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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42309 ***
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
+      file which includes the original illustrations.
+      See 42309-h.htm or 42309-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42309/42309-h/42309-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42309/42309-h.zip)
+
+
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive. See
+      https://archive.org/details/americaj04cookrich
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+
+      The Title Page and Table of Contents for this book refer
+      to it as Volume IV. The page and chapter numbering is
+      consistent with this being the second half of the previous
+      volume (whose title page says it is Volume III but whose
+      Table of Contents refers to it as Volume II.)
+
+      Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original
+      document have been preserved. Obvious typographical errors
+      have been corrected.
+
+
+
+
+
+  [Illustration: _Brandt Lake, Adirondacks_]
+
+
+_Edition Artistique_
+
+The World's Famous Places and Peoples
+
+AMERICA
+
+by
+
+JOEL COOK
+
+In Six Volumes
+
+Volume IV.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Merrill and Baker
+New York      London
+
+THIS EDITION ARTISTIQUE OF THE WORLD'S FAMOUS PLACES AND PEOPLES IS
+LIMITED TO ONE THOUSAND NUMBERED AND REGISTERED COPIES, OF WHICH THIS
+COPY IS NO. 205
+
+Copyright, Henry T. Coates & Co., 1900
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+VOLUME IV
+
+
+                                                         PAGE
+
+     BRANDT LAKE, ADIRONDACKS                  _Frontispiece_
+
+     MONUMENT TO JONATHAN EDWARDS, STOCKBRIDGE,
+     MASS.                                                256
+
+     OLD FORT TICONDEROGA                                 290
+
+     WATKINS GLEN                                         362
+
+     IN THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, ST. LAWRENCE                412
+
+     CHAUDIÈRE FALLS, ST. LAWRENCE                        450
+
+     MONTCALM'S HEADQUARTERS, QUEBEC                      474
+
+
+
+
+A GLIMPSE OF THE BERKSHIRE HILLS.
+
+
+
+
+XI.
+
+A GLIMPSE OF THE BERKSHIRE HILLS.
+
+     Berkshire Magnificence -- Taghkanic Range -- Housatonic River
+     -- Autumnal Forest Tints -- Old Graylock -- Fitchburg Railroad
+     -- Hoosac Mountain and Tunnel -- Williamstown -- Williams
+     College -- North Adams -- Fort Massachusetts -- Adams --
+     Lanesboro -- Pittsfield -- Heart of Berkshire -- The
+     Color-Bearer -- Latimer Fugitive Slave Case -- Old Clock on the
+     Stairs -- Pontoosuc Lake -- Ononta Lake -- Berry Pond -- Lily
+     Bowl -- Ope of Promise -- Lenox -- Fanny Kemble -- Henry Ward
+     Beecher -- Mount Ephraim -- Yokun-town -- Stockbridge Bowl --
+     Lake Mahkeenac -- Nathaniel Hawthorne -- House of the Seven
+     Gables -- Oliver Wendell Holmes -- Lanier Hill -- Laurel Lake
+     -- Lee -- Stockbridge -- Field Hill -- John Sergeant --
+     Stockbridge Indians -- Jonathan Edwards -- Edwards Hall --
+     Sedgwick Family and Tombs -- Theodore Sedgwick -- Catherine
+     Maria Sedgwick -- Monument Mountain -- The Pulpit -- Ice Glen
+     -- Great Barrington -- William Cullen Bryant -- The Minister's
+     Wooing -- Kellogg Terrace -- Mrs. Hopkins-Searles -- Sheffield
+     -- Mount Everett -- Mount Washington -- Shays' Rebellion --
+     Boston Corner -- Salisbury -- Winterberg -- Bash-Bish Falls --
+     Housatonic Great Falls -- Litchfield -- Bantam Lake --
+     Birthplace of the Beechers -- Wolcott House -- Wolcottville --
+     John Brown -- Danbury -- Hat-making -- General Wooster --
+     Ansonia -- Derby -- Isaac Hull -- Robert G. Ingersoll's Tribute
+     -- Berkshire Hills and Homes.
+
+
+BERKSHIRE MAGNIFICENCE.
+
+IN ascending the Hudson River, its eastern hill-border for many miles
+was the blue and distant Taghkanic range, which encloses the
+attractive region of Berkshire. When the Indians from the Hudson
+Valley climbed over those hills they found to the eastward a
+beautiful stream, which they called the Housatonic, the "River beyond
+the Mountains." This picturesque river rises in the Berkshire hills,
+and flowing for one hundred and fifty miles southward by a winding
+course through Massachusetts and Connecticut, finally empties into
+Long Island Sound. Berkshire is the western county of Massachusetts, a
+region of exquisite loveliness that has no peer in New England,
+covering a surface about fifty miles long, extending entirely across
+the State, and about twenty miles wide. Two mountain ranges bound the
+intermediate valley, and these, with their outcroppings, make the
+noted Berkshire hills that have drawn the warmest praises from the
+greatest American poets and authors. Longfellow, Whittier, Bryant,
+Hawthorne, Beecher and many others have written their song and story,
+which are interwoven with our best literature. It is a region of
+mountain peaks and lakes, of lovely vales and delicious views, and the
+exhilarating air and pure waters, combined with the exquisite scenery,
+have made it constantly attractive. Beecher early wrote that it "is
+yet to be as celebrated as the Lake District of England, or the
+hill-country of Palestine." One writer tells of the "holiday-hills
+lifting their wreathed and crowned heads in the resplendent days of
+autumn;" another describes it as "a region of hill and valley,
+mountain and lake, beautiful rivers and laughing brooks." Miss
+Sedgwick, who journeyed thither on the railroad up the Westfield
+Valley from the Connecticut River, wrote, "We have entered Berkshire
+by a road far superior to the Appian Way. On every side are rich
+valleys and smiling hillsides, and, deep-set in their hollows, lovely
+lakes sparkle like gems." Fanny Kemble long lived at Lenox, in one of
+the most beautiful parts of the district, and she wished to be buried
+in its churchyard on the hill, saying, "I will not rise to trouble
+anyone if they will let me sleep here. I will only ask to be permitted
+once in a while to raise my head and look out upon the glorious
+scene."
+
+To these Berkshire hills the visitors go to see the brilliant autumnal
+tints of the American forests in their greatest perfection. When
+copious autumn rains have made the foliage luxuriant, much will remain
+vigorous after parts have been turned by frosts. This puts green into
+the Berkshire panorama to enhance the olives of the birch, the grayish
+pinks of the ash, the scarlets of the maple, the deep reds of the oak
+and the bright yellows of the poplar. When in such a combination,
+these make a magnificent contrast of brilliant leaf-coloring, and
+while it lasts, the mantle of purple and gold, of bright flame and
+resplendent green, with the almost dazzling yellows that cover the
+autumnal mountain slopes, give one of the richest feasts of color ever
+seen. This magnificence of the Berkshire autumn coloring inspired
+Beecher to write, "Have the evening clouds, suffused with sunset,
+dropped down and become fixed into solid forms? Have the rainbows that
+followed autumn storms faded upon the mountains and left their mantles
+there? What a mighty chorus of colors do the trees roll down the
+valleys, up the hillsides, and over the mountains!" From Williamstown
+to Salisbury the region stretches, the Taghkanic range bounding it on
+the west, and the Hoosac Mountain on the east. The northern guardian
+is double-peaked Old Graylock, the monarch of the Berkshire hills, in
+the Taghkanic range, the scarred surfaces, exposed in huge bare places
+far up their sides, showing the white marble formation of these hills.
+
+
+WILLIAMSTOWN TO PITTSFIELD.
+
+The Fitchburg railroad, coming from Troy on the Hudson to Boston,
+crosses the northern part of the district and pierces the Hoosac
+Mountain by a famous tunnel, nearly five miles long, which cost
+Massachusetts $16,000,000, the greatest railway tunnel in the United
+States. This railroad follows the charming Deerfield River Valley up
+to the mountain, from the east, and it seeks the Hudson northwestward
+down the Hoosac River, the "place of stones," passing under the shadow
+of Old Graylock, rising in solid grandeur over thirty-five hundred
+feet, the highest Massachusetts mountain, at the northwest corner of
+the State. A tower on the top gives a view all around the horizon,
+with attractive glimpses of the winding Hoosac and Housatonic
+Valleys. Nearby is Williamstown, the seat of Williams College, with
+four hundred students, its buildings being the chief feature of the
+village. President Garfield was a graduate of this College, and
+William Cullen Bryant for some time a student, writing much of his
+early poetry here. Five miles eastward is the manufacturing town of
+North Adams, with twenty thousand people, in the narrow valley of the
+Hoosac, whose current turns its mill-wheels. A short distance down the
+Hoosac, at a road crossing, was the site of old Fort Massachusetts,
+the "Thermopylæ of New England" in the early French and Indian War,
+where, in 1746, its garrison of twenty-two men held the fort two days
+against an attacking force of nine hundred, of whom they killed
+forty-seven and wounded many more, only yielding when every grain of
+powder was gone.
+
+Journeying southward up the Hoosac through its picturesque valley, the
+narrow, winding stream turns many mills, while "Old Greylock,
+cloud-girdled on his purple throne," stands guardian at its northern
+verge. There are various villages, mostly in decadence, many of their
+people having migrated, and the mills have to supplement water-power
+with steam, the drouths being frequent. Of the little town of Adams on
+the Hoosac, Susan B. Anthony was the most famous inhabitant, and in
+Lanesboro "Josh Billings," then named H. W. Shaw, was born in 1818,
+before he wandered away to become an auctioneer and humorist. The
+head of the Hoosac is a reservoir lake, made to store its waters that
+they may better serve the mills below, and almost embracing its
+sources are the branching head-streams of the Housatonic, which flows
+to the southward. This part of the intervale, being the most elevated,
+is a region of sloughs and lakes, from which the watershed tapers in
+both directions. Upon this high plateau, more than a thousand feet
+above the tidal level, is located the county-seat of Berkshire,
+Pittsfield, named in honor of William Pitt, the elder, in 1761. The
+Boston and Albany Railroad crosses the Berkshires through the town,
+and then climbing around the Hoosac range goes off down Westfield
+River to the Connecticut at Springfield. The Public Green of
+Pittsfield, located, as in all New England towns, in its centre, is
+called the "Heart of Berkshire." Upon it stands Launt Thompson's noted
+bronze statue of the "Color-Bearer," cast from cannon given by
+Congress,--a spirited young soldier in fatigue uniform, holding aloft
+the flag. This statue is reproduced on the Gettysburg battlefield, and
+it is the monument of five officers and ninety men of Pittsfield
+killed in the Civil War. At the dedication of this statue was read
+Whittier's eloquent lyric, "Massachusetts to Virginia," which was
+inspired by the "Latimer fugitive slave case" in 1842. An owner from
+Norfolk claimed the fugitive in Boston, and was awarded him by the
+courts, but the decision caused so much excitement that the slave's
+emancipation was purchased for $400, the owner gladly taking the money
+rather than pursue the case further. Thus said Whittier:
+
+     "A voice from lips whereon the coal from Freedom's shrine hath been
+     Thrilled as but yesterday the breasts of Berkshire's mountain men;
+     The echoes of that solemn voice are sadly lingering still
+     In all our sunny valleys, on every wind-swept hill.
+
+     "And sandy Barnstable rose up, wet with the salt sea-spray;
+     And Bristol sent her answering shout down Narragansett Bay;
+     Along the broad Connecticut old Hampden felt the thrill,
+     And the cheer of Hampshire's woodmen swept down from Holyoke Hill:
+
+     "'No slave-hunt in our borders--no pirate on our strand!
+     No fetters in the Bay State--no slave upon our land!'"
+
+Bordering this famous Green are the churches and public buildings of
+Pittsfield, while not far away a spacious and comfortable mansion is
+pointed out which for many years was the summer home of Longfellow,
+and the place where he found "The Old Clock on the Stairs"--the clock
+is said to still remain in the house. The Pittsfield streets lead out
+in every direction to lovely scenes on mountain slopes or the banks of
+lakes. The Agassiz Association for the study of natural history has
+its headquarters in Pittsfield, there being a thousand local chapters
+in various parts of the world. This pleasant region was the Indian
+domain of Pontoosuc, "the haunt of the winter deer," and this is the
+name of one of the prettiest adjacent lakes just north of the town on
+the Williamstown road. Ononta is another of exquisite contour, west of
+the town, a romantic lakelet elevated eighteen hundred feet, which
+gives Pittsfield its water supply, and has an attractive park upon its
+shores. On the mountain to the northwest is Berry Pond, its margin of
+silvery sand strewn with delicate fibrous mica and snowy quartz. Here,
+in various directions, are the "Opes," as the beautiful vista views
+are called, along the vales opening through and among the hills. One
+of these, to the southward, overlooks the lakelet of the "Lily Bowl."
+Here lived Herman Melville, the rover of the seas, when he wrote his
+sea-novels. The chief of these vales is to the northwest of
+Pittsfield, the "Ope of Promise," giving a view over the "Promised
+Land." We are told that this tract was named with grim Yankee humor,
+because the original grant of the title to the land was "long
+promised, long delayed."
+
+
+LENOX.
+
+A fine road, with exquisite views, leads a few miles southward to
+Lenox, the "gem among the mountains," as Professor Silliman called it,
+standing upon a high ridge at twelve hundred feet elevation, and
+rising far above the general floor of the valley, the mountain ridges
+bounding it upon either hand, being about five miles apart, and having
+pleasant intervales between. There is a population of about three
+thousand, but summer and autumn sojourners greatly enlarge this, when
+throngs of happy pilgrims from the large cities come here, most of
+them having their own villas. The crests and slopes of the hills round
+about Lenox are crowned by mansions, many of them costly and imposing,
+adding to the charms of the landscape. At the head of the main street,
+the highest point of the village, stands the old Puritan
+Congregational Church, with its little white wooden belfry and a view
+all around the compass. This primitive church recalls many memories of
+the good old times, before fashion sought out Lenox and worshipped at
+its shrine:
+
+     "They had rigid manners and homespun breeches
+             In the good old times;
+     They hunted Indians and hung up witches
+             In the good old times;
+     They toiled and moiled from sun to sun,
+     And they counted sinful all kinds of fun,
+     And they went to meeting armed with a gun,
+             In the good old times."
+
+Far to the northward, seen from this old church, beyond many swelling
+knolls and ridges, rises Old Graylock, looking like a recumbent
+elephant, as the clouds overhang its twin rounded peaks, thirty miles
+away. From the church door, facing the south and looking over and
+beyond the village, there is such a panorama that even without the
+devotion of the inspired Psalmist, one might prefer to stand in the
+door of the Lord's house rather than dwell in tent, tabernacle or
+mansion. This glorious view is over two valleys, one on either hand,
+their bordering ridges covered with the fairest foliage. To the
+distant southwest, where the Housatonic Valley stretches away in
+winding courses, the stream flowing in wayward fashion across the
+view, there are many ridgy hills, finally fading into the horizon
+beyond the Connecticut boundary. The immediate hillside is covered
+with the churchyard graves, and then slopes down into the village,
+with its surrounding galaxy of villas, among which little lakes glint
+in the sunlight. It is no wonder that Fanny Kemble, who lived here at
+intervals for many years, desired to be buried at this church door,
+for she could not have found a fairer resting-place, though Henry Ward
+Beecher, another summer sojourner, in his enthusiasm expressed the
+hope that in her life to come she would "behold one so much fairer
+that this scenic beauty shall fade to a shadow."
+
+The earliest settlements in this part of the Berkshires, then a
+dangerous Indian frontier, were in 1750; and a few years later, when
+peace was restored, lands were bought and two towns started, one
+called Mount Ephraim and the other Yokun-town, after an Indian chief.
+The Duke of Richmond, whose family name was Lenox, had taken strong
+ground in favor of the American colonists, and in gratitude these
+towns, when subsequently incorporated, were called, the former
+Richmond, and the latter Lenox. The duke's coat-of-arms hangs upon the
+wall in the village Library of Lenox. In 1787 Lenox was made the
+county-seat of Berkshire, so continuing for eighty-one years, and its
+present church was built in 1806, replacing an older one. It began to
+be a summer resort at the beginning of the nineteenth century, and
+became fashionable after Fanny Kemble, then the great celebrity,
+visited it about 1838, and stopped at the "Berkshire Coffee House,"
+setting the fashion of early rising by requiring her horse to be
+saddled and bridled and promptly at the door at seven o'clock in the
+morning, for a daily gallop of ten or twelve miles before breakfast.
+Lenox has now developed into so much wealth, fashion and luxury, that
+it is known as "the Newport of the Berkshires." Its one long village
+main street contains the Library and hotels, and in all directions
+pleasant roads lead out to the hills and vales around, which are
+developed in every way that wealth and art can master. The broad and
+charming grass-bordered main street, under its rows of stately
+overarching elms, leads southward down the hill among the villas. The
+deep adjacent valleys, with their many and varied knolls and slopes,
+give such grand outlooks that dwellings can be placed almost anywhere
+to advantage, most of them being spacious and impressive, their
+elaborate architecture adding to the attractions.
+
+
+THE STOCKBRIDGE BOWL.
+
+Southward from Lenox is the outer elevated rim of the "Stockbridge
+Bowl," a deep basin among the hills, and one can look down within this
+grand amphitheatre upon Lake Mahkeenac nestling there, with the rocky
+and chaotic top of the distant Monument Mountain closing the view
+beyond. There are attractive villas perched upon all the knolls and
+terraces surrounding this famous "Bowl," and one modest older mansion
+overlooks it among so much modern magnificence--Nathaniel Hawthorne's
+"House of the Seven Gables," the remains of which are still shown.
+Here he lived for a few years in a quaint little red wooden house,
+looking as if built in bits, and having a glorious view for miles away
+across the lake. Mrs. Hawthorne once described this house in a letter
+to her mother as "the reddest little thing, which looks like the
+smallest of ten-foot houses." Nearby is the farm where he got milk,
+the route to which he called the "milky-way." They have named the road
+leading out from Lenox to this house, in his honor, "Hawthorne
+Street." The view over the lake from its back windows was so
+enchanting that he was very proud of it, and Mrs. Hawthorne records
+that one day Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes, who then lived near
+Pittsfield, rode down to make a call. They insisted on his coming in
+"to get a peep at the lake through the boudoir window," while
+Hawthorne himself held the doctor's horse at the door. The humorist,
+on returning, acknowledged the kindness with a pleasantry, saying, "Is
+there another man in all America that ever had such honor as to have
+the author of 'The Scarlet Letter' hold his horse?"
+
+The rides around the "Stockbridge Bowl" are delicious. Over the hills
+they go, up and down the terraces widely encircling the grand basin,
+now under arching canopies of elms, then through the forest, past
+little lakelets, with fascinating views in all directions, and always
+having the placid lake for a central gem down in the "Bowl." There are
+villas on all the points of vantage--red-topped and white-topped--the
+princely palaces of wealthy bankers and merchants. One of the most
+noted of these villas on Lanier Hill, high above the "Bowl" and the
+surrounding vales, gives opportunity to overlook several lakes, and
+study the rock-ribbed structure of the charming region, thrust up in
+crags and layers of white marble. The walls and stonework of the
+buildings are chiefly white, contrasting prettily with the foliage and
+greensward. Here is seen the Laurel Lake, and beyond is the village of
+Lee, nestling in the deep valley along the winding Housatonic, its
+tall white church spire rising among the trees, yet far down among the
+surrounding hills. All the adjacent slopes are covered with villas,
+and the marble-quarries and paper-mills have made the town's fortune.
+There are about four thousand people, and the Lee quarries are among
+the most noted in America. The pure white marble, cut out of deep
+fissures alongside the Housatonic, has built many famous structures,
+including the two largest buildings in the country, the Capitol at
+Washington and the Philadelphia City Hall, and also St. Patrick's
+Cathedral in New York. Lee was named in the Revolution, after "Light
+Horse Harry" of Virginia.
+
+
+STOCKBRIDGE AND ITS INDIANS.
+
+Across an intervening ridge beyond the "Bowl" is the village of
+Stockbridge. The wayward Housatonic encircles Lee, and flows athwart
+the valley towards the west, thus making a meadow on which this
+pleasant settlement stands. In the autumn, turkeys strut about, and
+pumpkins lie profusely in the fields, preparing for the annual New
+England feast of roast turkey and pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving Day--the
+great Puritan holiday that has spread over the country. Monument
+Mountain and Bear Mountain to the southward guard the smaller glen
+into which the highway leads, with Stockbridge scattered through it
+upon the winding river banks. This region was settled earlier than
+Lenox, the first colonists from the Connecticut Valley venturing out
+upon the Indian trail across the Hoosac range in 1725 to take up a
+grant in the Southern Berkshires. They found here, on the river bank,
+the Mohican Indian village of Housatonnuc, and established relations
+of the greatest friendliness. Field's Hill overlooks the town, where
+Cyrus W. Field, of Atlantic cable memory, and his brothers were born.
+Stockbridge has been described as one of "the delicious surprises of
+Berkshire," quiet and seemingly almost asleep beneath its embowering
+meadow elms under the rim of the hills upon the river-bordered plain.
+Upon the wide green street stands a solid square stone tower, with a
+clock and chimes, bearing the inscription, "This memorial marks the
+spot where stood the little church in which John Sergeant preached to
+the Indians in 1739." This handsome tower, standing in front of the
+Congregational Church, was the gift of David Dudley Field to his
+birthplace.
+
+These Indians called themselves the Muhhekanews, or "the people of the
+great moving waters," and Sergeant was sent as a missionary among
+them, laboring fifteen years. They were afterwards called the
+Stockbridge Indians. Jonathan Edwards, the renowned metaphysician, who
+had differences with the church at Northampton, succeeded Sergeant,
+and came out into the Berkshire wilderness, living among these Indians
+and preaching by the aid of interpreters. This great pastor lived
+happily at Stockbridge for six years on an annual salary of $35, with
+$10 extra paid in fuel, and in one of the oldest houses of the village
+wrote his celebrated work on _The Freedom of the Will_. He left
+Stockbridge to become President of Princeton College in New Jersey.
+The Stockbridge Indians had a wonderful tradition. They said that a
+great people crossed deep waters from a far-distant continent in the
+northwest, and by many pilgrimages marched to the seashore and the
+valley of the Hudson. Here they built cities and lived until a famine
+scattered them, and many died. Wandering afterwards for years in quest
+of a precarious living, they lost their arts and manners, and part of
+them settled in the village on the Housatonic, where the Puritans
+found them. They gladly received Sergeant's ministry, and he baptized
+over a hundred of them, translating the New Testament and part of the
+Old into their language. When Edwards came, in 1751, there were one
+hundred and fifty Indian families, and but six English families. Many
+were in the Continental army in the Revolution, and a company of these
+Indians won distinction in the battle of White Plains, near New York.
+They were dispersed in later days, some going to Western New York and
+others to the far West; but on the slope of a hill adjoining the river
+remains their old graveyard, a rugged weather-worn shaft surmounting a
+stone pile to mark it.
+
+  [Illustration: _Monument to Jonathan Edwards, Stockbridge, Mass._]
+
+Upon the green village main street is Edwards' little old wooden
+house, having three small windows above the ponderous door. It is now
+called "Edwards Hall," and a granite obelisk out in front, erected by
+his descendants in 1871, preserves the memory of the great divine.
+Over opposite is the venerable Sedgwick Mansion, the home of the
+famous Sedgwick family. Farther up the street is the Cemetery, where
+the most interesting feature is the enclosure set apart for their
+tombs, the graves being arranged in circles around the central tomb of
+Judge Theodore Sedgwick, the founder. He was a native of Hartford,
+born in 1746, migrated to Sheffield in Berkshire, and finally settled
+at Stockbridge after the Revolution, becoming one of the leading
+statesmen of New England, prominent in the old Federal party, Member
+of Congress and Senator from Massachusetts, and Speaker of the House.
+He was subsequently made Judge of the Massachusetts Supreme Court,
+dying in office in 1813. His children and descendants surround his
+grave, among them his daughter, the distinguished authoress, Catherine
+Maria Sedgwick, born at Stockbridge in 1789, who died in 1867.
+
+A few miles to the southeast is Monument Mountain, the Indian
+"Fisher's Nest," one of the most curious and attractive of the
+Berkshire hills on account of its position and form, although the
+summit is not very high, less than thirteen hundred feet. Its rock
+formations are fine, being of white quartz, and on the eastern side is
+a detached cliff with a huge pinnacle nearly a hundred feet high,
+known as the "Pulpit." Hawthorne greatly admired this mountain, at
+which he looked from his boudoir window across the lake, and in its
+autumn hues he said it appeared like "a headless sphinx wrapped in a
+rich Persian shawl," seen across a valley that was "a vast basin
+filled with sunshine as with wine." The mountain received its modern
+name from a cairn found on the summit, the tradition telling of a
+mythical Indian maiden who got crossed in love, and as a consequence
+jumped off the topmost cliff, being dashed to pieces. Her tribe, when
+they passed that way, each added a stone to the pile, thus building
+the cairn. There are many stones thrown all around this peculiarly
+rugged mountain, which is piled up with white marble crags in a region
+where abrupt peaks are seen almost everywhere. In among these cliffs
+is the Ice Glen, a cold and narrow cleft where ice may be found in
+midsummer, it is so secluded from sunshine. The appearance of Monument
+Mountain made a strong impression on William Cullen Bryant, who thus
+described it:
+
+                         "To the north, a path
+     Conducts you up the narrow battlements.
+     Steep is the western side, shaggy and wild,
+     With many trees and pinnacles of flint,
+     And many a haughty crag. But to the east
+     Sheer to the vale go down the bare old cliffs,
+     Huge pillars that in middle heaven uprear
+     Their weather-beaten capitals--here dark
+     With the thick moss of centuries, and there
+     Of chalky whiteness, where the thunderbolt
+     Hath smitten them."
+
+
+GREAT BARRINGTON.
+
+To the southward farther, the widening Housatonic circles about the
+valley, bordered with willows and alders, and hidden frequently by
+cliffs and forests. Hills terrace the horizon, with mountain peaks
+among them. Through the gorges the road follows down the circling
+river, which constantly turns more mill-wheels, its waters pouring
+over frequent white marble dams and bubbling upon rapids, with steep
+tree-clad slopes adorning the banks and making attractive views.
+Monument Mountain's long ridge gradually falls off, and the intervale
+broadens as the Housatonic winds in wider channel to Great Barrington.
+This is another typical New England village, embowered by the
+stateliest of elms, spreading along its broad green-bordered street,
+with a galaxy of hills encircling the intervale in which it stands,
+and lofty Mount Everett rising grandly over its southwestern verge. To
+the eastward is the special hill of Great Barrington, giving the town
+its name. Beecher described it as "one of those places which one never
+enters without wishing never to leave." William Cullen Bryant for
+several years, ending with 1825, was the town clerk of Great
+Barrington, and the records of that time are in his handwriting; his
+house is still preserved. For a quarter of a century Dr. Samuel
+Hopkins lived here, the hero of Mrs. Stowe's novel, the _Minister's
+Wooing_. On the lowlands by the river is the costliest country-house
+in the Berkshires, Kellogg Terrace, built by Mrs. Hopkins-Searles, a
+magnificent structure of blue and white marbles, with red-tiled roofs,
+and most elaborately fitted up, upon which $1,500,000 was expended.
+It is carefully concealed from view from the village street by a
+massive stone wall and well-arranged trees. This mansion principally
+illustrates the affection the New England emigrant always bears for
+the home of youth. Mark Hopkins went away from the Berkshires to
+California to make a fortune and die. His childless widow, a native of
+Great Barrington, had $30,000,000, and came back to live on the farm
+where she had spent her childhood. She determined to rear a memorial,
+and built this French-Gothic palace of the native Berkshire marbles,
+exceeding at the time, in costliness and magnificence, any other
+private dwelling outside of New York City. As the building gradually
+grew, she became so enamored of it and its designer that she took the
+architect, Mr. Searles, for a second husband. Then she died, and he
+became its possessor. Yet it cannot be seen, except by climbing up a
+high hill to the eastward, where one can look down upon its red-tiled
+roofs on the low-lying meadow almost by the river side. The
+Congregational Church of Great Barrington has the Hopkins Memorial
+Manse, regarded as the finest parsonage in the United States, which
+cost $100,000 to build.
+
+Following farther down the Housatonic, the village of Sheffield,
+another domain of marble quarries, is reached, with the same broad,
+quiet, green-bordered and elm-shaded village street, and famed for
+having furnished the marble to build Girard College and its
+magnificent colonnade at Philadelphia. The "Sheffield Elm" in the
+southern part of the town, a noble tree of great age, was given fame
+by the "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table." To the westward is the broad
+and solid mass of Mount Everett, often called Mount Washington, the
+southern outpost of the Taghkanic range, and the sentinel guarding the
+southwestern corner of Massachusetts, as Old Graylock guards the
+northwest corner. This mountain rises over twenty-six hundred feet,
+the "Dome of the Taghkanics." From its summit can be surveyed to the
+westward the valley of the Hudson, while beyond, at the horizon, the
+distant Catskills hang, in the words of Dr. Hitchcock, "like the
+curtains of the sky." The Connecticut boundary is not far away, and
+beyond it, southward, are successive ranges of hills. The Housatonic
+winds through productive valleys, with herds quietly grazing, and
+tobacco and other crops growing. This is in the town of Mount
+Washington, which was part of the great Livingston Manor that
+stretched in front of the mountain over to the Hudson, and the first
+settlers were Dutch, who came up from that valley. This region was the
+scene of the close of Shays' Rebellion in 1787, the insurgents who had
+convulsed western Massachusetts, and attacked and plundered
+Stockbridge, being chased down here by the troops, and a considerable
+number killed and wounded before they were dispersed.
+
+
+TO SALISBURY AND BEYOND.
+
+The southwestern corner of Massachusetts, projecting westward into New
+York outside the Connecticut boundary, is known as Boston Corner. To
+the southward, in the northwestern corner of Connecticut, is
+Salisbury, where the Taghkanic range falls away into lower hills.
+Beecher described this country as a constant succession of hills
+swelling into mountains, and of mountains flowing down into hills.
+This is a quiet region, formerly a producer of iron ores, and it was
+early settled by the Dutch, who came over from the Hudson in 1720.
+They were a timid race, however, fearing the rigors of climate, and,
+coming thus to the edge of what looked like an Alpine land of
+dreariness beyond, they would not venture farther into the forbidding
+hills. The mountainous region to the north and east they inscribed on
+their maps as a large white vacant space, which they coolly named
+"Winterberg." The township has two noted ravines, solitary, rugged and
+attractive, and both containing cascades. In one to the westward is
+the celebrated Bash-Bish Falls, and the other to the northward is
+Sage's Ravine, just beyond it being Norton's Falls. The Bash-Bish is
+said to have got its name in imitation of running, falling waters. It
+descends nearly five hundred feet in cataracts and rapids, the finest
+cascades in the Berkshires, and then flows out westward to the Hudson.
+The Housatonic, going southward through Salisbury, plunges down its
+Great Falls over rocky ledges for sixty feet descent, making a
+tremendous noise and a fine display. To the eastward of the Housatonic
+Valley, at an elevation of eleven hundred feet, on a broad plateau, is
+Litchfield, consisting chiefly of two broad, tree-shaded streets
+crossing at right angles, the chief buildings fronting on the central
+village Green. On the southwestern outskirts is Bantam Lake, the
+largest in Connecticut, covering a little over a square mile of
+surface. The most famous house in Litchfield, which has been moved,
+however, from its original location, is unpretentious, the old-time
+wooden mansion in which Rev. Lyman Beecher lived when pastor here,
+from 1810 to 1826, and where was born the famous authoress, Harriet
+Beecher, in 1812, who married Rev. Calvin E. Stowe, and the famous
+preacher, Henry Ward Beecher, in 1813. In the Wolcott House at
+Litchfield was born Oliver Wolcott, Secretary of the Treasury, he and
+his father both having been Connecticut Governors. To this house was
+brought, in the Revolution, the leaden statue of King George III.,
+which stood on the Bowling Green of New York, to be melted into
+bullets. These were the favorite Indian hunting-grounds of Bantam
+around the lake, and when Litchfield was first settled, about 1720,
+the village was surrounded by a palisade, lest the savages should
+return to their coveted region to take forcible possession. Litchfield
+for a half-century after the Revolution had the most noted law school
+in America. To the northward, at Wolcottville, where there are now
+large factories, lived Captain John Brown, a noted Revolutionary
+soldier, and here was born in 1800 his grandson, "Old John Brown of
+Osawatomie."
+
+Yet farther southward, but still among the hills, west of the
+Housatonic Valley and near the New York boundary, is Danbury, famous
+for its hat-factories, a town of about twenty thousand people. The
+first hat-factory in America was opened at Danbury in 1780 by Zadoc
+Benedict, three men making three hats a day. The factories now turn
+out several thousand a day. In May, 1777, the Hessians attacked
+Danbury and destroyed a large amount of the Revolutionary army
+supplies, and it is recorded of the tragic event that Danbury was
+"ankle-deep in pork-fat." On that memorable occasion it is said that
+when the raiders were advancing up a hill a bold and reckless Yankee
+farmer rode to its crest and shouted loudly, "Halt, the whole
+universe; break off by kingdoms!" This demonstration alarmed the
+Hessians, who thought a formidable force coming, and they halted to
+defend themselves, deploying skirmishers and getting up their cannon
+to the front. It was in an attack upon these raiders near Danbury that
+General Wooster was mortally wounded, and the Danbury Cemetery
+contains his monument. The constantly broadening Housatonic River
+winds among the Connecticut hills in its steady course southeastward
+to its confluence with the Naugatuck, a smaller stream coming down
+through a pretty valley from the north, its Indian name meaning "one
+tree," referring to an ancient tree on its banks which was a landmark
+for the aborigines. The Naugatuck tumbles over a waterfall in the
+Indian domain of Paugussett, furnishing power for the mills of
+Ansonia, noted for its clocks. Near the confluence of the rivers is
+the great Housatonic dam, six hundred feet long and twenty-three feet
+high, constructed at a cost of $500,000 for the manufacturers of
+Derby, who make pins, tacks, stockings, pianos and many other
+articles. Commodore Isaac Hull, born in 1773, was the most
+distinguished native of Derby, the commander of the frigate
+"Constitution" when she captured the "Guerriere" in 1812. Then in
+stately course the broad Housatonic flows southward, to finally empty
+into Long Island Sound. The beauties of the Berkshire hills, so much
+of which are made by the Housatonic's wayward course, have been the
+theme of universal admiration, and their praises abound in our best
+American literature. It was after a visit there that Robert G.
+Ingersoll made his happy phrases in contrasting country and city life:
+
+"It is no advantage to live in a great city, where poverty degrades
+and failure brings despair. The fields are lovelier than paved
+streets, and the great forests than walls of brick. Oaks and elms are
+more poetic than steeples and chimneys. In the country is the idea of
+home. There you see the rising and setting sun; you become acquainted
+with the stars and clouds. The constellations are your friends. You
+hear the rain on the roof and listen to the rhythmic sighing of the
+winds. You are thrilled by the resurrection called Spring, touched and
+saddened by Autumn, the grace and poetry of death. Every field is a
+picture, a landscape; every landscape a poem; every flower a tender
+thought; and every forest a fairy-land. In the country you preserve
+your identity, your personality. There you are an aggregation of
+atoms, but in the city you are only an atom of an aggregation."
+
+The historian of the Berkshires, Clark W. Bryan of Great Barrington,
+thus poetically describes the Berkshire hills and homes:
+
+     "Between where Hudson's waters flow
+       Adown from gathering streams,
+     And where the clear Connecticut,
+       In lengthened beauty gleams--
+     Where run bright rills, and stand high rocks,--
+       Where health and beauty comes,
+     And peace and happiness abides,
+       Rest Berkshire's Hills and Homes.
+
+     "The Hoosac winds its tortuous course,
+       The Housatonic sweeps
+     Through fields of living loveliness,
+       As on its course it keeps.
+     Old Saddleback stands proudly by,
+       Among Taconic's peaks,
+     And rugged mountain Monument
+       Of Indian legend speaks.
+
+     "Mount Washington with polished brow,
+       Green in the summer days,
+     Or white with winter's driving storms,
+       Or with autumn's flame ablaze,
+     Looms up across the southern sky,
+       In native beauty dressed--
+     The home of Bash-Bish, weird and old,
+       Anear the mountain's crest.
+
+     "And still each streamlet runs its course,
+       And still each mountain stands,
+     While Berkshire's sons and daughters roam
+       Through home and foreign lands;
+     But though they roam, or though they rest,
+       A thought spontaneous comes,
+     Of love and veneration for
+       Our Berkshire Hills and Homes."
+
+
+
+
+THE ADIRONDACKS AND THEIR ATTENDANT LAKES.
+
+
+
+
+XII.
+
+THE ADIRONDACKS AND THEIR ATTENDANT LAKES.
+
+     The Great North Woods -- Mount Marcy or Tahawus -- Schroon Lake
+     -- Raquette River -- View from Mount Marcy -- Door of the
+     Country -- Lake George -- Horicon, the Silvery Water -- Isaac
+     Jogues -- Sir William Johnson -- Lake George Scenery and
+     Islands -- Sabbath Day Point -- Lake George Battles and
+     Massacres -- The Bloody Morning Scout -- Colonel Ephraim
+     Williams -- Baron Dieskau Defeated and Captured -- Fort William
+     Henry -- Fort Carillon -- General Montcalm -- Massacre at Fort
+     William Henry -- Alexandria -- Ticonderoga -- Abercrombie's
+     Expedition -- General Lord Howe -- Rogers' Slide -- Howe Killed
+     and Abercrombie Defeated -- Amherst's Expedition -- Carillon
+     Captured -- Fort Ticonderoga -- Conquest of Canada -- Ethan
+     Allen Captures Ticonderoga -- Lake Champlain -- Samuel de
+     Champlain Explores It -- Defeats the Iroquois -- Crown Point --
+     Port Henry -- Bulwagga Mountain and Bay -- Fort St. Frederic --
+     Westport -- Split Rock -- Rock Reggio -- Port Kent -- Vermont
+     -- The Green Mountains -- Bennington -- John Stark -- Rutland
+     -- Killington Peak -- Mount Mansfield -- Forehead, Nose and
+     Chin -- Camel's Hump -- Maple Sugar -- Burlington -- University
+     of Vermont -- Ethan Allen's Grave -- Winooski River --
+     Smuggler's Notch -- Montpelier -- Hessian Cannon -- St. Albans
+     -- Ausable Chasm -- Alice Falls -- Birmingham Falls -- Grand
+     Flume -- Bluff Point -- Lower Saranac River -- Plattsburg --
+     Fredenburgh's Ghost -- McDonough's Victory -- Chateaugay Forest
+     -- Clinton Prison -- Rouse's Point -- Richelieu River --
+     Chambly Rapids -- Entering the Adirondacks -- Raven Pass --
+     Bouquet River -- Elizabethtown -- Mount Hurricane -- Giant of
+     the Valley -- Ausable River -- Flats of Keene -- Mount Dix --
+     Noon Mark Mountain -- Ausable Lakes -- Adirondack Mountain
+     Reserve -- Mount Colvin -- Verplanck Colvin -- Long Pond
+     Mountain -- Pitch-Off Mountain -- Cascade Lakes -- Mount
+     Mclntyre -- Wallface -- Western Ausable River -- Plains of
+     Abraham -- North Elba -- Whiteface -- Old John Brown's Farm and
+     Grave -- Lake Placid -- Mirror Lake -- Eye of the Adirondacks
+     -- Upper Saranac River -- Harrietstown -- Lower Saranac Lake --
+     Ampersand -- Canoeing and Carrying -- Round Lake -- Upper
+     Saranac Lake -- Big Clear Pond -- St. Regis Mountain and River
+     -- St. Germain Carry -- St. Regis Lakes -- Paul Smith's --
+     Raquette River and Lake -- Camp Pine Knot -- Blue Mountain and
+     Lake -- Eagle Lake -- Fulton Lakes -- Forked Lakes -- Long Lake
+     -- Tupper Lakes -- Mountains, Woods and Waters -- The Forest
+     Hymn.
+
+
+THE GREAT NORTH WOODS.
+
+The Adirondack wilderness covers almost the whole of Northern New
+York. This region is an elevated plateau of about fifteen thousand
+square miles, crossed by mountain ranges. It stretches from Canada
+down almost to the Mohawk Valley, and from Lake Champlain northwest to
+the St. Lawrence, in rugged surface, the plateau from which its peaks
+arise being elevated about two thousand feet above the sea. Five
+nearly parallel mountain ranges cross it from southwest to northeast,
+terminating in great promontories upon the shores of Lake Champlain.
+The most westerly is the Clinton or Adirondack range, beginning at the
+pass of Little Falls upon the Mohawk River and crossing the wilderness
+to the bold Trembleau Point upon the lake at Port Kent. This range
+contains the highest peaks, the loftiest of them, Mount Marcy or
+Tahawus, rising fifty-three hundred and forty-five feet, while Mounts
+McIntyre, Whiteface, Seward and several others nearby approximate five
+thousand feet. A multitude of peaks of various heights are scattered
+through the region, over five hundred being enumerated. They are all
+wild and savage, and were covered by the primeval forests until the
+ruthless wood-chopper began his destructive incursions. The stony
+summits of the higher mountains rise above all vegetation, excepting
+mosses and dwarf Alpine plants. The geological formation is mainly
+granitic and other primary rocks. In the valleys are more than a
+thousand beautiful lakes of varying sizes, generally at fifteen
+hundred to two thousand feet elevation, Schroon Lake, the largest,
+being the lowest, elevated eight hundred and seven feet, while the
+highest is "The Tear of the Clouds," at forty-three hundred and twenty
+feet elevation, one of the Hudson River sources. Some of these lakes
+are quite large, while others cover only a few acres, and most of them
+are lovely and romantic in everything but their prosaic names; and
+their scenery, with the surrounding mountains and overspreading
+forests, is unsurpassed. The labyrinth of lakes is connected by
+intricate systems of rivulets which go plunging down myriads of
+cascades, their outlets discharging into several well-known rivers,
+the chief being the Hudson. The largest and finest stream within the
+district is the Raquette River, rising in Raquette Lake and flowing
+westward and northward to the St. Lawrence. Around it, in the olden
+time, the Indians gathered on snowshoes to hunt the moose--the
+snowshoe being the French Canadian's "raquette," and hence the name.
+The Ausable and Saranac pass through romantic gorges and flow
+northeastward to Lake Champlain. This "Great North Woods," as it was
+called by our ancestors, is being so greatly despoiled of its forests,
+that to preserve the water supply of the Hudson, as well as to protect
+its scenic attractions, New York is making a State Park to include
+four thousand square miles, of which nearly one-half is now secured,
+having cost about $1,000,000. Railways are gradually extending into
+the district; it is becoming dotted with summer hotels and
+camping-grounds; and is one of the most popular American pleasure
+resorts.
+
+The highest peak, Mount Marcy, has a summit which is a bare rock of
+about four hundred by one hundred feet, elevated more than a mile, and
+its outlook gives a splendid map of the Adirondacks. All about are
+mountains, though none are as high; McIntyre and Colden are close
+companions, with the dark forests of the St. Lawrence region
+stretching far behind them to the northwest. To the northward is the
+beautiful oval-shaped Lake Placid, with Whiteface rising beyond it,
+and nearby, to the westward, is the Indian "Big Eye," Mount Seward,
+which, with the "Giant of the Valley," rises far above the attendant
+peaks. Behind these, the hills to the northward gradually melt into
+the level lands along the St. Lawrence, out of which faintly rises the
+distant Mount Royal, back of Montreal. The Vermont Green Mountains
+bound the eastern horizon, with the hazy outline of Mount Washington
+traced against the sky through a depression in that range, thus
+opening an almost deceptive view of the distant White Mountains. The
+Catskills close the southern view. The vast wilderness spreads all
+around this noble mountain, its white lakes gleaming, its dark forests
+broken by a few clearings, and smokes arising here and there
+disclosing the abiding-places of the summer sojourner. Off to the
+northeast stretches the long glistening streak of Lake Champlain,
+low-lying, the telescope disclosing the sails of the vessels like
+specks upon its bosom, and the Vermont villages fringing the
+farther shore. This narrow, elongated lake, filling the immense
+trough-like valley between the Adirondacks and the Green Mountains of
+Vermont, the Indians called as one of its names (for it had several)
+Cania-de-ri-qua-rante, meaning "The door of the Country." Naming
+everything from a prominent attribute, to their minds the chief use of
+this long water way was as a door to let in the fierce Hurons from
+Canada when they came south to make war upon the Mohawks or the
+Mohicans. Many a brave warrior, both Indian and white, has gone
+through that door to attack his foes, one way or the other. As far
+back as tradition goes, the dusky savages were darting swiftly along
+the lake in their canoes, bent upon plunder or revenge. Then came
+Champlain, its white discoverer, to aid the Hurons with his arquebuse
+in their forays upon the Mohawks and Iroquois. In the ante-Revolutionary
+days many a French and Indian horde came along to massacre and destroy
+the English and Dutch settlements in the Hudson Valley. Then the
+current changed, and the English beat back their foes northward along
+the lake. Again it changed, as Burgoyne came in triumph through that
+door to meet defeat at Saratoga. Finally, in 1814, the last British
+forces moved southward on the lake, but they, too, were beaten. Since
+then this famous door has stood wide open, but only tourists and
+traders are passing through, though zest is given the present
+exploration by its warlike history of two centuries.
+
+
+LAKE GEORGE.
+
+Upon the southeastern border of the Adirondacks is Lake George, its
+head or southern end being nine miles north of Glen's Falls on the
+Hudson River. No American lake has had so many songs of praise; it is
+a gem among the mountains, its picturesque grandeur giving it the
+deserved title of the American Como. It reminds the Englishman of
+Windermere and the Scot of charming Loch Katrine, for while it is
+larger, it holds a place in our scenery akin to both those famous
+lakes. Embowered amid high hills, a crystal mirror set in among
+cliffs and forest-clad mountains, their wild and rugged features are
+constantly reflected in its clear spring waters. Its scenery mingles
+the gentle and picturesque with the bold and magnificent. George
+Bancroft, referring to its warlike history, says: "Peacefully rest the
+waters of Lake George between their ramparts of highlands. In their
+pellucid depth the cliffs and the hills and the trees trace their
+images, and the beautiful region speaks to the heart, teaching
+affection for nature." It is long and narrow, having more the
+character of a river than a lake, lying almost north and south, in a
+deep trough among the mountains, its waters discharging from the north
+end into Lake Champlain, and while thirty-six miles long, it is
+nowhere more than two or three miles wide. Washing the eastern verges
+of the Adirondacks, the bold ranges give it the rare beauties of
+scenery always presented by a mountain lake. Its surface is two
+hundred and forty-three feet above tide-water, and in some places it
+is over four hundred feet deep, the basin in which it rests being
+covered with a yellow sand, so that the bottom is visible through the
+pellucid waters at great depth. It is dotted with romantic islands,
+beautiful hill-slopes border the shores, and the background rises into
+dark and bold mountains. This magnificent lake was Horicon, or the
+"Silvery Water" of the Mohicans, a name which Cooper, the novelist,
+vainly endeavored to revive for it. The Mohawks called it
+Andiatarocte, or the "Place where the Lake Closes." The Hurons, as it
+appeared much like an appendage to Lake Champlain, named it
+Canaderioit, or the "Tail of the Lake." The first white man who saw it
+was the young French Jesuit missionary, Isaac Jogues, who had been
+captured on the St. Lawrence by a band of Mohawks, and was brought
+through it a captive in 1642, and after horrible maltreatment escaped
+to Albany. He went home to France, and in 1646 came out again,
+determined to convert them. His canoe entered its quiet waters on his
+beneficent mission on the eve of the festival of Corpus Christi, and
+he named it Lac du Saint Sacrament. He went on to the Mohawk Valley
+and ministered to them, but soon they murdered him. The French prized
+its clear and sparkling waters so highly that they were sent to Canada
+for baptismal uses. When Sir William Johnson came along more than a
+century later and took possession for England, he brushed aside all
+these romantic names, and in honor of his King George II., called it
+Lake George, the name which remains.
+
+A charming steamboat ride over the lake best discloses its delicious
+scenery as one glides among the lovely islands, and through scenes
+like a fairy-land, their brilliant prospects constantly changing. At
+almost every hour from noon to eve, or in the gathering storm, the
+islands of Lake George--which are said to equal in number the days of
+the year--exhibit ever new phases. They may sleep under the
+cloud-shadow, and then the sun brightly breaks over them; they present
+a foreground of rough rocks or of pebble and shingle-covered beach, or
+an Acadian bower of rustic beauty, while the landscape is filled with
+the spreading waters and the distant-tinted hills. Tea Island, near
+the head of the lake, is a picnic-ground; Sloop Island has its
+tree-trunks looking like the spreading sails of a single-masted
+vessel; Diamond Island yields beautiful quartz crystals. Near the
+centre of the widest portion of the lake is Dome Island, richly
+wooded, and resembling the noted "Ellen's Isle" of Loch Katrine. The
+Sisters are diminutive islets, lonely in their isolation. The
+beautiful Recluse Island has a picturesque villa, while all about it
+rise high mountains. Green Island bears the Sagamore, and behind it
+the encircling shores of Ganouskie Bay are lined with villas at
+Bolton, which look out upon a grand archipelago. Green Island covers
+seventy acres, and is a perfect gem of rich green surface. On the
+shores and islands all about are numerous summer camping-places, a
+favorite resort being the Shelving Falls, coming through the Shelving
+Rock, an impressive semicircle of Palisades, behind which rises the
+lake's greatest mountain, ever present in all its views, Black
+Mountain, elevated twenty-nine hundred feet. Just beyond, the towering
+hills thrust out on either hand contract the waters into the Narrows,
+dotted with a whole fleet of little islands, the most picturesque
+part of the lake, and here a brief fairy-like glimpse of the hamlet of
+Dresden is got, nestling under these great mountains, down Bosom Bay.
+Northward from the Narrows, a long projecting point of low and fertile
+land stretches out on the western side, still retaining that air of
+restful peace which in the eighteenth century secured it the name of
+Sabbath Day Point. Farther on, and near the outlet, Rogers' Slide is
+on one side and Anthony's Nose on the other, these bold cliffs
+contracting the lake into a second Narrows. Beyond these are lower and
+less interesting shores, and finally, at the foot, its waters are
+discharged through the winding Ticonderoga Creek into Lake Champlain.
+
+
+LAKE GEORGE BATTLES AND MASSACRES.
+
+The historical associations of Lake George are of the deepest
+interest, for it was the route between the colonial frontier and Lake
+Champlain, and the scene of great military movements and savage
+combats. For over a century this attractive region was the sojourning
+place of religious devotees coming down from Canada to convert or
+conquer the heathen Iroquois, or of hostile expeditions moving both
+north and south--Indians, French, Dutch, English--all passing over its
+lovely waters; and it was the scene of two of the most horrid
+massacres of the colonial wars. Whenever there was war between France
+and England this lake saw fierce conflicts, the red men taking part
+with the whites on both sides. In 1755 Sir William Johnson's
+expedition started northward from the Hudson to capture Crown Point on
+Lake Champlain, advancing from Glen's Falls to Lake George, over the
+route still taken. Colonel Ephraim Williams of Massachusetts commanded
+part of this expedition, and was ambushed by the French and Hurons
+near the lake, in what was called the "Bloody Morning Scout." Upon the
+road still exist grim memorials of the ambush and massacre in the
+"Bloody Pond" and "Williams' Rock." He had twelve hundred troops and
+two hundred Mohawk Indians, and both Williams and the white-haired
+Mohawk chief, Hendrick, were slain, with hundreds of their followers,
+and the bodies of the dead were thrown into the pond. When the brave
+Williams started on this sad expedition he had a presentiment of his
+fate and made his will at Albany, giving his estate to support a free
+school, and from this bequest was founded the well-known Williams
+College, at Williamstown, in the Berkshire hills of western
+Massachusetts. A monument on the hillside, resting upon "Williams'
+Rock," was erected in 1854 by the College Alumni, to mark the place of
+his death, while deep down in the glen is the sequestered pond which,
+tradition says, had a bloody hue for many years.
+
+After the surprise and massacre, Johnson's main forces, which had been
+at the head of Lake George and heard the firings came up and engaged
+the French, defeating them with great slaughter, wounding and
+capturing Baron Dieskau, their commander, who was badly maltreated
+until Johnson, learning who he was, sent for surgeons, took him into
+his own tent, and, although wounded himself, had Dieskau's wounds
+dressed first. The Mohawks, furious at the massacre and loss of their
+old chief, Hendrick, wanted to kill Dieskau, and a number of them,
+going into the tent, had a long and angry dispute in their own
+language with Johnson, after which they sullenly left. Dieskau asked
+what they wanted. "What do they want!" returned Johnson. "To burn you,
+by God, eat you, and smoke you in their pipes, in revenge for three or
+four of their chiefs that were killed. But never fear; you shall be
+safe with me, or else they shall kill us both." A captain and fifty
+men were detailed to guard Dieskau, but next morning a lone Indian,
+who had been loitering about the tent, slipped in and, drawing a sword
+concealed under a sort of cloak he wore, tried to stab the disabled
+prisoner. He was seized in time, however, to prevent the murder. The
+distinguished captive, as soon as his wounds permitted, was carried on
+a litter over to the Hudson, and sent thence to Albany and New York.
+He was profuse in his expressions of gratitude, and remarked of the
+provincial soldiers that in the morning they fought like good boys,
+about noon like men, and in the afternoon like devils. He returned to
+Europe in 1757, but he never recovered from his wounds and died a few
+years later. Johnson after the battle built a strong fort at the head
+of Lake George to hold his position, while the straggling French and
+Indians, who had retired to the foot of the lake, entrenched
+themselves at Ticonderoga. Thus was built the famous Fort William
+Henry by the English, named in honor of the Duke of Cumberland,
+brother of King George II., the hero of Culloden, while the French
+named their entrenched camp at Ticonderoga Fort Carillon, or the
+"Chime of Bells," in allusion to the music of the waterfalls in the
+outlet stream flowing beside it between the lakes.
+
+Bitter enemies thus holding either end of Lake George, it became a
+constant battleground. In 1757, after numerous skirmishes, a
+considerable British and Colonial force was collected at Forts Edward
+and William Henry, intended to attack Carillon and Crown Point and
+drive the French down Lake Champlain. General Montcalm then commanded
+the French, and learning what was going on, and that the main British
+force was at Fort Edward, he swiftly traversed the lake with a large
+army and cut off and besieged Fort William Henry, garrisoned by
+twenty-five hundred men. The commander at Fort Edward was afraid to
+send reinforcements, and after a few days the British garrison, their
+guns dismounted and their works almost destroyed, were forced to
+capitulate. No sooner had they laid down their arms and marched out
+of the fort and an adjacent entrenched camp, than the Indian allies of
+the French, the fierce Hurons, fell upon them, plundering
+indiscriminately and murdering all they could reach, there being
+fifteen hundred killed or carried into captivity, and over a hundred
+women slain, with the worst barbarities of the savage. Montcalm did
+his best to restrain them, but was powerless. The fort was an
+irregular bastioned square, formed by gravel embankments, surmounted
+by a rampart of heavy logs laid in tiers, the interstices filled with
+earth, and it was built almost at the edge of the lake, the site being
+now occupied by a hotel. The French spent several days demolishing it.
+The barracks were torn down and the huge logs of the rampart thrown
+into a heap. The dead bodies filling the casemates were added to the
+mass, which was set fire, and the mighty funeral pyre blazed all
+night. Then the French sailed away on the lake, and Parkman says "no
+living thing was left but the wolves that gathered from the mountains
+to feast upon the dead." When the English on the subsequent day sent a
+scouting party from Fort Edward they found a horrible scene; the fires
+were still burning, and the smoke and stench were suffocating, the
+half-consumed corpses broiling upon the embers. The fort had mounted
+nineteen cannon and a few mortars, a train of artillery which Johnson
+had highly prized. The French carried these guns off with them to
+Carillon, and they afterwards had a chequered history. The English
+subsequently retook them at Carillon, and changed the name of that
+fort to Ticonderoga. At the dawn of the Revolution, Ethan Allen and
+his Vermonters surprised Ticonderoga and got them. Then the guns were
+drawn on sledges to Boston, and did notable service in the American
+siege and capture of that city, afterwards going into many engagements
+with Washington's army.
+
+
+ATTACKING CARILLON.
+
+The Lake George outlet stream, which the French called Carillon, from
+its waterfalls, was known by the Indians as Ticonderoga, or "the
+sounding waters." It winds through a ridge about four miles wide
+between the lakes, is pretty but turbulent, and falls down two series
+of cascades, giving music and water-power to the paper and other mills
+at the villages of Alexandria and Ticonderoga, the descent being two
+hundred and thirty feet. The upper cascade at Alexandria goes down
+rapids descending two hundred feet in a mile, and the lower cascade is
+a perpendicular fall of thirty feet at Ticonderoga, this village being
+called by its people "Ty," for short. Here stood the original French
+Fort Carillon guarding the pass at the verge of Lake Champlain. After
+the horrible massacre at Fort William Henry, the British colonists
+determined upon revenge, and General James Abercrombie, who had been
+made the Commander-in-Chief of all the British forces in North
+America through political influence, gathered an army of nearly
+sixteen thousand men at the head of the lake, while Montcalm was at
+Carillon with barely one-fourth the number. Abercrombie, however, was
+little more than the nominal British commander. General Wolfe
+described him as a "heavy man;" and another soldier wrote that he was
+"an aged gentleman, infirm in body and mind." The British Government
+meant that the actual command should be in the hands of General Lord
+Howe, who was in fact the real chief, described by Wolfe as "that
+great man" and "the noblest Englishman that has appeared in my time,
+and the best soldier in the British army;" while Pitt called him "a
+character of ancient times; a complete model of military virtue." This
+young nobleman, then in his thirty-fourth year, was Viscount George
+Augustus Howe, in the Irish peerage, the oldest of the three famous
+Howe brothers who took part in the American wars. The army, Parkman
+says, "felt him from General to drummer-boy." In that army were also
+two future famous men, Israel Putnam and John Stark.
+
+They advanced northward on Lake George, July 5, 1758, in a grand
+flotilla of over a thousand boats, with two floating castles, the
+procession brilliant with rich uniforms and waving banners, and the
+music from its many bands echoing from the enclosing hills. Fenimore
+Cooper, in _Satanstoe_, gives a vivid description of this pageant.
+Passing beyond the Narrows, Abercrombie, on a Sunday morning, landed
+upon the fertile Sabbath Day Point to refresh his men before making
+the attack, thus naming it. Among them was Major Rogers, the Ranger,
+and in front could be seen the steep and rugged cliff of Rogers'
+Slide, named after him, its face a comparatively smooth inclined plane
+of naked rock, rising four hundred feet. The tale, as Rogers told it,
+was, that the previous winter, fleeing from the Indians, he practiced
+upon them a ruse, making them believe he had actually slid down this
+rock to the frozen surface of the lake. He was on snowshoes, the
+savages following, and ran out to the edge of the precipice, casting
+down his knapsack and provision-bag. Then turning around and wearing
+his snowshoes backward, he went to a neighboring ravine, and making
+his way safely down, fled over the ice to the head of the lake. The
+Indians saw the double set of shoe-marks in the snow, and concluded
+two men had jumped down rather than be captured. They saw Rogers going
+off over the ice, and believing he had safely slid down the face of
+the cliff, regarded him as specially protected by the Great Spirit and
+abandoned the pursuit. Thus has his name clung to the remarkable rock,
+though he was said to be a great braggart, and there were people who
+suggested that he ought to have been a leading member of the "Ananias
+Club." Beyond the slide, at the foot of the lake, is the low-lying
+Prisoners' Island, where the British kept the captives they took, and
+nearby Howe's Landing, where the army landed to attack Fort Carillon.
+
+There was then a dense forest covering almost all the surface between
+the lakes, greatly obstructed by undergrowth, and Montcalm had
+protected his position at Carillon with massive breastworks of logs,
+eight or nine feet high, having in front masses of trees cut down with
+their tops turned outwards, thus making it almost impossible for an
+enemy to get through, the sharpened points of the broken branches
+bristling like the quills of a porcupine. As the British troops
+advanced in four columns, they got much mixed up in the forest and
+undergrowth, and Howe, with Putnam and a force of rangers at the head
+of the principal column, although they could not see ahead, suddenly
+came upon the French, were challenged, and a hot skirmish followed, in
+which Howe was shot through the breast and dropped dead. Then all was
+confusion, but they beat this French advanced force and killed or
+captured most of them. The loss of Howe, however, was irretrievable,
+for Abercrombie, deprived of his advice, seemed unable to direct. The
+fort was attacked after a fashion, but the troops floundered about in
+the woods and the network of felled trees, suffered from a murderous
+fire, and were beaten and hurled back discomfited to the shore of the
+lake. A few days later the shattered army, having left nearly two
+thousand dead and dying in front of Carillon, sailed back up the lake
+again to Fort William Henry. Leadership had perished with Lord Howe.
+His monument is in Westminster Abbey, London, having been erected to
+his memory by the General Court of the Colony of Massachusetts, who
+voted £250 for it. So proud was Montcalm of his victory that he caused
+a great cross to be erected on the battlefield, with an inscription in
+Latin composed by himself, which is thus translated:
+
+     "Soldier and chief and rampart's strength are naught;
+      Behold the conquering Cross! 'Tis God the triumph wrought."
+
+
+TICONDEROGA.
+
+Abercrombie was superseded after this disaster and went home, his
+successor in command being Baron Jeffrey Amherst, who the next year
+led another grand martial procession northward along the lake to
+attack the French. His expedition had better success, for it resulted
+in the conquest of Canada, and the treaty of peace which followed
+closed the great "Seven Years' War" most triumphantly for England.
+Fort Carillon, the name of which the English changed to Fort
+Ticonderoga, stood upon a high rocky promontory, the termination of a
+mountain range, the extremity, then called Sugar Loaf Hill, but since
+named Mount Defiance, rising eight hundred and fifty feet above Lake
+Champlain. It is a lofty peninsula, nearly a square mile in surface,
+almost surrounded by water, with a swamp on the western side. When
+Amherst advanced, the French garrison was meagre, for Wolfe was
+threatening Quebec, and Montcalm had gone with reinforcements to repel
+him; so that actually without a struggle they abandoned the fort,
+after blowing up the magazine and burning the barracks. Amherst then
+pushed on to conquer Canada, and the war ending, the British regarded
+this and Crown Point, ten miles northward on Lake Champlain, as among
+their most important posts, commanding the route to the new Dominion.
+Both were greatly enlarged and strengthened, over $10,000,000 being
+expended upon them, an enormous sum for that day, so that they became
+the most elaborate British fortresses in the American colonies, the
+citadel and field works of Ticonderoga including an area of several
+square miles, having buildings and barracks and defensive
+constructions anterior to the Revolution, covering almost the entire
+surface. In 1763 France ceded Canada to England, and afterwards
+Ticonderoga was neglected and partially decayed. When the Revolution
+began in 1775 it was one of the earliest strongholds captured by the
+Americans. Ethan Allen, with eighty men, crossed over Lake Champlain
+from Vermont, surprised the small and unsuspecting garrison of fifty
+men in the night, and Allen, penetrating to the bedside of the
+astonished commandant, made his famous speech demanding surrender. "In
+whose name?" asked the surprised officer. "In the name of the
+great Jehovah and the Continental Congress." The Americans held it for
+two years, when Burgoyne, on his southern march in 1777, besieged it,
+and discovering that Mount Defiance, not then in the works, completely
+commanded it, he dragged cannon up there and erected batteries, which
+soon compelled the garrison to abandon it, and the British were in
+possession until the war closed.
+
+  [Illustration: _Old Fort Ticonderoga_]
+
+Ticonderoga has since fallen into utter decay, but parts of the ruins
+are now preserved as a national memorial. A portion of wall and a
+dilapidated gable enclosing a window still stand, and make a
+picturesque ruin on top of a high slope rising from Lake Champlain,
+with a background of timbered hills. These forests to the west and
+south have grown during the nineteenth century, and are full of the
+remains of the old redoubts and entrenchments. Well-defined dry
+ditches are traced beyond the ramparts, with the barrack walls
+surrounding the parade-ground, an old well, and also the sally-port on
+the water side where Allen and his bold Green Mountain boys effected
+their entrance. During many years after the fort fell into ruins, the
+neighbors carried off its well-cut brick and stone work to build the
+growing villages on Lake Champlain's shores. All the surroundings are
+now eminently peaceful. The invaders, no longer warlike, are on
+pleasure bent; the inhabitants make paper and textiles, saw lumber,
+and also manufacture good lead-pencils from graphite found nearby.
+Sheep contentedly browse amid the relics of the great fortress, and
+vividly recall Browning's pastoral:
+
+     "Where the quiet-colored end of evening smiles
+             Miles and miles
+     On the solitary pasture where our sheep,
+             Half-asleep,
+     Tinkle homeward through the twilight, stray or stop
+             As they crop--
+     Was the site of a city, great and gay,
+             (So they say.)"
+
+
+LAKE CHAMPLAIN.
+
+The elongated and narrow water way of Lake Champlain stretches
+northward one hundred and twenty-six miles, dividing New York from
+Vermont, and its head, south of Ticonderoga, extending to Whitehall,
+is so contracted between generally low and swampy shores, that it
+there seems more like a river than a lake, in some places being
+scarcely two hundred yards across. Northward, however, it broadens
+into a much wider lake, the greatest unobstructed breadth being about
+ten miles, opposite Burlington, Vermont, where it seems to expand
+almost into a sea. The widest part of all is beyond this, being about
+fifteen miles across, but with intervening islands. Over sixty islands
+are scattered about this attractive lake, the contour of the shores
+being very irregular, with numerous indenting bays. The northern
+outlet is by the Richelieu River and the Chambly Rapids into the St.
+Lawrence. Lake Champlain fills a long trough-like valley, bordered by
+mountain ranges. When compared with Lake George, however, its shores
+present a striking difference. There the declivities generally descend
+abruptly to the water, but on Champlain the distant ranges, usually
+far away on either side, have in front, bordering the water, wide
+stretches of meadow and farm land and broad green slopes. Upon the
+Vermont shore the prevailing aspect is a pastoral region, having the
+Green Mountains rising in the distant eastern background. These are
+the "Verts Monts," which the earliest French explorer of the St.
+Lawrence, Jacques Cartier, saw from afar off, when the Indians of
+Hochelaga, where Montreal now stands, took him to the top of their
+mountain--"Mont Real"--to show him the glorious southern landscape.
+These mountains gave Vermont its name, their highest peaks rising
+behind Burlington, Mount Mansfield and the Camel's Hump. The New York
+shore of the lake to the westward presents barren and mountainous
+scenery, the terminations of the Adirondack ranges being occasionally
+pushed out as bold promontories to the water's edge, while behind them
+the higher peaks loom in dark grandeur against the horizon.
+
+The adventurous French warrior and pioneer Samuel de Champlain was the
+first European who sailed upon the waters of Champlain, and he gave
+it his name. Anxious for exploration and adventure, in 1609 he joined
+a band of Huron and Algonquin warriors on an expedition against their
+enemies, the Mohawks and Iroquois in New York. After a grand war-dance
+at Quebec they set out, ascending the St. Lawrence and Richelieu, and
+on July 4th they entered the lake, Champlain having two French
+companions, and the three being armed with arquebuses. As they
+progressed towards the south, nearing the haunts of the Iroquois, they
+travelled only at night, hiding by day in the forest. On July 29th,
+while thus hiding, Champlain fell asleep and had a dream, wherein he
+beheld the Iroquois drowning in the lake, and, trying to rescue them,
+was told by his Huron companions that they were good for nothing, and
+had better be left to their fate. When he awoke he told them of his
+vision, and they were delighted. That very night they observed a
+flotilla of Iroquois canoes, heavier and slower than their own, in
+motion on the lake before them. Each saw the other, and mingled
+war-cries pealed over the dark waters. The Iroquois, not wanting to
+fight on the lake, landed and made a barricade of trees, which they
+cut down. The Hurons lashed their canoes together and remained a
+bowshot off-shore, shouting and dancing all night on their frail
+vessels. It was agreed they should fight in the morning, and until
+dawn the two parties abused each other, shouting taunts and defiance
+"much," writes Champlain, "like the besiegers and besieged in a
+beleaguered town," Champlain and his two companions, as day
+approached, put on their light armor and lay in the bottom of their
+canoes to keep hidden. Soon they all landed unopposed, and then the
+Iroquois, some two hundred in number, came out of their barricade to
+fight. The Hurons, who had surrounded Champlain, now opened their
+ranks, and he passed to the front, levelled his arquebuse and
+fired,--a chief fell dead, and soon another rolled among the bushes.
+Then the Hurons gave a yell, which Champlain says would have drowned a
+thunderclap, and the forest was filled with whizzing arrows. The
+Iroquois for a moment replied lustily, and the other Frenchmen, who
+were in the thicket on their flank, gave successive gunshots, which
+they could not withstand, but soon broke and fled in terror. The
+Hurons pursued them like hounds through the bushes, some were killed
+and more were taken prisoners, and the arquebuse, till now unknown to
+them, had won the victory. Then the victors, with their captives and
+spoils, withdrew to the St. Lawrence; and Champlain had thus assisted
+at the beginning of the awful series of conflicts which these lakes
+witnessed during two centuries. This fight was in the neighborhood of
+Crown Point, on Bulwagga Bay.
+
+The latest of these conflicts on the lake was Commodore McDonough's
+brilliant victory over the British fleet in 1814, since which time the
+history of Lake Champlain has been peaceful. Despite this early
+discovery and naming, however, it was not until long afterwards that
+it was generally known by the present name. The Mohawks and Iroquois,
+as already explained, called it the "Door of the Country." Among their
+other bitter foes were the Abenaqui Indian nation of New England, who
+called it Lake Potoubouque, or "the waters that lie between," that is,
+between their country and the land of the Iroquois. For similar
+reasons the French in Canada called it the "Iroquois Sea." A Dutch
+officer having afterwards been drowned here, both the French and the
+English for a long time styled it after him, "Corlaer's Lake." These
+names, however, all long ago vanished, and since the eighteenth
+century it has borne, undisputed, the name of Champlain, the great
+Father of Canada.
+
+
+CROWN POINT.
+
+Progressing northward from Ticonderoga, the lake suddenly makes a
+right-angled narrow bend to the westward, its channel compressed
+between a broad, flat, low promontory coming up from the south, and
+the protruding opposite shore that encircles and almost meets it.
+These are the Champlain Narrows, the southern promontory being Crown
+Point, and the opposite rock compressing the channel Chimney Point. A
+broad bay opens behind Crown Point to the westward, and under the
+shadow of Mount Bulwagga, the end of one of the long Adirondack
+ranges, is the village of Port Henry, a producer of iron-ores, there
+being furnaces here as well as on the shore south of Crown Point. Upon
+the southern promontory, thus thrust out between the lake and Bulwagga
+Bay, are the ruins of the famous fortress of Crown Point, which so
+well guarded the narrow crooked channel and its approaches, and closed
+the "door of the country" leading from Canada. Soon after Champlain's
+time the French, who held all this region, built a stone fort on the
+opposite point, and ambitiously planned a province, stretching from
+the Connecticut River to Lake Ontario, of which this was to be the
+capital. A town was started, with vineyards and gardens, and the
+"Pointe de la Couronne," as it was called, became widely known. Early
+in the eighteenth century the French built Fort St. Frederic here in
+the form of a five-pointed star, with bastions at the angles, and its
+ruins yet remain, showing traces of limestone walls, barracks, a
+church, and tower. For thirty years this fort was the base of supplies
+for forays on the colonial settlements, but it fell before Lord
+Amherst's march northward in 1759. This English conquest translated
+the "Pointe de la Couronne" into Crown Point, and then the British
+Government constructed enormous works to control the lake passage.
+There thus was built the great English fortress of Crown Point,
+covering the highest parts of the peninsular promontory southwestward
+from the old French fort. The limestone rocks were cut into deeply,
+and ramparts raised twenty-five feet thick and high, the citadel being
+a half-mile around. The ruins of these heavy walls, the ditches,
+spacious parade and demolished barracks, give an idea of the costly
+but obsolete military construction of that time. These extensive works
+were blown up by an exploding powder magazine.
+
+From the northeastern bastion of Crown Point a covered way leads to
+the lake, and here a well was sunk ninety feet deep for a water
+supply. Tradition told of vast treasures concealed by the French, and
+so excited did the people become that a joint-stock company was formed
+to search for them, clearing out the well and making excavations, but
+nothing was found but some lead and iron. The ruins are in lonely
+magnificence to-day, the red-thorn bushes brilliantly adorning them,
+and the place is a popular picnic-ground. From the northern ramparts
+there is a magnificent view of the distant Green Mountains on the
+right hand, with their gentle fields and meadows stretching down to
+the lake, and the rugged Adirondack foothills on the left, the distant
+dark mountain ranges looming far away behind them, with the huge
+broad-capped "Giant of the Valley" standing up prominently. Gazing at
+their sombre contour, the reason can be readily divined why the
+Indians called this vast weird region Cony-a-craga, or the "Dismal
+Wilderness." The higher Adirondack summits, composed of the hardest
+granite, are said by the geologists to be the oldest land on the
+globe and the first showing itself above the universal waters. Some
+distance above Port Henry is Westport Landing, the village standing in
+the deep recesses of Northwest Bay, where the long ridge of Split Rock
+Mountain, stretching towards the northeast, makes a high border for
+the bay. This curious ridge is of historical interest. The outer
+extremity is a cliff thirty feet high, covering about a half-acre, and
+separated from the main ridge by a cleft twelve feet wide cut down
+beneath the water. This cliff was the ancient Rock Reggio, named from
+an Indian chief drowned there, and was for a long time the boundary
+between the New York Iroquois and the Canadian Algonquins, whose lands
+were held respectively by the English and the French. It is mentioned
+in various old Colonial treaties as fixing the boundary between New
+York and Canada, but during the Revolution the Americans passed far
+beyond it, conquering and holding the land for seventy-seven miles
+northward to the present national boundary.
+
+
+THE GREEN MOUNTAINS.
+
+Above, the lake gradually broadens, and at the widest part are seen,
+on opposite sides, the village of Port Kent with its furnaces, and the
+flourishing Vermont city of Burlington. The great Adirondack ridge of
+Trembleau runs abruptly into the water as a sort of guardian to Port
+Kent, and just above, Ausable River flows out through its sandy
+lowlands into the lake. Vermont, which makes the entire eastern shore
+of Champlain, is a region of rural pastoral joys with many herds and
+marble ledges, a land of fat cattle and rich butter-firkins,
+overlooked by mountains of gentle slope and softened outline.
+Southward from Lake Champlain is Bennington, in a mountain-enclosed
+valley, near which was fought in August, 1777, the famous battle in
+which Colonel John Stark's Green Mountain boys cut off and signally
+defeated Baum's detachment of Burgoyne's army. It is now a flourishing
+manufacturing town. East of the head of Lake Champlain is Rutland, the
+centre of the Vermont marble-quarrying industry and the site of the
+great Howe Scale Works, a city of twelve thousand people.
+Three-fourths of the marble produced in the United States comes from
+this district of Vermont, and the Sutherland Falls Quarry at Proctor,
+near Rutland, is said to be probably the largest quarry in the world.
+These quarries are in the flanks of the Green Mountains which stretch
+northward, making the watershed between the upper Connecticut River
+and Lake Champlain. The Killington Peak, forty-two hundred and forty
+feet high, is not far from Rutland.
+
+Mansfield, the chief of the Green Mountains, is behind Burlington, and
+rises forty-three hundred and sixty-four feet. Seen from across the
+lake, it presents the upturned face of a recumbent giant, the southern
+peak being the "Forehead," the middle one the "Nose," and the
+northernmost and highest the "Chin." The latter, as seen against the
+horizon, protrudes upwards in most positive fashion, rising three
+hundred and forty feet higher than the "Nose," about a mile and a half
+distant. This decisive-looking Chin is thus upraised about eight
+hundred feet from the general contour of the mountain, while the Nose
+is thrust upward four hundred and sixty feet, its nostril being seen
+in an almost perpendicular wall of rock facing the north. Mansfield is
+heavily timbered until near the summit, and a hotel is perched up
+there at the base of the Nose, both Nose and Chin being composed of
+rock ledges, which have been deeply scratched by boulders dragged over
+them in the glacial period. These Green Mountains extend down from
+Canada, and terminate in the Taghkanic and Hoosac ranges of Berkshire
+in Massachusetts. They do not attain very high elevations, the Camel's
+Hump, south of Mansfield, rising forty-one hundred and eighty-eight
+feet. This was the "Leon Couchant" of the earliest French explorers,
+and it bears a much better resemblance to a recumbent lion than to a
+camel's back. The western slopes of these mountains are chiefly red
+sandstone, while their body and eastern declivities are granite,
+gneiss and similar rocks, and they are filled with valuable mineral
+products, marbles, slates and iron-ores. Their slopes have fine
+pastures of rich and nutritious grasses, and the green and rounded
+summits present a striking contrast to the lofty, bare and often
+jagged peaks of the White Mountains of New Hampshire beyond them.
+There are cultivated lands on their slopes, at an elevation as high as
+twenty-five hundred feet, and in and about them are the forests
+producing the dear, delicious maple sugar:
+
+     "Down in the bush where the maple trees grow,
+     There's a soft, moist fall of the first sugar snow;
+       And the camp-fires gleam,
+       And the big kettles steam,
+     For the maple-sugar season has arrived, you know;
+       And these are the days when you'll find on tap
+       The sweetest of juices, which is pure maple sap."
+
+
+BURLINGTON AND MONTPELIER.
+
+Burlington, the chief Vermont city, is built on the sloping hillside
+of a grandly curving bay, making a resemblance to Naples and its bay,
+which has inspired a local poet to address the city as "Thou lovely
+Naples of our midland sea." It has fifteen thousand people, and its
+prosperity has been largely from the lumber trade, the logs coming
+chiefly from Canadian and Adirondack forests. It is attractive, with
+broad tree-embowered streets, the elm and maple growing in luxuriance,
+while the hills run up behind the town into high summits. One of
+these, the College Hill, rising nearly four hundred feet, has the fine
+buildings of the University of Vermont, attended by six hundred
+students, its tower giving a superb outlook over Lake Champlain, which
+at sunset is one of the most gorgeous scenes ever looked upon.
+Lafayette laid the corner-stone of this college on his American visit
+in 1825, and his statue in sturdy bronze adorns the grounds. The
+finest college building is the Billings Library, presented by
+Frederick Billings, a projector, and once President of the Northern
+Pacific Railway. All about these hills there are attractive villas and
+estates, enjoying the view, of which President Dwight wrote, when
+wandering over New England in search of the historic and picturesque,
+that "splendor of landscape is the peculiar boast of Burlington." On
+the northern verge of College Hill is the city's burial-place of the
+olden time--Green Mount Cemetery. Here Ethan Allen is buried, a tall
+Tuscan monument surmounted by a statue marking the spot, which is
+enclosed by a curious fence made of cannon at the corners and muskets
+with fixed bayonets. Allen lived at Burlington during his later life,
+dying there in February, 1789.
+
+College Hill falls off to the northward to a broad intervale, down
+which winds the romantic Winooski or Onion River, flowing into Lake
+Champlain a short distance above Burlington. It comes out of a gorge
+in the Green Mountains, where it falls down pretty cascades and
+rapids. This Winooski gorge was a dreaded defile in the early days of
+the New England frontier, for by this route the fierce Hurons came
+through those mountains from Champlain and Canada to make forays upon
+the Massachusetts and New Hampshire border settlements. This gorge
+passes between Mount Mansfield and the Camel's Hump. To the northward
+is the noted "Smuggler's Notch" beyond the Chin of Mansfield, between
+it and Mount Sterling beyond, the name having been given because in
+the olden time contraband goods were brought through its gloomy
+recesses from Canada into New England. An affluent of the Winooski,
+the Waterbury River, comes out of this notch, a rapid stream. Upon the
+upper Winooski is Montpelier, the Vermont State Capital, pleasantly
+situated among the mountains near the centre of the commonwealth. Its
+State House is a fine structure of light granite, surmounted by a
+lofty dome. Massive Doric columns support its grand portico, under
+which stands the statue, in Vermont marble, of Ethan Allen, by
+Vermont's great sculptor, Larkin G. Mead. Here are also two old cannon
+which Stark captured from the Hessians at Bennington. They were
+afterwards used by the Americans with good effect throughout the
+Revolution, and subsequently were part of the army equipment taken to
+the western frontier. In the War of 1812 the British captured them in
+Hull's surrender at Detroit, but they were recaptured in a subsequent
+battle in Canada, and were sent as trophies to Washington. Congress
+ultimately gave them to Vermont, and they were placed in the State
+Capitol as relics of the battle of Bennington. Admiral George Dewey is
+a native of Montpelier, born there December 26, 1837. St. Albans, a
+great railroad centre and market for dairy products, is north of
+Burlington, near Lake Champlain, a picturesque New England town, with
+the elm-shaded central square. It is fourteen miles from the Canada
+border, and an important customs station. Of it, Henry Ward Beecher
+wrote that "St. Albans is a place in the midst of greater variety of
+scenic beauty than any other I remember in America."
+
+
+AUSABLE CHASM.
+
+One of the chief Adirondack rivers flowing into Lake Champlain is the
+Ausable. Its branches come out of the heart of the mountains, one
+through the beautiful Keene Valley and the other through the
+Wilmington Notch, and uniting at Ausable Forks, it flows along the
+northwestern side of the long ridge terminating in Trembleau Point at
+Port Kent, and enters the lake just above. The river escapes from the
+mountains through the wonderful gorge of Ausable Chasm. It is an
+active stream, bringing down vast amounts of sand, which wash through
+this gorge and are spread over the flats north of Trembleau, where the
+river flows out through two mouths. These prolific sand-bars, when
+first seen by the French, caused them to name the stream Ausable, the
+"river of sands." This renowned chasm, in its colossal magnificence
+and bold rending of the hard sandstone strata, is one of the wonders
+of America. A local poet has written on a little kiosk adjoining the
+river chasm this rhythmic explanation of its origin:
+
+     "Nature one day had a spasm
+     With grand result--Ausable Chasm."
+
+This splendid gorge, cut down in getting out of the highlands, is
+carved in the hardest Potsdam sandstones. It is a profound, and in
+most of its length a very narrow chasm, with almost vertical walls
+from seventy to one hundred and fifty feet high, the torrent pouring
+through the bottom being compressed within a width of eight to thirty
+feet, and rushing with quick velocity. The chasm is about two miles
+long, having several sharp bends, the stratified walls being built up
+almost like artificial masonry. The sides are frequently cut by
+lateral fissures, making remarkable formations, and the tops of the
+enclosing crags are fringed with a dense growth of cedars. The river
+of dark amber-colored water first comes out of the forest past
+Keeseville, where mills avail of its water-power, and then pours over
+the ledges of the Alice Falls, the finest in the Adirondacks. This
+splendid cataract of forty feet descent is above the entrance to the
+gorge, much of it being an almost sheer fall, having magnificent
+foaming watery stairways down the ledges, bordering it with their
+delicate lacework on either hand. The dark waters tumble in large
+volume into an immense amphitheatre, which has been rounded out by the
+torrent during past ages. Then bending sharply to the right, the
+river goes down some rapids and over a mill-dam built just above the
+chasm. The opening of this extraordinary rent in the earth is
+startling. Suddenly the river pours over a short fall, and then down
+another deep one strangely constructed, the line of the cataract being
+almost in the line of the stream. These are the Birmingham Falls, down
+which the Ausable plunges into the deep abyss, while high above stands
+a picturesque stone mill whose wheels are turned by the waters, and
+just below a light iron bridge carries a railway over the gorge.
+
+It is difficult to describe the profound chasm opening below the
+Birmingham Falls. It is a prodigious rent in the earth's crust, making
+sudden right-angled turns. The visitor at first goes down a long
+stairway and walks on the rocky floor adjoining the torrent, enormous
+walls rising high above. There are various formations made by the
+boiling waters, ovens, anvils, chairs, pulpits, punch-bowls and the
+like, and, judging by their names, the Devil seems to be the owner of
+most of them. The chasm turns sharply around the "Elbow," and the
+waters rush through the narrow passage of "Hell Gate." There are many
+caves and lateral fissures, all the masonry being hewn square, as in
+fact the whole gorge is, such being the regularity of the
+stratification and the accuracy of the angles and joints,--the
+ponderous walls, reared on high, sometimes almost close together,
+making the deep pass narrow and gloomy. The gorge finally contracts so
+much there is no further room for walking, and a boat is taken for the
+remainder of the journey down the "Grand Flume." The torrent carries
+the boat along swiftly, guided by strong oarsmen both at bow and
+stern, swinging quickly around the bends, shooting the rapids and
+whirling through the eddies. After rushing along the "Flume,"
+embracing the narrowest portions of the profound chasm, the boat
+finally floats out into the "Pool," where the waters at length settle
+into rest as they pass from the broken-down sandstone strata to the
+flat land beyond, where the river flows through its two mouths into
+the lake.
+
+
+PLATTSBURG AND ITS NAVAL BATTLE.
+
+Northward from Ausable River, Lake Champlain contains a number of
+large islands. Valeur Island is near the New York shore, and in the
+narrow channel separating them, in 1776, a desperate naval contest was
+fought between Arnold and Carleton, resulting in the defeat of the
+Americans. Beyond are the large islands of Grand Isle, South Hero and
+North Hero. Standing in an admirable position on Bluff Point, a high
+promontory on the western shore, is the great Hotel Champlain,
+elevated two hundred feet above the lake. To the north the Saranac
+River, coming from the southwest, flows out of the Adirondacks through
+its red sandstone gorge into Cumberland Bay, and at its mouth is the
+pleasant town of Plattsburg, having a population of seven thousand.
+The broad peninsula of Cumberland Head, projecting far to the
+southward into the lake, encloses the bay in front of the town.
+Plattsburg's greatest fame comes from its battle and Commodore
+McDonough's victory in 1814. The earliest settler was a British army
+officer, one Count de Fredenburgh, who built a sawmill at a fall near
+the mouth of the Saranac; but he was made way with early in the
+Revolution, and many have been the startling tales since told of his
+ghostly figure, in red coat and knee-breeches, stalking about the
+ruins of the old mill at Fredenburgh Falls. After the war, New York
+State confiscated the property and gave it to Zephaniah Platt and his
+associates, who established the town, and in 1785 rebuilt the mill.
+Plattsburg had become a place of so much importance that in the War of
+1812-15 the English sent a large force from Canada for its capture.
+They attacked it on a Sunday morning in September, 1814, Sir George
+Prevost commanding the land forces and Commodore Downie a fleet of
+sixteen vessels. General Macomb had a small American detachment
+entrenched on the southern bank of the Saranac in hastily constructed
+earthworks, some remains being yet visible. The naval contest,
+however, decided the day, the superior British fleet being overcome by
+the better American tactics. McDonough had but fourteen vessels,
+anchored in a double line across the mouth of Cumberland Bay. As the
+British fleet rounded Cumberland Head to make the attack, a cock that
+was aboard McDonough's flag-ship, the "Saratoga," suddenly flew upon a
+gun and crowed lustily. This was esteemed a good omen, and giving
+three cheers, the Americans went to work with a will. After two hours'
+conflict the British fleet was defeated and captured. Downie was
+killed early in the action, and with fifteen other officers sleeps in
+Plattsburg Cemetery. McDonough was crushed by a falling boom, and
+afterwards was stunned by being struck with the flying head of one of
+his officers, knocked off by a cannon-shot, but he was undaunted to
+the end. Honors were heaped upon him, Congress giving him a gold
+medal, and he was also presented with an estate upon Cumberland Head
+overlooking the scene of his victory.
+
+Plattsburg has the chief United States military post on the Canadian
+border, there being usually a large force stationed at the extensive
+barracks. It is also the terminus of railways coming from the
+Adirondacks, originally built to fetch out the iron-ores, of which it
+is an active market. One of these railways comes from Ausable Forks.
+Another is the Chateaugay Railroad, which has a circuitous route
+around the northern and eastern verges of the wilderness, from the
+Chateaugay and Chazy Lakes, where are the ore beds in a dismal region.
+Lyon Mountain, one of the chief ore producers, has its mines at two
+thousand feet elevation above the lake. Stretching far away to the
+northward is the immense Chateaugay forest and wilderness, extending
+into Canada. This railroad passes Dannemora, where is located the
+Clinton Prison, a New York State institution, at which it is said
+"they always have a number of people of leisure, who pass their time
+in meditation, making nails, cracking ore, and in other congenial
+pursuits." The railroad route cuts into the red sandstone gorge of the
+Saranac, and follows its valley out to Plattsburg. Some distance north
+of Plattsburg, and at the Canadian boundary, is Rouse's Point, a
+border customs station. This is the northern end of Lake Champlain,
+which discharges through the Richelieu or Sorel River into the St.
+Lawrence, the waters descending about one hundred feet, and mostly by
+the Chambly Rapids. The Chambly Canal, which locks down this descent,
+provides navigation facilities from Champlain to the St. Lawrence
+waters.
+
+
+ENTERING THE ADIRONDACKS.
+
+From Westport on Lake Champlain is one of the favorite routes into the
+Adirondacks. The name of this dark region originally came from the
+Mohawks, who applied it in derision to the less fortunate savages that
+inhabited the forbidding forests. The luxurious Mohawk, living in
+fertile valleys growing plenty of corn, could see nothing for his
+dusky enemy in this dismal wilderness to eat, excepting the dark
+trees growing on its mountain sides, and therefore the Mohawk called
+these people the Adirondacks, or "the bark and wood eaters." The
+actual derivation of the word is thought to come from the Iroquois
+root "atiron," meaning "to stretch along," referring to the mountain
+chains. Starting from Westport, we penetrate the region by a steep
+road into the Raven Pass, known as the "Gate of the Adirondacks,"
+going through one of the ridges, among juniper bushes and aspen
+poplars, and thus get to the pleasant valley beyond, where flows the
+lovely Bouquet River. Here are a bunch of red-roofed cottages
+surrounded by elms contrasting prettily with the green fields, with
+boarding-houses and hotels interspersed, making up the village of
+Elizabethtown, the county-seat of Essex, which is hereabout called
+E-Town, for short. It spreads over the flat bottom of a fertile
+valley, encompassed around by high mountains. Circling all over the
+valley and yet concealed in deep gorges is the Bouquet River, which
+flows out to Lake Champlain, near the Split Rock. To the westward
+rises the sharp bare granite top of Mount Hurricane, nearly
+thirty-eight hundred feet, and to the southwest the towering Giant of
+the Valley, over forty-five hundred feet. Cobble Hill, rising two
+thousand feet, closes up the western end of the main village street,
+its ball-like top being a complete reproduction of a huge
+cobble-stone. Out to the northward goes a wild mountain road, through
+the Poke o' Moonshine Pass, leading to Ausable Chasm, twenty-three
+miles away.
+
+Travelling westward from E-Town, we mount the enclosing slope of the
+Pleasant Valley, and through the gorge alongside Mount Hurricane, up
+the canyon of the western branch of Bouquet River. Crossing the summit
+among the granite rocks and forests, we then descend into another
+long, trough-like valley, stretching as a broad intervale far away
+both north and south, through which flows Ausable River. This
+intervale includes the charming "Flats of Keene," the sparkling
+Ausable waters meandering quietly over them beneath overhanging maples
+and alders, quivering aspens and gracefully swaying elms, occasionally
+dancing among the stones and shingle in some gentle rapid. Here are
+farmhouses, with many villas, the great mountain ridges protecting the
+valley from the wintry blasts. This intervale has in the eastern ridge
+the Giant of the Valley, with Mount Dix alongside, rising nearly five
+thousand feet, and to the southward, reared thirty-five hundred feet,
+exactly at the meridian, is the graceful Noon Mark Mountain, which
+casts the sun's noon shadow northward over the centre of the "Flats of
+Keene." The river, coming from the south, flows out of the lower
+Ausable Lake or the Long Pond, and dashes swiftly down its
+boulder-covered bed. Its waters are gathered largely from the eastern
+flanks of Mount Tahawus, and also from the galaxy of attendant
+peaks--Dix, Noon Mark, Colvin, Boreas, the Gothics, and
+others--grandly encircling the southern head of the attractive Keene
+Valley. The Ausable River rises under the brow of Tahawus, and flowing
+through the two long and narrow Ausable Lakes at two thousand feet
+elevation, traverses the whole length of the Keene Valley northward,
+to unite with its western branch at Ausable Forks, and thence goes
+through the great chasm to Lake Champlain. The head of the Keene
+Valley with the adjacent mountain slopes, extending through parts of
+three counties and covering a tract of forty square miles, is the
+"Adirondack Mountain Reserve." This reservation gives complete
+protection to the fish and game, and also preserves the forests and
+sources of the water supply. The Lower Ausable Lake is about two miles
+long and the Upper Ausable Lake nearly the same length, there being
+over a mile's distance between them. Some of the highest and most
+romantic of the Adirondack peaks environ these lakes. The sharply-cut
+summit of Mount Colvin rises forty-one hundred and fifty feet
+alongside them. The Ausable Lakes are in the bottom of a deep cleft
+between these great mountains, their sides rising almost sheer, two
+thousand feet and more above them. The lake shores are steep and rocky
+walls, reared apparently to the sky, the deep and contracted cleft
+making the lakes look more like rivers, surmounted high up the rocks
+by overhanging foliage, the trees diminutive in the distance. Of the
+Upper Ausable Lake, Warner writes that "In the sweep of its wooded
+shores, and the lovely contour of the lofty mountains that guard it,
+this lake is probably the most charming in America."
+
+
+ADIRONDACK ATTRACTIONS.
+
+The western guardian peaks of the Keene Valley are the main range of
+the Adirondacks, including Mount Marcy or Tahawus. Mount Colvin,
+alongside the Ausable Lakes, was named in honor of Verplanck Colvin,
+the New York surveyor and geologist, who devoted years of energy to
+the survey of this wilderness, and perhaps knew it better than anyone
+else. He was always in love with it, and thought that few really
+understood it. He described it as "a peculiar region, for though the
+geographical centre of the wilderness may be readily reached, in the
+light canoe-like boats of the guides, by lakes and rivers which form a
+labyrinth of passages for boats, the core, or rather cores, of this
+wilderness extend on either hand from these broad avenues of water,
+and in their interior spots remain to-day as untrodden by men and as
+unknown and wild as when the Indian paddled his birchen boat upon
+those streams and lakes. Amid these mountain solitudes are places
+where, in all probability, the foot of man never trod; and here the
+panther has his den among the rocks, and rears his savage kittens
+undisturbed, save by the growl of bear and screech of lynx, or the
+hoarse croak of the raven taking its share of the carcass of slain
+deer." The tangled Adirondack forest may to some seem monotonous and
+even dreary, but Mr. Street, the poet-writer of the region, thus
+enthusiastically refers to it: "Select a spot; let the eye become a
+little accustomed to the scene, and how the picturesque beauties, the
+delicate minute charms, the small overlooked things, steal out like
+lurking tints in an old picture. See that wreath of fern, graceful as
+the garland of a Greek victor at the games; how it hides the dark,
+crooked root, writhing snake-like from yon beech! Look at the beech's
+instep steeped in moss, green as emerald, with other moss twining
+round the silver-spotted trunk in garlands or in broad, thick, velvety
+spots! Behold yonder stump, charred with the hunter's camp-fire, and
+glistening black and satin-like in its cracked ebony! Mark yon mass of
+creeping pine, mantling the black mould with furzy softness! View
+those polished cohosh-berries, white as drops of pearl! See the purple
+barberries and crimson clusters of the hopple, contrasting their vivid
+hues!--and the massive logs peeled by decay--what gray, downy
+smoothness! and the grasses in which they are weltering--how full of
+beautiful motions and outlines!"
+
+From the Keene Valley we climb up the gorge of a brisk little brook to
+the westward, and passing through the notch between Long Pond Mountain
+and the precipitous sides of the well-named Pitch-Off Mountain, come
+to the pair of elongated deep and narrow ponds between them,--the
+Cascade Lakes,--stretching nearly two miles. Huge boulders line their
+banks with a wall of rough and ponderous masonry, entwined with the
+roots of trees, and like the Ausable Lakes, they are another Alpine
+formation, their surfaces being at twenty-one hundred feet elevation,
+yet resting in the bottom of a tremendous chasm. An unique cascade,
+falling in successive leaps for seven hundred and fifty feet down the
+southern enclosing mountain wall, has given them the name--a delicate
+white lace ribbon of foaming water, finally passing into the lower
+lake. The grand dome of Mount McIntyre, in the main Adirondack range,
+rises in majesty to an elevation of fifty-two hundred feet, a sentinel
+beyond the western entrance to this remarkable pass. Formerly
+iron-ores were found here, but iron-making has been abandoned for the
+more profitable occupation of caring for the summer tourist. Beyond
+these lakes the summit of the pass is crossed, and there is a farm or
+two upon a broad plateau, at twenty-five hundred feet elevation, the
+highest cultivated land in New York State. Comparatively little but
+hay, however, can be raised, the seasons are so short and fickle. Deer
+haunt this remote region, and their runways can be seen. Emerging from
+the pass, with the little streams all running westward to the
+Ausable's western branch, there is got a fine view of the main
+Adirondack range, with the massive Mount McIntyre and the almost
+perpendicular side of Wallface rising beyond, the deep notch of the
+famous Indian Pass, cut down between them, showing plainly. Both peaks
+tower grandly above a surrounding galaxy of bleak, dark mountains.
+
+
+OLD JOHN BROWN OF OSAWATOMIE.
+
+This broad flat valley of the Western Ausable, the stream winding
+through it in a deeply-cut gorge, and surrounded on the south and west
+by an amphitheatre of the highest Adirondack peaks, is the township of
+North Elba in Essex county; and the valley and its fertile borders are
+the "Plains of Abraham." It is a farming district, so well enclosed by
+the mountains that the soil is fairly tillable. These plains gradually
+slope northwestward to the banks of two of the most noted of the
+Adirondack waters, Lake Placid and the Mirror Lake, with old Whiteface
+Mountain for their guardian, "heaving high his forehead bare." Here
+are the scattered buildings of the village of North Elba on the
+plains, and the more modern and fashionable settlement beyond at the
+lakes. To the southward is the great rounded top of Tahawus, the
+highest Adirondack peak, displayed through an opening vista, and at
+the northern border grandly stands Whiteface, the black sides abruptly
+changing to white, where an avalanche years ago denuded the granite
+cliffs near the top and swept down all the trees. Here at North Elba
+was the home and farm of "Old John Brown of Osawatomie." He had been
+given this homestead by Gerrit Smith, the great New York Abolitionist,
+in 1849, and there had also been founded here a colony of refuge for
+the negro slaves. It was then a remote and almost unknown place in the
+wilderness. Brown settled in the colony and built his little log house
+and barn near a huge boulder which stood a short distance from the
+front door. Here he formed his plan for liberating the slaves, and
+from here went to engage in the Kansas border wars of 1856. Returning,
+for three years he brooded on plans to liberate the negroes, and after
+further conflicts in Kansas projected the expedition into Virginia for
+the capture of Harper's Ferry in October, 1859. He declared his object
+to be to free all the slaves, and that he acted "by the authority of
+God Almighty." After his capture and conviction he discouraged efforts
+at liberation, saying, "I am of more use to the cause dead than
+living." After his death his body was brought up here to his home in
+the wilderness, for he had said, "When I die, bury me by the big rock,
+where I love to sit and read the word of God." Here he was buried on a
+bitterly cold day in December, 1859, a few sorrowing friends
+conducting the services and covering up his body in the frozen ground.
+
+The old gravestone of his grandfather was brought from New England and
+put at the head of the grave, but it was soon so chipped off and
+broken by relic-hunters, it had to be enclosed in a case for
+preservation. Behind the grave rises the huge boulder on which has
+been carved, in large letters, "John Brown, 1859." The old gravestone
+is full of names both front and back, containing the record of his own
+death, and that of three sons, two losing their lives at Harper's
+Ferry and one in Kansas. The record of his life, graven on the stone,
+is: "John Brown, born May 9, 1800, was executed at Charleston, Va.,
+Dec. 2, 1859." It is here that
+
+     "John Brown's body lies a-mouldering in the grave,
+             And his soul goes marching on."
+
+Forty years afterwards, in 1899, the remains of seven of his
+companions in the Harper's Ferry raid were removed here and interred
+beside him. This region no longer knows Brown's kindred, for all have
+disappeared. Yet in the world's mutations, nothing could be more
+strange than that this remote wilderness, originally selected as a
+refuge and hiding-place for runaway slaves, should have become one of
+the most fashionable and popular health resorts in America. The farm
+and graves are now kept by New York State as a public park.
+
+
+LAKE PLACID TO PAUL SMITH'S.
+
+Lake Placid, nestling at the base of old Whiteface and elevated
+eighteen hundred and sixty feet above the sea, is often called the
+"Eye of the Adirondacks." Its mountain environment has made it almost
+a rectangle, four miles long and two miles wide. Down its centre,
+arranged in a row, are three beautiful islands, named respectively the
+Hawk, Moose and Buck, two being large and high and the third smaller.
+These divide it into alternating spaces of land and water much like a
+chess-board. To the eastward is the pretty Mirror Lake, about three
+miles in circuit. Both lakes have high wooded shores, and around them
+are gathered the hotels, cottages and camps of a large summer
+settlement. Surrounded by a grander galaxy of finer and higher
+mountains than any other lakes of this region, here is truly the "Eye"
+that views these dark Adirondacks in all their glory. These mountains
+are all sombre, and some almost inky black; many are hazy in the
+distance. To the northeast the Wilmington Pass, alongside Whiteface,
+lets out the western branch of Ausable; to the southward, the Indian
+Pass opening between McIntyre and Wallface is a source of the Hudson;
+to the westward, on the spurs of lower ranges, are the forests
+separating these lakes from the Saranacs. There are more than a
+hundred peaks around, of varying heights and features, among them the
+greatest of the Adirondacks. Embosomed within this wonderful
+amphitheatre is the glassy-surfaced lake, protected from the winds and
+storms, which is so attractive and so peaceful that it fully deserves
+its name, Lake Placid.
+
+Crossing again to the westward through the forests and over the
+ridges, we come into the valley of the Saranac, with its lakes, and
+the ancient village of Harrietstown under the long ridge of Ampersand
+Mountain. Here on the Lower Saranac Lake is another summer settlement
+of villas, hotels and camps. Behind the mountain there is a little
+lake out of which flows a stream so crooked and twisted into and out
+of itself, turning around sweeping circles without accomplishing much
+progress, that its discoverers could not liken it to anything more
+appropriate than to the eccentric supernumerary of the alphabet, the
+"&." Thus the name of the "Ampersand" of the old spelling-books was
+applied first to the stream, and then to the lake and mountain, the
+latter being the guardian of the many lakes of this region. The Lower
+Saranac Lake is at fifteen hundred and forty feet elevation, and the
+Ampersand Mountain rises a thousand feet above it. A pretty church in
+the village is appropriately named for St. Luke the Physician, and
+here is located the Adirondack Sanitarium, this district being a
+favorite refuge for consumptives. The Chateaugay railroad comes in
+here, but the district beyond to the south and west has neither
+railroads nor wagon roads. It is such a labyrinth of lakes and water
+courses it can only be traversed in boats.
+
+The whole western part of the Adirondacks is an elevated tableland,
+containing many hills and peaks, but saturated by water ways.
+Therefore "canoeing and carrying" is the method of transportation.
+The Lower Saranac Lake is five miles long, and beyond it is Round
+Lake, over two miles in diameter, beyond that being the Upper Saranac
+Lake, nearly eight miles long and dotted with islands. There are
+portages between them where the canoes have to be carried. The outlet
+of the Upper Saranac is a magnificent cataract and rapid, descending
+thirty-five feet in a distance of about one hundred yards. From the
+Upper Saranac Lake other portages, or "carrys," as they are called,
+lead over to the Blue Mountain region, the Raquette River and the
+Tupper Lakes to the westward. The Adirondack ranges here are lower,
+and the forests get denser, but all about are dotted the summer
+settlements, some of them displaying most elaborate construction.
+Every place has its boat-house and canoe-rack, and boats are moving in
+all directions. At the head of the Upper Saranac is St. Regis
+Mountain, and a long "carry" of about four miles through the forest
+goes over to the Big Clear Pond, the head of the Saranac system of
+waters. Crossing this lake, yet another "carry" takes us over the
+watershed. This is a famous portage in the liquid district, the "St.
+Germain carry" of over a mile between the Saranac headwaters and the
+sources of St. Regis River, flowing out westward and then northward to
+the St. Lawrence. It leads to the series of St. Regis Lakes, and
+finally on the bank of the Lower St. Regis to the great hotel of the
+woods--Paul Smith's--with many camps surrounding the shores of the
+lake. Apollus Smith, a shrewd Yankee, came here many years ago, when
+the locality was an unbroken wilderness, and built a small log house
+in the forest as an abiding-place for the hunter and angler. It was
+repeatedly enlarged, and with it the domain, now covering several
+thousand acres, until the hostelrie has become an unique mixture of
+the backwoods with modern fashion, and is everywhere known as the
+typical house of the Adirondack region. Upon the hill behind the hotel
+is the attractive little church of "St. John in the Wilderness,"
+appropriately built of logs hewn in the surrounding forest.
+
+
+ADIRONDACK LAKES.
+
+To the westward is the water system of the Raquette River, leading to
+the St. Lawrence; this stream, the chief one in the district, flowing
+out of Raquette Lake. This lake is irregularly shaped, about ten miles
+long, and surrounded by low hills, its elevation being nearly eighteen
+hundred feet. The dense forests that are adjacent teem with game, and
+its hotels and private camps are among the best in the region, "Camp
+Pine Knot" being especially famous as the most elaborate and
+attractive of its kind in America. Blue Mountain rises to the eastward
+nearly thirty-eight hundred feet, and at its southwestern base is the
+Blue Mountain Lake, having on its southern edge the small Eagle Lake,
+where lived in a solitary house called the Eagle's Nest the noted "Ned
+Buntline," the author. To the southwest of Raquette are the chain of
+eight Fulton Lakes. North of Raquette are the Forked Lakes, and
+northeast of it, following down the Raquette River, Long Lake, which
+is fourteen miles long and barely a mile wide in the broadest part,
+having Mount Seward rising at its northern end. To the northwest,
+still following down the Raquette, are the Tupper Lakes. These are a
+few of the larger lakes in this labyrinth of water courses, there
+being hundreds of smaller ones; and, as the forest and water ways
+extend northwest, the land gradually falls away towards the great
+plain adjoining the St. Lawrence. These regions, however, are remote
+from ordinary travel, and the western Adirondack forests are rarely
+penetrated by visitors excepting in search of sport.
+
+This wonderful region has only during recent years attracted general
+public attention as a great sanitarium and summer resort, but its
+popularity constantly increases. Its dark and forbidding mountains
+have become additionally attractive as they are better known, probably
+for the reason, as John Ruskin tells us, that "Mountains are the
+beginning and the end of all natural scenery." Its universal woods and
+waters have a resistless charm. As one wanders through the devious
+pathways, or glides over the glassy surface of one of its myriad
+lakes, the vivid coloring and richness of the plant life recall
+Thomson, in the _Seasons_:
+
+                       "Who can paint
+     Like Nature? Can imagination boast
+     Amid its gay creation hues like her's?
+     Or can it mix them with that matchless skill,
+     And lose them in each other, as appears
+     In every bud that blows?"
+
+But after all, the great Adirondack forests, vast and trackless, much
+of them in their primitive wildness, are to the visitor possibly the
+grandest of the charms of this weird region. The "Great North Woods"
+still exist as the primeval forest on many square miles of these broad
+mountains and deep valleys, recalling in their solitude and grandeur
+William Cullen Bryant's _Forest Hymn_:
+
+     "The groves were God's first temples. Ere man learned
+     To hew the shaft and lay the architrave,
+     And spread the roof above them--ere he framed
+     The lofty vault, to gather and roll back
+     The sound of anthems; in the darkling wood,
+     Amidst the cool and silence he knelt down
+     And offered to the Mightiest solemn thanks
+     And supplication."
+
+
+
+
+CROSSING THE EMPIRE STATE.
+
+
+
+
+XIII.
+
+CROSSING THE EMPIRE STATE.
+
+     The Mohawk Valley -- Cohoes and its Falls -- Occuna's Death --
+     Erie Canal -- De Witt Clinton -- New York Central Railroad --
+     Mohawk and Hudson Railroad -- Schenectady -- Union College --
+     Amsterdam -- Fort Johnson -- Sir William Johnson -- Johnstown
+     -- The Iroquois or Six Nations -- Senecas -- Red Jacket --
+     Cayugas -- Onondagas -- Oneidas -- Tuscaroras -- Mohawks --
+     Joseph Brant -- The Noses -- Little Falls -- Herkimer -- Utica
+     -- Classic Names -- Rome -- Trenton Falls -- Lake Ontario --
+     The Lake Ridge -- Black River -- Cazenovia Lake -- Oneida Lake
+     -- Oneida Community -- Oswego River -- Oswego -- Onondaga Lake
+     -- Syracuse -- Salt Making -- Syracuse University -- Otisco
+     Lake -- Skaneateles Lake -- Owasco Lake -- Auburn -- William H.
+     Seward -- Cayuga Lake -- Ithaca -- Fall Creek -- Cascadilla
+     Creek -- Taghanic Falls -- Cornell University -- Ezra Cornell
+     -- John McGraw -- Seneca Lake -- Havana Glen -- Watkins Glen --
+     Geneva -- Hobart College -- Seneca River -- Keuka Lake -- Penn
+     Yan -- Hammondsport -- Canandaigua Lake and Town -- Canisteo
+     River -- Hornellsville -- Painted Post -- Corning -- Chemung
+     River -- Elmira -- Genesee River -- Portage Falls -- Genesee
+     Level -- Mount Morris -- Council House of Cascadea -- Geneseo
+     -- Rochester and its Falls -- Sam Patch -- Medina Sandstones --
+     Lockport -- Chautauqua Lake -- Chautauqua Assembly --
+     Pennsylvania Triangle -- Erie -- Perry's Victory -- Captain
+     Gridley's Grave -- Dunkirk -- Buffalo -- Sieur de la Salle and
+     the Griffin -- Grain Elevators -- Prospect Park -- Fort Porter
+     -- Fort Erie -- Niagara River -- Grand Island -- Niagara Falls
+     -- Niagara Rapids -- Father Hennepin's Description -- Charles
+     Dickens -- Professor Tyndall -- Anthony Trollope -- Geological
+     Formation -- Appearance of Niagara -- Goat Island -- Luna
+     Island -- Cave of the Winds -- Terrapin Rocks -- Three Sisters
+     Islands -- The Horseshoe -- Condemned Ship Michigan -- Lower
+     Rapids -- Whirlpool -- Niagara Electric Power -- Massacre of
+     Devil's Hole -- Battles of Queenston Heights, Chippewa and
+     Lundy's Lane.
+
+
+THE FALLS AT COHOES.
+
+The valley of the Mohawk River provides one of the best routes for
+crossing the Empire State, from the Hudson over to Lake Erie. Within
+sight of the Hudson, the Mohawk pours down its noble cataract at
+Cohoes. This is a waterfall of nearly a thousand feet width, the
+descent being seventy-eight feet. The banks on either side are quite
+high, with foliage crowning their summits, and between is a
+perpendicular wall of dark-brown rocks making the cataract, having a
+sort of diagonal stratification that breaks the sombre face into
+rifts. In a freshet this is a wonderful fall, the swollen stream
+becoming a dark amber-colored torrent with adornments of foam, making
+a small Niagara. The river is dammed about a mile above, so that at
+times almost the whole current is drawn off to turn the mill-wheels of
+Cohoes, making paper and manufacturing much wool and cotton, one of
+its leading establishments being the "Harmony Knitting Mills." In
+digging for the foundations of its great buildings alongside the
+river, this corporation several years ago exhumed one of the most
+perfect skeletons of a mastodon now existing, which is in the State
+Museum at Albany. Cohoes has about twenty-five thousand population,
+and its name comes from the Iroquois word Coh-hoes, meaning a "canoe
+falling." A brisk rapid runs above the falls, and a touching Indian
+legend tells how the rapid and fall were named. Occuna was a young
+Seneca warrior (one of the Iroquois tribes), and with his affianced
+was carelessly paddling in a canoe at the head of the rapid, when
+suddenly the current drew them down towards the cataract. Escape being
+impossible, they began the melancholy death-song in responsive chants,
+and prepared to meet the Great Spirit. Occuna began: "Daughter of a
+mighty warrior; the Great Manitou calls me hence; he bids me hasten
+into his presence; I hear his voice in the stream; I see his spirit in
+the moving of the waters; the light of his eyes danceth upon the swift
+rapids." The maiden responded, "Art thou not thyself a great warrior,
+O Occuna? Hath not thy tomahawk been often bathed in the red blood of
+thine enemies? Hath the fleet deer ever escaped thy arrow, or the
+beaver eluded thy chase? Why, then, shouldst thou fear to go into the
+presence of the Great Manitou?" Then said Occuna, "Manitou regardeth
+the brave, he respecteth the prayer of the mighty! When I selected
+thee from the daughters of thy mother I promised to live and die with
+thee. The Thunderer hath called us together. Welcome, O shade of
+Oriska, invincible chief of the Senecas. Lo, a warrior, and the
+daughter of a warrior, come to join thee in the feast of the blessed!"
+The canoe went over the fall; Occuna was dashed in pieces among the
+rocks, but the maiden lived to tell the story. The Indians say that
+Occuna was "raised high above the regions of the moon, from whence he
+views with joy the prosperous hunting of the warriors; he gives
+pleasant dreams to his friends, and terrifies their enemies with
+dreadful omens." Whenever the tribe passed the fatal cataract they
+solemnly commemorated Occuna's death.
+
+
+THE ERIE CANAL.
+
+Just above Cohoes, the Erie Canal crosses the Mohawk upon a stately
+aqueduct, twelve hundred feet long, and it then descends through the
+town by an elaborate series of eighteen locks to the Hudson River
+level. This great water way made the prosperity of New York City, and
+is the monument of the sagacity and foresight of De Witt Clinton,
+Governor of New York, who, despite all obstacles, kept advocating and
+pushing the work until its completion. The construction began in 1817,
+and it was opened for business in 1825. The first barge going through
+had a royal progress from Buffalo, arriving at Albany at three minutes
+before eleven o'clock on the morning of October 26, 1825. There being
+no telegraphs, a swift method was devised for announcing her arrival,
+both back to Buffalo and down the Hudson River to New York. Cannon
+placed within hearing of each other, at intervals of eight or ten
+miles, were successively fired, announcing it in both cities, the
+signal being returned in the same way. By this series of cannon-shots
+the report went down to New York and came back to Albany in
+fifty-eight minutes. When the first barges from Buffalo reached New
+York they were escorted through the harbor by a grand marine
+procession, which went to the ocean at Sandy Hook, where Governor
+Clinton poured in a keg of water brought from Lake Erie. The original
+Erie Canal cost $7,500,000, but it was afterwards enlarged and
+deepened, and further enlargements are still being made. It is
+fifty-six feet wide at the bottom and seventy feet at the surface,
+with seven feet depth of water. The barges are stoutly built and carry
+cargoes of seven to nine thousand bushels of grain. The canal is three
+hundred and fifty-five miles long, and gradually descends from Lake
+Erie five hundred and sixty-eight feet to the tidal level of the
+Hudson River, there being seventy-two locks passed in making the
+journey. This work, with its feeders and connections with the St.
+Lawrence River by the Champlain and Oswego Canals and the
+enlargements, has cost New York $98,000,000, and the maintenance costs
+$1,000,000 a year. It carries a tonnage approximating four millions
+annually, and is now free of tolls. Usually it carries half the grain
+coming to New York City. There are various projects for its further
+enlargement to twelve feet depth to accommodate larger boats, and its
+future usefulness is a theme of wide discussion. Its route across New
+York State is naturally the one of easiest gradient, passing from
+Buffalo over the flat plain of Western New York, descending to the
+lower level of the Genesee Valley, then crossing the plain immediately
+north of the central lake district of New York, and finally by the
+Mohawk Valley, getting an easy passage through the narrow mountain
+gorge at Little Falls, and thence alongside that stream to the Hudson.
+
+Closely accompanying the canal, the great Vanderbilt line, the New
+York Central Railway, crosses New York from Albany to Buffalo. It runs
+for seventeen miles, from Albany to Schenectady, and then follows up
+the Mohawk Valley. This seventeen miles of road is probably the oldest
+steam railroad in the United States--the Mohawk and Hudson Company,
+chartered in April, 1826. The commissioners organizing it met for the
+purpose at John Jacob Astor's office in New York City, July 29, 1826,
+and sent an agent over to England to inquire into its feasibility, and
+he came back with the plans, and was put in charge at $1500 salary.
+This was Peter Fleming, the first manager. The original power was by
+horses, and afterwards steam was used in daytime only, horses
+continuing the night work, it not being considered safe to use steam
+after dark. One car, looking much like an old-fashioned stage-coach,
+made a train. There were fourteen miles of level line, the remainder
+being inclined planes, where horses did the most work. When the car
+approached the station the agent met it, blocking the wheels with a
+wedge, which was removed when the car started again. As business
+increased, more cars were added to the trains, and then a guard was
+put on top of the first car back of the locomotive, to watch the train
+and see that everything moved right. He frequently notified the
+engineer to stop when a car was seen bobbing about sufficiently to
+indicate that it was off the track. This primitive road was the
+beginning of the New York Central Railroad, which was gradually
+extended westward.
+
+
+ASCENDING THE MOHAWK.
+
+Schenectady on the Mohawk is a quaint old town of Dutch foundation,
+now devoted considerably to hops and butter, and largely to the trade
+in brooms. The Indians called it Skaunoghtada, or "the village seen
+across the plain," and hence the name. It was an early outpost of the
+Patroon at Albany, who sent Arent Van Corlaer to build a fort and
+trade in furs with the Indians in 1661. There were two horrible
+massacres here in the colonial wars. This comfortable city spreads
+broadly on the southern bank of the river and has over twenty thousand
+people. It is the seat of Union College, the buildings, upon a height
+overlooking the valley, being prominent. The college is part of the
+foundation of Union University, organized by the coöperation of
+various religious denominations, embracing medical, law and
+engineering schools, and also the Dudley Observatory at Albany. Such
+eminent men as Jonathan Edwards and Eliphalet Nott have been its
+presidents. Some distance up the Mohawk is Amsterdam, another
+flourishing town, and the whole region thereabout is covered with
+fields of broom-corn, the Mohawk Valley being the greatest producer of
+brooms in America, and the chief broom-makers the Shakers, who have
+several settlements here. To the northward of the river above
+Amsterdam is Fort Johnson, a large stone dwelling which was the home
+of Sir William Johnson, the noted pioneer and colonial General. In
+1738, at the age of twenty-three, he came out from England to manage
+Admiral Warren's large estates in the Mohawk Valley. He soon became
+very friendly with the Indians, the Mohawks adopting him as a sachem,
+and he had much to do with the Indian colonial management. He finally
+became the superintendent of the affairs of the Indian Six Nations,
+the Iroquois, and got his title of baronet for his victory over the
+French in 1755 at Fort William Henry, on Lake George. He was in the
+subsequent campaigns, captured Fort Niagara in 1759, and was present
+at the surrender of Montreal, and finally of Canada, the next year.
+For his services in these important conflicts the King gave him a
+tract of one hundred thousand acres north of the Mohawk, long known as
+"Kingsland" or the "Royal Grant." He brought in colonists and started
+Johnstown on this tract. He was active in his duties as head of the
+Indian Department, his death in 1774 resulting from over-exertion at
+an Indian Council. He was the great pioneer of the Mohawk, his
+influence over the Indians being potential, and his village of
+Johnstown, about eight miles north of the river, now having about five
+thousand people. He had a hundred children by many mistresses, both
+Indian and white, his favorite, by whom he had eight children, being
+the sister of the famous Mohawk chief, Joseph Brant.
+
+
+THE LEAGUE OF THE SIX NATIONS.
+
+All this region, and the lands westward beyond the Central Lake
+District of New York, was the home of that noted Indian Confederation
+of America which the French named the Iroquois. When the earliest
+French explorers found them, they were the "Five Nations"--the
+Senecas, Cayugas, Onondagas, Oneidas and Mohawks. Their name as a
+league was Hodenosaunee, meaning "they form a cabin,"--this being
+their idea of a combination, offensive and defensive, and within their
+figurative cabin the fire was in the centre at Onondaga, while the
+Mohawk was the door. They were great warriors, and their tradition was
+that the Algonquins had driven them from Canada to the south side of
+Lake Ontario. Subsequently a portion of the Tuscaroras came up from
+the South, and being admitted to the Confederacy, it became the "Six
+Nations." They had considerable warlike knowledge. Near Elmira, which
+is close to the Pennsylvania boundary south of Seneca Lake, their
+ancient fortifications are still visible, having been located with the
+skill of a military engineer as a defense against attacks. Fort Hill
+at Auburn was also an Iroquois fortification that has yielded many
+relics, and other works constructed by them are shown in various
+places. The league carried on almost continuous warfare against the
+neighboring tribes and the frontier colonists, and were conspicuous in
+all the colonial wars. When in their greatest prosperity they numbered
+about fifteen thousand, and over ten thousand now exist, being located
+on Canadian reservations adjacent to the St. Lawrence River, and on
+eight reservations in New York, where there are about five thousand,
+in civilized life, chiefly engaged in agriculture. In the ancient
+league they were ruled by the Council of Sachems of the various
+tribes, the central council-fire being upon the shore of Onondaga
+Lake, and the Atotarho, or head sachem of the Onondagas, being chief
+of the league.
+
+In colonial New York the westernmost tribe was the Senecas, whose
+hunting-grounds extended from the Central Lake District to Lakes
+Ontario and Erie. When the Dutch pioneers encountered these Indians
+they were found to have the almost unpronounceable name of
+"Tsonnundawaonos," meaning the "great hill people," and the nearest
+the Dutch could come to it was to call them "Sinnekaas," which in time
+was changed to Senecas. The Quakers took great interest in them, with
+such fostering care that three thousand Senecas now live on the
+sixty-six thousand acres in their reservations. They have their own
+Indian language and special alphabet, and portions of the Scriptures
+are printed in it. In their days of power they had two famous
+chiefs--Cornplanter, also called Captain O'Beel, the name of his white
+father, he being a half-breed, and Red Jacket. The latter lived till
+1830 in the Senecas' village near Buffalo. His original Indian name
+was Otetiani, or "Always Ready," and the popular title came from a
+richly-embroidered scarlet jacket given him by a British officer,
+which he always had great pride in wearing. He was a leader among the
+Indians of his time and an impressive orator. Next eastward of the
+Senecas were the Cayugas, who, when discovered by the French on the
+banks of their lake, had about three hundred warriors, and in the
+seventeenth century, under French tutelage, their chiefs became
+Christians. A remnant of the tribe is in the Indian Territory. The
+Onondagas were the "men of the mountain," getting their name from the
+highlands where they lived, south of Onondaga Lake. There are about
+three hundred now on their reservation and as many more in Canada.
+Their language is regarded as the purest of the Iroquois dialects, and
+its dictionary has been published. Farther eastward, where the granite
+outcroppings of the southern Adirondack ranges appeared, were the
+Oneidas, the "tribe of the granite rock," now having on their
+reservation at Oneida Castle over two hundred, with many more in
+Wisconsin and Canada. The Tuscaroras came into the league in 1713, and
+were given a location on the southeastern shore of Oneida Lake, and
+they are now on a reservation in Western New York, where over three
+hundred live, with more in Canada. Their name was of modern adoption,
+after they had assumed some of the habits of the whites, and means the
+"shirt-wearers."
+
+The Mohawks lived farther east, in the Mohawk Valley, among the
+limestone and granitic formations of the Adirondacks and Eastern New
+York, and they were the Agmaque, meaning "the possessors of the
+flint." Within the league their name was Ganniagwari, or the
+"She-Bear," whence the Algonquins called them Mahaque, which the
+English gradually corrupted into Mohawk, the name being also adopted
+for their river. The early Dutch settlers at Albany made a treaty with
+them which was lasting, and the English also had their friendship.
+Their most noted chief was Thayendanega, better known as Joseph Brant,
+who espoused the English cause in the Revolution and held a post in
+the Canadian Indian Department, his tribe then extending throughout
+the whole region between the St. Lawrence and the Hudson. He visited
+England in 1786 and collected money to build a church for his people,
+and published the Prayer-Book and the Gospel of Mark in Mohawk and
+English. He steadily exerted himself after the Revolution to maintain
+peace between the frontier Indians and the United States, being
+zealously devoted to the welfare of his tribe. He had an estate on the
+shore of Lake Ontario, where he died in 1807.
+
+
+LITTLE FALLS AND UTICA.
+
+In ascending the Mohawk valley the distant view is circumscribed on
+the south by the Catskills and Helderbergs, and on the north by the
+Adirondack ranges. The outcrops of the latter compress upon the river
+in long protruding crags covered with firs and known as the "Noses."
+There are various villages, started in the eighteenth century as
+frontier posts among the Indians. There are also hop-fields in plenty
+and much pasture, and finally the hills become higher and the valley
+narrower as Little Falls is reached, where the Mohawk forces a passage
+through a spur of the Adirondacks, known as the Rollaway. The river,
+approaching the gorge, sharply bends from east to south, and plunges
+wildly down a series of rapids, the town being set among the rocky
+precipices right in the throat of the defile. The place is heaped with
+rocks, the stream falling forty-two feet within a thousand yards, the
+descent forming three separate cataracts, which give power to numerous
+mills on the banks and clustering upon an island in the rapids. They
+make cheese and paper, and on either hand precipitous crags rise five
+hundred feet above them. The pass is very narrow, compressing the
+Erie Canal and the New York Central and West Shore Railways closely
+upon the river; in fact, the canal passage has been blasted out of the
+solid granite on the southern river-bank. Here can be readily studied
+the crystalline rocks of the Laurentian formation, which are described
+as "part of the oldest dry land on the face of the globe." It is this
+pass through the mountains, made by the Mohawk, that gives the Erie
+Canal and the Vanderbilt railways their low-level route between the
+Atlantic seaboard and the West. All the other trunk railways climb the
+Allegheny ranges and cross them at elevations of two thousand feet or
+more, while here the elevation is not four hundred feet, thus avoiding
+steep gradients and expensive hauling. The Rollaway stretches for a
+long distance, clothed to its summit with pines and birches.
+
+Beyond, the amber waters of Canada Creek flow in from the north,
+giving the Mohawk a largely increased current, and the land becomes a
+region of gentle hills, with meadows and herds, a scene of pastoral
+beauty, the great dairy region of New York. Here is Herkimer, which
+was an Indian frontier fort, and a few miles farther is Utica, the
+dairymen's and cheese-makers' headquarters, a city of fifty thousand
+people. The whole Mohawk valley for miles has an atmosphere of
+peacefulness and content, innumerable cows and sheep grazing and
+resting upon the rich pastures. The river is narrow and meanders
+slowly past Utica, which is built to the southward along the banks of
+the canal. This city also grew up around an Indian border post.
+General Schuyler, who came westward from Albany, seeking trade, built
+Fort Schuyler here in 1758, the grant of land being known as Cosby's
+Manor. Then a block-house was built, but the settlement, known as Old
+Fort Schuyler, grew very little until after the canal was opened.
+Utica had the honor of producing two of the leading men of New York,
+Roscoe Conkling and Horatio Seymour, the latter having been Governor
+of New York and the Democratic candidate for President when General
+Grant was first elected in 1868. The city rises gradually upon a
+gentle slope south of the Mohawk, until it reaches one hundred and
+fifty feet elevation, Genesee street, the chief highway, wide and
+attractive, extending back from the river and across the canal,
+bordered by elegant residences, fronted by lawns and fine shade trees.
+Its leading public institution is the State Lunatic Asylum, but its
+pride is the regulation of the butter and cheese trades of New York.
+
+In journeying through New York, it is noticed that there is an
+ambitious nomenclature. The towns are given classic names, as if there
+had been an early immigration of the ancient Greeks and Romans. Thus
+we were at Troy on the Hudson, and coming up the Mohawk have passed
+Fonda, Palatine bridge and Ilion on the route to Utica, while farther
+on are Rome and Verona. It seems that in the primitive days of New
+York old Simeon de Witt was the Surveyor General, and under his
+auspices the remorseless college graduate is said to have wandered
+over the country with instrument and map and scattered broadcast
+classic names. These flourish most in Western New York. Albion and
+Attica, Corfu and Palmyra, are near neighbors there, the latter being
+chiefly known to fame as the place where the original Mormon apostle,
+"Joe Smith," claimed to have found the sacred golden plates of the
+Mormon bible and the stone spectacles through which he interpreted the
+signs written upon them. Memphis is near by, and Macedon and Jordan
+are adjacent villages. Pompey, Virgil and Ulysses are named up, and
+Ovid is between Lakes Seneca and Cayuga, with Geneva at the foot of
+Seneca and Ithaca at the head of Cayuga. Auburn--"loveliest village of
+the plain"--is to the eastward, and Aurelius, Marcellus and Camillus
+are railway stations on the route to Syracuse, one of whose former
+names was Corinth. To the southward is Homer, having Nineveh and
+Manlius near by; Venice is not far away, and Babylon is down on Long
+Island. The Mohawk thus heads in classic ground, rising in the
+highlands of Oneida about twenty miles north of Rome, past which it
+flows a small and winding brook through the almost level country.
+Rome, unlike its ancient namesake, has no hills at all, but is built
+upon a plain, having grown up around the Indian frontier outpost of
+Fort Stanwix of the Revolution, the battle of Oriskany, in August,
+1777, which cut off the reinforcements going to Burgoyne at Saratoga,
+thus helping to defeat him, having been fought just outside its
+limits. There are about seventeen thousand people in Rome, which is a
+prominent lumber market, being at the junction of the Erie and Black
+River Canals, the latter fetching lumber down from Canada, which has
+come through Lake Ontario. From Rome the narrow Mohawk flows to Utica,
+and thence with broadening current onward to the Hudson, its whole
+length being about one hundred and forty miles. Its gentle course and
+pastoral beauty remind of the pleasant lines of that poet of nature,
+John Dyer:
+
+     "And see the rivers how they run
+     Through woods and meads, in shade and sun,
+     Sometimes swift, sometimes slow,--
+     Wave succeeding wave, they go
+     A various journey to the deep,
+     Like human life to endless sleep!"
+
+
+TRENTON FALLS.
+
+In the hills north of Utica, the West Canada Creek cuts its remarkable
+gorge at Trenton Falls. It is a vigorous stream, rising in the western
+slopes of the Adirondacks and flowing to the Mohawk. In getting down
+through the limestone rocks from the highlands to the plain adjacent
+to the river, it passes into the ravine, giving a magnificent display
+of chasms, cascades and rapids, in a gorge of such amazing
+construction that it is regarded as a wonder second only to Niagara.
+During the ages, the torrent has cut through over four hundred layers
+of the stratified limestone, exposing the geological formation to full
+view, with the fossil organic remains deposited there as the world was
+built. In descending the ravine, there are five prominent cataracts,
+besides rapids, all compressed within two miles distance, the
+aggregate descent being three hundred and twelve feet. This wonderful
+gorge was the Indian Kauy-a-hoo-ra, or the "Leaping Water," and from
+its color they called the stream Kahnata, the "amber water," a name
+readily corrupted into Canada Creek. The Dutch called the place after
+the Grand Pensioner of Holland, Oldenbarneveld, he having sent out the
+first colonists under a grant known as the "Holland Patent." It was in
+this region Grover Cleveland spent his early life. A grandson of Roger
+Sherman, who had charge of the Unitarian church here, is regarded as
+the discoverer of the ravine in 1805, and he did much to make it known
+to the world. His grave is within sound of the Sherman Fall.
+
+Entering the chasm at the lower end, where the stream passes out from
+the rock terrace to the plain, the ravine is found to be about one
+hundred feet deep, the almost perpendicular rocky walls built up in
+level layers as if by hands, the well-defined separate strata being
+from one inch to a foot in thickness, and narrowest at the bottom.
+Hemlocks and cedars crown the blackened rocks, their branches hanging
+over the abyss, while far below, the boisterous torrent rushes across
+the pavement of broad flagstones forming its bed. Descending to the
+bottom, the impression is like being in a deep vault, this
+subterranean world disclosing operations lasting through ages, during
+which the rocks have slowly yielded to the resistless power of the
+water and frost that has gradually cut the chasm. Fossils and
+petrifactions found in the deepest strata are trod upon, and each thin
+layer of the walls, one imposed upon the other, shows the deposit of a
+supervening flood happening successively, yet eternity only knows how
+long ago. And ages afterwards the torrent came, and during more
+successive ages carved out the gorge, until it has penetrated to the
+bottom of the limestone.
+
+The torrent flows briskly out of the long and narrow vault, while some
+distance above is the lowest of the series of cataracts--the Sherman
+Fall--where the water plunges over a parapet of rock forty feet high
+into a huge basin it has worked out. The amber-colored waters boil
+furiously in this cauldron. Above the Sherman Fall the stream flows
+through rapids, the chasm broadening and the lofty walls rising higher
+as the hill-tops are more elevated, mounting to two hundred feet above
+the torrent at a lofty point called the Pinnacle. The floor of the
+ravine is level, and becomes quite wide, with massive slabs, weighing
+tons, resting upon it, showing the power of freshets which bring them
+down from above, and will ultimately carry them completely through the
+gorge to its outlet, so resistless is the sweep of the raging flood at
+such times, when every bound these huge stones make over the rocky
+floor causes the neighboring hills to vibrate, the stifled thunder of
+their progress being heard above the roar of waters. At the head of
+this widened gorge is the High Falls, in a grand amphitheatre, the
+cataract broken into parts and combining all the varieties of cascade
+and waterfall, being one hundred feet high, and the walls of the chasm
+rising eighty feet higher to the surface of the land above, which
+keeps on rising as the ends of the limestone strata are surmounted.
+The top of this High Fall is another perpendicular wall stretching
+diagonally across the chasm, and below it the protruding layers of
+rock form a sort of huge stairway. Down this the waters fall in
+varying fashion, finally condensing as a mass of whirling, shifting
+foam into a dark pool beneath. This splendid cataract is fringed about
+with evergreens and shrubbery, for between the dark thin slabs of
+limestone are inserted thinner strata of crumbling shale, and these
+give root-hold to the cedars and other nodding branches clinging to
+the walls of the ravine. The waterfall begins at the top with the
+color of melted topaz, and is unlike anything elsewhere seen, for the
+hemlocks and spruces of the mountain regions impart the amber hue to
+the torrent. Descending, the changing tints become steadily lighter,
+until the brown turns to a creamy white, which is finally lost under
+the cloud of spray at the foot of the lower stairway slide, while
+beyond, the water rushes away black in hue and driving forward almost
+as if shot from a cannon.
+
+Above is another great amphitheatre, floored with rocky layers, upon
+which the stream flows in gentler course. In this is the Milldam Fall,
+a ledge about fourteen feet high, over which the waters make a uniform
+flow all across the ravine. This has above it an expanded platform of
+level slabs almost a hundred feet wide, fringed on each side with
+cedars, the attractive place being called the Alhambra. At the upper
+end a naked rock protrudes about sixty feet high, from which a stream
+falls as a perpetual shower-bath. The creek rushes down another
+complex stairway in the Alhambra Cascade. The ravine above suddenly
+contracts, and the walls beyond change their forms into shapes of
+curves and projections. Another cascade of whirling, foaming waters is
+passed, and a new amphitheatre entered, where great slabs of rock have
+fallen from the walls and lie on the floor, ready to be driven down
+the ravine by freshets. The torrent here develops another curious
+formation, known as the Rocky Heart. Curved holes are being rounded
+out by whirling boulders of granite, which are kept constantly
+revolving by the running water, and thus readily act upon the softer
+limestones. The chasm goes still farther up to the Prospect Falls, a
+cataract twenty feet high, near the beginning of the ravine.
+
+Canada Creek passes out of the lower end of the gorge, where the
+limestone layers are exhausted, and their edges fall off in terraces
+sharply to the lower level, and almost down to the surface of the
+stream. All about the broadened channel, as it flows away towards the
+Mohawk, lie the huge slabs and boulders driven down through the chasm
+by repeated freshets, with the amber waters foaming among them. This
+wonderful ravine is a geological mine, disclosing the transition
+rocks, the first containing fossil organic remains. In the lower part
+of the chasm they are compact carbonate of lime, extremely hard and
+brittle, and a dark blue, almost black, in color. At the High Fall,
+and above to the Rocky Heart, the upper strata are from twelve to
+eighteen inches thick, and composed of the crystallized fragments of
+the vertebræ of crinoidea and the shells of terebratulæ. These fossils
+of the Silurian period are numerous. The strata throughout the chasm
+are remarkably horizontal, varying, as they ascend, from one inch to
+eighteen inches in thickness. They are very distinct, and separated by
+a fine shaly substance which disintegrates upon exposure to the air or
+moisture. From the top to the bottom of the ravine small cracks
+extend down perpendicularly, and run in a straight line through the
+whole mass across the stream. These divide the pavements into
+rhomboidal slabs. The most interesting fossils are found, among them
+the large trilobite, a crustacean that could both swim and crawl upon
+the bottom of the sea. This extraordinary place is in reality a
+Titanic fissure, cracked through the crust of mother earth, down which
+roars and dashes a tremendous torrent.
+
+
+THE LAKES OF NEW YORK.
+
+The northwestern boundary of the State of New York is formed by Lake
+Ontario, of which the St. Lawrence River is the outlet, flowing
+northeastward into Canada. Ontario is the smallest and the lowest in
+level of the group of Great Lakes, its name given by the Indians
+meaning the "beautiful water." It is about one hundred and eighty
+miles long, and its surface is two hundred and thirty-one feet above
+tide, but it is fully five hundred feet deep, so that it has more
+depth below the ocean level than the lake surface is above. It has a
+marked feature along its southern shore, where a narrow elevation
+known as the "Lake Ridge" extends nearly parallel with the edge of the
+lake, and from four to eight miles distant. The height of this ridge
+usually exceeds one hundred and sixty feet above the lake level, and
+in some places is nearly two hundred feet, and it is, throughout, from
+five to twenty feet above the immediate surface of the land, there
+being a width at the summit of some thirty feet, from which the ground
+slopes away on both sides. This ridge is regarded as an ancient
+shore-line formed by the waters of the lake, and the chief public
+highway on the southern side of the lake is laid for many miles along
+its summit. The main tributaries of Ontario from New York are the
+Black, Oswego and Genesee Rivers. The Black River gathers various
+streams draining the western slopes of the Adirondacks, and its name
+comes from the dark amber hue of the waters. It flows northwest
+through a forest-covered region, pours down Lyons Falls, a fine
+cataract of seventy feet, passes the manufacturing towns of Lowville
+and Watertown, and finally discharges by the broadened estuary of
+Black River Bay into the east end of Lake Ontario. From Rome, on the
+Mohawk, a canal is constructed northward to the Black River.
+
+Westward from Rome the land is an almost level plain, rising into the
+Onondaga highlands to the southward. Cazenovia Lake, among these
+hills, sends its outlet northward over the plain to Oneida Lake. There
+are various little lakelets between, but the ground is impregnated
+with sulphur, so that their waters are bitter, and one is consequently
+named Lake Sodom. Oneida is a large lake, twenty-three miles long and
+several miles broad, with low and marshy shores. In the fertile dairy
+region to the southeastward is located the "Inspiration Community" of
+Oneida, founded in 1847 by John Humphrey Noyes, a Vermont preacher. In
+1834, when twenty-three years old, he experienced what he called a
+"second conversion," and announced himself a "perfectionist." He
+preached his new faith and finally established the Oneida Community
+for its demonstration, with about three hundred members. They maintain
+the perfect equality of women with men in all social and business
+relations, and have become quite wealthy as manufacturers, farmers and
+dairymen. The outlet of Oneida Lake, and in fact the outlet streams of
+all the lakes of Central New York, discharge into Oswego River, which
+flows northward into Lake Ontario. Oswego means "the small water
+flowing into that which is large," and the port at its mouth, noted
+for its flour and starch-mills, has about twenty-five thousand people,
+and is the largest city on the New York shore of Lake Ontario. This
+was an early French settlement in the seventeenth century, when the
+river was known by them as the "river of the Onondagas."
+
+The great plain south of Lake Ontario, which is believed to have been
+itself formerly a lake bed, rises into highlands farther southward,
+and the noted group of lakes of Central New York are scattered in the
+valleys which are deeply fissured into these highlands. Most of these
+lakes are long and narrow, and they nestle in almost parallel valleys,
+their waters occupying the bottoms of deep ravines. These lakes
+present much fine scenery, and their shores are among the most
+attractive parts of New York. They display vineyards and fruit
+orchards and extensive pastures, and their present names are the
+original titles given them by the Iroquois, many of whom still live on
+reservations near them. Southwest of Oneida is Onondaga Lake, and
+farther west Skaneateles and Owasco. Then beyond is the larger Cayuga
+Lake, and to the westward Seneca, the largest of the group, sixty
+miles long, elevated two hundred feet above Lake Ontario, and of great
+depth, estimated to exceed six hundred feet. This lake was never known
+to be frozen over but once, and that was late in March many years ago;
+steamboats traverse it every day in the year. Cayuga Lake is of
+similar character, but of slightly less size and elevation, and in
+some places is so deep as to be almost unfathomable. These parallel
+lakes are separated by an elevated ridge only a few miles wide, and
+their great depth, descending much below the level of Ontario, into
+which they discharge, gives evidence to the geologists that their
+waters originally drained to the southward. Westward of Seneca is
+Keuka or the Crooked Lake, the Indian name meaning "the lake of the
+Bended Elbow." It is a pretty sheet of water, having an angle in its
+centre, from which starts out another long and narrow branch, so that
+its spreading arms make it look much like the aboriginal
+signification. It is elevated two hundred and seventy-seven feet
+above the level of Seneca Lake, which is only seven miles away.
+Beyond Keuka is Canandaigua Lake, the westernmost of the group.
+
+
+THE SYRACUSE SALT-MAKERS.
+
+Onondaga Lake is comparatively small, being six miles long and about a
+mile broad, and it is noted for its salt wells, which have made the
+prosperity of the city of Syracuse, the largest in Central New York,
+built along Onondaga Creek south of the lake, and upon the slopes of
+the higher hills to the eastward. An Indian trader started the town in
+the eighteenth century, and soon afterwards Asa Danforth began making
+salt at Salt Point on the lake, calling his village Salina. When the
+Erie Canal came along the place grew rapidly, and it is now a great
+canal and railroad centre, with lines radiating in various directions,
+and from it the Oswego Canal goes northward to Lake Ontario. The city
+has a population approximating a hundred thousand. The salt springs
+come out of the rocks of the Upper Silurian period, and are located
+chiefly in the marshes bordering Onondaga Lake. The brine wells are
+bored in the lowlands surrounding the lake to a depth of two hundred
+to over three hundred feet. The State of New York controls the wells
+and pumps the brine to supply the evaporating works, which are private
+establishments, a royalty of one cent per bushel being charged. The
+main impurity that has to be driven out of the brine is sulphate of
+lime, and the finer product has a high reputation, the "Onondaga
+Factory-Filled Salt" being greatly esteemed. The salt wells were known
+to the Indians, and the French Jesuit missionaries found them as early
+as 1650, taking salt back to Canada. In 1789 they yielded five hundred
+bushels, and they have since produced as high as nine millions of
+bushels a year, the annual product now being about three millions. The
+brine is first pumped into small shallow vats, where it remains until
+the carbonic acid gas escapes and the iron is deposited as an oxide.
+It is then led to the evaporating vats, all processes being used,
+solar as well as boiling. The land bordering the marshy shores of
+Onondaga Lake is framed around by rows of factories and heating
+furnaces, while out on the marshes are clusters of little brown
+houses, each covering a well and pump. From there the brine is led
+through conduits made of bored logs, called the "salt logs," to the
+evaporating vats and factories, some going long distances. Everything
+throughout the whole district is profusely saturated with salt.
+
+Syracuse is one of the handsomest cities of the Empire State. The New
+York Central Railroad passes through the centre of the business
+section, the locomotives and ordinary traffic sharing the main street
+in common, in front of the chief hotels and stores, for thus has the
+town grown up. Just northward, the Erie Canal also goes through the
+heart of the city, giving on moonlight nights scenes that are almost
+Venetian. The streets are broad, and ornamental squares are frequent,
+the chief residential highways--James, Genesee and University
+Streets--being bordered with imposing dwellings surrounded by
+extensive grounds. Magnificent trees line the streets and broad lawns
+stretch back to the dwellings, everything being open to public view,
+so that in these parts the town is practically a vast park. To the
+eastward rises University Hill, crowned by the buildings of Syracuse
+University, a Methodist foundation having eleven hundred students.
+Holden Observatory adjoins the grand graystone main college building,
+and from this high hill there is a magnificent view over the city and
+the oval-shaped lake and its salt marsh border off to the northwest.
+The southern view is enclosed by the Onondaga highlands, out of which
+Onondaga Creek comes through a deep and winding valley. Back among
+these dark blue distant hills still live in pastoral simplicity the
+remnants of the "Men of the Mountain,"--the Onondagas,--the ruling
+power of the famous Iroquois Confederation.
+
+
+AUBURN, ITHACA AND CORNELL.
+
+Westward from Syracuse the country is full of lakes. Otisco Lake,--the
+"Bitter-nut Hickory,"--is an oval four miles long, embosomed in hills.
+To the northwest of Otisco is Skaneateles Lake--the "Long Water"--the
+most picturesque of all, set among most imposing hills, which,
+notwithstanding the lake is elevated eight hundred and sixty feet,
+still rise twelve hundred feet above its surface, giving the waters
+the deeply blue tinge of an Italian scene. This lovely lake is sixteen
+miles long, and in no place more than a mile and a half wide, its
+outlet having a fine cataract. To the westward is Owasco Lake--"the
+bridge on the water floating"--eleven miles long and a mile wide,
+walled in by rocky bluffs, yet having its shores diversified by
+meadows and farm land. About two miles northward, on its outlet, is
+the busy manufacturing city of Auburn, with thirty thousand people,
+which was the home of William H. Seward, Governor and Senator from New
+York, who was President Lincoln's Secretary of State during the Civil
+War. Its most extensive establishment is the Auburn Prison, covering
+about eighteen acres, enclosed by walls four feet thick and twelve to
+thirty-five feet high, there being imprisoned usually about twelve
+hundred convicts. The surface of the city is varied by hills, making
+handsome villa sites, and the Owasco Lake outlet flows down a series
+of rapids, falling one hundred and sixty feet, and utilized by no less
+than nine dams to turn the wheels of many mills. Captain Hardenburgh
+was the first settler here in 1793, the original name being
+"Hardenburgh's Corners." On Fort Hill, one of the highest elevations,
+the top of which is supposed to be an eminence originally raised by
+the ancient Mound-Builders, and was an Iroquois fortification, is the
+Cemetery where are interred the remains of William H. Seward, who died
+in 1872.
+
+After crossing a rich grazing country, farther to the westward is
+Cayuga Lake--the name meaning "Where they take canoes out"--stretching
+from the level plain of Central New York southward into the highlands,
+making the watershed between the affluents of the St. Lawrence and the
+Susquehanna. Progressing southward along the long and narrow lake, the
+hills are found to grow steadily higher, and they reach an elevation
+of several hundred feet above its surface. The bordering rocky
+buttresses rise up as columns and walls, with accurately-squared
+corners, their perpendicular stratification making the flagstone
+layers that have been loosened by the frost stand on edge and
+separately, seeming almost ready to topple over, while heaps of broken
+fragments are strewn at their bases, which, being pulverized by the
+action of frost and water into small particles, produce a smooth and
+narrow beach. At the head of the lake the deep valley is prolonged
+farther southward between even higher enclosing ridges, the Cayuga
+Inlet winding through it. Here, about a mile from the lake, is a
+flourishing town of twelve thousand people, reproducing the name of
+the Ionian Island that was the fabled kingdom of Ulysses--Ithaca. It
+is the centre of a grazing region, producing cheese, butter and wool,
+and its water-power has given some manufacturing activity, but it is
+chiefly known to fame from the surrounding galaxy of waterfalls and
+the possession of Cornell University.
+
+Cayuga Lake, at its head, has a rugged verge, and in the glens and
+gorges descending four to five hundred feet from the hills to the lake
+and its prolonged southern valley, are some of nature's most beautiful
+sanctuaries. Fall Creek has eight cataracts within a mile, all of them
+charming. It comes tumbling down the Triphammer Fall into a basin,
+then over one cascade after another until it plunges down a foaming
+precipice and finally goes over the Ithaca Fall, one hundred and sixty
+feet high and about as wide. Alongside the lake, near the outlet of
+this brook, are remarkable formations,--Tower Rock, a perfect columnar
+structure forty feet high, and Castle Rock, a massive wall with a
+grand arched doorway opened through it--both strange freaks of nature.
+The ravine of Cascadilla Creek to the southward is also filled with
+cascades, and on an elevated plateau between the two gorges is Cornell
+University. The most noted waterfall of Cayuga is the Taghanic--the
+original Indian word meaning "Water enough." A stream flows in from
+the western hills a short distance north of Ithaca, and the fall is
+two hundred and fifteen feet high and some distance back in the ridge.
+Its interesting features are the great height, the very deep ravine
+and its sharply-defined outlines, and the splendid views; and its
+admirers regard it as a worthy rival of the much-praised Swiss
+Staubbach. The water breaks over a cleanly-cut table-rock, falls
+perpendicularly, and excepting in freshets, it changes into clouds of
+spray before reaching the bottom. The rocky enclosing walls rise four
+hundred feet high around it, being regularly squared as if laid by
+human hands, and this is the highest American waterfall east of the
+Rockies.
+
+High above Ithaca, standing upon the brow of the ridge making its
+eastern border, are the imposing buildings of Cornell University,
+devoted to the free education of both sexes in all branches of
+knowledge, the spreading college campus elevated four hundred feet
+above the lake. Here are educated eighteen hundred students, who have
+about one hundred and eighty instructors. The College of Forestry,
+established in 1898, is the only one in the country. The University
+has munificent endowments, becoming constantly more valuable, as lands
+of steadily increasing worth are among the holdings, the aggregate
+being estimated at $8,000,000. At the edge of Ithaca is the mansion
+which was the home of Ezra Cornell the founder, who amassed a fortune
+mainly in telegraphy, he then being at the head of the Western Union
+Company. To his generosity was added the proceeds of the ample school
+lands of New York State, the gift of the Federal Government, which he
+selected with scrupulous care, and these gave the University its
+start. He died in 1874. Others gave supplementary gifts. John McGraw
+of Ithaca gave McGraw College, the central building on the campus, two
+hundred feet long, with a tower rising one hundred and twenty feet,
+containing the great University bell with full chimes, and having a
+view forty miles northward along the lake and almost half as far
+southward through the deep valley. This structure is flanked by the
+North and South University buildings, each one hundred and sixty-five
+feet long, all three substantially constructed of dark blue stone with
+light gray limestone trimmings. There are also the Sibley Building,
+and the magnificent Cascadilla Hall, nearly two hundred feet long,
+which is a residence for instructors and students. The Sage College
+for females and other handsome buildings adorn the campus, including
+an armory, for everything is taught, and a battery of mounted cannon
+guards the approach to the grounds.
+
+
+HAVANA AND WATKINS GLENS.
+
+Seneca Lake, the largest of the group, is a short distance west of
+Cayuga, and its prolonged southern valley is bordered by ridges rising
+even higher, through which the streams have carved remarkable gorges.
+Two of the larger torrents coming into the prolonged Seneca Valley
+have hewn out of the hillsides, one on either hand, romantic fissures
+of wide renown,--the Havana and Watkins Glens. The Havana Glen is
+three miles south of the lake and about a mile long, being cut out of
+the eastern wall of the valley. The ravine is steep, having quite a
+large stream. Its characteristic is that the water and frost have made
+great fissures and caverns, but so fashioned them that all the joints
+and corners are right-angles. The cascades are successions of ledges,
+the water apparently running down a staircase. If the stream runs over
+a waterfall, it comes from a level ledge as if running over a wall. If
+it rushes through a gorge, all the corners are square, the sides
+perpendicular and the bottom level. If a brigade of stonemasons had
+built the place it could hardly have been more accurately constructed.
+Several of the cascades are magnificent, the "Bridal Veil" and the
+"Curtain Falls" going down a maze of rocky ledges, their frothy waters
+making resplendent sheets of exquisite lacework. In one place the
+stream flows through a perfectly square grotto known as the "Council
+Chamber," entering this great hall by a right-angled bend from an
+adjoining square-cut grotto of similar character. Each is a perfect
+apartment, the water rushing from one to the other through an
+entry-like passage, from which it makes a square turn. The glen is
+quite steep, and its "Central Gorge" is a narrow fissure, clean-cut
+and deep, making a half-dozen right-angled bends, each lower than the
+other, the torrent rushing around the sharp corners and over the
+straight edges with wild swiftness and clouds of spray. The visitor
+mounts ladders and steps through the spray, and the glen can be
+followed a long distance upward past many cascades, its
+picturesqueness being enhanced by the huge tree-trunks the torrent
+occasionally brings down and lodges in the many angular bends.
+
+  [Illustration: _Watkins Glen_]
+
+Watkins Glen, carved out of the western wall of the valley just at the
+head of Seneca Lake, is constructed upon a grander scale, yet entirely
+different. The torrent has hewn it among similarly laminated rocks,
+but the erosive processes have made vast amphitheatres, their great
+size dwarfing the diminutive brook flowing like a thread at the
+bottom. The entrance, level with the floor of the valley, presents the
+same squared and angular features as Havana Glen, but inside it is a
+grand amphitheatre enclosed within perpendicular stone walls three
+hundred feet high, and is proportionately spacious. It is quickly
+seen, however, that within the grand hall the rocky layers, instead of
+being squared and angular, have been smoothed and rounded by the
+waters, the small but dashing stream flowing over the floor by
+graceful curves through circular pools and winding channels. This glen
+is built on a prodigious scale, being over three miles long, and its
+head rising eight hundred feet above the valley. A narrow cascade
+eighty feet high falls at the far end of the entrance amphitheatre,
+and climbing up, the visitor enters "Glen Alpha," the first of the
+vast chambers. There are successive glens and caverns as one proceeds
+onward and upward through the "Cavern Gorge" and "Glen Obscura," where
+a hotel and chalet are perched on the rocky ledges at four hundred
+feet elevation. Above is the "Sylvan Gorge," and then the fissure
+broadens out into its grandest section, the "Glen Cathedral," a
+magnificent nave, with walls rising nearly three hundred feet, the
+rocky layers giving it a level stone floor. It has the "Pulpit Rock"
+and "Baptismal Font," and climbing out one hundred and seventy feet
+upward alongside a cascade, the visitor then goes onward past more
+grottoes, falls and gorges for a long distance, until the "Glen Omega"
+is reached at the top. Here an airy railway bridge of one of the
+Vanderbilt roads spans it at two hundred feet height above the floor.
+
+The shores of Seneca Lake, as one progresses northward, present
+various pretty little glens cut deeply into the bordering hills, and
+as these become lower there are vineyards and pastures displayed.
+Gradually the bluffs disappear, giving place to extensive farm lands
+as the level plain at the outlet is reached. Here, in imitation of a
+noble Swiss example, the town of Geneva has been built at the foot of
+the lake, its chief street extending along the western bank, with
+villas peeping out from the foliage. This is a prominent nursery town,
+florists and seedsmen being its chief merchants, and a large part of
+the adjacent country being devoted to seed-growing and propagation.
+Hobart College, a leading Episcopal foundation, is at Geneva. The
+outlet of the lake is the Seneca River, having an attractive
+waterfall, and after gathering the outflow of this group of Central
+New York lakes, it goes away northeastward to Oswego River.
+
+
+CANISTEO AND CHEMUNG RIVERS.
+
+There are yet two other lakes westward of Seneca, Keuka and
+Canandaigua. This region was generally first peopled by the Puritans,
+but others also came in, and at the outlet of Keuka is the town of
+Penn Yan, so called from the Pennsylvanians and Yankees who settled
+it, their descendants being the shrewd and thrifty race known as the
+"New York Yankees." There are extensive vineyards on Keuka where are
+made some of the best American clarets and champagnes, the centre of
+that industry being Hammondsport, at the head of the lake. Beyond is
+Canandaigua Lake, the town of Canandaigua standing at its northern end
+upon a surface gently sloping towards its shores. The word means the
+"place chosen for a village." The heads of all these lakes are in the
+southern highlands, making the watershed, south of which the streams
+are gathered into the Canisteo River, meaning "the board on the
+water," which flows into the Chemung, the "big horn," and thence by
+the Susquehanna down through Pennsylvania to the Chesapeake. The Erie
+Railway, coming eastward by a wild and lonely route across the
+Allegheny ranges, goes down the pretty Canisteo Valley to
+Hornellsville, a purely railroad town of twelve thousand people, which
+has grown up around the shops and stations. Below, the valley
+broadens, and is picturesque between its high bordering ridges, the
+stream meandering in wayward fashion over the almost flat intervale.
+It passes Addison and the town with the unique name of Painted Post,
+so called from an Indian monument inscribed in colors, and as the
+Canisteo River broadens with the contribution of its swelling
+tributaries, it reaches the active manufacturing city of Corning,
+having ten thousand people, and here falls into the Chemung, which
+comes up northward out of the Allegheny ranges in Pennsylvania to meet
+it. The Chemung Valley is a broad and fertile section of flat and
+highly cultivated bottom lands, having in its heart the city of
+Elmira, with thirty-five thousand inhabitants and many industrial
+establishments, making it a busy railroad centre. Here is the Elmira
+Reformatory, the Elmira Female College, and the various "Water Cures,"
+a species of remedial establishment flourishing throughout Western New
+York, where there is apparently no limit to the efficacy or
+bountifulness of the water-supply. The broad Chemung flows through
+Elmira and beyond down its rich and wide-spreading valley, until at
+Athens it loses itself in the swelling waters of the Susquehanna.
+
+
+THE VALLEY OF THE GENESEE.
+
+Among the rugged mountains of Potter County, in the northern part of
+Pennsylvania, the highest land in the State, are the springs feeding
+the headwaters of three noted rivers, seeking the ocean in opposite
+directions. The Allegheny flows westward and afterwards southward to
+the Ohio; the west branch of the Susquehanna goes eastward to break
+through the entire Allegheny chain in seeking the Atlantic; and the
+smaller stream, the Genesee, flows northward through New York between
+two long Allegheny ridges, the chief affluent of Lake Ontario. The
+Genesee passes through a valley of great beauty and gives water-power
+to many mills, a canal also being constructed to improve its
+navigation. After a romantic course of one hundred and fifty miles it
+empties into the lake at Charlotte, seven miles north of Rochester.
+For much of the distance its course is through a magnificent gorge,
+with a succession of cataracts that are renowned in American scenery.
+Where it first attacks the highlands of New York to break out of them,
+it plunges deeper and deeper down a series of grand cataracts at
+Portage. Here the Erie Railway, coming from the westward, has boldly
+thrown a stupendous bridge across the tremendous chasm and almost over
+the top of the highest cataract. The river makes a gorge in the
+yielding rocks, sinking from two hundred and fifty to six hundred
+feet deep, and here are the Portage Falls, one cataract after another
+making the stream-bed lower, the walls of the wild ravine rising
+almost perpendicularly. The railway, crossing at the most favorable
+place, has built one of the highest bridges in the country, elevated
+two hundred and thirty-five feet above the river, resting upon
+lightly-framed steel trusses. From the car windows the river can be
+seen far below in what seems a narrow fissure, the current boiling
+along and then tumbling down the cataract, the edge of which crosses
+the river diagonally almost beneath the bridge. The waters pour into a
+chasm seeming almost bottomless as the spray obscures it. The ravine
+extends northward, and in the distance the waters go over a second
+fall and then a third, the chasm finally curving around to the right,
+making a bend, closing the view more than a mile away, with an
+enormous wall of bare rock. The three cataracts fall respectively
+seventy, one hundred and ten and one hundred and fifty feet--called
+the Upper, Middle and Lower Portage Falls--and for several miles
+below, the river flows through the deeper ravine amid equally
+magnificent surroundings.
+
+This descent brings the Genesee River down from the higher plateau to
+what is known as the "Genesee Level," for at the end of the defile,
+fifteen miles below Portage, it flows out of the highlands over
+pleasant lands and with gentler current. Here on the "Genesee Flats"
+is the village of Mount Morris, and near it has been placed, alongside
+the ravine, the rude log cabin, which was originally on the higher
+land above Portage, the Indian "Council House of Cascadea," where the
+Iroquois chiefs often met. At the removal in 1872, the services were
+conducted in the Senecas language, several Indians attending, and the
+identical "pipe of peace" given by Washington to Red Jacket was passed
+around. Nearby the river emerges through a Titanic gateway in the
+rocks to the pastoral region stretching far to the northward, while
+far over on the eastern verge is the village of Geneseo, sloping up
+the ascent. Its Indian name, meaning the "beautiful valley," is also
+given the river. After meandering placidly for miles across these
+flats, the Genesee River reaches the "Flour City of the West,"
+Rochester, the storage and distributing mart for this fertile valley,
+getting its original start and title from the prolific wheat crops.
+And here the Genesee plunges down another waterfall which gives power
+to the Rochester mills.
+
+When De Witt Clinton, in 1810, exploring the route for the Erie Canal,
+crossed the river here, there was not a house. The place was
+afterwards the "Hundred Acre Tract," planned in 1812 for a settlement
+by three adventurous frontiersmen, and the town was named for one of
+them, Nathaniel Rochester. After a few years, the spreading fame of
+the fertility of the Genesee Valley attracted a large population, and
+it became known as the garden spot of the then "West," so that out of
+this grew the flour-mills which have continued to be Rochester's chief
+industry. The Genesee River flows through with swift current, the Erie
+Canal being carried over on a massive stone aqueduct and the New York
+Central Railroad upon a wide bridge, and about a hundred yards beyond,
+the river plunges down the great Rochester Fall. The ledge over which
+it tumbles is a perpendicular wall, straight and regular in formation,
+and almost without fragments of rock at the foot, so that the fall is
+a clear one. The shores below are lined with huge stone mills and
+breweries, to which races on each bank conduct the water from a dam
+above the railroad bridge. This Rochester Fall, down which Sam Patch
+jumped to his death, is ninety-six feet high. Below it, the river
+flows through a somewhat wider channel, gradually bending to the left,
+and then it goes down a second cataract of twenty-five feet height,
+and finally, at some distance, over a third and broken fall of
+eighty-four feet. As at Portage, this second succession of triple
+cataracts sinks the river bed deeper and deeper into the gorge, so
+that the enclosing walls are in some places over three hundred feet
+high. This gorge is all within the limits of the city, the falls and
+rapids having a total descent of two hundred and sixty feet. This
+immense water-power, with the traffic facilities of canal and railway,
+have made the city, so that there is a population of a hundred and
+forty thousand around the Genesee Falls, and manufactures of flour,
+beer, clothing, leather and other articles, valued at $75,000,000
+annually. In the neighboring region there is also extensive
+seed-growing, the Rochester nurseries occupying miles of the level
+surface. Rochester University has two hundred students and valuable
+geological collections. The city has been a headquarters for the
+Spiritualists and advocates of Women's Rights. The Genesee emerges
+from the rocky gorge below Rochester, and flows in more tranquil
+course northward through a ravine carved deeply into the table-land,
+to Lake Ontario, at the little port of Charlotte.
+
+
+LOCKPORT, CHAUTAUQUA AND ERIE.
+
+Westward from Rochester the country is underlaid by red sandstones,
+and at Medina quarries are plentiful, this reproduction of the Arabian
+"City of the Prophet" being an extensive supplier of these dark-red
+Medina sandstones, as the geologists call them. Beyond, at Lockport,
+the higher terrace is reached, and here the Erie Canal is raised by an
+imposing series of five double locks from the Genesee level up to the
+Lake Erie level. Through these locks and by means of a subsidiary
+canal an immense water-power is obtained which is utilized by the
+Lockport mills. The much lower Genesee level is marked by the base of
+a bluff, stretching through the town and across the adjacent region,
+evidently the bank of an ancient lake.
+
+In western New York a high ridge crosses the country south of Lake
+Erie, and to the southward of its most elevated portion there
+stretches the elongated Chautauqua Lake, almost bisected by two
+jutting points at its centre. This charming lake is eighteen miles
+long, three or four miles wide, and elevated seven hundred and thirty
+feet above Lake Erie, its outlet draining southward into a tributary
+of the Allegheny River. Its elevation above tide is nearly thirteen
+hundred feet. The low hills enclosing it are popular summer resorts,
+and on the western bank in the season are drawn enormous crowds to the
+Chautauqua Assembly, which has established the "Summer School of
+Philosophy" for education. There are often twenty to thirty thousand
+people here at one time, and the plan has been so successful that it
+has various imitators elsewhere, the "Chautauqua idea" being varying
+instruction with recreation. The Indians named this lake, from the
+mists arising, Chautauqua, or "the foggy place." Beyond this popular
+resort the land falls away, and crossing the New York western boundary
+into the "Pennsylvania Triangle," a jutting corner thrust up to Lake
+Erie, a fine harbor is found at Erie, known in earlier history by its
+French name of Presque Isle. This triangle of the Keystone State,
+giving about forty miles of coast-line on the lake, has a history.
+The early surveyors discovered that, owing to misdescriptions in
+various English grants, this large triangular tract was, from a legal
+standpoint, "nowhere." It was north of Pennsylvania, west of New York
+and east of the Connecticut Western Reserve, which became part of
+Ohio. Pennsylvania finally bought it, paying the United States
+Government, in 1792, $150,640 for it, and also getting the Indian
+title for £1200. It was a good purchase, for Erie harbor is the best
+on the lake. Erie has about fifty thousand people, and is in a
+picturesque situation, owing to the beauty of the bay and the outlying
+island, which was formerly a peninsula. There is additional protection
+by a breakwater, making an extensive basin with spacious docks that
+have a large trade. The French were the early settlers, building their
+"Fort de la Presque Isle" in 1749, which was one of the chain of
+outposts they projected between the St. Lawrence and the Ohio. It was
+here that Commodore Perry hastily built the rude fleet with which he
+gained the noted victory over the Anglo-Canadian fleet on Lake Erie in
+1813, and back here he afterwards in triumph towed his prizes. The
+remains of his flagship lie in the harbor. Perry's guns were the
+heaviest in that memorable contest for control of the lake, and
+therefore he won. In Lake Side Cemetery is buried Captain Charles
+Vernon Gridley, who commanded Admiral Dewey's flagship, the "Olympia,"
+at the battle of Manila Bay in 1898.
+
+
+THE CITY OF BUFFALO.
+
+Dunkirk, in New York, northeast of Erie, is another harbor on the
+lake, and a terminal of the Erie Railway, the land hereabout being the
+monotonous level plain of western New York. Rounding the eastern end
+of Lake Erie, at the head of its outlet stream, the Niagara River, is
+Buffalo, the chief port of the lake and the metropolis of western New
+York. It is surrounded for miles upon the level land with railway
+terminals and car-yards, amid which factories, breweries,
+coal-pockets, cattle-pens and grain elevators are distributed. This
+great city, which has grown to four hundred thousand population, takes
+it name from the American bison, who roamed in large herds over the
+lands adjacent to Lake Erie as late as 1720, and thus gave the name to
+Buffalo Creek. The city covers a broad surface at the foot of Lake
+Erie, and is coeval with the nineteenth century, having been founded
+in 1801; but in the earlier years it was only a military post, and did
+not assume a commercial standing or begin to grow much until after the
+opening of the Erie Canal. The neighboring post of Niagara, a short
+distance down that river, was of more importance in the early days of
+the frontier, for it was on Niagara River, in 1669, that the Sieur de
+La Salle, who described the frozen stream as "like a plain paved with
+polished marble," built and in the following summer launched the
+"Griffin," the first rude vessel that explored the Upper Lakes.
+Afterwards one or two trading cabins appeared on Buffalo Creek, and
+then there was constructed a stockade fort. For thirty years the
+hunters and traders fought the savages and captured wild beasts, and
+then, after an interval of peace, the War of 1812 came with new
+ravages, during which the little settlement around the stockade at
+Buffalo was burnt by the British, who held the fort at the entrance to
+Niagara River. When the Erie Canal was opened, the expansion of the
+settlement became rapid, and its eligible position at the point where
+the lake commerce had to connect with the canal and the railways
+leading to the Atlantic seaboard has since given full scope to
+business enterprise and made it a large and wealthy city.
+
+The Buffalo suburbs are gridironed by railroads, and their terminals
+spread along the water-front and the sinuosities of Buffalo Creek. The
+grain elevators, as in all the lake cities, are a prominent feature,
+and they stand like huge monsters, forty of them, with high heads and
+long trunks along the creek and canal basins as if waiting for their
+prey. The fleets of vessels come over the lakes laden with grain from
+the West; tugs take them to one of these monsters, and down out of the
+long neck is plunged a trunk deep into the vessel's hold, which sucks
+up all the grain. It is stored and weighed and sent on its journey
+eastward. If this is by canal, the barge waits on the other side, and
+the grain runs down into it through another trunk; if by railway, the
+cars are run under or alongside the elevator and quickly filled. Then
+the lake vessels are laden with coal for the return voyage. While an
+American gives these elevators scant attention, being used to them,
+not so the foreigner, who regards them with the greatest curiosity.
+Thus wrote Anthony Trollope about them: "An elevator is as ugly a
+monster as has yet been produced. In uncouthness of form it outdoes
+those obsolete old brutes who used to roam about the semi-aqueous
+world and live a most uncomfortable life, with their great hungering
+stomachs and huge unsatisfied maws. Rivers of corn and wheat run
+through these monsters night and day. And all this wheat which passes
+through Buffalo comes loose in bulk; nothing is known of sacks or
+bags. To any spectator in Buffalo this becomes immediately a matter of
+course; but this should be explained, as we in England are not
+accustomed to see wheat travelling in this open, unguarded and
+plebeian manner. Wheat with us is aristocratic, and travels always in
+its private carriage."
+
+The extensive commerce of Buffalo is varied by iron manufacturing,
+breweries, distilleries, oil refineries and other industries, but the
+elevators, coal chutes and railroad and canal business seem to
+overshadow everything else. The city has wide tree-lined streets, and
+is most handsome with its many fine buildings. There is an extensive
+system of attractive parks connected by boulevards; broad streets
+lined with well-built residences, and in the newer parts the level
+surface is filled with ornamental homes, some most expensively
+constructed and elaborately adorned. The well-kept lawns and gardens
+are fully open to view, and Delaware Avenue, thus bordered, is one of
+the most attractive streets. On the Main Street, among many impressive
+structures, is the huge Ellicott Square Building, said to be the
+largest office-building in the world, housing a business community
+approximating five thousand persons. There are also two public
+Libraries and many handsome churches.
+
+The locality of greatest interest in Buffalo is probably the little
+Prospect Park out at the edge of Lake Erie, where its waters flow into
+Niagara River. The basins and harbor making the beginning of the Erie
+Canal, which we have traced all across New York State, are down at the
+edge of the lake, and a steep bluff, rising about sixty feet, makes
+the verge of the Park, and continues around along the bank of the
+river. Here it is crowned by an esplanade surrounding the remains of
+old Fort Porter, a dilapidated relic of bygone days of frontier
+conflicts. A couple of superannuated cannon point their muzzles across
+the water towards Canada, but otherwise the locality is peaceful. A
+small military force is kept here, probably to watch the British Fort
+Erie over on the opposite river bank, a few hundred yards off, but
+the worst conflicts now are bouts at playing ball. The protecting
+harbor breakwater is out in front, and seen down the Niagara River are
+the light trusses of the International Railway Bridge, spanning its
+swift current, and the Erie Canal alongside the bank. Into the narrow
+river sweeps the drainage of the Great Lakes, an enormous mass of
+water, and in the centre the city has placed a large crib, tapping the
+clear current for its water-supply. The powerful torrent flows
+steadily northward out of Lake Erie, with a speed of six or seven
+miles an hour, to make the Niagara cataract, twenty miles away, and
+show its tremendous force in the Niagara gorge. In the words of
+Goethe:
+
+     "Water its living strength first shows,
+     When obstacles its course oppose."
+
+
+NIAGARA.
+
+The Indians who first looked upon the world's greatest cataract gave
+the best idea of it in their appropriate name, "The Thunder of
+Waters." There is no setting provided for it in the charms of natural
+scenery; it has no outside attractions. All its beauty and sublimity
+are within the rocky walls of its stupendous chasm. The approaches
+from every direction are dull and tedious, the surrounding country
+being flat. The forests are sparse and there are few fine trees, these
+being confined to the verge of the abyss, and being generally of
+recent planting. The Niagara River flows northward from Lake Erie
+through a plain. The Lake Erie level is five hundred and sixty-four
+feet above the sea, and in its tortuous course of about thirty-six
+miles to Lake Ontario, the Niagara River descends three hundred and
+thirty-three feet, leaving the level of Ontario still two hundred and
+thirty-one feet above the sea. More than half of all the fresh water
+on the entire globe--the whole enormous volume from the vast lake
+region of North America, draining a territory equalling the entire
+continent of Europe, pours through this contracted channel out of Lake
+Erie. There is a swift current for a couple of miles, but afterwards
+the speed is gentler as the channel broadens, and Grand Island divides
+it. Then it reunites into a wider stream, flowing sluggishly westward,
+small islands dotting the surface. About fifteen miles from Lake Erie
+the river narrows and the rapids begin. They flow with great speed for
+a mile above the falls, in this distance descending fifty-two feet,
+Goat Island dividing their channel at the brink of the cataract, where
+the river makes a bend from the west back to the north. This island
+separates the waters, although nine-tenths go over the Canadian fall,
+which the abrupt bend curves into horseshoe form. This fall is about
+one hundred and fifty-eight feet high, the height of the smaller fall
+on the American side being one hundred and sixty-four feet. The two
+cataracts spread out to forty-seven hundred and fifty feet breadth,
+the steep wooded bank of Goat Island, separating them, occupying about
+one-fourth the distance. The American fall is about eleven hundred
+feet wide and the Canadian fall twice that width, the actual line of
+the descending waters on the latter being much larger than the breadth
+of the river because of its curving form. Recent changes, caused by
+falling rock in the apex of this fall, have, however, made it a more
+symmetrical horseshoe than had been the case for years. The Niagara
+River, just below the cataract, contracts to about one thousand feet,
+widening to twelve hundred and fifty feet beneath the new single-arch
+steel bridge recently constructed a short distance farther down. For
+seven miles the gorge is carved out, the river banks on both sides
+rising to the top level of the falls, and the bottom sinking deeper
+and deeper as the lower rapids descend towards Lewiston, and in some
+places contracting to very narrow limits. Two miles below the cataract
+the river is compressed within eight hundred feet, and a mile farther
+down, at the outlet of the Whirlpool, where a sharp right-angled turn
+is made, the enormous current is contracted within a space of less
+than two hundred and fifty feet. In the seven miles distance, these
+lower rapids descend about one hundred and four feet, and then with
+placid current the Niagara River flows a few miles farther northward
+to Lake Ontario.
+
+The view of Niagara is impressive alike upon sight and hearing, and
+this impressiveness grows upon the visitor. From the bridge just below
+the American fall, and from the Canadian side, the whole grand scene
+is in full display, and quickly convinces that no description can
+exaggerate Niagara. The Indians first told of the falls, and they are
+indicated on Champlain's map of 1632. In 1648 the Jesuit missionary
+Rugueneau wrote of them as a "cataract of frightful height." The first
+white man who saw them was Father Louis Hennepin, the Franciscan, in
+1678, who described them as "a vast and prodigious cadence of water
+which falls down after a surprising and astonishing manner, insomuch
+that the universe does not afford its parallel. The waters which fall
+from this horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most hideous
+manner imaginable, making an outrageous noise more terrible than that
+of thunder, for when the wind blows out of the south their dismal
+roaring may be heard more than fifteen leagues off." Upon Charles
+Dickens the first and enduring effect, instant and lasting, of the
+tremendous spectacle, was: "Peace--peace of mind, tranquility, calm
+recollections of the dead, great thoughts of eternal rest and
+happiness." The falls had a sanative influence upon Professor Tyndall,
+for, "quickened by the emotions there aroused," he says, "the blood
+sped exultingly through the arteries, abolishing introspection,
+clearing the heart of all bitterness, and enabling one to think with
+tolerance, if not with tenderness, upon the most relentless and
+unreasonable foe." After Anthony Trollope had looked upon the cataract
+he wrote: "Of all the sights on this earth of ours, I know no other
+one thing so beautiful, so glorious and so powerful. That fall is more
+graceful than Giotto's Tower, more noble than the Apollo. The peaks of
+the Alps are not so astounding in their solitude. The valleys of the
+Blue Mountains in Jamaica are less green. The finished glaze of life
+in Paris is less invariable; and the full tide of trade around the
+Bank of England is not so inexorably powerful."
+
+
+GEOLOGICAL FORMATION OF NIAGARA.
+
+The estimate is that nine hundred millions of cubic feet of water pour
+over Niagara every hour, and great as this mass is, there is a belief
+that half the water passing into Lake Erie from the upper lakes does
+not go over the falls, but finds its way into Ontario through a
+subterranean channel. Nothing demonstrates this theory, but it is
+advanced to account for the difference between the amount of water
+accumulated in the upper lakes and that going over the falls. The
+actual current is sufficiently enormous, however, and steadily wearing
+away the rocks over which it descends, it has during the past ages
+excavated the gorge of the lower rapids. The land surface, which is
+low at Lake Erie, scarcely rising above the level of its waters,
+gradually becomes more elevated towards the north, till near Lewiston
+it is about forty feet above Erie. The Niagara River thus flows in the
+direction of the ascent of this moderately inclined plane. Beyond this
+the surface makes a sudden descent towards Lake Ontario of about two
+hundred and fifty feet down to a plateau, upon which stands Lewiston
+on the American side and Queenston on the Canadian side of the river.
+There thus is formed a bold terrace looking out upon Ontario, from
+which that lake is seven miles away, and from the foot of the terrace
+the surface descends gently one hundred and twenty feet farther to the
+lake shore. The gorge through which the river flows is three hundred
+and sixty-six feet deep at this terrace. There is no doubt the first
+location of the great cataract was on the face of the terrace near
+Lewiston, and it has gradually retired by the eating away, year after
+year, of the rocky ledges over which the waters pour. This, however,
+has not been done in a hurry, for the geologists studying the subject
+estimate that it has required nearly thirty-seven thousand years to
+bring the falls from Lewiston back to their present location. In fact,
+from the stratification, Professor Agassiz expressed the opinion that
+at one time there were three distinct cataracts in Niagara River.
+
+During the brief time observations have been made, great fragments of
+rocks have been repeatedly carried down by the current pouring over
+Niagara, the frosts assisting disintegration. This caused not only a
+recession but decided changes in appearance. Since 1842 the New York
+State geologists, who then made a careful and accurate topographical
+map, have been closely watching these changes, and the average rate of
+recession is estimated at slightly over two feet annually. In Father
+Hennepin's sketch of 1678 there was a striking feature, since entirely
+disappeared, a third fall on the Canadian side facing the line of the
+main cataract, and caused by a large rock turning the diverted fall in
+this direction, this rock falling, however, in the eighteenth century.
+The rate at which recessions occur is not uniform. No change may be
+apparent for several years, and the soft underlying strata being
+gradually worn away, great masses of the upper and harder formations
+then tumble down, causing in a brief period marked changes. At the
+present location of the cataract, sheets of hard limestone cover the
+surface of the country, and from the top of the falls to eighty or
+ninety feet depth. Shaly layers are under these. All the strata slope
+gently downward against the river current at the rate of about
+twenty-five feet to the mile. Above the falls, in the rapids, the
+limestone strata are piled upon each other, until about fifty feet
+more are added to the formation, when they all disappear under the
+outcropping edges of the next series above, composed of marls and
+shales. Through these piles of strata the cataract has worked its way
+back, receding probably most rapidly in cases where, as at present,
+the lower portion of the cutting was composed of soft beds of rock,
+which being hollowed out and removed by frost and water, let down the
+harder strata above. The effect of continual recession must be to
+diminish the height of the falls, both by raising the river level at
+their base and by the sloping of the surmounting limestone strata to a
+lower level. A recession of two miles farther, the geologists say,
+will cut away both the hard and the soft layers, and then the cataract
+will become almost stationary on the lower sandstone formation, with
+its height reduced to about eighty feet. This diminution in the
+Niagara attractions might be startling were it not estimated that it
+can hardly be accomplished for some twelve thousand years.
+
+
+APPEARANCE OF NIAGARA.
+
+The best view of the great cataract is from the Canadian shore just
+below it, where, from an elevation, the upper rapids can be seen
+flowing to the brink of the fall. A bright day is an advantage, when
+the green water tints are most marked. The Canadian shore above,
+curves around from the westward, and in front are the dark and
+precipitous cliffs of Goat Island, surmounted by foliage. The Canadian
+rapids come to the brink an almost unbroken sheet of foaming waters,
+but the narrower rapids on the American side are closer, and have a
+background of little islands, with torrents foaming between. The
+current passing over the American fall seems shallow, compared with
+the solid masses of bright green water pouring down the Canadian
+horseshoe. There, on either hand, is an edge of foaming streams,
+looking like clusters of constantly descending frosted columns, with a
+broad and deeply recessed, bright-green central cataract, giving the
+impressive idea of millions of tons of water pouring into an abyss,
+the bottom of which is obscured by seething and fleecy clouds of
+spray. On either side, dark-brown, water-worn rocks lie at the base,
+while the spray bursts out into mammoth explosions, like puffs of
+white smoke suddenly darting from parks of artillery. The water comes
+over the brink comparatively slowly, then falls with constantly
+accelerated speed, the colors changing as the velocity increases and
+air gets into the torrent, until the original bright green becomes a
+foaming white, which is quickly lost behind the clouds of spray
+beneath. These clouds slowly rise in a thin, transparent veil far
+above the cataract. From under the spray the river flows towards us,
+its eddying currents streaked with white. A little steamboat moves
+among the eddies, and goes almost under the mass of falling water, yet
+finds a practically smooth passage. Closer, on the left hand, the
+American fall appears a rough and broken cataract, almost all foam,
+with green tints showing through, and at intervals along its face
+great masses of water spurting forward through the torrent as a rocky
+obstruction may be met part way down. The eye fascinatingly follows
+the steadily increasing course of the waters as they descend from top
+to bottom upon the piles of boulders dimly seen through the spray
+clouds. Adjoining the American cataract is the water-worn wall of the
+chasm, built of dark red stratified rocks, looking as if cut down
+perpendicularly by a knife, and whitened towards the top, where the
+protruding limestone formation surmounts the lower shales. Upon the
+faces of the cliffs can be traced the manner in which the water in
+past ages gradually carved out the gorge, while at their bases the
+sloping talus of fallen fragments is at the river's edge. Through the
+deep and narrow canyon the greenish waters move away towards the
+rapids below. It all eternally falls, and foams and roars, and the
+ever-changing views displayed by the world's great wonder make an
+impression unlike anything else in nature.
+
+
+GOAT ISLAND.
+
+Niagara presents other spectacles; the islands scattered among the
+upper rapids; their swiftly flowing, foaming current rushing wildly
+along; the remarkable lower gorge, where the torrent making the
+grandest rapids runs finally into the Whirlpool basin with its
+terrific swirls and eddies--these join in making the colossal
+exhibition. Added to all is the impressive idea of the resistless
+forces of Nature and of the elements. Few places are better fitted for
+geological study, and by day or night the picture presents constant
+changes of view, exerting the most powerful influence upon the mind.
+Goat Island between the two falls is a most interesting place,
+covering, with the adjacent islets, about sixty acres, and it was long
+a favorite Indian Cemetery. The Indians had a tradition that the falls
+demand two human victims every year, and the number of deaths from
+accident and suicide fully maintains the average. There have been
+attempts to romantically rename this as Iris Island, but the popular
+title remains, which was given from the goats kept there by the
+original white settlers. It was from a ladder one hundred feet high,
+elevated upon the lower bank of Goat Island, near the edge of the
+Canadian fall, that Sam Patch, in 1829, jumped down the Falls of
+Niagara. He endeavored to gain fame and a precarious living by jumping
+down various waterfalls, and not content with this exploit, made the
+jump at the Genesee falls at Rochester and was drowned. A bridge
+crosses from the American shore to Goat Island, and it is recorded
+that two bull-terrier dogs thrown from this bridge have made the
+plunge over the American falls and survived it. One of them lived all
+winter on the carcass of a cow he found on the rocks below, and the
+other, very much astonished and grieved, is said to have trotted up
+the stairs from the steamboat wharf about one hour after being thrown
+into the water and making the plunge.
+
+From the upper point of Goat Island a bar stretches up the river, and
+can be plainly seen dividing the rapids which pass on either side to
+the American and Canadian falls. A foot-bridge from Goat Island, on
+the American side, leads to the pretty little Luna Island, standing at
+the brink of the cataract and dividing its waters. The narrow channel
+between makes a miniature waterfall, under which is the famous "Cave
+of the Winds." Here the venturesome visitor goes actually under
+Niagara, for the space behind the waterfall is hollowed out of the
+rocks, and amid the rushing winds and spray an idea can be got of the
+effects produced by the greater cataracts. Here are seen the rainbows
+formed by the sunlight on the spray in complete circles; and the cave,
+one hundred feet high, and recessed into the wall of the cliff, gives
+an excellent exhibition of the undermining processes constantly going
+on. Upon the Canadian side of Goat Island, at the edge of the fall,
+foot-bridges lead over the water-worn and honeycombed rocks to the
+brink of the great Horseshoe. Amid an almost deafening roar, with
+rushing waters on either hand, there can be got in this place probably
+the best near view of the greater cataract. Here are the Terrapin
+Rocks, and over on the Canadian side, at the base of the chasm, are
+the fragments of Table Rock and adjacent rocks which have recently
+fallen, with enormous masses of water beating upon them. In the midst
+of the rapids on the Canadian side of Goat Island are also the pretty
+little islands known as the "Three Sisters" and their diminutive
+"Little Brother," with cascades pouring over the ledges between
+them--a charming sight. The steep descent of the rapids can here be
+realized, the torrent plunging down from far above one's head, and
+rushing over the falls. This fascinating yet precarious region has
+seen terrible disasters and narrow escapes. The overpowering view of
+all, from Goat Island, is the vast mass of water pouring down the
+Canadian falls. This is fully twenty feet in depth at the brink of the
+cataract, and it tumbles from all around the deeply recessed Horseshoe
+into an apparently bottomless pool, no one yet having been able to
+sound its depth. In 1828 the "Michigan," a condemned ship from Lake
+Erie, was sent over this fall, large crowds watching. She drew
+eighteen feet water and passed clear of the top. Among other things on
+her deck were a black bear and a wooden statue of General Andrew
+Jackson. The wise bear deserted the ship in the midst of the rapids
+and swam ashore. The ship was smashed to pieces by the fall, but the
+first article seen after the plunge was the statue of "Old Hickory,"
+popping headforemost up through the waters unharmed. This was
+considered a favorable omen, for in the autumn he was elected
+President of the United States.
+
+
+THE RAPIDS AND THE WHIRLPOOL.
+
+The surface of Niagara River below the cataract is for some distance
+comparatively calm, so that small boats can move about and pass almost
+under the mass of descending waters. The deep and narrow gorge
+stretches far to the north with two ponderous international railroad
+bridges thrown across it in the distance, carrying over the Vanderbilt
+and Grand Trunk roads. An electric road is constructed down the bottom
+of the gorge on the American bank, and another along its top on the
+Canadian side. The water flows with occasional eddies, its color a
+brilliant green under the sunlight, the gorge steadily deepening, the
+channel narrowing, and when it passes under the two railroad bridges,
+which are close together, the river begins its headlong course down
+the Lower Rapids leading to the Whirlpool. With the speed of an
+express train, the torrent runs under these bridges, tossing, foaming
+and rolling in huge waves, buffeting the rocks, and thus it rushes
+into the Whirlpool. Viewed from the bottom of the gorge alongside the
+torrent, the effect is almost painful, its tempestuous whirl and
+headlong speed having a tendency to make the observer giddy. The
+rushing stream is elevated in the centre far above the sides, the
+waves in these rapids at times rising thirty feet, tossing wildly in
+all directions, and coming together with tremendous force. Huge rocks,
+fallen in earlier ages, evidently underlie the torrent. It was in
+these terrible rapids that several daring spirits, and notably Captain
+Webb in 1883, attempted, unprotected, to swim the river, and paid the
+penalty with their lives. More recently these rapids have been safely
+passed in casks, peculiarly constructed, although the passengers got
+rough usage. The Whirlpool at the end of the rapids is a most
+extraordinary formation. The torrent runs into an oblong pool, within
+an elliptical basin, the outlet being at the side through a narrow
+gorge not two hundred and fifty feet wide, above which the rocky walls
+tower for three hundred feet. Into this basin the waters rush from the
+rapids, their current pushing to its farthest edge, and then, rebuffed
+by the bank of the abyss, returning in an eddy on either hand. These
+two great eddies steadily circle round and round, and logs coming down
+the rapids sometimes swim there for days before they are allowed to
+get to the outlet. Upon the left-hand side of this remarkable pool the
+eddy whirls around without obstruction, while that upon the right
+hand, where the outlet is, rebounds upon the incoming torrent and is
+thrown back in huge waves of mixed foam and green, the escaping waters
+finally rushing out through the narrow opening, and on down more
+brawling rapids to the end of the deep and wonderful gorge, and thence
+in placid stream through the level land northward to Lake Ontario.
+
+
+NIAGARA INDUSTRIES AND BATTLES.
+
+The town of Niagara Falls, which has about seven thousand people, long
+had its chief source of prosperity in the influx of sight-seers, but
+it has recently developed into an important industrial centre through
+the establishment of large works utilizing the power of the falls by
+means of electricity. Some distance above the cataract on the American
+side a tunnel starts, of which the outlet is just below the American
+fall. This tunnel is one hundred and sixty-five feet below the river
+surface at the initial point, and passes about two hundred feet
+beneath the town, being over a mile long. Part of the waters of the
+Upper Rapids are diverted to the head of the tunnel, and by falling
+through deep shafts upon turbine wheels the water-power is utilized
+for dynamos, and in this way an enormous force is obtained from the
+electricity, which is used in various kinds of manufacturing, for
+trolley roads and other purposes, some of the power being conducted to
+Buffalo. A similar method is to be availed of on the Canadian side. It
+is estimated that in various ways the Niagara Falls furnish fully four
+hundred thousand horse-power for industrial uses, and the amount
+constantly increases. The largest dynamos in the world, and the most
+complete electrical adaptations of power are installed at these
+Niagara works.
+
+But the history of Niagara has not been always scenic and industrial.
+In 1763 occurred the horrible massacre of the "Devil's Hole,"
+alongside the gorge of the Lower Rapids, when a band of Senecas
+ambushed a French commissary train with an escort, the whole force but
+two, who escaped, being killed, while reinforcements, hurried from
+Lewiston at the sound of the muskets, were nearly all caught and
+tomahawked in a second ambush. Many of the victims were thrown alive
+from the cliffs into the boiling Niagara rapids, their horses and
+wagons being hurled down after them. There were repeated actions near
+Niagara in the War of 1812. In October, 1812, the battle of Queenston
+Heights was fought, the Americans storming the terrace and killing
+General Brock, the British commander, whose monument is erected there,
+but being finally defeated and most of them captured. There were
+various contests near by in 1813, and the battle of Chippewa took
+place above the falls on July 5, 1814, the British being defeated. On
+July 25th the battle of Lundy's Lane was fought just west of the
+falls, between sunset and midnight of a summer night, a contest with
+varying success and doubtful result, the noise of the conflict
+commingling with the roar of the cataract, and the dead of both armies
+being buried on the field, so that, in the words of Lossing, "the
+mighty diapason of the flood was their requiem."
+
+     "O'er Huron's wave the sun was low,
+     The weary soldier watched the bow
+     Fast fading from the cloud below
+         The dashing of Niagara.
+
+     "And while the phantom chained his sight
+     Ah! little thought he of the fight,--
+     The horrors of the dreamless night,
+         That posted on so rapidly."
+
+Thus majestically wrote Mrs. Sigourney of this matchless cataract of
+Niagara:
+
+     "Flow on forever in thy glorious robe
+     Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on,
+     Unfathomed and resistless. God hath set
+     His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud
+     Mantled around thy feet. And He doth give
+     Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him
+     Eternally--bidding the lip of man
+     Keep silence, and upon thine altar pour
+     Incense of awe-struck praise. Earth fears to lift
+     The insect trump that tells her trifling joys,
+     Or fleeting triumphs, 'mid the peal sublime
+     Of thy tremendous hymn. Proud Ocean shrinks
+     Back from thy brotherhood, and all his waves
+     Retire abashed. For he hath need to sleep,
+     Sometimes, like a spent laborer, calling home
+     His boisterous billows from their vexing play,
+     To a long, dreary calm: but thy strong tide
+     Faints not, nor e'er with failing heart forgets
+     Its everlasting lesson, night or day.
+     The morning stars, that hailed Creation's birth,
+     Heard thy hoarse anthem mixing with their song
+     Jehovah's name; and the dissolving fires,
+     That wait the mandate of the day of doom
+     To wreck the Earth, shall find it deep inscribed
+     Upon thy rocky scroll."
+
+
+
+
+DESCENDING THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.
+
+
+
+
+XIV.
+
+DESCENDING THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.
+
+     The Great River of Canada -- Jacques Cartier -- The Great Lakes
+     -- The Ancient Course -- The St. Lawrence Canals -- Toronto --
+     Lake of the Thousand Islands -- Kingston -- Garden of the Great
+     Spirit -- Clayton -- Frontenac -- Round Island -- Alexandria
+     Bay -- Brockville -- Ogdensburg -- Prescott -- Galop, Plat and
+     Long Sault Rapids -- Cornwall -- St. Regis -- Lake St. Francis
+     -- Coteau, Split Rock, Cascades and Cedars Rapids -- Lake St.
+     Louis -- Lachine -- Caughnawaga -- Lachine Rapids -- Montreal
+     -- St. Mary's Current -- St. Helen's Island -- Montreal
+     Churches and Religious Houses -- Hochelaga -- First Religious
+     Colonization -- Dauversière and Olier -- Society of Notre Dame
+     de Montreal -- Maisonneuve -- Mademoiselle Mance -- Marguerite
+     Bourgeoys -- Madame de la Peltrie -- The Accommodation --
+     Victoria Tubular Bridge -- Seminary of St. Sulpice -- Hotel
+     Dieu -- The Black Nuns -- The Gray Nunnery -- McGill University
+     -- Place d'Armes -- Church of Notre Dame -- Cathedral of St.
+     Peter -- Notre Dame de Lourdes -- Christ Church Cathedral --
+     Champ de Mars -- Notre Dame de Bonsecours -- Rapids of St. Anne
+     -- Lake of the Two Mountains -- Trappists -- Mount Royal --
+     Ottawa River -- Long Sault Rapids -- Thermopylæ -- Louis Joseph
+     Papineau -- Riviere aux Lièvres -- The Habitan -- The Metis --
+     Ottawa -- Bytown -- Chaudière Falls -- Rideau Canal -- Dominion
+     Government Buildings -- Richelieu River -- Lake St. Peter --
+     St. Francis River -- Three Rivers -- Shawanagan Fall -- St.
+     Augustin -- Sillery -- Quebec -- Stadacona -- Samuel de
+     Champlain -- Montmagny -- Laval de Montmorency -- Jesuit
+     Missionaries -- Father Davion -- The French Gentilhomme -- Cape
+     Diamond -- Charles Dilke -- Henry Ward Beecher -- Castle of St.
+     Louis -- Quebec Citadel -- Wolfe-Montcalm Monument -- General
+     Montgomery -- Plains of Abraham -- General Wolfe -- The
+     Basilica -- The Seminary -- English Cathedral -- Bishop
+     Mountain -- The Ursulines -- Marie Guyart -- Montcalm's Skull
+     -- Hotel Dieu -- Fathers Brébeuf and Lalemont and their
+     Martyrdom -- Notre Dame des Victoires -- Dufferin Terrace --
+     Point Levis -- Beauport -- French Cottages -- Faith of the
+     Habitans -- Cardinal Newman -- Falls of Montmorency -- La Bonne
+     Sainte Anne -- Isle of Orleans -- St. Laurent and St. Pierre --
+     The Laurentides -- Cape Tourmente -- Bay of St. Paul -- Mount
+     Eboulements -- Murray Bay -- Kamouraska -- Riviere du Loup --
+     Cacouna -- Tadousac -- Saguenay River -- Grand Discharge and
+     Little Discharge -- Ha Ha Bay -- Chicoutimi -- Capes Trinity
+     and Eternity -- Restigouche Region -- Micmac Indians --
+     Glooscap -- Lorette -- Roberval -- Lake St. John -- Montaignais
+     Indians -- Trois Pistoles -- Rimouski -- Gaspé -- Notre Dame
+     Mountains -- Labrador -- Grand Falls -- The Fishermen.
+
+
+THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA.
+
+     "The first time I beheld thee, beauteous stream,
+       How pure, how smooth, how broad thy bosom heav'd!
+     What feelings rushed upon my heart!--a gleam
+       As of another life my kindling soul received."
+
+Thus sang Maria Brooks to the noble river St. Lawrence, which the
+earlier geographers always called "the Great River of Canada." The
+first adventurous white man who crossed the seas and found it was the
+intrepid French navigator, Jacques Cartier, who sailed into its broad
+bay on the festival day of the martyred Saint Lawrence, in 1534. When
+this bold explorer started from France on his voyage of discovery he
+was fired with religious zeal. St. Malo, on the coast of Brittany, was
+then the chief French seaport, and before departing, the entire
+company of officers and sailors piously attended a solemn High Mass
+in the old Cathedral, and in the presence of thousands received the
+venerable Archbishop's blessing upon their enterprise. Cartier, like
+all the rest of the early discoverers, was sent under the auspices of
+the French Government to hunt for the "Northwest Passage," the short
+route from Europe to the Indies, or, as described in his instructions,
+to seek "the new road to Cathay." The Church naturally bestowed its
+most earnest benisons upon an enterprise promising unlimited religious
+expansion in the realms France might secure across the Atlantic.
+Carrier's chief ship was only of one hundred and twenty tons, but the
+little fleet crossed the ocean in safety, and on July 9th entered a
+large bay south of the St. Lawrence, encountering such intense heats
+that it was named the Bay de Chaleurs, being still thus called. After
+an extensive examination of the neighboring coasts and bays, Cartier
+returned home, reporting that the Canadian summers were as warm as
+those of France, but giving no information of the extreme cold of the
+winters. This the sun-loving Gauls did not discover until later.
+Cartier came back the next year, and sailed up what he had already
+named the "Great River," describing it as the most enormous in the
+world. The Indians told his wondering sailors "it goes so far that no
+man hath ever been to the end that they had heard." The explorers
+carefully examined the vast stream, its shores and branches, and were
+sure, as they reported, that its sombre tributary, the Saguenay,
+"comes from the Sea of Cathay, for in this place there issues a strong
+current, and there runs here a terrible tide." They saw numerous
+whales and other sea-monsters, but found the water too deep for
+soundings, and in fact the river St. Lawrence cannot be sounded for
+one hundred and fifty miles up from its mouth.
+
+
+ITS VAST EXTENT AND FEATURES.
+
+The St. Lawrence is an enormous river, having much the largest estuary
+of any river on the globe, the tidal current flowing five hundred
+miles up the stream, and its mouth spreading ninety-six miles wide. It
+is the outlet of the greatest body of fresh water in existence,
+draining seven vast lakes--Nepigon, Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie,
+Ontario and Champlain--besides myriads of smaller ones, including the
+Central New York lakes, hundreds in the Adirondack forests, and
+thousands in the vast Canadian wilderness. The St. Lawrence basin
+covers a territory of over four hundred thousand square miles, and has
+been computed as containing more than half the fresh water on the
+planet. The main St. Lawrence river is seven hundred and fifty miles
+long from Lake Ontario to the head of the Gulf, while the total length
+of the whole system of lakes and rivers is over two thousand miles,
+and has been computed by some patient mathematician to contain a mass
+of fresh water equal to twelve thousand cubic miles, of which one
+cubic mile goes over Niagara Falls every week. The early geographers
+usually located the head of the system in Lake Nepigon, north of
+Superior, but it is thought the longer line to the ocean is from the
+source of St. Louis River, flowing through Minnesota into the
+southwestern extremity of Lake Superior at Duluth. The bigness of the
+wonderful St. Lawrence is shown in everything about it. Thoreau, who
+was such a keen observer, has written that this great river rises near
+another "Father of Waters," the Mississippi, and "issues from a
+remarkable spring, far up in the woods, fifteen hundred miles in
+circumference," called Lake Superior, while "it makes such a noise in
+its tumbling down at one place (Niagara) as is heard all round the
+world." The geologists, however, who usually upturn most things,
+declare that it did not always reach the sea as now. Originally the
+St. Lawrence, they say, flowed into the ocean by going out through the
+Narrows in New York harbor, and its immense current broke the passage
+through the West Point Highlands in a mighty stream, compared with
+which the present Hudson River is a pigmy. Professor Newberry writes
+that during countless ages this enormous river, which no human eyes
+beheld, carried off the surplus waters of a great drainage area with a
+rapid current cutting down its gorge many hundred feet in depth,
+reaching from the Lake Superior basin to the Narrows, where it
+dispersed in a vast delta, debouching upon a sea then much lower in
+level than now, and having its shore-line about eighty miles southeast
+of New York. By some stupendous convulsion this channel was changed,
+drift banked up the old valley of the Mohawk, and the outflow was
+deflected from the northeast corner of Lake Ontario into the present
+shallow and rocky channel, filled with islands and rapids, followed by
+the St. Lawrence down to Montreal.
+
+The system of navigable water ways from Duluth and Port Arthur on Lake
+Superior to the Strait of Belle Isle is twenty-two hundred miles long.
+At Lake Ontario the head of the St. Lawrence River is two hundred and
+thirty-one feet above the sea level, and its current descends that
+distance to tidewater chiefly by going down successive rapids. There
+are ship canals around these rapids and around Niagara Falls, and also
+connecting various lakes above. The Sault Sainte Marie locks and
+canals, at the outlet of Lake Superior, have already been described.
+The admirable systems conducting navigation around the rapids in the
+river below Lake Ontario also carry a large tonnage. Between
+Ogdensburg and Montreal, a distance of about one hundred and twenty
+miles, the navigation of forty-three miles is through six canals of
+various lengths around the rapids, each having elaborate locks. The
+Gulf of St. Lawrence is also constructed upon an enormous scale,
+covering eighty thousand square miles, and with the lower river
+having a tidal ebb and flow of eighteen to twenty-four feet. The mouth
+of the river and head of the Gulf are usually located at Cape Chatte,
+far below the Saguenay, and from the Cape almost up to Quebec the
+river is ten to thirty miles wide. In front of Quebec it narrows to
+less than a mile, while above, the width is from one to two and a half
+miles to Montreal, expanding to ten miles at Lake St. Peter, where the
+tidal influence ceases. Above Montreal the river occasionally expands
+into lakes, but is generally a broad and strongly flowing stream with
+frequent rapids. The largest ocean vessels freely ascend to Montreal,
+at the head of ship navigation, Lachine rapids being just above the
+city. For several months in winter, however, ice prevents.
+
+
+THE CITY OF TORONTO.
+
+Lake Ontario, out of which the river St. Lawrence flows, is nearly two
+hundred miles long, and in some places seventy miles wide. It has
+generally low shores and but few islands, and the name given it by
+Champlain was Lake St. Louis, after the King of France. The original
+Indian name, however, has since been retained, Ontario meaning "how
+beautiful is the rock standing in the water." Three well-known
+Canadian cities are upon its shores--Hamilton at the western end,
+Toronto on the northern coast, and Kingston near the eastern end.
+Hamilton is a busy, industrial and commercial city of fifty thousand
+people, having a good harbor. The great port, however, is Toronto,
+with over two hundred thousand inhabitants, the capital of the
+Province of Ontario, and the headquarters of the Scottish and Irish
+Protestants, who settled and rule Upper Canada, the richest and most
+populous province of the Dominion. Toronto means "the place of
+meeting," and the word was first heard in the seventeenth century as
+applied to the country of the Hurons, between Lakes Huron and Simcoe,
+the name being afterwards given to the Indian portage route, starting
+from Lake Ontario, in the present city limits, over to that country.
+Here, in 1749, the French established a small trading-post, Fort
+Rouille, but there was no settlement to speak of for a century or
+more. The United Empire Loyalists, under General Simcoe, founded the
+present city in 1793 under the name of York, and it was made the
+capital of Upper Canada, of which Simcoe was Governor. The location
+was an admirable one. The portage led up a romantic little stream, now
+called Humber River, while out in front was an excellent harbor,
+protected by a long, low, forest-clad island, making a perfect
+land-locked basin, sheltered from the storms of the lake. The nucleus
+of a town was thus started on a tract of marshy land, adjoining the
+Humber, familiarly known for nearly a half century as "Muddy Little
+York," which characteristic a part of the city still retains, as the
+pedestrian in falling weather can testify. Yet the site is a pleasing
+one--two little rivers, the Humber and the Don, flowing down to the
+lake through deep and picturesque ravines, having the city between and
+along them, while there is a gradual slope upward to an elevation of
+two hundred feet and over at some distance inland, an ancient terrace,
+which was the bank of the lake.
+
+The town did not grow much at first, and during the War of 1812 it was
+twice captured by the Americans, but they could not hold it long. As
+the back country was settled and lake navigation afterwards developed,
+however, the harbor became of importance and the city grew, being
+finally incorporated as Toronto. Then it got a great impetus and
+became known as the "Queen City," its geographical advantages as a
+centre of railway as well as water routes attracting a large
+immigration, so that it has grown to be the second city in Canada, and
+its people hope it may outstrip Montreal and become the first. It has
+achieved a high rank commercially, and in religion and education, so
+that there are substantial grounds for the claim, often made, that it
+is the "Boston of Canada." It contains a church for about every
+thousand inhabitants, Sunday is observed with great strictness, and it
+has in the University of Toronto the chief educational foundation in
+the Dominion, and in the _Toronto Globe_ the leading organ of Canadian
+Liberalism. The city spreads for eight miles along the lake shore; the
+streets are laid out at right angles, and there are many fine
+buildings. Yonge Street, dividing the city, stretches northward from
+the harbor forty miles inland to the shore of Lake Simcoe. There are
+attractive residential streets, with many ornate dwellings in tasteful
+gardens. St. James' Cathedral, near Yonge Street, is a fine Early
+English structure, with a noble clock and a grand spire rising three
+hundred and sixteen feet. There is a new City Hall, an enormous
+Romanesque building with an impressive tower, and Osgoode Hall, the
+seat of the Ontario Superior Courts, in Italian Renaissance, its name
+being given from the first Chief Justice of Upper Canada. In Queen's
+Park are the massive Grecian buildings of the Provincial Parliament,
+finished in 1892 at a cost of $1,500,000. This Park contains a bronze
+statue of George Brown, long a leading Canadian statesman, and a
+monument erected in memory of the men who fell in repelling the Fenian
+invasion of 1866.
+
+The buildings of the University of Toronto, to the westward of the
+Queen's Park, are extensive and form a magnificent architectural
+group. The main building is Norman, with a massive central tower,
+rebuilt in 1890, after having been burnt. There are fifteen hundred
+students, and the University offers complete courses in the arts and
+sciences, law and medicine. To the northward is McMaster Hall, a
+Baptist theological college, tastefully constructed and liberally
+endowed. From the top of the tall University tower there is an
+admirable view over the city and far across the lake. The town
+spreads broadly out on either hand, running down to the harbor, beyond
+which is the narrow streak made by the low-lying island enclosing it.
+Far to the southward stretch the sparkling waters of Ontario, reaching
+to the horizon, while in the distance can be seen a faint little
+silver cloud of spray rising from Niagara. In the northern background
+villas dot the green and wooded hillsides, showing how the city
+spreads, while in every direction the incomplete buildings and the
+gentle distant noises of the builder's hammer and trowel testify to
+its robust growth. Many steamers move about the harbor, and among them
+are the ferry-boats carrying crowds over to the low-lying island, with
+its many amusement places, the city's great recreation ground. At
+Hanlon's Point, its western end, was long the home of Hanlon, the
+"champion sculler of the world," one of Toronto's celebrities.
+
+
+THE LAKE OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.
+
+Out of Ontario the great river St. Lawrence flows one hundred and
+seventy-two miles down to Montreal, being for much of the distance the
+boundary between the United States and Canada. Kingston, with
+twenty-five thousand people, guarded by picturesque graystone
+batteries and martello towers--the "Limestone City"--stands at the
+head of the river where it issues from the lake. To the westward is
+the entrance of the spacious Bay of Quinté, and on the eastern side
+the terminus of the Rideau Canal, leading northeastward to the Rideau
+River and Ottawa, the Canadian capital. This was originally the French
+Fort Cataraqui, established at the mouth of Cataraqui River in 1672,
+the name being subsequently changed by Count Frontenac to Frontenac.
+The Indian word Cataraqui means "Clay bank rising from the water," and
+after the fort was built the meaning changed to "fort rising from the
+water." Here the Sieur de La Salle, in 1678, built the first vessel
+navigating the lake. The British captured the fort in 1762, naming it
+Kingston, after the American Revolution, and by fortifying the
+promontories commanding the harbor, made it the strongest military
+post in Canada after Quebec and Halifax, the chief work being Fort
+Henry. Its garrisons have been long withdrawn, however, and now the
+old-time forts are useful chiefly as additions to the attractive
+scenery of its harbor and approaches. At the outlet of Ontario the
+course of the St. Lawrence begins with the noted archipelago known as
+the "Lake of the Thousand Islands," there being actually about
+seventeen hundred of them. This is a remarkable formation, composed
+largely of fragments of the range of Laurentian mountains, here coming
+southward out of Canada to the river, producing an extraordinary
+region. This Laurentian formation the geologists describe as the
+oldest land in the world--"the first rough sketch and axis of
+America." During countless ages this range has been worn down by the
+effect of rain, frost, snow and rivers, and scratched and broken by
+rough, resistless glaciers, and we are told that, compared with these
+fragmentary "Thousand Islands" and the almost worn-out mountains of
+the lower St. Lawrence basin, the Alps and the Andes are but creations
+of yesterday.
+
+Wolfe Island broadly obstructs the Ontario outlet between Kingston and
+Cape Vincent on the New York shore, and from them, with an
+island-filled channel, in some places twelve miles broad, the swift
+river current threads the archipelago by pleasant and tortuous
+passages nearly to Ogdensburg, forty miles below. These islands are of
+all sizes, shapes and appearance, varying from small low rocks and
+gaunt crags to gorgeous foliage-covered gardens. On account of their
+large numbers, the early French explorers named them "Les Milles
+Isles," and in the ancient chronicles they are described as
+"obstructing navigation and mystifying the most experienced Iroquois
+pilots." Fenimore Cooper located some of the most interesting
+incidents of his _Pathfinder_ in "that labyrinth of land and water,
+the Thousand Isles." The larger islands in spring and summer are
+generally covered with luxuriant vegetation, and the river shores are
+a delicious landscape of low but bold bluffs and fruitful fields
+spreading down to the water, with distant forests bounding the
+horizon. The atmosphere is usually dry, light and mellow, and the
+Indians, who admired this attractive region, appropriately called it
+Manatoana, or the "Garden of the Great Spirit." Howe Island adjoins
+Wolfe Island, and below is the long Grindstone Island. Here on the New
+York shore is the village of Clayton, where the New York Central
+Railroad comes up from Utica and Rome, the leading route to this
+region. Below is the almost circular Round Island with its large
+hotel, and everywhere are charming little islets, while ahead, down
+the St. Lawrence, are myriads more islands, apparently massed together
+in a maze of dark green distant foliage, the enchanted isles of a
+fascinating summer sea:
+
+     "The Thousand Isles, the Thousand Isles,
+     Dimpled, the wave around them smiles,
+     Kissed by a thousand red-lipped flowers,
+     Gemmed by a thousand emerald bowers.
+     A thousand birds their praises wake,
+     By rocky glade and plumy brake.
+     A thousand cedars' fragrant shade
+     Falls where the Indians' children played,
+     And Fancy's dream my heart beguiles
+     While singing of thee, Thousand Isles.
+
+     "There St. Lawrence gentlest flows,
+     There the south wind softest blows.
+     Titian alone hath power to paint
+     The triumph of their patron saint
+     Whose waves return on memory's tide;
+     La Salle and Piquet, side by side,
+     Proud Frontenac and bold Champlain
+     There act their wanderings o'er again;
+     And while the golden sunlight smiles,
+     Pilgrims shall greet thee, Thousand Isles."
+
+  [Illustration: _In the Thousand Islands, St. Lawrence_]
+
+Sailing down the river, group after group of big and little green
+islands are passed, the winding route and tortuous channels marked by
+diminutive lighthouses and beacons, while nearly every island has its
+cottages and often ornate and elaborate villas. Everywhere the shores
+appear to be granite rocks, bright green foliage varying with the
+darker evergreens surmounting them. All the waters are brilliantly
+green and clear as crystal, rippled by breezes laden with balsamic
+odors from the adjacent forests. Attractive cottages everywhere
+appear, with little attendant boat-houses down by the water side, and
+canoes and skiffs are in limitless supply, as the chief travelling is
+by them. Everything seems to be full of life; in all directions are
+pleasant views, the surface is dotted with pleasure-boats and
+white-sailed yachts, the whole region being semi-amphibious, and its
+people spending as much time on the water as on the land. The river,
+too, is a great highway of commerce among these islands, many large
+vessels passing along, and timber rafts guided by puffing little tugs.
+Much of the product of the Canadian forests is thus taken to market, a
+good deal going to Europe, and the sentimental and often musical
+Metis, who live aboard in huts or tents, are the raftsmen, working the
+broad sails and big steering-paddles on the tedious floating journey
+down to Quebec. There are many large hotels, and the big one on Round
+Island is named for Louis XIV.'s chivalrous and fiery Governor of
+Canada, Count de Frontenac. His remains are buried in the Basilica at
+Quebec, and his heart, enclosed in a leaden casket, was sent home to
+his widow in France. She was much younger, and, evidently piqued at
+some of his alleged love affairs, refused to receive it, saying she
+would not have a dead heart which had not been hers while living. The
+Baptists have a summer settlement on Round Island, and a short
+distance below the extensive Wellesley Island has on its upper end the
+popular Methodist summer town of the Thousand Island Park, where
+little cottages and tents around the great Tabernacle often take care
+of ten thousand people. Upon the lower end the Presbyterians have
+established their attractive resort, Westminster Park, which faces
+Alexandria Bay.
+
+
+ALEXANDRIA BAY.
+
+The chief settlement of the archipelago is the village of Alexandria
+Bay on the New York shore, and in the spacious reach of the river in
+front are the most famous and costly of the island cottages. Here are
+large hotels and many lodging-places, with a swelling population in
+the height of the season. Some of the island structures are
+unique--tall castles, palaces, imitations of iron-clads, forts and
+turrets--and many have been very costly. As most of the summer
+residents are Americans, those cottages are chiefly on the American
+side of the boundary, but there is also quite a group of island
+cottages over near the Canadian shore adjacent to the village of
+Gananoque. Alexandria Bay is a diminutive indentation in the New York
+shore, with a little red lighthouse out in front, while over to the
+northeast is spread a galaxy of the most famous islands, having fifty
+or more pretentious cottages scattered about the scene, amid the green
+foliage surmounting the rocky island foundations. In every direction
+go off channels among them of sparkling, dancing, green water, giving
+fine vista views, the dark crags at the water's edge underlying the
+frame of green foliage bounding the picture. The population has an
+aquatic flavor, and everybody seems to go about in boats, while the
+place has the air of a purely pleasure resort, evidently frozen up and
+hybernating when the tide of summer travel ebbs. In the season, the
+village presents a nightly carnival with its many-colored lights and
+dazzling fireworks displays over the rippling waters. For miles below
+Alexandria Bay, the islands stud the waters, although not so numerous
+nor so closely together as they are above. The largest of these is the
+long and narrow Grenadier Island in mid-river. Farther down they are
+usually small, some being only isolated rocks almost awash. The last
+of the islands are at Brockville, twenty-five miles below Alexandria
+Bay--the group of "Three Sisters," one large and two smaller,
+apparently dropped into the river opposite the town as if intended to
+support the piers of a bridge over to Morristown on the New York
+shore. This is an old and quiet Canadian town of nine thousand people,
+perpetuating the memory of General Sir Isaac Brock, who fell in the
+battle of Queenston Heights in October, 1812, and which is developing
+into a summer resort. Such is the charmed archipelago of attractive
+islands, unlike almost anything else in America, which brings so many
+pleasure and health seekers to the St. Lawrence to sing its praises:
+
+     "Fair St. Lawrence! What poet has sung of its grace
+     As it sleeps in the sun, with its smile-dimpled face
+     Beaming up to the sky that it mirrors! What brush
+     Has e'er pictured the charm of the marvellous hush
+     Of its silence; or caught the warm glow of its tints
+     As the afternoon wanes, and the even-star glints
+     In its beautiful depths? And what pen shall betray
+     The sweet secrets that hide from men's vision away
+     In its solitude wild? 'Tis the river of dreams;
+     You may float in your boat on the bloom-bordered streams,
+     Where its islands like emeralds matchless are set,
+     And forget that you live; and as quickly forget
+     That they die in the world you have left; for the calm
+     Of content is within you, the blessing of balm
+     Is upon you forever."
+
+
+SHOOTING THE RAPIDS.
+
+Ogdensburg is an active port on the St. Lawrence about twenty miles
+below Brockville, having a railroad through the Adirondacks over to
+Rouse's Point on Lake Champlain. Here flow in the dark-brown waters
+of the Oswegatchie, the Indian "Black River," coming out of those
+forests, which commingle in sharp contrast with the clear green
+current of the greater river. Prescott, antiquated and time-worn, is
+on the Canadian bank. The shores are generally low, with patches of
+woodland and farms, and the St. Lawrence below Ogdensburg begins to go
+down the rapids, having tranquil lakes and long wide stretches of
+placid waters intervening. The first rapid is the "Galop," flowing
+among flat grass-covered islands, with swift moving waters, but a
+small affair, scarcely discernible as the steamboat goes through it.
+The next one, the "Plat," is also passed without much trouble, and
+then a line of whitecaps ahead indicates the beginning of the "Long
+Sault," the most extensive rapid on the river. This is the "Long
+Leap," a rapid running for nine miles, its waters rushing down the
+rocky ledges at a speed of twenty miles an hour. All steam is shut
+off, and the river steamer is carried along by the movement of the
+seething, roaring current, the surface appearing much like the ocean
+in a storm. The rocking, sinking deck beneath one's feet gives a
+strange and startling sensation, and looking back at the incline down
+which the boat is sliding, it seems like a great angry wall of water
+chasing along from behind. An elongated island divides the channel
+through the "Long Sault," and there are other low islands adjacent;
+the boat, swaying among the rocks over which the waves leap in fury,
+being now lifted on their crests, and then dropped between them, but
+all the while gliding down hill, until still water and safety are
+reached at Cornwall. Here begins the northern boundary of New York,
+which goes due east through the Chateaugay forests across the land to
+Lake Champlain, and large factories front the river, getting their
+power from the waters above the rapid.
+
+Below Cornwall, which has an industrial population of some seven
+thousand, and the Indian village of St. Regis opposite, the St.
+Lawrence is wholly within Canada, and far off to the southeast rise
+the dark and distant Adirondack ranges. Soon the river broadens into
+the sluggish Lake St. Francis, at the head of which two well-known
+Adirondack streams flow in, the Racquette and St. Regis Rivers. The
+ancient village of St. Regis has its old church standing up
+conspicuously with a bright tin roof, for the air is so dry that tin
+is not painted in the Dominion. The bell hanging in the spire was sent
+out from France for the early Indian mission, but before landing, the
+vessel carrying it was captured by a colonial privateer and taken into
+Salem, Massachusetts. The bell, with other booty from the prize, was
+sold and sent to a church in Deerfield, then on the Massachusetts
+frontier. The St. Regis Huron Indians heard of this, and making a long
+march down there, recaptured their bell, massacred forty-seven people,
+and carried all the rest who could not escape, one hundred and twenty
+of them, including the church pastor and his family, captives back to
+Canada. Thus they brought the bell in triumph to St. Regis, and it has
+since hung undisturbed in the steeple, although the Indians who now
+hear it have become very few. The lake is twenty-eight miles long and
+very monotonous, although a distinguishing landmark is furnished by
+the massive buildings of St. Aniset Church, seen from afar on the
+southern shore.
+
+Coteau, at the end of the lake, has a railway swinging drawbridge,
+carrying the Canada Atlantic Railroad over, and below is another
+series of rapids. These are the "Coteau," with about two miles of
+swift current, making but slight impression; and then the "Cedars,"
+"Split Rock," and the "Cascades." The "Cedars" give a sensation, being
+composed of layers of rock down which the boat slides, as if settling
+from one ledge suddenly down to another, producing a curious feeling.
+It was here, in 1759, that General Amherst, by a sad mishap, had three
+hundred troops drowned. The "Split Rock" rapid is named from enormous
+boulders standing at its entrance, and a dangerous reef can be
+distinctly seen from the deck as the steamer apparently runs directly
+upon it, until the pilot swerves the boat aside, seemingly just in
+time. Then, tossing for a few moments upon the white-crested waves of
+the "Cascades," the steamer glides peacefully upon the tranquil
+surface of Lake St. Louis, which is fifteen miles long, and receives
+from the north the Ottawa River. Each little village on the banks of
+the lake and rivers is conspicuous from the large Roman Catholic
+Church around which it clusters, the steep bright tin roof and spire
+far out-topping all the other buildings. At the lower end of the lake
+a series of light-ships guide vessels into Lachine Canal, which goes
+down to Montreal, avoiding Lachine rapids, three miles long, the
+shortest series, but most violent of them all. Here, at the head of
+the rapids, stood the early French explorer, sent out to search for
+"the road to Cathay," and looking over the great lake spread out
+before him, with a view like old ocean, he shouted "La Chine!" for he
+thought that China was beyond it. The Canadian Pacific Railway bridge
+spans the river, and skirting the southern shore is the Indian town of
+Caughnawaga, with its little old houses and light stone church, the
+"village on the rapids." The steamboat then slides down Lachine
+rapids, the most difficult and dangerous passage of all, though it
+lasts but a few minutes--the exciting inclined plane of water, with
+rocks ahead and rocks beneath, indicated by swift and foaming
+cataracts running over and between them, and by stout thumps against
+the keel, sometimes making every timber shiver, and the apparent
+danger giving keen zest to the termination of the voyage. These rapids
+passed, the current below quickly floats the steamboat under the great
+Victoria tubular bridge, carrying the Grand Trunk Railway over, and
+the broad stone quays of Montreal are spread along the bank, with rank
+after rank of noble buildings behind them, and the tall twin towers of
+Notre Dame Cathedral rising beyond, glistening under the rays of the
+setting sun.
+
+
+THE CITY OF MONTREAL.
+
+The delta of the great Ottawa--the "river of the traders," as the
+Indians named it, debouching by several mouths into the St. Lawrence,
+of which it is the chief tributary, makes a number of islands, and
+Montreal stands on the southeastern side of the largest of them, with
+the broad river flowing in front. St. Mary's current runs strongly
+past the quays, and out there are the pretty wooded mounds of St.
+Helen's Island, named after Helen Boullé, the child-wife of Samuel de
+Champlain, the first European woman who came to Canada. She was only
+twelve years old when he married her, he being aged forty-four, and
+after his death she became an Ursuline nun. The miles of city
+water-front are superbly faced with long-walled quays of solid
+limestone masonry, and marked by jutting piers enclosing basins for
+the protection of the shipping against the powerful current. At the
+extremities of the rows of shipping, on either hand, up and down
+stream, loom the huge grain elevators. The piers are about ten feet
+lower than the walled embankment fronting the city, this being done to
+allow the ice to pass over them when it breaks up at the end of
+winter, the movement--called the "Ice Shove"--being an imposing sight.
+The elongated Victoria Bridge stands upon its row of gray limestone
+piers guarding the horizon up-river to the southward. Many storehouses
+and stately buildings rise behind the wharves, and beyond these are
+myriads of steeples, spires and domes, with the lofty Notre Dame
+towers in front. The background is made by the imposing mountain
+giving Montreal its name, called Mont Real originally, and now known
+as Mount Royal, rising to an elevation of nine hundred feet. Few
+cities of its size can boast so many fine buildings. The excellent
+building-stone of the neighborhood, a gray limestone, is utilized
+extensively, and this adds to the ornamental appearance, the city
+rising upon a series of terraces stretching back from the river and
+giving many good sites for construction. Numerous, massive and
+elaborate, the multitude of costly houses devoted to religion, trade
+and private residences are both a surprise and a charm. Mount Royal,
+rising boldly behind them, gives not only a noble background to the
+view from the river, but also a grand point of outlook, displaying
+their beauties to the utmost. The city has wide streets, generally
+lined with trees, and various public squares adding to the
+attractiveness.
+
+But the most prominent characteristic of the Canadian metropolis is
+the astonishing number of its convents, churches, and pious houses
+for religious and charitable uses. Churches are everywhere, built by
+all denominations, many being most elaborate and costly. The religious
+zeal of the community, holding all kinds of ecclesiastical belief, has
+found special vent in the universal development of church building.
+This commendable trait is their natural heritage, for the earliest
+French settlements on the St. Lawrence were largely due to religious
+zeal. When Jacques Cartier ascended the St. Lawrence upon his second
+voyage in 1535, he heard from the Indians at Quebec of a greater town
+far up the river, and bent upon exploration, he sailed in boats up to
+the Iroquois settlement of Hochelaga. Wrapped in forests behind it
+rose the great mountain which he named Mont Real, the "royal
+mountain," and in front, encompassed with corn-fields, was the Indian
+village, surrounded by triple rows of palisades. Landing, Cartier's
+party were admitted within the defensive walls to the central public
+square, where the squaws examined them with the greatest curiosity,
+and the sick and lame Indians were brought up to be healed, the
+ancient historian writes, "as if a god had come down among them." No
+sooner had Cartier landed and been thus welcomed than he gave thanks
+to Heaven, and the warriors sat in silence while he read aloud the
+Passion of Our Lord, though they understood not a word. The religious
+services over, he distributed presents, and the French trumpeters
+sounded a warlike melody, vastly pleasing the Indians. They conducted
+Cartier's party to the summit of the mountain and showed them an
+extensive view over unbroken forests for many miles to the dark
+Adirondacks far away and the distant lighter green mountains, which he
+called the "Monts Verts," to the eastward. There is a tablet placed in
+Metcalfe Street near Sherbrooke Street which marks the supposed site
+of the Indian village of Hochelaga. In 1608, when Champlain came,
+Hochelaga had disappeared. The fierce Hurons had destroyed the village
+and driven out the Iroquois, who had gone far south to the Mohawk
+Valley.
+
+For three-quarters of a century the French seem to have waited after
+Cartier's voyages, before they made any serious attempt at settlement.
+Then there came a great religious revival, and they planned to combine
+religion and conquest in a series of expeditions in the early
+seventeenth century under the auspices of patron saints and sinners
+whose names are numerously reproduced in the nomenclature of Quebec
+Province, in mountains, rivers, lakes, bays, capes, counties, towns
+and streets. It was chiefly due to Champlain, however, that the French
+foothold was obtained. This great explorer, known as the "Father of
+Canada," was noted alike for personal bravery and religious fervor.
+His occupations in the New World were perilous journeys, prayers and
+fighting. He firmly planted the French race in America, and every
+characteristic then given "New France," as Canada was called, remains
+to-day in the Province of Quebec. His noted saying is preserved in the
+Canadian chronicles, that "the salvation of one soul is of more
+importance than the founding of a new empire." His system was to take
+possession for the Church and the French king, and then erect a cross
+and a chapel, around which the colony grew. During the half-century
+succeeding Champlain's first voyage, many Recollet and Jesuit
+missionary priests came over, traversing the country and making
+converts among the Indians, so that there were established
+settlements, half-religious and half-military, forming alliances with
+the neighboring Huron and Algonquin Indians, and ultimately waging the
+almost perpetual wars with their English and Iroquois foes to the
+southward. Champlain, in 1608, founded Quebec, where Cartier had
+previously discovered the Indian village of Stadacona, meaning the
+"narrowing of the river." Champlain also, in subsequent voyages,
+discovered Lakes Champlain, Ontario and Nipissing.
+
+
+RELIGIOUS FOUNDATION OF MONTREAL.
+
+The original settlement of Montreal was probably the most completely
+religious enterprise of the many early French colonizing expeditions
+to Canada. Dauversière, a tax-gatherer of Anjou, was a religious
+devotee whose constant scourging with small chains and other
+torments, including a belt with more than twelve hundred sharp points,
+filled his father confessor with admiration. One day while at his
+devotions, an inward voice commanded him to found a new order of
+hospital nuns, and establish at the island called Mont Real in Canada
+a hospital or Hotel-Dieu for these nuns to conduct. But Mont Real
+being a wilderness where the hospital would be without patients, the
+island must be colonized to supply them, and the pious tax-gatherer
+was sorely perplexed. There was in Paris a young priest, Jean Jacques
+Olier, who was zealous and devout, and signalized his piety by much
+self-mortification, and one day while praying in church he thought he
+heard a voice from Heaven saying he was destined to be a light to the
+Gentiles, and that he was to form a society of priests and establish
+them on the island called Mont Real, in Canada, for the propagation of
+the true Faith. The old writers solemnly aver that both these men were
+totally ignorant of each other and of Canadian geography, yet they
+suddenly found themselves possessed, they knew not how, of the most
+exact details concerning the island, its size, shape, soil,
+productions, climate and situation; and they subsequently saw
+apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour encouraging them in the
+great work. Dauversière went to Paris seeking aid to carry out his
+task, and met Olier in a chateau in the suburbs; the two men, who
+never before had seen or heard of each other, became at once
+familiar, and under holy inspiration fondly embraced each other; the
+tax-gatherer received communion at the hands of the priest; and then
+for three hours they walked together in the park forming their plans.
+They determined, as the pious chronicler records it, to "plant the
+banner of Christ in an abode of desolation and a haunt of demons, and
+to this end a band of priests and women were to invade the wilderness
+and take post between the fangs of the Iroquois." They believed in the
+mystic number, three, and proposed to found three religious
+communities--one of secular priests to direct the colonists and
+convert the Indians, one of nuns to nurse the sick, and one of nuns to
+teach the Faith to all the children, white and red.
+
+But money and men and women were necessary for the work. Soon, four
+others were found who had wealth, and the six formed the germ of the
+"Society of Notre Dame de Montreal," and among them seventy-five
+thousand livres were raised, equal to about as many dollars. They
+purchased the island, and their grant was confirmed by the king, and
+then they got together a colony of forty men, and needing a
+soldier-governor, Providence provided such a man in Paul de Chomedey,
+Sieur de Maisonneuve, a devout and valiant gentleman who had kept his
+faith intact, notwithstanding long service among the heretics of
+Holland, and loving his profession of arms, wished to consecrate his
+sword to the Church. The interest of the women was awakened, and
+ultimately the Society was increased to about forty-five persons,
+chosen for their devotion and their wealth. Among the women who
+founded the new colony was Mademoiselle Jeanne Mance, who was about
+thirty-four years of age when the Society was organized, and to whom
+we are told that Christ had appeared in a vision at the early age of
+seven years, and at the same tender age her biographer says she had
+bound herself to God by a vow of perpetual chastity. Mlle. Mance, by
+the divine inspiration, was filled with a longing to go to Canada, and
+she went to the port of Rochelle seeking a vessel. She had never
+before heard of Dauversière, but by supernatural agencies she met him
+coming out of church, had a long conversation in which she learned his
+plan, declared she had found her destiny in "the ocean, the
+wilderness, the solitude, the Iroquois," and at once decided to go
+with Maisonneuve and his party.
+
+In February, 1641, with the Abbé Olier at their head, all the
+associates of the Society assembled in the Cathedral of Notre Dame, in
+Paris, before the altar of the Virgin, and by a most solemn ceremonial
+consecrated Mont Real to the Holy Family. It was henceforth to be a
+sacred town, called "Ville Marie de Montreal," and consecrated
+respectively, the Seminary of priests to Christ, the Hotel-Dieu to St.
+Joseph, and the Nuns' College to the Virgin. Subsequently to the
+colonization there appeared, in 1653, as the head of the latter, a
+maiden of Troyes, Marguerite Bourgeoys, a woman of most excellent good
+sense and a warm heart, who is described as having known neither
+miracles, ecstasies nor trances, her religion being of the affections
+and manifested in an absorbing devotion to duty. Late in the year the
+colony under Maisonneuve set sail, arriving too late, however, to
+ascend the St. Lawrence above Quebec, where they wintered. Here the
+Governor of Quebec, Montmagny, tried his best to dissuade them from
+going farther, desiring them to settle at Quebec, but Maisonneuve
+said, "It is my duty and my honor to found a colony at Montreal, and I
+would go if every tree were an Iroquois!" Here they gained an
+unexpected recruit in Madame de la Peltrie, foundress of the Order of
+Ursulines at Quebec, who abandoned their convent and carried off all
+the furniture she had lent them. In May, 1642, the party left Quebec
+in a flotilla of boats, deep laden with men, arms and stores, and a
+few days later approached Montreal island, when all on board raised a
+hymn of praise. Montmagny, who was to deliver possession of the
+island, was with them, and also Father Vimont, Superior of the
+missions, for the Jesuits had been invited to take spiritual charge of
+the young colony. On May 18, 1642, they landed at Montreal, at a spot
+where a little creek then flowed into the St. Lawrence, making a good
+landing-place, protected from the influence of the swift current of
+the river. There was a bordering meadow, and beyond rose the forest
+with its vanguard of scattered trees. The triangular graystone
+building, which is now the Custom House, down by the river, marks this
+spot where the city was founded. The historian Parkman, who has so
+faithfully delved into the ancient Canadian archives, thus relates the
+story of the original settlement:
+
+"Maisonneuve sprang ashore and fell on his knees. His followers
+imitated his example, and all joined their voices in enthusiastic
+songs of thanksgiving. Tents, baggage, arms and stores were landed. An
+altar was raised on a pleasant spot near at hand; and Mademoiselle
+Mance, with Madame de la Peltrie, aided by her servant Charlotte
+Barré, decorated it with a taste which was the admiration of the
+beholders. Now all the company gathered before the shrine. Here stood
+Vimont in the rich vestments of his office. Here were the two ladies
+with their servant; Montmagny, no very willing spectator; and
+Maisonneuve, a warlike figure, erect and tall, his men clustering
+around him,--soldiers, sailors, artisans and laborers,--all alike
+soldiers at need. They kneeled in reverent silence as the Host was
+raised aloft; and when the rite was over the priest turned and
+addressed them: 'You are a grain of mustard-seed, that shall rise and
+grow till its branches overshadow the earth. You are few, but your
+work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children shall
+fill the land.' The afternoon waned; the sun sank behind the western
+forest, and twilight came on. Fireflies were twinkling over the
+darkened meadow. They caught them, tied them with threads into shining
+festoons, and hung them before the altar where the Host remained
+exposed. Then they pitched their tents, lighted their bivouac fires,
+stationed their guards, and lay down to rest. Such was the birth-night
+of Montreal." Thus was piously planted the "grain of mustard-seed" of
+the devout and enthusiastic Vimont, which has expanded into a great
+city of probably three hundred thousand people, over half of them
+French and more than three-fourths Catholics, there being also a large
+Irish population.
+
+
+MONTREAL INSTITUTIONS.
+
+Montreal covers a surface five miles long by two miles wide, and its
+situation gives it great commercial importance. The people call it
+"the Queen of the St. Lawrence," standing at the head of ship
+navigation, where cargoes are exchanged with the internal canal and
+lake navigation system, the Grand Trunk Railway and the Canadian
+Pacific Railway crossing the continent, and both also having many
+connections with the United States. In 1809, the "Accommodation," the
+second steamboat in America, was built in Montreal, and began running
+to Quebec. The lion of Montreal is the Victoria Tubular Bridge, which
+was formally opened by the Prince of Wales on his American visit in
+1860. It was designed by Robert Stephenson and built by James Hodges
+at a cost of over $6,000,000. It is nearly ninety-two hundred feet
+long and stands upon twenty-six piers and abutments, the centre being
+about sixty feet above the summer level of the river, which flows
+beneath at the rate of seven miles an hour. Elaborate ice-fenders are
+on the up-stream side of the piers, there being an enormous
+ice-pressure when the spring freshets are running. It is the greatest
+bridge in the Dominion, and near it stands a huge boulder, marking the
+burial-place of the army of Irish emigrants who came over in 1847,
+sixty-five hundred dying at Montreal of ship-fever.
+
+The Sulpician Order has always been the great educator of priests in
+all French-speaking peoples, and it was founded by the Abbé Olier.
+Carrying out his intention, the "Seminary of St. Sulpice" was opened
+in Montreal in 1647. This is now an enormous and prosperous religious
+establishment, holding large possessions in and around the city. The
+"Gentlemen of the Seminary," as the members of the Order of Sulpicians
+are called in Montreal, are the successors of the first owners of the
+island, and they conduct a large secular business as landlords. Down
+in the heart of the old city, at the Place d'Armes, they have an
+antique quadrangle, surrounding a quiet garden, which is the official
+headquarters, and was the location of their ancient house. The curious
+French-looking towers fronting the Seminary were at one time
+loop-holed for musketry, and were garrisoned, when necessary, to beat
+off Indian raids upon the infant settlement. In the western suburbs
+there is a broad domain, known as the "Priests' Farm," where are an
+elaborate mass of buildings, making their present noted foundation,
+the "Great Seminary" and Montreal College, the former for the
+education of priests and the latter for the general education of
+youth, the delicious surrounding gardens being regarded as the finest
+on the fertile island.
+
+The "Hospital of the Hotel-Dieu de Ville Marie" is on the northeastern
+edge of the city, almost under the shadow of the mountain, and is one
+of the largest buildings in Canada, its dome rising one hundred and
+fifty feet over the spacious chapel. It was in this hospital, when
+first founded in a small way in 1647, that Mademoiselle Mance took up
+her abode. There are now over five hundred persons in the building,
+and it is conducted by eighty cloistered nuns, who never go outside
+the grounds. They are of the Order of St. Joseph, caring for the sick,
+the orphan, and the old and infirm. The "Sisters of the Congregation
+of Notre Dame," the "Black Nuns," as they are called, have their
+Mother House in Montreal, this being the teaching order founded by
+Marguerite Bourgeoys in 1653, she having then come out to Canada with
+Maisonneuve on his second voyage. "To this day," writes Parkman, "in
+crowded schoolrooms of Montreal and Quebec, fit monuments of her
+unobtrusive virtue, her successors instruct the children of the poor
+and embalm the pleasant memory of Marguerite Bourgeoys. In the martial
+figure of Maisonneuve, and the fair form of this gentle nun, we find
+the true heroes of Montreal." These "Black Nuns" conduct seventeen
+schools in the city, with over five thousand pupils. Their most
+extensive establishment is just out of town, on what are known as the
+"Monk Lands," and is called "Ville Marie." There are no less than six
+hundred nuns and novices in this order, and their pupils number twenty
+thousand in Canada and the United States.
+
+Another important Montreal institution is the "General Hospital of the
+Grey Sisters," popularly known as the "Grey Nunnery," occupying an
+extensive array of stone buildings in the southwestern part of the
+city. This order was first founded in 1692, but languished for nearly
+a half century, when a pious Canadian lady took it up. Originally it
+cared for the aged and infirm, but in 1755 this lady, Madame de
+Youville, discovered the body of a murdered infant, where is now
+Foundling Street, then a stream of water, into which the child had
+been thrown, and this led her to extend the objects of the institution
+so as to embrace orphans and foundlings. This is the great foundling
+hospital of Montreal. The order has the revenues of large estates, and
+there are about four hundred nuns and novices, over half being
+detailed in a large number of establishments throughout Canada.
+Several hundred foundlings are received every year, and over five
+hundred patients are cared for in Montreal, mostly the aged and
+infirm. The daughter of Ethan Allen, of Vermont, was a nun of this
+order, dying in 1819. This nunnery has many visitors, who attend
+worship with the Sisters in the beautiful chapel, and then go through
+the hospital, where the poor are cared for both in the morning and the
+evening of life. The crowds of little French children, dressed in the
+curious clothing of past centuries, sing for their visitors, and then
+comically scramble for the small coins tossed among them, which, after
+doing duty as playthings for a brief time, find their way into the
+charity box.
+
+Montreal is the headquarters in America of the well-known teaching
+order of the Christian Brothers. The Jesuits have St. Mary's College;
+and the Convent of the Sacred Heart and Hochelaga Convent, the Asylum
+of the Sisters of Providence and the Convent of the Good Shepherd are
+also prominent. The chief Protestant educational institution is McGill
+University, with a thousand students and seventy-five instructors,
+originally founded in 1821, through a bequest of $150,000, by James
+McGill, a native of Glasgow, who was one of the early successful
+merchants of Montreal. It has since been richly endowed, its
+properties being valued at over $1,000,000, and it has fine buildings
+and grounds near the mountain. Closely affiliated is the Presbyterian
+College of Montreal, devoted to the training of missionaries and
+clergymen, also provided with noble buildings. There is also a
+Wesleyan Theological College affiliated with McGill University. The
+peculiar religious conditions of Quebec Province have vested the
+educational management of the public schools in two Boards, one
+Protestant and the other Roman Catholic, separately governing each
+class of schools, and working in harmony under the Provincial
+Superintendent of Education, each Board having an office in Montreal.
+
+
+MONTREAL CHURCHES AND BUILDINGS.
+
+The Place d'Armes, down in the old part of the city, where is the
+original Seminary of St. Sulpice, is surrounded by famous structures.
+Here are the chief banks and insurance buildings and the head office
+of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The most noted of them is the
+Grecian-fronted Bank of Montreal, the largest financial institution in
+Canada, and believed, with the Canadian Pacific management, who are
+closely connected, to be the most potential force in the Dominion.
+Adjoining the old Seminary, and facing the square, is Montreal's most
+famous church--Notre Dame--its lofty front rising into the twin spires
+that overlook all the country round. Its pews seat ten thousand, and
+when crowded it accommodates fifteen thousand people. In one of the
+towers hangs "Le Gros Bourdon," the largest bell in America, called
+Jean Baptiste, and weighing nearly fifteen tons. The church is
+mediæval Gothic, built of cut limestone, the spires rising two hundred
+and twenty-seven feet, and containing ten bells, making a chime upon
+which, on great occasions, tunes are played. The interior, like all
+the French Catholic churches, is brilliantly decorated, for the
+religious development is the same as that of France in the seventeenth
+century, everything contributing to the intensity of the devotion and
+the elaborateness of decoration and paraphernalia of the service. At
+High Mass, when crowded by worshippers, the choir filled with robed
+ecclesiastics officiating in the stately ceremonial, the effect is
+imposing. The original church of Notre Dame was built in 1671, a long,
+low structure with a high pitched roof. It was pulled down in 1824 and
+replaced by the present church, which was five years building, and is
+one of the largest churches in America, two hundred and fifty-five
+feet long. We are told that the architect, James O'Donnell, who is
+buried in the crypt, was a Protestant, but during the work became so
+impressed by his religious surroundings that he was converted to a
+Roman Catholic. The church is never closed, and at any time one can
+enter, and with the silent worshippers kneel at the shrine in a solemn
+stillness, in sharp contrast with the activity of the business quarter
+without. This remarkable contrast deeply impressed the ascetic
+Thoreau, whose boast was that he never attended church. "I soon found
+my way to the Church of Notre Dame," he writes. "I saw that it was of
+great size and signified something. Coming from the hurrahing mob and
+the rattling carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church
+and found ourselves instantly in an atmosphere which might be sacred
+to thought and religion, if one had any. It was a great cave in the
+midst of a city, and what were the altars and the tinsel but the
+sparkling stalactites into which you entered in a moment, and where
+the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and
+profitable thought? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day,
+is worth a thousand of our churches which are open only Sundays." When
+General Montgomery's American army captured Montreal in 1775, the
+square in front of Notre Dame was his parade-ground, and thus it got
+the name of Place d'Armes.
+
+The greatest church of Montreal is the new Cathedral of St. James,
+popularly known as St. Peter's, as yet incomplete, designed to
+reproduce, on a scale of one-half the dimensions, the grand Basilica
+at Rome. It is three hundred and thirty-three feet long, the transepts
+two hundred and twenty-five feet wide, and the stone dome two hundred
+and fifty feet high, making it the largest church in Canada. Four huge
+stone piers, each thirty-six feet thick, and thirty-two Corinthian
+columns, support this grand dome. The outside walls, built of the
+universal gray limestone, are massive but rough, and the roof, on
+account of the heavy snows, is sloping, but otherwise it reproduces
+all the special features of St. Peter's at Rome, including the
+portico, to be surmounted by colossal statues of the Apostles. The
+interior is being decorated with brilliant paintings representing
+scenes in the life of St. James. It is located on Dominion Square, and
+the Bishop's Palace adjoins it. One of the remarkable churches, though
+small, is Notre Dame de Lourdes, built and adorned with the single
+idea of expressing in visible form the dogma of the Immaculate
+Conception, with the appearance of the Virgin to the maiden in the
+grotto at Lourdes. It is superbly decorated, and is the only church of
+the kind in America, being well described as "like an illuminated
+Missal, which to a Protestant has interest as a work of art, and to a
+Catholic has the superadded interest of a work of devotion." Adjoining
+the Jesuit St. Mary's College is their solid stone Church of the Gesu,
+its lofty nave bounded by rich columns, and with the long transepts
+adorned by fine frescoes, some giving representations of scenes in
+Jesuit history and martyrdom. The great Episcopal Cathedral of Christ
+Church, a Latin cross in Early English architecture, reproduces the
+Salisbury Cathedral of England, with a spire two hundred and
+twenty-four feet high. There are also many other fine Protestant
+churches; and when it is realized that Montreal has a church for about
+every two thousand inhabitants, the care for its religious welfare
+will be realized. The Royal Victoria Hospital, a gift to the city in
+honor of the Queen's Jubilee, cost $1,000,000.
+
+The largest public square in the city is the Champ de Mars, formerly a
+parade-ground, adjoining which are two noble public buildings, the
+handsome Court-house, three hundred feet long, and the adjacent Hotel
+de Ville, nearly five hundred feet long. The Victoria Skating Rink,
+the largest in the world, is the most noted amusement structure. The
+city is noted for athletic sports, and toboggan slides abound, some of
+enormous length, down the mountain slopes. The Montreal Bonsecours
+Market is famed everywhere, and presents an imposing Doric front
+nearly five hundred feet long upon the river bank, surmounted by a
+domed tower. Here gather in force the French Canadian peasantry, known
+as the _habitans_, to sell their produce and wares, and it gives a
+quaint exhibition of old-time French customs. The ancient Church of
+Notre Dame de Bonsecours is alongside, originally founded by
+Marguerite Bourgeoys in 1673 for the reception of a miraculous statue
+of the Virgin, entrusted to her by one of the associates of the
+Society founding Montreal, Baron de Faucamp. The church was burnt and
+then rebuilt in 1771, and is a quaint structure of a style rarely seen
+outside of Normandy, having shops built up against it after the
+fashion common in old European towns. Thus does this famous city
+combine the methods and styles of the Middle Ages with the manners and
+enterprises of to-day. It is an impressive fact that notwithstanding
+the prodigious religious development, all the denominations get on
+without friction. There is an underlying spirit of toleration, and it
+is recorded that after the British conquest of Canada the Protestants
+who came into Montreal occupied one of the Catholic churches for
+worship, assembling after the Catholic morning mass; and that for
+twenty years after 1766 the Church of England people occupied the
+Catholic church of the Recollets every Sunday afternoon. The
+Presbyterians are said to have also used the same church prior to
+1792, and then having removed into a church of their own, they
+presented the priests of the Recollet church a gift of candles for the
+high altar and of wine for the mass as a token of good will and their
+thanks for the gratuitous use of the church. Then the churches were
+few, but now all denominations have their own, and numerously.
+
+
+MONTREAL SURROUNDINGS.
+
+The suburbs are attractive, and gradually dissolve into the gardens
+and farms of the French husbandmen, living in comfortable houses with
+steep roofs, fronted by and sometimes almost embedded in foliage and
+flowers. Occasionally an ancient windmill is perched on a hill,
+stretching out its broad gyrating sails, as in old Normandy. There are
+frequent villages along the St. Lawrence, each clustered around its
+church. At Caughnawaga, already referred to, there is an extensive
+church with a tall and shining white tin-covered spire, and in a
+rather sorry-looking group of houses around it live the few who are
+left of the descendants of the once warlike and powerful Mohawks,
+known as the "praying Indians," here long ago gathered by the zealous
+missionary priests of St. Sulpice. At Lachine, spreading opposite on
+the western shore of the St. Lawrence for several miles, is a popular
+place of suburban residence, with rows of pleasant villas lining the
+banks of Lake St. Louis. Over beyond this lake comes in the main
+channel of Ottawa River, with the rapids of St. Anne flowing down from
+another inland sea made by its prolonged enlargement, the "Lake of the
+Two Mountains." A canal flanks these rapids, and the village of St.
+Anne has grown around its ancient church, which is deeply reverenced
+by the Canadian boatmen and voyageurs on these waters as their special
+shrine, for in the early days all the fur-trading with the great
+Canadian northwest was by canoes and bateaux on the Ottawa and Lake
+Nipissing, and thence by portage to Lake Huron. Here came many years
+ago, on a bateau down the St. Lawrence, the minstrel bard, Tom Moore,
+and inspired by the locality, he composed in a cottage, still pointed
+out, his noted "Canadian Boat Song":
+
+     "Faintly as tolls the evening chime,
+     Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time.
+     Soon as the woods on shore look dim,
+     We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn.
+         Row, brothers, row; the stream runs fast,
+         The rapids are near, and the daylight's past.
+
+     "Ottawa's tide! this trembling moon
+     Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon.
+     Saint of this green isle! hear our prayers:
+     O, grant us cool heavens, and favoring airs!
+         Blow, breezes, blow; the stream runs fast,
+         The rapids are near, and the daylight's past."
+
+On the northern shore of the "Lake of the Two Mountains," with Oka
+village nestling at the base, where an Indian colony live, are the two
+mountains from which the lake is named. One, surmounted by a cross, is
+Mount Calvary, having various religious shrines on its summit, and
+seven chapels on the road up, representing the seven stations of the
+cross. Here is also a monastery of the French "farmer Monks," the
+Trappists, who cultivate a large surface. They live a secluded life
+under ascetic rules, are not allowed to talk to each other, and only
+men enter the monastery, all women being stopped at the threshold.
+They rise at two o'clock in the morning, take breakfast soon
+afterwards in absolute silence, this being the only meal of the day,
+and retire to rest immediately after prayers at sunset. They devote
+twelve hours daily to devotions, and labor in the fields the remainder
+of the waking time. Their food is a scant allowance of water and
+vegetables. They sleep on a board with a straw pillow, and never
+undress, even in sickness. They are a branch of the Cistercians, and
+their abode overlooks the placid lake, with Montreal spreading beyond.
+But the city's finest suburban possession is its Mountain, the summit
+being a pleasant park, and the slopes covered with luxuriant foliage,
+which in the autumn becomes a blazing mass of resplendent beauty when
+the frosts turn the leaves. From the top the view is of unrivalled
+magnificence.
+
+
+THE GRAND RIVER.
+
+The Ottawa River is the most important tributary of the St. Lawrence,
+over seven hundred miles long, and draining a basin of one hundred
+thousand square miles, the most productive pine-timber region
+existing. It was the "Grand River" of the early French-Canadian
+voyageurs, and the name of Ottawa, changed considerably from the
+original form, comes from the Indian tribe and means "the traders." It
+has a circuitous course; rising in Western Quebec province, it flows
+northwest and then west for three hundred miles to Lake Temiscamingue,
+on the border of Ontario province; then it turns and flows back
+southeastward, making the boundary between the provinces for four
+hundred miles, until it falls into the St. Lawrence, the vast volume
+of its dark waters pressing the latter's blue current against the
+farther shore. It is a romantic river, filled with rapids and
+cascades, at times broadening into lakes, and again contracted into a
+torrent barely fifty yards wide, where the waters are precipitated
+over the rocks in wild splendor. For twenty-five miles above its mouth
+it broadens into the "Lake of the Two Mountains," from one to six
+miles wide. Above the city of Ottawa there are rapids terminating in
+the famous Chaudière Falls, where the waters plunge down forty feet,
+and part are said to disappear through an underground passage of
+unknown outlet. It has an enormous lumber trade, and by a canal
+system, avoiding the rapids, has been made navigable for two hundred
+and fifty miles. The Rideau River enters from the south at Ottawa,
+making the route by which the Rideau Canal goes over to Lake Ontario
+at Kingston. The Gatineau River also flows in at Ottawa, being of
+great volume, over four hundred miles long, and a prolific timber
+producer. In the villages around Montreal all the saints in the
+calendar are named, so that, starting on an exploration of Ottawa
+River, the route goes by St. Martin, St. Jean, St. Rose, St. Therese,
+St. Jerome, St. Lin, St. Eustache, St. Augustine, St. Scholastique,
+St. Hermes, St. Phillippe, and many more. But when the great religious
+city is left behind the saints cease to appear, and everything in the
+Ottawa valley above is generally otherwise named. This valley is
+usually a broad and level intervale, with only an occasional rocky
+buttress pressing upon the river. At one of these passes, in 1660, a
+handful of valiant men held the stockade at Carillon, the foot of Long
+Sault rapids, sacrificing their lives to save the early colony from
+the Indians, the place being known as the "French Canadian
+Thermopylæ." The full force of the Iroquois warriors were in arms up
+the Ottawa, over a thousand of them, threatening to drive the French
+out of Montreal. Dollard des Ormeaux and sixteen companions took the
+sacrament in the little Montreal church, made their wills, and bound
+themselves by an oath neither to give nor take quarter. A few
+Algonquins joined them, and going up the river they hastily built a
+stockaded fort at this pass. Soon the Iroquois canoes came dancing
+down the rapids, and discovering the fort, they surrounded and
+attacked it, but were repulsed day after day, until every one of the
+brave garrison had been killed, when the Iroquois had lost so many of
+their own warriors that they tired of the fighting, and avoiding
+Montreal, returned southward to their own country. Some fugitive
+Indians told the heroic story, which George Murray has woven into his
+ballad:
+
+     "Eight days of varied horror passed; what boots it now to tell
+     How the pale tenants of the fort heroically fell?
+     Hunger and thirst and sleeplessness, Death's ghastly aids, at
+       length,
+     Marred and defaced their comely forms, and quelled their giant
+       strength.
+     The end draws nigh--they yearn to die--one glorious rally more,
+     For the dear sake of Ville Marie and all will soon be o'er;
+     Sure of the martyr's golden Crown, they shrink not from the Cross,
+     Life yielded for the land they loved, they scorn to reckon loss."
+
+Some distance above, at the Chateau Montebello, lived in the early
+nineteenth century Louis Joseph Papineau, the "French-Canadian
+O'Connell," the seigneur of the district, who was the local leader in
+resistance to English aggressions, of whom the French are very proud,
+and his portrait hangs in the Parliament House at Ottawa. He was
+defeated, banished and then pardoned, and lived here to a ripe old age
+to see many of the reforms and privileges for which he had contended
+fully realized under subsequent administrations. The Riviere aux
+Lièvres rushes into the Ottawa down a turbulent cascade, through which
+logs dash until caught in the booms at the sawmills below, where are
+vast lumber piles. This river is two hundred and eighty miles long,
+and just above its mouth has a fall at Buckingham of seventy feet,
+giving an enormous water-power. The whole region hereabout is devoted
+to lumbering. The French _habitan_ from Lower Quebec comes up into
+this wilderness of woods with scarcely any capital but his axe, in the
+use of which he is expert. These Canadians do not like leaving their
+homes, but are compelled by sheer necessity. When the old Quebec farm
+has been subdivided among the children, under the French system, until
+the long, ribbon-like strips of land become so narrow between the
+fences that there is no opportunity for further sub-division, the
+young men must seek a livelihood elsewhere. The old man gives them a
+blessing, with a good axe and two or three dollars, and they start for
+the lumber camps. They catch abundant fish, can live on almost
+nothing, and need only buy their flour and salt, with some pork for a
+luxury. These lumbermen often wear picturesque costumes like the old
+voyageurs, and they like flaming red scarfs. They are as polite as the
+most courtly French gentleman, and pass their evenings in dancing,
+with music and singing the ancient songs of their forefathers,
+scorning anything modern. Many of them are Metis, or half-breeds, the
+descendants of French and Indians. These are more heavy featured and
+not so sprightly as the pure French, but they are equally skillful
+woodmen, and have inherited many good traits from both races, though
+they rather regard with pity their full-blooded Indian half-brothers,
+whose lot is scarcely as favorable. All these people are devout
+Catholics, and going up into the woods in the late autumn and
+remaining until after Easter, the priests always visit their camps to
+attend to their spiritual wants. An impressive scene in these vast
+forests in the dawn of a cold winter morning is to see the priest
+standing with outstretched arms at the rude altar, the light of the
+candles revealing the earnest faces of his flock as they reverentially
+attend the mass. These woodmen are firm believers in the
+supernatural, convinced that the spirits of the dead come back in
+various shapes. If a single crow is seen they are sure a calamity has
+occurred; if two crows fly before them it means a wedding. An owl
+hooting indicates impending danger. They are always hearing strange
+voices at night, or seeing ominous shapes in the twilight wood
+shadows. The Metis are good hunters, and great is their joy when a
+belated bear is found near the camp, or a deer or moose is tracked in
+the snow. Their lumbering is done near the streams, so the logs may be
+thrown in and floated down by the spring freshets. They make a vast
+product of timber, sold throughout the lakes and St. Lawrence region,
+much going across the Atlantic.
+
+
+THE DOMINION CAPITAL.
+
+The earliest settler at the portage around the Chaudière Falls of the
+Ottawa was Philemon Wright, of Woburn, Massachusetts, who came along
+in 1800, and not getting on successfully, sold out about twenty years
+later to cancel a debt of $200. Subsequently there was established at
+the confluence of the three rivers, Ottawa, Rideau and Gatineau, by
+Colonel By, a British military post and Indian trading-station, around
+which in time a settlement grew which was called Bytown, distant about
+a hundred miles from the St. Lawrence River. It was incorporated a
+city in 1854 by the name of Ottawa; and when the Dominion
+Confederation was formed in 1858 there was so much contention about
+the claims of rival cities to be the capital--Montreal, Toronto,
+Kingston and Quebec all being urged--that Queen Victoria, to finally
+settle the matter, selected Ottawa. There is a population of about
+sixty thousand, but excepting from the noble location of the
+magnificent public buildings, the political importance of the city
+does not attract the visitor so much as the business development. The
+lumber trade makes the first and greatest impression; landing among
+boards and sawdust, walking amid timber piles and over wooden
+sidewalks, with slabs, blocks and planks everywhere in endless
+profusion, the rushing waters filled with floating logs and sawdust,
+busy saws running, planing-machines screeching, the canals carrying
+lumber cargoes, the rivers lined with acres of board piles--an idea is
+got of what the lumber trade of the Ottawa valley is. The timber is
+almost all white and yellow pine. Alongside the Chaudière Falls at the
+western verge of the town are clustered the great sawmills, while
+capacious slides shoot the logs down, which are to be floated farther
+along to the St. Lawrence. There are also large flour-mills and other
+factories getting power from this cataract.
+
+  [Illustration: _Chaudière Falls, St. Lawrence_]
+
+The Chaudière, or the "Cauldron," is a remarkable cataract, and the
+Indians were so terrified by it, that to propitiate its evil genius we
+are told they usually threw in a little tobacco before traversing
+the portage around it. The rapids begin about six miles above,
+terminating in this great boiling cauldron with a sheer descent of
+forty feet, which is as curious as it is grand. Owing to the peculiar
+formation of the enclosing rocks, all the waters of the broad river
+are converged into a sort of basin about two hundred feet wide,
+plunging in with vast commotion and showers of spray. Efforts have
+been made to sound this strange cauldron, but the lead has not found
+bottom at three hundred feet depth. The narrowness of the passage
+between the enclosing rocky walls, just below the falls, has enabled a
+bridge to be built across, connecting Ottawa with the suburb of Hull.
+Here is given an admirable view of the foaming, descending waters,
+clouds of spray, and at times gorgeous rainbows, flanked by timber
+piles and sawmills, sending out rushing streams of water and sawdust
+into the river below. Near by a chain of eight massive locks brings
+the Rideau Canal down through a fissure in the high bank to the level
+of the lower Ottawa, its sides being almost perpendicularly cut by the
+action of water in past ages. The locks are a Government work, of
+solid masonry, well built, and the fissure divides Ottawa into the
+Upper and the Lower Town, pretty bridges being thrown across it on the
+lines of the principal streets. The Rideau Canal follows the Rideau
+River upwards southwest to the Lake Ontario level, and in the whole
+distance of one hundred and twenty-six miles to Kingston, overcomes
+four hundred and forty-six feet by forty-seven locks. Much of the
+suburb of Hull and a considerable part of Ottawa, with enormous
+amounts of lumber, were destroyed by a great fire in April, 1900, a
+high wind fanning the flames that were spread by the inflammable
+materials.
+
+Upon Barrack Hill, at an elevation of one hundred and fifty feet,
+surrounded by ornamental grounds, and having the Ottawa River flowing
+at the western base, stand the Government buildings. They are
+magnificent structures, costing nearly $4,000,000, the Prince of Wales
+having laid the corner-stone on his visit in 1860. They are built of
+cream-colored sandstone, with red sandstone and Ohio stone trimmings,
+the architecture being Italian Gothic, and they stand upon three sides
+of a grass-covered quadrangle, and occupy an area of four acres. They
+include the Parliament House, the chief building, and all the Dominion
+Government offices. The former is four hundred and seventy-two feet
+long, the other buildings on the east and west sides of the quadrangle
+being somewhat smaller. All are impressive, their great elevation
+enabling their towers and spires to be seen for many miles. The
+legislative chambers are richly furnished, and Queen Victoria's
+portrait is on the walls of one House, and those of King George III.
+and Queen Charlotte upon the other. The Parliamentary Library, a
+handsome polygonal structure of sixteen angles, adjoins. The
+Governor-General resides in Rideau Hall, across the Rideau River.
+From a little pavilion out upon the western edge of Barrack Hill, high
+above the Ottawa, there is a long view over the western and northern
+country, whence that river comes. To the left is the rolling land of
+Ontario province, and to the right the distant hills and looming blue
+mountains of Quebec, the river dividing them. Behind the pavilion is
+the stately Parliament House, its noble Victoria Tower, seen from
+afar, rising two hundred and twenty feet.
+
+
+MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.
+
+The broad St. Lawrence River flows one hundred and eighty miles from
+Montreal to Quebec. A succession of parishes is passed, each with its
+lofty church and presbytère, reproducing the picturesque buildings of
+old Normandy and Brittany, with narrow windows and steep roofs, all
+covered with shining white tin which the dry air preserves. Little
+villages cluster around the churches, with long stretches of arable
+lands between. Among a mass of wooded islands on the northern bank,
+the turbid waters of the lower Ottawa outlet flow in, the edge of the
+clearer blue of the St. Lawrence being seen for some distance below.
+The delta makes green alluvial islands and shoals. Thus we sail down
+the great river, past shores that were long ago very well settled.
+
+     "Past little villages we go,
+     With quaint old gable ends that glow
+       Bright in the sunset's fire;
+     And, gliding through the shadows still,
+     Oft notice, with a lover's thrill,
+       The peeping of a spire."
+
+In the eighteenth century, Kalm, a Swedish tourist in America, said it
+could be really called a village, beginning at Montreal and ending at
+Quebec, "for the farmhouses are never more than five arpents apart,
+and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted;" and two
+centuries ago a traveller on the river wrote that the houses "were
+never more than a gunshot apart." All the people are French, retaining
+the language and old customs, simple-minded and primitive, the same as
+under the ancient French régime, and excepting that one village,
+Varennes, has put two towers upon its stately church, all of them are
+exactly alike. It is recorded that in Champlain's time some Huguenot
+sailors came up the river piously singing psalm tunes. This did not
+please the officials, and soon a boat with soldiers put off from one
+of these villages, and the officer in charge told them that
+"Monseigneur, the Viceroy, did not wish that they should sing psalms
+on the great river." The first steamer that came along the St.
+Lawrence created unlimited dread, horrifying the villagers. Solemnly
+crossing himself, an old voyageur, who probably thought his trade on
+the waters endangered, exclaimed, in his astonishment, "But can you
+believe that the good God will permit all that?"
+
+The Richelieu River, the outlet of Lake Champlain, comes in at Sorel,
+the chief affluent on the southern bank, its canal system making a
+navigable connection with the Hudson River. Cardinal Richelieu took
+great interest in early Canadian colonization, and Fort Richelieu was
+built at the mouth of this river, being afterwards enlarged to prevent
+Iroquois forays, by Captain Sorel, whose name is preserved in the
+town. Below, there is an archipelago of low alluvial islands, and the
+St. Lawrence broadens out into Lake St. Peter, nine or ten miles wide,
+and generally shallow, this being the head of the tidal influence. On
+its southern side flows in the St. Francis River, the outlet of Lake
+Memphremagog and of many streams and lakes in the vast wilderness
+along the boundary north of Vermont and east of Lake Champlain. At its
+mouth is the little village of St. François du Lac. As the shores
+contract below Lake St. Peter, the town of Three Rivers is passed
+midway between Montreal and Quebec. Here the fine river St. Maurice,
+another great lumber-producing stream, flows in upon the northern
+bank, two little islands dividing its mouth into a delta of three
+channels, thus naming the town. The St. Maurice is full of rapids and
+cataracts, the chief being Shawanagan Fall, about twenty miles inland,
+noted for its grandeur and remarkable character. The river, suddenly
+bending and divided into two streams by a pile of rocks, falls nearly
+one hundred and fifty feet and dashes against an opposing wall, where
+the reunited stream forces its way through a narrow passage scarcely a
+hundred feet wide. The two lofty rocks bounding this abyss are called
+La Grande Mere and Le Bon Homme. The headwaters of St. Maurice
+interlock with some of those of the gloomy Saguenay north of Quebec.
+An enormous output of lumber comes down to Three Rivers, and the
+district also produces much bog iron ore. Here are extensive sawmills,
+iron-works, and one of the largest paper-pulp establishments in
+America, the unrivalled water-power being thus utilized. Below the St.
+Maurice, as the outcropping foothills from the Laurentian Mountains
+approach the river, the scenery becomes more picturesque. The
+Richelieu rapids are here, requiring careful navigation among the
+rocks, and Jacques Cartier River comes in from the north. In front of
+St. Augustin village, years ago, the steamer "Montreal" was burnt with
+a loss of two hundred lives, and on the outskirts is an ancient ruined
+church, which is said to have fallen in decay because the devil
+assisted at its building. This was in 1720, and the tradition is that
+His Satanic Majesty appeared in the form of a powerful black stallion,
+who hauled the blocks of stone, until his driver, halting at a
+watering-trough, where there was also a small receptacle of holy water
+for the faithful, unbridled the horse, who became suddenly restive and
+vanished in a cloud of sulphurous smoke. Many pious pilgrimages are
+made to the present fine church of the village, having a statue of
+the guardian angel standing out in front, commemorating the Vatican
+Council of 1870. As Quebec is approached, the "coves" are seen on the
+northern shore, arranged with booms for the timber ships, for easier
+transfer of lumber from the rafts floated down the river, and the
+steep bluffs behind run off into Cape Diamond, projecting far across
+the stream. Old Sillery Church stands up with its tall spire atop of
+the bold bluff, with a monastery behind it. Here Noel Brulart de
+Sillery, Knight of Malta, in 1637, established one of the early Jesuit
+missions. Point Levis stretches from the southern bank to narrow the
+river channel. The low gray walls of the citadel surmount the highest
+point of the extremity of Cape Diamond, and rounding it, we are at
+Quebec.
+
+
+ORIGIN OF QUEBEC.
+
+Whence comes the name of Quebec? "Quel bec! Quel bec!"--(What a
+beak!)--shouted Jacques Cartier's astonished sailors, when, sailing up
+the St. Lawrence, they first beheld the startling promontory of Cape
+Diamond, thrust in towering majesty almost across the river. Thus,
+says one tradition, by a natural elision, was named Quebec, when the
+Europeans first saw the rock in 1535. Another derivation comes from
+Candebec on the Seine, which it much resembles. The Indian word
+"Kebic," meaning "the fearful rocky cliff," may have been its origin.
+The Indian village of Stadacona was here when Cartier found it, a
+cluster of wigwams fringing the shore in front of the bold cliff, its
+people bearing allegiance to the Montaignais chief, Donnacona. Here
+the ancient chronicle records that Cartier saw a "mighty promontory,
+rugged and bare, thrust its scarped front into the raging current,"
+and he planted the cross and lilies of France and took possession for
+his king. Returning to Europe, he took back as prisoners the chief,
+Donnacona, and several of his warriors, their arrival making a great
+sensation. They were fêted and prayed for, and becoming converted,
+were baptised with pomp in the presence of a vast assemblage in the
+magnificent Cathedral of Rouen. But the round of pleasure and
+feasting, with the excess of excitement, overcame these children of
+the forest, and they all died within a year. Colonization on the St.
+Lawrence, after Cartier's voyages, languished for seventy years,
+various ill-starred expeditions failing, and it was not until 1608
+that the city of Quebec was really founded by Samuel de Champlain, who
+was sent out by a company of associated noblemen of France to
+establish a fur trade with the Indians and open a new field for the
+Church, the Roman Catholic religion being then in the full tide of
+enthusiasm which in the seventeenth century made what was known as the
+"counter reformation." Champlain built a fort and established the
+province of New France, but his colony was of slow growth. There
+subsequently came out the military and commercial adventurers and
+religious enthusiasts, who were the first settlers of the new empire.
+The Recollet Fathers came in 1615, and the Jesuit missionary priests
+in 1625 and subsequently. The famous Canadian bishop, Laval de
+Montmorency, Father Hennepin, and the Sieur de la Salle, all came out
+in the same ship at a later period. Thus was founded the great French
+Catholic power in North America.
+
+The Church thoroughly ruled the infant colony of Quebec. In the fort,
+black-garbed Jesuits and scarfed officers mingled at Champlain's
+table. Parkman says, "There was little conversation, but in its place,
+histories and the lives of saints were read aloud, as in a monastic
+refectory; prayers, masses and confessions followed each other with an
+edifying regularity, and the bell of the adjacent chapel, built by
+Champlain, rang morning, noon, and night; godless soldiers caught the
+infection, and whipped themselves in penance for their sins; debauched
+artisans outdid each other in the fury of their contrition; Quebec was
+become a mission." Champlain died at Christmas, 1635, after a long
+illness, at the age of sixty-eight, the "Father of Canada," and Quebec
+was without a Governor for a half-year. Finally, the next summer, the
+Father Superior, Le Jeune, who had been directing affairs, espied a
+ship, and going down to the landing, was met by the new Governor, de
+Montmagny, a Knight of Malta, with a long train of officers and
+gentlemen. We are told that "as they all climbed the rock together,
+Montmagny saw a crucifix planted by the path. He instantly fell on his
+knees before it; and nobles, soldiers, sailors and priests imitated
+his example. The Jesuits sang Te Deum at the church, and the cannon
+roared from the adjacent fort. Here the new Governor was scarcely
+installed, when a Jesuit came in to ask if he would be godfather to an
+Indian about to be baptized. 'Most gladly,' replied the pious
+Montmagny. He repaired on the instant to the convert's hut, with a
+company of gaily-apparelled gentlemen; and while the inmates stared in
+amazement at the scarlet and embroidery, he bestowed on the dying
+savage the name of Joseph, in honor of the spouse of the Virgin and
+the patron of New France. Three days after, he was told that a dead
+proselyte was to be buried, on which, leaving the lines of the new
+fortification he was tracing, he took in hand a torch, De Lisle, his
+lieutenant, took another, Repentigny and St. Jean, gentlemen of his
+suite, with a band of soldiers, followed, two priests bore the corpse,
+and thus all moved together in procession to the place of burial. The
+Jesuits were comforted. Champlain himself had not displayed a zeal so
+edifying." The spiritual power thus so zealously exerted thoroughly
+controlled Quebec, and its masterful force always continued.
+
+
+THE FRENCH-CANADIAN MISSIONARIES.
+
+Boundless was the power exerted when the religious envoys of this
+wonderful colony spread over the interior of America. When the heroic
+bishop Laval de Montmorency stood on the altar-steps of his Basilica
+at Quebec, he could wave his crozier over half a continent, from the
+island of St. Pierre Miquelon to the source of the Mississippi, and
+from the St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico. The Jesuits' College at
+Quebec was started in a small way as early as 1637, and from it, year
+after year, issued forth the dauntless missionaries, carrying the
+gospel out among the Indians for over three thousand miles into the
+interior, preaching the faith beyond the Mississippi, and down its
+valley, throughout Louisiana, many suffering death and martyrdom in
+its most cruel forms. Nowhere in the church annals exists a grander
+chapter than the record of these missionaries. Unarmed and alone, they
+travelled the unexplored continent, bravely meeting every horrible
+torture and lingering death inflicted by the vindictive savages, whom
+they went out to bless. The world was amazed at their sufferings and
+achievements. Even Puritan New England, we are told, received their
+envoy with honors, the apostle Eliot entertaining him at Roxbury
+parsonage, while Boston, Salem and Plymouth became his gracious hosts.
+These devoted men loved the new country. "To the Jesuits," we are
+told in their annals, "the atmosphere of Quebec was well-nigh
+celestial. In the climate of New France one learns perfectly to seek
+only one God; to have no desire but God; no purpose but for God. To
+live in New France is in truth to live in the bosom of God. If anyone
+of those who die in this country goes to perdition," writes Le Jeune,
+"I think he will be doubly guilty." For years old France sent over a
+multitude to reinforce these missions. They were urged on by rank,
+wealth and power in the great work of converting the heathen, and the
+noblest motives gave these missions life. Solitude, toil, privation,
+hardship and death were the early French missionary's portion, yet
+nothing made his zeal or courage flag. The saints and angels of their
+faith hovered around these Jesuit martyrs with crowns of glory and
+garlands of immortal bliss. It was no wonder that the French and
+Jesuit influence soon extended far beyond the mere circle of converts.
+It modified and softened the rude manners of many unconverted tribes.
+Parkman, from whom I have already quoted, records that "in the wars of
+the next century we do not often find those examples of diabolic
+atrocity with which the earlier annals are crowded. The savage burned
+his enemies alive, it is true, but he seldom ate them; neither did he
+torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. He was a
+savage still, but not so often a devil."
+
+The French missionary priests survived the period of torture and
+trial, and became, in fact, the revered rulers of many of the Indian
+tribes. They thoroughly assimilated and learned the languages. The
+priest, regarded with awe and affection, knew so much, and was so
+skillful as counsellor and physician, that the untutored savage came
+to look upon him almost as a supernatural being. The biographer of the
+venerable Father Davion, who governed the Yazoos in Louisiana, tells
+how the Indians regarded him as more than human. "Had they not, they
+said, frequently seen him at night, with his dark solemn gown, not
+walking, but gliding through the woods like something spiritual? How
+could one so weak in frame, and using so little food, stand so many
+fatigues? How was it that whenever one of them fell sick, however
+distant it might be, Father Davion knew it instantly and was sure to
+be there before sought for? Did any of his prophecies ever prove
+false? What was it he was in the habit of muttering so long, when
+counting the beads of that mysterious chain that hung round his neck?
+Was he not then telling the Great Spirit every wrong they had done? So
+they both loved and feared Father Davion. One day they found him dead
+at the foot of the altar; he was leaning against it with his head cast
+back, with his hands clasped, and still retaining his kneeling
+position. There was an expression of rapture in his face, as if to his
+sight the gates of Paradise had suddenly unfolded themselves to give
+him admittance; it was evident that his soul had exhaled into a
+prayer, the last on this earth, but terminating no doubt in a hymn of
+rejoicing above." But great as may be the spectacle of triumphant
+martyrdom, there are yet men unwilling to change places with the
+missionary priest. Ralph Waldo Emerson writes in _The Problem_:
+
+     "I like a church; I like a cowl;
+     I love a prophet of the soul;
+     And on my heart monastic aisles
+     Fall like sweet strains, or pensive smiles:
+     Yet not for all his faith can see
+     Would I that cowléd churchman be."
+
+But others also came to New France besides priests and martyrs; the
+adventurers and beggared noblemen--poor, uneducated, yet bold and
+courageous. The historian tells us of "the beggared noble of the early
+time" who came over, "never forgetting his quality of _gentilhomme_;
+scrupulously wearing its badge the sword, and copying, as well as he
+could, the fashions of the court which glowed on his vision across the
+sea with all the effulgence of Versailles and beamed with reflected
+ray from the Chateau of Quebec. He was at home among his tenants, at
+home among the Indians, and never more at home than when, a gun in his
+hand and a crucifix on his breast, he took the warpath with a crew of
+painted savages and Frenchmen almost as wild, and pounced like a lynx
+from the forest on some lonely farm or outlying hamlet of New
+England. How New England hated him, let her records tell. The reddest
+blood-streaks on her old annals mark the track of the Canadian
+_gentilhomme_."
+
+
+QUAINT OLD QUEBEC.
+
+Thus created a thoroughly French region, Lower Canada still maintains
+the religious character of the original colony. The geographical names
+are mostly those of the saints and fathers of the Church, and much of
+the land is owned by religious bodies. The population is four-fifths
+French, and nowhere does the Church to-day show more vitality or
+command more thorough devotion. The city of Quebec almost stands still
+in population, having about seventy thousand, of whom five-sixths are
+French. It is now just as Champlain made it, though larger, a
+fortress, trading-station and church combined, and quaintly attractive
+in all three phases. No finer location could have been selected for a
+town and seaport, and no more impregnable position found to guard the
+St. Lawrence passage than its junction with the river St. Charles. An
+elevated tongue of land stretches along the northwestern bank of the
+St. Lawrence for several miles, and from behind it comes out the St.
+Charles. Below their junction the broad Isle of Orleans blocks the
+way, dividing the St. Lawrence into two channels, while above, the
+noble river contracts to the "Narrows," less than a mile in width,
+making a strait guarded all along by bold shores. At the northern
+extremity of this tongue of land, and opposite the "Narrows" of the
+river, rises the lofty cliff of Cape Diamond, three hundred and fifty
+feet above the water, the citadel crowning the hill and overlooking
+the town nestling at its foot. The fortifications spread all around
+the cliff and its approaches, completely guarding the rivers and the
+means of access by land; but it is now all peaceful, being only a
+show-place for sight-seers. As may be imagined, this grand fortress is
+magnificent to look at from the water approach, while the outlook from
+the ramparts and terraces on top of the cliff is one of the finest
+sights over town and rivers, hills and woods, in the world.
+
+Quebec is quaint, ancient and picturesque, presenting strange
+contrasts. A fortress and commercial mart have been built together on
+the summit of a rock, like an eagle's nest. It is a French city in
+America, ruled by the English, and was held mainly by Scotch and Irish
+troops; a town with the institutions of the middle ages under modern
+constitutional government, having torrid summers and polar winters,
+and a range of the thermometer from thirty degrees below zero to one
+hundred degrees above. When Charles Dilke came here he thought he was
+back in the European Middle Ages. He found "gates and posterns, cranky
+steps that lead up to lofty gabled houses with steep French roofs of
+burnished tin like those of Liége; processions of the Host; altars
+decked with flowers; statues of the Virgin; sabots and blouses; and
+the scarlet of the British linesmen. All these are seen in narrow
+streets and markets that are graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and
+all within forty miles of the Down East Yankee State of Maine. It is
+not far from New England to Old France. There has been no dying out of
+the race among the French Canadians. The American soil has left their
+physical type, religion, language and laws absolutely untouched. They
+herd together in their rambling villages; dance to the fiddle after
+mass on Sundays as gaily as once did their Norman sires; and keep up
+the _fleur de lys_ and the memory of Montcalm. More French than the
+French are the Lower Canada _habitans_. The pulse-beat of the
+Continent finds no echo here." Henry Ward Beecher thought Quebec the
+most curious city he had ever seen, saying, "It is a peak thickly
+populated, a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and at the same time
+smoothed off to hold firmly on its summit the houses and castles,
+although, according to the ordinary laws of nature, they ought to fall
+off, like a burden placed on a camel's back without a fastening. Yet
+the houses and castles hold there as if they were nailed down. At the
+foot of the rock some feet of land have been reclaimed from the river,
+and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Quebec is a dried shred
+of the Middle Ages hung high up near the North Pole, far from the
+beaten paths of the European tourists--a curiosity without parallel
+on this side of the ocean. The locality ought to be scrupulously
+preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried elsewhere. When
+Quebec has taken the pains to go and perch herself away up near
+Hudson's Bay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her
+with new ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and
+tortuous streets that charm all travellers in order to seek conformity
+with the fantastic ideas of comfort in vogue in the nineteenth
+century."
+
+
+THE FORTRESS OF QUEBEC.
+
+Up on the cliff, in 1620, Champlain built the ancient castle of St.
+Louis, which stood on the verge of the rock, where now is the eastern
+end of the Dufferin Terrace, at an elevation of about one hundred and
+eighty feet above the river. This was of timber, afterwards replaced
+by a stone structure used for fort and prison, and burnt in the early
+part of the nineteenth century, the site being now an open square,
+with some relics, on the verge of the cliff. The great Quebec Citadel
+upon the summit of the promontory, three hundred and fifty feet above
+the river, is one of the most formidable of the former systems of
+stone fortifications. It covers forty acres, and has outlying walls,
+batteries and defensive works enclosing the entire ancient city, the
+circuit being nearly three miles. There are batteries guarding the
+water approach, gates on the landward side (some now dismantled), and
+four massive martello towers on the edge of the Plains of Abraham
+above the city, with long subterranean passages leading to them and
+other outlying works. The Quebec rock is a dark slate, with an almost
+perpendicular stratification, and shining quartz crystals found in it
+gave it the name of Cape Diamond. The portion of the works overlooking
+the St. Lawrence is called the Grand Battery, while the surmounting
+pinnacle of the Citadel, containing a huge Armstrong gun, is the
+King's Bastion. While Quebec's magnificent scenery and its tremendous
+rock-crowned fortress remain as they were during the great colonial
+wars, yet the military glory is gone. England long ago withdrew the
+regular garrison, and only a handful of Canadian militia now hold the
+place, and the guns are harmless from age and rust, only two or three
+smaller ones doing the present ceremonious duties. In fact the old
+rock is so given to sliding, that salutes are forbidden, excepting on
+rare occasions, lest the concussion may bring some of the fatal
+rock-slides down upon the people of the Lower Town. There is a little
+bronze gun preserved as a trophy in the centre of the Parade, which
+the British captured at Bunker Hill. Grand as this Citadel is, it no
+longer protects Quebec, for in fact the defense against an enemy is
+provided by the newer modern forts across the river behind Point
+Levis, which command the river approach and cost some $15,000,000 to
+construct.
+
+Yet great has been the conflict around this noted rock fortress in the
+past. The earliest battles were at the old Castle of St. Louis, and
+after the repulse of the New England colonial expeditions sent against
+Quebec in 1711 it was determined to fortify the whole of Cape Diamond,
+and then the Citadel and chief works were built. Two monuments,
+however, record the greatest events in its history. The Wolfe-Montcalm
+monument is the chief, erected just behind the Dufferin Terrace, in a
+little green enclosure known as the "Governor's Garden," recording the
+result of the greatest battle fought in Colonial America, the fateful
+contest in 1759, on the Plains of Abraham, where both commanders fell,
+which changed the sovereignty of Canada from France to England, and
+the crowning victory of the "Seven Years' War," which Parkman says
+"began the history of the United States." This is a plain shaft,
+almost without ornamentation, and bears the names of both Generals.
+The other monument is the little stone set up in the face of the cliff
+on the river-front below the citadel, marking where the American
+General Montgomery fell, in the winter of 1775. He had crossed the St.
+Lawrence on the ice, and in imitation of Wolfe's previous exploit,
+rashly tried to scale the almost perpendicular cliff with a handful of
+troops, but was defeated and slain. Wolfe's successful ascent of the
+bluff in 1759 had been made from the river three miles above Quebec,
+at what is now known as Wolfe's Cove, where the timber ships load. A
+little stream makes a ravine in the bank, and Wolfe and his intrepid
+followers, having floated down from above with the tide, landed and
+climbed through this gorge, the route they took being at present a
+steep road ascending the face of the bluff among the trees, a small
+flag-staff being planted at the top. The Plains of Abraham--so called
+from Abraham Martin, a pilot living there--are now occupied by the
+modern residences of the city and the massive buildings of the Quebec
+Provincial Parliament. There is also a prison, and near it a monument
+marking where Wolfe fell, being the second column erected, the first
+having been carried away piecemeal by relic-hunters. Upon it is the
+inscription: "Here died Wolfe victorious, Sept. 13, 1759." This marks
+the most famous event in the history of the great fortress. Wolfe had
+evidently a premonition. A young midshipman who was in the boat with
+him, as they floated on the river at midnight to the ravine, told
+afterwards how Wolfe, in a low voice, repeated Gray's _Elegy in a
+Country Churchyard_ to the officers about him, including the line his
+own fate was soon to illustrate, "The paths of glory lead but to the
+grave," saying, as the recital ended, "Gentlemen, I would rather have
+written those lines than take Quebec." William Pitt, describing the
+great result of the battle, said, "The horror of the night, the
+precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he, with a handful of men,
+added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly
+terminating life where his fame began--ancient story may be ransacked
+and ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode
+can be found to rank with Wolfe's."
+
+
+QUEBEC RELIGIOUS HOUSES.
+
+Various streets and stairways mount the great Quebec rock in zigzags,
+and there is also an inclined-plane passenger elevator. In the Lower
+Town, the narrow streets display quaint old French houses with
+queer-looking porches and oddly-built steps, high steep roofs, tall
+dormer windows and capacious stone chimneys. The French population
+cluster in the Lower Town and along St. Charles River. Churches and
+religious houses seem distributed everywhere. The great Catholic
+establishments are prominent in the Upper Town, nearly all founded in
+the seventeenth century. The Holy Father at Rome, recognizing the
+exalted position Quebec occupies in the Church, has made its
+Cathedral, like the patriarchal churches of Rome, a Basilica, its
+Archbishop being a Cardinal. It occupies the place of the first church
+built by Champlain, is not very large, but is magnificently decorated
+and contains fine paintings. Within are buried Champlain and
+Frontenac, and the great Bishop Laval de Montmorency. Adjoining is the
+palace of the Cardinal Archbishop, who is the Canadian Primate. Also
+adjoining are the spacious buildings of the Seminary, founded and
+richly endowed by Laval,--one of the wealthiest institutions and most
+extensive landowners of Quebec Province. This is still regarded as the
+controlling power of the Church in Lower Canada, as it has been for
+two centuries. There is also a Cathedral of the Church of England, a
+smaller and plain building, where the war-worn battle-flags of the
+British troops, carried in the Crimea, hang in the chancel, and the
+fine communion service was presented by King George III. Here is also
+the memorial of the early Anglican bishop of Quebec, Jacob Mountain,
+of whom it was said he happened to be in the presence of that king
+when the king expressed doubt as to who should be appointed bishop of
+the new See of Quebec, then just created. Said Dr. Mountain, "If your
+Majesty had faith there would be no difficulty." "How so?" asked the
+king; whereupon Mountain answered, "If you had faith you would say to
+this Mountain, be thou removed into that See, and it would be done."
+It was; Quebec getting a most excellent bishop, who labored over
+thirty years there, dying in 1825. There are also the splendid
+building of Laval University, one of the first educational
+institutions of the Dominion; the Hotel Dieu, and Ursuline Convent
+originally started by Madame de la Peltrie, in the Upper Town.
+
+These establishments all had their origin in the religious enthusiasm
+attending the settlement of Canada, in which France took great pride,
+although Voltaire afterwards derided it as "Fifteen hundred leagues of
+frozen country." From Sillery, where the first Jesuit Mission was
+founded, went out the zealous missionaries and martyrs, who followed
+the Hurons into the depths of the forest, and sought to reclaim the
+Iroquois, as has been well said, "with toil too great to buy the
+kingdoms of this world, but very small as a price for the Kingdom of
+Heaven." From Sillery went the Jesuit Fathers, who explored all
+America, and also Jogues, Brébeuf, Lalemont, and others, to martyrdom
+in founding the primitive Canadian mission church. It was also the
+religious French women as well as the devoted men, who laid so deep
+and strong the pious foundation of Canada. Little do we really know of
+the nun, who in her religious devotion practically buries herself
+alive. Down in the Lower Town, near the Champlain Market, originally
+lived the first colony of Ursuline nuns, who came out with Madame de
+la Peltrie to teach and nurse the Indians. She afterwards left them,
+as already stated, and went to help settle Montreal. Later their
+establishment was removed to the Upper Town, where it now has an
+impressive array of buildings, with about fifty nuns, who educate most
+of the leading Quebec young ladies. The great success of this Order
+was due to its Superioress, Marie Gruyart, known as Mother Marie de
+l'Incarnation, a remarkable woman, who mastered the Huron and
+Algonquin languages, and devoted herself and her nuns to the
+special work of educating Indian girls, being called by Bossuet the
+"St. Theresa of the New World." In the shrines of this convent are
+relics of St. Clement Martyr, and other saints, brought from the Roman
+Catacombs. Its most famous possession is the remains of Montcalm, who
+was carried mortally wounded from the battlefield into the convent to
+die. His skull is preserved in a casket covered with glass, and is
+regarded with the greatest veneration. His body is buried in the
+chapel, and his grave is said to have been dug by a shell which burst
+there during the fierce bombardment preceding his death. This convent
+has had a chequered history, being repeatedly bombarded, and twice
+burnt during attacks on the city, and at times occupied as barracks by
+the troops of both friend and foe. Of late, however, the lives of
+these sisters of St. Ursula have been more tranquil.
+
+  [Illustration: _Montcalm's Headquarters, Quebec_]
+
+The most extensive collection of religious buildings is the Convent
+and Hospital of the Hotel Dieu, in the Upper Town. There are some
+sixty cloistered nuns of this Order, founded in 1639 by Cardinal
+Richelieu's niece, the Duchess d'Aguillon. They care for the sick and
+infirm poor, their hospital accommodating over six hundred. The oldest
+structure dates from 1654, and much of the collection is over two
+centuries old. The most precious relics in their convent are the
+remains of two of the Jesuit martyrs who went out from Sillery,
+Fathers Brébeuf and Lalemont. There is a silver bust of the former,
+and his skull is carefully preserved. Jean de Brébeuf was a Norman of
+noble birth, who came out with Champlain, and he and Lalemont were
+sent on a mission beyond Ontario to the Huron country, establishing
+the mission town of St. Ignace, near Niagara River. They lived sixteen
+years with these Indians, learning their language, and gaining great
+influence over them. The Iroquois from New York attacked and captured
+the town in 1649, taking the missionaries captive and putting them to
+death with frightful tortures. Brébeuf, who frequently had celestial
+visions, always announced his belief that he would die a martyr for
+Christ. The story of his torture is one of the most horrible in the
+colonial wars. He was bound to a stake and scorched from head to foot;
+his lower lip was cut away, and a red-hot iron thrust down his throat.
+They hung a necklace of glowing coals around his neck, which the
+indomitable priest stood heroically; they poured boiling water over
+his head and face in mockery of baptism; cut strips of flesh from his
+limbs, eating them before his eyes, scalped him, cut open his breast
+and drank his blood, then filled his eyes with live coals, and after
+four hours of torture, finally killed him by tearing out his heart,
+which the Indian chief at once devoured. The writer recording this
+terrible ordeal says, "Thus died Jean de Brébeuf, the founder of the
+Huron mission, its truest hero, and its greatest martyr. He came of a
+noble race,--the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls
+of Arundel, but never had the mailed barons of his line confronted a
+fate so appalling, with so prodigious a constancy. To the last he
+refused to flinch, and his death was the astonishment of his
+murderers." Gabriel Lalemont, his colleague, was a delicate young man,
+and was tortured seventeen hours, bearing the torments nobly, and
+though at times faltering, yet he would rally, and with uplifted hands
+offer his sufferings to heaven as a sacrifice. His bones are preserved
+in the Hotel Dieu. The burning of St. Ignace village dispersed the
+Hurons, but years afterwards a remnant was gathered by the Jesuit
+Fathers, and their descendants are at Lorette, up St. Charles River.
+
+From the Ursuline Convent the Champlain Steps lead down the cliff to
+the Champlain Market, having alongside it the ancient little church of
+Notre Dame des Victoires. This is a plain stone church of moderate
+size, built in 1688 as the church of Notre Dame, on the site of
+Champlain's house. The interior, which has had modern renovation,
+displays rich gilding, and the church's interesting history is told by
+two angels hovering over the chancel, each bearing a banner, one
+inscribed "1690" and the other "1711." The fiery Count de Frontenac,
+who was Louis XIV.'s Governor of Quebec, had ravaged the New England
+colonies, and in 1690, shortly after the church was built, Sir William
+Phips, from Massachusetts, retaliated. The Iroquois, who were English
+allies, menaced Montreal, and all the French troops were sent thither.
+Suddenly, in October, Phips and his fleet appeared in the St. Lawrence
+below Quebec. Urgent messages were sent the troops to return, and the
+devout Ursuline nuns prayed for deliverance with such fervor in the
+little church, that Phips was struck with a phase of indecision,
+wasted his time, summoned the town to surrender, a message which the
+bold Frontenac spurned, and then, without making an attack, Phips
+wasted more time, until the French troops did return, so that when the
+demonstration was made it was successfully repulsed, and after
+repeated disasters Phips and his fleet sailed back to New England.
+Great was the rejoicing in Quebec, a thanksgiving procession singing
+Te Deums marched to the little church, and then the Bishop, with an
+elaborate ceremonial, changed its name to Notre Dame de la Victoire.
+Twenty-one years afterwards, in 1711, another British invading force
+came up the river under Sir Hovenden Walker, and again the
+intercession of Notre Dame was implored. The reassuring answer quickly
+came by fog and storm, producing dire disaster to the fleet, eight
+ships being wrecked and many hundreds drowned. Quebec again was saved;
+there was the wildest rejoicing, and in honor of the double triumph
+the church was re-named as Notre Dame des Victoires. An annual
+religious festival is held on the fourth Sunday in October to
+commemorate these miraculous deliverances. But the famous little
+church was not always to escape unscathed. One of the Ursuline nuns
+prophesied that it would ultimately be destroyed by the British, who
+would finally conquer, and when Wolfe's batteries bombarded Quebec in
+1759 it severely suffered. It was repaired, and exists to-day as one
+of the most precious relics in the ancient city, in its oldest
+quarter, adjoining the market-place, and revered with all the
+unquestioning devotion of the _habitan_.
+
+
+THE DUFFERIN TERRACE.
+
+There is a fine outlook from the Dufferin Terrace, high up on the
+cliff above the river, the favorite gathering-place of the townsfolk
+on pleasant afternoons. The St. Lawrence flows placidly, with a narrow
+strip of town far down below at its edge, and a few vessels moored to
+the bank. At one's feet are the Champlain market and the famous little
+church, and a mass of the peaked tin-covered roofs of the diminutive
+French houses crowded in along the contracted street at the base of
+the cliff. High above rises the towering citadel with its rounded
+King's Bastion, the black guns thrusting their muzzles over the
+parapet and the Union Jack floating from a flagstaff at the top.
+Across the river is Point Levis, with piers and railroad terminals
+spread along the bank, and various villages with their imposing
+convents and churches crown the high bluff shore for a long distance
+up and down. Farther back upon the wooded slopes of the hills are the
+great modern built forts which command the river and are the military
+protection of Quebec, their lines of earthworks just discernible among
+the trees. The river sweeps grandly around the projecting point of
+Cape Diamond and the surmounting citadel, passing away to the
+northeast with broadening current, where it receives the St. Charles,
+and beyond is divided by the low projecting point of the green Isle of
+Orleans. The main channel flows to the right behind Point Levis, and
+the other far away to the left with the Falls of Montmorency in the
+distance, and the dark range of Laurentian Mountains for a background
+with the noble summit of Mount Sainte Anne, and the huge promontory of
+Cape Tourmente at the river's edge. Nearer, the Quebec Lower Town
+spreads to a flat point at St. Charles River, ending in the broad
+surface of Princess Louise Basin, containing the shipping. Beyond
+this, a long road extends along the northern river bank, through
+Beauport and down to Montmorency, bordered by little white French
+cottages strung along it like beads upon a thread. Such is the
+landscape of wondrous interest seen from the cliff of Quebec. Across
+the St. Lawrence, elevated one hundred and fifty feet above the river,
+between Quebec and Point Levis is about being constructed a great
+railway bridge with the largest cantilever span in the world.
+
+A ride along the attractive road through Beauport gives an insight
+into the home life of the French Canadian _habitan_. The village
+stretches several miles, a single street bordered on either hand by
+rows of unique cottages, nearly all alike; one-story steep-roofed
+houses of wood or plaster, almost all painted white, and one
+reproducing the other. The first Frenchman who arrived built this sort
+of a house, and all his neighbors and descendants have done likewise.
+They, like him, do it, because their ancestors builded so. The house
+may be larger, or may be of stone, but there is no change in form or
+feature. The centre doorway has a room on either hand with windows,
+and a steep roof rises above the single story. The house, regardless
+of the front road, must face north or south. The long, narrow strips
+of farms, some only a few yards wide, and of enormous length, run
+mathematically north and south. It matters not that this highway,
+parallel with the river, runs northeast. That cannot change the
+inexorable rule, and hence all the houses are set at an angle with the
+road, and all the dividing-fence lines are diagonals. The sun-loving
+Gaul taboos shade-trees, and therefore the sun blazes down upon the
+unsheltered house in summer, while the careful housewife, to keep out
+the excessive light, closes all the windows with thick shades made of
+old-fashioned wall-papers. The little triangular space between the
+cottage and the road is usually a brilliant flower-garden. Crosses are
+set up frequently for the encouragement of the faithful, and there
+are imposing churches and ecclesiastical buildings at intervals. Along
+this road ride the French in their queer-looking two-wheeled caléches,
+appearing much like a deep-bowled spoon set on wheels, and in
+elongated buckboard wagons of ancient build, surmounted by the most
+homely and venerable gig-tops. These French cottages are more
+picturesque than their vehicles.
+
+The French Canadian _habitan_, the _cultivateur_, and peasant of
+Quebec province, is about the same to-day as he was two or three
+centuries ago. The Lower Canada village reproduces the French hamlet
+of the time of Louis XIV., and the inhabitants show the same zealous
+and absorbing religious devotion as when the French first peopled the
+St. Lawrence shores. Within the cottage, hung above the _habitan's_
+modest bed, is the black wooden cross that is to be the first thing
+greeting the waking eyes in the morning, as it has been the last
+object seen at night. Below it is the sprig of palm in a vase, with
+the little bonitier of holy water, and alongside is placed the
+calendar of religious events in the parish. The palm sprig is annually
+renewed on Palm Sunday, the old sprig being then carefully burnt.
+Great is its power in warding off lightning strokes and exorcising the
+evil spirits. The central object around which every village clusters
+is always the church, with its high walls, sloping roof, and tall and
+shining tin-clad spire. The curé is the village autocrat; the legal
+and medical adviser, the family counsellor, and usually the political
+leader of his flock. He blesses all the houses when they are built,
+and as soon as the walls are up a bunch of palm is attached to the
+gable or the chimney, a gun being fired to mark the event. When the
+_Angelus_ tolls all stop work, wherever they are, and say the short
+prayer in devout attitude. Before beginning or completing any task the
+reverent _habitans_ always piously cross themselves. They do this also
+in passing churches, or the many crosses and statues set up along the
+roads and in the villages. They are temperate, industrious and
+thrifty, live simply, eat the plainest food, are abundantly content
+with their lot, and usually raise large families. In fact, there is a
+bounty given, by act of the Quebec Provincial Legislature, of one
+hundred acres of land to parents having more than twelve living
+children. It is not infrequent to find twenty-five or thirty or more
+children in a single family. In personal appearance the _habitan_ is
+generally of small or medium size, with sparkling brown eyes, dark
+complexion, a placid face and well-knit frame. He has strong endurance
+and capacity for work, but usually not much education, the prayer-book
+furnishing most of the family reading. The Church encourages early
+marriages, and domestic fecundity is honored as a special gift from
+Heaven. The pious veneration, like the creed of this simple-minded
+people, is the same to-day as it was in the seventeenth century.
+Their faith is fervent and their belief complete. They typify the
+beautiful idea the late Cardinal Newman exemplified in his exquisite
+poem:
+
+     "Lead, kindly Light, amid the encircling gloom,
+         Lead thou me on;
+     The night is dark, and I am far from home;
+         Lead thou me on;
+     Keep thou my feet; I do not ask to see
+         The distant scene; one step enough for me.
+
+     "I was not ever thus, nor prayed that thou
+         Shouldst lead me on;
+     I loved to choose and see my path; but now
+         Lead thou me on!
+     I loved the garish day, and spite of fears
+     Pride ruled my will. Remember not past years!
+
+     "So long thy power hast blest me, sure it still
+         Will lead me on
+     O'er moor and fen, o'er crag and torrent, till
+         The night is gone,
+     And with the morn those angel faces smile,
+     Which I have loved long since and lost awhile!"
+
+
+LA BONNE SAINTE ANNE.
+
+This road leads to the Montmorency River, a vigorous stream flowing
+out of Snow Lake, ninety miles northward, down to the St. Lawrence.
+For a mile or so above the latter river it has worn a series of steps
+in the limestone rocks, making attractive rapids, and the waters
+finally pitch over a nearly perpendicular precipice, almost at the
+verge of the St. Lawrence, falling two hundred and fifty feet in a
+magnificent cataract, the dark amber torrent brilliantly foaming, and
+making vast amounts of spray. In winter there is formed a cone of ice
+in front of these falls, sometimes two hundred feet high. The cataract
+goes down into a deep gorge, worn back through the rocks, some
+distance from the St. Lawrence bank, and protruding cliffs in the face
+of the fall make portions of the water, when part way down, dart out
+in huge masses of foam and spray. A large sawmill below gets its power
+from this cataract, and it also provides the electric lighting service
+for Quebec. Farther down the north shore of the St. Lawrence, through
+more quaint villages--L'Ange Gardien and Chateau Richer--the road
+leads along breezy hills and pleasant vales in the Coté de Beaupré, to
+the most renowned shrine of all Canada, about twenty miles below
+Quebec, the Church of "La Bonne Sainte Anne de Beaupré." This famous
+old church is the special shrine of the _habitan_, the objective point
+of many pilgrim parties from Canada and New England, where there now
+is a large population of French Canadians, as many as a hundred and
+fifty thousand pilgrims coming in a single year, and it is the most
+venerated spot in all Lower Canada. The Coté de Beaupré, the northern
+St. Lawrence shore below Montmorency, is an appanage of the Seminary
+of Quebec. The little Sainte Anne's river comes down from the slopes
+of Sainte Anne's Mountain among the Laurentides, and after dashing
+over the steep and attractive cataract of Sainte Anne, flows out to
+the St. Lawrence. Upon the level and picturesque intervale of this
+stream is a primitive French village, whose people get support partly
+by making bricks for Quebec, but mainly through the entertainment of
+the army of pilgrims coming to the miraculous shrine of "La Bonne
+Sainte Anne." The village spreads mostly along a narrow street filled
+with inns and lodging-houses which are crowded during the pilgrimage
+season from June till October, culminating on Sainte Anne's festival
+day, July 26th. To the eastward of the village is the beautiful
+church, not long ago built from the pious doles of the faithful, a
+massive and elaborate granite building. Just above it, upon the bank,
+is the original little church of Sainte Anne, which is so highly
+venerated, and wherein the sacred relics of the saint are carefully
+kept in a crystal globe, and are exhibited at morning mass, when their
+contemplation by the pilgrims, combined with faith, works miraculous
+cures. The old church of 1658, threatening to fall, was taken down in
+1878, and rebuilt with the same materials on the original plan. It is
+quaintly furnished in the French-Canadian style of the seventeenth
+century, and one of its features is the mass of abandoned crutches and
+canes piled along the cornices and in the sacristy, left by the
+cripples who have departed relieved or healed.
+
+This is probably the holiest ground in Canada, consecrated by nearly
+three centuries of the most fervent devotion of the ever-faithful
+_habitans_. Just below Sainte Anne is the companion village of St.
+Joachim. Sainte Anne was the mother and St. Joachim the father of the
+Virgin Mary. The tradition is that after Sainte Anne's body had
+reposed quietly for many years at Jerusalem, it was sent to the Bishop
+of Marseilles, and later to Apt, where it was placed in a subterranean
+chapel to guard it from heathen profanation. The church at Apt was
+swept away by the invader, but some seven centuries afterwards the
+Emperor Charlemagne visited the town, and marvellous incidents took
+place, light being seen emanating from the vault accompanied by a
+delicious fragrance, whereupon investigation was made and the long
+lost remains of Sainte Anne recovered. Ever since, her sacred relics
+have been highly venerated in France, and it was natural that the
+early French Canadians should bring their pious devotion into the new
+Province. Various churches were built in her honor, the chief being
+this one at Beaupré, by the devout Governor d'Allebout. With his own
+hands the Governor began the pious work of erecting the church, and as
+an encouragement, the Cathedral Chapter in France sent to the new
+shrine a relic of Sainte Anne--a portion of a finger-bone--together
+with a reliquary of silver, a lamp, and some paintings, all being
+preserved in this church. The legend of the building is, that upon its
+site a beautiful little child of the village was thrice favored with
+Heavenly visions. Upon the third appearance, the Virgin commanded the
+child that she should tell her people to build a church there in honor
+of her saintly mother. Thus was the location chosen, and while the
+foundation was being laid, a _habitan_ of the Coté de Beaupré, one
+Guimont, sorely afflicted with rheumatism, came there with great
+difficulty, and filled with pain, to try and lay three stones in the
+wall, presumably in honor of the Virgin, her father and mother. With
+much labor and suffering he performed the task, but instantly it was
+completed he became miraculously cured. This began a long series of
+miracles, their fame spreading, so that devotion to Sainte Anne became
+a distinguishing feature of French-Canadian Catholicity.
+
+The great Bishop Laval de Montmorency made Sainte Anne's day a feast
+of obligation. During the French régime, vessels ascending the St.
+Lawrence always saluted when passing the shrine, in grateful
+thanksgiving that their prayers to Sainte Anne had been answered by
+deliverance from the perils of the sea. Pilgrims flocked thither, and
+many cures were wrought by pious veneration of the relics. As religion
+spread among the Indians, sometimes the adjacent shore would be
+covered by the wigwams of the converts who had come in their canoes
+from remote regions, and the more fervent of them would crawl on their
+knees from the river bank to the altar. To-day the pilgrims bring
+their offerings and make their vows, pleading for relief, many
+crossing the ocean from France, and it is said of these votaries at
+the shrine that they now come, "not in paint and feathers, but in
+cloth and millinery, and not in canoes, but in steamboats." It is
+noteworthy that in all the vicissitudes of war repeatedly waged around
+the famous place, the village being sacked and burned, the church was
+always preserved. When the British under Wolfe, prior to capturing
+Quebec in 1759, attacked Beaupré, they three times, tradition says,
+set fire to the church, but by the special intervention of Sainte Anne
+it escaped unscathed. Upon Sainte Anne's festival day, in 1891, many
+thousand pilgrims poured into the village, and Cardinal Archbishop
+Taschereau came down from Quebec, bringing another precious relic of
+Sainte Anne--a complete finger-joint--which he had obtained for the
+shrine from Carcassonne, in Languedoc, France. The Holy Father had
+raised the new church to the dignity of a Basilica, and two years
+previously he also sent from Rome a massive golden crown, set with
+precious stones, and valued at $56,000. This crown was worn by the
+rich statue of Sainte Anne, holding the infant Virgin in her arms,
+which stands before the chancel. There was an elaborate ceremonial, a
+large number of priests participating, and a solemn procession
+translated the precious relic to the church, where, after the
+services, it was venerated, the reliquary containing it being
+presented to the lips of each communicant kneeling in the sanctuary.
+Several miraculous cures were announced, but it is recorded that most
+of the cripples taken into the church had to be carried out again
+unrelieved. Around this sacred shrine crystallizes in the highest
+degree the pious veneration of the faithful French-Canadian
+_habitans_.
+
+
+THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
+
+The river St. Lawrence below Quebec is a mighty arm of the sea,
+stretching in from the Atlantic, through a vast valley enclosed by the
+primeval forest. The northern shore shows the domination of
+ruggedness, for here begins the mountain wall of the Laurentides,
+stretching far away northeastward down the river towards Labrador. The
+southern shore is less forbidding, having wide fertile slopes rising
+to a background of wooded hills. Along the river bank is a sparsely
+scattered strip of humanity, which is likened to a rosary, having the
+primitive farmhouses for beads, and at every few miles a tall,
+cross-crowned church spire. Set in between the river banks, just below
+Quebec, is the broad and fertile Isle of Orleans, but beyond this the
+St. Lawrence is six miles wide, and steadily broadens, attaining
+twenty-four miles width at Tadousac, the mouth of the Saguenay, and
+thirty-five width at Metis, one hundred and fifty miles below Quebec.
+The Isle of Orleans is twenty miles long and very fertile, largely
+supplying the markets of Quebec. To the northward Mount Sainte Anne,
+the guardian of the famous shrine, rises twenty-seven hundred feet.
+Jacques Cartier so liked the grapes grown on the island that he called
+it the Isle of Bacchus, but the king, Francis I., would not have it
+so, and named it after his son, the Duke of Orleans. Here were
+massacred the Hurons by the Iroquois, who captured from them the great
+cross of Argentenay, carrying it off to their stronghold, on Onondaga
+Lake, New York, in 1661. On the northern shore of the island is the
+old stone church of St. Laurent and farther along that of St. Pierre,
+the meadows hereabout providing good shooting. The faithful at St.
+Laurent were said to have been long the envied possessors of a piece
+of the arm-bone of the Apostle Paul, a most precious relic, which was
+clandestinely seized and taken over to St. Pierre Church. This made a
+great commotion, and some of the young men of St. Laurent made an
+expedition at night, entered the church, recaptured the relic, and
+brought it back with some other articles, restoring it to the original
+shrine. A controversy between the villagers followed, growing so
+fierce that an outbreak was threatened, and the Archbishop at Quebec
+had to intervene to keep the peace. He ordered each church to restore
+the other its relics, which was done with solemn ceremony, processions
+marching along the road between the villages, and making the exchange
+midway, a large black cross since marking the spot.
+
+The great promontory of the Laurentides, Cape Tourmente, stretches to
+the river, with the dark mass of ancient mountains spreading beyond in
+magnificent array, the cliffs rising high above the water, firs
+clinging to their sides and crowning their worn and rounded summits.
+On top of Tourmente the Seminarians have erected a huge cross, seen
+from afar, with a little chapel alongside. The old Canadian traveller,
+Charlevoix, said Cape Tourmente was probably so-called "because he
+that gave it this name suffered here by a gust of wind."
+
+     "At length they spy huge Tourmente, sullen-browed,
+     Bathe his bald forehead in a passing cloud;
+     The Titan of the lofty capes that gleam
+     In long succession down the mighty stream."
+
+Here are Grosse Isle, the quarantine station for the river, and the
+Isle aux Coudres--Hazel Tree Island,--behind which a break in the
+Laurentides makes a pleasant nook, the Bay of St. Paul, having little
+villages named after the saints all about. Below, the mountain range
+rises into the great Mount Eboulements, twenty-five hundred feet high,
+its sides scarred by landslides brought down by various earthquakes,
+which were once so frequent that the Indians called the region
+Cuscatlan, meaning "the land that swings like a hammock." The name of
+this mountain means the "falling, shaking, crumbling mountain," but
+it is nevertheless now noted as the haughtiest headland of the
+Laurentides. This whole region has been a great sufferer from volcanic
+disturbances, the chief being in 1663, when the historian says "the
+St. Lawrence ran white as milk as far down as Tadousac; ranges of
+hills were thrown down into the river or were swallowed up in the
+plains; earthquakes shattered the houses and shook the trees until the
+Indians said that the forests were drunk; vast fissures opened in the
+ground and the courses of streams were changed. Meteors, fiery-winged
+serpents and ghostly spectres were seen in the air; roarings and
+mysterious voices sounded on every side, and the confessionals of all
+the churches were crowded with penitents awaiting the end of the
+world." Below this frowning mountain, the little Murray River flows
+in, making a deep bay and sandy beaches, and far back, under the
+shadows of the bordering hills, are the parish church and the French
+village of St. Agnes up the river. This place is Murray Bay, a
+favorite watering-place, known as Malbaie among the French, the hotels
+and wide one-story cottages of this Canadian Newport being scattered
+in the ravine and on the hill-slopes. When Champlain first entered
+this bay in 1608 he named it Malle Baie, explaining that this was
+because of "the tide that runs there marvellously." It is said that an
+attempt was once made to settle Murray Bay with Scotch emigrants, but
+the families who were sent out soon succumbed to the overwhelming
+influence of the surroundings, and their descendants, while having
+unmistakable Scottish names, have adopted the French language and
+customs. Over on the southern bank, thirty miles away, for the river
+is now very wide, is another favorite resort, Riviere du Loup, with
+the adjacent village of Kamouraska, the great church of St. Louis and
+a large convent being prominent in the latter.
+
+Riviere du Loup is the best developed of the watering-places of the
+Lower St. Lawrence. The shore is gentle, and in sharp contrast with
+the rugged northern bank. The village spreads on a broad plateau,
+formed by the inflowing stream, there being hotels and boarding-houses
+scattered about, a tall-spired church back of the town, and a long
+wharf stretching out in front. To the eastward the sloping shore
+extends far away to Cacouna, eight miles below, another favorite
+resort also sentinelled by its church. The Riviere du Loup (Wolf
+River) naming this place flows out of the distant southern mountains
+to the St. Lawrence, and is said to have been so called from the
+droves of seals,--called by the French "loups-marines"--formerly
+frequenting the shoals off its mouth. Just back of the village the
+stream plunges down a waterfall eighty feet high. Cacouna is the most
+fashionable resort of the southern shore, and a place of comparatively
+recent growth, its semicircular bay with a good beach and the cool
+summer airs being the attractions. In front and connected by a low
+isthmus is a large peninsula of rounded granite rock, shaped much like
+a turtle-back and rising four hundred feet. From this came the Indian
+name, Cacouna, or the turtle.
+
+
+THE GRAND AND GLOOMY SAGUENAY.
+
+Far over to the northward, across the broad river, is ancient
+Tadousac, enclosed by the guarding mountains at the entrance to the
+Saguenay. The harbor and landing are within a small rounded bay,
+having the Salmon Hatching House of the Dominion alongside the wharf,
+a cascade pouring down the hillside behind, and a little white inn
+prettily perched above on a shelf of rock. The village spreads over
+irregular terraces, encircling three of these little rounded bays,
+beyond which the narrow Saguenay chasm goes off westward through the
+mountains into a savage wilderness. This place has been a trading-post
+with the Indians for over three centuries, and the ancient buildings
+of the Hudson Bay Company testify to the traffic in furs, once so
+good, which has become almost obsolete. It was visited by Cartier in
+1535, and afterwards was established as one of the earliest missions
+of the Jesuits, who came here in 1599 and raised the cross among the
+Nasquapees of the Saguenay--the "upright men," as they called
+themselves,--and the Montaignais, both then powerful tribes, which
+have since entirely disappeared from this region, having withdrawn to
+its upper waters, around and beyond Lake St. John. The old chapel,
+replacing the original Jesuit church--said to have been the first
+erected in North America--stands down by the waterside, a diminutive,
+peak-roofed, one-story building, kept as a memorial of the past, for
+the people now worship in a fine new stone church farther up the
+rounded hill-slope. These knoll-like rounded hills or mamelons named
+the place, for they are numerous, and Tadousac, literally a "nipple,"
+is the Indian word for them. The most valued possession of the church
+is a figure of the child Jesus, originally sent to the mission by King
+Louis XIV. This is the oldest settlement of the Lower St. Lawrence.
+
+The stern and gloomy Saguenay, the largest tributary of the Lower St.
+Lawrence, is one of the most remarkable rivers in the world. Its main
+portion is a tremendous chasm cleft in a nearly straight line for
+sixty miles in the Laurentian Mountains, through an almost unsettled
+wilderness. These Laurentides make the northern shore of the St.
+Lawrence for hundreds of miles below Quebec, rising into higher peaks
+and ridges in the interior, and being the most ancient part of
+America, the geologists telling us the waves of the Silurian Sea
+washed against this range when only two small islands represented the
+rest of the continent. Through this vast chasm the Saguenay brings
+down the waters of Lake St. John and its many tributaries, some of
+them rising in the remote north, almost up to Hudson Bay. This lower
+portion of the river goes through an almost uninhabitable desert of
+gloomy mountains, the tillable land being in the basin of the Upper
+Saguenay and Lake St. John, the people of that valley living there in
+almost complete isolation. Logs and huckleberries are the crops
+produced on this savage river, the only things the sparse population
+can depend upon for a living, and the fine blueberries bring them the
+scant doles of ready money they ever see. The Saguenay's inky waters
+have the smell of brine as they break in froth upon the shore, and
+then the air-bubbles show the real color to be that of brandy. The
+upper tributaries give this color as they flow out of forests of
+spruce and hemlock and swamps filled with mosses and highly colored
+roots and vegetable matter. Almost all the lakes and rivers of the
+vast wilderness north of the St. Lawrence present a similar
+appearance, their rapids and waterfalls, seen under the sunshine,
+seeming like sheets of liquid amber.
+
+The vast accumulations of waters gathered from the heart of the
+Laurentides by the tributaries of Lake St. John flow down the rapids
+below the lake in a stream rivalling those of Niagara. Thus the
+Saguenay comes into being in the form of lusty twins--the Grand
+Discharge and the Little Discharge--deep and narrow river channels
+worn in the rocks. For some miles they run separately through rapids
+and pools, finally joining at the foot of Alma Island, where begin
+the Gervais Rapids, four miles long. The Grand Discharge is a
+beautiful stream of rapids, the rippling and roaring currents flowing
+through a maze of islands, while the Little Discharge is a condensed
+stream, so powerful and unruly that it actually destroys the logs in
+its boisterous cataracts, the government having made a "Slide," down
+which the timber is run past the dangerous places. After passing
+Gervais Rapids the Saguenay has a quiet reach of fifteen miles to the
+Grand Ramous, the most furious cascade of all, and then a few more
+miles of rapids and falls bring it to Chicoutimi, ending its wild
+career where it meets the tide above Ha Ha Bay. The first bold
+Frenchmen who ventured up through the stupendous and forbidding chasm
+of the Lower Saguenay gave this bay its name, to show their delight at
+having finally emerged from the gloomy region. At Ha Ha Bay the tide
+often rises twenty-one feet, and below, the river forces its passage
+with a broad channel through almost perpendicular cliffs out to the
+St. Lawrence. Its great depth is noteworthy, showing what a fearful
+chasm has been split open, there being in many places a mile to a mile
+and a half depth, while the channel throughout averages eight hundred
+feet depth. For most of the distance the river is a mile or more wide.
+The original name given the river by the Montaignais was Chicoutimi,
+or the "deep water," now given the village below the foot of the
+rapids. The present name is a corruption of the Indian word
+Saggishsékuss, meaning "a strait with precipitous banks." The sad
+sublimity of the impressive chasm culminates at Eternity Bay, where on
+either hand rise in stately grandeur to sixteen hundred feet elevation
+above the water Cape Trinity, with its three summits, and Cape
+Eternity. Ten miles above is Le Tableau, a cliff one thousand feet
+high, its vast smooth front like an artist's canvas.
+
+This sombre river, whose bed is much lower than that of the St.
+Lawrence, is frozen for almost its whole course during half the year,
+and snow lies on its bordering mountains until June. It makes a
+saddening impression upon most visitors. Bayard Taylor compared the
+Saguenay chasm to the Dead Sea and Jordan Valley, describing
+everything as "hard, naked, stern, silent; dark gray cliffs of
+granitic gneiss rise from the pitch-black water; firs of gloomy green
+are rooted in their crevices and fringe their summits; loftier ranges
+of a dull indigo hue show themselves in the background, and over all
+bends a pale, cold, northern sky." Another traveller calls it "a cold,
+savage, inhuman river, fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron;" and
+"Nature's sarcophagus," compared to which, "the Dead Sea is blooming;"
+and so solitary, dreary and monotonous that it "seems to want
+painting, blowing up or draining--anything, in short, to alter its
+morose, quiet, eternal awe."
+
+
+EXPLORING THE SAGUENAY CHASM.
+
+Ha Ha Bay, where the exploring Frenchmen found such relief for their
+oppressed feelings, is a long strait thrust through the mountains
+southwest from the Saguenay for several miles, broadening at the head
+into an oval bay, practically a basin among the crags, with two or
+three French villages around it, named after various saints. The
+modest one-story huts of the _habitans_ fringe the lower slopes near
+the water's edge along the valleys of several small streams, each
+cluster having its church with the tall spire. The basin is two or
+three miles across, enclosed by bold cliffs and rounded hills, the
+wide beaches of sand and pebble showing the great rise and fall of the
+tide. There is a sawmill or two, and lumber and huckleberries are the
+products of the district. Chicoutimi village is above the chasm, at a
+point where the intervale broadens, the savage mountains retiring,
+leaving a space for gentle tree-clad slopes and cultivated fields.
+Standing high on the western bank are the magnificent Cathedral, the
+Seminary, a Sailors' Hospital, and the Convent of the Good Shepherd,
+and not far away a tributary stream pours fifty feet down the
+Chicoutimi Falls in a rushing cascade of foam. There are extensive
+sawmills, and timber ships come in the summer for cargoes for Europe,
+and the place has railway connections with Lake St. John and thence
+southward to Quebec. There is a population of about three thousand.
+The universal little one-story, peak-roofed, whitewashed French
+cottages abound, some having a casing of squared pieces of birch-bark
+to protect them from the weather, making them look much like stone
+houses, and peeping inside it is found that the inhabitants usually
+utilize their old newspapers for wall-paper.
+
+From Chicoutimi down to Tadousac the region of the Saguenay chasm is
+practically without habitation. There are two or three small villages,
+chiefly abodes of timber-cutters, but it is otherwise uninhabited; nor
+do the precipitous cliffs usually leave any place near the river for a
+dwelling to be put. As the visitor goes along on the steamboat it is a
+steady and monotonous panorama of dark, dreary, round-topped crags,
+with stunted firs sparsely clinging to their sides and tops where
+crevices will let them, while the faces of the cliffs are white, gray,
+brown and black, as their granites change in color. A few frothy but
+attenuated cascades pour down narrow fissures. The scene, while
+sublime, is forbidding, and soon becomes so monotonous as to be
+tiresome. This gaunt and savage landscape culminates in Eternity Bay.
+Ponderous buttresses here guard the narrow gulf on the southern shore,
+formed by the outflow of a little river. The western portal, Cape
+Trinity, as the steamboat approaches from above, appears as a series
+of huge steps, each five hundred feet high, and the faithful
+missionaries have climbed up and placed a tall white statue of the
+Virgin on one of the steps, about seven hundred feet above the river,
+and a large cross on the next higher step, both being seen from afar.
+Passing around into the bay, the gaunt eastern face of this enormous
+promontory is found to be a perpendicular wall of the rawest granite,
+standing sixteen hundred feet straight up from the water. At the top
+it grandly rises on the bay side into three huge crown-like domes,
+which, upon being seen by the original French explorers when they came
+up the river, made them appropriately name it the Trinity. This is one
+of the most awe-inspiring promontories human eyes ever beheld, as it
+rises sheer out of water over half a mile deep. Across the narrow bay,
+the eastern portal, Cape Eternity, similarly rises in solemn grandeur,
+with solid unbroken sides and a wooded top fully as high. The entire
+Saguenay River is of much the same character, repeating these crags
+and promontories in myriad forms. While not always as high, yet the
+enclosing mountains elsewhere are almost as impressive and fully as
+dismal. The steamboat, aided by the swift tide, moves rapidly through
+the deep canyon, one rounded peak and long ridge being much like the
+others, with the same monotonous dreariness everywhere, and every rift
+disclosing only more distant sombre mountains. The chasm throughout
+its length has no beacons for navigation, the shores being so steep
+and the waters so deep they are unnecessary. A sense of relief is
+felt when the open waters at Tadousac and the St. Lawrence are
+reached, for the journey makes everyone feel much like a writer in the
+London _Times_, who said of it: "Unlike Niagara and all other of God's
+great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or solitude here.
+Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitude like
+this."
+
+
+THE ANGLING GROUNDS OF LOWER CANADA.
+
+Quebec province, on the Lower St. Lawrence, for hundreds of miles
+north and east of the river is filled with myriads of lakes and
+streams that are the haunts of the hunter and angler, and the
+Government gets considerable revenue from the fishery rentals. As far
+away as five hundred miles from Quebec, up in Labrador, is the
+Natashquin River, and eight hundred miles down the St. Lawrence is the
+Little Esquimau, these being the most distant fishery grounds. Among
+the noted fishing streams are the grand Cascapedia, the Metapedia, the
+Upsalquitch, the Patapedia, the Quatawamkedgewick (usually called, for
+short, the "Tom Kedgewick"), and the Restigouche, on the southern side
+of the Lower St. Lawrence, their waters being described as flowing out
+to "the undulating and voluptuous Bay of Chaleurs, full of long folds,
+of languishing contours, which the wind caresses with fan-like breath,
+and whose softened shores receive the flooding of the waves without a
+murmur." Around the great Lake St. John there is also a maze of lakes
+and fishery streams. The most noted Canadian fishery organization is
+the "Restigouche Salmon Club," having its club-house on the
+Restigouche River, at its junction with the Metapedia, and controlling
+a large territory. The guides in this region are usually Micmac
+Indians, who have been described on account of their energy as the
+"Scotch-Irish Indians." This tribe originally inhabited the whole of
+Lower Canada south of the St. Lawrence, being found there by Cartier,
+and the French named them the Sourequois or "Salt-Water Indians,"
+because they lived on the seacoast. They were staunch allies of the
+French, who converted them to Christianity from being sun-worshippers.
+They have a reservation near Campbellton, on the Restigouche, and a
+populous village surrounding a Catholic church. There are now about
+seven thousand of them, all told, throughout the provinces. Glooscap
+was the mythical chief of the Micmacs, whose power and genius were
+shown throughout all the region from New England to Gaspé. He was of
+unknown origin, and invincible, and he conquered the "great Beaver,
+feared by beasts and men," on the river Kennebecasis, near St. John.
+Glooscap's favorite home and beaver-pond was the Basin of Minas, in
+Nova Scotia, where afterwards dwelt Longfellow's Evangeline. Micmac
+traditions describe him as the "envoy of the Great Spirit," who lived
+above in a great wigwam, and was always attended by an aged dame and
+a beautiful youth. He had the form and habits of humanity, and taught
+his tribe how to hunt and fish, to build wigwams and canoes, and to
+heal diseases. He controlled the elements and overthrew all enemies of
+his people; but the tradition adds that on the approach of the
+English, the great Glooscap, "finding that the ways of beasts and men
+waxed evil," turned his huge hunting-dogs into stone, and his huntsmen
+into restless and wailing loons, and then he vanished.
+
+The route to the angling waters of the great Lake St. John is by
+railway northward from Quebec. It goes up the valley of St. Charles
+River, past Lorette, where beautiful cascades turn the mill-wheels.
+Here are gathered the scanty halfbreed remnant of the Hurons, once the
+most powerful and ferocious tribe in Canada, who drove out the
+Iroquois and compelled their migration down to New York State. These
+Indians are said to have been Wyandots, but when the French saw them,
+with their hair rising in bristling ridges above their painted
+foreheads, the astonished beholders exclaimed, "Quelles hures!" (what
+boars!) and hence the name of Huron came to them. The railroad goes
+for two hundred miles past lakes and streams, and through the dense
+forests of these remote Laurentian mountains, until it finally comes
+out on the lake shore at the ancient mission town of "Our Lady of
+Roberval," now become, through the popularity of the district, a
+modern watering-place. This great Lake St. John, so much admired by
+the Canadian and American anglers, was called by the Indians the
+Picouagomi, or "Flat Lake," and it is in a region shaped much like a
+saucer, lying in a hollow, with hills rising up into mountains in the
+background all around. The lake is thirty miles long and about
+twenty-five miles across, having no less than nineteen large rivers,
+besides smaller ones flowing into it from the surrounding mountains,
+the vast accumulation of waters being carried off by the Saguenay. The
+immense flow of some of these rivers may be realized when it is known
+that the Mistassini, coming down from the northward, is three hundred
+miles long, and the Peribonka four hundred miles long, while the
+Ouiatchouan from the south, just before reaching the lake, dashes down
+a grand cascade, two hundred and eighty feet high, making an elongated
+sheet of perfectly white foam.
+
+Until the middle of the nineteenth century, this wonderful lake and
+its immense tributaries were scarcely known to white men, yet upon its
+shores stood Notre Dame de Roberval and St. Louis Chambord, two of the
+oldest Jesuit Indian missions in America. For more than two centuries,
+until the angler and lumberman began going to this remote wilderness,
+it was a buried paradise in the distant woods, without inhabitants,
+excepting a few Montaignais and their priests, and a scattered post or
+two of the Hudson Bay Company, whose occasional expeditions over to
+Quebec for supplies were the only communication with the outer world.
+The solid graystone church and convent stand in bold relief among the
+neat little white French cottages at Roberval, there are an immense
+sawmill and a modern hotel, while in front is the grand sweep of the
+lake, like a vast inland sea, its opposite shore almost beyond vision,
+excepting where a far-away mountain spur may loom just above the
+horizon. Here lives the famous ouananiche of the salmon family, called
+"land-locked," because it is believed he is unable to get out to other
+waters. He is a gamey and magnificent fish, with dark-blue back and
+silvery sides, mottled with olive spots, thus literally clothed in
+purple and fine silver. He has enormous strength, making him the
+champion finny warrior of the Canadian waters. The chief fishery
+ground for him is in the swirling rapids of the Grand Discharge. The
+native Montaignais, or "mountaineer" Indian of this region, is a most
+expert angler, seducing the royal fish with an inartistic lump of fat
+pork on the end of a line from his frail canoe among the rapids, and
+hooking the game more effectively than the costliest rod and reel in
+the hands of a "tenderfoot." These dusky, consumptive-looking,
+copper-colored Indians spend the winters in the unexplored wilds of
+the Mistassini, and wander through all the wilderness as far as Hudson
+Bay. When the snows are gone, they bring in the pelts of the beaver,
+otter, fox and bear, to trade at the Company posts, and living in
+rude birch-bark huts on the bank of the lake, spend the summer in
+fishing, and pick up a few dollars as boatmen and guides.
+
+
+THE ST. LAWRENCE ESTUARY.
+
+Below the mouth of the Saguenay, the St. Lawrence stretches four
+hundred miles to the ocean, its broad estuary constantly growing
+wider. On the southern shore, below Cacouna, there is another resort
+at a little river's mouth, known as Trois Pistoles. It is related that
+in the olden time a traveller was ferried across this little river,
+the fisherman doing the service charging him three pistoles (ten franc
+pieces), equalling about six dollars. The traveller was astonished at
+the charge, and asked him the name of the river. "It has no name," was
+the reply, "it will be baptized at a later day." "Then," said the
+traveller, anxious to get the worth of his money, "I baptize it Three
+Pistoles," a name that has continued ever since. This diminutive
+village seems rather in luck, for unlike most of the others, it has
+two churches, each with a tall spire. The Lower St. Lawrence shores
+maintain communication across the wide estuary by canoe ferries,
+established at various places. A stout canoe, twenty feet or more
+long, and having a crew of seven men, usually makes the passage. The
+boat is built with broad, flat keel, shod with iron, moving easily
+over the ice which for half the year closes the river, not breaking up
+until late in the spring, and sometimes obstructing the outlet
+through the Strait of Belle Isle until July. Farther down the southern
+shore, below Trois Pistoles, is Rimouski, a much larger place,
+described as the metropolis of the Lower St. Lawrence, and the outlet
+of the region of the Metapedia. This town has a Bishop and a
+Cathedral. Beyond are Father Point and Metis, and the land then
+extends past Cape Chatte into the wilderness of Gaspé. When Jacques
+Cartier first entered the river in 1534, he landed at Gaspé, taking
+possession of the whole country in the name of the King of France, and
+erecting a tall cross adorned with the fleur-de-lys. Very
+appropriately, Gaspé means the "Land's End." They found here the
+Micmac Indians, who were then reputed to be quite intelligent, knowing
+the points of the compass and position of the stars, and having rude
+maps of their country and a knowledge of the cross. Their tradition,
+as told to Cartier's sailors, was that in distant ages a pestilence
+harassed them, when a venerable man landed on their shore and stayed
+the progress of the disease by erecting a cross. This mysterious
+benefactor is supposed to have been a Norseman, or early Spanish
+adventurer. An old Castilian tale is that gold-hunting Spaniards,
+after the discovery by Columbus, sailed along these coasts, and
+finding no precious metals, said in disgust to the Indians, "Aca
+náda," meaning, "there is nothing here." This phrase became fixed in
+the Indian mind, and supposing Cartier's party to be the same people,
+they endeavored to open conversation by repeating the same words, "Aca
+náda! aca náda!" Thus, according to one theory, originated the name of
+Canada, the Frenchmen supposing they were telling the name of the
+country. Another authority is that the literal meaning of the Mohawk
+(Iroquois) word Canada is, "Where they live," or "a village," and as
+it was the word Cartier, on his voyages up the river, most frequently
+heard from the Indians, as applied to the homes of the people, it
+naturally named the country.
+
+The surface of the southern country behind Cape Chatte, and of Gaspé
+(Cape Gaspé being a promontory seven hundred feet high), rises into
+the frowning mountains of Notre Dame, the most lofty in Lower Canada,
+the chief peak elevated four thousand feet. In 1648 a French explorer
+wrote of these stately ranges that "all those who come to New France
+know well enough the mountains of Notre Dame, because the pilots and
+sailors, being arrived at that point of the great river which is
+opposite to these high mountains, baptize, ordinarily for sport, the
+new passengers, if they do not turn aside by some present the
+inundation of this baptism, which is made to flow plentifully on their
+heads." The bold southern shore of the St. Lawrence finally ends
+beyond Cape Gaspé, where its mouth is ninety-six miles wide in the
+headland of Cape Rosier, described by dreading mariners as the
+"Scylla of the St. Lawrence."
+
+The northern shore of the great river, beyond the mouth of the
+Saguenay, is almost uninhabited. There is an occasional fishing-post,
+but it is almost an unknown region, though once there were Jesuit
+missions and trading-places, the Indians having since gone away. The
+iron-bound coast goes off, past Point de Monts, the Egg Islands and
+Anticosti, to the Strait of Belle Isle. This strait is named after a
+barren, treeless and desolate island at its entrance, about nine miles
+long, which has been most ironically named the Belle Isle, but the
+early mariners, nevertheless, called it the Isle of Demons. They did
+this because they heard, when passing, "a great clamor of men's
+voices, confused and inarticulate, such as you hear from a crowd at a
+fair or market-place." This is explained by the almost constant
+grinding of ice-floes in the neighborhood. The Mingan River, a
+beautiful stream where speckled trout are caught, comes down out of
+the northern mountains, opposite Anticosti Island, and is occasionally
+visited by enthusiastic anglers. This is the boundary of Labrador,
+which stretches almost indefinitely beyond, comprising the whole
+northeastern Canadian peninsula, an almost unexplored region of nearly
+three hundred square miles. It is described as a rocky plateau of
+Archæan rocks, highest on the northeast side and to the south, more or
+less wooded, and sloping down to lowlands towards Hudson Bay. It is a
+vast solitude, the rocks split and blasted by frosts, and the shores
+washed by the Atlantic waves, where reindeer, bears, wolves and a few
+Esquimaux wander. Its great scenic attraction is the Grand Falls. To
+the northward of the headwaters of Mingan River is a much larger
+stream, the Grand River, draining a multitude of lakes on the higher
+Labrador table-land, northeastward through Hamilton Inlet into the
+Atlantic. In 1861 a venturesome Scot of the Hudson Bay Company,
+prospecting through the region, first saw this magnificent cataract.
+For thirty years the falls were unvisited, but in 1891 an expedition
+was made to them, and they have been since again visited. The cataract
+is described as a magnificent spectacle, the river with full flow
+leaping from a rocky platform into a huge chasm, with a roar that can
+be heard twenty miles and an immense column of rainbow-illumined
+spray. The plunge is made after descending rapids for eight hundred
+feet, and is over a precipice two hundred feet wide, the fall being
+three hundred and sixteen feet. The water tumbles into a canyon five
+hundred feet deep and extending between high walls of rock for about
+twenty-five miles. The distant Labrador coasts on bay and ocean abound
+in seals and fish, and the adjacent seas are vast producers of codfish
+and herring. There are few visitors, however, excepting the hardy
+"Fishermen," of whom Whittier sings:
+
+     "Hurrah! the seaward breezes
+       Sweep down the bay amain;
+     Heave up, my lads, the anchor!
+       Run up the sail again!
+     Leave to the lubber landsmen
+       The rail-car and the steed;
+     The stars of heaven shall guide us,
+       The breath of heaven shall speed!
+
+     "Now, brothers, for the icebergs
+       Of frozen Labrador,
+     Floating spectral in the moonshine,
+       Along the low, black shore!
+     Where like snow the gannet's feathers
+       On Brador's rocks are shed,
+     And the noisy murr are flying,
+       Like bleak scuds, overhead;
+
+     "Where in mist the rock is hiding,
+       And the sharp reef lurks below,
+     And the white squall smites in summer,
+       And the autumn tempests blow;
+     Where, through gray and rolling vapor,
+       From evening unto morn,
+     A thousand boats are hailing,
+       Horn answering unto horn.
+
+     "Hurrah! for the Red Island,
+       With the white cross on its crown!
+     Hurrah! for Meccatina,
+       And its mountains bare and brown!
+     Where the Caribou's tall antlers
+       O'er the dwarf wood freely toss,
+     And the footstep of the Micmac
+       Has no sound upon the moss.
+
+     "Hurrah! Hurrah!--the west wind
+       Comes freshening down the bay,
+     The rising sails are filling,--
+       Give way, my lads, give way!
+     Leave the coward landsman clinging
+       To the dull earth, like a weed,--
+     The stars of heaven shall guide us,
+       The breath of heaven shall speed!"
+
+
+END OF VOLUME II.
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42309 ***