diff options
Diffstat (limited to '42452-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 42452-0.txt | 11586 |
1 files changed, 11586 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/42452-0.txt b/42452-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4dba33e --- /dev/null +++ b/42452-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11586 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42452 *** + +THE SOUTH AMERICAN SERIES + + + + +URUGUAY + + + + +_BY THE SAME AUTHOR_ + + ARGENTINA, PAST AND PRESENT. + + PORTUGAL: ITS LAND AND PEOPLE. + + MADEIRA OLD AND NEW. + + MODERN ARGENTINA. + + ETC., ETC. + +[Illustration: CATHEDRAL: MONTEVIDEO. +Frontispiece.] + + + + + URUGUAY + + BY + W. H. KOEBEL + + AUTHOR OF + "ARGENTINA, PAST AND PRESENT," "PORTUGAL: ITS LAND AND PEOPLE," + ETC. + + WITH A MAP AND 55 ILLUSTRATIONS + + T. FISHER UNWIN + + LONDON LEIPSIC + + ADELPHI TERRACE INSELSTRASSE 20 + + MCMXI + + + + +(_All rights reserved._) + + + + +INTRODUCTORY NOTE + + +The author has to tender his cordial thanks for the extreme courtesy +and for the invaluable assistance rendered during his stay in the +country by the Uruguayan officials, and by the British Minister +Plenipotentiary, Mr. J. R. Kennedy. + +He is desirous of expressing the obligations under which he has been +placed by Mr. C. E. R. Rowland, British Consul at Montevideo, for +general assistance and information on the seal fisheries; Señor José +H. Figueira, for the description of the aboriginal tribes; Señor Ramos +Montero, for the commercial technicalities of the pastoral industry; +and Mr. V. Hinde, for the paper on the British railways in Uruguay. + +Thanks are due to a number of British residents, both in Montevideo +and the Campo, greater than it is possible to enumerate individually. +The author would more especially acknowledge the courtesy of Messrs. +Stapledon, W. J. Maclean, H. Hall-Hall, C. W. Baine, Temple, R. Booth, +Piria, Adams, R. B. Harwar, L. L. Mercer, Warren, and J. Storm. + +Mr. R. A. Bennett, who accompanied the author for the purpose of +photography, displayed an unremitting zeal that must be gratefully +recognised. He is responsible for much of the information on Mercedes, +the Swiss colony, and the frontier town of Rivera. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + CHAPTER I + + PAGE + + SURVEY 27 + + Geographical situation of the Republic--Boundaries and + area--Uruguay as an historical, commercial, and + financial centre--The respective positions of Uruguay + and Paraguay--Disadvantages of a buffer State--A land + of sunshine and shadow--The history of Uruguay--The + blending of industry and warfare--Vitality of the + nation--Instances of self-sacrifice--A South American + Switzerland--A freedom-loving folk--Deeds of arms and + the undercurrents of commerce--Montevideo in the eyes of + the casual traveller--Factors that make for the progress + of the Banda Oriental--Influence of railway--Coming + cessation of the North American beef shipments-- + Temperament of the Uruguayan--Distinction between + Argentine and Uruguayan politics--The clans of the + Banda Oriental--The birthright of party convictions-- + Education in Uruguay--National points of honour--Liberty + accorded the foreigner--The courtesy of officials--An + incident at the customs-house--Popularity of the + English--A gratifying situation--Satisfactory international + relations--The work of Mr. R. J. Kennedy, the British + Minister Plenipotentiary--Uruguay's pacific foreign + policy--Careful finance--Army and navy--General + progress of the nation. + + CHAPTER II + + HISTORY 37 + + The discovery of Uruguay--Reception by the Indians--Juan + de Solis and his fate--Navigation of the River Plate-- + Serrano and Magellanes--Rivalry between Spaniards and + Portuguese--The first settlement in the Banda Oriental-- + Aggressive tactics of the Indians--Forts destroyed by + them--Colonisation under difficulties--The introduction + of cattle--A prophetic move--Intervention of the + missionaries--Jesuit settlements established--Uruguay's + isolation comes to an end--Influence of the livestock-- + Cattle-raiders--The first Portuguese invasion--Victory + of the Spaniards, assisted by native auxiliaries--Treaties + and their attendant troubles--The indecision of old + Spain--Partial extermination of the Indians--The town + of Colonia as a bone of contention--Introduction of the + first negro slaves into the provinces of the River + Plate--Unrest on the Spanish Main--Moreau, the buccaneer-- + The fate of his expedition--Portuguese invaders expelled + by the Spaniards--A fort is constructed on the present + site of Montevideo. + + CHAPTER III + + HISTORY (_continued_) 48 + + Founding of the city of Montevideo--Its first + inhabitants--Inducement offered to colonists--The early + days of the town--Successful rising of the Indians in + the neighbourhood--Victory of the natives--Montevideo + saved by Jesuit intervention--The Portuguese invade the + northern provinces--The first Governor of Montevideo-- + Treaties and territorial cessions--Dissatisfaction of + Jesuit Indians--Their defeat by combined Spanish and + Portuguese forces--Vicissitudes of Colonia--The danger of + hostile residents--A concentration camp of the old + days--Expulsion of the Jesuits--Some incidents of the + wars with the Portuguese--The foundation of urban + centres--The English occupy themselves with the whaling + industry on the coast--Discouragement of the enterprise + by the King of Spain--A corps of "Blandengues" is + created--The British invasion--Political effects of + the occupation--The War of Independence--Montevideo + as the seat of the Spanish viceroyalty--Commencement + of the agitation for freedom in Uruguay. + + CHAPTER IV + + HISTORY (_continued_) 57 + + The advent of Artigas--First revolutionary movements in + Uruguay--The appointment of leaders--First successes of + the Uruguayans--The germs of future jealousies--Montevideo + besieged by the patriot forces--An incident of the + investment--Spain appeals to Portugal for assistance-- + nvasion of Uruguay by the latter--The Buenos Aires + Government concludes a treaty with the Spanish Viceroy-- + Raising of the siege of Montevideo--Position of Uruguay-- + Discontent of the Orientales--The exodus of the nation-- + Incidents of emigration to the Argentine shore--Montevideo + in Spanish hands--The country overrun by Portuguese--Buenos + Aires effects a treaty with the latter--Resumption of the + campaign against the Spaniards--Dispute between the + Argentine and Uruguayan leaders--Montevideo again besieged-- + Some battle incidents--Artigas reappears on the scene-- + Drastic measures towards an ally--A national Congress + convened--Oriental deputies rebuffed by Buenos Aires-- + Artigas withdraws from the siege of Montevideo--Price set + upon his head--War declared between Uruguay and Buenos + Aires--The Argentine littoral provinces adhere to Artigas-- + Fall of Montevideo. + + CHAPTER V + + HISTORY (_continued_) 69 + + Conclusion of Spanish rule--Situation of the victors-- + Rival claims--Alvear defeats a Uruguayan force-- + Montevideo remains in possession of Buenos Aires--Rural + Uruguay supports Artigas--Alliance of the Argentine + littoral provinces with the Orientales--Some intrigues + and battles--Success of the Uruguayans--Departure from + Montevideo of the Buenos Aires garrison--The Uruguayans + enter into possession of their capital--Some crude methods + of government--Trials of the inhabitants--Growth of + Artigas's power--The Buenos Aires directors undertake + a propitiatory measure--A grim human offering--Attitude + of the Uruguayan Protector--Negotiations and their + failure--The civil progress of Uruguay--Formation of + departments--The Portuguese invade the country once + again--Condition of the inhabitants--Fierce resistance + to the invaders--A campaign against heavy odds--The + Portuguese army enters Montevideo--War continued by the + provinces--Invasion of Brazil by the Oriental forces-- + Crushing defeats suffered by the army of invasion--Final + struggles--The flight of Artigas--Uruguay passes under + Portuguese rule. + + CHAPTER VI + + ARTIGAS 78 + + The human product of a turbulent era--Historical verdicts + disagree--Opinions of Uruguayan and foreign historians-- + High-flown tribute--The cleansing of Artigas's fame-- + Prejudices of some local accounts--Uruguay at the time + of Artigas's birth--Surroundings of his youth--Smuggling + as a profession--Growth of his influence--His name becomes + a household word--Artigas enters the Spanish service--The + corps of Blandengues--Efficiency and promotion--Quarrel + with the Spanish General--Artigas throws in his lot with + the patriot forces--His success as a leader of men--Rank + accorded him--Jealousy between Artigas and the Buenos + Aires generals--Conflicting ambitions--The Portuguese + invasion--Artigas leads the Oriental nation to the + Argentine shore--The encampment at Ayui--Scarcity of + arms and provisions--Battles with the Portuguese--The + subalterns of Artigas--Otorgues and Andresito--Crude + governmental procedure--Arbitrary decrees--The sentiments + of Artigas--His love of honesty--Progress of the war-- + Complications of the campaign--Artigas as Protector--The + encampment of Hervidero--Revolting tales--The exaggeration + of history--Artigas refuses honours--His proclamation-- + Simple life of the Commander--Some contemporary + accounts--The national treasury--Final desperate + struggles against the Portuguese--Rebellion of Ramirez-- + Fierce battles--Extraordinary recuperative power of the + Protector--Final defeat of Artigas--Flight to Paraguay-- + The Protector in retirement. + + CHAPTER VII + + HISTORY (_continued_) 97 + + The Spanish colonies as nations--The first-fruits of + freedom--Uruguay beneath the heel of Portugal--The + advent of a second liberator--Juan Antonio Lavalleja-- + The forming of the league of the "thirty-three"--Opening + of the campaign--The patriot force--Rank and its + distribution--The crossing of the River Plate--Commencement + of operations in Uruguay--A first success--Spread of the + movement--Rivera embraces the patriot cause--The march upon + Montevideo--A daring siege--How the army of occupation was + deceived--Timely reinforcements--Lavalleja establishes an + independent Government--Incident at the opening of the + Senate--Argentina comes to the assistance of Uruguay-- + Beginning of the rivalry between Rivera and Lavalleja-- + Dissension in the Uruguayan army--Temporary disgrace of + Rivera--His acquittal--Lavalleja declares himself + dictator--Uruguay's independence acknowledged by Argentina + and Brazil--The national authorities enter Montevideo. + + CHAPTER VIII + + HISTORY (_continued_) 107 + + Foreign war succeeded by internal chaos--Warriors + as statesmen--The dictatorship of Lavalleja--His + methods--The first open breach between Lavalleja and + Rivera--A temporary reconciliation--Establishment of + the Constitution of Uruguay--Lavalleja and Rivera + candidates for the president's chair--Differences + in the temperament of the two--Rivera is elected + first President of Uruguay--Jealousies and intrigues-- + Attack upon Rivera--Narrow escape of the President-- + Lavalleja's party temporarily occupy Montevideo--Defeat + of the insurgent general--His flight into Brazil-- + Intervention of the Argentine dictator Rosas--His + support of Lavalleja--Combined forces beaten by + Rivera--Lavalleja's second attempt proves unsuccessful-- + General Oribe succeeds Rivera as President--Lavalleja's + party again in the ascendant--Rivera heads a revolution-- + Civil war--Intervention of France--Resignation of Oribe-- + Rivera elected President--His alliance with the French + and Corrientinos--Declaration of war against Rosas--Defeat + of the latter--On the withdrawal of the French Rosas + resumes the aggressive--Severe defeat of Rivera and his + allies of the littoral provinces--Oribe besieges + Montevideo--The services of Garibaldi--The Uruguayan + forces decimated--Further incidents of the war--The power + of Rosas broken by Brazil, Uruguay, and Entre Rios. + + CHAPTER IX + + HISTORY (_continued_) 118 + + Condition of Uruguay at the conclusion of the war + against Rosas--Measures for the relief of poverty-- + Juan Francisco Giro elected President--The arising of + antagonistic elements--Giro resigns in favour of + Bernardo Berro--A revolution ends in the formation + of a triumvirate--On the death of Lavalleja and Rivera, + Flores becomes Dictator--Rebellion against his rule-- + Brazil sends an army to the assistance of General + Flores--Further revolutionary movements--Manuel Basilio + Bustamente succeeds Flores--The policy of General + César Diaz--His exile and return at the head of an + army--Defeat and death of Diaz--Two interim Presidents-- + Continuous civil war--General Flores enters the + Republic in command of a strong force and is declared + Dictator--The Paraguayan war--Causes of its outbreak--The + policy and military strength of Paraguay--Strategic + errors--Uruguay's share in the campaign--Flores returns + to Montevideo from the seat of war--His assassination-- + General Lorenzo Batlle elected President--The continuance + of political unrest--Various presidents and dictators-- + The Government of the present day--Don José Batlle y + Ordoñez--Doctor Claudio Williman--The Uruguayan + battlefields in tabular form--Progress of the land. + + CHAPTER X + + URUGUAYAN MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 128 + + The temperament of the Oriental--Some merits of the + race--The Spanish Main as treated in fiction-- + Distinctions between the villains in print and in + actual life--Civility as a national trait--Courtesy of + officials--The Uruguayan as a sturdy democrat--A + land of equality--Some local mannerisms--Banquets + and general hospitality--Some practical methods of + enjoying life--Simplicity _versus_ ostentation--Some + consequences of prosperity--The cost of living-- + Questions of ways and means--European education and + its results--Some evidences of national pride--The + physique of the Oriental--Sports and games--Football-- + The science of bull-fighting--Eloquence and the + oratorical art--Uruguayan ladies--Local charm of + the sex--South American institutions--Methods by which + they have been improved--The advantages of experiments-- + The Uruguayan army and navy--Some characteristics of the + police--Honesty of the nation--Politics and temperament. + + CHAPTER XI + + ABORIGINAL TRIBES 138 + + The population of Uruguay prior to the Spanish + conquest--Principal tribes--Paucity of information + concerning the early aboriginal life--The Charrúas-- + Warlike characteristics of the race--Territory of the + tribe--Stature and physique--Features--The occupations + of war and hunting--Temperament and mannerisms--A + people on the nethermost rung of the social ladder-- + Absence of laws and penalties--Medicine-men--A crude + remedy--The simplicity of the marriage ceremony--Morality + at a low ebb--The prevalence of social equality--Method + of settling private disputes--The Charrúas as warriors-- + Tactics employed in warfare--Some grim signals of + victory--Treatment of the prisoners of war--Absence of + a settled plan of campaign--Arms of the Charrúas--Primitive + Indian weapons--Household implements--Burial rites--The + mutilation of the living out of respect for the dead--Some + savage ceremonies--Absence of religion--A lowly existence-- + Desolate dwellings--Change of customs effected by the + introduction of horses--Indian appreciation of cattle-- + Improvement in the weapons of the tribe--Formidable + cavalry--The end of the Charrúas--Other Uruguayan + tribes--The Yaros--Bohanes--Chanas--Guenoas--Minuanes-- + Arachanes. + + CHAPTER XII + + MONTEVIDEO 151 + + Population--Attributes of the city--Situation of the + Uruguayan capital--The Cerro--A comparison between the + capitals of Argentina and Uruguay--The atmosphere of + Montevideo--A city of restful activity--Comparatively + recent foundation--Its origin an afterthought--Montevideo + in 1727--Homely erections--Progress of the town--Advance + effected within the last thirty years--The Uruguayan + capital at the beginning of the nineteenth century--Some + chronicles of the period--The ubiquity of meat--Dogs + and their food--Some curious accounts of the prevalence + of rats--The streets of old Montevideo--Their perils + and humours--A comparison between the butchers' bills + of the past and of the present--Some unusual uses for + sheep--Methods in which the skulls and horns of cattle + were employed--Modern Montevideo--The National Museum--An + admirable institution--Theatres--Critical Montevidean + audiences--Afternoon tea establishments--The Club + Uruguay--The English Club--British community in the + capital--Its enterprise and philanthropy--The _Montevideo + Times_--A feat in editorship--Hotels--Cabs and public + vehicles--The cost of driving. + + CHAPTER XIII + + MONTEVIDEO 161 + + The surroundings of the capital--Pleasant resorts--The + Prado--A well-endowed park--Colón--Aspects of the + suburbs--Some charming _quintas_--A wealth of flowers + and vegetation--European and tropical blossoms side by + side--Orchards and their fruits--The cottages of the + peasants--An itinerant merchant--School-children--Methods + of education in Uruguay--The choice of a career-- + Equestrian pupils--The tramway route--Aspects of the + village of Colón--Imposing eucalyptus avenues--A country + of blue-gum--Some characteristics of the place--Flowers + and trees--Country houses--The Tea Garden Restaurant-- + Meals amidst pleasant surroundings--An enterprising + establishment--Lunch and its reward--Poçitos and Ramirez-- + Bathing places of the Atlantic--Blue waters compared with + yellow--Sand and rock--Villa del Cerro--The steam ferry + across the bay--A town of mixed buildings--Dwelling-places + and their materials--The ubiquitous football--Aspects of + the Cerro--Turf and rock--A picturesque fort--Panorama + from the summit of the hill--The guardian of the river + mouth--The last and the first of the mountains. + + CHAPTER XIV + + FROM MONTEVIDEO TO THE NORTHERN FRONTIER 172 + + Leaving Montevideo--General aspects of the Campo--The + Rio Negro as a line of demarcation--Growing exuberance + of the scenery--Flor Morala--Blue lupin--Camp flowers--A + sparsely populated countryside--Absence of homesteads--A + soft landscape--Humble ranchos--Cattle and horses--Iguanas + and ostriches--Deer--Cardoso--Influence of climate and + marriage upon the colonists--A cheese-making centre--A + country of table-lands--A Campo road--Some + characteristics of the way--A group of riders--Some + contrasts--A country of rocks--Stone walls--Crude + homesteads--Kerosene tins as building material--Camp + stations--The carpets of blossom--Piedra Sola--Tambores-- + Landscape and nomenclature--Increase in the height of the + table-lands--Scenes at a country station--Aspects of the + inhabitants--Some matters of complexion--The train and + its transformation--Influence of the country upon the + carriages--Northern passengers--Metropolitan and local + costume--Some questions of clothes and figure--Relations + between mistresses and maids--Democratic households--A + patriarchal atmosphere--Things as they seem, and as they + are--Conversation no guide to profession. + + CHAPTER XV + + FROM MONTEVIDEO TO THE NORTHERN FRONTIER (_continued_) 183 + + A remarkable transformation in nature--The Valley of + Eden--The gateway of the garden--An abrupt descent--From + bare plain to sub-tropical forest--Picturesque scenery-- + Eden station--Some curiosities of nomenclature--Beggary + as a profession--The charity of the Latin lands--The + cliffs of the valley--Varied aspects of the vegetation-- + The everlasting sweet-pea--Some characteristics of the + mountains--A land of tobacco--Negro cultivators--Appearance + and dwellings of the coloured population--Some ethics of + climate and costume--Tacuarembo--A centre of importance--A + picturesque town--Scenes at the station--Some specimens of + local humanity--A dandy of the Campo--The northern + landscape--The African population--Nature and the hut--The + tunnel of Bañada de Rocha--Paso del Cerro--On the Brazilian + border--Rivera--A frontier town--Santa Ana--The Brazilian + sister-township--A comparison between the two--View from + a neighbouring hill--The rival claims to beauty of the + Uruguayan and Brazilian towns. + + CHAPTER XVI + + HERE AND THERE IN URUGUAY 195 + + Uruguayan roads--A comparison with those of Argentina-- + The benefits of stone--Some fine metalled highways--The + road to San José--On the way to Pando--The journey as + effected by motor-car--A smiling landscape--Distant + sand-dunes--A spotless range--The mountains of Minas-- + The town of Pando--A typical minor urban centre--The + ending of the macadamised road--The track beyond--An + abrupt change in the order of going--The bumps of the + Campo--Piriapolis--A budding pleasure resort--Completeness + of the enterprise--Eucalyptus forests--A vehicular wreck + by the way--Unsuccessful Samaritans--The work of Señor + Piria--The Castillo--An imposing home--View from the + spot--The Pan de Azucar--A landscape of mountain, valley, + forest, and sea--Architecture of the Castillo--Piriapolis + Bay--A centre of future bathing--Preparations already + effected--The hotel and casino--A wonderful feat of + private enterprise--Afforestation--Encouragement of the + industry by the Uruguayan Government--The work of Mr. + Henry Burnett--The transformation of arid soil into + fertile land--Commercial success of the venture--The + Maldonodo sand-dunes--Fulgurites--A curiosity of the + sands--Discoveries by Mr. C. E. R. Rowland. + + CHAPTER XVII + + MERCEDES AND THE SWISS COLONY 205 + + The journey to Mercedes--The outskirts of Montevideo-- + Santa Lucia--A pleasant town--Native quince and gorse-- + San José--The terminus of a great highway--Some feats + of engineering--The urban importance of San José--A + modern flour-mill--Mal Abrigo--Character of the soil--A + country of boulders--Some animals of the Sierra de Mal + Abrigo--The surroundings of Mercedes--A charmingly + situated town--The terminus of the line--Some + characteristics of Mercedes--Urban dwellings--The + delights of the _patio_--The disadvantages of economy in + space--Streets and plazas--The hospital--A well-equipped + institution--View from the building--An island in the Rio + Negro--The Port of Mercedes--River craft--Some local + scenes--An equine passenger--Formidable gutters--The + industries of the town--The Hôtel Comercial--Colonia + Suiza--Situation of the Swiss Colony--Uruguayan Campo + dwellings--Method of construction--Simplicity of + household removals--Aspect of deserted huts--The houses + of the Swiss Colony--Habits in general of South American + colonists--The range of nationalities--Liberty accorded-- + Population of the Colonia Suiza--Its industries--A dairy + farming community--An important butter factory--An + instance of a rapid rise from poverty to riches. + + CHAPTER XVIII + + COLONIA 215 + + An historical town--Rarity of mines in the River Plate + countries--Specimens at Colonia--Situation of the town-- + Past antagonism between the capitals of Argentina and + Uruguay--Present aspect of Colonia compared with the + former--A sleepy hollow--Periodical awakenings of the + place--Impressions of the old town--Its colouring and + compactness--Fortifications of the city of discord--A + warlike history--Nations that have warred together at + the spot--The reddest corner in a bloodstained land-- + Surroundings of the town--Crumbling masonry--A medley of + old and new--A Colonia street--Old-times scenes of peace + and war--Some pictures of the past--Cannon as road + posts--The Plaza--An episode in the wars with Portugal-- + The eternity of romance--Real de San Carlo--A modern + watering-place--Its buildings--The bullring--A gigantic + pelota court--Popularity of the spot--A miniature + tramway--Attractions of Real de San Carlo--Vegetation + on the sands--A curious colour scheme--Pleasant + lanes--Buenos Aires as a supplier of tourists. + + CHAPTER XIX + + THE URUGUAY RIVER 225 + + A great waterway--The river compared with the Paraná-- + Some questions of navigation--The lower stretch of the + Uruguay--The stream from Montevideo upwards-- + Montevideo--The docks--An imposing array of Mihanovich + craft--Breadth of the river--Aspects of the banks--Various + types of vessels--The materials of their cargoes--The + meeting of sister steamers--The etiquette of salutations-- + Fray Bentos--The Lemco factory and port--A notable spot-- + The Paradise of the eater--The islands of the Uruguay-- + Method of their birth and growth--The responsibility of + leaves and branches--Uncertainty of island life--The + effects of flood and current--Sub-tropical bergs--The + vehicles of wild creatures--A jaguar visitation in + Montevideo--Narrowing of the stream--Paysandú--The + home of ox-tongues--The second commercial town of the + Republic--Some features of the place--Variety of the + landscape--The _Mesa de Artigas_--An historical table-land-- + A monument to the national hero--Salto--A striking town-- + Pleasant landscape--The Salto falls--The ending of the + lower Uruguay--A rocky bed--Some minerals of Salto-- + Alteration in the colour of the water--The beauty of the + upper Uruguay. + + CHAPTER XX + + THE URUGUAYAN CAMPO 237 + + Formation of the land--A survey of the country--Features + of the soil--Types of wild flowers--A land of hill, + valley, and stream--The glamour of the distance--"The + purple land"--Breezes of the Campo--An exhilarating + country--The dearth of homesteads--The Uruguayan Gaucho-- + His physique--The product of the blowy uplands--Matters + of temperament--His comparative joviality--The Gaucho as + worker, player, and fighter--The manipulation of feuds-- + A comparison between Argentina and Uruguay--Warrior + ancestors of the Gaucho--His sense of dignity and honour-- + Conservative habits and customs--Costume and horse gear-- + Strenuous _bailes_--Some homeric feats of dancing-- + Stirring revelry--The Uruguayan landowner--Foreign + elements in the land--Negro inhabitants of the Banda + Oriental--The numerical status of the Africans in the + north and in the south--Absence of a racial question--The + slavery of former days--The employment of black troops in + war--Lenient treatment of negro slaves--Harsh measures + applied to aboriginal Indians--A lesson in human economy-- + Testimony of a contemporary writer--Immigrant colonies. + + CHAPTER XXI + + ESTANCIA LIFE 246 + + Similarities between the farming routine of Uruguay + and of Argentina--The Banda Oriental a pastoral rather + than an agricultural land--Viticulture an asset in + Estancia affairs--Wheat, maize, and linseed--Scarcity + of alfalfa--Excellence of the natural pastures--The + possibilities of private agricultural colonisation-- + Favourable outlook for grazing countries in general-- + Lemco estancias--The estancia San Juan--A comprehensive + enterprise--Cattle, cereals, and viticulture--Stone + quarries--A Campo stretch--The cutting out of a + bullock--A Gaucho meal. + + CHAPTER XXII + + URUGUAY AS A PASTORAL COUNTRY 254 + + Origin of the live stock of the country--Influence + of the climate and pastures upon the first animals + introduced--Live stock census of 1909--Importance + of the breeding industry--Various ramifications-- + Principal items of home consumption--Articles of + export--Quality of the first herds introduced--Type + of original sheep and horses--Goats and pigs--The + introduction of a superior class of animals--The + _criollos_ and the _mestizos_--Breeds imported--Durham, + Hereford, Polled Angus, and Devon cattle--Dutch, + Norman, Flemish, and Swiss cattle--Growth of the + dairy industry--Popular breeds of sheep and horses + and pigs--Principal countries from which the animals + are derived--Growing value of the local-bred live + stock--The manipulation of an _estancia_--Well-found + estates--Uruguayan agricultural societies--Work + effected by these--Government support--The Rural + Association of Uruguay--Financial results of + agricultural shows--Side products--Tallow--Hams-- + Tanning--"La Carolina"--A great dairy farm--The + factory of Breuss and Frey--The _saladeros_, or + meat-curing establishments--Number of animals + slaughtered--Method by which the meat is cured-- + _Tasajo_--Countries to which it is exported--The + frozen-meat trade--"La Frigorifica Uruguaya"-- + Important growth of the new industry--Shipments + of frozen meat. + + CHAPTER XXIII + + DEPARTMENTS, CLIMATE, AND NATURAL HISTORY 265 + + The nineteen divisions of Uruguay--Their populations, + areas, towns, and industries--Canelones--Florida--San + José--Durazno--Flores--Colonia--Soriano--Rio Negro-- + Paysandú--Salto--Artigas--Tacuarembó--Rivera--Cerro + Largo--Treinta y Tres--Rocha--Maldonado--Montevideo-- + Climate--Favourable conditions throughout the + Republic--The Atlantic coast line--The summer season-- + Pleasantly tempered heat--A land of cool breezes--Its + attractions as a pleasure resort--Climates of the + interior and of the north--Drought--Locusts--Comparative + immunity of a pastoral country--Uruguayan fauna--Some + common creatures of the Campo--Bird life--The ostrich--Its + value as a commercial asset--The trade in ostrich + feathers--Measures for the protection of the birds. + + CHAPTER XXIV + + INDUSTRIES AND NATURAL WEALTH 276 + + England's financial stake in Uruguay--British capital + invested in the Republic--Its monetary importance + compared with that of other South American nations-- + General commercial development of the country--A + satisfactory outlook--Progress of grazing and + agriculture--Marked increase in commerce--Uruguay's + exports--Cured meat and frozen carcasses--Diminution + of the former trade, increase of the latter--Reasons + for the transformation of industry--An outcome of + Brazilian protection--The breeding of fine cattle for + the European markets--Present situation of the world's + meat market--The British Isles as importers of meat--The + position in the United States--A change from the rôle of + exporter to that of importer--The increase in River Plate + shipments--Closeness of touch between South American and + English markets--Probable admission of foreign meat into + European countries--Intervention of the United States + Beef Trust--Purchase of _Frigorificos_--Possible effects + of a monopoly upon the producers--South American views + on the subject--Favourable general position of the River + Plate--The balance of power in beef--Extract of meat-- + The Lemco and Oxo Company--Ramifications of the + enterprise--The town of Fray Bentos--Agriculture-- + Wheat--Maize--Barley. + + CHAPTER XXV + + INDUSTRIES AND NATURAL WEALTH (_continued_) 286 + + Minerals--Past obstacles to the proper working of + mines--Gold--Auriferous prospects--Situation of the + goldfields of Uruguay--Past and present workings of + the mines--Influence of politics on labour--The + Corrales mine--Manganese--Districts in which iron ore + is met with--Mineral centres--Minas--Maldonado--Silver-- + Copper--Marble--Gypsum--Slate--Sulphur--Asbestos--Precious + stones--Diamonds and rubies--Jasper--Agate--The amethyst + and topaz--The water-stone--A peculiarity of Uruguay-- + Viticulture--Date of the introduction of the vine-- + Vicissitudes at the start--Consequent rapid progress-- + Vineyard area of the present day--The introduction of + suitable plants--Countries of origin--Production of + grapes and wine--Departments most suitable to the + industry--The seal-fisheries--Originally carried + on by the Indians--Habits of the seals--Development + of the industry--Government grants--Conditions and + concessions--Number of skins obtained since 1873-- + Islands inhabited by the seals--Method of killing + and curing--Waste of seal life--Suggestions for the + improvement of the industry--Scientific measures + necessary--A diplomatic incident in connection with + the seal-fisheries. + + CHAPTER XXVI + + COMMUNICATIONS AND COMMERCE 296 + + British enterprise in South America--The various + industries controlled--The railways of the southern + continent--A remarkable record--The opening up of + new lands--Some possibilities of the future--Sound + basis on which the extension of the lines is founded-- + Products and transport facilities--Probable influence + of communications--Uruguayan railways--A high standard + of enterprise--Comfortable travelling--Some comparisons + between Uruguay and Argentina as railway countries-- + Level country _versus_ hills--Stone _versus_ alluvial + soil--Question of ballast--Importance of the new + ramifications--Railway construction in Uruguay--History + of the lines--Government obligations--Mileage and + capital of the companies--Interest paid on capital-- + Various railway systems--Areas served--The Central + Company--Sketch of lines and extensions--Important + developments--The communication with Brazil--Financial + position of the Company--Midland Uruguay Railway-- + Development and extension of the line--Receipts and + expenses--The North Western of Uruguay and Uruguay + Northern Railway--Montevidean tramways--Local, British, + and German enterprise--Steamer service of the River + Plate--The Mihanovich line--Ocean passenger traffic-- + Montevideo the sole port of call--The Royal Mail Steam + Packet Company--The Pacific Line--The Nelson Line--Other + British companies--Position of British exports--Sound + consular advice. + + CHAPTER XXVII + + POLITICS AND REVOLUTIONS 311 + + The Constitution of Uruguay--Government of the + Republic--Deputies and senators--Their duties--The + civil code--Marriage--Rights of foreigners--Law--The + Commission of Charity and Public Welfare--Hospitals-- + Orphan asylums--Infirmaries--The charity hospital + lottery--The distribution of political parties--The + _Colorados_ and the _Blancos_--Policy of either--Feud + between the parties--Old-standing strife--Explanation + of the nomenclature--Origin of the feud--Rivera and Oribe-- + Inherited views--Attitude of the foreigners--Revolutions-- + Manner of the outbreak--Government precautions--The need + of finance and arms--Some rebellious devices--Rifles as + Manchester goods--The importance of horses--Difficulties + that attend a revolutionary movement--The sweeping up of + horses--Equine concentration camps--A powerful weapon + in the hands of the authorities--First signs of an + outbreak--Sylvan rendezvous--The question of + reinforcements--Some desperate ventures--Their + accustomed end--Chieftains of the north--Effect of + a revolution upon local industries--Needs of the + army--Estancia hands as troopers--Hasty equipment-- + Manner in which actual hostilities are conducted--"The + Purple Land that England lost"--The spirit of Modernism + and the internal struggle--Tendency to localise the + fields of strife--Power of the _Colorado_ party--Whence + the restrictive partisans are drawn--Distinguishing + Insignia--Some necessary precautions on the part of + the foreigner--Adventures derived from colour in + clothes--Some ludicrous episodes--The expense of + revolution. + + INDEX 343 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + + CATHEDRAL: MONTEVIDEO _Frontispiece_ + + FACING PAGE + + A RURAL INN 28 + + COUNTRY COACH AT LA SIERRA STATION 28 + + INDIAN MACE HEADS 38 + + INDIAN STONE AXE 38 + + A GAUCHO RACE: THE START 44 + + A GAUCHO RACE: THE FINISH 44 + + RUINED COLONIA 52 + + ARTIGAS' MONUMENT 52 + + MONTEVIDEO AND THE CERRO HILL 88 + + "AFTER CATTLE" 88 + + LAGO DEL PRADO: MONTEVIDEO 124 + + THE PRADO: MONTEVIDEO 124 + + THE PRINCIPAL PLAZA: MONTEVIDEO 130 + + THE HARBOUR: MONTEVIDEO 130 + + ANCIENT STONES EMPLOYED FOR NUT-CRUSHING 140 + + NATIVE "BOLEADORAS" 148 + + SOLIS THEATRE AND NATIONAL MUSEUM 156 + + THE CERRO FORT 156 + + THE BEACH AT PARQUE URBANO 162 + + THE SAN JOSÉ ROAD BRIDGE 162 + + EUCALYPTUS AVENUE: COLON 166 + + OXEN DRAWING RAILWAY COACH 186 + + BEFORE THE FAIR: TACUAREMBÓ 186 + + FRONTIER STONE AT RIVERA 192 + + TUNNEL AT BAÑADA DE ROCHA 192 + + EUCALYPTUS FOREST: PIRIAPOLIS 198 + + THE CASTILLO: PIRIAPOLIS 198 + + THE PAN DE AZUCAR MOUNTAIN 202 + + THE NEW HOTEL: PIRIAPOLIS 202 + + MERCEDES: FROM ACROSS THE RIO NEGRO 208 + + RIO NEGRO BRIDGE 212 + + ON THE RIO NEGRO 212 + + COLONIA: RUINED FORTRESS WALL 218 + + A CAMPO GRAVEYARD 218 + + THE BULL RING 222 + + ON THE URUGUAY RIVER 230 + + A URUGUAYAN STREAM 230 + + CATTLE ON THE ROAD 234 + + A CORNER OF THE FRAY BENTOS FACTORY 234 + + A PASTORAL SCENE 238 + + THE BICHADERO ESTANCIA 246 + + HEREFORD CATTLE ON THE BICHADERO ESTANCIA 246 + + ESTANCIA HOUSE: SAN JUAN 250 + + CHÂLET AT COLONIA SUIZA 258 + + THE VINTAGE: ESTANCIA SAN JUAN 258 + + STREAM ON THE SAN JUAN ESTANCIA 272 + + THE CATTLE DIP 280 + + DRYING JERKED MEAT 280 + + A SEAL ROOKERY 292 + + BASKING SEALS 292 + + OX WAGON ON THE CAMPO 316 + + CROSS-COUNTRY TRAVELLING 316 + + PEDIGREE CATTLE 320 + + OVEN BIRD'S NEST 320 + + + + +URUGUAY + + + + +CHAPTER I + +SURVEY + + Geographical situation of the Republic--Boundaries and + area--Uruguay as an historical, commercial, and financial + centre--The respective positions of Uruguay and + Paraguay--Disadvantages of a buffer State--A land of sunshine and + shadow--The history of Uruguay--The blending of industry and + warfare--Vitality of the nation--Instances of self-sacrifice--A + South American Switzerland--A freedom-loving folk--Deeds of arms + and the undercurrents of commerce--Montevideo in the eyes of the + casual traveller--Factors that make for the progress of the Banda + Oriental--Influence of railway--Coming cessation of the North + American beef shipments--Temperament of the + Uruguayan--Distinction between Argentine and Uruguayan + politics--The clans of the Banda Oriental--The birthright of + party convictions--Education in Uruguay--National points of + honour--Liberty accorded the foreigner--The courtesy of + officials--An incident at the customs-house--Popularity of the + English--A gratifying situation--Satisfactory international + relations--The work of Mr. R. J. Kennedy, the British Minister + Plenipotentiary--Uruguay's pacific foreign policy--Careful + finance--Army and navy--General progress of the nation. + + +Uruguay may be described as a republic of comparatively small +dimensions sandwiched in between the great territories of Argentina +and Brazil, and bounded on the south by the Southern Atlantic Ocean +and the estuary of the River Plate. Its actual area, 72,100 square +miles, is less than that of the British Isles, and thus the Banda +Oriental, to use the name by which the State is locally known, enjoys +the distinction of being the smallest of the South American republics. +But, although this distinction applies to actual area, it serves for +remarkably little else in the country. Indeed, an astonishing amount +is packed within the frontiers of Uruguay. In the first place it is a +land where much history has been made. Secondly, to turn to its +industrial assets--although I do not intend to deal with the +commercial side of the Republic more fully than can be helped--it is a +country where many cattle are bred. Lastly, it is a place in which no +less than fifty million pounds sterling of English money are invested. +Thus the small Republic, as an investment field, ranks third in +importance amongst all the States of South America, a fact that is +realised by remarkably few outside its own boundaries. + +Uruguay and Paraguay are frequently confused by those quite unfamiliar +with South American affairs, owing to the similarity of the +nomenclature. In actual fact the two countries have very little in +common, save in their political situation. Both separated themselves +from the River Plate Provinces in the course of the War of +Independence, since which time both have served as buffer States +between Argentina and Brazil. The position of such is seldom enviable +at the best of times. Upon Uruguay it has worked with an especial +degree of hardship, since even before the days of her independence it +was upon her suffering soil that the too frequent differences between +Spaniard and Portuguese were fought out. + +[Illustration: A RURAL INN.] + +[Illustration: COUNTRY COACH AT LA SIERRA STATION. +To face p. 28.] + +As to the international jealousies of a later era, they have not been +without their influence upon the domestic affairs of the central +State. Thus on not a few occasions the result of foreign diplomacy has +been civil war within the boundaries of Uruguay, with consequences +that were necessarily disastrous to the nation. The Banda Oriental is +a land of sunshine, it is true, but one of shadow too, which is +logical enough, since without the former the latter cannot obtain. Its +metaphorical sunshine is represented by the undoubted merits of its +inhabitants, its temporary shadows by the circumstances in which they +have found themselves placed. + +He would be no real friend of Uruguay who strove to show that the +march of the country has not been rudely arrested on innumerable +occasions. Indeed, were it not for the conditions that have prevailed +for centuries, the actual forward steps that the Republic has effected +would be far less remarkable than is in reality the case. The history +of Uruguay reveals a continuous medley of peace and war. Its swords +have been beaten into ploughshares and welded back again into lethal +weapons ere the metal had cooled from the force of the former +operation. + +Each series of such transformations, moreover, has occurred at +intervals sufficiently short to destroy utterly the hopes and +prosperity of an ordinary people. Over and over again the Uruguayans +have strewn the battlefields with their dead; yet during each interval +they have continued to plant the soil with its proper and more +profitable seed. An extraordinary vitality on the part of the people +joined to the natural wealth of the land have been the factors by +means of which the small Republic has brushed away the results of its +wars as lightly as though such convulsions were summer showers. + +The history of Uruguay reveals an admirable amount of pure heroism. +Apart from the fighting merits that are inborn and natural to the +race, the most unsympathetic reader of its past pages cannot deny to +it the innumerable instances of self-sacrifice that were the fruit of +loftier ideals. Of the many vivid battle scenes that were painted in +too deadly an earnest against their neighbours and even amongst +themselves, there are few that are not relieved by some illuminating +act of heroism, for all the utter ferocity and courage by which these +conflicts were wont to be marked. Uruguay, in fact, was something of a +South American Switzerland; but a Switzerland bereft of the lofty +peaks and mountain tops that assisted the men of the Cantons against +the Austrians, endowed, moreover, with a more restless and +undisciplined folk of its own. Yet in many respects the resemblance +holds good, and for one reason most of all. The Orientales rested not +until they had won their freedom. Not once but several times they were +forced to wrest it from the stranger ere it finally became secure. + +At later periods, too, it is not to be denied that the greater bulk of +the neighbouring nations has stood out remorselessly between Uruguay +and the sunlight. There have been times when the small Republic has +been ground between the great mills of Argentina and Brazil. Thus her +progress--steady and all but continuous in spite of the civil wars and +revolutions that have torn her--has been achieved all but unnoticed +and entirely unapplauded. Europeans, and many South Americans too, +read of the Uruguayan battlefields and deeds of arms, yet they learn +nothing of the undercurrent of industry that has flowed onwards all +the while beneath the turbulence of the wild warrings. Nevertheless, +this progress has been very real, and that it must become apparent to +the world before long is certain. Even to the present day Uruguay +amongst nations has remained "a violet by a mossy stone, half hidden +from the eye." To the ordinary person who passes between Europe and +South America, Montevideo represents little beyond a whistling station +between the two important halts at Buenos Aires and Rio de Janeiro. +In justice to the Banda Oriental's neighbour be it said that this +ignorance does not apply to the actual resident in Argentina, and +least of all to the dwellers in Buenos Aires. To them the commercial +importance and general attractions of Uruguay and its capital are well +enough known. This interest, however, is merely local, and fails to +extend beyond the familiar radius of the pleasant little Republic's +influence. + +Commercially speaking, it is difficult to understand how the factors +that have now arisen to drag the Banda Oriental from its undeserved +oblivion can well fail in their task. The linking of the country by +railway with Brazil, the influence that the imminent cessation of the +North American beef exportation is bound to exert upon a +stock-breeding country, to say nothing of the internal progress +already referred to, must undoubtedly result sooner or later in +bringing the gallant little nation into the light of publicity. + +A fusion of warring parties, an end of civil strife, and a strict +attention to the less risky and more profitable business of the day +should follow in the natural sequence of events. Very hale, hearty, +and jovial though he is, it must be admitted that the Oriental is in +deadly earnest when engaged in civil battle--as is the case with all +who pursue a hobby to the detriment of a more lucrative occupation. +Yet the substitution of gunshots for the suffrage is not only +expensive, but, from the polling point of view, unpleasantly devoid of +finality. + +The distinctions between the political arrangements of Uruguay and +Argentina are curiously marked. For generations the latter country has +been governed by a succession of groups that have respectively formed +and dissolved without leaving any marked cleavage in the society of +the nation. Strictly speaking, Argentina possesses neither faction +spirit nor party. Uruguay, on the other hand, is concerned first and +foremost with these very matters of party. + +The history of the Colorados and the Blancos--the reds and +whites--would in itself suffice to fill a volume. Probably in no other +part of the world have the pure considerations of clan triumphed to +such an extent over the general political situation. Until the present +day the line between the rival camps has been as absolute as that +between life and death. The position of either is immutable. Neither +argument, mode of government, nor the vicissitudes of state are among +the considerations by which they are affected. A man is born one of +two things--a Blanco or a Colorado. This birthright, moreover, is to +be exchanged for no mere mess of pottage; it is valued above the price +of life itself. Such, at all events, has been the creed of the past, +and to a large extent it still holds good, although the stress of +modern influence is just beginning to leave its mark upon the +cast-iron prejudices that are the relicts of another age. + +At the same time, it must not be inferred from this that the Uruguayan +is ignorant or small-minded. Far from it. Education enjoys an +exceptionally high standard throughout the country, and a most liberal +breadth of view is typical of the nation. This is readily admitted, +and even insisted upon, by foreigners whose dealings with the +native-born dwellers in the Republic have placed them in a position to +render an accurate judgment. In internal politics, however, there are +prejudices, considerations of clan, and points of honour that are not +to be gauged from a purely commercial standpoint. + +The foreigner in Uruguay is accorded a most complete liberty, and +there are few of these who have resided for any length of time within +its frontiers who have not become very truly attached to the land and +its people. + +It has frequently been my lot to pass over from Argentina to Uruguay, +arriving at one of the minor ports that dot the middle reaches of the +great river. But it so happened that I had never landed, bag and +baggage, at the capital until the time came for a regular and +organised spying out of the land. An incident at the start lent a very +pleasing aspect to the visit. The customs-house officer, in whose +hands lay the fate of the interior of my baggage, gazed from where it +lay piled upon the official trestle in the direction of its owner. +"Inglez?" he demanded in the curt tone of one in authority. When I had +signified assent he smiled cordially, sketched with rapid fingers the +magic chalk marks upon the impedimenta, and then motioned me to pass +through the portals with all the honours of customs, locks unviolated, +and straps in repose. + +I have not introduced this incident from any personal motives. It +merely affords an instance of a very genuine courtesy rendered to the +nation through the medium of one of its most humble units. Yet it is +from such attentions to a stranger that the trend of the general +attitude may be gleaned. The English are not a little addicted to a +frank confession of their unpopularity amongst the South Americans in +general. The attitude may be the result of a certain pose, since they +claim full credit for the respect that is undoubtedly theirs by right. +Nevertheless, whether imagined or real, the idea obtains. + +In Uruguay at the present moment the Englishman is so obviously _not_ +unpopular that it is gratifying to be able to proclaim the fact. +Whatever the fates may have in store the existing understanding +between the Uruguayans and the British is very cordial and complete. +In words as well as in deeds it is perhaps advisable to let well +alone. Yet it is satisfactory to reflect that innumerable practical +proofs show that this mutual esteem which has existed for centuries +has never been more firmly grafted than at the present day. There can +be no doubt, moreover, that the present satisfactory phase is very +largely due to the efforts of Mr. R. J. Kennedy, the British Minister +Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary, whose tact and conscientious +ability have won for him respect and popularity on the part of +Uruguayans and resident British alike--a consummation to which it is +the lot of sufficiently few ministers to attain. + +Although internal disturbances may continue to arise from time to +time, the position of Uruguay is now undoubtedly consolidated to a far +greater extent than has ever been the case in former years. The nation +that sprang into being at the commencement of the nineteenth century +had to contend with indefinite frontiers at the best of times, and +with the frequent waves of turbulence that swept inwards over the land +from the greater centres of disturbance without its borders. Now for +many decades an undisturbed peace has characterised the foreign +affairs of the nation, and such differences as have occurred from time +to time with the neighbouring republics have been settled in an +essentially pacific and reasonable spirit. + +A striking instance of this has occurred quite recently in the case of +the vexed question concerning the delimitation of neutral waters in +the River Plate. The rights affecting a great inland and international +highway are naturally most delicate and difficult to adjust, as the +past history of the entire river system here has proved on numerous +occasions. In this particular instance had either Uruguay or Argentina +shown any other but a fair and conciliatory spirit, the consequences +cannot fail to have been serious in the extreme. As it was, the +dispute was brought to a satisfactory and amicable conclusion, much to +the credit of the respective diplomatists concerned. + +For many years now the policy of the Banda Oriental Government has +been practical and deliberate. In matters of finance extreme caution +has been exercised, and economy in expenditure has been rigid. The +result is now evident in the very favourable financial position of the +Republic, since it is now endowed with more solid monetary sinews than +has ever been the case before. The nation, moreover, is free from any +excessive expenditure on its army and navy. Both branches of the +service are on a small scale, and in this moderation Uruguay is +undoubtedly wise; since, although the race possesses its fighting +instincts to the full, the population and resources of the Republic +would not allow it to compete either in numbers, guns, or ships with +the armies of the neighbouring countries, or with the great naval +armaments that are being brought together. + +In the past there is no doubt that matters in Uruguay have been +regarded with a certain amount of pessimism--a gloomy view for which +the alleged instability of the Government was chiefly responsible. +Were all that has been said on this head strictly accurate, there is +no doubt that the condition of the country would be parlous indeed. On +numberless occasions, however, the reports that have prevailed have +been remarkable merely for their exaggeration. Frequently, moreover, +such highly coloured--or rather darkened--pictures have been depicted +to serve interests in Europe rather than in Uruguay. Commercially +speaking, it is surely a matter for congratulation that even such a +disturbing element as civil strife should have left the financial +solidity of the Republic unimpaired. + +This point of view, however, is merely the financial one--important +enough in its place, but not sufficiently overwhelming to eliminate +all the other interests at stake. The spirit of progress has been +abroad, not only in the ethics of the pastures, banks, and business +houses, but in the more subtle fields of science, literature, and art +as well. This, however, is not the place in which to introduce details +or statistics concerning the improvements in the various ramifications +of the nation's existence. For the present let the statement suffice +that in no direction has a retrograde movement been perceptible: on +the contrary, a continuous progress has been evident in almost every +matter from the curing of beef to the making of scholars--two products +that are equally essential to the welfare of the land. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +HISTORY + + The discovery of Uruguay--Reception by the Indians--Juan de Solis + and his fate--Navigation of the River Plate--Serrano and + Magellanes--Rivalry between Spaniards and Portuguese--The first + settlement in the Banda Oriental--Aggressive tactics of the + Indians--Forts destroyed by them--Colonisation under + difficulties--The introduction of cattle--A prophetic + move--Intervention of the missionaries--Jesuit settlements + established--Uruguay's isolation comes to an end--Influence of + the livestock--Cattle-raiders--The first Portuguese + invasion--Victory of the Spaniards, assisted by native + auxiliaries--Treaties and their attendant troubles--The + indecision of Old Spain--Partial extermination of the + Indians--The town of Colonia as a bone of + contention--Introduction of the first negro slaves into the + provinces of the River Plate--Unrest on the Spanish main--Moreau, + the buccaneer--The fate of his expedition--Portuguese invaders + expelled by the Spaniards--A fort is constructed on the present + site of Montevideo. + + +The early history of Uruguay needs but cursory recapitulation, since +its episodes form part and parcel of the general discovery of the +River Plate. Juan Diaz de Solis, the famous explorer of the great +river, was the first leader in the Spanish service to set foot on +Uruguayan soil. The precise point of his disembarkation is unknown, +but it is certain enough that the spot lay somewhere just to the north +of the island of Martin Garcia. His reception at the hands of the +hostile Charrúa Indians, who at the time inhabited the district, was +fatally inhospitable. Solis and many more of the landing party of +fifty who accompanied him were slain by these natives almost as soon +as they had landed, and the disheartened expedition returned to Spain. + +It is supposed that Rodriguez Serrano was the first to sail the waters +of the Uruguay River proper. In 1520, when anchored in the mouth of +the River Plate on his way to the South, Magellane is supposed to have +sent this subordinate of his some distance up the Uruguay. There is +much, however, that is vague in the history of these particular +waterways at this time. A certain material reason obtained for the +mystery. The rivalry between the Spaniards and Portuguese tended +towards a concealment on the part of each of discoveries that affected +comparatively unknown and debatable areas. Thus there is no doubt that +various Portuguese expeditions sailed the Uruguay River at this +period; but the details of these are uncertain. + +In 1527 Spain, fearing the possibilities of Portuguese influence, +turned her attention once more to the great river system of the South. +It was in that year that Cabot founded the fort of San Sebastian on +the Uruguayan coast. This, at the confluence of the San Salvador River +with the Uruguay, was the first Spanish settlement in the country. Its +existence was short-lived. Attacked by the Charrúa Indians in 1529, +the fort was destroyed and many of its garrison slain. + +After this little was heard of the Uruguayan coast until, in 1552, +Irala, the famous Governor of the River Plate, ordered Captain Juan +Romero to found a settlement on that shore. Juan Romero set out with +an expedition of 120 men, and founded the settlement of San Juan at +the mouth of the river of the same name. This attempt was likewise +unsuccessful. The Charrúas had to be reckoned with, and two years +later the place was abandoned on account of their incessant attacks. + +[Illustration: INDIAN MACE HEADS.] + +[Illustration: INDIAN STONE AXE. +To face p. 38.] + +In 1573 another noted _conquistador_, Zarate, on the completion of his +voyage from Europe, arrived at the island of San Gabriel. He founded a +settlement on the neighbouring Uruguayan mainland, and the Charrúas +for once received him with comparative hospitality. Nevertheless it +was not long ere hostilities broke out, by reason of the Spaniard's +own arrogance, it is said. In the end the Europeans were completely +defeated by the famous chief Zapicán, losing over one hundred soldiers +and various officers. The Spaniards then retired to the island of San +Gabriel, leaving the aboriginal tribe in possession of the new +township, which they immediately destroyed. + +A short while after this Juan de Garay, afterwards famed as the +founder of the modern Buenos Aires, arrived near the scene of the +disaster. With a diminutive force (it is said by some that his +expedition comprised no more than twelve cavalry and twenty-two +infantry) he attacked Zapicán's army of a thousand men. The result was +the rout of the Indians, in the course of which Zapicán and many other +leading caciques perished. This action was fought in the neighbourhood +of ruined San Salvador, and Zarate founded a new settlement on the +ruins of the old. Triumph, however, was short-lived, for the Indians +remained as fiercely persevering as ever, and three years later their +aggressive tactics caused the establishment to be abandoned once +again. + +In 1603 it is said that Hernando Arias de Saavedra, the first +colonial-born Governor of the River Plate, led an expedition of five +hundred men against the Charrúas. Hernandarias, by which name the +Governor was popularly known, was a famous warrior of whose prowess +and feats of arms much is told. For all that, according to report, the +defeat of the Spanish force was so complete that only Hernandarias, +thanks to his tremendous personal strength, escaped from the field +alive. It is probable, however, that this version of the fight is, to +say the least of it, exaggerated. + +The next move of Hernandarias in the direction of the Banda Oriental +was of a more pacific nature. With a rare touch of wisdom and +foresight he shipped from Buenos Aires to Colonia across the river one +hundred head of cattle, and a like number of horses and mares. These, +sent adrift to roam at their own sweet will in the new country, +multiplied at least as fast as had been anticipated. The animals in +question undoubtedly stand as the nucleus of the pastoral riches of +to-day. Thus Hernandarias sent out wealth to the land that was closed +to his men in order that it should seed and multiply until the time +came for the European to take it over with the country itself. + +In this earlier era of River Plate history the march of civilisation +had been arrested at the first step in Uruguay on each occasion on +which it had been undertaken. It was not until the beginning of the +seventeenth century that success attended the endeavours of the +Spaniards. In 1618 the first missionaries entered Uruguay. The +Franciscan fathers Bernardo de Guzman, Villavicencio, and Aldao landed +in that year at the mouth of the Rio, and converted to Christianity +many members of the more peaceably disposed tribes. In 1624 Bernardo +de Guzman founded the first Uruguayan Jesuit settlement, Santo Domingo +de Soriano, and a little later the missions of Espinillo, Viboras, and +Aldao were established in the present provinces of Soriano and +Colonia. Larger and more important missions were shortly afterwards +founded in the north, and formed a more or less integral portion of +the great Jesuit field in Paraguay. At one time there were no less +than thirty-seven of these stations existing within the frontiers of +the old Banda Oriental as they were then defined. In consequence of +the later Brazilian encroachments, however, the sites of only seven of +these--San Francisco de Borga, San Nicolas, San Juan Bautista, San +Luis Gonzaga, San Miguel, San Lorenzo, and Santa Angel--lie within the +boundaries of the present Republic. + +While in the north of Uruguay the Indians, taught by the missionaries, +were now beginning to occupy themselves with agriculture and grazing, +in the south the herds introduced by Hernandarias were multiplying +amazingly. These were responsible for the visits of many who came over +from Argentina to slay the cattle and to collect their hides. They +were licensed by the Cabildo of Buenos Aires, who received a third of +the profits. In order to facilitate this traffic in hides, these +_Faeneros_, as they were termed, gradually established themselves upon +the banks of the Uruguay and its tributaries, and upon the ocean +coast. Thus the names of Cufré, Pavón, Toledo, Pando, Solis, +Maldonado, and many others have been bequeathed to the soil by the +merchant adventurers who trafficked in those spots, since each named +his settlement after himself. + +No little competition was afforded these Faeneros by the +_Changadores_, adventurers of a more reckless order who made their +incursions into the country without licence and against the law. +Corresponding precisely to the buccaneers of the farther north, they +slew where opportunity offered, taking refuge in Brazil when pursued, +until their growing numbers enabled them from time to time to offer +armed resistance to the officers of the Crown sent to chastise them. +Attracted by this commerce, pirates, whether of Portuguese or other +nationality, would occasionally make descents, and would raid and +harry the cattle in their turn. The Indians, for their part, were not +slow in availing themselves of this new and convenient source of +livelihood, and, according to a Uruguayan writer became "carnivorous +from necessity and equestrian from force of imitation." In 1680 a more +serious danger threatened the Banda Oriental. At the beginning of that +year a Portuguese fleet came to anchor off the island of San Gabriel. +Eight hundred soldiers and a number of colonist families were +disembarked at Colonia del Sacramento on the mainland, where they +founded a township. On learning of this invasion the Governor of +Buenos Aires, José de Garro, immediately demanded the evacuation of +the place. As a reply to this request, Lobo, the Portuguese commander, +triumphantly produced a map on which Colonia was represented as in +Brazilian territory. A strenuous geographical discussion ensued, at +the conclusion of which Garro, having failed to convince the intruders +of the inaccuracy of the chart by more subtle arguments, resolved to +expel the enemy by force. + +With this end in view he obtained the loan of three thousand Indians +from the Jesuits, who were by this time becoming accustomed to the +lending of men and arms for such patriotic purposes. With this force, +stiffened by the presence of three hundred Spaniards, he captured the +hostile settlement, taking prisoners the Portuguese Governor and +garrison. + +It is related that the Spanish general had prepared a striking _ruse +de guerre_ that was to serve in this assault. Four thousand loose +horses were to be driven to the front of the charging forces, and upon +these animals the first devastation of the artillery fire of the +defenders was to expend itself. The Indians, however, whose destined +place was in the vanguard, raised some powerful objections to this +scheme of attack. Considering with reason that a backward rush of the +wounded and terrified beasts--like that of the elephants of a previous +age--would promise greater disaster to themselves than to the enemy, +they protested against the living bulwark with its many possibilities. +Thus the town was captured without the aid of the horses, and the +first of the many combats that reddened the shore of Colonia ended in +favour of Spain. + +This triumph was short-lived. In 1681 Carlos II. of Spain in a weak +moment signed a treaty by which Colonia was given back to Portugal, to +be held by her until a definite decision could be arrived at +concerning the vexed question of ownership. In the meanwhile it was +arranged that the geographical arguments should be settled by the +pontifical authorities, whose expert knowledge upon the point was +doubtful. The Portuguese, moreover, in order to obtain an added salve +to their dignity, stipulated that Garro should be deprived of his +post. This was complied with; but the result did not in the least +coincide with the Portuguese expectations. Garro himself must have +smiled broadly when he learned that he was deprived of his command at +Buenos Aires in order to take over the superior governorship of Chile! + +In 1702 a campaign was waged against the Indians. The tactics of the +majority of the tribes had remained consistently aggressive, and their +predatory interest in the commerce of hides and dried meat had +developed to a pitch inconvenient to the settlers. The war, although +its scope did not include the entire aboriginal population, was one of +extermination so far as it went, and at its conclusion the sections of +the Charrúas, Bohanes, and Yaros in the neighbourhood of the River Yi +had practically ceased to exist. + +In the meanwhile Colonia, in the hands of the Portuguese, had become +the centre of contraband operations by means of which merchandise was +smuggled into the sternly closed port of Buenos Aires. As a point of +vantage it served so admirably for this purpose, and so greatly to the +profit of both the Portuguese and of the more unscrupulous residents +of Buenos Aires, that in 1705 Philip V. of Spain ordered its recapture +in earnest. + +For this purpose two thousand Spaniards and four thousand Jesuit +Indians assembled. After a six months' strenuous siege of the place +the Portuguese garrison fled in a fleet that had been sent to their +rescue, and Colonia passed back into the hands of the Spaniards. But +the vicissitudes of the spot were not yet at an end. Oblivious of the +past, Philip V. by the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713 ceded the town to the +Portuguese. Garcia Ros, the Governor of Buenos Aires, was of sterner +mould. Taking advantage of a loosely worded clause in the treaty, he +limited the Portuguese ownership of the soil to the radius of a +cannon-shot from the plaza of the town. By this means the +inconvenience of the occupation was to a certain extent neutralised. + +[Illustration: A GAUCHO RACE: THE START.] + +[Illustration: A GAUCHO RACE: THE FINISH. +To face p. 44.] + +About this time negro slaves were first introduced from Africa into +the provinces of the River Plate. This measure had been originally +urged by the famous Father Bartolomé de las Casas with a view of +augmenting the local force of labour, and thus of alleviating the +condition of the aboriginal races that in many parts were becoming +exterminated on account of the excess of toil imposed upon them. This +state of affairs, as a matter of fact, did not obtain in the Banda +Oriental, where Indian and Spaniard stood entirely apart. Nevertheless +an influx of negroes occurred in the province, and--though nothing can +be said in favour of the morality of the proceeding--there is no +doubt that, once arrived, their presence tended to benefit the +industries of the land. + +The period now was one of considerable unrest throughout the Spanish +main. For some while the adventurers of other nations, seeking a share +in the great riches of the South American provinces, had been knocking +loudly at the gates that remained closely barred to them. Privateering +and raids upon the coast had become more and more frequent, while the +Spanish galleons, in continuous dread of attack, only put to sea for +the purpose of long voyages in imposing numbers and beneath weighty +escort. The River Plate, owing to the practical absence of the mineral +traffic from its frontier, suffered far fewer depredations than fell +to the lot of the gold and silver bearing countries to the north. + +Yet the homelier riches of the pastoral districts were becoming known +and appreciated to a certain extent. In consequence of this the waters +of the River Plate from time to time had many unwelcome visitors. +Privateers of all nationalities, although their enforced ignorance of +the navigation forbade them to penetrate for any distance up the +waters of the great streams themselves in the face of local +opposition, harassed the coast-line, and occasionally landed in more +or less formidable parties. One of the most notable of these was a +French adventurer of the name of Moreau, whose buccaneering ideas were +considerably in advance of those of the majority who were wont to +harry these particular districts. Moreau's plan of campaign, in fact, +savoured rather of regular warfare than of the more usual methods of +the rapid raidings and retreats. Thus in 1720 he disembarked with a +body of men and four cannon at Maldonado, where he fortified himself, +and began to amass a great store of hides. Surprised by the Spaniards, +he was forced to take to his ships in haste, with the loss of his +guns and of his stock-in-trade. A few months later the Frenchman +returned, accompanied this time by a force of over a hundred +well-armed men, and prepared to settle himself for an extended stay in +the country. Curiously enough, it appears to have been the unfortunate +Moreau's fate to reverse the fighting rôles of the buccaneer and local +resident, since, instead of surprising others, it was he who was +caught unawares on either occasion. The termination of his second +visit was more fatal than that of his first. Attacked when in an +unprepared condition by the Spaniards, the defeat of the buccaneer +force was complete. Moreau himself was slain, together with the +greater part of his company, while the remainder were taken prisoners. + +Freed from this source of danger, the inhabitants of the Banda +Oriental were not long left without anxiety on another head. The +Portuguese had never ceased to covet the rich land that might be made +to serve as such a valuable and temperate pendant to their torrid +northern areas. The River Plate stood to them in the light of a Rhine, +and at the end of 1723 they awoke once more into aggressive activity. +An expedition then left Rio de Janeiro consisting of four ships with +three hundred soldiers. The force sailed to the point where the town +of Montevideo now stands, at that time a lonely spot whose commercial +and strategic importance was then for the first time discovered. Here +the expedition landed, and in a short while its leaders had negotiated +with the natives whom they found in the district, had supplied them +with arms, and had founded a settlement. On learning of this +aggression the Buenos Aires authorities determined to resist the +attempt in earnest. Gavala, the Spanish Governor, collected a powerful +fleet, and sailed in haste to the spot. The Portuguese, ascertaining +the strength of the attacking force, abandoned their new settlement, +and made off to the north without awaiting its arrival. Gavala then +took possession of Montevideo in turn, and took measures in order to +prevent a repetition of the incident. To this end he constructed a +powerful battery on the spot, and supplied the fort with a garrison of +a hundred Spanish troops, and with a thousand native auxiliaries. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +HISTORY--_continued_ + + Founding of the city of Montevideo--Its first + inhabitants--Inducement offered to colonists--The early days of + the town--Successful rising of the Indians in the + neighbourhood--Victory of the natives--Montevideo saved by Jesuit + intervention--The Portuguese invade the northern provinces--The + first Governor of Montevideo--Treaties and territorial + cessions--Dissatisfaction of Jesuit Indians--Their defeat by + combined Spanish and Portuguese forces--Vicissitudes of + Colonia--The danger of hostile residents--A concentration camp of + the old days--Expulsion of the Jesuits--Some incidents of the + wars with the Portuguese--The foundation of urban centres--The + English occupy themselves with the whaling industry on the + coast--Discouragement of the enterprise by the King of Spain--A + corps of Blandengues is created--The British invasion--Political + effects of the occupation--The war of independence--Montevideo as + the seat of the Spanish viceroyalty--Commencement of the + agitation for freedom in Uruguay. + + +On the 24th of December, 1726, was founded the city proper of +Montevideo. Its inception was sufficiently modest. Indeed, the spot +commenced its urban existence on a human diet of seven families +translated from Buenos Aires for the purpose. A little later twenty +families were brought from the Canary Islands to add to the humble +population. It is not a little curious to read how, even in those +early days, the spirit of colonial enterprise was already manifest in +the way that is now considered most up-to-date. Intending immigrants +to Montevideo were each offered free transport from Buenos Aires, +plots in the city and holdings in the Campo, two hundred head of +cattle, one hundred sheep, and free cartage of building material. They +were offered, beyond, tools, agricultural implements, and a remission +of taxes for a certain period. The whole savours strongly of a modern +immigration department. In any case, the inducements offered were +considerable. + +Two years after its foundation Montevideo received an important +reinforcement of citizens, when thirty families from the Canary +Islands and from Galicia were introduced into the place. Thus the +small town was already beginning to make its mark upon the surrounding +country, and at the end of 1728 it could count over two hundred +inhabitants, four hundred troops, and a thousand Indians employed +principally in the works of fortification. A couple of years later it +was deemed worthy of a corporation. + +Nevertheless, in this very year the growing settlement all but came to +a bloody and untimely end. A rising of the Charrúa Indians in the +immediate neighbourhood of Montevideo resisted all the efforts made to +subdue it. Over one hundred Spaniards were slain and the royal forces +put to rout. The natives, drunk with success, were on the eve of +entering Montevideo and of slaughtering the inhabitants, when a Jesuit +missionary, Padre Herán, intervened, and prevailed on the Indians to +desist from their purpose. + +Scarcely had this danger passed when another, and remoter, came into +being to take its place. The restless Portuguese having given peace to +the Banda Oriental for ten years, doubtless considered the period +unduly prolonged, and thus invaded the Rio Grande on the northern +frontier. Lavala's successor, Don Miguel de Salcedo, a ruler as +impotent as the first had been strong, contented himself with +besieging Colonia as a counter-stroke, while the Portuguese forces +were left free to complete the conquest of Rio Grande. This they +continued to hold, despite the terms of an armistice arranged in 1737 +between Spain and Portugal. + +For ten years after this no historical event of importance occurred to +disturb the progress of Uruguay. In 1747 a rising of the Indians was +utterly crushed at Queguay, and two years later Montevideo, now +acknowledged as a town of importance, was accorded a Governor of its +own. Don José Joaquin de Viana was the first appointed to the post. +His opinion of its urgency is evident from the fact that he only took +office in 1751. + +By the treaty of 1750 King Ferdinand VI. of Spain ceded to Portugal +the northern stretches comprising the Jesuit Missions of Uruguay and +the present province of Rio Grande in exchange for Colonia. As a +stroke of commercial diplomacy the bargain was undoubtedly a failure, +since by its means Spain not only lost for ever two flourishing +provinces, but, in addition, the Jesuits and their Indians were +obliged to forsake the field of their labours, and to migrate in +search of fresh country. + +This, however, was not the case with all alike. A large number of the +Indians, deeply attached to the neighbourhoods wherein lay their +homes, refused to follow the missionaries, and in the end resisted the +unwelcome decree. Pitted against the combined forces of Buenos Aires, +Uruguay, and Brazil, their cause had not a momentary chance of +success. After suffering various defeats, they were finally routed and +almost exterminated at Caaibate in 1756, when the native loss amounted +to 154 prisoners and 1,200 dead, at the very moderate Spanish cost of +4 dead and 41 wounded. The character of the action is sufficiently +evident from the butcher's bill. A certain number of the surviving +Indians were taken to Maldonado, and, settling there, formed the +nucleus of the present town. + +In the meanwhile Colonia, whose inhabitants by this time must have +been rendered giddy by the continuous substitution of bunting, had +again passed into the possession of the Portuguese. The recurrence of +war between these and the Spaniards gave Pedro de Ceballos, an able +and energetic Governor of Buenos Aires, an opportunity to act. In 1762 +he surprised Colonia, captured it, and was in the act of invading the +ceded territory of Rio Grande when the Treaty of Paris came +inopportunely into being to stay him in his path of conquest, and to +give back Colonia, that bone of contention, to the Portuguese once +more. + +This occurred in 1763, and Ceballos was powerless to struggle further +against a fate that caused victory to be followed by the loss of +provinces. Nevertheless, he took various measures towards the +preservation of the remaining territory. One of the most important of +these was concerned with the numerous Portuguese families that were +settled along the eastern frontier of the country. Having reason to +believe that these were hatching further warlike schemes in +conjunction with the authorities across the border, Ceballos caused +them to be taken south, and to be collected together in a small +settlement in the neighbourhood of Maldonado, where they could remain +under the watchful eye of the Uruguayan officials. + +In 1767 the expulsion of the Jesuits from South America by King Carlos +III. of Spain proved of no little moment to the Banda Oriental, since +many of the Indians, wandering shepherdless and at a loss, came +southwards, and became part and parcel of Uruguay. It was by means of +twelve of these Indian families that the city of Paysandú, amongst +several others, was founded, while the fields of Montevideo and +Maldonado derived many new cultivators from this source. + +It was but a very few years later that the trouble with the Portuguese +broke out once again. Indeed, it would seem that indulgence in border +feud had now become an ineradicable habit on the part of both sides. +By the year 1774 the inhabitants of Brazil had once again passed over +the north-western frontier, and had spread themselves over the country +in such numbers as to render their presence a menace to Uruguay. In +order to remedy the situation, Vertiz, the Governor of Buenos Aires, +crossed from Buenos Aires to Montevideo, from which city he sallied +out northwards with an army of four thousand men. Meeting with the +Portuguese forces in the neighbourhood of the Santa Tecla range, he +routed them and pursued them as far as the River Yacuy, depriving them +of the lands they had usurped. + +On the return of Vertiz to Buenos Aires, Portuguese aggression burst +forth once again. Advancing from the east this time, they were +repulsed in an attack on the town of San Pedro; but in 1776, returning +with an army of two thousand men, they captured the place and +possessed themselves of the district. The inevitable counter-stroke on +the part of the Spaniards was to follow. Indeed, the scale of the +struggle waxed steadily with the growth of the respective countries. +Brazil was already the seat of a viceroyalty, and immediately after +this last invasion the provinces of the River Plate were raised to the +same status. Ceballos, then on a visit to Spain, was created first +Viceroy, and was dispatched from Cadiz with a powerful fleet and with +over nine thousand troops to avenge the incursion. + +[Illustration: RUINED COLONIA.] + +[Illustration: ARTIGAS' MONUMENT. +To face p. 52.] + +With such forces as these at his disposal the task of Ceballos was +an easy one. The Island of Santa Catalina was captured without a blow, +and that bone of contention, Colonia, surrendered perforce after a few +days of siege. Above its walls for the fifth time the flag of Spain +was hoisted afresh. On this occasion the ill-omened place was destined +to pay for the memories of the past, and its walls suffered in place +of the garrison. In order to remove temptation from the minds of the +northern enemy, Ceballos razed the elaborate fortifications to the +ground and destroyed the more pretentious houses, amongst these being +some of the best architectural specimens of the River Plate. + +Having effected this, Ceballos was passing northwards with the +intention of bringing back the Rio Grande Province once more within +the fold of Buenos Aires, when his march was stopped by the news of +another of those treaties between the mother-countries that seemed to +materialise with unfailing regularity at moments so ill-timed for the +interests of the Spanish colonies. By the terms of this Spain was left +with the mines of Colonia, while the Island of Santa Catalina and the +greater part of Rio Grande were ceded definitely to Portugal. + +After this ensued an exceptionally lengthy era of peace, which was +marked by the immigration of many families from Galicia and from the +Canary Islands, and by the foundation of numerous towns, amongst these +latter Canelones, Piedras, Rosario, Mercedes, Pando, Santa Lucia, San +José, and Minas. As to the capital itself, by the year 1788 Montevideo +had become a fairly important place, and could count a population of +6,695 Spaniards, 1,386 negro slaves, 562 liberated negroes, and 715 +half-castes and Indians. A few years later the population was much +augmented by the introduction of important numbers of negro slaves, a +traffic that continued intermittently until 1825, when its +continuance was prohibited by law. + +At the end of the century an industry was initiated that might have +led to important commercial results but for the action of the Spanish +home authorities. The waters off the coast of Maldonado had long been +famed as a whaling-ground, and at this period permission was given to +the Englishmen engaged in the traffic to found establishments both at +this place and at Punta de la Ballena. The result was a rapid but +fleeting prosperity at both these points, since after a while the +attitude of the Court of Spain changed. Fearful of the influence of +the English upon the Uruguayans, the authorities offered to the new +colonists the option of becoming Roman Catholics and of swearing +allegiance to the King of Spain, or of abandoning the settlement. The +latter alternative was chosen by the whalers, and Maldonado and Punta +de la Ballena, in consequence, sank back into the lethargy of +industrial torpor. The instance is only one of the many in which the +mother-country satisfied its conscience at the expense of its colony. + + * * * * * + +A corps of _Blandengues_, or Lancers, was formed in 1797, whose +duties, beyond their military performances, were varied to a degree. +Thus, in addition to the occasional brushes with the Indians that fell +to their lot, they were employed as excise officials against the +smugglers, as escorts of high officials, as ordinary police, and as +official messengers. The corps was composed of picked men, and in its +ranks served José Gervasio Artigas and José Rondeau, both bearers of +names that were destined to become famous in Uruguayan history. + +This body of cavalry was destined to be employed on active service +very soon after its formation. In 1801 the Portuguese became active +once more, and the first year of the new century was marked by their +occupation of land in the north-west of the Banda Oriental. After +various actions, Rondeau, with a force of Blandengues and dragoons, +defeated the invaders and won back the greater part of the lost +territory. + +In 1806 occurred the first of the British invasions which, although +materially fruitless in the end so far as our own country was +concerned, were destined to influence the minds of the colonials and +the future of the River Plate Provinces to a greater extent than is +generally realised. The circumstances of the invasion that won to the +British Crown for a very short while not only Montevideo, Maldonado, +Colonia, and numerous lesser Uruguayan towns, but Buenos Aires in +addition, afford bitter reading. Thanks to the colossal incapacity--to +give his conduct no harder name--of the British Commander-in-Chief, +General Whitlocke, the last troops of the British army of occupation +had sailed away northwards from Montevideo by the beginning of +September, 1807. + +Although the matter ended for the British with the departure of the +troops from the River Plate, the aftermath of the event took very +definite shape in the Spanish colonies themselves. Not only had the +inhabitants of the provinces learned their own power, but--more +especially in the case of Montevideo--the seeds of commercial liberty +had been sown amongst the local merchants and traders by the English +men of business who had descended upon the place beneath the +protection of the army. That the final leave-taking between the +English and the Uruguayans should have been accompanied by actual +cordiality and regrets is surely an astonishing circumstance that +affords great credit to both sides. There can be no doubt, however, +that this mutual esteem was in the first place fostered by an +appreciation on the part of the residents of British laws and methods +of trading. + +Whether the germs thus left behind would have fructified so rapidly +but for the chaotic condition of the mother-country is doubtful. As it +was, scarcely had the smoke of these actions cleared away when it +became necessary for the patriots of the River Plate Province to look +once again to their primings in view of still more vital occurrences. + + * * * * * + +I do not propose to tell here the full story of the rebellion of the +River Plate Provinces and of the revolution that ended in the complete +overthrow of Spanish power in South America, since I have already +roughly sketched these events elsewhere. So far as the main events are +concerned, the transition from the colonial stage to the condition of +independence was slower in the Banda Oriental than was the process +upon the eastern bank of the great river. In Julio of 1810, when the +Junta of Buenos Aires had already established itself to cast off the +yoke of Spain, Montevideo still remained faithful to the +mother-country, and rejected the advances of the Argentines. + +Thus at the beginning of 1811 Montevideo found itself, if only for a +short while, the seat of the viceroyalty of the La Plata Provinces, +and from that point of vantage Elio, the Viceroy, declared war upon +Buenos Aires. Almost immediately, however, the spirit of independence +became manifest in Uruguay itself, and it is at this juncture that +occurs the name that has perhaps stamped itself most deeply of all +upon the history of the Banda Oriental. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +HISTORY--_continued_ + + The advent of Artigas--First revolutionary movements in + Uruguay--The appointment of leaders--First successes of the + Uruguayans--The germs of future jealousies--Montevideo besieged + by the patriot forces--An incident of the investment--Spain + appeals to Portugal for assistance--Invasion of Uruguay by the + latter--The Buenos Aires Government concludes a treaty with the + Spanish Viceroy--Raising of the siege of Montevideo--Position of + Uruguay--Discontent of the Orientales--The exodus of the + nation--Incidents of emigration to the Argentine + shore--Montevideo in Spanish hands--The country overrun by + Portuguese--Buenos Aires effects a treaty with the + latter--Resumption of the campaign against the + Spaniards--Disputes between the Argentine and Uruguayan + leaders--Montevideo again besieged--Some battle + incidents--Artigas reappears on the scene--Drastic measures + towards an ally--A national Congress convened--Oriental deputies + rebuffed by Buenos Aires--Artigas withdraws from the siege of + Montevideo--Price set upon his head--War declared between Uruguay + and Buenos Aires--The Argentine littoral provinces adhere to + Artigas--Fall of Montevideo. + + +The personality of Artigas, the central figure of the Uruguayan +revolutionary era, is fully described in a later chapter. It is +necessary here, therefore, merely to give the record of historical +occurrences, without laying stress on the individuality of the +Oriental leader, a matter that is not easy of accomplishment, since +the figure of Artigas seems to have dominated the field of action in +whatever direction it lay. + +Shortly after the outbreak of the revolution Artigas, who at the time +was in the Spanish service, joined the patriot ranks after a violent +quarrel with his brigadier. The Oriental fled across the river to +Buenos Aires. Here he received a warm welcome, and was supplied with +armed men and financial aid in order to foment the movement in his +native country. Beyond this he received the official rank of +lieutenant-colonel in the Army of Independence. + +In the meanwhile the first stirrings of the war that was to come had +already shaken Uruguay. With its capital, Montevideo, now the seat of +the viceroyalty, the small province had remained more or less +quiescent, lying, as it were, directly beneath the eye of Imperial +Spain itself. But the awakening, when it occurred, was followed by a +strenuous outbreak of activity. The first important rising took place +at Paysandú, on the banks of the Uruguay River. This was crushed by +the aid of the Spanish war vessels that lay in the stream. But the +inhabitants, not in the least discouraged by this first check, rose +again in greater numbers than before. A body of one hundred gauchos, +ill-armed as it was, captured the town of Mercedes, and then, with +augmented forces, marched on Soriano, which surrendered to them. + +This success was the signal for a general rising throughout the +country. At the beginning of 1811 the Spanish garrison found +themselves in the midst of a definitely hostile population. From one +frontier to another bodies of men were gathering together, forging +weapons from agricultural tools, and arming themselves as best they +could in order that they might take their share in the struggle for +liberation that was already in active being. In March the towns of +Maldonado, San Carlos, and Minas rose, and the country just to the +east of Montevideo itself threw off the Spanish authority and came +into possession of the insurrectionist companies. + +On the 11th of April, 1811, Artigas returned to Uruguay in command of +150 men of the regiment of Patricios, and disembarked in the +neighbourhood of that hub of all strife, Colonia. Here he was welcomed +by a great number of armed countryfolk, who acclaimed him as chief of +the Orientales. The movement now fairly under way, he established his +headquarters at Mercedes. In the meanwhile the germ of future +combinations had already been created by the appointment on the part +of the Buenos Aires patriots of Rondeau as commander of the +Uruguayans. Belgrano, first named for the post, had, disgraced, been +deprived of it since his defeat by the Paraguayans. + +Artigas's first collision with the royal forces occurred at Paso del +Rey, the Spanish army being completely defeated. Reinforced by a +second victorious column, under Benavidez, the Uruguayans followed up +the retreating regulars, and forced them to surrender. + +Artigas, the _Jefe de los Orientales_, had now at his disposal a force +of over a thousand men. Meeting at Las Piedras with a royalist army of +1,230 men, the valour of the new levies was soon put to the test. +Although the Spaniards possessed the advantage of artillery, they were +in the end, after a desperate and prolonged fight that endured for +half a dozen hours, defeated and forced to surrender. + +The doings of the patriotic force came as a blow to the Spanish +authorities at Montevideo. Urged by the first tremblings of the +viceregal throne beneath him, Elio cast about him for an inducement to +turn Artigas from his victorious course. To this end he sent +messengers offering the chieftain a heavy monetary bribe to desert the +patriot cause, and to take service again in the royalist cause. +Whether any offering of any kind would have tempted Artigas is +doubtful. But in any case the tender was eloquent of Elio's want of +acquaintance with the Gaucho temperament, to which the possession of +mere cash constitutes a matter of utter indifference. As it was, +Artigas treated the offer with angry contempt. + +The hour of the patriot leader's triumph was not without its sting. +The battle of Las Piedras had won him the rank of colonel in the +revolutionary forces, it is true; but Belgrano, after Suipacha, had +risen to that of a general. And, although both the Buenos Aires +Government and the official _Gazette_, using the soft soap of courtesy +titles, referred continuously to Artigas by the honorary term of +"General," the bitterness remained to give rise to future strife. + +Three days after his victory Artigas marched to Montevideo, and laid +siege to the headquarters itself of the Spanish régime. As a +preliminary to the operation an exchange of prisoners, wounded and +whole, was effected. Artigas then formally demanded the surrender of +the garrison; Elio responded by various sorties, all of which were +repulsed. The beginning of the siege was marked by a dramatic episode. +Suspecting the revolutionary sympathies of some Franciscan monks +domiciled in Montevideo, Elio decided to expel these from the city. +The Franciscans were led through the streets with the utmost silence +at the dead of night. Arrived at the gates, the officer in charge of +the escort pointed with his sword at some sparks of light that +twinkled faintly in the distance. "Go you with the butchers!" he +commanded, and the priests passed out silently into the darkness to +join the forces of Artigas. Their influence was doubtless exhilarating +to the patriot cause, but there is no evidence to show that it was +employed in the cause of mercy. A few days later forty Uruguayan +families suffered a similar fate. + +In the meanwhile Benavidez had laid siege to Colonia, the garrison of +which, after a month's resistance, escaped by river to Montevideo. It +was upon this latter place that the fortune of the Spanish dominion +now hung. The scale of warfare was increasing in proportion to the +importance of the issue. Shortly after the arrival of the +reinforcements supplied by the Royalist fugitives from Colonia, +Rondeau, in command of the Argentine troops, arrived to take charge of +the attacking force, that now amounted to four thousand men. Artigas, +now one amongst many, dropped in rank from commander to leader of +horse. + +Rondeau had contrived to drag two heavy guns to the spot, and with +these he opened fire upon Montevideo. Galled by a continuous +bombardment, Elio took a more desperate step than was justified even +by his situation. Carlota, the Queen of Portugal and the sister of +Ferdinand VII. of Spain, had been established in Rio de Janeiro since +the invasion of the peninsula by the Napoleonic armies. To her the +Viceroy, seeing the last foothold of power slipping from beneath him, +sent an urgent message for assistance. + +Ere the response to this appeal became evident the condition of the +beleagured town had changed. Discouraged by the serious defeat at +Huaqui of the army of Peru, the revolutionary leaders of Buenos Aires +were already contemplating a retirement from before Montevideo, when +the blow engineered by Elio took effect. A swarm of Portuguese, under +command of General Diego de Souza, entered the Banda Oriental from the +north with the purpose of overrunning the country. The Buenos Aires +Government, appalled by the new turn that affairs had taken, made the +utmost haste to conclude an armistice with Elio. By the terms of the +treaty the patriot forces were to retire from Montevideo, and Spanish +authority was to be recognised throughout Uruguay in exchange for the +return of Souza's forces to Brazil. Thus Elio's unscrupulous move had +succeeded for the time being, and the first siege of Montevideo came +to an end. A month after its conclusion Elio retired to Spain. The +command he had left was now no longer worthy of the highest rank, and +the departed Viceroy was succeeded by Vigodet in the minor capacity of +Captain-General. + +Artigas had from the first bitterly opposed this treaty, by the terms +of which the Orientales were to be left at the mercy of the Royalists. +That he had right upon his side from his own point of view is +undeniable, although it is difficult to see by what other means the +Buenos Aires Government, caught between the Spaniards and the +Brazilians, could have extricated themselves from their dilemma. The +treaty once concluded, however, Artigas initiated a move that in +itself proved the greatness of the man. + +A general assembly of the patriotic Oriental families was sounded. +Obedient to the call, they mustered in numbers that amounted to over +thirteen thousand men, women, and children. Then followed the exodus, +ordained by the stress of events, of which Artigas was the human +instrument. Escorted by three thousand soldiers, the march of the +families began. Carts filled with women and children, herds of cattle, +troops of horses, companies of pack-mules, to say nothing of the +riders themselves--the tragic procession toiled its long length +northwards through the summer dust clouds struck up by the hoofs and +feet from the crude earth roads. Mingled with the slowly advancing +ranks, and lending still greater variety to the whole, went four +hundred faithful Charrúa Indians, armed with bolas and spears. + +Over the rolling hills of Uruguay struggled the human thread of +emigrants. Death waited on the column in the shape of heat and +hardship. But, though many children and many aged folk fell by the +way, the great majority won through in safety to Salto, on the banks +of the Uruguay; crossed the great river in boats, and took up their +abode on the Argentine shore, awaiting with anxiety the hour that +might permit their return to their native land. + +In the meantime matters were passing from bad to worse in Uruguay. +Once within its frontiers, the temptations of the promised land +overcame any scruple on the part of the Portuguese concerning a too +rigid adherence to the terms of the treaty. Under the convenient +pretext of pacifying an already deserted country, Souza's army overran +the smiling Campo, capturing towns and plundering where they might. +The Spanish royalists, for their part, remained passive, and the sole +opposition with which the Portuguese armies had to count was that +rendered by the forces of Artigas, sent by him across the river. But, +although they won a victory or two, the slender patriot bands were +unable to stem the tide of invasion to any appreciable degree. + +It is a little curious to remark what an endless wealth of +complications appear to have attended every political move at this +period. In this particular instance the introduction of a new element +was productive of unexpected results. Thus, when the Buenos Aires +Government, realising the gravity of the situation, proposed to send +reinforcements to the assistance of Artigas, the move was checked by +Elio, the Spanish commander, who, forgetful of the ties of blood, +threatened to join cause with the Portuguese in the event of any such +intervention. As an appropriate climax to the chaotic situation, the +Buenos Aires powers turned to Paraguay for assistance. The latter, +inclined to assent, began negotiation with Artigas direct, and, since +the Argentine Government resented this slight upon its authority, and +the negotiations themselves failed to fructify, the only outcome of +importance was an increase in the mutual jealousies that already +existed between Artigas and the Argentines. + +Shortly after this, however, the tables were turned upon the +Spaniards. An able stroke of diplomacy on the part of the famous +Argentine, Belgrano, supported by British influence, resulted in a +treaty with the Portuguese. Thus the Royalists, hoist by a second +edition of their own petard, lay without allies at the mercy of the +patriot forces. + +Preparations for a fresh siege of Montevideo were at once begun. Don +Manuel Sarratea, appointed Commander-in-Chief of the Argentine Army, +marched to the Entre Rios shore to join his columns with those of +Artigas. The inevitable jealousies between the Argentine and Oriental +leaders came to a head almost immediately. Apart from a deep personal +antagonism that separated the pair, a yet more potent reason made the +rupture inevitable. Sarratea, representing the triumvirate of Buenos +Aires, was determined to deal with Uruguay as a province of the new +Republic of Argentina. Artigas, on the other hand, although willing to +acknowledge the authority at Buenos Aires from a federal point of +view, insisted upon the independence of the State. + +It was in these circumstances that Sarratea descended upon Artigas's +mixed camp of soldiers and Uruguayan emigrant families upon the banks +of the Uruguay. The results of the meeting were soon evident. Artigas, +complaining bitterly that Sarratea had seduced from his allegiance +not only his troops but the civilian elements of the settlement, +resigned his colonelcy, and separated his division from the Argentine +forces. The troops now remaining to him numbered rather less than a +thousand men, under the command of Otorgués, Rivera, and Manuel +Artigas. + +In the meanwhile Sarratea, anxious that the credit for the capture of +Montevideo should fall to his lot, had dispatched a force under +Rondeau to lay siege once again to the town of contention that +represented the headquarters of the Royalists. Arriving at the spot, +he found that his task had already been forestalled to a certain +extent by an independent Oriental, José Eugenio Culta. The latter +_caudillo_, spurred onwards by the numerous examples of reckless +initiative offered by the period, had collected a band of three +hundred Gauchos. With these kindred spirits he was busily occupied in +harassing the garrison to no little purpose. + +With the arrival of Rondeau, in October of 1812, the siege of the +devoted city began on an imposing scale, the army employed for the +purpose soon amounting to two thousand men. Destined to drag out its +length for almost two years, the first few months of the siege were +marked by two events of importance. Vigodet, having received +reinforcements from Spain, made a vigorous sally on the last day of +the year. At early dawn sixteen hundred men burst out from the gates +of the city, surprising and routing the besieging forces as they went, +until they won the summit of the Cerrito hill itself, the headquarters +of the American forces. With the yellow and red of Spain flaunting +from this the Royalists forgot all but their success, and expended +their energies in a jubilation that cost them dear. For Rondeau, +gathering together his fugitive troops with an amazing rapidity, fell +like a thunderbolt upon the cheering crowd, whose joyful clamour +turned to groans and death gasps as the stricken mass went reeling +back into the city. + +An event of still greater importance occurred during the first month +of the following year. Sarratea himself then journeyed to the camp +before Montevideo. But he had company behind that he could not have +failed to regard with considerable unease. Notwithstanding his late +check, Artigas still remained a power to be reckoned with. Indeed, his +vitality had risen to the occasion; he had flung out his summons far +and wide, and his power was now infinitely greater than before. Thus, +when Sarratea set out for Montevideo, Artigas followed grimly in his +wake, having now no mean instrument by means of which to assert his +rights--an army of five thousand men. + +Arriving on the heels of his enemy at the point of hostilities, +Artigas was not slow to act. Taking full measure of his advantage, he +sent peremptorily to Rondeau, demanding the immediate dismissal of +Sarratea from his office of Commander-in-Chief. The order thus given +to a subordinate to deal with his superior was quite in accordance +with the spirit of the times. + +As Rondeau, however, did not immediately comply, Artigas took a very +simple measure by which to prove that he did not intend to ask in +vain. His Gauchos dashed full gallop into Sarratea's camp, and drove +off with them all the horses that they found within the establishment. +Seeing that a Gaucho army, unhorsed, is as a collection of fish on dry +land, the matter was definitely settled by the act. Sarratea retired +with the best grace he could muster to Buenos Aires, Rondeau remained +in command, and the Oriental and Argentine leaders sat down to +continue the investment of Montevideo, one jealous eye of each upon +his fellow-chief, the other fixed more casually upon the beleaguered +town. + +During the comparative lull in active hostilities that followed +Artigas busied himself in the affairs of the State that he was +determined to see fully created. To this end he convened a national +Congress of Uruguayans, of which he was, as a matter of course, +elected President, in addition to being created Military Governor of +the country. One of the first acts of the new Congress was to +advertise its existence by the mission of deputies to the Junta at +Buenos Aires. But, the Junta refusing to recognise either an +independent Uruguay or its agents, the deputies returned home to +spread the tale of the rebuff, and to increase the bitterness that +already lay so deep between the Buenos Aires authorities and Artigas. + +In January, 1814, the long series of incessant disputes was brought +abruptly to a head by Artigas. In the dead of night he struck his hide +tents, mounted his men, and his entire force rode away over the hills, +leaving Rondeau and his army to continue the siege of Montevideo as +best they might. The Buenos Aires authorities, furious at the +defection, placed a price upon Artigas's head; and the Gaucho leader, +equally incensed at this personal ultimatum, retaliated by declaring +open war upon the Junta. Storming against the Buenos Airens, this born +leader of men took his body--valued by his enemies at six thousand +pesos, alive or dead--along the coast of the great river. So +successful were his denunciations and the missions of his ambassadors +that not only the littoral provinces of Entre Rios, Corrientes, and +Santa Fé came spontaneously to his standard, but the comparatively +remote province of Córdoba, following the example of the rest, +proffered its allegiance. + +It was not long ere the news of the rupture reached the ears of +Vigodet in Montevideo. Thinking to derive profit from the occasion, he +made a final appeal to throw in his lot with the royal forces. The +Gaucho leader in his refusal is stated to have said that "with the +Porteños [Buenos Airens] there was always time for reconciliation; +with the Spaniards, never!" That the time for the former consummation +was not yet ripe was evidenced by the almost immediate outbreak of +active hostilities between the rival South American parties. + +In the meanwhile Montevideo was giving out the last gasp of its +imperial existence. The Spanish fleet that had assisted in its defence +had been destroyed by Admiral Brown, the famous Irishman in Argentine +service. Hunger and the lack of general necessaries both of livelihood +and of war completed the work of arms. On the 20th June, 1814, +Montevideo, after suffering intense privations, capitulated, and with +its fall passed for ever the last vestige of Spanish power from the +provinces of the River Plate. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +HISTORY--_continued_ + + Conclusion of Spanish rule--Situation of the victors--Rival + claims--Alvear defeats a Uruguayan force--Montevideo remains in + possession of Buenos Aires--Rural Uruguay supports + Artigas--Alliance of the Argentine littoral provinces with the + Orientales--Some intrigues and battles--Success of the + Uruguayans--Departure from Montevideo of the Buenos Aires + garrison--The Uruguayans enter into possession of their + capital--Some crude methods of government--Trials of the + inhabitants--Growth of Artigas's power--The Buenos Aires + directors undertake a propitiatory measure--A grim human + offering--Attitude of the Uruguayan Protector--Negotiations and + their failure--The civil progress of Uruguay--Formation of + departments--The Portuguese invade the country once + again--Condition of the inhabitants--Fierce resistance to the + invaders--A campaign against heavy odds--The Portuguese army + enters Montevideo--War continued by the provinces--Invasion of + Brazil by the Oriental forces--Crushing defeats suffered by the + army of invasion--Final struggles--The flight of Artigas--Uruguay + passes under Portuguese rule. + + +The defeated eagle was fluttering slowly homeward with broken wing. +But its departure did not leave the battlefield empty. It was the turn +now of the victorious hawks to rend each other. Alvear had arrived +from Buenos Aires, and was now in charge of the newly won city. +Scarcely had he begun his work of organisation, however, when +Otorgues, Artigas's chief lieutenant, appeared at Las Piedras in the +neighbourhood of the capital, and in the name of his leader demanded +that the place should be handed over to the Uruguayans. Alvear's +answer was unexpected and to the point. Marching his army through the +darkness, he fell upon Otorgues's forces in the middle of the night, +shattering them completely. + +Thus the Buenos Aires authorities remained for the time being masters +of the city. As for their sway, the Montevideans broke out into bitter +complaints that the Spanish dominion had been liberal and lenient by +comparison. However this may have been, it is certain that those +families noted for their allegiance to Artigas were subjected to +severe penalties and restrictions. + +Nevertheless the situation of the advocates of centralisation had now +become critical. By a curious irony of fate the position of the Junta +was exactly identical with that formerly held by the Spaniards. +Montevideo lay in its power; but the remainder of the Banda Oriental +as well as the Argentine provinces of Entre Rios, Correntes, and Santa +Fé were completely subject to Artigas. Alive to the growing power of +the Protector, the Buenos Aires Government opened negotiations for a +treaty, flinging out in the first place an olive-branch in the shape +of a degree not only relieving the head of the Gaucho leader of the +dollars set upon it, but in addition proclaiming him to the world as +_buen servidor de la patria_--"a worthy servant of the country." A +meeting at Montevideo resulted in the evacuation of Montevideo on the +part of nearly the entire Buenos Aires garrison. These departed by +river; but, instead of returning to Buenos Aires, the troops landed at +Colonia, marched inland to Minas, fell upon Otorgues, whose camp lay +in that district, and completely routed the force of the unsuspecting +lieutenant. + +This achieved, the victorious army set out in search of Rivera, +another of Artigas's commanders, who had recently surprised and +destroyed a Buenos Aires column. In this latter leader, however, +Dorrego, the Junta general, met with more than his match, and, +suffering many casualties, was forced to retire to Colonia. Sallying +out from here with reinforcements a little later, he was utterly +defeated, and fled in haste to Corrientes, accompanied by some score +of men who formed the sole remnant of his entire army. + +Just as the fall of Montevideo crowned the doom of the Spanish power, +so this final disaster marked the end of the occupation of the town by +the Buenos Aires Government. A little more than a month after the +event the troops of the garrison sailed across to Buenos Aires. The +following day Fernando Otorgues entered the place at the head of his +troops. The advent of the new Military Governor was hailed with +enthusiasm by the inhabitants. The unfurling of Artigas's blue and +white standard with its red bar was answered by illuminations and +fireworks by the citizens. + +For the first time in its history the capital of Uruguay lay beneath +the command of a Uruguayan. By one of the first acts of the new régime +a national coat of arms was instituted, and a flaming proclamation +promised nothing short of the millennium. All this would have been +very well had it not been necessary for this new benignity to be put +immediately to the test. It then became evident to the depressed +Montevideans that with each change of rulers their load of evils had +increased. With his talents essentially confined to the field of +battle, there was probably no man in Uruguay who possessed less of the +lamb in his disposition than Otorgues. The temperaments of his +subordinates, reckless at the best of times, had been further excited +by merciless warfare. Thus the inhabitants, at the mercy of the +utterly licentious Gaucho soldiers, continued to groan for relief in +vain. + +Artigas himself had not approached the city. From points of vantage +along the great river system he had ceaselessly harassed the forces of +the Junta, until Alvear, its director, goaded to exasperation, +collected into an army every soldier that he could spare, and, +determined to put all to the hazard, sent the imposing expedition +against the Gaucho leader. The adventure involved complete disaster to +the director. Ere it had passed the frontiers of Buenos Aires +Province, the army, encouraged by Artigas, revolted, and its chief, +Colonel Alvarez Thomas, returned to Buenos Aires to depose Alvear, +with whose office he invested himself. + +The power of the famous Oriental chief had now reached its zenith. The +new director, Alvarez Thomas, acutely conscious of the Protector's +power, thought of nothing beyond conciliation. Among the measures +employed was one that redounded very little to his credit. Not +satisfied with the public burning of the various proclamations hostile +to the _Caudillo_, he bethought himself of a stake that should win for +ever the regard of Artigas. To this end he arrested the seven chief +friends of Alvear, and sent them as a combined sacrifice and +peace-offering to Artigas's encampment. As a specimen of grim and +sycophantic courtesy the callousness of the offering of seven bodies +can scarcely have been exceeded in the world's history. But Artigas, +contrary to the Director's expectation, failed to make the intended +use of the gifts. Indeed, he treated them with no little +consideration, and sent them back whence they came, bidding them tell +Thomas that the General Artigas was no executioner. + +The next move was of the legitimately political order. The voluntary +acknowledgment of the independence of Uruguay was offered in exchange +for the abandonment of the protectorate over the provinces of Entre +Rios, Santa Fé, Córdoba, and Corrientes. This was also refused by +Artigas, who maintained that the provinces of the River Plate should, +though self-governing, be indissolubly linked. + +During all this time Artigas remained at his encampment at Hervidero +on the banks of the Uruguay River. From thence by a system of +organisation that, though crude, was marvellously effective, he +manipulated the affairs of the extensive region under his command, +jealously watching the moves of doubtful friends and open enemies, and +keeping his armed bands of remorseless Gauchos ceaselessly on the +alert. + +This continual state of minor warfare, however, did not altogether +exclude the attention to civil matters. In addition to some tentative +measures of administration in Córdoba and the Argentine littoral +provinces, Uruguay was partitioned off into six departments, to each +of which was allotted its Cabildo and general mechanism of government. +These attempts naturally represented nothing more than a drop of +progress in the ocean of chaos; but there is no reason to doubt that +Artigas undertook the new and peaceable campaign with no little +measure of whole-heartedness. In any case the new era proved as +fleeting as any of its predecessors. It was the turn of the Portuguese +once again to set in motion the wheel of fate upon which the destinies +of Uruguay were revolving with such giddy rapidity. + +It was in 1816 that the Portuguese invaded Uruguay for the second time +since the natives of the land had started on their campaign of +self-government. Their armies marched south from Brazil with the +ostensible object of putting an end to the anarchy that they alleged +was rampant under the rule of Artigas. The condition of the country +was undoubtedly lamentable. Harassed by hordes of marauding soldiery +or acknowledged bandits, the safety of lives and homes without the +more immediate range of Artigas's influence was even more precarious +than had been the case during the recent period of wild turmoil. + +It is true that in the districts bordering on the headquarters of the +Gaucho chief at Hervidero matters were very different. Indeed, so +severe was the discipline imposed by the Caudillo, and so terrible the +penalties following on theft, that it is said that beneath his iron +rule a purse of gold might have been left on the public highway with +as little chance of its removal as though it lay within the vaults of +a bank. + +But notwithstanding the disorder that prevailed in so many quarters, +the disinterestedness of the motives that caused the Portuguese +intervention need not be taken too seriously. There can be no doubt +that the real object of the invasion was territorial possession rather +than the amelioration of a state of turbulence that concerned Brazil +to a very minor degree. To this end an imposing army of twelve +thousand men marched southwards, striking Uruguay at the central point +of its northern frontier. + +Artigas braced himself for a desperate struggle, the final result of +which could scarcely be doubtful. In order to distract the attention +of the advancing army he became in turn the invader, and sent a force +northwards to invade the Misiones territory that, lost to the Banda +Oriental, now formed part of Brazil. The manoeuvre, though adroit, was +rendered futile by the preponderance of the foreign troops. In a short +while the scene of the conflict was transferred to the home country. +Here the entire collection of Artigas's mixed forces made a stand. Men +of pure Spanish descent, Gauchos, Indians, negroes, and a sprinkling +of emigrant foreigners beyond--all these fought with a desperation +that was in the first place rewarded by several victories. No human +effort, however, could stave off the final result. Andresito, a famous +Indian leader, Rivera, Latorre, and Artigas himself were in turn +defeated, and in February of 1817 Lecor, at the head of the Portuguese +army, entered Montevideo in triumph. + +The fall of the capital did not end the war. Throughout the provinces +the resistance continued unabated. On the water, too, the Uruguayans +asserted themselves with no little success, and it is amazing to read +that one or two of their privateers with the utmost hardihood sailed +across the ocean to the coasts of Portugal itself, making several +captures within sight of the Iberian cliffs. Indeed, that the +authority of Artigas was still recognised to a certain degree is +proved by a treaty between his Government and Great Britain that was +concluded several months after the loss of Montevideo. + +It was not long, however, ere the inevitable complications arose to +render the situation yet more hopeless. The perennial disputes with +Buenos Aires became embittered to such a degree that Artigas, in +sublime disregard of the Portuguese forces already in the country, +declared war against the Directorate. The primary outcome of this was +the defection of several of his leaders, who, as a matter of fact, +foreseeing the reckless declaration, had espoused the Buenos Aires +cause just previous to its publication. + +The sole hope of Artigas now lay in the provinces of Entre Rios and +Corrientes. Even here had occurred a wavering that had necessitated a +crushing by force ere a return to allegiance had been brought about. +With these and the remaining Oriental forces he continued the +struggle. But the tide of his fortune had turned. The beginning of the +year 1818 witnessed the capture of two of his foremost lieutenants, +Otorgues and Lavalleja, who were sent by the Portuguese to an island +in the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. As a last effort, Artigas, daring the +aggressive even at this stage, hurled his intrepid Gauchos and +Misiones Indians once more over the frontier into Brazilian territory +itself. A brilliant victory was followed by the inevitable retreat in +the face of immensely superior forces. At Tacuarembo, in the north of +the Banda Oriental, fell the blow that virtually ended the campaign. +Here Artigas's army, under the command of Latorre, was surprised and +completely routed with a loss that left the force non-existent for +practical purposes. Shortly after this Rivera surrendered to the +Portuguese, and with his submission went the last hope of success. + +Artigas crossed the River Uruguay, and took up a position in Entre +Rios. The hour of his doom had struck; but even then, with his forces +shattered and crushed, he refused to bow to the inevitable. With +extraordinary doggedness he scoured Entre Rios, Corrientes, and +Misiones in an endeavour to sweep up the remaining few that the +battles had spared, and yet once again to lead them against the +Portuguese. But on this occasion there was no response. Sullen and +despairing, the majority of the remnant turned from him, and in the +end his officer Ramirez, Governor of Entre Rios, threw off his +allegiance, and came with an expedition to expel him from the country. + +Devoting themselves to this narrowed campaign, the two Gaucho leaders +assailed each other with fury. Victory in the first instance lay with +Artigas, despite his diminished following. Ramirez, however, received +reinforcements from the Buenos Aires authorities, who had thrown the +weight of their influence against their old enemy. It was against the +allied forces that Artigas fought his last battle. When it was evident +even to his indomitable spirit that all hope was at an end he marched +northwards with a couple of hundred troops who remained faithful in +the hour of adversity to the once all-powerful Protector. + +At Candelaria he crossed the Paraná, and sought the hospitality of +Gaspar Rodriguez Francia, the dreaded Dictator of Paraguay. The latter +first of all imprisoned the fugitive--probably more from force of +habit than from any other reason, since Francia was accustomed to fill +his dungeons as lightly as a fishwife her basket with herrings. + +After a very short period of incarceration, however, the autocrat came +to a definite determination regarding his attitude towards the +fugitive who had sought his protection. Releasing him, he treated him +with a certain degree of liberality as well as with respect. Artigas +was allotted a humble dwelling in the township of Curuguaty, far to +the north of Asuncion, and in addition he was granted a moderate +pension upon which to live. Here the old warrior, enjoying the deep +regard of his neighbours, ended his days in peace, while the tortured +Uruguay was incorporated with Brazil and passed under Portuguese +rule. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +ARTIGAS + + The human product of a turbulent era--Historical verdicts + disagree--Opinions of Uruguayan and foreign + historians--High-flown tribute--The cleansing of Artigas's + fame--Prejudices of some local accounts--Uruguay at the time of + Artigas's birth--Surroundings of his youth--Smuggling as a + profession--Growth of his influence--His name becomes a household + word--Artigas enters the Spanish service--The corps of + Blandengues--Efficiency and promotion--Quarrel with the Spanish + General--Artigas throws in his lot with the patriot forces--His + success as a leader of men--Rank accorded him--Jealousy between + Artigas and the Buenos Aires generals--Conflicting ambitions--The + Portuguese invasion--Artigas leads the Oriental nation to the + Argentine shore--The encampment at Ayui--Scarcity of arms and + provisions--Battles with the Portuguese--The subalterns of + Artigas--Otorgues and Andresito--Crude governmental + procedure--Arbitrary decrees--The sentiments of Artigas--His love + of honesty--Progress of the war--Complications of the + campaign--Artigas as Protector--The encampment of + Hervidero--Revolting tales--The exaggeration of history--Artigas + refuses honour--His proclamations--Simple life of the + commander--Some contemporary accounts--The national + treasury--Final desperate struggles against the + Portuguese--Rebellion of Ramirez--Fierce battles--Extraordinary + recuperative power of the Protector--Final defeat of + Artigas--Flight to Paraguay--The Protector in retirement. + + +The name of Artigas stands for that of the national hero of Uruguay. +Within the frontiers of the River Plate countries and of Southern +Brazil no such introduction would be necessary, since in those places +have raged controversies as fierce as any of the battles in which the +old warrior took part. To the average English reader, however, his +name is necessarily unfamiliar, although it crops up now and again in +the records of travellers who visited South America during the first +quarter of the eighteenth century. + +Artigas was essentially the product of a turbulent era. Born in 1764, +he had remained comparatively obscure until forty-six years later, +when the outbreak of the South American War of Independence sent him +aloft with dramatic rapidity to a pinnacle of prominence from which he +ruled nations and armies--with a result that is yet the subject of +considerable dispute. + +Perhaps never did the memory of a man meet with more honour in his own +country, and with less favour without it. Argentine historians and +European travellers of all nationalities have included him within the +dark fold of the world's great criminals. From the mill of their +analysis Artigas emerges as a bandit, murderer, traitor, a criminal +who seized with audacity each of his thousand opportunities to outrage +the laws of morality and decency. Apart from the testimony of the +noted historians, two Swiss naturalists, Rengger and Longchamps, who +penetrated to his country and whose report should be unbiassed, speak +of him as one "whose life has been only a tissue of horrors, the great +instrument of all the calamities which for ten years fell on the +provinces of the confederation of Rio de la Plata." These convictions +are echoed by a score of other authorities. + +For the other side of the picture it is necessary to turn to the +Uruguayan writers. Their views are at least as definite and unanimous +as the others. According to one, Eduardo Muñoz Ximinez, "the austerity +of Cato, the purity of Aristides, the temperament of the Gracchi, the +nobility of Camillus, the generosity of Fabricius--these virtues, +allied to heroism and determination, have been found united within +the breast of none but Artigas." This represents but a solitary note, +typical of the great chorus of praise that goes up from Uruguay. + +Artigas, living, had little concern with compromise; dead, his spirit +seems to have infected his historians with the same dislike of +half-measures. In other respects this particular strand of history is +as flexible as all the rest. For generations the feathers of Artigas's +fame remained of undisputed black; now the active protests of the +Uruguayans have initiated a cleansing process that promises to change +the plumes to too blinding a white. Such impartial judgment as is +possible induces the persuasion that the Argentine and foreign +chroniclers, though writing in all good faith, have erred a little in +relying too much upon the testimony of men who bore bitter personal +enmity towards the Uruguayan leader. Artigas, in fact, reveals himself +from out of the cloud of conflicting authorities as an essentially +human being, swayed by the passions of the age and knowing many of its +faults, wild as the age itself, but less sordid and more picturesque, +and the author of some deeds, moreover, that, worked in the light of a +more central and populous field, might well have sent his name to +posterity with more assured honour. + +Artigas was born at a time that, by courtesy, was termed one of peace. +A treaty of the previous year had for a short while changed the open +warfare between the Spaniards and Portuguese into an unofficial series +of aggressions and frontier skirmishes. Scarcely, however, had the +future Protector of Uruguay attained to his twelfth year when the war +broke out again, thus adding fresh fuel to the ceaseless minor hatreds +and private feuds. Brought up, as one of his own apologists admits, in +an atmosphere of rapine, revenge, and violence, the early +surroundings of Artigas were sufficient to prepare him for the grim +part he was destined to play. He could, moreover, lay claim to an +especial sentimental stake in the country, since forty years before +the date of his birth his grandfather had formed one of the heads of +seven families who were sent from Buenos Aires in order to found the +town of Montevideo. + +Artigas, attained to manhood, became noted for physical prowess. As +was inevitable in such a land, his unequalled tricks of horsemanship +and feats of strength soon gave him an ascendency over the companions +of his own age. Since Artigas himself vouchsafed little information on +the subject, the details of this early career are at best vague. His +enemies assert that he turned brigand, and captained a band of +desperadoes. It is now practically certain that this was not the case, +but that he devoted himself to smuggling there is no doubt. It must be +remembered that in those days contraband was not necessarily a +commerce of reproach. Although its active agents were essentially of a +reckless type, there were others of considerable standing who were +more or less directly interested in a traffic that they held a +legitimate and profitable protest against the repressive fiscal +measures of Spain. + +It was in the sparsely populated hill country of the north that +Artigas first learned to control men and to command expeditions. Once +fairly settled to the work, unusually numerous convoys of laden horses +and mules passed stealthily southwards from Brazil through the +valleys, forests, and streams of the frontier districts, for the +daring ventures of the Uruguayan leader met with phenomenal success. +As a result his influence steadily increased among both the men of his +own race and the semi-civilised Indians of the neighbourhood. The +personality of the man with the hawk nose, blue eyes, and fair skin +possessed the rare faculty of inspiring his followers with personal +affection as well as with admiration. As the years went on his name +began to ring in every mud cabin and reed hut, and the numbers of his +adherents attained to formidable proportions. + +In the meanwhile the general disorder of the country had increased to +a pitch that demanded active measures for its repression. In 1797 the +Spanish authorities raised a special corps of Blandengues, whose +duties were fairly comprehensive. Picked men, they served as cavalry, +police, as guards against Indian raids, and as a force to repress the +smugglers. Imbued with a wholesome respect for his power, the +Montevidean Government approached Artigas by way of the line of least +resistance. The Uruguayan accepted an invitation to join the corps, +and soon proved himself its most capable and efficient officer. + +Thus we see Artigas in the blue-and-red uniform of the Blandengues, +armed with a lance that sported a steel crescent below its point, +chasing smugglers instead of being chased, arresting criminals, +fighting with intruding Brazilians, and slaying rebellious Indians +with the precautionary enthusiasm of the period. His vindication of +justice was now as thorough as had formerly been his evasion of the +fiscal laws. In 1802 a rapid series of promotion created him _Guarda +General de la Campaña_, or guardian officer general of the rural +districts. We next hear of him as taking part with his regiment +against the British invaders of the country in 1807. Then, in 1810, +began the South American War of Independence, and with its outbreak +dawned the true career of the Uruguayan popular hero. + +It was not, however, until nine months or so after the commencement of +the campaign that Artigas threw in his lot with the patriot forces. +The immediate cause was a quarrel with his superior officer, the +Spanish General Muesa. Artigas, whose spirit was not tempered to +verbal chastisement, gave back word for word, until the incensed +general threatened to send him in chains to the neighbouring island of +San Gabriel. That night the offended officer of Blandengues crossed +the broad River Plate in a small boat, was received with acclamation +by the Argentine leaders, and with their aid prepared an expedition +that should free his country from the Spaniard. The motives that +brought about this sudden adherence to the party of independence have +been much in dispute. Hostile critics assert that the change of front +was merely vindictive, and that it was the revengeful fruit of wounded +pride that sent him to the patriot ranks. His supporters declare +positively that the dispute was of importance only in so far as it +gave him reason for the long desired severance of the link that bound +him to the Spanish service. + +Be this how it may, the figure of Artigas now looms with vastly +increased bulk from the field of River Plate history. He is in command +of armies now--which is the lot of many--winning battles with them, +moreover, which is the luck of few. His official rank is that of +Colonel, but the title of General is accorded him by all alike, +whether his superiors or inferiors in grade. As for his own folk of +Uruguay, they have grown to regard him as a being of almost superhuman +power, and follow him with a devoted affection that speaks well for +the temperament of the leader. + +Indeed, it was at this period that the famous Uruguayan was first +enabled to show his true mettle. His armies knew little of the pomp of +war. The ragged companies looked up to a chief whose garb was little +more warlike and pretentious than their own. The goodwill, however, +that prevailed in the midst of the Uruguayan armies was not shared by +the leaders of the united forces. Jealousy between Artigas and the +Buenos Aires generals had already caused a breach that political +dissensions rapidly widened. Nations were in the making, and the +process was attended by an almost inevitable bitterness. Buenos Aires +urged a united republic, with its own town as the centre of +government. Artigas strongly opposed this plan, proposing in its place +a bond of self-governing provinces. Recriminations and threats were +bandied to and fro between the rival patriots while the Spaniards, +though closely besieged, yet retained Montevideo, and even while the +Portuguese were moving from Brazil to the assistance of the +monarchists. + +At length the Portuguese peril loomed sufficiently large to outweigh +every other consideration. With a view to stemming the foreign tide of +invasion, the Buenos Airens patched up a treaty with the Spanish +troops in Montevideo. The despairing measure was doubtless one of +necessity, but it aroused deep passion in the mind of the Uruguayan +leader, who protested that his country was forsaken, and given over +once again to the mercies of the Spaniards. Collecting every available +man, woman, and child, he led them to the north-west, and passed the +great exodus over the River Uruguay to a haven of safety at Ayui, upon +the Entre Rios shore. Meanwhile, Uruguay was overrun by the invading +Portuguese and by the released Spaniards, who eddied out in all +directions from Montevideo. + +Artigas was now encamped for the first time with a translated nation +and an independent army of his own. The condition of both was grimly +tragic, pathetically humorous. For fourteen months almost the only +shelter, that served for all alike, was afforded by the branches of +the trees and the boards of the carts that had brought them. As for +the army, it was composed of strangely heterogeneous elements. Honest +countryfolk rubbed shoulders with professional criminals and +cut-throats; Indians from the destroyed Jesuit missions went side by +side with fierce-faced Gauchos; while townsmen, negroes, and a few +adventurous foreigners made up the mixed gathering. + +The men were in deadly earnest, since the example of Artigas seems to +have inspired even the most depraved with a spark from his own fire. +Had it been otherwise they would undoubtedly have succumbed to the +disadvantages with which they had to contend. Arms were scarce. A +certain favoured few were possessed of muskets and swords; but the +weapon in chief use was the lance, the national arm of River Plate +folk, the point of which, here at Ayui, was usually fashioned from the +blade of shears or a knife, or from the iron of some other +agricultural instrument. Many, however, had perforce to be content +with a long knife, with the lasso and the sling--the _boleadores_--as +subsidiary weapons. Yet even these proved by no means despicable in +the hands of the men whose sole garment was the ragged remnant of a +poncho tied about the waist, and who exercised with poles in +preparation for the time when a musket should be in their hands. + +It was with the aid of an army such as this that Artigas would cross +the river to make his incursions among the hills of his native +country, and would engage Portuguese and Spaniards alike in battles +from which the desperate and motley companies of men would frequently +emerge victorious. Artigas was now assisted by numerous minor chiefs, +many of whom were of a character quite unfitted to stand the light of +day. Otorques and Andresito were the most noted of these. The methods +of the former were utterly brutal. Although the fact is contradicted, +he is credited by many with the order to a subaltern officer to "cut +the throats of two Spaniards a week in order to preserve the morale. +Failing Spaniards, take two Buenos Airens for the purpose"! + +Andresito was an Indian from the deserted Jesuit missions who +commanded a considerable force of his own race. He appears to have +interspersed his dark deeds with some evidence of better qualities and +even of a grim humour. A coarse instance of this latter is supplied +when he entered the town of Corrientes in the heyday of Artigas's +power. On this occasion the Indian troops behaved with no little +restraint towards the terrified inhabitants, and contented themselves +with levying contributions towards the clothing of the almost naked +army. This accomplished, Andresito determined to exhibit the social +side of his temperament. He organised several religious dramas, and +followed these by a ball in honour of the principal residents of the +town. These, however, failed to attend, their reluctance to dancing +with Indians overcoming their prudence. On learning the reason from +some crassly honest person, the enraged Andresito caused these too +particular folk to be mustered in the main plaza of the town. There he +obliged the men to scour the roadway, while the ladies were made to +dance with the Indian troops. + +Although no merit or subtlety can be claimed for such methods, +they at all events stand apart from the rest in their lack of +bloodthirstiness. Compared with the sentiments revealed in a +proclamation of Otorgues in taking possession of Montevideo, the +procedure at Corrientes seems innocuous and tame. One of the clauses +of this document decrees the execution within two hours of any +citizen who should speak or write in favour of any other government, +while the same fate was promised to one "who should directly or +indirectly attack the liberty of the Province"! The humour in the +employment of the word "liberty" is, of course, totally unconscious. + +Such proclamations, naturally, served purely and simply as a licence +for convenient murder. Employing lieutenants of the kind, it is +little wonder that much of the guilt of their accumulated deeds +should be undeservedly heaped upon Artigas's head. Not that the +Commander-in-Chief himself was inclined to put a sentimental value +upon human life; indeed, a delicacy on this point would be impossible +in one who had passed through the scenes of his particular calling. In +any case his hatred of robbery was deep-rooted and sincere. After the +execution of three criminals of this type, he proclaims to his people +at Ayui: "My natural aversion to all crime, especially to the horrible +one of robbery, and my desire that the army should be composed of +honourable citizens ... has moved me to satisfy justice by means of a +punishment as sad as it is effectual." A little later he makes a +similar appeal, adding, "if there be remaining amongst you one who +does not harbour sentiments of honour, patriotism, and humanity, let +him flee far from the army he dishonours"! Here we get the flowers of +the south, earnestly thrown, but alighting in too earthy a bed! The +poor army, with its impoverished, ragged loin-cloths, and with its +lassos and slings, undoubtedly valued the occasional luxury of a full +stomach at least as highly as the abstract virtues. Yet they probably +heard the words with sincere admiration, feeling an added pride in +their beloved leader who could employ such phrases. In any +case--whether as a result of punishments or proclamations--the crime +of robbery soon became rare almost to extinction within the sphere of +Artigas's influence. + +The war itself was each month growing more savage in character. Such +virtues as the Uruguayan army possessed were recognised least of all +by the Spaniards. Elio, the Viceroy, had erected a special gallows in +Montevideo for the benefit of any prisoners that might be captured, +while Vigodet, his successor, endeavoured to strike terror by measures +of pure barbarity. By his order a body of cavalry scoured the +countryside, slaying all those suspected of Artiguenian leanings, and +exposing the quartered portions of their bodies at prominent places by +the roadside. Each patriot, moreover, carried a price upon his head. +It is not to be wondered at that the Uruguayan forces made reprisals, +and that corpses replaced prisoners of war. + +A renewed campaign waged by the Buenos Aires forces against the +Spaniards was the signal for the abandonment of the settlement at +Ayui. Once again the Royalists were shut up within the walls of +Montevideo, and at the beginning of 1813 Artigas, with his men, +marched down from the north to take part in the siege. The Uruguayan +came now as an assured ruler of his own people; the Buenos Aires +commanders regarded him as a unit in a greater system. The result was +the inevitable quarrel, and a year from the inception of the +operations Artigas took the most decisive step in his career. He gave +no warning of his move. The evening before had witnessed his +particular portion of the field covered with horses and men. The next +morning saw the ground bare and deserted: Artigas and his army were +already many leagues away. + +[Illustration: MONTEVIDEO AND THE CERRO HILL.] + +[Illustration: "AFTER CATTLE." +To face p. 88.] + +From that moment Artigas became virtual king of a torn and struggling +realm. The Buenos Aires authorities, incensed at his defection, placed +a price of six thousand dollars on his head, continuing meanwhile +the siege of Montevideo. Artigas retaliated by a formal declaration of +war upon the central Government. The hostile ramifications were now +sufficiently involved to satisfy the most warlike spirit. Artigas was +fighting the Buenos Airens and Portuguese, and was only prevented from +coming to close grips with the Spaniards by the fact that the +intervening Buenos Aires armies had already taken that task upon +themselves. As it was, the influence of the national hero spread out +to the west with an amazing rapidity, passing beyond the Uruguay +River, and holding good upon the remote side of the great Paraná +stream itself. In a very short while his dominions in Argentine +territory assumed an extent four times greater than that of his native +country. The provinces of Entre Rios, Corrientes, Santa Fé, and +Córdoba welcomed his new tricolour standard with enthusiasm. + +Thus Artigas was now ruler of 350,000 square miles, with the exception +of the various odd points of vantage held by the remaining three +contending powers. + +The fall of Montevideo and the final ejection of the Spaniards from +the soil was followed by the retirement of the Buenos Aires armies to +their own country. Thus to Artigas's realm was added the necessary +complement of a capital and some seagoing ships that served as the +nucleus of a national navy. The ex-smuggler was now at the zenith of +his power. It is at this point that he affords by far the most +interesting picture, since the amazing medley of sentiments for which +his character was responsible were now given full play. Caring nothing +for pomp and ceremony, he sent Otorgues to rule Montevideo, while his +other chiefs assumed control of the various districts throughout the +provinces. He himself, true to his Gaucho upbringing, avoided all +towns, and finally settled himself in the north-west of Uruguay. On a +tableland by the banks of the great river, some score of miles to the +south of Salto, he established a camp from which he directed the +policy of the five provinces that owned to his rule. + +In the neighbourhood of this encampment of Hervidero was another, in +which were confined those prisoners whose offences were not considered +worthy of immediate death. Serving as it did to cleanse doubtful minds +of rebellion, it was christened by the euphuistic name of +Purificacion. There is no doubt that the methods employed for this +exalted purpose often ended fatally for the unfortunates experimented +upon. The popular tales of the deeds done at both encampments are +extraordinarily revolting. Two phrases of jocular slang then much in +use throw a lurid light upon the callousness of the period. "To play +the violin" referred to the cutting of a human throat; "to play the +viola" signified the severance of a live man's body--both gruesomely +accurate similes. Men are said to have been flung wholesale into the +river, attached to stones, and a peculiarly agonising form of death +was engineered in the sewing up of a living victim in the hide of a +freshly killed bullock, which was then exposed to the sun. The result +was shrinkage, and suffocation for the miserable wretch within the +reeking covering, an ending that was dubbed "the waistcoat" by a touch +of similar humour. Numerous evidences of individuality, moreover, were +evident in the various forms of punishment. Thus a certain Colonel +Perugorria, who lay under a charge of treason, was, until his +execution, chained to a post, as though he were a dog, by means of an +iron collar round his neck, to which the steel links were attached. + +Many of Artigas's supporters roundly deny the perpetration of these +horrors; yet there is little doubt that many such acts were committed +throughout the various provinces. To what extent they received the +sanction of Artigas is far more uncertain. The probability is that he +strongly discouraged wanton torture, although it lay beyond even such +powers as his to hold back the Gaucho passions when they were fiercest +and to prevent the merciless acts of revenge. Many eye-witnesses have +related that he exhibited emotion and pity at the sight of a humanely +conducted execution. + +Indeed, there is no reason to suppose that Artigas, for all his errors +and limitations, was not a true believer in the very lofty sentiments +he used to express. One of the many examples of these is to be met +with in his letter to the local authorities of Montevideo, when in +1815 they endowed him with the title of Captain-General, with the +addition of that of "Protector and Patron of the Liberty of the +Nation." Artigas, refusing the honour, which, nevertheless, remained +attached to him, says: "Titles are the phantoms of States, and the +glory of upholding liberty suffices for your illustrious corporation. +Let us teach our countrymen to be virtuous. For this reason I have +retained until now the rank of a simple citizen ... the day will come +when men will act from a sense of duty, and when they will devote +their best interests to the honour of their fellow-men." + +The simplicity of Artigas was innate and genuine. One of his own +nationality, on a visit to Hervidera, describes the costume of the +dreaded leader. On that occasion Artigas was content with the plain +costume of a countryman--plain blue jacket and pantaloons, white +stockings, and a skin cloak, all rather shabby. The paraphernalia of a +meal was of similar quality, and in addition lamentably scanty. +Broth, a stew of meat, and roast beef were served on a couple of +pewter dishes with broken edges; a single cup took the place of +non-existent wine-glasses; no more than three earthenware plates could +be mustered, and, since the seating accommodation was restricted to +three chairs and a hide box, the majority of the guests had perforce +to stand. Such were the clothes and household goods of the lord of +five provinces, whose armies were battling with Portuguese Peninsular +War veterans and with Argentine battalions, whose vessels had borne +his flag to Europe to harass hostile vessels off the coasts of +Portugal itself, who made treaties with England and other powers, and +whose name was all but worshipped by a hundred thousand people! + +J. P. Robertson, an English chronicler of the period, gives an +interesting account of a meeting with Artigas. Assaulted and robbed by +a band of the noted chief's adherents, he boldly set out for +Purificacion to claim redress. His words deserve quotation at some +length. "I came to the Protector's headquarters," he says, "of the +so-called town of Purificacion. And there (I pray you do not turn +sceptic on my hands) what do you think I saw? Why, the most excellent +Protector of half the New World, seated on a bullock's skull, at a +fire kindled on the mud floor of his hut, eating beef off a spit, and +drinking gin out of a cow horn! He was surrounded by a dozen officers +in weather beaten attire, in similar positions, and similarly occupied +with their chief. All were smoking, all gabbling. The Protector was +dictating to two secretaries, who occupied, at one deal table, the +only two dilapidated rush bottom chairs in the hovel. To complete the +singular incongruity of the scene, the floor of the one apartment of +the mud hut (to be sure it was a pretty large one) in which the +general, his staff, and secretaries, were assembled, was strewn with +pompous envelopes from all the Provinces (some of them distant some +1,500 miles from that centre of operations) addressed to 'His +Excellency the Protector.' At the door stood the reeking horses of +couriers arriving every half hour, and the fresh ones of those +departing as often.... His Excellency the Protector, seated on his +bullock's skull, smoking, eating, drinking, dictating, talking, +dispatched in succession the various matters brought under his notice +with that calm, or deliberate, but uninterrupted nonchalance, which +brought most practically home to me the truth of the axiom, 'Stop a +little that we may get on the faster.'... He received me, not only +with cordiality, but with what surprised me more, comparatively +gentlemanlike manners, and really good breeding.... The Protector's +business was prolonged from morning till evening, and so were his +meals; for, as one courier arrived another was dispatched, and as one +officer rose up from the fire at which the meat was spitted another +took his place." + +The General politely took his visitor the round of his hide huts and +mud hovels, where the horses stood saddled and bridled day and night, +and where the tattered soldiery waited in readiness for the +emergencies that arose so frequently. When Robertson submitted his +financial claim, Artigas remained as amiable as before. "'You see,' +said the General with great candour and nonchalance, 'how we live +here; and it is as much as we can do, in these hard times, to compass +beef, aguardiente, and cigars. To pay you 6,000 dollars just now is as +much beyond my power, as it would be to pay you 60,000 or 600,000. +Look here,' said he, and so saying, he lifted up the lid of an old +military chest, and pointed to a canvas bag at the bottom of it. +'There,' he continued, 'is my whole stock of cash; it amounts to 300 +dollars; and where the next supply is to come from I am as little +aware as you are.'" Notwithstanding this, Robertson then and there +obtained some trading concessions that, he says, repaid him the amount +of his claim many times over. + +Surely this picture reveals Artigas more truly than all the +long-winded polemics that have raged about the famous Uruguayan. It is +given by one whose sympathies were against the aims of the Gaucho +chief, and who has proved himself no lenient critic. Yet the +description fits no mere cut-throat and plunderer. On the contrary, it +reveals a virile personality, a thinker and worker of a disposition +that goes far to explain the adoration accorded him by his troops. +Artigas, at the hands of the visitor who had sufficient cause for his +ridicule, comes to light as a _man_--contemptuous of poverty, misery, +and sordid surroundings so long as his goal remained as clear and +distinct as it ever was to his sight. + +The picture is not without its pathetic side. It shows Artigas in the +heyday of his power, yet even then hard put to it to supply his men +with clothes and the common necessities of life. Imagine the calm +force and philosophy of a being capable of governing more than a third +of a million square miles of territory with the assistance of a +treasury of three hundred dollars! Nevertheless, these _opéra bouffe_ +conditions represented the highest point of material prosperity to +which Artigas ever attained. For five years he ruled thus, grappling +desperately with the invading Brazilian armies, and resisting the +efforts of the Buenos Aires forces to regain control of the four +Argentine provinces that had espoused his cause. + +With a prosperity thus frugally marked, it is easy to conceive the +circumstances of the adversity that was to come. To their credit be +it said that the Uruguayans faltered not in the least in the face of +the ultimate doom that must have appeared inevitable. As their ranks +became steadily thinned, the invading hordes of Portuguese soldiers +swelled in numbers, while the Buenos Aires attacks on the river +provinces became yet more determined. Yet, wanting in everything, its +more capable and intelligent officers prisoners of war, the Uruguayans +fought on to the very end--gaunt, haggard men who gave back blow for +blow, though their courage was often sustained by no other means than +the chewing of strips of hide. One of the officers of a regiment of +lancers, once the pride of the army, describes the condition of the +men in the last days of the struggle. At reveille, on a chilly +winter's morning, each trooper would supplement the loin-cloth that +alone remained to him by a whole cowhide. Thus when their backs were +turned as they retired to their quarters, the number of men could only +be judged by the quantity of moving cowhides! + +Even then the final hour might have been indefinitely postponed but +for the revolt of Ramirez, one of Artigas's own chieftains. After a +homeric struggle, Ramirez obtained the victory over his old leader, +and pursued him relentlessly through the provinces of Corrientes and +Misiones. It was by this incessant chase alone that the victor +retained his superiority. For such was the popularity of Artigas that +a few days' halt sufficed for a number of fresh Gauchos and Indians to +join him. When he had escaped from his penultimate defeat, accompanied +by only twelve men, his pursuer lost touch with him for a week. At the +end of that time the veteran had collected over nine hundred men, and +was besieging Cambay, one of Ramirez's strongholds. A division was +sent off post-haste to the spot, and it was here that the old warrior +fought his last fight. Artigas, leaving most of his men dead upon the +field, fled northwards and passed into Paraguay. + +The later years of Artigas present the strangest contrast to his early +life. Received and sheltered after some hesitation by Francia, the +dreaded tyrant of Paraguay, he was first allotted a dwelling in the +north of the country, and was afterwards permitted to dwell in the +neighbourhood of Asuncion, the capital. Here he lived in complete +retirement and peace until his death occurred, at the advanced age of +eighty-three. Both his time and the small pension allowed him by the +Paraguayan Government were spent in relieving the wants of his +neighbours, by whom he was regarded with affection and veneration. The +keynote to the true Artigas undoubtedly lies in these last years, when +in humble tranquillity he had leisure at length to practise the +benevolence and charity that he had so often preached from a +corpse-surrounded pulpit. Difficult as it is to withdraw the +personality of Artigas from the sea of blood that flooded his age, he +was surely a product of an anarchical period rather than of anarchy +itself. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +HISTORY + + The Spanish colonies as nations--The first-fruits of + freedom--Uruguay beneath the heel of Portugal--The advent of a + second liberator--Juan Antonio Lavalleja--The forming of the + league of the "thirty-three"--Opening of the campaign--The + patriot force--Rank and its distribution--The crossing of the + River Plate--Commencement of operations in Uruguay--A first + success--Spread of the movement--Rivera embraces the patriot + cause--The march upon Montevideo--A daring siege--How the army of + occupation was deceived--Timely reinforcements--Lavalleja + establishes an independent government--Incident at the opening of + the Senate--Argentina comes to the assistance of + Uruguay--Beginning of the rivalry between Rivera and + Lavalleja--Dissension in the Uruguayan army--Temporary disgrace + of Rivera--His acquittal--Lavalleja declares himself + dictator--Uruguay's independence acknowledged by Argentina and + Brazil--The national authorities enter Montevideo. + + +The end of the year 1824 witnessed the extinction of the last vestige +of the power of Spain in South America. With one solitary exception, +each former Spanish colony had now raised itself to the status of a +nation. It is true that in the majority of cases the inhabitants of +these countries suffered not only the wildest of anarchy, but in +addition a degree of despotism that had been unknown during the +Spanish régime, for all the selfishness of the Peninsula Government. +Yet since the flock of tyrants that rose up, each like a grim phoenix, +from the ashes of the Spanish Dominion were conceived of the tortured +countries themselves, the South Americans took such small comfort as +they might from a dim reflection that in their own hands lay the +possibility of the improvement in the rulers born from their own bone. + +Of these States thus freed from any other despotism but of their own +making Uruguay formed the sole exception. For years she had remained +beneath the heel of Portugal, writhing uneasily, but unable to remove +the weight of the foreign occupation. When the time came for the full +independence of the rest, however, Uruguay's longing to acquire their +State was no longer to be repressed, even at the cost of the expulsion +of the second European power that had fixed upon the land. + +The man whose name stands out as the liberator of Uruguay for the +second time is Juan Antonio Lavalleja. Ceding place only to Artigas as +a national hero, Lavalleja had fought in many actions against the +Spaniards, and had distinguished himself not a little in the original +revolutionary wars. Alternate military and civil occupations have +nearly always fallen to the lot of South American public men, and +Lavalleja formed no exception to the rule. At the time when the +victory of Ayacucho in Peru crowned the entire campaign against the +Spaniards he held the comparatively humble and prosaic post of manager +of a meat-curing factory in the neighbourhood of Buenos Aires. + +The rejoicings that the victory of Ayacucho aroused in the capital of +Argentina stirred to the depth both Lavalleja and a company of +fellow-exiles from the Banda Oriental. A meeting of these patriots was +held on the spot, the result of which was an enthusiastic +determination to place their own country upon the same footing as the +rest. Doubtless many hundreds of similar gatherings had already been +effected--and concluded by vapourings of thin air. But the spirit of +these men who had thus come together was of another kind. Having sworn +solemnly to free their country, action followed hotfoot on the heels +of words. A couple of their number were sent at once to Uruguay to +prepare the minds of a trusted few, while the rest made preparations +for the expedition that was to follow. + +The mission of the two deputies proved successful. They returned to +Buenos Aires, the bearers of many promises of support and +co-operation. Nothing now remained but to take the first irrevocable +step in the campaign that was to bloom out from this very humble seed. + +"Treinta y Tres" has now developed into a proper name in the Banda +Oriental; for the number of men who started out from Buenos Aires for +the sake of Uruguay was thirty-three. The name has now been locally +immortalised. Among the infinite variety of objects that it endows may +be counted a province, a town, innumerable plazas and streets, and a +brand of cigarettes. + +There is certainly nothing that is intrinsically humorous in the +adventures of these noble men who set out for their patriotic purpose +in the face of such terrible risks. Yet as a specimen of the +constitution of the armies of the South American factions at this +period a survey of the grades held by the small gathering is +illuminating. In the first place the diminutive expedition had for its +Commander-in-Chief Colonel Juan Antonio Lavalleja, who had beneath him +three majors and four captains. These in turn were supported by three +lieutenants, an ensign, a sergeant, a corporal, and a guide. The +remaining eighteen constituted the rank and file of the force--in +fact, the Army proper. + +The little expedition so overwhelmingly officered set out from Buenos +Aires, proceeding northward along the Argentine shore. Reaching a +point where the river had become comparatively narrow, they embarked +in small boats, and launched out on the Uruguay at dead of night. A +gale obliged them to seek refuge on a friendly island, and caused a +day's delay. But the next evening they embarked once more, and reached +in safety the beach of La Agraciada on their native shore. There they +unfurled their chosen tricoloured banner, and swore once again to +attain liberty or death. + +The expedition was now actually on the scene of its mission, and +shortly after daybreak it began its march to the north. During the +course of a few hours they collected _en route_ reinforcements of +forty able-bodied and armed Orientales. + +Proceeding steadily onwards, the gallant little army, officers and +all, found itself in the neighbourhood of the small town of Dolores, +better known formerly as San Salvador. This was held by a garrison of +eighty men in the service of Brazil. Determined to inflict a first +decisive blow, Lavalleja led his men onwards to the attack. The moment +chanced to be especially propitious, since the officers and principal +men in the town had attended a dance on the previous night. So great +had been the delights of the _baile_ that the principal men had found +it necessary to continue their repose long into the morning--a +circumstance that is not unknown even to this day. + +Had it not been for an error on the part of the patriot guide the town +would undoubtedly have been captured by surprise and taken almost +without a blow. As it was, the official chanced to mistake the +situation of a ford in an intervening small river. This necessitated a +lengthy march along the banks ere a place suitable for the passage was +found, and the presence of the small company with the tricoloured +flag was discovered with amazement by the inhabitants. + +Thus ere Lavalleja's expedition had succeeded in crossing the stream +there had been moments of wild bustle in Dolores. Officers sprang out +of bed to gird on their swords in haste; soldiers ran to assemble with +uniforms even more than usually awry, while the municipal officers +doubtless ran to and fro in aimless confusion. Nevertheless by the +time that the turmoil was at an end the garrison had had an +opportunity to muster, and to sally out against the advancing band +that had not yet gained the town. + +Since the Portuguese forces were under the command of an Oriental, +Colonel Julián Laguna, a parley took place ere the two forces met. In +the end, Laguna deciding to remain staunch to the foreign cause, the +thirty-three and their allies charged, routing the enemy completely. +Thus in the course of their first victory they won not only the town +of Dolores itself, but a number of Uruguayan volunteers who joined +them from out of the beaten force. + +The thirty-three with their companions, delaying a very short while in +the captured town, continued their march. A more pressing danger now +menaced them. General Rivera, the Oriental who, having so +distinguished himself in the former wars against the Portuguese, had +entered the latter service when the Uruguayan cause became lost, was +sent out with a force of seventy men to annihilate the daring +aggressors. Here, again, when numbers and rank are compared, it will +be seen that the regular forces of the country were more or less on a +par with the thirty-three in their generosity in the matter of titles. + +Nevertheless, however it was commanded, the thirty-three were destined +to gain yet further support from the force detached against them. On +his near approach to the devoted band, Rivera's patriotic instincts +overcame all other considerations. At a meeting contrived between him +and Lavalleja the pair embraced, and Rivera forsook the Brazilian +service on the spot to join the cause of his country. The addition to +their ranks of the famous fighter and his men was naturally greeted +with enthusiasm by the patriots, who advanced filled with renewed +confidence. On the other hand, the news of the defection created no +little consternation among the Brazilians, who set a price upon the +heads of both Rivera and Lavalleja, valuing the former at five hundred +dollars more than the fifteen hundred offered for Lavalleja, although +the latter remained the actual commander of the expedition. + +The thirty-three had now abandoned their cautious north-west fringing +of the coast. With their numbers increasing as they went, they struck +for the south-east, making boldly for Montevideo itself, and defeating +the various Portuguese forces that strove to oppose them. + +Arrived at length at San José, some three score miles distant from +Montevideo, Lavalleja determined on an especially daring move that +proved his appreciation of the value of prestige. From there he sent +all his prisoners with a strong guard under Rivera to Durazno, and at +Canelones, farther on, he detached another party to obtain recruits +from the neighbourhood of Maldonado. He himself, accompanied now by no +more than a hundred men, continued in supreme unconcern his march to +Montevideo. Arriving upon the outskirts of the spot, he encamped on +the Cerrito de la Victoria, whence, employing a colossal piece of +bluff, he set himself to besiege the city. + +It is surely not often that a hundred men have sat down to invest a +fortified town garrisoned by nearly two thousand soldiers. Yet it was +in the amazing effrontery of the proceeding that success lay. On the +very next day a strong force of the enemy, numbering over fifteen +hundred men with four guns, sallied out from Montevideo. The hundred +besiegers must doubtless have thought that all was lost; but, +continuing the grim farce to the end, they opened fire to the best of +their ability upon the advancing columns. The result more than +fulfilled their most sanguine expectations. Convinced that the furious +fusillade emanated from a powerful army, the Portuguese columns +retired into the town, while the hundred men sat down again to +continue the siege of Montevideo. + +But their number did not now long remain at this ridiculously +inadequate total. By twos and tens and even by hundreds the Orientales +escaped from the city, flocking to the tricolour banner until the +patriot army had swollen to a degree that rendered it formidable in +fact as well as in fancy. So successful, moreover, had proved Rivera's +mission in the Campo that in a few days almost the whole of Uruguay +was in arms against the enemy's forces in its midst. + +The work of the thirty-three had been extraordinarily rapid. So +successful, indeed, had been the campaign that, in the place of +disputing against another's authority, the moment had arrived for +setting up their own, against which it should be treason to contend. + +In order to effect this Lavalleja withdrew personally from the siege +of Montevideo, and established an independent government at the town +of Florida to the north of the capital. Moved by a truly lofty sense +of patriotism, he handed over his leadership to the new authorities, +who responded by creating him General-in-Chief of the Army of +Liberation, and by endowing Rivera with the rank of Inspector-General. +On this occasion the titles conveyed some material significance, +since the Uruguayan Army now amounted to two thousand five hundred men. + +The opening of this new Senate was attended by a dramatic incident. In +order to be present at the assembly it was necessary for Lavalleja to +leave the front of hostilities and to ride through rain and mud to +Florida. + +Ere entering the Hall of Assembly he was met by several ladies, +amongst whom was the wife of Rivera, who begged him to change his +dripping costume before he proceeded with the official business. +"Thank you, señoras," replied Lavalleja, "I will attend to that as +soon as our country has its government." Within a few minutes the +consummation had been achieved, and Lavalleja was in dry clothes. The +story affords only one more instance of the numerous inevitable +satellites that attend the passage of a notable name through the ages; +but here the ingenuous simplicity of the tale is almost sufficient in +itself to vouch for its truth. At this point, properly speaking, ends +the story of the thirty-three. Beneath the national edifice that they +had built up the minor members of the devoted band had already become +lost to view. The control of affairs was now vested in a Senate and +Corporations, and Argentina, hastening to recognise the existence of +the independent Government, sent her armies to its assistance, +stipulating that in exchange for the alliance Uruguay should become +one of the provinces of the River Plate. + +With the survival of the first perils, moreover, the cohesion of the +leaders of the famous thirty-three passed away. During the course of +the final battles against the Portuguese a rivalry sprang into +existence between Lavalleja and Rivera that gradually deepened into a +jealous antagonism that has left its mark of bitterness upon the +country to this day. + +With the growing certainty of the success of the cause, and, +consequently, of the honours and power in store for the chosen few +among the patriot ranks dissension and suspicion became rampant. One +of the more immediate outcomes of this regrettable state was the +falling under suspicion of Rivera. Accused of opening up negotiations +with the Portuguese, he was sent to Buenos Aires for trial. Acquitted +by President Rivadavia of traitorous intent, he was, nevertheless, +held in prison owing to his outspoken federal views, which were in +direct opposition to the unitarian doctrines of Argentina. After a +while, however, he escaped from captivity, and, collecting an army, +completely re-established his reputation by invading and conquering +the Misiones districts that were then in the power of the Portuguese. +Although the territory was in the end ceded back again, the invasion +was of material effect in concluding the war. + +When, moreover, after the rout of the Portuguese fleet by the +Argentine Admiral Brown, and the series of victories that culminated +in the battle of Ituzaingo, it became evident that the expulsion of +the Portuguese from Uruguayan soil was now inevitable within a very +short time, Lavalleja did not wait for any definite conclusion of +peace. In October of 1827, when, as a matter of fact, the terms of an +armistice were still in dispute, he deposed the national Junta, and +without further ado declared himself Dictator of his country. This +office he held until July of the following year, when he voluntarily +resigned from the post. + +August witnessed a formal acknowledgment of the independence of +Uruguay by both Argentina and Brazil, and in November a provisional +Government was established. On May 1, 1829, the national authorities, +amidst no little pomp and ceremony, made a formal entry into +Montevideo, and Uruguay was at last definitely left to the care of its +own rulers. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +HISTORY--_continued_ + + Foreign war succeeded by internal chaos--Warriors as + statesmen--The dictatorship of Lavalleja--His methods--The first + open breach between Lavalleja and Rivera--A temporary + reconciliation--Establishment of the Constitution of + Uruguay--Lavalleja and Rivera candidates for the President's + chair--Differences in the temperaments of the two--Rivera is + elected first President of Uruguay--Jealousies and + intrigue--Attack upon Rivera--Narrow escape of the + President--Lavalleja's party temporarily occupy + Montevideo--Defeat of the insurgent general--His flight into + Brazil--Intervention of the Argentine Dictator Rosas--His support + of Lavalleja--Combined forces beaten by Rivera--Lavalleja's + second attempt proves unsuccessful--General Oribe succeeds Rivera + as President--Lavalleja's party again in the ascendant--Rivera + heads a revolution--Civil war--Intervention of + France--Resignation of Oribe--Rivera elected President--His + alliance with the French and Corrientines--Declaration of war + against Rosas--Defeat of the latter--On the withdrawal of the + French Rosas resumes the aggressive--Severe defeat of Rivera and + his allies of the littoral provinces--Oribe besieges + Montevideo--The services of Garibaldi--The Uruguayan forces + decimated--Further incidents of the war--The power of Rosas + broken by Brazil, Uruguay, and Entre-Rios. + + +For the purpose of a self-contained romance with a popular ending, the +adventures of the leaders of the thirty-three should end at the moment +when the liberation of the Banda Oriental became a dawning certainty, +but history has an unfortunate knack of continuing where fiction +ceases. The fiercest enemy of a hero is longevity. + +In this case the phase is especially lamentable, since although daring +deeds of arms persisted, the feats were wrought, not in a joint cause +against a common enemy, but amidst a turbulent confusion of sudden +alliances and yet more rapid breaches between friends and neighbours +that rendered impossible speculation whence the tide of battle would +flow next. + +The three names that stood out from the very midst of the chaos of +events were those of Lavalleja, Rivera, and Oribe. Since the three had +fought shoulder to shoulder for their country's redemption this +prominence was only fitting and just. Yet the rôle of each of the +three differed widely now from his previous methods. Cohesion had +departed with the enemy's forces: not so the tale of the battlefields, +that multiplied until they stained the soil of the country a deeper +red than ever before. + +The first few months of complete independence gave no inkling of what +was to come. After one or two politicians had held interim offices, +General Rondeau, who had rendered great services to Uruguay, was made +Governor. A disagreement, however, arose between him and the +constitutional assembly. As a result he resigned his post, and +departed to Buenos Aires, shaking the dust of the Banda Oriental from +his feet. + +Lavalleja was now invested with the chief office of the land. Alas for +the difference between the striver after liberty and the sitter in the +goddess's chair! Viewed from the lofty pedestal, freedom became +distant far below and lost to sight. In short, Lavalleja became a +dictator of the most arbitrary type from the very beginning of his +authority. He muzzled the Press, such as it was, disbanded various +battalions suspected of loyalty to his private interests, and then +turned upon Rivera, his old comrade-in-arms. Not satisfied with +depriving the latter of his office of Commandant-General, Lavalleja +raised an army, and, intent upon destruction, marched against the man +whom he feared as his most dangerous rival. + +The despotic Governor was not mistaken in his estimate of Rivera's +power. Indeed, the result of a battle would have been extremely +doubtful, had the two forces come into conflict. But the strenuous +efforts of several peaceful commissions ended in a reconciliation +between the leaders--a mere loose patching up of differences, it is +true, but one that served for the time being. In the meanwhile the +Constitution of independent Uruguay was established and sworn to, the +event being greeted by the populace with wild enthusiasm. + +The new State was, of course, endowed with a President, whose chair +remained to be occupied. As was inevitable, the two candidates for the +high post were Generals Lavalleja and Rivera. Both were, perhaps, +almost equally secure in the admiration of the nation. Nevertheless, +the distinctions between the temperaments of the two were marked. +Rivera was a democrat, a friend of the populace, whom he captivated by +his intimacy and easy manner. Lavalleja's tendencies were, by +comparison, aristocratic; yet it is doubtful whether he lost much in +influence from his loftier pose. + +The first legislative act of the National Assembly came as a bitter +blow to Lavalleja. In October of 1830 that body elected as President +General Rivera. As a nation Uruguay had now blossomed out into a +full-blown Constitution. But the youthful constitutional flower was +destined to suffer an almost continuous winter of frosts. It was +beyond the limits of Lavalleja's forbearance to sit quietly by and to +see his rival comfortably installed in the coveted chair of state. It +was not long ere the machinery of plots was set in motion. The first +attempt proved all but successful. Rivera, accompanied only by a few +men, chanced to be in the small town of Durazno, suspecting nothing, +when a force of five hundred of his enemies descended suddenly upon +the place. Their object was the capture of the President, who only +escaped by leaping through a window and by swimming across the River +Yi. A rising of the Charrúa Indians was the next material fruit of the +campaign of intrigue; but the rebellion served no other end than the +practical extirpation of the remnant of the aboriginal race that had +survived until then. + +Very shortly after this a revolutionary movement was instigated in +Montevideo itself. Headed by Colonel Garzon, who held in his pocket a +commander-in-chief's commission from Lavalleja, the rising was +temporarily successful. The National Assembly, intimidated, had +already confirmed the appointment of Lavalleja as President, when +Perez, the Vice-President, resisted, and the rest, encouraged by his +example, made a firm stand. As a result, Lavalleja himself made his +appearance in Montevideo, and, with his followers, occupied the +municipal buildings. After an exchange of shots, however, he and his +band were forced to retire. + +During the course of these events Rivera had been absent from the +town. On receiving the news he hastened back from the country, and, +placing himself at the head of an army, set out in strenuous pursuit +of Lavalleja. The latter was overtaken at Tupambay. A battle ended in +the shattering of his company, and, closely pursued by the President, +Lavalleja fled across the northern border and sought shelter in +Brazil. + +In the meanwhile the famous Rosas had come to power in Argentina, and +the policy of this dictator was destined to awaken very material +echoes in Uruguay. Lending support to Lavalleja, he sent a force of +three hundred men across the river. In order to create a diversion, +these captured the town of Melo from the Government party. Their +triumph was fleeting. Beaten shortly afterwards by Rivera in person, +the invading force fled to Brazil. + +But the end of the tide of invasion had not yet come. At the beginning +of 1834 Lavalleja, aided by further contingents furnished by Rosas, +descended once more from the north into his native country. On this +occasion the events of his former attempt were repeated with equally +disastrous results to himself. Beaten once again, he sought Brazil, +the sheltering spot of all the atoms of Uruguayan turbulence. + +A little after this the four years of Rivera's term of office expired. +It was now the turn of another of the thirty-three, General Manuel +Oribe, to enter the arena. Oribe was a warrior as well seasoned as the +others. He had fought strenuously under Artigas's standard; but at the +coming of the crisis, declaring that he could no longer serve under +such a tyrant, he joined the Buenos Aires cause. Later, he had formed +one of the most prominent members of the thirty-three. Becoming +embroiled in the disputes of the period, he had found himself in +opposition to Rivera, although he had to thank the President for +promotion in rank. + +In March of 1835 General Manuel Oribe was created the second +constitutional President of the Republic. One of his first cares was +to undermine the weighty influence of Rivera, in whose power he saw a +menace to his own office. The new President began the campaign by +summoning back to their country all those _Lavallejistas_ who had been +living in forced exile in Brazil and Argentina. Then, in order to +deliver a death-blow to a rival's prestige, he deprived the late +President of his rank of commandant-general. + +Exasperated beyond endurance at this latter move, Rivera immediately +made his appeal to the only authority that was understood at the +period--that of arms. The insurrection attained almost immediately to +formidable proportions. Indeed, there is no doubt that the malcontent +cause would have been successful almost immediately had not Rosas +intervened. As it was, the Dictator sent over from Argentina to the +assistance of the Government five hundred troops, under the command of +Lavalleja, who had thrown in his lot with Oribe against his +arch-rival. + +As a preliminary to the actual hostilities Oribe sent forth a +thunderous proclamation, in which Rivera was branded as a traitor to +his country. The first battle ended in favour of the Government, the +forces of the rebellion leaving over two hundred dead upon the field. +The chief historical importance of the contest, however, lies in the +fact that on this occasion were used for the first time the red and +the white colours that distinguished the respective forces of Rivera +and Oribe and that have ever since remained the emblems of bitter +strife. + +The fortune of war varied for a while. After numerous indecisive +skirmishes, Rivera won an action at Yucutuja, while a month later +Oribe was successful in a battle on the banks of the River Yi. Then +followed the decisive battle of Palmar, from which the Government +forces emerged no longer as an army, but merely as a scattering of +fugitive stragglers. + +In the meanwhile foreign influence, in addition to the lot of war, had +veered in favour of the revolution. The arbitrary methods of Rosas, +extended to foreigners resident within the land, had caused him to +become embroiled with France. Thus the northern power, in addition to +the institution of a blockade of Buenos Aires port, was only too glad +of the opportunity of frustrating the plans of the Argentine despot in +Uruguay. Allying their forces with those of the revolutionists, they +captured the island of Martin Garcia from the Government troops, and +were preparing further active measures of aggression when Oribe +realised the hopelessness of his plight. Adopting the sole course that +was left him, he resigned his office of President, and sailed for +Buenos Aires, accompanied by his late ministers, and a considerable +following of private friends. + +Rivera's road to the return of power was now clear. In November of +1838 he made a triumphal entry into Montevideo, and in due course the +National Assembly elected him President for the second time. One of +the first acts of the new chief of the State was the avenging of +Rosas' late interference in favour of his rival. Allying himself with +the French Government and the Province of Corrientes, he declared +war--not against the worthy Argentine nation, as was carefully +explained in the proclamation, but against the "tyrant of the immortal +people of South America." + +Rosas was never slow in responding to a challenge of the kind. +Scarcely had the declaration of hostilities been made when he sent an +army of six thousand men to invade Uruguay. Rivera, his forces +strengthened by a thousand French volunteers, marched to meet the +enemy, and at Cagancha he obtained a signal victory, the Argentine +troops being defeated with heavy loss, and thus forced to abandon +their campaign in Uruguay. + +It seemed as though the event had put the seal upon Uruguay's success. +But the fortunes of the period were as erratic as the period was +turbulent. Very shortly after the Battle of Cagancha the differences +between Rosas and the French were settled, with the result that an +armistice was effected. With the raising of the blockade of Buenos +Aires and the departure of the French troops from the country, it was +the turn of Rosas to laugh, for his enemy now stood before him +single-handed. + +On this occasion the first aggressive steps were taken by the naval +forces. In 1841 the Argentine fleet, under Admiral Brown, made a +practical end to Uruguayan sea power. Some minor vessels that were +subsequently collected were given in charge of the Italian Garibaldi, +and the famous guerilla leader carried on with them a war of +privateering, without, however, meeting with any material success. + +In a desperate attempt to stem the formidable tide of Rosas's power, +the three provinces of Corrientes, Entre Rios, and Santa Fé allied +themselves with Uruguay. From the joint States Rivera raised an army +of seven thousand men. But even this heroic effort did not suffice. +Boldly marching through Entre Rios towards Buenos Aires, Rivera found +himself brought to an abrupt halt by the unexpected appearance before +him of his old enemy, Oribe, at the head of an imposing army of +fourteen thousand men. The ensuing battle, fiercely fought, ended in +an overwhelming victory for the superior forces, nearly a thousand of +Rivera's men being massacred in cold blood on the conclusion of the +fight. + +The beaten President retired from Entre Rios with the remnants of his +army, while Oribe likewise crossed the Uruguay River, and marched +leisurely southwards from Salto towards Montevideo. In due time his +armies arrived before the capital, which they forthwith proceeded to +invest, thus commencing the great siege of the place that endured for +nine years. + +The circumstances of the beleaguering are too numerous and complicated +to bear recapitulation here. One of the most notable features of the +earlier days was a proclamation issued by Oribe to the effect that he +would spare no foreigners whose sympathies lay with the "rebels," as +he termed the Government of Rivera--or rather of Joaquín Suárez, who +had taken the defeated President's post in Montevideo. The result of +the proclamation was exactly the reverse of that anticipated by Oribe, +since the foreigners responded by raising legions of their own and by +flocking to the active defence of the town. The capital, however, was +closely invested by sea as well as by land, Garibaldi's flotilla +finding itself unable to make any headway against Admiral Brown's +blockading fleet. + +In the meanwhile Rivera had not been idle. With the amazing +recuperative power that was characteristic of so many of the noted +leaders of the period he had scraped together from the countryside a +force of nearly four thousand men. With these he harassed the rear of +the besieging force to such effect that the Buenos Aires Government, +in order to leave the blockade undisturbed, raised a fresh army, and +sent it, under the command of General Urquiza, to cope with the +unexpected source of danger. + +Urquiza came up with Rivera at India Muerta, and the result was fatal +to the Uruguayan force. The end of a desperate conflict saw nearly a +thousand of Rivera's men lying dead upon the Campo. In accordance with +the drastically conclusive methods of the age, the number of prisoners +was small by comparison. As to the surviving remnant, it was scattered +to the four winds on the face of the downlands. + +The terrible defeat of India Muerta deprived Rivera of his military +prestige and Uruguay of her last hope of aggressive warfare. Cooped up +in Montevideo, the Government appealed in despair for foreign +intervention. England and France, viewing the policy of Rosas with +dislike, complied with the request. But in the end their interference +proved futile, although the combined European forces went the length +of blockading the Argentine ports, and of defeating Rosas's troops on +the banks of the Paraná. + +Rivera in the meanwhile had fallen upon evil days. His last defeat had +involved him in straits that went beyond even the loss of men and +power. The fatal day won for him, unjustly enough as it proved, the +active suspicion of his own people. Doubtful of his loyalty, the +Montevideo Government applied to Brazil for his banishment to Rio de +Janeiro. The petition was acceded to; but the Uruguayan leader seemed +a veritable human phoenix in his ability to spring undismayed from the +ashes of each successive disaster. With the ultimate object of taking +an active part once again in his country's defence, he succeeded in +getting himself appointed by Montevideo as Minister Plenipotentiary to +Paraguay. + +Rivera, however, had no intention of proceeding to take up his office. +Once free of Brazil, he sailed boldly down the river to Montevideo, +and raised the popular opinion of the capital so much in his favour +that, after a short period of disturbance in the beleaguered city, he +was once again endowed with trust and command. He took himself +forthwith to the Campo, where he resumed his warlike operations with +varied success. + +Nevertheless, it was many years ere this particular period of +Uruguay's strenuous vicissitudes came to an end. The year 1851 marked +one of the numerous dawns in the fortunes of the land. Then an +alliance was concluded between Uruguay and Brazil, while the famous +General Urquiza, revolting against the Buenos Aires tyrant, brought +the forces of Entre Rios to join the league that was now formed +against Rosas. The result was the Battle of Monte Caseros, in which +the combined forces made an end to the dictator's power, and caused +him to flee to Europe. + +The soil of Uruguay was once again free from hostile troops. During +the fleeting period of peace that followed, it is necessary to take +leave of two of the three Orientales who had ridden to such purpose on +the breath of the whirlwind. A little more than two years after the +Battle of Monte Caseras, Lavalleja died at Montevideo. In harness to +the end, the liberator of his country ended his career just as he had +once again been elected to take a share in its government. Three short +months later Rivera followed his old comrade and enemy to the land +where the cavalry lance is unknown and where no gunshot crashes echo. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +HISTORY--_continued_ + + Condition of Uruguay at the conclusion of the war against + Rosas--Measures for the relief of poverty--Juan Francesco Giro + elected President--The arising of antagonistic elements--Giro + resigns in favour of Bernardo Berro--A revolution ends in the + formation of a triumvirate--On the death of Lavalleja and Rivera, + Flores becomes Dictator--Rebellion against his rule--Brazil sends + an army to the assistance of General Flores--Further + revolutionary movements--Manuel Basilio Bustamente succeeds + Flores--The policy of General César Diaz--His exile and return at + the head of an army--Defeat and death of Diaz--Two interim + Presidents--Continuous civil war--General Flores enters the + Republic in command of a strong force and is declared + Dictator--The Paraguayan war--Causes of its outbreak--The policy + and military strength of Paraguay--Strategic errors--Uruguay's + share in the campaign--Flores returns to Montevideo from the seat + of war--His assassination--General Lorenzo Batlle elected + President--The continuance of political unrest--Various + presidents and dictators--The Government of the present day--Don + José Batlle y Ordoñez--Doctor Claudio Williman--The Uruguayan + battle-fields in tabular form--Progress of the land. + + +With the Battle of Monte Caseros and the fall of Rosas the range of +episode enters comparatively modern times. Although the war had ended +successfully for the Uruguayan cause, its conclusion left the country +in an utterly impoverished and desolate condition. Through the +terrible stress of events in a land of such infinite natural resources +the population was roofless, and in many districts actually at the +point of starvation--an unheard of situation for such a country. As +for the treasury, it was virtually empty, and the harassed Government +found itself under the necessity of seeking for loans from without +its frontiers on any terms that it could obtain. + +On the 1st of March, 1852, Don Juan Francisco Giro was elected as the +fourth constitutional President of Uruguay. The newly elected chief of +the State made desperate efforts towards ameliorating the financial +condition of the country, but political complications were destined to +work against success from the very start. A fortnight after he had +assumed power the Uruguayan army that had borne a brilliant share in +the victory of Monte Caseros returned home from Buenos Aires. Its +commander, General César Diaz, was acclaimed as a popular hero, and +was promptly created Minister for War and Marine, although his +sympathies were directly opposed to the Government. + +It was not long ere the antagonistic elements that now surrounded him +led to the resignation of Giro, who in October delegated his authority +to Don Bernardo Berro. The latter, however, was able no more than his +predecessor to restrain the tide of partizanship, and in July of 1853 +an open revolution broke out, headed by General Diaz and Colonel +Palleja. The outbreak occurred during a review in the centre of +Montevideo, and, dramatically conceived, proved definitely successful +within the course of a few minutes. In the first instance Berro was +forced merely to appoint a fresh set of ministers, whose views were +hostile to his own; but very shortly afterwards the President was +obliged to vacate his post in haste, and to take refuge in the French +legation. + +At the end of September, 1853, a triumvirate was formed of Generals +Lavalleja, Rivera, and Colonel Flores. The deaths of both the former +occurred ere the new regime could be adopted in practice, and thus the +survivor, Colonel Venancio Flores, was elected to complete the term +of the presidency that Giro had vacated. He had scarcely taken charge +of the reins of government, however, when his authority was rebelled +against, this time by the party who had lately been in power. Leaving +General César Diaz in charge of the Government, Flores himself headed +a successful campaign against the revolutionists, at the end of which +his military rank was raised to that of General. + +The unrest did not long remain quelled. Indeed, so threatening did the +situation become that Flores appealed to the Brazilians for aid. In +response the northern republic sent an army of four thousand men, who +occupied the principal cities of Uruguay. The result, as may be +imagined, was a yet more marked seething of discontent. In 1855, +despite the presence of the foreign troops, the Colorado, or red +party, now definitely formed, revolted, and by force of arms obtained +possession of the capital for a while. + +The success of the revolutionists was short-lived. General Oribe and +many other members of the Blanco, or white, group, came to the +assistance of Flores. In the end a compromise was effected. The +revolutionists retired; Flores resigned his post, and Don Manuel +Basilio Bustamente was elected as temporary President. At this stage +of Uruguayan history, however, space does not permit a detailed +description of the various revolutions that followed the one upon the +heels of the other, and that were separated by intervals of merely a +few weeks or months. + +An event of striking importance, however, occurred in 1858, during the +presidentship of Don Gabriel A. Pereira. The latter had been opposed +by General César Diaz, who had stood as an unsuccessful candidate for +the office, and the inevitable jealousies soon became embittered once +more to the point of active explosion. The policy of Diaz was now to +incorporate the Banda Oriental with the Argentine Provinces, and thus +to form a single country that should be known as the United States of +La Plata. + +On the discovery of his plan Diaz was exiled to Buenos Aires, and with +him many of the more prominent members of the Colorado party. Diaz, +however, soon made his way back across the river, and, collecting an +army of eight hundred men, marched upon Montevideo, his forces +swelling in numbers as he went. Unsuccessful in its attempt upon the +capital, the revolutionist army retired, and, after an indecisive +battle or two, met with total defeat at Cagancha. Diaz was taken +prisoner in this action, and was shot in company with fifty of his +followers. + +The remainder of Pereira's term of office passed in comparative +tranquillity. He was succeeded in 1860 by another representative of +his own party, Don Bernardo Berro, who was elected in constitutional +fashion. Three years later, however, General Flores entered the arena +of politics once more. The pretext under which hostilities broke out +was slight enough in itself. A refusal on the part of the Government +to permit the celebration of the anniversary of the Battle of +Quinteros had enraged the Colorados, and Flores, espousing their +cause, led an army into the field. A lengthy series of battles ensued, +in the majority of which Flores was successful. While the war was +still raging, Berro, having completed his term, was succeeded as +President by Don Atanasio Aguirre. Flores, however, having now +obtained the active support of Brazil, was carrying all before him, +and in February of 1865 he entered Montevideo in triumph, and was +proclaimed provisional Governor and then Dictator of the Republic. + +In recapitulating the history of Uruguay at this period the incessancy +of the stream of warlike events is amazing. Scarcely had Flores seated +himself upon what was virtually the throne of his dictatorship when +an event of international importance, the Paraguayan war, occurred +that was destined to convulse three republics and an empire. + +The pretext on which war was declared was the armed intervention of +Brazil in the affairs of the Banda Oriental, and the support lent to +Flores by the Brazilian army--an interference that Francisco Solano +Lopez, the tyrannical Dictator of Paraguay, took upon himself to +resent hotly. Yet, even had not this particular bone of contention +come into being, the war was undoubtedly inevitable. Paraguay's +distrust of Brazil, and the latter's dread of the really formidable +military forces that the inland republic had gathered together, had +piled up a situation that only the faintest flame was required to set +ablaze. + +The military strength of Paraguay at this period was considerable. +With an army of eighty thousand men of wild courage, backed by an +adequate number of cannon, she might well have bidden defiance to any +other single republic of South America. But her strength was exceeded +by her confidence. Desirous of sweeping all before him, Lopez divided +his forces, and dispatched an army to the north in order to invade +Brazil, while another corps was told off to strike in a south-easterly +direction. In order to effect this latter move it was necessary to +obtain Argentina's consent to cross her province of Corrientes. This +permission, which would have involved a breach of neutrality, was, not +unnaturally, refused. Incensed at this check to his plans, Lopez +declared war upon Argentina, and occupied the province of Argentina by +force of arms. In the meanwhile Flores, in return for the support he +had received from Brazil, threw in the lot of the Banda Oriental with +that of the northern empire. + +Thus Paraguay found herself face to face with the allied powers of +Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay, and a struggle ensued that cost the +lives of tens of thousands ere the death of Lopez ended the long and +desperate fight, at the conclusion of which Paraguay stood all but +bereft of her adult manhood. Flores assumed command of the Uruguayan +forces that took part in the campaign, and the Oriental division +distinguished itself on numerous occasions in the course of the +arduous conflict. + +Fifteen months after the beginning of the war Flores found it +necessary to return to Montevideo, where, in spite of the foreign +campaign, symptoms of internal unrest had again become evident. Here +in 1868 he met with the fate that had passed him by in the course of +the Paraguayan war. Learning that a _coup d'état_ had suddenly come +about, and that a body of men had taken the Government House by +assault, Flores without delay started out in his carriage to gain the +scene of action. This move, as a matter of fact, had been foreseen by +the conspirators, and a broken-down wagon blocked one of the streets +through which he had to pass. As the General's carriage came to a halt +in front of the obstruction, a group of men rushed out from the +neighbouring doorways, and a minute later the body of Flores, mortally +wounded by gunshots and knives, was left lying in the roadway. + +This tragedy, however, was of little material assistance to the Blanco +party. Indeed, the sole result, so far as they were concerned, was the +execution of one or two of their leaders. The power remained with the +party of the dead Flores, and General Lorenzo Batlle was elected +President, ruling with no little determination despite the frequent +revolutionary movements that continued to occur. On various occasions, +it is true, the situation of the Government became critical enough, +and in 1870 the capital itself was besieged by the insurrectionists; +but in the end Batlle prevailed, and the insurrectionists were +repulsed, at all events for the time being. + +Beyond these warlike episodes much of importance occurred during the +rule of this President, which lasted until 1872. Two distinct +catastrophes marked the years 1868 and 1869. The former was darkened +by a terrible visitation of cholera, while during the latter a +financial crisis arose that caused the ruin of many thousands of +Oriental families. Nevertheless, the year 1869 is to be marked in +white among the milestones of Uruguay's progress; for it was then that +the railway was inaugurated, and a line completed between Montevideo +and Canelones that marked the first falling into line of the Republic +with the more advanced countries. + +The next President, Doctor José Ellauri, failed to complete his term +of office. In January of 1875 a military revolution forced him to take +hasty refuge in a Brazilian warship that was lying in the port of +Montevideo, while Don Pedro Varela was acclaimed by the army as chief +of state. Raised to power at the point of the bayonet, Varela found it +necessary to sustain his post by the same force. Although his armies +succeeded in suppressing the numerous popular risings, the +dissatisfaction in the end became so general and a condition of +monetary crisis so pronounced that Varela was forced to resign. + +[Illustration: LAGO DEL PRADO: MONTEVIDEO.] + +[Illustration: THE PRADO: MONTEVIDEO. +To face p. 124.] + +Colonel Latorre next assumed power as Dictator. His handling of this +dangerously powerful office was liberal, and after three years of +office he was elected in 1879 as constitutional President of the +Republic. Almost immediately after this, however, the political +situation became too complicated for his patience, and he vacated his +post, declaring, it is said, that the Uruguayans were ungovernable as +a race. Doctor Francisco Vidal, who succeeded him, was replaced in +1882 by General Santos. Although no marked internal disturbances +occurred during the presidentship of this latter, the Blanco party +were making strenuous efforts just outside the frontiers of the +Republic to organise a revolutionary campaign on a serious scale. In +1886, when his office was completed, Santos caused Vidal to be elected +once more, meaning to succeed him again, as he had already done on a +previous occasion. + +No sooner had Vidal occupied the presidential chair than the +threatened revolution broke out. General Santos, at the head of the +Government forces, effectually suppressed the rising, whereupon Vidal +resigned in his favour. A governmental crisis ensued; the Ministry +resigned in a body, and Santos was wounded in the course of an attempt +upon his life. Efforts towards the keeping of the national peace were +now made on both sides, and by means of strenuous endeavour a mixed +Ministry was formed. Known by the title of "the Ministry of +Conciliation," the new Government was acclaimed with enthusiastic +rejoicings throughout Uruguay. Shortly after its formation Santos +proceeded to Europe in order to obtain a complete recovery from his +wound, and General Tajes was elected President of the Republic. + +During Tajes's term of office and that of his successor, Doctor Julio +Herrera y Obes, matters remained fairly quiet. In 1894 Don Juan +Idiarte Borda became chief of state by election, and three years later +a revolution on the part of the Blanco party broke out afresh. At the +end of six months' fighting Borda was assassinated in the streets of +Montevideo, and the tragic event was followed by the patching up of a +temporary peace. + +Don Juan Lindolfo Cuestas, who next assumed control of the Government, +was successful in bringing about a treaty with the Blanco party, and +in September of 1897 the revolutionists laid down their arms. We now +arrive at a period that is practically that of the present day. In +1903 Don José Batlle y Ordoñez was elected President. For the first +year of his rule he had to contend with further risings of the Blanco +party, in the course of which numerous battles were fought. In the end +the Government forces were signally successful, and in September of +1904 peace was signed and a general amnesty declared. + +In 1907 Doctor Claudio Williman succeeded Señor Batlle. The first +years of his tenure of office passed in tranquillity; but at the end +of 1910 the Blancos became active once more, and various actions were +contested ere the Government troops once more obtained the mastery of +the situation in January of 1911. + +Having thus brought this rough sketch of Uruguayan history to its +conclusion at the present day, it must be admitted that the trend +revealed throughout is distinctly warlike. Indeed, the battles that +have reddened the soil of the Banda Oriental since its first +colonisation are amazingly numerous. I have compiled a list of some +120, and were minor skirmishes included a volume would be needed to +contain the list. It is, indeed, the militant portion of history that +must necessarily stand out chiefly in a cursory survey such as this. +The progress of industry, education, science, and art by the side of +the roar of strife is necessarily a silent one. Its course has been +none the less forceful for all that; and universities, schools, +national institutions of every kind, port-works, and the general +paraphernalia of commerce testify to the fact that Uruguay has not +permitted her numerous internal struggles to divert the nation from +its true forward march. In at least one sense the situation renders +tribute to the virile qualities of the Uruguayan. For there are +surely few nations that can exhibit a battle-roll such as this, and +yet at the same time produce convincing evidence of prosperity and +progress. With a proper manipulation of the great national energies, +and their devotion to the pursuits of peace alone--tendencies that are +becoming each year more marked--the prospects of the Banda Oriental +would excel even the present fair promise of her future. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +URUGUAYAN MANNERS AND CUSTOMS + + The temperament of the Oriental--Some merits of the race--The + Spanish Main as treated in fiction--Distinction between the + villains in print and in actual life--Civility as a national + trait--Courtesy of officials--The Uruguayan as a sturdy + democrat--A land of equality--Some local mannerisms--Banquets and + general hospitality--Some practical methods of enjoying + life--Simplicity versus ostentation--Some consequences of + prosperity--The cost of living--Questions of ways and + means--European education and its results--Some evidences of + national pride--The physique of the Oriental--Sports and + games--Football--The science of bull-fighting--Eloquence and the + oratorical art--Uruguayan ladies--Local charm of the sex--South + American institutions--Methods by which they have been + improved--The advantages of experiments--The Uruguayan army and + navy--Some characteristics of the police--Honesty of the + nation--Politics and temperament. + + +Life in Uruguay is perhaps best described by the German word +_gemüthlich_, an untranslatable adjective that savours in its +birthplace just a little of light beer, easy-chairs, cigar smoke, +steaming coffee, and an atmosphere of _camaraderie_. After which it is +necessary to come to an abrupt halt in this task of translation, since +the danger of dragging in a foreign word becomes evident when it is +necessary to introduce another in order to explain it. In any case, +this good-fellowship of the Uruguayan is of a far lighter order than +the Teutonic, and is only remotely concerned with the material matters +of life. Like the majority of the races of Iberian descent, the +Oriental is essentially sober in his tastes, and frequently of an +ascetic temperament. Such traits are inborn and natural, and by no +means the result of a campaign of schooling and self-repression. He +has not, for instance, found it necessary to undergo an outward +treatment of badges and blue ribbons nor to devote himself to a +special era of self-protection from the like of which the chastened +Anglo-Saxon is only just emerging. + +For generations the Spanish Main has afforded a lucrative field to the +writers of pure sensationalism--if the word be allowed. Their choice +has undoubtedly been a wise one, and a judicious compound of fair +creoles, satanic dons, swashbuckling pirates, and heroes of the +tenderest age has proved an almost inexhaustible gold-mine of really +lurid fiction. Yet it cannot be said that this fervid literature has +led to a complete understanding of the South American character by the +British youth. As to the popular and stirring villainies, I will not +attempt to deny that in the past deeds have been enacted that were as +terrible as those which have shuddered in print between gaudy paper +covers. There were many beyond, infinitely worse, and altogether +unthinkable. But the perpetrators of these were seldom enough of the +stereotyped temperament as portrayed by the blood-and-thunder authors. +Alas for the double-dyed deceit that lurked between the terrific +drunken orgies! The real chief organisers of such colossal outrages as +have obtained went about their business with a directness that was +worthy of a better cause, and reddened the pages of history with a +strictly methodical and painstaking industry. Moreover, they were as +sober as an infant of eight at a Band of Hope festival. + +But all this has very little to do with the present-day dwellers in +Uruguay, and their habits and customs. The atmosphere of the country +is essentially one of civility. If you would learn the temperament of +a nation, mark the behaviour of its humbler public functionaries! In +fact, one of the first steps that a student of national character +should take is merely to ask a policeman the first question that +enters the mind. In order to apply the severest test the query should +be a crassly foolish one. In France may be expected vivacious +expostulation, in Germany an explosion of imperative military sounds, +in Holland a placid non-comprehension, in Portugal a pathetic +eagerness to satisfy at all costs--I have tried all these, and more +beyond than would stand inclusion here without the risk of wearying. +The Uruguayan policeman, in his uniform of British pattern, is +essentially courteous, while the manners of the tram conductors, +railway guards, and those other genii of transit in whose hands the +fate of the traveller lies are equally to be commended. + +[Illustration: THE PRINCIPAL PLAZA: MONTEVIDEO.] + +[Illustration: THE HARBOUR: MONTEVIDEO. +To face p. 130.] + +The absence of sycophancy that is characteristic of nearly all South +American Republics is especially marked in Uruguay. A sturdy democracy +is evident here even amongst those whose menial service is of the +nature to evoke professional obsequiousness in other parts of the +world. The waiter, for instance, will serve with brisk attention, but +at the end of the repast he will as often as not pocket the customary +tip as a matter of course that is unworthy of comment, to say nothing +of thanksgiving. At the same time, it is certain that he would bear no +grudge against a well-acquainted patron who had omitted the ceremony +altogether. At a genuine Uruguayan hotel the returning guest who has +been fortunate enough to win the esteem of the hall porter will find +his hand cordially grasped in greeting by that official. The Banda +Oriental is a country of discrimination and individuality where +personality counts and where popularity is a very material asset. +Such a land as this is undoubtedly a home of opportunity. + +The hospitality of the higher classes is proverbial. Indeed, reputable +conviviality of all kinds is at a premium. In Montevideo the occasions +for the giving of banquets are numberless. Thus if a man has achieved +something in particular it is necessary that a banquet should mark the +event, if he has expressed his intention of achieving anything in +particular, a banquet forms the appropriate prelude to the work, and +if he has failed to do anything in particular, there is nothing like +one of these selfsame banquets to console him for the disappointment. + +It is, in fact, much to the Uruguayan's credit that he contrives to +extract a vast deal of enjoyment from life in a comparatively homely +and unostentatious manner. The race meetings here, for instance, are +most pleasant functions, although the horses are not burdened with the +responsibility of those tremendous stakes that prevail in some other +parts. The theatres, too, although they obtain the services of +excellent companies, are moderate in their charges--moderate +considering the usual scale that prevails in South America, that is to +say. + +The advent of a prosperity, however, that now seems more definite than +ever before has produced a similar effect upon household expenditure +as in the neighbouring countries. The cost of living has risen by +leaps and bounds during the past two or three years--a fact that +salaried foreigners resident in the country have found out to their +somewhat acute inconvenience. In the Campo, naturally enough, this +phenomenon of ways and means has not occurred. When live stock and +acres are numbered only by the thousand such annoying matters as +house-rent and the butcher's bill fail to carry any significance. +Nevertheless, in Montevideo the former has practically doubled itself +within the last half-dozen years, and all similar items have followed +suit as a matter of course. But the rise in the price of land +signifies prosperity, and is at all events welcome enough to those +directly interested in the soil. + +South America, taken as a whole, is a continent whose inhabitants are +not a little addicted to ostentation. The phase is natural enough in +view of the conditions that obtain in so many of the Republics. In the +case of the pastoral countries, even in quite modern times the broad +lands had lain comparatively valueless until the introduction of the +freezing process for meat and the opening up of the great wheat and +maize areas sent up the price of the soil by leaps and bounds. Yet +even prior to this era a certain amount of prosperity had prevailed, +and young South Americans had become accustomed up to a certain point +to wend their way for educational purposes to France and to England, +and thus to assimilate European ideas with those that prevailed at the +time in the republics of the south. + +The sudden advent of overflowing wealth thus found them to a great +extent prepared to introduce the most high-flown of modern ideas into +the life of their own country. No doubt the very consciousness of +these riches that, head for head, undoubtedly far surpass that of the +dwellers in the old continent, caused the South Americans to fling +aside the last vestige of pastoral simplicity and to make the roots of +this great wealth of theirs bud out into residential palaces and +entertainments of a rather fabulous order. Since they had shown +clearly enough that their material gains had surpassed those of +Europe, what more natural than that they should endeavour to prove +with equal conclusiveness their ability to outshine the continent of +their ancestors in the ornamentation and luxuries that follow +automatically in the footsteps of fortune! Surely the trait is nothing +beyond the proof of a healthy rivalry. + +The Uruguayan is curiously free from all evidence of this ostentation. +The life he leads is well supplied with comforts, but its tendency is +simple. Thus, although a very fair number of well-turned-out carriages +and motor-cars exist in Montevideo, they are seldom to be seen +parading to and fro in imposing processions along an avenue or street +specially adapted for the purpose, as is the case in many other +cities. Rather less rigorous tenets, moreover, obtain in the case of +the costume of the male city dwellers, and the whole atmosphere of the +country, in fact, is one of plain comfort that has little concern with +outward display. Uruguay, for the present, at all events, has retained +its democracy. Whether it will continue to do so when the national +wealth has become more consolidated is another matter. + +The physique of the Uruguayan men is of a distinctly high order. +Well-set-up and fresh-complexioned, they represent a favourable +testimonial to the climate of the country. In all equestrian exercises +they are, as may be imagined, past masters, and they have proved +themselves apt pupils at sports and games of all kinds. As is general +throughout almost the length and breadth of South America, football is +much in vogue here, although, owing merely to the scarcity of the +population, the ubiquitous game is less played in the country +districts than is the case in Argentina. + +The art of bull-fighting still obtains in Uruguay, notably at Colonia, +on the banks of the river, where a large new edifice has been erected +for the benefit of this, I think, regrettable sport. _Espadas_ from +Spain frequently come out to perform here; but with the exception of +Colonia, that attracts the tourist class from abroad, the haunts of +bull-fighting lead only a precarious existence in the Republic. + +The Oriental is undoubtedly a man of deeds; but in his case the +tendency to action is not effected at the expense of speech. He is, +indeed, a born orator, and on the slightest provocation will burst +forth into a stream of eloquence that can be quite indefinitely +continued. In any case, it is pleasant enough to listen to the +resounding periods in which the customary lofty sentiments are +couched, but it is as well to bear in mind that the oratorical effort +may mean very much--or very little. + +Uruguay, more especially its capital, is well-found in the matter of +femininity. Indeed, ever since it became a full-blown city Montevideo +has been celebrated for its pretty women. This fortunate state of +affairs has now become a well-recognised fact, in which the masculine +portion of the community takes an even greater pride than does the sex +more directly involved. Should a patriotic Montevidean be engaged in +conversation with an interested foreigner, the chances are that it +will not be long ere the confident question is asked: "And our +señoritas, what is your opinion of them?" + +In such a case there can be only one opinion--or expression of +opinion. Conscience may be salved by the reflection that it is as +difficult to find a woman without some stray claim to beauty as it is +to light upon a dame of sixty without a grey hair. In both cases the +feature may be hard to see. If so, it must be taken for granted. In +the case of the Montevidean señorita no such feat of the imagination +is necessary. To the far-famed graces of her sisters throughout South +America she adds the freshness of complexion and the liveliness of +temperament that are characteristic of the land. + +Indeed, to conceive these lighter virtues, added to the natural +Spanish stateliness, is to picture a very bewitching feminine +consummation. Much has been written concerning the señoritas of +Uruguay, and yet not a line too much. Their own kith and kin have sung +their praises with all the tremendous hyperbole of which the Spanish +tongue is capable. White hands, bright eyes, raven hair, and a +corresponding remainder of features that resemble all pleasant things +from a dove to the moon--the collection of local prose and verse on +the subject is justifiably enormous. + +The Montevidean lady has now, of course, become essentially modern. +She rides in a motor-car, plays the piano instead of the guitar, and +has exchanged the old order in general for the new. Yet the same +vivacity, courage, and good looks remain--which is an excellent and +beneficial thing for Montevideo and its inhabitants. Indeed, the beach +of Poçitos or the sands of Ramirez shorn of their female adornment +would be too terrible a disaster to contemplate even on the part of +the most hardened Oriental. And at this point it is advisable to +forsake for the present the more intimate affairs of the people, +leaving the last word to the ladies, as, indeed, is only fitting--and +frequently inevitable. + +The majority of South American Republics--or rather of those in the +lower half of the continent--are keenly alive to the benefits of many +of the European methods and institutions. Although each of these +countries possesses a strong individuality of its own, the generality +of these younger nations have almost invariably shown themselves eager +to graft to their system foreign methods of organisation that have +stood the test of time and that have not been found wanting. + +Indeed, in matters of practical progress the citizen of the more +enlightened South American Republics is blessed with an unusually open +mind. This condition has naturally borne fruit in experiments, and it +is this very tendency to receptiveness that has frequently laid these +States open to accusations of irresponsibility. Often enough the +charge has proved entirely unjust, since it was based on nothing +beyond a too fervent outbreak into an experimental region from which +it was hoped to extract remedies and innovations that should tend to +the betterment of the Republic. + +The direction of the public services affords striking instances of the +kind. The navy, army, and police of the more progressive of the +republics are usually modelled on European patterns. The navy is +usually conducted on the English system, the army follows German +methods, and the police copies as closely as possible the +time-honoured principles of what is undoubtedly the finest force in +the world, the English constabulary. Uruguay follows this procedure +only in part. The kit of the troops here is of the French, rather than +the German, pattern; and although the naval uniforms throughout the +civilised world are all more or less alike, that of the Uruguayan does +not resemble the British as closely as do some others, notably that of +the Chilian. The costume of the Oriental police, however, helmet and +all, is almost exactly the counterpart of the British, although it +boasts the additional adornment of a sword and of spats. + +The work of the Uruguayan police, moreover, is to be commended for a +lack of officiousness and fussy methods. They are little concerned +with larceny, and with the similar forms of petty dishonesty, for the +nation, as a whole, is endowed with a strict sense of the sacredness +of property. The trait is to a large extent inherent in all the +nations of the River Plate; but in this instance it may well be that +it has become even more accentuated by the drastic methods of General +Artigas at the beginning of the nineteenth century, whose abhorrence +of theft and whose exemplary castigation of the crime may well have +left an impression that has endured for almost a century. + +I have already referred to the sobriety of the Uruguayan. Perhaps for +the reason that he is of a more openly jovial temperament he is +slightly more addicted to looking upon his native wine when it is red +than is the Argentine or Paraguayan. But the cases where this occurs +are isolated enough. Indeed, in the matter of sobriety the Uruguayan +can easily allow points to almost every European nation. The majority +of crimes that occur to the east of the River Plate are neither those +brought about by dishonesty nor drink. They are far more frequently +the result of differences of opinion and of old-standing feuds that +are avenged by the knife and revolver, for the Uruguayan, though +courteous to a degree, is quick to resent offence, more especially +when the umbrage given is brought about in the course of a political +discussion. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +ABORIGINAL TRIBES + + The population of Uruguay prior to the Spanish + conquest--Principal tribes--Paucity of information concerning the + early aboriginal life--The Charrúas--Warlike characteristics of + the race--Territory of the tribe--Stature and + physique--Features--The occupations of war and + hunting--Temperament mannerisms--A people on the nethermost rung + of the social ladder--Absence of laws and + penalties--Medicine-men--A crude remedy--The simplicity of the + marriage ceremony--Morality at a low ebb--The prevalence of + social equality--Method of settling private disputes--The + Charrúas as warriors--Tactics employed in warfare--Some grim + signals of victory--Treatment of the prisoners of war--Absence of + a settled plan of campaign--Arms of the Charrúas--Primitive + Indian weapons--Household implements--Burial rites--The + mutilation of the living out of respect for the dead--Some savage + ceremonies--Absence of religion--A lowly existence--Desolate + dwellings--Change of customs effected by the introduction of + horses--Indian appreciation of cattle--Improvement in the weapons + of the tribe--Formidable cavalry--The end of the Charrúas--Other + Uruguayan tribes--The + Yaros--Bohanes--Chanas--Guenoas--Minuanes--Arachanes. + + +At the time of the Spanish Conquest the territory which now +constitutes the Republic of Uruguay was peopled by about four thousand +Indians. These, however, did not form a single nation, but were +divided off into a number of tribes. The most important of these were +the Charrúas, Yaros, Bohanes, Chanas, and Guenoas. Each of these +groups possessed its own territory, and each was wont to exist in a +state of continued hostility with its neighbours. + +Nothing is known of the history of these folk previous to the arrival +of the Spaniard, and even during the earlier periods of the conquest +information is scanty enough, since contact between native and +European was confined almost entirely to warlike occasions, and since, +even when opportunity offered, the early colonists were neither +sufficiently adapted nor especially educated for the purpose. + +The Charrúas constituted the leading tribe of these aboriginal people. +They owed this ascendancy to their warlike spirit, and to their +comparatively large numbers. It was they who murdered Juan Diaz de +Solis, the discoverer of the Rio de la Plata, together with many of +his companions, and it was they, moreover, who offered the most +strenuous resistance to the colonising attempts of the Spaniards. + +The Charrúas, to the number of a couple of thousand, inhabited the +coast of the River Plate, and carried on a semi-nomadic existence +between Maldonado and the mouth of the River Uruguay, occupying a +region that extended inland for about ninety miles, its inner +frontiers running parallel with the coast-line. The stature of these +natives attained to middle height; they were robust, well built, and +usually free from that tendency to obesity which is the characteristic +of the Guarani Indians. As a race they were distinguished by rather +large heads, wide mouths, and flat noses. Their skin was unusually +dark, and in colour approached the complexion of the negro more nearly +than that of any other South American race. Peculiarly adapted to +resist hunger and fatigue, they were agile and swift of foot as became +those who existed principally on the deer and ostriches that they +hunted. It is said that their health was such that many attained to a +very advanced age. + +The character of these Indiana was essentially warlike and turbulent, +and they were remarkable for their passion for revenge and deceit. Of +a taciturn and apathetic temperament, they refused to submit to +discipline of any kind. They were, moreover, peculiarly averse to +outward display of any emotion. A laugh, for instance, would be +noiseless, signalled merely by a half-opening of the lips; +conversation was carried on in a low and unmodulated tone of voice, +and a true Charrúa would run a considerable distance to gain a +comrade's side rather than be under the necessity of shouting openly +to him. The sole occasions on which the exercise of patience would +seem to have come naturally to the race were those of hunting and of +scouting. A child of nature, with the faculties of hearing and sight +marvellously developed, the Charrúa became reticent and morose when +brought into contact with civilisation. + +[Illustration: ANCIENT STONES EMPLOYED FOR NUT-CRUSHING. +To face p. 140.] + +In social ethics these dwellers on the coast ranked low; indeed, their +place was amongst the lowest in the scale of tribes. Division either +of labour or of the spoils of war was unknown. Each hunted and fought +for his own hand alone, while the wife constructed a few rude utensils +and performed the duties of a slave. Their system knew neither laws, +punishments, nor rewards, and the only services that were wont to be +recompensed in any way were those of the medicine-men, whose natural +cunning was doubtless as superior to that of the rest as is the case +elsewhere. Nevertheless, these leeches seem to have been acquainted +with only one remedy. This was to suck with might and main at that +portion of the body beneath the surface of which an inward pain was +complained of. The marriage ceremony was confined to the obtaining of +the consent of the bride's parents. The state of wedlock, however, was +considered of some importance in the man, as it conferred on him +the right to go to war, and to take part in the councils of the tribe. + +Morality, as understood by the more advanced sections of humanity, was +at a low ebb. Wedlock was permitted an unnaturally liberal range and +licence. Not only was polygamy general, but marriages between brothers +and sisters were permitted, although it is related that their +occurrence was rather rare. Cases of monogamy, however, were not +unknown, and, whenever the opportunity offered, a wife would desert a +multi-spoused husband in order to take up her abode with a man who was +willing to accept her as his only wife. Conjugal faithlessness was +held to be an excusable failing; indeed, on the arrival of the +Spaniards, the men would frequently offer their wives to the Europeans +in return for some material advantage. + +Some evidence of that social equality that is so strongly a +characteristic of the tribes of the River Plate is to be met with +among the Charrúas. Such chiefs as existed were almost altogether +lacking in real power or authority. A leader, as a matter of fact, was +elected by the people merely in order to act in cases of emergency, +and his chieftainship, held on sufferance, was liable to be taken from +him on the coming to the front of a man held more suitable for the +post. It is a little curious to find that in so fierce a race private +quarrels were not adjusted by means of the crude arms of war that they +possessed. These disputes were fought out with the fists, and after a +satisfactory exchange of blows the matter was ended for good and all. + +Notwithstanding this sensible method of settling their individual +differences, the Charrúas were merciless in the wars waged against +neighbouring tribes or Spaniards. On the first outbreak of hostilities +they were wont to hide their women and children in the woods, after +which spies were immediately sent out to locate the position of the +enemy. This determined, it was usual to hold a council of war in the +evening, and to make a surprise attack at the first glimmerings of +dawn. The method of their onslaught was one calculated to terrify. +Dashing out of the semi-obscurity, they would make a furious charge, +uttering loud cries, the fierceness of which was supposed to be +accentuated by means of the warriors striking themselves continually +on the mouth. + +Women and young children captured in their attacks were taken back as +prisoners to the rude encampments of the conquerors, where they +afterwards received complete liberty, and became incorporated with the +tribe. No quarter, however, was shown to the men of the beaten force. +It is said by some of the early European adventurers who came into +contact with this fierce race that they were not only wont to scalp +their fallen enemies, but that each was accustomed to cut an incision +in his own body for every dead foeman whose body lay to the credit of +his prowess or cunning. Some doubt, nevertheless, is thrown upon the +existence of these habits, although they are affirmed by three rather +notable authorities, Barco, Lozano, and Azara. Fortunately for the +Spaniards, who discovered in the Charrúas by far the most dreaded +enemies that it was their lot to encounter in this part of South +America, these Indians were easily turned from a settled purpose or +plan of campaign. Thus they would lose many opportunities of pushing +home success, halting in an advance in order to celebrate a first +victory, and remaining on the ground for the purpose of marking the +occasion at length. + +The fact that these rude savages should have obtained victories over +the Spaniards by means of the crude arms that were known to them +speaks wonders for their bravery. Their choice of warlike implements +was no whit greater than that enjoyed by the lake-dwellers of the +Stone Age. Arrows, spears, clubs, and maces--all these were made up of +stone heads and wooden shafts. That which might be termed the +characteristic native weapon was the _bolas_, the pair of stone balls +attached to ostrich sinews or to some other contrivance of the kind. +These--as remains the case to the present day in other lands--were +employed as slings, and, for the purpose of entangling an enemy, were +the most dreaded implements of all. + +For the purposes of peace as well as for those of war the sole +materials available to the Charrúa for the fashioning of implements +were stone, wood, bone, and clay. Thus the household equipment was +wont to be confined to the most primitive types of knives, saws, +punches, hammers, axes, mortars, pestles, and roughly baked pottery. +It is certain that they used canoes, since they used to cross over to +the islands facing Maldonado, but nothing is known concerning the +particular build of these humble craft. + +Waged under such circumstances existence knew little glamour. Yet even +here certain ceremonial institutions obtained. The women, for example, +on attaining to adult age were accustomed to tattoo three stripes upon +their faces as a signal of the fact, while the men wore a certain kind +of headgear to bear a similar significance. On the death of a male, +the warrior was buried with his arms, usually on the summit of a small +hill. Later, when the luxury of domestic animals became known, the +rites grew more elaborate, and the dead man's horse was usually +sacrificed on the grave. + +In any case the occasion of a man's death was marked by +self-mutilation on the part of his wives and female relatives. These +would commence by cutting their fingers, weeping bitterly all the +while, and afterwards would take the spear of their deceased relative, +and with it would prick themselves in various parts of the body and +more especially in the arms, which were frequently pierced through and +through. Azara was privileged to witness a number of these painful +ceremonies, which must have been carried out with conscientious zeal, +since he remarks that of all the adult women that he saw none was +without mutilated fingers and numerous scars on the body. + +These methods of accentuating sorrow, however, were light when +compared with the tortures that adult sons were wont to inflict upon +themselves on the loss of their father. It was their duty first of all +to hide themselves, fasting, in their huts for two days. This +effected, it was customary to point a number of sticks and to transfix +the arms with these from the wrist to the shoulder, with an interval +of not more than an inch between each. In this porcupine-like +condition they proceeded either to a wood or to a hill, bearing in +their hands sharpened stakes. By means of these each would dig out a +hole in the earth sufficiently deep to cover him to the height of the +breast, and in this custom demanded him to remain during a whole +night. On the next day the mourners rose up from their uncomfortable +holes, and met together in a special hut that was set apart for the +ceremonial purposes. Here they pulled the sticks from their arms, and +remained for a fortnight, partaking of only the scantiest nourishment. +After which they were at liberty to rejoin their comrades, and to +resume the comparatively even tenor of their normal existence. + +The Charrúas afford one of the rare instances of a race who knew no +religion. They neither worshipped a benevolent divinity nor +endeavoured to propitiate a malignant spirit. They were, nevertheless, +superstitious up to a certain point, and dreaded to leave their huts +during the night. There is no doubt that some vague belief in an +after-existence must have been implanted in their lowly minds. +Although they do not seem ever to have referred openly to the belief, +the sole fact of the burial of the dead man's arms in the same grave +as the corpse is sufficient proof of their supposition that the +weapons would be needed in some half-imagined and dim place beyond. +But neither priest nor magician was in their midst to stimulate their +wonderings on the point. + +The highest degree of science or intellect, as a matter of fact, was +represented by the medicine-men with their simple and mistakenly +practical remedy. The race had no acquaintance with either music, +games, dancing, or with ordinary conversation as understood amongst +more civilised beings. In matters of personal adornment the Charrúas +were equally unsophisticated. A few ostrich feathers in the hair +constituted the beginning and the end of the men's costume; the sole +garment of the women was a loin-cloth. Of too dull a temperament to +discover even the simplest pleasures that the majority of races +contrive to extract from their existence, the sole luxury in which +these folk indulged was the bathing in the streams of the country. But +this recreation was limited to the midsummer months: during all the +other periods of the year they refrained entirely from ablutions. + +The point as to whether these benighted Indians were cannibals has +never been definitely cleared up. The charge of eating human flesh has +been brought against the tribe by a certain number of authorities. It +is stated, for instance, that the body of Juan Diaz de Solis, the +discoverer of the River Plate and one of the first victims of these +warriors, was consumed by the attacking party after his murder. But +the evidence is not clear in either this case or in any other of the +kind, although it is likely enough that they partook of the taste that +was shared by various tribes who inhabited the country to the north. +Their ordinary food, in any case, was the flesh of the deer and +ostrich, as well as fish. Their meals were frequently demolished in a +raw condition, doubtless of necessity, although they understood the +means of producing fire by the friction of wood. Vegetable food was +unknown to them, but they contrived to produce an intoxicating liquor +from the fermentation of wasps' honey mixed with water. + +A glance at the more intimate domestic life of these wild possessors +of so many strictly negative attributes may well complete a rather +desolate picture. The home of the Charrúa was on a par with the +remainder of his few belongings. A few branches, stuck into the earth +and bent towards a common centre, constituted the foundation; one or +two deer-skins placed on top of these formed the superstructure. These +dwellings, as a matter of fact, were no more crude than those of the +Patagonian natives, and little more so than the huts of the Chaco +Indians to the north-west, although the structures of both these +latter were--and still remain--thatched with grasses and vegetation in +the place of skins. In the case of the Charrúa the inner accommodation +was limited to a few square feet; but the confined space sufficed to +hold an ordinary member, although if the human units increased unduly, +a second hut was erected by the side of the first. For furniture, +there were the few crude household implements already mentioned, the +weapons of the men, and the deer-skin or two spread upon the ground to +serve as couches. + +It was in this manner that the Charrúas were accustomed to live when +the Spaniards, much to the rage of the original inhabitants, landed +upon their shores. From that time onwards their method of existence +underwent a change. With the introduction of horses they adopted the +habit of riding, and soon became extraordinarily proficient in all +equestrian arts, although their natural fleetness of foot suffered +inevitably during the process. The cattle that now roamed the Campo in +great numbers afforded them ample and easily obtained meals. Indeed, +although they may have had some legitimate cause for grievance, the +material benefits that the influx from Europe accorded the Indians +were enormous. + +Yet the hatred with which these fierce warriors of the Campo regarded +the white intruders tended with time to increase rather than diminish. +As a foe the Indian was far more formidable now than at the time of +the first encounters. Behold him on horseback, careering like the wind +across the pastures, armed with a deadly iron-tipped lance some +fourteen feet in length! For he had obtained the means now to fight +the _conquistadores_ with their own weapons, and even his arrows were +pointed with metal, although he still retained the homely stone in the +case of his ever efficient _bolas_. Thus he remained, immutably +fierce, alternately winning and losing the endless fights, but never +conquered nor enslaved for three centuries. At the end of that period, +in 1832, came the end of his race, and the small remnant was +practically annihilated. The fate of the last four of the Charrúas is +pathetically humorous, as illustrating what unsuspected ends a wild +community may be made to serve. Two men and two women, the sole +survivors of the unconquered warrior tribe, were sent across the ocean +to Paris, where they were placed on exhibition, and doubtless proved a +profitable investment. + +Having concluded with the Charrúas, the remaining aboriginal tribes +of Uruguay demand very little space by comparison. There were, +nevertheless, half a dozen minor groups that inhabited the other +portion of the land that is now Uruguay. + +The Yaros Indians occupied a small district on the south-western coast +of the country, and were a warlike race whose customs and manner of +existence much resembled those of the Charrúas. With this latter race +they were on terms of hostility, and only allied themselves with their +aboriginal neighbours for the occasional purpose of a joint attack +upon the Spaniards. At the beginning of the eighteenth century they +were to all intents and purposes exterminated by the more powerful +Charrúas, the few survivors joining the ranks of their conquerors. + +Little is known of the Bohanes, who occupied the coastal territory to +the north of the Yaros. They were likewise enemies of the Charrúas, +and in the end suffered partial extermination at the hands of the +latter tribe. It is said that a certain number escaped into Paraguay +and became absorbed amongst the Guarani inhabitants of the north. It +appears certain that, although this insignificant group could not +number much more than a hundred families, their language differed +entirely from the tongues of the neighbouring tribes. + +[Illustration: NATIVE "BOLEADORAS." +To face p. 148.] + +The Chanas were island-dwellers whose character contrasted rather +remarkably with that of the inhabitants of the mainland. When first +met with they were occupying the islands in the River Uruguay to the +north of the point where the Rio Negro joins the principal stream. A +race of peaceable and rather timid folk, they suffered not a little at +the hands of the more warlike tribes. Thus, when the Spaniards +occupied their native islands, the Yaros endeavoured to obtain a +footing on the western coast-line; but, driven from here by the +Charrúas, they found shelter in a collection of islets to the south +of those that had formed their first abode. They were more or less +expert fishers and watermen, and possessed a language of their own. +Many of their customs were akin to those of the Guarani Indians. Thus +when the bodies of their dead had been buried for a sufficiently long +time to lose all flesh, the skeletons would be dug up, painted with +grease and ochre, and then entered once again in company with their +ancestors. In the case of a dead child it was their custom to place +the body in a large earthenware urn which they filled with earth and +ochre, covering up the vessel with burnt clay. + +The Chanas lent themselves readily to civilisation. Towards the middle +of the seventeenth century they became converted to Christianity, and +in the beginning the Jesuit mission station of Soriano was peopled +almost entirely by members of this tribe. Of an intelligence and +temperament infinitely superior to that of the remaining tribes, they +mingled freely with the Spaniards after a while, and adopted European +manners and customs. The race disappeared eventually merely from the +force of absorption by marriage with their civilised neighbours. + +The Guenoas existed in the north-western portion of the country, +leading a semi-nomadic life. They were to be distinguished from the +Indians who dwelt to the south of their territory in that they were +amenable to discipline in their natural state. At their head were +recognised chiefs, or caciques, who appear to have exercised no little +authority. They were endowed, moreover, with a certain amount of +superstitious belief, and witch-doctors were to be found among them. +They had also learned the art of signalling from a distance by means +of bonfires. Although a warlike race, they were far more susceptible +than the Charrúas to outside influence. A portion of the tribe +eventually found refuge in the Jesuit missions, and the majority of +the males took service in the Spanish and Portuguese armies. + +The Minuanes occupied a territory to the east of the Guenoas, and in +physical appearance, manners, and customs closely resembled the +Charrúas, to such an extent, indeed, that the two tribes have +frequently been confused by writers. An error of the kind is natural +enough, since the two groups were wont to bind themselves in +hard-and-fast alliance in order to combat the Spaniards. The Minuanes, +however, were a trifle more advanced in some respects than their +southern allies. They were accustomed, for instance, to wear +loin-cloths, with the frequent addition of a skin flung across the +shoulders. Moreover, their hostility towards Europeans was undoubtedly +less deep-seated, since the Jesuits succeeded in incorporating them +for a while in one of their missions. The majority, it is true, soon +returned to their own wild life, but a certain number remained. + +The last tribe to be noticed is that of the Arachanes, a people of +Guarani origin who lived on the east coast between the ocean and the +great Lake Merim. Practically nothing is known of these folk. They +were dispersed and exterminated at the commencement of the seventeenth +century by the Brazilian mamelukes in the course of their raids from +San Paulo. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +MONTEVIDEO + + Population--Attributes of the city--Situation of the Uruguayan + capital--The Cerro--A comparison between the capitals of + Argentina and Uruguay--The atmosphere of Montevideo--A city of + restful activity--Comparatively recent foundation--Its origin an + afterthought--Montevideo in 1727--Homely erections--Progress of + the town--Advance effected within the last thirty years--The + Uruguayan capital at the beginning of the nineteenth + century--Some chronicles of the period--The ubiquity of + meat--Dogs and their food--Some curious account of the prevalence + of rats--The streets of old Montevideo--Their perils and + humours--A comparison between the butchers' bills of the past and + of the present--Some unusual uses for sheep--Methods in which the + skulls and horns of cattle were employed--Modern Montevideo--The + National Museum--An admirable institution--Theatres--Critical + Montevidean audiences--Afternoon tea establishments--The Club + Uruguay--The English Club--British community in the capital--Its + enterprise and philanthropy--The _Montevideo Times_--A feat in + editorship--Hotels--Cabs and public vehicles--The cost of + driving. + + +It may come as a surprise to many to learn that Montevideo, the +capital of Uruguay, possesses a population of almost four hundred +thousand inhabitants. By no means one of those centres that are +remarkable only for population, it holds almost every conceivable +attribute of a modern city--from boulevards and imposing public +buildings to plazas, statuary, and a remarkably extensive tramway +service. + +Montevideo is situated at a peculiarly advantageous point on the +Uruguayan shore. No student of geography, it is true, could point out +the exact limits of so immense a stream as the La Plata. Yet for all +practical purposes the capital of the Republic sits just beside this +very phenomenon. Thus it may be said that the eastern side of the town +faces the ocean, while the southern looks upon the River Plate. To +enter more fully into the geographical details of the spot, the chief +commercial and governmental districts cover a peninsula that juts well +out into the waters, thus forming the eastern extremity of the +semicircular bay of the actual port. Upon the ocean side of the +peninsula the shore recedes abruptly northwards for a short space, and +it is here that lie the pleasant inlets that are not a little famed as +pleasure resorts. + +At the riverward extremity of the port bay is a landmark that is +indelibly associated with Montevideo, whether viewed from sea or land. +The famous Cerro is a conical hill, surmounted by a fort that +dominates all the surrounding landscape. But of the Cerro, since for +various reasons it is a place of importance, more later. The capital +itself claims the right to prior notice, and to the rendering of a few +introductory facts. + +Since the distance between the chief town of either republic only just +exceeds a hundred miles, a comparison between Montevideo and Buenos +Aires is almost inevitable. Indeed, it has become something of a hobby +on the part of the Oriental who has visited the Argentine city, and +vice versâ. Fortunately, the comparison can be made without the +engendering of bad blood, since to a great extent that which the one +town lacks is possessed by the other. Thus, in the first place +Montevideo, although astonishingly thriving, is without the hastening +crowds and feverish hustle of the city across the waters. Again, +although its sheltered bay is yearly accommodating more and larger +vessels, the Oriental town is innocent of those many miles of docks +teeming throughout with steamers. Yet, on the other hand, it possesses +its rocks and shining sands of pleasure that draw the Argentines +themselves in shoals across the river. + +Indeed, the atmosphere of Montevideo is restful, and at the same time +free from the slightest taint of stagnation. Even the more modest +thoroughfares are comparatively broad, while the many new avenues are +spacious and well planned to a degree. Perhaps the keynote to the town +in these respects may be found in the fact that, although the absolute +dominion of the priests has long been a thing of the past, the sound +of the cathedral and church bells is audible above the hum of the +traffic. Even in the ears of the most ardent Protestant the effect is +not without its soothing and tranquillising properties. + +It is true that there have been some who, deceived by its peaceful +appearance, have altogether underrated the actual activity of the +city. As a matter of fact, the progress of Montevideo deserves far +wider recognition than it has obtained. The town represents something +of a babe even amongst the roll of comparatively youthful South +American cities. Its foundation, in 1726, indeed, was due to an +afterthought, following an expulsion of Portuguese who had landed at +the solitary spot and fortified it in the course of one of their later +expeditions. Thus Colonia had long afforded a bone of contention +between the two nations, and even Maldonado had provided several +battlefields ere the present capital was colonised or thought of. + +In 1727 the panorama of Montevideo could not well have been an +imposing one. At that time the place possessed no more than two +buildings of stone, although it could count forty others of hide. But +the erections of this homely and odorous material that in the +colonial days were made to serve almost every conceivable purpose +could have added very little to the æsthetic properties of the budding +settlement. Once established, however, the city grew apace, and in due +course the natural advantages of its position raised its status to +that of the premier urban centre of the land. + +But, although Montevideo flourished and increased for rather more than +a century and a half, its leap into complete modernism has only been +effected within the last thirty years. In this respect it has only +followed the example of the important cities of the neighbouring +republics. Thus, in 1807, when its ninetieth birthday was marked by +the British occupation, the accounts of numerous foreign visitors to +the place testify to its primitive state, although all agree that in +the main the capital was a pleasant spot. + +That the streets of the period were badly paved it is not surprising +to hear, since, owing to many obstacles, the art of accurate paving is +one of the very last that has filtered through to South America in +general. On the other hand, it is admitted that the thoroughfares were +well lit. Amongst the more disagreeable peculiarities were some for +which the butcher's trade was responsible. + +In a country of oxen the superabundance of meat was made only too +evident. "Oftentimes," says an English chronicler of the period, "when +a particular piece of meat is wanted, the animal is killed, and after +cutting out the desired part, without taking off the skin, the +remainder of the carcass is thrown to the dogs, or left to rot in the +streets." After this the author proceeds to make a startling +statement: "Almost every animal is fed on beef: from this circumstance +pork and poultry bought casually in the market, and which has not been +purposely fattened, are tinctured with a very ancient and beef-like +taste." The first part of this piece of information is undoubtedly +accurate; but to what extent the latter is the result of imagination +or of fact it is perhaps best not to investigate too closely. +According to this theory, some of the plainest of joints must have +contained in themselves the elements of several courses, with a +species of menagerie meal as a consequence! + +In any case, it is well known that the effect of this abundant meat +diet upon the prowling dogs of the town was to render them savage and +dangerous to the casual passer-by, who frequently had to defend +himself as best he might from their attacks. The extraordinary +prevalence of rats from similar causes is confirmed by other authors, +Uruguayan as well as English. The brothers Robertson, who are +responsible for such an excellent description of Paraguay at that +period, have some curious experiences to relate concerning this +visitation. Both received much hospitality at the hands of their +Uruguayan friends. "The only drawback," writes one of them, "upon the +delightful way in which I now spent my evenings was the necessity of +returning home through long, narrow streets so infested with voracious +rats as to make it perilous sometimes to face them. There was no +police in the town, excepted that provided by the showers of rain, +which, at intervals, carried off the heaps of filth from the streets. +Around the offal of carrion, vegetables, and stale fruit which in +large masses accumulated there, the rats absolutely mustered in +legions. If I attempted to pass near these formidable banditti, or to +interrupt their meals and orgies, they gnashed their teeth upon me +like so many evening [ravening?] wolves ... sometimes I fought my way +straight home with my stick; at others I was forced to fly down some +cross and narrow path or street, leaving the rats undisturbed masters +of the field." + +No doubt had a militant vegetarian of the period found his way to +Montevideo he might have pointed out many object-lessons in favour of +a lesser carnal devotion. On the other hand, it is lamentable that the +cheap value at which carcasses were then held has not continued to +prevail to this day. To the small population of a hundred years ago +meat seemed to grow as easily as grass-blades, and the uses to which +it was wont to be put seem astonishing enough in an era of butchers' +bills and shilling steaks. + +Since until comparatively recent years in the River Plate Provinces +mutton has been held unworthy of even a beggar's acceptance, the +carcasses of the sheep suffered the most ignominious end of all. +Amongst the other means they were made to serve, the animals were +driven to the brick-kilns, slaughtered upon the spot, and their bodies +flung into the ovens to feed the fires. As for the cattle, their +skulls and horns were everywhere. Prepared by the foregoing for +revelations of general utility, it is not surprising to read that +houses as well as fence-lines were frequently constructed from such +tragic material. + +Such reminiscences of the past, however, have drawn the trail too far +aside from the modern city of Montevideo, where dogs are subject to +police regulations, and the rat is scarce, and meat as dear as +elsewhere. As for the town itself, it has sprung up afresh, and +renewed itself yet once again since the colonial days. Indeed, the +sole buildings of importance that remain from the time of the Spanish +dominion are the cathedral and Government palace. + +[Illustration: SOLIS THEATRE AND NATIONAL MUSEUM.] + +[Illustration: THE CERRO FORT. +To face p. 156.] + +The national museum at Montevideo is both well represented and amply +stocked. It is a place into which the average foreigner enters with +sufficient rarity, which is rather lamentable, since a very varied +local education is to be derived from its contents. Uruguayan art, +natural history, geology, literature, and historical objects all find +a place here. The collection of primitive Indian utensils, and of +_bolas_, the round stones of the slings, is unique. It is said that in +the case of the latter, which have been brought together from all +districts, almost every species of stone that exists in the country is +to be met. + +The historical objects here, moreover, are of great interest to one +who has followed the fluctuating fortunes of the country. The early +uniforms and weapons of the Spaniards, the costumes and long lances of +the first struggling national forces, and a host of other exhibits of +the kind are assisted by a considerable collection of contemporary +local pictures and drawings. Many of the earlier specimens of these +are exceedingly crude, but none the less valuable for that, since the +battle scenes are depicted with much the same rough vigour that +doubtless characterised their actual raging. + +In the gallery devoted to Uruguayan painters there is at least one +picture that is remarkable for its power and realism, the work of a +famous modern artist, representing a scene in the great plague +visitation that the capital suffered. It is a little curious that in +the rooms where hang the specimens of European art the biblical +paintings of some of the old Italian masters should be hung side by +side with modern productions of the lightest and most Gallic tendency; +but it is quite possible that this may have been done with intention +in support of the propaganda against the influence of Church and +religion that has now become so marked throughout South America. In +any case, the custom is one that does not obtain in Montevideo alone. +The taxidermic portion of the museum is exceedingly well contrived, +and the entire institution, with its competent staff, under the +direction of Professor José Arechavaleta, is worthy of all praise. + +With social institutions of all kinds Montevideo is amply provided. +The theatres are well constructed, well patronised, and frequently +visited by some of the most efficient companies in existence. It is +true that, owing to the difference in the size of the two towns, +Montevideo usually obtains the tail-end of a visit the most part of +which has been spent in Buenos Aires. But such matters of precedence +do not in the least affect the merits of the various performances. +Both actors and musicians here, moreover, have to deal with an +audience that is at least as critical as any that its larger neighbour +can provide. + +One of the evidences of Montevideo's modernity is to be found in its +afternoon-tea establishments. Unfortunately, the name of the principal +one of these places has escaped me, so that it must receive its meed +of praise in an anonymous fashion. It is certainly one of the +daintiest specimens of its kind that can be conceived both as regards +decoration and the objects of light sustenance that justify its +existence. As a teashop it is a jewel with an appropriate pendant--a +tiny coal-black negro boy official at the door, whose gorgeous +full-dress porter's uniform renders him a much-admired toy of +humanity. + +The chief and most imposing of the capital's clubs is the Club Uruguay +that looks out upon the Plaza Matriz, the main square. The premises +here are spacious and imposing, and the club is quite of the first +order. The membership is confined almost entirely to the Uruguayans of +the better classes, although it includes a small number of resident +foreigners. The English Club is situated on the opposite side of the +same square, and is an extremely cosy and well-managed institution +that sustains to the full all the traditions of the English clubs +abroad. + +The English community in the capital is fairly numerous, and is in +closer touch with its Uruguayan neighbours than is the case with the +majority of such bodies in other South American countries. The +enterprise and philanthropy of the colony are evident in many +directions. It has long possessed a school and a hospital of its own; +but subscriptions have now been raised for the erection of a larger +and more modern hospital building, to be situated in pleasant +surroundings on the outskirts of the town. A great part of the credit +for this, as for many other similar undertakings, is undoubtedly due +to Mr. R.J. Kennedy, the British Minister. + +The English Colony is represented journalistically by a daily paper, +the _Montevideo Times_, a sheet of comparatively modest dimensions +that is very ably edited and conducted. Indeed, the record of Mr. W.H. +Denstone, the editor, must be almost unique in the history of +journalism all the world over. For a period that, I believe, exceeds +twenty years the production, in journalese language, has been "put to +bed" beneath his personal supervision, and not a number has appeared +the matter of which has not come directly from his hands. As a +testimony, not only to industry but to a climate that permits such an +unbroken spell of labour, surely the feat is one to be cordially +acclaimed in Fleet Street! + +The Montevideo hotels, although there is much to be said in their +favour, are comparatively modest in size, and somewhat lacking in +those most modern attributes that characterise many in other large +towns of South America, and even those in the pleasure resorts on the +outskirts of the Uruguayan capital itself. The best known is the +Lanata, situated in the Plaza Matriz. But I cannot recommend the +Lanata with any genuine degree of enthusiasm. The Palacio Florida, a +new hotel in the Calle Florida, is, I think, the most confidently to +be recommended of any in the capital. The tariff here is strictly +moderate, the service good, and the place is blessed with the distinct +advantage of a very pleasant lounge on each floor. + +In many respects Montevideo, although its scale of expenses is rising +rapidly, still remains a place of cheaper existence than Buenos Aires. +But not in the matter of its cabs and public vehicles. The hooded +victoria of the Argentine capital is frequently replaced here by the +landau, and on a provocation that may not have exceeded half a mile +the piratical driver will endeavour to extract a dollar--the +equivalent of four shillings and twopence--from his victimised +passenger. The reason for this ambitious scale of charges no doubt +lies in the fact that the Montevidean is very little addicted to +driving in cabs, of which vehicles, indeed, the very excellent tramway +service of the city renders him more or less independent. Thus, as the +solvent person is said to bear the burden of the tailor's bad debts, +the economies of those who ride in Montevidean tramcars are visited +upon the pockets of those others who patronise the cabs. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +Montevideo--_continued_ + + The surroundings of the capital--Pleasant resorts--The Prado--A + well-endowed park--Colón--Aspects of the suburbs--Some charming + quintas--A wealth of flowers and vegetation--European and + tropical blossoms side by side--Orchards and their fruits--The + cottages of the peasants--An itinerant + merchant--School-children--Methods of education in Uruguay--The + choice of a career--Equestrian pupils--The tramway route--Aspect + of the village of Colón--Imposing eucalyptus avenues--A country + of blue gum--Some characteristics of the place--Flowers and + trees--Country houses--The Tea Garden Restaurant--Meals amidst + pleasant surrounding--An enterprising establishment--Lunch and + its reward--Poçitos and Ramirez--Bathing-places of the + Atlantic--Blue waters compared with yellow--Sand and rock--Villa + del Cerro--The steam ferry across the bay--A town of mixed + buildings--Dwelling-places and their materials--The ubiquitous + football--Aspects of the Cerro--Turf and rock--A picturesque + fort--Panorama from the summit of the hill--The guardian of the + river mouth--The last and the first of the mountains. + + +The Uruguayan's appreciation of pleasant Nature is made abundantly +clear in the surroundings of the capital. The city, as a matter of +fact, is set about with quite an exceptional number of pleasant +resorts both inland and upon the shore. Of the former the Prado park +and the pleasure suburb of Colón are the best known. The Prado is +reached within half an hour from the centre of the city by means of +tramway-car. Situated on the outskirts of the town, the park is very +large and genuinely beautiful. Groves of trees shading grassy slopes, +beds of flowers glowing by the sides of ponds and small lakes, walks, +drives, and sheltered seats--the place possesses all these commendable +attributes, and many beyond. + +The Montevidean is very proud of the Prado, and he has sufficient +reason for his pride. He has taken a portion of the rolling country, +and has made of the mounds and hills the fairest garden imaginable. +The place would be remarkable if for nothing more than the great +variety and number of its trees, both Northern and subtropical. But +here this fine collection forms merely the background for the less +lofty palms, bamboos, and all the host of the quainter growths, to say +nothing of the flowering shrubs and the land and water blossoms. One +may roam for miles in and out of the Prado vegetation, only to find +that it continues to present fresh aspects and beauties all the while. + +The expedition to Colón is a slightly more serious one, since, the +spot being situated some eight miles from the centre of the town, the +journey by tramcar occupies an hour or so. As much that is typical of +the outskirts of Montevideo is revealed by the excursion, it may be as +well to describe it with some detail. + +[Illustration: THE BEACH AT PARQUE URBANO.] + +[Illustration: THE SAN JOSE ROAD BRIDGE. +To face p. 162.] + +It is only when once fairly launched upon a journey of the kind that +the true extent of Montevideo and the length of its plane-shaded +avenues proper become evident. Nevertheless, as the car mounts and +dips with the undulation of the land, the unbroken streets of houses +come to an end at length, giving way to the first _quintas_--the +villas set within their own grounds. The aspect of these alone would +suffice to convince the passing stranger of the real wealth of the +capital. Of all styles of architecture, from that of the bungalow to +the more intricate structure of many pinnacles and eaves, many of them +are extremely imposing in size and luxurious to a degree. A moral to +the new-comer in Montevideo should certainly be: Own a quinta in +the suburbs; or, if you cannot, get to know the owner of a quinta in +the suburbs, and stay with him! + +But if you would see these surroundings of Montevideo at their very +best, it is necessary to journey there in October--the October of the +Southern hemisphere, when the sap of the plants is rising to +counterbalance its fall in the North. The quintas then are positive +haunts of delight--nothing less. Their frontiers are frequently marked +by blossoming may, honeysuckle, and rose-hedges, while bougainvillæa, +wistaria, and countless other creepers blaze from the walls of the +houses themselves. + +As for the gardens, they have overflowed into an ordered riot of +flower. The most favoured nooks of Madeira, the _Midi_ of France, and +Portugal would find it hard to hold their own in the matter of +blossoms with this far Southern land. Undoubtedly, one of the most +fascinating features here is the mingling of the hardy and homely +plants with the exotic. Thus great banks of sweet-scented stock will +spread themselves beneath the broad-leaved palms, while the bamboo +spears will prick up lightly by the ivy-covered trunk of a Northern +tree--a tree whose parasite is to be marked and cherished, for ivy is, +in general, as rare in South America as holly, to say nothing of +plum-pudding, though it is abundant here. Spreading bushes of lilac +mingle their scent with the magnolia, orange, myrtle, and mimosa, +until the crowded air seems almost to throb beneath the simultaneous +weight of the odours. Then down upon the ground, again, are +periwinkles, pansies, and marigolds, rubbing petals with arum-lilies, +carnations, hedges of pink geranium, clumps of tree-marguerites, and +wide borders of cineraria. From time to time the suggestions of the +North are strangely compelling. Thus, when the heavy flower-cones of +the horse-chestnut stand out boldly next to the snow-white circles of +the elder-tree, with a grove of oaks as a background, it is with +something akin to a shock that the succeeding clumps of paraiso and +eucalyptus-trees, and the fleshy leaves of the aloe and prickly-pear +bring the traveller back to reality and the land of warm sunshine. + +But it is time to make an end to this long list of mere growths and +blossoms. The others must be left to the imagination, from the green +fig-bulbs to the peach-blossom and guelder-roses. Let it suffice to +say that a number of these gardens are many acres in extent, and that +you may distribute all these flowers--and the far larger number that +remain unchronicled--in any order that you will. + +As the open country appears in the wider gaps left between the remoter +quintas, and the space between the halting-places of the tram is +correspondingly lengthened, the speed of a car becomes accelerated to +a marked degree. The cottages that now appear at intervals at the side +of the road are trim and spotlessly white. They are, almost without +exception, shaded by the native ombú-tree, and are surrounded with +trelliswork of vines and with fig-trees, while near by are fields of +broad beans and the extensive vineyards of commerce. + +Along the road a rider is proceeding leisurely, a large wooden pannier +jutting out from either side of his saddle. This bulky gear, that +lends such a swollen appearance to the advancing combination of man +and horse, denotes a travelling merchant of humble status. What he +carries within the pair of boxes there is no outward evidence to tell. +Their contents may be anything from vegetables or chickens to +scissors, knives, or sweetstuffs. Since, however, he has now drawn +rein by the side of one of the white cottages, his wares almost +certainly do not comprise the first two, for the market for such lies +within Montevideo proper. By the time, however, that the lids of the +panniers have been raised and the bargaining has commenced the car has +sped far onwards, and has dropped him from sight. Thus the business of +the travelling merchant--like that of the majority of passers-by--remains +but half understood. + +But here, at all events, comes a group of riders of another kind, +whose purpose is clear. Half a dozen small boys and bareheaded girls, +mounted upon disproportionately tall ponies, are jogging along on +their way to school. Uruguay prides itself, with no little reason, +upon the efficiency of its system of education, and the humblest hut +now sends forth its human mites to absorb the three R's and to be +instilled with patriotically optimistic versions of their country's +past. These rudiments mastered, they need not necessarily halt in +their scholastic career, since, according to the laws of the land, a +professorship is open eventually to the most lowly student who +persists for sufficient time. And Uruguay is undoubtedly a nest of +opportunities. An embryo statesman or learned doctor may be +represented by each of the urchins who are now plodding onwards with +serious intent through the dust! + +In the meanwhile the car has won its way fairly out into the open +country, always green, smiling, and thickly shot with the pink of +peach-blossoms. The rails have now drawn well away from the centre of +the road, and are separated from the actual highway by a grassy space. +Stirred by the importance of possessing a track all to itself, the car +is undoubtedly aspiring to the rank of a railway train, and goes +rushing at a really formidable pace upon its verdure-embedded lines. +Swaying over the shoulders of the land, past plantations, lanes, and +hedges, it plunges onwards in grim earnest to the terminus of the line +at Colón itself. + +The actual village of Colón gives little indication of the nature of +the district. The railway-station, shops, and houses are all +pleasantly situated, it is true, and the restaurants and +pleasure-gardens are unusually numerous. The attractions of the place, +however, lie well outside the central nucleus of buildings. From this +some remarkably imposing eucalyptus avenues lead outwards into the +favourite haunts of the Montevidean when on pleasure bent. + +Undoubtedly the most salient feature of Colón is the eucalyptus. +Indeed, the place primarily consists of mile upon mile of these +stately avenues, fringed by blue gums of an immense size. Bordering +these magnificent highways, that cross each other at right angles, are +country houses here and there that are reproductions of those in the +suburbs of Montevideo. In between the avenues, again, are clumps and +small forests of eucalyptus, whose tops soar high up in tremendously +lofty waves, that enclose vineyards, peach-orchards, and olive-tree +plantations. + +Here and there are lanes walled in by mounting hedges of honeysuckle +and rose, while many of the private grounds are guarded by the +impassable lines of aloe. Add to this basis all the other trees, +shrubs, and flowers that have already been passed on the outward +journey, and you have the main attributes of Colón. + +[Illustration: EUCALYPTUS AVENUE: COLÓN. +To face p. 166.] + +Since the topic of the inner man appeals at least as much to the +Uruguayan as to any other mortal, there are some very pleasant +restaurants set in the midst of this land of eucalyptus. Perhaps the +best and prettiest of these is one known by the very English name of +the Tea Garden Restaurant. One of the chief peculiarities of the place +is that tea is actually partaken of there from time to time, as the +modern Oriental is beginning to accord this cosmopolitan beverage a +recognised place by the side of coffee and his own native Yerba Maté. + +At the Tea Garden Restaurant it is possible to lunch by the side of a +lake, with ripening grape-bunches above to throw their reflections in +the soup, and with the falling petals of orange-blossom floating +daintily past the steaming cutlets, while the music of the ducks +blends admirably with the clatter of the table weapons. With really +good cooking and attentive service added to these side attractions, +what more could one want! + +But the proprietors of the restaurant are nothing if not enterprising. +They give the wayfarer something even beyond an excellent meal. At the +end of the repast each guest is presented with a ticket that entitles +him to a free cab-ride to the tramway terminus. The idea is admirable. +Nothing is wanting but the cabs! At all events, when I had concluded +lunch there the surface of the fine avenue was innocent of any +vehicle, and continued so until the walk to the car was accomplished. +But the courtesy of the offer had been effectual, and a certain sense +of obligation remained. + +The bathing-places of Poçitos and Ramirez are akin in many respects to +these inland resorts. By the side of the sea here are fewer blossoms +and rather smaller eucalyptus groves, but a greater number of open-air +restaurants and one or two quite imposing hotels. Indeed, Ramirez, the +nearer of the two, is endowed with a really fine casino, that faces +the shoreward end of the pier, and that has by its side the spacious +and well-timbered public park. + +Poçitos occupies the next bay, and is notable for its lengthy +esplanade and for the very pleasant houses that give upon the +semicircular sweep. This bay, moreover, is the first that has, so to +speak, turned its back upon the river and has faced the open ocean. +As a token, the waters are tinged with a definite blue, and the air +holds a genuine sting of salt that rapidly dies away when passing +up-stream away from here. To the Buenos Airen, who enthusiastically +patronises the place, Poçitos is delightful, if for no other reason +than the sense of contrast to his own surroundings that it affords +him. Not that he has any reason to grumble at the river frontier of +the rich alluvial soil, from out of which his fortunes have been +built. But here, in place of the soft, stoneless mud, is bright sand, +and genuine rocks, piled liberally all over the shore, that shelter +crabs, and pools that hold fish of the varieties that refuse to +breathe in any other but guaranteed salt water. So it is that the +summer season sees the long rows of tents and bathing machines crowded +and overflowing with the Uruguayans and the host of visitors from +across the river. + +Both Ramirez and Poçitos are within the range of the ubiquitous +tramcar. But this very efficient service, not content with its +excursion of half a dozen miles and more on the ocean side of +Montevideo, runs in the opposite direction completely round the port +bay, and performs the yet more important journey to Villa del Cerro, +the small town that lies at the foot of the hill that is so closely +associated with Montevideo and its affairs. A far shorter route to +this latter place, however, is by the busy little steam ferry that +puffs straight across the bay, and that starts faithfully at every +hour, as promised by the timetable, although, if that hour coincides +with the one specified, the event may be accepted as a fortunate +accident. + +Its most patriotic inhabitant could not claim loveliness for Villa del +Cerro. The existence of the spot is mainly due to the presence of some +neighbouring _saladeros_, or meat-curing factories, and thus the +small town presents the aspects of the more humble industrial centres. +There are two or three regular streets, it is true, that contain a few +houses with some faint pretensions to importance. Upon the balconies +of these the local señoritas are wont to gather of an evening. They +are obviously a little starved in such matters as romance, and a +little fearful lest their eye language should lose its eloquence +through too long a disuse. Thus the advent of any passing stranger +whatever suffices to cause a certain flutter and excitement in the +balconies above. + +Outside these main streets the pattern of the town has been left much +to the discretion of its most lowly inhabitants. Buildings composed of +unexpected material sprout up from the earth in unexpected places. +Earth, boards, tin, and fragments of stone are amongst the commonest +of these, although there are a certain number, stiffened by bricks, +whose comparatively commonplace exterior looks smug and respectable by +the side of the rest. + +Mounting upwards, the architecture of the outskirts comes as something +of a relief, since its simplicity is crude and absolute to the point +of excluding any jarring possibilities. + +The ranchos here are composed of nothing beyond loose fragments of +rock piled one on top of the other, with an odd hole here and there +that serves for window or door, frequently for both. + +At one point in the midst of these primitive stone dwellings a small +group of scantily clothed boys are playing football, the implement of +their game being an old sheepskin rolled into the nearest imitation to +a globe to which its folds will consent and held together roughly with +string--one more instance of the spreading triumph of football, that +wonderful game that seems to conquer its surroundings and to implant +itself firmly throughout the world entire. + +The turf slopes of the Cerro itself are all about one now. From the +distance they had appeared of an unbroken green, but when actually +approached the broken patches of bare rock upon their surface become +evident. The last of the stone shanties are not only contrived upon +one of these, but constructed from the very site upon which they +repose. The result is a difficulty to distinguish between the natural +rock and the habitable flakes. + +The short turf of the wind-swept Cerro is innocent of blossoms save +for the ubiquitous verbena, a few stunted tobacco flowers, and some +other lowly blooms. Upon the very summit, where the rock breaks out +boldly and piles itself in jagged heaps, is a picturesque fort, from +the midst of whose walls of solid masonry rises the dome of the light +that guides the ships into the harbour below. + +The panorama that opens itself out from this point is not a little +remarkable. On the one side lies the bay of Montevideo, thickly dotted +with its steamers and sailing vessels, with the towers and streets of +the capital spreading far inland upon the opposite shore. Beyond this, +again, are the undulations of the hills, the coastline, and the ocean +that shines brilliantly, although it is only dimly blue. On the other +hand stretches the River Plate, whose waters are deepening their +yellow as they extend towards the landless horizon, beneath which lies +Buenos Aires and Argentina. + +The Cerro guards the entrance to the great river. It is the first true +hill upon its banks--and the last, for over a thousand miles. For the +next of its kind signals the approach to Asuncion--beyond Argentina +and far beyond the Banda Oriental--in far-away Paraguay. And much +water flows between the tropical heat of Asuncion and the cool +freshness of this Cerro. Therefore the place is worthy of mark as the +southernmost of the two widely separated sentinel hills that guard +such different climes. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +FROM MONTEVIDEO TO THE NORTHERN FRONTIER + + Leaving Montevideo--General aspects of the Campo--The Rio Negro + as a line of demarcation--Growing exuberance of the + scenery--_Flor morala_--Blue lupin--Camp flowers--A sparsely + populated countryside--Absence of homesteads--A soft + landscape--Humble ranchos--Cattle and horses--Iguanas and + ostriches--Deer--Cardoso--Influence of climate and marriage upon + the colonists--A cheese-making centre--A country of + table-lands--A Campo load--Some characteristics of the way--A + group of riders--Some contrasts--A country of rocks--Stone + walls--Crude homesteads--Kerosene tins as building + material--"Camp" stations--The carpets of blossom--Piedra + Sola--Tambores--Landscape and nomenclature--Increase in the + height of the table-lands--Scenes at a country station--Aspects + of the inhabitants--Some matters of complexion--The train and its + transformation--Influence of the country upon the + carriages--Northern passengers--Metropolitan and local + costume--Some questions of clothes and figure--Relations between + mistresses and maids--Democratic households--A patriarchal + atmosphere--Things as they seem, and as they are--Conversation no + guide to profession. + + +A journey from south to north through the heart of Uruguay reveals an +infinitely greater variety of landscape and humanity than is suspected +by the dwellers in the better known littoral districts of the land. It +is true that for the purpose the employment of the homely and +convenient railway train is essential. Although it has been my good +fortune to drive for day after day and for league upon league through +lesser areas of the Uruguayan Campo, to cover such a lengthy stretch +as this by means of coach and horses is only possible for him who can +afford the supreme luxury of ignoring time. + +The first portion of the journey, moreover, although far from +wearisome in the circumstances, is effected across a landscape almost +every league of which presents the exact replica of its neighbours. +Once clear of the woods, fields, vineyards, orchards, and flowers that +lie so pleasantly to the landward side of Montevideo, the rolling +grass waves of the Campo come to stretch themselves from horizon to +horizon, rising and dipping with a ceaseless regularity of sweep until +it becomes difficult to believe that the entire world itself is not +composed of these smiling folds of land. + +It is not until nearly three hundred kilometres have been traversed, +and the train has rumbled over the long bridge that spans the Rio +Negro that the first symptoms of a changing scenery become evident. +The undulations have become less regular, and the hill-tops are +soaring higher into the sky-line. Indeed, the tendency throughout is +towards an exuberance that has been hitherto lacking. Thus not only +the outbreaks of stone that scar the hill-faces at intervals are +bolder in character now, but the wealth of field flowers, too, has +grown in extent and brilliance. + +A broad, glowing bank of the purple _flor morala_ lines the railway +track on either hand, pricking across the landscape in twin unbroken +bands of colour. Where the loftier flower ceases, the red, white, and +mauve of the verbena clings closely to the turf. At longer intervals +sprout clumps of blue lupin blossom, while the white mallows, +harebells, and tobacco flowers lurk thickly in between the groves of +thistle, and large yellow marguerites and daisies mingle with a +variegated host of blooms. + +The countryside is as sparsely populated as elsewhere. League upon +league of the great rolling sweeps of the land spread their panorama +unflecked by a single homestead. So far as the mere picturesque is +concerned, the result is admirable. The soft, dreamy landscape is at +its very best when unburdened by human habitation. Yet in such cases +the picturesque becomes a luxury won at the expense of the practical. +Undoubtedly from the green background of the pastures should shine out +the white walls of estancia-houses and ranchos. The time is now +probably near enough when such will actually be the case; but in the +meanwhile the land waits in complacent patience, sprouting out its +grassy covering with contemptuous ease. + +Yet it must not be imagined that the landscape, however lonely, is +altogether deserted. Now and then may be discerned the clump of trees +that stand out like islands from the sea to shelter the dwellings of +the owners of these great areas of soil. At long intervals, too, +springs up a hedge of tall cactus that flanks the humble rancho, whose +tin roof, as often as not, is held down in its place by means of small +boulders--a feature of architecture that recalls the châlets of +Switzerland, although it is certain enough that the respective +buildings have nothing else in common. + +Here and there graze the dumb supporters of the homesteads--herds of +cattle, troops of horses, and flocks of sheep. These districts of the +centre have not yet attained to the standard of breeding that +characterises the lands that fringe the great rivers to the south and +west. Thus, the cattle, although sufficiently fat and sleek, lack the +finish of the more aristocratic Hereford. Shaggy of coat, long of +horn, and exhibiting an utter lack of restraint in the strangely +varied colour scheme of their bodies, they are essentially of the +_criollo_, or native, order. + +In the neighbourhood of these licensed occupiers of the pastures are +others whose existence is more precarious. These are hares who race +away at the advent of a train, and iguanas whose long tails stream +behind them as they depart in a flurry. As for the ostriches, they +have obviously come to the conclusion that their life is too short and +their neck too long for any excitement of the kind. They are plainly +bored by the advent of this noisy invention of man, and regard it +languidly from the height of the two long legs that repose in a +supercilious attitude. + +On through the undulating Campo, where the rain pools lie like dew +ponds upon an English South Down, and where the banks of the +intermittent streams of the cañadas thread in and out of the green +grass for all the world like the bodies of black snakes. A company of +deer are feeding peacefully in the distance, intermingled with the +bulky members of a herd of cattle with whom the wild creatures have +condescended to associate for the time being. + +The train has pulled up at Cardoso now, the centre of a district that +is considerably more populous than the majority. The place was once +the site of a German colony, and indeed the sole reasons why it does +not remain so to this day must be laid at the doors of climate, +surroundings, intermarriage, and the influence of all three. As it is, +chastened by the all-powerful atmosphere of the spot, Teutonic +features, customs, and language have already become modified almost to +the extinction of the original type. + +The phenomenon affords only one more of the innumerable instances of +the tremendous power of absorption that is latent in the South +American continent. In contrast to the mutability of all things +intrinsically human, the industry of the community remains the same as +when the first colonists, strangers and foreigners, introduced it to +the spot. Cheese-making is still the staple trade of Cardoso, and the +district is not a little famed for the art. + +This particular neighbourhood, however, is to be noted for something +of more enduring importance than cheese. It is here, indeed, that the +soil of the land, after many tentative swellings, each more ambitious +than the last, takes upon itself to change its outline in a determined +and conclusive fashion. The universal, gentle swell of the undulations +has given way to steeper walls of green surmounted by curiously level, +flat surfaces. Thus the face of the Campo is now dotted, so far as the +eye can reach, with a collection of table-lands, each separate and +differing slightly from the rest in the details of its pattern, but +each marvellously distinct and clearly cut. The feature is +characteristic of central northern Uruguay, and is continued well +beyond the frontier into Brazil. + +Obeying the sociable instinct that so frequently links the railway +line with the highway in these parts of the world, the main road runs +close alongside the locomotive track. Where it goes the dark, rich +soil gleams moistly in every dip, and each cup in the land holds its +pool, for heavy rains have preceded the brilliant sunshine of the day. + +For many leagues the broad surface of the way has been broken by +nothing beyond the inevitable attributes of such thoroughfares--the +occasional pathetic heap that stands for the dead body of a horse or +cow, or the bleaching framework of bones that gleam out sharply after +the vultures' and caranchos' feast. But here at length comes a body of +riders, half a dozen Gauchos, enveloped in ponchos of various +patterns, who are pricking onwards at the easy canter that renders the +conquest of any space whatever a question of mere time. + +Thudding over the hill-tops, splashing through the mud-holes below, +the progress of the grim, silent centaurs is as inevitable and +certain as the presence of the knives at their belts or the maté-bowl +slung by the saddles. Then the train has sped ahead, dragging after it +a world of its own as remote from the atmosphere that surrounds the +six diminishing horsemen as is the clank of the engine from the light +jingling of the silvered bridles. + +The crop of stone upon the land has become more prolific. The rock has +come to adorn the sides of the table-lands more especially, breaking +out with precision at the spot where each slope of the green eminences +starts out abruptly from the level, after which it continues, +unbroken, to the summit. The material, however, has been made to serve +for purposes of utility, and here and there are corrals and walls of +loosely piled stones, a novel sight to one who is working his way +upwards from the south. + +The scarce ranchos, however, continue on much the same pattern that +has characterised them throughout the journey. The crudeness of many +of these is scarcely to be excelled in any part of the world. To +imagine an edifice composed of the lids and sides of kerosene tins, +roofed and finished off at the odd corners by straggling tufts of +reed, is to picture the abode of by no means the most humble settler. + +One or two are embellished, it is true, by a rough trellis work from +which the vine-leaves hang thickly, while others are decorated by +nothing beyond a variety of multi-coloured garments that hang out in +the sunshine to dry. Clustered together, the modest homesteads would +appear sordid and mean. As it is, the open solitudes of which each +stands as the human centre lend it a certain dignity that is not in +the least concerned with the pattern of the structure itself. + +The train has halted at a couple of small "Camp" stations, and has +puffed onwards again, leaving the respective brick buildings, with +their scatter of outhouses, to sink back into the lethargy that the +passenger train disturbs but for a few minutes every other day. In the +neighbourhood of Achar, the latter of these halts, the surrounding +country has broken out into an exceptional blaze of flower. The purple +of the flor morala stains hillsides entire; the scarlet verbena glows +in spreading patches that from a distance might well be mistaken for +poppy-fields, while all about are other flower carpets of yellow, +blue, and white. + +The wealth of blossom continues unbroken as far as Piedra Sola, or +Solitary Stone--a spot aptly named from a curious square block of rock +that reposes upon the top of a mound in so monumental a fashion that +it is difficult to believe that it is the work of Nature rather than +of human beings--and beyond it, adorning a country that grows ever +bolder until Tambores is reached. + +All the attributes in these primitive parts savour of Nature and of +its simplicity. The very nomenclature is affected by this influence. +Thus no historical significance is to be looked for in the name of +Tambores--drums. The origin of the word lies in the surrounding +table-lands that have grown loftier and more accentuated here than +their brethren to the south, and whose shape resembles not a little +the instruments of war. + +Tambores is a place of comparative importance. It is true that no +architectural beauties are to be looked for at the spot, since the +quaint collection of edifices that are scattered in the neighbourhood +of the station are almost without exception the tin and reed +structures common to the district. Such rare exceptions as exist, +moreover, hold out merely minor claims to aristocracy in the shape of +an entire sheet or two of corrugated iron. Yet these modest precincts +guard a really important cattle and wool centre, and even now many +hundreds of bales are lying in readiness in their wagons, while cattle +stamp impatiently in the trucks that will bear them southwards to +Montevideo. + +Passing to and fro by the honeysuckle hedge that flanks the platform +is a motley collection of folk. The majority of the men are in +sad-coloured ponchos, and in _bombachos_ that frequent staining has +imbued with an earthy hue. In addition to the railway officials, +beshawled women, children, dogs, and hens complete the gathering. A +feature that is especially noticeable here is the number of dusky +complexions that have come to assert themselves in the midst of the +fresh-coloured Uruguayan faces. Quite distinct from the swarthiness of +the Indian, the tint here savours undoubtedly of the African. It +becomes, moreover, steadily more marked as the Brazilian frontier is +approached. + +Indeed, the evidence of variety is everywhere. Even the conventional +aspect of the train itself and of its passengers has undergone no +little alteration since the start. As it pulled out from Montevideo +the train was undoubtedly a model of its kind that took no little +pride in its well-ordered level line of day coaches, and sleeping and +restaurant cars. + +Once well out into the country, however, the democratic influence of +the land has overcome its patrician make-up. A passenger coach or two +has dropped away at one station; some trucks and goods-vans have been +added at another, until its appearance has become as heterogeneous as +that of a Uruguayan volunteer soldier in a revolution. In fact, the +farther from the capital it gets and the nearer to its destination, +the more _négligé_ and doubtless practical does its appearance +become. Like to a man who starts out for a walk on a hot summer's day, +it is metaphorically trudging along bareheaded, with its coat slung +over its shoulder. + +In the case of the passengers the same may be said without the apology +of metaphor. It is in the occupants of the first-class coaches that +the transformation is most evident. Many of the men remain in at least +portions of the same clothes of metropolitan cut that served them in +Montevideo. But ponchos have now been brought out and donned to hide +what lies beneath--ponchos of fine texture, these, that stand quite +apart from the meaner drapings of the _peon_, but nevertheless +essentially national and of the land. + +As for the women, the few who have remained constant to the train +since the beginning of the journey remain in much the same trim as +when they first entered the carriage. The persistence may be due to +the vanity that is alleged by man to be inherent in woman, or merely +to the laudable desire of giving the country cousin an object-lesson +in costume. + +It must be admitted that the garments of these latter tend to comfort +somewhat at the expense of appearances. The loosest of blouses, wraps, +and skirts are wont to make up a figure in which a waist may at times +be suspected, and even occasionally hoped for, but is never seen. +Decidedly the procedure savours of rigid honesty on the part of the +country cousin. For frankly to promise nothing is surely more +admirable than the transient advertisement achieved by the manufacture +of merely temporary space in the position rightfully sought for by +superfluous material. + +Many of these country ladies with the honest and unaccentuated figures +are accompanied by their maids, these latter for the most part +negresses. The bond between mistress and maid is very close here. +Indeed, in Northern Uruguay such episodes as a "month's warning," a +demand for an extra "night out," the right to "followers," and all +other similar bones of contention that arise in more populous centres +between employer and employed are unknown. + +Here the maid, whether she be negress, mottled, or white, obtains an +assured, if minor, footing in the family circle. Not only her love +affairs but her appetite will call forth the ready sympathy of her +mistress. Seated together, their meals will be shared in common, as +indeed is occurring in the case of sandwiches and wine in the railway +carriage even now. To complete the patriarchial atmosphere, the +railway guard has joined one of the groups in question in order to +assist, purely platonically, at the impromptu meal, and his manner is +equally courteous towards señora and maid. + +It is certain that he who travels in the remoter parts must put aside +all preconceived notions of degree and appearances. Close by is seated +a group of young men who are discussing the opera in Montevideo with +critical fervour. After a while the conversation, as is inevitable, +turns upon politics, and the arguments and views are bandied to and +fro with the eloquence common to the race. + +But there is original philosophy here, whether sound or otherwise. +Schemes for alleviating the lot of the humble worker follow hard upon +the heels of topics of municipal reform, parliamentary procedure, and +the vexed and intricate question of where the Uruguayan-Argentine +frontier floats in the broad dividing river. The phrases are +wonderfully apt, the proposals astonishingly daring. During a pause in +the political discussion one of the debaters explains his own walk in +life. He is a jeweller's assistant. Another is head waiter in a +Montevidean hotel. These products of the land are undoubtedly +bewildering. Each has been talking like a prime minister. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +FROM MONTEVIDEO TO THE NORTHERN FRONTIER + +--_continued_ + + A remarkable transformation in Nature--The Valley of Eden--The + gateway of the garden--An abrupt descent--From bare plain to + sub-tropical forest--Picturesque scenery--Eden station--Some + curiosities of nomenclature--Beggary as a profession--The charity + of the Latin lands--The cliffs of the valley--Varied aspects of + the vegetation--The everlasting sweet pea--Some characteristics + of the mountains--A land of tobacco--Negro + cultivators--Appearance and dwellings of the colonial + population--Some ethics of climate and customs--Tacuarembo--A + centre of importance--A picturesque town--Scenes at the + station--Some specimens of local humanity--A dandy of the + Campo--The northern landscape--The African population--Nature and + the hut--The tunnel of Bañada de Rocha--Paso del Cerro--On the + Brazilian border--Rivera--A frontier town--Santa Ana--The + Brazilian sister township--A comparison between the two--View + from a neighbouring hill--The rival claims to beauty of the + Uruguayan and Brazilian towns. + + +Tambores has been left behind, and the train is speeding once again +through the undulations and table-lands of the pastures. Although the +new-comer is unaware of the fact, the climax of the journey is drawing +near, and one of the most remarkable transformations in Nature is +about to reveal itself with the suddenness of a pantomimic +stage-shifting. + +That the stranger to the land should remain unaware of what lies +before him is not surprising. The rolling downs have encompassed him +in unbroken sequence from the moment that the outermost suburb of +Montevideo was left behind. They are about him now, sinking and rising +until their smooth green sweeps upwards in long waves against the blue +horizon. Never was a fresher, blowier country, with its every inch +open and bare to the sunlight and breeze. It is difficult to imagine +such a land rubbing shoulders with a landscape less frank and +guileless. Its only fitting boundaries are white cliffs, and, beyond +them, the wide ocean. + +Yet if Nature aspired to human ideals of consistency the hills would +go hopping to many a queer tune. After all, it is best to leave it to +arrange its surprises in its own way. The first symptom of a coming +change is afforded by the appearance of a growth that has remained a +stranger to the landscape until now. Rock plants, with thick, heavy, +silver leaves and snowy blossoms rise up thickly of a sudden to whiten +the ground. Then without warning the train is speeding downwards +through the rock walls of a cutting that seems to have opened out from +the ground at the call of an Open Sesame steam-whistle. Two or three +hundred yards of a steep descent that makes a precipice out of the +stone side on either hand, then a rapid widening of the barrier to the +view--and the thing is done! The train has entered the Valley of Eden. + +Just as Adam in his fig-leaf gasped in dismay at his eviction from the +garden, so does the modern traveller in boots and buttons exclaim in +surprise as he passes through the stone gateway of this later Eden. +The two or three hundred yards have made an incredible memory of the +open downland. In its place are rugged cliffs to right and left, at +the base of which dense sub-tropical forest sends its waves upwards to +cling to the stone sides as far as they may. + +In the centre of the valley is a stream that goes rippling over its +rocky bed, overhung with a curtain of flowering trees that hold +strange nests within their branches, and the festoons of the lianas +that plunge thickly downwards towards the earth. The scene, in fact, +holds all the enthusiastic variety of the sub-tropics. Nothing is +wanting to the picture. The rock, leaves, flowers, palms, and the +vivid patches of smooth green by the edge of the stream have as +accessories the turkey-buzzards and black vultures carving their lazy +circles above, and the brilliant host of butterflies beneath that +float airily to and fro as though to outflash even the wonderful +feathers of the local woodpecker. + +The train, as though itself entirely taken aback by these new aspects +of Nature, has been proceeding at little beyond human walking pace. +Now it has drawn up by the side of a modest building and a few +surrounding huts that are almost smothered in the verdure. Eden +station! The sight of the place is far less incongruous than the +sound. As a matter of fact the valley itself is well named. No spot +could better endow with its glamour the simple life that endures until +the inevitable boredom leads to the death of innocence. Nevertheless, +the railway company should reserve special accommodation for the +garden. Let the traveller proceed to Margate or Southend as he likes. +But a third-class ticket to Eden! The thing is inconceivable, yet it +is done every day. + +The advent of the train, however, affords a harvest to at least one +inhabitant of this secluded and fair corner. An aged negro, who was +undoubtedly born a slave across the Brazilian frontier, is slowly +hobbling the length of the train collecting toll from the passengers +as he goes. In South America are two professions that stand apart from +all the rest. Failing the status of a millionaire, become a beggar by +all means! As regards a profitable occupation, not one of the +intermediate walks of life can equal the extremes at the social poles. +That of politician is perhaps nearest akin to both; but, +intrinsically, the phrase is transitory, since a rapid absorption at +one end or the other is practically inevitable. + +The aged negro is collecting his dues with grave complacency. A +general dealer in receipts, his profits are by no means restricted to +mere cash. Business in centavos is amazingly brisk; but so are the +transactions in cigarettes, cigars, fruit, and morsels of food. Ere +the train starts the benignity has grown deep upon the old man's face. +When the place is lonely and still once more he will totter back to +his tiny reed hut, with its insignificant patch of maize, and will +smoke, and eat, and drink, in senile enjoyment of the lengthy holiday +that separates his tri-weekly half-hours of work. He may thank the God +of beggars that he was born in a Latin land. + +The train is moving onwards once again, and the bold grey cliffs and +bluffs recede as the valley widens. Although the first full beauty of +the scene has lost by the expansion, the wealth of colour remains. The +forest trees for the most part are flecked with brilliant yellow, +while the surface of the swamps that now cover the centre of the +valley are thickly spangled with the pure white of their own broad +blossoms. + +[Illustration: OXEN DRAWING RAILWAY COACH.] + +[Illustration: BEFORE THE FAIR: TACUAREMBÓ. +To face p. 186.] + +But an attempt to describe the various growths would be the task of a +botanist. One alone must be described for its striking propensities if +for nothing beyond. In all directions are bushes of glowing mauve +flower--or, at least, so they appear at the first glimpse to the eye. +The sight is not a little amazing, since many of the shrubs, a dozen +feet in height, are covered from top to bottom with an unbroken coat +of petals. A nearer inspection solves the mystery some while after. +The flower itself is a parasite, an everlasting sweet pea, that goes +the length of concealing from sight the bush on which it depends. + +In the meanwhile the valley has widened until the well-defined cliffs +that hemmed in its beginning have disappeared altogether. But the +country remains entirely distinct from the open Campo that preceded +the gate of Eden. There is pasture here, it is true, but it is pasture +broken and intersected by woodland, river courses, ravines, and +mountains. It is curious to remark that among the latter, although +many are bold and lofty, there is not a peak to be met with. In +obedience to what appears to be a hard-and-fast law of the hills, the +top of each is shorn evenly across, leaving a flat and level summit. + +The country is one of tobacco now as well as of maize, and the aspect +of the cultivators coincides to a great extent with the popular +notions of the _mise en scène_ of the tobacco-fields. The population +of the tiny mud huts that decorate the land is almost entirely negro, +and the inevitable piccaninny is much in evidence, having apparently +escaped in shoals from the London music-hall stage. The costume of the +younger boys, however, would scarcely pass muster in a more +conventional neighbourhood. The sole garment of many of the younger +ones consists of a shirt, and a very frayed one at that--a costume +that is eminently suitable to the palm-tree, but criminal beneath the +oak. + +The next halt is at a place of importance, one of the chief features, +in fact, of the Far North. Tacuarembo numbers a population of almost +eight thousand, which, although the figure may not impress the outer +world, renders the spot something of an urban giant in the +neighbourhood. As though to compensate for its lack of imposing +buildings, Tacuarembo is exceedingly picturesque. With its avenues of +tall trees, and its houses peering everywhere from beneath the shade +of an unusual richness of vegetation, the place is sufficiently +delightful and striking in its own fashion. + +The station itself gives the keynote to the aspects of the place. +Within half a dozen yards of where the white steam goes hissing +upwards from the engine the green young peaches hang in thick clusters +from their branches. To their side is a hedge of blossoming roses that +continues until the flowery architecture changes abruptly to a wall of +golden honeysuckle. At the rear of this, surrounding the outer yard of +the place, are poplars and eucalyptus, while the heavy scent of the +purple paraiso-tree overpowers the fainter colours of the mimosa. + +A dozen or so of the local "coches" are waiting in the shade of all +these and in that of the vines that clamber upwards by their side. +They are crude affairs, whose lack of paint and polish is more than +counteracted by the dictatorial attitudes of the brigand-like drivers +who lounge at ease upon the boxes. It must be admitted that the +manners of these latter are far less formidable than their appearance. +Indeed, they smile far more graciously than the corresponding +metropolitan tyrants of South America as they drive off one by one, +bearing away their patrons beneath the shady avenues. + +The majority of folk, however, remain for some while to chat together, +since in these parts the railway station is an accepted centre of +sociability. The queer medley of the crowd possesses its own charm. A +group of officers in dark uniforms and red kepis rub shoulders with +Gauchos and peones in dark clothes and black or blue _bombachos_. +Beyond is a knot of women in the homely and loose costume of the +district, bare-headed, and with hair drawn tightly back to be wound +into a plain knot at the back of the head. An elaborate dandy, dressed +ostentatiously in the favourite black from head to foot, is extracting +a few centavos from the pockets of his shining velvet waistcoat with +which to endow a couple of dissolute-looking beggars who have drawn +near. + +Although the jet-black faces of the negroes and the browner tints of +the half-castes are much in evidence, the countenances of the true +Uruguayans remain remarkably fair and fresh. Indeed, the features of +many are unusually handsome, and curiously untouched by the stress of +heat and climate. + +Perhaps the most striking of all in the neighbourhood is the tall +figure of one who has detached himself from a group of friends, and is +walking toward where a line of tethered horses is waiting. Like the +other who has been distributing alms to the beggar, he is clad from +head to foot in black. Nevertheless, the aspects of the two are as +different as night and day. The one is a walker of the streets, this +latter a true lord of the Campo. Unmistakably a landed proprietor of +no little consideration, his costume affects the Gaucho to a marked +degree. With scarf wound negligently round his neck, loose jacket, and +broad bombachos, the spotless black of the finest material is finished +off by the light boots of the man whose life is spent in the saddle. +In his hand the _rebenque_--the inevitable riding-whip--glistens with +its silver carving, a work of art. + +None could deny the coquetry of his appearance; but this is the stern +coquetry of the warrior and hunter, as a glance at his grave, rather +hawklike features will confirm. A strikingly handsome figure of a +man, he stalks with assured tread, raising his sombrero with a simple +gesture to acquaintances, until he reaches the spot where the line of +horses are tethered. His mount is a magnificent bay, whose leathers +and bridle are silvered as thickly as they may be and yet remain +flexible, while the saddle and stirrups are heavily coated with the +same material. He has swung himself into the saddle now, and is riding +away, forcing his horse with consummate ease into a series of curvets +and caracoles that evoke admiration even from the numerous +professional centaurs in the crowd. But the rider never once looks +back as he swings away in the shade of the trees. The romantic figure +is either unconscious of admiration or too accustomed to the tribute +to be concerned. In any case, he is a product of the land, a veritable +paladin. + +To the north of Tacuarembo are grass hills overshadowed by the +inevitable tall table-lands. Where the rock juts out from the side of +these the fronds of many varieties of fern sprout thickly, and by +their sides are clumps of evening primrose, everlasting pea, and a +wealth of far more brilliant blossoms of the tropical order. In the +hollows the vegetation of the wooded streams grows ever more +luxurious, and here the flowers star the banks in the wildest riot of +profusion. + +Seeing that it is springtime, all this is as it should be. But there +cannot be many parts of the world whose inhabitants are permitted such +a striking reminder of the season as is the case just here. In the +neighbourhood of one of these enchanting streams is a very humble mud +hut. Its dwellers are pure Africans, and they are just without, +enjoying a sun-bath with all the zest of the race. + +But the interest of this particular spot is not concerned with them at +all; it is centred upon the modest homestead itself. The mud walls +have responded in an amazing fashion to the call of the year. Not +content with a background of lichen and moss, they have flung out +lengthy streamers of fern, from amidst which peer shyly the blossoms +of various plants. Obedient to the impulse of spring, each of the four +sides has garbed itself thus. In less exuberant parts the effect would +be strained for with toil and achieved with triumph. But here the +black inhabitants regard their eloquent house as a matter of course. + +Just after leaving the small station of Bañada de Rocha is a tunnel. +This fact may appear totally unworthy of mention--anywhere else but +within the countries bordering on the River Plate. Here a tunnel is an +object to be paused at, and to be inspected with not a little +curiosity. Although it is possible that some minor burrowings may +exist, to the best of my belief the three republics of Argentina, +Uruguay, and Paraguay can count no more than two regular tunnels +between them. The wonderful shaft bored through the heart of the Andes +is one--the other is before us here at Bañada de Rocha. As the only +specimen of its kind in Uruguay, therefore, it is not without +distinction, and is worthy of at least a passing remark. + +After passing through the tunnel the line drops down into a fairly +wide plain, hemmed in by numerous low ranges of the inevitable +flat-topped hills, while a few elevations of the same curious nature +dot the country in the nearer neighbourhood of the track. In a short +while, however, the more broken country has surged up all about once +again, bearing upon its surface quaint rocky projections, some shaped +exactly as tables, others in the form of sugar-loaves, while yet +others resemble giant mushrooms sprouting cumbrously from the soil. + +Ere reaching the station of Paso del Cerro a great grove of +carolina-trees rises majestically, and in the grateful shadow of the +branches a long line of bullock-wagons, each vehicle loaded with the +wool for which the region is noted, goes winding its way towards the +station in the stolid fashion of such processions. Paso del Cerro is +delightfully situated, facing as it does a range of hills whose +surface is dotted with ranches that appear picturesque enough in the +distance. Beyond this point lofty cliffs of rock soar aloft, pressing +near to the line. In the nooks and crannies of the great walls are +dwarf trees of fantastic shapes that make pleasant breaks here and +there in the bare rock of the surface. + +A little farther on the colour of the soil begins to undergo a +transformation, and soon the red sandstone--the colour that is typical +of the same, as well as the more northern, latitudes in the +surrounding republics--is stretching everywhere to join with the green +in dominating the landscape. A few more wayside stations, and then +Rivera and the Brazilian frontier are drawing near, while the mountain +ranges that mark the Brazilian territory are already in sight. + +Rivera is a town of no little local importance, small though its +extent may be as it nestles in a hollow in the midst of the hills. The +soft pink of its buildings and the red of its roads and hillsides +contrast delightfully with the green foliage and brilliant flowers +with which the spot is so liberally endowed. Rivera, moreover, is a +place that can lay claim to some quite notable characteristics of its +own. It possesses, for instance, a magnificent avenue, the Sarandi, +that stretches for over a mile, shaded by trees for all its length, +from off the central portion of which lies the pretty little plaza. + +[Illustration: FRONTIER STONE AT RIVERA.] + +[Illustration: TUNNEL AT BAÑADA DE ROCHA. +To face p. 192.] + +The best view of both the town and of the surrounding country is to +be obtained from the solitary hill near by that marks the boundary +between the two republics, and that bears upon its summit an old and +battered boundary-stone. Viewed from here the panorama is fascinating. +To the north, and immediately below, lies Santa Ana, the Brazilian +sister-township of Rivera, that sends out its buildings almost to join +walls with those of the Uruguayan. Santa Ana itself presents a +picturesque enough prospect with its white houses and luxuriant +gardens, its wide, unpaved, shadeless streets, its rambling barracks, +and its red-bricked bullring. As a background to this bright, sunlit +picture, and one that throws it into strong relief, rise range upon +range of the dark hills with their shaven summits, starting up +abruptly in the first instance from the confines of the town itself, +and fading away gradually into the misty distance of the province of +Rio Grande. Skirting the base of the hill to the east is a short +avenue devoid of buildings that serves as the frontier line, and marks +with no little emphasis where one town ends and the other begins. The +significance of the spot is accentuated by the sight of the +sentry-boxes of the frontier guards and custom officials. To the +south, reclining in its own hollow, lies Rivera, with its shady +avenues and its conspicuous round-towered church. + +The aspects of the two towns are curiously different, considering the +fact that from their absolute propinquity they form to all intents and +purposes a single city. In the first place the difference in the tint +of each is marked. The general colour of the Rivera houses is red, +while that of Santa Ana is pure white. The distinction is merely the +result of differing national customs. The houses of both places are +constructed of precisely similar stone, but the Brazilian prefers to +face his walls with plaster. _Autres pays, autres moeurs_; but it is +seldom that the contrast may be viewed from so near at hand. The +architecture, moreover, of the Santa Ana buildings is of a much +squarer and older design than that of those in the Uruguayan town. The +former city, as a matter of fact, is considerably more ancient than +the latter, to which not only the growing timber but the buildings as +well bear witness. In Santa Ana the trees, although not nearly so +numerous, have attained to far grander proportions than has been the +case with those across the border. + +If one should not judge humanity from outward appearance, the +procedure is even less wise in dealing with a collection of human +habitations. Feminine powder and rouge are as mere toys in the matter +of guile compared with the alluring scenic effect that a city is +capable of producing by means of bricks and mortar. Judged from the +summit of the hill without, Santa Ana presents an even more inviting +appearance than that of Rivera. Once within the walls the aspects of +the situation alter abruptly. Santa Ana possesses one spot of beauty, +it is true. Its luxuriant and shady plaza where the date-palms +flourish is an oasis of delight set in the midst of sordid +surroundings and dusty heat. With this exception, it must be admitted +that the place is shadeless, dirty, and evil-smelling. + +The streets of Rivera, on the contrary, are clean, well paved, and +sheltered from the rays of the sun by the innumerable green branches +that stretch so pleasantly above. The townsfolk, moreover, differ less +from those of Montevideo than might be imagined, although the heat of +the climate has been responsible for a rather sallower and swarthier +type. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +HERE AND THERE IN URUGUAY + + Uruguayan roads--A comparison with those of Argentina--The + benefits of stone--Some fine metalled highways--The road to San + José--On the way to Pando--The journey as effected by + motor-car--A smiling landscape--Distant sand-dunes--A spotless + range--The mountains of Minas--The town of Pando--A typical minor + urban centre--The ending of the macadamised road--The track + beyond--An abrupt change in the order of going--The bumps of the + Campo--Piriapolis--A budding pleasure resort--Completeness of the + enterprise--Eucalyptus forests--A vehicular wreck by the + way--Unsuccessful Samaritans--The work of Señor Piria--The + Castillo--An imposing home--View from the spot--The Pan de + Azucar--A landscape of mountain, valley, forest, and + sea--Architecture of the Castillo--Piriapolis Bay--A centre of + future bathing--Preparations already effected--The hotel and + casino--A wonderful feat of private + enterprise--Afforestation--Encouragement of the industry by the + Uruguayan Government--The work of Mr. Henry Burnett--The + transformation of arid soil into fertile land--Commercial success + of the venture--The Maldonado sand-dunes--Fulgurites--A curiosity + of the sands--Discoveries by Mr. C. E. R. Rowland. + + +A feature that is not a little remarked upon by those who have entered +Uruguay from the stoneless Pampa of Argentina is the excellence of the +roads that surround Montevideo, and of several, indeed, that penetrate +for a considerable distance inland. The highway to the town of San +José, for instance, that extends for ninety-six kilometres is +macadamised throughout its length, and is, moreover, excellently +constructed and sustained. + +The benefits of convenient deposits of stone are strikingly emphasised +here. Now that a start has been made, there is no reason why +efficient roads of the kind should not pierce the countryside in all +directions. For, notwithstanding the natural fertility of its soil, +there is scarcely a corner throughout the whole length and breadth of +the Republic that is not seamed to a smaller or larger extent with +these layers of useful stone, the eruption of which frequently marks +the surface itself of the land. + +The road to San José, as a matter of fact, is by no means the only +important one of its kind. There are various similar specimens, +equally well constructed if of less imposing length. A very admirable +road leads from the capital to the small town of Pando in the +neighbouring province of Canelones. The journey by motor-car is an +easy one, and renders an admirable insight into the nature of the +country in this particular district. + +Curiously enough, the least smooth portion of this highway is +represented by a mile or so of its length on the outskirts of +Montevideo itself. This point once passed, however, the undulations in +the surface of the road die away, and the broad grey thoroughfare +stretches with remarkable smoothness over hill and dale. The car can +snort along at the utmost speed its power will permit, since the grey +band opens out ahead with a refreshing openness that is totally devoid +of secrecy, and only at the lengthiest intervals is its surface +darkened by the form of a rider or of a lumbering country cart. + +The progress is of the switchback order, with long-drawn-out rises and +falls that are effected with alternate exuberance and strainings, +while on either hand the fields, verdure, and masses of fruit blossom +speed by in very pleasant sequence. For a spring shower has laid the +dust, and when the Oriental landscape smiles, its countenance is +supremely fascinating. As though to add just the tinge of sombreness +that is requisite for the accentuation of the delightful scene, a +dark forest of eucalyptus stands out here and there by the way, the +massive serried trunks and branches painting the landscape with a +heavy splash of gloom. + +For the first few leagues the aspect of the country--although the +great variety of its attributes preserves it entirely from the taint +of mere monotony--remains much the same. After a while, however, the +skyline to the right becomes lightened in a rather remarkable fashion. +The foreground is a medley of green, brown, and purple--rendered +respectively by the hills, trees, orchards, and a patch or two of +ploughed soil. At the back of these rich colours a range of very lofty +snow-white sand-dunes has risen up. The gleaming barrier marks the +frontier-line of the land; upon its farther side, invisible, of +course, from inland, are the breakers of the South Atlantic Ocean. +Indeed, the effect of this spotless range, when viewed from the +shoreward side, is doubly curious, since the verdant landscape that +leads right up to them gives no other indication of the propinquity of +the sea. + +To the north-east elevations of quite another kind have been slowly +rising upwards from the horizon as the car speeds along. As the town +of Pando itself is more nearly approached, the distant mountains of +Minas have swollen into view to assert themselves in a fashion that is +not to be overlooked. Great rounded masses piled in dim purple against +the horizon, their aspect presents a sharp contrast to that of the +dunes close by. The latter are shadowless things, clear-cut and +wanting in depth for all their purity; the inland mountains are deep +and secretive, with an outline that confounds itself mysteriously with +the sky. + +The town of Pando itself is remarkable for little in the way of +commercial or industrial development beyond forming the centre of a +very flourishing agricultural district. The place possesses a quaint +red-brick church, the walls of which are adorned with a curious number +of balconies. With this exception the buildings are unpretentious; but +almost every one is lent its own particular charm by the wealth of +gardens and shade-trees with which the spot is endowed. Pando, indeed, +is one of those very pleasant minor urban centres with which Uruguay +is so plentifully besprinkled, with its delightful surroundings of +orchards, vineyards, and cultivated land planted here and there with +eucalyptus forests and with groves of other trees. In the near +neighbourhood of the town runs a typical Uruguayan stream, its banks +thickly lined with verdure, more especially with the weeping willows +whose branches droop downwards in a thick green curtain over the +water's edge. + +[Illustration: EUCALYPTUS FOREST: PIRIAPOLIS.] + +[Illustration: THE CASTILLO: PIRIAPOLIS. +To face p. 198] + +It is at this placid rural centre that the macadamised road ends. +There is no mistaking the terminus of the metalled highway. One turn +of the wheels of the car has left the smooth, hard surface behind--and +then begins quite another order of going. The progress of an +automobile over a representative local road of the country partakes of +many elements, amongst others of those of steeplechasing, toboganning, +and of the switchback railways common to those centres less well +provided with natural forms of excitement. The mounds and valleys of +the way provide an unbroken succession of surprises to which the car +responds by lurching and dipping wildly, although the dexterity of the +driver keeps it staggering upon its four wheels. Nevertheless, a very +little of this goes a long--or an incredibly short--way. So after a +while the nose of the car is turned--a manoeuvre that demands as much +caution as putting a small boat about in a gale--and the vehicle +bumps its way back again through the smiling outskirts of Pando to +come to rest, as it were, upon the hard, grey road again. + +The sand-dunes of which a glimpse has been obtained at Piriapolis are +characteristic of almost the entire length of the Uruguayan coast that +gives upon the Atlantic Ocean. There are many spots along this open +shore that are well worthy of a visit. Not the least of these is +Piriapolis--a place that is in the act of making a very bold bid for +popularity as a pleasure resort. Piriapolis is a spot of no little +interest. Situated a little to the west of Maldonado on the southern +coast that faces the open Atlantic, the place is a budding town, and +is noteworthy as much for what it promises in the future as for its +present aspects, interesting enough though they are. Piriapolis is +remarkable in being a one-man place--by which no connection is implied +with the one-horse epithet of tradition--in that it has emanated from +the mind and pocket of a prominent Uruguayan, Señor Francisco Piria. + +Piriapolis lies to the coastward side of the railway line that is +being prolonged in the direction of Maldonado, and, as matters at +present stand, it is necessary to board a construction train, and to +proceed soberly along the unballasted track to the point where the +coach, with its four horses abreast, waits in readiness to complete +the journey. It must be admitted that the road that goes rising and +falling over the hilly country is not good. The future will doubtless +endow the district with a network of highways of quite another kind. + +But Piriapolis is young. Hence the unfortunate wagon that is lit upon, +shortly after the start, stuck hard and fast in the deep mud of a +hollow. In the way of good Samaritans, horses are detached from the +coach to assist in the struggle; but the tenacious mud clings in +unyielding obstinacy to its wheeled prey. In the end the contest is +abandoned for the time being; the lent horses return to their place in +front of the coach, and the driver of the wagon departs gloomily to +scour the neighbouring country in search of oxen. + +As the coach proceeds, the way lies through a wild and mountainous +country that bears not a little resemblance to portions of the South +West of Ireland. But here in the place of the whitewashed Irish cabins +are mud ranchos, almost every one of which reposes beneath the +sheltering branches of its own particular unit or group of ombú-trees. + +After a little more than an hour's drive the aspect of the country to +the front changes abruptly, and presently the coach enters the cool +shade of a great forest of eucalyptus and pine. It is difficult to +conceive these stretches of giant trees as not having covered the soil +for generations. Yet less than twenty years ago the face of this +particular district was as bare as any of that of the surrounding +country, since it is only eighteen years ago that Señor Piria planted +the first sapling that went to form this present forest land. + +Roads of a better order now prick their way the length of the woodland +aisles, and after a while a lonely little store and post-office stand +out from amidst the trees. A little beyond evidences of civilisation +appear quite unexpectedly. A pair of fine wrought-iron gates are to +the front. Once through these an avenue, adorned by statues at +intervals of a few yards, leads to a square turreted building that is +known as the _castillo_, or castle, of Señor Piria himself. The +dwelling is a pleasant one, with its broad stone terraces that +overlook pretty grounds, covered with semi-tropical trees, shrubs, and +flowers, laid out after the Italian style. + +The view obtained from the upper terrace here is decidedly beautiful. +Beyond the gardens spread broad orchards and vineyards, and at the +back of these again on one side is a belt of forest that covers the +ground for seven miles and more until the edge of the sea itself is +reached--a sparkling line of blue that is visible in the distance from +here. On the opposite side rises a rugged hill of immense queer-shaped +boulders, from the interstices of which grows a dense tangle of scrub. + +By far the most conspicuous object, however, in the whole panorama is +the aptly named Pan de Azucar, or Sugar Loaf Mountain, that rises to a +height of some two thousand feet on the west of the castle. The hill +is a bare mass of serrated rock, and represents one of the highest +points in the Republic. It is the dominating feature in a landscape +that affords a wonderful combination of mountain, valley, forest, and +sea. + +The architecture of the castillo itself is somewhat original. The +ground floor is almost entirely occupied by the guests' bedrooms, +apartments with great vaulted ceilings that open promiscuously the one +into the other. The living apartments are on the first floor, and the +walls of the central hall are hung with many old Italian paintings. +Above this again is the square tower that stands as the summit of the +house. I mention the architecture more particularly, since it is +entirely unusual, the ordinary country houses of Uruguay being almost +without exception constructed on a single floor. + +The seven miles of eucalyptus forest that intervene between the +castillo and the sea afford a delightful drive to the shore of +Piriapolis Bay. This portion of the coast consists of a shelving sandy +shore eminently suited for the purposes of bathing, and is backed by +an imposing vista of forest and mountain. The hill immediately behind +the bay, by the way, is locally known as the Sierra de los Ingleses, +having been employed, it is said, for the purposes of smuggling in the +old days by English sailors. + +It is at this point that the future town and pleasure resort of +Piriapolis is to be situated. Some considerable start in this +direction has already been made, as will be evident when it is +explained that a great hotel has already been constructed, and is now +complete, and ready for the day when it shall be officially opened. +The place is of quite a palatial order, and is provided with no less +than 120 bedrooms, as well as with a magnificent dining-room and very +spacious apartments and lounges. A broad terrace runs the entire +length of the building on the seaward side, and the tide, when at its +highest, reaches to within twenty yards of the hotel itself. A very +useful addition to the place is a large vegetable and fruit garden +that holds everything of the kind that is needed. The plants and trees +flourish amazingly well here, although, curiously enough, their roots +are planted in no more satisfying a soil than sand. + +The enterprise, however, has not contented itself with the erection of +the hotel. In the neighbourhood of this building is a small casino, +destined to be employed for the purpose of games of chance, and almost +the entire margin of the bay is dotted by little, square, four-roomed +châlets. At some distance from the hotel a stone mole is in the course +of construction, and it is here, of course, that the pleasure steamers +will land their passengers when the place is once in the full swing of +its active life. + +[Illustration: THE PAN DE AZUCAR MOUNTAIN.] + +[Illustration: THE NEW HOTEL: PIRIAPOLIS. +To face p. 202.] + +At present the place stands empty--a prepared shell awaiting this +influx. As a feat of private enterprise Piriapolis must take a high +rank; for the difficulties of transport have added vastly to the +labour of the undertaking. It is a beautiful spot, in any case, and +the pleasure resort should meet with all the success it deserves. + +The topic of Piriapolis brings us to the question of afforestation. On +this portion of the coast the science is undoubtedly one of supreme +importance, and one to which of late years a fitting amount of +attention has been paid. The Government of Uruguay has very wisely +done much towards the encouragement of tree-planting and the +transformation of apparently arid areas to regions of genuine +fertility. + +As an instance of this liberal and progressive policy it may be +mentioned that in 1909 Mr. Henry Burnett, the British Vice-Consul at +Maldonado, was awarded a gold medal and a bonus of three thousand +dollars for having been the first to plant a collection of over ten +thousand maritime pines. The labour in the first instance of inducing +these young trees to grow was arduous, and time after time the budding +plantation was buried beneath the masses of driven sand. With the +eventual survival, however, of the first screen the remainder of the +task proved easy, and Mr. Burnett has now in his possession over one +hundred thousand maritime pines. + +Encouraged by this example, numerous other landholders of the district +have succeeded in cultivating similar plantations, and the result has +proved highly beneficial, not only in the transformation of the +country but from the commercial point of view as well. For districts +that until recently were absolutely worthless are now valued at +anything from ten dollars to forty dollars the hectare. + +A peculiar characteristic of these Maldonado sand-dunes is to be met +with in the fulgurites that are found there--the vitrified sand-tubes +caused by the action of lightning that are referred to by Darwin on +the occasion of his visit to the spot. Similar phenomena obtain in a +few other corners of the world, but those found here are by far the +largest in size, some extending to no less than five feet in length. +Owing, however, to their extremely fragile nature, it is impossible to +extract these larger specimens in any fashion but in comparatively +small fragments. + +Mr. C. E. R. Rowland, the British Vice-Consul at Montevideo, has taken +especial interest in these fulgurites of the Maldonado Sands. The +British Museum contains some very fine specimens sent by him, and he +has supplied the national museum at Montevideo with its first +specimens of these curiosities. This same gentleman, by the way, quite +recently discovered two distinct species of Uruguayan lizards that, +sent for classification to the South Kensington Natural History +Museum, were discovered to be of kinds that until then had been +perfectly unknown. They remain in the museum to which they were sent, +dignified by the name of their discoverer. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +MERCEDES AND THE SWISS COLONY + + The journey to Mercedes--The outskirts of Montevideo--Santa + Lucia--A pleasant town--Native quince and gorse--San José--The + terminus of a great highway--Some feats of engineering--The urban + importance of San José--A modern flour mill--Mal + Abrigo--Character of the soil--A country of boulders--Some + animals of the Sierra de Mal Abrigo--The surroundings of + Mercedes--A charmingly situated town--The terminus of the + line--Some characteristics of Mercedes--Urban dwellings--The + delights of the patio--The disadvantages of economy in + space--Streets and plazas--The hospital--A well-equipped + institution--View from the building--An island in Rio Negro--The + Port of Mercedes--River craft--Some local scenes--An equine + passenger--Formidable gutters--The industries of the town--The + Hôtel Comercio--Colonia Suiza--Situation of the Swiss + Colony--Uruguayan Campo dwellings--Method of + construction--Simplicity of household removals--Aspect of + deserted huts--The houses of the Swiss Colony--Habits in general + of South American colonists--The range of nationalities--Liberty + accorded--Population of the Colonia Suiza--Its industries--A + dairy-farming community--An important butter factory--An instance + of a rapid rise from poverty to riches. + + +The railway journey from Montevideo to the town of Mercedes, on the +Rio Negro, is of ten hours' duration. The first portion of the run is, +of course, through the pleasant suburbs of the capital that have +already been sufficiently described. At Juanico, some forty kilometres +distant from the starting-point, the denser plantations and orchards +have already fallen away, and the country has definitely assumed its +natural grazing character, broken into here and there by large areas +of alfalfa. The place, as a matter of fact, is an important dairy +centre, from which Montevideo obtains a considerable proportion of its +butter, milk, and cheese. + +Santa Lucia, the next halt, is another of those smiling Oriental towns +embowered in gardens and orchards, and surrounded by tree-dotted +pastures. Close to the confines of the town runs the Santa Lucia +River, with its banks thickly bordered by willows and poplars that at +one point give way to a wide avenue of the popular and gigantic +eucalyptus. The spot is much patronised in the summer for the purpose +of picnics; for--to his credit be it said--the Uruguayan is a great +connoisseur of the _al fresco_ and its charms. + +On leaving Santa Lucia the railway line makes a sweeping bend, and +then crosses the river by an iron bridge that proudly claims the +distinction of being the longest on the system. Upon the farther side +of the stream the country is brightened by the innumerable blossom +sprays of the many wild quince-trees, and by the broad clumps of +glowing gorse. Soon, however, the aspect of the landscape alters +again, and the train is speeding once more through the open Campo of +pasture-land and of wheat and barley fields. + +San José, the next town of importance to be reached, is remarkable as +being the terminus of a splendid macadamised road that runs a distance +of ninety-six kilometres from Montevideo to this point. This excellent +highway is constructed in a really imposing fashion, and is engineered +with a lordly disregard of all obstacles. Just before reaching San +José, for instance, it crosses the river in the neighbourhood of the +town by a magnificent bridge no less than 360 metres in length. This +work was commenced by an Uruguayan engineer in 1906, and was completed +in 1909, at a cost of nearly two hundred thousand gold dollars. The +Uruguayans take a vast amount of very just pride in this structure, +which is probably one of the finest road bridges in existence. It +forms a fitting conclusion, moreover, to the best road in lower South +America. + +The town of San José itself is fairly important from the point of view +of population, since it numbers thirteen thousand inhabitants--a fact +that places it in the first rank of the country towns of the Republic. +Its chief church dominates all the remaining buildings, and affords a +notable landmark for many miles around. With the exception of this, +San José contains little of interest. It is, in fact, merely a typical +"camp" town that serves the surrounding agricultural area. A most +up-to-date mill that turns out daily twenty-one tons of flour is, +however, worthy of remark, since from the moment that the wheat is +dumped into the granary to that when it emerges as fine flour and is +mechanically poured into sacks, the whole process is effected by +machinery. + +Beyond San José the line climbs gradually to the summit of a small +sierra, whence a spreading panorama of the surrounding country is +obtained. On leaving Mal Abrigo, the next station, the character of +the landscape alters. The rich, black, vegetable soil has given way to +a rocky surface. Huge boulders of all shapes are strewn everywhere as +though flung by some giant upheaval into their tremendous confusion. +In the intervals of these great rocks grow thorny trees and shrubs. +Indeed, this Sierra de Mal Abrigo differs from anything that has gone +before. Hares abound in the neighbourhood, and at the approach of the +train great numbers of the animals speed away behind the sheltering +boulders. The armadillo, too, is especially plentiful in this region, +which seems to favour the partridge and martineta almost equally +well. + +Bizcocho is the last point of call before reaching Mercedes, from +which it is distant some twenty kilometres. From here the ground--once +again an open, treeless plain--slopes continuously as it descends +towards the valley at the Rio Negro. At the near approach to Mercedes +itself the country assumes the smiling aspect that seems the +inevitable attribute of the environs of the Uruguayan towns. Gardens, +orchards, streams, plantations, vineyards--all these flit past in +rapid sequence, until the train pulls up at Mercedes station, the +terminus of the line. + +This terminus of the line is well defined in more senses than one. The +station is situated on a bluff that hangs immediately over the Rio +Negro. It is merely necessary to proceed to the end of the rails, just +beyond the platform, in order to look sheer down upon the water of the +river some hundred feet below. A thoughtful act on the part of the +railway company to halt on the very brink, and thus to supply a +panorama in the place where the rails can no longer travel! + +[Illustration: MERCEDES: FROM ACROSS THE RIO NEGRO. +To face p. 208.] + +As a town Mercedes is attractive to a degree. The place can boast of +no great size, it is true, since its population does not exceed ten +thousand. Yet it is exceptionally fortunate both in its situation and +in the style of its buildings. The main portion of the city consists +of some half-dozen streets running parallel to the river, crossed by a +rather greater number of thoroughfares that lead directly from the +water's edge. The houses are almost without exception of the older +style of architecture--rather low, spreading buildings, each of which +encloses one of those charming patios that, alas! are now growing +steadily fewer with each year. Surely nothing is more delightful than +this verdure-filled courtyard set in the midst of the house--the small +stone-bound garden with its flowers, shrubs, and palms, on to which +give all the lower rooms of the establishment! They would doubtless +continue to exist for centuries were it not for the growing power and +insistence of their chief enemy, economy of space! + +The streets and plazas of Mercedes are fairly animated, for the town +is the centre of considerable social life. The majority of folk here +are of rather darker complexion than those of the capital, but the +women are almost equally good-looking. _Coches_ are plentiful in the +town; each of the two-horsed buggies will seat six people with ease, +and even then will speed along at an exhilarating pace, for the steeds +of these public conveyances are both willing and well cared for. + +The highest point of the town is occupied by the hospital. This, like +so many other Uruguayan institutions of the kind, is a very fine +establishment, well appointed, and provided with large, airy rooms and +corridors. From the roof of this hospital is revealed a magnificent +view of the town and its surroundings. The entire panorama is one not +easily to be forgotten. So far as the river itself is concerned, it is +possible from this point of vantage to follow its windings for miles +in both directions. The river here, by the way, attains to very nearly +a quarter of a mile in width--no despicable stretch of water even for +a tributary of the mighty Uruguay. + +In mid-stream just opposite Mercedes is an island--a gem of an island +embowered in luxurious vegetation, and completely fringed by large +weeping willows, whose drooping festoons of green all but touch the +waters. In conformity with the utilitarian spirit of the age, a scheme +is on foot for the construction of an hotel in this place, and surely +no more alluring spot could be lit upon for the purpose--although the +danger to the landscape from the erection of an unsuitable building +would be very real. + +Between this island and the buildings of the town is the port. Here +the topsail schooners and the various river craft of all descriptions +lie at anchor, including the small stern-wheel steamers that serve for +the passenger traffic into the far interior of the land, and a few +large barges piled high with the bones of cattle. Jutting out into the +stream near here is a small mole, from which point a small motor-ferry +is wont to ply to and fro, and thus give connection with the Fray +Bentos road upon the opposite shore. Just to the left of this, +anchored in mid-river, lies a large houseboat, which serves as the +headquarters of the local rowing and swimming clubs. + +It is, of course, in this neighbourhood that the river life is at its +busiest. Upon the rocky shore are groups of women in bright-coloured +dresses busily employed in washing household linen and various +garments--a sight, as a matter of fact, that may be anticipated with +certainty upon any populous Oriental river bank. The motor-ferry, too, +has by no means the monopoly of transit, and numerous smaller craft +are continually passing from one shore to the other. Their occupants +are not necessarily limited to the human species. Here, for instance, +is a horse being brought across in a small rowing boat. The animal +appears quite unconcerned; he is doubtless accustomed to the aquatic +excursions in so tiny a skiff. + +Returning from the riverside, a peculiar characteristic of the +Mercedes streets should attract the eye, or, failing this, stumblings +will ensue of a certainty. On either side of the roadway is an immense +gutter of over a yard in depth and width. These portentous channels +serve to carry off the rainfall of the heavy storms that occur from +time to time, and on a dark night constitute formidable obstacles in +the path of an unwary foot-passenger. + +Mercedes possesses a fairly important _saladero_, and, in addition, +constitutes a centre of the charcoal-burning industry. A couple of +hundred tons of this commodity is frequently shipped from the place in +the course of a month. So far as hotels are concerned, the Comercio is +distinctly to be recommended. The establishment is well above the +average of those that the ordinary provincial town can boast, being +clean, airy, and comfortable, and provided, moreover, with a very +genial host. + +Colonia Suiza is situated, some twenty miles inland from the coast, +midway between Mercedes and Montevideo. In order to reach this very +picturesque spot from the former town by rail it is necessary to hark +back to Mal Abrigo, from which junction the run to the Swiss Colony is +a short one. The country through which the journey is made is of the +usual grazing order, sparsely populated, the ground being marked only +here and there by a typical Uruguayan rancho. + +The modest establishments of this particular district are worthy of +special mention. Each is contrived from square blocks of turf, +carefully cut, and placed one on top of the other with the grass edge +downwards. The exterior of the walls is left without any attempt at +facing or adornment, and thus presents a distinctly crude and peculiar +appearance. The dwelling, however, is rendered snug and waterproof by +being plastered from within. These walls are extremely well made, +considering the fact that their composition is not assisted by any +additional material. The roof is made of wood, cut in lengths, and +thatched over with wood or straw. + +Household removals on the Uruguayan campo are not necessarily matters +of weighty thought, whose occurrence is to be anticipated with dread +for many months beforehand. When the family who owns one of these mud +ranches decides to move, the procedure is very simple. The roof, +doors, and windows of the home are taken down and collected. After +which it is merely necessary for the party to pack these along with +them on horseback, until a suitable site is lit upon for a new +erection of turf into which the portable finishing touches may be +inserted. That effected, the owners are once more at home. As for the +discarded dwelling, it remains much as before, save that it is minus +roof, door, and windows. + +Many of these skeleton huts are to be met with on the rolling face of +the country. They possess this in common with birds' nests, that from +a distance it is difficult to ascertain whether they are occupied or +to let. If deserted, there is no reason why any chance family on the +move should not take possession by no more formal means than that of +affixing roof, door, and windows in the gaps that await them. Many of +these ranchos, by the way, are surrounded by very pretty gardens, and +hedged in by tall hedges of geranium and rose. + +Once arrived at the Swiss Colony, however, the aspect of the dwellings +becomes altogether changed. The houses here resemble strongly the +châlets of the Swiss mountains, for, like the remaining colonies of +the kind throughout the River Plate republics, the immigrants have +introduced their own ways and fashions of living. Indeed, the +existence of such bodies provides an ample testimonial of the +conditions of freedom under which life is conducted in these +countries. + +[Illustration: RIO NEGRO BRIDGE.] + +[Illustration: ON THE RIO NEGRO. +To face p. 212.] + +The number and strange variety of these self-contained colonies in +this part of the world is scarcely realised. They are, of course, +totally distinct from the ordinary, scattered immigrant dwellers. +When surveyed _en masse_ the result is not a little extraordinary. In +the three Spanish-speaking republics of Argentina, Uruguay, and +Paraguay that, together with Southern Bolivia, formed the old River +Plate provinces, exist distinct and important settlements of Swiss, +Austrians, Poles, Australians, Welsh, Boers, and Jews, besides +numerous lesser groups of many nationalities beyond. + +Within the frontiers of each perfect liberty obtains to continue +existence as it is led in the country from which the immigrants came, +and thus each is provided with its own churches and institutions. In +the case of the more recently founded it is almost as though a portion +of the foreign land had been translated bodily to South American soil, +while those of older standing have invariably yielded more or less to +the influence of their surroundings. But the choice of remaining +entirely aloof, or of assimilating the customs that prevail outside +their own frontiers lies entirely in the hands of the immigrant +communities. It is, of course, only natural that each section should +carry on that particular branch of industry to which it has been +accustomed in its country of origin. + +The Colonia Suiza constitutes an important body, containing, as it +does, no less than four thousand inhabitants. Here it is not +surprising that the staple industry should be that of cheese +manufacture and dairy produce. In addition to this a fair amount of +agriculture is carried on. The soil of the district is well adapted to +linseed, and numerous vineyards are responsible for the production of +a local wine of very fair quality. + +Consisting for the most part of small dairy farms, no regular township +exists in the colony, although a small village has sprung into being +in the neighbourhood of the railway station, and three hotels are +distributed at wide intervals across the area occupied. The community, +first established in 1862 by the arrival of seven Swiss families, is +flourishing, and its members have clung to their national habits with +more tenacity than is usual. + +The largest and most important butter factory in the place produces in +the springtime a daily quantity of no less than a ton of butter. Its +proprietor, ere he emigrated, played the rôle of a small shopkeeper in +his own country. His house was burned to the ground, but, fortunately +for himself, the property was insured. He employed the money derived +from this source for the purpose of the voyage to South America, and, +arrived at the Colonia Suiza, he found employment in the carrying +round of the milk. In a very short while he was employing others to +perform this service for himself, and is now a wealthy man, thus +affording one more example of those rapid rises from poverty to riches +that are so characteristic of South America. + +The general aspects of this colony are peculiarly agreeable. Situated +in one of the most pleasant districts of a smiling land, it is well +watered and timbered. The verdure of the place, moreover, is enhanced +by the numerous green lanes that intersect it. Indeed, no more +delightful situation could be imagined than that occupied by many of +the châlets of Swiss design. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +COLONIA + + An historical town--Rarity of ruins in the River Plate + countries--Specimens at Colonia--Situation of the town--Past + antagonism between the capitals of Argentina and Uruguay--Present + aspect of Colonia compared with the former--A sleepy + hollow--Periodical awakenings of the place--Impressions of the + old town--Its colouring and compactness--Fortifications of the + city of discord--A warlike history--Nations that have warred + together at this spot--The reddest corner in a bloodstained + land--Surroundings of the town--Crumbling masonry--A medley of + old and new--A Colonia street--Old-time scenes of peace and + war--Some pictures of the past--Cannon as road posts--The + Plaza--An episode in the wars with Portugal--The eternity of + romance--Real de San Carlo--A modern watering-place--Its + buildings--The bullring--A gigantic pelota-court--Popularity of + the spot--A miniature tramway--Attractions of Real de San + Carlo--Vegetation on the sands--A curious colour scheme--Pleasant + lanes--Buenos Aires as a supplier of tourists. + + +The small town of Colonia stands quite alone in many respects. Not as +regards situation, climate, and a reputation as a pleasure resort. In +all these three the spot is especially favoured; yet in each of these +it possesses a number of formidable rivals along the Uruguayan coast. +Excursionists flock to Colonia, it is true, but such flighty nomads +are more concerned with beaches and bathing than with the subtler and +deeper interests of the spot. + +To the historian and to the antiquarian Colonia represents a gem. It +must be admitted that the values of such treasures go strictly by +comparison. Uruguay is rich in the amethyst and topaz, but poor in +architectural ruins. Indeed, these romantic features are +distressingly--or pleasingly--rare throughout all the lands that made +up the provinces of the old River Plate. So far as I am aware, almost +the sole examples of any real antiquity are to be met with in the +Jesuit ruins of Paraguay and the Misiones Province, and in the few +fragmentary Inca relics upon the Andes slopes. Beyond these there is +Colonia. Therefore if the gem lack the full brilliance of some of the +specimens that an older continent can produce, its importance must not +be under-estimated, since it possesses the rare merit of being all but +unique in its own country. + +From the Uruguayan bank of the great river Colonia faces Buenos Aires. +The one is not visible from the other, since almost forty miles +separate the two cities--a distance that has frequently been found too +short for the peace of mind of both. For, although they now sit on +their respective banks in undisturbed peace, the past has only too +many instances to show of how the pair opposed each other with an +active hostility that worked its share in the building up of the +warlike history of Colonia. + +The present fate of Colonia is much akin to that of many of those +spots that serve as the decayed shells of old-time battles and +terrific alarums. In short, it is a sleepy hollow. There are certainly +times when a large river steamer comes to rest for a while against its +wooden jetty, and disgorges a crowd of tourists who wander aimlessly +about the quaint streets. But such spells are short, since the +interests of the spot can compare in the minds of very few of such +visitors with the great bullring and pelota-court, recently erected +some half-dozen miles up-stream, to which they are on their way. Thus +the place has barely time to shake its old walls, and yawn with its +blank windows, wondering at this sudden new life that has sprung up +within it, when the spasm has passed away, and Colonia sinks back from +its semi-conscious state into full slumber again. + +The first impressions of the old town, when viewed from the river, +present a rather strange medley of brown, yellow, grey, white, pink, +and green. Thrown together as abruptly as this, the colour scheme +doubtless sounds perplexing. Yet in reality the tints blend with +consummate harmony. The brown is rendered by the rocks that hem in the +little bays and inlets of the foreground, while the lichen that clings +to the stone accounts for a strangely brilliant yellow. The grey is +produced by the most important asset of the town, the ruined walls and +battlements of the fortifications that pile themselves sullenly upon +the rocks along the river bank, penetrating the waters at many points. +The pink and white gleam very softly from the more modern houses in +the background that mingle with the old, crumbling erections of grey, +while at close intervals the verdure of trees and shrubs sprouts out +thickly from amongst the masonry. To conclude with all this colour, so +far as possible at one fell swoop, the town is dominated by a +brilliant white lighthouse shaft and the twin red towers of a modern +church. + +Undoubtedly one of the most curious effects for which Colonia is +responsible is that of its compactness. There is scarcely a town in +Uruguay, or in Argentina either, whose outskirts do not straggle far +away from the centre into the Campo. To one who has inevitably become +accustomed to these architectural loose-ends the accurately defined +boundaries of the riverside town are not a little striking. The reason +is a very simple one. In the old days the city of discord was +completely surrounded by fortifications and, since it has performed +the feat--almost unique in the country--of failing to grow in extent +since that time, its original abrupt boundaries have remained. The +result, from an artistic point of view, is undoubtedly far more +imposing than that produced by the stress of modern development. + +Colonia is not a town to be skimmed over lightly. It is worthy of +almost as careful a reconnoitring as it has frequently suffered in the +past. For the place can boast of half a dozen regular sieges, and +pitched battles, sallies, and skirmishes galore. Indians and +Spaniards, Spaniards and Portuguese, Uruguayans and Spaniards, +Uruguayans and Portuguese--all these have fought together here on +countless occasions, and yet the list of the warring companies is not +ended. The red ponchos of Urquiza's Gauchos have charged up to the +grey walls, staining the brown earth crimson as they went; buccaneers +of all nations have come and gone, and the scarlet of a British +garrison has gleamed out against the background of stone. Colonia is +the reddest spot of all in a sadly bloodstained land. + +But, however much the aftermath of battles may brood, the aspect of +the place is as fair as could be desired. Just opposite its site are +the first green islands of the river, the oceanward outposts of the +lengthy series that rest in the midst of the waters upstream. This +shore of the mainland itself is picturesque in another fashion. Bright +semicircles and crescents of sand fringe the rocks of the innumerable +small bays. Upon the natural boulders, and ledges, and heaps of +masonry above are clusters of green leaves starred with blossoms. Here +and there a growth of more artificial kind is spread upon the stone; +for the sole figures upon the foreshore are those of two washerwomen, +busily engaged amongst the pools, whose variegated harvest is +increasing in area as it is spread out to dry. + +[Illustration: COLONIA: RUINED FORTRESS WALL.] + +[Illustration: A CAMPO GRAVEYARD. +To face page 218.] + +In places the surface of the old masonry is level and wide; in others +it is necessary to leap from point to point just as it is in the case +of the rocks below. Scrambling and walking thus for several hundred +yards, the way lies past a collection of ruined houses, the massive +walls of which prick upwards in gaunt desolation. Beyond these again +is a narrow passage, paved principally by the chance falling of the +masonry, that leads into one of the actual streets of the town. + +The medley here is fascinating from the mere force of its quaintness. +The first houses that flank the slender thoroughfare as it winds its +way uphill are a few pink erections, fairly modern, with windows +plainly barred, and open doorways, through which is visible the +foliage that decorates the patio within. Side by side with these is a +building of quite another type, an old grey house, stately and +imposing, though now little beyond a shell of ruins. Its front is +thickly set with the remnants of graceful balconies, and with broken +shields and coats of arms. Upon the massive doorway is an ancient +bronze knocker in the form of a human hand. But the hapless instrument +has been silent now for many a generation, since at the back of the +doorway itself is nothing beyond a confusion of tumbled stone into +whose crevices the roots of the intruding shrubs and flowers have +pressed themselves. + +The street is quite deserted; the temptation to raise the bronze hand +and bang out the echoes is almost irresistible. It is certain that one +could arouse nothing beyond the ghosts of the past. Yet the answer to +such an appeal might prove a little too intense for the modern +tranquillity of mind. Confined to the days of peace, the vision would +be well enough. The house, the walls, the patio, the fretwork of the +balconies, the carving of the coats of arms--all these would be +intact and hung about with humanity. In obedience to the most +commonplace demands of the all-pervading romance, breeched men, whose +long-draped cloaks hid the lace and buckles of their costume, would +send out their voices and the tinklings of their guitars towards the +señoritas, whose soft eyes glowed beneath a tremendous headgear, and +who wore their filmy wrappings and short skirts with true Iberian +grace. + +Within the courtyard the negro slaves would lounge at their ease, +while near them would repose the great guardian dogs of the house. Now +and again would sound a heavy rumble from the street without that +signified the advent of visitors in a cumbrous coach of state--an +interruption that would still the notes of voice and guitar string, +and that would excite the negro attendants into sudden life and the +dogs into a delirium of barking. After which many grave bows and deep +curtseyings would prelude the quiet ceremony of entertainment. + +But if instead of this peaceful scene the wrong half of the past were +to appear! For there were times when the heavy booming and uproar drew +ever nearer from without, and then the faces of the señoritas as they +peered through the elaborate bars were ashy pale. There were moments, +too, when the last doubts had turned to a bitter certainty, when the +forms of fleeing men passed the house, and those of others, who +stayed, reddened the ground before the door. And last of all!--the +apparition of the strange men in hostile garb, the lust of slaughter +in their eyes as they rushed on, making another place of the once +familiar street. Thirsting for blood, hungry for booty, and for all +things beyond--the cheeks of the shuddering señoritas have not paled +without reason. After all, perhaps it is better to leave undisturbed +the knocker upon the old door. + +Such mental apparitions, moreover, could be multiplied indefinitely, +for there are a dozen houses of similar design, if of varied ruinous +importance, in the town. Indeed, the place breathes strongly of the +past. At a street corner here and there is an ancient cannon, buried +muzzle upwards into the ground, that serves to fend off from the +sidewalk such wheeled traffic as exists. After a while the narrow +street falls away, and the wide sweep of the plaza extends to the +front. + +The place was once the site of a rather peculiar feat of frontier +delimitation. The occasion was that of one of the numerous cessions by +treaty to Portugal of the town that the Spaniards were wont to win by +force of arms. On receiving the order from the Court of Spain to +evacuate the province in favour of the temporarily reconciled enemy +the staunch old Spanish Governor lost patience. The town, he knew full +well, he must surrender, but he refused to give up more even at the +command of his royal master. So he raised the muzzle of a cannon in +the plaza, fired a shot to right and left, and told the Portuguese +that the land within the range of the balls was theirs, but no more. +And with this they had to be content. + +There are now no cannon in the plaza, where, indeed, the wild shrubs +and grasses alone thrive. Passing across it, the river is approached +again, for Colonia covers a small promontory. Ere reaching the water +on the farther side, however, it is necessary to pass by far the most +imposing ruin in the place. By the side of the white lighthouse tower +a tall fragment of grey fortress wall rears itself aloft. Some four +feet thick throughout, its crumbling embrasures are strongly lit up by +the blue sky behind. + +From this point the ground slopes abruptly downwards towards the +shore. Here are more rocks, more mounds of ruined masonry, more +washerwomen--and the forms of a girl and of a man seated apart from +the rest upon the stones. The girl is flaming in all the pride of red +skirt and kerchief and yellow blouse. For all I know the latter +garment may not technically be admissible within the strict category +of blouses, but, failing a more intimate knowledge, it must pass as +something similar! By comparison with the very brilliant butterfly, +the man looms a dusky moth, whose only glitter lies in the great, +round, silver spurs that protrude from his high heels. Yet the +business of the pair is the same as ever! Though wrought out more +frequently when Colonia really lived, it obtains still amongst the +ruins. It is comforting to reflect that even the most simple of these +rural chains of the affections continues with links far less unbroken +than those of war! + +Some three miles distant from Colonia, and situated likewise upon the +banks of the river, is Real de San Carlo. Although such close +neighbours, it would be difficult to find two spots that differed more +widely from each other. Real de San Carlo is a mushroom of a place +that has only known existence for some two or three years. Since it is +planned as a pleasure resort pure and simple, the nature of Real de +San Carlo is to a certain extent artificial, and the brand-new +buildings have yet to be toned down by the softening process of age. + +So far the new bathing-place is deficient in the private +dwelling-houses and châlets that characterise the majority of such +spots. On the arrival of the steamer at the imposing pier, the eye is +arrested at once by the sight of two very large buildings, and by that +of one of a more moderate size. Beyond these there is little in the +way of architectural development, with the insignificant exception of +the cottages that house the labourers upon the place. + +[Illustration: THE BULL RING. +To face p. 222.] + +Of the two great buildings the bullring is the more notable. Indeed, +the enormous circular erection of white concrete is visible for a +distance of many miles in all directions. One side of the ground +beneath, sheltered by the rising spread of tiers that hold the seats, +is occupied by an open-air café, while the appointments within are of +the usual order to be met with in bullrings. It is here that the +periodical bullfights are held, and it is here, moreover, that many of +the noted Spanish fighters perform. + +In the neighbourhood of the bullring is the pelota-court, which is +only just now being completed, in which the famous Basque game is to +be played. This is likewise constructed of white concrete, and, +although its magnitude cannot rival that of the bullring, it is of an +amazing size for a building of the kind, holding galleries above, as +it does, that must be capable of seating several thousand spectators. +Compared with these two tremendous affairs, the hotel is of modest +dimensions and of unpretentious appearance. Nevertheless, were it to +stand apart from such overwhelming neighbours, it would doubtless +appear imposing enough. + +Real de San Carlo is well equipped to cope with the crowds of visitors +that the steamers already bring to its shore; it does things, in fact, +in a certain elaborate style of its own. A narrow-gauge steam tramway +runs between the jetty and the bullring, although the distance does +not exceed a quarter of a mile, and behind the miniature engine a +number of cars are in waiting, each containing a row of seats facing +outwards on either side. At the moment of the visit the bull-fighting +itself is undergoing a temporary lull--a fact that, from one's own +point of view, is very little to be regretted. So the tramcars, +crowded now, roll merrily onwards to a ring devoid of espadas, bulls, +horses, and blood, and for the majority of the tourists the chief +business of the day is confined to the precincts of the café in the +shade of the great building. + +Apart from these more artificial attractions, Real de San Carlo will +undoubtedly prove popular as a bathing resort. The fine white sands +and rippling waters here possess an invaluable auxiliary in the +delightful air with which the place is blessed. In this springtime of +the year, moreover, the sands themselves are decorated in rather an +unusual fashion. From them sprout masses of silver-white, thick, silky +leaves, and stems that support blossoms that exactly resemble small +sunflowers. The effect that the great stretches of these present is +distinctly striking. Thickly spangling the white sand is a silver +glow, topped by the yellow of the blossoms above--a colour scheme that +gives a strangely fairylike and unreal impression. As though to lend a +touch of warmer colour, thousands of butterflies, all of a variety of +the painted-lady species, are hovering in clouds about the blossoms. + +Just inland, where the undulations of the real country begin, the +lanes are ablaze with passionflower and honeysuckle--but the steamer +is whistling impatiently in the distance, and the tourists are +flocking back to the tramcars. It is time to return, and to mingle +with the crowd once more, the great majority of which are returning to +Buenos Aires. For it is on the inhabitants of this city, within a +couple of hours' steam across the river, that Real de San Carlo +depends for its popularity, and consequent welfare. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +THE URUGUAY RIVER + + A great waterway--The river compared with the Paraná--Some + questions of navigation--The lower stretch of the Uruguay--The + stream from Montevideo upwards--Montevideo--The docks--An + imposing array of Mihanovich craft--Breadth of the river--Aspects + of the banks--Various types of vessels--The materials of their + cargoes--The meeting of sister steamers--The etiquette of + salutations--Fray Bentos--The Lemco factory and port--A notable + spot--The paradise of the eater--The islands of Uruguay--Method + of their birth and growth--The responsibility of leaves and + branches--Uncertainty of island life--The effects of flood and + current--Sub-tropical bergs--The vehicles of wild creatures--A + jaguar visitation in Montevideo--Narrowing of the + stream--Paysandú--The home of ox-tongues--The second commercial + town of the Republic--Some features of the place--Variety of the + landscape--The _Mesa de Artigas_--An historical table-land--A + monument to the national hero--Salto--A striking town--Pleasant + landscape--The Salto falls--The ending of the lower Uruguay--A + rocky bed--Some minerals of Salto--Alteration in the colour of + the water--The beauty of the upper Uruguay. + + +As a waterway the Uruguay River is of infinite service to the Republic +whose western coastline it serves. It is true that, compared with the +Paraná, the stream suffers somewhat both as regards length and +navigable facilities. Both rivers have much in common, in that either +has its source in the mountain ranges that fringe the coast of Brazil, +and either flows first to the west, then southwards until the junction +of the pair forms the broad River Plate. But, whereas the Paraná rises +in latitude 22° south the first waters of the Uruguay do not come +into being until 28° south. The latter, in consequence, has to +content itself with a course of a thousand miles, rather less than +half the length of its neighbour. + +The lower stretch of the Uruguay holds an obstacle to navigation that +is unknown in the corresponding waters of the Paraná. At Salto, some +two hundred miles above the mouth, falls extend from the one bank to +the other, and thus bar the passage of all vessels. Above this place, +however, is the starting-point for the lighter draught steamers that +continue their northward course for many hundreds of miles. + +As though to compensate for the barrier, the first two hundred miles +of the Uruguay represent a particularly noble highway of waters, far +broader and more imposing, indeed, than the equivalent stretch of the +Paraná. Ocean-going vessels here penetrate to Paysandú, and beyond it +to the Lemco port of Colón on the Argentine shore, while the really +magnificent steamers of the River King, Mihanovich, produce their +finest specimens to ply to and fro here. But, as the banks of the +stream contain not only some of the most fertile lands in the Republic +but much of interest beyond, it is worth while to follow its course, +beginning at Montevideo itself, which, as a matter of fact, is +somewhat to anticipate the waters of the true Uruguay. + +By the quayside of the capital are grouped three or four of the +Mihanovich craft, large, two-funnelled vessels with an imposing array +of decks surmounted by an unusually spacious promenade that crowns the +whole. One of these is bound for Salto--or rather for the Argentine +town of Concordia that lies opposite that port--but just now it is not +advisable to be tied hard and fast to her broad decks, since she must +call at Buenos Aires on her way, and at many other spots outside +Uruguay and the scope of this book. + +We will therefore perform the strange feat of making a break in the +trip ere it is begun. In any case it is necessary to leave the quay +over whose broad, paved surface of reclaimed land the cabs are +rattling, and where the policeman and porters stand, and where, +moreover, a strong group of Salvationists are singing lustily, +surrounded by a motley but attentive group such as the precincts of a +port attract. But the graceful _Triton_ shall churn her way out into +the open without us, since we will cling so far as possible to the +Uruguayan shore, forging upwards through the yellowing waters, to halt +at Sauce with its willow-covered lands and Colonia with its rocky +beach, until Carmelo is passed, and at Nueva Palmira the River Uruguay +has been fairly entered. Even then, however, it is necessary to accept +the fact more or less on trust, and to confide in the accuracy of the +map rather than in that of the eyesight. For the faint line that has +recently appeared on the horizon to the left might as well stand for a +distant streak upon the waters as for the low-lying Argentine shore +that it actually represents. + +To the right, the Uruguayan bank is well defined. Here the undulations +of the land swell boldly out from the edge of the river, while in many +places rocks and boulders strew the sloping foreshore as though to +accentuate the frontier between stream and land that is so faintly +defined upon the opposite coast. Here and there the verdure of the +hills is broken by the darker green bands of the eucalyptus +plantations, through which from time to time gleam the white walls of +an estancia-house. At intervals the chimneys of a saladero prick +upwards from the nearer neighbourhood of the bank. About these centres +of their doom the speck-like figures of the cattle dot the surrounding +pastures, grazing in fortunate ignorance of their end. + +The traffic upon the river itself is by no means inconsiderable. +Native topsail schooners laden with jerked beef, fruit, and timber +come gliding serenely down the stream beneath their spread of sail. +One of these craft is especially indicative of the main industry of +the land. The vessel is laden as high as the booms will permit with +horns of cattle, the bleaching mounds of which must represent the +sacrifice of many thousands of animals. There are smart Government +tugs, too, that hold the official guardians of the mighty stream, and +great dredgers of queer and monstrous shape that steam slowly along to +find an anchorage where the bottom is shallow, and there remorselessly +to bite out mouthfuls from the unduly lofty bed. + +At rarer intervals appear the ocean-going craft and sailing vessels. +It would be safe to wager that there is not one of those passing +down-stream that is not laden with some portions or other of the +bodies bequeathed to humanity by the unconsulted yet generous bovine +souls. Nevertheless the exact species of cargo would be more difficult +to predict. It might be beef itself, or hides that will make leather +upon which to sit while consuming the meat, or horns which will +provide handles for the necessary complement of knives, or indeed many +other products useful for similar purposes. There never was such a +creature as the ox for the provision of a variety of articles that all +eloquently urge the benefit of his death! + +A tall and majestic structure has come into sight from round a bend in +the stream now, and is sweeping rapidly downwards. With grey hull, +white upper-works about her rows of decks, and twin black funnels to +cap the whole, she is one of the proud fleet of steamers that ply +throughout the entire system of the great rivers. If the vessel upon +which you may be found bears a corresponding =M= upon its +funnel--which in the case of a passenger craft may be taken as a +practical certainty--you may be assured that you will not be passed +without recognition, even if sheltered by a mere paltry stern-wheeler +that is bound for one of the small tributary streams. Combining +affability with size, the whale will blow out three deep roars of +salute from its great horn, that will be echoed by a like number of +shrill notes from the treble whistle of the minnow. Such is the +etiquette throughout the entire length of the rivers. The six blows +are sounding throughout the day from the tropics of Brazil downwards +to where the La Plata and the ocean meet. + +Upon the right-hand side Fray Bentos has come into view, marked in the +first place by a great collection of tall black chimneys glistening in +the sun. Beneath is verdure, and massive white buildings, and streets +of dwelling-houses, while to the front is the Lemco port with a small +forest of masts rising from its waters. The place, in a double sense, +represents the very incarnation of Uruguay's trade. A greedy spot that +swallows live cattle by tens of thousands to render them up again in +the pathetically diminished form of extract! Even now the odour of +soup floats heavily in the air from across a mile of water--a proof +that Fray Bentos is busily occupied in turning out its brown rivers of +fluid. + +The factory, the most notable in the country, is indeed strongly +symbolical of the land where starvation in ordinary circumstances of +peace has never yet been known. Havana may be the paradise of the +smoker, Epernay that of the champagne lover; but the eater's heaven is +undoubtedly situated in Uruguay, a paradise in which the spirits of +departed and honest butchers might well revel in perfect joy. + +Just above Fray Bentos the islands dot the river more plentifully +than in almost any other part of the great stream. As is the case on +the Paraná, it is difficult enough at times to distinguish between +these and the true bank on the Argentine shore; both are equally lowly +and each covered with the same density of willows and native scrub. +Amongst these larger islands, however, whose surface may comprise +several square miles, are numerous smaller pieces of land, and some +quite diminutive specimens that can lay claim to no more than a few +yards of area. These are baby islands--young territories that have +only just succeeded in raising their heads above water. For an island +here is conceived, grows, and dies in a fashion that is vegetable +rather than purely earthy. The fact is not really curious, seeing that +vegetation is directly concerned in their birth. + +The conception of one of these is evident even now. A tangle of the +thick leaves of the camelota--the water plant with its mauve +hyacinth-like flower--has in its downward floating course fouled the +earth of a shallow in mid-stream. The arrested clump of green has +already inveigled other objects to keep it company in its trap. A few +sticks and branches and tufts of grass are already fast in the embrace +of the powerful stems and green leaves, while at the end that faces +the stream the water-driven sand has risen at the obstacle, and has +shyly protruded a small round hump or two above the ripples. The life +of the thing is as uncertain as that of a seedling or of a human +child. Under favourable conditions it will grow and solidify year by +year until from the few leaves and sticks will have extended some +square miles of tree-covered soil. On the other hand, it may be swept +remorselessly away in its earliest days ere the tentative formation +has had time to secure sufficiently firm hold of the earth. + +[Illustration: ON THE URUGUAY RIVER.] + +[Illustration: A URUGUAYAN STREAM. +To face p. 230.] + +In any case the life of these islands is comparatively short, and +fresh floods and currents are forming some and destroying others all +the while. During these periods of flood many of them would seem +possessed of the characteristics of icebergs. Detached by the +irresistible force of the currents, great fragments of the vegetation +and camelota plant that cling to their sides go swirling down the +stream. Though they can boast no polar bears, they are occasionally +freighted with other beasts whose neighbourhood is equally +undesirable. On such occasions snakes and many four-footed specimens +of northern creatures form the unwilling tenants of these frail rafts +of vegetation. It is said that many years ago one of unusually large +size struck the shore of Montevideo itself, disgorging four jaguars, +who entered the town as much to their own terror as to that of the +inhabitants. + +With Fray Bentos once left in the rear, the river becomes distinctly +narrowed, and, where no islands intervene, the features of either bank +begin to be clearly distinguished at the same time. The Argentine +shore has broken away from its dead level now, and is rising in gentle +undulations; the Uruguayan coast, too, as though in a determined +endeavour to retain its physical superiority, has taken to heap itself +in far loftier and more imposing hills than before. + +The next town of importance at which the steamer halts is that of +Paysandú, the great centre of ox-tongues. Indeed, were one to adopt +the popular figurative methods of certain magazines, amazing results +might well be extracted from the commerce of the place. Thus, +supposing a year's accumulation of Paysandú ox-tongues were able +jointly to give forth the notes that they were wont to render in life, +the effect of the combined roar would probably be to deafen the entire +populace of the Republic, and to blow every atom of water from the +river! The number of men they would feed, and the distance they would +cover if extended in a line I do not know; but it may be taken for +granted that the export of these preserved instruments of bovine +speech is very considerable. + +Paysandú ranks as the second commercial city in the Republic. It is +true that, so far as size is concerned, it is altogether dwarfed by +Montevideo, since the inhabitants of the smaller town number only +twenty thousand or so. Yet, the centre of a rich pastoral and +agricultural province, the place is of no little commercial +importance, and, although its architecture remains largely of the +pleasant but old-fashioned Spanish style, not a few new buildings and +boulevards have already sprung into existence. Like the majority of +towns of its kind, it is well equipped with electric lighting, +telephones, and other such modern appliances, although its tramcar +traction is still effected by the humbler methods of the horse. + +To the north of Paysandú the stream narrows, the islands become few +and far between, and the course of the river is distinct and +well-defined. The landscape, too, is more varied now than that of the +lower reaches. Among the Uruguayan rounded hills a few well-marked +tablelands spread their broad, level surfaces in the way that is +characteristic of so many parts of the Republic. Both the inland +valleys and river banks are covered with an added density of +vegetation, while beaches of shining white sand jut out at intervals +from the shore. As for the Argentine bank, it has quite suddenly +assumed a marked individuality of its own. It is covered with a +reddish yellow rolling soil, tinged only lightly with green, from +which close groves of palm-trees sprout upwards for mile after mile. +It is as though a portion of Africa on the one shore were facing a +rather wooded and broken portion of the South Downs on the other! + +The water itself has been growing more limpid all the while, now that +the dead-flat, soft, alluvial soil of the Argentine bank has given way +to a harder and more stony surface. It has become shallow in parts, +too, and the nose of the steamer often gives a tentative turn to the +right or left as she cautiously feels her way. The craft has +penetrated almost to the limits of the lower stretch of the great +river now, and the rising bed is a premonitory symptom of the end. + +On the right has now risen the loftiest bluff that has yet marked the +Uruguayan shore. It forms one of the walls of a striking and bold +table-land. The place is now known as the _Mesa de Artigas_--the table +of Artigas. It was upon the summit of this hill that the Uruguayan +national hero had his chief encampment, and it has been described as a +desolate and lonely spot, haunted by murdered spirits and by the +memory of horrors, that no living being cared to approach. The +description cannot be said to hold good at the present moment. The +green slopes are dotted with grazing cattle and sheep, while at one +point the distant figures of two mounted Gauchos are careering to and +fro, and the cattle in the neighbourhood are wheeling together and +lumbering forward as a result of their manoeuvres. + +On the summit of the tableland is a peculiarly tall stone pedestal +that rises from a great pyramidal base to soar high upwards against +the sky-line. The shaft is surmounted by a bust that represents +Artigas himself. The entire structure is on the colossal side, and the +effect of the bust poised on high against the blue of the air is +curious rather than effective. Viewing it from far below, it is +difficult to avoid the impression that the head and shoulders, placed +half-way between earth and heaven, are pleading with mute eloquence +for a body and legs with which to grasp more firmly the summit of the +sustaining shaft. In any case the monument is bold, and affords a +strikingly conspicuous landmark for an area of many leagues. + +To the north of the Mesa de Artigas the landscape of the river +continues bold and hilly. A score or so of miles up-stream from the +monument lies the town of Salto, the last place of real importance +upon this stretch of the Uruguayan frontier. With its buildings rising +to cover the hills of its site, the panorama of Salto is more imposing +in its way than that of any other town on the banks of the stream. +Indeed, piled on the summit of cliffs and bluffs, the white masses of +masonry, crowned by a few steeples and towers, are visible from far +inland upon the Argentine territory as well as from the remoter +neighbourhoods of its own soil. The river just here is exceptionally +populous, since facing Salto from across the waters is Concordia, a +large and thriving Argentine town. + +The population of Salto is slightly in excess of twenty thousand, and, +like every other town along the length of the stream, it serves as a +storehouse for the pastoral and agricultural industries of the +district. In many respects, however, the situation of the town gives +it a commercial scope greater than that of the more southern towns. +Although the climate lacks sufficient heat for the production of the +banana and similar sub-tropical growths, the variety of fruit is very +great. The orange flourishes in exceptional abundance here, and its +cultivation forms a valuable addition to the wealth of the district. + +[Illustration: CATTLE ON THE ROAD.] + +[Illustration: A CORNER OF THE FRAY BENTOS FACTORY. +To face p. 234.] + +Pleasantly situated, with shaded plazas and avenues, and with the +orchards, vineyards, orange-groves, and well-timbered country of its +outskirts, Salto lies at the end--or, to be more accurate, the +beginning--of the lower Uruguay. Just above the town a white foaming +line stretches from bank to bank during the periods when the river is +low. But these lower falls are navigable during a considerable portion +of the year, and not until Salto Grande, at a point considerably +higher up, is the permanent barrier to navigation reached. Between +Salto itself and Concordia the river is plentifully strewn with rocks, +and, although the channels are deep, it is necessary on this head for +vessels to use considerable caution, more especially as the tide races +fiercely just here. Indeed, the fluctuations of the stream at this +point are very great, and account for the tremendously lofty wooden +passenger pier that serves the town. + +It is in the neighbourhood of Salto that is found the curious water +stone that is referred to elsewhere in this book. It is in this +province too that exist the topaz and amethyst mines. The visitor, +however, need not trouble his head to start out upon any expedition +with the object of picking up any of these curiosities. The topaz and +amethyst fields are well-defined private property, while the +water-stone is as shy and elusive as a four-leaved clover at home. If +in quest of these objects, it is wiser to restrict the field of +adventure to the Salto shops. + +It has been noticeable all the time whilst ascending the river that +the water has steadily become less tinged with yellow. Above the +falls, however, the distinction is far more marked. The stream here is +peculiarly limpid, and the effect at a northern spot such as Santa +Rosa, almost on the Brazilian frontier, is entrancing. Here the river +is at times of a brilliant blue tint--a broad azure ribbon winding +between swelling banks covered now with dense folds of vegetation. +Viewed from the rising ground in the neighbourhood, the conviction is +inevitable that, although the northern waters may have lost a little +in commercial importance, the Upper Uruguay can lay claim to a degree +of beauty with which the lower reaches, for all their charm, cannot +compete. + + + + +CHAPTER XX + +THE URUGUAYAN CAMPO + + Formation of the land--A survey of the country--Features of the + soil--Types of wild flowers--A land of hill, valley, and + stream--The glamour of the distance--"The purple land"--Breezes + of the Campo--An exhilarating country--The dearth of + homesteads--The Uruguayan Gaucho--His physique--The product of + the blowy uplands--Matters of temperament--His comparative + joviality--The Gaucho as worker, player, and fighter--The + manipulation of feuds--A comparison between Argentina and + Uruguay--Warrior ancestors of the Gaucho--His sense of dignity + and honour--Conservative habits and customs--Costume and horse + gear--Strenuous _bailes_--Some homeric feats of dancing--Stirring + revelry--The Uruguayan land-owner--Foreign elements in the + land--Negro inhabitants of the Banda Oriental--The numerical + status of the Africans in the north and in the south--Absence of + a racial question--The slavery of former days--The employment of + black troops in war--Lenient treatment of negro slaves--Harsh + measures applied to aboriginal Indians--A lesson in human + economy--Testimony of a contemporary writer--Immigrant colonies. + + +The Uruguayan Campo is not to be described without a certain amount of +hesitation. It would be simple enough for one who had caught only a +distant passing glimpse of the land of the pastures to put down the +country without further ado as rolling grass upland watered by many +streams. That such is the foundation of the Campo is undeniable. +Nevertheless to begin and end with such a phrase would be equivalent +to a description of the peacock as a bird who wears coloured feathers. + +The subtle charms of the Uruguayan Campo are not to be discerned +through the medium of the bioscope-like glimpses that so many +travellers obtain of it. Very rightly, it refuses to reveal itself +fully until a certain amount of familiarity has justified a nearer +acquaintance. From an æsthetic point of view it certainly holds far +more than might be expected from a country of such comparatively +limited attributes. + +If you desire to watch the moods of this rural Banda Oriental, ride +out to mount one of the higher shoulders of the downland, and wait +there, either in the saddle or out of it. You will obtain little +sympathy in the task. Eccentric to the mind of the estancieros, +frankly mad in the eagle eyes of the Gaucho--a calm survey of the +Campo is worth all such merely human depreciation! + +The aspect of the country in the immediate neighbourhood of where the +observer has taken his stand will be green in the main, although the +unbroken verdure by no means obtains throughout. Here and there the +ground is strongly marked by the occasional heaps of stones that come +jostling to the surface, and that recline in the fashion of small +bleak islands in the midst of the green waves. But, should the time be +spring, these latter are themselves flecked frequently almost to the +extinction of their own colouring. The great purple bands and patches +of the _flor morala_ lie thickly upon the land. These, however, stand +apart, since where they glow the serried ranks of blossom permit no +others to raise their heads. + +[Illustration: A PASTORAL SCENE. +To face p. 238.] + +But these, though the boldest of their kind, are by no means the sole +occupants of the landscape. Indeed, one of the chief characteristics +of the Banda Oriental Campo is the wealth of beautiful and +comparatively lowly plants that grow amidst the grasses. They are of +the type of English blossoms, peering out shyly from between the +green blades, blowing purely and sweetly in their innocence of the +heavy sickliness of the tropics. It is where the ground is chiefly +dotted with these fresh flowers that the smile of the Campo is most +brilliant. + +So much for the immediate surroundings up to the point where the more +intricate markings become merged in the broader tints of the +landscape. Down in the hollows are bands of dark, close green formed +by the trees that shade the streams. With scarcely a break in the +narrow walls of verdure they run from valley to valley, accurately +defining the banks of the small rivers whose waters they conceal. +Within these leafy lanes lurk the only spots upon the Campo, save for +the rare woodland, that do not stare frankly upwards, exposing all +their earthly soul to the blue sky. + +Away in the far distance there is a magic glamour. There the lands are +no longer green to the eye. The soft waves, as they rise and dip in an +accumulation of folds towards the final horizon line, are bathed in +warm purple. The Banda Oriental has been called "the purple land" by +one who knew it well, and never was a name better applied. Without the +foreground--that is itself strongly purpled by the banks of the _flor +morula_--all is purple and mystic. The land has its ordinary mirages +as well; but here is one that at all times confronts the +traveller--that wonderful land of the horizon that, unattainable, dies +farther away as it is approached. + +Yet, notwithstanding its soft romance, the place is essentially alive. +It is a blowy haunt of clean fresh airs that sweep the slopes and open +valleys to billow the grass tops and to refresh mankind. It is amidst +such surroundings that the Oriental of the country dwells. His type is +not very numerous, it is true, and--although the dearth of houses +suits the landscape itself most admirably--the scarcity of habitation +is a little lamentable in so wealthy and pleasant a land. It is +practically certain, as a matter of fact, that the pastures will bear +more roots in the near future than they have ever known in the past; +but in the meanwhile it is necessary to take them as they are, and +their inhabitants as well. + +Of these inhabitants the true _paisano_, the Gaucho, decidedly claims +the chief share of attention. The Gaucho of the Banda Oriental is not +to be confused with his brethren of the neighbouring countries. In +appearance he presents perhaps the finest specimen amongst the various +kindred families of his race. He is taller in stature, and, if +possible, even more athletic in his lithe frame than his neighbour. +His complexion, moreover, though frequently dusky and invariably +tanned, is peculiarly wholesome and fresh. It was inevitable that the +blowy downlands should have produced a fitting and appropriate breed +of amazingly healthy, hardy, and fearless men to whom the art of +horsemanship has become second nature, while the occasional enforced +spells of pedestrianism have degenerated into a mere unwelcome +accident of life. + +The temperament of the Uruguayan Gaucho shows corresponding +distinction from that of the rest. It goes without saying that he is +strongly imbued with the grim dignity of the race. Silent austerity +here, however, is modified by lighter traits. In the same way as the +higher social member of his country, he is more easily moved to +laughter than his neighbours, and indulges from time to time in frank +outbursts of joviality. + +For practical purposes it is necessary to regard this child of the +Campo from three standpoints--from that of the worker, the player, and +the fighter. It is rare enough that one of them is not called upon to +fill all these three rôles on a good many occasions during his +lifetime. As stock-rider, he has proved his courage, fidelity, and +honesty of purpose to the full; his moments of recreation are taken up +by equestrian sports, guitar-playing, and chance affairs of the heart, +whilst in warfare he has had only too many opportunities of displaying +his reckless brilliancy--frequently, it must be admitted, at the cost +of discipline and order. + +In his private quarrels the Argentine Gaucho will bottle up his wrath +until his overflowing passion culminates without warning in the rapid +knife thrust or revolver shot. The conclusion of a serious dispute +between his Uruguayan brethren will almost certainly be the same; but +the tragic climax will be approached in quite another fashion. The +atmospheric effervescence of the Banda Oriental will enter into the +case. There will be shouting, vociferation, and not a little abuse. +Not until a fair exchange of all this has been bandied to and fro will +come the flash of steel or flame--and the red stain upon the grasses +of the Campo. + +That these dwellers upon the downlands should prove themselves born +fighters is no matter for surprise. For the dusky side of their +ancestry they claim the Charrúa Indians, the fiercest and most warlike +of all the tribes in the neighbouring provinces. With this strain +added to the blood of the old Spaniards, and the mixture fostered and +nourished by the breezy hills, the result has been a being whose keen +sense of dignity and honour were ever in the very active custody of +knife or lance. + +As is perhaps natural enough in a land whose interests--as compared +with the agricultural development of the neighbouring countries--are +almost purely pastoral, the habits and customs of the Oriental have +remained unusually conservative. His poncho is a veritable poncho, +often of a bizarre and daring hue; his spurs are weapons that glitter +in huge circles at his heels, while his horse furniture is frequently +silvered to the very last degree. + +When the Gaucho undertakes a dance--a _baile_--moreover, he enters +into the performance with a zest that puts to shame the human products +of a later civilisation. In order to witness one of the most homeric +of these exhibitions it is necessary to suppose the revellers in the +peculiarly reckless and irresponsible mood that from time to time +falls to their lot. On such an occasion their wonted strict sobriety +is abruptly melted beneath the flow of the native spirit, caña, and +perhaps that of wine, and of beer. Then upon the open sward of the +Campo they will dance their _tangos_, stepping it manfully for hour +after hour. + +Indeed, strengthened by the intervals of rest, refreshment, and sleep, +it is not unusual for them to continue these tremendous terpsichorean +feats for two or three days on end. At the conclusion of which, having +danced themselves out and drunk themselves in, these astonishing +mortals are perfectly ready for their strenuous work in the saddle! + +Having concluded with the Gaucho, it soon becomes evident that the +main features of individuality that distinguish the Uruguayan from his +neighbours are very nearly finished with as well. The landowner, it is +true, still clings in parts to ancient customs and the remnants of +national costume rather more closely than elsewhere in the Southern +republics. But the distinctions here are less marked, and in the case +of the townsmen have disappeared altogether. An important factor in +the population is now provided by the large foreign element that has +settled itself permanently in the country. By far the most numerous +communities of these are those of the Italians and Spaniards; but in +addition there is scarcely a European country that is not more or less +strongly represented by its emigrants. + +The negro race, although its presence is more marked than in the +republics to the West, is quite insignificant numerically in the South +of Uruguay. Towards the north, however, the numbers of the Africans +are much increased, and as the Brazilian frontier is closely +approached, the black people tend rather to predominate over the +white. It is only in these remote districts that the possibility of a +racial question could be involved. As a matter of fact, such an +eventuality is quite undreamed of, and nowhere in the world is it less +likely to occur. In the absence of any drawn distinction the negro +appears to exist in more or less complete peace, and only meddles with +the affairs of the country during troublous times when instructed by +the true lords of the soil, whose actual superiority would seem all +the greater for the fact of its being unexpressed. + +Considering the number of slaves that were imported directly into +Uruguay as well as those that filtered southwards through Brazil, it +is perhaps somewhat a matter for astonishment that these blacks are +not numerically stronger than is the case. The explanation lies +largely in the numerous wars by which the country has been harassed in +the past, and in the policy that prevailed under the old Spanish +regime. Black troops were freely employed then, and it must be +admitted that they met with far less consideration than the rest. If a +desperate situation arose, they were wont to be sent out in search of +a glory that was very remote and of a death that was very near, not +necessarily because the Spaniards feared for themselves in the +attempt, but rather on account of the science of racial economy, and +on the principle of sacrificing the pawns before the more +aristocratic chessmen. And it is to these wholesale gaps in the black +ranks that the existing scarcity of the negro population in the South +is largely due. + +Not that it must be inferred from this that the general treatment of +the African slaves by the Spaniards was severe. Their fate has always +been entirely distinct from that of the unfortunate native Indians. +The blood of these latter, slain by the first generation of +adventurous _conquistadores_, flowed in red rivers almost the length +and breadth of South America, while tens of thousands more sank and +died beneath the superhuman tasks imposed upon them. + +Nevertheless they were not sacrificed from mere wanton love of +slaughter. Held as soulless instruments from whom the last possible +ounce of labour was to be extracted, these fearful slaughterings were +instigated as acts of discipline that should make more pliant and +serviceable material of the general body, while the cowed met their +slower, toilful death in order that their masters should obtain wealth +ere the advent from Europe of further competitors who might desire to +share their wealth with them. + +After a while the limitations both of the continent and of the labour +capacities of its natives became evident, and the first spasms of the +remorseless and feverish lust moderated. It was then that the +introduction of the negro occurred. With the maturing of the continent +came a milder and more settled form of civilisation, of which the +dusky imported labourers obtained the full benefit. That they were +well cared for in times of peace is testified to not only by the +native historians but by perfectly unbiassed English travellers. One +of these, who visited Uruguay during the last years of the Spanish +dominion, is particularly emphatic on the point. + +"There is one trait," he writes, "in the South American Spaniards +much in their favour. I mean the mild, humane, and gentle treatment +which their slaves receive. This one would scarcely expect from the +cruelty they manifest to animals. The condition of the Africans here +is without doubt happier than in any other part of the world where +they are held in slavery, and I will even venture to say, more so than +in their native country. A severe punishment is seldom inflicted; the +tasks imposed on them are light, and such as they can easily execute. +Indeed, they scarcely seem to be slaves." + +If any palliation for enforced human labour were possible it might be +looked for in evidence such as this. Nevertheless, since nothing of +the kind is admissible, it is well to remember that the slave era in +the River Plate countries is now a matter of comparatively remote +history. Moreover, as though in compensation for a former servitude, +however light, the lot of the African here is now undoubtedly happier +than almost anywhere else in the world. + +In addition to the ordinary foreign landowners and residents in +Uruguay are a few of the regular immigrant colonies the establishment +of which has now become so popular throughout the Southern republics. +Of these the most important is the Swiss Colony in the neighbourhood +of Colonia, to which reference has already been made. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI + +ESTANCIA LIFE + + Similarities between the farming routine of Uruguay and of + Argentina--The Banda Oriental a pastoral rather than an + agricultural land--Viticulture an asset in estancia + affairs--Wheat, maize, and linseed--Scarcity of + alfalfa--Excellence of the natural pastures--The possibilities of + private agricultural colonisation--Favourable outlook for grazing + countries in general--Lemco estancias--The estancia San Juan--A + comprehensive enterprise--Cattle, cereals, and viticulture--Stone + quarries--A Campo sketch--The cutting out of a bullock--A Gaucho + meal. + + +The Uruguayan estancia life resembles that of Argentina very closely. +And of this latter so much has been written in recent years that a too +lengthy description of the routine of one of the great cattle farms +would almost inevitably savour of repetition and superfluity. The +duties of both estanciero and his major-domo are, indeed, almost +identical with those of their brethren upon the other side of the +great river. There are similar rides of inspection in order to "revise +camp," similar great _rodeos_, or gatherings of cattle, and a general +method of life that is distinct from the other merely in minor +details. + +[Illustration: THE BICHADERO ESTANCIA.] + +[Illustration: HEREFORD CATTLE ON THE BICHADERO ESTANCIA. +To face p. 246.] + +In the main ethics of the farming itself, it is true, there are some +differences. Seeing that Uruguay is a pastoral rather than an +agricultural land, the system of setting apart a certain proportion of +a private estancia for the purpose of colonisation by crop-raising +tenants is almost unknown. On the other hand, as it happens that +the soil of a portion of almost every province is suitable for +viticulture, a great number of the Uruguayan landowners throughout the +republic cultivate vineyards--an industry that in Argentina is +confined almost entirely to the two great grape-growing centres of +Mendoza and San Juan. In many districts of the Banda Oriental, +moreover, fruit-growing forms part and parcel of the industrial +programme of an estancia, instead of necessarily forming an entirely +separate branch of commerce, as is the case in Argentina. + +Although I have referred to Uruguay as an essentially pastoral +country, it must not be inferred from this that the cultivation of +cereals and the like has no existence in the land. On the contrary, +many districts--notably that of Colonia, the most fertile in the +Republic--produce really important quantities of wheat and maize, and +a certain amount of linseed beyond, although this latter is grown in a +minor degree. Very few districts in the country are adapted for the +favourable cultivation of alfalfa, a fact that is undoubtedly to be +regretted, since the merits of this lucerne for the purposes of +fattening cattle are supreme. Yet this disadvantage is to a great +extent counterbalanced by the excellent pastures of natural grass with +which Uruguay is so plentifully endowed. + +It is likely enough, too, that the system of private agricultural +colonisation referred to above will in the future be seriously +undertaken. At the present moment experiments in this direction are +being undertaken, and, should the landowners become impressed with the +success of the departure, it is quite possible that the system will +spread with the same rapidity as was the case in Argentina. + +In the meanwhile the supreme interest of Uruguay remains pastoral; and +the bulls and the rams continue to be lords in the land. In a sense +this is undoubtedly just as well, for in all probability never was the +outlook for grazing countries more favourable than it is at the +present moment, when the exports of North America are rapidly dying +away, and the markets of Europe are opening their metaphorical mouths +in a clamorous demand for further supplies. + +Some of the largest and most imposing of the Uruguayan estancias are +situated in the western districts of the Republic. Many of these, such +as the Bichadero, Ombú, and others, are owned by the Lemco Company, +and constitute most imposing estates, stocked by pedigree cattle. + +The San Juan estancia is situated in the neighbourhood of Colonia, +and, under the able management of Mr. J. Booth, affords one of the +best possible examples of an estate whose lands have been aptly +utilised to serve various purposes. The estancia is noted in the first +place for the quality of its live stock--and with no little reason, +since it harbours over a thousand head of pedigree shorthorn and +Hereford cattle. + +But the energies of the San Juan estancia are not confined to the +raising of cattle and the production of maize. Viticulture is a matter +of great importance here, for the place enjoys a great repute for the +quality of its wine. Its vineyards, as a matter of fact, repose on a +subsoil of iron-stone rocks, which lends a particularly pleasant +flavour to the vintages. In addition to the great vineyards that +spread themselves over portions of the estate, the cellars of its +bodega are well worth a visit. The building is specially constructed +for the purpose, and contains air-spaces between the inner and outer +walls, thus rendering the interior to all intents and purposes +damp-proof. + +The cellars contain forty-two large casks, each with a capacity for +holding 3,600 litres, and, beyond these, twelve giant specimens, in +each of which eight thousand litres of wine may be stored. The extent +of the vineyards on the place is thirty hectares, and from this area +an average 250,000 litres of wine are produced annually. Thus it will +be seen that the vineyard industry of San Juan is of no mean +importance. + +Among the other branches of general industry in which San Juan is +interested is that of stone-quarries, the quality and extent of the +deposits here being considerable. A large bee-farm is also attached to +the place. In addition to this comprehensive programme there are, of +course, the ordinary side-issues of estancia production in the way of +both live stock and agriculture. Among the horses bred are not a few +racers of pedigree stock that have given a good account of themselves +in the neighbourhood and elsewhere. + +The estancia-house of San Juan is delightfully situated amidst orange, +wattle, and paraiso trees, from whose trunks and branches hang +festoons of air-plants and masses of yellow orchids. From the +picturesque, shaded building itself the view embraces miles of +undulating country on all sides, with a few distant peeps of the +waters of the River Plate to the south-west. It would be difficult to +conceive a pleasanter or a better managed spot. + +Such estancias as these, of course, represent the cream of the land, +and Uruguayan "camp" life must not be judged as a whole by such +particularly favourable examples. Even the foreigner in the Republic, +whose life is wont to be rather more fully surrounded with comfort +than that of his native-born brother, must perforce make a beginning, +and, as in all else, it is always the first steps that are the +roughest. It is said that one of the first requisites of a gardener +is a cast-iron back. In the same way the primary needs of the budding +estanciero are undoubtedly health and a good horse. In these respects +he is likely to be well suited, for the climate will attend to the +former and his _patron_ to the latter. + +I have already said that the scenes upon the Uruguayan estancias are +much the same as elsewhere, but the following sketch may serve to show +a little of the local colour with which the rural Oriental landscape +and life are imbued: + + * * * * * + +[Illustration: ESTANCIA HOUSE: SAN JUAN. +To face p. 250.] + +The bullock is grazing in the midst of his fellows, plucking stolidly +at the spring grass, whose close blades paint the undulations of the +Uruguayan Campo in soft green. No pedigree animal this, his lengthy +horns, rather pointed nose, and shaggy mottled coat being redeemed by +various features that tend to raise him from the mere ruck of the +disappearing country-bred. There is a trace of Hereford in the compact +form, straight back, and in the symptoms of red-brown and white that +endeavour to assert themselves from out of the confusion of his other +markings. Representing one of the earlier stages in the forward march +of the local breeds, he is of the type known to experts by the cryptic +word "useful"--a meritorious physical condition whose reward is wont +to fructify in an earlier death than that accorded to those of his +brethren who are less liberal in meat. At the present moment the +bullock is supremely content, although profoundly unconscious of the +charm of his surroundings. This is perhaps just as well, since his +ribs would undoubtedly emerge from their plump covering were he to +waste the precious moments of mastication in favour of less material +delights. As it is, he tramples carelessly on the patches of scarlet +verbena, and crushes the life from the white tobacco blossom and +the blue lupin flower with a ponderous impartiality. It is enough for +him that the warm sunlight beats down upon his back, and that the +plentiful grass rises to his cud in a ceaseless green stream. +Moreover, the few score of companions that surround him lend a +dimly-felt but comforting sense of comradeship. + +From the green of the foreground to the blue and mysterious distant +swellings of the horizon the face of the Campo has been devoid of +humanity. Near by a humble rancho, it is true, raises its diffident +walls from the earth, a lowly erection of turf and reeds, enlivened +here and there by a small auxiliary patch of corrugated iron, that +catches up the sun-rays to flash them back in brilliant defiance. But +there are no signs of life about the place beyond that afforded by a +couple of hens of worn and frayed appearance that make rapid and +spiteful passes at the dust with their beaks. Only when the sun is +falling near to the horizon does the first sign manifest itself of +more active stirrings. The figures of two horsemen have emerged from +behind a distant clump of eucalyptus that stands out like a green +island from the midst of a rolling sea. + +As the riders draw nearer it is plain that they are Gauchos--Gauchos +in a workaday mood, and consequently in attire far less picturesque +than that which lends colour to their feast days. Yet they afford +striking enough figures of men in their sombreros, kerchiefs, white +shirts, broad trousers, horse-hide boots, and giant spurs. Each part +and parcel of his horse, they come loping easily along with that +curious air of careless alertness that is characteristic of the +Gaucho. With the first warning of human approach the cattle have +raised their heads in the wary and rather resentful stare that the +presence of such visitors demands. When no doubt longer remains that +the grim-faced riders are heading directly for their own company, +doubt turns to active alarm. There is a flinging up of heels and +tails, a bunching together of scattered units, and a surging to and +fro, while the horns wave in a panic of indecision. The bullock with +the traces of Hereford markings has run to a common centre with the +rest. + +A moment later the horses are cleaving the ranks of the cattle, and +the cumbrous bodies of the horned creatures go floundering to right +and left just as they have floundered a dozen times before, with +precisely the same degree, moreover, of dread and confusion. Dodging +and twisting ponderously, they rush to and fro for a while, then flee +with a thunder of hoofs from the impact, ending up in a breathless +halt at length to turn their horns upon one another in a fury of +terror. All but the bullock with the scanty Hereford markings. He has +raced and charged with the rest, only to find on each occasion a +horse's flank or chest barring the way to safety, and a threatening +human arm raised on high that sent him without further ado to the +right-about. And now the situation is doubtless quite inexplicable, +since the rumbling of his companions' hoofs has died away, and he is +racing across the Campo quite alone save for the horseman who gallops +remorselessly on either flank--fatal attendants who are no more to be +shaken off than the hairs of his hide. A lasso circles lightly in the +air, uncoiling as it goes like an aerial snake: the noose falls with a +gentle rattle on the hurrying animal's horns. A terrific jerk shakes +him from tail to nostril. But the bullock has kept his legs, and +stands firm now, pulling with all his might against the strain that +follows, heaving from side to side in his fight with the rope that +never slackens. There is a thudding of horses' hoofs at his quarters +now. Enraged at the presence of a second foe, the bullock kicks +wildly, and the action is the signal for his doom. Another rope has +whistled through the air, and has encircled his fetlock in some +demoniacal fashion. In consequence, he gives a strenuous jump into the +air--his last, for ere his feet have touched the ground his legs are +wrenched away from under him, and the heavy body of the creature, +flung full upon its side, strikes the earth with a crash. Ere he can +move the beat of galloping horses' hoofs has drawn near, and ceased. +Two men have sprung to the ground, and are securing his legs with +ropes; then one rises to draw the blade of a huge knife from its +sheath at his belt. A minute later there is a pool of darker crimson +by the side of the verbena patches. A couple of hours later there is a +log fire upon the Campo, and the beef is being cut into long strips +from where it is spitted above the blaze, and eaten wholesale as +Gaucho appetite demands. In the meanwhile the carancho birds are +gathering thickly above, for meat is cheap upon the open pastures, and +they will be economically-minded Gauchos indeed who do not leave them +the greater share of the carcass. + + + + +CHAPTER XXII + +URUGUAY AS A PASTORAL COUNTRY + + Origin of the live stock of the country--Influence of the climate + and pastures upon the first animals introduced--Live stock census + of 1909--Importance of the breeding industry--Various + ramifications--Principal items of home consumption--Articles of + export--Quality of the first herds introduced--Type of original + sheep and horses--Goats and pigs--The introduction of a superior + class of animal--The _criollos_ and the _mestizos_--Breeds + imported--Durham, Hereford, Polled Angus, and Devon + cattle--Dutch, Norman, Flemish, and Swiss cattle--Growth of the + dairy industry--Popular breeds of sheep and horses, and + pigs--Principal countries from which the animals are + derived--Growing value of the local-bred live stock--The + manipulation of an estancia--Well-found estates--Uruguayan + agricultural societies--Work effected by these--Government + support--The Rural Association of Uruguay--Financial results of + agricultural shows--Side products--Tallow--Hams--Tanning--"La + Carolina"--A great dairy farm--The factory of Breuss and + Frey--The _saladeros_, or meat-curing establishments--Number of + animals slaughtered--Method by which the meat is + cured--_Tasajo_--Countries to which it is exported--The frozen + meat trade--"La Frigorifica Uruguaya"--Important growth of the + new industry--Shipments of frozen meat. + + +The great numbers of the live stock which to-day constitute the chief +wealth of Uruguay owe their origin to the animals introduced by the +Spanish _conquistadores_ at the beginning of the seventeenth century. + +These animals, which, of course, were drawn from the breeds that +existed in Spain at that period, found themselves surrounded by +conditions that were eminently favourable. Thus, beneath the +influence of a temperate climate and of the rich and nourishing +pastures that cover almost the entire surface of the Republic their +numbers rapidly multiplied. It is for these reasons, moreover, that +the breeding and traffic in these animals constitutes at the present +day the principal industry of the inhabitants. + +The live stock census organised by the Government in the year 1909 +gave the following results concerning the numbers of the live stock +that are now in existence in the Republic: + + Sheep 16,608,717 + Cattle 6,827,428 + Horses 561,408 + Pigs 93,923 + Mules 22,992 + Goats 20,428 + ---------- + Total 24,134,896 + +These figures might reasonably be increased, since it was necessarily +impossible for the census to deal with the complete numbers of the +animals that exist throughout the country. Thus, without danger of +exaggeration, it may be supposed that some thirty million head of live +stock actually graze upon the pastures of the land. These figures +suffice to show the enormous importance to which live stock breeding +has attained in Uruguay. + +The ramifications of this industry are naturally numerous. For home +consumption and internal commerce meat, milk, and tallow form the +principal items. For the export trade the list is considerably more +comprehensive. Live cattle, frozen, chilled, tinned, and dried meat, +beef extracts, wool, horns, hides, tallow, fat, guano, and the various +other products now make up a commerce of an annual value of thirty +millions of gold dollars, or of rather more than six million pounds +sterling. Chilled or frozen beef and mutton form the principal items +of this export trade, after which hides and extract of meat rank next +in importance. + +The main breeds of animals introduced by the Spaniards at the time of +the conquest, although they served their purpose well enough at the +time, were by no means of the type which the exigencies of modern +times require. The cattle of former years were wanting in many +respects. They were wont to possess, for example, a superabundance of +bone, were badly built, and were notably backward in development. The +sheep were possessed of the same faults, and, in addition, were wont +to yield inferior wool. + +The horses, on the other hand, although of light build and lacking +somewhat in shape, have proved themselves particularly well suited to +the country. Hardy and of great power of endurance, they have adapted +themselves completely to the natural conditions of the land. From this +stock a breed has sprung that fulfils admirably the equine duties of +the Campo. The tendency of these horses has been to improve and to +increase in size. Both the pigs and goats that were imported from +Spain were of an inferior order, although the latter showed favourable +results in the yielding of milk. + +By the aid of these breeds alone it is certain that the live stock of +Uruguay could never have attained to that degree of excellence in +quality such as it can legitimately boast to-day. From these, for +example, cattle could never have been produced of the class that the +freezing works now demand, nor the valuable wool that is +characteristic of the day. The beginning of this later progress dates +from the middle of the last century. It was then that the more +progressive breeders became aware of the limitations of the _criollo_ +races, as are termed the breeds imported from Spain that have +flourished and taken root in the land. To this end these were crossed +with others of a superior type, and thus the much-improved _mestizos_, +or cross-breds, were obtained. These now preponderate in many regions +of the Republic, in which, by the way, no true criollo animals now +remain. + +In order to effect this improvement in the cattle various English +breeds have been introduced. Of these the two most important are the +Durham and the Hereford, both of which are excellently adapted for the +production of meat. By the crossing of these with the criollo a +mestizo steer is obtained, capable of turning the scale at six hundred +kilos and more, that provides excellent meat whether for the purposes +of live shipment, freezing, salting, or extract. In addition to these +more important breeds others have been introduced, such as the Devon, +Polled Angus, and a few further varieties--all these, however, in a +lesser degree. + +It will be evident from this that the improvements in stock have been +effected chiefly with the view of increasing the quantity of meat +produced. Nevertheless, there are others that have been imported for +dairy purposes alone. The chief of these are the Dutch, Norman, +Flemish, and Swiss. It must be remarked that the popularity of these +is rapidly growing, on account of the progress and extension of the +dairy industry. + +So far as sheep are concerned, the breeds that have been found most +suitable for the country are the Merino, Lincoln, Shropshire, +Hampshire, Romney Marsh, and Southdown. The Merino race amidst its new +surroundings provides an especially fine class of wool that is +appreciated throughout the world; from the crossing of the Merino with +the English breeds animals are obtained that provide the best meat +for the purposes of export, and those types of wool that are most in +demand for general commercial purposes. + +The horses principally employed for saddle purposes and for light +draught are the thorough-bred, Yorkshire, Anglo-Norman, Irish, and +Russian, while for heavy draught the Percheron, Clydesdale, and Shire +strains are the most popular. + +The improvement in pig-breeding has been effected by the introduction +of several English species, such as the Yorkshire and Berkshire, the +French animals of the kind being rarely employed. + +It is by means of the crossing with all these above-mentioned breeds +that the general live stock of the country has been raised in degree. +The result has been distinctly favourable, since the healthy climate +and the pastures are eminently suitable for the finest strains as well +as for the cross-breds. + +The annual importation into Uruguay of sires, bulls, and of the +remaining stock is now large. The countries whence they are derived +are England and other European lands, Australia, Argentina, and North +America. Amongst these many valuable animals are to be met with. Thus +recently two champion rams have been imported from Australia, various +champion bulls and rams from England, while from France came the noted +Durham bull "Tamarin." + +[Illustration: CHALÊT AT COLONIA SUIZA.] + +[Illustration: THE VINTAGE: ESTANCIA SAN JUAN. +To face p. 258.] + +Uruguay, however, does not now depend entirely upon importations from +abroad for its pedigree stock. It already possesses a number of +_cabañas_, or breeding establishments, from which emerge cattle and +sheep of a grade sufficiently high to meet with success in the +agricultural shows of other countries. These are to be distinguished +from the estancias, the farms of larger area upon which the general +live stock of commerce thrives. + +The ordinary estancia consists of a number of paddocks, separated the +one from the other by wire fences, of the natural pastures that abound +in Uruguay. The advance that has been effected in these great +enterprises is on a par with that of the rest. They are as a rule well +provided with sheds for the housing of the pedigree stock and with +plantations of trees for the shelter of the less valuable type of +animal, as well as with cattle-dips, water deposits, and stockyards, +and, in fact, with every installation that is requisite for the +purpose of the industry. + +In every department of the Republic societies have been founded in +order to encourage scientific breeding, and to organise the +agricultural shows that are now held throughout the country. These +agricultural meetings have served a most useful purpose in fostering +an interest in breeding and in the various other branches of the +general national industries. This fact has been recognised by the +Government, which, in consequence, has done its utmost to stimulate +the holding of such functions. It has thus during the past few years +spent an annual sum of fifty thousand dollars in the subsidising of +these events, an outlay that has undoubtedly borne good fruit. In +providing these subsidies it is stipulated that at least a third part +of the sum provided shall be expended in cash prizes, and that the +chief attention in this respect shall be devoted to those particular +branches of industry that appear in a less advanced condition than the +rest, and that, therefore, are the most in need of encouragement. + +Many of these agricultural societies possess extensive grounds of +their own in the near neighbourhood of the provincial capital. In +these places permanent buildings are frequently to be met with that +are employed for the annual shows. These usually owe their +construction to private enterprise, assisted by the Government. In +Montevideo, too, there is a ground specially set apart for this +purpose. Here the Rural Association of Uruguay holds the great annual +championship meeting, and the Government has just allotted the sum of +a hundred thousand dollars for the purpose of improving the spot, and +for the introduction of the very latest innovations. These +agricultural shows have proved highly successful in facilitating the +actual commercial transactions having reference to live stock of all +descriptions. Thus during the past few years the principal meetings +alone have been responsible for an annual sale of over half a million +dollars' worth of animals. + +Although, as has been explained, numerous products of the pastoral +industry are exported in their natural state, there are others which +require special treatment and preparation in their country of origin +ere shipment, and which are daily gaining in importance. The most +important institutions that deal with these are the meat-curing +factories, the freezing works, and the establishments for preserving +meat and for extracting its essence. These chief industries we will +deal with at some length later, enumerating first of all some of the +side products of lesser importance, such as the manufacture of tallow +and of hams, and that of tanning. + +Another industry that bids fair to be of supreme importance in the +future is that of dairy-farming. At the present time this is worked on +a comparatively modest scale, since the great majority of farms are +content with the breeding and selling of the cattle. Nevertheless, +there are several important establishments that produce milk, butter, +and cheese for the purposes of both home consumption and of export. + +The chief amongst these establishments is that of La Carolina, +belonging to Don Francisco Fontana, which occupies an area of eight +thousand hectares in the department of Rocha. No less than five +thousand milch cows graze on this property, which is provided with +steam-driven machinery of the most modern type. In the department of +Colonia, too, exists the colony of Swiss, who devote themselves +especially to this particular branch of industry. The principal +factory here is that of Breuss and Frey, which deals with thirty +thousand litres of milk daily, and can turn out twenty-four thousand +kilos of butter in a month. This factory likewise contains the most +up-to-date machinery, and is provided with freezing and sterilising +apparatus. This concern exports cheese as well as butter. + +These few facts will give an idea of the point to which the +dairy-farming industry in Uruguay may develop in the near future, +since there exist several millions of cows of a type eminently +suitable for the purpose. + +In the Republic there are actually twenty saladeros in existence, of +which thirteen are situated in Montevideo, seven on the banks of the +River Uruguay, and one at Paso de los Toros, in the interior of the +country. + +The number of the animals slaughtered at these saladeros will give an +idea of the importance of the industry. During the years 1904 and 1908 +the total amounted to no less than 2,763,855 head of cattle, thus +making the average for the year over half a million head. During these +five years 223,872,000 kilos of _tasajo_, or dried meat, were +prepared, which represent a yearly average of forty-five million +kilos. The average yield of the steers was ninety kilos of tasajo, +that of the cows sixty kilos. + +The manner in which this dried meat is prepared in the saladeros is +fairly simple. After the cattle have been slaughtered and the +veterinary examination has proved the absence of any taint or disease +the bones are separated from the meat, which is then shaped into +various portions known respectively as _mantas_ and _postas_. Once +dried, these are placed in brine-pans, and piled up, well covered with +salt. According to the state of the weather and the condition to which +the meat is required to attain, it is placed in special vessels in the +sun for a period varying between four and six days, until it is +perfectly dry and ready to be baled. + +As will be seen from this, salt and sun heat are the two principal +agents that enter into the manufacture of tasajo, two powerful agents +that, it is claimed, perform their task in the simplest and most +hygienic fashion possible. The slaughtering season in the saladeros +generally begins in the month of November, and is continued until +January of the following year. + +Tasajo, when its manufacture is completed, is classified into four +grades, in accordance with the fatter or leaner propensities of the +meat. The former kinds are exported principally to the markets of +Brazil, while the latter are for the most part destined for +consumption in Cuba. Beyond these, however, there are various other +fields in which tasajo plays a popular part. It is, for instance, sent +in fairly large quantities to the Portuguese colonies, to Puerto Rico, +and to Spain and Portugal themselves, as well as to numerous less +important places whose inhabitants have learned to appreciate this +particular form of dried meat. The product contains certain advantages +in that its treatment is simple throughout. Thus, when once in the +hands of its actual consumers, the salt has merely to be dissolved +from the meat in order to render it in a condition prepared for the +oven. + +It is several years now since Uruguay has commenced to export frozen +meat. Six years ago an important freezing establishment, La +Frigorifica Uruguaya, was founded in the department of Montevideo on +the bank of the River Plate. The place occupies a large extent of +ground, and is capable of slaughtering daily two hundred head of +cattle and two thousand sheep. This establishment is fitted up with +the most recent inventions that have been brought to bear on the +freezing process. The frozen beef is classified into three qualities, +according to type and weight, and is packed in quarters in a double +covering that completely preserves it from the danger of contact with +other substances. The carcasses of the sheep, following the usual +custom, are shipped entire, and covered in the same way. + +The Frigorifica Uruguaya began operations in 1905. The rapid increase +in the extent of its shipments may be judged from the following +figures. Thus, in 1905, the year of its inception, the establishment +exported two thousand tons of frozen meat; in 1906 the shipments had +increased to four thousand tons, whereas in 1907 the total amounted to +seven thousand and in 1908 to nine thousand tons. This increase has +continued unchecked during the past couple of years, and the shipments +for 1910 are estimated to have amounted to no less than twelve +thousand tons. The machinery has now been added to, and the result +will certainly go to swell these figures considerably more in the near +future. + +The benefit that this concern confers on the pastoral industry is of +course very great. Not only does it increase the facilities for sale +of the cattle, but its existence tends in addition towards the +improvement of breed in general, since only the animals of a superior +class are suitable for the purpose it serves. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII + +DEPARTMENTS, CLIMATE, AND NATURAL HISTORY + + The nineteen divisions of Uruguay--Their populations, areas, + towns, and industries--Canelones--Florida--San + José--Durazno--Flores--Colonia--Soriano--Rio + Negro--Paysandú--Salto--Artigas--Tacuarembó--Rivera--Cerro + Largo--Treinta y + Tres--Rocha--Maldonado--Montevideo--Climate--Favourable + conditions throughout the Republic--The Atlantic coast line--The + summer season--Pleasantly tempered heat--A land of cool + breezes--Its attractions as a pleasure resort--Climates of the + interior and of the north--Draught--Locusts--Comparative immunity + of a pastoral country--Uruguayan fauna--Some common creatures of + the Campo--Bird life--The ostrich--Its value as a commercial + asset--The trade in ostrich feathers--Measures for the protection + of the birds. + + +A list of the nineteen departments of Uruguay with their more salient +features will go far towards explaining in detail the various areas, +populations, and resources of the Republic. + +Canelones, situated in the midst of the departments of Montevideo, San +José, Florida, Minas, and Maldonado, with a coast-line upon the River +Plate, possesses an area of 4,751 square kilometres. It is one of the +most populous departments, containing over ninety thousand +inhabitants. Three railway-lines connect the district with Montevideo. +Its chief towns are Guadeloupe, Santa Lucia, Pando, and Las Piedras, +each of which contains some eight thousand inhabitants. Canelones is +mainly devoted to pasture, agriculture, viticulture, and general +fruit-growing. + +Florida is situated directly to the north of Canelones. Its area is +12,107 square kilometres and its population fifty thousand. Two lines +of railway connect it with Montevideo. The chief town is Florida, the +capital of the department, a city of ten thousand inhabitants. Until +recent years Florida has been almost altogether given up to the +pastoral industry; but of late agriculture has made great strides. + +San José is situated to the west of Canelones, and likewise possesses +a coast-line on the River Plate. Its area is 6,932 square kilometres; +population about fifty thousand. The department is connected with +Montevideo by two railway lines. The principal town is San José de +Mayo, with a population of just over twelve thousand inhabitants. +Rather more than half the department is made up of rich pasture-lands, +although the agricultural districts are increasing. In addition to +fruit-growing and viticulture, the timber industry of San José is +important, consisting of wood both for building purposes and for fuel. + +Durazno, to the north of Florida, is the most central department in +the Republic, and contains a population of fifty thousand inhabitants. +It is connected by a railway line with Montevideo, and its chief city +is San Pedro del Durazno, whose inhabitants number eleven thousand. +The department is essentially a pastoral one, and is especially well +watered, being served by the Rivers Negro and Yi, and by countless +tributaries and smaller streams. + +Flores, situated to the west of Durazno, contains twenty thousand +inhabitants. Almost half this number are residents of the capital, +Trinidad. Flores is not yet served by a railway, and it is probably +for this reason that so many of its districts, admirably adapted for +agriculture, still remain essentially pastoral. In Flores is a very +curious grotto, sustained by natural arches and columns, that has +been the source of much geological controversy. + +Colonia is the richest and most important department of all in the +Republic. Lying to the west of San José, it has the advantage not only +of railways but of a lengthy coast-line on the River Plate. +Agriculture here has attained to a high pitch of development, and +dairy-farming constitutes one of the most important industries of the +department. Fruit culture and viticulture are in an equally advanced +condition, while the quarrying of building stone is now being +energetically carried on. In Colonia is situated the Swiss Colony, the +inhabitants of which apply themselves to agriculture and +dairy-farming. + +Soriano lies to the north of Colonia, and its western boundary is +likewise washed by the waters of the river--no longer the River Plate, +but the Uruguay. The area of the department is 9,223 kilometres, and +its population rather exceeds forty thousand. Soriano is connected by +railway with Montevideo. Its chief town is Mercedes, the population of +which amounts to ten thousand inhabitants. The principal industry is +pasture, although agriculture and general fruit-growing is carried on +to a certain extent. Timber, charcoal-burning, and stone-quarrying are +responsible for a certain amount of labour. A fair quantity of +minerals such as iron, silver, copper, and lead is met with here. + +Rio Negro is situated on the Uruguay River to the north of Colonia. +Its area is 8,470 kilometres and its population twenty thousand. The +department is now in the act of being linked up with the main centres +by railway. Its capital is Fray Bentos, a town celebrated as one of +the chief centres of the manufacture of meat extract, with a +population of seven thousand inhabitants. Rio Negro is essentially a +pastoral province, and is the chief centre in the Republic for the +breeding of live stock, which attains here to an exceptionally high +grade of quality. Rio Negro is one of the most favourably situated +departments as regards water communication. In addition to its 120 +kilometres of coast-line on the Uruguay it possesses 200 kilometres of +river frontage on the River Negro. + +Paysandú bounds Rio Negro to the north, with a lengthy frontage on the +Uruguay River. Its population is forty thousand, of which twenty-one +thousand inhabit the capital, Paysandú, the second town of importance +in Uruguay. The area of the department is about 14,000 square +kilometres. Paysandú is connected by railway both with the capital and +the northern centres. Its industries are chiefly pastoral and +agricultural, and a number of meat-curing establishments exist. + +Salto is the neighbouring province to the north upon the River +Uruguay. It contains an area of 12,500 square kilometres and a +population of rather over fifty thousand. Its chief town is Salto, +that in actual size is said to exceed that of Paysandú, numbering as +it does rather over twenty-two thousand inhabitants. The department is +served by railway. The principal industry is that of pasture. The +department, moreover, is one of the chief wine-producing centres of +the Republic. Salto is rich in minerals, and quartz and precious +stones are met with in fair quantities here. + +Artigas is the northernmost province on the Uruguay as well as in the +Republic. Its area is 11,300 square kilometres, its population thirty +thousand. Its capital is San Eugenio, situated on the Brazilian +frontier, a town of nine thousand inhabitants. The railway runs as far +as this point, and thus serves the length of the province. Artigas +contains many districts notable for minerals, and is well endowed +with precious stones such as the amethyst and topaz. Owing to the +northern situation of the department grazing and agriculture are +carried on to a lesser extent than in the majority of others. The +variety of timber is important here, hard woods being found as well as +the softer varieties. + +Tacuarembó is situated in the northern centre of the Republic. That is +to say, its frontiers extend from the centre to within a comparatively +short distance of the Brazilian frontier. The department is the +largest in Uruguay, its territories extending over more than +twenty-one thousand square kilometres. Its population, however, does +not exceed fifty thousand, and it is thus the most sparsely inhabited +department of the country. It is served by a railway. The principal +town is San Fructuoso, which possesses eight thousand inhabitants. +Tacuarembó is for the most part devoted to agriculture. Tobacco +flourishes in the province, and recent experimental rice plantations +have met with a fair amount of success. Gold and manganese are met +with in various districts. + +Rivera is bounded on the south by Tacuarembó and on the north by +Brazil. It is a fairly extensive department containing comparatively +few inhabitants, but the precise figures of neither the one nor the +other seem available. The chief town of the department is Rivera, a +city situated on the Brazilian frontier that has a population of ten +thousand. The industries of Rivera are similar to those of Tacuarembó. +The gold mines here are of considerable importance, and are in active +working. The department is served by railway, Rivera being the +northernmost Uruguayan point of the line from Montevideo. + +Cerro Largo is situated on the south-east of Rivera, and is bounded on +the north-east by Brazil. The area of the department is nearly fifteen +thousand square kilometres; population about forty-five thousand. Its +capital is Melo, a town of fourteen thousand inhabitants. It is the +terminus of a recently constructed railway-line, the entry of which +into the country has had the effect of benefiting local commerce to a +considerable extent. The principal industry is pastoral, but, in +addition, a certain amount of agriculture is carried on. + +Treinta y Tres, which lies to the south of Cerro Largo, possesses an +area of 9,550 square kilometres and a population of thirty thousand. +It has not the advantage of being served by any railway, although this +will shortly occur. The principal town is Treinta y Tres, whose +inhabitants are about eight thousand in number. Up to the present time +the pastoral industry predominates here, that of agriculture being +scarcely known. It is anticipated, however, that the coming +development of the province will alter this condition of affairs. The +department is well wooded, and the timber industry here is an +important one. Treinta y Tres is bounded on the east wholly by the +great Lake of Merin, upon the further shore of which lies Brazil. + +Rocha, to the south of Treinta y Tres, is also bounded for the great +part of its eastern frontier by Lake Merin, although a small portion +of Brazil and a long stretch of Atlantic Ocean complete its boundaries +in this direction. The department contains an area of eleven thousand +kilometres and a population of forty thousand. It is not traversed by +a railroad. Its chief industry is grazing; but in some districts +viticulture is in an advanced state. The seal fishery affords an +important revenue, and the mineral products of the country are +considerable. Copper, gypsum, alabaster, marble, and jasper obtain in +considerable quantities. The chief town is Rocha, a centre of +unimportant size. + +Maldonado is situated on the Atlantic Ocean, to the west of Rocha. +Its extent and population are not officially given. In a short while +the department will be adequately served by the railway, which has +already entered its frontiers. Like the great majority of the +departments it is principally devoted to pasture. A certain amount of +agriculture and wine-growing obtains, and in the southern districts +much timber has been planted. The seal fishery in the neighbourhood of +Lobos Island, off its coast, is important. The capital of the +department is Maldonado, a small coastal town. + +Minas, to the north of Maldonado, has a population of about sixty +thousand. In addition to its pasture and agriculture, the department +is exceptionally well endowed with minerals. The capital is Minas, a +city of fourteen thousand inhabitants, that forms the terminus of the +railway-line from Montevideo. + +The department of Montevideo constitutes the small extent of territory +in the neighbourhood of the capital itself, a considerable portion of +which is taken up by the outer suburbs of the main town. The country +in the neighbourhood here is very fertile and highly cultivated. + +There is probably no climate in South America that offers greater +attractions than that of Uruguay. Throughout the Republic the +conditions are favourable; but it stands to reason that those which +obtain upon the coast-line facing the Atlantic are the most ideal of +all. The climate in these neighbourhoods is essentially temperate, and +may be likened to that of the Riviera of France, without, however, +suffering from the occasional winter frosts and intense summer heat +that characterise this latter seaboard. Nevertheless the winter +temperature of the Uruguayan littoral when a southern wind is blowing +can be quite as keen as is compatible with comfort. + +As is the case in the majority of temperate countries, there is no +accurately defined rainy or dry reason, although the rains are wont to +be far more abundant in the winter months. The heat of summer in the +south-eastern provinces is very seldom oppressive; indeed, one of the +most striking characteristics of the warm season is the continuance of +the refreshing and bracing airs that temper the heat, and that render +midsummer itself as enjoyable as the delightful spring months. The +climate of Buenos Aires is distinctly pleasant, but, so far as the +summer season is concerned, the difference between that of the +capitals of Argentina and Uruguay is curiously marked, when it is +taken into consideration that not more than 120 miles of water +separate the two. The exceptionally pleasant conditions that prevail +on this portion of the Oriental coast are acknowledged by none more +readily than by the Argentines, who flock there in great numbers for +the purposes of bathing and general climatic refreshment in January +and February. + +The wind-swept uplands of the interior are favoured in a similar +degree when compared with the districts of the other countries in +corresponding latitudes. In the northern provinces upon the Brazilian +frontier the increase in the normal temperature is, of course, very +distinctly perceptible, and for the first time the vegetation gives +undoubted evidence of an approach to the tropics. + +[Illustration: STREAM ON THE SAN JUAN ESTANCIA. +To face p. 272.] + +In consequence of this temperate climate that it enjoys the natural +plagues of the Banda Oriental are few. Drought, although it occurs +from time to time, cannot be looked upon as a genuinely characteristic +chastening influence of the land. The visitations of locusts +constitute a more serious matter. These, as in the case of the +neighbouring countries, occur in cycles, and the periods marked by the +presence of the small winged creatures with the insatiable +appetites are unpleasant enough for the agriculturalist. Owing to the +great pastoral predominance in Uruguay, however, the country in +general suffers far less than one more devoted to the production of +cereals. With the spread of agriculture that is now in progress the +question is likely to become more serious. But by the time that a +reasonable proportion of the Republic has been brought under +cultivation it is possible that one of the many plans that are +continually being brought forward for the extermination of the locust +curse may have taken effect. Nevertheless, too much reliance is not to +be placed upon this very desirable consummation. + +The great majority of Uruguayan fauna are identical with those of the +River Plate countries in general. The animals most commonly to be met +with in a journey through the Campo are the carpincho, a large, +tailless water-hog; the nutria, a creature that closely resembles a +gigantic rat, although its hind feet are webbed; the skunk, the +opossum, the iguana, and the armadillo. + +In the region of bird life the larger varieties most in evidence are +the carancho, a cross between a vulture and a hawk; the chimangu, a +smaller carrion-hawk, and a kestrel-hawk with brown body and bright +grey wings. Far rarer are the large grey eagle, and the cuerbo, or +black vulture. Heron of various species are very plentiful. + +Of the smaller birds the teru-tero, a variety of crested plover, is by +far the most numerous, although certain districts exist in which the +duck and teal run them a close second in point of numbers, while +partridge and martineta are to be met with in abundance in others. + +Amongst the more gorgeous winged specimens of the country are the +flamingo, parrot, woodpecker, humming-bird, and the little black +pecho colorado with its brilliant scarlet breast. Both the scissor +bird and the _viuda_ (window) bird are aptly named. The former +rejoices in a very long, divided tail; the latter is of a pure white +colour with a well-defined black border to its wings. The "bien te +veo, bicho feo" is a mocking-bird whose call closely resembles the +phrase by which it is known, and the ornero, or oven bird, is so +called from the curious structure of its mud nest. The small owl, too, +is a notable inhabitant of the Campo, as are the dainty miniature +doves. But to enter fully into the animal life of the Banda Oriental +would require a book in itself; therefore it is necessary to be +content with a list of the varieties most commonly to be met with. + +In dealing with the category of birds I have purposely left the +ostrich to the last, as that particular biped stands, as it were, in a +class of its own. The _Rhea Americana_ represents a commercial asset +of no little importance, and the grey companies of these rather +awkward-looking creatures are carefully watched now as they strut +solemnly to and fro over the pastures. The feathers, it is true, +cannot as a rule rival in quality those of the African bird, although +occasionally some very fine specimens are to be met with. Indeed, it +is said that the large, specially selected feathers are sold at prices +that range from fifteen dollars to twenty-five dollars the kilo. The +great majority of the coarser feathers are of little value, and are +employed for dusting brushes and such similar purposes. + +That the commerce in these ostrich feathers is of no little importance +becomes evident when the shipments of the article are considered. In +1908 the exports of these to France, the United States, Spain, and +Germany amounted to fifteen thousand kilos, while in 1909 they had +increased to twenty-five thousand kilos. The numbers of the ostriches +themselves, however, have tended to decrease of late years, and it is +estimated that at the present time there are not more than fifty +thousand in the country. Realising the danger incurred by this +diminution, the Government is now taking measures towards the +protection of these very useful birds, and there is no doubt that +judicious legislation will cause their number to increase once more. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV + +INDUSTRIES AND NATURAL WEALTH + + England's financial stake in Uruguay--British capital invested in + the Republic--Its monetary importance compared with that of other + South American nations--General commercial development of the + country--A satisfactory outlook--Progress of grazing and + agriculture--Marked increase in commerce--Uruguay's + exports--Cured meats and frozen carcasses--Diminution of the + former trade; increase of the latter--Reasons for the + transformation of industry--An outcome of Brazilian + protection--The breeding of fine cattle for the European + markets--Present situation of the world's meat market--The + British Isles as importers of meat--The position in the United + States--A change from the rôle of exporter to that of + importer--The increase in River Plate shipments--Closeness of + touch between South American and English markets--Probable + admission of foreign meat into European countries--Intervention + of the United States Beef Trust--Purchase of + Frigorificos--Possible effects of a monopoly upon the + producers--South American views on the subject--Favourable + general position of the River Plate--The balance of power in + beef--Extract of meat--The Lemco and Oxo Company--Ramifications + of the enterprise--The town of Fray + Bentos--Agriculture--Wheat--Maize--Barley. + + +The financial interest that England possesses in Uruguay is not +generally realised. As a matter of fact, the amount of British capital +invested in the Banda Oriental amounts to over forty-four millions of +pounds sterling, and there are thus only two nations, Argentina and +Brazil, that possess a greater share of the total of those funds +invested in the South American continent. To the ears of the majority, +it must be admitted, the names of Chile, Peru, Venezuela, and +Colombia sound more familiar than that of the country with which we +are at present dealing. Yet in the matter of these investments Chile +alone can approach the status of the small Republic on the River +Plate, and, indeed, falls behind it only to the extent of a few +hundred thousand pounds. Peru, however, is interested to scarcely more +than one-half of the extent, while Venezuela, the next in order, +cannot lay claim to one-sixth of the amount. + +A comparison such as this will show the real financial importance that +Uruguay represents to England, and, such being admitted, the condition +of its commerce must be a matter of proportionate interest. To deal +first of all with the general commercial development of the country, +the outlook is undoubtedly satisfactory. In order to obtain the +broadest possible survey of the situation it is necessary to lump +together the national imports and exports. Taking a recent number of +five-yearly periods, the results obtained are: + + $ + 1862-68 109,886,156 + 1869-73 158,468,043 + 1874-78 148,443,857 + 1879-83 195,757,038 + 1884-88 234,618,354 + 1889-93 261,877,934 + 1894-98 274,137,052 + 1899-1903 286,580,824 + 1904-08 338,009,777 + +The dollar quoted in this table--and wherever this unit is employed +throughout the book--is, it should be explained, the Uruguayan gold +dollar, the rough value of which may be estimated at four shillings +and twopence. + +This steady development of commerce is not a little striking in view +of the fact that up to the present only a very small percentage of +the resources of the country have been brought to bear. It is true +that the chief national wealth is likely, in the future as in the +past, to remain centred in the rich natural grazing lands. But the +progress of agriculture is now such that this branch of industry +cannot well fail in the course of a few years to rank as a moderate +second in importance to the business of grazing. Moreover, the +development of this latter itself is only now being proceeded with in +a manner worthy of the great resources that exist. The marked increase +in the general commerce that is evident between the years 1899 and +1908 is due to a very large extent to the introduction of modern +methods into the estancia life of the country. + +It is necessary now to turn to a more detailed consideration of +Uruguay's exports. The chief of these, as has already been explained, +is represented by live stock, and by meat in various forms. Of recent +years these particular branches of industry have been undergoing a +certain amount of transformation. For generations, indeed for +centuries, Uruguay has represented the chief source of Brazil's supply +of animal food. Not only were the herds of cattle and flocks of sheep +driven northwards with ceaseless regularity across the frontier, but +the millions of bales of dried beef flowed along the same channels +too. + +Recent events have caused a certain diminution in this commerce. With +the course of time Brazil has become more and more desirous of seeing +her own southern and comparatively temperate provinces more liberally +stocked with cattle. With the idea of fostering the local grazing +industry, the northern republic has increased the duties upon both +imported cattle and meat. The immediate result naturally proved +unfavourable both to Uruguayan graziers and saladero owners. In the +end, however, the outcome has proved beneficial rather than +detrimental to the landowner. As may be imagined, for the manufacture +of tasajo a high grade of cattle is not necessarily required. The +secret of the actual quality of the meat is to a great extent lost in +the dried and hardened bales of the preserve. Moreover, in order to +suit the taste of local consumption in Brazil a far slenderer class of +animal was necessary than the fattened type that the colder climates +demand. + +Thus, when it became necessary to make up for the deficit in these +neighbourly exports by the opening up of fresh markets and by catering +for the overseas demand, one of the first means to be taken in hand +towards attaining this end was a yet more close attention to the +question of a quality of meat suitable for European consumption. There +were many who foresaw numerous difficulties in attaining to this +standard, principally owing to the comparative absence of alfalfa in +the land. It is true that this fattening lucerne thrives only in +limited areas of Uruguay. But to what extent the excellent pastures of +the land have made up for this disadvantage is plain enough from the +amount of frozen carcasses now shipped to Europe. The situation as +regards the export of pastoral products has, in consequence, become +improved. Less dried meat and fewer live cattle are sent to Brazil, +but the deficiency is more than counterbalanced by shipments of a +superior order to the new markets now established in Europe. + +The present situation of the meat markets throughout the world has +reached so vitally important a stage that a few comments on the +position cannot well come amiss in view of its inevitable direct +influences upon Uruguay, and the similar stock-raising countries. +Naturally enough, the primary centres of interest are to be found in +the United States, and in its Beef Trust. Ere coming to this point, +however, it would be as well to review the general situation. + +Until the present moment the British Isles have been the chief +importers of frozen and chilled meat from both North and South +America. The demand has, naturally enough, shown an annual increase +corresponding with the growth of the population. A similar state of +affairs has, of course, existed in North America, but here the +increase of the inhabitants has been so rapid and so overwhelming that +the breeding of cattle has been entirely unable to progress in the +same ratio. The result of this is that the United States can now +produce only a comparatively insignificant surplus over and above the +quantity of animal food that is required for consumption by its own +inhabitants. Of late, therefore, the shipments of North American beef +to the British Isles have decreased with a rather startling celerity, +and there can be no question that in the near future the trade will +have ceased altogether. Exactly when this will occur--whether in two +years or half a dozen--it is impossible for even the experts to tell, +since so many elements of the unexpected enter into the question. But +that it will come about is certain, and it is, of course, equally +inevitable that the conclusion of the period of exportation will mark +the beginning of another era when it will be necessary for the United +States to import her animal food supply from countries outside her own +frontiers. + +[Illustration: THE CATTLE DIP.] + +[Illustration: DRYING JERKED MEAT. +To face p. 280.] + +In the meanwhile Argentina has stepped into the gap that North America +had of necessity left vacant, and the establishment of its frigorifico +will now enable Uruguay to take a hand in this business of shipping. +The River Plate countries are undoubtedly in a position to cope with +the situation for an indefinite period of years, although its effects +are already evident to a certain extent upon the local markets of +Argentina. In the latter country I have been present at the +stockyards in November when the herds of cattle that had arrived from +the Campo were being sold. The faces of those estancieros who were +present were beaming, for prices were ruling quite exceptionally high. +The reason lay in the demand for the London Christmas beef that had +sent its stimulus all this distance--an emphatic proof of the +closeness of touch that now obtains between the River Plate and the +British Isles. + +Were the position to begin and end at this point it would be simple +enough. Some developments, however, have occurred of late that render +the outlook for the future far more complicated. There seems very +little doubt that the time will come when England will no longer enjoy +the practical monopoly of imported beef. The desire for the admission +of this commodity in several of the great European countries is +becoming more and more accentuated, and it is highly probable that the +agitation that is now being carried on in favour of this new departure +will eventually result in the breaking down of the barriers that at +present oppose the trade. It is, of course, impossible to estimate the +full extent of the consequences of a move of the kind, but that it +must cause a rise in the price of beef in the English markets is +inevitable. + +In the face of these possibilities the prospects of the River Plate +countries are, of course, more favourable than ever before. With the +markets of Europe open to their cattle and meat, the added stimulus to +the industries of these countries cannot fail to be enormous. But here +again an element has come into being that, although it will have no +effect upon the industry, taken as a whole, must necessarily threaten +many of the interests involved. The Beef Trust of the United States +has been keenly alive to the great pastoral developments in South +America. Accurately foreseeing that the importance of the present day +is merely a prelude to what is to come, the great corporation has now +descended wholesale upon the shores of the River Plate, has already +bought up a number of frigorificos, and it will be through no want of +endeavour of its own if it does not sooner or later acquire the +remainder. + +I have no desire to tilt against the Beef Trust, which is very +probably an excellent institution, but one that, since it openly lays +no claim to a purely philanthropical policy, cannot be expected to +safeguard the welfare of concerns that do not tend towards its own +advancement. Should this corporation, therefore, attain its present +object of securing the frigorificos, and the consequent monopoly of +the purchase of cattle for export, the actual producers of the live +stock will find themselves face to face with a situation of which they +have previously had no experience. It is quite possible that it will +suit the corporation to buy the cattle at prices similar to those +which now obtain--or it may not, since it is well known that the +estanciero continued to exist in a more or less affluent fashion when +his cattle sold at lower rates than is the case at the present day. + +In any case the matter seems to be taken fairly lightly in the South +American countries most concerned. The prevalent idea is that, should +the danger be realised, it is easy to legislate against trusts--a +theory that may, or may not, be correct. Putting aside for the moment, +however, these possible complications, it will be clear that the +position of the River Plate countries as regards the shipment of their +beef is quite exceptionally favourable. So much so, indeed, that it is +not without the bounds of possibility that the spread of agriculture +may at some future period receive a check in favour of the purely +pastoral industry. For the wheat and maize-producing lands are +considerably in excess of those that raise cattle in sufficient +quantities for serious export. Fresh areas suitable for wheat-growing, +moreover, are continually being lit upon, whereas the discovery of new +grazing lands is obviously more limited. It is true that our own +colony of Rhodesia promises to take an important share in the +cattle-breeding industry--a promise the fulfilment of which may be +anticipated with confidence. With this exception, the countries of the +River Plate will undoubtedly hold the balance of power in all matters +appertaining to that very, very important article beef. + +In addition to that of the carcasses themselves, another very +important product of Uruguay is the extract of meat produced by the +Liebig (Lemco) Company. Fray Bentos was the original home of this +industry, with which the place has been associated since 1865. Of late +years the Lemco interests have spread far beyond their original +frontiers, for of the total of nearly five million acres at present +owned by the concern many hundred thousands of acres exist in +Argentina, Paraguay, and even in Rhodesia. As a matter of fact, the +working power of the recently constructed factory at Colón in Entre +Rios, upon the Argentine bank of the river, exceeds that of Fray +Bentos. Nevertheless, the importance of this latter place will be +evident enough when it is explained that in 1910 over one hundred and +seventy-nine thousand head of cattle were slaughtered there in order +to provide the necessary extract of meat. + +The Lemco town of Fray Bentos is by way of being a model specimen of +its kind. The establishments of the managers here, and the dwellings +of the workmen are each admirable of their kind, and very replete with +the comforts and luxuries that appertain to the various walks of +life. The streets, moreover, are broad and well-engineered, and the +schools and various institutions denote a liberal spirit on the part +of the directors of the concern. + +To turn from the meat industry to that of agriculture, we come, +naturally enough, to a far less imposing condition of affairs, but +one, nevertheless, that is increasing in importance each year. The +chief cereal of Uruguay is wheat. At the present moment nearly three +hundred thousand hectares have been devoted to the raising of this +crop. Although the discovery of fresh lands suitable to the production +of wheat has caused this particular area to increase, the main centres +in cultivation up to the present have been rather strictly localised. +The provinces that contain the really important wheat districts are +those of San José, Colonia, and Canelones. The lines of railway, +however, that have recently been constructed to the east and west of +the Republic are opening up much land that is undoubtedly admirably +suited for the production of this cereal. Wheat, it may be explained, +is a crop the nature of which renders it more immune than the majority +from the attacks of the voracious locust. By the time the +all-devouring insect is wont to make its appearance, the ears of the +wheat are as a rule hardened to a sufficient extent to render them +unpalatable. Wheat therefore, frequently escapes, wholly or in part, +where the maize crop suffers severely from the ravages of the locusts. + +The production of maize is only very slightly less than that of wheat. +The yield of this commodity in 1909 amounted roughly to one hundred +and seventy thousand tons, while that of wheat fell just below two +hundred and thirty-four thousand tons. Generally speaking, it may be +said that the districts where wheat is grown are suitable for the +cultivation of maize, and thus in Uruguay the two are wont to +flourish to a large extent side by side. It is worthy of note, +however, that whereas the wheat area has remained more or less +stationary, although its development is now practically certain, that +of maize has increased to a marked extent--from one hundred and +forty-five thousand hectares, in fact, in 1900 to over two hundred +thousand hectares in 1909. + +The production of oats and barley--although that of either still +remains comparatively insignificant--has increased rapidly during the +past decade. In 1900 the output of oats only just exceeded thirty +tons, whereas in 1909 it had amounted to nearly seven thousand tons. +Barley has a similar, although a somewhat more gradual, tale to tell, +since in the corresponding period its production rose from four +hundred to three thousand tons. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV + +INDUSTRIES AND NATURAL WEALTH (_continued_) + + Minerals--Past obstacles to the proper working of + mines--Gold--Auriferous prospects--Situation of the goldfields of + Uruguay--Past and present workings of the mines--Influence of + politics on labour--The Corrales mines--Manganese--Districts in + which iron ore is met with--Mineral centres--Minas--Maldonado-- + Silver--Copper--Marble--Gypsum--Slate--Sulphur--Asbestos--Precious + stones--Diamonds and rubies--Jasper--Agate--The amethyst and + topaz--The water-stone--A peculiarity of Uruguay--Viticulture-- + Date of the introduction of the vine--Vicissitudes at the start-- + Subsequent rapid progress--Vineyard area of the present day--The + introduction of suitable plants--Countries of origin--Production + of grapes and wine--Departments most suitable to the industry--The + seal fisheries--Originally carried on by the Indians--Habits of the + seals--Development of the industry--Government grants--Conditions + and concessions--Number of skins obtained since 1873--Islands + inhabited by the seals--Method of killing and curing--Waste of + seal life--Suggestions for the improvement of the industry-- + Scientific measures necessary--A diplomatic incident in + connection with the seal fisheries. + + +It is quite possible that Uruguayan minerals may yet cause something +of a sensation throughout the world. In the past her deposits of the +kind have lain comparatively undisturbed, owing to similar reasons +that have hampered the industry in Peru and Bolivia--want of transport +facilities. With the rapid spread of the railways, however, these +disadvantages will shortly become minimised, when no doubt +considerably more will be heard of the mineral wealth of the country. + +Let it be clear that I am not making the following remarks in the +character of a mining expert. The latter profession, according to +vulgar report, is at times not averse to fiction; but the gap that +separates an author from a goldfield is uncomfortably wide. This +apparently frivolous foreword is not altogether uncalled for, since to +speak with undue optimism of the presence of the yellow dross is +dangerous to the layman writer, and profitable only to the expert. +Nevertheless, the auriferous prospects of Uruguay, so far as such can +ever be assured, give no small promise of success. + +The chief goldfields of Uruguay lie in the northern province of +Rivera, and are situated in the neighbourhoods of Corrales, Cuñapiru, +and Zapucaya. A district here of from thirty-five to forty miles in +length and of about seven miles in breadth is thickly interwoven with +auriferous reef. The knowledge of the wealth in this particular spot +is no new thing, as ancient superficial workings on the part of the +Indians prove. From that time the mines had apparently fallen into +disuse until comparatively recent years, when they were in a sense +rediscovered by a French company. The concern, it is true, met with a +consistent lack of prosperity. The actual working is said to have been +carried on in a fashion that was both half-hearted and old-fashioned. +The period, moreover, was a peculiarly disturbed one from a political +point of view, and the province of Rivera has always been famed as the +birthplace and chosen haunt of revolutionary movements. An English +company, however, has now assumed control of the mines, a modern plant +is at work, and gold is actually being yielded. + +Such are the bare historical facts of the chief mines at Corrales. +According to the experts, reefs have been met with that will yield +five ounces to the ton, and, should the reefs prove deep, the +prospects are practically limitless. But this remains to be seen. In +the meanwhile the earth has promised! But its promises, like its crust +in parts, are sometimes of pielike material. In this case, should the +anticipations be realised, there will be no little stir in the +province of Rivera--and elsewhere. + +In the neighbourhood of these mines are enormous deposits of manganese +that are just now beginning to attract special attention. The +quantities of iron, too, that are to be met with here are rather +exceptional. Rivera, however, constitutes by no means the sole mineral +district of Uruguay. The provinces of Minas, Artigas, Maldonado, +Salto, Paysandú, Montevideo, and San José are all more or less well +endowed with the various species. + +Of these remaining centres Minas is probably the richest. Traces of +gold are to be met with here, although in a minor degree, and silver, +copper, marble, gypsum, slate, sulphur, and asbestos would probably +all repay organised handling. Minas also produces lead, but this, too, +has suffered from considerable neglect. Indeed, I believe that one of +the very few ransackings of the mines that have occurred was for the +purpose of manufacturing bullets for the armies during the +revolutionary and civil wars at the beginning of the nineteenth +century. + +The province of Maldonado contains copper, iron, marble, gypsum, +sulphur, and slate, and here, too, the mineral field has remained +almost unexploited up to the present. Montevideo holds manganese and +iron, Salto copper, Florida iron, Paysandú copper, and San José +asbestos. These, at all events, constitute the principal centres of +the minerals specified, although there are others of comparative +insignificance in many other districts. + +Uruguay, too, is by no means without its precious stones. Odd rubies +and diamonds have been met with from time to time, and the jasper and +agate are fairly common. The stones, however, that obtain in really +considerable numbers, and that are consequently of the chief +commercial interest, are the amethyst and the topaz. Of both these +some magnificent specimens are to be met with in the Province of +Artigas. These very handsome stones are now attaining a distinct +popularity amongst the visitors to Montevideo. To those who have not +the opportunity of visiting the remote province of Artigas itself, it +may be mentioned that Agosto Wild, in the Calle Veinte Cinco de Mayo +in Montevideo, is a most trustworthy and reliable dealer. + +A peculiarity of Uruguay is the water-stone that is met with in the +neighbourhood of Salto. This consists of a rounded portion of stone, +more or less knobbly and opaque or smooth and transparent as the case +may be. In the latter the water that is enclosed within it is almost +as plainly seen as though it were held within rather dull glass, and +with every movement of the crystal-like material the motion and +bubblings of the water are very clearly evident. There have been some +mental gymnastics ere now concerning the advent of the apple within +the dumpling: but the presence of this water within the stone suffices +to puzzle the more scientific minds. So far as I am aware, no adequate +explanation of the phenomenon has yet been vouchsafed. + +Viticulture is one of the more recent industries of Uruguay. It has +now, however, obtained a firm hold, and the future of the commerce is +distinctly promising. It was as late as 1860 that the first tentative +plantings of the vine occurred, and it was not until 1875 that a +couple of really important vineyards were established, one at Colon +and the other at Salto, in the north-west of the republic. Even then +the undertaking did not meet with immediate success, and it was some +while ere the type of plant was discovered that would lead to the most +favourable results in the local soil. + +This, however, once discovered, the progress of viticulture has +proceeded almost without a check. The rapidity of its increase may be +gathered from the following figures. In 1880 the number of vineyards +in Uruguay was 16; in 1890, 181; whereas in 1895 the total had swollen +to 748. Since that time the industry has continued to spread. Thus in +1897 the vineyards had increased in number to 824, while in 1905 the +viticultural census showed the very respectable total of 1,453. + +It is only natural that this great increase in vineyards should have +been accompanied by the introduction of a greater variety of suitable +plants. The types of vines that now flourish in Uruguay hail from +France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, and Germany, the importance of the +various kinds being in accordance with the seniority rendered them in +order here. Of the French species introduced the most popular are the +Sauvignon, Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Castel, Merlot, Verdot, Semillon, +Sauvignon blanc, Clairette blanche, and some half-dozen others; of the +Italian the Piamonte, Grignolino Negro, Asprino, Docetto, Leonarda, +Lambrusca, Cipro Negro, and Verdea. The favourite Spanish varieties +are the Cariñana, Morrastel Bouchet, Murviedo, Malvosia Blanca, Pedro +Ximinez, while from Portugal have been introduced the black and the +white grape, and from Germany the Riesling. + +The cultivation of the vineyards is attended by the greatest expense +in the south of the country, where the comparatively humid climate +lends itself more readily to the propagation of the various diseases +to which the vine is subject. Here the American grape, owing to its +immunity from phyloxera in a great degree, flourishes admirably. The +departments in which viticulture is chiefly carried on are at +Montevideo, that possesses a vineyard area of 1,426 hectares; Salto, +719 hectares; Canelones, 699 hectares; Colonia, 490 hectares; +Maldonado, 330 hectares; Paysandú, 177 hectares; Florida, 132 +hectares; Soriano, 125 hectares; and Artigas, 97 hectares. In the +remaining departments the viticultural industry is of small account. + +The later increase in the actual production of grapes and wine will be +evident from the following table: + + -------------+---------------------+------------------- + | Kilos of Grapes. | Litres of Wine. + -------------+---------------------+------------------- + 1904 | 16,387,738 | 10,458,119 + 1905 | 20,304,850 | 11,569,314 + 1906 | 16,408,077 | 9,469,674 + 1907 | 19,385,569 | 11,461,817 + 1908 | 28,753,259 | 18,563,496 + -------------+---------------------+------------------- + +The sealing industry of Uruguay is of considerably greater importance +than is generally supposed. Mr. C. E. R. Rowland, the British Consul +at Montevideo, is the leading English authority on the subject. The +following article, then, which he has kindly supplied, may be taken as +authoritative: + + * * * * * + +The aboriginal races of this part of South America were known to have +resorted to the coast-line during the summer months for their fishing +expeditions, the Indian race of the Charrúas occupying the coastline +from above the river town of Colonia to the borders of the Brazilian +frontier at al Chue, on the Atlantic. + +Traces of their encampment grounds are still to be found along this +coast, principally from Maldonado to the Brazilian frontier, where +many of their primitive weapons and utensils are still to be met with, +and also the remains of what must have been their watch-fires, mounds +of burnt bones, containing amongst the rest bones and teeth of seals +which crumble under touch. + +This coast in these former times evidently abounded in seal life, as +the natural conditions offered every attraction to these now timid +animals. A storm-beaten coast, with plentiful havens, in the mouth of +a large estuary abounding with fish, enticed the seals to the shore +and made them an easy prey to the Indians, but time has driven them to +the present rookeries which now afford them protection. + +The first record of the sealing industry on the coast of Uruguay +having been put to practical purposes is that in the year 1834 they +were rented by the Government for the period of ten years to Señor +Francisco Aguilar for the sum of $80,000. The condition was imposed +that he should erect a suitable edifice to be used as a public school +in the town of Maldonado. This latter condition was altered insomuch +that the building, when completed, was used as a chapel, and has +remained so ever since. + +[Illustration: A SEAL ROOKERY.] + +[Illustration: BASKING SEALS. +To face p. 292.] + +From the termination of this contract up to the year 1858 this +industry was worked by various tenants, but in this latter year the +Government passed a Law imposing a tax of 20 centavos per skin and 4 +centavos per 10 kilos of seal oil, to be paid in equal proportions to +the municipalities of Maldonado and Rocha Departments, on whose coasts +the islands are situated. A further Law in the year 1896 doubled +these taxes, which were destined by the said Law to be applied by the +municipal authorities to the public works and the creation of +artificial parks. + +The following tables will show the number of skins produced from these +islands since the year 1873: + + Year. Skins. + + 1873 8,190 + 1874 9,449 + 1875 9,204 + 1876 11,353 + 1877 11,066 + 1878 14,493 + 1879 14,093 + 1880 16,382 + 1881 14,473 + 1882 13,595 + 1883 12,483 + 1884 14,872 + 1885 12,245 + 1886 17,072 + 1887 17,788 + 1888 21,150 + 1889 15,700 + 1890 20,150 + 1891 13,871 + 1892 15,870 + 1893 14,779 + 1894 20,763 + 1895 17,471 + _____________|__________________ + | | + Island Coronilla Island Lobos + 1896 11,096 12,543 + 1897 9,091 10,143 + 1898 8,908 8,778 + 1899 9,339 7,796 + 1900 8,983 9,845 + 1901 8,023 8,215 + 1902 9,785 11,468 + 1903 5,899 7,929 + 1904 5,114 5,765 + 1905 2,246 3,387 + 1906 4,871 7,212 + 1907 2,880 7,612 + +The islands inhabited by seals on the coast of Uruguay are: + + Castillos Rocks 4 small islands + Polonio 3 " + Paloma 2 " + Lobos 2 " + +The Castillos Rocks are very difficult of access on account of the +heavy swell breaking on them. The Polonio group consists of three +small islands lying directly off the cape of same name, and are called +Raza, Encantado, and De Marco. + +The sealers' huts and boiling-house are on the mainland in a small bay +to the north-east of the lighthouse. The seals when killed on these +islands are skinned with the inside lining of fat attached and are +brought on shore, when the inside lining of fat is taken off and +boiled down. The dead carcasses are left on the island, and in my +opinion the presence of so many dead seals destroyed by human agency +must have some effect upon those animals frequenting these islands, +making them wary and cautious in returning again to a place where the +remains of their companions are so visible. + +Coronilla Islands consist of two large islands, covered with herbage, +and one small "_islote_," or reef, generally awash with the sea. + +On the largest of these islands the sealers live during the season for +the purpose of salting the skins and boiling down the carcass of the +seals for oil. At the end of the season the skins and oil are brought +into Montevideo by tug-boats. + +On Lobos Islands the killing is carried out in a different manner. A +large corral is erected on the middle of the island, and, when seals +are plentiful and the wind and weather are specially favourable, a +drive is made by about fifty men with clubs, who, getting between the +seals and the sea, drive them gently towards the corral. This is done +without much difficulty, and perhaps two thousand may be enclosed in +one day. Once enclosed they are allowed to wait until all preparations +for killing are complete. They are then driven out in batches of +twenty or thirty to the skinning-shed and boiler-house, where they are +dispatched at leisure. + +By this mode of killing I am inclined to think that there must be a +great waste of seal life from an absence of a proper knowledge as +regards the animal killed. No selection is made from those driven +down, and every animal is killed even if the skin is worthless or +mangy. The majority of the animals slaughtered are females, +consequently the stock of production is gradually lessened. Were a +skilled sealer employed for the proper classification of the animals +before killing, it would do away to some extent with the extermination +of seals whose skins at that season were practically worthless. + +On the Paloma Islands very few seals are killed. + +The seizure of the Canadian schooner _Agnes G. Donohoe_ in the year +1905 on the alleged grounds of sealing in jurisdictional waters--that +is, within the three miles limit--caused the intervention of the +British Government. The master and men were under arrest for a period +of ten months, but the case, diplomatically handled at that time by +her Majesty's Representative, Mr. Walter Baring (Minister), and Mr. +Robert Peel (Chargé d'Affaires), was finally settled with satisfaction +to both Governments by the tactful procedure of his Majesty's present +Representative, Mr. Robert J. Kennedy, Minister Plenipotentiary and +Envoy Extraordinary. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI + +COMMUNICATION AND COMMERCE + + British enterprise in South America--The various industries + controlled--The railways of the Southern continent--A remarkable + record--The opening up of new lands--Some possibilities of the + future--Sound basis on which the extension of the lines is + founded--Products and transport facilities--Probable influence of + communications--Uruguayan railways--A high standard of + enterprise--Comfortable travelling--Some comparisons between + Uruguay and Argentina as railway countries--Level country + _versus_ hills--Stone _versus_ alluvial soil--Questions of + ballast--Importance of the new ramifications--Railway + construction in Uruguay--History of the lines--Government + obligations--Mileage and capital of the companies--Interest paid + on capital--Various railway systems--Areas served--The Central + Company--Sketch of lines and extensions--Important + developments--The communication with Brazil--Financial position + of the Company--Midland Uruguay Railway--Development and + extension of the line--Receipts and expenses--The North Western + of Uruguay and Uruguay Northern Railway--Montevidean + tramways--Local, British, and German enterprise--Steamer service + of the River Plate--The Mihanovich line--Ocean passenger + traffic--Montevideo the sole port of call--The Royal Mail Steam + Packet Company--The Pacific Line--The Nelson Line--Other British + companies--Position of British exports--Sound consular advice. + + +British enterprise throughout South America is admittedly remarkable. +If one except the retail and local trades that are carried on by the +native-born inhabitants of each republic, or by the Spaniards, +Basques, Italians, and Turks, each of which have taken some particular +trade under their own protection, there is probably not a single +branch of industry in which the British are not interested in a more +or less important degree. + +From mining and banking to farming and general commerce, the scope is +sufficiently broad. In no other kind of enterprise, however, has +intelligence and skill been so freely lavished as upon that of the +railways. The British have not the sole monopoly of these great +undertakings, it is true. There are the local Government lines, +numerous French railways, and others of various nationalities that are +ably served and administered. Yet almost every one of the most +important lines throughout the entire Southern continent owes its +existence to British capital, and is managed by British officials. The +record is a remarkable one, and the full tale of its magnitude has yet +to be written. It is true that in many branches of industry the ratio +of British increase has not been in proportion with that of other +countries--a falling off that may be inevitable, but that in any case +is regrettable. Fortunately, this is not the case with the railways. +Indeed, when the progress that is now being made is taken into +consideration, it becomes evident that the results that must ensue +within the space of a few years cannot well fail to affect the entire +world. + +Of the feats of this kind that are at the present moment being +achieved some of the most important are concerned with Bolivia, +Paraguay, and the hinterland of Brazil. The opening up of many of the +hitherto inaccessible regions of these countries means more than the +enclosing within the fold of civilisation vast areas of rubber, +timber, and general agriculture. It promises, in fact, some +revelations in the way of minerals and mines that, although the +possibility of a disappointment must never be lost sight of, are +likely enough to prove of an astonishing nature. + +The tales of gold in the untravelled lands where the Indian still +holds sway do undoubtedly not emanate merely from the imagination of +the few travellers who have penetrated within certain of the +districts. The reluctance of the aboriginal to disclose the spots from +which they derive the precious metal is an acknowledged phase of his +character. But it is not solely upon the unwilling testimony of the +Indians that such hopes are based. It is well enough known that when +the expulsion of the Jesuits occurred, and when many of the remoter +districts in which they had established precarious missions returned +to a state of savagery and seclusion, numbers of the mines that were +even then known were abandoned when in the full flush of their +yield--a yield that the primitive native implements could never make +complete. + +But it is not in anticipation of such developments as these that the +railways have been built. The ordinary products of the countries in +question are more than sufficient to demand their existence. The +possibility of greater mineral fields than are at present suspected is +merely a side issue in the general scheme. The influence of steam +transport, however, upon many of the silver-mines cannot fail to be +marked, since the utter want of transport facilities now renders +imperative an astonishing number of mines of this kind the productive +power of which is very great indeed. + +The Uruguayan railways form no exception to the prevailing South +American rule. The three companies in existence in that Republic are +all British, and the standard of each is as high as that of the others +in the remaining republics. Although the enterprises naturally enjoy +lesser advantages in the way of skilled labour and technical +conveniences than those here at home, there can be no doubt that the +degree of comfort enjoyed by the traveller on a Uruguayan line +compares very favourably with that experienced on an average British +railway. The service and observation of punctuality are both to be +commended, while the dining and sleeping cars are not only admirable +of their type, but extremely well adapted to the needs of the country. + +The natural facilities that the Uruguayan country offers for railways +differ considerably from those of the Argentine. In the central +provinces of the latter many hundreds of miles may be travelled +without any gradient whatever becoming apparent. The absence of +streams here, moreover, obviates almost entirely the necessity for +bridge building. It has already been explained that the +characteristics of the Uruguayan Campo are entirely different. +Although it possesses few hills of any really imposing height, its +stretches of dead level ground are equally rare. Thus, although the +gradients may be gentle and sufficiently easy, they are almost +continuous. In some places, moreover, the rise and fall of the line is +necessarily accentuated, and even abrupt--at all events, compared with +the neighbouring areas. + +Although, however, Uruguay may not be quite so favourably situated for +railway purposes as regards its levels, it possesses one very +important advantage over Argentina. In the central and richest +provinces of the latter one of the most serious drawbacks lies in the +total absence of any local material with which to ballast the track. +For hundreds of miles on all sides no stone--not even the merest +pebble--is to be met with, since the land consists of nothing beyond +the rich, alluvial soil. Thus, if stone be required for the perfection +of the tracks, it is necessary to import it from afar, and the haulage +of the material inevitably forms a weighty item in the cost and +upkeep of the line. In this respect Uruguay is far more favourably +provided for. Stone abounds, not only in certain districts but +throughout the country--although, of course, there are many centres +where the quality of the material is far superior to that of others. +Thus the question of ballast and embankments is solved in a very +simple fashion here, and in a land of numerous rivers and streams the +construction of stone bridges is made possible. + +As regards the present position of Uruguayan railways, it is +impossible to over-estimate the importance of the new ramifications +that are now spreading through the country. Uruguay contains no +mysterious hinterland, it is true. But, although every corner of the +Republic is known, the resources of many of its regions have of +necessity remained quite untapped for want of the railway +communication that was essential for the transport of the produce in +whatever shape or form it might emerge from the soil. + +I am indebted to Mr. V. Hinde, the secretary of the Midland Uruguay +Railway, for the following information concerning the railways of the +country: + + * * * * * + +The construction of railways in Uruguay may be said to have commenced +in the year 1866, when a concession was granted for a line from the +capital (Montevideo) to Durazno, a distance of 130 miles. The +construction of this line was followed by the building of a short line +from the city of Salto towards the frontier of Brazil. In 1877 an +English company, the present Central Uruguay Railway Co., Ltd., was +formed to take over the former and complete the line to the town of +Rio Negro, which extension was finished in 1886. + +In the meantime the Uruguayan Government had devoted considerable +attention to the question of railways, and in the year 1884 a law was +passed by the Chambers embodying a definite scheme of railway +communication with various parts of the Republic, the executive being +authorised to contract for lines as outlined, and to guarantee an +income equal to £560 per annum per mile of line for a period of forty +years. A result of this enactment was the formation of several +companies in England, and railway construction was rapidly proceeded +with. By the year 1891, 1,000 miles of line were opened for traffic. +In respect of which some 670 miles enjoyed the Government guarantee, +equal to 7 per cent. on a capitalisation of £5,000 per kilometre. + +At this point, however, further development received a check by the +Government finding it necessary to rearrange its obligations. This +rearrangement took the form of a reduction of the interest on the +External Debt, including railway guarantees, from 7 per cent. to 3-1/2 +per cent., the service at this reduced figure being secured on 45 per +cent. of the Custom House receipts specially hypothecated. Punctual +payment of guarantees at this rate has always been made. + +In 1889 the Central Uruguay Western Extension Railway Company was +formed to construct a line from San José to the towns of Mercedes, +Sauce, and Colonia. This line does not enjoy a Government guarantee, +and reverts to the Government in the year 1862. + +The railway system of the Republic to-day amounts to some 1,432 miles +of line opened for traffic and 78 miles in course of construction. + +The following shows the capital of the respective companies and length +of lines: + + --------------------------------------------+-------+--------------------- + |Mileage| Capital. + | Open. | £ + --------------------------------------------+-------+--------------------- + Central Uruguay Railway, including Western | | + Extension and North Eastern of Uruguay | | } Worked + Railway Co., Ltd. | 482 | 5,403,018 } by + Central Uruguay Eastern Extension Co., | | } Central + Ltd. | 277 | 2,033,400 } Uruguay + Central Uruguay Northern Extension Co., | | } Railway + Ltd. | 182 | 1,627,150 } Co. + Midland Uruguay Railway Co., Ltd. | 229 | 2,378,462 + North Western of Uruguay Railway Co., Ltd. | 111 | 1,435,517 + Uruguay Northern Railway Co., Ltd. | 73 | 855,562 + Uruguay East Coast Railway | 78 | 309,980 + +-------+--------------------- + Total |1,432 |14,044,089 + --------------------------------------------+-------+--------------------- + +The amount of interest, &c., paid on the above capital may be seen in +the table on the following page, which is equal to rather over 4-1/5 +per cent. on the whole capital of £13,444,089. + +The railway system of Uruguay may be said to be represented by the +following companies: + +The Central Uruguay Railway and its allied lines. + +The Midland Uruguay System, which joins that of the Central and forms +a means of communication with the cities of Paysandú and Salto, with a +branch to the town of Fray Bentos, now almost completed. + +The North Western of Uruguay, continuing the railway from Salto to the +frontier of Brazil at Cuareim. + +In addition there are the short lines in the nature of branches--that +of the Northern Uruguay Railway Company, branching from the +North-Western system at Isla de Cabellos connecting with the frontier +of Brazil at San Eugenio; and the Uruguay East Coast Railway from a +junction with the North-Eastern Uruguay system at Olmos to Maldonado, +a distance of seventy-eight miles. + + ------------+-------------------------------------+----------+--------- + £ | Interest paid on Capital. | Per Cent.| £ + ------------+-------------------------------------+----------+--------- + 2,000,000 | Central Uruguay Ordinary Stock | 5 | 100,000 + 400,000 | " " Preference Shares | 5-1/2 | 22,000 + 953,018 | " " Debenture Stock | 6 | 57,181 + 1,000,000 | " " Western Railway | | + | Extension Debenture | 4 | 40,000 + 250,000 | Central Uruguay 2nd Debenture Stock | 6 | 15,000 + 400,000 | North Eastern of Uruguay Preference | | + | Shares | 7 | 28,000 + 400,000 | North Eastern of Uruguay Ordinary | | + | Shares | 7 | 28,000 + 775,000 | Central Uruguay Railway Eastern | | + | Extension Ordinary Shares | 3-3/4 | 29,062 + 775,000 | Central Uruguay Railway Eastern | | + | Extension Preference Shares | 5 | 38,750 + 483,400 | Central Uruguay Railway Eastern | | + | Extension Debenture Stock | 5 | 24,170 + 1,000,000 | Central Uruguay Railway Northern | | + | Extension Ordinary Shares | 3-3/4 | 37,500 + 627,150 | Central Uruguay Railway Northern | | + | Extension Debenture Stock | 5 | 31,357 + 600,000 | Midland Uruguay Railway Ordinary | | + | Stock | nil | ---- + 600,000 | Midland Uruguay Railway Prior Lien | | + | Debenture Stock | 5 | 300,000 + 1,179,462 | Midland Uruguay Railway Debenture | | + | Stock | 5 | 58,973 + 120,120 | North Western of Uruguay Ordinary | | + | Stock | nil | ---- + 293,172 | North Western of Uruguay 2nd | | + | Preference Stock | nil | ---- + 583,850 | North Western of Uruguay 1st | | + | Preference Stock | 2 | 11,677 + 400,000 | North Western of Uruguay 1st | | + | Debenture Stock | 6 | 24,000 + 38,375 | North Western of Uruguay 2nd | | + | Debenture Stock | 6 | 2,302 + 100,000 | Uruguay Northern Railway Ordinary | | + | Shares | nil | ---- + 250,000 | Uruguay Northern Railway Preference | | + | Stock | 1 | 2,500 + 449,400 | Uruguay Northern Railway Debenture | | + | Stock | 3-1/2 | 15,729 + 56,162 | Uruguay Northern Railway Prior Lien | | + | Debenture Stock | 5 | 2,808 + 125,000 | Uruguay East Coast Railway Ordinary | | + | Shares | nil | ---- + 184,980 | Uruguay East Coast Railway | | + | Debenture Stock | nil | ---- + ------------+-------------------------------------| |--------- + £14,044,089 | | | £599,009 + ------------+-------------------------------------+----------+--------- + +_Central Company._--By far the most important system is that of the +Central Company, including leased and worked lines. The lines of this +system extend from the capital to the frontier of Brazil at Rivera, +with branches to the city of Mercedes in the west, and the towns of +Melo, Treinta y Tres, and Minas on the Eastern and North-Eastern +Extension. The railway from the capital passes through a +well-populated agricultural district for a radius of about thirty +miles; this radius is gradually extending, stimulated by the +increasing importance of Montevideo and the gradual breaking up of +lands in the fertile regions of the western and eastern extensions. + +The extension now finished to Melo opens up another district suitable +to the cultivation of cereals, from which considerable traffic is +being derived. + +An extremely important matter in connection with the future +development of these lines, and, in fact, all the railway interests of +the Republic, is to be found in the completion of the port works at +Montevideo. Until the port works were taken in hand the embarkation of +cargo at this principal outlet of the Republic had been greatly +hampered by natural difficulties, and consequently heavy charges in +connection with the lighterage from the railway wharf to the ocean +steamers. The deepening of the inner port and the construction of +extensive wharfs and piers at which ocean steamers can berth will +doubtless lead to an increase in traffic, not only from Uruguay but +the neighbouring State of Rio Grande do Sul. + +An important connection with the railway system of Rio Grande do Sul +is made at the terminus of the Central Uruguay Northern Extension +Railway at Rivera, and by the completion of a connecting link between +the Sao Paulo Rio Grande Railway System and the lines of the Cie +Auxiliare de Chemins de Fer au Bresil, a Company which controls +practically the whole railway system of the State of Rio Grande do Sul +(now almost completed), direct railway communication will be +established between Montevideo and Rio de Janeiro. + +The following table shows the result of working of the Central Uruguay +Main Line, exclusive of extensions, which, as far as expansion in +receipts is concerned, may be regarded as indicative of those lines: + + -------------------------------------------------------- + Year. | Receipts. | Expenses. | Profit. | Dividend. | + --------------------------------------------------------| + | | | | Per Cent. | + 1904-5 | 414,228 | 190,165 | 223,572 | 4-1/2 | + 1905-6 | 442,083 | 212,465 | 229,618 | 5 | + 1906-7 | 493,682 | 244,922 | 248,760 | 5 | + 1907-8 | 508,044 | 272,104 | 235,940 | 4-1/2 | + 1908-9 | 557,122 | 287,505 | 269,617 | 4-1/2 | + 1909-10| 577,489 | 287,959 | 289,530 | 5 | + -------------------------------------------------------- + +The increase in gross receipts is perhaps not quite so marked as in +the case of neighbouring lines in the Argentine Republic, and a reason +for this is to be found in the fact that, favoured by magnificent +grazing camps, cattle raising is still the principal industry of +Uruguay. Agricultural development, although more marked of recent +years, has been slow, but an increase in this is probably due to +efforts which are being made by the Government to promote colonisation +and the extension of lines in the Eastern provinces. + +_Midland Uruguay Railway._--This Company's line passes through an +entirely pastoral district, and its traffic is principally derived +from the carriage of cattle, wool, and general merchandise. An +important extension is now practically completed to Fray Bentos, the +headquarters of Liebig's Extract of Meat Company. The River Uruguay at +this point is navigable for large ocean steamers, and a pier has been +erected to accommodate these, which will put the railway system of the +north of the Republic in a more favourable position to handle the +various products of cattle-killing establishments, both in Uruguay and +on the Brazilian side of the frontier of Rio Grande do Sul, an +industry of increasing importance. + + ------------------------------------------------------------- + Year. | Gross Receipts. | Expenses. | Profit. | Dividend. | + -------------------------------------------------------------| + 1905-6 | 60,533 | 50,304 | 10,229 | | + 1906-7 | 75,887 | 60,833 | 15,054 | | + 1907-8 | 72,172 | 67,153 | 5,019 | | + 1908-9 | 81,503 | 71,114 | 10,389 | | + 1909-10 | 88,165 | 67,479 | 20,686 | | + ------------------------------------------------------------- + +At the present time a considerable tonnage is transported by river +from Salto for shipment from Buenos Aires. It is possible, therefore, +that the extension of the Midland Company to Fray Bentos will play an +important part in the development of its line and those of the +companies north of Salto, and Fray Bentos should very shortly become +the second port of the Republic. + +The receipts in Uruguay of the Midland Company have shown some +expansion of late years, having increased from £55,000 in the year +ending June 30, 1904, to £88,165 in 1909-10 (see opposite page). + +_The North-Western of Uruguay Railway and Uruguay Northern +Railway._--The remarks with regard to the nature of the country and +the traffic of the Midland apply also to these lines. At the terminus +of the North-Western Line at the River Cuareim arrangements exist for +the interchange of traffic with the Brazil Great Southern Railway, and +the respective Governments have sanctioned a project for the +construction of an international bridge to connect the lines at this +point. It is probable that this bridge will be constructed within the +next few years, as the interchange of traffic due to the extension of +the Brazil Great Southern Railway to San Borju is likely to be +considerably enhanced. + +The excellent tramways with which Montevideo is served are +administered by three companies, local, British, and German. The local +enterprise is considerably the smallest of the three, the extent of +its lines not exceeding twelve miles. The concern, moreover, is +dependent solely upon horse traction, with its attendant +disadvantages. + +The British enterprise, the United Electric Tramway Company, is the +most important in the capital. It possesses eighty-two miles of line, +195 passenger-cars, and sixty-eight trailers. By the terms of the +concession at least two-thirds of the employees must be citizens of +the country. The Compania Alemania Transatlantia is a German Company, +with a length of seventy-five miles of electric tramlines. + +The steamer service of the River Plate and Uruguay is almost entirely +in the hands of the Mihanovich Company, as, indeed, is that of the +entire system of these great rivers. The Company is an extremely +powerful one, possessing a very large fleet that comprises all classes +of steam vessels from the small, puffing tug to the largest and most +modern liner of the fresh waters. Many of these latter are peculiarly +fine specimens of their type, graceful in build, powerfully equipped, +and provided with broad and roomy decks. Although the larger of these +craft will carry between two and three hundred passengers, the cabin +and saloon accommodation is contrived on a most liberal and imposing +scale. Indeed, there is no doubt that the Mihanovich boats are a +credit to the broad rivers on which they float. + +So far as the ocean passenger traffic is concerned, Montevideo is the +sole Uruguayan port at which the liners call. The capital affords a +port of call for the magnificent vessels of the Royal Mail Steam +Packet Company that, notwithstanding their size, are now enabled by +means of the recent harbour improvements to enter the inner waters of +the port. Of the other British lines concerned, the most important are +the Pacific (that is now incorporated with the R.M.S.P.) and the +Nelson Line, that possesses a fine new fleet of ten-thousand-ton +boats. The other great British shipping companies whose vessels call +at Montevideo are the Lamport and Holt, Houlder, Prince, Houston, the +New Zealand Shipping Company, and the Shaw, Savill. + +Thus it will be seen that in all monumental undertakings of the kind +the British are holding their own in a satisfactory fashion. As +regards ordinary commerce and the exports of manufactured goods, the +progress, unfortunately, is by no means so evident. I have so +frequently laid stress upon the narrowness of the home commercial +ideas in this respect that still obtains in so many quarters that I am +glad to be able to quote the words of another that admirably fit the +case. The following is from the Consular Report on Uruguay issued in +1910, and the sentences undoubtedly sum up the situation with a +commendable accuracy: "It has been pointed out to me that careful +investigation into the commercial methods of our competitors reveals +several reasons why British trade has failed to retain the proportion +of the imports it held a few years ago. For instance, greater +attention to detail is paid by the foreign merchant than by his +British rival, who, as a rule, adheres in catalogues and invoices to +British standard weights and measures and prices, without giving their +equivalent in terms of the country. In tenders for public works German +firms study the specifications with minute care, and tender for every +item, leaving nothing in doubt, besides drawing up their applications +in so clear and simple a manner as to give the minimum labour in +examination, and the maximum of facility in comparison to the +authorities who deal with them; whereas British tenderers sometimes +merely quote a lump sum, ignoring all details, and often, when details +are given, the price of many items is left vague, 'As may be agreed +upon.' When goods are imported into the country from Germany, France, +the United States of America, &c., a detailed statement in Spanish of +the contents of each package is generally furnished, with metric +weights and measures, which facilitates their rapid examination and +dispatch, whereas British firms as a rule content themselves with the +brief statement, 'Case containing machinery' or 'hardware,' &c., +leaving to the Custom House official the task of working out details +and calculations. + +"Then, again, as regards languages, the British commercial traveller, +armed with British catalogues and price lists [although I note with +pleasure that some are now printed in Spanish], knows no language but +his own, but the German invariably speaks Spanish and English, and he +has carefully studied beforehand the needs of the market which he is +visiting and the financial position of merchants. This gives him a +great advantage over his British rival, who rarely has previous +knowledge of his would-be customers, and is dependent on such chance +information as he may pick up to be subsequently confirmed by +inquiries at the banks. Time is thus lost, and irritation is caused to +respectable buyers, who resent what appears to them impertinent +suspicion." + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII + +POLITICS AND REVOLUTIONS + + The Constitution of Uruguay--Government of the Republic--Deputies + and senators--Their duties--The Civil Code--Marriage--Rights of + foreigners--Law--The Commission of Charity and Public + Welfare--Hospitals--Orphan asylums--Infirmaries--The charity + hospital lottery--The distribution of political parties--The + Colorados and the Blancos--Policy of both--Feud between the + parties--Old-standing strife--Explanation of the + nomenclature--Origin of the feud--Rivera and Oribe--Inherited + views--Attitude of the foreigners--Revolutions--Manner of their + outbreak--Government precautions--The need of finance and + arms--Some rebellious devices--Rifles as Manchester goods--The + importance of horses--Difficulties that attend a revolutionary + movement--The sweeping up of horses--Equine concentration + camps--A powerful weapon in the hands of the authorities--First + signs of an outbreak--Sylvan rendezvous--The question of + reinforcements--Some desperate ventures--Their accustomed + end--Chieftains of the north--Effect of a revolution upon local + industries--Needs of the army--Estancia hands as troopers--Hasty + equipment--Manner in which actual hostilities are conducted--"The + Purple Land that England lost"--The spirit of modernism and the + internal struggle--Tendency to localise the fields of + strife--Power of the Colorado party--Whence the respective + partisans are drawn--Distinguishing insignia--Some necessary + precautions on the part of the foreigner--Adventures derived from + colour in clothes--Some ludicrous episodes--The expense of + revolution. + + +The Constitution of Uruguay has now stood the test of eighty years, +and thus claims to be the oldest in South America, or, at all events, +the one that has suffered no modification for the longest period of +time. The basis on which this is composed is liberal in the extreme, +and the laws undoubtedly concede to Oriental subjects an amount of +freedom that can be surpassed in few other countries. + +The Republic possesses two chambers, one of deputies elected by the +direct vote of the people, the other of senators. In addition to their +legislative functions it is the duty of these chambers to elect the +President of the nation, whose term of office lasts for four years. +The chambers also nominate the judges of the High Court, who, in turn, +select the magistrates of the lower courts. + +The civil code is largely based upon the Napoleonic model. It may be +as well to note rapidly a few of its more salient features. From the +point of view of the resident foreigner it is admirable in at least +one respect, since it makes no distinction between the civil rights +accorded to Uruguayans and those to foreigners. Civil marriage is +obligatory, the offspring of a union contracted solely by the Church +being considered illegitimate. In commerce the system of arrest for +debt is not admitted, the only cases of the kind in which imprisonment +is imposed being those in which an element of fraud has entered. In +criminal law the death penalty has been abolished, and the various +modes of punishment consist of solitary imprisonment, exile, +deprivations, suspension from public employment, ordinary +imprisonment, and fines. + +On the whole, there is a satisfactory absence of red-tape in Uruguayan +administrative and municipal affairs. It is true that in litigation +the delays are occasionally lengthy; but the popular idea on this +point has been much exaggerated, and the dispatch of legal business is +far more satisfactory than is generally supposed. The great majority +of officials, moreover, discharge their duties in a reasonable and +fair-minded fashion that has been heartily acknowledged by many a +resident foreigner. + +Uruguay possesses comparatively few paupers. Indeed, it would be +strange were this otherwise in a land the resources of which are in +excess of the population. Nevertheless a certain proportion of the +lame, blind, halt, and indigent is inevitable, and these unfortunate +human elements are well cared for. Public assistance towards this end +is chiefly in the hands of a Commission of Charity and Public Welfare, +formed of twenty-one members, two-thirds of whom must be citizens of +the Republic. + +The powers of this Commission are considerable, and they control a +number of important institutions, such as hospitals, orphan asylums, +and establishments of refuge for the infirm, indigent, and insane. +These are, almost without exception, exceedingly well-organised, and +conducted on the most modern humanitarian lines. The financial support +necessary for the upkeep of these charities is derived to a large +extent from rates and taxes. In addition to this a special lottery has +been instituted that is known as the "Charity Hospital Lottery." +Twenty-five per cent. of its proceeds are devoted to the institution +in question. The support at present derived from this source is not +inconsiderable, as will be evident when it is explained that the +amount it rendered in 1809 exceeded eight hundred thousand dollars. + +We now arrive at the political affairs of Uruguay--a subject that +calls for explanation at some length. So far as the distribution of +parties is concerned, the matter is simple enough. Shifting parties, +fusions and splits between contending sections, and the general +complications that attend changing political programmes are to all +intents and purposes absent here. The rival parties of Uruguay are the +Colorados (reds) and the Blancos (whites). The policy of both is +equally well-defined, and, indeed, is amazingly simple. It is to +govern! The national programme would almost certainly remain exactly +the same whichever were in power. Thus the aim of the party that is +"out" is to obtain power in the first place, and to declare their +policy of government afterwards. + +The feud between the parties is one of old-standing. It commenced with +the final wars of liberation, became strongly marked with the +establishment of the Republic over eighty years ago, and has continued +without intermission from that day to this. The origin of the party +terms dates from the war of liberation. General Oribe was the founder +of the Blanco party and General Rivera that of the Colorado. The +former was wont to ride a white horse, the latter a bay, and the +distinguishing colours of the lance pennons of their followers were +respectively white and red. + +It is a little curious to consider that the present-day party strife +in Uruguay is the direct legacy of the disputes between these two +generals that broke out in the first instance ere the Banda Oriental +had even been proclaimed a nation! In 1830 Rivera was elected first +Constitutional President of the Republic; he was succeeded on March 1, +1835, by his rival, Manuel Oribe, and in 1838 there broke out what is +known as the _Grande Guerra_, which lasted, with varying results, +until 1852. In 1853 a triumvirate was formed, consisting of Rivera, +Lavalleja, and Flores, and in the following year the last named, on +the death of his two colleagues, was elected Constitutional President. +Since that time there have been no less than twenty-three presidents, +constitutional and provisional, of whom only two, Perreira and Berro, +from 1856 to 1864, have been Blancos. In that year the Colorado party +got into office, and have maintained themselves, in spite of the +forcible efforts of the Blancos to expel them. + +It will be seen that no political principle divides the two parties; +men are simply Blanco or Colorado because their fathers and +grandfathers were so before them, but they cling to their respective +parties with a strange courage and high sense of honour. In the case +of foreign immigrants whose sons, born in the country, become Oriental +subjects, but who have no Blanco or Colorado traditions to inherit, +what happens is this: the youths go to school, form boyish +friendships, and by pure accident become ardent supporters of one or +other of the two parties. Two brothers may thus chance to become +bitter political opponents, and when a revolution breaks out they are +to be found fighting on opposite sides. The situation may savour a +little of the Gilbertian, but it is sufficiently serious for the +families involved. It must be admitted that many revolutions in +Uruguay are curious affairs. To one not in close touch with the +national movements an outbreak of the kind may appear to burst forth +spontaneously, whereas it has probably been anticipated by the +Government as well as by the revolutionaries for months beforehand. In +these days even the most casual insurrection is not to be effected +without a certain amount of forethought. First of all financial sinews +are indispensable, and, these once obtained, it follows that a supply +of arms is equally essential. + +The introduction of these is the most difficult feat of all to +accomplish, since the Government adopts methods of precaution, and +keeps a sharp look-out for any possible importations of the kind. Thus +as a rule the weapons are either smuggled across the Brazilian +frontier or over some of the more lonely stretches of the River +Uruguay. Occasionally a device is tried similar to that which met with +success in the Transvaal Colony previous to the South African War. +When I was in Uruguay at the end of 1910 many indications were at +hand that went to prove the imminence of a revolution, and the +authorities, not only in Uruguay but in the neighbouring countries, +were on the alert for any development that might arise. At this period +a large number of innocent-looking packing-cases, purporting to +contain Manchester goods, were in transit through Argentina destined +for one of the northern Oriental ports on the Uruguay River. Through +some cause or other the cases came under suspicion, and they were +opened ere they had crossed the Argentine frontier. In place of the +Manchester goods reposed thousands of grim Mauser rifles and millions +of cartridges! The discovery of these weapons must have dealt a bitter +blow to the insurrectionist cause; nevertheless, as anticipated, the +revolution broke out a few weeks later. + +I have said that both weapons and cash are essential for the purpose +of a revolution--which is obvious enough in almost every country as +well as in Uruguay. But there is a third requisite that is quite as +indispensable as either of the former. The Uruguayan is a born +cavalryman, and a horse is necessary to him, not only for the +partaking in the actions but for the covering of the lengthy distances +that have to be traversed. A score of leagues and more frequently lie +between a man and his appointed rendezvous. A pedestrian in the midst +of the hills and valleys would be a lost and negligible unit. + +[Illustration: OX WAGON ON THE CAMPO.] + +[Illustration: CROSS COUNTRY TRAVELLING. +To face p. 316.] + +It might be imagined that the matter was simple enough, and that all a +revolutionist had to do when the time for the outbreak arrived was to +mount his horse, and to ride away over the hills to join his fellows. +In actual fact a rising is not to be started in this fashion. It is +inevitable in the first place that numerous preparations must occur +ere the time for active operations has ripened, and it is equally +inevitable that an organisation of the kind, with whatever attempt at +secrecy it may be conducted, cannot proceed without becoming known to +the Government. + +The eve of an outbreak is, in consequence, marked by tremendous +vigilance on the part of the authorities. Troopers and police are +dispatched to strategic positions throughout the country, and then for +a while the nation waits in anxious expectation while the tension +increases. With the first hint of the actual banding together of the +revolutionary companies the authorities strike a blow--not at the men +themselves, but at their means of transport. The troopers and police +ride hastily in all directions, and scour the countryside in search of +every horse that is available. When the districts have been swept +quite clear of their equine population the horses are driven together +to the various headquarters, where they remain, strongly guarded. + +This very practical measure naturally provides the authorities with a +power with which it is difficult for the revolutionists to cope. It is +distinctly fatal to a premature or to a belated move on their part, +and even should they chance to strike upon the most favourable moment, +the horse-gathering policy militates strongly against any likelihood +of eventual success. Should the malcontents determine to proceed with +the affair in the face of this discouragement, they, of course, follow +the lead of the Government, and endeavour to annex all the mounts that +the authorities have been unable to carry off in time. + +So far as the militant programme of the revolutionists is concerned, +the first sign of an outbreak is invariably the riding away of a +number of men from townships and estancias to the woods in the remoter +and more lonely districts. These sylvan rendezvous are, of course, +known to the party in general beforehand, and here the leaders of the +movement lie hidden in order to await the advent of reinforcements. +The first move is simple enough; but it is the arrival of the +necessary reinforcements that is frequently frustrated by the +precautionary measures of the Government. + +Should the matter appear quite hopeless, it is even then possible for +the insurrectionists to disperse and to return to their homes ere the +shedding of blood has occurred. The Uruguayan, however, is not noted +without reason for his spirit of reckless daring. It frequently +happens that a forlorn band, once gathered, will refuse to disperse, +and then the result of the campaign is usually short and sharp. In the +ordinary course of events the adventurers will lie hidden until a +sufficient force has come in, one by one, or in parties of three and +four. Then they will ride out and commence active operations, of which +the end in these days is invariably the defeat of the party. + +Many of the attributes of these revolutions are not a little quaint +and picturesque--reminiscent, in fact, of the times when personality +counted more and system less. In the remote country districts, more +especially in those of the north, are many prominent men who occupy +more or less the position of chieftains, or that of the old Caudillos +who have left so great a mark on Uruguayan history. Each of these is a +power in himself, according to the extent of his following; for each +can count upon his own particular body of armed men just as surely as +could the feudal knights upon their mediæval retainers. These +personalities are naturally marked, and their movements are closely +watched in a period of unrest. + +A Uruguayan revolution, even when in full blast, has this to be said +in its favour, that it does not in the least interfere with the +liberty or with the movements of a resident foreigner. If he be an +estanciero, however, and should the tide of campaign flow into his +district, it is likely enough that it will affect him materially in +much the same fashion that a strike influences the fortunes of +dwellers in industrial districts. It is obvious enough that when the +Government is in need of recruits the claims of neither the pastures +nor the shearing-shed can rival those of the cause. Unfortunately for +the estanciero, there is almost certainly not a man in his employ who +is not admirably adapted for a trooper, and none are more alive to +this fact than the Government recruiting-officers. Thus, when the +official party arrives its members will be polite but firm, and a +short while afterwards the station hands will be bearing rifles +instead of lassos, and a _capataz_ or two--the foremen on the +estate--will find their heads raised a little higher in the air +beneath the support of a military title, although it is possible that +this may be effected a little at the expense of their pockets, since +the pay is not in proportion to the temporary rank. + +In the circumstances of haste that obtain at such moments it may be +imagined that, with the exception of the Government regular forces, +the equipment on both sides knows little of the accepted insignia of +military pomp. Indeed, a rifle and a badge in the majority of cases +alone distinguish the militant from the ordinary civilian. But at such +periods it must be admitted that, putting aside the foreigners, very +few ordinary civilians are left in the disturbed areas, since, when +the tide of warfare rolls his way, it is practically impossible for an +Oriental to remain neutral. Even were he so inclined, it is doubtful +whether he would be given the opportunity. + +In order to obtain an insight into the manner in which the actual +hostilities are conducted no better means could be adopted than the +perusal of a novel, "The Purple Land that England Lost," from the pen +of a great authority on the River Plate, Mr. W. H. Hudson. It is true +that the descriptions deal with a period when the present prosperity +of the Banda Oriental had not yet come into existence; but the vivid +local colouring must hold good for all the contemporary softening of +the national methods. + +The spirit of modernism that is now evident in Uruguay has entered to +a certain extent into the waging of these internal struggles that +themselves by rights should belong to the past. The Oriental is +perfectly willing to acknowledge that the dispute concerns himself +alone, and the tendency to localise the fields of strife and to +respect private property is becoming more and more marked. A certain +amount of inevitable damage, however, ensues. In districts where fuel +is scarce fence-posts and even railway-sleepers are apt to be employed +for the purpose of the camp fires. + +So far as the parties themselves are concerned, the tenacity of the +Uruguayan character is clearly evidenced in the continued struggles of +the Blancos. In view of the fact that this party has not been in +office since 1864, it might be thought that forty-seven years of +unsuccessful attempts would have cured it of an ambition that has been +so costly both in life and purse. Nevertheless, whether openly or +covertly, the contest continues with much the same amount of +bitterness that characterised it from the start. + +[Illustration: PEDIGREE CATTLE.] + +[Illustration: OVEN BIRD'S NEST. +To face p. 320.] + +Broadly speaking, it may be said that the Colorado party is made up of +the dwellers in the towns and more populous centres, while the Blancos +are represented to a large extent by the dwellers in the Campo and the +clerical party. Of course, no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down on +the subject: there are Blancos in plenty to be met with in the towns, +and numbers of the opposing section to be found in the country; but +in the main the distinction applies. + +The districts in which the Blancos are most strongly represented of +all are those of the northern provinces of Tacuarembó and Rivera, more +especially the latter, since it offers in case of need the refuge of +the Brazilian frontier. Party feeling at all times runs high, and in +these districts that are almost altogether given over to the Blanco +cause a certain amount of caution is necessary should a revolution +actually be in progress. Much stress, for instance, is laid on the +insignia that--in the absence of regular military uniforms--distinguish +the adherents of one side from those of the other. In a Blanco +district, when trouble is seething, it may be laid down as a +hard-and-fast maxim that the traveller should wear no trace of red +about his person. The precaution may seem grotesque, yet many +ludicrous mistakes have occurred through a failure to observe it. + +One of the numerous instances of the kind was provided me by a mining +engineer, who had himself undergone the experience. Appointed as +manager to a goldmine in the far north of the Republic, he happened to +arrive, a stranger to the country, during the period of unrest in +1904. Nearing his destination, he had left the railway-line, and was +completing the last few leagues of his journey by coach, when he +stopped for refreshment at a small _pulperia_, or rural inn. + +The place was fairly well filled with _peones_, and with the various +types of the local labourer, and no sooner had he entered the doors +than it became obvious to the traveller that his advent had caused a +deep sensation amongst these folk. The landlord served him with +reluctance and a visible show of embarrassment, while the black looks +of the rest grew deeper, until the demeanour of a certain number +became actually threatening. The mining engineer turned in amazement +to the _pulpero_, who in mute accusation pointed a finger at the tie +he wore. It was a vivid red! The traveller had learned sufficient of +the country's situation to enable him to understand something of the +situation. The group of Blancos were fully under the impression that +one of their hated political enemies had defiantly come to beard them +in their very midst. Explanations produced only a minor result, since +these hardy dwellers in the back-blocks were wont to judge by deeds +rather than by words. So, perceiving that no other remedy remained, +the wearer of the hated badge hurried out to his coach, unstrapped one +of his bags, and entered the pulperia once more, bearing beneath his +collar a standard of neutrality and peace in the shape of a black tie! +On this the local patrons of the inn expressed their entire +satisfaction, and profound peace reigned in the pulperia. + +It would be possible to mention a number of similar episodes. There +have even been cases when the colouring of surveyor's poles has given +an unpleasantly political significance to instruments that were never +more misjudged. But even such ludicrous side-issues serve to show the +amount of bitterness that exists amongst the humblest members of +either cause. Such determined struggles, it is true, are not a little +eloquent of the virility and energy of a nation. Nevertheless, it will +be a bright day for Uruguay when the country can look upon its +revolutions as past history. As I have said elsewhere, these minor +wars have not succeeded in arresting the forward march of the +Republic. Yet their cessation could not fail to produce an even +greater acceleration in the present rate of progress. Since every +thoughtful Uruguayan admits this to the full, and openly deplores +these periodical outbursts of unrest, it is to be hoped that the days +of internal peace will not be much longer delayed. + + + + +APPENDIX + +FINANCIAL AND COMMERCIAL STATISTICS + + The increase in Uruguay's trade with foreign countries since + 1862--Trade with foreign countries in 1908--Imports of articles + destined for commercial purposes--Imports of articles destined + for industrial purposes--Ports to which Uruguayan wool was + chiefly exported during 1908--Values of imports from foreign + countries--Values of exports to foreign countries--Values of + goods handled by the various ports since 1909--Proportion of + cultivated soil compared with the area of departments--Live stock + census of the Republic in 1900, showing the amounts owned by + Uruguayan and foreign proprietors--The distribution of live stock + in the various departments--Principal articles exported from + Uruguay to the United Kingdom in 1909--Principal articles + exported from the United Kingdom to Uruguay in 1909--Uruguay's + Budget--Distribution of expenditure among the various + departments--Services provided for by special revenues--Principal + sources from which the revenues are derived--The development of + the State Bank during the years 1897-1909--Balance-sheet--Cereal + production in tons--Cereal harvest for the year 1908-9--Cable, + telegraph, and telephone systems--Postal service. + + +TABLE SHOWING THE INCREASE IN URUGUAY'S TRADE WITH FOREIGN COUNTRIES +SINCE 1862 + + ------+-------------+-------------+------------+ + Year. | Imports. | Exports. | Total. | + ------+-------------+-------------+------------+ + 1862 | $8,151,802 | $8,804,442 |$16,956,244 | + 1864 | 8,384,167 | 6,334,706 | 14,718,873 | + 1866 | 14,608,091 | 10,665,040 | 25,273,131 | + 1867 | 17,657,918 | 12,077,795 | 29,735,713 | + 1868 | 16,102,465 | 12,139,720 | 28,242,195 | + 1869 | 16,830,078 | 13,930,827 | 30,760,705 | + 1870 | 15,003,342 | 12,779,051 | 27,782,393 | + 1871 | 14,864,247 | 13,334,224 | 28,198,471 | + 1872 | 18,859,794 | 15,489,532 | 34,349,256 | + 1873 | 21,075,446 | 16,301,772 | 37,377,218 | + 1874 | 17,481,672 | 15,244,785 | 32,426,455 | + 1875 | 12,431,408 | 12,693,610 | 25,125,018 | + 1876 | 12,500,000 | 13,727,000 | 26,527,000 | + 1877 | 15,045,846 | 15,899,405 | 30,945,251 | + 1878 | 15,927,974 | 17,492,159 | 33,420,153 | + 1879 | 15,949,303 | 16,645,961 | 32,595,864 | + 1880 | 19,478,868 | 19,752,201 | 39,231,069 | + 1881 | 17,918,884 | 20,229,512 | 38,148,396 | + 1882 | 18,174,800 | 22,062,934 | 40,237,734 | + 1883 | 20,322,311 | 25,221,664 | 35,543,975 | + 1884 | 24,550,674 | 24,759,485 | 49,309,559 | + 1885 | 25,275,476 | 25,253,036 | 50,528,512 | + 1886 | 20,194,655 | 23,811,986 | 44,006,641 | + 1887 | 24,615,944 | 18,671,996 | 43,287,940 | + 1888 | 29,477,448 | 28,008,254 | 57,485,702 | + 1889 | 36,823,863 | 25,954,107 | 62,777,970 | + 1890 | 32,364,627 | 29,085,519 | 61,450,146 | + 1891 | 18,978,420 | 26,998,270 | 45,976,690 | + 1892 | 18,404,296 | 25,915,819 | 44,356,115 | + 1893 | 19,671,640 | 27,681,373 | 47,353,013 | + 1894 | 23,800,370 | 33,470,511 | 57,279,881 | + 1895 | 24,596,193 | 32,543,643 | 57,279,881 | + 1896 | 25,530,185 | 30,403,084 | 55,933,269 | + 1897 | 19,512,216 | 29,219,573 | 48,831,789 | + 1898 | 24,784,361 | 30,276,916 | 55,061,277 | + 1899 | 25,552,800 | 36,574,164 | 62,226,964 | + 1900 | 23,978,206 | 29,410,862 | 53,389,068 | + 1901 | 23,691,932 | 27,731,126 | 51,423,058 | + 1902 | 23,517,347 | 33,602,512 | 57,119,859 | + 1903 | 26,103,966 | 37,317,909 | 62,421,975 | + 1904 | 21,217,000 | 38,485,000 | 59,702,000 | + 1905 | 30,778,000 | 30,805,000 | 61,583,000 | + 1906 | 34,455,000 | 33,402,000 | 67,857,000 | + 1907 | 37,470,715 | 34,912,072 | 72,382,787 | + 1908 | 36,188,723 | 40,296,367 | 76,485,090 | + 1909 | 37,136,764 | 45,789,703 | 82,946,467 | + ------+-------------+-------------+------------+ + + +URUGUAY'S TRADE WITH FOREIGN COUNTRIES IN 1908. A COMPARISON WITH THAT +OF SOME OTHER CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICAN STATES + + Uruguay $76,485,090 + Peru 49,585,000 + Bolivia 33,837,000 + Columbia 28,512,636 + Venezuela 26,540,905 + Ecuador 15,296,627 + Santo Domingo 14,613,807 + Costa Rica 13,386,930 + Guatemala 12,567,729 + San Salvador 10,028,237 + Panama 9,563,946 + Haiti 8,180,008 + Paraguay 7,661,468 + Nicaragua 7,500,000 + Honduras 4,664,039 + + +URUGUAY'S IMPORTS OF ARTICLES DESTINED FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES + + ----------------------+-------------+------------+------------+----------- + | Yearly | | | + |average from | 1905. | 1906. | 1907. + |1898 to 1902.| | | + ----------------------+-------------+------------+------------+----------- + Various foods | $4,938,000 | $5,293,397 | $6,966,500 | $6,530,700 + Beverages | 2,359,000 | 1,724,185 | 1,808,500 | 2,097,000 + Tobacco | 218,000 | 306,142 | 280,109 | 697,000 + Cotton manufactures | 3,265,000 | 4,900,000 | 4,400,000 | 4,555,000 + Woollen " | 1,203,000 | 1,523,600 | 1,814,000 | 1,879,800 + Thread " | 155,000 | 170,086 | 166,000 | 226,100 + Silk " | 276,000 | 303,286 | 364,000 | 521,500 + Other " | 344,000 | 1,727,492 | 1,587,000 | 955,000 + Chemical and | | | | + pharmaceutical | | | | + products | 507,000 | 751,993 | 718,000 | 1,178,000 + Musical instruments | 61,000 | 93,873 | 106,800 | 116,600 + Paper and cardboard | 496,000 | 615,617 | 675,100 | 709,300 + Manufactured metal | 707,000 | 1,072,426 | 1,078,100 | 593,600 + China and earthenware | 84,000 | 163,000 | 186,800 | 185,400 + Jewels, crystals, &c. | 373,000 | 494,815 | 546,000 | 724,000 + Various articles | 1,271,000 | 1,635,203 | 1,948,800 | 1,384,315 + |-------------+------------+------------+----------- + Total | $17,271,000 |$20,775,651 |$22,645,700 |$22,353,615 + ----------------------+-------------+------------+------------+----------- + + +URUGUAY'S IMPORTS OF ARTICLES DESTINED FOR INDUSTRIAL PURPOSES + + -----------------------+-------------+------------+------------+----------- + | Yearly | | | + |average from | 1905. | 1906. | 1907. + |1898 to 1902.| | | + -----------------------+-------------+------------+------------+----------- + Livestock | $1,388,000 | $1,822,452 | $990,000 | $754,000 + Machine oil | 533,000 | 691,860 | 781,400 | 841,400 + Coal | 1,128,000 | 1,366,564 | 1,723,000 | 1,879,000 + Paints and inks | 139,000 | 224,784 | 223,000 | 320,000 + Timber | 1,112,000 | 1,605,410 | 1,526,000 | 1,620,000 + Wooden manufactures | 134,000 | 308,175 | 349,000 | 418,700 + Tanned hides | 211,030 | 310,756 | 379,000 | 258,000 + Iron and steel | 420,000 | 684,959 | 883,000 | 1,688,500 + Agricultural machinery | | | | + and instruments | 235,000 | 299,146 | 241,300 | 180,300 + Industrial machinery | | | | + and implements | 149,000 | 247,116 | 338,000 | 847,600 + Wire fencing | 506,000 | 976,490 | 721,000 | 793,700 + Manufactured iron | 403,000 | 619,749 | 737,000 | 470,000 + Portland cement | 103,000 | 237,437 | 347,000 | 479,600 + Tiles | 41,000 | 59,601 | 73,000 | 74,500 + Railway and tramway | | | | + material | 490,009 | 275,889 | 2,089,000 | 3,194,000 + General factory | | | | + material | 72,000 | 275,564 | 407,600 | 1,295,700 + |-------------+------------+------------+----------- + Total | $7,064,000 |$10,001,952 |$11,808,300 |$15,117,100 + -----------------------+-------------+------------+------------+----------- + + +PORTS TO WHICH URUGUAYAN WOOL WAS CHIEFLY EXPORTED DURING 1908 + + Bales. + Marseilles 94,418 + Hamburg and Bremen 28,003 + Dunkirk 21,901 + Ambères 17,926 + Havre 12,953 + Liverpool 7,003 + + +VALUES OF IMPORTS FROM FOREIGN COUNTRIES + + ----------------+-------------+------------+------------- + | Yearly | | + |average from | 1907. | Difference. + |1898 to 1902.| | + ----------------+-------------+------------+------------- + Great Britain | $6,447,764 | $11,572,152| + $5,124,388 + Germany | 2,932,965 | 6,079,498| + 3,146,533 + France | 2,290,174 | 3,924,069| + 1,633,885 + United States | 2,091,209 | 3,439,445| + 1,348,236 + Italy | 2,218,844 | 2,898,391| + 679,547 + Belgium | 1,456,469 | 2,688,520| + 1,232,051 + Argentina | 3,151,345 | 2,563,186| - 588,158 + Brazil | 1,518,800 | 1,743,731| + 224,931 + Spain | 1,837,603 | 1,725,198| - 112,405 + Holland | 3,625 | 233,968| + 230,343 + Paraguay | 145,431 | 187,989| + 42,558 + Australia | -- | 130,559| + 130,539 + Cuba | 105,932 | 121,040| + 15,108 + Chile | 106,608 | 108,342| + 1,734 + Portugal | 15,087 | 32,668| + 17,281 + Austria | 3,071 | 22,178| + 19,107 + |-------------+------------+------------- + Total | $24,324,927 | $37,470,615| +$13,145,688 + ----------------+-------------+------------+------------- + + +URUGUAYAN EXPORTS TO VARIOUS COUNTRIES + + --------------------+-------------+-------------+----------- + | Yearly | | + |average from | | + |1898 to 1902.| 1907. | 1908. + --------------------+-------------+-------------+----------- + Germany | $3,401,642 | $4,647,866 | $5,454,661 + England | 2,592,613 | 2,954,529 | 2,987,759 + Argentina | 5,194,663 | 7,295,195 | 8,143,029 + Australia | -- | 12,750 | 4,400 + Austria | -- | 116,880 | 528,568 + Belgium | 5,084,554 | 5,551,763 | 6,138,059 + Brazil | 6,908,427 | 2,759,863 | 3,467,283 + Cuba | 439,040 | 1,092,966 | 848,858 + Chile | 282,015 | 289,239 | 170,924 + Scotland | -- | 38,625 | 58,846 + Spain | 531,793 | 533,674 | 524,066 + United States | 1,886,372 | 1,603,330 | 2,336,201 + France | 5,137,192 | 6,441,631 | 7,699,927 + Italy | 663,097 | 1,155,704 | 1,310,811 + Holland | 34,977 | 11,910 | 6,071 + Paraguay | 192,024 | 9,343 | 21,618 + Peru | 106 | -- | -- + Porto Rico | -- | -- | 51,070 + Portugal | -- | 101,784 | 133,170 + Prussia | 18,911 | -- | 100,002 + Barbadoes | 816 | 330 | 1,570 + Canary Islands | 14,234 | 5,971 | 2,475 + Falkland Islands | 3,739 | 1,483 | 511 + Trinidad | 2,051 | 3,794 | 1,541 + South Africa | 2,760 | -- | 12,195 + Provisions for | | | + vessels | 164,400 | 293,502 | 291,150 + |-------------+-------------+----------- + Total | $31,555,422 | $34,912,072 |$40,296,347 + --------------------+-------------+-------------+----------- + + +VALUES OF GOODS HANDLED BY THE VARIOUS PORTS DURING 1909 + + --------------+-------------+------------ + | Imports. | Exports. + --------------+-------------+------------ + Montevideo | $34,251,069 | $32,685,267 + Paysandú | 924,112 | 2,933,884 + Salto | 571,371 | 2,000,038 + Fray Bentos | 272,535 | 2,538,870 + Colonia | 513,684 | 2,770,862 + Mercedes | 226,789 | 1,547,081 + Maldonado | 21,404 | -- + Rocha | 45,800 | -- + Cerro Largo | 155,000 | 780,000 + Various | 175,000 | 533,700 + |-------------+------------ + Total | $37,156,764 | $45,789,703 + --------------+-------------+------------ + + +PROPORTION OF CULTIVATED SOIL COMPARED WITH THE AREA OF DEPARTMENTS + + ---------------+-----------+------------+----------- + | | | Portion of + | Area in | Cultivated | Cultivated + Departments. |Kilometres.| Area | Area to + | | Hectares. | the whole. + ---------------+-----------+------------+----------- + Montevideo | 664 | 1,074 | 1·61 + Artigas | 11,378 | 1,321 | 0·11 + Canelones | 4,751 | 139,721 | 29·40 + Cerro Largo | 14,928 | 11,129 | 0·74 + Colonia | 5,681 | 107,815 | 18·98 + Durazno | 14,314 | 5,100 | 0·35 + Flores | 4,518 | 3,842 | 0·85 + Florida | 12,107 | 33,382 | 2·75 + Maldonado | 4,111 | 11,530 | 2·80 + Minas | 12,484 | 31,079 | 2·49 + Paysandú | 13,252 | 5,707 | 0·43 + Rio Negro | 8,470 | 1,727 | 0·20 + Rivera | 9,828 | 3,986 | 0·40 + Rocha | 11,088 | 7,662 | 0·69 + Salto | 12,603 | 2,202 | 0·17 + San José | 6,962 | 102,866 | 14·77 + Soriano | 9,223 | 21,487 | 2·33 + Tacuarembó | 21,015 | 2,385 | 0·11 + Treinta y Tres | 9,539 | 6,329 | 0·66 + |-----------+------------+----------- + Total | 186,929 | 500,347 | 2·67 + ---------------+-----------+------------+----------- + + +LIVE STOCK CENSUS OF THE REPUBLIC IN 1900, SHOWING THE AMOUNTS OWNED +BY URUGUAYAN AND FOREIGN PROPRIETORS + + -----------+---------+-------+----------+-------+-------+------+---------- + | Cattle. |Horses.| Sheep. | Mules.| Goats.| Pigs.| Total. + -----------+---------+-------+----------+-------+-------+------+---------- + Uruguayans |3,135,152|304,381|10,782,057| 8,952| 15,059|54,877|14,301,378 + Argentines | 126,796| 10,963| 347,271| 168| 219| 508| 485,925 + Brazilians |1,968,188|131,733| 2,370,920| 7,812| 2,522|10,755| 4,492,230 + Paraguayans| 609| 112| 4,887| -- | 4| 54| 5,656 + Chilians | 11,338| 140| 3,550| -- | -- | 13| 16,041 + Mexicans | 65| 13| -- | -- | 2| -- | 80 + North | | | | | | | + Americans| 6,990| 337| 5,989| -- | 2| 27| 13,345 + Spaniards | 823,226| 58,905| 2,769,364| 4,080| 1,276|15,351| 8,672,242 + Portuguese | 23,122| 1,434| 36,848| 43| 6| 159| 16,612 + French | 240,494| 17,223| 1,141,881| 564| 382| 2,339| 1,402,883 + English | 275,183| 15,055| 514,835| 410| 119| 257| 806,859 + German | 39,544| 3,488| 121,747| 90| 54| 297| 165,220 + Swiss | 15,033| 1,146| 23,181| 12| 12| 555| 39,939 + Italians | 158,310| 16,226| 479,122| 836| 771| 8,631| 663,896 + Austrians | 1,955| 203| 4,445| 21| -- | 89| 6,713 + Dutch | 25| 13| 550| -- | -- | -- | 586 + Danes | 15| 12| -- | 4| -- | 6| 37 + Belgians | 10| 3| -- | -- | -- | 5| 18 + Norwegians | 25| 8| 180| -- | -- | -- | 213 + Russians | 6| 4| -- | -- | -- | -- | 10 + Arabs | 2| 9| -- | -- | -- | -- | 11 + |---------+-------+----------+-------+-------+------+---------- + Total |6,827,428|561,408|18,618,717| 22,992| 20,428|93,923|26,134,896 + -----------+---------+-------+----------+-------+-------+------+---------- + + +THE DISTRIBUTION OF LIVE STOCK IN THE VARIOUS DEPARTMENTS + + ------------+---------+-------+----------+------+-------+-------+---------- + Departments.| Cattle. |Horses.| Sheep. |Mules.| Goats.| Pigs. | Total. + ------------+---------+-------+----------+------+-------+-------+---------- + Artigas | 514,328| 43,489| 791,969| 6,060| 1,296| 1,501| 1,358,643 + Salto | 614,806| 45,819| 1,076,878| 3,234| 1,622| 2,957| 1,746,316 + Paysandú | 686,159| 44,685| 1,071,382| 1,881| 330| 1,734| 1,806,171 + Rio Negro | 525,086| 22,346| 1,060,344| 769| 419| 934| 1,609,898 + Tacuarembó | 560,406| 38,468| 922,081| 1,683| 874| 4,406| 1,527,918 + Rivera | 292,704| 28,993| 207,236| 1,063| 983| 3,234| 534,213 + Treinta y | | | | | | | + Tres | 382,803| 29,160| 892,815| 384| 265| 4,158| 1,309,585 + Cerro Largo | 591,007| 30,999| 662,184| 629| 67| 5,247| 1,290,133 + Minas | 369,172| 34,074| 1,334,916| 290| 3,184| 6,314| 1,847,950 + Rocha | 336,426| 36,735| 1,257,495| 314| 918| 8,483| 1,640,371 + Maldinado | 121,176| 17,894| 695,833| 182| 1,629| 5,472| 842,186 + Durazno | 429,451| 31,762| 1,978,391| 950| 140| 2,217| 2,442,911 + Flores | 154,776| 16,719| 1,474,664| 154| 104| 1,346| 1,647,763 + San José | 142,130| 12,518| 482,436| 517| 158| 1,799| 639,558 + Florida | 338,012| 25,037| 1,654,940| 536| 186| 2,723| 2,021,434 + Soriano | 407,037| 35,968| 2,056,795| 688| 229| 1,170| 2,501,887 + Colonia | 225,475| 28,868| 785,697| 1,039| 422| 4,499| 1,043,209 + Canelones | 112,651| 20,808| 99,152| 917| 1,935| 29,355| 264,818 + |---------+-------+----------+------+-------+-------+---------- + Total |6,827,428|561,408|18,608,717|22,992| 20,428| 93,923|26,134,896 + ------------+---------+-------+----------+------+-------+-------+---------- + + +PRINCIPAL ARTICLES EXPORTED FROM URUGUAY TO THE UNITED KINGDOM IN 1909 + + Meat (chilled, frozen, extracts), &c. 732,125 + Wool 173,738 + Hides and skins (including sealskins, £8,440) 62,703 + Bones 10,089 + Tallow 76,688 + Wheat 20,054 + Maize 7,160 + Flax seed 26,721 + + +PRINCIPAL ARTICLES EXPORTED FROM THE UNITED KINGDOM TO URUGUAY IN 1909 + + Coal 699,260 + Coke 11,339 + Woollens, Manchester and Bradford goods 712,067 + Galvanised iron 141,184 + Drugs, &c. 70,460 + Machinery 337,304 + Hardware 26,614 + Glass and china 39,105 + Jute goods 63,209 + Cement 16,000 + Stationery 14,000 + Paints, &c. 19,140 + Metals (excluding iron and steel) 23,675 + Hats and millinery 11,335 + Woollen articles 29,737 + + +URUGUAY'S BUDGET. DISTRIBUTION OF EXPENDITURE AMONG THE VARIOUS +DEPARTMENTS + + ----------------------+---------------+---------+---------------+--------- + | Budget of | | Budget of | + | 1908-9. | | 1910-11. | + ----------------------+---------------+---------+---------------+--------- + |Dollars. Cents.| £ |Dollars. Cents.| £ + Legislature | 541,476 61 | 115,208| 558,864 33 | 118,907 + Presidency of the | | | | + Republic | 77,938 21 | 16,582| 76,471 40 | 16,270 + Ministry of Foreign | | | | + Affairs | 473,280 50 | 100,698| 534,898 37 | 113,808 + Ministry of Interior | 2,997,013 36 | 637,662| 3,412,250 88 | 726,011 + Ministry of Finance | 1,371,455 84 | 291,799| 1,523,842 57 | 324,222 + Industry, labour, and | | | | + public construction | 1,572,257 46 | 334,523| 2,308,793 75 | 491,232 + Ministry of Public | | | | + Works | 283,887 20 | 60,401| 374,321 91 | 79,643 + Ministry of War | | | | + and Marine | 3,057,377 67 | 650,506| 3,580,739 89 | 761,859 + Administration | | | | + of justice | 445,286 54 | 94,742| 323,353 80 | 68,800 + National obligations |10,255,357 35 |2,181,991|10,639,723 80 |2,263,771 + |---------------+---------+---------------+--------- + Total |21,075,330 74 |4,484,113|23,333,260 70 |4,964,523 + ----------------------+---------------+---------+---------------+--------- + + +SERVICES PROVIDED FOR BY SPECIAL REVENUES + $ +Municipal Budget } 1,520,000 +Montevideo } +Interior 930,000 +National Commission of Charity 1,850,000 +University, application of special revenue 140,000 +Port works, application of additional duty 1,400,000 +National Council of Hygiene 33,000 +Miscellaneous 1,200,000 + ---------- + Total 7,073,000 + + +PRINCIPAL SOURCES FROM WHICH THE REVENUES ARE DERIVED + + -------------------------------------+------------+---------- + | $ | £ + -------------------------------------+------------+---------- + Customs Revenue | 13,620,000 | 2,897,872 + Property tax-- | | + Montevideo | 1,090,000 | 231,915 + Provinces | 1,720,000 | 365,957 + Licensing taxes-- | | + Montevideo | 783,000 | 166,595 + Provinces | 571,000 | 121,489 + Profits of the Bank of the Republic | 770,000 | 163,829 + Internal taxes on home | | + manufactures--_i.e._, alcohol, | | + matches, beer, artificial wines, | | + tobacco, &c. | 1,408,000 | 299,574 + Stamps and stamped paper | 830,000 | 176,596 + Post and telegraphs | 570,000 | 121,276 + Consumption tax on imported produce | 380,000 | 80,851 + Consular fees | 233,000 | 47,449 + Lighthouse dues | 85,000 | 18,085 + -------------------------------------+------------+---------- + + +TABLE SHOWING THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE STATE BANK DURING THE YEARS +1897-1909 + + -----+----------+------------+---------+----------+---------+-------+--------- + | | Notes | | | |Reserve| + Year.| Cash. | in |Deposits.|Advances. |Capital. | Fund. |Dividend. + | |Circulation.| | | | | + -----+----------+------------+---------+----------+---------+-------+--------- + | $ | | $ | $ | $ | $ | + 1897 | 1,659,098| 892,430 | 524,982| 2,849,586|5,000,000| -- | 2·649 + 1898 | 3,095,343| 2,691,652 | 834,339| 3,418,435|5,020,303| 20,303| 2·762 + 1899 | 4,431,313| 4,551,419 |1,604,669| 4,527,312|5,037,633| 37,633| 3·273 + 1900 | 4,739.788| 5,010,388 |2,427,891| 5,936,920|5,058,243| 58,243| 4·030 + 1901 | 4,633,957| 5,223,569 |2,704,441| 6,353,506|5,083,713| 80,713| 5·504 + 1902 | 6,541,015| 6,008,603 |3,345,939| 7,012,434|5,118,692|118,692| 5·410 + 1903 | 7,616,593| 6,862,538 |4,111,762| 7,352,943|5,153,302|153,302| 5·596 + 1904 | 6,120,185| 5,256,811 |2,472,016| 5,460,727|5,223,118|223,118| 7·044 + 1905 | 9,382,287| 8,195,477 |4,109,257| 6,608,587|5,255,118|255,118| 7·107 + 1906 |10,339,651| 10,396,740 |4,730,672| 8,971,758|5,281,626|281,626| 6·736 + 1907 |11,362,879| 12,323,869 |5,032,657|12,483,812|6,326,600|326,600| 9·209 + 1908 |13,080,825| 13,773,633 |5,455,804|15,345,513|6,399,425|399,425| 12·754 + 1909 |17,598,920| 15,936,961 |8,001,301|16,223,624|6,857,901|501,446| 11·217 + -----+----------+------------+---------+----------+---------+-------+--------- + NOTE.--Rate of Exchange: $4.70 = £1. + + +The following is the balance-sheet of December 31, 1909: + +ASSETS. + + $ + Cash 20,036,564 + Advances 18,921,606 + Foreign correspondents 2,927,139 + Capital not realised 5,045,947 + Sundry stocks and discounts 940,007 + National savings bank 400,000 + Stocks, &c., for guarantees of judicial and + administrative deposits 842,671 + Properties 540,596 + Branches 4,657,167 + Stocks and shares deposited 22,798,736 + ---------- + Total 77,110,433 + + £ + Equivalent in sterling 16,406,475 + ---------- + + +LIABILITIES. + + $ + Authorised capital 12,000,000 + Judicial and administrative deposits 703,641 + Notes in circulation 16,692,413 + Deposit certificates and silver cheque + "conformes" 1,633,000 + Reserve Fund 597,599 + Deposits 11,000,423 + Supreme Government 6,047,270 + Dividends (payable to State) 769,221 + Branches 4,807,854 + Sundries 60,276 + Depositors of stocks and shares 22,798,736 + ----------- + Total 77,110,433 + + £ + Equivalent in sterling 16,406,475 + ---------- + + +CEREAL PRODUCTION IN TONS + + -----+---------+--------+-------+-------+---------+-------- + Year.| Wheat. |Linseed.| Oats. |Barley.|Birdseed.| Maize. + -----+---------+--------+-------+-------+---------+-------- + | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. | Tons. + | | | | | | + 1900 | 187,553 | 1,009 | 33 | 424 | 518 | 77,093 + 1901 | 99,719 | 2,313 | 68 | 438 | 709 | 141,647 + 1902 | 206,936 | 8,757 | 115 | 1,016 | 1,103 | 128,539 + 1903 | 142,611 | 20,767 | 149 | 658 | 323 | 134,335 + 1905 | 205,888 | 14,046 | 525 | 588 | 1,745 | 121,862 + 1906 | 124,344 | 10,782 | 543 | 786 | 1,908 | 81,956 + 1907 | 186,884 | 21,930 | 1,752 | 1,576 | 1,638 | 13,613 + 1908 | 202,208 | 18,372 | 3,467 | 1,889 | 223 | -- + 1909 | 233,910 | 13,259 | 6,710 | 3,072 | 119 | 169,464 + -----+---------+--------+-------+-------+---------+-------- + + +CEREAL HARVEST FOR THE YEAR 1908-9 + + ------------+------------+-----------+------------ + |Amount Sown.| Area |Total Yield. + | |Cultivated.| + ------------+------------+-----------+------------ + | Kilos. | Hectares. | Kilos. + | | | + Wheat | 18,915,529 | 276,787 | 233,910,034 + Linseed | 592,959 | 18,341 | 13,259,821 + Oats | 458,156 | 6,891 | 6,710,645 + Barley | 238,089 | 3,487 | 3,072,202 + Canary seed | 5,319 | 141 | 119,130 + Maize | 2,534,739 | 203,268 | 169,464,099 + ------------+------------+-----------+------------ + + +CABLE, TELEGRAPH, AND TELEPHONE SYSTEMS IN URUGUAY + +CABLES. + + MILES. + Western Telegraph Company 470 + River Plate Telegraph Company 180 + Telegraph and Telephone Company of the River Plate 205 + National Government cable 10 + ------ + Total 865 + + +TELEGRAPHS. + + MILES. + National Government Telegraphs 1,740 + Oriental Telegraph Company 1,030 + River Plate Telegraph Company 328 + Telegraph and Telephone Company of the River Plate 300 + ------ + Total 3,398 + + +TELEGRAPHS (RAILWAY SYSTEM). + + MILES. + Central Uruguay Railway Company 2,138 + Midland Railway Company 198 + Northern Railway Company 71 + North Western Railway Company 112 + Eastern Railway Company 32 + Local companies 39 + ------ + Total 2,590 + + +TELEPHONES. + + MILES. + Montevideo Telephone Company (British) 10,845 + The Co-operative Telephone Company (Uruguayan) 4,375 + National Government lines for police service 2,188 + ------ + Total 17,408 + + +SUMMARY + + MILES. + Cables (Telegraphs) 865 + Public service 3,398 + Railway service 2,590 + Telephones 17,408 + ------ + Total 24,261 + + +POSTAL SERVICE + +The Revenue from the Postal Services for the year 1909 amounts to +£132,307, and the expenditure as authorised by the Government +£106,085. + +[Illustration: URUGUAY +London: T. Fisher Unwin] + + + + +INDEX + + + A + + Aborigines (138-150); + various tribes, 138; + character of, 139; + ethics, 140; + marriage, 141; + warfare, 142; + weapons, 143; + burial, 143-4; + superstitions, 144-5; + question of cannibalism, 145-6; + introduction of horses to, 147; + hostility to whites, 147 + + Administration, 312-3. + + _Agnes C. Donohoe_, Canadian sealing-schooner, + seized, 295 + + Agricultural societies, 259 + + Agriculture (_See Estancias_, _Industries_, _Cereals_); + proportion of soil in cultivation, 331 + + Alfalfa, 205 + + Alvear, defeats Otorgues, 70; + deposed by Thomas, 72 + + Amethysts, 235, 289 + + Aguirre, President, 121 + + Arachanes Indians, 150 + + Architecture, 193-4, 201, 208, 216 + + Argentina, provinces, occupied by Lopes, 122 + + Argentine, the, relations with Uruguay, 30, 63-4. + See _Buenos Aires_, _Rosas_ + + Artigas (78-96), central figure of the Revolution, 57; + joins patriots, 58; + defeats Spaniards at Las Piedras, 59; + besieges Montevideo, 60; + superseded in command, 61; + heads exodus to Argentine, 63; + insists on Uruguayan autonomy, 64; + separates from Argentine, 65; + elected President, 67; + raises siege of Montevideo, is outlawed by Argentina, + but raises revolt in provinces, 68; + demands surrender of Montevideo, 69; + ruler of Uruguay, 71; + returns hostages to Thomas, 72; + defeated by Brazilians, 75; + declares war upon Buenos Aires, 75; + deserted by leaders, 76; + escapes to Paraguay, 77; + history of, 78-96; + character, 79-80; + early life, 81-3; + ruler of Uruguay, 88; + expels Spaniards, 89; + horrors committed in camp, 91; + simplicity of manners, 91-4 + + + B + + Banda Oriental, 27; + subject to Artigas, 90 + + Barley, 285 + + Bathing-places, 167 + + Batlle, President, 123, 126 + + Beef Trust of United States, 280-1; + attempt to capture South American refrigerating + industry, 282 + + Belgrano, makes treaty with Portuguese, 64 + + "Blancos," or Whites, the, a political clan, 32; + assassinate Flores, 123; + assassinate Borda, 125; + origin of term, 313, 314-5, 321-3 + + Bohanes Indians, 148 + + Borda, President, assassinated, 125 + + Brazil, relations with, 30-1; + invades Uruguay in 1817, 75; + annexes Uruguay, 77; + alliance with Uruguay against Rosas, 117; + sends troops to assist Flores, 120; + alliance with Uruguay in Paraguayan War, 122 + + British: capital, 276; + popularity of, 33; + enterprise, 296-7; + invade Uruguay and evacuate it, 55. + _See England._ + + Brown, Admiral, destroys Spanish fleet, 68; + destroys Uruguayan fleet, 114 + + Budget, the, 335 + + Buenos Aires, taken by British, 55; + Junta of, 56; + action of Government during revolution, 62, 64; + refuses to recognise Congress of Uruguay, 67; + evacuates Montevideo, 70, 71; + sends forces against Artigas which revolt and depose + Alvear, 72; + offers to acknowledge Uruguayan independence + in return for Transplatine provinces, 73 + + Bull-fighting, 133-4, 223-4 + + Burnett, Mr. Henry, British Vice-Consul, 203 + + Bustamente, President, 120 + + + C + + Cabildo, official, 73 + + Cabot founds San Sebastian, 38 + + Campo, the, 72, 114, 175-7, 137, 237-45 + + Canaries, immigrants from, 48-9, 53 + + Canelones, 265 + + _Caudillo_, severity of, 74 + + Carlos II. of Spain, surrenders Colonia to + Portugal, 42 + + Carlota, Queen of Portugal, 61 + + Casas, Padre de las, recommends introduction of negro + slaves, 44 + + Cattle, introduced by Hernandarias, 40; + superabundance of, 153, 247-8, 250, 254-264; + census, 332; + distribution of, 333 + + Cereals, 284-5 + + _Changadores_, or early buccaneers, 40 + + Charity, Commission of, 313 + + Charrúa Indians, kill de Solis, 37; + destroy S. Sebastian, 38; + attempt to sack Montevideo, 49; + practically exterminated, 110, 139-47 + + Cheese, 175 + + Chilled meat. See _Refrigerating Industry_ + + Cholera, 124 + + Civil War, 28; + after War of Independence, 108; + Rosas intervenes, 112; + the French intervene, 113. + _See Revolution_, _Revolutions_ + + Climate, 272 + + Clubs, 158-9 + + Colón, 166 + + Colonia, foundation of, 42; + in hands of Portuguese, 43; + captured by Spanish, 44; + given back to Portugal by Philip V., 44; + besieged by Salcedo, 49; + exchanged for Jesuit missions, 50; + again becomes Portuguese, is retaken, and again + falls to Portuguese, 51; + captured by Ceballos, 53; + siege of, during Revolution, 60 + + Colonia, department, 267 + + Colonia Suiza, 211-5 + + Colonies, 212-3, 220-244 + + "Colorados" or Reds, a political clan, 32; + formation of, 120; + origin of, 313, 314-5, 321-3 + + Communications, 296-308. _See Railways_, _Shipping_ + + "Conciliation Ministry," the, 125 + + Constitution of Uruguay, 109, 311 + + Coronilla, seal islands, 294 + + Corrales, goldfields, 287 + + Costume, 180 + + Cuestas, 125 + + Culta, besieges Montevideo, 65 + + Customs revenue, 336 + + Customs service, 83 + + + D + + Dairies, 214, 261 + + Darwin, discovers fulgurites at Maldonado, 203 + + Departments, 265; + budgets of, 335 + + Diamonds, 288 + + Diaz, General, revolt of, 119; + policy of, 120; + second revolt and execution, 121 + + Dolores, taken by the Thirty-Three, 101 + + Domestics, 180-1 + + Durazno, department, 266 + + + E + + Eden, 185 + + Education, 32, 165 + + Elio, appeals to Queen Carlota for help during siege + of Montevideo, 61, 88 + + England, intervenes during Rosas' invasion, 116; + exports to, 334; + exports from, 334. + _See British._ + + English colony, the, 159 + + Estancias, 246-53 + + Exports, 277, 329; + general, 330; + to England, 334 + + + F + + _Faeneros_, early trafficking in hides by, 40 + + Fauna of Uruguay, 273-5 + + Ferdinand VI. of Spain, cedes northern Uruguay and the + Missions to Portugal in return for Colonia, 50 + + Feuds, 137. + _See Politics_, _Revolutions_ + + Finance, a crisis, 124; + increased cost of living, 131-2; + English capital, 276; + imports and exports, 277; + the Budget, 335; + special revenue, 336; + principal sources of revenue, 336 + + Flores, Dictator, 120-1; + assassinated, 123 + + Florida, department, 205 + + Football, 133 + + Foreigners, position of, 32 + + France, blockades Buenos Aires, 113; + forms armistice with Rosas, 114; + intervenes during invasion by Rosas, 116 + + Francia, Dictator of Paraguay, 77 + + Fray Bentos, 229 + + Frigorifica Uruguaya, 263 + + Frozen Meat trade, 263, 280-2 + + Fulgurites, 203 + + + G + + Garay, Juan de, defeats Zapicán, 39 + + Garibaldi, as privateer, 114 + + Garro, de, Governor of Buenos Aires, expels Portuguese + from Colonia, 42; + removed from post and promoted, 43 + + Gauchos, 240-2, 251-3 + + Gems, 288-9 + + Giro, fourth President, 119 + + Gold, 287 + + Government, policy of, 35; + established by Lavalleja, 104 + + Guarani Indians, 149 + + Guenoa Indians, 149 + + + H + + Hares, 207 + + Herán, Padre, Jesuit, 49 + + Hernandarias, defeated by Charrúa Indians, 39; + ships cattle and horses to Colonia to breed in + wild state, 40 + + Hervidero, headquarters of Artigas, 90 + + Highways, 195-6 + + History, 37-127 + + Horses, introduced by Hernandarias, 40, 256, 258 + + Hotels, 159-60 + + + I + + Immigration, modern methods in use in eighteenth century, 48 + + Imports, 277; + commercial, 327; + industrial, 328; + value of, 329 + + Independence, War of, 28. + _See History_, _Revolutions_ + + Indians, Charrúas, 37; + become carnivorous and equestrians, 42; + campaign against, 43; + rising crushed, 50; + they resist treaty of 1750, 50. + _See Aborigines_ + + International troubles, 28 + + Irala orders Romero to settle Uruguay, 38 + + + J + + Jesuits, in Uruguay, 50; + expelled by Carlos III., 51 + + + K + + Kennedy, Mr. R. J., British Minister Plenipotentiary, 34 + + + L + + Landscape, of Uruguay, 173-5, 184-7, 197, 206-7, 222; + of the Campo, 238-45, 251 + + Latorre, dictator, 124 + + Lavalleja, Juan Antonio, liberator of Uruguay, 98; + head of the Thirty-Three, 99; + takes Dolores, 100-2; + besieges Montevideo with 100 men, 102; + sets up Government, 103; + General-in-Chief of Army of Liberation, 104; + deposes Junta, 105; + character as ruler, 108; + turns upon Rivera, 109-110; + enters Montevideo but is forced to retire; + appointed President, the appointment is refused by + Assembly, 110; + takes refuge in Brazil, 111; + supports Oribe, 112; + death of, 117 + + Law, 312 + + Lemco, 229, 283 + + Liebig. _See Lemco_ + + Livestock, census of, 255; + cattle census, 332; + distribution, 333; + + Lopes, Dictator of Paraguay, declares war upon Brazil, + Uruguay, and Argentina, 123 + + Lottery, 313 + + Luxury, Uruguayan free from common South American + habit, 133 + + + M + + Magellan, 38 + + Maldonado department, fulgurites in dunes of, 203, 270-1; + mines and mineral products of, 288 + + Manners and customs, 128-137 + + Marriage, laws of, 312 + + Meat, dried, 261-2, 278-9. + _See Tasajo_ + + Meat, frozen. _See Refrigerating_ + + Meat trade, the, 261-2, 278, 279, 280-2. + _See Beef Trust_ + + Mercedes, captured by Gauchos, 58, 205, 208-9; + port of, 210 + + Minas, department, 271 + + Minuanes, Indians, 150 + + Monte Caseros, battle of, 117 + + Montevideo, city of, 46, 48-9; + a Governor appointed, 50; + seat of Viceroy after the revolution of Buenos Aires, 56; + siege during revolution, 60, 62; + a fresh siege 64-5; + capitulation, 68; + occupied by Alvear, 70; + evacuated, 70; + entered by Otorgues, 71; + captured by Brazilians, 75; + besieged by the Thirty-Three, 103; + entered by provisional Government, 106; + in revolt, 110; + the Nine Years' Siege, 114-5; + revolution of 1851, 120; + seized by the Colorados, 121; + population of, 151; + description of, 152-60; + surroundings of, 161-2; + port works, 304 + + Montevideo, department, 271 + + Moreau, French adventurer, 45 + + Museum at Montevideo, 157 + + Mutton, despised, 156 + + + N + + National Assembly, confirms and then vetoes appointment + of Lavalleja, 111 + + Negroes, first introduced into Uruguay, 44, 243; + troops, 243; + treatment of, in slavery, 245 + + + O + + Oats, 285 + + Oribe, General, 108; + second President, 111; + deprives Rivera of command, 112; + resigns upon intervention of France, 113; + joins Rosas, 114, 120, 314 + + Ostentation, common South American failing, not found + in Uruguay, 133 + + Ostrich, the, 275-6 + + Otorgues, enters Montevideo, 71; + captured, 75 + + + P + + Palomas, seal islands, 295 + + Pan de Azucar, 201 + + Pando, agricultural centre, 197-8 + + Paraguay, 28; + appealed to during Revolution, 64; + the Paraguayan War, 122-3 + + Paysandú, centre of meat industry, 32, 58, 321-2 + + Paysandú, department, 268 + + Pelota, 223 + + Pereira, President, 120-1 + + Philip V. cedes Colonia to Portuguese, 44 + + Pines, 203 + + Piracy in eighteenth century, 45 + + Piria, Señor, 199-200, 202 + + Piriapolis, 197 + + Plata, La, River Plate, delineation of boundaries, + 34, 45 + + Police, 136-7 + + Politics, 311-23; + conduct of revolutions, 316-17 + + Portuguese, rivalry of, with Spain, 38; + founders of Colonia, 42; + attempt to obtain Uruguay, 46; + invade Rio Grande, 49; + trouble with, 50-55; + invade Uruguay during Revolution, 61; + again invade Uruguay, 73. + _See Brazil_ + + Posts, Telegraphs, Telephones, 340-1 + + Prado, the, 162 + + Privateering, 45; + Uruguayan privateers in European waters, 75; + Garibaldi, 114 + + Progress, 36 + + + R + + Race-meetings, 131 + + Railways, 176-80, 206-7, 297-308; + companies and stock, 302, 308 + + Ramirez, deserts and defeats Artigas, 76 + + Ranchos, primitive, 177, 211 + + Rats, in Montevideo, 155 + + Real de San Carlo, 223 + + Refrigerating industry, 263, 280-2 + + Republican Constitution, the, 312 + + Revenue, tables of, 335-6 + + Revolutions: the War of Independence commences at + Paysandú, 58; + Portuguese intervention, 64; + independence proclaimed, 71; + independence recognised after expulsion of the + Brazilians, 103; + revolution of 1853, 119; + military revolution of 1875, 124; + lesser revolutions, 311-23 + + Rhodesia, 283 + + Rio Negro, department, 267 + + Rivera, department, 269; + goldfields, 287-8 + + Rivera, General, joins the Thirty-Three, 102; + jealousy of Lavalleja, 104; + accused of treason and imprisoned, 105; + attacked by Lavalleja, 109; + elected President, 109; + escapes from Lavalleja's attempt at capture, 110; + chases Lavalleja into Brazil, 110; + deprived of rank by Oribe, 112; + returns to power assisted by French, 113; + attacked by Oribe and defeated, 114; + further defeat, 115; + appointed as Minister to Paraguay, 116; + return to power, 116; + death, 117 + + Rivera, town, 193 + + Rondeau, defeats Portuguese, 55; + at siege of Montevideo, 61, 65; + made Governor, 108, 314 + + Rosario, 53 + + Rosas, Dictator of Argentina, 110; + supports Lavalleja, 111-2; + invades Uruguay, 113; + armistice with French, 114; + nine years' siege of Montevideo, 114; + final defeat and flight, 117 + + + S + + _Saladeros_, dried meat factories, 261 + + Salto, department, 268 + + Salto, town, 234 + + San José, 207 + + San Juan, department, 266 + + San Juan, estancia, 248-9 + + Santa Ana, 193-4 + + Santa Lucia, 207 + + Santos, 125 + + Seal fisheries, 291-5 + + Sheep, 258 + + Shipping, 308-9 + + Sierra de Mal Abrigo, 207 + + Slaves, introduction of, 44, 243, 245. + _See Negroes_ + + Solis, Juan Dias de, discoverer of Uruguay, killed by + Indians, 37-8 + + Soriano, department, 267 + + Spain, turns attention to Uruguay, 38; + during Revolution, 38-68; + fall of Spanish power in Uruguay, 68; + fall of Spanish power in America, 72; + State Bank, 337-8 + + Steamer traffic. _See Shipping._ + + Suárez, 115 + + Swine, 258 + + Swiss Colony, 212 + + + T + + Tacuarembo, department, 269 + + Tacuarembo, town, 187 + + Tajes, President, 125 + + Tambores, 178-9 + + _Tasajo_, dried meat, 261-2, 278-9 + + Tea-Garden Restaurant, 166-7 + + Theatres, 131 + + Thomas, General Alvarez, deposes Alvear and becomes Director + of Buenos Aires, 72 + + Topaz, 235, 289 + + Trade, 277; + exports, 277, 329; + general, 330; + to England, 334; + table of increase, 326; + comparative trade in 1908, table, 327; + table of commercial imports, 327; + value of, 331 + + _Treinta y Tres_, the "Thirty-Three," set out from Buenos + Aires, 99; + capture Dolores, 101; + win over Rivera, 102; + besiege Montevideo, 102; + obtain general support, 103 + + Treinta y Tres, department, 270 + + Triumvirate, the abortive, 119 + + Tunnel, Bañada de Rocha, 191 + + + U + + Urquiza, General, defeats Rivera, 115; + defeats Rosas, 117 + + Uruguay: general description of, 27-36; + history of, 37-127; + manners and customs, 128-137; + continued warfare in the past, 29; + present conditions, 34; + War of Independence, 38, _et seq._; + independence proclaimed, 71; + evils of new regime, 71; + partitioned, 73; + invaded by Portuguese, 73; + annexed to Brazil, 77; + Lavalleja sets up National Government, 104; + independence recognised, 105; + alliance with France, 113; + at mercy of Rosas, 116; + alliance with Brazil and defeat of Rosas, 117; + warlike history of, 126; + life in, 138; + landscape, 174-5; + the Campo, 237-246; + departments of, 265 + + Uruguayans, heroism of, 29; + fighting qualities, 31; + character as troops, 94-5; + character of people, 128; + hospitality and democratic feeling, 115, 130-3; + physique of, 133; + honesty, 136; + sobriety, 137; + types of, 181-90; + a Paladin of the Campo, 190 + + + V + + Varela, Dictator, 124 + + Vidal, President, 124-5 + + Vigodet, 65 + + Villa del Cerro, 168 + + Viticulture, 289-91 + + + W + + War of Independence, 58. + _See Revolutions_ + + Water-stone, 235 + + Whale fishery, 54 + + Wheat, 278 + + Whitelocke, General, incapacity of, 55 + + Wild, A., dealer in gems, 289 + + Williman, President, 126 + + Wines, 289-291 + + Women, Uruguayan, 135, 180 + + + Y + + Yaros Indians, 148 + + + Z + + Zapicán, famous Indian chief, defeats Zarate, + is defeated and killed by J. de Garay, 39 + + Zarate, founds a settlement, and is defeated by Zapicán, 39 + + Zavala, captures Montevideo, 47 + + + The Gresham Press. + + UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED + + WOKING AND LONDON + + + + +_THE SOUTH AMERICAN SERIES._ + +Demy 8vo, Cloth. + + +VOL. I.--CHILE. + + +BY G. F. SCOTT ELLIOT, M.A., F.R.G.S., Author of "A NATURALIST IN +MID-AFRICA." With an Introduction by MARTIN HUME, a Map and 39 +Illustrations. + +"An exhaustive and interesting account, not only of the turbulent +history of this country, but of the present conditions and seeming +prospects, ... and the characters of the Chileno and English and +German colonists there."--_Westminster Gazette._ + + +VOL. II.--PERU. + + +By C. REGINALD ENOCK, F.R.G.S., Author of "THE ANDES AND THE AMAZON." +With an Introduction by MARTIN HUME, a Map and 72 Illustrations. + +"An important work.... The writer possesses a quick eye and a keen +intelligence, is many-sided in his interests, and on certain subjects +speaks as an expert. The volume deals fully with the development of +the country.... Illustrated by a large number of excellent +photographs."--_Times._ + + +VOL. III.--MEXICO. + + +By C. REGINALD ENOCK, F.R.G.S. With an Introduction by MARTIN HUME, a +Map and 64 full-page Illustrations. + +"Mr Enock unites to a terse and vivid literary style the commercial +instinct and trained observation of a shrewd man of affairs."--_Aberdeen +Free Press._ + +"Mr Enock transmutes the hard material of ancient chronicles into +gleaming romance; he describes scenery with a poet's skill. Full of +charm he makes his pages, alluring as a fairy tale, an epic stirring +and virile."--_Manchester City News._ + + +VOL. IV.--ARGENTINA. + + +By W. A. HIRST. With an Introduction by MARTIN HUME, a Map and 64 +Illustrations. + +"The best and most comprehensive of recent works on the greatest and +most progressive of the Republics of South America."--_Manchester +Guardian._ + +"In the treatment of both the main divisions of a complex theme, the +historical and descriptive, Mr Hirst shows judgment and skill that are +decidedly rare.... Mr Hirst's exceedingly able and interesting +book."--_Westminster Gazette._ + +"A very interesting and trustworthy survey of the present conditions +and prospects of the country."--_Times._ + + +VOL. V.--BRAZIL. + + +By PIERRE DENIS. With a Map and 36 Illustrations. + +"It is a mine of information, arranged with all the lucidity of a +Frenchman; and in one case, in the long chapter devoted to the +valorisation of coffee, the treatment deserves to be called +masterly."--_Globe._ + + +VOL. VI.--URUGUAY. + + +By W. H. KOEBEL. With a Map and 55 Illustrations. + + * * * * * + +Transcriber's note: + +Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). + +Small capital text has been replaced with all capitals. + +=M= indicates a bold letter "M". + +Variations in spelling, punctuation and hyphenation have been retained +except in obvious cases of typographical error. + +The cover for the eBook version of this book was created by the +transcriber and is placed in the public domain. + +The ad page has been moved from the beginning to the end of the book. + +The images on pages 38 and 192 were rearranged to match the list of +illustrations. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Uruguay, by W. H. Koebel + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42452 *** |