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diff --git a/42469-0.txt b/42469-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..03695d6 --- /dev/null +++ b/42469-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9052 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42469 *** + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 42469-h.htm or 42469-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42469/42469-h/42469-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42469/42469-h.zip) + + + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + https://archive.org/details/convenienthouses00gibs + + + + + +[Illustration: FIGURE A.] + + +CONVENIENT HOUSES + +With Fifty Plans for the Housekeeper +Architect and Housewife--A Journey +Through the House--Fifty Convenient +House Plans--Practical House Building +for the Owner--Business Points +in Building--How to Pay for a Home + +by + +LOUIS H. GIBSON + +Architect + + + + + + + +New York: +Thomas Y. Crowell & Co. + +Copyright, 1889, +By Louis H. Gibson. + +C. J. Peters & Son, +Typographers And Electrotypers, +145 High Street, Boston. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +When the reader is familiar with the writer's general purposes, it is +easier to understand the details of his work. This book is intended to +deal with houses in a housekeeping spirit. In doing this, the architect +has in mind convenience, stability, and that ideal of housekeepers, +beauty of surroundings. + +In carrying out this idea, the relation of architecture to good and +economical housekeeping is first considered. Following this division is +"A Journey through the House." It begins at the porch, moves through the +different rooms, and stops to consider the various details. This brings +about not only a consideration of the general arrangement of a house, +but such details as kitchens and pantries, plumbing, laundry, and +heating. + +These first two sections of the book--"The Architect and the Housewife," +and "A Journey through the House"--are, in a measure, educational. After +this, and in keeping with the general principles that have been set +forth, plans of fifty convenient houses are illustrated and described. +For the most part, they are houses that have been built. + +The next section is devoted to practical house-building. It is +constructed by taking a complete specification for everything which may +concern a dwelling-house, and ridding it, as far as possible, of all +technicalities; thus putting in form all practical house-building +questions for the benefit of the owner. + +Following this is the consideration of business points in building, +which sets forth methods of letting contracts with the view of securing +the best results without waste of money. + +The closing section is devoted to the getting of a home,--how to arrange +the monthly-payment schemes, building-association plans, and other +methods for getting a house on easy instalments. + + LOUIS H. GIBSON, ARCHITECT. + INDIANAPOLIS, IND., September, 1889. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + _THE ARCHITECT AND THE HOUSEWIFE._ + + CHAPTER I. + + THE HOUSEKEEPER AND THE ARCHITECT.--FLOOR-PLANS AS RELATED + TO GOOD HOUSEKEEPING.--LABOR-SAVING DEVICES.--ECONOMY + AND GOOD CONSTRUCTION.--COMPACT HOUSES NOT NECESSARILY + CROWDED.--WOOD-WORK THAT IS READILY CLEANED 11-15 + + CHAPTER II. + + HOUSEKEEPING OPERATIONS.--THE WORK OF THE HOUSEKEEPER.--THE + AVERAGE HOUSEWORK OF A WEEK.--THE ARCHITECT'S + LESSON THEREFROM 16-20 + + CHAPTER III. + + MODERN CONVENIENCES.--A LITTLE HISTORY.--PLANS THAT MAKE + EXTRA WORK.--MODERN CONVENIENCES ENUMERATED 21-25 + + CHAPTER IV. + + MODERN ARCHITECTS AND THE HOUSEKEEPER.--MISPLACED HOUSES.--OLD + COLONIAL POVERTY IN MODERN COLONIAL HOUSES.--AFFECTATION + IN DESIGN.--NATURAL DEVELOPMENT OF AMERICAN + ARCHITECTURE.--AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE AND AMERICAN + HOMES 26-28 + + + _A JOURNEY THROUGH THE HOUSE._ + + CHAPTER V. + + JOURNEY THROUGH THE HOUSE.--PORCH.--VESTIBULE.--HALL.--LONG + HALLS AND SQUARE HALLS.--THE HALL THAT IS A + ROOM.--RECEPTION-HALL.--PARLOR.--SITTING-ROOM.--DINING-ROOM 31-38 + + CHAPTER VI. + + KITCHENS.--THE KITCHEN A WORKSHOP.--WORK TO BE DONE IN + A KITCHEN.--A PLAN.--FITTINGS.--DISH-WASHING + CONVENIENCES.--SINK AND TABLES.--CHINA-CLOSET.--PANTRY. + --COMBINATION PANTRY.--PANTRY FITTINGS.--WORK IN A + PANTRY.--A DOUGH-BOARD.--FLOUR-BIN.--PANTRY + STORES.--CUPBOARD.--REFRIGERATOR ARRANGEMENTS.--PANTRY + UTENSILS.--A DRY-BOX.--SOAP-BOX.--VENTILATION OF + KITCHEN.--GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF KITCHEN PLANNING 39-50 + + CHAPTER VII. + + CELLAR.--FUEL DEPARTMENTS.--FURNACE CONVENIENCES.--COAL-BINS. + --CEMENT FLOORS.--LIGHT IN THE CELLAR.--A CELLAR-CLOSET. + --OUTSIDE CELLAR-DOOR 51-53 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + A LOW-COST LAUNDRY.--BLUE MONDAY.--BASEMENT LAUNDRY.--LOW-COST + CONVENIENCES.--INEXPENSIVE LAUNDRY FITTINGS.--HOT + AND COLD WATER ARRANGEMENTS.--A LABOR-SAVING + LAUNDRY.--A PLACE TO DO FRUIT-CANNING 54-58 + + CHAPTER IX. + + THE SECOND FLOOR.--STAIRWAYS.--THE COMBINATION STAIRWAY.--IDEAL + NUMBER OF BEDROOMS.--LARGE CLOSETS AND PLENTY + OF THEM.--A LINEN CLOSET.--PLACING OF GAS-FIXTURES.--SERVANT'S + ROOM.--BATH-ROOM.--AN ATTIC.--ATTIC CLOSETS.--ATTIC + ROOMS 59-63 + + CHAPTER X. + + PLUMBING.--IS PLUMBING ENTIRELY SAFE?--COMPLETENESS IN + PLUMBING APPARATUS.--LABOR-SAVING PLUMBING APPARATUS.--SEWER + CONNECTIONS.--SOIL PIPE.--A TRAP.--ACCIDENTS + TO TRAPS.--FREQUENT USE OF PLUMBING APPARATUS DESIRABLE + FOR SAFETY.--WATER-CLOSETS.--SIMPLICITY IN PLUMBING.--DRAIN + CONNECTIONS.--TO KEEP PLUMBING APPARATUS FROM + FREEZING.--CISTERN WATER SUPPLY.--GREASE SINK.--FLUSHING + OF DRAIN.--BATH-TUB 64-74 + + CHAPTER XI. + + HEAT AND VENTILATION.--COMMON HEATING ARRANGEMENTS.--PRESENT + METHODS GENERALLY UNSATISFACTORY.--IDEAL CONDITIONS.--PROPER + AMOUNT OF MOISTURE RARELY ATTAINED.--A + FURNACE DEFINED.--METHODS OF REACHING BEST RESULTS.--SUPPLY + OF PROPER AMOUNT OF MOISTURE.--REMOVAL OF + FOUL AIR.--SUPPLYING FRESH AIR WITH PROPER MOISTURE + FROM STOVES.--STEAM AND HOT-WATER HEATING.--DIRECT + AND INDIRECT RADIATION.--LOW-COST HEATING APPARATUS 75-82 + + CHAPTER XII. + + HEATING DEVICES AS WE FIND THEM.--FURNACE ESTIMATES.--COMBINATION + HOT AIR AND HOT WATER.--DISH-WARMING + ARRANGEMENTS.--HOW TO GET A GOOD HEATING APPARATUS 83-85 + + CHAPTER XIII. + + THE HOUSE AND ITS BEAUTY.--ARTISTIC SURROUNDINGS.--BEAUTY + MORE A MATTER OF INTELLIGENCE THAN MONEY.--VESTIBULE + DECORATIONS.--BEAUTY IN THE RECEPTION-HALL.--MANTELS + AND GRATES.--FRET-WORK AND PORTIÈRES.--SPINDLE WORK.--SIMPLE + FORMS OF GOOD DECORATION.--WOOD-CARVING.--DOOR + AND WINDOW CASINGS.--A CONSERVATORY.--STAINED + GLASS.--A CABINET ON THE MANTEL.--TINTED PLASTERING. + --FRESCOING.--SAFETY IN THE SELECTION OF COLORS.--AN + ATTRACTIVE SITTING-ROOM.--THE PARLOR.--A RECEPTION-ROOM. + --PARLOR HISTORY.--THE IDEAL PARLOR.--THE LIBRARY.--A + PLACE OF QUIET AND REST.--LIBRARY FURNISHINGS.--THE + DINING-ROOM.--SOCIAL RELATIONS OF THE DINING-ROOM. + --DINING-ROOM DECORATIONS.--CONSERVATORY AND DINING-ROOM. + --A WOOD CEILING.--BEAUTY IN BEDROOMS.--QUIET AND LIGHT 86-100 + + CHAPTER XIV. + + EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL DESIGN.--AN OLD TOPIC BEFORE THE + PEOPLE.--THE ARCHITECTURAL STUDENT'S DREAM.--A BEAUTIFUL + HOME THE HOUSEKEEPER'S AMBITION.--IT COSTS NO + MORE TO HAVE A HOUSE BEAUTIFUL THAN UGLY.--ARCHITECTURAL + EDUCATION.--CHARLES EASTLAKE'S BOOK.--VULGAR + ARCHITECTURAL REVIVALS.--THE GROWTH OF THE ARTISTIC + IDEA.--BEAUTY A MATTER OF REFINEMENT 101-105 + + + _PLANS OF FIFTY CONVENIENT HOUSES._ + + CHAPTER XV. + + EVOLUTION OF A HOUSE-PLAN.--RESPECTABLE DIMENSIONS FOR A + MODERATE PRICE.--SIX PLANS.--COSTS FROM $1,500 TO + $2,600 109-117 + + CHAPTER XVI. + + A SMALL POCKET-BOOK AND A LARGE IDEA.--AMBITION, DOLLARS, + AND A GOOD HOUSE.--THE GROWTH OF THE HOUSEKEEPER'S + IDEAS.--POINTS ABOUT THE HOUSE.--$2,900 118-125 + + CHAPTER XVII. + + "WE KNOW WHAT WE WANT."--A CONVENIENT PLAN.--MEETING + THE WANTS OF PEOPLE WHO BUILD 126-130 + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + TWO GOOD ROOMS IN FRONT.--THE COMBINATION PANTRY.--TOO + MUCH CELLAR A BURDEN.--$2,500 131-134 + + CHAPTER XIX. + + SITTING-ROOM AND PARLOR IN FRONT.--A CONNECTING VESTIBULE.--A + CENTRAL COMBINATION STAIRWAY.--GOOD ROOMS IN THE + ATTIC 135-138 + + CHAPTER XX. + + A COMPACT PLAN.--AN ISOLATED RECEPTION-ROOM.--COMBINATION + STAIRWAY.--DESCRIPTION OF THE FLOOR-PLAN.--CELLAR + ARRANGEMENT.--DINING-ROOM AND CONSERVATORY.--ANOTHER + PLAN 139-144 + + CHAPTER XXI. + + WHAT CAN BE DONE FOR $1,600?--THE CLOSET IN THE HALL.--A + SMALL, CONVENIENT KITCHEN.--CLOSETS IN THE BEDROOMS 145-151 + + CHAPTER XXII. + + OUTGROWTHS OF ONE IDEA.--EVERYTHING COUNTS AS A ROOM.--ONE + CHIMNEY.--CONVENIENCES OF A CONDENSED HOUSE.--COST + FROM $1,600 TO $2,800 152-156 + + CHAPTER XXIII. + + ONE-STORY PLANS.--DESCRIPTION OF FLOOR-PLANS.--BATH-ROOM + NEXT TO KITCHEN FLUE.--KITCHEN, PORCH, AND PANTRY.--THE + EXTERIOR.--ENLARGEMENTS ON THIS PLAN.--OTHER ONE-STORY + HOUSES 157-163 + + CHAPTER XXIV. + + SIDE-HALL PLANS.--PLANS WITH BEDROOM ON FIRST FLOOR 164-170 + + CHAPTER XXV. + + MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTION.--SHORT DESCRIPTIONS OF ELEVEN + HOUSE-PLANS.--VARYING COSTS.--SQUARE PLANS.--ONE-CHIMNEY + PLANS.--REAR AND SIDE HALL 171-181 + + CHAPTER XXVI. + + EIGHT PLANS.--EACH SUITED TO FAMILY REQUIREMENTS.--DOUBLE + HOUSES.--AN ELABORATE FLOOR-PLAN.--A SHINGLE HOUSE.--A + BRICK HOUSE 182-193 + + + _PRACTICAL HOUSE-BUILDING._ + + CHAPTER XXVII. + + PRACTICAL POINTS.--WATER.--LOCATION OF HOUSE ON LOT. + --DRAINING THE CELLAR.--MASON WORK.--FOUNDATIONS.--WALKS. + --PIERS.--FLUES.--CISTERNS.--DAMP COURSE 197-200 + + CHAPTER XXVIII. + + BRICK FOUNDATIONS.--LAYING BRICK.--COLORED MORTARS.--COLORED + BRICKS.--BRICK VENEERING.--HOT-AIR FLUES.--DETAILS + OF BRICK CONSTRUCTION.--CHIMNEYS AND FLUES.--HOLLOW + WALLS.--CELLAR.--ASH-PITS.--GRATES 201-206 + + CHAPTER XXIX. + + STONE MASONRY.--CUT STONE.--TERRA COTTA.--PRIVY VAULTS. + --CISTERNS.--FILTERS FOR CISTERNS.--BRICK PAVEMENTS.--CEMENT + PAVEMENTS 207-212 + + CHAPTER XXX. + + CARPENTER-WORK.--FRAMING.--SIZE OF TIMBERS.--HEIGHT OF + STORIES.--JOIST.--STUD WALLS.--OUTSIDE SHEATHING. + --BUILDING-PAPER.--ROOFS.--OUTSIDE FINISH.--OUTSIDE + SHINGLE WALLS.--OUTSIDE CASINGS.--WINDOWS WITH BOX + FRAMES.--HINGED OR PIVOTED WINDOWS.--OUTSIDE SHUTTERS. + --PORCHES.--LATTICE PORCHES 213-221 + + CHAPTER XXXI. + + INSIDE WOOD-WORK.--FLOORS.--SOFT AND HARD WOOD FLOORS. + --TABULATED STATEMENT OF INSIDE FINISH.--DIFFERENT + KINDS OF WOOD.--DOORS AND FRAMES.--FLY SCREENS.--INSIDE + CASINGS.--WAINSCOTING.--INSIDE SHUTTERS.--WOOD-WORK + FOR PLUMBING.--KITCHEN SINK AND FITTINGS.--KITCHEN + TABLES.--CELLAR-SINK FITTINGS.--WOOD-WORK FOR + BATH-TUB.--WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--TANK.--PICTURE + MOULDING.--CLOSET FITTINGS.--BROOM-RACK.--CEDAR-CLOSET. + --DRY-BOX.--CLOCK SHELF.--CHINA-ROOM FITTINGS.--PANTRY + FITTINGS.--STAIRWAYS 222-235 + + CHAPTER XXXII. + + PLASTERING.--GRAY FINISH.--WHITE HARD FINISH.--BACK + PLASTERING.--GAS-PIPING.--TIN WORK.--GUTTERS.--VALLEYS. + --DOWN SPOUTS.--GALVANIZED IRON-WORK.--HOT-AIR PIPES. + --THIMBLES.--PAINTING.--STAINING.--OIL FINISHING.--INTERIOR + STAINING.--FLOOR FINISH.--GLAZING.--PLATE-GLASS.--BEVELLED + GLASS.--CATHEDRAL GLASS.--HARDWARE 236-246 + + CHAPTER XXXIII. + + PRACTICAL PLUMBING.--WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBER.--EXCAVATING + FOR PLUMBER.--WATER DISTRIBUTION.--OUTSIDE FIXTURES. + --HYDRANTS.--STREET-WASHERS.--SOFT-WATER SUPPLY.--HOT-WATER + SUPPLY.--SOIL PIPE.--INSIDE FIXTURES.--KITCHEN + SINK.--CELLAR SINK 247-254 + + CHAPTER XXXIV. + + PLUMBING WORK CONTINUED.--BATH-TUBS.--BATH-SPRINKLERS. + --FOOT-TUBS.--SAFES.--WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--LAUNDRY + FITTINGS.--SET TUBS.--OUTSIDE DRAINS.--GREASE + SINKS.--NICKEL FITTINGS 255-263 + + CHAPTER XXXV. + + COST OF A HOUSE.--SCHEDULES OF COSTS.--WHAT GOES INTO A + HOUSE.--SCHEDULE "B."--COST DETAILS 264-269 + + CHAPTER XXXVI. + + VARYING BUILDING VALUES.--COST OF APPURTENANCES.--PRICES + OF LABOR AND MATERIAL ON WHICH ESTIMATES ARE BASED. 270-274 + + + _BUSINESS POINTS IN BUILDING._ + + CHAPTER XXXVII. + + LOW-COST HOUSES.--METHODS OF MAKING CONTRACTS.--ARCHITECTS' + ESTIMATES.--BUILDING BY THE DAY.--THE SAFEST PLAN.--GUARDING + AGAINST LIENS 277-287 + + + _HOW TO SECURE A HOME._ + + CHAPTER XXXVIII. + + MONTHLY PAYMENTS.--CALCULATIONS ON A LONG-TIME PLAN.--PURCHASE + ON A RENTAL BASIS.--HOW IT MAY BE WORKED + OUT 291-294 + + CHAPTER XXXIX. + + BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS.--WHY DIVIDENDS ARE LARGE AND INTEREST + LOW.--BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS AND SAVINGS BANKS.--ASSOCIATION + SECURITIES.--BUILDING-ASSOCIATION METHODS.--DIFFERENT + PLANS.--BORROWING FROM A BUILDING ASSOCIATION.--A + BUILDING-ASSOCIATION REPORT 295-311 + + CHAPTER XL. + + PURCHASE OF A LOT.--THE BEST THE CHEAPEST.--A GOOD LOT + AS A BASIS OF SECURITY.--THE BASIS OF VALUE IS THE + RENTAL 312-316 + + + + +THE ARCHITECT AND THE HOUSEWIFE. + + + + +CONVENIENT HOUSES. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + THE HOUSEKEEPER AND THE ARCHITECT.--FLOOR-PLANS AS RELATED TO GOOD + HOUSEKEEPING.--LABOR-SAVING DEVICES.--ECONOMY AND GOOD + CONSTRUCTION.--COMPACT HOUSES NOT NECESSARILY CROWDED.--WOOD-WORK + THAT IS READILY CLEANED. + + +There is a definite relation between the work of the housekeeper and +that of the architect. This is the text of this book. It is a part of +the business of the architect to do what he can to make housekeeping +easy. He can do a great deal. He should understand the principles and +practice of good housekeeping. This knowledge is something which cannot +be derived from the architectural schools or offices; it must come from +a home. The public press of the country has had a great deal to say +about the artistic qualities of domestic architecture, a great deal to +say about house decoration, and, altogether, has furnished much valuable +matter. Little, however, has been said as to the relation of +architecture to good housekeeping. The artistic element should not be +neglected. There must also be considered the question of convenient +arrangement, economy and ease, for the housekeeper. + +Washing dishes is disagreeable work, but the architect can do his part +toward making it easier. If we take a conglomerate mass of china, +knives, forks, and spoons, pots, pans, and kettles, and bring them +together on one small kitchen table, which has a dish-pan on one end and +a wooden water-bucket at the back, with a scarcity of everything to +facilitate the progress of the work, we have a condition quite different +from that wherein there is a roomy sink with a table on each side of it, +and plenty of hot and cold water above. An architect may plan a kitchen +so that all of these conveniences are possible. He may plan it so they +are impossible. + +The floor-plan of a house has a definite relation to house keeping +requirements, which is not fully appreciated. The difference between a +good floor-plan and a poor one may make the difference of three or four +tons of coal in the heating of a house during the winter. It may +influence the keeping of a servant, the wages to be paid, or may control +the necessity for one or more than one. It makes more difference to a +man who lives in a house that costs two thousand dollars or three +thousand dollars, as to whether he burns seven or ten tons of coal in +warming it, than it does to the man who lives in a ten-thousand-dollar +or twelve-thousand-dollar house as to whether he burns fourteen or +twenty tons. The cost of fuel is of more importance to a man of moderate +means than to one of wealth. Then in the matter of service: it is +difficult to keep a good servant in a bad kitchen, or in a badly planned +house where there is a vast amount of sweeping and other work to be done +every day. Those who plan factories and mills arrange them with +reference to the saving of labor. The idea in saving labor is to save +money. + +One can build a better house for a given sum of money at this time than +ever before. The real reason for this is to be found outside the fact +that material and labor are cheaper now than they have been in the past. +It is because of the thought that is put into the planning and arranging +of dwellings. It is the thought that saves the money. It adds external +and internal attractiveness, convenience, labor-saving devices, and +arrangements. Thought helps to make housekeeping easier. + +Economical housekeeping can be most readily carried on in a compact +house. To say that a house is compact does not necessarily imply that it +is crowded, or that any of the conditions of comfort are neglected. If +we avoid waste space, such as is frequently assigned to large halls and +passages, we merely take away something that is not needed. + +It frequently happens that a man and his wife go through life with the +hope of building a better house "some day." They are economical; they +live carefully; they live in a small house; they are crowded. At last, +by dint of hard work and careful management, enough money is accumulated +to build the new home. This is the great event which has been thought +about for so many years. + +The idea in building this house is invariably to get something as +different from the old house as possible. It was square; the new +building must be irregular. It had no front hall; the new house must +have a large one. There were no grates in any of the rooms; in the new +house there must be one in each. In the old building the rooms were very +small; in the new house they must be very large. There was no porch +before; now there must be one running across the front and along one +side of the house. Altogether, the idea of the old house and that of the +new are in direct opposition to each other. In one instance they were +crowded; in the other they have plenty of room. There can be no doubt +about the abundance of room. + +The building is finished; they move into it. Almost the first person to +leave it is the servant whom they had in the old house. She sees the +amount of work which she will have to do. It was easy enough to sweep +the old house, with its small, compact plan. Housekeeping was +relatively a small matter; but with the habits of economy, which +rendered the new home possible, they will not employ additional help. +The work which is left over by the servant falls to the mistress. +Strange as it may appear under such circumstances, it takes the mistress +a long time to find the cause of the trouble. It is the house. It was +planned with an entire disregard for the work which was to be done. It +had not been thought of. The idea was merely to get something which was +different from the disagreeable features of the old home. They thought +that everything would be easier and pleasanter and more agreeable in +every way. The only trouble with the old home was that they were too +much crowded. In the new they are not, but have an impossible amount of +work to do every day. The difference between what they wish to do and +what is done, is represented by fretfulness in addition to the natural +weariness at the end of the day. + +What has this to do with architecture and economical house-building? +Simply this. The house which is economically planned is economical as to +money, carpets, sweeping, and strength. The architect may do a great +deal for housekeepers by keeping this thought in mind. + +To recur to the idea of economical house-building in a direct sense, it +may be borne in mind that economy and good construction go hand in hand; +that none of the conditions of permanency are sacrificed for the sake of +cheapness. Of two houses which cost the same, one may be far more +convenient and roomy by an avoidance of waste space and unnecessary +material. Evidently one flue-stack will cost less than four. Therefore, +if a house can be constructed which has only one flue-stack, it will +cost less than one which has four; but the demands of the housekeeper, +and those who live in the house, are that the one stack afford the +conveniences of four. People do not like compromises in house-building, +especially when they are building a home. The compromises come easier +when one is planning property for rental. Evidently a house in which +one-fifth of the floor space is given up to halls is more expensive than +one which contains a smaller proportion of such space. According as one +is able to diminish the amount of passage room, and yet meet all of the +conditions of good and economical house-keeping, he can reduce the cost +of the house as to its building, its furnishing, and the amount of labor +required in caring for it. Thus economy in construction, and convenience +and ease in general housekeeping movements, go hand in hand. Parallel +illustrations might be carried forward, so as to include each detail of +the house. + +The architect may do a great deal for the housekeeper by making his +mouldings and interior wood-work so that they will not catch dust, and +can be readily cleaned. Some of our friends, who have studied the +artistic qualities of house-building to the exclusion of all other +considerations, will say that a regard for housekeeping requirements, in +the matter of interior decorations and construction, is placing too +great a limit upon their work. They will say that beauty and general +artistic qualities are not always consonant with the means which will +make easy housekeeping,--that they are limited by such considerations. +This need not be so; it is simply a question of ingenuity and +thoughtfulness. One may be careless of utility, and make very beautiful +things. Another may be thoughtful and careful as to housekeeping +requirements, and design something quite as beautiful and attractive as +the former. + +In the above statements will be found the guiding principles which +affect all of the work of this book. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + HOUSEKEEPING OPERATIONS.--THE WORK OF THE HOUSEKEEPER.--THE AVERAGE + HOUSEWORK OF A WEEK.--THE ARCHITECT'S LESSON THEREFROM. + + +With the architect a house has been too often considered as something to +be looked at. No one is disposed to criticise an architect for making +houses pretty and attractive. It is true, however, that many houses are +nothing more than pretty; they are not convenient. They are not built +with a regard to the requirements of housekeeping. A lady once said to +the writer, that an architect would never live up to his opportunities +until he had associated himself with a housekeeper, who would be strong +enough, in her control over him, to see that the housekeeping conditions +and conveniences were kept constantly in mind. + +In order fully to reach the housekeeping idea, it will be convenient to +consider in detail what is meant by housekeeping. Primarily, a house is +a place in which to eat and sleep. The present requirements of comfort +and luxury suggest that all should not eat and sleep in the same room. +Originally this was the case. The primitive man needed only a hut or a +cave, or the protection of a rude shed. Later on, he was satisfied with +a hut with one or two rooms. If the weather was cold, the occupants +would huddle around the fire, and eat and sleep without regard to other +surroundings. A bath in cold weather was unnecessary. During the summer +this was regarded more as a matter of recreation than of necessity. A +neighboring stream served the purpose of more modern arrangements. +Housekeeping operations under such conditions were light indeed. + +There are many homes of this kind in America to-day. If we take the case +of our Indians, we find that the squaws have time for much else than the +absolute duties of camp-life and the care of children. There is much +other labor which falls to their lot, house-work being regarded, as it +is, insignificant. This is one extreme. There are various gradations +which come with the instincts of a higher civilization. Education, and +other conditions which go with it, increase housekeeping requirements, +and thus far have not furnished to the majority compensating conditions +in labor-saving devices. At the present time, the natural and affected +requirements of housekeeping make the life of many a woman one of the +extremest drudgery and hardship. Her condition is almost that of a +slave; and this at a time when she is surrounded by many of the elements +of a higher civilization. Her children and those around her frequently +live under the shadow of her uncomfortable condition. The Indian's home, +in the rest and peace which it affords, is often preferable. This +condition is brought about by the increasing requirements upon the +housekeeper, without the presence of other compensating conditions. + +Assuming that an architect may do something to make the care of a house +lighter, it remains to call attention to the modern requirements of a +housekeeper, with a view of simplifying her work. Let us watch her work +for a week; we will begin on Monday morning during the month of January, +and assume that there is one servant in the house to help,--bearing in +mind, at the same time, that it often happens that the work which is +here outlined is done by the housekeeper herself, with possibly only the +help of a wash-woman. First, the house is to be warmed, the kitchen fire +to be kindled, the living-rooms to be swept and dusted, the washing to +be started, the children to be dressed, breakfast to be cooked and put +on the table, and, in many cases, all of this done before seven o'clock. +The serving of breakfast is no small task to the housekeeper. The coffee +is to be poured, food prepared for the children, and many other things +done which no man can specify. As soon as breakfast is over the men are +out of the house, but not usually before making more than one demand +upon the time of the housekeeper. Then the dishes are to be washed, and +the children made ready and started to school. Next, the grocery and +butcher supplies must be cared for. Possibly they are ordered from the +boy who calls at the door. In some instances a trip for this purpose is +required. Next, the dining-room must be arranged, the dishes put in +place, the chamber-work attended to, beds made, children's things put +away, sweeping done, slops disposed of, fires looked after. Some time or +in some way the clothes worn by the children on Sunday must be +especially looked after, stitches taken, a little darn here and there, +and then put away. During this time there may be the demands of one or +more babies to be met. In this there is no compromise. + +With the completion of other work dinner time is approaching, for, with +the majority, this is a noon meal. The cooking must be done, and yet +nothing else must be allowed to lag. The children in their confusion are +home from school. Then dinner. Every one is in a hurry to get away. The +children are sure they are going to be late. There is more work for them +and the men, and then they are gone. Dinner dishes are washed, and the +laundry work continues. The afternoon is little different from the +morning; there is a little less rush and confusion, but a continuance of +regular work. Before supper the evening supply of fuel must be provided. +In the mean time the children are home from school with their demands. +Now supper must be in mind. Where there are children in the house, this +is one of the most trying times of the day. They are tired, hungry, and +sleepy. Supper is over. The children go to bed at intervals during the +evening. The men have a place by the fire. The housekeeper often feels +it incumbent upon her to mend, darn, or sew, if no heavier work presents +itself. + +Tuesday morning calls for a repetition of the former day's work, with +ironing substituted for washing. There is the carrying-out of ashes and +the bringing-in of coal, and the same routine during the day. On the +part of the housekeeper regular sewing-work is taken up as opportunity +presents, and possibly calls are made or received. Wednesday, the same. +Thursday, the servant, if one is kept, is out for the afternoon. Other +regular work must progress. Compromises are not thought of. Friday is +general sweeping-day, in which everything is thoroughly gone over. The +housekeeper must find time to go down street one or more times during +the week, for the purpose of doing necessary shopping. Saturday brings +its scrubbing and cleaning. During the week must come the +window-washing, cleaning of silver, baking, and many things besides. + +Sunday is often the hardest day of all; the children require especial +care. There is church in the morning, Sunday school in the afternoon, +and, in many cases, church at night. In the mean while the children are +on hand all the time. Where is the man who will say that his business +life is as exacting or as harassing as the work which is here outlined? + +In the pages which follow it is the intention to bear the housekeeper +and her requirements in mind, and to suggest what is properly due her in +the way of labor-saving devices, with a view to facilitate the manifold +operations of housekeeping. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + MODERN CONVENIENCES.--A LITTLE HISTORY.--PLANS THAT MAKE EXTRA + WORK.--MODERN CONVENIENCES ENUMERATED. + + +Most of the conveniences of housekeeping are modern. It is only within +the past few years that the demands of the housekeeper for helps or aids +in making her work easier were thought worth considering. Even now we +occasionally meet men who think that anything that was good enough for +their mothers is good enough for their wives. We have in mind a farmer +who, during fifteen years, purchased three large farms. He buried a wife +for every farm. Their death was the result of more than slavish work. +The disposition which leads in this direction often continues after the +time when economy does not demand close living. + +The man who moves west to a new country cannot pay for many of the +modern conveniences. The demand for them is not great. Such a man +usually builds a house of two or three rooms. The family cook and eat in +the kitchen; they sit there between meals. The other rooms are for beds. +There is not a great deal of house-work to be done in a house of this +kind. The trouble comes when the pioneer becomes wealthier, and builds a +large house "in town" or on the farm. Possibly his wife or daughters do +the work as they did in the smaller house. If not, it is done by one +servant. The work in this house is a great deal harder. There is a great +deal more of it than there was in the two or three room house, which was +built during their earlier life. In the former house, if they had +coffee, it was poured from the pot in which it was made directly into +the cups which were on the table. The meat was taken from the skillet in +which it was cooked and put into the plates of those who ate it. If they +had pancakes, the wife would sit with her back near the stove, where she +could easily reach the griddle to grease it and turn the cakes while she +was eating her meal. There was no formal dessert. The pie was eaten from +the same plates as the rest of the food. There were no napkins; often, +no tablecloth. + +It did not take long to wash the dishes after a meal of this kind--there +were not many of them. In from fifteen to twenty-five minutes after the +meal was over, the wife could be seen sitting by the kitchen stove, +sewing or knitting. The pans and the kettles were out of the way, and +the kitchen was turned into a sitting-room. If the weather was cold, the +door into the bedroom was open; the whole house was warm and +comfortable. Wood was plenty and cheap. + +This woman's troubles began when her husband, by dint of hard work and +close economy, found himself in a position to gratify his pride in his +accumulated wealth by building a new house. It was a big white house +with green blinds. The stories were twelve or thirteen feet high; a +large hall ran through the centre; the kitchen had nothing in it but +doors and windows and a stove-hole; there was no sink, no conveniences +of any kind. They now had a separate dining and sitting room, and an +awful parlor with brussels carpet on it, which had red and green flowers +all over it. The bedrooms were upstairs. They were all large; wood-work +painted white. In the winter they were cold. The old habits of economy +which made this house possible had so fixed themselves upon the +occupants that they would not build a fire in the bedrooms. They said +that they "didn't think it healthy to sleep in a warm room." + +People go to see Mrs. Green in her new house. They go through and look +at it, and say, "Oh, how nice." But they find a tired woman. She doesn't +sit down to sew or knit in a few minutes after the meal is over, as she +used to. She is at work all the time. The children must have clothes to +fit the house. There is more sweeping and dusting to do; there are more +dishes to wash; there is more of everything to do. Still, she came into +the new house expecting to find things different and easier than they +were before. + +The modern conveniences are those arrangements and appliances which make +it possible for people to live comfortably in a larger house, without +seriously increasing the cares which they had in a smaller one. In the +old house of two or three rooms the mother would bathe the children once +a week in a tub by the kitchen fire. The tub would be dragged out the +door, which was not very high above the ground, and the water emptied +into the yard. In the new house it is different. The water is carried +from the pump in the back yard, and from the kitchen stove, upstairs +into one of the rooms. Then it has to be carried down again, emptied +into the alley or the yard. The living habits are all changed without +the compensating conveniences which naturally belong to them. It is +probable that Mrs. Green keeps a "girl," but even then she has +infinitely more work to do than ever belonged to the old home. She +cannot understand it. She has a new house and a girl, and yet she is +always tired. + +Most of the houses in the newer cities and towns are, in a measure, +similar to this. Nearly every one attempts to live up to the mark set by +those who have all of the appliances of modern housekeeping. Coal and +water have to be carried all over the house. Slops and ashes have to be +carried downstairs and out of the building. + +By attracting attention to the inconveniences of housekeeping, we may +see and understand the full meaning of the term "modern conveniences." +There is a natural call for dish-washing arrangements to take the place +of the square table, with the dish-pan, the tea-kettle, and the +water-bucket. In its place, we have at one side of the kitchen, a sink, +with cocks for hot and cold water immediately over it. The tables and +drain-board are arranged to simplify the operations of dish-washing. The +water, instead of being carried to the yard or alley, finds its way +naturally into the drain through the sink. Modern laundry arrangements +make it unnecessary to carry great tubs of water outside, or to delay +wash-day on account of the weather, or to bring in the frozen clothes +during the cold winter days. The bath-room, with the tub, the +water-closet, and the wash-stand, is on the second floor. This saves a +great deal of work. The water does not have to be carried upstairs nor +the slops down. There is hot and cold water within easy reach of all the +rooms. Often it happens that there are stationary wash-stands in the +various bedrooms, though this is only usual in the most expensive +houses. + +The amount of work which a furnace saves is not readily estimated. It +also saves money. Others of the modern conveniences are "places to put +things;" large closets in the bedrooms, well supplied with drawers, +shelves, and hooks; a general closet on the upper floor, which is +accessible from all of the rooms, for bedding and other articles of +common use; a ventilated closet in the bath-room, in which soiled linen +may be put without contaminating the atmosphere. There should be a +closet or place on the second floor for brooms, dust-pans, and dusters. +Where there is no particular place for these articles, the housekeeper +or the servant has to use time in searching, or in going up and down +stairs. Anything which saves labor may be regarded as a modern +convenience. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + MODERN ARCHITECTS AND THE HOUSEKEEPER.--MISPLACED HOUSES.--OLD + COLONIAL POVERTY IN MODERN COLONIAL HOUSES.--AFFECTATION IN + DESIGN.--NATURAL DEVELOPMENT OF AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE.--AMERICAN + ARCHITECTURE AND AMERICAN HOMES. + + +No one ever heard of the matter of house-planning being discussed in a +convention of architects. Their reports will show that a great many +subjects are handled, but none so near home as this. Sometimes there is +an effort to discover that America has a style of architecture peculiar +to itself. When such a thing becomes true, the effort to find it will +not be necessary. An American architecture will have its growth in +American necessities, and not through the blind copying of foreign +styles and architecture. Nor to have an American style does it +necessarily mean that we should ignore foreign precedent. It means that +we should consider foreign architecture intelligently. Everything that +is good should be adopted, no matter whence it comes. Those of us who +see what is going on in the architectural world frequently notice +English houses designed and built for those who live in the cold +Northwest. In many of them the broad, English casement windows and +general style of architecture, which is suited to the gloomy light and +the mild temperature of Great Britain, is placed in the bright, cold +climate of the Northwest. Nothing could be more out of place; it is an +affectation, an exhibition of bad taste and poor sense. The cold +Northwest, with its bright, clear atmosphere, presents its own +architectural conditions. The work of blind copyists, those who have so +strong a regard for precedent, is ridiculous. In one of the Eastern +magazines there was an illustration showing what purported to be an old +colonial cottage, situated possibly at Newport. The architect had copied +the old colonial details, the old colonial forms, which were very nice, +but he had also copied an idea which had its outgrowth in extreme +poverty. He had placed a rain barrel at the side of the house, and had +set it up on a rustic-looking bench or support, all of which was very +ridiculous. This had been done in an old colonial house, and had its +origin in old colonial poverty. Now, this architect, in his respect for +that which was past, copied the faults, the inconveniences, and +arrangements which belonged to those earlier times. A course of this +kind, carried out to its fullest extent, would lead us to barbarism. In +the same magazine was another house which was designed with great +respect for precedent. In it was a front door which was divided about +half-way up, so that the lower part might be shut and the upper part +opened. Houses have been seen where something of this kind was +reasonable, where it had its advantages. There are many places in this +country where a door of this kind is almost a necessity; but it isn't on +the seashore. If one has a house in the country, or in a small country +town, where the horses and pigs, geese, chickens, and other animals, are +allowed to roam about in the front yards, a door of this kind has its +uses. In the summer time the upper part can be thrown back and the lower +part closed, so that the most a horse can do in the way of getting into +the house is to stick his head over the top rail and look in. In the +country mills doors of this kind have a very proper and apt name; they +are called pig-doors. They keep the pigs off the mill floor, and, at the +same time, allow the light and air to come from above. But there is no +necessity for a pig-door at Newport or Long Branch, or other seaside +resort. Their use is a silly affectation. There is no beauty in them. +There is no convenience which would lead to their use. + +It is performances such as the above which retard the natural +development of American architecture. American architecture will be +simply carrying out, in an architectural way, the requirements of the +American people in their buildings. From their homes the march of +progress will be through the kitchens, pantries, and dining-rooms. It +will unite with the parlor and sitting-room ideas, which have been more +clearly worked out. The exterior will be formed in a natural way by the +requirements of the interior, and by the variations of climate, and it +will be decorated in a rational, artistic manner. We will not hamper the +interior by the adoption of doors and windows which possibly belonged in +a cathedral of the twelfth or thirteenth century, or the richer details +of the later time, which had their special uses and forms as the +development of the necessity and requirements of that particular period. +The doors and windows of the nineteenth century should have their own +special forms and positions. They should be decorated with a true regard +for precedent so long as precedent does not influence the arrangements +suited to modern times. The American style of architecture will not be +developed through grand public buildings and enormous cathedrals, or +expensive dwellings. + +In this country every one is imbued with the idea of having a home of +his own, and he desires to have it nice, convenient, and attractive. The +average home is in a small, inexpensive house. The proper construction +of these buildings, their arrangement with reference to their +housekeeping requirements, their tasteful external designs considered in +a rational way, will develop American architecture. It will be the +expression of American wants in a natural, artistic spirit. + + + + +A JOURNEY THROUGH THE HOUSE. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + JOURNEY THROUGH THE HOUSE.--PORCH.--VESTIBULE.--HALL.--LONG HALLS + AND SQUARE HALLS.--THE HALL THAT IS A ROOM.--RECEPTION + HALL.--PARLOR.--SITTING-ROOM.--DINING-ROOM. + + +In this section of the book we will make a journey through the house, +stopping at various points of interest long enough to give general +consideration to the details. From the principles herein derived, the +plans subsequently given are constructed. + +Every house should have a front porch. It should be wide,--if possible, +eight feet, that one may sit at a distance from the railing and afford a +space for others to pass behind. The porch is a protection to the front +part of the house from the sun, wind, and, partially, from the cold. +Nothing can be pleasanter than to sit on a shady porch during the warm +part of the day or in the evening. It is an auxiliary to the vestibule. + +The front door should be wide--three or three and a half feet. Double +doors look very nice from the outside, but they are not as convenient or +as easily handled as the single door. The door-bell should be at the +right-hand side. The threshold should be elevated from three to six and +a half inches above the porch floor. + + +VESTIBULE. + +In the plans that are given, various arrangements of vestibules are +shown. In a few instances, direct entrances into the hall and +reception-room are indicated, but such an entrance is not as desirable +as where there is a vestibule. The arrangement of a vestibule for +hat-rack, umbrella-stand, and other conveniences, changes the hall into +an available room. Take, for instance, plan No. 16, page 153. At the +right, as one enters, is a little closet; in it are hooks. At one side +is an umbrella-stand; on the floor is a place for overshoes. Here one +may arrange himself before going into the hall or reception-room. This +is altogether better than having to pass across to one side of the hall +or room, in order to find a place to deposit overshoes, wraps, +umbrellas, etc. It saves work. If this vestibule have a hard-wood floor, +and on it is placed a rug, one may stand there and divest himself of +that which he would not carry into the house, and go into the room in +good order, leaving the muddy overshoes, and the possible dampness of +his umbrella and overcoat, behind him. This arrangement saves work; mud +is not carried into the room. It is a very simple matter to care for the +vestibule; the rug on the floor may be taken to the outside, and the +deposit of mud and dust readily removed. It is well to have a small +mirror at the side, or in the rack. The plan mentioned is merely +suggestive, and does not apply to all houses. By looking through the +plans given, various arrangements may be seen. In some of them there is +no vestibule. Not all housekeepers want the same arrangement. Again, +others do not care to pay for a vestibule. In other instances, the hall +is too small to admit of one. As said before, a good vestibule changes +the hall into a room. It makes a reception-hall tolerable, because it is +not necessary to deposit there many things which should have another +location. A vestibule does not properly serve its purpose where there is +no room or arrangement for depositing wraps, etc. The closet part of the +vestibule, shown in the cut, can, perhaps, be omitted, and hooks +arranged around the wall sides. A curtain could be hung across the space +occupied by the closet door: however, all these details are matters of +taste and disposition. In the opening between the hall and vestibule may +be placed tapestry curtains; these are sufficient storm protectors from +the outside door, especially if the hall register is placed near it. No +one who has not tried it, can realize the amount of protection from the +weather that is afforded by a heavy curtain. It is not necessary or +desirable that a door be placed in the opening from the vestibule to the +hall. + + +HALL. + +This part of the house may be hall, reception-hall, or room. It is a +hall or passage frequently, and not provided with a vestibule. It may be +a hall from its shape; it may be a room for the same reason. It may be +of no use as a room, if the stairway is improperly placed. The house +arranged with a long, narrow hall, having the stairway at the side, is +essentially wasteful of room. Such hall space is usually dark and gloomy +as well as crowded. A hall eight feet wide and twenty feet long, +contains one hundred and sixty square feet of floor-surface, though only +a limited portion of it is available, on account of the shape of the +space which remains after the stairway is placed. A hall twelve by +thirteen feet contains one hundred and fifty-six square feet, but a +great deal more available room. The space not occupied by the stairway +is in better shape. A hall of this shape partakes of the nature of a +room, and may be used as such. In the plan referred to a window-seat is +shown. This window-seat may be used as a seat in warm weather, and, if +the front is in the proper direction, as a conservatory in the winter. +There are many such arrangements as this shown in the book. + +The hall, in most of the plans, is a key to the whole arrangement. It +has been a common, objectionable practice during the past few years to +build houses of moderate cost, so that the hall is along one side with +its entrance to the front, and the parlor next to it; back of the parlor +is the sitting-room, and the hall opens into the dining-room; back of +the dining-room is the kitchen, and so on to the extreme rear with +summer-kitchen, pantry, etc. This makes a long house with only one room +in front on the first floor, and one chamber and alcove facing the +street on the second. Thus the hall serves only as a passage-way. The +living-room has no front view. To obviate this, the halls in the plans, +that are considered with most favor, are arranged to be used as rooms, +and the vestibules are built so that such a thing is possible. If the +hall is to be used as a vestibule, the hat-rack and other arrangements +for hanging wraps, and the umbrella-stand, etc., are placed as near the +front as possible. Where this is not done there must necessarily be a +track from the front to the back, as a mark of travel. + +The stairway may start at one side, and should lead towards the centre +of the house. The nearer it can be started to the rear of the hall, the +better; this gives more room in front. Sometimes the stairway is started +immediately in the rear of the reception-hall, or from an alcove space +at one side; these are good arrangements, depending, of course, upon +other conditions. Upon one side, or in the rear, should be placed a +grate. Nothing can be pleasanter when coming in from a disagreeable +outside than an open-grate fire; this needs no argument. Under the +stairway, or in some convenient nook, it is well to have a lavatory. The +hall should be arranged as a centre from which to pass to the parlor, +living-room, and dining-room. It is important to consider in this +connection that the hall, and the stairway in it, should be placed so +that the stair-landing above is in the centre of the house. Thus we have +in the centre of the building only a small hall as a starting-point; +hence less waste room. When the stairway lands near the front wall on +the second floor, a passage must be provided to the rear of the house. +Where the landing is in the centre, we have only to pass into rooms +without extra steps through long halls. For example, see plan No. 1, +page 110. + +Not every one cares to use the front hall as a reception-room. There is +certainly no objection to naming and using it otherwise. + + +RECEPTION-HALL, PARLOR, AND SITTING-ROOM. + +During recent years there is more of a disposition to live all over the +house; one reason for this is the improved heating arrangements. The +terms sitting-room, parlor, reception-room, mean less in a distinctive +sense, and are used largely for the purpose of classification. We will +consider the parlor and the sitting-room in the same connection. The +parlor has lost the awful stiffness of times past. It is now a +reception-room. + +In a house where there is a reception-hall in front, and the +sitting-room to one side, both having a distinct front view, as is shown +in many of the plans, a lady may occupy the front room and have her +children and work around her, if desirable. A caller may be received in +the reception-room; these, however, are matters of individual +preference. The vestibule may be planned so that it will have an +entrance to both reception-room and sitting-room. + +In some instances the arrangement of sitting-room and reception-hall are +reversed. The hall is the sitting-room, and the other room the parlor. +If doors are used between hall and sitting-room, they should be +sliding; the effect is better, and the separation of the rooms as +complete as necessary. Such doors should always be hung from the top. +The sitting-room should certainly be as good a room as any in the house; +as well located. There should be a closet on the first floor, and, if +possible, it should communicate with this room; if not that, with the +dining-room or reception-hall next to it. Certainly the sitting-room +should always be provided with a grate. + +A window-seat in the hall, parlor, reception, or other room, is really a +great addition in more ways than one. It is not only attractive, but it +adds to the availability of a room. Where there is space for three or +four people to sit, in case of necessity, it is like seating that number +of people outside of the room. They are comfortable, and the room has +that much added to its seating capacity. A bay window arranged in this +way is pleasant indeed. + +Wall space is of great importance in these rooms. In planning a house, +the piano, pictures, lounges, book-shelves, book-cases, bric-à -brac, +etc., should be in mind. In a house of moderate size, it is, ordinarily, +not necessary that the reception-hall, parlor, or sitting-room should be +wider than thirteen and a half feet, and from fifteen to eighteen feet +in length. However, this is not wide enough for those who entertain +largely. A room thirteen and a half feet, with much furniture in it, is +not wide enough for dancing. + +A house arranged with a reception-hall, parlor, sitting-room, +dining-room, etc., is used when it is desired to entertain a great deal; +but for those who are living economically, whose means are limited, one +of these rooms may be omitted. In many of the modern houses the number +of rooms on the first floor has been decreased and their size increased. +Oftentimes there is a reception-hall, a small library, and a +dining-room only, as belonging to the living part of the house on the +first floor. An arrangement of this kind belongs more particularly to a +house which is occupied during only a part of the year; say as summer +cottages in the North, and winter houses in the South. Modern ways of +living make a larger number of rooms less desirable. + +When it is possible, it is pleasant to have a little room off from the +library as a study, or for a doctor as a reception-room or office. Where +one does work at home, it is advantageous to have a private room that +insures isolation, be it never so small. Often the library, so called in +an ordinary sense, is not a library at all. There may be a few books in +it, but it is used as a sitting-room or passage, and has no distinct +necessity or use. + +Additional rooms require more work than the same amount of floor space +in a less number of rooms. The addition of rooms multiplies corners, +windows, doors, etc., and adds more cost and labor, than does mere +additional space. The availability of a room is not always dependent +upon its size. A good deal depends upon the arrangement of wall space. A +room may be large and still have no room for the furniture that is to go +into it. It may be small and still have room enough. + + +DINING-ROOM. + +A good width for a dining-room is thirteen feet. Where one can afford +it, it should be from fifteen to twenty feet in length; larger than this +is a luxury. Its location, for the most part, is back of the +sitting-room or hall. A grate in the dining-room is not altogether +desirable; it is always at somebody's back. Again, a grate does not heat +a room uniformly. It is very common to provide sliding-doors to connect +the dining-room with other parts of the house, even with the parlor; but +they are not the best kind to use. Sound and the odors of the food are +more readily communicated through sliding-doors than others. For that +reason they should not be used. A large, single door, three and a half +feet wide, is preferable, though it does not always give the desired +opening. Generally speaking, it is easier to provide wall space when +planning a dining-room than in any of the other rooms in the house. A +large number of windows is not necessary, and one of them can be placed +high, and thus afford space for a sideboard. This sideboard should be +placed at the end of the room nearest the entrance to the kitchen and +china-closet, where such is used. The sideboard has various uses, +according to the plans of the housekeeper. In some cases it is merely a +place to display dainty china and other table furniture. Below are +places for linen and table cutlery. In other cases, the sideboard is +used as a buffet; as a place from which to serve the food. Sometimes +this is carried to the extremest degree, and includes the carving, and +the serving of that which goes with the meats. + +It was very common in times past to use a slide connecting kitchen and +dining-room. A passage is much better. The slide is worse than a door in +communicating sounds and odors. In some of the plans in this book, doors +are shown opening directly into the kitchen. This is done under protest; +the owner of the house would have it so. The sideboard may be built as a +part of the house. This is well enough when the question of cost is not +important. + +From the dining-room we will pass to the kitchen. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + KITCHENS.--THE KITCHEN A WORKSHOP.--WORK TO BE DONE IN A + KITCHEN.--A PLAN.--FITTINGS.--DISH-WASHING CONVENIENCES.--SINK AND + TABLES.--CHINA-CLOSET.--PANTRY.--COMBINATION PANTRY.--PANTRY + FITTINGS.--WORK IN A PANTRY.--A DOUGH-BOARD.--FLOUR-BIN.--PANTRY + STORES.--CUPBOARD.--REFRIGERATOR ARRANGEMENTS.--PANTRY UTENSILS.--A + DRY-BOX.--SOAP-BOX.--VENTILATION OF KITCHEN.--GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF + KITCHEN PLANNING. + + +The kitchen existed in its state of greatest cleanliness and order a +good many years ago in New England, where it was largely used as a +sitting and dining room. As people became more prosperous, they moved +out of the kitchen; they had a separate sitting-room. It was then that +the kitchen began to decline. After this it was often literally as well +as figuratively separated from the living part of the house. + +The public has not suffered through lack of information on cookery and +general housekeeping topics. Little has been said, however, about the +house itself, with regard to its arrangements for facilitating the +manifold operations of housekeeping. The subject is a broad one, and may +be treated with some respect to detail. As the heart of the house, the +kitchen may be given serious consideration. + +In the modern house the kitchen is merely the place where the food is +prepared for the table. The controlling idea and its arrangements should +be to afford facilities for doing the work with as little labor as +possible. + +The kitchen is the workshop of the house. It should be arranged and +planned according to the same general principles as any other workshop. +A manufacturer arranges his foundry, his mill, or his printing-house, +with reference to the saving of labor, for the purpose of saving money. +When we save labor in a kitchen, we save the energy of the housekeeper, +and, possibly, money. + +An article on this subject was probably never written that did not +pretend to describe the "model kitchen." It is safe to say that no such +kitchen was regarded as "model" by all readers. A model kitchen is +something which is out of reason. No two housekeepers have the same +requirements. Housekeeping practice varies greatly. Again, the kitchen +that can be built to one floor-plan cannot be built to another. In +describing a kitchen, it is in mind to set forth certain general +principles for the benefit of those interested. + +There is little difference between the requirements of a kitchen for a +house of moderate cost and an expensive house. Work of the same general +character is done in every kitchen. The conveniences are more a matter +of thought than of money. Elaborate details add much to the cost, but +little to the convenience. There is little or no difference between the +cost of a well-planned kitchen and one which is poorly planned. + +To state the case broadly, a kitchen should be arranged solely with +reference to the work which is to be done in it: the cooking, +dish-washing, the care of the kitchen itself, and possibly the laundry +work. This latter work should be removed from the kitchen--in any event, +the washing should be done elsewhere--when it is at all possible. The +steam and odor from the washing, which not only fill the kitchen but +permeate the house, are enough to render whatever food there is in the +kitchen unfit for use. It is altogether possible to arrange in the +cellar of any house that is being built, and in many that are already +built, at a trifling cost, a laundry in which the washing and ironing +may be comfortably done. Of course this does not contemplate set tubs; +but set tubs are not found in houses where the washing and ironing are +done in the kitchen, and it is possible to do this work both well and +easily without their use. There is little or no objection to doing the +ironing in a well-ventilated kitchen. It is clean work, and while doing +it the servant may attend to any cooking which is necessary, and see +that the other work of the house moves forward. + +[Illustration: Fig. 2.] + +The kitchen the plan of which is here given (Fig. 2) has been in use for +three years under the varying conditions of one or two servants, and at +times none at all. These are the conditions under which most +housekeepers operate. There have been no emergencies in which the +kitchen and pantries have not proven themselves ample, and none in which +the housekeeper thought that they were too large and complicated. It is +as necessary in houses where the means for maintenance is simply +moderate, that a kitchen should not be too large as that it should +afford ample facilities for accomplishing any work which may be done. + +The kitchen itself is thirteen and one-half by fourteen and one-half +feet. In it are placed the range, tables, sink, drain-board, etc., and +the kitchen safe. The room has been found large enough for the work +which is to be done there, and not so large that the tables, range, and +safe are so far apart that time and strength are wasted moving from one +to another. The kitchen has one large window in it, which is three feet +from the floor. This permits the placing of a table, ironing-board, or +chair under it, and thus gives additional wall space. There are two +windows in the pantry, and a draught is secured through them, the +kitchen window, and the transom over the door. The door is glazed. + +The most disagreeable work of a kitchen, and that which takes much time, +is the dish-washing. It is possible to make this work lighter and +pleasanter than is usual. The necessary conditions are plenty of water, +hot and cold, a place where the dishes will drain themselves, an +abundance of table room for them both before and after washing. In the +kitchen given the sink is placed next the kitchen flue. This gives a +place for the pipe duct next the warm bricks, which prevent freezing +even in severe cold weather. During the three years in which this +kitchen has been in use they have never frozen, even when the +temperature was twenty degrees below zero. The exact construction of +this kitchen pipe-duct and other kitchen wood-work is given elsewhere. +The range, which is usually next the flue, is, in this instance, placed +at some distance from it. There is no reason why this should not be +done, as it has been in many instances, with no disagreeable results. + +The sink is not enclosed, but stands upon legs. Enclosed sinks are +places which cannot be kept clean even with the utmost vigilance. The +brushes, scrub-rags, and buckets, which are usually kept there, are in +this kitchen provided a place elsewhere. + +[Illustration: Fig. 3.] + +At the left of the sink is a table; at the right, a drain-board, which +is inclined toward the sink, and provided with grooves. At the right of +this is a swing-table on the same level. The soiled dishes are placed on +the table at the left, washed in the sink, which is provided with cocks +for hot and cold water, drained on the drain-board, and, when wiped, +placed on the table at the right. A glance at the plan will show that +they are then beside the door which leads to the china-closet, and may +be quickly placed where they belong. + +It may be well to say a few words about the china-closet. The shelves +are placed in a passage which leads from the kitchen to the dining-room, +and are separated from the passage by doors. This passage is lighted by +a window, and has two doors leading into it--one from the dining-room, +and one from the kitchen (Fig. 2). These doors are swung on double +swinging hinges, so that they may be opened by merely pushing against +them, and will then swing back noiselessly into a closed position. One +may pass through doors of this kind with a tray full of dishes without +touching them with the hand. This arrangement dispenses with the +necessity for a slide, and also does away with the noises and odors from +the kitchen, which so readily find their way to the rest of the house +where a slide is used. However, if a slide is really desired, it can be +placed over either the table at the left of the sink or over the +swing-table at the right, and be convenient from both kitchen and +dining-room. + +The china-pantry could be readily enlarged into a butler's pantry, by +extending it across the end of the dining-room, and placing the end +window of this room on one side, thus bringing two windows on the same +wall. There is a movable shelf under one of the permanent shelves in +this china-closet, which can be drawn out in order to place a tray of +dishes on it while they are being put away, and which can be pushed out +of the way when not in use. This shelf is also of service as a place +upon which to arrange the different dishes needed for the several +courses of a meal, and in this way facilitates the table service. + +In Fig. 4, the combination idea is carried out in pantry and +china-closet. The pantry-cupboard projects into the room in a way to +form a partition between the pantry and china-closet, and, at the same +time, admits of a passage between the kitchen and dining-room with a +separation of two doors. + +Fig. 5 indicates an approved form of construction of china-closet and +pantry, such as may be used in most of the pantries and china-rooms +which are in this book. + +[Illustration: Fig. 4.] + +The work which takes the most time is the preparation of food, and every +well-planned kitchen has its arrangements for lightening this burden. +The first consideration is the location of the utensils, and the table +and sink where the meats and vegetables are prepared. All should be near +enough to the range so that there are no unnecessary steps to be taken. +The number that are taken where the sink is in one corner of the +kitchen, the table in another, and the range removed from both, is +innumerable. In this kitchen the table proper and the sink are together, +and they are but a step from the range. + +There is a small swing-table attached to the wall at one side of the +range. This provides a place for utensils, such as spoons, and forks, +and dishes, such as those holding pancake batter, which are in constant +use during cooking, and which cannot be held in the hand while the +cooking is in progress. This alone saves many steps. The drain-board is +a good place for draining vegetables, and to place utensils which are +used in the preparation of food. Above the sink are hooks, etc., upon +which to keep small utensils. In localities where there is much dust +coming in from the outside these utensils must be kept elsewhere, behind +closed doors. + +[Illustration: Fig. 5.] + +For the preparation of bread, cake, pastries, etc., the pantry is +provided. In it are places for everything which can be used for such +preparation. One can go out of the heat and noise of the kitchen into a +little room which holds everything that can possibly be needed, and +there prepare those articles of food which take the most time and +careful attention. In Fig. 2 are two windows; under one is the +dough-board. This is a table fastened to the wall at a convenient +height for moulding and general work of this character. On one end is a +piece of marble, twelve inches wide by sixteen long, which is used for +moulding purposes. The advantages of such a piece of marble are +numerous. It is as easily cleaned as a dish and requires no scouring, +and, as dough does not readily stick to it, moulding can be done without +the trouble which comes from the use of a board. This piece of marble is +not fastened to the dough-board, as is sometimes done. Where it is set +into the board there will always be creases in which dough will lodge, +and it can only be cleaned with the greatest trouble. Where it is free, +it can be raised from the board occasionally, and everything thoroughly +cleaned. + +At the right of the board is the flour-bin, which contains places for +various kinds of flour and meal. Next to it is the refrigerator. Over +the refrigerator is a window which opens on the porch, and through which +the ice may be placed without the iceman going through the kitchen with +his wet feet and dripping load. + +At the left of the dough-board are shelves for keeping stores. The lower +shelves are enclosed by doors and provided with a lock, so that extra +stores may be placed there for safe keeping, where this is found +desirable. The upper shelves are exposed. On them are kept sugar, tea, +coffee, baking-powder, and kindred stores, which are in every-day use, +and can be reached easier if there are no doors to be opened and closed. +They should be kept in air-tight cans, which prevent their exposure to +dust, insects, and air. Back of the door opening into the kitchen are +hooks for the utensils which more properly belong in the pantry than the +kitchen. + +Many housekeepers prefer to keep the refrigerator in the cellar, on +account of the waste in the ice. This waste, to the mind of the writer, +is a small matter. The time spent by either housekeeper or servant in +going into the cellar could much better be occupied in doing something +else which would save more than does keeping the refrigerator below. +Then, again, when it is kept in the pantry it can readily be provided +with a zinc drain to the outside, which saves some little labor. In the +cellar such a drain would only be possible where sand could be reached. +A refrigerator should never, under any circumstances, be drained into +the sewer, as is sometimes done. + +The utensils which properly belong to the kitchen are kept in an +old-fashioned kitchen safe, rather than in a closet opening out from the +kitchen. A safe is more readily cleaned than a closet, and the +perforated metal doors render the upper part of it an excellent place +for storing cold food, which it is not desirable to keep in the +refrigerator. Then if, as may happen in any kitchen which is left to the +care of servants, vermin should take possession, the safe can be moved +from the room, and trouble from this source avoided. + +The entrance to the cellar is near the table, as marked. At the head of +the cellar are placed brooms, mops, and dust-pans, and above these, well +away from the head when going below, is a shelf upon which two buckets +can be placed. + +Back of the range is a small wooden box, thirty inches long by +twenty-two inches wide and twelve inches deep, which is provided with a +door and shelves. These shelves, as well as the top and bottom, have +holes bored through them in order to allow the passage of hot air. In +this box scrubbing-rags and brushes dry at once, and never have a bad +odor. The box is of the same wood as the other kitchen finish, and looks +as if it were a part of it. + +A soap-box, with construction similar to the above, may be provided. It +should have a tin-pipe connection with flue or other ventilating +apparatus. It will dry the soap and render its use less wasteful. + +The ventilation of the kitchen is an important matter. The ideal kitchen +has no rooms over it, and has ventilators in the ceiling. But this is +not possible in most houses, and a substitute must be provided. An +inverted sheet-iron hopper placed over the range, with an opening into +either the flue or the outside of the house, will carry out the odors +from cooking. An opening into the pipe-duct which holds the plumbing +pipes will keep them from freezing in cold weather at the same time that +it helps ventilate. + +An important consideration in a kitchen is to build it so that it will +not readily accumulate dirt, and can be easily cleaned. A large amount +of time is spent in every well-kept house in cleaning the kitchen. The +floor should be of oak, maple, or other hard wood, oiled, waxed, or +finished with regular floor-finishing. The casings and doors are, of +course, kept in better condition, with less labor, when of hard wood. +Where this is not attainable, poplar, or other similar wood, finished +with a varnish which will stand warm water, will prove a very good +substitute. The tables should be either of oak, which requires little +scrubbing, or poplar, which is so easily scrubbed that it is always +white enough to delight the heart of the most particular housekeeper. A +kitchen finished in this way is much less care than when the floor is of +soft wood, and the finish a soft wood painted. + +All kitchens in this book are planned according to the principles here +set forth. They do not pretend to be exactly like this one, but the same +general principle runs through all. + +There are very good reasons why wainscoting should not be used in a +kitchen, and no compensating advantages. The bead-joints and extra +wood-work thereof make labor in the impossible task of keeping it clean. +The less wood-work there is in a kitchen, the better. There are various +kind of water-proof proprietary plaster finishes which may be used in +finishing the walls and ceiling of a kitchen. Where they are not used, a +white skim coat should be put on and painted after about a year's use. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + CELLAR.--FUEL DEPARTMENTS.--FURNACE + CONVENIENCES.--COAL-BINS.--CEMENT FLOORS.--LIGHT IN THE CELLAR.--A + CELLAR-CLOSET.--OUTSIDE CELLAR-DOOR. + + +The cellar was originally a hole in the ground. In the modern house, +that is arranged to please the house-keeper, it is well lighted; +provided with a smooth cement floor that is easily cleaned; is not open +as one room, but has apartments--one for a laundry, another for fuel and +furnace, and still others for fruits and general stores. In the matter +of fuel there is no reason why the entire winter supply should not be in +the basement. It is certainly a great deal worse to go outside of the +house in winter time from a hot, steaming kitchen, than it is to go into +the basement for the fuel. However, there is some objection to storing +wood in the cellar, for the reason that it brings bugs, ants, and vermin +into the house. + +Coal-bins should be constructed with hopper bottoms,--with bottom and +sides slanting from level of outside grade-line to cellar floor,--where +the location will admit of it. When there is not a cellar under all of +the house, it is generally possible to arrange the coal-bin under the +part without cellar, and slanting down to the part so used. This is +illustrated in plan No. 11, Chapter XX. There the coal is put through +the windows into the bins, and slides down to the opening in cellar. For +each shovelful of coal taken away from the lower opening, another will +take its place. This is particularly true with crushed coke, or +anthracite coal, or nut and egg sizes of other fuel. The lump sizes +require a larger opening than the usual twenty-inch-square opening for +the coal mentioned. These bins should be lined on the bottom preferably +with bricks laid in cement. If this is not used, two-inch oak boards +will do. Partitions of the same material should be used to separate the +various bins. With an arrangement of this kind a large amount of storage +capacity can be provided. Under some circumstances this plan cannot be +adopted. In such a case the ordinary bins may be used. + +As houses are now planned, the first tier of joists are placed from +twenty to twenty-four inches above the grade-line. Where it is not +possible to secure that height for cellar-windows, areas may be built of +brick or stone, and additional light provided. Light is the enemy of +disorder and uncleanliness; where there is exposure there will be less +disorder. + +It is not necessary to have the cellar under the whole house, for +reasons as mentioned, and on account of the cost. It is sometimes +important that savings of all kinds be made. The furnace may be set in a +pit with its face directed to the cellar. It is best that the opening +from the hoppered coal-bins, above described, be close to the furnace. +If it can be opened at the side, so that one can stand in the pit and +throw coal in the fire-box, it is better than any other arrangement. + +The ordinary cellar is seven feet in the clear, and, for this reason, it +is nearly always necessary to pit the furnace. This is done by digging +an extra depth, and lining the area and opening with brick. + +Near enough to the furnace to be warm, should be a closet for canned +fruit, made of flooring-boards, if not of more substantial material, and +provided with a door and lock. It should be shelved with board about +seven inches apart. Other winter stores, like potatoes, cabbage, etc., +should be kept in a dark cellar with an earth floor. It is the opinion +of farmers and others that vegetables keep best when lying next the +ground. The cellar-involving arrangements here outlined may be seen in +plan No. 11. The outside door, which leads into the cellar, should bolt +on the inside, and the upper cellar door on the outside. There should be +doors provided to separate the different rooms. Where cost is an item, +they may be made of two thicknesses of flooring. Cellar-windows should +be hung on hinges, and provided with bolt fastenings; catches are not +secure. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + A LOW-COST LAUNDRY.--BLUE MONDAY.--BASEMENT LAUNDRY.--LOW-COST + CONVENIENCES.--INEXPENSIVE LAUNDRY FITTINGS.--HOT AND COLD WATER + ARRANGEMENTS.--A LABOR-SAVING LAUNDRY.--A PLACE TO DO + FRUIT-CANNING. + + +The term "Blue Monday" probably originated on account of its being +general wash-day, and a day in which everybody about the house undertook +to do an impossible amount of work with limited resources. + +Most of the washings in this country are done in the kitchen. The +wash-boiler is on the stove, and the servant or mistress of the house, +or both, attempt to wash and do their cooking without seriously +disturbing the routine of meals. There is a fussiness about everything +pertaining to that day, which creates an atmosphere of blueness which is +proverbial. The steamy, crowded kitchen, the almost inevitable wetness +or slipperiness, the great physical exertion required, the carrying of +water, the lifting of tubs, are all uncomfortable, and the work is done +at a great disadvantage. In an expensive house, where there is plenty of +money, Monday is not so blue. Immunity is purchased. Possibly the +clothes are sent from the house to be washed in somebody else's kitchen; +maybe to be worn by some one else before they are returned, and often to +be injured or destroyed by the strong washing-mixtures and soaps, which +are made to save rubbing. This kind of immunity is expensive. It is too +expensive for the large majority of people. It is annoying to all +alike. + +Laundry work will sometime be done at a cost which will admit of people +of moderate means having this work done at a public laundry. At present, +the general laundry work of an ordinary household cannot be done in this +way, on account of the expense. + +The general public laundry, where arrangements are made to do the entire +family washing at a low cost, is a complete solution of the Blue-Monday +problem; but until the laundry is an accomplished fact, such work will +be done at home, and a family laundry must be considered in +house-building. It would be a very easy matter to arrange a laundry +which would meet all the desired conditions, if we were to operate +independent of cost, but the large majority of people are not +independent in this way. If it were not a matter of cost, we would have +an independent room for the laundry work, with porcelain tubs, and hot +and cold water running into all of them; we could have a steam-drier, +and many other things, which it is useless to mention here. It is the +laundry of the moderate-cost house which interests the largest number of +people. + +We must have a place to do laundry work which is a compromise between +the foggy kitchen and the laundry with porcelain tubs. + +As houses are now built, the first floor is usually from two and a half +to three feet above the grade. This affords abundant opportunity of +getting a well-lighted basement. If the basement is dark, put more +windows in it, and whitewash the walls and ceilings. Cement the floor. +Put in a slop sink, and give it a trapped connection with the vault or +sewer. Provide a pump over this sink to connect with the cistern. If the +city water is soft, this will be used and no pump will be required. Then +a laundry stove is to be provided. Thus we have everything ready for +use without much labor, and certainly at a very low cost. + +The basement should be light under any circumstances. The floor should +be cemented, the joists should be whitewashed, so that the only +additions necessary to make the laundry work easy are a laundry stove, a +place to throw waste water, and a supply of hot and cold water. If one +does not care to heat the water in the ordinary boiler, there is a very +simple device for heating water which may be placed in any laundry. An +open tank, which will hold two or three barrels of water, can be placed +over the stove and next to the joist. From it a connection can be made +with the laundry stove by means of lead and iron pipe. This pipe should +start from the bottom of the tank and connect with an iron pipe which +enters the stove, and passes around the inside of the fire-pot, then to +the outside and connects with another lead pipe, which empties into the +tank again on a level above the first opening. Thus the cold water would +come from the bottom of the tank, through the stove where it would be +heated, thence upward and into the tank. This would give a hot-water +circulating connection, and in this way provide hot water for use in the +laundry. This arrangement would require a low-cost force-pump to force +the water to the tank. There are many kinds of these pumps, which are +substantial and can be secured at a low cost. The pipe from the stove +could be supplied with a compression cock from which the water could be +drawn into the tubs. The better way would be to have an independent tank +connection. Lead pipe was mentioned as being the pipe to use in making +the connection with the iron pipe in the laundry stove. Galvanized iron +pipe would answer every purpose and cost a little less. Where set tubs +are not used, the water could be readily distributed by means of a hose +pipe. If the above arrangement is too expensive, the stove only can be +used for heating water. + +Set tubs might be used instead of the ordinary wooden ones which were +contemplated, and would save a good deal of labor, but the cost is +something which all cannot afford. The arrangement described here can be +reached by nearly every one of moderate means. It provides a place to +throw slop water, and brings hot and cold water close at hand. It +isolates the washing from the cooking, and the smell of washing from the +whole house. It is very different from the conditions in most houses, +where the water has to be carried from the backyard into the house, +lifted to the stove, poured into the tubs, and afterward carried out, a +bucket at a time, and emptied over the back fence, if the tub is not +dragged out and emptied into the yard. + +It is well in building a new house to have an outside cellar-way to +facilitate the use of the laundry below. In such a case the clothes can +be carried into the yard without being taken through the kitchen. There +will be times when the weather will not permit taking the clothes +outdoors. In very cold weather it should never be done. It is murderous +for a woman to have to carry clothes from a hot, steamy laundry or +kitchen at eighty degrees to the cold, dry air of the outside. There is +no woman so strong that she can stand this. All the clothes can be +readily dried in the basement. Here is presented another argument in +favor of the laundry below. The washing can always be done at the +appointed time in spite of the weather. When one goes into a large attic +he is apt to say, "What a splendid place to dry clothes." People who dry +clothes in the attic usually do the washing in the kitchen. + +A basement laundry is a cool place in summer and a warm one in winter. +There is no better place for ironing in warm weather, for even with a +fire the basement is always cool. Nor can there be a better place for +canning fruit. The conveniences of plenty of water, a fire, and yet a +cool place for doing this extremely laborious work, will be readily +appreciated. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + THE SECOND FLOOR.--STAIRWAYS.--THE COMBINATION STAIRWAY.--IDEAL + NUMBER OF BEDROOMS.--LARGE CLOSETS AND PLENTY OF THEM.--A + LINEN-CLOSET.--PLACING OF GAS-FIXTURES.--SERVANT'S + ROOM.--BATH-ROOM.--AN ATTIC.--ATTIC CLOSETS.--ATTIC ROOMS. + + +In many houses a combination stairway is used. By this is meant one in +which the front and rear stairways run together in a common landing. In +this case, there should be doors separating the rear from the front +stairway, one at the beginning, and one at the end of the rear part. The +combination stairway is a compromise. Oftentimes, however, one can +secure other things which are desirable by its use. There are other +compromises more objectionable than the combination stairway. + +A stairway of this kind is not used as the most desirable thing, but as +the least objectionable of other compromises; for instance, if one can +secure, for a given cost, an additional room or two by using a +combination stairway, the room is frequently preferable. No one can +doubt but that a front stairway, entirely separated from the one in the +rear, is the best thing to have; however, it is easy to understand that +a combination stairway may be used for reasons above stated. In some of +the plans a stairway is shown, starting from a stair-hall in the rear of +reception-hall or room. Under such circumstances, a combination is not +necessary. One can come from the kitchen and go upstairs without being +observed from the other parts of the house. Again, combinations are +sometimes used so that they apply to the servant's room as a continuous +stairway, and as a combination to the other parts of the house. This is +true of several plans given. + +It is almost superfluous to say that a stairway should be easy, still it +is known that not all are so. The one in the front part of the building +should always be made without winders; that in the rear, the same way if +possible. Landings are preferable, and make a staircase beautiful. +Stairways may be considered from a hygienic standpoint. This, however, +is not necessary in this connection. Where there is only one stairway, +it is not uncommon to have it start from the dining-room, and, if one +stops to think about it, this is not a bad arrangement. The dining-room +is centrally located, and the stairway may be used by the servants when +this room is not otherwise in use. Certainly it is less objectionable +than placing it in a hall through which all have to pass, or where it is +necessary to pass through other rooms to reach the second floor from the +rear. A combination stairway, or one that starts up from the +dining-room, is less objectionable in a house where there is a bath-room +on the second floor than it would otherwise be. Where the bath-room is +so placed, it is not necessary that the slops be carried down or the +water carried up stairs; and, in other respects, it is less necessary to +use the stairway in a disagreeable way. + +The rear stairway should be connected with the front part of the house +by means of a hall on the second floor. It is generally found desirable +to have a girl's room near the rear stairway, and to cut off that part +of the house from the front by means of a door. There should be means of +lighting, artificial and otherwise, at the beginning and landings of all +stairways. + +In a young and growing family, five is the ideal number of rooms for the +second floor. This number may be increased or decreased according to the +size and development of the family. Where there are five rooms it +affords, first, a family room in front, built over the parlor or +sitting-room; next to that is a room in front for the very young +children, and afterwards for the girls; then the room in the rear of the +family room may be for the boys; the fourth room for guests, and the +fifth for the servant. The guest-room view is to the side and the rear. +There are cases where one must accommodate a large number of people with +a smaller number of rooms, and, again, a larger number of rooms is +thought indispensable. In connection with the size of bedrooms, we may +say what was said before,--that their availability does not depend +entirely upon their size. A room may be large and still not contain a +place for a bed or other furniture. It may be moderately small and yet +have space for all. + +The more we think about the arrangement of houses, the larger appear the +number of indispensables. It used to be thought unnecessary to have a +closet in every bedroom; one was certainly enough in the family room. +Now it is almost a necessity that there be two closets in the family +room--one for the lady, and a smaller one for the gentleman. There +should certainly be one closet in every bedroom, and, in addition to +that, one which opens from the hall, to be used for bed-linen and +general bedroom supplies. A suitable place for brooms and dust-pans is +the attic stairway when a special closet is not provided. + +In lighting bedrooms there should be at least one window for each +outside exposure. Where the size will admit, there should be two windows +placed so that the dressing-case can be set between them, either in the +corner or otherwise. Most bedrooms are lighted artificially by bracket +lights instead of the centre light. There should be one bracket on each +side of the dressing-case; if not, a pendent light immediately over it. +Centre connections for gas-fixture are usually provided, but in practice +many houses are not supplied with the fixture. + +Grates on the second floor make work: carrying of fuel and ashes is +always disagreeable in the extremest degree. The placing of ash-pits in +the cellar may make it unnecessary to carry the ashes, but still grates +make work. At the same time it is very pleasant to have a grate in the +bedroom; they are the best means of ventilation known. + +The servant's room is not usually very large, seldom large enough. It +should be provided with a closet, the same as other rooms. The window in +that room should be set high enough from the floor so as to admit of the +placing of a trunk under it, without interfering with the light or in +other ways appearing uncomfortable. + +The bath-room and general plumbing work are considered in detail in the +following chapter. It is sufficient to say that there should be as +little wood-work as possible in the bath-room. Water-proof plastering +should be used, and when this becomes soiled it can be washed and +painted. + +There is nothing a housekeeper appreciates more than a good attic and an +easy stairway leading to it. Often attics are not plastered; they should +always be floored at the same time the house is built. Where it is not +possible to make divisions by plastering, and other substantial +material, light wooden partitions will serve the purpose of providing +means of classifying that which is stored in the attic, and prevent it +from being in a continual state of disorder. The rooms may be fitted +with shelves, closets, etc. + +Where it is possible so to do, the attic room should be plastered. It +makes the rooms below appreciably cooler in summer. In most of the +plans herein illustrated, the roof is high enough to provide space for +good rooms, with ceilings as high and as square as those of the rooms +below. It is cheaper to provide rooms in this way than to spread over +more ground; and there is certainly no valid objection to their use by +the boys of the family. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + PLUMBING.--IS PLUMBING ENTIRELY SAFE?--COMPLETENESS IN PLUMBING + APPARATUS.--LABOR-SAVING PLUMBING APPARATUS.--SEWER + CONNECTIONS.--SOIL PIPE.--A TRAP.--ACCIDENTS TO TRAPS.--FREQUENT + USE OF PLUMBING APPARATUS DESIRABLE FOR + SAFETY.--WATER-CLOSETS.--SIMPLICITY IN PLUMBING.--DRAIN + CONNECTIONS.--TO KEEP PLUMBING APPARATUS FROM FREEZING.--CISTERN + WATER SUPPLY.--GREASE SINK.--FLUSHING OF DRAIN.--BATH-TUB. + + +In considering the plumbing apparatus of a house, the question is often +asked, "Are these things safe? Do they not endanger the health of the +occupants of the house?" The answer is, The plumbing apparatus may be +entirely safe. That it is not always so, we all know. We hear of many +cases of typhoid fever, diphtheria, scarlet fever, and other diseases, +which are traceable to, or aggravated by, defective plumbing. In some +sections of the country so much trouble has been caused by poor +plumbing, that the people, as a class, have come to be suspicious of +all. The reason for this is the effort to cheapen the work. Suffering +from bad work has led to safety. In larger cities this work is under the +control of the city government. It may be said that it is possible so to +arrange the fixtures and apparatus appertaining to plumbing that it is +entirely safe. The question naturally follows, "How is this done?" + +It may be said that good work is not a great deal more expensive than +poor work. Again, good work is not always a question of money. It is one +of knowledge or inclination on the part of the plumber. + +One in moderate circumstances, who builds a house to cost from +twenty-five hundred to four thousand dollars, should have well water or +city water, and hot and cold cistern water in the sink in the kitchen. +There should be at least a slop-hopper in the laundry. In the bath-room +a water-closet, a tub, and generally a wash-stand. This latter feature +is not absolutely necessary, as will be explained later. In the attic +there should be a tank to hold the cistern water, which is connected +with the fixtures using soft water below. A force-pump, or water-motor, +may be located in the kitchen or basement to lift the water to tank. In +more elaborate houses a completer plumbing apparatus may be used. There +may be an especial sink in the china-closet. There may be wash-stands in +the various chambers, and one on the first floor. + +There may be, also, an additional water-closet on the first floor, or in +the cellar, located where it is accessible to the members of the family. +There are many ways of expending money in plumbing fixtures; but, with +those first mentioned, one may be entirely comfortable, and derive all +of the housekeeping benefits which may be expected from such +conveniences. Unless the house be large, an increase in the number of +fixtures would increase the amount of work done in keeping them clean, +rather than save labor. + +In the matter of safety, another question, which sometimes arises, is as +to the danger from the plumbing apparatus where there is no sewer +connection, or where it has to be made with a vault. The protection +against sewer-gas is not from the sewer itself or the vault. It is +entirely through protective apparatus in the house, and the manner of +the connection with the vault or sewer. + +One may consider the conditions of safety in plumbing apparatus under +two general heads. First, as to the workmanship; second, as to design or +plan of the apparatus. Nothing need be said as to the workmanship, +excepting that the execution of the design, or the benefits to be +derived from it, maybe entirely lost by defective workmanship. If the +work is not properly executed, the design need not be considered. The +result will be bad irrespective of the plan. + +In considering the design of the apparatus, we will take into account +the arrangement of the connections and fixtures. By the latter +expression is meant the tub, the water-closet, the wash-bowl, and the +sink, pump, etc. The connections which have to do with the safety of the +apparatus are the traps and the waste pipes, or pipes which connect with +the vault or sewer. + +The main waste pipe inside the house is called the soil pipe. The +smaller waste pipes from the fixtures connect with it. The soil pipe is +of cast-iron, and usually four inches in diameter on the inside. It +connects, full size, with the water-closet. Most other wastes are of +lead, and are usually an inch and a half in diameter. In the soil and +waste pipes there will naturally be the odors from the vaults and sewer, +or from the foul matter which is in or passing through the pipes. +Therefore, there must be means in each waste pipe, which connects a +fixture with the main soil pipe, of preventing the passage of gas or air +from it into the house. This is done by means of what is called a trap. +The "S" trap is the commonest form; this name is given it from its +shape, and illustrates its construction. If we take a letter S and turn +it sideways we will get the form of such a trap. The right side or end +would continue directly down toward the drain or soil pipe, and the left +side would continue upward and connect with the fixture (see Fig. 6). +The water from the fixture comes down and is forced upward through the +bend by the pressure of water above, and from thence runs into the soil +pipe or drain. Thus it will be seen that there is always a seal of water +in the trap. There is always water in the trap as indicated by the depth +of the bend of the S. There are hundreds of different forms of traps, +but they are all constructed on the same principle; the idea being that +the gas or air from the pipe would have to pass through the water in +order to get into the house. The water in the trap is called the seal; +it seals the passage of air as stated. + +[Illustration: Fig. 6.] + +There are many conditions under which a trap may fail to do its full +duty. It may be foul in itself, or it may be rendered foul by the bad +air in the drain. The trap may be siphoned by a heavy flow of water +through the main drain, or it may be siphoned by a string or a rag which +may readily find its way into the trap, and hang over the bend so that +all of the water will run out. Again, the water in the trap may +evaporate. All these dangers may be guarded against. In the first place, +there should be means which allow fresh air to pass through all that +portion of the main drain or soil pipe which is in or close to the +house. The means of accomplishing this are various. + +The soil pipe is ventilated by continuing up through and well above the +roof with a full opening at the top. The smaller drains should be +ventilated in the same way when far removed from main soil pipe or other +connection. The traps should be ventilated by 1-1/2-inch or two-inch +connections with the outer air, as shown by cut. + +Frequent use of plumbing fixtures contributes to safety. It causes a +large volume of water to pass through the pipes. The flushing of the +pipes and drains in this way makes them cleaner and thus safer. It is +frequently said by those who have plumbing fixtures in their houses +that they use them as little as possible, because they are afraid of +them. Nothing worse could be done. The water in the traps evaporates or +becomes foul, and thus the gas has a free entrance to the house. A +water-closet helps greatly to cleanse the soil pipe and outside drain. +It discharges a large volume of water into it suddenly, in a way to keep +it clean. It is not a bad plan to use the closet at least once a day, +solely for the purpose of flushing the drain. In houses where there are +a number of wash-stands distributed through the various chambers and +halls there is danger from neglect in using them. The water seal in the +traps may evaporate, and thus give direct sewer-air connection with the +house. Particularly is this so in the guest's room. A wash-stand is a +more dangerous fixture for this reason than any other in the house. + +[Illustration: Fig. 7] + +The water-closet problem has received a great deal of attention. A few +years ago they were quite complicated, there being levers and pipes, +pans, springs and weights, to a degree of complexity which caused a +great deal of trouble. There has since been a return to first principles +and great simplicity. The water-closet of to-day is nothing more or less +than a large bowl connected by means of an "S" trap four inches in +diameter with the soil pipe, and provided with means of flushing with +large volumes of water. Such a closet is known as the "washout closet." +In other closets there is an intermediate plunger-valve separating the +hopper from the trap. The plunger-valve is defined by its name. It is a +large stopper which plunges into and closes up the opening to the trap +by means of its own weight when released. That which makes one closet +different from another has to do more with means of flushing than +anything else. By flushing is meant the pouring into and distribution of +water in the hopper. The most popular closets, those which have given +the most satisfaction, are "washout" closets, made entirely of white +earthenware, not alone the bowl, but the trap and connecting neck. +Closets are best flushed from an independent tank, which is placed about +seven feet above the closet and connects with it by means of 1-1/4-inch +pipe. The height gives it a strong flush of water, which cleanses it +thoroughly. + +In the past it has been usual to conceal the earthenware or iron body of +the closet. It is best to leave it entirely open around the sides, that +the entire apparatus may be exposed. Sometimes it is necessary to +support the flap and seat by legs, though the modern closets are +arranged so that all of the woodwork may be secured to the upper part of +the hopper or the wall. There should be the solid flap covering to the +wooden seat with the opening in it, both of which should be hinged, so +as to allow them to be thrown back. It is convenient to use the +water-closet as a slop hopper. In order to do this the seat should be +hinged, so that it may be thrown back out of the way. + +One frequently hears it said by those who exercise their authority over +household matters that they do not allow anything to be put into the +water-closet except that which is naturally intended for it; meaning +that they do not allow the slop water to be put into it. There is no +reason in this. The closet that cannot be used for this purpose cannot, +with safety, be allowed in the house. The use of the water-closet as a +slop sink is not only legitimate but desirable. It flushes the drain. + +There is a movement toward simplicity in general plumbing apparatus. At +the time the water-closets were in the complicated state mentioned, +everything pertaining to plumbing was in the same general condition. It +was thought necessary to fill a house with a wilderness of pipes and +traps to have it safe or satisfactory. The very complexity of the +arrangement made it not only unsafe but expensive to maintain. + +We have all heard a great deal about the expense of maintaining a +plumbing plant, if it may be so called. There is no reason why there +should be constant repairs and expense. It is pleasant to know that +additional expense is not necessary to secure immunity from trouble. The +idea of simplicity in arrangement, general excellence in the fixtures, +material, and labor, which go to form the completed work, has to be +borne in mind. The arrangement of the plumbing apparatus has to be +planned with the same care and thoughtfulness as the other parts of the +house. + +It should be remembered that if the pipes are placed in a position where +the temperature is liable to fall below thirty-two degrees the water in +the pipes will freeze. Thus it is suggested that all pipes should be on +an inside wall,--if possible, next to the kitchen flue,--and that there +be here arranged an especial pipe duct of wood to ventilate the kitchen, +and, at the same time, keep the pipes from freezing by means of the warm +air which will pass through it. This duct should be covered on the face +with a wide board, which can be readily removed by taking out a few +screws. Thus the pipes may be exposed at any time desirable. + +If the hot-water boiler in the kitchen is surrounded by an enclosure +which has an opening in the bottom, and which connects from above with +the pipe duct previously described, there will be a current of warm air +passing upward through the pipe duct as long as there is warm water in +the boiler. The water in the boiler will be warm long after everything +else is cold. This will insure safety from freezing when other helps +fail. + +The cistern water is supplied to the bath-room, and to the hot-water +reservoir, by means of a tank placed in the attic, or at least above the +highest fixture. It sometimes happens that the supply pipe from the tank +above the attic floor freezes. All this may be prevented by enclosing +the tank, and the pipe which connects with it, with a large box or +canvas covering which is six or eight inches larger than the tank. This +confines the warm air from the duct mentioned, so that as long as there +is heat it will always be in this enclosure. + +The outside drain, which connects with the vault or sewer, is, in some +instances, trapped previous to its entrance to the sewer or vault. In +such cases, this trap should have a connection with the outer air, and +on the side of the trap towards the house. Sometimes this outer-air +connection is made into the water spout from the roof; but this is not +proper, for the reason that the sewer gas, or the gas from the vault, is +almost certain to destroy the spout. Again, this spout may come out near +a dormer, or may pass near a window, and in either case may contaminate +the air in the house. It is better that this ventilating connection +should be in the yard, at some distance from the house, or, better yet, +that there should be a long iron pipe extending well above the ground. +It should be understood that this vent has no direct connection with the +sewer, but merely with the soil pipe and drain back of the trap; with +that part of it which is nearest to, and in, the house. + +Sometimes it is necessary to run the down spouts into the sewer +connection; in such a case one should be certain that the down-spout +openings are not near the dormers, and that they have no connection +whatever with the cistern. It is common to have a switch or cut-off in +the down spout, so that the latter may be connected either with the +cistern or sewer. This is very bad practice. While it is connected with +the sewer or with the drain pipe, the down spout is contaminated with +all the foulness of the air of the drain. On its being connected with +the cistern, the water is poisoned. + +Immunity from sewer gas in the house is largely dependent upon the +flushing and ventilation of the drain and the soil pipe. In the case of +a drain which is trapped as described, there is an air connection +through the vent before the trap; then the soil pipe which is in the +house should continue upward through the roof. Thus there is a fresh air +inlet through the drain, and upward through the soil pipe of the house. +Such a connection prevents the possibility of siphoning the traps, as it +gives an outward air connection. The water passing through the drain or +soil pipe can draw its supply of air from the upward soil vent, rather +than through the traps which contain water. When there is no upward vent +of the soil or drain, the water in the traps which connect therewith +will be drawn out by the passage of water through the drain where +fixtures are used. + +There are those who maintain that there should be no trap in the yard or +adjacent to the house, but that there should be a straight run from the +soil pipe to the sewer or vault, and upward through the roof and above +the house. It is good practice to use the trap as described for sewer +connections, but not for open vault connections. + +A grease sink is frequently placed in the drain to intercept the +passage of grease into the vault. It is so placed and connected that +only the water from the kitchen sink, or other fixtures where the water +contains grease, may enter it. It is made of brick, and is usually of +six or eight barrels capacity. A four-inch pipe connects it with the +kitchen waste, and if the grease sink is placed adjacent to the main +drain, there can be a similar connection between it and the main drain. +It should be a siphon connection, so that the sink will become nearly +full before it discharges. When it discharges through the siphon the +water will go out with a rush and leave the grease in the sink. This +makes an intermittent discharge into the main drain, which flushes or +cleanses it thoroughly and is much better than a constant small flow of +water. This grease sink must be cleaned from time to time. Small +cast-iron grease sinks are sometimes placed under kitchen sinks in very +large dwellings or hotels. + +Nothing particular need be said in regard to wash-stands more than has +been said, excepting, possibly, that the drain should be trapped, +ventilated, and connected with the soil pipe; also that there should be +a lead safe or safety pan on the floor under the wash-stand when they +are enclosed; it is preferable that they should remain unenclosed. It +has been common to connect this safe with the soil pipe. It is only +intended that it should be useful in cases of accidental overflow; but, +notwithstanding the fact that there be a trap in the safe waste or +drain, it would be empty most of the time, because of the evaporation of +the water. It is proper to make direct connection with the cellar or +kitchen sink. + +The bath-tub should have the same-sized drain connection as the +wash-stand; that is, one and one-half inch in diameter, trapped. The +overflows from both the wash-stand and tub should be flushed with hot +water quite frequently, to avoid the soap smells which are so common to +bath-rooms. It often happens that those who have bath-rooms in their +houses imagine that they smell sewer gas, when it is nothing more or +less than the smell of rancid soap. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + HEAT AND VENTILATION.--COMMON HEATING ARRANGEMENTS.--PRESENT + METHODS GENERALLY UNSATISFACTORY.--IDEAL CONDITIONS.--PROPER AMOUNT + OF MOISTURE RARELY ATTAINED.--A FURNACE DEFINED.--METHODS OF + REACHING BEST RESULTS.--SUPPLY OF PROPER AMOUNT OF + MOISTURE.--REMOVAL OF FOUL AIR.--SUPPLYING FRESH AIR WITH PROPER + MOISTURE FROM STOVES.--STEAM AND HOT WATER HEATING.--DIRECT AND + INDIRECT RADIATION.--LOW-COST HEATING APPARATUS. + + +It is only within a short time that the heating and ventilation of +buildings of any kind have been in any measure satisfactory. This +applies only to the largest buildings; the heating and ventilating of +smaller structures are still in an unsatisfactory condition. Most +dwelling-houses are heated with stoves, which, as now arranged, are not +successful. The same air is heated over and over again. Fresh air in the +proper quantities or from the proper source is not supplied to the +interior of the building. Grates are very well in their way in that they +take large quantities of air from the room. Thus far they ventilate. The +supply of air is necessarily irregular, unless special means are +provided. + +Furnaces are used for heating a very large number of houses. While they +are satisfactory in some respects, they are deficient in others. The +same thing may be said of steam, hot-water, or other heating apparatus. + +As the statement has been made that heating systems in general, as +applied to dwelling-houses, are unsatisfactory, it may be well to state +the fault, and what is to be desired. It is not the purpose to consider +this question chemically, or from a highly scientific standpoint; there +is no occasion for it. It is well to bear in mind that we are +considering the heating and ventilating of a house during cold weather, +and not its ventilation during the summer, when natural means are to be +relied upon. Then it may be asked, What is to be done? Primarily the air +should be at the proper temperature at all times; it should be in its +pure state, as found on the outside of the building, and not +contaminated with any of the gases of combustion. It should be supplied +with its proper equivalent of moisture at the temperature at which we +find it in the room. As it becomes impure from natural causes, there +should be some means of effecting its withdrawal. + +These are the ideal conditions. How far do they exist in practice? The +temperature is ordinarily high enough. The air of the room is apt to be +contaminated by the gases of combustion, and vitiated by breathing and +otherwise. Rarely indeed does it contain its proper equivalent of +moisture; it is dry and parched. Now that we know the conditions in +their ideal state and as they exist in fact, we will consider in detail +what may be done to bring about more satisfactory results. If the +heating apparatus be a furnace, it should be constructed of steel or +wrought-iron plate, the joints thoroughly riveted and calked; or, if of +other material, it should certainly be gas-tight. Every precaution +should be taken to prevent the passage of the air of combustion from the +furnace to the warm-air chambers and from thence to the rooms above. The +furnace is nothing more or less than a large stove with various +radiating arrangements, surrounded by an iron or brick enclosure, with a +supply of fresh air from the outside, and with connecting tin pipes to +the rooms above. It is important that the inner parts, the fire-pot, +the radiating surface, etc., be thoroughly well built and gas-tight, to +prevent the heated air from becoming contaminated by the gases of +combustion. The supply of outer air should be ample. It should be so +arranged that it can never be entirely cut off. The furnace should be of +sufficient capacity so that means of reducing the outer air supply +should not be necessary. However, if such arrangements are made, they +should be limited. + +The proper equivalent of moisture should be given to the air at the +temperature at which it reaches the room. It may be said that there is a +water-pan connected with every furnace, that will do everything +necessary in supplying moisture. This is a mistake. So far as I know, +the furnace or other heating apparatus for dwellings has not been +constructed which is provided with a proper evaporating apparatus. The +pan is set in the side of the furnace, with an opening to the outside +into which water may be poured. It is small, and has very little +evaporating surface on the inside. Oftentimes the joints at the outside +are so poorly made that the cold air from the cellar may be drawn in +over the water in the pan, and in that way prevent its proper +evaporation. Winter air heated to a summer temperature is dry and +parched, whereas natural summer air contains the proper amount of +moisture. The outer air during the winter time has its proper equivalent +of moisture for the winter temperature, which is a much smaller amount +than would belong to it at a higher temperature. Therefore when we take +winter air into the furnace or other heating apparatus, raise it to a +summer temperature, and carry it into a room, we have a very dry air, +which seeks its equivalent of moisture from the occupants of the room, +from the furniture, carpets, walls, ceiling, and everything in it. The +air will not take additional moisture unless that moisture be supplied +after it has reached a higher temperature. For instance, if a spray or +a series of wet blankets be arranged in the cold-air duct, before the +air gets to the furnace, the air will not take the moisture from that +spray or from the damp blankets. The moisture must be supplied after the +air is heated. Where the water-pan is set on the side of the furnace, +and where there is a supply of air through the pan from the cellar, as +there frequently is, evaporation is naturally retarded by the cold air, +as indicated. Again, if this pan be never so well protected, it is +small, the proper amount of evaporating surface is not presented. An +evaporating pan or other device should be placed above the fire-pot and +should occupy a large proportion of the area of the heating chamber. The +supply of water should not be dependent upon some one's attention. It +should be constant by means of a ball-cock or otherwise. It should run +into or drip into a shallow pan, or should be supplied to sheets of felt +or blanket so that the air will come in contact with the moist surfaces, +at the temperature at which it is to go into the room. Thus it has the +proper amount of moisture which belongs to it at that temperature. In +this way we have winter air from the outside going into the room at a +summer temperature and with a summer equivalent of moisture; that is, we +have summer air in the winter time. People sometimes undertake to get +around this by putting water-pans in the registers, but they are rarely +ample. They are neglected, or they interfere with the supply of warm +air, and are abandoned. + +Where a furnace is already in a house, or where it is not possible to +make elaborate arrangements for providing the air with moisture, there +is a very simple makeshift which is quite effective. It consists in +suspending in the registers in the floor small water receptacles--a +quart bucket answers every purpose--in which is placed a broad strip of +linen. This cloth should go to the bottom of the receptacle and be long +enough to hang over and below it for several inches. When the bucket is +filled with water this piece of cloth acts as a siphon, and carries the +water, a drop at a time, into the furnace-pipe, where it is converted +into steam. A piece of old table-linen is the best material to use, for +the reason that it carries the water fast enough, that the heat from the +furnace does not dry it out before it can drop into the pipe; otherwise +the cloth becomes dry at the end, and the siphonage ceases. For the same +reason it should be broad,--about twelve inches. Where a moderate heat +is carried through the furnace-pipe, three quarts of water may be +evaporated in this way in twenty-four hours from each bucket. A bucket +of the size mentioned does not in any way interfere with the passage of +heat. + +The next point for consideration is the means of getting the foul, +contaminated air to the outside. One way is through the use of grates. +Another is by means of ducts in the wall, opening near the floor, which +draw the foul air from the room to the outside. These should consist of +heated flues, with connecting registers in the ceiling and floor, which +may be open when necessary. Under any circumstances, the grate is best. +Sometimes the flue may be heated by a supply of warm air from the +furnace, or by a steam-pipe in case steam is used for heating the house. +In natural-gas regions, the supply of additional heat in a flue from a +furnace or by a jet would be a small matter. + +We have mentioned heating by stoves, grates, and furnaces. The same +principles which apply to the furnishing of fresh air to a furnace may +be applied to a stove. The fact is, they never have been. A stove should +be made, and will be made some day, that is surrounded on the outside by +a second jacket, the space between being connected with the outer air by +means of a tin tube to the under side of the stove. The supply of cold +air could be so arranged as to be shut off when there was no heat in the +stove. The warm air would pass out at the top of the jacket. On top of +the stove could be placed an evaporating pan, and the supply of moisture +come therefrom. In connection with the stove-pipe, which should be +jacketed, a second ventilating flue, starting from the floor and having +an opening both above and below, could be arranged, and in that way the +supply of fresh air and withdrawal of impure air could be accomplished. + +Next we may speak of steam and hot-water heating. So far as a change of +air and the ventilation of the room are concerned, heating by direct +radiation, that is, by radiators placed in the room, is no better than +stove heating. It may be that the air is not so severely parched by the +extreme heat, also the escape of steam may contribute somewhat to the +moisture of the air; but the escape of steam is not agreeable, and is +not allowed to exist to any great extent;--its odor is not always +pleasant. Certainly the addition of moisture to the air by this means +would be a mere makeshift and unsatisfactory. + +Hot-water coils act the same as steam radiators in that they heat the +same air over and over again, and are no better than stoves, so far as +the provision for fresh air, at proper temperature and humidity, is +concerned. + +A steam or hot-water apparatus, with indirect radiation, is superior to +furnace heat as ordinarily provided. The means of supplying moisture to +an indirect steam apparatus, as ordinarily constructed, are not +convenient. There is a radiator for each hot-air connection above, that +is, a radiator for each register, with a distinct and direct supply of +outer air thereto. Sometimes there are two registers connecting with a +single radiator. But under any circumstances the radiators are somewhat +separated, having steam or water connection with the boiler at the +proper point. Steam apparatus for public buildings has been constructed +where the radiators have been bunched, that is, put into a single +chamber, the air passing through the chamber containing the radiators, +where it is heated to the proper temperature, and the moisture +afterwards supplied before it enters the room. Where this arrangement is +used, there must be conductors, tin or otherwise, from the chamber to +the register, as in the case of a furnace. Again, it will be found that +the supply of air will not be uniform through all of the openings; for +instance, the register that is farthest removed from the warm-air +chamber may fail to act. In this event, auxiliary radiators may be +placed under that register, and the operation of the heating apparatus +greatly facilitated thereby. This plan is superior to a furnace, and can +be applied to hot-water or steam apparatus in dwellings. The reason that +it is superior to a furnace is that the supply of heat is more uniform. +It does not require the constant firing or attention that is necessary +in the case of a hot-air furnace. It may be known that the temperature +does not change with the pressure of steam or in the same proportion. + +There are inexpensive automatic arrangements in connection with furnaces +and steam apparatus, which control the dampers and keep the steam +pressure measurably uniform, as long as there is fuel of sufficient +quantity in the fire-pot. The hot-water apparatus is more uniform in its +operation than steam, and for that reason more satisfactory. + +A furnace plant is the most inexpensive apparatus that may be used for +general heating; the steam apparatus is next higher as to first cost, +though no more expensive in amount of fuel used. The hot-water apparatus +costs more than steam, and is somewhat more economical in the cost of +maintenance. It is probable that a house of moderate size can be warmed +all over at a less cost, as far as fuel is concerned, by a furnace or a +steam or hot-water heating apparatus than by stoves and grates. However, +grates are generally used in addition to these for the purpose of +comfort and appearance, and for ventilating. Under such circumstances, +they consume very little fuel. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + HEATING DEVICES AS WE FIND THEM.--FURNACE ESTIMATES.--COMBINATION + HOT AIR AND HOT WATER.--DISH-WARMING ARRANGEMENTS.--HOW TO GET A + GOOD HEATING APPARATUS. + + +For the present, people who build must take things as they find them, +and use heating and ventilating apparatus as regularly manufactured. +Experiments are uncertain. The theory of the proper heating and +ventilating of a house as set forth in previous chapter is correct. The +fulfilment of the ideas in dwelling-house heating remains to be +practically worked out. It is not the business of the architect, or the +housewife, or the owner of the house, to work out these mechanical +details. It will be done in time by competent mechanical experts. + +In the estimates subsequently given, the furnace is the only means +considered for general heating. However, this does not indicate a +prejudice in favor of that particular method. The furnace is considered +and figured upon as the ordinary method of heating houses of moderate +cost. It is the least expensive plant to be used for general heating. +Indirect radiation from hot water or steam is to be preferred to a +furnace. A combination of a hot-air furnace with hot water, or steam, is +used with fair success. In this case, a hot-water coil is placed in an +ordinary furnace, which connects with hot-water radiators in a +conservatory or other room for the purpose of contributing a uniform +degree of heat to that room. The water supply is a tank, located well +above the level of the radiators, and connecting through an inlet pipe +with the coil in the furnace. The proper means of supplying this tank +with water is through a ball-cock or float-cock, the float of which +opens the valve when the water gets low in the tank. Thus the supply is +as constant as the source. A hot-water radiator of this kind may be used +in connection with a device for warming dishes or keeping food warm. The +heat is gentle, uniform, and constant. This is a general advantage of +all hot-water heating. + +Aside from the automatic arrangements for controlling the steam or water +pressure in the heating apparatus, and thus measurably controlling the +temperature in the building, other more positive automatic arrangements +are provided which undertake to maintain any fixed temperature. These +are proprietary devices, patented and advertised. + +Complaints are made of the general inefficiency of everything under the +sun: hence, furnaces and other heating apparatus come in for their +share. An architect is sometimes asked how he would heat a certain +building. He answers, "Hot water, steam, or furnace."--"Oh, I wouldn't +have steam. My uncle had a steam plant in his house, and they nearly +froze to death all last winter; and they burned over a ton of coal a +week." The same things are said, and truly, of every kind of heating +apparatus made, when we consider them in general classes. General +complaints of a similar nature are made of everything. In regard to the +steam plant or hot-water apparatus, or anything else of which this thing +may have been said, one may first acknowledge its truthfulness, and then +consider what it all means. Something is at fault. It may be that the +whole design of the apparatus is faulty. The design may be right, and +the construction bad. Everything else may be right, but the apparatus +too small; or there may be some little defect which has to do with the +placing of the apparatus in the house. Sometimes, when everything is in +good form, the apparatus does not receive proper attention: hence +trouble. + +It may be asked how one is to get a good heating apparatus for a +dwelling-house. The first thing to be determined is, the particular kind +to be used: whether hot-water, steam, or hot-air furnace. There are many +manufacturers of the various apparatus, who are regularly in the +business. To these may be submitted plans of the building, and a request +for estimates and suggestions. It is the experience of an architect that +one who is putting money regularly in the manufacture or production of +anything will not waste his energies for a great length of time on a bad +thing, if he knows it. The evidence that an establishment has been +putting up good furnaces or other heating apparatus is long-continued +business success. If the owner of a house writes to an old-established, +wealthy concern, and sends his plans, he is as certain to get a reliable +proposition as he can be of anything. A local agent of an establishment +of this kind may misrepresent, unintentionally or otherwise. The surest +way is to go to headquarters. The local agent does not always know +exactly what should be done. A competent architect can settle all these +matters for an owner. However, if an architect says there are only one +or two furnaces or heating apparatus which are all right, he is either +ignorant or dishonest. There are many different kinds which will give +fair satisfaction. + +The idea in this chapter is to take things as we find them, and suggest +what may be done. The theories outlined in the previous chapter may be +correct, but they do not amount to anything to a man who is building +to-day. The only purpose of this chapter is to suggest to those who are +building that they go to a first-class house, pay a fair price, and get +the best possible apparatus regularly in the market. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + THE HOUSE AND ITS BEAUTY.--ARTISTIC SURROUNDINGS.--BEAUTY MORE A + MATTER OF INTELLIGENCE THAN MONEY.--VESTIBULE DECORATIONS.--BEAUTY + IN THE RECEPTION-HALL.--MANTELS AND GRATES.--FRET-WORK AND + PORTIÈRES.--SPINDLE WORK.--SIMPLE FORMS OF GOOD + DECORATION.--WOOD-CARVING.--DOOR AND WINDOW CASINGS.--A + CONSERVATORY.--STAINED GLASS.--A CABINET ON THE MANTEL.--TINTED + PLASTERING.--FRESCOING.--SAFETY IN THE SELECTION OF COLORS.--AN + ATTRACTIVE SITTING-ROOM.--THE PARLOR.--A RECEPTION-ROOM.--PARLOR + HISTORY.--THE IDEAL PARLOR.--THE LIBRARY.--A PLACE OF QUIET AND + REST.--LIBRARY FURNISHINGS.--THE DINING-ROOM.--SOCIAL RELATIONS OF + THE DINING-ROOM.--DINING-ROOM DECORATIONS.--CONSERVATORY AND + DINING-ROOM.--A WOOD CEILING.--BEAUTY IN BEDROOMS.--QUIET AND + LIGHT. + + +The journey through the house is hardly complete until we abandon the +material view, and consider it from the standpoint of beauty. As is said +in another connection, the architect does not do his full duty in making +a house a model of convenience and utility. The housekeeper always looks +toward a beautiful home, something that will be recognized for its +beauty and elegance. A house that is beautiful and attractive gives +pleasure to all who see it, as well as to the occupants. A beautiful, +artistic house is a source of education to the occupants. A porch with +clumsy columns, rude mouldings, heavy ceiling, coarse details of all +kinds, cannot but affect one's living. One that is fine in detail, +generous in size, decorated in artistic spirit, must of necessity not +alone contribute to the comfort of those who live in the house, but +serve to lift them from that which is common and ordinary. People may be +surrounded by that which is beautiful and artistic, and for a time fail +to realize its true excellence, or they may be surrounded with that +which is homely and crude without knowing the full measure of its +ugliness. The time must come, however, when the truth will be realized +to a certain extent. If it is in the direction of the appreciation of +what is beautiful, it must necessarily bring about a higher state of +mind. No man can walk across a front porch, time after time, and take +hold of a beautiful door, without being affected by it. For this reason +the vestibule, the front door, and all that belongs to it, should be +designed in a thoughtful spirit, with the idea that it is the first of +all things that will impress those who enter the house. There may not be +much money to put into this door, but what there is may as well bring +something beautiful as something ugly. The same money that will make an +ugly detail will make a beautiful, artistic one. If the glass of this +door must be inexpensive, let it be the ordinary cathedral glass. +Instead of being brilliant in color, select a soft, mild tint,--a light +amber or a straw color. If there are divisions in the door so that a +number of sheets may be used, two tints at most are all that are +necessary. It is best that they should be quiet in tone. If money is +more abundant, and an elaborate stained-glass design may be had, put the +work in the hands of an artist, one who is well known, and the result +cannot but be satisfactory. As to the door itself, nothing can be nicer +than natural wood, properly finished. The detail of the design should be +refined; there should be an avoidance of all that is clumsy and heavy. +The spirit of the interior may be stamped upon this door. Where one +cannot encompass the expense of an artistically designed glass for the +door or vestibule opening, a very pretty effect may be secured by the +use of a plain sheet of plate-glass; or, if desired, a slight additional +expense will give glass with bevelled edges. Sometimes this bevelled +glass is in small squares, with leaded joints. This gives a very simple +and rich effect from either side. + +As one opens this door and steps into the vestibule, there may come to +his sight a beautiful mantel and grate-fire in the reception-hall +beyond. This is particularly beautiful when shown through the folds of a +tapestry curtain which separates the vestibule from the reception-hall. +Sometimes this vestibule is arranged so that there is a small window at +one side of it. Nothing can be nicer than to have this filled with +glass, of the same general design as that of the door. The hooks for +wraps should be of polished brass, secured to a natural-wood strip. An +umbrella-stand of the same material is attractive. The floor is best of +hard wood, all but covered with a heavy rug. This is a pleasant place to +stop a moment, with a more beautiful view beyond. + +A reception-hall is, from an architectural standpoint, the easiest room +in the house to handle; that is, it can easily be made to look well. +This is because of its connection with the vestibule, the stairway, the +grate, often a window-seat, the large openings into the other rooms, and +the portières which go with them. All these things combine well to make +a pretty room. Stairways, as now designed, are much more beautiful than +those made a few years ago. Then it was a habit to start at one end of +the hall and continue to the second floor in a single run, with winders +only at the upper end, to change the direction of the movement. Now it +is common to have at least two landings in each run; oftentimes there +will be only two or three steps, then a landing, from which steps lead +to another near the top. At the beginning of the stairway there are the +newel posts, and at each landing a corner post. This arrangement +frequently admits of the placing of a seat along one side of the outer +part of the lower landing. If not that, possibly one along the side of +the stairway, below the run of steps which starts from the lower +landing. The space between the railing and the steps is usually occupied +by turned balusters, though there are many forms of filling and +decorating this space. Sometimes it is of turned spindle-work, +scroll-work, fret-work, and squares or panels, arranged in different +forms. + +It is not unusual to have stained-glass windows at each landing. These +windows are not necessarily large, and are usually hung on hinges. +Sometimes a small bay-window projection is made from one or both of +these landings. In them may be placed seats, and in this way add beauty +and convenience to the room. It is quite usual to cover the +reception-hall with rugs rather than carpets. The hard-wood floor idea +probably had its origin in the reception-hall. If it ever takes its +departure it will be first from this room. If a hard-wood floor is not +largely covered with rugs it requires a great deal of labor. + +The mantel in the reception-hall should be of wood. It is pleasant to +have the larger part of the entire setting made of tile. These tiles are +now made in most beautiful designs and colorings. Beautiful figured +designs may be had, if not for the entire facing, for certain parts. It +is not uncommon that only a narrow margin of wood-work borders the sides +of a mantel of this kind. The shelf and cabinet above may be as +ornamental as desired. No treatment of wood-work can add to the beauty +of a large surface of tile facing. In some instances, no shelf is +provided; simply a bevelled facing, with a margin of woodwork, not over +an inch wide, to cover the joint where the tiling comes in contact with +the plaster. The hearth should be large. The grate border is best of +brass. + +The walls of the reception-hall may have a gray plaster finish, or be +tinted or papered, as desired. The picture moulding may come pretty well +down from the ceiling; certainly not higher than the tops of the doors. +The part below may be tinted in one color, and the upper, in another. +The picture moulding should always be of the same kind of wood as the +finish, and not gilded or treated in any other highly artificial manner. + +The openings into other rooms, even where sliding or hinged doors are +used, are frequently filled a short distance from their top with what is +popularly called fret-work. It may be fret-work, pure and simple, or +spindle-work, or simply scroll-work. It is a very pleasing form of +ornamentation. The curtains come below. In one of the plans furnished, +the entire vestibule is made up of turned work, which, with a curtain, +is the only separation from the main hall. Sometimes arches are +decorated in the same manner, and the space between the circle and frame +is filled with these ornamental forms. A very simple way of making +screens is by the use of thin quartered oak-strips, woven into basket +patterns of ornamental form. + +Only one general design of door and window casings is shown in this +book. There is no limit to the ornamental forms which may be used in +decorating casings of any kind. During recent years, many ladies have +used their energy and ability in the direction of wood-carving, and, +under competent instruction, have done good work. For the most part, the +patterns are in low relief. The designs are frequently conventionalized, +foliated patterns. In the smaller communities it is hardly possible to +get good carving through ordinary channels, for the reason that there +is not a sufficient amount of this kind of work to be done to justify a +high grade of talent in occupying so unprofitable a field. It is +unfortunately true, however, that very few workmen who can carve at all, +but have an idea that they do this kind of work exceedingly well. No +matter how crude their efforts may be, there is no lack of +self-appreciation. They profess to be able to do that of which they are +entirely ignorant. It is best to be content with the simple mechanical +forms of interior wood-decoration, unless there are those of known and +recognized ability, who are capable of executing the more artistic +patterns. + +Door and window casings are made much narrower and less complex than was +the custom several years ago. + +The sitting-room of the lower floor is more clearly defined by the term +"living-room." It is a room with much more wall space than the +reception-hall. It usually contains a grate and mantel; has a large +window to the front, and one on the side. It is very nice if one of +these windows can be arranged in the form of a bay, with or without a +window-seat. In the latter case, it may serve the purpose of a +conservatory in the winter and a window-seat in summer. The use of large +quantities of stained glass in a sitting-room is objectionable. It is +very well to have a certain amount of it in the upper sash of some of +the windows. If the colors are mild, the effect upon the atmosphere of +the room is pleasant indeed--the light coming through the soft amber or +straw tints adds a mellowness and richness to the light of the room, +which is opposed to the colder effects of light which comes through +white glass. The mantel of the sitting-room may contain a large number +of compartments in the form of small shelves, brackets, or cabinets, in +which may be placed bric-à -brac of various forms. A little cabinet on +each side of a mantel, with a high door, is a very pretty feature. A +mirror between these cabinets gives a pleasing effect. This mantel, like +the one in the reception-room, should be of wood with tile hearth and +facings. + +If this room is plastered in a gray finish, the walls may be tinted in +fresco colors, and, if desired, certain parts of it ornamented by +stencilling or otherwise. Unless this ornamental work is done by an +artist of recognized ability, it should be of the simplest character. +One or two simple lines, or a series of short dashes, is much better +than scrawling figures drawn by an untrained hand. The ordinary fresco +done by the foreign artist is the ugliest, most ungraceful work +possible. In the larger cities, there are usually a few artists who do +very beautiful work, but the ordinary, cheap, conventional fresco stuff +is barbarous. Plain tinted walls are preferable to such glaring +monstrosities. There is not much risk, if one is careful in the +selection of colors; the part above the picture moulding may be tinted +differently from that below. There are very few people but feel +themselves competent to select colors for the interior or exterior of a +house. The fact is, there are very few who can do it with any assurance +of success. It is well for those who have no special training in this +line to pursue a safe plan in the selection of tints for the walls and +ceilings. This may be done by choosing different shades of the same +color for use in the room. Say one begins with a terra-cotta body for +the part below the picture mould. That above the moulding may be a +lighter terra-cotta with a tendency to a buff. Then the ceiling may be +lighter still, or, to be entirely safe under almost any circumstances, a +gray with a leaning towards the color of the wall. Other colors may be +selected in the same way. Very light, vivid blues have frequently been +selected for ceilings, presumably because of the supposed resemblance +to the sky. It is certainly an illogical but by no means uncommon +thought. Soft, undecided grays are much pleasanter to those of quiet +tastes. There may be variations in it according to the character of the +wall decorations and surroundings. If one without special knowledge +wishes something more ambitious, he should consult some one of +acknowledged ability in this particular line. One cannot afford to try +experiments. Extremely beautiful wall decorations are to be had in +wall-paperings, and, while rather expensive, are entirely satisfactory +if carefully selected. + +Very little more may be said about the sitting-room, excepting to call +to mind that a great deal depends upon the fittings and furnishings of +the room, which, however, should not be glaring or rich. The quality of +everything may be of the finest and best, yet this room should +essentially be quieter in tone than the reception-hall or parlor, or +even dining-room, which are not in constant use. Anything which is rich +and in any way approaches the gorgeous is wearisome, and directly +opposed to the idea of a sitting-room. + +The parlor may be merely a reception-room,--a room where a lady may +receive her callers in the afternoon, or the more formal calls of ladies +and gentlemen in the evening, or it may be one room in addition to the +others in the lower part of the house. It may be the room which adds +capacity to the lower floor during times of general entertaining. In +some cases, particularly where the parlor is merely used as a +reception-room, it need not be large. In such a case it is merely a +place separated from the sitting-room, and in which to go for the +purpose of receiving friends in a room somewhat removed from the slight +confusion which may legitimately belong to a sitting-room. The parlor is +made distinctive in its appearance from the sitting-room by its +furnishings. It is not usual to have any great difference in the design +of the wood-work in the different rooms of the lower floor. Generally +speaking, the doors are of the same design, and likewise the casings, +base, etc. The parlor belongs particularly to the society life of the +occupants of the house. It is not generally a family room. It is removed +from the ordinary home life except in so far as the general social +conditions draw all together. The parlor, in its connection with the +living-rooms of the house, and the house itself, is entirely legitimate. +There is a good deal of sneering at the old parlor idea. This feeling +has its origin in the memory of the parlors of a few years ago,--those +which contained the one Brussels carpet, covered with red and green +flowers, furnished with black hair-cloth furniture, chairs arranged +around the wall in military style, a sofa--stiff of back and commanding +an attitude--in a most conspicuous position; walls covered with +coarse-figured, gilt paper, and rendered more offensive by cheap, family +portraits in oil, and elaborately framed chromos. + +The parlor of to-day is still a formal room; it does not greatly differ +from the older one in idea; it is the execution of the idea which has +changed. There is a greater refinement in all the details; there is an +artistic spirit which pervades everything. There is harmony of color, +quietness in tone. The pictures are of a different character. The +furniture is graceful and comfortable. It is rarely separated from the +other part of the house. The doors leading into it are nearly always +open. Oftentimes there are only portières of tapestry or lace to +separate this room from the others which lead to it. It is a room which +is made necessary by the social life of the time. + +The ideal parlor is a long room,--a large room. It is long in +proportion to its width. Sometimes there is an archway near the middle, +which suggests the division of the room into two parts. There is a +mirror at the end, and, lending dignity to the room, there is the hall +or library at one side. By its size, its arrangement, its dignity, it is +inspiring to a congenial company. This is the ideal parlor, and the one +of which the vulgarly furnished parlor of a few years ago was a +corruption. The ideal parlor is shown in its completest original form in +some of the old mansions of the East and South. Some of the old Virginia +and Maryland houses carry out this idea in the completest way. In +Natchez, Miss., are houses built long before the war, and designed by +the French architects, which contain parlors of splendid proportions and +most artistic details. These were designed in the purest classic +architecture. The ceilings were high, the paintings rich. All this is +somewhat removed from the common idea of a parlor as carried out at this +time. However, it is a pleasant thing to look back upon, or, when the +opportunity and means are at hand, a proper thing to enjoy in the +reality. + +The library, as now understood, is, in the ordinary house, a room for +books, papers, and magazines, in which the members of the family may +gather, who have use for that which it contains. It should be a room +which may be isolated from the other parts of the house; a room in which +one may study or read or write, and have the quiet which belongs to such +occupations. A room which may be used as a passage from one part of the +house to another cannot be dignified by the name of library. In such a +room there must be quiet. There are very few homes to which such a room +would not be a material and practical addition. There are times when +nearly every one desires the quiet and freedom from interruption which a +room of this kind affords. + +It need not be a large room, but should contain all of the paraphernalia +of work: a desk, conveniently arranged, bookshelves which are readily +accessible, possibly portfolios arranged along the walls, drawers with +proper compartments, cases for circulars and catalogues, and other +"places for things." The nicest thing about book-cases is the books. +Ornamental glass doors and rich trappings add nothing to the beauty of +the library. People who make large use of books do not care to have them +protected by glass cases. The other furnishings and fittings of a +library should be quiet in tone, the chairs easy but not rich, the +carpet of a neutral color, the wall decorations preferably without +figured outlines, the pictures small and quiet. Sliding doors between +the library and any other room of the house are not to be considered. +Close-fitting doors on hinges are proper. They exclude the sound. +Sliding doors permit the ready passage of sound, for the reason that +they are more or less open at top, bottom, middle, and sides. A low +ceiling in a library adds to the quiet and restful effect. One may have +a low ceiling in a library, even if they are higher in other rooms, by +studding down from above,--that is, putting in a false ceiling. The +expense is light indeed, and by such means additional protection from +the sounds above may be afforded. + +The dining-room, in many houses, is the room in which the entire family +is gathered, perhaps for the only time during the day. In this sense it +is an assembly room. There is in this busy country a growing respect for +the social value of the dining-room. In the family meetings at the +table, there may be an interchange of experiences that does not occur at +other times, for the reason that there is no opportunity for it. After +the meals the members of the family go to their various occupations, and +probably do not come together until another meal. These facts may be +considered in the planning of a dining-room. + +We have thought of this room before in its mechanical sense; we have +looked at it through housekeeping eyes. We have now to consider its +artistic and social features. We look at it as one of the family rooms. +It has its shape or proportion suggested to it from the table. It is +oblong. The light coming into it should be ample, but subdued in tone. +It is pleasant, as one enters a dining-room, to come into full view of a +sideboard which is decorated with that which belongs to this room in a +utilitarian way--its china, cut glass, and beautiful linen, than which +nothing can be more attractive. + +It is a pleasant thing to have a conservatory attached to one side or at +a corner of the dining-room. The odor of flowers or plants may not be +agreeable constantly in a sitting-room. The periodical occupation of the +dining-room makes this pleasant rather than otherwise. Most of the plans +which are shown will admit of the placing of a conservatory in +connection with the dining-room in the manner indicated. + +The old English dining-room was large in its general proportions, and +heavy and rich as to its details; it was so large and impressive that +there was an offshoot which took form in a breakfast-room. In our homes +at this time we have the compromise. Our habits of living do not demand +the breakfast-room: all come to breakfast together, and the requirement +is the same as for other meals. + +Where one wishes to have a wood ceiling panelled or with decorated +beams, the dining-room, or the hall connecting with it, may be chosen as +the proper place to be treated in this way. Where expense is not a great +object, it is agreeable to have a large part of the walls finished in +wood. A wood finish one-half to two-thirds the height of the wall, and +a ceiling of wood above, with the intervening space finished in rough, +tinted plaster, gives a very pleasing effect. Projecting from the top of +the wood wall-finish may be a little shelf extending, say, five inches +beyond the wall. It may have a simple moulded edge. In the top may be +cut grooves; on the under edge may be arranged, at regular intervals, +cup hooks, which may be used in part for suspending china, or, upon +certain occasions, as a means of securing floral decorations--say, a +little train of ivy or smilax. On the upper part of the shelf are placed +pieces of china. This shelf may be placed in any dining-room; if not +around the entire room, between two windows, or between the chimney +breast and the adjacent wall. Six feet from the floor is a good height. +If it is not overloaded, or if the idea is not generally overworked, the +effect will be very satisfactory. + +The coloring of a dining-room may be a little heavier and richer than +that of the other rooms. A very pretty feature which maybe introduced in +a room of this kind is a china-closet, which opens into the dining-room +as well as into the china-room adjoining. The dining-room side of the +china-closet should be glazed with clear glass above its lower section, +and the china-room or back side of the china-closet should be glazed +with cathedral glass of a semi-transparent character. There are doors on +hinges on each side. The drawers in the lower part, if provided, open +from both sides. If doors are used they should be arranged in the same +way, so that the lower shelves may be approached from both dining-room +and china-room. The glass door on the dining-room side should not come +down to the shelf at the top of the lower section, but should be +arranged to leave an open space, as is indicated in the chapter on +kitchens and pantries. However, the doors on the china-room side of +this closet should come down, so as to cut off communication between +dining-room and china-room at will. This space between the upper and +lower section of the china-closet gives space in which to set a tray, +and, by opening a door on the back, it acts as a slide between the +china-room and dining-room. This arrangement is not only very beautiful, +but very useful. See china-closet plan Fig. 5, page 46. + +The conservatory mentioned does not need to be in conventional +conservatory form, which usually has cheap glazing and often common +wood-work, but may be a bay-window with more than an ordinary amount of +glass, preferably plate. + +The chambers and bedrooms, in their ideal form of arrangement, have an +abundance of light and sun, ample means for ventilation, and a greater +air of restfulness and airiness than the rooms below. The carpets are in +lighter tints, the walls more nearly white, the windows not so heavily +draped, the pictures and frames of a lighter character, the chairs not +so heavy as those of the other rooms. From a chamber it is sometimes +desirable to have a bay window projecting from side or front. It adds to +the availability of the other floor space, affords additional light and +ventilation. Nothing can be nicer than a grate fire in a bedroom. It +should be surrounded with a wood mantel, with tile facing and hearth. +Above the mantel it is useful to have a short plate-glass mirror. A +dressing-case takes its proper place on the side wall between two +windows, or in a corner with a window in each wall adjacent to it. +Bedrooms are, for the most part, lighted with brackets rather than +central lights. When attainable, a small dressing-room adds to the +attractiveness of a chamber. + +In some houses there may be an alcove, a bay window, a window-seat, a +conservatory, or something of this kind, from every principal room. +These are features which add to the beauty and attractiveness of the +house. While all of these things are not possible in every home, some +one or two of them may be attainable. In mentioning the various details +which go to make the beauty of a house, it is in mind that all these +features can be taken into account in but a very small proportion of all +the houses that are built, yet some one or more of them may be used in +every house, and thereby add to its attractiveness. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL DESIGN.--AN OLD TOPIC BEFORE THE PEOPLE.--THE + ARCHITECTURAL STUDENT'S DREAM.--A BEAUTIFUL HOME THE HOUSEKEEPER'S + AMBITION.--IT COSTS NO MORE TO HAVE A HOUSE BEAUTIFUL THAN + UGLY.--ARCHITECTURAL EDUCATION.--CHARLES EASTLAKE'S BOOK.--VULGAR + ARCHITECTURAL REVIVALS.--THE GROWTH OF THE ARTISTIC IDEA.--BEAUTY A + MATTER OF REFINEMENT. + + +It often happens when one gives especial attention to a particular +branch of a subject his neglect in other lines is measured by the depth +of his attention to the particular branch. Matters which have to do with +the utilitarian features of house-building are considered in this work +much more fully in the text, than has the appearance of the buildings. +It is desired that this fact will not lead any one to believe that +matters relating to the appearance of the exterior have been neglected. +Domestic architecture is an old topic before the people. It is old in +what has been said in regard to the appearance of the buildings. The +subject, as a science to the architect, is new when considered from the +standpoint of convenience. The architectural student's dream is not of +kitchens, pantries, closets, convenient and economical arrangements of +floor space, but is principally of large public buildings, libraries, +court-houses, and cathedrals. When he descends to dwelling-houses, it is +of something unique, or odd,--something that is pretty or rich. When it +relates to details, it is hallways that are peculiar in their beauty, +parlors and sitting-rooms that are full of odd conceits. There has been +a tendency toward strange things during recent years. Matters of this +kind have fed the fancy of many architects. The housekeeper has been +neglected. + +Nothing attracts more attention than a beautiful house. It is a pleasure +to every one. It is as important to have a house beautiful as it is that +it should be convenient. The same education and thoughtfulness that will +enable an architect to design a convenient house will make it beautiful. +No one can be conscientious in the consideration of the comfort of the +housekeeper and neglect the smallest detail leading to the beauty of the +house. The housekeeper lives in the hope of having a beautiful home. It +has been the purpose, in writing this book, to bear all this in mind, +and to add the element of convenience to what has been said and done by +others toward making beautiful houses. + +It costs no more to have a house beautiful than to have it ugly. Beauty, +like convenience, is largely a matter of thoughtfulness and education. +The only excuse for ugliness in house-building is ignorance. The student +of architecture has had a great deal done for him. And, in considering +that which has to do with appearance, he has only to accept the +advantages of the best architectural schools and offices. Without these +he cannot expect to succeed. To be a designer of beautiful houses, one +must have had the same special training and advantages that are +necessary for success in other lines of professional work. A physician +must know the history of his profession, aside from the more formal +knowledge which leads him through his practice. It is the same way with +the student of architecture. The successful designer of a small cottage +will do better from having a knowledge of the history of early +architecture. Such a knowledge is indispensable, in order to reach the +best results. One who has made a study of Greek architecture is much +better equipped to design a beautiful low-cost cottage, of four or five +rooms, than one who has not availed himself of these advantages. He will +make a better house for the same money. He will do better work with +simpler means. To take another illustration: We may suppose that an +architect has a porch to design, and that the owner of the house does +not have a great deal of money to put in it. There are four turned +columns, a cornice, with a rafter finish, and underneath, a space in +which may be inserted a small band of inexpensive scroll-work. A +knowledge of the earlier architecture comes to his assistance in a +wonderful way. For the turning on the columns the architect may select +that from a column of the early English Gothic architecture of the +fourteenth century. These are simple profiles, which can be turned at no +greater cost, if the drawing is furnished, than some crude, modern +invention of the turner or an uneducated designer. For the jig or scroll +saw work, he can arrange figures from some of the earlier ornamental +forms of the same period, and by drawing them full size the +scroll-sawyer can reproduce a beautiful design, which has a history, +with no more labor than he would give some corrupted design which has +filtered through the minds of careless house-builders. For his rafter +feet, this designer will have no difficulty in recalling some simple +form which has had a refined development. This same line of procedure +can be followed in all details of house-building, and not add one dollar +to the cost of the structure. At the same time it brings about most +beautiful results,--the results of successful experience. + +It may be said again that it takes no more money to make a beautiful +detail--one which has been the development of experience and +refinement--than it does something which is clumsy and coarse. It +requires, however, a knowledge of what has been done,--a knowledge of +the history of design. It requires the faculty of using intelligently +the results of the past, not merely as they originally existed, but in +their adaptation to the wants and conditions of the present. + +Several years ago Mr. Charles Eastlake wrote a book entitled "Hints on +Household Taste." The book accomplished a great deal, by merely leading +people to think. To this day there are a great many architectural +features which, in the builder's parlance, go under the name of +"Eastlake" designs. There are so-called Eastlake doors, Eastlake frames, +etc. In truth, Mr. Eastlake had little to say about architecture in a +distinctive sense, and many evil things have been perpetrated in his +name. The best thing that Mr. Eastlake did was to teach people that the +furniture and other things which they had around them could be beautiful +and not expensive. That it was not necessary to have a chair or a piece +of wood-work loaded down with something called ornament, in order to be +beautiful. After this people lost confidence in the furniture +manufacturer, and did not depend solely on the price of his wares as a +measure of their elegance or attractiveness. This was the sole work of +Charles Eastlake, with the masses of the people. He was a missionary in +his way. A man of no particular knowledge in regard to architecture or +design, yet one who was the means of doing a great deal for +architecture. He taught people to look for beauty in simple things. + +After a time came a certain something in domestic architecture which was +designated as the "Queen-Anne" style. We all know what it is, yet it is +difficult to describe. The veritable Queen-Anne architecture meant +something; the "Queen-Anne" architecture of a few years ago meant +anything--particularly something that was pointed, erratic, and +unusual. It, however, did a good work. It enabled the architects to get +out of the old beaten paths. A great many beautiful houses were built, +which, by the public, were said to be in this style. The name "Queen +Anne" was the vehicle for the passage from an old conservatism, which +had to do only with the commonplace, to something which was fresh and +attractive. In this way a great many beautiful houses were built during +this so-called Queen-Anne revival. + +More recently there has been a movement toward the revival of the old +colonial architecture--a style that was developed by a class of educated +builders among the earlier settlers of this country. Their knowledge was +particularly of classic architecture of the period of the Italian +renaissance. A great many strange and unusual things are being +perpetrated in the name of old colonial architecture at this time. At +the same time, a great deal that is beautiful and refined is being built +in this style. In the work of the very recent period which has to do +with this architecture, one may find a great deal of encouragement. It +shows a decided re-action from the extravagant crudeness of the +so-called Queen-Anne architecture, and in the end we will reach +something that is rational and beautiful. + +Thus it is to be seen that, in whatever lines architecture is moving, we +shall find good work; that it is not so much the style that it is named, +as the resources of the designer: resources which have to do with his +education, and his disposition to select that which is fine and +beautiful--the sense which leads him to discriminate. + +[Illustration: FIGURE B.] + + + + +PLANS OF FIFTY CONVENIENT HOUSES. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + EVOLUTION OF A HOUSE-PLAN.--RESPECTABLE DIMENSIONS FOR A MODERATE + PRICE.--SIX PLANS.--COSTS, FROM $1,500 TO $2,600. + + +The number of times that a house has been built indicates the popularity +of the plan. Plan No. 1, in one form or another, has been used oftener +than any other in the book. Plans Nos. 1, 2, and 3 are more frequently +selected by people who do not keep a servant. This arrangement makes a +compact and low-cost house. There is a porch over which the small front +bedroom extends on the second story. In Plan No. 1 the hall is seven and +one-half by ten feet. There is a corner grate for the living-room and +the parlor. A stove might be used in the dining-room in a way to +moderate the temperature of the entire lower floor. + +There is one very large window opening into the dining-room. It is a +very pleasing thing to have the upper sash of the dining-room glazed +with simple colors of cathedral glass. This glass gives a very pleasant +tone to the light of the room, and, at the same time, excludes the hot +rays of the sun in summer. It is possible to dispense with outside +shutters when cathedral glass is used in the upper sashes. A metal rod +running across the window on the inside, on a level with the horizontal +dividing-rail of the window, may be made to carry curtains which will +exclude the view from the outside. Thus, in the glass, and by the aid of +the curtains, we have much that might be expected from the shutters. + +There is a china-pantry between the kitchen and dining-room. It is +lighted by a small window at one side. It serves as a passageway between +these two rooms, and thus keeps the odor of the cooking from the front +part of the house. The pastry pantry is immediately back of the +china-pantry, and is entered from the kitchen. It is also provided with +a small window. In the kitchen is a sink with a swinging table at one +side, and room for a portable table on the other. At one side of the +sink may be the cistern-pump, and on the other side the well-pump. It +should be placed back against the wall, and with handles that are well +out of the way when not in use. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 1.] + +It is entirely unnecessary to place the pumps in the yards of low-cost +houses, as is so common. If a driven well is used, it could be driven +so as to be next to the kitchen sink. If it is a dug well, it may be +placed on the outside, and connected through lead pipes with the sink on +the inside. The cistern may be connected in the same way. The entrance +to the cellar stairs is conveniently placed in one corner of the +kitchen. The cellar itself is under the sitting-room. The side-porch is +large enough to be used as a summer kitchen. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 2.] + +It is to be noticed that there is no waste room in the upstairs hall. +There is merely wall space enough to admit of doors leading into the +various rooms. There is a small window which lights this hall; the +window may be reached for cleaning from the stairway. This plan +illustrates as clearly as possible the advantage of having the main +stairway land in the middle of the house. There is no better way to +economical use of space. From the second-floor hall there is a stairway +leading to the attic. This passage is lighted in the same way as the +second-floor hall. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 3.] + +It may be said that the bedrooms of this house are not large. The house +is not large. The problem involved a low-cost, roomy house. We get a +large number of rooms within a small enclosure, and, necessarily, some +of them are small. It is to be borne in mind, however, that the value of +a room is not dependent upon its size. A room may be of respectable +dimensions, but yet not have the necessary wall space for the furniture. +Such a room would not be as satisfactory as a smaller one, had care been +taken to provide this space. In each bedroom there should be space for a +bed, a wash-stand, and a dressing-case. The latter should be near a +window. It will be found that there is room for such furniture in each +of the bedrooms shown on this plan. All are provided with ample closets. +In one of these houses which was built, there was a door between the +bedroom in front and the chamber. In another case, there was a door +connecting the two larger rooms. All these things are matters of +personal preference, or special family requirements, depending upon the +age and number of the children, and other family conditions. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 4.] + +Plan No. 2 is similar to No. 1, excepting that there are a few changes +in detail. The rooms are smaller; the hall is relatively shorter; it +illustrates the process of contraction. No. 3 is similar to No. 2, +excepting that it has a front as well as a rear stairway, and the +position of the dining-room is changed. + +No. 4 is a development of the same class of plans. There are the front +and the rear stairways, also a bath-room over the kitchen, and a +servant's room. The dotted lines running through the little bedroom on +the second floor indicate the position of a hall, which may be +constructed connecting the front and rear part of this house. As will be +noticed, this is a nine-room house in a very economical form. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 5.] + +Plan No. 5 is a further development and improvement of the same idea. +The objection that one may raise to any of the plans just described is, +that one has to pass through the parlor, or the room in the rear of the +hall, to reach the room back of the parlor. Plan No. 5 solves this +problem. From the hall we can go into the living-room, the dining-room +or parlor, without passing through another room. The second floor is an +improvement over No. 4, in that the little bedroom in the rear is +enlarged by allowing it to project over the room below the width of the +hall. In the rear of this comes the bath-room. + +[Illustration: FIGURE 10.] + +As to cost. The building, without appurtenances, on the basis outlined +in schedule "B," would cost as follows:-- + +Plan No. 1, $1,700; No. 2, $1,550; No. 3, $1,550; No. 4, $1,800; No. 5, +$1,900. Figures 8 and 9 are elevations suited to these plans. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 6] + +Plan No. 6 had its origin in Plan No. 1, and was developed through the +successive stages indicated in the description of plans from 1 to 5 +inclusive. The position of the grate-stack has been changed, so that it +acts for the reception-hall on one side, and the parlor on the other. +The reception-hall, instead of receding, projects. In one corner +thereof is arranged a vestibule, partitioned from the rest of the rooms +by ornamental fret-work backed with curtains. This will make a very +beautiful feature. It changes this hall into a room. From here we may +pass to the parlor, sitting-room, and dining-room. In the rear of the +sitting-room is a porch; at one side, a projecting window-seat. The +sitting-room closet is cut off from the pantry. The dining-room is +connected with the sitting-room by sliding-doors. A convenient +china-closet connects the dining-room and kitchen. On one side of the +china-room are arranged drawers. Under the china-closet proper are +shelves enclosed by panelled doors; the china-shelves above being +protected by glass doors, according to the general ideas previously +expressed when considering the china-closet in particular. The kitchen +is the same as others, which are described elsewhere in a more detailed +way. There is a laundry in the basement, and an outside cellar-way +connecting with the back yard. The inside cellar-way is shown. The next +door is that which leads to the second floor. There are five bedrooms on +this floor. The elevation of this house is shown in Fig. No. 11. The +building, without appurtenances, according to schedule "B," costs +$2,600. + +[Illustration: Fig. 8] + +[Illustration: Fig. 9] + +Elevations Nos. 1 and 2 indicate a simple form of exterior, which may go +with either of these plans excepting No. 3. + +The photographic view, Fig. No. 10, shows an exterior of No. 1, as built +at one time. + +[Illustration: Fig. 11.] + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + + A SMALL POCKET-BOOK AND A LARGE IDEA.--AMBITION, DOLLARS, AND A + GOOD HOUSE.--THE GROWTH OF THE HOUSEKEEPER'S IDEAS.--POINTS ABOUT + THE HOUSE.--$2,900. + + +It is frequently said of those who would build, that their ideas are +larger than their pocket-books. It is certainly not discreditable to any +one that his ideas should be larger than his immediate resources. Such a +condition causes the enlargement of the individual and his pocket-book +at the same time. The man who says that he wants two thousand dollars' +worth of house does not get as much for his money as he who in effect +says, "I want three thousand dollars' worth of house for two thousand +dollars." The latter is an ambitious man; the former has only a little +ambition. He merely wants a house. Fortunately, however, there are few +such people. It is more likely to happen that a man and his wife, who +have worked hard for several years, get enough money together to build a +home, and it is possible that this home has been talked about for +several years previous to their building. In fact, they have been +educating themselves in house-building. They have acquainted themselves +with all of the modern conveniences. They have studied porches, +vestibules, and stairways; they know how many rooms they want on the +first floor and the bedrooms that they will have above. At first this +house presents itself in a very crude form; but in the course of time +the plan shows itself more clearly to them. They begin to place the +furniture in the imaginary rooms, and as they do this their ideas +enlarge. They add at first inches, and then feet, to the size of the +various rooms. At first their ideas of a kitchen were quite moderate; in +time a sink begins to assume certain vague outlines, then it takes +definite form on one side of the room; then a pump is placed beside it; +afterward the wife says, "How nice it would be if we could have a +hot-water faucet over the sink." At first they shake their heads and say +that it would cost too much; but in the course of a few evenings' talk +on this and kindred subjects, they come to the conclusion that if the +hot-water arrangements do not cost too much, they will have them; and +that as things are so much cheaper than they used to be, they certainly +ought to get all of these for about what they originally expected to pay +for the house. Their ideas have been of slow growth, but continuous, and +in the aggregate the growth has been great. During all the winter +months, previous to the time when they would build in the spring, many +sketches are made, of the floor-plans of the house that is to be. +Finally the net result is handed to a builder or an architect,--more +frequently the former, as most small houses are built without +professional service. The figures from the builder come in, and are very +much higher than was expected. It is quite a shock, for certainly there +is nothing there that they can well do without. Everything has been +thought of so much. Nothing that their plan contains appears to them to +be less than a matter of necessity. Other builders are asked to figure +with results little more satisfactory. In the end there must be a +compromise; the builder and the owner both yield, and, as a result, a +very satisfactory house is built. There are little things which they +would have different, but, in the main, the house is satisfactory. + +This is the universal experience, and the effect upon the domestic +architecture of this country has been very pronounced. We can now get a +better house for a given sum of money than ever before. Better not only +as to general construction, but as well on account of external +appearance, and the convenience of its internal arrangements. One may +get more of what are regarded as the little conveniences, which mean so +much to the housekeeper. This is not altogether the result of lower +prices of the material and labor which go to make a house, but is as +well on account of the skill which has been developed in planning and +arranging buildings, with reference to economy in space, and cost of +general construction. The planning of houses has undergone a revolution +within a few years past; and instead of having the long, narrow halls at +the side and in the middle of a house, and the long halls and narrow +passages through the upper floor, all of which was ugly and +inconvenient, we now have the same area thrown in large square rooms, so +as to be available. + +It may be known that chimney stacks are quite expensive. For this reason +an effort has been made to group them, so that they may be made to +answer for a number of rooms; and the success with which efforts in this +direction have been attended has been wonderful indeed. The modern floor +plan is altogether different from that of the past; it is more +convenient and less expensive to build; and, as said before, this is +largely the result of efforts of the owner, who has ideas larger than +his pocket-book, and the architect or builder, who exercises his +ingenuity to bring the ideas and the money together. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 7] + +Plan No. 7 is of an eight-room house, and is fairly representative of +the ideas expressed. The general form, it will be seen, is square. It is +a two-story house with a reception-hall, parlor, dining-room, kitchen, +china-closet, pantry, and stair-hall on the first floor; there are +three chambers, the servant's bedroom, the bath-room, and a +communicating hall on the second floor. The first floor is ten feet six +inches high, and the second, nine feet six inches. From the second floor +there is a stairway going to the attic, which is large and roomy, and +which may have various uses. The cellar is seven feet high, and is well +lighted by having the joist set well up from the grade line. There may +be a laundry here, and, separated from it by a door, we may have a +coal-cellar and a furnace-room. As we approach the house, there is, +first, a broad porch about eight feet in width, and fourteen feet in +length. At a slight additional expense, say fifty dollars to sixty +dollars, this porch might be extended across the entire front. Before +reaching the front door, there is a small vestibule,--arranged with or +without storm-doors, as may be thought desirable. It is the impression +of the writer that storm-doors are seldom used. The distinctive feature +of this house is the hall, which is large enough--thirteen feet six +inches by fifteen feet--to be used as a sitting-room. In the front part +of this hall, and at the right as we enter, are a window-seat and a +broad window in front and immediately above it; this is slightly +separated from the main room by the small pilasters or casings on each +side. Immediately in front of the doorway, there are a grate and mantel +set in one corner of the room. There are large doorways, five feet wide, +leading into the stair-hall immediately back of this room, and into the +parlor at the left as we enter. In this case there are merely door +openings, portières or curtains taking the place of ordinary doors. +Sliding-doors might be used in addition to the curtains, and thus have +the advantage of both curtains and doors. From this room the outlines of +the stair-hall and the stairway are visible or not, according to the +arrangement of the portières. There is a side entrance into this hall, +and from it one may go into the kitchen by passing through two doors. It +is a good principle in planning a house always to have two doors between +the kitchen and any other part of the house. One door could as well be +used in this instance, but a second one is added to make the isolation +more complete. In the plan here given, it may be noticed that there are +cellar stairs passing under the main stairway in the hall. + +The dining-room may be entered either from the front parlor or from the +stair-hall. In each case doors are used. It is always desirable to have +a dining-room so arranged that it may be closed from the other parts of +the house. There is a grate in each of the two principal rooms, the +hall, the parlor, and the dining-room, and all communicate with a single +stack. This is much more economical than having three distinct stacks, +which are so frequently used for accomplishing the same result. The only +other chimney stack is in the kitchen. The two answer every purpose. +The outside corners of the dining-room are cut off at an angle of +forty-five degrees, so that the end of the dining-room presents the form +of a large bay window. In the middle space at this end may be placed the +sideboard, in which event a window will be placed over it,--that is, +well toward the ceiling. The dining-room communicates with the kitchen +through a large pantry, eight feet square, or through a slide in the +back of the china-closet. In the kitchen there are broad windows on the +two sides, and a door leading into the back yard. + +In following the stairway to the second floor, it will be noticed that +there is a broad landing something more than half-way up, and that there +is a large window, slightly above it, which lights the hall below, and +partially lights the one above. The advantages of having a stairway +which lands approximately in the centre of the house, as does this one, +is that no room is lost by having long halls which have to lead from the +front to the rear of the house. All we need have is a short hall in the +centre of the building, which will communicate with the rooms around it. +Another convenience of this arrangement is that all of the front of the +house is utilized for chambers. Where the stairway lands in the front of +a house, there must either be a long hall, which is a waste of room, or +one must pass through one or more chambers to get to others. In this +plan the rooms are arranged around the hall, there being three large +ones over the three principal rooms below. In each of these chambers +there is abundant space for the usual bedroom furniture,--viz., a bed, +dresser, wash-stand, and chairs. In these rooms there are closets, and +at the end of the hall there is a store closet for bedding, etc. The +servant's room, as shown, is over the kitchen, as is also the bath-room. + +[Illustration: Fig. 12.] + +It may be noticed that the fixtures in the bath-room--that is, the +bath-tub and closet--are directly over the sink below, so that the pipes +may have the most direct and the shortest runs possible, which is not +only economical, but also safer from flooding in case of accident. The +tank in the attic, which contains the soft or cistern water, is directly +over the tub, and the laundry sink in the cellar is directly under the +kitchen sink. Thus, from cellar to attic, all the plumbing fixtures are +in line, and all pipes exactly vertical, excepting where it is desirable +to take a short branch to connect the fixtures. Having the bath-room +slightly separated, as it is, from the main hall, it is safer, from a +sanitary point of view, than if it opened directly into the main hall. +There is a closet for soiled linen next to the bath-room, which is +accessible either from it or from the short hall leading to it. The +stairs to the attic lead out of the hall, as shown. The attic is +floored, but is otherwise unfinished. If found desirable, one or more +rooms could be finished here, which would be quite as large and pleasant +as any of the other rooms in the house. This house can be finished +complete, including fences, sheds, walks, gas fixtures, plumbing, +mantels, and furnace, for $2,900. + +Fig. No. 12 is an elevation. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + + "WE KNOW WHAT WE WANT."--A CONVENIENT PLAN.--MEETING THE WANTS OF + PEOPLE WHO BUILD. + + +Floor plans develop from the varying necessities of those who build. +There is no reason why the same arrangement should suit any large number +of people. A floor plan, if carefully and thoughtfully made, will meet +the requirements of the individuals whose wants are particularly +considered. While there are certain general principles, which affect the +value of a floor plan for good or evil, the detailed requirements are +almost as varied as the tastes and dispositions of the occupants. + +A lady and gentleman come into an architect's office, and explain that +they are intending to build, and want to look at something with a view +of selecting a plan. The architect has a great many plans which he might +show them, but he knows well enough that none of them will be selected. +He says:-- + +"I shall be glad to show you anything I have, but not with the +expectation of finding something that will please you. By doing so, I +shall probably find out what you do not want, and in that negative way +meet your requirements." + +"I think I know what we want," says the lady, "but I do not know just +how to arrange it. The stairways bother me, and there are things which I +do not get to suit me." + +"Well, tell me what, you want, and then we will make a sketch; and from +that, corrections; and, in the end, we shall probably have something +satisfactory, though not wholly so at once." + +"Before we go any farther," says the gentleman, "I want to say that we +have only twenty-five hundred dollars to put into a house." + +"Yes, that is all we can afford," says the lady; "but I can tell you +what we want." + +The architect reaches for a note-book and a piece of paper. + +"We want a reception-hall, with a grate and stairway in it. There must +be a small vestibule, with a place for overshoes, hats, and overcoats. +Somewhere near the reception-hall, or in it, I want a closet where I can +put my own wraps, and those of the children, and other things which I do +not care to keep upstairs, and yet wish to have out of the way. It does +not need to be a large closet, but must not be unusually small. We want +a parlor and dining-room, which connect with the reception-hall. The +parlor will be used as a sitting-room not a little, but not in the +ordinary way, for the reason that I stay upstairs with the children most +of the time. I do my sewing there. If I should use the parlor regularly +as the sitting-room, I could receive my callers in the reception-hall. +It would be nice if we could have some kind of a window-seat in that +room. We want a grate in the sitting-room, but not necessarily one in +the dining-room. I want a back stairway, but it must not go up directly +from the kitchen. The kitchen and pantry I want you to make as +convenient as possible in a house of this cost." + +"How would a combination stairway do?" + +"Oh, I don't want that at all. It would be bringing the two together. I +want the rear stairway in the rear of the house, and entirely separate +from the one in front. It should land near the girl's room on the second +floor, so that it can be cut off from the rest of the house. We must +have plenty of closet-room upstairs." + +"How many children have you?" + +"Two: a baby and a little boy about six years old." + +"Then you must have at least four bedrooms," was suggested. "For the +present, the baby can sleep in your room, and the boy in a room next to +and connecting with it. There must also be a guest's room and a +servant's room." + +"Yes, that will have to do for the present; but don't forget the +bath-room, and be sure to have plenty of closets. There is one thing I +had almost forgotten. There must be some arrangement so that the servant +can get from the kitchen to the front door without going through the +dining-room; but we don't want the smells of the kitchen to get into the +front part of the house." + +After two or three sketches had been made, the result, as here +illustrated, was reached. The architect has it in mind that the space at +the right of the entrance door in the vestibule would serve as a place +for overcoats and other winter equipments. He suggests that a portière +be placed between the vestibule and the opening leading into the +reception-hall. This will prevent draughts of cold air from making their +way into the front room when the door is opened. It will also lend a +certain amount of privacy. The porch is placed in front, as a matter of +course. In the recess of the hall which is made by the vestibule a +window-seat is placed. In the rear of the reception-hall is the closet +required. As a means of getting from the kitchen to the reception-hall +without passing through the dining-room, two doors are arranged leading +to a passage under the stairs. This will prevent the passage of kitchen +odors over the house. The parlor and dining-room are arranged as shown. +Between the window and the door leading to the china-closet is space for +the sideboard. The pantry is separated from the china-closet by the +cupboard of the former. It has doors above and shelves below. The +ice-chest is placed in the pantry. It is readily accessible from both +china-closet and kitchen. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 8.] + +The passageway to the second floor is from this room, and, considering +the limited means and large general requirements, this arrangement will +no doubt be satisfactory. The stairway is accessible from both +dining-room and kitchen. As there is a bath-room and water-closet above, +there is no necessity for carrying slops downstairs and through the +kitchen. The kitchen has the usual fittings. The passage to the cellar +is under the front stairway. As will be remembered, there is a door +shutting this passage from the reception-hall. Upstairs there is a +closet in each room, two opening into the hall--one for bed linen, and +one for dust-pans, brushes, etc. There is also a closet in the +bath-room. The attic stairway is shown. An inspection of Plan No. 8 will +show how all of the requirements were met. + +Cost, as per schedule "B," $2,200. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + + TWO GOOD ROOMS IN FRONT.--THE COMBINATION PANTRY.--TOO MUCH CELLAR + A BURDEN.--$2,500. + + +In Plan No. 9, the reception-room contains the front stairway. This +stairway lands near the front of the house on the second floor, for +which reason we are enabled to have in the front part of the house the +two rooms which are most used on each floor. We have the two chambers +above, and the reception-room and the sitting-room below. If we had a +long, narrow stair hall constructed in the usual way, we should have the +sitting-room towards the rear, and only a little alcove bedroom over the +hall in front. + +The dining-room, which is a large room, is connected with the front part +of the house by sliding-doors. It has a grate in one corner of it. On +general principles, a grate has no business in the dining-room. It is +nearly always at some one's back, and makes him uncomfortable at meal +time. Being in the corner of the room, it is farther from any one than +it would be if located on a side wall: hence it may be allowed. There is +a porch in the rear of the dining-room, and between the door leading to +it and the door to the china-closet there is a space for a side-board. +There are two windows at the end of this dining-room. The door which +passes into the pantry should be on double spring-hinges, so that it +will swing both ways. One can push against it and open from either side, +and when it is released it will take its natural position. + +[Illustration: Plan No 9.] + +The pantry is a large one. Pantries, in general, may be regarded as a +kitchen annex--a store-room and preparing-room. This pantry is on the +combination plan. It connects with the china-closet by means of a slide. +Aside from this china-closet, which projects into it, there is a +cupboard with double doors at one end, a flour-bin at the side, a pastry +table next to it, and a refrigerator by the window. One reason for +placing this refrigerator near the window is, that a flight of steps and +a platform might be arranged on the outside, so that the iceman could +put in the ice without going through the kitchen. We go down cellar from +this pantry. + +[Illustration: Fig. 13.] + +There is a cellar under about half of this house--the kitchen and the +dining-room. It should have a cemented floor, and numerous windows for +lighting it. The part under the kitchen could be used for a laundry, +that under the dining-room for coal storage and furnace. There could be +an excavation under a part of the sitting-room for vegetable storage. +"Why not put a cellar under the whole house? It would cost but little +more," has been asked many times. It is the little things, the smaller +economies, in a building of this kind which makes the difference between +an expensive house and a house of moderate cost. Every foot of cellar +space beyond what is needed for actual use is a burden to the +housekeeper. The arrangement has more to do with the number of +apartments than with the amount of space. We have a laundry-room, a +place for furnace and fuel, and a room for vegetables, which is about +all that can be used. From the cellar we can go up the stairway and +into the kitchen, from the kitchen to the second floor, and from the +second floor to the attic. + +It is a large attic, a place for large rooms if one should need them. +Under any circumstances this attic should be floored. There could be no +better place for general storage, and at times for drying clothes. + +It seldom happens that two houses from exactly the same plan are built. +While this plan has pleased many people, there are others who would not +be attracted by it; who would not care to build this house as their +home. The universal floor plan has never been made, and never will be. +There are general principles running through all plans which are +valuable, and if rightly understood will contribute to the improvement +of the homes of the people. + +Fig. 13 is an elevation. + +Cost, without appurtenances, $2,500, as per schedule "B." + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + + SITTING-ROOM AND PARLOR IN FRONT.--A CONNECTING VESTIBULE.--A + CENTRAL COMBINATION STAIRWAY.--GOOD ROOMS IN THE ATTIC. + + +When we say that the sitting-room should be in the front part of the +house, it does not necessarily imply that the parlor should be +disturbed. As shown in Plan No. 10, they may both be in front. The +vestibule, which is large enough for a hat-rack, and for the occupants +of the house to stand while putting on their overshoes and wraps, is in +front of both parlor and reception-room, but yet in a way so as not to +disturb the view to the street from either of these rooms. We cannot +have all of the rooms in front. The kitchen we do not want there. The +dining-room is convenient if placed immediately in the rear of the +sitting-room. Thus we have two rooms in front and two in the rear. This +is practically a square house. The old habit has been to place the +stairway along one side of the parlor in the hall which served as a +passageway from the front to the rooms immediately in the rear. This +distribution of halls is what has thrown the sitting-room back of the +parlor. In the plan here given the change has been made so that the hall +has relatively the same position that did the sitting-room in the past, +though it is by no means as large. It is essentially a stair-hall, and +incidentally a passage. As placed, we may enter it from the parlor, +sitting-room, dining-room, or kitchen. Its position is central. There +are two doors between this stair-hall and the kitchen. The central +position of the stairway has other advantages than those just stated. +It makes long halls on the second floor entirely unnecessary. As will be +seen by looking at the floor plan, it gives two good bedrooms in front. + +[Illustration: Plan No 10.] + +The dining-room is immediately in the rear of the sitting-room. There +may be sliding doors connecting these two rooms. One door, three and a +half feet wide, usually makes a sufficiently large opening for the +dining-room connection. There are sliding doors between the parlor and +sitting-room, and dining-room and sitting-room, as shown. The kitchen +has the advantage of a certain amount of isolation from the rest of the +house, for the reason that there are two doors between it and any other +room. The pantries are arranged with reference to their most convenient +use. In the kitchen-pantry there are places for a refrigerator, +flour-bin, bread-board, and cupboard. The dining-room pantry is a +china-closet, with glass doors above and closed doors below. The doors +connecting the dining-room pantry or passage should be hung on +double-spring hinges. + +In the plan of this house it is shown how we may go from the kitchen to +the same landing that is used for the main stairway, and thus avoid the +necessity for a distinctively back hall and back stairway. However, if +it is so desired, it is easy to place a stairway in the rear, and thus +have them entirely independent. In that event a room may be placed over +the pantry, and be used by the servant. This part of the house could be +cut off from the front rooms and the bath-room on the second floor by a +door. But to take the house as it is, we have a combination stairway, +there being two doors separating the kitchen approach from the common +landing in the main stair-hall. + +On the second floor there is a hall about fourteen feet long from which +we pass to two bedrooms in front, two in the rear, the bath-room and the +store-closet. Each room is independent. They may be connected one with +the other as family necessities suggest. The store-closet is accessible +from the hall, as such a closet should be. This makes it available from +any of the rooms. The bath-room is directly over the kitchen. + +In each bedroom there is a place for a bed, a dressing-case, and a +wash-stand, which is not always the case in bedrooms. If there is a +place for these things, if the dressing-case bears its proper relation +to the sources of light, if it is so placed that the light from the +window or from the gas shines in the face of the user, if the wash-stand +is conveniently disposed, and there is room at the side of it for a +slop-jar, if there is a large closet, then the architect has done his +full duty in the arrangement of the bedroom. The room that is called +the family room should be especially well cared for in the matter of +closets. + +A hundred dollars would lath and plaster the entire attic of this house, +and provide a room in the front part which could be used by the boys or +the servant. There is no objection to this except in the necessity for +climbing an extra pair of stairs. The mere mention of a bedroom in the +attic is distasteful to many people. It arouses memories of hot, dusty, +and uncomfortable places in which they have passed the night. All this +depends on the attic. The roof in this house is pitched at an angle of +forty-five degrees. The house at the narrowest point is 29. feet wide. +This would make the attic at the highest point 14-1/2 feet. We can stud +down from this and have a nine-foot story and at the same time a large +room, one which would have none of the disadvantages of a half-story +room, and which would have all the advantages of a well-ventilated, +comfortable bedroom, for summer or winter. The plastering of the attic +suggests neatness. Having it well lighted by dormers exposes all +disorder. Cost, as per schedule "B," $2,600. + + + + +CHAPTER XX. + + A COMPACT PLAN.--AN ISOLATED RECEPTION-ROOM.--COMBINATION + STAIRWAY.--DESCRIPTION OF THE FLOOR PLAN.--CELLAR + ARRANGEMENT.--DINING-ROOM AND CONSERVATORY.--ANOTHER PLAN. + + +The floor plans in No. 11 are of a house of small area, 30 × 34-1/2 +feet, for body of the structure. There is a porch in front, a circular +bay window at one side, and a pantry and china-closet projecting at the +rear. In the house there are eight available rooms besides the bath-room +and the attic. In the attic, rooms quite as liberal as any in the house +could be constructed at a small expense. + +On the first floor, as we enter, there is the reception or sitting hall, +which is so common in the more modern arrangements of dwellings. This +reception hall or room has a certain amount of isolation from the +passage which leads from the vestibule to the stairway and the rear +portion of the house. It may be separated therefrom by curtains or +portières. It would be entirely possible to separate the two by means of +sliding doors, in which event the opening from the room into the passage +would have to be a little narrower than shown in the drawings. This room +could be used as the office of a physician, or of a gentleman who did +more or less business at home. By making the front vestibule about six +inches deeper, a separate entrance to this room could be provided. In +this event, a door from the room into the passage leading to the living +part of the house would be a necessity. The circular bay end of this +room would present an attractive feature. The windows in this part of +the room could be placed about four feet from the floor, in which event +book-shelves could be arranged below them. The window in front goes to +within seventeen inches of the floor. Under the stairway, and leading +from this room, may be placed a very liberal closet, in which there +should be a small window. + +Leading from the passage is the stairway, and two closets. The little +passage in which one closet is placed is separated from the hall by a +door. There is another door opening from this passage into the kitchen. +Thus there are two doors between the kitchen and the front part of the +house. This arrangement has in mind the isolation of the kitchen from +the other rooms in a way to prevent the passage of the usual kitchen +odors. + +[Illustration: Plan No 11.] + +The stairways in this house are of the class known as combination +stairways; while they are convenient and easy of construction, there is +a certain amount of complication in their arrangement which makes them +difficult of description so as to be understood by those not accustomed +to examining floor plans. There is the stairway from the front hall to +the floor above, and one from the kitchen to the landing of the front +stairway. The landing of the front stairway and that from the kitchen +stairway is in common; that is, it is the same. For the purpose of +making this understood, it may be well to say that one may go up the +stairway from the front hall to the landing, some eight steps, and from +thence down into the kitchen, or he can turn right face and go to the +landing on the second floor. This part of the stairs is used coming up +from the kitchen as well as from the front hall. However, the kitchen +stairway is separated from the landing by a door. There is another door +at the foot of this kitchen stairway. In coming downstairs, one may +turn to the right, open a door, and go down into the kitchen; or, he may +turn to the left, and go down the front stairway into the hall. Thus it +will be seen that the combination stairway is a front and rear stairway +together, with separate entrance from both parts of the house,--one from +the kitchen, and one from the front hall. It must be confessed that +there is a certain amount of compromise in an arrangement of this kind, +but it is a saving of both space and money, and is tolerable on this +account. By this plan everything is concentrated, and without the +serious drawback which extra cost, or a smaller number of rooms, would +imply to those who have only a little over two thousand dollars to spend +for a house, without appurtenances. The head room for the stairway, +coming up from the kitchen, is secured under the bath-tub in the +bath-room immediately above. + +The cellar stairway is clearly indicated as going down parallel to the +kitchen stairs and under the front stairs. The cellar in this house +should be under the kitchen, stairways, and the reception-hall; that is, +it would occupy all of one side of the house. In this cellar plan the +principles set forth in the previous chapter on cellars are carried out. + +[Illustration: Cellar Plan.] + +The parlor is thirteen and one-half by seventeen feet in size. It is +connected with a hall by wide sliding doors, so that about one-half of +this side of the room may be open. The grate opposite the sliding doors +in the parlor would present a very beautiful view from the hall and +stairway. The sliding doors between the parlor and dining-room are +placed there more in deference to custom than through any personal sense +of their fitness. Sliding doors do not have the quality of excluding +sound or odors that is desirable. The ordinary hinged door is better in +this respect. This room which would commonly be called a parlor would +really be used as a living-room, excepting by those who use the +dining-room or one of the second-floor chambers for that purpose. + +Our dining-room has an independent connection with the front hall, so +that we do not have to go through the parlor or the sitting-room to +reach it. A little extra money, say seventy dollars, would place a +conservatory at one side, at one corner, or at the end of this +dining-room. Fifty dollars would give a bay window. As it is, we have +two windows of the ordinary kind at one side of the room, and none at +the end. A very good arrangement, when bay or conservatory is not used, +would be to take one of these windows at the side and place it at the +rear end, though near the outside corner of the room. This would give +space between the windows and the china-closet door for a sideboard. The +window at the side of the dining-room, if the other were moved to the +end, should be in the middle of the wall space; that is, opposite the +centre of the flue. + +From the dining-room we go into the kitchen through the china-pantry, +which is marked "passage." This china-pantry has a little window at one +side, and at the end a separate apartment for chinaware, which is closed +from the passage by means of glass doors. The doors leading from the +passage into the dining-room and kitchen should be hung on +double-swinging hinges. + +There are those who would say that there should be no door from the +kitchen into the passage leading from the dining-room to the front hall. +It would probably be well to retain this door in this position, and have +a bolt on the side of the door toward the hall. Thus the mistress of the +house can close it, and keep it closed at will. Another thing that might +be done would be to place a strong spring on this door which would +always keep it closed. The windows in this kitchen should be placed +about three feet from the floor, so that tables may be placed under +them. There is a place for a gas-stove between the two windows, or even +under them if desirable. The porch at the rear of the kitchen may be +enclosed with lattice work, or, what is better, coarse louvered slats, +like those of a shutter. In either event, it could be covered with +screen wire, and made a part of the kitchen in summer. In the plan, +however, nothing of this kind is indicated. The door which leads from +the porch into the pantry is a small one, placed above the ice-chest, +and is for the use of the ice-man. + +[Illustration: Plan No 12.] + +The arrangement of rooms upstairs will be readily understood. Leading +out of the hall is a store closet for bedding, etc. It is located so as +to be accessible from all rooms. From the front end of the hall a door +leads into the stair passage to the attic. + +Plan No. 12 is the outgrowth of Plan No. 11. In it there is a lift +running from cellar to attic, as shown. The only important difference +between it and No. 11 is in the size of the library. Cost, as per +schedule "B," $2,600. Fig. 14 is an elevation: see page 147. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + + WHAT CAN BE DONE FOR $1,600?--THE CLOSET IN THE HALL.--A SMALL + CONVENIENT KITCHEN.--CLOSETS IN THE BEDROOMS. + + +This house--Plan No. 13--was finished at a cost of less than $1,600. +This included, besides the house itself, a woodshed, well, and cistern. +There is a cellar under the hall and parlor. The building has a brick +foundation, and the wood-work begins two feet above the grade. The +stud-walls of the exterior are lined, first with dressed sheathing, then +with heavy building-paper, and finally covered with weather-boarding. +The first and second tiers of joists are two by ten inches; the +ceiling-joists of the second story are two by eight inches. All of the +studding is two by four inches. The windows have box frames with iron +weights and cotton cords. The first story is ten feet high, the second +eight and a half feet. These details of construction are mentioned so +that any one interested may know that it is a substantial, +well-constructed building. The interior finish is of pine, part of which +is varnished and the remainder stained and varnished. The front door and +stairway are of quartered oak. + +The front porch is 10-1/2 feet wide and 7-1/2 feet deep. It has a high +roof over it, as will be seen by the elevation. The entrance, being at +one side of the porch, gives more available space for uninterrupted use +during the warm weather. The hall is 10 feet wide and 10-1/2 feet long. +The stairway has first two steps to a broad landing, and then a +continuous movement to the second floor. If this landing were reduced +in size by making the approach more direct, say turning directly to the +left as one enters the door and going through a landing the width of the +stairway before making the general ascent, there would be more available +room in the hall. It is shown this way in the drawing, because it is the +way the house was built. There is a closet in this hall. There are many +houses built without a closet on the first floor, but it is certainly +better that one be provided. + +[Illustration: Plan No 13.] + +As will be seen, there are three rooms on the first floor, and four and +a bath on the second. It is an easy house to care for, because there is +no waste space, and all the rooms are readily accessible without extra +steps. Waste room means waste of energy and waste of money in more ways +than one--waste not only as to the unnecessary expenditure in the cost +of building, but in carpets, and in the labor of sweeping and caring for +them. + +[Illustration: Fig 14.] + +In the parlor at the right of the hall are two windows and a grate; one +window is in front and the other at the side. The dining-room is +similarly equipped. It has a large china-closet which connects with the +table in the kitchen by means of a slide. There is also a door between +the kitchen and dining-room. Eleven by twelve and a half feet is not +large for a kitchen. The availability of kitchen space is not entirely +dependent, however, on its dimensions, but rather upon the disposition +of the wall-space and the conveniences which have to do with a kitchen. +It will be seen that there is a space for the kitchen-range or stove +near the flue which does not conflict with the use of any other part of +the kitchen. Also there is a space between the door which leads into +the pantry and an outside wall which gives place for a kitchen-safe, +which may hold the kitchen utensils. It is out of the way and yet +convenient to the range. The safe might be placed opposite the tables at +the other end of the kitchen, if thought desirable. The kitchen window +is placed about three feet above the floor. This gives wall-space under +it. Where a safe is not used, a cabinet, to contain pots, kettles, etc., +can be placed there. + +[Illustration: Plan No 14.] + +The pantry is quite convenient to the kitchen. There is an enclosed +cupboard on one side which has doors and shelves above and below, and in +the recess next to the dining-room wall is a place for open shelves. +Near the pantry window is a dough-board and a place for flour. Here, +also, is the entrance to the cellar. It will be seen that there is a +door between the pantry and hall, which makes it possible to pass from +the kitchen to the stairway or from the kitchen to the front hall +without going through other rooms. The enclosed cupboard in the pantry +makes it possible to keep it always tidy. There is a glazed door in the +rear of the kitchen. + +[Illustration: Fig. 15.] + +It may be noticed that there is not a large hall to be carpeted or swept +on the second floor. This hall is well lighted by a window at the side. +From here one can go into any of the rooms on the second floor. As to +the bedrooms, there is a convenient place for bedroom furniture in all +of them. There is at least a choice of two places for each bed, a space +for a dressing-case where it will get the best light, and room for a +wash-stand. There is a closet in each bedroom, of ample capacity. + +The right-hand house in Fig. No. 10 shows the exterior of Plan No. 13. + +Plan No. 14 is another edition of Plan 15. The room lettered parlor is +properly a sitting-room. By dispensing with the grate in the +reception-hall this house could be built, as it was at one time, with a +stairway meeting the one coming up from the dining-room and passing from +thence to the second floor. The elevation of this house shows it with an +attic, though the plan does not contemplate this arrangement. Without +the attic and with a lower-pitched roof, this building, without +appurtenances, can be finished for $1,500. + +Fig. 15 is an elevation of Plans No. 14 and 15. + +[Illustration: Plan No 15] + +Plans No. 13 and 15 belong to the same class. No. 15 is more elaborate +in its details, and larger. From the sitting-room one passes to the +landing where it meets a stairway coming up from the kitchen. From +thence there is a common passage to the second floor. On this floor are +four bedrooms, a bath-room, and a liberal supply of closets. One of the +front chambers is supplied with two, and the hall with two. There is one +in the bath-room, and each of the other rooms. The cellar and attic of +this house are plastered. The building, without appurtenances, as per +schedule "B," cost $2,550. + +Fig. No. 16 is an elevation of Plan No. 15. + +[Illustration: Fig. 16] + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + + OUTGROWTHS OF ONE IDEA.--EVERYTHING COUNTS AS A ROOM.--ONE + CHIMNEY.--CONVENIENCES OF A CONDENSED HOUSE.--COST FROM $1,600 TO + $2,800. + + +Plans Nos. 16, 17, and 18 are all outgrowths of the same idea. It is the +most economical general scheme for a house that is represented in this +collection. In No. 16 there is not more than forty-eight square feet of +hall space in the entire house. This is on the second floor. This plan +was devised under an extraordinary pressure for a roomy house for a +relatively small sum of money. Everything is made to count for a room. +Twelve sets of plans of this general kind were made for as many +different owners of houses during one season. This statement is made for +the purpose of indicating its popularity. We will look through No. 16 +with some respect to detail. + +It is a one-chimney plan. There are three grates with independent flues +in the three principal rooms on the first floor, and two grates with +their flues on the second floor. One among other points of economy is +the stairway arrangement. It is a combination, front, rear, and cellar +all in compact form. There are two doors between the kitchen and the +landing of the main stairway. In this respect it is like other +combination stairways which have been described. The front and rear +stairway come to the same landing, and from thence to the second floor. +The front stairway is provided with a railing, baluster, etc., and the +one from the kitchen is within an enclosure. There may be portières +between the landing and the reception-hall. Thus one may pass from the +kitchen to the second floor without coming into view from this room. The +cellar stairway goes down under the main stairway. The combination idea +is carried out again in the pantry and china-closet. This pantry and its +arrangement in detail are fully described in Chapter VI., and +illustrated in Fig. 4. The vestibule next to the reception-hall is the +one referred to in Chapter V. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 16] + +On the second floor are four bedrooms and a bath-room, which is +immediately over the kitchen. There is a straight run of pipe in a pipe +duct on the inside wall. + +Fig. 17 is a photographic view of the exterior. It is an ultra shingle +design. + +[Illustration: Fig. 18.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 19.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 17.] + +[Illustration: FIGURE 17.] + +Fig. 18 is an elevation of Plan No. 17. Fig. 19 of Plan No. 18. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 18.] + +No. 17 is the house in which the general plan was first worked out, and, +in some respects, it shows that the idea was then in an experimental +stage. However, it indicates a house of moderate size on this plan, +whereas No. 16 is a large house. No. 18 is the small size of the same +plan. It has been built many times as a rental house. With the furnace +it is under lease, in one instance, for five hundred dollars a year. In +other cases, without a furnace but including plumbing with the use of +city water only, the rent is thirty-five dollars a month. Any of these +plans can be worked into a double house by putting the bathroom on the +outside, and adding to the amount of window space front and rear. The +following is a list of costs, without appurtenances, as per schedule +"B":-- + +No. 16, as a shingle house, $2,800; No. 17, $2,200; No. 18, $1,600. + +The latter figure includes soft-wood finish throughout. Other sizes of +this house have been built where the general construction aggregated +$2,400. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + + ONE-STORY PLANS.--DESCRIPTION OF FLOOR PLANS.--BATH-ROOM NEXT TO + KITCHEN FLUE.--KITCHEN, PORCH, AND PANTRY.--THE + EXTERIOR.--ENLARGEMENTS ON THIS PLAN.--OTHER ONE-STORY HOUSES. + + +This house--Plan No. 19--has been built for $1,400. It is a one-story +cottage, containing five rooms, a bath-room, and a pantry. Such a house +is suited to young people of moderate means, or possibly to older ones, +where there are no children, or where the housekeeper does her own work. +It will be seen that it gives more of the conveniences of a larger house +than are usually found in a cottage of this size. + +From the porch we pass into a little vestibule, which might be made +larger by throwing into it the closet which opens from the sitting-room. +From the vestibule we go either into the parlor or the sitting-room. +This parlor could be used as the living-room of the house, and the +sitting-room as the dining-room, and still meet all the conditions of +good housekeeping. Off from the sitting-room is a projection, which +could be very comfortably arranged as a window-seat. It could be used as +such during warm weather, and as a place for plants in winter. In the +corner of this room is a closet, which may be connected with the kitchen +by a slide. There are sliding doors between the sitting-room and the +bedroom. In the front part of the bedroom is a large closet. It is +possible that many would prefer to have a window at this point, and have +a smaller closet elsewhere; say, in the corner next to the sliding-door +partition. The placing of a closet next to the rear wall would leave no +place for a bed as the rooms are now arranged. If the door from the +parlor to the bedroom were omitted the head of the bed might be placed +against the sliding-door partition, and the closet cut out from the rear +bedroom, with an opening leading into the front bedroom. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 19] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 20.] + +From the sitting-room, or from the front bedroom, we pass into a little +hall; and from the hall into the kitchen, the bathroom, or the rear +bedroom. Over each of the five doors leading into this hall there should +be a transom; thus it would be well lighted. The placing of the hall in +this way makes all of the rooms surrounding it independently accessible. +The rear bedroom has a place for a bed, a large closet, and a wall +space for necessary furniture. The availability of a bedroom is not +always dependent upon its size. A room may be large, and yet not contain +wall space for the furniture. A large bedroom may have a small closet. +This bedroom has a large one. + +The bath-room comes next to the kitchen flue. This is important when we +consider that the kitchen flue is frequently the last one in the house +to get cool. As here arranged, the pipe connections with the bath-tub +would all be short; they would all be near this flue, and on the inside +wall. Hence the conditions would be against freezing. There is a hollow +thimble in the pipe connections between the kitchen flue and the +bedroom. The bath-room might connect with the same flue or flue-stack. +Connecting with the bath-room there is a large linen-closet, which is +about the proper size and form for folded bed-clothes. It is near the +bath-room window, so that when the closet-door is open the contents will +be plainly in view. + +There is a large window in one side of the kitchen, which should be +placed three feet from the floor, so as to admit of a table being set +under it. If the kitchen stove were placed next the wall separating the +kitchen and sitting-room, it could be piped across to the kitchen flue, +and in that way leave the wall space adjacent to that flue and near the +bath-tub for the kitchen sink. This would bring all the plumbing work +together. At one side of this sink could be placed a well-pump, and a +cistern-pump at the other. + +In the rear of the kitchen are a porch and a pantry. We go down cellar +directly from the kitchen. Over the headway of the cellar stairs could +be placed a closet for various stores, such as canned fruit. This +closet, of course, would be connected with the pantry, as shown. The +necessity for head room in going into the cellar would make it +necessary to place the floor of this closet three or four feet above the +pantry floor. + +On the side of the pantry opposite this closet are two cup-boards, with +doors and shelves above and below. There is a place for a flour-bin or +flour-barrel under the dough-board, and space for an ice-box next to it. +This box should have a drain connecting with the outside. It is intended +to have the cellar under the kitchen and bath-room, though it might be +extended under the sitting-room also. This part of the cellar might be +used as a fuel-room, and thus dispense with wood and coal sheds. With +the fuel and water in the house, the housekeeper would be saved much +work. Where a kitchen sink is provided, it would be unnecessary even to +carry out the dish-water. + +[Illustration: Fig. 20. FRONT ELEVATION.] + +There are two flue-stacks in this building. A base-burner would warm the +sitting-room and bedroom and temper the air of the parlor. A grate fire +in the parlor would complete the work of heating that room. + +The cut of the exterior, Fig. 20, tells its own story. The porch has +turned columns, and a frieze decorated with scroll-work. The window seat +may have a window at each end, as shown in the floor-plan, or panels, as +indicated in the elevation. There is a gable at the side and over the +window seat, which extends the full width of the sitting-room. + +Plan No. 20 is a development of Plan No. 19. Without appurtenances it +cost $1,200. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 21] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 22] + +Plan No. 21 is an enlargement of No. 19. The pantry and china-room are +arranged differently. The doors leading into the china-room are glazed +in their upper panels with cathedral glass. This obscures the view, and +gives sufficient light. These doors were hung on double-spring hinges, +so frequently mentioned. Over the dining-room and chamber are two +finished bedrooms. They are arranged in the high part of the roof, and, +with dormers, would have only a small part of the upper corners clipped. +There are two grates more than shown in Plan No. 19. The stairway +arrangement may be reversed, so that one goes to the second floor from +the hall rather than from the kitchen. This house cost, with two +finished rooms on the second floor, without appurtenances, as per +schedule "B," $1,700. + +Plan No. 22 can be built and finished for $800. The gable arrangement +would be about the same as in Fig. No. 20. + +Plan No. 23 was built, including everything that went on to the lot, for +$1,600. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 23] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 24] + +Plan No. 24, as per schedule "B," cost $1,100. + +Plan No. 25, without appurtenances, cost $1,400. + +One-story houses cost more for the accommodations which they afford than +two-story buildings, for the reason that it takes the same foundation +and roof for a one-story house that it does for one of two stories of +the same area on the first floor. In fact, it usually takes more +foundation and roof for a one-story house than it does for a two-story, +for the reason that it covers more ground space than would be required +for the same or a larger number of rooms in the two floors. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 25.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 26.] + +No. 26. This is a peculiar type of a one-story house. There is a +servants room over the kitchen. It is a very comfortable arrangement. +The bath-room stands between the two bedrooms. There is a grate in each +of the rooms on the lower floor. The kitchen-sink arrangements are not +altogether satisfactory. It is a plan which will never be very popular. +It is designed to be finished with shingles for the outside wall. The +structure will cost about two thousand dollars, as per schedule "B." + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + + SIDE-HALL PLANS.--PLANS WITH BEDROOM ON FIRST FLOOR. + + +Plan No. 27 is a side-hall plan with a bedroom on the first floor. The +parlor and sitting-room have views directly to the front. The +dining-room has a bay end, and a good china-passage to the kitchen. +There is a rear side-hall which is desired by a good many people in +building a large house. On the second floor are four principal chambers, +which are entirely cut off from the rear bedroom, by bolting a door into +the rear hall. The bath-room is measurably detached from the rest of the +house, which fact will have the quality of satisfying people who are +suspicious of all plumbing. This building, without appurtenances, +according to schedule "B," cost about three thousand dollars. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 27.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 28.] + +Plan No. 28 has over two hundred dollars' worth of porch attached to it. +It is a side-hall plan, with the entrance to the front. In it the +combination stair idea is carried out in a way previously mentioned, but +not before illustrated. The rear stairway is direct as to the servant's +room, and combined with the central stairway only for entrance to the +main part of the house on the second floor. The arrangement of rooms on +the first floor makes this plan suitable for use by people who entertain +in a small way. This is the plan to which reference is made in the +special kitchen article, excepting that there is a change in the +position of the cellar stairway. There are two closets and a wash-stand +in the hall which connects the kitchen and sitting-room. This +building, without appurtenances, as per schedule "B," cost between +$2,800 and $2,900. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 29.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 30] + +In Plan No. 29 the hall is in front, yet the entrance is at the side. +The stairway is at the rear end of the hall. A little door is shown at +the rear of the vestibule, leading under the stairway. The closet is not +very high, yet it is high enough to use as a place to store a baby +carriage or a small tricycle. The arrangement of the entrance and the +stairs admits of the use of the hall as a room. In the house as +constructed, there is a window seat in the octagon end. There is a +double railing coming down into the hall. A part of the stairway is open +on each side. Opposite is a grate. There are also grates in the parlor +and sitting-room. By a little change in the kitchen arrangement, a +bedroom could be placed back of the sitting room, and the rear and +cellar stairway would occupy measurably the same position as now. The +kitchen would have to be a little narrower, and, if desired, might be +longer. The pantry and kitchen could both be pushed a little to the left +of where they now stand. In this way space for a bedroom could be +provided back of the sitting-room, with possibly only a small projection +to the right. The rear vestibule could be cut out of the corner of the +bedroom. To prevent this from injuring the appearance of the room, a +corresponding space, to the left of this vestibule, could be arranged +into passage and closets for the bedroom and sitting-room. In this event +the rear bedroom wall would extend past the rear kitchen wall. Attention +is called to the size of the closets on the second floor. By a slightly +different arrangement of the bath-room an additional bedroom could be +provided. There is a large attic over the front part of this house. The +entire side walls are covered with shingles dipped in stain. There is a +mild form of octagon tower over the front chamber. The building, as here +planned, cost $2,600, without the appurtenances mentioned in schedule +"B." + +[Illustration: Fig. 21.] + +No. 30. Plans with bedrooms on the first floor are frequently wanted. +This requirement makes an ugly problem. It increases the number of rooms +on the first floor, and oftentimes leaves a less number to be provided +on the second story. In this plan, including the bath and +reception-hall, there are six rooms on the first floor and three on the +second, hence a good deal of waste. There is a sink in the rear hall, +second floor, with water supply over it, to obviate the necessity of +carrying slops down stairs. Cost of building in brick, $3,000. + +Fig. 21 is an elevation. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 31.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 22.] + +No. 31. This plan is of the same general character as No. 27, but is +somewhat contracted. There is a wash-stand in the little room on the +stair landing, a few steps above the reception-hall floor. This +building, without appurtenances, cost $2,400, as per schedule "B." + +Fig. 22 is an elevation of this plan. + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + + MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTION.--SHORT DESCRIPTIONS OF ELEVEN HOUSE + PLANS.--VARYING COSTS.--SQUARE PLANS.--ONE-CHIMNEY PLANS.--REAR AND + SIDE HALL. + + +A great many people like a side-hall entrance, as well as one in front. +Plan No. 32 gives it. On the second floor there are a large number of +bedrooms. The rear stairway comes up in a manner to separate the +servant's room from the front part of the house. A double store-closet +is shown on the rear of the second floor. The front part of this closet +may be left unlocked and the other portion made secure. The bath-room in +the rear has direct connection with the water pipes as they come up from +the kitchen. All the bedrooms have the proper plan for furniture. This +house, without appurtenances, as per schedule "B," was built for about +$4,000. + +Plan No. 33 was used three times in one season, in slightly differing +forms, at a cost varying from $2,800 to $3,600, without appurtenances, +as per schedule "B." In the matter of floor space it is not an +economical house. It makes a very pretty arrangement of rooms on the +first floor. There are five good bedrooms and a bath-room on the second +floor. The rear part is measurably separated from the front by a door. A +projecting bay window from the family bedroom is shown. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 32.] + +Plan No. 34. This is another plan that was made to order. It is an +economical arrangement, and, in many respects, very convenient and +satisfactory. The single stairway, passing from the dining-room, will +be the least satisfactory feature about the whole house to the majority +of people. However, the idea in this connection is a good one. It is +economical in that it dispenses entirely with the hall. Furthermore, +this stairway starts from a room which will be used less than any on the +first floor. Few people will be inconvenienced by the use of the +dining-room as a hall. Part of this stairway goes into a hall leading to +the kitchen. The china-room and pantry arrangements in this house are +very satisfactory. On the second floor are five bedrooms and a +bath-room. The hall is lighted by a dormer over the stairway. This +building, without appurtenances, would cost about $2,500, as per +schedule "B." + +[Illustration: Plan No. 33.] + +Plan No. 35 is a house with a side entrance for small boys, which is +sometimes wanted. This plan meets such a requirement. In the rear hall a +coat closet is provided; also a rear stairway. The vestibule in front of +the reception-hall is sufficiently large to admit of the placing of hat +rack and other vestibule furniture. The stairway is a pretty feature, +though not satisfactory to all. There is a closet in connection with the +music-room. In actual construction one was provided from the kitchen. +The second floor is self-explanatory. It was built, as per schedule "B," +for $2,500. + +Plan No. 36. The requirements of the occupants of this building are +peculiar. A large number of bedrooms are required. Other than bath and +bedrooms, there are only the dining-room, parlor, and kitchen. There is +no cellar. There is a combination stairway. One run starts from the +front, and the other from the rear. The landing is in the centre on the +second floor. Cost of this building, $2,000, as per schedule "B." + +[Illustration: Plan No. 34.] + +In No. 37 the stairway is back of the reception-hall. It is +distinctively in the centre of the house, and is accessible from all +rooms. There is a passage through two doors from the kitchen to the +front part of the house. There is also the usual pantry passage. On +the second floor there are four good bedrooms, a linen closet, and a +bath-room. The cost of the building, without appurtenances, would be +about $2,100, as per schedule "B." + +[Illustration: Plan No. 35.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 36.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 37.] + +Plan No. 38 is another square, one-chimney plan. The house is broad +enough so that it gives a little better bath-room arrangement than is +shown in some of the narrower plans. The great drawback to this house is +that there is only one stairway, and that in front. If a cellar is +wanted, the stairway can go down under the main stairs. + +Plan No. 39. This plan has six bedrooms on the second floor. The hall on +the first floor has two closets in front. There is a projecting bay +window from the first landing of the front stairway. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 38.] + +This house was built for a minister. The library room is shown. +Projecting from it is a window-seat. On one side is a large fireplace. +The dining-room is separated from the front part of the house by a hall. +Both sitting-room and dining-room have bay ends of a form to give a view +to the street in front. The side-hall communicates with the kitchen as +well as the dining-room. In this hall is a closet, presumably for the +boys. There is a liberal supply of closets on the second floor. The +servant's room is cut off from the other part of the house. The attic is +plastered. This building, without appurtenances described in schedule +"B," cost $3,500. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 39.] + +Plan No. 40. The rear hall with the side entrance is the thing which +will commend this house, as far as its floor plan is concerned. It is an +old-style plan, and is wasteful of room. The building cost about $3,100, +as per schedule "B." + +Plan No. 41 is an eight-room house with a simple stairway. The outside +walls are of brick. It has a side entrance. The plan is a fairly good +one. There are two closets on the first floor, opening from the hall. +There is an abundant supply on the second floor. The building cost +$3,400, as per schedule "B." + +[Illustration: Plan No. 40.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 41.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 42.] + +Plan No. 42 belongs to the centre hall type, which is less common now +than in years past. The parlor, as here lettered, is in reality the +sitting-room. A bedroom is shown on the first floor. In each of the four +principal rooms a grate is indicated. A hall communicating with the +second floor from the cellar is shown in the rear. The kitchen, pantry, +and china-closet arrangements are such as have been fully described in +other chapters. The side-porch, next to the pantry, affords means of +putting ice into the refrigerator without coming into the room. The +reception-hall and dining-room are connected by sliding doors. Five +bedrooms and a bath-room and liberal closets are shown on the second +floor. The front stairway to this floor is broad and easy. The details +of the exterior of this structure were carefully rendered, and the +appearance altogether satisfactory. An outline drawing of the front is +shown. Small gables, similar in design to the one in front, show from +the sides. The building, according to schedule "B," cost $2,800, without +the appurtenances. + +[Illustration: Fig. 23.] + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + + EIGHT PLANS.--EACH SUITED TO FAMILY REQUIREMENTS.--DOUBLE + HOUSES.--AN ELABORATE FLOOR PLAN.--A SHINGLE HOUSE.--A BRICK HOUSE. + + +Plan No. 43, while not economical as to arrangement, is well suited to +the requirements of the people who own it. There are no children. The +lady does not employ a servant. The cost of the building would be about +$2,200. + +Plan No. 44. Double houses are not easy to plan where they are very +long. This house was built, one part to live in and the other to rent. +The living part has an entrance to the front; and the rental part one, +removed from it, at the side. The centre partition is lined on both +sides with sheathing lath; that is, sheathing with dovetails cut into +it, so that the plastering will stick to it, which makes it solid, and, +to a certain extent, deadens the sound. The lettering of the plan +clearly indicates its arrangement. The cost, without appurtenances, as +by schedule "B," is $5,000. + +Most of the plans given that are only two rooms deep may be made into +double houses by enlarging the amount of window space front and rear, +and placing the bath-room side of the house on the exposed side. This +gives direct light. + +[Illustration: FIGURE 24.] + +Plan No. 45. This house is built on a plat of ground having about +seventy feet frontage. The side-hall arrangements give two entirely +independent rooms in front. There is a good closet in the hall. From +here we pass to the dining-room, library, or parlor, and to the +second floor. Only one stairway is used. The pantry and china +arrangements are shown. We enter the cellar stairway from the pantry +passage. The kitchen is planned according to the general principles +previously set forth. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 43.] + +On the second floor are four bedrooms and a bath-room. Each room, +including the bath, is supplied with closets, and there is a linen +closet in the hall. A stairway leads to the attic, in which there is an +abundance of room for other chambers, should they be needed. The +building, without appurtenances, according to schedule "B," cost $2,100. +Fig. 24 is a photographic view of exterior. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 44.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 45.] + +Plan No. 46 is not greatly different in its general arrangement from +others that have been shown. The details, however, are more complete, +and it is generally more satisfactory than other houses of the same +type. The vestibule arrangement in the front hall is very satisfactory. +There is a window-seat under the stairs. The china-room arrangement is +convenient. It has an open stairway running out of it to the rear of the +second story. There is a laundry in the basement, and large closets on +the second floor. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 46.] + +Fig. 25 is an elevation. It is a very picturesque house. Cost, as by +schedule "B," $3,400. + +Plan 47. This house was designed for a west frontage. It has a porch in +front, a pagoda extension on the south side, and a carriage-porch on the +north side. There are a set of storm doors and double inside doors. The +reception-hall is thirteen by fifteen feet in the clear. At one side of +this hall is a grate. There is an archway over the front window. On +each side of the mantel are shown seats, which may be treated as a part +thereof. + +The stairway may be seen from this reception-hall. It is separated from +it merely by an open-work screen. The parlor connects with the +reception-hall by sliding doors. It has a large window in front, and two +smaller ones at the side. + +[Illustration: Fig. 25.] + +The parlor connects with the sitting-room by sliding doors, as shown. +There is a similar sliding door connecting the stair-hall and +sitting-room. Thus the reception-hall and stair-hall, sitting-room and +parlor, may be thrown together. + +There is a bay end at the south side of the sitting-room. Sliding doors +are not indicated between the dining-room and sitting-room, or between +the dining-room and hall. They could be so placed, if desired. + +There are two doors from the sitting-room to the dining-room, one on +each side of the fireplace. There is sufficient wall space in the +dining-room that these doors may be folded out of the way. The library +connects with the stair-hall and rear hall. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 47.] + +There is a large closet room under the stairway. In it is a small +closet, and places for a chest of drawers, and a wash-stand. This would +be particularly useful in case the library were to be used as a bedroom. + +There is a door separating the rear from the front hall. There are two +doors between the kitchen and the rear hall. The passageway between +these doors is lighted by a window. + +The sideboard in the dining-room is built into one end of this room. The +windows are placed about five feet above the floor, and would look well +of stained glass. + +The kitchen is sixteen by sixteen feet. On one side are a table, sink, +drain, and table, successively arranged as here named. In the +china-closet is an extension of the last-named table. There is a slide +which cuts off communication between the china-closet and the kitchen +when this table is not in use. In the china-closet are another sink, +table, etc., which could be used for washing and caring for the china, +glass, and silver that one does not care to take into the kitchen. + +There is good ventilation in the kitchen. Back of the range are shown +two flues. A dry-box is placed on a level with the top of the range, and +has openings in the bottom and into the flue. In this way, any articles +placed therein will be readily dried and ventilated. The warm air from +the range passes through the box and into the flue. + +In the pantry are a dough-board and flour-bins, a cupboard for stores, +and one for utensils. There is space for an ice-box or refrigerator next +to the rear porch. It has a drain connection with the outside. + +The landing of the front stairway is in the front of the building, as +shown. The rear stairway is separated by a door from the rear hall. In +the bedrooms, the beds, dressing-cases, and wash-stands are indicated on +the plan. The front chamber has a circular window in front. Each room +can be entered from the hall without going through any other room. There +is a grate in each chamber. The closets are all very large; in each of +the front rooms they are three and one-half by four and one-half feet. +In the south-side chambers one is three and one-half by four feet, and +the other is four by four feet. In the rear hall there is a large closet +which may be used for general purposes. In all closets on this floor +there is abundant room for drawers, hooks, shelves, etc. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 48.] + +The bath-room arrangement is somewhat different from that in general +use. It will be noticed that the water-closet is separated from the +bath-room proper, though connected with it by a door. One can enter +either the bath-room or this water-closet room from the rear hall. In +the bath-room is a large closet in which may be arranged a chest of +drawers, and, if desired, a ventilated receptacle for soiled linen. This +closet is lighted by a window. Cost, as by schedule "B," $10,000. + +Plan No. 48 is of a house well suited to the requirements of the people +who live in it. Fig. 26 is a view of the exterior. It is a shingle house +of a severe type. The side projection is a combination of brick and +stone. Cost, without appurtenances, $3,400. + +[Illustration: Plan No. 49.] + +Plan No. 49, without appurtenances, has been built for $3,400. It is +finished in both stories in hard wood, has a front and rear stairway, +and a side entrance. A central chimney contains four grates. The closet +arrangement is as good as in any plan in this collection. + +Figs. 27 and 28 are elevations. Fig. 28 shows how the conservatory at +the side is finished so as to appear with, and as a part of, the porch. + +[Illustration: FIGURE 26.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 27.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 28.] + +[Illustration: Plan No. 50.] + +Plan No. 50. This is a plan of a brick house, built, without +appurtenances, as per schedule "B," for $10,000. The external walls are +of selected dark cherry red brick, laid in red mortar. The stone work, +where exposed above grade, is of Ohio red sandstone, quarry face. There +is very little detail to the exterior. The general style of design is +quiet and unobtrusive. Red sandstone is selected to go with the +brick-work in order to present a solid mass of color, rather than a +variation between a light stone and brick work. The interior is complete +in all its details; the attic is finished as well as the parlor; all is +of quartered oak. Over the butler's pantry, in the rear of the hall, is +a balcony. Above this balcony is a large window, twelve feet wide and +ten feet high, divided with narrow mullions, and glazed with artistic +patterns of stained glass. At one side of the hall is a large fireplace, +with panelled wood-work above to ceiling. The sides of the hall are +wainscoted to the height of six feet with small panels. The ceiling is +of oak. The dining-room and library are finished the same as hall, with +oak ceiling omitted. Other details of the plan, in the light of what has +been said in previous chapters, are self-explanatory. All has been +planned according to the general principles set forth. The butler's +pantry is arranged so that all china and glassware are cared for in that +room rather than in the kitchen. Fig. 29 is an exterior view of this +plan. + +[Illustration: Fig. 29.] + + + + +PRACTICAL HOUSE-BUILDING. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + + PRACTICAL POINTS.--WATER.--LOCATION OF HOUSE ON LOT.--DRAINING THE + CELLAR.--MASON + WORK.--FOUNDATIONS.--WALKS.--PIERS.--FLUES.--CISTERNS.--DAMP + COURSE. + + +In this section of the book it is proposed to consider, in as plain a +manner as possible, the construction of all the details of a house. + + +LOCATING THE HOUSE. + +First is the placing of the house on the lot. If it have an east or a +west front, it is common to set the north side of the house within a few +feet of the north line. On a small lot this gives more south and sun +exposure. The distance the house is set back from the front of the lot +depends largely upon what one's neighbors have done or may do. In the +case of a north or south frontage, the west side of the house is usually +placed to the west line. This brings the east side of the house in the +afternoon shade. Under any circumstances, there should never be less +than eighteen inches of space beyond the north or west wall. If the +projection of cornice is greater, there should be more than this. + + +WATER. + +The next thing to do when one begins to build, is to provide water for +the builder. This is from the city water service, if any; otherwise from +a well. If a driven well is used, it is best to locate it on the inside +of the house, near the kitchen sink, and allow the builder to provide a +common pump for use during building operations. The cistern and well +pumps should go into the plumber's contract. It is not necessary that +all the plumbing contract be let at the time the city water service is +supplied. The method of letting contracts is explained in another part +of the book. + + +EXCAVATING. + +In excavating for a house, the loam, or upper strata of earth, should be +separated from that which comes below. After the walls are placed, the +openings around the outside should not be filled at once; certainly not +until the wall is dry and the mortar set. After this, the grading and +filling should begin. The grade line of the house should be slightly +above that of the sidewalk, and there should be a general slope to it. +If there is an alley in the rear, the slope should be divided to reach +it, if possible. The drainage, excavating and filling connected with the +plumbing, gas supplies, etc., should be done early in the building +period. Thus the entire surface becomes compact and natural by the time +the building is finished. If it should become apparent that there will +be superfluous earth, it should be removed from the lot. + + +DRAINING. + +Where there is a clay soil, and in sections of the country where cellars +are inclined to be damp, they should be drained. This is done in various +ways; usually by running an open farm tile around and below the level of +the cellar wall, which should have connection preferably with a dry +well; but if nothing better presents itself, with the sewer drain, +although a connection of this kind is not safe. The air which will come +into this drain from the sewer will contaminate the soil, and in that +way affect the health of the occupants of the building. In some +instances a sewer connection from this drain is necessary, but only then +should it be used. + +Another method of draining a cellar is to excavate below the level of +lowest mason-work, and fill in a depth of about twelve inches with +broken stone, which is given a drain connection with proper outlet. The +space between stone particles acts as a drain. + + +MASON-WORK. + +[Illustration: Fig. 30] + +The mason-work should be of brick or stone. First, we will consider that +of brick, which is common to frame houses and is sometimes used for +brick buildings. The foundations, walks, piers, and flues should be of +hard burned brick. All should be laid wet, excepting in freezing +weather, with lime mortar. The outside exposed brick should be +preferably of a dark cherry-red color, laid in white or red mortar. The +latter is in most general use. The joints for exposed work should be in +form as indicated in Fig. 30; in mason's parlance, these are called +"rodded joints." The joint is first cut down from above, with trowel, +then the rod is placed along the upper edge of the joint, and the mortar +is cut away with a knife in the form indicated. Then the vertical joints +are trimmed in the same way; thus no mortar projects beyond the face of +the brick. This form of joint is desirable for all kinds of exposed +work, where one desires better work than is usual in foundations and +other exposed brick work. Brick work should have struck or common joints +in the cellar and outside exposed walls, only where small cost is of +great importance. Brick work should be left rough where it is desired to +plaster. Foundation walls and piers usually continue from sixteen to +thirty inches above grade; twenty or twenty-four inches is most common. +On this is placed a sill in most frame houses. Outside walls and piers +generally begin from eighteen to thirty inches below grade line, where +not influenced by the cellar. In an ordinarily cold climate the freezing +line is four or five feet. Eighteen inches or two feet is usual, +however, in the construction of frame buildings, and the results are not +unsatisfactory. A damp-course of slate or hard limestone is sometimes +placed just above the grade line, to prevent the passage of moisture +from the brick wall below to that above. These general statements as to +brick work apply alike to that used in brick and frame buildings, as do +also the statements as to interior walls, chimneys, etc., which follow. + +To prevent the passage of moisture through brick walls below grade from +the outside, a coating of Portland cement is sometimes used. Coal-tar is +also used, but is not as good as the cement. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + + BRICK FOUNDATIONS.--LAYING BRICK.--COLORED MORTARS.--COLORED + BRICKS.--BRICK VENEERING.--HOT-AIR FLUES.--DETAILS OF BRICK + CONSTRUCTION.--CHIMNEYS AND FLUES.--HOLLOW + WALLS.--CELLAR.--ASH-PITS.--GRATES. + + +A brick wall under a frame house is ordinarily nine inches thick; that +is, it is called a nine-inch wall. In reality, it is the thickness of +the length of a brick. Under these walls are placed footings. For a +two-story frame house there are usually two footings of two courses each +projecting two inches. Thus a nine-inch wall would have the bottom +footing seventeen inches wide. In ordinary American brick work there is +what is called a bond to each seventh course. The bond is made by laying +the brick crosswise the wall rather than lengthwise. In that way it ties +or bonds the wall together in the direction of its length. Below grade, +where the brick work is not exposed, the bond is made by laying a +continuous course of brick in this way. Above the grade, the bond is +made by laying each alternate brick across the wall. This is called a +header and stretcher bond. The stretcher is the brick which lies +lengthwise the wall in the common way, and the header is the one which +shows its head and runs crosswise the wall to form the bond. Thus there +is a continuous row of alternating headers and stretchers in the bond +course, which occurs, as said before, each seventh course. Another bond, +by some brick-layers called the American bond, does not show on the +outside. The corners of the inside of the outer row of bricks are +clipped, so that the bond brick runs part way into the outside course, +and thus is out of sight. It is an artificial arrangement and not +satisfactory; it is not good construction. The header and stretcher bond +is the best for exposed work, where both appearance and solidity are to +be considered. There are other forms of bond,--the old English and the +Flemish,--but they need not be considered here. + +All brick should be thoroughly "slushed" with mortar; that is, all +spaces between brick should be thoroughly filled. The ideal condition +would be to have all brick excepting the exposed faces entirely +surrounded by mortar. + +The selection of the brick for the exposed fronts in a frame as well as +a brick house should be made before the brick work is begun; at least a +large supply should be selected and piled up. While the brick cannot all +be of the same shade, different shades can be selected for different +walls--a lighter shade for a north wall, and a darker for a south wall, +a different shade for an east and a west wall. Very slight variations +can be made in the ells and projections. This would apply to pressed, +stock, or common brick, though pressed brick is usually selected before +delivery. + +The best color for exposed work is a dark cherry red. The best-appearing +work with indifferent brick can be made with the use of a reddish brown +mortar. The use of this kind of mortar is increasing. White putty mortar +is made in the ordinary way, excepting that white sand, similar to that +from Lake Pontchartrain, rather than gray sand, is used. It contains +more lime than ordinary mortar. The mortar is said to be richer. + +Black brick are made by heating and then dipping in coal-tar. Enamelled, +glazed, and colored brick can be purchased in the larger markets as +desired. Various forms of ornamental brick work are possible even where +only the common brick are used. Moulded pressed brick are quite common, +and the results of their use very satisfactory. + +Brick veneering is not unusual in sections of the country where brick is +very expensive and the effect of a brick house desired. It is a +four-inch brick wall anchored to a frame structure. The anchoring is +sometimes accomplished by driving twenty-penny nails into wood-work in a +way to project into joints. + +Hot-air flues in brick walls are sometimes tin-lined, though this is not +necessary when they are smoothly plastered, providing it is possible to +make them eight inches square. If they cannot be made deeper than the +width of a brick, four inches, they should be tin-lined. A four-inch +hot-air flue can be placed in a nine-inch wall by setting the two +outside rows of brick on edge. + +Hollow walls have not been regarded with great favor during recent +years, for the reason that it is difficult to secure their proper +construction. A hollow wall is usually twelve inches in thickness, with +the middle course of brick omitted excepting at the corners and adjacent +to openings. Suitable ties are placed across the open space. + + +CELLAR. + +It now is in order to consider various features of interior brick work +and details which come in connection therewith. Cellars are usually from +seven to eight feet deep. As this does not give all the height necessary +for furnace or other heating apparatus, it is usually pitted; that is, +it is let down into the cellar floor, and a brick area built around the +opening to the furnace-door. Because of the necessity for pitting the +furnace, the walls of the house adjacent thereto should continue +eighteen inches below the level of other walls. + +Walls inside of cellar should continue to the top of joist. This +completely separates the different compartments of the cellar, or from +that part of the house where there is no cellar. + +There should be a man-hole opening to the parts under the house where +there is no cellar. + +Lintels or wooden supports should be provided over all openings in +cellar, and over all openings in inside brick walls. + +Wooden brick should be provided and built in where it is necessary to +attach wood work to brick work. Usually this is about two feet six +inches apart in a vertical or horizontal direction. The wooden brick +should be the thickness of the brick itself and the mortar joints; that +is, there should be no mortar above or below a wooden brick. Iron +ventilators should be provided; one in each outside wall under each room +where cellar windows are not provided. Windows are not usually provided +where there is no cellar. + + +CHIMNEYS. + +It is known that wood-work should not come directly in contact with +chimneys. The framework should never rest on a chimney. There are +reasons for this other than those which have a regard for safety from +fire, one of which is that the chimney is not liable to settle. If it +does not, the shrinkage of the wood-work, which in a two-story frame +house will sometimes amount to two inches in the height of the building, +makes a high place around the flues, where the frame comes in contact +with or rests on the chimney. All chimney-stacks should extend above +highest point of ridge of roof, and the extreme tops should be laid in +Portland cement. All the exposed brick of the chimney should be +hard-burned. If due regard were paid to these points, there would be no +rickety chimney-tops. All flues should be thoroughly plastered on the +inside. If chimneys were plastered on the outside, wherever they come in +contact with the wood-work, the complaint of fires from defective flues +would be hushed. + +Fig. 31 illustrates the common form of constructing a chimney breast +where a grate is to be used. The flues are eight and one-half inches +square. A passage to the ash-pit is shown. The grate opening is two feet +wide; the jambs on each side are one foot six inches wide; thus the +entire width of the breast is five feet. Other dimensions as indicated. +Where there are grates on two floors of the house, one above the other, +or where it is desirable for any reason to have a flue pass around a +grate, it is necessary that the breast should be five feet wide. It is +clear that the grate from below must have its own flue out to the top of +the chimney. Thus the grate flue from the first story must pass around +the grate of the second story, if there be one. If there is no grate +above, or if it is not desired to pass a flue around the first-story +grate, the chimney breast need be only four feet wide; that is, it would +have the usual two-feet opening to the grate, and twelve rather than +eighteen inch jambs on each side. On one side of the dotted line is +indicated flue construction for a brick wall, and on the other for a +wood wall. + +[Illustration: Fig 31] + +The hearth should rest on what is called a trimmer arch, which is made +of brick. It springs from the chimney breast to the header of wood in +front. It is four inches in thickness. It is laid in the ordinary way, +and at the proper time is filled on the top with concrete by the +mantel-setter. In case a grate on the second floor connects with the +ash-pit, one of the flues at the side is used for this purpose. + +Fig. 32 indicates a common form of corner grate. The flues in this as +well as Fig. 31 are drawn close together and come out through the attic +and roof in a smaller stem. There should be distinct separation of +flues. + +[Illustration: Fig 32] + +Ash-pits are frequently made of four-inch brick walls strengthened by +brick pilasters. These pits are usually from three to four feet in depth +and the width of the chimney breast, and nearly as high as the depth of +the cellar. Where more than one grate empties into an ash-pit, it is +common to divide it into compartments, one for each fire. The top of the +pit is crowned with a brick arch. Ash-dumps are sometimes provided for +the grate, depending, of course, upon the kind of grate used, and +ash-pit doors of iron for the pits themselves. + + +OUTSIDE CELLAR-WAY. + +The side walls of an outside cellar-way should continue to the bottom of +cellar. It should be floored the same as the cellar itself. + + +AREAS. + +Areas of brick should be provided around all cellar openings that +continue below grade. The bottoms of these areas should be floored with +paving-brick. This is better than cement, as it admits of natural +drainage. + + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + + STONE MASONRY.--CUT STONE.--TERRA COTTA.--PRIVY + VAULTS.--CISTERNS.--FILTERS FOR CISTERNS.--BRICK PAVEMENTS.--CEMENT + PAVEMENTS. + + +Stone foundations for dwelling-houses are usually made of native stone, +and anything that may be said here must necessarily conform to general +rather than special conditions. The best stone that can be used for this +purpose is hard, non-absorbent limestone. There are many varieties of +stone conglomerates throughout the country which are valuable for +foundation uses. Stone should be laid up in lime mortar in the direction +of its natural bed in the quarry, with a sufficiency of bond stone. For +ordinary dwelling-house work there should be at least one footing eight +inches in depth, and six inches projection on each side of the wall. +Stone walls for foundations are usually made not less than eighteen +inches in thickness. It is not easy to lay a good stone wall less than +eighteen inches in thickness. While the same number of cubic feet of +stone work may cost less than brick work, a stone foundation ordinarily +would cost more than one of brick for the reason that a brick wall does +not have to be so thick. It usually takes about half the number of cubic +feet of brick work that it does of stone work to answer the same +purpose. Where stone is available at low cost it is best to use it. +Interior brick walls may rest on stone footings. The inside of stone +walls should be neatly pointed after other work has been finished. Stone +work above grade may be finished in many ways--random range work, +rubble work, regular course range work, etc. After the other work has +been finished, the mortar should be raked out a short distance and a +finish joint added. + + +CUT STONE. + +Cut-stone work is too large a subject to consider in detail. There are +several points which cannot be overlooked. There should be drips cut +under all projections, so that the water will not run down the other +stone or brick work and stain it. A drip is merely a little V-shaped +channel cut on the under side of the stone work. They are found on the +under side of most window-sills. In door, window, or other openings, the +stone work should underlie or overlie all wood work at least two inches. +This may be explained by stating that the stone window-sill should +underlie the wood sill two inches, and the window cap should overlie the +wood cap at least two inches. Generally speaking, coping should project +on each side of the wall about two inches. Sills should extend at least +one inch beyond the face of the wall. Window-sills should be no less +than five inches in thickness. Door-sills should generally be about +seven or eight inches, and extend at least one inch beyond the face of +the wall, and through its full thickness. The water table of the stone +foundation usually forms the window cap of the cellar windows, and the +cap course, which comes at the grade line, the cellar window-sills. In +this case it is necessary that the stone should run farther into the +wall where the openings occur. + +Stone steps are not over six and one-half to seven and one-half inches +in thickness, with from nine to twelve inch treads. They underlie and +lap about one inch, and have walls, the same material as the +foundation, for lower supports. These walls should go to the full depth +of the house walls with which they come in contact. Thus there is no +danger of settling. Stone steps are frequently used in the front of the +yard from the side-walk to the grade level where there is considerable +elevation. In such cases it is necessary to use stone side pieces for +the steps, to prevent caving and to make a neat finish. Where flagging +is cheap, it is well to use it for walks and porch floors. + + +TERRA-COTTA WORK. + +Terra cotta is the perfection of brick-making. It is the only building +material which is not affected by changes of temperature, or other +natural or artificial conditions to which the building may be subject. +It may be described as being a very plastic material; that is, anything +can be done with it. It can be worked into any form that is desired, +excepting long lintels, and even in that case there are means of +arriving at the desired result and giving a lintel form in a very proper +manner. Ornamental terra cotta is modelled by artists before being +burned, and the best results may naturally be expected. + + +PRIVY VAULT. + +The size of the privy vault is usually three and one-half by four and +one-half feet, elliptical, and from ten to twenty feet deep, according +to the character of the soil. Usually it is walled up with four-inch dry +brick wall. Piers should be provided at corners for privy building. In +some instances it is required that the privy vault should be made +water-tight. In that case it should be built the same as a cistern, with +round bottom and cemented interior surface. When it is desired to +connect the privy vault with the sewer, it should be cemented in the +manner just described, with a siphon vitrified pipe connection with the +drain to the sewer. The siphon prevents solid rubbish, which may be +thrown into the vault, from getting into the drain and clogging it. + + +CISTERN. + +The cistern is generally located near the rear kitchen wall, say ten or +twelve feet therefrom. The walls, arch, and neck are usually four inches +in thickness when capacity of cistern does not exceed one hundred and +twenty-five barrels. Otherwise the brick work mentioned should be eight +inches in thickness. The brick should be laid in domestic cement, and +smoothly coated with Portland cement. It should be connected with the +down spouts of the house by means of vitrified drain-pipe, the same as +described in connection with plumbing work, though it has no connection +therewith. + +The following table gives capacity of cisterns of various sizes. + +CAPACITY OF CISTERN IN GALLONS FOR EACH TEN INCHES IN DEPTH. + + +-------+----------++--------+----------++--------+----------+ + | DIAM. | || DIAM. | || DIAM. | | + | IN | GALLONS. || IN | GALLONS. || IN | GALLONS. | + | FEET | || FEET. | || FEET. | | + +-------+----------++--------+----------++--------+----------+ + | 2 | 19·50 || 6-1/2 | 206·85 || 12 | 705·0 | + | 2-1/2 | 30·50 || 7 | 239·88 || 13 | 827·4 | + | 3 | 44·60 || 7-1/2 | 275·40 || 14 | 959·6 | + | 3-1/2 | 59·97 || 8 | 313·33 || 15 | 1,101·6 | + | 4 | 78·33 || 8-1/2 | 353·72 || 20 | 1,958·4 | + | 4-1/2 | 99·14 || 9 | 396·56 || 25 | 3,059·9 | + | 5 | 122·40 || 9-1/2 | 461·40 || 30 | 4,406·4 | + | 5-1/2 | 148·10 || 10 | 489·60 || 35 | 5,990·0 | + | 6 | 176·25 || 11 | 592·40 || 40 | 7,831·0 | + +-------+----------++--------+----------++--------+----------+ + + +FILTERS. + +There are various ways of forming a filter. One is to have a small +cistern of eight or ten barrel capacity, located between the main +cistern and house. It should be divided by a brick wall laid in mortar, +but not cemented on either side. The water enters on one side, passes +through the brick wall in the middle, and from thence to the cistern +beyond. Another plan is to cement the wall, leave an opening at the +bottom, and pack the side on which the water enters with charcoal, sand, +and gravel. The water passes through this packing and the opening below +to the other side of the filter, and then to the cistern. Still another +plan is to build the partition as first described on the inside of the +cistern proper. All of the water passes to one side of the divided +cistern, and through the partition before being drawn out. Thus it has +to pass through the brick before it is to be drawn out. Still another +filter is made by building what is called a beehive in the bottom of the +cistern. It is a beehive form of brick work, with the pump pipe leading +to the inside, so that all water has to be drawn through the brick +beehive before it is pumped out. According to this plan, as well as the +others mentioned, the water is strained through the brick. + +It is best that the cistern and independent filter, when used, should be +provided with iron rims and cast-iron covers. It is good practice to +connect the cistern with a dry well, which is constructed the same as an +open vault excepting that the top is arched. This dry-well connection is +by means of five-inch vitrified pipe laid in the same manner as sewer +pipe. + +There is a practice, altogether too common among builders, of connecting +the cistern overflow with the vault or sewer. Nothing could be worse +than this. The water is certain to be polluted. + + +BRICK PAVEMENT. + +Brick pavements are used for walks around the house, and sometimes for +cellar floors. Cement floors, however, are better for cellars. Brick +pavement of all kinds should be made of hard-burned bricks, laid on a +six or eight inch bed of sand. The brick walk should not be laid until +after all the grading and filling of the lot has been done. It is best +to leave the brick walks out of the general contract, so that this work +can be delayed until after the house is finished. It is a good thing to +have the sodding and the paving in the same contract. The contractor who +attends to the sodding can work the two together to a better advantage +than if the walks were placed and the sodding done afterwards. + + +CEMENT PAVEMENT. + +Cement pavements are used for walks around the house, and for cellar +floors. Cement is more expensive than brick. The surface to be covered +should, first, be levelled, then saturated with water; after which is +laid a three-inch bed of cement concrete, made of gravel, sand, and +cement in proper proportions. Upon this is placed a three-fourth-inch +layer of cement mortar. Ordinary American, hydraulic cement may be used +for concrete, but for the three-fourth-inch layer nothing but best +Portland cement should be considered. Sometimes the cement work in the +cellar is done by the plasterer. Outside cement work for walks requires +special skill. In most large cities there are those who make a business +of doing this work. They have different formulas and methods of reaching +the proper results. + + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + + CARPENTER WORK.--FRAMING.--SIZE OF TIMBERS.--HEIGHT OF + STORIES.--JOIST.--STUD WALLS.--OUTSIDE + SHEATHING.--BUILDING-PAPER.--ROOFS.--OUTSIDE FINISH.--OUTSIDE + SHINGLE WALLS.--OUTSIDE CASINGS.--WINDOWS WITH BOX FRAMES.--HINGED + OR PIVOTED WINDOWS.--OUTSIDE SHUTTERS.--PORCHES.--LATTICE PORCHES. + + +CARPENTER WORK. + +In considering carpenter work, we will first take up framing, and +everything which pertains to the outside of the house. All material used +for framing should be sound, square-edged material, free from +imperfections tending to impair its use, durability, or strength. In +different parts of the country, different kinds of lumber are standard +for framing purposes. In the South and sections contiguous to it, yellow +pine is used; in the North, white pine, hemlock, Norway spruce, poplar, +and even hard wood. It is neither profitable nor desirable in this +connection to indicate any particular material; it is natural to use the +cheapest that is sufficiently strong for framing. The following table +indicates the sizes of timber in common use in framing an ordinary +dwelling. + + Sills, outside walls 6' × 8" + Sills, inside walls 6 × 8 + Lintels, over openings 6 × 10 + Girders, over piers 6 × 10 + Plates 4 thick + Rafters, 20 on centres 2 × 6 + Horizontal purlins, or roof supports 4 × 6 + Roof posts 4" × 4" + Bridging 2 × 4 + Joists, 1st tier 2" × 10" × 16" on centres + " 2d tier 2 × 10 × 16 " " + " 3d tier 2 × 8 × 16 " " + " deck 2 × 6 × 20 " " + Studs 2 × 4 × 16 " " + Rafters, or deck joist, 16" on centres, when to be plastered. + +Sizes here given may not be adapted to all sections. There is no +occasion for being arbitrary. The sizes may be conformed to the material +which is ordinarily used. + +Stories ten and a half feet high are generally considered the limit in +an ordinary frame house at this time. Nine and a half and ten are more +common. This is quite different from the general tendency to high +stories a few years ago. Certainly, it is more rational. + + +JOISTS. + +Joists are usually dressed, so that they have about one-half-inch crown +or curve on their upper surface, which would make the centre of the room +about one-half inch higher than the sides. They should be trimmed so +that all are of the same width and form. Double trimmers and +headers--that is, double joist--should be framed around all +chimney-breasts, well-holes, scuttles, and openings in the wall. In +dwelling-house work they should be mortised and tenoned together, as +should be the pieces connecting therewith. In very cheap work headers +and trimmers are sometimes spiked together. This is not good practice. +For very good work, where heavy weights are to be carried, trimmers and +headers should be supported on wrought-iron strips. This, however, is +not necessary in ordinary dwelling-house work. + +Joists longer than eighteen feet should be twelve inches in width. +Those running adjacent or parallel to partition or other walls should be +firmly spiked thereto. Double joists should be placed under all +partitions and supports having no support from below. Where the weight +is extra heavy, the double joists should be trussed by a +two-by-four-inch stud, spiked in truss form, between them. There should +be one row of truss bridging to each span or tier, size as indicated. +Header should be framed across pipe duct, about eighteen inches +therefrom. + + +STUD WALLS. + +See Fig. 33. Walls and partitions are usually of two-by-four-inch +studding. In large houses it is best that the studding be two by six +inches, and plates four inches in thickness and the width of the +studding are commonly placed at the bottom and top of the walls of each +story. Sometimes, however, the studding continues to the height of two +stories, and the joists are supported on a one-by-six-inch "ribbon" +piece let into the studding. + +[Illustration: Fig 33] + +Trusses or supports should be framed over all openings. Sliding-door +pockets or runways should be lined with flooring. All corners and angles +should be framed solid and have two-inch projections for lathing. +Studding four by four inches thick should be framed around all window +openings and on three sides of the door openings; bridging, two by two +inches, one row for each story. Grounds should be placed on the inside +openings, and elsewhere for plastering. The pipe duct, fourteen inches +wide, should be placed between studding from kitchen to attic floor. All +outside walls of frame houses should be diagonally sheathed with +seven-eighths-by-six-inch dressed sheathing. Tongued and grooved +material is best for this purpose, although it is not in common use. All +sheathing should be covered with six-pound sized building-paper. + +Sometimes the insides of brick walls are furred. This means that they +are lined on the inside with wood strips two inches in thickness, +sixteen inches on centres, and then lathed and plastered. This prevents +the passage of the moisture through the brick into the inside of the +room. + +Various forms of sheathing lath for inside sheathing of a frame house +are now in use. This form of lath contemplates a seven-eighth-inch +tongued and grooved sheathing on the inside with dove-tailed channels +cut into its surface, which form key-room for the plastering. + + +ROOF. + +Most roofs can be formed with out-posts and purlins. All can be formed +in this way where cost is not considered. An ordinary dwelling-house of +the size given in these plans does not require separate posts and +purlins. There should be double rafters around all chimneys and openings +in the roof. + +The roof should be sheathed with seven-eighths by four-inch material; +where exposed to view, with five-and-one-half-inch beaded flooring. +Where deck framing is required, posts and purlins are necessary, size +according to weight to be carried. + +Where shingles are used for roofing, they should be laid four and +one-half inches to the weather for sixteen-inch shingles, with two nails +to each. It is best that shingles should be dipped in stain, oil, or +paint before they are put on the roof. The durability of shingles is not +increased by being painted after they have been laid. The ridge finish +of the shingle or slate roof should be of galvanized iron, with about +four-inch lap on each side. It may be made as ornamental as desired. +Wood should never be used for this purpose. Hips and ridges of slate or +shingle roofs may be finished with tin or galvanized iron, lapped on +each side about three and one-half inches. Gutters of galvanized iron +set up on the first course of shingles or slate, with metallic support +from above or below, are better than gutters of wood tin-lined. + +Where slate covering is used, any size slate desired may be employed, +bearing in mind that the bond should not be less than three and one-half +or four inches. There should be two nails to each slate. + + +OUTSIDE FINISH. + +All lumber used for outside finish should be thoroughly seasoned, clear, +smoothly dressed, and free from imperfections tending to impair its use, +durability, strength, or appearance. Poplar is the ideal building +material for outside finish. It takes paint better than other woods used +for this purpose. However, pine is generally used, for the reason that +it is cheaper. Weather-boarding is usually laid with an inch lap four +and one-half inches to the weather; three and one-half inches is better. + +[Illustration: Fig 34] + +Drop siding, or German siding as it is sometimes called, makes a warmer +and better wall than weather-boarding. It is usually six or eight inches +wide, and in form and construction as indicated by Fig. 34. + +Outside shingle walls are now quite common. Shingles are used for +ornamental purposes in a large proportion of the houses that are built; +in some instances they are used exclusively for outside covering. In +such cases they are undressed, and are stained commonly with one of the +proprietary stains now on the market. Before being placed they are +dipped into the stain for about eight inches from their buts, and are +laid in piles to dry. Any desired color may be secured, and there are +instances where stained shingled walls have gone without any attention +or expense for eight or ten years. + +Dressed shingles are commonly painted. Their form may be as ornamental +as desired. Outside shingles are sometimes laid five and one-half inches +to the weather, but four and one-half is better. It is not uncommon at +this time to leave all shingles unpainted and unstained. The effect is +very agreeable when they become weather-stained. + + +OUTSIDE CASINGS. + +All horizontal trimmings and casings should be bevelled on the top to +shed the water. They should run back under the shingled weather-boarding +or other outside covering. There should be tin covering for all +projections in excess of one and three-eighths inch. Ordinary window or +door casings outside are usually three-eighths inch thick. + + +WINDOWS. + +All windows in the part of the house regularly occupied should have box +frames. Pulley styles should be of hard wood, and the inside bead should +be secured with round-headed screws. Sash for plate glass should be one +and three-fourths inch thick; side rail, two and one-half inches in +rabbet; bottom rail, three and one-eighth inches; and meeting rail, one +and one-fourth inch in the rabbet. Sash for common glass may be one and +three-eighths inch thick. Other sizes, as given. Sash, for rooms +finished in hard wood is better when of the wood in which the room is +finished. However, where there is great variation this is not necessary. +Quartered oak is the material commonly used for hard-wood sash. Almost +any hard wood is more liable to warp than pine. All box frames should be +provided with turned axle pulleys. Nothing but the best plaited cotton +sash-cord should be used. Necessary weights should be provided. + +In some of the plans where wide front windows are indicated, the design +is called pocket head. There is a pocket above the head of the frame so +that a high sash may be run into it. The sash may be pushed up into the +pocket; that is, it runs into the wall above the head of the frame. +Where the pocket-head window is used, it is necessary that there be a +clear space above the frame for the sash to be run up equal to the +height of the sash itself. + +Hinged or pivoted windows have rabbeted frames which are usually one and +three-eighths inch thick. They are used for the most part in unfinished +cellars, attics, and unoccupied parts of the house, and preferably for +pantry, store-room, and, occasionally, bath-room windows. They may be +hung on hinges or pivots. Hinges are better, for the reason that fly +screens cannot be used where the sash is pivoted. Sills should slant +twenty degrees, with drip piece secured to outside. This prevents the +storm from blowing water to the inside. + + +OUTSIDE SHUTTERS. + +Outside shutters are usually one and three-eighths inch thick, with +movable slats; if more than six and one-half feet high, they should be +made in three panels each. Arrangements are provided by various +manufacturers of hardware for opening outside shutters from the inside +of the room. They may be swung either from the sides or top at will. +When they are suspended from above they act as an awning; they admit the +air but not the rays of the sun. + +Sometimes shutters are cut at the meeting rail, so that the upper or +lower section may be opened as desired. + + +PORCHES. + +At this time it is not usual to provide special ceiling for porches. The +rafters and all exposed material are dressed so that they may be painted +or stained. Floor joists are not usually more than two by eight inches; +sills, about six by eight. The floor should be inclined about one-eighth +of an inch to the foot, and made of hard wood, tongued and grooved, not +over two and three-fourths inches in width. Edges should be finished +with nosings, which are rounded edges. The roof of the porch is usually +the same as that of the body of the house. Gutters are similar to those +on other roofs. + +Railing and turned balusters are usual, excepting where an opening for +passage is desired. + + +LATTICE PORCH. + +Framework of lattice porch is generally the same form as other porches. +The covering is usually made with one-and-three-eighths-inch material, +laid diagonal; openings, one and three-eighths inch. Door and hardware, +same as used for other parts of the house, are generally provided. + + +OUTSIDE STEPS. + +Outside steps of wood usually have hard-wood treads made of +seven-eighths-by-two-and-one-half-inch pieces, with three- eighths-inch +space between; carriages should be two by ten inches, about sixteen on +centres. Railing and posts for steps should be provided if necessary. +Lattice should be placed under porches and outside steps, and between +all outside piers. Outside lattice-work in yard may be of the same +general design as mentioned for lattice-work porches. + +General statements as to outside wood-work apply alike to brick or frame +houses, with certain omissions that should be obvious to an intelligent +reader. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + + INSIDE WOOD-WORK.--FLOORS.--SOFT AND HARD WOOD FLOORS.--TABULATED + STATEMENT OF INSIDE FINISH.--DIFFERENT KINDS OF WOOD.--DOORS AND + FRAMES.--FLY SCREENS.--INSIDE CASINGS.--WAINSCOTING.--INSIDE + SHUTTERS.--WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBING.--KITCHEN SINK AND + FITTINGS.--KITCHEN TABLES.--CELLAR-SINK FITTINGS.--WOOD-WORK FOR + BATH-TUB.--WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--TANK.--PICTURE + MOULDING.--CLOSET + FITTINGS.--BROOM-RACK.--CEDAR-CLOSET.--DRY-BOX.--CLOCK + SHELF.--CHINA-ROOM FITTINGS.--PANTRY FITTINGS.--STAIRWAYS. + + +INSIDE WOOD-WORK. + +All material should be perfectly clear, first-class, thoroughly +seasoned, kiln-dried, dressed material, free from imperfections tending +to impair its use, durability, strength, or appearance. All inside +finish excepting floors should be sand-papered. Where an especially good +finish is desired, all should be scraped as well. + + +FLOORS. + +In preparing for floors, it is not unusual to make arrangements for +preventing the passage of sound. This is done by deadening. The usual +method is to nail strips about two inches and a half from the top edge +of the joist, on which are laid one-inch boards. This leaves an inch and +a half between their surface and the upper edge of the joist. This may +be filled in with concrete, mineral wool, or other non-conducting +material. Either is very effective in preventing the passage of sound +from the floors to the rooms below. In a dwelling-house where two +floors only are in common use, it is only necessary to deaden the second +floor. + +A permanent sheathing floor of the same material that is used for rough +siding may be placed over all joists of first and second floors for a +floor during the plastering of the house. This does not act as +deadening, unless concrete or mineral wool be placed over it. It is well +to have a floor of this kind for use during plastering. It also makes +the lower floor warmer. It should be covered with building-paper before +the finished floor is laid. Finished floors should extend throughout the +first and second stories and the attic. They are commonly of pine or +other soft wood. The material is tongued and grooved, secret-nailed, and +should be smoothed off after laying. The boards should never be wider +than five and a half inches, nor less in thickness than seven-eighths of +an inch. They should be free from sap, large, loose, or black knots. +Hard-wood floors may be of hard pine, oak, maple, or other hard wood +that is readily obtainable or desirable. This material should not be +more than two and three-fourths inches in width, nor less than +seven-eighths of an inch in thickness, and should be tongued and +grooved, secret-nailed, and smoothed off and scraped after laying. A +better grade of pine flooring than that mentioned may be had if desired. +It is best that all floors be laid after plastering. However, this is +not the common practice. The carpenter should cut out flooring as +directed, and prepare for hearths in proper places. Other inside dressed +wood-work should never be placed in position until after the plastering +is finished and dry. + +The following table is from a specification in use by myself, and shows +the kind of lumber, style of doors, finish of wood, painters' finish, +and rooms supplied with plate glass, and the general style of hardware. +The detail specification makes clear the points here outlined. The +filling out of the blanks indicates the range and style of finish which +frequently occur. The lettering of the doors and finish refers to +drawings and details, a part of which are given in this connection. + + +---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+ + | | | D F | T O D | P F | R W P | S H | + | | | O I | H F O | A I | O I L | T A | + | | | O N | I O | I N | O T A | Y R | + | | | R I | C R | N I | M H T | L D | + | | KIND | S S | K . | T S | S E | E W | + | FLOORS. | OF | H | N | E H | - | A | + | | LUMBER. | A . | E | R . | G | O R | + | | | N | S | S | L | F E | + | | | D | S | ' | A | . | + | | | | | | S | | + | | | | | | S | | + | | | | | | . | | + +---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+ + | FIRST FLOOR. | | | | | | | + | Front Hall | Qu. Oak. | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | + | Parlor | " " | A | 1-3/4 |All Oil.| -- | -- | + | Sitting-Room | " Sycamore.| A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | + | Library | " " | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | + | Rear Hall | Gum. | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | + | Dining-Room | " | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | + | Chamber | -- -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | + | Kitchen | Plain Oak. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | Bedrooms | -- -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | + | Pantry | " " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | China Room | " " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | | | | | | | | + | SECOND FLOOR. | | | | | | | + | Front Hall | Gum. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | Chamber | Pine. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | Rear Bedroom | Poplar. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | Alcove | Pine. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | Bath-Room | Qu. Oak. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | Rear Hall | Pine. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + | Other rooms | " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | + +---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+ + +It may be said, in general terms, in regard to the different kinds of +wood used in finishing a house, that, all things considered, hard wood +of one kind or another is preferable, for the reason that it stands the +general wear and tear of house-keeping with less evidence of the +struggle. Soft wood--pine or poplar--is only to be used because it is +cheaper than the other. Quartered oak, quartered sycamore, cherry, +maple, walnut and chestnut may be classed as the hard woods in ordinary +use in finishing houses of moderate cost. Gum is difficult to class. It +is neither hard nor soft. Others might be mentioned in this same +connection. Pine and other resinous woods are mentioned as soft woods; +as is also poplar, called in some sections white-wood. Any of these +woods may be oil-finished, according to the general formula indicated +elsewhere, or any of them may be stained. Birch stains very nicely. + + +DOORS AND FRAMES. + +Door-frames, when rabbeted, should not be less than one and +three-eighths inch in thickness. Sometimes the strip is screwed to the +frame. In that case the frame is often not more than one and one-eighth +inch thick. One and three-eighths inch, however, is better. Front doors +or principal entrance doors are frequently hard wood when all the others +are soft wood. All outside doors are generally filled with glass in +their upper panels. Sliding doors should be the same general design as +other adjacent doors. One additional panel to each additional twelve +inches in excess of width of other doors may be provided. Sliding doors +should be hung from above. Hard-wood doors are usually solid. All +excepting pine are best made of a veneer, one-fourth inch thick on a +one-and-three-eighths-inch pine body, as indicated by Fig. 35. Sometimes +doors are made in two thicknesses of hard wood. This is not as good as +a single thickness. Three thicknesses are better. The only door to be +recommended, however, is the veneered door. Such doors will not warp; +others are liable to do so. Transoms may be hung on pivots, and should +be provided with catches, and, if heavy or high, with adjustable lifts. +Transoms are sometimes used in doors on the second floor, though this +practice is less common than in the past. Where doors with transoms are +used, it is not uncommon to have the closet doors extend to the full +height of the transom tops, and provide additional top panels. Doors six +feet ten inches in height, or less, and not more than one and +three-eighths inch in thickness, may be hung on two three-and-one-half +by three-and-one-half-inch buts. If higher than this or wider than three +feet, they should be hung on three buts or hinges. + +[Illustration: Fig. 35] + +Doors in unfinished cellars may be made of two thicknesses of +seven-eighths beaded flooring; frames the same as in rooms above. A +seven-eighths batten door, with one-and-three-eighths-inch frame, should +be provided for man-hole in cellar. Scuttle doors, where required, may +be seven-eighths inch in thickness, battened. + +[Illustration: Fig. 36] + +Cuts 35, 36, 37 indicate ordinary style of inside door and window +finish, the sizes and heights being marked. Doors from dining-room to +china-closet and china-closet to kitchen should be hung on double-spring +hinges, so that they will swing either way and come back to position. +The slide from the kitchen to china-closet or dining-room should be hung +the same as sash, with plaited cotton sash-cord, pulleys, and weights, +and provided with lifts and bolt fastenings. + +[Illustration: Fig. 37] + +Frames should be provided for opening into bay windows, window-seats, +alcoves, and pilasters. + +Stop beads for glazed and sliding doors should be secured with +round-headed screws. + +There should be corner beads for external angles. + + +FLY SCREEN. + +In the modern house all outside openings, from cellar to attic, are +provided with fly screens. They are now made by concerns who make it a +business to do this work, and are much better than those made by the +ordinary carpenter. They are arranged so that they will slide up and +down on the inside or outside stop, and are finished in every way to +correspond with the other wood-work of the house. They need not be more +than three-quarters of an inch in thickness if properly made. A small +strip is secured to the stop bead, and a corresponding groove is cut in +the screen frame. A spring therein holds it firm, and admits of their +removal without trouble or waste of time. Special hardware is provided +for door and window screens. + + +INSIDE CASINGS. + +The commonest way of constructing casings at this time is indicated in +Figs. 35 and 36, showing inside of doors and windows. This is one of the +least expensive forms, and is adapted to all ordinary work. The casings +are usually seven-eighths inch thick, the corner and plinth blocks one +and one-eighth inch thick. The plinth block comes at the bottom of the +casing. One reason that this form of casing is in such general use is, +that the corner block conceals any slight shrinkage which there may be +in the wood. Where there is a mitred or flush joint, the shrinkage is +certain to show. Casings as elaborate as any one is inclined to pay for +may be used. Window, door, alcove, and other casings are generally all +of one design in a room. All girders and projections below ceilings +should be cased. + + +BASE. + +The base-board around the room should be plain, so that it may be +readily cleaned. Where it is ornamented, it adds nothing to the +appearance of the room. There should be a base for all plastered walls. +Generally they should be not more than eight inches high, seven-eighths +inch thick, bevelled at the top and a quarter round at the bottom. A +five-eighths-inch adjustable lip may be put on at the top, to take up +the inequalities in the plaster. The closet base may be formed of a +quarter round only if it is plastered and skimmed to the floor. It is +well to have as little wood-work as possible in the closet. + + +WAINSCOTING. + +Wainscoting kitchen, bath, and other rooms is not as common as it once +was. This is because wood-work is more difficult to keep clean than +plastering. Wherever there is wainscoting, there must necessarily be +joints. These are difficult to keep clean. Panel wood-work, or other +form of decoration for wall or ceiling, may be used in rooms according +to the disposition of the owner and the taste of the architect. + + +INSIDE SHUTTERS. + +Inside shutters are not so universally used in good houses as they were +a few years ago. Draperies, though more expensive, are preferred, and +are taking their place. Inside sliding shutters, arranged in several +sections and constructed according to the general plan described for +fly-screens, are in more common use. Rolling slats which roll into a +pocket are to be thought of only in connection with an expensive +dwelling. The common inside shutter is ordinarily seven-eighths inch in +thickness, four panels wide, beaded, and cut at the meeting rail; and +the four centre panels are provided with movable slats. The special +designs of inside shutters mentioned are manufactured by various +establishments throughout the country, and are advertised in various +magazines and periodicals. Under any circumstances the owner will have +to investigate proprietary goods and special furnishings for himself. +They are not to be considered in a work of this kind. + + +WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBING. + +All should be put up in a way to make plumbing readily accessible by the +removal of screws. The pipe duct should be located as required in the +kitchen, and pass from basement to attic floor. The inside measurement +should be seven by twelve inches. It should be constructed of seven +eighths-inch lumber. In case of stud partitions, the duct may be let +into the wall the full depth allowed by studding. The front will project +into the kitchen. All should be of clear lumber, the same as other wood +used in finishing. A ventilating opening, five inches in diameter, may +be provided at the top of the duct. This may be connected with pipe and +funnel, or other device, placed over the kitchen range. The carpenter +should provide pipe boards for all pipe runs. The following, in regard +to wood-work for plumbing, is from the specification of an architect: + + KITCHEN SINK AND FITTINGS.--Wood rim, 7/8 by 2-1/2 inches; skirt, + 7/8 by 6-1/2 inches; support on cleat at back, plain oak, + 1-3/8-inch turned legs in front. + + SPLASH-BOARD.--7/8 by 14 inches, scurfed back; 7/8 by 2 inches, + plain top. + + DRAIN-BOARD.--Shall be 22 inches long by 21 inches wide, 7/8 inch + thick, 1 inch incline; channelled top; skirt, 3 by 7/8 cleated with + two cleats at bottom. One end shall rest on sink, side on wall + cleat, other end on turned leg. + + Full length of tables, sink, and drain. + + TABLES.--There shall be two tables connected with drain and sink, + each 21 inches wide, 2 by 6 inches long, 7/8 thick; skirt, 3 by 7/8 + inches. Cleated back. Secured and supported same as drain. + + OTHER SINKS:-- + + CELLAR SINK.--Provide 7/8-by-3-inch supporting rim, 2-1/2 inches by + 7/8 inch top. 1-3/8 square legs. + + BATH-TUB.--Case sides and ends with 7/8-by-2-3/4-inch oak board, + tongued and grooved material, secret-nailed. Batten foot-casing, + and put in in one piece with round-headed blue screws. Cap top. + + SPLASH-BOARD.--Wainscoting same as tub casing, 6 inches high. Cap + top in two members 7/8 inch thick. + + WATER-CLOSET.--Hinged flap and seat, each 7/8 inch thick; skirt, + 7/8 by 5 inches; support on 1-3/8 turned legs in front, cleat at + back. + + Case water-closet tank, mould top. + + WASH-STANDS.--Provide supports under marble top. Case sides same as + specified for tub. Make cleated door in front of same material. + Provide hinges and fastenings. + + TANK.--A tank shall be placed in attic; capacity, 8 barrels. + Construct with 1-3/4-inch ploughed and tongued material, with two + 3/8-inch rods, bolts, and nuts at each end, and cleats across top + at middle. + + In this house there shall be the following plumbing fixtures, to be + fitted up as above: 1 kitchen sink, cellar sink, sink, 1 bath-tub, + 1 water-closet, 1 wash-stand. + + +PICTURE MOULDINGS. + +Picture mouldings should be provided on all plastered walls excepting +those of kitchen and pantries. It is usual to place the picture moulding +on a line with the top of the door; that is, so that it comes just below +the top of the corner block. + + +CLOSET-FITTINGS. + +Shelves should be seven-eighths inch thick, number and arrangement as +desired. + +The following is a schedule from closet-fittings. Provide hooks in +closets as follows:-- + + One row to cleat on wall 5 feet 3 inches from floor. + + One row under side of shelf. + + One row to cleat on wall 3 feet 6 inches from floor in children's + closets. + + +DRAWERS FOR CLOSETS. + +Drawers for closets are best made by a cabinet-maker. If not, they +should be modelled in all respects after cabinet work. Cedar closets +are not as common as they once were. As people have more to place in +them, there is less confidence in their efficacy. The following is from +a specification:-- + + BROOM-RACK.--Provide in space as directed 1 broom-rack, with + cast-iron broom-holder, for sweep-broom, whisk-broom; hooks for + dust-pan and bucket. + + MEDICINE-CHEST.--Provide in closet a medicine-chest 8 by 10 by 16 + inches, with 7/8 panelled and hinged door. Approved lock. + + Exposed wood-work thereof same as room in which closet is placed. + + CEDAR-CLOSET.--Closet shall be lined, ceiled, and fitted up with + red cedar. + + DRY-BOX.--Secured on wall adjacent to kitchen range shall be placed + a drying-box for scrub-rags, brushes, etc., 8 inches deep by 18 + inches wide by 24 inches high, constructed with 7/8 material, + inside measurements. Provide hinged 7/8-inch panelled door with + fastening. Top, bottom, and shelves shall be perforated with + 3/4-auger-holes for passage of warm air through the box. + + SOAP-BOX.--Constructed same as dry-box. Size, 9 inches deep, 20 + inches wide, 30 inches high. + + Door, 7/8 inch thick, panelled. Provide approved lock. Shelves, 5/8 + thick, set into sides, 3 inches apart. Perforate bottom and shelves + with 3/4-inch auger-holes, and connect top with kitchen or + vent-flue. + + CLOCK-SHELF.--Provide 8-inch moulded clock-shelf, 7/8 inch thick, + in kitchen. + + VENTILATOR. CLOTHES-CHUTE. COAL-CHUTE. COAL-BINS IN CELLAR. + + +CHINA-ROOM SPECIFICATION. + + CUPBOARD (see drawing, Chapter VII.).--Shelves as directed below + and above. Lower shelves 7/8 inch thick. + + Lower doors 7/8 panelled, upper doors glazed. + + Provide hinges and fastenings for all. + + There shall be 8 inches space between 7/8-inch top of lower section + and bottom shelf of upper section. Upper door shall not come below + under side of this upper section shelf. + + TABLE.--Construction same as in kitchen. + + SINK. + + DRAWERS. + + +PANTRY SPECIFICATION. + + CUPBOARD (see drawing, Chapter VII.).--As indicated. Doors below + and shelves above, same as specified for china. No doors above. + + DOUGH-BOARD.--Provide constructed same as tables specified for + kitchen, except that it shall be supported on brackets. + + FLOUR-BIN.--Shall be 18 inches deep by 24 inches high in front, 28 + inches in rear, by ---- long, ---- compartments. Set 4 inches from + floor. Top cleated and hinged. Lumber 7/8 inch thick. + + +FLOUR-BIN. + +The flour-bin described in the specifications is the old kind with the +hinged top. Another kind that has been used successfully is here +illustrated. + +[Illustration: Flour-bin Section.] + +[Illustration: Flour-bin Front] + +The receptacle for flour is pivoted in the manner indicated by the +section. The pivot position is indicated on the drawing by the point of +the arrow. The dotted lines on the section indicate the position of the +flour receptacle when it is open. It is pulled open by the hand. The +knob is shown on the drawing of front. As soon as it is released it +falls back into a closed position. It is pivoted so that it remains +closed unless held open. The front drawing indicates a flour-bin of this +kind with three receptacles; the larger one for flour, and the two +smaller ones for meal and graham. The marble dough-stone can be placed +on the top of a bin of this kind. If there is no other room for the bin +it can be placed in the lower section of the pantry cupboard, and can +take the space ordinarily given one of the doors. The pantry cupboard is +illustrated and described in Chapter VII. + + +BOXES FOR PANTRY SUPPLIES. + +These boxes are constructed on the same principle as the flour-bin, just +described. They are pivoted and arranged in a row, and may be set on a +pantry shelf. The drawing indicates eight of these boxes, four of them +nine by twelve inches, and four five by three and three-fourths inches. +These boxes are of tin, the frame only being of wood. The socket into +which the pivot fits is open at the bottom, so that the box can be +lifted off the pivot and taken out and washed. An arrangement such as +this takes very little room, and the boxes are always closed unless held +open. They are so pivoted that they fall into a closed position as soon +as released. Two of these boxes in a china-closet would be convenient to +hold bread and cake. + +[Illustration: Box for Pantry Supplies.] + + +STAIRS. + +The wood-work of the stairway should always be of hard wood. Where hard +wood is used for entire finish, the stairway is best of the same +variety. The treads should always be one and one-eighth inch in +thickness, and never less than ten inches in width. The risers may be +seven-eighths inch thick and never more than seven and one-half inches +in height; Square or turned newel posts are in common use. Winders +should not be used for the main stairway. Square turns at the landing +should be made. Sometimes the rear stairway is of the same general style +and design as the front. When it is an open stairway, it is necessary +that this should be the case. A rear box stairway, the cellar and attic +stairway, or, in fact, any box stairway, should have the treads and +risers the same thickness and general dimensions as those mentioned for +the front. However, they need not be of hard wood. They should always be +provided with hand-rails. All lumber for cellar or attic stairways +should be clear and dressed, and quite as well finished as that of any +other part of the house. When the cellar is not plastered, the side +lining for cellar stairways should be seven-eighths-inch flooring below +the first-story plastering. This flooring should be dressed on both +sides. The outside cellar-way should have dressed treads and risers one +and three-fourths inch thick. The wall should be capped, preferably with +stone, and the outside cellar door should be of iron. Where economy is +necessary, one-and-three-fourths-inch oak coping and doors may be used. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + + PLASTERING.--GRAY FINISH.--WHITE HARD FINISH.--BACK + PLASTERING.--GAS-PIPING.--TIN WORK.--GUTTERS.--VALLEYS.--DOWN + SPOUTS.--GALVANIZED IRON-WORK.--HOT-AIR + PIPES.--THIMBLES.--PAINTING.--STAINING.--OIL FINISHING.--INTERIOR + STAINING.--FLOOR FINISH.--GLAZING.--PLATE-GLASS.--BEVELLED + GLASS.--CATHEDRAL GLASS.--HARDWARE. + + +It is only within the last ten or fifteen years that it has been at all +common to do two-coat work in plastering. Before that time three-coat +work was almost universal. Most of the plastering done at this time is +what is called "laid-on" work. The first two coats are put on at the +same time. The last coat is put on after these are dry. The laths are +nearly always of pine. There should be one nail for each contact with +the wood-work; that is, four nails to each lath. The mortar should be +made of the best quality of lime and sharp sand. + +A sufficient quantity of hair should be used. The mortar should be +floated, or made smooth, and straightened to receive the wood-work. The +last coat should be put on after the other is thoroughly dry. It should +be trowelled to a smooth surface, and when completed should be free from +chip cracks, stains, and improper mixing of sand. Three-coat work, where +each coat is allowed to become thoroughly dry, is better than two-coat +work. The last coat is usually a white plaster-of-Paris finish, put on +with the skim. + +A gray finish is used more generally at the present time than in the +past. It is put on in place of the white skim coat. + +The natural color is a pleasant gray tint. It may be made smooth enough +for papering. The skim coat, white or gray, may be tinted with fresco +color at less cost than it can be papered. Paper becomes necessary on a +white skim finish after a short time. + +The hard white finish, which is not commonly used at the present time, +is very satisfactory excepting for its extreme whiteness. This finish is +made by the use of white sand and skim rubbed and floated down until +only a sufficient amount of the lime or skim proper remains to cement +the sand to the wall. The same kind of a finish with gray sand is very +satisfactory. + +Proprietary finishes for plastered walls are now used to some extent in +the better class of work. They are very hard, of waterproof texture and +of any color desired. The coloring of finish for plastering is +ordinarily not successful. However, some of the proprietary colored +goods before the public are very satisfactory when well put on. The one +difficulty in the way of their use is in getting the plasterer to handle +properly a thing with which he is not familiar. + +Back plastering is common in very cold climates, and is done by +plastering on the back of the sheathing between the studding. It is +independent of the inside plastering. + +Cement pavements in floors are considered in the previous chapter. + + +GAS-PIPING. + +Gas-pipes are placed in a house before lathing. The gas company which +supplies the illuminating or fuel gas furnishes the inspection for each +set of pipes. Below is given a form of specification in use by an +architect in a natural-gas region. + + +GAS. + + ILLUMINATING GAS.--Provide and fix gas-pipe and fittings according + to gas company's regulations. All pipes shall be concealed, + excepting where it is desired to attach a burner. Cap pipes. + Lights to be placed as indicated by table below. + + FUEL OR NATURAL GAS.--Provide and fix pipe and fittings according + to company's regulations. Company's certificate of approval will be + required before payments are made. Cap pipes until mixers and + burners are attached. + + Valves and connections shall be provided preparatory to mixer and + burner connections. Provide connection with street mains. + +TABLE OF DISTRIBUTION. + + +-------------------------+-----------------+---------------+ + | |ILLUMINATING GAS.| | + | FLOORS. +-----------------+ NATURAL-GAS | + | |CENTRE. |BRACKET.| FIRES. | + +-------------------------+--------+--------+---------------+ + | | | | | + | FIRST FLOOR. | | | | + | | | | | + | Parlor or Reception Room| - | - | - | + | Porch | - | - | - | + | Sitting-Room | - | - | - | + | Front Hall--newel | - | - | - | + | Dining-Room | - | - | - | + | Library | - | - | - | + | Chambers--each | - | - | - | + | Rear Hall | - | - | - | + | Bedrooms--each | - | - | - | + | Kitchen gas stove| - | - | Range. | + | Pantry | - | - | - | + | China-Room | - | - | - | + | Cellar | - | - |{Furnace. | + | | | |{Laundry stove.| + | | | | | + | SECOND FLOOR | | | | + | | | | | + | Chambers--each | - | - | - | + | Bedrooms--each | - | - | - | + | Alcove | - | - | - | + | Front Hall | - | - | - | + | Rear Hall | - | - | - | + | Bath-Room | - | - | - | + | Attic | - | - | - | + +-------------------------+--------+--------+---------------+ + + +TIN WORK. + +It is now entirely possible to get first-class tin plate for +architectural uses. The process is very simple. Require and pay only for +a tin plate stamped with a reputable maker's name and brand. There is a +general effort upon the part of tin-plate dealers to raise the standard +of tin in this way; and there are now a number of manufacturers of +integrity who are pursuing the course of branding a first-class tin +plate. All tin work should be painted on the under side before it leaves +the shop. + + +GUTTERS. + +In the matter of general utility the hanging gutter is ideal. It is +below the eaves, where its overflow can injure nothing. It is easy to +reach all parts of it in case of repair. If it is necessary to remove +any of the shingles or other roof covering, the gutter need not be +disturbed. There are those, however, who object to the appearance of a +hanging gutter. A galvanized iron gutter made of No. 26 iron, in form as +per Fig. 33, and which runs four inches above the overflow line at all +times, may be placed on the first or second row of shingles or slate, +and will give very good satisfaction. It is certainly much better than a +wood tin-lined gutter. + + +VALLEYS AND OTHER TIN WORK. + +All valleys should be lined with twenty-inch tin. The connection between +all roof and vertical surfaces should be flashed and counter-flashed; +that is, pieces of tin should be bent to conform to the vertical and +horizontal surfaces, and slipped under the slate or shingles so as to +lap both horizontally and vertically. This is the flashing. The +counter-flashings are the lapped pieces of tin which extend into the +vertical surfaces, and down over the flashings proper. + +All wood-work which projects in excess of one and three-eighths inch +from any vertical surface, should be covered with tin. Hip and ridge +coping should be covered with tin in the manner described in chapter +where roofs are considered. + +Down spouts should be provided to carry the water from all roofs to the +ground. The presence of more than one gable in the front part of the +building frequently makes more than one down spout necessary. Where the +house is not too large, one five-inch spout will usually take all of the +water from the roof. For a small structure a four-inch spout will serve +the same purpose. Three and four inches are in common use for carrying +water from the main roof where the continuous course of the gutter is +interrupted by gables or dormers. The cistern down-spout should be +provided with cut-off or preferably a switch spout, which connects by a +drain pipe with a dry well or street gutter. Such connections should +never be made with the sewer where a down spout is intended to supply a +cistern. In connecting a roof with a cistern it should be borne in mind +that it is not always so much the size of the cistern which insures a +constant supply of water, as it is the amount of roof surface connected +with the cistern. + +Porches are usually provided with two or three inch down spouts +according to the amount of roof to be drained. + +Flat roofs are best when made with a standing seam. It admits of the +expansion and contraction of the tin without injury to the joint. + +Copper has been extensively used on the better class of buildings during +recent years. The improvement in the quality of tin has rendered its use +unnecessary excepting for down spouts and ornamental purposes. New +processes in the manufacture of sheet copper, and the electroplating of +other sheet metals with copper, promise to reduce the cost of that +material for architectural purposes, so that it will be better and +cheaper than tin. When such claims are substantiated the public will be +informed thereof, through the usual channels. + +Galvanized iron does not have the general architectural uses that were +common to it a few years ago. For down spouts in excess of four inches, +No. 26 galvanized iron should be used. + +Hot-air pipes which connect the furnace pipes in basement with the +second floor are usually three and three-fourths by twelve inches in +size. Before they are placed, all contiguous wood-work should be lined +with tin. In frame houses the pipes should be covered with iron lath. +They should continue above baseboard, with register opening on second +floor and below joist with collar in basement. Where pipes run in an +outside wood wall, which they should do only in case of extremest +emergency, the back and sides of the pipe should be lined with several +thicknesses of asbestos paper. + +A zinc drain should be provided from the refrigerator to the outside of +brick wall. This drain is one inch in diameter, and comes up through the +floor with funnel-shaped opening at the top. An ordinary six-inch tin +funnel let into the tube will answer every purpose. Thus the discharge +pipe from the refrigerator may be readily placed over it. + +Thimbles should be provided for the plasterer when he is putting on the +last coat. Flue stops should be placed therein after plastering is +finished. These are for stove connections with brick flues. + + +PAINTING. + +Painting is not so serious a problem as it once was. We hear about +people buying their own paint, the lead and everything that goes with +it, and having it mixed under their personal supervision. But even this +is not satisfactory. After a short time the paint begins to look chalky +and dingy. When the mixing of the paint is not done under the +supervision of the owner, and the result is as above stated, the painter +is often accused of dishonesty. + +A painter does not ordinarily have the facilities or knowledge for +properly mixing colored paints. In order to get satisfactory results in +painting, we may again fall back upon the integrity of an established +manufacturer of proprietary goods,--that is, upon ready-mixed paints. +Not all are good. Most of them are made as cheap and common as possible; +but the best results can be secured from really good ready-mixed paints. +Any large dealer of established reputation, who is not himself a +manufacturer of a cheap paint, may ordinarily be relied upon for a +correct opinion. + +Preparatory to painting, all knots should be coated with shellac. All +work should be painted with three coats,--one priming, and two +following. One can always be sure of getting the color wanted in +ready-mixed paints of the best quality. All outside frames should be +primed before setting. The painter should follow the carpenter, and +prime all dressed wood-work as put up. Putty work may be done after +first coat, or before final color is applied. There is no advantage to +be derived in painting shingles after they are put on. The paint gathers +in a heavy ridge on the shingle next to the butt of the one above it in +a way to let the moisture lie therein, so that it will rot at this +point. + +Brick-work may be painted as specified for wood-work, excepting that the +first coat, or priming, should be put on very heavy. + +Tin and iron work should be painted with one coat of metallic paint as +soon as put up. Tin unexposed to view should receive a second coat of +metallic paint before the building is completed. Tin work exposed to +view should have two coats of paint on a metallic prime, same as house. + + +EXTERIOR STAINING. + +Shingles should be dipped in stain and then stood in a trough, so that +they will drain to a barrel. Other external wood-work should have two +heavy coats of stain applied with a brush. Weather-boarding is sometimes +dipped into a trough filled with stain, and then set so that it will +drain therein. Shingle stain is a proprietary finish, and regularly +advertised in leading periodicals. + + +INTERIOR STAINING. + +The staining of interior finish is now rendered simple and satisfactory +by the use of proprietary stains. Sometimes the stain is put on direct, +without first applying filler. At other times a filler of cornstarch and +oil, or a proprietary mixture, which is preferable, is used. One or two +coats of prepared oil-finish follows the application of the stain. The +various manufacturers of interior stains furnish wood samples which +indicate the variety of this material manufactured. + + +OIL FINISHING. + +All wood to be oil-finished should first be filled. The antique and acid +stained effects are derived by the use of different kinds of fillers, +which close the pores of the wood and stain it the color desired. +Proprietary fillers and oil finish may be most successfully used, for +the reason that they are generally prepared by men who have put their +capital into the business for the purpose of getting a return. Such +people cannot put a bad article permanently on the market without +feeling the result themselves. Therefore, those who are permanently +successful in the manufacture of proprietary goods can generally be +relied upon. + +In the finishing of wood-work all under coats should be rubbed with dry +hair-cloth, burlap, or fine sand-paper. On top of the filler two coats +of prepared oil finish should be applied; the first one rubbed as above, +and, if desired, the last left bright. A dead finish may be secured by +rubbing down the last coat with fine pumice stone and water or oil. + +External exposed wood-work and bath-rooms may be finished with a +water-proof varnish by treating as above, excepting that the last coat +should be a water-proof oil finish made by some well-known manufacturer. + + +FLOOR FINISH. + +All manufacturers of first-class interior finishes prepare a special +floor finish. It is usually applied in two coats over a filler as +described. In such cases the filler is not stained. Each coat is +thoroughly rubbed. A satisfactory floor finish may be made by washing +the clean wood floor with a solution of salt and water, and afterwards +saturating with paraffine wax, and then rubbing. + + +GLAZING. + +All glass should be embedded in putty and secured with glazier's tacks +and putty. American sheet glass is made in two thicknesses--single and +double strength--and in four qualities. _A_ or _AA_ only should be used +in a good house. + +Plate glass costs about five or six times as much as double-strength _A_ +American sheet. A thumb rule for calculating the cost of plate glass, +which is not strictly accurate but which gives a general idea, is to +calculate on from fifty to seventy-five cents per square foot. + + +CATHEDRAL GLASS. + +Of cathedral glass proper there is only one quality. In ornamental and +colored glass work the different kinds of glass used will not be here +enumerated. Bevelled plate is becoming quite common. Generally speaking, +cathedral glass may be arranged in geometrical forms in sash with wood +separations or muntins. Cathedral glass proper for such purposes costs +from twenty-five to thirty-five cents a square foot. Cathedral glass +leaded may cost almost any amount in excess of a dollar per square foot. +In selecting cathedral glass for sash with wood separations, the best +and most satisfactory results may be reached by choosing the lighter +tints, and not having more than one or two colors to the window. + + +HARDWARE. + +It is difficult if not impossible to write a general specification for +the hardware which goes into a house. It cannot be done excepting by +specifying particular goods, which cannot be done here. However, a few +general statements in regard to hardware may not be amiss. The cheapest +locks used should have brass fronts and bolts, and be of the mortise +pattern. Night-locks should be provided as desired. Outside knobs of +rear door and those inside the kitchen may be of bronzed iron. The price +of bronzed-faced locks is not much greater than brass-faced locks. A +good bronzed-iron knob has not been made up to this time. Therefore, the +fixtures for the front door, if not all others, should be of real +bronze. + +Butts of bronzed iron have been made which are very satisfactory. Sash +locks should be provided for all windows. Sliding-door hardware should +be of real bronze. The locks should be what is known as "astragal" +fronts, and the trimmings flush. Sliding doors should be suspended from +above on hangers. Bolts of wrought-iron should be placed on all outside +rear doors, and, if desired, on the inside of all chamber and bedroom +doors; always on the bath-room door. Such bolts may be mortised or +otherwise, as desired. Foot and top bolts may be provided for double +doors and for sash. Pivots should be provided for all transoms; transom +lifts as desired, also sash lifts. There should be wooden base knobs +with rubber buffers at all doors. Double-spring hinges should be +provided for doors leading to and from kitchen and china-closet or +passage. Necessary drawer hardware should be provided, and butts, knobs, +and fastenings for inside shutters. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + + PRACTICAL PLUMBING.--WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBER.--EXCAVATING FOR + PLUMBER.--WATER DISTRIBUTION.--OUTSIDE + FIXTURES.--HYDRANTS.--STREET-WASHERS.--SOFT-WATER + SUPPLY.--HOT-WATER SUPPLY.--SOIL PIPE.--INSIDE FIXTURES.--KITCHEN + SINK.--CELLAR SINK. + + +In a previous chapter plumbing was considered from a sanitary +standpoint, and the conditions of safety set forth. In this chapter it +remains to consider plumbing work in a more practical way; to consider +it with reference to its execution, assuming that it is desired to reach +the best results. This means, primarily, good work; then good work with +the least expenditure of money. + +The carpenter usually provides all necessary wood-work for the plumber. +This means boards and runs on which pipes are to be placed, the pipe +duct and other wood finish. It is best that the carpenter should do this +in order that it may be well done. There should be specified in the +carpenter's contract exactly what he is to do, so that he may calculate +on a definite basis. All of the cutting work, where cutting is +necessary, should be done by the carpenter. The plumber is not usually +supplied with tools of the right kind for doing this, and is as liable +to botch carpenter work as a carpenter would be to botch the plumbing +work. + +The plumber should do all of his own excavating. This includes trenches +for pipes of all kinds to and from the house. After the pipes and drains +have been placed therein, he should make fills and thoroughly tamp the +earth so as to restore the surface to its original condition. This may +be best done by putting in a small quantity of earth at a time, ramming +it down and then pouring water on it. Even after this the drain space +should be left with a slight crown, as the earth will settle a little +more than it is possible to make it by artificial means. Superfluous +earth should be removed from the building and lot. + +Plumber's excavating is not included in the general contract. If there +is any superfluous earth in connection with his work, he, and not the +general contractor, should remove it. Contracting methods are explained +in another section of the book. + + +WATER DISTRIBUTION. + +Lead should be used for all purposes where pipes are exposed to view and +where they come in contact with the earth. This is common practice. +Sometimes, however, brass or planished copper pipes and fittings are +used where they are exposed to view. Brass makes very beautiful and +satisfactory work. Iron pipe, galvanized inside and out, is occasionally +used for exposed work. It does not look as well, however, as lead pipe. +Galvanized iron pipe is also frequently used where not exposed to view, +and where it does not come in contact with the earth. Objections will be +made to this by plumbers who are used to doing lead work. In all +hospitals where the best work is done iron or brass pipe is used, and +lead pipe and connections are entirely dispensed with. However, the use +of lead pipe where exposed to view and where in contact with the earth, +and iron pipe galvanized for other places, makes most excellent and +beautiful work for dwelling-houses. The connections between iron and +lead pipe should be of brass. + +The water works of many cities and towns are from direct-pressure mains. +It is common for such pressure to be forty pounds to the square inch +under ordinary conditions. A fire pressure is much greater. Therefore, +all direct-pressure pipes of lead should be extra strong. Tank-pressure +pipes, those which connect with a tank in the attic or above a +water-closet, may be medium strong. The terms "extra strong" and "medium +strong," as here used, are definite in their meaning, and apply to +regular grades of pipe. The interior fixtures of an ordinary +dwelling-house are supplied with lead pipe five-eighths of an inch in +diameter, or iron pipe three-quarters of an inch in diameter. In the +above will be found all that applies in general terms to an ordinary +specification for water distribution. Special mention will be made +later. + +Stop-cocks should be provided sufficient entirely to disconnect and +drain all pipes, fixtures, and connections. "Stop-and-waste" cocks +should be provided at the bottom of all main risers where they cannot +otherwise be drained. A "stop-and-waste" cock is one which shuts off the +supply from its source, and drains the water from pipes above, so that +it passes out to a receptacle provided for that purpose. In some +instances it is allowed to run to a sink on the cellar floor, or it may +be taken in a bucket. + +The city water-supply for an ordinary dwelling-house is generally +through five-eighths-inch extra strong lead pipe, and is provided with a +stop-box so that the water can be turned off from the house at the +street. + + +OUTSIDE FIXTURES. + +Outside fixtures which connect with the city water are a street-washer +and a hydrant. The street-washer is usually placed in front, so that a +hose may be attached to it for sprinkling purposes. There are many +standard grades of street-washers carried in stock by all plumbers. The +hydrant has about the same lower connections as the street-washer. The +hose connection and opening stand well above the lot grade. It is +usually placed in the back yard or stable. The outlet may have a hose +coupling, and thus be used for sprinkling purposes in the back part of +the lot or otherwise, as desired. Where there are no hydrants, it is +common to run an iron pipe along the ground to connect the front and +back yard. Thus it is not necessary to have so large a supply of hose. +The pipe thus used is three-quarters of an inch in diameter. It is less +expensive than rubber hose, and does not deteriorate. It should have a +short hose connection in front, and hose coupling at the back. + + +SOFT-WATER SUPPLY. + +In many cities the water from the public pipes contains too much lime to +be used for bathing or washing. In such a case it is necessary to supply +cistern water for that purpose. This is done by connecting the cistern +in the yard with a tank in the attic, or some place above the highest +fixture. To do this a force pump is placed in the kitchen. The best kind +to use are those known as double-acting, horizontal, brass-cylinder +force pumps. They may be screwed to the floor, and the handle come up +next to the sink or between the drain-board and the dry-board. When not +in use, this handle can be next to the wall and out of the way. A motor +may be used in lieu of a pump. It is placed over the kitchen sink, and +has connection with city water works. When it is desired to pump water +to the attic, one can turn on the city water at the cock and let it +run. Thus the city pressure is exerted through the motor to pump water +to the attic, and the labor of pumping entirely done away with. The cost +is about fifteen dollars more than a good pump. The suction of such a +pump or motor should be one-and-one-half-inch strong lead pipe, and the +supply to tank in attic one-and-one-quarter-inch lead or iron pipe where +not exposed to view. Where the pump or motor is placed as indicated, it +may be used to pump water directly to the kitchen sink, and it is +generally best that such an arrangement be made. Of course, water may be +drawn from the tank in the attic to this sink, if it is desired to so +arrange it; but where this is done, it is necessary to pump all of the +cold water used in the kitchen to the attic. This is unnecessary. The +sink may have a direct pump connection by means of a five-eighths-inch +strong lead pipe which connects with the tank supply. On the end of this +lead pipe may be a brass or nickel compression cock over the sink. When +it is desired to pump water into the tank this cock is closed, and the +only connection is with the tank above. + +The common size for tank is eight barrels capacity. It should be +constructed of inch-and-three-quarters ploughed and tongued material +with two three-eighths inch rods, with bolts and nuts at each end, and +cleats across top and bottom in middle. The inside should be lined with +four-pound sheet lead; that is, sheet lead which weighs four pounds to +the foot. There should be an inch tell-tale pipe of galvanized iron +which connects with the sink nearest the pump. Sometimes an overflow +which runs to the roof is used, in which case a smaller tell-tale, say +one-half inch in diameter, will serve. There are instances where the +tank in the attic is connected with a special gutter on the roof, above +the line of the tank. Then the tank is provided with a large overflow so +that it may not cause trouble. However, this is a little risky. The +tank is connected with the hot and cold water system and fixtures +subsequently named. + +The hot-water system is as simple as it is efficient. Usually a +heavy-pressure galvanized-iron boiler, of from twenty-four to sixty-two +gallons capacity, is located in the kitchen. It is connected with the +tank by means of five-eighths-inch lead or three-quarters-inch iron +pipe, and with fixtures subsequently named as being supplied with hot +water in the same manner. The water is heated in the range by means of a +water back or water front placed in the fire-box of the range. It is +connected with the boiler by means of five-eighths-inch lead and +three-quarters-inch iron pipe. One pipe from the lower part of the +boiler takes the water to the back. The other carries it to the top of +the boiler, the cold water naturally going to the bottom and the hot +water passing to the top. The hot-water supply for fixtures is drawn +from the top of the boiler. Any one may notice, by passing the hand up +and down a boiler of this kind, that the top is always warmer than the +bottom. Sometimes a wrought-iron pipe is used in a stove in lieu of a +water back. It usually answers the same purpose, though its heating +surface is not so great. It is best to use a pipe back where the boiler +is not connected with soft water. The incrustation from the lime is such +that the back soon becomes filled, and it is much more expensive to +replace than one made of pipe. When the hot water is from the city water +works, the supply is usually directly therefrom rather than from a tank +in the attic. However, it is not uncommon to have a tank supply in the +house where public-water supply is taken to the exclusion of all other, +and it is a better system, though a little more expensive. The hot-water +reservoir is usually placed on an iron stand near the stove. It should +be provided with a draining connection for the purpose of drawing out +all the water when desired. A vent connection from the reservoir to the +tank in attic, or, in the event of no tank being used, to the roof +above, is common as a guard against extra steam pressure. + + +SOIL PIPE. + +Before considering other inside fixtures and fittings, the soil pipe +should be mentioned. It is of cast-iron, light weight, and, when it is +connected with a water-closet, should be four inches in diameter on the +inside, and japanned inside and out. Joints are made at the hubs, and +should be leaded and well calked. Connections with this pipe should be +made by means of Y's of proper size, depending on the size of the drain +which connects therewith. The soil pipe should continue upward and +through the roof to a point at least four feet above the nearest ridge. +Below, it should continue outside of the foundation wall to connect with +the drain. Where there is a sink in the cellar, the soil pipe should be +below the cellar floor. Vitrified or earthenware drain pipe should never +be used inside the walls of a house. + + +INSIDE FIXTURES. + +The kitchen sink may be considered first. They are usually of light +cast-iron. Sometimes they are of pressed steel; again, they are of +cast-iron with an interior porcelain finish. If a common cast-iron sink +is painted, the paint soon wears off. The ideal sink, the one which is +the best in every way, is of porcelain. It has the white, glazed surface +of a fine dish, and is easily cleaned. Any kitchen sink should be +eighteen inches wide, six inches deep, and from twenty-four to +thirty-six inches in length. Thirty or thirty-six is the best. They are +provided with a strainer in the bottom, and have one-and-one-half-inch +light lead "S" trap connection with soil pipe or grease sink, +subsequently considered. Where city water is at hand, the sink should be +supplied through a five-eighths-inch brass or nickel-plated self-closing +cock. Where the city water is hard, hot and cold cistern water in +addition to city water should be supplied through five-eighths-inch +brass or nickel-plated compression cocks. If the hot water is from the +public water works, a self-closing cock should be used. All cocks should +be screwed to a soldered nipple, and not "wiped" or joined directly to +the lead pipe. In this way, it is not necessary to wipe a joint every +time the cock gives out. A smaller sink, size as desired, may be used in +the china-closet or butler's pantry. Such a sink is not in common use +excepting in the more expensive houses. + +The cellar sink should be sixteen by sixteen inches, ten inches deep, +and should be provided with strainer, and an inch-and-a-half light lead +"S" trap connection with soil pipe. If city supply only is desired, it +may be had through five-eighths-inch brass self-closing cock. Where +connection is made with cistern, it may be by means of one-and-one-half +inch pipe and a cast-iron pitcher pump; if not this, a well, driven or +otherwise, may be similarly connected by means of a pitcher or lift +pump. This cellar sink is the kind that may be used in connection with +the laundry previously described. Where stationary tubs are used, this +sink is not necessary. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + + PLUMBING WORK + CONTINUED.--BATH-TUBS.--BATH-SPRINKLERS.--FOOT-TUBS.--SAFES. + --WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--LAUNDRY FITTINGS.--SET TUBS. + --OUTSIDE DRAINS.--GREASE SINKS.--NICKEL FITTINGS. + + +The fittings of kitchen and other sinks are fully considered in Chapter +V., which has to do with kitchens and pantries. It is sufficient to say, +however, that the only visible wood-work is the rim and wooden legs, +which support the sink proper, and the splash-boards at the side tables +as described. + + +BATH-TUBS. + +A great deal might be said on this subject, which must be left unsaid +for the want of space. The ideal bath-tub, the one which in every way is +the most satisfactory, is made of porcelain, same as the sinks +described. They are beautiful in appearance, easily cleaned, and +altogether very satisfactory. However, they are expensive. For the tub +alone the cost is about one hundred dollars more than for one of copper. +They are used in houses where the matter of cost is not of great +importance. Cast-iron, porcelain-lined, and cast-iron tubs, painted, are +used occasionally in dwellings. They are more expensive than the copper +tubs. An iron porcelain-lined tub is much less expensive than solid +porcelain, and is very satisfactory. The iron and porcelain tubs do not +require side or end casings of wood. They stand clear of wall and floor. +As is known, tubs are of varying sizes and forms, the usual length being +from four and one-half to six feet. The tubs known as the "French" +pattern are commonly four and one-half feet long, and deeper and wider +than the ordinary copper tub. The weight of the copper varies from nine +to sixteen ounces to the foot; fourteen-ounce copper tubs are in most +general use. The French pattern of tub is coming into more general use +than the others in the best class of work. As stated before, it is wider +and deeper, though shorter than the old six-foot tub of the common +pattern. It does not require as much water to get the same depth in the +shorter tub as in one that is longer. As no one cares to lie down in the +bath-tub, six feet in length is not necessary; four and one-half feet is +ample. + +The ordinary fixtures which go with a bath-tub of moderate cost are the +combination bath-cock with rubber hose and sprinkler, and a plug and +chain. All the metal work is nickel-plated. A combination bath-cock +connection with hot and cold water mixes the water as it passes into the +tub, so that the proper temperature may be secured by the adjustment of +the valves. + +The most objectionable feature to the tub of general construction is the +overflow which connects with the waste. It is simply a tube which has a +single opening below the bath-cock to the waste pipe. This soon becomes +foul. Various ingenious devices have been arranged for doing away with +this kind of overflow. Arrangements are provided which connect directly +with the outlet, and which may be readily removed and cleaned. These +prevent the passage of water to the drain when tub is in use. By a +movement of a handle in the top the passage may be opened below to allow +the water to pass out. There are many devices constructed on this +principle. In some instances they add only two or three dollars to the +cost of the plumbing outfit, and are certainly worth the extra expense. +There are arrangements where the finish is more elaborate, the details +more complete, and the cost largely in excess of the figure here named. +The same device applies to the various tubs, porcelain, iron, or copper. +Formerly it was common to have a large sprinkler connected with hot and +cold water above the tub; this is now unusual. It was impossible to use +this sprinkler without wetting the head. For that reason the hose and +sprinkler has largely taken its place in ordinary work. However, the +sprinkler is a very good thing, though it is not put in excepting where +the hose attachment is also supplied. + +Another modern arrangement which has to do with the sprinkler is a +surrounding rubber curtain, which is supported by a plated ring on a +level with one's head when standing. This prevents the splashing of +water out of the tub. It goes against the curtain, and is thus deflected +into the tub. Various arrangements on this principle, looking to hot or +steam baths, have been devised. They surround the person bathing, +leaving only the head exposed, and discharge the warm water into the +confined space surrounding the body. This is a makeshift to take the +place of hot and steam baths. In some instances, one-third of the foot +end of the tub is fitted with a copper-lined enclosure on three sides, +with shower at top. One may stand in this space and use the shower as +with the curtain. Additions are sometimes made to this arrangement, +wherein the side spray or needle bath is provided. It is so called from +the needle size of the streams, which are emitted from certain pipes. +All of these showers are connected with regulating valves, so that any +desired temperature of water may be maintained by proper adjustment. In +some very elaborate bath-rooms showers are provided at the side of the +room where there is a marble floor and marble wall surface. These things +are arranged with a multiplicity of detail, showing the ingenuity of +people who have given these matters much study, and which cannot be +fully considered in this connection. Foot-tubs, with hot and cold water +connections, are made of the same material that is used in bath-tubs, +but are not considered in the plans furnished in this book, though they +may be used at will. The bath-tub will serve the same general purpose. +As stated, the bath-tubs connect with hot and cold water; they connect +with soil pipe or drain by means of one-and-one-half-inch light lead +waste pipe, which is trapped by means of an "S" or other trap. + + +SAFES. + +A safe is simply a lead pan which may be placed under the bath-tub, or +other enclosed fixture, to guard against accidents from overflow or +leakage. They are made of four-pound sheet lead, and are usually turned +up from two to four inches all around. The lead is formed to a bevelled +strip at the sides and end, the size of the pan being that of the +extreme outside of the fixture. There is usually an inch waste +connection to the cellar or kitchen sink. It would be highly improper to +connect a safe with the drain, trapped or otherwise, as its use under +any circumstances will be occasional, and any water that there might be +in the trap would be certain to evaporate, and in that way the safe +waste would be the means of connecting the foulness of the drain with +the house. Therefore, it is right and proper that it should connect with +the sink or the cellar floor. In that way, any discharge therefrom would +be readily noticed. Wastes are frequently placed under bath-tubs, +generally under wash-stands, when they are enclosed, but rarely or never +under a modern water-closet. They are frequently dispensed with +entirely. + + +WATER-CLOSETS. + +Fig. 7, page 68, indicates, in perspective and in section, the more +common form of water-closet now in use, than which nothing-better has +been devised. The details of the valve connection and general form of +the closet itself, and the means of flushing it, are various, but the +general principle is the same. It is nothing more or less than a large +bowl having an "S" trap connection with soil pipe. The bowl and trap are +of white porcelain ware, in one piece. The form, as here shown, is a +washout closet, and is the one in most general use. Usually a connection +with public water service is provided from a tank above. Trap vent, as +shown, is connected with the outer air above the roof. The seat of the +closet is usually supported from the wall at the back, and rests on the +body of the porcelain, on rubber buffers, which prevent the liability of +breakage or noise, if it falls. Under any circumstances, water-closets +should never be enclosed. + + +WASH-STANDS. + +It has been said that wash-stands are the most dangerous fixtures that +go into a house, and for that reason the greatest care should be +observed in their construction. The only material of which the bowl +proper, for use in a dwelling-house, should be made is porcelain. The +usual form is circular, and about fourteen inches in diameter. However, +they are made in various forms. The details of their construction differ +as greatly as those of the other fixtures which have been named. Bowls +are made which have the same "patent" overflow arrangements as the +bath-tub overflows that have been considered and described elsewhere. It +is usual, however, to use a rubber plug and chain. The top and back of +the wash-stand should be of marble. The top should be one and one-eighth +inch thick, counter-sunk, so that the splashed water cannot run from it +to the floor; the back need be only seven-eighths inch thick, and +generally not more than ten inches high. Sometimes it may be less. The +hot and cold water fixtures are nickel-plated; usually they are made +self-closing, to prevent the waste of water. It is necessary that they +should be so where city water is used. It is part of the city +regulations that all connections of this kind be self-closing. +Wash-stands need not be enclosed below. The marble top may be supported +on iron brackets or turned wooden legs of hard wood. Traps and other +drain connections can be neatly arranged so that their appearance is not +in any sense objectionable in the bath-room or other place. The +wash-stand should have one-and-one-half-inch light lead trapped +connection with the drain or soil pipe. + +Generally speaking, it is not necessary for the trap to be ventilated, +unless it so happen that it is some distance from the soil pipe or +drain. The soil pipe, we know, is always ventilated, and if the +wash-stand is situated some distance from it, it should have a direct +communication with the outer air above the roof. + +Sometimes a pitcher-cock is placed on the wash-stand in the bath-room to +enable the drawing of drinking water when the other connections are with +the cistern, it being assumed in this instance that only the water from +public water works is used for drinking purposes. The pitcher-cock is +simply one with a long neck which extends above the bowl, and is +directed into it, the pitcher being placed under it for the purpose of +filling. + + +LAUNDRY FITTINGS. + +The fittings for a simple laundry apparatus, that would go into a house +of very moderate cost, have been described elsewhere. In this instance +we will consider only the more elaborate arrangements which have to do +with set tubs. They may be of porcelain or plain cast-iron, of cast-iron +porcelain-lined, or of brown glazed earthenware. The porcelain is of the +same general character as that mentioned for the bath-tub and sinks, and +is an expensive and very elegant material. The porcelain-lined iron tubs +are in more general use, for the reason that they are less expensive +than those of all porcelain. Brown earthenware tubs are coming to be +favorably considered, and are in every way satisfactory. Tubs made of +wood, slate, or other material, where they are in several pieces, are +objectionable. Those mentioned above are one-piece tubs, and are +generally set three together. The porcelain or brown earthenware tubs +usually have wooden rims. Sometimes these tubs are provided with covers, +though it is usual and preferable that covers be not used, and that the +water be supplied from above. The hot and cold water fixtures are +nickel-plated compression cocks, which connect with hot and cold water +sources. Generally speaking, it is best, where set tubs are used, that +an independent apparatus for heating water be provided; that is, a +laundry water heater, of which there are many different kinds, and which +are constructed on the same general principle as the arrangement +mentioned in connection with the kitchen and other water-heating +apparatus. It is entirely possible, however, to make connections with +the water-heating apparatus of the kitchen. + +The drain connections are of one-and-one-half-inch light lead, and are +independently trapped for each tub. They lead to the main drain, +connecting with sewer or vault. + + +OUTSIDE DRAINS. + +Drains outside of the house should be of vitrified or glazed earthenware +pipe, laid below the action of frost, with proper slant. They should be +well bedded and have smoothly cemented joints. The slant need be very +slight, eighteen inches in eighty feet or less may be used. It is +especially desirable that the joints be thoroughly cemented, and that +they be smooth on the inside, so that the foul matter passing through +the interior will not lodge against any projections. The surface or ends +of the pipe should never be clipped or cut for connections; "Y's" or +"T's" are used for all connections with other drains. Drain pipes from a +dwelling-house are usually five or six inches in diameter. It is quite +as important that they be not too large as that they be large enough. +Where a pipe is too large, there is not enough water in the bottom to +keep it clean. The illustration here given will make clear this point. A +six and eight inch drain is shown with the same quantity of water in +each. It is common in cases of drain connection with a vault that no +trap in the drain or soil pipe itself be used. Where sewer connection is +made, a vitrified trap of the same size as the drain is used; and it is +provided with a trap vent connection with the outer air by means of +vitrified vent and grate opening at the top. + +[Illustration: Fig. 38] + +Storm-water connections may be made with the main sewer, but it is best +that they be made between the house and the trap of main drain. In this +way there is no danger of the sewer having connection with the down +spouts in the event of the evaporation of the water in the trap of the +storm-water connection. The modern plan of city sewer systems is to have +independent service for storm water and house drain connections. + + +GREASE SINKS. + +The grease sink is lined with brick, and is usually of four or five +barrels capacity. It is cemented the same as the cistern, is generally +twenty or twenty-five feet away from the house, and has a four-inch +vitrified drain connection with the waste from the kitchen sink or other +sink in which greasy water may be deposited. The sink itself has a +siphon connection with the main drain or vault, and, being provided with +an iron top, the deposit of grease or other material may be removed if +necessary. In some instances a sink of this kind is required to be used +to collect all solid matter before the drainage connection passes from +the property. + + * * * * * + +The "S" trap only has been distinctly mentioned. There are hundreds of +others, all constructed upon the same general principle. Some are +provided with mechanical means of closing the opening leading to the +source of supply, and, in addition to this, they are provided with a +seal of water depending upon some form or condition of the "S" trap. +This principle is invariable in the construction of traps. No trap +should be used unless provided with a trap screw of the same size as the +drain itself, which will admit of its being opened when necessary. It is +not uncommon that rings or other jewelry get into the waste of +wash-stand or bath-tub; they may be recovered by taking out the trap +screw. Again, should the trap become fouled or clogged, the matter may +be removed in the same way. + + +NICKEL FITTINGS. + +For the kitchen sink, nickel fittings are preferable to brass, because +they are more easily cleaned. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + + COST OF A HOUSE.--SCHEDULES OF COSTS.--WHAT GOES INTO A + HOUSE.--SCHEDULE "B."--COST DETAILS. + + +What makes the cost of a house? Everything that has been placed on the +lot when the structure is completed. Below is a form or schedule, with +blanks, filled out by an architect for a gentleman for whom he made +plans. + + JOHN SMITH,--As I understand your wants, would estimate the cost of + improvements contemplated on No. Delaware Street as follows:-- + + + Building--1st floor finish hard wood, 2d floor finish poplar, $3,000 + Privy and Vault $35 + Cistern and Connections 50 + Well, Connections, and Pump 35 + Walks, 40 yards at 70 cents 28 + Fences--Tight board, 160 feet at 25 cents, Picket none, 40 + Illuminating-Gas Pipe 30 + Plumbing--Cellar sink 1, Kitchen sink 1, Bath-tub 1, + W. C. 1, W. S. 1, St. Washer 1, City and Cistern Water, 275 + Natural-Gas Pipe, without burners or burner fittings 35 + Gas Fixtures 50 + Mantels and Grates 3, Average cost $40 120 + Furnace 250 + Plate Glass 50 + Cathedral Glass 25 + Electric Work--Door bell 2, Kitchen bell 1 25 + ----- + 1,128 + ------ + Without Architect's fee $4,128 + + +Everything that goes into a house should be fully represented to the +owner. Thus the costs may be fixed and the aggregate understood. If this +were universally done, there would be less said about the unreliability +of architects' estimates. If the architect is very careful to make +known to the owner the quality of everything that he is to have, and, as +well, the general quantities and costs, he is doing his full duty in +this matter. Anything less than this is a neglect of duty. Furthermore, +this should be made a matter of record, so that if changes are made and +the cost altered, a basis for comparison may be at hand. It is the +practice of the writer to use a specification which describes everything +which may be a part of a brick or a frame house, and to stamp out the +parts omitted. For example, in that specification there are specified +brick and cemented floors for cellar. It is the custom to stamp the word +"No" before the words brick floor, so that it reads "No brick floor in +cellar." In other cases it may be "No lattice work in side yard," etc. +Thus the owner of the house knows not only what he is to get, but what +he is not to get, and the exact quality of that which is included as +well as that which is omitted. He has positive and negative information +with respect to his house. This form of specification has been in use +three years, and has been uniformly satisfactory. + +The schedule filled out for Mr. Smith is a printed form, which is handed +to the owner as soon as the building cost is determined. It is in +addition to the detailed specification. In the schedule the cost of the +building is put down at three thousand dollars. The appurtenances are +the items mentioned below the line which gives the price of the building +proper, and in this instance are estimated at $1,128. The house estimate +is $3,000. This makes a total cost of $4,128. The house was a +well-finished building of nine rooms. The parlor and hall were finished +in quartered oak, the dining and sitting rooms in quartered sycamore, +the rear hall in quartered oak, the china-room in sycamore, kitchen and +pantry in plain oak. It would have cost about $125 less to finish the +first floor of this house in soft wood. It is not possible to give +general statements as to the difference in cost of finishing between +hard and soft wood. Twenty to thirty-five dollars a room is generally +ample, though the difference may be greater. + +The privy building was figured at twenty dollars, and the vault at a +dollar a foot. The cistern and connections at fifty cents a barrel. Thus +a hundred-barrel cistern costs fifty dollars. The well pump, which was +located in the kitchen, was a cheap form of horizontal force-pump +fastened to the floor, with the handle coming up near the kitchen table. +It supplied water to the kitchen sink. It, as well as the cistern pump, +was included in the plumbing contract. The walks were ordinary brick +walks laid in sand. Tight-board fence was figured, as shown, at +twenty-five cents a lineal foot. The illuminating-gas pipe was figured +at a little less than the price given on schedule "B," but was ample. +The same may be said of the plumbing work. The gas fixtures were neat +brass goods that looked plain in the store surrounded with very +elaborate ones, but were entirely satisfactory when in the house. The +mantels and grates, as may be judged by their cost, were not very +elaborate. However, they were of wood, the same style and finish as the +room. There were bevelled-glass mirrors above the shelves. The hearth +and facing were of unglazed tile, the grate-frame of brass, the grate +itself club pattern, and altogether it was simple but pleasing. The +furnace was of wrought-iron, riveted joints, with galvanized iron +jacket. It would have cost about fifteen or twenty dollars more to set +it in brick. This price included registers, pipes in the wall, and all +connections. If the building had cost a thousand dollars more, or even +two thousand, the appurtenances need not have cost more than a hundred +to a hundred and fifty dollars additional. There would probably have +been a little more gas pipe, a few more fixtures, and the furnace would +have been somewhat more expensive; or, if the house had cost five +hundred dollars less, the appurtenances would not have represented in +all more than seventy-five dollars difference, providing the general +requirements had been the same. + +The following schedule was prepared for Mr. Brown. His was an eight-room +house; smaller, less elaborate, but just as well built, as the one for +Mr. Smith. He did not have quite as much plumbing, and reduced the other +appurtenances somewhat. Altogether they represent $801. If his had been +a fifteen-hundred-dollar house, and the same general conditions had been +met, the appurtenances would not have cost any less. Likewise, if it had +been a two-thousand-dollar house, they would have cost no more. +Additions to size of rooms or a more elaborate finish would not have +appreciably affected the cost of the appurtenances. It is well to bear +this in mind when building. + + WILLIAM BROWN,--As I understand your wants, would estimate the cost + of improvements contemplated on No. Alabama Street as follows:-- + + Building--1st floor finish hard wood, 2d floor + finish poplar, $1,700 + Privy and Vault $40 + Cistern and Connections 40 + No Well, Connections, and Pump + Walks, 30 yards at 70 cents 21 + Fences--Tight board, 100 at 25 cents, Picket none 25 + Illuminating-Gas Pipe 25 + Plumbing--Cellar sink none, Kitchen sink 1, Bath-tub 1, + W. C. 1, W. S. 1, St. Washer 1, City Water 200 + Natural-Gas Pipe, without burners or burner fittings 30 + Gas Fixtures 35 + Mantels and Grates 3, Average cost $40 120 + Furnace 240 + Plate Glass 20 + Cathedral Glass none + Electric Work--Door bell 1, Kitchen bell none 5 + ____ + 801 + ______ + Without Architect's fee $2,501 + +The two examples given show the method of filling out a cost schedule, +which, by the way, is seldom presented in this form to the owner of a +house by his architect. It now remains to indicate, in general terms, +the basis of values as before given. It is not intended to form this +book on the "every-man-his-own-architect" principle, but it is +constructed on the idea that every one should know as much about the +business in hand as is possible, before calling for other assistance. +For this purpose certain prices are given which are a little in advance +of those charged in the section of country to which they apply. This is +done so that the errors, if any, may be on the side of safety. Generally +speaking, there will not be any great difference in the cost of the +appurtenances mentioned. It is the cost of the building proper which +varies. The cost of the buildings illustrated is given, unless otherwise +mentioned, on a basis of hard-wood finish for the first floor excepting +kitchen, and soft wood above, all finished in oil. + +Below is the schedule "B," so frequently referred to in the description +of house plans. + + SCHEDULE "B." + + Building.--First floor finish hard wood; second floor, soft wood. + + Where estimates are given in the book on the basis of schedule "B," + they include only the building, as mentioned above, and do not + include the following items:-- + + Privy building, $20; vault, $1 per foot for each foot in depth. + + Cistern and connections, $0.50 per barrel; pump, $5 to $35; well, + $0.75 per lineal foot; pump and connections, $5 to $35. (Force pump + included in plumbing contract.) + + Walks of brick, $0.70 per square yard; cement, $1.80 per square + yard. + + Fences: tight-board, $0.25 per lineal foot; picket, $0.50 per + lineal foot, painted three coats. + + Illuminating-gas pipe, $1.50 to $2 per connection. + + Plumbing--Cellar sink, plain iron set $10 + Hot-water boiler and back " 25 + Kitchen sink, city and hot and cold cistern water " 30 + Force pump and tank " 50 + Bath-tub, 14 oz. copper " 30 + Wash-stand " 25 + Water-closet "washout" " 40 + Street-washer " 12 + City service, $0.35 a foot, lineal, laid. + Drain connection, $0.30 a foot, lineal, laid. + [For other piping and connections add twenty per cent of above + aggregate.] + + Natural-gas piping, without burners, $4 a fire. + + Gas fixtures, about $1.50 per burner. + + Mantels and grates, average cost, $40. + + Furnace, for all pipes and connections, nine registers, $240; add + $16 for each additional second-story connection; $8 for first-story + connection. + + Plate glass, $0.50 to $0.75 a square foot, according to size. + + Cathedral glass, plain, $0.30 a foot; leaded, from $1 upward. + + Electric work--door bells, each $6; kitchen bell, $6. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + + VARYING BUILDING VALUES.--COST OF APPURTENANCES.--PRICES OF LABOR + AND MATERIAL ON WHICH ESTIMATES ARE BASED. + + +The cost of building varies in different sections. At the end of this +chapter will be found a list of prices upon which the building estimates +of this book are based. + +The plumbing schedule is formed so that one may see about what the +different items of a completed plumbing outfit cost. Figuring sixty feet +of service and seventy feet of drain, the plumbing outfit would cost, as +indicated, $328. It has been furnished for less. The figures given in +connection with plumbing work are not necessarily accurate. They are +approximately so in detail. As no two plumbers or other mechanics will +figure exactly the same on the same fixtures, or the same material and +labor, it is not to be expected that an architect could form a +thumb-rule schedule which would be satisfactory to plumbers and all +others. In the class of work contemplated in this specification, the +tendency of these figures is in the right direction. They are as nearly +correct as general statements can be. It is known that a single bath-tub +can be fitted up to cost more than the entire plumbing outfit here +mentioned. It would afford no more conveniences to the occupant of the +house, and would be no safer from a sanitary standpoint; and it probably +would require more labor to care for than the one contemplated. The +estimates are on the basis of a specification which would meet with the +approval of the public sanitary inspectors in any of the large cities. + +Where there is a material reduction in the number of fixtures and +connections from the list given, the percentage for other piping and +connections will have to be increased. + +There are various ways of reducing the cost of the outfit. The best way +is to have less of it; for instance, only city water may be used, or, +possibly, only the cistern water. The completed plumbing outfit +mentioned in schedule "B," with the exception of cistern-water +connections, including hot and cold city water for sink, wash-stand, and +bath-tub, has been put in, in plan No. 30, for $245. + +The natural-gas-piping figure, like the others, is liable to vary. +Piping for five fires has been put in for $20, for $15, and for $30. The +burners, the burner valves and mixers, usually cost from four to five +dollars a fire. + +The gas-fixture schedule is priced by the burner, not by the connection. +Each burner of each fixture is counted. Of course one may get a single +fixture which will cost as much as the above rule would figure on a +whole outfit, but that is unusual in moderate-cost houses. Some of the +second-story brackets will cost from ninety cents to one dollar and a +quarter apiece. This will increase the price of burner margin for the +first floor, and allow more elaborate fixtures. + +The mantels are priced to include grate, hearth, facings, and everything +that may go there, excepting fender and blower. One may get a mantel for +$25 or $30, or he may use a grate setting without a mantel, or may go as +far into the hundreds as his inclination and means will lead him. Very +expensive mantels in moderate-cost houses are not in good taste. A $100 +or $150 mantel in a room all of the other wood-work of which did not +cost over half that sum, is in exceedingly bad form. The mantel appears +like a monument; everything around it is insignificant. In buying +mantels from stock in mantel stores, the cheaper ones are generally the +best designed from an artistic standpoint. + +The furnace price is necessarily arbitrary. The owner of a house will be +told that the price here given is too high and too low. A +moderate-sized, two-story, eight-room house, which, counting the +bath-room, would have nine connections, could be provided with a furnace +of wrought-iron or steel, riveted joints, double galvanized-iron jacket, +for $240. The same furnace brick-set will cost from fifteen to twenty +dollars more. The owner of such a house can get a cheaper furnace, or he +can get one which will be much more expensive. Oftentimes when an +architect estimates the price of a furnace to the owner, the latter will +respond with the statement that he has been offered a furnace complete +for ninety dollars. Upon investigation it generally proves that the +furnace is in some one's store ready for delivery; that it will cost +extra to set it, and for all connections, fittings, registers, etc.; and +that the furnace itself is of such a kind that ninety dollars is a high +price for it. There is no doubt that the statement as to furnace prices +will meet with general disapproval from manufacturers. Many will say +that the prices given are ridiculously high, and others, ridiculously +low. Other general statements as to heating apparatus may be found in a +chapter given to that subject in that section of the book devoted to the +Journey through the House. + +The estimates given on plate and cathedral glass are about as +unsatisfactory as anything can be. They merely give the owner a general +idea as to what to expect. + +Electric-work prices are approximately correct for localities where the +facilities for doing this kind of work are at hand. Door and table bell +outfits are now sold and arranged ready to be set up. The methods of +their adjustment are so simple that any one who can read can put them +in. + +The general statement may be made that these prices are approximately +correct in all the larger markets; and that in cases where the building +is far removed therefrom, there must necessarily be additions for travel +of workmen, and other incidental expenses in the transportation of +material and labor. + +The following is the list of prices of material and labor upon which the +building estimates are based:-- + + Excavating, $0.25 a yard. + + Brick in the wall, $9 per M. + + Mason work, $5.50 a yard, laid up. + + Cement floors, $0.70 a square yard. + + Timber, joist, and scantling, less than eighteen feet long, $17 per + M. + + No. 1 common boards, $18 per M. + + Select common pine flooring, count measure, $26 per M. + + Common flooring, count measure, $22.50 per M. + + First quality yellow pine flooring, face measure, $37.50 per M. + + Standard yellow pine flooring, face measure, $30 per M. + + No. 1 poplar flooring, face measure, $28.50 per M. + + No. 2 poplar flooring, face measure, $23.50 per M. + + No. 1 stock boards, $20 per M. + + No. 1 poplar siding or weather-boarding, $18 per M. + + No. 2, $16 per M. + + No. 1 pine siding, $22 per M. + + No. 2, $20 per M. + + Shingles, 16 inches clear butts, best, per M, $3.75. + + Shingles, 16 inches extra, 10 inches clear butts, $3.25. + + Pine lath, per M, $2.50. + + Poplar and pine finishing lumber, $3.75 to $6 per 100 feet. + + Oak or maple flooring, first class, $4 to $6 per 100 feet. + + Oak finishing lumber, $4 to $6 per 100 feet. + +Under certain conditions the above prices are subject to discounts. + + Plastering: three-coat work, plaster-of-Paris finish, $0.25 a yard; + two-coat work, plaster-of-Paris finish, $0.20; gray floated sand + finish, three cents extra on above prices. + + Painting, $0.06 per yard a coat. + + Labor: common labor, $0.15 an hour; bricklayers and masons, $0.35 + to $0.45 an hour; carpenters, $0.20 to $0.30 an hour; tinners, + $0.30 an hour; painters, $0.20 to $0.30 an hour; plumber and + helper, $0.50 an hour. + +The above labor prices are those paid by the contractors. Rarely, +however, are the maximum prices reached. + +There are few subjects on which ideas vary so greatly as values. This +fact may be made apparent when we call to mind that bids on a house let +for $3,000 frequently range $1,000 higher than this figure. + + + + +BUSINESS POINTS IN BUILDING. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + + LOW-COST HOUSES.--METHODS OF MAKING CONTRACTS.--ARCHITECTS' + ESTIMATES.--BUILDING BY THE DAY.--THE SAFEST PLAN.--GUARDING + AGAINST LIENS. + + +A low-cost, well-built house is sought by all. The cost of a house is +largely a question of business management,--one of knowledge. Before +considering the details of contracting for the building of a house, +there are a few general points which should be mentioned. First, it +never pays to make a contract to have a house built for less than it is +worth. In order to get a good house, it is necessary that there be a +margin of profit for the builder. Second, a good house from a +constructive standpoint can only be built by competent mechanics. One +may contract for the building of a house for less than it is worth with +parties who are incapable of doing first-class work, and require a bond +to secure the faithful execution of the contract. A contract or a bond +cannot make a man do good work if he does not know how to do it. It will +not save anxiety or trouble. It may indemnify against actual damages, +but never against trouble and vexation; nor can it compensate for poor +work done in building a home. This matter is mentioned because it is the +fault of a great many people, who are inexperienced in building, that +they are disposed to have work done for less than it is worth. It does +not pay. + +It may be remembered, however, that one builder may be able to build for +less than another. One may have more energy, tact, or general ability +than another. He may have better credit; may be a better buyer. The +result is larger accomplishments. + +In speaking of low-cost houses or cheap buildings, it is not to be +understood that they are cheap or low-cost in the sense of being common +or frail. I mean first-class houses at a relatively low cost; low cost +in a business sense, the best for the money. + +We often hear the statement made that one can tell nothing definite +about the cost of a house until it is finished. One can come as near +knowing what a house will cost, as he can to knowing what he wants +before he begins. One can get prices on what he has in mind, if his +ideas be expressed. He cannot get prices on the unknown. The expression +of one's ideas of a house is through plans and specifications. The fact +that architects' estimates are often too low is because the owner is not +sufficiently informed in house-building to know what he wants until +after the estimate is made. The owner usually expresses a price that he +wishes to pay for his house before he expresses his idea. It may be well +to illustrate this. + +One who wishes to build goes to an architect with some sketches or +prints, which he has been collecting, lays them down and says,-- + +"We're thinking about building a house. We want something like this. +Here are four rooms and a hall downstairs, and four rooms and a +bath-room above. We want to build of wood, and wish to have the house +warm and substantial. Can it be built for three thousand dollars? It's +all we have to put in it." + +"Oh, yes," says the architect; and so it can. A good, comfortable, +substantial house, from the plans indicated, can be built for three +thousand dollars. The architect knows this, and says that the work can +be done for that price. He is ordered to make the plans. In a day or two +the owner comes into his office and says,-- + +"My wife and I were talking over the house last night, and concluded +that we would like to have a bay window from the dining-room,--a place +where we can sit in summer, and put flowers in the winter." + +"All right." + +"And she told me to ask where you were going to put a wash-stand +downstairs. You know we will want some kind of a wash-room." + +"I hadn't thought anything about that," said the architect. "Nothing was +said about it. I supposed that in a house of this size the bath-room was +the only place where you would put a stationary wash-stand." + +"We have to have a place downstairs. We can't go upstairs every time we +want to wash our hands." + +Another two or three days pass. The owner visits the architect again. It +is the old story. He and his wife have been studying the house question +in earnest. They are educating themselves in house-building. The more +they think about it, the more they want, all of which is perfectly +natural and right. It is in the natural order of things. It is the way +the world moves. + +"We were talking about the house, and have about concluded that we will +finish two front rooms upstairs in oak. What do you think it will cost?" + +"If you use oak for all the wood-work, it will cost between forty and +fifty dollars." + +"That isn't much. We'll have it." + +And so the house grows as the owners grow, a little every day. The next +day it is a little more plate glass at a cost of fifteen dollars. Again, +it is bronze hardware at an extra cost of twenty dollars. Then it is +bevelled-glass doors in the china-closet, plastering in the attic, a +tile vestibule, a porch off from the dining-room, and so on. + +The three thousand dollars is exceeded, though probably by something +less than the amount represented by the growth of the owner's ideas. The +architect had made a certain allowance for this development, though it +was not possible for him entirely to foresee it. Of those who build, the +ones who take the greatest interest in the house, those who think the +most about it, are usually the ones who exceed their original +calculations by the largest amount. + +In building, it is important that the architect and the owner thoroughly +understand each other before contracts with the builders are signed. The +wants of the owner must be thoroughly understood, and carefully and +accurately set forth. From the plans and specifications estimates for +all parts of the work should be received, and the cost of everything +known, before obligations are created. The process of making the plans +and specifications, and taking the bids, is educational in its tendency. +It brings to the owner's attention nearly everything that he may want. +Frequently he will find that the first estimates which he gets are +higher than the amount he cared to expend. This is on account of his +growth. He can frequently reduce the cost without positive injury to the +original scheme. + +We will consider how contracts are usually made. Sometimes it is by +making plans and specifications for the entire house, and then asking +for bids on the building as a whole. A general contractor makes his +figures on the various parts of the work, then adds them together and +makes a lump bid. If he is awarded the contract under such a system, he +does part of the work himself and sublets the rest. Possibly he may be a +carpenter; then he sublets the brick work, plastering, tinning, +painting, etc., and, if possible, he makes a profit on all of these +sub-contracts. It does not always happen that he makes figures on these +various divisions of the contract himself when forming his original bid. +He gets sub-bids from various mechanics and adds these to his own in +making up a lump bid. It is known that there is a very wide range of +difference between bids which come in this way. In a house to cost three +thousand dollars the bids not infrequently vary twenty-five to thirty +per cent. The highest bid may be over four thousand dollars. + +Another way of contracting is for the architect or owner, as the case +may be, to take bids on the various details of excavating, stone work, +brick work, carpenter work, painting, plastering, galvanized iron and +tin, glass, plumbing, gas-fitting, etc.; in fact, to detail the work as +much as possible and receive detailed bids. If the work costs too much, +if the bids run too high, one can locate the excess. + +At times one can get a cheaper house by pursuing this plan. Another plan +of building is by the day. Usually this means to employ carpenters and a +foreman, take bids on the material that the carpenters use, and to +sublet the mason work, excavating, painting, plastering, tin-work, +plumbing, etc. Sometimes the mason-work is also done by the day. + +Each plan has its merits. The first mentioned, of letting most of the +work in one contract, is the one in most general use. It is common +practice in this connection to let excavating, mason work, carpenter +work, plastering, tinning, painting, and hardware in one general +contract; then the mantels, gas-fixtures, furnace, plumbing, electric +work, and ornamental glass work are let in separate contracts. It is +difficult for one to specify gas-fixtures, mantels, and similar +fittings, excepting by price. There is no satisfaction in this, for the +reason that the owner or his architect may be able to make quite as good +or even a better bargain than the contractor. Then there is no +opportunity for the builder to arrange for a relatively high price with +those who furnish this class of goods. It is fair for the builder to +assume that he is entitled to a certain percentage for selecting and +negotiating for such articles. The owner may save this for himself by +making his own purchases. + +Plumbing work is frequently separated from the general contract in order +that the owner may exercise his discretion as to the workmen employed to +do this important work. In such circumstances it is not altogether a +matter of cost. It is of the utmost importance that the best of workmen +be employed. + +The articles which cannot be directly specified should be secured +outside the general contract. Altogether, the plan of letting most of +the work in one contract, as outlined, is the best and safest for those +to pursue who are not thoroughly familiar with building operations. + +The plan of subletting the separate contracts to the lowest bidders is +not to be recommended to those without large experience. The difficulty +in locating responsibility for delays is great. There is apt to be +contention, annoyance, and sometimes loss, by this confusion. The plan +of building by the day is more satisfactory for experienced builders +than the one just mentioned, but it has the disadvantage of not fully +representing to the owner before it is finished the cost of his +structure. + +In nearly every city or town there are a number of good builders, not +well supplied with means, who will take a contract for building a house, +work on it themselves until it is finished, and then take another, +never having more than one or two houses on hand. One can frequently get +good work from such builders at a much less cost than from large +contractors. The larger contractors employ a foreman at about the same +price a day that the small contractors expect to get per day out of +their entire contract. Then, in addition to that, they receive their +profits of ten, fifteen, or other per cent for their time and attention. +Any one building with the help of the smaller contractors must be very +careful, or he will get into trouble on account of the small margin of +profit. + +To recur to the method first mentioned. It is well that suggestions be +made as to the course to be pursued in receiving bids on work, as +classified in that suggestion. In the first place, there should be +accurate plans and specifications made by an architect capable of doing +that kind of work. Everything should be fully represented to the owner +in both a positive and negative way; that is, not only as to what is to +go into his house, but as to what is not to go into it. As soon as the +architect or those in charge of the work begin to take bids, the owner +should be provided with a complete copy of the plans and specifications, +in order that he may be fully conversant with what is to be done. It was +said that everything should be represented to the owner in both a +positive and negative way. Not only should it be stated to him that the +first floor of the house is to be plastered, but, if such is the case, +that the cellar is not to be plastered. If the cellar floor is not to be +cemented, it should be stated definitely to him in that way before +beginning to take bids. If fly-screens are not included in the building +contract, it should be so stated. Everything should be fully +represented, and a record thereof placed before the owner, so that there +can be not the slightest opportunity for misunderstanding or +disagreement. Thus, if everything is presented to the owner, he will +know what he is to have and what he is not to have, and his business +will be done for him in a way satisfactory to all. When this is done, it +is time to begin taking bids. + +In doing this there should be no favoritism. The builder should be +allowed to take a copy of the plans and specifications with him to his +office or place of business, and keep them a day or more, in order to +take off his quantities and become thoroughly conversant with everything +connected with them. Then he can return the plans, and, while others are +doing the same thing, he can compile his figures. Generally it takes +about a day for each contractor to get through with a set of plans; that +is, if five bids are received, it generally takes five or six days, +assuming that only one set of plans is in use. No one should be asked to +figure on a building unless the owner is willing to award him the +contract, providing his bid is the lowest. Anything else is unfair. When +all the bids have been received in sealed envelopes, the architect and +owner may open them. After selecting the lowest, they may add to that +figure the cost of everything not included in that proposition,--the +furnace, mantels, gas fixtures, ornamental glass, and anything else that +has not been included in the bid. This may be readily done, if the +architect provide a schedule, similar to schedule "B," of everything +which may go into the house. + +In the matter of closing the contract, only general statements can be +made. Where an architect is employed, he will give proper directions; +but, as many houses are built without such assistance, it is proper to +make general statements which will assist in this work. There are forms +of building-contracts, or articles of agreement, which may be secured +from various regular sources. It is proper to fix the time of the +completion of the work, which will vary in different parts of the +country according to general customs. A house to cost from fifteen +hundred to four thousand dollars may be very easily finished, under +favorable circumstances, in ninety to a hundred days. Such houses can be +built in less time, but it is best to give the builder at least three +months. He will do better work in that time than in less. For the higher +figure named, or for those which approach it, it may be better to allow +even a little more rather than less time. As a price for liquidated +damages in event of delay in completion, the rental value of the +property is the usual sum specified. + +There are various plans pursued in the matter of payments. Where there +is an architect or superintendent, he usually issues orders on the owner +for payment of material and labor furnished by a contractor less ten or +fifteen per cent. Sometimes it is stated that two-fifths of the money +will be paid when the building is enclosed and under roof; one-fifth +additional when building is plastered, painted on exterior, all exterior +appurtenances finished, the floors laid, and the house ready for other +interior wood-work; and the remaining two-fifths when all work is +finished. At times this apportionment is correct, and at other times +not. However, it is a very good general rule. It is a good plan to add +the ten per cent discount to it when possible. Sometimes an indemnifying +bond is required of the contractor in order to secure the owner the +proper execution of the contract. Otherwise the ten or fifteen per cent +discount is relied upon to secure that end. + +The lien laws in the various States make it very important that the +owner, or his agent in the matter of building, should be very careful to +see that the contractor pays all his bills, or secures releases from +those who have furnished material and labor on account of the building +contract, before money is paid by owner. + +The law is different in various States, and renders the owner liable, +under varying conditions, for material and labor furnished to contractor +by others as employees or sub-contractor, even though payment has been +made by owner to general contractor. Where a bond is not required, it is +proper for the owner or his agent to exact releases in proper form from +those who have furnished material and labor to contractor. The following +form is in use by the writer:-- + + Work located + + The undersigned, in consideration of the personal credit extended + by to , Contractor, hereby consent that may pay to said contractor + any sum that may be now owing to, or may hereafter become due, said + contractor, on account of contract for the construction of the + above works, and we hereby waive all rights to Mechanics' Liens or + other claims which we have, or may have, against said property, or + owner, on account of labor or material furnished by us. + + INDIANAPOLIS, 1889. + +It is the custom to furnish the builder with a number of copies of the +above release before it is time for him to secure an order on the owner +for money. As the architect is in a position to know from whom material +or labor is secured, it is possible for him to know if the list of +releases is complete. If not complete, the party refusing to give a +release is required to make statement as to the amount of the +indebtedness for material and labor furnished on the contract. The +general contractor is charged with the amount represented as being due +until the matter is fully adjusted. As an additional safeguard, the +contractor is at times required to fill out and make affidavit to the +following:-- + + INDIANAPOLIS, ---- 1889. + + The undersigned, for the purpose of securing payment on account of + contract with ----, for the construction of a ---- house, known as + No. ---- on ---- Street, situated on Lot ----, Out-lot ----, ---- + Division to City of Indianapolis, Marion County, State of Indiana, + represents hereby that he has paid for all labor and material of + every kind and nature had and procured therefor, excepting, + however, that he is now owing the following sums to the respective + parties hereinafter named for labor and materials for said + building, and owes therefor no other amounts, to wit:-- + +In this connection it is not possible to consider all of the +ramifications of the lien law. It is important to understand, however, +that it is entirely possible for an owner to have to pay for part of or +all of his house twice, if he is not careful in matters of this kind. + + + + +HOW TO SECURE A HOME. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + + MONTHLY PAYMENTS.--CALCULATIONS ON A LONG-TIME PLAN.--PURCHASE ON A + RENTAL BASIS.--HOW IT MAY BE WORKED OUT. + + +It is a pleasant thought that every one can own a home of his own. With +only a moderate salary, and little or nothing ahead, a thought of this +kind may appear more pleasant than real. It may be affirmed, however, +that, with few exceptions, any one who can pay rent may own his home. +This will require certain sacrifices and at first great economy, but in +the end the result justifies the means. There is no reason why any one +should pay rent. Building associations are instrumental in securing more +homes for people on a long-time plan than any other scheme. In the large +towns, however, houses are sold on various kinds of instalment plans. By +way of illustration, the writer calls to mind a five-room house, +pleasantly situated, which was built about three years ago. This house +is being paid for in instalments of $15 a month. An arrangement of this +kind is good for all concerned. It is an easy way for one to get a home. +It is a good use of money, from a business standpoint, for the one who +has the money to invest. A little demonstration will make this plain. +The lot on which the house was situated was valued at $400. The house, +with walks, well, cistern, and outbuildings, cost $900. Here is a total +investment of $1,300. The purchaser paid $300 in cash. There remained +$1,000 unpaid. The interest on $1,000 for a year at six per cent is $60; +but as the volume of interest is reduced as the payments are made, the +actual interest for the full period averages about one-half of $60, or +$30, per year. To make this point clear, I will state it in another way. +The principal is being reduced as the monthly payments are made. As the +payments advance, the amount of interest necessarily decreases, as there +is not so much principal on which to pay interest. As a matter of fact, +one pays six per cent interest on just one-half of $1,000 for the full +period, or, what amounts to the same thing, the average interest on the +full period is three per cent. Thus, one is paying an average interest +of $30 per year; and, as he pays $15 a month, this would be $180 a year +for principal and interest, $150 of which would apply to the principal. +Thus it is that in six years and eight months the one paying $15 a month +will own the house and lot. I know of other cases where less each month +is paid and a longer time is taken. It would take $10.83[1] per month to +pay for a house of this kind in ten years, with a cash payment of $300. + +It may be said that nobody but a philanthropist would sell property in +this way. In the case of which I speak, the philanthropist is the +manager of the property of a life-insurance company which owns quite a +large amount of unimproved real estate in a Western city, and had a +surplus capital on which it desired to realize. It is a good thing for +the company. By this means it is enabled to dispose of its real estate, +and to use its money profitably. + +This is not strictly architectural, but it may result in showing some +one how to get a home, or others how to make use of idle capital in a +safe and profitable way. It is better for one who has money to invest to +sell houses in this way than it is to rent them. He gets profit on the +sale, and interest on his money, which latter is all he expects under +other circumstances, and disposes of the houses before they need +repairs. This is the view which the capitalist takes of the situation. +By looking into it a little further, he may see that he will not be +troubled by insurance, a vacant house, or repairs. The cash payment is +sufficient to protect the expense of foreclosing the mortgage and the +rental of the house during the time of the redemption. In some instances +the property is leased on the payment of a small cash bonus, with the +stipulation that when one-third, one-fourth, or other agreed portion of +selling price is paid in, that a deed will be given; further payment +being secured by mortgage. + +Building associations are not common in all sections of the country. +Those who are ambitious to build, and are not provided with facilities +which a building association offers, may ask what to do. The answer is +short: form an association. This can be done in a small community. Two +hundred shares paid in, say, by fifty people, would represent a hundred +dollars a week. Any one who wishes to do this can provide himself with +text-books and other information on the subject, which are now published +in different parts of the country. Any bookseller with a good catalogue +can give the necessary information. + +It is sometimes assumed by those unfamiliar with building-association +methods, that they only provide means for building small, low-cost +houses. This is an error. It is not at all unusual that complete houses, +costing from three to five thousand dollars, are built by men of large +means, who secure their money from a building association. One has, say, +forty or fifty thousand dollars profitably occupied in a regular +business; he may not care to disturb this money except to buy a lot with +which to establish a basis of credit with the building association. The +price of the lot may vary from one-fourth to one-half the total +investment. One wishes to borrow three thousand dollars from an +association on the plan which is subsequently fully described. He would +have to take out fifteen shares on a payment of fifty cents a share a +week. This would represent seven dollars and a half weekly, or about +thirty dollars a month. On the plan where the interest and premium are +charged in addition to the regular weekly dues, a little over fifty +dollars a month would be required to keep up the building-association +charges. This would be less than house rent. These calculations are made +assuming that the premium is not more than ten cents and the interest +six per cent. + + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + + BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS.--WHY DIVIDENDS ARE LARGE AND INTEREST + LOW.--BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS AND SAVINGS BANKS.--ASSOCIATION + SECURITIES.--BUILDING-ASSOCIATION METHODS.--DIFFERENT + PLANS.--BORROWING FROM A BUILDING ASSOCIATION.--A + BUILDING-ASSOCIATION REPORT. + + +Building-association methods become more popular as they are better +understood. Savings banks are unnecessary in communities where building +associations are common. The savings bank will give place to the +building association, for the reason that the latter affords greater +security and more profit to the depositors at the same time that it +affords greater conveniences to the borrowers. It is often asked by +those not fully acquainted with building-association methods, "How is it +that the association pays such large dividends, and the borrower such a +small rate of interest? The profit is made by the loaning of money; and, +consequently, the borrower must pay a high price for his money, or the +association does not make large dividends." + +This appears to be a logical argument. However, it is not true that the +borrower pays a high price for his money. The dividends declared are +made from the borrowers, by the rapid compounding of interest and other +sources of profit. Money paid in as interest is immediately re-invested +as a loan, and thus pays interest the next week. The interest on this is +at once put to use, and so on. It is compounded. The premium paid for +money is another source of profit. This comes from the borrower, and +represents a part of the cost of the money to him; but, unless the +premium is excessive, the earnings on his stock counterbalance the +amount paid as premium, so that in the end a borrower does not pay in +excess of the regular rate for his money at the same time that the +stockholder is more largely benefited. + +A building association has only a tithe of the expenses of a bank. The +cost of doing business is very small. An association has a very great +advantage over a bank in its earning capacity in that it does not have +to carry a surplus. All of its money is invested at all times. +Frequently it is receiving interest upon money that is not a part of its +assets. This happens when an application for a loan has been accepted, a +building is under way, and the money not all paid out. + +The percentage of loss in a building association is necessarily smaller +than in the best-conducted bank. Its securities are all first mortgages +on productive real estate, and loans are made to members only, and under +the condition that the immediate repayment of the loan be commenced. The +security begins to improve at once, by the repayment of a part of the +principal each week. It is usual for each member of a family to become +interested in the immediate repayment of a loan. The payment of +building-association dues is constantly in mind; as they become due from +week to week, they cannot be overlooked. The fact that the debt is +growing less, and, as well, the incentive to avoid small fines in case +of failure to make payment, contribute to the value of the security. A +loan on an ordinary basis, secured from a savings bank, insurance or +trust company for a long period, is not thought of in this way. The +usual thought in such a case is to pay the debt in a large sum at a time +in the future. The time of the repayment of an association loan is +always present. The security afforded to building associations is much +better than to savings banks and loan companies, even where the margin +above the amount of loan is less because of this difference in plan of +repayment. Again, the margin of security from the first is always +sufficient to protect a mortgage and the payment of all foreclosure +costs and charges. Furthermore, the rentals in case of foreclosure are, +or should be, sufficient to pay all dues and other fixed charges. This +will prevent loss, and in the end pay for the property. + +Another element of safety in building associations is the small risk of +loss from the duplicity of the officers. This risk is unusually light, +for the reason that in a well-managed building association there is +little in sight to lose. The money is usually all invested. Any small +amount in the hands of the officers is there for only a short time. +There are demands in all well-managed building associations for all the +money in hand. While this is true, it is always required that the +officers who handle the association money give bond for a much larger +sum than it is possible for them ever to have in charge. This makes the +loss, if any, readily collectible. + +It may be well to illustrate building-association methods, and thus call +attention intelligently to the points of superiority which one plan may +have over another. + +The idea which first gave rise to associations is that of enabling +persons belonging to a class whose earnings are small, to place +themselves in a position where the process of gradual accumulation is, +in a certain sense, compulsory. The method of operation is simple enough +when it is understood. Say that a number of stockholders agree to form +an association with a thousand shares, each share to represent $200. +This would make a full capital stock of $200,000 when all paid in. The +various individuals forming the association subscribe for as many shares +as they feel competent to pay upon, it being agreed that for each share +of stock subscribed, fifty cents per week shall be paid until the +sum-total of the payments shall aggregate $200; at the end of which time +a division shall be made according to the original subscription and +subsequent payment. It is clear that if all are prompt in their +payments, the treasury will be ready for distribution at the end of four +hundred weeks. The period of four hundred weeks will, however, be +shortened if all the money paid in is at once invested at interest upon +safe securities, with the addition of interests compounded weekly, as is +the case with these associations. For instance, it may appear that at +the end of three hundred and twelve weeks, with a payment of fifty cents +a week, and the accrued earnings that are credited to the shares, they +are worth $200, the amount fixed for the value of the stock when it is +paid up. At such a time the depositing members withdraw their funds, and +those who are borrowers pay off their obligations to the association +with stock, and the mortgages are released. + +Money in building associations is generally sold to the highest bidder; +that is, those who want to borrow bid a premium for the money. For +instance, a sale of money is advertised. Bids are then received on the +money to be loaned, and it is given to the highest bidder after the +security has been approved. Suppose one wishes to borrow a thousand +dollars. If each paid-up share is to represent two hundred dollars, five +shares must be taken out to represent the payment of principal on a +thousand-dollar loan. It may appear that the premium bid was ten cents +on each share. This means that the borrower must pay ten cents premium +each week, on each share, during the course of the loan, or until the +principal is paid out. Thus he would pay fifty cents a week as +principal, and ten cents a week as premium, and the interest on two +hundred dollars at six per cent, which would be twenty-four cents a +week. Thus he would pay eighty-four cents a week on each share; or on +five shares, four dollars and twenty cents a week. This would pay out in +about five years, depending upon the average rate of premium, the cost +of doing business, and other conditions which may be readily understood. +When the principal paid in, together with the accrued earnings, +represents two hundred dollars, the obligation to the building +association is released. + +There are various plans of starting and arranging building and savings +associations, which differ one from another only in matters of detail. +The price of the share may be two, three, or four hundred dollars, or +any other sum. The amounts paid in a week vary from ten cents to any +larger sum. In the past, most associations have been started on the +series plan, which is defined as follows by Henry S. Rosenthal of +Cincinnati in his "Manual for Building Associations:"-- + + "In an association, organized on the terminating plan, all the + stock is issued as of one date. A terminating association is + organized on the presumption that all the stock will be subscribed + for at the open meetings. This, however, is seldom done. The + consequence is, that shares sold after the first meetings must be + sold at such prices as to make them equal in value to those already + issued. To do this a sum must be charged equal to the amount + already paid in in instalments by the subscribers to the original + shares. If the regular dues on shares should be one dollar per + week, a person subscribing for a share after the association has + been running ten weeks must pay ten dollars for the share. In like + manner, if the association has been running for a longer period, he + must pay an additional dollar for each additional week. Moreover, + if he does not subscribe until after the profits have been + declared, he must pay such an additional amount on his share as + will correspond to the earnings of the original shares up to that + time. The same rule holds through the entire existence of the + association, each year making it more difficult to enter. After an + association, organized on this plan, has run for a time, it is + impossible for many persons, who would gladly become members, to + raise a sufficient sum of money to pay up the back instalments, the + initiation fees, the accrued profits, and other incidental + expenses. In its practical workings, therefore, an association + organized on this plan is not well adapted to meet the conditions + of that particular class of persons who most need such an + organization, and are most likely to be benefited by it. + + "In a terminating association all the shares are, of course, at all + times of equal value. Whenever the total amounts of the dues paid + in and of accumulated profits equal the par value of all the + shares, the association terminates and its affairs must be wound + up. Each stockholder who has not borrowed his money in advance + receives the full value of his shares. To those who have secured + their money in advance, their mortgages, cancelled and receipted in + full, are returned. + + +"PERMANENT ASSOCIATION. + + "Building associations were established originally on the + terminating plan. It is obvious that working on this plan they + cannot, in some respects, reach their greatest degree of popularity + and usefulness. On this account there has been a gradual departure + from this plan. The first departure from the terminating plan + consisted in an arrangement for issuing the stock in series instead + of all from the same date. Associations were chartered for a + certain number of years, as before, and with a specified amount of + capital stock. But instead of selling all the stock as of the same + date, it was divided into series; one series being sold as of the + date of the beginning of the first year, the second series as of + the date of the beginning of the second year, and so on until all + the shares were sold. The issuing of a new series does not + necessarily occur annually, but at such periods as are made + necessary or desirable by the business of the association. The + serial issue may be monthly, quarterly, semi-annually, or + otherwise, as the directors may determine. By the time the last + series is issued and the stock is exhausted, the first one or two + or more series of shares, if the business of the association has + been prosperous, have usually reached their full value, and are + paid back and cancelled. Associations conducted on this plan + usually have the right to issue new stock to take the place of + that which is cancelled from time to time, and thus their + perpetuity is insured. A successful association working on this + plan can usually secure the issue of a new charter, and can thus + continue its existence. But there are manifest disadvantages and + risks under which an association operating on this plan must labor. + + "Another plan of operation has been inaugurated which has proved + very popular, and which is being generally adopted by the + associations in the different States. Associations are granted + perpetual charters, the amount of the capital stock being fixed at + a certain sum. They are allowed to begin operations as soon as a + certain amount of stock is subscribed. After the association is in + operation, new subscribers are allowed to enter at any time on an + equality with the original subscribers, the stock of each member + dating from the time of his entry. Thus the business of the + association runs along from year to year, until finally all of the + stock is subscribed. After a time the shares first issued begin to + reach their full value. As they thus mature, the owners draw out + their money,--if they have not borrowed it in advance,--and their + shares are cancelled, and their membership ceases. If they have + borrowed their money in advance, their bonds and mortgages are + returned to them receipted in full. If a member, whose stock has + thus matured, has not borrowed his money in advance, and does not + wish to draw it out, a certificate of paid-up stock is issued to + him, and he leaves his money in the association as a matter of + investment. An association operating on this plan may, after a + time, when its original stock has all been subscribed through + application to the incorporating authorities, secure the right to + increase its stock. If, in the course of time, this increased stock + becomes exhausted, another increase may be secured in a like + manner, and so on indefinitely." + +Herewith is given an extract from the yearly report of a successful +savings and loan association on the perpetual plan. It will illustrate +more fully the method and results of this method than could a less +formal description. It may be explained in this connection that in this +society the payments are uniform for depositing and borrowing members; +that is, instead of having the premium and interest added to the weekly +dues, the amount of premium and interest is charged against the weekly +payment of fifty cents. Ten cents is the limit of premium, the officers +and stockholders believing that to be as much as any one should pay. + + +OBJECT. + + THE PLYMOUTH SAVINGS AND LOAN ASSOCIATION, NO. 2, is organized with + two main objects in view:-- + + FIRST.--To furnish a convenient, safe, and profitable method of + investing the savings of working people. + + Members can come in and go out at will. + + Subscriptions can commence at any time without having to pay back + dues or wait for new series. + + Withdrawing members obtain their money without loss (fines + excepted), and are paid as promptly as the finances of the + Association will admit, without having to wait ninety days. In the + history of the Association there have been no delays. + + SECOND.--To furnish persons who wish to borrow for any purpose the + means for doing so at a reasonable rate of interest. In other + words, it is an association composed of borrowers and lenders, and + established for their mutual convenience. It gathers together the + savings of the people, which, scattered and in small sums, could + not be invested to advantage, and loans the money thus obtained on + first mortgage security, and in sums to suit, to those who wish to + build, to pay off mortgages, or for other purposes. + + All members of the Association are, therefore, divided into two + classes:-- + + _First._--Those who desire to use the society as a means of saving + or investing money. These are called _depositing members_. + + _Second._--Those who wish to make use of the organization as a + means of borrowing money. These are called _borrowing members_. + + +MANAGEMENT. + + THE PLYMOUTH SAVINGS AND LOAN ASSOCIATION is a strictly + co-operative or mutual organization. All the shareholders are _pro + rata_ owners of all the assets of the society. Every member is a + partner in the enterprise in proportion to the amount paid in by + him. He is entitled to his share of all the earnings of the + Association, and he must also stand his share of the losses, if + there be any. + + The By-laws contain the rules and regulations under which money is + received and loaned, or otherwise disposed of, and the business of + the society is carried on by a Board of Directors, elected annually + by the members. + + +SHARES AND SHAREHOLDERS. + + The amount of interest which each member has in the Association is + indicated by the number of his shares. + + Shares are $200 each, and no member can hold more than twenty-five + shares. The weekly payment required is fifty cents on each share of + stock. + + When a member joins the Association he indicates the amount of + weekly payment he desires to make by the number of shares for which + he subscribes. He may, however, if he wishes, pay more than his + shares call for, and such over-payments will receive dividends the + same as the regular weekly instalments. + + Each member is supposed to keep up his payments until what he has + paid in, together with the dividends declared thereon, shall amount + to the face value of his shares, at which time he must cease + payments, and either take his money out, or, if the society be + willing, allow it to remain and draw dividends. + + +DIVIDENDS. + + On the 1st of January and July of each year the net earnings of the + Association are divided _pro rata_ among all the members, and the + amount due each member is credited on his pass-book. + + Persons joining the association between January and July must + continue payments until the following January before the dividend + will be credited, and those joining between July and January must + likewise pay until the following July; and if the money be + withdrawn before that time, the dividend will be forfeited. + + The right to dividend also ceases from the date of the notice to + withdraw the stock. + + When dividends are credited on the pass-books they are just like + money paid, and are themselves entitled to draw dividends the same + as cash payments. Thus it will be seen that all dividends compound + semi-annually. + + The following table will show how long it takes to pay up a share + to face value by paying the regular dues only, supposing the + society to earn six per cent dividends per annum.[1] It also shows + the value of each share at the close of each year:-- + + First year Dues $26 00 + " Dividends 78 $26 78 + ------ ------ + Value at close of first year $26 78 + + Second year Dues $26 00 + " Dividends 2 41 28 41 + ------ ------ + Value at close of second year $55 19 + + Third year Dues $26 00 + " Dividends 4 53 30 53 + ------ ------ + Value at close of third year $85 72 + + Fourth year Dues $26 00 + " Dividends 6 10 32 10 + ------ ------- + Value at close of fourth year $117 82 + + Fifth year Dues $26 00 + " Dividends 8 34 34 34 + ------ ------- + Value at close of fifth year $152 16 + + Sixth year Dues $26 00 + " Dividends 10 41 36 41 + ------ ------- + Value at close of sixth year $188 60 + + Seventh year (16 weeks) Dues $8 00 + " Dividends 3 40 11 40 + ----- ------- + $200 00 + Time, 6 years and 16 weeks. + Total dues paid $164 00 + Total dividends 36 00 + ------- + $200 00 + + +[Footnote 1: The present rate of dividend is nine per cent, with an +added surplus.] + + +METHOD OF LOANING MONEY. + + The society loans money only to members. For each $200 share held + by a member he may borrow $200, secured by first mortgage on real + estate, interest on which is twenty-four cents per week. + + The right to precedence in borrowing is sold at auction at stated + times at the office of the Association (notice of which is given + beforehand) to the member who bids or agrees to pay the highest + weekly premium in addition to the twenty-four cents per week + interest. Ten cents per week is the average rate at which money was + sold during the year 1887, and is now selling. + + Members not desiring or not able to attend the sale of money in + person may have some one else bid for them, or they may leave a + written bid with the Secretary, on blanks prepared for that + purpose, who will make it for them at the sale. + + The society also loans to depositing members in sums equal to + ninety per cent of the dues paid in. Security is had by the member + pledging his stock for the payment of the loan and interest due (if + any) on notes prepared for that purpose. Interest on such loans has + for the present been placed at the rate of eight per cent per + annum. + + +PAYMENTS. + + The depositing and borrowing members alike pay fifty cents per week + per share. There are no additions for expenses, interest, premiums, + or fines. These are charged up at the close of each dividend + period, or at the closing up of an account. + + Each borrower is required to pay at least fifty cents per week on + each $200 of loan made to him, which is credited as follows:-- + + First the premium and interest are taken out, the interest being + twenty-four cents. When the premium bid is ten cents, both together + would amount to thirty-four cents. Then the balance, which in this + case would be sixteen cents, is credited as a payment on the share + on which the loan is taken. These payments are continued until the + amount credited on the shares, together with the dividends thereon, + will equal the amount loaned. For instance, suppose the loan to be + $200, and the premium bid to be ten cents per week,-- + + The payment each week would be 50 cents + The premium each week would be 10 cents + The interest each week would be 24 cents + --------- 34 cents + -------- + The credit on the share each week would be 16 cents + + These credits of sixteen cents per week begin to draw dividends on + the succeeding dividend period, which are compounded semi-annually, + and the weekly payments must be continued until the weekly credits + of sixteen cents and the dividends thereon amount to $200. + + Members are at liberty to pay every two weeks or monthly, and as + much beyond the required weekly payment as they may desire to. The + overpayments are credited like any regular payment and share in the + dividends. + + This enables borrowers to pay their loans off as fast as their + circumstances will admit. This method is very helpful, as the + interest and premium will be stopped on as many full shares as are + paid off, and the cost of a loan is materially reduced thereby. + + The minimum payment only is fixed. The borrower may at any time pay + the whole balance due on the loan and have it cancelled at once. + + It is always good policy for a borrower to pay more than the weekly + dues if he can, in order that in case of sickness, loss of work, or + other unforeseen hindrance, he may be paid ahead, and hence suspend + payment for a time without being fined or in danger of losing his + property. + + By the following table it is shown that with the premium at + twenty-four cents on each $200, and that the society is able to + earn six per cent per annum dividends (both of which are being done + now[2]), and the required weekly dues only being paid, a loan will + be paid up in fifteen years and six months. This time, as already + mentioned, can be shortened at the will and ability of the + borrower, and may be paid off at any time without any penalty + whatever. This is a great advantage, and the society can do this + only because of the great demand for loans, and the money does not + have to lie idle if a loan is paid off, but is immediately loaned + again. Here is a loan which you may take fifteen years to pay if + you wish, or you may pay it off at any time. + +TABLE. + +SHOWING COURSE OF LOAN OF $1,000. + + Premium 50 cents per week. + Interest $1.20 per week. + Six per cent dividends compounded semi-annually. + + FIRST YEAR: + + Loan $1,000 00 + Payments for year $130 00 + Interest and premium $88 40 + Less dividends 62 + ------ + Net cost of loan 87 78 + ------ + Principal reduced 42 22 + +[Footnote 2: Since this report was made the earnings have been nine per +cent, with an added surplus.] + + + SECOND YEAR: + + Balance due at end of first year $957 78 + Payments for year 130 00 + Premium and interest 88 40 + Less dividends 3 18 + ------ + Net cost of loan 85 22 + ------ + Principal reduced 44 78 + + THIRD YEAR: ------- + + Balance due at end of second year $913 00 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 5 91 + ------ + Net cost of loan 82 49 + ------ + Principal reduced 47 51 + + FOURTH YEAR: ------- + + Balance due at end of third year $865 49 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 8 79 + ------ + Net cost of loan 79 61 + ------ + Principal reduced 50 39 + + FIFTH YEAR: ------- + + Balance due at end of fourth year $815 10 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 11 88 + ------ + Net cost of loan 76 52 + ------ + Principal reduced 53 48 + + SIXTH YEAR: ------- + + Balance due at end of fifth year $761 62 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 15 12 + ------ + Net cost of loan 73 28 + ------ + Principal reduced 56 72 + + SEVENTH YEAR: + + Balance due at end of sixth year $704 90 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 18 60 + ------ + Net cost of loan 69 80 + ----- + Principal reduced 60 20 + + EIGHTH YEAR: ------- + + Balance due at end of seventh year $644 70 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 22 26 + ------ + Net cost of loan 66 14 + ------ + Principal reduced 63 86 + + NINTH YEAR: ------ + + Balance due at end of eighth year $580 84 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 26 13 + ------ + Net cost of loan 62 27 + ------ + Principal reduced 67 73 + + TENTH YEAR: ------ + + Balance due at end of ninth year $513 11 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 30 27 + ------ + Net cost of loan 58 13 + ------ + Principal reduced 71 87 + + ELEVENTH YEAR: ------- + + Balance due at end of tenth year $441 24 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 34 65 + ------ + Net cost of loan 53 75 + ------ + Principal reduced 76 25 + + TWELFTH YEAR: ------ + + Balance due at end of eleventh year $364 99 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 39 30 + ------ + Net cost of loan 49 10 + ------ + Principal reduced 80 90 + + THIRTEENTH YEAR: + + Balance due at end of twelfth year $284 09 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 44 22 + ------ + Net cost of loan 44 18 + ------ + Principal reduced 85 82 + + FOURTEENTH YEAR: ------ + + Balance due at end of thirteenth year $198 27 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 49 41 + ------ + Net cost of loan 38 99 + ------ + Principal reduced 91 01 + + FIFTEENTH YEAR: ------ + + Balance due at end of fourteenth year $107 26 + Payments for year 130 00 + Interest and premium 88 40 + Less dividends 54 99 + ------ + Net cost of loan 33 41 + ------ + Principal reduced 96 59 + + SIX WEEKS: ------- + + Balance due at end of fifteenth year $10 67 + Payments for six weeks 15 00 + Interest and premium 10 20 + Less dividends 5 87 + ------ + Net cost of loan 4 33 + ------ + Principal reduced 10 67 + ------ + Time, fifteen years and six weeks. + Total amount of payments $1,965 00 + Total interest and premium 1,336 20 + Total dividends 371 20 + Net cost of loan 965 00 + + With the reasonable prospect in view that the Association will be + able to pay larger dividends at some future time, it will be easy + to understand that the cost and the time of payment of a loan will + thereby be correspondingly reduced. + + +MORTGAGES. + + All loans must be secured by first mortgage on real estate in + Marion County, Ind. An appraising committee, consisting of three + members of the Association, appraise the value of all real estate + offered as security for loans and report to the board. No loan can + be made until the security has been approved by the Board of + Directors. + + This Association is now paying four per cent semi-annual dividends, + and adding largely to its surplus. + +A new feature in building-association work has recently been put into +practice. The association will buy for cash a house and lot, or buy a +lot and build a house thereon, and sell at a fair price to the member +whose application is accepted. Where the house and lot are bought at a +cash price, it is usual to charge a ten per cent bonus when selling it +on time to a member. The purchaser then completes the transaction by +securing the purchase money to the association, the same as in case of a +loan on any other property, except that instead of a deed from the +association he will receive a lease, with an agreement to sell and +convey to him the premises as soon as one-third of the purchase money +shall have been paid in regular dues on his stock. His stock will be +assigned as collateral security, and the payments will be credited as +rent until the deed is made. Then the purchaser will execute his +mortgage for the unpaid balance due on the property on the terms of his +original bid for the money. It is usual to require a cash payment equal +to the amount of the bonus; that is, ten per cent of the purchase price. +This is a valuable feature in building-association methods. It adds to +the profits of the association. This plan is adaptable to private +enterprise, and is liberal in its terms to the purchaser. + +In most associations organized on the perpetual plan, as previously +described, the demand for funds is greater than can be supplied from +depositing members. This has given rise to the "paid-up stock" feature +of building associations. Under this plan one may invest money in any +sum according to the terms of the charter and secure from the +association a certificate of paid-up stock which participates in the +regular dividends of the company. In this way, funds in larger amounts +may be secured than come from the ordinary payments by regular weekly +dues. It is not unusual for individuals to purchase paid-up stock to the +amount of several thousand dollars. This is a great help to an +association which is short of funds, as it serves to increase its +membership by addition of borrowers. There is no better place to invest +trust funds than in the paid-up stock of well-managed building +associations. Primarily, for the reason that each stockholder is pledged +in the amount of his stock to pay principal and six per cent interest on +all withdrawals; hence, the funds may be withdrawn at any time, and six +per cent interest thereon demanded. Furthermore, building-association +stock is not taxable in most States. + +Individual and moneyed corporations are coming to consider the matter of +loans, and means leading to their repayment, on the building-association +plan. This will be brought about largely by the low price of money +throughout the country at this time. Savings banks, mortgage companies, +and life-insurance organizations are finding it difficult to loan their +funds at a price that will pay their fixed obligations; hence, they are +seeking means which will lead to a more profitable investment of their +funds. The building-association plan of loaning money is one solution of +the problem. The low price of money is one of the elements which within +the next few years will enable nearly every one who so desires to secure +a home through the building association, or some plan which has its +outgrowth therefrom. + + + + +CHAPTER XL. + + PURCHASE OF A LOT.--THE BEST THE CHEAPEST.--A GOOD LOT AS A BASIS + OF SECURITY.--THE BASIS OF VALUE IS THE RENTAL. + + +There are many things to consider in connection with the building of a +house other than those which are constructive. One may lay aside that +which has to do with appearances, convenience, stability, and all that +is architectural, and yet have food for thought in connection with the +making of a home. For instance, the lot. No one can afford to build on +one that is absolutely cheap, or one that is cheap because it is not +well located or favorably thought of by the large number of people. A +lot that is absolutely cheap is not often worth even what is paid for +it. One of small means can least of all afford to put his money in a +questionable piece of property. A lot may be relatively cheap, and be a +good investment. For instance, there is a street lined with comfortable +houses. On this street live people of more or less wealth and +unquestioned ambition. Three or four squares beyond the last house of +this street the lots may be relatively cheap. The sum asked for them is +not great, for the reason that few care to go out so far. Still, by +adopting a little of the pioneer spirit, one can make a purchase of +these lots and be reasonably certain of being rewarded for his +foresight. It is much better to buy such a lot, and live for a year or +two without immediate neighbors, than to buy one which is absolutely +cheap because the surroundings are positively unfavorable. + +A man of small means least of all can afford to buy a lot that cannot +readily be sold for all it cost. We often hear people say, in regard to +lots that are surrounded unfavorably, "What is the difference? It suits +us; we can be as happy and comfortable there as any place. If we like +it, why should any one else complain?" No one else will complain. It may +occur that the owner of this absolutely cheap property may wish to sell. +He may become embarrassed in his business, or one of many things may +happen to cripple him financially. If he can sell at all, it is at a +sacrifice. If a mortgage is foreclosed, there is no reasonable chance of +redemption. If the lot is well located, and he becomes financially +embarrassed, he can sell for full value and thus relieve himself. If +there is danger of foreclosure, a sale can be readily effected, and thus +all danger of loss be averted. The idea in buying a lot is to get one +which can be readily sold. This is an important matter. + +In carrying out this principle, one of moderate means will often buy a +lot of higher cost than is apparently justifiable. However, this may be +the best thing for him to do. It may be good business. If he wishes to +borrow money with which to build, he has a better basis for credit. If +he puts his house on a good lot, there is opportunity of selling it +because of its favorable location, and thus the danger of embarrassment +is averted. One can afford to borrow money to build on a good lot, for +the reason that there is little danger of losing either the lot or the +money. The house and the lot, if it rates well in the public mind, can +be easily sold. The lot should not be selected or the house built, if +its sale is not entirely possible. There are towns as well as localities +in which no one of moderate means can afford to buy or build. Yet such +locations are often selected because they are cheap, and living is +cheap. The fact of this cheapness is against it. The property is cheap +because it is worth little or nothing. It is cheap because no one can +get out what he puts into it. This may apply to a lot in a particular +town, a particular part of a town, or to property in general in a county +or a State. Thus it is that no one of moderate means can afford to buy +absolutely cheap property. + +A young man once went to an architect to advise with him in regard to +the selection of a lot. He said,-- + +"There are two lots on a certain street that I can get for $1,200 each. +That is a little more than I want to pay, as even then I would have to +borrow more money than I wish in order to build my house. One of the +best lots I know anything about is on another street, but I can hardly +think of that, for they ask $1,500 for it." + +"I know the lot," said the architect, "and the $1,500 lot is the one to +buy. The $1,200 lots are of questionable value. The surrounding +conditions are such that their value is not liable to increase. The +$1,500 lot is in the swim; two squares below, lots cannot be bought for +$2,400; in fact, they are not in the market. They are owned by people +who desire to hold them. In two years you will be reasonably certain to +realize at least twice the difference between the values of the $1,500 +and the $1,200 lots. In one case, the value of the lot is not liable to +increase; it may decrease. In the other instance, there is reasonable +certainty of a large increase within a short time. It is on the edge of +high values." + +"But I shall have to borrow so much money with which to build, if I take +the high-priced lot." + +"What of it? Say your house is going to cost you $3,000. You say you +have $2,800 in cash. In one instance you would have to borrow $1,400, +and in the other $1,700. You are running much less risk in borrowing +$1,700 than you are in borrowing $1,400. If you had to sell, there is a +reasonable certainty that you could always make a profit on your $4,500 +investment, and a very questionable probability as to the $4,200 +investment." + +There are those who do some very remarkable things for the sake of +keeping out of debt, which, in the end, develops into more loss than +would be possible in the case of debt. For instance, one will buy a lot +for $1,500, and put a $1,500 house on it. In time the value of the lot +increases; at the same time the value of the house decreases. The lot in +itself would be worth more if the house were off it. It is a cheap house +on a good lot. Thus it is that such property is often sold and the +improvements counted as nothing. Again, exactly the other thing may +happen. An expensive house may be built on a cheap lot. When finished +the house is worth much less than it cost because it is not well +located. One cannot expect to get full value for the lot without moving +the house, and altogether the situation is disagreeable. How much better +it would be, from a business standpoint, not to build at all, use the +money some other way, or borrow enough money to have the house and lot +properly located. In one case there is positive loss; in the other, a +reasonable certainty of profit. + +Another thing for a man of moderate means to bear in mind in building a +house is, that the investments as to the house and lot should be such +that in case of rental the return derived would pay a fair interest on +the investment, and leave a sufficient margin for taxes and repairs. As +long as this condition exists, there need be no fear of loss through +foreclosure. The sale of the property may become necessary through +embarrassment in business, loss of situation, or illness; but in such a +case the property can either be sold without loss, or it can be rented +at a figure that will pay all fixed charges, which fact in itself +establishes a value above its cost price. If these principles are all +carried out, there is little chance of loss. + + + + +INDEX. + + +"A" door, 226. +Air supply to heating apparatus, 75-79. +American architecture, 26-28. +American architectural development, 104-105. +Architects' estimates, 278-281. +Architect, the, and the housewife, 9-27. +Architectural design, 101-105. +Areas, 206. +Ash-pits, 206. +Attic, 62. +Attic bedrooms, 63, 138. +Automatic heat regulators, 81. + +Back plastering, 237. +Base, 228, 229. +Basement, 56. +Bath-tub, 73, 74, 230, 255-258. +Bath-tub wood-work, 230, 231. +Bedrooms, 60-63. +Bedrooms in attic, 63. +Bedroom closets, 61. +Bedroom, first floor, 164. +Bedrooms, grates in, 62. +Bedroom for servants, 62. +Bond in brick-work, 201, 202. +Brick, hollow walls of, 203. +Brick of wood, 204. +Brick joints, 199. +Brick pavement, 212. +Brick piers, 200. +Brick, selection of color, 202. +Brick veneer, 203. +Brick-wall foundations, 200-204. +Brick-work, 199-206, 209-212. +Brick-work bond, 201, 202. +Broom closets, 61. +Broom-rack, 232. +"B" schedule, 268. +Building associations and savings banks, 296, 297. +Building association, a new feature in, 310. +Building association, object, 302. +Building associations, permanent plan, 300, 301. +Building-association profits, 295. +Building-association report, 302-310. +Building associations, safety of, 296, 297. +Building association, terminating plan, 299, 300. +Building-association methods, 293-311. +Building by the day, 281. +Building contract, 284-287. +Building material, cost of, 273. +Business points in building, 275-287. + +Capacity of cistern, 210. +Carpenter work, 213-235. +Casings outside, 218. +Cathedral glass, 245. +Cedar closet, 232. +Cellar, 51-53, 133. +Cellar brick-work, 203, 204. +Cellar closet, 52, 53. +Cellar doors, 226, 227. +Cellar laundry, 54-58. +Cellar plan, 142. +Cellar sink, 254. +Cellar-sink wood-work, 230. +Cellar-way, outside, 206. +Cement pavement, 212. +Chamber decoration, 99. +Chimneys, 204-206. +Chimney-breasts, 205, 206. +Chimney tops, 204. +China-closet fittings, 46. +China-room, 44-46, 232. +Cistern, 210, 211. +Cistern filter, 211. +Cistern-water supply, 71. +Clock shelf, 232. +Closets, bedroom, 61, 138. +Closets, broom, 61. +Closet fittings, 231, 232. +Closet of cedar, 232. +Coal-bins in cellar, 51, 52. +Colored bricks, 202, 203. +Colored plastering, 237. +Color of mortar, 202. +Combination stairs, 59, 60, 137-141. +Combination pantry, 45, 132. +Competition in building, 281-283. +Conservatory, 99. +Contracting methods, 277-287. +Copper, 240, 241. +Cost of appurtenances, 271, 272. +Cost of building material, 273, 274. +Cost of one-story houses, 163. +Cost schedules, 264, 267-269. +Cost of a house, 264-274. +Cut stone work, 208, 209. + +Damp course, 200. +"D" door, 227. +Deck roof, 216. +Depth of foundation, 200. +Dining-room, 37, 38, 96-99. +Dish-warming, arrangement for, 84. +Dish-washing, 11, 42. +Doors and frames, 225-227. +Dough-board, 46, 47. +Double joists, 215. +Down spouts, 240. +Draining, 198, 199. +Drain board, 43, 230. +Drain connections, 261. +Drain from refrigerator, 241. +Drain outside, 71. +Drain ventilation, 71. +Dressed shingles, 218. +Drop siding, 217. +Dry-box, 48, 232. + +"E" door, 227. +Eastlake, Charles, 104. +Estimates of architects, 278-281. +Evaporation in traps, 67-68. +Evolution of a house-plan, 109-117. +Excavating, 198. +Excavating for plumber, 247, 248. + +Fifty convenient houses, plans of, 107. +Fig. "A," frontispiece. Fig. "B," 106. +Fig. 2, 41. +Fig. 3, 43. +Fig. 4, 45. +Fig. 5, 46. +Fig. 6, 67. +Fig. 7, 68. +Fig. 8, 116. +Fig. 9, 116. +Fig. 10, photographic view (page 116). +Fig. 11, 117. +Fig. 12, 124. +Fig. 13, 133. +Fig. 14, 147. +Fig, 15, 149. +Fig. 16, 151. +Fig. 17, photographic view (page 152). +Fig. 18, 154. +Fig. 19, 154. +Fig. 20, 160. +Fig. 21, 168. +Fig. 22, 169. +Fig. 23, 181. +Fig. 24, photographic view (page 182). +Fig. 25, 186. +Fig. 26, photographic view (page 190). +Fig. 27, 191. +Fig. 28, 191. +Fig. 29, 193. +Fig. 30, 199. +Fig. 31, 205. +Fig. 32, 206. +Fig. 33, 215. +Fig. 34, 217. +Fig. 35, 226. +Fig. 36, 227. +Fig. 37, 227. +Fig. 38, 262. +Filters for cisterns, 211. +Finish of floor, 244. +Finishing in oil, 243, 244. +Fireplaces in bedrooms, 62. +Fixtures in plumbing enumerated, 66. +Flashings, 239. +Flat roofs, 240. +Floors, 222, 223. +Floor of kitchen, 49. +Floor finish, 244. +Flour-bin, 47, 233, 234. +Flues, 203. +Fly screens, 228. +Foundation depth, 200. +Foundations, stone, 207, 208. +Force-pump, 249. +Framing, 213-219. +Framing lumber, sizes of, 213, 214. +Fresco tinting, 92. +Freezing of plumbing, 70, 71. +Fuel in cellar, 51, 52. +Furnace, defined, 76. +Furnace and hot-water combination, 83, 84. +Furnace-room in cellar, 52. + +Galvanized iron, 241. +Gas-piping, 237, 238. +German siding, 217. +Glazing, 244, 245. +Grates in bedrooms, 62. +Grease sink, 72, 73, 263. +Gutters, 239. + +Hall, 33-35. +Hall, reception, 35, 36. +Hardware, 245, 246. +Hard-wood floors, 223. +Heating apparatus, how to get a good, 83, 85. +Heating and ventilation, 75-85. +Heating by hot water, 80, 83. +Heating by steam, 80. +Heating by stoves, 80. +Heating, ideal conditions, 76. +Heating plants, cost of, 81, 82, 83. +Heat regulators, automatic, 81. +Height of stories, 214. +Hip coping, 240. +Hip finish, 217. +Hollow walls of brick, 203. +Hot-air flues in brick walls, 203. +Hot-air pipes of tin, 241. +Hot-water boiler, 71. +Hot water and furnace combination, 83, 84. +Hot-water heating, 80. +Hot-water plumbing, 70. +Hot-water system, 252. +House decoration, 86-100. +House drain, 71. +House ventilation, 75, 79. +Housekeeper, the, and the architect, 11-15, 26-28. +Housekeeping operations, 16-20. +How to secure a home, 289-316. +Humidity of air, 77, 81. +Hydrant, 249. + +Inside casings, 228. +Inside shutters, 229, 230. +Inside finish, table of, 224. +Inside wood-work, 222-235. + +Joints, rodded, 199. +Joists, 214, 215. +Journey, a, through the house, 29-105. + +Kitchens, 39-50. +Kitchen fittings, 42, 43. +Kitchen floor, 49. +Kitchen plans, 41, 45. +Kitchen pantry, 45-48. +Kitchen plastering, 50. +Kitchen safe, 48. +Kitchen sink, 43, 253, 254. +Kitchen tables, 43, 230. +Kitchen utensils, 48. +Kitchen ventilation, 49. +Kitchen wainscoting, 49. + +Landings for stairs, 60. +Lattice porch, 220. +Laundry, 54-58. +Laundry fittings, 260, 261. +Laundry, low-cost, 55-58. +Laundry stove, 56. +Laundry tubs, 57. +Library, 95, 96. +Lien laws, 285, 286. +Lighting bedrooms, 61, 62. +Lintels in brick-work, 204. +Locating the house, 197. +Lot, purchase of, 312, 316. +Low-cost laundry, 55-58. +Lumber for framing, 213. + +Mantel costs, 271. +Mason work, 199-209. +Medicine-chest, 232. +Modern architects and the housekeeper, 26-28. +Modern conveniences, 21-25. +Moisture in heated air, 77-81. +Monthly payments, 291-293. +Mortar, color of, 202. +Mortgages, 310, 311. +Motor, 251. + +Natural-gas piping, 238. +Nickel fittings, 263. + +Oil finish, 243, 244. +Old colonial houses, 26, 27. +One-story houses, 157-163. +Ornamental brick, 203. +Outside cellar-way, 206. +Outside finish, 217-221. +Outside shutters, 219, 220. +Outside steps, 220, 221. + +Painting, 242, 243. +Paint, ready mixed, 242. +Painting of shingles, 216. +Pantry boxes, 234. +Pantry, combination, 45, 132. +Pantry fittings, 46. +Pantry shelves, 47. +Pantry specification, 233. +Pantry utensils, 48. +Parlor, 35-37, 93-95. +Pavement of brick, 212. +Pavement of cement, 212. +Permanent plan, building associations, 300, 301. +Picture mouldings, 231. +Piers of brick, 200. +Pipe boards, 230. +Pipe duct, 70, 230. +Plastering, 236. +Plastering, back, 237. +Plastering, gray, 236. +Plastering in kitchen, 50. +Plate-glass, 245. +Plans of fifty convenient houses, 107. +Plan No. 1, cost $1,700, 110. +Plan No. 2, cost $1,550, 111. +Plan No. 3, cost $1,550, 112. +Plan No. 4, cost $1,800, 113. +Plan No. 5, cost $1,900, 114. +Plan No. 6, cost $2,600, 115. +Plan No. 7, cost $2,900, 121. +Plan No. 8, cost $2,200, 129. +Plan No. 9, cost $2,500, 132. +Plan No. 10, cost $2,600, 136. +Plan No. 11, cost $2,000, 141, 142. +Plan No. 12, cost $2,600, 144. +Plan No. 13, cost $1,600, 146. +Plan No. 14, cost $1,500, 148. +Plan No. 15, cost $2,550, 150. +Plan No. 16, cost $2,800, 153. +Plan No. 17, cost $2,200, 154. +Plan No. 18, cost $1,600, 155. +Plan No. 19, cost $1,400, 158. +Plan No. 20, cost $1,200, 158. +Plan No. 21, cost $1,700, 161. +Plan No. 22, cost $800, 161. +Plan No. 23, cost $1,600, 162. +Plan No. 24, cost $1,100, 162. +Plan No. 25, cost $1,400, 163. +Plan No. 26, cost $2,000, 163. +Plan No. 27, cost $3,000, 165. +Plan No. 28, cost $2,800, 165. +Plan No. 29, cost $2,600, 166. +Plan No. 30, cost $3,000, 167. +Plan No. 31, cost $2,400, 169. +Plan No. 32, cost $4,000, 172. +Plan No. 33, cost $2,800, 173. +Plan No. 34, cost $2,500, 174. +Plan No. 35, cost $2,250, 175. +Plan No. 36, cost $2,000, 175. +Plan No. 37, cost $2,100, 176. +Plan No. 38, cost $2,000, 177. +Plan No. 39, cost $3,500, 178. +Plan No. 40, cost $3,100, 179. +Plan No. 41, cost $3,400, 179. +Plan No. 42, cost $2,800, 180. +Plan No. 43, cost $2,200, 183. +Plan No. 44, cost $5,000, 184. +Plan No. 45, cost $2,100, 184. +Plan No. 46, cost $3,400, 185. +Plan No. 47, cost $10,000, 187. +Plan No. 48, cost $3,400, 189. +Plan No. 49, cost $3,400, 190. +Plan No. 50, cost $10,000, 192. +Plumbing, 64-74. +Plumbing costs, 268-270. +Plumbing fixtures, 65. +Plumbing, practical, 247-263. +Porcelain water-closets, 69. +Porches, 31, 220. +Practical house-building, 195-274. +Preface, 3, 4. +Prevention of freezing in plumbing, 70, 71. +Privy vault, 209, 210. +Purchase of a lot, 312-316. +Purchase on a rental basis, 291-293. + +Radiation, direct, 80, 81. +Radiation, indirect, 80, 81. +Ready mixed paint, 242. +Rear stairway, 60. +Reception-hall, 35, 36. +Reception-hall decoration, 88, 89. +Reception-hall mantel, 89. +Refrigerator, 47. +Refrigerator drain, 48, 241, +Ridge coping, 240. +Ridge finish, 216, 217. +Rodded joints, 199. +Roof, 216, 217. + +Safety in plumbing, 64. +Safes, 258. +Sash weights, 219. +Savings banks and building associations, 296, 297. +Schedule "B," 268. +Sealed proposals, 284. +Second floor, the, 59-63. +Servant's bedroom, 62. +Service pipes, 249. +Sewer and vault connection, 65. +Sewer connection, 72, 261, 262. +Sewer gas, 66, 67, 72. +Sheet glass, 245. +Shower-bath, 257. +Shingles, 216, 217, 218. +Shingles, painting of, 216. +Shingles, stained, 218. +Shingle walls, 217. +Shutters, outside, 219, 220. +Shutters, inside, 229, 230. +Siding, drop, 217. +Siding, German, 217. +Side-hall plans, 164-166. +Sink in cellar, 254. +Sink in kitchen, 43, 230, 254. +Sitting-room, 35, 36, 91. +Sizes for framing lumber, 213, 214. +Sliding doors, 225. +Soap-box, 48, 49, 232. +Soft-water supply, 250. +Soil pipe, 66, 67, 253. +Splash board, 230, 231. +Splash board in bath-room, 231. +Spouts, 240. +Staining, exterior, 243. +Staining, interior, 243. +Stained shingles, 218. +Stairs, 234, 235. +Stairs, combination, 59, 60. +Stairways, 59, 60. +Stairway, combination, 137, 140, 141. +Stairway, rear, 60. +Steam heating, 80. +Stone foundations, 207, 208. +Stone sills, 208. +Stone steps, 208, 209. +Stop beads, 227. +Stop cocks, 249. +Storm water connections, 262. +Stories, height of, 214. +"S" trap, 66, 67, 263. +Street washer, 249. +Stove heating, 80. +Stud walls, 215, 216. + +Tables in kitchen, 230. +Table of inside finish, 224. +Tank wood-work, 231. +Terminating plan in building associations, 299, 300. +Terra cotta, 209. +Tin hot-air pipes, 241. +Tin-work, 239-241. +Transoms, 226. +Traps, 66, 67, 263. +Traps fail to act, 76. +Trap screws, 263. +Trimmer arch, 205, 206. +Trimmers, 214. + +Valleys, 239. +Vault and sewer connection, 65. +Veneered doors, 225, 226. +Veneer of brick, 203. +Ventilation and heating, 75-85. +Ventilation, drain, 71. +Ventilation, house, 75, 79. +Ventilation of kitchen, 49. +Vestibule, 31-33. +Vestibule decoration, 87, 88. + +Wainscoting, 229. +Wainscoting in kitchen, 49. +Walls of shingles, 217. +Wash-stand, 72, 259, 260. +Wash-stand wood-work, 231. +Waste pipe, 66, 67. +Water-closets, 68, 69, 70, 259. +Water-closets, porcelain, 69. +Water-closet, washout, 68, 69. +Water-closet wood-work, 231. +Water distribution, 248. +Water for builder, 197. +Water for laundry, 56, 57. +Water motor, 251. +Water tank in attic, 71. +Water seal, 67, 68. +Windows, 218, 219. +Wooden brick, 204. +Wood carving, 90. +Wood-work for bath-room, 231. +Wood for inside finish, 225. +Wood-work for plumber, 230, 231. +Wood-work for water-closet, 231. + + + * * * * * + + +"_THIS BEAUTIFUL BOOK._" + +_--Standard Union._ + +BEAUTIFUL HOUSES. + +BY LOUIS H. GIBSON, ARCHITECT. + +AUTHOR OF "CONVENIENT HOUSES." + +WITH OVER 250 ILLUSTRATIONS. 8VO. CLOTH. $3.00. + + Since the publication of his "Convenient Houses" Mr. Gibson has + been abroad, where he made a careful study of the national + architecture of many countries. Mr. Gibson is remarkable for the + skill with which he manages to utilize ordinary waste spaces, to + place every possible convenience in the housekeeper's hands; in + short, to apply common-sense in an uncommon manner. No one + interested in building a new house, or altering over an old one, + could fail to obtain valuable hints from his books. The volume is + sumptuously illustrated, and will be a delight to all connoisseurs, + both of architecture and of book-making. + +Contents of the Book. + + HOUSE-BUILDING AN ART. Ugly houses, uneducated architects, cost + never measures the artistic, development of art in building, the + primitive house, first principles, the Greek temple and the Indian + hut, the old Roman and the Old Colonial, Romanesque architecture, + Gothic architecture, decline of the Gothic, the Renaissance, modern + architecture of Europe, characteristics of modern American + architecture, etc. + + THE WORLD'S HOMES. French domestic architecture, twelfth century + building, floor plans of domestic structures, picturesque stair + towers, half-timber architecture of the twelfth century, our use of + French examples, Breton customs, furniture, French chateaux, + English domestic architecture, domestic buildings of the sixteenth + and seventeenth centuries, picturesque details, from the Gothic to + the Renaissance, modern architecture of Germany, Swiss + architecture, Old Colonial architecture, a classic development, + characteristic New England architecture, luxurious character of the + Old Colonial in the South, etc. + + SOME HOUSE PLANS. Relation of the exterior to the location, the + dormers, the inside finish, mantels, a centre-hall plan, frame + building, a little room for cloaks and wraps, decorative forms, + interior photographs, external details, Greek mouldings, a wide + central hall open at each end, large rooms, a picturesque stairway, + color schemes in decoration, description of floor plan, a fine + location, a river front, picturesque stair-hall, a smoking-room + under the balcony, etc. + + MATERIALS AND DETAILS. Shingle-houses, the proper surroundings, + the stains of time, artificial stain, examples, slate walls, + fireplaces and mantels, character in mantels, tile facings, onyx + and brick, doors, the defensive, hospitality, material, foreign + examples, domestic doors, stairs, foreign examples, broad landings, + Old Colonial stairways, iron railings, furniture, architects' + designs, sideboards, bookcases, seats, lounges, screens, grilles, + walls and ceilings, etc. + + THE ARCHITECT. The architect and the housewife, business and the + arts, costs, proper understanding of the client's wishes, plenty of + time to make plans. + + +Press Notices. + + +New York Sun. + +"A handsome book, copiously illustrated, giving foreign examples in +domestic architecture, a collection of American house plans, and +including a consideration of materials and details for the benefit of +the artistic house-builder." + + +Chicago Evening Post. + +"A most timely publication, and will find admirers among amateur +builders as well as trained architects." + + +Boston Advertiser. + +"Mr. Gibson's book is something more than an enunciation of theories. +Under the headings 'Some House Plans' and 'Materials and Details,' there +is a practical working out of the architect's general idea. This part of +the work is most valuably suggestive, and the intending house builder +will find it greatly to his interest to consult Mr. Gibson's books. The +present volume is one in which marked utility is combined with great +beauty." + + +Detroit Free Press. + +"It would hardly seem possible that a work on house-building could be +such pleasant reading as is this handsome volume." + + +Congregationalist. + +"His former book met a real need. His present work is full of wise and +practical suggestions as to securing beauty without sacrificing +convenience or running into extravagance. All about to build or +reconstruct a house will find it helpful." + + +Indianapolis News. + +"This work is a credit to Mr. Gibson and to his profession. It is a +reflection of deep knowledge of architecture, and of experience in the +practice of the profession. The illustrations are abundant and +excellent, and the whole is a beautiful piece of book-making. An +appropriate cover is designed by David Gibson." + + +Literary World. + +"The author is an architect of knowledge, ideas, and tastes.... To any +family projecting a home of their own this volume will bring a multitude +of helps." + + +Bookseller, Newsdealer and Stationer. + +"One of the handsomest and at the same time most practical books ever +published by the Crowells." + + +_For Sale by all Booksellers, or sent postpaid by the Publishers on +receipt of price._ + +T. Y. CROWELL & CO., New York and Boston. + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Obvious punctuation errors have been corrected and missing punctuation +has been added. + +Archaic words and misspelled words, as well as inconsistent hyphenation, +have been retained with the exception of those listed below. + +Page 60: "the" added for continuity (The rear stairway should be +connected with the front part of the house). + +Page 89: "of" added for continuity (This arrangement frequently admits +of the placing of a seat along one side of the outer part of the lower +landing.) + +Page 292: No footnote is included at the bottom of the page for the +reference contained in the text. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42469 *** |