two of potato flour, a little salt, and -a quarter of an ounce of candied orange-flowers, beat well together, -whip the whites, which stir in lightly with the mixture; well butter and -bread-crumb the interior of an oval plain mould, butter also and -bread-crumb a band of paper three inches broad, which tie round at the -top of the mould, pour in the mixture, and half an hour before ready to -serve stand it in a moderate oven (it will take about the above time to -bake), when done turn it out upon your dish; have ready a custard of -three yolks of eggs, to which you have added two glasses of essence of -punch, pour round the cake and serve. - -The above mixture may be baked in twelve small moulds and dressed in -pyramid, but then they would require more sauce. - - - - -SOUFFLE. - - - These dishes, being the last of the Dinner, require the greatest - care and taste in executing, as, by the time they come on the - table, the appetites of those around it are supposed to be - satisfied; the eye and the palate require to be pleased, in order - to sustain the enjoyments of the table; this is a period of dinner - when another of the senses may be gratified by the introduction of - music (and which is continually practised on the Continent), and - all ought to be of a light and inviting character. - - Formerly it was the custom never to give a dinner without a souffle - as the last dish, or professionally speaking, remove. I do not - dislike them, but they require the greatest care and nicety, and - are rather difficult to perform in our old-fashioned kitchens, but - easy in my new stove; at any rate I must give you the receipt. - - -784. _Souffle of Lemon, or any other flavor._--Prepare a crust or -croustade of fine paste (No. 687), or water paste, by lining a raised -pie-mould with it, filling with bread-crumbs, and finishing the edges as -for a raised pie; bake it (of a very light brown color) about an hour in -a moderate oven, when done, empty out all the bread-crumbs without -taking it out of the mould, then tie a band of buttered paper (four -inches wide) round the top, and put it by until wanted. Put half a pound -of butter in a stewpan, with which mix three quarters of a pound of -flour without melting it, in another stewpan have rather more than a -quart of milk, into which, when boiling, put two sticks of vanilla, -place a cover upon the stewpan and let it remain until half cold, then -take out the vanilla, and pour the milk upon the butter and flour, stir -over a sharp fire, boiling it five minutes, then stir in quickly the -yolks of ten eggs, and sweeten with half a pound of sugar; when cold, -and an hour and a quarter before you are ready to serve, whip the -whites of the ten eggs very stiff, stir them in with the mixture -lightly, pour it into the croustade, and bake about an hour in a -moderate oven; if going too fast, and liable to be done before required, -open the oven door, as it ought to be served the moment it is done; when -ready to serve take it from the oven, detach the band of paper, take it -from the mould, dress it upon a napkin on a dish, and serve immediately. - -These souffles may be baked in a silver souffle-case, if preferred, they -will take considerably less time in baking, but fall quicker after being -taken from the oven; any liquor or spirits may be introduced in souffles -of this description if approved of. - -This is large enough for a dinner of eighteen; a quarter of that -quantity will make a nice family one, baked in a plain tart-dish. - - -785. _Souffle of Orange-flowers._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but -infusing an ounce of candied orange-flowers in the milk instead of the -vanilla. - - -786. _Souffle of Rice Cream_ is made by using ground rice instead of the -common flour, finishing the same, and using any of the flavors directed -in the last three. - - -787. _Souffle of Lemon._--Proceed as directed for souffle a la vanille, -but infusing the rind of two lemons, free from pith, in the milk instead -of the vanilla. - - -788. _Omelette Souffle._--Break six eggs, place the yolks in one basin -and the whites in another; add to the yolks three tablespoonfuls of lump -sugar, half one of fecule of potato or wheat flour, and ten drops of -orange-flower water; beat well together; whip the whites, beginning -rather slowly at first, increasing by degrees, until it forms a stiff -froth; then add the yolks, very gently beating up the whites as you add -it: have ready a silver or plated dish (for want of either, use tin), -and butter it well; place the mixture on it, and put it into a hot oven; -look that it rises; if so, run a knife round it; sift some sugar on it, -place it in the oven again, and serve, when well raised, immediately. - - -789. _Omelette Souffle Saute._--The mixture is prepared precisely as the -last, but the appearance and flavor are very different, being produced -by the different method of cooking them; put an ounce of butter into a -very clean omelette-pan over the fire; when melted, pour in half the -preparation, place it over a very brisk fire a few seconds, then twist -it round in the pan, which give a jerk, tossing the omelette half-way -over, stand it over the fire again, give the pan another jerk, tossing -the omelette again over, and turn it out upon your dish, set it in the -oven, and proceed the same with the remainder of the preparation, which -when done turn over upon the other; leave it in the oven about a quarter -of an hour, sprinkle sugar over, salamander and serve very quickly. The -butter the souffle is saute in gives it a superior flavor to the last. - - -790. _Cream Omelette Souffle._--Proceed as in the last, deducting two of -the whites of eggs, and adding a gill of whipped cream, saute and serve -as before. - - -791. _Souffle Biscuits._--Put the yolks of five eggs in a basin, and the -whites in a copper bowl, add a pound of sugar, upon which you have -rubbed the rind of a lemon previous to pounding, beat it well with the -yolks of the eggs, then add a gill of cream, well whipped, and five -ounces of flour; stir all together lightly, whip the whites of the eggs -very stiff, and stir them into the preparation; have ready ten small -paper cases, fill each one three parts full, and fifteen minutes before -serving place them in a moderate oven; when done shake sugar over, dress -in pyramids, upon a napkin, and serve. - - -792. _Souffle, or Whipped Cream._--Take one quart of cream, put it into -a bowl, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and orange-flower -powder of water, and have another bowl near you, over which you must -place a sieve to receive and drain the cream, whip the cream with a -whisk, or blow it up with a bellows made on purpose, and as it rises in -a froth, take it off with a spoon, and place it on the sieve; continue -till all is used, then put back the drainings, and continue until you -have none left, then put it into your dish or in glasses, or on a -trifle, and ornament with nonpareils, or with green citron peel or -angelica cut very fine and tastefully. It can likewise be iced. - - -793. _Coffee Souffle Cream._--Take about a quarter of a pound of clean -raw coffee, heat it in a clean saute-pan on the fire, so that it gets -hot through, but does not burn, then put it into one quart of cream, and -cover it up; let it cool as quickly as possible on ice, add five ounces -of powdered sugar, and proceed as above. - - -794. _Vanilla Souffle Cream._--Cut a pod of vanilla small, pound it with -sugar, sift it through a fine sieve, and add it to your cream, or add -some drops of essence of vanilla, and proceed as directed above. - - -795. _Fondue of Parmesan and Gruyere, or any other grated Cheese._--Put -a quarter of a pound of butter and six ounces of flour in a stewpan, mix -them well together (without melting the butter) with a wooden spoon, -then add rather more than a pint of boiling milk, stir over the fire, -boil twenty minutes, then add the yolks of five eggs (stir in well), -half a pound of grated Parmesan, and a quarter of a pound of grated -Gruyere cheese; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter do. of -pepper, and half a saltspoonful of cayenne; if too thick add two or -three whole eggs to give it the consistency of a souffle, whip the five -whites of egg firm, stir them gently into the mixture, have ready a -croustade prepared as for the souffle (No. 784), pour in the above -mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven; it will require a little longer -time than the souffle; dish and serve the same. - - -796. _Neapolitan Fondue._--Prepare half of the mixture as in the last, -but previous to adding the whites of eggs stir in a quarter of a pound -of good macaroni blanched, and cut into pieces an inch in length; add -the whites, bake, and serve as before. - - -797. _Fondue (simple method)._--Put two ounces of Gruyere and two -ounces of Parmesan cheese (grated) into a basin (or, if you have not got -them, use English cheese), with a little salt, pepper, and cayenne, add -the yolks of six eggs, with a quarter of a pound of butter melted (mix -well), whip the whites of the six eggs, stir gently into the other -ingredients, fill small paper cases with it, bake about a quarter of an -hour in a moderate oven, dress upon a napkin, and serve very hot. - - -798. _Fondue of Stilton Cheese._--Put six ounces of butter and half a -pound of flour in a stewpan, rub well together with a wooden spoon, then -add a quart of warm milk, stir over the fire a quarter of an hour, then -add the yolks of eight eggs, three quarters of a pound of grated -Parmesan, and half a pound of Stilton cheese in small dice, season -rather highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne, add the white of the eggs -whipped very stiff, which stir in lightly; have a dozen and a half of -small paper cases, fill each one three parts full, place them in a -moderate oven, bake about twenty minutes; when done dress them upon a -napkin on your dish, and serve very hot. - - -799. _Cheese Raminole._--Put a gill of water in a stewpan, to which add -two ounces of Gruyere and the same quantity of Parmesan cheese (grated), -two ounces of butter, a little cayenne pepper, and salt if required, set -it upon the fire, and when boiling stir in two or three spoonfuls of -flour; keep stirring over the fire until the paste becomes dryish and -the bottom of the stewpan quite white, then add three or four eggs by -degrees, until forming a paste like No. 724, butter a baking-sheet well, -and lay the paste out in pieces upon it with a tablespoon, making them -long, and half the size of the bowl of the spoon; egg over, and lay a -small piece of Gruyere cheese upon each, put them into the oven about -twenty minutes before they are required; bake them a little crisp, and -serve very hot, dressed in pyramid upon a napkin. - - -800. _Puff Cheesecake._--Make half a pound of paste (No. 686), which -roll very thin, have ready some grated Parmesan and Gruyere cheese -mixed, throw half a handful over the paste, which fold in three, roll it -out to the same thickness again, cover again with cheese, proceeding -thus until you have used the whole of the cheese (half a pound), then -cut them into any shapes you like with pastry cutters, set on a wet -baking-sheet, egg them over, bake a nice color in a moderate oven, dress -in pyramid upon a napkin on a dish, and serve very hot. - - -801. _Cheese Souffle, or Diablotins._--Put a gill of milk in a stewpan, -with two ounces of butter; when boiling, stir in two spoonfuls of flour, -keep stirring over the fire until the bottom of the stewpan is dry, then -add four eggs by degrees, half a pound of Gruyere, and half a pound of -grated Parmesan cheese; mix well in, season with pepper, salt, and -cayenne rather highly, mould the paste into little balls with the -forefinger against the side of the stewpan containing it, drop them into -hot lard; fry of a nice light brown, dress in pyramid upon a napkin, and -serve very hot; a quarter of that quantity may of course be made. - - -802. _Turban of Almond Cake Iced._--This is a very good and useful -second course remove. Make half a pound of puff paste, give it nine -rolls, rolling it the last time to the thickness of a penny-piece, have -ready blanched and chopped half a pound of sweet almonds, which put in a -basin with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs, or -a little more if required; spread it over the paste the thickness of a -shilling, and with a knife cut the paste into pieces two inches and a -half in length and nearly one in breadth, place them upon a -baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very light brown color, in a moderate -oven, dress them on a stiff border of any kind of stiff jam or -marmalade, so as to form a large crown according to the size you require -it; then fill the interior with vanilla cream, or any other, iced, but -not too hard, and bring it up to a point; the cake may be cut in any -shape you fancy, but never make them too large. - - -803. _Turban of Pastry._--Observe that any kind of pastry fourree, as -No. 712, or meringue, No. 711, will, if dished as above, with iced -cream, make a very nice remove. - - -804. _Custard for Puddings._--Take one pint of milk, to which add the -yolks of two eggs, and beat up, add a quarter of a pound of sugar, half -a saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon and nutmeg, and a bay-leaf. For -mould puddings, the mould should be filled first with the bread, &c., -and the custard added; should it be wanted alone in glasses, it must -then be put into a saucepan on the fire until it nearly boils, keep -stirring it well during the time. - - -805. _Batter for Fritters._--Take half a pound of flour, one ounce of -butter, which melt, the whites of three eggs well beaten, half a glass -of beer, and enough water to make a thick batter. - - - - -DESSERT. - - - - -LETTER No. XVI - - - MA CHERE ELOISE,--Remembering your admiration of the small dessert - I put on the table at my last birth-day party, you will, I am - confident, feel interested in the description of desserts in - general, and I will give you a few more hints and receipts, which - will tend both to economize as well as gratify the palate and - sight; and very different in style from some of our visitors, who, - though they spend their money freely enough when they give their - Christmas party, but still keep up the old style of covering their - table with dry sweet stuff, and, in the way of fruits, display - oranges in their original golden skin, Ribston pippins in their - mournful ones, American apples with their vermilion cheeks, large - winter pears in their substantial state, the whole ornamented and - crowned with laurel, no doubt to signify their immortality, being - present upon almost every table from year to year, especially the - unsociable pear, which no teeth can ever injure, but, on the - contrary, it may injure the teeth. A very comical friend assured - us, as a fact, that he had met one of the before-mentioned pears in - three different parties in less than a week, having, for - curiosity's sake, engraved his initial with a penknife upon one he - was served with at the first party. "And, talk about pine-apples," - said he, "many times I have had the pleasure of meeting with the - same, and even as much as twice in less than twelve hours, quite in - a different direction, that is, on a dinner-table in the west-end - about eight in the evening, and, at midnight, on the supper-table - of a civic ball; at dinner being perched on an elevated stand in - the centre of a large wide table, so much out of reach that it - would almost require a small ladder to get at it; and I must say - that every guest present paid due respect to his high position, and - never made an assault, or even an attempt to disturb, much less to - uncrown his fruity majesty, though, now and then, one of the fair - guests, as a compliment, would remark to the amphitrion, that she - never saw in her life a finer pine-apple. 'Very fine, very fine - indeed, madam! will you allow me to offer you part of an orange?' - 'Not any more, I thank you, sir,' being the reply." - - On the supper table this aristocratic and inaccessible pine still - holds its kingly rank, and is still proudly perched on the top of a - sideboard, surrounded by Portugal or Rhenish grapes, and to prevent - its dethronement by removing the grapes the intelligent waiter has - carefully tied it to the ornament that supports it. Our friend, who - is a literary gentleman, has promised to write a small brochure, to - be called the 'Memoirs of a Pineapple in London,' which I am - confident, will not fail of being very interesting, having had the - advantage of mixing in so many different societies. - - I know, dearest, what will be your feeling after the perusal of the - above, that I have given vent to a little scandal; but it is the - truth, and of almost daily occurrence, so that there is no mystery - about it. I do not mean that it is very general, but is certainly - often practised; for my part, you know my style: I never attempt to - astonish my guests with extensive wonders of nature and art in any - shape of eatable, but simply follow the middle prices, by which I - always can procure the best quality of article in comestibles; and - nothing pleases me more when I give a party than that every dish on - the table should be partaken of, and still more so when entirely - eaten. I do not approve of meanness; though a great economist, I - abhor it as much as I do extravagance; and we never, I assure you, - give a single party without being perfectly satisfied that it does - not interfere with our daily comforts, that is, as regards - financial matters. For dessert in summer I confine it entirely to - fresh fruit, compotes, ices, and a few almond cakes, and Savoy - biscuits. Fruits, preserves, oranges, compotes, and biscuits in - winter. - - The list of names I here inclose to you consists of moderately - priced articles, and will enable you to make a good appearance for - your dessert, and at a trifling expense. - - The first thing I wish you to be initiated in is, what is called in - France "compote," which may be made almost from any kind of fruits, - especially apples, pears, apricots, plums, greengages, peaches, - cherries, gooseberry, oranges, &c. It was on my second visit to - Havre that I took lessons in confectionery; I paid as much as ten - shillings per lesson to M. Bombe Glace, that being the "nom de - guerre" of the first confectioner there; but you know, dearest, how - quick I am learning, especially anything in the way of cookery. I - really must say I do love cooking, so you may fancy that the clever - artist, Monsieur le Confiseur, had not very many of our - demi-souvereign, as he called them, from us; my Mr. B. thought at - the time that it was quite ridiculous and extravagant to pay so - much for a trifle like that; but let me tell you, dear, he had not - then tasted them; but now all the wall-and tree-fruits from our - garden, if I were to follow entirely his taste, would be converted - into compote, he being so remarkably fond of it. - - - - -COMPOTE. - - - Procure a very clean tin stewpan or a small sugar-pan; it being - more preferable for boiling sugar, why I cannot tell, never having - asked the reason, being so anxious to know other things which I - thought more serviceable. Since I have tried it in a common - stewpan, it has answered very well; and knowing by experience that - your culinary laboratory is still in its innocent infancy, you - might be prevented from making an immediate experiment by waiting - till you could get one; you may use that three-pint size stewpan - for it, which I lent you for a pattern about three weeks ago, and - after which I shall feel extremely gratified by its reappearance on - my kitchen shelf at No. 5, being out of the middle row of them, - because every time I enter my kitchen it puts me in mind of a very - pretty woman minus one of her front teeth. - - Excuse me if I claim it of you, but I want to teach you punctuality - as well as economy. - - -806. _Winter Pears._--To put an end to its long and hard existence, I -would cut it into six or eight pieces lengthwise, peel and cut out the -cores, giving them a nice shape; then put them into a stewpan, with a -quarter of a pound of sugar, a gill of port wine, the thin rind of a -lemon, a little cinnamon, and half a pint of water; let them simmer -gently about an hour or until tender; when done, put them into a basin, -reduce the syrup until thickish if required, and pour over; when cold -they are ready to serve. - -A little prepared cochineal mixed with the syrup very much improves -their appearance. A dish composed half of these and half of the white -has a very pretty appearance. By placing a layer of marmalade among -them, at the bottom of the dish, you may dish them in crown, or any -shape you like. - - -807. _Compote of Peaches._--Put half a pound of lump sugar (broken into -small pieces) into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of water, which -set upon the fire to boil until forming a thickish syrup; you have -previously cut four ripe peaches in halves, lay them carefully in the -boiling syrup to simmer a couple of minutes, then carefully remove them -with a colander-spoon on to a hair-sieve to drain, when remove the -skins, and dress the peaches neatly upon your dessert-dish; reduce the -syrup until of a good consistency, and when cold pour it over, and they -are ready to serve. - - -808. _Compote of Apples._--Procure six nice ripe apples, but not too -large, which peel, cut in halves, and cut out the cores, rub each piece -over with a little lemon, and put them into boiling syrup made as last -directed, but with the juice of a lemon, and the rind cut into small -fillets added; let the apple stew until tender, but not broken, when -drain them upon a sieve, reduce the syrup; and when both are cold, dress -the apple neatly upon your dish, and pour the syrup over. A little green -angelique, cut in various shapes, will make a pretty ornament on any -white compote. - - -809. _Compote of small Apples, served whole._--Select nine small golden -pippins, each as nearly as possible of an equal size, and with a long -round vegetable cutter, of the size of a sixpenny piece, cut out the -cores, then peel them very thin and smooth, rub their surface with lemon -juice, and throw them into a basin of spring water; have ready boiling -half a pint of syrup, made as before directed, to which add the rind of -a lemon (cut into thin strips), and the juice, lay in the apples, which -let simmer very gently until quite tender, when drain them upon a -hair-sieve, and reduce the syrup until thickish; when quite cold, dress -the apples upon your dish, five at the bottom, three upon them, and one -upon the top; when ready to serve, pour the syrup over. - - -810. _Compote of Green Apricots._--Have a pottle of green apricots, from -which pick off all the stalks, and throw them into a stewpan containing -a quart of boiling water, and let them boil very fast for ten minutes, -and drain them upon a sieve: have ready half a pint of syrup made as -before directed, in which boil them until tender, but not to break, and -thicken the syrup, pour the whole into a basin until quite cold; should -the syrup then be too thin, strain it off into the stewpan to reduce to -a proper consistency, pouring it again over the apricots when quite -cold. Dish tastefully. - - -811. _Compote of Greengages._--Procure twelve greengages, not quite -ripe, each of which cut into halves; have ready boiling half a pint of -syrup, as before directed, into which put half the fruit, let it simmer -a couple of minutes, then remove them with a colander-spoon, draining -them upon a sieve; then put in the remainder, with which proceed in the -same manner; remove the skins, put the fruit into a basin, reduce the -syrup until thickish, and when cold, pour it over the fruit, which is -then ready to serve. - -Any description of plums may be dressed in precisely the same method. - - -812. _Compote of Apricots._--Procure six very fine ripe apricots, which -divide into halves; have ready half a pint of boiling syrup reduced -quite thick, in which let them simmer about a minute, when pour the -whole into a basin until cold; should the fruit not be quite ripe, they -would require longer time to simmer. I frequently break the stones and -blanch the kernels to add to the compote; they are a great improvement, -also, to cherries and plums. - - -813. _Compote of Cherries._--Take a pound of fine cherries, not too -ripe, and cut away half the stalks with a pair of scissors; have half a -pint of syrup, which boil until very thick, when add half of the -cherries, and boil them two or three minutes, take them out with a -colander-spoon, drain them upon a sieve, and proceed the same with the -remaining half; reduce the syrup until very thick, dress the cherries -pyramidically upon your dish, stalks uppermost, and when the syrup is -cold, pour it over, and serve. - - -814. _Compote of Oranges._--Make a pint of syrup as before; have six -fine oranges, which skin carefully, scraping off as much of the pith as -possible; divide each orange into eight entire pieces, without breaking -the delicate skin with which they are divided; when the syrup is very -thick, put in the pieces of oranges, which simmer gently for five -minutes, when take them out with a colander-spoon, and drain them upon a -sieve; reduce the syrup very quickly until thickish, and when cold, pour -it over the oranges, which will be then ready to serve. Half the rind of -the oranges, free from pith, cut into small fillets, are a great -improvement boiled in the syrup. - - -815. _Compote of French Plums._--Put half a pound of French plums into -a stewpan, with a gill of water, the same of wine, the rind of half a -lemon cut thin, two cloves, and a good spoonful of sugar, let them -simmer about twenty minutes, and when cold take out the lemon and -cloves, and they are ready to serve. - - - - -COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED. - - - As I usually make them when alone, or, if not, for a very - ceremonious dinner-party. The whole of the following must be done - over a very slow fire. - - -816. _Pears._--Cut six ripe middling-sized pears in halves, peel neatly, -cut out the cores, and put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a -pound of powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, the thin rind cut into -strips, and a very little drop of water, set them upon the fire, stewing -them until tender; they will form their own syrup; put them in a basin -until cold, when they are ready to serve. - - -817. _Pippins._--Peel and cut four apples into quarters, take out the -cores, and stew them as directed for pears, but using the rind of an -orange instead of the rind of a lemon. - - -818. _Oranges._--Prepare four oranges as directed (No. 814), which put -into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and the -juice of another orange; set them upon the fire, and when the syrup -becomes sufficiently thick to adhere to the pieces of orange, they are -done; when cold, dress them in a circle upon your dish, with strips of -angelica between each. - - -819. _Apricots._--Cut eight unripe apricots into quarters, which put -into a stewpan, with four ounces of sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a -drop of sherry, set them upon the fire, shaking the stewpan round -occasionally, until the apricots are tender, but not broken; a very few -minutes would be sufficient to stew them, and when cold, they are ready -to serve. - -For Peaches, proceed exactly the same; but if too ripe, they must be -done as directed for compote of peaches. - - -820. _Greengages and other Plums._--Put twelve into a stewpan with a -quarter of a pound of sugar, the juice of a lemon and a little drop of -water, set them over the fire, shaking the stewpan round occasionally -until the fruit is tender, but not mashed; when cold, dress them in -pyramid, and pour the syrup over. - - -821. _Cherries._--Cut the stalks of a pound of cherries rather short, -and put the fruit into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of sugar and -the juice of a lemon; place them over the fire (occasionally shaking the -pan round), letting them simmer about two minutes, when take them out -with a colander-spoon, and put them into a basin until cold, reduce the -syrup, to which add sufficient isinglass to set it as a jelly, and pour -it upon a large plate until set, when dress the cherries pyramidically, -just dip the bottom of the plate containing the syrup into warm water, -and turn it as a jelly over the cherries. - - -822. _Green Gooseberries._--Put a pint of green gooseberries into a -stewpan with two ounces of sugar and a little sherry, place them over a -sharp fire, as the quicker they cook the better color they will keep; -when tender but not broken, pour them into a basin, and when cold they -are ready to serve. - - -823. _Red Rhubarb._--The small forced rhubarb (Mitchell's Royal Albert) -is by far the best. Cut about half a pound of it into pieces half an -inch in length, which put into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of -powdered sugar and a wineglassful of water; set it over a sharp fire, -occasionally shaking the stewpan round, and when quite tender pour it -into a basin until cold; when it is ready to serve, should the syrup be -too thin, add sufficient isinglass to set it, and when cold dress it -pyramidically upon your dish. - - -824. _Currants and Raspberries._--Pick the stalks from a pint of -currants, which put into a stewpan with half a pint of raspberries and a -quarter of a pound of powdered sugar; set them upon the fire, shaking -the stewpan round occasionally until boiling, when pour them into a -basin to cool. Should the syrup be too thin, which would be the case if -the fruit is too ripe, drain the fruit from it, reduce it by boiling, -and when cold, pour it again over the fruit, which will then be ready to -serve. - - -825. _Royal Iceing for Cakes._--Have ready a pound of the best white -sugar, which pound well and sift through a silk sieve, put it into a -basin with the whites of three eggs, beat well together with a wooden -spoon, adding the juice of half a lemon, keep beating well until it -becomes very light and hangs in flakes from the spoon (if it should be -rather too stiff in mixing, add a little more white of egg, if, on the -contrary, too soft, a little more sugar), it is then ready for use where -required. - - -826. _Chocolate Iceing for Cakes_ is made similar to the last, but when -finished have ready a piece of the common chocolate, which melt in a -stewpan over the fire, keeping it stirred; when quite melted stir some -of it in with the iceing until you have obtained the color required, -moistening the iceing with a little more white of egg, and use where -directed. - - -827. _Sugar in Grains_ is made by pounding a quantity of sugar in a -mortar, and sifting off all the fine through a hair-sieve, then again -what remains in the sieve put into a rather coarse wire sieve, and that -which passes through is what is meant by the above term. - - -828. _How to give color to Sugar._--Prepare about half a pound of the -sugar as in the last, which put upon a baking-sheet; have a spoonful of -the essence of spinach, which stir in with the sugar until every gram is -stained, then put them in a warmish place to dry, but not too hot: to -color them red, use a little prepared cochineal or liquid carmine, -instead of the spinach, and proceed exactly the same: sugar may be made -of other colors by the use of indigo, rouge, saffron, &c.; but not being -partial to such a variety of coloring, I have merely given the red and -the green, which, with the white, I consider to be sufficient for any of -the purposes for which they are used. - - -829. _Sugar of Vanilla._--Chop a stick of well-frosted vanilla very -small, and put it into a mortar, with half a pound of lump sugar, pound -the whole well together in a mortar, sift through a hair sieve, and put -by in a bottle or jar, corking it up tight, and using where required. - - -830. _Sugar of Lemon._--Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large -piece of sugar, and as it discolors the part upon which it is rubbed -scrape it off with a knife; when you have obtained a sufficient -quantity, dry a little in the screen, and bottle for use where required. -Orange sugar may be made in the same manner, substituting very red -oranges for the lemons. - - -831. _How to make clear Sugar._--Break three pounds of fine white sugar, -the hardest and closest grained is the best, put it into a sugar-pan, -with three pints of clear spring water, set over a sharp fire, and when -beginning to boil place it at the corner to simmer, and squeeze in the -juice of half a lemon, skim well and reduce to two thirds, it is then -ready to use for jellies. - -If not able to obtain the best quality of sugar, it would be necessary -to use white of eggs as an assistance in the clarification, by putting -the white of one egg in a basin and whipping it well with a pint of cold -water, add half of it to the sugar, whipping it well in, let simmer, -adding the remainder by degrees whilst simmering, and passing it through -a fine cloth into a basin. The boiling of sugar is divided into seven -different degrees, which may be ascertained by the following -directions:-- - -The first degree is known by dipping a copper skimmer into it whilst -boiling, turning it over two or three times, if the sugar falls from it -in sheets it has attained the first degree. - -The second is known by boiling your sugar rather longer, dipping your -finger and thumb into cold water, then your finger into the boiling -sugar, putting your finger and thumb together, and again opening them, -it will form a kind of thread; if it is too weak boil a little longer, -this is the most useful degree for fruit or water ices. - -The third degree is attained by boiling it a little longer, and trying -it in the same manner, upon the thread baking, should it form a kind of -pearl, it has attained the above degree; the sugar in boiling would also -be covered with a quantity of small bubbles resembling pearls. - -The fourth degree is attained by boiling it still longer, dip a skimmer -into it, turn, take out and blow it hard, when the sugar will form -little bladders and float in the air, this degree is called the souffle. - -For the fifth degree boil still longer, trying it in the same manner, -but blowing harder, the bladders will be larger and adhere together, -forming feathers; this degree is called la plume, or the feather. - -The sixth is called le petit casee, and is obtained by boiling the sugar -a little longer: to know this degree have a pint of cold water in a -basin, into which you have put a piece of ice, dip your finger into it, -then into the boiling sugar, and then into the water again, take the -piece which adheres to the finger and bite, if rather crisp, but -sticking to the teeth, it has attained that degree. - -The seventh and last requires great attention, to attain it boil rather -longer, dip your finger in as before, if it cracks and does not at all -adhere to the teeth in biting it is done, take from the fire, and it is -ready for use for making any kind of sugar ornament. - -When intended for such purposes, however, add a little tartaric acid -when it arrives to the degree la plume and pour it into a smaller -sugar-pan, allowing it to reach the rims, it will be then unable to burn -round the sides as if in a larger pan; if such a thing should, however, -happen in a larger pan, wipe the interior of the pan round with a sponge -previously dipped in cold water, or it would discolor the sugar. - -Ornaments of spun sugar I have a very great dislike to for a dinner; -but, if required, the sugar must be boiled to the last degree. Should -the sugar grain it may be brought back by adding more water, and when -dissolved, boiling over again; in spinning sugar you must keep the bulk -of it in a warm temperature, having a little in a smaller pan for use, -which keep in a melted state by placing it in a bain-marie of hot water, -or in a hot closet. - - -832. _Silk Thread, or Spun Sugar._--Having boiled your sugar to the -seventh degree, as in the last, oil the handle of a wooden spoon, tie -two forks together, the prongs turned outwards, dip them lightly into -the sugar, take out and shake them to and fro, the sugar running from -them over the spoon forming fine silken threads, proceeding thus until -you have as much as you require, take it from the spoon and form it with -your hands into whatever may be directed for the garnishing of any dish, -not, however, too thick, or it would look heavy. An experienced hand -would prefer doing it from the lip of the sugar-pan. - -Other kinds of ornaments from sugar are made in a similar manner by -oiling a mould or shape and running fillets of the sugar from the lip of -the pan over it as tastefully as possible, but as I have not referred to -it in this work I will not enter into its details. These are more fit -for suppers than dinners. - - -833. _Vanilla Ice Cream._--Put the yolks of twelve eggs in a stewpan, -with half a pound of sugar, beat well together with a wooden spoon, in -another stewpan have a quart of milk, and when boiling throw in two -sticks of vanilla, draw it from the fire, place on the lid and let -remain until partly cold, pour it over the eggs and sugar in the other -stewpan, mix well, and place it over the fire (keeping it stirred) until -it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a -tammy into a basin, let remain until cold, then have ready a pewter -freezing-pot in an ice-pail well surrounded with ice and salt;[8] put -the above preparation into it, place on the lid, which must fit rather -tightly, and commence twisting the pot round sharply, keeping it turned -for about ten minutes, when take off the lid, and with your spatula -clear the sides of the interior of the pot, place the lid on again, turn -the pot ten minutes longer, when again clear the sides and beat the -whole well together, until smooth, it being then about half frozen, then -add four glasses of noyeau or maresquino and a pint and a half of cream -well whipped, beat the whole well together, place the lid upon the top, -keep twisting it round a quarter of an hour, clear well from the sides, -beat again well together, proceeding thus until the whole is frozen into -a stiff but smooth and mellow substance; should you require to keep it -some time before serving, pour the water which has run from the ice out -of the pail, and add fresh ice and salt; when ready to serve work it up -smoothly with your spatula, fill the mould and proceed as No. 778. - - -834. _Coffee Ice Cream._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but omitting -the noyeau or maresquino, and making an infusion with coffee as directed -(No. 40) instead of vanilla. - - -835. _Ice of Chocolate_ is made similar to the vanilla ice cream, but -omitting the vanilla and liqueur, in the room of which scrape a quarter -of a pound of chocolate, place it in a stewpan over the fire and keep -stirring until melted, then have ready boiling a quart of milk, which -mix with the chocolate by degrees, finish with eggs and sugar, and -freeze as before. - - -836. _Ice of Pine-apple._--Procure a rather small pine-apple, take off -the rind, which reserve, and cut the apple into pieces an inch in length -and about the thickness of a quill, place them in a sugar-pan, with half -a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, set it upon the fire and -reduce to a rather thickish syrup, have ready a pint and a half of milk -upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind of the -pine-apple, cover it over and let infuse ten minutes; in another stewpan -have the yolks of twelve eggs, to which add the milk by degrees -(previously straining it), place over the fire, keeping it stirred until -adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a -basin, add the syrup and pine-apple, and freeze it as in the last, -adding a pint and a half of whipped cream; when half frozen, use where -directed. - - -837. _Lemon Ice Cream._--Take the rind from six lemons as thin as -possible and free from pith, squeeze the juice of the lemons into a -sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water, place it -upon the fire and reduce until rather a thickish syrup, have a pint and -a half of milk upon the fire, into which, when boiling, throw the rind -of the lemons, cover over and let remain until half cold; in another -stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs (to which you have added an ounce -of sugar), with which mix the milk by degrees, and stir over the fire -till it adheres to the back of the spoon, when stir in the syrup and -pass it through a tammy; when cold, freeze as directed (No. 833), adding -a pint of whipped cream when half frozen. - - -838. _Orange Ice Cream._--Proceed precisely as in the last, but using -the juice and rind of ten oranges instead of lemons as there directed. - - -839. _Apricot Ice Cream._--Procure a dozen and a half of fine ripe -apricots, which cut in halves, take out the stones, which break, -extracting the kernels, which blanch in very hot water and skin, then -put them with the apricots into a sugar-pan, with half a pound of sugar -and half a glassful of water, let them boil until almost forming a -marmalade, when put them by in a basin, have the yolks of twelve eggs in -a stewpan, with which mix by degrees a pint and a half of milk, set over -the fire, keeping it stirred until thick enough to adhere to the back of -the spoon, when pass it through a tammy into a basin, add the syrup and -apricots, and, when cold, three glasses of noyeau, freeze as in No. 833, -and, when half frozen, add a pint of good whipped cream. - - -840. _Strawberry Ice Cream._--Procure about two pounds of fine ripe -strawberries, which pick and rub through a hair-sieve with a wooden -spoon, obtaining all the juice and pulp of the strawberries, with which -mix half a pound of powdered sugar and put it by in a basin; in a -stewpan have the yolks of twelve eggs, with which mix by degrees a pint -and a half of milk, stir over the fire until it becomes thickish, -adhering to the back of the spoon, when pass it through a tammy, and -when cold add the juice from the strawberries and three glasses of -maraschino, freeze it as directed (No. 833), adding a pint of whipped -cream when half frozen and sufficiently prepared; cochineal, to give it -a strawberry color, if approved of. - - -841. _Marmalade of Apple._--Peel and cut thirty apples in slices, taking -out the cores, and, if for preserving, to every pound of fruit put three -quarters of a pound of broken sugar (but, if for immediate use, half a -pound would be quite sufficient), place the whole in a large -preserving-pan, with half a spoonful of powdered cinnamon and the rind -of a lemon chopped very fine, set the pan over a sharp fire, stirring it -occasionally until boiling, when keep stirring until becoming rather -thick; it is then done: if for immediate use, a smaller quantity would -be sufficient, which put by in a basin until cold; but if to keep any -time put it in jars, which cover over with paper, and tie down until -wanted. - - -842. _Marmalade of Apricots._--Stone about eight pounds of ripe fleshy -apricots, break the stones, and blanch and skin the kernels, which with -the apricots put into a preserving-pan, add six pounds of sugar and -place it over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally until boiling, when -keep stirring until becoming rather thick, take it off, put it in jars, -and when cold tie paper over, and put by until ready for use. - - -843. _Quince Jam Puree._--Procure a sieve of fine ripe quinces, which -peel and cut in four, taking out the cores, place them in a large -preserving-pan and cover with cold water; set upon the fire, and when -boiling and tender to the touch, place them in a large sieve to drain -one hour, pass them through a tammy, then have ready a corresponding -weight of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831) in the -preserving-pan, to which add the puree of quinces, keep stirring over -the fire till forming thin sheets, drop a little upon the cover of a -stewpan, if it sets quickly take it from the fire, put it in small jars, -and let remain a day until quite cold, when tie them down, and put by -until wanted. - - -844. _Apricot Marmalade Jam._--Procure a quantity of very ripe -apricots, each of which cut into four or six pieces, break the stones -and blanch the kernels, put the apricots in a preserving-pan with a -small quantity of water, boil them until quite tender, when pass them -through a sieve; to every pound of fruit have three quarters of a pound -of sugar (in a preserving-pan) boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831), add -the apricots with their kernels, and keep stirring over the fire, until -forming thin transparent sheets, try when done as in the last, and put -away in pots. The marmalade would be still more transparent if you were -to peel the apricots first, but then you would lose some of their -delicious flavor. - - -845. _Marmalade of Cherries._--Procure a sieve of bright Kentish -cherries, pull out the stalks and stones, and put the fruit in a -preserving-pan, place over the fire, keeping it stirred until reduced to -two-thirds; have in another preserving-pan, to every pound of fruit, -half a pound of sugar boiled to the sixth degree (No. 831), into which -pour the fruit when boiling hot, let reduce, keep stirring until you can -just see the bottom of the pan, when take it from the fire, and fill -your jars as before. - -A plainer way is to take off the stalks and stone the fruit, place them -in a pan over a sharp fire, and to every pound of fruit add nearly a -pound of sugar, keep stirring until reduced as above, and let it get -partly cold in the pan before filling the jars. - - -846. _Strawberry Jam._--Pick twelve pounds of very red ripe -strawberries, which put into a preserving-pan, with ten pounds of sugar -(broken into smallish pieces), place over a sharp fire, keep continually -stirring, boiling it until the surface is covered with clearish bubbles, -try a little upon a cover, if it sets, fill the jars as before. - - -847. _Raspberry Jam._--Pick twelve pounds of raspberries, and pass them -through a fine sieve to extract the seeds, boil as many pounds of sugar -as you have pounds of fruit to the sixth degree (No. 831), when add the -pulp of the fruit, keep stirring over the fire, reducing it until you -can just see the bottom of the pan, take it from the fire, and put it -into jars as before. - - -848. _Jelly of Apple._--Cut six dozen of sound rennet apples in -quarters, take out all the pips, put them into a sugar-pan, just cover -them with cold water, and place over the fire, let boil until the apples -become quite pulpy, when drain them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in -a basin, which afterwards pass through a new and very clean jelly-bag; -to every pint of liquor have one pound of sugar, which boil to the sixth -degree as directed (831); when, whilst hot, mix in the liquor from the -apple with a very clean skimmer; to prevent it boiling over keep it -skimmed, lift the skimmer occasionally from the pan, and when the jelly -falls from it in thin sheets, take it up and fill the pots as before; -the smaller pots are the best adapted for jellies. - - -849. _Jelly of Quince._--Proceed exactly as directed in the last, but -using quinces instead of apples. - - -850. _Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly._--Put half a sieve of fine red -currants in a large stewpan, with a gallon of white currants and a -gallon of raspberries, add a quart of water, place over the fire, keep -stirring, to prevent them sticking to the bottom, and let boil about ten -minutes, pour them into a sieve to drain, catching the juice in a basin -and draining the currants quite dry, pass the juice whilst hot through a -clean jelly-bag, have a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and -proceed precisely as directed for apple jelly. Should you have time to -pick the currants from the stalks previous to boiling, you would lose -that bitter flavor, and have less difficulty in making your jelly clear. - - -851. _Currant Jelly_ is made precisely as in the last, omitting the -raspberries, the difference being in the use; the last being adapted for -the garnishing of pastry, and this to use for sauces, or to serve with -hares, venison, or any other meat, where required. - -A more simple method of making currant jelly is to rub the fruit through -a sieve, and afterwards squeeze it through a fine linen cloth, put it -into a preserving-pan with, to every pint of juice, three quarters of a -pound of white sugar; place over a sharp fire, stirring occasionally -with a skimmer, keeping it well skimmed; it is done when dropping in -sheets as before from the skimmer. For my own part, I prefer this last -simple method, being quicker done, and retaining more of the full -freshness of the fruit. - - It is not my intention to give a description of the various methods - of preserving fruits, which belongs to the confectionery - department; that I shall do in the Letters from the Farm; I have, - however, given the few foregoing receipts, they being required for - reference from various parts of this work, and being all that are - required for the garnishing of dishes for the second course; - various other fruits may, however, be made into marmalades and - jellies by following those few simple directions. - - - - -SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS. - - - You will perceive, my dear Eloise, that there is no end to the - variation of dishing fruits for desserts; the following being more - simple than any, and within the reach of almost every individual. - - -852. _Salad of Oranges._--Select four good oranges, the thinnest rind -ones are preferable; cut them crosswise into slices double the thickness -of a crown-piece, dress them round upon your dish, one piece resting -half-way upon the other; shake one ounce of sifted sugar over, pour over -a good tablespoonful of brandy, and it is ready; to serve it out, put -two pieces upon the plate of each guest, with a spoonful of the syrup. -Slices of red Malta oranges, dressed alternately with the other, has a -pleasing effect. Any kind of liquor may be used, as also might whiskey, -rum, or that white cream or blue devil commonly called g----; dear me, I -quite forget the name. - - -853. _Salad of Strawberries._--Pick the stalks from a pottle of very -fine strawberries, which put into a basin with half a teaspoonful of -powdered cinnamon, two glasses of brandy, and an ounce of sifted sugar, -toss them lightly over, and dress them in pyramid upon your dish, -pouring the syrup over; these should only be dressed a few minutes -before serving; the brandy might be omitted. If handy, a glass of -maraschino, substituted for brandy, makes them delicious. - - -854. _Salad of Peaches._--Procure four ripe peaches, which peel and cut -into quarters; put them into a basin with two ounces of sugar and a -glass of sherry, toss them lightly over, dress upon your dish and serve. -Apricots, greengages, and other plums are dressed in salads in the same -manner, leaving their skins on. - - -855. _Salad of Currants and Raspberries._--Put an equal quantity of -each, making rather more than a pint, into a basin, with two ounces of -powdered sugar-candy, and a little powdered cinnamon, toss them over -lightly, and they are ready to serve. - - -856. _Pine Apples._--I have tried several experiments with the West -Indian pine-apples, many of which being rather stale when they arrive -here, would make an unsightly appearance whole upon the table, but made -into a compote or salad, they are really excellent, having also the -advantage of being very cheap. - -For a _compote_, peel one rather thickly, to leave no black spots upon -it, make a syrup with half a pound of sugar, as directed (No. 831), cut -your pine-apple into round slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, -which put into the syrup, boiling them ten minutes; take them out with a -colander-spoon, reduce the syrup until thickish, and pour it over the -pine-apple; when cold it is ready to serve. - -For a _salad_, peel and cut a pine-apple into small square dice, which -put into a basin with two ounces of sugar-candy (powdered) and a glass -of noyeau, toss all well together and serve. - -For _marmalade_, pair and cut into small pieces several small -pine-apples, and to every quart thus cut up add one pound of fine sugar, -boil for half an hour, and put in a pot. - - -857. _Cake of Savoy in mould._--Have ready a large high mould lightly -buttered (with a soft brush, and clarified butter), turn the mould up to -drain, and when the butter is quite set throw some finely sifted sugar -into it; move the mould round until the sugar has adhered to every part, -after which turn out the superfluous sugar, tie a band of buttered paper -round at the top, and place it in a cool place until the mixture is -ready. Place the yolks of fourteen eggs in a basin, with one pound of -sugar (upon which you have rubbed the rind of two lemons previous to -pounding), beat well together with a wooden spoon until nearly white, -then whip the whites of the eggs very stiff, add them to the yolks and -sugar, with six ounces of flour and six ounces of potato-flour, mix the -whole lightly but well together, and fill the mould rather more than -three parts full, place it in a very moderate oven one hour, keeping the -oven-door shut; then try when done as directed in the last, if done take -off the paper and turn it out upon a sieve until quite cold. The above -mixture being more delicate than the last, would not do so well for -removes, but may be used for that purpose by being made three or four -days before it is required. - - -858. _Savoy Cakes, or Ladies' Fingers._--Have the weight of nine eggs of -sugar in a bowl, which put into a bain-marie of hot water, weigh the -same weight of flour, which sift through a wire sieve upon paper, break -the eggs into a bowl, and proceed as directed for sponge-cake; then with -a paper funnel or bag, with a thin pipe made for that purpose, lay it -out upon papers into biscuits three inches in length and the thickness -of your little finger, sift sugar over, shaking off all that does not -adhere to them; place them upon baking-sheets, and bake in rather a warm -oven of a brownish-yellow color, when done and cold, detach them from -the paper by wetting it at the back, place them a short time to dry, and -they are ready for use for charlotte russe, or wherever directed. - - -859. _Sponge Cake._--Put one pound of powdered sugar in a good-sized -bowl, which stand in a bain-marie of hot water; sift one pound of flour -upon a sheet of paper, then break twelve eggs into the bowl with the -sugar, which whisk rather quickly until they become a little warm and -rather thickish, then take the bowl from the bain-marie, and continue -whisking until nearly or quite cold; then add the chopped rind of a -lemon and the flour, which mix lightly with a wooden spoon; have ready -your mould or baking-dish lightly buttered, into which you have put a -little flour, knocking out all that does not adhere to the butter, pour -in the mixture and place it one hour in a moderate oven, it may require -longer or not so long, but that will depend entirely upon the compass -you have it in; if done it will feel firm to the touch, but the surest -method is to run a thin wooden skewer into the centre, if it comes out -clean the cake is done, but if not some of the mixture would adhere to -it; care should be taken not to disturb it until quite set, or it would -sink in the centre, and never properly bake; when done turn it out upon -a sieve to cool. Serve where indicated. - - -860. _Small Sponge Cakes._--Put six whole eggs into an earthen pan with -half a pound of sugar, upon which you have previously rubbed the rind of -a lemon, stand the pan in very hot water, keeping its contents well -mixed until becoming rather warm, when take it from the water, -continuing to whisk until quite cold and thickish, when stir in gently -half a pound of sifted flour; have ready buttered, and dusted with -sugar, about a dozen small sponge-cake tins, put a tablespoonful of the -mixture into each, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. - - -861. _Pound Cakes._--Put one pound of butter into an earthen pan with a -pound of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, beat them well -together with the hand until forming a smooth lightish cream, when add -by degrees eight eggs, beating it ten minutes after, when add a pound -and a quarter of sifted flour, stir it in lightly, and put the mixture -into hoops to bake. - - -862. _Queen's Cakes._--Weigh of butter the weight of six eggs, and nine -of powdered sugar, which put together in an earthen pan, heat well with -the hand until forming a smooth cream, when add by degrees nine eggs, -and when well beat, stir in the weight of nine eggs of flour and half a -pound of currants; have ready buttered about a dozen little round cake -pans, fill each one rather better than three parts full with the -mixture, shake sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. If no cake -pans, drop the mixture upon paper in pieces half the size of a walnut, -and an inch and a half apart, shake sugar over, bake in a warm oven, -and, when done, remove them from the papers. - -863. _Almond Cakes._--Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add -two pounds of powdered sugar, mixing the whole with the whites of nine -eggs, beating the mixture well with a wooden spoon for about ten -minutes, lay them out upon wafer paper of an oval shape with a -tablespoon, put three or four strips of almonds upon the top of each, -and bake them in a slow oven; when done, break away all the wafer paper -but that which adheres to the bottom of the paper, and, when cold, they -are ready for use. - - -864. _Cocoa-Nut Biscuits._--Scrape four cocoa nuts, to which add the -same weight of powdered sugar, mix with whites of eggs, beating with a -wooden spoon until forming a softish but thick paste; lay the mixture -out upon wafer-paper in small drops, baking them as directed in the -last. - - -865. _Moss Biscuits._--Weigh half a pound of flour, to which add an -ounce and a half of butter and five ounces of sugar, rub them well -together and mix with one whole and one white of egg and a teaspoonful -of milk; then add two ounces of ground almonds, which rub well into the -paste; afterwards rub the whole through a gauze wire sieve, taking it -off in small pieces, which lay upon a lightly-buttered baking-sheet, and -bake them in a moderate oven. - - -866. _Rout Cakes._--Procure one pound of ground almonds, to which add -one pound of powdered sugar, mixing them together with yolks of eggs -until forming a stiffish but flexible paste, when form it into small -biscuits of the shapes of coronets, bunches of filberts, birds' nests, -or any other shapes your fancy may dictate; let them remain five or six -hours, or all night, upon the baking-sheet, and bake them in a warm -oven. - - -867. _Rout Biscuits._--Boil a pound and a quarter of lump sugar, upon -which you have rubbed the rind of a lemon, in half a pint of milk; when -cold, rub half a pound of butter with two pounds of flour, make a hole -in the centre, pour in the milk with as much carbonate of soda as would -lie upon a sixpence, and a couple of eggs, mix the whole into a smooth -paste, lay it out upon your baking-sheet in whatever flat shapes you -please, and bake them in a very warm oven. - -The proper way to shape these biscuits is by wooden blocks having -leaves, pine-apples, and other devices carved upon them. - - -868. _Cream Biscuits._--Rub one pound of fresh butter into one pound of -flour, make a hole in the centre, into which put half a pound of -powdered sugar upon which the rind of a lemon was rubbed previously to -pounding, and three whole eggs, mix the eggs well with the sugar, and -then mix all together, forming a flexible paste; cut it into round -pieces each nearly as large as a walnut, stamp them flat with a -butter-stamp of the size of a crown-piece, and bake them in a slack -oven. - - -869. _Shrewsbury Cakes._--Weigh one pound of flour, into which rub half -a pound of butter and six ounces of flour, make a hole in the centre, -into which break a couple of eggs, and add sufficient milk to form a -flexible paste, which roll out to the thickness of a penny-piece, and -cut it into small cakes with a round cutter; bake them in a moderate -oven. - - -_Ginger Cakes_ are made precisely as the above, but adding half an ounce -of ground ginger before mixing; and _Cinnamon Cakes_, by rubbing in an -ounce and a half of ground cinnamon after the paste is mixed. - - -870. _Macaroons._--Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry -them well in your screen, then put them into a mortar with a pound and a -half of lump sugar, pound well together, and pass the whole through a -wire sieve; put it again into a mortar, with the whites of two eggs, mix -well together with the pestle, then add the white of another egg, -proceeding thus until you have used the whites of about eight eggs and -made a softish paste, when lay them out at equal distances, apart upon -wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the size of walnuts, place some strips of -almonds upon the top, sift sugar over, and bake in a slow oven of a -yellowish brown color; they are done when set quite firm through. - - -871. _Ratafias._--Ratafias are made similar to the above, but deducting -two ounces of sweet, and adding two ounces of bitter almonds; they are -laid out in much smaller cakes upon common paper, and baked in a much -warmer oven; when cold, they may be taken off the paper with the -greatest ease. - -These cakes are very serviceable in making a great many second-course -dishes. - - -872. _Italian Drops._--Have a mixture similar to the above, merely a -liqueur glassful of best noyeau, lay it in round drops upon paper, and -bake in a hot oven without sifting any sugar over; when taken from the -papers, dry them a little in the screen, and they are ready to serve. - -The bottoms may be spread over with apricot marmalade, and two stuck -together just previous to being served, if approved of. - - -873. _St. James's Cake._--Put one pound of very fresh butter in a -good-sized kitchen basin, and with the right hand work it up well till -it forms quite a white cream; then add one pound powdered sugar, mix -well, add ten eggs by degrees; put to dry a pound and a quarter of -flour, which mix as lightly as possible with it; blanch and cut in -slices two ounces of pistachios, two ditto of green preserved angelica, -add two liqueur glasses of noyeau, two drops of essence of vanilla; whip -a gill and a half of cream till very thick, mix lightly with a wooden -spoon. - - - - -LETTER No. XVII - - - THE DINNER-TABLE. - - MY DEAR ELOISE,--I thank you for your kind compliment, but I have - always been of opinion that the arrangements and serving of a - dinner-table, have as much to do with the happiness and pleasure of - a party as the viands which are placed upon it; this I had a - practical proof of last week. Mr. B. and myself were invited to - dine with Mr. D., a city friend, at Balham Hill; I had before met - Mrs. D. at an evening party, at his partner's, at Hackney, and knew - little of her. - - Dinner was served pretty punctually, only half an hour after time. - On my entrance in the room, my first glance at the table showed me - that there was a want of _savoir-faire_ in its management: the - plate, very abundant and splendid, was of so yellow a cast that it - looked as if it were plated, and the cut glass was exceedingly dim. - My first surprise was that there were no napkins, the next the soup - plates were quite cold, which I have found often the case in other - houses; after being served with fish, and waiting until it was cold - for the sauce to eat with it, I was rather sceptical how the rest - of the dinner would progress. After the first, the second course - made its appearance, which was heavy and too abundant; the plain - things were well done, but there was only one servant in the room - for the whole party of fourteen, and from the strict formality of - the table, it would have been a sacrilege to have handed your plate - for any vegetables, or anything else you might require. There were - four saltcellars, certainly very massive silver ones, at each - corner of the table, and a beautiful cruet-frame in the centre; the - hot dishes of this course, like the previous one, became cold and - tasteless before being eaten, and during the time the servant was - serving the champagne, all the plates were empty; in fact it was a - good dinner spoilt. The wine drank with less gout than usual, and - the long pauses between the courses made the formality appear still - greater than it really was, and made you wish for the time to - arrive for the cloth to be removed, which was not done, only the - slips, a most awkward undertaking for one servant, and should never - be practised unless having at least two. - - About half an hour after the cloth was removed, and just as the - conversation was being thawed from the freezing it received at the - dinner-table, Mrs. D. and the ladies withdrew, and for an hour and - a half we had to bear the insipid conversation of the drawing-room, - the hissing urn on the tea-table bearing a prominent part. Several - messages were sent from time to time to the dining-room that coffee - was ready; and when at last the gentlemen came, two had had quite - wine enough, which caused them to receive sundry angry looks from - their wives who were present, and who were glad to get them into - their carriages which were waiting, and right glad indeed was I - when ours was announced. - - This all happened, my dear Eloise, not from meanness; for if money - could have purchased it nothing would have been wanting, but solely - from want of _management_; and every one should think before they - invite their friends to partake of their hospitality, if they know - how to entertain them. Money of course will provide delicacies of - all kinds, but to know how to dispose of those delicacies to the - best advantage, that your friends may appreciate them, is what is - sadly wanting in more than one house I visit. - - A very excellent remark is made in _Punch_ by Mr. Brown, in his - Letters to a Young Man about Town, on the subject of great and - little dinners. He says: "Properly considered the quality of the - dinner is twice blest; it blesses him that gives, and him that - takes; a dinner with friendliness is the best of all friendly - meetings--a pompous entertainment, where no love is, is the least - satisfactory." - - Our dinner on which you compliment me so much, we sat down twelve, - for although the room and table would accommodate more, yet as my - service of plate is for that number, and the arrangements of the - kitchen are limited, that is the number I prefer, besides beyond - which the conversation becomes partial, which is the bane of a - dinner-table. You know we have no regular man-servant, but for - these occasions I hire two, and place one on each side the table, - and they each have their own side table with a change of everything - that is required. The first thing to be looked to is the lights: - these ought to be so placed as not to intercept the view of any - person at the table, but at the same time they ought to be enough - to show everything off to advantage; I prefer removing some of the - lights from the table to the sideboard when the cloth is removed, - as the light after dinner ought to be more subdued. In laying the - cloth we place it over the baize, and remove it after dinner, as - Mr. B. says he likes to see the mahogany, for when he asks a city - friend to come and put his feet under his mahogany, it looks rather - foolish if he never sees it. I have, as you know, my table rather - wide, that is, six feet, and I generally place a vase of flowers in - the centre, as I think their freshness and odor add greatly to the - appearance of the table, and admit a flanc on each side. We prefer - the old English plan of taking the top and bottom of the table, - instead of I and Mr. B. being together at the side. - - The cloth being laid with its proper side uppermost, I order a - napkin, two knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and two - wine-glasses to be placed to each person, a saltcellar between - every other, that being a condiment which every one uses, though - often wrongly; the cruet-frames and other requisites are kept on - the sideboards. I then have the fish and soup served together, the - potatoes and sauce on the sideboard; I serving the soup, and Mr. B. - the fish, and often a little dish of fried fish, such as smelts, - &c., to remove the soups. This gives me an opportunity of seeing - that my guests are properly attended to, and also leisure of taking - wine with any gentleman who challenges me. During the time this - course has been progressing, the cook has had time to dish up the - removes nice and hot, and get all up close to the door, as I like - as little time as possible to intervene in changing the dishes; and - these consist generally of variously dressed chickens, which I have - before me, as this gives an opportunity for the gentleman on my - right to display his gallantry; but, thanks to Soyer's separator, - this is an easy task. This affords me still further leisure to pay - attention to my guests. Mr. B., who is a capital carver, either has - a saddle or a haunch of mutton, or a quarter of lamb before him, - the rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue and entrees. I select - those most easy to carve, and also easy for the cook to prepare. - This is a period of dinner where a great deal depends upon the - attendants; they should know almost by the look what this lady or - that gentleman require, and what kind of vegetables to hand them; a - first-rate butler should be able to judge by the physiognomy to - whom he should offer mint sauce with the lamb, and who prefers - cayenne; on their attention and hot plates, depends the success of - the substantial part of the dinner. - - As soon as I see that all are served, and words are few in - consequence of the organ which utters them being employed in - another way, I give a look to the two servants, which they - understand, and immediately two reports are heard,--they are from - two bottles of champagne, opened at the same time by the - attendants, who have each a salver with six glasses on it; this - takes but a short time to serve, and prepares the palate for the - entrees, which generally get praised; indeed my cook would think - something was wrong if two of the dishes did not go down empty. By - having the champagne thus, I find it goes much further than if only - one bottle was opened at the time, there being sufficient left in - the bottles for a gentleman to challenge a lady to take champagne - with him. If I have game I remove the top and bottom dishes with - them, and make the sweets a separate course, taking care to have - _cold plates_ for the jelly, and having the liquors handed round - when the sweets are on the table; one cheese I place opposite Mr. - B., and macaroni opposite myself. Objections have been made to the - use of napkins, as being of no service at an English dinner-table, - and only a copy of the dirty manners of our neighbors. If we are - more cleanly at the table than they are (which I question), there - is no reason why we should not use that which would make us still - more so; but Mr. B. is so well pleased with the rose water which he - has at the court dinners of his company, that he made me a present - of those two beautiful dishes which you admired so much. The - outside compartment holds rose-water, and the inner one a little - eau-de-cologne; these are placed on salvers, and pass down each - side of the table, the corner of each napkin being dipped into it. - They seem to be absolutely required, and I must say they form a - delightful adjunct to the dinner-table. - - He[9] has also introduced at our table, but _only at Christmas_, - another city custom, which the gentlemen seem very much to like,--I - cannot say so for the ladies; it is what he calls a loving cup; he - has it placed before him when the cheese is put on; and after - filling the glass of the lady on each side of him, he rises and - drinks to their health and the rest of the company, and then passes - it to the gentleman on the left, who, in like manner, fills the - glass of the lady on his left, rises, drinks to her health and the - company, and thus it goes round the table. Your husband, my dear - Eloise, thought that the contents were exceedingly good, or, as he - expressed it, nectar fit for the gods, and would like to have the - receipt,--here it is as Mr. B. prepares it:--The cup holds two - quarts; he places in it half a teacupful of capillaire; if he has - none, he uses dissolved lump sugar, with a few drops of - orange-flower water in it, one pint of brown sherry, one bottle of - good _Edinburgh_ ale, mixing these together, and a minute before - placing on the table, adding one bottle of soda water, stirring it - well up till it froths; he then grates some nutmeg on the froth, - and places a piece of toast in it, and sends it to the table with a - napkin through the handle of the cup. I must say, since we have had - this, it has produced some most interesting conversation as - regarded the antiquity of the custom, &c. In addition, Mr. B. - bought the cup at a sale, and it is stated to have been drunk out - of by Henry the Eighth: this of itself is a subject of - conversation, and draws out the talents and conversational powers - of our guests, and one in which ladies can join, as there is hardly - one of our sex who has not read Miss Strickland's "Queens of - England." You have often made the remark, that the time always - appears short whilst we are at table; this is, no doubt, from the - animated conversation which is kept up, for that is the real motive - of meeting together, to enjoy the conversation of one another, to - gain and impart information, and amuse ourselves with the wit and - talent of those around us, and not for the sake of eating and - drinking; yet without the assistance of both of these, the most - sparkling wit would be as heavy as a bad souffle, and the brightest - talent as dull as my looking-glass on a foggy day. - - In order to prolong the time, and to enjoy the gentlemen's society - as much as possible, I do not have the dessert placed on the table - until ten or twenty minutes after the cloth is removed; this also - gives an opportunity for my guests to admire the beautiful Sevres - dessert plates, containing views of the French chateaux; this of - course gives a subject for conversation to those who have visited - them. In the dessert I generally introduce some new importation, - such as bananas, sugar-cane, American lady apples, prickly pears, - &c.; these also give a subject for the gentlemen to talk about when - the ladies have left, as free trade, colonial policy, &c. About - half an hour after the dessert is on the table, and when I see that - the conversation is becoming less general, I retire to the - drawing-room; the servants then remove the dirty glass and plates, - and Mr. B. introduces some of his choice claret or Burgundy in ice - coolers. - - You know, my dear Eloise, I allow very little more than half an - hour for us to talk about the last new fashions, or of Mrs. A. and - B.'s cap, and the young ones about their partners at the last ball, - and other nothings, when the tea and coffee are brought up on - salvers; it is always made down stairs, and sent up in cups to the - drawing-room, although Mr. B. had a very handsome silver service - presented to him just after we were married, for serving as an - honorary secretary to some grand masonic festival, yet the milk - ewer and sugar basin are all I allow in the room. This does away - with the formality of the tea-table and the hissing of the tea-urn; - it allows some young gentlemen with a Byron collar and a little - down under his chin to turn over the pages of a music-book for a - young lady at the piano, and make his coffee at the same time; it - allows my dear mamma and Mr. P. to make up their whist table, and - have their tea whilst playing; or, if we make up a quadrille, to - have a few turns of a waltz or polka, the coffee is serving during - the time; whilst this is going on the hand of the clock advances, - and half-past ten soon arrives, and with it Mrs. C.'s fly; Dr. D.'s - brougham is at the door; the party breaks up, delighted with the - evening they have passed in each other's society: and this you see - done with trifling management. - - - - -LETTER No. XVIII - - - DEAREST ELOISE,--You are right in your remark, that there is a - great difference as to the manner and way in which evening parties - or soirees are given in different houses, although being frequented - by the same party or circle. I must say I have my own ideas on this - subject, and I think the French understand this matter much better - than we do, and that we could not do better than imitate them. We - English are a plodding, matter-of-fact people, and carry our - notions into every concern in life: our dinners and entertainments - are given with an ulterior object, and with a view of what may be - gained from it, even from the charitable dinner at the London - Tavern to the man who asks another to partake of a pint of beer - with him at a public-house. It is this, together with ostentation, - which is the bane of society, by bringing together people of - incongruity of ideas, destroying that free exchange of thought - which constitutes the true pleasure of social reunions; we are also - naturally of a reserved and cautious disposition: hence the reason - why the pleasures of a soiree are not felt until after supper. Of - these I am a great advocate, though not to the extravagant and - outre manner many are given in the present day. Of course in the - way most ladies are now educated, they would rather be attending to - the adornment of their persons for the occasion than to the - entertainment and amusement of their guests. Those who can afford - it, are quite right to patronize a first-rate confectioner, and - thus save themselves the trouble; but how many that cannot afford - it do the same thing, and make a bargain for a bad supper with one, - by which he gains little, and the guests great disgust, instead of - doing it at home and ordering a few good things which would look - and eat well. There are a variety of drinks which could be made at - a moderate expense, good and wholesome, and infinitely better than - bad Marsala, which you are often obliged to partake of. I will - enclose you a few receipts for them, and some bills of fare for - suppers for small soirees. - - - - -BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES. - - -874. _Lemonade._--Peel six lemons free from pith, cut them up in small -pieces, and put them with two cloves in a bottle, with half a pint of -hot water, and place it in a bain-marie, or stewpan, with boiling water, -and let it stand by the side of the fire for one or two hours, taking -care it does not boil; remove it and let it remain until cold; then take -half a pint of lemon-juice, half a pint of capillaire--if none, use -sugar, that will make the same quantity of syrup--to which add a few -drops of orange-flower water; add the infusion of the rind, stir well -together, and add two quarts of cold water. The acidity of some lemons -is greater than others, in which case, and also if using lime-juice, -more capillaire must be used. - - -875. _Cold Punch._--Proceed as above for lemonade, but add one pint of -capillaire to half a pint of lemon-juice, one pint of pale brandy, one -pint of pale rum, one tablespoonful of arrack, and five quarts of cold -water; let it remain some time before it is decantered. - - -876. _Port Wine Negus._--Take one quart of new port wine, of a fruity -character, one tablespoonful of spirit of cloves, one teacupful of -sugar, one lemon sliced, half a nutmeg grated, pour over these two -quarts of boiling water. - - -877. _White Wine Fillip._--Take one bottle of sherry or Madeira, or -champagne, or any other good white wine, a gill of noyeau or maraschino, -the juice of half a lemon, add to it one quart of calf's foot jelly well -sweetened and boiling hot, and serve immediately. - - -878. _Sandwiches._--In making a large quantity, a stale quartern loaf -should be taken and trimmed free from all crust, and cut into slices the -eighth of an inch in thickness, slightly buttered, and then thin slices -of meat, nicely trimmed, may be laid on and covered with another slice -of bread, and then cut into eight parts; should they be but some time -before they are wanted, they ought to be put one over the other, as they -thus keep moist,--a little mustard and salt may be added to the meat, if -preferred. Some thin slices of gherkin may be added to the meat, and the -same plan can be adopted with pickled fish, brawn or sausages. - -The following varies the common mode of making sandwiches: - -Take a small quantity of very fresh cream cheese, put it into a basin or -a marble mortar, add some salt, pepper, and a little mustard, beat it -well up until it is of the same consistence as butter; if too hard add a -little of the latter, and use it as butter on the bread, with slices of -meat between. Or make it into salad sandwiches:--cover the bread as -before, and have ready some mustard and cress and water-cresses well -washed and dried, put into a bowl with mayonnaise sauce, and when ready -to serve place it neatly between the bread. - - - - -LETTER No. XIX - - - ---- Farm, Essex, July --, 1849. - - MY DEAR ELOISE,--You are no doubt surprised at receiving this from - the above address, but you remember when you last called I thought - my little Emily was unwell, the next day she seemed worse, I then - had the Dr.--, who ordered her out of town, and a friend of Mr. - B.'s being present recommended this place; so Emily and I have now - been a week here, and she has already improved by the change of - air; it has also done me good, and I am greatly amused with the - various occupations going on in the farm, which is an old-fashioned - one, tenanted by a good old English farmer, his wife, and son; the - latter is gone to see a brother settled in Liverpool. The - cleanliness and regularity of the house are quite charming; but - what delights me more than all is the dairy--such delicious cream - and butter that it makes me quite envy people living in the - country! - - I must describe the pretty dairy to you: it is situated at the back - of the house, and sheltered by it from the mid-day and afternoon's - sun, and from the morning's sun by a plantation, so that it is - deliciously cool; it is about twelve feet long by ten wide, paved - with flat stones, and the walls of plaster, like stone, a door at - one end with a window above and a window high up at the other end, - and two windows at the side; these have thin wire shutters and - glazed sashes on hinges; the roof is of slate, with about two feet - thickness of thatch over it; there are also several little openings - for the admission of air, about one inch from the floor. A dresser, - two feet wide, being two inches from the wall, is on both sides, - and above these are two shelves of nine inches wide, also two - inches from the wall, these are supported on iron brackets. At the - end, and opposite the door, is the churn, which is turned by a - wheel outside, with apparatus for a donkey or mule to work it, if - required. - - All the utensils are of sycamore wood and perfectly clean, never - used twice without washing in hot water with soda put in it, and - made perfectly dry. - - There are as many ways of making butter as there are counties in - Great Britain. I will now tell you how it is practised here. The - cows are milked at a regular hour, not later than five, the milk - taken as soon as possible into the dairy, and placed in the dishes - about six quarts in each; is thus left for twenty-four hours; then - it is skimmed, and the cream from each is placed in a deep bowl or - pan, where it remains until the next day, when it is churned. - Friday's milk is made into cheese; when churned it is gathered - well together from the milk and laid in a clean bowl, with hard - spring water in it, and worked to and fro until it is brought to a - firm consistence; it is then laid out thin, and then what is called - here a scotcher is taken--that is, a kind of five-pronged fork of - wood, only each prong is as sharp as a knife, and drawn through - every part of it; then whatever salt is required is added, and it - is then formed into pats, or done any way they like. If intended as - corned or salt butter, they then add one pound of fine salt to - every fourteen pounds of butter; in some places the coarsest - grained salt is used; in others two pounds of salt, one pound of - saltpetre, and one pound of white sugar mixed together, one fourth - of this for every fourteen pounds. If intended for keeping, it is - put into stone crocks until it is wanted. The way in which they - make the cheese here is as follows: all Friday's milk is taken, - that of the morning is kept until the afternoon, and mixed with it; - then two spoonfuls of rennet to every twelve quarts of milk are put - to it and well mixed, it is then left all night. Very early the - next morning the curd is removed with a strainer and equally broken - into the cheese vat or mote until it is about one inch above the - brim, a cheese cloth or strainer having previously been put at the - bottom of the vat, and large enough to allow for part of it to be - turned over the top when the vat is filled; when thus filled it is - taken to the press, and left for two hours with a clean cloth under - it; it is then turned over on the cloth, and pressed again; and the - same process is continued three or four hours out of the - twenty-four. It is then removed and placed on the shelf, and turned - regularly every day for the first two months; after that - occasionally. - - I intend to try my hand at it shortly, and see what I can make of - it. - - I find that the butter which is made here and potted for winter use - is not intended to be sold as salt, but as fresh, and the - dairy-maid has just told me how it is done. For every quart of new - milk from the cow, she takes one pound of potted butter, which has - been treated thus the day previous: into two quarts of cold water - two tablespoonfuls of vinegar are mixed, and the potted butter well - broken and kneaded in it, and then taken out, and served the same - in fresh water, in which it is left until the next morning, and - then mixed with the milk, put into the churn and churned again, and - then treated in the usual way as butter; by this plan there is a - large quantity of sweet milk always in the farm, as it is - exceedingly good when strained. - - The following is the way they make the clouted cream:-- - - -879. _Clouted Cream._--Strain the milk as soon as it comes from the cow -into wide pans, holding about six quarts each, so as to be about three -inches deep, and let it remain for twenty-four hours; then gently place -the pan upon a hot plate or slow charcoal fire, which must heat it very -gently, for if it boils it is spoilt; as soon as the cream forms a ring -in the middle, remove a little with the finger, and if there are a few -bubbles rise in the place where you do so, it is done, which will be in -half to three quarters of an hour; remove it from the fire, and let it -remain twenty-four hours; then skim it, and throw a little sugar on the -top. - - - - -CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS. - - - _Mrs. R._ After all the receipts and information which you have - given me, there is one which you have not touched upon yet, which, - perhaps, is of more importance than all the rest, it is the - management of servants. - - _Mrs. B._ You are right, my dear, it is of great importance, and - more so than many of us imagine, as for myself I do not consider - that I am a good manager, being perhaps of too forgiving a - disposition; but there is one good quality which I possess which - makes up for the want of others, that is exactitude; by enforcing - this it causes all to know their place, and perform their work. - - _Mrs. R._ But what surprises me is to see everything so well done - and clean with so few servants; you seem to have but two maid - servants, the cook, house-maid, and coachman. - - _Mrs. B._ Yes, that is all, and I generally find that they are - enough for the work, unless I have a dinner party, and then of - course, as you know, I have extra men; but I will tell you how I - pass the day, and then you will be able to judge. - - We are what are called early risers, that is, Mr. B. is obliged to - leave home every week day at twenty minutes past nine; our - breakfast is on the table at half-past eight; the breakfast parlor - having previously been got ready, as the servants rise at seven. We - are, when we have no visitors, our two selves, the three children, - and the governess. The children, in summer time, have had a walk - before breakfast, but before leaving their room they uncover their - beds, and if fine open the windows, if a wet morning about two - inches of the top sash is pulled down. The servants get their - breakfast at the same time as we do, as we require hardly any or no - waiting upon, everything being ready on the table. In a former - letter I told you what was our breakfast some years since when in - business, now we have placed on the table some brown bread, rolls - and dry toast; the butter is in a glass butter-dish, and the eggs - are brought up when we have sat down to table. The urn is placed on - the table, as I make my own tea and coffee; the cocoa is made down - stairs. - - You will perhaps be surprised when I say that I make the coffee for - breakfast myself, but I have done so for some little time past, - having found that when made in the kitchen it never came up twice - alike, but now we always have it delicious. - - I lately purchased a coffee-pot which enables me to do it in the - very best manner, with no more trouble than I have in making the - tea. I mentioned it in my receipts for coffee, and said it was - invented by a Mr. S., which letter was inserted by mistake instead - of C. which it ought to be. It is called Carey's Hecla. It makes - the very best coffee at one short operation, and is so contrived as - to produce it almost boiling hot; in fact, never permitting the - great mistake of boiling the coffee itself at all. - - Mr. B. generally leaves home in the brougham, which returns in time - for me; in case I should be going out, he then goes in a cab or - omnibus. Whilst we are at breakfast, I generally consult Mr. B. - what he would like for dinner, and if he is likely to invite any - friend to dine with him; the fishmonger has previously sent his - list and prices of the day. I then write with a pencil on a slip of - paper the bill of fare for the nursery dinner, luncheon, should any - be required, and our dinner, which I send to the cook. At ten - o'clock I go down stairs into the kitchen and larder, when the cook - gives me her report, that is everything that is required for the - next twenty-four hours' consumption, including the servants' - dinner, which report is filed in the larder and made to tally with - the week's list, for I must tell you that the week's consumption of - all things that will not spoil is had in on the Saturday, on which - day the larder is properly scoured out, and everything put again - into its proper place, there being bins for all kinds of - vegetables, &c. The larder is generally kept locked, the cook and I - only having keys, because it is in fact a larder, and not, as in - many houses, full of emptiness; this occupies about half an hour, - during which time the chambermaids have been attending to the - bed-rooms and drawing-room, &c. If I go out or not, I always get my - toilet finished by twelve o'clock; I thus have one hour to write - notes, or see tradesmen or my dressmaker, and Monday mornings check - and pay my tradesmen's accounts, and to dress. If I stop at home, I - amuse myself by reading, or going to see the children in the - nursery, or sometimes go again into the kitchen and assist the cook - on some new receipt or preparation, and often have several calls; - during the course of the morning the two maids scour out - alternately one or two of the rooms, according to size, except on - Wednesdays, when one of them is otherwise engaged. - - Mr. B. arrives home at twenty minutes to five, and at half-past - five we dine: the cloth is laid, and everything prepared as if we - had company; it may be a little more trouble for the servants; but - when we do have any friends they find it less trouble; besides it - is always uncertain but what Mr. B. may bring somebody home with - him, and it prevents slovenly habits; the two maids, with the - exception of Wednesdays, are always ready to attend on us. I never - allow the coachman to defile our carpets with his stable shoes; all - his duties in the house are--the first thing in the morning to - clean the knives and forks for the day, for enough are kept out for - that purpose, clean the boots and shoes, and those windows the - maids cannot easily get at, and assist in the garden if required. - Many have made the remark to me, that as you have a male servant - why not have him wait at table. I reply that the duties of the - stable are incompatible with those of the table, and if he does his - duty properly he has enough to do. The servants dine at one, and - have tea at quarter to five, by which time the cook has everything - ready, all but to take it from the fire, and the maids the - dining-room ready. The nursery dinner is at the same hour; after - dinner, should we be alone, we have the children and the governess - down; if we have company we do not see them; they go to bed at a - quarter to eight, and we have tea and coffee at eight; the - governess comes and passes the rest of the evening with us; eleven - is our usual hour of retiring, before which Mr. B. likes his glass - of negus, a biscuit, or a sandwich, which is brought upon a tray. - - _Mrs. L._--What you have described to me is all very well, yet I am - certain, that if I go and try to do the same to-morrow, I shall not - succeed; how is it that you have everything in its place, and I - never hear a word said to the servants? - - _Mrs. B._--It is because they all know their duties, and if they - should in any way neglect them, I think of the maxim, bear and - forbear, for none of us are perfect, and I take an opportunity when - I may be alone with them to tell them quietly of their faults. Some - mistresses will go into the kitchen and be angry with them before - the other servants; the consequence is, that as soon as her back is - turned they all begin to laugh. A ridiculous incident of this kind - occurred the other evening at Mrs. G.'s. We missed her out of the - drawing-room just before tea, and it appeared that her young boy - Fred, followed her; whilst we were at tea he was very - communicative, as children sometimes will be (l'enfant terrible), - and said, "We have been having such fun in the kitchen." On inquiry - he said, "My mother has been down stairs scolding Jane, and I hid - myself behind the door; and when my mother had gone up, Betsy the - cook spoke and moved her hands just like mamma; it made us all - laugh so, it was such fun." I need not tell you it was no fun for - Mrs. G., who looked rather annoyed. We should ever remember, that - we have our feelings, and should also think that others have - theirs; and I think it is as much the mistress's fault when - anything goes wrong in the house, as the servants'. I only lose my - servants when they get married, or from ill health, and the only - thing that I find bad, is, that they quarrel amongst themselves, - but should this occur thrice with the same two, I dismiss them - both. I am certain, that if you teach your servants to take care of - themselves, they are certain to take care of you. I continually - hear Mrs. M. complaining of changing her servants, and that seems - to be her sole occupation. Poor thing, she has no children, and - nothing to occupy her mind, and without occupation the mind becomes - diseased, and the least action throws it into fever. Mrs. N. - complains of the extravagance of her servants; it is her own - extravagance, or, more properly speaking, her want of management - which causes all; but this I really think, that if everybody were - more cautious in receiving and giving characters to servants other - than what they are, we should not hear the continual complaint we - do, when often assembled in the drawing-room after dinner, when, - perhaps, some dear old lady complains of the education given to - young people of the present day, and that, in time, there will be - no such thing as servants. To some extent I am of her opinion, and - consider that the education given by all classes to their children, - is a great deal more ornamental than useful. I would rather see - the child taught some of the accomplishments of housekeeping, than - that she should be considered as the mere ornament of the - drawing-room. I think it is the bounden duty of every mother, where - the income of the husband may be dependent on trade or profession, - to give her children that education which even the most adverse of - circumstances may call upon them to assume. Look at the - advertisements which appear in the public press every day!--Young - girls offering themselves as governesses, to be remunerated by - their board; whereas, if they had been educated with a knowledge of - some useful employment, they would have made good ladies' maids or - housekeepers, or useful wives to tradesmen. - - - - -BILLS OF FARE. - - -When I was first married and commencing business, and our means were -limited, the following was our system of living: - - _Sunday's Dinner._--Roast-Beef, Potatoes, Greens, and Yorkshire - Pudding. - - _Monday._--Hashed Beef and Potatoes. - - _Tuesday._--Broiled Beef and Bones, Vegetables, and Spotted Dick - Pudding. - - _Wednesday._--Fish if cheap, Chops and Vegetables. - - _Thursday._--Boiled Pork, Peas Pudding, and Greens. - - _Friday._--Peas Soup, Remains of Pork. - - _Saturday._--Stewed Steak with Suet Dumpling. - -The Sunday's dinner I used to vary, one time Beef, another Mutton, -another Pork or Veal, and sometimes a Baked Sucking Pig; our living -then, including a good Breakfast and Tea, cost us about 32_s._ per week. - -In case we had a few friends, we used to make an addition by having one -Fish, Leg of Mutton, Roast Fowls, Pickled Pork, and Peas Pudding, with a -Mould Pudding and Fruit Tart, and a little dessert. - -This was for the first two years; our means and business then -increasing, and having the three young men to dine with us, we were of -course obliged to increase our expenditure and to alter our mode of -living, besides which I had accompanied Mr. B. to France, where my -culinary ideas received a great improvement. - -The following is the plan we then adopted: - - _Sunday._--Pot-au-Feu, Fish--Haunch of Mutton or a Quarter of Lamb, - or other good joint--Two Vegetables--Pastry and a Fruit Pudding--A - little Dessert. - - _Monday._--Vermicelli Soup made from the Pot-au-Feu of the day - previous--The Bouilli of the Pot-au-Feu--Remains of the Mutton--Two - Vegetables--Fruit Tart. - - _Tuesday._--Fish--Shoulder of Veal stuffed--Roast Pigeons, or - Leveret, or Curry--Two Vegetables--Apples with Rice, and light - Pastry. - - _Wednesday._--Spring Soup--Roast Fowls, Remains of Veal minced, and - Poached Eggs--Two Vegetables--Rowley Powley Pudding. - - _Thursday._--Roast-Beef--Remains of Fowl--Two Vegetables--Sweet - Omelette. - - _Friday._--Fish--Shoulder of Lamb--Miroton of Beef--Two - Vegetables--Baked Pudding. - - _Saturday._--Mutton Broth--Boiled Neck Mutton--Liver and Bacon--Two - Vegetables--Currant Pudding. - -Our parties then, when we had them, never consisted of more than ten. - -We had: Julienne Soup--Fish--a quarter of Lamb--Vegetables, -Cutlets--Vegetables, Bacon and Beans--Boiled Turkey--Pheasant--Jelly or -Cream--Pastry--Lobster Salad--Omelette or Souffle--Dessert, &c. - -At present, though the number of our establishment is not greater, yet -the style and manner of our living have changed. We dine alone, except -when Mr. B. invites somebody to dine with him, which is most generally -the case; our daily bill of fare consists of something like the -following:-- - -One Soup or Fish, generally alternate--One Remove, either Joint or -Poultry--One Entree--Two Vegetables--Pudding or Tart--A little Dessert. - -This may seem a great deal for two persons; but when you remember that -we almost invariably have one or two to dine with us, and the remains -are required for the breakfast, lunch, nursery and servants' dinners, -you will perceive that the dinner is the principal expense of the -establishment, by which means you are enabled to display more liberality -to your guests, and live in greater comfort without waste. Our parties -at present, to many of which you have constantly been, and therefore -know, vary according to the season; here are a few bills of fare of -them; the following is one for two persons:-- - -One Soup, say Puree of Artichokes--One Fish, Cod Slices in Oyster -Sauce--Remove with Smelts or White Bait. - - _Removes._--Saddle of Mutton--Turkey in Celery Sauce. - - _Two Entrees._--Cutlets a la Provencale--Sweetbreads larded in any - White Sauce. - - _Two Vegetables._--Greens--Kale--Potatoes on the Sideboard. - - -SECOND COURSE. - - _Two Roasts._--Partridges--Wild Ducks. Jelly of - Fruit--Cheesecakes--Meringue a la Creme--Vegetable--French Salad on - the Sideboard. - - _Removes._--Ice Pudding--Beignet Souffle. _Dessert_ of eleven - dishes. - -The following is one for a birthday party, which generally consists of -twenty persons:-- - - -FIRST COURSE. - - Two Soups--Two Fish. - - _Removes._--Haunch of Mutton--Broiled Capons a l'Ecarlate. - - _Flancs._--Fricandeau of Veal--Currie of Fowl. - - _Entrees._--Fillets of Beef, sauce Tomate--Cutlets Soubise--Oyster - Patties, or Little Vol-au-Vent; Croquettes of Veal or Fowl.[10] - - -SECOND COURSE. - - Wild Ducks--Guinea Fowl larded--Charlotte Russe--Punch Jelly, - Crusts of Fruit--Flanc Meringue--Apple with Rice--Scolloped - Oysters--Mayonnaise of Fowl--Sea Kale or Asparagus. - - _Removes._--Turban of Conde Glacee--Cheese Souffle a la Vanille. - _Dessert_ of nineteen dishes. - -The bills of fare for our small evening parties, say thirty persons, are -as follows; everything is cold, although I know that the fashion has -been progressing towards having hot removes. - -Our table on those occasions is, as you know, in the form of a -horseshoe, which, in my opinion, is the most sociable after that of a -round one, and upon the sociability of the supper depends in a great -measure the success of the party. In the centre, and at the head of the -table, I place a large Grouse-pie, the same as Nos. 249, 285, of which, -by my recommendation, everybody partakes; I then on each of the wings -have Fowls, Lobster Salads, Mayonnaises of Fowl, Ham, Tongue, cut in -slices, and dished over parsley, ornamented with Aspic Jelly; and on the -sideboard I have a fine piece of Sirloin of Beef, plain roasted, or an -Aitch-Bone of Beef, or Fillet of Veal. Should there be no game, I have a -Turkey or Fowls en Galantine, instead of the Grouse-pie, or if game is -plentiful, I have less poultry, and add roast Pheasants--mind, not fowls -with black legs larded, and a pheasant's tail put to them, but real -ones,--or Partridges or Grouse, or a fine Salad of Game. - -With the Sweets I generally place about twelve--four on each table, that -is 4 Jellies, 2 Creams, 2 Bavaroises, 4 Iced Cabinet Puddings, and 4 -Raised Dishes of small Pastry, all of which are artistically disposed -upon the table. - -The fruits are likewise placed on the table: they consist of simple -Compotes, 6 of various kinds and 6 of Dried Fruit, Biscuits, Wafers and -Cossacks, which last are getting much out of fashion, but are very -amusing. - -The following is the Bill of Fare for Mr. B.'s Birthday Party, for which -he allows me L15, with which I find everything in the shape of -refreshments, with the exception of wine; it is-- - -One Raised Pie--Two Mayonnaises of Fowl--Two Lobster Salads--One Piece -of Roast Beef--Four Dishes of Fowl--Two Dishes of Pheasant--Four Dishes -of Tongue--Four Dishes of Ham--Four Jellies with Fruit--Two Creams with -Noyeau--Two Flancs with Apple Meringue--Two Iced Cabinet Puddings--Two -Puddings a la Eloise--Six Various Pastry--Eight Various Compotes--Four -Pieces Montees in China with Bonbons, Cossacks, &c.--Four of Fruit, as -Pears, Grapes, &c.--Four of Dried Fruit, &c.--Four of Biscuits, &c. - -This perhaps may appear extravagant, but we always have them, some -country friends stopping a few days with us, so that I manage to make -the best of everything, and make my week's account look very well. We -sometimes have as many as sixty on an evening. - -Our Children's Parties are as follows, there are generally about fifty -present: - - 16 Dishes of Sandwiches. 4 Dishes of Lamb. 4 Dishes of Ham. 4 do. - of Slices of Beef. 4 do. of Tongue. 6 do. of Fowls. 10 Dishes of - Slices of Galantine of Veal. 1 Dish of Dressed Beef. 24 Dishes of - Various Pastry, Custards, Jellies, Bonbons, &c. - -But I remember when in business, on those occasions we only used to have -a large quantity of Sandwiches and Patties, and used to amuse the -children by labelling the Dishes as Sandwiches of Peacock's Tongues, -Patties of Partridge's Eyes, &c., and also a large quantity of plain -Sweets; and at that period Mr. B.'s birthday party was not so extensive -or _recherche_ as at present. It consisted of something like the -following: - -A Roast Turkey--2 Dishes of Fowls--1 Ham--2 Pigeon Pies--1 Piece of -Boiled Beef--4 Lobsters--4 Salads--4 Jellies--4 Tarts--4 of Preserved -Fruit, &c.--4 of Pastry; with about twelve of various kinds of Fruit, -&c. - -You will have seen by the previous Bills of Fare that I have not at all -encroached upon the high-class cookery, they being selected from the -receipts I have given you; in order that you may see the difference, I -inclose the Bill of Fare, of a dinner given by--Bass, Esq., M. P., at -the Reform Club, the other day, and a copy of yesterday's _Post_, -containing one given in the country. You will find that the dishes -mentioned in these Bills of Fare are not to be found in our receipts. - - REFORM CLUB, - _7 Juillet, 1849._ _Diner pour 18 Personnes._ - - Rissoletes a la Pompadour. - Petites Croquantes aux oeufs de Rougets. - - Rissoletes a la Pompadour. - Petites Croquantes aux oeufs de Rougets. - - Deux Potages. - One Thick Turtle. - One Clear Ditto. - - * * * * * - - Deux Poissons. - _Crimped Salmon_, Turbot - en Matelote Normande. a la Richelieu. - - * * * * * - - Deux Releves. - La Hanche de Venaison aux haricots verts. - Les Poulardes en Diademe. - - * * * * * - - Six Entrees. - Vol-au-Vent de Foies gras a la Talleyrand. - Cotelettes d'Agneau demi Provencale. - Petits Canetons Canaris aux jeunes legumes glacees. - Noix de Veau demi grasse a la puree de concombres. - Ortolans a la Vicomtesse. - Aiguillettes de petits Poussins a la Banquiere - - * * * * * - - Deux Rotis. - Les _Turkey Poults_ piques et bardes, - garnis de Cailles aux feuilles de vignes. - Les Jeunes Levrauts au jus de groseilles. - - * * * * * - - Huit Entremets. - - Gelee a l'eau de vie Flanc d'Abricots - de Dantzick. aux Liqueurs. - Aspic de Homard Quartiers d'Artichaux - a la Gelee. a la Venitienne. - Petits Pois Gateau Milanais - a l'Anglaise. au Parmesan. - Pain de Peches Bombe Glacee - au Noyau. au Cafe Moka, - - * * * * * - - Jambon en surprise glace - a la Vanille. - _Pudding_ a la Mephistophiles. - - A. SOYER. - - -FESTIVITIES AT GRENDON HALL. - -A series of festivities are taking place at the seat of Sir George -Chetwynd, Bart., Grendon Hall, Atherstone, Warwickshire, to celebrate -the christening of Sir George's infant grandson. The christening took -place on Tuesday, at Grendon church, and in the evening a grand dinner -was given in celebration of the event, under the able superintendence of -M. Alexis Soyer. As the dinner, which was provided for twenty persons, -was of a very _recherche_ description, we subjoin the bill of fare. - - Deux Potages. - One of Clear Turtle. - Ditto a la Nivernaise. - - * * * * * - - Deux Poissons. - - Crimped Severn Salmon Turbot - a la Regence. a la Cardinal. - - * * * * * - - Deux Releves. - - La Hanche de Venaison. Deux Poulardes a la Nelson. - - * * * * * - - Rissolettes de Foie - gras a la Pompadour. - - Rissolettes de Foie - gras a la Pompadour. - - Six Entrees. - - Les Ortolans a la Vicomtesse. - Epigramme d'Agneau a la puree de concombres. - Grenadins de Veau aux petits pois. - Filets de Caneton au jus d'orange. - Cotelettes de Mouton a la Provencale. - Turban de Volaille a la Perigord. - - * * * * * - - Deux Rotis. - - Cailles bardees aux feuilles de vignes. - Gelinottes des Ardennes. - - * * * * * - - Huit Entremets. - - Turban de Meringues Pain de Fruit - aux Pistaches. aux Peches. - Galantine Croutades d'Artichaux - a la Voliere. a l'Indienne. - Vegetable Marrow Miroton de Homard - a la Bechamel. a la Gelee. - Bavaroise Mousseuse Blanche Creme - a l'Ananas. au Marasquin. - - * * * * * - - Ices. Deux Releves. St. James's - Pine Apple Hure de Sanglier en surprise glace Cake, - and a la Vanille. the first - Strawberry. Petits Biscuits souffles a la Creme. ever made. - -After dinner M. Soyer had the honor of presenting the youthful heir the -proof copy of his new work on Cookery. - -_Morning Post, July 26, 1849._ - - - - -LETTER XX - - - A NEW ALIMENT. - -Bifrons Villa. - - Here, dear Eloise, is an entirely new aliment, which has never yet - been introduced into this country. A semi-epicure of our - acquaintance, on returning from his visit to the National Guard of - France, presented me with a pound of it, which he had purchased in - Paris; but even there, said he, it is almost in its infancy; you - may fancy, if I were not anxious of making an immediate trial of - it; but before I give you the receipt how to use it, let me tell - you I have found it most delicious. Mr. B. has not yet tasted it, - being for a week in the country, but I am confident he will like - it, especially for breakfast: but the puzzle is, after my pound is - used, how we are to get more? Time, I suppose, will teach us. It - appears that we are indebted for it to a celebrated French - gentleman, M. le Docteur Lamolte, the inventor of the electric - light, who ingeniously, though oddly, named it Cho-ca, being a - scientific composition of _chocolat_ and _cafe_, the alliance of - which balancing admirably their excellence and virtue, and partly - correcting their evils, the first being rather irritable, the - second heavy. But I think, if my recollection serves me rightly, - the idea of this compound must have originated from that great - French philosopher, M. de Voltaire, who constantly, for his - breakfast, partook of half cafe-au-lait and half chocolate, which - were served at the same time in separate vessels in a boiling - state, and poured from each slowly, about eighteen inches in - elevation from his cup, which, he said, made it extremely light and - digestible. - - Years after, that still more extraordinary man, Napoleon Bonaparte, - became so partial to it, that he made a constant use of it, and it - has often been remarked by those who surrounded his person, that - after the great excitement and fatigue of a battle he has often - partaken of two or three cups, which seemed to restore all the - strength and energy which used to characterize that great man; on - ordinary occasions one cup would suffice him, but served more _a la - militaire_, not being poured so scientifically as did the Fernaise - philosopher. - - The approval of this mixed beverage by two such eminent characters - speaks volumes in favor of the Cho-ca, which ought to be - immediately introduced in England. It will also, no doubt, interest - you to learn that the first cup of coffee ever introduced in Europe - was made and presented to Louis XIV, at his magnificent palace of - Versailles, by the Ambassador from the Sublime Porte in the year - 1664, when the noble potentate, whose palate was as delicate as he - was himself great, pronounced it excellent; and immediately - perceived the immense advantage it would be to introduce such a - delicacy into France as food, which a short time after took place, - and was very successfully received there; also the chocolate, which - is made from cacao, was first introduced to the Cardinal Mazarin, - who, having partook of the first cup like Louis XIV. did of the - coffee, and not a worse judge than his illustrious master, - remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor. It is much to be - regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet - attracted the attention of our great Painters, instead of - continually tracing on innumerable yards of canvass the horrors of - war, the destruction of a fleet by fire and water, the plague, the - storm, the earthquake, or an eruption and destruction of a city by - an avalanche or an inundation; if we cannot do without those - painful historical reminiscences, why not add to those mournful - collections a group of Louis XIV. and his court at Versailles, - where he, magnificently dressed, was receiving from the hands of - the said Pacha, not a cup of coffee, but a branch of that plant - covered with its precious berries; and why not also, as a pendant, - Mazarin surrounded by his satellites, taking the first cup of - chocolate; or the characteristic Voltaire pouring a cup of Cho-ca - to Frederic the Great in his tent on the field of Potsdam? These - subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immortalized - on canvass, why? because they have never done harm or evil to any - one; but, on the contrary, have, are, and ever will prove to be, - among the greatest boons ever conferred upon humanity: it would - also engrave in our minds, as well as in our history, to what - mortals we are indebted for the importation and introduction of - such important productions, which daily constitute a part of our - comforts, and have conferred an everlasting benefit on mankind; - but, as usual, dear Eloise, you will no doubt reproach me for - having so much enthusiasm; however, as on this subject you have - been tolerably quiet lately, I not only here inclose you the - receipt, but also two of the thin round cakes of this new aliment, - the Cho-ca, which will produce two cups by making it as follows:-- - - -880. _Cho-ca._--Scrape or grate it; put a pint of milk in a stewpan or -chocolate-pot, and place it on the fire, with two ounces of sugar, boil -it, put the Cho-ca in it, and stir it well for two minutes, and serve. - - - - -ON CARVING. - - - You reproach me for not having said a word about carving; I have - not done so, as I think that is an accomplishment which our sex - need not study, but at the same time it is well to know a little of - it. It is rather difficult to give you a correct description - without drawings, but a few general remarks may be useful. - - Cut Beef, Veal, Ham, Tongue, and Breasts of Poultry, with a sharp - knife, very thin; Mutton, Lamb, and Pork rather thicker. - - Never rise from your seat to carve; never cut across the grain of - the meat, that is, not across the ribs of beef, as I have seen - some persons do, and Mr. B. tells me is often done at clubs, but it - is only those do so who do not know how to carve or appreciate the - true flavor of the meat. - - Never place a fork through the back of a fowl, in order to carve - the leg and wings, but run the knife gently down each side the - breast, detaching the leg and wing at the same time, which is - greatly facilitated by the use of the Tendon Separator--one of - which I purchased at Bramah's, in Piccadilly; it is the greatest - boon ever conferred on a bad carver: the directions for using it - are given with it. If it was more generally used, there would be no - more birds flying across the table in the faces of guests; no more - turkeys deposited in a lady's or gentleman's lap; no more splashing - of gravy to spoil satin dresses; but all would be divided with the - greatest facility, and in the most elegant manner, and the poultry - would look much better at table. - - Never cut up the body of poultry at table, that should always be - left; but game should be cut up, as many epicures prefer the - backbone. For a sirloin of beef the under part of the loin should - always be cut when hot, and the upper part cut straight from the - backbone towards the outside of the ribs, by this plan you will not - spoil the appearance of the joint. - - Ribs of Beef should be carved in the same way, cutting thin and - slanting. - - Round of Beef: cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside, and - then carve thin slices, with a little fat. - - Aitch-bone, the same. - - Fillet of Veal, the same. - - Loin of Veal, carve as the Sirloin of Beef, serving some of the - kidney, and fat to each person. - - Shoulder of Veal, begin from the knuckle, cut thin and slanting. - - Saddle of Mutton will, if properly carved, serve a great many - persons; instead of cutting a long slice the whole length, put your - knife under the meat and cut it away from the bone, then cut it - like thin chops, serving lean and fat together; according to the - usual plan, a saddle of mutton will serve but few people, and the - flavor of the meat is not so good as when served this way. - - Necks and Loins: the bones should be severed by a small meat-saw, - and not a chopper, and the bone cut through when serving, and carve - slanting. - - Haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle and - cutting a slice from that through the loin; but by a plan I have - adopted, I find that the meat eats better, and the joint goes - farther. I carve it like the leg and saddle, that is, I cut a slice - out of the leg part and a slice from the loin, and serve together. - This is more economical, but would not do for venison. - - Lamb.--For Leg and Shoulders, proceed as for Mutton. The Ribs, when - well prepared and the bones properly separated, carve into cutlets, - and serve with a piece of the brisket. - - Quarter of Lamb: the ribs should be sawed through, and the bones - disjointed previous to cooking. The shoulder should be then nicely - removed, the seasoning added; then divide the ribs and serve one - part of the brisket to each person. - - Pork: proceed like the Mutton. - - In carving a Ham, remove a thick slice, of about one inch, flat cut - slantways from the knuckle-end--a Tongue, begin three inches from - the tip, and cut thin slanting slices. - - - - -LETTER No. XXI - - - THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE. - - MY DEAR ELOISE,--Having now arrived at the conclusion of our - labors, during which you have in many instances thought me rather - severe, and perhaps too _exigeant_ in my remarks, especially about - the selection, preparation, and cooking of food in general, which - even to the last I must maintain, that for want of judgment and a - little care, the greatest part of the nutrition of our aliments is - often destroyed, which constitutes a considerable waste, being of - no good to any one, but an evil to everybody; and when you consider - the monstrous quantity of food our fragile bodies consume in this - sublunary sphere during the course of our life, the truth of my - observation will be more apparent, and make you agree with me that - in every instance people ought really to devote more time, care, - and personal attention to their daily subsistence, it being the - most expensive department through life of human luxury. I shall, - for example, give you a slight and correct idea of it, which I am - confident you never before conceived. For this I shall propose to - take seventy years of the life of an epicure, beyond which age many - of that class of "bon vivants" arrive, and even above eighty, still - in the full enjoyment of degustation, &c., (for example, - Talleyrand, Cambaceres, Lord Sefton, &c.;) if the first of the said - epicures when entering on the tenth spring of his extraordinary - career, had been placed on an eminence, say, the top of Primrose - hill, and had had exhibited before his infantine eyes the enormous - quantity of food his then insignificant person would destroy before - he attained his seventy-first year,--first, he would believe it - must be a delusion; then, secondly, he would inquire, where the - money could come from to purchase so much luxurious extravagance? - But here I shall leave the pecuniary expenses on one side, which a - man of wealth can easily surmount when required. So now, dearest, - for the extraordinary fact: imagine on the top of the - above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his tenth - year, surrounded with the recherche provision and delicacies - claimed by his rank and wealth, taking merely the medium - consumption of his daily meals. By closely calculating he would be - surrounded and gazed at by the following number of quadrupeds, - birds, fishes, &c.:--By no less than 30 oxen, 200 sheep, 100 - calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs; in poultry, 1200 fowls, 300 turkeys, - 150 geese, 400 ducklings, 263 pigeons; 1400 partridges, pheasants, - and grouse; 600 woodcocks and snipes; 600 wild ducks, widgeon, and - teal; 450 plovers, ruffes, and reeves; 800 quails, ortolans, and - dotterels, and a few guillemots and other foreign birds; also 500 - hares and rabbits, 40 deer, 120 Guinea fowl, 10 peacocks, and 360 - wild fowl. In the way of fish, 120 turbot, 140 salmon, 120 cod, 260 - trout, 400 mackerel, 300 whitings, 800 soles and slips, 400 - flounders, 400 red mullet, 200 eels, 150 haddocks, 400 herrings, - 5000 smelts, and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery - whitebait, besides a few hundred species of fresh-water fishes. In - shell-fish, 20 turtle, 30,000 oysters, 1500 lobsters or crabs, - 300,000 prawns, shrimps, sardines and anchovies. In the way of - fruit, about 500 lbs. of grapes, 360 lbs. of pine-apples, 600 - peaches, 1400 apricots, 240 melons, and some hundred thousand - plums, greengages, apples, pears, and some millions of cherries, - strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, and an abundance - of other small fruit, viz., walnuts, chestnuts, dry figs and plums. - In vegetables of all kinds, 5475 pounds weight, and about 24343/4 - pounds of butter, 684 pounds of cheese, 21,000 eggs, 800 do. - plovers'. Of bread, 41/2 tons, half a ton of salt and pepper, near - 21/2 tons of sugar; and, if he had happened to be a covetous boy, - he could have formed a fortification or moat round the said hill - with the liquids he would have to partake of to facilitate the - digestion of the above-named provisions, which would amount to no - less than 11,6733/4 gallons, which may be taken as below:--49 - hogsheads of wine, 13683/4 gallons of beer, 584 gallons of - spirits, 342 liqueur, 23943/4 gallons of coffee, cocoa, tea, &c., - and 304 gallons of milk, 2736 gallons of water, all of which would - actually protect him and his anticipated property from any young - thief or fellow schoolboy, like Alexandre Dumas had protected Dante - and his immense treasure from the pirates in his island of Monte - Christo. You now, dearest, fancy that I am exaggerating in every - way; but to convince you, and to prevent your puzzling your brain - to no purpose, I also enclose you a medium scale of the regular - meals of the day, from which I have taken my basis, and in sixty - years it amounts to no less than 333/4 tons weight of meat, - farinaceous food and vegetables, &c.; out of which I have named in - detail the probable delicacies that would be selected by an epicure - through life. But observe that I did not count the first ten years - of his life, at the beginning of which he lived upon pap, bread and - milk, &c., also a little meat, the expense of which I add to the - age from then to twenty, as no one can really be called an epicure - before that age; it will thus make the expenses more equal as - regards the calculation. The following is the list of what I - consider his daily meals:-- - - _Breakfast._--Three quarters of a pint of coffee, four ounces of - bread, one ounce of butter, two eggs, or four ounces of meat, or - four ounces of fish. - - _Lunch._--Two ounces of bread, two ounces of meat, or poultry, or - game, two ounces of vegetables, and half a pint of beer or a glass - of wine. - - _Dinner._--Half a pint of soup, a quarter of a pound of fish, half - a pound of meat, a quarter of a pound of poultry, a quarter of a - pound of savory dishes or game, two ounces of vegetables, two - ounces of bread, two ounces of pastry or roasts, half an ounce of - cheese, a quarter of a pound of fruit, one pint of wine, one glass - of liqueur, one cup of coffee or tea; at night one glass of spirits - and water. - - Now that I have given you these important details, perhaps you will - give me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting - the attention which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and - useful art of cookery by our middle classes. I shall also observe - to you, that those masses of provisions above described in the - expose of sixty years, have been selected, dressed, and served, by - scientific hands, every real epicure choosing through life the best - cook, and consequently the best of provisions, which, had they have - fallen into the hands of inexperienced persons, would very likely - have wasted one third, thereby increasing the expenses, and never - giving any real satisfaction to the consumer; therefore let us act - in a small way as becomes us, as it is for the wealthy according to - their incomes; let every housekeeper devote more time to the study - of domestic and practical economy; in many instances it will - increase their incomes as well as their daily comforts, as I - remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being not only the - most expensive part of human luxury, but also the soul of - sociability, require more attention bestowed upon it than is done - at the present day. - -Fare you well, - -HORTENSE. - - - - - - -INDEX. - - -Acid, 57 - -A-la-mode Beef, 164, 165 - -Albumen, 158 - -Almond Water, 42 - -Almond Cake, Iced, 304 - Ice, White, 297 - -Aitch-Bone of Beef, 122 - -Aliment, a New, 345 - -Apple Bread, 284 - Charlotte, 282 - Compote, 307, 308 - Dumplings, 294 - Flanc, 275 - Fritters, 281 - Jelly, 320 - saute in Butter, 285 - Pie, 296 - Pudding, 294 - Vol-au-Vent, 273 - -Apples, Baked, 45 - and Fig Beverage, 45 - and Rice Pudding, 47 - with Rice, 283 - with Butter, 284 - -Apricot Compote, 308, 309, 310 - Fritters, 282 - Ice Cream, 317 - Marmalade, 318 - Nougat, 278 - Pudding, 294 - -Arrow-root, 39 - Jelly, 40 - Water, 44 - Broth, 34 - -Artichokes, 259 - Jerusalem, 81, 259 - -Asparagus, 253 - with Eggs, 217 - -Aspic of Meat, 240 - - -Bacon, to choose, 18, 140 - to boil, 141 - to broil, 19 - -Baking, on, 60 - -Barley Lemonade, 42 - -Barley Orangeade, 43 - -Barley Water, 41 - -Batter for Fritters, 305 - -Beans, Broad, 259 - French, 259 - a la Maitre d'Hotel, 259 - Haricot, 260 - Young, 260 - a la Bretonne, 261 - -Beef, on, 118 - A-la-mode, 164, 165 - Aitch-Bone of, 122 - Brisket of, 122 - Croquettes of, 167 - Choice of, 118 - Essence of, 36 - Family Salad of, 167 - Fillets of, Broiled, 165 - Saute, 166 - to hang, 118 - Hashed, 158 - Minced, 166 - Miroton, 159, 160 - Palates, 160 - a la Bretonne, 161 - a la Poulette, 161 - a la Maitre d'Hotel, 161 - Pickle for, a la Garrick, 242 - Pressed, 242 - remains of, 158 - Ribs of, Braised, 119 - Larded, 241 - Roasted, 119 - Round of, Salted, 121 - cold, 121 - Rump Steak, Stewed, 164 - Half-round of, silver side, 121 - Salt, remains of, 169 - Salt, Bubble and Squeak, 163 - Sirloin of, 119 - Stewed Rump of, 120 - Spiced, 242 - Tea, 36 - -Beignet Souffle, 281 - -Beet-root, 258 - -Beurre Noir, or Black Butter, 98 - -Beverage, Refreshing, 43, 44 - -Bills of Fare, 339 - -Biscuit Souffle, 301 - Cocoa-Nut, 325 - Cream, 326 - Moss, 325 - Rout, 325 - -Blackberry Pudding, 294 - -Black-Pudding, broiled, 20 - -Blancmange, 290 - -Bloaters, 15 - -Boiling, on, 60 - -Boudins of Fowl, 197 - Turkey, 197 - -Bottoms and Tops, to make, 11 - -Braising, on, 60 - -Braise-Roast, 147 - -Boil, 148 - -Bread, to make, 10 - and Milk, 30 - and Apple, 284 - -Breakfast Table, 7, 26 - -Brocoli, 257 - -Broiling, 63 - -Broth, Arrow-root, 34 - Chicken, 37, 53 - Eel, 38 - Mutton, 33 - Rice, 34 - French Herb, 44 - Seasoned, 33 - Semoulina, 34 - Turkey, 147 - Various, 34 - Vermicelli, 34 - Veal, 35 - -Brown Stock, 77 - -Browning, 78 - -Brioche Rolls, to make, 12 - -Brussels Sprouts, 259 - -Bubble and Squeak, 163 - -Buns, to make, 12 - Butter, 334 - Anchovy, 117 - Burnt, 217 - Lobster, 117 - Melted, 112 - Maitre d'Hotel, 117 - Ravigote, 117 - - -Cacao, 25 - -Cake, Almond, 325 - Cinnamon, 326 - Ginger, 326 - Pound, 324 - Queen's, 324 - Rout, 325 - Savoy, in Moulds, 322 - -Cake, Savoy, or Ladies' Fingers, 323 - Shrewsbury, 326 - Sponge, 323 - small, 324 - St. James's, 327 - Royal Iceing for, 312 - -Calf's Brains, a la Maitre d'Hotel, 175 - fried, 175 - to prepare, 128 - Ears, stewed, 174 - Feet, 53, 214, 240 - Feet Jelly, 286 - Head, 128, 130 - Curry, 213 - Hollandaise, 130 - with Mushrooms, 130 - with Tomatos, 130 - Heart, roasted, 172 - Liver, English fashion, 172 - fried, 175 - sauted, 172 - stewed, 175 - Sweetbreads, 173 - au Gratin, 174 - another way, 173 - -Caper Sauce, 113 - -Capillaire, 330 - -Capon, boiled, 151 - and Cresses, 227 - a l'Estragon, 157 - Pie, 236 - Roast, 150 - Roast braised, 147 - Stewed, 151 - -Capilotade of Poultry, 193 - -Carp, baked, 106 - Sauce Matelote, 106 - -Carrot Pudding, 292 - with Poulards, 152 - Soup, 89 - White, 89 - Sauce, 73 - -Carving, 346 - -Cauliflower, 257 - Gratin, with Cheese, 257 - Puree, Soup, 71, 89 - -Celery, 256 - -Cheesecakes, 229 - Lemon, 280 - Maids of Honor, 280 - Puff, 303 - -Cheese Souffle, 304 - Raminole, 303 - -Charlotte, Apple, 282 - Russe, 289 - -Cheese, to make, 304 - -Charlotte, Strawberry, 289 - -Chartreuse of Fruit, 290 - -Cherry Draught, 44 - Compote, 309, 311 - -Cherry Marmalade, 319 - Omelette, 281 - Vol-au-Vent, 271 - Pudding, 295 - -Chestnut Pudding, 296 - -Chicken, Boiled, 53, 193 - Braised, 192 - Broth, 37, 53 - Curry, 210 - Italian way, 153 - Pie, 203 - Roast Braised, 192 - Roast, for Invalids, 53 - Spring, 228 - Stewed, 150 - -Chicoree Sauce, 72 - -Choice of Pork, 139 - -Choca, 345, 346 - -Chocolate, 25 - Italian, 25 - Iceing for Cakes, 312 - Ice Cream, 316 - -Choice of Meat, 118 - -Chopping of Herbs, 267 - -Chump of Veal, 125, 127 - -Clear Soup, 79 - -Clarify Stock, to, 79 - -Cock-a-leekie Soup, 83 - -Cocoa, 25, 26 - Nut Biscuits, 325 - -Cod, Boiled, 95 - with Oysters, 95 - -Coffee, on, 20 - to choose, 22 - where first used in London, 21 - to make, 22 - French, 23 - White, 23 - made with a filter, 24 - another way, 24 - -Cold Ham, 141, 240 - -Conger Eel, Stewed, 110 - -Confectioner's Paste, 270 - -Conversation on Household Affairs, 336 - -Compote of Pigeons, 200 - of Fruits, 310 - -Cooling Drink, 42 - Lemonade, 45 - -Cow Heels, 169 - -Crab Curry, 215 - -Cranberry Pie, 296 - -Cresses with Pullet, 227 - -Cream, Bohemian Jelly, 288 - Clouted, 335 - Coffee Souffle, 302 - Coffee Ice, 316 - Pastry Saute, 286 - Omelette Souffle, 301 - Rice, 299 - Sauce, 116 - with Spinach, 260 - -Crecy Soup, 89 - -Croquettes of Fowl, 195 - Macaroni, 285 - Rice, 285 - -Crumpets, to make, 11 - to toast, 9 - to serve, 10 - -Crusts of Fruit, 278 - Madeira, 279 - -Cucumbers, 258 - Brown Sauce, 67 - White Sauce, 71, 73 - with Poulards, 152 - -Curacao Jelly, 287 - -Currant Jelly, 320 - with Omelette, 281 - Red, White & Black for Puddings, 294 - and Raspberry Pie, 295 - Compote, 311 - Salad, 322 - Sweetmeat of, 320 - -Curry, Beef, 212 - Calf's Head, Feet, and Tail, 213, 214 - Chicken, 210 - with Paste, 210 - Crab, 215 - Fillets of Haddock, 216 - Sole, 216 - Whiting, 216 - Game, 221 - Lamb, 212, 213 - Lamb's Head, 214 - Lobster, 214 - Mutton, 212 - Ox Tail, 214 - Oyster, 215 - Pork, 212 - Prawn, 215 - Rabbit, 211 - Salmon, 215 - Skate, 216 - Sauce, 69 - Tripe, 214 - Turbot, 216 - Veal, 211 - Breast of, 212 - -Custard Pudding, 47, 364 - - -Damson Pie, 295 - Pudding, 294 - -Dartoise Fourree, 278 - -Demi-Plum Pudding, 292 - -Dessert, 305 - -Dewberry and Raspberry Pie, 295 - -Diablotins, 304 - -Dinner, Nursery, 28 - Table, 327 - -D'Office, Paste, 270 - -Dried Haddock, 16 - Mackerel, 97 - Sprats, 17 - -Draught, Cherry, 44 - -Drink, Cooling, 42 - New, 41 - Strengthening, 43 - -Dry Toast, 9 - -Ducks, on, 156 - a l'Aubergiste, 157 - to choose, 156 - Roasted, 156 - Stewed with Peas, 156, 198 - Turnips, 157, 199 - Varieties of, 156 - -Ducklings, 228 - Pie, 236 - Stewed with Peas, 156 - Turnips, 157 - Remains of, 157 - -Duck, Wild, 230 - Hashed, 225 - with Orange Sauce, 225 - -Ears, Calf's, Stewed, 174 - -Ecarlate of Fowl, 153 - -Eels, on, 109 - to kill, 109 - Broth, 38 - Fried, 109 - Pie, 205 - Spitchcocked, 110 - Skinned, 109 - Stewed, 109 - a la Tartare, 110 - -Effects of Fish, 93 - -Eggs au Beurre, 13 - Baked, 216 - with Asparagus, 217 - with burnt Butter, 217 - Hard, 14 - in Cases, 218 - with Cheese, 218 - to choose, 12 - with Green Peas, 217 - with Ham, 19 - plain Boiled, 13 - Poached, 14 - Mashed, 217 - Meagre, 217 - with Mushrooms, 217 - Sauce, 112 - Snow, 217 - with Sprue Grass, 217 - sur le plat, 14 - and Toast, 14 - a la Tripe, 217 - -Endive Sauce or Puree, 72 - -Entrees, or Made Dishes, 158 - of Game, 220 - -Epicure, the Septuagenarian, 348 - -Escalops, 250 - -Escaloped Oysters, 250 - -Eschalot Sauce, 66 - -Essence of Beef, 36 - - -Fennel Sauce, 112 - -Feet, Lamb's, 52, 185 - Ox, 169 - Calf's, 53 - -Fish, on, 93 - French-Anglais way of stewing 110 - for Breakfast, 15 - Carp, 106 - Cod, 95 - Conger Eel, 110 - Eels, 109 - Effects of, 93 - Forcemeat of, 252 - Flounders, 104 - Haddock, 96 - Herrings, 100 - Mackerel, 97 - Maids, 104 - Perch, 108 - Pike, 105 - Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet, 99 - Salmon, 94 - Sauces, 111 - Salad, 247 - Salt, 95 - Skate, 104 - Smelts, 101 - Soles, 103 - Sturgeon, 96, 97 - Tench, 108 - Trout, 107 - Turbot, 102 - White Bait, 101 - Whiting, 99 - -Fish, Shell-- - Escalops, 250 - Oysters, 250 - Razor or Solen, 250 - Prawns, 250 - Shrimps, 251 - -Fisherman's Soup, 86 - -Fillet of Beef, broiled, 165 - Veal, cold, 241 - roast, 125 - -Flancs, 274 - -Flanc of Apple, 275 - Fruit, 274 - Meringue, 274 - what they are, 158 - -Flounders, on, 104 - Water Souchet, 104 - Fried, 101 - -Food, light, for invalids, 33 - -Forcemeat, on, 251 - to make, 251 - of Fish, 252 - Panada for, 252 - of Veal, 253 - of Whitings, 252 - -Fondu, Parmesan, 302 - Neapolitan, 302 - simple, 302 - Stilton Cheese, 303 - -Fourree, Dartoise, 278 - Gateau, 277 - Rissole, 276 - -Fowls, on, 149 - Blanquettes of, 194 - Boiled, 194 - Braised, 194 - Broiled, 194, 195 - Boudins of, 197 - Croquettes of, 195 - Fricassee of, 195 - Fried, 193 - Hashed, Indian, 193 - Italian way, 153 - a l'Ecarlate, 153 - a la Marengo, 196 - Minced, 194 - Pie, 235 - Pillau, 209 - Pulled, for invalids, 54 - Roast braised, 148 - Saute, 194, 196, 197, 199 - Salad, 249 - to truss, 150 - -Fowl, Guinea, 229 - Pea, 229 - -French Beans, 259 - Coffee, 23 - Herb Broth, 44 - Panada, 41, 252 - Remedy for Colds, 38 - Plums Compote, 309 - Fritadella, 190 - Fritters, Apple, 282 - Apricot, 282 - Orange, 282 - Peach, 282 - Souffle, 282 - -Fruit, Chartreuse of, 298 - Crusts, 278 - Flanc of, 274 - Rissolettes, 273 - Puddings, 294 - Pies, 296 - Salads of, 321, 322 - Vol-au-Vent, 271 - Wall, 295 - -Fricandeau of Veal, 170 - to carve, 171 - to dress, 171 - Various ways, 171 - -Fritadella, 190 - -Frying, on, 61 - -Fry, Lamb's, 138 - -Fumet de Gibier Sauce, 233 - - -Game, choice of, 229 - to keep, 229 - Made-dishes of, 220 - Salad of, 248 - Soup, 92 - Tureen of, 237 - Entrees of, 220 - Dunbird, 231 - Garganey, 231 - Gorcock, 230 - Grouse, 230 - Red, 230 - White, 230 - Half Birds, 231 - Lark, 232 - Moorcock, or Gorcock, 230 - Moor-game, 230 - Partridge, 230 - Red-legged, 230 - Pea Fowl, 229 - Pheasant, 229 - Hybrid, 229 - Plovers, 231 - Pochard, 231 - Ptarmigan, 230 - Quails, 232 - Red Heads, 231 - Snipes, 232 - Teal, 231 - Whim, 231 - Whewer, 231 - Widgeons, 231 - Great Headed, 231 - Woodcock, 231 - -Garlic Sauce, 68 - -Garniture for Omelettes, 219 - -Garum Sauce, 111 - Sociorum, 111 - -Gateau Fourre, 277 - -Galantine, to cook, 238 - Jelly, 287 - Turkey, 238 - Veal, 241 - how got, 117 - -Gibelote of Rabbit, 200 - -Giblets, 85, 155 - -Glaze, 78 - -Gold Jelly, 287 - -Goose, 153 - to choose, 153 - Giblets, 155 - Hashed, 199 - Pie, 236 - Preserved, 155 - Stewed, 155 - Stuffing, 154 - Roasted, 154, 155 - Trussed, 154 - -Gooseberry, Green, Compote, 311 - Pie, 295 - Pudding, 294 - Vol-au-Vent, 272 - with Rhubarb, 297 - -Gosling, Roast, 228 - -Grass, Sprue, 255 - -Gratin of Lobster, 245 - -Gravy, Brown, 77 - Spinach and, 260 - Turkey, 145 - -Greengage Compote, 308, 311 - -Greengage Pudding, 294 - -Groats, Scotch, Gruel, 40 - -Grouse Pie, 204, 236 - Scotch Plan of Cooking, 222 - -Gruel, 40 - Sago, 40 - -Guinea Fowls, Roasted, 229 - - -Haddocks, Baked, 96 - Dried, 16 - Fillets of, 216 - -Ham, Cold, 141, 240 - and Eggs, 19 - Hot, 141 - -Hamburgh Beef, 122 - -Hard Eggs, 14 - -Hare, Jugged, 226, 227 - Roasted, 233 - -Haricot Beans, 260 - -Hartshorn Jelly, 287 - -Haunch of Mutton, 130 - Venison, 142 - -Head, Calf's, 128, 130 - Hollandaise, 130 - with Mushrooms, 130 - Tomatos, 130 - Curry, 213 - Lamb's, 138 - Pig's, 243 - Pig's, Sauce for, 243 - Pig's, to braise, 243 - -Heart, Calf's, Roasted, 172 - Lamb's, 185 - Sheep's, 184 - -Herbs with Omelette, 219 - Minced, Sauce, 67 - Italian Sauce, 67 - Chopping, 267 - -Herrings, Boiled, 100 - Broiled, 100 - Toast, 15 - -Hotch Potch, 87 - - -Ice, Almond, White, 297 - Apricot, 317 - Chocolate, 316 - Coffee, 316 - Lemon, 316 - Orange, 317 - Pine Apple, 316 - Strawberry, 317 - Vanilla, 315 - -Iced Almond Cake, 304 - -Imperial, 46 - -Indian Hash, 193 - -Invalids, Comforts for, 33 - Fish for, 49 - Food, 33 - Meat, 33, 51 - Partridges, 54 - Pigeons, 54 - Poultry, 53 - Puddings, 47 - -Irish Stew, 178 - Soup, 82 - -Isinglass Jelly, 287 - -Italian Drops, 327 - - -Jam, Apricot, 318 - Quince, 318 - Raspberry, 319 - Strawberry, 319 - -Jardiniere, Neck of Lamb, 136 - Sauce, 137 - -Jelly, Apple, 320 - Arrow-root, 40 - Bohemian Cream, 288 - Calf's Foot, 286 - Curacao, 287 - Currant, 320 - Gelatine, 287 - Gold, 287 - Hartshorn, 287 - Isinglass, 287 - Marasquino, 287 - Lemon, 288 - Orange, 288 - Punch, 287 - Quince, 287, 320 - Rum, 287 - Silver, 287 - Whipped, 288 - of Meat, to clarify, 239 - -Jesuits, Turkeys, so called, 144 - -Julienne Soup, 81 - - -Kidneys, Bread-crumbed, 18 - Maitre d'Hotel, 18 - on Toast, 17 - Ox, 168 - Omelette of, 220 - Pudding, 168, 207 - Sauted, 18 - Sheep's, 17, 176 - -Kidney Beans, 259 - -Knuckle of Veal, 127, 240 - - -Lait de Poule, 38 - Sweet, 38 - -Lamb, 136 - Breast of, Broiled, 138 - Curried, 212 - Chop, 52, 166, 186 - Curry, 212 - Cutlets, 185 - to cut up, 136 - Feet, 52, 185 - Fry, 138 - Head, 138, 139, 213 - Heart, 185 - Leg of, 137 - Loin of, 136 - Neck of, 136 - Pie, 201, 203 - Papillote, 186 - Pudding, 206 - Quarter of, 136 - Quality of, 136 - Remains of, 184 - Ribs of, 136 - Saddle of, Russian fashion, 137 - Sauted, 186 - Shoulder of, 137 - -Larks a la Minute, 226 - Pie, 226 - -Laver, 263 - -Lentils, 262 - Soup, 90 - -Letters-- - I, 5; - II, 6; - III, 26; - IV, 27; - V, 28; - VI, 55; - VII, 56; - VIII, 57; - IX, 58; - X, 58; - XI, 58; - XII, 120; - XIII, 178; - XIV, 181; - XV, 244; - XVI, 305; - XVII, 327; - XVIII, 332; - XIX, 334; - XX, 345; - XXI, 348. - -Leveret, 233 - -Lemonade, Barley, 42 - Cooling, 45, 332 - -Lemon Cheesecakes, 280 - Jelly, 288 - Souffle, 299, 300 - -Leg of Pork, 139, 142 - Lamb, 137 - -Liaison of Eggs, 68 - -Liver, Calf's, 172, 175 - -Lobster Butter, 116 - Curry, 214 - a la Creme, 114 - Gratin of, 245 - Miroton of, 245 - Omelette, 220 - Plain, 246 - Salad, 246 - Sauce, 113, 114 - -Loin of Mutton, 134 - Pork, 140 - Veal, 125 - Braised, 127 - -Luncheon, 27 - - -Mackerel a la Maitre d'Hotel, 98 - au Beurre Noir, 98 - Boiled, 97 - Dried, 97 - Pickled, 107 - Stewed, 98 - Soft Roe Sauce, 111 - -Macaroons, 326 - -Macaroni, 265 - Croquettes, 285 - a l'Estoufade, 266 - au Gratin, 266 - a l'Italienne, 266 - a la Napolitaine, 266 - Pudding, 47 - Soup, 82 - to blanch, 265 - -Macedoine Omelette, 281 - -Madeira Crusts, 279 - -Made Dishes of Beef, 158 - Game, 220 - Remains of Veal, 175 - -Maitre d'Hotel Sauce, 73 - -Maids of Honor, 280 - -Marasquino Jelly, 287 - -Marinade of Salmon, 248 - -Marrow, Vegetable, 257 - Pudding, 294 - -Matelote, 116 - -Marmalade with Pancake, 282 - of Apple, 318 - of Apricot, 318 - of Cherries, 319 - of Pine Apple, 322 - -Mashed Eggs, 217 - -Meagre Eggs, 217 - Soup, 88, 91 - Puree, 91 - -Meat, Aspic of, 240 - for Breakfast, 17 - for Invalids, 33 - Remains of, 175 - -Melted Butter, 112 - -Mephistopheleian Sauce, 75 - -Meringues a la Cuilleree, 277 - Flanc, 276 - -Milk and Bread, 30 - Rice, 38, 39 - Semoulina, 39 - Tapioca, 39 - Vermicelli, 39 - -Minced Beef, 166 - Fowl, 194 - Meat, 295 - Pie, 295 - Pudding, 292 - Pheasant, 222 - -Mint Sauce, 68 - -Minute, Snipes a la, 224 - -Miroton of Beef, 159, 160 - Lobster, 245 - Lobster Salad, 246 - -Moorgame Pie, 236 - -Mould Pudding, 291 - -Mock Turtle, Brown, 85 - White, 84 - -Muffins, to make, 10 - toast, 9 - -Mulberry Pie, 295 - -Mulligatawny Soup, 85 - -Muria Sauce, 111 - -Mullet, or Sur Mullet, to cook, 99 - Papillote, 99 - Saute, 100 - -Mussel Sauce, 115 - -Mushrooms, Blanched, 74 - with Eggs, 220 - Omelette of, 220 - Sauce, 66, 68, 73, 261 - -Mutton, on, 130 - Boiled, 132 - Broth, 33, 34, 82 - Chop, 51, 178 - Soyer's, 180, 182 - Saute, 180 - Breast of, Curry, 212 - Curry, 212 - Cutlet, various ways, 182, 183, 184 - Plain, 51 - French Ragout of, 177 - Haunch of, 130 - Leg of, Roasted, 132 - Boiled, 132 - a la Bretonne, 133 - Braised, 134 - Stewed, 134 - Loin of, Roasted, 134 - Loin of, a la Bretonne, 133 - Neck of, Roasted, 134 - Boiled, 135 - Pie, 202 - Pillau, 210 - Pudding, 206 - Saddle of, 131 - a la Polonaise, 131 - Shoulder of, Roasted, 133 - Boiled, 133 - Baked, with Apples 133 - Provincial, 134 - Stuffed and Baked, 133 - -Neapolitan Fondue, 302 - -Neck of Lamb, 136 - Pork, 140 - Veal, 126 - Venison, 143 - -Nectarine Pudding, 297 - -New Drink, 41 - -Nursery Dinner, 28 - - -Omelettes, 15, 219 - Asparagus, 219 - Bacon, 220 - Cherry, 281 - Currant Jelly, 281 - Garniture for, 219 - Ham, 219 - Herb, 219 - Kidney, 220 - Lobster, 220 - Mushroom, 220 - Macedoine of, 281 - Oyster, 219 - Parmesan, 219 - Peach, 281 - Peas, 219 - Preserved Apricot, 281 - Raspberry Jam, 281 - Rum, 281 - Saute Souffle, 301 - Sauted in Cream, 301 - Strawberry, 281 - Sweet, 281 - -Onion, Button, Sauce, 72 - Puree, 71 - Soup, 91 - Stuffed, 74 - -Orangeade, 46 - -Orange Compote, 309, 310 - Fritters, 282 - Salad, 321 - Vol-au-Vent, 272 - Jelly, 288 - Ice, Souffle, 298 - Sauce, 68 - -Osmazome, 37, 118 - -Oxen, to judge, 118 - how cut, 118 - -Ox-beef, to hang, 118 - Brains, 164 - Cheek, 84 - Feet, 169 - Heart, 162 - Kidneys, 168 - Remains, 169 - Tail Curry, 214 - au Gratin, 162 - a la Jardiniere, 161 - Sauce piquante, 162 - Soup, 82 - Tongue, cold, 240 - hot, 240 - fresh, 123 - pickled, 123 - Remains of, 123, 169 - -Oysters, 250 - Escaloped, 250 - Curry, 215 - Omelette, 219 - Soup, 86 - Sauce, 115 - Stewed, 251 - - -Panada, French, 41, 252 - -Pancake, with Marmalade, 282 - -Pap, 29 - -Parmesan Fondue, 302 - -Parsnips, with Salt Fish, 95 - -Partridge, Roasted, 230 - Hashed, 223 - for Invalids, 54 - Pie, 204, 236 - Salmi, 223 - Sauted with Mushrooms, 223 - Stewed with Cabbage, 222 - -Palates of Beef, 160 - a la Bretonne, 161 - a la Maitre d'Hotel, 161 - a la Poulette, 161 - -Papillote Lamb Chops, 186 - Sauce, 69 - -Paste, Beef Suet, 269 - different sorts of, 268 - D'Office, or Confectioners', 270 - Puff, 268 - Half, 269 - Short, or Pate a foncer, 269 - for Fruit Tarts, 269 - -Pastry Cream Saute, 286 - Turban of, 304 - -Peach Compote, 307 - Fritters, 282 - Omelette, 281 - Salad, 321 - Vol-au-Vent, 271 - -Pea-Fowl, 229 - -Pear Compote, 307 - with Rice, 284 - Pie, 296 - -Peas and Sprue-grass Sauce, 72 - and Bacon, 74 - French way, 254 - Green, 254 - with Eggs, 217 - Soup, 89, 90 - Stewed, 73 - Winter, 90 - -Pease Pudding, 209 - -Perch, Sauted in Butter, 108 - Hampton Court fashion, 108 - -Pheasant, Broiled, 220 - Hashed, 221 - Joe Miller's, 221 - Minced, 222 - Pie, raised, 236 - Roasted, 229 - Salmi, 222 - Stewed with Cabbage, 221 - -Pickle a la Garrick, 242 - -Pickled Fish, 248 - Mackerel, 107 - Pork, 142 - Salmon, 107 - Trout, 107 - -Pie, Capon, 236 - Chicken, 203 - Duckling, 236 - Eel, 205 - Fowl, 236 - Goose, 236 - Grouse, 204, 236 - Hare, 236 - Lamb, 201, 203 - Lark, 226 - in Mould, 234 - Mutton, 202 - Moorfowl, 236 - Partridge, 204, 236 - Pigeon, 204, 236 - Pheasant, 236 - Poulard, 236 - Rabbit, 203 - Rump-steak, 202 - Sea, 205 - Veal and Ham, 202, 234 - Fruit, 296 - Apple, 296 - Cherry, 295 - Cranberry, 295 - Currant, 295 - Damson, 295 - Dewberry and Raspberry, 295 - Gooseberry, 295 - Minced Meat, 295 - Mulberry, 295 - Pear, 296 - Plum, 296 - Quince, 296 - Raspberry, 296 - Rhubarb, 296 - Whortleberry, 296 - -Pies, simple plan of making, 236 - Various, 201 - -Pigeons en Compote, 200 - for Invalids, 54 - Pie, 204, 236 - Stewed with Peas, 201 - -Pig, Sucking, 141 - Hind-quarter of, 141 - -Pig's Cheek, 142 - Feet a la Ste. Menehould, 189 - Stuffed, 188 - Kidneys, 189 - Head, like Wild Boar's, 243 - to braise, 243 - -Pike, to cook, 105 - Sauce Matelote, 106 - -Pillau, Fowl, 209 - Mutton, 210 - -Pine Apple, 322 - -Piquante Sauce, 66, 186 - -Plovers Sauted with Truffles, 224 - Pie, 236 - -Plum Beverage, 45 - Compote, 309 - Stewed, 45 - Vol-au-Vent, 273 - -Poached Eggs, 14 - -Pork, to cut up, 139 - Best, 139 - to choose, 139 - Neck of, 140 - Salted, 142 - Pickled, 142 - Chine of, 140 - Cutlets, 187, 188 - Hashed, 189 - Hand of, 142 - Leg of, Roasted, 139 - Boiled, 142 - Loin of, a la Piemontaise, 140 - Normandy fashion, 140 - Pudding, 207 - Sparerib of, 140 - -Porridge, 30 - -Potatoes, 263 - Varieties of, 263 - Baked, 264 - Boiled, 263 - Fried, 264 - Mashed, 267 - Irish way of Boiling, 265 - a la Lyonnaise, 265 - a la Maitre d'Hotel, 264 - Mashed, 265 - Sandwiches, 163 - -Poultry, on, 143 - described, 143 - for Invalids, 53 - to draw, 144 - to kill, 143 - to pluck, 144 - en Capillotade, 193 - -Poulards, Braised, 150 - Boiled, 151 - with Carrots, 152 - with Cucumbers, 152 - -Poulard Pie, 236 - with Quenelles, 151 - with Rice, 151 - Roasted, 150 - Stewed, 151 - -Poults, Turkey, 227 - -Prawn Curry, 215 - -Preserved Goose, 155 - -Prussian Cutlets, 191 - -Pudding, Meat, 205 - Black, 20 - Beefsteak, 205 - Kidney, 207 - Ox-Kidney, 207 - Lamb, 206 - Mutton, 206 - Pease, 209 - Pork, 207 - Rabbit, 208 - Suet, 208 - Toad-in-Hole, 208 - Veal, 207 - Yorkshire, 208 - for Invalids and Children, 47 - Apple and Rice, 47 - Bread, 48 - Bread and Butter, 48 - Small, 48 - Cabinet, 47 - Custard, 47 - Macaroni, 47 - Rice, 47 - Tapioca, 47 - Vermicelli, 47 - in Moulds, 291 - a l'Eloise, 291 - a la Reine, 292 - Carrot, 292 - Chestnut, 296 - Demi-Plum, 292 - Iced Cabinet, 287 - Minced Meat, 292 - Nesselrode, 296 - Trifle, 292 - in Cloths, 293 - Apple, 294 - Apricot, 294 - Blackberry, 294 - Currant, Red and White, 294 - Custard, 294 - Damson, 294 - Fruit, 294 - Gooseberry, 294 - Greengage, 294 - Nectarine, 294 - Marrow, 294 - Peach, 294 - Plum, 293 - Plain Baked, 293 - Plain Bolster, 294 - Plum Bolster, 293 - Raspberry and Cherry, 295 - Rowley Powley, 293 - Rhubarb, 295 - Whorts, 295 - -Puff Cheesecakes, 303 - Paste, 268 - -Pulled Fowl for Invalids, 54 - -Pullets, on, 228 - Roasting, 228 - Roasted, with Cresses, 227 - -Punch Jelly, 287 - Cold, 333 - - -Quails, 232 - -Quenelles. Ragout Sauce, 73 - with Tongue, 151 - -Quince Pie, 296 - - -Rabbit, on, 232 - Roasted, 232 - Curry, 211 - Fricassee of, 199 - Gibelotte of, 200 - Pie, 203 - Pudding, 208 - -Raised Pies, 235, 236 - -Ramifolle, 190 - -Raminole, Cheese, 303 - -Raspberry Jam, 319 - Omelette, 281 - Pie, 296 - Pudding, 295 - Vinegar, 43 - -Ratafias, 327 - -Ravigote Sauce, 67, 117 - -Refreshing Beverage, 43 - -Removes, 117, 296 - -Remains of Meat, 175 - Lamb, 184 - Duck, 157 - -Rhubarb Compote, 311 - Pie, 296 - Pudding, 295 - Vol-au-Vent, 273 - -Rice with Apples, 283 - to boil, 267 - Broth, 34 - Croquettes, 285 - Milk, 38, 39 - with Pears, 284 - Pudding, 47 - with Apple, 47 - Poulard with, 151 - Soup, 82 - Water, 41 - -Rissole Fourree, 276 - -Rissolettes, little Fruit, 273 - -Ribs of Beef, Roasted, 119 - Braised, 119 - -Roasting, on, 59 - -Roasts, Second Course, 227 - -Robert Sauce, 67 - -Root, Beet, 258 - -Rolls, to make, 10 - Brioche, 12 - -Roux, 65 - -Rump Steak, 52, 124 - -Rum, Omelette with, 281 - Jelly, 287 - -Russe, Charlotte, 289 - -Rusks, to make, 11 - - -Saddle of Lamb, 137 - -Sago Gruel, 40 - -Salad, Beef, 167 - and Potatoes, 167 - Fish, 247 - Fowl, 249 - Game, 248 - Lobster, 246 - Miroton, 245 - Plain, 246 - Tartar, 246 - -Salads of Fruit, 321, 322 - -Salmon, Boiled, 94 - Broiled, 95 - Curry, 215 - Marinade, 248 - Matelote, 94 - Pickled, 107 - -Salmi of Partridge, 223 - Pheasant, 222 - -Salsify, 256 - -Sandwiches, 333 - -Sauces, on, 64 - -Sauce, Anchovy, 112 - Anchovy Butter, 69, 117 - Beans, French, 72 - Beyrout, 114 - for Meat, 115 - Brown, 65, 66 - Cucumber, 67 - Mushroom, 66, 68 - Beurre Noir, 98 - Button Onion, 72 - Caper, 113 - Carrot, 73 - Cream, 116 - Chicoree, 72 - Cauliflower, 71 - Cucumber, 67, 71, 73 - Curry, 69 - Demi-glaze, 65 - Egg, 112 - Endive, 72 - Eschalot, 66 - Fumet de Gibier, 233 - Fennel, 112 - Fish, 111 - Garum, 111 - Garum Sociorum, 111 - Garlic, 68 - Italian Herb, 67 - Jardiniere, 136 - Jerusalem Artichoke, 71, 72 - Liaison of Eggs, 68 - Lobster, 113 - New, 113 - a la Creme, 114 - simplified, 114 - Maitre d'Hotel, 73, 117, 186 - Matelote, 116 - Simple, 116 - Mayonnaise, 247 - Melted Butter, 112 - Mephistopheleian, 75 - Minced Herb, 67 - Mint, 68 - Muria, 111 - Mushroom, 66, 68, 73, 74 - Mussel, 115 - Onion, 71, 74 - Orange, 68 - Oyster, 74, 115 - Papillote, 69 - Peas, 72, 73, 74 - Piquante, 66, 186 - Quenelles,73 - Ravigote, 67, 117 - Robert, 67 - Shrimp, 112 - Soft Roe, 111 - Sorrel, 71 - Soyer's, 69 - Spinach, 72, 260 - Tomato, 69, 75 - Tartar, 75, 248 - Turnip, 71, 72 - Tarragon, 67 - White, 64, 71 - Wild Boar's Head, 244 - Wild Fowl, 233 - -Sardines and Toast, 15 - -Salt Pork, 142 - -Sorrel Sauce, 71 - -Sauteing, on, 62 - -Sausage Cake, 146, 188 - -Sausages, to cook, 20 - to choose, 19 - Cambridge, 20 - to saute, 20, 146 - Atherstone, 20 - with Turkey, 146 - -Savory Dishes, 234 - -Seakale, 255 - -Semoulina Broth, 34 - Milk, 39 - Soup, 82 - -Shrimp Sauce, 112, 113 - -Sheep's Brains, 135, 176 - Feet, or Trotters, 176 - Stock from, 177 - Head, 135 - Heart, 184 - Kidneys, 17, 176 - Tongue, 184 - -Sheep, how to cut up, 130 - which are best, 130 - -Shell Fish, 250 - -Silver Jelly, 287 - -Skate, to cook, 104 - au Beurre Noir, 105 - Curry, 216 - -Soup, on, 75 - Autumn, 87 - Artichoke, 81, 88 - Cabbage, 87 - Clear, 79 - Carrot, White, 89 - Cauliflower, 89 - Crab, 92 - Crecy, 89 - Fisherman's, 86 - Game, 92 - Giblet, 85 - Hare, 91 - Hotch Potch, 87 - Italian Paste, 81 - Irish, 82 - Julienne, 81 - Lamb's Head, 84 - Lentil, 90 - Macaroni, 82 - Mock Turtle, Brown, 85 - White, 84 - Maigre, 88, 91 - Mulligatawny, 85 - Mutton Broth, 82 - Onion, 91 - Ox Cheek, 84 - Ox Tail, 83 - Oyster, 86 - Palestine, 88 - Pea, 80, 90 - Pot-au-Feu, 92 - Printaniere, 80 - Puree of Vegetable, 88 - Rice, 82 - Scotch Cock-a-leekie, 83 - Semoulina, 82 - Spring, 81 - Sole, 86 - Sheep's Head, 84 - Turnip, 81, 89 - Vermicelli, 81 - Wild Fowl, 92 - -Souffle, 299 - Beignet, 281 - Biscuit, 301 - Coffee, 302 - Cream, Whipped, 301 - Cheese, 304 - Fritters, 282 - Lemon, 299, 300 - Omelette, 300 - Saute, 301 - Cream, 301 - Orange Flower, 299 - Orange Iced, 298 - Punch Cake, 298 - Rice Cream, 300 - Vanilla, 302 - -Smelts, Broiled, 50 - Fried, 101 - for Invalids, 50 - Water Souchet, 51 - -Soles, small, or Slips, 17 - Boiled, 104 - Fried, 103 - Fillets of Curried, 216 - aux Fines Herbes, 104 - a la Menniere, 103 - Saute in Oil, 103 - -Snow Eggs, 217 - -Snipes a la Minute, 224 - -Soyer's Chop, 180 - Sauce, 69 - -Sourcrout, to cook, 262 - Bavarian way, 263 - -Sparerib of Pork, 140 - -Spinach, 260 - with Gravy, 260 - with Cream, 260 - -Sprouts, Brussels, 259 - -Spring Chickens, 228 - -Sprats, to cook, 17 - Dried, 17 - -Sprue-grass, 255 - with Eggs, 217 - -Steak, Rump, 54, 164 - -Stewing, on, 60 - -Stock, on, 76 - for all kinds of Soup, 76 - Brown, 77 - to Clarify, 79 - Economical, 76 - Sheep's Feet, 177 - -Strawberry Jam, 319 - Omelette, 281 - Salad, 321 - Charlotte, 289 - Vol-au-Vent, 273 - -Strengthening Drink, 43 - -Stuffing, Turkey, 148 - Veal, 253 - -Sturgeon, 96, 97 - -Sucking Pig, 141 - Hind-quarter of, 141 - -Sugar, to boil, 313 - color, 312 - clear, 313 - in Grains, 312 - of Lemon, 313 - Spring, 313 - Silk Thread, 315 - Vanilla, 313 - -Sweetbreads, 173 - Saute, 173 - au Gratin, 173 - -Sweet Lait de Poule, 38 - -Sweetmeat of Currant Jelly, 320 - - -Table, Breakfast, 7 - -Tapioca Milk, 39 - Pudding, 48 - -Tarragon Sauce, 67 - -Tartar Sauce, 75 - -Tarts, small Fruit, 275 - -Tartlets, little Fruit, 275 - -Tea, 24 - how made in France, 21 - Beef, - new way to make, 25 - -Teal, a new method of cooking, 225 - a la sans facon, 226 - -Tench, Stewed, 108 - with Anchovy Butter, 109 - -Toast, Plain, 8 - Dry, 9 - and Eggs, 14 - Haddock, 15 - Herring, 15 - Kidneys, 17 - Sardines, 15 - Water, 46 - Crumpets, to, 9 - Muffins, 9 - to serve, 9 - -Toad in a Hole, 208 - -Tongue, cold Ox, 240 - Fresh, 123 - Remains of, 124, 169 - Sheep's, 184 - -Tomato Sauce, 69 - -Tops and Bottoms, 11 - -Trout a la Bretonne, 107 - Pickled, 107 - River, 107 - a la Twickenham, 107 - -Trifles, 290 - -Trifle Pudding, 292 - -Tripe Curry, 214 - -Truffles, Saute of, 262 - -Turbot, to cook, 102 - French way, 102 - a la Creme, 102 - -Turban of Almond Cake, 304 - of Boudins of Fowl, 198 - of Pastry, 304 - -Turkey, Boiled, 146 - Braised, 147 - Broth from, 147 - Blanquette of, 197 - Boudins of, 197 - with Celery Sauce, 147 - to choose, 144 - where from, 144 - Giblets, 155 - Gravy for, 145 - Jerusalem Sauce, 147 - called Jesuits, 144 - Galantine, 238 - to dress, 238 - with Oysters, 147 - Parsley and Butter, 147 - Sausages, 146 - Sausage-cake, 146 - Roasted, 144 - Braised, 148 - Stuffing for, 148 - to truss, 145 - with Tomatos, 147 - Stewed, 149 - Poults, 227 - -Tureen of Game, 237 - - -Vanilla Cream, 315 - Souffle, 302 - -Veal, on, 124 - Breast of, 126 - Stuffed, 127 - Stewed, 127 - Curried, 212 - Broth, 35 - Strengthening, 35 - French fashion, 35 - Curry, 211 - Cutlets, 174 - aux Fines Herbes, 174 - en Papillote, 174 - Saute, 166 - Chump of, 125 - Fricandeau of, 170 - to dress, 171 - to prepare, 170 - to carve, 171 - with all Sauces, 171 - Fillet of, 241 - Roasted, 125 - Braised, 241 - Forcemeat of, 253 - Galantine of, 241 - and Ham Pie, 202, 234, 236 - Knuckle of, 127, 240 - Loin of, 125, 127 - Neck of, Braised, 126 - with Peas, 126 - with Haricots, 126 - with new Potatoes, 126 - Shoulder of, Stewed, 127 - with Sauce piquante, 126 - Stuffed and Braised, 126 - Cold, 241 - Roasted, 126 - Braised, 126 - Remains of, 175 - -Vegetables, to cook, 253 - Artichokes, 259 - Jerusalem, 259 - Asparagus, 253 - Beans, French, 259 - a la Maitre d'Hotel, 259 - Gabanza, 262 - Haricot, White, 260 - a la Bretonne, 261 - Kidney, 259 - Windsor, 259 - Beetroot, 258 - Brocoli, 257 - Brussels Sprouts, 259 - Cauliflower, 257 - gratine with Cheese, 257 - Celery, 256 - Cucumbers, 258 - Laver, 263 - Lentils, 261 - Vegetable Marrow, 257 - Mushrooms, 261 - large, 261 - Potatoes, their Introduction, 263 - Baked, 264 - Boiled, 263 - Irish way, 265 - Fried, 264 - Fried, Mashed, 267 - a la Lyonnaise, 265 - a la Maitre d'Hotel, 264 - Peas, Green, 254 - French way, 254 - Salsifis, 256 - Seakale, 255 - Sourcrout, 262 - Bavarian, 263 - Spinach, 260 - with Gravy, 260 - with Cream, 260 - Sprue Grass, 255 - Truffles, English, 262 - Saute of, 262 - -Venison, 142 - where to keep, 142 - how to choose, 142 - Haunch of, 142 - Neck of, 143 - -Vermicelli Broth, 34 - Milk, 39 - Pudding, 48 - Soup, 81 - -Victimized Cutlets, 191 - -Vinegar, Raspberry, 43 - -Vol-au-Vent, 270 - of Apples, 273 - Cherries, 271 - Fruit, 271 - Gooseberries, 272 - Oranges, 272 - another, 272 - still plainer, 272 - Peaches, 271 - Plums, 273 - Rhubarb, 273 - Strawberries, 273 - -Water, Barley, 41 - Fresh Fruit, 43 - Jelly, 44 - Rice, 41 - Toast and, 46 - Souchet, 104 - Smelts, 51 - Cresses with Steak, 124 - -Whitings, Boiled, 49 - Broiled, 16, 49 - Fried, 50, 99 - au Gratin, 99 - Forcemeat of, 252 - Sauted, 50 - Fillets of, 216 - -White Bait, to cook, 101 - Sauce, 64, 70 - -Whipped Jelly, 288 - -Whorts Pie, 296 - Pudding, 295 - -Woodcock, Hashed, 224 - a la Lucullus, 223 - Sportsman's fashion, 223 - -Widgeon, Hashed, 225 - Roasted, 225 - -Wild Boar's Head, 243 - Sauce, 244 - -Wild Duck, with Orange Sauce, 225 - Hashed, 225 - -Wine, Port, Negus, 333 - White, Fillip, 333 - - -Yorkshire Pudding, 208 - - -THE END. - - -_D. 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Translated by Doctor Chase 8vo. 2 50 - -WYATT'S Christian Altar 38 - -BOOK OF COMMON PRAYER. New Standard Edition. The Book of Common Prayer -and Administration of the Sacraments and other Rites and Ceremonies of -the Church, according to the use of the Protestant Episcopal Church in -the United States of America, together with the Psalter or Psalms of -David. Illustrated with Steel Engravings by Overbeck, and a finely -illuminated title-page, in various elegant bindings. Five different -sizes. - - -LAMARTINE'S LAST WORK. - - * * * * * - -_D. Appleton & Co. have recently published,_ - -LES CONFIDENCES. - - * * * * * - -CONFIDENTIAL DISCLOSURES, - -OR - -MEMOIRS OF MY YOUTH, - -BY - -ALPHONSE DE LAMARTINE, - -AUTHOR OF "THE HISTORY OF THE GIRONDISTS," ETC. - -Translated from the French, - -BY EUGENE PLUNKETT. - -One volume 12mo. Paper cover 25 cents. Cloth 50 cents. - - "This volume might well open with the beautiful introductory - sentence in Johnson Rasselas, "Ye who listen with credulity to the - whispers of fancy, or pursue with eagerness the phantoms of hope; - who expect that age will perform the promises of youth, or that the - deficiencies of the present day will be supplied by the - morrow"--give ear! - - "It is a remarkable and most attractive book. The circumstances - under which it has been given to the world are detailed in a - Preface in a manner to enlist our sympathies, and to bring - Lamartine before us as a confiding friend, narrating the scenes and - events of his youth, not as an idle tale, nor to indulge egotism, - but to convey some of the best lessons for the mind and heart. His - description of the home of his youth, and shepherd employment; his - portrait of his mother who was the idol of her children and her - husband--if an object of such pure affection and worth can be - called an idol; the Italian peasant girl _Graziella_; _the young - Aymon de Varien, who passed through skepticism to faith in_ God; - are passages that we have read with absorbing interest. We - understand Lamartine better, and respect him more, for the use he - has made of the discipline of life, nay, even of his youthful - transgressions. It is possible that to some there may appear a - tragic affectation here and there, but we see beneath it the most - genuine feeling, and only a somewhat cold New Englander would find - fault with the mode in which the feeling has expressed - itself.--_Boston Courier._ - - "Although this work is called 'Confidential Disclosures,' it - evidently tells neither the whole truth nor nothing but the truth. - It is, however, none the less agreeable on that account; glowing - and beautiful as is the coloring through which the reader looks on - the illuminated pages of that author's youth and early love, he can - easily pardon the enthusiasm, by turns joyous and melancholy, from - which it sprung. To one whose love of Nature is something more than - a feeling--whose passion for every form of external beauty, joined - to a pure and lofty imagination, gives a vital spirit and sympathy - to every thing on which he looks, the language of this volume is - not extravagant, nor are its glowing and oft repeated descriptions - of mere scenery wearisome. It is a work whose brilliancy all will - admire, but whose true feeling will be appreciated by the - imaginative only. The scenes of the poet's childhood--his free life - on the hills of Burgundy--his ramble in the Jura and among the Alps - of Savoy--his Ossianic attachment for a young girl, whose tower he - watched from the heights and whom he addressed in poetic rhapsodies - about the harp of Morven and the ghosts of Cromla--are all - described with exquisite poetic frankness. The episode of - Graziella, though it is impossible to say how much truth there is - in its details, is the finest thing in the book, and perhaps the - best thing Lamartine has ever written. It is a picture which will - be read and remembered, even should its framework fall into decay. - The translating of this edition is well done, and the original of - several poems introduced in the work is judiciously given in an - appendix."--_Journal of Commerce._ - -D. A. & Co. ALSO PUBLISH IN THE ORIGINAL FRENCH, - -LES CONFIDENCES - -ET - -RAPHAEL, - -PAR M. DE LAMARTINE. - -One volume 8vo. Price $1. - - -BOOKS FOR FAMILY READING, - -Published by D. Appleton & Company. - - * * * * * - - -MRS. ELLIS'S NEW WORKS. - - -I. - -SOCIAL DISTINCTIONS; OR, HEARTS AND HOMES. - -By MRS. ELLIS, Author of "The Women of England" &c. - - - "This work should find a place in every family; it is one of the - best productions of this excellent writer, full of deep and - touching interest, and urging lessons of great practical - importance." - - -II. - -PREVENTION BETTER THAN CURE; - -OR THE MORAL WANTS OF THE WORLD WE LIVE IN. - -By MRS. ELLIS. 1 vol. 12mo. Price 50 cts. paper cover, 75 cts. cloth. - - "We can safely recommend the book to mothers and daughters who - would prize useful hints on the conduct of life, and practical - directions for self-management."--_Christian Enquirer._ - - * * * * * - - -MISS M'INTOSH'S WORKS. - - -I. - -CHARMS AND COUNTER-CHARMS. - -By MARIA. J. M'INTOSH, Author of "Conquest and Self Conquest," "Praise -and Principle," &c. Complete in one handsome volume, 12mo., cloth $1; or -in two parts, paper, 75 cts. - -This work will be found one of the most impressive and beautiful tales -of the day. The moral is felicitously developed, and is true in thought -and feeling. - - -II. - -TWO LIVES; OR, TO SEEM AND TO BE. - -By MARIA J. M'INTOSH. 1 vol. 12mo., paper cover 50 cts., cloth 75 cts. - - "The previous works of Miss M'Intosh, although issued anonymously, - have been popular in the best sense of the word. The simple beauty - of her narratives, combining pure sentiment with high principle, - and noble views of life and its duties, ought to win for them a - hearing at every fireside in our land. We have rarely perused a - tale more interesting and instructive than the one before us, and - we commend it most cordially to the attention of all our - readers."--_Prot. Churchman._ - - -III. - -AUNT KITTY'S TALES. - -By MARIA J. M'INTOSH. A new edition, complete in one vol., 12mo., cloth -75 cts. - -This volume contains the following interesting stories: "Blind Alice," -"Jessie Graham," "Florence Arnott," "Grace and Clara," "Ellen Leslie, or -The Reward of Self-Control." - - * * * * * - - -MISS SEWELL'S WORKS. - -I. - -MARGARET PERCIVAL: A TALE. - -Edited by the REV. WM. SEWELL, B.A.. 2 vols., 12mo., paper cover $1, -cloth $1 50. - - -II. - -GERTRUDE: A TALE. - -Edited by the REV. WM. SEWELL, B.A.. 12mo., cloth 75 cts, paper cover 50 -cts. - - -III. - -AMY HERBERT: A TALE. - -Edited by the REV. WM. SEWELL, B.A. 1 vol. 12mo., cloth 75 cts., paper -cover 50 cts. - - -IV. - -LANETON PARSONAGE: A TALE. - -Edited by the REV. WM. SEWELL, B. A.. 3 vols. 12mo., cloth $2 25, paper -cover $1 50. - - -INTERESTING BOOKS FOR LADIES - -_Published by D. Appleton & Company._ - - * * * * * - - -ELLEN MIDDLETON; - -A TALE. - -BY LADY GEORGIANA FULLERTON. - -One volume 12mo., paper cover 50 c., cloth 75 c. - - -BY THE SAME AUTHOR, - -GRANTLEY MANOR; - -A TALE. - -One volume 12mo., paper cover 50 cents, cloth 75 cents. - - "Lady Georgiana Fullerton's first appearance as a novelist rendered - her famous at once. Ellen Middleton, her first production, was a - powerfully constructed story, manifesting great ability in the - author, which Grantley Manor fully confirms. We commend the book - most cordially."--_Evening Mirror._ - - "The book is an excellent one, and the Lady Georgiana's style is - admirable. It is clear, concise, glowing, and lady-like. Her - dialogue and narrative likewise show great skill in perception and - arrangement."--_Boston Atlas._ - - "Grantley Manor is the title of an exceedingly interesting volume, - which we have read with more than ordinary pleasure. The style is - elegant, the story, which involves a succession of mysteries and - cross purposes, is well developed, and the scene and character - painting is full of spirit and truth. The authoress is certainly a - woman of genius, which she has used to excellent - purpose."--_Southern Literary Messenger._ - - -FRIENDS AND FORTUNE; - -A MORAL TALE. - -BY ANNE HARRIET DRURY. - -One volume 12 mo. paper cover 50 cents, cloth 75 cents. - - "It is a tale delightfully told, and abounding in passages of great - feeling and beauty. Again we are reminded of Goldsmith, and that - which reminds us in a right sense of the "Vicar of Wakefield" must - be a production of no mean order."--_Literary Gazette._ - - "Life, motion, delicacy, and humor are to be found in Miss Drury's - Tale."--_Atheneum._ - - -GRACE LESLIE; - -A TALE. - -From the last London Edition. One volume 12mo., cloth 75 cents. - - "Simplicity is the charm of this story. It can scarcely be said to - have a plot. The tale embraces the history of a month in the life - of a young girl suddenly thrown into society, and for young people - it was originally written. It has been generally popular, however, - for every thing in it is natural. There is neither sameness nor - tameness in the narrative; the characters are numerous, and each is - kept distinct. Moreover, the moral of the story is - unexceptionable."--_Com. Adv._ - - -WALTER LORIMER; - -AND OTHER TALES. - -BY THE AUTHOR OF "AMY HERBERT," "GERTRUDE," ETC. - -Embellished with six colored Plates. 1 vol. 12mo., cloth, 75 cts. - - "There is much that is pure, sweet and touching in the book, * * * - the stories are presented in a style of composition which makes the - work one of high literary character." - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] This entirely new system of making coffee has never yet been -introduced to the public, and was found out by the author of this work -through the following circumstance: Whilst travelling by night in a -railway train, and arriving in due time at the station, where positively -no less than five minutes are allowed to restore exhausted nature, after -a long and tedious journey, and then, by using a certain portion of -manual strength, to push through the crowd to get at what is called the -refreshment room, after waiting for nearly two minutes for my turn to be -served with some of the boiling liquid which they called coffee, being -as bad as any human being could possibly make it, having probably waited -patiently by the side of a winter's fire until the last train made its -appearance, it tasted anything but palatable; but having a long journey -before me, and requiring something to eat and drink, I was obliged to -put up with it; but before I could even partake of half, or finish -masticating some stale toast or over-buttered muffin, the unsociable -bell violently rung to acquaint the passengers that their appetites were -perfectly satisfied, though that incredulous organ would not let us -believe it; and every one being perfectly aware that railway trains, -like time, wait for no one, the hurry of which event, though unpleasant, -made me escape the swallowing the thick part which was deposited at the -bottom of the cup; rushing out of the refreshment room, I jumped into -the wrong carriage, the fidgetty train having changed its place, and the -time being too short to rectify the mistake, I was obliged to make fresh -acquaintance with my new compagnons de voyage, who happened to be as -much dissatisfied with the steaming-hot refreshment as myself, who had -patronized the steaming Mocha. I was at last much pleased to find a wise -man among my new travelling friends, who said, "I never travel at night -without being provided with a _spirited_ companion;" and pulling out of -his carpet-bag a small bottle and gutta-percha goblet of new invention, -we partook of a drop of the best _eau de vie_ I had ever tasted, which -produced on me the pleasant sensation of being relieved of a very -annoying pain. Grateful for his kindness, and always desirous to improve -the domestic comfort, I told him, in making myself known, that, as soon -as I arrived at the Reform Club, I would try several experiments to -simplify the present method of making coffee; and should I be successful -in my researches, I would forward him the receipt on my arrival in -London. I tried to find my first travelling friends, who, more -unfortunate than myself, got in their proper place, and, consequently, -did not meet with the "spirited" friend I did, vowing they would never -take any more coffee at night, especially in a railway train. Having -forwarded the receipt to my friend, he, after having tried it, wrote me -the following note: - -"MY DEAR SIR,--I have made an experiment of your new receipt for coffee, -which you have kindly forwarded to me, and beg to acquaint you that I -never recollect having lasted better. Yours, &c. - -W. C." - -I do strongly advise my readers to give it a trial, and recommend all -providers of refreshment at railway stations not to make the coffee -boiling hot, but to keep the cafetiere in a bain-marie, which would -avoid all the above inconvenience, both as regards quality and heat. - -[2] Some few years since, having a great deal of writing to do within a -certain time, and which could not be done without employing the night as -well as the day, I partook of weak green tea, with a little brandy, -sugar, and lemon-juice in it, as a beverage, and, with light food, I was -enabled to do with but eighteen hours' sleep from 8 o'clock on Monday -morning to 5 o'clock on the following Sunday morning. - -[3] Half veal and beef can be used; or if no veal, all beef. - -[4] See future Letters. - -[5] Foie gras de Strasbourg. - -[6] This word is not found in dictionaries, but is used by poulterers to -denote that small piece of the lungs which is left in the bird. - -[7] The quantity of the meat and vegetable should pretty equally balance -with each other; after such a meal, a man's appetite is perfectly -satisfied, and he is ready for an afternoon's work if required. It also -does not require the aid of any fire, which we so ungratefully abhor in -hot weather. Mr. B. very much approves of it once a week in summer. - -[8] To freeze quickly any description of ice the freezing-pot must be -well set, place it in the centre of the pail, which must be large enough -to give a space of four inches all round, break up small twelve pounds -of ice, which put round at the bottom six inches in depth, over which -put two pounds of salt, beat down tight with a rolling-pin, then more -ice, then salt, proceeding thus until within three inches of the top of -your freezing-pot; saltpetre mixed with the salt will facilitate it in -freezing. - -[9] With regard to the wine, that is a matter I leave entirely to Mr. -B., but his maxim is, that "the best is the cheapest." - -[10] These should be served on dishes with a napkin. - - * * * * * - - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -sauteing that the butter=> sauteing that the butter {pg 18} - -littlle sat=> little salt {pg 39} - -spoonfuls of dem-iglaze=> spoonfuls of demi-glaze {pg 68} - -skimmer gently for two hours=> simmer gently for two hours {pg 127} - -in every dry summers=> in very dry summers {pg 101} - -ro plain melted butter=> or plain melted butter {Pg 104} - -appiles to this => applies to this {pg 131} - -or mushoom or English=> or mushroom or English {pg 148} - -ten minntes=> ten minutes {Pg 150} - -be broiled or sauted=> be broiled or sauted {Pg 138} - -plack pepper=> black pepper {Pg 206} - -rice seperately=> rice separately {Pg 215} - -is for preferable=> is far preferable {Pg 215} - -delightful and varigated=> delightful and variegated {Pg 254} - -in which put your rise=> in which put your rice {Pg 267} - -Ribstone pippins=> Ripstone pippins {Pg 273} - -fire uutil becoming=> fire until becoming {Pg 293} - -shake sugar ever=> shake sugar over {Pg 324} - -Mr. P. is obliged to leave home every week day=> Mr. B. is obliged to -leave home every week day {Pg 336} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Modern Housewife or, Menagere, by -Alexis Soyer - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE MODERN HOUSEWIFE *** - -***** This file should be named 41899.txt or 41899.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/1/8/9/41899/ - -Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images available at The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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