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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of Abbotsford, by Anonymous
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-
-Title: Abbotsford
-       Beautiful Britain series
-
-Author: Anonymous
-
-Release Date: March 9, 2013 [EBook #42289]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ABBOTSFORD ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by Al Haines
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: Cover]
-
-
-
-
-
-[Frontispiece: The Gateway, Abbotsford]
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: Title page]
-
-
-
-
-
-  Beautiful Britain
-
-  Abbotsford
-
-
-
-
-
-  London
-  Adam & Charles Black
-  Soho Square W
-  1912
-
-
-
-
-CONTENTS
-
-
-CHAPTER
-
-  I.  From Cartleyhole to Abbotsford
-  II.  The Creation of Abbotsford
-  III.  Scott at Abbotsford
-  IV.  The Wizard's Farewell to Abbotsford
-  V.  The Later Abbotsford
-
-
-
-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-  1. The Gateway, Abbotsford . . . . . . _Frontispiece_
-  2. The Eildon Hills and River Tweed
-  3. The Cross, Melrose
-  4. Sir Walter Scott's Desk and 'Elbow Chair' in the Study, Abbotsford
-  5. Jedburgh Abbey
-  6. Sir Walter's Sundial, Abbotsford
-  7. Darnick Tower
-  8. The Dining-Room, Abbotsford
-  9. The Garden, Abbotsford
-  10. The Entrance-Hall, Abbotsford
-  11. Dryburgh Abbey
-  12. Abbotsford from the River Tweed
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER I
-
-FROM CARTLEYHOLE TO ABBOTSFORD
-
-Thousands of persons from all parts of the world visit Abbotsford
-annually.  There is no diminution in the pilgrimage to this chief
-shrine of the Border Country, nor is there likely to be.  Scott's name,
-and that of Abbotsford, are secure enough in the affections of men
-everywhere.
-
-It is scarcely necessary to recall that Scott on both sides of his
-house was connected with the Border Country--the 'bold bad Border' of a
-day happily long dead.  He would have been a reiver himself, more than
-likely, and one of its nameless bards to boot, had he lived before the
-Border felt the subdued spirit of modern times.  A descendant of Wat of
-Harden, linked to the best blood of the Border, and with every phase of
-his life redolent of the Border feeling, history has had no difficulty
-in claiming Sir Walter Scott as the most representative Border man the
-world has seen.  He was not born in the Border Country, but practically
-all his life was spent there.  He came to the Border a sickly, delicate
-child, between his third and fourth year, and for threescore years and
-one he seldom left it for any lengthened interval.  Edinburgh was the
-arena of much of his professional career.  But he was happiest, even
-amid the most crushing sorrows of his life, when within earshot of the
-Tweed.  There was not a blither or sunnier boyhood than Scott's at
-Rosebank, where even then he was 'making' himself, and dreaming of the
-days that were to be.  At Ashestiel, the birthplace of the most popular
-poetry of the century before Byron blazed upon the literary horizon,
-his life was singularly untrammelled.  Ashestiel, from being off the
-beaten track perhaps, seems to have lost favour somewhat with the Scott
-student.  At any rate, it is not the shrine it should be, although in
-several respects it is more interesting to lovers of Scott than even
-Abbotsford itself.  As for Abbotsford, may we not say that it is at
-once the proudest, and the most stimulating, and the saddest memorial
-ever associated with a man of letters?  All these places, comprising
-the three periods of Scott's life--Rosebank, Ashestiel, Abbotsford--lie
-as close to the Tweed as can be--none of them more than a few hundred
-paces from it at the outside.  And when the great Borderer's task was
-accomplished, where more fitly could he have rested than with the river
-of his love and of his dreams singing ceaseless requiem around his last
-low bed?
-
-It will be interesting to have a glimpse of Tweedside just as Scott
-appeared upon the scene.  Since his day the valley in many of its
-aspects has not been without change.  Even the remote uplands, long
-untouched by outside influences, have not escaped the modern spirit.
-The river must needs remain _in statu quo_, but the contrast between
-Sir Walter's Tweedside and ours is considerable.  A century of commerce
-and agriculture has wrought marvels on the once bare and featureless
-and uncultivated banks of the Tweed.  And none would have rejoiced at
-its present picturesque and prosperous condition more than Scott
-himself.  Of the valley as it was a hundred years since, some early
-travellers give their impressions.  There is the following from a
-Londoner's point of view, for instance--a somewhat sombre picture, true
-enough, however, of _the upper reaches_ at the time: 'About four in the
-afternoon we were obliged to proceed on our journey to Moffat, a market
-town, where we were informed we should meet with good lodging, which
-made us ride on the more briskly, but notwithstanding all our speed, we
-had such terrible stony ways and tedious miles, that when we thought we
-had been near the place, we met a Scotchman, who told us we were not
-got half way; this put us almost into the spleen, for we could see
-nothing about us but barren mountains on the right and the River Tweed
-on the left, which, running thro' the stones and rocks with a terrible
-noise, seemed to us like the croaking of a Raven, or the tone of a
-Screitch Owle to a dying man, so we were forced to ride on by guesse,
-knowing not a step of the way.'
-
-At Scott's day the Tweed valley, in what are now its most luxuriant
-reaches, exhibited a markedly naked and treeless character.  From
-Abbotsford to Norham Castle the scenery was of the openest.  Here and
-there 'ancestral oaks' still clumped themselves about the great houses,
-with perhaps some further attempt at decorating the landscape.  But
-that was rare enough.  Landlords had not learned the art, not to speak
-of the wisdom, of tree-planting.  It is only within the past hundred
-years that planting has become frequent, and the modern beauty of
-Tweedside emerged into being.  It is said that Scott was one of the
-first to popularize the planting spirit.  His operations at Abbotsford
-certainly induced the neighbouring proprietors to follow suit.  Scott
-of Gala, and the lairds of Ravenswood, Drygrange, Cowdenknowes,
-Gladswood, Bemersyde, Mertoun, Eildon Hall, and Floors, all took their
-lead, more or less, from Abbotsford.  Arboriculture was Scott's most
-passionate hobby.  At least two long articles were penned by him on the
-subject, and he practised the art with extraordinary diligence and
-foresight.  Of botany he knew little, but of trees everything.  As we
-shall see, not the least important part of Abbotsford's creation was
-planning and perfecting that wondrous wealth of woodland--a very
-network about the place, on whose full growth his eyes, alas! were not
-destined to feast.  'Somebody,' he said, 'will look at them, however,
-though I question that they will have the same pleasure in gazing on
-the full-grown oaks that I have had in nursing the saplings.'
-
-Another impression of Tweedside comes to us from the pages of Lockhart.
-We are dealing now with _the site of Abbotsford_ as it was about the
-year 1811.  Scott was tenant of Ashestiel.  Here he had spent eight of
-the pleasantest years of his life.  But his lease was out, and the
-laird himself--Scott's cousin, General Russell--was returning from
-India.
-
-In casting about for a new abode, Scott seems at first to have thought
-of Broadmeadows, on the Yarrow, then in the market, a compact little
-domain which would have suited him well.  Lockhart's one regret was
-that Scott did not purchase Broadmeadows.  Here, surrounded by large
-landed proprietors, instead of a few bonnet-lairds, he would certainly
-have escaped the Abbotsford 'yerd-hunger,' and changed, possibly, the
-whole of his career.  But the Broadmeadows Scott might have been very
-different from _our Sir Walter_.  Of Newark, also, close by, the scene
-of the 'Lay,' he had some fancy, and would fain have fitted it up as a
-residence.  The ancestral home of Harden itself was proposed to him,
-and indeed offered, and he would have removed thither but for its
-inconvenience for shrieval duties.  After all, however, there was
-uppermost in Scott's mind the wish to have a house and land of his
-own--to be 'laird of the cairn and the scaur,' as in the case of
-Broadmeadows, or 'a Tweedside laird' at best, and later on, perhaps, to
-'play the grand old feudal lord again.'  Lockhart assures us that Scott
-was really aiming at higher game.  His ambition was to found a new
-Border family, and to become head of a new branch of the Scotts,
-already so dominant.  He realized his ambition before he died.
-
-[Illustration: THE EILDON HILLS AND RIVER TWEED.  Here Scott loved to
-linger.  "I can stand on the Eildon Hill," he said, "and point out
-forty-three places in war and verse."]
-
-About to quit Ashestiel, therefore, his attention was directed to a
-small farm-holding not far distant, on the south bank of the Tweed,
-some two miles from Galashiels, and about three from Melrose.  Scott
-knew the spot well.  It had 'long been one of peculiar interest for
-him,' from the fact of the near neighbourhood of a Border battlefield,
-first pointed out to him by his father.  By name Newarthaugh, it was
-also known as Cartleyhole, or Cartlawhole, and Cartlihole, according to
-the Melrose Session Records, in which parish it was situated.  The
-place was tenanted for a time by Taits and Dicksons.  Then it seems to
-have passed into the family of Walter Turnbull, school-master of
-Melrose, who disposed of it, in the year 1797, to Dr. Robert Douglas,
-the enterprising and philanthropic minister of Galashiels.  Why Dr.
-Douglas purchased this property nobody has been able to understand.  It
-lay outside his parish, and was never regarded as a desirable or
-dignified possession.  A shrewd man of business, however, he may, like
-Scott, have judged it capable of results, speculating accordingly.  He
-had never lived at Cartleyhole.  The place was laid out in parks, and
-the house, of which, curiously, Scott speaks in a recently recovered
-letter as 'new and substantial,' was in occupation.  The surroundings
-were certainly in a deplorably neglected condition.  The sole attempt
-at embellishment had been limited to a strip of firs so long and so
-narrow that Scott likened it to a black hair-comb.  'The farm,'
-according to Lockhart, 'consisted of a rich meadow or haugh along the
-banks of the river, and about a hundred acres of undulated ground
-behind, all in a neglected state, undrained, wretchedly enclosed, much
-of it covered with nothing better than the native heath.  The farmhouse
-itself was small and poor, with a common kailyard on one flank and a
-staring barn on the other; while in front appeared a filthy pond
-covered with ducks and duckweed, from which the whole tenement had
-derived the unharmonious designation of Clarty Hole.'
-
-Melrose Abbey, the most graceful and picturesque ruin in Scotland,
-already so celebrated in his verse, was visible from many points in the
-neighbourhood.  Dryburgh was not far distant.  Yonder Eildon's triple
-height, sacred to so much of the supernatural in Border lore, reared
-his grey crown to the skies.  There, the Tweed, 'a beautiful river even
-here,' flowed in front, broad and bright over a bed of milk-white
-pebbles.  Selkirk, his Sheriff's headquarters, was within easy reach.
-He was interested in the Catrail, or Picts' Work Ditch, on the opposite
-hillside, so often alluded to in his letters to Ellis; and on his own
-ground were fields, and mounds, and standing-stones, whose placenames
-recalled the struggle of 1526.  A Roman road running down from the
-Eildons to a ford on the Tweed, long used by the Abbots, the erstwhile
-lords of the locality, furnished a new designation for the acres of
-hungry haugh-land--'as poor and bare as Sir John Falstaff's
-regiment'--upon which was destined to be reared the most venerated, and
-probably the most visited shrine in the kingdom.
-
-On May 12, 1811, we find Scott writing to James Ballantyne: 'I have
-resolved to purchase a piece of ground sufficient for a cottage and a
-few fields.  There are two pieces, either of which would suit me, but
-both would make a very desirable property indeed, and could be had for
-between £7,000 and £8,000--or either separate for about half the sum.
-I have serious thoughts of one or both, and must have recourse to my
-pen to make the matter easy.'  By the end of June one of the pieces
-passed into his hands for the sum mentioned--£4,000, half of which,
-according to Scott's bad and sanguine habit, he borrowed from his
-brother John, raising the remainder on the security of 'Rokeby,' as yet
-unwritten.  The letter to Dr. Douglas acknowledging his receipt for the
-last instalment of the purchase-money has been preserved: 'I received
-the discharged bill safe, which puts an end to our relation of debtor
-and creditor:
-
-  'Now the gowd's thine,
-  And the land's mine.
-
-I am glad you have been satisfied with my manner of transacting
-business, and have equal reason at least to thank you for your kindly
-accommodation as to time and manner of payment.  In short, I hope our
-temporary connection forms a happy contradiction to the proverb, "I
-lent my money to my friend; I lost my money and my friend."'  A figure
-of note in his day, Dr. Douglas was born at the manse of Kenmore, in
-1747, and in his twenty-third year was presented to the parish of
-Galashiels, where he laboured till his death in 1820.  He has been
-styled the Father of Galashiels.
-
-Galashiels, when Abbotsford came into being, was a mere thatched
-hamlet.  Then it could boast of not more than a dozen slated houses.
-To-day there is a population of over 13,000.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER II
-
-THE CREATION OF ABBOTSFORD
-
-The first purchase of land was close on a hundred and ten acres, half
-of which were to be planted, and the remainder kept in pasture and
-tillage.  An ornamental cottage with a pillared porch--a print of which
-is still preserved--after the style of an English vicarage, was agreed
-upon, and it was here that Scott passed the first years of his
-Abbotsford life.  He had many correspondents during this period.
-Daniel Terry, an architect turned actor, was probably his chief adviser
-as to Abbotsford and its furnishings, no end of letters passing between
-them.  Morritt of Rokeby was much in his confidence, and Joanna
-Baillie, 'our immortal Joanna,' whose 'Family Legend,' had been
-produced at Edinburgh the previous year under Scott's auspices.  The
-plans for his house were at first of the simplest.  He thus describes
-them to Miss Baillie: 'My dreams about my cottage go on.  My present
-intention is to have only two spare bedrooms, with dressing-rooms, each
-of which on a pinch will have a couch-bed; but I cannot relinquish my
-Border principle of accommodating all the cousins and _duniwastles_,
-who will rather sleep on chairs, and on the floor, and in the hayloft,
-than be absent when folks are gathered together.'
-
-[Illustration: Abbotsford from the River Tweed]
-
-To Morritt we find him writing: 'I have fixed only two points
-respecting my intended cottage--one is that it shall be in my garden,
-or rather kailyard; the other, that the little drawing-room shall open
-into a little conservatory, in which conservatory there shall be a
-fountain.  These are articles of taste which I have long since
-determined upon; but I hope before a stone of my paradise is begun we
-shall meet and collogue upon it'; but soon after, as an excuse for
-beginning 'Rokeby,' his fourth verse romance, he says: 'I want to build
-my cottage a little better than my limited finances will permit out of
-my ordinary income.'  Later on he tells Lord Byron that 'he is
-labouring to contradict an old proverb, and make a silk purse out of a
-sow's ear--namely, to convert a bare haugh and brae into a comfortable
-farm'; and to Sarah Smith, a London tragic actress, he writes:
-'Everybody, after abusing me for buying the ugliest place on Tweedside,
-begins now to come over to my side.  I think it will be pretty six or
-seven years hence, whoever may come to see and enjoy, for the sweep of
-the river is a very fine one of almost a mile in length, and the ground
-is very unequal, and therefore well adapted for showing off trees.'
-Scott, as was said, took a profound interest in tree-planting.  Had he
-not been able to add by purchase the neighbouring hills to his original
-lands, it was said that he would have requested permission of the
-owners to plant the grounds, for the mere pleasure of the occupation,
-and to beautify the landscape.  'I saunter about,' he said to Lady
-Abercorn, 'from nine in the morning till five at night with a plaid
-about my shoulders and an immense bloodhound at my heels, and stick in
-sprigs which are to become trees when I shall have no eyes to look at
-them!'  He had a painter's as well as a poet's eye for scenery: 'You
-can have no idea of the exquisite delight of a planter,' he said; 'he
-is like a painter laying on his colours--at every moment he sees his
-effects coming out.  There is no art or occupation comparable to this;
-it is full of past, present, and future enjoyment.  I look back to the
-time when there was not a tree here, only bare heath; I look round and
-see thousands of trees growing up, all of which--I may say almost each
-of which--have received my personal attention.  I remember five years
-ago looking forward, with the most delighted expectation, to this very
-hour, and as each year has passed the expectation has gone on
-increasing.  I do the same now; I anticipate what this plantation and
-that one will presently be, if only taken care of, and there is not a
-spot of which I do not watch the progress.  Unlike building, or even
-painting, or indeed any other kind of pursuit, this has no end, and is
-never interrupted, but goes on from day to day and from year to year
-with a perpetually augmenting interest.  Farming I hate; what have I to
-do with fattening and killing beasts, or raising corn only to cut it
-down, and to wrangle with farmers about prices, and to be constantly at
-the mercy of the seasons?  There can be no such disappointments or
-annoyances in planting trees.'
-
-[Illustration: THE CROSS, MELROSE.  Believed to be the oldest "Mercat
-Cross" on the border.]
-
-Scott left Ashestiel at Whitsunday, 1812--a rather comical 'flitting,'
-according to his own account of it.  'The neighbours,' he writes to
-Lady Alvanley, 'have been much delighted with the procession of my
-furniture, in which old swords, bows, targets, and lances made a very
-conspicuous show.  A family of turkeys was accommodated within the
-helmet of some _preux_ chevalier of ancient Border fame; and the very
-cows, for aught I know, were bearing banners and muskets.  I assure
-your ladyship that this caravan, attended by a dozen of ragged, rosy
-peasant children, carrying fishing-rods and spears, and leading ponies,
-greyhounds, and spaniels, would, as it crossed the Tweed, have
-furnished no bad subject for the pencil, and really reminded me of one
-of the gypsy groups of Callot upon their march.'  The year 1812 was one
-of his busiest.  Five days every week until the middle of July he did
-Court duty at Edinburgh.  Saturday evening saw him at Abbotsford.  On
-Monday he superintended the licking into shape of his new domicile, and
-at night he was coaching it to the city.  During the Court recess he
-pegged away at 'Rokeby' and other work under circumstances that must
-have been trying enough.  'As for the house and the poem,' he writes to
-Morritt, 'there are twelve masons hammering at the one and one poor
-noddle at the other.'  He did not then know the luxury of a private
-'den' as at Castle Street.  A window corner, curtained off in the one
-habitable room which served for dining-room, drawing-room, and
-school-room, constituted his earliest Abbotsford study.  There, amid
-the hammer's incessant fall, and the hum of many voices, and constant
-interruptions, he plodded on, and got through a fair amount.  The
-letters to Terry commence in September, 1812, and show that some little
-progress had been made: 'We have got up a good garden-wall, complete
-stables in the haugh, and the old farm-yard enclosed with a wall, with
-some little picturesque additions in front.  The new plantations have
-thriven amazingly well, the acorns are coming up fast, and Tom Purdie
-is the happiest and most consequential person in the world.'  To Joanna
-Baillie he sends this characteristic note, in the beginning of 1813:
-'No sooner had I corrected the last sheet of 'Rokeby' than I escaped to
-this Patmos as blithe as bird on tree, and have been ever since most
-decidedly idle--that is to say with busy idleness.  I have been
-banking, and securing, and dyking against the river, and planting
-willows, and aspens, and weeping birches.  I have now laid the
-foundations of a famous background of copse, with pendent trees in
-front; and I have only to beg a few years to see how my colours will
-come out of the canvas.  Alas! who can promise that?  But somebody will
-take my place--and enjoy them, whether I do or no'; and in March he
-adds: 'What I shall finally make of this villa work I don't know, but
-in the meantime it is very entertaining'; and again: 'This little place
-comes on as fast as can be reasonably hoped.'  To Lady Louisa Stuart he
-writes: 'We are realizing the nursery tale of the man and his wife who
-lived in a vinegar bottle, for our only sitting-room is just 12 feet
-square, and my Eve alleges that I am too big for our paradise.'  In
-October, 1813, Terry is told that 'these are no times for building,'
-but in the following spring, pressing the Morritts to visit him, he
-says: 'I am arranging this cottage a little more conveniently, to put
-off the plague and expense of building another year, and I assure you I
-expect to spare you and Mrs. Morritt a chamber in the wall, with a
-dressing-room and everything handsome about you.  You will not
-stipulate, of course, for many square feet.'  In a letter to Terry,
-dated November 10, 1814--the year of 'Waverley'--further progress is
-reported: 'I wish you saw Abbotsford, which begins this season to look
-the whimsical, gay, odd cabin that we had chalked out.  I have been
-obliged to relinquish Stark's (the Edinburgh architect, who died before
-the building was well begun) plan, which was greatly too expensive.  So
-I have made the old farm-house my _corps de logis_ with some outlying
-places for kitchen, laundry, and two spare bedrooms, which run along
-the east wall of the farm-court, not without some picturesque effect.
-A perforated cross, the spoils of the old kirk of Galashiels, decorates
-an advanced door, and looks very well.'  Not much was done during the
-next two years, but in November, 1816, a new set of improvements was
-under consideration.  Abbotsford was rapidly losing its cottage
-character.  The 'romance' period was begun.  A notable
-addition--connecting the farm-house with the line of buildings on the
-right--was then agreed upon, on which Scott communicates with Terry:
-'Bullock[1] will show you the plan, which I think is very ingenious,
-and Blore has drawn me a very handsome elevation, both to the road and
-to the river.  This addition will give me a handsome boudoir opening
-into the little drawing-room, and on the other side to a handsome
-dining-parlour of 27 feet by 18, with three windows to the north and
-one to the south, the last to be Gothic and filled with stained glass.
-Besides these commodities there is a small conservatory, and a study
-for myself, which we design to fit up with ornaments from Melrose
-Abbey.'  In the same letter he says: 'I expect to get some decorations
-from the old Tolbooth of Edinburgh, particularly the copestones of the
-doorway, and a niche or two.  Better get a niche _from_ the Tolbooth
-than a niche _in_ it to which such building operations are apt to bring
-the projectors.'
-
-
-[1] George Bullock and Edward Blore, London architects and furnishers.
-Atkinson was the artist who arranged the interior of Abbotsford.
-
-
-By July, 1817, the foundation of the existing house, which extends from
-the hall westwards to the original courtyard, had been laid, and Scott
-found a new source of constant occupation in watching the proceedings
-of his masons.  In consequence of a blunder or two during his absence,
-'I perceive the necessity,' he said, 'of remaining at the helm.'  To
-Joanna Baillie he writes in September: 'I get on with my labours here;
-my house is about to be roofed in, and a comical concern it is.'  There
-is some correspondence in October between Scott and Terry relative to
-the tower, a leading feature of the building.  Scott mentions that
-(Sir) David Wilkie, who had just been his guest, 'admires the whole as
-a composition, and that is high authority.'  'I agree with you that the
-tower will look rather rich for the rest of the building, yet you may
-be assured that, with diagonal chimneys and notched gables, it will
-have a very fine effect, and is in Scotch architecture by no means
-incompatible.'  In the beginning of 1818, he again writes to Terry: 'I
-am now anxious to complete Abbotsford.  I have reason to be proud of
-the finishing of my castle, for even of the tower, for which I
-trembled, not a stone has been shaken by the late terrific gale which
-blew a roof clean off in the neighbourhood.'  Lockhart, who saw
-Abbotsford for the first time in 1818, confesses that the building
-presented a somewhat 'fantastic appearance,' the new and old by no
-means harmonizing.  He was there again in 1819, and in February, 1820,
-he married Scott's daughter.  In the same year Scott writes to his wife
-from London, whither he had gone to receive his baronetcy: 'I have got
-a delightful plan for the addition at Abbotsford which, I think, will
-make it quite complete, and furnish me with a handsome library, and you
-with a drawing-room and better bedroom.  It will cost me a little hard
-work to meet the expense, but I have been a good while idle.'  The
-plans for these new buildings, including the wall and gateway of the
-courtyard and the graceful stone screen which divides it from the
-garden, were made by Blore, although the screen--with its carvings
-taken from details of stone-work at Melrose Abbey--was originally
-devised by Sir Walter himself.  During the winter of 1821 the new
-operations were commenced.  By the spring of 1822 they were in full
-swing.  'It is worth while to come,' he writes to Lord Montagu, 'were
-it but to see what a romance of a house I am making'; and to Terry
-later on: 'The new castle is now roofing, and looks superb--in fact, a
-little too good for the estate; but we must work the harder to make the
-land suitable.'  That same summer the place was besieged by visitors
-from the South, who, after witnessing the King's reception at
-Edinburgh, hastened out to see Abbotsford.  In October, 1822, he writes
-to his son Walter: 'My new house is quite finished as to masonry, and
-we are now getting on the roof just in time to face the bad weather.'
-In November, 1822, and January, 1823, there are long letters to Terry:
-'The house is completely roofed.  I never saw anything handsomer than
-the grouping of towers, chimneys, etc., when seen at a proper
-distance.'  With Terry all sorts of subjects were discussed--bells, and
-a projected gas installation, along with a constant enumeration of
-curios and relics, on which he is urged to spare no expense.  'About
-July,' Scott writes at the beginning of 1824, 'Abbotsford will, I
-think, be finished, when I shall, like the old Duke of Queensberry who
-built Drumlanrig, fold up the accounts in a sealed parcel, with a label
-bidding "the deil pike out the een" of any of my successors that shall
-open it.'  By Christmas, it was completed, and with the New Year's
-festivities a large and gay party celebrated the 'house-warming,' of
-which Basil Hall's sprightly 'Journal,' incorporated in the 'Life,'
-supplies a singularly agreeable account.  But there is no room to
-quote.  It was a doubly joyous occasion, marking not only the
-realization of Scott's long-cherished scheme as to his 'castle,' but
-the engagement of his eldest son, with whom, as he must have felt at
-the time, were the fortunes of the future Abbotsford.  Of the year
-entered so auspiciously, none dreamt what the end was to be.
-
-[Illustration: SIR WALTER SCOTT'S DESK AND "ELBOW CHAIR," IN THE STUDY,
-ABBOTSFORD.  At the desk most of the novels were written.  Certainly no
-other article of furniture has been so intimately associated with
-Scott.]
-
-In the creation of Abbotsford not only was the cottage of 1812
-transformed to the castle of 1824, but the estate itself was
-continually enlarging.  Possession of land was a crowning passion with
-Scott.  He was always driving bargains, as he declared--on the wrong
-side of his purse, however--with the needy, greedy cock-lairds of the
-locality.  'It rounds off the property so handsomely,' he says in one
-of his letters.  Once, on his friend Ferguson remarking that he had
-paid what appeared to be one of his usual fabulous prices for a
-particular stretch, Scott answered quite good-humouredly, 'Well, well,
-it is only to me the scribbling of another volume more of nonsense.'
-The first purchase was, as we have seen, the hundred odd acres of
-Clarty Hole.  In 1813 he made his second purchase, which consisted of
-the hilly tract stretching from the Roman road near Turn-Again towards
-Cauldshiels Loch, then a desolate and naked mountain mere.  To have
-this at one end of his property as a contrast to the Tweed at the other
-'was a prospect for which hardly any sacrifice would have appeared too
-much.'  It cost him about £4,000.  In 1815, Kaeside--Laidlaw's home--on
-the heights between Abbotsford and Melrose, passed into his hands for
-another £4,000, and more than doubled the domain.  The house has
-changed considerably since Laidlaw's halcyon days.  By 1816 the estate
-had grown to about 1,000 acres.  In 1816 and 1817 he paid £16,000 for
-the two Toftfields, altering the name of the new and unfinished mansion
-to Huntlyburn, from a supposed but absolutely erroneous association
-with the 'Huntlee Bankis'[2] of the Thomas the Rhymer romance.  In
-1820, Burnfoot, afterwards Chiefswood, and Harleyburn fell to his hands
-for £2,300, and there were many minor purchases of which Lockhart takes
-no notice.  Scott was very anxious to acquire the estate of
-Faldonside,[3] adjoining Abbotsford to the west, and actually offered
-£30,000 for it, but without success.  He was similarly unsuccessful
-with Darnick Tower, which lay into his lands on the east, and which he
-was extremely desirous of including in Abbotsford.  Scott's suggestion
-rather spurred the owner, John Heiton, to restore the ancient
-peel-house as a retreat for his own declining days, and it is still in
-excellent preservation--one of the best-preserved peels on the
-Border--and a veritable museum, crammed from floor to ceiling with
-curios, relics, and mementos both of the past and present.
-
-
-
-[2] The 'Huntlee Bankis' lie between Melrose and Newtown, on the
-eastern slope of the Eildons, on the left side of the highway as it
-bends round to the west, going towards, and within about two miles of,
-Melrose.  The spot is indicated by the famous Eildon Tree Stone.
-
-[3] The place belonged in 1566 to Andrew Ker, one of the murderers of
-Rizzio.  In 1574 Ker married the widow of John Knox, the Reformer.
-Nicol Milne was proprietor in Scott's day.
-
-
-[Illustration: JEDBURGH ABBEY.  This grand ruin is of red sandstone,
-and except that it is roofless is in excellent preservation.]
-
-But even 'yerd-hunger' must be satisfied, and in Scott's case there was
-nothing for it save to steel the flesh against further desire.  In
-November, 1825, there is the following entry in his diary: 'Abbotsford
-is all I can make it, so I resolve on no more building and no purchases
-of land till times are quite safe.'  But times were never safe again.
-Abbotsford was all but within sound of the 'muffled drum.'  Very
-soon--December 18, 1825--Scott was to write these words: 'Sad hearts at
-Darnick and in the cottages of Abbotsford.  I have half resolved never
-to see the place again.  How could I tread my hall with such a
-diminished crest!  How live a poor, indebted man where I was once the
-wealthy, the honoured!'  And again on January 26, 1826: 'I have walked
-my last on the domains I have planted, sat the last time in the halls I
-have built'--reflections happily unrealized, though, as a matter of
-fact, Scott was then the laird of Abbotsford in name only, and nothing
-more.
-
-The building and furnishing of Abbotsford are estimated to have cost
-over £25,000.  The contract for the 1824 edifice was in the capable
-hands of the Smiths of Darnick, with whom Scott was on the most cordial
-terms.  John Smith (the sculptor of the Wallace statue at Bemersyde)
-was a singularly able craftsman, and his staff of workmen, with Adam
-Paterson for foreman, were known all over the Border.  For the interior
-decorations--painting, papering, etc., and even for some of the
-carvings and casts--Scott generally gave employment to local labour.
-Much of the costlier furniture was shipped from London, but the great
-bulk of the work was carried through by tradesmen in the district,
-selected by Scott himself, and in whom he placed implicit confidence.
-The estate, all told, must have cost at least £60,000.  It extended to
-1,500 acres, and the annual rental in Scott's day was only about £350.
-
-Such was the creation of Scott's Abbotsford, a real 'romance in stone
-and lime,' to use the Frenchman's hackneyed phrase.  Never had Sir
-Walter deeper delight than when its walls were rising skywards, and the
-dream of his youth taking steady shape by the silvery side of the
-Tweed.  'I have seen much, but nothing like my ain house,' he cried--a
-broken, dying man returned to Abbotsford, only to be borne forth again.
-Nor has history been slow to add its Amen.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER III
-
-SCOTT AT ABBOTSFORD
-
-Of the Abbotsford life in the seven or eight brilliant seasons
-preceding the disaster of 1826 Lockhart's exquisite word-pictures are
-far the finest things in the Biography.  Scott's dream was now fairly
-realized.  He was not only a lord of acres, but a kind of mediĉval
-chieftain as well.  His cottage was transformed to a superb mansion,
-like some creation of the 'Arabian Nights,' and the whole estate,
-acquired at a cost far exceeding its real value, had grown to one of
-the trimmest and snuggest on Tweedside.  A comparative failure at the
-Bar, Scott succeeded well otherwise in his professional career.  His
-income from the Court Clerkship and Sheriffdom totalled £1,600, and
-from other sources he had an additional £400 a year.  As the most
-prosperous book-producer of the period, he was netting an annual profit
-of no less than £10,000.  His family was grown up, and his home life,
-notwithstanding some harsh things said about Lady Scott, was of the
-happiest.  Unliterary, and Frenchified to a degree, Charlotte Carpenter
-was not the ideal helpmeet, perhaps, for a man of Scott's calibre and
-temperament.  But that they lived comfortably together, that she made
-him an excellent wife, and that Scott was much attached to her, must be
-taken for granted, else Lockhart and the others are equivocating.
-There is at least one glimpse into Scott's heart which cannot savour of
-hypocrisy--the occasion of her death.  Some of the most touching
-passages in the Diary belong to that event.  As lover, husband, father,
-there is no question of the acuteness with which he felt her loss who
-had been his 'thirty years' companion.'  Within less than six months
-the two biggest blows of his life fell upon Scott.  Ruined, then
-widowed, his cup of grief was drained to the utmost.  But before the
-fatal '26 Scott's life was an eminently ideal one.  Abbotsford was all
-he could make it.  He had reached the loftiest rung of the ladder.
-Long had he been the celebrity of the hour, not in Britain only, but
-throughout Europe itself.  Probably no British author of his time was
-more widely known, and none, it is certain, was surrounded with so many
-of the material comforts.  It was truly a summer fulness for Scott at
-Abbotsford ere the autumn winds or the biting breath of winter had
-begun to chill his cheek.
-
-[Illustration: SIR WALTER'S SUNDIAL, ABBOTSFORD.  The dial stone in the
-flower garden, inscribed with the motto "For the Night Cometh," is an
-object of suggestive interest.]
-
-A glance at the Abbotsford life will bring us nearer Scott as a
-man--and as the most lovable of men.  Treading, as one does to-day, in
-his very footsteps, we shall want to know how he lived there, and in
-what manner the pleasant days were spent.  Scott's habits at
-Abbotsford, as at Ashestiel, were delightfully simple.  In the country
-he was a rustic of the rustics.  Formality vanished to a considerable
-extent when he changed his townhouse for the bracing atmosphere of the
-Tweed.  But always methodical in his literary operations, he never
-allowed the freer life of Abbotsford to interfere with whatever tasks
-he had on hand.  He did not sit late into the night.  As a rule, the
-Abbotsford day ended for Scott by ten o'clock.  He rose at five, lit
-his own fire in the season, shaving and dressing with precision.
-Attired generally in his green shooting-jacket, he was at his desk by
-six, and hard at work till nine.  About half-past nine, when the family
-met for breakfast, he would enter the room 'rubbing his hands for
-glee,' for by that time he had done enough, as he said, 'to break the
-neck of the day's work.'  After breakfast, he allowed his guests to
-fill in the next couple of hours or so for themselves--fishing,
-shooting, driving, or riding, with a retinue of keepers and grooms at
-command.  Meantime he was busy with his correspondence, or a chapter
-for Ballantyne to be dispatched by the 'Blucher,' the Edinburgh and
-Melrose coach, by which he himself frequently travelled to and from
-Abbotsford.  At noon he was 'his own man,' and among his visitors, or
-felling trees with the workmen on the estate, laying wagers, and
-competing with the best of them.  When the weather was wet and stormy
-he kept to his study for several hours during the day, that he might
-have a reserve fund to draw from on good days.  To his visitors he
-appeared more the man of leisure than the indefatigable author
-conferring pleasure on thousands.  Only a careful husbanding of the
-moments could have enabled him to give the greater part of afternoon
-and evening to his guests.  'I know,' said Cadell, the publisher, once
-to him, 'that you contrive to get a few hours in your own room, and
-that may do for the mere pen-work, but when is it that you think?'
-'Oh,' said Scott, 'I lie simmering over things for an hour or so before
-I get up, and there's the time I am dressing to overhaul my
-half-sleeping, half-waking _projet de chapitre_, and when I get the
-paper before me it commonly runs off pretty easily.  Besides, I often
-take a dose in the plantations, and while Tom marks out a dyke or a
-drain as I have directed, one's fancy may be running its ain riggs in
-some other world.'  His maxim was never to be doing nothing, and in
-making the most of the opportunities, he served both himself and his
-friends.  Lockhart's reminiscences of the Abbotsford life, so
-delightfully vivid, convey better than anything else something of the
-ideal charm of Scott and his circle.  But to Lockhart all may go on
-their own account, since lack of space forbids more than a mere
-quotation.
-
-[Illustration: DARNICK TOWER.  One of the best preserved Peels on the
-border.  Open to the public and well worth a visit.]
-
-The Abbotsford Hunt, one of the enjoyable annual outings--a coursing
-match on an extensive scale--affords material for Lockhart's best vein,
-especially the Hunt dinner, which for many of the neighbouring yeomen
-and farmers was _the_ event of the year.  'The company were seldom
-under thirty in number, and sometimes they exceeded forty.  The feast
-was such as suited the occasion--a baron of beef, roasted, at the foot
-of the table, a salted round at the head, while tureens of hare-soup,
-hotchpotch, and cockieleekie extended down the centre, and such light
-articles as geese, turkeys, an entire sucking-pig, a singed sheep's
-head, and the unfailing haggis were set forth by way of side-dishes.
-Black-cock and moor-fowl, snipe, black and white puddings, and pyramids
-of pancakes, formed the second course.  Ale was the favourite beverage
-during dinner, but there was plenty of port and sherry for those whose
-stomachs they suited.  The quaighs of Glenlivet were filled brimful,
-and tossed off as if they held water.  The wine decanters made a few
-rounds of the table, but the hints for hot punch and toddy soon became
-clamorous.  Two or three bowls were introduced and placed under the
-supervision of experienced manufacturers--one of these being usually
-the Ettrick Shepherd--and then the business of the evening commenced in
-good earnest.  The faces shone and glowed like those at Camacho's
-wedding; the chairman told his richest stories of old rural life,
-Lowland or Highland; Ferguson and humbler heroes fought their
-Peninsular battles o'er again; the stalwart Dandie Dinmonts lugged out
-their last winter's snow-storm, the parish scandal, perhaps, or the
-dexterous bargain of the Northumberland tryst.  Every man was knocked
-down for the song that he sung best, or took most pleasure in singing.
-Shortreed gave "Dick o' the Cow," or "Now Liddesdale has ridden a
-raid"; his son Thomas shone without a rival in the "Douglas Tragedy"
-and the "Twa Corbies"; a weather-beaten, stiff-bearded veteran,
-"Captain" Ormiston, had the primitive pastoral of "Cowdenknowes" in
-sweet perfection.  Hogg produced the "Women Folk," or "The Kye comes
-Hame," and, in spite of many grinding notes, contrived to make
-everybody delighted, whether with the fun or the pathos of his ballad.
-The Melrose doctor sang in spirited style some of Moore's masterpieces.
-A couple of retired sailors joined in "Bold Admiral Duncan," and the
-gallant croupier crowned the last bowl with "Ale, good ale, thou art my
-darling."  And so it proceeded until some worthy, who had fifteen or
-twenty miles to ride, began to insinuate that his wife and bairns would
-be getting sorely anxious about the fords, and the Dumpies and Hoddins
-were at last heard neighing at the gate, and it was voted that the hour
-had come for _doch an dorrach_, the stirrup-cup, a bumper all round of
-the unmitigated mountain dew.  How they all contrived to get home in
-safety Heaven only knows, but I never heard of any serious accident
-except upon one occasion, when James Hogg made a bet at starting that
-he would leap over his wall-eyed pony as she stood, and broke his nose
-in this experiment of o'ervaulting ambition.  One comely good-wife, far
-off among the hills, amused Sir Walter by telling him the next time he
-passed her homestead after one of these jolly doings, what her
-husband's first words were when he alighted at his own door--"Ailie, my
-woman, I'm ready for my bed; and oh, lass, I wish I could sleep for a
-towmont, for there's only ae thing in this warld worth living for, and
-that's the Abbotsford Hunt."'
-
-Nor was the good old custom of the Kirn omitted at Abbotsford.  Every
-autumn, before proceeding to Edinburgh, Scott gave a 'Harvest Home,' to
-which all the tenantry and their friends--as many as the barn could
-hold--were invited.  Sir Walter and his family were present during the
-first part of the evening, to dispense the good things and say a few
-words of farewell.  Old and young danced from sunset to sunrise, to the
-skirling of John o' Skye's pipes, or the strains of some 'Wandering
-Willie's' fiddle, the laird having his private joke for every old wife
-or 'gausie carle,' his arch compliment for the ear of every bonnie
-lass, and his hand and his blessing for the head of every little Eppie
-Daidle from Abbotstown or Broomielees.  Hogmanay, and the immemorial
-customs of the New Year, as celebrated in Scotland--now fast dying
-out--obtained full respect at Abbotsford.  Scott said it was uncanny,
-and would certainly have felt it very uncomfortable not to welcome the
-New Year in the midst of his family and a few cronies in the orthodox
-fashion.  But nothing gave him such delight as the visit which he
-received as laird from all the children on his estate on the last
-morning of the year, when, as he was fond of quoting:
-
-  'The cottage bairns sing blythe and gay
-  At the ha' door for hogmanay.'
-
-
-The words and form of the drama exist in various versions in every part
-of the Border Country, almost every parish possessing its own
-rendering.  The _dramatis personĉ_, three or four in number, sometimes
-even five, arrayed in fantastic fashion, proceeded from house to house,
-generally contenting themselves with the kitchen for an arena, where
-the performance was carried through in presence of the entire
-household.  'Galations' (not 'Goloshin') is the title of the play.
-Some account of it will be found in Chambers' 'Popular Rhymes of
-Scotland,' and in Maidment's scarce pamphlet on the subject (1835).
-
-From what has been said, it is not difficult to imagine the ideal
-relationship existing between Scott and his dependents at Abbotsford.
-They were surely the happiest retainers and domestics in the world.
-How considerate he was in the matter of dwellings, for instance!  He
-realized that he owed them a distinct duty in diffusing as much comfort
-and security into their lives as possible.  They were not mere goods
-and chattels, but beings of flesh and blood, with human sympathies like
-himself.  And he treated them as such.  Amid the severities of winter,
-some of his Edinburgh notes to Laidlaw are perfect little gems of their
-kind: 'This dreadful weather will probably stop Mercer (the weekly
-carrier).  It makes me shiver in the midst of superfluous comforts to
-think of the distress of others.  I wish you to distribute £10 amongst
-our poorer neighbours so as may best aid them.  I mean not only the
-actually indigent, but those who are, in our phrase, _ill off_.  I am
-sure Dr. Scott (of Darnlee) will assist you with his advice in this
-labour of love.  I think part of the wood-money, too, should be given
-among the Abbotstown folks if the storm keeps them off work, as is
-like.'  And again: 'If you can devise any means by which hands can be
-beneficially employed at Abbotsford, I could turn £50 or £100 extra
-into service.  If it made the poor and industrious people a little
-easier, I should have more pleasure in it than any money I ever spent
-in my life.'  'I think of my rooks amongst this snowstorm, also of the
-birds, and not a little of the poor.  For benefit of the former, I hope
-Peggy throws out the crumbs, and a cornsheaf or two for the game, if
-placed where poachers could not come at them.  For the poor people I
-wish you to distribute £5 or so among the neighbouring poor who may be
-in distress, and see that our own folks are tolerably well off.'  'Do
-not let the poor bodies want for a £5, or even a £10, more or less'--
-
-  'We'll get a blessing wi' the lave,
-  And never miss 't.'
-
-Socially, the bond between Scott and his servants was a characteristic
-object-lesson.  'He speaks to us,' said one, 'as if we were blood
-relations.'  Like Swift, he maintained that an affectionate and
-faithful servant should always be considered in the character of a
-humble friend.  Even the household domestics 'stayed on' year after
-year.  Some of them grew grey in his service.  One or two died.  He had
-always several pensioners beside him.  Abbotsford was like a little
-happy world of its own--the most emphatic exception to the cynic's
-rule.  Scott was 'a hero and a gentleman' to those who knew him most
-intimately in the common and disillusionizing routine of domestic life.
-
-In reading Lockhart, one feels that, aristocrat as Scott was, familiar
-with the nobility and literary lions of the time, he was most at home,
-and happiest, perhaps, in the fellowship of commoner men, such as
-Laidlaw, and Purdie, and John Usher, and James Hogg, who were knit to
-him as soul to soul.  Of some of these he declared that they had become
-almost an integral part of his existence.  We know how life was
-inexpressibly changed for Scott minus Tom Purdie, and to dispense with
-Laidlaw, when that had become absolutely necessary, was as the iron
-entering his soul.  The most perfect pen-portraits in Lockhart are
-those of Purdie (the Cristal Nixon of 'Redgauntlet'), that faithful
-factotum and friend for whom he mourned as a brother; and 'dear Willie'
-Laidlaw, betwixt whom and Scott the most charming of all master and
-servant correspondence passed; and 'auld Pepe'--Peter Mathieson, his
-coachman, a wondrously devoted soul, content to set himself in the
-plough-stilts, and do the most menial duties, rather than quit
-Abbotsford at its darkest.  John Swanston, too, Purdie's successor, and
-Dalgleish, the butler, occupy exalted niches in the temple of humble
-and honest worth and sweet sacrificing service for a dear master's sake
-who was much more than master to them all.  Purdie's grave, close to
-Melrose Abbey, with a modest stone erected by Sir Walter Scott, is
-probably the most visited of the 'graves of the common people' almost
-anywhere.  It is eighty-three years since, apparently in the fullest
-enjoyment of health and vigour, he bowed his head one evening on the
-table, and dropped asleep--for ever.  Laidlaw lies at Contin amid the
-Highland solitudes.  But few from Tweedside have beheld the green turf
-beneath which his loyal heart has been long resting, or read the simple
-inscription on the white marble that marks a spot so sacred to all
-lovers of Abbotsford and Sir Walter.
-
-  'Here lie the remains of William Laidlaw,
-  Born at Blackhouse in Yarrow,
-  November, 1780.  Died at Contin, May 18, 1845.'
-
-
-No account of the Abbotsford life can fail to take notice of the
-extraordinary number of visitors, who, even at that early date, flocked
-to the shrine of Sir Walter.  The year 1825, as has been said, must be
-regarded as the high-water mark in the splendours of Abbotsford.  From
-the dawn of 'Waverley,' but particularly the period immediately
-preceding the crash, Abbotsford was the most sought-after house in the
-kingdom.  It was seldom without its quota of guests.  'Like a cried
-fair,' Scott described it on one occasion.  'A hotel widout de pay,'
-was Lady Scott's more matter-of-fact comparison.  What a profoundly
-interesting and curious record a register of visitors to Abbotsford
-would have been!
-
-[Illustration: THE DINING-ROOM, ABBOTSFORD.  "His own great parlour" is
-not open to the public.  It was the first room of any pretension that
-Scott built at Abbotsford.]
-
-Scott's first really distinguished visitor from the other side of the
-Atlantic was Washington Irving.  He was there in August, 1817, whilst
-the building operations were in progress.  Following Irving, came Lady
-Byron for one day only.  Though Scott met Byron in London, and they
-frequently corresponded, Lord Byron was never at Abbotsford.  In that
-same year Sir David Wilkie visited Scott to paint his picture, the
-'Abbotsford Family.'  Sir Humphry Davy was another visitor.  One of the
-most welcome of all was Miss Edgeworth, who stayed for a fortnight in
-1823.  Tom Moore came in 1825, and in 1829 Mrs. Hemans, visiting the
-Hamiltons at Chiefswood, was daily at Abbotsford.  Susan Ferrier,
-author of 'Marriage' and 'Inheritance,' visited Scott twice.
-Wordsworth, greatest name of all, was the last.  He arrived on
-September 21, 1831, and two days later Scott, a broken invalid, left
-for the Continent.
-
-To the list of Scott's intimate friends, based on the Biography, Thomas
-Faed's picture, 'Scott and his Literary Friends,'[1] offers a good
-index.  The piece is purely imaginary, for the persons represented were
-never all at Abbotsford at the same time, two of them, indeed--Crabbe
-and Campbell--never having seen it.  Scott is represented as reading
-the manuscript of a new novel; on his right, Henry Mackenzie, his
-oldest literary friend, occupies the place of honour.  Hogg, the
-intentest figure in the group, sits at Scott's feet to the left.  Kit
-North's leonine head and shoulders lean across the back of a chair.
-Next come Crabbe and Lockhart--at the centre of the table--together
-with Wordsworth and Francis (afterwards Lord) Jeffrey.  Sir Adam
-Ferguson, a bosom cronie, cross-legged, his military boots recalling
-Peninsular days and the reading of the 'Lady of the Lake' to his
-comrades in the lines of Torres Vedras, immediately faces Scott.
-Behind him, Moore and Campbell sit opposite each other.  At the end of
-the table are the printers Constable and Ballantyne, and at their back,
-standing, the painters Allan and Wilkie.  Thomas Thomson, Deputy Clerk
-Register, is on the extreme left, and Sir Humphry Davy is examining a
-sword-hilt.  A second and smaller copy of Faed's picture (in the
-Woodlands Park collection, Bradford) substitutes Lord Byron and
-Washington Irving for Constable and Ballantyne.  Allan, Davy, and
-Thomson are also omitted.  The artist might well have introduced
-Scott's lady literary friends, Joanna Baillie and Maria Edgeworth, and
-it is a pity that Laidlaw has been left out.
-
-
-[1] In the possession of Captain Dennistoun of Golfhill.  The picture
-has been frequently on exhibition, and frequently engraved.
-
-
-Whilst, however, Abbotsford was a kind of ever open door to an
-unparalleled variety of guests, there was another and a much larger
-company constantly invading its precincts--the great army of the
-uninvited.  Such interruptions were a constant source of worry to
-Scott.  Some came furnished with letters of introduction from friends
-for whose sake Scott received them cordially, and treated them kindly.
-Others had no introduction at all, but, pencil and note-book in hand,
-took the most impertinent liberties with the place and its occupants.
-On returning to Abbotsford upon one occasion, Lockhart recalls how
-Scott and he found Mrs. Scott and her daughters doing penance under the
-merciless curiosity of a couple of tourists, who had been with her for
-some hours.  It turned out after all that there were no letters of
-introduction to be produced, as she had supposed, and Scott, signifying
-that his hour for dinner approached, added that, as he gathered they
-meant to walk to Melrose, he could not trespass further on their time.
-The two lion-hunters seemed quite unprepared for this abrupt escape.
-But there was about Scott, in perfection, when he chose to exert it,
-the power of civil repulsion.  He bowed the overwhelmed originals to
-the door, and on re-entering the parlour, found Mrs. Scott complaining
-very indignantly that they had gone so far as to pull out their
-note-book and beg an exact account, not only of his age, but of her
-own.  Scott, already half relenting, laughed heartily at this misery,
-afterwards saying, 'Hang the Yahoos, Charlotte, but we should have bid
-them stay dinner.'  'Devil a bit,' quoth Captain Ferguson, who had come
-over from Huntlyburn, 'they were quite in a mistake, I could see.  The
-one asked Madame whether she deigned to call her new house Tully Veolan
-or Tillietudlem, and the other, when Maida happened to lay his head
-against the window, exclaimed, "_Pro-di-gi-ous!_"'  'Well, well,
-Skipper,' was the reply, 'for a' that, the loons would hae been nane
-the waur o' their kail.'
-
-[Illustration: THE GARDEN, ABBOTSFORD.  The Courtyard was (in Mr. Hope
-Scott's time) planted as a flower garden, with clipped yews at the
-corners of the ornamental grass-plots, and beds all ablaze with summer
-Bowers.]
-
-Much has been written of Scott and his dogs--not the least important
-part of the establishment.  All true poets, from Homer downwards, have
-loved dogs.  Scott was seldom without a 'tail' at his heels.  His
-special favourites, Camp and Maida (the Bevis of 'Woodstock'), are as
-well-known as himself.  Both were frequently painted by Raeburn and
-others.  When Camp died at Castle Street, Scott excused himself from a
-dinner-party on account of 'the death of a dear old friend'--a fine
-compliment to the canine tribe--a finer index to the heart of the man.
-Scott looked upon his dogs as companions, 'not as the brute, but the
-mute creation.'  He loved them for their marvellously human traits, and
-we know how they reciprocated his affection.  He was always caring for
-them.  'Be very careful of the dogs,' was his last request to Laidlaw
-on the eve of setting out for Italy.  And when, close on a year
-afterwards, he returned so deadly stricken, it was his dogs fondling
-about him which for the most part resuscitated the sense of 'home,
-sweet home.'
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER IV
-
-THE WIZARD'S FAREWELL TO ABBOTSFORD
-
-On March 5, 1817, at Castle Street, in the midst of a merry
-dinner-party, Scott was seized with a sudden illness--the first since
-his childhood.  The illness lasted a week, and was more serious than
-had been anticipated.  It was, indeed, the first of a series of such
-paroxysms, which for years visited him periodically, and from which he
-never absolutely recovered.
-
-Lockhart parted on one occasion with 'dark prognostications' that it
-was for the last time.  Scott, too, despaired of himself.  Calling his
-children about his bed, he said: 'For myself, my dears, I am
-unconscious of ever having done any man an injury, or omitted any fair
-opportunity of doing any man a benefit.  I well know that no human life
-can appear otherwise than weak and filthy in the eyes of God; but I
-rely on the merits and intercession of our Redeemer.'  'God bless you!'
-he again said to each of them, laying his hand on their heads.  'Live
-so that you may all hope to meet each other in a better place
-hereafter.'  Presently he fell into a profound slumber, and on awaking,
-the crisis was seen to be over.  A gradual re-establishment of health
-followed.  Of the 'Bride of Lammermoor,' and 'Ivanhoe,' written under
-the most adverse circumstances, whilst he still suffered acutely, one
-is surprised to find both romances in the very front rank of his
-creations.  He was under opiates, more or less, when the 'Bride' was on
-the stocks, dictating nearly the whole of it to Laidlaw and John
-Ballantyne.  It is a most curious fact psychologically, for of its
-characters, scenes, humour, and all that connected him with the
-authorship of the story, he recollected nothing.  A more extraordinary
-incident literature has not known.[1]  But work which cut him short in
-the end was the saving of his life in this instance.  The mind was a
-constant conquest over the weaker physical framework.  'It is my
-conviction,' he declared to Gillies, 'that by a little more hearty
-application you might forget, and lose altogether, the irritable
-sensations of an invalid, and I don't, in this instance, preach what I
-have not endeavoured to practise.  Be assured that if pain could have
-prevented my application to literary labour, not a page of "Ivanhoe"
-would have been written; for, from beginning to end of that production,
-which has been a good deal praised, I was never free from suffering.
-It might have borne a motto somewhat analogous to the inscription which
-Frederick the Great's predecessor used to affix to his attempts at
-portrait-painting when he had the gout: "Fredericus I., _in tormentis
-pinxit_."  Now, if I had given way to mere feelings and ceased to work,
-it is a question whether the disorder might not have taken deeper root,
-and become incurable.  The best way is, if possible, to triumph over
-disease by setting it at defiance, somewhat on the same principle as
-one avoids being stung by boldly grasping a nettle.'
-
-
-[1] Dickens had a somewhat similar experience, though not, of course,
-to the like extent.
-
-
-[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE HALL, ABBOTSFORD.  A spacious apartment, 40
-feet by 20 feet, panelled to the height of 7 feet with dark oak from
-Dunfermline Abbey.]
-
-By 1820 he was enjoying tolerably good health, with no cramp
-recurrences for a time.  But in 1823, when busy with 'Peveril,' an
-arresting hand laid itself upon Scott in the shape of a slight stroke
-of apoplexy.  As a matter of fact, and as Lockhart suspected, this was
-only one of several such shocks which he had been carefully concealing.
-'"Peveril" will, I fear, smell of the apoplexy,' he afterwards
-admitted.  Hence, no doubt, 'Peveril's' dulness.  He rallied,
-notwithstanding, and up to Christmas, 1825, his health was excellent.
-But from 1826--the year of his crowning sorrows--the record of Scott's
-life reads like a long martyrdom.  Rheumatism, hallucinations, strange
-memory lapses, began to steal from Scott all the little joy that was
-left.  On February 5, 1830, the blow fell which, like Damocles' sword,
-had been hanging over him for years.  It fell with unmistakable
-meaning.  It was his first real paralytic seizure--long dreaded, long
-expected.  On his return from the Parliament House, in his usual
-health, he found an old friend waiting to consult him about a memoir of
-her father which he had promised to revise for the press.  Whilst
-examining the MS. the stroke came, a slight contortion passing over his
-features.  In a minute or two he rose, staggered to the drawing-room,
-where were Miss Anne Scott and Miss Lockhart, but fell to the floor
-speechless and insensible.  A surgeon quickly at hand cupped him, after
-the old-fashioned treatment for such complaints.  By night, speech had
-returned, and in a day or two he had resumed his Court duties.  But he
-was never the same again.  People in general did not remark any
-difference.  Doctors and patient, however, knew well enough that it was
-the beginning of the end.  Both his parents had succumbed to paralysis,
-and 'considering the terrible violence and agitation and exertion,'
-says Lockhart, 'to which he had been subjected during the four
-preceding years, the only wonder is that this blow was deferred so
-long; there can be none that it was soon followed by others.'
-
-Still he plodded on.  Even with half a brain he should not 'lag
-superfluous on the stage.'  And heedless of innumerable warnings, he
-was at his desk day after day, writing and dictating by turns.  He now
-resigned his Clerkship, on an £800 a year allowance, surrendered his
-Edinburgh house, and settled permanently at Abbotsford, lonely and
-desolate, an old man before his time, but indomitable to the core.
-There he commenced 'Count Robert of Paris,' the penultimate of his
-published tales.  But the mighty machinery of his mind moved not as of
-yore.  Like Samson, his strength had departed.  He was now as other
-men.  By November he suffered from a second stroke, and wrote in his
-Diary for January: 'Very indifferent, with more awkward feelings than I
-can well bear up against.  My voice sunk, and my head strangely
-confused.'  But a worse shock was coming.  Cadell pronounced the
-'Count' a complete failure.  Yet he struggled to recast it.  To crown
-all, he went to the 'hustings'--a hardened anti-Reform Billite.  At
-Jedburgh, as Lockhart tells, the crowd saluted him with blasphemous
-shouts of 'Burke Sir Walter!'[2]--the unkindest cut of all, which
-haunted him to the end.  By July he had begun 'Castle Dangerous,' and
-in the middle of the month, accompanied by Lockhart, he started for
-Lanarkshire to refresh his memory for the setting of his new story.
-They ascended the Tweed by Yair, Ashestiel, Elibank, Innerleithen,
-Peebles, Biggar, places all dear to his heart and celebrated in his
-writings.  Crowds turned out to welcome him.  Everywhere he was
-received with acclamation and the deepest respect.  At Douglas the
-travellers inspected the old Castle, the ruin of St. Bride's, with the
-monuments and tombs of the 'most heroic and powerful family in Scottish
-annals.'  At Milton-Lockhart, the seat of Lockhart's brother, Scott met
-his old friend Borthwickbrae.  Both were paralytics.  Each saw his own
-case mirrored in the other.  They had a joyous--too joyous a meeting,
-with startling results to the older invalid.  On returning to Cleghorn,
-another shock laid him low, and he was despaired of.  When the news
-reached Scott, he was bent on getting home at once.  'No, William,' he
-said to his host, urging him to remain, 'this is a sad warning; I must
-home to work while it is called to-day, for the night cometh when no
-man can work.  I put that text many years ago on my dial-stone, but it
-often preached in vain.'
-
-
-[2] The Burke and Hare murders were recent.
-
-
-Returned, he finished 'Count Robert' and 'Castle Dangerous.'  Both
-novels were really the fruit of a paralytic brain.  The 'Magnum
-Opus,'[3] too, proposed by Cadell (a huge success), engaged much of his
-attention.  But Sir Walter's work was done.  At length, doctors'
-treatment doing him little good, from his constant determination to be
-at his desk, it was decided, not without difficulty, that Scott should
-spend the winter of 1831 in Italy, where his son Charles was attached
-to the British Legation at Naples.  On September 22 all was in
-readiness.  A round of touching adieus, one or two gatherings of old
-friends, the final instructions to Laidlaw, and Scott quitted
-Abbotsford practically for ever.  He returned, to be sure, but more a
-dead man than a living one.  Of his journey to London (meeting many
-friends) there is no need to write, nor of the Italian tour--Malta,
-Naples, Rome, Florence, Venice--for which, no matter the brilliance of
-their associations, he exhibited but a mere passive interest.  His
-heart was in the homeland.
-
-
-[3] A reissue of the Poetry, with biographical prefaces, and a uniform
-reprint of the Novels, each introduced by an account of the hints on
-which it had been founded, and illustrated throughout by historical and
-antiquarian annotations.
-
-
-By June 13, London was again reached, and in the St. James's Hotel,
-Jermyn Street (now demolished), he lay for three weeks in a state of
-supreme stupor.  Allan Cunningham tells of the extraordinary interest
-and sympathy which Scott's illness evoked.  Walking home late one
-night, he found a number of working men standing at the corner of
-Jermyn Street, one of whom asked him, as if there had been only one
-deathbed in London: 'Do you know, sir, if this is the street where he
-is lying?'  'Abbotsford!' was his cry in the more lucid intervals that
-came to him.  On July 7 he was carried on board the _James Watt_
-steamer, accompanied by Lockhart, Cadell, a medical man--Dr. Thomas
-Watson--and his two daughters.  The Forth was reached on the 9th, and
-the next two days--the last in his 'own romantic town'--were passed, as
-all the voyage had been, in a condition of absolute unconsciousness.
-On the 11th, at a very early hour of the morning, Scott was lifted into
-his carriage for the final journey homewards.  During the first part of
-the drive he remained torpid, until the veil lifted somewhat at Gala
-Water.  Strange that, after oblivion so profound and prolonged, he
-should open his eyes and regain a measure of consciousness just here,
-amid landscapes the most familiar to him in the world.  Some good angel
-must have touched him then.  A mere coincidence!  Perhaps!  But there
-are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in our
-philosophy.  'Gala Water, surely--Buckholm--Torwoodlee,' he murmured.
-When he saw the Eildons--
-
-  'Three crests against the saffron sky,
-    Beyond the purple plain,
-  The kind remembered melody
-    Of Tweed once more again'--
-
-he became greatly excited, and in crossing Melrose Bridge, his 'nearest
-Rialto,' as he called it, he could hardly be kept in the carriage.
-Abbotsford, a mile ahead, was soon reached.  Laidlaw--a big lump in his
-throat, we may be sure--was waiting at the door, and assisted to carry
-his dying master and friend to the dining-room, where his bed had been
-prepared.  He sat bewildered for a moment or two, then, resting his
-eyes on Laidlaw, as if trying to recollect, said immediately, 'Ha,
-Willie Laidlaw!  O man, how often have I thought of _you_!'  By this
-time his dogs were around his chair, fawning on him, and licking his
-hands.  Then, indeed, he knew where he was.  Between sobs and tears he
-tried to speak to them, and to stroke them as of yore.  But the body,
-no less than the brain, was exhausted, and gentle sleep closed his
-eyelids, like a tired child, once more in his own Abbotsford.  He
-lingered for some weeks, alternating between cloud and sunshine--mostly
-cloud.  One day the longing for his desk seized him, and he was wheeled
-studywards, but the palsied fingers refused their office, and he sank
-back, assured at last that the sceptre had departed.  Lockhart and
-Laidlaw were now his constant attendants.  Both read to him from the
-New Testament.  'There is but one Book,' Scott said, and it 'comforted'
-him to listen to its soothing and hope-inspiring utterances.  Then the
-cloud became denser.  At last delirium and delusion prostrated him, and
-he grew daily feebler.  Now he thought himself administering justice as
-the Selkirkshire 'Shirra'; anon he was giving Tom Purdie orders anent
-trees.  Sometimes, his fancy was in Jedburgh, and the words, 'Burke Sir
-Walter,' escaped him in a dolorous tone.  Then he would repeat snatches
-from Isaiah, or the Book of Job, or some grand rugged verse torn off
-from the Scottish Psalms, or a strain sublimer still from the Romish
-Litany:
-
-  'Dies irae, dies ilia,
-  Solvet saeclum in favilla.'
-
-'As I was dressing on the morning of September 17,' says Lockhart,
-'Nicolson came into my room and told me that his master had awoke in a
-state of composure and consciousness, and wished to see me immediately.
-I found him entirely himself, though in the last extreme of feebleness.
-His eye was clear and calm--every trace of the wild fire of delirium
-extinguished.  "Lockhart," he said, "I may have but a minute to speak
-to you.  My dear, be a good man--be virtuous--be religious--be a good
-man.  Nothing else will give you any comfort when you come to lie
-here."  He paused, and I said: "Shall I send for Sophia and Anne?"
-"No," said he, "don't disturb them.  Poor souls!  I know they were up
-all night.  God bless you all."  With this he sunk into a very tranquil
-sleep, and, indeed, he scarcely afterwards gave any sign of
-consciousness, except for an instant on the arrival of his sons.  About
-half-past one p.m., on September 21, Sir Walter Scott breathed his
-last, in the presence of all his children.  It was a beautiful day--so
-warm that every window was wide open, and so perfectly still that the
-sound of all others most delicious to his ear, the gentle ripple of the
-Tweed over its pebbles, was distinctly audible as we knelt around the
-bed, and his eldest son kissed and closed his eyes.'
-
-[Illustration: DRYBURGH ABBEY.  Which, if it cannot boast the
-architectural glories of Melrose, far surpasses it for queenly
-situation.]
-
-He died a month after completing his sixty-first year.  On December 7,
-1825, almost seven years earlier, we find him taking a survey of his
-own health in relation to the ages reached by his parents and other
-members of the family, and then setting down in his Diary the result of
-his calculations, 'Square the odds, and good-night, Sir Walter, about
-sixty.  I care not, if I leave my name unstained and my family property
-settled.  _Sat est vixisse_.'  His prophecy was fulfilled.  He lived
-just a year--but a year of gradual death--beyond his anticipations.
-His wish, too, was fulfilled; for he died practically free of debt.
-The sale of his works, the insurance of his life, and a sum advanced by
-Cadell, completely cleared his engagements.  The copyrights purchased
-by Cadell were afterwards sold to Messrs. Adam and Charles Black, who
-therefore hold the exact text of the works.
-
-On September 26--a Wednesday--Sir Walter was buried.  Services at
-Abbotsford, after the simple fashion of the Scottish Kirk, were
-conducted by the Revs. Principal Baird, of Edinburgh University, Dr.
-Dickson, of St. Cuthbert's, and the minister of Melrose.  The courtyard
-and all the precincts of Abbotsford were crowded with uncovered
-spectators as the procession (over a mile in length) was arranged.  And
-as it advanced through Darnick and Melrose, and the villages on the
-route, the whole population appeared at their doors in like manner,
-almost all in black.  From Darnick Tower a broad crape banner waved in
-the wind, and the Abbey bell at Melrose rang a muffled peel.  Thence
-there is a somewhat steep ascent to Gladswood and Bemersyde.  On the
-crest of the road overlooking the 'beautiful bend' the hearse came to a
-curious halt, at the very spot where Scott was accustomed to rein up
-his horses.  It was no 'accident,' as Lockhart imagines.  For one of
-the horses was Sir Walter's own, and must have borne him many a time
-hither.  Peter Mathieson, Laidlaw, and others of Scott's servants
-carried the plain black coffin to the grave within St. Mary's aisle, at
-Dryburgh, where it was lowered by his two sons, his son-in-law, and six
-of his cousins.  And thus the remains of Sir Walter Scott--our Scottish
-Shakespeare--were laid by the side of his wife in the sepulchre of his
-fathers.
-
-
-
-
-CHAPTER V
-
-THE LATER ABBOTSFORD
-
-Sir Walter's Abbotsford, as we saw, was completed in 1824.  For the
-next thirty years there was practically no alteration on the place.  At
-Scott's death the second Sir Walter came into possession.  He does not
-appear to have lived at Abbotsford after 1832, and indeed for many
-years previous his time had been spent almost entirely with his
-regiment, the 15th Hussars, of which, at his father's death, he was
-Major.  He died childless, as his brother did also, and Abbotsford
-passed to Walter Scott Lockhart, son of Scott's elder daughter, who had
-married J. G. Lockhart.  On his death, in 1853, his only sister
-Charlotte, married to James Robert Hope, Q.C., came into possession,
-and she and her husband assumed the name of Scott.
-
-Abbotsford had been sadly neglected since Scott's death in 1832, and
-everything needed restoration.  But Mr. Hope Scott did wonders.
-Between the years 1855 and 1857 he built a new west wing to the house,
-consisting of a Chapel, hall, drawing-room, boudoir, and a suite of
-bedrooms.  The old kitchen was turned into a linen-room, and a long
-range of new kitchen offices facing the Tweed was erected, which
-materially raised the elevation of Scott's edifice, and improved the
-appearance of the whole pile as seen from the river.  An ingenious
-tourist access was also arranged, with other internal alterations.
-Outside, the grounds and gardens were completely overhauled, the
-overgrown plantations thinned, and the old favourite walks cleaned and
-kept as Scott himself would have wished.  In the lifetime of the Great
-Magician the ground on which he fixed his abode was nearly on a level
-with the highway running along the south front, and wayfarers could
-survey the whole domain by looking over the hedge.  A high embankment
-was now thrown up on the road-front of Abbotsford, the road itself
-shifted several yards back, the avenue lengthened, a lodge built, and
-the new mound covered with a choice variety of timber, which has now
-grown into one of the most pleasing features of the Abbotsford
-approach.  The courtyard was at the same time planted as a
-flower-garden, with clipped yews at the corners of the ornamental
-grass-plots, and beds all ablaze with summer flowers.  The terraces, on
-the north, so rich and velvety, date from this period.
-
-Most visitors to Abbotsford have the impression that Sir Walter was
-responsible for every part of the present edifice, whereas it is at
-least a third larger from that of Scott's day.
-
-On the death of Mr. Hope Scott (his wife having pre-deceased him),
-their only living child, the sole surviving descendant of Sir Walter,
-Mary Monica Hope Scott, came into possession.  In 1874 she married the
-Hon. Joseph Constable-Maxwell, third son of the eleventh Baron Herries
-of Terregles.  Thus direct descendants of the maker of Abbotsford still
-reign there in the person of his great-granddaughter and her children.
-
-There are two methods of reaching Abbotsford--by rail to Galashiels,
-thence to Abbotsford Ferry Station on the Selkirk line, alighting at
-which and crossing the Tweed, a delightful tree-shaded walk of about a
-mile brings us to the house.  But the more popular method is to make
-the journey from Melrose, three miles distant.  The way lies between
-delicious green fields and bits of woodland--a pleasant country road,
-exposed somewhat, despite smiling hedgerows on either side.  The road
-teems with reminiscences of the Romancist.  Out from the grey town,
-with its orchards and picturesque gardens, the Waverley Hydropathic is
-passed on the right.  In the grounds a handsome seated statue of Scott
-may be noticed.  Further on, to the left, tree-ensconced, lie
-Chiefswood and Huntlyburn on the Abbotsford estate.  Then comes
-Darnick, with its fine peel, now open to the public, and well worth a
-visit.  At the fork of the roads (that to the right leading by Melrose
-Bridge to Gattonside and Galashiels) we turn leftwards, and are soon at
-the visitors' entrance (a modest wicket-gate) to the great Scottish
-Mecca.  But nothing is to be seen yet.  Mr. Hope Scott's plantations
-and 'ingenious tourist arrangement' screen the pile with wonderful
-completeness.  And it is only when within a few paces of the building,
-at a turn in the lane leading from the highway, that all at once one
-emerges upon it.  The public waiting-room is in the basement, whence
-parties of ten or twelve are conducted through the house.
-
-In point of picturesqueness, Abbotsford is, of course, best seen from
-the Tweed--the north bank--or the hillside.  But we are then looking,
-let us remember, at the _back_ of the edifice.  Nearly all the
-photographs present this view for the sake of the river.  At first not
-unfrequently there is a sense of disappointment, especially if one's
-ideas have been founded on Turner's somewhat fanciful sketches.
-
-As this is not a guide-book, we shall not give here a minute catalogue
-of the treasures to be seen at Abbotsford, referring the reader instead
-to Mrs. Maxwell-Scott's excellent catalogue of the 'Armour and
-Antiquities.'  But we are sure that none who visit the place will come
-away unsatisfied, or will fail to be moved by the personal relics of
-the Great Wizard, such as his chair, his clothes and writing-desk,
-which bring before us the man himself, for whose memory Abbotsford is
-but a shrine.
-
-[Illustration: Plan of Abbotsford and grounds]
-
-
-
-
-BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD
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