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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, America, Volume IV (of 6), by Joel Cook
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
-
-
-
-
-
-Title: America, Volume IV (of 6)
-
-
-Author: Joel Cook
-
-
-
-Release Date: March 11, 2013  [eBook #42309]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AMERICA, VOLUME IV (OF 6)***
-
-
-E-text prepared by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made
-available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org)
-
-
-
-Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
-      file which includes the original illustrations.
-      See 42309-h.htm or 42309-h.zip:
-      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42309/42309-h/42309-h.htm)
-      or
-      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42309/42309-h.zip)
-
-
-      Images of the original pages are available through
-      Internet Archive. See
-      https://archive.org/details/americaj04cookrich
-
-
-Transcriber's note:
-
-      Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
-
-      The Title Page and Table of Contents for this book refer
-      to it as Volume IV. The page and chapter numbering is
-      consistent with this being the second half of the previous
-      volume (whose title page says it is Volume III but whose
-      Table of Contents refers to it as Volume II.)
-
-      Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original
-      document have been preserved. Obvious typographical errors
-      have been corrected.
-
-
-
-
-
-  [Illustration: _Brandt Lake, Adirondacks_]
-
-
-_Edition Artistique_
-
-The World's Famous Places and Peoples
-
-AMERICA
-
-by
-
-JOEL COOK
-
-In Six Volumes
-
-Volume IV.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-Merrill and Baker
-New York      London
-
-THIS EDITION ARTISTIQUE OF THE WORLD'S FAMOUS PLACES AND PEOPLES IS
-LIMITED TO ONE THOUSAND NUMBERED AND REGISTERED COPIES, OF WHICH THIS
-COPY IS NO. 205
-
-Copyright, Henry T. Coates & Co., 1900
-
-
-
-
-LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
-
-VOLUME IV
-
-
-                                                         PAGE
-
-     BRANDT LAKE, ADIRONDACKS                  _Frontispiece_
-
-     MONUMENT TO JONATHAN EDWARDS, STOCKBRIDGE,
-     MASS.                                                256
-
-     OLD FORT TICONDEROGA                                 290
-
-     WATKINS GLEN                                         362
-
-     IN THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, ST. LAWRENCE                412
-
-     CHAUDIČRE FALLS, ST. LAWRENCE                        450
-
-     MONTCALM'S HEADQUARTERS, QUEBEC                      474
-
-
-
-
-A GLIMPSE OF THE BERKSHIRE HILLS.
-
-
-
-
-XI.
-
-A GLIMPSE OF THE BERKSHIRE HILLS.
-
-     Berkshire Magnificence -- Taghkanic Range -- Housatonic River
-     -- Autumnal Forest Tints -- Old Graylock -- Fitchburg Railroad
-     -- Hoosac Mountain and Tunnel -- Williamstown -- Williams
-     College -- North Adams -- Fort Massachusetts -- Adams --
-     Lanesboro -- Pittsfield -- Heart of Berkshire -- The
-     Color-Bearer -- Latimer Fugitive Slave Case -- Old Clock on the
-     Stairs -- Pontoosuc Lake -- Ononta Lake -- Berry Pond -- Lily
-     Bowl -- Ope of Promise -- Lenox -- Fanny Kemble -- Henry Ward
-     Beecher -- Mount Ephraim -- Yokun-town -- Stockbridge Bowl --
-     Lake Mahkeenac -- Nathaniel Hawthorne -- House of the Seven
-     Gables -- Oliver Wendell Holmes -- Lanier Hill -- Laurel Lake
-     -- Lee -- Stockbridge -- Field Hill -- John Sergeant --
-     Stockbridge Indians -- Jonathan Edwards -- Edwards Hall --
-     Sedgwick Family and Tombs -- Theodore Sedgwick -- Catherine
-     Maria Sedgwick -- Monument Mountain -- The Pulpit -- Ice Glen
-     -- Great Barrington -- William Cullen Bryant -- The Minister's
-     Wooing -- Kellogg Terrace -- Mrs. Hopkins-Searles -- Sheffield
-     -- Mount Everett -- Mount Washington -- Shays' Rebellion --
-     Boston Corner -- Salisbury -- Winterberg -- Bash-Bish Falls --
-     Housatonic Great Falls -- Litchfield -- Bantam Lake --
-     Birthplace of the Beechers -- Wolcott House -- Wolcottville --
-     John Brown -- Danbury -- Hat-making -- General Wooster --
-     Ansonia -- Derby -- Isaac Hull -- Robert G. Ingersoll's Tribute
-     -- Berkshire Hills and Homes.
-
-
-BERKSHIRE MAGNIFICENCE.
-
-IN ascending the Hudson River, its eastern hill-border for many miles
-was the blue and distant Taghkanic range, which encloses the
-attractive region of Berkshire. When the Indians from the Hudson
-Valley climbed over those hills they found to the eastward a
-beautiful stream, which they called the Housatonic, the "River beyond
-the Mountains." This picturesque river rises in the Berkshire hills,
-and flowing for one hundred and fifty miles southward by a winding
-course through Massachusetts and Connecticut, finally empties into
-Long Island Sound. Berkshire is the western county of Massachusetts, a
-region of exquisite loveliness that has no peer in New England,
-covering a surface about fifty miles long, extending entirely across
-the State, and about twenty miles wide. Two mountain ranges bound the
-intermediate valley, and these, with their outcroppings, make the
-noted Berkshire hills that have drawn the warmest praises from the
-greatest American poets and authors. Longfellow, Whittier, Bryant,
-Hawthorne, Beecher and many others have written their song and story,
-which are interwoven with our best literature. It is a region of
-mountain peaks and lakes, of lovely vales and delicious views, and the
-exhilarating air and pure waters, combined with the exquisite scenery,
-have made it constantly attractive. Beecher early wrote that it "is
-yet to be as celebrated as the Lake District of England, or the
-hill-country of Palestine." One writer tells of the "holiday-hills
-lifting their wreathed and crowned heads in the resplendent days of
-autumn;" another describes it as "a region of hill and valley,
-mountain and lake, beautiful rivers and laughing brooks." Miss
-Sedgwick, who journeyed thither on the railroad up the Westfield
-Valley from the Connecticut River, wrote, "We have entered Berkshire
-by a road far superior to the Appian Way. On every side are rich
-valleys and smiling hillsides, and, deep-set in their hollows, lovely
-lakes sparkle like gems." Fanny Kemble long lived at Lenox, in one of
-the most beautiful parts of the district, and she wished to be buried
-in its churchyard on the hill, saying, "I will not rise to trouble
-anyone if they will let me sleep here. I will only ask to be permitted
-once in a while to raise my head and look out upon the glorious
-scene."
-
-To these Berkshire hills the visitors go to see the brilliant autumnal
-tints of the American forests in their greatest perfection. When
-copious autumn rains have made the foliage luxuriant, much will remain
-vigorous after parts have been turned by frosts. This puts green into
-the Berkshire panorama to enhance the olives of the birch, the grayish
-pinks of the ash, the scarlets of the maple, the deep reds of the oak
-and the bright yellows of the poplar. When in such a combination,
-these make a magnificent contrast of brilliant leaf-coloring, and
-while it lasts, the mantle of purple and gold, of bright flame and
-resplendent green, with the almost dazzling yellows that cover the
-autumnal mountain slopes, give one of the richest feasts of color ever
-seen. This magnificence of the Berkshire autumn coloring inspired
-Beecher to write, "Have the evening clouds, suffused with sunset,
-dropped down and become fixed into solid forms? Have the rainbows that
-followed autumn storms faded upon the mountains and left their mantles
-there? What a mighty chorus of colors do the trees roll down the
-valleys, up the hillsides, and over the mountains!" From Williamstown
-to Salisbury the region stretches, the Taghkanic range bounding it on
-the west, and the Hoosac Mountain on the east. The northern guardian
-is double-peaked Old Graylock, the monarch of the Berkshire hills, in
-the Taghkanic range, the scarred surfaces, exposed in huge bare places
-far up their sides, showing the white marble formation of these hills.
-
-
-WILLIAMSTOWN TO PITTSFIELD.
-
-The Fitchburg railroad, coming from Troy on the Hudson to Boston,
-crosses the northern part of the district and pierces the Hoosac
-Mountain by a famous tunnel, nearly five miles long, which cost
-Massachusetts $16,000,000, the greatest railway tunnel in the United
-States. This railroad follows the charming Deerfield River Valley up
-to the mountain, from the east, and it seeks the Hudson northwestward
-down the Hoosac River, the "place of stones," passing under the shadow
-of Old Graylock, rising in solid grandeur over thirty-five hundred
-feet, the highest Massachusetts mountain, at the northwest corner of
-the State. A tower on the top gives a view all around the horizon,
-with attractive glimpses of the winding Hoosac and Housatonic
-Valleys. Nearby is Williamstown, the seat of Williams College, with
-four hundred students, its buildings being the chief feature of the
-village. President Garfield was a graduate of this College, and
-William Cullen Bryant for some time a student, writing much of his
-early poetry here. Five miles eastward is the manufacturing town of
-North Adams, with twenty thousand people, in the narrow valley of the
-Hoosac, whose current turns its mill-wheels. A short distance down the
-Hoosac, at a road crossing, was the site of old Fort Massachusetts,
-the "Thermopylć of New England" in the early French and Indian War,
-where, in 1746, its garrison of twenty-two men held the fort two days
-against an attacking force of nine hundred, of whom they killed
-forty-seven and wounded many more, only yielding when every grain of
-powder was gone.
-
-Journeying southward up the Hoosac through its picturesque valley, the
-narrow, winding stream turns many mills, while "Old Greylock,
-cloud-girdled on his purple throne," stands guardian at its northern
-verge. There are various villages, mostly in decadence, many of their
-people having migrated, and the mills have to supplement water-power
-with steam, the drouths being frequent. Of the little town of Adams on
-the Hoosac, Susan B. Anthony was the most famous inhabitant, and in
-Lanesboro "Josh Billings," then named H. W. Shaw, was born in 1818,
-before he wandered away to become an auctioneer and humorist. The
-head of the Hoosac is a reservoir lake, made to store its waters that
-they may better serve the mills below, and almost embracing its
-sources are the branching head-streams of the Housatonic, which flows
-to the southward. This part of the intervale, being the most elevated,
-is a region of sloughs and lakes, from which the watershed tapers in
-both directions. Upon this high plateau, more than a thousand feet
-above the tidal level, is located the county-seat of Berkshire,
-Pittsfield, named in honor of William Pitt, the elder, in 1761. The
-Boston and Albany Railroad crosses the Berkshires through the town,
-and then climbing around the Hoosac range goes off down Westfield
-River to the Connecticut at Springfield. The Public Green of
-Pittsfield, located, as in all New England towns, in its centre, is
-called the "Heart of Berkshire." Upon it stands Launt Thompson's noted
-bronze statue of the "Color-Bearer," cast from cannon given by
-Congress,--a spirited young soldier in fatigue uniform, holding aloft
-the flag. This statue is reproduced on the Gettysburg battlefield, and
-it is the monument of five officers and ninety men of Pittsfield
-killed in the Civil War. At the dedication of this statue was read
-Whittier's eloquent lyric, "Massachusetts to Virginia," which was
-inspired by the "Latimer fugitive slave case" in 1842. An owner from
-Norfolk claimed the fugitive in Boston, and was awarded him by the
-courts, but the decision caused so much excitement that the slave's
-emancipation was purchased for $400, the owner gladly taking the money
-rather than pursue the case further. Thus said Whittier:
-
-     "A voice from lips whereon the coal from Freedom's shrine hath been
-     Thrilled as but yesterday the breasts of Berkshire's mountain men;
-     The echoes of that solemn voice are sadly lingering still
-     In all our sunny valleys, on every wind-swept hill.
-
-     "And sandy Barnstable rose up, wet with the salt sea-spray;
-     And Bristol sent her answering shout down Narragansett Bay;
-     Along the broad Connecticut old Hampden felt the thrill,
-     And the cheer of Hampshire's woodmen swept down from Holyoke Hill:
-
-     "'No slave-hunt in our borders--no pirate on our strand!
-     No fetters in the Bay State--no slave upon our land!'"
-
-Bordering this famous Green are the churches and public buildings of
-Pittsfield, while not far away a spacious and comfortable mansion is
-pointed out which for many years was the summer home of Longfellow,
-and the place where he found "The Old Clock on the Stairs"--the clock
-is said to still remain in the house. The Pittsfield streets lead out
-in every direction to lovely scenes on mountain slopes or the banks of
-lakes. The Agassiz Association for the study of natural history has
-its headquarters in Pittsfield, there being a thousand local chapters
-in various parts of the world. This pleasant region was the Indian
-domain of Pontoosuc, "the haunt of the winter deer," and this is the
-name of one of the prettiest adjacent lakes just north of the town on
-the Williamstown road. Ononta is another of exquisite contour, west of
-the town, a romantic lakelet elevated eighteen hundred feet, which
-gives Pittsfield its water supply, and has an attractive park upon its
-shores. On the mountain to the northwest is Berry Pond, its margin of
-silvery sand strewn with delicate fibrous mica and snowy quartz. Here,
-in various directions, are the "Opes," as the beautiful vista views
-are called, along the vales opening through and among the hills. One
-of these, to the southward, overlooks the lakelet of the "Lily Bowl."
-Here lived Herman Melville, the rover of the seas, when he wrote his
-sea-novels. The chief of these vales is to the northwest of
-Pittsfield, the "Ope of Promise," giving a view over the "Promised
-Land." We are told that this tract was named with grim Yankee humor,
-because the original grant of the title to the land was "long
-promised, long delayed."
-
-
-LENOX.
-
-A fine road, with exquisite views, leads a few miles southward to
-Lenox, the "gem among the mountains," as Professor Silliman called it,
-standing upon a high ridge at twelve hundred feet elevation, and
-rising far above the general floor of the valley, the mountain ridges
-bounding it upon either hand, being about five miles apart, and having
-pleasant intervales between. There is a population of about three
-thousand, but summer and autumn sojourners greatly enlarge this, when
-throngs of happy pilgrims from the large cities come here, most of
-them having their own villas. The crests and slopes of the hills round
-about Lenox are crowned by mansions, many of them costly and imposing,
-adding to the charms of the landscape. At the head of the main street,
-the highest point of the village, stands the old Puritan
-Congregational Church, with its little white wooden belfry and a view
-all around the compass. This primitive church recalls many memories of
-the good old times, before fashion sought out Lenox and worshipped at
-its shrine:
-
-     "They had rigid manners and homespun breeches
-             In the good old times;
-     They hunted Indians and hung up witches
-             In the good old times;
-     They toiled and moiled from sun to sun,
-     And they counted sinful all kinds of fun,
-     And they went to meeting armed with a gun,
-             In the good old times."
-
-Far to the northward, seen from this old church, beyond many swelling
-knolls and ridges, rises Old Graylock, looking like a recumbent
-elephant, as the clouds overhang its twin rounded peaks, thirty miles
-away. From the church door, facing the south and looking over and
-beyond the village, there is such a panorama that even without the
-devotion of the inspired Psalmist, one might prefer to stand in the
-door of the Lord's house rather than dwell in tent, tabernacle or
-mansion. This glorious view is over two valleys, one on either hand,
-their bordering ridges covered with the fairest foliage. To the
-distant southwest, where the Housatonic Valley stretches away in
-winding courses, the stream flowing in wayward fashion across the
-view, there are many ridgy hills, finally fading into the horizon
-beyond the Connecticut boundary. The immediate hillside is covered
-with the churchyard graves, and then slopes down into the village,
-with its surrounding galaxy of villas, among which little lakes glint
-in the sunlight. It is no wonder that Fanny Kemble, who lived here at
-intervals for many years, desired to be buried at this church door,
-for she could not have found a fairer resting-place, though Henry Ward
-Beecher, another summer sojourner, in his enthusiasm expressed the
-hope that in her life to come she would "behold one so much fairer
-that this scenic beauty shall fade to a shadow."
-
-The earliest settlements in this part of the Berkshires, then a
-dangerous Indian frontier, were in 1750; and a few years later, when
-peace was restored, lands were bought and two towns started, one
-called Mount Ephraim and the other Yokun-town, after an Indian chief.
-The Duke of Richmond, whose family name was Lenox, had taken strong
-ground in favor of the American colonists, and in gratitude these
-towns, when subsequently incorporated, were called, the former
-Richmond, and the latter Lenox. The duke's coat-of-arms hangs upon the
-wall in the village Library of Lenox. In 1787 Lenox was made the
-county-seat of Berkshire, so continuing for eighty-one years, and its
-present church was built in 1806, replacing an older one. It began to
-be a summer resort at the beginning of the nineteenth century, and
-became fashionable after Fanny Kemble, then the great celebrity,
-visited it about 1838, and stopped at the "Berkshire Coffee House,"
-setting the fashion of early rising by requiring her horse to be
-saddled and bridled and promptly at the door at seven o'clock in the
-morning, for a daily gallop of ten or twelve miles before breakfast.
-Lenox has now developed into so much wealth, fashion and luxury, that
-it is known as "the Newport of the Berkshires." Its one long village
-main street contains the Library and hotels, and in all directions
-pleasant roads lead out to the hills and vales around, which are
-developed in every way that wealth and art can master. The broad and
-charming grass-bordered main street, under its rows of stately
-overarching elms, leads southward down the hill among the villas. The
-deep adjacent valleys, with their many and varied knolls and slopes,
-give such grand outlooks that dwellings can be placed almost anywhere
-to advantage, most of them being spacious and impressive, their
-elaborate architecture adding to the attractions.
-
-
-THE STOCKBRIDGE BOWL.
-
-Southward from Lenox is the outer elevated rim of the "Stockbridge
-Bowl," a deep basin among the hills, and one can look down within this
-grand amphitheatre upon Lake Mahkeenac nestling there, with the rocky
-and chaotic top of the distant Monument Mountain closing the view
-beyond. There are attractive villas perched upon all the knolls and
-terraces surrounding this famous "Bowl," and one modest older mansion
-overlooks it among so much modern magnificence--Nathaniel Hawthorne's
-"House of the Seven Gables," the remains of which are still shown.
-Here he lived for a few years in a quaint little red wooden house,
-looking as if built in bits, and having a glorious view for miles away
-across the lake. Mrs. Hawthorne once described this house in a letter
-to her mother as "the reddest little thing, which looks like the
-smallest of ten-foot houses." Nearby is the farm where he got milk,
-the route to which he called the "milky-way." They have named the road
-leading out from Lenox to this house, in his honor, "Hawthorne
-Street." The view over the lake from its back windows was so
-enchanting that he was very proud of it, and Mrs. Hawthorne records
-that one day Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes, who then lived near
-Pittsfield, rode down to make a call. They insisted on his coming in
-"to get a peep at the lake through the boudoir window," while
-Hawthorne himself held the doctor's horse at the door. The humorist,
-on returning, acknowledged the kindness with a pleasantry, saying, "Is
-there another man in all America that ever had such honor as to have
-the author of 'The Scarlet Letter' hold his horse?"
-
-The rides around the "Stockbridge Bowl" are delicious. Over the hills
-they go, up and down the terraces widely encircling the grand basin,
-now under arching canopies of elms, then through the forest, past
-little lakelets, with fascinating views in all directions, and always
-having the placid lake for a central gem down in the "Bowl." There are
-villas on all the points of vantage--red-topped and white-topped--the
-princely palaces of wealthy bankers and merchants. One of the most
-noted of these villas on Lanier Hill, high above the "Bowl" and the
-surrounding vales, gives opportunity to overlook several lakes, and
-study the rock-ribbed structure of the charming region, thrust up in
-crags and layers of white marble. The walls and stonework of the
-buildings are chiefly white, contrasting prettily with the foliage and
-greensward. Here is seen the Laurel Lake, and beyond is the village of
-Lee, nestling in the deep valley along the winding Housatonic, its
-tall white church spire rising among the trees, yet far down among the
-surrounding hills. All the adjacent slopes are covered with villas,
-and the marble-quarries and paper-mills have made the town's fortune.
-There are about four thousand people, and the Lee quarries are among
-the most noted in America. The pure white marble, cut out of deep
-fissures alongside the Housatonic, has built many famous structures,
-including the two largest buildings in the country, the Capitol at
-Washington and the Philadelphia City Hall, and also St. Patrick's
-Cathedral in New York. Lee was named in the Revolution, after "Light
-Horse Harry" of Virginia.
-
-
-STOCKBRIDGE AND ITS INDIANS.
-
-Across an intervening ridge beyond the "Bowl" is the village of
-Stockbridge. The wayward Housatonic encircles Lee, and flows athwart
-the valley towards the west, thus making a meadow on which this
-pleasant settlement stands. In the autumn, turkeys strut about, and
-pumpkins lie profusely in the fields, preparing for the annual New
-England feast of roast turkey and pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving Day--the
-great Puritan holiday that has spread over the country. Monument
-Mountain and Bear Mountain to the southward guard the smaller glen
-into which the highway leads, with Stockbridge scattered through it
-upon the winding river banks. This region was settled earlier than
-Lenox, the first colonists from the Connecticut Valley venturing out
-upon the Indian trail across the Hoosac range in 1725 to take up a
-grant in the Southern Berkshires. They found here, on the river bank,
-the Mohican Indian village of Housatonnuc, and established relations
-of the greatest friendliness. Field's Hill overlooks the town, where
-Cyrus W. Field, of Atlantic cable memory, and his brothers were born.
-Stockbridge has been described as one of "the delicious surprises of
-Berkshire," quiet and seemingly almost asleep beneath its embowering
-meadow elms under the rim of the hills upon the river-bordered plain.
-Upon the wide green street stands a solid square stone tower, with a
-clock and chimes, bearing the inscription, "This memorial marks the
-spot where stood the little church in which John Sergeant preached to
-the Indians in 1739." This handsome tower, standing in front of the
-Congregational Church, was the gift of David Dudley Field to his
-birthplace.
-
-These Indians called themselves the Muhhekanews, or "the people of the
-great moving waters," and Sergeant was sent as a missionary among
-them, laboring fifteen years. They were afterwards called the
-Stockbridge Indians. Jonathan Edwards, the renowned metaphysician, who
-had differences with the church at Northampton, succeeded Sergeant,
-and came out into the Berkshire wilderness, living among these Indians
-and preaching by the aid of interpreters. This great pastor lived
-happily at Stockbridge for six years on an annual salary of $35, with
-$10 extra paid in fuel, and in one of the oldest houses of the village
-wrote his celebrated work on _The Freedom of the Will_. He left
-Stockbridge to become President of Princeton College in New Jersey.
-The Stockbridge Indians had a wonderful tradition. They said that a
-great people crossed deep waters from a far-distant continent in the
-northwest, and by many pilgrimages marched to the seashore and the
-valley of the Hudson. Here they built cities and lived until a famine
-scattered them, and many died. Wandering afterwards for years in quest
-of a precarious living, they lost their arts and manners, and part of
-them settled in the village on the Housatonic, where the Puritans
-found them. They gladly received Sergeant's ministry, and he baptized
-over a hundred of them, translating the New Testament and part of the
-Old into their language. When Edwards came, in 1751, there were one
-hundred and fifty Indian families, and but six English families. Many
-were in the Continental army in the Revolution, and a company of these
-Indians won distinction in the battle of White Plains, near New York.
-They were dispersed in later days, some going to Western New York and
-others to the far West; but on the slope of a hill adjoining the river
-remains their old graveyard, a rugged weather-worn shaft surmounting a
-stone pile to mark it.
-
-  [Illustration: _Monument to Jonathan Edwards, Stockbridge, Mass._]
-
-Upon the green village main street is Edwards' little old wooden
-house, having three small windows above the ponderous door. It is now
-called "Edwards Hall," and a granite obelisk out in front, erected by
-his descendants in 1871, preserves the memory of the great divine.
-Over opposite is the venerable Sedgwick Mansion, the home of the
-famous Sedgwick family. Farther up the street is the Cemetery, where
-the most interesting feature is the enclosure set apart for their
-tombs, the graves being arranged in circles around the central tomb of
-Judge Theodore Sedgwick, the founder. He was a native of Hartford,
-born in 1746, migrated to Sheffield in Berkshire, and finally settled
-at Stockbridge after the Revolution, becoming one of the leading
-statesmen of New England, prominent in the old Federal party, Member
-of Congress and Senator from Massachusetts, and Speaker of the House.
-He was subsequently made Judge of the Massachusetts Supreme Court,
-dying in office in 1813. His children and descendants surround his
-grave, among them his daughter, the distinguished authoress, Catherine
-Maria Sedgwick, born at Stockbridge in 1789, who died in 1867.
-
-A few miles to the southeast is Monument Mountain, the Indian
-"Fisher's Nest," one of the most curious and attractive of the
-Berkshire hills on account of its position and form, although the
-summit is not very high, less than thirteen hundred feet. Its rock
-formations are fine, being of white quartz, and on the eastern side is
-a detached cliff with a huge pinnacle nearly a hundred feet high,
-known as the "Pulpit." Hawthorne greatly admired this mountain, at
-which he looked from his boudoir window across the lake, and in its
-autumn hues he said it appeared like "a headless sphinx wrapped in a
-rich Persian shawl," seen across a valley that was "a vast basin
-filled with sunshine as with wine." The mountain received its modern
-name from a cairn found on the summit, the tradition telling of a
-mythical Indian maiden who got crossed in love, and as a consequence
-jumped off the topmost cliff, being dashed to pieces. Her tribe, when
-they passed that way, each added a stone to the pile, thus building
-the cairn. There are many stones thrown all around this peculiarly
-rugged mountain, which is piled up with white marble crags in a region
-where abrupt peaks are seen almost everywhere. In among these cliffs
-is the Ice Glen, a cold and narrow cleft where ice may be found in
-midsummer, it is so secluded from sunshine. The appearance of Monument
-Mountain made a strong impression on William Cullen Bryant, who thus
-described it:
-
-                         "To the north, a path
-     Conducts you up the narrow battlements.
-     Steep is the western side, shaggy and wild,
-     With many trees and pinnacles of flint,
-     And many a haughty crag. But to the east
-     Sheer to the vale go down the bare old cliffs,
-     Huge pillars that in middle heaven uprear
-     Their weather-beaten capitals--here dark
-     With the thick moss of centuries, and there
-     Of chalky whiteness, where the thunderbolt
-     Hath smitten them."
-
-
-GREAT BARRINGTON.
-
-To the southward farther, the widening Housatonic circles about the
-valley, bordered with willows and alders, and hidden frequently by
-cliffs and forests. Hills terrace the horizon, with mountain peaks
-among them. Through the gorges the road follows down the circling
-river, which constantly turns more mill-wheels, its waters pouring
-over frequent white marble dams and bubbling upon rapids, with steep
-tree-clad slopes adorning the banks and making attractive views.
-Monument Mountain's long ridge gradually falls off, and the intervale
-broadens as the Housatonic winds in wider channel to Great Barrington.
-This is another typical New England village, embowered by the
-stateliest of elms, spreading along its broad green-bordered street,
-with a galaxy of hills encircling the intervale in which it stands,
-and lofty Mount Everett rising grandly over its southwestern verge. To
-the eastward is the special hill of Great Barrington, giving the town
-its name. Beecher described it as "one of those places which one never
-enters without wishing never to leave." William Cullen Bryant for
-several years, ending with 1825, was the town clerk of Great
-Barrington, and the records of that time are in his handwriting; his
-house is still preserved. For a quarter of a century Dr. Samuel
-Hopkins lived here, the hero of Mrs. Stowe's novel, the _Minister's
-Wooing_. On the lowlands by the river is the costliest country-house
-in the Berkshires, Kellogg Terrace, built by Mrs. Hopkins-Searles, a
-magnificent structure of blue and white marbles, with red-tiled roofs,
-and most elaborately fitted up, upon which $1,500,000 was expended.
-It is carefully concealed from view from the village street by a
-massive stone wall and well-arranged trees. This mansion principally
-illustrates the affection the New England emigrant always bears for
-the home of youth. Mark Hopkins went away from the Berkshires to
-California to make a fortune and die. His childless widow, a native of
-Great Barrington, had $30,000,000, and came back to live on the farm
-where she had spent her childhood. She determined to rear a memorial,
-and built this French-Gothic palace of the native Berkshire marbles,
-exceeding at the time, in costliness and magnificence, any other
-private dwelling outside of New York City. As the building gradually
-grew, she became so enamored of it and its designer that she took the
-architect, Mr. Searles, for a second husband. Then she died, and he
-became its possessor. Yet it cannot be seen, except by climbing up a
-high hill to the eastward, where one can look down upon its red-tiled
-roofs on the low-lying meadow almost by the river side. The
-Congregational Church of Great Barrington has the Hopkins Memorial
-Manse, regarded as the finest parsonage in the United States, which
-cost $100,000 to build.
-
-Following farther down the Housatonic, the village of Sheffield,
-another domain of marble quarries, is reached, with the same broad,
-quiet, green-bordered and elm-shaded village street, and famed for
-having furnished the marble to build Girard College and its
-magnificent colonnade at Philadelphia. The "Sheffield Elm" in the
-southern part of the town, a noble tree of great age, was given fame
-by the "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table." To the westward is the broad
-and solid mass of Mount Everett, often called Mount Washington, the
-southern outpost of the Taghkanic range, and the sentinel guarding the
-southwestern corner of Massachusetts, as Old Graylock guards the
-northwest corner. This mountain rises over twenty-six hundred feet,
-the "Dome of the Taghkanics." From its summit can be surveyed to the
-westward the valley of the Hudson, while beyond, at the horizon, the
-distant Catskills hang, in the words of Dr. Hitchcock, "like the
-curtains of the sky." The Connecticut boundary is not far away, and
-beyond it, southward, are successive ranges of hills. The Housatonic
-winds through productive valleys, with herds quietly grazing, and
-tobacco and other crops growing. This is in the town of Mount
-Washington, which was part of the great Livingston Manor that
-stretched in front of the mountain over to the Hudson, and the first
-settlers were Dutch, who came up from that valley. This region was the
-scene of the close of Shays' Rebellion in 1787, the insurgents who had
-convulsed western Massachusetts, and attacked and plundered
-Stockbridge, being chased down here by the troops, and a considerable
-number killed and wounded before they were dispersed.
-
-
-TO SALISBURY AND BEYOND.
-
-The southwestern corner of Massachusetts, projecting westward into New
-York outside the Connecticut boundary, is known as Boston Corner. To
-the southward, in the northwestern corner of Connecticut, is
-Salisbury, where the Taghkanic range falls away into lower hills.
-Beecher described this country as a constant succession of hills
-swelling into mountains, and of mountains flowing down into hills.
-This is a quiet region, formerly a producer of iron ores, and it was
-early settled by the Dutch, who came over from the Hudson in 1720.
-They were a timid race, however, fearing the rigors of climate, and,
-coming thus to the edge of what looked like an Alpine land of
-dreariness beyond, they would not venture farther into the forbidding
-hills. The mountainous region to the north and east they inscribed on
-their maps as a large white vacant space, which they coolly named
-"Winterberg." The township has two noted ravines, solitary, rugged and
-attractive, and both containing cascades. In one to the westward is
-the celebrated Bash-Bish Falls, and the other to the northward is
-Sage's Ravine, just beyond it being Norton's Falls. The Bash-Bish is
-said to have got its name in imitation of running, falling waters. It
-descends nearly five hundred feet in cataracts and rapids, the finest
-cascades in the Berkshires, and then flows out westward to the Hudson.
-The Housatonic, going southward through Salisbury, plunges down its
-Great Falls over rocky ledges for sixty feet descent, making a
-tremendous noise and a fine display. To the eastward of the Housatonic
-Valley, at an elevation of eleven hundred feet, on a broad plateau, is
-Litchfield, consisting chiefly of two broad, tree-shaded streets
-crossing at right angles, the chief buildings fronting on the central
-village Green. On the southwestern outskirts is Bantam Lake, the
-largest in Connecticut, covering a little over a square mile of
-surface. The most famous house in Litchfield, which has been moved,
-however, from its original location, is unpretentious, the old-time
-wooden mansion in which Rev. Lyman Beecher lived when pastor here,
-from 1810 to 1826, and where was born the famous authoress, Harriet
-Beecher, in 1812, who married Rev. Calvin E. Stowe, and the famous
-preacher, Henry Ward Beecher, in 1813. In the Wolcott House at
-Litchfield was born Oliver Wolcott, Secretary of the Treasury, he and
-his father both having been Connecticut Governors. To this house was
-brought, in the Revolution, the leaden statue of King George III.,
-which stood on the Bowling Green of New York, to be melted into
-bullets. These were the favorite Indian hunting-grounds of Bantam
-around the lake, and when Litchfield was first settled, about 1720,
-the village was surrounded by a palisade, lest the savages should
-return to their coveted region to take forcible possession. Litchfield
-for a half-century after the Revolution had the most noted law school
-in America. To the northward, at Wolcottville, where there are now
-large factories, lived Captain John Brown, a noted Revolutionary
-soldier, and here was born in 1800 his grandson, "Old John Brown of
-Osawatomie."
-
-Yet farther southward, but still among the hills, west of the
-Housatonic Valley and near the New York boundary, is Danbury, famous
-for its hat-factories, a town of about twenty thousand people. The
-first hat-factory in America was opened at Danbury in 1780 by Zadoc
-Benedict, three men making three hats a day. The factories now turn
-out several thousand a day. In May, 1777, the Hessians attacked
-Danbury and destroyed a large amount of the Revolutionary army
-supplies, and it is recorded of the tragic event that Danbury was
-"ankle-deep in pork-fat." On that memorable occasion it is said that
-when the raiders were advancing up a hill a bold and reckless Yankee
-farmer rode to its crest and shouted loudly, "Halt, the whole
-universe; break off by kingdoms!" This demonstration alarmed the
-Hessians, who thought a formidable force coming, and they halted to
-defend themselves, deploying skirmishers and getting up their cannon
-to the front. It was in an attack upon these raiders near Danbury that
-General Wooster was mortally wounded, and the Danbury Cemetery
-contains his monument. The constantly broadening Housatonic River
-winds among the Connecticut hills in its steady course southeastward
-to its confluence with the Naugatuck, a smaller stream coming down
-through a pretty valley from the north, its Indian name meaning "one
-tree," referring to an ancient tree on its banks which was a landmark
-for the aborigines. The Naugatuck tumbles over a waterfall in the
-Indian domain of Paugussett, furnishing power for the mills of
-Ansonia, noted for its clocks. Near the confluence of the rivers is
-the great Housatonic dam, six hundred feet long and twenty-three feet
-high, constructed at a cost of $500,000 for the manufacturers of
-Derby, who make pins, tacks, stockings, pianos and many other
-articles. Commodore Isaac Hull, born in 1773, was the most
-distinguished native of Derby, the commander of the frigate
-"Constitution" when she captured the "Guerriere" in 1812. Then in
-stately course the broad Housatonic flows southward, to finally empty
-into Long Island Sound. The beauties of the Berkshire hills, so much
-of which are made by the Housatonic's wayward course, have been the
-theme of universal admiration, and their praises abound in our best
-American literature. It was after a visit there that Robert G.
-Ingersoll made his happy phrases in contrasting country and city life:
-
-"It is no advantage to live in a great city, where poverty degrades
-and failure brings despair. The fields are lovelier than paved
-streets, and the great forests than walls of brick. Oaks and elms are
-more poetic than steeples and chimneys. In the country is the idea of
-home. There you see the rising and setting sun; you become acquainted
-with the stars and clouds. The constellations are your friends. You
-hear the rain on the roof and listen to the rhythmic sighing of the
-winds. You are thrilled by the resurrection called Spring, touched and
-saddened by Autumn, the grace and poetry of death. Every field is a
-picture, a landscape; every landscape a poem; every flower a tender
-thought; and every forest a fairy-land. In the country you preserve
-your identity, your personality. There you are an aggregation of
-atoms, but in the city you are only an atom of an aggregation."
-
-The historian of the Berkshires, Clark W. Bryan of Great Barrington,
-thus poetically describes the Berkshire hills and homes:
-
-     "Between where Hudson's waters flow
-       Adown from gathering streams,
-     And where the clear Connecticut,
-       In lengthened beauty gleams--
-     Where run bright rills, and stand high rocks,--
-       Where health and beauty comes,
-     And peace and happiness abides,
-       Rest Berkshire's Hills and Homes.
-
-     "The Hoosac winds its tortuous course,
-       The Housatonic sweeps
-     Through fields of living loveliness,
-       As on its course it keeps.
-     Old Saddleback stands proudly by,
-       Among Taconic's peaks,
-     And rugged mountain Monument
-       Of Indian legend speaks.
-
-     "Mount Washington with polished brow,
-       Green in the summer days,
-     Or white with winter's driving storms,
-       Or with autumn's flame ablaze,
-     Looms up across the southern sky,
-       In native beauty dressed--
-     The home of Bash-Bish, weird and old,
-       Anear the mountain's crest.
-
-     "And still each streamlet runs its course,
-       And still each mountain stands,
-     While Berkshire's sons and daughters roam
-       Through home and foreign lands;
-     But though they roam, or though they rest,
-       A thought spontaneous comes,
-     Of love and veneration for
-       Our Berkshire Hills and Homes."
-
-
-
-
-THE ADIRONDACKS AND THEIR ATTENDANT LAKES.
-
-
-
-
-XII.
-
-THE ADIRONDACKS AND THEIR ATTENDANT LAKES.
-
-     The Great North Woods -- Mount Marcy or Tahawus -- Schroon Lake
-     -- Raquette River -- View from Mount Marcy -- Door of the
-     Country -- Lake George -- Horicon, the Silvery Water -- Isaac
-     Jogues -- Sir William Johnson -- Lake George Scenery and
-     Islands -- Sabbath Day Point -- Lake George Battles and
-     Massacres -- The Bloody Morning Scout -- Colonel Ephraim
-     Williams -- Baron Dieskau Defeated and Captured -- Fort William
-     Henry -- Fort Carillon -- General Montcalm -- Massacre at Fort
-     William Henry -- Alexandria -- Ticonderoga -- Abercrombie's
-     Expedition -- General Lord Howe -- Rogers' Slide -- Howe Killed
-     and Abercrombie Defeated -- Amherst's Expedition -- Carillon
-     Captured -- Fort Ticonderoga -- Conquest of Canada -- Ethan
-     Allen Captures Ticonderoga -- Lake Champlain -- Samuel de
-     Champlain Explores It -- Defeats the Iroquois -- Crown Point --
-     Port Henry -- Bulwagga Mountain and Bay -- Fort St. Frederic --
-     Westport -- Split Rock -- Rock Reggio -- Port Kent -- Vermont
-     -- The Green Mountains -- Bennington -- John Stark -- Rutland
-     -- Killington Peak -- Mount Mansfield -- Forehead, Nose and
-     Chin -- Camel's Hump -- Maple Sugar -- Burlington -- University
-     of Vermont -- Ethan Allen's Grave -- Winooski River --
-     Smuggler's Notch -- Montpelier -- Hessian Cannon -- St. Albans
-     -- Ausable Chasm -- Alice Falls -- Birmingham Falls -- Grand
-     Flume -- Bluff Point -- Lower Saranac River -- Plattsburg --
-     Fredenburgh's Ghost -- McDonough's Victory -- Chateaugay Forest
-     -- Clinton Prison -- Rouse's Point -- Richelieu River --
-     Chambly Rapids -- Entering the Adirondacks -- Raven Pass --
-     Bouquet River -- Elizabethtown -- Mount Hurricane -- Giant of
-     the Valley -- Ausable River -- Flats of Keene -- Mount Dix --
-     Noon Mark Mountain -- Ausable Lakes -- Adirondack Mountain
-     Reserve -- Mount Colvin -- Verplanck Colvin -- Long Pond
-     Mountain -- Pitch-Off Mountain -- Cascade Lakes -- Mount
-     Mclntyre -- Wallface -- Western Ausable River -- Plains of
-     Abraham -- North Elba -- Whiteface -- Old John Brown's Farm and
-     Grave -- Lake Placid -- Mirror Lake -- Eye of the Adirondacks
-     -- Upper Saranac River -- Harrietstown -- Lower Saranac Lake --
-     Ampersand -- Canoeing and Carrying -- Round Lake -- Upper
-     Saranac Lake -- Big Clear Pond -- St. Regis Mountain and River
-     -- St. Germain Carry -- St. Regis Lakes -- Paul Smith's --
-     Raquette River and Lake -- Camp Pine Knot -- Blue Mountain and
-     Lake -- Eagle Lake -- Fulton Lakes -- Forked Lakes -- Long Lake
-     -- Tupper Lakes -- Mountains, Woods and Waters -- The Forest
-     Hymn.
-
-
-THE GREAT NORTH WOODS.
-
-The Adirondack wilderness covers almost the whole of Northern New
-York. This region is an elevated plateau of about fifteen thousand
-square miles, crossed by mountain ranges. It stretches from Canada
-down almost to the Mohawk Valley, and from Lake Champlain northwest to
-the St. Lawrence, in rugged surface, the plateau from which its peaks
-arise being elevated about two thousand feet above the sea. Five
-nearly parallel mountain ranges cross it from southwest to northeast,
-terminating in great promontories upon the shores of Lake Champlain.
-The most westerly is the Clinton or Adirondack range, beginning at the
-pass of Little Falls upon the Mohawk River and crossing the wilderness
-to the bold Trembleau Point upon the lake at Port Kent. This range
-contains the highest peaks, the loftiest of them, Mount Marcy or
-Tahawus, rising fifty-three hundred and forty-five feet, while Mounts
-McIntyre, Whiteface, Seward and several others nearby approximate five
-thousand feet. A multitude of peaks of various heights are scattered
-through the region, over five hundred being enumerated. They are all
-wild and savage, and were covered by the primeval forests until the
-ruthless wood-chopper began his destructive incursions. The stony
-summits of the higher mountains rise above all vegetation, excepting
-mosses and dwarf Alpine plants. The geological formation is mainly
-granitic and other primary rocks. In the valleys are more than a
-thousand beautiful lakes of varying sizes, generally at fifteen
-hundred to two thousand feet elevation, Schroon Lake, the largest,
-being the lowest, elevated eight hundred and seven feet, while the
-highest is "The Tear of the Clouds," at forty-three hundred and twenty
-feet elevation, one of the Hudson River sources. Some of these lakes
-are quite large, while others cover only a few acres, and most of them
-are lovely and romantic in everything but their prosaic names; and
-their scenery, with the surrounding mountains and overspreading
-forests, is unsurpassed. The labyrinth of lakes is connected by
-intricate systems of rivulets which go plunging down myriads of
-cascades, their outlets discharging into several well-known rivers,
-the chief being the Hudson. The largest and finest stream within the
-district is the Raquette River, rising in Raquette Lake and flowing
-westward and northward to the St. Lawrence. Around it, in the olden
-time, the Indians gathered on snowshoes to hunt the moose--the
-snowshoe being the French Canadian's "raquette," and hence the name.
-The Ausable and Saranac pass through romantic gorges and flow
-northeastward to Lake Champlain. This "Great North Woods," as it was
-called by our ancestors, is being so greatly despoiled of its forests,
-that to preserve the water supply of the Hudson, as well as to protect
-its scenic attractions, New York is making a State Park to include
-four thousand square miles, of which nearly one-half is now secured,
-having cost about $1,000,000. Railways are gradually extending into
-the district; it is becoming dotted with summer hotels and
-camping-grounds; and is one of the most popular American pleasure
-resorts.
-
-The highest peak, Mount Marcy, has a summit which is a bare rock of
-about four hundred by one hundred feet, elevated more than a mile, and
-its outlook gives a splendid map of the Adirondacks. All about are
-mountains, though none are as high; McIntyre and Colden are close
-companions, with the dark forests of the St. Lawrence region
-stretching far behind them to the northwest. To the northward is the
-beautiful oval-shaped Lake Placid, with Whiteface rising beyond it,
-and nearby, to the westward, is the Indian "Big Eye," Mount Seward,
-which, with the "Giant of the Valley," rises far above the attendant
-peaks. Behind these, the hills to the northward gradually melt into
-the level lands along the St. Lawrence, out of which faintly rises the
-distant Mount Royal, back of Montreal. The Vermont Green Mountains
-bound the eastern horizon, with the hazy outline of Mount Washington
-traced against the sky through a depression in that range, thus
-opening an almost deceptive view of the distant White Mountains. The
-Catskills close the southern view. The vast wilderness spreads all
-around this noble mountain, its white lakes gleaming, its dark forests
-broken by a few clearings, and smokes arising here and there
-disclosing the abiding-places of the summer sojourner. Off to the
-northeast stretches the long glistening streak of Lake Champlain,
-low-lying, the telescope disclosing the sails of the vessels like
-specks upon its bosom, and the Vermont villages fringing the
-farther shore. This narrow, elongated lake, filling the immense
-trough-like valley between the Adirondacks and the Green Mountains of
-Vermont, the Indians called as one of its names (for it had several)
-Cania-de-ri-qua-rante, meaning "The door of the Country." Naming
-everything from a prominent attribute, to their minds the chief use of
-this long water way was as a door to let in the fierce Hurons from
-Canada when they came south to make war upon the Mohawks or the
-Mohicans. Many a brave warrior, both Indian and white, has gone
-through that door to attack his foes, one way or the other. As far
-back as tradition goes, the dusky savages were darting swiftly along
-the lake in their canoes, bent upon plunder or revenge. Then came
-Champlain, its white discoverer, to aid the Hurons with his arquebuse
-in their forays upon the Mohawks and Iroquois. In the ante-Revolutionary
-days many a French and Indian horde came along to massacre and destroy
-the English and Dutch settlements in the Hudson Valley. Then the
-current changed, and the English beat back their foes northward along
-the lake. Again it changed, as Burgoyne came in triumph through that
-door to meet defeat at Saratoga. Finally, in 1814, the last British
-forces moved southward on the lake, but they, too, were beaten. Since
-then this famous door has stood wide open, but only tourists and
-traders are passing through, though zest is given the present
-exploration by its warlike history of two centuries.
-
-
-LAKE GEORGE.
-
-Upon the southeastern border of the Adirondacks is Lake George, its
-head or southern end being nine miles north of Glen's Falls on the
-Hudson River. No American lake has had so many songs of praise; it is
-a gem among the mountains, its picturesque grandeur giving it the
-deserved title of the American Como. It reminds the Englishman of
-Windermere and the Scot of charming Loch Katrine, for while it is
-larger, it holds a place in our scenery akin to both those famous
-lakes. Embowered amid high hills, a crystal mirror set in among
-cliffs and forest-clad mountains, their wild and rugged features are
-constantly reflected in its clear spring waters. Its scenery mingles
-the gentle and picturesque with the bold and magnificent. George
-Bancroft, referring to its warlike history, says: "Peacefully rest the
-waters of Lake George between their ramparts of highlands. In their
-pellucid depth the cliffs and the hills and the trees trace their
-images, and the beautiful region speaks to the heart, teaching
-affection for nature." It is long and narrow, having more the
-character of a river than a lake, lying almost north and south, in a
-deep trough among the mountains, its waters discharging from the north
-end into Lake Champlain, and while thirty-six miles long, it is
-nowhere more than two or three miles wide. Washing the eastern verges
-of the Adirondacks, the bold ranges give it the rare beauties of
-scenery always presented by a mountain lake. Its surface is two
-hundred and forty-three feet above tide-water, and in some places it
-is over four hundred feet deep, the basin in which it rests being
-covered with a yellow sand, so that the bottom is visible through the
-pellucid waters at great depth. It is dotted with romantic islands,
-beautiful hill-slopes border the shores, and the background rises into
-dark and bold mountains. This magnificent lake was Horicon, or the
-"Silvery Water" of the Mohicans, a name which Cooper, the novelist,
-vainly endeavored to revive for it. The Mohawks called it
-Andiatarocte, or the "Place where the Lake Closes." The Hurons, as it
-appeared much like an appendage to Lake Champlain, named it
-Canaderioit, or the "Tail of the Lake." The first white man who saw it
-was the young French Jesuit missionary, Isaac Jogues, who had been
-captured on the St. Lawrence by a band of Mohawks, and was brought
-through it a captive in 1642, and after horrible maltreatment escaped
-to Albany. He went home to France, and in 1646 came out again,
-determined to convert them. His canoe entered its quiet waters on his
-beneficent mission on the eve of the festival of Corpus Christi, and
-he named it Lac du Saint Sacrament. He went on to the Mohawk Valley
-and ministered to them, but soon they murdered him. The French prized
-its clear and sparkling waters so highly that they were sent to Canada
-for baptismal uses. When Sir William Johnson came along more than a
-century later and took possession for England, he brushed aside all
-these romantic names, and in honor of his King George II., called it
-Lake George, the name which remains.
-
-A charming steamboat ride over the lake best discloses its delicious
-scenery as one glides among the lovely islands, and through scenes
-like a fairy-land, their brilliant prospects constantly changing. At
-almost every hour from noon to eve, or in the gathering storm, the
-islands of Lake George--which are said to equal in number the days of
-the year--exhibit ever new phases. They may sleep under the
-cloud-shadow, and then the sun brightly breaks over them; they present
-a foreground of rough rocks or of pebble and shingle-covered beach, or
-an Acadian bower of rustic beauty, while the landscape is filled with
-the spreading waters and the distant-tinted hills. Tea Island, near
-the head of the lake, is a picnic-ground; Sloop Island has its
-tree-trunks looking like the spreading sails of a single-masted
-vessel; Diamond Island yields beautiful quartz crystals. Near the
-centre of the widest portion of the lake is Dome Island, richly
-wooded, and resembling the noted "Ellen's Isle" of Loch Katrine. The
-Sisters are diminutive islets, lonely in their isolation. The
-beautiful Recluse Island has a picturesque villa, while all about it
-rise high mountains. Green Island bears the Sagamore, and behind it
-the encircling shores of Ganouskie Bay are lined with villas at
-Bolton, which look out upon a grand archipelago. Green Island covers
-seventy acres, and is a perfect gem of rich green surface. On the
-shores and islands all about are numerous summer camping-places, a
-favorite resort being the Shelving Falls, coming through the Shelving
-Rock, an impressive semicircle of Palisades, behind which rises the
-lake's greatest mountain, ever present in all its views, Black
-Mountain, elevated twenty-nine hundred feet. Just beyond, the towering
-hills thrust out on either hand contract the waters into the Narrows,
-dotted with a whole fleet of little islands, the most picturesque
-part of the lake, and here a brief fairy-like glimpse of the hamlet of
-Dresden is got, nestling under these great mountains, down Bosom Bay.
-Northward from the Narrows, a long projecting point of low and fertile
-land stretches out on the western side, still retaining that air of
-restful peace which in the eighteenth century secured it the name of
-Sabbath Day Point. Farther on, and near the outlet, Rogers' Slide is
-on one side and Anthony's Nose on the other, these bold cliffs
-contracting the lake into a second Narrows. Beyond these are lower and
-less interesting shores, and finally, at the foot, its waters are
-discharged through the winding Ticonderoga Creek into Lake Champlain.
-
-
-LAKE GEORGE BATTLES AND MASSACRES.
-
-The historical associations of Lake George are of the deepest
-interest, for it was the route between the colonial frontier and Lake
-Champlain, and the scene of great military movements and savage
-combats. For over a century this attractive region was the sojourning
-place of religious devotees coming down from Canada to convert or
-conquer the heathen Iroquois, or of hostile expeditions moving both
-north and south--Indians, French, Dutch, English--all passing over its
-lovely waters; and it was the scene of two of the most horrid
-massacres of the colonial wars. Whenever there was war between France
-and England this lake saw fierce conflicts, the red men taking part
-with the whites on both sides. In 1755 Sir William Johnson's
-expedition started northward from the Hudson to capture Crown Point on
-Lake Champlain, advancing from Glen's Falls to Lake George, over the
-route still taken. Colonel Ephraim Williams of Massachusetts commanded
-part of this expedition, and was ambushed by the French and Hurons
-near the lake, in what was called the "Bloody Morning Scout." Upon the
-road still exist grim memorials of the ambush and massacre in the
-"Bloody Pond" and "Williams' Rock." He had twelve hundred troops and
-two hundred Mohawk Indians, and both Williams and the white-haired
-Mohawk chief, Hendrick, were slain, with hundreds of their followers,
-and the bodies of the dead were thrown into the pond. When the brave
-Williams started on this sad expedition he had a presentiment of his
-fate and made his will at Albany, giving his estate to support a free
-school, and from this bequest was founded the well-known Williams
-College, at Williamstown, in the Berkshire hills of western
-Massachusetts. A monument on the hillside, resting upon "Williams'
-Rock," was erected in 1854 by the College Alumni, to mark the place of
-his death, while deep down in the glen is the sequestered pond which,
-tradition says, had a bloody hue for many years.
-
-After the surprise and massacre, Johnson's main forces, which had been
-at the head of Lake George and heard the firings came up and engaged
-the French, defeating them with great slaughter, wounding and
-capturing Baron Dieskau, their commander, who was badly maltreated
-until Johnson, learning who he was, sent for surgeons, took him into
-his own tent, and, although wounded himself, had Dieskau's wounds
-dressed first. The Mohawks, furious at the massacre and loss of their
-old chief, Hendrick, wanted to kill Dieskau, and a number of them,
-going into the tent, had a long and angry dispute in their own
-language with Johnson, after which they sullenly left. Dieskau asked
-what they wanted. "What do they want!" returned Johnson. "To burn you,
-by God, eat you, and smoke you in their pipes, in revenge for three or
-four of their chiefs that were killed. But never fear; you shall be
-safe with me, or else they shall kill us both." A captain and fifty
-men were detailed to guard Dieskau, but next morning a lone Indian,
-who had been loitering about the tent, slipped in and, drawing a sword
-concealed under a sort of cloak he wore, tried to stab the disabled
-prisoner. He was seized in time, however, to prevent the murder. The
-distinguished captive, as soon as his wounds permitted, was carried on
-a litter over to the Hudson, and sent thence to Albany and New York.
-He was profuse in his expressions of gratitude, and remarked of the
-provincial soldiers that in the morning they fought like good boys,
-about noon like men, and in the afternoon like devils. He returned to
-Europe in 1757, but he never recovered from his wounds and died a few
-years later. Johnson after the battle built a strong fort at the head
-of Lake George to hold his position, while the straggling French and
-Indians, who had retired to the foot of the lake, entrenched
-themselves at Ticonderoga. Thus was built the famous Fort William
-Henry by the English, named in honor of the Duke of Cumberland,
-brother of King George II., the hero of Culloden, while the French
-named their entrenched camp at Ticonderoga Fort Carillon, or the
-"Chime of Bells," in allusion to the music of the waterfalls in the
-outlet stream flowing beside it between the lakes.
-
-Bitter enemies thus holding either end of Lake George, it became a
-constant battleground. In 1757, after numerous skirmishes, a
-considerable British and Colonial force was collected at Forts Edward
-and William Henry, intended to attack Carillon and Crown Point and
-drive the French down Lake Champlain. General Montcalm then commanded
-the French, and learning what was going on, and that the main British
-force was at Fort Edward, he swiftly traversed the lake with a large
-army and cut off and besieged Fort William Henry, garrisoned by
-twenty-five hundred men. The commander at Fort Edward was afraid to
-send reinforcements, and after a few days the British garrison, their
-guns dismounted and their works almost destroyed, were forced to
-capitulate. No sooner had they laid down their arms and marched out
-of the fort and an adjacent entrenched camp, than the Indian allies of
-the French, the fierce Hurons, fell upon them, plundering
-indiscriminately and murdering all they could reach, there being
-fifteen hundred killed or carried into captivity, and over a hundred
-women slain, with the worst barbarities of the savage. Montcalm did
-his best to restrain them, but was powerless. The fort was an
-irregular bastioned square, formed by gravel embankments, surmounted
-by a rampart of heavy logs laid in tiers, the interstices filled with
-earth, and it was built almost at the edge of the lake, the site being
-now occupied by a hotel. The French spent several days demolishing it.
-The barracks were torn down and the huge logs of the rampart thrown
-into a heap. The dead bodies filling the casemates were added to the
-mass, which was set fire, and the mighty funeral pyre blazed all
-night. Then the French sailed away on the lake, and Parkman says "no
-living thing was left but the wolves that gathered from the mountains
-to feast upon the dead." When the English on the subsequent day sent a
-scouting party from Fort Edward they found a horrible scene; the fires
-were still burning, and the smoke and stench were suffocating, the
-half-consumed corpses broiling upon the embers. The fort had mounted
-nineteen cannon and a few mortars, a train of artillery which Johnson
-had highly prized. The French carried these guns off with them to
-Carillon, and they afterwards had a chequered history. The English
-subsequently retook them at Carillon, and changed the name of that
-fort to Ticonderoga. At the dawn of the Revolution, Ethan Allen and
-his Vermonters surprised Ticonderoga and got them. Then the guns were
-drawn on sledges to Boston, and did notable service in the American
-siege and capture of that city, afterwards going into many engagements
-with Washington's army.
-
-
-ATTACKING CARILLON.
-
-The Lake George outlet stream, which the French called Carillon, from
-its waterfalls, was known by the Indians as Ticonderoga, or "the
-sounding waters." It winds through a ridge about four miles wide
-between the lakes, is pretty but turbulent, and falls down two series
-of cascades, giving music and water-power to the paper and other mills
-at the villages of Alexandria and Ticonderoga, the descent being two
-hundred and thirty feet. The upper cascade at Alexandria goes down
-rapids descending two hundred feet in a mile, and the lower cascade is
-a perpendicular fall of thirty feet at Ticonderoga, this village being
-called by its people "Ty," for short. Here stood the original French
-Fort Carillon guarding the pass at the verge of Lake Champlain. After
-the horrible massacre at Fort William Henry, the British colonists
-determined upon revenge, and General James Abercrombie, who had been
-made the Commander-in-Chief of all the British forces in North
-America through political influence, gathered an army of nearly
-sixteen thousand men at the head of the lake, while Montcalm was at
-Carillon with barely one-fourth the number. Abercrombie, however, was
-little more than the nominal British commander. General Wolfe
-described him as a "heavy man;" and another soldier wrote that he was
-"an aged gentleman, infirm in body and mind." The British Government
-meant that the actual command should be in the hands of General Lord
-Howe, who was in fact the real chief, described by Wolfe as "that
-great man" and "the noblest Englishman that has appeared in my time,
-and the best soldier in the British army;" while Pitt called him "a
-character of ancient times; a complete model of military virtue." This
-young nobleman, then in his thirty-fourth year, was Viscount George
-Augustus Howe, in the Irish peerage, the oldest of the three famous
-Howe brothers who took part in the American wars. The army, Parkman
-says, "felt him from General to drummer-boy." In that army were also
-two future famous men, Israel Putnam and John Stark.
-
-They advanced northward on Lake George, July 5, 1758, in a grand
-flotilla of over a thousand boats, with two floating castles, the
-procession brilliant with rich uniforms and waving banners, and the
-music from its many bands echoing from the enclosing hills. Fenimore
-Cooper, in _Satanstoe_, gives a vivid description of this pageant.
-Passing beyond the Narrows, Abercrombie, on a Sunday morning, landed
-upon the fertile Sabbath Day Point to refresh his men before making
-the attack, thus naming it. Among them was Major Rogers, the Ranger,
-and in front could be seen the steep and rugged cliff of Rogers'
-Slide, named after him, its face a comparatively smooth inclined plane
-of naked rock, rising four hundred feet. The tale, as Rogers told it,
-was, that the previous winter, fleeing from the Indians, he practiced
-upon them a ruse, making them believe he had actually slid down this
-rock to the frozen surface of the lake. He was on snowshoes, the
-savages following, and ran out to the edge of the precipice, casting
-down his knapsack and provision-bag. Then turning around and wearing
-his snowshoes backward, he went to a neighboring ravine, and making
-his way safely down, fled over the ice to the head of the lake. The
-Indians saw the double set of shoe-marks in the snow, and concluded
-two men had jumped down rather than be captured. They saw Rogers going
-off over the ice, and believing he had safely slid down the face of
-the cliff, regarded him as specially protected by the Great Spirit and
-abandoned the pursuit. Thus has his name clung to the remarkable rock,
-though he was said to be a great braggart, and there were people who
-suggested that he ought to have been a leading member of the "Ananias
-Club." Beyond the slide, at the foot of the lake, is the low-lying
-Prisoners' Island, where the British kept the captives they took, and
-nearby Howe's Landing, where the army landed to attack Fort Carillon.
-
-There was then a dense forest covering almost all the surface between
-the lakes, greatly obstructed by undergrowth, and Montcalm had
-protected his position at Carillon with massive breastworks of logs,
-eight or nine feet high, having in front masses of trees cut down with
-their tops turned outwards, thus making it almost impossible for an
-enemy to get through, the sharpened points of the broken branches
-bristling like the quills of a porcupine. As the British troops
-advanced in four columns, they got much mixed up in the forest and
-undergrowth, and Howe, with Putnam and a force of rangers at the head
-of the principal column, although they could not see ahead, suddenly
-came upon the French, were challenged, and a hot skirmish followed, in
-which Howe was shot through the breast and dropped dead. Then all was
-confusion, but they beat this French advanced force and killed or
-captured most of them. The loss of Howe, however, was irretrievable,
-for Abercrombie, deprived of his advice, seemed unable to direct. The
-fort was attacked after a fashion, but the troops floundered about in
-the woods and the network of felled trees, suffered from a murderous
-fire, and were beaten and hurled back discomfited to the shore of the
-lake. A few days later the shattered army, having left nearly two
-thousand dead and dying in front of Carillon, sailed back up the lake
-again to Fort William Henry. Leadership had perished with Lord Howe.
-His monument is in Westminster Abbey, London, having been erected to
-his memory by the General Court of the Colony of Massachusetts, who
-voted Ł250 for it. So proud was Montcalm of his victory that he caused
-a great cross to be erected on the battlefield, with an inscription in
-Latin composed by himself, which is thus translated:
-
-     "Soldier and chief and rampart's strength are naught;
-      Behold the conquering Cross! 'Tis God the triumph wrought."
-
-
-TICONDEROGA.
-
-Abercrombie was superseded after this disaster and went home, his
-successor in command being Baron Jeffrey Amherst, who the next year
-led another grand martial procession northward along the lake to
-attack the French. His expedition had better success, for it resulted
-in the conquest of Canada, and the treaty of peace which followed
-closed the great "Seven Years' War" most triumphantly for England.
-Fort Carillon, the name of which the English changed to Fort
-Ticonderoga, stood upon a high rocky promontory, the termination of a
-mountain range, the extremity, then called Sugar Loaf Hill, but since
-named Mount Defiance, rising eight hundred and fifty feet above Lake
-Champlain. It is a lofty peninsula, nearly a square mile in surface,
-almost surrounded by water, with a swamp on the western side. When
-Amherst advanced, the French garrison was meagre, for Wolfe was
-threatening Quebec, and Montcalm had gone with reinforcements to repel
-him; so that actually without a struggle they abandoned the fort,
-after blowing up the magazine and burning the barracks. Amherst then
-pushed on to conquer Canada, and the war ending, the British regarded
-this and Crown Point, ten miles northward on Lake Champlain, as among
-their most important posts, commanding the route to the new Dominion.
-Both were greatly enlarged and strengthened, over $10,000,000 being
-expended upon them, an enormous sum for that day, so that they became
-the most elaborate British fortresses in the American colonies, the
-citadel and field works of Ticonderoga including an area of several
-square miles, having buildings and barracks and defensive
-constructions anterior to the Revolution, covering almost the entire
-surface. In 1763 France ceded Canada to England, and afterwards
-Ticonderoga was neglected and partially decayed. When the Revolution
-began in 1775 it was one of the earliest strongholds captured by the
-Americans. Ethan Allen, with eighty men, crossed over Lake Champlain
-from Vermont, surprised the small and unsuspecting garrison of fifty
-men in the night, and Allen, penetrating to the bedside of the
-astonished commandant, made his famous speech demanding surrender. "In
-whose name?" asked the surprised officer. "In the name of the
-great Jehovah and the Continental Congress." The Americans held it for
-two years, when Burgoyne, on his southern march in 1777, besieged it,
-and discovering that Mount Defiance, not then in the works, completely
-commanded it, he dragged cannon up there and erected batteries, which
-soon compelled the garrison to abandon it, and the British were in
-possession until the war closed.
-
-  [Illustration: _Old Fort Ticonderoga_]
-
-Ticonderoga has since fallen into utter decay, but parts of the ruins
-are now preserved as a national memorial. A portion of wall and a
-dilapidated gable enclosing a window still stand, and make a
-picturesque ruin on top of a high slope rising from Lake Champlain,
-with a background of timbered hills. These forests to the west and
-south have grown during the nineteenth century, and are full of the
-remains of the old redoubts and entrenchments. Well-defined dry
-ditches are traced beyond the ramparts, with the barrack walls
-surrounding the parade-ground, an old well, and also the sally-port on
-the water side where Allen and his bold Green Mountain boys effected
-their entrance. During many years after the fort fell into ruins, the
-neighbors carried off its well-cut brick and stone work to build the
-growing villages on Lake Champlain's shores. All the surroundings are
-now eminently peaceful. The invaders, no longer warlike, are on
-pleasure bent; the inhabitants make paper and textiles, saw lumber,
-and also manufacture good lead-pencils from graphite found nearby.
-Sheep contentedly browse amid the relics of the great fortress, and
-vividly recall Browning's pastoral:
-
-     "Where the quiet-colored end of evening smiles
-             Miles and miles
-     On the solitary pasture where our sheep,
-             Half-asleep,
-     Tinkle homeward through the twilight, stray or stop
-             As they crop--
-     Was the site of a city, great and gay,
-             (So they say.)"
-
-
-LAKE CHAMPLAIN.
-
-The elongated and narrow water way of Lake Champlain stretches
-northward one hundred and twenty-six miles, dividing New York from
-Vermont, and its head, south of Ticonderoga, extending to Whitehall,
-is so contracted between generally low and swampy shores, that it
-there seems more like a river than a lake, in some places being
-scarcely two hundred yards across. Northward, however, it broadens
-into a much wider lake, the greatest unobstructed breadth being about
-ten miles, opposite Burlington, Vermont, where it seems to expand
-almost into a sea. The widest part of all is beyond this, being about
-fifteen miles across, but with intervening islands. Over sixty islands
-are scattered about this attractive lake, the contour of the shores
-being very irregular, with numerous indenting bays. The northern
-outlet is by the Richelieu River and the Chambly Rapids into the St.
-Lawrence. Lake Champlain fills a long trough-like valley, bordered by
-mountain ranges. When compared with Lake George, however, its shores
-present a striking difference. There the declivities generally descend
-abruptly to the water, but on Champlain the distant ranges, usually
-far away on either side, have in front, bordering the water, wide
-stretches of meadow and farm land and broad green slopes. Upon the
-Vermont shore the prevailing aspect is a pastoral region, having the
-Green Mountains rising in the distant eastern background. These are
-the "Verts Monts," which the earliest French explorer of the St.
-Lawrence, Jacques Cartier, saw from afar off, when the Indians of
-Hochelaga, where Montreal now stands, took him to the top of their
-mountain--"Mont Real"--to show him the glorious southern landscape.
-These mountains gave Vermont its name, their highest peaks rising
-behind Burlington, Mount Mansfield and the Camel's Hump. The New York
-shore of the lake to the westward presents barren and mountainous
-scenery, the terminations of the Adirondack ranges being occasionally
-pushed out as bold promontories to the water's edge, while behind them
-the higher peaks loom in dark grandeur against the horizon.
-
-The adventurous French warrior and pioneer Samuel de Champlain was the
-first European who sailed upon the waters of Champlain, and he gave
-it his name. Anxious for exploration and adventure, in 1609 he joined
-a band of Huron and Algonquin warriors on an expedition against their
-enemies, the Mohawks and Iroquois in New York. After a grand war-dance
-at Quebec they set out, ascending the St. Lawrence and Richelieu, and
-on July 4th they entered the lake, Champlain having two French
-companions, and the three being armed with arquebuses. As they
-progressed towards the south, nearing the haunts of the Iroquois, they
-travelled only at night, hiding by day in the forest. On July 29th,
-while thus hiding, Champlain fell asleep and had a dream, wherein he
-beheld the Iroquois drowning in the lake, and, trying to rescue them,
-was told by his Huron companions that they were good for nothing, and
-had better be left to their fate. When he awoke he told them of his
-vision, and they were delighted. That very night they observed a
-flotilla of Iroquois canoes, heavier and slower than their own, in
-motion on the lake before them. Each saw the other, and mingled
-war-cries pealed over the dark waters. The Iroquois, not wanting to
-fight on the lake, landed and made a barricade of trees, which they
-cut down. The Hurons lashed their canoes together and remained a
-bowshot off-shore, shouting and dancing all night on their frail
-vessels. It was agreed they should fight in the morning, and until
-dawn the two parties abused each other, shouting taunts and defiance
-"much," writes Champlain, "like the besiegers and besieged in a
-beleaguered town," Champlain and his two companions, as day
-approached, put on their light armor and lay in the bottom of their
-canoes to keep hidden. Soon they all landed unopposed, and then the
-Iroquois, some two hundred in number, came out of their barricade to
-fight. The Hurons, who had surrounded Champlain, now opened their
-ranks, and he passed to the front, levelled his arquebuse and
-fired,--a chief fell dead, and soon another rolled among the bushes.
-Then the Hurons gave a yell, which Champlain says would have drowned a
-thunderclap, and the forest was filled with whizzing arrows. The
-Iroquois for a moment replied lustily, and the other Frenchmen, who
-were in the thicket on their flank, gave successive gunshots, which
-they could not withstand, but soon broke and fled in terror. The
-Hurons pursued them like hounds through the bushes, some were killed
-and more were taken prisoners, and the arquebuse, till now unknown to
-them, had won the victory. Then the victors, with their captives and
-spoils, withdrew to the St. Lawrence; and Champlain had thus assisted
-at the beginning of the awful series of conflicts which these lakes
-witnessed during two centuries. This fight was in the neighborhood of
-Crown Point, on Bulwagga Bay.
-
-The latest of these conflicts on the lake was Commodore McDonough's
-brilliant victory over the British fleet in 1814, since which time the
-history of Lake Champlain has been peaceful. Despite this early
-discovery and naming, however, it was not until long afterwards that
-it was generally known by the present name. The Mohawks and Iroquois,
-as already explained, called it the "Door of the Country." Among their
-other bitter foes were the Abenaqui Indian nation of New England, who
-called it Lake Potoubouque, or "the waters that lie between," that is,
-between their country and the land of the Iroquois. For similar
-reasons the French in Canada called it the "Iroquois Sea." A Dutch
-officer having afterwards been drowned here, both the French and the
-English for a long time styled it after him, "Corlaer's Lake." These
-names, however, all long ago vanished, and since the eighteenth
-century it has borne, undisputed, the name of Champlain, the great
-Father of Canada.
-
-
-CROWN POINT.
-
-Progressing northward from Ticonderoga, the lake suddenly makes a
-right-angled narrow bend to the westward, its channel compressed
-between a broad, flat, low promontory coming up from the south, and
-the protruding opposite shore that encircles and almost meets it.
-These are the Champlain Narrows, the southern promontory being Crown
-Point, and the opposite rock compressing the channel Chimney Point. A
-broad bay opens behind Crown Point to the westward, and under the
-shadow of Mount Bulwagga, the end of one of the long Adirondack
-ranges, is the village of Port Henry, a producer of iron-ores, there
-being furnaces here as well as on the shore south of Crown Point. Upon
-the southern promontory, thus thrust out between the lake and Bulwagga
-Bay, are the ruins of the famous fortress of Crown Point, which so
-well guarded the narrow crooked channel and its approaches, and closed
-the "door of the country" leading from Canada. Soon after Champlain's
-time the French, who held all this region, built a stone fort on the
-opposite point, and ambitiously planned a province, stretching from
-the Connecticut River to Lake Ontario, of which this was to be the
-capital. A town was started, with vineyards and gardens, and the
-"Pointe de la Couronne," as it was called, became widely known. Early
-in the eighteenth century the French built Fort St. Frederic here in
-the form of a five-pointed star, with bastions at the angles, and its
-ruins yet remain, showing traces of limestone walls, barracks, a
-church, and tower. For thirty years this fort was the base of supplies
-for forays on the colonial settlements, but it fell before Lord
-Amherst's march northward in 1759. This English conquest translated
-the "Pointe de la Couronne" into Crown Point, and then the British
-Government constructed enormous works to control the lake passage.
-There thus was built the great English fortress of Crown Point,
-covering the highest parts of the peninsular promontory southwestward
-from the old French fort. The limestone rocks were cut into deeply,
-and ramparts raised twenty-five feet thick and high, the citadel being
-a half-mile around. The ruins of these heavy walls, the ditches,
-spacious parade and demolished barracks, give an idea of the costly
-but obsolete military construction of that time. These extensive works
-were blown up by an exploding powder magazine.
-
-From the northeastern bastion of Crown Point a covered way leads to
-the lake, and here a well was sunk ninety feet deep for a water
-supply. Tradition told of vast treasures concealed by the French, and
-so excited did the people become that a joint-stock company was formed
-to search for them, clearing out the well and making excavations, but
-nothing was found but some lead and iron. The ruins are in lonely
-magnificence to-day, the red-thorn bushes brilliantly adorning them,
-and the place is a popular picnic-ground. From the northern ramparts
-there is a magnificent view of the distant Green Mountains on the
-right hand, with their gentle fields and meadows stretching down to
-the lake, and the rugged Adirondack foothills on the left, the distant
-dark mountain ranges looming far away behind them, with the huge
-broad-capped "Giant of the Valley" standing up prominently. Gazing at
-their sombre contour, the reason can be readily divined why the
-Indians called this vast weird region Cony-a-craga, or the "Dismal
-Wilderness." The higher Adirondack summits, composed of the hardest
-granite, are said by the geologists to be the oldest land on the
-globe and the first showing itself above the universal waters. Some
-distance above Port Henry is Westport Landing, the village standing in
-the deep recesses of Northwest Bay, where the long ridge of Split Rock
-Mountain, stretching towards the northeast, makes a high border for
-the bay. This curious ridge is of historical interest. The outer
-extremity is a cliff thirty feet high, covering about a half-acre, and
-separated from the main ridge by a cleft twelve feet wide cut down
-beneath the water. This cliff was the ancient Rock Reggio, named from
-an Indian chief drowned there, and was for a long time the boundary
-between the New York Iroquois and the Canadian Algonquins, whose lands
-were held respectively by the English and the French. It is mentioned
-in various old Colonial treaties as fixing the boundary between New
-York and Canada, but during the Revolution the Americans passed far
-beyond it, conquering and holding the land for seventy-seven miles
-northward to the present national boundary.
-
-
-THE GREEN MOUNTAINS.
-
-Above, the lake gradually broadens, and at the widest part are seen,
-on opposite sides, the village of Port Kent with its furnaces, and the
-flourishing Vermont city of Burlington. The great Adirondack ridge of
-Trembleau runs abruptly into the water as a sort of guardian to Port
-Kent, and just above, Ausable River flows out through its sandy
-lowlands into the lake. Vermont, which makes the entire eastern shore
-of Champlain, is a region of rural pastoral joys with many herds and
-marble ledges, a land of fat cattle and rich butter-firkins,
-overlooked by mountains of gentle slope and softened outline.
-Southward from Lake Champlain is Bennington, in a mountain-enclosed
-valley, near which was fought in August, 1777, the famous battle in
-which Colonel John Stark's Green Mountain boys cut off and signally
-defeated Baum's detachment of Burgoyne's army. It is now a flourishing
-manufacturing town. East of the head of Lake Champlain is Rutland, the
-centre of the Vermont marble-quarrying industry and the site of the
-great Howe Scale Works, a city of twelve thousand people.
-Three-fourths of the marble produced in the United States comes from
-this district of Vermont, and the Sutherland Falls Quarry at Proctor,
-near Rutland, is said to be probably the largest quarry in the world.
-These quarries are in the flanks of the Green Mountains which stretch
-northward, making the watershed between the upper Connecticut River
-and Lake Champlain. The Killington Peak, forty-two hundred and forty
-feet high, is not far from Rutland.
-
-Mansfield, the chief of the Green Mountains, is behind Burlington, and
-rises forty-three hundred and sixty-four feet. Seen from across the
-lake, it presents the upturned face of a recumbent giant, the southern
-peak being the "Forehead," the middle one the "Nose," and the
-northernmost and highest the "Chin." The latter, as seen against the
-horizon, protrudes upwards in most positive fashion, rising three
-hundred and forty feet higher than the "Nose," about a mile and a half
-distant. This decisive-looking Chin is thus upraised about eight
-hundred feet from the general contour of the mountain, while the Nose
-is thrust upward four hundred and sixty feet, its nostril being seen
-in an almost perpendicular wall of rock facing the north. Mansfield is
-heavily timbered until near the summit, and a hotel is perched up
-there at the base of the Nose, both Nose and Chin being composed of
-rock ledges, which have been deeply scratched by boulders dragged over
-them in the glacial period. These Green Mountains extend down from
-Canada, and terminate in the Taghkanic and Hoosac ranges of Berkshire
-in Massachusetts. They do not attain very high elevations, the Camel's
-Hump, south of Mansfield, rising forty-one hundred and eighty-eight
-feet. This was the "Leon Couchant" of the earliest French explorers,
-and it bears a much better resemblance to a recumbent lion than to a
-camel's back. The western slopes of these mountains are chiefly red
-sandstone, while their body and eastern declivities are granite,
-gneiss and similar rocks, and they are filled with valuable mineral
-products, marbles, slates and iron-ores. Their slopes have fine
-pastures of rich and nutritious grasses, and the green and rounded
-summits present a striking contrast to the lofty, bare and often
-jagged peaks of the White Mountains of New Hampshire beyond them.
-There are cultivated lands on their slopes, at an elevation as high as
-twenty-five hundred feet, and in and about them are the forests
-producing the dear, delicious maple sugar:
-
-     "Down in the bush where the maple trees grow,
-     There's a soft, moist fall of the first sugar snow;
-       And the camp-fires gleam,
-       And the big kettles steam,
-     For the maple-sugar season has arrived, you know;
-       And these are the days when you'll find on tap
-       The sweetest of juices, which is pure maple sap."
-
-
-BURLINGTON AND MONTPELIER.
-
-Burlington, the chief Vermont city, is built on the sloping hillside
-of a grandly curving bay, making a resemblance to Naples and its bay,
-which has inspired a local poet to address the city as "Thou lovely
-Naples of our midland sea." It has fifteen thousand people, and its
-prosperity has been largely from the lumber trade, the logs coming
-chiefly from Canadian and Adirondack forests. It is attractive, with
-broad tree-embowered streets, the elm and maple growing in luxuriance,
-while the hills run up behind the town into high summits. One of
-these, the College Hill, rising nearly four hundred feet, has the fine
-buildings of the University of Vermont, attended by six hundred
-students, its tower giving a superb outlook over Lake Champlain, which
-at sunset is one of the most gorgeous scenes ever looked upon.
-Lafayette laid the corner-stone of this college on his American visit
-in 1825, and his statue in sturdy bronze adorns the grounds. The
-finest college building is the Billings Library, presented by
-Frederick Billings, a projector, and once President of the Northern
-Pacific Railway. All about these hills there are attractive villas and
-estates, enjoying the view, of which President Dwight wrote, when
-wandering over New England in search of the historic and picturesque,
-that "splendor of landscape is the peculiar boast of Burlington." On
-the northern verge of College Hill is the city's burial-place of the
-olden time--Green Mount Cemetery. Here Ethan Allen is buried, a tall
-Tuscan monument surmounted by a statue marking the spot, which is
-enclosed by a curious fence made of cannon at the corners and muskets
-with fixed bayonets. Allen lived at Burlington during his later life,
-dying there in February, 1789.
-
-College Hill falls off to the northward to a broad intervale, down
-which winds the romantic Winooski or Onion River, flowing into Lake
-Champlain a short distance above Burlington. It comes out of a gorge
-in the Green Mountains, where it falls down pretty cascades and
-rapids. This Winooski gorge was a dreaded defile in the early days of
-the New England frontier, for by this route the fierce Hurons came
-through those mountains from Champlain and Canada to make forays upon
-the Massachusetts and New Hampshire border settlements. This gorge
-passes between Mount Mansfield and the Camel's Hump. To the northward
-is the noted "Smuggler's Notch" beyond the Chin of Mansfield, between
-it and Mount Sterling beyond, the name having been given because in
-the olden time contraband goods were brought through its gloomy
-recesses from Canada into New England. An affluent of the Winooski,
-the Waterbury River, comes out of this notch, a rapid stream. Upon the
-upper Winooski is Montpelier, the Vermont State Capital, pleasantly
-situated among the mountains near the centre of the commonwealth. Its
-State House is a fine structure of light granite, surmounted by a
-lofty dome. Massive Doric columns support its grand portico, under
-which stands the statue, in Vermont marble, of Ethan Allen, by
-Vermont's great sculptor, Larkin G. Mead. Here are also two old cannon
-which Stark captured from the Hessians at Bennington. They were
-afterwards used by the Americans with good effect throughout the
-Revolution, and subsequently were part of the army equipment taken to
-the western frontier. In the War of 1812 the British captured them in
-Hull's surrender at Detroit, but they were recaptured in a subsequent
-battle in Canada, and were sent as trophies to Washington. Congress
-ultimately gave them to Vermont, and they were placed in the State
-Capitol as relics of the battle of Bennington. Admiral George Dewey is
-a native of Montpelier, born there December 26, 1837. St. Albans, a
-great railroad centre and market for dairy products, is north of
-Burlington, near Lake Champlain, a picturesque New England town, with
-the elm-shaded central square. It is fourteen miles from the Canada
-border, and an important customs station. Of it, Henry Ward Beecher
-wrote that "St. Albans is a place in the midst of greater variety of
-scenic beauty than any other I remember in America."
-
-
-AUSABLE CHASM.
-
-One of the chief Adirondack rivers flowing into Lake Champlain is the
-Ausable. Its branches come out of the heart of the mountains, one
-through the beautiful Keene Valley and the other through the
-Wilmington Notch, and uniting at Ausable Forks, it flows along the
-northwestern side of the long ridge terminating in Trembleau Point at
-Port Kent, and enters the lake just above. The river escapes from the
-mountains through the wonderful gorge of Ausable Chasm. It is an
-active stream, bringing down vast amounts of sand, which wash through
-this gorge and are spread over the flats north of Trembleau, where the
-river flows out through two mouths. These prolific sand-bars, when
-first seen by the French, caused them to name the stream Ausable, the
-"river of sands." This renowned chasm, in its colossal magnificence
-and bold rending of the hard sandstone strata, is one of the wonders
-of America. A local poet has written on a little kiosk adjoining the
-river chasm this rhythmic explanation of its origin:
-
-     "Nature one day had a spasm
-     With grand result--Ausable Chasm."
-
-This splendid gorge, cut down in getting out of the highlands, is
-carved in the hardest Potsdam sandstones. It is a profound, and in
-most of its length a very narrow chasm, with almost vertical walls
-from seventy to one hundred and fifty feet high, the torrent pouring
-through the bottom being compressed within a width of eight to thirty
-feet, and rushing with quick velocity. The chasm is about two miles
-long, having several sharp bends, the stratified walls being built up
-almost like artificial masonry. The sides are frequently cut by
-lateral fissures, making remarkable formations, and the tops of the
-enclosing crags are fringed with a dense growth of cedars. The river
-of dark amber-colored water first comes out of the forest past
-Keeseville, where mills avail of its water-power, and then pours over
-the ledges of the Alice Falls, the finest in the Adirondacks. This
-splendid cataract of forty feet descent is above the entrance to the
-gorge, much of it being an almost sheer fall, having magnificent
-foaming watery stairways down the ledges, bordering it with their
-delicate lacework on either hand. The dark waters tumble in large
-volume into an immense amphitheatre, which has been rounded out by the
-torrent during past ages. Then bending sharply to the right, the
-river goes down some rapids and over a mill-dam built just above the
-chasm. The opening of this extraordinary rent in the earth is
-startling. Suddenly the river pours over a short fall, and then down
-another deep one strangely constructed, the line of the cataract being
-almost in the line of the stream. These are the Birmingham Falls, down
-which the Ausable plunges into the deep abyss, while high above stands
-a picturesque stone mill whose wheels are turned by the waters, and
-just below a light iron bridge carries a railway over the gorge.
-
-It is difficult to describe the profound chasm opening below the
-Birmingham Falls. It is a prodigious rent in the earth's crust, making
-sudden right-angled turns. The visitor at first goes down a long
-stairway and walks on the rocky floor adjoining the torrent, enormous
-walls rising high above. There are various formations made by the
-boiling waters, ovens, anvils, chairs, pulpits, punch-bowls and the
-like, and, judging by their names, the Devil seems to be the owner of
-most of them. The chasm turns sharply around the "Elbow," and the
-waters rush through the narrow passage of "Hell Gate." There are many
-caves and lateral fissures, all the masonry being hewn square, as in
-fact the whole gorge is, such being the regularity of the
-stratification and the accuracy of the angles and joints,--the
-ponderous walls, reared on high, sometimes almost close together,
-making the deep pass narrow and gloomy. The gorge finally contracts so
-much there is no further room for walking, and a boat is taken for the
-remainder of the journey down the "Grand Flume." The torrent carries
-the boat along swiftly, guided by strong oarsmen both at bow and
-stern, swinging quickly around the bends, shooting the rapids and
-whirling through the eddies. After rushing along the "Flume,"
-embracing the narrowest portions of the profound chasm, the boat
-finally floats out into the "Pool," where the waters at length settle
-into rest as they pass from the broken-down sandstone strata to the
-flat land beyond, where the river flows through its two mouths into
-the lake.
-
-
-PLATTSBURG AND ITS NAVAL BATTLE.
-
-Northward from Ausable River, Lake Champlain contains a number of
-large islands. Valeur Island is near the New York shore, and in the
-narrow channel separating them, in 1776, a desperate naval contest was
-fought between Arnold and Carleton, resulting in the defeat of the
-Americans. Beyond are the large islands of Grand Isle, South Hero and
-North Hero. Standing in an admirable position on Bluff Point, a high
-promontory on the western shore, is the great Hotel Champlain,
-elevated two hundred feet above the lake. To the north the Saranac
-River, coming from the southwest, flows out of the Adirondacks through
-its red sandstone gorge into Cumberland Bay, and at its mouth is the
-pleasant town of Plattsburg, having a population of seven thousand.
-The broad peninsula of Cumberland Head, projecting far to the
-southward into the lake, encloses the bay in front of the town.
-Plattsburg's greatest fame comes from its battle and Commodore
-McDonough's victory in 1814. The earliest settler was a British army
-officer, one Count de Fredenburgh, who built a sawmill at a fall near
-the mouth of the Saranac; but he was made way with early in the
-Revolution, and many have been the startling tales since told of his
-ghostly figure, in red coat and knee-breeches, stalking about the
-ruins of the old mill at Fredenburgh Falls. After the war, New York
-State confiscated the property and gave it to Zephaniah Platt and his
-associates, who established the town, and in 1785 rebuilt the mill.
-Plattsburg had become a place of so much importance that in the War of
-1812-15 the English sent a large force from Canada for its capture.
-They attacked it on a Sunday morning in September, 1814, Sir George
-Prevost commanding the land forces and Commodore Downie a fleet of
-sixteen vessels. General Macomb had a small American detachment
-entrenched on the southern bank of the Saranac in hastily constructed
-earthworks, some remains being yet visible. The naval contest,
-however, decided the day, the superior British fleet being overcome by
-the better American tactics. McDonough had but fourteen vessels,
-anchored in a double line across the mouth of Cumberland Bay. As the
-British fleet rounded Cumberland Head to make the attack, a cock that
-was aboard McDonough's flag-ship, the "Saratoga," suddenly flew upon a
-gun and crowed lustily. This was esteemed a good omen, and giving
-three cheers, the Americans went to work with a will. After two hours'
-conflict the British fleet was defeated and captured. Downie was
-killed early in the action, and with fifteen other officers sleeps in
-Plattsburg Cemetery. McDonough was crushed by a falling boom, and
-afterwards was stunned by being struck with the flying head of one of
-his officers, knocked off by a cannon-shot, but he was undaunted to
-the end. Honors were heaped upon him, Congress giving him a gold
-medal, and he was also presented with an estate upon Cumberland Head
-overlooking the scene of his victory.
-
-Plattsburg has the chief United States military post on the Canadian
-border, there being usually a large force stationed at the extensive
-barracks. It is also the terminus of railways coming from the
-Adirondacks, originally built to fetch out the iron-ores, of which it
-is an active market. One of these railways comes from Ausable Forks.
-Another is the Chateaugay Railroad, which has a circuitous route
-around the northern and eastern verges of the wilderness, from the
-Chateaugay and Chazy Lakes, where are the ore beds in a dismal region.
-Lyon Mountain, one of the chief ore producers, has its mines at two
-thousand feet elevation above the lake. Stretching far away to the
-northward is the immense Chateaugay forest and wilderness, extending
-into Canada. This railroad passes Dannemora, where is located the
-Clinton Prison, a New York State institution, at which it is said
-"they always have a number of people of leisure, who pass their time
-in meditation, making nails, cracking ore, and in other congenial
-pursuits." The railroad route cuts into the red sandstone gorge of the
-Saranac, and follows its valley out to Plattsburg. Some distance north
-of Plattsburg, and at the Canadian boundary, is Rouse's Point, a
-border customs station. This is the northern end of Lake Champlain,
-which discharges through the Richelieu or Sorel River into the St.
-Lawrence, the waters descending about one hundred feet, and mostly by
-the Chambly Rapids. The Chambly Canal, which locks down this descent,
-provides navigation facilities from Champlain to the St. Lawrence
-waters.
-
-
-ENTERING THE ADIRONDACKS.
-
-From Westport on Lake Champlain is one of the favorite routes into the
-Adirondacks. The name of this dark region originally came from the
-Mohawks, who applied it in derision to the less fortunate savages that
-inhabited the forbidding forests. The luxurious Mohawk, living in
-fertile valleys growing plenty of corn, could see nothing for his
-dusky enemy in this dismal wilderness to eat, excepting the dark
-trees growing on its mountain sides, and therefore the Mohawk called
-these people the Adirondacks, or "the bark and wood eaters." The
-actual derivation of the word is thought to come from the Iroquois
-root "atiron," meaning "to stretch along," referring to the mountain
-chains. Starting from Westport, we penetrate the region by a steep
-road into the Raven Pass, known as the "Gate of the Adirondacks,"
-going through one of the ridges, among juniper bushes and aspen
-poplars, and thus get to the pleasant valley beyond, where flows the
-lovely Bouquet River. Here are a bunch of red-roofed cottages
-surrounded by elms contrasting prettily with the green fields, with
-boarding-houses and hotels interspersed, making up the village of
-Elizabethtown, the county-seat of Essex, which is hereabout called
-E-Town, for short. It spreads over the flat bottom of a fertile
-valley, encompassed around by high mountains. Circling all over the
-valley and yet concealed in deep gorges is the Bouquet River, which
-flows out to Lake Champlain, near the Split Rock. To the westward
-rises the sharp bare granite top of Mount Hurricane, nearly
-thirty-eight hundred feet, and to the southwest the towering Giant of
-the Valley, over forty-five hundred feet. Cobble Hill, rising two
-thousand feet, closes up the western end of the main village street,
-its ball-like top being a complete reproduction of a huge
-cobble-stone. Out to the northward goes a wild mountain road, through
-the Poke o' Moonshine Pass, leading to Ausable Chasm, twenty-three
-miles away.
-
-Travelling westward from E-Town, we mount the enclosing slope of the
-Pleasant Valley, and through the gorge alongside Mount Hurricane, up
-the canyon of the western branch of Bouquet River. Crossing the summit
-among the granite rocks and forests, we then descend into another
-long, trough-like valley, stretching as a broad intervale far away
-both north and south, through which flows Ausable River. This
-intervale includes the charming "Flats of Keene," the sparkling
-Ausable waters meandering quietly over them beneath overhanging maples
-and alders, quivering aspens and gracefully swaying elms, occasionally
-dancing among the stones and shingle in some gentle rapid. Here are
-farmhouses, with many villas, the great mountain ridges protecting the
-valley from the wintry blasts. This intervale has in the eastern ridge
-the Giant of the Valley, with Mount Dix alongside, rising nearly five
-thousand feet, and to the southward, reared thirty-five hundred feet,
-exactly at the meridian, is the graceful Noon Mark Mountain, which
-casts the sun's noon shadow northward over the centre of the "Flats of
-Keene." The river, coming from the south, flows out of the lower
-Ausable Lake or the Long Pond, and dashes swiftly down its
-boulder-covered bed. Its waters are gathered largely from the eastern
-flanks of Mount Tahawus, and also from the galaxy of attendant
-peaks--Dix, Noon Mark, Colvin, Boreas, the Gothics, and
-others--grandly encircling the southern head of the attractive Keene
-Valley. The Ausable River rises under the brow of Tahawus, and flowing
-through the two long and narrow Ausable Lakes at two thousand feet
-elevation, traverses the whole length of the Keene Valley northward,
-to unite with its western branch at Ausable Forks, and thence goes
-through the great chasm to Lake Champlain. The head of the Keene
-Valley with the adjacent mountain slopes, extending through parts of
-three counties and covering a tract of forty square miles, is the
-"Adirondack Mountain Reserve." This reservation gives complete
-protection to the fish and game, and also preserves the forests and
-sources of the water supply. The Lower Ausable Lake is about two miles
-long and the Upper Ausable Lake nearly the same length, there being
-over a mile's distance between them. Some of the highest and most
-romantic of the Adirondack peaks environ these lakes. The sharply-cut
-summit of Mount Colvin rises forty-one hundred and fifty feet
-alongside them. The Ausable Lakes are in the bottom of a deep cleft
-between these great mountains, their sides rising almost sheer, two
-thousand feet and more above them. The lake shores are steep and rocky
-walls, reared apparently to the sky, the deep and contracted cleft
-making the lakes look more like rivers, surmounted high up the rocks
-by overhanging foliage, the trees diminutive in the distance. Of the
-Upper Ausable Lake, Warner writes that "In the sweep of its wooded
-shores, and the lovely contour of the lofty mountains that guard it,
-this lake is probably the most charming in America."
-
-
-ADIRONDACK ATTRACTIONS.
-
-The western guardian peaks of the Keene Valley are the main range of
-the Adirondacks, including Mount Marcy or Tahawus. Mount Colvin,
-alongside the Ausable Lakes, was named in honor of Verplanck Colvin,
-the New York surveyor and geologist, who devoted years of energy to
-the survey of this wilderness, and perhaps knew it better than anyone
-else. He was always in love with it, and thought that few really
-understood it. He described it as "a peculiar region, for though the
-geographical centre of the wilderness may be readily reached, in the
-light canoe-like boats of the guides, by lakes and rivers which form a
-labyrinth of passages for boats, the core, or rather cores, of this
-wilderness extend on either hand from these broad avenues of water,
-and in their interior spots remain to-day as untrodden by men and as
-unknown and wild as when the Indian paddled his birchen boat upon
-those streams and lakes. Amid these mountain solitudes are places
-where, in all probability, the foot of man never trod; and here the
-panther has his den among the rocks, and rears his savage kittens
-undisturbed, save by the growl of bear and screech of lynx, or the
-hoarse croak of the raven taking its share of the carcass of slain
-deer." The tangled Adirondack forest may to some seem monotonous and
-even dreary, but Mr. Street, the poet-writer of the region, thus
-enthusiastically refers to it: "Select a spot; let the eye become a
-little accustomed to the scene, and how the picturesque beauties, the
-delicate minute charms, the small overlooked things, steal out like
-lurking tints in an old picture. See that wreath of fern, graceful as
-the garland of a Greek victor at the games; how it hides the dark,
-crooked root, writhing snake-like from yon beech! Look at the beech's
-instep steeped in moss, green as emerald, with other moss twining
-round the silver-spotted trunk in garlands or in broad, thick, velvety
-spots! Behold yonder stump, charred with the hunter's camp-fire, and
-glistening black and satin-like in its cracked ebony! Mark yon mass of
-creeping pine, mantling the black mould with furzy softness! View
-those polished cohosh-berries, white as drops of pearl! See the purple
-barberries and crimson clusters of the hopple, contrasting their vivid
-hues!--and the massive logs peeled by decay--what gray, downy
-smoothness! and the grasses in which they are weltering--how full of
-beautiful motions and outlines!"
-
-From the Keene Valley we climb up the gorge of a brisk little brook to
-the westward, and passing through the notch between Long Pond Mountain
-and the precipitous sides of the well-named Pitch-Off Mountain, come
-to the pair of elongated deep and narrow ponds between them,--the
-Cascade Lakes,--stretching nearly two miles. Huge boulders line their
-banks with a wall of rough and ponderous masonry, entwined with the
-roots of trees, and like the Ausable Lakes, they are another Alpine
-formation, their surfaces being at twenty-one hundred feet elevation,
-yet resting in the bottom of a tremendous chasm. An unique cascade,
-falling in successive leaps for seven hundred and fifty feet down the
-southern enclosing mountain wall, has given them the name--a delicate
-white lace ribbon of foaming water, finally passing into the lower
-lake. The grand dome of Mount McIntyre, in the main Adirondack range,
-rises in majesty to an elevation of fifty-two hundred feet, a sentinel
-beyond the western entrance to this remarkable pass. Formerly
-iron-ores were found here, but iron-making has been abandoned for the
-more profitable occupation of caring for the summer tourist. Beyond
-these lakes the summit of the pass is crossed, and there is a farm or
-two upon a broad plateau, at twenty-five hundred feet elevation, the
-highest cultivated land in New York State. Comparatively little but
-hay, however, can be raised, the seasons are so short and fickle. Deer
-haunt this remote region, and their runways can be seen. Emerging from
-the pass, with the little streams all running westward to the
-Ausable's western branch, there is got a fine view of the main
-Adirondack range, with the massive Mount McIntyre and the almost
-perpendicular side of Wallface rising beyond, the deep notch of the
-famous Indian Pass, cut down between them, showing plainly. Both peaks
-tower grandly above a surrounding galaxy of bleak, dark mountains.
-
-
-OLD JOHN BROWN OF OSAWATOMIE.
-
-This broad flat valley of the Western Ausable, the stream winding
-through it in a deeply-cut gorge, and surrounded on the south and west
-by an amphitheatre of the highest Adirondack peaks, is the township of
-North Elba in Essex county; and the valley and its fertile borders are
-the "Plains of Abraham." It is a farming district, so well enclosed by
-the mountains that the soil is fairly tillable. These plains gradually
-slope northwestward to the banks of two of the most noted of the
-Adirondack waters, Lake Placid and the Mirror Lake, with old Whiteface
-Mountain for their guardian, "heaving high his forehead bare." Here
-are the scattered buildings of the village of North Elba on the
-plains, and the more modern and fashionable settlement beyond at the
-lakes. To the southward is the great rounded top of Tahawus, the
-highest Adirondack peak, displayed through an opening vista, and at
-the northern border grandly stands Whiteface, the black sides abruptly
-changing to white, where an avalanche years ago denuded the granite
-cliffs near the top and swept down all the trees. Here at North Elba
-was the home and farm of "Old John Brown of Osawatomie." He had been
-given this homestead by Gerrit Smith, the great New York Abolitionist,
-in 1849, and there had also been founded here a colony of refuge for
-the negro slaves. It was then a remote and almost unknown place in the
-wilderness. Brown settled in the colony and built his little log house
-and barn near a huge boulder which stood a short distance from the
-front door. Here he formed his plan for liberating the slaves, and
-from here went to engage in the Kansas border wars of 1856. Returning,
-for three years he brooded on plans to liberate the negroes, and after
-further conflicts in Kansas projected the expedition into Virginia for
-the capture of Harper's Ferry in October, 1859. He declared his object
-to be to free all the slaves, and that he acted "by the authority of
-God Almighty." After his capture and conviction he discouraged efforts
-at liberation, saying, "I am of more use to the cause dead than
-living." After his death his body was brought up here to his home in
-the wilderness, for he had said, "When I die, bury me by the big rock,
-where I love to sit and read the word of God." Here he was buried on a
-bitterly cold day in December, 1859, a few sorrowing friends
-conducting the services and covering up his body in the frozen ground.
-
-The old gravestone of his grandfather was brought from New England and
-put at the head of the grave, but it was soon so chipped off and
-broken by relic-hunters, it had to be enclosed in a case for
-preservation. Behind the grave rises the huge boulder on which has
-been carved, in large letters, "John Brown, 1859." The old gravestone
-is full of names both front and back, containing the record of his own
-death, and that of three sons, two losing their lives at Harper's
-Ferry and one in Kansas. The record of his life, graven on the stone,
-is: "John Brown, born May 9, 1800, was executed at Charleston, Va.,
-Dec. 2, 1859." It is here that
-
-     "John Brown's body lies a-mouldering in the grave,
-             And his soul goes marching on."
-
-Forty years afterwards, in 1899, the remains of seven of his
-companions in the Harper's Ferry raid were removed here and interred
-beside him. This region no longer knows Brown's kindred, for all have
-disappeared. Yet in the world's mutations, nothing could be more
-strange than that this remote wilderness, originally selected as a
-refuge and hiding-place for runaway slaves, should have become one of
-the most fashionable and popular health resorts in America. The farm
-and graves are now kept by New York State as a public park.
-
-
-LAKE PLACID TO PAUL SMITH'S.
-
-Lake Placid, nestling at the base of old Whiteface and elevated
-eighteen hundred and sixty feet above the sea, is often called the
-"Eye of the Adirondacks." Its mountain environment has made it almost
-a rectangle, four miles long and two miles wide. Down its centre,
-arranged in a row, are three beautiful islands, named respectively the
-Hawk, Moose and Buck, two being large and high and the third smaller.
-These divide it into alternating spaces of land and water much like a
-chess-board. To the eastward is the pretty Mirror Lake, about three
-miles in circuit. Both lakes have high wooded shores, and around them
-are gathered the hotels, cottages and camps of a large summer
-settlement. Surrounded by a grander galaxy of finer and higher
-mountains than any other lakes of this region, here is truly the "Eye"
-that views these dark Adirondacks in all their glory. These mountains
-are all sombre, and some almost inky black; many are hazy in the
-distance. To the northeast the Wilmington Pass, alongside Whiteface,
-lets out the western branch of Ausable; to the southward, the Indian
-Pass opening between McIntyre and Wallface is a source of the Hudson;
-to the westward, on the spurs of lower ranges, are the forests
-separating these lakes from the Saranacs. There are more than a
-hundred peaks around, of varying heights and features, among them the
-greatest of the Adirondacks. Embosomed within this wonderful
-amphitheatre is the glassy-surfaced lake, protected from the winds and
-storms, which is so attractive and so peaceful that it fully deserves
-its name, Lake Placid.
-
-Crossing again to the westward through the forests and over the
-ridges, we come into the valley of the Saranac, with its lakes, and
-the ancient village of Harrietstown under the long ridge of Ampersand
-Mountain. Here on the Lower Saranac Lake is another summer settlement
-of villas, hotels and camps. Behind the mountain there is a little
-lake out of which flows a stream so crooked and twisted into and out
-of itself, turning around sweeping circles without accomplishing much
-progress, that its discoverers could not liken it to anything more
-appropriate than to the eccentric supernumerary of the alphabet, the
-"&." Thus the name of the "Ampersand" of the old spelling-books was
-applied first to the stream, and then to the lake and mountain, the
-latter being the guardian of the many lakes of this region. The Lower
-Saranac Lake is at fifteen hundred and forty feet elevation, and the
-Ampersand Mountain rises a thousand feet above it. A pretty church in
-the village is appropriately named for St. Luke the Physician, and
-here is located the Adirondack Sanitarium, this district being a
-favorite refuge for consumptives. The Chateaugay railroad comes in
-here, but the district beyond to the south and west has neither
-railroads nor wagon roads. It is such a labyrinth of lakes and water
-courses it can only be traversed in boats.
-
-The whole western part of the Adirondacks is an elevated tableland,
-containing many hills and peaks, but saturated by water ways.
-Therefore "canoeing and carrying" is the method of transportation.
-The Lower Saranac Lake is five miles long, and beyond it is Round
-Lake, over two miles in diameter, beyond that being the Upper Saranac
-Lake, nearly eight miles long and dotted with islands. There are
-portages between them where the canoes have to be carried. The outlet
-of the Upper Saranac is a magnificent cataract and rapid, descending
-thirty-five feet in a distance of about one hundred yards. From the
-Upper Saranac Lake other portages, or "carrys," as they are called,
-lead over to the Blue Mountain region, the Raquette River and the
-Tupper Lakes to the westward. The Adirondack ranges here are lower,
-and the forests get denser, but all about are dotted the summer
-settlements, some of them displaying most elaborate construction.
-Every place has its boat-house and canoe-rack, and boats are moving in
-all directions. At the head of the Upper Saranac is St. Regis
-Mountain, and a long "carry" of about four miles through the forest
-goes over to the Big Clear Pond, the head of the Saranac system of
-waters. Crossing this lake, yet another "carry" takes us over the
-watershed. This is a famous portage in the liquid district, the "St.
-Germain carry" of over a mile between the Saranac headwaters and the
-sources of St. Regis River, flowing out westward and then northward to
-the St. Lawrence. It leads to the series of St. Regis Lakes, and
-finally on the bank of the Lower St. Regis to the great hotel of the
-woods--Paul Smith's--with many camps surrounding the shores of the
-lake. Apollus Smith, a shrewd Yankee, came here many years ago, when
-the locality was an unbroken wilderness, and built a small log house
-in the forest as an abiding-place for the hunter and angler. It was
-repeatedly enlarged, and with it the domain, now covering several
-thousand acres, until the hostelrie has become an unique mixture of
-the backwoods with modern fashion, and is everywhere known as the
-typical house of the Adirondack region. Upon the hill behind the hotel
-is the attractive little church of "St. John in the Wilderness,"
-appropriately built of logs hewn in the surrounding forest.
-
-
-ADIRONDACK LAKES.
-
-To the westward is the water system of the Raquette River, leading to
-the St. Lawrence; this stream, the chief one in the district, flowing
-out of Raquette Lake. This lake is irregularly shaped, about ten miles
-long, and surrounded by low hills, its elevation being nearly eighteen
-hundred feet. The dense forests that are adjacent teem with game, and
-its hotels and private camps are among the best in the region, "Camp
-Pine Knot" being especially famous as the most elaborate and
-attractive of its kind in America. Blue Mountain rises to the eastward
-nearly thirty-eight hundred feet, and at its southwestern base is the
-Blue Mountain Lake, having on its southern edge the small Eagle Lake,
-where lived in a solitary house called the Eagle's Nest the noted "Ned
-Buntline," the author. To the southwest of Raquette are the chain of
-eight Fulton Lakes. North of Raquette are the Forked Lakes, and
-northeast of it, following down the Raquette River, Long Lake, which
-is fourteen miles long and barely a mile wide in the broadest part,
-having Mount Seward rising at its northern end. To the northwest,
-still following down the Raquette, are the Tupper Lakes. These are a
-few of the larger lakes in this labyrinth of water courses, there
-being hundreds of smaller ones; and, as the forest and water ways
-extend northwest, the land gradually falls away towards the great
-plain adjoining the St. Lawrence. These regions, however, are remote
-from ordinary travel, and the western Adirondack forests are rarely
-penetrated by visitors excepting in search of sport.
-
-This wonderful region has only during recent years attracted general
-public attention as a great sanitarium and summer resort, but its
-popularity constantly increases. Its dark and forbidding mountains
-have become additionally attractive as they are better known, probably
-for the reason, as John Ruskin tells us, that "Mountains are the
-beginning and the end of all natural scenery." Its universal woods and
-waters have a resistless charm. As one wanders through the devious
-pathways, or glides over the glassy surface of one of its myriad
-lakes, the vivid coloring and richness of the plant life recall
-Thomson, in the _Seasons_:
-
-                       "Who can paint
-     Like Nature? Can imagination boast
-     Amid its gay creation hues like her's?
-     Or can it mix them with that matchless skill,
-     And lose them in each other, as appears
-     In every bud that blows?"
-
-But after all, the great Adirondack forests, vast and trackless, much
-of them in their primitive wildness, are to the visitor possibly the
-grandest of the charms of this weird region. The "Great North Woods"
-still exist as the primeval forest on many square miles of these broad
-mountains and deep valleys, recalling in their solitude and grandeur
-William Cullen Bryant's _Forest Hymn_:
-
-     "The groves were God's first temples. Ere man learned
-     To hew the shaft and lay the architrave,
-     And spread the roof above them--ere he framed
-     The lofty vault, to gather and roll back
-     The sound of anthems; in the darkling wood,
-     Amidst the cool and silence he knelt down
-     And offered to the Mightiest solemn thanks
-     And supplication."
-
-
-
-
-CROSSING THE EMPIRE STATE.
-
-
-
-
-XIII.
-
-CROSSING THE EMPIRE STATE.
-
-     The Mohawk Valley -- Cohoes and its Falls -- Occuna's Death --
-     Erie Canal -- De Witt Clinton -- New York Central Railroad --
-     Mohawk and Hudson Railroad -- Schenectady -- Union College --
-     Amsterdam -- Fort Johnson -- Sir William Johnson -- Johnstown
-     -- The Iroquois or Six Nations -- Senecas -- Red Jacket --
-     Cayugas -- Onondagas -- Oneidas -- Tuscaroras -- Mohawks --
-     Joseph Brant -- The Noses -- Little Falls -- Herkimer -- Utica
-     -- Classic Names -- Rome -- Trenton Falls -- Lake Ontario --
-     The Lake Ridge -- Black River -- Cazenovia Lake -- Oneida Lake
-     -- Oneida Community -- Oswego River -- Oswego -- Onondaga Lake
-     -- Syracuse -- Salt Making -- Syracuse University -- Otisco
-     Lake -- Skaneateles Lake -- Owasco Lake -- Auburn -- William H.
-     Seward -- Cayuga Lake -- Ithaca -- Fall Creek -- Cascadilla
-     Creek -- Taghanic Falls -- Cornell University -- Ezra Cornell
-     -- John McGraw -- Seneca Lake -- Havana Glen -- Watkins Glen --
-     Geneva -- Hobart College -- Seneca River -- Keuka Lake -- Penn
-     Yan -- Hammondsport -- Canandaigua Lake and Town -- Canisteo
-     River -- Hornellsville -- Painted Post -- Corning -- Chemung
-     River -- Elmira -- Genesee River -- Portage Falls -- Genesee
-     Level -- Mount Morris -- Council House of Cascadea -- Geneseo
-     -- Rochester and its Falls -- Sam Patch -- Medina Sandstones --
-     Lockport -- Chautauqua Lake -- Chautauqua Assembly --
-     Pennsylvania Triangle -- Erie -- Perry's Victory -- Captain
-     Gridley's Grave -- Dunkirk -- Buffalo -- Sieur de la Salle and
-     the Griffin -- Grain Elevators -- Prospect Park -- Fort Porter
-     -- Fort Erie -- Niagara River -- Grand Island -- Niagara Falls
-     -- Niagara Rapids -- Father Hennepin's Description -- Charles
-     Dickens -- Professor Tyndall -- Anthony Trollope -- Geological
-     Formation -- Appearance of Niagara -- Goat Island -- Luna
-     Island -- Cave of the Winds -- Terrapin Rocks -- Three Sisters
-     Islands -- The Horseshoe -- Condemned Ship Michigan -- Lower
-     Rapids -- Whirlpool -- Niagara Electric Power -- Massacre of
-     Devil's Hole -- Battles of Queenston Heights, Chippewa and
-     Lundy's Lane.
-
-
-THE FALLS AT COHOES.
-
-The valley of the Mohawk River provides one of the best routes for
-crossing the Empire State, from the Hudson over to Lake Erie. Within
-sight of the Hudson, the Mohawk pours down its noble cataract at
-Cohoes. This is a waterfall of nearly a thousand feet width, the
-descent being seventy-eight feet. The banks on either side are quite
-high, with foliage crowning their summits, and between is a
-perpendicular wall of dark-brown rocks making the cataract, having a
-sort of diagonal stratification that breaks the sombre face into
-rifts. In a freshet this is a wonderful fall, the swollen stream
-becoming a dark amber-colored torrent with adornments of foam, making
-a small Niagara. The river is dammed about a mile above, so that at
-times almost the whole current is drawn off to turn the mill-wheels of
-Cohoes, making paper and manufacturing much wool and cotton, one of
-its leading establishments being the "Harmony Knitting Mills." In
-digging for the foundations of its great buildings alongside the
-river, this corporation several years ago exhumed one of the most
-perfect skeletons of a mastodon now existing, which is in the State
-Museum at Albany. Cohoes has about twenty-five thousand population,
-and its name comes from the Iroquois word Coh-hoes, meaning a "canoe
-falling." A brisk rapid runs above the falls, and a touching Indian
-legend tells how the rapid and fall were named. Occuna was a young
-Seneca warrior (one of the Iroquois tribes), and with his affianced
-was carelessly paddling in a canoe at the head of the rapid, when
-suddenly the current drew them down towards the cataract. Escape being
-impossible, they began the melancholy death-song in responsive chants,
-and prepared to meet the Great Spirit. Occuna began: "Daughter of a
-mighty warrior; the Great Manitou calls me hence; he bids me hasten
-into his presence; I hear his voice in the stream; I see his spirit in
-the moving of the waters; the light of his eyes danceth upon the swift
-rapids." The maiden responded, "Art thou not thyself a great warrior,
-O Occuna? Hath not thy tomahawk been often bathed in the red blood of
-thine enemies? Hath the fleet deer ever escaped thy arrow, or the
-beaver eluded thy chase? Why, then, shouldst thou fear to go into the
-presence of the Great Manitou?" Then said Occuna, "Manitou regardeth
-the brave, he respecteth the prayer of the mighty! When I selected
-thee from the daughters of thy mother I promised to live and die with
-thee. The Thunderer hath called us together. Welcome, O shade of
-Oriska, invincible chief of the Senecas. Lo, a warrior, and the
-daughter of a warrior, come to join thee in the feast of the blessed!"
-The canoe went over the fall; Occuna was dashed in pieces among the
-rocks, but the maiden lived to tell the story. The Indians say that
-Occuna was "raised high above the regions of the moon, from whence he
-views with joy the prosperous hunting of the warriors; he gives
-pleasant dreams to his friends, and terrifies their enemies with
-dreadful omens." Whenever the tribe passed the fatal cataract they
-solemnly commemorated Occuna's death.
-
-
-THE ERIE CANAL.
-
-Just above Cohoes, the Erie Canal crosses the Mohawk upon a stately
-aqueduct, twelve hundred feet long, and it then descends through the
-town by an elaborate series of eighteen locks to the Hudson River
-level. This great water way made the prosperity of New York City, and
-is the monument of the sagacity and foresight of De Witt Clinton,
-Governor of New York, who, despite all obstacles, kept advocating and
-pushing the work until its completion. The construction began in 1817,
-and it was opened for business in 1825. The first barge going through
-had a royal progress from Buffalo, arriving at Albany at three minutes
-before eleven o'clock on the morning of October 26, 1825. There being
-no telegraphs, a swift method was devised for announcing her arrival,
-both back to Buffalo and down the Hudson River to New York. Cannon
-placed within hearing of each other, at intervals of eight or ten
-miles, were successively fired, announcing it in both cities, the
-signal being returned in the same way. By this series of cannon-shots
-the report went down to New York and came back to Albany in
-fifty-eight minutes. When the first barges from Buffalo reached New
-York they were escorted through the harbor by a grand marine
-procession, which went to the ocean at Sandy Hook, where Governor
-Clinton poured in a keg of water brought from Lake Erie. The original
-Erie Canal cost $7,500,000, but it was afterwards enlarged and
-deepened, and further enlargements are still being made. It is
-fifty-six feet wide at the bottom and seventy feet at the surface,
-with seven feet depth of water. The barges are stoutly built and carry
-cargoes of seven to nine thousand bushels of grain. The canal is three
-hundred and fifty-five miles long, and gradually descends from Lake
-Erie five hundred and sixty-eight feet to the tidal level of the
-Hudson River, there being seventy-two locks passed in making the
-journey. This work, with its feeders and connections with the St.
-Lawrence River by the Champlain and Oswego Canals and the
-enlargements, has cost New York $98,000,000, and the maintenance costs
-$1,000,000 a year. It carries a tonnage approximating four millions
-annually, and is now free of tolls. Usually it carries half the grain
-coming to New York City. There are various projects for its further
-enlargement to twelve feet depth to accommodate larger boats, and its
-future usefulness is a theme of wide discussion. Its route across New
-York State is naturally the one of easiest gradient, passing from
-Buffalo over the flat plain of Western New York, descending to the
-lower level of the Genesee Valley, then crossing the plain immediately
-north of the central lake district of New York, and finally by the
-Mohawk Valley, getting an easy passage through the narrow mountain
-gorge at Little Falls, and thence alongside that stream to the Hudson.
-
-Closely accompanying the canal, the great Vanderbilt line, the New
-York Central Railway, crosses New York from Albany to Buffalo. It runs
-for seventeen miles, from Albany to Schenectady, and then follows up
-the Mohawk Valley. This seventeen miles of road is probably the oldest
-steam railroad in the United States--the Mohawk and Hudson Company,
-chartered in April, 1826. The commissioners organizing it met for the
-purpose at John Jacob Astor's office in New York City, July 29, 1826,
-and sent an agent over to England to inquire into its feasibility, and
-he came back with the plans, and was put in charge at $1500 salary.
-This was Peter Fleming, the first manager. The original power was by
-horses, and afterwards steam was used in daytime only, horses
-continuing the night work, it not being considered safe to use steam
-after dark. One car, looking much like an old-fashioned stage-coach,
-made a train. There were fourteen miles of level line, the remainder
-being inclined planes, where horses did the most work. When the car
-approached the station the agent met it, blocking the wheels with a
-wedge, which was removed when the car started again. As business
-increased, more cars were added to the trains, and then a guard was
-put on top of the first car back of the locomotive, to watch the train
-and see that everything moved right. He frequently notified the
-engineer to stop when a car was seen bobbing about sufficiently to
-indicate that it was off the track. This primitive road was the
-beginning of the New York Central Railroad, which was gradually
-extended westward.
-
-
-ASCENDING THE MOHAWK.
-
-Schenectady on the Mohawk is a quaint old town of Dutch foundation,
-now devoted considerably to hops and butter, and largely to the trade
-in brooms. The Indians called it Skaunoghtada, or "the village seen
-across the plain," and hence the name. It was an early outpost of the
-Patroon at Albany, who sent Arent Van Corlaer to build a fort and
-trade in furs with the Indians in 1661. There were two horrible
-massacres here in the colonial wars. This comfortable city spreads
-broadly on the southern bank of the river and has over twenty thousand
-people. It is the seat of Union College, the buildings, upon a height
-overlooking the valley, being prominent. The college is part of the
-foundation of Union University, organized by the coöperation of
-various religious denominations, embracing medical, law and
-engineering schools, and also the Dudley Observatory at Albany. Such
-eminent men as Jonathan Edwards and Eliphalet Nott have been its
-presidents. Some distance up the Mohawk is Amsterdam, another
-flourishing town, and the whole region thereabout is covered with
-fields of broom-corn, the Mohawk Valley being the greatest producer of
-brooms in America, and the chief broom-makers the Shakers, who have
-several settlements here. To the northward of the river above
-Amsterdam is Fort Johnson, a large stone dwelling which was the home
-of Sir William Johnson, the noted pioneer and colonial General. In
-1738, at the age of twenty-three, he came out from England to manage
-Admiral Warren's large estates in the Mohawk Valley. He soon became
-very friendly with the Indians, the Mohawks adopting him as a sachem,
-and he had much to do with the Indian colonial management. He finally
-became the superintendent of the affairs of the Indian Six Nations,
-the Iroquois, and got his title of baronet for his victory over the
-French in 1755 at Fort William Henry, on Lake George. He was in the
-subsequent campaigns, captured Fort Niagara in 1759, and was present
-at the surrender of Montreal, and finally of Canada, the next year.
-For his services in these important conflicts the King gave him a
-tract of one hundred thousand acres north of the Mohawk, long known as
-"Kingsland" or the "Royal Grant." He brought in colonists and started
-Johnstown on this tract. He was active in his duties as head of the
-Indian Department, his death in 1774 resulting from over-exertion at
-an Indian Council. He was the great pioneer of the Mohawk, his
-influence over the Indians being potential, and his village of
-Johnstown, about eight miles north of the river, now having about five
-thousand people. He had a hundred children by many mistresses, both
-Indian and white, his favorite, by whom he had eight children, being
-the sister of the famous Mohawk chief, Joseph Brant.
-
-
-THE LEAGUE OF THE SIX NATIONS.
-
-All this region, and the lands westward beyond the Central Lake
-District of New York, was the home of that noted Indian Confederation
-of America which the French named the Iroquois. When the earliest
-French explorers found them, they were the "Five Nations"--the
-Senecas, Cayugas, Onondagas, Oneidas and Mohawks. Their name as a
-league was Hodenosaunee, meaning "they form a cabin,"--this being
-their idea of a combination, offensive and defensive, and within their
-figurative cabin the fire was in the centre at Onondaga, while the
-Mohawk was the door. They were great warriors, and their tradition was
-that the Algonquins had driven them from Canada to the south side of
-Lake Ontario. Subsequently a portion of the Tuscaroras came up from
-the South, and being admitted to the Confederacy, it became the "Six
-Nations." They had considerable warlike knowledge. Near Elmira, which
-is close to the Pennsylvania boundary south of Seneca Lake, their
-ancient fortifications are still visible, having been located with the
-skill of a military engineer as a defense against attacks. Fort Hill
-at Auburn was also an Iroquois fortification that has yielded many
-relics, and other works constructed by them are shown in various
-places. The league carried on almost continuous warfare against the
-neighboring tribes and the frontier colonists, and were conspicuous in
-all the colonial wars. When in their greatest prosperity they numbered
-about fifteen thousand, and over ten thousand now exist, being located
-on Canadian reservations adjacent to the St. Lawrence River, and on
-eight reservations in New York, where there are about five thousand,
-in civilized life, chiefly engaged in agriculture. In the ancient
-league they were ruled by the Council of Sachems of the various
-tribes, the central council-fire being upon the shore of Onondaga
-Lake, and the Atotarho, or head sachem of the Onondagas, being chief
-of the league.
-
-In colonial New York the westernmost tribe was the Senecas, whose
-hunting-grounds extended from the Central Lake District to Lakes
-Ontario and Erie. When the Dutch pioneers encountered these Indians
-they were found to have the almost unpronounceable name of
-"Tsonnundawaonos," meaning the "great hill people," and the nearest
-the Dutch could come to it was to call them "Sinnekaas," which in time
-was changed to Senecas. The Quakers took great interest in them, with
-such fostering care that three thousand Senecas now live on the
-sixty-six thousand acres in their reservations. They have their own
-Indian language and special alphabet, and portions of the Scriptures
-are printed in it. In their days of power they had two famous
-chiefs--Cornplanter, also called Captain O'Beel, the name of his white
-father, he being a half-breed, and Red Jacket. The latter lived till
-1830 in the Senecas' village near Buffalo. His original Indian name
-was Otetiani, or "Always Ready," and the popular title came from a
-richly-embroidered scarlet jacket given him by a British officer,
-which he always had great pride in wearing. He was a leader among the
-Indians of his time and an impressive orator. Next eastward of the
-Senecas were the Cayugas, who, when discovered by the French on the
-banks of their lake, had about three hundred warriors, and in the
-seventeenth century, under French tutelage, their chiefs became
-Christians. A remnant of the tribe is in the Indian Territory. The
-Onondagas were the "men of the mountain," getting their name from the
-highlands where they lived, south of Onondaga Lake. There are about
-three hundred now on their reservation and as many more in Canada.
-Their language is regarded as the purest of the Iroquois dialects, and
-its dictionary has been published. Farther eastward, where the granite
-outcroppings of the southern Adirondack ranges appeared, were the
-Oneidas, the "tribe of the granite rock," now having on their
-reservation at Oneida Castle over two hundred, with many more in
-Wisconsin and Canada. The Tuscaroras came into the league in 1713, and
-were given a location on the southeastern shore of Oneida Lake, and
-they are now on a reservation in Western New York, where over three
-hundred live, with more in Canada. Their name was of modern adoption,
-after they had assumed some of the habits of the whites, and means the
-"shirt-wearers."
-
-The Mohawks lived farther east, in the Mohawk Valley, among the
-limestone and granitic formations of the Adirondacks and Eastern New
-York, and they were the Agmaque, meaning "the possessors of the
-flint." Within the league their name was Ganniagwari, or the
-"She-Bear," whence the Algonquins called them Mahaque, which the
-English gradually corrupted into Mohawk, the name being also adopted
-for their river. The early Dutch settlers at Albany made a treaty with
-them which was lasting, and the English also had their friendship.
-Their most noted chief was Thayendanega, better known as Joseph Brant,
-who espoused the English cause in the Revolution and held a post in
-the Canadian Indian Department, his tribe then extending throughout
-the whole region between the St. Lawrence and the Hudson. He visited
-England in 1786 and collected money to build a church for his people,
-and published the Prayer-Book and the Gospel of Mark in Mohawk and
-English. He steadily exerted himself after the Revolution to maintain
-peace between the frontier Indians and the United States, being
-zealously devoted to the welfare of his tribe. He had an estate on the
-shore of Lake Ontario, where he died in 1807.
-
-
-LITTLE FALLS AND UTICA.
-
-In ascending the Mohawk valley the distant view is circumscribed on
-the south by the Catskills and Helderbergs, and on the north by the
-Adirondack ranges. The outcrops of the latter compress upon the river
-in long protruding crags covered with firs and known as the "Noses."
-There are various villages, started in the eighteenth century as
-frontier posts among the Indians. There are also hop-fields in plenty
-and much pasture, and finally the hills become higher and the valley
-narrower as Little Falls is reached, where the Mohawk forces a passage
-through a spur of the Adirondacks, known as the Rollaway. The river,
-approaching the gorge, sharply bends from east to south, and plunges
-wildly down a series of rapids, the town being set among the rocky
-precipices right in the throat of the defile. The place is heaped with
-rocks, the stream falling forty-two feet within a thousand yards, the
-descent forming three separate cataracts, which give power to numerous
-mills on the banks and clustering upon an island in the rapids. They
-make cheese and paper, and on either hand precipitous crags rise five
-hundred feet above them. The pass is very narrow, compressing the
-Erie Canal and the New York Central and West Shore Railways closely
-upon the river; in fact, the canal passage has been blasted out of the
-solid granite on the southern river-bank. Here can be readily studied
-the crystalline rocks of the Laurentian formation, which are described
-as "part of the oldest dry land on the face of the globe." It is this
-pass through the mountains, made by the Mohawk, that gives the Erie
-Canal and the Vanderbilt railways their low-level route between the
-Atlantic seaboard and the West. All the other trunk railways climb the
-Allegheny ranges and cross them at elevations of two thousand feet or
-more, while here the elevation is not four hundred feet, thus avoiding
-steep gradients and expensive hauling. The Rollaway stretches for a
-long distance, clothed to its summit with pines and birches.
-
-Beyond, the amber waters of Canada Creek flow in from the north,
-giving the Mohawk a largely increased current, and the land becomes a
-region of gentle hills, with meadows and herds, a scene of pastoral
-beauty, the great dairy region of New York. Here is Herkimer, which
-was an Indian frontier fort, and a few miles farther is Utica, the
-dairymen's and cheese-makers' headquarters, a city of fifty thousand
-people. The whole Mohawk valley for miles has an atmosphere of
-peacefulness and content, innumerable cows and sheep grazing and
-resting upon the rich pastures. The river is narrow and meanders
-slowly past Utica, which is built to the southward along the banks of
-the canal. This city also grew up around an Indian border post.
-General Schuyler, who came westward from Albany, seeking trade, built
-Fort Schuyler here in 1758, the grant of land being known as Cosby's
-Manor. Then a block-house was built, but the settlement, known as Old
-Fort Schuyler, grew very little until after the canal was opened.
-Utica had the honor of producing two of the leading men of New York,
-Roscoe Conkling and Horatio Seymour, the latter having been Governor
-of New York and the Democratic candidate for President when General
-Grant was first elected in 1868. The city rises gradually upon a
-gentle slope south of the Mohawk, until it reaches one hundred and
-fifty feet elevation, Genesee street, the chief highway, wide and
-attractive, extending back from the river and across the canal,
-bordered by elegant residences, fronted by lawns and fine shade trees.
-Its leading public institution is the State Lunatic Asylum, but its
-pride is the regulation of the butter and cheese trades of New York.
-
-In journeying through New York, it is noticed that there is an
-ambitious nomenclature. The towns are given classic names, as if there
-had been an early immigration of the ancient Greeks and Romans. Thus
-we were at Troy on the Hudson, and coming up the Mohawk have passed
-Fonda, Palatine bridge and Ilion on the route to Utica, while farther
-on are Rome and Verona. It seems that in the primitive days of New
-York old Simeon de Witt was the Surveyor General, and under his
-auspices the remorseless college graduate is said to have wandered
-over the country with instrument and map and scattered broadcast
-classic names. These flourish most in Western New York. Albion and
-Attica, Corfu and Palmyra, are near neighbors there, the latter being
-chiefly known to fame as the place where the original Mormon apostle,
-"Joe Smith," claimed to have found the sacred golden plates of the
-Mormon bible and the stone spectacles through which he interpreted the
-signs written upon them. Memphis is near by, and Macedon and Jordan
-are adjacent villages. Pompey, Virgil and Ulysses are named up, and
-Ovid is between Lakes Seneca and Cayuga, with Geneva at the foot of
-Seneca and Ithaca at the head of Cayuga. Auburn--"loveliest village of
-the plain"--is to the eastward, and Aurelius, Marcellus and Camillus
-are railway stations on the route to Syracuse, one of whose former
-names was Corinth. To the southward is Homer, having Nineveh and
-Manlius near by; Venice is not far away, and Babylon is down on Long
-Island. The Mohawk thus heads in classic ground, rising in the
-highlands of Oneida about twenty miles north of Rome, past which it
-flows a small and winding brook through the almost level country.
-Rome, unlike its ancient namesake, has no hills at all, but is built
-upon a plain, having grown up around the Indian frontier outpost of
-Fort Stanwix of the Revolution, the battle of Oriskany, in August,
-1777, which cut off the reinforcements going to Burgoyne at Saratoga,
-thus helping to defeat him, having been fought just outside its
-limits. There are about seventeen thousand people in Rome, which is a
-prominent lumber market, being at the junction of the Erie and Black
-River Canals, the latter fetching lumber down from Canada, which has
-come through Lake Ontario. From Rome the narrow Mohawk flows to Utica,
-and thence with broadening current onward to the Hudson, its whole
-length being about one hundred and forty miles. Its gentle course and
-pastoral beauty remind of the pleasant lines of that poet of nature,
-John Dyer:
-
-     "And see the rivers how they run
-     Through woods and meads, in shade and sun,
-     Sometimes swift, sometimes slow,--
-     Wave succeeding wave, they go
-     A various journey to the deep,
-     Like human life to endless sleep!"
-
-
-TRENTON FALLS.
-
-In the hills north of Utica, the West Canada Creek cuts its remarkable
-gorge at Trenton Falls. It is a vigorous stream, rising in the western
-slopes of the Adirondacks and flowing to the Mohawk. In getting down
-through the limestone rocks from the highlands to the plain adjacent
-to the river, it passes into the ravine, giving a magnificent display
-of chasms, cascades and rapids, in a gorge of such amazing
-construction that it is regarded as a wonder second only to Niagara.
-During the ages, the torrent has cut through over four hundred layers
-of the stratified limestone, exposing the geological formation to full
-view, with the fossil organic remains deposited there as the world was
-built. In descending the ravine, there are five prominent cataracts,
-besides rapids, all compressed within two miles distance, the
-aggregate descent being three hundred and twelve feet. This wonderful
-gorge was the Indian Kauy-a-hoo-ra, or the "Leaping Water," and from
-its color they called the stream Kahnata, the "amber water," a name
-readily corrupted into Canada Creek. The Dutch called the place after
-the Grand Pensioner of Holland, Oldenbarneveld, he having sent out the
-first colonists under a grant known as the "Holland Patent." It was in
-this region Grover Cleveland spent his early life. A grandson of Roger
-Sherman, who had charge of the Unitarian church here, is regarded as
-the discoverer of the ravine in 1805, and he did much to make it known
-to the world. His grave is within sound of the Sherman Fall.
-
-Entering the chasm at the lower end, where the stream passes out from
-the rock terrace to the plain, the ravine is found to be about one
-hundred feet deep, the almost perpendicular rocky walls built up in
-level layers as if by hands, the well-defined separate strata being
-from one inch to a foot in thickness, and narrowest at the bottom.
-Hemlocks and cedars crown the blackened rocks, their branches hanging
-over the abyss, while far below, the boisterous torrent rushes across
-the pavement of broad flagstones forming its bed. Descending to the
-bottom, the impression is like being in a deep vault, this
-subterranean world disclosing operations lasting through ages, during
-which the rocks have slowly yielded to the resistless power of the
-water and frost that has gradually cut the chasm. Fossils and
-petrifactions found in the deepest strata are trod upon, and each thin
-layer of the walls, one imposed upon the other, shows the deposit of a
-supervening flood happening successively, yet eternity only knows how
-long ago. And ages afterwards the torrent came, and during more
-successive ages carved out the gorge, until it has penetrated to the
-bottom of the limestone.
-
-The torrent flows briskly out of the long and narrow vault, while some
-distance above is the lowest of the series of cataracts--the Sherman
-Fall--where the water plunges over a parapet of rock forty feet high
-into a huge basin it has worked out. The amber-colored waters boil
-furiously in this cauldron. Above the Sherman Fall the stream flows
-through rapids, the chasm broadening and the lofty walls rising higher
-as the hill-tops are more elevated, mounting to two hundred feet above
-the torrent at a lofty point called the Pinnacle. The floor of the
-ravine is level, and becomes quite wide, with massive slabs, weighing
-tons, resting upon it, showing the power of freshets which bring them
-down from above, and will ultimately carry them completely through the
-gorge to its outlet, so resistless is the sweep of the raging flood at
-such times, when every bound these huge stones make over the rocky
-floor causes the neighboring hills to vibrate, the stifled thunder of
-their progress being heard above the roar of waters. At the head of
-this widened gorge is the High Falls, in a grand amphitheatre, the
-cataract broken into parts and combining all the varieties of cascade
-and waterfall, being one hundred feet high, and the walls of the chasm
-rising eighty feet higher to the surface of the land above, which
-keeps on rising as the ends of the limestone strata are surmounted.
-The top of this High Fall is another perpendicular wall stretching
-diagonally across the chasm, and below it the protruding layers of
-rock form a sort of huge stairway. Down this the waters fall in
-varying fashion, finally condensing as a mass of whirling, shifting
-foam into a dark pool beneath. This splendid cataract is fringed about
-with evergreens and shrubbery, for between the dark thin slabs of
-limestone are inserted thinner strata of crumbling shale, and these
-give root-hold to the cedars and other nodding branches clinging to
-the walls of the ravine. The waterfall begins at the top with the
-color of melted topaz, and is unlike anything elsewhere seen, for the
-hemlocks and spruces of the mountain regions impart the amber hue to
-the torrent. Descending, the changing tints become steadily lighter,
-until the brown turns to a creamy white, which is finally lost under
-the cloud of spray at the foot of the lower stairway slide, while
-beyond, the water rushes away black in hue and driving forward almost
-as if shot from a cannon.
-
-Above is another great amphitheatre, floored with rocky layers, upon
-which the stream flows in gentler course. In this is the Milldam Fall,
-a ledge about fourteen feet high, over which the waters make a uniform
-flow all across the ravine. This has above it an expanded platform of
-level slabs almost a hundred feet wide, fringed on each side with
-cedars, the attractive place being called the Alhambra. At the upper
-end a naked rock protrudes about sixty feet high, from which a stream
-falls as a perpetual shower-bath. The creek rushes down another
-complex stairway in the Alhambra Cascade. The ravine above suddenly
-contracts, and the walls beyond change their forms into shapes of
-curves and projections. Another cascade of whirling, foaming waters is
-passed, and a new amphitheatre entered, where great slabs of rock have
-fallen from the walls and lie on the floor, ready to be driven down
-the ravine by freshets. The torrent here develops another curious
-formation, known as the Rocky Heart. Curved holes are being rounded
-out by whirling boulders of granite, which are kept constantly
-revolving by the running water, and thus readily act upon the softer
-limestones. The chasm goes still farther up to the Prospect Falls, a
-cataract twenty feet high, near the beginning of the ravine.
-
-Canada Creek passes out of the lower end of the gorge, where the
-limestone layers are exhausted, and their edges fall off in terraces
-sharply to the lower level, and almost down to the surface of the
-stream. All about the broadened channel, as it flows away towards the
-Mohawk, lie the huge slabs and boulders driven down through the chasm
-by repeated freshets, with the amber waters foaming among them. This
-wonderful ravine is a geological mine, disclosing the transition
-rocks, the first containing fossil organic remains. In the lower part
-of the chasm they are compact carbonate of lime, extremely hard and
-brittle, and a dark blue, almost black, in color. At the High Fall,
-and above to the Rocky Heart, the upper strata are from twelve to
-eighteen inches thick, and composed of the crystallized fragments of
-the vertebrć of crinoidea and the shells of terebratulć. These fossils
-of the Silurian period are numerous. The strata throughout the chasm
-are remarkably horizontal, varying, as they ascend, from one inch to
-eighteen inches in thickness. They are very distinct, and separated by
-a fine shaly substance which disintegrates upon exposure to the air or
-moisture. From the top to the bottom of the ravine small cracks
-extend down perpendicularly, and run in a straight line through the
-whole mass across the stream. These divide the pavements into
-rhomboidal slabs. The most interesting fossils are found, among them
-the large trilobite, a crustacean that could both swim and crawl upon
-the bottom of the sea. This extraordinary place is in reality a
-Titanic fissure, cracked through the crust of mother earth, down which
-roars and dashes a tremendous torrent.
-
-
-THE LAKES OF NEW YORK.
-
-The northwestern boundary of the State of New York is formed by Lake
-Ontario, of which the St. Lawrence River is the outlet, flowing
-northeastward into Canada. Ontario is the smallest and the lowest in
-level of the group of Great Lakes, its name given by the Indians
-meaning the "beautiful water." It is about one hundred and eighty
-miles long, and its surface is two hundred and thirty-one feet above
-tide, but it is fully five hundred feet deep, so that it has more
-depth below the ocean level than the lake surface is above. It has a
-marked feature along its southern shore, where a narrow elevation
-known as the "Lake Ridge" extends nearly parallel with the edge of the
-lake, and from four to eight miles distant. The height of this ridge
-usually exceeds one hundred and sixty feet above the lake level, and
-in some places is nearly two hundred feet, and it is, throughout, from
-five to twenty feet above the immediate surface of the land, there
-being a width at the summit of some thirty feet, from which the ground
-slopes away on both sides. This ridge is regarded as an ancient
-shore-line formed by the waters of the lake, and the chief public
-highway on the southern side of the lake is laid for many miles along
-its summit. The main tributaries of Ontario from New York are the
-Black, Oswego and Genesee Rivers. The Black River gathers various
-streams draining the western slopes of the Adirondacks, and its name
-comes from the dark amber hue of the waters. It flows northwest
-through a forest-covered region, pours down Lyons Falls, a fine
-cataract of seventy feet, passes the manufacturing towns of Lowville
-and Watertown, and finally discharges by the broadened estuary of
-Black River Bay into the east end of Lake Ontario. From Rome, on the
-Mohawk, a canal is constructed northward to the Black River.
-
-Westward from Rome the land is an almost level plain, rising into the
-Onondaga highlands to the southward. Cazenovia Lake, among these
-hills, sends its outlet northward over the plain to Oneida Lake. There
-are various little lakelets between, but the ground is impregnated
-with sulphur, so that their waters are bitter, and one is consequently
-named Lake Sodom. Oneida is a large lake, twenty-three miles long and
-several miles broad, with low and marshy shores. In the fertile dairy
-region to the southeastward is located the "Inspiration Community" of
-Oneida, founded in 1847 by John Humphrey Noyes, a Vermont preacher. In
-1834, when twenty-three years old, he experienced what he called a
-"second conversion," and announced himself a "perfectionist." He
-preached his new faith and finally established the Oneida Community
-for its demonstration, with about three hundred members. They maintain
-the perfect equality of women with men in all social and business
-relations, and have become quite wealthy as manufacturers, farmers and
-dairymen. The outlet of Oneida Lake, and in fact the outlet streams of
-all the lakes of Central New York, discharge into Oswego River, which
-flows northward into Lake Ontario. Oswego means "the small water
-flowing into that which is large," and the port at its mouth, noted
-for its flour and starch-mills, has about twenty-five thousand people,
-and is the largest city on the New York shore of Lake Ontario. This
-was an early French settlement in the seventeenth century, when the
-river was known by them as the "river of the Onondagas."
-
-The great plain south of Lake Ontario, which is believed to have been
-itself formerly a lake bed, rises into highlands farther southward,
-and the noted group of lakes of Central New York are scattered in the
-valleys which are deeply fissured into these highlands. Most of these
-lakes are long and narrow, and they nestle in almost parallel valleys,
-their waters occupying the bottoms of deep ravines. These lakes
-present much fine scenery, and their shores are among the most
-attractive parts of New York. They display vineyards and fruit
-orchards and extensive pastures, and their present names are the
-original titles given them by the Iroquois, many of whom still live on
-reservations near them. Southwest of Oneida is Onondaga Lake, and
-farther west Skaneateles and Owasco. Then beyond is the larger Cayuga
-Lake, and to the westward Seneca, the largest of the group, sixty
-miles long, elevated two hundred feet above Lake Ontario, and of great
-depth, estimated to exceed six hundred feet. This lake was never known
-to be frozen over but once, and that was late in March many years ago;
-steamboats traverse it every day in the year. Cayuga Lake is of
-similar character, but of slightly less size and elevation, and in
-some places is so deep as to be almost unfathomable. These parallel
-lakes are separated by an elevated ridge only a few miles wide, and
-their great depth, descending much below the level of Ontario, into
-which they discharge, gives evidence to the geologists that their
-waters originally drained to the southward. Westward of Seneca is
-Keuka or the Crooked Lake, the Indian name meaning "the lake of the
-Bended Elbow." It is a pretty sheet of water, having an angle in its
-centre, from which starts out another long and narrow branch, so that
-its spreading arms make it look much like the aboriginal
-signification. It is elevated two hundred and seventy-seven feet
-above the level of Seneca Lake, which is only seven miles away.
-Beyond Keuka is Canandaigua Lake, the westernmost of the group.
-
-
-THE SYRACUSE SALT-MAKERS.
-
-Onondaga Lake is comparatively small, being six miles long and about a
-mile broad, and it is noted for its salt wells, which have made the
-prosperity of the city of Syracuse, the largest in Central New York,
-built along Onondaga Creek south of the lake, and upon the slopes of
-the higher hills to the eastward. An Indian trader started the town in
-the eighteenth century, and soon afterwards Asa Danforth began making
-salt at Salt Point on the lake, calling his village Salina. When the
-Erie Canal came along the place grew rapidly, and it is now a great
-canal and railroad centre, with lines radiating in various directions,
-and from it the Oswego Canal goes northward to Lake Ontario. The city
-has a population approximating a hundred thousand. The salt springs
-come out of the rocks of the Upper Silurian period, and are located
-chiefly in the marshes bordering Onondaga Lake. The brine wells are
-bored in the lowlands surrounding the lake to a depth of two hundred
-to over three hundred feet. The State of New York controls the wells
-and pumps the brine to supply the evaporating works, which are private
-establishments, a royalty of one cent per bushel being charged. The
-main impurity that has to be driven out of the brine is sulphate of
-lime, and the finer product has a high reputation, the "Onondaga
-Factory-Filled Salt" being greatly esteemed. The salt wells were known
-to the Indians, and the French Jesuit missionaries found them as early
-as 1650, taking salt back to Canada. In 1789 they yielded five hundred
-bushels, and they have since produced as high as nine millions of
-bushels a year, the annual product now being about three millions. The
-brine is first pumped into small shallow vats, where it remains until
-the carbonic acid gas escapes and the iron is deposited as an oxide.
-It is then led to the evaporating vats, all processes being used,
-solar as well as boiling. The land bordering the marshy shores of
-Onondaga Lake is framed around by rows of factories and heating
-furnaces, while out on the marshes are clusters of little brown
-houses, each covering a well and pump. From there the brine is led
-through conduits made of bored logs, called the "salt logs," to the
-evaporating vats and factories, some going long distances. Everything
-throughout the whole district is profusely saturated with salt.
-
-Syracuse is one of the handsomest cities of the Empire State. The New
-York Central Railroad passes through the centre of the business
-section, the locomotives and ordinary traffic sharing the main street
-in common, in front of the chief hotels and stores, for thus has the
-town grown up. Just northward, the Erie Canal also goes through the
-heart of the city, giving on moonlight nights scenes that are almost
-Venetian. The streets are broad, and ornamental squares are frequent,
-the chief residential highways--James, Genesee and University
-Streets--being bordered with imposing dwellings surrounded by
-extensive grounds. Magnificent trees line the streets and broad lawns
-stretch back to the dwellings, everything being open to public view,
-so that in these parts the town is practically a vast park. To the
-eastward rises University Hill, crowned by the buildings of Syracuse
-University, a Methodist foundation having eleven hundred students.
-Holden Observatory adjoins the grand graystone main college building,
-and from this high hill there is a magnificent view over the city and
-the oval-shaped lake and its salt marsh border off to the northwest.
-The southern view is enclosed by the Onondaga highlands, out of which
-Onondaga Creek comes through a deep and winding valley. Back among
-these dark blue distant hills still live in pastoral simplicity the
-remnants of the "Men of the Mountain,"--the Onondagas,--the ruling
-power of the famous Iroquois Confederation.
-
-
-AUBURN, ITHACA AND CORNELL.
-
-Westward from Syracuse the country is full of lakes. Otisco Lake,--the
-"Bitter-nut Hickory,"--is an oval four miles long, embosomed in hills.
-To the northwest of Otisco is Skaneateles Lake--the "Long Water"--the
-most picturesque of all, set among most imposing hills, which,
-notwithstanding the lake is elevated eight hundred and sixty feet,
-still rise twelve hundred feet above its surface, giving the waters
-the deeply blue tinge of an Italian scene. This lovely lake is sixteen
-miles long, and in no place more than a mile and a half wide, its
-outlet having a fine cataract. To the westward is Owasco Lake--"the
-bridge on the water floating"--eleven miles long and a mile wide,
-walled in by rocky bluffs, yet having its shores diversified by
-meadows and farm land. About two miles northward, on its outlet, is
-the busy manufacturing city of Auburn, with thirty thousand people,
-which was the home of William H. Seward, Governor and Senator from New
-York, who was President Lincoln's Secretary of State during the Civil
-War. Its most extensive establishment is the Auburn Prison, covering
-about eighteen acres, enclosed by walls four feet thick and twelve to
-thirty-five feet high, there being imprisoned usually about twelve
-hundred convicts. The surface of the city is varied by hills, making
-handsome villa sites, and the Owasco Lake outlet flows down a series
-of rapids, falling one hundred and sixty feet, and utilized by no less
-than nine dams to turn the wheels of many mills. Captain Hardenburgh
-was the first settler here in 1793, the original name being
-"Hardenburgh's Corners." On Fort Hill, one of the highest elevations,
-the top of which is supposed to be an eminence originally raised by
-the ancient Mound-Builders, and was an Iroquois fortification, is the
-Cemetery where are interred the remains of William H. Seward, who died
-in 1872.
-
-After crossing a rich grazing country, farther to the westward is
-Cayuga Lake--the name meaning "Where they take canoes out"--stretching
-from the level plain of Central New York southward into the highlands,
-making the watershed between the affluents of the St. Lawrence and the
-Susquehanna. Progressing southward along the long and narrow lake, the
-hills are found to grow steadily higher, and they reach an elevation
-of several hundred feet above its surface. The bordering rocky
-buttresses rise up as columns and walls, with accurately-squared
-corners, their perpendicular stratification making the flagstone
-layers that have been loosened by the frost stand on edge and
-separately, seeming almost ready to topple over, while heaps of broken
-fragments are strewn at their bases, which, being pulverized by the
-action of frost and water into small particles, produce a smooth and
-narrow beach. At the head of the lake the deep valley is prolonged
-farther southward between even higher enclosing ridges, the Cayuga
-Inlet winding through it. Here, about a mile from the lake, is a
-flourishing town of twelve thousand people, reproducing the name of
-the Ionian Island that was the fabled kingdom of Ulysses--Ithaca. It
-is the centre of a grazing region, producing cheese, butter and wool,
-and its water-power has given some manufacturing activity, but it is
-chiefly known to fame from the surrounding galaxy of waterfalls and
-the possession of Cornell University.
-
-Cayuga Lake, at its head, has a rugged verge, and in the glens and
-gorges descending four to five hundred feet from the hills to the lake
-and its prolonged southern valley, are some of nature's most beautiful
-sanctuaries. Fall Creek has eight cataracts within a mile, all of them
-charming. It comes tumbling down the Triphammer Fall into a basin,
-then over one cascade after another until it plunges down a foaming
-precipice and finally goes over the Ithaca Fall, one hundred and sixty
-feet high and about as wide. Alongside the lake, near the outlet of
-this brook, are remarkable formations,--Tower Rock, a perfect columnar
-structure forty feet high, and Castle Rock, a massive wall with a
-grand arched doorway opened through it--both strange freaks of nature.
-The ravine of Cascadilla Creek to the southward is also filled with
-cascades, and on an elevated plateau between the two gorges is Cornell
-University. The most noted waterfall of Cayuga is the Taghanic--the
-original Indian word meaning "Water enough." A stream flows in from
-the western hills a short distance north of Ithaca, and the fall is
-two hundred and fifteen feet high and some distance back in the ridge.
-Its interesting features are the great height, the very deep ravine
-and its sharply-defined outlines, and the splendid views; and its
-admirers regard it as a worthy rival of the much-praised Swiss
-Staubbach. The water breaks over a cleanly-cut table-rock, falls
-perpendicularly, and excepting in freshets, it changes into clouds of
-spray before reaching the bottom. The rocky enclosing walls rise four
-hundred feet high around it, being regularly squared as if laid by
-human hands, and this is the highest American waterfall east of the
-Rockies.
-
-High above Ithaca, standing upon the brow of the ridge making its
-eastern border, are the imposing buildings of Cornell University,
-devoted to the free education of both sexes in all branches of
-knowledge, the spreading college campus elevated four hundred feet
-above the lake. Here are educated eighteen hundred students, who have
-about one hundred and eighty instructors. The College of Forestry,
-established in 1898, is the only one in the country. The University
-has munificent endowments, becoming constantly more valuable, as lands
-of steadily increasing worth are among the holdings, the aggregate
-being estimated at $8,000,000. At the edge of Ithaca is the mansion
-which was the home of Ezra Cornell the founder, who amassed a fortune
-mainly in telegraphy, he then being at the head of the Western Union
-Company. To his generosity was added the proceeds of the ample school
-lands of New York State, the gift of the Federal Government, which he
-selected with scrupulous care, and these gave the University its
-start. He died in 1874. Others gave supplementary gifts. John McGraw
-of Ithaca gave McGraw College, the central building on the campus, two
-hundred feet long, with a tower rising one hundred and twenty feet,
-containing the great University bell with full chimes, and having a
-view forty miles northward along the lake and almost half as far
-southward through the deep valley. This structure is flanked by the
-North and South University buildings, each one hundred and sixty-five
-feet long, all three substantially constructed of dark blue stone with
-light gray limestone trimmings. There are also the Sibley Building,
-and the magnificent Cascadilla Hall, nearly two hundred feet long,
-which is a residence for instructors and students. The Sage College
-for females and other handsome buildings adorn the campus, including
-an armory, for everything is taught, and a battery of mounted cannon
-guards the approach to the grounds.
-
-
-HAVANA AND WATKINS GLENS.
-
-Seneca Lake, the largest of the group, is a short distance west of
-Cayuga, and its prolonged southern valley is bordered by ridges rising
-even higher, through which the streams have carved remarkable gorges.
-Two of the larger torrents coming into the prolonged Seneca Valley
-have hewn out of the hillsides, one on either hand, romantic fissures
-of wide renown,--the Havana and Watkins Glens. The Havana Glen is
-three miles south of the lake and about a mile long, being cut out of
-the eastern wall of the valley. The ravine is steep, having quite a
-large stream. Its characteristic is that the water and frost have made
-great fissures and caverns, but so fashioned them that all the joints
-and corners are right-angles. The cascades are successions of ledges,
-the water apparently running down a staircase. If the stream runs over
-a waterfall, it comes from a level ledge as if running over a wall. If
-it rushes through a gorge, all the corners are square, the sides
-perpendicular and the bottom level. If a brigade of stonemasons had
-built the place it could hardly have been more accurately constructed.
-Several of the cascades are magnificent, the "Bridal Veil" and the
-"Curtain Falls" going down a maze of rocky ledges, their frothy waters
-making resplendent sheets of exquisite lacework. In one place the
-stream flows through a perfectly square grotto known as the "Council
-Chamber," entering this great hall by a right-angled bend from an
-adjoining square-cut grotto of similar character. Each is a perfect
-apartment, the water rushing from one to the other through an
-entry-like passage, from which it makes a square turn. The glen is
-quite steep, and its "Central Gorge" is a narrow fissure, clean-cut
-and deep, making a half-dozen right-angled bends, each lower than the
-other, the torrent rushing around the sharp corners and over the
-straight edges with wild swiftness and clouds of spray. The visitor
-mounts ladders and steps through the spray, and the glen can be
-followed a long distance upward past many cascades, its
-picturesqueness being enhanced by the huge tree-trunks the torrent
-occasionally brings down and lodges in the many angular bends.
-
-  [Illustration: _Watkins Glen_]
-
-Watkins Glen, carved out of the western wall of the valley just at the
-head of Seneca Lake, is constructed upon a grander scale, yet entirely
-different. The torrent has hewn it among similarly laminated rocks,
-but the erosive processes have made vast amphitheatres, their great
-size dwarfing the diminutive brook flowing like a thread at the
-bottom. The entrance, level with the floor of the valley, presents the
-same squared and angular features as Havana Glen, but inside it is a
-grand amphitheatre enclosed within perpendicular stone walls three
-hundred feet high, and is proportionately spacious. It is quickly
-seen, however, that within the grand hall the rocky layers, instead of
-being squared and angular, have been smoothed and rounded by the
-waters, the small but dashing stream flowing over the floor by
-graceful curves through circular pools and winding channels. This glen
-is built on a prodigious scale, being over three miles long, and its
-head rising eight hundred feet above the valley. A narrow cascade
-eighty feet high falls at the far end of the entrance amphitheatre,
-and climbing up, the visitor enters "Glen Alpha," the first of the
-vast chambers. There are successive glens and caverns as one proceeds
-onward and upward through the "Cavern Gorge" and "Glen Obscura," where
-a hotel and chalet are perched on the rocky ledges at four hundred
-feet elevation. Above is the "Sylvan Gorge," and then the fissure
-broadens out into its grandest section, the "Glen Cathedral," a
-magnificent nave, with walls rising nearly three hundred feet, the
-rocky layers giving it a level stone floor. It has the "Pulpit Rock"
-and "Baptismal Font," and climbing out one hundred and seventy feet
-upward alongside a cascade, the visitor then goes onward past more
-grottoes, falls and gorges for a long distance, until the "Glen Omega"
-is reached at the top. Here an airy railway bridge of one of the
-Vanderbilt roads spans it at two hundred feet height above the floor.
-
-The shores of Seneca Lake, as one progresses northward, present
-various pretty little glens cut deeply into the bordering hills, and
-as these become lower there are vineyards and pastures displayed.
-Gradually the bluffs disappear, giving place to extensive farm lands
-as the level plain at the outlet is reached. Here, in imitation of a
-noble Swiss example, the town of Geneva has been built at the foot of
-the lake, its chief street extending along the western bank, with
-villas peeping out from the foliage. This is a prominent nursery town,
-florists and seedsmen being its chief merchants, and a large part of
-the adjacent country being devoted to seed-growing and propagation.
-Hobart College, a leading Episcopal foundation, is at Geneva. The
-outlet of the lake is the Seneca River, having an attractive
-waterfall, and after gathering the outflow of this group of Central
-New York lakes, it goes away northeastward to Oswego River.
-
-
-CANISTEO AND CHEMUNG RIVERS.
-
-There are yet two other lakes westward of Seneca, Keuka and
-Canandaigua. This region was generally first peopled by the Puritans,
-but others also came in, and at the outlet of Keuka is the town of
-Penn Yan, so called from the Pennsylvanians and Yankees who settled
-it, their descendants being the shrewd and thrifty race known as the
-"New York Yankees." There are extensive vineyards on Keuka where are
-made some of the best American clarets and champagnes, the centre of
-that industry being Hammondsport, at the head of the lake. Beyond is
-Canandaigua Lake, the town of Canandaigua standing at its northern end
-upon a surface gently sloping towards its shores. The word means the
-"place chosen for a village." The heads of all these lakes are in the
-southern highlands, making the watershed, south of which the streams
-are gathered into the Canisteo River, meaning "the board on the
-water," which flows into the Chemung, the "big horn," and thence by
-the Susquehanna down through Pennsylvania to the Chesapeake. The Erie
-Railway, coming eastward by a wild and lonely route across the
-Allegheny ranges, goes down the pretty Canisteo Valley to
-Hornellsville, a purely railroad town of twelve thousand people, which
-has grown up around the shops and stations. Below, the valley
-broadens, and is picturesque between its high bordering ridges, the
-stream meandering in wayward fashion over the almost flat intervale.
-It passes Addison and the town with the unique name of Painted Post,
-so called from an Indian monument inscribed in colors, and as the
-Canisteo River broadens with the contribution of its swelling
-tributaries, it reaches the active manufacturing city of Corning,
-having ten thousand people, and here falls into the Chemung, which
-comes up northward out of the Allegheny ranges in Pennsylvania to meet
-it. The Chemung Valley is a broad and fertile section of flat and
-highly cultivated bottom lands, having in its heart the city of
-Elmira, with thirty-five thousand inhabitants and many industrial
-establishments, making it a busy railroad centre. Here is the Elmira
-Reformatory, the Elmira Female College, and the various "Water Cures,"
-a species of remedial establishment flourishing throughout Western New
-York, where there is apparently no limit to the efficacy or
-bountifulness of the water-supply. The broad Chemung flows through
-Elmira and beyond down its rich and wide-spreading valley, until at
-Athens it loses itself in the swelling waters of the Susquehanna.
-
-
-THE VALLEY OF THE GENESEE.
-
-Among the rugged mountains of Potter County, in the northern part of
-Pennsylvania, the highest land in the State, are the springs feeding
-the headwaters of three noted rivers, seeking the ocean in opposite
-directions. The Allegheny flows westward and afterwards southward to
-the Ohio; the west branch of the Susquehanna goes eastward to break
-through the entire Allegheny chain in seeking the Atlantic; and the
-smaller stream, the Genesee, flows northward through New York between
-two long Allegheny ridges, the chief affluent of Lake Ontario. The
-Genesee passes through a valley of great beauty and gives water-power
-to many mills, a canal also being constructed to improve its
-navigation. After a romantic course of one hundred and fifty miles it
-empties into the lake at Charlotte, seven miles north of Rochester.
-For much of the distance its course is through a magnificent gorge,
-with a succession of cataracts that are renowned in American scenery.
-Where it first attacks the highlands of New York to break out of them,
-it plunges deeper and deeper down a series of grand cataracts at
-Portage. Here the Erie Railway, coming from the westward, has boldly
-thrown a stupendous bridge across the tremendous chasm and almost over
-the top of the highest cataract. The river makes a gorge in the
-yielding rocks, sinking from two hundred and fifty to six hundred
-feet deep, and here are the Portage Falls, one cataract after another
-making the stream-bed lower, the walls of the wild ravine rising
-almost perpendicularly. The railway, crossing at the most favorable
-place, has built one of the highest bridges in the country, elevated
-two hundred and thirty-five feet above the river, resting upon
-lightly-framed steel trusses. From the car windows the river can be
-seen far below in what seems a narrow fissure, the current boiling
-along and then tumbling down the cataract, the edge of which crosses
-the river diagonally almost beneath the bridge. The waters pour into a
-chasm seeming almost bottomless as the spray obscures it. The ravine
-extends northward, and in the distance the waters go over a second
-fall and then a third, the chasm finally curving around to the right,
-making a bend, closing the view more than a mile away, with an
-enormous wall of bare rock. The three cataracts fall respectively
-seventy, one hundred and ten and one hundred and fifty feet--called
-the Upper, Middle and Lower Portage Falls--and for several miles
-below, the river flows through the deeper ravine amid equally
-magnificent surroundings.
-
-This descent brings the Genesee River down from the higher plateau to
-what is known as the "Genesee Level," for at the end of the defile,
-fifteen miles below Portage, it flows out of the highlands over
-pleasant lands and with gentler current. Here on the "Genesee Flats"
-is the village of Mount Morris, and near it has been placed, alongside
-the ravine, the rude log cabin, which was originally on the higher
-land above Portage, the Indian "Council House of Cascadea," where the
-Iroquois chiefs often met. At the removal in 1872, the services were
-conducted in the Senecas language, several Indians attending, and the
-identical "pipe of peace" given by Washington to Red Jacket was passed
-around. Nearby the river emerges through a Titanic gateway in the
-rocks to the pastoral region stretching far to the northward, while
-far over on the eastern verge is the village of Geneseo, sloping up
-the ascent. Its Indian name, meaning the "beautiful valley," is also
-given the river. After meandering placidly for miles across these
-flats, the Genesee River reaches the "Flour City of the West,"
-Rochester, the storage and distributing mart for this fertile valley,
-getting its original start and title from the prolific wheat crops.
-And here the Genesee plunges down another waterfall which gives power
-to the Rochester mills.
-
-When De Witt Clinton, in 1810, exploring the route for the Erie Canal,
-crossed the river here, there was not a house. The place was
-afterwards the "Hundred Acre Tract," planned in 1812 for a settlement
-by three adventurous frontiersmen, and the town was named for one of
-them, Nathaniel Rochester. After a few years, the spreading fame of
-the fertility of the Genesee Valley attracted a large population, and
-it became known as the garden spot of the then "West," so that out of
-this grew the flour-mills which have continued to be Rochester's chief
-industry. The Genesee River flows through with swift current, the Erie
-Canal being carried over on a massive stone aqueduct and the New York
-Central Railroad upon a wide bridge, and about a hundred yards beyond,
-the river plunges down the great Rochester Fall. The ledge over which
-it tumbles is a perpendicular wall, straight and regular in formation,
-and almost without fragments of rock at the foot, so that the fall is
-a clear one. The shores below are lined with huge stone mills and
-breweries, to which races on each bank conduct the water from a dam
-above the railroad bridge. This Rochester Fall, down which Sam Patch
-jumped to his death, is ninety-six feet high. Below it, the river
-flows through a somewhat wider channel, gradually bending to the left,
-and then it goes down a second cataract of twenty-five feet height,
-and finally, at some distance, over a third and broken fall of
-eighty-four feet. As at Portage, this second succession of triple
-cataracts sinks the river bed deeper and deeper into the gorge, so
-that the enclosing walls are in some places over three hundred feet
-high. This gorge is all within the limits of the city, the falls and
-rapids having a total descent of two hundred and sixty feet. This
-immense water-power, with the traffic facilities of canal and railway,
-have made the city, so that there is a population of a hundred and
-forty thousand around the Genesee Falls, and manufactures of flour,
-beer, clothing, leather and other articles, valued at $75,000,000
-annually. In the neighboring region there is also extensive
-seed-growing, the Rochester nurseries occupying miles of the level
-surface. Rochester University has two hundred students and valuable
-geological collections. The city has been a headquarters for the
-Spiritualists and advocates of Women's Rights. The Genesee emerges
-from the rocky gorge below Rochester, and flows in more tranquil
-course northward through a ravine carved deeply into the table-land,
-to Lake Ontario, at the little port of Charlotte.
-
-
-LOCKPORT, CHAUTAUQUA AND ERIE.
-
-Westward from Rochester the country is underlaid by red sandstones,
-and at Medina quarries are plentiful, this reproduction of the Arabian
-"City of the Prophet" being an extensive supplier of these dark-red
-Medina sandstones, as the geologists call them. Beyond, at Lockport,
-the higher terrace is reached, and here the Erie Canal is raised by an
-imposing series of five double locks from the Genesee level up to the
-Lake Erie level. Through these locks and by means of a subsidiary
-canal an immense water-power is obtained which is utilized by the
-Lockport mills. The much lower Genesee level is marked by the base of
-a bluff, stretching through the town and across the adjacent region,
-evidently the bank of an ancient lake.
-
-In western New York a high ridge crosses the country south of Lake
-Erie, and to the southward of its most elevated portion there
-stretches the elongated Chautauqua Lake, almost bisected by two
-jutting points at its centre. This charming lake is eighteen miles
-long, three or four miles wide, and elevated seven hundred and thirty
-feet above Lake Erie, its outlet draining southward into a tributary
-of the Allegheny River. Its elevation above tide is nearly thirteen
-hundred feet. The low hills enclosing it are popular summer resorts,
-and on the western bank in the season are drawn enormous crowds to the
-Chautauqua Assembly, which has established the "Summer School of
-Philosophy" for education. There are often twenty to thirty thousand
-people here at one time, and the plan has been so successful that it
-has various imitators elsewhere, the "Chautauqua idea" being varying
-instruction with recreation. The Indians named this lake, from the
-mists arising, Chautauqua, or "the foggy place." Beyond this popular
-resort the land falls away, and crossing the New York western boundary
-into the "Pennsylvania Triangle," a jutting corner thrust up to Lake
-Erie, a fine harbor is found at Erie, known in earlier history by its
-French name of Presque Isle. This triangle of the Keystone State,
-giving about forty miles of coast-line on the lake, has a history.
-The early surveyors discovered that, owing to misdescriptions in
-various English grants, this large triangular tract was, from a legal
-standpoint, "nowhere." It was north of Pennsylvania, west of New York
-and east of the Connecticut Western Reserve, which became part of
-Ohio. Pennsylvania finally bought it, paying the United States
-Government, in 1792, $150,640 for it, and also getting the Indian
-title for Ł1200. It was a good purchase, for Erie harbor is the best
-on the lake. Erie has about fifty thousand people, and is in a
-picturesque situation, owing to the beauty of the bay and the outlying
-island, which was formerly a peninsula. There is additional protection
-by a breakwater, making an extensive basin with spacious docks that
-have a large trade. The French were the early settlers, building their
-"Fort de la Presque Isle" in 1749, which was one of the chain of
-outposts they projected between the St. Lawrence and the Ohio. It was
-here that Commodore Perry hastily built the rude fleet with which he
-gained the noted victory over the Anglo-Canadian fleet on Lake Erie in
-1813, and back here he afterwards in triumph towed his prizes. The
-remains of his flagship lie in the harbor. Perry's guns were the
-heaviest in that memorable contest for control of the lake, and
-therefore he won. In Lake Side Cemetery is buried Captain Charles
-Vernon Gridley, who commanded Admiral Dewey's flagship, the "Olympia,"
-at the battle of Manila Bay in 1898.
-
-
-THE CITY OF BUFFALO.
-
-Dunkirk, in New York, northeast of Erie, is another harbor on the
-lake, and a terminal of the Erie Railway, the land hereabout being the
-monotonous level plain of western New York. Rounding the eastern end
-of Lake Erie, at the head of its outlet stream, the Niagara River, is
-Buffalo, the chief port of the lake and the metropolis of western New
-York. It is surrounded for miles upon the level land with railway
-terminals and car-yards, amid which factories, breweries,
-coal-pockets, cattle-pens and grain elevators are distributed. This
-great city, which has grown to four hundred thousand population, takes
-it name from the American bison, who roamed in large herds over the
-lands adjacent to Lake Erie as late as 1720, and thus gave the name to
-Buffalo Creek. The city covers a broad surface at the foot of Lake
-Erie, and is coeval with the nineteenth century, having been founded
-in 1801; but in the earlier years it was only a military post, and did
-not assume a commercial standing or begin to grow much until after the
-opening of the Erie Canal. The neighboring post of Niagara, a short
-distance down that river, was of more importance in the early days of
-the frontier, for it was on Niagara River, in 1669, that the Sieur de
-La Salle, who described the frozen stream as "like a plain paved with
-polished marble," built and in the following summer launched the
-"Griffin," the first rude vessel that explored the Upper Lakes.
-Afterwards one or two trading cabins appeared on Buffalo Creek, and
-then there was constructed a stockade fort. For thirty years the
-hunters and traders fought the savages and captured wild beasts, and
-then, after an interval of peace, the War of 1812 came with new
-ravages, during which the little settlement around the stockade at
-Buffalo was burnt by the British, who held the fort at the entrance to
-Niagara River. When the Erie Canal was opened, the expansion of the
-settlement became rapid, and its eligible position at the point where
-the lake commerce had to connect with the canal and the railways
-leading to the Atlantic seaboard has since given full scope to
-business enterprise and made it a large and wealthy city.
-
-The Buffalo suburbs are gridironed by railroads, and their terminals
-spread along the water-front and the sinuosities of Buffalo Creek. The
-grain elevators, as in all the lake cities, are a prominent feature,
-and they stand like huge monsters, forty of them, with high heads and
-long trunks along the creek and canal basins as if waiting for their
-prey. The fleets of vessels come over the lakes laden with grain from
-the West; tugs take them to one of these monsters, and down out of the
-long neck is plunged a trunk deep into the vessel's hold, which sucks
-up all the grain. It is stored and weighed and sent on its journey
-eastward. If this is by canal, the barge waits on the other side, and
-the grain runs down into it through another trunk; if by railway, the
-cars are run under or alongside the elevator and quickly filled. Then
-the lake vessels are laden with coal for the return voyage. While an
-American gives these elevators scant attention, being used to them,
-not so the foreigner, who regards them with the greatest curiosity.
-Thus wrote Anthony Trollope about them: "An elevator is as ugly a
-monster as has yet been produced. In uncouthness of form it outdoes
-those obsolete old brutes who used to roam about the semi-aqueous
-world and live a most uncomfortable life, with their great hungering
-stomachs and huge unsatisfied maws. Rivers of corn and wheat run
-through these monsters night and day. And all this wheat which passes
-through Buffalo comes loose in bulk; nothing is known of sacks or
-bags. To any spectator in Buffalo this becomes immediately a matter of
-course; but this should be explained, as we in England are not
-accustomed to see wheat travelling in this open, unguarded and
-plebeian manner. Wheat with us is aristocratic, and travels always in
-its private carriage."
-
-The extensive commerce of Buffalo is varied by iron manufacturing,
-breweries, distilleries, oil refineries and other industries, but the
-elevators, coal chutes and railroad and canal business seem to
-overshadow everything else. The city has wide tree-lined streets, and
-is most handsome with its many fine buildings. There is an extensive
-system of attractive parks connected by boulevards; broad streets
-lined with well-built residences, and in the newer parts the level
-surface is filled with ornamental homes, some most expensively
-constructed and elaborately adorned. The well-kept lawns and gardens
-are fully open to view, and Delaware Avenue, thus bordered, is one of
-the most attractive streets. On the Main Street, among many impressive
-structures, is the huge Ellicott Square Building, said to be the
-largest office-building in the world, housing a business community
-approximating five thousand persons. There are also two public
-Libraries and many handsome churches.
-
-The locality of greatest interest in Buffalo is probably the little
-Prospect Park out at the edge of Lake Erie, where its waters flow into
-Niagara River. The basins and harbor making the beginning of the Erie
-Canal, which we have traced all across New York State, are down at the
-edge of the lake, and a steep bluff, rising about sixty feet, makes
-the verge of the Park, and continues around along the bank of the
-river. Here it is crowned by an esplanade surrounding the remains of
-old Fort Porter, a dilapidated relic of bygone days of frontier
-conflicts. A couple of superannuated cannon point their muzzles across
-the water towards Canada, but otherwise the locality is peaceful. A
-small military force is kept here, probably to watch the British Fort
-Erie over on the opposite river bank, a few hundred yards off, but
-the worst conflicts now are bouts at playing ball. The protecting
-harbor breakwater is out in front, and seen down the Niagara River are
-the light trusses of the International Railway Bridge, spanning its
-swift current, and the Erie Canal alongside the bank. Into the narrow
-river sweeps the drainage of the Great Lakes, an enormous mass of
-water, and in the centre the city has placed a large crib, tapping the
-clear current for its water-supply. The powerful torrent flows
-steadily northward out of Lake Erie, with a speed of six or seven
-miles an hour, to make the Niagara cataract, twenty miles away, and
-show its tremendous force in the Niagara gorge. In the words of
-Goethe:
-
-     "Water its living strength first shows,
-     When obstacles its course oppose."
-
-
-NIAGARA.
-
-The Indians who first looked upon the world's greatest cataract gave
-the best idea of it in their appropriate name, "The Thunder of
-Waters." There is no setting provided for it in the charms of natural
-scenery; it has no outside attractions. All its beauty and sublimity
-are within the rocky walls of its stupendous chasm. The approaches
-from every direction are dull and tedious, the surrounding country
-being flat. The forests are sparse and there are few fine trees, these
-being confined to the verge of the abyss, and being generally of
-recent planting. The Niagara River flows northward from Lake Erie
-through a plain. The Lake Erie level is five hundred and sixty-four
-feet above the sea, and in its tortuous course of about thirty-six
-miles to Lake Ontario, the Niagara River descends three hundred and
-thirty-three feet, leaving the level of Ontario still two hundred and
-thirty-one feet above the sea. More than half of all the fresh water
-on the entire globe--the whole enormous volume from the vast lake
-region of North America, draining a territory equalling the entire
-continent of Europe, pours through this contracted channel out of Lake
-Erie. There is a swift current for a couple of miles, but afterwards
-the speed is gentler as the channel broadens, and Grand Island divides
-it. Then it reunites into a wider stream, flowing sluggishly westward,
-small islands dotting the surface. About fifteen miles from Lake Erie
-the river narrows and the rapids begin. They flow with great speed for
-a mile above the falls, in this distance descending fifty-two feet,
-Goat Island dividing their channel at the brink of the cataract, where
-the river makes a bend from the west back to the north. This island
-separates the waters, although nine-tenths go over the Canadian fall,
-which the abrupt bend curves into horseshoe form. This fall is about
-one hundred and fifty-eight feet high, the height of the smaller fall
-on the American side being one hundred and sixty-four feet. The two
-cataracts spread out to forty-seven hundred and fifty feet breadth,
-the steep wooded bank of Goat Island, separating them, occupying about
-one-fourth the distance. The American fall is about eleven hundred
-feet wide and the Canadian fall twice that width, the actual line of
-the descending waters on the latter being much larger than the breadth
-of the river because of its curving form. Recent changes, caused by
-falling rock in the apex of this fall, have, however, made it a more
-symmetrical horseshoe than had been the case for years. The Niagara
-River, just below the cataract, contracts to about one thousand feet,
-widening to twelve hundred and fifty feet beneath the new single-arch
-steel bridge recently constructed a short distance farther down. For
-seven miles the gorge is carved out, the river banks on both sides
-rising to the top level of the falls, and the bottom sinking deeper
-and deeper as the lower rapids descend towards Lewiston, and in some
-places contracting to very narrow limits. Two miles below the cataract
-the river is compressed within eight hundred feet, and a mile farther
-down, at the outlet of the Whirlpool, where a sharp right-angled turn
-is made, the enormous current is contracted within a space of less
-than two hundred and fifty feet. In the seven miles distance, these
-lower rapids descend about one hundred and four feet, and then with
-placid current the Niagara River flows a few miles farther northward
-to Lake Ontario.
-
-The view of Niagara is impressive alike upon sight and hearing, and
-this impressiveness grows upon the visitor. From the bridge just below
-the American fall, and from the Canadian side, the whole grand scene
-is in full display, and quickly convinces that no description can
-exaggerate Niagara. The Indians first told of the falls, and they are
-indicated on Champlain's map of 1632. In 1648 the Jesuit missionary
-Rugueneau wrote of them as a "cataract of frightful height." The first
-white man who saw them was Father Louis Hennepin, the Franciscan, in
-1678, who described them as "a vast and prodigious cadence of water
-which falls down after a surprising and astonishing manner, insomuch
-that the universe does not afford its parallel. The waters which fall
-from this horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most hideous
-manner imaginable, making an outrageous noise more terrible than that
-of thunder, for when the wind blows out of the south their dismal
-roaring may be heard more than fifteen leagues off." Upon Charles
-Dickens the first and enduring effect, instant and lasting, of the
-tremendous spectacle, was: "Peace--peace of mind, tranquility, calm
-recollections of the dead, great thoughts of eternal rest and
-happiness." The falls had a sanative influence upon Professor Tyndall,
-for, "quickened by the emotions there aroused," he says, "the blood
-sped exultingly through the arteries, abolishing introspection,
-clearing the heart of all bitterness, and enabling one to think with
-tolerance, if not with tenderness, upon the most relentless and
-unreasonable foe." After Anthony Trollope had looked upon the cataract
-he wrote: "Of all the sights on this earth of ours, I know no other
-one thing so beautiful, so glorious and so powerful. That fall is more
-graceful than Giotto's Tower, more noble than the Apollo. The peaks of
-the Alps are not so astounding in their solitude. The valleys of the
-Blue Mountains in Jamaica are less green. The finished glaze of life
-in Paris is less invariable; and the full tide of trade around the
-Bank of England is not so inexorably powerful."
-
-
-GEOLOGICAL FORMATION OF NIAGARA.
-
-The estimate is that nine hundred millions of cubic feet of water pour
-over Niagara every hour, and great as this mass is, there is a belief
-that half the water passing into Lake Erie from the upper lakes does
-not go over the falls, but finds its way into Ontario through a
-subterranean channel. Nothing demonstrates this theory, but it is
-advanced to account for the difference between the amount of water
-accumulated in the upper lakes and that going over the falls. The
-actual current is sufficiently enormous, however, and steadily wearing
-away the rocks over which it descends, it has during the past ages
-excavated the gorge of the lower rapids. The land surface, which is
-low at Lake Erie, scarcely rising above the level of its waters,
-gradually becomes more elevated towards the north, till near Lewiston
-it is about forty feet above Erie. The Niagara River thus flows in the
-direction of the ascent of this moderately inclined plane. Beyond this
-the surface makes a sudden descent towards Lake Ontario of about two
-hundred and fifty feet down to a plateau, upon which stands Lewiston
-on the American side and Queenston on the Canadian side of the river.
-There thus is formed a bold terrace looking out upon Ontario, from
-which that lake is seven miles away, and from the foot of the terrace
-the surface descends gently one hundred and twenty feet farther to the
-lake shore. The gorge through which the river flows is three hundred
-and sixty-six feet deep at this terrace. There is no doubt the first
-location of the great cataract was on the face of the terrace near
-Lewiston, and it has gradually retired by the eating away, year after
-year, of the rocky ledges over which the waters pour. This, however,
-has not been done in a hurry, for the geologists studying the subject
-estimate that it has required nearly thirty-seven thousand years to
-bring the falls from Lewiston back to their present location. In fact,
-from the stratification, Professor Agassiz expressed the opinion that
-at one time there were three distinct cataracts in Niagara River.
-
-During the brief time observations have been made, great fragments of
-rocks have been repeatedly carried down by the current pouring over
-Niagara, the frosts assisting disintegration. This caused not only a
-recession but decided changes in appearance. Since 1842 the New York
-State geologists, who then made a careful and accurate topographical
-map, have been closely watching these changes, and the average rate of
-recession is estimated at slightly over two feet annually. In Father
-Hennepin's sketch of 1678 there was a striking feature, since entirely
-disappeared, a third fall on the Canadian side facing the line of the
-main cataract, and caused by a large rock turning the diverted fall in
-this direction, this rock falling, however, in the eighteenth century.
-The rate at which recessions occur is not uniform. No change may be
-apparent for several years, and the soft underlying strata being
-gradually worn away, great masses of the upper and harder formations
-then tumble down, causing in a brief period marked changes. At the
-present location of the cataract, sheets of hard limestone cover the
-surface of the country, and from the top of the falls to eighty or
-ninety feet depth. Shaly layers are under these. All the strata slope
-gently downward against the river current at the rate of about
-twenty-five feet to the mile. Above the falls, in the rapids, the
-limestone strata are piled upon each other, until about fifty feet
-more are added to the formation, when they all disappear under the
-outcropping edges of the next series above, composed of marls and
-shales. Through these piles of strata the cataract has worked its way
-back, receding probably most rapidly in cases where, as at present,
-the lower portion of the cutting was composed of soft beds of rock,
-which being hollowed out and removed by frost and water, let down the
-harder strata above. The effect of continual recession must be to
-diminish the height of the falls, both by raising the river level at
-their base and by the sloping of the surmounting limestone strata to a
-lower level. A recession of two miles farther, the geologists say,
-will cut away both the hard and the soft layers, and then the cataract
-will become almost stationary on the lower sandstone formation, with
-its height reduced to about eighty feet. This diminution in the
-Niagara attractions might be startling were it not estimated that it
-can hardly be accomplished for some twelve thousand years.
-
-
-APPEARANCE OF NIAGARA.
-
-The best view of the great cataract is from the Canadian shore just
-below it, where, from an elevation, the upper rapids can be seen
-flowing to the brink of the fall. A bright day is an advantage, when
-the green water tints are most marked. The Canadian shore above,
-curves around from the westward, and in front are the dark and
-precipitous cliffs of Goat Island, surmounted by foliage. The Canadian
-rapids come to the brink an almost unbroken sheet of foaming waters,
-but the narrower rapids on the American side are closer, and have a
-background of little islands, with torrents foaming between. The
-current passing over the American fall seems shallow, compared with
-the solid masses of bright green water pouring down the Canadian
-horseshoe. There, on either hand, is an edge of foaming streams,
-looking like clusters of constantly descending frosted columns, with a
-broad and deeply recessed, bright-green central cataract, giving the
-impressive idea of millions of tons of water pouring into an abyss,
-the bottom of which is obscured by seething and fleecy clouds of
-spray. On either side, dark-brown, water-worn rocks lie at the base,
-while the spray bursts out into mammoth explosions, like puffs of
-white smoke suddenly darting from parks of artillery. The water comes
-over the brink comparatively slowly, then falls with constantly
-accelerated speed, the colors changing as the velocity increases and
-air gets into the torrent, until the original bright green becomes a
-foaming white, which is quickly lost behind the clouds of spray
-beneath. These clouds slowly rise in a thin, transparent veil far
-above the cataract. From under the spray the river flows towards us,
-its eddying currents streaked with white. A little steamboat moves
-among the eddies, and goes almost under the mass of falling water, yet
-finds a practically smooth passage. Closer, on the left hand, the
-American fall appears a rough and broken cataract, almost all foam,
-with green tints showing through, and at intervals along its face
-great masses of water spurting forward through the torrent as a rocky
-obstruction may be met part way down. The eye fascinatingly follows
-the steadily increasing course of the waters as they descend from top
-to bottom upon the piles of boulders dimly seen through the spray
-clouds. Adjoining the American cataract is the water-worn wall of the
-chasm, built of dark red stratified rocks, looking as if cut down
-perpendicularly by a knife, and whitened towards the top, where the
-protruding limestone formation surmounts the lower shales. Upon the
-faces of the cliffs can be traced the manner in which the water in
-past ages gradually carved out the gorge, while at their bases the
-sloping talus of fallen fragments is at the river's edge. Through the
-deep and narrow canyon the greenish waters move away towards the
-rapids below. It all eternally falls, and foams and roars, and the
-ever-changing views displayed by the world's great wonder make an
-impression unlike anything else in nature.
-
-
-GOAT ISLAND.
-
-Niagara presents other spectacles; the islands scattered among the
-upper rapids; their swiftly flowing, foaming current rushing wildly
-along; the remarkable lower gorge, where the torrent making the
-grandest rapids runs finally into the Whirlpool basin with its
-terrific swirls and eddies--these join in making the colossal
-exhibition. Added to all is the impressive idea of the resistless
-forces of Nature and of the elements. Few places are better fitted for
-geological study, and by day or night the picture presents constant
-changes of view, exerting the most powerful influence upon the mind.
-Goat Island between the two falls is a most interesting place,
-covering, with the adjacent islets, about sixty acres, and it was long
-a favorite Indian Cemetery. The Indians had a tradition that the falls
-demand two human victims every year, and the number of deaths from
-accident and suicide fully maintains the average. There have been
-attempts to romantically rename this as Iris Island, but the popular
-title remains, which was given from the goats kept there by the
-original white settlers. It was from a ladder one hundred feet high,
-elevated upon the lower bank of Goat Island, near the edge of the
-Canadian fall, that Sam Patch, in 1829, jumped down the Falls of
-Niagara. He endeavored to gain fame and a precarious living by jumping
-down various waterfalls, and not content with this exploit, made the
-jump at the Genesee falls at Rochester and was drowned. A bridge
-crosses from the American shore to Goat Island, and it is recorded
-that two bull-terrier dogs thrown from this bridge have made the
-plunge over the American falls and survived it. One of them lived all
-winter on the carcass of a cow he found on the rocks below, and the
-other, very much astonished and grieved, is said to have trotted up
-the stairs from the steamboat wharf about one hour after being thrown
-into the water and making the plunge.
-
-From the upper point of Goat Island a bar stretches up the river, and
-can be plainly seen dividing the rapids which pass on either side to
-the American and Canadian falls. A foot-bridge from Goat Island, on
-the American side, leads to the pretty little Luna Island, standing at
-the brink of the cataract and dividing its waters. The narrow channel
-between makes a miniature waterfall, under which is the famous "Cave
-of the Winds." Here the venturesome visitor goes actually under
-Niagara, for the space behind the waterfall is hollowed out of the
-rocks, and amid the rushing winds and spray an idea can be got of the
-effects produced by the greater cataracts. Here are seen the rainbows
-formed by the sunlight on the spray in complete circles; and the cave,
-one hundred feet high, and recessed into the wall of the cliff, gives
-an excellent exhibition of the undermining processes constantly going
-on. Upon the Canadian side of Goat Island, at the edge of the fall,
-foot-bridges lead over the water-worn and honeycombed rocks to the
-brink of the great Horseshoe. Amid an almost deafening roar, with
-rushing waters on either hand, there can be got in this place probably
-the best near view of the greater cataract. Here are the Terrapin
-Rocks, and over on the Canadian side, at the base of the chasm, are
-the fragments of Table Rock and adjacent rocks which have recently
-fallen, with enormous masses of water beating upon them. In the midst
-of the rapids on the Canadian side of Goat Island are also the pretty
-little islands known as the "Three Sisters" and their diminutive
-"Little Brother," with cascades pouring over the ledges between
-them--a charming sight. The steep descent of the rapids can here be
-realized, the torrent plunging down from far above one's head, and
-rushing over the falls. This fascinating yet precarious region has
-seen terrible disasters and narrow escapes. The overpowering view of
-all, from Goat Island, is the vast mass of water pouring down the
-Canadian falls. This is fully twenty feet in depth at the brink of the
-cataract, and it tumbles from all around the deeply recessed Horseshoe
-into an apparently bottomless pool, no one yet having been able to
-sound its depth. In 1828 the "Michigan," a condemned ship from Lake
-Erie, was sent over this fall, large crowds watching. She drew
-eighteen feet water and passed clear of the top. Among other things on
-her deck were a black bear and a wooden statue of General Andrew
-Jackson. The wise bear deserted the ship in the midst of the rapids
-and swam ashore. The ship was smashed to pieces by the fall, but the
-first article seen after the plunge was the statue of "Old Hickory,"
-popping headforemost up through the waters unharmed. This was
-considered a favorable omen, for in the autumn he was elected
-President of the United States.
-
-
-THE RAPIDS AND THE WHIRLPOOL.
-
-The surface of Niagara River below the cataract is for some distance
-comparatively calm, so that small boats can move about and pass almost
-under the mass of descending waters. The deep and narrow gorge
-stretches far to the north with two ponderous international railroad
-bridges thrown across it in the distance, carrying over the Vanderbilt
-and Grand Trunk roads. An electric road is constructed down the bottom
-of the gorge on the American bank, and another along its top on the
-Canadian side. The water flows with occasional eddies, its color a
-brilliant green under the sunlight, the gorge steadily deepening, the
-channel narrowing, and when it passes under the two railroad bridges,
-which are close together, the river begins its headlong course down
-the Lower Rapids leading to the Whirlpool. With the speed of an
-express train, the torrent runs under these bridges, tossing, foaming
-and rolling in huge waves, buffeting the rocks, and thus it rushes
-into the Whirlpool. Viewed from the bottom of the gorge alongside the
-torrent, the effect is almost painful, its tempestuous whirl and
-headlong speed having a tendency to make the observer giddy. The
-rushing stream is elevated in the centre far above the sides, the
-waves in these rapids at times rising thirty feet, tossing wildly in
-all directions, and coming together with tremendous force. Huge rocks,
-fallen in earlier ages, evidently underlie the torrent. It was in
-these terrible rapids that several daring spirits, and notably Captain
-Webb in 1883, attempted, unprotected, to swim the river, and paid the
-penalty with their lives. More recently these rapids have been safely
-passed in casks, peculiarly constructed, although the passengers got
-rough usage. The Whirlpool at the end of the rapids is a most
-extraordinary formation. The torrent runs into an oblong pool, within
-an elliptical basin, the outlet being at the side through a narrow
-gorge not two hundred and fifty feet wide, above which the rocky walls
-tower for three hundred feet. Into this basin the waters rush from the
-rapids, their current pushing to its farthest edge, and then, rebuffed
-by the bank of the abyss, returning in an eddy on either hand. These
-two great eddies steadily circle round and round, and logs coming down
-the rapids sometimes swim there for days before they are allowed to
-get to the outlet. Upon the left-hand side of this remarkable pool the
-eddy whirls around without obstruction, while that upon the right
-hand, where the outlet is, rebounds upon the incoming torrent and is
-thrown back in huge waves of mixed foam and green, the escaping waters
-finally rushing out through the narrow opening, and on down more
-brawling rapids to the end of the deep and wonderful gorge, and thence
-in placid stream through the level land northward to Lake Ontario.
-
-
-NIAGARA INDUSTRIES AND BATTLES.
-
-The town of Niagara Falls, which has about seven thousand people, long
-had its chief source of prosperity in the influx of sight-seers, but
-it has recently developed into an important industrial centre through
-the establishment of large works utilizing the power of the falls by
-means of electricity. Some distance above the cataract on the American
-side a tunnel starts, of which the outlet is just below the American
-fall. This tunnel is one hundred and sixty-five feet below the river
-surface at the initial point, and passes about two hundred feet
-beneath the town, being over a mile long. Part of the waters of the
-Upper Rapids are diverted to the head of the tunnel, and by falling
-through deep shafts upon turbine wheels the water-power is utilized
-for dynamos, and in this way an enormous force is obtained from the
-electricity, which is used in various kinds of manufacturing, for
-trolley roads and other purposes, some of the power being conducted to
-Buffalo. A similar method is to be availed of on the Canadian side. It
-is estimated that in various ways the Niagara Falls furnish fully four
-hundred thousand horse-power for industrial uses, and the amount
-constantly increases. The largest dynamos in the world, and the most
-complete electrical adaptations of power are installed at these
-Niagara works.
-
-But the history of Niagara has not been always scenic and industrial.
-In 1763 occurred the horrible massacre of the "Devil's Hole,"
-alongside the gorge of the Lower Rapids, when a band of Senecas
-ambushed a French commissary train with an escort, the whole force but
-two, who escaped, being killed, while reinforcements, hurried from
-Lewiston at the sound of the muskets, were nearly all caught and
-tomahawked in a second ambush. Many of the victims were thrown alive
-from the cliffs into the boiling Niagara rapids, their horses and
-wagons being hurled down after them. There were repeated actions near
-Niagara in the War of 1812. In October, 1812, the battle of Queenston
-Heights was fought, the Americans storming the terrace and killing
-General Brock, the British commander, whose monument is erected there,
-but being finally defeated and most of them captured. There were
-various contests near by in 1813, and the battle of Chippewa took
-place above the falls on July 5, 1814, the British being defeated. On
-July 25th the battle of Lundy's Lane was fought just west of the
-falls, between sunset and midnight of a summer night, a contest with
-varying success and doubtful result, the noise of the conflict
-commingling with the roar of the cataract, and the dead of both armies
-being buried on the field, so that, in the words of Lossing, "the
-mighty diapason of the flood was their requiem."
-
-     "O'er Huron's wave the sun was low,
-     The weary soldier watched the bow
-     Fast fading from the cloud below
-         The dashing of Niagara.
-
-     "And while the phantom chained his sight
-     Ah! little thought he of the fight,--
-     The horrors of the dreamless night,
-         That posted on so rapidly."
-
-Thus majestically wrote Mrs. Sigourney of this matchless cataract of
-Niagara:
-
-     "Flow on forever in thy glorious robe
-     Of terror and of beauty. Yea, flow on,
-     Unfathomed and resistless. God hath set
-     His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud
-     Mantled around thy feet. And He doth give
-     Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him
-     Eternally--bidding the lip of man
-     Keep silence, and upon thine altar pour
-     Incense of awe-struck praise. Earth fears to lift
-     The insect trump that tells her trifling joys,
-     Or fleeting triumphs, 'mid the peal sublime
-     Of thy tremendous hymn. Proud Ocean shrinks
-     Back from thy brotherhood, and all his waves
-     Retire abashed. For he hath need to sleep,
-     Sometimes, like a spent laborer, calling home
-     His boisterous billows from their vexing play,
-     To a long, dreary calm: but thy strong tide
-     Faints not, nor e'er with failing heart forgets
-     Its everlasting lesson, night or day.
-     The morning stars, that hailed Creation's birth,
-     Heard thy hoarse anthem mixing with their song
-     Jehovah's name; and the dissolving fires,
-     That wait the mandate of the day of doom
-     To wreck the Earth, shall find it deep inscribed
-     Upon thy rocky scroll."
-
-
-
-
-DESCENDING THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.
-
-
-
-
-XIV.
-
-DESCENDING THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE.
-
-     The Great River of Canada -- Jacques Cartier -- The Great Lakes
-     -- The Ancient Course -- The St. Lawrence Canals -- Toronto --
-     Lake of the Thousand Islands -- Kingston -- Garden of the Great
-     Spirit -- Clayton -- Frontenac -- Round Island -- Alexandria
-     Bay -- Brockville -- Ogdensburg -- Prescott -- Galop, Plat and
-     Long Sault Rapids -- Cornwall -- St. Regis -- Lake St. Francis
-     -- Coteau, Split Rock, Cascades and Cedars Rapids -- Lake St.
-     Louis -- Lachine -- Caughnawaga -- Lachine Rapids -- Montreal
-     -- St. Mary's Current -- St. Helen's Island -- Montreal
-     Churches and Religious Houses -- Hochelaga -- First Religious
-     Colonization -- Dauversičre and Olier -- Society of Notre Dame
-     de Montreal -- Maisonneuve -- Mademoiselle Mance -- Marguerite
-     Bourgeoys -- Madame de la Peltrie -- The Accommodation --
-     Victoria Tubular Bridge -- Seminary of St. Sulpice -- Hotel
-     Dieu -- The Black Nuns -- The Gray Nunnery -- McGill University
-     -- Place d'Armes -- Church of Notre Dame -- Cathedral of St.
-     Peter -- Notre Dame de Lourdes -- Christ Church Cathedral --
-     Champ de Mars -- Notre Dame de Bonsecours -- Rapids of St. Anne
-     -- Lake of the Two Mountains -- Trappists -- Mount Royal --
-     Ottawa River -- Long Sault Rapids -- Thermopylć -- Louis Joseph
-     Papineau -- Riviere aux Ličvres -- The Habitan -- The Metis --
-     Ottawa -- Bytown -- Chaudičre Falls -- Rideau Canal -- Dominion
-     Government Buildings -- Richelieu River -- Lake St. Peter --
-     St. Francis River -- Three Rivers -- Shawanagan Fall -- St.
-     Augustin -- Sillery -- Quebec -- Stadacona -- Samuel de
-     Champlain -- Montmagny -- Laval de Montmorency -- Jesuit
-     Missionaries -- Father Davion -- The French Gentilhomme -- Cape
-     Diamond -- Charles Dilke -- Henry Ward Beecher -- Castle of St.
-     Louis -- Quebec Citadel -- Wolfe-Montcalm Monument -- General
-     Montgomery -- Plains of Abraham -- General Wolfe -- The
-     Basilica -- The Seminary -- English Cathedral -- Bishop
-     Mountain -- The Ursulines -- Marie Guyart -- Montcalm's Skull
-     -- Hotel Dieu -- Fathers Brébeuf and Lalemont and their
-     Martyrdom -- Notre Dame des Victoires -- Dufferin Terrace --
-     Point Levis -- Beauport -- French Cottages -- Faith of the
-     Habitans -- Cardinal Newman -- Falls of Montmorency -- La Bonne
-     Sainte Anne -- Isle of Orleans -- St. Laurent and St. Pierre --
-     The Laurentides -- Cape Tourmente -- Bay of St. Paul -- Mount
-     Eboulements -- Murray Bay -- Kamouraska -- Riviere du Loup --
-     Cacouna -- Tadousac -- Saguenay River -- Grand Discharge and
-     Little Discharge -- Ha Ha Bay -- Chicoutimi -- Capes Trinity
-     and Eternity -- Restigouche Region -- Micmac Indians --
-     Glooscap -- Lorette -- Roberval -- Lake St. John -- Montaignais
-     Indians -- Trois Pistoles -- Rimouski -- Gaspé -- Notre Dame
-     Mountains -- Labrador -- Grand Falls -- The Fishermen.
-
-
-THE GREAT RIVER OF CANADA.
-
-     "The first time I beheld thee, beauteous stream,
-       How pure, how smooth, how broad thy bosom heav'd!
-     What feelings rushed upon my heart!--a gleam
-       As of another life my kindling soul received."
-
-Thus sang Maria Brooks to the noble river St. Lawrence, which the
-earlier geographers always called "the Great River of Canada." The
-first adventurous white man who crossed the seas and found it was the
-intrepid French navigator, Jacques Cartier, who sailed into its broad
-bay on the festival day of the martyred Saint Lawrence, in 1534. When
-this bold explorer started from France on his voyage of discovery he
-was fired with religious zeal. St. Malo, on the coast of Brittany, was
-then the chief French seaport, and before departing, the entire
-company of officers and sailors piously attended a solemn High Mass
-in the old Cathedral, and in the presence of thousands received the
-venerable Archbishop's blessing upon their enterprise. Cartier, like
-all the rest of the early discoverers, was sent under the auspices of
-the French Government to hunt for the "Northwest Passage," the short
-route from Europe to the Indies, or, as described in his instructions,
-to seek "the new road to Cathay." The Church naturally bestowed its
-most earnest benisons upon an enterprise promising unlimited religious
-expansion in the realms France might secure across the Atlantic.
-Carrier's chief ship was only of one hundred and twenty tons, but the
-little fleet crossed the ocean in safety, and on July 9th entered a
-large bay south of the St. Lawrence, encountering such intense heats
-that it was named the Bay de Chaleurs, being still thus called. After
-an extensive examination of the neighboring coasts and bays, Cartier
-returned home, reporting that the Canadian summers were as warm as
-those of France, but giving no information of the extreme cold of the
-winters. This the sun-loving Gauls did not discover until later.
-Cartier came back the next year, and sailed up what he had already
-named the "Great River," describing it as the most enormous in the
-world. The Indians told his wondering sailors "it goes so far that no
-man hath ever been to the end that they had heard." The explorers
-carefully examined the vast stream, its shores and branches, and were
-sure, as they reported, that its sombre tributary, the Saguenay,
-"comes from the Sea of Cathay, for in this place there issues a strong
-current, and there runs here a terrible tide." They saw numerous
-whales and other sea-monsters, but found the water too deep for
-soundings, and in fact the river St. Lawrence cannot be sounded for
-one hundred and fifty miles up from its mouth.
-
-
-ITS VAST EXTENT AND FEATURES.
-
-The St. Lawrence is an enormous river, having much the largest estuary
-of any river on the globe, the tidal current flowing five hundred
-miles up the stream, and its mouth spreading ninety-six miles wide. It
-is the outlet of the greatest body of fresh water in existence,
-draining seven vast lakes--Nepigon, Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie,
-Ontario and Champlain--besides myriads of smaller ones, including the
-Central New York lakes, hundreds in the Adirondack forests, and
-thousands in the vast Canadian wilderness. The St. Lawrence basin
-covers a territory of over four hundred thousand square miles, and has
-been computed as containing more than half the fresh water on the
-planet. The main St. Lawrence river is seven hundred and fifty miles
-long from Lake Ontario to the head of the Gulf, while the total length
-of the whole system of lakes and rivers is over two thousand miles,
-and has been computed by some patient mathematician to contain a mass
-of fresh water equal to twelve thousand cubic miles, of which one
-cubic mile goes over Niagara Falls every week. The early geographers
-usually located the head of the system in Lake Nepigon, north of
-Superior, but it is thought the longer line to the ocean is from the
-source of St. Louis River, flowing through Minnesota into the
-southwestern extremity of Lake Superior at Duluth. The bigness of the
-wonderful St. Lawrence is shown in everything about it. Thoreau, who
-was such a keen observer, has written that this great river rises near
-another "Father of Waters," the Mississippi, and "issues from a
-remarkable spring, far up in the woods, fifteen hundred miles in
-circumference," called Lake Superior, while "it makes such a noise in
-its tumbling down at one place (Niagara) as is heard all round the
-world." The geologists, however, who usually upturn most things,
-declare that it did not always reach the sea as now. Originally the
-St. Lawrence, they say, flowed into the ocean by going out through the
-Narrows in New York harbor, and its immense current broke the passage
-through the West Point Highlands in a mighty stream, compared with
-which the present Hudson River is a pigmy. Professor Newberry writes
-that during countless ages this enormous river, which no human eyes
-beheld, carried off the surplus waters of a great drainage area with a
-rapid current cutting down its gorge many hundred feet in depth,
-reaching from the Lake Superior basin to the Narrows, where it
-dispersed in a vast delta, debouching upon a sea then much lower in
-level than now, and having its shore-line about eighty miles southeast
-of New York. By some stupendous convulsion this channel was changed,
-drift banked up the old valley of the Mohawk, and the outflow was
-deflected from the northeast corner of Lake Ontario into the present
-shallow and rocky channel, filled with islands and rapids, followed by
-the St. Lawrence down to Montreal.
-
-The system of navigable water ways from Duluth and Port Arthur on Lake
-Superior to the Strait of Belle Isle is twenty-two hundred miles long.
-At Lake Ontario the head of the St. Lawrence River is two hundred and
-thirty-one feet above the sea level, and its current descends that
-distance to tidewater chiefly by going down successive rapids. There
-are ship canals around these rapids and around Niagara Falls, and also
-connecting various lakes above. The Sault Sainte Marie locks and
-canals, at the outlet of Lake Superior, have already been described.
-The admirable systems conducting navigation around the rapids in the
-river below Lake Ontario also carry a large tonnage. Between
-Ogdensburg and Montreal, a distance of about one hundred and twenty
-miles, the navigation of forty-three miles is through six canals of
-various lengths around the rapids, each having elaborate locks. The
-Gulf of St. Lawrence is also constructed upon an enormous scale,
-covering eighty thousand square miles, and with the lower river
-having a tidal ebb and flow of eighteen to twenty-four feet. The mouth
-of the river and head of the Gulf are usually located at Cape Chatte,
-far below the Saguenay, and from the Cape almost up to Quebec the
-river is ten to thirty miles wide. In front of Quebec it narrows to
-less than a mile, while above, the width is from one to two and a half
-miles to Montreal, expanding to ten miles at Lake St. Peter, where the
-tidal influence ceases. Above Montreal the river occasionally expands
-into lakes, but is generally a broad and strongly flowing stream with
-frequent rapids. The largest ocean vessels freely ascend to Montreal,
-at the head of ship navigation, Lachine rapids being just above the
-city. For several months in winter, however, ice prevents.
-
-
-THE CITY OF TORONTO.
-
-Lake Ontario, out of which the river St. Lawrence flows, is nearly two
-hundred miles long, and in some places seventy miles wide. It has
-generally low shores and but few islands, and the name given it by
-Champlain was Lake St. Louis, after the King of France. The original
-Indian name, however, has since been retained, Ontario meaning "how
-beautiful is the rock standing in the water." Three well-known
-Canadian cities are upon its shores--Hamilton at the western end,
-Toronto on the northern coast, and Kingston near the eastern end.
-Hamilton is a busy, industrial and commercial city of fifty thousand
-people, having a good harbor. The great port, however, is Toronto,
-with over two hundred thousand inhabitants, the capital of the
-Province of Ontario, and the headquarters of the Scottish and Irish
-Protestants, who settled and rule Upper Canada, the richest and most
-populous province of the Dominion. Toronto means "the place of
-meeting," and the word was first heard in the seventeenth century as
-applied to the country of the Hurons, between Lakes Huron and Simcoe,
-the name being afterwards given to the Indian portage route, starting
-from Lake Ontario, in the present city limits, over to that country.
-Here, in 1749, the French established a small trading-post, Fort
-Rouille, but there was no settlement to speak of for a century or
-more. The United Empire Loyalists, under General Simcoe, founded the
-present city in 1793 under the name of York, and it was made the
-capital of Upper Canada, of which Simcoe was Governor. The location
-was an admirable one. The portage led up a romantic little stream, now
-called Humber River, while out in front was an excellent harbor,
-protected by a long, low, forest-clad island, making a perfect
-land-locked basin, sheltered from the storms of the lake. The nucleus
-of a town was thus started on a tract of marshy land, adjoining the
-Humber, familiarly known for nearly a half century as "Muddy Little
-York," which characteristic a part of the city still retains, as the
-pedestrian in falling weather can testify. Yet the site is a pleasing
-one--two little rivers, the Humber and the Don, flowing down to the
-lake through deep and picturesque ravines, having the city between and
-along them, while there is a gradual slope upward to an elevation of
-two hundred feet and over at some distance inland, an ancient terrace,
-which was the bank of the lake.
-
-The town did not grow much at first, and during the War of 1812 it was
-twice captured by the Americans, but they could not hold it long. As
-the back country was settled and lake navigation afterwards developed,
-however, the harbor became of importance and the city grew, being
-finally incorporated as Toronto. Then it got a great impetus and
-became known as the "Queen City," its geographical advantages as a
-centre of railway as well as water routes attracting a large
-immigration, so that it has grown to be the second city in Canada, and
-its people hope it may outstrip Montreal and become the first. It has
-achieved a high rank commercially, and in religion and education, so
-that there are substantial grounds for the claim, often made, that it
-is the "Boston of Canada." It contains a church for about every
-thousand inhabitants, Sunday is observed with great strictness, and it
-has in the University of Toronto the chief educational foundation in
-the Dominion, and in the _Toronto Globe_ the leading organ of Canadian
-Liberalism. The city spreads for eight miles along the lake shore; the
-streets are laid out at right angles, and there are many fine
-buildings. Yonge Street, dividing the city, stretches northward from
-the harbor forty miles inland to the shore of Lake Simcoe. There are
-attractive residential streets, with many ornate dwellings in tasteful
-gardens. St. James' Cathedral, near Yonge Street, is a fine Early
-English structure, with a noble clock and a grand spire rising three
-hundred and sixteen feet. There is a new City Hall, an enormous
-Romanesque building with an impressive tower, and Osgoode Hall, the
-seat of the Ontario Superior Courts, in Italian Renaissance, its name
-being given from the first Chief Justice of Upper Canada. In Queen's
-Park are the massive Grecian buildings of the Provincial Parliament,
-finished in 1892 at a cost of $1,500,000. This Park contains a bronze
-statue of George Brown, long a leading Canadian statesman, and a
-monument erected in memory of the men who fell in repelling the Fenian
-invasion of 1866.
-
-The buildings of the University of Toronto, to the westward of the
-Queen's Park, are extensive and form a magnificent architectural
-group. The main building is Norman, with a massive central tower,
-rebuilt in 1890, after having been burnt. There are fifteen hundred
-students, and the University offers complete courses in the arts and
-sciences, law and medicine. To the northward is McMaster Hall, a
-Baptist theological college, tastefully constructed and liberally
-endowed. From the top of the tall University tower there is an
-admirable view over the city and far across the lake. The town
-spreads broadly out on either hand, running down to the harbor, beyond
-which is the narrow streak made by the low-lying island enclosing it.
-Far to the southward stretch the sparkling waters of Ontario, reaching
-to the horizon, while in the distance can be seen a faint little
-silver cloud of spray rising from Niagara. In the northern background
-villas dot the green and wooded hillsides, showing how the city
-spreads, while in every direction the incomplete buildings and the
-gentle distant noises of the builder's hammer and trowel testify to
-its robust growth. Many steamers move about the harbor, and among them
-are the ferry-boats carrying crowds over to the low-lying island, with
-its many amusement places, the city's great recreation ground. At
-Hanlon's Point, its western end, was long the home of Hanlon, the
-"champion sculler of the world," one of Toronto's celebrities.
-
-
-THE LAKE OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS.
-
-Out of Ontario the great river St. Lawrence flows one hundred and
-seventy-two miles down to Montreal, being for much of the distance the
-boundary between the United States and Canada. Kingston, with
-twenty-five thousand people, guarded by picturesque graystone
-batteries and martello towers--the "Limestone City"--stands at the
-head of the river where it issues from the lake. To the westward is
-the entrance of the spacious Bay of Quinté, and on the eastern side
-the terminus of the Rideau Canal, leading northeastward to the Rideau
-River and Ottawa, the Canadian capital. This was originally the French
-Fort Cataraqui, established at the mouth of Cataraqui River in 1672,
-the name being subsequently changed by Count Frontenac to Frontenac.
-The Indian word Cataraqui means "Clay bank rising from the water," and
-after the fort was built the meaning changed to "fort rising from the
-water." Here the Sieur de La Salle, in 1678, built the first vessel
-navigating the lake. The British captured the fort in 1762, naming it
-Kingston, after the American Revolution, and by fortifying the
-promontories commanding the harbor, made it the strongest military
-post in Canada after Quebec and Halifax, the chief work being Fort
-Henry. Its garrisons have been long withdrawn, however, and now the
-old-time forts are useful chiefly as additions to the attractive
-scenery of its harbor and approaches. At the outlet of Ontario the
-course of the St. Lawrence begins with the noted archipelago known as
-the "Lake of the Thousand Islands," there being actually about
-seventeen hundred of them. This is a remarkable formation, composed
-largely of fragments of the range of Laurentian mountains, here coming
-southward out of Canada to the river, producing an extraordinary
-region. This Laurentian formation the geologists describe as the
-oldest land in the world--"the first rough sketch and axis of
-America." During countless ages this range has been worn down by the
-effect of rain, frost, snow and rivers, and scratched and broken by
-rough, resistless glaciers, and we are told that, compared with these
-fragmentary "Thousand Islands" and the almost worn-out mountains of
-the lower St. Lawrence basin, the Alps and the Andes are but creations
-of yesterday.
-
-Wolfe Island broadly obstructs the Ontario outlet between Kingston and
-Cape Vincent on the New York shore, and from them, with an
-island-filled channel, in some places twelve miles broad, the swift
-river current threads the archipelago by pleasant and tortuous
-passages nearly to Ogdensburg, forty miles below. These islands are of
-all sizes, shapes and appearance, varying from small low rocks and
-gaunt crags to gorgeous foliage-covered gardens. On account of their
-large numbers, the early French explorers named them "Les Milles
-Isles," and in the ancient chronicles they are described as
-"obstructing navigation and mystifying the most experienced Iroquois
-pilots." Fenimore Cooper located some of the most interesting
-incidents of his _Pathfinder_ in "that labyrinth of land and water,
-the Thousand Isles." The larger islands in spring and summer are
-generally covered with luxuriant vegetation, and the river shores are
-a delicious landscape of low but bold bluffs and fruitful fields
-spreading down to the water, with distant forests bounding the
-horizon. The atmosphere is usually dry, light and mellow, and the
-Indians, who admired this attractive region, appropriately called it
-Manatoana, or the "Garden of the Great Spirit." Howe Island adjoins
-Wolfe Island, and below is the long Grindstone Island. Here on the New
-York shore is the village of Clayton, where the New York Central
-Railroad comes up from Utica and Rome, the leading route to this
-region. Below is the almost circular Round Island with its large
-hotel, and everywhere are charming little islets, while ahead, down
-the St. Lawrence, are myriads more islands, apparently massed together
-in a maze of dark green distant foliage, the enchanted isles of a
-fascinating summer sea:
-
-     "The Thousand Isles, the Thousand Isles,
-     Dimpled, the wave around them smiles,
-     Kissed by a thousand red-lipped flowers,
-     Gemmed by a thousand emerald bowers.
-     A thousand birds their praises wake,
-     By rocky glade and plumy brake.
-     A thousand cedars' fragrant shade
-     Falls where the Indians' children played,
-     And Fancy's dream my heart beguiles
-     While singing of thee, Thousand Isles.
-
-     "There St. Lawrence gentlest flows,
-     There the south wind softest blows.
-     Titian alone hath power to paint
-     The triumph of their patron saint
-     Whose waves return on memory's tide;
-     La Salle and Piquet, side by side,
-     Proud Frontenac and bold Champlain
-     There act their wanderings o'er again;
-     And while the golden sunlight smiles,
-     Pilgrims shall greet thee, Thousand Isles."
-
-  [Illustration: _In the Thousand Islands, St. Lawrence_]
-
-Sailing down the river, group after group of big and little green
-islands are passed, the winding route and tortuous channels marked by
-diminutive lighthouses and beacons, while nearly every island has its
-cottages and often ornate and elaborate villas. Everywhere the shores
-appear to be granite rocks, bright green foliage varying with the
-darker evergreens surmounting them. All the waters are brilliantly
-green and clear as crystal, rippled by breezes laden with balsamic
-odors from the adjacent forests. Attractive cottages everywhere
-appear, with little attendant boat-houses down by the water side, and
-canoes and skiffs are in limitless supply, as the chief travelling is
-by them. Everything seems to be full of life; in all directions are
-pleasant views, the surface is dotted with pleasure-boats and
-white-sailed yachts, the whole region being semi-amphibious, and its
-people spending as much time on the water as on the land. The river,
-too, is a great highway of commerce among these islands, many large
-vessels passing along, and timber rafts guided by puffing little tugs.
-Much of the product of the Canadian forests is thus taken to market, a
-good deal going to Europe, and the sentimental and often musical
-Metis, who live aboard in huts or tents, are the raftsmen, working the
-broad sails and big steering-paddles on the tedious floating journey
-down to Quebec. There are many large hotels, and the big one on Round
-Island is named for Louis XIV.'s chivalrous and fiery Governor of
-Canada, Count de Frontenac. His remains are buried in the Basilica at
-Quebec, and his heart, enclosed in a leaden casket, was sent home to
-his widow in France. She was much younger, and, evidently piqued at
-some of his alleged love affairs, refused to receive it, saying she
-would not have a dead heart which had not been hers while living. The
-Baptists have a summer settlement on Round Island, and a short
-distance below the extensive Wellesley Island has on its upper end the
-popular Methodist summer town of the Thousand Island Park, where
-little cottages and tents around the great Tabernacle often take care
-of ten thousand people. Upon the lower end the Presbyterians have
-established their attractive resort, Westminster Park, which faces
-Alexandria Bay.
-
-
-ALEXANDRIA BAY.
-
-The chief settlement of the archipelago is the village of Alexandria
-Bay on the New York shore, and in the spacious reach of the river in
-front are the most famous and costly of the island cottages. Here are
-large hotels and many lodging-places, with a swelling population in
-the height of the season. Some of the island structures are
-unique--tall castles, palaces, imitations of iron-clads, forts and
-turrets--and many have been very costly. As most of the summer
-residents are Americans, those cottages are chiefly on the American
-side of the boundary, but there is also quite a group of island
-cottages over near the Canadian shore adjacent to the village of
-Gananoque. Alexandria Bay is a diminutive indentation in the New York
-shore, with a little red lighthouse out in front, while over to the
-northeast is spread a galaxy of the most famous islands, having fifty
-or more pretentious cottages scattered about the scene, amid the green
-foliage surmounting the rocky island foundations. In every direction
-go off channels among them of sparkling, dancing, green water, giving
-fine vista views, the dark crags at the water's edge underlying the
-frame of green foliage bounding the picture. The population has an
-aquatic flavor, and everybody seems to go about in boats, while the
-place has the air of a purely pleasure resort, evidently frozen up and
-hybernating when the tide of summer travel ebbs. In the season, the
-village presents a nightly carnival with its many-colored lights and
-dazzling fireworks displays over the rippling waters. For miles below
-Alexandria Bay, the islands stud the waters, although not so numerous
-nor so closely together as they are above. The largest of these is the
-long and narrow Grenadier Island in mid-river. Farther down they are
-usually small, some being only isolated rocks almost awash. The last
-of the islands are at Brockville, twenty-five miles below Alexandria
-Bay--the group of "Three Sisters," one large and two smaller,
-apparently dropped into the river opposite the town as if intended to
-support the piers of a bridge over to Morristown on the New York
-shore. This is an old and quiet Canadian town of nine thousand people,
-perpetuating the memory of General Sir Isaac Brock, who fell in the
-battle of Queenston Heights in October, 1812, and which is developing
-into a summer resort. Such is the charmed archipelago of attractive
-islands, unlike almost anything else in America, which brings so many
-pleasure and health seekers to the St. Lawrence to sing its praises:
-
-     "Fair St. Lawrence! What poet has sung of its grace
-     As it sleeps in the sun, with its smile-dimpled face
-     Beaming up to the sky that it mirrors! What brush
-     Has e'er pictured the charm of the marvellous hush
-     Of its silence; or caught the warm glow of its tints
-     As the afternoon wanes, and the even-star glints
-     In its beautiful depths? And what pen shall betray
-     The sweet secrets that hide from men's vision away
-     In its solitude wild? 'Tis the river of dreams;
-     You may float in your boat on the bloom-bordered streams,
-     Where its islands like emeralds matchless are set,
-     And forget that you live; and as quickly forget
-     That they die in the world you have left; for the calm
-     Of content is within you, the blessing of balm
-     Is upon you forever."
-
-
-SHOOTING THE RAPIDS.
-
-Ogdensburg is an active port on the St. Lawrence about twenty miles
-below Brockville, having a railroad through the Adirondacks over to
-Rouse's Point on Lake Champlain. Here flow in the dark-brown waters
-of the Oswegatchie, the Indian "Black River," coming out of those
-forests, which commingle in sharp contrast with the clear green
-current of the greater river. Prescott, antiquated and time-worn, is
-on the Canadian bank. The shores are generally low, with patches of
-woodland and farms, and the St. Lawrence below Ogdensburg begins to go
-down the rapids, having tranquil lakes and long wide stretches of
-placid waters intervening. The first rapid is the "Galop," flowing
-among flat grass-covered islands, with swift moving waters, but a
-small affair, scarcely discernible as the steamboat goes through it.
-The next one, the "Plat," is also passed without much trouble, and
-then a line of whitecaps ahead indicates the beginning of the "Long
-Sault," the most extensive rapid on the river. This is the "Long
-Leap," a rapid running for nine miles, its waters rushing down the
-rocky ledges at a speed of twenty miles an hour. All steam is shut
-off, and the river steamer is carried along by the movement of the
-seething, roaring current, the surface appearing much like the ocean
-in a storm. The rocking, sinking deck beneath one's feet gives a
-strange and startling sensation, and looking back at the incline down
-which the boat is sliding, it seems like a great angry wall of water
-chasing along from behind. An elongated island divides the channel
-through the "Long Sault," and there are other low islands adjacent;
-the boat, swaying among the rocks over which the waves leap in fury,
-being now lifted on their crests, and then dropped between them, but
-all the while gliding down hill, until still water and safety are
-reached at Cornwall. Here begins the northern boundary of New York,
-which goes due east through the Chateaugay forests across the land to
-Lake Champlain, and large factories front the river, getting their
-power from the waters above the rapid.
-
-Below Cornwall, which has an industrial population of some seven
-thousand, and the Indian village of St. Regis opposite, the St.
-Lawrence is wholly within Canada, and far off to the southeast rise
-the dark and distant Adirondack ranges. Soon the river broadens into
-the sluggish Lake St. Francis, at the head of which two well-known
-Adirondack streams flow in, the Racquette and St. Regis Rivers. The
-ancient village of St. Regis has its old church standing up
-conspicuously with a bright tin roof, for the air is so dry that tin
-is not painted in the Dominion. The bell hanging in the spire was sent
-out from France for the early Indian mission, but before landing, the
-vessel carrying it was captured by a colonial privateer and taken into
-Salem, Massachusetts. The bell, with other booty from the prize, was
-sold and sent to a church in Deerfield, then on the Massachusetts
-frontier. The St. Regis Huron Indians heard of this, and making a long
-march down there, recaptured their bell, massacred forty-seven people,
-and carried all the rest who could not escape, one hundred and twenty
-of them, including the church pastor and his family, captives back to
-Canada. Thus they brought the bell in triumph to St. Regis, and it has
-since hung undisturbed in the steeple, although the Indians who now
-hear it have become very few. The lake is twenty-eight miles long and
-very monotonous, although a distinguishing landmark is furnished by
-the massive buildings of St. Aniset Church, seen from afar on the
-southern shore.
-
-Coteau, at the end of the lake, has a railway swinging drawbridge,
-carrying the Canada Atlantic Railroad over, and below is another
-series of rapids. These are the "Coteau," with about two miles of
-swift current, making but slight impression; and then the "Cedars,"
-"Split Rock," and the "Cascades." The "Cedars" give a sensation, being
-composed of layers of rock down which the boat slides, as if settling
-from one ledge suddenly down to another, producing a curious feeling.
-It was here, in 1759, that General Amherst, by a sad mishap, had three
-hundred troops drowned. The "Split Rock" rapid is named from enormous
-boulders standing at its entrance, and a dangerous reef can be
-distinctly seen from the deck as the steamer apparently runs directly
-upon it, until the pilot swerves the boat aside, seemingly just in
-time. Then, tossing for a few moments upon the white-crested waves of
-the "Cascades," the steamer glides peacefully upon the tranquil
-surface of Lake St. Louis, which is fifteen miles long, and receives
-from the north the Ottawa River. Each little village on the banks of
-the lake and rivers is conspicuous from the large Roman Catholic
-Church around which it clusters, the steep bright tin roof and spire
-far out-topping all the other buildings. At the lower end of the lake
-a series of light-ships guide vessels into Lachine Canal, which goes
-down to Montreal, avoiding Lachine rapids, three miles long, the
-shortest series, but most violent of them all. Here, at the head of
-the rapids, stood the early French explorer, sent out to search for
-"the road to Cathay," and looking over the great lake spread out
-before him, with a view like old ocean, he shouted "La Chine!" for he
-thought that China was beyond it. The Canadian Pacific Railway bridge
-spans the river, and skirting the southern shore is the Indian town of
-Caughnawaga, with its little old houses and light stone church, the
-"village on the rapids." The steamboat then slides down Lachine
-rapids, the most difficult and dangerous passage of all, though it
-lasts but a few minutes--the exciting inclined plane of water, with
-rocks ahead and rocks beneath, indicated by swift and foaming
-cataracts running over and between them, and by stout thumps against
-the keel, sometimes making every timber shiver, and the apparent
-danger giving keen zest to the termination of the voyage. These rapids
-passed, the current below quickly floats the steamboat under the great
-Victoria tubular bridge, carrying the Grand Trunk Railway over, and
-the broad stone quays of Montreal are spread along the bank, with rank
-after rank of noble buildings behind them, and the tall twin towers of
-Notre Dame Cathedral rising beyond, glistening under the rays of the
-setting sun.
-
-
-THE CITY OF MONTREAL.
-
-The delta of the great Ottawa--the "river of the traders," as the
-Indians named it, debouching by several mouths into the St. Lawrence,
-of which it is the chief tributary, makes a number of islands, and
-Montreal stands on the southeastern side of the largest of them, with
-the broad river flowing in front. St. Mary's current runs strongly
-past the quays, and out there are the pretty wooded mounds of St.
-Helen's Island, named after Helen Boullé, the child-wife of Samuel de
-Champlain, the first European woman who came to Canada. She was only
-twelve years old when he married her, he being aged forty-four, and
-after his death she became an Ursuline nun. The miles of city
-water-front are superbly faced with long-walled quays of solid
-limestone masonry, and marked by jutting piers enclosing basins for
-the protection of the shipping against the powerful current. At the
-extremities of the rows of shipping, on either hand, up and down
-stream, loom the huge grain elevators. The piers are about ten feet
-lower than the walled embankment fronting the city, this being done to
-allow the ice to pass over them when it breaks up at the end of
-winter, the movement--called the "Ice Shove"--being an imposing sight.
-The elongated Victoria Bridge stands upon its row of gray limestone
-piers guarding the horizon up-river to the southward. Many storehouses
-and stately buildings rise behind the wharves, and beyond these are
-myriads of steeples, spires and domes, with the lofty Notre Dame
-towers in front. The background is made by the imposing mountain
-giving Montreal its name, called Mont Real originally, and now known
-as Mount Royal, rising to an elevation of nine hundred feet. Few
-cities of its size can boast so many fine buildings. The excellent
-building-stone of the neighborhood, a gray limestone, is utilized
-extensively, and this adds to the ornamental appearance, the city
-rising upon a series of terraces stretching back from the river and
-giving many good sites for construction. Numerous, massive and
-elaborate, the multitude of costly houses devoted to religion, trade
-and private residences are both a surprise and a charm. Mount Royal,
-rising boldly behind them, gives not only a noble background to the
-view from the river, but also a grand point of outlook, displaying
-their beauties to the utmost. The city has wide streets, generally
-lined with trees, and various public squares adding to the
-attractiveness.
-
-But the most prominent characteristic of the Canadian metropolis is
-the astonishing number of its convents, churches, and pious houses
-for religious and charitable uses. Churches are everywhere, built by
-all denominations, many being most elaborate and costly. The religious
-zeal of the community, holding all kinds of ecclesiastical belief, has
-found special vent in the universal development of church building.
-This commendable trait is their natural heritage, for the earliest
-French settlements on the St. Lawrence were largely due to religious
-zeal. When Jacques Cartier ascended the St. Lawrence upon his second
-voyage in 1535, he heard from the Indians at Quebec of a greater town
-far up the river, and bent upon exploration, he sailed in boats up to
-the Iroquois settlement of Hochelaga. Wrapped in forests behind it
-rose the great mountain which he named Mont Real, the "royal
-mountain," and in front, encompassed with corn-fields, was the Indian
-village, surrounded by triple rows of palisades. Landing, Cartier's
-party were admitted within the defensive walls to the central public
-square, where the squaws examined them with the greatest curiosity,
-and the sick and lame Indians were brought up to be healed, the
-ancient historian writes, "as if a god had come down among them." No
-sooner had Cartier landed and been thus welcomed than he gave thanks
-to Heaven, and the warriors sat in silence while he read aloud the
-Passion of Our Lord, though they understood not a word. The religious
-services over, he distributed presents, and the French trumpeters
-sounded a warlike melody, vastly pleasing the Indians. They conducted
-Cartier's party to the summit of the mountain and showed them an
-extensive view over unbroken forests for many miles to the dark
-Adirondacks far away and the distant lighter green mountains, which he
-called the "Monts Verts," to the eastward. There is a tablet placed in
-Metcalfe Street near Sherbrooke Street which marks the supposed site
-of the Indian village of Hochelaga. In 1608, when Champlain came,
-Hochelaga had disappeared. The fierce Hurons had destroyed the village
-and driven out the Iroquois, who had gone far south to the Mohawk
-Valley.
-
-For three-quarters of a century the French seem to have waited after
-Cartier's voyages, before they made any serious attempt at settlement.
-Then there came a great religious revival, and they planned to combine
-religion and conquest in a series of expeditions in the early
-seventeenth century under the auspices of patron saints and sinners
-whose names are numerously reproduced in the nomenclature of Quebec
-Province, in mountains, rivers, lakes, bays, capes, counties, towns
-and streets. It was chiefly due to Champlain, however, that the French
-foothold was obtained. This great explorer, known as the "Father of
-Canada," was noted alike for personal bravery and religious fervor.
-His occupations in the New World were perilous journeys, prayers and
-fighting. He firmly planted the French race in America, and every
-characteristic then given "New France," as Canada was called, remains
-to-day in the Province of Quebec. His noted saying is preserved in the
-Canadian chronicles, that "the salvation of one soul is of more
-importance than the founding of a new empire." His system was to take
-possession for the Church and the French king, and then erect a cross
-and a chapel, around which the colony grew. During the half-century
-succeeding Champlain's first voyage, many Recollet and Jesuit
-missionary priests came over, traversing the country and making
-converts among the Indians, so that there were established
-settlements, half-religious and half-military, forming alliances with
-the neighboring Huron and Algonquin Indians, and ultimately waging the
-almost perpetual wars with their English and Iroquois foes to the
-southward. Champlain, in 1608, founded Quebec, where Cartier had
-previously discovered the Indian village of Stadacona, meaning the
-"narrowing of the river." Champlain also, in subsequent voyages,
-discovered Lakes Champlain, Ontario and Nipissing.
-
-
-RELIGIOUS FOUNDATION OF MONTREAL.
-
-The original settlement of Montreal was probably the most completely
-religious enterprise of the many early French colonizing expeditions
-to Canada. Dauversičre, a tax-gatherer of Anjou, was a religious
-devotee whose constant scourging with small chains and other
-torments, including a belt with more than twelve hundred sharp points,
-filled his father confessor with admiration. One day while at his
-devotions, an inward voice commanded him to found a new order of
-hospital nuns, and establish at the island called Mont Real in Canada
-a hospital or Hotel-Dieu for these nuns to conduct. But Mont Real
-being a wilderness where the hospital would be without patients, the
-island must be colonized to supply them, and the pious tax-gatherer
-was sorely perplexed. There was in Paris a young priest, Jean Jacques
-Olier, who was zealous and devout, and signalized his piety by much
-self-mortification, and one day while praying in church he thought he
-heard a voice from Heaven saying he was destined to be a light to the
-Gentiles, and that he was to form a society of priests and establish
-them on the island called Mont Real, in Canada, for the propagation of
-the true Faith. The old writers solemnly aver that both these men were
-totally ignorant of each other and of Canadian geography, yet they
-suddenly found themselves possessed, they knew not how, of the most
-exact details concerning the island, its size, shape, soil,
-productions, climate and situation; and they subsequently saw
-apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour encouraging them in the
-great work. Dauversičre went to Paris seeking aid to carry out his
-task, and met Olier in a chateau in the suburbs; the two men, who
-never before had seen or heard of each other, became at once
-familiar, and under holy inspiration fondly embraced each other; the
-tax-gatherer received communion at the hands of the priest; and then
-for three hours they walked together in the park forming their plans.
-They determined, as the pious chronicler records it, to "plant the
-banner of Christ in an abode of desolation and a haunt of demons, and
-to this end a band of priests and women were to invade the wilderness
-and take post between the fangs of the Iroquois." They believed in the
-mystic number, three, and proposed to found three religious
-communities--one of secular priests to direct the colonists and
-convert the Indians, one of nuns to nurse the sick, and one of nuns to
-teach the Faith to all the children, white and red.
-
-But money and men and women were necessary for the work. Soon, four
-others were found who had wealth, and the six formed the germ of the
-"Society of Notre Dame de Montreal," and among them seventy-five
-thousand livres were raised, equal to about as many dollars. They
-purchased the island, and their grant was confirmed by the king, and
-then they got together a colony of forty men, and needing a
-soldier-governor, Providence provided such a man in Paul de Chomedey,
-Sieur de Maisonneuve, a devout and valiant gentleman who had kept his
-faith intact, notwithstanding long service among the heretics of
-Holland, and loving his profession of arms, wished to consecrate his
-sword to the Church. The interest of the women was awakened, and
-ultimately the Society was increased to about forty-five persons,
-chosen for their devotion and their wealth. Among the women who
-founded the new colony was Mademoiselle Jeanne Mance, who was about
-thirty-four years of age when the Society was organized, and to whom
-we are told that Christ had appeared in a vision at the early age of
-seven years, and at the same tender age her biographer says she had
-bound herself to God by a vow of perpetual chastity. Mlle. Mance, by
-the divine inspiration, was filled with a longing to go to Canada, and
-she went to the port of Rochelle seeking a vessel. She had never
-before heard of Dauversičre, but by supernatural agencies she met him
-coming out of church, had a long conversation in which she learned his
-plan, declared she had found her destiny in "the ocean, the
-wilderness, the solitude, the Iroquois," and at once decided to go
-with Maisonneuve and his party.
-
-In February, 1641, with the Abbé Olier at their head, all the
-associates of the Society assembled in the Cathedral of Notre Dame, in
-Paris, before the altar of the Virgin, and by a most solemn ceremonial
-consecrated Mont Real to the Holy Family. It was henceforth to be a
-sacred town, called "Ville Marie de Montreal," and consecrated
-respectively, the Seminary of priests to Christ, the Hotel-Dieu to St.
-Joseph, and the Nuns' College to the Virgin. Subsequently to the
-colonization there appeared, in 1653, as the head of the latter, a
-maiden of Troyes, Marguerite Bourgeoys, a woman of most excellent good
-sense and a warm heart, who is described as having known neither
-miracles, ecstasies nor trances, her religion being of the affections
-and manifested in an absorbing devotion to duty. Late in the year the
-colony under Maisonneuve set sail, arriving too late, however, to
-ascend the St. Lawrence above Quebec, where they wintered. Here the
-Governor of Quebec, Montmagny, tried his best to dissuade them from
-going farther, desiring them to settle at Quebec, but Maisonneuve
-said, "It is my duty and my honor to found a colony at Montreal, and I
-would go if every tree were an Iroquois!" Here they gained an
-unexpected recruit in Madame de la Peltrie, foundress of the Order of
-Ursulines at Quebec, who abandoned their convent and carried off all
-the furniture she had lent them. In May, 1642, the party left Quebec
-in a flotilla of boats, deep laden with men, arms and stores, and a
-few days later approached Montreal island, when all on board raised a
-hymn of praise. Montmagny, who was to deliver possession of the
-island, was with them, and also Father Vimont, Superior of the
-missions, for the Jesuits had been invited to take spiritual charge of
-the young colony. On May 18, 1642, they landed at Montreal, at a spot
-where a little creek then flowed into the St. Lawrence, making a good
-landing-place, protected from the influence of the swift current of
-the river. There was a bordering meadow, and beyond rose the forest
-with its vanguard of scattered trees. The triangular graystone
-building, which is now the Custom House, down by the river, marks this
-spot where the city was founded. The historian Parkman, who has so
-faithfully delved into the ancient Canadian archives, thus relates the
-story of the original settlement:
-
-"Maisonneuve sprang ashore and fell on his knees. His followers
-imitated his example, and all joined their voices in enthusiastic
-songs of thanksgiving. Tents, baggage, arms and stores were landed. An
-altar was raised on a pleasant spot near at hand; and Mademoiselle
-Mance, with Madame de la Peltrie, aided by her servant Charlotte
-Barré, decorated it with a taste which was the admiration of the
-beholders. Now all the company gathered before the shrine. Here stood
-Vimont in the rich vestments of his office. Here were the two ladies
-with their servant; Montmagny, no very willing spectator; and
-Maisonneuve, a warlike figure, erect and tall, his men clustering
-around him,--soldiers, sailors, artisans and laborers,--all alike
-soldiers at need. They kneeled in reverent silence as the Host was
-raised aloft; and when the rite was over the priest turned and
-addressed them: 'You are a grain of mustard-seed, that shall rise and
-grow till its branches overshadow the earth. You are few, but your
-work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children shall
-fill the land.' The afternoon waned; the sun sank behind the western
-forest, and twilight came on. Fireflies were twinkling over the
-darkened meadow. They caught them, tied them with threads into shining
-festoons, and hung them before the altar where the Host remained
-exposed. Then they pitched their tents, lighted their bivouac fires,
-stationed their guards, and lay down to rest. Such was the birth-night
-of Montreal." Thus was piously planted the "grain of mustard-seed" of
-the devout and enthusiastic Vimont, which has expanded into a great
-city of probably three hundred thousand people, over half of them
-French and more than three-fourths Catholics, there being also a large
-Irish population.
-
-
-MONTREAL INSTITUTIONS.
-
-Montreal covers a surface five miles long by two miles wide, and its
-situation gives it great commercial importance. The people call it
-"the Queen of the St. Lawrence," standing at the head of ship
-navigation, where cargoes are exchanged with the internal canal and
-lake navigation system, the Grand Trunk Railway and the Canadian
-Pacific Railway crossing the continent, and both also having many
-connections with the United States. In 1809, the "Accommodation," the
-second steamboat in America, was built in Montreal, and began running
-to Quebec. The lion of Montreal is the Victoria Tubular Bridge, which
-was formally opened by the Prince of Wales on his American visit in
-1860. It was designed by Robert Stephenson and built by James Hodges
-at a cost of over $6,000,000. It is nearly ninety-two hundred feet
-long and stands upon twenty-six piers and abutments, the centre being
-about sixty feet above the summer level of the river, which flows
-beneath at the rate of seven miles an hour. Elaborate ice-fenders are
-on the up-stream side of the piers, there being an enormous
-ice-pressure when the spring freshets are running. It is the greatest
-bridge in the Dominion, and near it stands a huge boulder, marking the
-burial-place of the army of Irish emigrants who came over in 1847,
-sixty-five hundred dying at Montreal of ship-fever.
-
-The Sulpician Order has always been the great educator of priests in
-all French-speaking peoples, and it was founded by the Abbé Olier.
-Carrying out his intention, the "Seminary of St. Sulpice" was opened
-in Montreal in 1647. This is now an enormous and prosperous religious
-establishment, holding large possessions in and around the city. The
-"Gentlemen of the Seminary," as the members of the Order of Sulpicians
-are called in Montreal, are the successors of the first owners of the
-island, and they conduct a large secular business as landlords. Down
-in the heart of the old city, at the Place d'Armes, they have an
-antique quadrangle, surrounding a quiet garden, which is the official
-headquarters, and was the location of their ancient house. The curious
-French-looking towers fronting the Seminary were at one time
-loop-holed for musketry, and were garrisoned, when necessary, to beat
-off Indian raids upon the infant settlement. In the western suburbs
-there is a broad domain, known as the "Priests' Farm," where are an
-elaborate mass of buildings, making their present noted foundation,
-the "Great Seminary" and Montreal College, the former for the
-education of priests and the latter for the general education of
-youth, the delicious surrounding gardens being regarded as the finest
-on the fertile island.
-
-The "Hospital of the Hotel-Dieu de Ville Marie" is on the northeastern
-edge of the city, almost under the shadow of the mountain, and is one
-of the largest buildings in Canada, its dome rising one hundred and
-fifty feet over the spacious chapel. It was in this hospital, when
-first founded in a small way in 1647, that Mademoiselle Mance took up
-her abode. There are now over five hundred persons in the building,
-and it is conducted by eighty cloistered nuns, who never go outside
-the grounds. They are of the Order of St. Joseph, caring for the sick,
-the orphan, and the old and infirm. The "Sisters of the Congregation
-of Notre Dame," the "Black Nuns," as they are called, have their
-Mother House in Montreal, this being the teaching order founded by
-Marguerite Bourgeoys in 1653, she having then come out to Canada with
-Maisonneuve on his second voyage. "To this day," writes Parkman, "in
-crowded schoolrooms of Montreal and Quebec, fit monuments of her
-unobtrusive virtue, her successors instruct the children of the poor
-and embalm the pleasant memory of Marguerite Bourgeoys. In the martial
-figure of Maisonneuve, and the fair form of this gentle nun, we find
-the true heroes of Montreal." These "Black Nuns" conduct seventeen
-schools in the city, with over five thousand pupils. Their most
-extensive establishment is just out of town, on what are known as the
-"Monk Lands," and is called "Ville Marie." There are no less than six
-hundred nuns and novices in this order, and their pupils number twenty
-thousand in Canada and the United States.
-
-Another important Montreal institution is the "General Hospital of the
-Grey Sisters," popularly known as the "Grey Nunnery," occupying an
-extensive array of stone buildings in the southwestern part of the
-city. This order was first founded in 1692, but languished for nearly
-a half century, when a pious Canadian lady took it up. Originally it
-cared for the aged and infirm, but in 1755 this lady, Madame de
-Youville, discovered the body of a murdered infant, where is now
-Foundling Street, then a stream of water, into which the child had
-been thrown, and this led her to extend the objects of the institution
-so as to embrace orphans and foundlings. This is the great foundling
-hospital of Montreal. The order has the revenues of large estates, and
-there are about four hundred nuns and novices, over half being
-detailed in a large number of establishments throughout Canada.
-Several hundred foundlings are received every year, and over five
-hundred patients are cared for in Montreal, mostly the aged and
-infirm. The daughter of Ethan Allen, of Vermont, was a nun of this
-order, dying in 1819. This nunnery has many visitors, who attend
-worship with the Sisters in the beautiful chapel, and then go through
-the hospital, where the poor are cared for both in the morning and the
-evening of life. The crowds of little French children, dressed in the
-curious clothing of past centuries, sing for their visitors, and then
-comically scramble for the small coins tossed among them, which, after
-doing duty as playthings for a brief time, find their way into the
-charity box.
-
-Montreal is the headquarters in America of the well-known teaching
-order of the Christian Brothers. The Jesuits have St. Mary's College;
-and the Convent of the Sacred Heart and Hochelaga Convent, the Asylum
-of the Sisters of Providence and the Convent of the Good Shepherd are
-also prominent. The chief Protestant educational institution is McGill
-University, with a thousand students and seventy-five instructors,
-originally founded in 1821, through a bequest of $150,000, by James
-McGill, a native of Glasgow, who was one of the early successful
-merchants of Montreal. It has since been richly endowed, its
-properties being valued at over $1,000,000, and it has fine buildings
-and grounds near the mountain. Closely affiliated is the Presbyterian
-College of Montreal, devoted to the training of missionaries and
-clergymen, also provided with noble buildings. There is also a
-Wesleyan Theological College affiliated with McGill University. The
-peculiar religious conditions of Quebec Province have vested the
-educational management of the public schools in two Boards, one
-Protestant and the other Roman Catholic, separately governing each
-class of schools, and working in harmony under the Provincial
-Superintendent of Education, each Board having an office in Montreal.
-
-
-MONTREAL CHURCHES AND BUILDINGS.
-
-The Place d'Armes, down in the old part of the city, where is the
-original Seminary of St. Sulpice, is surrounded by famous structures.
-Here are the chief banks and insurance buildings and the head office
-of the Canadian Pacific Railway. The most noted of them is the
-Grecian-fronted Bank of Montreal, the largest financial institution in
-Canada, and believed, with the Canadian Pacific management, who are
-closely connected, to be the most potential force in the Dominion.
-Adjoining the old Seminary, and facing the square, is Montreal's most
-famous church--Notre Dame--its lofty front rising into the twin spires
-that overlook all the country round. Its pews seat ten thousand, and
-when crowded it accommodates fifteen thousand people. In one of the
-towers hangs "Le Gros Bourdon," the largest bell in America, called
-Jean Baptiste, and weighing nearly fifteen tons. The church is
-medićval Gothic, built of cut limestone, the spires rising two hundred
-and twenty-seven feet, and containing ten bells, making a chime upon
-which, on great occasions, tunes are played. The interior, like all
-the French Catholic churches, is brilliantly decorated, for the
-religious development is the same as that of France in the seventeenth
-century, everything contributing to the intensity of the devotion and
-the elaborateness of decoration and paraphernalia of the service. At
-High Mass, when crowded by worshippers, the choir filled with robed
-ecclesiastics officiating in the stately ceremonial, the effect is
-imposing. The original church of Notre Dame was built in 1671, a long,
-low structure with a high pitched roof. It was pulled down in 1824 and
-replaced by the present church, which was five years building, and is
-one of the largest churches in America, two hundred and fifty-five
-feet long. We are told that the architect, James O'Donnell, who is
-buried in the crypt, was a Protestant, but during the work became so
-impressed by his religious surroundings that he was converted to a
-Roman Catholic. The church is never closed, and at any time one can
-enter, and with the silent worshippers kneel at the shrine in a solemn
-stillness, in sharp contrast with the activity of the business quarter
-without. This remarkable contrast deeply impressed the ascetic
-Thoreau, whose boast was that he never attended church. "I soon found
-my way to the Church of Notre Dame," he writes. "I saw that it was of
-great size and signified something. Coming from the hurrahing mob and
-the rattling carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church
-and found ourselves instantly in an atmosphere which might be sacred
-to thought and religion, if one had any. It was a great cave in the
-midst of a city, and what were the altars and the tinsel but the
-sparkling stalactites into which you entered in a moment, and where
-the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and
-profitable thought? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day,
-is worth a thousand of our churches which are open only Sundays." When
-General Montgomery's American army captured Montreal in 1775, the
-square in front of Notre Dame was his parade-ground, and thus it got
-the name of Place d'Armes.
-
-The greatest church of Montreal is the new Cathedral of St. James,
-popularly known as St. Peter's, as yet incomplete, designed to
-reproduce, on a scale of one-half the dimensions, the grand Basilica
-at Rome. It is three hundred and thirty-three feet long, the transepts
-two hundred and twenty-five feet wide, and the stone dome two hundred
-and fifty feet high, making it the largest church in Canada. Four huge
-stone piers, each thirty-six feet thick, and thirty-two Corinthian
-columns, support this grand dome. The outside walls, built of the
-universal gray limestone, are massive but rough, and the roof, on
-account of the heavy snows, is sloping, but otherwise it reproduces
-all the special features of St. Peter's at Rome, including the
-portico, to be surmounted by colossal statues of the Apostles. The
-interior is being decorated with brilliant paintings representing
-scenes in the life of St. James. It is located on Dominion Square, and
-the Bishop's Palace adjoins it. One of the remarkable churches, though
-small, is Notre Dame de Lourdes, built and adorned with the single
-idea of expressing in visible form the dogma of the Immaculate
-Conception, with the appearance of the Virgin to the maiden in the
-grotto at Lourdes. It is superbly decorated, and is the only church of
-the kind in America, being well described as "like an illuminated
-Missal, which to a Protestant has interest as a work of art, and to a
-Catholic has the superadded interest of a work of devotion." Adjoining
-the Jesuit St. Mary's College is their solid stone Church of the Gesu,
-its lofty nave bounded by rich columns, and with the long transepts
-adorned by fine frescoes, some giving representations of scenes in
-Jesuit history and martyrdom. The great Episcopal Cathedral of Christ
-Church, a Latin cross in Early English architecture, reproduces the
-Salisbury Cathedral of England, with a spire two hundred and
-twenty-four feet high. There are also many other fine Protestant
-churches; and when it is realized that Montreal has a church for about
-every two thousand inhabitants, the care for its religious welfare
-will be realized. The Royal Victoria Hospital, a gift to the city in
-honor of the Queen's Jubilee, cost $1,000,000.
-
-The largest public square in the city is the Champ de Mars, formerly a
-parade-ground, adjoining which are two noble public buildings, the
-handsome Court-house, three hundred feet long, and the adjacent Hotel
-de Ville, nearly five hundred feet long. The Victoria Skating Rink,
-the largest in the world, is the most noted amusement structure. The
-city is noted for athletic sports, and toboggan slides abound, some of
-enormous length, down the mountain slopes. The Montreal Bonsecours
-Market is famed everywhere, and presents an imposing Doric front
-nearly five hundred feet long upon the river bank, surmounted by a
-domed tower. Here gather in force the French Canadian peasantry, known
-as the _habitans_, to sell their produce and wares, and it gives a
-quaint exhibition of old-time French customs. The ancient Church of
-Notre Dame de Bonsecours is alongside, originally founded by
-Marguerite Bourgeoys in 1673 for the reception of a miraculous statue
-of the Virgin, entrusted to her by one of the associates of the
-Society founding Montreal, Baron de Faucamp. The church was burnt and
-then rebuilt in 1771, and is a quaint structure of a style rarely seen
-outside of Normandy, having shops built up against it after the
-fashion common in old European towns. Thus does this famous city
-combine the methods and styles of the Middle Ages with the manners and
-enterprises of to-day. It is an impressive fact that notwithstanding
-the prodigious religious development, all the denominations get on
-without friction. There is an underlying spirit of toleration, and it
-is recorded that after the British conquest of Canada the Protestants
-who came into Montreal occupied one of the Catholic churches for
-worship, assembling after the Catholic morning mass; and that for
-twenty years after 1766 the Church of England people occupied the
-Catholic church of the Recollets every Sunday afternoon. The
-Presbyterians are said to have also used the same church prior to
-1792, and then having removed into a church of their own, they
-presented the priests of the Recollet church a gift of candles for the
-high altar and of wine for the mass as a token of good will and their
-thanks for the gratuitous use of the church. Then the churches were
-few, but now all denominations have their own, and numerously.
-
-
-MONTREAL SURROUNDINGS.
-
-The suburbs are attractive, and gradually dissolve into the gardens
-and farms of the French husbandmen, living in comfortable houses with
-steep roofs, fronted by and sometimes almost embedded in foliage and
-flowers. Occasionally an ancient windmill is perched on a hill,
-stretching out its broad gyrating sails, as in old Normandy. There are
-frequent villages along the St. Lawrence, each clustered around its
-church. At Caughnawaga, already referred to, there is an extensive
-church with a tall and shining white tin-covered spire, and in a
-rather sorry-looking group of houses around it live the few who are
-left of the descendants of the once warlike and powerful Mohawks,
-known as the "praying Indians," here long ago gathered by the zealous
-missionary priests of St. Sulpice. At Lachine, spreading opposite on
-the western shore of the St. Lawrence for several miles, is a popular
-place of suburban residence, with rows of pleasant villas lining the
-banks of Lake St. Louis. Over beyond this lake comes in the main
-channel of Ottawa River, with the rapids of St. Anne flowing down from
-another inland sea made by its prolonged enlargement, the "Lake of the
-Two Mountains." A canal flanks these rapids, and the village of St.
-Anne has grown around its ancient church, which is deeply reverenced
-by the Canadian boatmen and voyageurs on these waters as their special
-shrine, for in the early days all the fur-trading with the great
-Canadian northwest was by canoes and bateaux on the Ottawa and Lake
-Nipissing, and thence by portage to Lake Huron. Here came many years
-ago, on a bateau down the St. Lawrence, the minstrel bard, Tom Moore,
-and inspired by the locality, he composed in a cottage, still pointed
-out, his noted "Canadian Boat Song":
-
-     "Faintly as tolls the evening chime,
-     Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time.
-     Soon as the woods on shore look dim,
-     We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn.
-         Row, brothers, row; the stream runs fast,
-         The rapids are near, and the daylight's past.
-
-     "Ottawa's tide! this trembling moon
-     Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon.
-     Saint of this green isle! hear our prayers:
-     O, grant us cool heavens, and favoring airs!
-         Blow, breezes, blow; the stream runs fast,
-         The rapids are near, and the daylight's past."
-
-On the northern shore of the "Lake of the Two Mountains," with Oka
-village nestling at the base, where an Indian colony live, are the two
-mountains from which the lake is named. One, surmounted by a cross, is
-Mount Calvary, having various religious shrines on its summit, and
-seven chapels on the road up, representing the seven stations of the
-cross. Here is also a monastery of the French "farmer Monks," the
-Trappists, who cultivate a large surface. They live a secluded life
-under ascetic rules, are not allowed to talk to each other, and only
-men enter the monastery, all women being stopped at the threshold.
-They rise at two o'clock in the morning, take breakfast soon
-afterwards in absolute silence, this being the only meal of the day,
-and retire to rest immediately after prayers at sunset. They devote
-twelve hours daily to devotions, and labor in the fields the remainder
-of the waking time. Their food is a scant allowance of water and
-vegetables. They sleep on a board with a straw pillow, and never
-undress, even in sickness. They are a branch of the Cistercians, and
-their abode overlooks the placid lake, with Montreal spreading beyond.
-But the city's finest suburban possession is its Mountain, the summit
-being a pleasant park, and the slopes covered with luxuriant foliage,
-which in the autumn becomes a blazing mass of resplendent beauty when
-the frosts turn the leaves. From the top the view is of unrivalled
-magnificence.
-
-
-THE GRAND RIVER.
-
-The Ottawa River is the most important tributary of the St. Lawrence,
-over seven hundred miles long, and draining a basin of one hundred
-thousand square miles, the most productive pine-timber region
-existing. It was the "Grand River" of the early French-Canadian
-voyageurs, and the name of Ottawa, changed considerably from the
-original form, comes from the Indian tribe and means "the traders." It
-has a circuitous course; rising in Western Quebec province, it flows
-northwest and then west for three hundred miles to Lake Temiscamingue,
-on the border of Ontario province; then it turns and flows back
-southeastward, making the boundary between the provinces for four
-hundred miles, until it falls into the St. Lawrence, the vast volume
-of its dark waters pressing the latter's blue current against the
-farther shore. It is a romantic river, filled with rapids and
-cascades, at times broadening into lakes, and again contracted into a
-torrent barely fifty yards wide, where the waters are precipitated
-over the rocks in wild splendor. For twenty-five miles above its mouth
-it broadens into the "Lake of the Two Mountains," from one to six
-miles wide. Above the city of Ottawa there are rapids terminating in
-the famous Chaudičre Falls, where the waters plunge down forty feet,
-and part are said to disappear through an underground passage of
-unknown outlet. It has an enormous lumber trade, and by a canal
-system, avoiding the rapids, has been made navigable for two hundred
-and fifty miles. The Rideau River enters from the south at Ottawa,
-making the route by which the Rideau Canal goes over to Lake Ontario
-at Kingston. The Gatineau River also flows in at Ottawa, being of
-great volume, over four hundred miles long, and a prolific timber
-producer. In the villages around Montreal all the saints in the
-calendar are named, so that, starting on an exploration of Ottawa
-River, the route goes by St. Martin, St. Jean, St. Rose, St. Therese,
-St. Jerome, St. Lin, St. Eustache, St. Augustine, St. Scholastique,
-St. Hermes, St. Phillippe, and many more. But when the great religious
-city is left behind the saints cease to appear, and everything in the
-Ottawa valley above is generally otherwise named. This valley is
-usually a broad and level intervale, with only an occasional rocky
-buttress pressing upon the river. At one of these passes, in 1660, a
-handful of valiant men held the stockade at Carillon, the foot of Long
-Sault rapids, sacrificing their lives to save the early colony from
-the Indians, the place being known as the "French Canadian
-Thermopylć." The full force of the Iroquois warriors were in arms up
-the Ottawa, over a thousand of them, threatening to drive the French
-out of Montreal. Dollard des Ormeaux and sixteen companions took the
-sacrament in the little Montreal church, made their wills, and bound
-themselves by an oath neither to give nor take quarter. A few
-Algonquins joined them, and going up the river they hastily built a
-stockaded fort at this pass. Soon the Iroquois canoes came dancing
-down the rapids, and discovering the fort, they surrounded and
-attacked it, but were repulsed day after day, until every one of the
-brave garrison had been killed, when the Iroquois had lost so many of
-their own warriors that they tired of the fighting, and avoiding
-Montreal, returned southward to their own country. Some fugitive
-Indians told the heroic story, which George Murray has woven into his
-ballad:
-
-     "Eight days of varied horror passed; what boots it now to tell
-     How the pale tenants of the fort heroically fell?
-     Hunger and thirst and sleeplessness, Death's ghastly aids, at
-       length,
-     Marred and defaced their comely forms, and quelled their giant
-       strength.
-     The end draws nigh--they yearn to die--one glorious rally more,
-     For the dear sake of Ville Marie and all will soon be o'er;
-     Sure of the martyr's golden Crown, they shrink not from the Cross,
-     Life yielded for the land they loved, they scorn to reckon loss."
-
-Some distance above, at the Chateau Montebello, lived in the early
-nineteenth century Louis Joseph Papineau, the "French-Canadian
-O'Connell," the seigneur of the district, who was the local leader in
-resistance to English aggressions, of whom the French are very proud,
-and his portrait hangs in the Parliament House at Ottawa. He was
-defeated, banished and then pardoned, and lived here to a ripe old age
-to see many of the reforms and privileges for which he had contended
-fully realized under subsequent administrations. The Riviere aux
-Ličvres rushes into the Ottawa down a turbulent cascade, through which
-logs dash until caught in the booms at the sawmills below, where are
-vast lumber piles. This river is two hundred and eighty miles long,
-and just above its mouth has a fall at Buckingham of seventy feet,
-giving an enormous water-power. The whole region hereabout is devoted
-to lumbering. The French _habitan_ from Lower Quebec comes up into
-this wilderness of woods with scarcely any capital but his axe, in the
-use of which he is expert. These Canadians do not like leaving their
-homes, but are compelled by sheer necessity. When the old Quebec farm
-has been subdivided among the children, under the French system, until
-the long, ribbon-like strips of land become so narrow between the
-fences that there is no opportunity for further sub-division, the
-young men must seek a livelihood elsewhere. The old man gives them a
-blessing, with a good axe and two or three dollars, and they start for
-the lumber camps. They catch abundant fish, can live on almost
-nothing, and need only buy their flour and salt, with some pork for a
-luxury. These lumbermen often wear picturesque costumes like the old
-voyageurs, and they like flaming red scarfs. They are as polite as the
-most courtly French gentleman, and pass their evenings in dancing,
-with music and singing the ancient songs of their forefathers,
-scorning anything modern. Many of them are Metis, or half-breeds, the
-descendants of French and Indians. These are more heavy featured and
-not so sprightly as the pure French, but they are equally skillful
-woodmen, and have inherited many good traits from both races, though
-they rather regard with pity their full-blooded Indian half-brothers,
-whose lot is scarcely as favorable. All these people are devout
-Catholics, and going up into the woods in the late autumn and
-remaining until after Easter, the priests always visit their camps to
-attend to their spiritual wants. An impressive scene in these vast
-forests in the dawn of a cold winter morning is to see the priest
-standing with outstretched arms at the rude altar, the light of the
-candles revealing the earnest faces of his flock as they reverentially
-attend the mass. These woodmen are firm believers in the
-supernatural, convinced that the spirits of the dead come back in
-various shapes. If a single crow is seen they are sure a calamity has
-occurred; if two crows fly before them it means a wedding. An owl
-hooting indicates impending danger. They are always hearing strange
-voices at night, or seeing ominous shapes in the twilight wood
-shadows. The Metis are good hunters, and great is their joy when a
-belated bear is found near the camp, or a deer or moose is tracked in
-the snow. Their lumbering is done near the streams, so the logs may be
-thrown in and floated down by the spring freshets. They make a vast
-product of timber, sold throughout the lakes and St. Lawrence region,
-much going across the Atlantic.
-
-
-THE DOMINION CAPITAL.
-
-The earliest settler at the portage around the Chaudičre Falls of the
-Ottawa was Philemon Wright, of Woburn, Massachusetts, who came along
-in 1800, and not getting on successfully, sold out about twenty years
-later to cancel a debt of $200. Subsequently there was established at
-the confluence of the three rivers, Ottawa, Rideau and Gatineau, by
-Colonel By, a British military post and Indian trading-station, around
-which in time a settlement grew which was called Bytown, distant about
-a hundred miles from the St. Lawrence River. It was incorporated a
-city in 1854 by the name of Ottawa; and when the Dominion
-Confederation was formed in 1858 there was so much contention about
-the claims of rival cities to be the capital--Montreal, Toronto,
-Kingston and Quebec all being urged--that Queen Victoria, to finally
-settle the matter, selected Ottawa. There is a population of about
-sixty thousand, but excepting from the noble location of the
-magnificent public buildings, the political importance of the city
-does not attract the visitor so much as the business development. The
-lumber trade makes the first and greatest impression; landing among
-boards and sawdust, walking amid timber piles and over wooden
-sidewalks, with slabs, blocks and planks everywhere in endless
-profusion, the rushing waters filled with floating logs and sawdust,
-busy saws running, planing-machines screeching, the canals carrying
-lumber cargoes, the rivers lined with acres of board piles--an idea is
-got of what the lumber trade of the Ottawa valley is. The timber is
-almost all white and yellow pine. Alongside the Chaudičre Falls at the
-western verge of the town are clustered the great sawmills, while
-capacious slides shoot the logs down, which are to be floated farther
-along to the St. Lawrence. There are also large flour-mills and other
-factories getting power from this cataract.
-
-  [Illustration: _Chaudičre Falls, St. Lawrence_]
-
-The Chaudičre, or the "Cauldron," is a remarkable cataract, and the
-Indians were so terrified by it, that to propitiate its evil genius we
-are told they usually threw in a little tobacco before traversing
-the portage around it. The rapids begin about six miles above,
-terminating in this great boiling cauldron with a sheer descent of
-forty feet, which is as curious as it is grand. Owing to the peculiar
-formation of the enclosing rocks, all the waters of the broad river
-are converged into a sort of basin about two hundred feet wide,
-plunging in with vast commotion and showers of spray. Efforts have
-been made to sound this strange cauldron, but the lead has not found
-bottom at three hundred feet depth. The narrowness of the passage
-between the enclosing rocky walls, just below the falls, has enabled a
-bridge to be built across, connecting Ottawa with the suburb of Hull.
-Here is given an admirable view of the foaming, descending waters,
-clouds of spray, and at times gorgeous rainbows, flanked by timber
-piles and sawmills, sending out rushing streams of water and sawdust
-into the river below. Near by a chain of eight massive locks brings
-the Rideau Canal down through a fissure in the high bank to the level
-of the lower Ottawa, its sides being almost perpendicularly cut by the
-action of water in past ages. The locks are a Government work, of
-solid masonry, well built, and the fissure divides Ottawa into the
-Upper and the Lower Town, pretty bridges being thrown across it on the
-lines of the principal streets. The Rideau Canal follows the Rideau
-River upwards southwest to the Lake Ontario level, and in the whole
-distance of one hundred and twenty-six miles to Kingston, overcomes
-four hundred and forty-six feet by forty-seven locks. Much of the
-suburb of Hull and a considerable part of Ottawa, with enormous
-amounts of lumber, were destroyed by a great fire in April, 1900, a
-high wind fanning the flames that were spread by the inflammable
-materials.
-
-Upon Barrack Hill, at an elevation of one hundred and fifty feet,
-surrounded by ornamental grounds, and having the Ottawa River flowing
-at the western base, stand the Government buildings. They are
-magnificent structures, costing nearly $4,000,000, the Prince of Wales
-having laid the corner-stone on his visit in 1860. They are built of
-cream-colored sandstone, with red sandstone and Ohio stone trimmings,
-the architecture being Italian Gothic, and they stand upon three sides
-of a grass-covered quadrangle, and occupy an area of four acres. They
-include the Parliament House, the chief building, and all the Dominion
-Government offices. The former is four hundred and seventy-two feet
-long, the other buildings on the east and west sides of the quadrangle
-being somewhat smaller. All are impressive, their great elevation
-enabling their towers and spires to be seen for many miles. The
-legislative chambers are richly furnished, and Queen Victoria's
-portrait is on the walls of one House, and those of King George III.
-and Queen Charlotte upon the other. The Parliamentary Library, a
-handsome polygonal structure of sixteen angles, adjoins. The
-Governor-General resides in Rideau Hall, across the Rideau River.
-From a little pavilion out upon the western edge of Barrack Hill, high
-above the Ottawa, there is a long view over the western and northern
-country, whence that river comes. To the left is the rolling land of
-Ontario province, and to the right the distant hills and looming blue
-mountains of Quebec, the river dividing them. Behind the pavilion is
-the stately Parliament House, its noble Victoria Tower, seen from
-afar, rising two hundred and twenty feet.
-
-
-MONTREAL TO QUEBEC.
-
-The broad St. Lawrence River flows one hundred and eighty miles from
-Montreal to Quebec. A succession of parishes is passed, each with its
-lofty church and presbytčre, reproducing the picturesque buildings of
-old Normandy and Brittany, with narrow windows and steep roofs, all
-covered with shining white tin which the dry air preserves. Little
-villages cluster around the churches, with long stretches of arable
-lands between. Among a mass of wooded islands on the northern bank,
-the turbid waters of the lower Ottawa outlet flow in, the edge of the
-clearer blue of the St. Lawrence being seen for some distance below.
-The delta makes green alluvial islands and shoals. Thus we sail down
-the great river, past shores that were long ago very well settled.
-
-     "Past little villages we go,
-     With quaint old gable ends that glow
-       Bright in the sunset's fire;
-     And, gliding through the shadows still,
-     Oft notice, with a lover's thrill,
-       The peeping of a spire."
-
-In the eighteenth century, Kalm, a Swedish tourist in America, said it
-could be really called a village, beginning at Montreal and ending at
-Quebec, "for the farmhouses are never more than five arpents apart,
-and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted;" and two
-centuries ago a traveller on the river wrote that the houses "were
-never more than a gunshot apart." All the people are French, retaining
-the language and old customs, simple-minded and primitive, the same as
-under the ancient French régime, and excepting that one village,
-Varennes, has put two towers upon its stately church, all of them are
-exactly alike. It is recorded that in Champlain's time some Huguenot
-sailors came up the river piously singing psalm tunes. This did not
-please the officials, and soon a boat with soldiers put off from one
-of these villages, and the officer in charge told them that
-"Monseigneur, the Viceroy, did not wish that they should sing psalms
-on the great river." The first steamer that came along the St.
-Lawrence created unlimited dread, horrifying the villagers. Solemnly
-crossing himself, an old voyageur, who probably thought his trade on
-the waters endangered, exclaimed, in his astonishment, "But can you
-believe that the good God will permit all that?"
-
-The Richelieu River, the outlet of Lake Champlain, comes in at Sorel,
-the chief affluent on the southern bank, its canal system making a
-navigable connection with the Hudson River. Cardinal Richelieu took
-great interest in early Canadian colonization, and Fort Richelieu was
-built at the mouth of this river, being afterwards enlarged to prevent
-Iroquois forays, by Captain Sorel, whose name is preserved in the
-town. Below, there is an archipelago of low alluvial islands, and the
-St. Lawrence broadens out into Lake St. Peter, nine or ten miles wide,
-and generally shallow, this being the head of the tidal influence. On
-its southern side flows in the St. Francis River, the outlet of Lake
-Memphremagog and of many streams and lakes in the vast wilderness
-along the boundary north of Vermont and east of Lake Champlain. At its
-mouth is the little village of St. François du Lac. As the shores
-contract below Lake St. Peter, the town of Three Rivers is passed
-midway between Montreal and Quebec. Here the fine river St. Maurice,
-another great lumber-producing stream, flows in upon the northern
-bank, two little islands dividing its mouth into a delta of three
-channels, thus naming the town. The St. Maurice is full of rapids and
-cataracts, the chief being Shawanagan Fall, about twenty miles inland,
-noted for its grandeur and remarkable character. The river, suddenly
-bending and divided into two streams by a pile of rocks, falls nearly
-one hundred and fifty feet and dashes against an opposing wall, where
-the reunited stream forces its way through a narrow passage scarcely a
-hundred feet wide. The two lofty rocks bounding this abyss are called
-La Grande Mere and Le Bon Homme. The headwaters of St. Maurice
-interlock with some of those of the gloomy Saguenay north of Quebec.
-An enormous output of lumber comes down to Three Rivers, and the
-district also produces much bog iron ore. Here are extensive sawmills,
-iron-works, and one of the largest paper-pulp establishments in
-America, the unrivalled water-power being thus utilized. Below the St.
-Maurice, as the outcropping foothills from the Laurentian Mountains
-approach the river, the scenery becomes more picturesque. The
-Richelieu rapids are here, requiring careful navigation among the
-rocks, and Jacques Cartier River comes in from the north. In front of
-St. Augustin village, years ago, the steamer "Montreal" was burnt with
-a loss of two hundred lives, and on the outskirts is an ancient ruined
-church, which is said to have fallen in decay because the devil
-assisted at its building. This was in 1720, and the tradition is that
-His Satanic Majesty appeared in the form of a powerful black stallion,
-who hauled the blocks of stone, until his driver, halting at a
-watering-trough, where there was also a small receptacle of holy water
-for the faithful, unbridled the horse, who became suddenly restive and
-vanished in a cloud of sulphurous smoke. Many pious pilgrimages are
-made to the present fine church of the village, having a statue of
-the guardian angel standing out in front, commemorating the Vatican
-Council of 1870. As Quebec is approached, the "coves" are seen on the
-northern shore, arranged with booms for the timber ships, for easier
-transfer of lumber from the rafts floated down the river, and the
-steep bluffs behind run off into Cape Diamond, projecting far across
-the stream. Old Sillery Church stands up with its tall spire atop of
-the bold bluff, with a monastery behind it. Here Noel Brulart de
-Sillery, Knight of Malta, in 1637, established one of the early Jesuit
-missions. Point Levis stretches from the southern bank to narrow the
-river channel. The low gray walls of the citadel surmount the highest
-point of the extremity of Cape Diamond, and rounding it, we are at
-Quebec.
-
-
-ORIGIN OF QUEBEC.
-
-Whence comes the name of Quebec? "Quel bec! Quel bec!"--(What a
-beak!)--shouted Jacques Cartier's astonished sailors, when, sailing up
-the St. Lawrence, they first beheld the startling promontory of Cape
-Diamond, thrust in towering majesty almost across the river. Thus,
-says one tradition, by a natural elision, was named Quebec, when the
-Europeans first saw the rock in 1535. Another derivation comes from
-Candebec on the Seine, which it much resembles. The Indian word
-"Kebic," meaning "the fearful rocky cliff," may have been its origin.
-The Indian village of Stadacona was here when Cartier found it, a
-cluster of wigwams fringing the shore in front of the bold cliff, its
-people bearing allegiance to the Montaignais chief, Donnacona. Here
-the ancient chronicle records that Cartier saw a "mighty promontory,
-rugged and bare, thrust its scarped front into the raging current,"
-and he planted the cross and lilies of France and took possession for
-his king. Returning to Europe, he took back as prisoners the chief,
-Donnacona, and several of his warriors, their arrival making a great
-sensation. They were fęted and prayed for, and becoming converted,
-were baptised with pomp in the presence of a vast assemblage in the
-magnificent Cathedral of Rouen. But the round of pleasure and
-feasting, with the excess of excitement, overcame these children of
-the forest, and they all died within a year. Colonization on the St.
-Lawrence, after Cartier's voyages, languished for seventy years,
-various ill-starred expeditions failing, and it was not until 1608
-that the city of Quebec was really founded by Samuel de Champlain, who
-was sent out by a company of associated noblemen of France to
-establish a fur trade with the Indians and open a new field for the
-Church, the Roman Catholic religion being then in the full tide of
-enthusiasm which in the seventeenth century made what was known as the
-"counter reformation." Champlain built a fort and established the
-province of New France, but his colony was of slow growth. There
-subsequently came out the military and commercial adventurers and
-religious enthusiasts, who were the first settlers of the new empire.
-The Recollet Fathers came in 1615, and the Jesuit missionary priests
-in 1625 and subsequently. The famous Canadian bishop, Laval de
-Montmorency, Father Hennepin, and the Sieur de la Salle, all came out
-in the same ship at a later period. Thus was founded the great French
-Catholic power in North America.
-
-The Church thoroughly ruled the infant colony of Quebec. In the fort,
-black-garbed Jesuits and scarfed officers mingled at Champlain's
-table. Parkman says, "There was little conversation, but in its place,
-histories and the lives of saints were read aloud, as in a monastic
-refectory; prayers, masses and confessions followed each other with an
-edifying regularity, and the bell of the adjacent chapel, built by
-Champlain, rang morning, noon, and night; godless soldiers caught the
-infection, and whipped themselves in penance for their sins; debauched
-artisans outdid each other in the fury of their contrition; Quebec was
-become a mission." Champlain died at Christmas, 1635, after a long
-illness, at the age of sixty-eight, the "Father of Canada," and Quebec
-was without a Governor for a half-year. Finally, the next summer, the
-Father Superior, Le Jeune, who had been directing affairs, espied a
-ship, and going down to the landing, was met by the new Governor, de
-Montmagny, a Knight of Malta, with a long train of officers and
-gentlemen. We are told that "as they all climbed the rock together,
-Montmagny saw a crucifix planted by the path. He instantly fell on his
-knees before it; and nobles, soldiers, sailors and priests imitated
-his example. The Jesuits sang Te Deum at the church, and the cannon
-roared from the adjacent fort. Here the new Governor was scarcely
-installed, when a Jesuit came in to ask if he would be godfather to an
-Indian about to be baptized. 'Most gladly,' replied the pious
-Montmagny. He repaired on the instant to the convert's hut, with a
-company of gaily-apparelled gentlemen; and while the inmates stared in
-amazement at the scarlet and embroidery, he bestowed on the dying
-savage the name of Joseph, in honor of the spouse of the Virgin and
-the patron of New France. Three days after, he was told that a dead
-proselyte was to be buried, on which, leaving the lines of the new
-fortification he was tracing, he took in hand a torch, De Lisle, his
-lieutenant, took another, Repentigny and St. Jean, gentlemen of his
-suite, with a band of soldiers, followed, two priests bore the corpse,
-and thus all moved together in procession to the place of burial. The
-Jesuits were comforted. Champlain himself had not displayed a zeal so
-edifying." The spiritual power thus so zealously exerted thoroughly
-controlled Quebec, and its masterful force always continued.
-
-
-THE FRENCH-CANADIAN MISSIONARIES.
-
-Boundless was the power exerted when the religious envoys of this
-wonderful colony spread over the interior of America. When the heroic
-bishop Laval de Montmorency stood on the altar-steps of his Basilica
-at Quebec, he could wave his crozier over half a continent, from the
-island of St. Pierre Miquelon to the source of the Mississippi, and
-from the St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico. The Jesuits' College at
-Quebec was started in a small way as early as 1637, and from it, year
-after year, issued forth the dauntless missionaries, carrying the
-gospel out among the Indians for over three thousand miles into the
-interior, preaching the faith beyond the Mississippi, and down its
-valley, throughout Louisiana, many suffering death and martyrdom in
-its most cruel forms. Nowhere in the church annals exists a grander
-chapter than the record of these missionaries. Unarmed and alone, they
-travelled the unexplored continent, bravely meeting every horrible
-torture and lingering death inflicted by the vindictive savages, whom
-they went out to bless. The world was amazed at their sufferings and
-achievements. Even Puritan New England, we are told, received their
-envoy with honors, the apostle Eliot entertaining him at Roxbury
-parsonage, while Boston, Salem and Plymouth became his gracious hosts.
-These devoted men loved the new country. "To the Jesuits," we are
-told in their annals, "the atmosphere of Quebec was well-nigh
-celestial. In the climate of New France one learns perfectly to seek
-only one God; to have no desire but God; no purpose but for God. To
-live in New France is in truth to live in the bosom of God. If anyone
-of those who die in this country goes to perdition," writes Le Jeune,
-"I think he will be doubly guilty." For years old France sent over a
-multitude to reinforce these missions. They were urged on by rank,
-wealth and power in the great work of converting the heathen, and the
-noblest motives gave these missions life. Solitude, toil, privation,
-hardship and death were the early French missionary's portion, yet
-nothing made his zeal or courage flag. The saints and angels of their
-faith hovered around these Jesuit martyrs with crowns of glory and
-garlands of immortal bliss. It was no wonder that the French and
-Jesuit influence soon extended far beyond the mere circle of converts.
-It modified and softened the rude manners of many unconverted tribes.
-Parkman, from whom I have already quoted, records that "in the wars of
-the next century we do not often find those examples of diabolic
-atrocity with which the earlier annals are crowded. The savage burned
-his enemies alive, it is true, but he seldom ate them; neither did he
-torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. He was a
-savage still, but not so often a devil."
-
-The French missionary priests survived the period of torture and
-trial, and became, in fact, the revered rulers of many of the Indian
-tribes. They thoroughly assimilated and learned the languages. The
-priest, regarded with awe and affection, knew so much, and was so
-skillful as counsellor and physician, that the untutored savage came
-to look upon him almost as a supernatural being. The biographer of the
-venerable Father Davion, who governed the Yazoos in Louisiana, tells
-how the Indians regarded him as more than human. "Had they not, they
-said, frequently seen him at night, with his dark solemn gown, not
-walking, but gliding through the woods like something spiritual? How
-could one so weak in frame, and using so little food, stand so many
-fatigues? How was it that whenever one of them fell sick, however
-distant it might be, Father Davion knew it instantly and was sure to
-be there before sought for? Did any of his prophecies ever prove
-false? What was it he was in the habit of muttering so long, when
-counting the beads of that mysterious chain that hung round his neck?
-Was he not then telling the Great Spirit every wrong they had done? So
-they both loved and feared Father Davion. One day they found him dead
-at the foot of the altar; he was leaning against it with his head cast
-back, with his hands clasped, and still retaining his kneeling
-position. There was an expression of rapture in his face, as if to his
-sight the gates of Paradise had suddenly unfolded themselves to give
-him admittance; it was evident that his soul had exhaled into a
-prayer, the last on this earth, but terminating no doubt in a hymn of
-rejoicing above." But great as may be the spectacle of triumphant
-martyrdom, there are yet men unwilling to change places with the
-missionary priest. Ralph Waldo Emerson writes in _The Problem_:
-
-     "I like a church; I like a cowl;
-     I love a prophet of the soul;
-     And on my heart monastic aisles
-     Fall like sweet strains, or pensive smiles:
-     Yet not for all his faith can see
-     Would I that cowléd churchman be."
-
-But others also came to New France besides priests and martyrs; the
-adventurers and beggared noblemen--poor, uneducated, yet bold and
-courageous. The historian tells us of "the beggared noble of the early
-time" who came over, "never forgetting his quality of _gentilhomme_;
-scrupulously wearing its badge the sword, and copying, as well as he
-could, the fashions of the court which glowed on his vision across the
-sea with all the effulgence of Versailles and beamed with reflected
-ray from the Chateau of Quebec. He was at home among his tenants, at
-home among the Indians, and never more at home than when, a gun in his
-hand and a crucifix on his breast, he took the warpath with a crew of
-painted savages and Frenchmen almost as wild, and pounced like a lynx
-from the forest on some lonely farm or outlying hamlet of New
-England. How New England hated him, let her records tell. The reddest
-blood-streaks on her old annals mark the track of the Canadian
-_gentilhomme_."
-
-
-QUAINT OLD QUEBEC.
-
-Thus created a thoroughly French region, Lower Canada still maintains
-the religious character of the original colony. The geographical names
-are mostly those of the saints and fathers of the Church, and much of
-the land is owned by religious bodies. The population is four-fifths
-French, and nowhere does the Church to-day show more vitality or
-command more thorough devotion. The city of Quebec almost stands still
-in population, having about seventy thousand, of whom five-sixths are
-French. It is now just as Champlain made it, though larger, a
-fortress, trading-station and church combined, and quaintly attractive
-in all three phases. No finer location could have been selected for a
-town and seaport, and no more impregnable position found to guard the
-St. Lawrence passage than its junction with the river St. Charles. An
-elevated tongue of land stretches along the northwestern bank of the
-St. Lawrence for several miles, and from behind it comes out the St.
-Charles. Below their junction the broad Isle of Orleans blocks the
-way, dividing the St. Lawrence into two channels, while above, the
-noble river contracts to the "Narrows," less than a mile in width,
-making a strait guarded all along by bold shores. At the northern
-extremity of this tongue of land, and opposite the "Narrows" of the
-river, rises the lofty cliff of Cape Diamond, three hundred and fifty
-feet above the water, the citadel crowning the hill and overlooking
-the town nestling at its foot. The fortifications spread all around
-the cliff and its approaches, completely guarding the rivers and the
-means of access by land; but it is now all peaceful, being only a
-show-place for sight-seers. As may be imagined, this grand fortress is
-magnificent to look at from the water approach, while the outlook from
-the ramparts and terraces on top of the cliff is one of the finest
-sights over town and rivers, hills and woods, in the world.
-
-Quebec is quaint, ancient and picturesque, presenting strange
-contrasts. A fortress and commercial mart have been built together on
-the summit of a rock, like an eagle's nest. It is a French city in
-America, ruled by the English, and was held mainly by Scotch and Irish
-troops; a town with the institutions of the middle ages under modern
-constitutional government, having torrid summers and polar winters,
-and a range of the thermometer from thirty degrees below zero to one
-hundred degrees above. When Charles Dilke came here he thought he was
-back in the European Middle Ages. He found "gates and posterns, cranky
-steps that lead up to lofty gabled houses with steep French roofs of
-burnished tin like those of Liége; processions of the Host; altars
-decked with flowers; statues of the Virgin; sabots and blouses; and
-the scarlet of the British linesmen. All these are seen in narrow
-streets and markets that are graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and
-all within forty miles of the Down East Yankee State of Maine. It is
-not far from New England to Old France. There has been no dying out of
-the race among the French Canadians. The American soil has left their
-physical type, religion, language and laws absolutely untouched. They
-herd together in their rambling villages; dance to the fiddle after
-mass on Sundays as gaily as once did their Norman sires; and keep up
-the _fleur de lys_ and the memory of Montcalm. More French than the
-French are the Lower Canada _habitans_. The pulse-beat of the
-Continent finds no echo here." Henry Ward Beecher thought Quebec the
-most curious city he had ever seen, saying, "It is a peak thickly
-populated, a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and at the same time
-smoothed off to hold firmly on its summit the houses and castles,
-although, according to the ordinary laws of nature, they ought to fall
-off, like a burden placed on a camel's back without a fastening. Yet
-the houses and castles hold there as if they were nailed down. At the
-foot of the rock some feet of land have been reclaimed from the river,
-and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Quebec is a dried shred
-of the Middle Ages hung high up near the North Pole, far from the
-beaten paths of the European tourists--a curiosity without parallel
-on this side of the ocean. The locality ought to be scrupulously
-preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried elsewhere. When
-Quebec has taken the pains to go and perch herself away up near
-Hudson's Bay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her
-with new ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and
-tortuous streets that charm all travellers in order to seek conformity
-with the fantastic ideas of comfort in vogue in the nineteenth
-century."
-
-
-THE FORTRESS OF QUEBEC.
-
-Up on the cliff, in 1620, Champlain built the ancient castle of St.
-Louis, which stood on the verge of the rock, where now is the eastern
-end of the Dufferin Terrace, at an elevation of about one hundred and
-eighty feet above the river. This was of timber, afterwards replaced
-by a stone structure used for fort and prison, and burnt in the early
-part of the nineteenth century, the site being now an open square,
-with some relics, on the verge of the cliff. The great Quebec Citadel
-upon the summit of the promontory, three hundred and fifty feet above
-the river, is one of the most formidable of the former systems of
-stone fortifications. It covers forty acres, and has outlying walls,
-batteries and defensive works enclosing the entire ancient city, the
-circuit being nearly three miles. There are batteries guarding the
-water approach, gates on the landward side (some now dismantled), and
-four massive martello towers on the edge of the Plains of Abraham
-above the city, with long subterranean passages leading to them and
-other outlying works. The Quebec rock is a dark slate, with an almost
-perpendicular stratification, and shining quartz crystals found in it
-gave it the name of Cape Diamond. The portion of the works overlooking
-the St. Lawrence is called the Grand Battery, while the surmounting
-pinnacle of the Citadel, containing a huge Armstrong gun, is the
-King's Bastion. While Quebec's magnificent scenery and its tremendous
-rock-crowned fortress remain as they were during the great colonial
-wars, yet the military glory is gone. England long ago withdrew the
-regular garrison, and only a handful of Canadian militia now hold the
-place, and the guns are harmless from age and rust, only two or three
-smaller ones doing the present ceremonious duties. In fact the old
-rock is so given to sliding, that salutes are forbidden, excepting on
-rare occasions, lest the concussion may bring some of the fatal
-rock-slides down upon the people of the Lower Town. There is a little
-bronze gun preserved as a trophy in the centre of the Parade, which
-the British captured at Bunker Hill. Grand as this Citadel is, it no
-longer protects Quebec, for in fact the defense against an enemy is
-provided by the newer modern forts across the river behind Point
-Levis, which command the river approach and cost some $15,000,000 to
-construct.
-
-Yet great has been the conflict around this noted rock fortress in the
-past. The earliest battles were at the old Castle of St. Louis, and
-after the repulse of the New England colonial expeditions sent against
-Quebec in 1711 it was determined to fortify the whole of Cape Diamond,
-and then the Citadel and chief works were built. Two monuments,
-however, record the greatest events in its history. The Wolfe-Montcalm
-monument is the chief, erected just behind the Dufferin Terrace, in a
-little green enclosure known as the "Governor's Garden," recording the
-result of the greatest battle fought in Colonial America, the fateful
-contest in 1759, on the Plains of Abraham, where both commanders fell,
-which changed the sovereignty of Canada from France to England, and
-the crowning victory of the "Seven Years' War," which Parkman says
-"began the history of the United States." This is a plain shaft,
-almost without ornamentation, and bears the names of both Generals.
-The other monument is the little stone set up in the face of the cliff
-on the river-front below the citadel, marking where the American
-General Montgomery fell, in the winter of 1775. He had crossed the St.
-Lawrence on the ice, and in imitation of Wolfe's previous exploit,
-rashly tried to scale the almost perpendicular cliff with a handful of
-troops, but was defeated and slain. Wolfe's successful ascent of the
-bluff in 1759 had been made from the river three miles above Quebec,
-at what is now known as Wolfe's Cove, where the timber ships load. A
-little stream makes a ravine in the bank, and Wolfe and his intrepid
-followers, having floated down from above with the tide, landed and
-climbed through this gorge, the route they took being at present a
-steep road ascending the face of the bluff among the trees, a small
-flag-staff being planted at the top. The Plains of Abraham--so called
-from Abraham Martin, a pilot living there--are now occupied by the
-modern residences of the city and the massive buildings of the Quebec
-Provincial Parliament. There is also a prison, and near it a monument
-marking where Wolfe fell, being the second column erected, the first
-having been carried away piecemeal by relic-hunters. Upon it is the
-inscription: "Here died Wolfe victorious, Sept. 13, 1759." This marks
-the most famous event in the history of the great fortress. Wolfe had
-evidently a premonition. A young midshipman who was in the boat with
-him, as they floated on the river at midnight to the ravine, told
-afterwards how Wolfe, in a low voice, repeated Gray's _Elegy in a
-Country Churchyard_ to the officers about him, including the line his
-own fate was soon to illustrate, "The paths of glory lead but to the
-grave," saying, as the recital ended, "Gentlemen, I would rather have
-written those lines than take Quebec." William Pitt, describing the
-great result of the battle, said, "The horror of the night, the
-precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he, with a handful of men,
-added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly
-terminating life where his fame began--ancient story may be ransacked
-and ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode
-can be found to rank with Wolfe's."
-
-
-QUEBEC RELIGIOUS HOUSES.
-
-Various streets and stairways mount the great Quebec rock in zigzags,
-and there is also an inclined-plane passenger elevator. In the Lower
-Town, the narrow streets display quaint old French houses with
-queer-looking porches and oddly-built steps, high steep roofs, tall
-dormer windows and capacious stone chimneys. The French population
-cluster in the Lower Town and along St. Charles River. Churches and
-religious houses seem distributed everywhere. The great Catholic
-establishments are prominent in the Upper Town, nearly all founded in
-the seventeenth century. The Holy Father at Rome, recognizing the
-exalted position Quebec occupies in the Church, has made its
-Cathedral, like the patriarchal churches of Rome, a Basilica, its
-Archbishop being a Cardinal. It occupies the place of the first church
-built by Champlain, is not very large, but is magnificently decorated
-and contains fine paintings. Within are buried Champlain and
-Frontenac, and the great Bishop Laval de Montmorency. Adjoining is the
-palace of the Cardinal Archbishop, who is the Canadian Primate. Also
-adjoining are the spacious buildings of the Seminary, founded and
-richly endowed by Laval,--one of the wealthiest institutions and most
-extensive landowners of Quebec Province. This is still regarded as the
-controlling power of the Church in Lower Canada, as it has been for
-two centuries. There is also a Cathedral of the Church of England, a
-smaller and plain building, where the war-worn battle-flags of the
-British troops, carried in the Crimea, hang in the chancel, and the
-fine communion service was presented by King George III. Here is also
-the memorial of the early Anglican bishop of Quebec, Jacob Mountain,
-of whom it was said he happened to be in the presence of that king
-when the king expressed doubt as to who should be appointed bishop of
-the new See of Quebec, then just created. Said Dr. Mountain, "If your
-Majesty had faith there would be no difficulty." "How so?" asked the
-king; whereupon Mountain answered, "If you had faith you would say to
-this Mountain, be thou removed into that See, and it would be done."
-It was; Quebec getting a most excellent bishop, who labored over
-thirty years there, dying in 1825. There are also the splendid
-building of Laval University, one of the first educational
-institutions of the Dominion; the Hotel Dieu, and Ursuline Convent
-originally started by Madame de la Peltrie, in the Upper Town.
-
-These establishments all had their origin in the religious enthusiasm
-attending the settlement of Canada, in which France took great pride,
-although Voltaire afterwards derided it as "Fifteen hundred leagues of
-frozen country." From Sillery, where the first Jesuit Mission was
-founded, went out the zealous missionaries and martyrs, who followed
-the Hurons into the depths of the forest, and sought to reclaim the
-Iroquois, as has been well said, "with toil too great to buy the
-kingdoms of this world, but very small as a price for the Kingdom of
-Heaven." From Sillery went the Jesuit Fathers, who explored all
-America, and also Jogues, Brébeuf, Lalemont, and others, to martyrdom
-in founding the primitive Canadian mission church. It was also the
-religious French women as well as the devoted men, who laid so deep
-and strong the pious foundation of Canada. Little do we really know of
-the nun, who in her religious devotion practically buries herself
-alive. Down in the Lower Town, near the Champlain Market, originally
-lived the first colony of Ursuline nuns, who came out with Madame de
-la Peltrie to teach and nurse the Indians. She afterwards left them,
-as already stated, and went to help settle Montreal. Later their
-establishment was removed to the Upper Town, where it now has an
-impressive array of buildings, with about fifty nuns, who educate most
-of the leading Quebec young ladies. The great success of this Order
-was due to its Superioress, Marie Gruyart, known as Mother Marie de
-l'Incarnation, a remarkable woman, who mastered the Huron and
-Algonquin languages, and devoted herself and her nuns to the
-special work of educating Indian girls, being called by Bossuet the
-"St. Theresa of the New World." In the shrines of this convent are
-relics of St. Clement Martyr, and other saints, brought from the Roman
-Catacombs. Its most famous possession is the remains of Montcalm, who
-was carried mortally wounded from the battlefield into the convent to
-die. His skull is preserved in a casket covered with glass, and is
-regarded with the greatest veneration. His body is buried in the
-chapel, and his grave is said to have been dug by a shell which burst
-there during the fierce bombardment preceding his death. This convent
-has had a chequered history, being repeatedly bombarded, and twice
-burnt during attacks on the city, and at times occupied as barracks by
-the troops of both friend and foe. Of late, however, the lives of
-these sisters of St. Ursula have been more tranquil.
-
-  [Illustration: _Montcalm's Headquarters, Quebec_]
-
-The most extensive collection of religious buildings is the Convent
-and Hospital of the Hotel Dieu, in the Upper Town. There are some
-sixty cloistered nuns of this Order, founded in 1639 by Cardinal
-Richelieu's niece, the Duchess d'Aguillon. They care for the sick and
-infirm poor, their hospital accommodating over six hundred. The oldest
-structure dates from 1654, and much of the collection is over two
-centuries old. The most precious relics in their convent are the
-remains of two of the Jesuit martyrs who went out from Sillery,
-Fathers Brébeuf and Lalemont. There is a silver bust of the former,
-and his skull is carefully preserved. Jean de Brébeuf was a Norman of
-noble birth, who came out with Champlain, and he and Lalemont were
-sent on a mission beyond Ontario to the Huron country, establishing
-the mission town of St. Ignace, near Niagara River. They lived sixteen
-years with these Indians, learning their language, and gaining great
-influence over them. The Iroquois from New York attacked and captured
-the town in 1649, taking the missionaries captive and putting them to
-death with frightful tortures. Brébeuf, who frequently had celestial
-visions, always announced his belief that he would die a martyr for
-Christ. The story of his torture is one of the most horrible in the
-colonial wars. He was bound to a stake and scorched from head to foot;
-his lower lip was cut away, and a red-hot iron thrust down his throat.
-They hung a necklace of glowing coals around his neck, which the
-indomitable priest stood heroically; they poured boiling water over
-his head and face in mockery of baptism; cut strips of flesh from his
-limbs, eating them before his eyes, scalped him, cut open his breast
-and drank his blood, then filled his eyes with live coals, and after
-four hours of torture, finally killed him by tearing out his heart,
-which the Indian chief at once devoured. The writer recording this
-terrible ordeal says, "Thus died Jean de Brébeuf, the founder of the
-Huron mission, its truest hero, and its greatest martyr. He came of a
-noble race,--the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls
-of Arundel, but never had the mailed barons of his line confronted a
-fate so appalling, with so prodigious a constancy. To the last he
-refused to flinch, and his death was the astonishment of his
-murderers." Gabriel Lalemont, his colleague, was a delicate young man,
-and was tortured seventeen hours, bearing the torments nobly, and
-though at times faltering, yet he would rally, and with uplifted hands
-offer his sufferings to heaven as a sacrifice. His bones are preserved
-in the Hotel Dieu. The burning of St. Ignace village dispersed the
-Hurons, but years afterwards a remnant was gathered by the Jesuit
-Fathers, and their descendants are at Lorette, up St. Charles River.
-
-From the Ursuline Convent the Champlain Steps lead down the cliff to
-the Champlain Market, having alongside it the ancient little church of
-Notre Dame des Victoires. This is a plain stone church of moderate
-size, built in 1688 as the church of Notre Dame, on the site of
-Champlain's house. The interior, which has had modern renovation,
-displays rich gilding, and the church's interesting history is told by
-two angels hovering over the chancel, each bearing a banner, one
-inscribed "1690" and the other "1711." The fiery Count de Frontenac,
-who was Louis XIV.'s Governor of Quebec, had ravaged the New England
-colonies, and in 1690, shortly after the church was built, Sir William
-Phips, from Massachusetts, retaliated. The Iroquois, who were English
-allies, menaced Montreal, and all the French troops were sent thither.
-Suddenly, in October, Phips and his fleet appeared in the St. Lawrence
-below Quebec. Urgent messages were sent the troops to return, and the
-devout Ursuline nuns prayed for deliverance with such fervor in the
-little church, that Phips was struck with a phase of indecision,
-wasted his time, summoned the town to surrender, a message which the
-bold Frontenac spurned, and then, without making an attack, Phips
-wasted more time, until the French troops did return, so that when the
-demonstration was made it was successfully repulsed, and after
-repeated disasters Phips and his fleet sailed back to New England.
-Great was the rejoicing in Quebec, a thanksgiving procession singing
-Te Deums marched to the little church, and then the Bishop, with an
-elaborate ceremonial, changed its name to Notre Dame de la Victoire.
-Twenty-one years afterwards, in 1711, another British invading force
-came up the river under Sir Hovenden Walker, and again the
-intercession of Notre Dame was implored. The reassuring answer quickly
-came by fog and storm, producing dire disaster to the fleet, eight
-ships being wrecked and many hundreds drowned. Quebec again was saved;
-there was the wildest rejoicing, and in honor of the double triumph
-the church was re-named as Notre Dame des Victoires. An annual
-religious festival is held on the fourth Sunday in October to
-commemorate these miraculous deliverances. But the famous little
-church was not always to escape unscathed. One of the Ursuline nuns
-prophesied that it would ultimately be destroyed by the British, who
-would finally conquer, and when Wolfe's batteries bombarded Quebec in
-1759 it severely suffered. It was repaired, and exists to-day as one
-of the most precious relics in the ancient city, in its oldest
-quarter, adjoining the market-place, and revered with all the
-unquestioning devotion of the _habitan_.
-
-
-THE DUFFERIN TERRACE.
-
-There is a fine outlook from the Dufferin Terrace, high up on the
-cliff above the river, the favorite gathering-place of the townsfolk
-on pleasant afternoons. The St. Lawrence flows placidly, with a narrow
-strip of town far down below at its edge, and a few vessels moored to
-the bank. At one's feet are the Champlain market and the famous little
-church, and a mass of the peaked tin-covered roofs of the diminutive
-French houses crowded in along the contracted street at the base of
-the cliff. High above rises the towering citadel with its rounded
-King's Bastion, the black guns thrusting their muzzles over the
-parapet and the Union Jack floating from a flagstaff at the top.
-Across the river is Point Levis, with piers and railroad terminals
-spread along the bank, and various villages with their imposing
-convents and churches crown the high bluff shore for a long distance
-up and down. Farther back upon the wooded slopes of the hills are the
-great modern built forts which command the river and are the military
-protection of Quebec, their lines of earthworks just discernible among
-the trees. The river sweeps grandly around the projecting point of
-Cape Diamond and the surmounting citadel, passing away to the
-northeast with broadening current, where it receives the St. Charles,
-and beyond is divided by the low projecting point of the green Isle of
-Orleans. The main channel flows to the right behind Point Levis, and
-the other far away to the left with the Falls of Montmorency in the
-distance, and the dark range of Laurentian Mountains for a background
-with the noble summit of Mount Sainte Anne, and the huge promontory of
-Cape Tourmente at the river's edge. Nearer, the Quebec Lower Town
-spreads to a flat point at St. Charles River, ending in the broad
-surface of Princess Louise Basin, containing the shipping. Beyond
-this, a long road extends along the northern river bank, through
-Beauport and down to Montmorency, bordered by little white French
-cottages strung along it like beads upon a thread. Such is the
-landscape of wondrous interest seen from the cliff of Quebec. Across
-the St. Lawrence, elevated one hundred and fifty feet above the river,
-between Quebec and Point Levis is about being constructed a great
-railway bridge with the largest cantilever span in the world.
-
-A ride along the attractive road through Beauport gives an insight
-into the home life of the French Canadian _habitan_. The village
-stretches several miles, a single street bordered on either hand by
-rows of unique cottages, nearly all alike; one-story steep-roofed
-houses of wood or plaster, almost all painted white, and one
-reproducing the other. The first Frenchman who arrived built this sort
-of a house, and all his neighbors and descendants have done likewise.
-They, like him, do it, because their ancestors builded so. The house
-may be larger, or may be of stone, but there is no change in form or
-feature. The centre doorway has a room on either hand with windows,
-and a steep roof rises above the single story. The house, regardless
-of the front road, must face north or south. The long, narrow strips
-of farms, some only a few yards wide, and of enormous length, run
-mathematically north and south. It matters not that this highway,
-parallel with the river, runs northeast. That cannot change the
-inexorable rule, and hence all the houses are set at an angle with the
-road, and all the dividing-fence lines are diagonals. The sun-loving
-Gaul taboos shade-trees, and therefore the sun blazes down upon the
-unsheltered house in summer, while the careful housewife, to keep out
-the excessive light, closes all the windows with thick shades made of
-old-fashioned wall-papers. The little triangular space between the
-cottage and the road is usually a brilliant flower-garden. Crosses are
-set up frequently for the encouragement of the faithful, and there
-are imposing churches and ecclesiastical buildings at intervals. Along
-this road ride the French in their queer-looking two-wheeled caléches,
-appearing much like a deep-bowled spoon set on wheels, and in
-elongated buckboard wagons of ancient build, surmounted by the most
-homely and venerable gig-tops. These French cottages are more
-picturesque than their vehicles.
-
-The French Canadian _habitan_, the _cultivateur_, and peasant of
-Quebec province, is about the same to-day as he was two or three
-centuries ago. The Lower Canada village reproduces the French hamlet
-of the time of Louis XIV., and the inhabitants show the same zealous
-and absorbing religious devotion as when the French first peopled the
-St. Lawrence shores. Within the cottage, hung above the _habitan's_
-modest bed, is the black wooden cross that is to be the first thing
-greeting the waking eyes in the morning, as it has been the last
-object seen at night. Below it is the sprig of palm in a vase, with
-the little bonitier of holy water, and alongside is placed the
-calendar of religious events in the parish. The palm sprig is annually
-renewed on Palm Sunday, the old sprig being then carefully burnt.
-Great is its power in warding off lightning strokes and exorcising the
-evil spirits. The central object around which every village clusters
-is always the church, with its high walls, sloping roof, and tall and
-shining tin-clad spire. The curé is the village autocrat; the legal
-and medical adviser, the family counsellor, and usually the political
-leader of his flock. He blesses all the houses when they are built,
-and as soon as the walls are up a bunch of palm is attached to the
-gable or the chimney, a gun being fired to mark the event. When the
-_Angelus_ tolls all stop work, wherever they are, and say the short
-prayer in devout attitude. Before beginning or completing any task the
-reverent _habitans_ always piously cross themselves. They do this also
-in passing churches, or the many crosses and statues set up along the
-roads and in the villages. They are temperate, industrious and
-thrifty, live simply, eat the plainest food, are abundantly content
-with their lot, and usually raise large families. In fact, there is a
-bounty given, by act of the Quebec Provincial Legislature, of one
-hundred acres of land to parents having more than twelve living
-children. It is not infrequent to find twenty-five or thirty or more
-children in a single family. In personal appearance the _habitan_ is
-generally of small or medium size, with sparkling brown eyes, dark
-complexion, a placid face and well-knit frame. He has strong endurance
-and capacity for work, but usually not much education, the prayer-book
-furnishing most of the family reading. The Church encourages early
-marriages, and domestic fecundity is honored as a special gift from
-Heaven. The pious veneration, like the creed of this simple-minded
-people, is the same to-day as it was in the seventeenth century.
-Their faith is fervent and their belief complete. They typify the
-beautiful idea the late Cardinal Newman exemplified in his exquisite
-poem:
-
-     "Lead, kindly Light, amid the encircling gloom,
-         Lead thou me on;
-     The night is dark, and I am far from home;
-         Lead thou me on;
-     Keep thou my feet; I do not ask to see
-         The distant scene; one step enough for me.
-
-     "I was not ever thus, nor prayed that thou
-         Shouldst lead me on;
-     I loved to choose and see my path; but now
-         Lead thou me on!
-     I loved the garish day, and spite of fears
-     Pride ruled my will. Remember not past years!
-
-     "So long thy power hast blest me, sure it still
-         Will lead me on
-     O'er moor and fen, o'er crag and torrent, till
-         The night is gone,
-     And with the morn those angel faces smile,
-     Which I have loved long since and lost awhile!"
-
-
-LA BONNE SAINTE ANNE.
-
-This road leads to the Montmorency River, a vigorous stream flowing
-out of Snow Lake, ninety miles northward, down to the St. Lawrence.
-For a mile or so above the latter river it has worn a series of steps
-in the limestone rocks, making attractive rapids, and the waters
-finally pitch over a nearly perpendicular precipice, almost at the
-verge of the St. Lawrence, falling two hundred and fifty feet in a
-magnificent cataract, the dark amber torrent brilliantly foaming, and
-making vast amounts of spray. In winter there is formed a cone of ice
-in front of these falls, sometimes two hundred feet high. The cataract
-goes down into a deep gorge, worn back through the rocks, some
-distance from the St. Lawrence bank, and protruding cliffs in the face
-of the fall make portions of the water, when part way down, dart out
-in huge masses of foam and spray. A large sawmill below gets its power
-from this cataract, and it also provides the electric lighting service
-for Quebec. Farther down the north shore of the St. Lawrence, through
-more quaint villages--L'Ange Gardien and Chateau Richer--the road
-leads along breezy hills and pleasant vales in the Coté de Beaupré, to
-the most renowned shrine of all Canada, about twenty miles below
-Quebec, the Church of "La Bonne Sainte Anne de Beaupré." This famous
-old church is the special shrine of the _habitan_, the objective point
-of many pilgrim parties from Canada and New England, where there now
-is a large population of French Canadians, as many as a hundred and
-fifty thousand pilgrims coming in a single year, and it is the most
-venerated spot in all Lower Canada. The Coté de Beaupré, the northern
-St. Lawrence shore below Montmorency, is an appanage of the Seminary
-of Quebec. The little Sainte Anne's river comes down from the slopes
-of Sainte Anne's Mountain among the Laurentides, and after dashing
-over the steep and attractive cataract of Sainte Anne, flows out to
-the St. Lawrence. Upon the level and picturesque intervale of this
-stream is a primitive French village, whose people get support partly
-by making bricks for Quebec, but mainly through the entertainment of
-the army of pilgrims coming to the miraculous shrine of "La Bonne
-Sainte Anne." The village spreads mostly along a narrow street filled
-with inns and lodging-houses which are crowded during the pilgrimage
-season from June till October, culminating on Sainte Anne's festival
-day, July 26th. To the eastward of the village is the beautiful
-church, not long ago built from the pious doles of the faithful, a
-massive and elaborate granite building. Just above it, upon the bank,
-is the original little church of Sainte Anne, which is so highly
-venerated, and wherein the sacred relics of the saint are carefully
-kept in a crystal globe, and are exhibited at morning mass, when their
-contemplation by the pilgrims, combined with faith, works miraculous
-cures. The old church of 1658, threatening to fall, was taken down in
-1878, and rebuilt with the same materials on the original plan. It is
-quaintly furnished in the French-Canadian style of the seventeenth
-century, and one of its features is the mass of abandoned crutches and
-canes piled along the cornices and in the sacristy, left by the
-cripples who have departed relieved or healed.
-
-This is probably the holiest ground in Canada, consecrated by nearly
-three centuries of the most fervent devotion of the ever-faithful
-_habitans_. Just below Sainte Anne is the companion village of St.
-Joachim. Sainte Anne was the mother and St. Joachim the father of the
-Virgin Mary. The tradition is that after Sainte Anne's body had
-reposed quietly for many years at Jerusalem, it was sent to the Bishop
-of Marseilles, and later to Apt, where it was placed in a subterranean
-chapel to guard it from heathen profanation. The church at Apt was
-swept away by the invader, but some seven centuries afterwards the
-Emperor Charlemagne visited the town, and marvellous incidents took
-place, light being seen emanating from the vault accompanied by a
-delicious fragrance, whereupon investigation was made and the long
-lost remains of Sainte Anne recovered. Ever since, her sacred relics
-have been highly venerated in France, and it was natural that the
-early French Canadians should bring their pious devotion into the new
-Province. Various churches were built in her honor, the chief being
-this one at Beaupré, by the devout Governor d'Allebout. With his own
-hands the Governor began the pious work of erecting the church, and as
-an encouragement, the Cathedral Chapter in France sent to the new
-shrine a relic of Sainte Anne--a portion of a finger-bone--together
-with a reliquary of silver, a lamp, and some paintings, all being
-preserved in this church. The legend of the building is, that upon its
-site a beautiful little child of the village was thrice favored with
-Heavenly visions. Upon the third appearance, the Virgin commanded the
-child that she should tell her people to build a church there in honor
-of her saintly mother. Thus was the location chosen, and while the
-foundation was being laid, a _habitan_ of the Coté de Beaupré, one
-Guimont, sorely afflicted with rheumatism, came there with great
-difficulty, and filled with pain, to try and lay three stones in the
-wall, presumably in honor of the Virgin, her father and mother. With
-much labor and suffering he performed the task, but instantly it was
-completed he became miraculously cured. This began a long series of
-miracles, their fame spreading, so that devotion to Sainte Anne became
-a distinguishing feature of French-Canadian Catholicity.
-
-The great Bishop Laval de Montmorency made Sainte Anne's day a feast
-of obligation. During the French régime, vessels ascending the St.
-Lawrence always saluted when passing the shrine, in grateful
-thanksgiving that their prayers to Sainte Anne had been answered by
-deliverance from the perils of the sea. Pilgrims flocked thither, and
-many cures were wrought by pious veneration of the relics. As religion
-spread among the Indians, sometimes the adjacent shore would be
-covered by the wigwams of the converts who had come in their canoes
-from remote regions, and the more fervent of them would crawl on their
-knees from the river bank to the altar. To-day the pilgrims bring
-their offerings and make their vows, pleading for relief, many
-crossing the ocean from France, and it is said of these votaries at
-the shrine that they now come, "not in paint and feathers, but in
-cloth and millinery, and not in canoes, but in steamboats." It is
-noteworthy that in all the vicissitudes of war repeatedly waged around
-the famous place, the village being sacked and burned, the church was
-always preserved. When the British under Wolfe, prior to capturing
-Quebec in 1759, attacked Beaupré, they three times, tradition says,
-set fire to the church, but by the special intervention of Sainte Anne
-it escaped unscathed. Upon Sainte Anne's festival day, in 1891, many
-thousand pilgrims poured into the village, and Cardinal Archbishop
-Taschereau came down from Quebec, bringing another precious relic of
-Sainte Anne--a complete finger-joint--which he had obtained for the
-shrine from Carcassonne, in Languedoc, France. The Holy Father had
-raised the new church to the dignity of a Basilica, and two years
-previously he also sent from Rome a massive golden crown, set with
-precious stones, and valued at $56,000. This crown was worn by the
-rich statue of Sainte Anne, holding the infant Virgin in her arms,
-which stands before the chancel. There was an elaborate ceremonial, a
-large number of priests participating, and a solemn procession
-translated the precious relic to the church, where, after the
-services, it was venerated, the reliquary containing it being
-presented to the lips of each communicant kneeling in the sanctuary.
-Several miraculous cures were announced, but it is recorded that most
-of the cripples taken into the church had to be carried out again
-unrelieved. Around this sacred shrine crystallizes in the highest
-degree the pious veneration of the faithful French-Canadian
-_habitans_.
-
-
-THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.
-
-The river St. Lawrence below Quebec is a mighty arm of the sea,
-stretching in from the Atlantic, through a vast valley enclosed by the
-primeval forest. The northern shore shows the domination of
-ruggedness, for here begins the mountain wall of the Laurentides,
-stretching far away northeastward down the river towards Labrador. The
-southern shore is less forbidding, having wide fertile slopes rising
-to a background of wooded hills. Along the river bank is a sparsely
-scattered strip of humanity, which is likened to a rosary, having the
-primitive farmhouses for beads, and at every few miles a tall,
-cross-crowned church spire. Set in between the river banks, just below
-Quebec, is the broad and fertile Isle of Orleans, but beyond this the
-St. Lawrence is six miles wide, and steadily broadens, attaining
-twenty-four miles width at Tadousac, the mouth of the Saguenay, and
-thirty-five width at Metis, one hundred and fifty miles below Quebec.
-The Isle of Orleans is twenty miles long and very fertile, largely
-supplying the markets of Quebec. To the northward Mount Sainte Anne,
-the guardian of the famous shrine, rises twenty-seven hundred feet.
-Jacques Cartier so liked the grapes grown on the island that he called
-it the Isle of Bacchus, but the king, Francis I., would not have it
-so, and named it after his son, the Duke of Orleans. Here were
-massacred the Hurons by the Iroquois, who captured from them the great
-cross of Argentenay, carrying it off to their stronghold, on Onondaga
-Lake, New York, in 1661. On the northern shore of the island is the
-old stone church of St. Laurent and farther along that of St. Pierre,
-the meadows hereabout providing good shooting. The faithful at St.
-Laurent were said to have been long the envied possessors of a piece
-of the arm-bone of the Apostle Paul, a most precious relic, which was
-clandestinely seized and taken over to St. Pierre Church. This made a
-great commotion, and some of the young men of St. Laurent made an
-expedition at night, entered the church, recaptured the relic, and
-brought it back with some other articles, restoring it to the original
-shrine. A controversy between the villagers followed, growing so
-fierce that an outbreak was threatened, and the Archbishop at Quebec
-had to intervene to keep the peace. He ordered each church to restore
-the other its relics, which was done with solemn ceremony, processions
-marching along the road between the villages, and making the exchange
-midway, a large black cross since marking the spot.
-
-The great promontory of the Laurentides, Cape Tourmente, stretches to
-the river, with the dark mass of ancient mountains spreading beyond in
-magnificent array, the cliffs rising high above the water, firs
-clinging to their sides and crowning their worn and rounded summits.
-On top of Tourmente the Seminarians have erected a huge cross, seen
-from afar, with a little chapel alongside. The old Canadian traveller,
-Charlevoix, said Cape Tourmente was probably so-called "because he
-that gave it this name suffered here by a gust of wind."
-
-     "At length they spy huge Tourmente, sullen-browed,
-     Bathe his bald forehead in a passing cloud;
-     The Titan of the lofty capes that gleam
-     In long succession down the mighty stream."
-
-Here are Grosse Isle, the quarantine station for the river, and the
-Isle aux Coudres--Hazel Tree Island,--behind which a break in the
-Laurentides makes a pleasant nook, the Bay of St. Paul, having little
-villages named after the saints all about. Below, the mountain range
-rises into the great Mount Eboulements, twenty-five hundred feet high,
-its sides scarred by landslides brought down by various earthquakes,
-which were once so frequent that the Indians called the region
-Cuscatlan, meaning "the land that swings like a hammock." The name of
-this mountain means the "falling, shaking, crumbling mountain," but
-it is nevertheless now noted as the haughtiest headland of the
-Laurentides. This whole region has been a great sufferer from volcanic
-disturbances, the chief being in 1663, when the historian says "the
-St. Lawrence ran white as milk as far down as Tadousac; ranges of
-hills were thrown down into the river or were swallowed up in the
-plains; earthquakes shattered the houses and shook the trees until the
-Indians said that the forests were drunk; vast fissures opened in the
-ground and the courses of streams were changed. Meteors, fiery-winged
-serpents and ghostly spectres were seen in the air; roarings and
-mysterious voices sounded on every side, and the confessionals of all
-the churches were crowded with penitents awaiting the end of the
-world." Below this frowning mountain, the little Murray River flows
-in, making a deep bay and sandy beaches, and far back, under the
-shadows of the bordering hills, are the parish church and the French
-village of St. Agnes up the river. This place is Murray Bay, a
-favorite watering-place, known as Malbaie among the French, the hotels
-and wide one-story cottages of this Canadian Newport being scattered
-in the ravine and on the hill-slopes. When Champlain first entered
-this bay in 1608 he named it Malle Baie, explaining that this was
-because of "the tide that runs there marvellously." It is said that an
-attempt was once made to settle Murray Bay with Scotch emigrants, but
-the families who were sent out soon succumbed to the overwhelming
-influence of the surroundings, and their descendants, while having
-unmistakable Scottish names, have adopted the French language and
-customs. Over on the southern bank, thirty miles away, for the river
-is now very wide, is another favorite resort, Riviere du Loup, with
-the adjacent village of Kamouraska, the great church of St. Louis and
-a large convent being prominent in the latter.
-
-Riviere du Loup is the best developed of the watering-places of the
-Lower St. Lawrence. The shore is gentle, and in sharp contrast with
-the rugged northern bank. The village spreads on a broad plateau,
-formed by the inflowing stream, there being hotels and boarding-houses
-scattered about, a tall-spired church back of the town, and a long
-wharf stretching out in front. To the eastward the sloping shore
-extends far away to Cacouna, eight miles below, another favorite
-resort also sentinelled by its church. The Riviere du Loup (Wolf
-River) naming this place flows out of the distant southern mountains
-to the St. Lawrence, and is said to have been so called from the
-droves of seals,--called by the French "loups-marines"--formerly
-frequenting the shoals off its mouth. Just back of the village the
-stream plunges down a waterfall eighty feet high. Cacouna is the most
-fashionable resort of the southern shore, and a place of comparatively
-recent growth, its semicircular bay with a good beach and the cool
-summer airs being the attractions. In front and connected by a low
-isthmus is a large peninsula of rounded granite rock, shaped much like
-a turtle-back and rising four hundred feet. From this came the Indian
-name, Cacouna, or the turtle.
-
-
-THE GRAND AND GLOOMY SAGUENAY.
-
-Far over to the northward, across the broad river, is ancient
-Tadousac, enclosed by the guarding mountains at the entrance to the
-Saguenay. The harbor and landing are within a small rounded bay,
-having the Salmon Hatching House of the Dominion alongside the wharf,
-a cascade pouring down the hillside behind, and a little white inn
-prettily perched above on a shelf of rock. The village spreads over
-irregular terraces, encircling three of these little rounded bays,
-beyond which the narrow Saguenay chasm goes off westward through the
-mountains into a savage wilderness. This place has been a trading-post
-with the Indians for over three centuries, and the ancient buildings
-of the Hudson Bay Company testify to the traffic in furs, once so
-good, which has become almost obsolete. It was visited by Cartier in
-1535, and afterwards was established as one of the earliest missions
-of the Jesuits, who came here in 1599 and raised the cross among the
-Nasquapees of the Saguenay--the "upright men," as they called
-themselves,--and the Montaignais, both then powerful tribes, which
-have since entirely disappeared from this region, having withdrawn to
-its upper waters, around and beyond Lake St. John. The old chapel,
-replacing the original Jesuit church--said to have been the first
-erected in North America--stands down by the waterside, a diminutive,
-peak-roofed, one-story building, kept as a memorial of the past, for
-the people now worship in a fine new stone church farther up the
-rounded hill-slope. These knoll-like rounded hills or mamelons named
-the place, for they are numerous, and Tadousac, literally a "nipple,"
-is the Indian word for them. The most valued possession of the church
-is a figure of the child Jesus, originally sent to the mission by King
-Louis XIV. This is the oldest settlement of the Lower St. Lawrence.
-
-The stern and gloomy Saguenay, the largest tributary of the Lower St.
-Lawrence, is one of the most remarkable rivers in the world. Its main
-portion is a tremendous chasm cleft in a nearly straight line for
-sixty miles in the Laurentian Mountains, through an almost unsettled
-wilderness. These Laurentides make the northern shore of the St.
-Lawrence for hundreds of miles below Quebec, rising into higher peaks
-and ridges in the interior, and being the most ancient part of
-America, the geologists telling us the waves of the Silurian Sea
-washed against this range when only two small islands represented the
-rest of the continent. Through this vast chasm the Saguenay brings
-down the waters of Lake St. John and its many tributaries, some of
-them rising in the remote north, almost up to Hudson Bay. This lower
-portion of the river goes through an almost uninhabitable desert of
-gloomy mountains, the tillable land being in the basin of the Upper
-Saguenay and Lake St. John, the people of that valley living there in
-almost complete isolation. Logs and huckleberries are the crops
-produced on this savage river, the only things the sparse population
-can depend upon for a living, and the fine blueberries bring them the
-scant doles of ready money they ever see. The Saguenay's inky waters
-have the smell of brine as they break in froth upon the shore, and
-then the air-bubbles show the real color to be that of brandy. The
-upper tributaries give this color as they flow out of forests of
-spruce and hemlock and swamps filled with mosses and highly colored
-roots and vegetable matter. Almost all the lakes and rivers of the
-vast wilderness north of the St. Lawrence present a similar
-appearance, their rapids and waterfalls, seen under the sunshine,
-seeming like sheets of liquid amber.
-
-The vast accumulations of waters gathered from the heart of the
-Laurentides by the tributaries of Lake St. John flow down the rapids
-below the lake in a stream rivalling those of Niagara. Thus the
-Saguenay comes into being in the form of lusty twins--the Grand
-Discharge and the Little Discharge--deep and narrow river channels
-worn in the rocks. For some miles they run separately through rapids
-and pools, finally joining at the foot of Alma Island, where begin
-the Gervais Rapids, four miles long. The Grand Discharge is a
-beautiful stream of rapids, the rippling and roaring currents flowing
-through a maze of islands, while the Little Discharge is a condensed
-stream, so powerful and unruly that it actually destroys the logs in
-its boisterous cataracts, the government having made a "Slide," down
-which the timber is run past the dangerous places. After passing
-Gervais Rapids the Saguenay has a quiet reach of fifteen miles to the
-Grand Ramous, the most furious cascade of all, and then a few more
-miles of rapids and falls bring it to Chicoutimi, ending its wild
-career where it meets the tide above Ha Ha Bay. The first bold
-Frenchmen who ventured up through the stupendous and forbidding chasm
-of the Lower Saguenay gave this bay its name, to show their delight at
-having finally emerged from the gloomy region. At Ha Ha Bay the tide
-often rises twenty-one feet, and below, the river forces its passage
-with a broad channel through almost perpendicular cliffs out to the
-St. Lawrence. Its great depth is noteworthy, showing what a fearful
-chasm has been split open, there being in many places a mile to a mile
-and a half depth, while the channel throughout averages eight hundred
-feet depth. For most of the distance the river is a mile or more wide.
-The original name given the river by the Montaignais was Chicoutimi,
-or the "deep water," now given the village below the foot of the
-rapids. The present name is a corruption of the Indian word
-Saggishsékuss, meaning "a strait with precipitous banks." The sad
-sublimity of the impressive chasm culminates at Eternity Bay, where on
-either hand rise in stately grandeur to sixteen hundred feet elevation
-above the water Cape Trinity, with its three summits, and Cape
-Eternity. Ten miles above is Le Tableau, a cliff one thousand feet
-high, its vast smooth front like an artist's canvas.
-
-This sombre river, whose bed is much lower than that of the St.
-Lawrence, is frozen for almost its whole course during half the year,
-and snow lies on its bordering mountains until June. It makes a
-saddening impression upon most visitors. Bayard Taylor compared the
-Saguenay chasm to the Dead Sea and Jordan Valley, describing
-everything as "hard, naked, stern, silent; dark gray cliffs of
-granitic gneiss rise from the pitch-black water; firs of gloomy green
-are rooted in their crevices and fringe their summits; loftier ranges
-of a dull indigo hue show themselves in the background, and over all
-bends a pale, cold, northern sky." Another traveller calls it "a cold,
-savage, inhuman river, fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron;" and
-"Nature's sarcophagus," compared to which, "the Dead Sea is blooming;"
-and so solitary, dreary and monotonous that it "seems to want
-painting, blowing up or draining--anything, in short, to alter its
-morose, quiet, eternal awe."
-
-
-EXPLORING THE SAGUENAY CHASM.
-
-Ha Ha Bay, where the exploring Frenchmen found such relief for their
-oppressed feelings, is a long strait thrust through the mountains
-southwest from the Saguenay for several miles, broadening at the head
-into an oval bay, practically a basin among the crags, with two or
-three French villages around it, named after various saints. The
-modest one-story huts of the _habitans_ fringe the lower slopes near
-the water's edge along the valleys of several small streams, each
-cluster having its church with the tall spire. The basin is two or
-three miles across, enclosed by bold cliffs and rounded hills, the
-wide beaches of sand and pebble showing the great rise and fall of the
-tide. There is a sawmill or two, and lumber and huckleberries are the
-products of the district. Chicoutimi village is above the chasm, at a
-point where the intervale broadens, the savage mountains retiring,
-leaving a space for gentle tree-clad slopes and cultivated fields.
-Standing high on the western bank are the magnificent Cathedral, the
-Seminary, a Sailors' Hospital, and the Convent of the Good Shepherd,
-and not far away a tributary stream pours fifty feet down the
-Chicoutimi Falls in a rushing cascade of foam. There are extensive
-sawmills, and timber ships come in the summer for cargoes for Europe,
-and the place has railway connections with Lake St. John and thence
-southward to Quebec. There is a population of about three thousand.
-The universal little one-story, peak-roofed, whitewashed French
-cottages abound, some having a casing of squared pieces of birch-bark
-to protect them from the weather, making them look much like stone
-houses, and peeping inside it is found that the inhabitants usually
-utilize their old newspapers for wall-paper.
-
-From Chicoutimi down to Tadousac the region of the Saguenay chasm is
-practically without habitation. There are two or three small villages,
-chiefly abodes of timber-cutters, but it is otherwise uninhabited; nor
-do the precipitous cliffs usually leave any place near the river for a
-dwelling to be put. As the visitor goes along on the steamboat it is a
-steady and monotonous panorama of dark, dreary, round-topped crags,
-with stunted firs sparsely clinging to their sides and tops where
-crevices will let them, while the faces of the cliffs are white, gray,
-brown and black, as their granites change in color. A few frothy but
-attenuated cascades pour down narrow fissures. The scene, while
-sublime, is forbidding, and soon becomes so monotonous as to be
-tiresome. This gaunt and savage landscape culminates in Eternity Bay.
-Ponderous buttresses here guard the narrow gulf on the southern shore,
-formed by the outflow of a little river. The western portal, Cape
-Trinity, as the steamboat approaches from above, appears as a series
-of huge steps, each five hundred feet high, and the faithful
-missionaries have climbed up and placed a tall white statue of the
-Virgin on one of the steps, about seven hundred feet above the river,
-and a large cross on the next higher step, both being seen from afar.
-Passing around into the bay, the gaunt eastern face of this enormous
-promontory is found to be a perpendicular wall of the rawest granite,
-standing sixteen hundred feet straight up from the water. At the top
-it grandly rises on the bay side into three huge crown-like domes,
-which, upon being seen by the original French explorers when they came
-up the river, made them appropriately name it the Trinity. This is one
-of the most awe-inspiring promontories human eyes ever beheld, as it
-rises sheer out of water over half a mile deep. Across the narrow bay,
-the eastern portal, Cape Eternity, similarly rises in solemn grandeur,
-with solid unbroken sides and a wooded top fully as high. The entire
-Saguenay River is of much the same character, repeating these crags
-and promontories in myriad forms. While not always as high, yet the
-enclosing mountains elsewhere are almost as impressive and fully as
-dismal. The steamboat, aided by the swift tide, moves rapidly through
-the deep canyon, one rounded peak and long ridge being much like the
-others, with the same monotonous dreariness everywhere, and every rift
-disclosing only more distant sombre mountains. The chasm throughout
-its length has no beacons for navigation, the shores being so steep
-and the waters so deep they are unnecessary. A sense of relief is
-felt when the open waters at Tadousac and the St. Lawrence are
-reached, for the journey makes everyone feel much like a writer in the
-London _Times_, who said of it: "Unlike Niagara and all other of God's
-great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or solitude here.
-Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitude like
-this."
-
-
-THE ANGLING GROUNDS OF LOWER CANADA.
-
-Quebec province, on the Lower St. Lawrence, for hundreds of miles
-north and east of the river is filled with myriads of lakes and
-streams that are the haunts of the hunter and angler, and the
-Government gets considerable revenue from the fishery rentals. As far
-away as five hundred miles from Quebec, up in Labrador, is the
-Natashquin River, and eight hundred miles down the St. Lawrence is the
-Little Esquimau, these being the most distant fishery grounds. Among
-the noted fishing streams are the grand Cascapedia, the Metapedia, the
-Upsalquitch, the Patapedia, the Quatawamkedgewick (usually called, for
-short, the "Tom Kedgewick"), and the Restigouche, on the southern side
-of the Lower St. Lawrence, their waters being described as flowing out
-to "the undulating and voluptuous Bay of Chaleurs, full of long folds,
-of languishing contours, which the wind caresses with fan-like breath,
-and whose softened shores receive the flooding of the waves without a
-murmur." Around the great Lake St. John there is also a maze of lakes
-and fishery streams. The most noted Canadian fishery organization is
-the "Restigouche Salmon Club," having its club-house on the
-Restigouche River, at its junction with the Metapedia, and controlling
-a large territory. The guides in this region are usually Micmac
-Indians, who have been described on account of their energy as the
-"Scotch-Irish Indians." This tribe originally inhabited the whole of
-Lower Canada south of the St. Lawrence, being found there by Cartier,
-and the French named them the Sourequois or "Salt-Water Indians,"
-because they lived on the seacoast. They were staunch allies of the
-French, who converted them to Christianity from being sun-worshippers.
-They have a reservation near Campbellton, on the Restigouche, and a
-populous village surrounding a Catholic church. There are now about
-seven thousand of them, all told, throughout the provinces. Glooscap
-was the mythical chief of the Micmacs, whose power and genius were
-shown throughout all the region from New England to Gaspé. He was of
-unknown origin, and invincible, and he conquered the "great Beaver,
-feared by beasts and men," on the river Kennebecasis, near St. John.
-Glooscap's favorite home and beaver-pond was the Basin of Minas, in
-Nova Scotia, where afterwards dwelt Longfellow's Evangeline. Micmac
-traditions describe him as the "envoy of the Great Spirit," who lived
-above in a great wigwam, and was always attended by an aged dame and
-a beautiful youth. He had the form and habits of humanity, and taught
-his tribe how to hunt and fish, to build wigwams and canoes, and to
-heal diseases. He controlled the elements and overthrew all enemies of
-his people; but the tradition adds that on the approach of the
-English, the great Glooscap, "finding that the ways of beasts and men
-waxed evil," turned his huge hunting-dogs into stone, and his huntsmen
-into restless and wailing loons, and then he vanished.
-
-The route to the angling waters of the great Lake St. John is by
-railway northward from Quebec. It goes up the valley of St. Charles
-River, past Lorette, where beautiful cascades turn the mill-wheels.
-Here are gathered the scanty halfbreed remnant of the Hurons, once the
-most powerful and ferocious tribe in Canada, who drove out the
-Iroquois and compelled their migration down to New York State. These
-Indians are said to have been Wyandots, but when the French saw them,
-with their hair rising in bristling ridges above their painted
-foreheads, the astonished beholders exclaimed, "Quelles hures!" (what
-boars!) and hence the name of Huron came to them. The railroad goes
-for two hundred miles past lakes and streams, and through the dense
-forests of these remote Laurentian mountains, until it finally comes
-out on the lake shore at the ancient mission town of "Our Lady of
-Roberval," now become, through the popularity of the district, a
-modern watering-place. This great Lake St. John, so much admired by
-the Canadian and American anglers, was called by the Indians the
-Picouagomi, or "Flat Lake," and it is in a region shaped much like a
-saucer, lying in a hollow, with hills rising up into mountains in the
-background all around. The lake is thirty miles long and about
-twenty-five miles across, having no less than nineteen large rivers,
-besides smaller ones flowing into it from the surrounding mountains,
-the vast accumulation of waters being carried off by the Saguenay. The
-immense flow of some of these rivers may be realized when it is known
-that the Mistassini, coming down from the northward, is three hundred
-miles long, and the Peribonka four hundred miles long, while the
-Ouiatchouan from the south, just before reaching the lake, dashes down
-a grand cascade, two hundred and eighty feet high, making an elongated
-sheet of perfectly white foam.
-
-Until the middle of the nineteenth century, this wonderful lake and
-its immense tributaries were scarcely known to white men, yet upon its
-shores stood Notre Dame de Roberval and St. Louis Chambord, two of the
-oldest Jesuit Indian missions in America. For more than two centuries,
-until the angler and lumberman began going to this remote wilderness,
-it was a buried paradise in the distant woods, without inhabitants,
-excepting a few Montaignais and their priests, and a scattered post or
-two of the Hudson Bay Company, whose occasional expeditions over to
-Quebec for supplies were the only communication with the outer world.
-The solid graystone church and convent stand in bold relief among the
-neat little white French cottages at Roberval, there are an immense
-sawmill and a modern hotel, while in front is the grand sweep of the
-lake, like a vast inland sea, its opposite shore almost beyond vision,
-excepting where a far-away mountain spur may loom just above the
-horizon. Here lives the famous ouananiche of the salmon family, called
-"land-locked," because it is believed he is unable to get out to other
-waters. He is a gamey and magnificent fish, with dark-blue back and
-silvery sides, mottled with olive spots, thus literally clothed in
-purple and fine silver. He has enormous strength, making him the
-champion finny warrior of the Canadian waters. The chief fishery
-ground for him is in the swirling rapids of the Grand Discharge. The
-native Montaignais, or "mountaineer" Indian of this region, is a most
-expert angler, seducing the royal fish with an inartistic lump of fat
-pork on the end of a line from his frail canoe among the rapids, and
-hooking the game more effectively than the costliest rod and reel in
-the hands of a "tenderfoot." These dusky, consumptive-looking,
-copper-colored Indians spend the winters in the unexplored wilds of
-the Mistassini, and wander through all the wilderness as far as Hudson
-Bay. When the snows are gone, they bring in the pelts of the beaver,
-otter, fox and bear, to trade at the Company posts, and living in
-rude birch-bark huts on the bank of the lake, spend the summer in
-fishing, and pick up a few dollars as boatmen and guides.
-
-
-THE ST. LAWRENCE ESTUARY.
-
-Below the mouth of the Saguenay, the St. Lawrence stretches four
-hundred miles to the ocean, its broad estuary constantly growing
-wider. On the southern shore, below Cacouna, there is another resort
-at a little river's mouth, known as Trois Pistoles. It is related that
-in the olden time a traveller was ferried across this little river,
-the fisherman doing the service charging him three pistoles (ten franc
-pieces), equalling about six dollars. The traveller was astonished at
-the charge, and asked him the name of the river. "It has no name," was
-the reply, "it will be baptized at a later day." "Then," said the
-traveller, anxious to get the worth of his money, "I baptize it Three
-Pistoles," a name that has continued ever since. This diminutive
-village seems rather in luck, for unlike most of the others, it has
-two churches, each with a tall spire. The Lower St. Lawrence shores
-maintain communication across the wide estuary by canoe ferries,
-established at various places. A stout canoe, twenty feet or more
-long, and having a crew of seven men, usually makes the passage. The
-boat is built with broad, flat keel, shod with iron, moving easily
-over the ice which for half the year closes the river, not breaking up
-until late in the spring, and sometimes obstructing the outlet
-through the Strait of Belle Isle until July. Farther down the southern
-shore, below Trois Pistoles, is Rimouski, a much larger place,
-described as the metropolis of the Lower St. Lawrence, and the outlet
-of the region of the Metapedia. This town has a Bishop and a
-Cathedral. Beyond are Father Point and Metis, and the land then
-extends past Cape Chatte into the wilderness of Gaspé. When Jacques
-Cartier first entered the river in 1534, he landed at Gaspé, taking
-possession of the whole country in the name of the King of France, and
-erecting a tall cross adorned with the fleur-de-lys. Very
-appropriately, Gaspé means the "Land's End." They found here the
-Micmac Indians, who were then reputed to be quite intelligent, knowing
-the points of the compass and position of the stars, and having rude
-maps of their country and a knowledge of the cross. Their tradition,
-as told to Cartier's sailors, was that in distant ages a pestilence
-harassed them, when a venerable man landed on their shore and stayed
-the progress of the disease by erecting a cross. This mysterious
-benefactor is supposed to have been a Norseman, or early Spanish
-adventurer. An old Castilian tale is that gold-hunting Spaniards,
-after the discovery by Columbus, sailed along these coasts, and
-finding no precious metals, said in disgust to the Indians, "Aca
-náda," meaning, "there is nothing here." This phrase became fixed in
-the Indian mind, and supposing Cartier's party to be the same people,
-they endeavored to open conversation by repeating the same words, "Aca
-náda! aca náda!" Thus, according to one theory, originated the name of
-Canada, the Frenchmen supposing they were telling the name of the
-country. Another authority is that the literal meaning of the Mohawk
-(Iroquois) word Canada is, "Where they live," or "a village," and as
-it was the word Cartier, on his voyages up the river, most frequently
-heard from the Indians, as applied to the homes of the people, it
-naturally named the country.
-
-The surface of the southern country behind Cape Chatte, and of Gaspé
-(Cape Gaspé being a promontory seven hundred feet high), rises into
-the frowning mountains of Notre Dame, the most lofty in Lower Canada,
-the chief peak elevated four thousand feet. In 1648 a French explorer
-wrote of these stately ranges that "all those who come to New France
-know well enough the mountains of Notre Dame, because the pilots and
-sailors, being arrived at that point of the great river which is
-opposite to these high mountains, baptize, ordinarily for sport, the
-new passengers, if they do not turn aside by some present the
-inundation of this baptism, which is made to flow plentifully on their
-heads." The bold southern shore of the St. Lawrence finally ends
-beyond Cape Gaspé, where its mouth is ninety-six miles wide in the
-headland of Cape Rosier, described by dreading mariners as the
-"Scylla of the St. Lawrence."
-
-The northern shore of the great river, beyond the mouth of the
-Saguenay, is almost uninhabited. There is an occasional fishing-post,
-but it is almost an unknown region, though once there were Jesuit
-missions and trading-places, the Indians having since gone away. The
-iron-bound coast goes off, past Point de Monts, the Egg Islands and
-Anticosti, to the Strait of Belle Isle. This strait is named after a
-barren, treeless and desolate island at its entrance, about nine miles
-long, which has been most ironically named the Belle Isle, but the
-early mariners, nevertheless, called it the Isle of Demons. They did
-this because they heard, when passing, "a great clamor of men's
-voices, confused and inarticulate, such as you hear from a crowd at a
-fair or market-place." This is explained by the almost constant
-grinding of ice-floes in the neighborhood. The Mingan River, a
-beautiful stream where speckled trout are caught, comes down out of
-the northern mountains, opposite Anticosti Island, and is occasionally
-visited by enthusiastic anglers. This is the boundary of Labrador,
-which stretches almost indefinitely beyond, comprising the whole
-northeastern Canadian peninsula, an almost unexplored region of nearly
-three hundred square miles. It is described as a rocky plateau of
-Archćan rocks, highest on the northeast side and to the south, more or
-less wooded, and sloping down to lowlands towards Hudson Bay. It is a
-vast solitude, the rocks split and blasted by frosts, and the shores
-washed by the Atlantic waves, where reindeer, bears, wolves and a few
-Esquimaux wander. Its great scenic attraction is the Grand Falls. To
-the northward of the headwaters of Mingan River is a much larger
-stream, the Grand River, draining a multitude of lakes on the higher
-Labrador table-land, northeastward through Hamilton Inlet into the
-Atlantic. In 1861 a venturesome Scot of the Hudson Bay Company,
-prospecting through the region, first saw this magnificent cataract.
-For thirty years the falls were unvisited, but in 1891 an expedition
-was made to them, and they have been since again visited. The cataract
-is described as a magnificent spectacle, the river with full flow
-leaping from a rocky platform into a huge chasm, with a roar that can
-be heard twenty miles and an immense column of rainbow-illumined
-spray. The plunge is made after descending rapids for eight hundred
-feet, and is over a precipice two hundred feet wide, the fall being
-three hundred and sixteen feet. The water tumbles into a canyon five
-hundred feet deep and extending between high walls of rock for about
-twenty-five miles. The distant Labrador coasts on bay and ocean abound
-in seals and fish, and the adjacent seas are vast producers of codfish
-and herring. There are few visitors, however, excepting the hardy
-"Fishermen," of whom Whittier sings:
-
-     "Hurrah! the seaward breezes
-       Sweep down the bay amain;
-     Heave up, my lads, the anchor!
-       Run up the sail again!
-     Leave to the lubber landsmen
-       The rail-car and the steed;
-     The stars of heaven shall guide us,
-       The breath of heaven shall speed!
-
-     "Now, brothers, for the icebergs
-       Of frozen Labrador,
-     Floating spectral in the moonshine,
-       Along the low, black shore!
-     Where like snow the gannet's feathers
-       On Brador's rocks are shed,
-     And the noisy murr are flying,
-       Like bleak scuds, overhead;
-
-     "Where in mist the rock is hiding,
-       And the sharp reef lurks below,
-     And the white squall smites in summer,
-       And the autumn tempests blow;
-     Where, through gray and rolling vapor,
-       From evening unto morn,
-     A thousand boats are hailing,
-       Horn answering unto horn.
-
-     "Hurrah! for the Red Island,
-       With the white cross on its crown!
-     Hurrah! for Meccatina,
-       And its mountains bare and brown!
-     Where the Caribou's tall antlers
-       O'er the dwarf wood freely toss,
-     And the footstep of the Micmac
-       Has no sound upon the moss.
-
-     "Hurrah! Hurrah!--the west wind
-       Comes freshening down the bay,
-     The rising sails are filling,--
-       Give way, my lads, give way!
-     Leave the coward landsman clinging
-       To the dull earth, like a weed,--
-     The stars of heaven shall guide us,
-       The breath of heaven shall speed!"
-
-
-END OF VOLUME II.
-
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