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diff --git a/42469.txt b/42469.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 53b0fba..0000000 --- a/42469.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,9444 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, Convenient Houses, by Louis Henry Gibson - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: Convenient Houses - With Fifty Plans for the Housekeeper, Architect and Housewife - - -Author: Louis Henry Gibson - - - -Release Date: April 5, 2013 [eBook #42469] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CONVENIENT HOUSES*** - - -E-text prepared by Pat McCoy, Chris Curnow, and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made -available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this - file which includes the original illustrations. - See 42469-h.htm or 42469-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42469/42469-h/42469-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42469/42469-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/convenienthouses00gibs - - - - - -[Illustration: FIGURE A.] - - -CONVENIENT HOUSES - -With Fifty Plans for the Housekeeper -Architect and Housewife--A Journey -Through the House--Fifty Convenient -House Plans--Practical House Building -for the Owner--Business Points -in Building--How to Pay for a Home - -by - -LOUIS H. GIBSON - -Architect - - - - - - - -New York: -Thomas Y. Crowell & Co. - -Copyright, 1889, -By Louis H. Gibson. - -C. J. Peters & Son, -Typographers And Electrotypers, -145 High Street, Boston. - - - - -PREFACE. - - -When the reader is familiar with the writer's general purposes, it is -easier to understand the details of his work. This book is intended to -deal with houses in a housekeeping spirit. In doing this, the architect -has in mind convenience, stability, and that ideal of housekeepers, -beauty of surroundings. - -In carrying out this idea, the relation of architecture to good and -economical housekeeping is first considered. Following this division is -"A Journey through the House." It begins at the porch, moves through the -different rooms, and stops to consider the various details. This brings -about not only a consideration of the general arrangement of a house, -but such details as kitchens and pantries, plumbing, laundry, and -heating. - -These first two sections of the book--"The Architect and the Housewife," -and "A Journey through the House"--are, in a measure, educational. After -this, and in keeping with the general principles that have been set -forth, plans of fifty convenient houses are illustrated and described. -For the most part, they are houses that have been built. - -The next section is devoted to practical house-building. It is -constructed by taking a complete specification for everything which may -concern a dwelling-house, and ridding it, as far as possible, of all -technicalities; thus putting in form all practical house-building -questions for the benefit of the owner. - -Following this is the consideration of business points in building, -which sets forth methods of letting contracts with the view of securing -the best results without waste of money. - -The closing section is devoted to the getting of a home,--how to arrange -the monthly-payment schemes, building-association plans, and other -methods for getting a house on easy instalments. - - LOUIS H. GIBSON, ARCHITECT. - INDIANAPOLIS, IND., September, 1889. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - _THE ARCHITECT AND THE HOUSEWIFE._ - - CHAPTER I. - - THE HOUSEKEEPER AND THE ARCHITECT.--FLOOR-PLANS AS RELATED - TO GOOD HOUSEKEEPING.--LABOR-SAVING DEVICES.--ECONOMY - AND GOOD CONSTRUCTION.--COMPACT HOUSES NOT NECESSARILY - CROWDED.--WOOD-WORK THAT IS READILY CLEANED 11-15 - - CHAPTER II. - - HOUSEKEEPING OPERATIONS.--THE WORK OF THE HOUSEKEEPER.--THE - AVERAGE HOUSEWORK OF A WEEK.--THE ARCHITECT'S - LESSON THEREFROM 16-20 - - CHAPTER III. - - MODERN CONVENIENCES.--A LITTLE HISTORY.--PLANS THAT MAKE - EXTRA WORK.--MODERN CONVENIENCES ENUMERATED 21-25 - - CHAPTER IV. - - MODERN ARCHITECTS AND THE HOUSEKEEPER.--MISPLACED HOUSES.--OLD - COLONIAL POVERTY IN MODERN COLONIAL HOUSES.--AFFECTATION - IN DESIGN.--NATURAL DEVELOPMENT OF AMERICAN - ARCHITECTURE.--AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE AND AMERICAN - HOMES 26-28 - - - _A JOURNEY THROUGH THE HOUSE._ - - CHAPTER V. - - JOURNEY THROUGH THE HOUSE.--PORCH.--VESTIBULE.--HALL.--LONG - HALLS AND SQUARE HALLS.--THE HALL THAT IS A - ROOM.--RECEPTION-HALL.--PARLOR.--SITTING-ROOM.--DINING-ROOM 31-38 - - CHAPTER VI. - - KITCHENS.--THE KITCHEN A WORKSHOP.--WORK TO BE DONE IN - A KITCHEN.--A PLAN.--FITTINGS.--DISH-WASHING - CONVENIENCES.--SINK AND TABLES.--CHINA-CLOSET.--PANTRY. - --COMBINATION PANTRY.--PANTRY FITTINGS.--WORK IN A - PANTRY.--A DOUGH-BOARD.--FLOUR-BIN.--PANTRY - STORES.--CUPBOARD.--REFRIGERATOR ARRANGEMENTS.--PANTRY - UTENSILS.--A DRY-BOX.--SOAP-BOX.--VENTILATION OF - KITCHEN.--GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF KITCHEN PLANNING 39-50 - - CHAPTER VII. - - CELLAR.--FUEL DEPARTMENTS.--FURNACE CONVENIENCES.--COAL-BINS. - --CEMENT FLOORS.--LIGHT IN THE CELLAR.--A CELLAR-CLOSET. - --OUTSIDE CELLAR-DOOR 51-53 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - A LOW-COST LAUNDRY.--BLUE MONDAY.--BASEMENT LAUNDRY.--LOW-COST - CONVENIENCES.--INEXPENSIVE LAUNDRY FITTINGS.--HOT - AND COLD WATER ARRANGEMENTS.--A LABOR-SAVING - LAUNDRY.--A PLACE TO DO FRUIT-CANNING 54-58 - - CHAPTER IX. - - THE SECOND FLOOR.--STAIRWAYS.--THE COMBINATION STAIRWAY.--IDEAL - NUMBER OF BEDROOMS.--LARGE CLOSETS AND PLENTY - OF THEM.--A LINEN CLOSET.--PLACING OF GAS-FIXTURES.--SERVANT'S - ROOM.--BATH-ROOM.--AN ATTIC.--ATTIC CLOSETS.--ATTIC - ROOMS 59-63 - - CHAPTER X. - - PLUMBING.--IS PLUMBING ENTIRELY SAFE?--COMPLETENESS IN - PLUMBING APPARATUS.--LABOR-SAVING PLUMBING APPARATUS.--SEWER - CONNECTIONS.--SOIL PIPE.--A TRAP.--ACCIDENTS - TO TRAPS.--FREQUENT USE OF PLUMBING APPARATUS DESIRABLE - FOR SAFETY.--WATER-CLOSETS.--SIMPLICITY IN PLUMBING.--DRAIN - CONNECTIONS.--TO KEEP PLUMBING APPARATUS FROM - FREEZING.--CISTERN WATER SUPPLY.--GREASE SINK.--FLUSHING - OF DRAIN.--BATH-TUB 64-74 - - CHAPTER XI. - - HEAT AND VENTILATION.--COMMON HEATING ARRANGEMENTS.--PRESENT - METHODS GENERALLY UNSATISFACTORY.--IDEAL CONDITIONS.--PROPER - AMOUNT OF MOISTURE RARELY ATTAINED.--A - FURNACE DEFINED.--METHODS OF REACHING BEST RESULTS.--SUPPLY - OF PROPER AMOUNT OF MOISTURE.--REMOVAL OF - FOUL AIR.--SUPPLYING FRESH AIR WITH PROPER MOISTURE - FROM STOVES.--STEAM AND HOT-WATER HEATING.--DIRECT - AND INDIRECT RADIATION.--LOW-COST HEATING APPARATUS 75-82 - - CHAPTER XII. - - HEATING DEVICES AS WE FIND THEM.--FURNACE ESTIMATES.--COMBINATION - HOT AIR AND HOT WATER.--DISH-WARMING - ARRANGEMENTS.--HOW TO GET A GOOD HEATING APPARATUS 83-85 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - THE HOUSE AND ITS BEAUTY.--ARTISTIC SURROUNDINGS.--BEAUTY - MORE A MATTER OF INTELLIGENCE THAN MONEY.--VESTIBULE - DECORATIONS.--BEAUTY IN THE RECEPTION-HALL.--MANTELS - AND GRATES.--FRET-WORK AND PORTIERES.--SPINDLE WORK.--SIMPLE - FORMS OF GOOD DECORATION.--WOOD-CARVING.--DOOR - AND WINDOW CASINGS.--A CONSERVATORY.--STAINED - GLASS.--A CABINET ON THE MANTEL.--TINTED PLASTERING. - --FRESCOING.--SAFETY IN THE SELECTION OF COLORS.--AN - ATTRACTIVE SITTING-ROOM.--THE PARLOR.--A RECEPTION-ROOM. - --PARLOR HISTORY.--THE IDEAL PARLOR.--THE LIBRARY.--A - PLACE OF QUIET AND REST.--LIBRARY FURNISHINGS.--THE - DINING-ROOM.--SOCIAL RELATIONS OF THE DINING-ROOM. - --DINING-ROOM DECORATIONS.--CONSERVATORY AND DINING-ROOM. - --A WOOD CEILING.--BEAUTY IN BEDROOMS.--QUIET AND LIGHT 86-100 - - CHAPTER XIV. - - EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL DESIGN.--AN OLD TOPIC BEFORE THE - PEOPLE.--THE ARCHITECTURAL STUDENT'S DREAM.--A BEAUTIFUL - HOME THE HOUSEKEEPER'S AMBITION.--IT COSTS NO - MORE TO HAVE A HOUSE BEAUTIFUL THAN UGLY.--ARCHITECTURAL - EDUCATION.--CHARLES EASTLAKE'S BOOK.--VULGAR - ARCHITECTURAL REVIVALS.--THE GROWTH OF THE ARTISTIC - IDEA.--BEAUTY A MATTER OF REFINEMENT 101-105 - - - _PLANS OF FIFTY CONVENIENT HOUSES._ - - CHAPTER XV. - - EVOLUTION OF A HOUSE-PLAN.--RESPECTABLE DIMENSIONS FOR A - MODERATE PRICE.--SIX PLANS.--COSTS FROM $1,500 TO - $2,600 109-117 - - CHAPTER XVI. - - A SMALL POCKET-BOOK AND A LARGE IDEA.--AMBITION, DOLLARS, - AND A GOOD HOUSE.--THE GROWTH OF THE HOUSEKEEPER'S - IDEAS.--POINTS ABOUT THE HOUSE.--$2,900 118-125 - - CHAPTER XVII. - - "WE KNOW WHAT WE WANT."--A CONVENIENT PLAN.--MEETING - THE WANTS OF PEOPLE WHO BUILD 126-130 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - TWO GOOD ROOMS IN FRONT.--THE COMBINATION PANTRY.--TOO - MUCH CELLAR A BURDEN.--$2,500 131-134 - - CHAPTER XIX. - - SITTING-ROOM AND PARLOR IN FRONT.--A CONNECTING VESTIBULE.--A - CENTRAL COMBINATION STAIRWAY.--GOOD ROOMS IN THE - ATTIC 135-138 - - CHAPTER XX. - - A COMPACT PLAN.--AN ISOLATED RECEPTION-ROOM.--COMBINATION - STAIRWAY.--DESCRIPTION OF THE FLOOR-PLAN.--CELLAR - ARRANGEMENT.--DINING-ROOM AND CONSERVATORY.--ANOTHER - PLAN 139-144 - - CHAPTER XXI. - - WHAT CAN BE DONE FOR $1,600?--THE CLOSET IN THE HALL.--A - SMALL, CONVENIENT KITCHEN.--CLOSETS IN THE BEDROOMS 145-151 - - CHAPTER XXII. - - OUTGROWTHS OF ONE IDEA.--EVERYTHING COUNTS AS A ROOM.--ONE - CHIMNEY.--CONVENIENCES OF A CONDENSED HOUSE.--COST - FROM $1,600 TO $2,800 152-156 - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - ONE-STORY PLANS.--DESCRIPTION OF FLOOR-PLANS.--BATH-ROOM - NEXT TO KITCHEN FLUE.--KITCHEN, PORCH, AND PANTRY.--THE - EXTERIOR.--ENLARGEMENTS ON THIS PLAN.--OTHER ONE-STORY - HOUSES 157-163 - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - SIDE-HALL PLANS.--PLANS WITH BEDROOM ON FIRST FLOOR 164-170 - - CHAPTER XXV. - - MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTION.--SHORT DESCRIPTIONS OF ELEVEN - HOUSE-PLANS.--VARYING COSTS.--SQUARE PLANS.--ONE-CHIMNEY - PLANS.--REAR AND SIDE HALL 171-181 - - CHAPTER XXVI. - - EIGHT PLANS.--EACH SUITED TO FAMILY REQUIREMENTS.--DOUBLE - HOUSES.--AN ELABORATE FLOOR-PLAN.--A SHINGLE HOUSE.--A - BRICK HOUSE 182-193 - - - _PRACTICAL HOUSE-BUILDING._ - - CHAPTER XXVII. - - PRACTICAL POINTS.--WATER.--LOCATION OF HOUSE ON LOT. - --DRAINING THE CELLAR.--MASON WORK.--FOUNDATIONS.--WALKS. - --PIERS.--FLUES.--CISTERNS.--DAMP COURSE 197-200 - - CHAPTER XXVIII. - - BRICK FOUNDATIONS.--LAYING BRICK.--COLORED MORTARS.--COLORED - BRICKS.--BRICK VENEERING.--HOT-AIR FLUES.--DETAILS - OF BRICK CONSTRUCTION.--CHIMNEYS AND FLUES.--HOLLOW - WALLS.--CELLAR.--ASH-PITS.--GRATES 201-206 - - CHAPTER XXIX. - - STONE MASONRY.--CUT STONE.--TERRA COTTA.--PRIVY VAULTS. - --CISTERNS.--FILTERS FOR CISTERNS.--BRICK PAVEMENTS.--CEMENT - PAVEMENTS 207-212 - - CHAPTER XXX. - - CARPENTER-WORK.--FRAMING.--SIZE OF TIMBERS.--HEIGHT OF - STORIES.--JOIST.--STUD WALLS.--OUTSIDE SHEATHING. - --BUILDING-PAPER.--ROOFS.--OUTSIDE FINISH.--OUTSIDE - SHINGLE WALLS.--OUTSIDE CASINGS.--WINDOWS WITH BOX - FRAMES.--HINGED OR PIVOTED WINDOWS.--OUTSIDE SHUTTERS. - --PORCHES.--LATTICE PORCHES 213-221 - - CHAPTER XXXI. - - INSIDE WOOD-WORK.--FLOORS.--SOFT AND HARD WOOD FLOORS. - --TABULATED STATEMENT OF INSIDE FINISH.--DIFFERENT - KINDS OF WOOD.--DOORS AND FRAMES.--FLY SCREENS.--INSIDE - CASINGS.--WAINSCOTING.--INSIDE SHUTTERS.--WOOD-WORK - FOR PLUMBING.--KITCHEN SINK AND FITTINGS.--KITCHEN - TABLES.--CELLAR-SINK FITTINGS.--WOOD-WORK FOR - BATH-TUB.--WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--TANK.--PICTURE - MOULDING.--CLOSET FITTINGS.--BROOM-RACK.--CEDAR-CLOSET. - --DRY-BOX.--CLOCK SHELF.--CHINA-ROOM FITTINGS.--PANTRY - FITTINGS.--STAIRWAYS 222-235 - - CHAPTER XXXII. - - PLASTERING.--GRAY FINISH.--WHITE HARD FINISH.--BACK - PLASTERING.--GAS-PIPING.--TIN WORK.--GUTTERS.--VALLEYS. - --DOWN SPOUTS.--GALVANIZED IRON-WORK.--HOT-AIR PIPES. - --THIMBLES.--PAINTING.--STAINING.--OIL FINISHING.--INTERIOR - STAINING.--FLOOR FINISH.--GLAZING.--PLATE-GLASS.--BEVELLED - GLASS.--CATHEDRAL GLASS.--HARDWARE 236-246 - - CHAPTER XXXIII. - - PRACTICAL PLUMBING.--WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBER.--EXCAVATING - FOR PLUMBER.--WATER DISTRIBUTION.--OUTSIDE FIXTURES. - --HYDRANTS.--STREET-WASHERS.--SOFT-WATER SUPPLY.--HOT-WATER - SUPPLY.--SOIL PIPE.--INSIDE FIXTURES.--KITCHEN - SINK.--CELLAR SINK 247-254 - - CHAPTER XXXIV. - - PLUMBING WORK CONTINUED.--BATH-TUBS.--BATH-SPRINKLERS. - --FOOT-TUBS.--SAFES.--WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--LAUNDRY - FITTINGS.--SET TUBS.--OUTSIDE DRAINS.--GREASE - SINKS.--NICKEL FITTINGS 255-263 - - CHAPTER XXXV. - - COST OF A HOUSE.--SCHEDULES OF COSTS.--WHAT GOES INTO A - HOUSE.--SCHEDULE "B."--COST DETAILS 264-269 - - CHAPTER XXXVI. - - VARYING BUILDING VALUES.--COST OF APPURTENANCES.--PRICES - OF LABOR AND MATERIAL ON WHICH ESTIMATES ARE BASED. 270-274 - - - _BUSINESS POINTS IN BUILDING._ - - CHAPTER XXXVII. - - LOW-COST HOUSES.--METHODS OF MAKING CONTRACTS.--ARCHITECTS' - ESTIMATES.--BUILDING BY THE DAY.--THE SAFEST PLAN.--GUARDING - AGAINST LIENS 277-287 - - - _HOW TO SECURE A HOME._ - - CHAPTER XXXVIII. - - MONTHLY PAYMENTS.--CALCULATIONS ON A LONG-TIME PLAN.--PURCHASE - ON A RENTAL BASIS.--HOW IT MAY BE WORKED - OUT 291-294 - - CHAPTER XXXIX. - - BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS.--WHY DIVIDENDS ARE LARGE AND INTEREST - LOW.--BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS AND SAVINGS BANKS.--ASSOCIATION - SECURITIES.--BUILDING-ASSOCIATION METHODS.--DIFFERENT - PLANS.--BORROWING FROM A BUILDING ASSOCIATION.--A - BUILDING-ASSOCIATION REPORT 295-311 - - CHAPTER XL. - - PURCHASE OF A LOT.--THE BEST THE CHEAPEST.--A GOOD LOT - AS A BASIS OF SECURITY.--THE BASIS OF VALUE IS THE - RENTAL 312-316 - - - - -THE ARCHITECT AND THE HOUSEWIFE. - - - - -CONVENIENT HOUSES. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - THE HOUSEKEEPER AND THE ARCHITECT.--FLOOR-PLANS AS RELATED TO GOOD - HOUSEKEEPING.--LABOR-SAVING DEVICES.--ECONOMY AND GOOD - CONSTRUCTION.--COMPACT HOUSES NOT NECESSARILY CROWDED.--WOOD-WORK - THAT IS READILY CLEANED. - - -There is a definite relation between the work of the housekeeper and -that of the architect. This is the text of this book. It is a part of -the business of the architect to do what he can to make housekeeping -easy. He can do a great deal. He should understand the principles and -practice of good housekeeping. This knowledge is something which cannot -be derived from the architectural schools or offices; it must come from -a home. The public press of the country has had a great deal to say -about the artistic qualities of domestic architecture, a great deal to -say about house decoration, and, altogether, has furnished much valuable -matter. Little, however, has been said as to the relation of -architecture to good housekeeping. The artistic element should not be -neglected. There must also be considered the question of convenient -arrangement, economy and ease, for the housekeeper. - -Washing dishes is disagreeable work, but the architect can do his part -toward making it easier. If we take a conglomerate mass of china, -knives, forks, and spoons, pots, pans, and kettles, and bring them -together on one small kitchen table, which has a dish-pan on one end and -a wooden water-bucket at the back, with a scarcity of everything to -facilitate the progress of the work, we have a condition quite different -from that wherein there is a roomy sink with a table on each side of it, -and plenty of hot and cold water above. An architect may plan a kitchen -so that all of these conveniences are possible. He may plan it so they -are impossible. - -The floor-plan of a house has a definite relation to house keeping -requirements, which is not fully appreciated. The difference between a -good floor-plan and a poor one may make the difference of three or four -tons of coal in the heating of a house during the winter. It may -influence the keeping of a servant, the wages to be paid, or may control -the necessity for one or more than one. It makes more difference to a -man who lives in a house that costs two thousand dollars or three -thousand dollars, as to whether he burns seven or ten tons of coal in -warming it, than it does to the man who lives in a ten-thousand-dollar -or twelve-thousand-dollar house as to whether he burns fourteen or -twenty tons. The cost of fuel is of more importance to a man of moderate -means than to one of wealth. Then in the matter of service: it is -difficult to keep a good servant in a bad kitchen, or in a badly planned -house where there is a vast amount of sweeping and other work to be done -every day. Those who plan factories and mills arrange them with -reference to the saving of labor. The idea in saving labor is to save -money. - -One can build a better house for a given sum of money at this time than -ever before. The real reason for this is to be found outside the fact -that material and labor are cheaper now than they have been in the past. -It is because of the thought that is put into the planning and arranging -of dwellings. It is the thought that saves the money. It adds external -and internal attractiveness, convenience, labor-saving devices, and -arrangements. Thought helps to make housekeeping easier. - -Economical housekeeping can be most readily carried on in a compact -house. To say that a house is compact does not necessarily imply that it -is crowded, or that any of the conditions of comfort are neglected. If -we avoid waste space, such as is frequently assigned to large halls and -passages, we merely take away something that is not needed. - -It frequently happens that a man and his wife go through life with the -hope of building a better house "some day." They are economical; they -live carefully; they live in a small house; they are crowded. At last, -by dint of hard work and careful management, enough money is accumulated -to build the new home. This is the great event which has been thought -about for so many years. - -The idea in building this house is invariably to get something as -different from the old house as possible. It was square; the new -building must be irregular. It had no front hall; the new house must -have a large one. There were no grates in any of the rooms; in the new -house there must be one in each. In the old building the rooms were very -small; in the new house they must be very large. There was no porch -before; now there must be one running across the front and along one -side of the house. Altogether, the idea of the old house and that of the -new are in direct opposition to each other. In one instance they were -crowded; in the other they have plenty of room. There can be no doubt -about the abundance of room. - -The building is finished; they move into it. Almost the first person to -leave it is the servant whom they had in the old house. She sees the -amount of work which she will have to do. It was easy enough to sweep -the old house, with its small, compact plan. Housekeeping was -relatively a small matter; but with the habits of economy, which -rendered the new home possible, they will not employ additional help. -The work which is left over by the servant falls to the mistress. -Strange as it may appear under such circumstances, it takes the mistress -a long time to find the cause of the trouble. It is the house. It was -planned with an entire disregard for the work which was to be done. It -had not been thought of. The idea was merely to get something which was -different from the disagreeable features of the old home. They thought -that everything would be easier and pleasanter and more agreeable in -every way. The only trouble with the old home was that they were too -much crowded. In the new they are not, but have an impossible amount of -work to do every day. The difference between what they wish to do and -what is done, is represented by fretfulness in addition to the natural -weariness at the end of the day. - -What has this to do with architecture and economical house-building? -Simply this. The house which is economically planned is economical as to -money, carpets, sweeping, and strength. The architect may do a great -deal for housekeepers by keeping this thought in mind. - -To recur to the idea of economical house-building in a direct sense, it -may be borne in mind that economy and good construction go hand in hand; -that none of the conditions of permanency are sacrificed for the sake of -cheapness. Of two houses which cost the same, one may be far more -convenient and roomy by an avoidance of waste space and unnecessary -material. Evidently one flue-stack will cost less than four. Therefore, -if a house can be constructed which has only one flue-stack, it will -cost less than one which has four; but the demands of the housekeeper, -and those who live in the house, are that the one stack afford the -conveniences of four. People do not like compromises in house-building, -especially when they are building a home. The compromises come easier -when one is planning property for rental. Evidently a house in which -one-fifth of the floor space is given up to halls is more expensive than -one which contains a smaller proportion of such space. According as one -is able to diminish the amount of passage room, and yet meet all of the -conditions of good and economical house-keeping, he can reduce the cost -of the house as to its building, its furnishing, and the amount of labor -required in caring for it. Thus economy in construction, and convenience -and ease in general housekeeping movements, go hand in hand. Parallel -illustrations might be carried forward, so as to include each detail of -the house. - -The architect may do a great deal for the housekeeper by making his -mouldings and interior wood-work so that they will not catch dust, and -can be readily cleaned. Some of our friends, who have studied the -artistic qualities of house-building to the exclusion of all other -considerations, will say that a regard for housekeeping requirements, in -the matter of interior decorations and construction, is placing too -great a limit upon their work. They will say that beauty and general -artistic qualities are not always consonant with the means which will -make easy housekeeping,--that they are limited by such considerations. -This need not be so; it is simply a question of ingenuity and -thoughtfulness. One may be careless of utility, and make very beautiful -things. Another may be thoughtful and careful as to housekeeping -requirements, and design something quite as beautiful and attractive as -the former. - -In the above statements will be found the guiding principles which -affect all of the work of this book. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - HOUSEKEEPING OPERATIONS.--THE WORK OF THE HOUSEKEEPER.--THE AVERAGE - HOUSEWORK OF A WEEK.--THE ARCHITECT'S LESSON THEREFROM. - - -With the architect a house has been too often considered as something to -be looked at. No one is disposed to criticise an architect for making -houses pretty and attractive. It is true, however, that many houses are -nothing more than pretty; they are not convenient. They are not built -with a regard to the requirements of housekeeping. A lady once said to -the writer, that an architect would never live up to his opportunities -until he had associated himself with a housekeeper, who would be strong -enough, in her control over him, to see that the housekeeping conditions -and conveniences were kept constantly in mind. - -In order fully to reach the housekeeping idea, it will be convenient to -consider in detail what is meant by housekeeping. Primarily, a house is -a place in which to eat and sleep. The present requirements of comfort -and luxury suggest that all should not eat and sleep in the same room. -Originally this was the case. The primitive man needed only a hut or a -cave, or the protection of a rude shed. Later on, he was satisfied with -a hut with one or two rooms. If the weather was cold, the occupants -would huddle around the fire, and eat and sleep without regard to other -surroundings. A bath in cold weather was unnecessary. During the summer -this was regarded more as a matter of recreation than of necessity. A -neighboring stream served the purpose of more modern arrangements. -Housekeeping operations under such conditions were light indeed. - -There are many homes of this kind in America to-day. If we take the case -of our Indians, we find that the squaws have time for much else than the -absolute duties of camp-life and the care of children. There is much -other labor which falls to their lot, house-work being regarded, as it -is, insignificant. This is one extreme. There are various gradations -which come with the instincts of a higher civilization. Education, and -other conditions which go with it, increase housekeeping requirements, -and thus far have not furnished to the majority compensating conditions -in labor-saving devices. At the present time, the natural and affected -requirements of housekeeping make the life of many a woman one of the -extremest drudgery and hardship. Her condition is almost that of a -slave; and this at a time when she is surrounded by many of the elements -of a higher civilization. Her children and those around her frequently -live under the shadow of her uncomfortable condition. The Indian's home, -in the rest and peace which it affords, is often preferable. This -condition is brought about by the increasing requirements upon the -housekeeper, without the presence of other compensating conditions. - -Assuming that an architect may do something to make the care of a house -lighter, it remains to call attention to the modern requirements of a -housekeeper, with a view of simplifying her work. Let us watch her work -for a week; we will begin on Monday morning during the month of January, -and assume that there is one servant in the house to help,--bearing in -mind, at the same time, that it often happens that the work which is -here outlined is done by the housekeeper herself, with possibly only the -help of a wash-woman. First, the house is to be warmed, the kitchen fire -to be kindled, the living-rooms to be swept and dusted, the washing to -be started, the children to be dressed, breakfast to be cooked and put -on the table, and, in many cases, all of this done before seven o'clock. -The serving of breakfast is no small task to the housekeeper. The coffee -is to be poured, food prepared for the children, and many other things -done which no man can specify. As soon as breakfast is over the men are -out of the house, but not usually before making more than one demand -upon the time of the housekeeper. Then the dishes are to be washed, and -the children made ready and started to school. Next, the grocery and -butcher supplies must be cared for. Possibly they are ordered from the -boy who calls at the door. In some instances a trip for this purpose is -required. Next, the dining-room must be arranged, the dishes put in -place, the chamber-work attended to, beds made, children's things put -away, sweeping done, slops disposed of, fires looked after. Some time or -in some way the clothes worn by the children on Sunday must be -especially looked after, stitches taken, a little darn here and there, -and then put away. During this time there may be the demands of one or -more babies to be met. In this there is no compromise. - -With the completion of other work dinner time is approaching, for, with -the majority, this is a noon meal. The cooking must be done, and yet -nothing else must be allowed to lag. The children in their confusion are -home from school. Then dinner. Every one is in a hurry to get away. The -children are sure they are going to be late. There is more work for them -and the men, and then they are gone. Dinner dishes are washed, and the -laundry work continues. The afternoon is little different from the -morning; there is a little less rush and confusion, but a continuance of -regular work. Before supper the evening supply of fuel must be provided. -In the mean time the children are home from school with their demands. -Now supper must be in mind. Where there are children in the house, this -is one of the most trying times of the day. They are tired, hungry, and -sleepy. Supper is over. The children go to bed at intervals during the -evening. The men have a place by the fire. The housekeeper often feels -it incumbent upon her to mend, darn, or sew, if no heavier work presents -itself. - -Tuesday morning calls for a repetition of the former day's work, with -ironing substituted for washing. There is the carrying-out of ashes and -the bringing-in of coal, and the same routine during the day. On the -part of the housekeeper regular sewing-work is taken up as opportunity -presents, and possibly calls are made or received. Wednesday, the same. -Thursday, the servant, if one is kept, is out for the afternoon. Other -regular work must progress. Compromises are not thought of. Friday is -general sweeping-day, in which everything is thoroughly gone over. The -housekeeper must find time to go down street one or more times during -the week, for the purpose of doing necessary shopping. Saturday brings -its scrubbing and cleaning. During the week must come the -window-washing, cleaning of silver, baking, and many things besides. - -Sunday is often the hardest day of all; the children require especial -care. There is church in the morning, Sunday school in the afternoon, -and, in many cases, church at night. In the mean while the children are -on hand all the time. Where is the man who will say that his business -life is as exacting or as harassing as the work which is here outlined? - -In the pages which follow it is the intention to bear the housekeeper -and her requirements in mind, and to suggest what is properly due her in -the way of labor-saving devices, with a view to facilitate the manifold -operations of housekeeping. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - MODERN CONVENIENCES.--A LITTLE HISTORY.--PLANS THAT MAKE EXTRA - WORK.--MODERN CONVENIENCES ENUMERATED. - - -Most of the conveniences of housekeeping are modern. It is only within -the past few years that the demands of the housekeeper for helps or aids -in making her work easier were thought worth considering. Even now we -occasionally meet men who think that anything that was good enough for -their mothers is good enough for their wives. We have in mind a farmer -who, during fifteen years, purchased three large farms. He buried a wife -for every farm. Their death was the result of more than slavish work. -The disposition which leads in this direction often continues after the -time when economy does not demand close living. - -The man who moves west to a new country cannot pay for many of the -modern conveniences. The demand for them is not great. Such a man -usually builds a house of two or three rooms. The family cook and eat in -the kitchen; they sit there between meals. The other rooms are for beds. -There is not a great deal of house-work to be done in a house of this -kind. The trouble comes when the pioneer becomes wealthier, and builds a -large house "in town" or on the farm. Possibly his wife or daughters do -the work as they did in the smaller house. If not, it is done by one -servant. The work in this house is a great deal harder. There is a great -deal more of it than there was in the two or three room house, which was -built during their earlier life. In the former house, if they had -coffee, it was poured from the pot in which it was made directly into -the cups which were on the table. The meat was taken from the skillet in -which it was cooked and put into the plates of those who ate it. If they -had pancakes, the wife would sit with her back near the stove, where she -could easily reach the griddle to grease it and turn the cakes while she -was eating her meal. There was no formal dessert. The pie was eaten from -the same plates as the rest of the food. There were no napkins; often, -no tablecloth. - -It did not take long to wash the dishes after a meal of this kind--there -were not many of them. In from fifteen to twenty-five minutes after the -meal was over, the wife could be seen sitting by the kitchen stove, -sewing or knitting. The pans and the kettles were out of the way, and -the kitchen was turned into a sitting-room. If the weather was cold, the -door into the bedroom was open; the whole house was warm and -comfortable. Wood was plenty and cheap. - -This woman's troubles began when her husband, by dint of hard work and -close economy, found himself in a position to gratify his pride in his -accumulated wealth by building a new house. It was a big white house -with green blinds. The stories were twelve or thirteen feet high; a -large hall ran through the centre; the kitchen had nothing in it but -doors and windows and a stove-hole; there was no sink, no conveniences -of any kind. They now had a separate dining and sitting room, and an -awful parlor with brussels carpet on it, which had red and green flowers -all over it. The bedrooms were upstairs. They were all large; wood-work -painted white. In the winter they were cold. The old habits of economy -which made this house possible had so fixed themselves upon the -occupants that they would not build a fire in the bedrooms. They said -that they "didn't think it healthy to sleep in a warm room." - -People go to see Mrs. Green in her new house. They go through and look -at it, and say, "Oh, how nice." But they find a tired woman. She doesn't -sit down to sew or knit in a few minutes after the meal is over, as she -used to. She is at work all the time. The children must have clothes to -fit the house. There is more sweeping and dusting to do; there are more -dishes to wash; there is more of everything to do. Still, she came into -the new house expecting to find things different and easier than they -were before. - -The modern conveniences are those arrangements and appliances which make -it possible for people to live comfortably in a larger house, without -seriously increasing the cares which they had in a smaller one. In the -old house of two or three rooms the mother would bathe the children once -a week in a tub by the kitchen fire. The tub would be dragged out the -door, which was not very high above the ground, and the water emptied -into the yard. In the new house it is different. The water is carried -from the pump in the back yard, and from the kitchen stove, upstairs -into one of the rooms. Then it has to be carried down again, emptied -into the alley or the yard. The living habits are all changed without -the compensating conveniences which naturally belong to them. It is -probable that Mrs. Green keeps a "girl," but even then she has -infinitely more work to do than ever belonged to the old home. She -cannot understand it. She has a new house and a girl, and yet she is -always tired. - -Most of the houses in the newer cities and towns are, in a measure, -similar to this. Nearly every one attempts to live up to the mark set by -those who have all of the appliances of modern housekeeping. Coal and -water have to be carried all over the house. Slops and ashes have to be -carried downstairs and out of the building. - -By attracting attention to the inconveniences of housekeeping, we may -see and understand the full meaning of the term "modern conveniences." -There is a natural call for dish-washing arrangements to take the place -of the square table, with the dish-pan, the tea-kettle, and the -water-bucket. In its place, we have at one side of the kitchen, a sink, -with cocks for hot and cold water immediately over it. The tables and -drain-board are arranged to simplify the operations of dish-washing. The -water, instead of being carried to the yard or alley, finds its way -naturally into the drain through the sink. Modern laundry arrangements -make it unnecessary to carry great tubs of water outside, or to delay -wash-day on account of the weather, or to bring in the frozen clothes -during the cold winter days. The bath-room, with the tub, the -water-closet, and the wash-stand, is on the second floor. This saves a -great deal of work. The water does not have to be carried upstairs nor -the slops down. There is hot and cold water within easy reach of all the -rooms. Often it happens that there are stationary wash-stands in the -various bedrooms, though this is only usual in the most expensive -houses. - -The amount of work which a furnace saves is not readily estimated. It -also saves money. Others of the modern conveniences are "places to put -things;" large closets in the bedrooms, well supplied with drawers, -shelves, and hooks; a general closet on the upper floor, which is -accessible from all of the rooms, for bedding and other articles of -common use; a ventilated closet in the bath-room, in which soiled linen -may be put without contaminating the atmosphere. There should be a -closet or place on the second floor for brooms, dust-pans, and dusters. -Where there is no particular place for these articles, the housekeeper -or the servant has to use time in searching, or in going up and down -stairs. Anything which saves labor may be regarded as a modern -convenience. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - MODERN ARCHITECTS AND THE HOUSEKEEPER.--MISPLACED HOUSES.--OLD - COLONIAL POVERTY IN MODERN COLONIAL HOUSES.--AFFECTATION IN - DESIGN.--NATURAL DEVELOPMENT OF AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE.--AMERICAN - ARCHITECTURE AND AMERICAN HOMES. - - -No one ever heard of the matter of house-planning being discussed in a -convention of architects. Their reports will show that a great many -subjects are handled, but none so near home as this. Sometimes there is -an effort to discover that America has a style of architecture peculiar -to itself. When such a thing becomes true, the effort to find it will -not be necessary. An American architecture will have its growth in -American necessities, and not through the blind copying of foreign -styles and architecture. Nor to have an American style does it -necessarily mean that we should ignore foreign precedent. It means that -we should consider foreign architecture intelligently. Everything that -is good should be adopted, no matter whence it comes. Those of us who -see what is going on in the architectural world frequently notice -English houses designed and built for those who live in the cold -Northwest. In many of them the broad, English casement windows and -general style of architecture, which is suited to the gloomy light and -the mild temperature of Great Britain, is placed in the bright, cold -climate of the Northwest. Nothing could be more out of place; it is an -affectation, an exhibition of bad taste and poor sense. The cold -Northwest, with its bright, clear atmosphere, presents its own -architectural conditions. The work of blind copyists, those who have so -strong a regard for precedent, is ridiculous. In one of the Eastern -magazines there was an illustration showing what purported to be an old -colonial cottage, situated possibly at Newport. The architect had copied -the old colonial details, the old colonial forms, which were very nice, -but he had also copied an idea which had its outgrowth in extreme -poverty. He had placed a rain barrel at the side of the house, and had -set it up on a rustic-looking bench or support, all of which was very -ridiculous. This had been done in an old colonial house, and had its -origin in old colonial poverty. Now, this architect, in his respect for -that which was past, copied the faults, the inconveniences, and -arrangements which belonged to those earlier times. A course of this -kind, carried out to its fullest extent, would lead us to barbarism. In -the same magazine was another house which was designed with great -respect for precedent. In it was a front door which was divided about -half-way up, so that the lower part might be shut and the upper part -opened. Houses have been seen where something of this kind was -reasonable, where it had its advantages. There are many places in this -country where a door of this kind is almost a necessity; but it isn't on -the seashore. If one has a house in the country, or in a small country -town, where the horses and pigs, geese, chickens, and other animals, are -allowed to roam about in the front yards, a door of this kind has its -uses. In the summer time the upper part can be thrown back and the lower -part closed, so that the most a horse can do in the way of getting into -the house is to stick his head over the top rail and look in. In the -country mills doors of this kind have a very proper and apt name; they -are called pig-doors. They keep the pigs off the mill floor, and, at the -same time, allow the light and air to come from above. But there is no -necessity for a pig-door at Newport or Long Branch, or other seaside -resort. Their use is a silly affectation. There is no beauty in them. -There is no convenience which would lead to their use. - -It is performances such as the above which retard the natural -development of American architecture. American architecture will be -simply carrying out, in an architectural way, the requirements of the -American people in their buildings. From their homes the march of -progress will be through the kitchens, pantries, and dining-rooms. It -will unite with the parlor and sitting-room ideas, which have been more -clearly worked out. The exterior will be formed in a natural way by the -requirements of the interior, and by the variations of climate, and it -will be decorated in a rational, artistic manner. We will not hamper the -interior by the adoption of doors and windows which possibly belonged in -a cathedral of the twelfth or thirteenth century, or the richer details -of the later time, which had their special uses and forms as the -development of the necessity and requirements of that particular period. -The doors and windows of the nineteenth century should have their own -special forms and positions. They should be decorated with a true regard -for precedent so long as precedent does not influence the arrangements -suited to modern times. The American style of architecture will not be -developed through grand public buildings and enormous cathedrals, or -expensive dwellings. - -In this country every one is imbued with the idea of having a home of -his own, and he desires to have it nice, convenient, and attractive. The -average home is in a small, inexpensive house. The proper construction -of these buildings, their arrangement with reference to their -housekeeping requirements, their tasteful external designs considered in -a rational way, will develop American architecture. It will be the -expression of American wants in a natural, artistic spirit. - - - - -A JOURNEY THROUGH THE HOUSE. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - JOURNEY THROUGH THE HOUSE.--PORCH.--VESTIBULE.--HALL.--LONG HALLS - AND SQUARE HALLS.--THE HALL THAT IS A ROOM.--RECEPTION - HALL.--PARLOR.--SITTING-ROOM.--DINING-ROOM. - - -In this section of the book we will make a journey through the house, -stopping at various points of interest long enough to give general -consideration to the details. From the principles herein derived, the -plans subsequently given are constructed. - -Every house should have a front porch. It should be wide,--if possible, -eight feet, that one may sit at a distance from the railing and afford a -space for others to pass behind. The porch is a protection to the front -part of the house from the sun, wind, and, partially, from the cold. -Nothing can be pleasanter than to sit on a shady porch during the warm -part of the day or in the evening. It is an auxiliary to the vestibule. - -The front door should be wide--three or three and a half feet. Double -doors look very nice from the outside, but they are not as convenient or -as easily handled as the single door. The door-bell should be at the -right-hand side. The threshold should be elevated from three to six and -a half inches above the porch floor. - - -VESTIBULE. - -In the plans that are given, various arrangements of vestibules are -shown. In a few instances, direct entrances into the hall and -reception-room are indicated, but such an entrance is not as desirable -as where there is a vestibule. The arrangement of a vestibule for -hat-rack, umbrella-stand, and other conveniences, changes the hall into -an available room. Take, for instance, plan No. 16, page 153. At the -right, as one enters, is a little closet; in it are hooks. At one side -is an umbrella-stand; on the floor is a place for overshoes. Here one -may arrange himself before going into the hall or reception-room. This -is altogether better than having to pass across to one side of the hall -or room, in order to find a place to deposit overshoes, wraps, -umbrellas, etc. It saves work. If this vestibule have a hard-wood floor, -and on it is placed a rug, one may stand there and divest himself of -that which he would not carry into the house, and go into the room in -good order, leaving the muddy overshoes, and the possible dampness of -his umbrella and overcoat, behind him. This arrangement saves work; mud -is not carried into the room. It is a very simple matter to care for the -vestibule; the rug on the floor may be taken to the outside, and the -deposit of mud and dust readily removed. It is well to have a small -mirror at the side, or in the rack. The plan mentioned is merely -suggestive, and does not apply to all houses. By looking through the -plans given, various arrangements may be seen. In some of them there is -no vestibule. Not all housekeepers want the same arrangement. Again, -others do not care to pay for a vestibule. In other instances, the hall -is too small to admit of one. As said before, a good vestibule changes -the hall into a room. It makes a reception-hall tolerable, because it is -not necessary to deposit there many things which should have another -location. A vestibule does not properly serve its purpose where there is -no room or arrangement for depositing wraps, etc. The closet part of the -vestibule, shown in the cut, can, perhaps, be omitted, and hooks -arranged around the wall sides. A curtain could be hung across the space -occupied by the closet door: however, all these details are matters of -taste and disposition. In the opening between the hall and vestibule may -be placed tapestry curtains; these are sufficient storm protectors from -the outside door, especially if the hall register is placed near it. No -one who has not tried it, can realize the amount of protection from the -weather that is afforded by a heavy curtain. It is not necessary or -desirable that a door be placed in the opening from the vestibule to the -hall. - - -HALL. - -This part of the house may be hall, reception-hall, or room. It is a -hall or passage frequently, and not provided with a vestibule. It may be -a hall from its shape; it may be a room for the same reason. It may be -of no use as a room, if the stairway is improperly placed. The house -arranged with a long, narrow hall, having the stairway at the side, is -essentially wasteful of room. Such hall space is usually dark and gloomy -as well as crowded. A hall eight feet wide and twenty feet long, -contains one hundred and sixty square feet of floor-surface, though only -a limited portion of it is available, on account of the shape of the -space which remains after the stairway is placed. A hall twelve by -thirteen feet contains one hundred and fifty-six square feet, but a -great deal more available room. The space not occupied by the stairway -is in better shape. A hall of this shape partakes of the nature of a -room, and may be used as such. In the plan referred to a window-seat is -shown. This window-seat may be used as a seat in warm weather, and, if -the front is in the proper direction, as a conservatory in the winter. -There are many such arrangements as this shown in the book. - -The hall, in most of the plans, is a key to the whole arrangement. It -has been a common, objectionable practice during the past few years to -build houses of moderate cost, so that the hall is along one side with -its entrance to the front, and the parlor next to it; back of the parlor -is the sitting-room, and the hall opens into the dining-room; back of -the dining-room is the kitchen, and so on to the extreme rear with -summer-kitchen, pantry, etc. This makes a long house with only one room -in front on the first floor, and one chamber and alcove facing the -street on the second. Thus the hall serves only as a passage-way. The -living-room has no front view. To obviate this, the halls in the plans, -that are considered with most favor, are arranged to be used as rooms, -and the vestibules are built so that such a thing is possible. If the -hall is to be used as a vestibule, the hat-rack and other arrangements -for hanging wraps, and the umbrella-stand, etc., are placed as near the -front as possible. Where this is not done there must necessarily be a -track from the front to the back, as a mark of travel. - -The stairway may start at one side, and should lead towards the centre -of the house. The nearer it can be started to the rear of the hall, the -better; this gives more room in front. Sometimes the stairway is started -immediately in the rear of the reception-hall, or from an alcove space -at one side; these are good arrangements, depending, of course, upon -other conditions. Upon one side, or in the rear, should be placed a -grate. Nothing can be pleasanter when coming in from a disagreeable -outside than an open-grate fire; this needs no argument. Under the -stairway, or in some convenient nook, it is well to have a lavatory. The -hall should be arranged as a centre from which to pass to the parlor, -living-room, and dining-room. It is important to consider in this -connection that the hall, and the stairway in it, should be placed so -that the stair-landing above is in the centre of the house. Thus we have -in the centre of the building only a small hall as a starting-point; -hence less waste room. When the stairway lands near the front wall on -the second floor, a passage must be provided to the rear of the house. -Where the landing is in the centre, we have only to pass into rooms -without extra steps through long halls. For example, see plan No. 1, -page 110. - -Not every one cares to use the front hall as a reception-room. There is -certainly no objection to naming and using it otherwise. - - -RECEPTION-HALL, PARLOR, AND SITTING-ROOM. - -During recent years there is more of a disposition to live all over the -house; one reason for this is the improved heating arrangements. The -terms sitting-room, parlor, reception-room, mean less in a distinctive -sense, and are used largely for the purpose of classification. We will -consider the parlor and the sitting-room in the same connection. The -parlor has lost the awful stiffness of times past. It is now a -reception-room. - -In a house where there is a reception-hall in front, and the -sitting-room to one side, both having a distinct front view, as is shown -in many of the plans, a lady may occupy the front room and have her -children and work around her, if desirable. A caller may be received in -the reception-room; these, however, are matters of individual -preference. The vestibule may be planned so that it will have an -entrance to both reception-room and sitting-room. - -In some instances the arrangement of sitting-room and reception-hall are -reversed. The hall is the sitting-room, and the other room the parlor. -If doors are used between hall and sitting-room, they should be -sliding; the effect is better, and the separation of the rooms as -complete as necessary. Such doors should always be hung from the top. -The sitting-room should certainly be as good a room as any in the house; -as well located. There should be a closet on the first floor, and, if -possible, it should communicate with this room; if not that, with the -dining-room or reception-hall next to it. Certainly the sitting-room -should always be provided with a grate. - -A window-seat in the hall, parlor, reception, or other room, is really a -great addition in more ways than one. It is not only attractive, but it -adds to the availability of a room. Where there is space for three or -four people to sit, in case of necessity, it is like seating that number -of people outside of the room. They are comfortable, and the room has -that much added to its seating capacity. A bay window arranged in this -way is pleasant indeed. - -Wall space is of great importance in these rooms. In planning a house, -the piano, pictures, lounges, book-shelves, book-cases, bric-a-brac, -etc., should be in mind. In a house of moderate size, it is, ordinarily, -not necessary that the reception-hall, parlor, or sitting-room should be -wider than thirteen and a half feet, and from fifteen to eighteen feet -in length. However, this is not wide enough for those who entertain -largely. A room thirteen and a half feet, with much furniture in it, is -not wide enough for dancing. - -A house arranged with a reception-hall, parlor, sitting-room, -dining-room, etc., is used when it is desired to entertain a great deal; -but for those who are living economically, whose means are limited, one -of these rooms may be omitted. In many of the modern houses the number -of rooms on the first floor has been decreased and their size increased. -Oftentimes there is a reception-hall, a small library, and a -dining-room only, as belonging to the living part of the house on the -first floor. An arrangement of this kind belongs more particularly to a -house which is occupied during only a part of the year; say as summer -cottages in the North, and winter houses in the South. Modern ways of -living make a larger number of rooms less desirable. - -When it is possible, it is pleasant to have a little room off from the -library as a study, or for a doctor as a reception-room or office. Where -one does work at home, it is advantageous to have a private room that -insures isolation, be it never so small. Often the library, so called in -an ordinary sense, is not a library at all. There may be a few books in -it, but it is used as a sitting-room or passage, and has no distinct -necessity or use. - -Additional rooms require more work than the same amount of floor space -in a less number of rooms. The addition of rooms multiplies corners, -windows, doors, etc., and adds more cost and labor, than does mere -additional space. The availability of a room is not always dependent -upon its size. A good deal depends upon the arrangement of wall space. A -room may be large and still have no room for the furniture that is to go -into it. It may be small and still have room enough. - - -DINING-ROOM. - -A good width for a dining-room is thirteen feet. Where one can afford -it, it should be from fifteen to twenty feet in length; larger than this -is a luxury. Its location, for the most part, is back of the -sitting-room or hall. A grate in the dining-room is not altogether -desirable; it is always at somebody's back. Again, a grate does not heat -a room uniformly. It is very common to provide sliding-doors to connect -the dining-room with other parts of the house, even with the parlor; but -they are not the best kind to use. Sound and the odors of the food are -more readily communicated through sliding-doors than others. For that -reason they should not be used. A large, single door, three and a half -feet wide, is preferable, though it does not always give the desired -opening. Generally speaking, it is easier to provide wall space when -planning a dining-room than in any of the other rooms in the house. A -large number of windows is not necessary, and one of them can be placed -high, and thus afford space for a sideboard. This sideboard should be -placed at the end of the room nearest the entrance to the kitchen and -china-closet, where such is used. The sideboard has various uses, -according to the plans of the housekeeper. In some cases it is merely a -place to display dainty china and other table furniture. Below are -places for linen and table cutlery. In other cases, the sideboard is -used as a buffet; as a place from which to serve the food. Sometimes -this is carried to the extremest degree, and includes the carving, and -the serving of that which goes with the meats. - -It was very common in times past to use a slide connecting kitchen and -dining-room. A passage is much better. The slide is worse than a door in -communicating sounds and odors. In some of the plans in this book, doors -are shown opening directly into the kitchen. This is done under protest; -the owner of the house would have it so. The sideboard may be built as a -part of the house. This is well enough when the question of cost is not -important. - -From the dining-room we will pass to the kitchen. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - KITCHENS.--THE KITCHEN A WORKSHOP.--WORK TO BE DONE IN A - KITCHEN.--A PLAN.--FITTINGS.--DISH-WASHING CONVENIENCES.--SINK AND - TABLES.--CHINA-CLOSET.--PANTRY.--COMBINATION PANTRY.--PANTRY - FITTINGS.--WORK IN A PANTRY.--A DOUGH-BOARD.--FLOUR-BIN.--PANTRY - STORES.--CUPBOARD.--REFRIGERATOR ARRANGEMENTS.--PANTRY UTENSILS.--A - DRY-BOX.--SOAP-BOX.--VENTILATION OF KITCHEN.--GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF - KITCHEN PLANNING. - - -The kitchen existed in its state of greatest cleanliness and order a -good many years ago in New England, where it was largely used as a -sitting and dining room. As people became more prosperous, they moved -out of the kitchen; they had a separate sitting-room. It was then that -the kitchen began to decline. After this it was often literally as well -as figuratively separated from the living part of the house. - -The public has not suffered through lack of information on cookery and -general housekeeping topics. Little has been said, however, about the -house itself, with regard to its arrangements for facilitating the -manifold operations of housekeeping. The subject is a broad one, and may -be treated with some respect to detail. As the heart of the house, the -kitchen may be given serious consideration. - -In the modern house the kitchen is merely the place where the food is -prepared for the table. The controlling idea and its arrangements should -be to afford facilities for doing the work with as little labor as -possible. - -The kitchen is the workshop of the house. It should be arranged and -planned according to the same general principles as any other workshop. -A manufacturer arranges his foundry, his mill, or his printing-house, -with reference to the saving of labor, for the purpose of saving money. -When we save labor in a kitchen, we save the energy of the housekeeper, -and, possibly, money. - -An article on this subject was probably never written that did not -pretend to describe the "model kitchen." It is safe to say that no such -kitchen was regarded as "model" by all readers. A model kitchen is -something which is out of reason. No two housekeepers have the same -requirements. Housekeeping practice varies greatly. Again, the kitchen -that can be built to one floor-plan cannot be built to another. In -describing a kitchen, it is in mind to set forth certain general -principles for the benefit of those interested. - -There is little difference between the requirements of a kitchen for a -house of moderate cost and an expensive house. Work of the same general -character is done in every kitchen. The conveniences are more a matter -of thought than of money. Elaborate details add much to the cost, but -little to the convenience. There is little or no difference between the -cost of a well-planned kitchen and one which is poorly planned. - -To state the case broadly, a kitchen should be arranged solely with -reference to the work which is to be done in it: the cooking, -dish-washing, the care of the kitchen itself, and possibly the laundry -work. This latter work should be removed from the kitchen--in any event, -the washing should be done elsewhere--when it is at all possible. The -steam and odor from the washing, which not only fill the kitchen but -permeate the house, are enough to render whatever food there is in the -kitchen unfit for use. It is altogether possible to arrange in the -cellar of any house that is being built, and in many that are already -built, at a trifling cost, a laundry in which the washing and ironing -may be comfortably done. Of course this does not contemplate set tubs; -but set tubs are not found in houses where the washing and ironing are -done in the kitchen, and it is possible to do this work both well and -easily without their use. There is little or no objection to doing the -ironing in a well-ventilated kitchen. It is clean work, and while doing -it the servant may attend to any cooking which is necessary, and see -that the other work of the house moves forward. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2.] - -The kitchen the plan of which is here given (Fig. 2) has been in use for -three years under the varying conditions of one or two servants, and at -times none at all. These are the conditions under which most -housekeepers operate. There have been no emergencies in which the -kitchen and pantries have not proven themselves ample, and none in which -the housekeeper thought that they were too large and complicated. It is -as necessary in houses where the means for maintenance is simply -moderate, that a kitchen should not be too large as that it should -afford ample facilities for accomplishing any work which may be done. - -The kitchen itself is thirteen and one-half by fourteen and one-half -feet. In it are placed the range, tables, sink, drain-board, etc., and -the kitchen safe. The room has been found large enough for the work -which is to be done there, and not so large that the tables, range, and -safe are so far apart that time and strength are wasted moving from one -to another. The kitchen has one large window in it, which is three feet -from the floor. This permits the placing of a table, ironing-board, or -chair under it, and thus gives additional wall space. There are two -windows in the pantry, and a draught is secured through them, the -kitchen window, and the transom over the door. The door is glazed. - -The most disagreeable work of a kitchen, and that which takes much time, -is the dish-washing. It is possible to make this work lighter and -pleasanter than is usual. The necessary conditions are plenty of water, -hot and cold, a place where the dishes will drain themselves, an -abundance of table room for them both before and after washing. In the -kitchen given the sink is placed next the kitchen flue. This gives a -place for the pipe duct next the warm bricks, which prevent freezing -even in severe cold weather. During the three years in which this -kitchen has been in use they have never frozen, even when the -temperature was twenty degrees below zero. The exact construction of -this kitchen pipe-duct and other kitchen wood-work is given elsewhere. -The range, which is usually next the flue, is, in this instance, placed -at some distance from it. There is no reason why this should not be -done, as it has been in many instances, with no disagreeable results. - -The sink is not enclosed, but stands upon legs. Enclosed sinks are -places which cannot be kept clean even with the utmost vigilance. The -brushes, scrub-rags, and buckets, which are usually kept there, are in -this kitchen provided a place elsewhere. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3.] - -At the left of the sink is a table; at the right, a drain-board, which -is inclined toward the sink, and provided with grooves. At the right of -this is a swing-table on the same level. The soiled dishes are placed on -the table at the left, washed in the sink, which is provided with cocks -for hot and cold water, drained on the drain-board, and, when wiped, -placed on the table at the right. A glance at the plan will show that -they are then beside the door which leads to the china-closet, and may -be quickly placed where they belong. - -It may be well to say a few words about the china-closet. The shelves -are placed in a passage which leads from the kitchen to the dining-room, -and are separated from the passage by doors. This passage is lighted by -a window, and has two doors leading into it--one from the dining-room, -and one from the kitchen (Fig. 2). These doors are swung on double -swinging hinges, so that they may be opened by merely pushing against -them, and will then swing back noiselessly into a closed position. One -may pass through doors of this kind with a tray full of dishes without -touching them with the hand. This arrangement dispenses with the -necessity for a slide, and also does away with the noises and odors from -the kitchen, which so readily find their way to the rest of the house -where a slide is used. However, if a slide is really desired, it can be -placed over either the table at the left of the sink or over the -swing-table at the right, and be convenient from both kitchen and -dining-room. - -The china-pantry could be readily enlarged into a butler's pantry, by -extending it across the end of the dining-room, and placing the end -window of this room on one side, thus bringing two windows on the same -wall. There is a movable shelf under one of the permanent shelves in -this china-closet, which can be drawn out in order to place a tray of -dishes on it while they are being put away, and which can be pushed out -of the way when not in use. This shelf is also of service as a place -upon which to arrange the different dishes needed for the several -courses of a meal, and in this way facilitates the table service. - -In Fig. 4, the combination idea is carried out in pantry and -china-closet. The pantry-cupboard projects into the room in a way to -form a partition between the pantry and china-closet, and, at the same -time, admits of a passage between the kitchen and dining-room with a -separation of two doors. - -Fig. 5 indicates an approved form of construction of china-closet and -pantry, such as may be used in most of the pantries and china-rooms -which are in this book. - -[Illustration: Fig. 4.] - -The work which takes the most time is the preparation of food, and every -well-planned kitchen has its arrangements for lightening this burden. -The first consideration is the location of the utensils, and the table -and sink where the meats and vegetables are prepared. All should be near -enough to the range so that there are no unnecessary steps to be taken. -The number that are taken where the sink is in one corner of the -kitchen, the table in another, and the range removed from both, is -innumerable. In this kitchen the table proper and the sink are together, -and they are but a step from the range. - -There is a small swing-table attached to the wall at one side of the -range. This provides a place for utensils, such as spoons, and forks, -and dishes, such as those holding pancake batter, which are in constant -use during cooking, and which cannot be held in the hand while the -cooking is in progress. This alone saves many steps. The drain-board is -a good place for draining vegetables, and to place utensils which are -used in the preparation of food. Above the sink are hooks, etc., upon -which to keep small utensils. In localities where there is much dust -coming in from the outside these utensils must be kept elsewhere, behind -closed doors. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5.] - -For the preparation of bread, cake, pastries, etc., the pantry is -provided. In it are places for everything which can be used for such -preparation. One can go out of the heat and noise of the kitchen into a -little room which holds everything that can possibly be needed, and -there prepare those articles of food which take the most time and -careful attention. In Fig. 2 are two windows; under one is the -dough-board. This is a table fastened to the wall at a convenient -height for moulding and general work of this character. On one end is a -piece of marble, twelve inches wide by sixteen long, which is used for -moulding purposes. The advantages of such a piece of marble are -numerous. It is as easily cleaned as a dish and requires no scouring, -and, as dough does not readily stick to it, moulding can be done without -the trouble which comes from the use of a board. This piece of marble is -not fastened to the dough-board, as is sometimes done. Where it is set -into the board there will always be creases in which dough will lodge, -and it can only be cleaned with the greatest trouble. Where it is free, -it can be raised from the board occasionally, and everything thoroughly -cleaned. - -At the right of the board is the flour-bin, which contains places for -various kinds of flour and meal. Next to it is the refrigerator. Over -the refrigerator is a window which opens on the porch, and through which -the ice may be placed without the iceman going through the kitchen with -his wet feet and dripping load. - -At the left of the dough-board are shelves for keeping stores. The lower -shelves are enclosed by doors and provided with a lock, so that extra -stores may be placed there for safe keeping, where this is found -desirable. The upper shelves are exposed. On them are kept sugar, tea, -coffee, baking-powder, and kindred stores, which are in every-day use, -and can be reached easier if there are no doors to be opened and closed. -They should be kept in air-tight cans, which prevent their exposure to -dust, insects, and air. Back of the door opening into the kitchen are -hooks for the utensils which more properly belong in the pantry than the -kitchen. - -Many housekeepers prefer to keep the refrigerator in the cellar, on -account of the waste in the ice. This waste, to the mind of the writer, -is a small matter. The time spent by either housekeeper or servant in -going into the cellar could much better be occupied in doing something -else which would save more than does keeping the refrigerator below. -Then, again, when it is kept in the pantry it can readily be provided -with a zinc drain to the outside, which saves some little labor. In the -cellar such a drain would only be possible where sand could be reached. -A refrigerator should never, under any circumstances, be drained into -the sewer, as is sometimes done. - -The utensils which properly belong to the kitchen are kept in an -old-fashioned kitchen safe, rather than in a closet opening out from the -kitchen. A safe is more readily cleaned than a closet, and the -perforated metal doors render the upper part of it an excellent place -for storing cold food, which it is not desirable to keep in the -refrigerator. Then if, as may happen in any kitchen which is left to the -care of servants, vermin should take possession, the safe can be moved -from the room, and trouble from this source avoided. - -The entrance to the cellar is near the table, as marked. At the head of -the cellar are placed brooms, mops, and dust-pans, and above these, well -away from the head when going below, is a shelf upon which two buckets -can be placed. - -Back of the range is a small wooden box, thirty inches long by -twenty-two inches wide and twelve inches deep, which is provided with a -door and shelves. These shelves, as well as the top and bottom, have -holes bored through them in order to allow the passage of hot air. In -this box scrubbing-rags and brushes dry at once, and never have a bad -odor. The box is of the same wood as the other kitchen finish, and looks -as if it were a part of it. - -A soap-box, with construction similar to the above, may be provided. It -should have a tin-pipe connection with flue or other ventilating -apparatus. It will dry the soap and render its use less wasteful. - -The ventilation of the kitchen is an important matter. The ideal kitchen -has no rooms over it, and has ventilators in the ceiling. But this is -not possible in most houses, and a substitute must be provided. An -inverted sheet-iron hopper placed over the range, with an opening into -either the flue or the outside of the house, will carry out the odors -from cooking. An opening into the pipe-duct which holds the plumbing -pipes will keep them from freezing in cold weather at the same time that -it helps ventilate. - -An important consideration in a kitchen is to build it so that it will -not readily accumulate dirt, and can be easily cleaned. A large amount -of time is spent in every well-kept house in cleaning the kitchen. The -floor should be of oak, maple, or other hard wood, oiled, waxed, or -finished with regular floor-finishing. The casings and doors are, of -course, kept in better condition, with less labor, when of hard wood. -Where this is not attainable, poplar, or other similar wood, finished -with a varnish which will stand warm water, will prove a very good -substitute. The tables should be either of oak, which requires little -scrubbing, or poplar, which is so easily scrubbed that it is always -white enough to delight the heart of the most particular housekeeper. A -kitchen finished in this way is much less care than when the floor is of -soft wood, and the finish a soft wood painted. - -All kitchens in this book are planned according to the principles here -set forth. They do not pretend to be exactly like this one, but the same -general principle runs through all. - -There are very good reasons why wainscoting should not be used in a -kitchen, and no compensating advantages. The bead-joints and extra -wood-work thereof make labor in the impossible task of keeping it clean. -The less wood-work there is in a kitchen, the better. There are various -kind of water-proof proprietary plaster finishes which may be used in -finishing the walls and ceiling of a kitchen. Where they are not used, a -white skim coat should be put on and painted after about a year's use. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - CELLAR.--FUEL DEPARTMENTS.--FURNACE - CONVENIENCES.--COAL-BINS.--CEMENT FLOORS.--LIGHT IN THE CELLAR.--A - CELLAR-CLOSET.--OUTSIDE CELLAR-DOOR. - - -The cellar was originally a hole in the ground. In the modern house, -that is arranged to please the house-keeper, it is well lighted; -provided with a smooth cement floor that is easily cleaned; is not open -as one room, but has apartments--one for a laundry, another for fuel and -furnace, and still others for fruits and general stores. In the matter -of fuel there is no reason why the entire winter supply should not be in -the basement. It is certainly a great deal worse to go outside of the -house in winter time from a hot, steaming kitchen, than it is to go into -the basement for the fuel. However, there is some objection to storing -wood in the cellar, for the reason that it brings bugs, ants, and vermin -into the house. - -Coal-bins should be constructed with hopper bottoms,--with bottom and -sides slanting from level of outside grade-line to cellar floor,--where -the location will admit of it. When there is not a cellar under all of -the house, it is generally possible to arrange the coal-bin under the -part without cellar, and slanting down to the part so used. This is -illustrated in plan No. 11, Chapter XX. There the coal is put through -the windows into the bins, and slides down to the opening in cellar. For -each shovelful of coal taken away from the lower opening, another will -take its place. This is particularly true with crushed coke, or -anthracite coal, or nut and egg sizes of other fuel. The lump sizes -require a larger opening than the usual twenty-inch-square opening for -the coal mentioned. These bins should be lined on the bottom preferably -with bricks laid in cement. If this is not used, two-inch oak boards -will do. Partitions of the same material should be used to separate the -various bins. With an arrangement of this kind a large amount of storage -capacity can be provided. Under some circumstances this plan cannot be -adopted. In such a case the ordinary bins may be used. - -As houses are now planned, the first tier of joists are placed from -twenty to twenty-four inches above the grade-line. Where it is not -possible to secure that height for cellar-windows, areas may be built of -brick or stone, and additional light provided. Light is the enemy of -disorder and uncleanliness; where there is exposure there will be less -disorder. - -It is not necessary to have the cellar under the whole house, for -reasons as mentioned, and on account of the cost. It is sometimes -important that savings of all kinds be made. The furnace may be set in a -pit with its face directed to the cellar. It is best that the opening -from the hoppered coal-bins, above described, be close to the furnace. -If it can be opened at the side, so that one can stand in the pit and -throw coal in the fire-box, it is better than any other arrangement. - -The ordinary cellar is seven feet in the clear, and, for this reason, it -is nearly always necessary to pit the furnace. This is done by digging -an extra depth, and lining the area and opening with brick. - -Near enough to the furnace to be warm, should be a closet for canned -fruit, made of flooring-boards, if not of more substantial material, and -provided with a door and lock. It should be shelved with board about -seven inches apart. Other winter stores, like potatoes, cabbage, etc., -should be kept in a dark cellar with an earth floor. It is the opinion -of farmers and others that vegetables keep best when lying next the -ground. The cellar-involving arrangements here outlined may be seen in -plan No. 11. The outside door, which leads into the cellar, should bolt -on the inside, and the upper cellar door on the outside. There should be -doors provided to separate the different rooms. Where cost is an item, -they may be made of two thicknesses of flooring. Cellar-windows should -be hung on hinges, and provided with bolt fastenings; catches are not -secure. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - A LOW-COST LAUNDRY.--BLUE MONDAY.--BASEMENT LAUNDRY.--LOW-COST - CONVENIENCES.--INEXPENSIVE LAUNDRY FITTINGS.--HOT AND COLD WATER - ARRANGEMENTS.--A LABOR-SAVING LAUNDRY.--A PLACE TO DO - FRUIT-CANNING. - - -The term "Blue Monday" probably originated on account of its being -general wash-day, and a day in which everybody about the house undertook -to do an impossible amount of work with limited resources. - -Most of the washings in this country are done in the kitchen. The -wash-boiler is on the stove, and the servant or mistress of the house, -or both, attempt to wash and do their cooking without seriously -disturbing the routine of meals. There is a fussiness about everything -pertaining to that day, which creates an atmosphere of blueness which is -proverbial. The steamy, crowded kitchen, the almost inevitable wetness -or slipperiness, the great physical exertion required, the carrying of -water, the lifting of tubs, are all uncomfortable, and the work is done -at a great disadvantage. In an expensive house, where there is plenty of -money, Monday is not so blue. Immunity is purchased. Possibly the -clothes are sent from the house to be washed in somebody else's kitchen; -maybe to be worn by some one else before they are returned, and often to -be injured or destroyed by the strong washing-mixtures and soaps, which -are made to save rubbing. This kind of immunity is expensive. It is too -expensive for the large majority of people. It is annoying to all -alike. - -Laundry work will sometime be done at a cost which will admit of people -of moderate means having this work done at a public laundry. At present, -the general laundry work of an ordinary household cannot be done in this -way, on account of the expense. - -The general public laundry, where arrangements are made to do the entire -family washing at a low cost, is a complete solution of the Blue-Monday -problem; but until the laundry is an accomplished fact, such work will -be done at home, and a family laundry must be considered in -house-building. It would be a very easy matter to arrange a laundry -which would meet all the desired conditions, if we were to operate -independent of cost, but the large majority of people are not -independent in this way. If it were not a matter of cost, we would have -an independent room for the laundry work, with porcelain tubs, and hot -and cold water running into all of them; we could have a steam-drier, -and many other things, which it is useless to mention here. It is the -laundry of the moderate-cost house which interests the largest number of -people. - -We must have a place to do laundry work which is a compromise between -the foggy kitchen and the laundry with porcelain tubs. - -As houses are now built, the first floor is usually from two and a half -to three feet above the grade. This affords abundant opportunity of -getting a well-lighted basement. If the basement is dark, put more -windows in it, and whitewash the walls and ceilings. Cement the floor. -Put in a slop sink, and give it a trapped connection with the vault or -sewer. Provide a pump over this sink to connect with the cistern. If the -city water is soft, this will be used and no pump will be required. Then -a laundry stove is to be provided. Thus we have everything ready for -use without much labor, and certainly at a very low cost. - -The basement should be light under any circumstances. The floor should -be cemented, the joists should be whitewashed, so that the only -additions necessary to make the laundry work easy are a laundry stove, a -place to throw waste water, and a supply of hot and cold water. If one -does not care to heat the water in the ordinary boiler, there is a very -simple device for heating water which may be placed in any laundry. An -open tank, which will hold two or three barrels of water, can be placed -over the stove and next to the joist. From it a connection can be made -with the laundry stove by means of lead and iron pipe. This pipe should -start from the bottom of the tank and connect with an iron pipe which -enters the stove, and passes around the inside of the fire-pot, then to -the outside and connects with another lead pipe, which empties into the -tank again on a level above the first opening. Thus the cold water would -come from the bottom of the tank, through the stove where it would be -heated, thence upward and into the tank. This would give a hot-water -circulating connection, and in this way provide hot water for use in the -laundry. This arrangement would require a low-cost force-pump to force -the water to the tank. There are many kinds of these pumps, which are -substantial and can be secured at a low cost. The pipe from the stove -could be supplied with a compression cock from which the water could be -drawn into the tubs. The better way would be to have an independent tank -connection. Lead pipe was mentioned as being the pipe to use in making -the connection with the iron pipe in the laundry stove. Galvanized iron -pipe would answer every purpose and cost a little less. Where set tubs -are not used, the water could be readily distributed by means of a hose -pipe. If the above arrangement is too expensive, the stove only can be -used for heating water. - -Set tubs might be used instead of the ordinary wooden ones which were -contemplated, and would save a good deal of labor, but the cost is -something which all cannot afford. The arrangement described here can be -reached by nearly every one of moderate means. It provides a place to -throw slop water, and brings hot and cold water close at hand. It -isolates the washing from the cooking, and the smell of washing from the -whole house. It is very different from the conditions in most houses, -where the water has to be carried from the backyard into the house, -lifted to the stove, poured into the tubs, and afterward carried out, a -bucket at a time, and emptied over the back fence, if the tub is not -dragged out and emptied into the yard. - -It is well in building a new house to have an outside cellar-way to -facilitate the use of the laundry below. In such a case the clothes can -be carried into the yard without being taken through the kitchen. There -will be times when the weather will not permit taking the clothes -outdoors. In very cold weather it should never be done. It is murderous -for a woman to have to carry clothes from a hot, steamy laundry or -kitchen at eighty degrees to the cold, dry air of the outside. There is -no woman so strong that she can stand this. All the clothes can be -readily dried in the basement. Here is presented another argument in -favor of the laundry below. The washing can always be done at the -appointed time in spite of the weather. When one goes into a large attic -he is apt to say, "What a splendid place to dry clothes." People who dry -clothes in the attic usually do the washing in the kitchen. - -A basement laundry is a cool place in summer and a warm one in winter. -There is no better place for ironing in warm weather, for even with a -fire the basement is always cool. Nor can there be a better place for -canning fruit. The conveniences of plenty of water, a fire, and yet a -cool place for doing this extremely laborious work, will be readily -appreciated. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - THE SECOND FLOOR.--STAIRWAYS.--THE COMBINATION STAIRWAY.--IDEAL - NUMBER OF BEDROOMS.--LARGE CLOSETS AND PLENTY OF THEM.--A - LINEN-CLOSET.--PLACING OF GAS-FIXTURES.--SERVANT'S - ROOM.--BATH-ROOM.--AN ATTIC.--ATTIC CLOSETS.--ATTIC ROOMS. - - -In many houses a combination stairway is used. By this is meant one in -which the front and rear stairways run together in a common landing. In -this case, there should be doors separating the rear from the front -stairway, one at the beginning, and one at the end of the rear part. The -combination stairway is a compromise. Oftentimes, however, one can -secure other things which are desirable by its use. There are other -compromises more objectionable than the combination stairway. - -A stairway of this kind is not used as the most desirable thing, but as -the least objectionable of other compromises; for instance, if one can -secure, for a given cost, an additional room or two by using a -combination stairway, the room is frequently preferable. No one can -doubt but that a front stairway, entirely separated from the one in the -rear, is the best thing to have; however, it is easy to understand that -a combination stairway may be used for reasons above stated. In some of -the plans a stairway is shown, starting from a stair-hall in the rear of -reception-hall or room. Under such circumstances, a combination is not -necessary. One can come from the kitchen and go upstairs without being -observed from the other parts of the house. Again, combinations are -sometimes used so that they apply to the servant's room as a continuous -stairway, and as a combination to the other parts of the house. This is -true of several plans given. - -It is almost superfluous to say that a stairway should be easy, still it -is known that not all are so. The one in the front part of the building -should always be made without winders; that in the rear, the same way if -possible. Landings are preferable, and make a staircase beautiful. -Stairways may be considered from a hygienic standpoint. This, however, -is not necessary in this connection. Where there is only one stairway, -it is not uncommon to have it start from the dining-room, and, if one -stops to think about it, this is not a bad arrangement. The dining-room -is centrally located, and the stairway may be used by the servants when -this room is not otherwise in use. Certainly it is less objectionable -than placing it in a hall through which all have to pass, or where it is -necessary to pass through other rooms to reach the second floor from the -rear. A combination stairway, or one that starts up from the -dining-room, is less objectionable in a house where there is a bath-room -on the second floor than it would otherwise be. Where the bath-room is -so placed, it is not necessary that the slops be carried down or the -water carried up stairs; and, in other respects, it is less necessary to -use the stairway in a disagreeable way. - -The rear stairway should be connected with the front part of the house -by means of a hall on the second floor. It is generally found desirable -to have a girl's room near the rear stairway, and to cut off that part -of the house from the front by means of a door. There should be means of -lighting, artificial and otherwise, at the beginning and landings of all -stairways. - -In a young and growing family, five is the ideal number of rooms for the -second floor. This number may be increased or decreased according to the -size and development of the family. Where there are five rooms it -affords, first, a family room in front, built over the parlor or -sitting-room; next to that is a room in front for the very young -children, and afterwards for the girls; then the room in the rear of the -family room may be for the boys; the fourth room for guests, and the -fifth for the servant. The guest-room view is to the side and the rear. -There are cases where one must accommodate a large number of people with -a smaller number of rooms, and, again, a larger number of rooms is -thought indispensable. In connection with the size of bedrooms, we may -say what was said before,--that their availability does not depend -entirely upon their size. A room may be large and still not contain a -place for a bed or other furniture. It may be moderately small and yet -have space for all. - -The more we think about the arrangement of houses, the larger appear the -number of indispensables. It used to be thought unnecessary to have a -closet in every bedroom; one was certainly enough in the family room. -Now it is almost a necessity that there be two closets in the family -room--one for the lady, and a smaller one for the gentleman. There -should certainly be one closet in every bedroom, and, in addition to -that, one which opens from the hall, to be used for bed-linen and -general bedroom supplies. A suitable place for brooms and dust-pans is -the attic stairway when a special closet is not provided. - -In lighting bedrooms there should be at least one window for each -outside exposure. Where the size will admit, there should be two windows -placed so that the dressing-case can be set between them, either in the -corner or otherwise. Most bedrooms are lighted artificially by bracket -lights instead of the centre light. There should be one bracket on each -side of the dressing-case; if not, a pendent light immediately over it. -Centre connections for gas-fixture are usually provided, but in practice -many houses are not supplied with the fixture. - -Grates on the second floor make work: carrying of fuel and ashes is -always disagreeable in the extremest degree. The placing of ash-pits in -the cellar may make it unnecessary to carry the ashes, but still grates -make work. At the same time it is very pleasant to have a grate in the -bedroom; they are the best means of ventilation known. - -The servant's room is not usually very large, seldom large enough. It -should be provided with a closet, the same as other rooms. The window in -that room should be set high enough from the floor so as to admit of the -placing of a trunk under it, without interfering with the light or in -other ways appearing uncomfortable. - -The bath-room and general plumbing work are considered in detail in the -following chapter. It is sufficient to say that there should be as -little wood-work as possible in the bath-room. Water-proof plastering -should be used, and when this becomes soiled it can be washed and -painted. - -There is nothing a housekeeper appreciates more than a good attic and an -easy stairway leading to it. Often attics are not plastered; they should -always be floored at the same time the house is built. Where it is not -possible to make divisions by plastering, and other substantial -material, light wooden partitions will serve the purpose of providing -means of classifying that which is stored in the attic, and prevent it -from being in a continual state of disorder. The rooms may be fitted -with shelves, closets, etc. - -Where it is possible so to do, the attic room should be plastered. It -makes the rooms below appreciably cooler in summer. In most of the -plans herein illustrated, the roof is high enough to provide space for -good rooms, with ceilings as high and as square as those of the rooms -below. It is cheaper to provide rooms in this way than to spread over -more ground; and there is certainly no valid objection to their use by -the boys of the family. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - - PLUMBING.--IS PLUMBING ENTIRELY SAFE?--COMPLETENESS IN PLUMBING - APPARATUS.--LABOR-SAVING PLUMBING APPARATUS.--SEWER - CONNECTIONS.--SOIL PIPE.--A TRAP.--ACCIDENTS TO TRAPS.--FREQUENT - USE OF PLUMBING APPARATUS DESIRABLE FOR - SAFETY.--WATER-CLOSETS.--SIMPLICITY IN PLUMBING.--DRAIN - CONNECTIONS.--TO KEEP PLUMBING APPARATUS FROM FREEZING.--CISTERN - WATER SUPPLY.--GREASE SINK.--FLUSHING OF DRAIN.--BATH-TUB. - - -In considering the plumbing apparatus of a house, the question is often -asked, "Are these things safe? Do they not endanger the health of the -occupants of the house?" The answer is, The plumbing apparatus may be -entirely safe. That it is not always so, we all know. We hear of many -cases of typhoid fever, diphtheria, scarlet fever, and other diseases, -which are traceable to, or aggravated by, defective plumbing. In some -sections of the country so much trouble has been caused by poor -plumbing, that the people, as a class, have come to be suspicious of -all. The reason for this is the effort to cheapen the work. Suffering -from bad work has led to safety. In larger cities this work is under the -control of the city government. It may be said that it is possible so to -arrange the fixtures and apparatus appertaining to plumbing that it is -entirely safe. The question naturally follows, "How is this done?" - -It may be said that good work is not a great deal more expensive than -poor work. Again, good work is not always a question of money. It is one -of knowledge or inclination on the part of the plumber. - -One in moderate circumstances, who builds a house to cost from -twenty-five hundred to four thousand dollars, should have well water or -city water, and hot and cold cistern water in the sink in the kitchen. -There should be at least a slop-hopper in the laundry. In the bath-room -a water-closet, a tub, and generally a wash-stand. This latter feature -is not absolutely necessary, as will be explained later. In the attic -there should be a tank to hold the cistern water, which is connected -with the fixtures using soft water below. A force-pump, or water-motor, -may be located in the kitchen or basement to lift the water to tank. In -more elaborate houses a completer plumbing apparatus may be used. There -may be an especial sink in the china-closet. There may be wash-stands in -the various chambers, and one on the first floor. - -There may be, also, an additional water-closet on the first floor, or in -the cellar, located where it is accessible to the members of the family. -There are many ways of expending money in plumbing fixtures; but, with -those first mentioned, one may be entirely comfortable, and derive all -of the housekeeping benefits which may be expected from such -conveniences. Unless the house be large, an increase in the number of -fixtures would increase the amount of work done in keeping them clean, -rather than save labor. - -In the matter of safety, another question, which sometimes arises, is as -to the danger from the plumbing apparatus where there is no sewer -connection, or where it has to be made with a vault. The protection -against sewer-gas is not from the sewer itself or the vault. It is -entirely through protective apparatus in the house, and the manner of -the connection with the vault or sewer. - -One may consider the conditions of safety in plumbing apparatus under -two general heads. First, as to the workmanship; second, as to design or -plan of the apparatus. Nothing need be said as to the workmanship, -excepting that the execution of the design, or the benefits to be -derived from it, maybe entirely lost by defective workmanship. If the -work is not properly executed, the design need not be considered. The -result will be bad irrespective of the plan. - -In considering the design of the apparatus, we will take into account -the arrangement of the connections and fixtures. By the latter -expression is meant the tub, the water-closet, the wash-bowl, and the -sink, pump, etc. The connections which have to do with the safety of the -apparatus are the traps and the waste pipes, or pipes which connect with -the vault or sewer. - -The main waste pipe inside the house is called the soil pipe. The -smaller waste pipes from the fixtures connect with it. The soil pipe is -of cast-iron, and usually four inches in diameter on the inside. It -connects, full size, with the water-closet. Most other wastes are of -lead, and are usually an inch and a half in diameter. In the soil and -waste pipes there will naturally be the odors from the vaults and sewer, -or from the foul matter which is in or passing through the pipes. -Therefore, there must be means in each waste pipe, which connects a -fixture with the main soil pipe, of preventing the passage of gas or air -from it into the house. This is done by means of what is called a trap. -The "S" trap is the commonest form; this name is given it from its -shape, and illustrates its construction. If we take a letter S and turn -it sideways we will get the form of such a trap. The right side or end -would continue directly down toward the drain or soil pipe, and the left -side would continue upward and connect with the fixture (see Fig. 6). -The water from the fixture comes down and is forced upward through the -bend by the pressure of water above, and from thence runs into the soil -pipe or drain. Thus it will be seen that there is always a seal of water -in the trap. There is always water in the trap as indicated by the depth -of the bend of the S. There are hundreds of different forms of traps, -but they are all constructed on the same principle; the idea being that -the gas or air from the pipe would have to pass through the water in -order to get into the house. The water in the trap is called the seal; -it seals the passage of air as stated. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6.] - -There are many conditions under which a trap may fail to do its full -duty. It may be foul in itself, or it may be rendered foul by the bad -air in the drain. The trap may be siphoned by a heavy flow of water -through the main drain, or it may be siphoned by a string or a rag which -may readily find its way into the trap, and hang over the bend so that -all of the water will run out. Again, the water in the trap may -evaporate. All these dangers may be guarded against. In the first place, -there should be means which allow fresh air to pass through all that -portion of the main drain or soil pipe which is in or close to the -house. The means of accomplishing this are various. - -The soil pipe is ventilated by continuing up through and well above the -roof with a full opening at the top. The smaller drains should be -ventilated in the same way when far removed from main soil pipe or other -connection. The traps should be ventilated by 1-1/2-inch or two-inch -connections with the outer air, as shown by cut. - -Frequent use of plumbing fixtures contributes to safety. It causes a -large volume of water to pass through the pipes. The flushing of the -pipes and drains in this way makes them cleaner and thus safer. It is -frequently said by those who have plumbing fixtures in their houses -that they use them as little as possible, because they are afraid of -them. Nothing worse could be done. The water in the traps evaporates or -becomes foul, and thus the gas has a free entrance to the house. A -water-closet helps greatly to cleanse the soil pipe and outside drain. -It discharges a large volume of water into it suddenly, in a way to keep -it clean. It is not a bad plan to use the closet at least once a day, -solely for the purpose of flushing the drain. In houses where there are -a number of wash-stands distributed through the various chambers and -halls there is danger from neglect in using them. The water seal in the -traps may evaporate, and thus give direct sewer-air connection with the -house. Particularly is this so in the guest's room. A wash-stand is a -more dangerous fixture for this reason than any other in the house. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7] - -The water-closet problem has received a great deal of attention. A few -years ago they were quite complicated, there being levers and pipes, -pans, springs and weights, to a degree of complexity which caused a -great deal of trouble. There has since been a return to first principles -and great simplicity. The water-closet of to-day is nothing more or less -than a large bowl connected by means of an "S" trap four inches in -diameter with the soil pipe, and provided with means of flushing with -large volumes of water. Such a closet is known as the "washout closet." -In other closets there is an intermediate plunger-valve separating the -hopper from the trap. The plunger-valve is defined by its name. It is a -large stopper which plunges into and closes up the opening to the trap -by means of its own weight when released. That which makes one closet -different from another has to do more with means of flushing than -anything else. By flushing is meant the pouring into and distribution of -water in the hopper. The most popular closets, those which have given -the most satisfaction, are "washout" closets, made entirely of white -earthenware, not alone the bowl, but the trap and connecting neck. -Closets are best flushed from an independent tank, which is placed about -seven feet above the closet and connects with it by means of 1-1/4-inch -pipe. The height gives it a strong flush of water, which cleanses it -thoroughly. - -In the past it has been usual to conceal the earthenware or iron body of -the closet. It is best to leave it entirely open around the sides, that -the entire apparatus may be exposed. Sometimes it is necessary to -support the flap and seat by legs, though the modern closets are -arranged so that all of the woodwork may be secured to the upper part of -the hopper or the wall. There should be the solid flap covering to the -wooden seat with the opening in it, both of which should be hinged, so -as to allow them to be thrown back. It is convenient to use the -water-closet as a slop hopper. In order to do this the seat should be -hinged, so that it may be thrown back out of the way. - -One frequently hears it said by those who exercise their authority over -household matters that they do not allow anything to be put into the -water-closet except that which is naturally intended for it; meaning -that they do not allow the slop water to be put into it. There is no -reason in this. The closet that cannot be used for this purpose cannot, -with safety, be allowed in the house. The use of the water-closet as a -slop sink is not only legitimate but desirable. It flushes the drain. - -There is a movement toward simplicity in general plumbing apparatus. At -the time the water-closets were in the complicated state mentioned, -everything pertaining to plumbing was in the same general condition. It -was thought necessary to fill a house with a wilderness of pipes and -traps to have it safe or satisfactory. The very complexity of the -arrangement made it not only unsafe but expensive to maintain. - -We have all heard a great deal about the expense of maintaining a -plumbing plant, if it may be so called. There is no reason why there -should be constant repairs and expense. It is pleasant to know that -additional expense is not necessary to secure immunity from trouble. The -idea of simplicity in arrangement, general excellence in the fixtures, -material, and labor, which go to form the completed work, has to be -borne in mind. The arrangement of the plumbing apparatus has to be -planned with the same care and thoughtfulness as the other parts of the -house. - -It should be remembered that if the pipes are placed in a position where -the temperature is liable to fall below thirty-two degrees the water in -the pipes will freeze. Thus it is suggested that all pipes should be on -an inside wall,--if possible, next to the kitchen flue,--and that there -be here arranged an especial pipe duct of wood to ventilate the kitchen, -and, at the same time, keep the pipes from freezing by means of the warm -air which will pass through it. This duct should be covered on the face -with a wide board, which can be readily removed by taking out a few -screws. Thus the pipes may be exposed at any time desirable. - -If the hot-water boiler in the kitchen is surrounded by an enclosure -which has an opening in the bottom, and which connects from above with -the pipe duct previously described, there will be a current of warm air -passing upward through the pipe duct as long as there is warm water in -the boiler. The water in the boiler will be warm long after everything -else is cold. This will insure safety from freezing when other helps -fail. - -The cistern water is supplied to the bath-room, and to the hot-water -reservoir, by means of a tank placed in the attic, or at least above the -highest fixture. It sometimes happens that the supply pipe from the tank -above the attic floor freezes. All this may be prevented by enclosing -the tank, and the pipe which connects with it, with a large box or -canvas covering which is six or eight inches larger than the tank. This -confines the warm air from the duct mentioned, so that as long as there -is heat it will always be in this enclosure. - -The outside drain, which connects with the vault or sewer, is, in some -instances, trapped previous to its entrance to the sewer or vault. In -such cases, this trap should have a connection with the outer air, and -on the side of the trap towards the house. Sometimes this outer-air -connection is made into the water spout from the roof; but this is not -proper, for the reason that the sewer gas, or the gas from the vault, is -almost certain to destroy the spout. Again, this spout may come out near -a dormer, or may pass near a window, and in either case may contaminate -the air in the house. It is better that this ventilating connection -should be in the yard, at some distance from the house, or, better yet, -that there should be a long iron pipe extending well above the ground. -It should be understood that this vent has no direct connection with the -sewer, but merely with the soil pipe and drain back of the trap; with -that part of it which is nearest to, and in, the house. - -Sometimes it is necessary to run the down spouts into the sewer -connection; in such a case one should be certain that the down-spout -openings are not near the dormers, and that they have no connection -whatever with the cistern. It is common to have a switch or cut-off in -the down spout, so that the latter may be connected either with the -cistern or sewer. This is very bad practice. While it is connected with -the sewer or with the drain pipe, the down spout is contaminated with -all the foulness of the air of the drain. On its being connected with -the cistern, the water is poisoned. - -Immunity from sewer gas in the house is largely dependent upon the -flushing and ventilation of the drain and the soil pipe. In the case of -a drain which is trapped as described, there is an air connection -through the vent before the trap; then the soil pipe which is in the -house should continue upward through the roof. Thus there is a fresh air -inlet through the drain, and upward through the soil pipe of the house. -Such a connection prevents the possibility of siphoning the traps, as it -gives an outward air connection. The water passing through the drain or -soil pipe can draw its supply of air from the upward soil vent, rather -than through the traps which contain water. When there is no upward vent -of the soil or drain, the water in the traps which connect therewith -will be drawn out by the passage of water through the drain where -fixtures are used. - -There are those who maintain that there should be no trap in the yard or -adjacent to the house, but that there should be a straight run from the -soil pipe to the sewer or vault, and upward through the roof and above -the house. It is good practice to use the trap as described for sewer -connections, but not for open vault connections. - -A grease sink is frequently placed in the drain to intercept the -passage of grease into the vault. It is so placed and connected that -only the water from the kitchen sink, or other fixtures where the water -contains grease, may enter it. It is made of brick, and is usually of -six or eight barrels capacity. A four-inch pipe connects it with the -kitchen waste, and if the grease sink is placed adjacent to the main -drain, there can be a similar connection between it and the main drain. -It should be a siphon connection, so that the sink will become nearly -full before it discharges. When it discharges through the siphon the -water will go out with a rush and leave the grease in the sink. This -makes an intermittent discharge into the main drain, which flushes or -cleanses it thoroughly and is much better than a constant small flow of -water. This grease sink must be cleaned from time to time. Small -cast-iron grease sinks are sometimes placed under kitchen sinks in very -large dwellings or hotels. - -Nothing particular need be said in regard to wash-stands more than has -been said, excepting, possibly, that the drain should be trapped, -ventilated, and connected with the soil pipe; also that there should be -a lead safe or safety pan on the floor under the wash-stand when they -are enclosed; it is preferable that they should remain unenclosed. It -has been common to connect this safe with the soil pipe. It is only -intended that it should be useful in cases of accidental overflow; but, -notwithstanding the fact that there be a trap in the safe waste or -drain, it would be empty most of the time, because of the evaporation of -the water. It is proper to make direct connection with the cellar or -kitchen sink. - -The bath-tub should have the same-sized drain connection as the -wash-stand; that is, one and one-half inch in diameter, trapped. The -overflows from both the wash-stand and tub should be flushed with hot -water quite frequently, to avoid the soap smells which are so common to -bath-rooms. It often happens that those who have bath-rooms in their -houses imagine that they smell sewer gas, when it is nothing more or -less than the smell of rancid soap. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - HEAT AND VENTILATION.--COMMON HEATING ARRANGEMENTS.--PRESENT - METHODS GENERALLY UNSATISFACTORY.--IDEAL CONDITIONS.--PROPER AMOUNT - OF MOISTURE RARELY ATTAINED.--A FURNACE DEFINED.--METHODS OF - REACHING BEST RESULTS.--SUPPLY OF PROPER AMOUNT OF - MOISTURE.--REMOVAL OF FOUL AIR.--SUPPLYING FRESH AIR WITH PROPER - MOISTURE FROM STOVES.--STEAM AND HOT WATER HEATING.--DIRECT AND - INDIRECT RADIATION.--LOW-COST HEATING APPARATUS. - - -It is only within a short time that the heating and ventilation of -buildings of any kind have been in any measure satisfactory. This -applies only to the largest buildings; the heating and ventilating of -smaller structures are still in an unsatisfactory condition. Most -dwelling-houses are heated with stoves, which, as now arranged, are not -successful. The same air is heated over and over again. Fresh air in the -proper quantities or from the proper source is not supplied to the -interior of the building. Grates are very well in their way in that they -take large quantities of air from the room. Thus far they ventilate. The -supply of air is necessarily irregular, unless special means are -provided. - -Furnaces are used for heating a very large number of houses. While they -are satisfactory in some respects, they are deficient in others. The -same thing may be said of steam, hot-water, or other heating apparatus. - -As the statement has been made that heating systems in general, as -applied to dwelling-houses, are unsatisfactory, it may be well to state -the fault, and what is to be desired. It is not the purpose to consider -this question chemically, or from a highly scientific standpoint; there -is no occasion for it. It is well to bear in mind that we are -considering the heating and ventilating of a house during cold weather, -and not its ventilation during the summer, when natural means are to be -relied upon. Then it may be asked, What is to be done? Primarily the air -should be at the proper temperature at all times; it should be in its -pure state, as found on the outside of the building, and not -contaminated with any of the gases of combustion. It should be supplied -with its proper equivalent of moisture at the temperature at which we -find it in the room. As it becomes impure from natural causes, there -should be some means of effecting its withdrawal. - -These are the ideal conditions. How far do they exist in practice? The -temperature is ordinarily high enough. The air of the room is apt to be -contaminated by the gases of combustion, and vitiated by breathing and -otherwise. Rarely indeed does it contain its proper equivalent of -moisture; it is dry and parched. Now that we know the conditions in -their ideal state and as they exist in fact, we will consider in detail -what may be done to bring about more satisfactory results. If the -heating apparatus be a furnace, it should be constructed of steel or -wrought-iron plate, the joints thoroughly riveted and calked; or, if of -other material, it should certainly be gas-tight. Every precaution -should be taken to prevent the passage of the air of combustion from the -furnace to the warm-air chambers and from thence to the rooms above. The -furnace is nothing more or less than a large stove with various -radiating arrangements, surrounded by an iron or brick enclosure, with a -supply of fresh air from the outside, and with connecting tin pipes to -the rooms above. It is important that the inner parts, the fire-pot, -the radiating surface, etc., be thoroughly well built and gas-tight, to -prevent the heated air from becoming contaminated by the gases of -combustion. The supply of outer air should be ample. It should be so -arranged that it can never be entirely cut off. The furnace should be of -sufficient capacity so that means of reducing the outer air supply -should not be necessary. However, if such arrangements are made, they -should be limited. - -The proper equivalent of moisture should be given to the air at the -temperature at which it reaches the room. It may be said that there is a -water-pan connected with every furnace, that will do everything -necessary in supplying moisture. This is a mistake. So far as I know, -the furnace or other heating apparatus for dwellings has not been -constructed which is provided with a proper evaporating apparatus. The -pan is set in the side of the furnace, with an opening to the outside -into which water may be poured. It is small, and has very little -evaporating surface on the inside. Oftentimes the joints at the outside -are so poorly made that the cold air from the cellar may be drawn in -over the water in the pan, and in that way prevent its proper -evaporation. Winter air heated to a summer temperature is dry and -parched, whereas natural summer air contains the proper amount of -moisture. The outer air during the winter time has its proper equivalent -of moisture for the winter temperature, which is a much smaller amount -than would belong to it at a higher temperature. Therefore when we take -winter air into the furnace or other heating apparatus, raise it to a -summer temperature, and carry it into a room, we have a very dry air, -which seeks its equivalent of moisture from the occupants of the room, -from the furniture, carpets, walls, ceiling, and everything in it. The -air will not take additional moisture unless that moisture be supplied -after it has reached a higher temperature. For instance, if a spray or -a series of wet blankets be arranged in the cold-air duct, before the -air gets to the furnace, the air will not take the moisture from that -spray or from the damp blankets. The moisture must be supplied after the -air is heated. Where the water-pan is set on the side of the furnace, -and where there is a supply of air through the pan from the cellar, as -there frequently is, evaporation is naturally retarded by the cold air, -as indicated. Again, if this pan be never so well protected, it is -small, the proper amount of evaporating surface is not presented. An -evaporating pan or other device should be placed above the fire-pot and -should occupy a large proportion of the area of the heating chamber. The -supply of water should not be dependent upon some one's attention. It -should be constant by means of a ball-cock or otherwise. It should run -into or drip into a shallow pan, or should be supplied to sheets of felt -or blanket so that the air will come in contact with the moist surfaces, -at the temperature at which it is to go into the room. Thus it has the -proper amount of moisture which belongs to it at that temperature. In -this way we have winter air from the outside going into the room at a -summer temperature and with a summer equivalent of moisture; that is, we -have summer air in the winter time. People sometimes undertake to get -around this by putting water-pans in the registers, but they are rarely -ample. They are neglected, or they interfere with the supply of warm -air, and are abandoned. - -Where a furnace is already in a house, or where it is not possible to -make elaborate arrangements for providing the air with moisture, there -is a very simple makeshift which is quite effective. It consists in -suspending in the registers in the floor small water receptacles--a -quart bucket answers every purpose--in which is placed a broad strip of -linen. This cloth should go to the bottom of the receptacle and be long -enough to hang over and below it for several inches. When the bucket is -filled with water this piece of cloth acts as a siphon, and carries the -water, a drop at a time, into the furnace-pipe, where it is converted -into steam. A piece of old table-linen is the best material to use, for -the reason that it carries the water fast enough, that the heat from the -furnace does not dry it out before it can drop into the pipe; otherwise -the cloth becomes dry at the end, and the siphonage ceases. For the same -reason it should be broad,--about twelve inches. Where a moderate heat -is carried through the furnace-pipe, three quarts of water may be -evaporated in this way in twenty-four hours from each bucket. A bucket -of the size mentioned does not in any way interfere with the passage of -heat. - -The next point for consideration is the means of getting the foul, -contaminated air to the outside. One way is through the use of grates. -Another is by means of ducts in the wall, opening near the floor, which -draw the foul air from the room to the outside. These should consist of -heated flues, with connecting registers in the ceiling and floor, which -may be open when necessary. Under any circumstances, the grate is best. -Sometimes the flue may be heated by a supply of warm air from the -furnace, or by a steam-pipe in case steam is used for heating the house. -In natural-gas regions, the supply of additional heat in a flue from a -furnace or by a jet would be a small matter. - -We have mentioned heating by stoves, grates, and furnaces. The same -principles which apply to the furnishing of fresh air to a furnace may -be applied to a stove. The fact is, they never have been. A stove should -be made, and will be made some day, that is surrounded on the outside by -a second jacket, the space between being connected with the outer air by -means of a tin tube to the under side of the stove. The supply of cold -air could be so arranged as to be shut off when there was no heat in the -stove. The warm air would pass out at the top of the jacket. On top of -the stove could be placed an evaporating pan, and the supply of moisture -come therefrom. In connection with the stove-pipe, which should be -jacketed, a second ventilating flue, starting from the floor and having -an opening both above and below, could be arranged, and in that way the -supply of fresh air and withdrawal of impure air could be accomplished. - -Next we may speak of steam and hot-water heating. So far as a change of -air and the ventilation of the room are concerned, heating by direct -radiation, that is, by radiators placed in the room, is no better than -stove heating. It may be that the air is not so severely parched by the -extreme heat, also the escape of steam may contribute somewhat to the -moisture of the air; but the escape of steam is not agreeable, and is -not allowed to exist to any great extent;--its odor is not always -pleasant. Certainly the addition of moisture to the air by this means -would be a mere makeshift and unsatisfactory. - -Hot-water coils act the same as steam radiators in that they heat the -same air over and over again, and are no better than stoves, so far as -the provision for fresh air, at proper temperature and humidity, is -concerned. - -A steam or hot-water apparatus, with indirect radiation, is superior to -furnace heat as ordinarily provided. The means of supplying moisture to -an indirect steam apparatus, as ordinarily constructed, are not -convenient. There is a radiator for each hot-air connection above, that -is, a radiator for each register, with a distinct and direct supply of -outer air thereto. Sometimes there are two registers connecting with a -single radiator. But under any circumstances the radiators are somewhat -separated, having steam or water connection with the boiler at the -proper point. Steam apparatus for public buildings has been constructed -where the radiators have been bunched, that is, put into a single -chamber, the air passing through the chamber containing the radiators, -where it is heated to the proper temperature, and the moisture -afterwards supplied before it enters the room. Where this arrangement is -used, there must be conductors, tin or otherwise, from the chamber to -the register, as in the case of a furnace. Again, it will be found that -the supply of air will not be uniform through all of the openings; for -instance, the register that is farthest removed from the warm-air -chamber may fail to act. In this event, auxiliary radiators may be -placed under that register, and the operation of the heating apparatus -greatly facilitated thereby. This plan is superior to a furnace, and can -be applied to hot-water or steam apparatus in dwellings. The reason that -it is superior to a furnace is that the supply of heat is more uniform. -It does not require the constant firing or attention that is necessary -in the case of a hot-air furnace. It may be known that the temperature -does not change with the pressure of steam or in the same proportion. - -There are inexpensive automatic arrangements in connection with furnaces -and steam apparatus, which control the dampers and keep the steam -pressure measurably uniform, as long as there is fuel of sufficient -quantity in the fire-pot. The hot-water apparatus is more uniform in its -operation than steam, and for that reason more satisfactory. - -A furnace plant is the most inexpensive apparatus that may be used for -general heating; the steam apparatus is next higher as to first cost, -though no more expensive in amount of fuel used. The hot-water apparatus -costs more than steam, and is somewhat more economical in the cost of -maintenance. It is probable that a house of moderate size can be warmed -all over at a less cost, as far as fuel is concerned, by a furnace or a -steam or hot-water heating apparatus than by stoves and grates. However, -grates are generally used in addition to these for the purpose of -comfort and appearance, and for ventilating. Under such circumstances, -they consume very little fuel. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - HEATING DEVICES AS WE FIND THEM.--FURNACE ESTIMATES.--COMBINATION - HOT AIR AND HOT WATER.--DISH-WARMING ARRANGEMENTS.--HOW TO GET A - GOOD HEATING APPARATUS. - - -For the present, people who build must take things as they find them, -and use heating and ventilating apparatus as regularly manufactured. -Experiments are uncertain. The theory of the proper heating and -ventilating of a house as set forth in previous chapter is correct. The -fulfilment of the ideas in dwelling-house heating remains to be -practically worked out. It is not the business of the architect, or the -housewife, or the owner of the house, to work out these mechanical -details. It will be done in time by competent mechanical experts. - -In the estimates subsequently given, the furnace is the only means -considered for general heating. However, this does not indicate a -prejudice in favor of that particular method. The furnace is considered -and figured upon as the ordinary method of heating houses of moderate -cost. It is the least expensive plant to be used for general heating. -Indirect radiation from hot water or steam is to be preferred to a -furnace. A combination of a hot-air furnace with hot water, or steam, is -used with fair success. In this case, a hot-water coil is placed in an -ordinary furnace, which connects with hot-water radiators in a -conservatory or other room for the purpose of contributing a uniform -degree of heat to that room. The water supply is a tank, located well -above the level of the radiators, and connecting through an inlet pipe -with the coil in the furnace. The proper means of supplying this tank -with water is through a ball-cock or float-cock, the float of which -opens the valve when the water gets low in the tank. Thus the supply is -as constant as the source. A hot-water radiator of this kind may be used -in connection with a device for warming dishes or keeping food warm. The -heat is gentle, uniform, and constant. This is a general advantage of -all hot-water heating. - -Aside from the automatic arrangements for controlling the steam or water -pressure in the heating apparatus, and thus measurably controlling the -temperature in the building, other more positive automatic arrangements -are provided which undertake to maintain any fixed temperature. These -are proprietary devices, patented and advertised. - -Complaints are made of the general inefficiency of everything under the -sun: hence, furnaces and other heating apparatus come in for their -share. An architect is sometimes asked how he would heat a certain -building. He answers, "Hot water, steam, or furnace."--"Oh, I wouldn't -have steam. My uncle had a steam plant in his house, and they nearly -froze to death all last winter; and they burned over a ton of coal a -week." The same things are said, and truly, of every kind of heating -apparatus made, when we consider them in general classes. General -complaints of a similar nature are made of everything. In regard to the -steam plant or hot-water apparatus, or anything else of which this thing -may have been said, one may first acknowledge its truthfulness, and then -consider what it all means. Something is at fault. It may be that the -whole design of the apparatus is faulty. The design may be right, and -the construction bad. Everything else may be right, but the apparatus -too small; or there may be some little defect which has to do with the -placing of the apparatus in the house. Sometimes, when everything is in -good form, the apparatus does not receive proper attention: hence -trouble. - -It may be asked how one is to get a good heating apparatus for a -dwelling-house. The first thing to be determined is, the particular kind -to be used: whether hot-water, steam, or hot-air furnace. There are many -manufacturers of the various apparatus, who are regularly in the -business. To these may be submitted plans of the building, and a request -for estimates and suggestions. It is the experience of an architect that -one who is putting money regularly in the manufacture or production of -anything will not waste his energies for a great length of time on a bad -thing, if he knows it. The evidence that an establishment has been -putting up good furnaces or other heating apparatus is long-continued -business success. If the owner of a house writes to an old-established, -wealthy concern, and sends his plans, he is as certain to get a reliable -proposition as he can be of anything. A local agent of an establishment -of this kind may misrepresent, unintentionally or otherwise. The surest -way is to go to headquarters. The local agent does not always know -exactly what should be done. A competent architect can settle all these -matters for an owner. However, if an architect says there are only one -or two furnaces or heating apparatus which are all right, he is either -ignorant or dishonest. There are many different kinds which will give -fair satisfaction. - -The idea in this chapter is to take things as we find them, and suggest -what may be done. The theories outlined in the previous chapter may be -correct, but they do not amount to anything to a man who is building -to-day. The only purpose of this chapter is to suggest to those who are -building that they go to a first-class house, pay a fair price, and get -the best possible apparatus regularly in the market. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - THE HOUSE AND ITS BEAUTY.--ARTISTIC SURROUNDINGS.--BEAUTY MORE A - MATTER OF INTELLIGENCE THAN MONEY.--VESTIBULE DECORATIONS.--BEAUTY - IN THE RECEPTION-HALL.--MANTELS AND GRATES.--FRET-WORK AND - PORTIERES.--SPINDLE WORK.--SIMPLE FORMS OF GOOD - DECORATION.--WOOD-CARVING.--DOOR AND WINDOW CASINGS.--A - CONSERVATORY.--STAINED GLASS.--A CABINET ON THE MANTEL.--TINTED - PLASTERING.--FRESCOING.--SAFETY IN THE SELECTION OF COLORS.--AN - ATTRACTIVE SITTING-ROOM.--THE PARLOR.--A RECEPTION-ROOM.--PARLOR - HISTORY.--THE IDEAL PARLOR.--THE LIBRARY.--A PLACE OF QUIET AND - REST.--LIBRARY FURNISHINGS.--THE DINING-ROOM.--SOCIAL RELATIONS OF - THE DINING-ROOM.--DINING-ROOM DECORATIONS.--CONSERVATORY AND - DINING-ROOM.--A WOOD CEILING.--BEAUTY IN BEDROOMS.--QUIET AND - LIGHT. - - -The journey through the house is hardly complete until we abandon the -material view, and consider it from the standpoint of beauty. As is said -in another connection, the architect does not do his full duty in making -a house a model of convenience and utility. The housekeeper always looks -toward a beautiful home, something that will be recognized for its -beauty and elegance. A house that is beautiful and attractive gives -pleasure to all who see it, as well as to the occupants. A beautiful, -artistic house is a source of education to the occupants. A porch with -clumsy columns, rude mouldings, heavy ceiling, coarse details of all -kinds, cannot but affect one's living. One that is fine in detail, -generous in size, decorated in artistic spirit, must of necessity not -alone contribute to the comfort of those who live in the house, but -serve to lift them from that which is common and ordinary. People may be -surrounded by that which is beautiful and artistic, and for a time fail -to realize its true excellence, or they may be surrounded with that -which is homely and crude without knowing the full measure of its -ugliness. The time must come, however, when the truth will be realized -to a certain extent. If it is in the direction of the appreciation of -what is beautiful, it must necessarily bring about a higher state of -mind. No man can walk across a front porch, time after time, and take -hold of a beautiful door, without being affected by it. For this reason -the vestibule, the front door, and all that belongs to it, should be -designed in a thoughtful spirit, with the idea that it is the first of -all things that will impress those who enter the house. There may not be -much money to put into this door, but what there is may as well bring -something beautiful as something ugly. The same money that will make an -ugly detail will make a beautiful, artistic one. If the glass of this -door must be inexpensive, let it be the ordinary cathedral glass. -Instead of being brilliant in color, select a soft, mild tint,--a light -amber or a straw color. If there are divisions in the door so that a -number of sheets may be used, two tints at most are all that are -necessary. It is best that they should be quiet in tone. If money is -more abundant, and an elaborate stained-glass design may be had, put the -work in the hands of an artist, one who is well known, and the result -cannot but be satisfactory. As to the door itself, nothing can be nicer -than natural wood, properly finished. The detail of the design should be -refined; there should be an avoidance of all that is clumsy and heavy. -The spirit of the interior may be stamped upon this door. Where one -cannot encompass the expense of an artistically designed glass for the -door or vestibule opening, a very pretty effect may be secured by the -use of a plain sheet of plate-glass; or, if desired, a slight additional -expense will give glass with bevelled edges. Sometimes this bevelled -glass is in small squares, with leaded joints. This gives a very simple -and rich effect from either side. - -As one opens this door and steps into the vestibule, there may come to -his sight a beautiful mantel and grate-fire in the reception-hall -beyond. This is particularly beautiful when shown through the folds of a -tapestry curtain which separates the vestibule from the reception-hall. -Sometimes this vestibule is arranged so that there is a small window at -one side of it. Nothing can be nicer than to have this filled with -glass, of the same general design as that of the door. The hooks for -wraps should be of polished brass, secured to a natural-wood strip. An -umbrella-stand of the same material is attractive. The floor is best of -hard wood, all but covered with a heavy rug. This is a pleasant place to -stop a moment, with a more beautiful view beyond. - -A reception-hall is, from an architectural standpoint, the easiest room -in the house to handle; that is, it can easily be made to look well. -This is because of its connection with the vestibule, the stairway, the -grate, often a window-seat, the large openings into the other rooms, and -the portieres which go with them. All these things combine well to make -a pretty room. Stairways, as now designed, are much more beautiful than -those made a few years ago. Then it was a habit to start at one end of -the hall and continue to the second floor in a single run, with winders -only at the upper end, to change the direction of the movement. Now it -is common to have at least two landings in each run; oftentimes there -will be only two or three steps, then a landing, from which steps lead -to another near the top. At the beginning of the stairway there are the -newel posts, and at each landing a corner post. This arrangement -frequently admits of the placing of a seat along one side of the outer -part of the lower landing. If not that, possibly one along the side of -the stairway, below the run of steps which starts from the lower -landing. The space between the railing and the steps is usually occupied -by turned balusters, though there are many forms of filling and -decorating this space. Sometimes it is of turned spindle-work, -scroll-work, fret-work, and squares or panels, arranged in different -forms. - -It is not unusual to have stained-glass windows at each landing. These -windows are not necessarily large, and are usually hung on hinges. -Sometimes a small bay-window projection is made from one or both of -these landings. In them may be placed seats, and in this way add beauty -and convenience to the room. It is quite usual to cover the -reception-hall with rugs rather than carpets. The hard-wood floor idea -probably had its origin in the reception-hall. If it ever takes its -departure it will be first from this room. If a hard-wood floor is not -largely covered with rugs it requires a great deal of labor. - -The mantel in the reception-hall should be of wood. It is pleasant to -have the larger part of the entire setting made of tile. These tiles are -now made in most beautiful designs and colorings. Beautiful figured -designs may be had, if not for the entire facing, for certain parts. It -is not uncommon that only a narrow margin of wood-work borders the sides -of a mantel of this kind. The shelf and cabinet above may be as -ornamental as desired. No treatment of wood-work can add to the beauty -of a large surface of tile facing. In some instances, no shelf is -provided; simply a bevelled facing, with a margin of woodwork, not over -an inch wide, to cover the joint where the tiling comes in contact with -the plaster. The hearth should be large. The grate border is best of -brass. - -The walls of the reception-hall may have a gray plaster finish, or be -tinted or papered, as desired. The picture moulding may come pretty well -down from the ceiling; certainly not higher than the tops of the doors. -The part below may be tinted in one color, and the upper, in another. -The picture moulding should always be of the same kind of wood as the -finish, and not gilded or treated in any other highly artificial manner. - -The openings into other rooms, even where sliding or hinged doors are -used, are frequently filled a short distance from their top with what is -popularly called fret-work. It may be fret-work, pure and simple, or -spindle-work, or simply scroll-work. It is a very pleasing form of -ornamentation. The curtains come below. In one of the plans furnished, -the entire vestibule is made up of turned work, which, with a curtain, -is the only separation from the main hall. Sometimes arches are -decorated in the same manner, and the space between the circle and frame -is filled with these ornamental forms. A very simple way of making -screens is by the use of thin quartered oak-strips, woven into basket -patterns of ornamental form. - -Only one general design of door and window casings is shown in this -book. There is no limit to the ornamental forms which may be used in -decorating casings of any kind. During recent years, many ladies have -used their energy and ability in the direction of wood-carving, and, -under competent instruction, have done good work. For the most part, the -patterns are in low relief. The designs are frequently conventionalized, -foliated patterns. In the smaller communities it is hardly possible to -get good carving through ordinary channels, for the reason that there -is not a sufficient amount of this kind of work to be done to justify a -high grade of talent in occupying so unprofitable a field. It is -unfortunately true, however, that very few workmen who can carve at all, -but have an idea that they do this kind of work exceedingly well. No -matter how crude their efforts may be, there is no lack of -self-appreciation. They profess to be able to do that of which they are -entirely ignorant. It is best to be content with the simple mechanical -forms of interior wood-decoration, unless there are those of known and -recognized ability, who are capable of executing the more artistic -patterns. - -Door and window casings are made much narrower and less complex than was -the custom several years ago. - -The sitting-room of the lower floor is more clearly defined by the term -"living-room." It is a room with much more wall space than the -reception-hall. It usually contains a grate and mantel; has a large -window to the front, and one on the side. It is very nice if one of -these windows can be arranged in the form of a bay, with or without a -window-seat. In the latter case, it may serve the purpose of a -conservatory in the winter and a window-seat in summer. The use of large -quantities of stained glass in a sitting-room is objectionable. It is -very well to have a certain amount of it in the upper sash of some of -the windows. If the colors are mild, the effect upon the atmosphere of -the room is pleasant indeed--the light coming through the soft amber or -straw tints adds a mellowness and richness to the light of the room, -which is opposed to the colder effects of light which comes through -white glass. The mantel of the sitting-room may contain a large number -of compartments in the form of small shelves, brackets, or cabinets, in -which may be placed bric-a-brac of various forms. A little cabinet on -each side of a mantel, with a high door, is a very pretty feature. A -mirror between these cabinets gives a pleasing effect. This mantel, like -the one in the reception-room, should be of wood with tile hearth and -facings. - -If this room is plastered in a gray finish, the walls may be tinted in -fresco colors, and, if desired, certain parts of it ornamented by -stencilling or otherwise. Unless this ornamental work is done by an -artist of recognized ability, it should be of the simplest character. -One or two simple lines, or a series of short dashes, is much better -than scrawling figures drawn by an untrained hand. The ordinary fresco -done by the foreign artist is the ugliest, most ungraceful work -possible. In the larger cities, there are usually a few artists who do -very beautiful work, but the ordinary, cheap, conventional fresco stuff -is barbarous. Plain tinted walls are preferable to such glaring -monstrosities. There is not much risk, if one is careful in the -selection of colors; the part above the picture moulding may be tinted -differently from that below. There are very few people but feel -themselves competent to select colors for the interior or exterior of a -house. The fact is, there are very few who can do it with any assurance -of success. It is well for those who have no special training in this -line to pursue a safe plan in the selection of tints for the walls and -ceilings. This may be done by choosing different shades of the same -color for use in the room. Say one begins with a terra-cotta body for -the part below the picture mould. That above the moulding may be a -lighter terra-cotta with a tendency to a buff. Then the ceiling may be -lighter still, or, to be entirely safe under almost any circumstances, a -gray with a leaning towards the color of the wall. Other colors may be -selected in the same way. Very light, vivid blues have frequently been -selected for ceilings, presumably because of the supposed resemblance -to the sky. It is certainly an illogical but by no means uncommon -thought. Soft, undecided grays are much pleasanter to those of quiet -tastes. There may be variations in it according to the character of the -wall decorations and surroundings. If one without special knowledge -wishes something more ambitious, he should consult some one of -acknowledged ability in this particular line. One cannot afford to try -experiments. Extremely beautiful wall decorations are to be had in -wall-paperings, and, while rather expensive, are entirely satisfactory -if carefully selected. - -Very little more may be said about the sitting-room, excepting to call -to mind that a great deal depends upon the fittings and furnishings of -the room, which, however, should not be glaring or rich. The quality of -everything may be of the finest and best, yet this room should -essentially be quieter in tone than the reception-hall or parlor, or -even dining-room, which are not in constant use. Anything which is rich -and in any way approaches the gorgeous is wearisome, and directly -opposed to the idea of a sitting-room. - -The parlor may be merely a reception-room,--a room where a lady may -receive her callers in the afternoon, or the more formal calls of ladies -and gentlemen in the evening, or it may be one room in addition to the -others in the lower part of the house. It may be the room which adds -capacity to the lower floor during times of general entertaining. In -some cases, particularly where the parlor is merely used as a -reception-room, it need not be large. In such a case it is merely a -place separated from the sitting-room, and in which to go for the -purpose of receiving friends in a room somewhat removed from the slight -confusion which may legitimately belong to a sitting-room. The parlor is -made distinctive in its appearance from the sitting-room by its -furnishings. It is not usual to have any great difference in the design -of the wood-work in the different rooms of the lower floor. Generally -speaking, the doors are of the same design, and likewise the casings, -base, etc. The parlor belongs particularly to the society life of the -occupants of the house. It is not generally a family room. It is removed -from the ordinary home life except in so far as the general social -conditions draw all together. The parlor, in its connection with the -living-rooms of the house, and the house itself, is entirely legitimate. -There is a good deal of sneering at the old parlor idea. This feeling -has its origin in the memory of the parlors of a few years ago,--those -which contained the one Brussels carpet, covered with red and green -flowers, furnished with black hair-cloth furniture, chairs arranged -around the wall in military style, a sofa--stiff of back and commanding -an attitude--in a most conspicuous position; walls covered with -coarse-figured, gilt paper, and rendered more offensive by cheap, family -portraits in oil, and elaborately framed chromos. - -The parlor of to-day is still a formal room; it does not greatly differ -from the older one in idea; it is the execution of the idea which has -changed. There is a greater refinement in all the details; there is an -artistic spirit which pervades everything. There is harmony of color, -quietness in tone. The pictures are of a different character. The -furniture is graceful and comfortable. It is rarely separated from the -other part of the house. The doors leading into it are nearly always -open. Oftentimes there are only portieres of tapestry or lace to -separate this room from the others which lead to it. It is a room which -is made necessary by the social life of the time. - -The ideal parlor is a long room,--a large room. It is long in -proportion to its width. Sometimes there is an archway near the middle, -which suggests the division of the room into two parts. There is a -mirror at the end, and, lending dignity to the room, there is the hall -or library at one side. By its size, its arrangement, its dignity, it is -inspiring to a congenial company. This is the ideal parlor, and the one -of which the vulgarly furnished parlor of a few years ago was a -corruption. The ideal parlor is shown in its completest original form in -some of the old mansions of the East and South. Some of the old Virginia -and Maryland houses carry out this idea in the completest way. In -Natchez, Miss., are houses built long before the war, and designed by -the French architects, which contain parlors of splendid proportions and -most artistic details. These were designed in the purest classic -architecture. The ceilings were high, the paintings rich. All this is -somewhat removed from the common idea of a parlor as carried out at this -time. However, it is a pleasant thing to look back upon, or, when the -opportunity and means are at hand, a proper thing to enjoy in the -reality. - -The library, as now understood, is, in the ordinary house, a room for -books, papers, and magazines, in which the members of the family may -gather, who have use for that which it contains. It should be a room -which may be isolated from the other parts of the house; a room in which -one may study or read or write, and have the quiet which belongs to such -occupations. A room which may be used as a passage from one part of the -house to another cannot be dignified by the name of library. In such a -room there must be quiet. There are very few homes to which such a room -would not be a material and practical addition. There are times when -nearly every one desires the quiet and freedom from interruption which a -room of this kind affords. - -It need not be a large room, but should contain all of the paraphernalia -of work: a desk, conveniently arranged, bookshelves which are readily -accessible, possibly portfolios arranged along the walls, drawers with -proper compartments, cases for circulars and catalogues, and other -"places for things." The nicest thing about book-cases is the books. -Ornamental glass doors and rich trappings add nothing to the beauty of -the library. People who make large use of books do not care to have them -protected by glass cases. The other furnishings and fittings of a -library should be quiet in tone, the chairs easy but not rich, the -carpet of a neutral color, the wall decorations preferably without -figured outlines, the pictures small and quiet. Sliding doors between -the library and any other room of the house are not to be considered. -Close-fitting doors on hinges are proper. They exclude the sound. -Sliding doors permit the ready passage of sound, for the reason that -they are more or less open at top, bottom, middle, and sides. A low -ceiling in a library adds to the quiet and restful effect. One may have -a low ceiling in a library, even if they are higher in other rooms, by -studding down from above,--that is, putting in a false ceiling. The -expense is light indeed, and by such means additional protection from -the sounds above may be afforded. - -The dining-room, in many houses, is the room in which the entire family -is gathered, perhaps for the only time during the day. In this sense it -is an assembly room. There is in this busy country a growing respect for -the social value of the dining-room. In the family meetings at the -table, there may be an interchange of experiences that does not occur at -other times, for the reason that there is no opportunity for it. After -the meals the members of the family go to their various occupations, and -probably do not come together until another meal. These facts may be -considered in the planning of a dining-room. - -We have thought of this room before in its mechanical sense; we have -looked at it through housekeeping eyes. We have now to consider its -artistic and social features. We look at it as one of the family rooms. -It has its shape or proportion suggested to it from the table. It is -oblong. The light coming into it should be ample, but subdued in tone. -It is pleasant, as one enters a dining-room, to come into full view of a -sideboard which is decorated with that which belongs to this room in a -utilitarian way--its china, cut glass, and beautiful linen, than which -nothing can be more attractive. - -It is a pleasant thing to have a conservatory attached to one side or at -a corner of the dining-room. The odor of flowers or plants may not be -agreeable constantly in a sitting-room. The periodical occupation of the -dining-room makes this pleasant rather than otherwise. Most of the plans -which are shown will admit of the placing of a conservatory in -connection with the dining-room in the manner indicated. - -The old English dining-room was large in its general proportions, and -heavy and rich as to its details; it was so large and impressive that -there was an offshoot which took form in a breakfast-room. In our homes -at this time we have the compromise. Our habits of living do not demand -the breakfast-room: all come to breakfast together, and the requirement -is the same as for other meals. - -Where one wishes to have a wood ceiling panelled or with decorated -beams, the dining-room, or the hall connecting with it, may be chosen as -the proper place to be treated in this way. Where expense is not a great -object, it is agreeable to have a large part of the walls finished in -wood. A wood finish one-half to two-thirds the height of the wall, and -a ceiling of wood above, with the intervening space finished in rough, -tinted plaster, gives a very pleasing effect. Projecting from the top of -the wood wall-finish may be a little shelf extending, say, five inches -beyond the wall. It may have a simple moulded edge. In the top may be -cut grooves; on the under edge may be arranged, at regular intervals, -cup hooks, which may be used in part for suspending china, or, upon -certain occasions, as a means of securing floral decorations--say, a -little train of ivy or smilax. On the upper part of the shelf are placed -pieces of china. This shelf may be placed in any dining-room; if not -around the entire room, between two windows, or between the chimney -breast and the adjacent wall. Six feet from the floor is a good height. -If it is not overloaded, or if the idea is not generally overworked, the -effect will be very satisfactory. - -The coloring of a dining-room may be a little heavier and richer than -that of the other rooms. A very pretty feature which maybe introduced in -a room of this kind is a china-closet, which opens into the dining-room -as well as into the china-room adjoining. The dining-room side of the -china-closet should be glazed with clear glass above its lower section, -and the china-room or back side of the china-closet should be glazed -with cathedral glass of a semi-transparent character. There are doors on -hinges on each side. The drawers in the lower part, if provided, open -from both sides. If doors are used they should be arranged in the same -way, so that the lower shelves may be approached from both dining-room -and china-room. The glass door on the dining-room side should not come -down to the shelf at the top of the lower section, but should be -arranged to leave an open space, as is indicated in the chapter on -kitchens and pantries. However, the doors on the china-room side of -this closet should come down, so as to cut off communication between -dining-room and china-room at will. This space between the upper and -lower section of the china-closet gives space in which to set a tray, -and, by opening a door on the back, it acts as a slide between the -china-room and dining-room. This arrangement is not only very beautiful, -but very useful. See china-closet plan Fig. 5, page 46. - -The conservatory mentioned does not need to be in conventional -conservatory form, which usually has cheap glazing and often common -wood-work, but may be a bay-window with more than an ordinary amount of -glass, preferably plate. - -The chambers and bedrooms, in their ideal form of arrangement, have an -abundance of light and sun, ample means for ventilation, and a greater -air of restfulness and airiness than the rooms below. The carpets are in -lighter tints, the walls more nearly white, the windows not so heavily -draped, the pictures and frames of a lighter character, the chairs not -so heavy as those of the other rooms. From a chamber it is sometimes -desirable to have a bay window projecting from side or front. It adds to -the availability of the other floor space, affords additional light and -ventilation. Nothing can be nicer than a grate fire in a bedroom. It -should be surrounded with a wood mantel, with tile facing and hearth. -Above the mantel it is useful to have a short plate-glass mirror. A -dressing-case takes its proper place on the side wall between two -windows, or in a corner with a window in each wall adjacent to it. -Bedrooms are, for the most part, lighted with brackets rather than -central lights. When attainable, a small dressing-room adds to the -attractiveness of a chamber. - -In some houses there may be an alcove, a bay window, a window-seat, a -conservatory, or something of this kind, from every principal room. -These are features which add to the beauty and attractiveness of the -house. While all of these things are not possible in every home, some -one or two of them may be attainable. In mentioning the various details -which go to make the beauty of a house, it is in mind that all these -features can be taken into account in but a very small proportion of all -the houses that are built, yet some one or more of them may be used in -every house, and thereby add to its attractiveness. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - EXTERNAL AND INTERNAL DESIGN.--AN OLD TOPIC BEFORE THE PEOPLE.--THE - ARCHITECTURAL STUDENT'S DREAM.--A BEAUTIFUL HOME THE HOUSEKEEPER'S - AMBITION.--IT COSTS NO MORE TO HAVE A HOUSE BEAUTIFUL THAN - UGLY.--ARCHITECTURAL EDUCATION.--CHARLES EASTLAKE'S BOOK.--VULGAR - ARCHITECTURAL REVIVALS.--THE GROWTH OF THE ARTISTIC IDEA.--BEAUTY A - MATTER OF REFINEMENT. - - -It often happens when one gives especial attention to a particular -branch of a subject his neglect in other lines is measured by the depth -of his attention to the particular branch. Matters which have to do with -the utilitarian features of house-building are considered in this work -much more fully in the text, than has the appearance of the buildings. -It is desired that this fact will not lead any one to believe that -matters relating to the appearance of the exterior have been neglected. -Domestic architecture is an old topic before the people. It is old in -what has been said in regard to the appearance of the buildings. The -subject, as a science to the architect, is new when considered from the -standpoint of convenience. The architectural student's dream is not of -kitchens, pantries, closets, convenient and economical arrangements of -floor space, but is principally of large public buildings, libraries, -court-houses, and cathedrals. When he descends to dwelling-houses, it is -of something unique, or odd,--something that is pretty or rich. When it -relates to details, it is hallways that are peculiar in their beauty, -parlors and sitting-rooms that are full of odd conceits. There has been -a tendency toward strange things during recent years. Matters of this -kind have fed the fancy of many architects. The housekeeper has been -neglected. - -Nothing attracts more attention than a beautiful house. It is a pleasure -to every one. It is as important to have a house beautiful as it is that -it should be convenient. The same education and thoughtfulness that will -enable an architect to design a convenient house will make it beautiful. -No one can be conscientious in the consideration of the comfort of the -housekeeper and neglect the smallest detail leading to the beauty of the -house. The housekeeper lives in the hope of having a beautiful home. It -has been the purpose, in writing this book, to bear all this in mind, -and to add the element of convenience to what has been said and done by -others toward making beautiful houses. - -It costs no more to have a house beautiful than to have it ugly. Beauty, -like convenience, is largely a matter of thoughtfulness and education. -The only excuse for ugliness in house-building is ignorance. The student -of architecture has had a great deal done for him. And, in considering -that which has to do with appearance, he has only to accept the -advantages of the best architectural schools and offices. Without these -he cannot expect to succeed. To be a designer of beautiful houses, one -must have had the same special training and advantages that are -necessary for success in other lines of professional work. A physician -must know the history of his profession, aside from the more formal -knowledge which leads him through his practice. It is the same way with -the student of architecture. The successful designer of a small cottage -will do better from having a knowledge of the history of early -architecture. Such a knowledge is indispensable, in order to reach the -best results. One who has made a study of Greek architecture is much -better equipped to design a beautiful low-cost cottage, of four or five -rooms, than one who has not availed himself of these advantages. He will -make a better house for the same money. He will do better work with -simpler means. To take another illustration: We may suppose that an -architect has a porch to design, and that the owner of the house does -not have a great deal of money to put in it. There are four turned -columns, a cornice, with a rafter finish, and underneath, a space in -which may be inserted a small band of inexpensive scroll-work. A -knowledge of the earlier architecture comes to his assistance in a -wonderful way. For the turning on the columns the architect may select -that from a column of the early English Gothic architecture of the -fourteenth century. These are simple profiles, which can be turned at no -greater cost, if the drawing is furnished, than some crude, modern -invention of the turner or an uneducated designer. For the jig or scroll -saw work, he can arrange figures from some of the earlier ornamental -forms of the same period, and by drawing them full size the -scroll-sawyer can reproduce a beautiful design, which has a history, -with no more labor than he would give some corrupted design which has -filtered through the minds of careless house-builders. For his rafter -feet, this designer will have no difficulty in recalling some simple -form which has had a refined development. This same line of procedure -can be followed in all details of house-building, and not add one dollar -to the cost of the structure. At the same time it brings about most -beautiful results,--the results of successful experience. - -It may be said again that it takes no more money to make a beautiful -detail--one which has been the development of experience and -refinement--than it does something which is clumsy and coarse. It -requires, however, a knowledge of what has been done,--a knowledge of -the history of design. It requires the faculty of using intelligently -the results of the past, not merely as they originally existed, but in -their adaptation to the wants and conditions of the present. - -Several years ago Mr. Charles Eastlake wrote a book entitled "Hints on -Household Taste." The book accomplished a great deal, by merely leading -people to think. To this day there are a great many architectural -features which, in the builder's parlance, go under the name of -"Eastlake" designs. There are so-called Eastlake doors, Eastlake frames, -etc. In truth, Mr. Eastlake had little to say about architecture in a -distinctive sense, and many evil things have been perpetrated in his -name. The best thing that Mr. Eastlake did was to teach people that the -furniture and other things which they had around them could be beautiful -and not expensive. That it was not necessary to have a chair or a piece -of wood-work loaded down with something called ornament, in order to be -beautiful. After this people lost confidence in the furniture -manufacturer, and did not depend solely on the price of his wares as a -measure of their elegance or attractiveness. This was the sole work of -Charles Eastlake, with the masses of the people. He was a missionary in -his way. A man of no particular knowledge in regard to architecture or -design, yet one who was the means of doing a great deal for -architecture. He taught people to look for beauty in simple things. - -After a time came a certain something in domestic architecture which was -designated as the "Queen-Anne" style. We all know what it is, yet it is -difficult to describe. The veritable Queen-Anne architecture meant -something; the "Queen-Anne" architecture of a few years ago meant -anything--particularly something that was pointed, erratic, and -unusual. It, however, did a good work. It enabled the architects to get -out of the old beaten paths. A great many beautiful houses were built, -which, by the public, were said to be in this style. The name "Queen -Anne" was the vehicle for the passage from an old conservatism, which -had to do only with the commonplace, to something which was fresh and -attractive. In this way a great many beautiful houses were built during -this so-called Queen-Anne revival. - -More recently there has been a movement toward the revival of the old -colonial architecture--a style that was developed by a class of educated -builders among the earlier settlers of this country. Their knowledge was -particularly of classic architecture of the period of the Italian -renaissance. A great many strange and unusual things are being -perpetrated in the name of old colonial architecture at this time. At -the same time, a great deal that is beautiful and refined is being built -in this style. In the work of the very recent period which has to do -with this architecture, one may find a great deal of encouragement. It -shows a decided re-action from the extravagant crudeness of the -so-called Queen-Anne architecture, and in the end we will reach -something that is rational and beautiful. - -Thus it is to be seen that, in whatever lines architecture is moving, we -shall find good work; that it is not so much the style that it is named, -as the resources of the designer: resources which have to do with his -education, and his disposition to select that which is fine and -beautiful--the sense which leads him to discriminate. - -[Illustration: FIGURE B.] - - - - -PLANS OF FIFTY CONVENIENT HOUSES. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - EVOLUTION OF A HOUSE-PLAN.--RESPECTABLE DIMENSIONS FOR A MODERATE - PRICE.--SIX PLANS.--COSTS, FROM $1,500 TO $2,600. - - -The number of times that a house has been built indicates the popularity -of the plan. Plan No. 1, in one form or another, has been used oftener -than any other in the book. Plans Nos. 1, 2, and 3 are more frequently -selected by people who do not keep a servant. This arrangement makes a -compact and low-cost house. There is a porch over which the small front -bedroom extends on the second story. In Plan No. 1 the hall is seven and -one-half by ten feet. There is a corner grate for the living-room and -the parlor. A stove might be used in the dining-room in a way to -moderate the temperature of the entire lower floor. - -There is one very large window opening into the dining-room. It is a -very pleasing thing to have the upper sash of the dining-room glazed -with simple colors of cathedral glass. This glass gives a very pleasant -tone to the light of the room, and, at the same time, excludes the hot -rays of the sun in summer. It is possible to dispense with outside -shutters when cathedral glass is used in the upper sashes. A metal rod -running across the window on the inside, on a level with the horizontal -dividing-rail of the window, may be made to carry curtains which will -exclude the view from the outside. Thus, in the glass, and by the aid of -the curtains, we have much that might be expected from the shutters. - -There is a china-pantry between the kitchen and dining-room. It is -lighted by a small window at one side. It serves as a passageway between -these two rooms, and thus keeps the odor of the cooking from the front -part of the house. The pastry pantry is immediately back of the -china-pantry, and is entered from the kitchen. It is also provided with -a small window. In the kitchen is a sink with a swinging table at one -side, and room for a portable table on the other. At one side of the -sink may be the cistern-pump, and on the other side the well-pump. It -should be placed back against the wall, and with handles that are well -out of the way when not in use. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 1.] - -It is entirely unnecessary to place the pumps in the yards of low-cost -houses, as is so common. If a driven well is used, it could be driven -so as to be next to the kitchen sink. If it is a dug well, it may be -placed on the outside, and connected through lead pipes with the sink on -the inside. The cistern may be connected in the same way. The entrance -to the cellar stairs is conveniently placed in one corner of the -kitchen. The cellar itself is under the sitting-room. The side-porch is -large enough to be used as a summer kitchen. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 2.] - -It is to be noticed that there is no waste room in the upstairs hall. -There is merely wall space enough to admit of doors leading into the -various rooms. There is a small window which lights this hall; the -window may be reached for cleaning from the stairway. This plan -illustrates as clearly as possible the advantage of having the main -stairway land in the middle of the house. There is no better way to -economical use of space. From the second-floor hall there is a stairway -leading to the attic. This passage is lighted in the same way as the -second-floor hall. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 3.] - -It may be said that the bedrooms of this house are not large. The house -is not large. The problem involved a low-cost, roomy house. We get a -large number of rooms within a small enclosure, and, necessarily, some -of them are small. It is to be borne in mind, however, that the value of -a room is not dependent upon its size. A room may be of respectable -dimensions, but yet not have the necessary wall space for the furniture. -Such a room would not be as satisfactory as a smaller one, had care been -taken to provide this space. In each bedroom there should be space for a -bed, a wash-stand, and a dressing-case. The latter should be near a -window. It will be found that there is room for such furniture in each -of the bedrooms shown on this plan. All are provided with ample closets. -In one of these houses which was built, there was a door between the -bedroom in front and the chamber. In another case, there was a door -connecting the two larger rooms. All these things are matters of -personal preference, or special family requirements, depending upon the -age and number of the children, and other family conditions. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 4.] - -Plan No. 2 is similar to No. 1, excepting that there are a few changes -in detail. The rooms are smaller; the hall is relatively shorter; it -illustrates the process of contraction. No. 3 is similar to No. 2, -excepting that it has a front as well as a rear stairway, and the -position of the dining-room is changed. - -No. 4 is a development of the same class of plans. There are the front -and the rear stairways, also a bath-room over the kitchen, and a -servant's room. The dotted lines running through the little bedroom on -the second floor indicate the position of a hall, which may be -constructed connecting the front and rear part of this house. As will be -noticed, this is a nine-room house in a very economical form. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 5.] - -Plan No. 5 is a further development and improvement of the same idea. -The objection that one may raise to any of the plans just described is, -that one has to pass through the parlor, or the room in the rear of the -hall, to reach the room back of the parlor. Plan No. 5 solves this -problem. From the hall we can go into the living-room, the dining-room -or parlor, without passing through another room. The second floor is an -improvement over No. 4, in that the little bedroom in the rear is -enlarged by allowing it to project over the room below the width of the -hall. In the rear of this comes the bath-room. - -[Illustration: FIGURE 10.] - -As to cost. The building, without appurtenances, on the basis outlined -in schedule "B," would cost as follows:-- - -Plan No. 1, $1,700; No. 2, $1,550; No. 3, $1,550; No. 4, $1,800; No. 5, -$1,900. Figures 8 and 9 are elevations suited to these plans. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 6] - -Plan No. 6 had its origin in Plan No. 1, and was developed through the -successive stages indicated in the description of plans from 1 to 5 -inclusive. The position of the grate-stack has been changed, so that it -acts for the reception-hall on one side, and the parlor on the other. -The reception-hall, instead of receding, projects. In one corner -thereof is arranged a vestibule, partitioned from the rest of the rooms -by ornamental fret-work backed with curtains. This will make a very -beautiful feature. It changes this hall into a room. From here we may -pass to the parlor, sitting-room, and dining-room. In the rear of the -sitting-room is a porch; at one side, a projecting window-seat. The -sitting-room closet is cut off from the pantry. The dining-room is -connected with the sitting-room by sliding-doors. A convenient -china-closet connects the dining-room and kitchen. On one side of the -china-room are arranged drawers. Under the china-closet proper are -shelves enclosed by panelled doors; the china-shelves above being -protected by glass doors, according to the general ideas previously -expressed when considering the china-closet in particular. The kitchen -is the same as others, which are described elsewhere in a more detailed -way. There is a laundry in the basement, and an outside cellar-way -connecting with the back yard. The inside cellar-way is shown. The next -door is that which leads to the second floor. There are five bedrooms on -this floor. The elevation of this house is shown in Fig. No. 11. The -building, without appurtenances, according to schedule "B," costs -$2,600. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8] - -[Illustration: Fig. 9] - -Elevations Nos. 1 and 2 indicate a simple form of exterior, which may go -with either of these plans excepting No. 3. - -The photographic view, Fig. No. 10, shows an exterior of No. 1, as built -at one time. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11.] - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - A SMALL POCKET-BOOK AND A LARGE IDEA.--AMBITION, DOLLARS, AND A - GOOD HOUSE.--THE GROWTH OF THE HOUSEKEEPER'S IDEAS.--POINTS ABOUT - THE HOUSE.--$2,900. - - -It is frequently said of those who would build, that their ideas are -larger than their pocket-books. It is certainly not discreditable to any -one that his ideas should be larger than his immediate resources. Such a -condition causes the enlargement of the individual and his pocket-book -at the same time. The man who says that he wants two thousand dollars' -worth of house does not get as much for his money as he who in effect -says, "I want three thousand dollars' worth of house for two thousand -dollars." The latter is an ambitious man; the former has only a little -ambition. He merely wants a house. Fortunately, however, there are few -such people. It is more likely to happen that a man and his wife, who -have worked hard for several years, get enough money together to build a -home, and it is possible that this home has been talked about for -several years previous to their building. In fact, they have been -educating themselves in house-building. They have acquainted themselves -with all of the modern conveniences. They have studied porches, -vestibules, and stairways; they know how many rooms they want on the -first floor and the bedrooms that they will have above. At first this -house presents itself in a very crude form; but in the course of time -the plan shows itself more clearly to them. They begin to place the -furniture in the imaginary rooms, and as they do this their ideas -enlarge. They add at first inches, and then feet, to the size of the -various rooms. At first their ideas of a kitchen were quite moderate; in -time a sink begins to assume certain vague outlines, then it takes -definite form on one side of the room; then a pump is placed beside it; -afterward the wife says, "How nice it would be if we could have a -hot-water faucet over the sink." At first they shake their heads and say -that it would cost too much; but in the course of a few evenings' talk -on this and kindred subjects, they come to the conclusion that if the -hot-water arrangements do not cost too much, they will have them; and -that as things are so much cheaper than they used to be, they certainly -ought to get all of these for about what they originally expected to pay -for the house. Their ideas have been of slow growth, but continuous, and -in the aggregate the growth has been great. During all the winter -months, previous to the time when they would build in the spring, many -sketches are made, of the floor-plans of the house that is to be. -Finally the net result is handed to a builder or an architect,--more -frequently the former, as most small houses are built without -professional service. The figures from the builder come in, and are very -much higher than was expected. It is quite a shock, for certainly there -is nothing there that they can well do without. Everything has been -thought of so much. Nothing that their plan contains appears to them to -be less than a matter of necessity. Other builders are asked to figure -with results little more satisfactory. In the end there must be a -compromise; the builder and the owner both yield, and, as a result, a -very satisfactory house is built. There are little things which they -would have different, but, in the main, the house is satisfactory. - -This is the universal experience, and the effect upon the domestic -architecture of this country has been very pronounced. We can now get a -better house for a given sum of money than ever before. Better not only -as to general construction, but as well on account of external -appearance, and the convenience of its internal arrangements. One may -get more of what are regarded as the little conveniences, which mean so -much to the housekeeper. This is not altogether the result of lower -prices of the material and labor which go to make a house, but is as -well on account of the skill which has been developed in planning and -arranging buildings, with reference to economy in space, and cost of -general construction. The planning of houses has undergone a revolution -within a few years past; and instead of having the long, narrow halls at -the side and in the middle of a house, and the long halls and narrow -passages through the upper floor, all of which was ugly and -inconvenient, we now have the same area thrown in large square rooms, so -as to be available. - -It may be known that chimney stacks are quite expensive. For this reason -an effort has been made to group them, so that they may be made to -answer for a number of rooms; and the success with which efforts in this -direction have been attended has been wonderful indeed. The modern floor -plan is altogether different from that of the past; it is more -convenient and less expensive to build; and, as said before, this is -largely the result of efforts of the owner, who has ideas larger than -his pocket-book, and the architect or builder, who exercises his -ingenuity to bring the ideas and the money together. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 7] - -Plan No. 7 is of an eight-room house, and is fairly representative of -the ideas expressed. The general form, it will be seen, is square. It is -a two-story house with a reception-hall, parlor, dining-room, kitchen, -china-closet, pantry, and stair-hall on the first floor; there are -three chambers, the servant's bedroom, the bath-room, and a -communicating hall on the second floor. The first floor is ten feet six -inches high, and the second, nine feet six inches. From the second floor -there is a stairway going to the attic, which is large and roomy, and -which may have various uses. The cellar is seven feet high, and is well -lighted by having the joist set well up from the grade line. There may -be a laundry here, and, separated from it by a door, we may have a -coal-cellar and a furnace-room. As we approach the house, there is, -first, a broad porch about eight feet in width, and fourteen feet in -length. At a slight additional expense, say fifty dollars to sixty -dollars, this porch might be extended across the entire front. Before -reaching the front door, there is a small vestibule,--arranged with or -without storm-doors, as may be thought desirable. It is the impression -of the writer that storm-doors are seldom used. The distinctive feature -of this house is the hall, which is large enough--thirteen feet six -inches by fifteen feet--to be used as a sitting-room. In the front part -of this hall, and at the right as we enter, are a window-seat and a -broad window in front and immediately above it; this is slightly -separated from the main room by the small pilasters or casings on each -side. Immediately in front of the doorway, there are a grate and mantel -set in one corner of the room. There are large doorways, five feet wide, -leading into the stair-hall immediately back of this room, and into the -parlor at the left as we enter. In this case there are merely door -openings, portieres or curtains taking the place of ordinary doors. -Sliding-doors might be used in addition to the curtains, and thus have -the advantage of both curtains and doors. From this room the outlines of -the stair-hall and the stairway are visible or not, according to the -arrangement of the portieres. There is a side entrance into this hall, -and from it one may go into the kitchen by passing through two doors. It -is a good principle in planning a house always to have two doors between -the kitchen and any other part of the house. One door could as well be -used in this instance, but a second one is added to make the isolation -more complete. In the plan here given, it may be noticed that there are -cellar stairs passing under the main stairway in the hall. - -The dining-room may be entered either from the front parlor or from the -stair-hall. In each case doors are used. It is always desirable to have -a dining-room so arranged that it may be closed from the other parts of -the house. There is a grate in each of the two principal rooms, the -hall, the parlor, and the dining-room, and all communicate with a single -stack. This is much more economical than having three distinct stacks, -which are so frequently used for accomplishing the same result. The only -other chimney stack is in the kitchen. The two answer every purpose. -The outside corners of the dining-room are cut off at an angle of -forty-five degrees, so that the end of the dining-room presents the form -of a large bay window. In the middle space at this end may be placed the -sideboard, in which event a window will be placed over it,--that is, -well toward the ceiling. The dining-room communicates with the kitchen -through a large pantry, eight feet square, or through a slide in the -back of the china-closet. In the kitchen there are broad windows on the -two sides, and a door leading into the back yard. - -In following the stairway to the second floor, it will be noticed that -there is a broad landing something more than half-way up, and that there -is a large window, slightly above it, which lights the hall below, and -partially lights the one above. The advantages of having a stairway -which lands approximately in the centre of the house, as does this one, -is that no room is lost by having long halls which have to lead from the -front to the rear of the house. All we need have is a short hall in the -centre of the building, which will communicate with the rooms around it. -Another convenience of this arrangement is that all of the front of the -house is utilized for chambers. Where the stairway lands in the front of -a house, there must either be a long hall, which is a waste of room, or -one must pass through one or more chambers to get to others. In this -plan the rooms are arranged around the hall, there being three large -ones over the three principal rooms below. In each of these chambers -there is abundant space for the usual bedroom furniture,--viz., a bed, -dresser, wash-stand, and chairs. In these rooms there are closets, and -at the end of the hall there is a store closet for bedding, etc. The -servant's room, as shown, is over the kitchen, as is also the bath-room. - -[Illustration: Fig. 12.] - -It may be noticed that the fixtures in the bath-room--that is, the -bath-tub and closet--are directly over the sink below, so that the pipes -may have the most direct and the shortest runs possible, which is not -only economical, but also safer from flooding in case of accident. The -tank in the attic, which contains the soft or cistern water, is directly -over the tub, and the laundry sink in the cellar is directly under the -kitchen sink. Thus, from cellar to attic, all the plumbing fixtures are -in line, and all pipes exactly vertical, excepting where it is desirable -to take a short branch to connect the fixtures. Having the bath-room -slightly separated, as it is, from the main hall, it is safer, from a -sanitary point of view, than if it opened directly into the main hall. -There is a closet for soiled linen next to the bath-room, which is -accessible either from it or from the short hall leading to it. The -stairs to the attic lead out of the hall, as shown. The attic is -floored, but is otherwise unfinished. If found desirable, one or more -rooms could be finished here, which would be quite as large and pleasant -as any of the other rooms in the house. This house can be finished -complete, including fences, sheds, walks, gas fixtures, plumbing, -mantels, and furnace, for $2,900. - -Fig. No. 12 is an elevation. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - "WE KNOW WHAT WE WANT."--A CONVENIENT PLAN.--MEETING THE WANTS OF - PEOPLE WHO BUILD. - - -Floor plans develop from the varying necessities of those who build. -There is no reason why the same arrangement should suit any large number -of people. A floor plan, if carefully and thoughtfully made, will meet -the requirements of the individuals whose wants are particularly -considered. While there are certain general principles, which affect the -value of a floor plan for good or evil, the detailed requirements are -almost as varied as the tastes and dispositions of the occupants. - -A lady and gentleman come into an architect's office, and explain that -they are intending to build, and want to look at something with a view -of selecting a plan. The architect has a great many plans which he might -show them, but he knows well enough that none of them will be selected. -He says:-- - -"I shall be glad to show you anything I have, but not with the -expectation of finding something that will please you. By doing so, I -shall probably find out what you do not want, and in that negative way -meet your requirements." - -"I think I know what we want," says the lady, "but I do not know just -how to arrange it. The stairways bother me, and there are things which I -do not get to suit me." - -"Well, tell me what, you want, and then we will make a sketch; and from -that, corrections; and, in the end, we shall probably have something -satisfactory, though not wholly so at once." - -"Before we go any farther," says the gentleman, "I want to say that we -have only twenty-five hundred dollars to put into a house." - -"Yes, that is all we can afford," says the lady; "but I can tell you -what we want." - -The architect reaches for a note-book and a piece of paper. - -"We want a reception-hall, with a grate and stairway in it. There must -be a small vestibule, with a place for overshoes, hats, and overcoats. -Somewhere near the reception-hall, or in it, I want a closet where I can -put my own wraps, and those of the children, and other things which I do -not care to keep upstairs, and yet wish to have out of the way. It does -not need to be a large closet, but must not be unusually small. We want -a parlor and dining-room, which connect with the reception-hall. The -parlor will be used as a sitting-room not a little, but not in the -ordinary way, for the reason that I stay upstairs with the children most -of the time. I do my sewing there. If I should use the parlor regularly -as the sitting-room, I could receive my callers in the reception-hall. -It would be nice if we could have some kind of a window-seat in that -room. We want a grate in the sitting-room, but not necessarily one in -the dining-room. I want a back stairway, but it must not go up directly -from the kitchen. The kitchen and pantry I want you to make as -convenient as possible in a house of this cost." - -"How would a combination stairway do?" - -"Oh, I don't want that at all. It would be bringing the two together. I -want the rear stairway in the rear of the house, and entirely separate -from the one in front. It should land near the girl's room on the second -floor, so that it can be cut off from the rest of the house. We must -have plenty of closet-room upstairs." - -"How many children have you?" - -"Two: a baby and a little boy about six years old." - -"Then you must have at least four bedrooms," was suggested. "For the -present, the baby can sleep in your room, and the boy in a room next to -and connecting with it. There must also be a guest's room and a -servant's room." - -"Yes, that will have to do for the present; but don't forget the -bath-room, and be sure to have plenty of closets. There is one thing I -had almost forgotten. There must be some arrangement so that the servant -can get from the kitchen to the front door without going through the -dining-room; but we don't want the smells of the kitchen to get into the -front part of the house." - -After two or three sketches had been made, the result, as here -illustrated, was reached. The architect has it in mind that the space at -the right of the entrance door in the vestibule would serve as a place -for overcoats and other winter equipments. He suggests that a portiere -be placed between the vestibule and the opening leading into the -reception-hall. This will prevent draughts of cold air from making their -way into the front room when the door is opened. It will also lend a -certain amount of privacy. The porch is placed in front, as a matter of -course. In the recess of the hall which is made by the vestibule a -window-seat is placed. In the rear of the reception-hall is the closet -required. As a means of getting from the kitchen to the reception-hall -without passing through the dining-room, two doors are arranged leading -to a passage under the stairs. This will prevent the passage of kitchen -odors over the house. The parlor and dining-room are arranged as shown. -Between the window and the door leading to the china-closet is space for -the sideboard. The pantry is separated from the china-closet by the -cupboard of the former. It has doors above and shelves below. The -ice-chest is placed in the pantry. It is readily accessible from both -china-closet and kitchen. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 8.] - -The passageway to the second floor is from this room, and, considering -the limited means and large general requirements, this arrangement will -no doubt be satisfactory. The stairway is accessible from both -dining-room and kitchen. As there is a bath-room and water-closet above, -there is no necessity for carrying slops downstairs and through the -kitchen. The kitchen has the usual fittings. The passage to the cellar -is under the front stairway. As will be remembered, there is a door -shutting this passage from the reception-hall. Upstairs there is a -closet in each room, two opening into the hall--one for bed linen, and -one for dust-pans, brushes, etc. There is also a closet in the -bath-room. The attic stairway is shown. An inspection of Plan No. 8 will -show how all of the requirements were met. - -Cost, as per schedule "B," $2,200. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - TWO GOOD ROOMS IN FRONT.--THE COMBINATION PANTRY.--TOO MUCH CELLAR - A BURDEN.--$2,500. - - -In Plan No. 9, the reception-room contains the front stairway. This -stairway lands near the front of the house on the second floor, for -which reason we are enabled to have in the front part of the house the -two rooms which are most used on each floor. We have the two chambers -above, and the reception-room and the sitting-room below. If we had a -long, narrow stair hall constructed in the usual way, we should have the -sitting-room towards the rear, and only a little alcove bedroom over the -hall in front. - -The dining-room, which is a large room, is connected with the front part -of the house by sliding-doors. It has a grate in one corner of it. On -general principles, a grate has no business in the dining-room. It is -nearly always at some one's back, and makes him uncomfortable at meal -time. Being in the corner of the room, it is farther from any one than -it would be if located on a side wall: hence it may be allowed. There is -a porch in the rear of the dining-room, and between the door leading to -it and the door to the china-closet there is a space for a side-board. -There are two windows at the end of this dining-room. The door which -passes into the pantry should be on double spring-hinges, so that it -will swing both ways. One can push against it and open from either side, -and when it is released it will take its natural position. - -[Illustration: Plan No 9.] - -The pantry is a large one. Pantries, in general, may be regarded as a -kitchen annex--a store-room and preparing-room. This pantry is on the -combination plan. It connects with the china-closet by means of a slide. -Aside from this china-closet, which projects into it, there is a -cupboard with double doors at one end, a flour-bin at the side, a pastry -table next to it, and a refrigerator by the window. One reason for -placing this refrigerator near the window is, that a flight of steps and -a platform might be arranged on the outside, so that the iceman could -put in the ice without going through the kitchen. We go down cellar from -this pantry. - -[Illustration: Fig. 13.] - -There is a cellar under about half of this house--the kitchen and the -dining-room. It should have a cemented floor, and numerous windows for -lighting it. The part under the kitchen could be used for a laundry, -that under the dining-room for coal storage and furnace. There could be -an excavation under a part of the sitting-room for vegetable storage. -"Why not put a cellar under the whole house? It would cost but little -more," has been asked many times. It is the little things, the smaller -economies, in a building of this kind which makes the difference between -an expensive house and a house of moderate cost. Every foot of cellar -space beyond what is needed for actual use is a burden to the -housekeeper. The arrangement has more to do with the number of -apartments than with the amount of space. We have a laundry-room, a -place for furnace and fuel, and a room for vegetables, which is about -all that can be used. From the cellar we can go up the stairway and -into the kitchen, from the kitchen to the second floor, and from the -second floor to the attic. - -It is a large attic, a place for large rooms if one should need them. -Under any circumstances this attic should be floored. There could be no -better place for general storage, and at times for drying clothes. - -It seldom happens that two houses from exactly the same plan are built. -While this plan has pleased many people, there are others who would not -be attracted by it; who would not care to build this house as their -home. The universal floor plan has never been made, and never will be. -There are general principles running through all plans which are -valuable, and if rightly understood will contribute to the improvement -of the homes of the people. - -Fig. 13 is an elevation. - -Cost, without appurtenances, $2,500, as per schedule "B." - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - SITTING-ROOM AND PARLOR IN FRONT.--A CONNECTING VESTIBULE.--A - CENTRAL COMBINATION STAIRWAY.--GOOD ROOMS IN THE ATTIC. - - -When we say that the sitting-room should be in the front part of the -house, it does not necessarily imply that the parlor should be -disturbed. As shown in Plan No. 10, they may both be in front. The -vestibule, which is large enough for a hat-rack, and for the occupants -of the house to stand while putting on their overshoes and wraps, is in -front of both parlor and reception-room, but yet in a way so as not to -disturb the view to the street from either of these rooms. We cannot -have all of the rooms in front. The kitchen we do not want there. The -dining-room is convenient if placed immediately in the rear of the -sitting-room. Thus we have two rooms in front and two in the rear. This -is practically a square house. The old habit has been to place the -stairway along one side of the parlor in the hall which served as a -passageway from the front to the rooms immediately in the rear. This -distribution of halls is what has thrown the sitting-room back of the -parlor. In the plan here given the change has been made so that the hall -has relatively the same position that did the sitting-room in the past, -though it is by no means as large. It is essentially a stair-hall, and -incidentally a passage. As placed, we may enter it from the parlor, -sitting-room, dining-room, or kitchen. Its position is central. There -are two doors between this stair-hall and the kitchen. The central -position of the stairway has other advantages than those just stated. -It makes long halls on the second floor entirely unnecessary. As will be -seen by looking at the floor plan, it gives two good bedrooms in front. - -[Illustration: Plan No 10.] - -The dining-room is immediately in the rear of the sitting-room. There -may be sliding doors connecting these two rooms. One door, three and a -half feet wide, usually makes a sufficiently large opening for the -dining-room connection. There are sliding doors between the parlor and -sitting-room, and dining-room and sitting-room, as shown. The kitchen -has the advantage of a certain amount of isolation from the rest of the -house, for the reason that there are two doors between it and any other -room. The pantries are arranged with reference to their most convenient -use. In the kitchen-pantry there are places for a refrigerator, -flour-bin, bread-board, and cupboard. The dining-room pantry is a -china-closet, with glass doors above and closed doors below. The doors -connecting the dining-room pantry or passage should be hung on -double-spring hinges. - -In the plan of this house it is shown how we may go from the kitchen to -the same landing that is used for the main stairway, and thus avoid the -necessity for a distinctively back hall and back stairway. However, if -it is so desired, it is easy to place a stairway in the rear, and thus -have them entirely independent. In that event a room may be placed over -the pantry, and be used by the servant. This part of the house could be -cut off from the front rooms and the bath-room on the second floor by a -door. But to take the house as it is, we have a combination stairway, -there being two doors separating the kitchen approach from the common -landing in the main stair-hall. - -On the second floor there is a hall about fourteen feet long from which -we pass to two bedrooms in front, two in the rear, the bath-room and the -store-closet. Each room is independent. They may be connected one with -the other as family necessities suggest. The store-closet is accessible -from the hall, as such a closet should be. This makes it available from -any of the rooms. The bath-room is directly over the kitchen. - -In each bedroom there is a place for a bed, a dressing-case, and a -wash-stand, which is not always the case in bedrooms. If there is a -place for these things, if the dressing-case bears its proper relation -to the sources of light, if it is so placed that the light from the -window or from the gas shines in the face of the user, if the wash-stand -is conveniently disposed, and there is room at the side of it for a -slop-jar, if there is a large closet, then the architect has done his -full duty in the arrangement of the bedroom. The room that is called -the family room should be especially well cared for in the matter of -closets. - -A hundred dollars would lath and plaster the entire attic of this house, -and provide a room in the front part which could be used by the boys or -the servant. There is no objection to this except in the necessity for -climbing an extra pair of stairs. The mere mention of a bedroom in the -attic is distasteful to many people. It arouses memories of hot, dusty, -and uncomfortable places in which they have passed the night. All this -depends on the attic. The roof in this house is pitched at an angle of -forty-five degrees. The house at the narrowest point is 29. feet wide. -This would make the attic at the highest point 14-1/2 feet. We can stud -down from this and have a nine-foot story and at the same time a large -room, one which would have none of the disadvantages of a half-story -room, and which would have all the advantages of a well-ventilated, -comfortable bedroom, for summer or winter. The plastering of the attic -suggests neatness. Having it well lighted by dormers exposes all -disorder. Cost, as per schedule "B," $2,600. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - - A COMPACT PLAN.--AN ISOLATED RECEPTION-ROOM.--COMBINATION - STAIRWAY.--DESCRIPTION OF THE FLOOR PLAN.--CELLAR - ARRANGEMENT.--DINING-ROOM AND CONSERVATORY.--ANOTHER PLAN. - - -The floor plans in No. 11 are of a house of small area, 30 x 34-1/2 -feet, for body of the structure. There is a porch in front, a circular -bay window at one side, and a pantry and china-closet projecting at the -rear. In the house there are eight available rooms besides the bath-room -and the attic. In the attic, rooms quite as liberal as any in the house -could be constructed at a small expense. - -On the first floor, as we enter, there is the reception or sitting hall, -which is so common in the more modern arrangements of dwellings. This -reception hall or room has a certain amount of isolation from the -passage which leads from the vestibule to the stairway and the rear -portion of the house. It may be separated therefrom by curtains or -portieres. It would be entirely possible to separate the two by means of -sliding doors, in which event the opening from the room into the passage -would have to be a little narrower than shown in the drawings. This room -could be used as the office of a physician, or of a gentleman who did -more or less business at home. By making the front vestibule about six -inches deeper, a separate entrance to this room could be provided. In -this event, a door from the room into the passage leading to the living -part of the house would be a necessity. The circular bay end of this -room would present an attractive feature. The windows in this part of -the room could be placed about four feet from the floor, in which event -book-shelves could be arranged below them. The window in front goes to -within seventeen inches of the floor. Under the stairway, and leading -from this room, may be placed a very liberal closet, in which there -should be a small window. - -Leading from the passage is the stairway, and two closets. The little -passage in which one closet is placed is separated from the hall by a -door. There is another door opening from this passage into the kitchen. -Thus there are two doors between the kitchen and the front part of the -house. This arrangement has in mind the isolation of the kitchen from -the other rooms in a way to prevent the passage of the usual kitchen -odors. - -[Illustration: Plan No 11.] - -The stairways in this house are of the class known as combination -stairways; while they are convenient and easy of construction, there is -a certain amount of complication in their arrangement which makes them -difficult of description so as to be understood by those not accustomed -to examining floor plans. There is the stairway from the front hall to -the floor above, and one from the kitchen to the landing of the front -stairway. The landing of the front stairway and that from the kitchen -stairway is in common; that is, it is the same. For the purpose of -making this understood, it may be well to say that one may go up the -stairway from the front hall to the landing, some eight steps, and from -thence down into the kitchen, or he can turn right face and go to the -landing on the second floor. This part of the stairs is used coming up -from the kitchen as well as from the front hall. However, the kitchen -stairway is separated from the landing by a door. There is another door -at the foot of this kitchen stairway. In coming downstairs, one may -turn to the right, open a door, and go down into the kitchen; or, he may -turn to the left, and go down the front stairway into the hall. Thus it -will be seen that the combination stairway is a front and rear stairway -together, with separate entrance from both parts of the house,--one from -the kitchen, and one from the front hall. It must be confessed that -there is a certain amount of compromise in an arrangement of this kind, -but it is a saving of both space and money, and is tolerable on this -account. By this plan everything is concentrated, and without the -serious drawback which extra cost, or a smaller number of rooms, would -imply to those who have only a little over two thousand dollars to spend -for a house, without appurtenances. The head room for the stairway, -coming up from the kitchen, is secured under the bath-tub in the -bath-room immediately above. - -The cellar stairway is clearly indicated as going down parallel to the -kitchen stairs and under the front stairs. The cellar in this house -should be under the kitchen, stairways, and the reception-hall; that is, -it would occupy all of one side of the house. In this cellar plan the -principles set forth in the previous chapter on cellars are carried out. - -[Illustration: Cellar Plan.] - -The parlor is thirteen and one-half by seventeen feet in size. It is -connected with a hall by wide sliding doors, so that about one-half of -this side of the room may be open. The grate opposite the sliding doors -in the parlor would present a very beautiful view from the hall and -stairway. The sliding doors between the parlor and dining-room are -placed there more in deference to custom than through any personal sense -of their fitness. Sliding doors do not have the quality of excluding -sound or odors that is desirable. The ordinary hinged door is better in -this respect. This room which would commonly be called a parlor would -really be used as a living-room, excepting by those who use the -dining-room or one of the second-floor chambers for that purpose. - -Our dining-room has an independent connection with the front hall, so -that we do not have to go through the parlor or the sitting-room to -reach it. A little extra money, say seventy dollars, would place a -conservatory at one side, at one corner, or at the end of this -dining-room. Fifty dollars would give a bay window. As it is, we have -two windows of the ordinary kind at one side of the room, and none at -the end. A very good arrangement, when bay or conservatory is not used, -would be to take one of these windows at the side and place it at the -rear end, though near the outside corner of the room. This would give -space between the windows and the china-closet door for a sideboard. The -window at the side of the dining-room, if the other were moved to the -end, should be in the middle of the wall space; that is, opposite the -centre of the flue. - -From the dining-room we go into the kitchen through the china-pantry, -which is marked "passage." This china-pantry has a little window at one -side, and at the end a separate apartment for chinaware, which is closed -from the passage by means of glass doors. The doors leading from the -passage into the dining-room and kitchen should be hung on -double-swinging hinges. - -There are those who would say that there should be no door from the -kitchen into the passage leading from the dining-room to the front hall. -It would probably be well to retain this door in this position, and have -a bolt on the side of the door toward the hall. Thus the mistress of the -house can close it, and keep it closed at will. Another thing that might -be done would be to place a strong spring on this door which would -always keep it closed. The windows in this kitchen should be placed -about three feet from the floor, so that tables may be placed under -them. There is a place for a gas-stove between the two windows, or even -under them if desirable. The porch at the rear of the kitchen may be -enclosed with lattice work, or, what is better, coarse louvered slats, -like those of a shutter. In either event, it could be covered with -screen wire, and made a part of the kitchen in summer. In the plan, -however, nothing of this kind is indicated. The door which leads from -the porch into the pantry is a small one, placed above the ice-chest, -and is for the use of the ice-man. - -[Illustration: Plan No 12.] - -The arrangement of rooms upstairs will be readily understood. Leading -out of the hall is a store closet for bedding, etc. It is located so as -to be accessible from all rooms. From the front end of the hall a door -leads into the stair passage to the attic. - -Plan No. 12 is the outgrowth of Plan No. 11. In it there is a lift -running from cellar to attic, as shown. The only important difference -between it and No. 11 is in the size of the library. Cost, as per -schedule "B," $2,600. Fig. 14 is an elevation: see page 147. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - WHAT CAN BE DONE FOR $1,600?--THE CLOSET IN THE HALL.--A SMALL - CONVENIENT KITCHEN.--CLOSETS IN THE BEDROOMS. - - -This house--Plan No. 13--was finished at a cost of less than $1,600. -This included, besides the house itself, a woodshed, well, and cistern. -There is a cellar under the hall and parlor. The building has a brick -foundation, and the wood-work begins two feet above the grade. The -stud-walls of the exterior are lined, first with dressed sheathing, then -with heavy building-paper, and finally covered with weather-boarding. -The first and second tiers of joists are two by ten inches; the -ceiling-joists of the second story are two by eight inches. All of the -studding is two by four inches. The windows have box frames with iron -weights and cotton cords. The first story is ten feet high, the second -eight and a half feet. These details of construction are mentioned so -that any one interested may know that it is a substantial, -well-constructed building. The interior finish is of pine, part of which -is varnished and the remainder stained and varnished. The front door and -stairway are of quartered oak. - -The front porch is 10-1/2 feet wide and 7-1/2 feet deep. It has a high -roof over it, as will be seen by the elevation. The entrance, being at -one side of the porch, gives more available space for uninterrupted use -during the warm weather. The hall is 10 feet wide and 10-1/2 feet long. -The stairway has first two steps to a broad landing, and then a -continuous movement to the second floor. If this landing were reduced -in size by making the approach more direct, say turning directly to the -left as one enters the door and going through a landing the width of the -stairway before making the general ascent, there would be more available -room in the hall. It is shown this way in the drawing, because it is the -way the house was built. There is a closet in this hall. There are many -houses built without a closet on the first floor, but it is certainly -better that one be provided. - -[Illustration: Plan No 13.] - -As will be seen, there are three rooms on the first floor, and four and -a bath on the second. It is an easy house to care for, because there is -no waste space, and all the rooms are readily accessible without extra -steps. Waste room means waste of energy and waste of money in more ways -than one--waste not only as to the unnecessary expenditure in the cost -of building, but in carpets, and in the labor of sweeping and caring for -them. - -[Illustration: Fig 14.] - -In the parlor at the right of the hall are two windows and a grate; one -window is in front and the other at the side. The dining-room is -similarly equipped. It has a large china-closet which connects with the -table in the kitchen by means of a slide. There is also a door between -the kitchen and dining-room. Eleven by twelve and a half feet is not -large for a kitchen. The availability of kitchen space is not entirely -dependent, however, on its dimensions, but rather upon the disposition -of the wall-space and the conveniences which have to do with a kitchen. -It will be seen that there is a space for the kitchen-range or stove -near the flue which does not conflict with the use of any other part of -the kitchen. Also there is a space between the door which leads into -the pantry and an outside wall which gives place for a kitchen-safe, -which may hold the kitchen utensils. It is out of the way and yet -convenient to the range. The safe might be placed opposite the tables at -the other end of the kitchen, if thought desirable. The kitchen window -is placed about three feet above the floor. This gives wall-space under -it. Where a safe is not used, a cabinet, to contain pots, kettles, etc., -can be placed there. - -[Illustration: Plan No 14.] - -The pantry is quite convenient to the kitchen. There is an enclosed -cupboard on one side which has doors and shelves above and below, and in -the recess next to the dining-room wall is a place for open shelves. -Near the pantry window is a dough-board and a place for flour. Here, -also, is the entrance to the cellar. It will be seen that there is a -door between the pantry and hall, which makes it possible to pass from -the kitchen to the stairway or from the kitchen to the front hall -without going through other rooms. The enclosed cupboard in the pantry -makes it possible to keep it always tidy. There is a glazed door in the -rear of the kitchen. - -[Illustration: Fig. 15.] - -It may be noticed that there is not a large hall to be carpeted or swept -on the second floor. This hall is well lighted by a window at the side. -From here one can go into any of the rooms on the second floor. As to -the bedrooms, there is a convenient place for bedroom furniture in all -of them. There is at least a choice of two places for each bed, a space -for a dressing-case where it will get the best light, and room for a -wash-stand. There is a closet in each bedroom, of ample capacity. - -The right-hand house in Fig. No. 10 shows the exterior of Plan No. 13. - -Plan No. 14 is another edition of Plan 15. The room lettered parlor is -properly a sitting-room. By dispensing with the grate in the -reception-hall this house could be built, as it was at one time, with a -stairway meeting the one coming up from the dining-room and passing from -thence to the second floor. The elevation of this house shows it with an -attic, though the plan does not contemplate this arrangement. Without -the attic and with a lower-pitched roof, this building, without -appurtenances, can be finished for $1,500. - -Fig. 15 is an elevation of Plans No. 14 and 15. - -[Illustration: Plan No 15] - -Plans No. 13 and 15 belong to the same class. No. 15 is more elaborate -in its details, and larger. From the sitting-room one passes to the -landing where it meets a stairway coming up from the kitchen. From -thence there is a common passage to the second floor. On this floor are -four bedrooms, a bath-room, and a liberal supply of closets. One of the -front chambers is supplied with two, and the hall with two. There is one -in the bath-room, and each of the other rooms. The cellar and attic of -this house are plastered. The building, without appurtenances, as per -schedule "B," cost $2,550. - -Fig. No. 16 is an elevation of Plan No. 15. - -[Illustration: Fig. 16] - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - OUTGROWTHS OF ONE IDEA.--EVERYTHING COUNTS AS A ROOM.--ONE - CHIMNEY.--CONVENIENCES OF A CONDENSED HOUSE.--COST FROM $1,600 TO - $2,800. - - -Plans Nos. 16, 17, and 18 are all outgrowths of the same idea. It is the -most economical general scheme for a house that is represented in this -collection. In No. 16 there is not more than forty-eight square feet of -hall space in the entire house. This is on the second floor. This plan -was devised under an extraordinary pressure for a roomy house for a -relatively small sum of money. Everything is made to count for a room. -Twelve sets of plans of this general kind were made for as many -different owners of houses during one season. This statement is made for -the purpose of indicating its popularity. We will look through No. 16 -with some respect to detail. - -It is a one-chimney plan. There are three grates with independent flues -in the three principal rooms on the first floor, and two grates with -their flues on the second floor. One among other points of economy is -the stairway arrangement. It is a combination, front, rear, and cellar -all in compact form. There are two doors between the kitchen and the -landing of the main stairway. In this respect it is like other -combination stairways which have been described. The front and rear -stairway come to the same landing, and from thence to the second floor. -The front stairway is provided with a railing, baluster, etc., and the -one from the kitchen is within an enclosure. There may be portieres -between the landing and the reception-hall. Thus one may pass from the -kitchen to the second floor without coming into view from this room. The -cellar stairway goes down under the main stairway. The combination idea -is carried out again in the pantry and china-closet. This pantry and its -arrangement in detail are fully described in Chapter VI., and -illustrated in Fig. 4. The vestibule next to the reception-hall is the -one referred to in Chapter V. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 16] - -On the second floor are four bedrooms and a bath-room, which is -immediately over the kitchen. There is a straight run of pipe in a pipe -duct on the inside wall. - -Fig. 17 is a photographic view of the exterior. It is an ultra shingle -design. - -[Illustration: Fig. 18.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 19.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 17.] - -[Illustration: FIGURE 17.] - -Fig. 18 is an elevation of Plan No. 17. Fig. 19 of Plan No. 18. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 18.] - -No. 17 is the house in which the general plan was first worked out, and, -in some respects, it shows that the idea was then in an experimental -stage. However, it indicates a house of moderate size on this plan, -whereas No. 16 is a large house. No. 18 is the small size of the same -plan. It has been built many times as a rental house. With the furnace -it is under lease, in one instance, for five hundred dollars a year. In -other cases, without a furnace but including plumbing with the use of -city water only, the rent is thirty-five dollars a month. Any of these -plans can be worked into a double house by putting the bathroom on the -outside, and adding to the amount of window space front and rear. The -following is a list of costs, without appurtenances, as per schedule -"B":-- - -No. 16, as a shingle house, $2,800; No. 17, $2,200; No. 18, $1,600. - -The latter figure includes soft-wood finish throughout. Other sizes of -this house have been built where the general construction aggregated -$2,400. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - ONE-STORY PLANS.--DESCRIPTION OF FLOOR PLANS.--BATH-ROOM NEXT TO - KITCHEN FLUE.--KITCHEN, PORCH, AND PANTRY.--THE - EXTERIOR.--ENLARGEMENTS ON THIS PLAN.--OTHER ONE-STORY HOUSES. - - -This house--Plan No. 19--has been built for $1,400. It is a one-story -cottage, containing five rooms, a bath-room, and a pantry. Such a house -is suited to young people of moderate means, or possibly to older ones, -where there are no children, or where the housekeeper does her own work. -It will be seen that it gives more of the conveniences of a larger house -than are usually found in a cottage of this size. - -From the porch we pass into a little vestibule, which might be made -larger by throwing into it the closet which opens from the sitting-room. -From the vestibule we go either into the parlor or the sitting-room. -This parlor could be used as the living-room of the house, and the -sitting-room as the dining-room, and still meet all the conditions of -good housekeeping. Off from the sitting-room is a projection, which -could be very comfortably arranged as a window-seat. It could be used as -such during warm weather, and as a place for plants in winter. In the -corner of this room is a closet, which may be connected with the kitchen -by a slide. There are sliding doors between the sitting-room and the -bedroom. In the front part of the bedroom is a large closet. It is -possible that many would prefer to have a window at this point, and have -a smaller closet elsewhere; say, in the corner next to the sliding-door -partition. The placing of a closet next to the rear wall would leave no -place for a bed as the rooms are now arranged. If the door from the -parlor to the bedroom were omitted the head of the bed might be placed -against the sliding-door partition, and the closet cut out from the rear -bedroom, with an opening leading into the front bedroom. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 19] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 20.] - -From the sitting-room, or from the front bedroom, we pass into a little -hall; and from the hall into the kitchen, the bathroom, or the rear -bedroom. Over each of the five doors leading into this hall there should -be a transom; thus it would be well lighted. The placing of the hall in -this way makes all of the rooms surrounding it independently accessible. -The rear bedroom has a place for a bed, a large closet, and a wall -space for necessary furniture. The availability of a bedroom is not -always dependent upon its size. A room may be large, and yet not contain -wall space for the furniture. A large bedroom may have a small closet. -This bedroom has a large one. - -The bath-room comes next to the kitchen flue. This is important when we -consider that the kitchen flue is frequently the last one in the house -to get cool. As here arranged, the pipe connections with the bath-tub -would all be short; they would all be near this flue, and on the inside -wall. Hence the conditions would be against freezing. There is a hollow -thimble in the pipe connections between the kitchen flue and the -bedroom. The bath-room might connect with the same flue or flue-stack. -Connecting with the bath-room there is a large linen-closet, which is -about the proper size and form for folded bed-clothes. It is near the -bath-room window, so that when the closet-door is open the contents will -be plainly in view. - -There is a large window in one side of the kitchen, which should be -placed three feet from the floor, so as to admit of a table being set -under it. If the kitchen stove were placed next the wall separating the -kitchen and sitting-room, it could be piped across to the kitchen flue, -and in that way leave the wall space adjacent to that flue and near the -bath-tub for the kitchen sink. This would bring all the plumbing work -together. At one side of this sink could be placed a well-pump, and a -cistern-pump at the other. - -In the rear of the kitchen are a porch and a pantry. We go down cellar -directly from the kitchen. Over the headway of the cellar stairs could -be placed a closet for various stores, such as canned fruit. This -closet, of course, would be connected with the pantry, as shown. The -necessity for head room in going into the cellar would make it -necessary to place the floor of this closet three or four feet above the -pantry floor. - -On the side of the pantry opposite this closet are two cup-boards, with -doors and shelves above and below. There is a place for a flour-bin or -flour-barrel under the dough-board, and space for an ice-box next to it. -This box should have a drain connecting with the outside. It is intended -to have the cellar under the kitchen and bath-room, though it might be -extended under the sitting-room also. This part of the cellar might be -used as a fuel-room, and thus dispense with wood and coal sheds. With -the fuel and water in the house, the housekeeper would be saved much -work. Where a kitchen sink is provided, it would be unnecessary even to -carry out the dish-water. - -[Illustration: Fig. 20. FRONT ELEVATION.] - -There are two flue-stacks in this building. A base-burner would warm the -sitting-room and bedroom and temper the air of the parlor. A grate fire -in the parlor would complete the work of heating that room. - -The cut of the exterior, Fig. 20, tells its own story. The porch has -turned columns, and a frieze decorated with scroll-work. The window seat -may have a window at each end, as shown in the floor-plan, or panels, as -indicated in the elevation. There is a gable at the side and over the -window seat, which extends the full width of the sitting-room. - -Plan No. 20 is a development of Plan No. 19. Without appurtenances it -cost $1,200. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 21] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 22] - -Plan No. 21 is an enlargement of No. 19. The pantry and china-room are -arranged differently. The doors leading into the china-room are glazed -in their upper panels with cathedral glass. This obscures the view, and -gives sufficient light. These doors were hung on double-spring hinges, -so frequently mentioned. Over the dining-room and chamber are two -finished bedrooms. They are arranged in the high part of the roof, and, -with dormers, would have only a small part of the upper corners clipped. -There are two grates more than shown in Plan No. 19. The stairway -arrangement may be reversed, so that one goes to the second floor from -the hall rather than from the kitchen. This house cost, with two -finished rooms on the second floor, without appurtenances, as per -schedule "B," $1,700. - -Plan No. 22 can be built and finished for $800. The gable arrangement -would be about the same as in Fig. No. 20. - -Plan No. 23 was built, including everything that went on to the lot, for -$1,600. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 23] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 24] - -Plan No. 24, as per schedule "B," cost $1,100. - -Plan No. 25, without appurtenances, cost $1,400. - -One-story houses cost more for the accommodations which they afford than -two-story buildings, for the reason that it takes the same foundation -and roof for a one-story house that it does for one of two stories of -the same area on the first floor. In fact, it usually takes more -foundation and roof for a one-story house than it does for a two-story, -for the reason that it covers more ground space than would be required -for the same or a larger number of rooms in the two floors. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 25.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 26.] - -No. 26. This is a peculiar type of a one-story house. There is a -servants room over the kitchen. It is a very comfortable arrangement. -The bath-room stands between the two bedrooms. There is a grate in each -of the rooms on the lower floor. The kitchen-sink arrangements are not -altogether satisfactory. It is a plan which will never be very popular. -It is designed to be finished with shingles for the outside wall. The -structure will cost about two thousand dollars, as per schedule "B." - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - SIDE-HALL PLANS.--PLANS WITH BEDROOM ON FIRST FLOOR. - - -Plan No. 27 is a side-hall plan with a bedroom on the first floor. The -parlor and sitting-room have views directly to the front. The -dining-room has a bay end, and a good china-passage to the kitchen. -There is a rear side-hall which is desired by a good many people in -building a large house. On the second floor are four principal chambers, -which are entirely cut off from the rear bedroom, by bolting a door into -the rear hall. The bath-room is measurably detached from the rest of the -house, which fact will have the quality of satisfying people who are -suspicious of all plumbing. This building, without appurtenances, -according to schedule "B," cost about three thousand dollars. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 27.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 28.] - -Plan No. 28 has over two hundred dollars' worth of porch attached to it. -It is a side-hall plan, with the entrance to the front. In it the -combination stair idea is carried out in a way previously mentioned, but -not before illustrated. The rear stairway is direct as to the servant's -room, and combined with the central stairway only for entrance to the -main part of the house on the second floor. The arrangement of rooms on -the first floor makes this plan suitable for use by people who entertain -in a small way. This is the plan to which reference is made in the -special kitchen article, excepting that there is a change in the -position of the cellar stairway. There are two closets and a wash-stand -in the hall which connects the kitchen and sitting-room. This -building, without appurtenances, as per schedule "B," cost between -$2,800 and $2,900. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 29.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 30] - -In Plan No. 29 the hall is in front, yet the entrance is at the side. -The stairway is at the rear end of the hall. A little door is shown at -the rear of the vestibule, leading under the stairway. The closet is not -very high, yet it is high enough to use as a place to store a baby -carriage or a small tricycle. The arrangement of the entrance and the -stairs admits of the use of the hall as a room. In the house as -constructed, there is a window seat in the octagon end. There is a -double railing coming down into the hall. A part of the stairway is open -on each side. Opposite is a grate. There are also grates in the parlor -and sitting-room. By a little change in the kitchen arrangement, a -bedroom could be placed back of the sitting room, and the rear and -cellar stairway would occupy measurably the same position as now. The -kitchen would have to be a little narrower, and, if desired, might be -longer. The pantry and kitchen could both be pushed a little to the left -of where they now stand. In this way space for a bedroom could be -provided back of the sitting-room, with possibly only a small projection -to the right. The rear vestibule could be cut out of the corner of the -bedroom. To prevent this from injuring the appearance of the room, a -corresponding space, to the left of this vestibule, could be arranged -into passage and closets for the bedroom and sitting-room. In this event -the rear bedroom wall would extend past the rear kitchen wall. Attention -is called to the size of the closets on the second floor. By a slightly -different arrangement of the bath-room an additional bedroom could be -provided. There is a large attic over the front part of this house. The -entire side walls are covered with shingles dipped in stain. There is a -mild form of octagon tower over the front chamber. The building, as here -planned, cost $2,600, without the appurtenances mentioned in schedule -"B." - -[Illustration: Fig. 21.] - -No. 30. Plans with bedrooms on the first floor are frequently wanted. -This requirement makes an ugly problem. It increases the number of rooms -on the first floor, and oftentimes leaves a less number to be provided -on the second story. In this plan, including the bath and -reception-hall, there are six rooms on the first floor and three on the -second, hence a good deal of waste. There is a sink in the rear hall, -second floor, with water supply over it, to obviate the necessity of -carrying slops down stairs. Cost of building in brick, $3,000. - -Fig. 21 is an elevation. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 31.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 22.] - -No. 31. This plan is of the same general character as No. 27, but is -somewhat contracted. There is a wash-stand in the little room on the -stair landing, a few steps above the reception-hall floor. This -building, without appurtenances, cost $2,400, as per schedule "B." - -Fig. 22 is an elevation of this plan. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTION.--SHORT DESCRIPTIONS OF ELEVEN HOUSE - PLANS.--VARYING COSTS.--SQUARE PLANS.--ONE-CHIMNEY PLANS.--REAR AND - SIDE HALL. - - -A great many people like a side-hall entrance, as well as one in front. -Plan No. 32 gives it. On the second floor there are a large number of -bedrooms. The rear stairway comes up in a manner to separate the -servant's room from the front part of the house. A double store-closet -is shown on the rear of the second floor. The front part of this closet -may be left unlocked and the other portion made secure. The bath-room in -the rear has direct connection with the water pipes as they come up from -the kitchen. All the bedrooms have the proper plan for furniture. This -house, without appurtenances, as per schedule "B," was built for about -$4,000. - -Plan No. 33 was used three times in one season, in slightly differing -forms, at a cost varying from $2,800 to $3,600, without appurtenances, -as per schedule "B." In the matter of floor space it is not an -economical house. It makes a very pretty arrangement of rooms on the -first floor. There are five good bedrooms and a bath-room on the second -floor. The rear part is measurably separated from the front by a door. A -projecting bay window from the family bedroom is shown. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 32.] - -Plan No. 34. This is another plan that was made to order. It is an -economical arrangement, and, in many respects, very convenient and -satisfactory. The single stairway, passing from the dining-room, will -be the least satisfactory feature about the whole house to the majority -of people. However, the idea in this connection is a good one. It is -economical in that it dispenses entirely with the hall. Furthermore, -this stairway starts from a room which will be used less than any on the -first floor. Few people will be inconvenienced by the use of the -dining-room as a hall. Part of this stairway goes into a hall leading to -the kitchen. The china-room and pantry arrangements in this house are -very satisfactory. On the second floor are five bedrooms and a -bath-room. The hall is lighted by a dormer over the stairway. This -building, without appurtenances, would cost about $2,500, as per -schedule "B." - -[Illustration: Plan No. 33.] - -Plan No. 35 is a house with a side entrance for small boys, which is -sometimes wanted. This plan meets such a requirement. In the rear hall a -coat closet is provided; also a rear stairway. The vestibule in front of -the reception-hall is sufficiently large to admit of the placing of hat -rack and other vestibule furniture. The stairway is a pretty feature, -though not satisfactory to all. There is a closet in connection with the -music-room. In actual construction one was provided from the kitchen. -The second floor is self-explanatory. It was built, as per schedule "B," -for $2,500. - -Plan No. 36. The requirements of the occupants of this building are -peculiar. A large number of bedrooms are required. Other than bath and -bedrooms, there are only the dining-room, parlor, and kitchen. There is -no cellar. There is a combination stairway. One run starts from the -front, and the other from the rear. The landing is in the centre on the -second floor. Cost of this building, $2,000, as per schedule "B." - -[Illustration: Plan No. 34.] - -In No. 37 the stairway is back of the reception-hall. It is -distinctively in the centre of the house, and is accessible from all -rooms. There is a passage through two doors from the kitchen to the -front part of the house. There is also the usual pantry passage. On -the second floor there are four good bedrooms, a linen closet, and a -bath-room. The cost of the building, without appurtenances, would be -about $2,100, as per schedule "B." - -[Illustration: Plan No. 35.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 36.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 37.] - -Plan No. 38 is another square, one-chimney plan. The house is broad -enough so that it gives a little better bath-room arrangement than is -shown in some of the narrower plans. The great drawback to this house is -that there is only one stairway, and that in front. If a cellar is -wanted, the stairway can go down under the main stairs. - -Plan No. 39. This plan has six bedrooms on the second floor. The hall on -the first floor has two closets in front. There is a projecting bay -window from the first landing of the front stairway. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 38.] - -This house was built for a minister. The library room is shown. -Projecting from it is a window-seat. On one side is a large fireplace. -The dining-room is separated from the front part of the house by a hall. -Both sitting-room and dining-room have bay ends of a form to give a view -to the street in front. The side-hall communicates with the kitchen as -well as the dining-room. In this hall is a closet, presumably for the -boys. There is a liberal supply of closets on the second floor. The -servant's room is cut off from the other part of the house. The attic is -plastered. This building, without appurtenances described in schedule -"B," cost $3,500. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 39.] - -Plan No. 40. The rear hall with the side entrance is the thing which -will commend this house, as far as its floor plan is concerned. It is an -old-style plan, and is wasteful of room. The building cost about $3,100, -as per schedule "B." - -Plan No. 41 is an eight-room house with a simple stairway. The outside -walls are of brick. It has a side entrance. The plan is a fairly good -one. There are two closets on the first floor, opening from the hall. -There is an abundant supply on the second floor. The building cost -$3,400, as per schedule "B." - -[Illustration: Plan No. 40.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 41.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 42.] - -Plan No. 42 belongs to the centre hall type, which is less common now -than in years past. The parlor, as here lettered, is in reality the -sitting-room. A bedroom is shown on the first floor. In each of the four -principal rooms a grate is indicated. A hall communicating with the -second floor from the cellar is shown in the rear. The kitchen, pantry, -and china-closet arrangements are such as have been fully described in -other chapters. The side-porch, next to the pantry, affords means of -putting ice into the refrigerator without coming into the room. The -reception-hall and dining-room are connected by sliding doors. Five -bedrooms and a bath-room and liberal closets are shown on the second -floor. The front stairway to this floor is broad and easy. The details -of the exterior of this structure were carefully rendered, and the -appearance altogether satisfactory. An outline drawing of the front is -shown. Small gables, similar in design to the one in front, show from -the sides. The building, according to schedule "B," cost $2,800, without -the appurtenances. - -[Illustration: Fig. 23.] - - - - -CHAPTER XXVI. - - EIGHT PLANS.--EACH SUITED TO FAMILY REQUIREMENTS.--DOUBLE - HOUSES.--AN ELABORATE FLOOR PLAN.--A SHINGLE HOUSE.--A BRICK HOUSE. - - -Plan No. 43, while not economical as to arrangement, is well suited to -the requirements of the people who own it. There are no children. The -lady does not employ a servant. The cost of the building would be about -$2,200. - -Plan No. 44. Double houses are not easy to plan where they are very -long. This house was built, one part to live in and the other to rent. -The living part has an entrance to the front; and the rental part one, -removed from it, at the side. The centre partition is lined on both -sides with sheathing lath; that is, sheathing with dovetails cut into -it, so that the plastering will stick to it, which makes it solid, and, -to a certain extent, deadens the sound. The lettering of the plan -clearly indicates its arrangement. The cost, without appurtenances, as -by schedule "B," is $5,000. - -Most of the plans given that are only two rooms deep may be made into -double houses by enlarging the amount of window space front and rear, -and placing the bath-room side of the house on the exposed side. This -gives direct light. - -[Illustration: FIGURE 24.] - -Plan No. 45. This house is built on a plat of ground having about -seventy feet frontage. The side-hall arrangements give two entirely -independent rooms in front. There is a good closet in the hall. From -here we pass to the dining-room, library, or parlor, and to the -second floor. Only one stairway is used. The pantry and china -arrangements are shown. We enter the cellar stairway from the pantry -passage. The kitchen is planned according to the general principles -previously set forth. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 43.] - -On the second floor are four bedrooms and a bath-room. Each room, -including the bath, is supplied with closets, and there is a linen -closet in the hall. A stairway leads to the attic, in which there is an -abundance of room for other chambers, should they be needed. The -building, without appurtenances, according to schedule "B," cost $2,100. -Fig. 24 is a photographic view of exterior. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 44.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 45.] - -Plan No. 46 is not greatly different in its general arrangement from -others that have been shown. The details, however, are more complete, -and it is generally more satisfactory than other houses of the same -type. The vestibule arrangement in the front hall is very satisfactory. -There is a window-seat under the stairs. The china-room arrangement is -convenient. It has an open stairway running out of it to the rear of the -second story. There is a laundry in the basement, and large closets on -the second floor. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 46.] - -Fig. 25 is an elevation. It is a very picturesque house. Cost, as by -schedule "B," $3,400. - -Plan 47. This house was designed for a west frontage. It has a porch in -front, a pagoda extension on the south side, and a carriage-porch on the -north side. There are a set of storm doors and double inside doors. The -reception-hall is thirteen by fifteen feet in the clear. At one side of -this hall is a grate. There is an archway over the front window. On -each side of the mantel are shown seats, which may be treated as a part -thereof. - -The stairway may be seen from this reception-hall. It is separated from -it merely by an open-work screen. The parlor connects with the -reception-hall by sliding doors. It has a large window in front, and two -smaller ones at the side. - -[Illustration: Fig. 25.] - -The parlor connects with the sitting-room by sliding doors, as shown. -There is a similar sliding door connecting the stair-hall and -sitting-room. Thus the reception-hall and stair-hall, sitting-room and -parlor, may be thrown together. - -There is a bay end at the south side of the sitting-room. Sliding doors -are not indicated between the dining-room and sitting-room, or between -the dining-room and hall. They could be so placed, if desired. - -There are two doors from the sitting-room to the dining-room, one on -each side of the fireplace. There is sufficient wall space in the -dining-room that these doors may be folded out of the way. The library -connects with the stair-hall and rear hall. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 47.] - -There is a large closet room under the stairway. In it is a small -closet, and places for a chest of drawers, and a wash-stand. This would -be particularly useful in case the library were to be used as a bedroom. - -There is a door separating the rear from the front hall. There are two -doors between the kitchen and the rear hall. The passageway between -these doors is lighted by a window. - -The sideboard in the dining-room is built into one end of this room. The -windows are placed about five feet above the floor, and would look well -of stained glass. - -The kitchen is sixteen by sixteen feet. On one side are a table, sink, -drain, and table, successively arranged as here named. In the -china-closet is an extension of the last-named table. There is a slide -which cuts off communication between the china-closet and the kitchen -when this table is not in use. In the china-closet are another sink, -table, etc., which could be used for washing and caring for the china, -glass, and silver that one does not care to take into the kitchen. - -There is good ventilation in the kitchen. Back of the range are shown -two flues. A dry-box is placed on a level with the top of the range, and -has openings in the bottom and into the flue. In this way, any articles -placed therein will be readily dried and ventilated. The warm air from -the range passes through the box and into the flue. - -In the pantry are a dough-board and flour-bins, a cupboard for stores, -and one for utensils. There is space for an ice-box or refrigerator next -to the rear porch. It has a drain connection with the outside. - -The landing of the front stairway is in the front of the building, as -shown. The rear stairway is separated by a door from the rear hall. In -the bedrooms, the beds, dressing-cases, and wash-stands are indicated on -the plan. The front chamber has a circular window in front. Each room -can be entered from the hall without going through any other room. There -is a grate in each chamber. The closets are all very large; in each of -the front rooms they are three and one-half by four and one-half feet. -In the south-side chambers one is three and one-half by four feet, and -the other is four by four feet. In the rear hall there is a large closet -which may be used for general purposes. In all closets on this floor -there is abundant room for drawers, hooks, shelves, etc. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 48.] - -The bath-room arrangement is somewhat different from that in general -use. It will be noticed that the water-closet is separated from the -bath-room proper, though connected with it by a door. One can enter -either the bath-room or this water-closet room from the rear hall. In -the bath-room is a large closet in which may be arranged a chest of -drawers, and, if desired, a ventilated receptacle for soiled linen. This -closet is lighted by a window. Cost, as by schedule "B," $10,000. - -Plan No. 48 is of a house well suited to the requirements of the people -who live in it. Fig. 26 is a view of the exterior. It is a shingle house -of a severe type. The side projection is a combination of brick and -stone. Cost, without appurtenances, $3,400. - -[Illustration: Plan No. 49.] - -Plan No. 49, without appurtenances, has been built for $3,400. It is -finished in both stories in hard wood, has a front and rear stairway, -and a side entrance. A central chimney contains four grates. The closet -arrangement is as good as in any plan in this collection. - -Figs. 27 and 28 are elevations. Fig. 28 shows how the conservatory at -the side is finished so as to appear with, and as a part of, the porch. - -[Illustration: FIGURE 26.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 27.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 28.] - -[Illustration: Plan No. 50.] - -Plan No. 50. This is a plan of a brick house, built, without -appurtenances, as per schedule "B," for $10,000. The external walls are -of selected dark cherry red brick, laid in red mortar. The stone work, -where exposed above grade, is of Ohio red sandstone, quarry face. There -is very little detail to the exterior. The general style of design is -quiet and unobtrusive. Red sandstone is selected to go with the -brick-work in order to present a solid mass of color, rather than a -variation between a light stone and brick work. The interior is complete -in all its details; the attic is finished as well as the parlor; all is -of quartered oak. Over the butler's pantry, in the rear of the hall, is -a balcony. Above this balcony is a large window, twelve feet wide and -ten feet high, divided with narrow mullions, and glazed with artistic -patterns of stained glass. At one side of the hall is a large fireplace, -with panelled wood-work above to ceiling. The sides of the hall are -wainscoted to the height of six feet with small panels. The ceiling is -of oak. The dining-room and library are finished the same as hall, with -oak ceiling omitted. Other details of the plan, in the light of what has -been said in previous chapters, are self-explanatory. All has been -planned according to the general principles set forth. The butler's -pantry is arranged so that all china and glassware are cared for in that -room rather than in the kitchen. Fig. 29 is an exterior view of this -plan. - -[Illustration: Fig. 29.] - - - - -PRACTICAL HOUSE-BUILDING. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVII. - - PRACTICAL POINTS.--WATER.--LOCATION OF HOUSE ON LOT.--DRAINING THE - CELLAR.--MASON - WORK.--FOUNDATIONS.--WALKS.--PIERS.--FLUES.--CISTERNS.--DAMP - COURSE. - - -In this section of the book it is proposed to consider, in as plain a -manner as possible, the construction of all the details of a house. - - -LOCATING THE HOUSE. - -First is the placing of the house on the lot. If it have an east or a -west front, it is common to set the north side of the house within a few -feet of the north line. On a small lot this gives more south and sun -exposure. The distance the house is set back from the front of the lot -depends largely upon what one's neighbors have done or may do. In the -case of a north or south frontage, the west side of the house is usually -placed to the west line. This brings the east side of the house in the -afternoon shade. Under any circumstances, there should never be less -than eighteen inches of space beyond the north or west wall. If the -projection of cornice is greater, there should be more than this. - - -WATER. - -The next thing to do when one begins to build, is to provide water for -the builder. This is from the city water service, if any; otherwise from -a well. If a driven well is used, it is best to locate it on the inside -of the house, near the kitchen sink, and allow the builder to provide a -common pump for use during building operations. The cistern and well -pumps should go into the plumber's contract. It is not necessary that -all the plumbing contract be let at the time the city water service is -supplied. The method of letting contracts is explained in another part -of the book. - - -EXCAVATING. - -In excavating for a house, the loam, or upper strata of earth, should be -separated from that which comes below. After the walls are placed, the -openings around the outside should not be filled at once; certainly not -until the wall is dry and the mortar set. After this, the grading and -filling should begin. The grade line of the house should be slightly -above that of the sidewalk, and there should be a general slope to it. -If there is an alley in the rear, the slope should be divided to reach -it, if possible. The drainage, excavating and filling connected with the -plumbing, gas supplies, etc., should be done early in the building -period. Thus the entire surface becomes compact and natural by the time -the building is finished. If it should become apparent that there will -be superfluous earth, it should be removed from the lot. - - -DRAINING. - -Where there is a clay soil, and in sections of the country where cellars -are inclined to be damp, they should be drained. This is done in various -ways; usually by running an open farm tile around and below the level of -the cellar wall, which should have connection preferably with a dry -well; but if nothing better presents itself, with the sewer drain, -although a connection of this kind is not safe. The air which will come -into this drain from the sewer will contaminate the soil, and in that -way affect the health of the occupants of the building. In some -instances a sewer connection from this drain is necessary, but only then -should it be used. - -Another method of draining a cellar is to excavate below the level of -lowest mason-work, and fill in a depth of about twelve inches with -broken stone, which is given a drain connection with proper outlet. The -space between stone particles acts as a drain. - - -MASON-WORK. - -[Illustration: Fig. 30] - -The mason-work should be of brick or stone. First, we will consider that -of brick, which is common to frame houses and is sometimes used for -brick buildings. The foundations, walks, piers, and flues should be of -hard burned brick. All should be laid wet, excepting in freezing -weather, with lime mortar. The outside exposed brick should be -preferably of a dark cherry-red color, laid in white or red mortar. The -latter is in most general use. The joints for exposed work should be in -form as indicated in Fig. 30; in mason's parlance, these are called -"rodded joints." The joint is first cut down from above, with trowel, -then the rod is placed along the upper edge of the joint, and the mortar -is cut away with a knife in the form indicated. Then the vertical joints -are trimmed in the same way; thus no mortar projects beyond the face of -the brick. This form of joint is desirable for all kinds of exposed -work, where one desires better work than is usual in foundations and -other exposed brick work. Brick work should have struck or common joints -in the cellar and outside exposed walls, only where small cost is of -great importance. Brick work should be left rough where it is desired to -plaster. Foundation walls and piers usually continue from sixteen to -thirty inches above grade; twenty or twenty-four inches is most common. -On this is placed a sill in most frame houses. Outside walls and piers -generally begin from eighteen to thirty inches below grade line, where -not influenced by the cellar. In an ordinarily cold climate the freezing -line is four or five feet. Eighteen inches or two feet is usual, -however, in the construction of frame buildings, and the results are not -unsatisfactory. A damp-course of slate or hard limestone is sometimes -placed just above the grade line, to prevent the passage of moisture -from the brick wall below to that above. These general statements as to -brick work apply alike to that used in brick and frame buildings, as do -also the statements as to interior walls, chimneys, etc., which follow. - -To prevent the passage of moisture through brick walls below grade from -the outside, a coating of Portland cement is sometimes used. Coal-tar is -also used, but is not as good as the cement. - - - - -CHAPTER XXVIII. - - BRICK FOUNDATIONS.--LAYING BRICK.--COLORED MORTARS.--COLORED - BRICKS.--BRICK VENEERING.--HOT-AIR FLUES.--DETAILS OF BRICK - CONSTRUCTION.--CHIMNEYS AND FLUES.--HOLLOW - WALLS.--CELLAR.--ASH-PITS.--GRATES. - - -A brick wall under a frame house is ordinarily nine inches thick; that -is, it is called a nine-inch wall. In reality, it is the thickness of -the length of a brick. Under these walls are placed footings. For a -two-story frame house there are usually two footings of two courses each -projecting two inches. Thus a nine-inch wall would have the bottom -footing seventeen inches wide. In ordinary American brick work there is -what is called a bond to each seventh course. The bond is made by laying -the brick crosswise the wall rather than lengthwise. In that way it ties -or bonds the wall together in the direction of its length. Below grade, -where the brick work is not exposed, the bond is made by laying a -continuous course of brick in this way. Above the grade, the bond is -made by laying each alternate brick across the wall. This is called a -header and stretcher bond. The stretcher is the brick which lies -lengthwise the wall in the common way, and the header is the one which -shows its head and runs crosswise the wall to form the bond. Thus there -is a continuous row of alternating headers and stretchers in the bond -course, which occurs, as said before, each seventh course. Another bond, -by some brick-layers called the American bond, does not show on the -outside. The corners of the inside of the outer row of bricks are -clipped, so that the bond brick runs part way into the outside course, -and thus is out of sight. It is an artificial arrangement and not -satisfactory; it is not good construction. The header and stretcher bond -is the best for exposed work, where both appearance and solidity are to -be considered. There are other forms of bond,--the old English and the -Flemish,--but they need not be considered here. - -All brick should be thoroughly "slushed" with mortar; that is, all -spaces between brick should be thoroughly filled. The ideal condition -would be to have all brick excepting the exposed faces entirely -surrounded by mortar. - -The selection of the brick for the exposed fronts in a frame as well as -a brick house should be made before the brick work is begun; at least a -large supply should be selected and piled up. While the brick cannot all -be of the same shade, different shades can be selected for different -walls--a lighter shade for a north wall, and a darker for a south wall, -a different shade for an east and a west wall. Very slight variations -can be made in the ells and projections. This would apply to pressed, -stock, or common brick, though pressed brick is usually selected before -delivery. - -The best color for exposed work is a dark cherry red. The best-appearing -work with indifferent brick can be made with the use of a reddish brown -mortar. The use of this kind of mortar is increasing. White putty mortar -is made in the ordinary way, excepting that white sand, similar to that -from Lake Pontchartrain, rather than gray sand, is used. It contains -more lime than ordinary mortar. The mortar is said to be richer. - -Black brick are made by heating and then dipping in coal-tar. Enamelled, -glazed, and colored brick can be purchased in the larger markets as -desired. Various forms of ornamental brick work are possible even where -only the common brick are used. Moulded pressed brick are quite common, -and the results of their use very satisfactory. - -Brick veneering is not unusual in sections of the country where brick is -very expensive and the effect of a brick house desired. It is a -four-inch brick wall anchored to a frame structure. The anchoring is -sometimes accomplished by driving twenty-penny nails into wood-work in a -way to project into joints. - -Hot-air flues in brick walls are sometimes tin-lined, though this is not -necessary when they are smoothly plastered, providing it is possible to -make them eight inches square. If they cannot be made deeper than the -width of a brick, four inches, they should be tin-lined. A four-inch -hot-air flue can be placed in a nine-inch wall by setting the two -outside rows of brick on edge. - -Hollow walls have not been regarded with great favor during recent -years, for the reason that it is difficult to secure their proper -construction. A hollow wall is usually twelve inches in thickness, with -the middle course of brick omitted excepting at the corners and adjacent -to openings. Suitable ties are placed across the open space. - - -CELLAR. - -It now is in order to consider various features of interior brick work -and details which come in connection therewith. Cellars are usually from -seven to eight feet deep. As this does not give all the height necessary -for furnace or other heating apparatus, it is usually pitted; that is, -it is let down into the cellar floor, and a brick area built around the -opening to the furnace-door. Because of the necessity for pitting the -furnace, the walls of the house adjacent thereto should continue -eighteen inches below the level of other walls. - -Walls inside of cellar should continue to the top of joist. This -completely separates the different compartments of the cellar, or from -that part of the house where there is no cellar. - -There should be a man-hole opening to the parts under the house where -there is no cellar. - -Lintels or wooden supports should be provided over all openings in -cellar, and over all openings in inside brick walls. - -Wooden brick should be provided and built in where it is necessary to -attach wood work to brick work. Usually this is about two feet six -inches apart in a vertical or horizontal direction. The wooden brick -should be the thickness of the brick itself and the mortar joints; that -is, there should be no mortar above or below a wooden brick. Iron -ventilators should be provided; one in each outside wall under each room -where cellar windows are not provided. Windows are not usually provided -where there is no cellar. - - -CHIMNEYS. - -It is known that wood-work should not come directly in contact with -chimneys. The framework should never rest on a chimney. There are -reasons for this other than those which have a regard for safety from -fire, one of which is that the chimney is not liable to settle. If it -does not, the shrinkage of the wood-work, which in a two-story frame -house will sometimes amount to two inches in the height of the building, -makes a high place around the flues, where the frame comes in contact -with or rests on the chimney. All chimney-stacks should extend above -highest point of ridge of roof, and the extreme tops should be laid in -Portland cement. All the exposed brick of the chimney should be -hard-burned. If due regard were paid to these points, there would be no -rickety chimney-tops. All flues should be thoroughly plastered on the -inside. If chimneys were plastered on the outside, wherever they come in -contact with the wood-work, the complaint of fires from defective flues -would be hushed. - -Fig. 31 illustrates the common form of constructing a chimney breast -where a grate is to be used. The flues are eight and one-half inches -square. A passage to the ash-pit is shown. The grate opening is two feet -wide; the jambs on each side are one foot six inches wide; thus the -entire width of the breast is five feet. Other dimensions as indicated. -Where there are grates on two floors of the house, one above the other, -or where it is desirable for any reason to have a flue pass around a -grate, it is necessary that the breast should be five feet wide. It is -clear that the grate from below must have its own flue out to the top of -the chimney. Thus the grate flue from the first story must pass around -the grate of the second story, if there be one. If there is no grate -above, or if it is not desired to pass a flue around the first-story -grate, the chimney breast need be only four feet wide; that is, it would -have the usual two-feet opening to the grate, and twelve rather than -eighteen inch jambs on each side. On one side of the dotted line is -indicated flue construction for a brick wall, and on the other for a -wood wall. - -[Illustration: Fig 31] - -The hearth should rest on what is called a trimmer arch, which is made -of brick. It springs from the chimney breast to the header of wood in -front. It is four inches in thickness. It is laid in the ordinary way, -and at the proper time is filled on the top with concrete by the -mantel-setter. In case a grate on the second floor connects with the -ash-pit, one of the flues at the side is used for this purpose. - -Fig. 32 indicates a common form of corner grate. The flues in this as -well as Fig. 31 are drawn close together and come out through the attic -and roof in a smaller stem. There should be distinct separation of -flues. - -[Illustration: Fig 32] - -Ash-pits are frequently made of four-inch brick walls strengthened by -brick pilasters. These pits are usually from three to four feet in depth -and the width of the chimney breast, and nearly as high as the depth of -the cellar. Where more than one grate empties into an ash-pit, it is -common to divide it into compartments, one for each fire. The top of the -pit is crowned with a brick arch. Ash-dumps are sometimes provided for -the grate, depending, of course, upon the kind of grate used, and -ash-pit doors of iron for the pits themselves. - - -OUTSIDE CELLAR-WAY. - -The side walls of an outside cellar-way should continue to the bottom of -cellar. It should be floored the same as the cellar itself. - - -AREAS. - -Areas of brick should be provided around all cellar openings that -continue below grade. The bottoms of these areas should be floored with -paving-brick. This is better than cement, as it admits of natural -drainage. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIX. - - STONE MASONRY.--CUT STONE.--TERRA COTTA.--PRIVY - VAULTS.--CISTERNS.--FILTERS FOR CISTERNS.--BRICK PAVEMENTS.--CEMENT - PAVEMENTS. - - -Stone foundations for dwelling-houses are usually made of native stone, -and anything that may be said here must necessarily conform to general -rather than special conditions. The best stone that can be used for this -purpose is hard, non-absorbent limestone. There are many varieties of -stone conglomerates throughout the country which are valuable for -foundation uses. Stone should be laid up in lime mortar in the direction -of its natural bed in the quarry, with a sufficiency of bond stone. For -ordinary dwelling-house work there should be at least one footing eight -inches in depth, and six inches projection on each side of the wall. -Stone walls for foundations are usually made not less than eighteen -inches in thickness. It is not easy to lay a good stone wall less than -eighteen inches in thickness. While the same number of cubic feet of -stone work may cost less than brick work, a stone foundation ordinarily -would cost more than one of brick for the reason that a brick wall does -not have to be so thick. It usually takes about half the number of cubic -feet of brick work that it does of stone work to answer the same -purpose. Where stone is available at low cost it is best to use it. -Interior brick walls may rest on stone footings. The inside of stone -walls should be neatly pointed after other work has been finished. Stone -work above grade may be finished in many ways--random range work, -rubble work, regular course range work, etc. After the other work has -been finished, the mortar should be raked out a short distance and a -finish joint added. - - -CUT STONE. - -Cut-stone work is too large a subject to consider in detail. There are -several points which cannot be overlooked. There should be drips cut -under all projections, so that the water will not run down the other -stone or brick work and stain it. A drip is merely a little V-shaped -channel cut on the under side of the stone work. They are found on the -under side of most window-sills. In door, window, or other openings, the -stone work should underlie or overlie all wood work at least two inches. -This may be explained by stating that the stone window-sill should -underlie the wood sill two inches, and the window cap should overlie the -wood cap at least two inches. Generally speaking, coping should project -on each side of the wall about two inches. Sills should extend at least -one inch beyond the face of the wall. Window-sills should be no less -than five inches in thickness. Door-sills should generally be about -seven or eight inches, and extend at least one inch beyond the face of -the wall, and through its full thickness. The water table of the stone -foundation usually forms the window cap of the cellar windows, and the -cap course, which comes at the grade line, the cellar window-sills. In -this case it is necessary that the stone should run farther into the -wall where the openings occur. - -Stone steps are not over six and one-half to seven and one-half inches -in thickness, with from nine to twelve inch treads. They underlie and -lap about one inch, and have walls, the same material as the -foundation, for lower supports. These walls should go to the full depth -of the house walls with which they come in contact. Thus there is no -danger of settling. Stone steps are frequently used in the front of the -yard from the side-walk to the grade level where there is considerable -elevation. In such cases it is necessary to use stone side pieces for -the steps, to prevent caving and to make a neat finish. Where flagging -is cheap, it is well to use it for walks and porch floors. - - -TERRA-COTTA WORK. - -Terra cotta is the perfection of brick-making. It is the only building -material which is not affected by changes of temperature, or other -natural or artificial conditions to which the building may be subject. -It may be described as being a very plastic material; that is, anything -can be done with it. It can be worked into any form that is desired, -excepting long lintels, and even in that case there are means of -arriving at the desired result and giving a lintel form in a very proper -manner. Ornamental terra cotta is modelled by artists before being -burned, and the best results may naturally be expected. - - -PRIVY VAULT. - -The size of the privy vault is usually three and one-half by four and -one-half feet, elliptical, and from ten to twenty feet deep, according -to the character of the soil. Usually it is walled up with four-inch dry -brick wall. Piers should be provided at corners for privy building. In -some instances it is required that the privy vault should be made -water-tight. In that case it should be built the same as a cistern, with -round bottom and cemented interior surface. When it is desired to -connect the privy vault with the sewer, it should be cemented in the -manner just described, with a siphon vitrified pipe connection with the -drain to the sewer. The siphon prevents solid rubbish, which may be -thrown into the vault, from getting into the drain and clogging it. - - -CISTERN. - -The cistern is generally located near the rear kitchen wall, say ten or -twelve feet therefrom. The walls, arch, and neck are usually four inches -in thickness when capacity of cistern does not exceed one hundred and -twenty-five barrels. Otherwise the brick work mentioned should be eight -inches in thickness. The brick should be laid in domestic cement, and -smoothly coated with Portland cement. It should be connected with the -down spouts of the house by means of vitrified drain-pipe, the same as -described in connection with plumbing work, though it has no connection -therewith. - -The following table gives capacity of cisterns of various sizes. - -CAPACITY OF CISTERN IN GALLONS FOR EACH TEN INCHES IN DEPTH. - - +-------+----------++--------+----------++--------+----------+ - | DIAM. | || DIAM. | || DIAM. | | - | IN | GALLONS. || IN | GALLONS. || IN | GALLONS. | - | FEET | || FEET. | || FEET. | | - +-------+----------++--------+----------++--------+----------+ - | 2 | 19.50 || 6-1/2 | 206.85 || 12 | 705.0 | - | 2-1/2 | 30.50 || 7 | 239.88 || 13 | 827.4 | - | 3 | 44.60 || 7-1/2 | 275.40 || 14 | 959.6 | - | 3-1/2 | 59.97 || 8 | 313.33 || 15 | 1,101.6 | - | 4 | 78.33 || 8-1/2 | 353.72 || 20 | 1,958.4 | - | 4-1/2 | 99.14 || 9 | 396.56 || 25 | 3,059.9 | - | 5 | 122.40 || 9-1/2 | 461.40 || 30 | 4,406.4 | - | 5-1/2 | 148.10 || 10 | 489.60 || 35 | 5,990.0 | - | 6 | 176.25 || 11 | 592.40 || 40 | 7,831.0 | - +-------+----------++--------+----------++--------+----------+ - - -FILTERS. - -There are various ways of forming a filter. One is to have a small -cistern of eight or ten barrel capacity, located between the main -cistern and house. It should be divided by a brick wall laid in mortar, -but not cemented on either side. The water enters on one side, passes -through the brick wall in the middle, and from thence to the cistern -beyond. Another plan is to cement the wall, leave an opening at the -bottom, and pack the side on which the water enters with charcoal, sand, -and gravel. The water passes through this packing and the opening below -to the other side of the filter, and then to the cistern. Still another -plan is to build the partition as first described on the inside of the -cistern proper. All of the water passes to one side of the divided -cistern, and through the partition before being drawn out. Thus it has -to pass through the brick before it is to be drawn out. Still another -filter is made by building what is called a beehive in the bottom of the -cistern. It is a beehive form of brick work, with the pump pipe leading -to the inside, so that all water has to be drawn through the brick -beehive before it is pumped out. According to this plan, as well as the -others mentioned, the water is strained through the brick. - -It is best that the cistern and independent filter, when used, should be -provided with iron rims and cast-iron covers. It is good practice to -connect the cistern with a dry well, which is constructed the same as an -open vault excepting that the top is arched. This dry-well connection is -by means of five-inch vitrified pipe laid in the same manner as sewer -pipe. - -There is a practice, altogether too common among builders, of connecting -the cistern overflow with the vault or sewer. Nothing could be worse -than this. The water is certain to be polluted. - - -BRICK PAVEMENT. - -Brick pavements are used for walks around the house, and sometimes for -cellar floors. Cement floors, however, are better for cellars. Brick -pavement of all kinds should be made of hard-burned bricks, laid on a -six or eight inch bed of sand. The brick walk should not be laid until -after all the grading and filling of the lot has been done. It is best -to leave the brick walks out of the general contract, so that this work -can be delayed until after the house is finished. It is a good thing to -have the sodding and the paving in the same contract. The contractor who -attends to the sodding can work the two together to a better advantage -than if the walks were placed and the sodding done afterwards. - - -CEMENT PAVEMENT. - -Cement pavements are used for walks around the house, and for cellar -floors. Cement is more expensive than brick. The surface to be covered -should, first, be levelled, then saturated with water; after which is -laid a three-inch bed of cement concrete, made of gravel, sand, and -cement in proper proportions. Upon this is placed a three-fourth-inch -layer of cement mortar. Ordinary American, hydraulic cement may be used -for concrete, but for the three-fourth-inch layer nothing but best -Portland cement should be considered. Sometimes the cement work in the -cellar is done by the plasterer. Outside cement work for walks requires -special skill. In most large cities there are those who make a business -of doing this work. They have different formulas and methods of reaching -the proper results. - - - - -CHAPTER XXX. - - CARPENTER WORK.--FRAMING.--SIZE OF TIMBERS.--HEIGHT OF - STORIES.--JOIST.--STUD WALLS.--OUTSIDE - SHEATHING.--BUILDING-PAPER.--ROOFS.--OUTSIDE FINISH.--OUTSIDE - SHINGLE WALLS.--OUTSIDE CASINGS.--WINDOWS WITH BOX FRAMES.--HINGED - OR PIVOTED WINDOWS.--OUTSIDE SHUTTERS.--PORCHES.--LATTICE PORCHES. - - -CARPENTER WORK. - -In considering carpenter work, we will first take up framing, and -everything which pertains to the outside of the house. All material used -for framing should be sound, square-edged material, free from -imperfections tending to impair its use, durability, or strength. In -different parts of the country, different kinds of lumber are standard -for framing purposes. In the South and sections contiguous to it, yellow -pine is used; in the North, white pine, hemlock, Norway spruce, poplar, -and even hard wood. It is neither profitable nor desirable in this -connection to indicate any particular material; it is natural to use the -cheapest that is sufficiently strong for framing. The following table -indicates the sizes of timber in common use in framing an ordinary -dwelling. - - Sills, outside walls 6' x 8" - Sills, inside walls 6 x 8 - Lintels, over openings 6 x 10 - Girders, over piers 6 x 10 - Plates 4 thick - Rafters, 20 on centres 2 x 6 - Horizontal purlins, or roof supports 4 x 6 - Roof posts 4" x 4" - Bridging 2 x 4 - Joists, 1st tier 2" x 10" x 16" on centres - " 2d tier 2 x 10 x 16 " " - " 3d tier 2 x 8 x 16 " " - " deck 2 x 6 x 20 " " - Studs 2 x 4 x 16 " " - Rafters, or deck joist, 16" on centres, when to be plastered. - -Sizes here given may not be adapted to all sections. There is no -occasion for being arbitrary. The sizes may be conformed to the material -which is ordinarily used. - -Stories ten and a half feet high are generally considered the limit in -an ordinary frame house at this time. Nine and a half and ten are more -common. This is quite different from the general tendency to high -stories a few years ago. Certainly, it is more rational. - - -JOISTS. - -Joists are usually dressed, so that they have about one-half-inch crown -or curve on their upper surface, which would make the centre of the room -about one-half inch higher than the sides. They should be trimmed so -that all are of the same width and form. Double trimmers and -headers--that is, double joist--should be framed around all -chimney-breasts, well-holes, scuttles, and openings in the wall. In -dwelling-house work they should be mortised and tenoned together, as -should be the pieces connecting therewith. In very cheap work headers -and trimmers are sometimes spiked together. This is not good practice. -For very good work, where heavy weights are to be carried, trimmers and -headers should be supported on wrought-iron strips. This, however, is -not necessary in ordinary dwelling-house work. - -Joists longer than eighteen feet should be twelve inches in width. -Those running adjacent or parallel to partition or other walls should be -firmly spiked thereto. Double joists should be placed under all -partitions and supports having no support from below. Where the weight -is extra heavy, the double joists should be trussed by a -two-by-four-inch stud, spiked in truss form, between them. There should -be one row of truss bridging to each span or tier, size as indicated. -Header should be framed across pipe duct, about eighteen inches -therefrom. - - -STUD WALLS. - -See Fig. 33. Walls and partitions are usually of two-by-four-inch -studding. In large houses it is best that the studding be two by six -inches, and plates four inches in thickness and the width of the -studding are commonly placed at the bottom and top of the walls of each -story. Sometimes, however, the studding continues to the height of two -stories, and the joists are supported on a one-by-six-inch "ribbon" -piece let into the studding. - -[Illustration: Fig 33] - -Trusses or supports should be framed over all openings. Sliding-door -pockets or runways should be lined with flooring. All corners and angles -should be framed solid and have two-inch projections for lathing. -Studding four by four inches thick should be framed around all window -openings and on three sides of the door openings; bridging, two by two -inches, one row for each story. Grounds should be placed on the inside -openings, and elsewhere for plastering. The pipe duct, fourteen inches -wide, should be placed between studding from kitchen to attic floor. All -outside walls of frame houses should be diagonally sheathed with -seven-eighths-by-six-inch dressed sheathing. Tongued and grooved -material is best for this purpose, although it is not in common use. All -sheathing should be covered with six-pound sized building-paper. - -Sometimes the insides of brick walls are furred. This means that they -are lined on the inside with wood strips two inches in thickness, -sixteen inches on centres, and then lathed and plastered. This prevents -the passage of the moisture through the brick into the inside of the -room. - -Various forms of sheathing lath for inside sheathing of a frame house -are now in use. This form of lath contemplates a seven-eighth-inch -tongued and grooved sheathing on the inside with dove-tailed channels -cut into its surface, which form key-room for the plastering. - - -ROOF. - -Most roofs can be formed with out-posts and purlins. All can be formed -in this way where cost is not considered. An ordinary dwelling-house of -the size given in these plans does not require separate posts and -purlins. There should be double rafters around all chimneys and openings -in the roof. - -The roof should be sheathed with seven-eighths by four-inch material; -where exposed to view, with five-and-one-half-inch beaded flooring. -Where deck framing is required, posts and purlins are necessary, size -according to weight to be carried. - -Where shingles are used for roofing, they should be laid four and -one-half inches to the weather for sixteen-inch shingles, with two nails -to each. It is best that shingles should be dipped in stain, oil, or -paint before they are put on the roof. The durability of shingles is not -increased by being painted after they have been laid. The ridge finish -of the shingle or slate roof should be of galvanized iron, with about -four-inch lap on each side. It may be made as ornamental as desired. -Wood should never be used for this purpose. Hips and ridges of slate or -shingle roofs may be finished with tin or galvanized iron, lapped on -each side about three and one-half inches. Gutters of galvanized iron -set up on the first course of shingles or slate, with metallic support -from above or below, are better than gutters of wood tin-lined. - -Where slate covering is used, any size slate desired may be employed, -bearing in mind that the bond should not be less than three and one-half -or four inches. There should be two nails to each slate. - - -OUTSIDE FINISH. - -All lumber used for outside finish should be thoroughly seasoned, clear, -smoothly dressed, and free from imperfections tending to impair its use, -durability, strength, or appearance. Poplar is the ideal building -material for outside finish. It takes paint better than other woods used -for this purpose. However, pine is generally used, for the reason that -it is cheaper. Weather-boarding is usually laid with an inch lap four -and one-half inches to the weather; three and one-half inches is better. - -[Illustration: Fig 34] - -Drop siding, or German siding as it is sometimes called, makes a warmer -and better wall than weather-boarding. It is usually six or eight inches -wide, and in form and construction as indicated by Fig. 34. - -Outside shingle walls are now quite common. Shingles are used for -ornamental purposes in a large proportion of the houses that are built; -in some instances they are used exclusively for outside covering. In -such cases they are undressed, and are stained commonly with one of the -proprietary stains now on the market. Before being placed they are -dipped into the stain for about eight inches from their buts, and are -laid in piles to dry. Any desired color may be secured, and there are -instances where stained shingled walls have gone without any attention -or expense for eight or ten years. - -Dressed shingles are commonly painted. Their form may be as ornamental -as desired. Outside shingles are sometimes laid five and one-half inches -to the weather, but four and one-half is better. It is not uncommon at -this time to leave all shingles unpainted and unstained. The effect is -very agreeable when they become weather-stained. - - -OUTSIDE CASINGS. - -All horizontal trimmings and casings should be bevelled on the top to -shed the water. They should run back under the shingled weather-boarding -or other outside covering. There should be tin covering for all -projections in excess of one and three-eighths inch. Ordinary window or -door casings outside are usually three-eighths inch thick. - - -WINDOWS. - -All windows in the part of the house regularly occupied should have box -frames. Pulley styles should be of hard wood, and the inside bead should -be secured with round-headed screws. Sash for plate glass should be one -and three-fourths inch thick; side rail, two and one-half inches in -rabbet; bottom rail, three and one-eighth inches; and meeting rail, one -and one-fourth inch in the rabbet. Sash for common glass may be one and -three-eighths inch thick. Other sizes, as given. Sash, for rooms -finished in hard wood is better when of the wood in which the room is -finished. However, where there is great variation this is not necessary. -Quartered oak is the material commonly used for hard-wood sash. Almost -any hard wood is more liable to warp than pine. All box frames should be -provided with turned axle pulleys. Nothing but the best plaited cotton -sash-cord should be used. Necessary weights should be provided. - -In some of the plans where wide front windows are indicated, the design -is called pocket head. There is a pocket above the head of the frame so -that a high sash may be run into it. The sash may be pushed up into the -pocket; that is, it runs into the wall above the head of the frame. -Where the pocket-head window is used, it is necessary that there be a -clear space above the frame for the sash to be run up equal to the -height of the sash itself. - -Hinged or pivoted windows have rabbeted frames which are usually one and -three-eighths inch thick. They are used for the most part in unfinished -cellars, attics, and unoccupied parts of the house, and preferably for -pantry, store-room, and, occasionally, bath-room windows. They may be -hung on hinges or pivots. Hinges are better, for the reason that fly -screens cannot be used where the sash is pivoted. Sills should slant -twenty degrees, with drip piece secured to outside. This prevents the -storm from blowing water to the inside. - - -OUTSIDE SHUTTERS. - -Outside shutters are usually one and three-eighths inch thick, with -movable slats; if more than six and one-half feet high, they should be -made in three panels each. Arrangements are provided by various -manufacturers of hardware for opening outside shutters from the inside -of the room. They may be swung either from the sides or top at will. -When they are suspended from above they act as an awning; they admit the -air but not the rays of the sun. - -Sometimes shutters are cut at the meeting rail, so that the upper or -lower section may be opened as desired. - - -PORCHES. - -At this time it is not usual to provide special ceiling for porches. The -rafters and all exposed material are dressed so that they may be painted -or stained. Floor joists are not usually more than two by eight inches; -sills, about six by eight. The floor should be inclined about one-eighth -of an inch to the foot, and made of hard wood, tongued and grooved, not -over two and three-fourths inches in width. Edges should be finished -with nosings, which are rounded edges. The roof of the porch is usually -the same as that of the body of the house. Gutters are similar to those -on other roofs. - -Railing and turned balusters are usual, excepting where an opening for -passage is desired. - - -LATTICE PORCH. - -Framework of lattice porch is generally the same form as other porches. -The covering is usually made with one-and-three-eighths-inch material, -laid diagonal; openings, one and three-eighths inch. Door and hardware, -same as used for other parts of the house, are generally provided. - - -OUTSIDE STEPS. - -Outside steps of wood usually have hard-wood treads made of -seven-eighths-by-two-and-one-half-inch pieces, with three- eighths-inch -space between; carriages should be two by ten inches, about sixteen on -centres. Railing and posts for steps should be provided if necessary. -Lattice should be placed under porches and outside steps, and between -all outside piers. Outside lattice-work in yard may be of the same -general design as mentioned for lattice-work porches. - -General statements as to outside wood-work apply alike to brick or frame -houses, with certain omissions that should be obvious to an intelligent -reader. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXI. - - INSIDE WOOD-WORK.--FLOORS.--SOFT AND HARD WOOD FLOORS.--TABULATED - STATEMENT OF INSIDE FINISH.--DIFFERENT KINDS OF WOOD.--DOORS AND - FRAMES.--FLY SCREENS.--INSIDE CASINGS.--WAINSCOTING.--INSIDE - SHUTTERS.--WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBING.--KITCHEN SINK AND - FITTINGS.--KITCHEN TABLES.--CELLAR-SINK FITTINGS.--WOOD-WORK FOR - BATH-TUB.--WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--TANK.--PICTURE - MOULDING.--CLOSET - FITTINGS.--BROOM-RACK.--CEDAR-CLOSET.--DRY-BOX.--CLOCK - SHELF.--CHINA-ROOM FITTINGS.--PANTRY FITTINGS.--STAIRWAYS. - - -INSIDE WOOD-WORK. - -All material should be perfectly clear, first-class, thoroughly -seasoned, kiln-dried, dressed material, free from imperfections tending -to impair its use, durability, strength, or appearance. All inside -finish excepting floors should be sand-papered. Where an especially good -finish is desired, all should be scraped as well. - - -FLOORS. - -In preparing for floors, it is not unusual to make arrangements for -preventing the passage of sound. This is done by deadening. The usual -method is to nail strips about two inches and a half from the top edge -of the joist, on which are laid one-inch boards. This leaves an inch and -a half between their surface and the upper edge of the joist. This may -be filled in with concrete, mineral wool, or other non-conducting -material. Either is very effective in preventing the passage of sound -from the floors to the rooms below. In a dwelling-house where two -floors only are in common use, it is only necessary to deaden the second -floor. - -A permanent sheathing floor of the same material that is used for rough -siding may be placed over all joists of first and second floors for a -floor during the plastering of the house. This does not act as -deadening, unless concrete or mineral wool be placed over it. It is well -to have a floor of this kind for use during plastering. It also makes -the lower floor warmer. It should be covered with building-paper before -the finished floor is laid. Finished floors should extend throughout the -first and second stories and the attic. They are commonly of pine or -other soft wood. The material is tongued and grooved, secret-nailed, and -should be smoothed off after laying. The boards should never be wider -than five and a half inches, nor less in thickness than seven-eighths of -an inch. They should be free from sap, large, loose, or black knots. -Hard-wood floors may be of hard pine, oak, maple, or other hard wood -that is readily obtainable or desirable. This material should not be -more than two and three-fourths inches in width, nor less than -seven-eighths of an inch in thickness, and should be tongued and -grooved, secret-nailed, and smoothed off and scraped after laying. A -better grade of pine flooring than that mentioned may be had if desired. -It is best that all floors be laid after plastering. However, this is -not the common practice. The carpenter should cut out flooring as -directed, and prepare for hearths in proper places. Other inside dressed -wood-work should never be placed in position until after the plastering -is finished and dry. - -The following table is from a specification in use by myself, and shows -the kind of lumber, style of doors, finish of wood, painters' finish, -and rooms supplied with plate glass, and the general style of hardware. -The detail specification makes clear the points here outlined. The -filling out of the blanks indicates the range and style of finish which -frequently occur. The lettering of the doors and finish refers to -drawings and details, a part of which are given in this connection. - - +---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+ - | | | D F | T O D | P F | R W P | S H | - | | | O I | H F O | A I | O I L | T A | - | | | O N | I O | I N | O T A | Y R | - | | | R I | C R | N I | M H T | L D | - | | KIND | S S | K . | T S | S E | E W | - | FLOORS. | OF | H | N | E H | - | A | - | | LUMBER. | A . | E | R . | G | O R | - | | | N | S | S | L | F E | - | | | D | S | ' | A | . | - | | | | | | S | | - | | | | | | S | | - | | | | | | . | | - +---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+ - | FIRST FLOOR. | | | | | | | - | Front Hall | Qu. Oak. | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | - | Parlor | " " | A | 1-3/4 |All Oil.| -- | -- | - | Sitting-Room | " Sycamore.| A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | - | Library | " " | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | - | Rear Hall | Gum. | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | - | Dining-Room | " | A | 1-3/4 | -- | -- | -- | - | Chamber | -- -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | - | Kitchen | Plain Oak. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | Bedrooms | -- -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- | - | Pantry | " " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | China Room | " " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | | | | | | | | - | SECOND FLOOR. | | | | | | | - | Front Hall | Gum. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | Chamber | Pine. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | " | " | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | Rear Bedroom | Poplar. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | Alcove | Pine. | E | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | Bath-Room | Qu. Oak. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | Rear Hall | Pine. | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - | Other rooms | " | D | 1-3/8 | -- | -- | -- | - +---------------+--------------+-----+-------+--------+-------+-----+ - -It may be said, in general terms, in regard to the different kinds of -wood used in finishing a house, that, all things considered, hard wood -of one kind or another is preferable, for the reason that it stands the -general wear and tear of house-keeping with less evidence of the -struggle. Soft wood--pine or poplar--is only to be used because it is -cheaper than the other. Quartered oak, quartered sycamore, cherry, -maple, walnut and chestnut may be classed as the hard woods in ordinary -use in finishing houses of moderate cost. Gum is difficult to class. It -is neither hard nor soft. Others might be mentioned in this same -connection. Pine and other resinous woods are mentioned as soft woods; -as is also poplar, called in some sections white-wood. Any of these -woods may be oil-finished, according to the general formula indicated -elsewhere, or any of them may be stained. Birch stains very nicely. - - -DOORS AND FRAMES. - -Door-frames, when rabbeted, should not be less than one and -three-eighths inch in thickness. Sometimes the strip is screwed to the -frame. In that case the frame is often not more than one and one-eighth -inch thick. One and three-eighths inch, however, is better. Front doors -or principal entrance doors are frequently hard wood when all the others -are soft wood. All outside doors are generally filled with glass in -their upper panels. Sliding doors should be the same general design as -other adjacent doors. One additional panel to each additional twelve -inches in excess of width of other doors may be provided. Sliding doors -should be hung from above. Hard-wood doors are usually solid. All -excepting pine are best made of a veneer, one-fourth inch thick on a -one-and-three-eighths-inch pine body, as indicated by Fig. 35. Sometimes -doors are made in two thicknesses of hard wood. This is not as good as -a single thickness. Three thicknesses are better. The only door to be -recommended, however, is the veneered door. Such doors will not warp; -others are liable to do so. Transoms may be hung on pivots, and should -be provided with catches, and, if heavy or high, with adjustable lifts. -Transoms are sometimes used in doors on the second floor, though this -practice is less common than in the past. Where doors with transoms are -used, it is not uncommon to have the closet doors extend to the full -height of the transom tops, and provide additional top panels. Doors six -feet ten inches in height, or less, and not more than one and -three-eighths inch in thickness, may be hung on two three-and-one-half -by three-and-one-half-inch buts. If higher than this or wider than three -feet, they should be hung on three buts or hinges. - -[Illustration: Fig. 35] - -Doors in unfinished cellars may be made of two thicknesses of -seven-eighths beaded flooring; frames the same as in rooms above. A -seven-eighths batten door, with one-and-three-eighths-inch frame, should -be provided for man-hole in cellar. Scuttle doors, where required, may -be seven-eighths inch in thickness, battened. - -[Illustration: Fig. 36] - -Cuts 35, 36, 37 indicate ordinary style of inside door and window -finish, the sizes and heights being marked. Doors from dining-room to -china-closet and china-closet to kitchen should be hung on double-spring -hinges, so that they will swing either way and come back to position. -The slide from the kitchen to china-closet or dining-room should be hung -the same as sash, with plaited cotton sash-cord, pulleys, and weights, -and provided with lifts and bolt fastenings. - -[Illustration: Fig. 37] - -Frames should be provided for opening into bay windows, window-seats, -alcoves, and pilasters. - -Stop beads for glazed and sliding doors should be secured with -round-headed screws. - -There should be corner beads for external angles. - - -FLY SCREEN. - -In the modern house all outside openings, from cellar to attic, are -provided with fly screens. They are now made by concerns who make it a -business to do this work, and are much better than those made by the -ordinary carpenter. They are arranged so that they will slide up and -down on the inside or outside stop, and are finished in every way to -correspond with the other wood-work of the house. They need not be more -than three-quarters of an inch in thickness if properly made. A small -strip is secured to the stop bead, and a corresponding groove is cut in -the screen frame. A spring therein holds it firm, and admits of their -removal without trouble or waste of time. Special hardware is provided -for door and window screens. - - -INSIDE CASINGS. - -The commonest way of constructing casings at this time is indicated in -Figs. 35 and 36, showing inside of doors and windows. This is one of the -least expensive forms, and is adapted to all ordinary work. The casings -are usually seven-eighths inch thick, the corner and plinth blocks one -and one-eighth inch thick. The plinth block comes at the bottom of the -casing. One reason that this form of casing is in such general use is, -that the corner block conceals any slight shrinkage which there may be -in the wood. Where there is a mitred or flush joint, the shrinkage is -certain to show. Casings as elaborate as any one is inclined to pay for -may be used. Window, door, alcove, and other casings are generally all -of one design in a room. All girders and projections below ceilings -should be cased. - - -BASE. - -The base-board around the room should be plain, so that it may be -readily cleaned. Where it is ornamented, it adds nothing to the -appearance of the room. There should be a base for all plastered walls. -Generally they should be not more than eight inches high, seven-eighths -inch thick, bevelled at the top and a quarter round at the bottom. A -five-eighths-inch adjustable lip may be put on at the top, to take up -the inequalities in the plaster. The closet base may be formed of a -quarter round only if it is plastered and skimmed to the floor. It is -well to have as little wood-work as possible in the closet. - - -WAINSCOTING. - -Wainscoting kitchen, bath, and other rooms is not as common as it once -was. This is because wood-work is more difficult to keep clean than -plastering. Wherever there is wainscoting, there must necessarily be -joints. These are difficult to keep clean. Panel wood-work, or other -form of decoration for wall or ceiling, may be used in rooms according -to the disposition of the owner and the taste of the architect. - - -INSIDE SHUTTERS. - -Inside shutters are not so universally used in good houses as they were -a few years ago. Draperies, though more expensive, are preferred, and -are taking their place. Inside sliding shutters, arranged in several -sections and constructed according to the general plan described for -fly-screens, are in more common use. Rolling slats which roll into a -pocket are to be thought of only in connection with an expensive -dwelling. The common inside shutter is ordinarily seven-eighths inch in -thickness, four panels wide, beaded, and cut at the meeting rail; and -the four centre panels are provided with movable slats. The special -designs of inside shutters mentioned are manufactured by various -establishments throughout the country, and are advertised in various -magazines and periodicals. Under any circumstances the owner will have -to investigate proprietary goods and special furnishings for himself. -They are not to be considered in a work of this kind. - - -WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBING. - -All should be put up in a way to make plumbing readily accessible by the -removal of screws. The pipe duct should be located as required in the -kitchen, and pass from basement to attic floor. The inside measurement -should be seven by twelve inches. It should be constructed of seven -eighths-inch lumber. In case of stud partitions, the duct may be let -into the wall the full depth allowed by studding. The front will project -into the kitchen. All should be of clear lumber, the same as other wood -used in finishing. A ventilating opening, five inches in diameter, may -be provided at the top of the duct. This may be connected with pipe and -funnel, or other device, placed over the kitchen range. The carpenter -should provide pipe boards for all pipe runs. The following, in regard -to wood-work for plumbing, is from the specification of an architect: - - KITCHEN SINK AND FITTINGS.--Wood rim, 7/8 by 2-1/2 inches; skirt, - 7/8 by 6-1/2 inches; support on cleat at back, plain oak, - 1-3/8-inch turned legs in front. - - SPLASH-BOARD.--7/8 by 14 inches, scurfed back; 7/8 by 2 inches, - plain top. - - DRAIN-BOARD.--Shall be 22 inches long by 21 inches wide, 7/8 inch - thick, 1 inch incline; channelled top; skirt, 3 by 7/8 cleated with - two cleats at bottom. One end shall rest on sink, side on wall - cleat, other end on turned leg. - - Full length of tables, sink, and drain. - - TABLES.--There shall be two tables connected with drain and sink, - each 21 inches wide, 2 by 6 inches long, 7/8 thick; skirt, 3 by 7/8 - inches. Cleated back. Secured and supported same as drain. - - OTHER SINKS:-- - - CELLAR SINK.--Provide 7/8-by-3-inch supporting rim, 2-1/2 inches by - 7/8 inch top. 1-3/8 square legs. - - BATH-TUB.--Case sides and ends with 7/8-by-2-3/4-inch oak board, - tongued and grooved material, secret-nailed. Batten foot-casing, - and put in in one piece with round-headed blue screws. Cap top. - - SPLASH-BOARD.--Wainscoting same as tub casing, 6 inches high. Cap - top in two members 7/8 inch thick. - - WATER-CLOSET.--Hinged flap and seat, each 7/8 inch thick; skirt, - 7/8 by 5 inches; support on 1-3/8 turned legs in front, cleat at - back. - - Case water-closet tank, mould top. - - WASH-STANDS.--Provide supports under marble top. Case sides same as - specified for tub. Make cleated door in front of same material. - Provide hinges and fastenings. - - TANK.--A tank shall be placed in attic; capacity, 8 barrels. - Construct with 1-3/4-inch ploughed and tongued material, with two - 3/8-inch rods, bolts, and nuts at each end, and cleats across top - at middle. - - In this house there shall be the following plumbing fixtures, to be - fitted up as above: 1 kitchen sink, cellar sink, sink, 1 bath-tub, - 1 water-closet, 1 wash-stand. - - -PICTURE MOULDINGS. - -Picture mouldings should be provided on all plastered walls excepting -those of kitchen and pantries. It is usual to place the picture moulding -on a line with the top of the door; that is, so that it comes just below -the top of the corner block. - - -CLOSET-FITTINGS. - -Shelves should be seven-eighths inch thick, number and arrangement as -desired. - -The following is a schedule from closet-fittings. Provide hooks in -closets as follows:-- - - One row to cleat on wall 5 feet 3 inches from floor. - - One row under side of shelf. - - One row to cleat on wall 3 feet 6 inches from floor in children's - closets. - - -DRAWERS FOR CLOSETS. - -Drawers for closets are best made by a cabinet-maker. If not, they -should be modelled in all respects after cabinet work. Cedar closets -are not as common as they once were. As people have more to place in -them, there is less confidence in their efficacy. The following is from -a specification:-- - - BROOM-RACK.--Provide in space as directed 1 broom-rack, with - cast-iron broom-holder, for sweep-broom, whisk-broom; hooks for - dust-pan and bucket. - - MEDICINE-CHEST.--Provide in closet a medicine-chest 8 by 10 by 16 - inches, with 7/8 panelled and hinged door. Approved lock. - - Exposed wood-work thereof same as room in which closet is placed. - - CEDAR-CLOSET.--Closet shall be lined, ceiled, and fitted up with - red cedar. - - DRY-BOX.--Secured on wall adjacent to kitchen range shall be placed - a drying-box for scrub-rags, brushes, etc., 8 inches deep by 18 - inches wide by 24 inches high, constructed with 7/8 material, - inside measurements. Provide hinged 7/8-inch panelled door with - fastening. Top, bottom, and shelves shall be perforated with - 3/4-auger-holes for passage of warm air through the box. - - SOAP-BOX.--Constructed same as dry-box. Size, 9 inches deep, 20 - inches wide, 30 inches high. - - Door, 7/8 inch thick, panelled. Provide approved lock. Shelves, 5/8 - thick, set into sides, 3 inches apart. Perforate bottom and shelves - with 3/4-inch auger-holes, and connect top with kitchen or - vent-flue. - - CLOCK-SHELF.--Provide 8-inch moulded clock-shelf, 7/8 inch thick, - in kitchen. - - VENTILATOR. CLOTHES-CHUTE. COAL-CHUTE. COAL-BINS IN CELLAR. - - -CHINA-ROOM SPECIFICATION. - - CUPBOARD (see drawing, Chapter VII.).--Shelves as directed below - and above. Lower shelves 7/8 inch thick. - - Lower doors 7/8 panelled, upper doors glazed. - - Provide hinges and fastenings for all. - - There shall be 8 inches space between 7/8-inch top of lower section - and bottom shelf of upper section. Upper door shall not come below - under side of this upper section shelf. - - TABLE.--Construction same as in kitchen. - - SINK. - - DRAWERS. - - -PANTRY SPECIFICATION. - - CUPBOARD (see drawing, Chapter VII.).--As indicated. Doors below - and shelves above, same as specified for china. No doors above. - - DOUGH-BOARD.--Provide constructed same as tables specified for - kitchen, except that it shall be supported on brackets. - - FLOUR-BIN.--Shall be 18 inches deep by 24 inches high in front, 28 - inches in rear, by ---- long, ---- compartments. Set 4 inches from - floor. Top cleated and hinged. Lumber 7/8 inch thick. - - -FLOUR-BIN. - -The flour-bin described in the specifications is the old kind with the -hinged top. Another kind that has been used successfully is here -illustrated. - -[Illustration: Flour-bin Section.] - -[Illustration: Flour-bin Front] - -The receptacle for flour is pivoted in the manner indicated by the -section. The pivot position is indicated on the drawing by the point of -the arrow. The dotted lines on the section indicate the position of the -flour receptacle when it is open. It is pulled open by the hand. The -knob is shown on the drawing of front. As soon as it is released it -falls back into a closed position. It is pivoted so that it remains -closed unless held open. The front drawing indicates a flour-bin of this -kind with three receptacles; the larger one for flour, and the two -smaller ones for meal and graham. The marble dough-stone can be placed -on the top of a bin of this kind. If there is no other room for the bin -it can be placed in the lower section of the pantry cupboard, and can -take the space ordinarily given one of the doors. The pantry cupboard is -illustrated and described in Chapter VII. - - -BOXES FOR PANTRY SUPPLIES. - -These boxes are constructed on the same principle as the flour-bin, just -described. They are pivoted and arranged in a row, and may be set on a -pantry shelf. The drawing indicates eight of these boxes, four of them -nine by twelve inches, and four five by three and three-fourths inches. -These boxes are of tin, the frame only being of wood. The socket into -which the pivot fits is open at the bottom, so that the box can be -lifted off the pivot and taken out and washed. An arrangement such as -this takes very little room, and the boxes are always closed unless held -open. They are so pivoted that they fall into a closed position as soon -as released. Two of these boxes in a china-closet would be convenient to -hold bread and cake. - -[Illustration: Box for Pantry Supplies.] - - -STAIRS. - -The wood-work of the stairway should always be of hard wood. Where hard -wood is used for entire finish, the stairway is best of the same -variety. The treads should always be one and one-eighth inch in -thickness, and never less than ten inches in width. The risers may be -seven-eighths inch thick and never more than seven and one-half inches -in height; Square or turned newel posts are in common use. Winders -should not be used for the main stairway. Square turns at the landing -should be made. Sometimes the rear stairway is of the same general style -and design as the front. When it is an open stairway, it is necessary -that this should be the case. A rear box stairway, the cellar and attic -stairway, or, in fact, any box stairway, should have the treads and -risers the same thickness and general dimensions as those mentioned for -the front. However, they need not be of hard wood. They should always be -provided with hand-rails. All lumber for cellar or attic stairways -should be clear and dressed, and quite as well finished as that of any -other part of the house. When the cellar is not plastered, the side -lining for cellar stairways should be seven-eighths-inch flooring below -the first-story plastering. This flooring should be dressed on both -sides. The outside cellar-way should have dressed treads and risers one -and three-fourths inch thick. The wall should be capped, preferably with -stone, and the outside cellar door should be of iron. Where economy is -necessary, one-and-three-fourths-inch oak coping and doors may be used. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXII. - - PLASTERING.--GRAY FINISH.--WHITE HARD FINISH.--BACK - PLASTERING.--GAS-PIPING.--TIN WORK.--GUTTERS.--VALLEYS.--DOWN - SPOUTS.--GALVANIZED IRON-WORK.--HOT-AIR - PIPES.--THIMBLES.--PAINTING.--STAINING.--OIL FINISHING.--INTERIOR - STAINING.--FLOOR FINISH.--GLAZING.--PLATE-GLASS.--BEVELLED - GLASS.--CATHEDRAL GLASS.--HARDWARE. - - -It is only within the last ten or fifteen years that it has been at all -common to do two-coat work in plastering. Before that time three-coat -work was almost universal. Most of the plastering done at this time is -what is called "laid-on" work. The first two coats are put on at the -same time. The last coat is put on after these are dry. The laths are -nearly always of pine. There should be one nail for each contact with -the wood-work; that is, four nails to each lath. The mortar should be -made of the best quality of lime and sharp sand. - -A sufficient quantity of hair should be used. The mortar should be -floated, or made smooth, and straightened to receive the wood-work. The -last coat should be put on after the other is thoroughly dry. It should -be trowelled to a smooth surface, and when completed should be free from -chip cracks, stains, and improper mixing of sand. Three-coat work, where -each coat is allowed to become thoroughly dry, is better than two-coat -work. The last coat is usually a white plaster-of-Paris finish, put on -with the skim. - -A gray finish is used more generally at the present time than in the -past. It is put on in place of the white skim coat. - -The natural color is a pleasant gray tint. It may be made smooth enough -for papering. The skim coat, white or gray, may be tinted with fresco -color at less cost than it can be papered. Paper becomes necessary on a -white skim finish after a short time. - -The hard white finish, which is not commonly used at the present time, -is very satisfactory excepting for its extreme whiteness. This finish is -made by the use of white sand and skim rubbed and floated down until -only a sufficient amount of the lime or skim proper remains to cement -the sand to the wall. The same kind of a finish with gray sand is very -satisfactory. - -Proprietary finishes for plastered walls are now used to some extent in -the better class of work. They are very hard, of waterproof texture and -of any color desired. The coloring of finish for plastering is -ordinarily not successful. However, some of the proprietary colored -goods before the public are very satisfactory when well put on. The one -difficulty in the way of their use is in getting the plasterer to handle -properly a thing with which he is not familiar. - -Back plastering is common in very cold climates, and is done by -plastering on the back of the sheathing between the studding. It is -independent of the inside plastering. - -Cement pavements in floors are considered in the previous chapter. - - -GAS-PIPING. - -Gas-pipes are placed in a house before lathing. The gas company which -supplies the illuminating or fuel gas furnishes the inspection for each -set of pipes. Below is given a form of specification in use by an -architect in a natural-gas region. - - -GAS. - - ILLUMINATING GAS.--Provide and fix gas-pipe and fittings according - to gas company's regulations. All pipes shall be concealed, - excepting where it is desired to attach a burner. Cap pipes. - Lights to be placed as indicated by table below. - - FUEL OR NATURAL GAS.--Provide and fix pipe and fittings according - to company's regulations. Company's certificate of approval will be - required before payments are made. Cap pipes until mixers and - burners are attached. - - Valves and connections shall be provided preparatory to mixer and - burner connections. Provide connection with street mains. - -TABLE OF DISTRIBUTION. - - +-------------------------+-----------------+---------------+ - | |ILLUMINATING GAS.| | - | FLOORS. +-----------------+ NATURAL-GAS | - | |CENTRE. |BRACKET.| FIRES. | - +-------------------------+--------+--------+---------------+ - | | | | | - | FIRST FLOOR. | | | | - | | | | | - | Parlor or Reception Room| - | - | - | - | Porch | - | - | - | - | Sitting-Room | - | - | - | - | Front Hall--newel | - | - | - | - | Dining-Room | - | - | - | - | Library | - | - | - | - | Chambers--each | - | - | - | - | Rear Hall | - | - | - | - | Bedrooms--each | - | - | - | - | Kitchen gas stove| - | - | Range. | - | Pantry | - | - | - | - | China-Room | - | - | - | - | Cellar | - | - |{Furnace. | - | | | |{Laundry stove.| - | | | | | - | SECOND FLOOR | | | | - | | | | | - | Chambers--each | - | - | - | - | Bedrooms--each | - | - | - | - | Alcove | - | - | - | - | Front Hall | - | - | - | - | Rear Hall | - | - | - | - | Bath-Room | - | - | - | - | Attic | - | - | - | - +-------------------------+--------+--------+---------------+ - - -TIN WORK. - -It is now entirely possible to get first-class tin plate for -architectural uses. The process is very simple. Require and pay only for -a tin plate stamped with a reputable maker's name and brand. There is a -general effort upon the part of tin-plate dealers to raise the standard -of tin in this way; and there are now a number of manufacturers of -integrity who are pursuing the course of branding a first-class tin -plate. All tin work should be painted on the under side before it leaves -the shop. - - -GUTTERS. - -In the matter of general utility the hanging gutter is ideal. It is -below the eaves, where its overflow can injure nothing. It is easy to -reach all parts of it in case of repair. If it is necessary to remove -any of the shingles or other roof covering, the gutter need not be -disturbed. There are those, however, who object to the appearance of a -hanging gutter. A galvanized iron gutter made of No. 26 iron, in form as -per Fig. 33, and which runs four inches above the overflow line at all -times, may be placed on the first or second row of shingles or slate, -and will give very good satisfaction. It is certainly much better than a -wood tin-lined gutter. - - -VALLEYS AND OTHER TIN WORK. - -All valleys should be lined with twenty-inch tin. The connection between -all roof and vertical surfaces should be flashed and counter-flashed; -that is, pieces of tin should be bent to conform to the vertical and -horizontal surfaces, and slipped under the slate or shingles so as to -lap both horizontally and vertically. This is the flashing. The -counter-flashings are the lapped pieces of tin which extend into the -vertical surfaces, and down over the flashings proper. - -All wood-work which projects in excess of one and three-eighths inch -from any vertical surface, should be covered with tin. Hip and ridge -coping should be covered with tin in the manner described in chapter -where roofs are considered. - -Down spouts should be provided to carry the water from all roofs to the -ground. The presence of more than one gable in the front part of the -building frequently makes more than one down spout necessary. Where the -house is not too large, one five-inch spout will usually take all of the -water from the roof. For a small structure a four-inch spout will serve -the same purpose. Three and four inches are in common use for carrying -water from the main roof where the continuous course of the gutter is -interrupted by gables or dormers. The cistern down-spout should be -provided with cut-off or preferably a switch spout, which connects by a -drain pipe with a dry well or street gutter. Such connections should -never be made with the sewer where a down spout is intended to supply a -cistern. In connecting a roof with a cistern it should be borne in mind -that it is not always so much the size of the cistern which insures a -constant supply of water, as it is the amount of roof surface connected -with the cistern. - -Porches are usually provided with two or three inch down spouts -according to the amount of roof to be drained. - -Flat roofs are best when made with a standing seam. It admits of the -expansion and contraction of the tin without injury to the joint. - -Copper has been extensively used on the better class of buildings during -recent years. The improvement in the quality of tin has rendered its use -unnecessary excepting for down spouts and ornamental purposes. New -processes in the manufacture of sheet copper, and the electroplating of -other sheet metals with copper, promise to reduce the cost of that -material for architectural purposes, so that it will be better and -cheaper than tin. When such claims are substantiated the public will be -informed thereof, through the usual channels. - -Galvanized iron does not have the general architectural uses that were -common to it a few years ago. For down spouts in excess of four inches, -No. 26 galvanized iron should be used. - -Hot-air pipes which connect the furnace pipes in basement with the -second floor are usually three and three-fourths by twelve inches in -size. Before they are placed, all contiguous wood-work should be lined -with tin. In frame houses the pipes should be covered with iron lath. -They should continue above baseboard, with register opening on second -floor and below joist with collar in basement. Where pipes run in an -outside wood wall, which they should do only in case of extremest -emergency, the back and sides of the pipe should be lined with several -thicknesses of asbestos paper. - -A zinc drain should be provided from the refrigerator to the outside of -brick wall. This drain is one inch in diameter, and comes up through the -floor with funnel-shaped opening at the top. An ordinary six-inch tin -funnel let into the tube will answer every purpose. Thus the discharge -pipe from the refrigerator may be readily placed over it. - -Thimbles should be provided for the plasterer when he is putting on the -last coat. Flue stops should be placed therein after plastering is -finished. These are for stove connections with brick flues. - - -PAINTING. - -Painting is not so serious a problem as it once was. We hear about -people buying their own paint, the lead and everything that goes with -it, and having it mixed under their personal supervision. But even this -is not satisfactory. After a short time the paint begins to look chalky -and dingy. When the mixing of the paint is not done under the -supervision of the owner, and the result is as above stated, the painter -is often accused of dishonesty. - -A painter does not ordinarily have the facilities or knowledge for -properly mixing colored paints. In order to get satisfactory results in -painting, we may again fall back upon the integrity of an established -manufacturer of proprietary goods,--that is, upon ready-mixed paints. -Not all are good. Most of them are made as cheap and common as possible; -but the best results can be secured from really good ready-mixed paints. -Any large dealer of established reputation, who is not himself a -manufacturer of a cheap paint, may ordinarily be relied upon for a -correct opinion. - -Preparatory to painting, all knots should be coated with shellac. All -work should be painted with three coats,--one priming, and two -following. One can always be sure of getting the color wanted in -ready-mixed paints of the best quality. All outside frames should be -primed before setting. The painter should follow the carpenter, and -prime all dressed wood-work as put up. Putty work may be done after -first coat, or before final color is applied. There is no advantage to -be derived in painting shingles after they are put on. The paint gathers -in a heavy ridge on the shingle next to the butt of the one above it in -a way to let the moisture lie therein, so that it will rot at this -point. - -Brick-work may be painted as specified for wood-work, excepting that the -first coat, or priming, should be put on very heavy. - -Tin and iron work should be painted with one coat of metallic paint as -soon as put up. Tin unexposed to view should receive a second coat of -metallic paint before the building is completed. Tin work exposed to -view should have two coats of paint on a metallic prime, same as house. - - -EXTERIOR STAINING. - -Shingles should be dipped in stain and then stood in a trough, so that -they will drain to a barrel. Other external wood-work should have two -heavy coats of stain applied with a brush. Weather-boarding is sometimes -dipped into a trough filled with stain, and then set so that it will -drain therein. Shingle stain is a proprietary finish, and regularly -advertised in leading periodicals. - - -INTERIOR STAINING. - -The staining of interior finish is now rendered simple and satisfactory -by the use of proprietary stains. Sometimes the stain is put on direct, -without first applying filler. At other times a filler of cornstarch and -oil, or a proprietary mixture, which is preferable, is used. One or two -coats of prepared oil-finish follows the application of the stain. The -various manufacturers of interior stains furnish wood samples which -indicate the variety of this material manufactured. - - -OIL FINISHING. - -All wood to be oil-finished should first be filled. The antique and acid -stained effects are derived by the use of different kinds of fillers, -which close the pores of the wood and stain it the color desired. -Proprietary fillers and oil finish may be most successfully used, for -the reason that they are generally prepared by men who have put their -capital into the business for the purpose of getting a return. Such -people cannot put a bad article permanently on the market without -feeling the result themselves. Therefore, those who are permanently -successful in the manufacture of proprietary goods can generally be -relied upon. - -In the finishing of wood-work all under coats should be rubbed with dry -hair-cloth, burlap, or fine sand-paper. On top of the filler two coats -of prepared oil finish should be applied; the first one rubbed as above, -and, if desired, the last left bright. A dead finish may be secured by -rubbing down the last coat with fine pumice stone and water or oil. - -External exposed wood-work and bath-rooms may be finished with a -water-proof varnish by treating as above, excepting that the last coat -should be a water-proof oil finish made by some well-known manufacturer. - - -FLOOR FINISH. - -All manufacturers of first-class interior finishes prepare a special -floor finish. It is usually applied in two coats over a filler as -described. In such cases the filler is not stained. Each coat is -thoroughly rubbed. A satisfactory floor finish may be made by washing -the clean wood floor with a solution of salt and water, and afterwards -saturating with paraffine wax, and then rubbing. - - -GLAZING. - -All glass should be embedded in putty and secured with glazier's tacks -and putty. American sheet glass is made in two thicknesses--single and -double strength--and in four qualities. _A_ or _AA_ only should be used -in a good house. - -Plate glass costs about five or six times as much as double-strength _A_ -American sheet. A thumb rule for calculating the cost of plate glass, -which is not strictly accurate but which gives a general idea, is to -calculate on from fifty to seventy-five cents per square foot. - - -CATHEDRAL GLASS. - -Of cathedral glass proper there is only one quality. In ornamental and -colored glass work the different kinds of glass used will not be here -enumerated. Bevelled plate is becoming quite common. Generally speaking, -cathedral glass may be arranged in geometrical forms in sash with wood -separations or muntins. Cathedral glass proper for such purposes costs -from twenty-five to thirty-five cents a square foot. Cathedral glass -leaded may cost almost any amount in excess of a dollar per square foot. -In selecting cathedral glass for sash with wood separations, the best -and most satisfactory results may be reached by choosing the lighter -tints, and not having more than one or two colors to the window. - - -HARDWARE. - -It is difficult if not impossible to write a general specification for -the hardware which goes into a house. It cannot be done excepting by -specifying particular goods, which cannot be done here. However, a few -general statements in regard to hardware may not be amiss. The cheapest -locks used should have brass fronts and bolts, and be of the mortise -pattern. Night-locks should be provided as desired. Outside knobs of -rear door and those inside the kitchen may be of bronzed iron. The price -of bronzed-faced locks is not much greater than brass-faced locks. A -good bronzed-iron knob has not been made up to this time. Therefore, the -fixtures for the front door, if not all others, should be of real -bronze. - -Butts of bronzed iron have been made which are very satisfactory. Sash -locks should be provided for all windows. Sliding-door hardware should -be of real bronze. The locks should be what is known as "astragal" -fronts, and the trimmings flush. Sliding doors should be suspended from -above on hangers. Bolts of wrought-iron should be placed on all outside -rear doors, and, if desired, on the inside of all chamber and bedroom -doors; always on the bath-room door. Such bolts may be mortised or -otherwise, as desired. Foot and top bolts may be provided for double -doors and for sash. Pivots should be provided for all transoms; transom -lifts as desired, also sash lifts. There should be wooden base knobs -with rubber buffers at all doors. Double-spring hinges should be -provided for doors leading to and from kitchen and china-closet or -passage. Necessary drawer hardware should be provided, and butts, knobs, -and fastenings for inside shutters. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIII. - - PRACTICAL PLUMBING.--WOOD-WORK FOR PLUMBER.--EXCAVATING FOR - PLUMBER.--WATER DISTRIBUTION.--OUTSIDE - FIXTURES.--HYDRANTS.--STREET-WASHERS.--SOFT-WATER - SUPPLY.--HOT-WATER SUPPLY.--SOIL PIPE.--INSIDE FIXTURES.--KITCHEN - SINK.--CELLAR SINK. - - -In a previous chapter plumbing was considered from a sanitary -standpoint, and the conditions of safety set forth. In this chapter it -remains to consider plumbing work in a more practical way; to consider -it with reference to its execution, assuming that it is desired to reach -the best results. This means, primarily, good work; then good work with -the least expenditure of money. - -The carpenter usually provides all necessary wood-work for the plumber. -This means boards and runs on which pipes are to be placed, the pipe -duct and other wood finish. It is best that the carpenter should do this -in order that it may be well done. There should be specified in the -carpenter's contract exactly what he is to do, so that he may calculate -on a definite basis. All of the cutting work, where cutting is -necessary, should be done by the carpenter. The plumber is not usually -supplied with tools of the right kind for doing this, and is as liable -to botch carpenter work as a carpenter would be to botch the plumbing -work. - -The plumber should do all of his own excavating. This includes trenches -for pipes of all kinds to and from the house. After the pipes and drains -have been placed therein, he should make fills and thoroughly tamp the -earth so as to restore the surface to its original condition. This may -be best done by putting in a small quantity of earth at a time, ramming -it down and then pouring water on it. Even after this the drain space -should be left with a slight crown, as the earth will settle a little -more than it is possible to make it by artificial means. Superfluous -earth should be removed from the building and lot. - -Plumber's excavating is not included in the general contract. If there -is any superfluous earth in connection with his work, he, and not the -general contractor, should remove it. Contracting methods are explained -in another section of the book. - - -WATER DISTRIBUTION. - -Lead should be used for all purposes where pipes are exposed to view and -where they come in contact with the earth. This is common practice. -Sometimes, however, brass or planished copper pipes and fittings are -used where they are exposed to view. Brass makes very beautiful and -satisfactory work. Iron pipe, galvanized inside and out, is occasionally -used for exposed work. It does not look as well, however, as lead pipe. -Galvanized iron pipe is also frequently used where not exposed to view, -and where it does not come in contact with the earth. Objections will be -made to this by plumbers who are used to doing lead work. In all -hospitals where the best work is done iron or brass pipe is used, and -lead pipe and connections are entirely dispensed with. However, the use -of lead pipe where exposed to view and where in contact with the earth, -and iron pipe galvanized for other places, makes most excellent and -beautiful work for dwelling-houses. The connections between iron and -lead pipe should be of brass. - -The water works of many cities and towns are from direct-pressure mains. -It is common for such pressure to be forty pounds to the square inch -under ordinary conditions. A fire pressure is much greater. Therefore, -all direct-pressure pipes of lead should be extra strong. Tank-pressure -pipes, those which connect with a tank in the attic or above a -water-closet, may be medium strong. The terms "extra strong" and "medium -strong," as here used, are definite in their meaning, and apply to -regular grades of pipe. The interior fixtures of an ordinary -dwelling-house are supplied with lead pipe five-eighths of an inch in -diameter, or iron pipe three-quarters of an inch in diameter. In the -above will be found all that applies in general terms to an ordinary -specification for water distribution. Special mention will be made -later. - -Stop-cocks should be provided sufficient entirely to disconnect and -drain all pipes, fixtures, and connections. "Stop-and-waste" cocks -should be provided at the bottom of all main risers where they cannot -otherwise be drained. A "stop-and-waste" cock is one which shuts off the -supply from its source, and drains the water from pipes above, so that -it passes out to a receptacle provided for that purpose. In some -instances it is allowed to run to a sink on the cellar floor, or it may -be taken in a bucket. - -The city water-supply for an ordinary dwelling-house is generally -through five-eighths-inch extra strong lead pipe, and is provided with a -stop-box so that the water can be turned off from the house at the -street. - - -OUTSIDE FIXTURES. - -Outside fixtures which connect with the city water are a street-washer -and a hydrant. The street-washer is usually placed in front, so that a -hose may be attached to it for sprinkling purposes. There are many -standard grades of street-washers carried in stock by all plumbers. The -hydrant has about the same lower connections as the street-washer. The -hose connection and opening stand well above the lot grade. It is -usually placed in the back yard or stable. The outlet may have a hose -coupling, and thus be used for sprinkling purposes in the back part of -the lot or otherwise, as desired. Where there are no hydrants, it is -common to run an iron pipe along the ground to connect the front and -back yard. Thus it is not necessary to have so large a supply of hose. -The pipe thus used is three-quarters of an inch in diameter. It is less -expensive than rubber hose, and does not deteriorate. It should have a -short hose connection in front, and hose coupling at the back. - - -SOFT-WATER SUPPLY. - -In many cities the water from the public pipes contains too much lime to -be used for bathing or washing. In such a case it is necessary to supply -cistern water for that purpose. This is done by connecting the cistern -in the yard with a tank in the attic, or some place above the highest -fixture. To do this a force pump is placed in the kitchen. The best kind -to use are those known as double-acting, horizontal, brass-cylinder -force pumps. They may be screwed to the floor, and the handle come up -next to the sink or between the drain-board and the dry-board. When not -in use, this handle can be next to the wall and out of the way. A motor -may be used in lieu of a pump. It is placed over the kitchen sink, and -has connection with city water works. When it is desired to pump water -to the attic, one can turn on the city water at the cock and let it -run. Thus the city pressure is exerted through the motor to pump water -to the attic, and the labor of pumping entirely done away with. The cost -is about fifteen dollars more than a good pump. The suction of such a -pump or motor should be one-and-one-half-inch strong lead pipe, and the -supply to tank in attic one-and-one-quarter-inch lead or iron pipe where -not exposed to view. Where the pump or motor is placed as indicated, it -may be used to pump water directly to the kitchen sink, and it is -generally best that such an arrangement be made. Of course, water may be -drawn from the tank in the attic to this sink, if it is desired to so -arrange it; but where this is done, it is necessary to pump all of the -cold water used in the kitchen to the attic. This is unnecessary. The -sink may have a direct pump connection by means of a five-eighths-inch -strong lead pipe which connects with the tank supply. On the end of this -lead pipe may be a brass or nickel compression cock over the sink. When -it is desired to pump water into the tank this cock is closed, and the -only connection is with the tank above. - -The common size for tank is eight barrels capacity. It should be -constructed of inch-and-three-quarters ploughed and tongued material -with two three-eighths inch rods, with bolts and nuts at each end, and -cleats across top and bottom in middle. The inside should be lined with -four-pound sheet lead; that is, sheet lead which weighs four pounds to -the foot. There should be an inch tell-tale pipe of galvanized iron -which connects with the sink nearest the pump. Sometimes an overflow -which runs to the roof is used, in which case a smaller tell-tale, say -one-half inch in diameter, will serve. There are instances where the -tank in the attic is connected with a special gutter on the roof, above -the line of the tank. Then the tank is provided with a large overflow so -that it may not cause trouble. However, this is a little risky. The -tank is connected with the hot and cold water system and fixtures -subsequently named. - -The hot-water system is as simple as it is efficient. Usually a -heavy-pressure galvanized-iron boiler, of from twenty-four to sixty-two -gallons capacity, is located in the kitchen. It is connected with the -tank by means of five-eighths-inch lead or three-quarters-inch iron -pipe, and with fixtures subsequently named as being supplied with hot -water in the same manner. The water is heated in the range by means of a -water back or water front placed in the fire-box of the range. It is -connected with the boiler by means of five-eighths-inch lead and -three-quarters-inch iron pipe. One pipe from the lower part of the -boiler takes the water to the back. The other carries it to the top of -the boiler, the cold water naturally going to the bottom and the hot -water passing to the top. The hot-water supply for fixtures is drawn -from the top of the boiler. Any one may notice, by passing the hand up -and down a boiler of this kind, that the top is always warmer than the -bottom. Sometimes a wrought-iron pipe is used in a stove in lieu of a -water back. It usually answers the same purpose, though its heating -surface is not so great. It is best to use a pipe back where the boiler -is not connected with soft water. The incrustation from the lime is such -that the back soon becomes filled, and it is much more expensive to -replace than one made of pipe. When the hot water is from the city water -works, the supply is usually directly therefrom rather than from a tank -in the attic. However, it is not uncommon to have a tank supply in the -house where public-water supply is taken to the exclusion of all other, -and it is a better system, though a little more expensive. The hot-water -reservoir is usually placed on an iron stand near the stove. It should -be provided with a draining connection for the purpose of drawing out -all the water when desired. A vent connection from the reservoir to the -tank in attic, or, in the event of no tank being used, to the roof -above, is common as a guard against extra steam pressure. - - -SOIL PIPE. - -Before considering other inside fixtures and fittings, the soil pipe -should be mentioned. It is of cast-iron, light weight, and, when it is -connected with a water-closet, should be four inches in diameter on the -inside, and japanned inside and out. Joints are made at the hubs, and -should be leaded and well calked. Connections with this pipe should be -made by means of Y's of proper size, depending on the size of the drain -which connects therewith. The soil pipe should continue upward and -through the roof to a point at least four feet above the nearest ridge. -Below, it should continue outside of the foundation wall to connect with -the drain. Where there is a sink in the cellar, the soil pipe should be -below the cellar floor. Vitrified or earthenware drain pipe should never -be used inside the walls of a house. - - -INSIDE FIXTURES. - -The kitchen sink may be considered first. They are usually of light -cast-iron. Sometimes they are of pressed steel; again, they are of -cast-iron with an interior porcelain finish. If a common cast-iron sink -is painted, the paint soon wears off. The ideal sink, the one which is -the best in every way, is of porcelain. It has the white, glazed surface -of a fine dish, and is easily cleaned. Any kitchen sink should be -eighteen inches wide, six inches deep, and from twenty-four to -thirty-six inches in length. Thirty or thirty-six is the best. They are -provided with a strainer in the bottom, and have one-and-one-half-inch -light lead "S" trap connection with soil pipe or grease sink, -subsequently considered. Where city water is at hand, the sink should be -supplied through a five-eighths-inch brass or nickel-plated self-closing -cock. Where the city water is hard, hot and cold cistern water in -addition to city water should be supplied through five-eighths-inch -brass or nickel-plated compression cocks. If the hot water is from the -public water works, a self-closing cock should be used. All cocks should -be screwed to a soldered nipple, and not "wiped" or joined directly to -the lead pipe. In this way, it is not necessary to wipe a joint every -time the cock gives out. A smaller sink, size as desired, may be used in -the china-closet or butler's pantry. Such a sink is not in common use -excepting in the more expensive houses. - -The cellar sink should be sixteen by sixteen inches, ten inches deep, -and should be provided with strainer, and an inch-and-a-half light lead -"S" trap connection with soil pipe. If city supply only is desired, it -may be had through five-eighths-inch brass self-closing cock. Where -connection is made with cistern, it may be by means of one-and-one-half -inch pipe and a cast-iron pitcher pump; if not this, a well, driven or -otherwise, may be similarly connected by means of a pitcher or lift -pump. This cellar sink is the kind that may be used in connection with -the laundry previously described. Where stationary tubs are used, this -sink is not necessary. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIV. - - PLUMBING WORK - CONTINUED.--BATH-TUBS.--BATH-SPRINKLERS.--FOOT-TUBS.--SAFES. - --WATER-CLOSETS.--WASH-STANDS.--LAUNDRY FITTINGS.--SET TUBS. - --OUTSIDE DRAINS.--GREASE SINKS.--NICKEL FITTINGS. - - -The fittings of kitchen and other sinks are fully considered in Chapter -V., which has to do with kitchens and pantries. It is sufficient to say, -however, that the only visible wood-work is the rim and wooden legs, -which support the sink proper, and the splash-boards at the side tables -as described. - - -BATH-TUBS. - -A great deal might be said on this subject, which must be left unsaid -for the want of space. The ideal bath-tub, the one which in every way is -the most satisfactory, is made of porcelain, same as the sinks -described. They are beautiful in appearance, easily cleaned, and -altogether very satisfactory. However, they are expensive. For the tub -alone the cost is about one hundred dollars more than for one of copper. -They are used in houses where the matter of cost is not of great -importance. Cast-iron, porcelain-lined, and cast-iron tubs, painted, are -used occasionally in dwellings. They are more expensive than the copper -tubs. An iron porcelain-lined tub is much less expensive than solid -porcelain, and is very satisfactory. The iron and porcelain tubs do not -require side or end casings of wood. They stand clear of wall and floor. -As is known, tubs are of varying sizes and forms, the usual length being -from four and one-half to six feet. The tubs known as the "French" -pattern are commonly four and one-half feet long, and deeper and wider -than the ordinary copper tub. The weight of the copper varies from nine -to sixteen ounces to the foot; fourteen-ounce copper tubs are in most -general use. The French pattern of tub is coming into more general use -than the others in the best class of work. As stated before, it is wider -and deeper, though shorter than the old six-foot tub of the common -pattern. It does not require as much water to get the same depth in the -shorter tub as in one that is longer. As no one cares to lie down in the -bath-tub, six feet in length is not necessary; four and one-half feet is -ample. - -The ordinary fixtures which go with a bath-tub of moderate cost are the -combination bath-cock with rubber hose and sprinkler, and a plug and -chain. All the metal work is nickel-plated. A combination bath-cock -connection with hot and cold water mixes the water as it passes into the -tub, so that the proper temperature may be secured by the adjustment of -the valves. - -The most objectionable feature to the tub of general construction is the -overflow which connects with the waste. It is simply a tube which has a -single opening below the bath-cock to the waste pipe. This soon becomes -foul. Various ingenious devices have been arranged for doing away with -this kind of overflow. Arrangements are provided which connect directly -with the outlet, and which may be readily removed and cleaned. These -prevent the passage of water to the drain when tub is in use. By a -movement of a handle in the top the passage may be opened below to allow -the water to pass out. There are many devices constructed on this -principle. In some instances they add only two or three dollars to the -cost of the plumbing outfit, and are certainly worth the extra expense. -There are arrangements where the finish is more elaborate, the details -more complete, and the cost largely in excess of the figure here named. -The same device applies to the various tubs, porcelain, iron, or copper. -Formerly it was common to have a large sprinkler connected with hot and -cold water above the tub; this is now unusual. It was impossible to use -this sprinkler without wetting the head. For that reason the hose and -sprinkler has largely taken its place in ordinary work. However, the -sprinkler is a very good thing, though it is not put in excepting where -the hose attachment is also supplied. - -Another modern arrangement which has to do with the sprinkler is a -surrounding rubber curtain, which is supported by a plated ring on a -level with one's head when standing. This prevents the splashing of -water out of the tub. It goes against the curtain, and is thus deflected -into the tub. Various arrangements on this principle, looking to hot or -steam baths, have been devised. They surround the person bathing, -leaving only the head exposed, and discharge the warm water into the -confined space surrounding the body. This is a makeshift to take the -place of hot and steam baths. In some instances, one-third of the foot -end of the tub is fitted with a copper-lined enclosure on three sides, -with shower at top. One may stand in this space and use the shower as -with the curtain. Additions are sometimes made to this arrangement, -wherein the side spray or needle bath is provided. It is so called from -the needle size of the streams, which are emitted from certain pipes. -All of these showers are connected with regulating valves, so that any -desired temperature of water may be maintained by proper adjustment. In -some very elaborate bath-rooms showers are provided at the side of the -room where there is a marble floor and marble wall surface. These things -are arranged with a multiplicity of detail, showing the ingenuity of -people who have given these matters much study, and which cannot be -fully considered in this connection. Foot-tubs, with hot and cold water -connections, are made of the same material that is used in bath-tubs, -but are not considered in the plans furnished in this book, though they -may be used at will. The bath-tub will serve the same general purpose. -As stated, the bath-tubs connect with hot and cold water; they connect -with soil pipe or drain by means of one-and-one-half-inch light lead -waste pipe, which is trapped by means of an "S" or other trap. - - -SAFES. - -A safe is simply a lead pan which may be placed under the bath-tub, or -other enclosed fixture, to guard against accidents from overflow or -leakage. They are made of four-pound sheet lead, and are usually turned -up from two to four inches all around. The lead is formed to a bevelled -strip at the sides and end, the size of the pan being that of the -extreme outside of the fixture. There is usually an inch waste -connection to the cellar or kitchen sink. It would be highly improper to -connect a safe with the drain, trapped or otherwise, as its use under -any circumstances will be occasional, and any water that there might be -in the trap would be certain to evaporate, and in that way the safe -waste would be the means of connecting the foulness of the drain with -the house. Therefore, it is right and proper that it should connect with -the sink or the cellar floor. In that way, any discharge therefrom would -be readily noticed. Wastes are frequently placed under bath-tubs, -generally under wash-stands, when they are enclosed, but rarely or never -under a modern water-closet. They are frequently dispensed with -entirely. - - -WATER-CLOSETS. - -Fig. 7, page 68, indicates, in perspective and in section, the more -common form of water-closet now in use, than which nothing-better has -been devised. The details of the valve connection and general form of -the closet itself, and the means of flushing it, are various, but the -general principle is the same. It is nothing more or less than a large -bowl having an "S" trap connection with soil pipe. The bowl and trap are -of white porcelain ware, in one piece. The form, as here shown, is a -washout closet, and is the one in most general use. Usually a connection -with public water service is provided from a tank above. Trap vent, as -shown, is connected with the outer air above the roof. The seat of the -closet is usually supported from the wall at the back, and rests on the -body of the porcelain, on rubber buffers, which prevent the liability of -breakage or noise, if it falls. Under any circumstances, water-closets -should never be enclosed. - - -WASH-STANDS. - -It has been said that wash-stands are the most dangerous fixtures that -go into a house, and for that reason the greatest care should be -observed in their construction. The only material of which the bowl -proper, for use in a dwelling-house, should be made is porcelain. The -usual form is circular, and about fourteen inches in diameter. However, -they are made in various forms. The details of their construction differ -as greatly as those of the other fixtures which have been named. Bowls -are made which have the same "patent" overflow arrangements as the -bath-tub overflows that have been considered and described elsewhere. It -is usual, however, to use a rubber plug and chain. The top and back of -the wash-stand should be of marble. The top should be one and one-eighth -inch thick, counter-sunk, so that the splashed water cannot run from it -to the floor; the back need be only seven-eighths inch thick, and -generally not more than ten inches high. Sometimes it may be less. The -hot and cold water fixtures are nickel-plated; usually they are made -self-closing, to prevent the waste of water. It is necessary that they -should be so where city water is used. It is part of the city -regulations that all connections of this kind be self-closing. -Wash-stands need not be enclosed below. The marble top may be supported -on iron brackets or turned wooden legs of hard wood. Traps and other -drain connections can be neatly arranged so that their appearance is not -in any sense objectionable in the bath-room or other place. The -wash-stand should have one-and-one-half-inch light lead trapped -connection with the drain or soil pipe. - -Generally speaking, it is not necessary for the trap to be ventilated, -unless it so happen that it is some distance from the soil pipe or -drain. The soil pipe, we know, is always ventilated, and if the -wash-stand is situated some distance from it, it should have a direct -communication with the outer air above the roof. - -Sometimes a pitcher-cock is placed on the wash-stand in the bath-room to -enable the drawing of drinking water when the other connections are with -the cistern, it being assumed in this instance that only the water from -public water works is used for drinking purposes. The pitcher-cock is -simply one with a long neck which extends above the bowl, and is -directed into it, the pitcher being placed under it for the purpose of -filling. - - -LAUNDRY FITTINGS. - -The fittings for a simple laundry apparatus, that would go into a house -of very moderate cost, have been described elsewhere. In this instance -we will consider only the more elaborate arrangements which have to do -with set tubs. They may be of porcelain or plain cast-iron, of cast-iron -porcelain-lined, or of brown glazed earthenware. The porcelain is of the -same general character as that mentioned for the bath-tub and sinks, and -is an expensive and very elegant material. The porcelain-lined iron tubs -are in more general use, for the reason that they are less expensive -than those of all porcelain. Brown earthenware tubs are coming to be -favorably considered, and are in every way satisfactory. Tubs made of -wood, slate, or other material, where they are in several pieces, are -objectionable. Those mentioned above are one-piece tubs, and are -generally set three together. The porcelain or brown earthenware tubs -usually have wooden rims. Sometimes these tubs are provided with covers, -though it is usual and preferable that covers be not used, and that the -water be supplied from above. The hot and cold water fixtures are -nickel-plated compression cocks, which connect with hot and cold water -sources. Generally speaking, it is best, where set tubs are used, that -an independent apparatus for heating water be provided; that is, a -laundry water heater, of which there are many different kinds, and which -are constructed on the same general principle as the arrangement -mentioned in connection with the kitchen and other water-heating -apparatus. It is entirely possible, however, to make connections with -the water-heating apparatus of the kitchen. - -The drain connections are of one-and-one-half-inch light lead, and are -independently trapped for each tub. They lead to the main drain, -connecting with sewer or vault. - - -OUTSIDE DRAINS. - -Drains outside of the house should be of vitrified or glazed earthenware -pipe, laid below the action of frost, with proper slant. They should be -well bedded and have smoothly cemented joints. The slant need be very -slight, eighteen inches in eighty feet or less may be used. It is -especially desirable that the joints be thoroughly cemented, and that -they be smooth on the inside, so that the foul matter passing through -the interior will not lodge against any projections. The surface or ends -of the pipe should never be clipped or cut for connections; "Y's" or -"T's" are used for all connections with other drains. Drain pipes from a -dwelling-house are usually five or six inches in diameter. It is quite -as important that they be not too large as that they be large enough. -Where a pipe is too large, there is not enough water in the bottom to -keep it clean. The illustration here given will make clear this point. A -six and eight inch drain is shown with the same quantity of water in -each. It is common in cases of drain connection with a vault that no -trap in the drain or soil pipe itself be used. Where sewer connection is -made, a vitrified trap of the same size as the drain is used; and it is -provided with a trap vent connection with the outer air by means of -vitrified vent and grate opening at the top. - -[Illustration: Fig. 38] - -Storm-water connections may be made with the main sewer, but it is best -that they be made between the house and the trap of main drain. In this -way there is no danger of the sewer having connection with the down -spouts in the event of the evaporation of the water in the trap of the -storm-water connection. The modern plan of city sewer systems is to have -independent service for storm water and house drain connections. - - -GREASE SINKS. - -The grease sink is lined with brick, and is usually of four or five -barrels capacity. It is cemented the same as the cistern, is generally -twenty or twenty-five feet away from the house, and has a four-inch -vitrified drain connection with the waste from the kitchen sink or other -sink in which greasy water may be deposited. The sink itself has a -siphon connection with the main drain or vault, and, being provided with -an iron top, the deposit of grease or other material may be removed if -necessary. In some instances a sink of this kind is required to be used -to collect all solid matter before the drainage connection passes from -the property. - - * * * * * - -The "S" trap only has been distinctly mentioned. There are hundreds of -others, all constructed upon the same general principle. Some are -provided with mechanical means of closing the opening leading to the -source of supply, and, in addition to this, they are provided with a -seal of water depending upon some form or condition of the "S" trap. -This principle is invariable in the construction of traps. No trap -should be used unless provided with a trap screw of the same size as the -drain itself, which will admit of its being opened when necessary. It is -not uncommon that rings or other jewelry get into the waste of -wash-stand or bath-tub; they may be recovered by taking out the trap -screw. Again, should the trap become fouled or clogged, the matter may -be removed in the same way. - - -NICKEL FITTINGS. - -For the kitchen sink, nickel fittings are preferable to brass, because -they are more easily cleaned. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXV. - - COST OF A HOUSE.--SCHEDULES OF COSTS.--WHAT GOES INTO A - HOUSE.--SCHEDULE "B."--COST DETAILS. - - -What makes the cost of a house? Everything that has been placed on the -lot when the structure is completed. Below is a form or schedule, with -blanks, filled out by an architect for a gentleman for whom he made -plans. - - JOHN SMITH,--As I understand your wants, would estimate the cost of - improvements contemplated on No. Delaware Street as follows:-- - - - Building--1st floor finish hard wood, 2d floor finish poplar, $3,000 - Privy and Vault $35 - Cistern and Connections 50 - Well, Connections, and Pump 35 - Walks, 40 yards at 70 cents 28 - Fences--Tight board, 160 feet at 25 cents, Picket none, 40 - Illuminating-Gas Pipe 30 - Plumbing--Cellar sink 1, Kitchen sink 1, Bath-tub 1, - W. C. 1, W. S. 1, St. Washer 1, City and Cistern Water, 275 - Natural-Gas Pipe, without burners or burner fittings 35 - Gas Fixtures 50 - Mantels and Grates 3, Average cost $40 120 - Furnace 250 - Plate Glass 50 - Cathedral Glass 25 - Electric Work--Door bell 2, Kitchen bell 1 25 - ----- - 1,128 - ------ - Without Architect's fee $4,128 - - -Everything that goes into a house should be fully represented to the -owner. Thus the costs may be fixed and the aggregate understood. If this -were universally done, there would be less said about the unreliability -of architects' estimates. If the architect is very careful to make -known to the owner the quality of everything that he is to have, and, as -well, the general quantities and costs, he is doing his full duty in -this matter. Anything less than this is a neglect of duty. Furthermore, -this should be made a matter of record, so that if changes are made and -the cost altered, a basis for comparison may be at hand. It is the -practice of the writer to use a specification which describes everything -which may be a part of a brick or a frame house, and to stamp out the -parts omitted. For example, in that specification there are specified -brick and cemented floors for cellar. It is the custom to stamp the word -"No" before the words brick floor, so that it reads "No brick floor in -cellar." In other cases it may be "No lattice work in side yard," etc. -Thus the owner of the house knows not only what he is to get, but what -he is not to get, and the exact quality of that which is included as -well as that which is omitted. He has positive and negative information -with respect to his house. This form of specification has been in use -three years, and has been uniformly satisfactory. - -The schedule filled out for Mr. Smith is a printed form, which is handed -to the owner as soon as the building cost is determined. It is in -addition to the detailed specification. In the schedule the cost of the -building is put down at three thousand dollars. The appurtenances are -the items mentioned below the line which gives the price of the building -proper, and in this instance are estimated at $1,128. The house estimate -is $3,000. This makes a total cost of $4,128. The house was a -well-finished building of nine rooms. The parlor and hall were finished -in quartered oak, the dining and sitting rooms in quartered sycamore, -the rear hall in quartered oak, the china-room in sycamore, kitchen and -pantry in plain oak. It would have cost about $125 less to finish the -first floor of this house in soft wood. It is not possible to give -general statements as to the difference in cost of finishing between -hard and soft wood. Twenty to thirty-five dollars a room is generally -ample, though the difference may be greater. - -The privy building was figured at twenty dollars, and the vault at a -dollar a foot. The cistern and connections at fifty cents a barrel. Thus -a hundred-barrel cistern costs fifty dollars. The well pump, which was -located in the kitchen, was a cheap form of horizontal force-pump -fastened to the floor, with the handle coming up near the kitchen table. -It supplied water to the kitchen sink. It, as well as the cistern pump, -was included in the plumbing contract. The walks were ordinary brick -walks laid in sand. Tight-board fence was figured, as shown, at -twenty-five cents a lineal foot. The illuminating-gas pipe was figured -at a little less than the price given on schedule "B," but was ample. -The same may be said of the plumbing work. The gas fixtures were neat -brass goods that looked plain in the store surrounded with very -elaborate ones, but were entirely satisfactory when in the house. The -mantels and grates, as may be judged by their cost, were not very -elaborate. However, they were of wood, the same style and finish as the -room. There were bevelled-glass mirrors above the shelves. The hearth -and facing were of unglazed tile, the grate-frame of brass, the grate -itself club pattern, and altogether it was simple but pleasing. The -furnace was of wrought-iron, riveted joints, with galvanized iron -jacket. It would have cost about fifteen or twenty dollars more to set -it in brick. This price included registers, pipes in the wall, and all -connections. If the building had cost a thousand dollars more, or even -two thousand, the appurtenances need not have cost more than a hundred -to a hundred and fifty dollars additional. There would probably have -been a little more gas pipe, a few more fixtures, and the furnace would -have been somewhat more expensive; or, if the house had cost five -hundred dollars less, the appurtenances would not have represented in -all more than seventy-five dollars difference, providing the general -requirements had been the same. - -The following schedule was prepared for Mr. Brown. His was an eight-room -house; smaller, less elaborate, but just as well built, as the one for -Mr. Smith. He did not have quite as much plumbing, and reduced the other -appurtenances somewhat. Altogether they represent $801. If his had been -a fifteen-hundred-dollar house, and the same general conditions had been -met, the appurtenances would not have cost any less. Likewise, if it had -been a two-thousand-dollar house, they would have cost no more. -Additions to size of rooms or a more elaborate finish would not have -appreciably affected the cost of the appurtenances. It is well to bear -this in mind when building. - - WILLIAM BROWN,--As I understand your wants, would estimate the cost - of improvements contemplated on No. Alabama Street as follows:-- - - Building--1st floor finish hard wood, 2d floor - finish poplar, $1,700 - Privy and Vault $40 - Cistern and Connections 40 - No Well, Connections, and Pump - Walks, 30 yards at 70 cents 21 - Fences--Tight board, 100 at 25 cents, Picket none 25 - Illuminating-Gas Pipe 25 - Plumbing--Cellar sink none, Kitchen sink 1, Bath-tub 1, - W. C. 1, W. S. 1, St. Washer 1, City Water 200 - Natural-Gas Pipe, without burners or burner fittings 30 - Gas Fixtures 35 - Mantels and Grates 3, Average cost $40 120 - Furnace 240 - Plate Glass 20 - Cathedral Glass none - Electric Work--Door bell 1, Kitchen bell none 5 - ____ - 801 - ______ - Without Architect's fee $2,501 - -The two examples given show the method of filling out a cost schedule, -which, by the way, is seldom presented in this form to the owner of a -house by his architect. It now remains to indicate, in general terms, -the basis of values as before given. It is not intended to form this -book on the "every-man-his-own-architect" principle, but it is -constructed on the idea that every one should know as much about the -business in hand as is possible, before calling for other assistance. -For this purpose certain prices are given which are a little in advance -of those charged in the section of country to which they apply. This is -done so that the errors, if any, may be on the side of safety. Generally -speaking, there will not be any great difference in the cost of the -appurtenances mentioned. It is the cost of the building proper which -varies. The cost of the buildings illustrated is given, unless otherwise -mentioned, on a basis of hard-wood finish for the first floor excepting -kitchen, and soft wood above, all finished in oil. - -Below is the schedule "B," so frequently referred to in the description -of house plans. - - SCHEDULE "B." - - Building.--First floor finish hard wood; second floor, soft wood. - - Where estimates are given in the book on the basis of schedule "B," - they include only the building, as mentioned above, and do not - include the following items:-- - - Privy building, $20; vault, $1 per foot for each foot in depth. - - Cistern and connections, $0.50 per barrel; pump, $5 to $35; well, - $0.75 per lineal foot; pump and connections, $5 to $35. (Force pump - included in plumbing contract.) - - Walks of brick, $0.70 per square yard; cement, $1.80 per square - yard. - - Fences: tight-board, $0.25 per lineal foot; picket, $0.50 per - lineal foot, painted three coats. - - Illuminating-gas pipe, $1.50 to $2 per connection. - - Plumbing--Cellar sink, plain iron set $10 - Hot-water boiler and back " 25 - Kitchen sink, city and hot and cold cistern water " 30 - Force pump and tank " 50 - Bath-tub, 14 oz. copper " 30 - Wash-stand " 25 - Water-closet "washout" " 40 - Street-washer " 12 - City service, $0.35 a foot, lineal, laid. - Drain connection, $0.30 a foot, lineal, laid. - [For other piping and connections add twenty per cent of above - aggregate.] - - Natural-gas piping, without burners, $4 a fire. - - Gas fixtures, about $1.50 per burner. - - Mantels and grates, average cost, $40. - - Furnace, for all pipes and connections, nine registers, $240; add - $16 for each additional second-story connection; $8 for first-story - connection. - - Plate glass, $0.50 to $0.75 a square foot, according to size. - - Cathedral glass, plain, $0.30 a foot; leaded, from $1 upward. - - Electric work--door bells, each $6; kitchen bell, $6. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVI. - - VARYING BUILDING VALUES.--COST OF APPURTENANCES.--PRICES OF LABOR - AND MATERIAL ON WHICH ESTIMATES ARE BASED. - - -The cost of building varies in different sections. At the end of this -chapter will be found a list of prices upon which the building estimates -of this book are based. - -The plumbing schedule is formed so that one may see about what the -different items of a completed plumbing outfit cost. Figuring sixty feet -of service and seventy feet of drain, the plumbing outfit would cost, as -indicated, $328. It has been furnished for less. The figures given in -connection with plumbing work are not necessarily accurate. They are -approximately so in detail. As no two plumbers or other mechanics will -figure exactly the same on the same fixtures, or the same material and -labor, it is not to be expected that an architect could form a -thumb-rule schedule which would be satisfactory to plumbers and all -others. In the class of work contemplated in this specification, the -tendency of these figures is in the right direction. They are as nearly -correct as general statements can be. It is known that a single bath-tub -can be fitted up to cost more than the entire plumbing outfit here -mentioned. It would afford no more conveniences to the occupant of the -house, and would be no safer from a sanitary standpoint; and it probably -would require more labor to care for than the one contemplated. The -estimates are on the basis of a specification which would meet with the -approval of the public sanitary inspectors in any of the large cities. - -Where there is a material reduction in the number of fixtures and -connections from the list given, the percentage for other piping and -connections will have to be increased. - -There are various ways of reducing the cost of the outfit. The best way -is to have less of it; for instance, only city water may be used, or, -possibly, only the cistern water. The completed plumbing outfit -mentioned in schedule "B," with the exception of cistern-water -connections, including hot and cold city water for sink, wash-stand, and -bath-tub, has been put in, in plan No. 30, for $245. - -The natural-gas-piping figure, like the others, is liable to vary. -Piping for five fires has been put in for $20, for $15, and for $30. The -burners, the burner valves and mixers, usually cost from four to five -dollars a fire. - -The gas-fixture schedule is priced by the burner, not by the connection. -Each burner of each fixture is counted. Of course one may get a single -fixture which will cost as much as the above rule would figure on a -whole outfit, but that is unusual in moderate-cost houses. Some of the -second-story brackets will cost from ninety cents to one dollar and a -quarter apiece. This will increase the price of burner margin for the -first floor, and allow more elaborate fixtures. - -The mantels are priced to include grate, hearth, facings, and everything -that may go there, excepting fender and blower. One may get a mantel for -$25 or $30, or he may use a grate setting without a mantel, or may go as -far into the hundreds as his inclination and means will lead him. Very -expensive mantels in moderate-cost houses are not in good taste. A $100 -or $150 mantel in a room all of the other wood-work of which did not -cost over half that sum, is in exceedingly bad form. The mantel appears -like a monument; everything around it is insignificant. In buying -mantels from stock in mantel stores, the cheaper ones are generally the -best designed from an artistic standpoint. - -The furnace price is necessarily arbitrary. The owner of a house will be -told that the price here given is too high and too low. A -moderate-sized, two-story, eight-room house, which, counting the -bath-room, would have nine connections, could be provided with a furnace -of wrought-iron or steel, riveted joints, double galvanized-iron jacket, -for $240. The same furnace brick-set will cost from fifteen to twenty -dollars more. The owner of such a house can get a cheaper furnace, or he -can get one which will be much more expensive. Oftentimes when an -architect estimates the price of a furnace to the owner, the latter will -respond with the statement that he has been offered a furnace complete -for ninety dollars. Upon investigation it generally proves that the -furnace is in some one's store ready for delivery; that it will cost -extra to set it, and for all connections, fittings, registers, etc.; and -that the furnace itself is of such a kind that ninety dollars is a high -price for it. There is no doubt that the statement as to furnace prices -will meet with general disapproval from manufacturers. Many will say -that the prices given are ridiculously high, and others, ridiculously -low. Other general statements as to heating apparatus may be found in a -chapter given to that subject in that section of the book devoted to the -Journey through the House. - -The estimates given on plate and cathedral glass are about as -unsatisfactory as anything can be. They merely give the owner a general -idea as to what to expect. - -Electric-work prices are approximately correct for localities where the -facilities for doing this kind of work are at hand. Door and table bell -outfits are now sold and arranged ready to be set up. The methods of -their adjustment are so simple that any one who can read can put them -in. - -The general statement may be made that these prices are approximately -correct in all the larger markets; and that in cases where the building -is far removed therefrom, there must necessarily be additions for travel -of workmen, and other incidental expenses in the transportation of -material and labor. - -The following is the list of prices of material and labor upon which the -building estimates are based:-- - - Excavating, $0.25 a yard. - - Brick in the wall, $9 per M. - - Mason work, $5.50 a yard, laid up. - - Cement floors, $0.70 a square yard. - - Timber, joist, and scantling, less than eighteen feet long, $17 per - M. - - No. 1 common boards, $18 per M. - - Select common pine flooring, count measure, $26 per M. - - Common flooring, count measure, $22.50 per M. - - First quality yellow pine flooring, face measure, $37.50 per M. - - Standard yellow pine flooring, face measure, $30 per M. - - No. 1 poplar flooring, face measure, $28.50 per M. - - No. 2 poplar flooring, face measure, $23.50 per M. - - No. 1 stock boards, $20 per M. - - No. 1 poplar siding or weather-boarding, $18 per M. - - No. 2, $16 per M. - - No. 1 pine siding, $22 per M. - - No. 2, $20 per M. - - Shingles, 16 inches clear butts, best, per M, $3.75. - - Shingles, 16 inches extra, 10 inches clear butts, $3.25. - - Pine lath, per M, $2.50. - - Poplar and pine finishing lumber, $3.75 to $6 per 100 feet. - - Oak or maple flooring, first class, $4 to $6 per 100 feet. - - Oak finishing lumber, $4 to $6 per 100 feet. - -Under certain conditions the above prices are subject to discounts. - - Plastering: three-coat work, plaster-of-Paris finish, $0.25 a yard; - two-coat work, plaster-of-Paris finish, $0.20; gray floated sand - finish, three cents extra on above prices. - - Painting, $0.06 per yard a coat. - - Labor: common labor, $0.15 an hour; bricklayers and masons, $0.35 - to $0.45 an hour; carpenters, $0.20 to $0.30 an hour; tinners, - $0.30 an hour; painters, $0.20 to $0.30 an hour; plumber and - helper, $0.50 an hour. - -The above labor prices are those paid by the contractors. Rarely, -however, are the maximum prices reached. - -There are few subjects on which ideas vary so greatly as values. This -fact may be made apparent when we call to mind that bids on a house let -for $3,000 frequently range $1,000 higher than this figure. - - - - -BUSINESS POINTS IN BUILDING. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVII. - - LOW-COST HOUSES.--METHODS OF MAKING CONTRACTS.--ARCHITECTS' - ESTIMATES.--BUILDING BY THE DAY.--THE SAFEST PLAN.--GUARDING - AGAINST LIENS. - - -A low-cost, well-built house is sought by all. The cost of a house is -largely a question of business management,--one of knowledge. Before -considering the details of contracting for the building of a house, -there are a few general points which should be mentioned. First, it -never pays to make a contract to have a house built for less than it is -worth. In order to get a good house, it is necessary that there be a -margin of profit for the builder. Second, a good house from a -constructive standpoint can only be built by competent mechanics. One -may contract for the building of a house for less than it is worth with -parties who are incapable of doing first-class work, and require a bond -to secure the faithful execution of the contract. A contract or a bond -cannot make a man do good work if he does not know how to do it. It will -not save anxiety or trouble. It may indemnify against actual damages, -but never against trouble and vexation; nor can it compensate for poor -work done in building a home. This matter is mentioned because it is the -fault of a great many people, who are inexperienced in building, that -they are disposed to have work done for less than it is worth. It does -not pay. - -It may be remembered, however, that one builder may be able to build for -less than another. One may have more energy, tact, or general ability -than another. He may have better credit; may be a better buyer. The -result is larger accomplishments. - -In speaking of low-cost houses or cheap buildings, it is not to be -understood that they are cheap or low-cost in the sense of being common -or frail. I mean first-class houses at a relatively low cost; low cost -in a business sense, the best for the money. - -We often hear the statement made that one can tell nothing definite -about the cost of a house until it is finished. One can come as near -knowing what a house will cost, as he can to knowing what he wants -before he begins. One can get prices on what he has in mind, if his -ideas be expressed. He cannot get prices on the unknown. The expression -of one's ideas of a house is through plans and specifications. The fact -that architects' estimates are often too low is because the owner is not -sufficiently informed in house-building to know what he wants until -after the estimate is made. The owner usually expresses a price that he -wishes to pay for his house before he expresses his idea. It may be well -to illustrate this. - -One who wishes to build goes to an architect with some sketches or -prints, which he has been collecting, lays them down and says,-- - -"We're thinking about building a house. We want something like this. -Here are four rooms and a hall downstairs, and four rooms and a -bath-room above. We want to build of wood, and wish to have the house -warm and substantial. Can it be built for three thousand dollars? It's -all we have to put in it." - -"Oh, yes," says the architect; and so it can. A good, comfortable, -substantial house, from the plans indicated, can be built for three -thousand dollars. The architect knows this, and says that the work can -be done for that price. He is ordered to make the plans. In a day or two -the owner comes into his office and says,-- - -"My wife and I were talking over the house last night, and concluded -that we would like to have a bay window from the dining-room,--a place -where we can sit in summer, and put flowers in the winter." - -"All right." - -"And she told me to ask where you were going to put a wash-stand -downstairs. You know we will want some kind of a wash-room." - -"I hadn't thought anything about that," said the architect. "Nothing was -said about it. I supposed that in a house of this size the bath-room was -the only place where you would put a stationary wash-stand." - -"We have to have a place downstairs. We can't go upstairs every time we -want to wash our hands." - -Another two or three days pass. The owner visits the architect again. It -is the old story. He and his wife have been studying the house question -in earnest. They are educating themselves in house-building. The more -they think about it, the more they want, all of which is perfectly -natural and right. It is in the natural order of things. It is the way -the world moves. - -"We were talking about the house, and have about concluded that we will -finish two front rooms upstairs in oak. What do you think it will cost?" - -"If you use oak for all the wood-work, it will cost between forty and -fifty dollars." - -"That isn't much. We'll have it." - -And so the house grows as the owners grow, a little every day. The next -day it is a little more plate glass at a cost of fifteen dollars. Again, -it is bronze hardware at an extra cost of twenty dollars. Then it is -bevelled-glass doors in the china-closet, plastering in the attic, a -tile vestibule, a porch off from the dining-room, and so on. - -The three thousand dollars is exceeded, though probably by something -less than the amount represented by the growth of the owner's ideas. The -architect had made a certain allowance for this development, though it -was not possible for him entirely to foresee it. Of those who build, the -ones who take the greatest interest in the house, those who think the -most about it, are usually the ones who exceed their original -calculations by the largest amount. - -In building, it is important that the architect and the owner thoroughly -understand each other before contracts with the builders are signed. The -wants of the owner must be thoroughly understood, and carefully and -accurately set forth. From the plans and specifications estimates for -all parts of the work should be received, and the cost of everything -known, before obligations are created. The process of making the plans -and specifications, and taking the bids, is educational in its tendency. -It brings to the owner's attention nearly everything that he may want. -Frequently he will find that the first estimates which he gets are -higher than the amount he cared to expend. This is on account of his -growth. He can frequently reduce the cost without positive injury to the -original scheme. - -We will consider how contracts are usually made. Sometimes it is by -making plans and specifications for the entire house, and then asking -for bids on the building as a whole. A general contractor makes his -figures on the various parts of the work, then adds them together and -makes a lump bid. If he is awarded the contract under such a system, he -does part of the work himself and sublets the rest. Possibly he may be a -carpenter; then he sublets the brick work, plastering, tinning, -painting, etc., and, if possible, he makes a profit on all of these -sub-contracts. It does not always happen that he makes figures on these -various divisions of the contract himself when forming his original bid. -He gets sub-bids from various mechanics and adds these to his own in -making up a lump bid. It is known that there is a very wide range of -difference between bids which come in this way. In a house to cost three -thousand dollars the bids not infrequently vary twenty-five to thirty -per cent. The highest bid may be over four thousand dollars. - -Another way of contracting is for the architect or owner, as the case -may be, to take bids on the various details of excavating, stone work, -brick work, carpenter work, painting, plastering, galvanized iron and -tin, glass, plumbing, gas-fitting, etc.; in fact, to detail the work as -much as possible and receive detailed bids. If the work costs too much, -if the bids run too high, one can locate the excess. - -At times one can get a cheaper house by pursuing this plan. Another plan -of building is by the day. Usually this means to employ carpenters and a -foreman, take bids on the material that the carpenters use, and to -sublet the mason work, excavating, painting, plastering, tin-work, -plumbing, etc. Sometimes the mason-work is also done by the day. - -Each plan has its merits. The first mentioned, of letting most of the -work in one contract, is the one in most general use. It is common -practice in this connection to let excavating, mason work, carpenter -work, plastering, tinning, painting, and hardware in one general -contract; then the mantels, gas-fixtures, furnace, plumbing, electric -work, and ornamental glass work are let in separate contracts. It is -difficult for one to specify gas-fixtures, mantels, and similar -fittings, excepting by price. There is no satisfaction in this, for the -reason that the owner or his architect may be able to make quite as good -or even a better bargain than the contractor. Then there is no -opportunity for the builder to arrange for a relatively high price with -those who furnish this class of goods. It is fair for the builder to -assume that he is entitled to a certain percentage for selecting and -negotiating for such articles. The owner may save this for himself by -making his own purchases. - -Plumbing work is frequently separated from the general contract in order -that the owner may exercise his discretion as to the workmen employed to -do this important work. In such circumstances it is not altogether a -matter of cost. It is of the utmost importance that the best of workmen -be employed. - -The articles which cannot be directly specified should be secured -outside the general contract. Altogether, the plan of letting most of -the work in one contract, as outlined, is the best and safest for those -to pursue who are not thoroughly familiar with building operations. - -The plan of subletting the separate contracts to the lowest bidders is -not to be recommended to those without large experience. The difficulty -in locating responsibility for delays is great. There is apt to be -contention, annoyance, and sometimes loss, by this confusion. The plan -of building by the day is more satisfactory for experienced builders -than the one just mentioned, but it has the disadvantage of not fully -representing to the owner before it is finished the cost of his -structure. - -In nearly every city or town there are a number of good builders, not -well supplied with means, who will take a contract for building a house, -work on it themselves until it is finished, and then take another, -never having more than one or two houses on hand. One can frequently get -good work from such builders at a much less cost than from large -contractors. The larger contractors employ a foreman at about the same -price a day that the small contractors expect to get per day out of -their entire contract. Then, in addition to that, they receive their -profits of ten, fifteen, or other per cent for their time and attention. -Any one building with the help of the smaller contractors must be very -careful, or he will get into trouble on account of the small margin of -profit. - -To recur to the method first mentioned. It is well that suggestions be -made as to the course to be pursued in receiving bids on work, as -classified in that suggestion. In the first place, there should be -accurate plans and specifications made by an architect capable of doing -that kind of work. Everything should be fully represented to the owner -in both a positive and negative way; that is, not only as to what is to -go into his house, but as to what is not to go into it. As soon as the -architect or those in charge of the work begin to take bids, the owner -should be provided with a complete copy of the plans and specifications, -in order that he may be fully conversant with what is to be done. It was -said that everything should be represented to the owner in both a -positive and negative way. Not only should it be stated to him that the -first floor of the house is to be plastered, but, if such is the case, -that the cellar is not to be plastered. If the cellar floor is not to be -cemented, it should be stated definitely to him in that way before -beginning to take bids. If fly-screens are not included in the building -contract, it should be so stated. Everything should be fully -represented, and a record thereof placed before the owner, so that there -can be not the slightest opportunity for misunderstanding or -disagreement. Thus, if everything is presented to the owner, he will -know what he is to have and what he is not to have, and his business -will be done for him in a way satisfactory to all. When this is done, it -is time to begin taking bids. - -In doing this there should be no favoritism. The builder should be -allowed to take a copy of the plans and specifications with him to his -office or place of business, and keep them a day or more, in order to -take off his quantities and become thoroughly conversant with everything -connected with them. Then he can return the plans, and, while others are -doing the same thing, he can compile his figures. Generally it takes -about a day for each contractor to get through with a set of plans; that -is, if five bids are received, it generally takes five or six days, -assuming that only one set of plans is in use. No one should be asked to -figure on a building unless the owner is willing to award him the -contract, providing his bid is the lowest. Anything else is unfair. When -all the bids have been received in sealed envelopes, the architect and -owner may open them. After selecting the lowest, they may add to that -figure the cost of everything not included in that proposition,--the -furnace, mantels, gas fixtures, ornamental glass, and anything else that -has not been included in the bid. This may be readily done, if the -architect provide a schedule, similar to schedule "B," of everything -which may go into the house. - -In the matter of closing the contract, only general statements can be -made. Where an architect is employed, he will give proper directions; -but, as many houses are built without such assistance, it is proper to -make general statements which will assist in this work. There are forms -of building-contracts, or articles of agreement, which may be secured -from various regular sources. It is proper to fix the time of the -completion of the work, which will vary in different parts of the -country according to general customs. A house to cost from fifteen -hundred to four thousand dollars may be very easily finished, under -favorable circumstances, in ninety to a hundred days. Such houses can be -built in less time, but it is best to give the builder at least three -months. He will do better work in that time than in less. For the higher -figure named, or for those which approach it, it may be better to allow -even a little more rather than less time. As a price for liquidated -damages in event of delay in completion, the rental value of the -property is the usual sum specified. - -There are various plans pursued in the matter of payments. Where there -is an architect or superintendent, he usually issues orders on the owner -for payment of material and labor furnished by a contractor less ten or -fifteen per cent. Sometimes it is stated that two-fifths of the money -will be paid when the building is enclosed and under roof; one-fifth -additional when building is plastered, painted on exterior, all exterior -appurtenances finished, the floors laid, and the house ready for other -interior wood-work; and the remaining two-fifths when all work is -finished. At times this apportionment is correct, and at other times -not. However, it is a very good general rule. It is a good plan to add -the ten per cent discount to it when possible. Sometimes an indemnifying -bond is required of the contractor in order to secure the owner the -proper execution of the contract. Otherwise the ten or fifteen per cent -discount is relied upon to secure that end. - -The lien laws in the various States make it very important that the -owner, or his agent in the matter of building, should be very careful to -see that the contractor pays all his bills, or secures releases from -those who have furnished material and labor on account of the building -contract, before money is paid by owner. - -The law is different in various States, and renders the owner liable, -under varying conditions, for material and labor furnished to contractor -by others as employees or sub-contractor, even though payment has been -made by owner to general contractor. Where a bond is not required, it is -proper for the owner or his agent to exact releases in proper form from -those who have furnished material and labor to contractor. The following -form is in use by the writer:-- - - Work located - - The undersigned, in consideration of the personal credit extended - by to , Contractor, hereby consent that may pay to said contractor - any sum that may be now owing to, or may hereafter become due, said - contractor, on account of contract for the construction of the - above works, and we hereby waive all rights to Mechanics' Liens or - other claims which we have, or may have, against said property, or - owner, on account of labor or material furnished by us. - - INDIANAPOLIS, 1889. - -It is the custom to furnish the builder with a number of copies of the -above release before it is time for him to secure an order on the owner -for money. As the architect is in a position to know from whom material -or labor is secured, it is possible for him to know if the list of -releases is complete. If not complete, the party refusing to give a -release is required to make statement as to the amount of the -indebtedness for material and labor furnished on the contract. The -general contractor is charged with the amount represented as being due -until the matter is fully adjusted. As an additional safeguard, the -contractor is at times required to fill out and make affidavit to the -following:-- - - INDIANAPOLIS, ---- 1889. - - The undersigned, for the purpose of securing payment on account of - contract with ----, for the construction of a ---- house, known as - No. ---- on ---- Street, situated on Lot ----, Out-lot ----, ---- - Division to City of Indianapolis, Marion County, State of Indiana, - represents hereby that he has paid for all labor and material of - every kind and nature had and procured therefor, excepting, - however, that he is now owing the following sums to the respective - parties hereinafter named for labor and materials for said - building, and owes therefor no other amounts, to wit:-- - -In this connection it is not possible to consider all of the -ramifications of the lien law. It is important to understand, however, -that it is entirely possible for an owner to have to pay for part of or -all of his house twice, if he is not careful in matters of this kind. - - - - -HOW TO SECURE A HOME. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXVIII. - - MONTHLY PAYMENTS.--CALCULATIONS ON A LONG-TIME PLAN.--PURCHASE ON A - RENTAL BASIS.--HOW IT MAY BE WORKED OUT. - - -It is a pleasant thought that every one can own a home of his own. With -only a moderate salary, and little or nothing ahead, a thought of this -kind may appear more pleasant than real. It may be affirmed, however, -that, with few exceptions, any one who can pay rent may own his home. -This will require certain sacrifices and at first great economy, but in -the end the result justifies the means. There is no reason why any one -should pay rent. Building associations are instrumental in securing more -homes for people on a long-time plan than any other scheme. In the large -towns, however, houses are sold on various kinds of instalment plans. By -way of illustration, the writer calls to mind a five-room house, -pleasantly situated, which was built about three years ago. This house -is being paid for in instalments of $15 a month. An arrangement of this -kind is good for all concerned. It is an easy way for one to get a home. -It is a good use of money, from a business standpoint, for the one who -has the money to invest. A little demonstration will make this plain. -The lot on which the house was situated was valued at $400. The house, -with walks, well, cistern, and outbuildings, cost $900. Here is a total -investment of $1,300. The purchaser paid $300 in cash. There remained -$1,000 unpaid. The interest on $1,000 for a year at six per cent is $60; -but as the volume of interest is reduced as the payments are made, the -actual interest for the full period averages about one-half of $60, or -$30, per year. To make this point clear, I will state it in another way. -The principal is being reduced as the monthly payments are made. As the -payments advance, the amount of interest necessarily decreases, as there -is not so much principal on which to pay interest. As a matter of fact, -one pays six per cent interest on just one-half of $1,000 for the full -period, or, what amounts to the same thing, the average interest on the -full period is three per cent. Thus, one is paying an average interest -of $30 per year; and, as he pays $15 a month, this would be $180 a year -for principal and interest, $150 of which would apply to the principal. -Thus it is that in six years and eight months the one paying $15 a month -will own the house and lot. I know of other cases where less each month -is paid and a longer time is taken. It would take $10.83[1] per month to -pay for a house of this kind in ten years, with a cash payment of $300. - -It may be said that nobody but a philanthropist would sell property in -this way. In the case of which I speak, the philanthropist is the -manager of the property of a life-insurance company which owns quite a -large amount of unimproved real estate in a Western city, and had a -surplus capital on which it desired to realize. It is a good thing for -the company. By this means it is enabled to dispose of its real estate, -and to use its money profitably. - -This is not strictly architectural, but it may result in showing some -one how to get a home, or others how to make use of idle capital in a -safe and profitable way. It is better for one who has money to invest to -sell houses in this way than it is to rent them. He gets profit on the -sale, and interest on his money, which latter is all he expects under -other circumstances, and disposes of the houses before they need -repairs. This is the view which the capitalist takes of the situation. -By looking into it a little further, he may see that he will not be -troubled by insurance, a vacant house, or repairs. The cash payment is -sufficient to protect the expense of foreclosing the mortgage and the -rental of the house during the time of the redemption. In some instances -the property is leased on the payment of a small cash bonus, with the -stipulation that when one-third, one-fourth, or other agreed portion of -selling price is paid in, that a deed will be given; further payment -being secured by mortgage. - -Building associations are not common in all sections of the country. -Those who are ambitious to build, and are not provided with facilities -which a building association offers, may ask what to do. The answer is -short: form an association. This can be done in a small community. Two -hundred shares paid in, say, by fifty people, would represent a hundred -dollars a week. Any one who wishes to do this can provide himself with -text-books and other information on the subject, which are now published -in different parts of the country. Any bookseller with a good catalogue -can give the necessary information. - -It is sometimes assumed by those unfamiliar with building-association -methods, that they only provide means for building small, low-cost -houses. This is an error. It is not at all unusual that complete houses, -costing from three to five thousand dollars, are built by men of large -means, who secure their money from a building association. One has, say, -forty or fifty thousand dollars profitably occupied in a regular -business; he may not care to disturb this money except to buy a lot with -which to establish a basis of credit with the building association. The -price of the lot may vary from one-fourth to one-half the total -investment. One wishes to borrow three thousand dollars from an -association on the plan which is subsequently fully described. He would -have to take out fifteen shares on a payment of fifty cents a share a -week. This would represent seven dollars and a half weekly, or about -thirty dollars a month. On the plan where the interest and premium are -charged in addition to the regular weekly dues, a little over fifty -dollars a month would be required to keep up the building-association -charges. This would be less than house rent. These calculations are made -assuming that the premium is not more than ten cents and the interest -six per cent. - - - - -CHAPTER XXXIX. - - BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS.--WHY DIVIDENDS ARE LARGE AND INTEREST - LOW.--BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS AND SAVINGS BANKS.--ASSOCIATION - SECURITIES.--BUILDING-ASSOCIATION METHODS.--DIFFERENT - PLANS.--BORROWING FROM A BUILDING ASSOCIATION.--A - BUILDING-ASSOCIATION REPORT. - - -Building-association methods become more popular as they are better -understood. Savings banks are unnecessary in communities where building -associations are common. The savings bank will give place to the -building association, for the reason that the latter affords greater -security and more profit to the depositors at the same time that it -affords greater conveniences to the borrowers. It is often asked by -those not fully acquainted with building-association methods, "How is it -that the association pays such large dividends, and the borrower such a -small rate of interest? The profit is made by the loaning of money; and, -consequently, the borrower must pay a high price for his money, or the -association does not make large dividends." - -This appears to be a logical argument. However, it is not true that the -borrower pays a high price for his money. The dividends declared are -made from the borrowers, by the rapid compounding of interest and other -sources of profit. Money paid in as interest is immediately re-invested -as a loan, and thus pays interest the next week. The interest on this is -at once put to use, and so on. It is compounded. The premium paid for -money is another source of profit. This comes from the borrower, and -represents a part of the cost of the money to him; but, unless the -premium is excessive, the earnings on his stock counterbalance the -amount paid as premium, so that in the end a borrower does not pay in -excess of the regular rate for his money at the same time that the -stockholder is more largely benefited. - -A building association has only a tithe of the expenses of a bank. The -cost of doing business is very small. An association has a very great -advantage over a bank in its earning capacity in that it does not have -to carry a surplus. All of its money is invested at all times. -Frequently it is receiving interest upon money that is not a part of its -assets. This happens when an application for a loan has been accepted, a -building is under way, and the money not all paid out. - -The percentage of loss in a building association is necessarily smaller -than in the best-conducted bank. Its securities are all first mortgages -on productive real estate, and loans are made to members only, and under -the condition that the immediate repayment of the loan be commenced. The -security begins to improve at once, by the repayment of a part of the -principal each week. It is usual for each member of a family to become -interested in the immediate repayment of a loan. The payment of -building-association dues is constantly in mind; as they become due from -week to week, they cannot be overlooked. The fact that the debt is -growing less, and, as well, the incentive to avoid small fines in case -of failure to make payment, contribute to the value of the security. A -loan on an ordinary basis, secured from a savings bank, insurance or -trust company for a long period, is not thought of in this way. The -usual thought in such a case is to pay the debt in a large sum at a time -in the future. The time of the repayment of an association loan is -always present. The security afforded to building associations is much -better than to savings banks and loan companies, even where the margin -above the amount of loan is less because of this difference in plan of -repayment. Again, the margin of security from the first is always -sufficient to protect a mortgage and the payment of all foreclosure -costs and charges. Furthermore, the rentals in case of foreclosure are, -or should be, sufficient to pay all dues and other fixed charges. This -will prevent loss, and in the end pay for the property. - -Another element of safety in building associations is the small risk of -loss from the duplicity of the officers. This risk is unusually light, -for the reason that in a well-managed building association there is -little in sight to lose. The money is usually all invested. Any small -amount in the hands of the officers is there for only a short time. -There are demands in all well-managed building associations for all the -money in hand. While this is true, it is always required that the -officers who handle the association money give bond for a much larger -sum than it is possible for them ever to have in charge. This makes the -loss, if any, readily collectible. - -It may be well to illustrate building-association methods, and thus call -attention intelligently to the points of superiority which one plan may -have over another. - -The idea which first gave rise to associations is that of enabling -persons belonging to a class whose earnings are small, to place -themselves in a position where the process of gradual accumulation is, -in a certain sense, compulsory. The method of operation is simple enough -when it is understood. Say that a number of stockholders agree to form -an association with a thousand shares, each share to represent $200. -This would make a full capital stock of $200,000 when all paid in. The -various individuals forming the association subscribe for as many shares -as they feel competent to pay upon, it being agreed that for each share -of stock subscribed, fifty cents per week shall be paid until the -sum-total of the payments shall aggregate $200; at the end of which time -a division shall be made according to the original subscription and -subsequent payment. It is clear that if all are prompt in their -payments, the treasury will be ready for distribution at the end of four -hundred weeks. The period of four hundred weeks will, however, be -shortened if all the money paid in is at once invested at interest upon -safe securities, with the addition of interests compounded weekly, as is -the case with these associations. For instance, it may appear that at -the end of three hundred and twelve weeks, with a payment of fifty cents -a week, and the accrued earnings that are credited to the shares, they -are worth $200, the amount fixed for the value of the stock when it is -paid up. At such a time the depositing members withdraw their funds, and -those who are borrowers pay off their obligations to the association -with stock, and the mortgages are released. - -Money in building associations is generally sold to the highest bidder; -that is, those who want to borrow bid a premium for the money. For -instance, a sale of money is advertised. Bids are then received on the -money to be loaned, and it is given to the highest bidder after the -security has been approved. Suppose one wishes to borrow a thousand -dollars. If each paid-up share is to represent two hundred dollars, five -shares must be taken out to represent the payment of principal on a -thousand-dollar loan. It may appear that the premium bid was ten cents -on each share. This means that the borrower must pay ten cents premium -each week, on each share, during the course of the loan, or until the -principal is paid out. Thus he would pay fifty cents a week as -principal, and ten cents a week as premium, and the interest on two -hundred dollars at six per cent, which would be twenty-four cents a -week. Thus he would pay eighty-four cents a week on each share; or on -five shares, four dollars and twenty cents a week. This would pay out in -about five years, depending upon the average rate of premium, the cost -of doing business, and other conditions which may be readily understood. -When the principal paid in, together with the accrued earnings, -represents two hundred dollars, the obligation to the building -association is released. - -There are various plans of starting and arranging building and savings -associations, which differ one from another only in matters of detail. -The price of the share may be two, three, or four hundred dollars, or -any other sum. The amounts paid in a week vary from ten cents to any -larger sum. In the past, most associations have been started on the -series plan, which is defined as follows by Henry S. Rosenthal of -Cincinnati in his "Manual for Building Associations:"-- - - "In an association, organized on the terminating plan, all the - stock is issued as of one date. A terminating association is - organized on the presumption that all the stock will be subscribed - for at the open meetings. This, however, is seldom done. The - consequence is, that shares sold after the first meetings must be - sold at such prices as to make them equal in value to those already - issued. To do this a sum must be charged equal to the amount - already paid in in instalments by the subscribers to the original - shares. If the regular dues on shares should be one dollar per - week, a person subscribing for a share after the association has - been running ten weeks must pay ten dollars for the share. In like - manner, if the association has been running for a longer period, he - must pay an additional dollar for each additional week. Moreover, - if he does not subscribe until after the profits have been - declared, he must pay such an additional amount on his share as - will correspond to the earnings of the original shares up to that - time. The same rule holds through the entire existence of the - association, each year making it more difficult to enter. After an - association, organized on this plan, has run for a time, it is - impossible for many persons, who would gladly become members, to - raise a sufficient sum of money to pay up the back instalments, the - initiation fees, the accrued profits, and other incidental - expenses. In its practical workings, therefore, an association - organized on this plan is not well adapted to meet the conditions - of that particular class of persons who most need such an - organization, and are most likely to be benefited by it. - - "In a terminating association all the shares are, of course, at all - times of equal value. Whenever the total amounts of the dues paid - in and of accumulated profits equal the par value of all the - shares, the association terminates and its affairs must be wound - up. Each stockholder who has not borrowed his money in advance - receives the full value of his shares. To those who have secured - their money in advance, their mortgages, cancelled and receipted in - full, are returned. - - -"PERMANENT ASSOCIATION. - - "Building associations were established originally on the - terminating plan. It is obvious that working on this plan they - cannot, in some respects, reach their greatest degree of popularity - and usefulness. On this account there has been a gradual departure - from this plan. The first departure from the terminating plan - consisted in an arrangement for issuing the stock in series instead - of all from the same date. Associations were chartered for a - certain number of years, as before, and with a specified amount of - capital stock. But instead of selling all the stock as of the same - date, it was divided into series; one series being sold as of the - date of the beginning of the first year, the second series as of - the date of the beginning of the second year, and so on until all - the shares were sold. The issuing of a new series does not - necessarily occur annually, but at such periods as are made - necessary or desirable by the business of the association. The - serial issue may be monthly, quarterly, semi-annually, or - otherwise, as the directors may determine. By the time the last - series is issued and the stock is exhausted, the first one or two - or more series of shares, if the business of the association has - been prosperous, have usually reached their full value, and are - paid back and cancelled. Associations conducted on this plan - usually have the right to issue new stock to take the place of - that which is cancelled from time to time, and thus their - perpetuity is insured. A successful association working on this - plan can usually secure the issue of a new charter, and can thus - continue its existence. But there are manifest disadvantages and - risks under which an association operating on this plan must labor. - - "Another plan of operation has been inaugurated which has proved - very popular, and which is being generally adopted by the - associations in the different States. Associations are granted - perpetual charters, the amount of the capital stock being fixed at - a certain sum. They are allowed to begin operations as soon as a - certain amount of stock is subscribed. After the association is in - operation, new subscribers are allowed to enter at any time on an - equality with the original subscribers, the stock of each member - dating from the time of his entry. Thus the business of the - association runs along from year to year, until finally all of the - stock is subscribed. After a time the shares first issued begin to - reach their full value. As they thus mature, the owners draw out - their money,--if they have not borrowed it in advance,--and their - shares are cancelled, and their membership ceases. If they have - borrowed their money in advance, their bonds and mortgages are - returned to them receipted in full. If a member, whose stock has - thus matured, has not borrowed his money in advance, and does not - wish to draw it out, a certificate of paid-up stock is issued to - him, and he leaves his money in the association as a matter of - investment. An association operating on this plan may, after a - time, when its original stock has all been subscribed through - application to the incorporating authorities, secure the right to - increase its stock. If, in the course of time, this increased stock - becomes exhausted, another increase may be secured in a like - manner, and so on indefinitely." - -Herewith is given an extract from the yearly report of a successful -savings and loan association on the perpetual plan. It will illustrate -more fully the method and results of this method than could a less -formal description. It may be explained in this connection that in this -society the payments are uniform for depositing and borrowing members; -that is, instead of having the premium and interest added to the weekly -dues, the amount of premium and interest is charged against the weekly -payment of fifty cents. Ten cents is the limit of premium, the officers -and stockholders believing that to be as much as any one should pay. - - -OBJECT. - - THE PLYMOUTH SAVINGS AND LOAN ASSOCIATION, NO. 2, is organized with - two main objects in view:-- - - FIRST.--To furnish a convenient, safe, and profitable method of - investing the savings of working people. - - Members can come in and go out at will. - - Subscriptions can commence at any time without having to pay back - dues or wait for new series. - - Withdrawing members obtain their money without loss (fines - excepted), and are paid as promptly as the finances of the - Association will admit, without having to wait ninety days. In the - history of the Association there have been no delays. - - SECOND.--To furnish persons who wish to borrow for any purpose the - means for doing so at a reasonable rate of interest. In other - words, it is an association composed of borrowers and lenders, and - established for their mutual convenience. It gathers together the - savings of the people, which, scattered and in small sums, could - not be invested to advantage, and loans the money thus obtained on - first mortgage security, and in sums to suit, to those who wish to - build, to pay off mortgages, or for other purposes. - - All members of the Association are, therefore, divided into two - classes:-- - - _First._--Those who desire to use the society as a means of saving - or investing money. These are called _depositing members_. - - _Second._--Those who wish to make use of the organization as a - means of borrowing money. These are called _borrowing members_. - - -MANAGEMENT. - - THE PLYMOUTH SAVINGS AND LOAN ASSOCIATION is a strictly - co-operative or mutual organization. All the shareholders are _pro - rata_ owners of all the assets of the society. Every member is a - partner in the enterprise in proportion to the amount paid in by - him. He is entitled to his share of all the earnings of the - Association, and he must also stand his share of the losses, if - there be any. - - The By-laws contain the rules and regulations under which money is - received and loaned, or otherwise disposed of, and the business of - the society is carried on by a Board of Directors, elected annually - by the members. - - -SHARES AND SHAREHOLDERS. - - The amount of interest which each member has in the Association is - indicated by the number of his shares. - - Shares are $200 each, and no member can hold more than twenty-five - shares. The weekly payment required is fifty cents on each share of - stock. - - When a member joins the Association he indicates the amount of - weekly payment he desires to make by the number of shares for which - he subscribes. He may, however, if he wishes, pay more than his - shares call for, and such over-payments will receive dividends the - same as the regular weekly instalments. - - Each member is supposed to keep up his payments until what he has - paid in, together with the dividends declared thereon, shall amount - to the face value of his shares, at which time he must cease - payments, and either take his money out, or, if the society be - willing, allow it to remain and draw dividends. - - -DIVIDENDS. - - On the 1st of January and July of each year the net earnings of the - Association are divided _pro rata_ among all the members, and the - amount due each member is credited on his pass-book. - - Persons joining the association between January and July must - continue payments until the following January before the dividend - will be credited, and those joining between July and January must - likewise pay until the following July; and if the money be - withdrawn before that time, the dividend will be forfeited. - - The right to dividend also ceases from the date of the notice to - withdraw the stock. - - When dividends are credited on the pass-books they are just like - money paid, and are themselves entitled to draw dividends the same - as cash payments. Thus it will be seen that all dividends compound - semi-annually. - - The following table will show how long it takes to pay up a share - to face value by paying the regular dues only, supposing the - society to earn six per cent dividends per annum.[1] It also shows - the value of each share at the close of each year:-- - - First year Dues $26 00 - " Dividends 78 $26 78 - ------ ------ - Value at close of first year $26 78 - - Second year Dues $26 00 - " Dividends 2 41 28 41 - ------ ------ - Value at close of second year $55 19 - - Third year Dues $26 00 - " Dividends 4 53 30 53 - ------ ------ - Value at close of third year $85 72 - - Fourth year Dues $26 00 - " Dividends 6 10 32 10 - ------ ------- - Value at close of fourth year $117 82 - - Fifth year Dues $26 00 - " Dividends 8 34 34 34 - ------ ------- - Value at close of fifth year $152 16 - - Sixth year Dues $26 00 - " Dividends 10 41 36 41 - ------ ------- - Value at close of sixth year $188 60 - - Seventh year (16 weeks) Dues $8 00 - " Dividends 3 40 11 40 - ----- ------- - $200 00 - Time, 6 years and 16 weeks. - Total dues paid $164 00 - Total dividends 36 00 - ------- - $200 00 - - -[Footnote 1: The present rate of dividend is nine per cent, with an -added surplus.] - - -METHOD OF LOANING MONEY. - - The society loans money only to members. For each $200 share held - by a member he may borrow $200, secured by first mortgage on real - estate, interest on which is twenty-four cents per week. - - The right to precedence in borrowing is sold at auction at stated - times at the office of the Association (notice of which is given - beforehand) to the member who bids or agrees to pay the highest - weekly premium in addition to the twenty-four cents per week - interest. Ten cents per week is the average rate at which money was - sold during the year 1887, and is now selling. - - Members not desiring or not able to attend the sale of money in - person may have some one else bid for them, or they may leave a - written bid with the Secretary, on blanks prepared for that - purpose, who will make it for them at the sale. - - The society also loans to depositing members in sums equal to - ninety per cent of the dues paid in. Security is had by the member - pledging his stock for the payment of the loan and interest due (if - any) on notes prepared for that purpose. Interest on such loans has - for the present been placed at the rate of eight per cent per - annum. - - -PAYMENTS. - - The depositing and borrowing members alike pay fifty cents per week - per share. There are no additions for expenses, interest, premiums, - or fines. These are charged up at the close of each dividend - period, or at the closing up of an account. - - Each borrower is required to pay at least fifty cents per week on - each $200 of loan made to him, which is credited as follows:-- - - First the premium and interest are taken out, the interest being - twenty-four cents. When the premium bid is ten cents, both together - would amount to thirty-four cents. Then the balance, which in this - case would be sixteen cents, is credited as a payment on the share - on which the loan is taken. These payments are continued until the - amount credited on the shares, together with the dividends thereon, - will equal the amount loaned. For instance, suppose the loan to be - $200, and the premium bid to be ten cents per week,-- - - The payment each week would be 50 cents - The premium each week would be 10 cents - The interest each week would be 24 cents - --------- 34 cents - -------- - The credit on the share each week would be 16 cents - - These credits of sixteen cents per week begin to draw dividends on - the succeeding dividend period, which are compounded semi-annually, - and the weekly payments must be continued until the weekly credits - of sixteen cents and the dividends thereon amount to $200. - - Members are at liberty to pay every two weeks or monthly, and as - much beyond the required weekly payment as they may desire to. The - overpayments are credited like any regular payment and share in the - dividends. - - This enables borrowers to pay their loans off as fast as their - circumstances will admit. This method is very helpful, as the - interest and premium will be stopped on as many full shares as are - paid off, and the cost of a loan is materially reduced thereby. - - The minimum payment only is fixed. The borrower may at any time pay - the whole balance due on the loan and have it cancelled at once. - - It is always good policy for a borrower to pay more than the weekly - dues if he can, in order that in case of sickness, loss of work, or - other unforeseen hindrance, he may be paid ahead, and hence suspend - payment for a time without being fined or in danger of losing his - property. - - By the following table it is shown that with the premium at - twenty-four cents on each $200, and that the society is able to - earn six per cent per annum dividends (both of which are being done - now[2]), and the required weekly dues only being paid, a loan will - be paid up in fifteen years and six months. This time, as already - mentioned, can be shortened at the will and ability of the - borrower, and may be paid off at any time without any penalty - whatever. This is a great advantage, and the society can do this - only because of the great demand for loans, and the money does not - have to lie idle if a loan is paid off, but is immediately loaned - again. Here is a loan which you may take fifteen years to pay if - you wish, or you may pay it off at any time. - -TABLE. - -SHOWING COURSE OF LOAN OF $1,000. - - Premium 50 cents per week. - Interest $1.20 per week. - Six per cent dividends compounded semi-annually. - - FIRST YEAR: - - Loan $1,000 00 - Payments for year $130 00 - Interest and premium $88 40 - Less dividends 62 - ------ - Net cost of loan 87 78 - ------ - Principal reduced 42 22 - -[Footnote 2: Since this report was made the earnings have been nine per -cent, with an added surplus.] - - - SECOND YEAR: - - Balance due at end of first year $957 78 - Payments for year 130 00 - Premium and interest 88 40 - Less dividends 3 18 - ------ - Net cost of loan 85 22 - ------ - Principal reduced 44 78 - - THIRD YEAR: ------- - - Balance due at end of second year $913 00 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 5 91 - ------ - Net cost of loan 82 49 - ------ - Principal reduced 47 51 - - FOURTH YEAR: ------- - - Balance due at end of third year $865 49 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 8 79 - ------ - Net cost of loan 79 61 - ------ - Principal reduced 50 39 - - FIFTH YEAR: ------- - - Balance due at end of fourth year $815 10 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 11 88 - ------ - Net cost of loan 76 52 - ------ - Principal reduced 53 48 - - SIXTH YEAR: ------- - - Balance due at end of fifth year $761 62 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 15 12 - ------ - Net cost of loan 73 28 - ------ - Principal reduced 56 72 - - SEVENTH YEAR: - - Balance due at end of sixth year $704 90 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 18 60 - ------ - Net cost of loan 69 80 - ----- - Principal reduced 60 20 - - EIGHTH YEAR: ------- - - Balance due at end of seventh year $644 70 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 22 26 - ------ - Net cost of loan 66 14 - ------ - Principal reduced 63 86 - - NINTH YEAR: ------ - - Balance due at end of eighth year $580 84 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 26 13 - ------ - Net cost of loan 62 27 - ------ - Principal reduced 67 73 - - TENTH YEAR: ------ - - Balance due at end of ninth year $513 11 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 30 27 - ------ - Net cost of loan 58 13 - ------ - Principal reduced 71 87 - - ELEVENTH YEAR: ------- - - Balance due at end of tenth year $441 24 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 34 65 - ------ - Net cost of loan 53 75 - ------ - Principal reduced 76 25 - - TWELFTH YEAR: ------ - - Balance due at end of eleventh year $364 99 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 39 30 - ------ - Net cost of loan 49 10 - ------ - Principal reduced 80 90 - - THIRTEENTH YEAR: - - Balance due at end of twelfth year $284 09 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 44 22 - ------ - Net cost of loan 44 18 - ------ - Principal reduced 85 82 - - FOURTEENTH YEAR: ------ - - Balance due at end of thirteenth year $198 27 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 49 41 - ------ - Net cost of loan 38 99 - ------ - Principal reduced 91 01 - - FIFTEENTH YEAR: ------ - - Balance due at end of fourteenth year $107 26 - Payments for year 130 00 - Interest and premium 88 40 - Less dividends 54 99 - ------ - Net cost of loan 33 41 - ------ - Principal reduced 96 59 - - SIX WEEKS: ------- - - Balance due at end of fifteenth year $10 67 - Payments for six weeks 15 00 - Interest and premium 10 20 - Less dividends 5 87 - ------ - Net cost of loan 4 33 - ------ - Principal reduced 10 67 - ------ - Time, fifteen years and six weeks. - Total amount of payments $1,965 00 - Total interest and premium 1,336 20 - Total dividends 371 20 - Net cost of loan 965 00 - - With the reasonable prospect in view that the Association will be - able to pay larger dividends at some future time, it will be easy - to understand that the cost and the time of payment of a loan will - thereby be correspondingly reduced. - - -MORTGAGES. - - All loans must be secured by first mortgage on real estate in - Marion County, Ind. An appraising committee, consisting of three - members of the Association, appraise the value of all real estate - offered as security for loans and report to the board. No loan can - be made until the security has been approved by the Board of - Directors. - - This Association is now paying four per cent semi-annual dividends, - and adding largely to its surplus. - -A new feature in building-association work has recently been put into -practice. The association will buy for cash a house and lot, or buy a -lot and build a house thereon, and sell at a fair price to the member -whose application is accepted. Where the house and lot are bought at a -cash price, it is usual to charge a ten per cent bonus when selling it -on time to a member. The purchaser then completes the transaction by -securing the purchase money to the association, the same as in case of a -loan on any other property, except that instead of a deed from the -association he will receive a lease, with an agreement to sell and -convey to him the premises as soon as one-third of the purchase money -shall have been paid in regular dues on his stock. His stock will be -assigned as collateral security, and the payments will be credited as -rent until the deed is made. Then the purchaser will execute his -mortgage for the unpaid balance due on the property on the terms of his -original bid for the money. It is usual to require a cash payment equal -to the amount of the bonus; that is, ten per cent of the purchase price. -This is a valuable feature in building-association methods. It adds to -the profits of the association. This plan is adaptable to private -enterprise, and is liberal in its terms to the purchaser. - -In most associations organized on the perpetual plan, as previously -described, the demand for funds is greater than can be supplied from -depositing members. This has given rise to the "paid-up stock" feature -of building associations. Under this plan one may invest money in any -sum according to the terms of the charter and secure from the -association a certificate of paid-up stock which participates in the -regular dividends of the company. In this way, funds in larger amounts -may be secured than come from the ordinary payments by regular weekly -dues. It is not unusual for individuals to purchase paid-up stock to the -amount of several thousand dollars. This is a great help to an -association which is short of funds, as it serves to increase its -membership by addition of borrowers. There is no better place to invest -trust funds than in the paid-up stock of well-managed building -associations. Primarily, for the reason that each stockholder is pledged -in the amount of his stock to pay principal and six per cent interest on -all withdrawals; hence, the funds may be withdrawn at any time, and six -per cent interest thereon demanded. Furthermore, building-association -stock is not taxable in most States. - -Individual and moneyed corporations are coming to consider the matter of -loans, and means leading to their repayment, on the building-association -plan. This will be brought about largely by the low price of money -throughout the country at this time. Savings banks, mortgage companies, -and life-insurance organizations are finding it difficult to loan their -funds at a price that will pay their fixed obligations; hence, they are -seeking means which will lead to a more profitable investment of their -funds. The building-association plan of loaning money is one solution of -the problem. The low price of money is one of the elements which within -the next few years will enable nearly every one who so desires to secure -a home through the building association, or some plan which has its -outgrowth therefrom. - - - - -CHAPTER XL. - - PURCHASE OF A LOT.--THE BEST THE CHEAPEST.--A GOOD LOT AS A BASIS - OF SECURITY.--THE BASIS OF VALUE IS THE RENTAL. - - -There are many things to consider in connection with the building of a -house other than those which are constructive. One may lay aside that -which has to do with appearances, convenience, stability, and all that -is architectural, and yet have food for thought in connection with the -making of a home. For instance, the lot. No one can afford to build on -one that is absolutely cheap, or one that is cheap because it is not -well located or favorably thought of by the large number of people. A -lot that is absolutely cheap is not often worth even what is paid for -it. One of small means can least of all afford to put his money in a -questionable piece of property. A lot may be relatively cheap, and be a -good investment. For instance, there is a street lined with comfortable -houses. On this street live people of more or less wealth and -unquestioned ambition. Three or four squares beyond the last house of -this street the lots may be relatively cheap. The sum asked for them is -not great, for the reason that few care to go out so far. Still, by -adopting a little of the pioneer spirit, one can make a purchase of -these lots and be reasonably certain of being rewarded for his -foresight. It is much better to buy such a lot, and live for a year or -two without immediate neighbors, than to buy one which is absolutely -cheap because the surroundings are positively unfavorable. - -A man of small means least of all can afford to buy a lot that cannot -readily be sold for all it cost. We often hear people say, in regard to -lots that are surrounded unfavorably, "What is the difference? It suits -us; we can be as happy and comfortable there as any place. If we like -it, why should any one else complain?" No one else will complain. It may -occur that the owner of this absolutely cheap property may wish to sell. -He may become embarrassed in his business, or one of many things may -happen to cripple him financially. If he can sell at all, it is at a -sacrifice. If a mortgage is foreclosed, there is no reasonable chance of -redemption. If the lot is well located, and he becomes financially -embarrassed, he can sell for full value and thus relieve himself. If -there is danger of foreclosure, a sale can be readily effected, and thus -all danger of loss be averted. The idea in buying a lot is to get one -which can be readily sold. This is an important matter. - -In carrying out this principle, one of moderate means will often buy a -lot of higher cost than is apparently justifiable. However, this may be -the best thing for him to do. It may be good business. If he wishes to -borrow money with which to build, he has a better basis for credit. If -he puts his house on a good lot, there is opportunity of selling it -because of its favorable location, and thus the danger of embarrassment -is averted. One can afford to borrow money to build on a good lot, for -the reason that there is little danger of losing either the lot or the -money. The house and the lot, if it rates well in the public mind, can -be easily sold. The lot should not be selected or the house built, if -its sale is not entirely possible. There are towns as well as localities -in which no one of moderate means can afford to buy or build. Yet such -locations are often selected because they are cheap, and living is -cheap. The fact of this cheapness is against it. The property is cheap -because it is worth little or nothing. It is cheap because no one can -get out what he puts into it. This may apply to a lot in a particular -town, a particular part of a town, or to property in general in a county -or a State. Thus it is that no one of moderate means can afford to buy -absolutely cheap property. - -A young man once went to an architect to advise with him in regard to -the selection of a lot. He said,-- - -"There are two lots on a certain street that I can get for $1,200 each. -That is a little more than I want to pay, as even then I would have to -borrow more money than I wish in order to build my house. One of the -best lots I know anything about is on another street, but I can hardly -think of that, for they ask $1,500 for it." - -"I know the lot," said the architect, "and the $1,500 lot is the one to -buy. The $1,200 lots are of questionable value. The surrounding -conditions are such that their value is not liable to increase. The -$1,500 lot is in the swim; two squares below, lots cannot be bought for -$2,400; in fact, they are not in the market. They are owned by people -who desire to hold them. In two years you will be reasonably certain to -realize at least twice the difference between the values of the $1,500 -and the $1,200 lots. In one case, the value of the lot is not liable to -increase; it may decrease. In the other instance, there is reasonable -certainty of a large increase within a short time. It is on the edge of -high values." - -"But I shall have to borrow so much money with which to build, if I take -the high-priced lot." - -"What of it? Say your house is going to cost you $3,000. You say you -have $2,800 in cash. In one instance you would have to borrow $1,400, -and in the other $1,700. You are running much less risk in borrowing -$1,700 than you are in borrowing $1,400. If you had to sell, there is a -reasonable certainty that you could always make a profit on your $4,500 -investment, and a very questionable probability as to the $4,200 -investment." - -There are those who do some very remarkable things for the sake of -keeping out of debt, which, in the end, develops into more loss than -would be possible in the case of debt. For instance, one will buy a lot -for $1,500, and put a $1,500 house on it. In time the value of the lot -increases; at the same time the value of the house decreases. The lot in -itself would be worth more if the house were off it. It is a cheap house -on a good lot. Thus it is that such property is often sold and the -improvements counted as nothing. Again, exactly the other thing may -happen. An expensive house may be built on a cheap lot. When finished -the house is worth much less than it cost because it is not well -located. One cannot expect to get full value for the lot without moving -the house, and altogether the situation is disagreeable. How much better -it would be, from a business standpoint, not to build at all, use the -money some other way, or borrow enough money to have the house and lot -properly located. In one case there is positive loss; in the other, a -reasonable certainty of profit. - -Another thing for a man of moderate means to bear in mind in building a -house is, that the investments as to the house and lot should be such -that in case of rental the return derived would pay a fair interest on -the investment, and leave a sufficient margin for taxes and repairs. As -long as this condition exists, there need be no fear of loss through -foreclosure. The sale of the property may become necessary through -embarrassment in business, loss of situation, or illness; but in such a -case the property can either be sold without loss, or it can be rented -at a figure that will pay all fixed charges, which fact in itself -establishes a value above its cost price. If these principles are all -carried out, there is little chance of loss. - - - - -INDEX. - - -"A" door, 226. -Air supply to heating apparatus, 75-79. -American architecture, 26-28. -American architectural development, 104-105. -Architects' estimates, 278-281. -Architect, the, and the housewife, 9-27. -Architectural design, 101-105. -Areas, 206. -Ash-pits, 206. -Attic, 62. -Attic bedrooms, 63, 138. -Automatic heat regulators, 81. - -Back plastering, 237. -Base, 228, 229. -Basement, 56. -Bath-tub, 73, 74, 230, 255-258. -Bath-tub wood-work, 230, 231. -Bedrooms, 60-63. -Bedrooms in attic, 63. -Bedroom closets, 61. -Bedroom, first floor, 164. -Bedrooms, grates in, 62. -Bedroom for servants, 62. -Bond in brick-work, 201, 202. -Brick, hollow walls of, 203. -Brick of wood, 204. -Brick joints, 199. -Brick pavement, 212. -Brick piers, 200. -Brick, selection of color, 202. -Brick veneer, 203. -Brick-wall foundations, 200-204. -Brick-work, 199-206, 209-212. -Brick-work bond, 201, 202. -Broom closets, 61. -Broom-rack, 232. -"B" schedule, 268. -Building associations and savings banks, 296, 297. -Building association, a new feature in, 310. -Building association, object, 302. -Building associations, permanent plan, 300, 301. -Building-association profits, 295. -Building-association report, 302-310. -Building associations, safety of, 296, 297. -Building association, terminating plan, 299, 300. -Building-association methods, 293-311. -Building by the day, 281. -Building contract, 284-287. -Building material, cost of, 273. -Business points in building, 275-287. - -Capacity of cistern, 210. -Carpenter work, 213-235. -Casings outside, 218. -Cathedral glass, 245. -Cedar closet, 232. -Cellar, 51-53, 133. -Cellar brick-work, 203, 204. -Cellar closet, 52, 53. -Cellar doors, 226, 227. -Cellar laundry, 54-58. -Cellar plan, 142. -Cellar sink, 254. -Cellar-sink wood-work, 230. -Cellar-way, outside, 206. -Cement pavement, 212. -Chamber decoration, 99. -Chimneys, 204-206. -Chimney-breasts, 205, 206. -Chimney tops, 204. -China-closet fittings, 46. -China-room, 44-46, 232. -Cistern, 210, 211. -Cistern filter, 211. -Cistern-water supply, 71. -Clock shelf, 232. -Closets, bedroom, 61, 138. -Closets, broom, 61. -Closet fittings, 231, 232. -Closet of cedar, 232. -Coal-bins in cellar, 51, 52. -Colored bricks, 202, 203. -Colored plastering, 237. -Color of mortar, 202. -Combination stairs, 59, 60, 137-141. -Combination pantry, 45, 132. -Competition in building, 281-283. -Conservatory, 99. -Contracting methods, 277-287. -Copper, 240, 241. -Cost of appurtenances, 271, 272. -Cost of building material, 273, 274. -Cost of one-story houses, 163. -Cost schedules, 264, 267-269. -Cost of a house, 264-274. -Cut stone work, 208, 209. - -Damp course, 200. -"D" door, 227. -Deck roof, 216. -Depth of foundation, 200. -Dining-room, 37, 38, 96-99. -Dish-warming, arrangement for, 84. -Dish-washing, 11, 42. -Doors and frames, 225-227. -Dough-board, 46, 47. -Double joists, 215. -Down spouts, 240. -Draining, 198, 199. -Drain board, 43, 230. -Drain connections, 261. -Drain from refrigerator, 241. -Drain outside, 71. -Drain ventilation, 71. -Dressed shingles, 218. -Drop siding, 217. -Dry-box, 48, 232. - -"E" door, 227. -Eastlake, Charles, 104. -Estimates of architects, 278-281. -Evaporation in traps, 67-68. -Evolution of a house-plan, 109-117. -Excavating, 198. -Excavating for plumber, 247, 248. - -Fifty convenient houses, plans of, 107. -Fig. "A," frontispiece. Fig. "B," 106. -Fig. 2, 41. -Fig. 3, 43. -Fig. 4, 45. -Fig. 5, 46. -Fig. 6, 67. -Fig. 7, 68. -Fig. 8, 116. -Fig. 9, 116. -Fig. 10, photographic view (page 116). -Fig. 11, 117. -Fig. 12, 124. -Fig. 13, 133. -Fig. 14, 147. -Fig, 15, 149. -Fig. 16, 151. -Fig. 17, photographic view (page 152). -Fig. 18, 154. -Fig. 19, 154. -Fig. 20, 160. -Fig. 21, 168. -Fig. 22, 169. -Fig. 23, 181. -Fig. 24, photographic view (page 182). -Fig. 25, 186. -Fig. 26, photographic view (page 190). -Fig. 27, 191. -Fig. 28, 191. -Fig. 29, 193. -Fig. 30, 199. -Fig. 31, 205. -Fig. 32, 206. -Fig. 33, 215. -Fig. 34, 217. -Fig. 35, 226. -Fig. 36, 227. -Fig. 37, 227. -Fig. 38, 262. -Filters for cisterns, 211. -Finish of floor, 244. -Finishing in oil, 243, 244. -Fireplaces in bedrooms, 62. -Fixtures in plumbing enumerated, 66. -Flashings, 239. -Flat roofs, 240. -Floors, 222, 223. -Floor of kitchen, 49. -Floor finish, 244. -Flour-bin, 47, 233, 234. -Flues, 203. -Fly screens, 228. -Foundation depth, 200. -Foundations, stone, 207, 208. -Force-pump, 249. -Framing, 213-219. -Framing lumber, sizes of, 213, 214. -Fresco tinting, 92. -Freezing of plumbing, 70, 71. -Fuel in cellar, 51, 52. -Furnace, defined, 76. -Furnace and hot-water combination, 83, 84. -Furnace-room in cellar, 52. - -Galvanized iron, 241. -Gas-piping, 237, 238. -German siding, 217. -Glazing, 244, 245. -Grates in bedrooms, 62. -Grease sink, 72, 73, 263. -Gutters, 239. - -Hall, 33-35. -Hall, reception, 35, 36. -Hardware, 245, 246. -Hard-wood floors, 223. -Heating apparatus, how to get a good, 83, 85. -Heating and ventilation, 75-85. -Heating by hot water, 80, 83. -Heating by steam, 80. -Heating by stoves, 80. -Heating, ideal conditions, 76. -Heating plants, cost of, 81, 82, 83. -Heat regulators, automatic, 81. -Height of stories, 214. -Hip coping, 240. -Hip finish, 217. -Hollow walls of brick, 203. -Hot-air flues in brick walls, 203. -Hot-air pipes of tin, 241. -Hot-water boiler, 71. -Hot water and furnace combination, 83, 84. -Hot-water heating, 80. -Hot-water plumbing, 70. -Hot-water system, 252. -House decoration, 86-100. -House drain, 71. -House ventilation, 75, 79. -Housekeeper, the, and the architect, 11-15, 26-28. -Housekeeping operations, 16-20. -How to secure a home, 289-316. -Humidity of air, 77, 81. -Hydrant, 249. - -Inside casings, 228. -Inside shutters, 229, 230. -Inside finish, table of, 224. -Inside wood-work, 222-235. - -Joints, rodded, 199. -Joists, 214, 215. -Journey, a, through the house, 29-105. - -Kitchens, 39-50. -Kitchen fittings, 42, 43. -Kitchen floor, 49. -Kitchen plans, 41, 45. -Kitchen pantry, 45-48. -Kitchen plastering, 50. -Kitchen safe, 48. -Kitchen sink, 43, 253, 254. -Kitchen tables, 43, 230. -Kitchen utensils, 48. -Kitchen ventilation, 49. -Kitchen wainscoting, 49. - -Landings for stairs, 60. -Lattice porch, 220. -Laundry, 54-58. -Laundry fittings, 260, 261. -Laundry, low-cost, 55-58. -Laundry stove, 56. -Laundry tubs, 57. -Library, 95, 96. -Lien laws, 285, 286. -Lighting bedrooms, 61, 62. -Lintels in brick-work, 204. -Locating the house, 197. -Lot, purchase of, 312, 316. -Low-cost laundry, 55-58. -Lumber for framing, 213. - -Mantel costs, 271. -Mason work, 199-209. -Medicine-chest, 232. -Modern architects and the housekeeper, 26-28. -Modern conveniences, 21-25. -Moisture in heated air, 77-81. -Monthly payments, 291-293. -Mortar, color of, 202. -Mortgages, 310, 311. -Motor, 251. - -Natural-gas piping, 238. -Nickel fittings, 263. - -Oil finish, 243, 244. -Old colonial houses, 26, 27. -One-story houses, 157-163. -Ornamental brick, 203. -Outside cellar-way, 206. -Outside finish, 217-221. -Outside shutters, 219, 220. -Outside steps, 220, 221. - -Painting, 242, 243. -Paint, ready mixed, 242. -Painting of shingles, 216. -Pantry boxes, 234. -Pantry, combination, 45, 132. -Pantry fittings, 46. -Pantry shelves, 47. -Pantry specification, 233. -Pantry utensils, 48. -Parlor, 35-37, 93-95. -Pavement of brick, 212. -Pavement of cement, 212. -Permanent plan, building associations, 300, 301. -Picture mouldings, 231. -Piers of brick, 200. -Pipe boards, 230. -Pipe duct, 70, 230. -Plastering, 236. -Plastering, back, 237. -Plastering, gray, 236. -Plastering in kitchen, 50. -Plate-glass, 245. -Plans of fifty convenient houses, 107. -Plan No. 1, cost $1,700, 110. -Plan No. 2, cost $1,550, 111. -Plan No. 3, cost $1,550, 112. -Plan No. 4, cost $1,800, 113. -Plan No. 5, cost $1,900, 114. -Plan No. 6, cost $2,600, 115. -Plan No. 7, cost $2,900, 121. -Plan No. 8, cost $2,200, 129. -Plan No. 9, cost $2,500, 132. -Plan No. 10, cost $2,600, 136. -Plan No. 11, cost $2,000, 141, 142. -Plan No. 12, cost $2,600, 144. -Plan No. 13, cost $1,600, 146. -Plan No. 14, cost $1,500, 148. -Plan No. 15, cost $2,550, 150. -Plan No. 16, cost $2,800, 153. -Plan No. 17, cost $2,200, 154. -Plan No. 18, cost $1,600, 155. -Plan No. 19, cost $1,400, 158. -Plan No. 20, cost $1,200, 158. -Plan No. 21, cost $1,700, 161. -Plan No. 22, cost $800, 161. -Plan No. 23, cost $1,600, 162. -Plan No. 24, cost $1,100, 162. -Plan No. 25, cost $1,400, 163. -Plan No. 26, cost $2,000, 163. -Plan No. 27, cost $3,000, 165. -Plan No. 28, cost $2,800, 165. -Plan No. 29, cost $2,600, 166. -Plan No. 30, cost $3,000, 167. -Plan No. 31, cost $2,400, 169. -Plan No. 32, cost $4,000, 172. -Plan No. 33, cost $2,800, 173. -Plan No. 34, cost $2,500, 174. -Plan No. 35, cost $2,250, 175. -Plan No. 36, cost $2,000, 175. -Plan No. 37, cost $2,100, 176. -Plan No. 38, cost $2,000, 177. -Plan No. 39, cost $3,500, 178. -Plan No. 40, cost $3,100, 179. -Plan No. 41, cost $3,400, 179. -Plan No. 42, cost $2,800, 180. -Plan No. 43, cost $2,200, 183. -Plan No. 44, cost $5,000, 184. -Plan No. 45, cost $2,100, 184. -Plan No. 46, cost $3,400, 185. -Plan No. 47, cost $10,000, 187. -Plan No. 48, cost $3,400, 189. -Plan No. 49, cost $3,400, 190. -Plan No. 50, cost $10,000, 192. -Plumbing, 64-74. -Plumbing costs, 268-270. -Plumbing fixtures, 65. -Plumbing, practical, 247-263. -Porcelain water-closets, 69. -Porches, 31, 220. -Practical house-building, 195-274. -Preface, 3, 4. -Prevention of freezing in plumbing, 70, 71. -Privy vault, 209, 210. -Purchase of a lot, 312-316. -Purchase on a rental basis, 291-293. - -Radiation, direct, 80, 81. -Radiation, indirect, 80, 81. -Ready mixed paint, 242. -Rear stairway, 60. -Reception-hall, 35, 36. -Reception-hall decoration, 88, 89. -Reception-hall mantel, 89. -Refrigerator, 47. -Refrigerator drain, 48, 241, -Ridge coping, 240. -Ridge finish, 216, 217. -Rodded joints, 199. -Roof, 216, 217. - -Safety in plumbing, 64. -Safes, 258. -Sash weights, 219. -Savings banks and building associations, 296, 297. -Schedule "B," 268. -Sealed proposals, 284. -Second floor, the, 59-63. -Servant's bedroom, 62. -Service pipes, 249. -Sewer and vault connection, 65. -Sewer connection, 72, 261, 262. -Sewer gas, 66, 67, 72. -Sheet glass, 245. -Shower-bath, 257. -Shingles, 216, 217, 218. -Shingles, painting of, 216. -Shingles, stained, 218. -Shingle walls, 217. -Shutters, outside, 219, 220. -Shutters, inside, 229, 230. -Siding, drop, 217. -Siding, German, 217. -Side-hall plans, 164-166. -Sink in cellar, 254. -Sink in kitchen, 43, 230, 254. -Sitting-room, 35, 36, 91. -Sizes for framing lumber, 213, 214. -Sliding doors, 225. -Soap-box, 48, 49, 232. -Soft-water supply, 250. -Soil pipe, 66, 67, 253. -Splash board, 230, 231. -Splash board in bath-room, 231. -Spouts, 240. -Staining, exterior, 243. -Staining, interior, 243. -Stained shingles, 218. -Stairs, 234, 235. -Stairs, combination, 59, 60. -Stairways, 59, 60. -Stairway, combination, 137, 140, 141. -Stairway, rear, 60. -Steam heating, 80. -Stone foundations, 207, 208. -Stone sills, 208. -Stone steps, 208, 209. -Stop beads, 227. -Stop cocks, 249. -Storm water connections, 262. -Stories, height of, 214. -"S" trap, 66, 67, 263. -Street washer, 249. -Stove heating, 80. -Stud walls, 215, 216. - -Tables in kitchen, 230. -Table of inside finish, 224. -Tank wood-work, 231. -Terminating plan in building associations, 299, 300. -Terra cotta, 209. -Tin hot-air pipes, 241. -Tin-work, 239-241. -Transoms, 226. -Traps, 66, 67, 263. -Traps fail to act, 76. -Trap screws, 263. -Trimmer arch, 205, 206. -Trimmers, 214. - -Valleys, 239. -Vault and sewer connection, 65. -Veneered doors, 225, 226. -Veneer of brick, 203. -Ventilation and heating, 75-85. -Ventilation, drain, 71. -Ventilation, house, 75, 79. -Ventilation of kitchen, 49. -Vestibule, 31-33. -Vestibule decoration, 87, 88. - -Wainscoting, 229. -Wainscoting in kitchen, 49. -Walls of shingles, 217. -Wash-stand, 72, 259, 260. -Wash-stand wood-work, 231. -Waste pipe, 66, 67. -Water-closets, 68, 69, 70, 259. -Water-closets, porcelain, 69. -Water-closet, washout, 68, 69. -Water-closet wood-work, 231. -Water distribution, 248. -Water for builder, 197. -Water for laundry, 56, 57. -Water motor, 251. -Water tank in attic, 71. -Water seal, 67, 68. -Windows, 218, 219. -Wooden brick, 204. -Wood carving, 90. -Wood-work for bath-room, 231. -Wood for inside finish, 225. -Wood-work for plumber, 230, 231. -Wood-work for water-closet, 231. - - - * * * * * - - -"_THIS BEAUTIFUL BOOK._" - -_--Standard Union._ - -BEAUTIFUL HOUSES. - -BY LOUIS H. GIBSON, ARCHITECT. - -AUTHOR OF "CONVENIENT HOUSES." - -WITH OVER 250 ILLUSTRATIONS. 8VO. CLOTH. $3.00. - - Since the publication of his "Convenient Houses" Mr. Gibson has - been abroad, where he made a careful study of the national - architecture of many countries. Mr. Gibson is remarkable for the - skill with which he manages to utilize ordinary waste spaces, to - place every possible convenience in the housekeeper's hands; in - short, to apply common-sense in an uncommon manner. No one - interested in building a new house, or altering over an old one, - could fail to obtain valuable hints from his books. The volume is - sumptuously illustrated, and will be a delight to all connoisseurs, - both of architecture and of book-making. - -Contents of the Book. - - HOUSE-BUILDING AN ART. Ugly houses, uneducated architects, cost - never measures the artistic, development of art in building, the - primitive house, first principles, the Greek temple and the Indian - hut, the old Roman and the Old Colonial, Romanesque architecture, - Gothic architecture, decline of the Gothic, the Renaissance, modern - architecture of Europe, characteristics of modern American - architecture, etc. - - THE WORLD'S HOMES. French domestic architecture, twelfth century - building, floor plans of domestic structures, picturesque stair - towers, half-timber architecture of the twelfth century, our use of - French examples, Breton customs, furniture, French chateaux, - English domestic architecture, domestic buildings of the sixteenth - and seventeenth centuries, picturesque details, from the Gothic to - the Renaissance, modern architecture of Germany, Swiss - architecture, Old Colonial architecture, a classic development, - characteristic New England architecture, luxurious character of the - Old Colonial in the South, etc. - - SOME HOUSE PLANS. Relation of the exterior to the location, the - dormers, the inside finish, mantels, a centre-hall plan, frame - building, a little room for cloaks and wraps, decorative forms, - interior photographs, external details, Greek mouldings, a wide - central hall open at each end, large rooms, a picturesque stairway, - color schemes in decoration, description of floor plan, a fine - location, a river front, picturesque stair-hall, a smoking-room - under the balcony, etc. - - MATERIALS AND DETAILS. Shingle-houses, the proper surroundings, - the stains of time, artificial stain, examples, slate walls, - fireplaces and mantels, character in mantels, tile facings, onyx - and brick, doors, the defensive, hospitality, material, foreign - examples, domestic doors, stairs, foreign examples, broad landings, - Old Colonial stairways, iron railings, furniture, architects' - designs, sideboards, bookcases, seats, lounges, screens, grilles, - walls and ceilings, etc. - - THE ARCHITECT. The architect and the housewife, business and the - arts, costs, proper understanding of the client's wishes, plenty of - time to make plans. - - -Press Notices. - - -New York Sun. - -"A handsome book, copiously illustrated, giving foreign examples in -domestic architecture, a collection of American house plans, and -including a consideration of materials and details for the benefit of -the artistic house-builder." - - -Chicago Evening Post. - -"A most timely publication, and will find admirers among amateur -builders as well as trained architects." - - -Boston Advertiser. - -"Mr. Gibson's book is something more than an enunciation of theories. -Under the headings 'Some House Plans' and 'Materials and Details,' there -is a practical working out of the architect's general idea. This part of -the work is most valuably suggestive, and the intending house builder -will find it greatly to his interest to consult Mr. Gibson's books. The -present volume is one in which marked utility is combined with great -beauty." - - -Detroit Free Press. - -"It would hardly seem possible that a work on house-building could be -such pleasant reading as is this handsome volume." - - -Congregationalist. - -"His former book met a real need. His present work is full of wise and -practical suggestions as to securing beauty without sacrificing -convenience or running into extravagance. All about to build or -reconstruct a house will find it helpful." - - -Indianapolis News. - -"This work is a credit to Mr. Gibson and to his profession. It is a -reflection of deep knowledge of architecture, and of experience in the -practice of the profession. The illustrations are abundant and -excellent, and the whole is a beautiful piece of book-making. An -appropriate cover is designed by David Gibson." - - -Literary World. - -"The author is an architect of knowledge, ideas, and tastes.... To any -family projecting a home of their own this volume will bring a multitude -of helps." - - -Bookseller, Newsdealer and Stationer. - -"One of the handsomest and at the same time most practical books ever -published by the Crowells." - - -_For Sale by all Booksellers, or sent postpaid by the Publishers on -receipt of price._ - -T. Y. CROWELL & CO., New York and Boston. - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Obvious punctuation errors have been corrected and missing punctuation -has been added. - -Archaic words and misspelled words, as well as inconsistent hyphenation, -have been retained with the exception of those listed below. - -Page 60: "the" added for continuity (The rear stairway should be -connected with the front part of the house). - -Page 89: "of" added for continuity (This arrangement frequently admits -of the placing of a seat along one side of the outer part of the lower -landing.) - -Page 292: No footnote is included at the bottom of the page for the -reference contained in the text. - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CONVENIENT HOUSES*** - - -******* This file should be named 42469.txt or 42469.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/2/4/6/42469 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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