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If you + don't derive profits, no royalty is due. Royalties are + payable to "Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation" + the 60 days following each date you prepare (or were + legally required to prepare) your annual (or equivalent + periodic) tax return. Please contact us beforehand to + let us know your plans and to work out the details. + +WHAT IF YOU *WANT* TO SEND MONEY EVEN IF YOU DON'T HAVE TO? +Project Gutenberg is dedicated to increasing the number of +public domain and licensed works that can be freely distributed +in machine readable form. + +The Project gratefully accepts contributions of money, time, +public domain materials, or royalty free copyright licenses. +Money should be paid to the: +"Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +If you are interested in contributing scanning equipment or +software or other items, please contact Michael Hart at: +hart@pobox.com + +[Portions of this header are copyright (C) 2001 by Michael S. Hart +and may be reprinted only when these Etexts are free of all fees.] +[Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be used in any sales +of Project Gutenberg Etexts or other materials be they hardware or +software or any other related product without express permission.] + +*END THE SMALL PRINT! FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.10/04/01*END* +</pre> +<a name="start"></a> + + + + +<h1>The South Pole</h1> + +<h2>An Account of the Norwegian +<br>Antarctic Expedition in the "Fram," +<br>1910 -- 1912 +</h2> + + + +<h2>By Roald Amundsen</h2> + +<h3>Translated from the Norwegian by +A. G. Chater</h3> + + +<h3>To + +<br>My Comrades, +<br>The Brave Little Band That Promised +<br>In Funchal Roads +<br>To Stand by Me in the Struggle for the +<br> +<br>South Pole, +<br> +<br>I Dedicate this Book. +<br> +<br>Roald Amundsen. +<br> +<br>Uranienborg, +<br> +<br>August 15, 1912. +</h3> + + +<h2>Chapter</h2> + +<ul> +<li> <a href="#first">The First Account</a> +<li> <a href="#intro">Introduction, by Fridtjof Nansen</a> +<li>I. <a href="#i">The History of the South Pole</a> +<li>II. <a href="#ii">Plan and Preparations</a> +<li>III. <a href="#iii">On the Way to the South</a> +<li>IV. <a href="#iv">From Madeira to the Barrier</a> +<li>V. <a href="#v">On the Barrier</a> +<li>VI. <a href="#vi">Depot Journeys</a> +<li>VII. <a href="#vii">Preparing for Winter</a> +<li>VIII. <a href="#viii">A Day at Framheim</a> +<li>IX. <a href="#ix">The End of the Winter</a> +<li>X. <a href="#x">The Start for the Pole</a> +<li>XI. <a href="#xii">Through the Mountains</a> +<li>XII. <a href="#xii">At the Pole</a> +<li>XIII. <a href="#xiii">The Return to Framheim</a> +<li>XIV. <a href="#xiv">Northward</a> +<li>XV. <a href="#xv">The Eastern Sledge Journey</a> + By Lieutenant K. Prestrud +<li>XVI. <a href="#xvi">The Voyage of the "Fram"</a> + By First-Lieutenant Thorvald Nilsen + + <ol> + <li> I. From Norway to the Barrier + <li> II. Off the Barrier + <li> III. From the Bay of Whales to Buenos Aires + <li> IV. The Oceanographical Cruise + <li> V. At Buenos Aires + <li> VI. From Buenos Aires to the Ross Barrier + <li> VII. From the Barrier to Buenos Aires, Via Hobart + </ol> +<li>Appendix I : <a href="#appi">The "Fram"</a> + By Commodore Christian Blom +<li>Appendix II. : <a href="#appii">Remarks on the Meteorological Observations at + Framheim</a> + By B. J. Birkeland +<li>Appendix III: <a href="#appiii">Geology</a> + By J. Schetelig +<li>Appendix IV.: <a href="#appiv">The Astronomical Observations at the Pole</a> + By A. Alexander, with Note by Professor H. Geelmuyden +<li>Appendix V.: <a href="#appv">Oceanography</a> + By Professors Bjorn Helland-Hansen and Fridtjof Nansen +</ul> + +<h2>List of Illustrations</h2> + +<p> +<br>Roald Amundsen +<br>Approximate Bird's-eye View, Drawn from the First Telegraphic Account +<br>Reproduced by permission of the Daily Chronicle +<br>The Opening of Roald Amundsen's Manuscript +<br>Helmer Hanssen, Ice Pilot, a Member of the Polar Party +<br>The "Fram's" Pigsty +<br>The Pig's Toilet +<br>Hoisting the Flag +<br>A Patient +<br>Some Members of the Expedition +<br>Sverre Hassel +<br>Oscar Wisting +<br>In the North-east Trades +<br>In the Rigging +<br>Taking an Observation +<br>Ronne Felt Safer when the Dogs were Muzzled +<br>Starboard Watch on the Bridge +<br>Olav Bjaaland, a Member of the Polar Party 136 +<br>In the Absence of Lady Partners, Ronne Takes a Turn with the Dogs +<br>An Albatross +<br>In Warmer Regions +<br>A Fresh Breeze in the West Wind Belt +<br>The Propeller Lifted in the Westerlies +<br>The "Fram's" Saloon Decorated for Christmas Eve +<br>Ronne at a Sailor's Job +<br>The "Fram" In Drift-ice +<br>Drift-ice in Ross Sea +<br>A Clever Method of Landing +<br>The "Fram" under Sail +<br>Cape Man's Head on the Barrier +<br>Seal-hunting +<br>The "Fram" +<br>The Crew of the "Fram" in the Bay of Whales +<br>The "Fram" in the Bay of Whales +<br>The First Dog-camp +<br>Digging the Foundations of Framheim +<br>Building the Hut +<br>Unloading the Six Sledge-drivers +<br>Polar Transport +<br>Penguins +<br>The Provision Store +<br>Framheim, January, 1911 +<br>Suggen, Arne, and the Colonel +<br>Mikkel, Ravn, and Mas-mas +<br>Framheim, February, 1911 +<br>Prestrud in Winter Dress +<br>Bjaaland in Winter Dress +<br>The "Fram" Veteran, Lindstrom: the Only Man Who has Sailed round the + Continent of America +<br>The Start of the First Depot Journey +<br>A Page from the Sledge Diary, Giving Details of Depots I. and II. +<br>Framheim, March, 1911 +<br>Killing Seals for the Depot +<br>The Meat Tent +<br>The Meteorological Screen +<br>Inside a Dog-tent +<br>A Winter Evening at Framheim +<br>The Carpenters' Shop +<br>Entrance to the Hut +<br>Entrance to the Western Workshop +<br>Prestrud in His Observatory +<br>Wisting at the Sewing-machine +<br>Packing Sledges in the "Crystal Palace" +<br>Lindstrom with the Buckwheat Cakes +<br>On His "Native Heath": A Dog on the Barrier Ice +<br>Dogs Exercising +<br>Helmer Hanssen on a Seal-hunt +<br>Hanssen and Wisting Lashing the New Sledges +<br>Passage in the Ice +<br>Johansen Packing Provisions in the "Crystal Palace" +<br>A Corner of the Kitchen +<br>Stubberud Taking it Easy +<br>Johansen Packing Biscuits in the "Crystal Palace" +<br>Hassel and the Vapour-bath +<br>Midwinter Day, June, 1911 +<br>Our Ski-binding in its Final Form +<br>At Work on Personal Outfit +<br>Trying on Patent Goggles +<br>Hassel in the Oil-store +<br>Deep in Thought +<br>Funcho +<br>The Loaded Sledges in the Clothing Store +<br>Sledges Ready for Use Being Hauled Out of the Store-room +<br>At the Depot in Lat. 80deg. S. +<br>Some of the Land Party in Winter Costume +<br>General Map of the South Polar Region +<br>Roald Amundsen in Polar Kit +<br>A Snow Beacon on the Barrier Surface +<br>Crevassed Surface on the Barrier +<br>Depot in 83 Degrees S. +<br>Depot in 82 Degrees S. +<br>At the Depot in Lat. 84 Degrees S. +<br>The Depot and Mountains in Lat. 85 Degrees S. +<br>Ascending Mount Betty +<br>Mount Fridtjof Nansen, 15,000 Feet Above the Sea +<br>At the End of a Day's March: the Pole Expedition +<br>The Tent After a Blizzard +<br>A Large Filled Crevasse on the Devil's Glacier +<br>Hell's Gate on the Devil's Glacier +<br>Mount Thorvald Nilsen +<br>The Sledges Packed for the Final March +<br>Taking an Observation at the Pole +<br>At the South Pole: Oscar Wisting and His Team Arrive at the Goal +<br>A Page from the Observation Book, December 17, 1911 +<br>At the South Pole, December 16 and 17, 1911 +<br>Mount Don Pedro Christophersen +<br>Framheim on the Return of the Polar Party +<br>Lindstrom in the Kitchen +<br>Farewell to the Barrier +<br>Bjaaland as Tinker +<br>Dogs Landed at Hobart for Dr. Mawson's Expedition +<br>Members of the Japanese Antarctic Expedition +<br>Lieutenant Prestrud +<br>An Original Inhabitant of the Antarctic +<br>Stubberud Reviews the Situation +<br>Camp on the Barrier: Eastern Expedition +<br>A Broken-off Cape +<br>Off to the East +<br>The Junction of the Great Barrier and King Edward Land +<br>Improvised Sounding Tackle +<br>The Leader of the Eastern Expedition, Prestrud, on Scott's Nunatak +<br>First in King Edward Land +<br>In King Edward Land: After a Three Days' Storm +<br>On Scott's Nunatak +<br>Scott's Nunatak +<br>The "Fram" at the Ice-edge, January, 1912 +<br>The "Kainan Maru" +<br>Seals on Sea-ice near the Barrier +<br>Seals: Mother and Calf +<br>A Group of Adelie Penguins +<br>A Quiet Pipe +<br>First-lieutenant Thorvald Nilsen, Norwegian Navy +<br>The Second in Command Takes a Nap +<br>The "Fram" Sighted +<br>On the Ice-edge, January, 1911 +<br>Our Last Moorings on the Ice-foot +<br>A Hunting Expedition at the Foot of the Barrier +<br>Beck Steers the "Fram" through Unknown Waters +<br>Our Cook, Cheerful and Contented as Usual +<br>Sectional Diagrams of the "Fram" +</p> + +<br><h2>List of Maps and Charts</h2> + +<p> +<br>Fig. +<br> +<br>Chart of the Immediate Surroundings of the South Pole to face +<br>Chart of the Ross Sea +<br>Chart of the Bay of Whales +<br>1. Hypothetical Representation of the Surface Currents in the Northern + Atlantic in April +<br>2. The "Fram's" Route from June 20 To July 7, 1910 +<br>3. Temperature and Salinity in the "Fram's" Southern Section, June, 1910 +<br>4. Temperature and Salinity in the "Fram's" Northern Section, July, 1910 +<br>5. The "Fram's" Stations in the South Atlantic (June -- August, 1911) +<br>6. Currents in the South Atlantic (June -- August, 1911) +<br>7. Salinities and Temperatures at the Surface in the + South Atlantic (June -- August, 1911) +<br>8. Temperatures (Centigrade) at a Depth of 400 Metres (218 Fathoms) +<br>9. Temperatures at Station 32 (In the Benguela Current, July 22, 1911), + and at Station 60 (In the Brazil Current, August 19, 1911) +<br>10. Salinities at Station 32 (In the Benguela Current, July 22, 1911), + and at Station 60 (In the Brazil Current, August 19, 1911) +<br>11. Salinities and Temperatures in the Southern Section (June -- + July, 1911) +<br>12. Salinities and Temperatures in the Northern Section (July -- + August, 1911) +<br>13. Temperatures at one of the "Fram's" and one of the "Challenger's" + Stations, to the South of the South Equatorial Current +<br>14. Temperatures at one of the "Fram's" and one of the "Valdivia's" + Stations, in the Benguela Current +<br>15. Temperatures at the "Planet's" Station 25, And the "Fram's" + Station 39 -- Both in the Neighbourhood of St. Helena +<br>16. Salinities at the "Planet's" Station 25 (March 19, 1906), and the + "Fram's" Station 39 (July 29, 1911) +<br>Chart of the Antarctic Region +</p> + + + +<h2><a name="first"></a>The First Account</h2> + +<p>On February 10, 1911, we started for the South to establish depots, +and continued our journey until April 11. We formed three depots and +stored in them 3 tons of provisions, including 22 hundredweight of +seal meat. As there were no landmarks, we had to indicate the position +of our depots by flags, which were posted at a distance of about four +miles to the east and west. The first barrier afforded the best going, +and was specially adapted for dog-sledging. Thus, on February 15 we +did sixty-two miles with sledges. Each sledge weighed 660 pounds, +and we had six dogs for each. The upper barrier ("barrier surface") +was smooth and even. There were a few crevasses here and there, but +we only found them dangerous at one or two points. The barrier went +in long, regular undulations. The weather was very favourable, with +calms or light winds. The lowest temperature at this station was -49º +F., which was taken on March 4.</p> + +<p>When we returned to winter quarters on February 5 from a first trip, +we found that the Fram had already left us. With joy and pride we heard +from those who had stayed behind that our gallant captain had succeeded +in sailing her farther south than any former ship. So the good old +Fram has shown the flag of Norway both farthest north and farthest +south. The most southerly latitude reached by the Fram was 78º 41'.</p> + +<p>Before the winter set in we had 60 tons of seal meat in our winter +quarters; this was enough for ourselves and our 110 dogs. We had built +eight kennels and a number of connecting tents and snow huts. When we +had provided for the dogs, we thought of ourselves. Our little hut +was almost entirely covered with snow. Not till the middle of April +did we decide to adopt artificial light in the hut. This we did with +the help of a Lux lamp of 200 candle-power, which gave an excellent +light and kept the indoor temperature at about 68º F. throughout the +winter. The ventilation was very satisfactory, and we got sufficient +fresh air. The hut was directly connected with the house in which we +had our workshop, larder, storeroom, and cellar, besides a single +bathroom and observatory. Thus we had everything within doors and +easily got at, in case the weather should be so cold and stormy that +we could not venture out.</p> + +<p>The sun left us on April 22, and we did not see it again for four +months. We spent the winter in altering our whole equipment, which our +depot journeys had shown to be too heavy and clumsy for the smooth +barrier surface. At the same time we carried out all the scientific +work for which there was opportunity. We made a number of surprising +meteorological observations. There was very little snow, in spite +of there being open water in the neighbourhood. We had expected to +observe higher temperatures in the course of the winter, but the +thermometer remained very low. During five months temperatures were +observed varying between -58º and -74º F. We had the lowest (-74º +F.) on August 13; the weather was calm. On August 1 we had -72º +F. with a wind of thirteen miles an hour. The mean temperature for +the year was -15º F. We expected blizzard after blizzard, but had +only two moderate storms. We made many excellent observations of the +aurora australis in all parts of the heavens. Our bill of health was +the best possible throughout the whole winter. When the sun returned +on August 24 it shone upon men who were healthy in mind and body, +and ready to begin the task that lay before them.</p> + +<p>We had brought the sledges the day before to the starting-point of the +southern journey. At the beginning of September the temperature rose, +and it was decided to commence the journey. On September 8 a party of +eight men set out, with seven sledges and ninety dogs, provisioned for +ninety days. The surface was excellent, and the temperature not so bad +as it might have been. But on the following day we saw that we had +started too early. The temperature then fell, and remained for some +days between -58º and -75º F. Personally we did not suffer at all, as +we had good fur clothing, but with the dogs it was another matter. They +grew lanker and lanker every day, and we soon saw that they would not +be able to stand it in the long run. At our depot in lat. 80º we agreed +to turn back and await the arrival of spring. After having stored our +provisions, we returned to the hut. Excepting the loss of a few dogs +and one or two frostbitten heels, all was well. It was not till the +middle of October that the spring began in earnest. Seals and birds +were sighted. The temperature remained steady, between -5º and -22º F.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile we had abandoned the original plan, by which all were to +go to the south. Five men were to do this, while three others made +a trip to the east, to visit King Edward VII. Land. This trip did +not form part of our programme, but as the English did not reach +this land last summer, as had been their intention, we agreed that +it would be best to undertake this journey in addition.</p> + +<p>On October 20 the southern party left. It consisted of five men +with four sledges and fifty-two dogs, and had provisions for four +months. Everything was in excellent order, and we had made up our minds +to take it easy during the first part of the journey, so that we and +the dogs might not be too fatigued, and we therefore decided to make +a little halt on the 22nd at the depot that lay in lat. 80º. However, +we missed the mark owing to thick fog, but after two or three miles' +march we found the place again.</p> + +<p>When we had rested here and given the dogs as much seal meat as +they were able to eat, we started again on the 26th. The temperature +remained steady, between -5º and -22º F.</p> + +<p>At first we had made up our minds not to drive more than twelve to +eighteen miles a day; but this proved to be too little, thanks to +our strong and willing animals. At lat. 80º we began to erect snow +beacons, about the height of a man, to show us the way home.</p> + +<p>On the 31st we reached the depot in lat. 81º. We halted for a day +and fed the dogs on pemmican. On November 5 we reached the depot +in 82º, where for the last time the dogs got as much to eat as they +could manage.</p> + +<p>On the 8th we started southward again, and now made a daily march of +about thirty miles. In order to relieve the heavily laden sledges, we +formed a depot at every parallel we reached. The journey from lat. 82º +to 83º was a pure pleasure trip, on account of the surface and the +temperature, which were as favourable as one could wish. Everything +went swimmingly until the 9th, when we sighted South Victoria Land +and the continuation of the mountain chain, which Shackleton gives +on his map, running southeast from Beardmore Glacier. On the same +day we reached lat. 83º, and established here Depot No. 4.</p> + +<p>On the 11th we made the interesting discovery that the Ross Barrier +ended in an elevation on the south-east, formed between a chain of +mountains running south-eastward from South Victoria Land and another +chain on the opposite side, which runs south-westward in continuation +of King Edward VII. Land.</p> + +<p>On the 13th we reached lat. 84º, where we established a depot. On the +16th we got to 85º, where again we formed a depot. From our winter +quarters at Framheim we had marched due south the whole time.</p> + +<p>On November 17, in lat. 85º, we came to a spot where the land barrier +intersected our route, though for the time being this did not cause +us any difficulty. The barrier here rises in the form of a wave to +a height of about 300 feet, and its limit is shown by a few large +fissures. Here we established our main depot. We took supplies for +sixty days on the sledges and left behind enough provisions for +thirty days.</p> + +<p>The land under which we now lay, and which we were to attack, looked +perfectly impossible, with peaks along the barrier which rose to +heights of from 2,000 to 10,000 feet. Farther south we saw more peaks, +of 15,000 feet or higher.</p> + +<p>Next day we began to climb. The first part of the work was easy, +as the ground rose gradually with smooth snow-slopes below the +mountain-side. Our dogs working well, it did not take us long to get +over these slopes.</p> + +<p>At the next point we met with some small, very steep glaciers, +and here we had to harness twenty dogs to each sledge and take the +four sledges in two journeys. Some places were so steep that it was +difficult to use our ski. Several times we were compelled by deep +crevasses to turn back.</p> + +<p>On the first day we climbed 2,000 feet. The next day we crossed +small glaciers, and camped at a height of 4,635 feet. On the third +day we were obliged to descend the great Axel Heiberg Glacier, which +separates the mountains of the coast from those farther south.</p> + +<p>On the following day the longest part of our climbing began. Many +detours had to be made to avoid broad fissures and open crevasses. Most +of them were filled up, as in all probability the glacier had long +ago ceased to move; but we had to be very careful, nevertheless, +as we could never know the depth of snow that covered them. Our camp +that night was in very picturesque surroundings, at a height of about +5,000 feet.</p> + +<p>The glacier was here imprisoned between two mountains of 15,000 feet, +which we named after Fridtjof Nansen and Don Pedro Christophersen.</p> + +<p>At the bottom of the glacier we saw Ole Engelstad's great snow-cone +rising in the air to 19,000 feet. The glacier was much broken up in +this narrow defile; enormous crevasses seemed as if they would stop +our going farther, but fortunately it was not so bad as it looked.</p> + +<p>Our dogs, which during the last few days had covered a distance of +nearly 440 miles, put in a very good piece of work that day, as they +did twenty-two miles on ground rising to 5,770 feet. It was an almost +incredible record. It only took us four days from the barrier to reach +the immense inland plateau. We camped at a height of 7,600 feet. Here +we had to kill twenty-four of our brave dogs, keeping eighteen -- +six for each of our three sledges. We halted here for four days on +account of bad weather. On November 25 we were tired of waiting, and +started again. On the 26th we were overtaken by a raging blizzard. In +the thick, driving snow we could see absolutely nothing; but we felt +that, contrary to what we had expected -- namely, a further ascent +-- we were going rapidly downhill. The hypsometer that day showed a +descent of 600 feet. We continued our march next day in a strong wind +and thick, driving snow. Our faces were badly frozen. There was no +danger, but we simply could see nothing. Next day, according to our +reckoning, we reached lat. 86º. The hypsometer showed a fall of 800 +feet. The following day passed in the same way. The weather cleared up +about noon, and there appeared to our astonished eyes a mighty mountain +range to the east of us, and not far away. But the vision only lasted +a moment, and then disappeared again in the driving snow. On the 29th +the weather became calmer and the sun shone -- a pleasant surprise. Our +course lay over a great glacier, which ran in a southerly direction. On +its eastern side was a chain of mountains running to the southeast. We +had no view of its western part, as this was lost in a thick fog. At +the foot of the Devil's Glacier we established a depot in lat. 86º +21', calculated for six days. The hypsometer showed 8,000 feet above +sea level. On November 30 we began to ascend the glacier. The lower +part was much broken up and dangerous, and the thin bridges of snow +over the crevasses often broke under us. From our camp that evening +we had a splendid view of the mountains to the east. Mount Helmer +Hansen was the most remarkable of them all; it was 12,000 feet high, +and covered by a glacier so rugged that in all probability it would +have been impossible to find foothold on it. Here were also Mounts +Oskar Wisting, Sverre Hassel, and Olav Bjaaland, grandly lighted up +by the rays of the sun. In the distance, and only visible from time +to time through the driving mists, we saw Mount Thorvald Nilsen, +with peaks rising to 15,000 feet. We could only see those parts of +them that lay nearest to us. It took us three days to get over the +Devil's Glacier, as the weather was unusually misty.</p> + +<p>On December 1 we left the glacier in high spirits. It was cut up by +innumerable crevasses and holes. We were now at a height of 9,370 +feet. In the mist and driving snow it looked as if we had a frozen +lake before us; but it proved to be a sloping plateau of ice, full +of small blocks of ice. Our walk across this frozen lake was not +pleasant. The ground under our feet was evidently hollow, and it +sounded as if we were walking on empty barrels. First a man fell +through, then a couple of dogs; but they got up again all right. We +could not, of course, use our ski on this smooth-polished ice, but we +got on fairly well with the sledges. We called this place the Devil's +Ballroom. This part of our march was the most unpleasant of the whole +trip. On December 2 we reached our greatest elevation. According to +the hypsometer and our aneroid barometer we were at a height of 11,075 +feet -- this was in lat. 87º 51'. On December 8 the bad weather came +to an end, the sun shone on us once more, and we were able to take our +observations again. It proved that the observations and our reckoning +of the distance covered gave exactly the same result -- namely, 88º +16' S. lat. Before us lay an absolutely flat plateau, only broken +by small crevices. In the afternoon we passed 88º 23', Shackleton's +farthest south. We pitched our camp in 88º 25', and established our +last depot -- No. 10. From 88º 25' the plateau began to descend evenly +and very slowly. We reached 88º 29' on December 9. On December 10, 88º +56'; December 11, 89º 15'; December 12, 89º 30'; December 13, 89º 45'.</p> + +<p>Up to this moment the observations and our reckoning had shown a +surprising agreement. We reckoned that we should be at the Pole on +December 14. On the afternoon of that day we had brilliant weather -- +a light wind from the south-east with a temperature of -10º F. The +sledges were going very well. The day passed without any occurrence +worth mentioning, and at three o'clock in the afternoon we halted, +as according to our reckoning we had reached our goal.</p> + +<p>We all assembled about the Norwegian flag -- a handsome silken flag -- +which we took and planted all together, and gave the immense plateau +on which the Pole is situated the name of "King Haakon VII.'s Plateau."</p> + +<p>It was a vast plain of the same character in every direction, mile +after mile. During the afternoon we traversed the neighbourhood of +the camp, and on the following day, as the weather was fine, we were +occupied from six in the morning till seven in the evening in taking +observations, which gave us 89º 55' as the result. In order to take +observations as near the Pole as possible, we went on, as near true +south as we could, for the remaining 9 kilometres. On December 16 we +pitched our camp in brilliant sunshine, with the best conditions for +taking observations. Four of us took observations every hour of the +day -- twenty-four in all. The results of these will be submitted to +the examination of experts.</p> + +<p>We have thus taken observations as near to the Pole as was humanly +possible with the instruments at our disposal. We had a sextant and +artificial horizon calculated for a radius of 8 kilometres.</p> + +<p>On December 17 we were ready to go. We raised on the spot a little +circular tent, and planted above it the Norwegian flag and the Fram's +pennant. The Norwegian camp at the South Pole was given the name of +"Polheim." The distance from our winter quarters to the Pole was about +870 English miles, so that we had covered on an average 15 1/2 miles +a day.</p> + +<p>We began the return journey on December 17. The weather was unusually +favourable, and this made our return considerably easier than the +march to the Pole. We arrived at "Framheim," our winter quarters, +in January, 1912, with two sledges and eleven dogs, all well. On the +homeward journey we covered an average of 22 1/2 miles a day. The +lowest temperature we observed on this trip was -24º F., and the +highest +23º F.</p> + +<p>The principal result -- besides the attainment of the Pole -- is +the determination of the extent and character of the Ross Barrier. Next +to this, the discovery of a connection between South Victoria Land +and, probably, King Edward VII. Land through their continuation in +huge mountain-ranges, which run to the south-east and were seen as far +south as lat. 88º 8', but which in all probability are continued right +across the Antarctic Continent. We gave the name of "Queen Maud's +Mountains" to the whole range of these newly discovered mountains, +about 530 miles in length.</p> + +<p>The expedition to King Edward VII. Land, under Lieutenant Prestrud, +has achieved excellent results. Scott's discovery was confirmed, and +the examination of the Bay of Whales and the Ice Barrier, which the +party carried out, is of great interest. Good geological collections +have been obtained from King Edward VII. Land and South Victoria Land.</p> + +<p>The Fram arrived at the Bay of Whales on January 9, having been +delayed in the "Roaring Forties " by easterly winds.</p> + +<p>On January 16 the Japanese expedition arrived at the Bay of Whales, +and landed on the Barrier near our winter quarters.</p> + +<p>We left the Bay of Whales on January 30. We had a long voyage on +account of contrary wind.</p> + +<p>We are all in the best of health.</p> + +<p>Roald Amundsen.</p> + +<p>Hobart,</p> + +<p>March 8, 1912.</p> + +<p></p> + +<p></p> + +<h2><a name="intro"></a>Introduction</h2> + +<p>When the explorer comes home victorious, everyone goes out to cheer +him. We are all proud of his achievement -- proud on behalf of the +nation and of humanity. We think it is a new feather in our cap, +and one we have come by cheaply.</p> + +<p>How many of those who join in the cheering were there when the +expedition was fitting out, when it was short of bare necessities, +when support and assistance were most urgently wanted? Was there +then any race to be first? At such a time the leader has usually +found himself almost alone; too often he has had to confess that his +greatest difficulties were those he had to overcome at home before +he could set sail. So it was with Columbus, and so it has been with +many since his time.</p> + +<p>So it was, too, with Roald Amundsen -- not only the first time, when he +sailed in the Gjöa with the double object of discovering the Magnetic +North Pole and of making the North-West Passage, but this time again, +when in 1910 he left the fjord on his great expedition in the Fram, +to drift right across the North Polar Sea. What anxieties that man has +gone through, which might have been spared him if there had been more +appreciation on the part of those who had it in their power to make +things easier! And Amundsen had then shown what stuff he was made of: +both the great objects of the Gjöa's expedition were achieved. He +has always reached the goal he has aimed at, this man who sailed his +little yacht over the whole Arctic Ocean, round the north of America, +on the course that had been sought in vain for four hundred years. If +he staked his life and abilities, would it not have been natural if +we had been proud of having such a man to support?</p> + +<p>But was it so?</p> + +<p>For a long time he struggled to complete his equipment. Money was still +lacking, and little interest was shown in him and his work, outside the +few who have always helped so far as was in their power. He himself +gave everything he possessed in the world. But this time, as last, +he nevertheless had to put to sea loaded with anxieties and debts, +and, as before, he sailed out quietly on a summer night.</p> + +<p>Autumn was drawing on. One day there came a letter from him. In +order to raise the money he could not get at home for his North Polar +expedition he was going to the South Pole first. People stood still +-- did not know what to say. This was an unheard-of thing, to make +for the North Pole by way of the South Pole! To make such an immense +and entirely new addition to his plans without asking leave! Some +thought it grand; more thought it doubtful; but there were many who +cried out that it was inadmissible, disloyal -- nay, there were some +who wanted to have him stopped. But nothing of this reached him. He +had steered his course as he himself had set it, without looking back.</p> + +<p>Then by degrees it was forgotten, and everyone went on with his own +affairs. The mists were upon us day after day, week after week -- +the mists that are kind to little men and swallow up all that is +great and towers above them.</p> + +<p>Suddenly a bright spring day cuts through the bank of fog. There +is a new message. People stop again and look up. High above them +shines a deed, a man. A wave of joy runs through the souls of men; +their eyes are bright as the flags that wave about them.</p> + +<p>Why? On account of the great geographical discoveries, the +important scientific results? Oh no; that will come later, for the +few specialists. This is something all can understand. A victory of +human mind and human strength over the dominion and powers of Nature; +a deed that lifts us above the grey monotony of daily life; a view +over shining plains, with lofty mountains against the cold blue sky, +and lands covered by ice-sheets of inconceivable extent; a vision +of long-vanished glacial times; the triumph of the living over the +stiffened realm of death. There is a ring of steeled, purposeful +human will -- through icy frosts, snowstorms, and death.</p> + +<p>For the victory is not due to the great inventions of the present +day and the many new appliances of every kind. The means used are +of immense antiquity, the same as were known to the nomad thousands +of years ago, when he pushed forward across the snow-covered plains +of Siberia and Northern Europe. But everything, great and small, was +thoroughly thought out, and the plan was splendidly executed. It is +the man that matters, here as everywhere.</p> + +<p>Like everything great, it all looks so plain and simple. Of course, +that is just as it had to be, we think.</p> + +<p>Apart from the discoveries and experiences of earlier explorers -- +which, of course, were a necessary condition of success -- both +the plan and its execution are the ripe fruit of Norwegian life +and experience in ancient and modern times. The Norwegians' daily +winter life in snow and frost, our peasants' constant use of ski and +ski-sledge in forest and mountain, our sailors' yearly whaling and +sealing life in the Polar Sea, our explorers' journeys in the Arctic +regions -- it was all this, with the dog as a draught animal borrowed +from the primitive races, that formed the foundation of the plan and +rendered its execution possible -- when the man appeared.</p> + +<p>Therefore, when the man is there, it carries him through all +difficulties as if they did not exist; every one of them has been +foreseen and encountered in advance. Let no one come and prate +about luck and chance. Amundsen's luck is that of the strong man who +looks ahead.</p> + +<p>How like him and the whole expedition is his telegram home -- as +simple and straightforward as if it concerned a holiday tour in the +mountains. It speaks of what is achieved, not of their hardships. Every +word a manly one. That is the mark of the right man, quiet and strong.</p> + +<p>It is still too early to measure the extent of the new discoveries, +but the cablegram has already dispersed the mists so far that the +outlines are beginning to shape themselves. That fairyland of ice, so +different from all other lands, is gradually rising out of the clouds.</p> + +<p>In this wonderful world of ice Amundsen has found his own way. From +first to last he and his companions have traversed entirely unknown +regions on their ski, and there are not many expeditions in history +that have brought under the foot of man so long a range of country +hitherto unseen by human eye. People thought it a matter of course that +he would make for Beardmore Glacier, which Shackleton had discovered, +and by that route come out on to the high snow plateau near the Pole, +since there he would be sure of getting forward. We who knew Amundsen +thought it would be more like him to avoid a place for the very reason +that it had been trodden by others. Happily we were right. Not at +any point does his route touch that of the Englishmen -- except by +the Pole itself.</p> + +<p>This is a great gain to research. When in a year's time we have Captain +Scott back safe and sound with all his discoveries and observations on +the other route, Amundsen's results will greatly increase in value, +since the conditions will then be illuminated from two sides. The +simultaneous advance towards the Pole from two separate points was +precisely the most fortunate thing that could happen for science. The +region investigated becomes so much greater, the discoveries so many +more, and the importance of the observations is more than doubled, +often multiplied many times. Take, for instance, the meteorological +conditions: a single series of observations from one spot no doubt has +its value, but if we get a simultaneous series from another spot in +the same region, the value of both becomes very much greater, because +we then have an opportunity of understanding the movements of the +atmosphere. And so with other investigations. Scott's expedition will +certainly bring back rich and important results in many departments, +but the value of his observations will also be enhanced when placed +side by side with Amundsen's.</p> + +<p>An important addition to Amundsen's expedition to the Pole is the +sledge journey of Lieutenant Prestrud and his two companions eastward +to the unknown King Edward VII. Land, which Scott discovered in +1902. It looks rather as if this land was connected with the masses +of land and immense mountain-chains that Amundsen found near the +Pole. We see new problems looming up.</p> + +<p>But it was not only these journeys over ice-sheets and mountain-ranges +that were carried out in masterly fashion. Our gratitude is also due +to Captain Nilsen and his men. They brought the Fram backwards and +forwards, twice each way, through those ice-filled southern waters +that many experts even held to be so dangerous that the Fram would +not be able to come through them, and on both trips this was done +with the speed and punctuality of a ship on her regular route. The +Fram's builder, the excellent Colin Archer, has reason to be proud +of the way in which his "child" has performed her latest task -- +this vessel that has been farthest north and farthest south on our +globe. But Captain Nilsen and the crew of the Fram have done more than +this; they have carried out a work of research which in scientific +value may be compared with what their comrades have accomplished +in the unknown world of ice, although most people will not be able +to recognize this. While Amundsen and his companions were passing +the winter in the South, Captain Nilsen, in the Fram, investigated +the ocean between South America and Africa. At no fewer than sixty +stations they took a number of temperatures, samples of water, and +specimens of the plankton in this little-known region, to a depth of +2,000 fathoms and more. They thus made the first two sections that +have ever been taken of the South Atlantic, and added new regions of +the unknown ocean depths to human knowledge. The Fram's sections are +the longest and most complete that are known in any part of the ocean.</p> + +<p>Would it be unreasonable if those who have endured and achieved so much +had now come home to rest? But Amundsen points onward. So much for +that; now for the real object. Next year his course will be through +Behring Strait into the ice and frost and darkness of the North, to +drift right across the North Polar Sea -- five years, at least. It +seems almost superhuman; but he is the man for that, too. Fram is +his ship, "forward" is his motto, and he will come through.[1] He +will carry out his main expedition, the one that is now before him, +as surely and steadily as that he has just come from.</p> + +<p>But while we are waiting, let us rejoice over what has already been +achieved. Let us follow the narrow sledge-tracks that the little black +dots of dogs and men have drawn across the endless white surface down +there in the South -- like a railroad of exploration into the heart +of the unknown. The wind in its everlasting flight sweeps over these +tracks in the desert of snow. Soon all will be blotted out.</p> + +<p>But the rails of science are laid; our knowledge is richer than before.</p> + +<p>And the light of the achievement shines for all time.</p> + +<p>Fridtjof Nansen.</p> + +<p>Lysaker,</p> + +<p>May 3, 1912.</p> + +<p>FIGURE 1</p> + +<p>The Opening of Roald Amundsen's Manuscript.</p> + +<p>To face page I, Vol. I.</p> + +<p></p> + +<p></p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER I: +<a name="i"></a>The History of the South Pole[2]</h2> + +<p>"Life is a ball In the hands of chance."</p> + +<p>Brisbane, Queensland, April 13, 1912.</p> + +<p>Here I am, sitting in the shade of palms, surrounded by the most +wonderful vegetation, enjoying the most magnificent fruits, and writing +-- the history of the South Pole. What an infinite distance seems to +separate that region from these surroundings! And yet it is only four +months since my gallant comrades and I reached the coveted spot.</p> + +<p>I write the history of the South Pole! If anyone had hinted a word of +anything of the sort four or five years ago, I should have looked upon +him as incurably mad. And yet the madman would have been right. One +circumstance has followed on the heels of another, and everything +has turned out so entirely different from what I had imagined.</p> + +<p>On December 14, 1911, five men stood at the southern end of our earth's +axis, planted the Norwegian flag there, and named the region after +the man for whom they would all gladly have offered their lives -- +King Haakon VII. Thus the veil was torn aside for all time, and one +of the greatest of our earth's secrets had ceased to exist.</p> + +<p>Since I was one of the five who, on that December afternoon, took part +in this unveiling, it has fallen to my lot to write -- the history +of the South Pole.</p> + +<p>Antarctic exploration is very ancient. Even before our conception +of the earth's form had taken definite shape, voyages to the South +began. It is true that not many of the explorers of those distant times +reached what we now understand by the Antarctic regions, but still +the intention and the possibility were there, and justify the name of +Antarctic exploration. The motive force of these undertakings was -- +as has so often been the case -- the hope of gain. Rulers greedy of +power saw in their mind's eye an increase of their possessions. Men +thirsting for gold dreamed of an unsuspected wealth of the alluring +metal. Enthusiastic missionaries rejoiced at the thought of a multitude +of lost sheep. The scientifically trained world waited modestly in +the background. But they have all had their share: politics, trade, +religion, and science.</p> + +<p>The history of Antarctic discovery may be divided at the outset into +two categories. In the first of these I would include the numerous +voyagers who, without any definite idea of the form or conditions of +the southern hemisphere, set their course toward the South, to make +what landfall they could. These need only be mentioned briefly before +passing to the second group, that of Antarctic travellers in the proper +sense of the term, who, with a knowledge of the form of the earth, +set out across the ocean, aiming to strike the Antarctic monster -- +in the heart, if fortune favoured them.</p> + +<p>We must always remember with gratitude and admiration the first sailors +who steered their vessels through storms and mists, and increased our +knowledge of the lands of ice in the South. People of the present day, +who are so well supplied with information about the most distant parts +of the earth, and have all our modern means of communication at their +command, find it difficult to understand the intrepid courage that +is implied by the voyages of these men.</p> + +<p>They shaped their course toward the dark unknown, constantly exposed +to being engulfed and destroyed by the vague, mysterious dangers that +lay in wait for them somewhere in that dim vastness.</p> + +<p>The beginnings were small, but by degrees much was won. One stretch +of country after another was discovered and subjected to the power of +man. Knowledge of the appearance of our globe became ever greater and +took more definite shape. Our gratitude to these first discoverers +should be profound.</p> + +<p>And yet even to-day we hear people ask in surprise: What is the use +of these voyages of exploration? What good do they do us? Little +brains, I always answer to myself, have only room for thoughts of +bread and butter.</p> + +<p>The first name on the roll of discovery is that of Prince Henry of +Portugal, surnamed the Navigator, who is ever to be remembered as +the earliest promoter of geographical research. To his efforts was +due the first crossing of the Equator, about 1470.</p> + +<p>With Bartholomew Diaz another great step in advance was made. Sailing +from Lisbon in 1487, he reached Algoa Bay, and without doubt passed +the fortieth parallel on his southward voyage.</p> + +<p>Vasco da Gama's voyage of 1497 is too well known to need +description. After him came men like Cabral and Vespucci, who +increased our knowledge, and de Gonneville, who added to the romance +of exploration.</p> + +<p>We then meet with the greatest of the older explorers, Ferdinand +Magellan, a Portuguese by birth, though sailing in the service of +Spain. Setting out in 1519, he discovered the connection between the +Atlantic and Pacific Oceans in the strait that bears his name. No one +before him had penetrated so far South -- to about lat. 52º S. One +of his ships, the Victoria, accomplished the first circumnavigation +of the world, and thus established in the popular mind the fact that +the earth was really round. From that time the idea of the Antarctic +regions assumed definite shape. There must be something in the South: +whether land or water the future was to determine.</p> + +<p>In 1578 we come to the renowned English seaman, Sir Francis +Drake. Though he was accounted a buccaneer, we owe him honour for the +geographical discoveries he made. He rounded Cape Horn and proved +that Tierra del Fuego was a great group of islands and not part of +an Antarctic continent, as many had thought.</p> + +<p>The Dutchman, Dirk Gerritsz, who took part in a plundering expedition +to India in 1599 by way of the Straits of Magellan, is said to have +been blown out of his course after passing the straits, and to have +found himself in lat. 64º S. under high land covered with snow. This +has been assumed to be the South Shetland Islands, but the account +of the voyage is open to doubt.</p> + +<p>In the seventeenth century we have the discoveries of Tasman, and +towards its close English adventurers reported having reached high +latitudes in the South Atlantic.</p> + +<p>The English Astronomer Royal, Halley, undertook a scientific voyage to +the South in 1699 for the purpose of making magnetic observations, and +met with ice in 52º S., from which latitude he returned to the north.</p> + +<p>The Frenchman, Bouvet (1738), was the first to follow the southern +ice-pack for any considerable distance, and to bring reports of the +immense, flat-topped Antarctic icebergs.</p> + +<p>In 1756 the Spanish trading-ship Leon came home and reported high, +snow-covered land in lat. 55º S. to the east of Cape Horn. The +probability is that this was what we now know by the name of +South Georgia. The Frenchman, Marion-Dufresne, discovered, in +1772, the Marion and Crozet Islands. In the same year Joseph de +Kerguélen-Trémarec -- another Frenchman -- reached Kerguelen Land.</p> + +<p>This concludes the series of expeditions that I have thought it proper +to class in the first group. "Antarctica," the sixth continent itself, +still lay unseen and untrodden. But human courage and intelligence +were now actively stirred to lift the veil and reveal the many secrets +that were concealed within the Antarctic Circle.</p> + +<p>Captain James Cook -- one of the boldest and most capable seamen +the world has known -- opens the series of Antarctic expeditions +properly so called. The British Admiralty sent him out with orders +to discover the great southern continent, or prove that it did not +exist. The expedition, consisting of two ships, the Resolution and +the Adventure, left Plymouth on July 13, 1772. After a short stay at +Madeira it reached Cape Town on October 30. Here Cook received news of +the discovery of Kerguelen and of the Marion and Crozet Islands. In +the course of his voyage to the south Cook passed 300 miles to the +south of the land reported by Bouvet, and thereby established the fact +that the land in question -- if it existed -- was not continuous with +the great southern continent.</p> + +<p>On January 17, 1773, the Antarctic Circle was crossed for the first +time -- a memorable day in the annals of Antarctic exploration. Shortly +afterwards a solid pack was encountered, and Cook was forced to return +to the north. A course was laid for the newly discovered islands -- +Kerguelen, Marion, and the Crozets -- and it was proved that they +had nothing to do with the great southern land. In the course of his +further voyages in Antarctic waters Cook completed the most southerly +circumnavigation of the globe, and showed that there was no connection +between any of the lands or islands that had been discovered and +the great mysterious "Antarctica." His highest latitude (January 30, +1774) was 71º 10' S.</p> + +<p>Cook's voyages had important commercial results, as his reports of +the enormous number of seals round South Georgia brought many sealers, +both English and American, to those waters, and these sealers, in turn, +increased the field of geographical discovery.</p> + +<p>In 1819 the discovery of the South Shetlands by the Englishman, +Captain William Smith, is to be recorded. And this discovery led to +that of the Palmer Archipelago to the south of them.</p> + +<p>The next scientific expedition to the Antarctic regions was that +despatched by the Emperor Alexander I. of Russia, under the command +of Captain Thaddeus von Bellingshausen. It was composed of two ships, +and sailed from Cronstadt on July 15, 1819. To this expedition belongs +the honour of having discovered the first land to the south of the +Antarctic Circle -- Peter I. Island and Alexander I. Land.</p> + +<p>The next star in the Antarctic firmament is the British seaman, James +Weddell. He made two voyages in a sealer of 160 tons, the Jane of +Leith, in 1819 and 1822, being accompanied on the second occasion by +the cutter Beaufoy. In February, 1823, Weddell had the satisfaction +of beating Cook's record by reaching a latitude of 74º 15' S. in the +sea now known as Weddell Sea, which in that year was clear of ice.</p> + +<p>The English firm of shipowners, Enderby Brothers, plays a not +unimportant part in Antarctic exploration. The Enderbys had carried on +sealing in southern waters since 1785. They were greatly interested, +not only in the commercial, but also in the scientific results of +these voyages, and chose their captains accordingly. In 1830 the +firm sent out John Biscoe on a sealing voyage in the Antarctic Ocean +with the brig Tula and the cutter Lively. The result of this voyage +was the sighting of Enderby Land in lat. 66º 25' S., long. 49º 18' +E. In the following year Adelaide, Biscoe, and Pitt Islands, on the +west coast of Graham Land were charted, and Graham Land itself was +seen for the first time.</p> + +<p>Kemp, another of Enderby's skippers, reported land in lat. 66º S., +and about long. 60º E.</p> + +<p>In 1839 yet another skipper of the same firm, John Balleny, in the +schooner Eliza Scott, discovered the Balleny Islands.</p> + +<p>We then come to the celebrated French sailor, Admiral Jules +Sébastien Dumont d'Urville. He left Toulon in September, 1837, with +a scientifically equipped expedition, in the ships Astrolabe and +Zélée. The intention was to follow in Weddell's track, and endeavour +to carry the French flag still nearer to the Pole. Early in 1838 Louis +Philippe Land and Joinville Island were discovered and named. Two +years later we again find d'Urville's vessels in Antarctic waters, +with the object of investigating the magnetic conditions in the +vicinity of the South Magnetic Pole. Land was discovered in lat. 66º +30' S. and long. 138º 21' E. With the exception of a few bare islets, +the whole of this land was completely covered with snow. It was given +the name of Adélie Land, and a part of the ice-barrier lying to the +west of it was called C^ote Clarie, on the supposition that it must +envelop a line of coast.</p> + +<p>The American naval officer, Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, sailed in +August, 1838, with a fleet of six vessels. The expedition was sent out +by Congress, and carried twelve scientific observers. In February, +1839, the whole of this imposing Antarctic fleet was collected in +Orange Harbour in the south of Tierra del Fuego, where the work +was divided among the various vessels. As to the results of this +expedition it is difficult to express an opinion. Certain it is +that Wilkes Land has subsequently been sailed over in many places +by several expeditions. Of what may have been the cause of this +inaccurate cartography it is impossible to form any opinion. It +appears, however, from the account of the whole voyage, that the +undertaking was seriously conducted.</p> + +<p>Then the bright star appears -- the man whose name will ever be +remembered as one of the most intrepid polar explorers and one of +the most capable seamen the world has produced -- Admiral Sir James +Clark Ross.</p> + +<p>The results of his expedition are well known. Ross himself commanded +the Erebus and Commander Francis Crozier the Terror. The former +vessel, of 370 tons, had been originally built for throwing bombs; +her construction was therefore extraordinarily solid. The Terror, +340 tons, had been previously employed in Arctic waters, and on this +account had been already strengthened. In provisioning the ships, +every possible precaution was taken against scurvy, with the dangers +of which Ross was familiar from his experience in Arctic waters.</p> + +<p>The vessels sailed from England in September, 1839, calling at +many of the Atlantic Islands, and arrived in Christmas Harbour, +Kerguelen Land, in the following May. Here they stayed two months, +making magnetic observations, and then proceeded to Hobart.</p> + +<p>Sir John Franklin, the eminent polar explorer, was at that time +Governor of Tasmania, and Ross could not have wished for a better +one. Interested as Franklin naturally was in the expedition, he +afforded it all the help he possibly could. During his stay in Tasmania +Ross received information of what had been accomplished by Wilkes and +Dumont d'Urville in the very region which the Admiralty had sent him +to explore. The effect of this news was that Ross changed his plans, +and decided to proceed along the 170th meridian E., and if possible +to reach the Magnetic Pole from the eastward.</p> + +<p>Here was another fortuitous circumstance in the long chain of +events. If Ross had not received this intelligence, it is quite +possible that the epoch-making geographical discoveries associated +with his name would have been delayed for many years.</p> + +<p>On November 12, 1840, Sir John Franklin went on board the Erebus +to accompany his friend Ross out of port. Strange are the ways of +life! There stood Franklin on the deck of the ship which a few years +later was to be his deathbed. Little did he suspect, as he sailed +out of Hobart through Storm Bay -- the bay that is now wreathed by +the flourishing orchards of Tasmania -- that he would meet his death +in a high northern latitude on board the same vessel, in storms and +frost. But so it was.</p> + +<p>After calling at the Auckland Islands and at Campbell Island, Ross +again steered for the South, and the Antarctic Circle was crossed on +New Year's Day, 1841. The ships were now faced by the ice-pack, but +to Ross this was not the dangerous enemy it had appeared to earlier +explorers with their more weakly constructed vessels. Ross plunged +boldly into the pack with his fortified ships, and, taking advantage +of the narrow leads, he came out four days later, after many severe +buffets, into the open sea to the South.</p> + +<p>Ross had reached the sea now named after him, and the boldest voyage +known in Antarctic exploration was accomplished.</p> + +<p>Few people of the present day are capable of rightly appreciating this +heroic deed; this brilliant proof of human courage and energy. With +two ponderous craft -- regular "tubs" according to our ideas -- these +men sailed right into the heart of the pack, which all previous polar +explorers had regarded as certain death. It is not merely difficult +to grasp this; it is simply impossible -- to us, who with a motion +of the hand can set the screw going, and wriggle out of the first +difficulty we encounter. These men were heroes -- heroes in the +highest sense of the word.</p> + +<p>It was in lat. 69º 15' S. and long. 176º 15' E. that Ross found the +open sea. On the following day the horizon was perfectly clear of +ice. What joy that man must have felt when he saw that he had a clear +way to the South!</p> + +<p>The course was set for the Magnetic Pole, and the hope of soon reaching +it burned in the hearts of all. Then -- just as they had accustomed +themselves to the idea of open sea, perhaps to the Magnetic Pole +itself -- the crow's-nest reported "High land right ahead." This was +the mountainous coast of South Victoria Land.</p> + +<p>What a fairyland this must have seemed to the first voyagers who +approached it! Mighty mountain-ranges with summits from 7,000 to +10,000 feet high, some covered with snow and some quite bare -- +lofty and rugged, precipitous and wild.</p> + +<p>It became apparent that the Magnetic Pole was some 500 miles distant +-- far inland, behind the snow-covered ridges. On the morning of +January 12 they came close under a little island, and Ross with a +few companions rowed ashore and took possession of the country. They +could not reach the mainland itself on account of the thick belt of +ice that lay along the coast.</p> + +<p>The expedition continued to work its way southward, making fresh +discoveries. On January 28 the two lofty summits, Mount Erebus and +Mount Terror, were sighted for the first time. The former was seen to +be an active volcano, from which smoke and flames shot up into the +sky. It must have been a wonderfully fine sight, this flaming fire +in the midst of the white, frozen landscape. Captain Scott has since +given the island, on which the mountains lie, the name of Ross Island, +after the intrepid navigator.</p> + +<p>Naturally there were great expectations on board. If they had +penetrated so far south, there might be no limit to their further +progress. But, as had happened so many times before, their hopes were +disappointed. From Ross Island, as far to the eastward as the eye +could see, there extended a lofty, impenetrable wall of ice. To sail +through it was as impossible as sailing through the cliffs of Dover, +Ross says in his description. All they could do was to try to get +round it. And then began the first examination of that part of the +great Antarctic Barrier which has since been named the Ross Barrier.</p> + +<p>The wall of ice was followed to the eastward for a distance of 250 +miles. Its upper surface was seen to be perfectly flat. The most +easterly point reached was long. 167º W., and the highest latitude +78º 4' S. No opening having been found, the ships returned to the +west, in order to try once more whether there was any possibility of +reaching the Magnetic Pole. But this attempt soon had to be abandoned +on account of the lateness of the season, and in April, 1841, Ross +returned to Hobart.</p> + +<p>His second voyage was full of dangers and thrilling incidents, but +added little to the tale of his discoveries.</p> + +<p>On February 22, 1842, the ships came in sight of the Barrier, and, +following it to the east, found that it turned north-eastward. Here +Ross recorded an "appearance of land" in the very region in which +Captain Scott, sixty years later, discovered King Edward VII. Land.</p> + +<p>On December 17, 1842, Ross set out on his third and last Antarctic +voyage. His object this time was to reach a high latitude along +the coast of Louis Philippe Land, if possible, or alternatively +by following Weddell's track. Both attempts were frustrated by the +ice conditions.</p> + +<p>On sighting Joinville Land, the officers of the Terror thought they +could see smoke from active volcanoes, but Ross and his men did not +confirm this. About fifty years later active volcanoes were actually +discovered by the Norwegian, Captain C. A. Larsen, in the Jason. A +few minor geographical discoveries were made, but none of any great +importance.</p> + +<p>This concluded Ross's attempts to reach the South Pole. A magnificent +work had been achieved, and the honour of having opened up the way +by which, at last, the Pole was reached must be ascribed to Ross.</p> + +<p>The Pagoda, commanded by Lieutenant Moore, was the next vessel to make +for the South. Her chief object was to make magnetic observations in +high latitudes south of the Indian Ocean.</p> + +<p>The first ice was met with in lat. 53º 30' S., on January 25,1845. On +February 5 the Antarctic Circle was crossed in long. 30º 45' E. The +most southerly latitude attained on this voyage was 67º 50', in +long. 39º41' E.</p> + +<p>This was the last expedition to visit the Antarctic regions in a ship +propelled by sails alone.</p> + +<p>The next great event in the history of the southern seas is the +Challenger expedition. This was an entirely scientific expedition, +splendidly equipped and conducted.</p> + +<p>The achievements of this expedition are, however, so well known over +the whole civilized world that I do not think it necessary to dwell +upon them.</p> + +<p>Less known, but no less efficient in their work, were the whalers +round the South Shetlands and in the regions to the south of them. The +days of sailing-ships were now past, and vessels with auxiliary steam +appear on the scene.</p> + +<p>Before passing on to these, I must briefly mention a man who throughout +his life insisted on the necessity and utility of Antarctic expeditions +-- Professor Georg von Neumayer.</p> + +<p>Never has Antarctic research had a warmer, nobler, and more high-minded +champion. So long as "Antarctica" endures, the name of Neumayer will +always be connected with it.</p> + +<p>The steam whaler Grönland left Hamburg on July 22, 1872, in command +of Captain Eduard Dallmann, bound for the South Shetlands. Many +interesting geographical discoveries were made on this voyage.</p> + +<p>Amongst other whalers may be mentioned the Balæna, the Diana, the +Active, and the Polar Star of Dundee.</p> + +<p>In 1892 the whole of this fleet stood to the South to hunt for +whales in the vicinity of the South Shetlands. They each brought home +with them some fresh piece of information. On board the Balæna was +Dr. William S. Bruce. This is the first time we meet with him on his +way to the South, but it was not to be the last.</p> + +<p>Simultaneously with the Scottish whaling fleet, the Norwegian whaling +captain, C. A. Larsen, appears in the regions to the south of the +South Shetlands. It is not too much to say of Captain Larsen that +of all those who have visited the Antarctic regions in search of +whales, he has unquestionably brought home the best and most abundant +scientific results. To him we owe the discovery of large stretches +of the east coast of Graham Land, King Oscar II. Land, Foyn's Land, +etc. He brought us news of two active volcanoes, and many groups of +islands. But perhaps the greatest interest attaches to the fossils +he brought home from Seymour Island -- the first to be obtained from +the Antarctic regions.</p> + +<p>In November, 1894, Captain Evensen in the Hertha succeeded in +approaching nearer to Alexander I. Land than either Bellingshausen +or Biscoe. But the search for whales claimed his attention, and he +considered it his duty to devote himself to that before anything else.</p> + +<p>A grand opportunity was lost: there can be no doubt that, if Captain +Evensen had been free, he would here have had a chance of achieving +even better work than he did -- bold, capable, and enterprising as +he is.</p> + +<p>The next whaling expedition to make its mark in the South Polar regions +is that of the Antarctic, under Captain Leonard Kristensen. Kristensen +was an extraordinarily capable man, and achieved the remarkable record +of being the first to set foot on the sixth continent, the great +southern land -- "Antarctica." This was at Cape Adare, Victoria Land, +in January, 1895.</p> + +<p>An epoch-making phase of Antarctic research is now ushered in by the +Belgian expedition in the Belgica, under the leadership of Commander +Adrien de Gerlache. Hardly anyone has had a harder fight to set his +enterprise on foot than Gerlache. He was successful, however, and on +August 16, 1897, the Belgica left Antwerp.</p> + +<p>The scientific staff had been chosen with great care, and Gerlache +had been able to secure the services of exceedingly able men. His +second in command, Lieutenant G. Lecointe, a Belgian, possessed every +qualification for his difficult position. It must be remembered that +the Belgica's company was as cosmopolitan as it could be -- Belgians, +Frenchmen, Americans, Norwegians, Swedes, Rumanians, Poles, etc. -- +and it was the business of the second in command to keep all these +men together and get the best possible work out of them. And Lecointe +acquitted himself admirably; amiable and firm, he secured the respect +of all.</p> + +<p>As a navigator and astronomer he was unsurpassable, and when he +afterwards took over the magnetic work he rendered great services in +this department also. Lecointe will always be remembered as one of +the main supports of this expedition.</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Emile Danco, another Belgian, was the physicist of the +expedition. Unfortunately this gifted young man died at an early +stage of the voyage -- a sad loss to the expedition. The magnetic +observations were then taken over by Lecointe.</p> + +<p>The biologist was the Rumanian, Emile Racovitza. The immense mass +of material Racovitza brought home speaks better than I can for his +ability. Besides a keen interest in his work, he possessed qualities +which made him the most agreeable and interesting of companions.</p> + +<p>Henryk Arçtowski and Antoine Dobrowolski were both Poles. Their share +of the work was the sky and the sea; they carried out oceanographical +and meteorological observations.</p> + +<p>Henry Arçtowski was also the geologist of the expedition -- an +all-round man. It was a strenuous task he had, that of constantly +watching wind and weather. Conscientious as he was, he never let slip +an opportunity of adding to the scientific results of the voyage.</p> + +<p>Frederick A. Cook, of Brooklyn, was surgeon to the expedition +-- beloved and respected by all. As a medical man, his calm and +convincing presence had an excellent effect. As things turned out, +the greatest responsibility fell upon Cook, but he mastered the +situation in a wonderful way. Through his practical qualities he +finally became indispensable. It cannot be denied that the Belgian +Antarctic expedition owes a great debt to Cook.</p> + +<p>The object of the expedition was to penetrate to the South Magnetic +Pole, but this had to be abandoned at an early stage for want of time.</p> + +<p>A somewhat long stay in the interesting channels of Tierra del Fuego +delayed their departure till January 13, 1898. On that date the +Belgica left Staten Island and stood to the South.</p> + +<p>An interesting series of soundings was made between Cape Horn and the +South Shetlands. As these waters had not previously been investigated, +these soundings were, of course, of great importance.</p> + +<p>The principal work of the expedition, from a geographical point of +view, was carried out on the north coast of Graham Land.</p> + +<p>A large channel running to the south-west was discovered, dividing a +part of Palmer Land from the mainland -- Danco's Land. The strait was +afterwards named by the Belgian authorities "Gerlache Strait." Three +weeks were spent in charting it and making scientific observations. An +excellent collection of material was made.</p> + +<p>This work was completed by February 12, and the Belgica left Gerlache +Strait southward along the coast of Graham Land, at a date when all +previous expeditions had been in a hurry to turn their faces homeward.</p> + +<p>On the 15th the Antarctic Circle was crossed on a south-westerly +course. Next day they sighted Alexander Land, but could not approach +nearer to it than twenty miles on account of impenetrable pack-ice.</p> + +<p>On February 28 they had reached lat. 70º 20' S. and long. 85º W. Then a +breeze from the north sprang up and opened large channels in the ice, +leading southward. They turned to the south, and plunged at haphazard +into the Antarctic floes.</p> + +<p>On March 3 they reached lat. 70º 30' S., where all further progress +was hopeless. An attempt to get out again was in vain -- they were +caught in the trap. They then had to make the best of it.</p> + +<p>Many have been disposed to blame Gerlache for having gone into the ice, +badly equipped as he was, at a time of year when he ought rather to +have been making his way out, and they may be right. But let us look +at the question from the other side as well.</p> + +<p>After years of effort he had at last succeeded in getting the +expedition away. Gerlache knew for a certainty that unless he returned +with results that would please the public, he might just as well never +return at all. Then the thickly packed ice opened, and long channels +appeared, leading as far southward as the eye could reach. Who could +tell? Perhaps they led to the Pole itself. There was little to lose, +much to gain; he decided to risk it.</p> + +<p>Of course, it was not right, but we can easily understand it.</p> + +<p>The Belgica now had thirteen long months before her. Preparations +were commenced at once for the winter. As many seals and penguins as +could be found were shot, and placed in store.</p> + +<p>The scientific staff was constantly active, and brilliant +oceanographical, meteorological, and magnetic work was accomplished.</p> + +<p>On May 17 the sun disappeared, not to be seen again for seventy +days. The first Antarctic night had begun. What would it bring? The +Belgica was not fitted for wintering in the ice. For one thing, +personal equipment was insufficient. They had to do the best they +could by making clothes out of blankets, and the most extraordinary +devices were contrived in the course of the winter. Necessity is the +mother of invention.</p> + +<p>On June 5 Danco died of heart-failure.</p> + +<p>On the same day they had a narrow escape of being squeezed in the +ice. Fortunately the enormous block of ice passed under the vessel +and lifted her up without doing her any damage. Otherwise, the first +part of the winter passed off well.</p> + +<p>Afterwards sickness appeared, and threatened the most serious danger +to the expedition -- scurvy and insanity. One of them by itself would +have been bad enough. Scurvy especially increased, and did such havoc +that finally there was not a single man who escaped being attacked +by this fearful disease.</p> + +<p>Cook's behaviour at this time won the respect and devotion of +all. It is not too much to say that Cook was the most popular man +of the expedition, and he deserved it. From morning to night he +was occupied with his many patients, and when the sun returned it +happened not infrequently that, after a strenuous day's work, the +doctor sacrificed his night's sleep to go hunting seals and penguins, +in order to provide the fresh meat that was so greatly needed by all.</p> + +<p>On July 22 the sun returned.</p> + +<p>It was not a pleasant sight that it shone upon. The Antarctic winter +had set its mark upon all, and green, wasted faces stared at the +returning light.</p> + +<p>Time went on, and the summer arrived. They waited day by day to see a +change in the ice. But no; the ice they had entered so light-heartedly +was not to be so easy to get out of again.</p> + +<p>New Year's Day came and went without any change in the ice.</p> + +<p>The situation now began to be seriously threatening. Another winter +in the ice would mean death and destruction on a large scale. Disease +and insufficient nourishment would soon make an end of most of the +ship's company.</p> + +<p>Again Cook came to the aid of the expedition.</p> + +<p>In conjunction with Racovitza he had thought out a very ingenious way +of sawing a channel, and thus reaching the nearest lead. The proposal +was submitted to the leader of the expedition and accepted by him; +both the plan and the method of carrying it out were well considered.</p> + +<p>After three weeks' hard work, day and night, they at last reached +the lead.</p> + +<p>Cook was incontestably the leading spirit in this work, and gained +such honour among the members of the expedition that I think it just +to mention it. Upright, honourable, capable, and conscientious in +the extreme -- such is the memory we retain of Frederick A. Cook from +those days.</p> + +<p>Little did his comrades suspect that a few years later he would be +regarded as one of the greatest humbugs the world has ever seen. This +is a psychological enigma well worth studying to those who care to +do so.</p> + +<p>But the Belgica was not yet clear of the ice. After having worked +her way out into the lead and a little way on, she was stopped by +absolutely close pack, within sight of the open sea.</p> + +<p>For a whole month the expedition lay here, reaping the same experiences +as Ross on his second voyage with the Erebus and Terror. The immense +seas raised the heavy ice high in the air, and flung it against the +sides of the vessel. That month was a hell upon earth. Strangely +enough, the Belgica escaped undamaged, and steamed into Punta Arenas +in the Straits of Magellan on March 28, 1899.</p> + +<p>Modern scientific Antarctic exploration had now been initiated, +and de Gerlache had won his place for all time in the first rank of +Antarctic explorers.</p> + +<p>While the Belgica was trying her hardest to get out of the ice, +another vessel was making equally strenuous efforts to get in. This +was the Southern Cross, the ship of the English expedition, under the +leadership of Carstens Borchgrevink. This expedition's field of work +lay on the opposite side of the Pole, in Ross's footsteps.</p> + +<p>On February 11, 1899, the Southern Cross entered Ross Sea in lat. 70º +S. and long. 174º E., nearly sixty years after Ross had left it.</p> + +<p>A party was landed at Cape Adare, where it wintered. The ship wintered +in New Zealand.</p> + +<p>In January, 1900, the land party was taken off, and an examination +of the Barrier was carried out with the vessel. This expedition +succeeded for the first time in ascending the Barrier, which from +Ross's day had been looked upon as inaccessible. The Barrier formed +a little bight at the spot where the landing was made, and the ice +sloped gradually down to the sea.</p> + +<p>We must acknowledge that by ascending the Barrier, Borchgrevink +opened a way to the south, and threw aside the greatest obstacle +to the expeditions that followed. The Southern Cross returned to +civilization in March, 1900.</p> + +<p>The Valdivia's expedition, under Professor Chun, of Leipzig, must +be mentioned, though in our day it can hardly be regarded as an +Antarctic expedition. On this voyage the position of Bouvet Island +was established once for all as lat. 54º 26' S., long. 3º 24' E.</p> + +<p>The ice was followed from long. 8º E. to 58º E., as closely as the +vessel could venture to approach. Abundance of oceanographical material +was brought home.</p> + +<p>Antarctic exploration now shoots rapidly ahead, and the twentieth +century opens with the splendidly equipped British and German +expeditions in the Discovery and the Gauss, both national undertakings.</p> + +<p>Captain Robert F. Scott was given command of the Discovery's +expedition, and it could not have been placed in better hands.</p> + +<p>The second in command was Lieutenant Armitage, who had taken part in +the Jackson-Harmsworth North Polar expedition.</p> + +<p>The other officers were Royds, Barne, and Shackleton.</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Skelton was chief engineer and photographer to the +expedition. Two surgeons were on board -- Dr. Koettlitz, a former +member of the Jackson-Harmsworth expedition, and Dr. Wilson. The latter +was also the artist of the expedition. Bernacchi was the physicist, +Hodgson the biologist, and Ferrar the geologist.</p> + +<p>On August 6, 1901, the expedition left Cowes, and arrived at Simon's +Bay on October 3. On the 14th it sailed again for New Zealand.</p> + +<p>The official plan was to determine as accurately as possible the +nature and extent of the South Polar lands that might be found, and +to make a magnetic survey. It was left to the leader of the expedition +to decide whether it should winter in the ice.</p> + +<p>It was arranged beforehand that a relief ship should visit and +communicate with the expedition in the following year.</p> + +<p>The first ice was met with in the neighbourhood of the Antarctic +Circle on January 1, 1902, and a few days later the open Ross Sea +was reached. After several landings had been made at Cape Adare and +other points, the Discovery made a very interesting examination of +the Barrier to the eastward. At this part of the voyage King Edward +VII. Land was discovered, but the thick ice-floes prevented the +expedition from landing. On the way back the ship entered the same +bight that Borchgrevink had visited in 1900, and a balloon ascent +was made on the Barrier. The bay was called Balloon Inlet.</p> + +<p>From here the ship returned to McMurdo Bay, so named by Ross. Here +the Discovery wintered, in a far higher latitude than any previous +expedition. In the course of the autumn it was discovered that the +land on which the expedition had its winter quarters was an island, +separated from the mainland by McMurdo Sound. It was given the name +of Ross Island.</p> + +<p>Sledge journeys began with the spring. Depots were laid down, and +the final march to the South was begun on November 2, 1902, by Scott, +Shackleton, and Wilson.</p> + +<p>They had nineteen dogs to begin with. On November 27 they passed the +80th parallel. Owing to the nature of the ground their progress was +not rapid; the highest latitude was reached on December 30 -- 82º +17' S. New land was discovered -- a continuation of South Victoria +Land. One summit after another rose higher and higher to the south.</p> + +<p>The return journey was a difficult one. The dogs succumbed one after +another, and the men themselves had to draw the sledges. It went +well enough so long as all were in health; but suddenly Shackleton +was incapacitated by scurvy, and there were only two left to pull +the sledges.</p> + +<p>On February 3 they reached the ship again, after an absence of +ninety-three days.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile Armitage and Skelton had reached, for the first time in +history, the high Antarctic inland plateau at an altitude of 9,000 +feet above the sea.</p> + +<p>The relief ship Morning had left Lyttelton on December 9. On her way +south Scott Island was discovered, and on January 25 the Discovery's +masts were seen. But McMurdo Sound lay icebound all that year, and +the Morning returned home on March 3.</p> + +<p>The expedition passed a second winter in the ice, and in the following +spring Captain Scott led a sledge journey to the west on the ice +plateau. In January, 1904, the Morning returned, accompanied by the +Terra Nova, formerly a Newfoundland sealing vessel. They brought +orders from home that the Discovery was to be abandoned if she could +not be got out. Preparations were made for carrying out the order, +but finally, after explosives had been used, a sudden break-up of +the ice set the vessel free.</p> + +<p>All the coal that could be spared was put on board the Discovery from +the relief ships, and Scott carried his researches further. If at that +time he had had more coal, it is probable that this active explorer +would have accomplished even greater things than he did. Wilkes's +"Ringgold's Knoll" and "Eld's Peak" were wiped off the map, and +nothing was seen of "Cape Hudson," though the Discovery passed well +within sight of its supposed position.</p> + +<p>On March 14 Scott anchored in Ross Harbour, Auckland Islands. With +rich results, the expedition returned home in September, 1904.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the German expedition under Professor Erich von Drygalski +had been doing excellent work in another quarter.</p> + +<p>The plan of the expedition was to explore the Antarctic regions to +the south of Kerguelen Land, after having first built a station on +that island and landed a scientific staff, who were to work there, +while the main expedition proceeded into the ice. Its ship, the Gauss, +had been built at Kiel with the Fram as a model.</p> + +<p>The Gauss's navigator was Captain Hans Ruser, a skilful seaman of +the Hamburg-American line.</p> + +<p>Drygalski had chosen his scientific staff with knowledge and care, +and it is certain that he could not have obtained better assistants.</p> + +<p>The expedition left Kiel on August 11, 1901, bound for Cape Town. An +extraordinarily complete oceanographical, meteorological, and magnetic +survey was made during this part of the voyage.</p> + +<p>After visiting the Crozet Islands, the Gauss anchored in Royal Sound, +Kerguelen Land, on December 31. The expedition stayed here a month, +and then steered for the south to explore the regions between Kemp +Land and Knox Land. They had already encountered a number of bergs +in lat. 60º S.</p> + +<p>On February 14 they made a sounding of 1,730 fathoms near the supposed +position of Wilkes's Termination Land. Progress was very slow hereabout +on account of the thick floes.</p> + +<p>Suddenly, on February 19, they had a sounding of 132 fathoms, and on +the morning of February 21 land was sighted, entirely covered with +ice and snow. A violent storm took the Gauss by surprise, collected +a mass of icebergs around her, and filled up the intervening space +with floes, so that there could be no question of making any way. They +had to swallow the bitter pill, and prepare to spend the winter where +they were.</p> + +<p>Observatories were built of ice, and sledge journeys were undertaken as +soon as the surface permitted. They reached land in three and a half +days, and there discovered a bare mountain, about 1,000 feet high, +fifty miles from the ship. The land was named Kaiser Wilhelm II. Land, +and the mountain the Gaussberg.</p> + +<p>They occupied the winter in observations of every possible kind. The +weather was extremely stormy and severe, but their winter harbour, +under the lee of great stranded bergs, proved to be a good one. They +were never once exposed to unpleasant surprises.</p> + +<p>On February 8, 1903, the Gauss was able to begin to move again. From +the time she reached the open sea until her arrival at Cape Town on +June 9, scientific observations were continued.</p> + +<p>High land had been seen to the eastward on the bearing of Wilkes's +Termination Land, and an amount of scientific work had been +accomplished of which the German nation may well be proud. Few +Antarctic expeditions have had such a thoroughly scientific equipment +as that of the Gauss, both as regards appliances and personnel.</p> + +<p>The Swedish Antarctic expedition under Dr. Otto Nordenskjöld left +Gothenburg on October 16, 1901, in the Antarctic, commanded by Captain +C. A. Larsen, already mentioned. The scientific staff was composed +of nine specialists.</p> + +<p>After calling at the Falkland Islands and Staten Island, a course was +made for the South Shetlands, which came in sight on January 10, 1902.</p> + +<p>After exploring the coast of Louis Philippe Land, the ship visited +Weddell Sea in the hope of getting southward along King Oscar II. Land, +but the ice conditions were difficult, and it was impossible to reach +the coast.</p> + +<p>Nordenskjöld and five men were then landed on Snow Hill Island, with +materials for an observatory and winter quarters and the necessary +provisions. The ship continued her course northward to the open sea.</p> + +<p>The first winter on Snow Hill Island was unusually stormy and cold, but +during the spring several interesting sledge journeys were made. When +summer arrived the Antarctic did not appear, and the land party were +obliged to prepare for a second winter. In the following spring, +October, 1903, Nordenskjöld made a sledge journey to explore the +neighbourhood of Mount Haddington, and a closer examination showed +that the mountain lay on an island. In attempting to work round this +island, he one day stumbled upon three figures, doubtfully human, +which might at first sight have been taken for some of our African +brethren straying thus far to the south.</p> + +<p>It took Nordenskjöld a long time to recognize in these beings +Dr. Gunnar Andersson, Lieutenant Duse, and their companion during +the winter, a Norwegian sailor named Grunden.</p> + +<p>The way it came about was this. The Antarctic had made repeated +attempts to reach the winter station, but the state of the ice was +bad, and they had to give up the idea of getting through. Andersson, +Duse and Grunden were then landed in the vicinity, to bring news +to the winter quarters as soon as the ice permitted them to arrive +there. They had been obliged to build themselves a stone hut, in +which they had passed the winter.</p> + +<p>This experience is one of the most interesting one can read of +in the history of the Polar regions. Badly equipped as they were, +they had to have recourse, like Robinson Crusoe, to their inventive +faculties. The most extraordinary contrivances were devised in the +course of the winter, and when spring came the three men stepped out +of their hole, well and hearty, ready to tackle their work.</p> + +<p>This was such a remarkable feat that everyone who has some knowledge +of Polar conditions must yield them his admiration. But there is more +to tell.</p> + +<p>On November 8, when both parties were united at Snow Hill, they +were unexpectedly joined by Captain Irizar, of the Argentine gunboat +Uruguay, and one of his officers. Some anxiety had been felt owing to +the absence of news of the Antarctic, and the Argentine Government +had sent the Uruguay to the South to search for the expedition. But +what in the world had become of Captain Larsen and the Antarctic? This +was the question the others asked themselves.</p> + +<p>The same night -- it sounds almost incredible -- there was a knock +at the door of the hut, and in walked Captain Larsen with five of his +men. They brought the sad intelligence that the good ship Antarctic +was no more. The crew had saved themselves on the nearest island, +while the vessel sank, severely damaged by ice.</p> + +<p>They, too, had had to build themselves a stone hut and get through the +winter as best they could. They certainly did not have an easy time, +and I can imagine that the responsibility weighed heavily on him who +had to bear it. One man died; the others came through it well.</p> + +<p>Much of the excellent material collected by the expedition was lost +by the sinking of the Antarctic, but a good deal was brought home.</p> + +<p>Both from a scientific and from a popular point of view this expedition +may be considered one of the most interesting the South Polar regions +have to show.</p> + +<p>We then come to the Scotsman, Dr. William S. Bruce, in the Scotia.</p> + +<p>We have met with Bruce before: first in the Balæna in 1892, and +afterwards with Mr. Andrew Coats in Spitzbergen. The latter voyage +was a fortunate one for Bruce, as it provided him with the means of +fitting out his expedition in the Scotia to Antarctic waters.</p> + +<p>The vessel left the Clyde on November 2,1902, under the command of +Captain Thomas Robertson, of Dundee. Bruce had secured the assistance +of Mossman, Rudmose Brown and Dr. Pirie for the scientific work. In +the following February the Antarctic Circle was crossed, and on the +22nd of that month the ship was brought to a standstill in lat. 70º +25' S. The winter was spent at Laurie Island, one of the South Orkneys.</p> + +<p>Returning to the south, the Scotia reached, in March, 1904, lat. 74º 1' +S., long. 22º W., where the sea rapidly shoaled to 159 fathoms. Further +progress was impossible owing to ice. Hilly country was sighted beyond +the barrier, and named "Coats Land," after Bruce's chief supporters.</p> + +<p>In the foremost rank of the Antarctic explorers of our time stands +the French savant and yachtsman, Dr. Jean Charcot. In the course of +his two expeditions of 1903 -- 1905 and 1908 -- 1910 he succeeded in +opening up a large extent of the unknown continent. We owe to him +a closer acquaintance with Alexander I. Land, and the discovery of +Loubet, Fallières and Charcot Lands is also his work.</p> + +<p>His expeditions were splendidly equipped, and the scientific results +were extraordinarily rich. The point that compels our special +admiration in Charcot's voyages is that he chose one of the most +difficult fields of the Antarctic zone to work in. The ice conditions +here are extremely unfavourable, and navigation in the highest degree +risky. A coast full of submerged reefs and a sea strewn with icebergs +was what the Frenchmen had to contend with. The exploration of such +regions demands capable men and stout vessels.</p> + +<p>Sir Ernest Shackleton! -- the name has a brisk sound. At its mere +mention we see before us a man of indomitable will and boundless +courage. He has shown us what the will and energy of a single man +can perform. He gained his first experience of Antarctic exploration +as a member of the British expedition in the Discovery, under Captain +Scott. It was a good school. Scott, Wilson, and Shackleton, formed the +southern party, with the highest latitude as their goal. They reached +82º 17' S. -- a great record at that time. Being attacked by scurvy, +Shackleton had to go home at the first opportunity.</p> + +<p>Shortly after his return Shackleton began to make active +preparations. Few people had any faith in Shackleton. Wasn't it +he who was sent home from the Discovery after the first year? What +does he want to go out for again? He has shown well enough that he +can't stand the work! Shackleton had a hard struggle to find the +necessary funds. He left England unheeded and loaded with debts in +August, 1907, on board the Nimrod, bound for the South Pole. With +surprising frankness he declared his intention of trying to reach the +Pole itself. So far as I know, he was the first who ventured to say +straight out that the Pole was his object. This hearty frankness was +the first thing that struck me, and made me look more closely at the +man. Later on I followed his steps with the greatest interest. The +expedition, unnoticed when it left England, was soon forgotten. At +most, people connected the name of Shackleton with the rank of +"Lieutenant R.N.R." And the months went by ....</p> + +<p>Then suddenly came a piece of news that made a great stir. It was in +the latter half of March, 1909. The telegraphic instruments were busy +all over the world; letter by letter, word by word, they ticked out the +message, until it could be clearly read that one of the most wonderful +achievements of Polar exploration had been accomplished. Everyone was +spellbound. Was it possible? Could it be true? Shackleton, Lieutenant +R.N.R., had fought his way to lat. 88º 23' S.</p> + +<p>Seldom has a man enjoyed a greater triumph; seldom has a man deserved +it better.</p> + +<p>As the details of Sir Ernest Shackleton's expedition will be fresh +in the minds of English readers, it is unnecessary to recapitulate +them here. A few points may, however, be noted, for comparison with +the Fram's expedition.</p> + +<p>The plan was to leave New Zealand at the beginning of 1908 and go +into winter quarters on the Antarctic continent with the necessary +provisions and equipment, while the vessel returned to New Zealand +and came back to take off the land party in the following year.</p> + +<p>The land party that wintered in the South was divided into three. One +party was to go eastward to King Edward VII. Land and explore it, +the second was to go westward to the South Magnetic Pole, and the +third southward toward the Geographical Pole.</p> + +<p>In the plan submitted to the Royal Geographical Society Shackleton +says: "I do not intend to sacrifice the scientific utility of the +expedition to a mere record-breaking journey, but say frankly, all +the same, that one of my great efforts will be to reach the Southern +Geographical Pole."</p> + +<p>It was further intended that the Nimrod should explore Wilkes Land.</p> + +<p>As draught animals Shackleton had both ponies and dogs, but chiefly +ponies. The dogs were regarded more as a reserve. Shackleton's +experience was that the Ice Barrier was best suited for ponies. They +also took a motor-car, besides the usual equipment of sledges, ski, +tents, etc.</p> + +<p>Leaving Lyttelton on January 1, 1908, the Nimrod reached the ice-pack +on the 15th, and arrived in the open Ross Sea in lat. 70º 43' S., +long. 178º 58' E. The Ross Barrier was sighted on January 23. The +original intention was to follow this, and try to land the shore party +in Barrier Inlet, which was practically the beginning of King Edward +VII. Land; but it was found that Barrier Inlet had disappeared, owing +to miles of the Barrier having calved away. In its place was a long, +wide bay, which Shackleton named the Bay of Whales. This discovery +determined him not to attempt to winter on the Barrier, but on solid +land. At this part of the voyage the course of the Nimrod coincided +very nearly with that of the Fram on her second outward trip.</p> + +<p>After an unsuccessful attempt to reach King Edward VII. Land, +Shackleton turned to the west and took up his winter quarters on Ross +Island in McMurdo Sound.</p> + +<p>The southern party, composed of Shackleton, Adams, Marshall, and +Wild, started on October 29, 1908, with four sledges, four ponies, +and provisions for ninety-one days. On November 26 Scott's farthest +south, 82º 17' S. was passed. By the time lat. 84º was reached all the +ponies were dead, and the men had to draw the sledges themselves. They +were then faced by the long and difficult ascent of Beardmore Glacier, +and it was not until seventeen days later that they came out on the +high plateau surrounding the Pole. At last, on January 9, 1909, they +were compelled to return by shortness of provisions, having planted +Queen Alexandra's flag in lat. 88º 23' S., long. 162º E.</p> + +<p>Everyone who reads Shackleton's diary must feel a boundless admiration +for these four heroes. History can scarcely show a clearer proof of +what men can accomplish when they exert their full strength of will +and body. These men have raised a monument, not only to themselves +and their achievement, but also to the honour of their native land +and the whole of civilized humanity.</p> + +<p>Shackleton's exploit is the most brilliant incident in the history +of Antarctic exploration.</p> + +<p>The distance covered, out and back, was 1,530 geographical miles. The +time occupied was 127 days -- 73 days out and 54 days back. The +average daily march was about 12 miles.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the other party, composed of Professor David, Mawson, +and Mackay, had set off to determine the position of the South +Magnetic Pole. They had neither ponies nor dogs, and had therefore +to depend solely on their own powers. It seems almost incredible, +but these men succeeded in working their way on foot over sea-ice +and land-ice, cracks and crevasses, hard snow and loose snow, to the +Magnetic Pole, and making observations there. What was better still, +they all came back safe and sound. The total distance covered was +1,260 geographical miles.</p> + +<p>It must have been a proud day for the two parties of the expedition +when they met again on the deck of the Nimrod, and could tell each +other of their experiences. More than any of their predecessors, +these men had succeeded in raising the veil that lay over "Antarctica."</p> + +<p>But a little corner remained.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER II: +<a name="ii">Plan and Preparations</a></h2> + +<p>"The deity of success is a woman, and she insists on being won, +not courted. You've got to seize her and bear her off, instead of +standing under her window with a mandolin." -- Rex Beach.</p> + +<p>"The North Pole is reached."</p> + +<p>In a flash the news spread over the world. The goal of which so +many had dreamed, for which so many had laboured and suffered and +sacrificed their lives, was attained. It was in September, 1909, +that the news reached us.</p> + +<p>At the same instant I saw quite clearly that the original plan of +the Fram's third voyage -- the exploration of the North Polar basin +-- hung in the balance. If the expedition was to be saved, it was +necessary to act quickly and without hesitation. Just as rapidly as +the message had travelled over the cables I decided on my change of +front -- to turn to the right-about, and face to the South.</p> + +<p>It was true that I had announced in my plan that the Fram's third +voyage would be in every way a scientific expedition, and would have +nothing to do with record-breaking; it was also true that many of +the contributors who had so warmly supported me had done so with the +original plan before them; but in view of the altered circumstances, +and the small prospect I now had of obtaining funds for my original +plan, I considered it neither mean nor unfair to my supporters to +strike a blow that would at once put the whole enterprise on its feet, +retrieve the heavy expenses that the expedition had already incurred, +and save the contributions from being wasted.</p> + +<p>It was therefore with a clear conscience that I decided to postpone +my original plan for a year or two, in order to try in the meantime +to raise the funds that were still lacking. The North Pole, the +last problem but one of popular interest in Polar exploration, +was solved. If I was now to succeed in arousing interest in my +undertaking, there was nothing left for me but to try to solve the +last great problem -- the South Pole.</p> + +<p>I know that I have been reproached for not having at once made +the extended plan public, so that not only my supporters, but the +explorers who were preparing to visit the same regions might have +knowledge of it. I was well aware that these reproaches would come, +and had therefore carefully weighed this side of the matter. As +regards the former -- the contributors to my expedition -- my mind +was soon at rest. They were all men of position, and above discussing +the application of the sums they had dedicated to the enterprise. I +knew that I enjoyed such confidence among these people that they +would all judge the circumstances aright, and know that when the time +came their contributions would be used for the purpose for which they +were given. And I have already received countless proofs that I was +not mistaken.</p> + +<p>Nor did I feel any great scruples with regard to the other Antarctic +expeditions that were being planned at the time. I knew I should be +able to inform Captain Scott of the extension of my plans before he +left civilization, and therefore a few months sooner or later could +be of no great importance. Scott's plan and equipment were so widely +different from my own that I regarded the telegram that I sent him +later, with the information that we were bound for the Antarctic +regions, rather as a mark of courtesy than as a communication which +might cause him to alter his programme in the slightest degree. The +British expedition was designed entirely for scientific research. The +Pole was only a side-issue, whereas in my extended plan it was the +main object. On this little détour science would have to look after +itself; but of course I knew very well that we could not reach the +Pole by the route I had determined to take without enriching in a +considerable degree several branches of science.</p> + +<p>Our preparations were entirely different, and I doubt whether Captain +Scott, with his great knowledge of Antarctic exploration, would +have departed in any point from the experience he had gained and +altered his equipment in accordance with that which I found it best +to employ. For I came far short of Scott both in experience and means.</p> + +<p>As regards Lieutenant Shirase in the Kainan Maru, I understood it to +be his plan to devote his whole attention to King Edward VII. Land.</p> + +<p>After thus thoroughly considering these questions, I came to the +conclusions I have stated, and my plan was irrevocably fixed. If at +that juncture I had made my intention public, it would only have given +occasion for a lot of newspaper discussion, and possibly have ended +in the project being stifled at its birth. Everything had to be got +ready quietly and calmly. My brother, upon whose absolute silence +I could blindly rely, was the only person I let into the secret of +my change of plan, and he did me many important services during the +time when we alone shared the knowledge. Then Lieutenant Thorvald +Nilsen -- at that time first officer of the Fram, now her commander -- +returned home, and I considered it my duty to inform him immediately +of my resolve. The way in which he received it made me feel safe in +my choice of him. I saw that in him I had found not only a capable +and trustworthy man, but a good comrade as well; and this was a point +of the highest importance. If the relations between the chief and the +second in command are good, much unpleasantness and many unnecessary +worries can be avoided. Besides which, a good understanding in this +quarter gives an example to the whole ship. It was a great relief to +me when Captain Nilsen came home in January, 1910, and was able to +help -- which he did with a good will, a capability, and a reliability +that I have no words to commend.</p> + +<p>The following was the plan of the Fram's southern voyage: Departure +from Norway at latest before the middle of August. Madeira was to be +the first and only place of call. From there a course was to be made on +the best route for a sailing-ship -- for the Fram cannot be regarded +as anything else -- southward through the Atlantic, and then to the +east, passing to the south of the Cape of Good Hope and Australia, +and finally pushing through the pack and into Ross Sea about New +Year, 1911.</p> + +<p>As a base of operations I had chosen the most southerly point we could +reach with the vessel -- the Bay of Whales in the great Antarctic +Barrier. We hoped to arrive here about January 15. After having +landed the selected shore party -- about ten men -- with materials +for a house, equipment, and provisions for two years, the Fram was +to go out again and up to Buenos Aires, in order to carry out from +there an oceanographical voyage across the Atlantic to the coast of +Africa and back. In October she was to return to the Bay of Whales +and take off the shore party. So much, but no more, could be settled +beforehand. The further progress of the expedition could only be +determined later, when the work in the South was finished.</p> + +<p>My knowledge of the Ross Barrier was due to descriptions alone; +but I had so carefully studied all the literature that treats of +these regions, that, on first encountering this mighty mass of ice, +I felt as if I had known it for many years.</p> + +<p>After thorough consideration, I fixed upon the Bay of Whales as a +winter station, for several reasons. In the first place, because we +could there go farther south in the ship than at any other point +-- a whole degree farther south than Scott could hope to get in +McMurdo Sound, where he was to have his station. And this would be +of very great importance in the subsequent sledge journey toward the +Pole. Another great advantage was that we came right on to our field +of work, and could see from our hut door the conditions and surface we +should have to deal with. Besides this, I was justified in supposing +that the surface southward from this part of the Barrier would be +considerably better, and offer fewer difficulties than the piled-up +ice along the land. In addition, animal life in the Bay of Whales was, +according to the descriptions, extraordinarily rich, and offered all +the fresh meat we required in the form of seals, penguins, etc.</p> + +<p>Besides these purely technical and material advantages which the +Barrier seemed to possess as a winter station, it offered a specially +favourable site for an investigation of the meteorological conditions, +since here one would be unobstructed by land on all sides. It would be +possible to study the character of the Barrier by daily observations on +the very spot better than anywhere else. Such interesting phenomena as +the movement, feeding, and calving of this immense mass of ice could, +of course, be studied very fully at this spot.</p> + +<p>Last, but not least, there was the enormous advantage that it was +comparatively easy to reach in the vessel. No expedition had yet been +prevented from coming in here.</p> + +<p>I knew that this plan of wintering on the Barrier itself would be +exposed to severe criticism as recklessness, foolhardiness, and so +forth, for it was generally assumed that the Barrier was afloat here, +as in other places. Indeed, it was thought to be so even by those who +had themselves seen it. Shackleton's description of the conditions +at the time of his visit did not seem very promising. Mile after +mile had broken away, and he thanked God he had not made his camp +there. Although I have a very great regard for Shackleton, his work +and his experience, I believe that in this case his conclusion was +too hasty -- fortunately, I must add. For if, when Shackleton passed +the Bay of Whales on January, 24, 1908, and saw the ice of the bay in +process of breaking up and drifting out, he had waited a few hours, +or at the most a couple of days, the problem of the South Pole would +probably have been solved long before December, 1911. With his keen +sight and sound judgment, it would not have taken him long to determine +that the inner part of the bay does not consist of floating barrier, +but that the Barrier there rests upon a good, solid foundation, +probably in the form of small islands, skerries, or shoals, and from +this point he and his able companions would have disposed of the South +Polar question once for all. But circumstances willed it otherwise, +and the veil was only lifted, not torn away.</p> + +<p>I had devoted special study to this peculiar formation in the Barrier, +and had arrived at the conclusion that the inlet that exists to-day in +the Ross Barrier under the name of the Bay of Whales is nothing else +than the self-same bight that was observed by Sir James Clark Ross +-- no doubt with great changes of outline, but still the same. For +seventy years, then, this formation -- with the exception of the +pieces that had broken away -- had persisted in the same place. I +therefore concluded that it could be no accidental formation. What, +once, in the dawn of time, arrested the mighty stream of ice at this +spot and formed a lasting bay in its edge, which with few exceptions +runs in an almost straight line, was not merely a passing whim of +the fearful force that came crashing on, but something even stronger +than that -- something that was firmer than the hard ice -- namely, +the solid land. Here in this spot, then, the Barrier piled itself up +and formed the bay we now call the Bay of Whales. The observations we +made during our stay there confirm the correctness of this theory. I +therefore had no misgivings in placing our station on this part of +the Barrier.</p> + +<p>The plan of the shore party was, as soon as the hut was built and +provisions landed, to carry supplies into the field, and lay down +depots as far to the south as possible. I hoped to get such a quantity +of provisions brought down to lat. 80º S., that we should be able to +regard this latitude as the real starting-place of the actual sledge +journey to the Pole. We shall see later that this hope was more than +fulfilled, and a labour many times greater than this was performed. By +the time this depot work was accomplished winter would be before us, +and with the knowledge we had of the conditions in the Antarctic +regions, every precaution would have to be taken to meet the coldest +and probably the most stormy weather that any Polar expedition had +hitherto encountered. My object was, when winter had once set in, and +everything in the station was in good working order, to concentrate +all our forces upon the one object -- that of reaching the Pole.</p> + +<p>I intended to try to get people with me who were specially fitted for +outdoor work in the cold. Even more necessary was it to find men who +were experienced dog-drivers; I saw what a decisive bearing this would +have on the result. There are advantages and disadvantages in having +experienced people with one on an expedition like this. The advantages +are obvious. If a variety of experiences are brought together and +used with common sense, of course a great deal can be achieved. The +experience of one man will often come in opportunely where that +of another falls short. The experiences of several will supplement +each other, and form something like a perfect whole; this is what I +hoped to obtain. But there is no rose without a thorn; if it has its +advantages, it also has its drawbacks. The drawback to which one is +liable in this case is that someone or other may think he possesses +so much experience that every opinion but his own is worthless. It +is, of course, regrettable when experience takes this turn, but +with patience and common sense it can be broken of it. In any case, +the advantages are so great and predominant that I had determined +to have experienced men to the greatest extent possible. It was my +plan to devote the entire winter to working at our outfit, and to +get it as near to perfection as possible. Another thing to which we +should have to give some time was the killing of a sufficient number +of seals to provide fresh meat both for ourselves and our dogs for +the whole time. Scurvy, the worst enemy of Polar expeditions, must +be kept off at all costs, and to achieve this it was my intention +to use fresh meat every day. It proved easy to carry out this rule, +since everyone, without exception, preferred seal meat to tinned +foods. And when spring came I hoped that my companions and I would +be ready, fit and well, with an outfit complete in every way.</p> + +<p>The plan was to leave the station as early in the spring as +possible. If we had set out to capture this record, we must at any +cost get there first. Everything must be staked upon this. From the +very moment when I had formed the plan, I had made up my mind that +our course from the Bay of Whales must be set due south, and follow +the same meridian, if possible, right up to the Pole. The effect +of this would be that we should traverse an entirely new region, +and gain other results besides beating the record.</p> + +<p>I was greatly astonished to hear, on my return from the South, that +some people had actually believed we had set our course from the Bay +of Whales for Beardmore Glacier -- Shackleton's route -- and followed +it to the south. Let me hasten to assure them that this idea never +for a single instant crossed my mind when I made the plan. Scott +had announced that he was going to take Shackleton's route, and that +decided the matter. During our long stay at Framheim not one of us +ever hinted at the possibility of such a course. Without discussion +Scott's route was declared out of bounds.</p> + +<p>No; due south was our way, and the country would have to be difficult +indeed to stop our getting on to the plateau. Our plan was to go +south, and not to leave the meridian unless we were forced to do so +by insuperable difficulties. I foresaw, of course, that there would +be some who would attack me and accuse me of "shabby rivalry," etc., +and they would perhaps have had some shadow of justification if we had +really thought of taking Captain Scott's route. But it never occurred +to us for a moment. Our starting-point lay 350 geographical miles from +Scott's winter quarters in McMurdo Sound, so there could be no question +of encroaching upon his sphere of action. Moreover, Professor Nansen, +in his direct and convincing way, has put an end once for all to this +twaddle, so that I need not dwell upon it any longer.</p> + +<p>I worked out the plan, as here given, at my home on Bundefjord, near +Christiania, in September, 1909, and as it was laid, so was it carried +out to the last detail. That my estimate of the time it would take +was not so very far out is proved by the final sentence of the plan: +"Thus we shall be back from the Polar journey on January 25." It was +on January 25, 1912, that we came into Framheim after our successful +journey to the Pole.</p> + +<p>This was not the only time our calculations proved correct; Captain +Nilsen showed himself to be a veritable magician in this way. While I +contented myself with reckoning dates, he did not hesitate to go into +hours. He calculated that we should reach the Barrier on January 15, +1911; this is a distance of 16,000 geographical miles from Norway. We +were at the Barrier on January 14, one day before the time. There +was not much wrong with that estimate.</p> + +<p>In accordance with the Storthing's resolution of February 9, 1909, +the Fram was lent for the use of the expedition, and a sum of 75,000 +kroner (4,132 pounds sterling) was voted for repairs and necessary +alterations.</p> + +<p>The provisions were chosen with the greatest care, and packed with +every precaution. All groceries were soldered in tin boxes, and then +enclosed in strong wooden cases. The packing of tinned provisions +is of enormous importance to a Polar expedition; it is impossible to +give too much attention to this part of the supplies. Any carelessness, +any perfunctory packing on the part of the factory, will as a rule lead +to scurvy. It is an interesting fact that on the four Norwegian Polar +expeditions -- the three voyages of the Fram and the Gjöa's voyage -- +not a single case of scurvy occurred. This is good evidence of the +care with which these expeditions were provisioned.</p> + +<p>In this matter we owe a deep debt of gratitude above all to Professor +Sophus Torup, who has always been the supervising authority in the +matter of provisioning, this time as well as on the former occasions.</p> + +<p>Great praise is also due to the factories that supplied our tinned +goods. By their excellent and conscientious work they deserved well +of the expedition. In this case a part of the supplies was entrusted +to a Stavanger factory, which, in addition to the goods supplied to +order, with great generosity placed at the disposal of the expedition +provisions to the value of 2,000 kroner (£110). The other half of the +tinned foods required was ordered from a firm at Moss. The manager +of this firm undertook at the same time to prepare the necessary +pemmican for men and dogs, and executed this commission in a way that +I cannot sufficiently praise. Thanks to this excellent preparation, +the health both of men and dogs on the journey to the Pole was always +remarkably good. The pemmican we took was essentially different from +that which former expeditions had used. Previously the pemmican had +contained nothing but the desired mixture of dried meat and lard; +ours had, besides these, vegetables and oatmeal, an addition which +greatly improves its flavour, and, as far as we could judge, makes +it easier to digest.</p> + +<p>This kind of pemmican was first produced for the use of the Norwegian +Army; it was intended to take the place of the "emergency ration." The +experiment was not concluded at the time the expedition left, but +it may be hoped that the result has proved satisfactory. A more +stimulating, nourishing, and appetizing food, it would be impossible +to find.</p> + +<p>But besides the pemmican for ourselves, that for our dogs was equally +important, for they are just as liable to be attacked by scurvy as +we men. The same care had therefore to be devoted to the preparation +of their food. We obtained from Moss two kinds of pemmican, one made +with fish and the other with meat. Both kinds contained, besides the +dried fish (or meat) and lard, a certain proportion of dried milk +and middlings. Both kinds were equally excellent, and the dogs were +always in splendid condition. The pemmican was divided into rations of +1 pound 1.5 ounces, and could be served out to the dogs as it was. But +before we should be able to use this pemmican we had a five months' +voyage before us, and for this part of the expedition I had to look +for a reliable supply of dried fish. This I found through the agent of +the expedition at Tromsö, Mr. Fritz Zappfe. Two well-known firms also +placed large quantities of the best dried fish at my disposal. With +all this excellent fish and some barrels of lard we succeeded in +bringing our dogs through in the best of condition.</p> + +<p>One of the most important of our preparations was to find good +dogs. As I have said, I had to act with decision and promptitude if +I was to succeed in getting everything in order. The day after my +decision was made, therefore, I was on my way to Copenhagen, where +the Inspectors for Greenland, Messrs. Daugaard-Jensen and Bentzen, +were to be found at that moment. The director of the Royal Greenland +Trading Company, Mr. Rydberg, showed, as before, the most friendly +interest in my undertaking, and gave the inspectors a free hand. I then +negotiated with these gentlemen, and they undertook to provide 100 +of the finest Greenland dogs and to deliver them in Norway in July, +1910. The dog question was thus as good as solved, since the choice +was placed in the most expert hands. I was personally acquainted +with Inspector Daugaard-Jensen from former dealings with him, and +knew that whatever he undertook would be performed with the greatest +conscientiousness. The administration of the Royal Greenland Trading +Company gave permission for the dogs to be conveyed free of charge +on board the Hans Egede and delivered at Christiansand.</p> + +<p>Before I proceed to our further equipment, I must say a few more +words about the dogs. The greatest difference between Scott's and +my equipment lay undoubtedly in our choice of draught animals. We +had heard that Scott, relying on his own experience, and that of +Shackleton, had come to the conclusion that Manchurian ponies were +superior to dogs on the Barrier. Among those who were acquainted with +the Eskimo dog, I do not suppose I was the only one who was startled +on first hearing this. Afterwards, as I read the different narratives +and was able to form an accurate opinion of the conditions of surface +and going, my astonishment became even greater. Although I had never +seen this part of the Antarctic regions, I was not long in forming +an opinion diametrically opposed to that of Shackleton and Scott, for +the conditions both of going and surface were precisely what one would +desire for sledging with Eskimo dogs, to judge from the descriptions +of these explorers. If Peary could make a record trip on the Arctic +ice with dogs, one ought, surely, with equally good tackle, to be +able to beat Peary's record on the splendidly even surface of the +Barrier. There must be some misunderstanding or other at the bottom +of the Englishmen's estimate of the Eskimo dog's utility in the Polar +regions. Can it be that the dog has not understood his master? Or +is it the master who has not understood his dog? The right footing +must be established from the outset; the dog must understand that +he has to obey in everything, and the master must know how to make +himself respected. If obedience is once established, I am convinced +that the dog will be superior to all other draught animals over these +long distances.</p> + +<p>Another very important reason for using the dog is that this small +creature can much more easily cross the numerous slight snow-bridges +that are not to be avoided on the Barrier and on the glaciers. If a +dog falls into a crevasse there is no great harm done; a tug at his +harness and he is out again; but it is another matter with a pony. This +comparatively large and heavy animal of course falls through far more +easily, and if this happens, it is a long and stiff job to get the +beast hauled up again -- unless, indeed, the traces have broken and +the pony lies at the bottom of a crevasse 1,000 feet deep.</p> + +<p>And then there is the obvious advantage that dog can be fed on +dog. One can reduce one's pack little by little, slaughtering the +feebler ones and feeding the chosen with them. In this way they get +fresh meat. Our dogs lived on dog's flesh and pemmican the whole way, +and this enabled them to do splendid work.</p> + +<p>And if we ourselves wanted a piece of fresh meat we could cut off a +delicate little fillet; it tasted to us as good as the best beef. The +dogs do not object at all; as long as they get their share they do not +mind what part of their comrade's carcass it comes from. All that was +left after one of these canine meals was the teeth of the victim -- +and if it had been a really hard day, these also disappeared.</p> + +<p>If we take a step farther, from the Barrier to the plateau, it would +seem that every doubt of the dog's superiority must disappear. Not +only can one get the dogs up over the huge glaciers that lead to the +plateau, but one can make full use of them the whole way. Ponies, on +the other hand, have to be left at the foot of the glacier, while the +men themselves have the doubtful pleasure of acting as ponies. As I +understand Shackleton's account, there can be no question of hauling +the ponies over the steep and crevassed glaciers. It must be rather +hard to have to abandon one's motive power voluntarily when only a +quarter of the distance has been covered. I for my part prefer to +use it all the way.</p> + +<p>From the very beginning I saw that the first part of our expedition, +from Norway to the Barrier, would be the most dangerous section. If we +could only reach the Barrier with our dogs safe and well, the future +would be bright enough. Fortunately all my comrades took the same view +of the matter, and with their cooperation we succeeded not only in +bringing the dogs safely to our field of operations, but in landing +them in far better condition than when we received them. Their number +was also considerably increased on the way, which seems to be another +proof of a flourishing state of things. To protect them against damp +and heat we laid a loose deck of planed boards about 3 inches above +the fixed deck, an arrangement by which all the rain and spray ran +underneath the dogs. In this way we kept them out of the water, which +must always be running from side to side on the deck of a deep-laden +vessel on her way to the Antarctic Ocean. Going through the tropics +this loose deck did double service. It always afforded a somewhat cool +surface, as there was a fresh current of air between the two decks. The +main deck, which was black with tar, would have been unbearably hot +for the animals; the false deck was high, and kept fairly white during +the whole voyage. We carried awnings in addition, chiefly on account +of the dogs. These awnings could be stretched over the whole vessel +and give the dogs constant protection from the burning sun.</p> + +<p>I still cannot help smiling when I think of the compassionate voices +that were raised here and there -- and even made their way into +print -- about the "cruelty to animals" on board the Fram. Presumably +these cries came from tender-hearted individuals who themselves kept +watch-dogs tied up.</p> + +<p>Besides our four-footed companions, we took with us a two-footed one, +not so much on account of the serious work in the Polar regions as for +pleasant entertainment on the way. This was our canary "Fridtjof." It +was one of the many presents made to the expedition, and not the +least welcome of them. It began to sing as soon as it came on board, +and has now kept it going on two circumnavigations through the most +inhospitable waters of the earth. It probably holds the record as a +Polar traveller among its kind.</p> + +<p>Later on we had a considerable collection of various families: pigs, +fowls, sheep, cats, and -- rats. Yes, unfortunately, we knew what it +was to have rats on board, the most repulsive of all creatures, and +the worst vermin I know of. But we have declared war against them, +and off they shall go before the Fram starts on her next voyage. We +got them in Buenos Aires, and the best thing will be to bury them in +their native land.</p> + +<p>On account of the rather straitened circumstances the expedition had +to contend with, I had to look twice at every shilling before I spent +it. Articles of clothing are an important factor in a Polar expedition, +and I consider it necessary that the expedition should provide each +of its members with the actual "Polar clothing." If one left this +part of the equipment to each individual, I am afraid things would +look badly before the journey was done. I must admit that there was +some temptation to do this. It would have been very much cheaper if +I had simply given each man a list of what clothes he was required +to provide for himself. But by so doing I should have missed the +opportunity of personally supervising the quality of the clothing to +the extent I desired.</p> + +<p>It was not an outfit that cut a dash by its appearance, but it was warm +and strong. From the commissariat stores at Horten I obtained many +excellent articles. I owe Captain Pedersen, the present chief of the +Commissariat Department, my heartiest thanks for the courtesy he always +showed me when I came to get things out of him. Through him I had about +200 blankets served out to me. Now, the reader must not imagine a bed +and bedding, such as he may see exhibited in the windows of furniture +shops, with thick, white blankets, so delicate that in spite of their +thickness they look as if they might float away of their own accord, +so light and fine do they appear. It was not blankets like these +that Captain Pedersen gave us; we should not have known what to do +with them if he had. The blankets the commissariat gave us were of an +entirely different sort. As to their colour -- well, I can only call +it indeterminable -- and they did not give one the impression that +they would float away either, if one let go of them. No, they would +keep on the ground right enough; they were felted and pressed together +into a thick, hard mass. From the dawn of time they had served our +brave warriors at sea, and it is by no means impossible that some of +them had gruesome stories to tell of the days of Tordenskjold. The +first thing I did, on obtaining possession of these treasures, was +to get them into the dyeing-vat. They were unrecognizable when I +got them back -- in ultramarine blue, or whatever it was called. The +metamorphosis was complete: their warlike past was wiped out.</p> + +<p>My intention was to have these two hundred blankets made into Polar +clothing, and I took counsel with myself how I might get this done. To +disclose the origin of the stuff would be an unfortunate policy. No +tailor in the world would make clothes out of old blankets, I was +pretty sure of that. I had to hit upon some stratagem. I heard of +a man who was a capable worker at his trade, and asked him to come +and see me. My office looked exactly like a woollen warehouse, with +blankets everywhere. The tailor arrived. "Was that the stuff?" "Yes, +that was it. Just imported from abroad. A great bargain. A lot of +samples dirt cheap." I had put on my most innocent and unconcerned +expression. I saw the tailor glance at me sideways; I suppose he +thought the samples were rather large. "A closely woven stuff," +said he, holding it up to the light. "I could almost swear it was +'felted.' " We went carefully through every single sample, and took +the number. It was a long and tedious business, and I was glad when +I saw that at last we were nearing the end. Over in a corner there +lay a few more; we had reached the one hundred and ninety-third, so +there could not be many in the pile. I was occupied with something +else, and the tailor went through the remainder by himself. I was +just congratulating myself on the apparently fortunate result of the +morning's work when I was startled by an exclamation from the man +in the corner. It sounded like the bellow of a mad bull. Alas! there +stood the tailor enveloped in ultramarine, and swinging over his head +a blanket, the couleur changeante of which left no doubt as to the +origin of the "directly imported" goods. With a look of thunder the man +quitted me, and I sank in black despair. I never saw him again. The +fact was that in my hurry I had forgotten the sample blanket that +Captain Pedersen had sent me. That was the cause of the catastrophe.</p> + +<p>Well, I finally succeeded in getting the work executed, and it is +certain that no expedition has ever had warmer and stronger clothing +than this. It was in great favour on board.</p> + +<p>I also thought it best to provide good oilskins, and especially +good sea-boots for every man. The sea-boots were therefore made to +measure, and of the very best material. I had them made by the firm +I have always regarded as the best in that branch. How, then, shall +I describe our grief when, on the day we were to wear our beautiful +sea-boots, we discovered that most of them were useless? Some of the +men could dance a hornpipe in theirs without taking the boots off +the deck. Others, by exerting all their strength, could not squeeze +their foot through the narrow way and reach paradise. The leg was so +narrow that even the most delicate little foot could not get through +it, and to make up for this the foot of the boot was so huge that +it could comfortably accommodate twice as much as its owner could +show. Very few were able to wear their boots. We tried changing, +but that was no use; the boots were not made for any creatures of +this planet. But sailors are sailors wherever they may be; it is not +easy to beat them. Most of them knew the proverb that one pair of +boots that fit is better than ten pairs that you can't put on, and +had brought their own with them. And so we got out of that difficulty.</p> + +<p>We took three sets of linen underclothing for every man, to wear +in the warm regions. This part of the equipment was left to each +individual; most men possess a few old shirts, and not much more is +wanted through the tropics. For the cold regions there were two sets +of extra thick woollen underclothing, two thick hand-knitted woollen +jerseys, six pairs of knitted stockings, Iceland and other lighter +jackets, socks and stockings from the penitentiary.</p> + +<p>Besides these we had a quantity of clothing from the army depots. I +owe many thanks to General Keilhau for the kind way in which he fell +in with all my wishes. From this quarter we obtained outer clothing for +both cold and warm climates, underclothes, boots, shoes, wind-clothing, +and cloths of different kinds.</p> + +<p>As the last item of our personal equipment I may mention that each +man had a suit of sealskin from Greenland. Then there were such things +as darning-wool, sewing-yarn, needles of all possible sizes, buttons, +scissors, tapes -- broad and narrow, black and white, blue and red. I +may safely assert that nothing was forgotten; we were well and amply +equipped in every way.</p> + +<p>Another side of our preparations which claimed some attention was +the fitting up of the quarters we were to inhabit, the saloons and +cabins. What an immense difference it makes if one lives in comfortable +surroundings. For my part, I can do twice the amount of work when I +see tidiness and comfort around me. The saloons on the Fram were very +handsomely and tastefully fitted. Here we owe, in the first place, our +respectful thanks to King Haakon and Queen Maud for the photographs +they presented to us; they were the most precious of our gifts. The +ladies of Horten gave us a number of pretty things for decorating the +cabins, and they will no doubt be glad to hear of the admiration they +aroused wherever we went. "Is this really a Polar ship?" people asked; +"we expected to see nothing but wooden benches and bare walls." And +they began to talk about "boudoirs" and things of that sort. Besides +splendid embroideries, our walls were decorated with the most wonderful +photographs; it would have rejoiced the giver of these to hear all +the words of praise that have been bestowed upon them.</p> + +<p>The sleeping quarters I left to individual taste: every man could +take a bit of his home in his own little compartment. The bedclothes +came from the naval factory at Horten; they were first-class work, +like everything else that came from there. We owe our best thanks to +the giver of the soft blankets that have so often been our joy and +put warmth into us after a bitter day; they came from a woollen mill +at Trondhjem.</p> + +<p>I must also mention our paper-supply, which was in all respects as fine +and elegant as it could possibly be: the most exquisite notepaper, +stamped with a picture of the Fram and the name of the expedition, +in large and small size, broad and narrow, old style and new style -- +every kind of notepaper, in fact. Of pens and penholders, pencils, +black and coloured, india-rubber, Indian ink, drawing-pins and +other kinds of pins, ink and ink-powder, white chalk and red chalk, +gum arabic and other gums, date-holders and almanacs, ship's logs +and private diaries, notebooks and sledging diaries, and many other +things of the same sort, we have such a stock that we shall be able to +circumnavigate the earth several times more before running short. This +gift does honour to the firm which sent it; every time I have sent +a letter or written in my diary, I have had a grateful thought for +the givers.</p> + +<p>From one of the largest houses in Christiania we had a complete set +of kitchen utensils and breakfast and dinner services, all of the +best kind. The cups, plates, knives, forks, spoons, jugs, glasses, +etc., were all marked with the ship's name.</p> + +<p>We carried an extraordinarily copious library; presents of books were +showered upon us in great quantities. I suppose the Fram's library +at the present moment contains at least 3,000 volumes.</p> + +<p>For our entertainment we also had a good many different games. One +of these became our favourite pastime in leisure evenings down in +the South. Packs of cards we had by the dozen, and many of them have +already been well used. A gramophone with a large supply of records +was, I think, our best friend. Of musical instruments we had a piano, +a violin, a flute, mandolins, not forgetting a mouth-organ and an +accordion. All the publishers had been kind enough to send us music, +so that we could cultivate this art as much as we wished.</p> + +<p>Christmas presents streamed in from all sides; I suppose we had about +five hundred on board. Christmas-trees and decorations for them, +with many other things to amuse us at Christmas, were sent with us +by friends and acquaintances. People have indeed been kind to us, +and I can assure the givers that all their presents have been, and +are still, much appreciated.</p> + +<p>We were well supplied with wines and spirits, thanks to one of the +largest firms of wine-merchants in Christiania. An occasional glass of +wine or a tot of spirits were things that we all, without exception, +were very glad of. The question of alcohol on Polar expeditions has +often been discussed. Personally, I regard alcohol, used in moderation, +as a medicine in the Polar regions -- I mean, of course, so long as +one is in winter quarters. It is another matter on sledge journeys: +there we all know from experience that alcohol must be banished -- +not because a drink of spirits can do any harm, but on account of +the weight and space. On sledging journeys one has, of course, to +save weight as much as possible, and to take only what is strictly +necessary; and I do not include alcohol under the head of strictly +necessary things. Nor was it only in winter quarters that we had use +for alcohol, but also on the long, monotonous voyage through raw, cold, +and stormy regions. A tot of spirits is often a very good thing when +one goes below after a bitter watch on deck and is just turning in. A +total abstainer will no doubt turn up his nose and ask whether a cup +of good warm coffee would not do as well. For my part, I think the +quantity of coffee people pour into themselves at such times is far +more harmful than a little Lysholmer snaps. And think of the important +part a glass of wine or toddy plays in social gatherings on such a +voyage. Two men who have fallen out a little in the course of the week +are reconciled at once by the scent of rum; the past is forgotten, +and they start afresh in friendly co-operation. Take alcohol away from +these little festivities, and you will soon see the difference. It is +a sad thing, someone will say, that men absolutely must have alcohol to +put them in a good humour -- and I am quite ready to agree. But seeing +that our nature is what it is, we must try to make the best of it. It +seems as though we civilized human beings must have stimulating drinks, +and that being so, we have to follow our own convictions. I am for a +glass of toddy. Let who will eat plum-cake and swill hot coffee -- +heartburn and other troubles are often the result of this kind of +refreshment. A little toddy doesn't hurt anybody.</p> + +<p>The consumption of alcohol on the Fram's third voyage was as follows: +One dram and fifteen drops at dinner on Wednesdays and Sundays, +and a glass of toddy on Saturday evenings. On holidays there was an +additional allowance.</p> + +<p>We were all well supplied with tobacco and cigars from various firms +at home and abroad. We had enough cigars to allow us one each on +Saturday evenings and after dinner on Sundays.</p> + +<p>Two Christiania manufacturers sent us their finest bonbons and drops, +and a foreign firm gave us "Gala Peter," so that it was no rare thing +to see the Polar explorers helping themselves to a sweetmeat or a +piece of chocolate. An establishment at Drammen gave us as much fruit +syrup as we could drink, and if the giver only knew how many times +we blessed the excellent product he supplied, I am sure he would be +pleased. On the homeward march from the Pole we looked forward every +day to getting nearer to our supply of syrup.</p> + +<p>From three different firms in Christiania we received all our +requirements in the way of cheese, biscuits, tea, sugar, and +coffee. The packing of the last-named was so efficient that, although +the coffee was roasted, it is still as fresh and aromatic as the day +it left the warehouse. Another firm sent us soap enough for five +years, and one uses a good deal of that commodity even on a Polar +voyage. A man in Christiania had seen to the care of our skin, hair, +and teeth, and it is not his fault if we have not delicate skins, +abundant growth of hair, and teeth like pearls, for the outfit was +certainly complete enough.</p> + +<p>An important item of the equipment is the medical department, and +here my advisers were Dr. Jacob Roll and Dr. Holth; therefore nothing +was wanting. A chemist in Christiania supplied all the necessary +medicines as a contribution, carefully chosen, and beautifully +arranged. Unfortunately no doctor accompanied the expedition, so that +I was obliged to take all the responsibility myself.</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Gjertsen, who had a pronounced aptitude both for drawing +teeth and amputating legs, went through a "lightning course" at the +hospital and the dental hospital. He clearly showed that much may be +learnt in a short time by giving one's mind to it. With surprising +rapidity and apparent confidence Lieutenant Gjertsen disposed of the +most complicated cases -- whether invariably to the patient's advantage +is another question, which I shall leave undecided. He drew teeth +with a dexterity that strongly reminded one of the conjurer's art; +one moment he showed an empty pair of forceps, the next there was a +big molar in their grip. The yells one heard while the operation was +in progress seemed to indicate that it was not entirely painless.</p> + +<p>A match factory gave us all the safety matches we wanted. They were +packed so securely that we could quite well have towed the cases +after us in the sea all the way, and found the matches perfectly dry +on arrival. We had a quantity of ammunition and explosives. As the +whole of the lower hold was full of petroleum, the Fram had a rather +dangerous cargo on board. We therefore took all possible precautions +against fire; extinguishing apparatus was fitted in every cabin and +wherever practicable, and pumps with hose were always in readiness +on deck.</p> + +<p>The necessary ice-tools, such as saws from 2 to 6 metres long, +ice-drills, etc., were not forgotten.</p> + +<p>We had a number of scientific instruments with us. Professors Nansen +and Helland-Hansen had devoted many an hour to our oceanographical +equipment, which was therefore a model of what such an equipment +should be. Lieutenants Prestrud and Gjertsen had both gone through the +necessary course in oceanography under Helland-Hansen at the Bergen +biological station. I myself had spent a summer there, and taken part +in one of the oceanographical courses. Professor Helland-Hansen was a +brilliant teacher; I am afraid I cannot assert that I was an equally +brilliant pupil.</p> + +<p>Professor Mohn had given us a complete meteorological outfit. Among the +instruments belonging to the Fram I may mention a pendulum apparatus, +an excellent astronomical theodolite, and a sextant. Lieutenant +Prestrud studied the use of the pendulum apparatus under Professor +Schiotz and the use of the astronomical theodolite under Professor +Geelmuyden. We had in addition several sextants and artificial +horizons, both glass and mercury. We had binoculars of all sizes, +from the largest to the smallest.</p> + +<p>So far I have been dealing with our general outfit, and shall now pass +to the special equipment of the shore party. The hut we took out was +built on my property on Bundefjord, so that I was able to watch the +work as it progressed. It was built by the brothers Hans and Jörgen +Stubberud, and was throughout a splendid piece of work, which did +honour to both the brothers. The materials proved excellent in every +way. The hut was 26 feet long by 13 feet wide; its height from the +floor to the ridge of the roof was about 12 feet. It was built as an +ordinary Norwegian house, with pointed gable, and had two rooms. One +of these was 19 1/2 feet long, and was to serve as our dormitory, +dining-room, and sitting-room; the other room was 6 1/2 feet long, +and was to be Lindström's kitchen. From the kitchen a double trap-door +led to the loft, where we intended to keep a quantity of provisions and +outfit. The walls consisted of 3-inch planks, with air space between; +panels outside and inside, with air space between them and the plank +walling. For insulation we used cellulose pulp. The floor and the +ceiling between the rooms and the loft were double, while the upper +roof was single. The doors were extraordinarily thick and strong, and +fitted into oblique grooves, so that they closed very tightly. There +were two windows -- a triple one in the end wall of the main room, +and a double one in the kitchen. For the covering of the roof we +took out roofing-paper, and for the floor linoleum. In the main room +there were two air-pipes, one to admit fresh air, the other for the +exhaust. There were bunks for ten men in two stages, six on one wall +and four on the other. The furniture of the room consisted of a table, +a stool for each man, and a Lux lamp.</p> + +<p>One half of the kitchen was occupied by the range, the other by shelves +and cooking utensils. The hut was tarred several times, and every part +was carefully marked, so that it could easily be set up. To fasten it +to the ground and prevent the Antarctic storms from blowing it away I +had strong eyebolts screwed into each end of the roof-ridge and the +four corners of the roof; we carried six strong eyebolts, a metre +long, to be rammed into the barrier; between these bolts and those +on the hut, steel wires were to be stretched, which could be drawn +quite tight. We also had two spare cables, which could be stretched +over the roof if the gales were too severe. The two ventilating pipes +and the chimney were secured outside with strong stays.</p> + +<p>As will be seen, every precaution was taken to make the hut warm and +comfortable, and to hold it down on the ground. We also took on board +a quantity of loose timber, boards and planks.</p> + +<p>Besides the hut we took with us fifteen tents for sixteen men each. Ten +of these were old, but good; they were served out to us from the naval +stores; the other five were new, and we bought them from the army +depots. It was our intention to use the tents as temporary houses; +they were easily and quickly set up, and were strong and warm. On the +voyage to the South Rönne sewed new floors of good, strong canvas to +the five new tents.</p> + +<p>All cases of provisions that were intended for winter quarters were +marked and stowed separately in the hold in such a way that they +could be put out on to the ice at once.</p> + +<p>We had ten sledges made by a firm of sporting outfitters in +Christiania. They were built like the old Nansen sledges, but rather +broader, and were 12 feet long. The runners were of the best American +hickory, shod with steel. The other parts were of good, tough Norwegian +ash. To each sledge belonged a pair of spare runners, which could +easily be fitted underneath by means of clamps, and as easily removed +when not required. The steel shoeing of the runners was well coated +with red lead, and the spare runners with tar. These sledges were +extremely strongly built, and could stand all kinds of work on every +sort of surface. At that time I did not know the conditions on the +Barrier as I afterwards came to know them. Of course, these sledges +were very heavy.</p> + +<p>We took twenty pairs of ski, all of the finest hickory; they were +8 feet long, and proportionately narrow. I chose them of this length +with a view to being able to cross the numerous cracks in the glaciers; +the greater the surface over which the weight could be distributed, the +better prospect we should have of slipping over the snow-bridges. We +had forty ski-poles, with ebonite points. The ski-bindings were a +combination of the Huitfeldt and the Höyer Ellefsen bindings. We also +had quantities of loose straps.</p> + +<p>We had six three-man tents, all made in the navy workshops. The +workmanship could not have been better; they were the strongest and +most practical tents that have ever been used. They were made of the +closest canvas, with the floor in one piece. One man was sufficient to +set up the tent in the stiffest breeze; I have come to the conclusion +that the fewer poles a tent has, the easier it is to set up, which +seems quite natural. These tents have only one pole. How often one +reads in narratives of Polar travel that it took such and such a time +-- often hours -- to set up the tent, and then, when at last it was +up, one lay expecting it to be blown down at any moment. There was +no question of this with our tents. They were up in a twinkling, +and stood against all kinds of wind; we could lie securely in our +sleeping-bags, and let it blow.</p> + +<p>The arrangement of the door was on the usual sack principle, which is +now recognized as the only serviceable one for the Polar regions. The +sack patent is quite simple, like all patents that are any good. You +cut an opening in the tent of the size you wish; then you take a sack, +which you leave open at both ends, and sew one end fast round the +opening of the tent. The funnel formed by the open sack is then the +entrance. When you have come in, you gather up the open end of the +funnel or sack, and tie it together. Not a particle of snow can get +into a tent with the floor sewed on and an entrance of this kind, +even in the worst storm.</p> + +<p>The cases for sledging provisions were made of fairly thin, tough ash, +which came from the estate of Palsgaard in Jutland, and the material +did all it promised. These cases were 1 foot square and 15 1/2 inches +high. They had only a little round opening on the top, closed with an +aluminium lid, which fitted exactly like the lid of a milk-can. Large +lids weaken the cases, and I had therefore chosen this form. We did +not have to throw off the lashing of the case to get the lid off, +and this is a very great advantage; we could always get at it. A case +with a large lid, covered by the lashing, gives constant trouble; +the whole lashing has to be undone for every little thing one wants +out of the case. This is not always convenient; if one is tired and +slack, it may sometimes happen that one will put off till to-morrow +what ought to be done to-day, especially when it is bitterly cold. The +handier one's sledging outfit, the sooner one gets into the tent and +to rest, and that is no small consideration on a long journey.</p> + +<p>Our outfit of clothing was abundant and more complete, I suppose, than +that of any former Polar expedition. We may divide it into two classes, +the outfit for specially low temperatures and that for more moderate +temperatures. It must be remembered that no one had yet wintered on +the Barrier, so we had to be prepared for anything. In order to be +able to grapple with any degree of cold, we were supplied with the +richest assortment of reindeer-skin clothing; we had it specially +thick, medium, and quite light. It took a long time to get these +skin clothes prepared. First the reindeer-skins had to be bought +in a raw state, and this was done for me by Mr. Zappfe at Tromsö, +Karasjok, and Kaatokeino. Let me take the opportunity of thanking +this man for the many and great services he has rendered me, not +only during my preparations for the third voyage of the Fram, but +in the fitting out of the Gjöa expedition as well. With his help +I have succeeded in obtaining things that I should otherwise never +have been able to get. He shrank from no amount of work, but went +on till he had found what I wanted. This time he procured nearly +two hundred and fifty good reindeer-skins, dressed by the Lapps, +and sent them to Christiania. Here I had great trouble in finding +a man who could sew skins, but at last I found one. We then went +to work to make clothes after the pattern of the Netchelli Eskimo, +and the sewing went on early and late -- thick anoraks and thin ones, +heavy breeches and light, winter stockings and summer stockings. We +also had a dozen thin sleeping-bags, which I thought of using inside +the big thick ones if the cold should be too severe. Everything was +finished, but not until the last moment. The outer sleeping-bags were +made by Mr. Brandt, furrier, of Bergen, and they were so excellent, +both in material and making-up, that no one in the world could +have done better; it was a model piece of work. To save this outer +sleeping-bag, we had it provided with a cover of the lightest canvas, +which was a good deal longer than the bag itself. It was easy to tie +the end of the cover together like the mouth of the sack, and this kept +the snow out of the bag during the day's march. In this way we always +kept ourselves free from the annoyance of drifting snow. We attached +great importance to having the bags made of the very best sort of skin, +and took care that the thin skin of the belly was removed. I have seen +sleeping-bags of the finest reindeer-skin spoilt in a comparatively +short time if they contained a few patches of this thin skin, as +of course the cold penetrates more easily through the thin skin, +and gives rise to dampness in the form of rime on meeting the warmth +of the body. These thin patches remain damp whenever one is in the +bag, and in a short time they lose their hair. The damp spreads, +like decay in wood, and continually attacks the surrounding skin, +with the result that one fine day you find yourself with a hairless +sleeping-bag. One cannot be too careful in the choice of skins. For +the sake of economy, the makers of reindeer-skin sleeping-bags are in +the habit of sewing them in such a way that the direction of the hair +is towards the opening of the bag. Of course this suits the shape of +the skins best, but it does not suit the man who is going to use the +bag. For it is no easy matter to crawl into a sleeping-bag which is +only just wide enough to allow one to get in, and if the way of the +hair is against one it is doubly difficult. I had them all made as +one-man bags, with lacing round the neck; this did not, of course, +meet with the approval of all, as will be seen later. The upper +part of this thick sleeping-bag was made of thinner reindeer-skin, +so that we might be able to tie it closely round the neck; the thick +skin will not draw so well and fit so closely as the thin.</p> + +<p>Our clothing in moderate temperatures consisted of thick woollen +underclothing and Burberry windproof overalls. This underclothing +was specially designed for the purpose; I had myself watched the +preparation of the material, and knew that it contained nothing +but pure wool. We had overalls of two different materials: Burberry +"gabardine" and the ordinary green kind that is used in Norway in the +winter. For sledge journeys, where one has to save weight, and to work +in loose, easy garments, I must unhesitatingly recommend Burberry. It +is extraordinarily light and strong, and keeps the wind completely +out. For hard work I prefer the green kind. It keeps out the wind +equally well, but is heavier and more bulky, and less comfortable +to wear on a long march. Our Burberry wind-clothes were made in the +form of anorak (blouse) and trousers, both very roomy. The others +consisted of trousers and jacket with hood.</p> + +<p>Our mits were for the most part such as one can buy in any shop; we +wanted nothing else in and around winter quarters. Outside the mits +we wore an outer covering of windproof material, so as not to wear +them out too quickly. These mits are not very strong, though they are +good and warm. Besides these, we had ten pairs of ordinary kid mits, +which were bought at a glove-shop in Christiania, and were practically +impossible to wear out. I wore mine from Framheim to the Pole and back +again, and afterwards on the voyage to Tasmania. The lining, of course, +was torn in places, but the seams of the mits were just as perfect as +the day I bought them. Taking into consideration the fact that I went +on ski the whole way and used two poles, it will be understood that +the mits were strongly made. We also had a number of woollen gloves, +which, curiously enough, the others greatly prized. For myself, I was +never able to wear such things; they simply freeze the fingers off me.</p> + +<p>But most important of all is the covering of the feet, for the feet +are the most exposed members and the most difficult to protect. One +can look after the hands; if they grow cold it is easy to beat them +into warmth again. Not so with the feet; they are covered up in the +morning, and this is a sufficiently troublesome piece of work to make +one disinclined to undo it again until one is turning in. They cannot +be seen in the course of the day, and one has to depend entirely on +feeling; but feeling in this case often plays curious tricks. How +often has it happened that men have had their feet +frozen off without knowing it! For if they had known it, they could not +possibly have let it go so far. The fact is that in this case sensation +is a somewhat doubtful guide, for the feet lose all sensation. It +is true that there is a transitional stage, when one feels the +cold smarting in one's toes, and tries to get rid of it by stamping +the feet. As a rule this is successful; the warmth returns, or the +circulation is restored; but it occasionally happens that sensation is +lost at the very moment when these precautions are taken. And then one +must be an old hand to know what has happened. Many men conclude that, +as they no longer feel the unpleasant smarting sensation, all is well; +and at the evening inspection a frozen foot of tallow-like appearance +presents itself. An event of this kind may ruin the most elaborately +prepared enterprise, and it is therefore advisable in the matter of +feet to carry one's caution to lengths which may seem ridiculous.</p> + +<p>Now, it is a fact that if one can wear soft foot-gear exclusively +the risk of frost-bite is far less than if one is compelled to wear +stiff boots; in soft foot-gear, of course, the foot can move far more +easily and keep warm. But we were to take ski and to get full use +out of them, so that in any case we had to have a stiff sole for the +sake of the bindings. It is of no use to have a good binding unless +you can use it in the right way. In my opinion, on a long journey +such as that we had before us, the ski must be perfectly steady. I +do not know anything that tires me more than a bad fastening -- that +is, one that allows the foot to shift in the binding. I want the +ski to be a part of oneself, so that one always has full command of +them. I have tried many patents, for I have always been afraid of a +stiff fastening in cold temperatures; but all these patents, without +exception, are worthless in the long-run. I decided this time to +try a combination of stiff and soft foot-gear, so that we could use +the splendid Huitfeldt-Höyer Ellefsen bindings; but this was no easy +matter. Of our whole outfit nothing caused me more worry or gave us +all more work in the course of the expedition than the stiff outer +covering which we had to have; but we solved the problem at last. I +applied to one of the leading makers of ski-boots in Christiania, and +explained the difficulty to him; fortunately I had found a man who +was evidently interested in the question. We agreed that he should +make a sample pair after the pattern of ski-boots. The sole was to +be thick and stiff -- for we had to be prepared to use crampons -- +but the uppers as soft as possible. In order to avoid leather, which +usually becomes stiff and easily cracked in the cold, he was to use +a combination of leather and thin canvas for the uppers -- leather +nearest the sole, and canvas above it.</p> + +<p>The measurements were taken from my foot, which is not exactly a +child's foot, with two pairs of reindeer-skin stockings on, and ten +pairs were made. I well remember seeing these boots in civilized +Christiania. They were exhibited in the bootmaker's windows -- I +used to go a long way round to avoid coming face to face with these +monsters in public. We are all a trifle vain, and dislike having our +own shortcomings shown up in electric light. If I had ever cherished +any illusions on the subject of "a dainty little foot," I am sure the +last trace of such vanity died out on the day I passed the shoemaker's +window and beheld my own boots. I never went that way again until +I was certain that the exhibition was closed. One thing is certain, +that the boots were a fine piece of workmanship. We shall hear later +on of the alterations they had to undergo before we at last made them +as large as we wanted, for the giant boots turned out much too small!</p> + +<p>Among other equipment I must mention our excellent Primus cooking +apparatus. This all came complete from a firm in Stockholm. For cooking +on sledge journeys the Primus stove ranks above all others; it gives +a great deal of heat, uses little oil, and requires no attention -- +advantages which are important enough anywhere, but especially when +sledging. There is never any trouble with this apparatus; it has come +as near perfection as possible. We took five Nansen cookers with +us. This cooker utilizes the heat more completely than any other; +but I have one objection to make to it -- it takes up space. We used +it on our depot journeys, but were unfortunately obliged to give it up +on the main southern journey. We were so many in a tent, and space was +so limited, that I dared not risk using it. If one has room enough, +it is ideal in my opinion.</p> + +<p>We had with us ten pairs of snow-shoes and one hundred sets of +dog-harness of the Alaska Eskimo pattern. The Alaska Eskimo drive +their dogs in tandem; the whole pull is thus straight ahead in the +direction the sledge is going, and this is undoubtedly the best way of +utilizing the power. I had made up my mind to adopt the same system +in sledging on the Barrier. Another great advantage it had was that +the dogs would pass singly across fissures, so that the danger of +falling through was considerably reduced. The exertion of pulling is +also less trying with Alaska harness than with the Greenland kind, +as the Alaska harness has a shallow, padded collar, which is slipped +over the animal's head and makes the weight of the pull come on his +shoulders, whereas the Greenland harness presses on his chest. Raw +places, which occur rather frequently with the Greenland harness, are +almost entirely avoided with the other. All the sets of harness were +made in the navy workshops, and after their long and hard use they +are as good as ever. There could be no better recommendation than this.</p> + +<p>Of instruments and apparatus for the sledge journeys we carried +two sextants, three artificial horizons, of which two were glass +horizons with dark glasses, and one a mercury horizon, and four spirit +compasses, made in Christiania. They were excellent little compasses, +but unfortunately useless in cold weather -- that is to say, when the +temperature went below -40º F.; at this point the liquid froze. I had +drawn the maker's attention to this beforehand and asked him to use as +pure a spirit as possible. What his object was I still do not know, +but the spirit he employed was highly dilute. The best proof of this +was that the liquid in our compasses froze before the spirits in a +flask. We were naturally inconvenienced by this. Besides these we had +an ordinary little pocket-compass, two pairs of binoculars, one by +Zeiss and the other by Goertz, and snow-goggles from Dr. Schanz. We +had various kinds of glasses for these, so that we could change when +we were tired of one colour. During the whole stay on the Barrier I +myself wore a pair of ordinary spectacles with yellow glasses of quite +a light tint. These are prepared by a chemical process in such a way +that they nullify the harmful colours in the sun's rays. How excellent +these glasses are appears clearly enough from the fact that I never +had the slightest touch of snow-blindness on the southern journey, +although the spectacles were perfectly open and allowed the light to +enter freely everywhere. It will perhaps be suggested that I am less +susceptible to this ailment than others, but I know from personal +experience that such is not the case. I have previously had several +severe attacks of snow-blindness.</p> + +<p>We had two photographic cameras, an air thermometer, two aneroids with +altitude scale to 15,000 feet, and two hypsometers. The hypsometer +is only an instrument for determining the boiling-point, which gives +one the height above the sea. The method is both simple and reliable.</p> + +<p>The medical stores for sledging were given by a London firm, +and the way in which the things were packed speaks for the whole +outfit. There is not a speck of rust on needles, scissors, knives, +or anything else, although they have been exposed to much damp. Our +own medical outfit, which was bought in Christiania, and according +to the vendor's statement unusually well packed, became in a short +time so damaged that the whole of it is now entirely spoilt.</p> + +<p>The sledging provisions must be mentioned briefly. I have already +spoken of the pemmican. I have never considered it necessary to +take a whole grocer's shop with me when sledging; the food should be +simple and nourishing, and that is enough -- a rich and varied menu +is for people who have no work to do. Besides the pemmican, we had +biscuits, milk-powder, and chocolate. The biscuits were a present +from a well-known Norwegian factory, and did all honour to their +origin. They were specially baked for us, and were made of oatmeal with +the addition of dried milk and a little sugar; they were extremely +nourishing and pleasant to the taste. Thanks to efficient packing, +they kept fresh and crisp all the time. These biscuits formed a great +part of our daily diet, and undoubtedly contributed in no small degree +to the successful result. Milk-powder is a comparatively new commodity +with us, but it deserves to be better known. It came from the district +of Jæderen. Neither heat nor cold, dryness nor wet, could hurt it; +we had large quantities of it lying out in small, thin linen bags in +every possible state of the weather: the powder was as good the last +day as the first. We also took dried milk from a firm in Wisconsin; +this milk had an addition of malt and sugar, and was, in my opinion, +excellent; it also kept good the whole time. The chocolate came from +a world-renowned firm, and was beyond all praise. The whole supply +was a very acceptable gift.</p> + +<p>We are bringing all the purveyors of our sledging provisions samples +of their goods that have made the journey to the South Pole and back, +in gratitude for the kind assistance they afforded us.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER III:<a name="iii"></a> +On the Way to the South</h2> + +<p>The month of May, 1910, ran its course, beautiful as only a spring +month in Norway can be -- a lovely dream of verdure and flowers. But +unfortunately we had little time to admire all the splendour that +surrounded us; our watchword was "Away" -- away from beautiful sights, +as quickly as possible.</p> + +<p>From the beginning of the month the Fram lay moored to her buoy +outside the old walls of Akershus. Fresh and trim she came from the +yard at Horten; you could see the shine on her new paint a long way +off. Involuntarily one thought of holidays and yachting tours at the +sight of her; but the thought was soon banished. The first day after +her arrival, the vessel's deck assumed the most everyday appearance +that could be desired: the loading had begun.</p> + +<p>A long procession of cases of provisions made its way unceasingly +from the basement of the Historical Museum down into the roomy hold +of the Fram, where Lieutenant Nilsen and the three Nordlanders were +ready to receive them. This process was not an altogether simple one; +on the contrary, it was a very serious affair. It was not enough to +know that all the cases were duly on board; the problem was to know +exactly where each particular case was placed, and, at the same time, +to stow them all in such a way that they could easily be got at in +future. This was a difficult piece of work, and it was not rendered +any more easy by the attention that had to be paid to the numerous +hatches leading down into the lower hold, where the big petroleum +tanks stood. All these hatches had to be left accessible, otherwise +we should have been cut off from pumping the oil into the engine-room.</p> + +<p>However, Nilsen and his assistants accomplished their task with +brilliant success. Among the hundreds of cases there was not one that +was misplaced; not one that was stowed so that it could not instantly +be brought into the light of day.</p> + +<p>While the provisioning was going on, the rest of the equipment was +also being taken on board. Each member of the expedition was busily +engaged in looking after the needs of his own department in the best +way possible. Nor was this a question of trifles: one may cudgel one's +brains endlessly in advance, but some new requirement will constantly +be cropping up -- until one puts a full stop to it by casting off +and sailing. This event was becoming imminent with the arrival of June.</p> + +<p>The day before leaving Christiania we had the honour and pleasure +of receiving a visit from the King and Queen of Norway on board the +Fram. Having been informed beforehand of their Majesties' coming, we +endeavoured as far as possible to bring some order into the chaos that +reigned on board. I do not know that we were particularly successful, +but I am sure that every one of the Fram's crew will always remember +with respectful gratitude King Haakon's cordial words of farewell.</p> + +<p>On the same occasion the expedition received from their Majesties +the gift of a beautiful silver jug, which afterwards formed the most +handsome ornament of our table on every festive occasion.</p> + +<p>On June 3, early in the forenoon, the Fram left Christiania, bound +at first for my home on Bundefjord. The object of her call there was +to take on board the house for the winter station, which stood ready +built in the garden. Our excellent carpenter Jörgen Stubberud had +superintended the construction of this strong building. It was now +rapidly taken to pieces, and every single plank and beam was carefully +numbered. We had quite an imposing pile of materials to get aboard, +where even before there was not much room to spare. The bulk of it +was stowed forward, and the remainder in the hold.</p> + +<p>The more experienced among the members of the expedition were evidently +absorbed in profound conjectures as to the meaning of this "observation +house," as the newspapers had christened it. It may willingly be +admitted that they had good reason for their speculations. By an +observation house is usually meant a comparatively simple construction, +sufficient to provide the necessary shelter from wind and weather. Our +house, on the other hand, was a model of solidity, with three double +walls, double roof and floor. Its arrangements included ten inviting +bunks, a kitchener, and a table; the latter, moreover, had a brand-new +American-cloth cover. "I can understand that they want to keep +themselves warm when they're making observations," said Helmer Hanssen; +"but what they want with a cloth on the table I can't make out."</p> + +<p>On the afternoon of June 6 it was announced that everything was ready, +and in the evening we all assembled at a simple farewell supper in +the garden. I took the opportunity of wishing good luck to every man +in turn, and finally we united in a</p> + +<p>"God preserve the King and Fatherland!"</p> + +<p>Then we broke up. The last man to get into the boat was the second +in command; he arrived armed with a horseshoe. In his opinion it is +quite incredible what luck an old horseshoe will bring. Possibly he +is right. Anyhow, the horseshoe was firmly nailed to the mast in the +Fram's saloon, and there it still hangs.</p> + +<p>When on board, we promptly set to work to get up the anchor. The +Bolinder motor hummed, and the heavy cable rattled in through the +hawse-hole. Precisely at midnight the anchor let go of the bottom, +and just as the Seventh of June[3], rolled in over us, the Fram stood +out of Christiania Fjord for the third time. Twice already had a band +of stout-hearted men brought this ship back with honour after years +of service. Would it be vouchsafed to us to uphold this honourable +tradition? Such were, no doubt, the thoughts with which most of us +were occupied as our vessel glided over the motionless fjord in the +light summer night. The start was made under the sign of the Seventh +of June, and this was taken as a promising omen; but among our bright +and confident hopes there crept a shadow of melancholy. The hillsides, +the woods, the fjord -- all were so bewitchingly fair and so dear to +us. They called to us with their allurement, but the Diesel motor knew +no pity. Its tuff-tuff went on brutally through the stillness. A little +boat, in which were some of my nearest relations, dropped gradually +astern. There was a glimpse of white handkerchiefs in the twilight, +and then -- farewell!</p> + +<p>The next morning we were moored in the inner harbour at Horten. An +apparently innocent lighter came alongside at once, but the lighter's +cargo was not quite so innocent as its appearance. It consisted +of no less than half a ton of gun-cotton and rifle ammunition, +a somewhat unpleasant, but none the less necessary, item of our +equipment. Besides taking on board the ammunition, we availed +ourselves of the opportunity of completing our water-supply. When +this was done, we lost no time in getting away. As we passed the +warships lying in the harbour they manned ship, and the bands played +the National Anthem. Outside Vealös we had the pleasure of waving a +last farewell to a man to whom the expedition will always owe a debt +of gratitude, Captain Christian Blom, Superintendent of the dockyard, +who had supervised the extensive repairs to the Fram with unrelaxing +interest and obligingness. He slipped past us in his sailing-boat; +I do not remember if he got a cheer. If he did not, it was a mistake.</p> + +<p>Now we were on our way to the South, as the heading of this +chapter announces, though not yet in earnest. We had an additional +task before us: the oceanographical cruise in the Atlantic. This +necessitated a considerable détour on the way. The scientific results +of this cruise will be dealt with by specialists in due course; +if it is briefly referred to here, this is chiefly for the sake +of continuity. After consultation with Professor Nansen, the plan +was to begin investigations in the region to the south of Ireland, +and thence to work our way westward as far as time and circumstances +permitted. The work was to be resumed on the homeward voyage in the +direction of the North of Scotland. For various reasons this programme +afterwards had to be considerably reduced.</p> + +<p>For the first few days after leaving Norway we were favoured with +the most splendid summer weather. The North Sea was as calm as a +millpond; the Fram had little more motion than when she was lying +in Bundefjord. This was all the better for us, as we could hardly be +said to be absolutely ready for sea when we passed Færder, and came +into the capricious Skagerak. Hard pressed as we had been for time, +it had not been possible to lash and stow the last of our cargo as +securely as was desirable; a stiff breeze at the mouth of the fjord +would therefore have been rather inconvenient. As it was, everything +was arranged admirably, but to do this we had to work night and day. I +have been told that on former occasions sea-sickness made fearful +ravages on board the Fram, but from this trial we also had an easy +escape. Nearly all the members of the expedition were used to the sea, +and the few who, perhaps, were not so entirely proof against it had a +whole week of fine weather to get into training. So far as I know, not +a single case occurred of this unpleasant and justly dreaded complaint.</p> + +<p>After passing the Dogger Bank we had a very welcome north-east breeze; +with the help of the sails we could now increase the not very reckless +speed that the motor was capable of accomplishing. Before we sailed, +the most contradictory accounts were current of the Fram's sailing +qualities. There were some who asserted that the ship could not be +got through the water at all, while with equal force the contrary +view was maintained -- that she was a notable fast sailer. As might +be supposed, the truth as usual lay about half-way between these two +extremes. The ship was no racer, nor was she an absolute log. We +ran before the north-east wind towards the English Channel at a +speed of about seven knots, and with that we were satisfied for the +time being. The important question for us was whether we should keep +the favourable wind till we were well through the Straits of Dover, +and, preferably, a good way down Channel. Our engine power was far +too limited to make it of any use trying to go against the wind, +and we should have been obliged in that case to have recourse to the +sailing-ship's method -- beating. Tacking in the English Channel -- the +busiest part of the world's seas -- is in itself no very pleasant work; +for us it would be so much the worse, as it would greatly encroach on +the time that could be devoted to oceanographical investigations. But +the east wind held with praiseworthy steadiness. In the course of a +few days we were through the Channel, and about a week after leaving +Norway we were able to take the first oceanographical station at the +point arranged according to the plan. Hitherto everything had gone +as smoothly as we could wish, but now, for a change, difficulties +began to appear, first in the form of unfavourable weather When the +north-wester begins to blow in the North Atlantic, it is generally a +good while before it drops again, and this time it did not belie its +reputation. Far from getting to the westward, we were threatened for +a time with being driven on to the Irish coast. It was not quite so +bad as that, but we soon found ourselves obliged to shorten the route +originally laid down very considerably. A contributing cause of this +determination was the fact that the motor was out of order. Whether it +was the fault of the oil or a defect in the engine itself our engineer +was not clear. It was therefore necessary to make for home in good +time, in case of extensive repairs being required. In spite of these +difficulties, we had a quite respectable collection of samples of +water and temperatures at different depths before we set our course +for Norway at the beginning of July, with Bergen as our destination.</p> + +<p>During the passage from the Pentland Firth we had a violent gale from +the north, which gave us an opportunity of experiencing how the Fram +behaved in bad weather. The trial was by no means an easy one. It +was blowing a gale, with a cross sea; we kept going practically +under full sail, and had the satisfaction of seeing our ship make +over nine knots. In the rather severe rolling the collar of the mast +in the fore-cabin was loosened a little; this let the water in, and +there was a slight flooding of Lieutenant Nilsen's cabin and mine. The +others, whose berths were to port, were on the weather side, and kept +dry. We came out of it all with the loss of a few boxes of cigars, +which were wet through. They were not entirely lost for all that; +Rönne took charge of them, and regaled himself with salt and mouldy +cigars for six months afterwards. Going eight or nine knots an hour, +we did not make much of the distance between Scotland and Norway. On +the afternoon of Saturday, July 9, the wind dropped, and at the same +time the lookout reported land in sight. This was Siggen on Bömmelö. In +the course of the night we came under the coast, and on Sunday morning, +July 10, we ran into Sælbjömsfjord. We had no detailed chart of this +inlet, but after making a great noise with our powerful air-siren, +we at last roused the inmates of the pilot-station, and a pilot +came aboard. He showed visible signs of surprise when he found out, +by reading the name on the ship's side, that it was the Fram he had +before him. "Lord, I thought you were a Russian!" he exclaimed. This +supposition was presumably intended to serve as a sort of excuse for +his small hurry in coming on board.</p> + +<p>It was a lovely trip through the fjords to Bergen, as warm and +pleasant in here as it had been bitter and cold outside. We had a +dead calm all day, and with the four knots an hour, which was all +the motor could manage, it was late in the evening when we anchored +off the naval dockyard in Solheimsvik. Our stay in Bergen happened +at the time of the exhibition, and the committee paid the expedition +the compliment of giving all its members free passes.</p> + +<p>Business of one kind and another compelled me to go to Christiania, +leaving the Fram in charge of Lieutenant Nilsen. They had their +hands more than full on board. Diesel's firm in Stockholm sent their +experienced fitter, Aspelund, who at once set to work to overhaul the +motor thoroughly. The work that had to be done was executed gratis by +the Laxevaag engineering works. After going into the matter thoroughly, +it was decided to change the solar oil we had on board for refined +petroleum. Through the courtesy of the West of Norway Petroleum +Company, we got this done on very favourable terms at the company's +storage dock in Skaalevik. This was troublesome work, but it paid in +the future.</p> + +<p>The samples of water from our trip were taken to the biological +station, where Kutschin at once went to work with the filtering +(determination of the proportion of chlorine).</p> + +<p>Our German shipmate, the oceanographer Schroer, left us at Bergen. On +July 23 the Fram left Bergen, and arrived on the following day at +Christiansand, where I met her. Here we again had a series of busy +days. In one of the Custom-house warehouses were piled a quantity +of things that had to go on board: no less than 400 bundles of dried +fish, all our ski and sledging outfit, a waggon-load of timber, etc. At +Fredriksholm, out on Flekkerö, we had found room for perhaps the most +important of all -- the passengers, the ninety-seven Eskimo dogs, +which had arrived from Greenland in the middle of July on the steamer +Hans Egede. The ship had had a rather long and rough passage, and the +dogs were not in very good condition on their arrival, but they had +not been many days on the island under the supervision of Hassel and +Lindström before they were again in full vigour. A plentiful supply +of fresh meat worked wonders. The usually peaceful island, with the +remains of the old fortress, resounded day by day, and sometimes at +night, with the most glorious concerts of howling. These musical +performances attracted a number of inquisitive visitors, who were +anxious to submit the members of the chorus to a closer examination, +and therefore, at certain times, the public were admitted to see the +animals. It soon turned out that the majority of the dogs, far from +being ferocious or shy, were, on the contrary, very appreciative of +these visits. They sometimes came in for an extra tit-bit in the form +of a sandwich or something of the sort. Besides which, it was a little +diversion in their life of captivity, so uncongenial to an Arctic dog; +for every one of them was securely chained up. This was necessary, +especially to prevent fighting among themselves. It happened not +infrequently that one or more of them got loose, but the two guardians +were always ready to capture the runaways. One enterprising rascal +started to swim over the sound to the nearest land -- the object of +his expedition was undoubtedly certain unsuspecting sheep that were +grazing by the shore -- but his swim was interrupted in time.</p> + +<p>After the Fram's arrival Wisting took over the position of dog-keeper +in Hassel's place. He and Lindström stayed close to the island where +the dogs were. Wisting had a way of his own with his four-footed +subjects, and was soon on a confidential footing with them. He also +showed himself to be possessed of considerable veterinary skill -- an +exceedingly useful qualification in this case, where there was often +some injury or other to be attended to. As I have already mentioned, +up to this time no member of the expedition, except Lieutenant Nilsen, +knew anything of the extension of plan that had been made. Therefore, +amongst the things that came on board, and amongst the preparations +that were made during our stay at Christiansand, there must have +been a great deal that appeared very strange to those who, for the +present, were only looking forward to a voyage round Cape Horn to San +Francisco. What was the object of taking all these dogs on board and +transporting them all that long way? And if it came to that, would any +of them survive the voyage round the formidable promontory? Besides, +were there not dogs enough, and good dogs too, in Alaska? Why was +the whole after-deck full of coal? What was the use of all these +planks and boards? Would it not have been much more convenient to +take all that kind of goods on board in 'Frisco? These and many +similar questions began to pass from man to man; indeed, their very +faces began to resemble notes of interrogation. Not that anyone asked +me -- far from it; it was the second in command who had to bear the +brunt and answer as well as he could -- an extremely thankless and +unpleasant task for a man who already had his hands more than full.</p> + +<p>In order to relieve his difficult situation, I resolved, shortly before +leaving Christiansand, to inform Lieutenants Prestrud and Gjertsen +of the true state of affairs. After having signed an undertaking of +secrecy, they received full information of the intended dash to the +South Pole, and an explanation of the reasons for keeping the whole +thing secret. When asked whether they wished to take part in the +new plan, they both answered at once in the affirmative, and that +settled it.</p> + +<p>There were now three men on board -- all the officers -- who were +acquainted with the situation, and were thus in a position to parry +troublesome questions and remove possible anxieties on the part of +the uninitiated.</p> + +<p>Two of the members of the expedition joined during the stay at +Christiansand -- Hassel and Lindström -- and one change was made: +the engineer Eliassen was discharged. It was no easy matter to find +a man who possessed the qualifications for taking over the post of +engineer to the Fram. Few, or perhaps no one, in Norway could be +expected to have much knowledge of motors of the size of ours. The +only thing to be done was to go to the place where the engine was +built -- to Sweden. Diesel's firm in Stockholm helped us out of the +difficulty; they sent us the man, and it afterwards turned out that +he was the right man. Knut Sundbeck was his name. A chapter might be +written on the good work that man did, and the quiet, unostentatious +way in which he did it. From the very beginning he had assisted in +the construction of the Fram's motor, so that he knew his engine +thoroughly. He treated it as his darling; therefore there was never +anything the matter with it. It may truly be said that he did honour +to his firm and the nation to which he belongs.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile we were hard at work, getting ready to sail. We decided to +leave before the middle of August -- the sooner the better.</p> + +<p>The Fram had been in dry dock, where the hull was thoroughly coated +with composition. Heavily laden as the ship was, the false keel was +a good deal injured by the severe pressure on the blocks, but with +the help of a diver the damage was quickly made good.</p> + +<p>The many hundred bundles of dried fish were squeezed into the main +hold, full as it was. All sledging and ski outfit was carefully stowed +away, so as to be protected as far as possible from damp. These +things had to be kept dry, otherwise they, would become warped and +useless. Bjaaland had charge of this outfit, and he knew how it should +be treated.</p> + +<p>As is right and proper, when all the goods had been shipped, it was +the turn of the passengers. The Fram was anchored off Fredriksholm, +and the necessary preparations were immediately made for receiving +our four-footed friends. Under the expert direction of</p> + +<p>Bjaaland and Stubberud, as many as possible of the crew were set to +work with axe and saw, and in the course of a few hours the Fram had +got a new deck. This consisted of loose pieces of decking, which could +easily be raised and removed for flushing and cleaning. This false +deck rested on three-inch planks nailed to the ship's deck; between +the latter and the loose deck there was therefore a considerable space, +the object of which was a double one -- namely, to let the water, which +would unavoidably be shipped on such a voyage, run off rapidly, and +to allow air to circulate, and thus keep the space below the animals +as cool as possible. The arrangement afterwards proved very successful.</p> + +<p>The bulwarks on the fore-part of the Fram's deck consisted of an iron +railing covered with wire-netting. In order to provide both shade and +shelter from the wind, a lining of boards was now put up along the +inside of the railing, and chains were fastened in all possible and +impossible places to tie the dogs up to. There could be no question of +letting them go loose -- to begin with, at any rate; possibly, we might +hope to be able to set them free later on, when they knew their masters +better and were more familiar with their surroundings generally.</p> + +<p>Late in the afternoon of August 9 we were ready to receive our new +shipmates, and they were conveyed across from the island in a big +lighter, twenty at a time. Wisting and Lindström superintended the +work of transport, and maintained order capitally. They had succeeded +in gaining the dogs' confidence, and at the same time their complete +respect -- just what was wanted, in fact. At the Fram's gangway the +dogs came in for an active and determined reception, and before they +had recovered from their surprise and fright, they were securely +fastened on deck and given to understand with all politeness that +the best thing they could do for the time being was to accept the +situation with calmness. The whole proceeding went so rapidly that +in the course of a couple of hours we had all the ninety-seven dogs +on board and had found room for them; but it must be added that the +Fram's deck was utilized to the utmost. We had thought we should be +able to keep the bridge free, but this could not be done if we were +to take them all with us. The last boat-load, fourteen in number, had +to be accommodated there. All that was left was a little free space +for the man at the wheel. As for the officer of the watch, it looked +as if he would be badly off for elbow-room; there was reason to fear +that he would be compelled to kill time by standing stock-still in +one spot through the whole watch; but just then there was no time for +small troubles of this sort. No sooner was the last dog on board than +we set about putting all visitors ashore, and then the motor began +working the windlass under the forecastle. "The anchor's up!" Full +speed ahead, and the voyage towards our goal, 16,000 miles away, +was begun. Quietly and unobserved we went out of the fjord at dusk; +a few of our friends accompanied us out.</p> + +<p>After the pilot had left us outside Flekkerö, it was not long before +the darkness of the August evening hid the outlines of the country +from our view; but Oxö and Ryvingen flashed their farewells to us +all through the night.</p> + +<p>We had been lucky with wind and weather at the commencement of our +Atlantic cruise in the early summer; this time we were, if possible, +even more favoured. It was perfectly calm when we sailed, and the +North Sea lay perfectly calm for several days after. What we had +to do now was to become familiar with and used to, all these dogs, +and this was enormously facilitated by the fact that for the first +week we experienced nothing but fine weather.</p> + +<p>Before we sailed there was no lack of all kinds of prophecies of the +evil that would befall us with our dogs. We heard a number of these +predictions; presumably a great many more were whispered about, but +did not reach our ears. The unfortunate beasts were to fare terribly +badly. The heat of the tropics would make short work of the greater +part of them. If any were left, they would have but a miserable respite +before being washed overboard or drowned in the seas that would come +on deck in the west wind belt. To keep them alive with a few bits of +dried fish was an impossibility, etc.</p> + +<p>As everyone knows, all these predictions were very far from being +fulfilled; the exact opposite happened. Since then I expect most of us +who made the trip have been asked the question -- Was not that voyage +to the South an excessively wearisome and tedious business? Didn't +you get sick of all those dogs? How on earth did you manage to keep +them alive?</p> + +<p>It goes without saying that a five months' voyage in such waters as we +were navigating must necessarily present a good deal of monotony; how +much will depend on what resources one has for providing occupation. In +this respect we had in these very dogs just what was wanted. No doubt +it was work that very often called for the exercise of patience; +nevertheless, like any other work, it furnished diversion and +amusement, and so much the more since we here had to deal with living +creatures that had sense enough fully to appreciate and reciprocate +in their own way any advance that was made to them.</p> + +<p>From the very first I tried in every way to insist upon the paramount +importance to our whole enterprise of getting our draught animals +successfully conveyed to our destination. If we had any watchword at +this time it was: "Dogs first, and dogs all the time." The result +speaks best for the way in which this watchword was followed. The +following was the arrangement we made: The dogs, who at first were +always tied up on the same spot, were divided into parties of ten; to +each party one or two keepers were assigned, with full responsibility +for their animals and their treatment. For my own share I took the +fourteen that lived on the bridge. Feeding the animals was a manoeuvre +that required the presence of all hands on deck; it therefore took +place when the watch was changed. The Arctic dog's greatest enjoyment +in life is putting away his food; it may be safely asserted that +the way to his heart lies through his dish of meat. We acted on this +principle, and the result did not disappoint us. After the lapse of +a few days the different squads were the best of friends with their +respective keepers.</p> + +<p>As may be supposed, it was not altogether to the taste of the dogs to +stand chained up all the time; their temperament is far too lively for +that. We would gladly have allowed them the pleasure of running about +and thus getting healthy exercise, but for the present we dared not run +the risk of letting the whole pack loose. A little more education was +required first. It was easy enough to win their affection; to provide +them with a good education was of course a more difficult matter. It +was quite touching to see their joy and gratitude when one gave up +a little time to their entertainment. One's first meeting with them +in the morning was specially cordial. Their feelings were then apt +to find vent in a chorus of joyful howls; this was called forth by +the very sight of their masters, but they asked more than that. They +were not satisfied until we had gone round, patting and talking to +every one. If by chance one was so careless as to miss a dog, he at +once showed the most unmistakable signs of disappointment.</p> + +<p>There can hardly be an animal that is capable of expressing its +feelings to the same extent as the dog. Joy, sorrow, gratitude, +scruples of conscience, are all reflected as plainly as could be +desired in his behaviour, and above all in his eyes. We human beings +are apt to cherish the conviction that we have a monopoly of what is +called a living soul; the eyes, it is said, are the mirror of this +soul. That is all right enough; but now take a look at a dog's eyes, +study them attentively. How often do we see something "human" in their +expression, the same variations that we meet with in human eyes. This, +at all events, is something that strikingly resembles "soul." We will +leave the question open for those who are interested in its solution, +and will here only mention another point, which seems to show that +a dog is something more than a mere machine of flesh and blood -- +his pronounced individuality. There were about a hundred dogs on +board the Fram. Gradually, as we got to know each one of them by +daily intercourse, they each revealed some characteristic trait, some +peculiarity. Hardly two of them were alike, either in disposition or +in appearance. To an observant eye there was here ample opportunity +for the most amusing exercise. If now and then one grew a little +tired of one's fellow-men -- which, I must admit, seldom happened -- +there was, as a rule, diversion to be found in the society of the +animals. I say, as a rule; there were, of course, exceptions. It was +not an unmixed pleasure having the whole deck full of dogs for all +those months; our patience was severely tested many a time. But in +spite of all the trouble and inconvenience to which the transport of +the dogs necessarily gave rise, I am certainly right in saying that +these months of sea voyage would have seemed far more monotonous and +tedious if we had been without our passengers.</p> + +<p>During the first four or five days we had now been making our way +towards the Straits of Dover, and the hope began to dawn within us +that this time, as last, we should slip through without any great +difficulty. There had been five days of absolute calm; why should it +not last out the week? But it did not. As we passed the lightship at +the western end of the Goodwins the fine weather left us, and in its +place came the south-west wind with rain, fog, and foul weather in +its train. In the course of half an hour it became so thick that it +was impossible to see more than two or three ship's lengths ahead; +but if we could see nothing, we heard all the more. The ceaseless +shrieks of many steam-whistles and sirens told us only too plainly +what a crowd of vessels we were in. It was not exactly a pleasant +situation; our excellent ship had many good points, but they did not +prevent her being extraordinarily slow and awkward in turning. This is +an element of great danger in these waters. It must be remembered that +a possible accident -- whether our own fault or not -- would to us be +absolutely fatal. We had so little time to spare that the resulting +delay might ruin the whole enterprise. An ordinary trading vessel can +take the risk; by careful manoeuvring a skipper can almost always keep +out of the way. Collisions are, as a rule, the result of rashness +or carelessness on one side or the other. The rash one has to pay; +the careful one may perhaps make money out of it. Carefulness on our +part was a matter of course; it would have been a poor consolation +to us if another ship had had to pay for her carelessness. We could +not take that risk; therefore, little as we liked doing so, we put +into the Downs and anchored there.</p> + +<p>Right opposite to us we had the town of Deal, then in the height +of its season. The only amusement we had was to observe all these +apparently unconcerned people, who passed their time in bathing, or +walking about the white, inviting sands. They had no need to worry +themselves much about what quarter the wind blew from. Our only wish +was that it would veer, or in any case drop. Our communication with +the land was limited to sending ashore telegrams and letters for home.</p> + +<p>By the next morning our patience was already quite exhausted, but +not so with the south-wester. It kept going as steadily as ever, +but it was clear weather, and therefore we decided at once to make +an attempt to get to the west. There was nothing to be done but +to have recourse to the ancient method of beating. We cleared one +point, and then another, but more than that we could not manage for +the time being. We took one bearing after another; no, there was no +visible progress. Off Dungeness we had to anchor again, and once more +console ourselves with the much-vaunted balm of patience. This time +we escaped with passing the night there. The wind now thought fit to +veer sufficiently to let us get out at daybreak, but it was still a +contrary wind, and we had to beat almost all the way down the English +Channel. A whole week was spent in doing these three hundred miles; +that was rather hard, considering the distance we had to go.</p> + +<p>I fancy most of us gave a good sigh of relief when at last we were +clear of the Scilly Isles. The everlasting south-west wind was still +blowing, but that did not matter so much now. The main thing was +that we found ourselves in open sea with the whole Atlantic before +us. Perhaps one must have sailed in the Fram to be able fully to +understand what a blessing it was to feel ourselves altogether clear +of the surrounding land and the many sailing-ships in the Channel -- +to say nothing of constantly working the ship with a deck swarming with +dogs. On our first voyage through the Channel in June we had caught +two or three carrier pigeons, which had come to rest in the rigging +utterly tired out. On the approach of darkness we were able to get +hold of them without difficulty. Their numbers and marks were noted, +and after they had been taken care of for a couple of days and had +recovered their strength, we let them go. They circled once or twice +round the mast-heads, and then made for the English coast.</p> + +<p>I think this episode led to our taking a few carrier pigeons with us +when we left Christiansand; Lieutenant Nilsen, as a former owner of +pigeons, was to take charge of them. Then a nice house was made for +them, and the pigeons lived happily in their new abode on the top +of the whale-boat amidships. Now, in some way or other the second +in command found out that the circulation of air in the pigeon-house +was faulty; to remedy this defect, he one day set the door a little +ajar. Air certainly got into the house, but the pigeons came out. A +joker, on discovering that the birds had flown, wrote up "To Let" +in big letters on the wall of the pigeon-house. The second in command +was not in a very gentle frame of mind that day.</p> + +<p>As far as I know, this escape took place in the Channel. The pigeons +found their way home to Norway.</p> + +<p>The Bay of Biscay has a bad name among seamen, and it fully deserves +it; that tempestuous corner of the sea conceals for ever in its +depths so many a stout ship and her crew. We for our part, however, +had good hopes of escaping unharmed, considering the time of year, +and our hopes were fulfilled. We had better luck than we dared to +anticipate. Our stubborn opponent, the south-west wind, got tired at +last of trying to stop our progress; it was no use. We went slowly, +it was true, but still we got along. Of the meteorological lessons +of our youth, we especially recalled at that moment the frequent +northerly winds off the coast of Portugal, and as a pleasant surprise +we already had them far up in the Bay. This was an agreeable change +after all our close-hauled tacking in the Channel. The north wind held +almost as bravely as the south-west had done before, and at what was +to our ideas quite a respectable rate, we went southward day after day +towards the fine-weather zone, where we could be sure of a fair wind, +and where a sailor's life is, as a rule, a pleasant one.</p> + +<p>For that matter, as far as seamanship was concerned, our work +had gone on smoothly enough, even during these first difficult +weeks. There were always willing and practised hands enough for what +was wanted, even though the work to be done was frequently of a not +very pleasant kind. Take washing decks, for instance. Every seaman +will have something to say about what this is like on board ships +that carry live animals, especially when these are carried on deck, +in the way of all work that has to be done. I have always held the +opinion that a Polar ship ought not, any more than any other vessel, +to be a wholesale establishment for dirt and filth, however many dogs +there may be on board. On the contrary, I should say that on voyages +of this kind it is more than ever vitally necessary to keep one's +surroundings as clean and sweet as possible. The important thing is +to get rid of anything that may have a demoralizing and depressing +effect. The influence of uncleanliness in this way is so well known +that it is needless to preach about it here.</p> + +<p>My views were shared by everyone on board the Fram, and everything +was done to act in accordance with them, in spite of what may +be considered great difficulties. Twice a day the whole deck was +thoroughly washed down, besides all the extra turns at odd times with +bucket and scrubber. At least once a week the whole of the loose deck +was taken up, and each separate part of it thoroughly washed, until +it was as clean as when it was laid down at Christiansand. This was +a labour that required great patience and perseverance on the part of +those who had to perform it, but I never saw any shortcomings. "Let's +just see and get it clean," they said.</p> + +<p>At night, when it was not always easy to see what one was doing, +it might often happen that one heard some more or less heated +exclamations from those who had to handle coils of rope in working +the ship. I need not hint more explicitly at the cause of them, +if it is remembered that there were dogs lying about everywhere, +who had eaten and drunk well in the course of the day. But after a +time the oaths gave way to jokes. There is nothing in the world that +custom does not help us to get over.</p> + +<p>It is the universal practice on board ship to divide the day and +night into watches of four hours; the two watches into which the +crew is divided relieve each other every four hours. But on vessels +that sail to the Arctic Ocean, it is customary to have watches of six +hours. We adopted the latter plan, which, on its being put to the vote, +proved to have a compact majority in its favour. By this arrangement +of watches we only had to turn out twice in the course of twenty-four +hours, and the watch below had had a proper sleep whenever it turned +out. If one has to eat, smoke, and perhaps chat a little during four +hours' watch below, it does not leave much time for sleeping; and if +there should be a call for all hands on deck, it means no sleep at all.</p> + +<p>To cope with the work of the engine-room, we had from the beginning the +two engineers, Sundbeck and Nödtvedt; they took watch and watch, four +hours each. When the motor was in use for a long time continuously, +this was a rather severe duty, and on the whole it was just as well +to have a man in reserve. I therefore decided to have a third man +trained as reserve engineer. Kristensen applied for this post, and it +may be said in his praise that he accomplished the change remarkably +well. Thorough deck-hand as he was, there might have been reason to +fear that he would repent of the transfer; but no, he quickly became +life and soul an engineer. This did not prevent our seeing him on +deck again many a time during the passage through the west wind belt, +when there was need of a good man during a gale.</p> + +<p>The motor, which during the Atlantic cruise had been a constant source +of uneasiness and anxiety, regained our entire confidence under +Sundbeck's capable command; it hummed so that it was a pleasure to +hear it. To judge from the sound of the engine-room, one would have +thought the Fram was moving through the water with the speed of a +torpedo-boat. If this was not the case, the engine was not to blame; +possibly, the screw had a share of it. The latter ought probably +to have been somewhat larger, though experts are not agreed about +this; in any case, there was something radically wrong with our +propeller. Whenever there was a little seaway, it was apt to work +loose in the brasses. This disadvantage is of very common occurrence +in vessels which have to be fitted with lifting propellers on account +of the ice, and we did not escape it. The only remedy was to lift the +whole propeller-frame and renew the brasses -- an extremely difficult +work when it had to be done in the open sea and on as lively a ship +as the Fram.</p> + +<p>Day by day we had the satisfaction of seeing how the dogs found +themselves more and more at home on board. Perhaps, even among +ourselves, there were one or two who had felt some doubt at first +of what the solution of the dog question would be, but in any case +all such doubts were soon swept away. Even at an early stage of the +voyage we had every reason to hope that we should land our animals +safe and sound. What we had to see to in the first place was to let +them have as much and as good food as circumstances permitted. As +already mentioned, we had provided ourselves with dried fish for their +consumption. Eskimo dogs do not suffer very greatly from daintiness, +but an exclusive diet of dried fish would seem rather monotonous +in the long-run, even to their appetites, and a certain addition of +fatty substances was necessary, otherwise we should have some trouble +with them. We had on board several great barrels of tallow or fat, +but our store was not so large that we did not have to economize. In +order to make the supply of fat last, and at the same time to induce +our boarders to take as much dried fish as possible, we invented a +mixture which was called by a sailor's term -- dænge. This must not +be confused with "thrashing,"[4] which was also served out liberally +from time to time, but the dænge was more in demand. It consisted +of a mixture of chopped-up fish, tallow, and maize-meal, all boiled +together into a sort of porridge. This dish was served three times +a week, and the dogs were simply mad for it. They very soon learned +to keep count of the days when this mess was to be expected, and +as soon as they heard the rattling of the tin dishes in which the +separate portions were carried round, they set up such a noise that +it was impossible to hear oneself speak. Both the preparation and the +serving out of this extra ration were at times rather troublesome, +but it was well worth it. It is quite certain that our complement of +dogs would have made a poor show on arrival at the Bay of Whales if +we had shrunk from the trouble.</p> + +<p>The dried fish was not nearly so popular as the dænge, but to make up +for that there was plenty of it. Not that the dogs themselves ever +thought they could have enough; indeed, they were always stealing +from their neighbours, perhaps more for the sake of the sport than +for anything else. In any case, as a sport it was extremely popular, +and it took many a good hiding to get the rascals to understand +that it could not be allowed. I am afraid, though, that they kept +up their thieving even after they knew very well that it was wrong; +the habit was too old to be corrected. Another habit, and a very bad +one, that these Eskimo dogs have fallen into in the course of ages, +and of which we tried to break them, at all events during the sea +voyage, is their tendency to hold howling concerts. What the real +meaning of these performances may be, whether they are a pastime, or +an expression of gratification or the reverse, we could never decide +to our satisfaction. They began suddenly and without warning. The +whole pack might be lying perfectly still and quiet, when a single +individual, who for that occasion had taken upon himself the part of +leader of the chorus, would set up a long, blood-curdling yowl. If +they were left to themselves, it was not long before the whole pack +joined in, and this infernal din was kept going at full steam for two +or three minutes. The only amusing thing about the entertainment was +its conclusion. They all stopped short at the same instant, just as +a well-trained chorus obeys the baton of its conductor. Those of us, +however, who happened to be in our bunks, found nothing at all amusing +in these concerts, either in the finale or anything else, for they +were calculated to tear the soundest sleeper from his slumbers. But if +one only took care to stop the leader in his efforts the whole affair +was nipped in the bud, and we usually succeeded in doing this. If +there were some who at first were anxious about their night's rest, +these fears were soon dispersed.</p> + +<p>On leaving Norway we had ninety-seven dogs in all, and of these no +less than ten were bitches. This fact justified us in expecting an +increase of the canine population on our voyage to the South, and +our expectations were very soon fulfilled. The first "happy event +" occurred when we had been no more than three weeks at sea. An +incident of this kind may seem in itself of no great importance; to +us, living under conditions in which one day was almost exactly like +another, it was more than enough to be an object of the greatest +interest. Therefore, when the report went round that "Camilla" +had got four shapely youngsters, there was general rejoicing. Two +of the pups, who happened to be of the male sex, were allowed to +live; the females were sent out of this world long before their +eyes were opened to its joys and sorrows. It might be thought that, +seeing we had nearly a hundred grown-up dogs on board, there would +be little opportunity for looking after puppies; that this was done, +nevertheless, with all the care that could be wished, is due in the +first instance to the touching affection of the second in command +for the little ones. From the very first moment he was their avowed +protector. Gradually, as the numbers increased, there was a difficulty +in finding room on the already well-occupied deck. "I'll take them +in my bunk," said the second in command. It did not come to that, +but if it had been necessary he would certainly have done so. The +example was catching. Later on, when the little chaps were weaned, +and had begun to take other nourishment, one might see regularly, +after every meal, one after another of the crew coming on deck with +some carefully scraped-up bits of food on his plate; the little hungry +mouths were to have what was left over.</p> + +<p>Something more than patience and punctual performance of duty is +displayed in such things as those of which I have been speaking; +it is love of, and a living interest in, one's work. From what I saw +and heard every day, I was certain that these necessary incentives +were present; although, as far as most of the men were concerned, +our object was still the protracted one of drifting for years in +the Arctic ice. The extension of the plan -- the far more imminent +battle with the ice-floes of the South -- was still undreamt of by the +majority of the ship's company. I considered it necessary to keep it +to myself for a little while yet -- until our departure from the port +we were now making for: Funchal, Madeira. It may possibly appear to +many people that I was running a pretty big risk in thus putting off +till the last moment the duty of informing my comrades of the very +considerable détour we were to make. Suppose some, or perhaps all, +of them had objected! It must be admitted that it was a big risk, +but there were so many risks that had to be taken at that time.</p> + +<p>However, as I got to know each man during these first few weeks of our +long voyage, I soon arrived at the conviction that there was nobody +on board the Fram who would try to put difficulties in the way. On +the contrary, I had more and more reason to hope that they would all +receive the news with joy when they heard it; for then their whole +prospect would be so different. Everything had gone with surprising +ease up to this time; in future it would go even better.</p> + +<p>It was not without a certain longing that I looked forward to our +arrival at Madeira: it would be grand to be able to speak out! No +doubt the others who knew of the plan were equally eager. Secrets +are neither amusing nor easy to carry about -- least of all on board +a ship, where one has to live at such close quarters as we had. We +were chatting together every day, of course, and the uninitiated +could not be deterred from leading the conversation round to the ugly +difficulties that would embitter our lives and hinder our progress +when rounding the Horn. It was likely enough that we should manage +to bring the dogs safely through the tropics once, but whether we +should succeed in doing so twice was more doubtful; and so on to +infinity. It is easier to imagine than to describe how awkward all +this was, and how cunningly one had to choose one's words to avoid +saying too much. Among inexperienced men there would have been no +great difficulty, but it must be remembered that on the Fram pretty +nearly every second man had spent years of his life in Polar voyages: +a single slight hint to them would have been enough to expose the +whole plan. That neither those on board nor anyone else discovered +it prematurely can only be explained by its being so obvious.</p> + +<p>Our ship was a good deal too dependent on wind and weather to +enable us to make any accurate estimate of the time our voyage would +occupy, especially as regards those latitudes in which the winds are +variable. The estimate for the whole voyage was based on an average +speed of four knots, and at this very modest rate, as it may seem, +we ought to arrive at the lce Barrier about the middle of January, +1911. As will be seen later, this was realized with remarkable +exactness. For reaching Madeira we had allowed a month as a reasonable +time. We did a good deal better than this, as we were able to leave +Funchal a month to the day after our departure from Christiansand. We +were always ready to forgive the estimate when it was at fault in +this way.</p> + +<p>The delay to which we had been subjected in the English Channel +was fortunately made up along the coast of Spain and to the south +of it. The north wind held until we were in the north-east trade, +and then we were all right. On September 5 our observations at noon +told us that we might expect to see the lights that evening, and +at 10 p.m. the light of San Lorenzo on the little island of Fora, +near Madeira, was reported from the rigging.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER IV: <a name="iv"></a> +From Madeira to the Barrier</h2> + +<p>On the following morning we anchored in Funchal Roads. My brother +was to arrive at Funchal, by arrangement, early enough to be sure +of preceding us there. It was, however, a good while before we saw +anything of him, and we were already flattering ourselves that we had +arrived first when he was suddenly observed in a boat coming under our +stern. We were able to tell him that all was well on board, and he +brought us a big packet of letters and newspapers that gave us news +of home. A little officious gentleman, who said he was a doctor, and +as such had come in an official capacity to inquire as to the state +of our health, was in an amazing hurry to leave the ship again when, +at the top of the gangway, he found himself confronted with a score +of dogs' jaws, which at the moment were opened wide on account of the +heat. The learned man's interest in our health had suddenly vanished; +his thoughts flew to the safety of his own life and limbs.</p> + +<p>As Funchal was the last place where we could communicate with the +outside world, arrangements were made for completing our supplies +in every possible way, and in particular we had to take on board all +the fresh water we could. The consumption of this commodity would be +very large, and the possibility of running short had to be avoided +at any price. For the time being we could do no more than fill all +our tanks and every imaginable receptacle with the precious fluid, +and this was done. We took about 1,000 gallons in the long-boat +that was carried just above the main hatch. This was rather a risky +experiment, which might have had awkward consequences in the event of +the vessel rolling; but we consoled ourselves with the hope of fine +weather and a smooth sea during the next few weeks. During the stay at +Funchal the dogs had two good meals of fresh meat as a very welcome +variety in their diet; a fair-sized carcass of a horse disappeared +with impressive rapidity at each of these banquets. For our own +use we naturally took a plentiful supply of vegetables and fruits, +which were here to be had in abundance; it was the last opportunity +we should have of regaling ourselves with such luxuries.</p> + +<p>Our stay at Funchal was somewhat longer than was intended at first, +as the engineers found it necessary to take up the propeller and +examine the brasses. This work would occupy two days, and while the +three mechanics were toiling in the heat, the rest of the ship's +company took the opportunity of becoming acquainted with the town +and its surroundings; the crew had a day's leave, half at a time. An +excursion was arranged to one of the numerous hotels that are situated +on the heights about the town. The ascent is easily made by means of +a funicular railway, and in the course of the half-hour it takes to +reach the top one is able to get an idea of the luxuriant fertility of +the island. At the hotels one finds a good cuisine, and, of course, +still better wine. It is scarcely necessary to add that we did full +justice to both.</p> + +<p>For the descent a more primitive means of transport was employed: +we came down on sledges. It may be startling to hear of sledging in +Madeira, but I must explain that the sledges had wooden runners, and +that the road was paved with a black stone that was very smooth. We +went at a creditable pace down the steep inclines, each sledge being +drawn or pushed by three or four swarthy natives, who seemed to be +possessed of first-rate legs and lungs.</p> + +<p>It may be mentioned as a curiosity that the newspapers of Funchal did +not hesitate to connect our expedition with the South Pole. The native +journalists had no idea of the value of the startling piece of news +they were circulating. It was a canard invented on the supposition +that when a Polar ship steers to the south, she must, of course, +be making for the South Pole. In this case the canard happened to be +true. Fortunately for us, it did not fly beyond the shores of Madeira.</p> + +<p>By the afternoon of September 9 we could begin to make our preparations +for departure. The engineers had replaced the propeller and tested it; +all supplies were on board, and the chronometers had been checked. All +that remained was to get rid of the importunate bumboat -- men who +swarmed round the vessel in their little craft, each looking like +a small floating shop. These obtrusive fellows were quickly sent +off down the gangway: besides ourselves only my brother was left +on board. Now that we were thus completely isolated from the outer +world, the long-expected moment had arrived when I could proceed to +inform all my comrades of my decision, now a year old, to make for +the South. I believe all who were on board will long remember that +sultry afternoon in Funchal Roads. All hands were called on deck: +what they thought of I do not know, but it was hardly Antarctica and +the South Pole. Lieutenant Nilsen carried a big rolled-up chart; I +could see that this chart was the object of many interrogative glances.</p> + +<p>Not many words were needed before everyone could see where the +wind lay, and what course we should steer henceforward. The second +in command unrolled his big chart of the southern hemisphere, and +I briefly explained the extended plan, as well as my reasons for +keeping it secret until this time. Now and again I had to glance at +their faces. At first, as might be expected, they showed the most +unmistakable signs of surprise; but this expression swiftly changed, +and before I had finished they were all bright with smiles. I was +now sure of the answer I should get when I finally asked each man +whether he was willing to go on, and as the names were called, +every single man had his "Yes" ready. Although, as I have said, +I had expected it to turn out as it did, it is difficult to express +the joy I felt at seeing how promptly my comrades placed themselves +at my service on this momentous occasion. It appeared, however, that +I was not the only one who was pleased. There was so much life and +good spirits on board that evening that one would have thought the +work was successfully accomplished instead of being hardly begun.</p> + +<p>For the present, however, there was not much time to spare +for discussing the news. We had first to see about getting away; +afterwards there would be many months before us. Two hours' grace was +allowed, in which every man could write to his people at home about +what had just passed. The letters were probably not very long ones; +at all events, they were soon finished. The mail was handed over to +my brother to take to Christiania, from whence the letters were sent +to their respective destinations; but this did not take place until +after the alteration of our plans had been published in the Press.</p> + +<p>It had been easy enough to tell my comrades the news, and they could +not have given it a better reception; it was another question what +people at home would say when the intelligence reached their ears. We +afterwards heard that both favourable and unfavourable opinions were +expressed. For the moment we could not trouble ourselves very greatly +with that side of the matter; my brother had undertaken to announce the +way we had taken, and I cannot say that I envied him the task. After +we had all given him a final hearty shake of the hand he left us, and +thereby our communication with the busy world was broken off. We were +left to our own resources. No one can say that the situation oppressed +us greatly. Our long voyage was entered upon as though it were a dance; +there was not a trace of the more or less melancholy feeling that +usually accompanies any parting. The men joked and laughed, while +witticisms, both good and bad, were bandied about on the subject of +our original situation. The anchor came up more quickly than usual, +and after the motor had helped us to escape from the oppressive heat +of the harbour, we had the satisfaction of seeing every sail filled +with the fresh and cooling north-east trade.</p> + +<p>The dogs, who must have found the stay at Funchal rather too warm for +their taste, expressed their delight at the welcome breeze by getting +up a concert. We felt we could not grudge them the pleasure this time.</p> + +<p>It was pure enjoyment to come on deck the morning after leaving +Madeira; there was an added note of friendliness in every man's +"Good-morning," and a smile twinkled in the corner of every eye. The +entirely new turn things had taken, and the sudden change to fresh +fields for thought and imagination, acted as a beneficent stimulus +to those who, the day before, had contemplated a trip round the +Horn. I think what chiefly amused them was their failure to smell a +rat before. "How could I have been such an ass as not to think of it +long ago?" said Beck, as he sent a nearly new quid into the sea. "Of +course, it was as plain as a pikestaff. Here we are with all these +dogs, this fine 'observation house,' with its big kitchen-range and +shiny cloth on the table, and everything else. Any fool might have +seen what it meant." I consoled him with the remark that it is always +easy to be wise after the event, and that I thought it very lucky no +one had discovered our destination prematurely.</p> + +<p>Those of us who had been obliged hitherto to keep to themselves what +they knew, and to resort to all kinds of stratagems to avoid making +any disclosure, were certainly no less pleased at being rid of the +secret; now they could talk freely to their heart's content. If we +had previously had to resort to mystification, there was now nothing +to prevent our laying our cards on the table. So many a conversation +had come to a standstill because those who had a number of questions +to ask did not dare to put them, and those who could have told held +their tongues. Hereafter it would be a very long time before we were +at a loss for subjects of conversation; a theme had suddenly presented +itself, so varied and comprehensive that it was difficult at first +to know where to begin. There were many men on board the Fram with +a wealth of experience gained during years spent within the Arctic +Circle, but to almost all of us the great Antarctic continent was +a terra incognita. I myself was the only man on board who had seen +Antarctica; perhaps one or two of my companions had in former days +passed in the vicinity of an Antarctic iceberg on a voyage round Cape +Horn, but that was all.</p> + +<p>What had previously been accomplished in the way of exploration in the +South, and the narratives of the men who had endeavoured to extend +our knowledge of that inhospitable continent, were also things that +very few of the ship's company had had time or opportunity to study, +nor had they perhaps had any reason to do so. Now there was every +possible reason. I considered it an imperative necessity that every man +should acquaint himself as far as possible with the work of previous +expeditions; this was the only way of becoming in some measure familiar +with the conditions in which we should have to work. For this reason +the Fram carried a whole library of Antarctic literature, containing +everything that has been written by the long succession of explorers +in these regions, from James Cook and James Clark Ross to Captain +Scott and Sir Ernest Shackleton. And, indeed, good use was made of +this library. The works of the two last-named explorers were in chief +request; they were read from cover to cover by all who could do so, +and, well written and excellently illustrated as these narratives are, +they were highly instructive. But if ample time was thus devoted to the +theoretical study of our problem, the practical preparations were not +neglected. As soon as we were in the trade-winds, where the virtually +constant direction and force of the wind permitted a reduction of +the watch on deck, the various specialists went to work to put our +extensive wintering outfit in the best possible order. It is true that +every precaution had been taken beforehand to have every part of the +equipment as good and as well adapted to its purpose as possible, but +the whole of it, nevertheless, required a thorough overhauling. With +so complicated an outfit as ours was, one is never really at the end +of one's work; it will always be found that some improvement or other +can be made. It will appear later that we had our hands more than +full of the preparations for the sledge journey, not only during the +long sea voyage, but also during the still longer Antarctic winter.</p> + +<p>Our sailmaker, Rönne, was transformed into a -- well, let us call it +tailor. Rönne's pride was a sewing-machine, which he had obtained from +the yard at Horten after considerable use of his persuasive tongue. His +greatest sorrow on the voyage was that, on arriving at the Barrier, he +would be obliged to hand over his treasure to the shore party. He could +not understand what we wanted with a sewing-machine at Framheim. The +first thing he did when the Fram reached Buenos Aires was to explain +to the local representative of the Singer Sewing Machine Company how +absolutely necessary it was to have his loss made good. His gift of +persuasion helped him again, and he got a new machine.</p> + +<p>For that matter, it was not surprising that Rönne was fond of his +machine. He could use it for all sorts of things -- sailmaker's, +shoemaker's, saddler's, and tailor's work was all turned out with +equal celerity. He established his workshop in the chart-house, +and there the machine hummed incessantly through the tropics, the +west wind belt, and the ice-floes too; for, quick as our sailmaker +was with his fingers, the orders poured in even more quickly. Rönne +was one of those men whose ambition it is to get as much work as +possible done in the shortest possible time, and with increasing +astonishment he saw that here he would never be finished; he might +go at it as hard as he liked -- there was always something more. To +reckon up all that he delivered from his workshop during these months +would take us too long; it is enough to say that all the work was +remarkably well done, and executed with admirable rapidity. Perhaps +one of the things he personally prided himself most on having made +was the little three-man tent which was afterwards left at the South +Pole. It was a little masterpiece of a tent, made of thin silk, which, +when folded together, would easily have gone into a fair-sized pocket, +and weighed hardly a kilogram.</p> + +<p>At this time we could not count with certainty on the possibility of +all those who made the southern journey reaching latitude 90º. On +the contrary, we had to be prepared for the probability of some +of the party being obliged to turn back. It was intended that we +should use the tent in question, in case it might be decided to let +two or three men make the final dash, and therefore it was made as +small and light as possible. Fortunately we had no need to use it, +as every man reached the goal; and we then found that the best way +of disposing of Rönne's work of art was to let it stay there as a mark.</p> + +<p>Our sailmaker had no dogs of his own to look after; he had no time +for that. On the other hand, he often assisted me in attending to +my fourteen friends up on the bridge; but he seemed to have some +difficulty in getting on terms of familiarity with the dogs and all +that belonged to them. It did not quite agree with his idea of life +on board ship to have a deck swarming with dogs. He regarded this +abnormal state of things with a sort of scornful compassion. "So you +carry dogs, too, aboard this ship," he would say, every time he came on +deck and found himself face to face with the "brutes." The poor brutes, +I am sure, made no attempt to attack Rönne's person more than anyone +else's, but he seemed for a long time to have great doubts about it. I +don't think he felt perfectly safe until the dogs had been muzzled.</p> + +<p>A part of our equipment to which we gave special care was, of course, +the ski; in all probability they would be our chief weapon in the +coming fight. However much we might have to learn from Scott's and +Shackleton's narratives, it was difficult for us to understand their +statements that the use of ski on the Barrier was not a success. From +the descriptions that were given of the nature of the surface and +the general conditions, we were forced to the opposite conclusion, +that ski were the only means to employ. Nothing was spared to provide +a good skiing outfit, and we had an experienced man in charge of it -- +Olav Bjaaland. It is sufficient to mention his name. When, on leaving +Norway, it was a question of finding a good place for our twenty pairs +of ski, we found we should have to share our own quarters with them; +they were all disposed under the ceiling of the fore-cabin. At any +rate, we had no better place to put them. Bjaaland, who during the +last month or two had tried his hand at the unaccustomed work of a +seaman, went back to his old trade of ski-maker and carpenter when +we came into the trade-winds. Both ski and bindings were delivered +ready for use by Hagen and Co., of Christiania; it remained to adapt +them, and fit the backstraps to each man's boots, so that all might +be ready for use on arrival at the Barrier. A full skiing outfit had +been provided for every man, so that those who were to be left on board +might also have a run now and then during their stay at the ice edge.</p> + +<p>For each of our ten sledges, Bjaaland made during the voyage a pair +of loose runners, which it was intended to use in the same way as the +Eskimo use theirs. These primitive people have -- or, at all events, +had -- no material that was suited for shoeing sledge-runners. They +get over the difficulty by covering the runners with a coating of +ice. No doubt it requires a great deal of practice and patience to put +on this kind of shoeing properly, but when it is once on there can be +no question that this device throws all others into the shade. As I +say, we had intended to try this on the Barrier; we found, however, +that the pulling power of our teams was so good as to allow us to +retain our steel-shod runners with an easy conscience.</p> + +<p>For the first fourteen days after leaving Madeira the north-east trade +was fresh enough to enable us to keep up our average rate, or a little +more, with the help of the sails alone. The engine was therefore +allowed a rest, and the engineers had an opportunity of cleaning +and polishing it; this they did early and late, till it seemed as if +they could never get it bright enough. Nödtvedt now had a chance of +devoting himself to the occupation which is his delight in this world +-- that of the blacksmith; and, indeed, there was opportunity enough +for his use of the hammer and anvil. If Rönne had plenty of sewing, +Nödtvedt had no less forging -- sledge-fittings, knives, pickaxes, +bars and bolts, patent hooks by the hundred for dogs, chains, and so +on to infinity. The clang and sparks of the anvil were going all day +long till we were well into the Indian Ocean. And in the westerly +belt the blacksmith's lot was not an enviable one; it is not always +easy to hit the nail on the head when one's feet rest on so unstable +a foundation as the Fram's deck, nor is it altogether pleasant when +the forge is filled with water several times a day.</p> + +<p>While we were fitting out for the voyage, the cry was constantly +raised in certain quarters at home that the old Fram's hull was in a +shocking state. It was said to be in bad repair, to leak like a sieve +-- in fact, to be altogether rotten. It throws a curious light on these +reports when we look at the voyages that the Fram has accomplished in +the last two years. For twenty months out of twenty-four she has kept +going in open sea, and that, too, in waters which make very serious +demands on a vessel's strength. She is just as good as when she sailed, +and could easily do it all over again without any repairs. We who were +on board all knew perfectly well before we sailed how groundless and +foolish these cries about her "rottenness" were; we knew, too, that +there is scarcely a wooden ship afloat on which it is not necessary +to use the pumps now and then. When the engine was stopped, we found +it was sufficient to take a ten minutes' turn at the hand-pump every +morning; that was all the "leaking" amounted to. Oh no! there was +nothing wrong with the Fram's hull. On the other hand, there might be +a word or two to say about the rigging; if this was not all it should +have been, the fault lay entirely with the plaguy considerations of our +budget. On the foremast we had two squaresails; there ought to have +been four. On the jib-boom there were two staysails; there was room +enough for three, but the money would not run to it. In the Trades +we tried to make up for the deficiency by rigging a studding-sail +alongside the foresail and a sky-sail above the topsail. I will not +assert that these improvised sails contributed to improve the vessel's +appearance, but they got her along, and that is a great deal more +important. We made very fair progress southward during these September +days, and before the month was half over we had come a good way into +the tropical belt. No particularly tropical heat was felt, at any +rate by us men; and as a rule the heat is not severely felt on board +ship in open sea so long as the vessel is moving. On a sailing-ship, +lying becalmed with the sun in the zenith, it might be warmer than +one would wish; but in case of calms we had the engine to help us, so +that there was always a little breeze -- that is, on deck. Down below +it was worse; sometimes "hoggishly mild," as Beck used to put it. Our +otherwise comfortable cabins had one fault; there were no portholes +in the ship's side, and therefore we could not get a draught; but +most of us managed without shifting our quarters. Of the two saloons, +the fore-saloon was decidedly preferable in warm weather; in a cold +climate probably the reverse would be the case. We were able to +secure a thorough draught of air forward through the alleyway leading +to the forecastle; it was difficult to get a good circulation aft, +where they also had the warm proximity of the engine. The engineers, +of course, had the hottest place, but the ever-inventive Sundbeck +devised a means of improving the ventilation of the engine-room, +so that even there they were not so badly off under the circumstances.</p> + +<p>One often hears it asked, Which is to be preferred, severe heat or +severe cold? It is not easy to give a definite answer; neither of +the two is pleasant, and it must remain a matter of taste which is +least so. On board ship no doubt most people will vote for heat, as, +even if the days are rather distressing, one has the glorious nights +to make up for them. A bitterly cold day is poorly compensated for +by an even colder night.</p> + +<p>One decided advantage of a warm climate for men who have to be +frequently in and out of their clothes and their bunks is the +simplicity of costume which it allows. When you wear hardly anything +it takes a very short time to dress.</p> + +<p>If we had been able to take the opinion of our dogs on their existence +in the tropics, they would probably have answered as one dog: "Thanks, +let us get back to rather cooler surroundings." Their coats were not +exactly calculated for a temperature of 90º in the shade, and the +worst of it was that they could not change them. It is, by the way, +a misunderstanding to suppose that these animals absolutely must have +hard frost to be comfortable; on the contrary, they prefer to be nice +and warm. Here in the tropics of course they had rather too much of +a good thing, but they did not suffer from the heat. By stretching +awnings over the whole ship we contrived that they should all be +constantly in the shade, and so long as they were not directly exposed +to the sun's rays, there was no fear of anything going wrong. How +well they came through it appears best from the fact that not one of +them was on the sick-list on account of the heat. During the whole +voyage only two deaths occurred from sickness -- one was the case of +a bitch that died after giving birth to eight pups -- which might +just as easily have caused her death under other conditions. What +was the cause of death in the other case we were unable to find out; +at any rate, it was not an infectious disease.</p> + +<p>One of our greatest fears was the possibility of an epidemic among +the dogs, but thanks to the care with which they had been picked, +there was never a sign of anything of the sort.</p> + +<p>In the neighbourhood of the Equator, between the north-east and +the south-east trades, lies what is called the "belt of calms." The +position and extent of this belt vary somewhat with the season. If +you are extremely lucky, it may happen that one trade-wind will +practically take you over into the other; but, as a rule, this region +will cause quite a serious delay to sailing-ships; either there are +frequent calms, or shifting and unsteady winds. We arrived there at +an unfavourable time of the year and lost the north-east trade as +early as ten degrees north of the line. If we had had the calms we +looked for, we could have got across with the help of the engine in +a reasonably short time, but we saw very little sign of calms. As a +rule, there was an obstinate south wind blowing, and it would not have +taken very much of it to make the last few degrees of north latitude +stiffer than we cared for.</p> + +<p>The delay was annoying enough, but we had another disappointment +of a more serious kind, for, curiously enough, we never had a +proper shower of rain. Generally in these latitudes one encounters +extremely heavy downpours, which make it possible to collect water +by the barrelful in a very short space of time. We had hoped in this +way to increase our store of fresh water, which was not so large +but that extreme economy had to be practised if we were to avoid +running short. However, this hope failed us, practically speaking. We +managed to catch a little water, but it was altogether insufficient, +and the husbanding of our supply had to be enforced in future with +authority. The dogs required their daily ration, and they got it -- +measured out to a hair's-breadth. Our own consumption was limited +to what was strictly necessary; soups were banished from the bill +of fare, they used too much of the precious fluid; washing in fresh +water was forbidden. It must not be supposed from this that we had +no opportunity of washing. We had a plentiful supply of soap, which +lathered just as well in salt water as in fresh, and was thus capable +of keeping ourselves and our clothes as clean as before. If for a time +we had felt a certain anxiety about our water-supply, these fears were +banished comparatively quickly, as the reserve we had taken in the +long-boat on deck lasted an incredibly long time, almost twice as long +as we had dared to hope, and this saved the situation, or very nearly +so. If the worst came to the worst, we should be obliged to call at one +of the numerous groups of islands that would lie in our route later on.</p> + +<p>For over six weeks the dogs had now been chained up in the places +assigned to them when they came on board. In the course of that time +most of them had become so tame and tractable that we thought we +might soon let them loose. This would be a welcome change for them, +and, what was more important, it would give them an opportunity for +exercise. To tell the truth, we also expected some amusement from +it; there would certainly be a proper shindy when all this pack got +loose. But before we gave them their liberty we were obliged to +disarm them, otherwise the inevitable free fight would be liable +to result in one or more of them being left on the battle-field, +and we could not afford that. Every one of them was provided with a +strong muzzle; then we let them loose and waited to see what would +happen. At first nothing at all happened; it looked as if they had +abandoned once for all the thought of ever moving from the spot they +had occupied so long At last a solitary individual had the bright idea +of attempting a walk along the deck. But he should not have done so; +it was dangerous to move about here. The unaccustomed sight of a +loose dog at once aroused his nearest neighbours. A dozen of them +flung themselves upon the unfortunate animal who had been the first +to leave his place, rejoicing in the thought of planting their teeth +in his sinful body. But to their disappointment the enjoyment was +not so great as they expected. The confounded strap round their jaws +made it impossible to get hold of the skin; the utmost they could do +was to pull a few tufts of hair out of the object of their violent +onslaught. This affair of outposts gave the signal for a general +engagement all along the line. What an unholy row there was for the +next couple of hours! The hair flew, but skins remained intact. The +muzzles saved a good many lives that afternoon.</p> + +<p>These fights are the chief amusement of the Eskimo dogs; they follow +the sport with genuine passion. There would be no great objection +to it if they had not the peculiar habit of always combining to set +upon a single dog, who is chosen as their victim for the occasion; +they all make for this one, and if they are left to themselves they +will not stop until they have made an end of the poor beast. In this +way a valuable dog may be destroyed in a moment.</p> + +<p>We therefore naturally made every effort from the first to quench their +love of fighting, and the dogs very soon began to understand that we +were not particularly fond of their combats; but we had here to deal +with a natural characteristic, which it was impossible to eradicate; +in any case, one could never be sure that nature would not reassert +itself over discipline. When the dogs had once been let loose, they +remained free to run about wherever they liked for the remainder +of the voyage; only at meal-times were they tied up. It was quite +extraordinary how they managed to hide themselves in every hole and +comer; on some mornings there was hardly a dog to be seen when daylight +came. Of course they visited every place where they ought not to have +gone. Several of them repeatedly took the opportunity of tumbling into +the forehold, when the hatches were open; but a fall of 25 feet did +not seem to trouble them in the least. One even found his way into +the engine-room, difficult as it might seem to gain access to it, +and curled himself up between the piston-rods. Fortunately for the +visitor, the engine was not started while he was there.</p> + +<p>When the first furious battles had been fought out, a calm soon +settled upon the dogs' spirits. It was easy to notice a feeling of +shame and disappointment in the champions when they found that all +their efforts led to nothing. The sport had lost its principal charm +as soon as they saw what a poor chance there was of tasting blood.</p> + +<p>From what has here been said, and perhaps from other accounts of the +nature of Arctic dogs, it may appear as though the mutual relations +of these animals consisted exclusively of fighting. This, however, +is far from being the case. On the contrary, they very often form +friendships, which are sometimes so strong that one dog simply cannot +live without the other. Before we let the dogs loose we had remarked +that there were a few who, for some reason or other, did not seem as +happy as they should have been: they were more shy and restless than +the others. No particular notice was taken of this, and no one tried to +find out the cause of it. The day we let them loose we discovered what +had been the matter with the ones that had moped: they had some old +friend who had chanced to be placed in some other part of the deck, +and this separation had been the cause of their low spirits. It was +really touching to see the joy they showed on meeting again; they +became quite different animals. Of course in these cases a change of +places was arranged between the different groups, so that those who +had associated from their own inclination would in future be members +of the same team.</p> + +<p>We had expected to reach the Equator by October 1, but the unfavourable +conditions of wind that we met with to the north of it caused us to be +a little behind our reckoning, though not much. On the afternoon of +October 4 the Fram crossed the line. Thus an important stage of the +voyage was concluded: the feeling that we had now reached southern +latitudes was enough to put us all in holiday humour, and we felt +we must get up a modest entertainment. According to ancient custom, +crossing the line should be celebrated by a visit from Father Neptune +himself, whose part is taken for the occasion by someone chosen +from among the ship's company. If in the course of his inspection +this august personage comes upon anyone who is unable to prove that +he has already crossed the famous circle, he is handed over at once +to the attendants, to be "shaved and baptized." This process, which +is not always carried out with exaggerated gentleness, causes much +amusement, and forms a welcome variety in the monotonous life of a +long sea voyage, and probably many on board the Fram looked forward +with eagerness to Neptune's visit, but he did not come. There simply +was no room for him on our already well-occupied deck.</p> + +<p>We contented ourselves with a special dinner, followed by coffee, +liqueurs, and cigars. Coffee was served on the fore-deck, where by +moving a number of the dogs we had contrived to get a few square yards +of space. There was no lack of entertainment. A violin and mandolin +orchestra, composed of Prestrud, Sundbeck, and Beck, contributed +several pieces, and our excellent gramophone was heard for the first +time. Just as it started the waltz from "The Count of Luxembourg," +there appeared in the companion-way a real ballet-girl, masked, and +in very short skirts. This unexpected apparition from a better world +was greeted with warm applause, which was no less vigorous when the +fair one had given proof of her skill in the art of dancing. Behind +the mask could be detected Gjertsen's face, but both costume and +dance were in the highest degree feminine. Rönne was not satisfied +until he had the "lady" on his knees -- hurrah for illusion!</p> + +<p>The gramophone now changed to a swinging American cake-walk, and at +the same moment there opportunely appeared on the scene a nigger in +a tail-coat, a silk hat, and -- a pair of wooden shoes. Black as he +was, we saw at once that it was the second in command who had thus +disguised himself. The mere sight of him was enough to set us all +shrieking with laughter, but he made his great success when he began +to dance. He was intensely amusing.</p> + +<p>It did us a great deal of good to have a little amusement just then, +for this part of the voyage was a trial of patience more than anything +else. Possibly we were rather hard to please, but the south-east trade, +which we were expecting to meet every day, was, in our opinion, far too +late in coming, and when at length it arrived, it did not behave at all +as becomes a wind that has the reputation of being the steadiest in the +world. Besides being far too light, according to our requirements, +it permitted itself such irregularities as swinging between the +points of south and east, but was mostly in the neighbourhood of +the former. For us, who had to lie all the time close-hauled to the +westward, this had the effect of increasing our western longitude a +great deal faster than our latitude. We were rapidly approaching the +north-eastern point of South America -- Cape San Roque. Fortunately +we escaped any closer contact with this headland, which shoots so far +out into the Atlantic. The wind at last shifted aft, but it was so +light that the motor had to be constantly in use. Slowly but surely +we now went southward, and the temperature again began to approach +the limits that are fitting according to a Northerner's ideas. The +tiresome, rather low awning could be removed, and it was a relief to +be rid of it, as one could then walk upright everywhere.</p> + +<p>On October 16, according to the observations at noon, we were in the +vicinity of the island of South Trinidad, one of the lonely oases +in the watery desert of the South Atlantic. It was our intention +to go close under the island, and possibly to attempt a landing; +but unfortunately the motor had to be stopped for cleaning, and +this prevented our approaching it by daylight. We caught a glimpse +of the land at dusk, which was, at all events, enough to check our +chronometers.</p> + +<p>South of the 20th degree of latitude the south-east trade was nearly +done with, and we were really not sorry to be rid of it; it remained +light and scant to the last, and sailing on a wind is not a strong +point with the Fram. In the part of the ocean where we now were there +was a hope of getting a good wind, and it was wanted if we were to +come out right: we had now covered 6,000 miles, but there were still +10,000 before us, and the days went by with astonishing rapidity. The +end of October brought the change we wanted; with a fresh northerly +breeze she went gallantly southward, and before the end of the month +we were down in lat. 40º. Here we had reached the waters where we +were almost certain to have all the wind we wished, and from the +right quarter. From now our course was eastward along what is known +as the southern west wind belt. This belt extends between the 40th +and 50th parallels all round the earth, and is distinguished by the +constant occurrence of westerly winds, which as a rule blow with great +violence. We had put our trust in these west winds; if they failed us +we should be in a mess. But no sooner had we reached their domain than +they were upon us with full force; it was no gentle treatment that we +received, but the effect was excellent -- we raced to the eastward. An +intended call at Gough Island had to be abandoned; the sea was running +too high for us to venture to approach the narrow little harbour. The +month of October had put us a good deal behindhand, but now we were +making up the distance we had lost. We had reckoned on being south of +the Cape of Good Hope within two months after leaving Madeira, and this +turned out correct. The day we passed the meridian of the Cape we had +the first regular gale; the seas ran threateningly high, but now for +the first time our splendid little ship showed what she was worth. A +single one of these gigantic waves would have cleared our decks +in an instant if it had come on board, but the Fram did not permit +any such impertinence. When they came up behind the vessel, and we +might expect at any moment to see them break over the low after-deck, +she just raised herself with an elegant movement, and the wave had +to be content with slipping underneath. An albatross could not have +managed the situation better. It is said that the Fram was built for +the ice, and that cannot, of course, be denied; but at the same time +it is certain that when Colin Archer created his famous masterpiece +of an ice boat, she was just as much a masterpiece of a sea boat -- +a vessel it would be difficult to match for seaworthiness. To be able +to avoid the seas as the Fram did, she had to roll, and this we had +every opportunity of finding out. The whole long passage through the +westerly belt was one continual rolling; but in course of time one +got used even to that discomfort. It was awkward enough, but less +disagreeable than shipping water. Perhaps it was worse for those who +had to work in the galley: it is no laughing matter to be cook, when +for weeks together you cannot put down so much as a coffee-cup without +its immediately turning a somersault. It requires both patience and +strong will to carry it through, but the two -- Lindström and Olsen +-- who looked after our food under these difficult conditions, had +the gift of taking it all from the humorous point of view, and that +was well.</p> + +<p>As regards the dogs, it mattered little to them whether a gale was +blowing, so long as the rain kept off. They hate rain; wet in any form +is the worst one can offer an Arctic dog. If the deck was wet, they +would not lie down, but would remain standing motionless for hours, +trying to take a nap in that uncomfortable position. Of course, they +did not get much sleep in that way, but to make up for it they could +sleep all day and all night when the weather was fine. South of the +Cape we lost two dogs; they went overboard one dark night when the ship +was rolling tremendously. We had a coal-bunker on the port side of the +after-deck, reaching up to the height of the bulwarks; probably these +fellows had been practising boarding drill, and lost their balance. We +took precautions that the same thing should not happen again.</p> + +<p>Fortunately for our animals, the weather in the westerly belt was +subject to very frequent changes. No doubt they had many a sleepless +night, with rain, sleet, and hail; but on the other hand they never had +to wait very long for a cheerful glimpse of the sun. The wind is for +the most part of cyclonic character, shifting suddenly from one quarter +to another, and these shifts always involve a change of weather. When +the barometer begins to fall, it is a sure warning of an approaching +north-westerly wind, which is always accompanied by precipitation, +and increases in force until the fall of the barometer ceases. When +this occurs, there follows either a short pause, or else the wind +suddenly shifts to the south-west, and blows from that quarter with +increasing violence, while the barometer rises rapidly. The change +of wind is almost always followed by a clearing of the weather.</p> + +<p>A circumstance which contributes an element of risk to navigation in +the latitudes where we found ourselves is the possibility of colliding +with an iceberg in darkness or thick weather; for it sometimes happens +that these sinister monsters in the course of their wanderings find +their way well up into the "forties." The probability of a collision +is of course in itself not very great, and it can be reduced to +a minimum by taking proper precautions. At night an attentive and +practised look-out man will always be able to see the blink of the +ice at a fairly long distance. From the time when we had to reckon +with any likelihood of meeting icebergs, the temperature of the water +was also taken every two hours during the night.</p> + +<p>As Kerguelen Island lay almost directly in the course we intended to +follow, it was decided for several reasons that we should call there, +and pay a visit to the Norwegian whaling-station. Latterly many of +the dogs had begun to grow thin, and it seemed probable that this was +owing to their not having enough fatty substances in their food; on +Kerguelen Island there would presumably be an opportunity of getting +all the fat we wanted. As to water, we had, it was true, just enough to +last us with economy, but it would do no harm to fill up the tanks. I +was also hoping that there would be a chance of engaging three or four +extra hands, for the Fram would be rather short-handed with only ten +men to sail her out of the ice and round the Horn to Buenos Aires after +the rest of us had been landed on the Barrier. Another reason for the +contemplated visit was that it would be an agreeable diversion. We now +only had to get there as quickly as possible, and the west wind helped +us splendidly; one stiff breeze succeeded another, without our having +any excessive weather. Our daily distance at this time amounted as a +rule to about one hundred and fifty miles; in one twenty-four hours +we made one hundred and seventy-four miles. This was our best day's +work of the whole voyage, and it is no bad performance for a vessel +like the Fram, with her limited sail area and her heavily-laden hull.</p> + +<p>On the afternoon of November 28 we sighted land. It was only a barren +rocky knoll, and according to our determination of the position it +would be the island called Bligh's Cap, which lies a few miles north +of Kerguelen Island; but as the weather was not very clear, and we +were unacquainted with the channels, we preferred to lie-to for the +night before approaching any nearer. Early next morning the weather +cleared, and we got accurate bearings. A course was laid for Royal +Sound, where we supposed the whaling-station to be situated. We were +going well in the fresh morning breeze, and were just about to round +the last headland, when all at once a gale sprang up again, the bare +and uninviting coast was hidden in heavy rain, and we had the choice +of waiting for an indefinite time or continuing our voyage. Without +much hesitation we chose the latter alternative. It might be tempting +enough to come in contact with other men, especially as they were +fellow-countrymen, but it was even more tempting to have done with the +remaining 4,000 miles that lay between us and the Barrier as quickly as +possible. It turned out that we had chosen rightly. December brought us +a fair wind, even fresher than that of November, and by the middle of +the month we had already covered half the distance between Kerguelen +Island and our goal. We fortified the dogs from time to time with +a liberal allowance of butter, which had a marvellous effect. There +was nothing wrong with ourselves; we were all in the best of health, +and our spirits rose as we drew nearer our goal.</p> + +<p>That the state of our health was so remarkably good during the whole +voyage must be ascribed in a material degree to the excellence of +our provisions. During the trip from home to Madeira we had lived +sumptuously on some little pigs that we took with us, but after these +luxuries we had to take to tinned meat for good. The change was not +felt much, as we had excellent and palatable things with us. There was +a separate service for the two cabins, but the food was precisely the +same in each. Breakfast was at eight, consisting of American hot cakes, +with marmalade or jam, cheese, fresh bread, and coffee or cocoa. Dinner +as a rule was composed of one dish of meat and sweets. As has already +been said, we could not afford to have soup regularly on account of +the water it required, and it was only served on Sundays. The second +course usually consisted of Californian fruit. It was our aim all +through to employ fruit, vegetables, and jam, to the greatest possible +extent; there is undoubtedly no better means of avoiding sickness. At +dinner we always drank syrup and water; every Wednesday and Saturday +we were treated to a glass of spirits. I knew from my own experience +how delicious a cup of coffee tastes when one turns out to go on +watch at night. However sleepy and grumpy one may be, a gulp of hot +coffee quickly makes a better man of one; therefore coffee for the +night watch was a permanent institution on board the Fram.</p> + +<p>By about Christmas we had reached nearly the 150th meridian in +lat. 56º S. This left not much more than 900 miles before we might +expect to meet with the pack-ice. Our glorious west wind, which had +driven us forward for weeks, and freed us from all anxiety about +arriving too late, was now a thing of the past. For a change we again +had to contend for some days with calms and contrary wind. The day +before Christmas Eve brought rain and a gale from the south-west, +which was not very cheerful. If we were to keep Christmas with any +festivity, fine weather was wanted, otherwise the everlasting rolling +would spoil all our attempts. No doubt we should all have got over +it if it had fallen to our lot to experience a Christmas Eve with +storm, shortened sail, and other delights; worse things had happened +before. On the other hand, there was not one of us who would not be +the better for a little comfort and relaxation; our life had been +monotonous and commonplace enough for a long time. But, as I said, +the day before Christmas Eve was not at all promising. The only sign +of the approaching holiday was the fact that Lindström, in spite of +the rolling, was busy baking Christmas cakes. We suggested that he +might just as well give us each our share at once, as it is well known +that the cakes are best when they come straight out of the oven, but +Lindström would not hear of it. His cakes vanished for the time being +under lock and key, and we had to be content with the smell of them.</p> + +<p>Christmas Eve arrived with finer weather and a smoother sea than we had +seen for weeks. The ship was perfectly steady, and there was nothing to +prevent our making every preparation for the festivity. As the day wore +on Christmas was in full swing. The fore-cabin was washed and cleaned +up till the Ripolin paint and the brass shone with equal brilliance; +Rönne decorated the workroom with signal flags, and the good old +"Happy Christmas" greeted us in a transparency over the door of the +saloon. Inside Nilsen was busily engaged, showing great talents as a +decorator. The gramophone was rigged up in my cabin on a board hung +from the ceiling. A proposed concert of piano, violin, and mandolin +had to be abandoned, as the piano was altogether out of tune.</p> + +<p>The various members of our little community appeared one after +another, dressed and tidied up so that many of them were scarcely +recognizable. The stubbly chins were all smooth, and that makes a +great difference. At five o'clock the engine was stopped, and all +hands assembled in the fore-cabin, leaving only the man at the wheel +on deck. Our cosy cabins had a fairy-like appearance in the subdued +light of the many-coloured lamps, and we were all in the Christmas +humour at once. The decorations did honour to him who had carried +them out and to those who had given us the greater part of them -- +Mrs. Schroer, and the proprietor of the Oyster Cellar at Christiania, +Mr. Ditlev-Hansen.</p> + +<p>Then we took our seats round the table, which groaned beneath +Lindström's masterpieces in the culinary art. I slipped behind +the curtain of my cabin for an instant, and set the gramophone +going. Herold sang us "Glade Jul."</p> + +<p>The song did not fail of its effect; it was difficult to see in the +subdued light, but I fancy that among the band of hardy men that +sat round the table there was scarcely one who had not a tear in +the corner of his eye. The thoughts of all took the same direction, +I am certain -- they flew homeward to the old country in the North, +and we could wish nothing better than that those we had left behind +should be as well off as ourselves. The melancholy feeling soon +gave way to gaiety and laughter; in the course of the dinner the +first mate fired off a topical song written by himself, which had +an immense success. In each verse the little weaknesses of someone +present were exhibited in more or less strong relief, and in between +there were marginal remarks in prose. Both in text and performance +the author fully attained the object of his work -- that of thoroughly +exercising our risible muscles.</p> + +<p>In the after-cabin a well-furnished coffee-table was set out, on +which there was a large assortment of Lindström's Christmas baking, +with a mighty kransekake from Hansen's towering in the midst. While +we were doing all possible honour to these luxuries, Lindström was +busily engaged forward, and when we went back after our coffee we +found there a beautiful Christmas-tree in all its glory. The tree was +an artificial one, but so perfectly imitated that it might have come +straight from the forest. This was also a present from Mrs. Schroer.</p> + +<p>Then came the distribution of Christmas presents. Among the many +kind friends who had thought of us I must mention the Ladies' +Committees in Horten and Fredrikstad, and the telephone employées +of Christiania. They all have a claim to our warmest gratitude for +the share they had in making our Christmas what it was -- a bright +memory of the long voyage.</p> + +<p>By ten o'clock in the evening the candles of the Christmas-tree were +burnt out, and the festivity was at an end. It had been successful +from first to last, and we all had something to live on in our thoughts +when our everyday duties again claimed us.</p> + +<p>In that part of the voyage which we now had before us -- the region +between the Australian continent and the Antarctic belt of pack-ice -- +we were prepared for all sorts of trials in the way of unfavourable +weather conditions. We had read and heard so much of what others had +had to face in these waters that we involuntarily connected them with +all the horrors that may befall a sailor. Not that we had a moment's +fear for the ship; we knew her well enough to be sure that it would +take some very extraordinary weather to do her any harm. If we were +afraid of anything, it was of delay.</p> + +<p>But we were spared either delay or any other trouble; by noon on +Christmas Day we had just what was wanted to keep our spirits at +festival pitch; a fresh north-westerly wind, just strong enough to +push us along handsomely toward our destination. It afterwards hauled +a little more to the west, and lasted the greater part of Christmas +week, until on December 30 we were in long. 170º E. and lat. 60º +S. With that we had at last come far enough to the east, and could now +begin to steer a southerly course; hardly had we put the helm over +before the wind changed to a stiff northerly breeze Nothing could +possibly be better; in this way it would not take us long to dispose +of the remaining degrees of latitude. Our faithful companions of the +westerly belt -- the albatrosses -- had now disappeared, and we could +soon begin to look out for the first representatives of the winged +inhabitants of Antarctica.</p> + +<p>After a careful consideration of the experiences of our predecessors, +it was decided to lay our course so that we should cross the 65th +parallel in long. 175º E. What we had to do was to get as quickly +as possible through the belt of pack-ice that blocked the way to +Ross Sea to the south of it, which is always open in summer. Some +ships had been detained as much as six weeks in this belt of ice; +others had gone through in a few hours. We unhesitatingly preferred +to follow the latter example, and therefore took the course that the +luckier ones had indicated.</p> + +<p>Of course, the width of the ice-belt may be subject to somewhat +fortuitous changes, but it seems, nevertheless, that as a rule the +region between the 175th and the 180th degrees of longitude offers the +best chance of getting through rapidly; in any case, one ought not to +enter the ice farther to the west. At noon on New Year's Eve we were +in lat. 62º 15' S. We had reached the end of the old year, and really +it had gone incredibly quickly. Like all its predecessors, the year +had brought its share of success and failure; but the main thing was +that at its close we found ourselves pretty nearly where we ought to +be to make good our calculations -- and all safe and well. Conscious of +this, we said good-bye to 1910 in all friendliness over a good glass of +toddy in the evening, and wished each other all possible luck in 1911.</p> + +<p>At three in the morning of New Year's Day the officer of the watch +called me with news that the first iceberg was in sight. I had to go up +and see it. Yes, there it lay, far to windward, shining like a castle +in the rays of the morning sun. It was a big, flat-topped berg of the +typical Antarctic form. It will perhaps seem paradoxical when I say +that we all greeted this first sight of the ice with satisfaction and +joy; an iceberg is usually the last thing to gladden sailors' hearts, +but we were not looking at the risk just then. The meeting with the +imposing colossus had another significance that had a stronger claim +on our interest -- the pack-ice could not be far off. We were all +longing as one man to be in it; it would be a grand variation in the +monotonous life we had led for so long, and which we were beginning +to be a little tired of. Merely to be able to run a few yards on an +ice-floe appeared to us an event of importance, and we rejoiced no +less at the prospect of giving our dogs a good meal of seal's flesh, +while we ourselves would have no objection to a little change of diet.</p> + +<p>The number of icebergs increased during the afternoon and night, +and with such neighbours it suited us very well to have daylight all +through the twenty-four hours, as we now had. The weather could not +have been better -- fine and clear, with a light but still favourable +wind. At 8 p.m. on January 2 the Antarctic Circle was crossed, +and an hour or two later the crow's-nest was able to report the +ice-belt ahead. For the time being it did not look like obstructing +us to any great extent; the floes were collected in long lines, with +broad channels of open water between them. We steered right in. Our +position was then long. 176º E. and lat. 66º 30' S. The ice immediately +stopped all swell, the vessel's deck again became a stable platform, +and after two months' incessant exercise of our sea-legs we could +once more move about freely. That was a treat in itself.</p> + +<p>At nine in the morning of the next day we had our first opportunity of +seal-hunting; a big Weddell seal was observed on a floe right ahead. It +took our approach with the utmost calmness, not thinking it worth while +to budge an inch until a couple of rifle-bullets had convinced it of +the seriousness of the situation. It then made an attempt to reach +the water, but it was too late. Two men were already on the floe, +and the valuable spoil was secured. In the course of a quarter of an +hour the beast lay on our deck, flayed and cut up by practised hands; +this gave us at one stroke at least four hundredweight of dog food, +as well as a good many rations for men. We made the same coup three +times more in the course of the day, and thus had over a ton of fresh +meat and blubber.</p> + +<p>It need scarcely be said that there was a great feast on board that +day. The dogs did their utmost to avail themselves of the opportunity; +they simply ate till their legs would no longer carry them, and we +could grant them this gratification with a good conscience. As to +ourselves, it may doubtless be taken for granted that we observed some +degree of moderation, but dinner was polished off very quickly. Seal +steak had many ardent adherents already, and it very soon gained +more. Seal soup, in which our excellent vegetables showed to advantage, +was perhaps even more favourably received.</p> + +<p>For the first twenty-four hours after we entered the ice it was so +loose that we were able to hold our course and keep up our speed for +practically the whole time. On the two following days things did +not go quite so smoothly; at times the lines of floes were fairly +close, and occasionally we had to go round. We did not meet with any +considerable obstruction, however; there were always openings enough +to enable us to keep going. In the course of January 6 a change took +place, the floes became narrower and the leads broader. By 6 p.m. there +was open sea on every side as far as the eye could reach. The day's +observations gave our position as lat. 70º S., long. 180º E.</p> + +<p>Our passage through the pack had been a four days' pleasure trip, +and I have a suspicion that several among us looked back with secret +regret to the cruise in smooth water through the ice-floes when the +swell of the open Ross Sea gave the Fram another chance of showing +her rolling capabilities.</p> + +<p>But this last part of the voyage was also to be favoured by +fortune. These comparatively little-known waters had no terrors to +oppose to us. The weather continued surprisingly fine; it could not +have been better on a summer trip in the North Sea. Of icebergs there +was practically none; a few quite small floebergs were all we met +with in the four days we took to cross Ross Sea.</p> + +<p>About midday on January 11 a marked brightening of the southern sky +announced that it was not far to the goal we had been struggling to +reach for five months. At 2.30 p.m. we came in sight of the Great +Ice Barrier. Slowly it rose up out of the sea until we were face +to face with it in all its imposing majesty. It is difficult with +the help of the pen to give any idea of the impression this mighty +wall of ice makes on the observer who is confronted with it for the +first time. It is altogether a thing which can hardly be described; +but one can understand very well that this wall of 100 feet in height +was regarded for a generation as an insuperable obstacle to further +southward progress.</p> + +<p>We knew that the theory of the Barrier's impregnability had long ago +been overthrown; there was an opening to the unknown realm beyond +it. This opening -- the Bay of Whales -- ought to lie, according +to the descriptions before us, about a hundred miles to the east of +the position in which we were. Our course was altered to true east, +and during a cruise of twenty-four hours along the Barrier we had +every opportunity of marvelling at this gigantic work of Nature. It +was not without a certain feeling of suspense that we looked forward +to our arrival at the harbour we were seeking What state should we +find it in? Would it prove impossible to land at all conveniently?</p> + +<p>One point after another was passed, but still our anxious eyes were +met by nothing but the perpendicular wall. At last, on the afternoon +of January 12, the wall opened. This agreed with our expectations; +we were now in long. 164º, the selfsame point where our predecessors +had previously found access.</p> + +<p>We had before us a great bay, so deep that it was impossible to see +the end of it from the crow's-nest; but for the moment there was no +chance of getting in. The bay was full of great floes -- sea-ice -- +recently broken up. We therefore went on a little farther to the +eastward to await developments. Next morning we returned, and after +the lapse of a few hours the floes within the bay began to move. One +after another they came sailing out: the passage was soon free.</p> + +<p>As we steered up the bay, we soon saw clearly that here we had every +chance of effecting a landing. All we had to do was to choose the +best place.</p> + +<p> +CHAPTER V</p> + +<p>On the Barrier</p> + +<p>We had thus arrived on January 14 -- a day earlier than we had reckoned +-- at this vast, mysterious, natural phenomenon -- the Barrier. One +of the most difficult problems of the expedition was solved -- that +of conveying our draught animals in sound condition to the field +of operations. We had taken 97 dogs on board at Christiansand; the +number had now increased to 116, and practically all of these would +be fit to serve in the final march to the South.</p> + +<p>The next great problem that confronted us was to find a suitable place +on the Barrier for our station. My idea had been to get everything -- +equipment and provisions -- conveyed far enough into the Barrier to +secure us against the unpleasant possibility of drifting out into +the Pacific in case the Barrier should be inclined to calve. I had +therefore fixed upon ten miles as a suitable distance from the edge +of the Barrier. But even our first impression of the conditions +seemed to show that we should be spared a great part of this long +and troublesome transport. Along its outer edge the Barrier shows an +even, flat surface; but here, inside the bay, the conditions were +entirely different. Even from the deck of the Fram we were able to +observe great disturbances of the surface in every direction; huge +ridges with hollows between them extended on all sides. The greatest +elevation lay to the south in the form of a lofty, arched ridge, which +we took to be about 500 feet high on the horizon. But it might be +assumed that this ridge continued to rise beyond the range of vision.</p> + +<p>Our original hypothesis that this bay was due to underlying land +seemed, therefore, to be immediately confirmed. It did not take long +to moor the vessel to the fixed ice-foot, which here extended for +about a mile and a quarter beyond the edge of the Barrier. Everything +had been got ready long before. Bjaaland had put our ski in order, +and every man had had his right pairs fitted. Ski-boots had long ago +been tried on, time after time, sometimes with one, sometimes with two +pairs of stockings. Of course it turned out that the ski-boots were on +the small side. To get a bootmaker to make roomy boots is, I believe, +an absolute impossibility. However, with two pairs of stockings we +could always get along in the neighbourhood of the ship. For longer +journeys we had canvas boots, as already mentioned.</p> + +<p>Of the remainder of our outfit I need only mention the Alpine ropes, +which had also been ready for some time. They were about 30 yards long, +and were made of very fine rope, soft as silk, specially suited for +use in low temperatures.</p> + +<p>After a hurried dinner four of us set out. This first excursion +was quite a solemn affair; so much depended on it. The weather was +of the very best, calm with brilliant sunshine, and a few light, +feathery clouds in the beautiful, pale blue sky. There was warmth in +the air which could be felt, even on this immense ice-field. Seals +were lying along the ice-foot as far as the eye could reach -- great, +fat mountains of flesh; food enough to last us and the dogs for years.</p> + +<p>The going was ideal; our ski glided easily and pleasantly through the +newly fallen loose snow. But none of us was exactly in training after +the long five months' sea voyage, so that the pace was not great. After +half an hour's march we were already at the first important point -- +the connection between the sea-ice and the Barrier. This connection had +always haunted our brains. What would it be like? A high, perpendicular +face of ice, up which we should have to haul our things laboriously +with the help of tackles? Or a great and dangerous fissure, which +we should not be able to cross without going a long way round? We +naturally expected something of the sort. This mighty and terrible +monster would, of course, offer resistance in some form or other.</p> + +<p>The mystic Barrier! All accounts without exception, from the days +of Ross to the present time, had spoken of this remarkable natural +formation with apprehensive awe. It was as though one could always +read between the lines the same sentence: "Hush, be quiet! the mystic +Barrier !"</p> + +<p>One, two, three, and a little jump, and the Barrier was surmounted!</p> + +<p>We looked at each other and smiled; probably the same thought was in +the minds of all of us. The monster had begun to lose something of +its mystery, the terror something of its force; the incomprehensible +was becoming quite easy to understand.</p> + +<p>Without striking a blow we had entered into our kingdom. The Barrier +was at this spot about 20 feet high, and the junction between it +and the sea-ice was completely filled up with driven snow, so that +the ascent took the form of a little, gentle slope. This spot would +certainly offer us no resistance.</p> + +<p>Hitherto we had made our advance without a rope. The sea-ice, we knew, +would offer no hidden difficulties; but what would be the condition +of things beyond the Barrier was another question. And as we all +thought it would be better to have the rope on before we fell into +a crevasse than afterwards, our further advance was made with a rope +between the first two.</p> + +<p>We proceeded in an easterly direction up through a little valley formed +by "Mount Nelson" on one side, and "Mount Rönniken" on the other. The +reader must not, however, imagine from these imposing names that we +were walking between any formidable mountain-ranges. Mounts Nelson +and Rönniken were nothing but two old pressure ridges that had been +formed in those far-off days when the mighty mass of ice had pushed +on with awful force without meeting hindrance or resistance, until +at this spot it met a superior power that clove and splintered it, +and set a bound to its further advance. It must have been a frightful +collision, like the end of a world. But now it was over: peace -- an +air of infinite peace lay over it all. Nelson and Rönniken were only +two pensioned veterans. Regarded as pressure ridges they were huge, +raising their highest summits over 100 feet in the air. Here in the +valley the surface round Nelson was quite filled up, while Rönniken +still showed a deep scar -- a fissure or hollow. We approached it +cautiously. It was not easy to see how deep it was, and whether it +had an invisible connection with Nelson on the other side of the +valley. But this was not the case. On a closer examination this deep +cleft proved to have a solid, filled-up bottom. Between the ridges +the surface was perfectly flat, and offered an excellent site for +a dog-camp.</p> + +<p>Captain Nilsen and I had worked out a kind of programme of the work to +be done, and in this it was decided that the dogs should be brought +on to the Barrier as quickly as possible, and there looked after +by two men. We chose this place for the purpose. The old pressure +ridges told the history of the spot plainly enough; we had no need +to fear any kind of disturbance here. The site had the additional +advantage that we could see the ship from it, and would always be in +communication with those on board.</p> + +<p>From here the valley turned slightly to the south. After having +marked the spot where our first tent was to be set up, we continued +our investigations. The valley sloped gradually upwards, and reached +the ridge at a height of 100 feet. From this elevation we had an +excellent view over the valley we had been following, and all the other +surroundings. On the north the Barrier extended, level and straight, +apparently without interruption, and ended on the west in the steep +descent of Cape Man's Head, which formed the eastern limit of the inner +part of the Bay of Whales, and afforded a snug little corner, where we +had found room for our ship. There lay the whole of the inner part of +the bay, bounded on all sides by ice, ice and nothing but ice-Barrier +as far as we could see, white and blue. This spot would no doubt show +a surprising play of colour later on; it promised well in this way.</p> + +<p>The ridge we were standing on was not broad -- about two hundred yards, +I think -- and in many places it was swept quite bare by the wind, +showing the blue ice itself. We passed over it and made for the pass +of Thermopylae, which extended in a southerly direction from the +ridge and after a very slight descent was merged in a great plain, +surrounded by elevations on all sides -- a basin, in fact. The bare +ridge we passed over to descend into the basin was a good deal broken +up; but the fissures were narrow, and almost entirely filled up again +with drift, so that they were not dangerous. The basin gave us the +impression of being sheltered and cosy, and, above all, it looked +safe and secure. This stretch of ice was -- with the exception of a +few quite small hummocks of the shape of haycocks -- perfectly flat +and free from crevasses.</p> + +<p>We crossed it, and went up on the ridge that rose very gently on the +south. From the top of this all was flat and even as far as we could +see; but that was not saying much. For a little while we continued +along the ridge in an easterly direction without finding any place +that was specially suited for our purpose. Our thoughts returned to +the basin as the best sheltered place we had seen.</p> + +<p>From the height we were now on, we could look down into the +south-eastern part of the Bay of Whales. In contrast to that part +of the ice-foot to which we had made fast, the inner bay seemed to +consist of ice that had been forced up by pressure. But we had to leave +a closer examination of this part till later. We all liked the basin, +and agreed to choose it as our future abode, And so we turned and went +back again. It did not take long to reach the plain in our own tracks.</p> + +<p>On making a thorough examination of the surface and discussing the +various possibilities, we came to the conclusion that a site for the +hut was to be looked for on the little elevation that rose to the +east. It seemed that we should be more snug there than anywhere else, +and we were not mistaken. We soon made up our minds that we had chosen +the best place the Barrier had to offer. On the spot where the hut +was to stand we set up another ski-pole, and then went home.</p> + +<p>The good news that we had already found a favourable place for the +hut naturally caused great satisfaction on all sides. Everyone had +been silently dreading the long and troublesome transport over the +Ice Barrier.</p> + +<p>There was teeming life on the ice. Wherever we turned we saw great +herds of seals -- Weddells and crab-eaters. The great sea-leopard, +which we had seen occasionally on the floes, was not to be found +here. During our whole stay in the Bay of Whales we did not see a +single specimen of it. Nor did we ever see the Ross seal. Penguins had +not shown themselves particularly often, only a few here and there; +but we appreciated them all the more. The few we saw were almost all +Adélie penguins. While we were at work making the ship fast, a flock of +them suddenly shot up out of the water and on to the ice. They looked +about them in surprise for a moment: men and ships do not come their +way every day. But it seemed as if their astonishment soon gave way to +a desire to see what was happening. They positively sat and studied +all our movements. Only now and then they grunted a little and took +a turn over the ice. What specially interested them was evidently +our work at digging holes in the snow for the grapnels. They flocked +about the men who were engaged in this, laid their heads on one side, +and looked as if they found it immensely interesting. They did not +appear to be the least afraid of us, and for the most part we left +them in peace. But some of them had to lose their lives; we wanted +them for our collection.</p> + +<p>An exciting seal-hunt took place the same day. Three crab-eaters had +ventured to approach the ship, and were marked down to increase our +store of fresh meat. We picked two mighty hunters to secure the prey +for us; they approached with the greatest caution, though this was +altogether unnecessary, for the seals lay perfectly motionless. They +crept forward in Indian fashion, with their heads down and their +backs bent. This looks fine; I chuckle and laugh, but still with a +certain decorum. Then there is a report. Two of the sleeping seals +give a little spasm, and do not move again. It is otherwise with the +third. With snakelike movements it wriggles away through the loose snow +with surprising speed. It is no longer target practice, but hunting +real game, and the result is in keeping with it. Bang! bang! and +bang again. It is a good thing we have plenty of ammunition. One of +the hunters uses up all his cartridges and has to go back, but the +other sets off in pursuit of the game. Oh, how I laughed! Decorum +was no longer possible; I simply shook with laughter. Away they +went through the loose snow, the seal first and the hunter after. I +could see by the movements of the pursuer that he was furious. He +saw that he was in for something which he could not come out of with +dignity. The seal made off at such a pace that it filled the air with +snow. Although the snow was fairly deep and loose, the seal kept on +the surface. Not so the hunter: he sank over the knees at every step, +and in a short time was completely outdistanced. From time to time +he halted, aimed, and fired. He himself afterwards asserted that +every shot had hit. I had my doubts. In any case the seal seemed to +take no notice of them, for it went on with undiminished speed. At +last the mighty man gave up and turned back. "Beastly hard to kill," +I heard him say, as he came on board. I suppressed a smile -- did +not want to hurt the fellow's feelings.</p> + +<p>What an evening! The sun is high in the heavens in spite of the late +hour. Over all this mountainous land of ice, over the mighty Barrier +running south, there lies a bright, white, shining light, so intense +that it dazzles the eyes. But northward lies the night. Leaden grey +upon the sea, it passes into deep blue as the eye is raised, and pales +by degrees until it is swallowed up in the radiant gleam from the +Barrier. What lies behind the night -- that smoke-black mass -- we +know. That part we have explored, and have come off victorious. But +what does the dazzling day to the south conceal? Inviting and +attractive the fair one lies before us. Yes, we hear you calling, +and we shall come. You shall have your kiss, if we pay for it with +our lives.</p> + +<p>The following day -- Sunday -- brought the same fine weather. Of +course, there could now be no thought of Sunday for us. Not one of +us would have cared to spend the day in idleness. We were now divided +into two parties: the sea party and the land party. The sea party -- +ten men -- took over the Fram, while on this day the land party took +up their abode on the Barrier for a year or two, or whatever it might +be. The sea party was composed of Nilsen, Gjertsen, Beck, Sundbeck, +Ludvig Hansen, Kristensen, Rönne, Nödtvedt, Kutschin, and Olsen. The +land party consisted of Prestrud, Johansen, Helmer Hanssen, Hassel, +Bjaaland, Stubberud, Lindström, and myself. Lindström was to stay +on board for a few days longer, as we still had to take most of our +meals on the ship. The plan was that one party, composed of six men, +should camp in a sixteen-man tent in the space between Rönniken and +Nelson, while another party of two were to live in a tent up at the +but site and build the hut. The two last were, of course, our capable +carpenters, Bjaaland and Stubberud.</p> + +<p>By eleven o'clock in the morning we were at last ready to start. We had +one sledge, eight dogs and provisions and equipment weighing altogether +660 pounds. It was my team that was to open the ball. The sea party +had all collected on deck to witness the first start. All was now +ready; after countless efforts on our part, or, if it is preferred, +after a thorough thrashing for every dog, we had at last got them in a +line before the sledge in Alaska harness. With a flourish and a crack +of the whip we set off. I glanced at the ship. Yes; as I thought -- +all our comrades were standing in a row, admiring the fine start. I am +not quite sure that I did not hold my head rather high and look round +with a certain air of triumph. If I did so, it was foolish of me. I +ought to have waited; the defeat would have been easier to bear. For +defeat it was, and a signal one. The dogs had spent half a year in +lying about and eating and drinking, and had got the impression that +they would never have anything else to do. Not one of them appeared +to understand that a new era of toil had begun. After moving forward +a few yards, they all sat down, as though at a word of command, +and stared at each other. The most undisguised astonishment could be +read in their faces. When at last we had succeeded, with another dose +of the whip, in making them understand that we really asked them to +work, instead of doing as they were told they flew at each other in a +furious scrimmage. Heaven help me! what work we had with those eight +dogs that day! If it was going to be like this on the way to the Pole, +I calculated in the midst of the tumult that it would take exactly a +year to get there, without counting the return journey. During all this +confusion I stole another glance at the ship, but the sight that met me +made me quickly withdraw my eyes again. They were simply shrieking with +laughter, and loud shouts of the most infamous encouragement reached +us. "If you go on like that, you'll get there by Christmas," or, +"Well done! stick to it. Now you're off." We were stuck faster than +ever. Things looked desperate. At last, with the combined strength +of all the animals and men, we got the sledge to move again.</p> + +<p>So our first sledge trip could not be called a triumph. We then set +up our first tent on the Barrier, between Mounts Nelson and Rönniken +-- a large, strong tent for sixteen men, with the sheet for the floor +sewed on. Round the tent wire ropes were stretched in a triangle, fifty +yards on each side. To these the dogs were to be tethered. The tent was +furnished with five sleeping-bags and a quantity of provisions. The +distance we had come was 1.2 geographical miles, or 2.2 kilometres, +measured by sledge-meter. After finishing this work, we went on up +to the site selected for the station. Here we set up the tent -- +a similar tent to the other, for sixteen men -- for the use of the +carpenters, and marked out the hut site. According to the lie of +the ground we elected to make the house face east and west, and not +north and south, as one might have been tempted to do, since it was +usually supposed that the most frequent and violent winds came from +the south. We chose rightly. The prevailing wind was from the east, +and thus caught our house on its most protected short wall. The door +faced west. When this work was done, we marked out the way from here +to the encampment below and thence to the vessel with dark flags +at every fifteen paces. In this way we should be able to drive with +certainty from one place to another without losing time if a storm +should set in. The distance from the hut site to the vessel was 2.2 +geographical miles, or 4 kilometres. On Monday, January 16, work began +in earnest. About eighty dogs -- six teams -- drove up to the first +encampment with all the provisions and equipment that could be loaded +on the sledges, and twenty dogs -- Stubberud's and Bjaaland's teams -- +went with a full load up to the other camp. We had some work indeed, +those first days, to get the dogs to obey us. Time after time they +tried to take the command from their masters and steer their own +course. More than once it cost us a wet shirt to convince them that +we really were the masters. It was strenuous work, but it succeeded +in the end. Poor dogs! they got plenty of thrashing in those days. Our +hours were long; we seldom turned in before eleven at night, and were +up again at five. But it did not seem particularly hard; we were +all alike eager for the work to be finished as soon as possible, +so that the Fram might get away. The harbour arrangements were not +of the best. The quay she was moored to suddenly broke in pieces, +and all hands had to turn out to make her fast to a new quay. Perhaps +they had just got to sleep again when the same operation had to be +repeated; for the ice broke time after time, and kept the unfortunate +"sea-rovers" in constant activity. It is enervating work being always +at one's post, and sleeping with one eye open. They had a hard time to +contend with, our ten comrades, and the calm way in which they took +everything was extraordinary. They were always in a good humour, and +always had a joke ready. It was the duty of the sea party to bring up +all the provisions and outfit for the wintering party from the hold, +and put them on the ice. Then the land party removed them. This work +proceeded very smoothly, and it was rare that one party had to wait +for the other. During the first few days of sledging all the members +of the land party became quite hoarse, some of them so badly that +they almost lost their voices. This came from the continual yelling +and shouting that we had to do at first to make the dogs go. But this +gave the sea party a welcome opportunity of finding us a nickname; +we were called "the chatterers."</p> + +<p>Apart from the unpleasantness of constantly changing the anchorage, +on account of the breaking up and drifting out of the ice, the +harbour must in other respects be regarded as very good. A little +swell might set in from time to time and cause some disagreeable +bumping, but never anything to embarrass the vessel. One very great +advantage was that the currents in this corner always set outward, +and thus kept off all icebergs. The sledging between the ship and +the Barrier was done by five men to begin with, as the carpenters +were engaged in building the house. One man had also to be told off +as tent guard, for we could not use more than half our teams -- six +dogs -- at a time. If we harnessed the full team of twelve, we only +had trouble and fights. The dogs which were thus left behind had to +be looked after, and a man was required for this duty. Another of +the duties of the tent guard was to cook the day's food and keep the +tent tidy. It was a coveted position, and lots were cast for it. It +gave a little variety in the continual sledging.</p> + +<p>On January 17 the carpenters began to dig the foundations of the +house. The effect of all we had heard about the Antarctic storms was +that we decided to take every possible precaution to make the house +stand on an even keel. The carpenters therefore began by digging +a foundation 4 feet down into the Barrier. This was not easy work; +2 feet below the surface they came upon hard, smooth ice, and had to +use pickaxes. The same day a stiff easterly breeze sprang up, whirling +the snow high into the air, and filling up the foundations as fast +as the men dug them. But it would take more than that to stop those +fellows in their work. They built a wind-screen of planks, and did +it so well that they were able to work all day, unhindered by drifts, +until, when evening came, they had the whole foundation dug out. There +is no difficulty in doing good work when one has such people to work +for one. The stormy weather interfered somewhat with our sledging, +and as we found our Alaska harness unsuitable to the conditions, +we went on board and began the preparation of Greenland harness for +our dogs. All hands worked at it. Our excellent sailmaker, Rönne, +sewed forty-six sets of harness in the course of the month. The rest +of us spliced the ropes and made the necessary tackles, while others +spliced wire-rope shafts to our sledges. When evening came we had +an entirely new set of tackle for all our sledges and dogs. This was +very successful, and in a few days the whole was working smoothly.</p> + +<p>We had now divided ourselves between the two tents, so that five men +slept in the lower tent, while the two carpenters and I inhabited the +upper one. That evening a rather amusing thing happened to us. We were +just turning in when suddenly we heard a penguin's cry immediately +outside the tent. We were out in a moment. There, a few yards from the +door, sat a big Emperor penguin, making bow after bow. It gave exactly +the impression of having come up simply to pay us its respects. We +were sorry to repay its attention so poorly, but such is the way of +the world. With a final bow it ended its days in the frying-pan.</p> + +<p>On January 18 we began bringing up the materials for the hut, +and as soon as they arrived the builders began to put them up. It +is no exaggeration to say that everything went like a well-oiled +machine. One sledge after another drove up to the site and discharged +its load. The dogs worked splendidly, and their drivers no less, +and as fast as the materials arrived our future home rose into +the air. All the parts had been marked before leaving Norway, +and were now discharged from the ship in the order in which they +were wanted. Besides which, Stubberud himself had built the house, +so that he knew every peg of it. It is with gladness and pride that +I look back upon those days. With gladness, because no discord was +ever heard in the course of this fairly severe labour; with pride, +because I was at the head of such a body of men. For men they were, +in the true sense of the word. Everyone knew his duty, and did it.</p> + +<p>During the night the wind dropped and the morning brought the +finest weather, calm and clear. It was a pleasure to work on days +like this. Both men and dogs were in the best of spirits. On these +journeys between the ship and the station we were constantly hunting +seals, but we only took those that came in our way. We never had to +go far to find fresh meat. We used to come suddenly upon a herd of +them; they were then shot, flayed, and loaded on the sledges with the +provisions and building materials. The dogs feasted in those days -- +they had as much warm flesh as they wanted.</p> + +<p>On January 20 we had taken up all the building materials, and could +then turn our attention to provisions and stores. The work went +merrily, backwards and forwards, and the journey to the Fram in the +morning with empty sledges was specially enjoyable. The track was +now well worn and hard, and resembled a good Norwegian country road +more than anything else. The going was splendid. On coming out of the +tent at six o'clock in the morning one was instantly greeted with +joy by one's own twelve dogs. They barked and howled in emulation, +tugged and jerked at their chains to get to their master, and jumped +and danced about with joy. Then one would first go down the line and +say "Good-morning" to each of them in turn, patting them and saying a +few words. Splendid beasts they were. The one who was taken notice of +showed every sign of happiness. The most petted of our domestic dogs +could not have shown greater devotion than these tamed wolves. All the +time the others were yelling and pulling at their chains to get at the +one who was being petted, for they are jealous in the extreme. When +they had all received their share of attention the harness was brought +out, and then the jubilation broke out afresh. Strange as it may +seem, I can assert that these animals love their harness. Although +they must know that it means hard work, they all show signs of the +greatest rapture at the sight of it. I must hasten to add, however, +that this only happens at home. Long and fatiguing sledge journeys +show a very different state of things. When it came to harnessing, +the first trouble of the day began. It was impossible to get them to +stand still. The full meal of the previous evening, followed by the +night's rest, had given them such a superabundance of energy and joy +of life that nothing could make them stand still. They had to have a +taste of the whip, and yet it was a pity to start that. After having +securely anchored the sledge, one was ready at last with one's team +of six dogs harnessed. Now it might be thought that all was plain +sailing and that one had only to cast off one's moorings and be taken +straight down to the ship. But that was far from being the case. Round +about the camp a number of objects had collected in a short time, +such as packing-cases, building materials, empty sledges, etc., and to +steer clear of these was the great problem of the morning. The dogs' +greatest interest was, of course, concentrated upon these objects, +and one had to be extremely lucky to avoid a spill.</p> + +<p>Let us follow one of these morning drives. The men are all ready +and have their dogs well harnessed. One, two, three, and we let them +all go at once. We are off like the wind, and before one has time to +swing the whip one finds oneself in the middle of a heap of building +materials. The dogs have achieved the desire of their lives -- to +be able to make a thorough investigation of these materials in the +way that is so characteristic of the dog and so incomprehensible +to us. While this process is going on with the greatest enjoyment, +the driver has got clear of the sledge and begins to distentangle +the traces, which have wound themselves round planks and posts and +whatever else maybe lying handy. He is far from having achieved the +desire of his life -- to judge from the expressions he uses. At last +he is clear again. He looks round first and finds he is not the only +one who has met with difficulties in the way. Over there among the +cases he sees a performance going on which makes his heart leap with +joy. One of the old hands has come to grief, and in so decisive a +fashion that it will take him a long time to get clear again. With a +triumphant smile he throws himself on the sledge and drives off. So +long as he is on the Barrier as a rule everything goes well; there +is nothing here to distract the dogs. It is otherwise when he comes +down to the sea-ice. Here seals lie scattered about in groups basking +in the sunshine, and it may easily happen that his course will be +rather crooked. If a team of fresh dogs have made up their minds +to turn aside in the direction of a herd of seals, it takes a very +experienced driver to get them in the right way again. Personally, +on such occasions, I used the only remedy I could see -- namely, +capsizing the sledge. In loose snow with the sledge upset they soon +pulled up. Then, if one was wise, one put them on the right course +again quietly and calmly, hoisted the sledge on to an even keel, +and went on. But one is not always wise, unfortunately. The desire to +be revenged on the disobedient rascals gets the upper hand, and one +begins to deal out punishment. But this is not so easy as it seems. So +long as you are sitting on the capsized sledge it makes a good anchor, +but now -- without a load -- it is no use, and the dogs know that. So +while you are thrashing one the others start off, and the result is +not always flattering to the driver. If he is lucky he gets on to the +capsized sledge again, but we have seen dogs and sledges arrive without +drivers. All this trouble in the early morning sets the blood in active +circulation, and one arrives at the ship drenched with perspiration, +in spite of a temperature of -5ºF. But it sometimes happens that there +is no interruption, and then the drive is soon over. The dogs want +no encouragement; they are willing enough. The mile and a quarter +from the lower camp to the Fram is then covered in a few minutes.</p> + +<p>When we came out of the tent on the morning of January 21 we were +greatly surprised. We thought we must be mistaken, rubbed our eyes, +opened them wider; but no, it was no good. The Fram was no longer +to be seen. It had been blowing pretty strongly during the night, +with snow-squalls. Presumably the weather had forced them to put +out. We could also hear the roar of the sea dashing against the +Barrier. Meanwhile we lost no time. The day before Captain Nilsen and +Kristensen had shot forty seals, and of these we had brought in half +the same day. We now began to fetch in the rest. During the forenoon, +while we were flaying and shooting seals, we heard the old, well-known +sound -- put, put, put -- of the Fram's motor, and presently the +crow's-nest appeared above the Barrier. But she did not get into her +old berth before evening. A heavy swell had forced her to go outside.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the carpenters were busily constructing the hut. By January +21 the roof was on, and the rest of the work could thus be done under +cover. This was a great comfort to the men; at that time their job +was undoubtedly the worst of any. Bitterly cold it was for them, +but I never heard them talk about it. When I came up to the tent +after the day's work, one of them was busy cooking. The meal always +consisted of pancakes and pitch-black, strong coffee. How good it +tasted! A rivalry soon arose between the two cook-carpenters as to +which of them could make the best pancakes. I think they were both +clever at it. In the morning we had pancakes again -- crisp, hot, +delicate pancakes, with the most glorious coffee -- before I was even +out of my sleeping-bag. That is what the carpenters had to offer me at +five o'clock in the morning. No wonder I enjoyed their society. Nor +did the men in the lower camp suffer any privation. Wisting showed +himself to be possessed of eminent talents as cook for the day. His +special dish was penguins and skua gulls in cream sauce. It was served +under the name of ptarmigan, of which it really reminded one.</p> + +<p>That Sunday we all went on board -- with the exception of the necessary +tent guards for both camps -- and enjoyed life. We had worked hard +enough that week.</p> + +<p>On Monday, January 23, we began to carry up the provisions. In order +to save time, we had decided not to bring the provisions right up to +the hut, but to store them for the time being on an elevation that +lay on the other side, to the south of Mount Nelson. This spot was +not more than 600 yards from the hut, but as the surface was rather +rough here, we should save a good deal in the long-run. Afterwards +when the Fram had sailed, we could take them the rest of the way. As +it turned out, we never had time for this, so that our main store +remained here. Sledging up to this point offered some difficulties at +first. The dogs, who were accustomed to take the road to the lower camp +-- between Nelson and Rönniken -- could not understand why they might +not do the same now. The journey with empty sledges down to the ship +was often particularly troublesome. From this point the dogs could +hear their companions on the other side of Nelson in the lower camp, +and then it happened more than once that the dogs took command. If they +once got in the humour for playing tricks of that sort, it was by no +means easy to get them under control. We all of us had this experience +without exception. Not one of us escaped this little extra turn. As +the provisions came up each driver took them off his sledge, and laid +the cases in the order in which they should lie. We began by placing +each sort by itself in small groups over the slope. This plan had the +advantage that everything would be easy to find. The load was usually +660 pounds, or 6 cases to each sledge. We had about 900 cases to bring +up, and reckoned that we should have them all in place in the course +of a week. Everything went remarkably well according to our reckoning.</p> + +<p>By noon on Saturday, January 28, the hut was ready, and all the 900 +cases were in place. The depot of provisions had quite an imposing +appearance. Great rows of cases stood in the snow, all with their +numbers outward, so that we could find what we wanted at once. And +there was the house, all finished, exactly as it had stood in its +native place on Bundefjord. But it would be difficult to imagine more +different surroundings: there, green pinewoods and splashing water; +here, ice, nothing but ice. But both scenes were beautiful; I stood +thinking which I preferred. My thoughts travelled far -- thousands +of miles in a second. It was the forest that gained the day.</p> + +<p>As I have already mentioned, we had everything with us for fastening +the but down to the Barrier, but the calm weather we had had all the +time led us to suppose that the conditions would not be so bad as we +had expected. We were therefore satisfied with the foundation dug in +the Barrier. The outside of the but was tarred, and the roof covered +with tarred paper, so that it was very visible against the white +surroundings. That afternoon we broke up both camps, and moved into +our home, "Framheim." What a snug, cosy, and cleanly impression it +gave us when we entered the door! Bright, new linoleum everywhere -- +in the kitchen as well as in our living-room. We had good reason to be +happy. Another important point had been got over, and in much shorter +time than I had ever hoped. Our path to the goal was opening up; we +began to have a glimpse of the castle in the distance. The Beauty is +still sleeping, but the kiss is coming, the kiss that shall wake her!</p> + +<p>It was a happy party that assembled in the hut the first evening, +and drank to the future to the music of the gramophone. All the +full-grown dogs were now brought up here, and were fastened to +wire ropes stretched in a square, 50 yards on each side. It may be +believed that they gave us some music. Collected as they were, they +performed under the leadership of some great singer or other daily, +and, what was worse, nightly concerts. Strange beasts! what can they +have meant by this howling? One began, then two, then a few more, and, +finally, the whole hundred. As a rule, during a concert like this they +sit well down, stretch their heads as high in the air as they can, +and howl to their hearts' content. During this act they seem very +preoccupied, and are not easily disturbed. But the strangest thing +is the way the concert comes to an end. It stops suddenly along the +whole line -- no stragglers, no "one cheer more." What is it that +imposes this simultaneous stop? I have observed and studied it time +after time without result. One would think it was a song that had been +learnt. Do these animals possess a power of communicating with each +other? The question is extraordinarily interesting. No one among us, +who has had long acquaintance with Eskimo dogs, doubts that they have +this power. I learned at last to understand their different sounds +so well that I could tell by their voices what was going on without +seeing them. Fighting, play, love-making, etc., each had its special +sound. If they wanted to express their devotion and affection for +their master, they would do it in a quite different way. If one of +them was doing something wrong -- something they knew they were not +allowed to do, such as breaking into a meat-store, for example -- +the others, who could not get in, ran out and gave vent to a sound +quite different from those I have mentioned. I believe most of us +learned to distinguish these different sounds. There can hardly be +a more interesting animal to observe, or one that offers greater +variety of study, than the Eskimo dog. From his ancestor the wolf +he has inherited the instinct of self-preservation -- the right of +the stronger -- in a far higher degree than our domestic dog. The +struggle for life has brought him to early maturity, and given him +such qualities as frugality and endurance in an altogether surprising +degree. His intelligence is sharp, clear, and well developed for the +work he is born to, and the conditions in which he is brought up. We +must not call the Eskimo dog slow to learn because he cannot sit up +and take sugar when he is told; these are things so widely separated +from the serious business of his life that he will never be able to +understand them, or only with great difficulty. Among themselves the +right of the stronger is the only law. The strongest rules, and does +as he pleases undisputedly; everything belongs to him. The weaker ones +get the crumbs. Friendship easily springs up between these animals -- +always combined with respect and fear of the stronger. The weaker, +with his instinct of self-preservation, seeks the protection of the +stronger. The stronger accepts the position of protector, and thereby +secures a trusty helper, always with the thought of one stronger than +himself. The instinct of self-preservation is to be found everywhere, +and it is so, too, with their relations with man. The dog has learnt to +value man as his benefactor, from whom he receives everything necessary +for his support. Affection and devotion seem also to have their part in +these relations, but no doubt on a closer examination the instinct of +self-preservation is at the root of all. As a consequence of this, his +respect for his master is far greater than in our domestic dog, with +whom respect only exists as a consequence of the fear of a beating. I +could without hesitation take the food out of the mouth of any one +of my twelve dogs; not one of them would attempt to bite me. And +why? Because their respect, as a consequence of the fear of getting +nothing next time, was predominant. With my dogs at home I certainly +should not try the same thing. They would at once defend their food, +and, if necessary, they would not shrink from using their teeth; and +this in spite of the fact that these dogs have to all appearance the +same respect as the others. What, then, is the reason? It is that +this respect is not based on a serious foundation -- the instinct +of self-preservation -- but simply on the fear of a hiding. A case +like this proves that the foundation is too weak; the desire of food +overcomes the fear of the stick, and the result is a snap.</p> + +<p>A few days later the last member of the wintering party -- Adolf Henrik +Lindström -- joined us, and with his arrival our arrangements might be +regarded as complete. He had stayed on board hitherto, attending to +the cooking there, but now he was no longer necessary. His art would +be more appreciated among the "chatterers." The youngest member of +the expedition -- the cook Karinius Olsen -- took over from that day +the whole of the cooking on the Fram, and performed this work in an +extremely conscientious and capable way until the ship reached Hobart +in March, 1912, when he again had assistance. This was well done for +a lad of twenty. I wish we had many like him.</p> + +<p>With Lindström, then, the kitchen and the daily bread were in +order. The smoke rose gaily from the shining black chimney, and +proclaimed that now the Barrier was really inhabited. How cosy it was, +when we came sledging up after the day's work, to see that smoke rising +into the air. It is a little thing really, but nevertheless it means +so much. With Lindström came not only food, but light and air -- both +of them his specialities. The Lux lamp was the first thing he rigged +up, giving us a light that contributed much to the feeling of comfort +and well-being through the long winter. He also provided us with air, +but in this he had Stubberud as a partner. These two together managed +to give us the finest, purest Barrier air in our room during the whole +stay. It is true that this was not done without hard work, but they did +not mind that. The ventilation was capricious, and liable to fail now +and then. This usually happened when there was a dead calm. Many were +the ingenious devices employed by the firm to set the business going +again. Generally a Primus stove was used under the exhaust pipe, and +ice applied to the supply pipe. While one of them lay on his stomach +with the Primus under the exhaust, drawing the air up that way, +the other ran up to the roof and dropped big lumps of snow down the +supply to get the air in that way. In this fashion they could keep it +going by the hour together without giving up. It finally ended in the +ventilation becoming active again without visible cause. There is no +doubt that the system of ventilation in a winter-station like ours +is of great importance, both to health and comfort. I have read of +expeditions, the members of which were constantly suffering from cold +and damp and resulting sickness. This is nothing but a consequence +of bad ventilation. If the supply of fresh air is sufficient, the +fuel will be turned to better account, and the production of warmth +will, of course, be greater. If the supply of air is insufficient, +a great part of the fuel will be lost in an unconsumed state, and +cold and damp will be the result. There must, of course, be a means +of regulating the ventilation in accordance with requirements. We +used only the Lux lamp in our hut, besides the stove in the kitchen, +and with this we kept our room so warm that those of us in the upper +berths were constantly complaining of the warmth.</p> + +<p>Originally there were places for ten bunks in the room, but as +there were only nine of us, one of the bunks was removed and the +space used for our chronometer locker. This contained three ordinary +ship's chronometers. We had, in addition, six chronometer watches, +which we wore continually, and which were compared throughout the +whole winter. The meteorological instruments found a place in the +kitchen -- the only place we had for them. Lindström undertook the +position of sub-director of the Framheim meteorological station and +instrument-maker to the expedition. Under the roof were stowed all the +things that would not stand severe frost, such as medicines, syrup, +jam, cream, pickles, and sauces, besides all our sledge-boxes. A +place was also made for the library under the roof.</p> + +<p>The week beginning on Monday, January 30, was spent in bringing +up coal, wood, oil, and our whole supply of dried fish. The +temperature this summer varied between +5º and -13ºF. -- a grand +summer temperature. We also shot many seals daily, and we already +had a great pile of about a hundred of them lying just outside the +door of the hut. One evening as we were sitting at supper Lindström +came in to tell us that we need not go down any more to the sea-ice +to shoot them, as they were coming up to us. We went out and found +he was right. Not far away, and making straight for the hut, came +a crab-eater, shining like silver in the sun. He came right up, +was photographed, and -- shot.</p> + +<p>One day I had a rather curious experience. My best dog, Lassesen, had +his left hind-paw frozen quite white. It happened while we were all out +sledging. Lassesen was a lover of freedom, and had seen his chance of +getting loose when unobserved. He used his freedom, like most of these +dogs, for fighting. They love fighting, and cannot resist it. He had +picked a quarrel with Odin and Thor, and started a battle with them. In +the course of the fight the chains that fastened these two had got +wound round Lassesen's leg, and twisted so that the circulation was +stopped. How long he had been standing so I do not know. But when I +came, I saw at once that the dog was in the wrong place. On a closer +examination I discovered the frost-bite. I then spent half an hour in +restoring the circulation. I succeeded in doing this by holding the +paw continuously in my warm hand. At first, while there was no feeling +in the limb, it went well; but when the blood began to flow back, +of course it was painful, and Lassesen became impatient. He whined, +and motioned with his head towards the affected place, as though he +wanted to tell me that he found the operation unpleasant. He made no +attempt to snap. The paw swelled a good deal after this treatment, +but next day Lassesen was as well as ever, though a little lame in +that leg.</p> + +<p>The entries in my diary at this time are all in telegraphic style, +no doubt owing to the amount of work. Thus an entry in February ends +with the following words: "An Emperor penguin just come on a visit -- +soup-kettle." He did not get a very long epitaph.</p> + +<p>During this week we relieved the sea party of the last of the dogs +-- about twenty puppies. There was rejoicing on board when the last +of them left the deck, and, indeed, one could not be surprised. With +the thermometer about -5ºF., as it had been lately, it was impossible +to keep the deck clean, as everything froze at once. After they had +all been brought on to the ice, the crew went to work with salt and +water, and in a short time we recognized the Fram again. The puppies +were put into boxes and driven up. We had put up a sixteen-man tent +to receive them. From the very first moment they declined to stay in +it, and there was nothing to be done but to let them out. All these +puppies passed a great part of the winter in the open air. So long +as the seals' carcasses were lying on the slope, they stayed there; +afterwards they found another place. But the tent, despised by the +youngsters, came in useful after all. Any bitch that was going to +have a litter was put in there, and the tent went by the name of +"the maternity hospital." Then one tent after another was put up, and +Framheim looked quite an important place. Eight of the sixteen-man +tents were set up for our eight teams, two for dried fish, one for +fresh meat, one for cases of provisions, and one for coal and wood -- +fourteen altogether. They were arranged according to a plan drawn up +beforehand, and when they were all up they had quite the appearance +of a camp.</p> + +<p>At this time our dog-harness underwent important alterations, as one +of the members of the expedition had the happy idea of combining +the Alaska and the Greenland harness. The result satisfied all +requirements; in future we always used this construction, and we all +agreed that it was much superior to any other harness. The dogs also +seemed to be more comfortable in it. That they worked better and more +easily is certain, and raw places, so common with Greenland harness, +were absolutely unknown.</p> + +<p>February 4 was an eventful day. As usual, we all came down to the +Fram, driving our empty sledges, at half-past six in the morning. When +the first man got to the top of the ridge, he began to wave his arms +about and gesticulate like a madman. I understood, of course, that +he saw something, but what? The next man gesticulated even worse, +and tried to shout to me. But it was no use; I could not make anything +of it. Then it was my turn to go over the ridge, and, as was natural, +I began to feel rather curious. I had only a few yards more to go -- +and then it was explained. Along the edge of the ice, just to the +south of the Fram, a large barque lay moored. We had talked of the +possibility of meeting the Terra Nova -- Captain Scott's vessel -- +when she was on her way to King Edward VII. Land; but it was a great +surprise all the same. Now it was my turn to wave my arms, and I am +sure I did it no worse than the two first. And the same thing was +repeated with all of us, as soon as each one reached the top of the +ridge. What the last man did I have never been able to find out for +certain -- but no doubt he waved his arms too. If a stranger had stood +and watched us that morning on the ridge, he would surely have taken +us for a lot of incurable lunatics. The way seemed long that day, +but at last we got there and heard the full explanation. The Terra +Nova had come in at midnight. Our watchman had just gone below for +a cup of coffee -- there was no harm in that -- and when he came up +again, there was another ship lying off the foot of the Barrier. He +rubbed his eyes, pinched his leg, and tried other means of convincing +himself that he was asleep, but it was no good. The pinch especially, +he told us afterwards, was horribly painful, and all this led him to +the conclusion that there really was a second vessel there.</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Campbell, the leader of the eastern party, which was +to explore King Edward VII. Land, came on board first, and paid +Nilsen a visit. He brought the news that they had not been able to +reach land, and were now on their way back to McMurdo Sound. From +thence it was their intention to go to Cape North and explore the +land there. Immediately after my arrival Lieutenant Campbell came on +board again and gave me the news himself.</p> + +<p>We then loaded our sledges and drove home. At nine o'clock we had the +great pleasure of receiving Lieutenant Pennell, the commander of the +Terra Nova, Lieutenant Campbell, and the surgeon of the expedition, as +the first guests in our new home. We spent a couple of very agreeable +hours together. Later in the day three of us paid a visit to the Terra +Nova, and stayed on board to lunch. Our hosts were extremely kind, +and offered to take our mail to New Zealand. If I had had time, +I should have been glad to avail myself of this friendly offer, +but every hour was precious. It was no use to think of writing now.</p> + +<p>At two o'clock in the afternoon the Terra Nova cast off again, +and left the Bay of Whales. We made a strange discovery after this +visit. Nearly all of us had caught cold. It did not last long -- only +a few hours -- and then it was over. The form it took was sneezing +and cold in the head.</p> + +<p>The next day -- Sunday, February 5 -- the "sea rovers," as we +called the Fram party, were our guests. We had to have them in +two detachments, as they could not all leave the ship at the same +time. Four came to dinner and six to supper. We had not much to offer, +but we invited them, not so much for the sake of the entertainment +as to show them our new home and wish them a successful voyage.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER VI: <a name="vi"></a> +Depot Journeys</h2> + +<p>There was now too little work for eight of us in bringing up stores +from the Fram, and it became evident that some of us might be more +usefully employed elsewhere. It was therefore decided that four +men should bring ashore the little that remained, while the other +four went southward to lat. 80º S., partly to explore the immediate +neighbourhood, and partly to begin the transport of provisions to the +south. This arrangement gave us all enough to do. The four who were +to continue the work at the station -- Wisting, Hassel, Stubberud, +and Bjaaland -- now had as much as their sledges could carry. The +rest of us were busy getting ready. For that matter, everything was +prepared in advance, but as yet we had had no experience of a long +journey. That was what we were going to get now.</p> + +<p>Our departure was fixed for Friday, February 10. On the 9th I went on +board to say good-bye, as presumably the Fram would have sailed when +we came back. I had so much to thank all these plucky fellows for. I +knew it was hard for all of them -- almost without exception -- to +have to leave us now, at the most interesting time, and go out to sea +to battle for months with cold and darkness, ice and storms, and then +have the same voyage over again the next year when they came to fetch +us. It was certainly a hard task, but none of them complained. They +had all promised to do their best to promote our common object, +and therefore all went about their duty without grumbling. I left +written orders with the commander of the Fram, Captain Nilsen. The +substance of these orders may be given in a few words: Carry out +our plan in the way you may think best. I knew the man I was giving +orders to. A more capable and honourable second in command I could +never have had. I knew that the Fram was safe in his hands.</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Prestrud and I made a trip to the south to find a suitable +place for ascending the Barrier on the other side of the bay. The +sea-ice was fairly even for this distance; only a few cracks here +and there. Farther up the bay there were, curiously enough, long +rows of old hummocks. What could this mean? This part was really +quite protected from the sea, so that these formations could not +be attributed to its action. We hoped to have an opportunity of +investigating the conditions more closely later on; there was no time +for it now. The shortest and most direct way to the south was the one +we were on now. The bay was not wide here. The distance from Framheim +to this part of the Barrier was about three miles. The ascent of the +Barrier was not difficult; with the exception of a few fissures it +was quite easy. It did not take long to get up, except perhaps in +the steepest part. The height was 60 feet. It was quite exciting to +go up; what should we see at the top? We had never yet had a real +uninterrupted view over the Barrier to the south; this was the first +time. As it happened, we were not surprised at what we saw when we got +up -- an endless plain, that was lost in the horizon on the extreme +south. Our course, we could see, would take us just along the side of +the ridge before mentioned -- a capital mark for later journeys. The +going was excellent; a thin layer of conveniently loose snow was spread +over a hard under-surface, and made it very suitable for skiing. The +lie of the ground told us at once that we had the right pattern of ski +-- the kind for level ground, long and narrow. We had found what we +wanted -- an ascent for our southern journeys and an open road. This +spot was afterwards marked with a flag, and went by the name of "the +starting-place." On the way back, as on the way out, we passed large +herds of seals, lying asleep. They did not take the least notice +of us. If we went up and woke them, they just raised their heads a +little, looked at us for a moment, and then rolled over on the other +side and went to sleep again. It was very evident that these animals +here on the ice have no enemies. They would certainly have set a watch, +as their brothers in the North do, if they had had anything to fear.</p> + +<p>On this day we used skin clothing for the first time -- reindeer-skin +clothes of Eskimo cut -- but they proved to be too warm. We had the +same experience later. In low temperatures these reindeer clothes are +beyond comparison the best, but here in the South we did not as a rule +have low temperatures on our sledge journeys. On the few occasions +when we experienced any cold worth talking about, we were always +in skins. When we returned in the evening after our reconnoitring, +we had no need of a Turkish bath.</p> + +<p>On February 10, at 9.30 a.m., the first expedition left for the +South. We were four men, with three sledges and eighteen dogs, six +for each sledge. The load amounted to about 550 pounds of provisions +per sledge, besides the provisions and outfit for the journey. We +could not tell, even approximately, how long the journey would take, +as everything was unknown. The chief thing we took on our sledges +was dogs' pemmican for the depot, 350 pounds per sledge. We also +took a quantity of seal meat cut into steaks, blubber, dried fish, +chocolate, margarine, and biscuits. We had ten long bamboo poles, +with black flags, to mark the way. The rest of our outfit consisted +of two three-man tents, four one-man sleeping-bags, and the necessary +cooking utensils.</p> + +<p>The dogs were very willing, and we left Framheim at full gallop. Along +the Barrier we went well. Going down to the sea-ice we had to pass +through a number of big hummocks -- a fairly rough surface. Nor +was this without consequences; first one sledge, then another, swung +round. But no harm was done; we got our gear tested, and that is always +an advantage. We also had to pass rather near several large groups of +seals, and the temptation was too great. Away went the dogs to one side +in full gallop towards the seals. But this time the load was heavy, +and they were soon tired of the extra work. In the bay we were in sight +of the Fram. The ice had now given way entirely, so that she lay close +to the Barrier itself. Our four comrades, who were to stay at home, +accompanied us. In the first place, they wanted to see us on our way, +and in the second, they would be able to lend us a hand in getting +up the Barrier, for we were rather apprehensive that it would cost +us a wet shirt. Finally, they were to hunt seals. There was plenty +of opportunity here; where-ever one looked there were seals -- fat +heavy beasts.</p> + +<p>I had put the home party under Wisting's command, and given them +enough work to do. They were to bring up the remainder of the stores +from the ship, and to build a large, roomy pent-house against the +western wall of the hut, so that we should not have to go directly +on to the ice from the kitchen. We also intended to use this as a +carpenter's workshop. But they were not to forget the seal-hunting, +early and late. It was important to us to get seals enough to enable +us all, men and dogs, to live in plenty. And there were enough to +be had. If we ran short of fresh meat in the course of the winter, +it would be entirely our own fault.</p> + +<p>It was a good thing we had help for the climb. Short as it was, +it caused us a good deal of trouble; but we had dogs enough, and by +harnessing a sufficient number we got the sledges up. I should like +to know what they thought on board. They could see we were already +hard put to it to get up here. What would it be like when we had to +get on to the plateau? I do not know whether they thought of the old +saying: Practice makes perfect.</p> + +<p>We halted at the starting-place, where we were to separate from +our comrades. None of us was particularly sentimental. An honest +shake of the hand, and so "Good-bye." The order of our march was as +follows: Prestrud first on ski, to show the direction and encourage +the dogs. We always went better with someone going in front. Next +came Helmer Hanssen. He kept this place on all our journeys -- the +leading sledge. I knew him well from our previous work together, +and regarded him as the most efficient dog-driver I had met. He +carried the standard compass on his sledge and checked Prestrud's +direction. After him came Johansen, also with a compass. Lastly, +I came, with sledge-meter and compass. I preferred to take the last +sledge because it enabled me to see what was happening. However careful +one may be, it is impossible to avoid dropping things from sledges +in making a journey. If the last man keeps a lookout for such things, +great inconvenience may often be avoided. I could mention many rather +important things that were dropped in the course of our journeys and +picked up again by the last man. The hardest work, of course, falls on +the first man. He has to open up the road and drive his dogs forward, +while we others have only to follow. All honour, then, to the man who +performed this task from the first day to the last -- Helmer Hanssen.</p> + +<p>The position of the "forerunner" is not a very enviable one either. Of +course he escapes all bother with dogs, but it is confoundedly tedious +to walk there alone, staring at nothing. His only diversion is a +shout from the leading sledge: "A little to the right," "A little +to the left." It is not so much these simple words that divert him +as the tone in which they are called. Now and then the cry comes +in a way that makes him feel he is acquitting himself well. But +sometimes it sends a cold shiver down his back; the speaker might +just as well have added the word "Duffer!" -- there is no mistaking +his tone. It is no easy matter to go straight on a surface without +landmarks. Imagine an immense plain that you have to cross in thick +fog; it is dead calm, and the snow lies evenly, without drifts. What +would you do? An Eskimo can manage it, but none of us. We should turn +to the right or to the left, and give the leading dog-driver with the +standard compass endless trouble. It is strange how this affects the +mind. Although the man with the compass knows quite well that the man +in front cannot do any better, and although he knows that he could not +do better himself, he nevertheless gets irritated in time and works +himself into the belief that the unsuspecting, perfectly innocent +leader only takes these turns to annoy him; and so, as I have said, +the words "A little to the left" imply the unspoken addition -- +perfectly understood on both sides -- "Duffer!" I have personal +experience of both duties. With the dog-driver time passes far more +quickly. He has his dogs to look after, and has to see that all are +working and none shirking. Many other points about a team claim his +attention, and he must always keep an eye on the sledge itself. If +he does not do this, some slight unevenness may throw the runners in +the air before he knows where he is. And to right a capsized sledge, +weighing about eight hundredweight, is no fun. So, instead of running +this risk, he gives his whole attention to what is before him.</p> + +<p>From the starting-place the Barrier rises very slightly, until at a +cross-ridge it passes into the perfect level. Here on the ridge we +halt once more. Our comrades have disappeared and gone to their work, +but in the distance the Fram lies, framed in shining, blue-white +ice. We are but human; uncertainty always limits our prospect. Shall +we meet again? And if so, under what conditions? Much lay between +that moment and the next time we should see her. The mighty ocean +on one side, and the unknown region of ice on the other; so many +things might happen. Her flag floats out, waves us a last adieu, +and disappears. We are on our way to the South.</p> + +<p>This first inland trip on the Barrier was undeniably exciting. The +ground was absolutely unknown, and our outfit untried. What kind +of country should we have to deal with? Would it continue in this +boundless plain without hindrance of any kind? Or would Nature present +insurmountable difficulties? Were we right in supposing that dogs were +the best means of transport in these regions, or should we have done +better to take reindeer, ponies, motor-cars, aeroplanes, or anything +else? We went forward at a rattling pace; the going was perfect. The +dogs' feet trod on a thin layer of loose snow, just enough to give +them a secure hold.</p> + +<p>The weather conditions were not quite what we should have wished +in an unknown country. It is true that it was calm and mild, and +altogether pleasant for travelling, but the light was not good. A +grey haze, the most unpleasant kind of light after fog, lay upon the +landscape, making the Barrier and the sky merge into one. There was +no horizon to be seen. This grey haze, presumably a younger sister +of fog, is extremely disagreeable. One can never be certain of one's +surroundings. There are no shadows; everything looks the same. In a +light like this it is a bad thing to be the forerunner; he does not +see the inequalities of the ground until too late -- until he is right +on them. This often ends in a fall, or in desperate efforts to keep +on his feet. It is better for the drivers, they can steady themselves +with a hand on the sledge. But they also have to be on the lookout for +inequalities, and see that the sledges do not capsize. This light is +also very trying to the eyes, and one often hears of snow-blindness +after such a day. The cause of this is not only that one strains one's +eyes continually; it is also brought about by carelessness. One is +very apt to push one's snow-goggles up on to one's forehead, especially +if they are fitted with dark glasses. However, we always came through +it very well; only a few of us had a little touch of this unpleasant +complaint. Curiously enough, snow-blindness has something in common +with seasickness. If you ask a man whether he is seasick, in nine +cases out of ten he will answer: "No, not at all -- only a little +queer in the stomach." It is the same, in a slightly different way, +with snow-blindness. If a man comes into the tent in the evening with +an inflamed eye and you ask him whether he is snow-blind, you may +be sure he will be almost offended. "Snow-blind? Is it likely? No, +not at all, only a little queer about the eye."</p> + +<p>We did seventeen miles[5] that day without exertion. We had two tents, +and slept two in a tent. These tents were made for three men, but were +too small for four. Cooking was only done in one, both for the sake +of economy, so that we might leave more at the depot, and because it +was unnecessary, as the weather was still quite mild.</p> + +<p>On this first trip, as on all the depot journeys, our morning +arrangements took far too long. We began to get ready at four, but +were not on the road till nearly eight. I was always trying some means +of remedying this, but without success. It will naturally be asked, +What could be the cause of this? and I will answer candidly -- it was +dawdling and nothing else. On these depot journeys it did not matter so +much, but on the main journey we had to banish dawdling relentlessly.</p> + +<p>Next day we did the allotted seventeen miles in six hours, and pitched +our camp early in the afternoon. The dogs were rather tired, as it +had been uphill work all day. To-day, from a distance of twenty-eight +miles, we could look down into the Bay of Whales; this shows that we +had ascended considerably. We estimated our camp that evening to be 500 +feet above the sea. We were astonished at this rise, but ought not to +have been so really, since we had already estimated this ridge at 500 +feet when we first saw it from the end of the bay. But however it may +be, most of us have a strong propensity for setting up theories and +inventing something new. What others have seen does not interest us, +and on this occasion we took the opportunity -- I say we, because I +was one of them -- of propounding a new theory -- that of an evenly +advancing ice-slope from the Antarctic plateau. We saw ourselves in +our mind's eye ascending gradually to the top, and thus avoiding a +steep and laborious climb among the mountains.</p> + +<p>The day had been very warm, +12.2º F., and I had been obliged to +throw off everything except the most necessary underclothes. My +costume may be guessed from the name I gave to the ascent -- +Singlet Hill. There was a thick fog when we turned out next morning, +exceedingly unpleasant. Here every inch was over virgin ground, and we +had to do it blindly. That day we had a feeling of going downhill. At +one o'clock land was reported right ahead. From the gesticulations +of those in front I made out that it must be uncommonly big. I saw +absolutely nothing, but that was not very surprising. My sight is +not specially good, and the land did not exist.</p> + +<p>The fog lifted, and the surface looked a little broken. The +imaginary land lasted till the next day, when we found out that it +had only been a descending bank of fog. That day we put on the pace, +and did twenty-five miles instead of our usual seventeen. We were +very lightly clad. There could be no question of skins; they were +laid aside at once. Very light wind-clothing was all we wore over +our underclothes. On this journey most of us slept barelegged in +the sleeping-bags. Next day we were surprised by brilliantly clear +weather and a dead calm. For the first time we had a good view. Towards +the south the Barrier seemed to continue, smooth and even, without +ascending. Towards the east, on the other hand, there was a marked +rise -- presumably towards King Edward VII. Land, we thought then. In +the course of the afternoon we passed the first fissure we had met +with. It had apparently been filled up long ago. Our distance that +day was twenty-three miles.</p> + +<p>On these depot journeys we were always very glad of our Thermos +flasks. In the middle of the day we made a halt, and took a cup of +scalding hot chocolate, and it was very pleasant to be able to get one +without any trouble in the middle of the snow plateau. On the final +southern journey we did not take Thermos flasks. We had no lunch then.</p> + +<p>On February 14, after a march of eleven and a half miles, we reached +80º S. Unfortunately we did not succeed in getting any astronomical +observation on this trip, as the theodolite we had brought with us +went wrong, but later observations on several occasions gave 79º +59' S. Not so bad in fog. We had marked out the route up to this +point with bamboo poles and flags at every 15 kilometres. Now, as +we had not fixed the position by astronomical observation, we found +that the flags would not be sufficient, and we had to look for some +other means of marking the spot. A few empty cases were broken up and +gave a certain number of marks, but not nearly enough. Then our eyes +fell upon a bundle of dried fish lying on one of the sledges, and our +marking pegs were found. I should like to know whether any road has +been marked out with dried fish before; I doubt it. Immediately on +our arrival in lat. 80º -- at eleven in the morning -- we began to +erect the depot. It was made quite solid, and was 12 feet high. The +going here in 80º was quite different from what we had had all the +rest of the way. Deep, loose snow every-where gave us the impression +that it must have fallen in perfectly still weather. Generally when +we passed by here -- but not always -- we found this loose snow.</p> + +<p>When the depot was finished and had been photographed, we threw +ourselves on the sledges and began the homeward journey. It was +quite a treat to sit and be drawn along, a thing that otherwise +never happened. Prestrud sat with me. Hanssen drove first, but as +he now had the old track to follow, he wanted no one in front. On +the last sledge we had the marking pegs. Prestrud kept an eye on the +sledge-meter, and sang out at every half-kilometre, while at the same +time I stuck a dried fish into the snow. This method of marking the +route proved a brilliant one. Not only did the dried fish show us the +right way on several occasions, but they also came in very useful on +the next journey, when we returned with starving dogs. That day we +covered forty-three miles. We did not get to bed till one o'clock at +night, but this did not prevent our being up again at four and off +at half-past seven. At half-past nine in the evening we drove into +Framheim, after covering sixty-two miles that day. Our reason for +driving that distance was not to set up any record for the Barrier, +but to get home, if possible, before the Fram sailed, and thus have an +opportunity of once more shaking hands with our comrades and wishing +them a good voyage. But as we came over the edge of the Barrier we +saw that, in spite of all our pains, we had come too late. The Fram +was not there. It gave us a strange and melancholy feeling, not easy +to understand. But the next moment common sense returned, and our +joy at her having got away from the Barrier undamaged after the long +stay was soon uppermost. We heard that she had left the bay at noon +the same day -- just as we were spurting our hardest to reach her.</p> + +<p>This depot journey was quite sufficient to tell us what the future +had in store. After this we were justified in seeing it in a rosy +light. We now had experience of the three important factors -- +the lie of the ground, the going, and the means of traction -- +and the result was that nothing could be better. Everything was in +the most perfect order. I had always had a high opinion of the dog +as a draught animal, but after this last performance my admiration +for these splendid animals rose to the pitch of enthusiasm. Let us +look at what my dogs accomplished on this occasion: On February 14 +they went eleven miles southward with a load of 770 pounds, and on +the same day thirty-two miles northward -- only four of them, the +"Three Musketeers" and Lassesen, as Fix and Snuppesen refused to do any +work. The weight they started with from 80ºS. was that of the sledge, +165 pounds; Prestrud, 176 pounds; and myself, 182 pounds. Add to this +154 pounds for sleeping-bags, ski, and dried fish, and we have a total +weight of 677 pounds, or about 170 pounds per dog. The last day they +did sixty-two miles. I think the dogs showed on this occasion that +they were well suited for sledging on the Barrier.</p> + +<p>In addition to this brilliant result, we arrived at several other +conclusions. In the first place, the question of the long time spent in +our morning preparations thrust itself on our notice: this could not +be allowed to occur on the main journey. At least two hours might be +saved, I had no doubt of that -- but how? I should have to take time to +think it over. What required most alteration was our heavy outfit. The +sledges were constructed with a view to the most difficult conditions +of ground. The surface here was of the easiest kind, and consequently +permitted the use of the lightest outfit. We ought to be able to reduce +the weight of the sledges by at least half -- possibly more. Our big +canvas ski-boots were found to need thorough alteration. They were too +small and too stiff, and had to be made larger and softer. Foot-gear +had such an important bearing on the success of the whole expedition +that we had to do all that could be done to get it right.</p> + +<p>The four who had stayed at home had accomplished a fine piece of +work. Framheim was hardly recognizable with the big new addition on +its western wall. This pent-house was of the same width as the hut -- +13 feet -- and measured about 10 feet the other way. Windows had been +put in -- two of them -- and it looked quite bright and pleasant when +one came in; but this was not to last for long. Our architects had +also dug a passage, 5 feet wide, round the whole hut, and this was now +covered over, simply by prolonging the sloping roof down to the snow +to form a roof over this passage. On the side facing east a plank was +fixed across the gable at the required height, and from this boards +were brought down to the snow. The lower part of this new extension +of the roof was well strengthened, as the weight of snow that would +probably accumulate upon it in the course of the winter would be very +great. This passage was connected with the pent-house by a side-door +in the northern wall. The passage was constructed to serve as a place +for storing tinned foods and fresh meat, besides which its eastern end +afforded an excellent place to get snow for melting. Here Lindström +could be sure of getting as much clean snow as he wanted, which was +an impossibility outside the house. We had 120 dogs running about, +and they were not particular as to the purpose for which we might want +the snow. But here in this snow wall Lindström had no need to fear the +dogs. Another great advantage was that he would not have to go out in +bad weather, darkness, and cold, every time he wanted a piece of ice.</p> + +<p>We now had to turn our attention in the first place, before the cold +weather set in, to the arrangement of our dog tents. We could not leave +them standing as they were on the snow; if we did so, we should soon +find that dogs' teeth are just as sharp as knives; besides which, they +would be draughty and cold for the animals. To counteract this, the +floor of each tent was sunk 6 feet below the surface of the Barrier. A +great part of this excavation had to be done with axes, as we soon came +to the bare ice. One of these dog tents, when finished, had quite an +important appearance, when one stood at the bottom and looked up. It +measured 18 feet from the floor to the peak of the tent, and the +diameter of the floor was 15 feet. Then twelve posts were driven into +the ice of the floor at equal intervals round the wall of the tent, +and the dogs were tethered to them. From the very first day the dogs +took a liking to their quarters, and they were right, as they were well +off there. I do not remember once seeing frost-rime on the coats of +my dogs down in the tent. They enjoyed every advantage there -- air, +without draughts, light, and sufficient room. Round the tent-pole we +left a pillar of snow standing in the middle of the tent to the height +of a man. It took us two days to put our eight dog tents in order.</p> + +<p>Before the Fram sailed one of the whale-boats had been put ashore on +the Barrier. One never knew; if we found ourselves in want of a boat, +it would be bad to have none, and if we did not have to use it, there +was no great harm done. It was brought up on two sledges drawn by +twelve dogs, and was taken some distance into the Barrier. The mast +stood high in the air, and showed us its position clearly.</p> + +<p>Besides all their other work, the four men had found time for shooting +seals while we were away, and large quantities of meat were now +stowed everywhere. We had to lose no time in getting ready the tent +in which we stored our chief supply of seal meat. It would not have +lasted long if we had left it unprotected on the ground. To keep off +the dogs, we built a wall 7 feet high of large blocks of snow. The +dogs themselves saw to its covering with ice, and for the time being +all possibility of their reaching the meat was removed.</p> + +<p>We did not let the floor grow old under our feet; it was time to be +off again to the south with more food. Our departure was fixed for +February 22, and before that time we had a great deal to do. All the +provisions had first to be brought from the main depot and prepared +for the journey. Then we had to open the cases of pemmican, take +out the boxes in which it was soldered, four rations in each, cut +these open, and put the four rations back in the case without the +tin lining. By doing this we saved so much weight, and at the same +time avoided the trouble of having this work to do later on in the +cold. The tin packing was used for the passage through the tropics, +where I was afraid the pemmican might possibly melt and run into +the hold of the ship. This opening and repacking took a long time, +but we got through it. We used the pent-house as a packing-shed.</p> + +<p>Another thing that took up a good deal of our time was our personal +outfit. The question of boots was gone into thoroughly. Most of us were +in favour of the big outer boots, but in a revised edition. There +were a few -- but extremely few -- who declared for nothing but +soft foot-gear. In this case it did not make so much difference, +since they all knew that the big boots would have to be brought on +the final journey on account of possible work on glaciers. Those, +therefore, who wanted to wear soft foot-gear, and hang their boots +on the sledge, might do so if they liked. I did not want to force +anyone to wear boots he did not care for; it might lead to too much +unpleasantness and responsibility. Everyone, therefore, might do as he +pleased. Personally I was in favour of boots with stiff soles, so long +as the uppers could be made soft and sufficiently large to give room +for as many stockings as one wished to wear. It was a good thing the +boot-maker could not look in upon us at Framheim just then -- and many +times afterwards, for that matter. The knife was mercilessly applied +to all his beautiful work, and all the canvas, plus a quantity of the +superfluous leather, was cut away. As I had no great knowledge of the +shoemaker's craft, I gladly accepted Wisting's offer to operate on +mine. The boots were unrecognizable when I got them back from him. As +regards shape, they were perhaps just as smart before the alteration, +but as that is a very unimportant matter in comparison with ease +and comfort, I considered them improved by many degrees. The thick +canvas was torn off and replaced by thin weather-proof fabric. Big +wedges were inserted in the toes, and allowed room for several more +pairs of stockings. Besides this, one of the many soles was removed, +thus increasing the available space. It appeared to me that now I had +foot-gear that combined all the qualities I demanded -- stiff soles, +on which Huitfeldt-Höyer Ellefsen ski-bindings could be used, and +otherwise soft, so that the foot was not pinched anywhere. In spite +of all these alterations, my boots were once more in the hands of the +operator before the main journey, but then they were made perfect. The +boots of all the others underwent the same transformation, and every +day our outfit became more complete. A number of minor alterations +in our wardrobe were also carried out. One man was an enthusiast +for blinkers on his cap; another did not care for them. One put on +a nose-protector; another took his off; and if there was a question +of which was right, each was prepared to defend his idea to the +last. These were all alterations of minor importance, but being due to +individual judgment, they helped to raise the spirits and increase +self-confidence. Patents for braces also became the fashion. I +invented one myself, and was very proud of it for a time -- indeed, +I had the satisfaction of seeing it adopted by one of my rivals. But +that rarely happened; each of us wanted to make his own inventions, +and to be as original as possible. Any contrivance that resembled +something already in use was no good. But we found, like the farmer, +that the old way often turned out to be the best.</p> + +<p>By the evening of February 21 we were again ready to start. The sledges +-- seven in number -- stood ready packed, and were quite imposing +in appearance. Tempted by the favourable outcome of our former trip, +we put too much on our sledges this time -- on some of them, in any +case. Mine was overloaded. I had to suffer for it afterwards -- or, +rather, my noble animals did.</p> + +<p>On February 22, at 8.30 a.m., the caravan moved off -- eight men, seven +sledges, and forty-two dogs -- and the most toilsome part of our whole +expedition began. As usual, we began well from Framheim. Lindström, +who was to stay at home alone and look after things, did not stand +and wave farewells to us. Beaming with joy, he made for the hut as +soon as the last sledge was in motion. He was visibly relieved. But +I knew very well that before long he would begin to take little turns +outside to watch the ridge. Would they soon be coming?</p> + +<p>There was a light breeze from the south, dead against us, and the sky +was overcast. Newly fallen snow made the going heavy, and the dogs had +hard work with their loads. Our former tracks were no longer visible, +but we were lucky enough to find the first flag, which stood eleven +miles inland. From there we followed the dried fish, which stood out +sharply against the white snow and were very easy to see. We pitched +our camp at six o'clock in the evening, having come a distance +of seventeen miles. Our camp was quite imposing -- four tents for +three men apiece, with two in each. In two of them the housekeeping +arrangements were carried on. The weather had improved during the +afternoon, and by evening we had the most brilliantly clear sky.</p> + +<p>Next day the going was even heavier, and the dogs were severely +tried. W e did no more than twelve and a half miles after eight hours' +march. The temperature remained reasonable, +5º F. We had lost our +dried fish, and for the last few hours were going only by compass.</p> + +<p>February 24 began badly -- a strong wind from the south-east, with +thick driving snow. We could see nothing, and had to steer our +course by compass. It was bitter going against the wind, although +the temperature was no worse than -0.4º F. We went all day without +seeing any mark. The snow stopped falling about noon, and at three +o'clock it cleared. As we were looking about for a place to pitch +the tents, we caught sight of one of our flags. When we reached it, +we found it was flag No. 5 -- all our bamboos were numbered, so we +knew the exact position of the flag. No. 5 was forty-four and a half +miles from Framheim. This agreed well with the distance recorded -- +forty-four miles.</p> + +<p>The next day was calm and clear, and the temperature began to +descend, -13º F. But in spite of this lower temperature the air +felt considerably milder, as it was quite still. We followed marks +and fish the whole way, and at the end of our day's journey we had +covered eighteen miles -- a good distance for heavy going.</p> + +<p>We then had a couple of days of bitter cold with fog, so that we did +not see much of our surroundings. We followed the fish and the marks +most of the way. We had already begun to find the fish useful as +extra food; the dogs took it greedily. The forerunner had to take up +each fish and throw it on one side; then one of the drivers went out, +took it up, and put it on his sledge. If the dogs had come upon the +fish standing in the snow we should soon have had fierce fights. Even +now, before we reached the depot in 80º S., the dogs began to show +signs of exhaustion, probably as a result of the cold weather (-16.6º +F.) and the hard work. They were stiff in the legs in the morning +and difficult to set going.</p> + +<p>On February 27, at 10.30 a.m., we reached the depot in 80º S. The +depot was standing as we had left it, and no snow-drifts had formed +about it, from which we concluded that the weather conditions had been +quiet. The snow, which we had found very loose when we were there +before, was now hardened by the cold. We were lucky with the sun, +and got the position of the depot accurately determined.</p> + +<p>On our way across these endless plains, where no landmarks of +any kind are to be found, we had repeatedly thought of a means of +marking our depots so that we might be perfectly sure of finding +them again. Our fight for the Pole was entirely dependent on this +autumn work, in laying down large supplies of provisions as far to +the south as possible in such a way that we could be certain of +finding them again. If we missed them, the battle would probably +be lost. As I have said, we had discussed the question thoroughly, +and come to the conclusion that we should have to try to mark our +depots at right angles to the route, in an east and west direction, +instead of in a line with the route, north and south. These marks +along the line of the route may easily be missed in fog, if they +are not close enough together; and if one thus gets out of the line, +there is a danger of not picking it up again. According to this new +arrangement we therefore marked this depot in 80º S. with high bamboo +poles carrying black flags. We used twenty of these -- ten on each side +of the depot. Between each two flags there was a distance of 984 yards +(900 metres), so that the distance marked on each side of the depot +was five and a half miles (nine kilometres). Each bamboo was marked +with a number, so that we should always be able to tell from this +number on which side the depot lay, and how far off. This method +was entirely new and untried, but proved afterwards to work with +absolute certainty. Our compasses and sledge-meters had, of course, +been carefully adjusted at the station, and we knew that we could +rely on them.</p> + +<p>Having put this in order, we continued our journey on the following +day. The temperature fell steadily as we went inland; if it continued +in this way it would be cold before one got to the Pole. The surface +remained as before -- flat and even. We ourselves had a feeling +that we were ascending, but, as the future will show, this was only +imagination. We had had no trouble with fissures, and it almost looked +as if we should avoid them altogether, since, of course, it might +be supposed that the part of the Barrier nearest the edge would be +the most fissured, and we had already left that behind us. South of +80º we found the going easier, but the dogs were now beginning to +be stiff and sore-footed, and it was hard work to get them started +in the morning. The sore feet I am speaking of here are not nearly +so bad as those the dogs are liable to on the sea-ice of the Arctic +regions. What caused sore feet on this journey was the stretches of +snow-crust we had to cross; it was not strong enough to bear the dogs, +and they broke through and cut their paws. Sore feet were also caused +by the snow caking and sticking between the toes. But the dog that has +to travel on sea-ice in spring and summer is exposed to worse things -- +the sharp ice cuts the paws and the salt gets in. To prevent this kind +of sore feet one is almost obliged to put socks on the dogs. With the +kind of foot-trouble our dogs experienced it is not necessary to take +any such precautions. As a result of the long sea voyage their feet +had become unusually tender and could not stand much. On our spring +journey we noticed no sore-footedness, in spite of the conditions +being worse rather than better; probably their feet had got into +condition in the course of the winter.</p> + +<p>On March 3 we reached 81º S. The temperature was then -45.4º F., +and it did not feel pleasant. The change had come too rapidly; this +could be seen both in men and in dogs. We pitched our camp at three +in the afternoon, and went straight into the tents. The following +day was employed in building and marking the depot. That night was +the coldest we observed on the trip, as the temperature was -49º +F. when we turned out in the morning. If one compares the conditions +of temperature in the Arctic and Antarctic regions, it will be seen +that this temperature is an exceptionally low one. The beginning of +March corresponds, of course, to the beginning of September in the +northern hemisphere -- a time of year when summer still prevails. We +were astonished to find this low temperature while summer ought still +to have lasted, especially when I remembered the moderate temperatures +Shackleton had observed on his southern sledge journey. The idea at +once occurred to me of the existence of a local pole of maximum cold +extending over the central portion of the Ross Barrier. A comparison +with the observations recorded at Captain Scott's station in McMurdo +Sound might to some extent explain this. In order to establish it +completely one would require to have information about the conditions +in King Edward Land as well. The observations Dr. Mawson is now engaged +upon in Adélie Land and on the Barrier farther west will contribute +much to the elucidation of this question.</p> + +<p>In 81º S. we laid down a depot consisting of fourteen cases of dogs' +pemmican -- 1,234 pounds. For marking this depot we had no bamboo +poles, so there was nothing to be done but to break up some cases +and use the pieces as marks; this was, at any rate, better than +nothing. Personally, I considered these pieces of wood, 2 feet high, +good enough, considering the amount of precipitation I had remarked +since our arrival in these regions. The precipitation we had observed +was very slight, considering the time of year -- spring and summer. If, +then, the snowfall was so inconsiderable at this time of the year +and along the edge of the Barrier, what might it not be in autumn +and winter in the interior? As I have said, something was better than +nothing, and Bjaaland, Hassel, and Stubberud, who were to return to +Lindström's flesh-pots on the following day, were given the task of +setting up these marks. As with the former depot, this one was marked +for nine kilometres on each side from east to west. So that we might +know where the depot was, in case we should come upon one of these +marks in a fog, all those on the east were marked with a little cut +of an axe. I must confess they looked insignificant, these little +bits of wood that were soon lost to sight on the boundless plain, +and the idea that they held the key of the castle where the fair one +slept made me smile. They looked altogether too inconsiderable for +such an honour. Meanwhile, we others, who were to go on to the south, +took it easy. The rest was good for the dogs especially, though the +cold prevented their enjoying it as they should have done.</p> + +<p>At eight o'clock next morning we parted company with the three who +went north. I had to send home one of my dogs, Odin, who had got an +ugly raw place -- I was using Greenland harness on him -- and I went +on with five dogs. These were very thin, and apparently worn out; +but in any case we had to reach 82º S. before we gave up. I had had +some hope that we might have got to 83º, but it began to look as if +we had a poor chance of that. After 81º S. the Barrier began to take +on a slightly different appearance instead of the absolutely flat +surface, we saw on the first day a good many small formations of +the shape of haycocks. At that time we did not pay much attention +to these apparently insignificant irregularities, but later on we +learned to keep our eyes open and our feet active when passing in +their vicinity. On this first day southward from 81º S. we noticed +nothing; the going was excellent, the temperature not so bad as it +had been, -27.4º F., and the distance covered very creditable. The +next day we got our first idea of the meaning of these little mounds, +as the surface was cut up by crevasse after crevasse. These fissures +were not particularly wide, but were bottomless, as far as we could +see. About noon Hanssen's three leading dogs, Helge, Mylius, and Ring, +fell into one of them, and remained hanging by their harness; and it +was lucky the traces held, as the loss of these three would have been +severely felt. When the rest of the team saw these three disappear, +they stopped short. Fortunately, they had a pronounced fear of these +fissures, and always stopped when anything happened. We understood +now that the haycock formations were the result of pressure, and that +crevasses were always found in their neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>That day was for the most part thick and hazy, with a northerly wind, +and snow-showers from time to time. Between the showers we caught +sight of lofty -- very lofty -- pressure ridges, three or four of them, +to the eastward. We estimated their distance at about six miles. Next +day, March 7, we had the same experience that Shackleton mentions on +several occasions. The morning began clear and fine, with a temperature +of -40º F. In the course of the forenoon a breeze sprang up from +the south-east, and increased to a gale during the afternoon. The +temperature rose rapidly, and when we pitched our camp at three in +the afternoon it was only -0.4º F. At our camping-place that morning +we left a case of dogs' pemmican, for use on the homeward journey, +and marked the way to the south with splinters of board at every +kilometre. Our distance that day was only twelve and a half miles. Our +dogs, especially mine, looked miserable -- terribly emaciated. It +was clear that they could only reach 82º S. at the farthest. Even +then the homeward journey would be a near thing.</p> + +<p>We decided that evening to be satisfied with reaching 82º, and then +return. During this latter part of the trip we put up our two tents +front to front, so that the openings joined; in this way we were able +to send the food direct from one tent to the other without going +outside, and that was a great advantage. This circumstance led to +a radical alteration in our camping system, and gave us the idea +of the best five-man tent that has probably yet been seen in the +Polar regions. As we lay dozing that evening in our sleeping-bags, +thinking of everything and nothing, the idea suddenly occurred to +us that if the tents were sewed together as they now stood -- after +the fronts had been cut away -- we should get one tent that would +give us far more room for five than the two separate tents as they +were. The idea was followed up, and the fruit of it was the tent we +used on the journey to the Pole -- an ideal tent in every way. Yes, +circumstances work wonders; for I suppose one need not make Providence +responsible for these trifles?</p> + +<p>On March 8 we reached 82º S., and it was the utmost my five dogs could +manage. Indeed, as will shortly be seen, it was already too much. They +were completely worn out, poor beasts. This is the only dark memory of +my stay in the South -- the over-taxing of these fine animals -- I had +asked more of them than they were capable of doing. My consolation is +that I did not spare myself either. To set this sledge, weighing nearly +half a ton, in motion with tired-out dogs was no child's play. And +setting it in motion was not always the whole of it: sometimes one +had to push it forward until one forced the dogs to move. The whip had +long ago lost its terrors. When I tried to use it, they only crowded +together, and got their heads as much out of the way as they could; +the body did not matter so much. Many a time, too, I failed altogether +to get them to go, and had to have help. Then two of us shoved the +sledge forward, while the third used the whip, shouting at the same +time for all he was worth. How hard and unfeeling one gets under such +conditions; how one's whole nature may be changed! I am naturally fond +of all animals, and try to avoid hurting them. There is none of the +"sportsman's" instinct in me; it would never occur to me to kill an +animal -- rats and flies excepted -- unless it was to support life. I +think I can say that in normal circumstances I loved my dogs, and the +feeling was undoubtedly mutual. But the circumstances we were now in +were not normal -- or was it, perhaps, myself who was not normal? I +have often thought since that such was really the case. The daily hard +work and the object I would not give up had made me brutal, for brutal +I was when I forced those five skeletons to haul that excessive load. I +feel it yet when I think of Thor -- a big, fine, smooth-haired dog -- +uttering his plaintive howls on the march, a thing one never hears +a dog do while working. I did not understand what it meant -- would +not understand, perhaps. On he had to go -- on till he dropped. When +we cut him open we found that his whole chest was one large abscess.</p> + +<p>The altitude at noon gave us 81º 54' 30'', +and we therefore went the other six miles to the south, and pitched +our camp at 3.30 p.m. in 82º S. We had latterly had a constant +impression that the Barrier was rising, and in the opinion of all +of us we ought now to have been at a height of about 1,500 feet and +a good way up the slope leading to the Pole. Personally I thought +the ground continued to rise to the south. It was all imagination, +as our later measurements showed.</p> + +<p>We had now reached our highest latitude that autumn, and had reason +to be well satisfied. We laid down 1,370 pounds here, chiefly dogs' +pemmican. We did nothing that afternoon, only rested a little. The +weather was brisk, clear and calm, -13º F. The distance this last +day was thirteen and a half miles.</p> + +<p>Next day we stayed where we were, built our depot, and marked it. The +marking was done in the same way as in 81º S., with this difference, +that here the pieces of packing-case had small, dark blue strips +of cloth fastened to the top, which made them easier to see. We +made this depot very secure, so that we could be certain it would +stand bad weather in the course of the winter. I also left my sledge +behind, as I saw the impossibility of getting it home with my team; +besides which, an extra sledge at this point might possibly be useful +later. This depot -- 12 feet high -- was marked with a bamboo and a +flag on the top, so that it could be seen a great way off.</p> + +<p>On March 10 we took the road for home. I had divided my dogs between +Wisting and Hanssen, but they got no assistance from these bags of +bones, only trouble. The other three teams had held out well. There +was hardly anything wrong to be seen with Hanssen's. Wisting's team +was looked upon as the strongest, but his dogs had got very thin; +however, they did their work well. Wisting's sledge had also been +overloaded; it was even heavier than mine. Johansen's animals had +originally been regarded as the weakest, but they proved themselves +very tough in the long-run. They were no racers, but always managed +to scramble along somehow. Their motto was: "If we don't get there +to-day, we'll get there to-morrow." They all came home.</p> + +<p>Our original idea was that the homeward journey should be a sort of +pleasure trip, that we should sit on the sledges and take it easy; +but in the circumstances this was not to be thought of. The dogs had +quite enough to do with the empty sledges. The same day we reached the +place where we had left a case of dogs' pemmican, and camped there, +having done twenty-nine and three-quarter miles. The weather was cold +and raw; temperature, -25.6º F. This weather took the last remnant of +strength out of my dogs; instead of resting at night, they lay huddled +together and freezing. It was pitiful to see them. In the morning they +had to be lifted up and put on their feet; they had not strength enough +to raise themselves. When they had staggered on a little way and got +some warmth into their bodies, they seemed to be rather better -- +at any rate, they could keep up with us. The following day we did +twenty-four and three-quarter miles; temperature, -32.8º F.</p> + +<p>On the 12th we passed the depot in 81º S. The big pressure ridges +to the east were easily visible, and we got a good bearing, which +would possibly come in useful later for fixing the position of +the depot. That day we did twenty-four and three-quarter miles; +temperature, -39º F. March 13 began calm and fine, but by half-past +ten in the morning a strong wind had sprung up from the east-south-east +with thick driving snow. So as not to lose the tracks we had followed +so far, we pitched our camp, to wait till the storm was over. The wind +howled and took hold of the tents, but could not move them. The next +day it blew just as hard from the same quarter, and we decided to +wait. The temperature was as usual, with the wind in this quarter; +-11.2º F. The wind did not moderate till 10.30 a.m. on the 15th, +when we were able to make a start.</p> + +<p>What a sight there was outside! How were we going to begin to bring +order out of this chaos? The sledges were completely snowed up; +whips, ski-bindings, and harness largely eaten up. It was a nice +predicament. Fortunately we were well supplied with Alpine rope, +and that did for the harness; spare straps came in for ski-bindings, +but the whips were not so easy to make good. Hanssen, who drove first, +was bound to have a fairly serviceable whip; the others did not matter +so much, though it was rather awkward for them. In some way or other +he provided himself with a whip that answered his purpose. I saw one +of the others armed with a tent-pole, and he used it till we reached +Framheim. At first the dogs were much afraid of this monster of a whip, +but they soon found out that it was no easy matter to reach them with +the pole, and then they did not care a scrap for it.</p> + +<p>At last everything seemed to be in order, and then we only had to get +the dogs up and in their places. Several of them were so indifferent +that they had allowed themselves to be completely snowed under, +but one by one we got them out and put them on their feet. Thor, +however, refused absolutely. It was impossible to get him to stand +up; he simply lay and whined. There was nothing to be done but to put +an end to him, and as we had no firearms, it had to be done with an +axe. It was quite successful; less would have killed him. Wisting took +the carcass on his sledge to take it to the next camp, and there cut it +up. The day was bitterly cold -- fog and snow with a southerly breeze; +temperature, -14.8º F. We were lucky enough to pick up our old tracks +of the southern journey, and could follow them. Lurven, Wisting's +best dog, fell down on the march, and died on the spot. He was one +of those dogs who had to work their hardest the whole time; he never +thought of shirking for a moment; he pulled and pulled until he died.</p> + +<p>All sentimental feeling had vanished long ago; nobody thought of giving +Lurven the burial he deserved. What was left of him, skin and bones, +was cut up and divided among his companions.</p> + +<p>On March 16 we advanced seventeen miles; temperature, -29.2º F. Jens, +one of my gallant "Three Musketeers," had been given a ride all day +on Wisting's sledge; he was too weak to walk any longer. Thor was to +have been divided among his companions that evening, but, on account +of the abscess in his chest, we changed our minds. He was put into an +empty case and buried. During the night we were wakened by a fearful +noise. The dogs were engaged in a fierce fight, and it was easy to +guess from their howls that it was all about food. Wisting, who always +showed himself quickest in getting out of the bag, was instantly on +the spot, and then it was seen that they had dug up Thor, and were +now feasting on him. It could not be said that they were hard to +please in the way of food. Associations of ideas are curious things; +"sauce hollandaise" suddenly occurred to my mind. Wisting buried the +carcass again, and we had peace for the rest of the night.</p> + +<p>On the 17th it felt bitterly cold, with -41.8º F., and a sharp +snowstorm from the south-east. Lassesen, one of my dogs, who had +been following the sledges loose, was left behind this morning at +the camping-place; we did not miss him till late in the day. Rasmus, +one of the "Three Musketeers," fell to-day. Like Lurven, he pulled +till he died. Jens was very ill, could not touch food, and was taken +on Wisting's sledge. We reached our depot in 80º S. that evening, +and were able to give the dogs a double ration. The distance covered +was twenty-one and three-quarter miles. The surface about here had +changed in our absence; great, high snow-waves were now to be seen +in all directions. On one of the cases in the depot Bjaaland had +written a short message, besides which we found the signal arranged +with Hassel -- a block of snow on the top of the depot to show +that they had gone by, and that all was well. The cold continued +persistently. The following day we had -41.8º F. Ola and Jens, the +two survivors of the "Three Musketeers," had to be put an end to that +day; it was a shame to keep them alive any longer. And with them the +"Three Musketeers" disappear from this history. They were inseparable +friends, these three; all of them almost entirely black. At Flekkerö, +near Christiansand, where we kept our dogs for several weeks before +taking them on board, Rasmus had got loose, and was impossible to +catch. He always came and slept with his two friends, unless he was +being hunted. We did not succeed in catching him until a few days +before we took them on board, and then he was practically wild. They +were all three tied up on the bridge on board, where I was to have +my team, and from that day my closer acquaintance with the trio is +dated. They were not very civilly disposed for the first month. I +had to make my advances with a long stick -- scratch them on the +back. In this way I insinuated myself into their confidence, and we +became very good friends. But they were a terrible power on board; +wherever these three villains showed themselves, there was always a +row. They loved fighting. They were our fastest dogs. In our races +with empty sledges, when we were driving around Framheim, none of the +others could beat these three. I was always sure of leaving the rest +behind when I had them in my team.</p> + +<p>I had quite given up Lassesen, who had been left behind that morning, +and I was very sorry for it, as he was my strongest and most willing +beast. I was glad, therefore, when he suddenly appeared again, +apparently fit and well. We presumed that he had dug up Thor again, +and finished him. It must have been food that had revived him. From +80º S. home he did remarkably good work in Wisting's team.</p> + +<p>That day we had a curious experience, which was useful for the +future. The compass on Hanssen's sledge, which had always been +reliability itself, suddenly began to go wrong; at any rate, it did +not agree with the observations of the sun, which we fortunately had +that day. We altered our course in accordance with our bearings. In +the evening, when we took our things into the tent, the housewife, +with scissors, pins, needles, etc., had lain close against the +compass. No wonder it turned rebellious.</p> + +<p>On March 19 we had a breeze from the south-east and -45.4º F. "Rather +fresh," I find noted in my diary. Not long after we had started that +morning, Hanssen caught sight of our old tracks. He had splendid +eyesight -- saw everything long before anyone else. Bjaaland also had +good sight, but he did not come up to Hanssen. The way home was now +straightforward, and we could see the end of our journey. Meanwhile +a gale sprang up from the south-east, which stopped us for a day; +temperature, -29.2º F. Next day the temperature had risen, as usual, +with a south-east wind; we woke up to find it +15.8º F. on the +morning of the 21st. That was a difference that could be felt, and +not an unpleasant one; we had had more than enough of -40º. It was +curious weather that night: violent gusts of wind from the east and +south-east, with intervals of dead calm -- just as if they came off +high land. On our way northward that day we passed our flag No. 6, +and then knew that we were fifty-three miles from Framheim. Pitched +our camp that evening at thirty-seven miles from the station. We +had intended to take this stretch of the way in two days, seeing +how tired the dogs were; but it turned out otherwise, for we lost +our old tracks during the forenoon, and in going on we came too far +to the east, and high up on the ridge mentioned before. Suddenly +Hanssen sang out that he saw something funny in front -- what it +was he did not know. When that was the case, we had to apply to the +one who saw even better than Hanssen, and that was my glass. Up with +the glass, then -- the good old glass that has served me for so many +years. Yes, there was certainly something curious. It must be the +Bay of Whales that we were looking down into, but what were those +black things moving up and down? They are our fellows hunting seals, +someone suggested, and we all agreed. Yes, of course, it was so clear +that there was no mistaking it. "I can see a sledge -- and there's +another -- and there's a third." We nearly had tears in our eyes to +see how industrious they were. "Now they're gone. No; there they are +again. Strange how they bob up and down, those fellows!" It proved to +be a mirage; what we saw was Framheim with all its tents. Our lads, +we were sure, were just taking a comfortable midday nap, and the +tears we were nearly shedding were withdrawn. Now we could survey +the situation calmly. There lay Framheim, there was Cape Man's Head, +and there West Cape, so that we had come too far to the east. "Hurrah +for Framheim! half-past seven this evening," shouted one. "Yes, that's +all we can do," cried another; and away we went. We set our course +straight for the middle of the bay. We must have got pretty high up, +as we went down at a terrific pace. This was more than the forerunner +could manage; he flung himself on a sledge as it went by. I had a +glimpse of Hanssen, who was busy making a whip-handle, as I passed; +the soles of his feet were then very prominent. I myself was lying +on Hanssen's sledge, shaking with laughter; the situation was too +comical. Hanssen picked himself up again just as the last sledge was +passing and jumped on. We all collected in a mass below the ridge -- +sledges and dogs mixed up together.</p> + +<p>The last part of the way was rather hard work. We now found the +tracks that we had lost early in the day; one dried fish after +another stuck up out of the snow and led us straight on. We reached +Framheim at seven in the evening, half an hour earlier than we had +thought. It was a day's march of thirty-seven miles -- not so bad +for exhausted dogs. Lassesen was the only one I brought home out of +my team. Odin, whom I had sent home from 81º S., died after arriving +there. We lost altogether eight dogs on this trip; two of Stubberud's +died immediately after coming home from 81º S. Probably the cold was +chiefly responsible; I feel sure that with a reasonable temperature +they would have come through. The three men who came home from 81º +S. were safe and sound. It is true that they had run short of food +and matches the last day, but if the worst came to the worst, they +had the dogs. Since their return they had shot, brought in, cut up, +and stowed away, fifty seals -- a very good piece of work.</p> + +<p>Lindström had been untiring during our absence; he had put everything +in splendid order. In the covered passage round the hut he had cut out +shelves in the snow and filled them with slices of seal meat. Here +alone there were steaks enough for the whole time we should spend +here. On the outer walls of the hut, which formed the other side of +the passage, he had put up shelves, and there all kinds of tinned +foods were stored. All was in such perfect order that one could put +one's hand on what one wanted in the dark. There stood salt meat +and bacon by themselves, and there were fish-cakes. There you read +the label on a tin of caramel pudding, and you could be sure that +the rest of the caramel puddings were in the vicinity. Quite right; +there they stood in a row, like a company of soldiers. Oh, Lindström, +how long will this order last?</p> + +<p>Well, that was, of course, a question I put to myself in the strictest +secrecy. Let me turn over my diary. On Thursday, July 27, I find the +following entry: "The provision passage turns our days into chaotic +confusion. How my mind goes back to the time when one could find +what one wanted without a light of any kind! If you put out your hand +to get a plum-pudding and shut it again, you could be sure it was a +plum-pudding you had hold of. And so it was throughout Lindström's +department. But now -- good Heavens! I am ashamed to put down what +happened to me yesterday. I went out there in the most blissful +ignorance of the state of things now prevailing, and, of course, +I had no light with me, for everything had its place. I put out my +hand and grasped. According to my expectation I ought to have been in +possession of a packet of candles, but the experiment had failed. That +which I held in my hand could not possibly be a packet of candles. It +was evident from the feel that it was something of a woollen nature. I +laid the object down, and had recourse to the familiar expedient +of striking a match. Do you know what it was? A dirty old -- pair +of pants! and do you want to know where I found it? Well, it was +between the butter and the sweetmeats. That was mixing things up +with a vengeance." But Lindström must not have all the blame. In this +passage everyone was running backwards and forwards, early and late, +and as a rule in the dark. And if they knocked something down on the +way, I am not quite sure that they always stopped to pick it up again.</p> + +<p>Then he had painted the ceiling of the room white. How cosy it +looked when we put our heads in that evening! He had seen us a long +way off on the Barrier, the rascal, and now the table was laid with +all manner of dainties. But seal-steaks and the smell of coffee were +what attracted us, and it was no small quantity that disappeared that +evening. Home! -- that word has a good sound, wherever it may be, at +sea, on land, or on -- the Barrier. How comfortable we made ourselves +that night! The first thing we did now was to dry all our reindeer-skin +clothes; they were wet through. This was not to be done in a hurry. We +had to stretch the garments that were to be dried on lines under the +ceiling of the room, so that we could not dry very much at a time.</p> + +<p>We got everything ready, and made some improvements in our outfit +for a last depot journey before the winter set in. This time the +destination was 80º S., with about a ton and a quarter of fresh seal +meat. How immensely important it would be on the main journey if we +could give our dogs as much seal meat as they could eat at 80º S.; +we all saw the importance of this, and were eager to carry it out. We +set to work once more at the outfit; the last trip had taught us much +that was new. Thus Prestrud and Johansen had come to the conclusion +that a double sleeping-bag was preferable to two single ones. I will +not enter upon the discussion that naturally arose on this point. The +double bag has many advantages, and so has the single bag; let it +therefore remain a matter of taste. Those two were, however, the only +ones who made this alteration. Hanssen and Wisting were busy carrying +out the new idea for the tents, and it was not long before they had +finished. These tents are as much like a snow hut in form as they can +be; instead of being entirely round, they have a more oblong form, +but there is no flat side, and the wind has no point of attack. Our +personal outfit also underwent some improvements.</p> + +<p>The Bay of Whales -- the inner part of it, from Man's Head to West +Cape -- was now entirely frozen over, but outside the sea lay immense +and dark. Our house was now completely covered with snow. Most of +this was Lindström's work; the blizzard had not helped him much. This +covering with snow has a great deal to do with keeping the hut snug +and warm. Our dogs -- 107 in number -- mostly look like pigs getting +ready for Christmas; even the famished ones that made the last trip +are beginning to recover. It is an extraordinary thing how quickly +such an animal can put on flesh.</p> + +<p>It was interesting to watch the home-coming of the dogs from the +last trip. They showed no sign of surprise when we came into camp; +they might have been there all the time. It is true they were rather +more hungry than the rest. The meeting between Lassesen and Fix was +comic. These two were inseparable friends; the first-named was boss, +and the other obeyed him blindly. On this last trip I had left Fix at +home, as he did not give me the impression of being quite up to the +work; he had therefore put on a lot of flesh, big eater as he was. I +stood and watched their meeting with intense curiosity. Would not Fix +take advantage of the occasion to assume the position of boss? In such +a mass of dogs it took some little time before they came across each +other. Then it was quite touching. Fix ran straight up to the other, +began to lick him, and showed every sign of the greatest affection +and joy at seeing him again. Lassesen, on his part, took it all with +a very superior air, as befits a boss. Without further ceremony, he +rolled his fat friend in the snow and stood over him for a while -- +no doubt to let him know that he was still absolute master, beyond +dispute. Poor Fix! -- he looked quite crestfallen. But this did not +last long; he soon avenged himself on the other, knowing that he +could tackle him with safety.</p> + +<p>In order to give a picture of our life as it was at this time, I +will quote a day from my diary. March 25 -- Saturday: "Beautiful mild +weather, +6.8º F. all day. Very light breeze from the south-east. Our +seal-hunters -- the party that came home from 81º S. -- were out this +morning, and brought back three seals. This makes sixty-two seals +altogether since their return on March 11. We have now quite enough +fresh meat both for ourselves and for all our dogs. We get to like +seal-steak more and more every day. We should all be glad to eat it +at every meal, but we think it safer to make a little variety. For +breakfast -- eight o'clock -- we now have regularly hot cakes with +jam, and Lindström knows how to prepare them in a way that could not +be surpassed in the best American houses. In addition, we have bread, +butter, cheese, and coffee. For dinner we mostly have seal meat (we +introduced rather more tinned meat into the menu in the course of the +winter), and sweets in the form of tinned Californian fruit, tarts, +and tinned puddings. For supper, seal-steak, with whortleberry jam, +cheese, bread, butter, and coffee. Every Saturday evening a glass of +toddy and a cigar. I must frankly confess that I have never lived so +well. And the consequence is that we are all in the best of health, and +I feel certain that the whole enterprise will be crowned with success.</p> + +<p>"It is strange indeed here to go outside in the evening and see the +cosy, warm lamp-light through the window of our little snow-covered +hut, and to feel that this is our snug, comfortable home on the +formidable and dreaded Barrier. All our little puppies -- as round +as Christmas pigs -- are wandering about outside, and at night they +lie in crowds about the door. They never take shelter under a roof +at night. They must be hardy beasts. Some of them are so fat that +they waddle just like geese."</p> + +<p>The aurora australis was seen for the first time on the evening of +March 28. It was composed of shafts and bands, and extended from the +south-west to the north-east through the zenith. The light was pale +green and red. We see many fine sunsets here, unique in the splendour +of their colour. No doubt the surroundings in this fairyland of blue +and white do much to increase their beauty.</p> + +<p>The departure of the last depot journey was fixed for Friday, March +31. A few days before, the seal-hunting party went out on the ice and +shot six seals for the depot. They were cleaned and all superfluous +parts removed, so that they should not be too heavy. The weight of +these six seals was then estimated at about 2,400 pounds.</p> + +<p>On March 31, at 10 a.m., the last depot party started. It consisted +of seven men, six sledges, and thirty-six dogs. I did not go myself +this time. They had the most beautiful weather to begin their journey +-- dead calm and brilliantly clear. At seven o'clock that morning, +when I came out of the hut, I saw a sight so beautiful that I shall +never forget it. The whole surroundings of the station lay in deep, +dark shadow, in lee of the ridge to the east. But the sun's rays +reached over the Barrier farther to the north, and there the Barrier +lay golden red, bathed in the morning sun. It glittered and shone, +red and gold, against the jagged row of mighty masses of ice that +bounds our Barrier on the north. A spirit of peace breathed over +all. But from Framheim the smoke ascended quietly into the air, +and proclaimed that the spell of thousands of years was broken.</p> + +<p>The sledges were heavily loaded when they went southward. I saw them +slowly disappear over the ridge by the starting-place. It was a quiet +time that followed after all the work and hurry of preparation. Not +that we two who stayed at home sat still doing nothing. We made +good use of the time. The first thing to be done was to put our +meteorological station in order. On April 1 all the instruments +were in use. In the kitchen were hung our two mercury barometers, +four aneroids, barograph, thermograph, and one thermometer. They were +placed in a well-protected corner, farthest from the stove. We had +no house as yet for our outside instruments, but the sub-director +went to work to prepare one as quickly as possible, and so nimble +were his hands that when the depot party returned there was the +finest instrument-screen standing ready on the hill, painted white +so that it shone a long way off: The wind-vane was a work of art, +constructed by our able engineer, Sundbeck. No factory could have +supplied a more handsome or tasteful one. In the instrument-screen we +had a thermograph, hygrometer, and thermometers. Observations were +made at 8 a.m., 2 p.m., and 8 p.m. When I was at home I took them, +and when I was away it was Lindström's work.</p> + +<p>On the night before April 11 something or other fell down in the +kitchen -- according to Lindström, a sure sign that the travellers +might be expected home that day. And, sure enough, at noon we caught +sight of them up at the starting-place. They came across at such a +pace that the snow was scattered all round them, and in an hour's +time we had them back. They had much to tell us. In the first place, +that everything had been duly taken to the depot in 80ºS. Then they +surprised me with an account of a fearfully crevassed piece of +surface that they had come upon, forty-six and a half miles from +the station, where they had lost two dogs. This was very strange; +we had now traversed this stretch of surface four times without being +particularly troubled with anything of this sort, and then, all of a +sudden, when they thought the whole surface was as solid as a rock, +they found themselves in danger of coming to grief altogether. In +thick weather they had gone too far to the west; then, instead of +arriving at the ridge, as we had done before, they came down into the +valley, and there found a surface so dangerous that they nearly had +a catastrophe. It was a precisely similar piece of surface to that +already mentioned to the south of 81º S., but full of small hummocks +everywhere. The ground was apparently solid enough, and this was just +the most dangerous thing about it; but, as they were crossing it, +large pieces of the surface fell away just in rear of them, disclosing +bottomless crevasses, big enough to swallow up everything -- men, dogs, +and sledges. With some difficulty they got out of this ugly place by +steering to the east. Now we knew of it, and we should certainly be +very careful not to come that way again. In spite of this, however, +we afterwards had an even more serious encounter with this nasty trap.</p> + +<p>One dog had also been left behind on the way; it had a wound on one +of its feet, and could not be harnessed in the sledge. It had been +let loose a few miles to the north of the depot, doubtless with the +idea that it would follow the sledges. But the dog seemed to have +taken another view of the matter, and was never seen again. There +were some who thought that the dog had probably returned to the depot, +and was now passing its days in ease and luxury among the laboriously +transported seals' carcasses. I must confess that this idea was not +very attractive to me; there was, indeed, a possibility that such a +thing had happened, and that the greater part of our seal meat might +be missing when we wanted it. But our fears proved groundless; Cook -- +that was the name of the dog; we had a Peary as well, of course -- +was gone for ever.</p> + +<p>The improved outfit was in every way successful. Praises of the new +tent were heard on every hand, and Prestrud and Johansen were in the +seventh heaven over their double sleeping-bag. I fancy the others +were very well satisfied with their single ones.</p> + +<p>And with this the most important part of the autumn's work came to +an end. The foundation was solidly laid; now we had only to raise +the edifice. Let us briefly sum up the work accomplished between +January 14 and April 11: The complete erection of the station, +with accommodation for nine men for several years; provision of +fresh meat for nine men and a hundred and fifteen dogs for half a +year -- the weight of the seals killed amounted to about 60 tons; +and, finally, the distribution of 3 tons of supplies in the depots in +latitudes 80º, 81º, and 82ºS. The depot in 80ºS. contained seal meat, +dogs' pemmican, biscuits, butter, milk-powder, chocolate, matches, +and paraffin, besides a quantity of outfit. The total weight of this +depot was 4,200 pounds. In 81ºS., 1/2 ton of dogs' pemmican. In 82ºS., +pemmican, both for men and dogs, biscuits, milk-powder, chocolate, +and paraffin, besides a quantity of outfit. The weight of this depot +amounted to 1,366 pounds.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER VII: <a name="vii"></a> +Preparing for Winter</h2> + +<p>Winter! I believe most people look upon winter as a time of storms, +cold, and discomfort. They look forward to it with sadness, and bow +before the inevitable -- Providence ordains it so. The prospect of a +ball or two cheers them up a little, and makes the horizon somewhat +brighter; but, all the same -- darkness and cold -- ugh, no! let us +have summer, they say. What my comrades thought about the winter +that was approaching I cannot say; for my part, I looked forward +to it with pleasure. When I stood out there on the snow hill, and +saw the light shining out of the kitchen window, there came over me +an indescribable feeling of comfort and well-being. And the blacker +and more stormy the winter night might be, the greater would be this +feeling of well-being inside our snug little house. I see the reader's +questioning look, and know what he will say: "But weren't you awfully +afraid the Barrier would break off, and float you out to sea?" I will +answer this question as frankly as possible. With one exception, we +were all at this time of the opinion that the part of the Barrier on +which the hut stood rested on land, so that any fear of a sea voyage +was quite superfluous. As to the one who thought we were afloat, I +think I can say very definitely that he was not afraid. I believe, +as a matter of fact, that he gradually came round to the same view +as the rest of us.</p> + +<p>If a general is to win a battle, he must always be prepared. If +his opponent makes a move, he must see that he is able to make a +counter-move; everything must be planned in advance, and nothing +unforeseen. We were in the same position; we had to consider beforehand +what the future might bring, and make our arrangements accordingly +while there was time. When the sun had left us, and the dark period +had set in, it would be too late. What first of all claimed our +attention and set our collective brain-machinery to work was the female +sex. There was no peace for us even on the Barrier. What happened +was that the entire feminine population -- eleven in number -- had +thought fit to appear in a condition usually considered "interesting," +but which, under the circumstances, we by no means regarded in that +light. Our hands were indeed full enough without this. What was to be +done? Great deliberation. Eleven maternity hospitals seemed rather a +large order, but we knew by experience that they all required first +aid. If we left several of them in the same place there would be a +terrible scene, and it would end in their eating up each other's +pups. For what had happened only a few days before? Kaisa, a big +black-and-white bitch, had taken a three-months-old pup when no one +was looking, and made a meal off it. When we arrived we saw the tip +of its tail disappearing, so there was not much to be done. Now, +it fortunately happened that one of the dog-tents became vacant, as +Prestrud's team was divided among the other tents; as "forerunner," +he had no use for dogs. Here, with a little contrivance, we could +get two of them disposed of; a dividing wall could be put up. When +first laying out the station, we had taken this side of life into +consideration, and a "hospital" in the shape of a sixteen-man tent +had been erected; but this was not nearly enough. We then had recourse +to the material of which there is such superabundance in these parts +of the earth-snow. We erected a splendid big snow-hut. Besides this, +Lindström in his leisure hours had erected a little building, which was +ready when we returned from the second depot journey. We had none of +us asked what it was for, but now we knew Lindström's kind heart. With +these arrangements at our disposal we were able to face the winter.</p> + +<p>Camilla, the sly old fox, had taken things in time; she knew what +it meant to bring up children in the dark, and, in truth, it was +no pleasure. She had therefore made haste, and was ready as soon as +the original "hospital" was prepared. She could now look forward to +the future with calmness in the last rays of the disappearing sun; +when darkness set in, her young ones would be able to look after +themselves. Camilla, by the way, had her own views of bringing up +her children. What there was about the hospital that she did not +like I do not know, but it is certain that she preferred any other +place. It was no rare thing to come across Camilla in a tearing gale +and a temperature twenty below zero with one of her offspring in her +mouth. She was going out to look for a new place. Meanwhile, the three +others, who had to wait, were shrieking and howling. The places she +chose were not, as a rule, such as we should connect with the idea of +comfort; a case, for instance, standing on its side, and fully exposed +to the wind, or behind a stack of planks, with a draught coming through +that would have done credit to a factory chimney. But if she liked it, +there was nothing to be said. If the family were left alone in such +a place, she would spend some days there before moving on again. She +never returned to the hospital voluntarily, but it was not a rare thing +to see Johansen, who was guardian to the family, hauling off the lady +and as many of her little ones as he could get hold of in a hurry. They +then disappeared into the hospital with words of encouragement.</p> + +<p>At the same time we introduced a new order of things with our +dogs. Hitherto we had been obliged to keep them tied up on account of +seal-hunting; otherwise they went off by themselves and ravaged. There +were certain individuals who specially distinguished themselves in +this way, like Wisting's Major. He was a born hunter, afraid of +nothing. Then there was Hassel's Svarten; but a good point about +him was that he went off alone, while the Major always had a whole +staff with him. They usually came back with their faces all covered +with blood. To put a stop to this sport we had been obliged to keep +them fast; but now that the seals had left us, we could let them +loose. Naturally the first use to which they put their liberty was +fighting. In the course of time -- for reasons impossible to discover +-- bitter feelings and hatred had arisen between certain of the dogs, +and now they were offered an opportunity of deciding which was the +stronger, and they seized upon it with avidity. But after a time their +manners improved, and a regular fight became a rarity. There were, +of course, a few who could never see each other without flying at one +another's throats, like Lassesen and Hans, for instance; but we knew +their ways, and could keep an eye on them. The dogs soon knew their +respective tents, and their places in them. They were let loose as +soon as we came out in the morning, and were chained up again in the +evening when they were to be fed. They got so used to this that we +never had much trouble; they all reported themselves cheerfully when +we came in the evening to fasten them up, and every animal knew his +own master and tent, and knew at once what was expected of him. With +howls of delight the various dogs collected about their masters, and +made for the tents in great jubilation. We kept up this arrangement +the whole time. Their food consisted of seal's flesh and blubber one +day, and dried fish the next; as a rule, both disappeared without any +objection, though they certainly preferred the seal. Throughout the +greater part of the winter we had carcasses of seals lying on the +slope, and these were usually a centre of great interest. The spot +might be regarded as the market-place of Framheim, and it was not +always a peaceful one. The customers were many and the demand great, +so that sometimes lively scenes took place. Our own store of seal's +flesh was in the "meat-tent." About a hundred seals had been cut up and +stacked there. As already mentioned, we built a wall of snow, two yards +high, round this tent, as a protection against the dogs. Although they +had as much to eat as they wanted, and although they knew they were not +allowed to try to get in -- or possibly this prohibition was just the +incentive -- they were always casting longing eyes in that direction, +and the number of claw-marks in the wall spoke eloquently of what went +on when we were not looking. Snuppesen, in particular, could not keep +herself away from that wall, and she was extremely light and agile, +so that she had the best chance. She never engaged in this sport by +herself, but always enticed out her attendant cavaliers, Fix and Lasse; +these, however, were less active, and had to be content with looking +on. While she jumped inside the wall -- which she only succeeded in +doing once or twice -- they ran round yelling. As soon as we heard +their howls, we knew exactly what was happening, and one of us went +out, armed with a stick. It required some cunning to catch her in the +act, for as soon as one approached, her cavaliers stopped howling, and +she understood that something was wrong. Her red fox's head could then +be seen over the top, looking round. It need scarcely be said that she +did not jump into the arms of the man with the stick, but, as a rule, +he did not give up until he had caught and punished her. Fix and Lasse +also had their turns; it was true they had done nothing wrong, but +they might. They knew this, and watched Snuppesen's chastisement at +a distance. The tent where we kept the dried fish stood always open; +none of them attempted to take fish.</p> + +<p>The sun continued its daily course, lower and lower. We did not see +much of it after the return from the last depot journey; on April +11 it came, and vanished again at once. Easter came round on the +Barrier, as in other parts of the globe, and had to be kept. Holidays +with us were marked by eating a little more than usual; there was no +other sign. We did not dress differently, nor did we introduce any +other change. In the evening of a holiday we generally had a little +gramophone, a glass of toddy, and a cigar; but we were careful with +the gramophone. We knew we should soon get tired of it if we used +it too often; therefore we only brought it out on rare occasions, +but we enjoyed its music all the more when we heard it. When Easter +was over, a sigh of relief escaped us all; these holidays are always +tiring. They are tedious enough in places which have more amusements +to offer than the Barrier, but here they were insufferably long.</p> + +<p>Our manner of life was now completely in order, and everything worked +easily and well. The chief work of the winter would be the perfecting +of our outfit for the coming sledge journey to the South. Our +object was to reach the Pole -- everything else was secondary. The +meteorological observations were in full swing and arranged for +the winter. Observations were made at 8 a.m., 2 p.m., and 8 p.m. We +were so short-handed that I could not spare anyone for night duty, +besides which, living as we did in a small space, it would have a +disturbing effect if there were always someone moving about; there +would never be any peace. My special aim was that everyone should +be happy and comfortable, so that, when the spring came, we might +all be fresh and well and eager to take up the final task. It was +not my intention that we should spend the winter in idleness -- far +from it. To be contented and well, a man must always be occupied. I +therefore expected everyone to be busy during the hours that were set +apart for work. At the end of the day each man was free to do what +he pleased. We had also to keep some sort of order and tidiness, as +well as circumstances permitted. It was therefore decided that each +of us should take a week's duty as "orderly." This duty consisted +in sweeping the floor every morning, emptying ash-trays, etc. To +secure plenty of ventilation -- especially in our sleeping-places -- +a rule was made that no one might have anything under his bunk except +the boots he had in wear. Each man had two pegs to hang his clothes +on, and this was sufficient for what he was wearing every day; all +superfluous clothing was stuffed into our kit-bags and put out. In +this way we succeeded in maintaining some sort of tidiness; in any +case, the worst of the dirt was got rid of. Whether a fastidious +housekeeper would have found everything in order is doubtful.</p> + +<p>Everyone had his regular work. Prestrud, with the assistance +of Johansen, looked after the astronomical observations and the +pendulum observations. Hassel was set in authority over coal, wood, +and paraffin; he was responsible for the supply lasting out. As manager +of the Framheim coal and wood business, he, of course, received the +title of Director, and this dignity might possibly have gone to his +head if the occupation of errand-boy had not been combined with it. But +it was. Besides receiving the orders, he had to deliver the goods, and +he discharged his duties with distinction. He succeeded in hoodwinking +his largest customer -- Lindström -- to such an extent that, in the +course of the winter, he saved a good deal of coal. Hanssen had to +keep the depot in order and bring in everything we required. Wisting +had charge of the whole outfit, and was responsible that nothing was +touched without permission. Bjaaland and Stubberud were to look after +the pent-house and the passage round the hut. Lindström was occupied in +the kitchen -- the hardest and most thankless work on an expedition +like this. No one says anything so long as the food is good; but +let the cook be unlucky and burn the soup one day, and he will hear +something. Lindström had the excellent disposition of a man who is +never put out; whatever people might say, it was "all the same" to him.</p> + +<p>On April 19 we saw the sun for the last time, since it then went +below our horizon -- the ridge to the north. It was intensely red, +and surrounded by a sea of flame, which did not disappear altogether +until the 21st. Now everything was well. As far as the hut was +concerned, it could not be better; but the pent-house, which it was +originally intended to use as a workroom, soon proved too small, +dark, and cold, besides which all the traffic went through that room, +so that work would be constantly interrupted or stopped altogether +at times. Except this dark hole we had no workroom, and we had a lot +of work to do. Of course, we might use our living-room, but then we +should be in each other's way all day long; nor would it be a good +plan to give up the only room where we could sometimes find peace +and comfort to be a workshop. I know it is the usual custom to +do so, but I have always found it a bad arrangement. Now, indeed, +we were at our wits' end, but circumstances once more came to our +aid. For we may just as well confess it: we had forgotten to bring +out a tool which is a commonplace necessity on a Polar expedition -- +namely, a snow-shovel. A well-equipped expedition, as ours was to +a certain extent, ought to have at least twelve strong, thick iron +spades. We had none. We had two remnants, but they did not help +us very far. Fortunately, however, we had a very good, solid iron +plate with us, and now Bjaaland stepped into the breach, and made a +whole dozen of the very best spades. Stubberud managed the handles, +and they might all have been turned out by a big factory. This +circumstance had very important results for our future well-being, +as will be seen. If we had had the shovels with us from the start, +we should have cleared the snow away from our door every morning, +like tidy people. But as we had none, the snow had increased daily +before our door, and, before Bjaaland was ready with the spades, +had formed a drift extending from the entrance along the western side +of the house. This snow-drift, which was as big as the house itself, +naturally caused some frowns, when one morning all hands turned out, +armed with the new shovels, to make a clearance. As we stood there, +afraid to begin, one of us -- it must have been Lindström, or Hanssen +perhaps, or was it myself? well, it doesn't matter -- one of us had +the bright idea of taking Nature in hand, and working with her instead +of against her. The proposal was that we should dig out a carpenter's +shop in the big snow-drift, and put it in direct communication with +the hut. This was no sooner suggested than adopted unanimously. And +now began a work of tunnelling which lasted a good while, for one +excavation led to another, and we did not stop until we had a whole +underground village -- probably one of the most interesting works +ever executed round a Polar station. Let us begin with the morning +when we thrust the first spade into the drift; it was Thursday, +April 20. While three men went to work to dig right into the drift +from the hut door westward, three more were busy connecting it with +the hut. This was done by stretching boards -- the same that we had +used on the Fram as a false deck for the dogs -- from the drift up +to the roof of the pent-house. The open part between the drift and +the pent-house on the northern side was filled up entirely into a +solid wall, which went up to join the roof that had just been put +on. The space between the pent-house and the drift on the south wall +was left open as an exit. But now we had the building fever on us, +and one ambitious project succeeded another. Thus we agreed to dig +a passage the whole length of the drift, and terminate it by a large +snow-hut, in which we were to have a vapour bath. That was something +like a plan -- a vapour bath in 79ºS. Hanssen, snow-hut builder by +profession, went to work at it. He built it quite small and solid, +and extended it downward, so that, when at last it was finished, it +measured 12 feet from floor to roof. Here we should have plenty of +room to fit up a vapour bath. Meanwhile the tunnellers were advancing; +we could hear the sound of their pickaxes and spades coming nearer +and nearer. This was too much for Hanssen. As he had now finished +the hut, he set to work to dig his way to the others; and when he +begins a thing, it does not take him very long. We could hear the two +parties continually nearing each other. The excitement increases. Will +they meet? Or are they digging side by side on different lines? The +Simplon, Mont Cenis, and other engineering works, flashed through my +brain. If they were going to hit it off, we must be -- hullo! I was +interrupted in my studies by a glistening face, which was thrust +through the wall just as I was going to dig my spade into it. It +was Wisting, pioneer of the Framheim tunnel. He had good reason to +be glad he escaped with his nose safe and sound. In another instant +I should have had it on my spade. It was a fine sight, this long, +white passage, ending in the high, shining dome. As we dug forward, +we dug down at the same time so as not to weaken the roof. There was +plenty to take down below; the Barrier was deep enough.</p> + +<p>When this was finished, we began to work on the carpenter's shop. This +had to be dug considerably deeper, as the drift was rounded off +a little to the side. We therefore dug first into the drift, and +then right down; as far as I remember, we went 6 feet down into the +Barrier here. The shop was made roomy, with space enough for both +carpenters and length enough for our sledges. The planing-bench was +cut out in the wall and covered with boards. The workshop terminated +at its western end in a little room, where the carpenters kept their +smaller tools. A broad stairway, cut in the snow and covered with +boards, led from the shop into the passage. As soon as the workshop +was finished, the workmen moved in, and established themselves under +the name of the Carpenters' Union. Here the whole sledging outfit for +the Polar journey was remodelled. Opposite the carpenters came the +smithy, dug to the same depth as the other; this was less used. On the +other side of the smithy, nearer to the hut, a deep hole was dug to +receive all the waste water from the kitchen. Between the Carpenters' +Union and the entrance to the pent-house, opposite the ascent to the +Barrier, we built a little room, which, properly speaking, deserves +a very detailed explanation; but, for want of space, this must be +deferred till later. The ascent to the Barrier, which had been left +open while all these works were in progress, was now closed by a +contrivance which is also worth mentioning. There are a great many +people who apparently have never learnt to shut a door after them; +where two or three are gathered together, you generally find at least +one who suffers from this defect. How many would there be among us, +who numbered nine? It is no use asking a victim of this complaint +to shut the door after him; he is simply incapable of doing it. I +was not yet well enough acquainted with my companions as regards the +door-shutting question, and in order to be on the safe side we might +just as well put up a self-closing door. This was done by Stubberud, +by fixing the door-frame into the wall in an oblique position just +like a cellar-door at home. Now the door could not stay open; it had +to fall to. I was glad when I saw it finished; we were secured against +an invasion of dogs. Four snow steps covered with boards led from +the door down into the passage. In addition to all these new rooms, +we had thus gained an extra protection for our house.</p> + +<p>While this work was in progress, our instrument-maker had his hands +full; the clockwork mechanism of the thermograph had gone wrong: the +spindle was broken, I believe. This was particularly annoying, because +this thermograph had been working so well in low temperatures. The +other thermograph had evidently been constructed with a view to the +tropics; at any rate, it would not go in the cold. Our instrument-maker +has one method of dealing with all instruments -- almost without +exception. He puts them in the oven, and stokes up the fire. This time +it worked remarkably well, since it enabled him to ascertain beyond a +doubt that the thing was useless. The thermograph would not work in +the cold. Meanwhile he got it cleared of all the old oil that stuck +to it everywhere, on wheels and pins, like fish-glue; then it was +hung up to the kitchen ceiling. The temperature there may possibly +revive it, and make it think it is in the tropics. In this way we +shall have the temperature of the "galley" registered, and later on +we shall probably be able to reckon up what we have had for dinner +in the course of the week. Whether Professor Mohn will be overjoyed +with this result is another question, which the instrument-maker and +director did not care to go into. Besides these instruments we have +a hygrograph -- we are well supplied; but this takes one of us out +of doors once in the twenty-four hours. Lindström has cleaned it and +oiled it and set it going. In spite of this, at three in the morning +it comes to a stop. But I have never seen Lindström beaten yet. After +many consultations he was given the task of trying to construct +a thermograph out of the hygrograph and the disabled thermograph; +this was just the job for him. The production he showed me a few +hours later made my hair stand on end. What would Steen say? Do you +know what it was? Well, it was an old meat-tin circulating inside +the thermograph case. Heavens! what an insult to the self-registering +meteorological instruments! I was thunderstruck, thinking, of course, +that the man was making a fool of me. I had carefully studied his face +all the time to find the key to this riddle, and did not know whether +to laugh or weep. Lindström's face was certainly serious enough; if +it afforded a measure of the situation, I believe tears would have +been appropriate. But when my eye fell upon the thermograph and read, +"Stavanger Preserving Co.'s finest rissoles," I could contain myself +no longer. The comical side of it was too much for me, and I burst +into a fit of laughter. When my laughter was subdued, I heard the +explanation. The cylinder did not fit, so he had tried the tin, and +it went splendidly. The rissole-thermograph worked very well as far +as -40º C., but then it gave up.</p> + +<p>Our forces were now divided into two working parties. One of them +was to dig out some forty seals we had lying about 3 feet under the +snow; this took two days. The heavy seals' carcasses, hard as flint, +were difficult to deal with. The dogs were greatly interested in +these proceedings. Each carcass, on being raised to the surface, +was carefully inspected; they were piled up in two heaps, and would +provide food enough for the dogs for the whole winter. Meanwhile the +other party were at work under Hassel's direction on a petroleum +cellar. The barrels which had been laid up at the beginning of +February were now deep below the snow. They now dug down at both ends +of the store, and made a passage below the surface along the barrels; +at the same time they dug far enough into the Barrier to give the +requisite height for the barrels. When the snow had been thrown out, +one hole was walled up again, while a large entrance was constructed +over the other. Stubberud's knowledge of vaulting came in useful here, +and he has the credit of having built the splendid arched entrance +to the oil-store. It was a pleasure to go down into it; probably no +one has had so fine a storehouse for petroleum before. But Hassel did +not stop here; he had the building fever on him in earnest. His great +project of connecting the coal and wood store with the house below +the surface nearly took my breath away; it seemed to me an almost +superhuman labour, but they did it. The distance from the coal-tent +to the house was about ten yards. Here Hassel and Stubberud laid out +their line so that it would strike the passage round the house at +the south-east angle. When they had done this, they dug a gigantic +hole down into the Barrier half-way between the tent and the house, +and then dug in both directions from here and soon finished the +work. But now Prestrud had an idea. While the hole remained open he +wished to avail himself of the opportunity of arranging an observatory +for his pendulum apparatus, and he made a very good one. He did it by +digging at right angles to the passage, and had his little observatory +between the coal-tent and the house. When all the snow was cleared +out, the big hole was covered over again, and now we could go from +the kitchen direct to the coal-store without going out. First we +followed the passage round the house -- you remember where all the +tinned provisions stood in such perfect order -- then, on reaching +the south-east angle of the house, this new passage opened out and +led across to the coal-tent. In the middle of the passage, on the +right-hand side, a door led into the pendulum observatory. Continuing +along the passage, one came first to some steps leading down, and then +the passage ended in a steep flight of steps which led up through a +hole in the snow surface. On going up this one suddenly found oneself +in the middle of the coal-tent. It was a fine piece of work, and did +all honour to its designers. It paid, too -- Hassel could now fetch +coal at any time under cover, and escaped having to go out of doors.</p> + +<p>But this was not the end of our great underground works. We wanted a +room where Wisting could store all the things in his charge; he was +specially anxious about the reindeer-skin clothing, and wished to +have it under a roof. We therefore decided upon a room sufficiently +large to house all these articles, and at the same time to provide +working-space for Wisting and Hanssen, who would have to lash all +the sledges as fast as they came from Bjaaland. Wisting elected to +build this room in a big snow-drift that had formed around the tent +in which he had kept all his stuff; the spot lay to the north-east +of the house. The Clothing Store, as this building was called, was +fairly large, and provided space not only for all our equipment, but +also for a workshop. From it a door led into a very small room, where +Wisting set up his sewing-machine and worked on it all through the +winter. Continuing in a north-easterly direction, we came to another +big room, called the Crystal Palace, in which all the ski and sledging +cases were stored. Here all the provisions for the sledge journey were +packed. For the time being this room remained separate from the others, +and we had to go out of doors to reach it. Later, when Lindström had +dug out an enormous hole in the Barrier at the spot where he took all +the snow and ice for cooking, we connected this with the two rooms last +mentioned, and were thus finally able to go everywhere under the snow.</p> + +<p>The astronomical observatory had also arisen; it lay right +alongside the Crystal Palace. But it had an air of suffering from +debility, and before very long it passed peacefully away. Prestrud +afterwards invented many patents; he used an empty barrel for a +time as a pedestal, then an old block of wood. His experience of +instrument-stands is manifold.</p> + +<p>All these undertakings were finished at the beginning of May. One last +piece of work remained, and then at last we should be ready. This was +the rebuilding of the depot. The small heaps in which the cases were +piled proved unsatisfactory, as the passages between the different +piles offered a fine site for snow-drifts. All the cases were now taken +out and laid in two long rows, with sufficient intervals between them +to prevent their offering resistance to the drifting snow. This work +was carried out in two days.</p> + +<p>The days were now fairly short, and we were ready to take up our indoor +work. The winter duties were assigned as follows: Prestrud, scientific +observations; Johansen, packing of sledging provisions; Hassel had +to keep Lindström supplied with coal, wood, and paraffin, and to make +whip-lashes -- an occupation he was very familiar with from the Fram's +second expedition; Stubberud was to reduce the weight of the sledge +cases to a minimum, besides doing a lot of other things. There was +nothing he could not turn his hand to, so the programme of his winter +work was left rather vague. I knew he would manage a great deal more +than the sledge cases, though it must be said that it was a tiresome +job he had. Bjaaland was allotted the task which we all regarded +with intense interest -- the alteration of the sledges. We knew that +an enormous amount of weight could be saved, but how much? Hanssen +and Wisting had to lash together the different parts as they were +finished; this was to be done in the Clothing Store. These two had +also a number of other things on their programme for the winter.</p> + +<p>There are many who think that a Polar expedition is synonymous with +idleness. I wish I had had a few adherents of this belief at Framheim +that winter; they would have gone away with a different opinion. Not +that the hours of work were excessively long, the circumstances +forbade that. But during those hours the work was brisk.</p> + +<p>On several previous sledge journeys I had made the experience that +thermometers are very fragile things. It often happens that at the +beginning of a journey one breaks all one's thermometers, and is +left without any means of determining the temperature. If in such +circumstances one had accustomed oneself to guess the temperature, +it would have given the mean temperature for the month with a fair +degree of accuracy. The guesses for single days might vary somewhat +from reality on one side or the other, but, as I say, one would arrive +at a fair estimate of the mean temperature. With this in my mind I +started a guessing competition. As each man came in in the morning he +gave his opinion of the temperature of the day, and this was entered +in a book. At the end of the month the figures were gone through, +and the one who had guessed correctly the greatest number of times +won the prize -- a few cigars. Besides giving practice in guessing the +temperature, it was a very good diversion to begin the day with. When +one day is almost exactly like another, as it was with us, the first +hour of the morning is often apt to be a little sour, especially before +one has had one's cup of coffee. I may say at once that this morning +grumpiness very seldom showed itself with us. But one never knows -- +one cannot always be sure. The most amiable man may often give one a +surprise before the coffee has had its effect. In this respect the +guessing was an excellent thing; it took up everyone's attention, +and diverted the critical moments. Each man's entrance was awaited +with excitement, and one man was not allowed to make his guess in +the hearing of the next -- that would undoubtedly have exercised an +influence. Therefore they had to speak as they came in, one by one.</p> + +<p>"Now, Stubberud, what's the temperature to-day ?" Stubberud had his +own way of calculating, which I never succeeded in getting at. One day, +for instance, he looked about him and studied the various faces.</p> + +<p>"It isn't warm to-day," he said at last, with a great deal of +conviction. I could immediately console him with the assurance that +he had guessed right. It was -69ºF. The monthly results were very +interesting. So far as I remember, the best performance the competition +could show in any month was eight approximately correct guesses. A man +might keep remarkably close to the actual temperature for a long time, +and then suddenly one day make an error of 25º. It proved that the +winner's mean temperature agreed within a few tenths of a degree with +the actual mean temperature of the month, and if one took the mean +of all the competitors' mean temperatures, it gave a result which, +practically speaking, agreed with the reality. It was especially +with this object in view that this guessing was instituted. If +later on we should be so unlucky as to lose all our thermometers, +we should not be entirely at a loss. It may be convenient to mention +here that on the southern sledge journey we had four thermometers +with us. Observations were taken three times daily, and all four +were brought home in undamaged condition. Wisting had charge of this +scientific branch, and I think the feat he achieved in not breaking +any thermometers is unparalleled.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER VIII: <a name="viii"></a> +A Day at Framheim</h2> + +<p>In order to understand our daily life better, we will now make a tour +of Framheim. It is June 23, early in the morning. Perfect stillness +lies over the Barrier -- such stillness as no one who has not been +in these regions has any idea of. We come up the old sledge road from +the place where the Fram used to lie. You will stop several times on +the way and ask whether this can be real; anything so inconceivably +beautiful has never yet been seen. There lies the northern edge of the +Fram Barrier, with Mounts Nelson and Rönniken nearest; behind them, +ridge after ridge, peak after peak, the venerable pressure masses rise, +one higher than another. The light is so wonderful; what causes this +strange glow? It is clear as daylight, and yet the shortest day of the +year is at hand. There are no shadows, so it cannot be the moon. No; +it is one of the few really intense appearances of the aurora australis +that receives us now. It looks as though Nature wished to honour our +guests, and to show herself in her best attire. And it is a gorgeous +dress she has chosen. Perfectly calm, clear with a starry sparkle, +and not a sound in any direction. But wait: what is that? Like a +stream of fire the light shoots across the sky, and a whistling sound +follows the movement. Hush! can't you hear? It shoots forward again, +takes the form of a band, and glows in rays of red and green. It +stands still for a moment, thinking of what direction it shall take, +and then away again, followed by an intermittent whistling sound. So +Nature has offered us on this wonderful morning one of her most +mysterious, most incomprehensible, phenomena -- the audible southern +light. "Now you will be able to go home and tell your friends that you +have personally seen and heard the southern lights, for I suppose you +have no doubt that you have really done so?" "Doubt? How can one be in +doubt about what one has heard with one's own ears and seen with one's +own eyes? "And yet you have been deceived, like so many others! The +whistling northern and southern lights have never existed. They are +only a creation of your own yearning for the mystical, accompanied +by your own breath, which freezes in the cold air. Goodbye, beautiful +dream! It vanishes from the glorious landscape." Perhaps it was stupid +of me to call attention to that; my guests have now lost much of the +beautiful mystery, and the landscape no longer has the same attraction.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile we have come up past Nelson and Rönniken, and are just +climbing the first ridge. Not far away a big tent rises before us, +and in front of it we see two long, dark lines. It is our main depot +that we are coming to, and you can see that we keep our things in good +order, case upon case, as if they had been placed in position by an +expert builder. And they all point the same way; all the numbers face +the north. "What made you choose that particular direction?" is the +natural question. "Had you any special object?" "Oh yes, we had. If +you will look towards the east, you will notice that on the horizon +the sky has a rather lighter, brighter colour there than in any other +part. That is the day as we see it now. At present we cannot see to +do anything by its light. It would have been impossible to see that +these cases were lying with their numbers to the north if it had not +been for the brilliant aurora australis. But that light colour will +rise and grow stronger. At nine o'clock it will be in the north-east, +and we shall be able to trace it ten degrees above the horizon. You +would not then think it gave so much light as it really does, but you +would be able without an effort to read the numbers. What is more, you +would be able to read the makers' names which are marked on several +of the cases, and when the flush of daylight has moved to the north, +you will be able to see them even more clearly. No doubt these figures +and letters are big -- about 2 inches high and 14 inches broad -- +but it shows, nevertheless, that we have daylight here at the darkest +time of the year, so there is not the absolute darkness that people +think. The tent that stands behind there contains dried fish; we have a +great deal of that commodity, and our dogs can never suffer hunger. But +now we must hurry on, if we are to see how the day begins at Framheim.</p> + +<p>"What we are passing now is the mark-flag. We have five of them +standing between the camp and the depot; they are useful on dark days, +when the east wind is blowing and the snow falling. And there on the +slope of the hill you see Framheim. At present it looks like a dark +shadow on the snow, although it is not far away. The sharp peaks you +see pointing to the sky are all our dog tents. The but itself you +cannot see; it is completely snowed under and hidden in the Barrier.</p> + +<p>"But I see you are getting warm with walking. We will go a little more +slowly, so that you won't perspire too much. It is not more than -51º, +so you have every reason to be warm walking. With that temperature +and calm weather like to-day one soon feels warm if one moves about +a little .... The flat place we have now come down into is a sort +of basin; if you bend down and look round the horizon, you will +be able with an effort to follow the ridges and hummocks the whole +way round. Our house lies on the slope we are now approaching. We +chose that particular spot, as we thought it would offer the best +protection, and it turned out that we were right. The wind we have had +has nearly always come from the east, when there was any strength in +it, and against such winds the slope provides an excellent shelter. If +we had placed our house over there where the depot stands, we should +have felt the weather much more severely. But now you must be careful +when we come near to the house, so that the dogs don't hear us. We +have now about a hundred and twenty of them, and if they once start +making a noise, then good-bye to the peaceful Polar morning. Now we +are there, and in such daylight as there is, you can see the immediate +surroundings. You can't see the house, you say. No; I can quite believe +it. That chimney sticking out of the snow is all there is left above +the Barrier. This trap-door we are coming to you might take for a loose +piece of boarding thrown out on the snow, but that is not the case: +it is the way down into our home. You must stoop a bit when you go +down into the Barrier. Everything is on a reduced scale here in the +Polar regions; we can't afford to be extravagant. Now you have four +steps down; take care, they are rather high. Luckily we have come +in time to see the day started. I see the passage-lamp is not yet +lighted, so Lindström has not turned out. Take hold of the tail of +my anorak and follow me. This is a passage in the snow that we are +in, leading to the pent-house. Oh! I'm so sorry; you must forgive +me! Did you hurt yourself? I quite forgot to tell you to look out +for the threshold of the pent-house door. It is not the first time +someone has fallen over it. That's a trap we have all fallen into; +but now we know it, and it doesn't catch us any more.</p> + +<p>"If you will wait a second I'll strike a match, and then we shall +see our way. Here we are in the kitchen. Now make yourself invisible +and follow me all day, and you will see what our life is like. As you +know, it is St. John's Eve, so we shall only work during the forenoon; +but you will be able to see how we spend a holiday evening. When you +send your account home, you must promise me not to paint it in too +strong colours. Good-bye for the present."</p> + +<p>Br-r-r-r-r-r! There's the alarm-clock. I wait and wait and wait. At +home I am always accustomed to hear that noise followed by the passage +of a pair of bare feet across the floor, and a yawn or so. Here -- +not a sound. When Amundsen left me he forgot to say where I could best +put myself. I tried to follow him into the room, but the atmosphere +there -- no thanks! I could easily guess that nine men were sleeping +in a room 19 feet by 13 feet; it did not require anyone to tell me +that. Still not a sound. I suppose they only keep that alarm-clock +to make themselves imagine they are turning out. Wait a minute, +though. "Lindtrom! Lindtrom!" He went by the name of Lindtrom, not +Lindström. "Now, by Jove! you've got to get up! The clock's made row +enough." That's Wisting; I know his voice -- I know him at home. He +was always an early bird. A frightful crash! That's Lindström slipping +out of his bunk. But if he was late in turning out, it did not take +him long to get into his clothes. One! two! three! and there he +stood in the doorway, with a little lamp in his hand. It was now six +o'clock. He looked well; round and fat, as when I saw him last. He is +in dark blue clothes, with a knitted helmet over his head. I should +like to know why; it is certainly not cold in here. For that matter, +I have often felt it colder in kitchens at home in the winter, so that +cannot be the reason. Oh, I have it! He is bald, and doesn't like to +show it. That is often the way with bald men; they hate anyone seeing +it. The first thing he does is to lay the fire. The range is under the +window, and takes up half the 6 feet by 13 feet kitchen. His method of +laying a fire is the first thing that attracts my attention. At home +we generally begin by splitting sticks and laying the wood in very +carefully. But Lindström just shoves the wood in anyhow, all over +the place. Well, if he can make that barn, he's clever. I am still +wondering how he will manage it, when he suddenly stoops down and picks +up a can. Without the slightest hesitation, as though it were the most +natural thing in the world, he pours paraffin over the wood. Not one +or two drops -- oh no; he throws on enough to make sure. A match -- +and then I understood how Lindström got it to light. It was smartly +done, I must say -- but Hassel ought to have seen it! Amundsen had +told me something of their arrangements on the way up, and I knew +Hassel was responsible for coal, wood, and oil.</p> + +<p>The water-pot had been filled the evening before, and he had only to +push it to one side to make room for the kettle, and this did not take +long to boil with the heat he had set going. The fire burned up so that +it roared in the chimney -- this fellow is not short of fuel. Strange, +what a hurry he is in to get that coffee ready! I thought breakfast was +at eight, and it is now not more than a quarter past six. He grinds the +coffee till his cheeks shake to and fro -- incessantly. If the quality +is in proportion to the quantity, it must be good enough. "Devil take +it" -- Lindström's morning greeting -- "this coffee-mill is not worth +throwing to the pigs! Might just as well chew the beans. It wouldn't +take so long." And he is right; after a quarter of an hour's hard +work he has only ground just enough. Now it is half-past six. On with +the coffee! Ah, what a perfume! I would give something to know where +Amundsen got it from. Meanwhile the cook has taken out his pipe, +and is smoking away gaily on an empty stomach; it does not seem to +do him any harm. Hullo! There's the coffee boiling over.</p> + +<p>While the coffee was boiling and Lindström smoked, I was still +wondering why he was in such a hurry to get the coffee ready. You +ass! I thought; can't you see? Of course, he is going to give himself +a drink of fresh, hot coffee before the others are up; that's clear +enough. When the coffee was ready, I sat down on a camp-stool that +stood in a corner, and watched him. But I must say he surprised me +again. He pushed the coffee-kettle away from the fire and took down +a cup from the wall; then went to a jug that stood on the bench and +poured out -- would you believe it? -- a cup of cold tea! If he goes on +in this way, we shall have surprises enough before evening, I thought +to myself. Then he began to be deeply interested in an enamelled iron +bowl, which stood on a shelf above the range. The heat, which was +now intense (I looked at the thermograph which hung from the ceiling; +it registered 84ºF.), did not seem to be sufficient for its mysterious +contents. It was also wrapped up in towels and cloths, and gave me the +impression of having caught a severe cold. The glances he threw into it +from time to time were anxious; he looked at the clock, and seemed to +have something on his mind. Then suddenly I saw his face brighten; he +gave a long, not very melodious whistle, bent down, seized a dust-pan, +and hurried out into the pent-house. Now I was really excited. What was +coming next? He came back at once with a happy smile all over his face, +and the dust-pan full of -- coal! If I had been curious before, I was +now anxious. I withdrew as far as possible from the range, sat down on +the floor itself, and fixed my eyes on the thermograph. As I thought, +the pen began to move upward with rapid steps. This was too bad. I made +up my mind to pay a visit to the Meteorological Institute as soon as +I got home, and tell them what I had seen with my own eyes. But now +the heat seemed intolerable down on the floor, where I was sitting; +what must it be like -- heavens above, the man was sitting on the +stove! He must have gone out of his mind. I was just going to give +a cry of terror, when the door opened, and in came Amundsen from +the room. I gave a deep sigh. Now it would be all right the time +was ten minutes past seven. "'Morning, Fatty!" -- "'Morning." -- +"What's it like outside?" -- "Easterly breeze and thick when I was +out; but that's a good while ago." This fairly took my breath away He +stood there with the coolest air in the world and talked about the +weather, and I could take my oath he had not been outside the door +that morning. "How's it getting on to-day -- is it coming?" Amundsen +looks with interest at the mysterious bowl. Lindström takes another +peep under the cloth. "Yes, it's coming at last; but I've had to give +it a lot to-day." -- " Yes, it feels like it," answers the other, +and goes out. My interest is now divided between "it " in the bowl +and Amundsen's return, with the meteorological discussion that will +ensue. It is not long before he reappears; evidently the temperature +outside is not inviting. "Let's hear again, my friend " -- he seats +himself on the camp-stool beside which I am sitting on the floor -- +"what kind of weather did you say it was?" I prick up my ears; +there is going to be fun. "It was an easterly breeze and thick as +a wall, when I was out at six o'clock." -- "Hm! then it has cleared +remarkably quickly. It's a dead calm now, and quite clear." -- "Ah, +that's just what I should have thought! I could see it was falling +light, and it was getting brighter in the east." He got out of that +well. Meanwhile it was again the turn of the bowl. It was taken down +from the shelf over the range and put on the bench; the various cloths +were removed one by one until it was left perfectly bare. I could +not resist any longer; I had to get up and look. And indeed it was +worth looking at. The bowl was filled to the brim with golden-yellow +dough, full of air-bubbles, and showing every sign that he had got +it to rise. Now I began to respect Lindström; he was a devil of a +fellow. No confectioner in our native latitudes could have shown a +finer dough. It was now 7.25; everything seems to go by the clock here.</p> + +<p>Lindström threw a last tender glance at his bowl, picked up a little +bottle of spirit, and went into the next room. I saw my chance of +following him in. There was not going to be any fun out there with +Amundsen, who was sitting on the camp-stool half asleep. In the other +room it was pitch-dark, and an atmosphere -- no, ten atmospheres at +least! I stood still in the doorway and breathed heavily. Lindström +stumbled forward in the darkness, felt for and found the matches. He +struck one, and lighted a spirit-holder that hung beneath a hanging +lamp. There was not much to be seen by the light of the spirit flame; +one could still only guess. Hear too, perhaps. They were sound +sleepers, those boys. One grunted here and another there; they were +snoring in every corner. The spirit might have been burning for a +couple of minutes, when Lindström had to set to work in a hurry. He was +off just as the flame went out, leaving the room in black darkness. I +heard the spirit bottle and the nearest stool upset, and what followed +I don't know, as I was unfamiliar with the surroundings -- but there +was a good deal of it. I heard a click -- had no idea what it was +-- and then the same movement back again to the lamp. Of course, +he now fell over the stool he had upset before. Meanwhile there was +a hissing sound, and a stifling smell of paraffin. I was thinking of +making my escape through the door, when suddenly, just as I suppose +it happened on the first day of Creation, in an instant there was +light. But it was a light that defies description; it dazzled and +hurt the eyes, it was so bright. It was perfectly white and extremely +agreeable -- when one was not looking at it. Evidently it was one of +the 200-candle Lux lamps. My admiration for Lindström had now risen +to enthusiasm. What would I not have given to be able to make myself +visible, embrace him, and tell him what I thought of him! But that +could not be; I should not then be able to see life at Framheim as it +really was. So I stood still. Lindström first tried to put straight +what he had upset in his struggle with the lamp. The spirit had, of +course, run out of the bottle when it fell, and was now flowing all +over the table. This did not seem to make the slightest impression +on him; a little scoop with his hand, and it all landed on Johansen's +clothes, which were lying close by. This fellow seemed to be as well +off for spirit as for paraffin. Then he vanished into the kitchen, but +reappeared immediately with plates, cups, knives and forks. Lindström's +laying of the breakfast-table was the finest clattering performance +I have ever heard. If he wanted to put a spoon into a cup, he did not +do it in the ordinary way; no, he put down the cup, lifted the spoon +high in the air, and then dropped it into the cup. The noise he made +in this way was infernal. Now I began to see why Amundsen had got +up so early; he wanted to escape this process of laying the table, +I expect. But this gave me at once an insight into the good-humour of +the gentlemen in bed: if this had happened anywhere else, Lindström +would have had a boot at his head. But here -- they must have been +the most peaceable men in the world.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile I had had time to look around me. Close to the door where I +was standing a pipe came down to the floor. It struck me at once that +this was a ventilating-pipe. I bent down and put my hand over the +opening; there was not so much as a hint of air to be felt. So this +was the cause of the bad atmosphere. The next things that caught my +eye were the bunks -- nine of them: three on the right hand and six +on the left. Most of the sleepers -- if they could be regarded as such +while the table was being laid -- slept in bags -- sleeping-bags. They +must have been warm enough. The rest of the space was taken up by +a long table, with small stools on two sides of it. Order appeared +to reign; most of the clothes were hung up. Of course, a few lay on +the floor, but then Lindström had been running about in the dark, +and perhaps he had pulled them down. On the table, by the window, +stood a gramophone and some tobacco-boxes and ash-trays. The furniture +was not plentiful, nor was it in the style of Louis Quinze or Louis +Seize, but it was sufficient. On the wall with the window hung a few +paintings, and on the other portraits of the King, Queen, and Crown +Prince Olav, apparently cut out of an illustrated paper, and pasted +on blue cardboard. In the corner nearest the door on the right, +where there was no bunk, the space seem to be occupied by clothes, +some hanging on the wall, some on lines stretched across. So that was +the drying-place, modest in its simplicity. Under the table were some +varnished boxes -- Heaven knows what they were for!</p> + +<p>Now there seemed to be life in one of the bunks. It was Wisting, +who was getting tired of the noise that still continued. Lindström +took his time, rattling the spoons, smiling maliciously to himself, +and looking up at the bunks. He did not make all this racket for +nothing. Wisting, then, was the first to respond, and apparently the +only one; at any rate, there was not a sign of movement in any of the +others. "Good-morning, Fatty!" "Thought you were going to stop there +till dinner." This is Lindström's greeting. "Look after yourself, old +'un. If I hadn't got you out, you'd have been asleep still." That was +paying him in his own coin: Wisting was evidently not to be trifled +with. However, they smiled and nodded to each other in a way that +showed that there was no harm meant. At last Lindström had got rid +of the last cup, and brought down the curtain on that act with the +dropping of the final spoon. I thought now that he would go back to his +work in the kitchen; but it looked as if he had something else to do +first. He straightened himself, thrust his chin in the air and put his +head back -- reminding me very forcibly of a young cockerel preparing +to crow -- and roared with the full force of his lungs: "Turn out, +boys, and look sharp!" Now he had finished his morning duty there. The +sleeping-bags seemed suddenly to awake to life, and such remarks as, +"That's a devil of a fellow!" or "Shut up, you old chatterbox!" showed +that the inhabitants of Framheim were now awake. Beaming with joy, +the cause of the trouble disappeared into the kitchen.</p> + +<p>And now, one after the other they stick their heads out, followed by +the rest of them. That must be Helmer Hanssen, who was on the Gjöa; +he looks as if he could handle a rope. Ah, and there we have Olav +Olavson Bjaaland! I could have cried aloud for joy -- my old friend +from Holmenkollen. The great long-distance runner, you remember. And +he managed the jump, too -- 50 metres, I think -- standing. If Amundsen +has a few like him, he will get to the Pole all right. And there comes +Stubberud, the man the Aftenpost said was so clever at double-entry +book-keeping. As I see him now, he does not give me the impression +of being a book-keeper -- but one can't tell. And here come Hassel, +Johansen, and Prestrud; now they are all up, and will soon begin the +day's work.</p> + +<p>"Stubberud!" It is Lindström putting his head in at the door. "If +you want any hot cakes, you must get some air down." Stubberud merely +smiles; he looks as if he felt sure of getting them, all the same. What +was it he talked about? Hot cakes? They must be connected with the +beautiful dough and the delicate, seductive smell of cooking that is +now penetrating through the crack of the door. Stubberud is going, +and I must go with him. Yes, as I thought -- there stands Lindström +in all his glory before the range, brandishing the weapon with which +he turns the cakes; and in a pan lie three brownish-yellow buckwheat +cakes quivering with the heat of the fire. Heavens, how hungry it +made me! I take up my old position, so as not to be in anyone's +way, and watch Lindström. He's the man -- he produces hot cakes with +astonishing dexterity; it almost reminds one of a juggler throwing up +balls, so rapid and regular is the process. The way he manipulates +the cake-slice shows a fabulous proficiency. With the skimmer in +one hand he dumps fresh dough into the pan, and with the cake-slice +in the other he removes those that are done, all at the same time; +it seems almost more than human!</p> + +<p>There comes Wisting, salutes, and holds out a little tin mug. Flattered +by the honour, the cook fills his mug with boiling water, and he +disappears into the pent-house. But this interruption puts Lindström +off his jugglery with the hot cakes-one of them rolls down on to the +floor. This fellow is extraordinarily phlegmatic; I can't make out +whether he missed that cake or not. I believe the sigh that escaped +him at the same instant meant something like: "Well, we must leave +some for the dogs."</p> + +<p>And now they all come in single file with their little mugs, and get +each a drop of boiling water. I get up, interested in this proceeding, +and slip out with one of them into the pent-house and so on to the +Barrier. You will hardly believe me, when I tell you what I saw -- all +the Polar explorers standing in a row, brushing their teeth! What do +you say to that? So they are not such absolute pigs, after all. There +was a scent of Stomatol everywhere.</p> + +<p>Here comes Amundsen. He has evidently been out taking the +meteorological observations, as he holds the anemometer in one hand. I +follow him through the passage, and, when no one is looking, take the +opportunity of slapping him on the shoulder and saying "A grand lot +of boys." He only smiled; but a smile may often say more than many +words. I understood what it meant; he had known that a long while +and a good deal more.</p> + +<p>It was now eight o'clock. The door from the kitchen to the room was +left wide open, and the warmth streamed in and mixed with the fresh +air that Stubberud had now forced to come down the right way. Now +it was pleasanter inside -- fresh, warm air everywhere. Then came +a very interesting scene. As the tooth-brushing gentlemen returned, +they had to guess the temperature, one by one. This gave occasion for +much joking and fun, and, amid laughter and chat, the first meal of the +day was taken. In after-dinner speeches, amid toasts and enthusiasm, +our Polar explorers are often compared with our forefathers, the bold +vikings. This comparison never occurred to me for a moment when I saw +this assemblage of ordinary, everyday men-brushing their teeth. But +now that they were busy with the dishes, I was bound to acknowledge +its aptitude; for our forefathers the vikings could not possibly have +attacked their food with greater energy than these nine men did.</p> + +<p>One pile of "hot-chek" after another disappeared as if they had been +made of air -- and I, in my simplicity, had imagined that one of them +was a man's ration! Spread with butter and surmounted with jam, these +cakes slipped down with fabulous rapidity. With a smile I thought +of the conjurer, holding an egg in his hand one minute and making +it disappear the next. If it is a cook's best reward to see his food +appreciated, then, indeed, Lindström had good wages. The cakes were +washed down with big bowls of strong, aromatic coffee. One could +soon trace the effect, and conversation became general. The first +great subject was a novel, which was obviously very popular, and was +called "The Rome Express." It appeared to me, from what was said -- +I have unfortunately never read this celebrated work -- that a murder +had been committed in this train, and a lively discussion arose as +to who had committed it. I believe the general verdict was one of +suicide. I have always supposed that subjects of conversation must +be very difficult to find on expeditions like these, where the same +people mix day after day for years; but there was certainly no sign +of any such difficulty here. No sooner had the express vanished in +the distance than in steamed -- the language question. And it came +at full steam, too. It was clear that there were adherents of both +camps present. For fear of hurting the feelings of either party, I +shall abstain from setting down what I heard: but I may say as much +as this -- that the party of reform ended by declaring the maal[6] to +be the only proper speech of Norway, while their opponents maintained +the same of their language.</p> + +<p>After a while pipes came out, and the scent of "plug" soon struggled +with the fresh air for supremacy. Over the tobacco the work for +the day was discussed. "Well, I'll have enough to do supplying that +woodswallower over the holiday," said Hassel. I gave a chuckle. If +Hassel had known of the way the paraffin was used that morning, +he would have added something about the "oil-drinker," I expect. It +was now half-past eight, and Stubberud and Bjaaland got up. From the +number of different garments they took out and put on, I guessed they +were going out. Without saying anything, they trudged out. Meanwhile +the others continued their morning smoke, and some even began to +read, but by about nine they were all on the move. They put on their +skin clothing and made ready to go out. By this time Bjaaland and +Stubberud had returned from a walk, as I understood from such remarks +as "Beastly cold," "Sharp snow by the depot," and the like. Prestrud +was the only one who did not get ready to go out; he went to an open +space underneath the farthest bunk, where there was a box. He raised +the lid of this, and three chronometers appeared; at the same moment +three of the men produced their watches, and a comparison was made +and entered in a book. After each watch had been compared, its owner +went outside, taking his watch with him. I took the opportunity of +slipping out with the last man -- Prestrud and his chronometers were +too serious for me; I wanted to see what the others were about.</p> + +<p>There was plenty of life outside; dogs' howls in every key came +from the tents. Some of those who had left the house before us were +out of sight, so they had probably gone to their respective tents, +and presently one could see by the lights that they were in the act +of letting their dogs loose. How well the lighted-up tents looked +against the dark, star-strewn sky! Though it could no longer be +called dark: the little flush of dawn had spread and overpowered +the glow of the aurora australis, which had greatly decreased since +I last saw it; evidently it was near its end. Now the four-footed +band began to swarm out, darting like rockets from the tents. Here +were all colours-grey, black, red, brown, white, and a mixture of +all of them. What surprised me was that they were all so small; but +otherwise they looked splendid. Plump and round, well kept and groomed, +bursting with life. They instantly collected into little groups of +from two to five, and it was easy to see that these groups consisted +of intimate friends -- they absolutely petted each other. In each +of these clusters there was one in particular who was made much of; +all the others came round him, licked him, fawned upon him, and gave +him every sign of deference.</p> + +<p>They all run about without a sign of unfriendliness. Their chief +interest seems to be centred in two large black mounds that are visible +in the foreground of the camp; what they are I am unable to make out -- +there is not light enough for that -- but I am probably not far wrong +in guessing that they are seals. They are rather hard eating, anyhow, +for I can hear them crunching under the dogs' teeth. Here there is an +occasional disturbance of the peace; they do not seem to agree so well +over their food, but there is never a regular battle. A watchman is +present, armed with a stick, and when he shows himself and makes his +voice heard, they soon separate. They appear to be well disciplined.</p> + +<p>What appealed to me most was the youngsters and the youngest of +all. The young ones, to judge from their appearance, were about ten +months old. They were perfect in every way; one could see they had been +well cared for from their birth. Their coats were surprisingly thick -- +much more so than those of the older dogs. They were remarkably plucky, +and would not give in to anyone.</p> + +<p>And there are the smallest of all -- like little balls of wool; they +roll themselves in the snow and have great fun. I am astonished that +they can stand the cold as they do; I should never have thought that +such young animals could live through the winter. Afterwards I was +told that they not only bore the cold well, but were far more hardy +than the older ones. While the grown-up dogs were glad to go into their +tents in the evening, the little ones refused to do so; they preferred +to sleep outside. And they did so for a great part of the winter.</p> + +<p>Now all the men have finished unchaining their dogs, and, with +their lanterns in their hands, they move in various directions and +disappear -- apparently into the Barrier surface. There will be many +interesting things to see here in the course of the day -- I can +understand that. What on earth became of all these people? There we +have Amundsen; he is left alone, and appears to be in charge of the +dogs. I go up to him and make myself known.</p> + +<p>"Ah, I'm glad you came," he says; "now I can introduce you to some +of our celebrities. To begin with, here is the trio -- Fix, Lasse, +and Snuppesen. They always behave like this when I am out -- could +not think of leaving me in peace for an instant. Fix, that big grey +one that looks like a wolf, has many a snap on his conscience. His +first exploit was on Flekkerö, near Christiansand, where all the +dogs were kept for a month after they arrived from Greenland; there +he gave Lindström a nasty bite when his back was turned. What do you +think of a bite of a mouth like that?"</p> + +<p>Fix is now tame, and without a growl allows his master to take hold of +his upper and under jaws and open his mouth -- ye gods, what teeth! I +inwardly rejoice that I was not in Lindström's trousers that day.</p> + +<p>"If you notice," he continues, with a smile, "you will see that +Lindström still sits down cautiously. I myself have a mark on my left +calf, and a good many more of us have the same. There are several of +us who still treat him with respect. And here we have Lassesen -- +that's his pet name; he was christened Lasse -- almost pure black, +as you see. I believe he was the wildest of the lot when they came +on board. I had him fastened up on the bridge with my other dogs, +beside Fix -- those two were friends from their Greenland days. But +I can tell you that when I had to pass Lasse, I always judged the +distance first. As a rule, he just stood looking down at the deck +-- exactly like a mad bull. If I tried to make overtures, he didn't +move -- stood quite still; but I could see how he drew back his upper +lip and showed a row of teeth, with which I had no desire to become +acquainted. A fortnight passed in this way. Then at last the upper +lip sank and the head was raised a little, as though he wanted to see +who it was that brought him food and water every day. But the way from +that to friendship was long and tortuous. In the time that followed, +I used to scratch him on the back with a stick; at first he jumped +round, seized the stick, and crushed it between his teeth. I thought +myself lucky that it was not my hand. I came a little nearer to him +every day, until one day I risked my hand. He gave me an ugly look, +but did nothing; and then came the beginning of our friendship. Day +by day we became better friends, and now you can see what footing we +are on. The third is Snuppesen, a dark red lady; she is their sworn +friend, and never leaves them. She is the quickest and most active +of our dogs. You can see that she is fond of me; she is generally on +her hind legs, and makes every effort to get at my face. I have tried +to get her out of the way of that, but in vain; she will have her own +way. I have no other animals for the moment that are worth showing -- +unless you would care to hear a song. If so, there is Uranus, who is a +professional singer. We'll take the trio with us, and you shall hear."</p> + +<p>We made for two black-and-white dogs that were lying by themselves +on the snow a little way off, while the three jumped and danced about +us. As we approached the other two, and they caught sight of the trio, +they both jumped up as though at a word of command, and I guessed that +we had found the singer. Lord save us, what an awful voice! I could +see that the concert was for Lasse's benefit, and Uranus kept it up as +long as we stood in his vicinity. But then my attention was suddenly +aroused by the appearance of another trio, which made an extraordinary +favourable impression. I turned to my companion for information.</p> + +<p>"Yes," he continued, "those are three of Hanssen's team; probably some +of our best animals. The big black-and-white one is called Zanko -- he +appears to be rather old; the two others, which look like sausages with +matches underneath, are Ring and Mylius. As you see, they are not very +big, rather on the small side, but they are undoubtedly among our best +workers. From their looks we have concluded that they are brothers -- +they are as like as two drops of water. Now we will go straight through +the mass and see whether we come across any more celebrities. There we +have Karenius, Sauen, Schwartz, and Lucy; they belong to Stubberud, and +are a power in the camp. Bjaaland's tent is close by; his favourites +are lying there -- Kvaen, Lap, Pan, Gorki, and Jaala. They are small, +all of them, but fine dogs. There, in the south-east corner, stands +Hassel's tent, but we shall not see any of his dogs here now. They +are all lying outside the entrance to the oil-store, where he is +generally to be found. The next tent is Wisting's. We must take a +turn round there and see if we can find his lot. There they are -- +those four playing there. The big, reddish-brown one on the right is +the Colonel, our handsomest animal. His three companions are Suggen, +Arne, and Brun. I must tell you a little story about the Colonel when +he was on Flekkerö. He was perfectly wild then, and he broke loose +and jumped into the sea. He wasn't discovered till he was half-way +between Flekkerö and the mainland, where he was probably going in +search of a joint of mutton. Wisting and Lindström, who were then +in charge of the dogs, put off in a boat, and finally succeeded in +overtaking him, but they had a hard tussle before they managed to get +him on board. Afterwards Wisting had a swimming-race with the Colonel, +but I don't remember what was the result. We can expect a great deal +of these dogs. There's Johansen's tent over in the corner; there is +not much to be said about his dogs. The most remarkable of them is +Camilla. She is an excellent mother, and brings up her children very +well; she usually has a whole army of them, too.</p> + +<p>"Now I expect you have seen dogs enough, so, if you have no objection, +I will show you underground Framheim and what goes on there. I +may just as well add that we are proud of this work, and you will +probably find that we have a right to be. We'll begin with Hassel, +as his department is nearest."</p> + +<p>We now went in the direction of the house, passed its western end, +and soon arrived at an erection that looked like a derrick. Underneath +it was a large trap-door. Where the three legs of the derrick met, +there was made fast a small block, and through the block ran a rope, +made fast at one end to the trap-door. A weight hung at the other end, +some feet above the surface of the snow.</p> + +<p>"Now we are at Hassel's," said my companion. It was a good thing he +could not see me, for I must have looked rather foolish. At Hassel's? I +said to myself. What in the world does the man mean? We were standing +on the bare Barrier.</p> + +<p>"Do you hear that noise? That's Hassel sawing wood."</p> + +<p>Now he bent down and raised the heavy trap-door easily with the help +of the weight. Broad steps of snow led down, deep down, into the +Barrier. We left the trap-door open, so as to have the benefit of +the little daylight there was. My host went first; I followed. After +descending four or five steps, we came to a doorway which was covered +with a woollen curtain. We pushed this aside. The sound that had +first reached me as a low rumbling now became sharper, and I could +plainly hear that it was caused by sawing. We went in. The room we +entered was long and narrow, cut out of the Barrier. On a solid shelf +of snow there lay barrel after barrel arranged in exemplary order; +if they were all full of paraffin, I began to understand Lindström's +extravagance in lighting his fire in the morning: here was paraffin +enough for several years. In the middle of the room a lantern was +hanging, an ordinary one with wire netting round the glass. In a +dark room it certainly would not have given much light, but in these +white surroundings it shone like the sun. A Primus lamp was burning on +the floor. The thermometer, which hung a little way from the Primus, +showed -5º F., so Hassel could hardly complain of the heat, but he +had to saw, so it did not matter. We approached Hassel. He looked +as if he had plenty to do, and was sawing away so that the sawdust +was flying. "'Morning." -- "'Morning." The sawdust flew faster and +faster. "You seem to be busy to-day." -- "Oh yes!" -- the saw was now +working with dangerous rapidity -- "if I'm to get finished for the +holiday, I must hurry up." -- How's the coal-supply getting on?" That +took effect. The saw stopped instantly, was raised, and put down by the +wall. I waited for the next step in suppressed excitement; something +hitherto undreamt of must be going to happen. Hassel looked round -- +one can never be careful enough -- approached my host, and whispered, +with every sign of caution "I did him out of twenty-five kilos last +week." I breathed again; I had expected something much worse than +that. With a smile of satisfaction Hassel resumed his interrupted work, +and I believe nothing in the world would have stopped him again. The +last I saw as we returned through the doorway was Hassel surrounded +by a halo of sawdust.</p> + +<p>We were back on the Barrier surface; a touch of the finger, and +the trap-door swung over and fell noiselessly into its place. I +could see that Hassel was capable of other things besides sawing +birchwood. Outside lay his team, guarding all his movements -- Mikkel, +Ræven, Masmas, and Else. They all looked well. Now we were going to +see the others.</p> + +<p>We went over to the entrance of the hut and raised the trap-door; +a dazzling light met my eyes. In the wall of the steps leading down +from the surface a recess had been cut to hold a wooden case lined with +bright tin; this contained a little lamp which produced this powerful +light. But it was the surroundings that made it so bright -- ice and +snow everywhere. Now I could look about me for the first time; it had +been dark when I came in the morning. There was the snow-tunnel leading +to the pent-house; I could see that by the threshold that grinned +at me. But there, in the opposite direction, what was there? I could +see that the passage was continued, but where did it lead? Standing +in the bright light, it looked quite dark in the tunnel.</p> + +<p>"Now we will go and see Bjaaland first." With these words my companion +bent down, and set off through the dark passage. "Look there, in the +snow-wall -- just under our feet -- can you see the light?" By degrees +my eyes had accustomed themselves to the darkness of the tunnel, and +I could see a greenish light shining through the snow-wall where he +pointed. And now another noise fell on my ears -- a monotonous sound -- +coming from below.</p> + +<p>"Look out for the steps!" Yes, he could be sure of that; I had come +one cropper that day, and it was enough. We once more descended into +the Barrier by broad, solid snow-steps covered with boards. Suddenly +a door was opened -- a sliding-door in the snow-wall -- and I stood +in Bjaaland's and Stubberud's premises. The place might be about 6 +feet high, 15 feet long, and 7 feet wide. On the floor lay masses of +shavings, which made it warm and cosy. At one end stood a Primus lamp +with a large tin case over it, from which steam was issuing. "How +is it going?" -- "All right. We're just bending the runners. I've +made a rough estimate of the weight, and find I can bring it down +to 48 pounds." This seemed to me almost incredible. Amundsen had +told me on the way up this morning of the heavy sledges they had +-- 165 pounds each. And now Bjaaland was going to bring them down +to 48 pounds, less than a third of their original weight. In the +snow-walls of the room were fixed hooks and shelves, where the tools +were kept. Bjaaland's carpenter's bench was massive enough -- cut +out in the snow and covered with boards. Along the opposite wall was +another planing-bench, equally massive, but somewhat shorter than the +first. This was evidently Stubberud's place. He was not here to-day, +but I could see that he was engaged in planing down the sledge cases +and making them lighter. One of them was finished; I leaned forward +and looked at it. On the top, where a little round aluminium lid +was let in, was written: "Original weight, 9 kilos; reduced weight, +6 kilos." I could understand what this saving of weight meant to men +who were going on such a journey as these had before them. One lamp +provided all the illumination, but it gave an excellent light. We +left Bjaaland. I felt sure that the sledging outfit was in the best +of hands.</p> + +<p>We then made our way into the pent-house, and here we met Stubberud. He +was engaged in cleaning up and putting things straight for the +holiday. All the steam that came out of the kitchen, when the door +was opened, had condensed on the roof and walls in the form of rime +several inches thick, and Stubberud was now clearing this off with a +long broom. Everything was going to be shipshape for Midwinter Eve; +I could see that. We went in. Dinner was on, humming and boiling. The +kitchen floor was scrubbed clean, and the linoleum with which it was +covered shone gaily. It was the same in the living-room; everything +was cleaned. The linoleum on the floor and the American cloth on the +table were equally bright. The air was pure -- absolutely pure. All +the bunks were made tidy, and the stools put in their places. There +was no one here.</p> + +<p>"You have only seen a fraction of our underground palaces, but I +thought we would take a turn in the loft first and see what it is +like. Follow me." We went out into the kitchen, and then up some steps +fastened in the wall, and through the trap-door to the loft. With the +help of a little electric lamp, we were able to look about us. The +first thing that met my eyes was the library. There stood the Framheim +library, and it made the same good impression as everything else -- +books numbered from 1 to 80 in three shelves. The catalogue lay by the +side of them, and I cast my eye over it. Here were books to suit all +tastes; "Librarian, Adolf Henrik Lindström," I read at the end. So +he was librarian, too-truly a many-sided man. Long rows of cases +stood here, full of whortleberry jam, cranberries, syrup, cream, +sugar, and pickles. In one corner I saw every sign of a dark-room; +a curtain was hung up to keep the light off, and there was an array +of developing-dishes, measuring-glasses, etc. This loft was made good +use of. We had now seen everything, and descended again to continue +our inspection.</p> + +<p>Just as we reached the pent-house, Lindström came in with a big bucket +of ice; I understood that it was to be used in the manufacture of +water. My companion had armed himself with a large and powerful +lantern, and I saw that we were going to begin our underground +travels. In the north wall of the pent-house there was a door, and +through this we went, entering a passage built against the house, and +dark as the grave. The lantern had lost its power of illumination; +it burned with a dull, dead light, which did not seem to penetrate +beyond the glass. I stretched my hands in front of me. My host stopped +and gave me a lecture on the wonderful order and tidiness they had +succeeded in establishing among them. I was a willing listener, for +I had already seen enough to be able to certify the truth of what he +told me without hesitation. But in the place we were now in, I had +to take his word for it, for it was all as black as bilge-water. We +had just started to move on again, and I felt so secure, after +all he had told me about the orderly way things were kept, that I +let go my guide's anorak, which I had been holding. But that was +foolish of me. Smack! I went down at full length. I had trodden +on something round -- something that brought me down. As I fell, +I caught hold of something -- also round -- and I lay convulsively +clutching it. I wanted to convince myself of what it was that lay +about on the floor of such a tidy house. The glimmer of the lantern, +though not particularly strong, was enough to show me what I held +in my arms -- a Dutch cheese! I put it back in the same place -- +for the sake of tidiness -- sat up, and looked down at my feet. What +was it I had stumbled over? A Dutch cheese -- if it wasn't another +of the same family! I began to form my own opinion of the tidiness +now, but said nothing. But I should like to know why he didn't fall +over the cheeses, as he was walking in front. Oh, I answered myself, +I guess he knew what sort of order the place was in.</p> + +<p>At the eastern end of the house the passage was brilliantly lighted +up by the window that looked out on this side; I could now see +more clearly where I was. Opposite the window, in the part of the +Barrier that here formed the other wall of the passage, a great hole +had been dug; nothing was to be seen in it but black darkness. My +companion knew his way, so I could rely upon him, but I should have +hesitated to go in there alone. The hole extended into the Barrier, +and finally formed a fairly large room with a vaulted roof. A spade +and an axe on the floor were all I saw. What in the world was this +hall used for? "You see, all the ice and snow from here has gone to +our water-supply." So this was Lindström's quarry, from which he +had hewn out ice and snow all these months for cooking, drinking, +and washing. In one of the walls, close to the floor, there was a +little hole just big enough for a man to crawl through.</p> + +<p>"Now you must make yourself small and follow me; we are going to visit +Hanssen and Wisting." And my companion disappeared like a snake into +the hole. I threw myself down, quick as lightning, and followed. I +would not have cared to be left alone there in pitch-darkness. I +managed to get hold of one of his calves, and did not let go until +I saw light on the other side. The passage we crept through was +equally narrow all the way, and forced one to crawl on hands and +knees; fortunately, it was not long. It ended in a fairly large, +square room. A low table stood in the middle of the floor, and on +it Helmer Hanssen was engaged in lashing sledges. The room gave +one the impression of being badly lighted, though it had a lamp and +candles. On a closer examination, I found that this was due to the +number of dark objects the place contained. Against one of the walls +there was clothing -- immense piles of skin -- clothing. Over this +were spread blankets to protect it from the rime that was formed on +the roof and fell down. Against the opposite wall was a stack of +sledges, and at the end, opposite the door, were piles of woollen +underclothing. Any outfitter in Christiania might have envied this +stock; here one saw Iceland jackets, sweaters, underclothes of immense +thickness and dimensions, stockings, mits, etc. In the corner formed +by this wall and the one where the sledges stood was the little hole +by which we had entered. Beyond the sledges, in the same wall, there +was a door with a curtain in front of it, and from within it came a +strange humming. I was much interested to know what this might be, +but had to hear first what these two had to say.</p> + +<p>"What do you think of the lashings now, Hanssen?"</p> + +<p>"Oh, they'll hold right enough; at any rate, they'll be better than +they were before. Look here, how they've pointed the ends!"</p> + +<p>I leaned forward to see what was wrong with the sledge-lashings, and, +I must say, what I saw surprised me. Is such a thing possible? The +pointing of a lashing is a thing a sailor is very careful about. He +knows that if the end is badly pointed, it does not matter how well the +lashing is put on; therefore it is an invariable rule that lashings +must be pointed as carefully as possible. When I looked at this one, +what do you think I saw? Why, the end of the lashing was nailed down +with a little tack, such as one would use to fasten labels. "That +would be a nice thing to take to the Pole!" This final observation +of Hanssen's was doubtless the mildest expression of what he thought +of the work. I saw how the new lashings were being put on, and I was +quite ready to agree with Hanssen that they would do the work. It was, +by the way, no easy job, this lashing at -15ºF., as the thermometer +showed, but Hanssen did not seem to mind it.</p> + +<p>I had heard that Wisting also took part in this work, but he was +not to be seen. Where could he be? My eyes involuntarily sought the +curtain, behind which the humming sound was audible. I was now ready +to burst with curiosity. At last the lashing question appears to be +thrashed out, and my companion shows signs of moving on. He leaves +his lantern and goes up to the curtain. "Wisting!" -- "Yes!" The +answer seems to come from a far distance. The humming ceases, and the +curtain is thrust aside. Then I am confronted by the sight that has +impressed me most of all on this eventful day. There sits Wisting, in +the middle of the Barrier, working a sewing-machine. The temperature +outside is now -60ºF. This seems to me to require some explanation; +I slink through the opening to get a closer view. Then -- ugh! I am +met by a regular tropical blast. I glance at the thermometer; it shows ++50º F. But how can this be? Here he is, sewing in an ice-cellar at ++50º. I was told in my school-days that ice melts at about +32º. If +the same law is still in operation, he ought to be sitting in a +shower-bath. I go right in; the sewing-room is not large, about 6 feet +each way. Besides the sewing-machine -- a modern treadle-machine -- +the room contains a number of instruments, compasses, and so forth, +besides the large tent he is now working on. But what interests me +most is the way in which he circumvents the shower-bath. I see it now; +it is very cleverly contrived. He has covered the roof and walls with +tin and canvas, so arranged that all the melting ice goes the same +way, and runs into a wash-tub that stands below. In this manner he +collects washing water, which is such a precious commodity in these +regions -- wily man! I afterwards hear that nearly all the outfit +for the Polar journey is being made in this little ice-cabin. Well, +with men like these I don't think Amundsen will deserve any credit +for reaching the Pole. He ought to be thrashed if he doesn't.</p> + +<p>Now we have finished here, and must in all probability have seen +everything. My guide goes over to the wall where the clothing is lying +and begins to rummage in it. A clothing inspection, I say to myself; +there's no great fun in that. I sit down on the pile of sledges by +the opposite wall, and am going over in my mind all I have seen, +when suddenly he thrusts his head forward -- like a man who is going +to make a dive -- and disappears among the bundles of skins. I jump +up and make for the piles of clothing; I am beginning to feel quite +lost in this mysterious world. In my hurry I collide with Hanssen's +sledge, which falls off the table; he looks round furiously. It is a +good thing he could not see me; he looked like murder. I squeeze in +between the bundles of clothing, and what do I see? Another hole in +the wall; another low, dark passage. I pluck up courage and plunge +in. This tunnel is rather higher than the other, and I can walk, +bending double. Fortunately, the light at the other end shows up at +once, so that my journey in the dark is not a long one this time. I +come out into another large room of about the same size as the last, +and afterwards learn that it is known as the Crystal Palace. The name +is appropriate, as crystals sparkle on every side. Against one wall +a number of pairs of ski are resting; elsewhere there are cases, +some yellow and some black. I guess the meaning of this at once, +after my visit to Stubberud. The yellow cases are the original ones, +and the black the improved ones. They think of everything here. Of +course, in snow black is a far better colour than light yellow; the +cases will be pleasanter to look at, and very much easier to see at +a distance. And if they happen to run short of marks, all they need +do will be to break up a case and make as many black marks as they +want; they will be easily seen in the snow. The lids of these cases +surprise me. They are no bigger than ordinary large milk-can lids, +and of the same form; they are loose, as with a milk-can, and are +put on in the same way. Then it suddenly occurs to me. When I was +sitting on the sledges in Hanssen's workshop, I noticed little pieces +of wire rope fixed to both ribs of the sledge. There were eight of +them on each side -- just the right number. They are lashings for +four cases, and they will hardly take more than that on a sledge. On +one rib all the wire ropes ended in eyes; on the other they ended in +thin lashings. Obviously there were four of them to each case -- two +forward and two aft of the lid. If these were reeved and drawn taut, +the cases would be held as in a vice, and the lids could be taken +off freely at any time. It was an ingenious idea, which would save +a lot of work.</p> + +<p>But there sits Johansen in the middle of the Palace, packing. He +seems to have a difficult problem to solve; he looks so profoundly +thoughtful. Before him is a case half packed, marked "Sledge No. V., +Case No. 4." More singular contents I have never seen -- a mixture +of pemmican and sausage. I have never heard of sausages on a sledge +journey; it must be something quite new. The pieces of pemmican +are cylindrical in shape, about 2 inches high and 4 and 3/4 inches +in diameter; when they are packed, there will be large star-shaped +openings between every four of them. Each of these openings is filled +up with a sausage, which stands straight up and down, and is of +exactly the height of the case. But sausage -- let me see. Ah! there's +a sausage with a tear in its skin; I run across and look at it. Oh, +the cunning rascals! if it isn't milk-powder they are smuggling in +like this! So every bit of space is utilized. The gaps left by these +round pieces of pemmican at the sides of the cases are, of course, +only half as large as the rest, and so cannot take a milk-sausage; but +don't imagine that the space is wasted. No; chocolate is broken up into +small pieces and stowed in there. When all these cases are packed, +they will be as full as if they were of solid wood. There is one +ready packed; I must see what it contains. Biscuits -- 5,400 biscuits +is marked on the lid. They say that angels are specially gifted with +patience, but theirs must be a trifle compared with Johansen's. There +was absolutely not a fraction of an inch left in that case.</p> + +<p>The Crystal Palace at present reminds one strongly of a grocer's and +chandler's store -- pemmican, biscuits, chocolate, and milk-sausage, +lie about everywhere. In the other wall, opposite the ski, there is +an opening. I see my companion making for it, but this time I intend +to keep an eye on him. He goes up two steps, pushes a trap-door, +and there he stands on the Barrier -- but I am there, too. The +trap-door is replaced, and I see that we are close to another door +in the Barrier, but this is a modern sliding-door. It leads into +the clothing store. I turn to my host and give him my best thanks +for the interesting circular trip through the Barrier, expressing +my admiration of all the fine engineering works I have seen, and +so on. He cuts me short with the remark that we are not nearly done +yet. He has only brought me up this way to save my having to crawl +back again. "We are going in now," he adds, "to continue our journey +under the surface." I see that there is no getting out of it, although +I am beginning to have enough of these underground passages. My host +seems to guess my thoughts, as he adds: "We must see them now when the +men are working. Afterwards they will not have the same interest." I +see that he is right, pull myself together, and follow him.</p> + +<p>But Fate wills it otherwise. As we come out on the Barrier, Hanssen +is standing there with his sledge and six fresh dogs harnessed. My +companion has just time to whisper to me, " Jump on; I'll wait here," +when the sledge starts off at a terrific pace with me as a passenger, +unsuspected by Hanssen.</p> + +<p>We went along so that the snow dashed over us. He had his dogs well +in hand, this fellow, I could see that; but they were a wild lot of +rascals he had to deal with. I heard the names of Hok and Togo in +particular; they seemed inclined for mischief. All of a sudden they +darted back on their companions under the traces, and got the whole +team in a tangle; but they were not able to do very much, as the +whip, which was wielded with great dexterity, constantly sang about +their ears. The two sausages I had noticed on the slope -- Ring and +Mylius -- were leaders; they, too, were full of pranks, but kept their +places. Hai and Rap were also in the team. Rap, whose ear was split, +would have liked very much to get his friend Hai to join in a little +fight with Hok and Togo, but for the whip. It swished to and fro, +in and out, among them without mercy, and made them behave like good +boys. After us, some yards behind, came Zanko. He seemed to be put +out because he had not been harnessed. Meanwhile we went at a gallop +up the hill to the depot, and the last flag was passed. There was a +marked difference in the daylight here now. It was eleven o'clock, and +the flush of dawn had risen a good way in the sky and was approaching +the north. The numbers and marks on the cases were easily visible.</p> + +<p>Hanssen drew up smartly by the rows of cases and halted. We stepped +off the sledge. He stood still for a moment and looked round, then +turned the sledge over, with the runners in the air. I supposed he +did this to prevent the dogs making off when his back was turned; +personally, I thought it was a poor safeguard. I jumped up on a case, +and sat there to await what developments might come. And they came in +the form of Zanko. Hanssen had moved off a little way with a piece +of paper in his hand, and seemed to be examining the cases as he +went along. Zanko had now reached his friends, Ring and Mylius, +and the meeting was a very cordial one on both sides. This was +too much for Hok; he was on to them like a rocket, followed by his +friend Togo. Hai and Rap never let such an opportunity escape them, +and they eagerly flung themselves into the thick of the fight. "Stop +that, you blackguards!" It was Hanssen who threw this admonition in +advance, as he came rushing back. Zanko, who was free, had kept his +head sufficiently to observe the approaching danger; without much +hesitation, he cut away and made for Framheim with all possible +speed. Whether the others missed their sixth combatant, or whether +they, too, became aware of Hanssen's threatening approach, I am unable +to determine; certain it is that they all got clear of each other, +as though at a given signal, and made off the same way. The capsized +sledge made no difference to them; they went like the wind over the +slope, and disappeared by the flagstaff. Hanssen did not take long to +make up his mind, but what was the use? He went as fast as he could, +no doubt, but had reached no farther than to the flagstaff, when the +dogs, with the capsized sledge behind them, ran into Framheim and +were stopped there.</p> + +<p>I went quietly back, well pleased with the additional experience. Down +on the level I met Hanssen on his way to the depot a second time; +he looked extremely angry, and the way in which he used the whip +did not promise well for the dogs' backs. Zanko was now harnessed in +the team. On my return to Framheim I saw no one, so I slipped into +the pent-house, and waited for an opportunity of getting into the +kitchen. This was not long in coming. Puffing and gasping like a small +locomotive, Lindström swung in from the passage that led round the +house. In his arms he again carried the big bucket full of ice, and an +electric lamp hung from his mouth. In order to open the kitchen-door, +he had only to give it a push with his knee; I slipped in. The house +was empty. Now, I thought, I shall have a good chance of seeing what +Lindström does when he is left alone. He put down the bucket of ice, +and gradually filled up the water-pot which was on the fire. Then he +looked at the clock: a quarter-past eleven -- good; dinner will be +ready in time. He drew a long, deep sigh, then went into the room, +filled and lit his pipe. Thereupon he sat down and took up a doll +that was sitting on a letter-weight. His whole face lighted up; one +could see how pleased he was. He wound up the doll and put it on +the table; as soon as he let it go, it began to turn somersaults, +one after another, endlessly. And Lindström? Well, he laughed till +he must have been near convulsions, crying out all the while: "That's +right, Olava; go it again!" I then looked at the doll carefully, and +it was certainly something out of the common. The head was that of an +old woman -- evidently a disagreeable old maid -- with yellow hair, +a hanging under-jaw, and a love-sick expression. She wore a dress of +red-and-white check, and when she turned head over heels it caused, +as might be expected, some disturbance of her costume. The figure, +one could see, had originally been an acrobat, but these ingenious +Polar explorers had transformed it into this hideous shape. When the +experiment was repeated, and I understood the situation, I could not +help roaring, too, but Lindström was so deeply occupied that he did +not hear me. After amusing himself for about ten minutes with this, +he got tired of Olava, and put her up on the weight again. She sat +there nodding and bowing until she was forgotten.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile Lindström had gone to his bunk, and was lying half in +it. Now, I thought to myself, he is going to take a little nap before +dinner. But no; he came out again at once, holding a tattered old +pack of cards in his hand. He went back to his place, and began a +quiet and serious game of patience. It did not take long, and was +probably not very complicated, but it served its purpose. One could +see what a pleasure it was to him whenever a card came in its right +place. Finally, all the cards were in order; he had finished the +game. He sat a little while longer, enjoying the sight of the finished +packs; then he picked them all up with a sigh, and rose, mumbling: +"Yes, he'll get to the Pole, that's sure; and, what's more, he'll +get there first." He put the cards back on the shelf in his bunk, +and looked well pleased with himself.</p> + +<p>Then the process of laying the table began once more, but with far +less noise than in the morning; there was nobody to be annoyed by it +now. At five minutes to twelve a big ship's bell was rung, and not +long after the diners began to arrive. They did not make any elaborate +toilet, but sat down to table at once. The dishes were not many: +a thick, black seal soup, with all manner of curious things in it -- +seal meat cut into " small dice" is no doubt the expression, but it +would be misleading here; "large dice" we had better call them -- +with potatoes, carrots, cabbage, turnips, peas, celery, prunes, and +apples. I should like to know what our cooks at home would call that +dish. Two large jugs of syrup and water stood on the table. Now I had +another surprise; I was under the impression that a dinner like this +passed off in silence, but that was by no means the case here. They +talked the whole time, and the conversation chiefly turned on what +they had been doing during the forenoon. For dessert they had some +green plums. Pipes and books soon made their appearance.</p> + +<p>By about two o'clock the boys gave fresh signs of life. I knew they +were not going to work that afternoon -- St. Hans' Eve -- but habit +is a strange thing. Bjaaland rose in a peremptory fashion, and asked +who was going to have the first turn. After a lot of questions and +answers, it was decided that Hassel should be the first. What it was +I could not make out. I heard them talk about one or two Primuses, +and say that half an hour was the most one could stand, but that did +not mean anything to me. I should have to stick to Hassel; he was +going first. If there should be no second man, I should, at any rate, +have seen what the first one did. Everything became quiet again; it was +only in the kitchen that one could tell that the Barrier was inhabited.</p> + +<p>At half-past two Bjaaland, who had been out, came in and announced +that now it was all a mass of steam. I watched Hassel anxiously. Yes; +this announcement seemed to put life into him. He got up and began +to undress. Very strange, I thought; what can this be? I tried the +Sherlock Holmes method -- first Bjaaland goes out; that is fact number +one. Then he comes back; that I could also make sure of. So far the +method worked well. But then comes the third item "It is all a mass of +steam." What in the world does that mean? The man has gone out -- if +not out on to the Barrier, then certainly into it -- into snow-ice, and +then he comes back and says that it is all a mass of steam. It seems +ridiculous -- absurd. I send Sherlock Holmes to the deuce, and watch +Hassel with increasing excitement; if he takes any more off -- I felt +I was blushing, and half turned my head, but there he stopped. Then +he picked up a towel, and away we went: out through the pent-house +door -- it was all I could do to follow him -- along the snow tunnel +in nothing but -- Here steam really began to meet us, getting thicker +and thicker as we came into the Barrier. The tunnel became so full of +steam that I could see nothing. I thought with longing of the tail +of Amundsen's anorak that was so useful on such occasions, but here +there was nothing to take hold of. Far away in the fog I could see a +light, and made my way to it with caution. Before I knew where I was, +I stood at the other end of the passage, which led into a large room, +covered with rime, and closed overhead by a mighty dome of ice. The +steam was troublesome, and spoilt my view of the room. But what had +become of Hassel? I could only see Bjaaland. Then suddenly the fog +seemed to clear for an instant, and I caught sight of a bare leg +disappearing into a big black box, and a moment later I saw Hassel's +smiling face on the top of the box. A shudder passed through my frame +-- he looked as if he had been decapitated. On further consideration, +his features were too smiling; the head could not be severed from the +body yet. Now the steam began to clear away little by little, and at +last one could see clearly what was going on. I had to laugh; it was +all very easy to understand now. But I think Sherlock Holmes would +have found it a hard-nut to crack if he had been set down blindfold +on the Antarctic Barrier, as I was, so to speak, and asked to explain +the situation. It was one of those folding American vapour-baths that +Hassel sat in. The bathroom, which had looked so spacious and elegant +in the fog, reduced itself to a little snow-hut of insignificant +appearance. The steam was now collected in the bath, and one could +see by the face above that it was beginning to be warm there. The last +thing I saw Bjaaland do was to pump two Primus lamps that were placed +just under the bath up to high pressure, and then disappear. What +a lesson an actor might have had in watching the face before me! It +began with such a pleasant expression -- well-being was written upon +it in the brightest characters -- then by degrees the smile wore off, +and gave place to seriousness. But this did not last long; there was +a trembling of the nostrils, and very soon it could clearly be seen +that the bath was no longer of a pleasant nature. The complexion, +from being normal, had changed to an ultra-violet tint; the eyes +opened wider and wider, and I was anxiously awaiting a catastrophe.</p> + +<p>It came, but in a very different form from that I had +expected. Suddenly and noiselessly the bath was raised, and the steam +poured out, laying a soft white curtain over what followed. I could +see nothing; only heard that the two Primuses were turned down. I +think it took about five minutes for the steam to disappear, and +what did I see then? -- Hassel, bright as a new shilling, dressed in +his best for St. Hans' Eve. I availed myself of the opportunity to +examine the first, and probably the only, vapour-bath on the Antarctic +Barrier. It was, like everything else I had seen, very ingeniously +contrived. The bath was a high box without bottom, and with a hole, +large enough for the head, in the top. Ail the walls were double and +were made of windproof material, with about an inch between for the +air to circulate. This box stood on a platform, which was raised a +couple of feet above the snow surface. The box fitted into a groove, +and was thus absolutely tight. In the platform immediately under the +bath a rectangular opening was cut, lined round with rubber packing, +and into this opening a tin box fitted accurately. Under the tin box +stood two Primus lamps, and now everyone will be able to understand why +Hassel felt warm. A block hung from the top of the hut, with a rope +reeved in it; one end was made fast to the upper edge of the bath, +and the other went down into the bath. In this way the bather himself +could raise the bath without assistance, and free himself when the +heat became too great. The temperature outside the snow-wall was -65º +F. Cunning lads! I afterwards heard that Bjaaland and Hassel had +constructed this ingenious bath.</p> + +<p>I now went back to the house, and saw how they all -- almost -- made +use of the vapour-bath. By a quarter-past five all the bathing was +concluded, and everyone put on his furs; it was evident that they +were going out. I followed the first man who left the hut; he was +provided with a lantern, and indeed it was wanted. The weather had +changed: a south-west wind had sprung up suddenly, and now the air +was thick with snow. It was not a fall of snow, for one could see +the stars in the zenith, but snow caught up by the wind and whirled +along. A man had to know the surroundings well to find his way now; +one had to feel -- it was impossible to keep one's eyes open. I took +up a position in lee of a snow-drift, and waited to see what would +happen. The dogs did not seem to be inconvenienced by the change of +weather; some of them lay curled up in a ring, with their nose under +their tail, on the snow, while others were running about. One by one +the men came out; each had a lantern in his hand. As they arrived at +the place where the dogs were, each was surrounded by his team, who +followed him to the tents with joyous howls. But everything did not +pass off peacefully; I heard -- I think it was in Bjaaland's tent -- +a deafening noise going on, and looked in at the door. Down there, +deep below the surface, they were having a warm time. All the dogs +were mixed up together in one mass: some were biting, some shrieking, +some howling. In the midst of this mass of raging dogs I saw a human +figure swinging round, with a bunch of dog-collars in one hand, while +he dealt blows right and left with the other, and blessed the dogs all +the time. I thought of my calves and withdrew. But the human figure +that I had seen evidently won the mastery, as the noise gradually +subsided and all became quiet. As each man got his dogs tied up, he +went over to the meat-tent and took a box of cut-up seal meat, which +stood on the wall out of the dogs' reach. This meat had been cut up +earlier in the day by two men. They took it in turns, I heard; two men +had this duty daily. The dogs were then fed, and half an hour after +this was done the camp again lay as I had found it in the morning, +quiet and peaceful. With a temperature of -65º F., and a velocity of +twenty-two miles an hour, the south-wester swept over the Barrier, and +whirled the snow high into the air above Framheim; but in their tents +the dogs lay, full-fed and contented, and felt nothing of the storm.</p> + +<p>In the hut preparations for a feast were going on, and now one could +really appreciate a good house. The change from the howling wind, +the driving snow, the intense cold, and the absolute darkness, +was great indeed when one came in. Everything was newly washed, +and the table was gaily decorated. Small Norwegian flags were +everywhere, on the table and walls. The festival began at six, and +all the "vikings" came merrily in. Lindström had done his best, and +that is not saying a little. I specially admired his powers and his +liberality -- and I think, even in the short time I have observed him, +he has shown no sign of being stingy -- when he appeared with the +"Napoleon" cakes. Now I must tell you that these cakes were served +after every man had put away a quarter of a plum-pudding. The cakes +were delightful to look at -- the finest puff-pastry, with layers of +vanilla custard and cream. They made my mouth water. But the size of +them! -- there could not be one of those mountains of cake to every +man? One among them all, perhaps -- if they could be expected to eat +Napoleon cakes at all after plum-pudding. But why had he brought in +eight -- two enormous dishes with four on each? Good heavens! -- +one of the vikings had just started, and was making short work of +his mountain. And one after another they all walked into them, until +the whole eight had disappeared. I should have nothing to say about +hunger, misery, and cold, when I came hone. My head was going round; +the temperature must have been as many degrees above zero in here +as it was below zero outside. I looked up at Wisting's bunk, where +a thermometer was hanging: +95º F. The vikings did not seem to take +the slightest notice of this trifle; their work with the "Napoleons" +continued undisturbed.</p> + +<p>Soon the gorgeous cake was a thing of the past, and cigars came +out. Everyone, without exception, allowed himself this luxury. Up +to now they had not shown much sign of abstinence; I wanted to know +what was their attitude with regard to strong drinks. I had heard, +of course, that indulgence in alcohol on Polar expeditions was very +harmful, not to say dangerous. "Poor boys!" I thought to myself; "that +must be the reason of your fondness for cake. A man must have one vice, +at least. Deprived of the pleasure of drinking, they make up for it in +gluttony." Yes, now I could see it quite plainly, and I was heartily +sorry for them. I wondered how the "Napoleons" felt now; they looked +rather depressed. No doubt the cake took some time to settle down.</p> + +<p>Lindström, who now seemed unquestionably the most wideawake of them +all, came in and began to clear the table. I expected to see every +man roll into his bunk to digest. But no; that side of the question +did not appear to trouble them much. They remained seated, as though +expecting more. Oh yes, of course; there was coffee to come. Lindström +was already in the doorway with cups and jugs. A cup of coffee would +be just the thing after such a meal.</p> + +<p>"Stubberud!" -- this was Lindström's voice, calling from some +place in the far distance -- "hurry up, before they get warm!" I +rushed after Stubberud to see what the things were that were not +to get warm; I thought it might possibly be something that was to +be taken outside. Great Heaven! there was Lindström lying on his +stomach up in the loft, and handing down through the trap-door -- +what do you think? -- a bottle of Benedictine and a bottle of punch, +both white with frost! Now I could see that the fish were to swim -- +what's more, they were to be drowned. A happier smile than that with +which Stubberud received the bottles, or more careful and affectionate +handling than they received on their way through the kitchen, I have +never seen. I was touched. Ah, these boys knew how a liqueur should +be served! "Must be served cold," was on the label of the punch +bottle. I can assure P. A. Larsen that his prescription was followed +to the letter that evening. Then the gramophone made its appearance, +and it did me good to see the delight with which it was received. They +seemed to like this best, after all, and every man had music to suit +his taste. All agreed to honour the cook for all his pains, and the +concert therefore began with "Tarara-boom-de-ay," followed by the +"Apache" waltz. His part of the programme was concluded with a humorous +recitation. Meanwhile he stood in the doorway with a beatific smile; +this did him good. In this way the music went the round, and all +had their favourite tunes. Certain numbers were kept to the last; I +could see that they were to the taste of all. First came an air from +"The Huguenots," sung by Michalowa; this showed the vikings to be +musical. It was beautifully sung. "But look here," cried an impatient +voice: "aren't we going to have Borghild Bryhn to-night?" "Yes," was +the answer; "here she comes." And Solveig's Song followed. It was +a pity Borghild Bryhn was not there; I believe the most rapturous +applause would not have moved her so much as the way her song was +received here that evening. As the notes rang clear and pure through +the room, one could see the faces grow serious. No doubt the words of +the poem affected them all as they sat there in the dark winter night +on the vast wilderness of ice, thousands and thousands of miles from +all that was dear to them. I think that was so; but it was the lovely +melody, given with perfect finish and rich natural powers, that opened +their hearts. One could see how it did them good; it was as though +they were afraid of the sound of their own voices afterwards. At last +one of them could keep silence no longer. "My word, how beautifully +she sings!" he exclaimed; "especially the ending. I was a little bit +afraid that she would give the last note too sharp, in spite of the +masterly way in which she controls her voice. And it is outrageously +high, too. But instead of that, the note came so pure and soft and full +that it alone was enough to make a better man of one." And then this +enthusiastic listener tells them how he once heard the same song, +but with a very different result. "It went quite well," he says, +"until it came to the final note. Then you could see the singer fill +her mighty bosom for the effort, and out came a note so shrill that -- +well, you remember the walls of Jericho." After this the gramophone +is put away. No one seems to want any more.</p> + +<p>Now it is already half-past eight, it must be nearly bed-time. The +feast has lasted long enough, with food, drink, and music. Then they +all get on their feet, and there is a cry of "Bow and arrows." Now, +I say to myself, as I withdraw into the corner where the clothes +are hanging -- now the alcohol is beginning to take effect. It is +evident that something extraordinarily interesting is going to take +place, as they are all so active. One of them goes behind the door +and fetches out a little cork target, and another brings out of his +bunk a box of darts. So it is dart-throwing -- the children must be +amused. The target is hung up on the door of the kitchen leading +to the pent-house, and the man who is to throw first takes up his +position at the end of the table at a distance of three yards. And +now the shooting competition begins, amid laughter and noise. There +are marksmen of all kinds, good, bad, and indifferent. Here comes +the champion -- one can see that by the determined way in which he +raises the dart and sends it flying; his will, no doubt, be the top +score. That is Stubberud; of the five darts he throws, two are in the +bull's-eye and three close to it. The next is Johansen; he is not bad, +either, but does not equal the other's score. Then comes Bjaaland; I +wonder whether he is as smart at this game as he is on ski? He places +himself at the end of the table, like the others, but takes a giant's +stride forward. He is a leery one, this; now he is not more than a +yard and a half from the target. He throws well; the darts describe +a great round arch. This is what is known as throwing "with a high +trajectory," and it is received with great applause. The trajectory +turns out to be too high, and all his darts land in the wall above +the door. Hassel throws with "calculation." What he calculates it +is not easy to understand. Not on hitting the target, apparently; +but if his calculations have to do with the kitchen-door, then they +are more successful. Whether Amundsen "calculates" or not makes very +little difference; his are all misses in any case. Wisting's form is +the same. Prestrud is about half-way between the good shots and the +bad. Hanssen throws like a professional, slinging his dart with great +force. He evidently thinks he is hunting walrus. All the scores are +carefully entered in a book, and prizes will be given later on.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile Lindström is playing patience; his day's work is now +done. But, besides his cards, he is much interested in what is going +on round the target, and puts in a good word here and there. Then he +gets up with a determined look; he has one more duty to perform. This +consists of changing the light from the big lamp under the ceiling +to two small lamps, and the reason for the change is that the heat +of the big lamp would be too strongly felt in the upper bunks. This +operation is a gentle hint that the time has come for certain people to +turn in. The room looks dark now that the great sun under the ceiling +is extinguished; the two lamps that are now alight are good enough, +but one seems, nevertheless, to have made a retrograde step towards +the days of pine-wood torches.</p> + +<p>By degrees, then, the vikings began to retire to rest. My description +of the day's life at Framheim would be incomplete if I did not include +this scene in it. Lindström's chief pride, I had been told, was that +he was always the first man in bed; he would willingly sacrifice +a great deal to hold this record. As a rule, he had no difficulty +in fulfilling his desire, as nobody tried to be before him; but +this evening it was otherwise. Stubberud was far advanced with his +undressing when Lindström came in, and, seeing a chance at last of +being "first in bed," at once challenged the cook. Lindström, who did +not quite grasp the situation, accepted the challenge, and then the +race began, and was followed by the others with great excitement. Now +Stubberud is ready, and is just going to jump into his bunk, which +is over Lindström's, when he suddenly feels himself clutched by the +leg and held back. Lindström hangs on to the leg with all his force, +crying out, in the most pitiable voice: "Wait a bit, old man, till +I'm undressed too!" It reminded me rather of the man who was going to +fight, and called out: "Wait till I get a hold of you!" But the other +was not to be persuaded; he was determined to win. Then Lindström let +go, tore off his braces -- he had no time for more -- and dived head +first into his bunk. Stubberud tried to protest; this was not fair, +he was not undressed, and so on.</p> + +<p>"That doesn't matter," replied the fat man; "I was first, all the +same."</p> + +<p>The scene was followed with great amusement and shouts of +encouragement, and ended in a storm of applause when Lindström +disappeared into his bunk with his clothes on. But that was not the +end of the business, for his leap into the bunk was followed by a +fearful crash, to which no one paid any attention in the excitement +of the moment, himself least of all. But now the consequences +appeared. The shelf along the side of his bunk, on which he kept a +large assortment of things, had fallen down, and filled the bunk with +rifles, ammunition, gramophone-discs, tool-boxes, sweetmeat-boxes, +pipes, tins of tobacco, ash-trays, boxes of matches, etc., and there +was no room left for the man himself. He had to get out again, and +his defeat was doubly hard. With shame he acknowledged Stubberud as +the victor; "but," he added, "you shan't be first another time." One +by one the others turned in; books were produced -- here and there a +pipe as well -- and in this way the last hour was passed. At eleven +o'clock precisely the lamps were put out, and the day was at an end.</p> + +<p>Soon after, my host goes to the door, and I follow him out. I had +told him I had to leave again this evening, and he is going to see me +off. "I'll take you as far as the depot," he says; "the rest of the way +you can manage by yourself." The weather has improved considerably, +but it is dark -- horribly dark. "So that we may find the way more +easily," he says, "I'll take my trio. If they don't see the way, +they'll smell it out." Having let loose the three dogs, who evidently +wonder what the meaning of it may be, he puts a lantern on a stack of +timber -- to show him the way back, I suppose -- and we go off. The +dogs are evidently accustomed to go this way, for they set off at +once in the direction of the depot.</p> + +<p>"Yes," says my companion, "it's not to be wondered at that they know +the way. They have gone it every day -- once at least, often two or +three times -- since we came here. There are three of us who always +take our daily walk in this direction -- Bjaaland, Stubberud, and I. As +you saw this morning, those two went out at half-past eight. They did +that so as to be back to work at nine. We have so much to do that we +can't afford to lose any time. So they take their walk to the depot +and back; at nine I generally do the same. The others began the winter +with the same good resolution; they were all so enthusiastic for a +morning walk. But the enthusiasm didn't last long, and now we three +are the only enthusiasts left. But, short as the way is -- about +650 yards -- we should not venture to go without those marks that +you saw, and without our dogs. I have often hung out a lantern, too; +but when it is as cold as this evening, the paraffin freezes and the +light goes out. Losing one's way here might be a very serious matter, +and I don't want to run the risk of it.</p> + +<p>" Here we have the first mark-post; we were lucky to come straight upon +it. The dogs are on ahead, making for the depot. Another reason for +being very careful on the way to the depot is that there is a big hole, +20 feet deep, just by a hummock on that slope where, you remember, the +last flag stands. If one missed one's way and fell into it, one might +get hurt." We passed close to the second mark. "The next two marks are +more difficult to hit off -- they are so low; and I often wait and +call the dogs to me to find the way -- as I am going to do now, for +instance. It is impossible to see anything unless you come right on it, +so we must wait and let the dogs help us. I know exactly the number +of paces between each mark, and when I have gone that number, I stop +and first examine the ground close by. If that is no good, I whistle +for the dogs, who come at once. Now you'll see" -- a long whistle -- +"it won't be long before they are here. I can hear them already." He +was right; the dogs came running out of the darkness straight towards +us. "To let them see that we want to find the way to the depot, +we must begin to walk on." We did so. As soon as the dogs saw this, +they went forward again, but this time at a pace that allowed us to +keep up with them at a trot, and soon after we were at the last mark.</p> + +<p>"As you see, my lantern over at the camp is just going out, so I +hope you will excuse my accompanying you farther. You know your way, +anyhow."</p> + +<p>With these words we parted, and my host went back, followed by the +faithful trio, whilst I ...</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER IX: <a name="ix"></a> +The End of the Winter</h2> + +<p>After Midwinter Day the time began to pass even more quickly than +before. The darkest period was over, and the sun was daily drawing +nearer. In the middle of the darkest time, Hassel came in one morning +and announced that Else had eight puppies. Six of these were ladies, +so their fate was sealed at once; they were killed and given to their +elder relations, who appreciated them highly. It could hardly be seen +that they chewed them at all; they went down practically whole. There +could be no doubt of their approval, as the next day the other two +had also disappeared.</p> + +<p>The weather conditions we encountered down here surprised us +greatly. In every quarter of the Antarctic regions of which we had +any information, the conditions had always proved very unsettled. On +the Belgica, in the drift-ice to the west of Graham Land, we always +had rough, unpleasant weather. Nordenskjöld's stay in the regions to +the east of the same land gave the same report -- storm after storm +the whole time. And from the various English expeditions that have +visited McMurdo Sound we hear of continual violent winds. Indeed, +we know now that while we were living on the Barrier in the most +splendid weather -- calms or light breezes -- Scott at his station +some four hundred miles to the west of us was troubled by frequent +storms, which greatly hindered his work.</p> + +<p>I had expected the temperature to remain high, as throughout the winter +we could very clearly see the dark sky over the sea. Whenever the state +of the air was favourable, the dark, heavy water-sky was visible in a +marked degree, leaving no doubt that a large extent of Ross Sea was +open the whole year round. Nevertheless, the temperature went very +low, and without doubt the mean temperature shown by our observations +for the year is the lowest that has ever been recorded. Our lowest +temperature, on August 13, 1911, was -74.2ºF. For five months of the +year we were able to record temperatures below -58ºF. The temperature +rose with every wind, except the south-west; with that it more usually +went down.</p> + +<p>We observed the aurora australis many times, but only a few of its +appearances were specially powerful. They were of all possible forms, +though the form of ribbon-like bands seemed to be commonest. Most of +the auroræ were multicoloured -- red and green.</p> + +<p>My hypothesis of the solidity of the Barrier -- that is, of its resting +upon underlying land -- seems to be confirmed at all points by our +observations during our twelve months' stay on it. In the course of +the winter and spring the pack-ice is forced up against the Barrier +into pressure-ridges of as much as 40 feet in height. This took place +only about a mile and a quarter from our hut, without our noticing +its effect in the slightest degree. In my opinion, if this Barrier had +been afloat, the effect of the violent shock which took place at its +edge would not merely have been noticeable, but would have shaken our +house. While building the house, Stubberud and Bjaaland heard a loud +noise a long way off, but could feel nothing. During our whole stay +we never heard a sound or felt a movement on this spot. Another very +good proof seems to be afforded by the large theodolite that Prestrud +used. It would take next to nothing to disturb its level -- a slight +change of temperature might be enough. So delicate an instrument +would have soon shown an inclination if the Barrier had been afloat.</p> + +<p>The day we entered the bay for the first time, a small piece of its +western cape broke away. During the spring the drift-ice pressed in +an insignificant part of one of the many points on the outer edge of +the Barrier. With these exceptions, we left the Barrier as we found +it, entirely unaltered. The soundings, which showed a rapid rise +in the bottom as the Fram changed her position southward along the +Barrier, are also a clear sign that land is close at hand. Finally, +the formations of the Barrier appear to be the best proof. It could not +rise to 1,100 feet -- which we measured as the rise from Framheim to +a point about thirty-one miles to the south -- without subjacent land.</p> + +<p>Work now proceeded on the sledging outfit with feverish haste. We had +for a long time been aware that we should have to do our utmost and +make the best use of our time if we were to have the general outfit +for our common use ready by the middle of August. For preparing our +personal outfit we had to use our leisure time. By the first half +of August we could begin to see the end of our labour. Bjaaland had +now finished the four sledges. It was a masterly piece of work that +he had carried out in the course of the winter; they were extremely +lightly constructed, but very strong. They were of the same length as +the original sledges -- about 12 feet -- and were not shod. We should +have a couple of the old Fram sledges with us, and these were shod +with strong steel plates, so that they could be used if the surface +and going rendered it necessary. The average weight of the new sledges +was 53 pounds. We had thus saved as much as 110 pounds per sledge.</p> + +<p>When Bjaaland had finished them, they were taken into the "Clothing +Store." The way in which Hanssen and Wisting lashed the various parts +together was a guarantee of their soundness; in fact, the only way in +which one can expect work to be properly and carefully carried out is +to have it done by the very men who are to use the things. They know +what is at stake. They do it so that they may reach their destination; +more than that, they do it so that they may come back again. Every +piece of binding is first carefully examined and tested; then it +is put on, cautiously and accurately. Every turn is hauled taut, +taking care that it is in its right place. And, finally, the lashing +is pointed in such a way that one would do best to use a knife or an +axe if it has to be undone again; there is no danger of jerking it +out with the fingers. A sledge journey of the kind we had before us +is a serious undertaking, and the work has to be done seriously.</p> + +<p>It was no warm and comfortable workshop that they had for doing +this. The Clothing Store was always the coldest place, probably because +there was always a draught through it. There was a door out on to +the Barrier, and an open passage leading to the house. Fresh air was +constantly passing through, though not in any very great quantity; +but it does not take much to make itself felt when the air is at +a temperature of about -75ºF., and when one is working with bare +fingers. There were always some degrees of frost here. In order to +keep the lashings pliable while they were being put on, they used +a Primus lamp on a stone close to where they were working. I often +admired their patience when I stood watching them; I have seen them +more than once working barehanded by the hour together in a temperature +of about -22ºF. This may pass for a short time; but through the coldest +and darkest part of the winter, working day after day, as they did, +it is pretty severe, and a great trial of patience. Nor were their +feet very well off either; it makes hardly any difference what one +puts on them if one has to stay still. Here, as elsewhere in the cold, +it was found that boots with wooden soles were the best for sedentary +work; but for some reason or other the occupants of the Clothing +Store would not give their adherence to the wooden-sole principle, +and continued to work all through the winter in their reindeer-skin +and sealskin boots. They preferred stamping their feet to acknowledging +the incontestable superiority of wooden soles in such conditions.</p> + +<p>As the sledges were finished, they were numbered from one to seven, +and stored in the clothing department. The three old sledges we should +have to use were made for the Fram's second expedition. They were +extremely strong, and, of course, heavier than the new ones. They were +all carefully overhauled; all the bindings and lashings were examined, +and replaced wherever necessary. The steel shoes were taken off one, +but retained on the other two, in case we should meet with conditions +where they would be required.</p> + +<p>In addition to this work of lashing, these two had plenty of other +occupation. Whenever Wisting was not taken up by the work on the +sledges, one could hear the hum of his sewing-machine. He had +a thousand different things to do in his sewing-room, and was in +there nearly every day till late in the evening. It was only when the +target and darts came out at half-past eight that he showed himself, +and if it had not been that he had undertaken the position of marker +at these competitions, we should hardly have seen him even then. His +first important piece of work was making four three-man tents into +two. It was not easy to manage these rather large tents in the little +hole that went by the name of the sewing-room; of course, he used +the table in the Clothing Store for cutting out, but, all the same, +it is a mystery how he contrived to get hold of the right seams when +he sat in his hole. I was prepared to see the most curious-looking +tents when once they were brought out and set up in daylight; one +might imagine that the floor of one would be sewed on to the side of +another. But nothing of the sort happened. When the tents were brought +out for the first time and set up, they proved to be perfect. One +would have thought they had been made in a big sail-loft instead of +in a snow-drift. Neat-fingered fellows like this are priceless on +such an expedition as ours.</p> + +<p>On the second Fram expedition they used double tents, and as, of +course, nothing is so good and serviceable as the thing one has not +got, the praises of double tents were now sung in every key. Well, +I naturally had to admit that a house with double walls is warmer +than one with single walls, but, at the same time, one must not lose +sight of the fact that the double-walled house is also twice as heavy; +and when one has to consider the weight of a pocket-handkerchief, +it will be understood that the question of the real advantages of +the double-walled house had to be thoroughly considered before taking +the step of committing oneself to it. I had thought that with double +walls one would possibly avoid some of the rime that is generally so +troublesome in the tents, and often becomes a serious matter. If, +then, the double walls would in any way prevent or improve this +condition of things, I could see the advantage of having them; for +the increased weight caused by the daily deposit of rime would in a +short time be equal to, if not greater than, the additional weight +of the double tent. These double tents are made so that the outer +tent is fast and the inner loose. In the course of our discussion, +it appeared that the deposit of rime occurred just as quickly on a +double tent as on a single one, and thus the utility of the double +tent appeared to me to be rather doubtful. If the object was merely +to have it a few degrees warmer in the tent, I thought it best to +sacrifice this comfort to the weight we should thereby save. Moreover, +we were so plentifully supplied with warm sleeping things that we +should not have to suffer any hardship.</p> + +<p>But another question cropped up as a result of this discussion -- +the question of what was the most useful colour for a tent. We were +soon agreed that a dark-coloured tent was best, for several reasons: +In the first place, as a relief to the eyes. We knew well enough what a +comfort it would be to come into a dark tent after travelling all day +on the glistening Barrier surface. In the next place, the dark colour +would make the tent a good deal warmer when the sun was up -- another +important consideration. One may easily prove this by walking in dark +clothes in a hot sun, and afterwards changing to white ones. And, +finally, a dark tent would be far easier to see on the white surface +than a light one. When all these questions had been discussed, and +the superiority of a dark tent admitted, we were doubly keen on it, +since all our tents happened to be light, not to say white, and the +possibility of getting dark ones was not very apparent. It is true +that we had a few yards of darkish " gabardine," or light windproof +material, which would have been extremely suitable for this purpose, +but every yard of it had long ago been destined for some other use, +so that did not get us out of the difficulty. "But," said somebody -- +and he had a very cunning air as he uttered that "but" -- "but haven't +we got ink and ink-powder that we can dye our tents dark with?" Yes, +of course! We all smiled indulgently; the thing was so plain that +it was almost silly to mention it, but all the same -- the man was +forgiven his silliness, and dye-works were established. Wisting +accepted the position of dyer, in addition to his other duties, and +succeeded so well that before very long we had two dark blue tents +instead of the white ones.</p> + +<p>These looked very well, no doubt, freshly dyed as they were, +but the question was, What would they look like after a couple of +months' use? The general opinion was that they would probably, to a +great extent, have reverted to their original colour -- or lack of +colour. Some better patent had to be invented. As we were sitting +over our coffee after dinner one day, someone suddenly suggested: +"But look here -- suppose we took our bunk -- curtains and made an +outer tent of them?" This time the smile that passed over the company, +as they put down their cups, was almost compassionate. Nothing was +said, but the silence meant something like: "Poor chap! -- as if we +hadn't all thought of that long ago!" The proposal was adopted without +discussion, and Wisting had another long job, in addition to all the +rest. Our bunk-curtains were dark red, and made of very light material; +they were sewed together, curtain to curtain, and finally the whole +was made into an outer tent. The curtains only sufficed for one tent, +but, remembering that half a loaf is better than no bread, we had to be +satisfied with this. The red tent, which was set up a few days after, +met with unqualified approval; it would be visible some miles away +in the snow. Another important advantage was that it would protect +and preserve the main tent. Inside, the effect of the combination of +red and blue was to give an agreeably dark shade. Another question +was how to protect the tent from a hundred loose dogs, who were no +better behaved than others of their kind. If the tent became stiff +and brittle, it might be spoilt in a very short time. And the demands +we made on our tents were considerable; we expected them to last at +least 120 days. I therefore got Wisting to make two tent-protectors, +or guards. These guards consisted simply of a piece of gabardine +long enough to stretch all round the tent, and to act as a fence in +preventing the dogs from coming in direct contact with the tents. The +guards were made with loops, so that they could be stretched upon +ski-poles. They looked very fine when they were finished, but they +never came to be used; for, as soon as we began the journey, we +found a material that was even more suitable and always to be had -- +snow. Idiots! -- of course, we all knew that, only we wouldn't say +so. Well, that was one against us. However, the guards came in well as +reserve material on the trip, and many were the uses they were put to.</p> + +<p>In the next place, Wisting had to make wind-clothing for every +man. That we had brought out proved to be too small, but the things +he made were big enough. There was easily room for two more in +my trousers; but they have to be so. In these regions one soon +finds out that everything that is roomy is warm and comfortable, +while everything that is tight -- foot-gear, of course, excepted -- +is warm and uncomfortable. One quickly gets into a perspiration, +and spoils the clothes. Besides the breeches and anorak of light +wind-cloth, he made stockings of the same material. I assumed that +these stockings -- worn among the other stockings we had on -- would +have an insulating effect. Opinions were greatly divided on this point; +but I must confess -- in common with my four companions on the Polar +journey -- that I would never make a serious trip without them. They +fulfilled all our expectations. The rime was deposited on them freely, +and was easily brushed off. If they got wet, it was easy to dry them +in almost all weathers; I know of no material that dries so quickly +as this windproof stuff. Another thing was that they protected the +other stockings against tears, and made them last much longer than +would otherwise have been the case.</p> + +<p>As evidence of how pleased we who took part in the long sledge journey +were with these stockings, I may mention that when we reached the depot +in 80ºS. -- on the homeward trip, be it noted; that is, when we looked +upon the journey as over -- we found there some bags with various +articles of clothing. In one of these were two pairs of windproof +stockings -- the bag presumably belonged to an opponent of the idea -- +and it may be imagined that there was some fun. We all wanted them -- +all, without exception. The two lucky ones each seized his pair and +hid it, as if it was the most costly treasure. What they wanted with +them I cannot guess, as we were at home; but this example shows how +we had learnt to appreciate them.</p> + +<p>I recommend them most warmly to men who are undertaking similar +expeditions. But -- I must add -- they must give themselves the trouble +of taking off their foot-gear every evening, and brushing the rime off +their stockings; if one does not do this, of course, the rime will thaw +in the course of the night, and everything will be soaking wet in the +morning. In that case you must not blame the stockings, but yourself.</p> + +<p>After this it was the turn of the underclothing; there was nothing +in the tailoring and outfitting department that Wisting could not +manage. Among our medical stores we had two large rolls of the most +beautiful fine light flannel, and of this he made underclothing for +all of us. What we had brought out from home was made of extremely +thick woollen material, and we were afraid this would be too +warm. Personally, I wore Wisting's make the whole trip, and have never +known anything so perfect. Then he had covers for the sleeping-bags +to sew and patch, and one thing and another. Some people give one the +impression of being able to make anything, and to get it done in no +time -- others not.</p> + +<p>Hanssen had his days well occupied, industrious and handy as he +was. He was an expert at anything relating to sledges, and knew +exactly what had to be done. Whatever he had a hand in, I could +feel sure of; he never left anything to chance. Besides lashing +the sledges, he had a number of other things to do. Amongst them, +he was to prepare all the whips we required -- two for each driver, +or fourteen altogether. Stubberud was to supply the handles. In +consultation with the "Carpenters' Union," I had chosen a handle +made of three narrow strips of hickory. I assumed that if these were +securely lashed together, and the lashings covered with leather, +they would make as strong a handle as one could expect to get. The +idea of the composite handle of three pieces of wood was that it would +give and bend instead of breaking. We knew by experience that a solid +whip-handle did not last very long. It was arranged, then, that the +handles were to be made by Stubberud, and passed on to Hanssen.</p> + +<p>The whip-lashes were made by Hassel, in the course of the winter, on +the Eskimo model. They were round and heavy -- as they should be -- +and dangerous to come near, when they were wielded by an experienced +hand. Hanssen received these different parts to join them together and +make the whip. As usual, this was done with all possible care. Three +strong lashings were put on each handle, and these again were covered +with leather. Personally, Hanssen was not in favour of the triple +hickory handle, but he did the work without raising any objection. We +all remarked, it is true, that at this time, contrary to his habit, +he spent the hours after supper with Wisting. I wondered a little at +this, as I knew Hanssen was very fond of a game of whist after supper, +and never missed it unless he had work to do. I happened one evening +to express my surprise at this, and Stubberud answered at once: +"He's making handles." -- "What sort of handles?" -- "Whip-handles; +but," Stubberud added, "I'll guarantee those hickory handles I'm +making. You can't have anything tougher and stronger than those." He +was rather sore about it, that was easy to see; the idea was his own, +too. Then -- talk of the devil -- in walked Hanssen, with a fine big +whip in his hand. I, of course, appeared extremely surprised. "What," +I said, "more whips?" -- "Yes," said he; "I don't believe in those +I'm making in the daytime. But here's a whip that I can trust." I +must admit that it looked well. The whole handle was covered, so that +one could not see what it was made of. "But," I ventured to object, +"are you sure it is as strong as the others?" -- "Oh, as to that," +he answered, "I'm quite ready to back it against any of those -- +" He did not say the word, nor was there any need. His meaning was +unmistakable, and "rotten whips" sounded in our ears as plainly as +if he had shouted it. I had no time to observe the effect of this +terrible utterance, for a determined voice called out: "We'll see +about that!" I turned round, and there was Stubberud leaning against +the end of the table, evidently hurt by Hanssen's words, which he took +as a personal affront. "If you dare risk your whip, come on." He had +taken down one of the insulted triple-handled whips from the shelf in +his bunk, and stood in a fighting attitude. This promised well. We +all looked at Hanssen. He had gone too far to be able to draw back; +he had to fight. He took his weapon in his hand, and entered the +"ring." The conditions were arranged and accepted by both parties; +they were to fight until one of the handles was broken. And then the +whip duel began. The opponents were very serious over it. One, two, +three -- the first blow fell, handle against handle. The combatants +had shut their eyes and awaited the result; when they opened them +again, they shone with happy surprise -- both handles were as whole as +before. Now each of them was really delighted with his own handle, +and the blows fell faster. Stubberud, who was standing with his +back to the table, got so excited over the unexpected result that, +every time he raised his weapon, he gave the edge of the table a +resounding smack without knowing it. How many rounds had been fought +I do not know, when I heard a crack, followed by the words: "There +you can see, old man!" As Stubberud left the ring, I was able to see +Hanssen. He stood on the battle-field, eyeing his whip; it looked like +a broken lily. The spectators had not been silent; they had followed +the fight with excitement, amid laughter and shouts. "That's right, +Stubberud. Don't give in!" "Bravo, Hanssen! that's a good one!"</p> + +<p>The whips afterwards turned out remarkably well -- not that they lasted +out the trip, but they held together for a long while. Whip-handles +are a very perishable commodity; if one used nothing but the lash, +they would be everlasting, but, as a rule, one is not long satisfied +with that. It is when one gives a "confirmation," as we call it, that +the handle breaks. A confirmation is generally held when some sinner +or other has gone wrong and refuses to obey. It consists in taking the +first opportunity, when the sledge stops, of going in among the dogs, +taking out the defiant one, and laying into him with the handle. These +confirmations, if they occur frequently, may use up a lot of handles.</p> + +<p>It was also arranged that Hanssen should prepare goggles in the Eskimo +fashion, and he began this work; but it soon appeared that everyone +had some patent of his own which was much better. Therefore it was +given up, and every man made his own goggles.</p> + +<p>Stubberud's chief work was making the sledge cases lighter, and +he succeeded in doing this, but not without hard work. It took far +longer than one would have thought. The wood had a good many knots, +and he often had to work against the grain; the planing was therefore +rather difficult and slow. He planed a good deal off them, but could +"guarantee them," as he said. Their sides were not many millimetres +thick; to strengthen them in the joints, corners of aluminium were +put on.</p> + +<p>In addition to remaking the sledges, Bjaaland had to get the ski +ready. To fit the big, broad boots we should wear, the Huitfeldt +fittings had to be much broader than usual, and we had such with us, +so that Bjaaland had only to change them. The ski-bindings were like +the snow-goggles; everyone had his own patent. I found the bindings +that Bjaaland had put on for himself so efficient that I had no +hesitation in ordering similar ones for myself; and it may be said +to their honour, and to the honour of him who made them, that they +were first-rate, and served me well during the whole trip. They were, +after all, only a retention of the old system, but, with the help of +hooks and eyes, they could be put on and taken off in an instant. And +those were the conditions we demanded of our bindings -- that they +should hold the foot as firmly as a vice, and should be easy to hook +on and take off. For we always had to take them off on the journey; +if one left one's bindings out for a night, they were gone in the +morning. The dogs looked upon them as a delicacy. The toe-strap also +had to be removed in the evening; in other words, the ski had to be +left absolutely bare.</p> + +<p>Johansen, besides his packing, was occupied in making weights and +tent-pegs. The weights were very ingeniously made; the steelyard +system was adopted. If they were never used, it was not the fault of +the weights -- they were good enough. But the reason was that we had +all our provisions so arranged that they could be taken without being +weighed. We were all weighed on August 6, and it then appeared that +Lindström was the heaviest, with 13 st. 8 lbs. On that occasion he was +officially christened "Fatty." The tent-pegs Johansen made were the +opposite of what such pegs usually are; in other words, they were flat +instead of being high. We saw the advantage at once. Besides being +so much lighter, they were many times stronger. I do not know that +we ever broke a peg on the trip; possibly we lost one or two. Most +of them were brought home undamaged.</p> + +<p>Hassel worked at his whip-lashes down in the petroleum store. It was +an uncomfortable place for him -- always cold; but he had the lashes +ready by the time he had promised them.</p> + +<p>Prestrud made charts and copied out tables. Six of us were to have +these copies. In each sledge there was a combined provision and +observation book, bearing the same number as the sledge. It contained, +first, an exact list of the provisions contained in each case on that +sledge, and, in addition, the necessary tables for our astronomical +observations. In these books each man kept a daily account of every +scrap of provisions he took out; in this way we could always check +the contents of the cases, and know what quantity of provisions we +had. Farther on in the book the observations were entered, and the +distance covered for the day, course, and so on.</p> + +<p>That is a rough outline of what we were doing in the course of the +winter in "working hours." Besides this there were, of course, +a hundred things that every man had to do for his personal +equipment. During the winter each man had his outfit served out +to him, so that he might have time to make whatever alterations he +found necessary. Every man received a heavy and a lighter suit of +reindeer-skin, as well as reindeer-skin mits and stockings. He also +had dogskin stockings and sealskin kamiks. In addition, there was a +complete outfit of underclothing and wind-clothes. All were served +alike; there was no priority at all. The skin clothing was the first +to be tackled, and here there was a good deal to be done, as nothing +had been made to measure. One man found that the hood of his anorak +came too far down over his eyes, another that it did not come down far +enough; so both had to set to work at alterations, one cutting off, +the other adding a piece. One found his trousers too long, another +too short, and they had to alter those. However, they managed it; +the needle was always at work, either for sewing a piece on, or for +hemming the shortened piece. Although we began this work in good time, +it looked as if we should never have finished. The room orderly had +to sweep out huge piles of strips and reindeer-hair every morning, +but the next morning there were just as many. If we had stayed there, +I am sure we should still be sitting and sewing away at our outfit.</p> + +<p>A number of patents were invented. Of course, the everlasting mask for +the face was to the fore, and took the form of nose-protectors. I, +too, allowed myself to be beguiled into experimenting, with good +reason, as I thought, but with extremely poor results. I had hit upon +something which, of course, I thought much better than anything that +had been previously tried. The day I put on my invention, I not only +got my nose frozen, but my forehead and cheek as well. I never tried +it again. Hassel was great at new inventions; he wore nose-protectors +all over him. These patents are very good things for passing the time; +when one actually takes the field, they all vanish. They are useless +for serious work.</p> + +<p>The sleeping-bags were also a great source of interest. Johansen +was at work on the double one he was so keen on. Heaven knows how +many skins he put into it! I don't, nor did I ever try to find +out. Bjaaland was also in full swing with alterations to his. He +found the opening at the top inconvenient, and preferred to have it +in the middle; his arrangement of a flap, with buttons and loops, +made it easy to mistake him for a colonel of dragoons when he was +in bed. He was tremendously pleased with it; but so he was with his +snow-goggles, in spite of the fact that he could not see with them, +and that they allowed him to become snow-blind. The rest of us kept +our sleeping-bags as they were, only lengthening or shortening them +as required. We were all greatly pleased with the device for closing +them -- on the plan of a sack. Outside our bags we had a cover of +very thin canvas; this was extremely useful, and I would not be +without it for anything. In the daytime the sleeping-bag was always +well protected by this cover; no snow could get in. At night it was +perhaps even more useful, as it protected the bag from the moisture +of the breath. Instead of condensing on the skin and making it wet, +this settled on the cover, forming in the course of the night a film +of ice, which disappeared again during the day, breaking off while the +bag ay stretched on the sledge. This cover ought to be of ample size; +it is important that it should be rather longer than the sleeping-bag, +so that one may have plenty of it round the neck, and thus prevent +the breath from penetrating into the bag. We all had double bags -- +an inner and an outer one. The inner one was of calf-skin or thin +female reindeer-skin, and quite light; the outer one was of heavy +buck reindeer-skin, and weighed about 13 pounds. Both were open at +the end, like a sack, and were laced together round the neck. I have +always found this pattern the easiest, simplest, most comfortable, +and best. We recommend it to all.</p> + +<p>Novelties in the way of snow-goggles were many. This was, of course, a +matter of the greatest importance and required study -- it was studied, +too! The particular problem was to find good goggles without glass. It +is true that I had worn nothing but a pair of ordinary spectacles, +with light yellow glasses, all the autumn, and that they had proved +excellent; but for the long journey I was afraid these would give +insufficient protection. I therefore threw myself into the competition +for the best patent. The end of it was that we all went in for leather +goggles, with a little slit for the eyes. The Bjaaland patent won the +prize, and was most adopted. Hassel had his own invention, combined +with a nose-protector; when spread out it reminded me of the American +eagle. I never saw him use it. Nor did any of us use these new goggles, +except Bjaaland. He used his own goggles the whole way, but then, +he was the only one who became snow-blind. The spectacles I wore -- +Hanssen had the same; they were the only two pairs we had -- gave +perfect protection; not once did I have a sign of snow-blindness. They +were exactly like other spectacles, without any gauze at all round the +glasses; the light could penetrate everywhere. Dr. Schanz, of Dresden, +who sent me these glasses, has every right to be satisfied with his +invention; its beats anything I have ever tried or seen.</p> + +<p>The next great question was our boots. I had expressly pointed out +that boots must be taken, whether the person concerned intended to +wear them or not; for boots were indispensable, in case of having +to cross any glacier, which was a contingency we had to reckon with, +from the descriptions we had read of the country. With this proviso +everyone might do as he pleased, and all began by improving their +boots in accordance with our previous experience. The improvement +consisted in making them larger. Wisting took mine in hand again, +and began once more to pull them to pieces. It is only by tearing a +thing to pieces that one can see what the work is like. We gained a +good insight into the way our boots had been made; stronger or more +conscientious work it would be impossible to find. It was hard work +pulling them to pieces. This time mine lost a couple more soles. How +many that made altogether I do not remember, but now I got what I had +always called for -- room enough. Besides being able to wear all the +foot-coverings I had, I could also find room for a wooden sole. That +made me happy; my great object was achieved. Now the temperature could +be as low as it liked; it would not get through the wooden soles and +my various stockings -- seven pairs, I think, in all. I was pleased +that evening, as the struggle had been a long one; it had taken me +nearly two years to arrive at this result.</p> + +<p>And then there was the dog-harness, which we must all have in +order. The experience of the last depot journey, when two dogs fell +into a crevasse through faulty harness, must not be allowed to repeat +itself, We therefore devoted great care and attention to this gear, +and used all the best materials we had. The result rewarded our pains; +we had good, strong harness for every team.</p> + +<p>This description will, perhaps, open the eyes of some people, and show +them that the equipment of an expedition such as we were about to enter +upon is not the affair of a day. It is not money alone that makes for +the success of such an expedition -- though, Heaven knows, it is a good +thing to have -- but it is in a great measure -- indeed, I may say +that this is the greatest factor -- the way in which the expedition +is equipped -- the way in which every difficulty is foreseen, and +precautions taken for meeting or avoiding it. Victory awaits him who +has everything in order -- luck, people call it. Defeat is certain for +him who has neglected to take the necessary precautions in time; this +is called bad luck. But pray do not think this is an epitaph I wish +to have inscribed on my own tomb. No; honour where honour is due -- +honour to my faithful comrades, who, by their patience, perseverance +and experience, brought our equipment to the limit of perfection, +and thereby rendered our victory possible.</p> + +<p>On August 16 we began to pack our sledges; two were placed in the +Crystal Palace and two in the Clothing Store. It was a great advantage +to be able to do this work under cover; at this time the temperature +was dancing a cancan between -58º and -75ºF., with an occasional +refreshing breeze of thirteen or fourteen miles an hour. It would have +been almost an impossibility to pack the sledges out of doors under +these conditions if it was to be done carefully and firmly; and, +of course, it had to be so done. Our fixed wire-rope lashings had +to be laced together with lengths of thin rope, and this took time; +but when properly done, as it was now, the cases were held as though +in a vice, and could not move. The zinc plates we had had under the +sledges to keep them up in loose snow had been taken off; we could not +see that we should have any use for them. In their place we had lashed +a spare ski under each sledge, and these were very useful later. By +August 22 all the sledges were ready, waiting to be driven away.</p> + +<p>The dogs did not like the cold weather we had now had for so long; +when the temperature went down between -58º and -75º F., one could +see by their movements that they felt it. They stood still and raised +their feet from the ground in turn, holding each foot up for a while +before putting it down again on the cold surface. They were cunning and +resourceful in the extreme. They did not care very much for fish, and +some of them were difficult to get into the tents on the evenings when +they knew there was fish. Stubberud, especially, had a great deal of +trouble with one of the young dogs -- Funcho was his name. He was born +at Madeira during our stay there in September, 1910. On meat evenings +each man, after fastening up his dogs, went, as has been described, +up to the wall of the meat-tent and took his box of chopped-up meat, +which was put out there. Funcho used to watch for this moment. When he +saw Stubberud take the box, he knew there was meat, and then he came +quietly into the tent, as though there was nothing the matter. If, on +the other hand, Stubberud showed no sign of fetching the box, the dog +would not come, nor was it possible to get hold of him. This happened +a few times, but then Stubberud hit upon a stratagem. When Funcho, +as usual -- even on a fish evening -- watched the scene of chaining up +the other dogs from a distance, Stubberud went calmly up to the wall, +took the empty box that lay there, put it on his shoulder, and returned +to the tent. Funcho was taken in. He hurried joyfully into the tent, +delighted, no doubt, with Stubberud's generosity in providing meat two +evenings running. But there, to his great surprise, a very different +reception awaited him from that he expected. He was seized by the neck +and made fast for the night. After an ugly scowl at the empty box, +he looked at Stubberud; what he thought, I am not sure. Certain it +is that the ruse was not often successful after that. Funcho got a +dried fish for supper, and had to be content with it.</p> + +<p>We did not lose many dogs in the course of the winter. Two -- Jeppe +and Jakob -- died of some disease or other. Knægten was shot, as he +lost almost all his hair over half his body. Madeiro, born at Madeira, +disappeared early in the autumn; Tom disappeared later -- both these +undoubtedly fell into crevasses. We had a very good opportunity -- +twice -- of seeing how this might happen; both times we saw the dog +disappear into the crevasse, and could watch him from the surface. He +went quite quietly backwards and forwards down below without uttering +a sound. These crevasses were not deep, but they were steep-sided, +so that the dog could not get out without help. The two dogs I have +mentioned undoubtedly met their death in this way: a slow death +it must be, when one remembers how tenacious of life a dog is. It +happened several times that dogs disappeared, were absent for some +days, and then came back; possibly they had been down a crevasse, and +had finally succeeded in getting out of it again. Curiously enough, +they did not pay much attention to the weather when they went on trips +of this kind. When the humour took them, they would disappear, even +if the temperature was down in the fifties below zero, with wind and +driving snow. Thus Jaala, a lady belonging to Bjaaland, took it into +her head to go off with three attendant cavaliers. We came upon them +later; they were then lying quietly behind a hummock down on the ice, +and seemed to be quite happy. They had been away for about eight days +without food, and during that time the temperature had seldom been +above -58º F.</p> + +<p>August 23 arrived: calm, partly overcast, and -43.6ºF. Finer weather +for taking out our sledges and driving them over to the starting-point +could not be imagined. They had to be brought up through the door +of the Clothing Store; it was the largest and the easiest to get +through. We had first to dig away the snow, which latterly had been +allowed to collect there, as the inmates of this department had +for some time past used the inner passage. The snow had blotted out +everything, so that no sign of the entrance could be seen; but with +a couple of strong shovels, and a couple of strong men to use them, +the opening was soon laid bare. To get the sledges up was a longer +business; they weighed 880 pounds apiece, and the way up to the surface +was steep. A tackle was rigged, and by hauling and shoving they slowly, +one by one, came up into daylight. We dragged them away to a place +near the instrument-screen, so as to get a clear start away from the +house. The dogs were fresh and wild, and wanted plenty of room; a case, +not to mention a post, still less the instrument-screen, would all +have been objects of extreme interest, to which, if there had been +the slightest opportunity, their course would infallibly have been +directed. The protests of their drivers would have been of little +avail. The dogs had not been let loose that morning, and every man +was now in his tent harnessing them. Meanwhile I stood contemplating +the packed sledges that stood there ready to begin the long journey.</p> + +<p>I tried to work up a little poetry -- "the ever-restless spirit of +man " -- "the mysterious, awe-inspiring wilderness of ice" -- but it +was no good; I suppose it was too early in the morning. I abandoned +my efforts, after coming to the conclusion that each sledge gave one +more the idea of a coffin than of anything else, all the cases being +painted black.</p> + +<p>It was as we had expected: the dogs were on the verge of +exploding. What a time we had getting them all into the traces! They +could not stand still an instant; either it was a friend they wanted +to wish good-morning, or it was an enemy they were longing to fly +at. There was always something going on; when they kicked out with +their hind-legs, raising a cloud of snow, or glared defiantly at each +other, it often caused their driver an anxious moment. If he had his +eye on them at this stage, he might, by intervening quickly and firmly, +prevent the impending battle; but one cannot be everywhere at once, +and the result was a series of the wildest fights. Strange beasts! They +had been going about the place comparatively peacefully the whole +winter, and now, as soon as they were in harness, they must needs +fight as if their lives depended on it. At last we were all ready +and away. It was the first time we had driven with teams of twelve, +so that we were anxious to see the result.</p> + +<p>It went better than we had expected; of course, not like an express +train, but we could not expect that the first time. Some of the dogs +had grown too fat in the course of the winter, and had difficulty in +keeping up; for them this first trip was a stiff pull. But most of them +were in excellent condition -- fine, rounded bodies, not lumpish. It +did not take long to get up the hill this time; most of them had to +stop and get their wind on the slope, but there were some that did +it without a halt. Up at the top everything looked just as we had +left it in April. The flag was still standing where we had planted +it, and did not look much the worse for wear. And, what was still +stranger, we could see our old tracks southward. We drove all our +sledges well up, unharnessed the dogs, and let them go. We took it +for granted that they would all rush joyfully home to the flesh-pots, +nor did the greater number disappoint us. They set off gaily homewards, +and soon the ice was strewn with dogs. They did not behave altogether +like good children. In some places there was a sort of mist over the +ice; this was the cloud of snow thrown up by the combatants. But on +their return they were irreproachable; one could not take any notice +of a halt here and there. At the inspection that evening, it appeared +that ten of them were missing. That was strange -- could all ten have +gone down crevasses? It seemed unlikely.</p> + +<p>Next morning two men went over to the starting-point to look for +the missing dogs. On the way they crossed a couple of crevasses, but +there was no dog to be seen. When they arrived at the place where the +sledges stood, there lay all ten curled up asleep. They were lying +by their own sledges, and did not seem to take the slightest notice +of the men's arrival. One or two of them may have opened an eye, +but that was all. When they were roused and given to understand by +unmistakable signs that their presence was desired at home, they seemed +astonished beyond all bounds. Some of them simply declined to believe +it; they merely turned round a few times and lay down again on the +same spot. They had to be flogged home. Can anything more inexplicable +be imagined? There they lay, three miles from their comfortable home, +where they knew that abundance of food awaited them -- in a temperature +of -40ºF. Although they had now been out for twenty-four hours, none of +them gave a sign of wanting to leave the spot. If it had been summer, +with warm sunshine, one might have understood it; but as it was -- no!</p> + +<p>That day -- August 24 -- the sun appeared above the Barrier again for +the first time in four months. He looked very smiling, with a friendly +nod for the old pressure-ridges he had seen for so many years; but +when his first beams reached the starting-point, his face might well +show surprise. "Well, if they're not first, after all! And I've been +doing all I could to get here!" It could not be denied; we had won +the race, and reached the Barrier a day before him.</p> + +<p>The day for our actual start could not be fixed; we should have to +wait until the temperature moderated somewhat. So long as it continued +to grovel in the depths, we could not think of setting out. All our +things were now ready up on the Barrier, and nothing remained but +to harness the dogs and start. When I say all our things were ready, +this is not the impression anyone would have gained who looked in on +us; the cutting out and sewing were going on worse than ever. What +had previously occurred to one as a thing of secondary importance, +which might be done if there was time, but might otherwise quite well +be dropped, now suddenly appeared as the most important part of the +whole outfit; and then out came the knife and cut away, until great +heaps of offcuts and hair lay about the floor; then the needle was +produced, and seam after seam added to those there were already.</p> + +<p>The days went by, and the temperature would give no sign of spring; +now and then it would make a jump of about thirty degrees, but only +to sink just as rapidly back to -58º F. It is not at all pleasant to +hang about waiting like this; I always have the idea that I am the only +one who is left behind, while all the others are out on the road. And +I could guess that I was not the only one of us who felt this.</p> + +<p>"I'd give something to know how far Scott is to-day."</p> + +<p>"Oh, he's not out yet, bless you! It's much too cold for his ponies."</p> + +<p>"Ah, but how do you know they have it as cold as this? I expect it's +far warmer where they are, among the mountains; and you can take your +oath they're not lying idle. Those boys have shown what they can do."</p> + +<p>This was the sort of conversation one could hear daily. The uncertainty +was worrying many of us -- not all -- and, personally, I felt it a +great deal. I was determined to get away as soon as it was at all +possible, and the objection that much might be lost by starting too +early did not seem to me to have much force. If we saw that it was +too cold, all we had to do was to turn back; so that I could not see +there was any risk.</p> + +<p>September came, with -43.6º F. That is a temperature that one can +always stand, but we had better wait and see what it is going to do; +perhaps it will only play its old tricks again. Next day, -63.4º +F.; calm and clear. September 6, -20.2º F. At last the change had +come, and we thought it was high time. Next day, -7.6º F. The little +slant of wind that came from the east felt quite like a mild spring +breeze. Well, at any rate, we now had a good temperature to start +in. Every man ready; to-morrow we are off.</p> + +<p>September 8 arrived. We turned out as usual, had breakfast, and were +then on the move. We had not much to do. The empty sledges we were to +use for driving up to the starting-point were ready; we only had to +throw a few things on to them. But it turned out that the mere fact +of having so few things was the cause of its taking a long time. We +were to harness twelve dogs to the empty sledges, and we had an idea +that it would cost us a struggle to get away. We helped each other, +two and two, to bring the dogs to the sledges and harness them. Those +who were really careful had anchored their sledges to a peg firmly +fixed in the snow; others had contented themselves with capsizing +their sledges; and others, again, were even more reckless. We all +had to be ready before the first man could start; otherwise, it would +have been impossible for those who were behind to hold in their dogs, +and the result would have been a false start.</p> + +<p>Our dogs were in a fearful state of excitement and confusion that +morning, but at last everything was ready, barring one or two +trifles. Then I suddenly heard a wild yell, and, spinning round, +I saw a team tearing off without a driver. The next driver rushed +forward to help, with the result that his dogs made off after the +others. The two sledges were on ahead, and the two drivers after them +in full gallop; but the odds were too unequal -- in a few moments +the drivers were beaten. The two runaway teams had made off in a +south-westerly direction, and were going like the wind. The men had +hard work; they had long ago stopped running, and were now following +in the tracks of the sledges. The dogs had disappeared behind the +ridges, which the men did not reach till much later.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the rest of us waited. The question was, what would those +two do when at last they had come up with their sledges? Would they +turn and go home, or would they drive up to the starting-point? Waiting +was no fun under any circumstances, and so we decided to go on to the +starting-point, and, if necessary, wait there. No sooner said than +done, and away we went. Now we should see what command the fellows had +over their dogs, for, in all canine probability, these teams would now +try to follow the same course that the runaways had taken. This fear +turned out not to be groundless; three managed to turn their dogs and +put them in the right direction, but the other two were off on the +new course. Afterwards, of course, they tried to make out that they +thought we were all going that way. I smiled, but said nothing. It +had happened more than once that my own dogs had taken charge; no +doubt I had felt rather foolish at the time, but after all ....</p> + +<p>It was not till noon that we all assembled with our sledges. The +drivers of the runaways had had stiff work to catch them, and were +wet through with their exertions. I had some thoughts of turning +back, as three young puppies had followed us; if we went on, we +should have to shoot them. But to turn back after all this work, +and then probably have the same thing over again next morning, was +not a pleasant prospect. And, above all, to see Lindström standing +at the door, shaking with laughter -- no, we had better go on. I +think we were all agreed in this. The dogs were now harnessed to the +loaded sledges, and the empty ones were stacked one above another. At +1.30 p.m. we were off. The old tracks were soon lost sight of, but we +immediately picked up the line of flags that had been set up at every +second kilometre on the last depot journey. The going was splendid, +and we went at a rattling pace to the south. We did not go very far +the first day -- eleven and three-quarter miles -- and pitched our +camp at 3.30 p.m. The first night out is never very pleasant, but this +time it was awful. There was such a row going on among our ninety dogs +that we could not close our eyes. It was a blessed relief when four in +the morning came round, and we could begin to get up. We had to shoot +the three puppies when we stopped for lunch that day. The going was +the same; nothing could be better. The flags we were following stood +just as we had left them; they showed no trace of there having been any +snowfall in the interval. That day we did fifteen and a half miles. The +dogs were not yet in training, but were picking up every hour.</p> + +<p>By the 10th they seemed to have reached their full vigour; that day +none of us could hold in his team. They all wanted to get forward, with +the result that one team ran into another, and confusion followed. This +was a tiresome business; the dogs wore themselves out to no purpose, +and, of course, the time spent in extricating them from one another +was lost. They were perfectly wild that day. When Lassesen, for +instance, caught sight of his enemy Hans, who was in another team, +he immediately encouraged his friend Fix to help him. These two then +put on all the speed they could, with the result that the others in +the same team were excited by the sudden acceleration, and joined +in the spurt. It made no difference how the driver tried to stop +them; they went on just as furiously, until they reached the team +that included the object of Lassesen's and Fix's endeavours. Then +the two teams dashed into each other, and we had ninety-six dogs' +legs to sort out. The only thing that could be done was to let those +who could not hold in their teams unharness some of the dogs and tie +them on the sledge. In this way we got things to work satisfactorily +at last. We covered eighteen and a half miles that day.</p> + +<p>On Monday, the 11th, we woke up to a temperature of -67.9º F. The +weather was splendid, calm, and clear. We could see by the dogs +that they were not feeling happy, as they had kept comparatively +quiet that night. The cold affected the going at once; it was slow +and unyielding. We came across some crevasses, and Hanssen's sledge +was nearly in one; but it was held up, and he came out of it without +serious consequences. The cold caused no discomfort on the march; +on the contrary, at times it was too warm. One's breath was like a +cloud, and so thick was the vapour over the dogs that one could not +see one team from the next, though the sledges were being driven +close to one another.</p> + +<p>On the 12th it was -61.6º F., with a breeze dead against us. This +was undeniably bitter. It was easy to see that the temperature +was too much for the dogs; in the morning, especially, they were +a pitiful sight. They lay rolled up as tightly as possible, with +their noses under their tails, and from time to time one could see a +shiver run through their bodies; indeed, some of them were constantly +shivering. We had to lift them up and put them into their harness. I +had to admit that with this temperature it would not pay to go on; +the risk was too great. We therefore decided to drive on to the +depot in 80º S., and unload our sledges there. On that day, too, +we made the awkward discovery that the fluid in our compasses had +frozen, rendering them useless. The weather had become very thick, +and we could only guess vaguely the position of the sun. Our progress +under these circumstances was very doubtful; possibly we were on +the right course, but it was just as probable -- nay, more so -- +that we were off it. The best thing we could do, therefore, was to +pitch our camp, and wait for a better state of things. We did not +bless the instrument-maker who had supplied those compasses.</p> + +<p>It was 10 a.m. when we stopped. In order to have a good shelter for the +long day before us, we decided to build two snow-huts. The snow was +not good for this purpose, but, by fetching blocks from all sides, +we managed to put up the huts. Hanssen built one and Wisting the +other. In a temperature such as we now had, a snow-hut is greatly +preferable to a tent, and we felt quite comfortable when we came in +and got the Primus going. That night we heard a strange noise round +us. I looked under my bag to see whether we had far to drop, but +there was no sign of a disturbance anywhere. In the other but they +had heard nothing. We afterwards discovered that the sound was only +due to snow "settling." By this expression I mean the movement that +takes place when a large extent of the snow surface breaks and sinks +(settles down). This movement gives one the idea that the ground is +sinking under one, and it is not a pleasant feeling. It is followed +by a dull roar, which often makes the dogs jump into the air -- and +their drivers, too, for that matter. Once we heard this booming on +the plateau so loud that it seemed like the thunder of cannon. We +soon grew accustomed to it.</p> + +<p>Next day the temperature was -62.5º F., calm, and perfectly clear. We +did eighteen and a half miles, and kept our course as well as we could +with the help of the sun. It was -69.3º F. when we camped. This time +I had done a thing that I have always been opposed to: I had brought +spirits with me in the form of a bottle of Norwegian aquavit and a +bottle of gin. I thought this a suitable occasion to bring in the +gin. It was as hard as flint right through. While we were thawing it +the bottle burst, and we threw it out into the snow, with the result +that all the dogs started to sneeze. The next bottle -- "Aquavit, +No. 1" -- was like a bone, but we had learnt wisdom by experience, +and we succeeded with care in thawing it out. We waited till we were +all in our bags, and then we had one. I was greatly disappointed; +it was not half so good as I had thought. But I am glad I tried it, +as I shall never do so again. The effect was nil; I felt nothing, +either in my head or my feet.</p> + +<p>The 14th was cool -- the temperature remained at -68.8º F. Fortunately +it was clear, so that we could see where we were going. We had not gone +far before a bright projection appeared on the level surface. Out with +the glasses -- the depot! There it lay, right in our course. Hanssen, +who had driven first the whole way, without a forerunner, and for +the most part without a compass, had no need to be ashamed of his +performance. We agreed that it was well done, and that, no doubt, +was all the thanks he got. We reached it at 10.15 a.m., and unloaded +our sledges at once. Wisting undertook the far from pleasant task of +getting us a cup of warm milk at -68.8º F. He put the Primus behind +one of the cases of provisions, and set it going; strangely enough, +the paraffin was still liquid in the vessel, but this was no doubt +because it had been well protected in the case. A cup of Horlick's +Malted Milk tasted better that day than the last time I had tried it -- +in a restaurant in Chicago.</p> + +<p>Having enjoyed that, we threw ourselves on the almost empty sledges, +and set our course for home. The going was difficult, but, with the +light weight they now had to pull, the dogs went along well. I sat +with Wisting, as I considered his team the strongest. The cold held +on unchanged, and I was often surprised that it was possible to sit +still on the sledges, as we did, without freezing; but we got on quite +well. One or two I saw off their sledges all day, and most of us jumped +off from time to time and ran by the side to get warm. I myself took to +my ski and let myself be pulled along. This so-called sport has never +appealed to me, but under the circumstances it was permissible; it +warmed my feet, and that was the object of it. I again had recourse to +this "sport" of ski-driving later on, but that was for another reason.</p> + +<p>On the 15th, as we sat in the tent cooking and chatting, Hanssen +suddenly said: "Why, I believe my heel's gone!" Off came his stockings, +and there was a big, dead heel, like a lump of tallow. It did not look +well. He rubbed it until he thought he "could feel something again," +and then put his feet back in his stockings and got into his bag. Now +it was Stubberud's turn. "Blest if I don't think there's something +wrong with mine, too." Same proceeding -- same result. This was +pleasant -- two doubtful heels, and forty-six miles from Framheim! When +we started next morning it was fortunately milder -- "almost summer": +-40º F. It felt quite pleasant. The difference between -40º and -60º +is, in my opinion, very perceptible. It may perhaps be thought that +when one gets so far down, a few degrees one way or the other do not +make any difference, but they do.</p> + +<p>While driving that day we were obliged to let loose several of the +dogs, who could not keep up; we supposed that they would follow our +tracks. Adam and Lazarus were never seen again. Sara fell dead on +the way without any previous symptom. Camilla was also among those +let loose.</p> + +<p>On the way home we kept the same order as on the previous days. Hanssen +and Wisting, as a rule, were a long way ahead, unless they stopped and +waited. We went at a tearing pace. We had thought of halting at the +sixteen-mile flag, as we called it -- the mark at thirty kilometres +from Framheim -- and waiting for the others to come up, but as the +weather was of the best, calm and clear, and with our tracks on the +way south perfectly plain, I decided to go on. The sooner we got the +bad heels into the house, the better. The two first sledges arrived +at 4 p.m.; the next at 6, and the two following ones at 6.30. The +last did not come in till 12.30 a.m. Heaven knows what they had been +doing on the way!</p> + +<p>With the low temperatures we experienced on this trip, we noticed a +curious snow-formation that I had never seen before. Fine -- extremely +fine -- drift-snow collected, and formed small cylindrical bodies +of an average diameter of 1 1/4 inches, and about the same height; +they were, however, of various sizes. They generally rolled over the +surface like a wheel, and now and then collected into large heaps, +from which again, one by one, or several together, they continued +their rolling. If you took one of these bodies in the hand, there +was no increase of weight to be felt -- not the very slightest. If +you took one of the largest and crushed it, there was, so to speak, +nothing left. With the temperature in the -40's, we did not see them.</p> + +<p>As soon as we came home, we attended to the heels. Prestrud had both +his heels frozen, one slightly, the other more severely, though, so +far as I could determine, not so badly as the other two. The first +thing we did was to lance the big blisters that had formed and let out +the fluid they contained; afterwards we put on boracic compresses, +night and morning. We kept up this treatment for a long time; at +last the old skin could be removed, and the new lay there fresh and +healthy. The heel was cured.</p> + +<p>Circumstances had arisen which made me consider it necessary to +divide the party into two. One party was to carry out the march to +the south; the other was to try to reach King Edward VII. Land, and +see what was to be done there, besides exploring the region around +the Bay of Whales. This party was composed of Prestrud, Stubberud, +and Johansen, under the leadership of the first-named.</p> + +<p>The advantages of this new arrangement were many. In the first place, +a smaller party could advance more rapidly than a larger one. Our +numbers, both of men and dogs, on several of the previous trips had +clearly shown the arrangement to be unfortunate. The time we took to +get ready in the morning -- four hours -- was one of the consequences +of being a large party. With half the number, or only one tent full, +I hoped to be able to reduce this time by half. The importance of the +depots we had laid down was, of course, greatly increased, since they +would now only have to support five members of the party originally +contemplated, and would thus be able to furnish them with supplies +for so much more time. From a purely scientific point of view, the +change offered such obvious advantages that it is unnecessary to +insist upon them. Henceforward, therefore, we worked, so to speak, +in two parties. The Polar party was to leave as soon as spring came +in earnest. I left it to Prestrud himself to fix the departure of +the party he was to lead; there was no such hurry for them -- they +could take things more easily.</p> + +<p>Then the same old fuss about the outfit began all over again, and the +needles were busy the whole time. Two days after our return, Wisting +and Bjaaland went out to the thirty-kilometre mark with the object +of bringing in the dogs that had been let loose on that part of the +route and had not yet returned. They made the trip of sixty kilometres +(thirty-seven and a half miles) in six hours, and brought all the +stragglers -- ten of them -- back with them. The farthest of them +were found lying by the flag; none of them showed a sign of getting +up when the sledges came. They had to be picked up and harnessed, +and one or two that had sore feet were driven on the sledges. In all +probability most of them would have returned in a few days. But it +is incomprehensible that healthy, plucky dogs, as many of them were, +should take it into their heads to stay behind like that.</p> + +<p>On September 24 we had the first tidings of spring, when Bjaaland +came back from the ice and told us he had shot a seal. So the seals +had begun to come up on to the ice; this was a good sign. The next day +we went out to bring it in, and we got another at the same time. There +was excitement among the dogs when they got fresh meat, to say nothing +of fresh blubber. Nor were we men inclined to say no to a fresh steak.</p> + +<p>On September 27 we removed the roof that had covered over the window +of our room. We had to carry the light down through a long wooden +channel, so that it was considerably reduced by the time it came in; +but it was light -- genuine daylight -- and it was much appreciated.</p> + +<p>On the 26th Camilla came back, after an absence of ten days. She had +been let loose sixty-eight miles from Framheim on the last trip. When +she came in, she was as fat as ever; probably she had been feasting +in her solitude on one of her comrades. She was received with great +ovations by her many admirers.</p> + +<p>On September 29 a still more certain sign of spring appeared -- +a flight of Antarctic petrels. They came flying up to us to bring +the news that now spring had come -- this time in earnest. We were +delighted to see these fine, swift birds again. They flew round +the house several times to see whether we were all there still; +and we were not long in going out to receive them. It was amusing +to watch the dogs: at first the birds flew pretty near the ground; +when the dogs caught sight of them, they rushed out -- the whole +lot of them -- to catch them. They tore along, scouring the ground, +and, of course, all wanted to be first. Then the birds suddenly rose +into the air, and presently the dogs lost sight of them. They stood +still for a moment, glaring at each other, evidently uncertain of +what was the best thing to do. Such uncertainty does not, as a rule, +last long. They made up their minds with all desirable promptitude +and flew at each other's throats.</p> + +<p>So now spring had really arrived; we had only to cure the frost-bitten +heels and then away.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER X: <a name="x"></a> +The Start for the Pole</h2> + +<p>At last we got away, on October 19. The weather for the past few +days had not been altogether reliable; now windy, now calm -- now +snowing, now clear: regular spring weather, in other words. That +day it continued unsettled; it was misty and thick in the morning, +and did not promise well for the day, but by 9.30 there was a light +breeze from the east, and at the same time it cleared.</p> + +<p>There was no need for a prolonged inquiry into the sentiments of the +party. -- What do you think? Shall we start?" -- Yes, of course. Let's +be jogging on." There was only one opinion about it. Our coursers were +harnessed in a jiffy, and with a little nod -- as much as to say, +"See you to-morrow" -- we were off. I don't believe Lindström even +came out of doors to see us start. "Such an everyday affair: what's +the use of making a fuss about it?"</p> + +<p>There were five of us -- Hanssen, Wisting, Hassel, Bjaaland, and +myself. We had four sledges, with thirteen dogs to each. At the start +our sledges were very light, as we were only taking supplies for the +trip to 80º S., where all our cases were waiting for us; we could +therefore sit on the sledges and flourish our whips with a jaunty +air. I sat astride on Wisting's sledge, and anyone who had seen us +would no doubt have thought a Polar journey looked very inviting.</p> + +<p>Down on the sea-ice stood Prestrud with the cinematograph, turning +the crank as fast as he could go as we went past. When we came up +on to the Barrier on the other side, he was there again, turning +incessantly. The last thing I saw, as we went over the top of the +ridge and everything familiar disappeared, was a cinematograph; it was +coming inland at full speed. I had been engaged in looking out ahead, +and turned round suddenly to throw a last glance in the direction +of the spot that to us stood for all that was beautiful on earth, +when I caught sight of -- what do you think? A cinematograph. "He +can't be taking anything but air now, can he?" -- "Hardly that." The +cinematograph vanished below the horizon.</p> + +<p>The going was excellent, but the atmosphere became thicker as we went +inland. For the first twelve miles from the edge of the Barrier I +had been sitting with Hassel, but, seeing that Wisting's dogs could +manage two on the sledge better than the others, I moved. Hanssen +drove first; he had to steer by compass alone, as the weather had +got thicker. After him came Bjaaland, then Hassel, and, finally, +Wisting and I. We had just gone up a little slope, when we saw that +it dropped rather steeply on the other side; the descent could not be +more than 20 yards long. I sat with my back to the dogs, looking aft, +and was enjoying the brisk drive. Then suddenly the surface by the +side of the sledge dropped perpendicularly, and showed a yawning black +abyss, large enough to have swallowed us all, and a little more. A few +inches more to one side, and we should have taken no part in the Polar +journey. We guessed from this broken surface that we had come too far +to the east, and altered our course more westerly. When we had reached +safer ground, I took the opportunity of putting on my ski and driving +so; in this way the weight was more distributed. Before very long it +cleared a little, and we saw one of our mark-flags straight ahead. We +went up to it; many memories clung to the spot -- cold and slaughter +of dogs. It was there we had killed the three puppies on the last trip.</p> + +<p>We had then covered seventeen miles, and we camped, well pleased +with the first day of our long journey. My belief that, with all in +one tent, we should manage our camping and preparations much better +than before was fully justified. The tent went up as though it arose +out of the ground, and everything was done as though we had had long +practice. We found we had ample room in the tent, and our arrangements +worked splendidly the whole time. They were as follows: as soon as we +halted, all took a hand at the tent. The pegs in the valance of the +tent were driven in, and Wisting crept inside and planted the pole, +while the rest of us stretched the guy-ropes. When this was done, +I went in, and all the things that were to go inside were handed in +to me -- sleeping-bags, kit-bags, cookers, provisions. Everything +was put in its place, the Primus lighted, and the cooker filled with +snow. Meanwhile the others fed their dogs and let them loose. Instead +of the "guard," we shovelled loose snow round the tent; this proved to +be sufficient protection -- the dogs respected it. The bindings were +taken off all our ski, and either stowed with other loose articles +in a provision-case, or hung up together with the harness on the top +of the ski, which were lashed upright to the front of the sledge. The +tent proved excellent in every way; the dark colour subdued the light, +and made it agreeable.</p> + +<p>Neptune, a fine dog, was let loose when we had come six miles over +the plain; he was so fat that he could not keep up. We felt certain +that he would follow us, but he did not appear. We then supposed +that he had turned back and made for the flesh-pots, but, strangely +enough, he did not do that either. He never arrived at the station; +it is quite a mystery what became of him. Rotta, another fine animal, +was also set free; she was not fit for the journey, and she afterwards +arrived at home. Ulrik began by having a ride on the sledge; he picked +up later. Björn went limping after the sledge. Peary was incapacitated; +he was let loose and followed for a time, but then disappeared. When +the eastern party afterwards visited the depot in 80º S., they found +him there in good condition. He was shy at first, but by degrees let +them come near him and put the harness on. He did very good service +after that. Uranus and Fuchs were out of condition. This was pretty bad +for the first day, but the others were all worth their weight in gold.</p> + +<p>During the night it blew a gale from the east, but it moderated in the +morning, so that we got away at 10 a.m. The weather did not hold for +long; the wind came again with renewed force from the same quarter, +with thick driving snow. However, we went along well, and passed flag +after flag. After going nineteen and a quarter miles, we came to +a snow beacon that had been erected at the beginning of April, and +had stood for seven months; it was still quite good and solid. This +gave us a good deal to think about: so we could depend upon these +beacons; they would not fall down. From the experience thus gained, +we afterwards erected the whole of our extensive system of beacons on +the way south. The wind went to the south-east during the day; it blew, +but luckily it had stopped snowing. The temperature was -11.5º F., +and bitter enough against the wind. When we stopped in the evening +and set our tent, we had just found our tracks from the last trip; +they were sharp and clear, though six weeks old. We were glad to find +them, as we had seen no flag for some time, and were beginning to +get near the ugly trap, forty-six and a half miles from the house, +that had been found on the last depot journey, so we had to be careful.</p> + +<p>The next day, the 21st, brought very thick weather: a strong breeze +from the south-east, with thick driving snow. It would not have been +a day for crossing the trap if we had not found our old tracks. It +was true that we could not see them far, but we could still see the +direction they took. So as to be quite safe, I now set our course +north-east by east -- two points east was the original course. And +compared with our old tracks, this looked right, as the new course +was considerably more easterly than the direction of the tracks. One +last glance over the camping-ground to see whether anything was +forgotten, and then into the blizzard. It was really vile weather, +snowing from above and drifting from below, so that one was quite +blinded. We could not see far; very often we on the last sledge had +difficulty in seeing the first. Bjaaland was next in front of us. For +a long time we had been going markedly downhill, and this was not +in accordance with our reckoning; but in that weather one could not +make much of a reckoning. We had several times passed over crevasses, +but none of any size. Suddenly we saw Bjaaland's sledge sink over. He +jumped off and seized the trace. The sledge lay on its side for a few +seconds, then began to sink more and more, and finally disappeared +altogether. Bjaaland had got a good purchase in the snow, and the +dogs lay down and dug their claws in. The sledge sank more and more -- +all this happened in a few moments.</p> + +<p>"Now I can't hold it any longer." We -- Wisting and I -- had just come +up. He was holding on convulsively, and resisting with all his force, +but it was no use -- inch by inch the sledge sank deeper. The dogs, +too, seemed to understand the gravity of the situation; stretched out +in the snow, they dug their claws in, and resisted with all their +strength. But still, inch by inch, slowly and surely, it went down +into the abyss. Bjaaland was right enough when he said he couldn't +hold on any longer. A few seconds more, and his sledge and thirteen +dogs would never have seen the light of day again. Help came at the +last moment. Hanssen and Hassel, who were a little in advance when +it happened, had snatched an Alpine rope from a sledge and came to +his assistance. They made the rope fast to the trace, and two of +us -- Bjaaland and I -- were now able, by getting a good purchase, +to hold the sledge suspended. First the dogs were taken out; then +Hassel's sledge was drawn back and placed across the narrowest part +of the crevasse, where we could see that the edges were solid. Then +by our combined efforts the sledge, which was dangling far below, was +hoisted up as far as we could get it, and made fast to Hassel's sledge +by the dogs' traces. Now we could slack off and let go: one sledge hung +securely enough by the other. We could breathe a little more freely.</p> + +<p>The next thing to be done was to get the sledge right, up, and before +we could manage that it had to be unloaded. A man would have to go +down on the rope, cast off the lashings of the cases, and attach them +again for drawing up. They all wanted this job, but Wisting had it; +he fastened the Alpine rope round his body and went down. Bjaaland +and I took up our former positions, and acted as anchors; meanwhile +Wisting reported what he saw down below. The case with the cooker was +hanging by its last thread; it was secured, and again saw the light +of day. Hassel and Hanssen attended to the hauling up of the cases, +as Wisting had them ready. These two fellows moved about on the brink +of the chasm with a coolness that I regarded at first with approving +eyes. I admire courage and contempt for danger. But the length to which +they carried it at last was too much of a good thing; they were simply +playing hide-and-seek with Fate. Wisting's information from below -- +that the cornice they were standing on was only a few inches thick -- +did not seem to have the slightest effect on them; on the contrary, +they seemed to stand all the more securely.</p> + +<p>"We've been lucky," said Wisting; "this is the only place where the +crevasse is narrow enough to put a sledge across. If we had gone a +little more to the left" -- Hanssen looked eagerly in that direction +-- "none of us would have escaped. There is no surface there; only +a crust as thin as paper. It doesn't look very inviting down below, +either; immense spikes of ice sticking up everywhere, which would +spit you before you got very far down."</p> + +<p>This description was not attractive; it was well we had found "such a +good place." Meanwhile Wisting had finished his work, and was hauled +up. When asked whether he was not glad to be on the surface again, +he answered with a smile that "it was nice and warm down there." We +then hauled the sledge up, and for the time being all was well. "But," +said Hassel, "we must be careful going along here, because I was +just on the point of going in when Hanssen and I were bringing up the +sledge." He smiled as though at a happy memory. Hassel had seen that +it was best to be careful. There was no need to look for crevasses; +there was literally nothing else to be seen.</p> + +<p>There could be no question of going farther into the trap, for we had +long ago come to the conclusion that, in spite of our precautions, +we had arrived at this ugly place. We should have to look about for +a place for the tent, but that was easier said than done. There was +no possibility of finding a place large enough for both the tent and +the guy-ropes; the tent was set up on a small, apparently solid spot, +and the guys stretched across crevasses in all directions. We were +beginning to be quite familiar with the place. That crevasse ran +there and there, and it had a side-fissure that went so and so -- +just like schoolboys learning a lesson.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile we had brought all our things as far as possible into a +place of safety; the dogs lay harnessed to reduce the risk of losing +them. Wisting was just going over to his sledge -- he had gone the +same way several times before -- when suddenly I saw nothing but his +head, shoulders and arms above the snow. He had fallen through, but +saved himself by stretching his arms out as he fell. The crevasse +was bottomless, like the rest. We went into the tent and cooked +lobscouse. Leaving the weather to take care of itself, we made +ourselves as comfortable as we could. It was then one o'clock in +the afternoon. The wind had fallen considerably since we came in, +and before we knew what was happening, it was perfectly calm. It +began to brighten a little about three, and we went out to look at it.</p> + +<p>The weather was evidently improving, and on the northern horizon +there was a sign of blue sky. On the south it was thick. Far off, +in the densest part of the mist, we could vaguely see the outline of +a dome-like elevation, and Wisting and Hanssen went off to examine +it. The dome turned out to be one of the small haycock formations that +we had seen before in this district. They struck at it with their +poles, and just as they expected -- it was hollow, and revealed the +darkest abyss. Hanssen was positively chuckling with delight when he +told us about it; Hassel sent him an envious glance.</p> + +<p>By 4 p.m. it cleared, and a small reconnoitring party, composed of +three, started to find a way out of this. I was one of the three, +so we had a long Alpine rope between us; I don't like tumbling in, +if I can avoid it by such simple means. We set out to the east -- the +direction that had brought us out of the same broken ground before -- +and we had not gone more than a few paces when we were quite out of +it. It was now clear enough to look about us. Our tent stood at the +north-eastern corner of a tract that was full of hummocks; we could +decide beyond a doubt that this was the dreaded trap. We continued +a little way to the east until we saw our course clearly, and then +returned to camp. We did not waste much time in getting things ready +and leaving the place. It was a genuine relief to find ourselves +once more on good ground, and we resumed our journey southward at a +brisk pace.</p> + +<p>That we were not quite out of the dangerous zone was shown by a number +of small hummocks to the south of us. They extended across our course +at right angles. We could also see from some long but narrow crevasses +we crossed that we must keep a good look-out. When we came into the +vicinity of the line of hummocks that lay in our course, we stopped +and discussed our prospects. "We shall save a lot of time by going +straight on through here instead of going round," said Hanssen. I had +to admit this; but, on the other hand, the risk was much greater. "Oh, +let's try it," he went on; "if we can't do it, we can't." I was +weak, and allowed myself to be persuaded, and away we went among the +haycocks. I could see how Hanssen was enjoying himself; this was +just what he wanted. We went faster and faster. Curiously enough, +we passed several of these formations without noticing anything, +and began to hope that we should get through. Then suddenly Hanssen's +three leading dogs disappeared, and the others stopped abruptly. He +got them hauled up without much trouble and came over. We others, +who were following, crossed without accident, but our further progress +seemed doubtful, for after a few more paces the same three dogs fell +in again. We were now in exactly the same kind of place as before; +crevasses ran in every direction, like a broken pane of glass. I +had had enough, and would take no more part in this death-ride. I +announced decisively that we must turn back, follow our tracks, and +go round it all. Hanssen looked quite disappointed. "Well," he said, +"but we shall be over it directly." "I dare say we shall," I replied; +"but we must go back first." This was evidently hard on him; there +was one formation in particular that attracted him, and he wanted +to try his strength with it. It was a pressure-mass that, as far +as appearance went, might just as well have been formed out in the +drift-ice. It looked as if it was formed of four huge lumps of ice +raised on end against each other. We knew what it contained without +examination -- a yawning chasm. Hanssen cast a last regretful glance +upon it, and then turned back.</p> + +<p>We could now see all our surroundings clearly. This place lay, as +we had remarked before, in a hollow; we followed it round, and came +up the rise on the south without accident. Here we caught sight of +one of our flags; it stood to the east of us, and thus confirmed our +suspicion that we had been going too far to the west. We had one more +contact with the broken ground, having to cross some crevasses and +pass a big hole; but then it was done, and we could once more rejoice +in having solid ice beneath us. Hanssen, however, was not satisfied +till he had been to look into the hole. In the evening we reached +the two snow-huts we had built on the last trip, and we camped there, +twenty-six miles from the depot. The huts were drifted up with snow, +so we left them in peace, and as the weather was now so mild and fine, +we preferred the tent.</p> + +<p>It had been an eventful day, and we had reason to be satisfied that +we had come off so easily. The going had been good, and it had all +gone like a game. When we started the next morning it was overcast +and thick, and before we had gone very far we were in the midst +of a south-wester, with snow so thick that we could hardly see ten +sledge-lengths ahead of us. We had intended to reach the depot that +day, but if this continued, it was more than doubtful whether we +should find it. Meanwhile we put on the pace. It was a long way on, +so there was no danger of driving past it. During this while it had +remained clear in the zenith, and we had been hoping that the wind and +snow would cease; but we had no such luck -- it increased rather than +dropped. Our best sledge-meter -- one we knew we could depend on -- +was on Wisting's sledge; therefore he had to check the distance. At +1.30 p.m. he turned round to me, and pointed out that we had gone the +exact distance; I called out to Hanssen to use his eyes well. Then, at +that very moment, the depot showed up a few sledge-lengths to the left +of us, looking like a regular palace of snow in the thick air. This +was a good test both for the sledge-meter and the compass. We drove +up to it and halted. There were three important points to be picked +up on our way south, and one of them was found; we were all glad and +in good spirits.</p> + +<p>The ninety-nine miles from Framheim to this point had been covered +in four marches, and we could now rest our dogs, and give them as +much seal's flesh as they were capable of eating. Thus far the trip +had been a good one for the animals; with one exception, they were +all in the best condition. This exception was Uranus. We had never +been able to get any fat on his bones; he remained thin and scraggy, +and awaited his death at the depot, a little later, in 82º S. If +Uranus was lanky to look at, the same could not be said of Jaala, +poor beast! In spite of her condition, she struggled to keep up; +she did her utmost, but unless her dimensions were reduced before we +left 82º S., she would have to accompany Uranus to another world.</p> + +<p>The cases of provisions and outfit that we had left here on the last +trip were almost entirely snowed under, but it did not take long to +dig them out. The first thing to be done was to cut up the seals for +the dogs. These grand pieces of meat, with the blubber attached, did +not have to be thrown at the dogs; they just helped themselves as long +as there was any meat cut up, and when that was finished, they did +not hesitate to attack the "joint." It was a pleasure to see them, +as they lay all over the place, enjoying their food; it was all so +delightfully calm and peaceful, to begin with. They were all hungry, +and thought of nothing but satisfying their immediate cravings; +but when this was done there was an end of the truce. Although Hai +had only half finished his share, he must needs go up to Rap and +take away the piece he was eating. Of course, this could not happen +without a great row, which resulted in the appearance of Hanssen; then +Hai made himself scarce. He was a fine dog, but fearfully obstinate; +if he had once taken a thing into his head, it was not easy to make +him give it up. On one of our depot journeys it happened that I was +feeding Hanssen's dogs. Hai had made short work of his pemmican, and +looked round for more. Ah! there was Rap enjoying his -- that would +just do for him. In a flash Hai was upon him, forced him to give up +his dinner, and was about to convert it to his own use. Meanwhile I had +witnessed the whole scene, and before Hai knew anything about it, I was +upon him in turn. I hit him over the nose with the whip-handle, and +tried to take the pemmican from him, but it was not so easy. Neither +of us would give in, and soon we were both rolling over and over in +the snow struggling for the mastery. I came off victorious after a +pretty hot fight, and Rap got his dinner again. Any other dog would +have dropped it at once on being hit over the nose, but not Hai.</p> + +<p>It was a treat to get into the tent; the day had been a bitter +one. During the night the wind went round to the north, and all the +snow that had been blown northward by the wind of the previous day +had nothing to do but to come back again; the road was free. And +it made the utmost use of its opportunity; nothing could be seen +for driving snow when we turned out next morning. We could only +stay where we were, and console ourselves with the thought that it +made no difference, as it had been decided that we were to remain +here two days. But staying in a tent all day is never very amusing, +especially when one is compelled to keep to one's sleeping-bag the +whole time. You soon get tired of talking, and you can't write all +day long, either. Eating is a good way of passing the time, if you +can afford it, and so is reading, if you have anything to read; but +as the menu is limited, and the library as a rule somewhat deficient +on a sledging trip, these two expedients fall to the ground. There +is, however, one form of entertainment that may be indulged in under +these circumstances without scruple, and that is a good nap. Happy +the man who can sleep the clock round on days like these; but that is +a gift that is not vouchsafed to all, and those who have it will not +own up to it. I have heard men snore till I was really afraid they +would choke, but as for acknowledging that they had been asleep -- +never! Some of them even have the coolness to assert that they suffer +from sleeplessness, but it was not so bad as that with any of us.</p> + +<p>In the course of the day the wind dropped, and we went out to do some +work. We transferred the old depot to the new one. We now had here +three complete sledge-loads, for which there would be little use, +and which, therefore, were left behind. The eastern party availed +themselves of part of these supplies on their journey, but not +much. This depot is a fairly large one, and might come in useful if +anyone should think of exploring the region from King Edward Land +southward. As things were, we had no need of it. At the same time the +sledges were packed, and when evening came everything was ready for our +departure. There had really been no hurry about this, as we were going +to stay here on the following day as well; but one soon learns in these +regions that it is best to take advantage of good weather when you +have it -- you never know how long it will last. There was, however, +nothing to be said about the day that followed; we could doze and doze +as much as we liked. The work went on regularly, nevertheless. The dogs +gnawed and gnawed, storing up strength with every hour that went by.</p> + +<p>We will now take a trip out to our loaded sledges, and see what they +contain. Hanssen's stands first, bow to the south; behind it come +Wisting's, Bjaaland's and Hassel's. They all look pretty much alike, +and as regards provisions their loads are precisely similar.</p> + +<p>Case No. 1 contains about 5,300 biscuits, and weighs 111 pounds.</p> + +<p>Case No. 2: 112 rations of dogs' pemmican; 11 bags of dried milk, +chocolate, and biscuits. Total gross weight, 177 pounds.</p> + +<p>Case No. 3: 124 rations of dogs' pemmican; 10 bags of dried milk and +biscuits. Gross weight, 161 pounds.</p> + +<p>Case No. 4: 39 rations of dogs' pemmican; 86 rations of men's pemmican; +9 bags of dried milk and biscuits. Gross weight, 165 pounds.</p> + +<p>Case No. 5: 96 rations of dogs' pemmican. Weight, 122 pounds.</p> + +<p>Total net weight of provisions per sledge, 668 pounds.</p> + +<p>With the outfit and the weight of the sledge itself, the total came +to pretty nearly 880 pounds.</p> + +<p>Hanssen's sledge differed from the others, in that it had aluminium +fittings instead of steel and no sledge-meter, as it had to be free +from iron on account of the steering-compass he carried. Each of +the other three sledges had a sledge-meter and compass. We were thus +equipped with three sledge-meters and four compasses. The instruments +we carried were two sextants and three artificial horizons -- two +glass and one mercury -- a hypsometer for measuring heights, and one +aneroid. For meteorological observations, four thermometers. Also two +pairs of binoculars. We took a little travelling case of medicines +from Burroughs Wellcome and Co. Our surgical instruments were not +many: a dental forceps and -- a beard-clipper. Our sewing outfit +was extensive. We carried a small, very light tent in reserve; it +would have to be used if any of us were obliged to turn back. We also +carried two Primus lamps. Of paraffin we had a good supply: twenty-two +and a half gallons divided among three sledges. We kept it in the +usual cans, but they proved too weak; not that we lost any paraffin, +but Bjaaland had to be constantly soldering to keep them tight. We +had a good soldering outfit. Every man carried his own personal bag, +in which he kept reserve clothing, diaries and observation books. We +took a quantity of loose straps for spare ski-bindings. We had double +sleeping-bags for the first part of the time; that is to say, an +inner and an outer one. There were five watches among us, of which +three were chronometer watches.</p> + +<p>We had decided to cover the distance between 80º and 82º S. in daily +marches of seventeen miles. We could easily have done twice this, +but as it was more important to arrive than to show great speed, +we limited the distance; besides which, here between the depots we +had sufficient food to allow us to take our time. We were interested +in seeing how the dogs would manage the loaded sledges. We expected +them to do well, but not so well as they did.</p> + +<p>On October 25 we left 80º S. with a light north-westerly breeze, +clear and mild. I was now to take up my position in advance of +the sledges, and placed myself a few paces in front of Hanssen's, +with my ski pointing in the right direction. A last look behind me: +"All ready?" and away I went. I thought -- no; I didn't have time +to think. Before I knew anything about it, I was sent flying by the +dogs. In the confusion that ensued they stopped, luckily, so that +I escaped without damage, as far as that went. To tell the truth, +I was angry, but as I had sense enough to see that the situation, +already sufficiently comic, would be doubly ridiculous if I allowed +my annoyance to show itself, I wisely kept quiet. And, after all, +whose fault was it? I was really the only one to blame; why in the +world had I not got away faster? I now changed my plan entirely -- +there is nothing to be ashamed of in that, I hope -- and fell in with +the awkward squad; there I was more successful. "All ready? Go!" And +go they did. First Hanssen went off like a meteor; close behind him +came Wisting, and then Bjaaland and Hassel. They all had ski on, and +were driving with a line. I had made up my mind to follow in the rear, +as I thought the dogs would not keep this up for long, but I soon had +enough of it. We did the first six and a quarter miles in an hour. I +thought that would do for me, so I went up to Wisting, made a rope +fast to his sledge, and there I stood till we reached 85º 5' S. -- +three hundred and forty miles. Yes; that was a pleasant surprise. We +had never dreamed of anything of the sort -- driving on ski to the +Pole! Thanks to Hanssen's brilliant talents as a dog-driver, we could +easily do this. He had his dogs well in hand, and they knew their +master. They knew that the moment they failed to do their duty they +would be pulled up, and a hiding all round would follow. Of course, +as always happens, Nature occasionally got the better of discipline; +but the "confirmation" that resulted checked any repetition of such +conduct for a long while. The day's march was soon completed in this +way, and we camped early.</p> + +<p>On the following day we were already in sight of the large +pressure-ridges on the east, which we had seen for the first time +on the second depot journey between 81º and 82º S., and this showed +that the atmosphere must be very clear. We could not see any greater +number than the first time, however. From our experience of beacons +built of snow, we could see that if we built such beacons now, on +our way south, they would be splendid marks for our return journey; +we therefore decided to adopt this system of landmarks to the greatest +possible extent. We built in all 150 beacons, 6 feet high, and used in +their construction 9,000 blocks, cut out of the snow with specially +large snow-knives. In each of them was deposited a paper, giving the +number and position of the beacon, and indicating the distance and +the direction to be taken to reach the next beacon to the north. It +may appear that my prudence was exaggerated, but it always seemed +to me that one could not be too careful on this endless, uniform +surface. If we lost our way here, it would be difficult enough to +reach home. Besides which, the building of these beacons had other +advantages, which we could all see and appreciate. Every time we +stopped to build one, the dogs had a rest, and they wanted this, +if they were to keep up the pace.</p> + +<p>We erected the first beacon in 80º 23' S. To begin with, we contented +ourselves with putting them up at every thirteenth or fifteenth +kilometre. On the 29th we shot the first dog, Hanssen's Bone. He was +too old to keep up, and was only a hindrance. He was placed in depot +under a beacon, and was a great joy to us -- or rather to the dogs -- +later on.</p> + +<p>On the same day we reached the second important point -- the depot +in 81º S. Our course took us very slightly to the east of it. The +small pieces of packing-case that had been used as marks on each +side of the depot could be seen a long way off. On a subsequent +examination they showed no sign of snowfall; they stood just as +they had been put in. In the neighbourhood of the depot we crossed +two quite respectable crevasses; they were apparently filled up, and +caused us no trouble. We reached the depot at 2 p.m.; everything was +in the best of order. The flag was flying, and hardly looked as if it +had been up a day, although it had now been waving there for nearly +eight months. The drifts round the depot were about 1 1/2 feet high.</p> + +<p>The next day was brilliant -- calm and clear. The sun really baked the +skin of one's face. We put all our skin clothing out to dry; a little +rime will always form at the bottom of a sleeping-bag. We also availed +ourselves of this good opportunity to determine our position and check +our compasses; they proved to be correct. We replaced the provisions +we had consumed on the way, and resumed our journey on October 31.</p> + +<p>There was a thick fog next morning, and very disagreeable weather; +perhaps we felt it more after the previous fine day. When we passed +this way for the first time going south, Hanssen's dogs had fallen +into a crevasse, but it was nothing to speak of; otherwise we had +no trouble. Nor did we expect any this time; but in these regions +what one least expects frequently happens. The snow was loose and the +going heavy; from time to time we crossed a narrow crevasse. Once we +saw through the fog a large open hole; we could not have been very far +from it, or we should not have seen it, the weather was so thick. But +all went well till we had come thirteen and a half miles. Then Hanssen +had to cross a crevasse a yard wide, and in doing it he was unlucky +enough to catch the point of his ski in the traces of the hindmost +dogs, and fall right across the crevasse. This looked unpleasant. The +dogs were across, and a foot or two on the other side, but the sledge +was right over the crevasse, and had twisted as Hanssen fell, so that +a little more would bring it into line with the crevasse, and then, +of course, down it would go. The dogs had quickly scented the fact that +their lord and master was for the moment incapable of administering a +"confirmation," and they did not let slip the golden opportunity. Like +a lot of roaring tigers, the whole team set upon each other and fought +till the hair flew. This naturally produced short, sharp jerks at the +traces, so that the sledge worked round more and more, and at the same +time the dogs, in the heat of the combat, were coming nearer and nearer +to the brink. If this went on, all was irretrievably lost. One of us +jumped the crevasse, went into the middle of the struggling team, and, +fortunately, got them to stop. At the same time, Wisting threw a line +to Hanssen and hauled him out of his unpleasant position -- although, +I thought to myself, as we went on: I wonder whether Hanssen did not +enjoy the situation? Stretched across a giddy abyss, with the prospect +of slipping down it at any moment -- that was just what he would +like. We secured the sledge, completed our seventeen miles, and camped.</p> + +<p>From 81º S. we began to erect beacons at every nine kilometres. The +next day we observed the lowest temperature of the whole of this +journey: -30.1º F The wind was south-south-east, but not very +strong. It did not feel like summer, all the same. We now adopted the +habit which we kept up all the way to the south -- of taking our lunch +while building the beacon that lay half-way in our day's march. It +was nothing very luxurious -- three or four dry oatmeal biscuits, that +was all. If one wanted a drink, one could mix snow with the biscuit -- +"bread and water." It is a diet that is not much sought after in our +native latitudes, but latitude makes a very great difference in this +world. It anybody had offered us more "bread and water," we should +gladly have accepted it.</p> + +<p>That day we crossed the last crevasse for a long time to come, and +it was only a few inches wide. The surface looked grand ahead of us; +it went in very long, almost imperceptible undulations. We could +only notice them by the way in which the beacons we put up often +disappeared rather rapidly.</p> + +<p>On November 2 we had a gale from the south, with heavy snow. The +going was very stiff, but the dogs got the sledges along better than +we expected. The temperature rose, as usual, with a wind from this +quarter: +14º F. It was a pleasure to be out in such a temperature, +although it did blow a little. The day after we had a light breeze +from the north. The heavy going of the day before had completely +disappeared; instead of it we had the best surface one could desire, +and it made our dogs break into a brisk gallop. That was the day we +were to reach the depot in 82º S., but as it was extremely thick, +our chances of doing so were small. In the course of the afternoon +the distance was accomplished, but no depot was visible. However, +our range of vision was nothing to boast of -- ten sledge-lengths; +not more. The most sensible thing to do, under the circumstances, +was to camp and wait till it cleared.</p> + +<p>At four o'clock next morning the sun broke through. We let it get +warm and disperse the fog, and then went out. What a morning it +was -- radiantly clear and mild. So still, so still lay the mighty +desert before us, level and white on every side. But, no; there +in the distance the level was broken: there was a touch of colour +on the white. The third important point was reached, the extreme +outpost of civilization. Our last depot lay before us; that was an +unspeakable relief. The victory now seemed half won. In the fog we +had come about three and a half miles too far to the west; but we now +saw that if we had continued our march the day before, we should have +come right into our line of flags. There they stood, flag after flag, +and the little strip of black cloth seemed to wave quite proudly, +as though it claimed credit for the way in which it had discharged +its duty. Here, as at the depot in 81º S., there was hardly a sign +of snowfall. The drift round the depot had reached the same height +as there -- 1 1/2 feet. Clearly the same conditions of weather had +prevailed all over this region. The depot stood as we had made it, +and the sledge as we had left it. Falling snow and drift had not been +sufficient to cover even this. The little drift that there was offered +an excellent place for the tent, being hard and firm. We at once set +about the work that had to be done. First, Uranus was sent into the +next world, and although he had always given us the impression of +being thin and bony, it was now seen that there were masses of fat +along his back; he would be much appreciated when we reached here on +the return. Jaala did not look as if she would fulfil the conditions, +but we gave her another night. The dogs' pemmican in the depot was just +enough to give the dogs a good feed and load up the sledges again. We +were so well supplied with all other provisions that we were able to +leave a considerable quantity behind for the return journey.</p> + +<p>Next day we stayed here to give the dogs a thorough rest for the last +time. We took advantage of the fine weather to dry our outfit and +check our instruments. When evening came we were all ready, and now +we could look back with satisfaction to the good work of the autumn; +we had fully accomplished what we aimed at -- namely, transferring our +base from 78º 38' to 82º S. Jaala had to follow Uranus; they were both +laid on the top of the depot, beside eight little ones that never saw +the light of day. During our stay here we decided to build beacons +at every fifth kilometre, and to lay down depots at every degree of +latitude. Although the dogs were drawing the sledges easily at present, +we knew well enough that in the long-run they would find it hard work +if they were always to have heavy weights to pull. The more we could +get rid of, and the sooner we could begin to do so, the better.</p> + +<p>On November 6, at 8 a.m., we left 82º S. Now the unknown lay before +us; now our work began in earnest. The appearance of the Barrier was +the same everywhere -- flat, with a splendid surface. At the first +beacon we put up we had to shoot Lucy. We were sorry to put an end to +this beautiful creature, but there was nothing else to be done. Her +friends -- Karenius, Sauen, and Schwartz -- scowled up at the beacon +where she lay as they passed, but duty called, and the whip sang +dangerously near them, though they did not seem to hear it. We had +now extended our daily march to twenty-three miles; in this way we +should do a degree in three days.</p> + +<p>On the 7th we decided to stop for a day's rest. The dogs had been +picking up wonderfully every day, and were now at the top of their +condition, as far as health and training went. With the greatest ease +they covered the day's march at a pace of seven and a half kilometres +(four miles and two-thirds) an hour. As for ourselves, we never had to +move a foot; all we had to do was to let ourselves be towed. The same +evening we had to put an end to the last of our ladies -- Else. She +was Hassel's pride and the ornament of his team; but there was no +help for it. She was also placed at the top of a beacon.</p> + +<p>When we halted that evening in 82º 20' S., we saw on the south-western +horizon several heavy masses of drab-coloured cloud, such as are +usually to be seen over land. We could make out no land that evening, +however; but when we came out next morning and directed our glasses +to that quarter, the land lay there, lofty and clear in the morning +sun. We were now able to distinguish several summits, and to determine +that this was the land extending south-eastward from Beardmore Glacier +in South Victoria Land. Our course had been true south all the time; at +this spot we were about 250 miles to the east of Beardmore Glacier. Our +course would continue to be true south.</p> + +<p>The same evening -- November 8 -- we reached 83º S. by dead +reckoning. The noon altitude next day gave 83º 1' S. The depot we +built here contained provisions for five men and twelve dogs for +four days; it was made square -- 6 feet each way -- of hard, solid +blocks of snow. A large flag was placed on the top. That evening a +strange thing happened -- three dogs deserted, going northward on +our old tracks. They were Lucy's favourites, and had probably taken +it into their heads that they ought to go back and look after their +friend. It was a great loss to us all, but especially to Bjaaland; +they were all three first-rate animals, and among the best we had. He +had to borrow a dog from Hanssen's team, and if he did not go quite +so smoothly as before, he was still able to keep up.</p> + +<p>On the 10th we got a bearing of the mountain chain right down in +south by west true. Each day we drew considerably nearer the land, +and could see more and more of its details: mighty peaks, each loftier +and wilder than the last, rose to heights of 15,000 feet. What struck +us all were the bare sides that many of these mountains showed; we had +expected to see them far more covered with snow. Mount Fridtjof Nansen, +for example, had quite a blue-black look. Only quite at the summit was +it crowned by a mighty hood of ice that raised its shining top to some +15,000 feet. Farther to the south rose Mount Don Pedro Christophersen; +it was more covered with snow, but the long, gabled summit was to a +great extent bare. Still farther south Mounts Alice Wedel Jarlsberg, +Alice Gade, and Ruth Gade, came in sight; all snow-clad from peak +to base. I do not think I have ever seen a more beautiful or wilder +landscape. Even from where we were, we seemed to be able to see a +way up from several places. There lay Liv's Glacier,[1] for instance, +which would undoubtedly afford a good and even ascent, but it lay too +far to the north. It is of enormous extent, and would prove interesting +to explore. Crown Prince Olav's Mountains looked less promising, but +they also lay too far to the north. A little to the west of south lay +an apparently good way up. The mountains nearest to the Barrier did not +seem to offer any great obstruction. What one might find later, between +Mounts Pedro Christophersen and Fridtjof Nansen, was not easy to say.</p> + +<p>On the 12th we reached 84º S. On that day we made the interesting +discovery of a chain of mountains running to the east; this, as it +appeared from the spot where we were, formed a semicircle, where it +joined the mountains of South Victoria Land. This semicircle lay true +south, and our course was directed straight towards it.</p> + +<p>In the depot in 84º S. we left, besides the usual quantity of +provisions for five men and twelve dogs for four days, a can of +paraffin, holding 17 litres (about 34 gallons). We had abundance of +matches, and could therefore distribute them over all the depots. The +Barrier continued as flat as before, and the going was as good as it +could possibly be. We had thought that a day's rest would be needed by +the dogs for every degree of latitude, but this proved superfluous; +it looked as if they could no longer be tired. One or two had shown +signs of bad feet, but were now perfectly well; instead of losing +strength, the dogs seemed to become stronger and more active every +day. Now they, too, had sighted the land, and the black mass of Mount +Fridtjof Nansen seemed specially to appeal to them; Hanssen often had +hard work to keep them in the right course. Without any longer stay, +then, we left 84º S. the next day, and steered for the bay ahead.</p> + +<p>That day we went twenty-three miles in thick fog, and saw nothing +of the land. It was hard to have to travel thus blindly off an +unknown coast, but we could only hope for better weather. During the +previous night we had heard, for a change, a noise in the ice. It was +nothing very great, and sounded like scattered infantry fire -- a few +rifle-shots here and there underneath our tent; the artillery had not +come up yet. We took no notice of it, though I heard one man say in +the morning: "Blest if I didn't think I got a whack on the ear last +night." I could witness that it had not cost him his sleep, as that +night he had very nearly snored us all out of the tent. During the +forenoon we crossed a number of apparently newly-formed crevasses; +most of them only about an inch wide. There had thus been a small +local disturbance occasioned by one of the numerous small glaciers +on land. On the following night all was quiet again, and we never +afterwards heard the slightest sound.</p> + +<p>On November 14 we reached 84º 40' S. We were now rapidly +approaching land; the mountain range on the east appeared to turn +north-eastward. Our line of ascent, which we had chosen long ago +and now had our eyes fixed upon as we went, would take us a trifle +to the west of south, but so little that the digression was of no +account. The semicircle we saw to the south made a more disquieting +impression, and looked as if it would offer great irregularities. On +the following day the character of the surface began to change; +great wave-like formations seemed to roll higher and higher as they +approached the land, and in one of the troughs of these we found +the surface greatly disturbed. At some bygone time immense fissures +and chasms would have rendered its passage practically impossible, +but now they were all drifted up, and we had no difficulty in crossing.</p> + +<p>That day -- November 15 -- we reached 85º S., and camped at the top of +one of these swelling waves. The valley we were to cross next day was +fairly broad, and rose considerably on the other side. On the west, +in the direction of the nearest land, the undulation rose to such +a height that it concealed a great part of the land from us. During +the afternoon we built the usual depot, and continued our journey on +the following day. As we had seen from our camping-ground, it was +an immense undulation that we had to traverse; the ascent on the +other side felt uncomfortably warm in the powerful sun, but it was +no higher than 300 feet by the aneroid. From the top of this wave +the Barrier stretched away before us, flat at first, but we could see +disturbances of the surface in the distance. Now we are going to have +some fun in getting to land, I thought, for it seemed very natural that +the Barrier, hemmed in as it was here, would be much broken up. The +disturbances we had seen consisted of some big, old crevasses, which +were partly filled up; we avoided them easily. Now there was another +deep depression before us; with a correspondingly high rise on the +other side. We went over it capitally; the surface was absolutely +smooth, without a sign of fissure or hole anywhere. Then we shall +get them when we are on the top, I thought. It was rather stiff work +uphill, unaccustomed as we were to slopes. I stretched my neck more +and more to get a view. At last we were up; and what a sight it was +that met us! Not an irregularity, not a sign of disturbance; quietly +and evenly the ascent continued. I believe that we were then already +above land; the large crevasses that we had avoided down below probably +formed the boundary. The hypsometer gave 930 feet above the sea.</p> + +<p>We were now immediately below the ascent, and made the final decision +of trying it here. This being settled, we pitched our camp. It was +still early in the day, but we had a great deal to arrange before the +morrow. Here we should have to overhaul our whole supply of provisions, +take with us what was absolutely necessary for the remainder of the +trip, and leave the rest behind in depot. First, then, we camped, +worked out our position, fed the dogs and let them loose again, and +then went into our tent to have something to eat and go through the +provision books.</p> + +<p>We had now reached one of the most critical points of our journey. Our +plan had now to be laid so that we might not only make the ascent as +easily as possible, but also get through to the end. Our calculations +had to be made carefully, and every possibility taken into account. As +with every decision of importance, we discussed the matter jointly. The +distance we had before us, from this spot to the Pole and back, was +683 miles. Reckoning with the ascent that we saw before us, with other +unforeseen obstructions, and finally with the certain factor that +the strength of our dogs would be gradually reduced to a fraction of +what it now was, we decided to take provisions and equipment for sixty +days on the sledges, and to leave the remaining supplies -- enough for +thirty days -- and outfit in depot. We calculated, from the experience +we had had, that we ought to be able to reach this point again with +twelve dogs left. We now had forty-two dogs. Our plan was to take +all the forty-two up to the plateau; there twenty-four of them were +to be slaughtered, and the journey continued with three sledges and +eighteen dogs. Of these last eighteen, it would be necessary, in our +opinion, to slaughter six in order to bring the other twelve back to +this point. As the number of dogs grew less, the sledges would become +lighter and lighter, and when the time came for reducing their number +to twelve, we should only have two sledges left. This time again our +calculations came out approximately right; it was only in reckoning +the number of days that we made a little mistake -- we took eight +days less than the time allowed. The number of dogs agreed exactly; +we reached this point again with twelve.</p> + +<p>After the question had been well discussed and each had given his +opinion, we went out to get the repacking done. It was lucky the +weather was so fine, otherwise this taking stock of provisions might +have been a bitter piece of work. All our supplies were in such a +form that we could count them instead of weighing them. Our pemmican +was in rations of 2 kilogram (1 pound 12 ounces). The chocolate was +divided into small pieces, as chocolate always is, so that we knew what +each piece weighed. Our milk-powder was put up in bags of 102 ounces +just enough for a meal. Our biscuits possessed the same property -- +they could be counted, but this was a tedious business, as they were +rather small. On this occasion we had to count 6,000 biscuits. Our +provisions consisted only of these four kinds, and the combination +turned out right enough. We did not suffer from a craving either for +fat or sugar, though the want of these substances is very commonly +felt on such journeys as ours. In our biscuits we had an excellent +product, consisting of oatmeal, sugar, and dried milk. Sweetmeats, +jam, fruit, cheese, etc., we had left behind at Framheim.</p> + +<p>We took our reindeer-skin clothing, for which we had had no use as yet, +on the sledges. We were now coming on to the high ground, and it might +easily happen that it would be a good thing to have. We did not forget +the temperature of -40º F. that Shackleton had experienced in 88º S., +and if we met with the same, we could hold out a long while if we had +the skin clothing. Otherwise, we had not very much in our bags. The +only change we had with us was put on here, and the old clothes hung +out to air. We reckoned that by the time we came back, in a couple +of months, they would be sufficiently aired, and we could put them +on again. As far as I remember, the calculation proved correct. We +took more foot-gear than anything else: if one's feet are well shod, +one can hold out a long time.</p> + +<p>When all this was finished, three of us put on our ski and made +for the nearest visible land. This was a little peak, a mile and +three-quarters away -- Mount Betty. It did not look lofty or imposing, +but was, nevertheless, 1,000 feet above the sea. Small as it was, +it became important to us, as it was there we got all our geological +specimens. Running on ski felt quite strange, although I had now +covered 385 miles on them; but we had driven the whole way, and were +somewhat out of training. We could feel this, too, as we went up +the slope that afternoon. After Mount Betty the ascent became rather +steep, but the surface was even, and the going splendid, so we got on +fast. First we came up a smooth mountain-side, about 1,200 feet above +the sea, then over a little plateau; after that another smooth slope +like the first, and then down a rather long, flat stretch, which +after a time began to rise very gradually, until it finally passed +into small glacier formations. Our reconnaissance extended to these +small glaciers. We had ascertained that the way was practicable, +as far as we were able to see; we had gone about five and a half +miles from the tent, and ascended 2,000 feet. On the way back we went +gloriously; the last two slopes down to the Barrier gave us all the +speed we wanted. Bjaaland and I had decided to take a turn round by +Mount Betty for the sake of having real bare ground under our feet; +we had not felt it since Madeira in September, 1910, and now we were +in November, 1911. No sooner said than done. Bjaaland prepared for +an elegant "Telemark swing," and executed it in fine style. What I +prepared to do, I am still not quite sure. What I did was to roll over, +and I did it with great effect. I was very soon on my feet again, +and glanced at Bjaaland; whether he had seen my tumble, I am not +certain. However, I pulled myself together after this unfortunate +performance, and remarked casually that it is not so easy to forget +what one has once learnt. No doubt he thought that I had managed the +"Telemark swing"; at any rate, he was polite enough to let me think so.</p> + +<p>Mount Betty offered no perpendicular crags or deep precipices to +stimulate our desire for climbing; we only had to take off our ski, +and then we arrived at the top. It consisted of loose screes, and +was not an ideal promenade for people who had to be careful of their +boots. It was a pleasure to set one's foot on bare ground again, +and we sat down on the rocks to enjoy the scene. The rocks very soon +made themselves felt, however, and brought us to our feet again. We +photographed each other in "picturesque attitudes," took a few stones +for those who had not yet set foot on bare earth, and strapped on our +ski. The dogs, after having been so eager to make for bare land when +they first saw it, were now not the least interested in it; they lay on +the snow, and did not go near the top. Between the bare ground and the +snow surface there was bright, blue-green ice, showing that at times +there was running water here. The dogs did what they could to keep +up with us on the way down, but they were soon left behind. On our +return, we surprised our comrades with presents from the country, but +I fear they were not greatly appreciated. I could hear such words as, +"Norway-stones -- heaps of them," and I was able to put them together +and understand what was meant. The "presents" were put in depot, +as not absolutely indispensable on the southern journey.</p> + +<p>By this time the dogs had already begun to be very +voracious. Everything that came in their way disappeared; whips, +ski-bindings, lashings, etc., were regarded as delicacies. If one +put down anything for a moment, it vanished. With some of them this +voracity went so far that we had to chain them.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XI: <a name="xi"></a> +Through the Mountains</h2> + +<p>On the following day -- November 17 -- we began the ascent. To provide +for any contingency, I left in the depot a paper with information of +the way we intended to take through the mountains, together with our +plan for the future, our outfit, provisions, etc. The weather was fine, +as usual, and the going good. The dogs exceeded our expectations; +they negotiated the two fairly steep slopes at a jog-trot. We began +to think there was no difficulty they could not surmount; the five +miles or so that we had gone the day before, and imagined would be +more than enough for this day's journey, were now covered with full +loads in shorter time. The small glaciers higher up turned out fairly +steep, and in some places we had to take two sledges at a time with +double teams. These glaciers had an appearance of being very old, +and of having entirely ceased to move. There were no new crevasses to +be seen; those that there were, were large and wide, but their edges +were rounded off everywhere, and the crevasses themselves were almost +entirely filled with snow. So as not to fall into these on the return, +we erected our beacons in such a way that the line between any two +of them would take us clear of any danger. It was no use working in +Polar clothing among these hills; the sun, which stood high and clear, +was uncomfortably warm, and we were obliged to take off most of our +things. We passed several summits from 3,000 to 7,000 feet high; +the snow on one of them had quite a reddish-brown tint.</p> + +<p>Our distance this first day was eleven and a half miles, with a rise of +2,000 feet. Our camp that evening lay on a little glacier among huge +crevasses; on three sides of us were towering summits. When we had +set our tent, two parties went out to explore the way in advance. One +party -- Wisting and Hanssen -- took the way that looked easiest from +the tent -- namely, the course of the glacier; it here rose rapidly +to 4,000 feet, and disappeared in a south-westerly direction between +two peaks. Bjaaland formed the other party. He evidently looked upon +this ascent as too tame, and started up the steepest part of the +mountain -- side. I saw him disappear up aloft like a fly. Hassel +and I attended to the necessary work round about and in the tent.</p> + +<p>We were sitting inside chatting, when we suddenly heard someone come +swishing down towards the tent. We looked at each other; that fellow +had some pace on. We had no doubt as to who it was -- Bjaaland, of +course. He must have gone off to refresh old memories. He had a lot +to tell us; amongst other things, he had found "the finest descent" +on the other side. What he meant by "fine" I was not certain. If it +was as fine as the ascent he had made, then I asked to be excused. We +now heard the others coming, and these we could hear a long way +off. They had also seen a great deal, not to mention "the finest +descent." But both parties agreed in the mournful intelligence that +we should have to go down again. They had both observed the immense +glacier that stretched beneath us running east and west. A lengthy +discussion took place between the two parties, who mutually scorned +each other's "discoveries." "Yes; but look here, Bjaaland, we could +see that from where you were standing there's a sheer drop -- " -- +"You couldn't see me at all. I tell you I was to the west of the peak +that lies to the south of the peak that" I gave up trying to follow +the discussion any longer. The way in which the different parties had +disappeared and come in sight again gave me every reason to decide +in favour of the route the last arrivals had taken. I thanked these +keen gentlemen for their strenuous ramble in the interests of the +expedition, and went straight off to sleep. I dreamed of mountains +and precipices all night, and woke up with Bjaaland whizzing down +from the sky. I announced once more that I had made up my mind for +the other course, and went to sleep again.</p> + +<p>We debated next morning whether it would not be better to take the +sledges two by two to begin with; the glacier before us looked quite +steep enough to require double teams. It had a rise of 2,000 feet +in quite a short distance. But we would try first with the single +teams. The dogs had shown that their capabilities were far above +our expectation; perhaps they would be able to do even this. We +crept off: The ascent began at once -- good exercise after a quart +of chocolate. We did not get on fast, but we won our way. It often +looked as if the sledge would stop, but a shout from the driver and +a sharp crack of the whip kept the dogs on the move. It was a fine +beginning to the day, and we gave them a well-deserved rest when we +got up. We then drove in through the narrow pass and out on the other +side. It was a magnificent panorama that opened before us. From the +pass we had come out on to a very small flat terrace, which a few +yards farther on began to drop steeply to a long valley. Round about +us lay summit after summit on every side. We had now come behind the +scenes, and could get our bearings better. We now saw the southern +side of the immense Mount Nansen; Don Pedro Christophersen we could +see in his full length. Between these two mountains we could follow +the course of a glacier that rose in terraces along their sides. It +looked fearfully broken and disturbed, but we could follow a little +connected line among the many crevasses; we saw that we could go a +long way, but we also saw that the glacier forbade us to use it in +its full extent. Between the first and second terraces the ice was +evidently impassable. But we could see that there was an unbroken +ledge up on the side of the mountain; Don Pedro would help us out. On +the north along the Nansen Mountain there was nothing but chaos, +perfectly impossible to get through. We put up a big beacon where we +were standing, and took bearings from it all round the compass.</p> + +<p>I went back to the pass to look out over the Barrier for the +last time. The new mountain chain lay there sharp and clear; we +could see how it turned from the east up to east-north-east, and +finally disappeared in the north-east -- as we judged, about 84º +S. From the look of the sky, it appeared that the chain was continued +farther. According to the aneroid, the height of the terrace on which +we stood was 4,000 feet above the sea. From here there was only one +way down, and we began to go. In making these descents with loaded +sledges, one has to use the greatest care, lest the speed increase +to such a degree that one loses command over the sledge. If this +happens, there is a danger, not only of running over the dogs, but of +colliding with the sledge in front and smashing it. This was all the +more important in our case, as the sledges carried sledge-meters. We +therefore put brakes of rope under our runners when we were to go +downhill. This was done very simply by taking a few turns with a thin +piece of rope round each runner; the more of these turns one took, +the more powerful, of course, was the brake. The art consisted in +choosing the right number of turns, or the right brake; this was not +always attained, and the consequence was that, before we had come +to the end of these descents, there were several collisions. One +of the drivers, in particular, seemed to have a supreme contempt +for a proper brake; he would rush down like a flash of lightning, +and carry the man in front with him. With practice we avoided this, +but several times things had an ugly look.</p> + +<p>The first drop took us down 800 feet; then we had to cross a wide, +stiff piece of valley before the ascent began again. The snow between +the mountains was loose and deep, and gave the dogs hard work. The next +ascent was up very steep glaciers, the last of which was the steepest +bit of climbing we had on the whole journey -- stiff work even for +double teams. Going in front of the dogs up these slopes was, I could +see, a business that Bjaaland would accomplish far more satisfactorily +than I, and I gave up the place to him. The first glacier was steep, +but the second was like the side of a house. It was a pleasure to watch +Bjaaland use his ski up there; one could see that he had been up a hill +before. Nor was it less interesting to see the dogs and the drivers go +up. Hanssen drove one sledge alone; Wisting and Hassel the other. They +went by jerks, foot by foot, and ended by reaching the top. The second +relay went somewhat more easily in the tracks made by the first.</p> + +<p>Our height here was 4,550 feet, the last ascent having brought us +up 1,250 feet; we had arrived on a plateau, and after the dogs had +rested we continued our march. Now, as we advanced, we had a better +view of the way we were going; before this the nearest mountains had +shut us in. The mighty glacier opened out before us, stretching, as we +could now see, right up from the Barrier between the lofty mountains +running east and west. It was by this glacier that we should have to +gain the plateau; we could see that. We had one more descent to make +before reaching it, and from above we could distinguish the edges +of some big gaps in this descent, and found it prudent to examine it +first. As we thought, there was a side-glacier coming down into it, +with large, ugly crevasses in many places; but it was not so bad as +to prevent our finally reaching, with caution and using good brakes, +the great main ice-field -- Axel Heiberg Glacier. The plan we had +proposed to ourselves was to work our way up to the place where the +glacier rose in abrupt masses between the two mountains. The task +we had undertaken was greater than we thought. In the first place, +the distance was three times as great as any of us had believed; +and, in the second place, the snow was so loose and deep that it was +hard work for the dogs after all their previous efforts. We set our +course along the white line that we had been able to follow among +the numerous crevasses right up to the first terrace. Here tributary +glaciers came down on all sides from the mountains and joined the main +one; it was one of these many small arms that we reached that evening, +directly under Don Pedro Christophersen.</p> + +<p>The mountain below which we had our camp was covered with a chaos of +immense blocks of ice. The glacier on which we were was much broken +up, but, as with all the others, the fissures were of old date, and, +to a large extent, drifted up. The snow was so loose that we had to +trample a place for the tent, and we could push the tent-pole right +down without meeting resistance; probably it would be better higher +up. In the evening Hanssen and Bjaaland went out to reconnoitre, and +found the conditions as we had seen them from a distance. The way up +to the first terrace was easily accessible; what the conditions would +be like between this and the second terrace we had still to discover.</p> + +<p>It was stiff work next day getting up to the first terrace. The arm +of the glacier that led up was not very long, but extremely steep +and full of big crevasses; it had to be taken in relays, two sledges +at a time. The state of the going was, fortunately, better than on +the previous day, and the surface of the glacier was fine and hard, +so that the dogs got a splendid hold. Bjaaland went in advance up +through this steep glacier, and had his work cut out to keep ahead of +the eager animals. One would never have thought we were between 85º +and 86º S.; the heat was positively disagreeable, and, although lightly +clad, we sweated as if we were running races in the tropics. We were +ascending rapidly, but, in spite of the sudden change of pressure, +we did not yet experience any difficulty of breathing, headache, +or other unpleasant results. That these sensations would make their +appearance in due course was, however, a matter of which we could +be certain. Shackleton's description of his march on the plateau, +when headache of the most violent and unpleasant kind was the order +of the day, was fresh in the memory of all of us.</p> + +<p>In a comparatively short time we reached the ledge in the glacier +that we had noticed a long way off; it was not quite flat, but sloped +slightly towards the edge. When we came to the place to which Hanssen +and Bjaaland had carried their reconnaissance on the previous evening, +we had a very fine prospect of the further course of the glacier. To +continue along it was an impossibility; it consisted here -- between +the two vast mountains -- of nothing but crevasse after crevasse, +so huge and ugly that we were forced to conclude that our further +advance that way was barred. Over by Fridtjof Nansen we could not +go; this mountain here rose perpendicularly, in parts quite bare, +and formed with the glacier a surface so wild and cut up that +all thoughts of crossing the ice-field in that direction had to be +instantly abandoned. Our only chance lay in the direction of Don Pedro +Christophersen; here, so far as we could see, the connection of the +glacier and the land offered possibilities of further progress. Without +interruption the glacier was merged in the snow-clad mountain-side, +which rose rapidly towards the partially bare summit. Our view, +however, did not extend very far. The first part of the mountain-side +was soon bounded by a lofty ridge running east and west, in which +we could see huge gaps here and there. From the place where we were +standing, we had the impression that we should be able to continue our +course up there under the ridge between these gaps, and thus come out +beyond the disturbed tract of glacier. We might possibly succeed in +this, but we could not be certain until we were up on the ridge itself.</p> + +<p>We took a little rest -- it was not a long one -- and then started. We +were impatient to see whether we could get forward up above. There +could be no question of reaching the height without double teams; +first we had to get Hanssen's and Wisting's sledges up, and then +the two others. We were not particularly keen on thus covering the +ground twice, but the conditions made it imperative. We should have +been pleased just then if we had known that this was to be the last +ascent that would require double teams; but we did not know this, +and it was more than any of us dared to hope. The same hard work, and +the same trouble to keep the dogs at an even pace, and then we were +up under the ridge amongst the open chasms. To go farther without a +careful examination of the ground was not to be thought of. Doubtless, +our day's march had not been a particularly long one, but the piece +we had covered had indeed been fatiguing enough. We therefore camped, +and set our tent at an altitude of 5,650 feet above the sea.</p> + +<p>We at once proceeded to reconnoitre, and the first thing to be +examined was the way we had seen from below. This led in the right +direction -- that is, in the direction of the glacier, east and west +-- and was thus the shortest. But it is not always the shortest way +that is the best; here, in any case, it was to be hoped that another +and longer one would offer better conditions. The shortest way was +awful -- possibly not altogether impracticable, if no better was to +be found. First we had to work our way across a hard, smooth slope, +which formed an angle of 45 degrees, and ended in a huge, bottomless +chasm. It was no great pleasure to cross over here on ski, but with +heavily-laden sledges the enjoyment would be still less. The prospect +of seeing sledge, driver, and dogs slide down sideways and disappear +into the abyss was a great one. We got across with whole skins on +ski, and continued our exploration. The mountain-side along which +we were advancing gradually narrowed between vast fissures above and +vaster fissures below, and finally passed by a very narrow bridge -- +hardly broader than the sledges -- into the glacier. On each side of +the bridge, one looked down into a deep blue chasm. To cross here did +not look very inviting; no doubt we could take the dogs out and haul +the sledges over, and thus manage it -- presuming the bridge held -- +but our further progress, which would have to be made on the glacier, +would apparently offer many surprises of an unpleasant kind. It was +quite possible that, with time and patience, one would be able to +tack through the apparently endless succession of deep crevasses; +but we should first have to see whether something better than this +could not be found in another direction. We therefore returned to camp.</p> + +<p>Here in the meantime everything had been put in order, the tent set +up, and the dogs fed. Now came the great question: What was there on +the other side of the ridge? Was it the same desperate confusion, +or would the ground offer better facilities? Three of us went off +to see. Excitement rose as we neared the saddle; so much depended on +finding a reasonable way. One more pull and we were up; it was worth +the trouble. The first glance showed us that this was the way we had to +go. The mountain-side ran smooth and even under the lofty summit-like a +gabled church tower -- of Mount Don Pedro Christophersen, and followed +the direction of the glacier. We could see the place where this long, +even surface united with the glacier; to all appearance it was free +from disturbance. We saw some crevasses, of course, but they were far +apart, and did not give us the idea that they would be a hindrance. But +we were still too far from the spot to be able to draw any certain +conclusions as to the character of the ground; we therefore set off +towards the bottom to examine the conditions more closely. The surface +was loose up here, and the snow fairly deep; our ski slipped over it +well, but it would be heavy for dogs. We advanced rapidly, and soon +came to the huge crevasses. They were big enough and deep enough, but +so scattered that, without much trouble, we could find a way between +them. The hollow between the two mountains, which was filled by the +Heiberg Glacier, grew narrower and narrower towards the end, and, +although appearances were still very pleasant, I expected to find some +disturbance when we arrived at the point where the mountain-side passed +into the glacier. But my fears proved groundless; by keeping right +under Don Pedro we went clear of all trouble, and in a short time, +to our great joy, we found ourselves above and beyond that chaotic +part of the Heiberg Glacier which had completely barred our progress.</p> + +<p>Up here all was strangely peaceful; the mountain-side and the glacier +united in a great flat terrace -- a plain, one might call it -- +without disturbance of any kind. We could see depressions in the +surface where the huge crevasses had formerly existed, but now they +were entirely filled up, and formed one with the surrounding level. We +could now see right to the end of this mighty glacier, and form some +idea of its proportions. Mount Wilhelm Christophersen and Mount Ole +Engelstad formed the end of it; these two beehive-shaped summits, +entirely covered with snow, towered high into the sky. We understood +now that the last of the ascent was before us, and that what we saw +in the distance between these two mountains was the great plateau +itself. The question, then, was to find a way up, and to conquer +this last obstruction in the easiest manner. In the radiantly clear +air we could see the smallest details with our excellent prismatic +glasses, and make our calculations with great confidence. It would +be possible to clamber up Don Pedro himself; we had done things as +difficult before. But here the side of the mountain was fairly steep, +and full of big crevasses and a fearful quantity of gigantic blocks +of ice. Between Don Pedro and Wilhelm Christophersen an arm of the +glacier went up on to the plateau, but it was so disturbed and broken +up that it could not be used. Between Wilhelm Christophersen and Ole +Engelstad there was no means of getting through. Between Ole Engelstad +and Fridtjof Nansen, on the other hand, it looked more promising, +but as yet the first of these mountains obstructed our view so much +that we could not decide with certainty. We were all three rather +tired, but agreed to continue our excursion, and find out what was +here concealed. Our work to-day would make our progress to-morrow so +much the easier. We therefore went on, and laid our course straight +over the topmost flat terrace of the Heiberg Glacier. As we advanced, +the ground between Nansen and Engelstad opened out more and more, and +without going any farther we were able to decide from the formations +that here we should undoubtedly find the best way up. If the final +ascent at the end of the glacier, which was only partly visible, +should present difficulties, we could make out from where we stood +that it would be possible, without any great trouble, to work our way +over the upper end of the Nansen Mountain itself, which here passed +into the plateau by a not too difficult glacier. Yes, now we were +certain that it was indeed the great plateau and nothing else that we +saw before us. In the pass between the two mountains, and some little +distance within the plateau, Helland Hansen showed up, a very curious +peak to look at. It seemed to stick its nose up through the plateau, +and no more; its shape was long, and it reminded one of nothing so +much as the ridge of a roof. Although this peak was thus only just +visible, it stood 11,000 feet above the sea.</p> + +<p>After we had examined the conditions here, and found out that on +the following day -- if the weather permitted -- we should reach the +plateau, we turned back, well satisfied with the result of our trip. We +all agreed that we were tired, and longing to reach camp and get some +food. The place where we turned was, according to the aneroid, 8,000 +feet above the sea; we were therefore 2,500 feet higher than our tent +down on the hill-side. Going down in our old tracks was easier work, +though the return journey was somewhat monotonous. In many places the +slope was rapid, and not a few fine runs were made. On approaching +our camping-ground we had the sharpest descent, and here, reluctant +as we might be, we found it wiser to put both our poles together and +form a strong brake. We came down smartly enough, all the same. It +was a grand and imposing sight we had when we came out on the ridge +under which -- far below -- our tent stood. Surrounded on all sides by +huge crevasses and gaping chasms, it could not be said that the site +of our camp looked very inviting. The wildness of the landscape seen +from this point is not to be described; chasm after chasm, crevasse +after crevasse, with great blocks of ice scattered promiscuously about, +gave one the impression that here Nature was too powerful for us. Here +no progress was to be thought of.</p> + +<p>It was not without a certain satisfaction that we stood there and +contemplated the scene. The little dark speck down there -- our +tent -- in the midst of this chaos, gave us a feeling of strength +and power. We knew in our hearts that the ground would have to be +ugly indeed if we were not to manoeuvre our way across it and find a +place for that little home of ours. Crash upon crash, roar upon roar, +met our ears. Now it was a shot from Mount Nansen, now from one of the +others; we could see the clouds of snow rise high into the air. It was +evident that these mountains were throwing off their winter mantles +and putting on a more spring-like garb.</p> + +<p>We came at a tearing pace down to the tent, where our companions had +everything in most perfect order. The dogs lay snoring in the heat +of the sun, and hardly condescended to move when we came scudding +in among them. Inside the tent a regular tropical heat prevailed; +the sun was shining directly on to the red cloth and warming it. The +Primus hummed and hissed, and the pemmican-pot bubbled and spurted. We +desired nothing better in the world than to get in, fling ourselves +down, eat, and drink. The news we brought was no trifling matter -- +the plateau to-morrow. It sounded almost too good to be true; we +had reckoned that it would take us ten days to get up, and now we +should do it in four. In this way we saved a great deal of dog food, +as we should be able to slaughter the superfluous animals six days +earlier than we had calculated. It was quite a little feast that +evening in the tent; not that we had any more to eat than usual -- +we could not allow ourselves that -- but the thought of the fresh +dog cutlets that awaited us when we got to the top made our mouths +water. In course of time we had so habituated ourselves to the idea +of the approaching slaughter that this event did not appear to us +so horrible as it would otherwise have done. Judgment had already +been pronounced, and the selection made of those who were worthy of +prolonged life and those who were to be sacrificed. This had been, +I may add, a difficult problem to solve, so efficient were they all.</p> + +<p>The rumblings continued all night, and one avalanche after another +exposed parts of the mountain-sides that had been concealed from +time immemorial. The following day, November 20, we were up and away +at the usual time, about 8 a.m. The weather was splendid, calm and +clear. Getting up over the saddle was a rough beginning of the day +for our dogs, and they gave a good account of themselves, pulling +the sledges up with single teams this time. The going was heavy, +as on the preceding day, and our advance through the loose snow was +not rapid. We did not follow our tracks of the day before, but laid +our course directly for the place where we had decided to attempt the +ascent. As we approached Mount Ole Engelstad, under which we had to +pass in order to come into the arm of the glacier between it and Mount +Nansen, our excitement began to rise. What does the end look like? Does +the glacier go smoothly on into the plateau, or is it broken up and +impassable? We rounded Mount Engelstad more and more; wider and wider +grew the opening. The surface looked extremely good as it gradually +came into view, and it did not seem as though our assumption of the +previous day would be put to shame. At last the whole landscape opened +out, and without obstruction of any kind whatever the last part of the +ascent lay before us. It was both long and steep from the look of it, +and we agreed to take a little rest before beginning the final attack.</p> + +<p>We stopped right under Mount Engelstad in a warm and sunny place, +and allowed ourselves on this occasion a little lunch, an indulgence +that had not hitherto been permitted. The cooking-case was taken out, +and soon the Primus was humming in a way that told us it would not +be long before the chocolate was ready. It was a heavenly treat, that +drink. We had all walked ourselves warm, and our throats were as dry +as tinder. The contents of the pot were served round by the cook -- +Hanssen. It was no use asking him to share alike; he could not be +persuaded to take more than half of what was due to him -- the rest he +had to divide among his comrades. The drink he had prepared this time +was what he called chocolate, but I had some difficulty in believing +him. He was economical, was Hanssen, and permitted no extravagance; +that could be seen very well by his chocolate. Well, after all, to +people who were accustomed to regard "bread and water" as a luxury, +it tasted, as I have said, heavenly. It was the liquid part of the +lunch that was served extra; if anyone wanted something to eat, he +had to provide it himself -- nothing was offered him. Happy was he +who had saved some biscuits from his breakfast! Our halt was not a +very long one. It is a queer thing that, when one only has on light +underclothing and windproof overalls, one cannot stand still for long +without feeling cold. Although the temperature was no lower than -4º +F., we were glad to be on the move again. The last ascent was fairly +hard work, especially the first half of it. We never expected to +do it with single teams, but tried it all the same. For this last +pull up I must give the highest praise both to the dogs and their +drivers; it was a brilliant performance on both sides. I can still +see the situation clearly before me. The dogs seemed positively +to understand that this was the last big effort that was asked of +them; they lay flat down and hauled, dug their claws in and dragged +themselves forward. But they had to stop and get breath pretty often, +and then the driver's strength was put to the test. It is no child's +play to set a heavily-laden sledge in motion time after time. How they +toiled, men and beasts, up that slope! But they got on, inch by inch, +until the steepest part was behind them. Before them lay the rest +of the ascent in a gentle rise, up which they could drive without a +stop. It was stiff, nevertheless, and it took a long time before we +were all up on the plateau on the southern side of Mount Engelstad.</p> + +<p>We were very curious and anxious to see what the plateau +looked. like. We had expected a great, level plain, +extending boundlessly towards the south; but in this we were +disappointed. Towards the south-west it looked very level and fine, +but that was not the way we had to go. Towards the south the ground +continued to rise in long ridges running east and west, probably a +continuation of the mountain chain running to the south-east, or a +connection between it and the plateau. We stubbornly continued our +march; we would not give in until we had the plain itself before +us. Our hope was that the ridge projecting from Mount Don Pedro +Christophersen would be the last; we now had it before us. The +going changed at once up here; the loose snow disappeared, and a few +wind-waves (sastrugi) began to show themselves. These were specially +unpleasant to deal with on this last ridge; they lay from south-east +to north-west, and were as hard as flints and as sharp as knives. A +fall among them might have had very serious consequences. One would +have thought the dogs had had enough work that day to tire them, +but this last ridge, with its unpleasant snow-waves, did not seem +to trouble them in the least. We all drove up gaily, towed by the +sledges, on to what looked to us like the final plateau, and halted +at 8 p.m. The weather had held fine, and we could apparently see +a very long way. In the far distance, extending to the north-west, +rose peak after peak; this was the chain of mountains running to the +south-east, which we now saw from the other side. In our own vicinity, +on the other band, we saw nothing but the backs of the mountains so +frequently mentioned. We afterwards learned how deceptive the light +can be. I consulted the aneroid immediately on our arrival at the +camping-ground, and it showed 10,920 feet above the sea, which the +hypsometer afterwards confirmed. All the sledge-meters gave seventeen +geographical miles, or thirty-one kilometres (nineteen and a quarter +statute miles). This day's work -- nineteen and a quarter miles, +with an ascent of 5,750 feet -- gives us some idea of what can be +performed by dogs in good training. Our sledges still had what might +be considered heavy loads; it seems superfluous to give the animals +any other testimonial than the bare fact.</p> + +<p>It was difficult to find a place for the tent, so hard was the snow +up here. We found one, however, and set the tent. Sleeping-bags +and kit-bags were handed in to me, as usual, through the tent-door, +and I arranged everything inside. The cooking-case and the necessary +provisions for that evening and the next morning were also passed in; +but the part of my work that went more quickly than usual that night +was getting the Primus started, and pumping it up to high-pressure. I +was hoping thereby to produce enough noise to deaden the shots that I +knew would soon be heard -- twenty-four of our brave companions and +faithful helpers were marked out for death. It was hard -- but it +had to be so. We had agreed to shrink from nothing in order to reach +our goal. Each man was to kill his own dogs to the number that had +been fixed.</p> + +<p>The pemmican was cooked remarkably quickly that evening, and I believe +I was unusually industrious in stirring it. There went the first shot +-- I am not a nervous man, but I must admit that I gave a start. Shot +now followed upon shot -- they had an uncanny sound over the great +plain. A trusty servant lost his life each time. It was long before +the first man reported that he had finished; they were all to open +their dogs, and take out the entrails to prevent the meat being +contaminated. The entrails were for the most part devoured warm on +the spot by the victims' comrades, so voracious were they all. Suggen, +one of Wisting's dogs, was especially eager for warm entrails; after +enjoying this luxury, he could be seen staggering about in a quite +misshapen condition. Many of the dogs would not touch them at first, +but their appetite came after a while.</p> + +<p>The holiday humour that ought to have prevailed in the tent that +evening -- our first on the plateau -- did not make its appearance; +there was depression and sadness in the air -- we had grown so fond +of our dogs. The place was named the "Butcher's Shop." It had been +arranged that we should stop here two days to rest and eat dog. There +was more than one among us who at first would not hear of taking any +part in this feast; but as time went by, and appetites became sharper, +this view underwent a change, until, during the last few days before +reaching the Butcher's Shop, we all thought and talked of nothing +but dog cutlets, dog steaks, and the like. But on this first evening +we put a restraint on ourselves; we thought we could not fall upon +our four-footed friends and devour them before they had had time to +grow cold.</p> + +<p>We quickly found out that the Butcher's Shop was not a hospitable +locality. During the night the temperature sank, and violent gusts +of wind swept over the plain; they shook and tore at the tent, but +it would take more than that to get a hold of it. The dogs spent the +night in eating; we could hear the crunching and grinding of their +teeth whenever we were awake for a moment. The effect of the great and +sudden change of altitude made itself felt at once; when I wanted to +turn round in my bag, I had to do it a bit at a time, so as not to +get out of breath. That my comrades were affected in the same way, +I knew without asking them; my ears told me enough.</p> + +<p>It was calm when we turned out, but the weather did not look +altogether promising; it was overcast and threatening. We occupied +the forenoon in flaying a number of dogs. As I have said, all the +survivors were not yet in a mood for dog's flesh, and it therefore +had to be served in the most enticing form. When flayed and cut up, +it went down readily all along the line; even the most fastidious +then overcame their scruples. But with the skin on we should not +have been able to persuade them all to eat that morning; probably +this distaste was due to the smell clinging to the skins, and I must +admit that it was not appetizing. The meat itself, as it lay there +cut up, looked well enough, in all conscience; no butcher's shop +could have exhibited a finer sight than we showed after flaying and +cutting up ten dogs. Great masses of beautiful fresh, red meat, with +quantities of the most tempting fat, lay spread over the snow. The +dogs went round and sniffed at it. Some helped themselves to a piece; +others were digesting. We men had picked out what we thought was +the youngest and tenderest one for ourselves. The whole arrangement +was left to Wisting, both the selection and the preparation of the +cutlets. His choice fell upon Rex, a beautiful little animal -- one +of his own dogs, by the way. With the skill of an expert, he hacked +and cut away what he considered would be sufficient for a meal. I +could not take my eyes off his work; the delicate little cutlets +had an absolutely hypnotizing effect as they were spread out one by +one over the snow. They recalled memories of old days, when no doubt +a dog cutlet would have been less tempting than now -- memories of +dishes on which the cutlets were elegantly arranged side by side, +with paper frills on the bones, and a neat pile of petits pois in +the middle. Ah, my thoughts wandered still farther afield -- but that +does not concern us now, nor has it anything to do with the South Pole.</p> + +<p>I was aroused from my musings by Wisting digging his axe into the +snow as a sign that his work was done, after which he picked up the +cutlets, and went into the tent. The clouds had dispersed somewhat, +and from time to time the sun appeared, though not in its most genial +aspect. We succeeded in catching it just in time to get our latitude +determined -- 85º 36' S. We were lucky, as not long after the wind got +up from the east-south-east, and, before we knew what was happening, +everything was in a cloud of snow. But now we snapped our fingers +at the weather; what difference did it make to us if the wind howled +in the guy-ropes and the snow drifted? We had, in any case, made up +our minds to stay here for a while, and we had food in abundance. We +knew the dogs thought much the same so long as we have enough to eat, +let the weather go hang. Inside the tent Wisting was getting on well +when we came in after making these observations. The pot was on, +and, to judge by the savoury smell, the preparations were already far +advanced. The cutlets were not fried; we had neither frying-pan nor +butter. We could, no doubt, have got some lard out of the pemmican, +and we might have contrived some sort of a pan, so that we could +have fried them if it had been necessary; but we found it far easier +and quicker to boil them, and in this way we got excellent soup into +the bargain. Wisting knew his business surprisingly well; he had put +into the soup all those parts of the pemmican that contained most +vegetables, and now he served us the finest fresh meat soup with +vegetables in it. The clou of the repast was the dish of cutlets. If +we had entertained the slightest doubt of the quality of the meat, +this vanished instantly on the first trial. The meat was excellent, +quite excellent, and one cutlet after another disappeared with +lightning-like rapidity. I must admit that they would have lost +nothing by being a little more tender, but one must not expect too +much of a dog. At this first meal I finished five cutlets myself, +and looked in vain in the pot for more. Wisting appeared not to have +reckoned on such a brisk demand.</p> + +<p>We employed the afternoon in going through our stock of provisions, and +dividing the whole of it among three sledges; the fourth -- Hassel's -- +was to be left behind. The provisions were thus divided. Sledge No.1 +(Wisting's) contained</p> + +<p>Biscuits, 3,700 (daily ration, 40 biscuits per man).</p> + +<p>Dogs' pemmican, 277 3/4 pounds (1/2 kilogram, or 1 pound 1 1/2 ounces +per dog per day).</p> + +<p>Men's pemmican, 59 1/2 pounds (350 grams, or 12.34 ounces per man +per day).</p> + +<p>Chocolate, 12 3/4 pounds (40 grams, or 1.4 ounces per man per day).</p> + +<p>Milk-powder, 13 1/4 pounds (60 grams, or 2.1 ounces per man per day).</p> + +<p>The other two sledges had approximately the same supplies, and thus +permitted us on leaving this place to extend our march over a period +of sixty days with full rations. Our eighteen surviving dogs were +divided into three teams, six in each. According to our calculation, +we ought to be able to reach the Pole from here with these eighteen, +and to leave it again with sixteen. Hassel, who was to leave his +sledge at this point, thus concluded his provision account, and the +divided provisions were entered in the books of the three others.</p> + +<p>All this, then, was done that day on paper. It remained to make the +actual transfer of provisions later, when the weather permitted. To +go out and do it that afternoon was not advisable. Next day, November +23, the wind had gone round to the north-east, with comparatively +manageable weather, so at seven in the morning we began to repack +the sledges. This was not an altogether pleasant task; although the +weather was what I have called "comparatively manageable," it was +very far from being suitable for packing provisions. The chocolate, +which by this time consisted chiefly of very small pieces, had to +be taken out, counted, and then divided among the three sledges. The +same with the biscuits; every single biscuit had to be taken out and +counted, and as we had some thousands of them to deal with, it will +readily be understood what it was to stand there in about -4º F. and +a gale of wind, most of the time with bare hands, fumbling over this +troublesome occupation. The wind increased while we were at work, +and when at last we had finished, the snow was so thick that we could +scarcely see the tent.</p> + +<p>Our original intention of starting again as soon as the sledges +were ready was abandoned. We did not lose very much by this; on the +contrary, we gained on the whole. The dogs -- the most important +factor of all -- had a thorough rest, and were well fed. They had +undergone a remarkable change since our arrival at the Butcher's Shop; +they now wandered about, fat, sleek, and contented, and their former +voracity had completely disappeared. As regards ourselves, a day or +two longer made no difference; our most important article of diet, +the pemmican, was practically left untouched, as for the time being +dog had completely taken its place. There was thus no great sign +of depression to be noticed when we came back into the tent after +finishing our work, and had to while away the time. As I went in, +I could descry Wisting a little way off kneeling on the ground, +and engaged in the manufacture of cutlets. The dogs stood in a ring +round him, and looked on with interest. The north-east wind whistled +and howled, the air was thick with driving snow, and Wisting was not +to be envied. But he managed his work well, and we got our dinner as +usual. During the evening the wind moderated a little, and went more to +the east; we went to sleep with the best hopes for the following day.</p> + +<p>Saturday, November 25, came; it was a grand day in many respects. I had +already seen proofs on several occasions of the kind of men my comrades +were, but their conduct that day was such that I shall never forget +it, to whatever age I may live. In the course of the night the wind +had gone back to the north, and increased to a gale. It was blowing +and snowing so that when we came out in the morning we could not +see the sledges; they were half snowed under. The dogs had all crept +together, and protected themselves as well as they could against the +blizzard. The temperature was not so very low (-16.6º F.), but low +enough to be disagreeably felt in a storm. We had all taken a turn +outside to look at the weather, and were sitting on our sleeping-bags +discussing the poor prospect. "It's the devil's own weather here at +the Butcher's," said one; "it looks to me as if it would never get any +better. This is the fifth day, and it's blowing worse than ever." We +all agreed. "There's nothing so bad as lying weather-bound like this," +continued another; "it takes more out of you than going from morning to +night." Personally, I was of the same opinion. One day may be pleasant +enough, but two, three, four, and, as it now seemed, five days -- no, +it was awful. "Shall we try it?" No sooner was the proposal submitted +than it was accepted unanimously and with acclamation. When I think +of my four friends of the southern journey, it is the memory of that +morning that comes first to my mind. All the qualities that I most +admire in a man were clearly shown at that juncture: courage and +dauntlessness, without boasting or big words. Amid joking and chaff, +everything was packed, and then -- out into the blizzard.</p> + +<p>It was practically impossible to keep one's eyes open; the fine +drift-snow penetrated everywhere, and at times one had a feeling of +being blind. The tent was not only drifted up, but covered with ice, +and in taking it down we had to handle it with care. so as not to break +it in pieces. The dogs were not much inclined to start, and it took +time to get them into their harness, but at last we were ready. One +more glance over the camping-ground to see that nothing we ought to +have with us had been forgotten. The fourteen dogs' carcasses that +were left were piled up in a heap, and Hassel's sledge was set up +against it as a mark. The spare sets of dog-harness, some Alpine ropes, +and all our crampons for ice-work, which we now thought would not be +required, were left behind. The last thing to be done was planting a +broken ski upright by the side of the depot. It was Wisting who did +this, thinking, presumably, that an extra mark would do no harm. That +it was a happy thought the future will show.</p> + +<p>And then we were off: It was a hard pull to begin with, both for +men and beasts, as the high sastrugi continued towards the south, +and made it extremely difficult to advance. Those who had sledges +to drive had to be very attentive, and support them so that they did +not capsize on the big waves, and we who had no sledges found great +difficulty in keeping our feet, as we had nothing to lean against. We +went on like this, slowly enough, but the main thing was that we +made progress. The ground at first gave one the impression of rising, +though not much. The going was extremely heavy; it was like dragging +oneself through sand. Meanwhile the sastrugi grew smaller and smaller, +and finally they disappeared altogether, and the surface became +quite flat. The going also improved by degrees, for what reason it +is difficult to say, as the storm continued unabated, and the drift +-- now combined with falling snow -- was thicker than ever. It was +all the driver could do to see his own dogs. The surface, which had +become perfectly level, had the appearance at times of sinking; in +any case, one would have thought so from the pace of the sledges. Now +and again the dogs would set off suddenly at a gallop. The wind aft, +no doubt, helped the pace somewhat, but it alone could not account +for the change.</p> + +<p>I did not like this tendency of the ground to fall away. In my opinion, +we ought to have done with anything of that sort after reaching the +height at which we were; a slight slope upward, possibly, but down -- +no, that did not agree with my reckoning. So far the incline had not +been so great as to cause uneasiness, but if it seriously began to go +downhill, we should have to stop and camp. To run down at full gallop, +blindly and in complete ignorance of the ground, would be madness. We +might risk falling into some chasm before we had time to pull up.</p> + +<p>Hanssen, as usual, was driving first. Strictly speaking, I should now +have been going in advance, but the uneven surface at the start and the +rapid pace afterwards had made it impossible to walk as fast the dogs +could pull. I was therefore following by the side of Wisting's sledge, +and chatting with him. Suddenly I saw Hanssen's dogs shoot ahead, +and downhill they went at the wildest pace, Wisting after them. I +shouted to Hanssen to stop, and he succeeded in doing so by twisting +his sledge. The others, who were following, stopped when they came up +to him. We were in the middle of a fairly steep descent; what there +might be below was not easy to decide, nor would we try to find out +in that weather. Was it possible that we were on our way down through +the mountains again? It seemed more probable that we lay on one of the +numerous ridges; but we could be sure of nothing before the weather +cleared. We trampled down a place for the tent in the loose snow, +and soon got it up. It was not a long day's march that we had done -- +eleven and three-quarter miles -- but we had put an end to our stay at +the Butcher's Shop, and that was a great thing. The boiling-point test +that evening showed that we were 10,300 feet above the sea, and that +we had thus gone down 620 feet from the Butcher's. We turned in and +went to sleep. As soon as it brightened, we should have to be ready to +jump out and look at the weather; one has to seize every opportunity +in these regions. If one neglects to do so, it may mean a long wait +and much may be lost. We therefore all slept with one eye open, +and we knew well that nothing could happen without our noticing it.</p> + +<p>At three in the morning the sun cut through the clouds and we +through the tent-door. To take in the situation was more than the +work of a moment. The sun showed as yet like a pat of butter, and +had not succeeded in dispersing the thick mists; the wind had dropped +somewhat, but was still fairly strong. This is, after all, the worst +part of one's job -- turning out of one's good, warm sleeping-bag, +and standing outside for some time in thin clothes, watching the +weather. We knew by experience that a gleam like this, a clearing +in the weather, might come suddenly, and then one had to be on the +spot. The gleam came; it did not last long, but long enough. We lay +on the side of a ridge that fell away pretty steeply. The descent on +the south was too abrupt, but on the south-east it was better and more +gradual, and ended in a wide, level tract. We could see no crevasses +or unpleasantness of any kind. It was not very far that we could +see, though; only our nearest surroundings. Of the mountains we saw +nothing, neither Fridtjof Nansen nor Don Pedro Christophersen. Well +content with our morning's work, we turned in again and slept till +6 a.m., when we began our morning preparations. The weather, which +had somewhat improved during the night, had now broken loose again, +and the north-easter was doing all it could. However, it would take +more than storm and snow to stop us now, since we had discovered the +nature of our immediate surroundings; if we once got down to the plain, +we knew that we could always feel our way on.</p> + +<p>After putting ample brakes on the sledge-runners, we started off +downhill in a south-easterly direction. The slight idea of the position +that we had been able to get in the morning proved correct. The +descent was easy and smooth, and we reached the plain without any +adventure. We could now once more set our faces to the south, and in +thick driving snow we continued our way into the unknown, with good +assistance from the howling north-easterly gale. We now recommenced the +erection of beacons, which had not been necessary during the ascent. In +the course of the forenoon we again passed over a little ridge, the +last of them that we encountered. The surface was now fine enough, +smooth as a floor and without a sign of sastrugi. If our progress was +nevertheless slow and difficult, this was due to the wretched going, +which was real torture to all of us. A sledge journey through the +Sahara could not have offered a worse surface to move over. Now the +forerunners came into their own, and from here to the Pole Hassel. and +I took it in turns to occupy the position.</p> + +<p>The weather improved in the course of the day, and when we camped in +the afternoon it looked quite smiling. The sun came through and gave +a delightful warmth after the last few bitter days. It was not yet +clear, so that we could see nothing of our surroundings. The distance +according to our three sledge-meters was eighteen and a half miles; +taking the bad going into consideration, we had reason to be well +satisfied with it. Our altitude came out at 9,475 feet above the sea, +or a drop of 825 feet in the course of the day. This surprised me +greatly. What did it mean? Instead of rising gradually, we were going +slowly down. Something extraordinary must await us farther on, but, +what? According to dead reckoning our latitude that evening was 86º S.</p> + +<p>November 27 did not bring us the desired weather; the night was filled +with sharp gusts from the north; the morning came with a slack wind, +but accompanied by mist and snowfall. This was abominable; here +we were, advancing over absolutely virgin ground, and able to see +nothing. The surface remained about the same -- possibly rather more +undulating. That it had been blowing here at some time, and violently +too, was shown by the under-surface, which was composed of sastrugi +as hard as iron. Luckily for us, the snowfall of the last few days +had filled these up, so as to present a level surface. It was heavy +going, though better than on the previous day.</p> + +<p>As we were advancing, still blindly, and fretting at the +persistently thick weather, one of us suddenly called out: "Hullo, +look there!" A wild, dark summit rose high out of the mass of fog to +the east-south-east. It was not far away -- on the contrary, it seemed +threateningly near and right over us. We stopped and looked at the +imposing sight, but Nature did not expose her objects of interest for +long. The fog rolled over again, thick, heavy and dark, and blotted out +the view. We knew now that we had to be prepared for surprises. After +we had gone about ten miles the fog again lifted for a moment, and +we saw quite near -- a mile or so away -- two long, narrow mountain +ridges to the west of us, running north and south, and completely +covered with snow. These -- Helland Hansen's Mountains -- were the +only ones we saw on our right hand during the march on the plateau; +they were between 9,000 and 10,000 feet high, and would probably serve +as excellent landmarks on the return journey. There was no connection +to be traced between these mountains and those lying to the east of +them; they gave us the impression of being entirely isolated summits, +as we could not make out any lofty ridge running east and west. We +continued our course in the constant expectation of finding some +surprise or other in our line of route. The air ahead of us was as +black as pitch, as though it concealed something. It could not be a +storm, or it would have been already upon us. But we went on and on, +and nothing came. Our day's march was eighteen and a half miles.</p> + +<p>I see that my diary for November 28 does not begin very promisingly: +"Fog, fog -- and again fog. Also fine falling snow, which makes the +going impossible. Poor beasts, they have toiled hard to get the sledges +forward to-day." But the day did not turn out so badly after all, +as we worked our way out of this uncertainty and found out what was +behind the pitch-dark clouds. During the forenoon the sun came through +and thrust aside the fog for a while; and there, to the south-east, +not many miles away, lay an immense mountain mass. From this mass, +right across our course, ran a great, ancient glacier; the sun shone +down upon it and showed us a surface full of huge irregularities. On +the side nearest to the mountain these disturbances were such that a +hasty glance was enough to show us the impossibility of advancing that +way. But right in our line of route -- straight on to the glacier -- +it looked, as far as we could see, as though we could get along. The +fog came and went, and we had to take advantage of the clear intervals +to get our bearings. It would, no doubt, have been better if we could +have halted, set up our tent, and waited for decently clear weather, +so that we might survey the ground at our ease and choose the best +way. Going forward without an idea of what the ground was like, +was not very pleasant. But how long should we have to wait for clear +weather? That question was unanswerable; possibly a week, or even a +fortnight, and we had no time for that. Better go straight on, then, +and take what might come.</p> + +<p>What we could see of the glacier appeared to be pretty steep; but +it was only between the south and south-east, under the new land, +that the fog now and again lifted sufficiently to enable us to see +anything. From the south round to the west the fog lay as thick as +gruel. We could see that the big crevasses lost themselves in it, +and the question of what the glacier looked like on the west had +to be put aside for the moment. It was to the south we had to go, +and there it was possible to go forward a little way. We continued +our march until the ground began to show signs of the glacier in the +form of small crevasses, and then we halted. It was our intention to +lighten our sledges before tackling the glacier; from the little we +could see of it, it was plain enough that we should have stiff work. It +was therefore important to have as little as possible on the sledges.</p> + +<p>We set to work at once to build the depot; the snow here was excellent +for this purpose -- as hard as glass. In a short time an immense +erection of adamantine blocks of snow rose into the air, containing +provisions for five men for six days and for eighteen dogs for five +days. A number of small articles were also left behind.</p> + +<p>While we were thus occupied, the fog had been coming and going; some +of the intervals had been quite clear, and had given me a good view of +the nearest part of the range. It appeared to be quite isolated, and +to consist of four mountains; one of these -- Mount Helmer Hanssen -- +lay separated from the rest. The other three -- Mounts Oscar Wisting, +Sverre Hassel, and Olav Bjaaland -- lay closer together. Behind this +group the air had been heavy and black the whole time, showing that +more land must be concealed there. Suddenly, in one of the brightest +intervals, there came a rift in this curtain, and the summits of +a colossal mountain mass appeared. Our first impression was that +this mountain -- Mount Thorvald Nilsen -- must be something over +20,000 feet high; it positively took our breath away, so formidable +did it appear. But it was only a glimpse that we had, and then the +fog enclosed it once more. We had succeeded in taking a few meagre +bearings of the different summits of the nearest group; they were not +very grand, but better ones were not to be obtained. For that matter, +the site of the depot was so well marked by its position under the +foot of the glacier that we agreed it would be impossible to miss it.</p> + +<p>Having finished the edifice, which rose at least 6 feet into the air, +we put one of our black provision cases on the top of it, so as to be +able to see it still more easily on the way back. An observation we had +contrived to take while the work was in progress gave us our latitude +as 86º 21' S. This did not agree very well with the latitude of our +dead reckoning -- 86º 23' S. Meanwhile the fog had again enveloped +everything, and a fine, light snow was falling. We had taken a +bearing of the line of glacier that was most free of crevasses, +and so we moved on again. It was some time before we felt our way +up to the glacier. The crevasses at its foot were not large, but we +had no sooner entered upon the ascent than the fun began. There was +something uncanny about this perfectly blind advance among crevasses +and chasms on all sides. We examined the compass from time to time, +and went forward cautiously.</p> + +<p>Hassel and I went in front on a rope; but that, after all, was not much +of a help to our drivers. We naturally glided lightly on our ski over +places where the dogs would easily fall through. This lowest part of +the glacier was not entirely free from danger, as the crevasses were +often rendered quite invisible by a thin overlying layer of snow. In +clear weather it is not so bad to have to cross such a surface, +as the effect of light and shade is usually to show up the edges of +these insidious pitfalls, but on a day like this, when everything +looked alike, one's advance is doubtful. We kept it going, however, +by using the utmost caution. Wisting came near to sounding the depth +of one of these dangerous crevasses with sledge, dogs and all, as +the bridge he was about to cross gave way. Thanks to his presence +of mind and a lightning-like movement -- some would call it luck -- +he managed to save himself. In this way we worked up about 200 feet, +but then we came upon such a labyrinth of yawning chasms and open +abysses that we could not move. There was nothing to be done but to +find the least disturbed spot, and set the tent there.</p> + +<p>As soon as this was done Hanssen and I set out to explore. We were +roped, and therefore safe enough. It required some study to find a +way out of the trap we had run ourselves into. Towards the group of +mountains last described -- which now lay to the east of us -- it had +cleared sufficiently to give us a fairly good view of the appearance of +the glacier in that direction. What we had before seen at a distance, +was now confirmed. The part extending to the mountains was so ground +up and broken that there was positively not a spot where one could +set one's foot. It looked as if a battle had been fought here, and +the ammunition had been great blocks of ice. They lay pell-mell, +one on the top of another, in all directions, and evoked a picture of +violent confusion. Thank God we were not here while this was going on, +I thought to myself, as I stood looking out over this battlefield; +it must have been a spectacle like doomsday, and not on a small scale +either. To advance in that direction, then, was hopeless, but that +was no great matter, since our way was to the south. On the south we +could see nothing; the fog lay thick and heavy there. All we could +do was to try to make our way on, and we therefore crept southward.</p> + +<p>On leaving our tent we had first to cross a comparatively narrow +snow-bridge, and then go along a ridge or saddle, raised by pressure, +with wide open crevasses on both sides. This ridge led us on to +an icewave about 25 feet high -- a formation which was due to the +pressure having ceased before the wave had been forced to break and +form hummocks. We saw well enough that this would be a difficult place +to pass with sledges and dogs, but in default of anything better it +would have to be done. From the top of this wave-formation we could see +down on the other side, which had hitherto been hidden from us. The +fog prevented our seeing far, but the immediate surroundings were +enough to convince us that with caution we could beat up farther. From +the height on which we stood, every precaution would be required to +avoid going down on the other side; for there the wave ended in an +open crevasse, specially adapted to receive any drivers, sledges or +dogs that might make a slip.</p> + +<p>This trip that Hanssen and I took to the south was made entirely at +random, as we saw absolutely nothing; our object was to make tracks for +the following day's journey. The language we used about the glacier +as we went was not altogether complimentary; we had endless tacking +and turning to get on. To go one yard forward, I am sure we had to +go at least ten to one side. Can anyone be surprised that we called +it the Devil's Glacier? At any rate, our companions acknowledged the +justness of the name with ringing acclamations when we told them of it.</p> + +<p>At Hell's Gate Hanssen and I halted. This was a very remarkable +formation; the glacier had here formed a long ridge about 20 feet +high; then, in the middle of this ridge, a fissure had opened, +making a gateway about 6 feet wide. This formation -- like every -- +thing else on the glacier-was obviously very old, and for the most +part filled with snow. From this point the glacier, as far as our +view extended to the south, looked better and better; we therefore +turned round and followed our tracks in the comforting conviction +that we should manage to get on.</p> + +<p>Our companions were no less pleased with the news we brought of our +prospects. Our altitude that evening was 8,650 feet above the sea -- +that is to say, at the foot of the glacier we had reached an altitude +of 8,450 feet, or a drop from the Butcher's of 2,570 feet. We now knew +very well that we should have this ascent to make again, perhaps even +more; and this idea did not arouse any particular enthusiasm. In my +diary I see that I conclude the day with the following words "What +will the next surprise be, I wonder?"</p> + +<p>It was, in fact, an extraordinary journey that we were undertaking, +through new regions, new mountains, glaciers, and so on, without being +able to see. That we were prepared for surprises was perhaps quite +natural. What I liked least about this feeling one's way forward in +the dark was that it would be difficult -- very difficult indeed -- +to recognize the ground again on the way back. But with this glacier +lying straight across our line of route, and with the numerous beacons +we had erected, we reassured ourselves on this score. It would take +a good deal to make us miss them on the return. The point for us, +of course, was to find our descent on to the Barrier again -- a +mistake there might be serious enough. And it will appear later in +this narrative that my fear of our not being able to recognize the +way was not entirely groundless. The beacons we had put up came to +our aid, and for our final success we owe a deep debt of gratitude +to our prudence and thoughtfulness in adopting this expedient.</p> + +<p>Next morning, November 29, brought considerably clearer weather, +and allowed us a very good survey of our position. We could now see +that the two mountain ranges uniting in 86º S. were continued in a +mighty chain running to the south-east, with summits from 10,000 to +15,000 feet. Mount Thorvald Nilsen was the most southerly we could +see from this point. Mounts Hanssen, Wisting, Bjaaland, and Hassel +formed, as we had thought the day before, a group by themselves, +and lay separated from the main range.</p> + +<p>The drivers had a warm morning's work. They had to drive with great +circumspection and patience to grapple with the kind of ground we +had before us; a slight mistake might be enough to send both sledge +and dogs with lightning rapidity into the next world. It took, +nevertheless, a remarkably short time to cover the distance we had +explored on the previous evening; before we knew it, we were at +Hell's Gate.</p> + +<p>Bjaaland took an excellent photograph here, which gives a very good +idea of the difficulties this part of the journey presented. In the +foreground, below the high snow-ridge that forms one side of a very +wide but partly filled-up crevasse, the marks of ski can be seen in the +snow. This was the photographer, who, in passing over this snow-bridge, +struck his ski into it to try the strength of the support. Close to +the tracks can be seen an open piece of the crevasse; it is a pale +blue at the top, but ends in the deepest black -- in a bottomless +abyss. The photographer got over the bridge and back with a whole skin, +but there could be no question of risking sledges and dogs on it, and +it can be seen in the photograph that the sledges have been turned +right round to try another way. The two small black figures in the +distance, on the right, are Hassel and I, who are reconnoitring ahead.</p> + +<p>It was no very great distance that we put behind us that day-nine +and a quarter miles in a straight line. But, taking into account all +the turns and circuits we had been compelled to make, it was not so +short after all. We set our tent on a good, solid foundation, and were +well pleased with the day's work. The altitude was 8,960 feet above +the sea. The sun was now in the west, and shining directly upon the +huge mountain masses. It was a fairy landscape in blue and white, red +and black, a play of colours that defies description. Clear as it now +appeared to be, one could understand that the weather was not all that +could be wished, for the south-eastern end of Mount Thorvald Nilsen +lost itself in a dark, impenetrable cloud, which led one to suspect +a continuation in that direction, though one could not be certain.</p> + +<p>Mount Nilsen -- ah! anything more beautiful, taking it altogether, +I have never seen. Peaks of the most varied forms rose high into the +air, partly covered with driving clouds. Some were sharp, but most +were long and rounded. Here and there one saw bright, shining glaciers +plunging wildly down the steep sides, and merging into the underlying +ground in fearful confusion. But the most remarkable of them all was +Mount Helmer Hanssen; its top was as round as the bottom of a bowl, +and covered by an extraordinary ice-sheet, which was so broken up and +disturbed that the blocks of ice bristled in every direction like the +quills of a porcupine. It glittered and burned in the sunlight -- a +glorious spectacle. There could only be one such mountain in the world, +and as a landmark it was priceless. We knew that we could not mistake +that, however the surroundings might appear on the return journey, +when possibly the conditions of lighting might be altogether different.</p> + +<p>After camping, two of us went out to explore farther. The prospect from +the tent was not encouraging, but we might possibly find things better +than we expected. We were lucky to find the going so fine as it was +on the glacier; we had left our crampons behind at the Butcher's Shop, +and if we had found smooth ice, instead of a good, firm snow surface, +such as we now had, it would have caused us much trouble. Up -- +still up, among monsters of crevasses, some of them hundreds of feet +wide and possibly thousands of feet deep. Our prospects of advancing +were certainly not bright; as far as we could see in the line of our +route one immense ridge towered above another, concealing on their +farther sides huge, wide chasms, which all had to be avoided. We went +forward -- steadily forward -- though the way round was both long and +troublesome. We had no rope on this time, as the irregularities were +so plain that it would have been difficult to go into them. It turned +out, however, at several points, that the rope would not have been +out of place. We were just going to cross over one of the numerous +ridges -- the surface here looked perfectly whole -- when a great +piece broke right under the back half of Hanssen's ski. We could +not deny ourselves the pleasure of glancing down into the hole. The +sight was not an inviting one, and we agreed to avoid this place when +we came on with our dogs and sledges. Every day we had occasion to +bless our ski. We often used to ask each other where we should now +have been without these excellent appliances. The usual answer was: +Most probably at the bottom of some crevasse. When we first read +the different accounts of the aspect and nature of the Barrier, it +was clear to all of us, who were born and bred with ski on our feet, +that these must be regarded as indispensable. This view was confirmed +and strengthened every day, and I am not giving too much credit to our +excellent ski when I say that they not only played a very important +part, but possibly the most important of all, on our journey to the +South Pole. Many a time we traversed stretches of surface so cleft +and disturbed that it would have been an impossibility to get over +them on foot. I need scarcely insist on the advantages of ski in deep, +loose snow.</p> + +<p>After advancing for two hours, we decided to return. From the raised +ridge on which we were then standing, the surface ahead of us looked +more promising than ever; but we had so often been deceived on the +glacier that we had now become definitely sceptical. How often, +for instance, had we thought that beyond this or that undulation +our trials would be at an end, and that the way to the south would +lie open and free; only to reach the place and find that the ground +behind the ridge was, if possible, worse than what we had already been +struggling with. But this time we seemed somehow to feel victory in +the air. The formations appeared to promise it, and yet -- had we been +so often deceived by these formations that we now refused to offer +them a thought? Was it possibly instinct that told us this? I do not +know, but certain it is that Hanssen and I agreed, as we stood there +discussing our prospects, that behind the farthest ridge we saw, we +should conquer the glacier. We had a feverish desire to go and have +a look at it; but the way round the many crevasses was long, and -- +I may as well admit it -- we were beginning to get tired. The return, +downhill as it was, did not take long, and soon we were able to tell +our comrades that the prospects for the morrow were very promising.</p> + +<p>While we had been away, Hassel had measured the Nilsen Mountain, +and found its height to be 15,500 feet above the sea. How well +I remember that evening, when we stood contemplating the glorious +sight that Nature offered, and believing the air to be so clear that +anything within range of vision must have shown itself; and how well, +too, I remember our astonishment on the return journey on finding +the whole landscape completely transformed! If it had not been for +Mount Helmer Hanssen, it would have been difficult for us to know +where we were. The atmosphere in these regions may play the most +awkward tricks. Absolutely clear as it seemed to us that evening, +it nevertheless turned out later that it had been anything but +clear. One has, therefore, to be very careful about what one sees +or does not see. In most cases it has proved that travellers in the +Polar regions have been more apt to see too much than too little; +if, however, we had charted this tract as we saw it the first time, +a great part of the mountain ranges would have been omitted.</p> + +<p>During the night a gale sprang up from the south-east, and blew so +that it howled in the guy-ropes of the tent; it was well that the +tent-pegs had a good hold. In the morning, while we were at breakfast, +it was still blowing, and we had some thoughts of waiting for a time; +but suddenly, without warning, the wind dropped to such an extent +that all our hesitation vanished. What a change the south-east wind +had produced! The splendid covering of snow that the day before had +made ski-running a pleasure, was now swept away over great stretches +of surface, exposing the hard substratum. Our thoughts flew back; +the crampons we had left behind seemed to dance before my eyes, +backwards and forwards, grinning and pointing fingers at me. It would +be a nice little extra trip back to the Butcher's to fetch them.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile, we packed and made everything ready. The tracks of the day +before were not easy to follow; but if we lost them now and again +on the smooth ice surface, we picked them up later on a snow-wave +that had resisted the attack of the wind. It was hard and strenuous +work for the drivers. The sledges were difficult to manage over the +smooth, sloping ice; sometimes they went straight, but just as often +cross-wise, requiring sharp attention to keep them from capsizing. And +this had to be prevented at all costs, as the thin provision cases +would not stand many bumps on the ice; besides which, it was such +hard work righting the sledges again that for this reason alone +the drivers exercised the greatest care. The sledges were put to a +severe test that day, with the many great and hard irregularities we +encountered on the glacier; it is a wonder they survived it, and is +a good testimonial for Bjaaland's work.</p> + +<p>The glacier that day presented the worst confusion we had yet had +to deal with. Hassel and I went in front, as usual, with the rope +on. Up to the spot Hanssen and I had reached the evening before our +progress was comparatively easy; one gets on so much quicker when one +knows that the way is practicable. After this point it became worse; +indeed, it was often so bad that we had to stop for a long time and +try in various directions, before finding a way. More than once the +axe had to be used to hack away obstructions. At one time things +looked really serious; chasm after chasm, hummock after hummock, so +high and steep that they were like mountains. Here we went out and +explored in every direction to find a passage; at last we found one, +if, indeed, it deserved the name of a passage. It was a bridge so +narrow that it scarcely allowed room for the width of the sledge; +a fearful abyss on each side. The crossing of this place reminded +me of the tight-rope walker going over Niagara. It was a good thing +none of us was subject to giddiness, and that the dogs did not know +exactly what the result of a false step would be.</p> + +<p>On the other side of this bridge we began to go downhill, and our +course now lay in a long valley between lofty undulations on each +side. It tried our patience severely to advance here, as the line of +the hollow was fairly long and ran due west. We tried several times +to lay our course towards the south and clamber up the side of the +undulation, but these efforts did not pay us. We could always get up on +to the ridge, but we could not come down again on the other side; there +was nothing to be done but to follow the natural course of the valley +until it took us into the tract lying to the south. It was especially +the drivers whose patience was sorely tried, and I could see them now +and then take a turn up to the top of the ridge, not satisfied with +the exploration Hassel and I had made. But the result was always the +same; they had to submit to Nature's caprices and follow in our tracks.</p> + +<p>Our course along this natural line was not entirely free from +obstruction; crevasses of various dimensions constantly crossed our +path. The ridge or undulation, at the top of which we at last arrived, +had quite an imposing effect. It terminated on the east in a steep drop +to the underlying surface, and attained at this point a height of over +100 feet. On the west it sloped gradually into the lower ground and +allowed us to advance that way. In order to have a better view of the +surroundings we ascended the eastern and highest part of the ridge, +and from here we at once had a confirmation of our supposition of the +day before. The ridge we had then seen, behind which we hoped to find +better conditions, could now be seen a good way ahead. And what we +then saw made our hearts beat fast with joy. Could that great white, +unbroken plain over there be real, or was it only an illusion? Time +would show.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile Hassel and I jogged on, and the others followed. We had +to get through a good many difficulties yet before we reached that +point, but, compared with all the breakneck places we had already +crossed, these were of a comparatively tame description. It was +with a sigh of relief that we arrived at the plain that promised so +well; its extent was not very great, but we were not very exacting +either in this respect, after our last few days' march over the +broken surface. Farther to the south we could still see great masses +piled up by pressure, but the intervals between them were very great +and the surface was whole. This was, then, the first time since we +tackled the Devil's Glacier that we were able to steer true south +for a few minutes.</p> + +<p>As we progressed, it could be seen that we had really come upon another +kind of ground; for once we had not been made fools of. Not that we +had an unbroken, level surface to go upon -- it would be a long time +before we came to that -- but we were able to keep our course for long +stretches at a time. The huge crevasses became rarer, and so filled up +at both ends that we were able to cross them without going a long way +round. There was new life in all of us, both dogs and men, and we went +rapidly southward. As we advanced, the conditions improved more and +more. We could see in the distance some huge dome-shaped formations, +that seemed to tower high into the air: these turned out to be the +southernmost limit of the big crevasses and to form the transition +to the third phase of the glacier.</p> + +<p>It was a stiff climb to get up these domes, which were fairly high +and swept smooth by the wind. They lay straight in our course, and +from their tops we had a good view. The surface we were entering upon +was quite different from that on the northern side of the domes. Here +the big crevasses were entirely filled with snow and might be crossed +anywhere. What specially attracted one's attention here was an immense +number of small formations in the shape of haycocks. Great stretches +of the surface were swept bare, exposing the smooth ice.</p> + +<p>It was evident that these various formations or phases in the glacier +were due to the underlying ground. The first tract we had passed, +where the confusion was so extreme, must be the part that lay +nearest the bare land; in proportion as the glacier left the land, +it became less disturbed: In the haycock district the disturbance +had not produced cracks in the surface to any extent, only upheaval +here and there. How these haycocks were formed and what they looked +like inside we were soon to find out. It was a pleasure to be able to +advance all the time, instead of constantly turning and going round; +only once or twice did we have to turn aside for the larger haycocks, +otherwise we kept our course. The great, clean-swept stretches of +surface that we came upon from time to time were split in every +direction, but the cracks were very narrow -- about half an inch wide.</p> + +<p>We had difficulty in finding a place for the tent that evening; +the surface was equally hard everywhere, and at last we had to set +it on the bare ice. Luckily for our tent-pegs, this ice was not of +the bright, steely variety; it was more milky in appearance and +not so hard, and we were thus able to knock in the pegs with the +axe. When the tent was up, Hassel went out as usual to fetch snow +for the cooker. As a rule he performed this task with a big knife, +specially made for snow; but this evening he went out armed with an +axe. He was very pleased with the abundant and excellent material +that lay to his hand; there was no need to go far. Just outside the +tent door, two feet away, stood a fine little haycock, that looked +as if it would serve the purpose well. Hassel raised his axe and +gave a good sound blow; the axe met with no resistance, and went in +up to the haft. The haycock was hollow. As the axe was pulled out +the surrounding part gave way, and one could hear the pieces of ice +falling down through the dark hole. It appeared, then, that two feet +from our door we had a most convenient way down into the cellar. Hassel +looked as if he enjoyed the situation. "Black as a sack," he smiled; +"couldn't see any bottom." Hanssen was beaming; no doubt he would +have liked the tent a little nearer. The material provided by the +haycock was of the best quality, and well adapted for cooking purposes.</p> + +<p>The next day, December 1, was a very fatiguing one for us all. From +early morning a blinding blizzard raged from the south-east, +with a heavy fall of snow. The going was of the very worst kind -- +polished ice. I stumbled forward on ski, and had comparatively easy +work. The drivers had been obliged to take off their ski and put +them on the loads, so as to walk by the side, support the sledges, +and give the dogs help when they came to a difficult place; and that +was pretty often, for on this smooth ice surface there were a number +of small scattered sastrugi, and these consisted of a kind of snow +that reminded one more of fish-glue than of anything else when the +sledges came in contact with it. The dogs could get no hold with +their claws on the smooth ice, and when the sledge came on to one +of these tough little waves, they could not manage to haul it over, +try as they might. The driver then had to put all his strength into +it to prevent the sledge stopping. Thus in most cases the combined +efforts of men and dogs carried the sledge on.</p> + +<p>In the course of the afternoon the surface again began to be more +disturbed, and great crevasses crossed our path time after time. These +crevasses were really rather dangerous; they looked very innocent, +as they were quite filled up with snow, but on a nearer acquaintance +with them we came to understand that they were far more hazardous +than we dreamed of at first. It turned out that between the loose +snow-filling and the firm ice edges there was a fairly broad, open +space, leading straight down into the depths. The layer of snow +which covered it over was in most cases quite thin. In driving out +into one of these snow-filled crevasses nothing happened as a rule; +but it was in getting off on the other side that the critical moment +arrived. For here the dogs came up on to the smooth ice surface, and +could get no hold for their claws, with the result that it was left +entirely to the driver to haul the the sledge up. The strong pull he +then had to give sent him through the thin layer of snow. Under these +circumstances he took a good, firm hold of the sledge-lashing, or of +a special strap that had been made with a view to these accidents. But +familiarity breeds contempt, even with the most cautious, and some of +the drivers were often within an ace of going down into "the cellar."</p> + +<p>If this part of the journey was trying for the dogs, it was certainly +no less so for the men. If the weather had even been fine, so that we +could have looked about us, we should not have minded it so much, but +in this vile weather it was, indeed, no pleasure. Our time was also +a good deal taken up with thawing noses and cheeks as they froze -- +not that we stopped; we had no time for that. We simply took off a mit, +and laid the warm hand on the frozen spot as we went; when we thought +we had restored sensation, we put the hand back into the mit. By +this time it would want warming. One does not keep one's hands bare +for long with the thermometer several degrees below zero and a storm +blowing. In spite of the unfavourable conditions we had been working +in, the sledge-meters that evening showed a distance of fifteen and a +half miles. We were well satisfied with the day's work when we camped.</p> + +<p>Let us cast a glance into the tent this evening. It looks cosy +enough. The inner half of the tent is occupied by three sleeping-bags, +whose respective owners have found it both comfortable and expedient +to turn in, and may now be seen engaged with their diaries. The outer +half -- that nearest the door -- has only two sleeping-bags, but +the rest of the space is taken up with the whole cooking apparatus +of the expedition. The owners of these two bags are still sitting +up. Hanssen is cook, and will not turn in until the food is ready and +served. Wisting is his sworn comrade and assistant, and is ready to +lend him any aid that may be required. Hanssen appears to be a careful +cook; he evidently does not like to burn the food, and his spoon stirs +the contents of the pot incessantly. "Soup!" The effect of the word +is instantaneous. Everyone sits up at once with a cup in one hand and +a spoon in the other. Each one in his turn has his cup filled with +what looks like the most tasty vegetable soup. Scalding hot it is, +as one can see by the faces, but for all that it disappears with +surprising rapidity. Again the cups are filled, this time with more +solid stuff pemmican. With praiseworthy despatch their contents are +once more demolished, and they are filled for the third time. There is +nothing the matter with these men's appetites. The cups are carefully +scraped, and the enjoyment of bread and water begins. It is easy to +see, too, that it is an enjoyment -- greater, to judge by the pleasure +on their faces, than the most skilfully devised menu could afford. They +positively caress the biscuits before they eat them. And the water -- +ice-cold water they all call for -- this also disappears in great +quantities, and procures, I feel certain from their expression, +a far greater pleasure and satisfaction than the finest wine that +was ever produced. The Primus hums softly during the whole meal, +and the temperature in the tent is quite pleasant.</p> + +<p>When the meal is over, one of them calls for scissors and +looking-glass, and then one may see the Polar explorers dressing their +hair for the approaching Sunday. The beard is cut quite short with the +clipper every Saturday evening; this is done not so much from motives +of vanity as from considerations of utility and comfort. The beard +invites an accumulation of ice, which may often be very embarrassing. A +beard in the Polar regions seems to me to be just as awkward and +unpractical as -- well, let us say, walking with a tall hat on each +foot. As the beard-clipper and the mirror make their round, one +after the other disappears into his bag, and with five "Good-nights," +silence falls upon the tent. The regular breathing soon announces that +the day's work demands its tribute. Meanwhile the south-easter howls, +and the snow beats against the tent. The dogs have curled themselves +up, and do not seem to trouble themselves about the weather.</p> + +<p>The storm continued unabated on the following day, and on account of +the dangerous nature of the ground we decided to wait awhile. In the +course of the morning -- towards noon, perhaps -- the wind dropped +a little, and out we went. The sun peeped through at times, and +we took the welcome opportunity of getting an altitude -- 86º 47' +S. was the result.</p> + +<p>At this camp we left behind all our delightful reindeer-skin clothing, +as we could see that we should have no use for it, the temperature +being far too high. We kept the hoods of our reindeer coats, however; +we might be glad of them in going against the wind. Our day's march +was not to be a long one; the little slackening of the wind about +midday was only a joke. It soon came on again in earnest, with a +sweeping blizzard from the same quarter -- the south-east. If we +had known the ground, we should possibly have gone on; but in this +storm and driving snow, which prevented our keeping our eyes open, +it was no use. A serious accident might happen and ruin all. Two and +half miles was therefore our whole distance. The temperature when we +camped was -5.8º F. Height above the sea, 9,780 feet.</p> + +<p>In the course of the night the wind veered from south-east to north, +falling light, and the weather cleared. This was a good chance for us, +and we were not slow to avail ourselves of it. A gradually rising ice +surface lay before us, bright as a mirror. As on the preceding days, +I stumbled along in front on ski, while the others, without their ski, +had to follow and support the sledges. The surface still offered filled +crevasses, though perhaps less frequently than before. Meanwhile small +patches of snow began to show themselves on the polished surface, +and soon increased in number and size, until before very long they +united and covered the unpleasant ice with a good and even layer of +snow. Then ski were put on again, and we continued our way to the +south with satisfaction.</p> + +<p>We were all rejoicing that we had now conquered this treacherous +glacier, and congratulating ourselves on having at last arrived on +the actual plateau. As we were going along, feeling pleased about +this, a ridge suddenly appeared right ahead, telling us plainly that +perhaps all our sorrows were not yet ended. The ground had begun +to sink a little, and as we came nearer we could see that we had to +cross a rather wide, but not deep, valley before we arrived under the +ridge. Great lines of hummocks and haycock-shaped pieces of ice came +in view on every side; we could see that we should have to keep our +eyes open.</p> + +<p>And now we came to the formation in the glacier that we called the +Devil's Ballroom. Little by little the covering of snow that we had +praised in such high terms disappeared, and before us lay this wide +valley, bare and gleaming. At first it went well enough; as it was +downhill, we were going at a good pace on the smooth ice. Suddenly +Wisting's sledge cut into the surface, and turned over on its +side. We all knew what had happened -- one of the runners was in +a crevasse. Wisting set to work, with the assistance of Hassel, +to raise the sledge, and take it out of its dangerous position; +meanwhile Bjaaland had got out his camera and was setting it +up. Accustomed as we were to such incidents, Hanssen and I were +watching the scene from a point a little way in advance, where we had +arrived when it happened. As the photography took rather a long time, +I assumed that the crevasse was one of the filled ones and presented no +particular danger, but that Bjaaland wanted to have a souvenir among +his photographs of the numerous crevasses and ticklish situations +we had been exposed to. As to the crack being filled up, there was +of course no need to inquire. I hailed them, and asked how they were +getting on. "Oh, all right," was the answer; "we've just finished." -- +"What does the crevasse look like?" -- "Oh, as usual," they shouted +back; "no bottom." I mention this little incident just to show how +one can grow accustomed to anything in this world. There were these +two -- Wisting and Hassel -- lying over a yawning, bottomless abyss, +and having their photograph taken; neither of them gave a thought +to the serious side of the situation. To judge from the laughter and +jokes we heard, one would have thought their position was something +quite different.</p> + +<p>When the photographer had quietly and leisurely finished his work +-- he got a remarkably good picture of the scene -- the other two +together raised the sledge, and the journey was continued. It was at +this crevasse that we entered his Majesty's Ballroom. The surface +did not really look bad. True, the snow was blown away, which made +it difficult to advance, but we did not see many cracks. There were +a good many pressure-masses, as already mentioned, but even in the +neighbourhood of these we could not see any marked disturbance. The +first sign that the surface was more treacherous than it appeared to +be was when Hanssen's leading dogs went right through the apparently +solid floor. They remained hanging by their harness, and were easily +pulled up again. When we looked through the hole they had made in the +crust, it did not give us the impression of being very dangerous, as, +2 or 3 feet below the outer crust, there lay another surface, which +appeared to consist of pulverized ice. We assumed that this lower +surface was the solid one, and that therefore there was no danger +in falling through the upper one. But Bjaaland was able to tell us +a different story. He had, in fact, fallen through the outer crust, +and was well on his way through the inner one as well, when he got +hold of a loop of rope on his sledge and saved himself in the nick of +time. Time after time the dogs now fell through, and time after time +the men went in. The effect of the open space between the two crusts +was that the ground under our feet sounded unpleasantly hollow as we +went over it. The drivers whipped up their dogs as much as they could, +and with shouts and brisk encouragement they went rapidly over the +treacherous floor. Fortunately this curious formation was not of great +extent, and we soon began to observe a change for the better as we came +up the ridge. It soon appeared that the Ballroom was the glacier's last +farewell to us. With it all irregularities ceased, and both surface +and going improved by leaps and bounds, so that before very long we +had the satisfaction of seeing that at last we had really conquered +all these unpleasant difficulties. The surface at once became fine +and even, with a splendid covering of snow everywhere, and we went +rapidly on our way to the south with a feeling of security and safety.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XII: <a name="xii"></a> +At the Pole</h2> + +<p>In lat. 87º S. -- according to dead reckoning -- we saw the last of the +land to the north-east. The atmosphere was then apparently as clear +as could be, and we felt certain that our view covered all the land +there was to be seen from that spot. We were deceived again on this +occasion, as will be seen later. Our distance that day (December 4) +was close upon twenty-five miles; height above the sea, 10,100 feet.</p> + +<p>The weather did not continue fine for long. Next day (December 5) there +was a gale from the north, and once more the whole plain was a mass +of drifting snow. In addition to this there was thick falling snow, +which blinded us and made things worse, but a feeling of security had +come over us and helped us to advance rapidly and without hesitation, +although we could see nothing. That day we encountered new surface +conditions -- big, hard snow-waves (sastrugi). These were anything +but pleasant to work among, especially when one could not see them. It +was of no use for us "forerunners" to think of going in advance under +these circumstances, as it was impossible to keep on one's feet. Three +or four paces was often the most we managed to do before falling +down. The sastrugi were very high, and often abrupt; if one came on +them unexpectedly, one required to be more than an acrobat to keep on +one's feet. The plan we found to work best in these conditions was to +let Hanssen's dogs go first; this was an unpleasant job for Hanssen, +and for his dogs too, but it succeeded, and succeeded well. An upset +here and there was, of course, unavoidable, but with a little patience +the sledge was always righted again. The drivers had as much as they +could do to support their sledges among these sastrugi, but while +supporting the sledges, they had at the same time a support for +themselves. It was worse for us who had no sledges, but by keeping +in the wake of them we could see where the irregularities lay, and +thus get over them. Hanssen deserves a special word of praise for his +driving on this surface in such weather. It is a difficult matter to +drive Eskimo dogs forward when they cannot see; but Hanssen managed it +well, both getting the dogs on and steering his course by compass. One +would not think it possible to keep an approximately right course +when the uneven ground gives such violent shocks that the needle flies +several times round the compass, and is no sooner still again than it +recommences the same dance; but when at last we got an observation, +it turned out that Hanssen had steered to a hair, for the observations +and dead reckoning agreed to a mile. In spite of all hindrances, +and of being able to see nothing, the sledge-meters showed nearly +twenty-five miles. The hypsometer showed 11,070 feet above the sea; +we had therefore reached a greater altitude than the Butcher's.</p> + +<p>December 6 brought the same weather: thick snow, sky and plain all +one, nothing to be seen. Nevertheless we made splendid progress. The +sastrugi gradually became levelled out, until the surface was +perfectly smooth; it was a relief to have even ground to go upon +once more. These irregularities that one was constantly falling over +were a nuisance; if we had met with them in our usual surroundings +it would not have mattered so much; but up here on the high ground, +where we had to stand and gasp for breath every time we rolled over, +it was certainly not pleasant.</p> + +<p>That day we passed 88º S., and camped in 88º 9' S. A great surprise +awaited us in the tent that evening. I expected to find, as on the +previous evening, that the boiling-point had fallen somewhat; in +other words, that it would show a continued rise of the ground, but +to our astonishment this was not so. The water boiled at exactly the +same temperature as on the preceding day. I tried it several times, +to convince myself that there was nothing wrong, each time with the +same result. There was great rejoicing among us all when I was able +to announce that we had arrived on the top of the plateau.</p> + +<p>December 7 began like the 6th, with absolutely thick weather, but, as +they say, you never know what the day is like before sunset. Possibly +I might have chosen a better expression than this last -- one +more in agreement with the natural conditions -- but I will let it +stand. Though for several weeks now the sun had not set, my readers +will not be so critical as to reproach me with inaccuracy. With a +light wind from the north-east, we now went southward at a good +speed over the perfectly level plain, with excellent going. The +uphill work had taken it out of our dogs, though not to any serious +extent. They had turned greedy -- there is no denying that -- and the +half kilo of pemmican they got each day was not enough to fill their +stomachs. Early and late they were looking for something -- no matter +what -- to devour. To begin with they contented themselves with such +loose objects as ski-bindings, whips, boots, and the like; but as +we came to know their proclivities, we took such care of everything +that they found no extra meals lying about. But that was not the end +of the matter. They then went for the fixed lashings of the sledges, +and -- if we had allowed it -- would very quickly have resolved the +various sledges into their component parts. But we found a way of +stopping that: every evening, on halting, the sledges were buried +in the snow, so as to hide all the lashings. That was successful; +curiously enough, they never tried to force the "snow rampart." I +may mention as a curious thing that these ravenous animals, that +devoured everything they came across, even to the ebonite points of +our ski-sticks, never made any attempt to break into the provision +cases. They lay there and went about among the sledges with their +noses just on a level with the split cases, seeing and scenting the +pemmican, without once making a sign of taking any. But if one raised +a lid, they were not long in showing themselves. Then they all came +in a great hurry and flocked about the sledges in the hope of getting +a little extra bit. I am at a loss to explain this behaviour; that +bashfulness was not at the root of it, I am tolerably certain.</p> + +<p>During the forenoon the thick, grey curtain of cloud began to grow +thinner on the horizon, and for the first time for three days we could +see a few miles about us. The feeling was something like that one has +on waking from a good nap, rubbing one's eyes and looking around. We +had become so accustomed to the grey twilight that this positively +dazzled us. Meanwhile, the upper layer of air seemed obstinately +to remain the same and to be doing its best to prevent the sun +from showing itself. We badly wanted to get a meridian altitude, +so that we could determine our latitude. Since 86º 47' S. we had +had no observation, and it was not easy to say when we should get +one. Hitherto, the weather conditions on the high ground had not +been particularly favourable. Although the prospects were not very +promising, we halted at 11 a.m. and made ready to catch the sun if +it should be kind enough to look out. Hassel and Wisting used one +sextant and artificial horizon, Hanssen and I the other set.</p> + +<p>I don't know that I have ever stood and absolutely pulled at the sun +to get it out as I did that time. If we got an observation here which +agreed with our reckoning, then it would be possible, if the worst came +to the worst, to go to the Pole on dead reckoning; but if we got none +now, it was a question whether our claim to the Pole would be admitted +on the dead reckoning we should be able to produce. Whether my pulling +helped or not, it is certain that the sun appeared. It was not very +brilliant to begin with, but, practised as we now were in availing +ourselves of even the poorest chances, it was good enough. Down it +came, was checked by all, and the altitude written down. The curtain +of cloud was rent more and more, and before we had finished our work -- +that is to say, caught the sun at its highest, and convinced ourselves +that it was descending again -- it was shining in all its glory. We had +put away our instruments and were sitting on the sledges, engaged in +the calculations. I can safely say that we were excited. What would the +result be, after marching blindly for so long and over such impossible +ground, as we had been doing? We added and subtracted, and at last +there was the result. We looked at each other in sheer incredulity: +the result was as astonishing as the most consummate conjuring trick +-- 88º 16' S., precisely to a minute the same as our reckoning, 88º +16' S. If we were forced to go to the Pole on dead reckoning, then +surely the most exacting would admit our right to do so. We put away +our observation books, ate one or two biscuits, and went at it again.</p> + +<p>We had a great piece of work before us that day nothing less than +carrying our flag farther south than the foot of man had trod. We +had our silk flag ready; it was made fast to two ski-sticks and laid +on Hanssen's sledge. I had given him orders that as soon as we had +covered the distance to 88ºS., which was Shackleton's farthest south, +the flag was to be hoisted on his sledge. It was my turn as forerunner, +and I pushed on. There was no longer any difficulty in holding one's +course; I had the grandest cloud-formations to steer by, and everything +now went like a machine. First came the forerunner for the time being, +then Hanssen, then Wisting, and finally Bjaaland. The forerunner who +was not on duty went where he liked; as a rule he accompanied one +or other of the sledges. I had long ago fallen into a reverie -- +far removed from the scene in which I was moving; what I thought +about I do not remember now, but I was so preoccupied that I had +entirely forgotten my surroundings. Then suddenly I was roused from +my dreaming by a jubilant shout, followed by ringing cheers. I turned +round quickly to discover the reason of this unwonted occurrence, +and stood speechless and overcome.</p> + +<p>I find it impossible to express the feelings that possessed me at +this moment. All the sledges had stopped, and from the foremost of +them the Norwegian flag was flying. It shook itself out, waved and +flapped so that the silk rustled; it looked wonderfully well in the +pure, clear air and the shining white surroundings. 88º 23' was past; +we were farther south than any human being had been. No other moment +of the whole trip affected me like this. The tears forced their way +to my eyes; by no effort of will could I keep them back. It was the +flag yonder that conquered me and my will. Luckily I was some way in +advance of the others, so that I had time to pull myself together and +master my feelings before reaching my comrades. We all shook hands, +with mutual congratulations; we had won our way far by holding +together, and we would go farther yet -- to the end.</p> + +<p>We did not pass that spot without according our highest tribute of +admiration to the man, who -- together with his gallant companions +-- had planted his country's flag so infinitely nearer to the +goal than any of his precursors. Sir Ernest Shackleton's name will +always be written in the annals of Antarctic exploration in letters +of fire. Pluck and grit can work wonders, and I know of no better +example of this than what that man has accomplished.</p> + +<p>The cameras of course had to come out, and we got an excellent +photograph of the scene which none of us will ever forget. We went +on a couple of miles more, to 88º 25', and then camped. The weather +had improved, and kept on improving all the time. It was now almost +perfectly calm, radiantly clear, and, under the circumstances, quite +summer-like: -0.4º F. Inside the tent it was quite sultry. This was +more than we had expected.</p> + +<p>After much consideration and discussion we had come to the conclusion +that we ought to lay down a depot -- the last one -- at this spot. The +advantages of lightening our sledges were so great that we should +have to risk it. Nor would there be any great risk attached to it, +after all, since we should adopt a system of marks that would lead +even a blind man back to the place. We had determined to mark it not +only at right angles to our course -- that is, from east to west -- +but by snow beacons at every two geographical miles to the south.</p> + +<p>We stayed here on the following day to arrange this depot. Hanssen's +dogs were real marvels, all of them; nothing seemed to have any effect +on them. They had grown rather thinner, of course, but they were still +as strong as ever. It was therefore decided not to lighten Hanssen's +sledge, but only the two others; both Wisting's and Bjaaland's teams +had suffered, especially the latter's. The reduction in weight that +was effected was considerable -- nearly 110 pounds on each of the +two sledges; there was thus about 220 pounds in the depot. The snow +here was ill-adapted for building, but we put up quite a respectable +monument all the same. It was dogs' pemmican and biscuits that +were left behind; we carried with us on the sledges provisions for +about a month. If, therefore, contrary to expectation, we should be +so unlucky as to miss this depot, we should nevertheless be fairly +sure of reaching our depot in 86º 21' before supplies ran short. The +cross-marking of the depot was done with sixty splinters of black +packing-case on each side, with 100 paces between each. Every other +one had a shred of black cloth on the top. The splinters on the east +side were all marked, so that on seeing them we should know instantly +that we were to the east of the depot. Those on the west had no marks.</p> + +<p>The warmth of the past few days seemed to have matured our frost-sores, +and we presented an awful appearance. It was Wisting, Hanssen, and +I who had suffered the worst damage in the last south-east blizzard; +the left side of our faces was one mass of sore, bathed in matter and +serum. We looked like the worst type of tramps and ruffians, and would +probably not have been recognized by our nearest relations. These +sores were a great trouble to us during the latter part of the +journey. The slightest gust of wind produced a sensation as if one's +face were being cut backwards and forwards with a blunt knife. They +lasted a long time, too; I can remember Hanssen removing the last +scab when we were coming into Hobart -- three months later. We were +very lucky in the weather during this depot work; the sun came out +all at once, and we had an excellent opportunity of taking some good +azimuth observations, the last of any use that we got on the journey.</p> + +<p>December 9 arrived with the same fine weather and sunshine. True, +we felt our frost-sores rather sharply that day, with -18.4º F. and +a little breeze dead against us, but that could not be helped. We +at once began to put up beacons -- a work which was continued with +great regularity right up to the Pole. These beacons were not so big +as those we had built down on the Barrier; we could see that they +would be quite large enough with a height of about 3 feet, as it +was, very easy to see the slightest irregularity on this perfectly +flat surface. While thus engaged we had an opportunity of becoming +thoroughly acquainted with the nature of the snow. Often -- very often +indeed -- on this part of the plateau, to the south of 88º 25', we had +difficulty in getting snow good enough -- that is, solid enough for +cutting blocks. The snow up here seemed to have fallen very quietly, +in light breezes or calms. We could thrust the tent-pole, which was +6 feet long, right down without meeting resistance, which showed that +there was no hard layer of snow. The surface was also perfectly level; +there was not a sign of sastrugi in any direction.</p> + +<p>Every step we now took in advance brought us rapidly nearer the goal; +we could feel fairly certain of reaching it on the afternoon of the +14th. It was very natural that our conversation should be chiefly +concerned with the time of arrival. None of us would admit that he +was nervous, but I am inclined to think that we all had a little +touch of that malady. What should we see when we got there? A vast, +endless plain, that no eye had yet seen and no foot yet trodden; or -- +No, it was an impossibility; with the speed at which we had travelled, +we must reach the goal first, there could be no doubt about that. And +yet -- and yet -- Wherever there is the smallest loophole, doubt creeps +in and gnaws and gnaws and never leaves a poor wretch in peace. "What +on earth is Uroa scenting?" It was Bjaaland who made this remark, +on one of these last days, when I was going by the side of his sledge +and talking to him. "And the strange thing is that he's scenting to +the south. It can never be -- " Mylius, Ring, and Suggen, showed the +same interest in the southerly direction; it was quite extraordinary +to see how they raised their heads, with every sign of curiosity, +put their noses in the air, and sniffed due south. One would really +have thought there was something remarkable to be found there.</p> + +<p>From 88º 25' S. the barometer and hypsometer indicated slowly but +surely that the plateau was beginning to descend towards the other +side. This was a pleasant surprise to us; we had thus not only found +the very summit of the plateau, but also the slope down on the far +side. This would have a very important bearing for obtaining an idea +of the construction of the whole plateau. On December 9 observations +and dead reckoning agreed within a mile. The same result again on +the 10th: observation 2 kilometres behind reckoning. The weather +and going remained about the same as on the preceding days: light +south-easterly breeze, temperature -18.4º F. The snow surface was +loose, but ski and sledges glided over it well. On the 11th, the same +weather conditions. Temperature -13º F. Observation and reckoning +again agreed exactly. Our latitude was 89º 15' S. On the 12th we +reached 89º 30', reckoning 1 kilometre behind observation. Going and +surface as good as ever. Weather splendid -- calm with sunshine. The +noon observation on the 13th gave 89º 37' S. Reckoning 89º 38.5' +S. We halted in the afternoon, after going eight geographical miles, +and camped in 89º 45', according to reckoning.</p> + +<p>The weather during the forenoon had been just as fine as before; +in the afternoon we had some snow-showers from the south-east. It +was like the eve of some great festival that night in the tent. One +could feel that a great event was at hand. Our flag was taken out +again and lashed to the same two ski-sticks as before. Then it was +rolled up and laid aside, to be ready when the time came. I was +awake several times during the night, and had the same feeling that +I can remember as a little boy on the night before Christmas Eve -- +an intense expectation of what was going to happen. Otherwise I think +we slept just as well that night as any other.</p> + +<p>On the morning of December 14 the weather was of the finest, just as +if it had been made for arriving at the Pole. I am not quite sure, +but I believe we despatched our breakfast rather more quickly than +usual and were out of the tent sooner, though I must admit that we +always accomplished this with all reasonable haste. We went in the +usual order -- the forerunner, Hanssen, Wisting, Bjaaland, and the +reserve forerunner. By noon we had reached 89º 53' by dead reckoning, +and made ready to take the rest in one stage. At 10 a.m. a light +breeze had sprung up from the south-east, and it had clouded over, +so that we got no noon altitude; but the clouds were not thick, and +from time to time we had a glimpse of the sun through them. The going +on that day was rather different from what it had been; sometimes the +ski went over it well, but at others it was pretty bad. We advanced +that day in the same mechanical way as before; not much was said, +but eyes were used all the more. Hanssen's neck grew twice as long +as before in his endeavour to see a few inches farther. I had asked +him before we started to spy out ahead for all he was worth, and he +did so with a vengeance. But, however keenly he stared, he could not +descry anything but the endless flat plain ahead of us. The dogs had +dropped their scenting, and appeared to have lost their interest in +the regions about the earth's axis.</p> + +<p>At three in the afternoon a simultaneous "Halt!" rang out from the +drivers. They had carefully examined their sledge-meters, and they +all showed the full distance -- our Pole by reckoning. The goal +was reached, the journey ended. I cannot say -- though I know it +would sound much more effective -- that the object of my life was +attained. That would be romancing rather too bare-facedly. I had +better be honest and admit straight out that I have never known any +man to be placed in such a diametrically opposite position to the +goal of his desires as I was at that moment. The regions around the +North Pole -- well, yes, the North Pole itself -- had attracted me +from childhood, and here I was at the South Pole. Can anything more +topsy-turvy be imagined?</p> + +<p>We reckoned now that we were at the Pole. Of course, every one of us +knew that we were not standing on the absolute spot; it would be an +impossibility with the time and the instruments at our disposal to +ascertain that exact spot. But we were so near it that the few miles +which possibly separated us from it could not be of the slightest +importance. It was our intention to make a circle round this camp, +with a radius of twelve and a half miles (20 kilometres), and to be +satisfied with that. After we had halted we collected and congratulated +each other. We had good grounds for mutual respect in what had been +achieved, and I think that was just the feeling that was expressed in +the firm and powerful grasps of the fist that were exchanged. After +this we proceeded to the greatest and most solemn act of the whole +journey -- the planting of our flag. Pride and affection shone in the +five pairs of eyes that gazed upon the flag, as it unfurled itself +with a sharp crack, and waved over the Pole. I had determined that +the act of planting it -- the historic event -- should be equally +divided among us all. It was not for one man to do this; it was for +all who had staked their lives in the struggle, and held together +through thick and thin. This was the only way in which I could show my +gratitude to my comrades in this desolate spot. I could see that they +understood and accepted it in the spirit in which it was offered. Five +weather-beaten, frost-bitten fists they were that grasped the pole, +raised the waving flag in the air, and planted it as the first at the +geographical South Pole. "Thus we plant thee, beloved flag, at the +South Pole, and give to the plain on which it lies the name of King +Haakon VII.'s Plateau." That moment will certainly be remembered by +all of us who stood there.</p> + +<p>One gets out of the way of protracted ceremonies in those regions +-- the shorter they are the better. Everyday life began again at +once. When we had got the tent up, Hanssen set about slaughtering +Helge, and it was hard for him to have to part from his best +friend. Helge had been an uncommonly useful and good-natured dog; +without making any fuss he had pulled from morning to night, and had +been a shining example to the team. But during the last week he had +quite fallen away, and on our arrival at the Pole there was only a +shadow of the old Helge left. He was only a drag on the others, and +did absolutely no work. One blow on the skull, and Helge had ceased +to live. "What is death to one is food to another," is a saying that +can scarcely find a better application than these dog meals. Helge +was portioned out on the spot, and within a couple of hours there +was nothing left of him but his teeth and the tuft at the end of his +tail. This was the second of our eighteen dogs that we had lost. The +Major, one of Wisting's fine dogs, left us in 88)deg) 25' S., and +never returned. He was fearfully worn out, and must have gone away +to die. We now had sixteen dogs left, and these we intended to divide +into two equal teams, leaving Bjaaland's sledge behind.</p> + +<p>Of course, there was a festivity in the tent that evening -- not that +champagne corks were popping and wine flowing -- no, we contented +ourselves with a little piece of seal meat each, and it tasted well +and did us good. There was no other sign of festival indoors. Outside +we heard the flag flapping in the breeze. Conversation was lively in +the tent that evening, and we talked of many things. Perhaps, too, +our thoughts sent messages home of what we had done.</p> + +<p>Everything we had with us had now to be marked with the words "South +Pole" and the date, to serve afterwards as souvenirs. Wisting proved +to be a first-class engraver, and many were the articles he had to +mark. Tobacco -- in the form of smoke -- had hitherto never made its +appearance in the tent. From time to time I had seen one or two of +the others take a quid, but now these things were to be altered. I +had brought with me an old briar pipe, which bore inscriptions from +many places in the Arctic regions, and now I wanted it marked "South +Pole." When I produced my pipe and was about to mark it, I received +an unexpected gift Wisting offered me tobacco for the rest of the +journey. He had some cakes of plug in his kit-bag, which he would +prefer to see me smoke. Can anyone grasp what such an offer meant at +such a spot, made to a man who, to tell the truth, is very fond of a +smoke after meals? There are not many who can understand it fully. I +accepted the offer, jumping with joy, and on the way home I had a pipe +of fresh, fine-cut plug every evening. Ah! that Wisting, he spoiled +me entirely. Not only did he give me tobacco, but every evening -- +and I must confess I yielded to the temptation after a while, and +had a morning smoke as well -- he undertook the disagreeable work of +cutting the plug and filling my pipe in all kinds of weather.</p> + +<p>But we did not let our talk make us forget other things. As we had got +no noon altitude, we should have to try and take one at midnight. The +weather had brightened again, and it looked as if midnight would be +a good time for the observation. We therefore crept into our bags to +get a little nap in the intervening hours. In good time -- soon after +11 p.m. -- we were out again, and ready to catch the sun; the weather +was of the best, and the opportunity excellent. We four navigators +all had a share in it, as usual, and stood watching the course of the +sun. This was a labour of patience, as the difference of altitude +was now very slight. The result at which we finally arrived was of +great interest, as it clearly shows how unreliable and valueless a +single observation like this is in these regions. At 12.30 a.m. we +put our instruments away, well satisfied with our work, and quite +convinced that it was the midnight altitude that we had observed. The +calculations which were carried out immediately afterwards gave us 89º +56' S. We were all well pleased with this result.</p> + +<p>The arrangement now was that we should encircle this camp with a +radius of about twelve and a half miles. By encircling I do not, of +course, mean that we should go round in a circle with this radius; +that would have taken us days, and was not to be thought of. The +encircling was accomplished in this way: Three men went out in +three different directions, two at right angles to the course we +had been steering, and one in continuation of that course. To carry +out this work I had chosen Wisting, Hassel, and Bjaaland. Having +concluded our observations, we put the kettle on to give ourselves +a drop of chocolate; the pleasure of standing out there in rather +light attire had not exactly put warmth into our bodies. As we were +engaged in swallowing the scalding drink, Bjaaland suddenly observed: +"I'd like to tackle this encircling straight away. We shall have +lots of time to sleep when we get back." Hassel and Wisting were +quite of the same opinion, and it was agreed that they should start +the work immediately. Here we have yet another example of the good +spirit that prevailed in our little community. We had only lately +come in from our day's work -- a march of about eighteen and a half +miles -- and now they were asking to be allowed to go on another +twenty-five miles. It seemed as if these fellows could never be +tired. We therefore turned this meal into a little breakfast -- +that is to say, each man ate what he wanted of his bread ration, +and then they began to get ready for the work. First, three small +bags of light windproof stuff were made, and in each of these was +placed a paper, giving the position of our camp. In addition, each +of them carried a large square flag of the same dark brown material, +which could be easily seen at a distance. As flag-poles we elected +to use our spare sledge-runners, which were both long -- 12 feet -- +and strong, and which we were going to take off here in any case, +to lighten the sledges as much as possible for the return journey.</p> + +<p>Thus equipped, and with thirty biscuits as an extra ration, the three +men started off in the directions laid down. Their march was by no +means free from danger, and does great honour to those who undertook +it, not merely without raising the smallest objection, but with the +greatest keenness. Let us consider for a moment the risk they ran. Our +tent on the boundless plain, without marks of any kind, may very well +be compared with a needle in a haystack. From this the three men were +to steer out for a distance of twelve and a half miles. Compasses would +have been good things to take on such a walk, but our sledge-compasses +were too heavy and unsuitable for carrying. They therefore had to +go without. They had the sun to go by, certainly, when they started, +but who could say how long it would last? The weather was then fine +enough, but it was impossible to guarantee that no sudden change would +take place. If by bad luck the sun should be hidden, then their own +tracks might help them. But to trust to tracks in these regions is a +dangerous thing. Before you know where you are the whole plain may be +one mass of driving snow, obliterating all tracks as soon as they are +made. With the rapid changes of weather we had so often experienced, +such a thing was not impossible. That these three risked their lives +that morning, when they left the tent at 2.30, there can be no doubt at +all, and they all three knew it very well. But if anyone thinks that +on this account they took a solemn farewell of us who stayed behind, +he is much mistaken. Not a bit; they all vanished in their different +directions amid laughter and chaff.</p> + +<p>The first thing we did -- Hanssen and I -- was to set about arranging +a lot of trifling matters; there was something to be done here, +something there, and above all we had to be ready for the series of +observations we were to carry out together, so as to get as accurate +a determination of our position as possible. The first observation +told us at once how necessary this was. For it turned out that this, +instead of giving us a greater altitude than the midnight observation, +gave us a smaller one, and it was then clear that we had gone out of +the meridian we thought we were following. Now the first thing to be +done was to get our north and south line and latitude determined, +so that we could find our position once more. Luckily for us, the +weather looked as if it would hold. We measured the sun's altitude at +every hour from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m., and from these observations found, +with some degree of certainty, our latitude and the direction of +the meridian.</p> + +<p>By nine in the morning we began to expect the return of our comrades; +according to our calculation they should then have covered the distance +-- twenty-five miles. It was not till ten o'clock that Hanssen made +out the first black dot on the horizon, and not long after the second +and third appeared. We both gave a sigh of relief as they came on; +almost simultaneously the three arrived at the tent. We told them +the result of our observations up to that time; it looked as if our +camp was in about 89º 54' 30'' S., and that with our encircling we +had therefore included the actual Pole. With this result we might +very well have been content, but as the weather was so good and gave +the impression that it would continue so, and our store of provisions +proved on examination to be very ample, we decided to go on for the +remaining ten kilometres (five and a half geographical miles), and +get our position determined as near to the Pole as possible. Meanwhile +the three wanderers turned in -- not so much because they were tired, +as because it was the right thing to do -- and Hanssen and I continued +the series of observations.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon we again went very carefully through our provision +supply before discussing the future. The result was that we had food +enough for ourselves and the dogs for eighteen days. The surviving +sixteen dogs were divided into two teams of eight each, and the +contents of Bjaaland's sledge were shared between Hanssen's and +Wisting's. The abandoned sledge was set upright in the snow, and proved +to be a splendid mark. The sledge-meter was screwed to the sledge, +and we left it there; our other two were quite sufficient for the +return journey; they had all shown themselves very accurate. A couple +of empty provision cases were also left behind. I wrote in pencil on +a piece of case the information that our tent -- "Polheim" -- would +be found five and a half geographical miles north-west quarter west +by compass from the sledge. Having put all these things in order the +same day, we turned in, very well satisfied.</p> + +<p>Early next morning, December 16, we were on our feet again. Bjaaland, +who had now left the company of the drivers and been received with +jubilation into that of the forerunners, was immediately entrusted +with the honourable task of leading the expedition forward to the Pole +itself. I assigned this duty, which we all regarded as a distinction, +to him as a mark of gratitude to the gallant Telemarkers for their +pre-eminent work in the advancement of ski spot. The leader that +day had to keep as straight as a line, and if possible to follow the +direction of our meridian. A little way after Bjaaland came Hassel, +then Hanssen, then Wisting, and I followed a good way behind. I could +thus check the direction of the march very accurately, and see that no +great deviation was made. Bjaaland on this occasion showed himself a +matchless forerunner; he went perfectly straight the whole time. Not +once did he incline to one side or the other, and when we arrived +at the end of the distance, we could still clearly see the sledge we +had set up and take its bearing. This showed it to be absolutely in +the right direction.</p> + +<p>It was 11 a.m. when we reached our destination. While some of us +were putting up the tent, others began to get everything ready for +the coming observations. A solid snow pedestal was put up, on which +the artificial horizon was to be placed, and a smaller one to rest +the sextant on when it was not in use. At 11.30 a.m. the first +observation was taken. We divided ourselves into two parties -- +Hanssen and I in one, Hassel and Wisting in the other. While one +party slept, the other took the observations, and the watches were +of six hours each. The weather was altogether grand, though the sky +was not perfectly bright the whole time. A very light, fine, vaporous +curtain would spread across the sky from time to time, and then quickly +disappear again. This film of cloud was not thick enough to hide the +sun, which we could see the whole time, but the atmosphere seemed +to be disturbed. The effect of this was that the sun appeared not to +change its altitude for several hours, until it suddenly made a jump.</p> + +<p>Observations were now taken every hour through the whole +twenty-four. It was very strange to turn in at 6 p.m., and then on +turning out again at midnight to find the sun apparently still at +the same altitude, and then once more at 6 a.m. to see it still no +higher. The altitude had changed, of course, but so slightly that it +was imperceptible with the naked eye. To us it appeared as though the +sun made the circuit of the heavens at exactly the same altitude. The +times of day that I have given here are calculated according to the +meridian of Framheim; we continued to reckon our time from this. The +observations soon told us that we were not on the absolute Pole, +but as close to it as we could hope to get with our instruments. The +observations, which have been submitted to Mr. Anton Alexander, +will be published, and the result given later in this book.</p> + +<p>On December 17 at noon we had completed our observations, and it is +certain that we had done all that could be done. In order if possible +to come a few inches nearer to the actual Pole, Hanssen and Bjaaland +went out four geographical miles (seven kilometres) in the direction +of the newly found meridian.</p> + +<p>Bjaaland astonished me at dinner that day. Speeches had not hitherto +been a feature of this journey, but now Bjaaland evidently thought the +time had come, and surprised us all with a really fine oration. My +amazement reached its culmination when, at the conclusion of his +speech, he produced a cigar-case full of cigars and offered it +round. A cigar at the Pole! What do you say to that? But it did not end +there. When the cigars had gone round, there were still four left. I +was quite touched when he handed the case and cigars to me with the +words: "Keep this to remind you of the Pole." I have taken good care +of the case, and shall preserve it as one of the many happy signs of my +comrades' devotion on this journey. The cigars I shared out afterwards, +on Christmas Eve, and they gave us a visible mark of that occasion.</p> + +<p>When this festival dinner at the Pole was ended, we began our +preparations for departure. First we set up the little tent we had +brought with us in case we should be compelled to divide into two +parties. It had been made by our able sailmaker, Rionne, and was of +very thin windproof gabardine. Its drab colour made it easily visible +against the white surface. Another pole was lashed to the tent-pole, +making its total height about 13 feet. On the top of this a little +Norwegian flag was lashed fast, and underneath it a pennant, on which +"Fram" was painted. The tent was well secured with guy-ropes on all +sides. Inside the tent, in a little bag, I left a letter, addressed +to H.M. the King, giving information of what we had accomplished. The +way home was a long one, and so many things might happen to make it +impossible for us to give an account of our expedition. Besides this +letter, I wrote a short epistle to Captain Scott, who, I assumed, +would be the first to find the tent. Other things we left there were +a sextant with a glass horizon, a hypsometer case, three reindeer-skin +foot-bags, some kamiks and mits.</p> + +<p>When everything had been laid inside, we went into the tent, +one by one, to write our names on a tablet we had fastened to the +tent-pole. On this occasion we received the congratulations of our +companions on the successful result, for the following messages were +written on a couple of strips of leather, sewed to the tent</p> + +<p>"Good luck," and "Welcome to 90º." These good wishes, which we +suddenly discovered, put us in very good spirits. They were signed +by Beck and Rönne. They had good faith in us. When we had finished +this we came out, and the tent-door was securely laced together, +so that there was no danger of the wind getting a hold on that side.</p> + +<p>And so good-bye to Polheim. It was a solemn moment when we bared +our heads and bade farewell to our home and our flag. And then +the travelling tent was taken down and the sledges packed. Now the +homeward journey was to begin -- homeward, step by step, mile after +mile, until the whole distance was accomplished. We drove at once into +our old tracks and followed them. Many were the times we turned to +send a last look to Polheim. The vaporous, white air set in again, +and it was not long before the last of Polheim, our little flag, +disappeared from view.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XIII: <a name="xiii"></a> +The Return to Framheim</h2> + +<p>The going was splendid and all were in good spirits, so we went along +at a great pace. One would almost have thought the dogs knew they were +homeward bound. A mild, summer-like wind, with a temperature of -22º +F., was our last greeting from the Pole.</p> + +<p>When we came to our last camp, where the sledge was left, we stopped +and took a few things with us. From this point we came into the line +of beacons. Our tracks had already become very indistinct, but, thanks +to his excellent sight, Bjaaland kept in them quite well. The beacons, +however, served their purpose so satisfactorily that the tracks were +almost superfluous. Although these beacons were not more than about 3 +feet high, they were extremely conspicuous on the level surface. When +the sun was on them, they shone like electric lighthouses; and when +the sun was on the other side, they looked so dark in the shadow that +one would have taken them for black rocks. We intended in future to +travel at night; the advantages of this were many and great. In the +first place, we should have the sun behind us, which meant a good deal +to our eyes. Going against the sun on a snow surface like this tells +fearfully on the eyes, even if one has good snow-goggles; but with +the sun at one's back it is only play. Another great advantage -- +which we did not reap till later -- was that it gave us the warmest +part of the twenty-four hours in the tent, during which time we had +an opportunity of drying wet clothes, and so on. This last advantage +was, however, a doubtful one, as we shall see in due course.</p> + +<p>It was a great comfort to turn our backs to the south. The wind, +which had nearly always been in this quarter, had often been very +painful to our cracked faces; now we should always have it at our +backs, and it would help us on our way, besides giving our faces +time to heal. Another thing we were longing for was to come down +to the Barrier again, so that we could breathe freely. Up here we +were seldom able to draw a good long breath; if we only had to say +"Yes," we had to do it in two instalments. The asthmatic condition in +which we found ourselves during our six weeks' stay on the plateau +was anything but pleasant. We had fixed fifteen geographical miles +(seventeen and three-eighths statute miles) as a suitable day's march +on the homeward journey. We had, of course, many advantages now as +compared with the southward journey, which would have enabled us to +do longer marches than this; but we were afraid of overworking the +dogs, and possibly using them up before we had gone very far, if we +attempted too great a distance daily. It soon proved, however, that +we had underestimated our dogs' powers; it only took us five hours +to cover the appointed distance, and our rest was therefore a long one.</p> + +<p>On December 19 we killed the first dog on the homeward trip. This was +Lasse, my own favourite dog. He had worn himself out completely, and +was no longer worth anything. He was divided into fifteen portions, +as nearly equal as possible, and given to his companions. They had +now learnt to set great store by fresh meat, and it is certain that +the extra feeds, like this one, that took place from time to time +on the way home, had no small share in the remarkably successful +result. They seemed to benefit by these meals of fresh meat for +several days afterwards, and worked much more easily.</p> + +<p>December 20 began with bitter weather, a breeze from the south-east, +grey and thick. We lost the trail, and for some time had to go by +compass. But as usual it suddenly cleared, and once more the plain +lay before us, light and warm. Yes, too warm it was. We had to take +off everything -- nearly -- and still the sweat poured off us. It was +not for long that we were uncertain of the way: our excellent beacons +did us brilliant service, and one after another they came up on the +horizon, flashed and shone, and drew us on to our all-important depot +in 88º 25' S. We were now going slightly uphill, but so slightly that +it was unnoticeable. The hypsometer and barometer, however, were +not to be deceived, and both fell in precisely the same degree as +they had risen before. Even if we had not exactly noticed the rise, +the feeling of it was present. It may perhaps be called imagination, +but I certainly thought I could notice the rise by my breathing.</p> + +<p>Our appetite had increased alarmingly during the last few days. It +appeared that we ski-runners evinced a far greater voracity than +the drivers. There were days -- only a few days, be it said -- +when I believe any of us three -- Bjaaland, Hassel, and myself -- +would have swallowed pebbles without winking. The drivers never +showed such signs of starvation. It has occurred to me that this may +possibly have been due to their being able to lean on the sledges +as they went along, and thus have a rest and support which we had +to do without. It seems little enough simply to rest one's hand on +a sledge on the march, but in the long run, day after day, it may +perhaps make itself felt. Fortunately we were so well supplied that +when this sensation of hunger came over us, we could increase our +daily rations. On leaving the Pole we added to our pemmican ration, +with the result that our wild-beast appetites soon gave way and +shrank to an ordinary good, everyday twist. Our daily programme on +entering upon the return journey was so arranged that we began to get +breakfast ready at 6 p.m., and by 8 p.m. we were usually quite ready +to start the day's march. An hour or so after midnight the fifteen +geographical miles were accomplished, and we could once more put +up our tent, cook our food, and seek our rest. But this rest soon +became so insufferably long. And then there was the fearful heat -- +considering the circumstances -- which often made us get out of our +sleeping-bags and lie with nothing over us. These rests of twelve, +fourteen, sometimes as much as sixteen hours, were what most tried our +patience during the early part of the return journey. We could see +so well that all this rest was unnecessary, but still we kept it up +as long as we were on the high ground. Our conversation at this time +used to turn very often on the best way of filling up these long, +unnecessary waits.</p> + +<p>That day -- December 20 -- Per -- good, faithful, conscientious Per -- +broke down utterly and had to be taken on the sledge the last part +of the way. On arrival at the camping-ground he had his reward. A +little blow of the back of the axe was enough for him; without making +a sound the worn-out animal collapsed. In him Wisting lost one of +his best dogs. He was a curious animal -- always went about quietly +and peaceably, and never took part in the others' battles; from his +looks and behaviour one would have judged him, quite mistakenly, to +be a queer sort of beast who was good for nothing. But when he was +in harness he showed what he could do. Without needing any shouts or +cuts of the whip, he put himself into it from morning to night, and was +priceless as a draught dog. But, like others of the same character, he +could not keep it going any longer; he collapsed, was killed and eaten.</p> + +<p>Christmas Eve was rapidly approaching. For us it could not be +particularly festive, but we should have to try to make as much of it +as circumstances would permit. We ought, therefore, to reach our depot +that evening, so as to keep Christmas with a dish of porridge. The +night before Christmas Eve we slaughtered Svartflekken. There was no +mourning on this occasion Svartflekken was one of Hassel's dogs, and +had always been a reprobate. I find the following in my diary, written +the same evening: "Slaughtered Svartflekken this evening. He would +not do any more, although there was not much wrong with his looks. Bad +character. If a man, he would have ended in penal servitude." He was +comparatively fat, and was consumed with evident satisfaction.</p> + +<p>Christmas Eve came; the weather was rather changeable -- now overcast, +now clear -- when we set out at 8 p.m. the night before. We had not far +to go before reaching our depot. At 12 midnight we arrived there in the +most glorious weather, calm and warm. Now we had the whole of Christmas +Eve before us, and could enjoy it at our ease. Our depot was at once +taken down and divided between the two sledges. All crumbs of biscuit +were carefully collected by Wisting, the cook for the day, and put into +a bag. This was taken into the tent and vigorously beaten and kneaded; +the result was pulverized biscuit. With this product and a sausage of +dried milk, Wisting succeeded in making a capital dish of Christmas +porridge. I doubt whether anyone at home enjoyed his Christmas dinner +so much as we did that morning in the tent. One of Bjaaland's cigars +to follow brought a festival spirit over the whole camp.</p> + +<p>Another thing we had to rejoice about that day was that we had again +reached the summit of the plateau, and after two or three more days' +march would begin to go downhill, finally reaching the Barrier and our +old haunts. Our daily march had hitherto been interrupted by one or +two halts; we stopped to rest both the dogs and ourselves. On Christmas +Eve we instituted a new order of things, and did the whole distance -- +fifteen geographical miles -- without a stop. We liked this arrangement +best, after all, and it seemed as if the dogs did the same. As a rule +it was hard to begin the march again after the rest; one got rather +stiff lazy, too, perhaps -- and had to become supple again.</p> + +<p>On the 26th we passed 88º S., going well. The surface appeared to have +been exposed to powerful sunshine since we left it, as it had become +quite polished. Going over these polished levels was like crossing +smooth ice, but with the important difference that here the dogs had +a good foothold. This time we sighted high land even in 88º, and it +had great surprises in store for us. It was clear that this was the +same mighty range running to the south-east as we had seen before, +but this time it stretched considerably farther to the south. The +weather was radiantly clear, and we could see by the land that the +range of vision was very great. Summit after summit the range extended +to the south-east, until it gradually disappeared; but to judge from +the atmosphere, it was continued beyond our range of vision in the +same direction. That this chain traverses the Antarctic continent I +therefore consider beyond a doubt. Here we had a very good example +of how deceptive the atmosphere is in these regions. On a day that +appeared perfectly clear we had lost sight of the mountains in 87º, +and now we saw them as far as the eye could reach in 88º. That we +were astonished is a mild expression. We looked and looked, entirely +unable to recognize our position; little did we guess that the huge +mountain-mass that stood up so high and clear on the horizon was Mount +Thorvald Nilsen. How utterly different it had looked in the misty air +when we said good-bye to it. It is amusing to read my diary of this +time and see how persistently we took the bearings of land every day, +and thought it was new. We did not recognize that vast mountain until +Mount Helmer Hanssen began to stick up out of the plain.</p> + +<p>On December 28 we left the summit of the plateau, and began the +descent. Although the incline was not perceptible to the naked eye, +its effect could easily be seen in the dogs. Wisting now used a sail on +his sledge, and was thus able to keep up with Hanssen. If anyone had +seen the procession that came marching over the plateau at that time, +he would hardly have thought we had been out for seventy days at a +stretch, for we came at a swinging pace. We always had the wind at +our backs, with sunshine and warmth the whole time. There was never +a thought of using the whip now; the dogs were bursting with health, +and tugged at their harness to get away. It was a hard time for our +worthy forerunner; he often had to spurt as much as he could to keep +clear of Hanssen's dogs. Wisting in full sail, with his dogs howling +for joy, came close behind. Hassel had his work cut out to follow, +and, indeed, I had the same. The surface was absolutely polished, +and for long stretches at a time we could push ourselves along with +our sticks. The dogs were completely changed since we had left the +Pole; strange as it may sound, it is nevertheless true that they +were putting on flesh day by day, and getting quite fat. I believe +it must have been feeding them on fresh meat and pemmican together +that did this. We were again able to increase our ration of pemmican +from December 28; the daily ration was 1 pound (450 grams) per man, +and we could not manage more -- at least, I think not.</p> + +<p>On December 29 we went downhill more and more, and it was indeed +tough work being a ski-runner. The drivers stood so jauntily by the +side of their sledges, letting themselves be carried over the plain +at a phenomenal pace. The surface consisted of sastrugi, alternating +with smooth stretches like ice. Heaven help me, how we ski-runners +had to struggle to keep up! It was all very well for Bjaaland; he +had flown faster on even worse ground. But for Hassel and me it was +different. I saw Hassel put out, now an arm; now a leg, and make the +most desperate efforts to keep on his feet. Fortunately I could not +see myself; if I had been able to, I am sure I should have been in +fits of laughter. Early that day Mount Helmer Hanssen appeared. The +ground now went in great undulations -- a thing we had not noticed +in the mist when we were going south. So high were these undulations +that they suddenly hid the view from us. The first we saw of Mount +Hanssen was from the top of one of these big waves; it then looked +like the top of a pressure hummock that was just sticking up above +the surface. At first we did not understand at all what it was; it +was not till the next day that we really grasped it, when the pointed +blocks of ice covering the top of the mountain came into view. As I +have said, it was only then that we made sure of being on the right +course; all the rest of the land that we saw was so entirely strange +to us. We recognized absolutely nothing.</p> + +<p>On the 30th we passed 87º S., and were thus rapidly nearing the Devil's +Ballroom and Glacier. The next day was brilliantly fine-temperature +-2.2º F. -- with a good breeze right aft. To our great joy, we got +sight of the land around the Butcher's Shop. It was still a long way +off, of course, but was miraged up in the warm, sunny air. We were +extraordinarily lucky on our homeward trip; we escaped the Devil's +Ballroom altogether.</p> + +<p>On January 1 we ought, according to our reckoning, to reach the Devil's +Glacier, and this held good. We could see it at a great distance; +huge hummocks and ice-waves towered into the sky. But what astonished +us was that between these disturbances and on the far side of them, +we seemed to see an even, unbroken plain, entirely unaffected by the +broken surface. Mounts Hassel, Wisting, and Bjaaland, lay as we had +left them; they were easy to recognize when we came a little nearer +to them. Now Mount Helmer Hanssen again towered high into the air; +it flashed and sparkled like diamonds as it lay bathed in the rays of +the morning sun. We assumed that we had come nearer to this range than +when we were going south, and that this was the reason of our finding +the ground so changed. When we were going south, it certainly looked +impassable between us and the mountains; but who could tell? Perhaps +in the middle of all the broken ground that we then saw there was a +good even stretch, and that we had now been lucky enough to stumble +upon it. But it was once more the atmosphere that deceived us, as we +found out on the following day, for instead of being nearer the range +we had come farther out from it, and this was the reason of our only +getting a little strip of this undesirable glacier.</p> + +<p>We had our camp that evening in the middle of a big, filled-up +crevasse. We were a trifle anxious as to what kind of surface we +should find farther on; that these few hummocks and old crevasses +were all the glacier had to offer us this time, was more than we +dared to hope. But the 2nd came, and brought -- thank God! -- no +disappointment. With incredible luck we had slipped past all those +ugly and dangerous places, and now, before we knew where we were, +we found ourselves safe and sound on the plain below the glacier. The +weather was not first-rate when we started at seven in the evening. It +was fairly thick, and we could only just distinguish the top of Mount +Bjaaland. This was bad, as we were now in the neighbourhood of our +depot, and would have liked clear weather to find out where it lay; +but instead of clearing, as we hoped, it grew thicker and thicker, +and when we had gone about six and three-quarter miles, it was so bad +that we thought it best to stop and wait for a while. We had all the +time been going on the erroneous assumption that we had come too far to +the east-that is, too near the mountains -- and under the circumstances +-- in the short gleams that had come from time to time -- we had not +been able to recognize the ground below the glacier. According to +our idea, we were on the east of the depot. The bearings, which had +been taken in thick air, and were now to guide us in this heavy mist, +gave no result whatever. There was no depot to be seen.</p> + +<p>We had just swallowed the grateful warm pemmican when the sun suddenly +showed itself. I don't think the camp was ever broken and the sledges +packed in such a short time. From the moment we jumped out of our +bags till the sledges were ready, it only took us fifteen minutes, +which is incredibly quick. "What on earth is that shining over there +through the fog?" The question came from one of the lads. The mist +had divided, and was rolling away on both sides; in the western bank +something big and white peeped through -- along ridge running north +and south. Hurrah! it's Helland Hansen. Can't possibly be anything +else. Our only landmark on the west. We all shouted with joy on meeting +this old acquaintance. But in the direction of the depot the fog hung +thick. We held a brief consultation, and agreed to let it go, to steer +for the Butcher's and put on the pace. We had food enough, anyhow. No +sooner said than done, and we started off. It rapidly cleared, and +then, on our way towards Helland Hansen, we found out that we had +come, not too far to the east, but too far to the west. But to turn +round and begin to search for our depot was not to our liking. Below +Mount Helland Hansen we came up on a fairly high ridge. We had now +gone our fixed distance, and so halted.</p> + +<p>Behind us, in the brightest, clearest weather, lay the glacier, as we +had seen it for the first time on our way to the south: break after +break, crevasse after crevasse. But in among all this nastiness there +ran a white, unbroken line, the very path we had stood and looked at a +few weeks back. And directly below that white stripe we knew, as sure +as anything could be, that our depot lay. We stood there expressing our +annoyance rather forcibly at the depot having escaped us so easily, +and talking of how jolly it would have been to have picked up all +our depots from the plain we had strewed them over. Dead tired as I +felt that evening, I had not the least desire to go back the fifteen +miles that separated us from it. "If anybody would like to make the +trip, he shall have many thanks." They all wanted to make it -- all +as one man. There was no lack of volunteers in that company. I chose +Hanssen and Bjaaland. They took nearly everything off the sledge, +and went away with it empty.</p> + +<p>It was then five in the morning. At three in the afternoon they +came back to the tent, Bjaaland running in front, Hanssen driving +the sedge. That was a notable feat, both for men and dogs. Hanssen, +Bjaaland, and that team had covered about fifty miles that day, +at an average rate of three to three and a half miles an hour. They +had found the depot without much search. Their greatest difficulty +had been in the undulating surface; for long stretches at a time +they were in the hollows between the waves, which shut in their view +entirely. Ridge succeeded ridge, endlessly. We had taken care that +everything was ready for their return -- above all great quantities +of water. Water, water was the first thing, and generally the last, +that was in request. When their thirst was a little quenched, +great interest was shown in the pemmican. While these two were +being well looked after, the depot they had brought in was divided +between the two sledges, and in a short time all was ready for our +departure. Meanwhile, the weather had been getting finer and finer, +and before us lay the mountains, sharp and clear. We thought we +recognized Fridtjof Nansen and Don Pedro Christophersen, and took +good bearings of them in case the fog should return. With most of us +the ideas of day and night began to get rather mixed. "Six o'clock," +someone would answer, when asked the time. "Yes, in the morning," +remarks the other. "No; what are you talking about?" answers the +first one again; "it's evening, of course." The date was hopeless; +it was a good thing if we remembered the year. Only when writing in +our diaries and observation books did we come across such things as +dates; while at work we had not the remotest idea of them.</p> + +<p>Splendid weather it was when we turned out on the morning of January +3. We had now agreed to go as it suited us, and take no notice of day +or night; for some time past we had all been sick of the long hours +of rest, and wanted to break them up at any price. As I have said, +the weather could not have been finer brilliantly clear and a dead +calm. The temperature of -2.2º F. felt altogether like summer in +this bright, still air. Before we began our march all unnecessary +clothes were taken off and put on the sledges. It almost looked as +if everything would be considered superfluous, and the costume in +which we finally started would no doubt have been regarded as somewhat +unseemly in our latitudes. We smiled and congratulated ourselves that +at present no ladies had reached the Antarctic regions, or they might +have objected to our extremely comfortable and serviceable costume. The +high land now stood out still more sharply. It was very interesting +to see in these conditions the country we had gone through on, +the southward trip in the thickest blizzard. We had then been going +along the foot of this immense mountain chain without a suspicion +of how near we were to it, or how colossal it was. The ground was +fortunately quite undisturbed in this part. I say fortunately, as +Heaven knows what would have happened to us if we had been obliged +to cross a crevassed surface in such weather as we then had. Perhaps +we should have managed it -- perhaps not.</p> + +<p>The journey before us was a stiff one, as the Butcher's lay 2,680 +feet higher than the place where we were. We had been expecting to +stumble upon one of our beacons before long, but this did not happen +until we had gone twelve and a half miles. Then one of them suddenly +came in sight, and was greeted with joy. We knew well enough that we +were on the right track, but an old acquaintance like this was very +welcome all the same. The sun had evidently been at work up here while +we were in the south, as some of the beacons were quite bent over, +and great icicles told us clearly enough how powerful the sunshine +had been. After a march of about twenty-five miles we halted at the +beacon we had built right under the hill, where we had been forced +to stop by thick weather on November 25.</p> + +<p>January 4 was one of the days to which we looked forward with anxiety, +as we were then due at our depot at the Butcher's, and had to find +it. This depot, which consisted of the finest, fresh dogs' flesh, was +of immense importance to us. Not only had our animals got into the way +of preferring this food to pemmican, but, what was of still greater +importance, it had an extremely good effect on the dogs' state of +health. No doubt our pemmican was good enough -- indeed, it could not +have been better -- but a variation of diet is a great consideration, +and seems, according to my experience, to mean even more to the dogs +than to the men on a long journey like this. On former occasions I have +seen dogs refuse pemmican, presumably because they were tired of it, +having no variety; the result was that the dogs grew thin and weak, +although we had food enough. The pemmican I am referring to on that +occasion was made for human use, so that their distaste cannot have +been due to the quality.</p> + +<p>It was 1.15 a.m. when we set out. We had not had a long sleep, but it +was very important to avail ourselves of this fine, clear weather while +it lasted; we knew by experience that up here in the neighbourhood of +the Butcher's the weather was not to be depended upon. From the outward +journey we knew that the distance from the beacon where our camp was +to the depot at the Butcher's was thirteen and a half miles. We had +not put up more than two beacons on this stretch, but the ground was +of such a nature that we thought we could not go wrong. That it was +not so easy to find the way, in spite of the beacons, we were soon to +discover. In the fine, clear weather, and with Hanssen's sharp eyes, +we picked up both our beacons. Meanwhile we were astonished at the +appearance of the mountains. As I have already mentioned, we thought +the weather was perfectly clear when we reached the Butcher's for +the first time, on November 20. I then took a bearing from the tent +of the way we had come up on to the plateau between the mountains, +and carefully recorded it. After passing our last beacon, when we +were beginning to approach the Butcher's -- as we reckoned -- we were +greatly surprised at the aspect of our surroundings. Last time -- +on November 20 -- we had seen mountains on the west and north, but +a long way off: Now the whole of that part of the horizon seemed +to be filled with colossal mountain masses, which were right over +us. What in the world was the meaning of this? Was it witchcraft? I +am sure I began to think so for a moment. I would readily have taken +my most solemn oath that I had never seen that landscape before in my +life. We had now gone the full distance, and according to the beacons +we had passed, we ought to be on the spot. This was very strange; in +the direction in which I had taken the bearing of our ascent, we now +only saw the side of a perfectly unknown mountain, sticking up from +the plain. There could be absolutely no way down in that precipitous +wall. Only on the north-west did the ground give the impression of +allowing a descent; there a natural depression seemed to be formed, +running down towards the Barrier, which we could see far, far away.</p> + +<p>We halted and discussed the situation. "Hullo!" Hanssen suddenly +exclaimed, "somebody has been here before." -- "Yes," broke in Wisting; +"I'm hanged if that isn't my broken ski that I stuck up by the +depot." So it was Wisting's broken ski that brought us out of this +unpleasant situation. It was a good thing he put it there -- very +thoughtful, in any case. I now examined the place with the glasses, +and by the side of a snow mound, which proved to be our depot, but +might easily have escaped our notice, we could see the ski sticking +up out of the snow. We cheerfully set our course for the spot, but +did not reach it until we had gone three miles.</p> + +<p>There was rejoicing in our little band when we arrived and saw that +what we had considered the most important point of our homeward +journey had been reached. It was not so much for the sake of the food +it contained that we considered it so necessary to find this spot, +as for discovering the way down to the Barrier again. And now that +we stood there, we recognized this necessity more than ever. For +although we now knew, from our bearings, exactly where the descent +lay, we could see nothing of it at all. The plateau there seemed to go +right up to the mountain, without any opening towards the lower ground +beyond; and yet the compass told us that such an opening must exist, +and would take us down. The mountain, on which we had thus walked all +day on the outward journey, without knowing anything of it, was Mount +Fridtjof Nansen. Yes, the difference in the light made a surprising +alteration in the appearance of things.</p> + +<p>The first thing we did on reaching the depot was to take out the +dogs' carcasses that lay there and cut them into big lumps, that +were divided among the dogs. They looked rather surprised; they +had not been accustomed to such rations. We threw three carcasses +on to the sledges, so as to have a little extra food for them on +the way down. The Butcher's was not a very friendly spot this time, +either. True, it was not the same awful weather as on our first visit, +but it was blowing a fresh breeze with a temperature of -9.4º F., +which, after the heat of the last few days, seemed to go to one's +marrow, and did not invite us to stay longer than was absolutely +necessary. Therefore, as soon as we had finished feeding the dogs +and putting our sledges in order, we set out.</p> + +<p>Although the ground had not given us the impression of sloping, we +soon found out that it did so when we got under way. It was not only +downhill, but the pace became so great that we had to stop and put +brakes under the sledges. As we advanced, the apparently unbroken +wall opened more and more, and showed us at last our old familiar +ascent. There lay Mount Ole Engelstad, snowclad and cold, as we saw +it the first time. As we rounded it we came on to the severe, steep +slope, where, on the way south, I had so much admired the work done +by my companions and the dogs that day. But now I had an even better +opportunity of seeing how steep this ascent really had been. Many +were the brakes we had to put on before we could reduce the speed +to a moderate pace, but even so we came down rapidly, and soon the +first part of the descent lay behind us. So as not to be exposed to +possible gusts from the plain, we went round Mount Engelstad and +camped under the lee of it, well content with the day's work. The +snow lay here as on our first visit, deep and loose, and it was +difficult to find anything like a good place for the tent. We could +soon feel that we had descended a couple of thousand feet and come +down among the mountains. It was still, absolutely still, and the +sun broiled us as on a day of high summer at home. I thought, too, +that I could notice a difference in my breathing; it seemed to work +much more easily and pleasantly -- perhaps it was only imagination.</p> + +<p>At one o'clock on the following morning we were out again. The sight +that met our eyes that morning, when we came out of the tent, was one +of those that will always live in our memories. The tent stood in the +narrow gap between Fridtjof Nansen and Ole Engelstad. The sun, which +now stood in the south, was completely hidden by the latter mountain, +and our camp was thus in the deepest shadow; but right against us +on the other side the Nansen mountain raised its splendid ice-clad +summit high towards heaven, gleaming and sparkling in the rays of +the midnight sun. The shining white passed gradually, very gradually, +into pale blue, then deeper and deeper blue, until the shadow swallowed +it up. But down below, right on the Heiberg Glacier, its ice-covered +side was exposed -- dark and solemn the mountain mass stood out. Mount +Engelstad lay in shadow, but on its summit rested a beautiful light +little cirrus cloud, red with an edge of gold. Down over its side +the blocks of ice lay scattered pell-mell. And farther down on the +east rose Don Pedro Christophersen, partly in shadow, partly gleaming +in the sun -- a marvellously beautiful sight. And all was so still; +one almost feared to disturb the incomparable splendour of the scene.</p> + +<p>We now knew the ground well enough to be able to go straight ahead +without any detours. The huge avalanches were more frequent than on +the outward journey. One mass of snow after another plunged down; +Don Pedro was getting rid of his winter coat. The going was precisely +the same -- loose, fairly deep snow. We went quite easily over it, +however, and it was all downhill. On the ridge where the descent to +the glacier began we halted to make our preparations. Brakes were +put under the sledges, and our two ski-sticks were fastened together +to make one strong one; we should have to be able to stop instantly +if surprised by a crevasse as we were going. We ski-runners went in +front. The going was ideal here on the steep slope, just enough loose +snow to give one good steering on ski. We went whizzing down, and it +was not many minutes before we were on the Heiberg Glacier. For the +drivers it was not quite such plain sailing: they followed our tracks, +but had to be extremely careful on the steep fall.</p> + +<p>We camped that evening on the selfsame spot where we had had our tent +on November 18, at about 3,100 feet above the sea. From here one could +see the course of the Axel Heiberg Glacier right down to its junction +with the Barrier. It looked fine and even, and we decided to follow +it instead of climbing over the mountain, as we had done on the way +south. Perhaps the distance would be somewhat longer, but probably we +should make a considerable saving of time. We had now agreed upon a new +arrangement of our time; the long spells of rest were becoming almost +unbearable. Another very important side of the question was that, +by a reasonable arrangement, we should be able to save a lot of time, +and reach home several days sooner than we had reckoned. After a great +deal of talk on one side and on the other, we agreed to arrange matters +thus: we were to do our fifteen geographical miles, or twenty-eight +kilometres, and then have a sleep of six hours, turn out again and do +fifteen miles more, and so on. In this way we should accomplish a very +good average distance on our day's march. We kept to this arrangement +for the rest of the journey, and thus saved a good many days.</p> + +<p>Our progress down the Heiberg Glacier did not encounter any +obstructions; only at the transition from the glacier to the Barrier +were there a few crevasses that had to be circumvented. At 7 a.m. on +January 6 we halted at the angle of land that forms the entrance to +the Heiberg Glacier, and thence extends northward. We had not yet +recognized any of the land we lay under, but that was quite natural, +as we now saw it from the opposite side. We knew, though, that we +were not far away from our main depot in 85º 5' S. On the afternoon +of the same day we were off again.</p> + +<p>From a little ridge we crossed immediately after starting, Bjaaland +thought he could see the depot down on the Barrier, and it was not +very long before we came in sight of Mount Betty and our way up. And +now we could make sure with the glasses that it really was our depot +that we saw -- the same that Bjaaland thought he had seen before. We +therefore set our course straight for it, and in a few minutes we +were once more on the Barrier -- January 6, 11 p.m. -- after a stay +of fifty-one days on land. It was on November 17 that we had begun +the ascent.</p> + +<p>We reached the depot, and found everything in order. The heat here +must have been very powerful; our lofty, solid depot was melted by +the sun into a rather low mound of snow. The pemmican rations that +had been exposed to the direct action of the sun's rays had assumed +the strangest forms, and, of course, they had become rancid. We +got the sledges ready at once, taking all the provisions out of the +depot and loading them. We left behind some of the old clothes we +had been wearing all the way from here to the Pole and back. When +we had completed all this repacking and had everything ready, two +of us went over to Mount Betty, and collected as many different +specimens of rock as we could lay our hands on. At the same time we +built a great cairn, and left there a can of 17 litres of paraffin, +two packets of matches -- containing twenty boxes -- and an account +of our expedition. Possibly someone may find a use for these things +in the future.</p> + +<p>We had to kill Frithjof, one of Bjaaland's dogs, at this camp. He had +latterly been showing marked signs of shortness of breath, and finally +this became so painful to the animal that we decided to put an end +to him. Thus brave Frithjof ended his career. On cutting him open +it appeared that his lungs were quite shrivelled up; nevertheless, +the remains disappeared pretty quickly into his companions' +stomachs. What they had lost in quantity did not apparently affect +their quality. Nigger, one of Hassel's dogs, had been destroyed on +the way down from the plateau. We thus reached this point again with +twelve dogs, as we had reckoned on doing, and left it with eleven. I +see in my diary the following remark: "The dogs look just as well +as when we left Framheim." On leaving the place a few hours later +we had provisions for thirty-five days on the sledges. Besides this, +of course, we had a depot at every degree of latitude up to 80º.</p> + +<p>It looked as though we had found our depot at the right moment, for +when we came out to continue our journey the whole Barrier was in a +blizzard. A gale was blowing from the south, with a sky completely +clouded over; falling snow and drift united in a delightful dance, and +made it difficult to see. The lucky thing was that now we had the wind +with us, and thus escaped getting it all in our eyes, as, we had been +accustomed to. The big crevasse, which, as we knew, lay right across +the line of our route, made us go very carefully. To avoid any risk, +Bjaaland and Hassel, who went in advance, fastened an alpine rope +between them. The snow was very deep and loose, and the going very +heavy. Fortunately, we were warned in time of our approach to the +expected cracks by the appearance of some bare ice ridges. These told +us clearly enough that disturbances had taken place here, and that even +greater ones might be expected, probably near at hand. At that moment +the thick curtain of cloud was torn asunder, and the sun pierced the +whirling mass of snow. Instantly Hanssen shouted: "Stop, Bjaaland!" He +was just on the edge of the yawning crevasse. Bjaaland himself has +splendid sight, but his excellent snow-goggles -- his own patent -- +entirely prevented his seeing. Well, Bjaaland would not have been in +any serious danger if he had fallen into the crevasse, as he was roped +to Hassel, but it would have been confoundedly unpleasant all the same.</p> + +<p>As I have said before, I assume that these great disturbances here +mark the boundary between the Barrier and the land. This time, +curiously enough, they seemed also to form a boundary between good +and bad weather, for on the far side of them -- to the north -- the +Barrier lay bathed in sunshine. On the south the blizzard raged worse +than ever. Mount Betty was the last to send us its farewell. South +Victoria Land had gone into hiding, and did not show itself again. As +soon as we came into the sunshine, we ran upon one of our beacons; +our course lay straight towards it. That was not bad steering in the +dark. At 9 p.m. we reached the depot in 85º S. Now we could begin to be +liberal with the dogs' food, too; they had double pemmican rations, +besides as many oatmeal biscuits as they would eat. We had such +masses of biscuits now that we could positively throw them about. Of +course, we might have left a large part of these provisions behind; +but there was a great satisfaction in being so well supplied with +food, and the dogs did not seem to mind the little extra weight in +the least. As long as things went so capitally as they were going -- +that is, with men and dogs exactly keeping pace with one another -- +we could ask for nothing better. But the weather that had cheered us +was not of long duration. "Same beastly weather," my diary says of +the next stage. The wind had shifted to the north-west, with overcast, +thick weather, and very troublesome drifting snow. In spite of these +unfavourable conditions, we passed beacon after beacon, and at the +end of our march had picked up all the beacons we had erected on +this distance of seventeen miles and three-eighths. But, as before, +we owed this to Hanssen's good eyes.</p> + +<p>On our way southward we had taken a good deal of seal meat and had +divided it among the depots we built on the Barrier in such a way that +we were now able to eat fresh meat every day. This had not been done +without an object; if we should be visited with scurvy, this fresh meat +would be invaluable. As we were -- sound and healthy as we had never +been before -- the seal-beef was a pleasant distraction in our menu, +nothing more. The temperature had risen greatly since we came down +on to the Barrier, and kept steady at about + 14º F. We were so warm +in our sleeping-bags that we had to turn them with the hair out. That +was better; we breathed more freely and felt happier. "Just like going +into an ice-cellar," somebody remarked. The same feeling as when on +a really warm summer day one comes out of the hot sun into cool shade.</p> + +<p>January 9. -- "Same beastly weather; snow, snow, snow, nothing but +snow. Is there no end to it? Thick too, so that we have not been able +to see ten yards ahead. Temperature + 17.6º F. Thawing everywhere +on the sledges. Everything getting wet. Have not found a single +beacon in this blind man's weather. The snow was very deep to begin +with and the going exceedingly heavy, but in spite of this the dogs +managed their sledges very well." That evening the weather improved, +fortunately, and became comparatively clear by the time we resumed our +journey at 10 p.m. Not long after we sighted one of our beacons. It +lay to the west, about 200 yards away. We were thus not far out of +our course; we turned aside and went up to it, as it was interesting +to see whether our reckoning was in order. The beacon was somewhat +damaged by sunshine and storms, but we found the paper left in it, +which told us that this beacon was erected on November 14, in 84º 26' +S. It also told us what course to steer by compass to reach the next +beacon, which lay five kilometres from this one.</p> + +<p>As we were leaving this old friend and setting our course as it +advised, to our unspeakable astonishment two great birds -- skua gulls +-- suddenly came flying straight towards us. They circled round us +once or twice and then settled on the beacon. Can anyone who reads +these lines form an idea of the effect this had upon us? It is hardly +likely. They brought us a message from the living world into this realm +of death -- a message of all that was dear to us. I think the same +thoughts filled us all. They did not allow themselves a long rest, +these first messengers from another world; they sat still a while, +no doubt wondering who we were, then rose aloft and flew on to the +south. Mysterious creatures! they were now exactly half-way between +Framheim and the Pole, and yet they were going farther inland. Were +they going over to the other side?</p> + +<p>Our march ended this time at one of our beacons, in 84º 15'. It +felt so good and safe to lie beside one of these; it always gave +us a sure starting-point for the following stage. We were up at +4 a.m. and left the place a few hours later, with the result that +the day's march brought us thirty-four miles nearer Framheim. With +our present arrangement, we had these long-day marches every other +day. Our dogs need no better testimonial than this -- one day +seventeen miles, the next day thirty-four, and fresh all the way +home. The two birds, agreeably as their first appearance had affected +me, led my thoughts after a while in another direction, which was +anything but agreeable. It occurred to me that these two might only +be representatives of a larger collection of these voracious birds, +and that the remainder might now be occupied in consuming all the fresh +meat we had so laboriously transported with us and spread all over the +plain in our depots. It is incredible what a flock of these birds of +prey can get rid of; it would not matter if the meat were frozen as +hard as iron, they would have managed it, even if it had been a good +deal harder than iron. Of the seals' carcasses we had lying in 80º, +I saw in my thoughts nothing but the bones. Of the various dogs we +had killed on our way south and laid on the tops of beacons I did not +see even so much as that. Well, it was possible that my thoughts had +begun to assume too dark a hue; perhaps the reality would be brighter.</p> + +<p>Weather and going began by degrees to right themselves; it looked as if +things would improve in proportion to our distance from land. Finally, +both became perfect; the sun shone from a cloudless sky, and the +sledges ran on the fine, even surface with all the ease and speed +that could be desired. Bjaaland, who had occupied the position of +forerunner all the way from the Pole, performed his duties admirably; +but the old saying that nobody is perfect applied even to him. None +of us -- no matter who it may be -- can keep in a straight line, when +he has no marks to follow. All the more difficult is this when, as so +often happened with us, one has to go blindly. Most of us, I suppose, +would swerve now to one side, now to the other, and possibly end, +after all this groping, by keeping pretty well to the line. Not so +with Bjaaland; he was a right-hand man. I can see him now; Hanssen +has given him the direction by compass, and Bjaaland turns round, +points his ski in the line indicated and sets of with decision. His +movements clearly show that he has made up his mind, cost what it +may, to keep in the right direction. He sends his ski firmly along, +so that the snow spurts from them, and looks straight before him. But +the result is the same; if Hanssen had let Bjaaland go on without any +correction, in the course of an hour or so the latter would probably +have described a beautiful circle and brought himself back to the spot +from which he had started. Perhaps. after all, this was not a fault to +complain of, since we always knew with absolute certainty that, when +we had got out of the line of beacons, we were to the right of it and +had to search for the beacons to the west. This conclusion proved very +useful to us more than once, and we gradually became so familiar with +Bjaaland's right-handed tendencies that we actually counted on them.</p> + +<p>On January 13, according to our reckoning, we ought to reach the depot +in 83º S. This was the last of our depots that was not marked at right +angles to the route, and therefore the last critical point. The day +was not altogether suited for finding the needle in the haystack. It +was calm with a thick fog, so thick that we could only see a few yards +in front of us. We did not see a single beacon on the whole march. At +4 p.m. we had completed the distance, according to the sledge-meters, +and reckoned that we ought to be in 83º S., by the depot; but there +was nothing to be seen. We decided, therefore, to set our tent and +wait till it cleared. While we were at work with this, there was a +rift in the thick mass of fog, and there, not many yards away -- to +the west, of course -- lay our depot. We quickly took the tent down +again, packed it on the sledge, and drove up to our food mound, which +proved to be quite in order. There was no sign of the birds having +paid it a visit. But what was that? Fresh, well-marked dog-tracks +in the newly-fallen snow. We soon saw that they must be the tracks +of the runaways that we had lost here on the way south. Judging by +appearances, they must have lain under the lee of the depot for +a considerable time; two deep hollows in the snow told us that +plainly. And evidently they must have had enough food, but where +on earth had they got it from? The depot was absolutely untouched, +in spite of the fact that the lumps of pemmican lay exposed to the +light of day and were very easy to get at; besides which, the snow on +the depot was not so hard as to prevent the dogs pulling it down and +eating up all the food. Meanwhile the dogs had left the place again, +as shown by the fresh trail, which pointed to the north. We examined +the tracks very closely, and agreed that they were not more than +two days old. They went northward, and we followed them from time to +time on our next stage. At the beacon in 82º 45', where we halted, +we saw them still going to the north. In 82º 24' the trail began to +be much confused, and ended by pointing due west. That was the last +we saw of the tracks; but we had not done with these dogs, or rather +with their deeds. We stopped at the beacon in 82º 20'. Else, who +had been laid on the top of it, had fallen down and lay by the side; +the sun had thawed away the lower part of the beacon. So the roving +dogs had not been here; so much was certain, for otherwise we should +not have found Else as we did. We camped at the end of that stage by +the beacon in 82º 15', and shared out Else's body. Although she had +been lying in the strong sunshine, the flesh was quite good, when we +had scraped away a little mouldiness. It smelt rather old, perhaps, +but our dogs were not fastidious when it was a question of meat.</p> + +<p>On January 16 we arrived at the depot in 82º S. We could see +from a long way off that the order in which we had left it no +longer prevailed. When we came up to it, we saw at once what had +happened. The innumerable dog-tracks that had trampled the snow quite +hard round the depot declared plainly enough that the runaways had +spent a good deal of time here. Several of the cases belonging to +the depot had fallen down, presumably from the same cause as Else, +and the rascals had succeeded in breaking into one of them. Of the +biscuits and pemmican which it had contained, nothing, of course, +was left; but that made no difference to us now, as we had food in +abundance. The two dogs' carcasses that we had placed on the top of +the depot -- Uranus and Jaala -- were gone, not even the teeth were to +be seen. Yet they had left the teeth of Lucy, whom they had eaten in +82º 3'. Jaala's eight puppies were still lying on the top of a case; +curiously enough, they had not fallen down. In addition to all the +rest, the beasts had devoured some ski-bindings and things of that +sort. It was no loss to us, as it happened; but who could tell which +way these creatures had gone? If they had succeeded in finding the +depot in 80º S., they would probably by this time have finished our +supply of seal meat there. Of course it would be regrettable if this +had happened, although it would entail no danger either to ourselves +or our animals. If we got as far as 80º, we should come through all +right. For the time being, we had to console ourselves with the fact +that we could see no continuation of the trail northward.</p> + +<p>We permitted ourselves a little feast here in 82º. The "chocolate +pudding" that Wisting served as dessert is still fresh in my memory; +we all agreed that it came nearer perfection than anything it had +hitherto fallen to our lot to taste. I may disclose the receipt: +biscuit-crumbs, dried milk and chocolate are put into a kettle of +boiling water. What happens afterwards, I don't know; for further +information apply to Wisting. Between 82º and 81º we came into our +old marks of the second depot journey; on that trip we had marked +this distance with splinters of packing-case at every geographical +mile. That was in March, 1911, and now we were following these +splinters in the second half of January, 1912. Apparently they stood +exactly as they had been put in. This marking stopped in 81º 33' S., +with two pieces of case on a snow pedestal. The pedestal was still +intact and good.</p> + +<p>I shall let my diary describe what we saw on January 18: "Unusually +fine weather to-day. Light south-south-west breeze, which in the +course of our march cleared the whole sky. In 81º 20' we came abreast +of our old big pressure ridges. We now saw far more of them than ever +before. They extended as far as the eye could see, running north-east +to south-west, in ridges and peaks. Great was our surprise when, a +short time after, we made out high, bare land in the same direction, +and not long after that two lofty, white summits to the south-east, +probably in about 82º S. It could be seen by the look of the sky +that the land extended from north-east to south-west. This must be +the same land that we saw lose itself in the horizon in about 84ºS., +when we stood at a height of about 4,000 feet and looked out over +the Barrier, during our ascent. We now have sufficient indications to +enable us without hesitation to draw this land as continuous -- Carmen +Land. The surface against the land is violently disturbed -- crevasses +and pressure ridges, waves and valleys, in all directions. We shall +no doubt feel the effect of it to-morrow." Although what we have seen +apparently justifies us in concluding that Carmen Land extends from +86º S. to this position -- about 81º 30' S. -- and possibly farther +to the north-east, I have not ventured to lay it down thus on the +map. I have contented myself with giving the name of Carmen Land to +the land between 86º and 84º, and have called the rest "Appearance +of Land." It will be a profitable task for an explorer to investigate +this district more closely.</p> + +<p>As we had expected, on our next stage we were made to feel the effect +of the disturbances. Three times we had now gone over this stretch of +the Barrier without having really clear weather. This time we had it, +and were able to see what it actually looked like. The irregularities +began in 81º 12' S., and did not extend very far from north to +south-possibly about five kilometres (three and a quarter miles). How +far they extended from east to west it is difficult to say, but at any +rate as far as the eye could reach. Immense pieces of the surface had +fallen away and opened up the most horrible yawning gulfs, big enough +to swallow many caravans of the size of ours. From these open holes, +ugly wide cracks ran out in all directions; besides which, mounds and +haycocks were everywhere to be seen. Perhaps the most remarkable thing +of all was that we had passed over here unharmed. We went across as +light-footedly as possible, and at top speed. Hanssen went halfway +into a crevasse, but luckily got out of it again without difficulty.</p> + +<p>The depot in 81º S. was in perfect order; no dog-tracks to be +seen there. Our hopes that the depot in 80º S. would be intact rose +considerably. In 80º 45' S. lay the first dog we had killed -- Bone. He +was particularly fat, and was immensely appreciated. The dogs no +longer cared very much for pemmican. On January 21 we passed our last +beacon, which stood in 80º 23' S. Glad as we were to leave it behind, +I cannot deny that it was with a certain feeling of melancholy that +we saw it vanish. We had grown so fond of our beacons, and whenever +we met them we greeted them as old friends. Many and great were the +services these silent watchers did us on our long and lonely way.</p> + +<p>On the same day we reached our big depot in 80º S., and now we +considered that we were back. We could see at once that others had +been at the depot since we had left it, and we found a message from +Lieutenant Prestrud, the leader of the eastern party, saying that he, +with Stubberud and Johansen, had passed here on November 12, with two +sledges, sixteen dogs, and supplies for thirty days. Everything thus +appeared to be in the best of order. Immediately on arriving at the +depot we let the dogs loose, and they made a dash for the heap of +seal's flesh, which had been attacked neither by birds nor dogs in +our absence. It was not so much for the sake of eating that our dogs +made their way to the meat mound, as for the sake of fighting. Now +they really had something to fight about. They went round the seals' +carcasses a few times, looked askance at the food and at each other, +and then flung themselves into the wildest scrimmage. When this had +been duly brought to a conclusion, they went away and lay round their +sledges. The depot in 80º S. is still large, well supplied and well +marked, so it is not impossible that it may be found useful later.</p> + +<p>The journey from 80º S. to Framheim has been so often described that +there is nothing new to say about it. On January 25, at 4 a.m., we +reached our good little house again, with two sledges and eleven dogs; +men and animals all hale and hearty. We stood and waited for each other +outside the door in the early morning; our appearance must be made all +together. It was so still and quiet -- they must be all asleep. We came +in. Stubberud started up in his bunk and glared at us; no doubt he took +us for ghosts. One after another they woke up -- not grasping what was +happening. Then there was a hearty welcome home on all sides "Where's +the Fram?" was of course our first question Our joy was great when we +heard all was well. "And what about the Pole? Have you been there?" -- +"Yes, of course; otherwise you would hardly have seen us again." Then +the coffee kettle was put on, and the perfume of "hot cakes" rose as +in old days. We agreed that it was good outside, but still better at +home. Ninety-nine days the trip had taken. Distance about 1,860 miles.</p> + +<p>The Franz had come in to the Barrier on January 8, after a three +months' voyage from Buenos Aires; all were well on board. Meanwhile, +bad weather had forced her to put out again. On the following day the +lookout man reported that the Fram was approaching There was life in +the camp; on with furs and out with the dogs. They should see that our +dogs were not worn out yet. We heard the engine panting and grunting, +saw the crow's-nest appear over the edge of the Barrier, and at last +she glided in, sure and steady. It was with a joyful heart I went +on board and greeted all these gallant men, who had brought the +Franz to her destination through so many fatigues and perils, and +had accomplished so much excellent work on the way. They all looked +pleased and happy, but nobody asked about the Pole. At last it slipped +out of Gjertsen: "Have you been there?" Joy is a poor name for the +feeling that beamed in my comrades' faces; it was something more.</p> + +<p>I shut myself up in the chart-house with Captain Nilsen, who gave +me my mail and all the news. Three names stood high above the rest, +when I was able to understand all that had happened -- the names of +the three who gave me their support when it was most needed. I shall +always remember them in respectful gratitude --</p> + +<p>H. M. The King, Professor Fridtjof Nansen, Don Pedro Christophersen.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XIV: <a name="xiv"></a> +Northward</h2> + +<p>After two days of bustle in getting on board the things we were +to take with us, we managed to be ready for sea on the afternoon of +January 30. There could scarcely have been anything at that moment that +rejoiced us more than just that fact, that we were able at so early a +date to set our course northward and thus take the first step on the +way to that world which, as we knew, would soon begin to expect news +from us, or of us. And yet, I wonder whether there was not a little +feeling of melancholy in the midst of all our joy? It can hardly be +doubted that such was really the case, although to many this may seem +a flat contradiction. But it is not altogether so easy to part from +a place that has been one's home for any length of time, even though +this home lie in the 79th degree of latitude, more or less buried in +snow and ice. We human beings are far too dependent on habit to be +able to tear ourselves abruptly from the surroundings with which we +have been obliged to be familiar for many months. That outsiders would +perhaps pray all the powers of goodness to preserve them from such +surroundings, does not counteract the full validity of this rule. To +an overwhelming majority of our fellow-men Framheim will certainly +appear as one of those spots on our planet where they would least of +all wish to find themselves -- a God-forsaken, out-of-the-way hole +that could offer nothing but the very climax of desolation, discomfort, +and boredom. To us nine, who stood on the gangway ready to leave this +place, things appeared somewhat differently. That strong little house, +that now lay entirely hidden beneath the snow behind Mount Nelson, had +for a whole year been our home, and a thoroughly good and comfortable +home it was, where after so many a hard day's work we had found all +the rest and quiet we wanted. Through the whole Antarctic winter -- +and it is a winter -- those four walls had protected us so well that +many a poor wretch in milder latitudes would have envied us with all +his heart, if he could have seen us. In conditions so hard that every +form of life flies headlong from them, we had lived on at Framheim +undisturbed and untroubled, and lived, be it said, not as animals, +but as civilized human beings, who had always within their reach most +of the good things that are found in a well-ordered home. Darkness +and cold reigned outside, and the blizzards no doubt did their best +to blot out most traces of our activity, but these enemies never came +within the door of our excellent dwelling; there we shared quarters +with light and warmth and comfort. What wonder was it that this spot +exercised a strong attraction upon each of us at the moment when we +were to turn our backs upon it for good? Outside the great world +beckoned to us, that is true; and it might have much to offer us +that we had had to forego for a long time; but in what awaited us +there was certainly a great deal that we would gladly have put off +for as long as possible. When everyday life came with its cares and +worries, it might well happen that we should look back with regret +to our peaceful and untroubled existence at Framheim.</p> + +<p>However, this feeling of melancholy was hardly so strong that we +could not all get over it comparatively quickly. Judging by the +faces, at any rate, one would have thought that joy was the most +predominant mood. And why not? It was no use dwelling on the past, +however attractive it might seem just then, and as to the future, we +had every right to expect the best of it. Who cared to think of coming +troubles? No one. Therefore the Fram was dressed with flags from stem +to stern, and therefore faces beamed at each other as we said good-bye +to our home on the Barrier. We could leave it with the consciousness +that the object of our year's stay had been attained, and, after all, +this consciousness was of considerably more weight than the thought +that we had been so happy there. One thing that in the course of our +two years' association on this expedition contributed enormously to +making time pass easily and keeping each of us in full vigour was +the entire absence of what I may call "dead periods." As soon as one +problem was solved, another instantly appeared. No sooner was one goal +reached, than the next one beckoned from afar. In this way we always +had our hands full, and when that is the case, as everyone knows, +time flies quickly. One often hears it asked, How is it possible to +make the time pass on such a trip? My good friends, I would answer, +if anything caused us worry, it was the thought of how we should +find time enough for all we had to do. Perhaps to many this assertion +will bear the stamp of improbability; it is, nevertheless, absolutely +true. Those who have read this narrative through will, in any case, +have received the impression that unemployment was an evil that was +utterly unknown in our little community.</p> + +<p>At the stage where we now found ourselves, with the main object of +our enterprise achieved, there might have been reason to expect +a certain degree of relaxation of interest. This, however, was +not the case. The fact was that what we had done would have no +real value until it was brought to the knowledge of mankind, and +this communication had to be made with as little loss of time as +possible. If anyone was interested in being first in the market it was +certainly ourselves. The probability was, no doubt, that we were out +in good time; but, in spite of all, it was only a probability. On the +other hand, it was absolutely certain that we had a voyage of 2,400 +nautical miles to Hobart, which had been selected as our first port +of call; and it was almost equally certain that this voyage would be +both slow and troublesome. A year before our trip through Ross Sea had +turned out almost like a pleasure cruise, but that was in the middle of +summer. Now we were in February, and autumn was at hand. As regards the +belt of drift-ice, Captain Nilsen thought that would cause us no delay +in future. He had discovered a patent and infallible way of getting +through! This sounded like a rather bold assertion, but, as will be +seen later, he was as good as his word. Our worst troubles would be +up in the westerlies, where we should this time be exposed to the +unpleasant possibility of having to beat. The difference in longitude +between the Bay of Whales and Hobart is nearly fifty degrees. If we +could have sailed off this difference in longitude in the latitudes +where we then were, and where a degree of longitude is only about +thirteen nautical miles, it would all have been done in a twinkling; +but the mighty mountain ranges of North Victoria Land were a decisive +obstacle. We should first have to follow a northerly course until we +had rounded the Antarctic Continent's northern outpost, Cape Adare, +and the Balleny Islands to the north of it. Not till then would the +way be open for us to work to the west; but then we should be in a +region where in all probability the wind would be dead against us, +and as to tacking with the Fram -- no, thank you! Every single man on +board knew enough of the conditions to be well aware of what awaited +us, and it is equally certain that the thoughts of all were centred +upon how we might conquer our coming difficulties in the best and +quickest way. It was the one great, common object that still bound, +and would continue to bind, us all together in our joint efforts.</p> + +<p>Among the items of news that we had just received from the outer +world was the message that the Australian Antarctic Expedition under +Dr. Douglas Mawson would be glad to take over some of our dogs, +if we had any to spare. The base of this expedition was Hobart, +and as far as that went, this suited us very well. It chanced that +we were able to do our esteemed colleague this small service. On +leaving the Barrier we could show a pack of thirty-nine dogs, many +of which had grown up during our year's stay there; about half had +survived the whole trip from Norway, and eleven had been at the South +Pole. It had been our intention only to keep a suitable number as the +progenitors of a new pack for the approaching voyage in the Arctic +Ocean, but Dr. Mawson's request caused us to take all the thirty-nine +on board. Of these dogs, if nothing unforeseen happened, we should be +able to make over twenty-one to him. When the last load was brought +down, there was nothing to do but to pull the dogs over the side, +and then we were ready. It was quite curious to see how several of +the old veterans seemed at home again on the Fram's deck. Wisting's +brave dog, the old Colonel, with his two adjutants, Suggen and Arne, +at once took possession of the places where they had stood for so +many a long day on the voyage south -- on the starboard side of the +mainmast; the two twins, Mylius and Ring, Helmer Hanssen's special +favourites, began their games away in the corner of the fore-deck +to port, as though nothing had happened. To look at those two merry +rascals no one would have thought they had trotted at the head of +the whole caravan both to and from the Pole. One solitary dog could +be seen stalking about, lonely and reserved, in a continual uneasy +search. This was the boss of Bjaaland's team. He was unaffected by +any advances; no one could take the place of his fallen comrade and +friend, Frithjof, who had long ago found a grave in the stomachs of +his companions many hundreds of miles across the Barrier.</p> + +<p>No sooner was the last dog helped on board, and the two ice-anchors +released, than the engine-room telegraph rang, and the engine was at +once set going to keep us from any closer contact with the ice-foot +in the Bay of Whales. Our farewell to this snug harbour took almost +the form of a leap from one world to another; the fog hung over us +as thick as gruel, concealing all the surrounding outlines behind its +clammy curtain, as we stood out. After a lapse of three or four hours, +it lifted quite suddenly, but astern of us the bank of fog still stood +like a wall; behind it the panorama, which we knew would have looked +wonderful in clear weather, and which we should so gladly have let +our eyes rest upon as long as we could, was entirely concealed.</p> + +<p>The same course we had steered when coming in a year before could +safely be taken in the opposite direction now we were going out. The +outlines of the bay had remained absolutely unchanged during the year +that had elapsed. Even the most projecting point of the wall on the +west side of the bay, Cape Man's Head, stood serenely in its old place, +and it looked as if it was in no particular hurry to remove itself. It +will probably stay where it is for many a long day yet, for if any +movement of the ice mass is taking place at the inner end of the bay, +it is in any case very slight. Only in one respect did the condition of +things differ somewhat this year from the preceding. Whereas in 1911 +the greater part of the bay was free of sea-ice as early as January +14, in 1912 there was no opening until about fourteen days later. The +ice-sheet had stubbornly held on until the fresh north-easterly +breeze, that appeared on the very day the southern party returned, +had rapidly provided a channel of open water. The breaking up of the +ice could not possibly have taken place at a more convenient moment; +the breeze in question saved us a great deal, both of time and trouble, +as the way to the place where the Fram lay before the ice broke up +was about five times as long as the distance we now had to go. This +difference of fourteen days in the time of the disappearance of the +ice in two summers showed us how lucky we had been to choose that +particular year -- 1911 -- for our landing here. The work which we +carried out in three weeks in 1911, thanks to the early breaking up +of the ice, would certainly have taken us double the time in 1912, +and would have caused us far more difficulty and trouble.</p> + +<p>The thick fog that, as I have said, lay over the Bay of Whales when we +left it, prevented us also from seeing what our friends the Japanese +were doing. The Kainan Maru had put to sea in company with the Fram +during the gale of January 27, and since that time we had seen nothing +of them. Those members of the expedition who had been left behind in +a tent on the edge of the Barrier to the north of Framheim had also +been very retiring of late. On the day we left the place, one of our +own party had an interview with two of the foreigners. Prestrud had +gone to fetch the flag that had been set up on Cape Man's Head as a +signal to the Fram that all had returned. By the side of the flag a +tent had been put up, which was intended as a shelter for a lookout +man, in case the Fram had been delayed. When Prestrud came up, he was +no doubt rather surprised to find himself face to face with two sons +of Nippon, who were engaged in inspecting our tent and its contents, +which, however, only consisted of a sleeping-bag and a Primus. The +Japanese had opened the conversation with enthusiastic phrases about +"nice day" and "plenty ice"; when our man had expressed his absolute +agreement on these indisputable facts, he tried to get information +on matters of more special interest. The two strangers told him that +for the moment they were the only inhabitants of the tent out on +the edge of the Barrier. Two of their companions had gone on a tour +into the Barrier to make meteorological observations, and were to be +away about a week. The Kainan Maru had gone on another cruise in the +direction of King Edward Land. As far as they knew, it was intended +that the ship should be back before February 10, and that all the +members of the expedition should then go on board and sail to the +north. Prestrud had invited his two new acquaintances to visit us at +Framheim, the sooner the better; they delayed their coming too long, +however, for us to be able to wait for them. If they have since been +at Framheim, they will at any rate be able to bear witness that we +did our best to make things comfortable for any successors.</p> + +<p>When the fog lifted, we found ourselves surrounded by open sea, +practically free from ice, on all sides. A blue-black sea, with a +heavy, dark sky above it, is not usually reckoned among the sights +that delight the eye. To our organs of vision it was a real relief to +come into surroundings where dark colours predominated. For months +we had been staring at a dazzling sea of white, where artificial +means had constantly to be employed to protect the eyes against the +excessive flood of light. As a rule, it was even necessary to limit +the exposure of the pupils to a minimum, and to draw the eyelids +together. Now we could once more look on the world with open eyes, +literally "without winking "; even such a commonplace thing as this +is an experience in one's life. Ross Sea showed itself again on its +most favourable side. A cat's paw of south-westerly wind enabled us +to use the sails, so that after a lapse of two days we were already +about two hundred miles from the Barrier. Modest as this distance +may be in itself, when seen on the chart it looked quite imposing in +our eyes. It must be remembered that, with the means of transport we +had employed on land, it cost us many a hard day's march to cover a +distance of two hundred geographical miles.</p> + +<p>Nilsen had marked on the chart the limits of the belt of drift-ice +during the three passages the Fram had already made. The supposition +that an available opening is always to be found in the neighbourhood +of the 150th meridian appears to be confirmed. The slight changes in +the position of the channel were only caused, according to Nilsen's +experiences, by variations in the direction of the wind. He had found +that it always answered his purpose to turn and try to windward, if the +pack showed signs of being close. This mode of procedure naturally had +the effect of making the course somewhat crooked, but to make up for +this it had always resulted in his finding open water. On this trip +we reached the edge of the pack-ice belt three days after leaving the +Barrier. The position of the belt proved to be very nearly the same +as on previous passages. After we had held our course for some hours, +however, the ice became so thick that it looked badly for our further +progress. Now was the time to try Nilsen's method: the wind, which, +by the way, was quite light, came about due west, and accordingly +the helm was put to starboard and the bow turned to the west. For a +good while we even steered true south, but it proved that this fairly +long turn had not been made in vain; after we had worked our way to +windward for a few hours, we found openings in numbers. If we had held +our course as we began, it is not at all impossible that we should have +been delayed for a long time, with a free passage a few miles away.</p> + +<p>After having accomplished this first long turn, we escaped having to +make any more in future. The ice continued slack, and on February +6 the rapidly increasing swell told us that we had done with the +Antarctic drift-ice for good. I doubt if we saw a single seal during +our passage through the ice-belt this time; and if we had seen any, +we should scarcely have allowed the time for shooting them. There +was plenty of good food both for men and dogs this time, without our +having recourse to seal-beef. For the dogs we had brought all our +remaining store of the excellent dogs' pemmican, and that was not +a little. Besides this, we had a good lot of dried fish. They had +fish and pemmican on alternate days. On this diet the animals kept +in such splendid condition that, when on arrival at Hobart they had +shed most of their rough winter coats, they looked as if they had +been in clover for a year.</p> + +<p>For the nine of us who had just joined the ship, our comrades on board +had brought all the way from Buenos Aires several fat pigs, that were +now living in luxury in their pen on the after-deck; in addition to +these, three fine sheep's carcasses hung in the workroom. It need +scarcely be said that we were fully capable of appreciating these +unexpected luxuries. Seal-beef, no doubt, had done excellent service, +but this did not prevent roast mutton and pork being a welcome change, +especially as they came as a complete surprise. I hardly think one +of us had counted on the possibility of getting fresh meat before we +were back again in civilization.</p> + +<p>On her arrival at the Bay of Whales there were eleven men on board +the Fram, all included. Instead of Kutschin and Nödtvedt, who had gone +home from Buenos Aires while the ship was there in the autumn of 1911, +three new men were engaged -- namely, Halvorsen, Olsen and Steller; +the two first-named were from Bergen; Steller was a German, who had +lived for several years in Norway, and talked Norwegian like a native.</p> + +<p>All three were remarkably efficient and friendly men; it was a pleasure +to have any dealings with them. I venture to think that they, too, +found themselves at home in our company; they were really only engaged +until the Fram called at the first port, but they stayed on board all +the way to Buenos Aires, and will certainly go with us farther still.</p> + +<p>When the shore party came on board, Lieutenant Prestrud took up his +old position as first officer; the others began duty at once. All +told, we were now twenty men on board, and after the Fram had sailed +for a year rather short-handed, she could now be said to have a +full crew again. On this voyage we had no special work outside the +usual sea routine, and so long as the weather was fair, we had thus +a comparatively quiet life on board. But the hours of watch on deck +passed quickly enough, I expect; there was material in plenty for many +a long chat now. If we, who came from land, showed a high degree of +curiosity about what had been going on in the world, the sea-party +were at least as eager to have full information of every detail of +our year-long stay on the Barrier. One must almost have experienced +something similar oneself to be able to form an idea of the hail +of questions that is showered upon one on such an occasion. What we +land-lubbers had to relate has been given in outline in the preceding +chapters. Of the news we heard from outside, perhaps nothing interested +us so much as the story of how the change in the plan of the expedition +had been received at home and abroad.</p> + +<p>It must have been at least a week before there was any noticeable ebb +in the flood of questions and answers. That week went by quickly; +perhaps more quickly than we really cared for, since it proved +that the Fram was not really able to keep pace with time. The +weather remained quite well behaved, but not exactly in the way we +wished. We had reckoned that the south-easterly and easterly winds, +so frequent around Framheim, would also show themselves out in +Ross Sea, but they entirely forgot to do so. We had little wind, +and when there was any, it was, as a rule, a slant from the north, +always enough to delay our honest old ship. It was impossible to take +any observations for the first eight days, the sky was continuously +overcast. If one occasionally asked the skipper about her position, +he usually replied that the only thing that could be said for certain +was that we were in Ross Sea. On February 7, however, according to a +fairly good noon observation, we were well to the north of Cape Adare, +and therefore beyond the limits of the Antarctic Continent. On the +way northward we passed Cape Adare at a distance hardly greater than +could have been covered with a good day's sailing; but our desire +of making this detour had to give way to the chief consideration -- +northward, northward as quickly as possible.</p> + +<p>There is usually plenty of wind in the neighbourhood of bold +promontories, and Cape Adare is no exception in this respect; it is +well known as a centre of bad weather. Nor did we slip by without +getting a taste of this; but it could not have been more welcome, +as it happened that the wind was going the same way as ourselves. Two +days of fresh south-east wind took us comparatively quickly past the +Balleny Islands, and on February 9 we could congratulate ourselves on +being well out of the south frigid zone. It was with joy that we had +crossed the Antarctic Circle over a year ago, going south; perhaps +we rejoiced no less at crossing it this time in the opposite direction.</p> + +<p>In the bustle of getting away from our winter-quarters there had been +no time for any celebration of the fortunate reunion of the land +and sea parties. As this occasion for festivity had been let slip, +we had to look out for another, and we agreed that the day of our +passage from the frigid to the temperate zone afforded a very good +excuse. The pre-arranged part of the programme was extremely simple: +an extra cup of coffee, duly accompanied by punch and cigars, and +some music on the gramophone. Our worthy gramophone could not offer +anything that had the interest of novelty to us nine who had wintered +at Framheim: we knew the whole repertoire pretty well by heart; but +the well-known melodies awakened memories of many a pleasant Saturday +evening around the toddy table in our cosy winter home down at the +head of the Bay of Whales -- memories which we need not be ashamed +of recalling. On board the Fram gramophone music had not been heard +since Christmas Eve, 1910, and the members of the sea party were glad +enough to encore more than one number.</p> + +<p>Outside the limits of the programme we were treated to an extra number +by a singer, who imitated the gramophone in utilizing a big megaphone, +to make up for the deficiencies of his voice -- according to his +own statement. He hid behind the curtain of Captain Nilsen's cabin, +and through the megaphone came a ditty intended to describe life on +the Barrier from its humorous side. It was completely successful, +and we again had a laugh that did us good. Performances of this kind, +of course, only have a value to those who have taken part in or are +acquainted with the events to which they refer. In case any outsider +may be interested in seeing what our entertainment was like, a few +of the verses are given here.</p> + +<p>It must be remarked that the author composed his production in the +supposition that we should be able to meet by Christmas, and he +therefore proposed that for the moment we should imagine ourselves +to be celebrating that festival. We made no difficulty about acceding +to his request:</p> + +<p> +Well, here we are assembled to jollity once more, +Some from off the ocean and the rest from off the shore. +A year has passed since last we met and all are safe and sound, +Then let us banish all our cares and join our hands all round. +Christmas, happy Christmas! let us pass the flowing bowl, +Fill your glasses all, and let's make "Sails" a wee bit full. +For all I'll say is this -- that it's in his country's cause; +If he staggers just a little, it is in his country's cause.</p> + +<p>Now you sailor boys shall hear about the time we have gone through: +The winter -- well, it wasn't long, we had so much to do. +There was digging snow, and sleeping -- you can bet we're good at +that -- And eating, too -- no wonder that we're all a little fat. +We had hot cakes for our breakfast and "hermetik" each day, +Mutton pies, ragouts and curries, for that is Lindström's way. +But all I'll say is this -- that 'twas in our country's cause, +If we stuffed ourselves with dainties, it was in our country's cause.</p> + +<p>September came and off we went -- that trip was pretty tough; +Our compasses all went on strike, they thought it cold enough. +The brandy in the Captain's flask froze to a lump of ice; +We all agreed, both men and dogs, such weather wasn't nice. +So back we went to Framheim to thaw our heels and toes; +It could not be quite healthy when our feet and fingers froze. +But all I say is this -- that 'twas in our country's cause, +And we did not mind a frost-bite when 'twas in our country's cause.</p> + +<p>The sun came up and warmed us then a little day by day; +Five men went out again and toiled along the southern way. +This time they conquered snow and ice, and all the world may hear +That Norway's flag flies at the Pole. Now, boys, a ringing cheer +For him who led them forward through the mountains and the plain, +Up to the goal they aimed at, and safely back again. +But all I'll say is this -- that 'twas in his country's cause; +If he went through and won the Pole, 'twas in his country's cause.</p> + +<p>It could soon be noticed, in one way and another, that we had reached +latitudes where existence took a very different aspect from what +we had been accustomed to south of the 66th parallel. One welcome +change was the rise in temperature; the mercury now climbed well above +freezing-point, and those individuals on board who were still more or +less clad in skins, shed the last remnants of their Polar garb for a +lighter and more convenient costume. Those who waited longest before +making the change were the ones who belonged to the shore party. The +numerous people who imagine that a long stay in the Polar regions +makes a man less susceptible of cold than other mortals are completely +mistaken. The direct opposite is more likely to be the case. A man +who stays some time in a place where the everyday temperature is +down in the fifties below zero, or more than that, will not trouble +himself greatly about the cold, so long as he has good and serviceable +skin clothing. Let the same man, rigged out in civilized clothes, +be suddenly put down in the streets of Christiania on a winter day, +with thirty or thirty-five degrees of frost, and the poor fellow's +teeth will chatter till they fall out of his mouth. The fact is, that +on a Polar trip one defends oneself effectively against the cold; when +one comes back, and has to go about with the protection afforded by +an overcoat, a stiff collar, and a hard hat -- well, then one feels it.</p> + +<p>A less welcome consequence of the difference in latitude was the +darkening of the nights. It may be admitted that continual daylight +would be unpleasant in the long run ashore, but aboard ship an +everlasting day would certainly be preferred, if such a thing could be +had. Even if we might now consider that we had done with the principal +mass of Antarctic ice, we still had to reckon with its disagreeable +outposts -- the icebergs. It has already been remarked that a practised +look-out man can see the blink of one of the larger bergs a long way +off in the dark, but when it is a question of one of the smaller masses +of ice, of which only an inconsiderable part rises above the surface, +there is no such brightness, and therefore no warning. A little lump +like this is just as dangerous as a big berg; you run the same risks in +a possible collision of knocking a hole in the bows or carrying away +the rigging. In these transitional regions, where the temperature of +the water is always very low, the thermometer is a very doubtful guide.</p> + +<p>The waters in which we were sailing are not yet so well known as to +exclude the possibility of meeting with land. Captain Colbeck, who +commanded one of the relief ships sent south during Scott's first +expedition, came quite unexpectedly upon a little island to the +east of Cape Adare; this island was afterwards named after Captain +Scott. When Captain Colbeck made his discovery, he was about on the +course that has usually been taken by ships whose destination was +within the limits of Ross Sea. There is still a possibility that in +going out of one's course, voluntarily or involuntarily, one may find +more groups of islands in that part.</p> + +<p>On the current charts of the South Pacific there are marked several +archipelagoes and islands, the position of which is not a little +doubtful. One of these -- Emerald Island -- is charted as lying almost +directly in the course we had to follow to reach Hobart. Captain Davis, +who took Shackleton's ship, the Nimrod, home to England in 1909, +sailed, however, right over the point where Emerald Island should +be found according to the chart without seeing anything of it. If it +exists at all, it is, at any rate, incorrectly charted. In order to +avoid its vicinity, and still more in order to get as far as possible +to the west before we came into the westerly belt proper, we pressed +on as much as we could for one hard week, or perhaps nearer two; but +a continual north-west wind seemed for a long time to leave us only +two disagreeable possibilities, either of drifting to the eastward, or +of finding ourselves down in the drift-ice to the north of Wilkes Land.</p> + +<p>Those weeks were a very severe trial of patience to the many on +board who were burning with eagerness to get ashore with our news, +and perhaps to hear some in return. When the first three weeks of +February were past, we were not much more than half-way; with anything +like favourable conditions we ought to have arrived by that time. The +optimists always consoled us by saying that sooner or later there +would be a change for the better, and at last it came. A good spell +of favourable wind took us at a bound well to the windward both of +the doubtful Emerald Island and of the authentic Macquarie group to +the north of it. It may be mentioned in passing, that at the time we +went by, the most southerly wireless telegraphy station in the world +was located on one of the Macquarie Islands. The installation belonged +to Dr. Mawson's Antarctic expedition. Dr. Mawson also took with him +apparatus for installing a station on the Antarctic Continent itself, +but, so far as is known, no connection was accomplished the first year.</p> + +<p>During this fortunate run we had come so far to the west that our +course to Hobart was rapidly approaching true north. On the other hand, +we should have liked to be able to take advantage of the prevailing +winds, -- the westerlies. These vary little from one year to another, +and we found them much the same as we had been accustomed to before: +frequent, stiff breezes from the north-west, which generally held for +about twelve hours, and then veered to west or south-west. So long +as the north-wester was blowing, there was nothing to do but to lie +to with shortened sail; when the change of wind came, we made a few +hours' progress in the right direction. In this way we crept step by +step northward to our destination. It was slow enough, no doubt; but +every day the line of our course on the chart grew a little longer, +and towards the end of February the distance between us and the +southern point of Tasmania had shrunk to very modest dimensions.</p> + +<p>With the constant heavy westerly swell, the Fram, light as she now +was, surpassed herself in rolling, and that is indeed saying a great +deal. This rolling brought us a little damage to the rigging, the +gaff of the mainsail breaking; however, that affair did not stop us +long. The broken spar was quickly replaced by a spare gaff.</p> + +<p>Our hopes of arriving before the end of February came to naught, +and a quarter of March went by before our voyage was at an end.</p> + +<p>On the afternoon of March 4, we had our first glimpse of land; but, +as the weather was by no means clear and we had not been able to +determine our longitude with certainty for two days, we were uncertain +which point of Tasmania we had before us. To explain the situation, +a short description of the coast-line is necessary. The southern +angle of Tasmania runs out in three promontories; off the easternmost +of these, and only divided from it by a very narrow channel, lies a +steep and apparently inaccessible island, called Tasman Island. It is, +however, accessible, for on the top of it -- 900 feet above the sea +-- stands a lighthouse. The middle promontory is called Tasman Head, +and between this and the eastern one we have Storm Bay, which forms +the approach to Hobart; there, then, lay our course. The question was, +which of the three heads we had sighted. This was difficult, or rather +impossible, to decide, so indistinct was the outline of the land in +the misty air; it was also entirely unknown to us, as not one of us +had ever before been in this corner of the world. When darkness came +on, a heavy rain set in, and without being able to see anything at +all, we lay there feeling our way all night. With the appearance of +daylight a fresh south-west wind came and swept away most of the rain, +so that we could again make out the land. We decided that what we saw +was the middle promontory, Tasman Head, and gaily set our course into +Storm Bay -- as we thought. With the rapidly strengthening breeze we +went spinningly, and the possibility of reaching Hobart in a few hours +began to appear as a dead certainty. With this comfortable feeling +we had just sat down to the breakfast table in the fore-saloon, when +the door was pulled open with what seemed unnecessary violence, and +the face of the officer of the watch appeared in the doorway. "We're +on the wrong side of the head," was the sinister message, and the +face disappeared. Good-bye to our pleasant plans, good-bye to our +breakfast! All hands went on deck at once, and it was seen only too +well that the melancholy information was correct. We had made a mistake +in the thick rain. The wind, that had now increased to a stiff breeze, +had chased the rain-clouds from the tops of the hills, and on the +point we had taken for Tasman Head, we now saw the lighthouse. It +was therefore Tasman Island, and instead of being in Storm Bay, we +were out in the open Pacific, far to leeward of the infamous headland.</p> + +<p>There was nothing to be done but to beat and attempt to work our way +back to windward, although we knew it would be practically labour in +vain. The breeze increased to a gale, and instead of making any headway +we had every prospect of drifting well to leeward; that was the usual +result of trying to beat with the Fram. Rather annoyed though we were, +we set to work to do what could be done, and with every square foot of +canvas set the Fram pitched on her way close-hauled. To begin with, +it looked as if we held our own more or less, but as the distance +from land increased and the wind got more force, our bearings soon +showed us that we were going the way the hen kicks. About midday we +went about and stood in towards land again; immediately after came a +violent squall which tore the outer jib to ribbons; with that we were +also obliged to take in the mainsail, otherwise it would pretty soon +have been caught aback, and there would have been further damage to +the rigging. With the remaining sails any further attempt was useless; +there was nothing left but to get as close under the lee of the land +as we could and try with the help of the engine to hold our own till +the weather moderated. How it blew that afternoon! One gust after +another came dancing down the slopes of the hills, and tore at the +rigging till the whole vessel shook. The feeling on board was, as +might be expected, somewhat sultry, and found an outlet in various +expressions the reverse of gentle. Wind, weather, fate, and life in +general were inveighed against, but this availed little. The peninsula +that separated us from Storm Bay still lay there firm and immovable, +and the gale went on as if it was in no hurry to let us get round. The +whole day went by, and the greater part of the night, without any +change taking place. Not till the morning of the 6th did our prospects +begin to improve. The wind became lighter and went more to the south; +that was, of course, the way we had to go, but by hugging the shore, +where we had perfectly smooth water, we succeeded in working our +way down to Tasman Island before darkness fell. The night brought +a calm, and that gave us our chance. The engine worked furiously, +and a slight favourable current contributed to set us on our way. By +dawn on the 7th we were far up Storm Bay and could at last consider +ourselves masters of the situation.</p> + +<p>It was a sunny day, and our faces shone in rivalry with the sun; +all trace of the last two days' annoyances had vanished. And soon +the Fram, too, began to shine. The white paint on deck had a thorough +overhauling with soap and water in strong solution. The Ripolin was +again as fresh as when new. When this had been seen to, the outward +appearance of the men also began to undergo a striking change. The +Iceland jackets and "blanket costumes" from Horten gave way to "shore +clothes" of the most varied cut, hauled out after a two years' rest; +razors and scissors had made a rich harvest, and sailmaker Rönne's +fashionable Burberry caps figured on most heads. Even Lindström, +who up to date had held the position among the land party of being +its heaviest, fattest, and blackest member, showed unmistakable signs +of having been in close contact with water.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile we were nearing a pilot station, and a bustling little motor +launch swung alongside. "Want a pilot, captain?" One positively started +at the sound of the first new human voice. Communication with the outer +world was again established. The pilot -- a brisk, good-humoured old +man -- looked about him in surprise when he came up on to our deck. "I +should never have imagined things were so clean and bright on board a +Polar ship," he said; "nor should I have thought from the look of you +that you had come from Antarctica. You look as if you had had nothing +but a good time." We could assure him of that, but as to the rest, it +was not our intention just yet to allow ourselves to be pumped, and +the old man could see that. He had no objection to our pumping him, +though he had no very great store of news to give us. He had heard +nothing of the Terra Nova; on the other hand, he was able to tell +us that Dr. Mawson's ship, the Aurora, commanded by Captain Davis, +might be expected at Hobart any day. They had been looking out for +the Fram since the beginning of February, and had given us up long +ago. That was a surprise, anyhow.</p> + +<p>Our guest evidently had no desire to make the acquaintance of our +cuisine; at any rate, he very energetically declined our invitation +to breakfast. Presumably he was afraid of being treated to dog's +flesh or similar original dishes. On the other hand, he showed great +appreciation of our Norwegian tobacco. He had his handbag pretty +nearly full when he left us.</p> + +<p>Hobart Town lies on the bank of the Derwent River, which runs into +Storm Bay. The surroundings are beautiful, and the soil evidently +extremely fertile; but woods and fields were almost burnt up on our +arrival; a prolonged drought had prevailed, and made an end of all +green things. To our eyes it was, however, an unmixed delight to look +upon meadows and woods, even if their colours were not absolutely +fresh. We were not very difficult to please on that score.</p> + +<p>The harbour of Hobart is an almost ideal one, large and remarkably +well protected. As we approached the town, the usual procession of +harbour-master, doctor, and Custom-house officers came aboard. The +doctor soon saw that there was no work for his department, and the +Custom-house officers were easily convinced that we had no contraband +goods. The anchor was dropped, and we were free to land. I took my +cablegrams, and accompanied the harbour-master ashore.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XV: <a name="xv"></a> +The Eastern Sledge Journey</h2> + +<p>By Lieutenant K. Prestrud</p> + +<p>On October 20, 1911, the southern party started on their long +journey. The departure took place without much ceremony, and with the +smallest possible expenditure of words. A hearty grasp of the hand +serves the purpose quite as well on such occasions. I accompanied them +to the place we called the starting-point, on the south side of the +bay. After a final "Good luck" to our Chief and comrades -- as sincere +a wish as I have ever bestowed upon anyone -- I cinematographed the +caravan, and very soon after it was out of sight. Those fellows went +southward at a great pace, Helmer Hanssen's quick-footed team leading +as usual.</p> + +<p>There I stood, utterly alone, and I cannot deny that I was a prey +to somewhat mixed feelings. When should we see those five again, +who had just disappeared from view on the boundless plain, and in +what conditions? What sort of a report would they bring of the +result? There was plenty of room for guesses here, and abundant +opportunity for weighing every possibility, good and bad; but there +was very little to be gained by indulging in speculations of that +sort. The immediate facts first claimed attention. One fact, amongst +others, was that Framheim was a good three miles away; another was +that the cinematograph apparatus weighed a good many pounds; and a +third that Lindström would be mightily put out if I arrived too late +for dinner. Our chef insisted on a high standard of punctuality in the +matter of meal-times. Homeward, then, at the best speed possible. The +speed, however, was not particularly good, and I began to prepare for +the consequences of a long delay. On the other side of the bay I could +just make out a little black speck, that seemed to be in motion towards +me. I thought at first it was a seal, but, fortunately, it turned +out to be Jörgen Stubberud with six dogs and a sledge. This was quite +encouraging: in the first place, I should get rid of my unmanageable +burden, and in the second I might expect to get on faster. Stubberud's +team consisted, however, of four intractable puppies, besides Puss and +another courser of similar breed; the result was that our pace was a +modest one and our course anything but straight, so that we arrived +at Framheim two hours after the time appointed for dinner. Those who +know anything of Master Lindström and his disposition will easily be +able from this explanation to form an idea of his state of mind at +the moment when we entered the door. Yes, he was undoubtedly angry, +but we were at least equally hungry; and if anything can soften the +heart of a Norwegian caterer, it is a ravenous appetite in those he +has to feed, provided, of course, that he have enough to offer them, +and Lindström's supplies were practically unlimited.</p> + +<p>I remember that dinner well: at the same table where eight of us had +sat for so many months, there were now only three left -- Johansen, +Stubberud, and I. We had more room, it is true, but that gain was a +poor satisfaction. We missed those who had gone very badly, and our +thoughts were always following them. The first thing we discussed on +this occasion was how many miles they might be expected to do that +day: nor was this the last dispute we had on the same theme. During +the weeks and months that followed, it was constantly to the fore, +and gave plenty of material for conversation when we had exhausted +our own concerns. As regards these latter, my instructions were</p> + +<p>1. To go to King Edward VII. Land, and there carry out what exploration +time and circumstances might permit.</p> + +<p>2. To survey and map the Bay of Whales and its immediate surroundings.</p> + +<p>3. As far as possible to keep the station at Framheim in order, +in case we might have to spend another winter there.</p> + +<p>As regards time, my orders were to be back at Framheim before we +could reasonably expect the arrival of the Fram. This was, and would +necessarily remain, somewhat uncertain. No doubt we all had a great +idea of the Fram's capacity for keeping time, and Lieutenant Nilsen +had announced his intention of being back by Christmas or the New +Year; but nevertheless a year is a long time, and there are many +miles in a trip round the world. If we assumed that no mishap had +occurred to the Fram, and that she had left Buenos Aires at the time +fixed in the plan -- October 1, 1911 -- she would in all probability +be able to arrive at the Bay of Whales about the middle of January, +1912. On the basis of this calculation we decided, if possible, to +get the sledge journey to King Edward Land done before Christmas, +while the surveying work around the bay would have to be postponed +to the first half of January, 1912. I thought, however, seeing the +advantages of working while the bay was still frozen over, that it +would pay to devote a few days -- immediately following the departure +of the southern party -- to the preparatory work of measuring. But +this did not pay at all. We had reckoned without the weather, and in +consequence were well taken in. When one thinks over it afterwards, +it seems reasonable enough that the final victory of mild weather over +the remains of the Antarctic winter cannot be accomplished without +serious disturbances of the atmospheric conditions. The expulsion of +one evil has to be effected by the help of another; and the weather +was bad with a vengeance. During the two weeks that followed October 20 +there were only three or four days that offered any chance of working +with the theodolite and plane-table. We managed to get a base-line +measured, 1,000 metres long, and to lay out the greater part of the +east side of the bay, as well as the most prominent points round the +camp; but one had positively to snatch one's opportunities by stealth, +and every excursion ended regularly in bringing the instruments home +well covered with snow.</p> + +<p>If the bad weather thus put hindrances in the way of the work we +were anxious to do, it made up for it by providing us with a lot of +extra work which we could very well have done without. There was +incessant shovelling of snow to keep any sort of passage open to +the four dog-tents that were left standing, as well as to our own +underground dwelling, over which the snow covering had been growing +constantly higher. The fairly high wall that we had originally built +on the east side of the entrance door was now entirely buried in +the snow-drift. It had given us good protection; now the drift had +unimpeded access, and the opening, like the descent into a cellar, +that led down to the door, was filled up in the course of a few hours +when the wind was in the right quarter. Lindström shook his head when +we sometimes asked him how he would get on by himself if the weather +continued in this way. "So long as there's nothing but snow in the +way, I'll manage to get out," said he. One day he came and told us +that he could no longer get at the coal, and on further investigation +it looked rather difficult. The roof of the place where the coal was +stored had yielded to the pressure of the mass of snow, and the whole +edifice had collapsed. There was nothing to be done but to set to work +at once, and after a great deal of hard labour we got the remainder +of the precious fuel moved into the long snow tunnel that led from +the house to the coal-store. With that our "black diamonds" were in +safety for the time being. This job made us about as black as the +"diamonds." When we came in the cook, as it happened, had just been +doing a big wash on his own account -- a comparatively rare event -- +and there was surprise on both sides. The cook was as much taken +aback at seeing us so black as we were at seeing him so clean.</p> + +<p>All the snow-shovelling that resulted from the continued bad weather, +in conjunction with the necessary preparations for the sledge journey, +gave us plenty of occupation, but I will venture to say that none of +us would care to go through those days again. We were delayed in our +real work, and delay, which is unpleasant enough in any circumstances, +was all the more unwelcome down here, where time is so precious. As +we only had two sledges on which to transport supplies for three +men and sixteen dogs, besides all our outfit, and as on our trip we +should have no depots to fall back on, the duration of the journey +could not be extended much beyond six weeks. In order to be back +again by Christmas, we had, therefore, to leave before the middle of +November. It would do no harm, however, to be off before this, and as +soon as November arrived we took the first opportunity of disappearing.</p> + +<p>On account of getting on the right course, we preferred that the +start should take place in clear weather. The fact was that we were +obliged to go round by the depot in 80º S. As King Edward Land lies to +the east, or rather north-east, of Framheim, this was a considerable +detour; it had to be made, because in September we had left at this +depot all the packed sledging provisions, a good deal of our personal +equipment, and, finally, some of the necessary instruments.</p> + +<p>On the way to the depot, about thirty geographical miles south of +Framheim, we had the nasty crevassed surface that had been met with for +the first time on the third depot journey in the autumn of 1911 -- in +the month of April. At that time we came upon it altogether unawares, +and it was somewhat remarkable that we escaped from it with the loss +of two dogs. This broken surface lay in a depression about a mile to +the west of the route originally marked out; but, however it may have +been, it seems ever since that time to have exercised an irresistible +attraction. On our first attempt to go south, in September, 1911, +we came right into the middle of it, in spite of the fact that it +was then perfectly clear. I afterwards heard that in spite of all +their efforts, the southern party, on their last trip, landed in this +dangerous region, and that one man had a very narrow escape of falling +in with sledge and dogs. I had no wish to expose myself to the risk of +such accidents -- at any rate, while we were on familiar ground. That +would have been a bad beginning to my first independent piece of work +as a Polar explorer. A day or two of fine weather to begin with would +enable us to follow the line originally marked out, and thus keep +safe ground under our feet until the ugly place was passed.</p> + +<p>In the opening days of November the weather conditions began to +improve somewhat; in any case, there was not the continual driving +snow. Lindström asked us before we left to bring up a sufficient +quantity of seals, to save him that work as long as possible. The +supply we had had during the winter was almost exhausted; there was +only a certain amount of blubber left. We thought it only fair to +accede to his wish, as it is an awkward business to transport those +heavy beasts alone, especially when one has only a pack of unbroken +puppies to drive. We afterwards heard that Lindström had some amusing +experiences with them during the time he was left alone.</p> + +<p>Leaving the transport out of the question, this seal-hunting is a +very tame sport. An old Arctic hand or an Eskimo would certainly be +astounded to see the placid calm with which the Antarctic seal allows +itself to be shot and cut up. To them Antarctica would landed in this +dangerous region, and that one man had a very narrow escape of falling +in with sledge and dogs. I had no wish to expose myself to the risk of +such accidents -- at any rate, while we were on familiar ground. That +would have been a bad beginning to my first independent piece of work +as a Polar explorer. A day or two of fine weather to begin with would +enable us to follow the line originally marked out, and thus keep +safe ground under our feet until the ugly place was passed.</p> + +<p>In the opening days of November the weather conditions began to +improve somewhat; in any case, there was not the continual driving +snow. Lindström asked us before we left to bring up a sufficient +quantity of seals, to save him that work as long as possible. The +supply we had had during the winter was almost exhausted; there was +only a certain amount of blubber left. We thought it only fair to +accede to his wish, as it is an awkward business to transport those +heavy beasts alone, especially when one has only a pack of unbroken +puppies to drive. We afterwards heard that Lindström had some amusing +experiences with them during the time he was left alone.</p> + +<p>Leaving the transport out of the question, this seal-hunting is a +very tame sport. An old Arctic hand or an Eskimo would certainly +be astounded to see the placid calm with which the Antarctic seal +allows itself to be shot and cut up. To them Antarctica would but +it seldom removes itself many yards at a time, for the motions of +the seal are just as clumsy and slow on land as they are active and +swift in the water. When it has crawled with great pains to a little +distance, there is no sign that the interruption has made any lasting +impression on it. It looks more as if it took it all as an unpleasant +dream or nightmare, which it would be best to sleep off as soon as +possible. If one shoots a single seal, this may happen without those +lying round so much as raising their heads. Indeed, we could open +and cut up a seal right before the noses of its companions without +this making the slightest impression on them.</p> + +<p>About the beginning of November the seals began to have their young. So +far as we could make out, the females kept out of the water for +several days without taking any food, until the young one was big +enough to be able to go to sea; otherwise, it did not seem that the +mothers cared very much for their little ones. Some, it is true, made +a sort of attempt to protect their offspring if they were disturbed, +but the majority simply left their young ones in the lurch.</p> + +<p>As far as we were concerned, we left the females and their young +as much as possible in peace. We killed two or three new-born seals +to get the skins for our collection. It was another matter with the +dogs. With them seal-hunting was far too favourite a sport for the +opportunity to be neglected. Against a full-grown seal, however, +they could do nothing; its body offered no particularly vulnerable +spots, and the thick, tight-fitting skin was too much even for dogs' +teeth. The utmost the rascals could accomplish was to annoy and +torment the object of their attack. It was quite another matter when +the young ones began to arrive. Among this small game the enterprising +hunters could easily satisfy their inborn craving for murder, for the +scoundrels only killed for the sake of killing; they were not at all +hungry, as they had as much food as they liked. Of course, we did all +we could to put a stop to this state of things, and so long as there +were several of us at the hut, we saw that the whole pack was tied up; +but when Lindström was left by himself, he could not manage to hold +them fast. His tents were altogether snowed under in the weather that +prevailed on the seaboard in December. There were not many dogs left +in his charge, but I am afraid those few wrought great havoc among the +young seals out on the ice of the bay. The poor mothers could hardly +have done anything against a lot of dogs, even if they had been more +courageous. Their enemies were too active. For them it was the work +of a moment to snatch the young one from the side of its mother, +and then they were able to take the poor thing's life undisturbed.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, there were no sea-leopards in the neighbourhood of +Framheim. These, which are far quicker in their movements than the +Weddell seal, and are, moreover, furnished with a formidable set of +teeth, would certainly have made the four-footed seal-hunters more +careful in their behaviour.</p> + +<p>After we had brought up to the house enough seals' carcasses to keep +the ten or twelve dogs that would be left supplied for a good while, +and had cut up a sufficient quantity for our own use on the way to 80º +S., we took the first opportunity of getting away. Before I pass on +to give an account of our trip, I wish to say a few words about my +companions -- Johansen and Stubberud. It goes without saying that it +gave me, as a beginner, a great feeling of security to have with me +such a man as Johansen, who possessed many years' experience of all +that pertains to sledging expeditions; and as regards Stubberud, I +could not have wished for a better travelling companion than him either +-- a first-rate fellow, steady and efficient in word and deed. As it +turned out, we were not to encounter very many difficulties, but one +never escapes scot-free on a sledge journey in these regions. I owe +my comrades thanks for the way in which they both did their best to +smooth our path.</p> + +<p>Johansen and Stubberud drove their dog-teams; I myself acted as +"forerunner." The drivers had seven dogs apiece. We took so many, +because we were not quite sure of what the animals we had were fit +for. As was right and proper, the southern party had picked out +the best. Among those at our disposal there were several that had +previously shown signs of being rather quickly tired. True, this +happened under very severe conditions. As it turned out, our dogs +exceeded all our expectations in the easier conditions of work that +prevailed during the summer. On the first part of the way -- as far as +the depot in 80º S. -- the loads were quite modest. Besides the tent, +the sleeping-bags, our personal outfit, and instruments, we only had +provisions for eight days-seals' flesh for the dogs, and tinned food +for ourselves. Our real supplies were to be taken from the depot, +where there was enough of everything.</p> + +<p>On November 8 we left Framheim, where in future Lindström was to +reside as monarch of all he surveyed. The weather was as fine as +could be wished. I was out with the cinematograph apparatus, in +order if possible to immortalize the start. To complete the series +of pictures, Lindström was to take the forerunner, who was now, be it +said, a good way behind those he was supposed to be leading. With all +possible emphasis I enjoined Lindström only to give the crank five +or six turns, and then started off to catch up the drivers. When +I had nearly reached the provision store I pulled up, struck by a +sudden apprehension. Yes, I was right on looking back I discovered +that incorrigible person still hard at work with the crank, as though +he were going to be paid a pound for every yard of film showing the +back view of the forerunner. By making threatening gestures with a +ski-pole I stopped the too persistent cinematograph, and then went +on to join Stubberud, who was only a few yards ahead. Johansen had +disappeared like a meteor. The last I saw of him was the soles of his +boots, as he quite unexpectedly made an elegant backward somersault +off the sledge when it was passing over a little unevenness by the +provision store. The dogs, of course, made off at full speed, and +Johansen after them like the wind. We all met again safe and sound at +the ascent to the Barrier. Here a proper order of march was formed, +and we proceeded southward.</p> + +<p>The Barrier greeted us with a fresh south wind, that now and then made +an attempt to freeze the tip of one's nose; it did not succeed in this, +but it delayed us a little. It does not take a great deal of wind +on this level plain to diminish the rate of one's progress. But the +sun shone too gaily that day to allow a trifle of wind to interfere +very much with our enjoyment of life. The surface was so firm that +there was hardly a sign of drift-snow. As it was perfectly clear, the +mark-flags could be followed the whole time, thus assuring us that, +at any rate, the first day's march would be accomplished without any +deviation from the right track.</p> + +<p>At five o'clock we camped, and when we had fed the dogs and come into +the tent we could feel how much easier and pleasanter everything was +at this season than on the former journeys in autumn and spring. We +could move freely in a convenient costume; if we wished, there was +nothing to prevent our performing all the work of the camp with +bare hands and still preserving our finger-tips unharmed. As I had +no dog-team to look after, I undertook the duty of attending to our +own needs; that is to say, I acted as cook. This occupation also was +considerably easier now than it had been when the temperature was +below -60º F. At that time it took half an hour to turn the snow in +the cooker into water; now it was done in ten minutes, and the cook +ran no risk whatever of getting his fingers frozen in the process.</p> + +<p>Ever since we landed on the Barrier in January, 1911, we had been +expecting to hear a violent cannonade as the result of the movement of +the mass of ice. We had now lived a whole winter at Framheim without +having observed, as far as I know, the slightest sign of a sound. This +was one of many indications that the ice round our winter-quarters +was not in motion at all.</p> + +<p>No one, I believe, had noticed anything of the expected noise on the +sledge journeys either, but at the place where we camped on the night +of November 8 we did hear it. There was a report about once in two +minutes, not exactly loud, but still, there it was. It sounded just +as if there was a whole battery of small guns in action down in the +depths below us. A few hundred yards to the west of the camp there +were a number of small hummocks, which might indicate the presence +of crevasses, but otherwise the surface looked safe enough. The small +guns kept up a lively crackle all through the night, and combined with +a good deal of uproar among the dogs to shorten our sleep. But the +first night of a sledge journey is almost always a bad one. Stubberud +declared that he could not close his eyes on account of "that filthy +row." He probably expected the ice to open and swallow him up every +time he heard it. The surface, however, held securely, and we turned +out to the finest day one could wish to see. It did not require any +very great strength of mind to get out of one's sleeping-bag now. The +stockings that had been hung up in the evening could be put on again +as dry as a bone; the sun had seen to that. Our ski boots were as soft +as ever; there was not a sign of frost on them. It is quite curious to +see the behaviour of the dogs when the first head appears through the +tent-door in the morning. They greet their lord and master with the +most unmistakable signs of joy, although, of course, they must know +that his arrival will be followed by many hours of toil, with, perhaps, +a few doses of the whip thrown in; but from the moment he begins to +handle the sledge, the dogs look as if they had no desire in the world +but to get into the harness as soon as possible and start away. On days +like this their troubles would be few; with the light load and good +going we had no difficulty in covering nineteen geographical miles +in eight hours. Johansen's team was on my heels the whole time, and +Stubberud's animals followed faithfully behind. From time to time we +saw sledge-tracks quite plainly; we also kept the mark-flags in sight +all day. In the temperatures we now had to deal with our costume was +comparatively light -- certainly much lighter than most people imagine; +for there is a kind of summer even in Antarctica, although the daily +readings of the thermometer at this season would perhaps rather remind +our friends at home of what they are accustomed to regard as winter.</p> + +<p>In undertaking a sledge journey down there in autumn or spring, +the most extraordinary precautions have to be taken to protect +oneself against the cold. Skin clothing is then the only thing +that is of any use; but at this time of year, when the sun is above +the horizon for the whole twenty-four hours, one can go for a long +time without being more heavily clad than a lumberman working in +the woods. During the march our clothing was usually the following: +two sets of woollen underclothes, of which that nearest the skin was +quite thin. Outside the shirt we wore either an ordinary waistcoat +or a comparatively light knitted woollen jersey. Outside all came our +excellent Burberry clothes -- trousers and jacket. When it was calm, +with full sunshine, the Burberry jacket was too warm; we could then +go all day in our shirt-sleeves. To be provided for emergencies, +we all had our thinnest reindeer-skin clothes with us; but, so far +as I know, these were never used, except as pillows or mattresses.</p> + +<p>The subject of sleeping-bags has no doubt been thoroughly threshed +out on every Polar expedition. I do not know how many times we +discussed this question, nor can I remember the number of more or +less successful patents that were the fruit of these discussions. In +any case, one thing is certain, that the adherents of one-man bags +were in an overwhelming majority, and no doubt rightly. As regards +two-man bags, it cannot be denied that they enable their occupants +to keep warm longer; but it is always difficult to find room for two +big men in one sack, and if the sack is to be used for sleeping in, +and one of the big men takes to snoring into the other's ear, the +situation may become quite unendurable. In the temperatures we had +on the summer journeys there was no difficulty in keeping warm enough +with the one-man bags, and they were used by all of us.</p> + +<p>On the first southern journey, in September, Johansen and I used a +double bag between us; in the intense cold that prevailed at that +time we managed to get through the night without freezing; but if the +weather is so cold that one cannot keep warmth in one's body in good, +roomy one-man bags, then it is altogether unfit for sledging journeys.</p> + +<p>November 10. -- Immediately after the start this morning we tried how +we could get on without a forerunner. As long as we were in the line +of flags this answered very well; the dogs galloped from one flag to +another, while I was able to adopt the easy method of hanging on to +Stubberud's sledge. About midday we were abreast of the depression +already mentioned, where, on the third depot journey last autumn, we +ran into a regular net of crevasses. This time we were aware of the +danger, and kept to the left; but at the last moment the leading team +ran out to the wrong side, and we cut across the eastern part of the +dangerous zone. Fortunately it was taken at full gallop. It is quite +possible that I inwardly wished we were all a few pounds lighter, +as our little caravan raced across those thin snow bridges, through +which could be seen the blue colour of the ugly gulfs below. But after +the lapse of a few long minutes we could congratulate ourselves on +getting over with our full numbers.</p> + +<p>Not for anything would I have gone that mile without ski on my feet; it +would practically have meant falling in and going out. It is, perhaps, +saying a good deal to claim that with ski on, one is absolutely secured +against the danger these crevasses present; if misfortunes are abroad, +anything may happen. But it would require a very considerable amount +of bad luck for man and ski to fall through.</p> + +<p>November 11. -- In weather like this, going on the march is like +going to a dance: tent, sleeping-bags, and clothes keep soft and dry +as a bone. The thermometer is about -4º F. A fellow-man suddenly put +down in our midst from civilized surroundings would possibly shake +his head at so many degrees of frost, but it must be remembered that +we have long ago abandoned the ordinary ideas of civilized people as +to what is endurable in the way of temperature. We are enthusiastic +about the spring-like weather, especially when we remember what it +was like down here two months ago, when the thermometer showed -76º +F., and the rime hung an inch thick inside the tent, ready to drop +on everything and everybody at the slightest movement. Now there is +no rime to be seen; the sun clears it away. For now there is a sun; +not the feeble imitation of one that stuck its red face above the +northern horizon in August, but our good old acquaintance of lower +latitudes, with his wealth of light and warmth.</p> + +<p>After two hours' march we came in sight, at ten o'clock in the +morning, of the two snow-huts that were built on the last trip. We +made straight for them, thinking we might possibly find some trace +of the southern party. So we did, though in a very different way +from what we expected. We were, perhaps, about a mile off when we +all three suddenly halted and stared at the huts. "There are men," +said Stubberud. At any rate there was something black that moved, +and after confused thoughts of Japanese, Englishmen, and the like had +flashed through our minds, we at last got out the glasses. It was not +men, but a dog. Well, the presence of a live dog here, seventy-five +miles up the Barrier, was in itself a remarkable thing. It must, of +course, be one of the southern party's dogs, but how the runaway had +kept himself alive all that time was for the present a mystery. On +coming to closer quarters we soon found that it was one of Hassel's +dogs, Peary by name. He was a little shy to begin with, but when he +heard his name he quickly understood that we were friends come on a +visit, and no longer hesitated to approach us. He was fat and round, +and evidently pleased to see us again. The hermit had lived on the +lamentable remains of poor Sara, whom we had been obliged to kill here +in September. Sara's lean and frozen body did not seem particularly +adapted for making anyone fat, and yet our newly-found friend Peary +looked as if he had been feasting for weeks. Possibly he had begun +by devouring Neptune, another of his companions, who had also given +the southern party the slip on the way to the depot in 80º S. However +this may be, Peary's rest cure came to an abrupt conclusion. Stubberud +took him and put him in his team.</p> + +<p>We had thought of reaching the depot before the close of the day, +and this we could easily have done if the good going had continued; +but during the afternoon the surface became so loose that the dogs +sank in up to their chests, and when -- at about six in the evening -- +the sledge-meter showed twenty-one geographical miles, the animals +were so done up that it was no use going on.</p> + +<p>At eleven o'clock the next morning -- Sunday, November 12 -- we +reached the depot. Captain Amundsen had promised to leave a brief +report when the southern party left here, and the first thing we did +on arrival was, of course, to search for the document in the place +agreed upon. There were not many words on the little slip of paper, +but they gave us the welcome intelligence: "All well so far."</p> + +<p>We had expected that the southern party's dogs would have finished +the greater part, if not the whole, of the seal meat that was laid +down here in April; but fortunately this was not the case. There was +a great quantity left, so that we could give our own dogs a hearty +feed with easy consciences. They had it, too, and it was no trifling +amount that they got through. The four days' trot from Framheim had +been enough to produce an unusual appetite. There was a puppy in +Johansen's team that was exposed for the first time in his life to +the fatigues of a sledge journey. This was a plucky little chap that +went by the name of Lillegut. The sudden change from short commons +to abundance was too much for his small stomach, and the poor puppy +lay shrieking in the snow most of the afternoon.</p> + +<p>We also looked after ourselves that day, and had a good meal of fresh +seal meat; after that we supplied ourselves from the large stores that +lay here with the necessary provisions for a sledge journey of five +weeks: three cases of dogs' pemmican, one case of men's pemmican, +containing ninety rations, 20 pounds of dried milk, 55 pounds of +oatmeal biscuits, and three tins of malted milk, besides instruments, +Alpine rope, and clothing. The necessary quantity of chocolate had +been brought with us from Framheim, as there was none of this to +spare out in the field. Our stock of paraffin was 6 1/2 gallons, +divided between two tanks, one on each sledge. Our cooking outfit +was exactly the same as that used by the southern party.</p> + +<p>The instruments we carried were a theodolite, a hypsometer, two +aneroids, one of which was no larger than an ordinary watch, two +thermometers, one chronometer watch, one ordinary watch, and one +photographic camera (Kodak 3 x 3 inches), adapted for using either +plates or films. We had three spools of film, and one dozen plates.</p> + +<p>Our medical outfit was exceedingly simple. It consisted of nothing +but a box of laxative pills, three small rolls of gauze bandage, and +a small pair of scissors, which also did duty for beard-cutting. Both +pills and gauze were untouched when we returned; it may therefore be +safely said that our state of health during the journey was excellent.</p> + +<p>While the drivers were packing and lashing their loads, which now +weighed nearly 600 pounds, I wrote a report to the Chief, and took an +azimuth observation to determine the direction of our course. According +to our instructions we should really have taken a north-easterly +course from here; but as our dogs seemed to be capable of more and +better work than we had expected, and as there was believed to be a +possibility that bare land was to be found due east of the spot where +we were, it was decided to make an attempt in that direction.</p> + +<p>Our old enemy the fog had made its appearance in the course of the +night, and now hung, grey and disgusting, under the sky, when we +broke camp at the depot on the morning of November 13. However, it +was not so bad as to prevent our following the flags that marked the +depot on the east.</p> + +<p>My duty as forerunner was immediately found to be considerably lighter +than before. With the greatly increased weight behind them the dogs had +all they could do to follow, if I went at an ordinary walking pace. At +11 a.m. we passed the easternmost flag, at five geographical miles from +the depot, and then we found ourselves on untrodden ground. A light +southerly breeze appeared very opportunely and swept away the fog; +the sun again shed its light over the Barrier, which lay before us, +shining and level, as we had been accustomed to see it. There was, +however, one difference: with every mile we covered there was the +possibility of seeing something new. The going was excellent, although +the surface was rather looser than one could have wished. The ski flew +over it finely, of course, while dogs' feet and sledge-runners sank +in. I hope I shall never have to go here without ski; that would be +a terrible punishment; but with ski on one's feet and in such weather +it was pure enjoyment.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the new sights we expected were slow in coming. We marched +for four days due east without seeing a sign of change in the ground; +there was the same undulating surface that we knew so well from +previous expeditions. The readings of the hypsometer gave practically +the same result day after day; the ascent we were looking for failed +to appear.</p> + +<p>Stubberud, who for the first day or two after leaving the depot had +been constantly stretching himself on tiptoe and looking out for +mountain-tops, finally gave it as his heartfelt conviction that this +King Edward Land we were hunting for was only a confounded "Flyaway +Land," which had nothing to do with reality. We others were not yet +quite prepared to share this view; for my own part, in any case, I was +loth to give up the theory that assumed a southward continuation of +King Edward Land along the 158th meridian; this theory had acquired +a certain force during the winter, and was mainly supported by the +fact that on the second depot journey we had seen, between the 81st +and 82nd parallels, some big pressure-ridges, which suggested the +presence of bare land in a south-easterly direction.</p> + +<p>On November 16 we found ourselves at the 158th meridian, but on +every side the eye encountered the level, uninterrupted snow surface +and nothing else. Should we go on? It was tempting enough, as the +probability was that sooner or later we should come upon something; +but there was a point in our instructions that had to be followed, and +it said: Go to the point where land is marked on the chart. This point +was now about 120 geographical miles to the north of us. Therefore, +instead of going on to the east in uncertainty, we decided to turn to +the left and go north. The position of the spot where we altered our +course was determined, and it was marked by a snow beacon 7 feet high, +on the top of which was placed a tin box containing a brief report.</p> + +<p>On that part of the way which we now had before us there was little +prospect of meeting with surprises; nor did any fall to our lot. In +day's marches that varied from seventeen to twenty geographical miles, +we went forward over practically level ground. The nature of the +surface was at first ideal; but as we came farther north and thus +nearer to the sea, our progress was impeded by a great number of big +snow-waves (sastrugi), which had probably been formed during the long +period of bad weather that preceded our departure from Framheim. We +did not escape damage on this bad surface. Stubberud broke the forward +part of the spare ski he had lashed under his sledge, and Johansen's +sledge also suffered from the continual bumping against the hard +sastrugi. Luckily he had been foreseeing enough to bring a little +hickory bar, which came in very handy as a splint for the broken part.</p> + +<p>As we were now following the direction of the meridian, or in other +words, as our course was now true north, the daily observations of +latitude gave a direct check on the readings of the sledge-meter. As +a rule they agreed to the nearest minute. Whilst I was taking +the noon altitude my companions had the choice of standing by the +side of their sledges and eating their lunch, or setting the tent +and taking shelter. They generally chose the latter alternative, +making up for it by going an hour longer in the afternoon. Besides +the astronomical observations, the barometric pressure, temperature, +force and direction of the wind, and amount of cloud were noted three +times daily; every evening a hypsometer reading was taken.</p> + +<p>If I were to undertake the description of a long series of days like +those that passed while we were travelling on the flat Barrier, +I am afraid the narrative would be strikingly reminiscent of the +celebrated song of a hundred and twenty verses, all with the same +rhyme. One day was very much like another. One would think that +this monotony would make the time long, but the direct opposite was +the case. I have never known time fly so rapidly as on these sledge +journeys, and seldom have I seen men more happy and contented with +their existence than we three, when after a successful day's march +we could set about taking our simple meal, with a pipe of cut plug to +follow. The bill of fare was identically the same every day, perhaps +a fault in the eyes of many; variety of diet is supposed to be the +thing. Hang variety, say I; appetite is what matters. To a man who +is really hungry it is a very subordinate matter what he shall eat; +the main thing is to have something to satisfy his hunger.</p> + +<p>After going north for seven days, we found that according to +observations and sledge-meter we ought to be in the neighbourhood of +the sea. This was correct. My diary for November 23 reads:</p> + +<p>"To-day we were to see something besides sky and snow. An hour after +breaking camp this morning two snowy petrels came sailing over us; +a little while later a couple of skua gulls. We welcomed them as the +first living creatures we had seen since leaving winter-quarters. The +constantly increasing 'water-sky' to the north had long ago warned +us that we were approaching the sea; the presence of the birds told +us it was not far off. The skua gulls settled very near us, and the +dogs, no doubt taking them for baby seals, were of course ready to +break the line of march, and go off hunting, but their keenness soon +passed when they discovered that the game had wings.</p> + +<p>"The edge of the Barrier was difficult to see, and, profiting by +previous experience of how easy it is to go down when the light is bad, +we felt our way forward step by step. At four o'clock we thought we +could see the precipice. A halt was made at a safe distance, and I +went in advance to look over. To my surprise I found that there was +open water right in to the wall of ice. We had expected the sea-ice +to extend a good way out still, seeing it was so early in summer; but +there lay the sea, almost free of ice as far as the horizon. Black +and threatening it was to look at, but still a beneficent contrast +to the everlasting snow surface on which we had now tramped for 300 +geographical miles.</p> + +<p>The perpendicular drop of 100 feet that forms the boundary between +the dead Barrier and the sea, with its varied swarm of life, is +truly an abrupt and imposing transition. The panorama from the top +of the ice-wall is always grand, and it can be beautiful as well. On +a sunny day, or still more on a moonlit night, it has a fairylike +beauty. To-day a heavy, black sky hung above a still blacker sea, and +the ice-wall, which shines in the light with a dazzling white purity, +looked more like an old white-washed wall than anything else. There +was not a breath of wind; the sound of the surf at the bottom of the +precipice now and then reached my ears -- this was the only thing +that broke the vast silence. One's own dear self becomes so miserably +small in these mighty surroundings; it was a sheer relief to get back +to the company of my comrades."</p> + +<p>As things now were, with open water up to the Barrier itself, our +prospect of getting seals here at the edge of the ice seemed a poor +one. Next morning, however, we found, a few miles farther east, a +bay about four miles long, and almost entirely enclosed. It was still +frozen over, and seals were lying on the ice by the dozen. Here was +food enough to give both ourselves and the dogs an extra feed and to +replenish our supplies. We camped and went off to examine the ground +more closely. There were plenty of crevasses, but a practicable descent +was found, and in a very short time three full-grown seals and a fat +young one were despatched. We hauled half a carcass up to the camp +with the Alpine rope. As we were hard at work dragging our spoil up +the steep slope, we heard Stubberud sing out, "Below, there!" -- +and away he went like a stone in a well. He had gone through the +snow-bridge on which we were standing, but a lucky projection stopped +our friend from going very far down, besides which he had taken a +firm round turn with the rope round his wrist. It was, therefore, +a comparatively easy matter to get him up on the surface again. This +little intermezzo would probably have been avoided if we had not been +without our ski, but the slope was so steep and smooth that we could +not use them. After a few more hauls we had the seal up by the tent, +where a large quantity of it disappeared in a surprisingly short time +down the throats of fifteen hungry dogs.</p> + +<p>The ice of the bay was furrowed by numerous leads, and while the +hunters were busy cutting up the seals, I tried to get a sounding, +but the thirty fathoms of Alpine rope I had were not enough; no +bottom was reached. After having something to eat we went down again, +in order if possible to find out the depth. This time we were better +supplied with sounding tackle two reels of thread, a marlinspike, +and our geological hammer.</p> + +<p>First the marlinspike was sent down with the thread as a line. An +inquisitive lout of a seal did all it could to bite through the thread, +but whether this was too strong or its teeth too poor, we managed +after a lot of trouble to coax the marlinspike up again, and the +interfering rascal, who had to come up to the surface now and then +to take breath, got the spike of a ski-pole in his thick hide. This +unexpected treatment was evidently not at all to his liking, and +after acknowledging it by a roar of disgust, he vanished into the +depths. Now we got on better. The marlinspike sank and sank until +it had drawn with it 130 fathoms of thread. A very small piece of +seaweed clung to the thread as we hauled it in again; on the spike +there was nothing to be seen. As its weight was rather light for so +great a depth -- a possible setting of current might have carried it +a little to one side -- we decided to try once more with the hammer, +which was considerably heavier, in order to check the result. The +hammer, on the other hand, was so heavy, that with the delicate thread +as a line the probability of successfully carrying out the experiment +seemed small, but we had to risk it. The improvised sinker was well +smeared with blubber, and this time it sank so rapidly to the bottom +as to leave no doubt of the correctness of the sounding -- 130 fathoms +again. By using extreme care we succeeded in getting the hammer up +again in safety, but no specimen of the bottom was clinging to it.</p> + +<p>On the way back to camp we dragged with us the carcass of the young +seal. It was past three when we got into our sleeping-bags that night, +and, in consequence, we slept a good deal later than usual the next +morning. The forenoon was spent by Johansen and Stubberud in hauling +up another seal from the bay and packing as much flesh on the sledges +as possible. As fresh meat is a commodity that takes up a great deal +of space in proportion to its weight, the quantity we were able to +take with us was not large. The chief advantage we had gained was +that a considerable supply could be stored on the spot, and it might +be useful to fall back upon in case of delay or other mishaps.</p> + +<p>I took the observation for longitude and latitude, found the height by +hypsometer, and took some photographs. After laying down the depot and +erecting beacons, we broke camp at 3 p.m. South of the head of the bay +there were a number of elevations and pressure masses, exactly like the +formations to be found about Framheim. To the east a prominent ridge +appeared, and with the glass it could be seen to extend inland in a +south-easterly direction. According to our observations this must be +the same that Captain Scott has marked with land-shading on his chart.</p> + +<p>We made a wide detour outside the worst pressure-ridges, and then set +our course east-north-east towards the ridge just mentioned. It was a +pretty steep rise, which was not at all a good thing for the dogs. They +had overeaten themselves shockingly, and most of the seal's flesh +came up again. So that their feast should not be altogether wasted, +we stopped as soon as we had come far enough up the ridge to be able +to regard the surface as comparatively safe; for in the depression +round the bay it was somewhat doubtful.</p> + +<p>On the following morning -- Sunday, November 26 -- there was a gale +from the north-east with sky and Barrier lost in driving snow. That +put an end to our plans of a long Sunday march. In the midst of +our disappointment I had a sudden bright idea. It was Queen Maud's +birthday! If we could not go on, we could at least celebrate the day +in a modest fashion. In one of the provision cases there was still a +solitary Stavanger tin, containing salt beef and peas. It was opened +at once, and its contents provided a banquet that tasted better to us +than the most carefully chosen menu had ever done. In this connection +I cannot help thinking of the joy it would bring to many a household +in this world if its master were possessed of an appetite like +ours. The wife would then have no need to dread the consequences, +however serious the shortcomings of the cuisine might be. But to +return to the feast. Her Majesty's health was drunk in a very small, +but, at the same time, very good tot of aquavit, served in enamelled +iron mugs. Carrying alcohol was, of course, against regulations, +strictly speaking; but, as everyone knows, prohibition is not an +easy thing to put into practice. Even in Antarctica this proved to be +the case. Lindström had a habit of sending a little surprise packet +with each sledging party that went out, and on our departure he had +handed us one of these, with the injunction that the packet was only +to be opened on some festive occasion; we chose as such Her Majesty's +birthday. On examination the packet was found to contain a little flask +of spirits, in which we at once agreed to drink the Queen's health.</p> + +<p>The 27th brought the same nasty weather, and the 28th was not much +better, though not bad enough to stop us. After a deal of hard work +in hauling our buried belongings out of the snow, we got away and +continued our course to the north-eastward. It was not exactly an +agreeable morning: a brisk wind with driving snow right in one's +face. After trudging against this for a couple of hours I heard +Stubberud call "Halt!" -- half his team were hanging by the traces in a +crevasse. I had gone across without noticing anything; no doubt owing +to the snow in my face. One would think the dogs would be suspicious +of a place like this; but they are not -- they plunge on till the +snow-bridge breaks under them. Luckily the harness held, so that it +was the affair of a moment to pull the poor beasts up again. Even a +dog might well be expected to be a trifle shaken after hanging head +downwards over such a fearful chasm; but apparently they took it very +calmly, and were quite prepared to do the same thing over again.</p> + +<p>For my own part I looked out more carefully after this, and although +there were a good many ugly fissures on the remaining part of the +ascent, we crossed them all without further incident.</p> + +<p>Unpleasant as these crevasses are, they do not involve any direct +danger, so long as the weather is clear and the light favourable. One +can then judge by the appearance of the surface whether there is danger +ahead; and if crevasses are seen in time, there is always a suitable +crossing to be found. The case is somewhat different in fog, drift, +or when the light is such that the small inequalities marking the +course of the crevasse do not show up. This last is often the case in +cloudy weather, when even a fairly prominent rise will not be noticed +on the absolutely white surface until one falls over it. In such +conditions it is safest to feel one's way forward with the ski-pole; +though this mode of proceeding is more troublesome than effective.</p> + +<p>In the course of the 28th the ascent came to an end, and with it +the crevasses. The wind fell quite light, and the blinding drift was +succeeded by clear sunshine. We had now come sufficiently high up to +have a view of the sea far to the north-west. During the high wind +a quantity of ice had been driven southward, so that for a great +distance there was no open water to be seen, but a number of huge +icebergs. From the distance of the sea horizon we guessed our height +to be about 1,000 feet, and in the evening the hypsometer showed the +guess to be very nearly right.</p> + +<p>November 29. -- Weather and going all that could be wished on breaking +camp this morning; before us we had a level plateau, which appeared +to be quite free from unpleasant obstructions. When we halted for the +noon observation the sledge-meter showed ten geographical miles, and +before evening we had brought the day's distance up to twenty. The +latitude was then 77º 32'. The distance to the Barrier edge on the +north was, at a guess, about twenty geographical miles. We were now +a good way along the peninsula, the northern point of which Captain +Scott named Cape Colbeck, and at the same time a good way to the +east of the meridian in which he put land-shading on his chart. Our +height above the sea, which was now about 1,000 feet, was evidence +enough that we had firm land under us, but it was still sheathed in +ice. In that respect the landscape offered no change from what we had +learnt to know by the name of "Barrier." It cannot be denied that at +this juncture I began to entertain a certain doubt of the existence +of bare land in this quarter.</p> + +<p>This doubt was not diminished when we had done another good day's +march to the eastward on November 30. According to our observations we +were then just below the point where the Alexandra Mountains should +begin, but there was no sign of mountain ranges; the surface was a +little rougher, perhaps. However, it was still too soon to abandon +the hope. It would be unreasonable to expect any great degree of +accuracy of the chart we had to go by; its scale was far too large for +that. It was, moreover, more than probable that our own determination +of longitude was open to doubt.</p> + +<p>Assuming the approximate accuracy of the chart, by holding on to +the north-east we ought soon to come down to the seaboard, and with +this object in view we continued our march. On December 1, in the +middle of the day, we saw that everything agreed. From the top of an +eminence the sea was visible due north, and on the east two domed +summits were outlined, apparently high enough to be worthy of the +name of mountains. They were covered with snow, but on the north +side of them there was an abrupt precipice, in which many black +patches showed up sharply against the white background. It was still +too soon to form an idea as to whether they were bare rock or not; +they might possibly be fissures in the mass of ice. The appearance +of the summits agreed exactly with Captain Scott's description of +what he saw from the deck of the Discovery in 1902. He assumed that +the black patches were rocks emerging from the snow-slopes. As will +be seen later, our respected precursor was right.</p> + +<p>In order to examine the nature of the seaboard, we began by steering +down towards it; but in the meantime the weather underwent an +unfavourable change. The sky clouded over and the light became +as vile as it could be. The point we were anxious to clear up was +whether there was any Barrier wall here, or whether the land and +sea-ice gradually passed into each other in an easy slope. As the +light was, there might well have been a drop of 100 feet without our +seeing anything of it. Securely roped together we made our way down, +until our progress was stopped by a huge pressure-ridge, which, +as far as could be made out, formed the boundary between land and +sea-ice. It was, however, impossible in the circumstances to get +any clear view of the surroundings, and after trudging back to the +sledges, which had been left up on the slope, we turned to the east +to make a closer examination of the summits already mentioned. I went +in front, as usual, in the cheerful belief that we had a fairly level +stretch before us, but I was far out in my calculation. My ski began +to slip along at a terrific speed, and it was advisable to put on the +brake. This was easily done as far as I was concerned, but with the +dogs it was a different matter. Nothing could stop them when they +felt that the sledge was running by its own weight; they went in a +wild gallop down the slope, the end of which could not at present be +seen. I suppose it will sound like a tall story, but it is a fact, +nevertheless, that to our eyes the surface appeared to be horizontal +all the time. Snow, horizon and sky all ran together in a white chaos, +in which all lines of demarcation were obliterated.</p> + +<p>Fortunately nothing came of our expectation that the scamper would +have a frightful ending in some insidious abyss. It was stopped quite +naturally by an opposing slope, which appeared to be as steep as the +one we had just slid down. If the pace had been rather too rapid +before, there was now no ground of complaint on that score. Step +by step we crawled up to the top of the ridge; but the ground was +carefully surveyed before we proceeded farther.</p> + +<p>In the course of the afternoon we groped our way forward over a +whole series of ridges and intervening depressions. Although nothing +could be seen, it was obvious enough that our surroundings were now +of an entirely different character from anything we had previously +been accustomed to. The two mountain summits had disappeared in the +fleecy mist, but the increasing unevenness of the ground showed that +we were approaching them. Meanwhile I considered it inadvisable to +come to close quarters with them so long as we were unable to use +our eyes, and, remembering what happens when the blind leads the +blind, we camped. For the first time during the trip I had a touch of +snow-blindness that afternoon. This troublesome and rightly dreaded +complaint was a thing that we had hitherto succeeded in keeping off +by a judicious use of our excellent snow-goggles. Among my duties +as forerunner was that of maintaining the direction, and this, at +times, involved a very severe strain on the eyes. In thick weather +it is only too easy to yield to the temptation of throwing off the +protective goggles, with the idea that one can see better without +them. Although I knew perfectly well what the consequence would be, +I had that afternoon broken the commandment of prudence. The trifling +smart I felt in my eyes was cured by keeping the goggles on for +a couple of hours after we were in the tent. Like all other ills, +snow-blindness may easily be dispelled by taking it in time.</p> + +<p>Next morning the sun's disc could just be made out through a veil +of thin stratus clouds, and then the light was more or less normal +again. As soon as we could see what our surroundings were, it was clear +enough that we had done right in stopping the game of blind man's buff +we had been playing on the previous day. It might otherwise have had +an unpleasant ending. Right across our line of route and about 500 +yards from our camp the surface was so broken up that it was more +like a sieve than anything else. In the background the masses of +snow were piled in huge drifts down a steep slope on the north-west +side of the two mountains. It was impossible to take the sledges any +farther on the way we had hitherto been following, but in the course +of the day we worked round by a long detour to the foot of the most +westerly of the mountains. We were then about 1,000 feet above the +sea; to the north of us we had the abrupt descent already mentioned, +to the south it was quite flat. Our view to the east was shut in by +the two mountains, and our first idea was to ascend to the tops of +them, but the powers of the weather again opposed us with their full +force. A stiff south-east wind set in and increased in the course of +half an hour to a regular blizzard. Little as it suited our wishes, +there was nothing to be done but to creep back into the tent. For +a whole month now we had seen scarcely anything but fair weather, +and the advance of summer had given us hopes that it would hold; +but just when it suited us least of all came a dismal change.</p> + +<p>The light Antarctic summer night ran its course, while the gusts +of wind tugged and tore at the thin sides of our tent; no snowfall +accompanied the south-easterly wind, but the loose snow of the surface +was whirled up into a drift that stood like an impenetrable wall round +the tent. After midnight it moderated a little, and by four o'clock +there was comparatively fair weather. We were on our feet at once, put +together camera, glasses, aneroids, axe, Alpine rope, with some lumps +of pemmican to eat on the way, and then went off for a morning walk +with the nearer of the two hills as our goal. All three of us went, +leaving the dogs in charge of the camp. They were not so fresh now that +they would not gladly accept all the rest that was offered them. We +had no need to fear any invasion of strangers; the land we had come +to appeared to be absolutely devoid of living creatures of any kind.</p> + +<p>The hill was farther off and higher than it appeared at first; the +aneroid showed a rise of 700 feet when we reached the top. As our +camp lay at a height of 1,000 feet, this gave us 1,700 feet as the +height of this hill above the sea. The side we went up was covered +by névé, which, to judge from the depth of the cracks, must have been +immense. As we approached the summit and our view over the surrounding +ground became wider, the belief that we should see so much as a crag +of this King Edward Land grew weaker and weaker. There was nothing +but white on every side, not a single consolatory little black patch, +however carefully we looked. And to think that we had been dreaming +of great mountain masses in the style of McMurdo Sound, with sunny +slopes, penguins by the thousand, seals and all the rest! All these +visions were slowly but surely sunk in an endless sea of snow, and +when at last we stood on the highest point, we certainly thought +there could be no chance of a revival of our hopes.</p> + +<p>But the unexpected happened after all. On the precipitous northern +side of the adjacent hill our eyes fell upon bare rock -- the +first glimpse we had had of positive land during the year we had +been in Antarctica. Our next thought was of how to get to it and +take specimens, and with this object we at once began to scale the +neighbouring hill, which was a trifle higher than the one we had +first ascended. The precipice was, however, perpendicular, with a +huge snow cornice over-hanging it. Lowering a man on the rope would be +rather too hazardous a proceeding; besides which, a length of thirty +yards would not go very far. If we were to get at the rock, it would +have to be from below. In the meantime we availed ourselves of the +opportunity offered by the clear weather to make a closer examination +of our surroundings. From the isolated summit, 1,700 feet high, on +which we stood, the view was fairly extensive. Down to the sea on +the north the distance was about five geographical miles. The surface +descended in terraces towards the edge of the water, where there was +quite a low Barrier wall. As might be expected, this stretch of the +ice-field was broken by innumerable crevasses, rendering any passage +across it impossible.</p> + +<p>On the east extended a well-marked mountain-ridge, about twenty +geographical miles in length, and somewhat lower than the summit on +which we stood. This was the Alexandra Mountains. It could not be +called an imposing range, and it was snow-clad from one end to the +other. Only on the most easterly spur was the rock just visible.</p> + +<p>On the south and south-west nothing was to be seen but the usual +undulating Barrier surface. Biscoe Bay, as Captain Scott has named +it, was for the moment a gathering-place for numerous icebergs; one +or two of these seemed to be aground. The inmost corner of the bay +was covered with sea-ice. On its eastern side the Barrier edge could +be seen to continue northward, as marked in Captain Scott's chart; +but no indication of bare land was visible in that quarter.</p> + +<p>Having built a snow beacon, 6 feet high, on the summit, we put on our +ski again and went down the eastern slope of the hill at a whizzing +pace. On this side there was an approach to the level on the north +of the precipice, and we availed ourselves of it. Seen from below +the mountain crest looked quite grand, with a perpendicular drop +of about 1,000 feet. The cliff was covered with ice up to a height +of about 100 feet, and this circumstance threatened to be a serious +obstacle to our obtaining specimens of the rocks. But in one place +a nunatak about 250 feet high stood out in front of the precipice, +and the ascent of this offered no great difficulty.</p> + +<p>A wall of rock of very ordinary appearance is not usually reckoned +among things capable of attracting the attention of the human eye +to any marked extent; nevertheless, we three stood and gazed at it, +as though we had something of extraordinary beauty and interest before +us. The explanation is very simple, if we remember the old saying about +the charm of variety. A sailor, who for months has seen nothing but +sea and sky, will lose himself in contemplation of a little islet, +be it never so barren and desolate. To us, who for nearly a year +had been staring our eyes out in a dazzling white infinity of snow +and ice, it was indeed an experience to see once more a bit of the +earth's crust. That this fragment was as poor and bare as it could +be was not taken into consideration at the moment.</p> + +<p>The mere sight of the naked rock was, however, only an anticipatory +pleasure. A more substantial one was the feeling of again being able +to move on ground that afforded a sure and trustworthy foothold. It +is possible that we behaved rather like children on first reaching +bare land. One of us, in any case, found immense enjoyment in rolling +one big block after another down the steep slopes of the nunatak. At +any rate, the sport had the interest of novelty.</p> + +<p>This little peak was built up of very heterogenous materials. As the +practical result of our visit, we brought away a fairly abundant +collection of specimens of all the rocks to be found there. Not +being a specialist, I cannot undertake any classification of the +specimens. It will be the task of geologists to deal with them, and +to obtain if possible some information as to the structure of the +country. I will only mention that some of the stones were so heavy +that they must certainly have contained metallic ore of one kind or +another. On returning to camp that evening, we tried them with the +compass-needle, and it showed very marked attraction in the case of +one or two of the specimens. These must, therefore, contain iron-ore.</p> + +<p>This spur, which had been severely handled by ice-pressure and the +ravages of time, offered a poor chance of finding what we coveted most +-- namely, fossils -- and the most diligent search proved unsuccessful +in this respect. From finds that have been made in other parts of +Antarctica it is known that in former geological periods -- the +Jurassic epoch -- even this desolate continent possessed a rich and +luxurious vegetation. The leader of the Swedish expedition to Graham +Land, Dr. Nordenskjöld, and his companion, Gunnar Andersson, were +the first to make this exceedingly interesting and important discovery.</p> + +<p>While it did not fall to our lot to furnish any proof of the existence +of an earlier flora in King Edward Land, we found living plants of +the most primitive form. Even on that tiny islet in the ocean of +snow the rock was in many places covered with thick moss. How did +that moss come there? Its occurrence might, perhaps, be quoted in +support of the hypothesis of the genesis of organic life from, dead +matter. This disputed question must here be left open, but it may be +mentioned in the same connection that we found the remains of birds' +nests in many places among the rocks. Possibly the occupants of these +nests may have been instrumental in the conveyance of the moss.</p> + +<p>Otherwise, the signs of bird life were very few. One or two solitary +snowy petrels circled round the summit while we were there; that +was all.</p> + +<p>It was highly important to obtain some successful photographs from +this spot, and I was setting about the necessary preparations, when +one of my companions made a remark about the changed appearance of the +sky. Busy with other things, I had entirely neglected to keep an eye +on the weather, an omission for which, as will be seen, we might have +had to pay dearly. Fortunately, another had been more watchful than +I, and the warning came in time. A glance was enough to convince me +of the imminent approach of a snow-storm; the fiery red sky and the +heavy ring round the sun spoke a language that was only too clear. We +had a good hour's march to the tent, and the possibility of being +surprised by the storm before we arrived was practically equivalent +to never arriving at all.</p> + +<p>We very soon put our things together, and came down the nunatak +even more quickly. On the steep slopes leading up to the plateau on +which the tent stood the pace was a good deal slower, though we made +every possible effort to hurry. There was no need to trouble about +the course; we had only to follow the trail of our own ski -- so +long as it was visible. But the drift was beginning to blot it out, +and if it once did that, any attempt at finding the tent would be +hopeless. For a long and anxious quarter of an hour it looked as if +we should be too late, until at last the tent came in sight, and we +were saved. We had escaped the blizzard so far; a few minutes later +it burst in all its fury, and the whirling snow was so thick that it +would have been impossible to see the tent at a distance of ten paces, +but by then we were all safe and sound inside. Ravenously hungry +after the twelve hours that had passed since our last proper meal, we +cooked an extra large portion of pemmican and the same of chocolate, +and with this sumptuous repast we celebrated the event of the day -- +the discovery of land. From what we had seen in the course of the day +it might be regarded as certain that we should be disappointed in our +hopes of finding any great and interesting field for our labours in +this quarter; King Edward Land was still far too well hidden under +eternal snow and ice to give us that. But even the establishment of +this, to us, somewhat unwelcome fact marked an increase of positive +human knowledge of the territory that bears the name of King Edward +VII.; and with the geological specimens that we had collected, we were +in possession of a tangible proof of the actual existence of solid +ground in a region which otherwise bore the greatest resemblance to +what we called "Barrier" elsewhere, or in any case to the Barrier as +it appears in the neighbourhood of our winter-quarters at Framheim.</p> + +<p>Monday, December 4. -- The gale kept on at full force all night, +and increased rather than moderated as the day advanced. As usual, +the storm was accompanied by a very marked rise of temperature. At the +noon observation to-day the reading was + 26.6º F. This is the highest +temperature we have had so far on this trip, and a good deal higher +than we care about. When the mercury comes so near freezing-point as +this, the floor of the tent is always damp.</p> + +<p>To-day, for once in a way, we have falling snow, and enough of it. It +is snowing incessantly -- big, hard flakes, almost like hail. When the +cooker was filled to provide water for dinner, the half-melted mass +looked like sago. The heavy flakes of snow make a noise against the +tent that reminds one of the safety-valve of a large boiler blowing +off: Inside the tent it is difficult to hear oneself speak; when we +have anything to say to each other we have to shout.</p> + +<p>These days of involuntary idleness on a sledge journey may safely be +reckoned among the experiences it is difficult to go through without +a good deal of mental suffering. I say nothing of the purely physical +discomfort of having to pass the day in a sleeping-bag. That may be +endured; in any case, so long as the bag is fairly dry. It is a far +worse matter to reconcile oneself to the loss of the many solid hours +that might otherwise have been put to a useful purpose, and to the +irritating consciousness that every bit of food that is consumed is +so much wasted of the limited store. At this spot of all others we +should have been so glad to spend the time in exploring round about, +or still more in going farther. But if we are to go on, we must be +certain of having a chance of getting seals at a reasonable distance +from here. With our remaining supply of dogs' food we cannot go on +for more than three days.</p> + +<p>What we have left will be just enough for the return journey, even if +we should not find the depot of seals' flesh left on the way. There +remained the resource of killing dogs, if it was a question of getting +as far to the east as possible, but for many reasons I shrank from +availing myself of that expedient. We could form no idea of what would +happen to the southern party's animals. The probability was that they +would have none left on their return. Supposing their return were +delayed so long as to involve spending another winter on the Barrier, +the transport of supplies from the ship could hardly be carried out +in the necessary time with the ten untrained puppies that were left +with Lindström. We had picked out the useful ones, and I thought that, +should the necessity arise, they could be used with greater advantage +for this work than we should derive from slaughtering them here, and +thereby somewhat prolonging the distance covered; the more so as, to +judge from all appearance, there was a poor prospect of our finding +anything of interest within a reasonable time.</p> + +<p>Tuesday, December 5. -- It looks as if our patience is to be given +a really hard trial this time. Outside the same state of things +continues, and the barometer is going down. A mass of snow has fallen +in the last twenty-four hours. The drift on the windward side of the +tent is constantly growing; if it keeps on a little longer it will +be as high as the top of the tent. The sledges are completely snowed +under, and so are the dogs; we had to haul them out one by one in the +middle of the day. Most of them are now loose, as there is nothing +exposed to the attacks of their teeth. It is now blowing a regular +gale; the direction of the wind is about true east. Occasionally +squalls of hurricane-like violence occur. Fortunately the big +snow-drift keeps us comfortable, and we are under the lee of a hill, +otherwise it would look badly for our tent. Hitherto it has held well, +but it is beginning to be rather damp inside. The temperature remains +very high (+ 27.2º F. at noon to-day), and the mass of snow pressing +against the tent causes the formation of rime.</p> + +<p>In order to while away the time to some extent under depressing +circumstances like these, I put into my diary on leaving Framheim a +few loose leaves of a Russian grammar; Johansen solaced himself with +a serial cut out of the Aftenpost; as far as I remember, the title of +it was "The Red Rose and the White." Unfortunately the story of the +Two Roses was very soon finished; but Johansen had a good remedy for +that: he simply began it over again. My reading had the advantage of +being incomparably stiffer. Russian verbs are uncommonly difficult +of digestion, and not to be swallowed in a hurry. For lack of mental +nutriment, Stubberud with great resignation consoled himself with +a pipe, but his enjoyment must have been somewhat diminished by +the thought that his stock of tobacco was shrinking at an alarming +rate. Every time he filled his pipe, I could see him cast longing looks +in the direction of my pouch, which was still comparatively full. I +could not help promising a fraternal sharing in case he should run +short; and after that our friend puffed on with an easy mind.</p> + +<p>Although I look at it at least every half-hour, the barometer will +not go up. At 8 p.m. it was down to 27.30. If this means anything, +it can only be that we shall have the pleasure of being imprisoned +here another day. Some poor consolation is to be had in the thought of +how lucky we were to reach the tent at the last moment the day before +yesterday. A storm as lasting as this one would in all probability +have been too much for us if we had not got in.</p> + +<p>Wednesday, December 6. -- the third day of idleness has at last crept +away after its predecessors. We have done with it. It has not brought +any marked variation. The weather has been just as violent, until +now -- 8 p.m. -- the wind shows a slight tendency to moderate. It +is, surely, time it did; three days and nights should be enough for +it. The heavy snowfall continues. Big, wet flakes come dancing down +through the opening in the drift in which the peak of the tent still +manages to show itself. In the course of three days we have had more +snowfall here than we had at Framheim in ten whole months. It will +be interesting to compare our meteorological log with Lindström's; +probably he has had his share of the storm, and in that case it will +have given him some exercise in snow-shovelling.</p> + +<p>The moisture is beginning to be rather troublesome now; most of our +wardrobe is wet through, and the sleeping-bags will soon meet with +the same fate. The snow-drift outside is now so high that it shuts +out most of the daylight; we are in twilight. To-morrow we shall be +obliged to dig out the tent, whatever the weather is like, otherwise +we shall be buried entirely, and run the additional risk of having +the tent split by the weight of snow. I am afraid it will be a day's +work to dig out the tent and the two sledges; we have only one little +shovel to do it with.</p> + +<p>A slight rise of both barometer and thermometer tells us that at last +we are on the eve of the change we have been longing for. Stubberud is +certain of fair weather to-morrow, he says. I am by no means so sure, +and offer to bet pretty heavily that there will be no change. Two +inches of Norwegian plug tobacco is the stake, and with a heartfelt +desire that Jörgen may win I await the morrow.</p> + +<p>Thursday, December 7. -- Early this morning I owned to having lost my +bet, as the weather, so far as I could tell, was no longer of the same +tempestuous character; but Stubberud thought the contrary. "It seems +to me just as bad," said he. He was right enough, as a matter of fact, +but this did not prevent my persuading him to accept payment. Meanwhile +we were obliged to make an attempt to dig out the tent, regardless +of the weather; the situation was no longer endurable. We waited all +the forenoon in the hope of an improvement; but as none came, we set +to work at twelve o'clock. Our implements showed some originality and +diversity: a little spade, a biscuit-tin, and a cooker. The drift did +its best to undo our work as fast as we dug, but we managed to hold +our own against it. Digging out the tent-pegs gave most trouble. After +six hours' hard work we got the tent set up a few yards to windward of +its first position; the place where it had stood was now a well about +seven feet deep. Unfortunately there was no chance of immortalizing +this scene of excavation. It would have been amusing enough to have it +on the plate; but drifting snow is a serious obstacle to an amateur +photographer -- besides which, my camera was on Stubberud's sledge, +buried at least four feet down.</p> + +<p>In the course of our digging we had had the misfortune to make two or +three serious rents in the thin canvas of the tent, and the drift was +not long in finding a way through these when the tent was up again. To +conclude my day's work I had, therefore, a longish tailor's job, +while the other two men were digging out a good feed for the dogs, +who had been on half-rations for the last two days. That night we went +rather short of sleep. Vulcan, the oldest dog in Johansen's team, +was chiefly to blame for this. In his old age Vulcan was afflicted +with a bad digestion, for even Eskimo dogs may be liable to this +infirmity, hardy as they generally are. The protracted blizzard had +given the old fellow a relapse, and he proclaimed this distressing +fact by incessant howling. This kind of music was not calculated to +lull us to sleep, and it was three or four in the morning before we +could snatch a nap. During a pause I was just dropping off, when the +sun showed faintly through the tent. This unwonted sight at once +banished all further thoughts of sleep; the Primus was lighted, +a cup of chocolate swallowed, and out we went. Stubberud and +Johansen set to work at the hard task of digging out the sledges; +they had to go down four feet to get hold of them. I dragged our +wet clothes, sleeping-bags, and so forth out of the tent, and hung +them all up to dry. In the course of the morning observations were +taken for determining the geographical longitude and latitude, as +well as a few photographs, which will give some idea of what our +camp looked like after the blizzard. Having made good the damage +and put everything fairly in order, we hurried away to our peaks, +to secure some photographs while the light was favourable. This time +we were able to achieve our object. "Scott's Nunataks," as they were +afterwards named -- after Captain Scott, who first saw them -- were +now for the first time recorded by the camera. Before we left the +summit the Norwegian flag was planted there, a snow beacon erected, +and a report of our visit deposited in it. The weather would not +keep clear; before we were back at the camp there was a thick fog, +and once more we had to thank the tracks of our ski for showing us the +way. During the time we had been involuntarily detained at this spot, +our store of provisions had decreased alarmingly; there was only a bare +week's supply left, and in less than a week we should hardly be able +to make home; probably it would take more than a week, but in that +case we had the depot at our Bay of Seals to fall back upon. In the +immediate neighbourhood of our present position we could not reckon +on being able to replenish our supply in the continued unfavourable +state of the weather. We therefore made up our minds on the morning of +December 9 to break off the journey and turn our faces homeward. For +three days more we had to struggle with high wind and thick snow, +but as things now were, we had no choice but to keep going, and by +the evening of the 11th we had dragged ourselves fifty geographical +miles to the west. The weather cleared during the night, and at last, +on December 12, we had a day of real sunshine. All our discomforts +were forgotten; everything went easily again. In the course of nine +hours we covered twenty-six geographical miles that day, without any +great strain on either dogs or men.</p> + +<p>At our midday rest we found ourselves abreast of the bay, where, on +the outward journey, we had laid down our depot of seals' flesh. I +had intended to turn aside to the depot and replenish our supply of +meat as a precaution, but Johansen suggested leaving out this detour +and going straight on. We might thereby run the risk of having to +go on short rations; but Johansen thought it a greater risk to cross +the treacherous ground about the bay, and, after some deliberation, +I saw he was right. It was better to go on while we were about it.</p> + +<p>From this time on we met with no difficulty, and rapidly drew near +to our destination in regular daily marches of twenty geographical +miles. After men and dogs had received their daily ration on the +evening of the 15th, our sledge cases were practically empty; but, +according to our last position, we should not have more than twenty +geographical miles more to Framheim.</p> + +<p>Saturday, December 16. -- We broke camp at the usual time, in overcast +but perfectly clear weather, and began what was to be our last day's +march on this trip. A dark water-sky hung over the Barrier on the +west and north-west, showing that there was open sea off the mouth of +the Bay of Whales. We went on till 10.30, our course being true west, +when we made out far to the north-west an ice-cape that was taken to +be the extreme point on the western side of the bay. Immediately after +we were on the edge of the Barrier, the direction of which was here +south-west and north-east. We altered our course and followed the edge +at a proper distance until we saw a familiar iceberg that had broken +off to the north of Framheim, but had been stopped by the sea-ice from +drifting out. With this excellent mark in view the rest of the way +was plain sailing. The sledge-meter showed 19.5 geographical miles, +when in the afternoon we came in sight of our winter home. Quiet and +peaceful it lay there, if possible more deeply covered in snow than +when we had left it. At first we could see no sign of life, but soon +the glasses discovered a lonely wanderer on his way from the house +to the "meteorological institute." So Lindström was still alive and +performing his duties.</p> + +<p>When we left, our friend had expressed his satisfaction at "getting +us out of the way"; but I have a suspicion that he was quite as +pleased to see us back again. I am not quite certain, though, that +he did see us for the moment, as he was about as snow-blind as a +man can be. Lindström was the last person we should have suspected +of that malady. On our asking him how it came about, he seemed at +first unwilling to give any explanation; but by degrees it came out +that the misfortune had happened a couple of days before, when he +had gone out after seals. His team, composed of nothing but puppies, +had run away and pulled up at a big hummock out by the western cape, +ten miles from the station. But Lindström, who is a determined man, +would not give up before he had caught the runaways; and this was +too much for his eyes, as he had no goggles with him. "When I got +home I couldn't see what the time was," he said; "but it must have +been somewhere about six in the morning." When we had made him put +on plenty of red eye-ointment and supplied him with a proper pair of +goggles, he was soon cured.</p> + +<p>Framheim had had the same protracted storms with heavy snowfall. On +several mornings the master of the house had had to dig his way out +through the snow-wall outside the door; but during the last three +fine days he had managed to clear a passage, not only to the door, +but to the window as well. Daylight came down into the room through +a well nine feet deep. This had been a tremendous piece of work; +but, as already hinted, nothing can stop Lindström when he makes up +his mind. His stock of seals' flesh was down to a minimum; the little +there was vanished on the appearance of our ravenous dogs. We ourselves +were in no such straits; sweets were the only things in special demand.</p> + +<p>We stayed at home one day. After bringing up two loads of seals' +flesh, filling our empty provision cases, carrying out a number of +small repairs, and checking our watches, we were again on the road +on Monday the 18th. We were not very loth to leave the house; indoor +existence had become rather uncomfortable on account of constant +dripping from the ceiling. In the course of the winter a quantity +of ice had formed in the loft. As the kitchen fire was always going +after our return, the temperature became high enough to melt the ice, +and the water streamed down. Lindström was annoyed and undertook +to put a stop to it. He disappeared into the loft, and sent down a +hail of ice, bottle-straw, broken cases, and other treasures through +the trap-door. We fled before the storm and drove away. This time +we had to carry out our instructions as to the exploration of the +long eastern arm of the Bay of Whales. During the autumn several +Sunday excursions had been made along this remarkable formation; +but although some of these ski-runs had extended as far as twelve +miles in one direction, there was no sign of the hummocks coming to +an end. These great disturbances of the ice-mass must have a cause, +and the only conceivable one was that the subjacent land had brought +about this disruption of the surface. For immediately to the south +there was undoubtedly land, as there the surface rose somewhat rapidly +to a height of 1,000 feet; but it was covered with snow. There was +a possibility that the rock might project among the evidences of +heavy pressure at the foot of this slope; and with this possibility +in view we made a five days' trip, following the great fissure, or +"bay," as we generally called it, right up to its head, twenty-three +geographical miles to the east of our winter-quarters.</p> + +<p>Although we came across no bare rock, and in that respect the journey +was a disappointment, it was nevertheless very interesting to observe +the effects of the mighty forces that had here been at work, the +disruption of the solid ice-sheath by the still more solid rock.</p> + +<p>The day before Christmas Eve we were back at Framheim. Lindström had +made good use of his time in our absence. The ice had disappeared +from the loft, and therewith the rain from the ceiling. New linoleum +had been laid down over half the floor, and marks of the paint-brush +were visible on the ceiling. These efforts had possibly been made +with an eye to the approaching festival, but in other respects we +abstained from any attempt at keeping Christmas. It did not agree +with the time of year; constant blazing sunshine all through the +twenty-four hours could not be reconciled with a northerner's idea of +Christmas. And for that reason we had kept the festival six months +before. Christmas Eve fell on a Sunday, and it passed just like any +ordinary Sunday. Perhaps the only difference was that we used a razor +that day instead of the usual beard-clipper. On Christmas Day we took +a holiday, and Lindström prepared a banquet of skua gulls. Despise +this dish as one may, it tasted undeniably of -- bird.</p> + +<p>The numerous snow-houses were now in a sad way. Under the weight +of the constantly increasing mass, the roofs of most of the rooms +were pressed so far in that there was just enough space to crawl +on hands and knees. In the Crystal Palace and the Clothing Store +we kept all our skin clothing, besides a good deal of outfit, which +it was intended to take on board the Fram when she and the southern +party arrived. If the sinking continued, it would be a long business +digging these things out again, and in order to have everything ready +we made up our minds to devote a few days to this work at once. We +hauled the snow up from these two rooms through a well twelve feet +deep by means of tackles. It was a long job, but when we had finished +this part of the labyrinth was as good as ever. We had no time to +deal with the vapour-bath or the carpenter's shop just then. There +still remained the survey of the south-western corner of the Bay +of Whales and its surroundings. On an eight days' sledge journey, +starting at the New Year, we ranged about this district, where we +were surprised to find the solid Barrier divided into small islands, +separated by comparatively broad sounds. These isolated masses of ice +could not possibly be afloat, although the depth in one or two places, +where we had a chance of making soundings, proved to be as much as +200 fathoms. The only rational explanation we could think of was +that there must be a group of low-lying islands here, or in any case +shoals. These "ice islands," if one may call them so, had a height +of 90 feet and sloped evenly down to the water on the greater part +of their circumference. One of the sounds, that penetrated into the +Barrier a short distance inside the western cape of the bay, continued +southward and gradually narrowed to a mere fissure. We followed this +until it lost itself, thirty geographical miles within the Barrier.</p> + +<p>The last day of this trip -- Thursday, January 11 -- will always be +fixed in our memory; it was destined to bring us experiences of the +kind that are never forgotten. Our start in the morning was made at +exactly the same time and in exactly the same way as so many times +before. We felt pretty certain of reaching Framheim in the course of +the day, but that prospect was for the moment of minor importance. In +the existing state of the weather our tent offered us as comfortable +quarters as our snowed-up winter home. What made us look forward to +our return with some excitement was the possibility of seeing the +Fram again, and this thought was no doubt in the minds of all of us +that January morning, though we did not say much about it.</p> + +<p>After two hours' march we caught sight of West Cape, at the entrance +to the bay, in our line of route, and a little later we saw a black +strip of sea far out on the horizon. As usual, a number of bergs +of all sizes were floating on this strip, in every variety of shade +from white to dark grey, as the light fell on them. One particular +lump appeared to us so dark that it could hardly be made of ice; +but we had been taken in too many times to make any remark about it.</p> + +<p>As the dogs now had a mark to go by, Johansen was driving in front +without my help; I went by the side of Stubberud's sledge. The man at +my side kept staring out to sea, without uttering a word. On my asking +him what in the world he was looking at, he replied "I could almost +swear it was a ship, but of course it's only a wretched iceberg." We +were just agreed upon this, when suddenly Johansen stopped short and +began a hurried search for his long glass. "Are you going to look at +the Fram?" I asked ironically. "Yes, I am," he said; and while he +turned the telescope upon the doubtful object far out in Ross Sea, +we two stood waiting for a few endless seconds. "It's the Fram sure +enough, as large as life!" was the welcome announcement that broke our +suspense. I glanced at Stubberud and saw his face expanding into its +most amiable smile. Though I had not much doubt of the correctness +of Johansen's statement, I borrowed his glass, and a fraction of a +second was enough to convince me. That ship was easily recognized; +she was our own old Fram safely back again.</p> + +<p>We had still fourteen long miles to Framheim and an obstinate +wind right in our faces, but that part of the way was covered in a +remarkably short time. On arriving at home at two in the afternoon +we had some expectation of finding a crowd of people in front of the +house; but there was not a living soul to be seen. Even Lindström +remained concealed, though as a rule he was always about when anyone +arrived. Thinking that perhaps our friend had had a relapse of +snow-blindness, I went in to announce our return. Lindström was +standing before his range in the best of health when I entered +the kitchen. "The Fram's come!" he shouted, before I had shut the +door. "Tell me something I don't know," said I, "and be so kind as to +give me a cup of water with a little syrup in it if you can." I thought +somehow that the cook had a sly grin on his face when he brought +what I asked for, but with the thirst I had after the stiff march, +I gave a great part of my attention to the drink. I had consumed +the best part of a quart, when Lindström went off to his bunk and +asked if I could guess what he had hidden there. There was no time to +guess anything before the blankets were thrown on to the floor, and +after them bounded a bearded ruffian clad in a jersey and a pair of +overalls of indeterminable age and colour. "Hullo!" said the ruffian, +and the voice was that of Lieutenant Gjertsen. Lindström was shaking +with laughter while I stood open-mouthed before this apparition; +I had been given a good surprise. We agreed to treat Johansen and +Stubberud in the same way, and as soon as they were heard outside, +Gjertsen hid himself again among the blankets. But Stubberud had smelt +a rat in some way or other. "There are more than two in this room," +he said, as soon as he came in. It was no surprise to him to find a +man from the Fram in Lindström's bunk.</p> + +<p>When we heard that the visitor had been under our roof for a whole day, +we assumed that in the course of that time he had heard all about our +own concerns from Lindström. We were therefore not inclined to talk +about ourselves; we wanted news from without, and Gjertsen was more +than ready to give us them. The Fram had arrived two days before, +all well. After lying at the ice edge for a day and a night, keeping +a constant lookout for the "natives," Gjertsen had grown so curious +to know how things were at Framheim that he had asked Captain Nilsen +for "shore leave." The careful skipper had hesitated a while before +giving permission; it was a long way up to the house, and the sea-ice +was scored with lanes, some of them fairly wide. Finally Gjertsen had +his way, and he left the ship, taking a signal flag with him. He found +it rather difficult to recognize his surroundings, to begin with; one +ice cape was very like another, and ugly ideas of calvings suggested +themselves, until at last he caught sight of Cape Man's Head, and then +he knew that the foundations of Framheim had not given way. Cheered by +this knowledge, he made his way towards Mount Nelson, but on arriving +at the top of this ridge, from which there was a view over Framheim, +the eager explorer felt his heart sink. Where our new house had +made such a brave show a year before on the surface of the Barrier, +there was now no house at all to be seen. All that met the eyes of the +visitor was a sombre pile of ruins. But his anxiety quickly vanished +when a man emerged from the confusion. The man was Lindström, and the +supposed ruin was the most ingenious of all winter-quarters. Lindström +was ignorant of the Fram's arrival, and the face he showed on seeing +Gjertsen must have been worth some money to look at.</p> + +<p>When our first curiosity was satisfied, our thoughts turned to our +comrades on board the Fram. We snatched some food, and then went +down to the sea-ice, making our way across the little bay due north +of the house. Our well-trained team were not long in getting there, +but we had some trouble with them in crossing the cracks in the ice, +as some of the dogs, especially the puppies, had a terror of water.</p> + +<p>The Fram was cruising some way out, but when we came near enough for +them to see us, they made all haste to come in to the ice-foot. Yes, +there lay our good little ship, as trim as when we had last seen +her; the long voyage round the world had left no mark on her strong +hull. Along the bulwarks appeared a row of smiling faces, which we were +able to recognize in spite of the big beards that half concealed many +of them. While clean-shaven chins had been the fashion at Framheim, +almost every man on board appeared with a flowing beard. As we came +over the gangway questions began to hail upon us. I had to ask for a +moment's grace to give the captain and crew a hearty shake of the hand, +and then I collected them all about me and gave a short account of the +most important events of the past year. When this was done, Captain +Nilsen pulled me into the chart-house, where we had a talk that lasted +till about four the next morning -- to both of us certainly one of +the most interesting we have ever had. On Nilsen's asking about the +prospects of the southern party, I ventured to assure him that in +all probability we should have our Chief and his companions back in +a few days with the Pole in their pockets.</p> + +<p>Our letters from home brought nothing but good news. What interested +us most in the newspapers was, of course, the account of how the +expedition's change of route had been received.</p> + +<p>At 8 a.m. we left the Fram and returned home. For the next few +days we were occupied with the work of surveying and charting, +which went comparatively quickly in the favourable weather. When we +returned after our day's work on the afternoon of the 17th, we found +Lieutenant Gjertsen back at the hut. He asked us if we could guess the +news, and as we had no answer ready, he told us that the ship of the +Japanese expedition had arrived. We hurriedly got out the cinematograph +apparatus and the camera, and went off as fast as the dogs could go, +since Gjertsen thought this visit would not be of long duration.</p> + +<p>When we caught sight of the Fram she had her flag up, and just beyond +the nearest cape lay the Kainan Maru, with the ensign of the Rising +Sun at the peak. Banzai! We had come in time. Although it was rather +late in the evening, Nilsen and I decided to pay her a visit, and if +possible to see the leader of the expedition. We were received at +the gangway by a young, smiling fellow, who beamed still more when +I produced the only Japanese word I knew: Oheio -- Good-day. There +the conversation came to a full stop, but soon a number of the +inquisitive sons of Nippon came up, and some of them understood a +little English. We did not get very far, however. We found out that +the Kainan Maru had been on a cruise in the direction of King Edward +VII. Land; but we could not ascertain whether any landing had been +attempted or not.</p> + +<p>As the leader of the expedition and the captain of the ship had +turned in, we did not want to disturb them by prolonging our visit; +but we did not escape before the genial first officer had offered us +a glass of wine and a cigar in the chart-house. With an invitation +to come again next day, and permission to take some photographs, we +returned to the Fram; but nothing came of the projected second visit +to our Japanese friends. Both ships put out to sea in a gale that +sprang up during the night, and before we had another opportunity of +going on board the Kainan Maru the southern party had returned.</p> + +<p>The days immediately preceding the departure of the expedition for +the north fell about the middle of the short Antarctic summer, just +at the time when the comparatively rich animal life of the Bay of +Whales shows itself at its best.</p> + +<p>The name of the Bay of Whales is due to Shackleton, and is appropriate +enough; for from the time of the break-up of the sea-ice this huge +inlet in the Barrier forms a favourite playground for whales, of which +we often saw schools of as many as fifty disporting themselves for +hours together. We had no means of disturbing their peaceful sport, +although the sight of all these monsters, each worth a small fortune, +was well calculated to make our fingers itch. It was the whaling +demon that possessed us.</p> + +<p>For one who has no special knowledge of the industry it is difficult +to form an adequate opinion as to whether this part of Antarctica is +capable of ever becoming a field for whaling enterprise. In any case, +it will probably be a long time before such a thing happens. In the +first place, the distance to the nearest inhabited country is very +great -- over 2,000 geographical miles -- and in the second, there is a +serious obstruction on this route in the shape of the belt of pack-ice, +which, narrow and loose as it may be at times, will always necessitate +the employment of timber-built vessels for the work of transport.</p> + +<p>The conditions prevailing in the Bay of Whales must presumably offer +a decisive obstacle to the establishment of a permanent station. Our +winter house was snowed under in the course of two months, and to us +this was only a source of satisfaction, as our quarters became all +the warmer on this account; but whether a whaling station would find +a similar fate equally convenient is rather doubtful.</p> + +<p>Lastly, it must be said that, although in the bay itself huge +schools of whales were of frequent occurrence, we did not receive +the impression that there was any very great number of them out in +Ross Sea. The species most commonly seen was the Finner; after that +the Blue Whale.</p> + +<p>As regards seals, they appeared in great quantities along the edge +of the Barrier so long as the sea-ice still lay there; after the +break-up of the ice the Bay of Whales was a favourite resort of +theirs all through the summer. This was due to its offering them an +easy access to the dry surface, where they could abandon themselves +to their favourite occupation of basking in the sunshine.</p> + +<p>During our whole stay we must have killed some two hundred and fifty +of them, by far the greater number of which were shot in the autumn +immediately after our arrival. This little inroad had no appreciable +effect. The numerous survivors, who had been eye-witnesses of their +companions' sudden death, did not seem to have the slightest idea +that the Bay of Whales had become for the time being a somewhat unsafe +place of residence.</p> + +<p>As early as September, while the ice still stretched under in the +course of two months, and to us this was only a source of satisfaction, +as our quarters became all the warmer on this account; but whether +a whaling station would find a similar fate equally convenient is +rather doubtful.</p> + +<p>Lastly, it must be said that, although in the bay itself huge +schools of whales were of frequent occurrence, we did not receive +the impression that there was any very great number of them out in +Ross Sea. The species most commonly seen was the Finner; after that +the Blue Whale.</p> + +<p>As regards seals, they appeared in great quantities along the edge +of the Barrier so long as the sea-ice still lay there; after the +break-up of the ice the Bay of Whales was a favourite resort of +theirs all through the summer. This was due to its offering them an +easy access to the dry surface, where they could abandon themselves +to their favourite occupation of basking in the sunshine.</p> + +<p>During our whole stay we must have killed some two hundred and fifty +of them, by far the greater number of which were shot in the autumn +immediately after our arrival. This little inroad had no appreciable +effect. The numerous survivors, who had been eye-witnesses of their +companions' sudden death, did not seem to have the slightest idea +that the Bay of Whales had become for the time being a somewhat unsafe +place of residence.</p> + +<p>As early as September, while the ice still stretched The name +crab-eater may possibly evoke ideas of some ferocious creature; in +that case it is misleading. The animal that bears it is, without +question, the most amicable of the three species. It is of about +the same size as our native seal, brisk and active in its movements, +and is constantly exercising itself in high jumps from the water on +to the ice-foot. Even on the ice it can work its way along so fast +that it is all a man can do to keep up. Its skin is extraordinarily +beautiful -- grey, with a sheen of silver and small dark spots.</p> + +<p>One is often asked whether seal's flesh does not taste of train +oil. It seems to be a common assumption that it does so. This, +however, is a mistake; the oil and the taste of it are only present +in the layer of blubber, an inch thick, which covers the seal's body +like a protective armour. The flesh itself contains no fat; on the +other hand, it is extremely rich in blood and its taste in consequence +reminds one of black-puddings. The flesh of the Weddell seal is very +dark in colour; in the frying-pan it turns quite black. The flesh +of the crab-eater is of about the same colour as beef, and to us, +at any rate, its taste was equally good. We therefore always tried +to get crab-eater when providing food for ourselves.</p> + +<p>We found the penguins as amusing as the seals were useful. So much has +been written recently about these remarkable creatures, and they have +been photographed and cinematographed so many times, that everyone +is acquainted with them. Nevertheless, anyone who sees a living +penguin for the first time will always be attracted and interested, +both by the dignified Emperor penguin, with his three feet of stature, +and by the bustling little Adelie.</p> + +<p>Not only in their upright walk, but also in their manners and antics, +these birds remind one strikingly of human beings. It has been +remarked that an Emperor is the very image of "an old gentleman in +evening dress," and the resemblance is indeed very noticeable. It +becomes still more so when the Emperor -- as is always his habit -- +approaches the stranger with a series of ceremonious bows; such is +their good breeding!</p> + +<p>When this ceremony is over, the penguin will usually come quite close; +he is entirely unsuspecting and is not frightened even if one goes +slowly towards him. On the other hand, if one approaches rapidly or +touches him, he is afraid and immediately takes to flight. It sometimes +happens, though, that he shows fight, and then it is wiser to keep out +of range of his flippers; for in these he has a very powerful weapon, +which might easily break a man's arm. If you wish to attack him, it is +better to do so from behind; both flippers must be seized firmly at the +same time and bent backwards along his back; then the fight is over.</p> + +<p>The little Adelie is always comic. On meeting a flock of these +little busybodies the most ill-humoured observer is forced to burst +into laughter. During the first weeks of our stay in the Bay of +Whales, while we were still unloading stores, it was always a welcome +distraction to see a flock of Adélie penguins, to the number of a dozen +or so, suddenly jump out of the water, as though at a word of command, +and then sit still for some moments, stiff with astonishment at the +extraordinary things they saw. When they had recovered from the first +surprise, they generally dived into the sea again, but their intense +curiosity soon drove them back to look at us more closely.</p> + +<p>In contradistinction to their calm and self-controlled relative, +the Emperor penguin, these active little creatures have an extremely +fiery temperament, which makes them fly into a passion at the slightest +interference with their affairs; and this, of course, only makes them +still more amusing.</p> + +<p>The penguins are birds of passage; they spend the winter on the various +small groups of islands that are scattered about the southern ocean. On +the arrival of spring they betake themselves to Antarctica, where they +have their regular rookeries in places where there is bare ground. They +have a pronounced taste for roaming, and as soon as the chicks are +grown they set out, young and old together, on their travels. It was +only as tourists that the penguins visited Framheim and its environs; +for there was, of course, no bare land in our neighbourhood that +might offer them a place of residence. For this reason we really saw +comparatively little of them; an Emperor was a very rare visitor; +but the few occasions on which we met these peculiar "bird people" +of Antarctica will remain among the most delightful memories of our +stay in the Bay of Whales.</p> + +<h2> +CHAPTER XVI: <a name="xvi"></a> +The Voyage of the "Fram"</h2> + +<p>By First-Lieutenant Thorvald Nilsen</p> + +<p>From Norway to the Barrier.</p> + +<p>After the Fram had undergone extensive repairs in Horten Dockyard, +and had loaded provisions and equipment in Christiania, we left the +latter port on June 7, 1910. According to the plan we were first +to make an oceanographical cruise of about two months in the North +Atlantic, and then to return to Norway, where the Fram was to be +docked and the remaining outfit and dogs taken on board.</p> + +<p>This oceanographical cruise was in many respects successful. In the +first place, we gained familiarity with the vessel, and got everything +shipshape for the long voyage to come; but the best of all was, that +we acquired valuable experience of our auxiliary engine. This is a +180 h.p. Diesel motor, constructed for solar oil, of which we were +taking about 90,000 litres (about 19,800 gallons). In this connection +it may be mentioned that we consumed about 500 litres (about 110 +gallons) a day, and that the Fram's radius of action was thus about +six months. For the first day or two the engine went well enough, +but after that it went slower and slower, and finally stopped of its +own accord. After this it was known as the "Whooping Cough." This +happened several times in the course of the trip; the piston-rods had +constantly to be taken out and cleared of a thick black deposit. As +possibly our whole South Polar Expedition would depend on the motor +doing its work properly, the result of this was that the projected +cruise was cut short, and after a lapse of three weeks our course +was set for Bergen, where we changed the oil for refined paraffin, +and at the same time had the motor thoroughly overhauled.</p> + +<p>Since then there has never been anything wrong with the engine.</p> + +<p>From Bergen we went to Christiansand, where the Fram was docked, and, +as already mentioned, the remaining outfit, with the dogs and dog-food, +was taken on board.</p> + +<p>The number of living creatures on board when we left Norway was +nineteen men, ninety-seven dogs, four pigs, six carrier pigeons, +and one canary.</p> + +<p>At last we were ready to leave Christiansand on Thursday, August 9, +1910, and at nine o'clock that evening the anchor was got up and the +motor started. After the busy time we had had, no doubt we were all +glad to get off. As our departure had not been made public, only the +pilot and a few acquaintances accompanied us a little way out. It +was glorious weather, and everyone stayed on deck till far into the +light night, watching the land slowly disappear. All the ninety-seven +dogs were chained round the deck, on which we also had coal, oil, +timber and other things, so that there was not much room to move about.</p> + +<p>The rest of the vessel was absolutely full. To take an example, +in the fore-saloon we had placed forty-three sledging cases, which +were filled with books, Christmas presents, underclothing, and the +like. In addition to these, one hundred complete sets of dog-harness, +all our ski, ski-poles, snow-shoes, etc. Smaller articles were stowed +in the cabins, and every man had something. When I complained, as +happened pretty often, that I could not imagine where this or that +was to be put, the Chief of the expedition used generally to say: +"Oh, that's all right; you can just put it in your cabin!"</p> + +<p>Thus it was with every imaginable thing -- from barrels of paraffin +and new-born pups to writing materials and charts.</p> + +<p>As the story of this voyage has already been told, it may be rapidly +passed over here. After much delay through headwinds in the Channel, +we picked up the north-east trade in about the latitude of Gibraltar, +and arrived at Madeira on September 6.</p> + +<p>At 9 p.m. on September 9 we weighed anchor for the last time, and left +Madeira. As soon as we were clear of the land we got the north-east +trade again, and it held more or less fresh till about lat. 11º N.</p> + +<p>After our departure from Madeira I took over the morning watch, +from 4 to 8 a.m.; Prestrud and Gjertsen divided the remainder of the +twenty-four hours.</p> + +<p>In order if possible to get a little more way on the ship, a +studding-sail and a skysail were rigged up with two awnings; it did +not increase our speed very much, but no doubt it helped a little.</p> + +<p>The highest temperature we observed was 84º F. In the trade winds we +constantly saw flying-fish, but as far as I know not one was ever +found on deck; those that came on board were of course instantly +snapped up by the dogs.</p> + +<p>In about lat. 11º N. we lost the north-east trade, and thus came into +the "belt of calms," a belt that extends on each side of the Equator, +between the north-east and south-east trades. Here, as a rule, one +encounters violent rain-squalls; to sailing ships in general and +ourselves in particular this heavy rain is welcome, as water-tanks +can be filled up. Only on one day were we lucky enough to have rain, +but as it was accompanied by a strong squall of wind, we did not catch +all the water we wanted. All hands were on deck carrying water, some in +oilskins, some in Adam's costume; the Chief in a white tropical suit, +and, as far as I remember, clogs. As the latter were rather slippery, +and the Fram suddenly gave an unexpected lurch, he was carried off his +legs, and left sitting on the deck, while his bucket of water poured +all over him. But "it was all in his country's cause," so he did not +mind. We caught about 3 tons of water, and then had our tanks full, +or about 30 tons, when the shower passed off; later in the voyage we +filled a bucket now and again, but it never amounted to much, and if +we had not been as careful as we were, our water-supply would hardly +have lasted out.</p> + +<p>On October 4 we crossed the Equator. The south-east trade was not +so fresh as we had expected, and the engine had to be kept going the +whole time.</p> + +<p>At the beginning of November we came down into the west wind belt, +or the "Roaring Forties," as they are called, and from that time we +ran down our easting at a great rate. We were very lucky there, and had +strong fair winds for nearly seven weeks at a stretch. In the heavy sea +we found out what it was to sail in the Fram; she rolls incessantly, +and there is never a moment's rest. The dogs were thrown backwards +and forwards over the deck, and when one of them rolled into another, +it was taken as a personal insult, and a fight followed at once. But +for all that the Fram is a first-rate sea boat, and hardly ever ships +any water. If this had been otherwise, the dogs would have been far +worse off than they were.</p> + +<p>The weather in the "Foggy Fifties " varied between gales, calms, +fogs, snowstorms, and other delights. As a rule, the engine was now +kept constantly ready, in case of our being so unlucky as to come +too near an iceberg. Fortunately, however, we did not meet any of +these until early on the morning of January 1, 1911, when we saw +some typical Antarctic bergs; that is to say, entirely tabular. Our +latitude was then a little over 60º S., and we were not far off the +pack. On the 1st and 2nd we sailed southward without seeing anything +but scattered bergs and a constantly increasing number of lumps of +ice, which showed us we were getting near. By 10 p.m. on the 2nd we +came into slack drift-ice; the weather was foggy, and we therefore +kept going as near as might be on the course to the Bay of Whales, +which was destined to be our base.</p> + +<p>A good many seals were lying on the ice-floes, and as we went forward +we shot some. As soon as the first seal was brought on board, all +our dogs had their first meat meal since Madeira; they were given as +much as they wanted, and ate as much as they could. We, too, had our +share of the seal, and from this time forward we had fresh seal-steak +for breakfast at least every day; it tasted excellent to us, who for +nearly half a year had been living on nothing but tinned meat. With +the steak whortleberries were always served, which of course helped +to make it appreciated. The biggest seal we got in the pack-ice was +about 12 feet long, and weighed nearly half a ton. A few penguins were +also shot, mostly Adélie penguins; these are extraordinarily amusing, +and as inquisitive as an animal can be. When any of them saw us, they +at once came nearer to get a better view of the unbidden guests. If +they became too impertinent, we did not hesitate to take them, for +their flesh, especially the liver, was excellent. The albatrosses, +which had followed us through the whole of the west wind belt, had +now departed, and in their place came the beautiful snowy petrels +and Antarctic petrels.</p> + +<p>We had more or less fog all through the pack-ice. Only on the night +of the 5th did we have sun and fine weather, when we saw the midnight +sun for the first time. A more beautiful morning it would be difficult +to imagine: radiantly clear, with thick ice everywhere, as far as the +eye could see; the lanes of water between the floes gleamed in the +sun, and the ice-crystals glittered like thousands of diamonds. It +was a pure delight to go on deck and drink in the fresh air; one felt +altogether a new man. I believe everyone on board found this passage +through the pack the most interesting part of the whole voyage, and, +of course, it all had the charm of novelty. Those who had not been +in the ice before, myself among them, and who were hunting for the +first time, ran about after seals and penguins, and amused themselves +like children.</p> + +<p>At 10 p.m. on the 6th we were already out of the ice after a passage +of exactly four days; we had been extremely lucky, and the Fram went +very easily through the ice.</p> + +<p>After coming out of the pack, our course was continued through the open +Ross Sea to the Bay of Whales, which from the previous description +was to be found in about long. 164º W. On the afternoon of the 11th +we had strong ice-blink ahead, by which is meant the luminous stripe +that is seen above a considerable accumulation of ice; the nearest +thing one can compare it to is the glare that is always seen over +a great city on approaching it at night. We knew at once that this +was the glare of the mighty Ross Barrier, named after Sir James Clark +Ross, who first saw it in 1841. The Barrier is a wall of ice, several +hundred miles long, and about 100 feet high, which forms the southern +boundary of Ross Sea. We were, of course, very intent upon seeing +what it looked like, but to me it did not appear so imposing as I had +imagined it. Possibly this was because I had become familiar with it, +in a way, from the many descriptions of it. From these descriptions we +had expected to find a comparatively narrow opening into Balloon Bight, +as shown in the photographs we had before us; but as we went along +the Barrier, on the 12th, we could find no opening. In long. 164º W., +on the other hand, there was a great break in the wall, forming a cape +(West Cape); from here to the other side of the Barrier was about eight +geographical miles, and southward, as far as we could see, lay loose +bay ice. We held on to the east outside this drift-ice and along the +eastern Barrier till past midnight, but as Balloon Bight was not to +be found, we returned to the above-mentioned break or cape, where we +lay during the whole forenoon of the 13th, as the ice was too thick to +allow us to make any progress. After midday, however, the ice loosened, +and began to drift out; at the same time we went in, and having gone +as far as possible, the Fram was moored to the fast ice-foot on the +western side of the great bay we had entered. It proved that Balloon +Bight and another bight had merged to form a great bay, exactly as +described by Sir Ernest Shackleton, and named by him the Bay of Whales.</p> + +<p>After mooring here, the Chief and one or two others went on a +reconnoitring tour; but it began to snow pretty thickly, and, as far +as I am aware, nothing was accomplished beyond seeing that the Barrier +at the southernmost end of the bay sloped evenly down to the sea-ice; +but between the latter and the slope there was open water, so that +they could not go any farther. We lay all night drifting in the ice, +which was constantly breaking up, and during this time several seals +and penguins were shot. Towards morning on the 14th it became quite +clear, and we had a splendid view of the surroundings. Right over on +the eastern side of the bay it looked as if there was more open water; +we therefore went along the fast ice-foot and moored off the eastern +Barrier at about three in the afternoon. The cape in the Barrier, +under which we lay, was given the name of "Man's Head," on account +of its resemblance to a human profile. All the time we were going +along the ice we were shooting seals, so that on arrival at our final +moorings we already had a good supply of meat.</p> + +<p>For my part I was rather unlucky on one of these hunts: Four seals +were lying on the ice-foot, and I jumped down with rifle and five +cartridges; to take any cartridges in reserve did not occur to me, as, +of course, I regarded myself as a mighty hunter, and thought that one +shot per seal was quite enough. The three first died without a groan; +but the fourth took the alarm, and made off as fast as it could. I +fired my fourth cartridge, but it did not hit as it ought to have +done, and the seal was in full flight, leaving a streak of blood +behind it. I was not anxious to let a wounded seal go, and as I had +only one cartridge left, and the seal had its tail turned towards me, +I wanted to come to close quarters to make sure of it. I therefore +ran as hard as I could, but the seal was quicker, and it determined +the range. After running half-way to the South Pole, I summoned +my remaining strength and fired the last shot. Whether the bullet +went above or below, I have no idea. All I know is, that on arriving +on board I was met by scornful smiles and had to stand a good deal +of chaff.</p> + +<p>As already mentioned, we left Norway on August 9, 1910, and arrived +at our final moorings on January 14, 1911, in the course of which +time we had only called at Madeira. The Barrier is 16,000 geographical +miles from Norway, a distance which we took five months to cover. From +Madeira we had had 127 days in open sea, and therewith the first part +of the voyage was brought to an end.</p> + +<p>Off the Barrier.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had moored, the Chief, Prestrud, Johansen and I went +up on to the Barrier on a tour of reconnaissance. The ascent from the +sea-ice to the Barrier was fine, a perfectly even slope. When no more +than a mile from the ship, we found a good site for the first dog-camp, +and another mile to the south it was decided that the house was to +stand, on the slope of a hill, where it would be least exposed to +the strong south-easterly gales which might be expected from previous +descriptions. Up on the Barrier all was absolutely still, and there +was not a sign of life; indeed, what should anything live on? This +delightful ski-run was extended a little farther to the south, and +after a couple of hours we returned on board. Here in the meantime +the slaughtering of seals had been going on, and there were plenty +to be had, as several hundreds of them lay about on the ice.</p> + +<p>After the rather long sea voyage, and the cramped quarters on board, +I must say it was a pleasure to have firm ground under one's feet +and to be able to move about a little. The dogs evidently thought +the same; when they came down on to the ice, they rolled in the snow +and ran about, wild with delight. During our whole stay a great part +of the time was spent in ski-runs and seal-hunts, and an agreeable +change it was.</p> + +<p>Sunday the 15th was spent in setting up tents at the first dog-camp and +at Framheim, as the winter station was named. A team of dogs was used, +and, as they were unused to being driven, it is not surprising that +some lay down, others fought, a few wanted to go on board, but hardly +any of them appreciated the seriousness of the situation or understood +that their good time had come to an end. On Monday all the dogs were +landed, and on the following day the supplies began to be put ashore.</p> + +<p>The landing of the cases was done in this way: the sea-party brought +up on deck as many cases as the drivers could take in one journey; +as the sledges came down to the vessel, the cases were sent down +on to the ice on skids, so that it all went very rapidly. We would +not put the cases out on the ice before the sledges came back, as, +in case the ice should break up, we should be obliged to heave them +all on board again, or we might even lose them. At night no one was +ever allowed to stay on the ice.</p> + +<p>Before we reached the ice, we had counted on having 50 per cent. of +idle days -- that is, from previous descriptions we had reckoned on +having such bad weather half the time that the Fram would be obliged +to leave her moorings. In this respect we were far luckier than we +expected, and only had to put out twice. The first time was on the +night of January 25, when we had a stiff breeze from the north with +some sea, so that the vessel was bumping rather hard against the +ice. Drifting floes came down upon us, and so as not to be caught +by any iceberg that might suddenly come sailing in from the point +of the Barrier we called Man's Head, we took our moorings on board +and went. When the shore party next morning came down as usual at +a swinging pace, they saw to their astonishment that the Fram was +gone. In the course of the day the weather became fine, and we tried +to go back about noon; but the bay was so full of drift-ice that we +could not come in to the fast ice-foot. About nine in the evening +we saw from the crow's nest that the ice was loosening; we made the +attempt, and by midnight we were again moored.</p> + +<p>But the day was not wasted by the shore party, for on the day before +Kristensen, L. Hansen and I had been out on ski and had shot forty +seals, which were taken up to the station while we were away.</p> + +<p>Only once or twice more did we have to leave our berth, until on +February 7, when almost all the ice had left the bay, we were able +to moor alongside the low, fast Barrier, where we lay in peace until +we went for good.</p> + +<p>There was a great deal of animal life about us. A number of whales +came close in to the vessel, where they stayed still to look at the +uninvited guests. On the ice seals came right up to the ship, as did +large and small flocks of penguins, to have a look at us. These latter +were altogether extraordinarily inquisitive creatures. Two Emperor +penguins often came to our last moorings to watch us laying out an +ice-anchor or hauling on a hawser, while they put their heads on one +side and jabbered, and they were given the names of "the Harbour-master +and his Missis."</p> + +<p>A great number of birds, skua gulls, snowy petrels and Antarctic +petrels, flew round the ship and gave us many a good "roast ptarmigan."</p> + +<p>On the morning of February 4, about 1 a.m., the watchman, Beck, came +and called me with the news that a vessel was coming in. I guessed +at once, of course, that it was the Terra Nova; but I must confess +that I did not feel inclined to turn out and look at her. We hoisted +the colours, however.</p> + +<p>As soon as she was moored, Beck told me, some of her party went ashore, +presumably to look for the house. They did not find it, though, and at +3 a.m. Beck came below again, and said that now they were coming on +board. So then I turned out and received them. They were Lieutenant +Campbell, the leader of Captain Scott's second shore party, and +Lieutenant Pennell, the commander of the Terra Nova. They naturally +asked a number of questions, and evidently had some difficulty in +believing that it was actually the Fram that was lying here. We had +at first been taken for a whaler. They offered to take our mail to +New Zealand; but we had no mail ready, and had to decline the offer +with thanks. Later in the day a number of the Terra Nova's officers +went to breakfast at Framheim, and the Chief, Prestrud and I lunched +with them. At about two in the afternoon the Terra Nova sailed again.</p> + +<p>On Friday, February 16, a number of the shore party started on the +first trip to lay down depots. We cleared up, filled our water-tanks +with snow, and made the ship ready for sea. We had finished this by +the evening of the 14th.</p> + +<p>From the Bay of Whales to Buenos Aires.</p> + +<p>The sea party consisted of the following ten men Thorvald Nilsen, +L. Hansen, H. Kristensen and J. Nödtvedt; H. F. Gjertsen, A. Beck, +M. Rönne, A. Kutschin and O. K. Sundbeck. The first four formed one +watch, from eight to two, and the last five the other, from two to +eight. Last, but not least, comes K. Olsen, cook.</p> + +<p>Having made ready for sea, we let go our moorings on the Ice Barrier at +9 a.m. on February 15, 1911. Hassel, Wisting, Bjaaland, and Stubberud +came down to see us off. As in the course of the last few days the +ice had broken up right to the end of the bay, we went as far south +as possible to take a sounding; the shallowest we got was 155 3/4 +fathoms (285 metres). The bay ended in a ridge of ice on the east, +which was continued in a northerly direction, so that at the spot +where we were stopped by the Barrier, we reached the most southerly +point that a vessel can attain, so long as the Barrier remains as +it is now. Highest latitude 78º 41' S. When the Terra Nova was here, +her latitude and ours was 78º 38' S.</p> + +<p>The last two days before our departure had been calm, and a thick, +dense sludge lay over the whole bay; so dense was it that the Fram +lost her way altogether, and we had to keep going ahead and astern +until we came out into a channel. Seals by the hundred were lying on +the floes, but as we had a quantity of seal's flesh, we left them in +peace for a change.</p> + +<p>Before the Chief began the laying out of depots, I received from him +the following orders:</p> + +<p> +"To First-lieutenant Thorvald Nilsen.</p> + +<p>With the departure of the Fram from the Ice Barrier, you will take +over the command on board. In accordance with the plan we have mutually +agreed upon</p> + +<p>"1. You will sail direct to Buenos Aires, where the necessary +repairs will be executed, provisions taken on board, and the crew +completed. When this has been done,</p> + +<p>"2. You will sail from Buenos Aires to carry out oceanographical +observations in the South Atlantic Ocean. It would be desirable if +you could investigate the conditions between South America and Africa +in two sections. These investigations must, however, be dependent on +the prevailing conditions, and on the time at your disposal. When +the time arrives you will return to Buenos Aires, where the final +preparations will be made for</p> + +<p>"3. Your departure for the Ice Barrier to take off the shore party. The +sooner you can make your way in to the Barrier in 1912, the better. I +mention no time, as everything depends on circumstances, and I leave +it to you to act according to your judgment.</p> + +<p>"In all else that concerns the interests of the Expedition, I leave +you entire freedom of action.</p> + +<p>"If on your return to the Barrier you should find that I am prevented +by illness or death from taking over the leadership of the Expedition, +I place this in your hands, and beg you most earnestly to endeavour +to carry out the original plan of the Expedition -- the exploration +of the North Polar basin.</p> + +<p>"With thanks for the time we have spent together, and in the hope +that when we meet again we shall have reached our respective goals,</p> + +<p>"I am,</p> + +<p>"Yours sincerely,</p> + +<p>"Roald Amundsen."</p> + +<p>When Sir James Ross was in these waters for the first time, in 1842, +he marked "Appearance of land" in long. 160º W., and lat. about 78º +S. Afterwards, in 1902, Captain Scott named this land "King Edward +VII. Land." One of the Terra Nova's objects was to explore this land; +but when we met the ship on February 4, they told us on board that +on account of the ice conditions they had not been able to land. As +no one had ever been ashore there, I thought it might be interesting +to go and see what it looked like. Consequently our course was laid +north-eastward along the Barrier. During the night a thick sea-fog +came on, and it was only now and then that we could see the Barrier +over our heads. All of a sudden we were close upon a lofty iceberg, +so that we had to put the helm hard over to go clear. The Fram steers +splendidly, however, when she is in proper trim, and turns as if on +a pivot; besides which, it was calm.</p> + +<p>As the day advanced, the weather cleared more and more, and by noon it +was perfectly clear. The sight that then met us was the lofty Barrier +to starboard, and elsewhere all round about some fifty icebergs, +great and small. The Barrier rose from about 100 feet at its edge to +something like 1,200 feet.</p> + +<p>We followed the Barrier for some distance, but in the neighbourhood of +Cape Colbeck we met the drift-ice, and as I had no wish to come between +this and the Barrier, we stood out in a north-westerly direction. There +is, besides, the disadvantage about a propeller like ours, that it is +apt to wear out the brasses, so that these have to be renewed from +time to time. It was imperative that this should be done before we +came into the pack-ice, and the sooner the better. When, therefore, +we had gone along the Barrier for about a day and a half without +seeing any bare land, we set our course north-west in open water, +and after we had come some way out we got a slant of easterly wind, +so that the sails could be set. We saw the snow-covered land and the +glare above it all night.</p> + +<p>The date had not yet been changed, but as this had to be done, it +was changed on February 15.[2]</p> + +<p>At noon on the 16th the propeller was lifted, and by the evening of the +17th the job was done -- a record in spite of the temperature. Capital +fellows to work, our engineers.</p> + +<p>On the night of the 15th we saw the midnight sun unfortunately for the +last time. The same night something dark was sighted on the port bow; +in that light it looked very like an islet. The sounding apparatus +was got ready, and we who were on watch of course saw ourselves in +our minds as great discoverers. I was already wondering what would +be the most appropriate name to give it, but, alas! the "discovery" +became clearer and the name -- well, it was a rather prosaic one: +"Dead Whale Islet"; for it turned out to be a huge inflated whale, +that was drifting, covered with birds.</p> + +<p>We went rather slowly north-westward under sail alone. On the morning +of the 17th we saw ice-blink on the starboard bow, and about noon we +were close to the pack itself; it was here quite thick, and raised +by pressure, so that an attempt to get through it was out of the +question. We were, therefore, obliged to follow the ice to the +west. Due aft we saw in the sky the same glare as above the great +Ice Barrier, which may possibly show that the Barrier turns towards +the north and north-west; besides which, the masses of pressure-ice +that collect here must go to show that it encounters an obstruction, +probably the Barrier. When we went out in 1912 the ice lay in exactly +the same place and in the same way.</p> + +<p>Our course was still to the west along the pack-ice, and it was +not till the 20th that we could turn her nose northward again. For a +change we now had a stiff breeze from the south-east, with thick snow, +so we got on very well. On the whole, the Fram goes much more easily +through the water now than on the way south. Her bottom has probably +been cleaned by the cold water and all the scraping against the ice; +besides which, we have no more than a third of the load with which +we left Norway.</p> + +<p>On the night of the 20th we had to light the binnacle-lamps again, +and now the days grew rapidly shorter. It may possibly be a good thing +to have dark nights on land, but at sea it ought always to be light, +especially in these waters, which are more or less unknown, and full +of drifting icebergs.</p> + +<p>At 4 p.m. on the 22nd we entered the drift-ice in lat. 70.5º S., +long. 177.5º E. The ice was much higher and uglier than when we were +going south, but as there was nothing but ice as far as we could +see both east and west, and it was fairly loose, we had to make the +attempt where there seemed to be the best chance of getting through.</p> + +<p>The seals, which to the south of the ice had been following us +in decreasing numbers, had now disappeared almost entirely, and +curiously enough we saw very few seals in the pack. Luckily, however, +Lieutenant Gjertsen's watch got three seals, and for a week we were +able to enjoy seal-beef, popularly known as "crocodile beef," three +times a day. Seal-beef and fresh whortleberries -- delicioso!</p> + +<p>We went comparatively well through the ice, though at night -- from +eleven to one -- we had to slacken speed, as it was impossible to +steer clear on account of the darkness, and towards morning we had +a heavy fall of snow, so that nothing could be seen, and the engine +had to be stopped. When it cleared, at about 9 a.m., we had come +into a dam, out of which we luckily managed to turn fairly easily, +coming out into a bay. This was formed by over a hundred icebergs, +many of which lay in contact with each other and had packed the ice +close together. On the west was the outlet, which we steered for, +and by 10 p.m. on February 23 we were already out of the ice and in +open water. Our latitude was then 69º S., longitude 175.5º E.</p> + +<p>It is very curious to find such calm weather in Ross Sea; in the two +months we have been here we have hardly had a strong breeze. Thus, when +I was relieved at 2 a.m. on the 25th, I wrote in my diary `. . . It +is calm, not a ripple on the water. The three men forming the watch +walk up and down the deck. Now and then one hears the penguins' +cry, kva, kva, but except these there is no other sound than the +tuff, tuff of the motor, 220 times a minute. Ah, that motor! it goes +unweariedly. It has now gone for 1,000 hours without being cleaned, +while on our Atlantic cruise last year it stopped dead after going +for eighty hours. . . . Right over us we have the Southern Cross, +all round glow the splendid southern lights, and in the darkness can +be seen the gleaming outline of an iceberg. . . ."</p> + +<p>On the 26th we crossed the Antarctic Circle, and the same day the +temperature both of air and water rose above 32º F.</p> + +<p>It was with sorrow in our hearts that we ate our last piece of +"crocodile beef," but I hoped we should get a good many albatrosses, +which we saw as soon as we came out of the ice. They were mostly +the sooty albatross, that tireless bird that generally circles alone +about the ship and is so difficult to catch, as he seldom tries to +bite at the pork that is used as bait. When I saw these birds for +the first time, as a deck boy, I was told they were called parsons, +because they were the souls of ungodly clergymen, who had to wait +down here till doomsday without rest.</p> + +<p>More or less in our course to Cape Horn there are supposed to be +two groups of islands, the Nimrod group in about long. 158º W., and +Dougherty Island in about long. 120º W. They are both marked "D" +(Doubtful) on the English charts. Lieutenant Shackleton's vessel, +the Nimrod, Captain Davis, searched for both, but found neither; +Dougherty Island, however, is said to have been twice sighted. The +Fram's course was therefore laid for the Nimrod group. For a time +things went very well, but then we had a week of northerly winds -- +that is, head winds -- and when at last we had a fair wind again, +we were so far to the south-east of them that there was no sense +in sailing back to the north-west to look for doubtful islands; it +would certainly have taken us weeks. Consequently, our course was +laid for Dougherty Island. We had westerly winds for about two weeks, +and were only two or three days' sail from the island in question, +when suddenly we had a gale from the north-east, which lasted for +three days, and ended in a hurricane from the same quarter. When +this was over, we had come according to dead reckoning about eighty +nautical miles to the south-east of the island; the heavy swell, +which lasted for days, made it out of the question to attempt to go +against it with the motor. We hardly had a glimpse of sun or stars, +and weeks passed without our being able to get an observation, so +that for that matter we might easily be a degree or two out in our +reckoning. For the present, therefore, we must continue to regard +these islands as doubtful.</p> + +<p>Moral: Don't go on voyages of discovery, my friend; you're no good +at it!</p> + +<p>As soon as we were out of Ross Sea and had entered the South Pacific +Ocean, the old circus started again -- in other words, the Fram began +her everlasting rolling from one side to the other. When this was at +its worst, and cups and plates were dancing the fandango in the galley, +its occupant's only wish was, "Oh, to be in Buenos Aires!" For that +matter, it is not a very easy job to be cook in such circumstances, +but ours was always in a good humour, singing and whistling all day +long. How well the Fram understands the art of rolling is shown by +the following little episode.</p> + +<p>One afternoon a couple of us were sitting drinking coffee on a +tool-box that stood outside the galley. As ill-luck would have it, +during one of the lurches the lashing came loose, and the box shot +along the deck. Suddenly it was checked by an obstacle, and one of +those who were sitting on it flew into the air, through the galley +door, and dashed past the cook with a splendid tiger's leap, until he +landed face downwards at the other end of the galley, still clinging +like grim death to his cup, as though he wanted something to hold on +to. The face he presented after this successful feat of aviation was +extremely comical, and those who saw it had a hearty fit of laughter.</p> + +<p>As has already been said, we went very well for a time after reaching +the Pacific, a fair wind for fourteen days together, and I began to +hope that we were once more in what are called the "westerlies." +However, nothing is perfect in this world, and we found that out here, +as we had icebergs every day, and were constantly bothered by +snow-squalls or fog; the former were, of course, to be preferred, as +it was at any rate clear between the squalls; but fog is the worst +thing of all. It sometimes happened that all hands were on deck the +whole night to work the ship at a moment's notice, and there were +never less than two men on the lookout forward. The engine, too, was +always ready to be started instantly. A little example will show how +ready the crew were at any time.</p> + +<p>One Sunday afternoon, when Hansen, Kristensen and I were on watch, +the wind began to draw ahead, so that we had to beat. It was blowing +quite freshly, but I did not want to call the watch below, as they +might need all the sleep they could get, and Hansen and I were to put +the ship about. Kristensen was steering, but gave us a hand when he +could leave the wheel. As the ship luffed up into the wind and the +sails began to flap pretty violently, the whole of the watch below +suddenly came rushing on deck in nothing but their unmentionables +and started to haul. Chance willed it that at the same moment an +iceberg came out of the fog, right in front of our bows. It was not +many minutes, either, before we were on the other tack, and the watch +below did not linger long on deck. With so few clothes on it was no +pleasure to be out in that cold, foggy air. They slept so lightly, +then, that it took no more noise than that to wake them. When I +afterwards asked one of them -- I think it was Beck -- what made +them think of coming up, he replied that they thought we were going +to run into an iceberg and were trying to get out of the way.</p> + +<p>It has happened at night that I have seen the ice-blink as far off +as eight miles, and then there is nothing to fear; but sometimes in +the middle of the day we have sailed close to icebergs that have only +been seen a few minutes before we were right on them. As the voyage +was long, we sailed as fast as we could, as a rule; but on two or +three nights we had to reduce our way to a minimum, as we could not +see much farther than the end of the bowsprit.</p> + +<p>After two or three weeks' sailing the icebergs began gradually to +decrease, and I hoped we should soon come to the end of them; but +on Sunday, March 5, when it was fairly clear, we saw about midday a +whole lot of big bergs ahead. One of the watch below, who had just +come on deck, exclaimed: "What the devil is this beastly mess you +fellows have got into?" He might well ask, for in the course of that +afternoon we passed no less than about a hundred bergs. They were +big tabular bergs, all of the same height, about 100 feet, or about +as high as the crow's-nest of the Fram. The bergs were not the least +worn, but looked as if they had calved quite recently. As I said, it +was clear enough, we even got an observation that day (lat. 61º S., +long. 150º W.), and as we had a west wind, we twisted quite elegantly +past one iceberg after another. The sea, which during the morning had +been high enough for the spray to dash over the tops of the bergs, +gradually went down, and in the evening, when we were well to leeward +of them all, it was as smooth as if we had been in harbour. In the +course of the night we passed a good many more bergs, and the next +day we only saw about twenty.</p> + +<p>In the various descriptions of voyages in these waters, opinions are +divided as to the temperature of the water falling in the neighbourhood +of icebergs. That it falls steadily as one approaches the pack-ice +is certain enough, but whether it falls for one or a few scattered +icebergs, no doubt depends on circumstances.</p> + +<p>One night at 12 o'clock we had a temperature in the water of 34.1º +F., at 4 a.m. 33.8º F., and at 8 a.m. 33.6º F.; at 6 a.m. we passed +an iceberg. At 12 noon the temperature had risen to 33.9º F. In this +case one might say that the temperature gave warning, but, as a rule, +in high latitudes it has been constant both before and after passing +an iceberg.</p> + +<p>On Christmas Eve, 1911, when on our second trip southward we saw the +first real iceberg, the temperature of the water fell in four hours +from 35.6º F. to 32.7º F., which was the temperature when the bergs +were passed, after which it rose rather rapidly to 35º F.</p> + +<p>In the west wind belt I believe one can tell with some degree of +certainty when one is approaching ice. In the middle of November, 1911, +between Prince Edward Island and the Crozet Islands (about lat. 47º +S.) the temperature fell. Towards morning I remarked to someone: +"The temperature of the water is falling as if we were getting near +the ice." On the forenoon of the same day we sailed past a very small +berg; the temperature again rose to the normal, and we met no more +ice until Christmas Eve.</p> + +<p>On Saturday, March 4, the day before we met that large collection +of bergs, the temperature fell pretty rapidly from 33.9º F. to 32.5º +F. We had not then seen ice for nearly twenty-four hours. At the same +time the colour of the water became unusually green, and it is possible +that we had come into a cold current. The temperature remained as low +as this till Sunday morning, when at 8 a. m. it rose to 32.7º F.; +at 12 noon, close to a berg, to 32.9º F., and a mile to lee of it, +to 33º F. It continued to rise, and at 4 p.m., when the bergs were +thickest, it was 33.4º F.; at 8 p.m. 33.6º F., and at midnight 33.8º +F. If there had been a fog, we should certainly have thought we were +leaving the ice instead of approaching it; it is very curious, too, +that the temperature of the water should not be more constant in +the presence of such a great quantity of ice; but, as I have said, +it may have been a current.</p> + +<p>In the course of the week following March 5 the bergs became rarer, +but the same kind of weather prevailed. Our speed was irreproachable, +and in one day's work (from noon to noon) we covered a distance of +200 nautical miles, or an average of about 82 knots an hour, which +was the best day's work the Fram had done up to that time. The wind; +which had been westerly and north-westerly, went by degrees to the +north, and ended in a hurricane from the north-east on Sunday, March +12. I shall quote here what I wrote about this in my diary on the 13th:</p> + +<p>"Well, now we have experienced the first hurricane on the Fram. On +Saturday afternoon, the 11th, the wind went to the north-east, as an +ordinary breeze with rain. The barometer had been steady between 29.29 +inches (744 millimetres) and 29.33 inches (745 millimetres). During +the afternoon it began to fall, and at 8 p.m. it was 29.25 inches +(743 millimetres) without the wind having freshened at all. The outer +jib was taken in, however. By midnight the barometer had fallen to +29.0 inches (737 millimetres), while the wind had increased to a stiff +breeze. We took in the foresail, mainsail, and inner jib, and had now +only the topsail and a storm-trysail left. The wind gradually increased +to a gale. At 4 a.m. on Sunday the barometer had fallen again to 28.66 +inches (728 millimetres), and at 6 a.m. the topsail was made fast.[3]</p> + +<p>The wind increased and the seas ran higher, but we did not ship much +water. At 8 a.m. the barometer was 28.30 inches (719 millimetres), +and at 9 a.m. 28.26 inches (718 millimetres), when at last it +stopped going down and remained steady till about noon, during +which time a furious hurricane was blowing. The clouds were brown, +the colour of chocolate; I cannot remember ever having seen such an +ugly sky. Little by little the wind went to the north, and we sailed +large under two storm-trysails. Finally, we had the seas on our beam, +and now the Fram showed herself in all her glory as the best sea-boat +in the world. It was extraordinary to watch how she behaved. Enormous +seas came surging high to windward, and we, who were standing on the +bridge, turned our backs to receive them, with some such remark as: +'Ugh, that's a nasty one coming.' But the sea never came. A few +yards from the ship it looked over the bulwarks and got ready to +hurl itself upon her. But at the last moment the Fram gave a wriggle +of her body and was instantly at the top of the wave, which slipped +under the vessel. Can anyone be surprised if one gets fond of such a +ship? Then she went down with the speed of lightning from the top of +the wave into the trough, a fall of fourteen or fifteen yards. When +we sank like this, it gave one the same feeling as dropping from +the twelfth to the ground-floor in an American express elevator, +'as if everything inside you was coming up.' It was so quick that we +seemed to be lifted off the deck. We went up and down like this all the +afternoon and evening, till during the night the wind gradually dropped +and it became calm. That the storm would not be of long duration +might almost be assumed from its suddenness, and the English rule --</p> + +<p>Long foretold, long last; Short notice, soon past' -- +may thus be said to have held good.</p> + +<p>"When there is a strong wind on her beam, the Fram does not roll +so much as usual, except for an occasional leeward lurch; nor was +any excessive quantity of water shipped in this boisterous sea. The +watch went below as usual when they were relieved, and, as somebody +very truly remarked, all hands might quite well have turned in, if we +had not had to keep a lookout for ice. And fortune willed it that the +day of the hurricane was the first since we had left the Barrier that +we did not see ice -- whether this was because the spray was so high +that it hid our view, or because there really was none. Be that as it +may, the main thing was that we saw no ice. During the night we had +a glimpse of the full moon, which gave the man at the wheel occasion +to call out 'Hurrah!' -- and with good reason, as we had been waiting +a long time for the moon to help us in looking out for ice.</p> + +<p>"In weather like this one notices nothing out of the ordinary +below deck. Here hardly anything is heard of the wind, and in +the after-saloon, which is below the water-line, it is perfectly +comfortable. The cook, who resides below, therefore reckons 'ugly +weather' according to the motion of the vessel, and not according to +storms, fog, or rain. On deck we do not mind much how it blows, so +long as it is only clear, and the wind is not against us. How little +one hears below deck may be understood from the fact that yesterday +morning, while it was blowing a hurricane, the cook went about as +usual, whistling his two verses of 'The Whistling Bowery Boy.' While +he was in the middle of the first, I came by and told him that it +was blowing a hurricane if he cared to see what it looked like. 'Oh, +yes,' he said, 'I could guess it was blowing, for the galley fire +has never drawn so well; the bits of coal are flying up the chimney'; +and then he whistled through the second verse. All the same, he could +not resist going up to see. It was not long before he came down again, +with a 'My word, it is blowing, and waves up to the sky!' No; it was +warmer and more cosy below among his pots and pans.</p> + +<p>"For dinner, which was eaten as usual amid cheerful conversation, +we had green-pea soup, roast sirloin, with a glass of aquavit, and +caramel pudding; so it may be seen that the cook was not behindhand in +opening tins, even in a hurricane. After dinner we enjoyed our usual +Sunday cigar, while the canary, which has become Kristensen's pet, +and hangs in his cabin, sang at the top of its voice."</p> + +<p>On March 14 we saw the last iceberg; during the whole trip we had +seen and passed between 500 and 600 bergs.</p> + +<p>The wind held steady from the north-east for a week and a half, and +I was beginning to think we should be stuck down here to play the +Flying Dutchman. There was every possible sign of a west wind, but +it did not come. On the night of the 17th it cleared; light cirrus +clouds covered the sky, and there was a ring about the moon. This, +together with the heavy swell and the pronounced fall of the barometer, +showed that something might be expected. And, sure enough, on Sunday, +March 19, we were in a cyclone. By manoeuvring according to the rules +for avoiding a cyclone in the southern hemisphere, we at any rate +went well clear of one semicircle. About 4 p.m. on Sunday afternoon +the barometer was down to 27.56 inches (700 millimetres), the lowest +barometer reading I have ever heard of. From noon to 4 p.m. there was +a calm, with heavy sea. Immediately after a gale sprang up from the +north-west, and in the course of a couple of days it slowly moderated +to a breeze from the same quarter.</p> + +<p>Sunday, March 5, a hundred icebergs; Sunday March 12, a hurricane; +and Sunday, March 19, a cyclone: truly three pleasant "days of rest."</p> + +<p>The curves given on the next page, which show the course of barometric +pressure for a week, from Monday to Monday, are interesting.</p> + +<p>By way of comparison a third curve is given from the north-east trade, +where there is an almost constant breeze and fine weather.</p> + +<p>On this trip the fore-saloon was converted into a sail-loft, where +Rönne and Hansen carried on their work, each in his watch. The +after-saloon was used as a common mess-room, as it is warmer, and +the motion is far less felt than forward.</p> + +<p>From the middle of March it looked as if the equinoctial gales were +over, for we had quite fine weather all the way to Buenos Aires. Cape +Horn was passed on March 31 in the most delightful weather -- a light +westerly breeze, not a cloud in the sky, and only a very slight swell +from the west. Who would have guessed that such splendid weather was +to be found in these parts? -- and that in March, the most stormy +month of the year.</p> + +<p>Lieutenant Gjertsen and Kutschin collected plankton all the time; +the latter smiled all over his face whenever he chanced to get one +or two "tadpoles" in his tow-net.</p> + +<p>From the Falkland Islands onward the Fram was washed and painted, +so that we might not present too "Polar" an appearance on arrival at +Buenos Aires.</p> + +<p>It may be mentioned as a curious fact that the snow with which we +filled our water-tanks on the Barrier did not melt till we were in +the River La Plata, which shows what an even temperature is maintained +in the Fram's hold.</p> + +<p>About midday on Easter Sunday we were at the mouth of the River La +Plata, without seeing land, however. During the night the weather +became perfect, a breeze from the south, moonlight and starry, and we +went up the river by soundings and observations of the stars until at +1 a.m. on Monday, when we had the Recalada light-ship right ahead. We +had not seen any light since we left Madeira on September 9. At 2.30 +the same morning we got a pilot aboard, and at seven in the evening +we anchored in the roads of Buenos Aires.</p> + +<p>We had then been nearly once round the world, and for over seven +months the anchor had not been out.</p> + +<p>We had reckoned on a two months' voyage from the ice, and it had +taken us sixty-two days.</p> + +<p>The Oceanographical Cruise.</p> + +<p>According to the programme, the Fram was to go on an oceanographical +cruise in the South Atlantic, and my orders were that this was to +be arranged to suit the existing circumstances. I had reckoned on a +cruise of about three months. We should have to leave Buenos Aires +at the beginning of October to be down in the ice at the right time +(about the New Year).</p> + +<p>As we were too short-handed to work the ship, take soundings, etc., +the following four seamen were engaged: H. Halvorsen, A. Olsen, +F. Steller, and J. Andersen.</p> + +<p>At last we were more or less ready, and the Fram sailed from Buenos +Aires on June 8, 1911, the anniversary of our leaving Horten on our +first hydrographic cruise in the North Atlantic. I suppose there was +no one on board on June 8, 1910, who dreamed that a year later we +should go on a similar cruise in the South.</p> + +<p>We had a pilot on board as far as Montevideo, where we arrived on the +afternoon of the 9th; but on account of an increasing wind (pampero) +we had to lie at anchor here for a day and a half, as the pilot could +not be taken off. On Saturday afternoon, the 10th, he was fetched +off by a big tug-boat, on board of which was the Secretary of the +Norwegian Consulate. This gentleman asked us if we could not come +into the harbour, as "people would like to see the ship." I promised +to come in on the way back, "if we had time."</p> + +<p>On Sunday morning, the 11th, we weighed anchor, and went out in +the most lovely weather that can be imagined. Gradually the land +disappeared, and in the course of the evening we lost the lights; +we were once more out in the Atlantic, and immediately everything +resumed its old course.</p> + +<p>In order to save our supply of preserved provisions as much as +possible, we took with us a quantity of live poultry, and no fewer +than twenty live sheep, which were quartered in the "farmyard" on the +port side of the vessel's fore-deck. Sheep and hens were all together, +and there was always a most beautiful scent of hay, so that we had not +only sea air, but "country air." In spite of all this delightful air, +three or four of the crew were down with influenza, and had to keep +their berths for some days.</p> + +<p>I reckoned on being back at Buenos Aires by the beginning of September, +and on getting, if possible, one station a day. The distance, +according to a rough calculation, was about 8,000 nautical miles, +and I laid down the following plan: To go about east by north with +the prevailing northerly and north-westerly winds to the coast of +Africa, and there get hold of the south-east trade. If we could not +reach Africa before that date, then to turn on July 22 and lay our +course with the south-east trade for St. Helena, which we could reach +before August 1; from there again with the same wind to South Trinidad +(August 11 or 12); on again with easterly and north-easterly winds on +a south-westerly course until about August 22, when the observations +were to be concluded, and we should try to make Buenos Aires in the +shortest time.</p> + +<p>That was the plan that we attempted. On account of the fresh water +from the River La Plata, we did not begin at once to take samples of +water, and with a head-wind, north-east, we lay close-hauled for some +days. We also had a pretty stiff breeze, which was another reason +for delaying the soundings until the 17th.</p> + +<p>For taking samples of water a winch is used, with a sounding-line of, +let us say, 5,000 metres (2,734 fathoms), on which are hung one or more +tubes for catching water; we used three at once to save time. Now, +supposing water and temperatures are to be taken at depths of 300, +400, and 500 metres (164, 218, and 273 fathoms), Apparatus III. (see +diagram) is first hung on, about 20 metres (10 fathoms) from the end +of the line, where a small weight (a) hangs; then it is lowered until +the indicator-wheel, over which the line passes, shows 100 metres +(54 fathoms); Apparatus II. is then put on, and it is lowered again +for another 100 metres, when Apparatus I. is put on and the line paid +out for 300 metres (164 fathoms) -- that is, until the indicator-wheel +shows 500 metres (273 fathoms). The upper Apparatus (I.) is then at +300 metres (164 fathoms), No. II. at 400 metres (218 fathoms), and +No. III. at 500 metres (273 fathoms). Under Apparatus I. and II. is +hung a slipping sinker (about 8 centimetres, or 3 1/4 inches, long, +and 3 centimetres, or 1 1/4 inches, in diameter). To the water-samplers +are attached thermometers (b) in tubes arranged for the purpose.</p> + +<p>The water-samplers themselves consist of a brass cylinder (c), about +38 centimetres (15 inches) long and 4 centimetres (1 1/2 inches) +in diameter (about half a litre of water), set in a frame (d). At +about the middle of the cylinder are pivots, which rest in bearings +on the frame, so that the cylinder can be swung 180 degrees (straight +up and down).</p> + +<p>The cylinder, while being lowered in an inverted position, is open +at both ends, so that the water can pass through. But at its upper +and lower ends are valves, working on hinges and provided with +packing. When the apparatus is released, the cylinder swings round, +and these valves then automatically close the ends of the cylinder. The +water that is thus caught in the cylinder at the required depth remains +in it while it is being heaved up, and is collected in bottles. When +the apparatus is released, the column of mercury in the thermometer +is broken, and the temperature of the water is read at the same depth +as the water is taken from.</p> + +<p>The release takes place in the following manner: when all the +cylinders have been lowered to the required depths, they are left +hanging for a few minutes, so that the thermometers may be set at +the right temperature before the column of mercury is broken. Then a +slipping sinker is sent down the line. When this sinker strikes the +first apparatus, a spring is pressed, a hook (e) which has held the +cylinder slips loose, and the cylinder turns completely over (Apparatus +I.). As it does this, the valves, as already mentioned, close the +ends of the cylinder, which is fixed in its new position by a hook +in the bottom of the frame. At the same instant the slipping sinker +that hangs under Apparatus I. is released, and continues the journey +to Apparatus II., where the same thing happens. It is then repeated +with Apparatus III. When they are all ready, they are heaved in.</p> + +<p>By holding one's finger on the line one can feel, at all events in +fairly calm weather, when the sinkers strike against the cylinders; +but I used to look at my watch, as it takes about half a minute for +the sinker to go down 100 metres.</p> + +<p>The necessary data are entered in a book.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 17th, then, the sails were clewed up, and the +Fram began to roll even worse than with the sails set. We first tried +taking soundings with a sinker of 66 pounds, and a tube for taking +specimens of the sea-bed. At 2,000 metres (1,093 fathoms) or more +the line (piano wire) broke, so that sinker, tube, and over 2,000 +metres of line continued their way unhindered to the bottom. I had +thought of taking samples of water at 4,000, 3,000, and 2,000 metres +(2,187, 1,639, 1,093 fathoms), and so on, and water-cylinders were put +on from 0 to 2,000 metres. This, however, took six hours. Next day, +on account of the heavy sea, only a few samples from 0 to 100 metres +(54 fathoms) were taken. On the third day we made another attempt to +get the bottom. This time we got specimens of the sea-bed from about +4,500 metres (about 2,500 fathoms); but the heaving in and taking of +water samples and temperatures occupied eight hours, from 7 a.m. till +3 p.m., or a third part of the twenty-four hours. In this way we should +want at least nine months on the route that had been laid down; but as, +unfortunately, this time was not at our disposal, we at once gave up +taking specimens of the bottom and samples of water at greater depths +than 1,000 metres (546 fathoms). For the remainder of the trip we took +temperatures and samples of water at the following depths: 0, 5, 10, +25, 50, 75, 100, 150, 200, 250, 300, 400, 500, 750, and 1,000 metres +(0, 2 3/4, 5 1/2, 13 1/2, 27, 41, 54, 81, 108, 135, 164, 218, 273, +410, and 546 fathoms), in all, fifteen samples from each station, +and from this time forward we went on regularly with one station +every day. Finally, we managed to heave up two water-cylinders on +the same line by hand without great difficulty. At first this was +done with the motor and sounding-machine, but this took too long, +and we afterwards used nothing but a light hand-winch. Before very +long we were so practised that the whole business only took two hours.</p> + +<p>These two hours were those we liked best of the twenty-four. All kinds +of funny stories were told, especially about experiences in Buenos +Aires, and every day there was something new. Here is a little yarn:</p> + +<p>One of the members of the expedition had been knocked down by +a motor-car in one of the busiest streets; the car stopped and of +course a crowd collected at once. Our friend lay there, wondering +whether he ought not to be dead, or at least to have broken a leg, so +as to get compensation. While he lay thus, being prodded and examined +by the public, he suddenly remembered that he had half a dollar in +his pocket. With all that money it didn't matter so much about the +compensation; up jumped our friend like an india-rubber ball, and +in a second he had vanished in the crowd, who stood open-mouthed, +gazing after the "dead" man.</p> + +<p>Our speed on this cruise was regulated as nearly as possible so +that there might be about 100 nautical miles between each station, +and I must say we were uncommonly lucky in the weather. We made two +fairly parallel sections with comparatively regular intervals between +the stations; as regular, in any case, as one can hope to get with a +vessel like the Fram, which really has too little both of sail area +and engine power. The number of stations was 60 in all and 891 samples +of water were taken. Of plankton specimens 190 were sent home. The +further examination of these specimens in Norway will show whether +the material collected is of any value, and whether the cruise has +yielded satisfactory results.</p> + +<p>As regards the weather on the trip, it was uniformly good the whole +time; we had a good deal of wind now and then, with seas and rolling, +but for the most part there was a fresh breeze. In the south-east +trade we sailed for four weeks at a stretch without using the engine, +which then had a thorough overhauling. At the same time we had a good +opportunity of smartening up the ship, which she needed badly. All +the iron was freed from rust, and the whole vessel painted both +below and above deck. The decks themselves were smeared with a +mixture of oil, tar and turpentine, after being scoured. All the +rigging was examined. At the anchorage at Buenos Aires nearly the +whole ship was painted again, masts and yards, the outside of the +vessel and everything inboard, both deck-houses, the boats and the +various winches, pumps, etc. In the engine-room everything was either +shining bright or freshly painted, everything hung in its place and +such order and cleanliness reigned that it was a pleasure to go down +there. The result of all this renovating and smartening up was that, +when we fetched up by the quay at Buenos Aires, the Fram looked +brighter than I suppose she has ever done since she was new.</p> + +<p>During the trip the holds were also cleaned up, and all the provisions +re-stowed and an inventory made of them.</p> + +<p>A whole suit of sails was completely worn out on this voyage; but +what can one expect when the ship is being worked every single day, +with clewing up, making fast and setting of sails both in calms +and winds? This work every day reminded me of the corvette Ellida, +when the order was "all hands aloft." As a rule, though, it was only +clewing up the sails that had to be done, as we always had to take +soundings on the weather side, so that the sounding-line should not +foul the bottom of the vessel and smash the apparatus. And we did +not lose more than one thermometer in about nine hundred soundings.</p> + +<p>On account of all this wear and tear of sails Rönne was occupied the +whole time, both at sea and in Buenos Aires, in making and patching +sails, as there was not much more than the leeches left of those +that had been used, and on the approaching trip (to the Ice Barrier) +we should have to have absolutely first-class things in the "Roaring +Forties."</p> + +<p>June 30, 1911, is a red-letter day in the Fram's history, as on that +day we intersected our course from Norway to the Barrier, and the +Franz thus completed her first circumnavigation of the globe. Bravo, +Fram! It was well done, especially after the bad character you have +been given as a sailer and a sea-boat. In honour of the occasion we +had a better dinner than usual, and the Franz was congratulated by +all present on having done her work well.</p> + +<p>On the evening of July 29 St. Helena was passed. It was the first +time I had seen this historic island. It was very strange to think +that "the greatest spirit of a hundred centuries," as some author has +called Napoleon, should have ending his restless life on this lonely +island of the South Atlantic.</p> + +<p>On August 12, when daylight came, we sighted the little Martin Vaz +Islands ahead, and a little later South Trinidad (in 1910 this island +was passed on October 16). We checked our chronometers, which, however, +proved to be correct. From noon till 2 p.m., while we were lying +still and taking our daily hydrographic observations, a sailing ship +appeared to the north of us, lying close-hauled to the south. She bore +down on us and ran up her flag, and we exchanged the usual greetings; +she was a Norwegian barque bound for Australia. Otherwise we did not +see more than four or five ships on the whole voyage, and those were +pretty far off:</p> + +<p>Never since leaving Madeira (September, 1910) had we been troubled +with animals or insects of any kind whatever; but when we were in +Buenos Aires for the first time, at least half a million flies came +aboard to look at the vessel. I hoped they would go ashore when the +Fram sailed; but no, they followed us, until by degrees they passed +peacefully away on fly-paper.</p> + +<p>Well, flies are one thing, but we had something else that was worse -- +namely, rats -- our horror and dread, and for the future our deadly +enemies. The first signs of them I found in my bunk and on the table +in the fore-saloon; they were certainly not particular. What I said on +that occasion had better not be printed, though no expression could be +strong enough to give vent to one's annoyance at such a discovery. We +set traps, but what was the use of that, when the cargo consisted +exclusively of provisions?</p> + +<p>One morning, as Rönne was sitting at work making sails, he observed +a "shadow" flying past his feet, and, according to his account, +into the fore-saloon. The cook came roaring: "There's a rat in the +fore-saloon!" Then there was a lively scene; the door was shut, and +all hands started hunting. All the cabins were emptied and rummaged, +the piano, too; everything was turned upside down, but the rat had +vanished into thin air.</p> + +<p>About a fortnight later I noticed a corpse-like smell in Hassel's +cabin, which was empty. On closer sniffing and examination it turned +out to be the dead rat, a big black one, unfortunately a male rat. The +poor brute, that had starved to death, had tried to keep itself alive +by devouring a couple of novels that lay in a locked drawer. How the +rat got into that drawer beats me.</p> + +<p>On cleaning out the provision hold nests were found with several +rats in them: six were killed, but at least as many escaped, so now +no doubt we have a whole colony. A reward was promised of ten cigars +for each rat; traps were tried again, but all this did very little +good. When we were in Buenos Aires for the second time we got a cat +on board; it certainly kept the rats down, but it was shot on the +Barrier. At Hobart we provided a few traps, which caught a good many; +but we shall hardly get rid of them altogether until we have landed +most of the provisions, and smoked them out.</p> + +<p>We have also had a lot of moth; at present they have done nothing +beyond eating a couple of holes in my best trousers.</p> + +<p>During the whole of this cruise we had a fishing-line hanging out, +but it hung for a whole month without there being a sign of a fish, +in spite of the most delicate little white rag that was attached +to the hook. One morning the keenest of our fishermen came up as +usual and felt the line. Yes, by Jove! at last there was one, and a +big one, too, as he could hardly haul in the line by himself. There +was a shout for assistance. "Hi, you beggar! come and lend a hand; +there's a big fish!" Help came in a second, and they both hauled for +all they were worth. "Ah! he's a fine, glistening fish; it'll be grand +to get fresh fish for dinner!" At last the fish appeared over the rail; +but, alas! it was seen to have no head. It was an ordinary stockfish, +about three-quarters of a yard long, that some joker had hung on the +line during the night. That we all had a hearty laugh goes without +saying, the fishermen included, as they took it all in good part.</p> + +<p>As a fishing-boat the Fram is on the whole not very successful. The +only fish we caught, besides the above-mentioned stockfish, was a real +live fish; but, unfortunately, it fell off the hook as it was being +hauled in. According to the account of eye-witnesses, this fish was +. . . six feet long and one broad.</p> + +<p>Now we don't fish any more.</p> + +<p>On August 19 the hydrographic observations were brought to an end, +and a course was laid for Buenos Aires, where we anchored in the +roads at midnight on September 1.</p> + +<p>At Buenos Aires.</p> + +<p>To arrive at Buenos Aires in the early part of 1911 was not an unmixed +pleasure, especially when one had no money. The Fram Expedition +was apparently not very popular at that time, and our cash balance +amounted to about forty pesos (about (L)3 10s.), but that would not +go very far; our supply of provisions had shrunk to almost nothing, +and we had not enough to be able to leave the port. I had been told +that a sum had been placed to the credit of the Fram for our stay +in Buenos Aires, but I neither saw nor heard anything of it while we +were there, and it was no doubt somewhat imaginary.</p> + +<p>If we were to be at all able to go down and take off the shore party +money must be found. We had come to the end of sail-cloth and ropes, +we had too little food and a minimum of oil; all this would have to be +provided. At the worst the oceanographical cruise could be cut out, +and we could lie still at Buenos Aires; then, as our comrades could +not very well be left to perish on the ice, enough would have to be +sent us from Norway to enable us to go down there; but that would +finish the whole expedition, as in such a case the Fram had orders +to go back to Norway.</p> + +<p>As usual, however, the Fram's luck helped her again. A few days +before we left Norway our distinguished compatriot in Buenos Aires, +Don Pedro Christophersen, had cabled that he would supply us with +what provisions we might require, if, after leaving Madeira, we would +call at Buenos Aires. Of course, he did not know at that time that the +voyage would be extended to include the South Pole, and that the Fram +on arrival at Buenos Aires would be almost empty instead of having +a full cargo, but that did not prevent his helping us. I immediately +called on him and his brother, the Norwegian Minister; fortunately, +they were both very enthusiastic about our Chief's change of plan.</p> + +<p>When, on a subsequent occasion, I expressed my astonishment at not +hearing from home, I was told that the funds of the Expedition were +exhausted, and Mr. Christophersen promised me, on hearing what straits +we were in, to pay all our expenses in Buenos Aires, and to supply +us with provisions and fuel. That brought us out of our difficulties +at a bound, and we had no more need to take thought for the morrow.</p> + +<p>Everyone on board received a sum of money for his personal expenses +from the Norwegian colony of the River Plate, and we were invited to +their dinner on Independence Day, May 17.</p> + +<p>Our second stay at Buenos Aires was very pleasant; everyone was +amiability itself, and festivities were even got up for us. We +took on board provisions that had been sent out from Norway by +Mr. Christophersen's orders, about 50,000 litres (11,000 gallons) +of petroleum, ship's stores, and so on; enough for a year. But this +was not all. Just before we sailed Mr. Christophersen said he would +send a relief expedition, if the Fram did not return to Australia by +a certain date; but, as everyone knows, this was happily unnecessary.</p> + +<p>During the three weeks we were lying at the quay in Buenos Aires we +were occupied in getting everything on board, and making the vessel +ready for sea. We had finished this by the afternoon of Wednesday, +October 4, and next morning the Pram was ready to continue her second +circumnavigation of the globe.</p> + +<p>In Buenos Aires we lay at the same quay as the Deutschland, the German +Antarctic Expedition's ship.</p> + +<p>A. Kutschin and the second engineer, J. Nödtvedt, went home, and +seaman J. Andersen was discharged.</p> + +<p>From Buenos Aires to the Ross Barrier.</p> + +<p>On the trip from Buenos Aires to the Barrier the watches were divided +as follows: From eight to two: T. Nilsen, L. Hansen, H. Halvorsen, +and A. Olsen. From two to eight: H. Gjertsen, A. Beck, M. Rönne, and +F. Steller. In the engine-room: K. Sundbeck and H. Kristensen. Lastly, +K. Olsen, cook. In all eleven men.</p> + +<p>It is said that "well begun is half done," and it almost seems as if a +bad beginning were likely to have a similar continuation. When we left +the northern basin on the morning of October 5, there was a head wind, +and it was not till twenty-four hours later that we could drop the +pilot at the Recalada lightship. After a time it fell calm, and we made +small progress down the River La Plata, until, on the night of the 6th, +we were clear of the land, and the lights disappeared on the horizon.</p> + +<p>Properly speaking, we ought to have been in the west wind belt as +soon as we came out, and the drift of the clouds and movement of +the barograph were examined at least twenty-four times a day, but +it still remained calm. At last, after the lapse of several days, we +had a little fresh south-westerly wind with hail showers, and then, +of course, I thought we had made a beginning; but unfortunately it +only lasted a night, so that our joy was short-lived.</p> + +<p>We took with us from Buenos Aires fifteen live sheep and fifteen live +little pigs, for which two houses were built on the after-deck; as, +however, one of the pigs was found dead on the morning after the +south-westerly breeze just mentioned, I assumed that this was on +account of the cold, and another house was at once built for them +between decks (in the work-room), where it was very warm. They were +down here the whole time; but as their house was cleaned out twice +a day and dry straw put on the floor, they did not cause us much +inconvenience; besides which, their house was raised more than half a +foot above the deck itself, so that the space below could always be +kept clean. The pigs thrived so well down here that we could almost +see them growing; on arrival at the Barrier we had no fewer than +nine alive.</p> + +<p>The sheep had a weather-tight house with a tarpaulin over the roof, +and they grew fatter and fatter; we had every opportunity of noticing +this, as we killed one of them regularly every Saturday until we +came into the pack-ice and got seal-meat. We had four sheep left on +reaching the Barrier.</p> + +<p>We did wretchedly in October -- calms and east winds, nothing but +east winds; as regards distance it was the worst month we had had +since leaving Norway, notwithstanding that the Fram had been in dry +dock, had a clean bottom and a light cargo. When close-hauled with +any head sea, we scarcely move; a stiff fair wind is what is wanted +if we are to get on. Somebody said we got on so badly because we had +thirteen pigs on board; another said it was because we caught so many +birds, and I had caught no less than fourteen albatrosses and four +Cape pigeons. Altogether there is quite enough of what I will call +superstition at sea. One particular bird brings fine weather, another +storms; it is very important to notice which way the whale swims or +the dolphin leaps; the success of seal-hunting depends on whether +the first seal is seen ahead or astern, and so on. Enough of that.</p> + +<p>October went out and November came in with a fresh breeze from the +south-south-west, so that we did nine and a half knots. This promised +well for November, but the promise was scarcely fulfilled. We had +northerly wind or southerly wind continually, generally a little to +the east of north or south, and I believe I am not saying too much +when I state that in the "west wind belt" with an easterly course we +lay close-hauled on one tack or the other for about two-thirds of the +way. For only three days out of three months did we have a real west +wind, a wind which, with south-westerly and north-westerly winds, +I had reckoned on having for 75 per cent. of the trip from Buenos +Aires to about the longitude of Tasmania.</p> + +<p>In my enthusiasm over the west wind in question, I went so far as +to write in my diary at 2 a.m. on November 11: "There is a gale from +the west, and we are making nine knots with foresail and topsail. The +sea is pretty high and breaking on both sides of the vessel, so that +everything about us is a mass of spray. In spite of this, not a drop +of water comes on deck, and it is so dry that the watch are going +about in clogs. For my part I am wearing felt slippers, which will +not stand wet. Sea-boots and oilskins hang ready in the chart-house, +in case it should rain. On a watch like to-night, when the moon is kind +enough to shine, everyone on deck is in the best of humours, whistling, +chattering, and singing. Somebody comes up with the remark that 'She +took that sea finely,' or 'Now she's flying properly.' 'Fine' is almost +too feeble an expression; one ought to say 'lightly and elegantly' +when speaking of the Fram . . . . What more can one wish?" etc.</p> + +<p>But whatever time Adam may have spent in Paradise, we were not +there more than three days, and then the same wretched state of +things began again. What I wrote when there was a head wind or calm, +I should be sorry to reproduce. Woe to him who then came and said it +was fine weather.</p> + +<p>It was lucky for us that the Fram sails so much more easily now +than in 1910, otherwise we should have taken six months to reach the +Barrier. When we had wind, we used it to the utmost; but we did not do +this without the loss of one or two things; the new jib-sheet broke +a couple of times, and one night we carried away the outer bobstay +of the jib-boom. The foresail and topsail were neither made fast nor +reefed during the whole trip.</p> + +<p>The last time the jib-sheet broke there was a strong breeze from the +south-west with a heavy sea; all sail was set with the exception of +the spanker, as the ship would not steer with that. There was an extra +preventer on the double jib-sheet, but in spite of that the sheets +broke and the jib was split with a fearful crack. Within a minute +the mainsail and gaff-topsail were hauled down, so that the ship +might fall off, and the jib hauled down. This was instantly unbent +and a new one bent. The man at the helm, of course, got the blame +for this, and the first thing he said to me was "I couldn't help it, +she was twisting on the top of a wave." We were then making ten knots, +and more than that we shall not do.</p> + +<p>The Fram rolled well that day. A little earlier in the afternoon, +at two o'clock, when the watch had gone below to dinner and were just +eating the sweet, which on that occasion consisted of preserved pears, +we felt that there was an unusually big lurch coming. Although, of +course, we had fiddles on the table, the plates, with meat, potatoes, +etc., jumped over the fiddles, which they didn't care a button for, +into Beck's cabin. I caught one of the pears in its flight, but the +plate with the rest of them went on its way. Of course there was a +great shout of laughter, which stopped dead as we heard a violent +noise on deck, over our heads; I guessed at once it was an empty +water-tank that had broken loose, and with my mouth full of pear +I yelled "Tank!" and flew on deck with the whole watch below at my +heels. A sea had come in over the after-deck, and had lifted the tank +up from its lashings. All hands threw themselves upon the tank, and +held on to it till the water had poured off the deck, when it was +again fixed in its place. When this was done, my watch went below +again and lit their pipes as if nothing had happened.</p> + +<p>On November 13 we passed the northernmost of the Prince Edward Islands, +and on the 18th close to Penguin Island, the most south-westerly +of the Crozets. In the neighbourhood of the latter we saw a great +quantity of birds, a number of seals and penguins, and even a little +iceberg. I went close to the land to check the chronometers, which +an observation and bearings of the islands showed to be correct.</p> + +<p>Our course was then laid for Kerguelen Island, but we went too far +north to see it, as for two weeks the wind was south-easterly and +southerly, and the leeway we made when sailing close-hauled took us +every day a little to the north of east. When we were in the same +waters in 1910, there was gale after gale; then we did not put in at +Kerguelen on account of the force of the wind; this time we could not +approach the island because of the wind's direction. In no respect +can the second trip be compared with the first; I should never have +dreamed that there could be so much difference in the "Roaring Forties" +in two different years at the same season. In the "Foggy Fifties" +the weather was calm and fine, and we had no fog until lat. 58º S.</p> + +<p>As regards the distance sailed, November, 1911, is the best month +the Fram has had.</p> + +<p>In December, which began with a speed of one and a half knots, calm, +swell against us, and the engine at full speed, we had a fair wind for +three days, all the rest calms and head winds; the first part of the +month from the north-east and east, so that we came much too far south; +even in long. 150 E. we were in lat. 60º S. In Christmas week we had +calms and light winds from the south-east, so that we managed to steal +eastward to long. 170º E. and lat. 65º S., where, on the edge of the +pack-ice, we had a stiff breeze from the north-north-east, that is, +straight on to the ice.</p> + +<p>Between Buenos Aires and the pack-ice we caught, as I have said, +a good many birds, mostly albatrosses, and about thirty skins were +prepared by L. Hansen. The largest albatross we got measured twelve +feet between the tips of its wings, and the smallest bird was of a +land species, not much bigger than a humming-bird.</p> + +<p>Talking of albatrosses, it is both amusing and interesting to watch +their elegant flight in a high wind. Without a movement of the wings +they sail, now with, now against, the wind; at one instant they +touch the surface of the water with the points of their wings, at the +next they go straight into the air like an arrow. An interesting and +instructive study for an aviator.</p> + +<p>In a wind, when there is generally a number of them hovering about the +vessel, they will dash down after anything that is thrown overboard; +but of course it is useless to try to catch them when the ship has +so much way. This must be done the next day, when the wind is lighter.</p> + +<p>The birds are caught with an iron triangle, which ought to be enclosed +in wood, so that it will float on the water. At the apex, which is +very acute, the iron is filed as sharp as a knife, and pork is hung +on each of the sides. When this is thrown in the wake of the ship, +the bird settles on the water to feed. The upper part of its beak is +hooked like that of a bird of prey, and as the albatross opens its beak +and bites at the pork, you give a jerk, so that the triangle catches +the upper part of the beak by two small notches, and the bird is left +hanging. If the line should break, the whole thing simply falls off +and the bird is unharmed. In hauling in, therefore, you have to be +very careful to hold the line quite tight, even if the bird flies +towards you, otherwise it will easily fall off: A bird may be pulled +half-way in several times, and will immediately take the bait again.</p> + +<p>On the night of December 11 an unusually beautiful aurora was seen; +it lasted over an hour, and moved in a direction from west to east.</p> + +<p>On the 14th all the white paint was washed; the temperature was 43º +F., and we were in shirt-sleeves.</p> + +<p>For a whole week before Christmas the cook was busy baking Christmas +cakes. I am bound to say he is industrious; and the day before +Christmas Eve one of the little pigs, named Tulla, was killed. The +swineherd, A. Olsen, whose special favourite this pig was, had to +keep away during the operation, that we might not witness his emotion.</p> + +<p>Early on the morning of Christmas Eve we saw the three first icebergs; +there was an absolute calm all day, with misty air.</p> + +<p>To keep Christmas the engine was stopped at 5 p.m., and then all hands +came to dinner. Unfortunately we had no gramophone to sing to us, as in +1910; as a substitute the "orchestra" played "Glade Jul, hellige Jul," +when all were seated. The orchestra was composed of Beck on the violin, +Sundbeck on the mandolin, and the undersigned on the flute. I puffed +out my cheeks as much as I could, and that is not saying a little, +so that the others might see how proficient I was. I hardly think +it was much of a musical treat; but the public was neither critical +nor ceremonious, and the prevalent costume was jerseys. The dinner +consisted of soup, roast pork, with fresh potatoes and whortleberries, +ten-years-old aquavit and Norwegian bock beer, followed by wine-jelly +and "kransekake," with -- champagne. The toasts of their Majesties +the King and Queen, Don Pedro Christophersen, Captain Amundsen, +and the Fram were drunk.</p> + +<p>I had decorated the saloon in a small way with artificial flowers, +embroideries, and flags, to give a little colour. Dinner was followed +by cigars and the distribution of Christmas presents. L. Hansen +played the accordion, and Lieutenant Gjertsen and Rönne danced "folk +dances"; the latter was, as usual, so amusing that he kept us in fits +of laughter.</p> + +<p>At ten o'clock it was all over, the engine was started again, one +watch went to bed and the other on deck; Olsen cleaned out the pigsty, +as usual at this time of night. That finished Christmas for this year.</p> + +<p>As has been said before, Sir James Ross was down here in the +1840's. Two years in succession he sailed from the Pacific into Ross +Sea with two ships that had no auxiliary steam-power. I assumed, +therefore, that if he could get through so easily, there must be +some place between South Victoria Land and the Barrier (or land) +on the other side, where there was little or no ice. Following this +assumption, I intended to go down to the western pack-ice (that lying +off South Victoria Land) and steer along it till we were in Ross Sea, +or, at all events, until we found a place where we could easily get +through. It is quite possible that Ross was very lucky in the time +at which he encountered the ice, and that he only sailed in clear +weather. We had no time to spare, however, but had to make use of +whatever wind there was, even if we could not see very far.</p> + +<p>As early as December 28, at 5 p.m., in lat. 65º S. and long. 171.5º +E., it was reported that we were off the pack. I was a good deal +surprised, as recent expeditions had not met the pack until 66.5º +S., or about one hundred nautical miles farther south, nor had there +been any sign of our being so near the ice. The wind for the last +few days had been south-easterly, but for the moment it was calm; we +therefore held on to the east along the edge of the pack, with the ice +to starboard. About midnight the wind freshened from the north, and we +lay close-hauled along the edge of the ice till midday on the 29th, +when the direction of the ice became more southerly. The northerly +wind, which gradually increased to a stiff breeze, was good enough +for getting us on, but it must inevitably bring fog and snow in its +train. These came, sure enough, as thick as a wall, and for a couple +of days we sailed perfectly blindly.</p> + +<p>Outside the pack-ice proper lie long streams of floes and loose +scattered lumps, which become more frequent as one nears the pack. For +two days we sailed simply by the lumps of ice; the more of them we saw, +the more easterly was our course, until they began to decrease, when we +steered more to the south. In this way we went in forty-eight hours +from lat. 65º S. and long. 174º E. to lat. 69º S. and long. 178º +E., a distance of about two hundred and fifty nautical miles, +without entering the pack. Once we very nearly went into the trap, +but fortunately got out again. The wind was so fresh that we did as +much as eight and a half knots; when sailing at such a rate through +a loose stream of ice, we sometimes ran upon a floe, which went under +the ship's bottom, and came up alongside the other way up.</p> + +<p>During the afternoon of the 31st the streams of ice became closer +and closer, and then I made the mistake of continuing to sail to the +eastward; instead of this, I ought to have stood off, and steered +due south or to the west of south, with this ice on ourport side. The +farther we advanced, the more certain I was that we had come into the +eastern pack-ice. It must be remembered, however, that owing to fog +and thick snow we had seen nothing for over two days. Observations +there were none, of course; our speed had varied between two and eight +and a half knots, and we had steered all manner of courses. That our +dead reckoning was not very correct in such circumstances goes without +saying, and an observation on January 2 showed us that we were somewhat +farther to the east than we had reckoned. On the evening of December 31 +the fog lifted for a while, and we saw nothing but ice all round. Our +course was then set due south. We had come right down in lat. 69.5º +S., and I hoped soon to be clear altogether; in 1910 we got out of +the ice in 70ºS., and were then in the same longitude as now.</p> + +<p>Now, indeed, our progress began to be slow, and the old year went out +in a far from pleasant fashion. The fog was so thick that I may safely +say we did not see more than fifty yards from the ship, whereas we +ought to have had the midnight sun; ice and snow-sludge were so thick +that at times we lay still. The wind had, unfortunately, fallen off, +but we still had a little breeze from the north, so that both sails +and engine could be used. We went simply at haphazard; now and then +we were lucky enough to come into great open channels and even lakes, +but then the ice closed again absolutely tight. It could hardly be +called real ice, however, but was rather a snow-sludge, about two feet +thick, and as tough as dough; it looked as if it had all just been +broken off a single thick mass. The floes lay close together, and we +could see how one floe fitted into the other. The ice remained more +or less close until we were right down in lat. 73ºS. and long. 179º +W.; the last part of it was old drift-ice.</p> + +<p>From here to the Bay of Whales we saw a few scattered streams of +floes and some icebergs.</p> + +<p>A few seals were shot in the ice, so that we had fresh meat enough, +and could save the sheep and pigs until the shore party came on +board. I was sure they would appreciate fresh roast pork.</p> + +<p>The chart of Ross Sea has been drawn chiefly as a guide to future +expeditions. It may be taken as certain that the best place to go +through the ice is between long. 176º E. and 180º, and that the best +time is about the beginning of February.</p> + +<p>Take, for instance, our southward route in 1911 -- 1912: as has been +said, the ice was met with as early as in 65º S., and we were not +clear of it till about 73º S.; between 68º S. and 69º S. the line +is interrupted, and it was there that I ought to have steered to +the south.</p> + +<p>Now follow the course from the Bay of Whales in 1912. Only in about 75º +S. was ice seen (almost as in 1911), and we followed it. After that +time we saw absolutely no more ice, as the chart shows; therefore in +the course of about a month and a half all the ice that we met when +going south had drifted out.</p> + +<p>The stippled line shows how I assume the ice to have lain; the heavy +broken line shows what our course ought to have been.</p> + +<p>The midnight sun was not seen till the night of January 7, 1912, +to the south of lat. 77º S.; it was already 9.5º above the horizon.</p> + +<p>On the night of January 8 we arrived off the Barrier in extremely +bitter weather. South-westerly and southerly winds had held for a +few days, with fair weather; but that night there was thick snow, +and the wind gradually fell calm, after which a fresh breeze sprang +up from the south-east, with biting snow, and at the same time a lot +of drift-ice. The engine went very slowly, and the ship kept head to +wind. About midnight the weather cleared a little, and a dark line, +which proved to be the Barrier, came in sight. The engine went ahead +at full speed, and the sails were set, so that we might get under +the lee of the perpendicular wall. By degrees the ice-blink above the +Barrier became lighter and lighter, and before very long we were so +close under it that we only just had room to go about. The Barrier +here runs east and west, and with a south-easterly wind we went along +it to the east. The watch that had gone below at eight o'clock, when +we were still in open sea, came up again at two to find us close to +the long-desired wall of ice.</p> + +<p>Some hours passed in the same way, but then, of course, the wind +became easterly -- dead ahead -- so that we had tack after tack till +6 p.m. the same day, when we were at the western point of the Bay +of Whales.</p> + +<p>The ice lay right out to West Cape, and we sailed across the mouth +of the bay and up under the lee of the eastern Barrier, in order, +if possible, to find slack ice or open water; but no, the fast ice +came just as far on that side. It turned out that we could not get +farther south than 78º30' -- that is, eleven nautical miles farther +north than the previous year, and no less than fifteen nautical miles +from Framheim, taking into consideration the turn in the bay.</p> + +<p>We were thus back at the same place we had left on February 14, +1911, and had since been round the world. The distance covered on +this voyage of circumnavigation was 25,000 nautical miles, of which +8,000 belong to the oceanographical cruise in the South Atlantic.</p> + +<p>We did not lie under the lee of the eastern Barrier for more than +four hours; the wind, which had so often been against us, was true to +its principles to the last. Of course it went to the north and blew +right up the bay; the drift-ice from Ross Sea came in, and at midnight +(January 9 -- 10) we stood out again.</p> + +<p>I had thought of sending a man up to Framheim to report that we had +arrived, but the state of the weather did not allow it. Besides, I +had only one pair of private ski on board and should therefore only +have been able to send one man. It would have been better if several +had gone together.</p> + +<p>During the forenoon of the l0th it gradually cleared, the wind fell +light and we stood inshore again. As at the same time the barometer +was rising steadily, Lieutenant Gjertsen went ashore on ski about +one o'clock.</p> + +<p>Later in the afternoon a dog came running out across the sea-ice, +and I thought it had come down on Lieutenant Gjertsen's track; but I +was afterwards told it was one of the half-wild dogs that ran about +on the ice and did not show themselves up at the hut.</p> + +<p>Meanwhile the wind freshened again; we had to put out for another +twenty-four hours and lay first one way and then the other with +shortened sail; then there was fine weather again and we came in. At 4 +p.m. on the 11th Lieutenant Gjertsen returned with Lieutenant Prestrud, +Johansen and Stubberud. Of course we were very glad to see one another +again and all sorts of questions were asked on both sides. The Chief +and the southern party were not yet back. They stayed on board till +the 12th, got their letters and a big pile of newspapers and went +ashore again; we followed them with the glasses as far as possible, +so as to take them on board again if they could not get across the +cracks in the ice.</p> + +<p>During the days that followed we lay moored to the ice or went out, +according to the weather.</p> + +<p>At 7 p.m. on the 16th we were somewhat surprised to see a vessel +bearing down. For my part, I guessed her to be the Aurora, Dr. Mawson's +ship. She came very slowly, but at last what should we see but the +Japanese flag! I had no idea that expedition was out again. The ship +came right in, went past us twice and moored alongside the loose +ice. Immediately afterwards ten men armed with picks and shovels went +up the Barrier, while the rest rushed wildly about after penguins, +and their shots were heard all night. Next morning the commander of +the Kainan Maru, whose name was Homura, came on board. The same day +a tent was set up on the edge of the Barrier, and cases, sledges, and +so on, were put out on the ice. Kainan Maru means, I have been told, +"the ship that opens the South."</p> + +<p>Prestrud and I went on board her later in the day, to see what she +was like, but we met neither the leader of the expedition nor the +captain of the ship. Prestrud had the cinematograph apparatus with him, +and a lot of photographs were also taken.</p> + +<p>The leader of the Japanese expedition has written somewhere or other +that the reason of Shackleton's losing all his ponies was that the +ponies were not kept in tents at night, but had to lie outside. He +thought the ponies ought to be in the tents and the men outside. From +this one would think they were great lovers of animals, but I must +confess that was not the impression I received. They had put penguins +into little boxes to take them alive to Japan! Round about the deck +lay dead and half-dead skua gulls in heaps. On the ice close to the +vessel was a seal ripped open, with part of its entrails on the ice; +but the seal was still alive. Neither Prestrud nor I had any sort of +weapon that we could kill the seal with, so we asked the Japanese +to do it, but they only grinned and laughed. A little way off two +of them were coming across the ice with a seal in front of them; +they drove it on with two long poles, with which they pricked it +when it would not go. If it fell into a crack, they dug it up again +as you would see men quarrying stone at home; it had not enough life +in it to be able to escape its tormentors. All this was accompanied +by laughter and jokes. On arrival at the ship the animal was nearly +dead, and it was left there till it expired.</p> + +<p>On the 19th we had a fresh south-westerly wind and a lot of ice +went out. The Japanese were occupied most of the night in going +round among the floes and picking up men, dogs, cases, and so on, as +they had put a good deal on to the ice in the course of the day. As +the ice came out, so the Fram went in, right up to fat. 78º35' S., +while the Kainan Maru drifted farther and farther out, till at last +she disappeared. Nor did we see the vessel again, but a couple of +men with a tent stayed on the Barrier as long as we were in the bay.</p> + +<p>On the night of the 24th there was a stiff breeze from the west, +and we drifted so far out in the thick snow that it was only on the +afternoon of the 27th that we could make our way in again through a +mass of ice. In the course of these two days so much ice had broken +up that we came right in to fat. 78º39' S., or almost to Framheim, and +that was very lucky. As we stood in over the Bay of Whales, we caught +sight of a big Norwegian naval ensign flying on the Barrier at Cape +Man's Head, and I then knew that the southern party had arrived. We +went therefore as far south as possible and blew our powerful siren; +nor was it very long before eight men came tearing down. There was +great enthusiasm. The first man on board was the Chief; I was so +certain he had reached the goal that I never asked him. Not till an +hour later, when we had discussed all kinds of other things, did I +enquire "Well, of course you have been at the South Pole?"</p> + +<p>We lay there for a couple of days; on account of the short distance +from Framheim, provisions, outfit, etc., were brought on board. If such +great masses of ice had not drifted out in the last few days, it would +probably have taken us a week or two to get the same quantity on board.</p> + +<p>At 9.30 p.m. on January 30, 1912, in a thick fog, we took our moorings +on board and waved a last farewell to the mighty Barrier.</p> + +<p>From the Barrier to Buenos Aires, Via Hobart.</p> + +<p>The first day after our departure from the Barrier everything we had +taken on board was stowed away, so that one would not have thought +our numbers were doubled, or that we had taken several hundred cases +and a lot of outfit on board. The change was only noticed on deck, +where thirty-nine powerful dogs made an uproar all day long, and in +the fore-saloon, which was entirely changed. This saloon, after being +deserted for a year, was now full of men, and it was a pleasure to +be there; especially as everyone had something to tell -- the Chief +of his trip, Prestrud of his, and Gjertsen and I of the Fram's.</p> + +<p>However, there was not very much time for yarning. The Chief at once +began writing cablegrams and lectures, which Prestrud and I translated +into English, and the Chief then copied again on a typewriter. In +addition to this I was occupied the whole time in drawing charts, +so that on arrival at Hobart everything was ready; the time passed +quickly, though the voyage was fearfully long.</p> + +<p>As regards the pack-ice we were extremely lucky. It lay in exactly +the same spot where we had met with it in 1911 -- that is, in about +lat. 75º S. We went along the edge of it for a very short time, and +then it was done with. To the north of 75º we saw nothing but a few +small icebergs.</p> + +<p>We made terribly slow progress to the northward, how slow may perhaps +be understood if I quote my diary for February 27:</p> + +<p>"This trip is slower than anything we have had before; now and then +we manage an average rate of two knots an hour in a day's run. In +the last four days we have covered a distance that before would have +been too little for a single day. We have been at it now for nearly +a month, and are still only between lat. 52º and 53º S. Gales from +the north are almost the order of the day," etc. However, it is an +ill wind that blows nobody any good, and the time was well employed +with all we had to do.</p> + +<p>After a five weeks' struggle we at last reached Hobart and anchored +in the splendid harbour on March 7.</p> + +<p>Our fresh provisions from Buenos Aires just lasted out; the last of +the fresh potatoes were finished a couple of days before our arrival, +and the last pig was killed when we had been at Hobart two days.</p> + +<p>The Fram remained here for thirteen days, which were chiefly spent in +repairing the propeller and cleaning the engine; in addition to this +the topsail-yard, which was nearly broken in the middle, was spliced, +as we had no opportunity of getting a new one.</p> + +<p>The first week was quiet on board, as, owing to the circumstances, +there was no communication with the shore; but after that the ship +was full of visitors, so that we were not very sorry to get away again.</p> + +<p>Twenty-one of our dogs were presented to Dr. Mawson, the leader of +the Australian expedition, and only those dogs that had been to the +South Pole and a few puppies, eighteen in all, were left on board.</p> + +<p>While we lay in Hobart, Dr. Mawson's ship, the Aurora, came in. I went +aboard her one day, and have thus been on board the vessels of all +the present Antarctic expeditions. On the Terra Nova, the British, on +February 4, 1911, in the Bay of Whales; on the Deutschland, the German, +in September and October, 1911, in Buenos Aires; on the Kainan Maru, +the Japanese, on January 17, 1912, in the Bay of Whales; and finally +on the Aurora in Hobart. Not forgetting the Fram, which, of course, +I think best of all.</p> + +<p>On March 20 the Fram weighed anchor and left Tasmania.</p> + +<p>We made very poor progress to begin with, as we had calms for nearly +three weeks, in spite of its being the month of March in the west wind +belt of the South Pacific. On the morning of Easter Sunday, April 7, +the wind first freshened from the north-west and blew day after day, +a stiff breeze and a gale alternately, so that we went splendidly +all the way to the Falkland Islands, in spite of the fact that the +topsail was reefed for nearly five weeks on account of the fragile +state of the yard. I believe most of us wanted to get on fast; the +trip was now over for the present, and those who had families at home +naturally wanted to be with them as soon as they could; perhaps that +was why we went so well.</p> + +<p>On April 1 Mrs. Snuppesen gave birth to eight pups; four of these +were killed, while the rest, two of each sex, were allowed to live.</p> + +<p>On Maundy Thursday, April 4, we were in long. 180º and changed the +date, so that we had two Maundy Thursdays in one week; this gave us a +good many holidays running, and I cannot say the effect is altogether +cheerful; it was a good thing when Easter Tuesday came round as an +ordinary week-day.</p> + +<p>On May 6 we passed Cape Horn in very fair weather; it is true we, +had a snow-squall of hurricane violence, but it did not last much +more than half an hour. For a few days the temperature was a little +below freezing-point, but it rose rapidly as soon as we were out in +the Atlantic.</p> + +<p>From Hobart to Cape Horn we saw no ice.</p> + +<p>After passing the Falkland Islands we had a head wind, so that the +last part of the trip was nothing to boast of.</p> + +<p>On the night of May 21 we passed Montevideo, where the Chief had +arrived a few hours before. From here up the River La Plata we +went so slowly on account of head wind that we did not anchor in +the roads of Buenos Aires till the afternoon of the 23rd, almost +exactly at the same time as the Chief landed at Buenos Aires. When +I went ashore next morning and met Mr. P. Christophersen, he was in +great good-humour. "This is just like a fairy tale," he said; and it +could not be denied that it was an amusing coincidence. The Chief, +of course, was equally pleased.</p> + +<p>On the 25th, the Argentine National Fête, the Fram was moored at the +same quay that we had left on October 5, 1911. At our departure there +were exactly seven people on board to say good-bye, but, as far as I +could see, there were more than this when we arrived; and I was able +to make out, from newspapers and other sources, that in the course of +a couple of months the third Fram Expedition had grown considerably +in popularity.</p> + +<p>In conclusion I will give one or two data. Since the Fram left +Christiania on June 7, 1910, we have been two and a half times round +the globe; the distance covered is about 54,400 nautical miles; the +lowest reading of the barometer during this time was 27.56 inches (700 +millimetres) in March, 1911, in the South Pacific, and the highest +30.82 inches (783 millimetres) in October, 1911, in the South Atlantic.</p> + +<p>On June 7, 1912, the second anniversary of our leaving Christiania, +all the members of the Expedition, except the Chief and myself, left +for Norway, and the first half of the Expedition was thus brought to +a fortunate conclusion.</p> + + +<h2>APPENDIX I: <a name="appi"></a> +The "Fram"</h2> + +<p>By Commodore Christian Blom</p> + +<p>Colin Archer says in his description of the Fram, in Fridtjof Nansen's +account of the Norwegian Arctic Expedition, 1893 -- 1896, that the +successful result of an expedition such as that planned and carried +out by Dr. Nansen in the years 1893 -- 1896 must depend on the care +with which all possible contingencies are foreseen, and precautions +taken to meet them, and the choice of every detail of the equipment +with special regard to the use to which it will be put. To no part +of the equipment, he says, could this apply with greater force than +to the ship which was to carry Dr. Nansen and his companions on their +adventurous voyage.</p> + +<p>Colin Archer then built the ship -- Fram was her name -- and she +showed -- first on Fridtjof Nansen's famous voyage, and afterwards +on Sverdrup's long wintering expedition in Ellesmere Land, that +she answered her purpose completely, nay, she greatly exceeded the +boldest expectations.</p> + +<p>Then Roald Amundsen decided to set out on a voyage not less adventurous +than the two former, and he looked about for a suitable ship. It +was natural that he should think of the Fram, but she was old -- +about sixteen years -- and had been exposed to many a hard buffet; +it was said that she was a good deal damaged by decay.</p> + +<p>Roald Amundsen, however, did not allow himself to be discouraged +by these misgivings, but wished to see for himself what kind of +a craft the Fram was after her two commissions. He therefore came +down to Horten with Colin Archer on June 1, 1908, and made a thorough +examination of the vessel. He then, in the spring of 1909, requested +the Naval Dockyard at Horten to repair the ship and carry out the +alterations he considered necessary for his enterprise.</p> + +<p>Before giving an account of the repairs and alterations to the vessel +in 1909 -- 1910, we shall briefly recapitulate, with the author's +permission, a part of the description of the Fram in Fridtjof Nansen's +work, especially as regards the constructive peculiarities of the +vessel.</p> + +<p>The problem which it was sought to solve in the construction of the +Fram was that of providing a ship which could survive the crushing +embrace of the Arctic drift-ice. To fit her for this was the object +before which all other considerations had to give way.</p> + +<p>But apart from the question of mere strength of construction, there +were problems of design and model which, it was thought, would play an +important part in the attainment of the chief object. It is sometimes +prudent in an encounter to avoid the full force of a blow instead of +resisting it, even if it could be met without damage; and there was +reason to think that by a judicious choice of model something might +be done to break the force of the ice-pressure, and thus lessen its +danger. Examples of this had been seen in small Norwegian vessels that +had been caught in the ice near Spitzbergen and Novaya Zemlya. It often +happens that they are lifted right out of the water by the pressure +of the ice without sustaining serious damage; and these vessels are +not particularly strong, but have, like most small sailing-ships, +a considerable dead rising and sloping sides. The ice encounters +these sloping sides and presses in under the bilge on both sides, +until the ice-edges meet under the keel, and the ship is raised up +into the bed that is formed by the ice itself.</p> + +<p>In order to turn this principle to account, it was decided to depart +entirely from the usual flat-bottomed frame-section, and to adopt +a form that would offer no vulnerable point on the ship's side, but +would cause the increasing horizontal pressure of the ice to effect +a raising of the ship, as described above. In the construction of +the Fram it was sought to solve this problem by avoiding plane or +concave surfaces, thus giving the vessel as far as possible round and +full lines. Besides increasing the power of resistance to external +pressure, this form has the advantage of making it easy for the ice +to glide along the bottom in any direction.</p> + +<p>The Fram was a three-masted fore-and-aft schooner with an auxiliary +engine of 200 indicated horse-power, which was calculated to give her +a speed of 6 knots, when moderately loaded, with a coal consumption +of 2.8 tons a day.</p> + +<p>The vessel was designed to be only large enough to carry the necessary +coal-supply, provisions, and other equipment for a period of five +years, and to give room for the crew.</p> + +<p>Her principal dimensions are:</p> + +<p>Length of keel 103.3 English feet +Length of waterline 119' +Length over all 128' +Beam on waterline 34' +Greatest beam 36' +Depth 17.2'</p> + +<p>Her displacement, with a draught of 15.6 feet, is 800 tons. The +measurements are taken to the outside of the planks, but do not +include the ice-skin. By Custom-house measurement she was found to +be 402 gross tons register, and 807 tons net.</p> + +<p>The ship, with engines and boilers, was calculated to weigh about 420 +tons. With the draught above mentioned, which gives a freeboard of 3 +feet, there would thus be 380 tons available for cargo. This weight +was actually exceeded by 100 tons, which left a freeboard of only +20 inches when the ship sailed on her first voyage. This additional +immersion could only have awkward effects when the ship came into the +ice, as its effect would then be to retard the lifting by the ice, +on which the safety of the ship was believed to depend in a great +measure. Not only was there a greater weight to lift, but there was +a considerably greater danger of the walls of ice, that would pile +themselves against the ship's sides, falling over the bulwarks and +covering the deck before the ice began to raise her. The load would, +however, be lightened by the time the ship was frozen fast. Events +showed that she was readily lifted when the ice-pressure set in, and +that the danger of injury from falling blocks of ice was less than +had been expected. The Fram's keel is of American elm in two lengths, +14 inches square; the room and space is 2 feet. The frame-timbers +are almost all of oak obtained from the Naval Dockyard at Horten, +where they had lain for many years, thus being perfectly seasoned. The +timbers were all grown to shape. The frames consist of two tiers of +timbers everywhere, each timber measuring 10 to 11 inches fore and aft; +the two tiers of timbers are fitted together and bolted, so that they +form a solid and compact whole. The joints of the frame-timbers are +covered with iron plates. The lining consists of pitch-pine in good +lengths and of varying thickness from 4 to 6 inches. The keelson is +also of pitch-pine, in two layers, one above the other; each layer 15 +inches square from the stem to the engine-room. Under the boiler and +engine there was only room for one keelson. There are two decks. The +beams of the main-deck are of American or German oak, those of the +lower deck and half-deck of pitch-pine and Norwegian fir. All the deck +planks are of Norwegian fir, 4 inches in the main-deck and 3 inches +elsewhere. The beams are fastened to the ship's sides by knees of +Norwegian spruce, of which about 450 were used. Wooden knees were, +as a rule, preferred to iron ones, as they are more elastic. A good +many iron knees were used, however, where wood was less suitable. In +the boiler and engine room the beams of the lower deck had to be +raised about 3 feet to give sufficient height for the engines. The +upper deck was similarly raised from the stern-post to the mainmast, +forming a half-deck, under which the cabins were placed. On this +half-deck, immediately forward of the funnel, a deck-house was +placed, arranged as a chart-house, from which two companions (one +on each side) led down to the cabins. Besides the ice-skin, there +is a double layer of outside planking of oak. The two first strakes +(garboard strakes), however, are single, 7 inches thick, and are +bolted both to the keel and to the frame-timbers. The first (inner) +layer of planks is 8 inches thick, and is only fastened with nails; +outside this comes a layer of 4-inch planks, fastened with oak trenails +and through bolts, as usual. The two top strakes are single again, and +6 inches thick. The ice-skin is of greenheart, and covers the whole +ship's side from the keel to 18 inches from the sheer strake. It is +only fastened with nails and jagged bolts. Each layer of planks was +caulked and pitched before the next one was laid. Thus only about 3 +or 4 inches of the keel projects below the planking, and this part of +the keel is rounded off so as not to hinder the ice from passing under +the ship's bottom. The intervals between the timbers were filled with +a mixture of coal-tar, pitch, and sawdust, heated together and put in +warm. The ship's side thus forms a compact mass varying in thickness +from 28 to 32 inches. As a consequence of all the intervals between +the timbers being filled up, there is no room for bilge-water under +the lining. A loose bottom was therefore laid a few inches above the +lining on each side of the keelson. In order to strengthen the ship's +sides still more, and especially to prevent stretching, iron braces +were placed on the lining, running from the clamps of the top deck +down to well past the floor-timbers.</p> + +<p>The stem consists of three massive oak beams, one inside the other, +forming together 4 feet of solid oak fore and aft, with a breadth of +15 inches. The three external plankings as well as the lining are all +rabbeted into the stem. The propeller-post is in two thicknesses, +placed side by side, and measures 26 inches athwart-ship and 14 +inches fore and aft. It will be seen from the plan that the overhang +aft runs out into a point, and that there is thus no transom. To +each side of the stern-post is fitted a stout stern-timber parallel +to the longitudinal midship section, forming, so to speak, a double +stern-post, and the space between them forms a well, which goes right +up through the top deck. The rudder-post is placed in the middle +of this well, and divides it into two parts, one for the propeller +and one for the rudder. In this way it is possible to lift both the +rudder and the screw out of the water. The rudder is so hung that +the rudder-stock, which is cylindrical, turns on its own axis, to +prevent the rudder being jammed if the well should be filled with +ice. Aft of the rudder-well the space between the stern-timbers is +filled with solid wood, and the whole is securely bolted together with +bolts running athwart-ship. The frame-timbers join the stern-timbers +in this part, and are fastened to them by means of knees. The stem +and stern-post are connected to the keelson and to the keel by stout +knees of timber, and both the ship's sides are bound together with +solid breasthooks and crutches of wood or iron.</p> + +<p>Although the Fram was not specially built for ramming, it was probable +that now and then she would be obliged to force her way through the +ice. Her bow and stern were therefore shod in the usual way. On the +forward side of the stem a segment-shaped iron was bolted from the +bobstay-bolt to some way under the keel. Outside this iron plates (3 x +3/4 inches) were fastened over the stem, and for 6 feet on each side +of it. These iron plates were placed close together, and thus formed +a continuous armour-plating to a couple of feet from the keel. The +sharp edge of the stern was protected in the same way, and the lower +sides of the well were lined with thick iron plates. The rudder-post, +which owing to its exposed position may be said to form the Achilles' +heel of the ship, was strengthened with three heavy pieces of iron, +one in the opening for the screw and one on each side of the two posts +and the keel, and bolted together with bolts running athwart-ship.</p> + +<p>Extraordinary precautions were taken for strengthening the ship's +sides, which were particularly exposed to destruction by ice-pressure, +and which, on account of their form, compose the weakest part of the +hull. These precautions will best be seen in the sections (Figs. 3 +and 4). Under each beam in both decks were placed diagonal stays of +fir (6 x 10 inches), almost at right angles to the ship's sides, and +securely fastened to the sides and to the beams by wooden knees. There +are 68 of these stays distributed over the ship. In addition, there +are under the beams three rows of vertical stanchions between decks, +and one row in the lower hold from the keelson. These are connected +to the keelson, to the beams, and to each other by iron bands. The +whole of the ship's interior is thus filled with a network of braces +and stays, arranged in such a way as to transfer and distribute the +pressure from without, and give rigidity to the whole construction. In +the engine and boiler room it was necessary to modify the arrangement +of stays, so as to give room for the engines and boiler. All the iron, +with the exception of the heaviest forgings, is galvanized.</p> + +<p>When Otto Sverdrup was to use the Fram for his Polar expedition, +he had a number of alterations carried out. The most important of +these consisted in laying a new deck in the fore part of the ship, +from the bulkhead forward of the engine-room to the stem, at a height +of 7 feet 4 inches (to the upper side of the planks) above the old +fore-deck. The space below the new deck was fitted as a fore-cabin, +with a number of state-rooms leading out of it, a large workroom, +etc. The old chart-house immediately forward of the funnel was removed, +and in its place a large water-tank was fitted. The foremast was +raised and stepped in the lower deck. A false keel, 10 inches deep +and 12 inches broad, was placed below the keel. A number of minor +alterations were also carried out.</p> + +<p>After the Fram returned in 1902 from her second expedition under +Captain Sverdrup, she was sent down to Horten to be laid up in the +Naval Dockyard.</p> + +<p>Not long after the vessel had arrived at the dockyard, Captain Sverdrup +proposed various repairs and alterations. The repairs were carried +out in part, but the alterations were postponed pending a decision +as to the future employment of the vessel.</p> + +<p>The Fram then lay idle in the naval harbour until 1905, when she was +used by the marine artillery as a floating magazine. In the same +year a good deal of the vessel's outfit (amongst other things all +her sails and most of her rigging) was lost in a fire in one of the +naval storehouses, where these things were stored.</p> + +<p>In 1903 the ship's keel and stem (which are of elm and oak) were +sheathed with zinc, while the outer sheathing (ice-skin), which is of +greenheart, was kept coated with coal-tar and copper composition. In +1907 the whole outer sheathing below the water-line was covered with +zinc; this was removed in 1910 when the ship was prepared for her +third commission under Roald Amundsen.</p> + +<p>In 1907 a thorough examination of the vessel was made, as it was +suspected that the timber inside the thick cork insulation that +surrounded the cabins had begun to decay.</p> + +<p>On previous expeditions the cabins, provision hold aft, and workrooms +forward of the fore-cabin, had been insulated with several thicknesses +of wooden panelling. The interstices were filled with finely-divided +cork, alternately with reindeer hair and thick felt and linoleum. In +the course of years damp had penetrated into the non-conducting +material, with the result that fungus and decay had spread in the +surrounding woodwork. Thus it was seen during the examination in 1907 +that the panelling and ceiling of the cabins in question were to a +great extent rotten or attacked by fungus. In the same way the under +side of the upper deck over these cabins was partly attacked by fungus, +as were its beams, knees, and carlings. The lower deck, on the other +hand, was better preserved. The filling-in timbers of spruce or fir +between the frame-timbers in the cabins were damaged by fungus, while +the frame-timbers themselves, which were of oak, were good. The outer +lining outside the insulated parts was also somewhat damaged by fungus.</p> + +<p>In the coal-bunkers over the main-deck the spruce knees were partly +rotten, as were some of the beams, while the lining was here fairly +good.</p> + +<p>The masts and main-topmast were somewhat attacked by decay, while +the rest of the spars were good.</p> + +<p>During and after the examination all the panelling and insulation +was removed, the parts attacked by fungus or decay were also removed, +and the woodwork coated with carbolineum or tar. The masts and various +stores and fittings were taken ashore at the same time.</p> + +<p>It was found that the rest of the vessel-that is, the whole of the +lower part of the hull right up to the cabin deck-was perfectly sound, +and as good as new. Nor was there any sign of strain anywhere. It is +difficult to imagine any better proof of the excellence of the vessel's +construction; after two protracted expeditions to the most northern +regions to which any ship has ever penetrated, where the vessel was +often exposed to the severest ice-pressure, and in spite of her being +(in 1907) fifteen years old, the examination showed that her actual +hull, the part of the ship that has to resist the heavy strain of +water and ice, was in just as good condition as when she was new.</p> + +<p>The vessel was then left in this state until, as already mentioned, +Roald Amundsen and her builder, Colin Archer, came down to the dockyard +on June 1, 1908, and with the necessary assistance made an examination +of her.</p> + +<p>After some correspondence and verbal conferences between Roald Amundsen +and the dockyard, the latter, on March 9, 1909, made a tender for the +repairs and alterations to the Fram. The repairs consisted of making +good the damage to the topsides referred to above.</p> + +<p>The alterations were due in the first instance to the circumstance +that the steam-engine and boiler (the latter had had its flues burnt +out on Sverdrup's expedition) were to be replaced by an oil-motor; as +a consequence of this the coal-bunkers would disappear, while, on the +other hand, a large number of oil-tanks, capable of containing about +90 tons of oil, were to be put in. It was also considered desirable +to rig square-sails on the foremast in view of the great distances +that were to be sailed on the proposed expedition.</p> + +<p>The present arrangement of the vessel will best be followed by +referring to the elevation and plan (Figs. 1 and 2).</p> + +<p>In the extreme after-part of the lower hold is placed the 180 +horse-power Diesel engine, surrounded by its auxiliary machinery +and air-reservoirs.</p> + +<p>In addition, some of the tanks containing the fuel itself are placed +in the engine-room (marked O); the other tanks shown in the engine-room +(marked 9) serve for storing lubricating oil. The existing engine-room +was formerly the engine and boiler room, with coal-bunkers on both +sides in the forward part. Forward of the watertight bulkhead of the +engine-room we have, in the lower hold, the main store of oil-fuel, +contained in tanks (marked O) of various sizes, on account of their +having to be placed among the numerous diagonal stays. The tanks are +filled and emptied by means of a pump and a petroleum hose through a +manhole in the top, over which, again, are hatches in the deck above; +no connecting pipes are fitted between the different tanks, for fear +they might be damaged by frost or shock, thus involving a risk of +losing oil. The main supply tank for fuel is placed over the forward +side of the engine-room, where it is supported on strong steel girders; +inside this tank, again, there are two smaller ones -- settling tanks +-- from which the oil is conveyed in pipes to the engine-pumps. The +main tank is of irregular shape -- as will be seen from the drawing +-- since a square piece is taken out of its starboard after-corner +for a way down into the engine-room. Besides this way down, an +emergency way leads up from the engine-room, right aft, to one of the +after-cabins. The oil hold is closed forward by a watertight bulkhead, +which goes up to the main-deck. The hold forward of the oil-supply +is unaltered, and serves for stowing cargo (mainly provisions), +as does the hold above the oil-supply and below the main-deck.</p> + +<p>On the main-deck right aft we now find a space arranged on each side +of the well for the propeller and rudder; the lower part of this +space is occupied by two tanks for lamp-oil, and above the tanks is +a thin partition, which forms the floor of two small sail-rooms, with +hatches to the deck above. Around the mizzenmast is the after-saloon, +with eight cabins leading out of it. From the forward end of the +after-saloon two passages lead to the large workroom amidships. These +passages run past what were formerly coal-bunkers, but are now arranged +as cabins, intended only to be used in milder climates, as they are +not provided with any special insulation. From the port passage a +door leads to the engine-room companion. In the after-part of the +large workroom is the galley. This room is entirely lined with zinc, +both on walls and ceiling (on account of the danger of fire), while the +deck is covered with lead, on which tiles are laid in cement. Forward +of the galley is the main hatch, and two large water-tanks are fitted +here, one on each side. The remainder of the workroom affords space +for carpenter's benches, turning-lathes, a forge, vices, etc. From +the workroom two doors lead into the fore-saloon with its adjoining +cabins. Amundsen's cabin is the farthest forward on the starboard side, +and communicates with an instrument-room. From the fore-saloon a door +leads out forward, past a sixth cabin.</p> + +<p>In the space forward on the main-deck we have the fore-hatch, and +by the side of this a room entirely lined with zinc plates, which +serves for storing furs. Forward of the fur store is fitted a 15 +horse-power one-cylinder Bolinder motor for working the capstan; the +main features of its working will be seen in the drawing. There are +two independent transmissions: by belt and by chain. The former is +usually employed. The chain transmission was provided as a reserve, +since it was feared that belt-driving might prove unserviceable in +a cold climate. This fear, however, has hitherto been ungrounded.</p> + +<p>Forward of the motor there is a large iron tank to supply water for +cooling it. In the same space are chain-pipes to the locker below +and the heel of the bowsprit. This space also serves as cable-tier.</p> + +<p>On the upper deck we find aft, the opening of the rudder-well and +that of the propeller-well, covered with gratings. A piece was added +to the lower part of the rudder to give more rudder area.</p> + +<p>Forward of the propeller-well comes the reserve steering-gear, almost +in the same position formerly occupied by the only steering-gear; the +ordinary steering-gear is now moved to the bridge. The old engine-room +companion aft is now removed, and forward of the after-wheel is only +the skylight of the after-saloon. Up through the latter comes the +exhaust-pipe of the main engine. Forward of and round the mizzenmast +is the bridge, which is partly formed by the roofs of the large +chart-house and laboratory amidships and the two houses on each +side. The chart-house occupies the place of the old boiler-room +ventilator, and abuts on the fore-deck. (It is thus a little aft of +the place occupied by the chart-house on Nansen's expedition.) It is +strongly built of timbers standing upright, securely bolted to the +deck. On both sides of this timber work there are panels, 2 inches +thick on the outside and 1 inch on the inside, and the space between +is filled with finely-divided cork. Floor and roof are insulated in +a similar way, as is also the door; the windows are double, of thick +plate-glass. Inside the chart-house, besides the usual fittings for +its use as such, there is a companion-way to the engine-room, and +a hatch over the manhole to the main supply tank for oil-fuel. The +opening in the deck has a hatch, made like the rest of the deck (in +two thicknesses, with cork insulation between); the intention is to +cut off the engine-room altogether, and remove the entrance of this +companion during the drift in the ice through the Polar sea. The side +houses are constructed of iron, and are not panelled; they are intended +for w.c. and lamp-room. On the roof of the chart-house are the main +steering-gear and the engine-room telegraph. On the port side, on the +forward part of the after-deck, a Downton pump is fitted, which can +either be worked by hand or by a small motor, which also serves to +drive the sounding-machine, and is set up on the after-deck. Forward +of the starboard side house is the spare rudder, securely lashed to +deck and bulwarks. On each side of the chart-house a bridge leads to +the fore-deck, with ways down to the workroom and fore-saloon. On +the fore-deck, a little forward of the mainmast, we find the two +ship's pumps proper, constructed of wood. The suction-pipe is of +wood, covered on the outside with lead, so as to ]prevent leakage +through possible cracks in the wood; the valves are of leather, +and the piston of wood, with a leather covering. The pump-action is +the usual nickel action, that was formerly general on our ships, and +is still widely used on smacks. These simple pumps have been shown by +experience to work better than any others in severe cold. The fore-deck +also has skylights over the fore-saloon, the main and fore hatches, +and finally the capstan. This is of the ordinary horizontal type, +from Pusnes Engineering Works; it is driven by the motor below, as +already mentioned. The capstan can also be used as a winch, and it +can be worked by hand-power.</p> + +<p>The Fram carries six boats: one large decked boat (29 x 9 x 4 feet) +-- one of the two large boats carried on Nansen's expedition -- +placed between the mainmast and the foremast, over the skylight; +three whale-boats (20 x 6 feet), and one large and one small pram; the +two last are carried on davits as shown in the drawing. One of these +whale-boats was left behind on the Ice Barrier, where it was buried +in snow when the ship left. It was brought ashore that the wintering +party might have a boat at their disposal after the Fram had sailed.</p> + +<p>For warming the vessel it is intended to use only petroleum. For +warming the laboratory (chart-house) there is an arrangement by which +hot air from the galley is brought up through its forward wall.</p> + +<p>The vessel was provided with iron chain plates bolted to the timbers +above the ice-skin. The mizzenmast is new. There was a crack in +the beam that forms the support for the mizzenmast; it was therefore +strengthened with two heavy iron plates, secured by through-bolts. Two +strong steel stanchions were also placed on each side of the engine, +carried down to the frame-timbers. The old mizzenmast has been +converted into a bowsprit and jib-boom in one piece. There are now +standing gaffs on all three masts. The sail area is about 6,640 +square feet.</p> + +<p>All the cabins are insulated in the same way as before, though it +has been found possible to simplify this somewhat. In general the +insulation consists of:</p> + +<p>1. In the cabins, against the ship's side and under the upper deck, +there is first a layer of cork, and over that a double panelling of +wood with tarred felt between.</p> + +<p>2. Above the orlop deck aft there is a layer of cork, and above this +a floor of boards covered with linoleum.</p> + +<p>3. Under the orlop deck forward there is wooden panelling, with +linoleum over the deck.</p> + +<p>Bulkheads abutting on parts of the ship that are not warmed consist +of three thicknesses of boards or planks with various non-conducting +materials, such as cork or felt, between them.</p> + +<p>When the vessel was docked before leaving Horten, the zinc sheathing +was removed, as already stated, since fears were entertained that it +would be torn by the ice, and would then prevent the ice from slipping +readily under the bottom during pressure. The vessel has two anchors, +but the former port anchor has been replaced by a considerably +heavier one (1 ton 1 1/2 hundredweight), with a correspondingly +heavier chain-cable. This was done with a special view to the voyage +round Cape Horn.</p> + +<p>In order to trim the ship as much as possible by the stern, which +was desirable on account of her carrying a weather helm, a number +of heavy spare stores, such as the old port anchor and its cable, +were stowed aft, and the extreme after-peak was filled with cement +containing round pieces of iron punched out of plates.</p> + +<p>Along the railing round the fore-deck strong netting has been placed +to prevent the dogs falling overboard. For the upper deck a loose +wooden grating has been made, so that the dogs shall not lie on +the wet deck. Awnings are provided over the whole deck, with only +the necessary openings for working the ship. In this way the dogs +have been given dry and, as far as possible, cool quarters for the +voyage through the tropics. It is proposed to use the ship's spars as +supports for a roof of boards, to be put up during the drift through +the ice as a protection against falling masses of ice.</p> + +<p>The Fram's new engine is a direct reversible Marine-Polar-Motor, +built by the Diesel Motor Co., of Stockholm. It is a Diesel engine, +with four working and two air-pump cylinders, and develops normally +at 280 revolutions per minute 180 effective horse-power, with a +consumption of oil of about 7 3/4 ounces per effective horse-power +per hour. With this comparatively small consumption, the Fram's fuel +capacity will carry her much farther than if she had a steam-engine, +a consideration of great importance in her forthcoming long voyage +in the Arctic Sea. With her oil capacity of about 90 tons, she will +thus be able to go uninterruptedly for about 2,273 hours, or about +95 days. If we reckon her speed under engine power alone at 4 1/2 +knots, she will be able to go about 10,000 nautical miles without +replenishing her oil-supply. It is a fault in the new engine that +its number of revolutions is very high, which necessitates the use +of a propeller of small diameter (5 feet 9 inches), and thus of low +efficiency in the existing conditions. This is the more marked on +account of the unusual thickness of the Fram's propeller-post, which +masks the propeller to a great extent. The position of the engine will +be seen in Fig. 1. The exhaust gases from the engine are sent up by +a pipe through the after-saloon, through its skylight, and up to a +large valve on the bridge; from this valve two horizontal pipes run +along the after side of the bridge, one to each side: By means of the +valve the gases can be diverted to one side or the other, according +to the direction of the wind, Besides the usual auxiliary engines, +the main engine drives a large centrifugal bilge-pump, an ordinary +machine bilge-pump, and a fan for use in the tropics.</p> + +<p>When the Fram left Christiania in the spring of 1910, after taking +her cargo on board, she drew 17 feet forward and 19 feet 5 inches +aft. This corresponds to a displacement (measured outside the ice-skin) +of about 1,100 tons. The ice-skin was then 12 1/2 inches above the +waterline amidships.</p> + +<h2> +APPENDIX II: <a name="appii"></a> +Remarks on the Meteorological Observations at Framheim</h2> + +<p>By B. J. Birkeland</p> + +<p>On account of the improvised character of the South Polar Expedition, +the meteorological department on the Fram was not so complete as it +ought to have been. It had not been possible to provide the aerological +outfit at the time of sailing, and the meteorologist of the expedition +was therefore left behind in Norway. But certain things were wanting +even to complete the equipment of an ordinary meteorological station, +such as minimum thermometers and the necessary instructions that should +have accompanied one or two of the instruments. Fortunately, among +the veterans of the expedition there were several practised observers, +and, notwithstanding all drawbacks, a fine series of observations was +obtained during ten months' stay in winter-quarters on the Antarctic +continent. These observations will provide a valuable supplement to +the simultaneous records of other expeditions, especially the British +in McMurdo Sound and the German in Weddell Sea, above all as regards +the hypsometer observations (for the determination of altitude) +on sledge journeys. It may be hoped, in any case, that it will be +possible to interpolate the atmospheric pressure at sea-level in all +parts of the Antarctic continent that were traversed by the sledging +expeditions. For this reason the publication of a provisional working +out of the observations is of great importance at the present moment, +although the general public will, perhaps, look upon the long rows +of figures as tedious and superfluous. The complete working out of +these observations can only be published after a lapse of some years.</p> + +<p>As regards the accuracy of the figures here given, it must be noted +that at present we know nothing about possible alterations in the +errors of the different instruments, as it will not be possible to +have the instruments examined and compared until we arrive at San +Francisco next year. We have provisionally used the errors that +were determined at the Norwegian Meteorological Institute before +the expedition sailed; it does not appear, however, that they have +altered to any great extent.</p> + +<p>The meteorological outfit on the Fram consisted of the following +instruments and apparatus:</p> + +<p>Three mercury barometers, namely:</p> + +<p> One normal barometer by Fuess, No. 361 . + One Kew standard barometer by Adie, No. 889. + One Kew marine barometer by Adie, No. 764.</p> + +<p>Five aneroid barometers:</p> + +<p> One large instrument with thermometer attached, without name + or number. + Two pocket aneroids by Knudsen, Copenhagen, one numbered 1,503. + Two pocket aneroids by Cary, London, Nos. 1,367 and 1,368, + for altitudes up to 5,000 metres (16,350 feet). + Two hypsometers by Casella, with several thermometers.</p> + +<p>Mercury thermometers:</p> + +<p> Twelve ordinary standard (psychrometer-) thermometers, + divided to fifths of a degree (Centigrade). + Ten ordinary standard thermometers, divided to degrees. + Four sling thermometers, divided to half degrees. + Three maximum thermometers, divided to degrees. + One normal thermometer by Mollenkopf, No. 25.</p> + +<p>Toluene thermometers:</p> + +<p> Eighteen sling thermometers, divided to degrees. + Three normal thermometers-by Tounelot, No. 4,993, and Baudin, + Nos. 14,803 and 14,804. + Two torsion hair hygrometers of Russeltvedt's construction, + Nos. 12 and 14. + One cup and cross anemometer of Professor Mohn's construction, + with spare cross. + One complete set of precipitation gauges, with Nipher's shield, + gauges for snow density, etc.</p> + +<p>Registering instruments:</p> + +<p> Two barographs. + Two thermographs. + One hair hygrograph. + A number of spare parts, and a supply of paper and ink for + seven years.</p> + +<p> +In addition, various books were taken, such as Mohn's "Meteorology," +the Meteorological Institute's "Guide," psychrometric tables, Wiebe's +steam-pressure tables for hypsometer observations, etc.</p> + +<p>The marine barometer, the large aneroid, and one of the barographs, +the four mercury sling thermometers, and two whole-degree standard +thermometers, were kept on board the Fram, where they were used for +the regular observations every four hours on the vessel's long voyages +backwards and forwards.</p> + +<p>As will be seen, the shore party was thus left without mercury sling +thermometers, besides having no minimum thermometers; the three maximum +thermometers proved to be of little use. There were also various +defects in the clockwork of the registering instruments. The barographs +and thermographs have been used on all the Norwegian Polar expeditions; +the hygrograph is also an old instrument, which, in the course of +its career, has worked for over ten years in Christiania, where +the atmosphere is by no means merciful to delicate instruments. Its +clockwork had not been cleaned before it was sent to the Fram, as was +done in the case of the other four instruments. The barographs worked +irreproachably the whole time, but one of the thermographs refused +absolutely to work in the open air, and unfortunately the spindle pivot +of the other broke as early as April 17. At first the clockwork of the +hygrograph would not go at all, as the oil had become thick, and it +was not until this had been removed by prolonged severe heating (baking +in the oven for several days) that it could be set going; but then it +had to be used for the thermograph, the mechanism of which was broken, +so that no registration was obtained of the humidity of the air.</p> + +<p>The resulting registrations are then as follows: from Framheim, one +set of barograms and two sets of thermograms, of which one gives the +temperature of the air and the other the temperature inside the house, +where the barometers and barograph were placed; from the Fram we have +barograms for the whole period from her leaving Christiania, in 1910, +to her arrival at Buenos Aires for the third time, in 1912.</p> + +<p>Of course, none of these registrations can be taken into account in +the provisional working out, as they will require many months' work, +which, moreover, cannot be carried out with advantage until we have +ascertained about possible changes of error in the instruments. But +occasional use has been made of them for purposes of checking, and +for supplying the only observation missing in the ten months.</p> + +<p>The meteorological station at Framheim was arranged in this way: +the barometers, barograph, and one thermograph hung inside the house; +they were placed in the kitchen, behind the door of the living-room, +which usually stood open, and thus protected them from the radiant heat +of the range. A thermometer, a hygrometer, and the other thermograph +were placed in a screen on high posts, and with louvred sides, +which stood at a distance of fifteen yards to the south-west of the +house. A little way beyond the screen, again, stood the wind-vane and +anemometer. At the end of September the screen had to be moved a few +yards to the east; the snow had drifted about it until it was only 2 +1/2 feet above the surface, whereas it ought to stand at the height +of a man. At the same time the wind-vane was moved. The screen was +constructed by Lindström from his recollection of the old Fram screen.</p> + +<p>The two mercury barometers, the Fuess normal, and the Adie standard +barometer, reached Framheim in good condition; as has been said, they +were hung in the kitchen, and the four pocket aneroids were hung by +the side of them. All six were read at the daily observations at 8 +a.m., 2 p.m., and 8 p.m. The normal barometer, the instructions for +which were missing, was used as a siphon barometer, both the mercury +levels being read, and the bottom screw being locked fast; the usual +mode of reading it, on the other hand, is to set the lower level at +zero on the scale by turning the bottom screw at every observation, +whereupon the upper level only is set and read. The Adie standard +barometer is so arranged that it is only necessary to read the summit +of the mercury. It appears that there is some difference between +the atmospheric pressure values of the two instruments, but this is +chiefly due to the difficult and extremely variable conditions of +temperature. There may be a difference of as much as five degrees +(Centigrade) between the thermometers of the two barometers, in +spite of their hanging side by side at about the same height from +the floor. On the other hand, the normal barometer is not suited to +daily observations, especially in the Polar regions, and the double +reading entails greater liability of error. That the Adie barometer +is rather less sensitive than the other is of small importance, as +the variations of atmospheric pressure at Framheim were not very great.</p> + +<p>In the provisional working out, therefore, the readings of the Adie +barometer alone have been used; those of the normal barometer, +however, have been experimentally reduced for the first and last +months, April and January. The readings have been corrected for the +temperature of the mercury, the constant error of the instrument, +and the variation of the force of gravity from the normal in latitude +45º. The reduction to sea-level, on the other hand, has not been made; +it amounts to 1.1 millimetre at an air temperature of -10º Centigrade.</p> + +<p>The observations show that the pressure of the atmosphere is +throughout low, the mean for the ten months being 29.07 inches +(738.6 millimetres). It is lower in winter than in summer, July +having 28.86 inches (733.1 millimetres), and December 29.65 inches +(753.3 millimetres), as the mean for the month, a difference of +20.2 millimetres. The highest observation was 30.14 inches (765.7 +millimetres) on December 9, and the lowest 28.02 inches (711.7 +millimetres) on May 24, 1911; difference, 54 millimetres.</p> + +<p>Air Temperature and Thermometers.</p> + +<p>As has already been stated, minimum thermometers and mercury sling +thermometers were wanting. For the first six months only toluene sling +thermometers were used. Sling thermometers are short, narrow glass +thermometers, with a strong loop at the top; before being read they +are briskly swung round at the end of a string about half a yard long, +or in a special apparatus for the purpose. The swinging brings the +thermometer in contact with a great volume of air, and it therefore +gives the real temperature of the air more readily than if it were +hanging quietly in the screen.</p> + +<p>From October 1 a mercury thermometer was also placed in the screen, +though only one divided to whole degrees; those divided to fifths +of a degree would, of course, have given a surer reading. But it is +evident, nevertheless, that the toluene thermometers used are correct +to less than half a degree (Centigrade), and even this difference +may no doubt be explained by one thermometer being slung while the +other was fixed. The observations are, therefore, given without any +corrections. Only at the end of December was exclusive use made of +mercury thermometers. The maximum thermometers taken proved of so +little use that they were soon discarded; the observations have not +been included here.</p> + +<p>It was due to a misunderstanding that mercury thermometers were +not also used in the first half-year, during those periods when +the temperature did not go below the freezing-point of mercury +(-89º C.). But the toluene thermometers in use were old and good +instruments, so that the observations for this period may also be +regarded as perfectly reliable. Of course, all the thermometers had +been carefully examined at the Norwegian Meteorological Institute, and +at Framheim the freezing-point was regularly tested in melting snow.</p> + +<p>The results show that the winter on the Barrier was about 19.º +C. (21.6º F.) colder than it usually is in McMurdo Sound, where +the British expeditions winter. The coldest month is August, with a +mean temperature of -44.5º C. (-48.1º F.); on fourteen days during +this month the temperature was below -50º C. (-58º F.). The lowest +temperature occurred on August 13: -58.5º C. (-73.3º F.); the warmest +day in that month had a temperature of -24º C. (-11.2º F.).</p> + +<p>In October spring begins to approach, and in December the temperature +culminates with a mean for the month of -6.6º C. (+2O.lº F.), and a +highest maximum temperature of -0.2º C. (+31.6º F.). The temperature +was thus never above freezing-point, even in the warmest part of +the summer.</p> + +<p>The daily course of the temperature -- warmest at noon and coldest +towards morning -- is, of course, not noticeable in winter, as the +sun is always below the horizon. But in April there is a sign of it, +and from September onward it is fairly marked, although the difference +between 2 p.m. and the mean of 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. only amounts to 2º +C. in the monthly mean.</p> + +<p>Humidity of the Air.</p> + +<p>For determining the relative humidity of the air the expedition +had two of Russeltvedt's torsion hygrometers. This instrument has +been accurately described in the Meteorologische Zeitschrift, 1908, +p. 396. It has the advantage that there are no axles or sockets to +be rusted or soiled, or filled with rime or drift-snow.</p> + +<p>Fig. 1.</p> + +<p>Fig. 2.</p> + +<p>Fig. 3.</p> + +<p>The two horsehairs (h, h') that are used, are stretched tight by a +torsion clamp (Z, Z', and L), which also carries the pointer; the +position of the pointer varies with the length of the hairs, which, +again, is dependent on the degree of humidity of the air. (See the +diagrams.) These instruments have been in use in Norway for several +years, especially at inland stations, where the winter is very cold, +and they have shown themselves superior to all others in accuracy and +durability; but there was no one on the Fram who knew anything about +them, and there is therefore a possibility that they were not always +in such good order as could be wished. On September 10, especially, +the variations are very remarkable; but on October 13 the second +instrument, No. 12, was hung out, and there can be no doubt of the +correctness of the subsequent observations.</p> + +<p>It is seen that the relative humidity attains its maximum in winter, +in the months of July and August, with a mean of 90 per cent. The +driest air occurs in the spring month of November, with a mean of +73 per cent. The remaining months vary between 79 and 86 per cent., +and the mean of the whole ten months is 82 per cent. The variations +quoted must be regarded as very small. On the other hand, the figures +themselves are very high, when the low temperatures are considered, +and this is doubtless the result of there being open water not very +far away. The daily course of humidity is contrary to the course of the +temperature, and does not show itself very markedly, except in January.</p> + +<p>The absolute humidity, or partial pressure of aqueous vapour in the +air, expressed in millimetres in the height of the mercury in the +same way as the pressure of the atmosphere, follows in the main the +temperature of the air. The mean value for the whole period is only 0.8 +millimetre (0.031 inch); December has the highest monthly mean with +2.5 millimetres (0.097 inch), August the lowest with 0.1 millimetre +(0.004 inch). The absolutely highest observation occurred on December +5 with 4.4 millimetres (0.173 inch), while the lowest of all is less +than 0.05 millimetre, and can therefore only be expressed by 0.0; +it occurred frequently in the course of the winter.</p> + +<p> +Precipitation.</p> + +<p>Any attempt to measure the quantity of precipitation -- even +approximately -- had to be abandoned. Snowfall never occurred in +still weather, and in a wind there was always a drift that entirely +filled the gauge. On June 1 and 7 actual snowfall was observed, +but it was so insignificant that it could not be measured; it was, +however, composed of genuine flakes of snow. It sometimes happened +that precipitation of very small particles of ice was noticed; +these grains of ice can be seen against the observation lantern, +and heard on the observer's headgear; but on returning to the house, +nothing can be discovered on the clothing. Where the sign for snow +occurs in the column for Remarks, it means drift; these days are +included among days of precipitation. Sleet was observed only once, +in December. Rain never.</p> + +<p>Cloudiness.</p> + +<p>The figures indicate how many tenths of the visible heavens are covered +by clouds (or mist). No instrument is used in these observations; +they depend on personal estimate. They had to be abandoned during +the period of darkness, when it is difficult to see the sky.</p> + +<p>Wind.</p> + +<p>For measuring the velocity of the wind the expedition had a cup +and cross anemometer, which worked excellently the whole time. It +consists of a horizontal cross with a hollow hemisphere on each of +the four arms of the cross; the openings of the hemispheres are all +turned towards the same side of the cross-arms, and the cross can +revolve with a minimum of friction on a vertical axis at the point of +junction. The axis is connected with a recording mechanism, which is +set in motion at each observation and stopped after a lapse of half a +minute, when the figure is read off. This figure denotes the velocity +of the wind in metres per second, and is directly transferred to the +tables (here converted into feet per second).</p> + +<p>The monthly means vary between 1.9 metres (6.2 feet) in May, and 5.5 +metres (18 feet) in October; the mean for the whole ten months is 3.4 +metres (11.1 feet) per second. These velocities may be characterized +as surprisingly small; and the number of stormy days agrees with +this low velocity. Their number for the whole period is only 11, +fairly evenly divided between the months; there are, however, five +stormy days in succession in the spring months October and November.</p> + +<p>The frequency of the various directions of the wind has been added +up for each month, and gives the same characteristic distribution +throughout the whole period. As a mean we have the following table, +where the figures give the percentage of the total number of wind +observations:</p> + +<p> +N. +N.E. +E. +S.E. +S. +S.W. +W. +N.W. +Calm.</p> + +<p>1.9 +7.8 +31.9 +6.9 +12.3 +14.3 +2.6 +1.1 +21.3</p> + +<p>Almost every third direction is E., next to which come S.W. and S. Real +S.E., on the other hand, occurs comparatively rarely. Of N., N. W., +and W. there is hardly anything. It may be interesting to see what +the distribution is when only high winds are taken into account -- +that is, winds with a velocity of 10 metres (32.8 feet) per second +or more. We then have the following table of percentages:</p> + +<p> +N. +N.E. +E. +S.E. +S. +S.W. +W. +N.W.</p> + +<p>7 +12 +51 +10 +4 +10 +2 +4</p> + +<p>Here again, E. is predominant, as half the high winds come from this +quarter. W. and N.W. together have only 6 per cent.</p> + +<p>The total number of high winds is 51, or 5.6 per cent. of the total +of wind observations.</p> + +<p>The most frequent directions of storms are also E. and N.E.</p> + +<p>The Aurora Australis.</p> + +<p>During the winter months auroral displays were frequently seen -- +altogether on sixty-five days in six months, or an average of every +third day -- but for want of apparatus no exhaustive observations +could be attempted. The records are confined to brief notes of the +position of the aurora at the times of the three daily observations.</p> + +<p>The frequency of the different directions, reckoned in percentages +of the total number of directions given, as for the wind, will be +found in the following table:</p> + +<p> +N. +N.E. +E. +S.E. +S. +S.W. +W. +N.W. +Zenith.</p> + +<p>18 +17 +16 +9 +8 +3 +8 +13 +8</p> + +<p>N. and N.E. are the most frequent, and together make up one-third of +all the directions recorded; but the nearest points on either side of +this maximum -- E. and N.W. -- are also very frequent, so that these +four points together -- N.W., N., N.E., E. -- have 64 per cent. of +the whole. The rarest direction is S.W., with only 3 per cent. (From +the position of the Magnetic Pole in relation to Framheim, one would +rather have expected E. to be the most frequent, and W. the rarest, +direction.) Probably the material before us is somewhat scanty for +establishing these directions.</p> + +<p> +Meteorological Record from Framheim.</p> + +<p>April, 1911 -- January, 1912.</p> + +<p>Height above sea-level, 36 feet. Gravity correction, .072 inch at +29.89 inches. Latitude, 78º 38' S. Longitude, 163º 37' W.</p> + +<p>Explanation of Signs in the Tables.</p> + +<p>SNOW signifies snow.</p> + +<p>MIST ,, mist.</p> + +<p>AURORA ,, aurora.</p> + +<p>RINGSUN ,, large ring round the sun.</p> + +<p>RINGMOON ,, ,, ,, moon.</p> + +<p>STORM ,, storm</p> + +<p>sq. ,, squalls</p> + +<p>a. ,, a.m.</p> + +<p>p. ,, p.m.</p> + +<p>I., II, III., signify respectively 8 a.m., 2 p.m., and 8 p.m.</p> + +<p>º (e.g., SNOWº) signifies slight.</p> + +<p>2 (e.g., SNOW2) ,, heavy.</p> + +<p>Times of day are always in local time.</p> + +<p>The date was not changed on crossing the 180th meridian</p> + +<p></p> + +<h2> +APPENDIX III: <a name="appiii"></a> +Geology</h2> + +<p>Provisional Remarks on the Examination of the Geological Specimens +Brought by Roald Amundsen's South Polar Expedition from the Antarctic +Continent (South Victoria Land and King Edward VII. Land). By +J. Schetelig, Secretary of the Mineralogical Institute of Christiania +University</p> + +<p>The collection of specimens of rocks brought back by Mr. Roald +Amundsen from his South Polar expedition has been sent by him to the +Mineralogical Institute of the University, the Director of which, +Professor W. C. Brögger, has been good enough to entrust to me the +work of examining this rare and valuable material, which gives us +information of the structure of hitherto untrodden regions.</p> + +<p>Roald Amundsen himself brought back altogether about twenty specimens +of various kinds of rock from Mount Betty, which lies in lat. 85º 8' +S. Lieutenant Prestrud's expedition to King Edward VII. Land collected +in all about thirty specimens from Scott's Nunatak, which was the only +mountain bare of snow that this expedition met with on its route. A +number of the stones from Scott's Nunatak were brought away because +they were thickly overgrown with lichens. These specimens of lichens +have been sent to the Botanical Museum of the University.</p> + +<p>A first cursory examination of the material was enough to show +that the specimens from Mount Betty and Scott's Nunatak consist +exclusively of granitic rocks and crystalline schists. There were +no specimens of sedimentary rocks which, by possibly containing +fossils, might have contributed to the determination of the age of +these mountains. Another thing that was immediately apparent was the +striking agreement that exists between the rocks from these two places, +lying so far apart. The distance from Mount Betty to Scott's Nunatak +is between seven and eight degrees of latitude.</p> + +<p>I have examined the specimens microscopically.</p> + +<p>From Mount Betty there are several specimens of white granite, with +dark and light mica; it has a great resemblance to the white granites +from Sogn, the Dovre district, and Nordland, in Norway. There is one +very beautiful specimen of shining white, fine-grained granite aplite, +with small, pale red garnets. These granites show in their exterior +no sign of pressure structure. The remaining rocks from Mount Betty +are gneissic granite, partly very rich in dark mica, and gneiss +(granitic schist); besides mica schist, with veins of quartz.</p> + +<p>From Scott's Nunatak there are also several specimens of white granite, +very like those from Mount Betty. The remaining rocks from here are +richer in lime and iron, and show a series of gradual transitions +from micacious granite, through grano-diorite to quartz diorite, +with considerable quantities of dark mica, and green hornblende. In +one of the specimens the quantity of free quartz is so small that the +rock is almost a quartz-free diorite. The quartz diorites are: some +medium-grained, some coarse-grained (quartz-diorite-pegmatite), with +streaks of black mica. The schistose rocks from Scott's Nunatak are +streaked, and, in part, very fine-grained quartz diorite schists. Mica +schists do not occur among the specimens from this mountain.</p> + +<p>Our knowledge of the geology of South Victoria Land is mainly due to +Scott's expedition of 1901 -- 1904, with H. T. Ferrar as geologist, +and Shackleton's expedition of 1907 -- 08, with Professor David +and R. Priestley as geologists. According to the investigations of +these expeditions, South Victoria Land consists of a vast, ancient +complex of crystalline schists and granitic rocks, large extents +of which are covered by a sandstone formation ("Beacon Sandstone," +Ferrar), on the whole horizontally bedded, which is at least 1,500 feet +thick, and in which Shackleton found seams of coal and fossil wood (a +coniferous tree). This, as it belongs to the Upper Devonian or Lower +Carboniferous, determines a lower limit for the age of the sandstone +formation. Shackleton also found in lat. 85º 15' S. beds of limestone, +which he regards as underlying and being older than the sandstone. In +the limestone, which is also on the whole horizontally bedded, +only radiolaria have been found. The limestone is probably of older +Palæozoic age (? Silurian). It is, therefore, tolerably certain that +the underlying older formation of gneisses, crystalline schists and +granites, etc., is of Archæan age, and belongs to the foundation rocks.</p> + +<p>Volcanic rocks are only found along the coast of Ross Sea and on +a range of islands parallel to the coast. Shackleton did not find +volcanic rocks on his ascent from the Barrier on his route towards +the South Pole.</p> + +<p>G. T. Prior, who has described the rocks collected by Scott's +expedition, gives the following as belonging to the complex +of foundation rocks: gneisses, granites, diorites, banatites, +and other eruptive rocks, as well as crystalline limestone, with +chondrodite. Professor David and R. Priestley, the geologists of +Shackleton's expedition, refer to Ferrar's and Prior's description +of the foundation rocks, and state that according to their own +investigations the foundation rocks consist of banded gneiss, gneissic +granite, grano-diorite, and diorite rich in sphene, besides coarse +crystalline limestone as enclosures in the gneiss.</p> + +<p>This list of the most important rocks belonging to the foundation +series of the parts of South Victoria Land already explored agrees so +closely with the rocks from Mount Betty and Scott's Nunatak, that there +can be no doubt that the latter also belong to the foundation rocks.</p> + +<p>From the exhaustive investigations carried out by Scott's and +Shackleton's expeditions it appears that South Victoria Land is a +plateau land, consisting of a foundation platform, of great thickness +and prominence, above which lie remains, of greater or less extent, +of Palæozoic formations, horizontally bedded. From the specimens of +rock brought home by Roald Amundsen's expedition it is established that +the plateau of foundation rocks is continued eastward to Amundsen's +route to the South Pole, and that King Edward VII. Land is probably +a northern continuation, on the eastern side of Ross Sea, of the +foundation rock plateau of South Victoria Land.</p> + +<p>Christiania,</p> + +<p>September 26, 1912.</p> + +<h2> +APPENDIX IV:<a name="appiv"></a> +The Astronomical Observations at the Pole</h2> + +<p>Note by Professor H. Geelmuyden</p> + +<p>Christiania,</p> + +<p>September 16, 1912.</p> + +<p>When requested this summer to receive the astronomical observations +from Roald Amundsen's South Pole Expedition, for the purpose of working +them out, I at once put myself in communication with Mr. A. Alexander +(a mathematical master) to get him to undertake this work, while +indicating the manner in which the materials could be best dealt +with. As Mr. Alexander had in a very efficient manner participated in +the working out of the observations from Nansen's Fram Expedition, +and since then had calculated the astronomical observations from +Amundsen's Gjöa Expedition, and from Captain Isachsen's expeditions +to Spitzbergen, I knew by experience that he was not only a reliable +and painstaking calculator, but that he also has so full an insight +into the theoretical basis, that he is capable of working without +being bound down by instructions.</p> + +<p>(Signed) H. Geelmuyden,</p> + +<p>Professor of Astronomy,</p> + +<p>The Observatory of the University,</p> + +<p>Christiania.</p> + +<p></p> + +<p>Mr. Alexander's Report.</p> + +<p>Captain Roald Amundsen,</p> + +<p>At your request I shall here give briefly the result of my examination +of the observations from your South Pole Expedition. My calculations +are based on the longitude for Framheim given to me by Lieutenant +Prestrud, 163º 37' W. of Greenwich. He describes this longitude +as provisional, but only to such an extent that the final result +cannot differ appreciably from it. My own results may also be somewhat +modified on a final treatment of the material. But these modifications, +again, will only be immaterial, and, in any case, will not affect +the result of the investigations given below as to the position of +the two Polar stations.</p> + +<p>At the first Polar station, on December 15, 1911, eighteen altitudes of +the sun were taken in all with each of the expedition's sextants. The +latitude calculated from these altitudes is, on an average of both +sextants, very near 89º 54', with a mean error of +-2'. The +longitude calculated from the altitudes is about +7t (105º) E.; but, as might be expected in this high latitude, +the aberrations are very considerable. We may, however, assume with +great certainty that this station lies between lat. 89º 52' and 89º +56' S., and between long. 90º and 120º E.</p> + +<p>The variation of the compass at the first Polar station was determined +by a series of bearings of the sun. This gives us the absolute +direction of the last day's line of route. The length of this line +was measured as five and a half geographical miles. With the help of +this we are able to construct for Polheim a field of the same form +and extent as that within which the first Polar station must lie.</p> + +<p>At Polheim, during a period of twenty-four hours (December 16 -- +17), observations were taken every hour with one of the sextants. The +observations show an upper culmination altitude of 28º 19.2', and a +resulting lower culmination altitude of 23º 174'. These combining the +above two altitudes, an equal error on the same side in each will +have no influence on the result. The combination gives a latitude +of 89º 58.6'. That this result must be nearly correct is confirmed +by the considerable displacement of the periods of culmination +which is indicated by the series of observations, and which in the +immediate neighbourhood of the Pole is caused by the change in the +sun's declination. On the day of the observations this displacement +amounted to thirty minutes in 89º 57', forty-six minutes in 89º 58', +and over an hour and a half in 89º 59'. The upper culmination occurred +so much too late, and the lower culmination so much too early. The +interval between these two periods was thus diminished by double the +amount of the displacements given. Now the series of observations +shows that the interval between the upper and the lower culmination +amounted at the most to eleven hours; the displacement of the periods +of culmination was thus at least half an hour. It results that Polheim +must lie south of 89º 57', while at the same time we may assume that +it cannot lie south of 89º 59'. The moments of culmination could, +of course, only be determined very approximately, and in the same way +the observations as a whole are unserviceable for the determination +of longitude. It may, however, be stated with some certainty that +the longitude must be between 30º and 75º E. The latitude, as already +mentioned, is between 89º 57' and 89º 59', and the probable position +of Polheim may be given roughly as lat. 89º 58.5' S., and long. 60º E.</p> + +<p>On the accompanying sketch-chart the letters abcd indicate the field +within which the first Polar station must lie; ABCD is the field which +is thereby assigned to Polheim; EFGH the field within which Polheim +must lie according to the observations taken on the spot itself; P +the probable position of Polheim, and L the resulting position of the +first Polar station. The position thus assigned to the latter agrees as +well as could be expected with the average result of the observations +of December 15. According to this, Polheim would be assumed to lie +one and a half geographical miles, or barely three kilometres, from +the South Pole, and certainly not so much as six kilometres from it.</p> + +<p>From your verbal statement I learn that Helmer Hanssen and Bjaaland +walked four geographical miles from Polheim in the direction taken to +be south on the basis of the observations. On the chart the letters +efgh give the field within which the termination of their line of route +must lie. It will be seen from this that they passed the South Pole +at a distance which, on the one hand, can hardly have been so great +as two and a half kilometres, and on the other, hardly so great as two +kilometres; that, if the assumed position of Polheim be correct, they +passed the actual Pole at a distance of between 400 and 600 metres; +and that it is very probable that they passed the actual Pole at a +distance of a few hundred metres, perhaps even less.</p> + +<p>I am, etc.,</p> + +<p>(Signed) Anton Alexander.</p> + +<p>Christiania,</p> + +<p>September 22, 1912.</p> + + +<h2>APPENDIX V: <a name="appv"></a> +Oceanography</h2> + +<p>Remarks of the Oceanographical Investigation carried out by the "Fram" +in the North Atlantic in 1910 and in the South Atlantic in 1911. By +Professor Björn Helland-Hansen and Professor Fridtjof Nansen</p> + +<p>In the earliest ages of the human race the sea formed an absolute +barrier. Men looked out upon its immense surface, now calm and +bright, now lashed by storms, and always mysteriously attractive; +but they could not grapple with it. Then they learned to make boats; +at first small, simple craft, which could only be used when the sea +was calm. But by degrees the boats were made larger and more perfect, +so that they could venture farther out and weather a storm if it +came. In antiquity the peoples of Europe accomplished the navigation +of the Mediterranean, and the boldest maritime nation was able to +sail round Africa and find the way to India by sea. Then came voyages +to the northern waters of Europe, and far back in the Middle Ages +enterprising seamen crossed from Norway to Iceland and Greenland and +the north-eastern part of North America. They sailed straight across +the North Atlantic, and were thus the true discoverers of that ocean.</p> + +<p>Even in antiquity the Greek geographers had assumed that the greater +part of the globe was covered by sea, but it was not till the beginning +of the modern age that any at all accurate idea arose of the extent of +the earth's great masses of water. The knowledge of the ocean advanced +with more rapid steps than ever before. At first this knowledge +only extended to the surface, the comparative area of oceans, their +principal currents, and the general distribution of temperature. In +the middle of the last century Maury collected all that was known, +and drew charts of the currents and winds for the assistance of +navigation. This was the beginning of the scientific study of the +oceanic waters; at that time the conditions below the surface were +still little known. A few investigations, some of them valuable, had +been made of the sea fauna, even at great depths, but very little +had been done towards investigating the physical conditions. It +was seen, however, that there was here a great field for research, +and that there were great and important problems to be solved; and +then, half a century ago, the great scientific expeditions began, +which have brought an entire new world to our knowledge.</p> + +<p>It is only forty years since the Challenger sailed on the first +great exploration of the oceans. Although during these forty years +a quantity of oceanographical observations has been collected with a +constant improvement of methods, it is, nevertheless, clear that our +knowledge of the ocean is still only in the preliminary stage. The +ocean has an area twice as great as that of the dry land, and it +occupies a space thirteen times as great as that occupied by the +land above sea-level. Apart from the great number of soundings for +depth alone, the number of oceanographical stations -- with a series +of physical and biological observations at various depths -- is very +small in proportion to the vast masses of water; and there are still +extensive regions of the ocean of the conditions of which we have +only a suspicion, but no certain knowledge. This applies also to the +Atlantic Ocean, and especially to the South Atlantic.</p> + +<p>Scientific exploration of the ocean has several objects. It seeks to +explain the conditions governing a great and important part of our +earth, and to discover the laws that control the immense masses of +water in the ocean. It aims at acquiring a knowledge of its varied +fauna and flora, and of the relations between this infinity of +organisms and the medium in which they live. These were the principal +problems for the solution of which the voyage of the Challenger and +other scientific expeditions were undertaken. Maury's leading object +was to explain the conditions that are of practical importance to +navigation; his investigations were, in the first instance, applied +to utilitarian needs.</p> + +<p>But the physical investigation of the ocean has yet another very +important bearing. The difference between a sea climate and a +continental climate has long been understood; it has long been known +that the sea has an equalizing effect on the temperature of the air, +so that in countries lying near the sea there is not so great a +difference between the heat of summer and the cold of winter as on +continents far from the sea-coast. It has also long been understood +that the warm currents produce a comparatively mild climate in high +latitudes, and that the cold currents coming from the Polar regions +produce a low temperature. It has been known for centuries that the +northern arm of the Gulf Stream makes Northern Europe as habitable +as it is, and that the Polar currents on the shores of Greenland and +Labrador prevent any richer development of civilization in these +regions. But it is only recently that modern investigation of the +ocean has begun to show the intimate interaction between sea and +air; an interaction which makes it probable that we shall be able to +forecast the main variations in climate from year to year, as soon +as we have a sufficiently large material in the shape of soundings.</p> + +<p>In order to provide new oceanographical material by modern methods, +the plan of the Fram expedition included the making of a number of +investigations in the Atlantic Ocean. In June, 1910, the Fram went +on a trial cruise in the North Atlantic to the west of the British +Isles. Altogether twenty-five stations were taken in this region +during June and July before the Fram's final departure from Norway.</p> + +<p>The expedition then went direct to the Antarctic and landed the shore +party on the Barrier. Neither on this trip nor on the Fram's subsequent +voyage to Buenos Aires were any investigations worth mentioning made, +as time was too short; but in June, 1911, Captain Nilsen took the +Fram on a cruise in the South Atlantic and made in all sixty valuable +stations along two lines between South America and Africa.</p> + +<p>An exhaustive working out of the very considerable material collected +on these voyages has not yet been possible. We shall here only attempt +to set forth the most conspicuous results shown by a preliminary +examination.</p> + +<p>Besides the meteorological observations and the collection of +plankton -- in fine silk tow-nets -- the investigations consisted +of taking temperatures and samples of water at different depths The +temperatures below the surface were ascertained by the best modern +reversing thermometers (Richter's); these thermometers are capable +of giving the temperature to within a few hundredths of a degree at +any depth. Samples of water were taken for the most part with Ekman's +reversing water-sampler; it consists of a brass tube, with a valve at +each end. When it is lowered the valves are open, so that the water +passes freely through the tube. When the apparatus has reached the +depth from which a sample is to be taken, a small slipping sinker +is sent down along the line. When the sinker strikes the sampler, +it displaces a small pin, which holds the brass tube in the position +in which the valves remain open. The tube then swings over, and this +closes the valves, so that the tube is filled with a hermetically +enclosed sample of water. These water samples were put into small +bottles, which were afterwards sent to Bergen, where the salinity of +each sample was determined. On the first cruise, in June and July, +1910, the observations on board were carried out by Mr. Adolf Schröer, +besides the permanent members of the expedition. The observations +in the South Atlantic in the following year were for the most part +carried out by Lieutenant Gjertsen and Kutschin.</p> + +<p>The Atlantic Ocean is traversed by a series of main currents, which +are of great importance on account of their powerful influence +on the physical conditions of the surrounding regions of sea and +atmosphere. By its oceanographical investigations in 1910 and 1911 +the Fram expedition has made important contributions to our knowledge +of many of these currents. We shall first speak of the investigations +in the North Atlantic in 1910, and afterwards of those in the South +Atlantic in 1911.</p> + +<p>Investigations in the North Atlantic in June and July, 1910.</p> + +<p>The waters of the Northern Atlantic Ocean, to the north of lats. 80º +and 40º N., are to a great extent in drifting motion north-eastward +and eastward from the American to the European side. This drift is +what is popularly called the Gulf Stream. To the west of the Bay +of Biscay the eastward flow of water divides into two branches, one +going south-eastward and southward, which is continued in the Canary +Current, and the other going north-eastward and northward outside +the British Isles, which sends comparatively warm streams of water +both in the direction of Iceland and past the Shetlands and Faroes +into the Norwegian Sea and north-eastward along the west coast of +Norway. This last arm of the Gulf Stream in the Norwegian Sea has +been well explored during the last ten or fifteen years; its course +and extent have been charted, and it has been shown to be subject to +great variations from year to year, which again appear to be closely +connected with variations in the development and habitat of several +important species of fish, such as cod, coal-fish, haddock, etc., as +well as with variations in the winter climate of Norway, the crops, +and other important conditions. By closely following the changes in +the Gulf Stream from year to year, it looks as if we should be able +to predict a long time in advance any great changes in the cod and +haddock fisheries in the North Sea, as well as variations in the +winter climate of North-Western Europe.</p> + +<p>But the cause or causes of these variations in the Gulf Stream are at +present unknown. In order to solve this difficult question we must be +acquainted with the conditions in those regions of the Atlantic itself +through which this mighty ocean current flows, before it sends its +waters into the Norwegian Sea. But here we are met by the difficulty +that the investigations that have been made hitherto are extremely +inadequate and deficient; indeed, we have no accurate</p> + +<p>(Fig. 1. -- Hypothetical Representation of the Surface Currents in +the Northern Atlantic in April.</p> + +<p>After Nansen, in the Internationale Revue der gesamten Hydrobiologie +and Hydrographie, 1912.)</p> + +<p>knowledge even of the course and extent of the current in this ocean. A +thorough investigation of it with the improved methods of our time +is therefore an inevitable necessity.</p> + +<p>As the Gulf Stream is of so great importance to Northern Europe in +general, but especially to us Norwegians, it was not a mere accident +that three separate expeditions left Norway in the same year, 1910 -- +Murray and Hjort's expedition in the Michael Sars, Amundsen's trial +trip in the Fram, and Nansen's voyage in the gunboat Frithjof -- +all with the object of investigating the conditions in the North +Atlantic. The fact that on these three voyages observations were +made approximately at the same time in different parts of the +ocean increases their value in a great degree, since they can thus +be directly compared; we are thus able to obtain, for instance, +a reliable survey of the distribution of temperature and salinity, +and to draw important conclusions as to the extent of the currents +and the motion of the masses of water.</p> + +<p>Amundsen's trial trip in the Fram and Nansen's voyage in the Frithjof +were made with the special object of studying the Gulf Stream in +the ocean to the west of the British Isles, and by the help of these +investigations it is now possible to chart the current and the extent +of the various volumes of water at different depths in this region +at that time.</p> + +<p>A series of stations taken within the same region during Murray +and Hjort's expedition completes the survey, and provides valuable +material for comparison.</p> + +<p>After sailing from Norway over the North Sea, the Fram passed through +the English Channel in June, 1910, and the first station was taken on +June 20, to the south of Ireland, in lat. 50º 50' N. and long. 10º +15' W., after which thirteen stations were taken to the westward, +to lat. 58º 16' N. and long. 17º 50' W., where the ship was on June +27. Her course then went in a northerly direction to lat. 57º 59' +N. and long. 15º 8' W., from which point a section of eleven stations +(Nos. 15 -- 25) was made straight across the Gulf Stream to the bank +on the north of Scotland, in lat. 59º 88' N. and long. 4º 44' W. The +voyage and the stations are represented in Fig. 2. Temperatures and +samples of water were taken at all the twenty-four stations at the +following depths: surface, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 75, 100, 150, 200, +300, 400, and 500 metres (2.7, 5.4, 10.9, 16.3, 21.8, 27.2, 40.8, +54.5, 81.7, 109, 163.5, 218, and 272.5 fathoms) -- or less, where +the depth was not so great.</p> + +<p>The Fram's southerly section, from Station 1 to 13 (see Fig. 3) +is divided into two parts at Station 10, on the Porcupine Bank, +south-west of Ireland. The eastern part, between Stations 1 and 10, +extends over to the bank south of Ireland, while the three stations +of the western part lie in the deep sea west of the Porcupine Bank.</p> + +<p>[Fig. 2 and caption: Fig. 2. -- The "Fram's" Route from June 20 +to July 7, 1910 (given in an unbroken line -- the figures denote +the stations).</p> + +<p>The dotted line gives the Frithjof's route, and the squares give five +of the Michael Sars's stations.]</p> + +<p>In both parts of this section there are, as shown in Fig. 3, two great +volumes of water, from the surface down to depths greater than 500 +metres, which have salinities between 35.4 and 35.5 per mille. They +have also comparatively high temperatures; the isotherm for 10º +C. goes down to a depth of about 500 metres in both these parts.</p> + +<p>It is obvious that both these comparatively salt and warm volumes +of water belong to the Gulf Stream. The more westerly of them, at +Stations 11 and 12, and in part 13, in the deep sea to the west of +the Porcupine Bank, is probably in motion towards the north-east +along the outside of this bank and then into Rockall Channel -- +between Rockall Bank and the bank to the west of the</p> + +<p>[Fig. 3 and caption: Fig. 3. -- Temperature and Salinity in the +"Fram's" Southern Section, June, 1910.]</p> + +<p>British Isles -- where a corresponding volume of water, with a somewhat +lower salinity, is found again in the section which was taken a few +weeks later by the Frithjof from Ireland to the west-north-west +across the Rockall Bank. This volume of water has a special interest +for us, since, as will be mentioned later, it forms the main part +of that arm of the Gulf Stream which enters the Norwegian Sea, but +which is gradually cooled on its way and mixed with fresher water, +so that its salinity is constantly decreasing. This fresher water +is evidently derived in great measure directly from precipitation, +which is here in excess of the evaporation from the surface of the sea.</p> + +<p>The volume of Gulf Stream water that is seen in the eastern part +(east of Station 10) of the southern Fram section, can only flow +north-eastward to a much less extent, as the Porcupine Bank is +connected with the bank to the west of Ireland by a submarine ridge +(with depths up to about 300 metres), which forms a great obstacle +to such a movement.</p> + +<p>The two volumes of Gulf Stream water in the Fram's southern section of +1910 are divided by a volume of water, which lies over the Porcupine +Bank, and has a lower salinity and also a somewhat lower average +temperature. On the bank to the south of Ireland (Stations 1 and 2) +the salinity and average temperature are also comparatively low. The +fact that the water on the banks off the coast has lower salinities, +and in part lower temperatures, than the water outside in the deep sea, +has usually been explained by its being mixed with the coast water, +which is diluted with river water from the land. This explanation may +be correct in a great measure; but, of course, it will not apply to +the water over banks that lie out in the sea, far from any land. It +appears, nevertheless, on the Porcupine Bank, for instance, and, +as we shall see later, on the Rockall Bank, that the water on these +ocean banks is -- in any case in early summer -- colder and less salt +than the surrounding water of the sea. It appears from the Frithjof +section across the Rockall Bank, as well as from the two Fram sections, +that this must be due to precipitation combined with the vertical +currents near the surface, which are produced by the cooling of the +surface of the sea in the course of the winter. For, as the surface +water cools, it becomes heavier than the water immediately below, +and must then sink, while it is replaced by water from below. These +vertical currents extend deeper and deeper as the cooling proceeds in +the course of the winter, and bring about an almost equal temperature +and salinity in the upper waters of the sea during the winter, as far +down as this vertical circulation reaches. But as the precipitation +in these regions is constantly decreasing the salinity of the surface +water, this vertical circulation must bring about a diminution of +salinity in the underlying waters, with which the sinking surface +water is mixed into a homogeneous volume of water. The Frithjof +section in particular seems to show that the vertical circulation in +these regions reaches to a depth of 500 or 600 metres at the close +of the winter. If we consider, then, what must happen over a bank in +the ocean, where the depth is less than this, it is obvious that the +vertical circulation will here be prevented by the bottom from reaching +the depth it otherwise would, and there will be a smaller volume of +water to take part in this circulation and to be mixed with the cooled +and diluted surface water. But as the cooling of the surface and the +precipitation are the same there as in the surrounding regions, the +consequence must be that the whole of this volume of water over the +bank will be colder and less salt than the surrounding waters. And as +this bank water, on account of its lower temperature, is heavier than +the water of the surrounding sea, it will have a tendency to spread +itself outwards along the bottom, and to sink down along the slopes +from the sides of the bank. This obviously contributes to increase +the opposition that such banks offer to the advance of ocean currents, +even when they lie fairly deep.</p> + +<p>These conditions, which in many respects are of great importance, +are clearly shown in the two Fram sections and the Frithjof section.</p> + +<p>The Northern Fram section went from a point to the north-west of +the Rockall Bank (Station 15), across the northern end of this +bank (Station 16), and across the northern part of the wide channel +(Rockall Channel) between it and Scotland. As might be expected, both +temperature and salinity are lower in this section than in the southern +one, since in the course of their slow northward movement the waters +are cooled, especially by the vertical circulation in winter already +mentioned, and are mixed with water containing less salt, especially +precipitated water. While in the southern section the isotherm for +10º C. went down to 500 metres, it here lies at a depth of between +50 and 25 metres. In the comparatively short distance between the two +sections, the whole volume of water has been cooled between 1º and 2º +C. This represents a great quantity of warmth, and it is chiefly given +off to the air, which is thus warmed over a great area. Water contains +more than 3,000 times as much warmth as the same volume of air at the +same temperature. For example, if 1 cubic metre of water is cooled 1º, +and the whole quantity of warmth thus taken from the water is given</p> + +<p>[Fig. 4. -- Temperature and Salinity in the "Fram's" Northern Section, +July 1910]</p> + +<p>to the air, it is sufficient to warm more than 3,000 cubic metres of +air 1º, when subjected to the pressure of one atmosphere. In other +words, if the surface water of a region of the sea is cooled 1º to a +depth of 1 metre, the quantity of warmth thus taken from the sea is +sufficient to warm the air of the same region 1º up to a height of much +more than 3,000 metres, since at high altitudes the air is subjected +to less pressure, and consequently a cubic metre there contains +less air than at the sea-level. But it is not a depth of 1 metre of +the Gulf Stream that has been cooled 1º between these two sections; +it is a depth of about 500 metres or more, and it has been cooled +between 1º and 2º C. It will thus be easily understood that this loss +of warmth from the Gulf Stream must have a profound influence on the +temperature of the air over a wide area; we see how it comes about +that warm currents like this are capable of rendering the climate +of countries so much milder, as is the case in Europe; and we see +further how comparatively slight variations in the temperature of the +current from year to year must bring about considerable variations in +the climate; and how we must be in a position to predict these latter +changes when the temperature of the currents becomes the object of +extensive and continuous investigation. It may be hoped that this is +enough to show that far-reaching problems are here in question.</p> + +<p>The salinity of the Gulf Stream water decreases considerably between +the Fram's southern and northern sections. While in the former it +was in great part between 35.4 and 35.5 per mille, in the latter it +is throughout not much more than 35.3 per mille. In this section, +also, the waters of the Gulf Stream are divided by an accumulation of +less salt and somewhat colder bank water, which here lies over the +Rockall Bank (Station 16). On the west side of this bank there is +again (Station 15) salter and warmer Gulf Stream water, though not +quite so warm as on the east. From the Frithjof section, a little +farther south, it appears that this western volume of Gulf Stream +water is comparatively small. The investigations of the Fram and the +Frithjof show that the part of the Gulf Stream which penetrates into +the Norwegian Sea comes in the main through the Rockall Channel, +between the Rockall Bank and the bank to the west of the British +Isles; its width in this region is thus considerably less than was +usually supposed. Evidently this is largely due to the influence of +the earth's rotation, whereby currents in the northern hemisphere are +deflected to the right, to a greater degree the farther north they +run. In this way the ocean currents, especially in northern latitudes, +are forced against banks and coasts lying to the right of them, and +frequently follow the edges, where the coast banks slope down to the +deep. The conclusion given above, that the Gulf Stream comes through +the Rockall Channel, is of importance to future investigations; +it shows that an annual investigation of the water of this channel +would certainly contribute in a valuable way to the understanding of +the variations of the climate of Western Europe.</p> + +<p>We shall not dwell at greater length here on the results of the Fram's +oceanographical investigations in 1910. Only when the observations +then collected, as well as those of the Frithjof's and Michael Sars's +voyages, have been fully worked out shall we be able to make a complete +survey of what has been accomplished.</p> + +<p>Investigations in the South Atlantic, June to August, 1911.</p> + +<p>In the South Atlantic we have the southward Brazil Current on the +American side, and the northward Benguela Current on the African +side. In the southern part of the ocean there is a wide current flowing +from west to east in the west wind belt. And in its northern part, +immediately south of the Equator, the South Equatorial Current flows +from east to west. We have thus in the South Atlantic a vast circle of +currents, with a motion contrary to that of the hands of a clock. The +Fram expedition has now made two full sections across the central +part of the South Atlantic; these sections take in both the Brazil +Current and the Benguela Current, and they lie between the eastward +current on the south and the westward current on the north. This is +the first time that such complete sections have been obtained between +South America and Africa in this part of the ocean. And no doubt a +larger number of stations were taken on the Fram's voyage than have +been taken -- with the same amount of detail -- in the whole South +Atlantic by all previous expeditions put together.</p> + +<p>When the Fram left Buenos Aires in June, 1911, the expedition went +eastward through the Brazil Current. The first station was taken +in lat. 36º 18' S. and long. 43º 15' W.; this was on June 17. Her +course was then north-east or east until Station 32 in lat. 20º 30' +S. and long. 8º 10' E.; this station lay in the Benguela Current, +about 800 miles from the coast of Africa, and it was taken on July +22. From there she went in a gentle curve</p> + +<p>[Fig. 5 and caption]</p> + +<p>past St. Helena and Trinidad back to America. The last station (No. 60) +was taken on August 19 in the Brazil Current in lat. 24º 39' S. and +about long. 40º W.; this station lay about 200 miles south-east of +Rio de Janeiro.</p> + +<p>There was an average distance of 100 nautical miles between one station +and the next. At nearly all the stations investigations were made at +the following depths: surface, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 150, 200, 250, +300, 400, 500, 750, and 1,000 metres (2.7, 5.4, 13.6, 27.2, 54.5, +81.7, 109, 136.2, 163.5, 218, 272.5, and 545 fathoms). At one or two +of the stations observations were also taken at 1,500 and 2,000 metres +(817.5 and 1,090 fathoms).</p> + +<p>The investigations were thus carried out from about the middle of +July to the middle of August, in that part of the southern winter +which corresponds to the period between the middle of</p> + +<p>[Fig. 6]</p> + +<p>Fig. 6. -- Currents in the South Atlantic (June -- August, 1911).</p> + +<p>December and the middle of February in the northern hemisphere We must +first see what the conditions were on the surface in those regions +in the middle of the winter of 1911.</p> + +<p>It must be remembered that the currents on the two sides of the +ocean flow in opposite directions. Along the coast of Africa, we have +the Benguela Current, flowing from south to north; on the American +side the Brazil Current flows from the tropics southward. The former +current is therefore comparatively cold and the latter comparatively +warm. This is clearly seen on the chart, which shows the distribution +of temperatures and salinities on the surface. In lat. 20º S. it +was only about 17º C. off the African coast, while it was about 23º +C. off the coast of Brazil.</p> + +<p>The salinity depends on the relation between evaporation and the +addition of fresh water. The Benguela Current comes from</p> + +<p>[Fig. 7]</p> + +<p>Fig. 7. -- Salinities and Temperatures at the Surface in the South +Atlantic (June -- August, 1911) regions where the salinity is +comparatively low; this is due to the acquisition of fresh water in +the Antarctic Ocean, where the evaporation from the surface is small +and the precipitation comparatively large. A part of this fresh water +is also acquired by the sea in the form of icebergs from the Antarctic +Continent. These icebergs melt as they drift about the sea.</p> + +<p>Immediately off the African coast there is a belt where the salinity is +under 35 per mille on the surface; farther out in the Benguela Current +the salinity is for the most part between 35 and 36 per mille. As the +water is carried northward by the current, evaporation becomes greater +and greater; the air becomes comparatively warm and dry. Thereby the +salinity is raised. The Benguela Current is then continued westward in +the South Equatorial Current; a part of this afterwards turns to the +north-west, and crosses the Equator into the North Atlantic, where it +joins the North Equatorial Current. This part must thus pass through +the belt of calms in the tropics. In this region falls of rain occur, +heavy enough to decrease the surface salinity again. But the other part +of the South Equatorial Current turns southward along the coast of +Brazil, and is then given the name of the Brazil Current. The volume +of water that passes this way receives at first only small additions +of precipitation; the air is so dry and warm in this region that +the salinity on the surface rises to over 37 per mille. This will +be clearly seen on the chart; the saltest water in the whole South +Atlantic is found in the northern part of the Brazil Current. Farther +to the south in this current the salinity decreases again, as +the water is there mixed with fresher water from the South. The +River La Plata sends out enormous quantities of fresh water into +the ocean. Most of this goes northward, on account of the earth's +rotation; the effect of this is, of course, to deflect the currents +of the southern hemisphere to the left, and those of the northern +hemisphere to the right. Besides the water from the River La Plata, +there is a current flowing northward along the coast of Patagonia -- +namely, the Falkland Current. Like the Benguela Current, it brings +water with lower salinities than those of the waters farther north; +therefore, in proportion as the salt water of the Brazil Current +is mixed with the water from the River La Plata and the Falkland +Current, its salinity decreases. These various conditions give the +explanation of the distribution of salinity and temperature that is +seen in the chart.</p> + +<p>Between the two long lines of section there is a distance of +between ten and fifteen degrees of latitude. There is, therefore, +a considerable difference in temperature. In the southern section +the average surface temperature at Stations 1 to 26 (June 17 to +July 17) was 17.9º C.; in the northern section at Stations 36 to 60 +(July 26 to August 19) it was 21.6º C. There was thus a difference +of 3.7º C. If all the stations had been taken simultaneously, the +difference would have been somewhat greater; the northern section +was, of course, taken later in the winter, and the temperatures were +therefore proportionally lower than in the southern section. The +difference corresponds fairly accurately with that which Kr:ummel +has calculated from previous observations.</p> + +<p>We must now look at the conditions below the surface in that part of +the South Atlantic which was investigated by the Fram Expedition.</p> + +<p>The observations show in the first place that both temperatures and +salinities at every one of the stations give the same values from +the surface downward to somewhere between 75 and 150 metres (40.8 and +81.7 fathoms). This equalization of temperature and salinity is due to +the vertical currents produced by cooling in winter; we shall return +to it later. But below these depths the temperatures and salinities +decrease rather rapidly for some distance.</p> + +<p>The conditions of temperature at 400 metres (218 fathoms) below the +surface are shown in the next little chart. This chart is based on +the Fram Expedition, and, as regards the other parts of the ocean, on +Schott's comparison of the results of previous expeditions. It will +be seen that the Fram's observations agree very well with previous +soundings, but are much more detailed.</p> + +<p>The chart shows clearly that it is much warmer at 400 metres (218 +fathoms) in the central part of the South Atlantic than either farther +north -- nearer the Equator -- or farther south. On the Equator +there is a fairly large area where the temperature is only 7º or 8º +C. at 400 metres, whereas in lats. 2Oº to 30º S. there are large +regions where it is above 12º C.; sometimes above 13º C., or even +14ºC. South of lat. 30º S. the temperature decreases again rapidly; +in the chart no lines are drawn for temperatures below 8º C., as we +have not sufficient observations to show the course of these lines +properly. But we know that the temperature at 400 metres sinks to +about 0º C. in the Antarctic Ocean.</p> + +<p>[Fig. 8]</p> + +<p>Fig. 8. -- Temperatures (Centigrade) at a Depth of 400 Metres +(218 Fathoms).</p> + +<p>At these depths, then, we find the warmest water within the region +investigated by the Fram. If we now compare the distribution of +temperature at 400 metres with the chart of currents in the South +Atlantic, we see that the warm region lies in the centre of the great +circulation of which mention was made above. We see that there are +high temperatures on the left-hand side of the currents, and low on the +right-hand side. This, again, is an effect of the earth's rotation, for +the high temperatures mean as a rule that the water is comparatively +light, and the low that it is comparatively heavy. Now, the effect +of the earth's rotation in the southern hemisphere is that the light +(warm) water from above is forced somewhat down on the left-hand side +of the current, and that the heavy (cold) water from below is raised +somewhat. In the northern hemisphere the contrary is the case. This +explains the cold water at a depth of 400 metres on the Equator; it +also explains the fact that the water immediately off the coasts of +Africa and South America is considerably colder than farther out in the +ocean. We now have data for studying the relation between the currents +and the distribution of warmth in the volumes of water in a way which +affords valuable information as to the movements themselves. The +material collected by the Fram will doubtless be of considerable +importance in this way when it has been finally worked out.</p> + +<p>Below 400 metres (218 fathoms) the temperature further decreases +everywhere in the South Atlantic, at first rapidly to a depth +between 500 and 1,000 metres (272.5 and 545 fathoms), afterwards very +slowly. It is possible, however, that at the greatest depths it rises +a little again, but this will only be a question of hundredths, or, +in any case, very few tenths of a degree.</p> + +<p>It is known from previous investigations in the South Atlantic, that +the waters at the greatest depths, several thousand metres below the +surface, have a temperature of between 0º and 3º C. Along the whole +Atlantic, from the extreme north (near Iceland) to the extreme south, +there runs a ridge about half-way between Europe and Africa on the +one side, and the two American continents on the other. A little +to the north of the Equator there is a slight elevation across the +ocean floor between South America and Africa. Farther south (between +lats. 25º and 35º S.) another irregular ridge runs across between these +continents. We therefore have four deep regions in the South Atlantic, +two on the west (the Brazilian Deep and the Argentine Deep) and two +on the east (the West African Deep and the South African Deep). Now +it has been found that the "bottom water" in these great deeps -- the +bottom lies more than 5,000 metres (2,725 fathoms) below the surface -- +is not always the same. In the two western deeps, off South America, +the temperature is only a little above 0º C. We find about the same +temperatures in the South African Deep, and farther eastward in a +belt that is continued round the whole earth. To the south, between +this belt and Antarctica, the temperature of the great deeps is much +lower, below 0º C. But in the West African Deep the temperature is +about 2º C. higher; we find there the same temperatures of between 2º +and 2.5º C. as are found everywhere in the deepest parts of the North +Atlantic. The explanation of this must be that the bottom water in +the western part of the South Atlantic comes from the south, while +in the north-eastern part it comes from the north. This is connected +with the earth's rotation, which has a tendency to deflect currents +to the left in the southern hemisphere. The bottom water coming from +the south goes to the left -- that is, to the South American side; +that which comes from the north also goes to the left -- that is, +to the African side.</p> + +<p>The salinity also decreases from the surface downward to 600 to 800 +metres (about 300 to 400 fathoms), where it is only a little over +34 per mille, but under 34.5 per mille; lower down it rises to about +34.7 per mille in the bottom water that comes from the south, and to +about 34.9 per mille in that which comes from the North Atlantic.</p> + +<p>We mentioned that the Benguela Current is colder and less salt at the +surface than the Brazil Current. The same thing is found in those parts +of the currents that lie below the surface. This is clearly shown in +Fig. 9, which gives the distribution of temperature at Station 32 in +the Benguela Current, and at Station 60 in the Brazil Current; at the +various depths down to 500 metres (272.5 fathoms) it was between 5º +and 7º C. colder in the former than in the latter. Deeper down the +difference becomes less, and at 1,000 metres (545 fathoms) there was +only a difference of one or two tenths of a degree.</p> + +<p>Fig. 10 shows a corresponding difference in salinities; in the first +200 metres below the surface the water was about</p> + +<p>[Fig. 9.]</p> + +<p>Fig. 9. -- Temperatures at Station 32 (In the Benguela Current, July +22, 1911), and at Station 6O (In the Brazil Current, August 19, 1911).</p> + +<p>1 per mille more saline in the Brazil Current than in the Benguela +Current. Both these currents are confined to the upper waters; +the former probably goes down to a depth of about 1,000 metres (545 +fathoms), while the latter does not reach a depth of much more than 500 +metres. Below the two currents the conditions are fairly homogeneous, +and there is no difference worth mentioning in the salinities.</p> + +<p>The conditions between the surface and a depth of 1,000 metres along +the two main lines of course are clearly shown in the two sections +(Figs. 11 and l2). In these the isotherms for every second degree are +drawn in broken lines. Lines connecting points with the same salinity +(isohalins) are drawn unbroken, and, in addition, salinities above +35 per mille are shown by shading. Above is a series of figures, +giving the numbers of the stations. To understand</p> + +<p>[Fig. 10 and caption]</p> + +<p>the sections rightly it must be borne in mind that the vertical scale +is 2,000 times greater than the horizontal.</p> + +<p>Many of the conditions we have already mentioned are clearly apparent +in the sections: the small variations between the surface and a depth +of about 100 metres at each station; the decrease of temperature and +salinity as the depth increases; the high values both of temperature +and salinity in the western part as compared with the eastern. We +see from the sections how nearly the isotherms and isohalins follow +each other. Thus, where the temperature is 12º C., the water almost +invariably has a salinity very near 35 per mille. This water at 12º +C., with a salinity of 35 per mille, is found in the western part +of the area (in the Brazil Current) at a depth of 500 to 600 metres, +but in the eastern part (in the Benguela Current) no deeper than 200 +to 250 metres (109 to 136 fathoms).</p> + +<p>We see further in both sections, and especially in the southern one, +that the isotherms and isohalins often have an undulating course, +since the conditions at one station may be different from those at the +neighbouring stations. To point to one or two examples: at Station 19 +the water a few hundred metres down was comparatively warm; it was, +for instance, 12º C. at about 470 metres (256 fathoms) at this station; +while the same temperature was found at about 340 metres (185 fathoms) +at both the neighbouring stations, 18 and 20. At Station 2 it was +relatively cold, as cold as it was a few hundred metres deeper down +at Stations 1 and 3.</p> + +<p>These undulating curves of the isotherms and isohalins are familiar to +us in the Norwegian Sea, where they have been shown in most sections +taken in recent years. They may be explained in more than one way. They +may be due to actual waves, which are transmitted through the central +waters of the sea. Many things go to show that such waves may actually +occur far below the surface, in which case they must attain great +dimensions; they must, indeed, be more than 100 metres high at times, +and yet -- fortunately -- they are not felt on the surface. In the +Norwegian Sea we have frequently found these wave-like rises and +falls. Or the curves may be due to differences in the rapidity and +direction of the currents. Here the earth's rotation comes into play, +since, as mentioned above, it causes zones of water to be depressed +on one side and raised on the other; and the degree of force with +which this takes place is dependent on the rapidity of the current +and on the geographical latitude. The effect is slight in the tropics, +but great in high latitudes. This, so far as it goes, agrees with the</p> + +<p> +[Fig. 11 and captions]</p> + +<p>fact that the curves of the isotherms and isohalins are more marked +in the more southerly of our two sections than in the more northerly +one, which lies 10 or 15 degrees nearer the Equator.</p> + +<p>But the probability is that the curves are due to the formation of +eddies in the currents. In an eddy the light and warm water will be +depressed to greater depths if the eddy goes contrary to the hands +of a clock and is situated in the southern hemisphere. We appear to +have such an eddy around Station 19, for example. Around Station 2 an +eddy appears to be going the other way; that is, the same way as the +hands of a clock. On the chart of currents we have indicated some of +these eddies from the observations of the distribution of salinity +and temperature made by the Fram Expedition.</p> + +<p>While this, then, is the probable explanation of the irregularities +shown by the lines of the sections, it is not impossible that they +may be due to other conditions, such as, for instance, the submarine +waves alluded to above. Another possibility is that they may be a +consequence of variations in the rapidity of the current, produced, +for instance, by wind. The periodical variations caused by the tides +will hardly be an adequate explanation of what happens here, although +during Murray and Hjort's Atlantic Expedition in the Michael Sars (in +1910), and recently during Nansen's voyage to the Arctic Ocean in the +Veslemöy (in 1912), the existence of tidal currents in the open ocean +was proved. It may be hoped that the further examination of the Fram +material will make these matters clearer. But however this may be, it +is interesting to establish the fact that in so great and deep an ocean +as the South Atlantic very considerable variations of this kind may +occur between points which lie near together and in the same current.</p> + +<p>As we have already mentioned in passing, the observations show that +the same temperatures and salinities as are found at the surface are +continued downward almost unchanged to a depth of between 75 and 150 +metres; on an average it is about 100 metres. This is a typical winter +condition, and is due to the vertical circulation already mentioned, +which is caused by the surface water being cooled in winter, +thus becoming heavier than the water below, so that it must sink +and give place to lighter water which rises. In this way the upper +zones of water become mixed, and acquire almost equal temperatures +and salinities. It thus appears that the vertical currents reached a +depth of about 100 metres in July, 1911, in the central part of the +South Atlantic. This cooling of the water is a gain to the air, and +what happens is that not only the surface gives off warmth to the air, +but also the sub-surface waters, to as great a depth as is reached by +the vertical circulation. This makes it a question of enormous values.</p> + +<p>This state of things is clearly apparent in the sections, where +the isotherms and isohalins run vertically for some way below +the surface. It is also clearly seen when we draw the curves of +distribution of salinity and temperature at the different stations, as +we have done in the two diagrams for Stations 32 and 60 (Fig. 9). The +temperatures had fallen several degrees at the surface at the time +the Fram's investigations were made. And if we are to judge from the +general appearance of the station curves, and from the form they +usually assume in summer in these regions, we shall arrive at the +conclusion that the whole volume of water from the surface down to +a depth of 100 metres must be cooled on an average about 2º C.</p> + +<p>As already pointed out, a simple calculation gives the following: +if a cubic metre of water is cooled 1º C., and the whole quantity +of warmth thus taken from the water is given to the air, it will be +sufficient to warm more than 3,000 cubic metres of air 1º C. A few +figures will give an impression of what this means. The region lying +between lats. 15º and 35º S. and between South America and Africa -- +roughly speaking, the region investigated by the Fram Expedition -- +has an area of 13,000,000 square kilometres. We may now assume that +this part of the ocean gave off so much warmth to the air that a +zone of water 100 metres in depth was thereby cooled on an average 2º +C. This zone of water weighs about 1.5 trillion kilogrammes, and the +quantity of warmth given off thus corresponds to about 2.5 trillion +great calories.</p> + +<p>It has been calculated that the whole atmosphere of the earth +weighs 5.27 trillion kilogrammes, and it will require something +over 1 trillion great calories to warm the whole of this mass of +air 1ºC. From this it follows that the quantity of warmth which, +according to our calculation, is given off to the air from that part +of the South Atlantic lying between lats. 15º and 35º S., will be +sufficient to warm the whole atmosphere of the earth about 2º C., and +this is only a comparatively small part of the ocean. These figures +give one a powerful impression of the important part played by the +sea in relation to the air. The sea stores up warmth when it absorbs +the rays of the sun; it gives off warmth again when the cold season +comes. We may compare it with earthenware stoves, which continue to +warm our rooms long after the fire in them has gone out. In a similar +way the sea keeps the earth warm long after summer has gone and the +sun's rays have lost their power.</p> + +<p>Now it is a familiar fact that the average temperature of the air for +the whole year is a little lower than that of the sea; in winter it +is, as a rule, considerably lower. The sea endeavours to raise the +temperature of the air; therefore, the warmer the sea is, the higher +the temperature of the air will rise. It is not surprising, then, +that after several years' investigations in the Norwegian Sea we +have found that the winter in Northern Europe is milder than usual +when the water of the Norwegian Sea contains more than the average +amount of warmth. This is perfectly natural. But we ought now to be +able to go a step farther and say beforehand whether the winter air +will be warmer or colder than the normal after determining the amount +of warmth in the sea.</p> + +<p>It has thus been shown that the amount of warmth in that part of the +ocean which we call the Norwegian Sea varies from year to year. It +was shown by the Atlantic Expedition of the Michael Sars in 1910 that +the central part of the North Atlantic was considerably colder in 1910 +than in 1873, when the Challenger Expedition made investigations there; +but the temperatures in 1910</p> + +<p>[Fig. 13]</p> + +<p>Fig. 13. -- Temperatures at one of the "Fram's" and one of the +"Challenger's" Stations, to the South of the South Equatorial Current +were about the same as those of 1876, when the Challenger was on her +way back to England.</p> + +<p>We can now make similar comparisons as regards the South Atlantic. In +1876 the Challenger took a number of stations in about the same region +as was investigated by the Fram. The Challenger's Station 339 at the +end of March, 1876, lies near the point where the Fram's Station 44 +was taken at the beginning of August, 1911. Both these stations lay in +about lat. 17.5º S., approximately half-way between Africa and South +America -- that is, in the region where a relatively slack current +runs westward, to the south of the South Equatorial Current. We +can note the difference in Fig. 13, which shows the distribution +of temperature at the two stations. The Challenger's station was +taken during the autumn and the Fram's during the winter. It was +therefore over 3º C. warmer at the surface in March, 1876, than in +August, 1911. The curve for the Challenger station shows the usual +distribution of temperature immediately below the surface in summer; +the temperature falls constantly from the surface downward. At the +Fram's station we see the typical winter conditions; we there find the +same temperature from the surface to a depth of 100 metres, on account +of cooling and vertical circulation. In summer, at the beginning of +the year 1911, the temperature curve for the Fram's station would +have taken about the same form as the other curve; but it would have +shown higher temperatures, as it does in the deeper zones, from 100 +metres down to about 500 metres. For we see that in these zones it +was throughout 1º C. or so warmer in 1911 than in 1876; that is to +say, there was a much greater store of warmth in this part of the +ocean in 1911 than in 1876. May not the result of this have been +that the air in this region, and also in the east of South America +and the west of Africa, was warmer during the winter of 1911 than +during that of 1876? We have not sufficient data to be able to say +with certainty whether this difference in the amount of warmth in the +two years applied generally to the whole ocean, or only to that part +which surrounds the position of the station; but if it was general, +we ought probably to be able to find a corresponding difference in +the climate of the neighbouring regions. Between 500 and 800 metres +(272 and 486 fathoms) the temperatures were exactly the same in +both years, and at 900 and 1,000 metres (490 and 545 fathoms) there +was only a difference of two or three tenths of a degree. In these +deeper parts of the ocean the conditions are probably very similar; +we have there no variations worth mentioning, because the warming of +the surface and sub-surface waters by the sun has no effect there, +unless, indeed, the currents at these depths may vary so</p> + +<p>[Fig. 14]</p> + +<p>Fig. 14. -- Temperatures at one of the "Fram's" and one of the +"Valdivia's" Stations, in the Benguela Current. Much that there may +be a warm current one year and a cold one another year. But this is +improbable out in the middle of the ocean.</p> + +<p>In the neighbourhood of the African coast, on the other hand, it looks +as if there may be considerable variations even in the deeper zones +below 500 metres (272 fathoms). During the Valdivia Expedition in 1898 +a station (No. 82) was taken in the Benguela Current in the middle of +October, not far from the point at which the Fram's Station 31 lay. The +temperature curves from here show that it was much warmer (over 1.5º +C.) in 1898 than in 1911 in the zones between 500 and 800 metres +(272 and 486 fathoms). Probably the currents may vary considerably +here. But in the upper waters of the Benguela Current itself, from the +surface down to 150 metres, it was considerably warmer in 1911 than +in 1898; this difference corresponds to that which we found in the +previous comparison of the Challenger's and Fram's stations of 1876 +and 1911. Between 200 and 400 metres (109 and 218 fathoms) there was +no difference between 1898 and 1911; nor was there at 1,000 metres +(545 fathoms).</p> + +<p>In 1906 some investigations of the eastern part of the South Atlantic +were conducted by the Planet. In the middle of March a station was +taken (No. 25) not far from St. Helena and in the neighbourhood of the +Fram's Station 39, at the end of July, 1911. Here, also, we find great +variations; it was much warmer in 1911 than in 1906, apart from the +winter cooling by vertical circulation of the sub-surface waters. At +a depth of only 100 metres (54.5 fathoms) it was 2º C. warmer in 1911 +than in 1906; at 400 metres (218 fathoms) the difference was over 1º, +and even at 800 metres (486 fathoms) it was about 0.75º C. warmer in +1911 than in 1906. At 1,000 metres (545 fathoms) the difference was +only 0.3º.</p> + +<p>From the Planet's station we also have problems of salinity, +determined by modern methods. It appears that the salinities at the +Planet station, in any case to a depth of 400 metres, were lower, and +in part much lower, than those of the Fram Expedition. At 100 metres +the difference was even greater than 0.5 per mille; this is a great +deal in the same region of open sea. Now, it must be remembered that +the current in the neighbourhood of St. Helena may be regarded as a +continuation of the Benguela Current, which comes from the south and +has relatively low salinities. It looks, therefore, as if there were +yearly variations of salinity in these</p> + +<p> +[Fig. 15]</p> + +<p>Fig. 15. -- Temperatures at the "Planet's" Station 25, and the "Fram's" +Station 39 -- Both in the Neighbourhood of St. Helena</p> + +<p>[Fig. 16]</p> + +<p>Fig. 16. -- Salinities at the "Planet's" Station 25 (March 19, 1906) +And the "Fram's" Station 39 (July 29, 1911).</p> + +<p> +regions. This may either be due to corresponding variations in the +Benguela Current -- partly because the relation between +precipitation and evaporation may vary in different years, and partly +because there may be variations in the acquisition of less saline +water from the Antarctic Ocean. Or it may be due to the +Benguela Current in the neighbourhood of St. Helena having +a larger admixture of the warm and salt water to the west of it in +one year than in another. In either case we may expect a +relatively low salinity (as in 1906 as compared with 1911) to be +accompanied by a relatively low temperature, such as we have +found by a comparison of the Planet's observations with those of +the Fram.</p> + +<p>We require a larger and more complete material for comparison; but even +that which is here referred to shows that there may be considerable +yearly variations both in the important, relatively cold Benguela +Current, and in the currents in other parts of the South Atlantic. It +is a substantial result of the observations made on the Fram's voyage +that they give us an idea of great annual variations in so important a +region as the South Atlantic Ocean. When the whole material has been +further examined it will be seen whether it may also contribute to +an understanding of the climatic conditions of the nearest countries, +where there is a large population, and where, in consequence, a more +accurate knowledge of the variations of climate will have more than +a mere scientific interest.</p> + +<p></p> + +<p>NOTES</p> + +<p>[1] -- Fram means "forward," "out of," "through." -- Tr.</p> + +<p>[2] -- This retrospective chapter has here been greatly condensed, as +the ground is already covered, for English readers, by Dr. H. R. Mill's +"The Siege of the South Pole," Sir Ernest Shackleton's "The Heart of +the Antarctic," and other works. -- Tr.</p> + +<p>[3] -- Anniversary of the dissolution of the Union with Sweden. -- Tr.</p> + +<p>[4] -- Daengealso means "thrash." -- Tr.</p> + +<p>[5] -- Unless otherwise stated, "miles" means English statute +miles. -- Tr.</p> + +<p>[6] -- A language based on that of the country districts, as opposed +to the literary language, which is practically the same as Danish. The +maal is more closely related to Old Norse. -- Tr.</p> + +<p>[7] -- Named after Dr. Nansen's daughter. -- Tr.</p> + +<p>[8] -- A vessel sailing continuously to the eastward puts the clock +on every day, one hour for every fifteen degrees of longitude; one +sailing westward puts it back in the same way. In long. 180deg. one +of them has gone twelve hours forward, the other twelve hours back; +the difference is thus twenty-four hours. In changing the longitude, +therefore, one has to change the date, so that, in passing from east +to west longitude, one will have the same day twice over, and in +passing from west to east longitude a day must be missed.</p> + +<p>[9] -- For the benefit of those who know what a buntline on a sail is, +I may remark that besides the usual topsail buntlines we had six extra +buntlines round the whole sail, so that when it was clewed up it was, +so to speak, made fast. We got the sail clewed up without its going to +pieces, but it took us over an hour. We had to take this precaution, +of having so many buntlines, as we were short-handed.</p> + +<p>End of The Project Gutenberg Etext of The South Pole, Volumes 1 and 2 +by Roald Amundsen</p> + +<p> +</body> +</html> |