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diff --git a/42749-h/42749-h.htm b/42749-h/42749-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4dae97d --- /dev/null +++ b/42749-h/42749-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,13143 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" /> +<title>Some Heroes of Travel, by W. H. Davenport Adams</title> + <style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + P.gutsumm { margin-left: 5%;} + P.poetry {margin-left: 3%; } + .GutSmall { font-size: 0.7em; } + H1, H2 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + } + H3, H4, H5 { + text-align: center; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + table { border-collapse: collapse; } +table {margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto;} + td { vertical-align: top; border: 1px solid black;} + td p { margin: 0.2em; } + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .pagenum {position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: small; + text-align: right; + font-weight: normal; + color: gray; + } + img { border: none; } + img.dc { float: left; width: 50px; height: 50px; } + p.gutindent { margin-left: 2em; } + div.gapspace { height: 0.8em; } + div.gapline { height: 0.8em; width: 100%; border-top: 1px solid;} + div.gapmediumline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + div.gapmediumdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 40%; margin-left:30%; + border-top: 1px solid; border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; + margin-left: 40%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid; } + div.gapdoubleline { height: 0.3em; width: 50%; + margin-left: 25%; border-top: 1px solid; + border-bottom: 1px solid;} + div.gapshortline { height: 0.3em; width: 20%; margin-left:40%; + border-top: 1px solid; } + .citation {vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + img.floatleft { float: left; + margin-right: 1em; + margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.floatright { float: right; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em; } + img.clearcenter {display: block; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; margin-top: 0.5em; + margin-bottom: 0.5em} + --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ + </style> +</head> +<body> +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Some Heroes of Travel, by W. H. Davenport +Adams + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Some Heroes of Travel + or, Chapters from the History of Geographical Discovery and Enterprise + + +Author: W. H. Davenport Adams + + + +Release Date: May 20, 2013 [eBook #42749] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME HEROES OF TRAVEL*** +</pre> +<p>This ebook was transcribed by Les Bowler.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/coverb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Book cover" +title= +"Book cover" +src="images/covers.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/fpb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Map of North Africa" +title= +"Map of North Africa" +src="images/fps.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/mexicob.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Map of Mexico" +title= +"Map of Mexico" +src="images/mexicos.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h1>SOME HEROES OF TRAVEL</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><i>OR</i>, <i>CHAPTERS FROM +THE</i><br /> +<i>HISTORY OF GEOGRAPHICAL DISCOVERY</i><br /> +<i>AND ENTERPRISE</i>.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><b>WITH MAPS.</b></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">COMPILED AND +REWRITTEN BY THE LATE</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">W. H. DAVENPORT ADAMS.</p> +<blockquote><p>“Have you been a traveller?”</p> +<p style="text-align: right">SHAKESPEARE.</p> +</blockquote> + +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">PUBLISHED +UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE COMMITTEE</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION +APPOINTED BY THE</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN +KNOWLEDGE.</span></p> + +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">LONDON:</p> +<p style="text-align: center">SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN +KNOWLEDGE,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">NORTHUMBERLAND AVENUE, CHARING CROSS, +W.C.;</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">43, QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, E.C.</span><br +/> +1893.</p> +<h2><a name="pagev"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +v</span>PREFACE.</h2> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> present age is sometimes +described as an Age of Commonplace; but it has its romance if we +care to look for it. Assuredly, the adventures of its +travellers and explorers do not lose in importance or interest, +even when compared with those of their predecessors in days when +a great part of the world was still “virgin +ground.” In the following pages, this thesis is +illustrated by a summary of the narratives of certain +“Heroes of Travel” belonging to our own time; and I +believe it will be found that for “stirring scenes” +and “hair-breadth escapes” they vie with any which +the industrious Hakluyt, the quaint Purchas, or, coming down to a +later date, the multifarious Pinkerton has collected. +However, on this point the reader has an opportunity of +satisfying himself, as, by way of contrast, I have prefixed to +these Episodes of Recent Travel a succinct <a +name="pagevi"></a><span class="pagenum">p. vi</span>account of +the enterprise of Messer Marco Polo, the Pioneer of +Mediæval Travellers.</p> +<p>There is no pleasanter mode of learning geography than by +studying the works of distinguished travellers; and therefore +this little book may claim to possess some slight educational +value, while primarily intended to supply the young with +attractive but not unwholesome reading. The narratives +which it contains have been selected with a view to variety or +interest. They range over Mexico, Western Australia, +Central Africa, and Central Asia. They include the +experiences of the hunter, the war correspondent, and the +geographical explorer; and, in recognition of the graceful +influence of women, of a lady traveller, who showed herself as +resolute and courageous as any of the so-called hardier +sex. And, finally, they have the merit, it is believed, of +not having appeared in previous compilations.</p> +<p>As a companion for the fireside corner, this little book will, +I hope, be welcome to all English-speaking lads and lasses, who +will learn from its pages how much may be accomplished by +patience, perseverance, and energy.</p> +<h2><a name="pagevii"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +vii</span>CONTENTS.</h2> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">PAGE</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Sir Marco Polo, the Venetian, and his +Travels in Asia</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Mr. George F. Ruxton, and his +Adventures in Mexico and the Rocky Mountains</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Doctor Barth, and Central +Africa</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Mr. Thomas Witlam Atkinson, and his +Adventures in Siberia and Central Asia</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Alexina Tinné, and her +Wanderings in the Sudan</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page229">229</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Mr. J. A. Macgahan, and Campaigning on +the Oxus</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page260">260</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Colonel Egerton Warburton, and +Exploration in West Australia</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page293">293</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Major Burnaby, and a Ride to +Khiva</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page325">325</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p><span class="smcap">Sir Samuel Baker, and the Sources of +the Nile</span></p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page335">335</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/mpb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Map of Marco Polo’s Travels" +title= +"Map of Marco Polo’s Travels" +src="images/mps.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page1"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 1</span>SIR +MARCO POLO, THE VENETIAN,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND HIS TRAVELS IN ASIA.</span></h2> +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> should be inclined to consider +Sir Marco Polo as one of the greatest travellers the world has +ever seen. It is true he was not a man of genius; that he +was not, like Columbus, inspired by a lofty enthusiasm; that he +displayed no commanding superiority of character. But when +we remember the vast compass of his journeys, and the +circumstances under which they were carried out; when we +remember, too, how close an observer he was, and how rigidly +accurate, and his plenitude of energy and perseverance—we +feel that he is, beyond all cavil or question, entitled to be +recognized as the king of mediæval travellers. Let us +take Colonel Yule’s summary of his extraordinary +achievements:—</p> +<p>“He was the first Traveller to trace a route across the +whole longitude of Asia, naming and describing kingdom after +kingdom which he had seen with his own eyes; the Deserts of +Persia, the flowering plateaux and wild gorges of Badakshan, the +jade-bearing rivers of Khotan; the Mongolian steppes, <a +name="page2"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 2</span>cradle of the +power that had so lately threatened to swallow up Christendom; +the new and brilliant Court that had been established at +Cambaluc: the first Traveller to reveal China in all its wealth +and vastness, its mighty rivers, its huge cities, its rich +manufactures, its swarming population, the inconceivably vast +fleets that quickened its seas and its inland waters; to tell us +of the nations on its borders, with all their eccentricities of +manners and worship; of Tibet, with its sordid devotees; of +Burma, with its golden pagodas and their tinkling crowns; of +Laos, of Siam, of Cochin China; of Japan, the Eastern Thule, with +its rosy pearls and golden-roofed palaces: the first to speak of +that Museum of Beauty and Wonder, still so imperfectly ransacked, +the Indian Archipelago, source of those aromatics then so highly +prized and whose origin was so dark; of Java, the Pearl of +Islands; of Sumatra, with its many kings, its strange costly +products, and its cannibal races; of the dusky savages of Nicobar +and Andaman; of Ceylon, the Isle of Gems, with its sacred +Mountain and its tomb of Adam; of India the Great, not as a +dreamland of Alexandrian fables, but as a country seen and +partially explored, with its virtuous Brahmans, its obscene +ascetics, its diamonds and the strange tales of their +acquisition, its sea-beds of pearl, and its powerful sun: the +first in mediæval times to give any distinct account of the +secluded Christian Empire of Abyssinia and the semi-Christian +island of Socotra; to speak, though indeed dimly, of Zanzibar, +with its negroes and its ivory, and of the vast and distant +Madagascar, bordering on the Dark <a name="page3"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 3</span>Ocean of the South, with its Roc <a +name="citation3"></a><a href="#footnote3" +class="citation">[3]</a> and other monstrosities; and, in a +remotely opposite region, of Siberia and the Arctic Ocean, of +dog-sledges, white bears, and reindeer-riding +Tunguses.”</p> +<p>Who can dispute the fame of a man whose name and memory are +associated with so marvellous a catalogue of discoveries, who +anticipated the travellers of a later generation in many of their +most remarkable enterprises? At one time, the authenticity +of his statements was frequently and openly impugned; he was +accused of exaggeration and inexactitude; but the labours of +Marsden, Pauthier, and especially of Colonel Yule, have shown +that his statements, so far as they are founded on personal +observation, may be implicitly accepted.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>In the early part of the fourteenth century there lived at +Venice a patrician of good family, named Andrea Polo, to whom +were born three sons, Marco, Nicolo, and Maffeo. Nicolo, +the second of these sons, was the father of our traveller, Marco +Polo, who was born in 1254. Engaged in extensive commercial +operations, Nicolo, soon after his son’s birth, journeyed +to Constantinople, and thence proceeded on a trading venture to +the Crimea, which led to his ascending the Volga for a +considerable distance, and crossing the steppes to visit Bokhara +and the Court of the great Kublai Khan, on or within the borders +of Cathay. Kublai, the hero of so many legends, had never +before seen a European. He tendered to Nicolo and his +brother Maffeo (who travelled with <a name="page4"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 4</span>him) a right royal welcome; was deeply +interested in all they told him of the kingdoms and states of +Europe; and finally resolved on sending them back, with one of +his own nobles, as ambassadors to the Pope. In this +capacity they arrived at Acre in 1269; but as Pope Clement IV. +had died in the previous year, and no successor had as yet been +elected, the two brothers thought they might reasonably indulge +themselves in a visit to their Venetian homes, from which they +had been absent for fifteen years.</p> +<p>Nicolo remained at Venice until 1271, when, no Pope having +been elected, he deemed it well that he should return to the +Great Khan to explain the delay which had taken place in the +fulfilment of his mission. Accompanied by his brother +Maffeo, and his son Marco, a lad of seventeen, he sailed to Acre, +and thence to the port of Ayas on the gulf of Scanderoon, where +he was overtaken by the news that a Pope had at last been elected +in the person of an old friend of his, Tedoldo Visconti, or Pope +Gregory X., at that time legate in Syria. The new Pope +immediately sent for the two brothers to Acre, and charged them +with a cordial message for the Khan. He also sent him two +Dominican monks to teach the truths of science and Christianity; +but they took fright at an early stage of the journey, and +hurried back to Acre; while the two brothers, with young Polo, +started overland for the Court of the Great Khan.</p> +<p>Reaching Hormuz, at the mouth of the Persian Gulf, they seem +to have taken a northern route; traversing successively the +regions of Kerman and Khorasan, Balkh and Badakshan, and +ascending the <a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +5</span>Upper Oxus to the great plateau of Pamir—a route +followed by no European traveller, except Benedict Goro, until it +was undertaken by Captain John Wood, of the Indian navy, in his +special expedition to the sources of the Oxus in 1838. +Leaving the bleak wastes of the Pamir, the Polos descended into +Kashgar, visited Yarkand and Khotand, passed near Lake Lob, and +eventually traversed the great Desert of the Gobi, since explored +by several European travellers, to Tangut, the name then applied +by Mongols and Persians to territory at the extreme north-west of +China, both within and without the famous Wall. Skirting +the Chinese frontier, they came upon the Great Khan at his summer +palace of Kaiping-fu, near the foot of the Khin-gan Mountains, +and about fifty miles north of the Great Wall. This must +have been in May, 1275, or thereabouts, when Marco Polo was close +upon one and twenty.</p> +<p>“The king of kings” received the three bold +Venetians with much favour. “He showed great pleasure +at their coming, and asked many questions as to their welfare, +and how they had sped. They replied that they had in verity +sped well, seeing that they found the Khan well and safe. +Then they presented the credentials and letters which they had +received from the Pope, and those pleased him right well; and +after that they produced some sacred oil from the Holy Sepulchre, +whereat he was very glad, valuing it greatly. And next, +spying Marco, who was then a young gallant (<i>jeune +bacheler</i>), he asked who was that in their company. +‘Sire,’ said his father, Messer Nicolo, ‘he is +my son and your liegeman.’ ‘Welcome is he +too,’ quoth the Emperor. <a name="page6"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 6</span>But why should I make a long +story? There was great rejoicing at the Court because of +their arrival; and they met with attention and honour from +everybody. So there they abode at the Court with the other +barons.”</p> +<p>Among young Marco Polo’s gifts appears to have been a +facility for acquiring languages. He speedily mastered that +of the Tartars, so as both to write and speak it; and in a brief +space he came to know several other languages and four written +characters. He studied also the customs of the Tartars and +their mode of carrying on war. His ability and prudence +greatly recommended him to Kublai, and he began to employ him in +the public service. His first embassy was to a country +lying a six months journey distant; apparently the province of +Yun-nan, which he reached by way of Shansi, Shensi and +Szechuen. He had been shrewd enough to observe that the +Khan was disgusted with the rigid officialism of his ambassadors, +who, on returning from their various missions, would speak only +of the business they had transacted, whereas he would fain have +heard of the strange things, peoples, and countries they had +seen. And so he took full notes of all he saw, and returned +to the Khan’s Court brimful of surprising information, to +which the prince listened with evident pleasure. “If +this young man live,” he said, “he will assuredly +come to be a person of great work and capacity.”</p> +<p>For seventeen years Marco Polo remained in the Khan’s +service, being sent on several important embassies, and engaged +also in the domestic administration. For three years he +held the government of <a name="page7"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 7</span>the important city of Yangchau. +On another occasion, with his uncle Maffeo, he spent a +twelvemonth at Kangchau in Tangut. He also visited +Karakorum, the old Mongolian capital of the Khans, and penetrated +into Champa, or Southern Cochin China. Finally, he seems to +have been sent on a mission to the Indian Seas, and to have +explored several of the southern states of India. And thus +it came about that Messer Marco Polo had knowledge of, or +actually visited, a greater number of the different countries of +the world than any other man; the more that he was always eager +to gain information, and to examine and inquire into +everything.</p> +<p>Meantime, the Venetians were growing wealthy, and +Marco’s father and uncle were growing old; and increasing +wealth and increasing years raised in them an apprehension of +what might befall them in case of the aged Khan’s death, +and a desire to return to their native land. Several times +they applied to Kublai for permission to depart; but he was loth +to say farewell to the men whom he had known and trusted so long, +and, but for an opportune event, they might never have succeeded +in carrying themselves and their jewels and gold back to +Europe. In 1286 Arghún Khan, of Persia, +Kublai’s great-nephew, lost his favourite wife, the Khatun +Bulaghán. On her death-bed she charged him to supply +her place with a daughter of her own tribe, the Mongols of +Bayaut; and, desirous of fulfilling her dying wish, the bereaved +prince despatched three ambassadors to Kublai’s Court to +seek for him a fitting bride. The Great Khan received them +with all honour and hospitality, and then sent for the lady +Kukachiu, a maiden of <a name="page8"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 8</span>seventeen, and a very beautiful and +gracious person. On her arrival at Court she was presented +to the three ambassadors, who declared that the lady pleased them +well.</p> +<p>The overland route from Peking to Tabriz was long and +dangerous, and the envoys decided, therefore, on returning, with +their fair charge, by sea. While sojourning at the +Khan’s Court they had made the acquaintance of the three +Venetians, and being greatly impressed by their marvellous good +sense and experience, and by Marco Polo’s extensive +knowledge of the Indian seas and territories, they entreated the +Khan to allow them the advantage and protection of their +company. It was with profound reluctance that Kublai gave +his consent; but when once he had done so, he behaved with his +wonted splendour of generosity. Summoning the three +Venetians to his presence, he placed in their hands two golden +“tablets of authority,” which secured them a free +passage through all his dominions, and unlimited supplies of all +necessaries for themselves and for their company. He +entrusted them also with messages to the King of France, the King +of England, the King of Spain, and other sovereigns of +Christendom. Then he caused thirteen ships to be equipped, +each with four masts and nine to twelve sails; and when all was +ready, the ambassadors and the lady, with the three Venetians, +took leave of the Great Khan, and went on board their ships, with +a large retinue, and with two years’ supplies provided by +the Emperor (<span class="GutSmall">A.D.</span> 1292).</p> +<p>The port from which they set out seems to have been that of +Zaytou, in Fo-kien. The voyage was long and wearisome, and +chequered by much ill <a name="page9"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 9</span>fortune; and in the course of it two +of the ambassadors died, and as many as six hundred of the +mariners and attendants. They were detained for months on +the coast of Sumatra, and in the south of India; nor did they +arrive at Hormuz until the end of 1293. There they learned +that Arghún Khan had been dead a couple of years, and that +he had been succeeded by his brother Kaikhatu. The lady, +according to the custom of the country, became the wife of +Arghún’s son, Prince Ghazan, who is spoken of as +endowed with some of the highest qualities of a king, a soldier, +and a legislator; but she wept much in bidding farewell to her +noble Venetian friends.</p> +<p>As for Marco Polo, his father, and uncle, having discharged +the trust placed in their hands by Kublai Khan, they proceeded to +Tabriz, on a visit to Kaikhatu; and having sojourned there for +some months, journeyed homeward by way of Trebizond, +Constantinople, and Negropont, arriving in Venice in 1295, after +an absence of four and twenty years.</p> +<p>The traditional story of their arrival is related by +Ramusio:—</p> +<p>“Years of anxiety and travel, and the hardships of many +journeys, had so changed the appearance of the three Venetians, +who, indeed, had almost forgotten their native tongue, that no +one in Venice recognized them. Their clothes, too, were +coarse and shabby, and after the Tartar fashion. Proceeding +to their house in Venice, a lofty and handsome palazzo, and known +by the name of the Corte del Millioni, they found it occupied by +some of their relatives, whom they had no small difficulty in +convincing of their identity. To secure the desired +recognition, and the <a name="page10"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 10</span>honourable notice of the whole city, +they adopted a quaint device.</p> +<p>“Inviting a number of their friends and kindred to an +entertainment, they were careful that it should be prepared with +great state and splendour; and when the hour came for sitting +down to table, they came forth from their chamber, all clothed in +crimson satin, fashioned in long robes reaching to the ground, +such as in those days people wore within doors. And when +water for ablutions had been served, and the guests were sat, +they doffed these robes, and put on others of crimson damask, +while the first suits were, by their orders, cut up and divided +among the servants. After partaking of some of the dishes, +they again retired, to come back resplendent in robes of crimson +velvet, and when they had again taken their seats, the cast-off +robes were divided as before. When dinner was over, they +did the like with the robes of velvet, after they had attired +themselves in dresses of the same fashion as those worn by the +rest of the company. Much wonder and astonishment did the +guests exhibit at these proceedings.</p> +<p>“Now, when the cloth had been removed, and all the +servants had quitted the dining-hall, Messer Marco, as the +youngest of the three, rose from table, and, going into another +chamber, brought forth the three shabby dresses of coarse stuff +which they had worn, on their arrival in the city. +Straightway, with sharp knives they began to rip some of the +seams and welts, and to draw forth vast quantities of jewels of +the highest value—rubies and sapphires, carbuncles, +diamonds, and emeralds—which had all been stitched up in +those dresses so <a name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +11</span>artfully that nobody could have suspected their +presence. For when they took leave of the Great Khan, they +had converted all the wealth he had bestowed upon them into this +mass of precious stones, being well aware of the impossibility of +carrying with them so great an amount in gold, over a journey of +such extreme length and difficulty. The exhibition of this +immense treasure of jewels and precious stones, all poured out +upon the table, threw the guests into fresh amazement, so that +they appeared bewildered and dumfounded. And straightway +they recognized, what they had formerly doubted, that the three +strangers were indeed those worthy and honoured gentlemen of the +Polo family whom they had claimed to be; and paid them the +greatest reverence. And the story being bruited abroad in +Venice, the whole city, gentle and simple, hastened to the house +to embrace them, and make much of them, with every demonstration +of affection and respect. On Messer Maffeo, the eldest, +they conferred an office that in those days was of high dignity; +while the young men came daily to visit and converse with the +ever polite and gracious Messer Marco, and to ask him questions +about Cathay and the Great Khan, all of which he answered with +such courtesy and kindliness, that every man felt himself in a +manner in his debt. And as it chanced that in the narrative +which he was constantly called on to repeat of the magnificence +of the Great Khan, he would speak of his revenues as amounting to +ten or fifteen ‘millions’ of gold, and, in like +manner, when recounting other instances of great wealth in those +remote lands, would always employ the term +‘millions,’ people nicknamed him <a +name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>Messer Marco +<i>Millioni</i>—a circumstance which I have noted also in +the public books of this Republic where he is mentioned. +The court of his house, too, at S. Giovanni Crisostomo has always +from that time been popularly known as the Court of the +Millioni.” <a name="citation12"></a><a href="#footnote12" +class="citation">[12]</a></p> +<p>We pass on to 1298, a year which witnessed a fresh outburst of +the bitter enmity between Genoa and Venice. The Genoese, +intent upon crushing their formidable rival, despatched a great +fleet into the Adriatic, under the command of Lamba Doria. +Off the island of Curzola they were met by a more powerful +armada, of which Andrea Dandolo was admiral, and one of the +galleys of which was commanded by Marco Polo. The battle +began early on the 7th of September, the Venetians entering into +it with the glad confidence of victory. Their impetuous +attack was rewarded by the capture of the Genoese galleys; but, +dashing on too eagerly, many of their ships ran aground. +One of these was captured, cleared of its crew, and filled with +Genoese. Closing up into a column, the Genoese pushed the +encounter hotly, and broke through the Venetian line, which the +misadventure we have spoken of had thrown into disorder. +Throughout the long September day the fight was bravely +supported; but, towards sunset, a squadron of cruising ships +arriving to reinforce Doria, the Venetians were taken in flank, +and finally overpowered. The victory of the Genoese was +complete; they captured nearly all the Venetian vessels, +including <a name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +13</span>the admiral’s, and seven thousand men, among whom +were Dandolo and Marco Polo. The former disappointed the +triumph of his victors by dashing out his brains against the side +of his galley; the latter was removed to Genoa.</p> +<p>During his captivity Polo made the acquaintance of a Pisan man +of letters, named Rusticiano, or Rustichello, who was a prisoner +like himself. When he learned the nature of Polo’s +remarkable experiences, this Pisan gentleman, not unnaturally, +urged him to record them in writing; and it would seem that the +great traveller complied with the request, and dictated to his +new friend the narrative that has since excited so much curious +interest. Through the intervention of Matteo Visconti, +Captain-General of Milan, peace was concluded in May, 1299, +between Genoa and Venice, and as one of the conditions was the +release of prisoners on both sides, Messer Marco Polo soon +afterwards obtained his freedom, and returned to his family +mansion in the Corte del Sabbrin. He took with him the +manuscript story of his world wanderings, and in 1306 presented a +copy of it to a noble French knight, Thibault de Cipoy, who had +been sent on a diplomatic mission to Venice by Charles of +Valois.</p> +<p>The closing years of a life which, in its spring and summer, +had been crowded with incident and adventures, were undisturbed +by any notable event, and in his old age Marco Polo enjoyed the +sweetness of domestic peace and the respect of his +fellow-countrymen. On the 9th of January, 1324, +“finding himself growing feebler every day through bodily +ailment, but being by the grace of God of a meek mind, and <a +name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 14</span>of senses and +judgment unimpaired, he made his will, in which he constituted as +his trustees Donata, his beloved wife, and his dear daughters, +Fantina, Bellola, and Monta,” bequeathing to them the bulk +of his property. How soon afterwards he died, there is no +evidence to show; but it is at least certain that it was before +June, 1325. We may conclude, therefore, that his varied +life fulfilled the Psalmist’s space of seventy years.</p> +<p>Marco Polo, says Martin Bucer, was the creator of the modern +geography of Asia. He was the Humboldt of the thirteenth +century; and the record of his travels must prove an imperishable +monument of his force of character, wide intelligence and +sympathy, and unshaken intrepidity. We have thus briefly +summarized his remarkable career, and indicated the general +extent of his travels. To follow him in detail throughout +his extensive journeys would be impossible within the limits +prescribed to us; and we shall content ourselves, therefore, with +such extracts from his narrative as will best illustrate their +more interesting and striking features, and indirectly assist us +in forming some conception of the man himself.</p> +<p>And first, we take his description of the great river of +Badakshan and the table-land of Pamir—which the wandering +Kirghiz call “The Roof of the +World”—substituting modern names of places for those +in the original.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>“In leaving Badakshan, you ride twelve days between east +and north-east, ascending a river [the Upper Oxus] that runs +through land belonging to a brother of the Prince of Badakshan, +and containing a good <a name="page15"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 15</span>many towns and villages and scattered +habitations. The people are Mohammedans, and valiant in +war. At the end of those twelve days you come to a province +of no great size, extending indeed no more than three days’ +journey in any direction, and this is called Wakhan. The +people worship Mohammed, and have a peculiar language. They +are gallant soldiers, and have a chief whom they call <i>None</i> +[No-no?], which is as much as to say Count, and they are liegemen +to the Prince of Badakshan.</p> +<p>“There are numbers of wild beasts of all kinds in this +region. And when you leave this little country, and ride +three days north-east, always among mountains, you get to such a +height that it is spoken of as the highest place in the +world. And when you reach this height, you find a great +lake between two mountains [Lake Sir-i-kol], and out of it a pure +river [the Oxus] flows through a plain clothed with the most +beautiful pasture in the world, so that a lean beast would fatten +there to your heart’s content in ten days. There are +great numbers of all kinds of wild beasts; among others, wild +sheep of large size, with horns six palms in length [the Rass, or +<i>Ovis Poli</i>]. From these horns the shepherds make +great bowls out of which to eat their food; and they use the +horns also to enclose folds for their cattle at night. +Messer Marco was told also that the wolves were numerous, and +killed many of those wild sheep. Hence quantities of their +horns and bones were found, and these were made into great heaps +by the wayside, in order to direct travellers when snow lay on +the earth.</p> +<p>“The plain is called Pamir, and you ride across it for +twelve days together, finding nothing but a desert <a +name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 16</span>without +habitation or any green thing, so that travellers are compelled +to carry with them whatever they have need of. The region +is so lofty and so cold, that not a bird is to be seen. And +I must also observe that, owing to this extreme cold, fire does +not burn so brightly, nor give out so much heat as usual, nor +does it cook food so thoroughly.</p> +<p>“Now, if we continue our journey towards the +east-north-east, we travel fully forty days, continually passing +over mountains and hills, or through valleys, and crossing many +rivers and wildernesses. And in all this extent you find +neither habitation of man, nor any green thing, and must carry +with you whatever you require. The country is called Bolor +[the Tibetan kingdom of Balti]. The people dwell high up in +the mountains, and are savage idolaters, living only by the +chase, and clothing themselves in the skins of beasts. They +are, in truth, an evil race.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>[In February, 1838, Captain John Wood crossed the Pamir, and +his description of it may be compared with the Venetian +traveller’s. “We stood, to use a native +expression,” he says, “upon the +<i>Báni-i-Duniah</i>, or ‘Roof of the World,’ +while before us lay stretched a noble, but frozen sheet of water, +from whose western end issued the infant river of the Oxus. +This fine lake (Sir-i-kol) lies in the form of a crescent, about +fourteen miles long from east to west, by an average breadth of +one mile. On three sides it is bordered by swelling hills +about 500 feet high, while along its southern bank they rise into +mountains 3500 feet above the lake, or 19,000 feet above the sea, +and covered with perpetual snow, from which never-failing source +the <a name="page17"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 17</span>lake +is supplied. Its elevation is 15,600 feet. . . . The +appearance of the country presented the image of a winter of +extreme severity. Wherever one’s gaze rested, a +dazzling bed of snow covered the soil like a carpet, while the +sky above our heads was of a sombre and melancholy hue. A +few clouds would have refreshed the eye, but none could be +anywhere seen. Not a breath rippled the surface of the +lake; not a living animal, not even a bird, presented itself to +the view. The sound of a human voice had been harmonious +music to the ear, but, at this inhospitable season of the year, +no one ventured into these icy realms. Silence reigned +everywhere around us; a silence so profound that it oppressed the +heart.” <a name="citation17"></a><a href="#footnote17" +class="citation">[17]</a></p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Of the city of Lop (or Lob) and the great Desert of Gobi, +Marco Polo writes:—</p> +<p>“Lop is a large town on the border of the desert which +is called the Desert of Lop, and is situated between east and +north-east. It belongs to the Great Khan, and the people +worship Mohammed. Now, such persons as propose to cross the +desert take a week’s rest in this town to refresh +themselves and their cattle; and then they make ready for the +journey, taking with them a month’s supply for man and +beast. On quitting this city they enter the desert.</p> +<p>“The extent of this desert is so great, that it is said +it would take a year and more to ride from one end of it to the +other. And here, where its breadth <a +name="page18"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 18</span>is least, it +takes a month to cross it. It is all composed of hills and +valleys of sand, and contains not a thing to eat. But after +riding for a day and a night you find fresh water, enough mayhap +for some fifty or one hundred persons with their beasts, but not +for more. And all across the desert you will find water in +like manner, that is to say, in some twenty-eight places +altogether you will find good water, but in no great quantity; +and in four places also you find brackish water.</p> +<p>“Beasts there are none; for there is no food for +them. But there is a marvellous thing related of this +desert, which is that when travellers are on the march by night, +and one of them chances to drop behind, or to fall asleep or the +like, when he tries to regain his company, he will hear spirits +talking, and suppose them to be his comrades. Sometimes the +spirits will call him by name; and thus shall a traveller +frequently be led astray so that he never finds his party. +And in this way many have perished. Sometimes the +travellers will hear as it were the tramp and murmur of a great +cavalcade of people away from the real line of road, and taking +this to be their own company, will follow the sound; and when day +breaks they discover the deception, and perceive that they are in +an evil plight. Even in the day time the spirits may be +heard talking. And sometimes you shall hear the sound of +various musical instruments, and still more commonly the rattle +of drums. Hence, in performing this journey, it is +customary for travellers to keep close together. All the +animals, too, have bells at their necks, so that they cannot +easily get astray. <a name="page19"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 19</span>And at sleeping time a signal is +hoisted to show the direction of the next march.</p> +<p>“And in this way it is that the desert is +crossed.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>As the sea has its mermaids, and the river its water-sprites, +Undines, or Loreleys, which entice their victims to death, so the +deserts and waste places of the earth have their goblins and +malignant demons. The awe inspired by the vastness and +dreary solitude of the wilderness suggests to the imagination +only gloomy ideas, and it is conceived of as a place where no +influences or beings favourable to man can exist. Its +sounds are sounds of terror; its appearances all foster a +sentiment of mystery. Pliny tells us of the phantoms that +start up before the traveller in the African deserts; +Mas’udi, of the Ghûls, which in night and solitude +seek to lead him astray. An Arab writer relates a tradition +of the Western Sahara:—“If the wayfarer be alone the +demons make sport of him, and fascinate him, so that he wanders +from his course and perishes.” Colonel Yule remarks +that the Afghan and Persian wildernesses also have their +<i>Ghûl-i-Beában</i>, or Goblin of the Waste, a +gigantic and fearful spectre which devours travellers; and even +the Gaels of the West Highlands have the desert creature of Glen +Eiti, which, one-handed, one-eyed, one-legged, seems exactly to +answer to the Arabian Nesúas or <i>Empusa</i>. And +it may be added that the wind-swept wastes of Dartmoor, limited +as is their expanse, are, in the eyes of the peasantry, haunted +by mysterious and malevolent spirits.</p> +<p>The effect of the Desert on a cultivated mind is well +described by Madame Hommaire de Hell:—“The <a +name="page20"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 20</span>profound +stillness,” she says, “which reigns in the air +produces an indescribable impression on our senses. We +scarcely dare to interrupt it, it seems so solemn, so fully in +harmony with the infinite grandeur of the desert. In vain +will you seek a calm so absolute in even the remotest solitudes +of civilized countries. Everywhere some spring murmurs, +everywhere some trees rustle, everywhere in the silence of the +nights some voices are heard which arrest the thought; but here +nature is, so to speak, petrified, and we have before us the +image of that eternal repose which the mind is hardly able to +conceive.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Concerning the customs of the Tartars, Marco Polo +writes:—</p> +<p>“The Tartar custom is to spend the winter in warm plains +where they find good fodder for their cattle, while in summer +they betake themselves to a cool climate among the mountains and +valleys, where water is to be found, as well as woods and +pastures.</p> +<p>“Their houses are circular, and are made of wands +covered with felt. These are carried along with them +whithersoever they go; for the wands are so strongly interwoven, +and so well combined, that the framework can be made very +light. Whenever these huts are erected, the door is always +placed to the south. They also have waggons covered with +black felt so efficaciously that no rain can enter. These +are drawn by oxen and camels, and the women and children travel +in them. The women do the buying and selling, and whatever +is necessary to provide for the husband and household; for the +men <a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>all +lead the life of gentlemen, troubling themselves about nothing +but hawking and hunting, and looking after their goshawks and +falcons, unless it be the practice of warlike exercises.</p> +<p>“They live on the meat and milk which their birds +supply, and on the produce of the chase; and they eat all kinds +of flesh, including that of horses and dogs, and Pharaoh’s +rats, of which there are great numbers in burrows on these +plains. Their drink is mare’s milk. . . .</p> +<p>“This is the fashion of their religion: They say there +is a most high God of Heaven, whom they worship daily with +thurible and incense, but they pray to him only for health of +mind and body. But they have also a certain other god of +theirs called Natigay, and they say he is the God of the Earth, +who watches over their children, cattle, and crops. They +show him great worship and honour, and every man hath a figure of +him in his house, made of felt and cloth; and they also make in +the same manner images of his wife and children. The wife +they put on the left hand, and the children in front. And +when they eat, they take the fat of the meat and grease the +god’s mouth withal, as well as the mouths of his wife and +children. Then they take of the broth and sprinkle it +before the door of the house; and that done, they deem that their +god and his family have had their share of the dinner.</p> +<p>“Their drink is mare’s milk, prepared in such a +way that you would take it for white wine, and a good right drink +it is, called by them komiz.</p> +<p>“The clothes of the wealthy Tartars are for the most +part of gold and silk stuffs, lined with costly furs, <a +name="page22"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 22</span>such as sable +and ermine, vair and fox skin, in the richest fashion.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>As in succeeding chapters of this volume we shall have +something to say about the manners and customs of the Mongolian +nomads, we may here be content with observing that Marco +Polo’s “Natigay” seems identical with the +“Nongait” or “Ongotiu” of the Buriats, +who, according to Pallas, is honoured by them as the tutelary god +of sheep and other cattle. Properly the divinity consists +of <i>two</i> figures, hanging side by side, one of whom +represents the god’s wife. These two figures are +merely a pair of lanky flat bolsters with the upper part shaped +into a round disc, and the body hung with a long woolly fleece; +eyes, nose, breasts, and navel being indicated by leather knobs +stitched upon the surface. The male figure commonly has at +his girdle the foot-rope with which horses at pasture are +fettered, whilst the female, which is sometimes accompanied by +smaller figures representing her children, is adorned with all +sorts of little nick-nacks and sewing implements.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>The Tartar customs of war are thus described:—</p> +<p>“All their harness of war is excellent and costly. +Their arms are bows and arrows, sword and mace; but, above all, +the bow, for they are capital archers, indeed the best that are +known. On their backs they wear armour of cuirbouly, <a +name="citation22"></a><a href="#footnote22" +class="citation">[22]</a> prepared from buffalo and other hides, +which is very strong. They are excellent soldiers, and +passing valiant in battle. <a name="page23"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 23</span>They are also more capable of +hardship than other nations; for many a time, if need be, they +will go for a month without any supply of food, living only on +the milk of their mares and on such game as their bows may win +them. Their horses also will subsist entirely on the grass +of the plains, so that there is no need to carry store of barley, +or straw, or oats; and they are very docile to their +riders. These, in case of need, will abide on horseback the +livelong night, armed at all points, while the horse will be +continually grazing.</p> +<p>“Of all troops in the world these are they which endure +the greatest hardship and fatigue, and cost the least; and they +are the best of all for making wide conquests of country. +And there can be no manner of doubt that now they are the masters +of the larger half of the world. Their armies are admirably +ordered in the following manner:—</p> +<p>“You see, when a Tartar prince goes forth to war, he +takes with him, say, a hundred thousand horse. Well, he +appoints an officer to every ten men, one to every hundred, one +to every thousand, and one to every ten thousand, so that his own +orders have to be given to ten persons only, and each of these +persons has to pass the orders only to other ten, and so on; none +having to give orders to more than ten. And every one in +turn is responsible only to the officer immediately over him; and +the discipline and order that comes of this method is marvellous, +for they are a people very obedient to their chiefs. . . . +And when the army is on the march they have always two hundred +horsemen, very well mounted, who are sent a distance of two +marches in advance to <a name="page24"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 24</span>reconnoitre, and these always keep +ahead. They have a similar party detached in the rear and +on either flank, so that there is a good look-out kept on all +sides against surprise. When they are going on a distant +expedition, they take no gear with them except two leather +bottles for milk, and a little earthenware pot to cook their meat +in, and a little tent to shelter them from rain. And in +case of great urgency, they will ride ten days on end without +lighting a fire or taking a meal. On such an occasion they +will sustain themselves on the blood of their horses, opening a +vein and letting the blood jet into their mouths, drinking till +they have had enough, and then staunching it.</p> +<p>“They also have milk dried into a kind of paste to carry +with them; and when they need food, they put this in water, and +beat it up till it dissolves, and then drink it. It is +prepared in this way: They boil the milk, and when the rich part +floats on the top they skim it into another vessel, and of that +they make butter; for the milk will not become solid till this is +removed. Then they put the milk in the sun to dry. +And when they go on an expedition, every man takes some ten +pounds of this dried milk with him. And of a morning he +will take a half-pound of it and put it in his leather bottle, +with as much water as he pleases. So, as he rides along, +the milk-paste and the water in the bottle get well churned +together into a kind of pap, and that makes his dinner.</p> +<p>“When they come to an engagement with the enemy, they +will gain the victory in this fashion: They never let themselves +get into a regular medley, but keep perpetually riding round and +shooting into the <a name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +25</span>enemy. And as they do not count it any shame to +run away in battle, they will sometimes pretend to do so, and in +running away they turn in the saddle and shoot hard and strong at +the foe, and in this way make great havoc. Their horses are +trained so perfectly that they will double hither and thither, +just like a dog, in a way that is quite astonishing. Thus +they fight to as good purpose in running away as if they stood +and faced the enemy, because of the vast volleys of arrows that +they shoot in this way, turning round upon their pursuers, who +are fancying that they have won the battle. But when the +Tartars see that they have killed and wounded a good many horses +and men, they wheel round bodily, and return to the charge in +perfect order, and with loud cries; and in a very short time the +enemy are routed. In truth, they are stout and valiant +soldiers, and inured to war. And you perceive that it is +just when the enemy sees them run, and imagines that he has +gained the battle, that he has in reality lost it; for the +Tartars wheel round in a moment when they judge the right time +has come. And after this fashion they have won many a +fight.</p> +<p>“All this that I have been telling you is true of the +manners and customs of the genuine Tartars.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>We come next to the magnificent city of Chandu—that is, +Shangtu, or “Upper Towa,” the Chinese title of Kublai +Khan’s summer palace at Kaiping-fu. The ruins, both +of the city and palace, were extant as late as the end of the +seventeenth century.</p> +<p>“When you have ridden three days from the city of Chagan +Nor [Chagan Balghassan], between <a name="page26"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 26</span>north-east and north, you come to a +city called Chandu, which was built by the Khan now +reigning. There is at this place a very fine marble palace, +the rooms of which are all gilt and painted with figures of men +and beasts and birds, and with a variety of trees and flowers, +all wrought with such exquisite art that you regard them with +delight and astonishment.</p> +<p>“Round this palace is built a wall, enclosing a compass +of sixteen miles, and inside the park are fountains and rivers +and brooks and beautiful meadows, with all kinds of wild animals +(excluding such as are of ferocious nature), which the Emperor +has produced and placed there to supply food for the gerfalcons +and hawks which he keeps in mew. Of these the gerfalcons +alone number more than two hundred, without reckoning the other +hawks. The Khan himself goes every week to see his birds +sitting in mew, and sometimes he rides through the park with a +leopard behind him on his horse’s croup; and then, if he +sees any animal that takes his fancy, he lets loose his leopard +at it, and the game when taken is used to feed the hawks in +mew. This he does for diversion.</p> +<p>“Further, at a point in the park where blooms a +delightful wood, he has another palace built of bamboo, of which +I must give you a description. It is gilt all over, and +most elaborately finished inside. It is supported on gilt +and lackered columns, on each of which stands a dragon all gilt, +the tail being attached to the column, while the head uplifts the +architrave, and the claws likewise being extended right and left +as props to the architrave. The roof also is formed of +bamboo, covered with a varnish so good and strong that no amount +of rain will rot it. <a name="page27"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 27</span>These canes are fully three palms in +girth, and from ten to fifteen paces in length. They are +cut across at each knot, and the pieces are then split so as to +form from each two hollow tiles, and with them the house is +roofed; only every such tile has to be nailed down to prevent the +wind from lifting it. In short, the whole palace is built +of these bamboos, which, I may mention, are employed for a great +variety of other useful purposes. The construction of the +palace is such that it can be taken down and put up again with +great rapidity; and it can be removed to any place which he may +desire. When erected, it is held up by more than two +hundred (200) ropes of silk.</p> +<p>“The Emperor resides in this park of his, sometimes in +the palace of marble, and sometimes in that of bamboo, for three +mouths of the year, namely, June, July, and August; preferring +this abode because it is by no means hot; in fact, it is very +cool. When the 28th day of August arrives he takes his +departure, and the bamboo palace is pulled to pieces. But I +must tell you what happens when he takes his departure every year +on the 28th of August.</p> +<p>“You must know that the Khan keeps an immense stud of +white horses and mares; in truth, upwards of two hundred of them, +and all pure white without a blemish. The milk of these +mares is drunk by himself and family, and by no one else, except +by the people of one great tribe who have also the privilege of +drinking it—a privilege granted to them by Chingis Khan, on +account of a certain victory which, long ago, they helped him to +win. The name of the tribe is Horiad [the Uirad or +Oirad].</p> +<p>“Now, when these mares are passing across the <a +name="page28"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 28</span>country, and +any one falls in with them, be he the greatest lord in the land, +he must not presume to pass until the mares have gone by; he must +either tarry where he is, or go a half-day’s round if so +need be, so as not to come nigh them; for they are to be treated +with the greatest respect. Well, when the Emperor sets out +from the park on the 28th of August, as I have told you, the milk +of all those mares is taken and sprinkled on the ground. +And this is done at the bidding of the idolaters and +idol-priests, who say that it is an excellent thing to sprinkle +that milk on the ground every 28th of August, so that the earth +and the air and the false gods shall have their share of it, and +the spirits likewise that inhabit the air and the earth. +And thus those beings will protect and bless the Khan, and his +children, and his wives, and his folk, and his gear, his cattle +and his horses, his corn, and all that is his. After this +is done, the Emperor is off and away.</p> +<p>“But I must now tell you a strange thing that hitherto I +have omitted to mention. During the three months of every +year that the Khan resides at that place, if it should chance to +be bad weather, there are certain crafty enchanters and +astrologers in his train who are such adepts in necromancy and +the diabolic arts, that they are able to prevent any cloud or +storm from traversing the spot whereon the imperial palace +stands. The sorcerers who do this are called Icbit and +Kesomin, which are the names of two nations of idolaters. +Whatever they do in this way is by the help of the devil, but +they make these people believe that it is compassed by their own +sanctity and the help of God. They always go in a <a +name="page29"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 29</span>state of dirt +and uncleanness, devoid of respect for themselves, or for those +who see them, unwashed, unkempt, and sordidly attired.</p> +<p>“These people have another custom which I must describe +to you. If a man is condemned to death, and executed by the +lawful authority, they take his body, and cook and eat it. +But if any one die a natural death, then they will not eat his +body.</p> +<p>“There is another marvel performed by these Bacsi +[<i>Bakhshi</i>, or <i>Bhikshu</i>], of whom I have spoken as +skilled in so many enchantments. For when the Great Khan is +at his capital and in his great palace, seated at his table, +which stands on a platform some eight cubits above the ground, +his cups are set before him on a great buffet in the middle of +the hall pavement, at a distance of some ten paces from his +table, and filled with wine, or other good spiced liquor such as +they use. Now, when the lord desires to drink, these +necromancers, by the power of their enchantments, cause the cups +to move from their place without being touched by anybody, and to +present themselves to the Emperor! This every one present +may witness, and ofttimes there are more than two thousand +persons present. ’Tis a truth, and no lie; and so +will the sages of your own country who understand necromancy, +tell you, for they also can perform this marvel.</p> +<p>“And when the idol festivals come round, these Bacsi go +to the prince and say, ‘Sire, the feast of such a god is +come’ (naming him). ‘My lord, you know,’ +the enchanter will say, ‘that this god, when he gets no +offerings, always sends bad weather and spoils our seasons. +So we pray you to give us such <a name="page30"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 30</span>and such a number of black-faced +sheep’ (naming whatever number they please). +‘And we also beg, good my lord, that we may have such a +quantity of incense, and such a quantity of lign-aloes, +and’—so much of this, so much of that, and so much of +t’other, according to their fancy—‘that we may +perform a solemn service and a great sacrifice to our idols, and +that so they may be induced to protect us and all that is +ours.’</p> +<p>“The Bacsi say these things to the nobles entrusted with +the stewardship, who stand round the Great Khan, and then repeat +them to the Khan, and he then orders the nobles to give to the +Bacsi anything they have demanded. And when they have +received the articles, they go and make a great feast in honour +of their god, and hold grand ceremonies of worship, with grand +illuminations and quantities of incense of a variety of odours, +which they make up from different aromatic spices. And then +they cook the meat, and set it before the idols, and sprinkle +their broth hither and thither, saying that in this way the idols +obtain their bellyful. In this way it is that they keep +their festivals. You must know that each idol has a name of +his own, and a feast-day, just as our saints have their +anniversaries.</p> +<p>“They have also immense minsters and monasteries, some +as big as a small town, with upwards of two thousand monks, so to +speak, in a single monastery. These monks dress more +decently than the rest of the people, and shave the head and +beard. Some among these Bacsi are allowed by their rule to +take wives, and they have plenty of children.</p> +<p>“Another kind of devotees is the Sunni, who are <a +name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>more +remarkable for their abstemiousness, and lead a life of such +austerity as I will describe. All their life long they eat +only bran, which they take mixed with hot water. That is +their food; bran, and nothing but bran; with water for their +drink. Their life is one long fast; so I may well speak of +its asceticism as extraordinary. They have great idols, and +very many; but they sometimes also worship fire. The other +idolaters who are not also of this sect call these people +heretics—<i>Palamis</i>, as we should say—because +they do not worship the idols after their fashion. Those of +whom I am now speaking would not take a wife on any +consideration. They wear dresses of hempen stuff, black and +blue, and sleep upon mats; in fact, their asceticism is something +astonishing. Their idols are all feminine; that is, they +bear women’s names.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>[It was after reading Marco Polo’s account of the Great +Khan’s palace, as it is given in Purchas’s +“Pilgrims,” that the poet Coleridge, falling asleep, +dreamed his melodious dream of Kublai’s Paradise. +When he awoke he was able to recall a portion of it, beginning +thus:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“In Xanadu did Kubla Khan<br /> + A stately pleasure-dome decree:<br /> +Where Alph, the sacred river, ran,<br /> +By caverns measureless to man,<br /> + Down to a sunless sea.<br /> +So twice five inches of fertile ground<br /> +With walls and towers were girdled round;<br /> +And there were gardens bright with sinuous rills,<br /> +Where blossomed many an incense-bearing tree;<br /> +And here were forests, ancient as the hills,<br /> + Enfolding sunny spots of greenery.”]</p> +</blockquote> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p><a name="page32"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 32</span>The +principal palace of the Great Khan was situated, however, at +Cambaluc (the modern Peking), and is thus described by our +Venetian:—</p> +<p>“It is enclosed all round by a great wall, forming a +square, each side of which is a mile in length; that is to say, +the whole compass thereof is four miles. This you may +depend on; it is also very thick, and a good ten paces in height, +whitewashed and loop-holed all round. At each angle of the +wall is situated a very fine and rich palace, in which the war +harness of the Emperor is kept, such as bows and quivers, saddles +and bridles, and bowstrings, and everything needful for an +army. Also, midway between every two of these corner +palaces is another of the like; so that, taking the whole circuit +of the enclosed, you will find eight vast palaces stored with the +great lord’s harness of war. And you must understand +that each palace is reserved for only one kind of article; one +being stored with bows, a second with saddles, a third with +bridles, and so on, in succession, right round.</p> +<p>“The great wall has five gates on its southern face, the +central being the great gate, which is opened only for the egress +or admission of the Great Khan himself. Close on either +side is a smaller one, through which all other people pass; and +then, towards each angle, is another great gate, also open to +people in general; so that on that side are five gates in +all.</p> +<p>“Inside of this wall is a second, enclosing a space that +is somewhat longer than it is broad. This enclosure has its +eight palaces also, corresponding to those of the outer wall, and +stored like them with <a name="page33"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 33</span>the Emperor’s harness of +war. There are likewise five gates on the southern face, +answering to those in the outer wall; and one gate on each of the +other faces. In the centre of the second enclosure stands +the Emperor’s Great Palace, and I will tell you what it is +like.</p> +<p>“You must know that it is the greatest palace ever +erected. Towards the north it is in contact with the outer +wall, while towards the south lies a vacant space which the +nobles and the soldiers are constantly traversing. The +palace itself hath no upper story, but is all on the ground +floor; only the basement is raised some ten palms above the +surrounding soil. And this elevation is retained by a wall +of marble raised to the level of the pavement, two paces in +width, and projecting beyond the base of the palace so as to form +a kind of terrace-walk, by which people can pass round the +building, and this is exposed to view; while along the outer edge +of the wall runs a very fine pillared balustrade, up to which the +people are allowed to come. The roof is very lofty, and the +walls are covered with gold and silver. They are also +adorned with representations of dragons, sculptured and gilt, +beasts and birds, knights and idols, and divers other +subjects. And on the ceiling, too, can nothing be seen but +gold and silver and painting. On each of the four sides is +a great marble staircase, leading to the top of the marble wall, +and forming the approach to the palace.</p> +<p>“The hall of the palace is so large that it could easily +dine six thousand people; and it is quite a marvel to see how +many rooms there are besides. The building is altogether so +vast, so rich, and so <a name="page34"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 34</span>beautiful, that no man on earth could +design anything superior to it. The outside of the roof +also is all coloured with vermilion and yellow and green and blue +and other hues, which are fixed with a varnish so fine and +exquisite, that they shine like crystal, and lend a resplendent +lustre to the palace, visible far around. This roof is so +solidly and strongly constructed that it is fit to last for +ever.</p> +<p>“On the inner side of the palace are large buildings +with halls and chambers, where the Emperor’s private +property is placed, such as his treasures of gold, silver, gems, +pearls, and gold plate, and in which the ladies and concubines +reside. He occupies himself there at his own convenience, +and no one else has access to it.</p> +<p>“Between the two walls of the enclosure which I have +described are two fine parks, and beautiful trees bearing a +variety of fruits. There are beasts also of sundry kinds, +such as white stags and fallow deer, gazelles and roebucks, and +fine squirrels of various kinds, with numbers also of the animal +that gives the musk, and all manner of other beautiful creatures, +insomuch that the whole place is full of them, and no spot +remains void except where there is traffic of people going to and +fro. The parks are covered with abundant grass; and the +roads through them being all paved and raised two cubits above +the surface, they never become muddy, nor does the rain lodge on +them, but flows off into the meadows, quickening the soil and +producing that fertility of herbage.</p> +<p>“From the north-western corner of the enclosure extends +a fine lake, containing abundance of fish of different kinds, +which the Emperor hath caused to be <a name="page35"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 35</span>put in there, so that, whenever he +desires any, he can have them at his pleasure. A river +enters this lake and issues from it; but a grating of iron or +brass is put up to prevent the escape of the fish.</p> +<p>“Moreover, about a bowshot from the north side of the +palace is an artificial hill, made with the earth out of the +lake; it is a good hundred paces in height, and a mile in +compass, and is entirely covered with evergreen trees which never +lose their leaves. And I assure you that wherever a +beautiful tree exists, and the Emperor hears of it, he sends for +it and has it transported bodily, with all its roots and the +earth attached to them, and planted upon his hill. No +matter how huge the tree may be, he has it carried by his +elephants, and in this way he has formed the finest collection of +trees in all the world. And he has also caused the whole +hill to be covered with ore of azure, <a name="citation35"></a><a +href="#footnote35" class="citation">[35]</a> which is very +green. And thus not only are the trees all green, but the +hill itself is all green likewise; and there is nothing to be +seen on it that is not green; and hence it is called the Green +Mount; and, in good sooth, it is well named.</p> +<p>“On the top of the hill, too, stands a fair large +palace, which is all green outside and in, so that the hill, and +the trees, and the palace form together a charming spectacle; and +it is wonderful to see their uniformity of colour. +Everybody who sees it is delighted. And the Great Khan has +ordered this beautiful prospect for the comfort, solace, and +delectation of his heart.</p> +<p>“You must know that besides the palace I have <a +name="page36"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 36</span>been +describing, <i>i.e.</i> the Great Palace, the Emperor has caused +another to be built, resembling his own in every respect; and +this he has done for his son, when he shall reign and be Emperor +after him. Hence it is made just in the same fashion, and +of the same size, so that everything can be carried on in the +same manner after his death. It stands on the other side of +the lake from the Great Khan’s palace, and a bridge is +thrown across from one to the other. The prince I speak of +holds now a seal of empire, but not with such complete authority +as the Great Khan, who remains supreme as long as he +lives.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Let us now accompany the Emperor on a hunting +expedition:—</p> +<p>“After he has sojourned in his capital city for three +months, December, January, and February, the Great Khan starts on +the first day of March, and travels southward towards the Ocean +Sea, a two days’ journey. He takes with him fully ten +thousand falconers and some five hundred falcons, besides +peregrines, sakers, and other hawks in great number; and goshawks +also, for flying at the water-fowl. But do not suppose that +he keeps all these together by him; they are distributed hither +and thither, one hundred together, or two hundred at the utmost, +as he thinks proper. But they are always fowling as they +advance, and the greater part of the quarry taken is carried to +the Emperor. And let me tell you, when he goes thus +a-fowling with his gerfalcons and other hawks, he is attended by +fully ten thousand men, who are placed in couples; and these are +called <i>Toscach</i>, which is as much as to say, +‘Watchers.’ The name describes <a +name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>their +business. They are posted from spot to spot, always in +couples, so that they cover a good deal of ground. Each of +them is provided with whistle and hood, so as to be able to call +in a hawk, and hold it in hand. And when the Emperor makes +a cast, there in no need that he should follow it up, for the men +I speak of keep so close a watch that they never lose sight of +the birds, if the hawks require help, they are ready to render +it.</p> +<p>“The Emperor’s hawks, as well as those of the +nobles, have a little label attached to the leg to mark them, +whereon are written the names of the owner and the keeper of the +bird. So that the hawk, when caught, is at once identified, +and handed over to its owner. But if not, the bird is +carried to a certain noble, styled the <i>Bulargachi</i>, that +is, ‘the Keeper of Lost Property.’ And I tell +you that anything found without a proper owner, whether horse, +sword, or hawk, or what not, is taken immediately to that +official, and he holds it in charge. Should the finder +neglect to carry his trover to the Bulargachi, the latter +punishes him. Likewise, the loser of any article goes to +him, and should it be in his hands, he immediately gives it up to +its owner. Moreover, the said noble always pitches on the +highest point of the camp, with his banner displayed, in order +that those who have lost or found should have no difficulty in +making their way to him. Thus, nothing can be lost without +being quickly found and restored. . . .</p> +<p>“The Emperor, on his journey, is borne upon four +elephants in a fine pavilion made of timber, lined inside with +plates of beaten gold, and outside with lion’s skins. +He always travels in this fashion on his <a +name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>hunting +expeditions, because he is troubled with gout. He +invariably keeps beside him a dozen of his choicest gerfalcons, +and is attended by several of his nobles, who ride on horseback +by his side. And sometimes, as they go along, and the +Emperor from his chamber is discoursing with his nobles, one of +the latter will exclaim, ‘Sire, look out for +cranes!’ Then the Emperor has the top of his chamber +instantly thrown open, and, having marked the cranes, he casts +one of his gerfalcons, whichever he pleases; and often the quarry +is struck in his sight, so that he has the most exquisite sport +and diversion, as he sits in his chamber or lies on his bed; and +all the nobles in attendance share the enjoyment with him! +So it is not without reason I tell you that I do not believe +there ever existed in the world, or will exist, a man with such +sport and enjoyment as he has, or with such rare +opportunities.</p> +<p>“And when he has travelled until he reaches a place +called Cachar Modem, there he finds his tents pitched, with the +tents of his sons, and his nobles, and those of his ladies, and +their attendants, so that there shall be fully ten thousand in +all, and all costly and handsome. And I will tell you how +his own quarters are disposed. The tent in which he held +his courts is large enough to accommodate a thousand +persons. It is pitched with its door to the south, and the +nobles and knights remain in attendance in it, while the Emperor +abides in another close to it on the west side. When he +wishes to speak with any person, he causes him to be summoned to +the great tent. Immediately behind the latter is a spacious +chamber, where he sleeps. . . . The two audience-tents and +the <a name="page39"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +39</span>sleeping-chamber are thus constructed:—Each of the +audience-tents has three poles, which are of spice-wood, and most +artfully covered with lion’s skins, striped with black and +white and red, so that they do not suffer from any weather. +All three apartments are also covered outside with similar skins +of striped lions, a substance that lasts for ever. Inside +they are lined with sable and ermine, which are the finest and +costliest furs in existence. . . . All the tent-ropes are +of silk. In short, I may say that these tents, namely, the +two halls of audience and the sleeping-chamber, are so costly, +that it is not every king could afford to pay for them.</p> +<p>“Round about these tents are others, also fine ones and +beautifully pitched, in which abide the imperial ladies, and the +ladies of the different princes and officers. Tents are +there also for the hawks and their keepers, so that altogether +the number of tents on the plain is something wonderful. To +see the many people who are thronging to and fro on every side +and every day there, you would take the camp for a good large +city. For you must include the physicians and astrologers +and falconers, and all the other attendants on so numerous a +company; and add that everybody has his own household with him, +for such is their custom.</p> +<p>“There until the spring the Emperor remains encamped, +and all that time he does nothing but go hawking among the cane +brakes that fringe the abundant lakes and rivers in that region, +and across broad plains plentifully frequented by cranes and +swans, and all other kinds of fowl. Nor are the rest of the +nobles of the camp ever weary of hunting and <a +name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>hawking, and +daily they bring home great store of venison and feathered game +of every kind. Indeed, unless you witnessed it, you would +never believe what quantities of game are taken, and what +marvellous sport and diversion they have while residing there in +camp.</p> +<p>“Another thing I must mention, namely, that for twenty +days’ journey round the spot nobody is allowed, whoever he +may be, to keep hawks or hounds, though anywhere else whoever +chooses may keep them. And furthermore, throughout all the +Emperor’s territories, nobody, however audacious, dares to +hunt any of these four animals, namely, hare, stag, buck, and +roe, from the month of March to the month of October. +Whoever should do so would rue it bitterly. But these +people are so obedient to their Emperor’s commands, that +even if a man were to find one of those animals asleep by the +roadside, he would not touch it for the world. And thus the +game multiplies at such a rate, that the whole country swarms +with it, and obtains as much as he could desire. Beyond the +time I have mentioned, however, to wit, that from March to +October, everybody may take these animals as he chooses.</p> +<p>“After the Emperor has tarried there, enjoying his +sport, as I have related, from March to the middle of May, he +moves with all his people, and returns straight to his capital +city of Cambaluc (which is also the capital city of Cathay, as +you have been told), but all the while continuing to take his +diversion in hunting and hawking as he travels.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>We pass on to Marco Polo’s description of Tibet, <a +name="page41"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 41</span>which at one +time was considered a part of the empire of the Mongol +Khans. Its civil administration is ascribed to Kublai +Khan:—</p> +<p>“In this region you find quantities of bamboos, full +three palms in girth, and fifteen paces in length, with an +interval of about three palms between the joints. And let +me tell you that merchants and other travellers through that +country are wont at nightfall to gather these canes and make +fires of them; for as they burn they make such loud reports, that +the lions and bears and other wild beasts are greatly frightened, +and make off as fast as possible; in fact, nothing will induce +them to come near a fire of that kind. <a +name="citation41"></a><a href="#footnote41" +class="citation">[41]</a> So, you see, the travellers make +these fires to protect themselves and their cattle from the wild +beasts, which have so greatly multiplied since the devastation of +the country. And it is this multiplication of the wild +beasts that prevents the country from being reoccupied. In +fact, but for the help of these bamboos, which make such a noise +in burning that the beasts are terrified and kept at a distance, +no one would be able even to travel through the land.</p> +<p>“I will tell you how it is that the canes make such a +noise. The people cut the green canes, of which there are +vast numbers, and set fire to a heap of them at once. After +they have been burning awhile they burst asunder, and this makes +such a loud report, that you might hear it ten miles off. +In fact, <a name="page42"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 42</span>a +person unused to this noise, hearing it unexpectedly, might +easily go into a swoon or die of fright. But those +accustomed to it care nothing about it. Hence those who are +not used stuff their ears well with cotton, and wrap up their +heads and faces with all the clothes they can muster; and so they +get along until they have become used to the sound. It is +just the same with horses. Those unused to these noises are +so terrified that they break away from their halters and +heel-ropes, and many a man has lost his beasts in this way. +So all who do not wish to lose their horses are careful to tie +all four legs, and peg the ropes down strongly, and wrap the +heads and eyes and ears of the animals closely, and so they save +them. But horses also, when they have heard the noise +several times, cease to mind it. I tell you the truth, +however, when I say that the first time you hear it nothing can +be more alarming. And yet, in spite of all, the lions, +bears, and other wild beasts will sometimes come and do great +mischief; for in those parts they are very numerous.</p> +<p>“You ride for twenty days without finding any inhabited +spot, so that travellers are obliged to carry all their +provisions with them, and are constantly falling in with those +wild beasts which are so numerous and so dangerous. After +that you come at length to a tract where there are very many +towns and villages. . . .</p> +<p>“The people are idolaters and an evil generation, +holding it no sin to rob and maltreat; in fact, they are the +greatest brigands on earth. They live by the chase, as well +as on their cattle and the fruits of the earth.</p> +<p><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +43</span>“I should tell you also that in this country are +many of the animals that produce musk, which are called in the +Tartar language <i>Gudderi</i>. These robbers have great +numbers of large and fierce dogs, which are of much service in +catching the musk-beasts, and so they procure an abundance of +musk. They have none of the Great Khan’s paper money, +but use salt instead of money. They are very poorly clad, +for their clothes are only of the skins of beasts, and canvas, +and buckram. They have a language of their own, and are +called <i>Tebit</i>.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Speaking of the people who dwell in the provinces to the +north-west of China, Marco Polo relates the following curious +custom:—</p> +<p>“When any one is ill, they send for the devil-conjurors, +who are the keepers of their idols. When these are come, +the sick man tells what ails him, and then the conjurors +incontinently begin playing on their instruments, and singing, +and dancing; and the conjurors dance to such a pitch, that at +last one of them will fall to the ground lifeless, like a dead +man. And then the devil entereth into his body. And +when his comrades see him in this plight, they begin to put +questions to him about the sick man’s ailment. And he +will reply, ‘Such or such a spirit hath been meddling with +the man, for that he hath angered it and done it some +despite.’ Then they say, ‘We pray thee to +pardon him, and to take of his blood or of his goods what thou +wilt in consideration of thus restoring him to +health.’ And when they have so prayed, the malignant +spirit that is in the body of the prostrate man will, perhaps, +answer, ‘The sick <a name="page44"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 44</span>man hath also done great despite unto +such another spirit, and that one is so ill-disposed that it will +not pardon him on any account.’ This, at least, is +the answer they get if the patient be like to die. But if +he is to get better, the answer will be that they are to bring +two sheep, or maybe three; and to brew ten or twelve jars of +drink, very costly and abundantly spiced. Moreover, it will +be announced that the sheep must be all black-faced, or of some +other particular colour, as it may happen; and then all these +things are to be offered in sacrifice to such and such a spirit +whose name is given. And they are to bring so many +conjurors, and so many ladies, and the business is to be done +with a great singing of lauds, and with many lights and store of +good perfumes. That is the sort of answer they get if the +patient is to get well. And then the kinsfolk of the sick +man go and procure all that has been commanded, and do as has +been bidden, and the conjuror springs to his feet again.</p> +<p>“So they fetch the sheep of the prescribed colour, and +slaughter them, and sprinkle the blood over such places as have +been enjoined, in honour and propitiation. And the +conjurors come, and the ladies, in the number that was ordered, +and when all are assembled and everything is ready, they begin to +dance and play and sing in honour of the spirit. And they +take flesh-broth, and drink, and lign-aloes, and a great number +of lights, and go about hither and thither, scattering the broth +and the drink, and the meat also. And when they have done +this for a while, one of the conjurors will again fall flat, and +wallow there foaming at the mouth, and then the <a +name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 45</span>others will +ask if he have yet pardoned the sick man. And sometimes he +will answer ‘Yes,’ and sometimes he will answer +‘No.’ And if the answer be ‘No,’ +they are told that something or other has to be done all over +again, and then he will be pardoned; so this they do. And +when all that the spirit has commanded has been done with great +ceremony, then it will be announced that the man is pardoned, and +will be speedily cured. So when they at length receive this +reply, they announce that it is all made up with the spirit, and +that he is propitiated, and they fall to eating and drinking with +great joy and mirth, and he who had been lying lifeless on the +ground gets up and takes his share. So when they have all +eaten and drunken, every man departs home. And presently +the sick man gets sound and well.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>[Sir A. Phayre testifies that this account of the exorcism of +evil spirits in cases of obstinate illness tallies exactly with +what he himself has seen in similar cases among the Burmese; and, +in truth, the practice extends widely among the non-Aryan +races. Bishop Caldwell furnishes the following description +of “devil-dancing” as it still exists among the +Shanars of Tinnevelly:—</p> +<p>“When the preparations are completed and the devil-dance +is about to commence, the music is at first comparatively slow; +the dancer seems impassive and sullen, and he either stands still +or moves about in gloomy silence. Gradually, as the music +becomes quicker and louder, his excitement begins to rise. +Sometimes, to help him to work himself up into a frenzy, he uses +medicated draughts, cuts and lacerates <a name="page46"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 46</span>himself till the blood flows, lashes +himself with a huge whip, presses a burning torch to his breast, +drinks the blood which flows from his own wounds, or drains the +blood of the sacrifice, putting the throat of the decapitated +goat to his mouth. Then, as if he had acquired new life, he +begins to brandish his staff of bells, and to dance with a quick, +but wild, unsteady step. Suddenly the afflatus descends; +there is no mistaking that glare, or those frantic leaps. +He snorts, he stares, he gyrates. The demon has now taken +bodily possession of him; and though he retains the power of +utterance and motion, both are under the demon’s control, +and his separate consciousness is in abeyance. The +bystanders signalize the event by raising a long shout, attended +with a peculiar vibratory noise, caused by the motion of the hand +and tongue, or the tongue alone. The devil-dancer is now +worshipped as a present deity, and every bystander consults him +respecting his diseases, his wants, the welfare of his absent +relatives, the offerings to be made for the accomplishment of his +wishes, and, in short, everything for which superhuman knowledge +is supposed to be available.”]</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>“And now,” says Marco Polo, in concluding his +wonderful narrative,—“and now ye have heard all that +we can tell you about the Tartars and the Saracens and their +customs, and likewise about the other countries of the world, so +far as our researches and information extend. Only we have +said nothing whatever about the Greater Sea [the Mediterranean], +and the provinces that lie round it, although we know it +thoroughly. But it seems to me a needless <a +name="page47"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 47</span>and endless +task to speak about places which are visited by people every +day. For there are so many who sail all about that sea +constantly, Venetians, and Genoese, and Pisans, and many others, +that everybody knows all about it, and that is the reason that I +pass it over and say nothing of it.</p> +<p>“Of the manner in which we took our departure from the +Court of the Great Khan you have already heard, and we have +related the fortunate chance that led to it. And you may be +sure that, but for that fortunate chance, we should never have +got away, in spite of all our trouble, and never have returned to +our country again. But I believe it was God’s +pleasure we should return, in order that people might learn about +the things the world contains. For according to what has +been said in the introduction at the beginning of the book, there +never was man, be he Christian or Saracen or Tartar or heathen, +who ever travelled over so much of the world as did that noble +and illustrious citizen of the city of Venice, Messer Marco, the +son of Messer Nicolo Polo.</p> +<p>“Thanks be to God! Amen! Amen!”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>We incline to believe, out of consideration for the modesty of +“Messer Marco, the son of Messer Nicolo Polo,” that +he finished his narrative at the word “contains,” and +that the last sentence was added by his amanuensis. Yet the +assertion it contains does not go beyond the truth. Of all +the mediæval travellers it may be repeated that Marco Polo +is the first and foremost; and the world is indebted to him for a +vast amount of valuable information, which, but for his industry, +his perseverance, and his intelligence, <a +name="page48"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 48</span>would have +been wholly or partly lost. We owe to him a graphic and, as +it is now known to be, an accurate picture of the condition of +Asia in the thirteenth century; a picture full of lights and +shadows, but interesting and instructive in every detail.</p> +<h2><a name="page49"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 49</span>MR. +GEORGE F. RUXTON,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND HIS ADVENTURES IN MEXICO AND +THE</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">ROCKY MOUNTAINS.</span></h2> +<p style="text-align: center">A.D. 1847.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">Mr. Ruxton’s</span> sweeping +condemnation of the Mexicans is, unfortunately, confirmed by most +reputable authorities, or we might hesitate to reproduce it +here. “From south to north,” he says, “I +traversed the whole of the Republic of Mexico, a distance of +nearly ten thousand miles, and was thrown amongst the people of +every rank, class, and station; and I regret to have to say that +I cannot remember to have observed one single commendable trait +in the character of the Mexican; always excepting from this +sweeping clause the women of the country, who, for kindness of +heart and many sterling qualities, are an ornament to their sex, +and to any nation.” Whatever may be affirmed to the +discredit of the people, it cannot be doubted that they inhabit a +country which was at one time the seat of a remarkable +civilization, which presents to the traveller a succession of +remarkable and frequently romantic scenery, and a wonderful +variety and luxuriance of vegetation.</p> +<p>From the southern frontier of the United States <a +name="page50"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 50</span>it stretches +down to the isthmus which connects the northern and southern +mainlands of the great American continent. On the west its +shores are washed by the waters of the Pacific; on the east, by +those of the Mexican Gulf and Caribbean Sea. Roughly +speaking, its area is about 850,000 square miles; its population +may number ten souls to a square mile. Its form of +government is pseudo-republican; and for administrative purposes +it is divided into twenty-five provinces. Its capital, +Mexico, has 200,000 inhabitants: its only other important towns +are Puebla, 75,000 inhabitants; Guadalajara, 65,000; Guanajuata, +50,000; and San Luis and Merida, about 45,000 each.</p> +<p>A glance at the map will show you that Mexico consists in the +main of an elevated table-land, which in the south rises up into +the Cordilleras of Central America, and on the east and west +descends, by more or less gradual terraces, to the +sea-coast. Owing to its geographical position, this +table-land enjoys the profuseness and beauty of a tropical +vegetation; on the other hand, its climate is so tempered by its +various elevations, which lie between 5000 and 9000 feet, that it +has been found possible to naturalize the European fauna and +flora. A remarkable geological feature is the volcanic belt +or chain that runs from ocean to ocean between the parallels of +18° 15′ and 19° 30′ north latitude, and is +marked by several active as well as extinct volcanoes. +Among them may be named Orizaba, Cittalapetl (“The Mountain +of the Star”), Popocatapetl (“The Smoking +Mountain”), 17,884 feet, Istaccihuatl (“The White +Woman”), and Toluca. Most of the mountain chains that +break up <a name="page51"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +51</span>the table-land are of comparatively low altitude; the +principal is the Sierra Madre, or Tepe Serene. The two +chief streams are the Rio Santiago and the Rio Grande del +Norte.</p> +<p>In company with a young Spaniard who was travelling as far as +Durango, Mr. Ruxton quitted Mexico one fine day in September, +1847, bent on crossing the country to the United States. He +passed at first through a mountainous district, covered with +dwarf oak and ilex; afterwards he entered upon a tract of open +undulating downs, dotted with thickets. Villages were few +and far between, and when found, not very attractive, consisting +only of a dozen huts built of adobes, or sun-dried bricks. +Crossing a rocky sierra, he came to the town of San Juan del Rio; +its one-storied houses of stone, whitewashed, with barred +windows, looking out upon a fair expanse of vineyard and +garden. Forty miles beyond lay Queretaro; a large and +well-built town of 40,000 inhabitants, surrounded by gardens and +orchards. Its chief trade is the manufacture of +cigars. These, as made at Queretaro, are of a peculiar +shape, about three inches long, square at both ends, and +exceedingly pungent in flavour. Excellent pulque is another +of its products. Pulque, the national liquor of Mexico, is +made from the saccharine juice of the American aloe, which +attains maturity at the age of eight or fourteen years, and then +flowers. Only while it is flowering may the juice be +collected. The central stem which encloses the coming +flower is cut off near the bottom, and a basin or hollow exposed, +over which the surrounding leaves are closely gathered and +fastened. The juice distils into the reservoir thus <a +name="page52"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 52</span>provided, and +is removed three or four times during the twenty-four hours, by +means of a syphon made of a species of gourd called +acojote. One end is placed in the liquor, the other in the +mouth of the operator, who by suction draws up the sweet fluid +into the pipe, and forces it out into a bowl. Afterwards it +receives the addition of a little old pulque, and is allowed to +ferment for two or three days in earthen jars. When fresh, +pulque, according to Mr. Ruxton, is brisk and sparkling, and the +most cooling, refreshing, and delectable drink ever invented for +mortals when athirst. The Mexicans call it “vino +divino;” but, admirable as may be its qualities, it needs +to be very temperately used.</p> +<p>Between Queretaro and Celaya the traveller gradually descends +from the table-lands, and the air comes upon him with a warm +tropical breath. Nopalos, or prickly-pears, line the road; +the Indians collect the fruit—which is savoury and +invigorating—with a forked stick. At Silao striking +evidence of the geniality of the climate is supplied by the +variety of fruit exposed for sale: oranges, lemons, grapes, +chirimoyas, batatas, platanos, plantains, cumotes, grenadillas, +mamayos, tunas, pears, and apples—a list which would have +delighted Keats’s Porphyro when he was preparing a +refection for his lady-love Madeline. But if fruit be +abundant, so are beggars and thieves; and Silao is not a +comfortable place to live in! Mexico, according to its +climatic conditions, is divided into three great +divisions—the <i>Tierras Frias</i>, or Cold lands; the +<i>Tierras Templadas</i>, or Temperate lands; and the <i>Tierras +Calientes</i>, or Hot lands. From Celaya our travellers +stooped down rapidly into the <i>Tierra Caliente</i>, and the <a +name="page53"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 53</span>increased +temperature was every day more perceptibly felt. Jalisco, +the most important town on their route, is situated on the +western declivity of Anahuac, a Cordillera which unites the Andes +of South and Central America with the great North American chain +of the Rocky Mountains. Mr. Ruxton describes the table-land +on the western ridge of the Cordillera as blessed with a fertile +soil and a temperate climate. It is studded with the +populous towns of Silao, Leon, Lagos, and Aguas Calientes. +The central portion, of a lower elevation and consequently higher +temperature, produces cotton, cochineal, vanilla, as well as +every variety of cereal produce. While the littoral, or +coast region, teems with fertility, and lies in the shadow of +immense forests, unfortunately it is cursed by the ever-prevalent +vomito, or yellow fever, and its climate is scarcely less fatal +to its inhabitants than to strangers.</p> +<p>At La Villa de Leon, a town celebrated for robbers and +murderers, Mr. Ruxton met with an adventure. About nine +o’clock in the evening he was returning from the plaza, +which with its great lighted fires, the stalls of the +market-people, the strange garb of the peasantry, and the +snow-white sarapos, or cloaks, of the idlers of the town, +presented a stirring aspect, when, striking into a dark and +narrow street, a group of vagabonds, at the door of a pulque +shop, detected that he was a stranger, and, mistaking his +nationality, yelled at him: “Let’s kill him, the +Texan!” Having no weapon but a bowie-knife, and not +desiring an encounter with such overwhelming numbers, he turned +off into another street; but the rascals followed him, renewing +their wild cries. <a name="page54"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 54</span>Happily, a dark doorway invited him +to seek its shelter, and while crouching in its obscurity, he +could see them rush by, knives in hand. When he thought +they had all passed, he stepped forth, to find himself confronted +by three wretches who brought up the rear, and who, brandishing +their knives and rushing headlong at him, cried, “Here he +is, here he is; kill him!” As the foremost rushed at +him with uplifted blade, he swiftly stepped aside, and at the +same moment thrust at him with his bowie. The robber fell +on his knees with a cry of “Me ha matado!” (“He +has killed me!”), and fell on his face. One of his +companions hastened to his assistance; the other dashed upon Mr. +Ruxton, but, confused by his calm attitude of preparation, fell +back a few paces, and finally slunk away. Mr. Ruxton +returned at once to his quarters, ordered out the horses, and in +a few minutes was on his road.</p> +<p>By way of Aguas Calientes, a very pretty town, and Zacatecas, +a populous mining town, he proceeded towards the Hacienda (or +farm) of San Nicolas, with the view of traversing that singular +volcanic region, the <i>Mal Pais</i>. Down to a +comparatively recent period, it would seem to have been the +theatre of plutonic phenomena of an extraordinary +character. The convexity of the district enables the +traveller to judge very readily of the extent of the convulsion, +which has spread to a distance of twelve or fourteen miles from +the central crater. The said crater measures about fifteen +hundred feet in circumference, and its sides are covered with +dwarf oaks, mezquito, and cocoa trees, which find a rich +nourishment in the chinks and crevices of the lava. At the +bottom <a name="page55"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +55</span>stagnate the green and slimy waters of a small lake, +which is fringed with rank shrubs and cacti, growing among huge +blocks of lava and scoriæ. Not a breath of air +disturbs its inky surface, save when a huge water-snake undulates +across it, or a duck and her progeny swim out from their covert +among the bushes.</p> +<p>“I led my horse,” says Mr. Ruxton, “down to +the edge of the water, but he refused to drink the slimy liquid, +in which frogs, efts, and reptiles of every kind were darting and +diving. Many new and curious water-plants floated near the +margin, and one, lotus-leaved, with small delicate tendrils, +formed a kind of network on the water, with a superb crimson +flower, which exhibited a beautiful contrast with the inky +blackness of the pool. His Mexicans, as they passed this +spot, crossed themselves reverently, and muttered an <i>Ave +Maria</i>; for in the lonely regions of the Mal Pais, the +superstitious Indian believes that demons and gnomes and spirits +of evil persons have their dwelling-places, whence they not +unfrequently pounce upon the solitary traveller, to carry him +into the cavernous bowels of the earth. The arched roof of +the supposed prison-house resounding to the tread of their horses +as they pass the dreaded spot, they feel a sudden dread, and, +with rapidly muttered prayers, they handle their amulets and +charms to drive away the treacherous bogies who invisibly beset +the path.”</p> +<p>From the Mal Pais Mr. Ruxton travelled onward to the rancho of +La Punta, a famous cattle-breeding station.</p> +<p>In the preceding autumn it had been harried by a party of +Comanche Indians, who, one day, without <a +name="page56"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 56</span>warning, rode +across the sierra and swooped down upon it, killing, as they +passed, the peones, or labourers, whom they found at work in the +road. On their appearance the men made no attempt to defend +the rancho, but fled at full speed, abandoning the women and +children to their terrible fate. Some were carried away +captives; some pierced with arrows and lances, and left for dead; +others made the victims of unspeakable outrages. The +ranchero’s wife, with her two adult daughters and several +younger children, fled from the rancho at the first alarm, to +conceal themselves under a wooden bridge, which crossed a +neighbouring stream. For several hours they escaped +detection; but at last some Indians drew near their hiding-place, +and a young chief took his station on the bridge to issue his +commands. With keen eyes he examined the spot, and +discovered the terror-stricken fugitives; but he pretended not to +have seen them, playing with them as a cat might with a +mouse. He hoped, he was heard to say, that he should find +out where the women were concealed, for he wanted a Mexican wife +and a handful of scalps. Then he leaped from the bridge, +and thrust his lance under it with a yell of exultation; the +point pierced the woman’s arm, and she shrieked +aloud. She and her children were forthwith drawn from their +retreat.</p> +<p>“Alas, alas, what a moment was that!” said the +poor woman, as she told her painful story. The savages +brandished their tomahawks around her children, and she thought +that the last farewell had been taken. They behaved, +however, with unusual clemency; the captives were released, and +allowed to <a name="page57"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +57</span>return to their home—to find it a wreck, and the +ground strewn with the dead bodies of their kinsmen and +friends.</p> +<p>“Ay de mi!” (“Woe is me!”)</p> +<p>While at La Punta, our traveller was witness of the Mexican +sport of the “Coléa de toros” (or +“bull-tailing”), for the enjoyment of which two or +three hundred rancheros had assembled from the neighbouring +plantations.</p> +<p>A hundred bulls were shut up in a large corral, or enclosure, +at one end of which had been erected a building for the +convenience of the lady spectators. The horsemen, brave in +their picturesque Mexican costume, were grouped around the +corral, examining the animals as they were driven to and fro in +order to increase their excitement, while the ranchero himself, +and his sons, brandishing long lances, were busily engaged in +forcing the wilder and more active bulls into a second +enclosure. When this had been effected, the entrance was +thrown open, and out dashed, with glaring eyes, tossing head, and +lashing tail, a fine bull, to gallop at his topmost speed over +the grassy plain before him, followed by the whole crowd of +shouting, yelling horsemen, each of whom endeavoured to outstrip +the other, and overtake the flying animal. At first they +all kept close together, riding very equally, and preserving +excellent order, but very soon superior skill or strength or +daring began to tell, and in front of the main body shot forth a +few of the cavaliers. Heading them all, in swift pursuit of +the rolling cloud of dust which indicated the bull’s track, +rode the son of the ranchero, a boy about twelve years old; and +as he swayed this way and that when <a name="page58"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 58</span>the bull doubled, the women made the +air ring with their shrill vivas. “Viva, Pepito! +viva!” cried his mother; and, dashing his spurs into his +horse’s streaming flanks, the brave lad ran the race. +But before long the others came up with stealthy strides; soon +they were abreast of him. The pace quickened; the horses +themselves seemed to share the excitement; the men shouted, the +women screamed; each urged on her +favourite—“Alza!—Bernardo!—Por mi amor, +Juan Maria!—Viva, Pepitito!” A stalwart +Mexican, mounted on a fine roan, eventually took the lead, and +every moment increased the distance between himself and his +competitors. But Pepito’s quick eyes detected a +sudden movement of the bull, and saw that, concealed by the dust, +he had wheeled off at a sharp angle from his former course. +In an instant Pepe did the same, and dashed in front of him, amid +a fresh outburst of cheers and vivas. Getting on the +bull’s left quarter, he stooped down to seize his tail, and +secure it under his right leg, so as to bring him to the +ground. But for a manœuvre which requires great +muscular power, Pepe’s strength was not equal to his +spirit, and, in attempting it, he was dragged from his saddle, +and thrown to the ground, senseless. Several horsemen had +by this time come up, and the bold rider of the roan galloping +ahead, threw his right leg over the bull’s tail, and +turning his horse sharply outwards, upset the brute in the midst +of his fiery charge, rolling him over and over in the dust.</p> +<p>Another bull was then let loose, and the wild ride +recommenced; nor, until the corral was empty, and every horse and +horseman completely spent, did the game cease. It is a rude +game, though full of <a name="page59"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 59</span>excitement; a rude game, and, +perhaps, a cruel one; but we must not be harsh in our judgment, +remembering that our English sports and pastimes have not always +been exempt from a taint of ferocity.</p> +<p>A less manly and much more cruel equestrian game is called +“el Gallo” (“the Cock)”. Poor +chanticleer is tied by the leg to a post driven into the ground, +or to a tree, his head and neck being well greased. At a +given signal the horsemen start all together, and he who first +reaches the bird, and seizing it by its neck, releases it from +the fastenings, carries off the prize. The well-greased +neck generally eludes the eager fingers of him who first clutches +it; but whoever gets hold of the prize is immediately pursued by +the rest, intent upon depriving him of it. In the +<i>mêlée</i> the unfortunate rooster is literally +torn to pieces, which the successful horsemen present as <i>gages +d’amour</i> to their lady-loves.</p> +<p>At Durango, the capital of Northern Mexico, popularly known as +“the City of Scorpions,” the traveller was shown a +large mass of malleable iron, which lies isolated in the centre +of the plain. It is supposed to be an aerolite, because +identical in physical character and composition with certain +aerolites which fell in some part of Hungary in 1751. +Durango is 650 miles from Mexico, and, according to Humboldt, +6845 feet above the sea. At the time of Mr. Ruxton’s +visit, it was expecting an attack from the Comanche Indians, of +whose sanguinary ferocity he tells the following “owre +true” story:—</p> +<p>Half-way between Durango and Chihuahua, in the Rio Florido +valley, lived a family of hardy vaqueros, or cattle-herders, the +head of whom, a stalwart man <a name="page60"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 60</span>of sixty, rejoiced in the sobriquet +of El Coxo (“The Cripple”). He had eight sons, +bold, resolute, vigorous fellows, famous for their prowess in +horsemanship, their daring and skill at the “colea” +or “el Gallo.” Of this goodly company, +reminding us of the Nortons in Wordsworth’s “White +Doe of Rylstone”—</p> +<blockquote><p>“None for beauty or for worth<br /> +Like those eight sons—who, in a ring<br /> +(Ripe men, or blooming in life’s spring),<br /> +Each with a lance, erect and tall,<br /> +A falchion and a buckler small,<br /> +Stood by their sire,”—</p> +</blockquote> +<p>the handsomest and most skilful was, perhaps, the third, by +name Escamilla, “a proper lad of twenty, five feet ten out +of his zapatos, straight as an organo, and lithesome as a +reed.” Having been educated at Queretaro, he was more +refined than his brothers, and had acquired a taste for dress, +which enabled him to set off his comeliness to the best +advantage, and made him the cynosure of “the bright +eyes” of all the neighbouring rancheras. Next to him +came Juan Maria, who was scarcely less skilful, and certainly not +less daring than his brother, and by good judges was reputed to +be even handsomer, that is, manlier and more robust, though +inferior in polish of manner and picturesqueness of +appearance. Until Escamilla’s return from Queretaro, +he had always been victor at “el Gallo” and the +“colea,” and had laid his spoils at the feet of the +beauty of the valley, Isabel Mora, a charming black-eyed damsel +of sixteen, called from the hacienda where she resided, Isabel de +la Cadena. It was understood that she accepted them with +pleasure, and rewarded the suitor with her smiles.</p> +<p><a name="page61"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 61</span>But the +course of true love never does run smooth, and in this instance +it was fated to be interrupted by fraternal treachery. +Escamilla contrived to win the fickle beauty’s affections +from his brother, who, however, instead of resenting the deceit, +magnanimously forgave it, and withdrew all pretensions to her +hand. Escamilla and Isabel were duly affianced, and a day +was fixed for their marriage, which was to take place at the +bride’s hacienda; and in honour of the occasion a grand +“funcion de toros” was proclaimed, to which all the +neighbours (the nearest of whom, by the way, was forty miles +distant) were duly invited.</p> +<p>Two days before the appointed wedding-day, El Coxo and his +eight sons made their appearance, extorting an admiring murmur +from all beholders as, mounted on superb steeds, they rode gaily +into the hacienda.</p> +<p>On the following day, leaving Escamilla at home El Coxo and +the rest of his sons accompanied the master of the hacienda into +the plains, to assist him in the arduous work of driving in the +bulls required for the morrow’s sport; while the other +rancheros were busy in constructing the large corral intended to +secure them.</p> +<p>Evening was drawing near; the sun dropped rapidly behind the +rugged crest of the sierra, investing each ridge and precipice +with a luminous glory of gold and purple; while the cold grey +shadow of the coming night was swiftly creeping over the plain +beneath. The cry of the cranes was heard in the silence, +as, wedge-shaped, like the Macedonian phalanx of old, they +pursued their aerial flight; the shrill pipe of the mother quail +summoned together her foraging progeny; the brown hare stole from +its covert and <a name="page62"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +62</span>prowled about in search of food; and the lowing cattle +assembled on the bank of the stream to quench their thirst before +they were driven to their stalls. The peones, or labourers +of the farm, with slow gait were returning from the scene of +their day’s work; while at the doors of the cottages the +women, with naked arms, were pounding the tortillas on stone +slabs in preparation for the evening meal. Everything +indicated that the hours of labour had passed, and those of rest +and refreshment come.</p> +<p>Escamilla and Isabel were wandering among the hushed pastures, +where the last rays of the sun still lingered with a soft subdued +radiance, building those airy castles in the construction of +which happy youth is always so eager and so dexterous. In +the distance they saw a little cloud of dust rising from the +plain; in another direction they heard the shouts of the +returning cowherds, and the heavy hoofs of the bulls they were +driving towards the corral. In advance rode a single +horseman, swiftly making for the hacienda.</p> +<p>Meanwhile, the cloud of dust rolled onwards rapidly, and out +of it emerged several cavaliers, who suddenly dashed towards the +two happy lovers. “Here come the +bull-fighters,” exclaimed Isabel; and with natural modesty +she added, “Let us return.”</p> +<p>“Perhaps they are my father and brothers,” +answered Escamilla. “Yes, look; there are eight of +them. Do you not see?”</p> +<p>Ay, she <i>did</i> see, as her gaze rested on the group of +horsemen, who, thundering across the mead, were now within a few +yards of them. She <i>did</i> see, and the blood ran cold +in her veins, and her face turned white <a +name="page63"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 63</span>with fear; +for they were Comanche Indians, naked to the waist, horrible in +their war-paint, and fierce with brandished spears. +Escamilla saw them, too, and shrieking, “Los barbaros! los +barbaros!” he fled with rapid foot, and, like a coward, +abandoned his affianced to her fate.</p> +<p>A horseman met him: it was Juan Maria, who, having lassoed a +little antelope on the plains, was riding in advance of his +company to present it to the fickle Isabel. Glancing +around, he saw her imminent danger; flung down the animal he was +carrying in his arms, dashed his spurs desperately into his +horse’s sides, and hastened to her rescue. +“Salva me, Juan Maria!” she cried, “salva +me!” (“save me”). But the bloodthirsty +savages were before him. With a ferocious whoop, the +foremost plunged his spear into her heart, and in a moment her +scalp was hanging from his saddle-bow. He did not long +enjoy his triumph. A clatter of hoofs caused him to turn; +and, behold, Juan Maria, with lasso swinging round his head, and +his heart beating with the desire of vengeance, rode fiercely +towards the murderer, heedless of the storm of arrows that rained +upon him. The savage shrank from the encounter; but the +open coil of the lasso, whirling through the air, fell over his +head, and dragged him to the ground with a fatal crash.</p> +<p>The odds, however, were against Juan Maria, who, surrounded by +Indians, had no other weapon than a small machete, or rusty +sword. Bating not one jot of heart or hope, he rushed on +the nearest Indian, and dealt a blow at his head, which cleft it +open; the savage fell dead. Daunted by the Mexican’s +surpassing <a name="page64"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +64</span>courage, the others kept at a distance, discharging +their swift arrows, and piercing him with many wounds. +Spurring his horse towards them, he fought on bravely, cheered by +the shouts of his father and brothers, who were galloping full +speed to his support. Before they could reach him, an +arrow, discharged at but a few paces’ distance, penetrated +his heart. He slipped heavily from his horse, and one of +the Comanches rode away in triumph, with the heroic +Mexican’s scalp as a trophy.</p> +<p>At that moment the Indians were reinforced by some thirty or +forty of their tribe, and a desperate struggle ensued between +them and El Coxo and his sons. The latter, burning with +rage at the death of their brother, fought with such eager +courage, that, outnumbered as they were, they slew half a dozen +of the Comanches. It is probable, however, they would have +been overpowered but for the arrival of the rancheros, who, +coming up from the hacienda, put the Indians to flight. As +night had darkened in the sky, they did not pursue; but returned +to the hacienda with the dead bodies of Juan Maria and Isabel, +who were buried the next day, side by side, at the very hour that +had been fixed for the unfortunate Isabel’s marriage. +As for Escamilla, ashamed of his cowardice, he was seen no more +in the valley of the Rio Florido, but settled at Queretaro, where +he afterwards married.</p> +<p>This tragedy occurred on the 11th of October, 1845.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>From Durango Mr. Ruxton proceeded westward for Chihuahua and +New Mexico. On the second day of his journey an unpleasant +incident very sternly convinced him of the treachery and +bloodthirstiness of <a name="page65"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +65</span>the lower Mexicans. He was riding slowly ahead of +his native attendant, whom he had hired at Durango, when the +sudden report of fire-arms, and the whiz of a bullet close to his +head, caused him to turn sharply round, and he beheld his amiable +mozo [young man], pistol in hand, some fifteen yards behind him, +looking guilty as well as foolish. Drawing a pistol from +his holsters, Mr. Ruxton rode up to him immediately, and was +about to blow out his brains, when his terror-stricken and +absurdly guilty-looking face turned his employer’s wrath +into “an immoderate fit of laughter.”</p> +<p>“Amigo,” said Mr. Ruxton, “do you call this +being skilled, as you boasted, in the use of arms, to miss my +head at fifteen yards?”</p> +<p>“Ah, caballero, in the name of all the saints, I did not +fire at you, but at a duck which was flying over the road. +Your worship cannot believe I would do such a thing.” +Now, the pistols which Mr. Ruxton had given him to carry were +secured in a pair of holsters tightly buckled and strapped round +his waist. To unbuckle them at any time was difficult; to +unbuckle them in time to get one out to fire at a flying duck, +was impossible. Mr. Ruxton knew that the duck was an +invention, and a clumsy one, and to prevent another treacherous +attack, took from the fellow everything in the shape of offensive +weapon, including even his knife. Then, after lecturing him +severely, he administered a sound thrashing with the buckle-end +of his surcingle, and promised him that, if he were suspected of +even dreaming of another attempt at murder, he would be pistolled +without a moment’s hesitation.</p> +<p><a name="page66"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 66</span>After +narrowly escaping a collision with a party of Indians, Mr. Ruxton +reached a place called El Gallo, where he resided for a couple of +days in the house of a farmer. He tells us that in a rancho +the time is occupied as follows:—The females of the family +rise at daybreak, and prepare the chocolate, or alde, which is +eaten the first thing in the morning. About nine +o’clock, breakfast is served, consisting of chile colorado, +frijoles (beans), and tortillas (omelettes). Dinner, which +takes place at noon, and supper at sunset, are both substantial +meals. Meanwhile, the men employ themselves in the fields +or attending to the animals; the women about the house, making +clothes, cleaning, cooking, washing. In the evening the +family shell corn, and chat; or a guitar is brought, and singing +and dancing are continued until it is time to retire.</p> +<p>Riding onward from El Gallo, Mr. Ruxton turned aside from the +regular route to kill an antelope and broil a collop for +breakfast. He was descending the sierra to quench his +thirst at a stream which flowed through a cañon, or deep +ravine, when a herd of antelopes passed him, and stopped to feed +on a grassy plateau near at hand. He started in +pursuit. As soon as he got within rifle-shot, he crept +between two rocks at the edge of the hollow, and raised his head +to reconnoitre, when he saw a sight which startled him, as the +footprint on the sand startled Robinson Crusoe. About two +hundred yards from the cañon, and scarcely twice that +distance from his place of concealment, eleven Comanches, duly +equipped for war, each with lance and bow and arrow, and the +chief with a rifle also, were riding along in Indian file. +They were naked to the waist, their buffalo robes being thrown +off their <a name="page67"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +67</span>shoulders, and lying on their hips and across the +saddle, which was a mere pad of buffalo-skin. Slowly they +drew towards the cañon, as if to cross it by a deer-path +near the spot where Mr. Ruxton lay concealed. The odds were +great; but he was advantageously posted, and he held in readiness +his rifle, a double-barrelled carbine, and a couple of +pistols. If he were attacked, he thought he could make a +good defence; but, if unobserved, he had nothing to gain by +attacking them. On they came, laughing and talking, and Mr. +Ruxton, raising his rifle and supporting it in the fork of a bush +which served as a screen, covered the chief with deadly +aim. On they came, but suddenly diverged from the deer-path +and struck across the plain, thereby saving the chief’s +life, and probably Mr. Ruxton’s. As soon as they had +disappeared, he recrossed the sierra, and returned for the night +to El Gallo.</p> +<p>The next stage from El Gallo was Mapimi, situated at the foot +of a range of mountains which teems with the precious +metals. There he got rid of his mozo, or native attendant, +and engaged in his place a little Irishman, who had been eighteen +years in Mexico, and had almost forgotten his own language. +He readily agreed to accompany him to Chihuahua, having no fear +of the Indians, though they infested the country through which +the travellers would have to pass. They reached Chihuahua, +however, without misadventure. Its territory is described +as a paradise for sportsmen. The common black or American +bear, and the formidable grizzly bear, inhabit the sierras and +mountains; and in the latter is found the carnero cimarron, or +big-horn sheep. <a name="page68"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 68</span>Elk, black-tailed deer, cola-arieta +(a large species of the fallow deer), the common American red +deer, and antelope, are everywhere abundant. Of smaller +game the most numerous are peccaries, hares, and rabbits; and in +the streams the beavers still construct their dams. There +are two varieties of wolf—the white, or mountain wolf, and +the cayeute, or coyote, commonly called the prairie-dog. Of +birds the most common are the faisan (a species of pheasant), +snipe, plover, crane, and the quail, or rather a bird between a +partridge and a quail.</p> +<p>The entomologist would find much to interest him in the plains +of Chihuahua, and especially an insect which seems almost +peculiar to that part of Mexico. From four to six inches in +length, it has four long slender legs. Its body, to the +naked eye, seems nothing more than a blade of grass, and has no +apparent muscular action or vitality except in the two +antennæ, which are about half an inch long. It moves +very slowly upon its long legs, and altogether looks not unlike a +blade of grass carried by ants. The Mexicans assert that if +horse or mule swallow these zacateros (so called from +<i>zacato</i>, grass), it invariably dies; but the assertion may +well be doubted. The variety of spiders, bugs, and beetles +is endless, including the tarantula and the cocuyo, or +lantern-bug. Of reptiles the most common are the +rattlesnake and the copper-head: both are poisonous; and the +sting of the scorpion is fatal under some conditions. The +grotesque but harmless cameleon abounds in the plains. On +the American prairies it is known as the “horned +frog.”</p> +<p>Vegetation is very scanty in Chihuahua. The shrub that +covers its plains, the mezquit, is a species of acacia, growing +to a height of ten or twelve feet. <a +name="page69"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 69</span>The seeds, +contained in a small pod, resemble those of the laburnum, and are +used by the Apache Indians to make a kind of bread, or cake, +which is not unpleasant to the taste. This constantly +recurring and ugly shrub, according to Mr. Ruxton, becomes quite +an eyesore to the traveller who crosses the mezquit-covered +plains. It is the only thing in the shape of a tree seen +for hundreds of miles, except here and there a solitary alamo or +willow, overhanging a spring, and invariably bestowing its name +on the rancho or hacienda which may generally be found in the +vicinity of water. Thus day after day the traveller passed +the ranchos of El Sauz, Los Sauzes, Los Sauzilles—the +willow, the willows, the little willows,—or El Alamo, Los +Alamitos—the poplar, the little poplars. The last is +the only timber found on the streams in northern Mexico, and on +the Del Norte and the Arkansas it grows to a great size.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Leaving Chihuahua, Mr. Ruxton set out for the capital of New +Mexico, escorted by three dragoons of the regiment of Vera Cruz, +and carrying despatches from the governor to the commander of the +American troops then posted on the frontier. At El Paso del +Norte he entered a valley of great fertility; but this delightful +change of scenery lasted only as far as San Diego, where begins +the dreaded and dreadful wilderness significantly known as the +<i>Jornada del Muerto</i>, or “Dead Man’s +Journey.” Not only is it cursed by an absolute want +of water and pasture, but it is the favourite foraging-ground of +the Apache Indians, who are always on the alert to surprise the +unwary traveller, to plunder and kill him. There <a +name="page70"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 70</span>is no +vegetation but artemisia (sago) and screw-wood (torscilla). +About half-way lies a hollow or depression called the <i>Laguna +del Muerto</i>, or “Dead Man’s Lake,” but this +is hard and dry except in the rainy season. Mr. +Ruxton’s horses suffered considerably, but the “Dead +Man’s Journey” of ninety-five or one hundred miles +was performed, nevertheless, without accident in twenty-four +hours.</p> +<p>At Fray Cristoval Mr. Ruxton came upon the river Del Norte, +and thence pushed along its banks to the ruins of Valverde, +where, encamped in the shade of noble trees, he found a trading +caravan and a United States surveying party, under the command of +a Lieutenant Abert. The traders’ waggons were drawn +up so as to form a corral, or square—a laager, as the Boers +of South Africa call it—constituting a truly formidable +encampment, which, lined with the fire of some hundred rifles, +could defy the attacks of Indians or Mexicans. +“Scattered about,” says Mr. Ruxton, “were tents +and shanties of logs and branches of every conceivable form, +round which lounged wild-looking Missourians; some looking at the +camp-fires, some cleaning their rifles or firing at +targets—‘blazes’ cut in the trees—with a +bull’s-eye made with wet powder on the white bark. +From morning till night the camp resounded with the popping of +rifles, firing at marks for prizes of tobacco, or at any living +creature which presented itself. The oxen, horses, and +mules were sent out at daylight to pasture on the grass of the +prairie, and at sunset made their appearance, driven in by the +Mexican herders, and were secured for the night in the +corrals. My own animals roamed at will, but every evening +came to <a name="page71"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +71</span>the river to drink, and made their way to my camp, where +they would frequently stay round the fire all night. They +never required herding, for they made their appearance as +regularly as the day closed, and would come to my whistle +whenever I required my hunting mule.”</p> +<p>Mr. Ruxton remained several days at Valverde in order to +recruit his animals. He amused himself by hunting. +Deer and antelope were plentiful; so were turkeys, hares, +rabbits, and quail on the plain, geese and ducks in the river; +and he had even a shot—an unsuccessful one—at a +painter, or panther. In some men the love of sport amounts +to a passion, and in Mr. Ruxton it seems to have been equalled or +surpassed only by his love of adventure. But about the +middle of December the camp broke up, the traders departing for +Fray Cristoval; while Mr. Ruxton resumed his northward journey, +in company with Lieutenant Abert’s party. Crossing +the Del Norte, he arrived at Socorro, the first settlement of New +Mexico upon this river. Here the houses are <i>not</i> +painted, but the women <i>are</i>; they stain their faces, from +forehead to chin, with the fire-red juice of the alegria, to +protect the skin from the effects of the sun. At Galisteo +he met with a typical Yankee, of the kind Sam Slick has made us +familiar with—a kind that is rapidly dying +out,—sharp, active, self-reliant; a cunning mixture of +inquisitiveness, shrewdness, and good nature. On reaching +Mr. Ruxton’s encampment he unyoked his twelve oxen, +approached the camp-fire, and seated himself almost in the blaze, +stretching his long lean legs at the same time into the +ashes. Then he began: “Sich a poor old country, I +say! Wall, <a name="page72"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +72</span>strangers, an ugly camp this, I swar; and what my cattle +ull do I don’t know, for they have not eat since we put out +of Santa Fé, and are very near give out, that’s a +fact; and thar’s nothin’ here for ’em to eat, +surely. Wall, they must jist hold on till to-morrow, for I +have only got a pint of corn apiece for ’em tonight anyhow, +so there’s no two ways about that. Strangers, I guess +now you’ll have a skillet among ye; if yev a mind to trade, +I’ll jist have it right off; anyhow, I’ll jist borrow +it to-night to bake my bread, and, if you wish to trade, name +your price. . . . Sich a poor old country, say I! +Jist look at them oxen, wull ye!—they’ve nigh upon +two hundred miles to go; for I’m bound to catch up the +sogers afore they reach the Pass, and there’s not a go in +’em.”</p> +<p>“Well,” remarked Mr. Ruxton, “would it not +be as well for you to feed them at once and let them +rest?”</p> +<p>“Wall, I guess if you’ll some of you lend me a +hand, I’ll fix ’em right off; tho’, I tell you! +they’ve give me a pretty lot of trouble, they have, I tell +you! but the critturs will have to eat, I +b’lieve!”</p> +<p>The aid asked for was given, and some corn added to the scanty +rations which he put before his wearied and hungry oxen. +When they had been fixed, the Yankee returned to the fire and +baked his cake, fried his bacon, and made his coffee, while his +tongue kept up an incessant clatter. He was all alone, with +a journey of two hundred miles before him, and his waggon and +twelve oxen to look after; his sole thought and object, however, +were dollars, dollars, dollars! He caught up every article +he saw lying about, wondered what it cost and what it was worth, +offered to trade for it, or for anything else which <a +name="page73"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 73</span>anybody might +be disposed to offer, never waiting for an answer, but rattling +on, eating and drinking and talking without pause; until at last, +gathering himself up, he said, “Wall, I guess I’ll +turn into my waggon now, and some of you will, maybe, give a look +round at the cattle every now and then, and I’ll thank +you.” No sooner said than done. With a hop, +step, and a jump, he sprang into his waggon, and was snoring in a +couple of minutes.</p> +<p>Next morning, at daybreak, while he was still asleep, Mr. +Ruxton resumed his journey, and before evening entered Santa +Fé, after a ride in all of nearly two thousand miles.</p> +<p>There was nothing in Santa Fé to repay him for all he +had undergone in getting there. The houses were built of +sun-dried mud, and every other one was a grocery, that is, a gin +or whisky shop, where Mexicans and Americans were drinking +eagerly or playing monté. The streets were filled +with brawlers, among whom Pueblo Indians and priests endeavoured +to make their way. Donkey-loads of hoja, or corn-shucks, +were hawked about for sale. It was noise everywhere; noise +and filth, dirt and drink. The town contains about 3500 +inhabitants, and lies at the foot of a summit of the eastern +chain of the Rocky Mountains, about fourteen miles from the river +Del Norte. As for the province, it covers an area of 6000 +square miles, with a population of 70,000, divided among the +Mexico-Spanish (descendants of the original settlers), the +Mestizos (or half-castes), and the Indian Manzos or Pueblos (the +aboriginal inhabitants).</p> +<p>Mr. Ruxton was so disgusted with Santa Fé, that <a +name="page74"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 74</span>in a very few +days he had packed his mules, taken his leave of its profanity, +drunkenness, and squalidness, and, through the valley of Taos, +continued his northward route. The landscape was now +ennobled by the majesty of the Rocky Mountains, with cool green +valleys and misty plains lying among them, through which the +river had hewn its way in deep rocky cañons. The +scenery had assumed a new character of grandeur, and Mr. Ruxton +surveyed it with admiration. At the Rio Colorado he crossed +the United States frontier, and plunged into the wild expanse of +snow, with towering peaks rising on every side, that lay before +him; his object being to cross the Rocky Mountains by the trail +or track of the Ute Indians, and strike the river Arkansas near +its head-waters. The cold was intense, and when a cutting +wind swept over the bleak plains or roared through the wooded +valleys, the hardy traveller found scarcely endurable.</p> +<p>Stricken almost to the heart, he suffered the antelope that +bounded past—hunter as he was!—to go unscathed. +His hands, rigid as those of “the Commandant” in the +statue-scene of Mozart’s “Don Giovanni,” +dropped the reins of his horse, and allowed him to travel as he +pleased. The half-breed who attended him, wrapped himself +round in his blanket, and heaved a sigh at the thought of the +fine venison that was being lost. At length, a troop of +some three thousand swept almost over them, and Mr. +Ruxton’s instincts as a sportsman prevailed over the +inertness and deadness induced by the icy air; he sprang from his +horse, knelt down, and sent a bullet right into the midst. +At the report two antelopes <a name="page75"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 75</span>leaped into the air, to fall +prostrate in the dust; one of them shot in the neck, through +which the ball had passed into the body of the other. While +he was cutting up the prize, half a dozen wolves howled around, +drawn to the spot by the scent of blood. A couple of these +creatures, tamed by hunger, gradually drew nearer, occasionally +crouching on their haunches, and licking their eager lips as if +already partaking of the banquet. Mr. Ruxton flung at them +a large piece of meat; whereupon the whole pack threw themselves +upon it, growling and fighting, and actually tearing each other +in the wild, fierce fray. “I am sure,” says our +traveller, “I might have approached near enough to have +seized one by the tail, so entirely regardless of my vicinity did +they appear. They were doubtless rendered more ravenous +than usual by the uncommon severity of the weather, and from the +fact of the antelope congregating in large bands, were unable to +prey upon these animals, which are their favourite food. +Although rarely attacking a man, yet in such seasons as the +present I have no doubt that they would not hesitate to charge +upon a solitary traveller in the night, particularly as in winter +they congregate in troops of from ten to fifty. They are so +abundant in the mountains, that the hunter takes no notice of +them, and seldom throws away upon the skulking beasts a charge of +powder and lead.”</p> +<p>Mr. Ruxton pitched his camp at Rib Creek one night; at La +Culebra, or Snake Creek, the next; at La Trinchera, or Bowl +Creek, on the third. The cold continued excessive. +The blast seemed to carry death upon its wings; snow and sleet +fell in heavy <a name="page76"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +76</span>showers; the streams were covered with a solid crust of +ice. But the worst part of the journey was through the +Vallerito, or Little Valley—the “Wind-trap,” as +the mountaineers expressively call it—a small circular +basin in the midst of rugged mountains, which receives the winds +through their deep gorges and down their precipitous sides, and +pens them up in its confined area to battle with one another, and +with the unfortunates who are forced to traverse it. How +they beat and rage and howl and roar! How they buffet the +traveller in the face, and clasp him round the body as if they +would strangle him! How they dash against the stumbling +mules, and whirl the thick snow about them, and plunge them into +dense deep drifts, where they lie half buried! This +“Wind-trap” is only four miles long; and yet Mr. +Ruxton was more than half a day in getting through it.</p> +<p>Once clear of it, he began the ascent of the mountain which +forms the watershed of the Del Norte and Arkansas rivers. +The view from the summit was as wild and drear as one of the +circles in Dante’s “Inferno.” Looking +back, the traveller saw everywhere a dense white pall or shroud +of snow, which seemed to conceal but partially the rigid limbs of +the dead and frozen earth. In front of him stretched the +main chain of the Rocky Mountains, dominated by the lofty crest +of James’s or Pike’s Peak; to the south-east, large +against the sky, loomed the grim bulk of the two Cumbres +Españolas. At his feet, a narrow valley, green with +dwarf oak and pine, was brightened by the glancing lights of a +little stream. Everywhere against the horizon rose rugged +summits and ridges, snow-clad and pine-clad, and partly <a +name="page77"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 77</span>separated by +rocky gorges. To the eastward the mountain mass fell off +into detached spires and buttresses, and descended in broken +terraces to the vast prairies, which extended far beyond the +limit of vision, “a sea of seeming barrenness, vast and +dismal.” As the traveller gazed upon them, billows of +dust swept over the monotonous surface, impelled by a driving +hurricane. Soon the mad wind reached the mountain-top, and +splintered the tall pines, and roared and raved in its insatiable +fury, and filled the air with great whirls of snow, and heaped it +up in dazzling drifts against the trees. Its stern voice +made the silence and the solitude all the more palpable. +For not a sound of bird or beast was to be heard; nor was there +sign or token of human life. In such a scene man is made to +feel his own littleness. In the presence of the giant +forces of Nature he seems so mean and powerless that his heart +sinks within him, and his brain grows dizzy, until he remembers +that behind those forces is a Power, eternal and supreme—a +Power that seeks not to destroy, but to bless and comfort and +save.</p> +<p>With no little difficulty, Mr. Ruxton and his guide conveyed +their mules and horses down the steep eastern side of the +mountain into the valley beneath. Across Greenhorn Creek +they pushed forward to the banks of the San Carlos; and fourteen +miles beyond, they struck the Arkansas, a few hundred yards above +the mouth of Boiling Spring River. There he was hospitably +entertained in the “lodge” of a certain mountaineer +and ex-trapper, John Hawkins.</p> +<p>The home and haunt of the trapper is the vast region of forest +and prairie known as the Far West. <a +name="page78"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 78</span>He extends +his operations from the Mississippi to the mouth of the western +Colorado, from the frozen wastes of the north to the Gila in +Mexico; making war against every animal whose skin or fur is of +any value, and exhibiting in its pursuit the highest powers of +endurance and tenacity, a reckless courage, and an inexhaustible +fertility of resource. On starting for a hunt, whether as +the “hired hand” of a fur company, or working on his +own account, he provides himself with two or three horses or +mules—one for saddle, the others for packs—and six +traps, which are carried in a leather bag called a +“trap-sack.” In a wallet of dressed +buffalo-skin, called a “possible-sack,” he carries +his ammunition, a few pounds of tobacco, and dressed deerskins +for mocassins and other articles. When hunting, he loads +his saddle mule with the “possible” and +“trap-sack;” the furs are packed on the baggage +mules. His costume is a hunting shirt of dressed buckskin, +ornamented with long fringes; and pantaloons of the same +material, but decorated with porcupine quills and long fringes +down the outside of the leg. His head bears a flexible felt +hat; his feet are protected by mocassins. Round his neck is +slung his pipe-holder, generally a love token, in the shape of a +heart, garnished with beads and porcupine quills. Over his +left shoulder and under his right arm hang his powder-horn and +bullet-pouch, in which are stored his balls, flint and steel, and +all kinds of “odds and ends.” A large +butcher-knife, in a sheath of buffalo-hide, is carried in a belt, +and fastened to it by a chain or guard of steel. A tomahawk +is also often added, and a long heavy rifle is necessarily +included in the equipment.</p> +<p><a name="page79"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 79</span>Thus +provided (we quote now from Mr. Ruxton), and having determined +the locality of his trapping-ground, he starts for the mountains, +sometimes with three or four companions, as soon as the worst of +the winter has passed. When he reaches his hunting-grounds, +he follows up the creeks and streams, vigilantly looking out for +“sign.” If he observes a cotton-wood tree lying +prone, he examines it to discover if its fall be the work of the +beaver; and, if so, whether “thrown” for the purpose +of food, or to dam the stream, and raise the water to a level +with its burrow. The track of the beaver on the mud or sand +under the bank is also examined; and if the “sign” be +fresh, he sets his trap in the run of the animal, hiding it under +water, and attaching it by a stout chain to a picket driven in +the bank, or to a bush or tree. A “float-stick” +is fastened to the trap by a cord a few feet long, which, if the +animal carry away the trap, floats on the water and indicates its +position. The trap is baited with the +“medicine,” an oily substance obtained from a gland +in the scrotum of the beaver. Into this is dipped a stick, +which is planted over the trap; and the beaver, attracted by the +smell, and wishing a close inspection, very foolishly puts his +leg into the trap, and falls a victim to his curiosity.</p> +<p>When “a lodge” is discovered, the trap is set at +the edge of the dam, at the point where the amphibious animals +pass from deep to shoal water, but always beneath the +surface. In early morning the hunter mounts his mule, and +examines his traps. The captured animals are skinned, and +the tails, a great dainty, carefully packed into camp. The +skin is then stretched over a hoop or framework of osier twigs, +<a name="page80"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 80</span>and is +allowed to dry, the flesh and fatty substance being industriously +scraped or “grained.” When dry, it is folded +into a square sheet, with the fur turned inwards, and the bundle +of ten to twenty skins, well pressed and carefully corded, is +ready for exportation.</p> +<p>During the hunt, regardless of Indian vicinity, the fearless +trapper wanders far and near in search of +“sign.” His nerves must always be in a state of +tension; his energies must always rally at his call. His +eagle eye sweeps round the country, and in an instant detects any +unusual appearance. A turned leaf, a blade of grass pressed +down, the uneasiness of the wild animals, the flight of birds, +are all paragraphs to him, written in Nature’s legible hand +and plainest language. The subtle savage summons his utmost +craft and cunning to gain an advantage over the wily white +woodman; but, along with the natural instinct of primitive man, +the white hunter has the advantages of the civilized mind, and, +thus provided, seldom fails to baffle, under equal advantages, +his Indian adversary.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>While hunting in the Arkansas valley, Mr. Ruxton met with many +exciting experiences; the most serious being that of a night in +the snow. Suspecting that some Indians had carried off his +mules, he seized his rifle, and went in search of them, and +coming upon what he supposed to be their track, followed it up +with heroic patience for ten miles. He then discovered that +he had made a mistake; retraced his steps to the camp, and, with +his friend, struck in another direction. This time he hit +on the right trail, and was well pleased to find that the animals +were not in Indian hands, as their ropes evidently still dragged +<a name="page81"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 81</span>along the +ground. Carrying a lariat and saddle-blanket, so as to ride +back on the mules if they were caught, away went the two +dauntless hunters, nor did they stop to rest until +midnight. Then, in the shelter of a thicket and on the bank +of a stream, they kindled a fire, and thankfully lay down within +reach of its genial influence. Alas! a gale of wind at that +moment arose, and scattering the blazing brands to right and +left, soon ignited the dry grass and bushes; so that, to prevent +a general conflagration, they were compelled to extinguish their +fire. To prevent themselves from being frozen to death, +they started again in pursuit of the missing animals, following +the trail by moonlight across the bare cold prairies. Next +day their labours were rewarded by the recovery of the mules, and +Mr. Ruxton and his Irish companion began to think of +returning. The latter, by agreement, made at once for the +trapper’s cabin; Ruxton, with the animals, turned off in +search of some provisions and packs that had been left in their +hunting encampment. Since morning the sky had gradually +clouded over, and towards sunset had blackened into a dense, +heavy, rolling darkness. The wind had gone down, and a +dead, unnatural calm, the sure precursor of a storm, reigned over +the face of nature. The coyote, mindful of the coming +disturbance, was trotting back to his burrow, and the raven, with +swift wings, laboured towards the shelter of the woods.</p> +<p>Lower and lower sank the clouds, until the very bases of the +mountains were hidden, and the firmament and the earth seemed +mingled together. Though neither branch nor spray was +stirred, the valley rang <a name="page82"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 82</span>with a hoarse murmur. Through +the gloom the leafless branches of the huge cotton-wood trees +protruded like the gaunt arms of fleshless phantoms. The +whole scene was eery and weird, impressing the mind with an +indefinable sense of awe, with an apprehension of approaching +disaster. The traveller turned his animals towards the +covert of the wood; and they, quivering with terror, were not +less eager than himself to gain it. Two-thirds of the +distance still lay before them, when the windows of heaven +opened, and the storm broke, and a tremendous roar filled the +valley, and thick showers of sleet descended, freezing as it +fell. The lonely traveller’s hunting-shirt was soaked +through in a moment, and in another moment frozen hard. The +enormous hailstones, beating on his exposed head and +face—for the wind had carried away his cap—almost +stunned and blinded him. The mule he bestrode was suddenly +caparisoned with a sheet of ice. To ride was +impossible. He sprang to the ground, and wrapped himself in +the saddle-cloth. As the storm beat in front of them, the +animals wheeled away from the wood, turned their backs upon it, +and made for the open prairies; still, through the intense +darkness, whirled and buffeted in clouds of driving snow, Mr. +Ruxton steadfastly followed them. His sufferings were +indescribable; but he persevered. The wind chilled his +blood; the sleet wounded his eyes; with difficulty his weary feet +toiled through the gathering snow, which was soon two feet in +depth; but he persevered. This quality of tenaciousness, +without which no man can become a successful traveller, any more +than he can become a successful musician, painter, sculptor, +engineer, Mr. Ruxton possessed in <a name="page83"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 83</span>an eminent degree. He pursued +the frightened animals across the darkening prairie, until, +suddenly, on the leeward side of a tuft of bushes, they stood +still. Some vain attempts he made to turn them towards the +wood; they would not move; so that at length, completely +exhausted, and seeing before him nothing but inevitable death, he +sank down behind them in the deep snow, covering his head with +his blanket—far away from human habitation,—far away +from all help, but that of God!</p> +<p>Ah, what a night was that! How the wind roared over the +frozen plain! How the snow rolled before it in dense huge +billows, that took in the darkness a sombre greyish colour! +What horrible sounds surged upon the ear and brain of the +benumbed watcher, as, with his head on his knees, pressed down by +the snow as by a leaden weight, with the chilled blood scarcely +flowing in his veins, and an icy torpor threatening to arrest the +very motion of his heart, he struggled against the temptation of +a slumber from which he knew that he should wake no more on +earth! Once yield to that fatal sleep, and farewell to +life! Yet how he longed to close his aching eyes, to rest +his weary brain, to cease from the tumult of thought and feeling +that confused and exhausted him! Every now and then the +mules would groan heavily, and fall upon the snow, and again +struggle to their legs. Every now and then the yell of +famished wolves arose in the pauses of the storm. So passed +the night, or, rather, to the hunter it seemed as if it were +prolonging itself into day; each second was lengthened into a +minute, each minute into an hour. At last, by keeping his +hands buried in the bosom of his <a name="page84"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 84</span>hunting-shirt, he so far restored +their natural warmth, that he was able to strike a match and set +light to his pipe, a large one made of cotton-wood bark, that +chanced, by great good fortune, to be filled with tobacco to the +brim. This he smoked with intense delight, and no doubt the +stimulus it afforded saved his life.</p> +<p>He was sinking, however, into a dreamy drowsiness, when he was +roused by a movement among the mules, which cheered him by +proving that they were still alive. With some difficulty he +lifted his head to get a look at the weather, but all was pitch +dark. Was it still night? Suddenly he remembered that +he was buried deep in snow, and thrusting his arm above him, he +worked out a hole, through which he could see the sheen of stars +and the glimmer of blue sky. After one or two efforts, he +contrived to stand on his feet, and then he discovered that +morning was dawning slowly in the east, whore the horizon was +clear of clouds. By dint of constant exertion he regained +the use of his limbs, and, springing on his horse, drove the +mules before him at full speed across the prairie, and through +the valley, until he reached the Arkansas, where he was welcomed +as one who had risen from the grave. It took him two days, +however, to recover from the effects of that fearful night among +the snow.</p> +<p>One of Mr. Ruxton’s most agreeable excursions was to the +Boiling Spring River and the Boiling Fountains, which he found to +be situated in the midst of picturesque combinations of wood and +rock. These celebrated springs issue from round holes in a +large, flat white rock, at some distance from each other; the gas +escapes with a hissing sound, like that of water in a state of +ebullition; and the taste is <a name="page85"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 85</span>peculiarly refreshing, like that of, +but seeming more pungent than, the very best soda-water. +The Indians call them the “medicine” springs, and +regard them with superstitious reverence as the haunts of a +spirit, who, by breathing through the transparent fluid, causes +the perturbation of its surface. As to this water-spirit +the Arapahoes attribute the power of preventing the success or +bringing about the failure of their war expeditions, they never +pass the springs without leaving there some propitiatory +offerings, such as beads, wampum, knives, pieces of red cloth, +strips of deerskin, and mocassins. The country round about +was formerly in the hands of the Shoshone, or Snake Indians, of +whom the Comanches are a branch: the latter now dwell to the east +of the Rocky Mountains; the former to the west, or in the +recesses of the mountains themselves.</p> +<p>The Snake Indians connect a curious legend with these two +springs of sweet and bitter water.</p> +<p>They say that, hundreds of years ago, when the cotton-wood +trees on the Rio Colorado were no higher than arrows, and the red +man hunted the buffalo on the plains, all people spoke the same +language, and two parties of hunters never met without smoking +together the pipe of peace. In this happy age, it chanced +on one occasion that a couple of hunters, belonging to different +tribes, met on the bank of a small rivulet, in which they +designed to quench their thirst. A bright clear thread of +water, trickling from a spring in a rock a few feet from the +bank, it wound its silvery way into the river. Now, while +one of the hunters threw himself at once on the ground, and +plunged his face into the running stream, the other first flung +from his <a name="page86"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +86</span>back a fine deer, and then, turning towards the spring, +poured some of the water out as a libation to the Great Spirit, +who had rewarded his prowess with bow and arrow, and caused the +fountain to flow, at which he was about to refresh himself.</p> +<p>And it came to pass that the other hunter, who had killed no +fat buck, and had forgotten to make the usual peace-offering, +felt his heart swell with rage and jealousy; and the Evil Spirit +taking possession of him, he sought for an excuse to quarrel with +the stranger Indian. Rising to his feet with a moody frown +upon his brow, he exclaimed—</p> +<p>“Why does a stranger drink at the spring-head, when one +to whom the spring belongs is content to drink of the water that +runs from it?”</p> +<p>“The Great Spirit,” replied the other, +“places the cool water at the spring, that his children may +drink it pure and undefiled. The running water is for the +beasts that inhabit the plains. Au-sa-qua is a chief of the +Shoshone, and he drinks at the head of the waters.”</p> +<p>“The Shoshone,” answered the first speaker, +“is but a tribe of the Comanche. Wa-co-mish is the +chief of the great nation. Why does a Shoshone dare to +drink above him?”</p> +<p>“He has said it. The Shoshone drinks at the +spring-head; let other nations be satisfied with the water of the +stream that runs into the fields. Au-sa-qua is chief of his +nation. The Comanche are brothers; let them both drink of +the same water.”</p> +<p>“The Shoshone pays tribute to the Comanche. +Wa-co-mish leads that nation to war. Wa-co-mish is chief of +the Shoshone, as he is of his own people.”</p> +<p><a name="page87"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +87</span>“Wa-co-mish lies,” said Au-sa-qua coldly; +“his tongue is forked like the rattlesnake’s; his +heart is as black as the Misho-tunga (evil spirit). When +the Manitou made his children, whether Shoshone or Comanche, +Arapaho, Shi-an, or Pá-ui, he gave them buffalo to eat, +and the pure water of the crystal fountain to quench their +thirst. He said not to one, ‘Drink here,’ or to +the other, ‘Drink there,’ but gave to all the bright +clear fountain, that all might drink.”</p> +<p>A tempest of fury swept over the soul of Wa-comish as he +listened to these words; but he was a coward at heart, and durst +not openly encounter the cooler and more courageous +Shoshone. But when the latter, hot with speaking, again +stooped to drink of the refreshing waters, Wa-co-mish suddenly +threw himself upon him, pressed his head beneath the surface, and +held it there, until his victim, suffocated, ceased to struggle, +and fell forward into the spring, dead.</p> +<p>The murderer had satisfied his passion; but was he +happy? No; as he gazed at the corpse of his victim, he was +seized with a passionate sense of remorse and regret. +Loathing himself for the crime he had committed, he proceeded to +drag the body a few paces from the water, which, thereupon, was +suddenly disturbed. The wave trembled to and fro, and +bubbles, rising to the surface, escaped in hissing gas. +And, as a vaporous cloud gradually rose and sank, the figure of +an aged Indian was revealed to the murderer’s straining +eyes, whom, by his noble countenance, his long sinewy hand, and +his silvery beard, he knew to be the great Wau-kan-aga, the +father of the Shoshone and Comanche nation, still <a +name="page88"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 88</span>remembered +and revered for the good deeds and the heroic acts he had done in +life.</p> +<p>Stretching out a war-club towards the shrinking, trembling +Wa-co-mish, he said:</p> +<p>“Accursed of my tribe! this day hast thou snapt the link +that bound together the mightiest nations of the world, while the +blood of the brave Shoshone cries to the Manitou for +vengeance. May the water of thy tribe be rank and bitter in +their throats!” And, swinging round his ponderous +war-club, he dashed out the brains of the treacherous Comanche, +so that he fell headlong into the spring, which, from that day, +has ever been nauseous to the taste, and an offence to thirsty +lips. But at the same time, to preserve the memory of the +noble Au-sa-qua, he struck a hard flint rock, higher up the +rivulet, with his club, and called forth a fountain of crystal +water, which, even in our own times, is the joy and the delight +of men.</p> +<p>“Never,” says Mr. Ruxton, “never was there +such a paradise for hunters as this lone and solitary spot. +The shelving prairie, at the bottom of which the springs are +situated, is entirely surrounded by rugged mountains, and, +containing perhaps about two or three acres of excellent grass, +affords a safe pasture to their animals, which would hardly care +to wander from such feeding. Immediately overhead, +Pike’s Peak, at an elevation of 12,000 feet above the level +of the sea, towers high into the clouds; whilst from the +fountain, like a granitic amphitheatre, ridge after ridge, +clothed with pine and cedar, rises and meets the stupendous mass +of mountains, well called ‘Rocky,’ which stretches +far away north and <a name="page89"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +89</span>southward, their gigantic peaks being visible above the +strata of clouds which hide their rugged bases.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>But here our companionship with Mr. Ruxton ceases. His +travels in the United States do not present any uncommon or +remarkable feature; do not differ from those of the thousand and +one sightseers who yearly cross the Atlantic, and survey the +broad territories of the great Western Republic. With a +small party he crossed the wide-rolling prairies to Fort +Leavenworth; thence, passing the Kansas or Caro river, and +entering upon a picturesque country of hill and dale, well wooded +and watered, he penetrated into the valley of the Missouri. +Down that noble stream he made his way to St. Louis, and +afterwards traversed the prairies of Illinois to Chicago; not +then, as it is now, the capital of the West, and the great corn +depôt of the Mississippi States. From Chicago he +crossed Lake Michigan to Kalamazoo, where he took the rail to +Detroit. A Canadian steamer conveyed him to Buffalo. +Thence, by rail, he travelled to Albany, and descended the +majestic Hudson to New York. His home voyage was swift and +prosperous, and he arrived at Liverpool in the middle of August, +1847. <a name="citation89"></a><a href="#footnote89" +class="citation">[89]</a></p> +<h2><a name="page90"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 90</span>DOCTOR +BARTH,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND CENTRAL AFRICA.</span></h2> +<p style="text-align: center">A.D. 1850.</p> +<h3>I.</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Dr. Heinrich Barth</span>, a native of +Hamburg, and lecturer at the University of Berlin upon geography, +had already had some experience of African travel, when, in 1849, +he learned that Mr. James Richardson had planned an expedition +from London to Central Africa, with the view of opening up the +Soudan to European commerce, and substituting for the cruel +slave-trade the legitimate enterprise of working the natural +riches of the country. Dr. Barth obtained permission to +accompany it, and with another volunteer, also a German, named +Overweg, he repaired to head-quarters. The expedition was +authorized and supported by the British Government. It met, +therefore, with no preliminary difficulties; and we may begin our +summary of its adventures at Tripoli, whence it started for the +south on the 24th of March, 1850. Entering the Fezzan, it +crossed the rocky and elevated plateau known as the Hammada, and +through fertile wadys, or valley-basins, separated by precipitous +ridges and broad <a name="page91"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +91</span>wastes of sand, made its way to Mourzouk, the capital, +situated in a sandy plain, where agricultural labour is possible +only under the shelter of the date-palms. The town has no +rich merchants, and is not so much a commercial depôt as a +place of transit. For Dr. Barth and his companions it was, +however, the first stage of their journey, and, indeed, their +true point of departure. They made all haste, therefore, to +leave it, and on the 13th of June entered upon their great +undertaking. On the 25th, after an unavoidable delay, they +quitted Tasua, crossed a considerable mass of sand-hills, and +descended into a more agreeable district, where the heights were +crowned by tamarisk trees, each height standing alone and +isolated, like sentinels along the front of an army. This +pleasant variety of scenery did not last long, however; they came +again upon a soil as rocky as that of the Hammada, and met with +an alternation of green valleys and sterile promontories, similar +to that which they had explored before they reached Mourzouk.</p> +<p>They had reached the Wady Elaveu, a huge depression running +north and south, when, at a distance of two hundred yards from +their camp, they discovered a pond, forming a centre of life in +that solitary region. Everybody hastened to enjoy a bath; a +crowd of pintados and gangas hovered, with bright-coloured wings, +above the laughing, frolicking company, waiting until they could +take their places. While in this vicinity the travellers +were disturbed by the conduct of some Towaregs, who had been +engaged to conduct them to Selompih. Eventually, some +slight change was made in the plans of the expedition, which, <a +name="page92"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 92</span>it was +determined, should go on to Ghat, and remain there for six days; +while the Towaregs, on their part, undertook to set out +immediately afterwards for the Asben. Striking into the +valley of Tanesof, they saw before them, revelling in the glow +and gleam of the sunset, the Demons’ Mountain, or Mount +Iniden; its perpendicular summit, adorned with towers and +battlements, showed its white outlines vividly against a +dark-blue sky. Westward, the horizon was bounded by a range +of sand-hills, which the wind swept like a mighty besom, filling +the air with sharp, gritty sand, and covering the entire surface +of the valley.</p> +<p>On the following morning, their course carried them towards an +enchanted mountain, which the wild legends of the natives have +invested with picturesque interest. In spite of the +warnings of the Towaregs, or perhaps because they had cautioned +Dr. Barth not to risk his life in scaling that palace of the evil +spirits, he resolved on attempting the sacrilegious +enterprise. Unable to obtain guides, neither threats nor +bribes prevailing over their superstitious terrors, he set out +alone, in the belief that it had been formerly a place of +religious worship, and that he should find there either +sculptures or curious inscriptions. Unfortunately, he took +with him no provisions but some biscuits and dates, and worse +food cannot be imagined where there is a want of water. +Crossing the sand-hills, he entered upon a bare and sterile +plain, strewn with black pebbles, and studded with little mounds +or hillocks of the same colour. Then he followed the bed of +a torrent, its banks dotted with herbage, which offered an asylum +to a couple of antelopes. Anxious for the safety of their +young, the timid animals did <a name="page93"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 93</span>not move at his approach. +Affection inspired them with courage; they raised their heads +boldly, and waved their tails. The enchanted palace seemed +to recede as he advanced; finding himself in front of a dark deep +ravine, he changed his course, only to find the passage barred by +a precipice. Under the glare and glow of a burning sun he +undauntedly pursued his way, and at last, spent with fatigue and +exertion, reached the summit, which was only a few feet wide, and +could boast neither of sculptures nor inscriptions.</p> +<p>From so lofty a watch-tower the prospect was necessarily +extensive; but on surveying the plain below with anxious glance, +Dr. Barth failed to detect any sign of the caravan. He was +hungry and athirst; but his dates and biscuit were not eatable, +and his supply of water was so limited that he durst not indulge +himself with more than a mouthful. Feeble and spent as he +was, to descend was imperative; he had no water left when he once +more stood upon the plain. He dragged his weary limbs +onward for some time, but at length was forced to own to himself +that he did not know the direction he ought to take. He +fired his pistol; but it elicited no reply. Wandering +further and further from the route, he came upon a small grassy +oasis, where some huts had been constructed of the branches of +the tamarisk. With hopeful heart he hurried towards them; +they were empty. Then in the distance he saw a long train +of loaded camels ploughing their slow way through the sand; no, +it was an illusion!—the illusion of fever. When night +fell, he descried a fire gleaming redly against the darkened sky; +it must be that of the caravan! Again he fired his pistol, +and again there <a name="page94"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +94</span>was no answer. Still the flame rose steadily +towards heaven, and seemed to beckon him to a place where he +should find rest and safety; but he was unable to profit by the +signal. He fired again; no answering sound came forth from +the silence of the mysterious night, and Dr. Barth, on his knees, +entrusted his life to the Divine Mercy, and waited and watched +for the dawn of day. The dawn came, as it comes to all +God’s creatures, whether rich or poor, happy or +wretched—comes with a blessing and a promise that are too +often accepted without thought or emotion of gratitude; the dawn +came, and still the calm of the desert remained unbroken. +He loaded his pistol with a double charge, and the report, +travelling from echo to echo, seemed loud enough to awaken the +dead; it was heard by no human ear but his own. The sun, +for whose beams he had prayed in the night-watches, rose in all +its glory; the heat became intense; slowly the belated wayfarer +crawled along the hot sand to seek the scanty shelter afforded by +the leafless branches of the tamarisk. At noon there was +scarcely shade enough to protect even his head, and in an agony +of thirst, he opened a vein, drank a little of his own blood, and +lost all consciousness. When he recovered his senses, the +sun had set behind the mountain. He dragged himself a few +paces from the tamarisk, and was examining the dreary level with +sorrowful eyes, when he suddenly heard the voice of a +camel. Never had he listened to music so delightful! +For twenty-four hours had his sufferings been prolonged, and he +was completely exhausted when rescued by one of the Towaregs of +the caravan who had been sent in search of him.</p> +<p><a name="page95"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 95</span>The +caravan spent six days in the double oasis of Ghat and Barakat, +where crops of green millet, taking the place of barley and rye, +indicated the neighbourhood of Nigritiá. The gardens +were neatly fenced and carefully cultivated; turtle-doves and +pigeons cooed among the branches; the clean, well-built houses +were each provided with a terraced roof. Dr. Barth observed +that the male inhabitants worked with industry and intelligence; +as for the women, almost every one had a babe on her shoulders, +and children swarmed by the wayside. As a whole, the +population was far superior, physically and morally, to the +mixed, hybrid race of the Fezzan.</p> +<p>They left the gracious and grateful oasis to plunge into the +desert, a chaos of sandstone and granite rocks. On the 30th +of July, they reached the junction-point of two ravines which +formed a sort of “four-ways” among these confused +masses. The wady which crossed their route was about sixty +feet broad, but, at a short distance, narrowed suddenly into a +defile between gigantic precipices upwards of a thousand feet in +height—a defile which in the rainy season must be converted +into a veritable cataract, to judge from an excavated basin at +the mouth, which, when Dr. Barth and his companions passed, was +full of fresh and limpid water. This +“four-ways,” and these defiles, form the valley of +Aguéri, long known to European geographers by the name of +Amaïs.</p> +<p>The unpleasant intelligence now arrived that a powerful chief, +named Sidi-Jalef-Sakertaf, projected an expedition against their +peaceful caravan. Fortunately, it was only a question of +the tribute which, by right of might, the Towaregs levy from +every <a name="page96"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +96</span>caravan that crosses the desert. +Sidi-Jalef-Sakertaf was pacified; and the enthusiasts went on +their way through sterile valleys and frowning defiles that would +have daunted the courage of any but a votary of science and +adventure.</p> +<p>They next arrived at Mount Tiska, which is six hundred feet in +height, and surrounded by numerous lesser cones. It forms a +kind of geological landmark; for the soil, hitherto so broken and +irregular, thenceforward becomes smooth and uniform, while rising +gradually, and the vast plain stretches far beyond the limit of +vision without anything to interrupt its arid monotony. A +two days’ journey brought our travellers to the well of +Afelesselez. It is utterly wanting in shade; only a few +clumps of stunted tamarisks grow on the sandy hillocks; but, +desolate as it is and uninviting, the caravans resort to it +eagerly, on account of its supply of fresh water.</p> +<p>Sand; stones; little ridges of quartzose limestone; granite +mixed with red sandstone or white; a few mimosas, at intervals of +one or two days’ march; abrupt pinnacles breaking the dull +level of the sandstones; dry and bushless valleys—such were +the features of the country through which Dr. Barth and his +companions wearily plodded. Herds of buffaloes, however, +are numerous; as is also, in the higher ground, the <i>Ovis +tragelaphis</i>.</p> +<p>On the 16th of August the travellers, while descending a rocky +crest covered with gravel, came in sight of Mount Asben. +The Asben or A’ir is an immense oasis, which has some claim +to be considered the Switzerland of the Desert. The route +pursued by Dr. Barth on his way to Agadez traversed its most <a +name="page97"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 97</span>picturesque +portion, where, almost every moment, the great mountain revealed +itself, with its winding gorges, its fertile basins, and its +lofty peaks.</p> +<p>Agadez is built on a plain, where it seems to lament that the +day of its prosperity has passed. At one time it was the +centre of a considerable commerce; but, since the close of the +last century, its population has sunk from sixty thousand to +seven or eight thousand souls. Most of its houses lie in +ruins; the score of habitations which compose the palace are +themselves in a deplorably dilapidated condition; of the seventy +mosques which it previously boasted only two remain. The +richer merchants shun the market of Agadez, which is now in the +possession of the Touats, and supported by small traders, who do +a little business in the purchase of millet when the price is +low.</p> +<p>The day after his arrival, Barth repaired to the palace, and +found that the buildings reserved for the sovereign were in +tolerably good repair. He was introduced into a hall, from +twelve to fifteen yards square, with a low daïs or platform, +constructed of mats placed upon branches, which supported four +massive columns of clay. Between one of these columns and +the angle of the wall was seated Abd-el-Kadir, the Sultan, a +vigorous and robust man of about fifty years old, whose grey robe +and white scarf indicated that he did not belong to the race of +the Towaregs. Though he had never heard of England, he +received Dr. Barth very kindly, expressed his indignation at the +treatment the caravans had undergone on the frontier of +A’ir, and, by-and-by, sent him letters of recommendation to +the governors of Kanó, Katséna, <a +name="page98"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 98</span>and +Daoura. Dr. Barth remained for two months at Agadez, and +collected a number of interesting details respecting its +inhabitants and their mode of life. Thus, he describes a +visit which he paid to one of its more opulent female +inhabitants. She lived in a spacious and commodious +house. When he called upon her, she was attired in a robe +of silk and cotton, and adorned with a great number of silver +jewels. Twenty persons composed her household; including +six children, entirely naked, their bracelets and collars of +silver excepted, and six or seven slaves. Her husband lived +at Katséna, and from time to time came to see her; but it +appears that she scarcely awaited his visits with the loving +expectancy of a Penelope. No rigid seclusion of women is +insisted upon at Agadez. During the Sultan’s absence, +five or six young females presented themselves at Dr. +Barth’s house. Two of them were rather handsome, with +black hair falling down their shoulders in thick plaits, quick +lively eyes, dark complexion, and a toilette not wanting in +elegance; but they were so importunate for presents, that Dr. +Barth, to escape their incessant petitions, shut himself up.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Barth rejoined his companions in the valley of +Tin-Teggana. On the 12th of December they resumed their +march, crossing a mountainous region, intersected by fertile +valleys, in which the Egyptian balanite and indigo flourished, +and finally emerging on the plain which forms the transition +between the rocky soil of the desert and the fertile region of +the Soudan—a sandy plain, the home of the giraffe and the +antelope leucoryx. By degrees it became pleasantly green <a +name="page99"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 99</span>with +brushwood; then the travellers caught sight of bands of +ostriches, of numerous burrows, especially in the neighbourhood +of the ant-hills, and those of the Ethiopian orycteropus, which +have a circumference of three yards to three yards and a half, +and are constructed with considerable regularity.</p> +<p>The wood grew thicker, the ground more broken, the ant-hills +more numerous. As the travellers descended an abrupt +decline of about one hundred feet, they found the character of +the vegetation entirely changed. Melons were abundant; the +dilon, a kind of laurel, dominated in the woods; then appeared an +euphorbia, a somewhat rare tree in this part of Africa, in the +poisonous juice of which the natives steep their arrows; +parasites were frequent, but as yet lacked strength and pith; in +a pool some cows were cooling themselves in the shades of the +mimosas that fringed its banks; the thick herbage flourishing +along the track impeded the progress of the camels, and against +the horizon were visible the fertile undulating meads of +Damerghue. Continuing their journey, they came upon a +scattered village, where, for the first time, they saw that kind +of architecture which, with some unimportant modifications, +prevails throughout Central Africa. Entirely constructed of +the stems of the sorghum and the <i>Asclepias gigas</i>, the huts +of Nigritiá have nothing of the solidity of the houses of +the A’ir, where the framework is formed of the branches and +trunks of trees; but they are incontestably superior in +prettiness and cleanliness. The traveller, in examining +them, is impressed by their resemblance to the cabins of the +aborigines of Latium, of which Vitruvius, amongst others, has +furnished a <a name="page100"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +100</span>description. More remarkable still are the +millstones scattered round the huts; they consist of enormous +panniers of reeds, placed on a scaffolding two feet from the +ground, to protect them from the mice and termites.</p> +<p>On their arrival at Tagilet, the travellers separated. +Mr. James Richardson undertook the road to Zindu, Overweg that to +Marádi, and Barth to Kanó. +Kúkáwa was named as the place, and about the 1st of +April as the date, of their reassembling. Our business here +is with Dr. Barth.</p> +<p>At Tasáwa he gained his first experience of a large +town or village in Negroland proper; and it made a cheerful +impression upon him, as manifesting everywhere the unmistakable +marks of the comfortable, pleasant sort of life led by the +natives. The courtyard, fenced with a hedge of tall reeds, +excluded to a certain degree the gaze of the passer-by, without +securing to the interior absolute secrecy. Then, near the +entrance, were the cool and shady “runfá,” for +the reception of travellers and the conduct of ordinary business; +and the “gída,” partly consisting entirely of +reed of the best wicker-work, partly built of clay in the lower +parts, while the roof is constructed only of reeds,—but +whatever the material employed, always warm and well adapted for +domestic privacy; while the entire dwelling is shaded with +spreading trees, and enlivened with groups of children, goats, +fowls, pigeons, and, where a little wealth has been accumulated, +a horse or a pack-ox.</p> +<p>Dr. Barth afterwards arrived at Katséna, a town of +considerable size, with a population of eight thousand +souls. It was formerly the residence of one of the <a +name="page101"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 101</span>richest and +most celebrated princes in Nigritiá, though he paid a +tribute of a hundred slaves to the King of Bornu as a sign of +allegiance.</p> +<p>For two centuries, from 1600 to 1800, Katséna appears +to have been the principal town in this part of the Soudan. +Its social condition, developed by contact with the Arabs, then +reached its highest degree of civilization; the language, rich in +form and pure in pronunciation, and the polished and refined +manners of the inhabitants, distinguished it from the other towns +of the Háusa. But a complete and pitiful change took +place when, in 1807, the Fulbi, raised to the highest pitch of +fanaticism by the preaching of the reformer, Othmán dan +Fódiye, succeeded in gaining possession of the town. +The principal foreign merchants then emigrated to Kanó; +the Asbenáwa also transferred their salt-market thither; +and Katséna, notwithstanding its excellent position and +greater salubrity, is now but of secondary importance as the seat +of a governor. Mohammed Bello, who held that post at the +time of Barth’s visit, either through capriciousness or +suspicion, was very desirous of sending him on to Sokoto, the +residence of the Emir. At first he employed persuasion, and +when that failed, resorted to force, detaining Barth a prisoner +for five days. However, the energy and perseverance of the +traveller overcame every difficulty; and, having obtained his +freedom, he directed his steps towards the celebrated commercial +entrepôt of the Central Soudan.</p> +<p>Kanó, as he says, was an important station for him, not +only from a scientific, but a financial point of view. +After the extortions of the Towaregs, and his <a +name="page102"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 102</span>long delay +in A’ir, he was entirely dependent upon the merchandise +which had been forwarded thither in advance. On his +arrival, he had to liquidate a debt which had risen to the large +amount of 113,200 kurdi; and he was much disheartened by the low +value set upon the wares which were his sole resource. +Lodged in dark and uncomfortable quarters, destitute of money, +beset by his numerous creditors, and treated with insolence by +his servant, his position in the far-famed African city, which +had so long occupied his thoughts and excited his imagination, +was the reverse of agreeable. Anxiety acted upon his +physical health, and a severe attack of fever reduced him to a +state of great weakness. Yet the gloomy colours in which he +naturally paints his own condition do not extend to his +description of Kanó. <i>That</i> is bright, vivid, +and graphic.</p> +<p>The whole scenery of the town—with its great variety of +clay houses, huts, and sheds; its patches of green pasture for +oxen, horses, camels, donkeys, and goats; its deep hollows +containing ponds overgrown with water-plants; its noble trees, +the symmetric gónda or papaya, the slender date-palm, the +spreading alléluba, and the majestic bombyx, or +silk-cotton tree; the inhabitants, gay in diversified costumes, +from the half-naked slave to the most elaborately dressed +Arab—forms an animated picture of a world complete in +itself; a strange contrast to European towns in external form, +and yet, after all, in social inequalities, in the difference of +happiness and comfort, activity and laziness, luxury and poverty, +exactly similar.</p> +<p>Here a row of shops is filled with articles of native and +foreign produce, with noisy buyers and <a +name="page103"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 103</span>sellers in +every variety of figure, complexion, and dress, yet all intent +upon gain, and endeavouring to get the advantage of each other; +there, a large shed, like a hurdle, full of half-naked, +half-starved slaves, torn from their quiet homes, from their +wives, husbands, parents, arranged in rows like cattle, and +staring with hopeless eyes upon the purchasers, wondering, +perhaps, into whose hands it would be their lot to fall. +How dark to them the mystery of life! In another part may +be seen all that can minister to human ease and comfort, and the +wealthy buying dainties and delicacies for his table, while the +poor man eyes wistfully a handful of grain. Here a rich +governor, dressed in silk and gaudy clothes, mounted upon a +spirited and richly caparisoned horse, is followed by a troop of +idle, insolent menials; there, a blind pauper gropes his way +through the restless, excited multitude, and fears at every step +to be trodden underfoot. Observe yonder a yard neatly +fenced with mats of reed, and provided with all the comforts +which the country affords; a clean, neat-looking cottage, with +nicely polished clay walls, a shutter of reeds placed against the +low, well-rounded door, to forbid abrupt intrusion on the privacy +of domestic life; a cool shed for the daily household work; a +fine spreading alléluba tree, affording a pleasant shade +in the noontide hours, or a stately gónda or papaya +lifting its crown of feather-like leaves on a slender, smooth, +and undivided stem, or the tall and useful date-tree, adding its +charm to the fair scene of domestic peace and comfort,—the +matron, in a clean black cotton gown wound round her waist, and +with her hair trimly dressed, busily preparing the meal for her +absent husband, or <a name="page104"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +104</span>spinning cotton, and at the same time urging the female +slaves to pound the corn; the children, naked and merry, playing +about in the sand, or chasing a straggling, stubborn goat; +earthenware pots and wooden bowls, cleanly washed, all standing +in order. Our survey also includes a +“máciná”—an open terrace of clay, +with a number of dyeing-pans, and people actively employed in +various processes of their handicraft: one man stirring the +juice, and mixing some colouring wood with the indigo in order to +secure the desired tint; another drawing a shirt from the +dye-pot, or suspending it to a rope fastened to the trees; and a +couple of men busily beating a well-dyed shirt, and singing the +while in good time and tune. Further on, a blacksmith with +rude tools that an European would disdain, is fashioning a +dagger, the sharpness of which will surprise you, or a formidable +barbed spear, or some implement of husbandry; beyond, men and +women turn an unfrequented thoroughfare to account by hanging up, +along the fences, their cotton thread for weaving; and, lastly, +close at hand, a group of loiterers idle away the sunny +hours.</p> +<p>Ever and anon comes upon the scene a caravan from +Gónja, with the much-prized kola-nut, chewed by all who +can spare as much or as little as “ten kurdi;” or a +caravan passes, laden with natron, bound for Núpa; or a +troop of Asbenáwa, going off with their salt for the +neighbouring towns; or some Arabs lead their camels, heavily +charged with the luxuries of the north and east, to the quarters +of the opulent; or a troop of gaudy, warlike-looking horsemen +dash towards the palace of the governor with news from some +distant province. Everywhere you see human life in its <a +name="page105"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 105</span>varied +forms, the brightest and the most gloomy closely mixed together, +as in life itself happiness and sorrow are never divided; every +variety of national form and complexion—the olive-coloured +Arab; the dark Kanuri, with his wide nostrils; the +small-featured, light, and slender Ba-Fillanchi; the broad-faced +Ba-Wángara; the stout, large-boned, and masculine-looking +Núpa female; the well-proportioned and comely +Ba-Haúshe woman.</p> +<p>The regular population of Kanó numbers about 30,000 +souls, but is raised to 60,000, from January to April, by the +influx of strangers. Its trade principally consists of +cotton stuffs sold under the form of tebi, a kind of blouse; +tenkédi, the long scarf or dark blue drapery worn by the +women; the zunie, a kind of plaid, very bright in colour; and the +black turban, worn by the Towaregs. At Kanó are +concentrated also the products of northern, eastern, and western +Africa, flowing thither through the channels of Mourzouk, Ghat, +Tripoli, Timbúktu, and the whole of Bornú.</p> +<p>Early in March the intrepid traveller resumed his journey, +across an open and pleasant country. At Zurrikulo he +entered Bornú proper. The beautiful fan-palm was +here the prevailing tree; but as Barth advanced, he met with the +kuka, or <i>Adansonia digitata</i>, and the landscape brightened +with leafiness, and soon he entered upon a pleasant tract of +dense green underwood. “The sky was clear,” he +says, “and I was leaning carelessly upon my little nag, +musing on the original homes of all the plants which now adorn +different countries, when I saw advancing towards us a +strange-looking person, of very fair complexion, richly dressed +<a name="page106"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 106</span>and +armed, and accompanied by three men on horseback, likewise armed +with musket and pistols. Seeing that he was a person of +consequence, I rode quickly up to him and saluted him, when he, +measuring me with his eyes, halted and asked me whether I was the +Christian who was expected to arrive from Kanó; and on my +answering him in the affirmative, he told me distinctly that my +fellow-traveller, Yakúb (Mr. Richardson), had died before +reaching Kúkáwa, and that all his property had been +seized. This sad intelligence deeply affected me; and, in +the first moment of excitement, I resolved to leave my two young +men behind with the camels, and to hurry on alone on +horseback. But as I could not reach Kúkáwa in +less than four days, and as part of the road was greatly infested +by the Tawárek (or Towaregs), such an attempt might have +exposed me to a great deal of inconvenience. Therefore, we +determined to go on as fast as the camels would allow +us.”</p> +<p>Four days later, and Dr. Barth saw before him the wall of +white clay which surrounds the capital of Bornú. He +entered the gate, and of some people assembled there inquired the +way to the sheikh’s residence. Passing the little +market-place, and following the dendal, or promenade, he rode +straight up to the palace which flanks the palace on the +east. The sheikh received him cordially, and provided him +with quarters closely adjoining the vizier’s house; these +consisted of two immense courtyards, the more secluded of which +enclosed, besides a half-finished clay dwelling, a spacious and +neatly built hut, which, he ascertained, had been specially +prepared for the reception and accommodation of the English +mission. <a name="page107"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +107</span>It taxed all Dr. Barth’s energy and perseverance +to obtain the restoration of Mr. Richardson’s property; but +he finally succeeded. He also obtained a loan of money on +the credit of the British Government, which enabled him to +satisfy his creditors, pay Mr. Richardson’s servants, and +provide for the prosecution of the labours which had been so +unhappily interrupted.</p> +<p>The capital of Bornú consists of two towns, each +surrounded by a wall: one, inhabited by the rich, is well built, +and contains some very large residences; the other is a labyrinth +of narrow streets of small and squalid houses. Between the +two towns spreads an area of about eight hundred yards each way, +which, throughout its length, is traversed by a great highway, +serving as a channel of intercommunication. This area is +largely peopled; and a picturesque aspect it presents, with its +spacious mansions and thatched huts, its solid walls of mud and +its fences of reeds, varying in colour, according to their age, +from the brightest yellow to the deepest black.</p> +<p>In the surrounding district are numerous little villages, +hamlets, and isolated farms, all walled. Every Monday a +fair is held between two of these villages, lying beyond the +western gate; to which the inhabitant of the province brings, on +the back of his camel or his ox, his store of butter and corn, +with his wife perched upon the top of the burden; and the +Yédiná, that pirate of Lake Tchad, who attracts our +admiration by the delicacy of his features and the suppleness of +his figure, his dried fish, flesh of hippopotamus, and whips made +of the animal’s leathery hide. Provisions are +abundant; but to lay in at one time a week’s supply is a +wearisome and troublesome task, <a name="page108"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 108</span>and a task all the more wearisome +and burdensome, because there is no standard money for buying and +selling. The ancient standard of the country, the pound of +copper, has fallen into disuse; and the currency partly consists +of “gábagá,” or cotton-strips, and +“kungóna,” or cowries. A small farmer, +who brings his corn to the market, will refuse cowries, however, +and will rarely accept of a dollar. The would-be purchaser, +therefore, must first exchange a dollar for cowries; then, with +the cowries, must buy a “kúlgu,” or shirt; and +in this way will be able at last to obtain the required quantity +of corn.</p> +<p>Provisions are not only abundant, but cheap, and the variety +is considerable. For corn,—wheat, rice, and millet; +for fruits,—ground-nuts, the bito, or fruit of the +<i>Balanites Ægyptiaca</i>, a kind of <i>physalis</i>, the +African plum, the <i>Rhamnus lotus</i>, and the dúm-palm; +for vegetables—beans and onions, and the young leaves of +the monkey-bread tree.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Dr. Barth had spent three weeks at Kúkáwa, when, +on the evening of the 14th of April, the Sheikh Omar and his +vizier departed on a short visit to Ngornu, and at their +invitation he followed next morning. The road thither was +marked with the monotony which distinguishes the neighbourhood of +the capital. At first, nothing is seen but the <i>Asclepias +gigas</i>; then some low bushes of cucifera; and gradually trees +begin to enliven the landscape. The path is broad and well +trodden, but generally consists of a deep sandy soil. There +are no villages along the road, but several at a little +distance. Two miles and a half from Ngornu the trees cease, +giving way to an <a name="page109"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +109</span>immense fertile plain where cereals are cultivated as +well as beans.</p> +<p>At Ngornu, the town of “the blessing,” our +traveller arrived about an hour after noon. The heat being +very great, the streets were almost deserted; but the houses, or +rather yards, were crowded, tents having been pitched for the +accommodation of the visitors. Except the sheikh’s +residence, scarcely a clay house was to be seen; yet the town +gave a general impression of comfort and prosperity, and every +yard was fenced with new “séggadé” +mats, and well shaded by leafy koma-trees, while the huts were +large and spacious.</p> +<p>Early next morning the indefatigable traveller started forth +on horseback to refresh himself with a view of Lake Tchad, which +he supposed to be at no great distance, and of which he indulged +the brightest visions. But no shining expanse of fair +waters greeted his eye; wherever he directed his gaze, he saw +only an endless grassy, treeless plain, stretching to the +farthest horizon. At length, riding through grass of +constantly increasing freshness and luxuriance, he reached a +shallow swamp, the irregular and deeply indented margin of which +greatly impeded his progress. After struggling for some +time to get clear of it, and vainly straining his eyes to +discover a shimmer of water in the distance, he retraced his +steps. Mentioning on his return the ill success he had met +with, the vizier undertook to send some horsemen to conduct him +along the shore as far as Káwa, whence he could cross the +country to Kúkáwa.</p> +<p>When the time came, however, the vizier’s promise was +represented by two horsemen only. With them <a +name="page110"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 110</span>Dr. Barth +started on his excursion, taking a north-east direction. +The broad grassy plain seemed to roll away to an immeasurable +distance, unrelieved by tree or shrub; not a living creature was +visible, and the hot rays of the sun fell all around like burning +arrows. After about half an hour’s ride, he reached +swampy ground, through which he and his companions forced their +horses, often up to the saddle. Thus they arrived on the +margin of a fine open sheet of water, fringed thickly with +papyrus and tall reed, from ten to fourteen feet high, among +which wound and interwound the garlands of a yellow-flowered +climbing plant, called “boibuje.” Turning to +the north, and still pushing onward through deep water and grass, +he made a small creek called Dímbebú, and caught +sight of a couple of small flat boats, each about twelve feet +long, and manned by a couple of men, who, on descrying the +stranger, pulled off from the shore. They were +Búdduma, or Yédiná, the pirates of the +Tchad, in search of human prey; and Dr. Barth hastened to warn of +their presence some villagers who had come to cut reeds for the +roofs of their huts, and evidently had not caught sight of their +enemies. He then continued his march. The sun’s +heat was intense, but a fresh cooling breeze blowing from the +lagoon rendered it endurable. Large herds of kelára, +a peculiar kind of antelope, started up as he advanced, bounding +swiftly over the rushes, and sometimes swimming on the silent +waters. They are like the roe in shape and size, with their +under parts white as snow. At another creek, which the lake +pirates sometimes use as a harbour, river-horses abounded, and +the air echoed with their snorting. <a +name="page111"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 111</span>This was +the easternmost period of Dr. Barth’s ride; turning then a +little west from north, he and his escort marched over drier +pasture-grounds, and, in about three miles, struck a deeply +indented and well-sheltered creek, called +Ngómaíen. Here the curiosity of the traveller +was rewarded by the sight of eleven boats of the +Yédiná. Each was about twenty feet long, +tolerably broad, with a low waist, and a high pointed prow. +They are made of the narrow planks of the fógo-tree, +fastened together with ropes from the dúm-palm, the holes +being stopped with bast.</p> +<p>Another ride, and Dr. Barth turned westward—a course +which brought him to Maduwári, a pleasant village, lying +in the shade of trees, where he resolved on halting for the +night. From its inhabitants, who belong to the tribe of the +Sagárti, he obtained much information respecting the +numerous islands that stud the surface of the lake. They +also told him that the open water begun one day’s voyage +from Káya, the small harbour of Maduwári, and is +from one to two fathoms deep. It stretches from the mouth +of the Sháry towards the western shore; all the rest of +the lake consisting of swampy meadow-lands, occasionally +inundated. Next morning, on resuming his journey, he was +charmed by the bright and gracious picture before him. +Clear and unbroken were the lines of the horizon, the swampy +plain extending on the right towards the lake, and blending with +it, so as to allow the mind that delights in wandering over +distant regions a boundless expanse to rove in—an enjoyment +not to be found in mountainous regions, be the mountains ever so +distant. Thus they travelled slowly northwards, while the +sun <a name="page112"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 112</span>rose +over the patches of water which brightened the grassy plain; and +on their left the village displayed its snug yards and huts, +neatly fenced and shaded by spreading trees. At +Dógoji he came upon a hamlet or station of +cattle-breeders, where a thousand head were collected; the +herdsmen being stationed on guard around them, armed with long +spears and light shields. Equidistant poles were fixed in +the ground, on which the butter was hung up in skins or in +vessels made of grass.</p> +<p>Turning to the eastward, Dr. Barth reached the creek +“Kógorani,” surrounded by a belt of dense +reeds, and was there joined by a Kánemma chief, named +Zaitchua, with five horsemen. The party rode on towards +Bolè, passing through very deep water, and obtained a view +of the widest part of the lake they had yet seen. A fine +open sheet of water, agitated by a light easterly wind, rippled +in sparkling waves upon the shore. A reedy forest spread +all around, while the surface was bright with aquatic plants, +chiefly the beautiful water-lily, or <i>Nymphoea lotus</i>. +Flocks of waterfowl of every description played about. At +length they reached Káwa, a large straggling village, +lying among magnificent trees, where Dr. Barth’s’ +excursion terminated; thence he returned to +Kúkáwa.</p> +<p>On the 7th of May he was joined there by Mr. Overweg, and the +two travellers immediately made their preparations for resuming +the work of exploration with which they had been charged by the +British Government. These were completed by the 29th of May +(1851), and the two travellers then set out for the southward, +accompanied by an officer of the <a name="page113"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 113</span>sheikh, and attended by a small +company of servants and warriors. A singular variety of +country greeted them as they moved forward: at first it was low +and swampy; then came a bare and arid soil, planted with +scattered tamarisks; next, a dense forest, partly inundated in +the rainy season, and, afterwards, a broad and fertile plain, +sprinkled with villages, and white with thriving crops of +cotton. This was the district of Uji, which comprises +several places of a considerable size. Thence they entered +upon a fine open country, a continuous corn-field, interrupted +only by pleasant villages, and shaded here and there by single +monkey-bread trees, or Adansonias, and various kinds of +fig-trees, with their succulent dark-green foliage, or large +fleshy leaves of emerald green. A fiumara, or water-course, +which rises near Aláwó, traverses the plain with +numerous curves and bends, and passing Dekùa, falls into +the Tchad. The travellers crossed it twice before they +reached Mabani, a large and prosperous town, with a population of +nine or ten thousand souls, which covers the sides and summit of +a hill of sand. From this point their road lay through +fertile fields, where they were greeted by the sight of the first +corn-crop of the season, its fresh and vivid green sparkling +daintily in the sunshine. Having crossed and recrossed the +fiumara, they ascended its steep left bank, which in some places +exhibited regular strata of sandstone. Here they passed a +little dyeing-yard of two or three pots, while several patches of +indigo flourished at the foot of the bank, and a bustling group +of men and cattle were gathered round the well. Villages +were seen lying about in every direction; and single cottages, +scattered about <a name="page114"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +114</span>here and there, gave evidence of a sense of +security. The corn-fields were most agreeably broken by +tracts covered with bushes of the wild gónda, which has a +most delicious fruit, of a fine creamy flavour, and of the size +of a peach, but with a much larger stone.</p> +<p>Mount Délabida marked the border line of a mountainous +region. After entering upon the district of Shamo, Barth +observed that millet became rare, and that the sorghum was +generally cultivated. Here he and his party were joined by +some native traders; for robbers haunted the neighbourhood, and +safety was to be found in numbers. At every step they came +upon evidences of the misfortunes which had swept and scathed the +country: traces of ancient cultivation and ruined huts; and thick +interwoven jungles, where the grass grew so high as to hide both +horse and rider. After three hours’ march through +this land of desolation, they arrived at what had once been a +considerable village, but was then inhabited only by a few +natives, recently converted to the religion of the +Crescent. As but a single hut could be found for the +accommodation of the whole company, Dr. Barth preferred to encamp +in the open air. But he had scarcely laid down to rest, +when a terrible storm arose, sweeping his tent to the ground, and +flooding his baggage with torrents of rain. To such +adventures is the daring traveller exposed!</p> +<p>Though they had embraced Islam, the natives wore no other +clothing than a strip of leather passed between the legs, and +even this seemed by some of them to be considered a +superfluity. The observer could not fail to remark their +harmonious proportions, their regular features, undisfigured by +tattooing, <a name="page115"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +115</span>and, in not a few cases, presenting no resemblance to +the negro type. The difference of complexion noticeable in +individuals presumably of the same race, was remarkable. +With some it was a brilliant black; with others a rhubarb colour, +and there was no example of an intermediate tint; the black, +however, predominated. A young woman and her son, aged +eight years, formed a group “quite antique,” and +worthy of the chisel of a great artist. The child, +especially, in no respect yielded to the ancient Discophorus; his +hair was short and curled, but not woolly; his complexion, like +that of his mother and the whole family, was of a pale or +yellowish red.</p> +<p>Re-entering the forest, Dr. Barth observed that the clearings +bore the imprints of the feet of elephants of all ages. A +wealth of flowers loaded the atmosphere with fragrant +incense. But the soil soon deteriorated; the trees were +nearly all mimosas, and nearly all of indifferent growth, with +here and there a large leafless Adansonia flinging abroad, as if +in despair, its gaunt gigantic arms; while the herbage consisted +only of single tufts of coarse grass, four or five feet +high. When things are at their worst they begin to mend; +and for the traveller there is no motto more applicable than the +old proverb, that it is a long lane which has no turning. +With intense delight Dr. Barth and his companions saw the +monotonously gloomy forest giving way to scattered clusters of +large and graceful trees, such as generally indicate the +neighbourhood of human labour. And they soon emerged upon +bright green meadow-lands extending to the base of the Wandala +mountain-range, which rose like a barrier of cloud upon the +horizon, from north to south. The <a +name="page116"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 116</span>highest +elevation of this range is about 3000 feet; its average elevation +does not exceed 2500 feet. Behind it, to a point of 5000 +feet above the sea, rises the conical mass of Mount Mendefi, +first seen by gallant Major Denham. The country now +gradually assumed a wilder aspect; rocks of sandstone and granite +projected on all sides, while, in front, a little rocky ridge, +densely crowded with bush and tree, seemed to form a <i>ne plus +ultra</i>. Suddenly, however, a deep recess opened in it, +and a village was seen, lying most picturesquely in the heart of +the rocks and woods. This was Laháula, where the +travellers rested for the night. Next day they reached Uba, +on the border of A’damáwa; A’damáwa, +described by Dr. Barth as “a Mohammedan kingdom engrafted +upon a mixed stock of pagan tribes—the conquest of the +valorous and fanatic Pállo chieftain, A’dáma, +over the great pagan kingdom of Fúmbiná.”</p> +<p>Here the camels greatly excited the curiosity of the +population; for they are rarely seen in A’damáwa, +the climate of which these animals are unable to endure for any +length of time. Still more vivid was the curiosity of the +governor and his courtiers, when they saw Dr. Barth’s +compass, chronometer, telescope, and the small print of his +Prayer-Book. The Fulbi, he says, are intelligent and +civilized, but prone to malice; they lack the good nature of the +real blacks, from whom they differ more in their character than +their colour.</p> +<p>At Bagma our travellers were struck by the size and shape of +the huts, some of them being from forty to sixty feet long, about +fifteen broad, and from ten to twelve feet high. They +narrowed above to a ridge, and were thatched all over, no +distinction being made between roof and wall. They are so +spaciously <a name="page117"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +117</span>constructed, in order to provide a shelter for the +cattle against the inclemency of the weather. The river +separates the village, which is inhabited entirely by +Mohammedans, into two quarters. “The news of a +marvellous novelty soon stirred up the whole place, and young and +old, male and female, all gathered round our motley troop, and +thronged about us in innocent mirth, and as we proceeded the +people came running from the distant fields to see the wonder; +but the wonder was not myself, but the camel, an animal which +many of them had never seen, fifteen years having elapsed since +one had passed along this road. The chorus of shrill +voices, ‘Gelóba, gelóba!’ was led by +two young wanton Púllo girls, slender as antelopes, and +wearing nothing but a light apron of striped cotton round their +loins, who, jumping about and laughing at the stupidity of these +enormous animals, accompanied us for about two miles along the +fertile plain. We passed a herd of about three hundred +cattle. Gradually the country became covered with forest, +with the exception of patches of cultivated ground.” +Through scenery of this interesting character, the travellers +pushed on to Mbtudi.</p> +<p>Next day their route laid through well-wooded and well-watered +pastures, and immense fields of millet and ground-nuts, which +here form as large a proportion of the food of the people as +potatoes do in Europe. Dr. Barth liked them very much, +especially if roasted, for nibbling after supper, or even as a +substitute for breakfast on the road. From Segero the +travellers proceeded to Sara’wu, and thence to +Béhur. Forest and cultivated land alternated with +one another to the margin of a little lake, lying in a belt of +tall thick <a name="page118"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +118</span>grass, where the unwieldy river-horse snorted +loud. The sky was dark with clouds, and a storm was +gathering, when the caravan entered the narrow streets of +Salléri. That night it obtained but scanty +accommodation, and everybody was glad to find the next morning +bright and cheerful, so that the march could be resumed. +Their course was directed towards the river +Bénuwé. The neighbourhood of the water was +first indicated by numerous high ant-hills, which, arranged in +almost parallel lines, presented a sufficiently curious +spectacle. To the north-west towered the insulated colossal +mass of Mount Atlantika, forming a conspicuous and majestic +object in the landscape. The savannas were now overgrown +with tall rank grass, and broken by many considerable pools, +lying in deep hollows; every year, in the rainy season, they are +under water. Crossing these low levels with some +difficulty, Dr. Barth arrived on the banks of the +Bénuwé. A broad and noble stream, it flowed +from east to west through an entirely open country. The +banks were twenty to thirty feet high; while, immediately +opposite to the traveller’s station, behind a pointed +headland of sand, the river Fáro, which has its source on +the eastern side of Mount Atlantika, came in with a bold sweep +from the south-east, and poured its tributary waters into the +Bénuwé. The Bénuwé, below the +point of junction, bends slightly to the north, runs along the +northern foot of Mount Bágelé, thence traverses the +mountainous region of the Báchama and Zina to +Hamárruwa and the industrious country of Korórofa, +until it joins the great western river of the Kwára, or +Niger.</p> +<p>The passage of the Bénuwé, which is here about +<a name="page119"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 119</span>eight +hundred yards wide, was safely accomplished in the native canoes, +nor did any mishap occur in the transit of the Fáro, which +measures about six hundred yards. The current of the +Fáro has a velocity of about five miles an hour; that of +the Bénuwé does not exceed three miles and a +half. By way of Mount Bágelé, and through the +rich low lands of Ribágo, the travellers repaired to Yola, +the capital of A’damáwa.</p> +<h3>II.</h3> +<p>Yola, the capital of A’damáwa, lies four degrees +to the south of Kuka, on the Fáro, in a marshy plain, +which presents nothing attractive to the eye of an artist. +Dr. Barth describes it as a large open place, consisting mainly +of conical huts, surrounded by spacious court-yards, and even by +corn-fields; only the houses of the governor and his brothers +being built of clay. When he entered it, Lowel, the +governor, was in his fields, and could not be seen; but on his +return the travellers proceeded to his “palace” to +pay their respects. They were not allowed an interview, +however, until the following day, and then it was anything but +satisfactory. The officer who had accompanied them from +Kuka took the opportunity of delivering certain despatches; and +as they proved displeasing to the governor, he immediately vented +his wrath upon Dr. Barth, accusing him of treacherous +intentions. The audience terminated in confusion, and next +day but one, Dr. Barth was ordered to leave Yola, on the pretence +that his sojourn there could not be allowed unless he obtained <a +name="page120"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 120</span>the +authorization of the Sultan of Sokoto. He was suffering +from fever, and the heat of the day was excessive, but at once +made preparations for departure. Sitting firmly in his +large Arab stirrups, and clinging to the pommel of his saddle, he +turned his horse’s head towards Bornú, and, though +he fainted twice, was soon invigorated by a refreshing breeze, +which opportunely rose with healing on its wings.</p> +<p>But he was really ill when he arrived at Kúkáwa, +and, unhappily, the rainy season had begun. During the +night of the 3rd of August, the storm converted his sleeping +apartment into a small lake, and his fever was seriously +aggravated. The pools which formed in every nook and corner +of the town were rendered pestiferous by the filth of all kinds +which stagnated in them. He ought to have withdrawn to some +healthier country, but, in order to pay the debts of the +expedition and prepare for new explorations, was compelled to +remain and sell the merchandise which had arrived in his +absence. He made all haste, however, to discharge this +duty; and when, early in September, the Government despatched a +body of the Welád Shinán—Arab mercenaries +whom they had enlisted—to reconquer the eastern districts +of the province of Kánem, he attached himself to the +expedition, accompanied by his fellow-traveller, Overweg.</p> +<p>In the course of this new journey they obtained another view +of Lake Tchad, under peculiar circumstances. It was about +seven o’clock in the morning. Far to their right, a +whole herd of elephants, arranged in almost military array, like +an army of rational beings, slowly proceeded to the water. +In front appeared the males, as was evident from their size, in +<a name="page121"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 121</span>regular +order; at a little distance followed the young ones; in a third +line were the females; and the whole were brought up by five +males of immense size. The latter, though the travellers +were riding along quietly, and at a considerable distance, took +notice of them, and some were seen throwing dust into the air; +but no attempt was made to disturb them. There were +altogether about ninety-six.</p> +<p>Barth and Overweg returned to Kúkáwa on the 14th +of November, but ten days afterwards they again sallied forth, +accompanying another warlike expedition, which had been ordered +to march against Mánderá. It presented, +however, few features of interest or importance. The +indefatigable pioneers were back again in Kúkáwa on +the 1st of February, 1852, and there they remained until the 1st +of March. Though crippled by want of means, enfeebled by +fever, and beset by a thousand difficulties, Dr. Barth resolved +on continuing his work of exploration, and, on the 17th of March, +entered into Bagirmi, a region never before visited by +Europeans.</p> +<p>Bagirmi forms an extensive table-land, with an inclination +towards the north, and an elevation of 900 to 1000 feet above the +sea-level. It measures about 240 miles from north to south, +and 150 from east to west. In the north lie some scattered +mountain ranges, which separate the two basins of Lake Fittri and +Lake Tchad. The chief products are sorghum, millet, +sesamum, poa, wild rice, haricot beans, water-melons, citron, and +indigo. Very little grain is cultivated. The +population numbers about 1,500,000 souls.</p> +<p>On reaching the broad stream of the Koloko, Dr. Barth found +that he was suspected of treacherous <a name="page122"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 122</span>designs against the throne of +Bagirmi, and the boatmen refused to ferry him across, unless he +obtained the Sultan’s permission. Resolved not to be +baffled on the threshold of his enterprise, he retraced his steps +for about two miles, then turned to the north-east, and at Mili +succeeded in effecting the passage of the river. The +country through which he advanced was fertile and well +cultivated; village succeeded village in an almost unbroken +series; here and there groups of natives issued from the thick +foliage; numerous herds of cattle were feeding in the rich green +water-meadows, and among them birds of the most beautiful +plumage, and of all descriptions and sizes, sported upon nimble +wing. The gigantic pelican dashed down occasionally from +some neighbouring tree; the marabout stood silent, with head +between its shoulders, like a decrepit old man; the large-sized +azure-feathered “dédegami” strutted proudly +along after its prey, the plotus, and extended its long +snake-like neck; and the white ibis searched eagerly for food, +with various species of ducks, and numerous other lesser birds, +in larger or smaller flights.</p> +<p>But an unexpected obstacle arrested his progress; an official +arrived with an intimation that he could not be allowed to +continue his advance without the formal consent of the supreme +authority. He therefore sent forward a messenger with +letters to the capital, and retraced his steps to Mili, to await +his return. He had not long to wait. The messenger +made his appearance on the following day, bearing a document with +a large black seal, which directed him to proceed to +Búgomán, a place higher up the river, until an +answer could be obtained from the Sultan, who was <a +name="page123"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 123</span>then absent +on a campaign in Gógomi. But on his arrival at +Búgomán, the governor refused to receive him, and +the unfortunate traveller was glad to find a resting-place at +Bákadá. There he had time and opportunity to +meditate on the vast numbers of destructive worms and ants which +afflicted the land of Bagirmi; especially a terrible large black +worm, as long as, but much bigger than, the largest of European +grubs, which, in its millions, consumes an immense proportion of +the produce of the natives. There is also an injurious +beetle, yellow as to colour, and half an inch as to length; but +the people of Bagirmi take their revenge upon this destroyer by +eating him as soon as he has grown fat at their expense. As +for the ants, both black and white, they are always and +everywhere a scourge and a calamity. Of the termites, or +so-called white ants, which, by the way, are not really ants, Dr. +Barth had unpleasant experience. As early as the second day +of his sojourn at Bákadá, he observed that they +were threatening his couch, which he had spread on a mat of the +thickest reeds, with total destruction. To circumvent their +devices, he elevated it upon three large poles; but in two +days’ time they had not only raised their entrenchments +along the poles to the very top, but had eaten through mat and +carpet, and accomplished much general depredation.</p> +<p>No reply arriving from the Sultan, Barth not unnaturally lost +patience, and decided on quitting the inhospitable Bagirmi, and +returning to Kúkáwa. But he was closely +watched; and on arriving at Mili, was arrested by order of the +governor, who took possession of his arms, his baggage, his +watch, his papers, his <a name="page124"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 124</span>compass, and his horse, and placed +him in charge of a couple of sentinels. Happily, while at +Bákadá he had made a powerful friend, who, making +his appearance at Mili, interfered on his behalf, obtained the +restoration of his property, and conducted him in person to +Másená, the capital. There he was lodged in a +clay house standing in an open courtyard, which was likewise +fenced by a low clay wall. The house contained an airy +front room, which he found very comfortable, and four small +chambers at the back, useful for stowing away luggage and +provisions.</p> +<p>Másená occupies a considerable area, the +circumference of which measures about seven miles; but only about +half this space is inhabited, the principal quarter being formed +in the midst of the town on the north and west of the +Sultan’s palace, while a few detached quarters and isolated +yards lie straggling about as outposts. Its most +distinctive feature is a deep trough-like bottom, running from +east to west, which in the rainy season is filled with water, in +the summer with verdure of the greatest luxuriance. To the +south of this hollow, or bedá, lies the principal quarter, +which, however, is by no means thickly inhabited. In the +centre stands the palace; which is simply an irregular cluster of +clay buildings and huts, surrounded by a wall of baked +bricks. Generally speaking, the appearance of the town was +one of decay and dilapidation; yet, as all the open grounds were +enlivened with fresh green pasture, it was not deficient in a +certain charm. There are no signs of industrial +activity. The market-place is rather small, and without a +single stall or shed. The chief feature of interest is the +bedá, which is bordered on the <a name="page125"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 125</span>south-west by picturesque groups of +dúm-palms and other trees of fine foliage; while at the +western end, as well as on the south-east, spreads a large tract +of market-gardens.</p> +<p>In general, the houses are well built, and the thatched roofs +are formed with care, and even with neatness; but the clay is not +of a good kind for building, and the clay houses afford so little +security from the rains, that most persons prefer to reside +during that part of the year in huts of straw and reed.</p> +<p>While waiting the Sultan’s arrival, Dr. Barth’s +time was chiefly occupied in defending himself against the +attacks of the large black ant (<i>Termes mordax</i>). One +day, in particular, he maintained a long and desperate encounter +with a host of these voracious little insects. In a thick +unbroken column, about an inch broad, they had marched over the +wall of the courtyard, and entering the hall where he abode both +day and night, advanced right upon the store-room. But his +couch being in their way, they immediately assailed his own +person, and compelled him to decamp. Assisted by his +servants, he then fell upon the bandits, killing all the +stragglers and foragers, and burning the main body of the army as +it proceeded on its way. But fresh legions arrived on the +scene of war, and it took a struggle of two hours’ duration +thoroughly to break up their lines, and put them to flight.</p> +<p>The insects seemed to have been attracted by the corn which +Dr. Barth had stored up. But it must be owned that, if +inconvenient in one respect, their attacks are beneficial in +another; for they destroy all kinds of vermin, mice +included. And while they thus act as the “scavengers +of the houses,” in many parts of <a +name="page126"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 126</span>Negroland +they also render service through their very greediness in +gathering what man would fain appropriate for himself. They +lay in such considerable stores of corn, that the poor natives +frequently dig out their holes in order to gain possession of +their supplies.</p> +<p>It was on the 3rd of July that the Sultan appeared before the +walls of his capital, escorted by about eight hundred +cavalry. At the head of the <i>cortége</i> rode the +lieutenant-governor, surrounded by a troop of cavaliers. +Then came the Barma, followed by a man carrying a spear of +ancient and peculiar shape, designed to represent the +“fetish,” or idol of Kénga-Matáya, the +original patrimony of the kings of Bagirmi. Next rode the +Fácha, or commander-in-chief, who is the second person in +the kingdom; and after him the Sultan himself, attired in a +yellow burnous, and mounted on a grey charger, the points of +which could hardly be seen owing to the amplitude of the +war-trappings that hung about him. Nor was the head of his +rider much more plainly visible, not only on account of the +horsemen gathered round him, but more particularly owing to two +umbrellas—one of green, the other of red—borne on +each side of him by a couple of slaves.</p> +<p>Six slaves, their right arms clad in iron, fanned the +magnificent prince with ostrich feathers attached to long poles, +while round about him were gathered a motley array of his +captains and courtiers, gay in burnouses of various colours, or +in shirts of black or blue. Behind them followed the +war-camel, bestridden by the drummer, Kodgánga, who made +the echoes resound with the clang of a couple of kettle-drums, +fastened on each side of the animal; and the charivari <a +name="page127"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 127</span>was swelled +by the exertions of three musicians, two of whom played upon +horns, and the third upon a bugle. Mention must be made of +the long train of the Sultan’s female slaves, or +favourites, forty-five in number, all mounted upon horseback, all +dressed from head to foot in black cloth, and all guarded by a +slave on either side. The procession was terminated by a +train of eleven camels, carrying the baggage.</p> +<p>A day or two afterwards, an officer of the Sultan demanded Dr. +Barth’s attendance at the palace. He hastened +thither; and being admitted into an inner courtyard, found the +courtiers sitting on either side of a door, which was protected +by screenwork made of very fine reeds. Being desired to sit +down, along with his companions, and ignorant whom he should +address, he asked in a loud voice if the Sultan +’Abdel-Kadir were present. A clear voice, from behind +the screen, answered that he was. When fully satisfied that +he was addressing the prince, he proceeded to offer his respects, +and present the compliments of the great and powerful British +Government, which desired to be on terms of unity with so +illustrious a prince. His speech, which he delivered in +Arabic, was translated by an interpreter, and received a +favourable reply. His presents also were accepted with +satisfaction, and the audience ended. Next day he had a +second audience, at which he expressed his desire to return to +Kúkáwa. After some slight delay, he obtained +the Sultan’s leave to depart, and was supplied with a camel +and two horsemen to assist him on his journey. Well pleased +with the result of his visit to Másená, after the +inauspicious circumstances which had attended its commencement, +he set out on his return to the capital <a +name="page128"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 128</span>of +Bornú, and arrived there in safety on the 21st of +August. He was glad to find Mr. Overweg in excellent +spirits, for liberal supplies had been forwarded by the British +Government, though looking physically weak and exhausted. +The sheikh received him with great cordiality, and he enjoyed a +degree of comfort and repose to which he had long been a +stranger.</p> +<p>His business, however, was to explore unknown countries, and +to open up new paths to the enterprise of commerce. +Considering it almost impossible to penetrate southward, on +account of the obstacles thrown in his way by the native princes, +he meditated a journey westward in the hope of reaching the +celebrated city of Timbúktu, at one time the centre of so +many extravagant legends. The fulfilment of his projects +was delayed by an unhappy calamity. During a short +excursion in the neighbourhood of Kúkáwa, Mr. +Overweg got wet, caught a chill, and was afterwards seized with a +violent fever, which carried him off in a few hours (September +27th). He died, a martyr to science, and one of the many +victims of African exploration, in his thirtieth year.</p> +<p>A delay of some weeks was the necessary result of this +melancholy event; but Barth, though left alone, was not to be +turned aside from the great object of all his labours. His +gaze was directed towards the Niger—towards the <i>terra +incognita</i> which lay between the route pursued by the French +traveller, Caillé, and the region in which Lander and +Major Clapperton had achieved so many important +discoveries. His preparations completed, he took final +leave of Kúkáwa on the 25th of November; and on the +9th of December had crossed the frontier of Háusa. +On the 12th <a name="page129"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +129</span>he directed his course towards the north-east, and the +mountain region of Múniyo. The road waved, +serpent-like, through a succession of valleys, the green sides of +which were covered with groves and villages. Múniyo +takes the form of a wedge, or triangle, the apex projecting +towards the desert. The home of a peaceful and industrious +population, who flourish under a mild and orderly government, it +presents an agreeable contrast to the neighbouring territories, +inhabited by nomads. Its rulers, men of courage and energy, +have not only been able to defend their country against the +attacks of the Babus, but to encroach upon the district of +Diggéra, which had submitted to the latter. The +chief of this independent province can bring into the field, it +is said, an army of 1500 horse and 9000 or 10,000 archers; and +his revenue amounts to 30,000,000 kurdi (about £6000) a +year, without counting the tax which he levies on the crops.</p> +<p>Barth diverged somewhat to the westward in order to visit +U’shek, the largest corn-producing district in western +Bornú; it is characterized by a curious alternation of +luxuriance and sterility. At the foot of a mountain lies a +barren, desolate tract, on the very threshold of which lies an +undulating country, bright with date-palms and tamarisks, with +crystal pools and rich grasses. Around the town of +U’shek spreads a glittering girdle of corn-fields, +onion-beds, cotton-fields, in various stages of +development. Here the labourer is breaking up the clods and +irrigating the soil; there, his neighbour is weeding out his +blooming crops. The vegetation everywhere is +abundant. The accumulation of refuse prevents you, <a +name="page130"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 130</span>however, +from gaining a general view of the village, which lurks in the +sheltering folds of the soil; but the main group of houses +surrounds the foot of an eminence, crowned by the habitation of +the chief. Observe that while the huts are made of reeds +and the stems of millet, the towers in which the grain is pounded +are constructed of clay, and ten feet in height.</p> +<p>Beyond U’shek stretches a sandy table-land, waving with +a dense growth of reeds, and intersected by fertile +valleys. Then comes a spur of the mountain-range which +rises in the south-west; an irregular and broken plain, carpeted +with grass and broom; a jungle of mimosas, dense thickets of +capparis, and at intervals small patches of cultivated +land. The climate is intensely hot; the very soil seems to +burn; and our traveller, feeling himself ill, was forced to +rest. During the night, a cold north-east wind covered him +and his followers with the feathery awns of the pennixtum; and +they rose in the morning in a condition of indescribable +uneasiness. The next night was also cold; but there was no +wind.</p> +<p>At Badámuni, the fertile fields are brightened with +springs, which feed a couple of lakes, connected by a +canal. Notwithstanding this channel of intercommunication, +one of these lakes is of fresh water; the other brackish, and +strongly impregnated with natron. It is noticeable that in +this region all the valleys and all the mountain-chains run from +north-east to south-west, and the direction of the two lakes is +the same. Their margin is fringed with papyrus, except that +at the point where the water turns brackish the papyrus is +succeeded by the kumba, the pith of which is edible. Dr. +Barth’s two attendants, born on <a name="page131"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 131</span>the shores of the Tchad, immediately +recognized this species of reed as growing in a similar manner at +the point where that great inland sea touches the basins of +nature that surround it. It is a curious circumstance that +while the lake of fresh water is of a bright blue, and calm and +smooth as a mirror, the other is green as the sea, and heaves to +and fro in constant commotion, rolling its foamy waves to the +beach, which they strew with marine weeds.</p> +<p>The town of Zindu is protected by a rampart and ditch. +Its aspect is remarkable: a mass of rock rises in the western +quarter; and outside the walls stony ridges run in all +directions, throwing forth a myriad crystal streams, which +fertilize the tobacco-fields, and secure for the immediate +neighbourhood an exceptional fertility. The landscape is +enlivened by frequent clumps of date-palms and by the huts of the +Touaregs, who conduct a brisk trade in salt. To the south +extends an immense piece of ground, utilized, at the time of Dr. +Barth’s visit, as a garden of acclimatization. It is +easy, let us say, to define the ground-plan of Zindu, but not to +depict the stir and movement of which it is the centre, limited +as that activity may be, compared with the feverish and +far-reaching life of the industrial centres of Europe. +Zindu has no other manufacture than that of indigo; nevertheless, +its commercial energy is so great that it may justly be termed +“the port of the Soudan.”</p> +<p>Here Dr. Barth received the welcome supply of a thousand +dollars, which, not to excite suspicion, had been carefully +concealed in a couple of sugar barrels. He was enabled, +therefore, to purchase the articles necessary for barter or gifts +in his expedition to <a name="page132"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 132</span>Timbúktu, such as red, white, +and yellow burnouses, turbans, cloves, cutlery, beads, and +looking-glasses; and on the 30th of January, 1853, he resumed his +march.</p> +<p>The country he had to traverse was the scene of incessant +warfare between the Fulbi and the independent tribes. At +the outset he met with some salt merchants from A’ir, whose +picturesque encampments would have delighted an artist’s +eye, but did not add to the security of the roads. He +arrived in safety, however, on the 5th of February, at +Kátséna, and took up his quarters in a residence +specially assigned to him. The house was spacious; but so +full of ants, that, having rested himself for an hour on a bank +of clay, he found that the freebooters had climbed the wall, +constructed covered galleries right up to his person, and +delivered a combined attack upon his shirt, in which they had +eaten large holes.</p> +<p>The governor of Kátséna gave our traveller a +courteous reception, and deigned to accept with evident +satisfaction the burnouses, cafton, cup, two loaves of sugar, and +pistol, which Dr. Barth offered him. The pistol gave him so +much pleasure that he asked for a second; and, of course, a +refusal was impossible. Thenceforth he ate and drank and +walked and slept with his two pistols in his belt, and terrified +everybody who approached him by snapping caps in their +face. It happened that, at this time, the ghaladima of +Sikoto, inspector of Kátséna, was in the town +collecting tribute. He was a frank and simple-natured man, +neither very generous nor very intelligent, but of benevolent +disposition and sociable character. Dr. Barth purchased +some silk and cotton stuffs from the <a name="page133"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 133</span>looms of Mepè and +Kanó, and being very anxious to pursue his journey, waited +for the ghaladima to set out, in order to enjoy the advantage of +his escort. It was on the 21st of March that this high +official, accompanied by our traveller, took his departure. +The governor attended them as far as the limits of his +jurisdiction, and they had a numerous guard; while, as a further +protection against mishaps, they steered to the south, instead of +to the west, in which direction war was raging.</p> +<p>It was the happy time of spring; a bloom was on the earth, and +a light and perfume in the air; nature put on her greenest +attire; the alleluba, the parkia, the cucifera, the bombyx rose +in masses of foliage. The country through which the +travellers rode was fair and fertile, populous and well +cultivated; the pastures echoed with the low of cattle; the +fields rejoiced in profuse crops of yams and tobacco. In +the district of Maja, cotton, indigo, potatoes were grown on a +very large scale. Beyond Kuruyá, a town of 5000 to +6000 souls, the fertility of the land increased, if such increase +were possible; the many-rooted banyan, or Indian fig-tree, +displayed its colossal splendour:—</p> + +<blockquote><p> “Irregularly +spread,<br /> +Fifty straight columns propped its lofty head;<br /> + And many a long depending shoot,<br /> + Seeking to +strike its root,<br /> +Straight, like a plummet, grew towards the ground;<br /> +Some on the lower boughs, which curved their way,<br /> + Fixing their bearded fibres, round and round,<br /> + With many a ring and wild contortion wound;<br /> + Some to the passing wind, at times, with sway<br /> + Of gentle motion +moving;<br /> +Others of younger growth, unmoved, were hung<br /> +Like stone-drops from the cavern’s fretted +height.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p><a name="page134"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +134</span>Bassiaparkia, sorghum, and millet were abundant. +But at Kulfi the travellers reached the limit which divides the +Mohammedans from the heathens—civilization (imperfect and +undeveloped, if you will, but not wholly without a respect for +law and order) and barbarism. As Dr. Barth advanced, he +seemed to pass from spring to winter; cultivation disappeared; +villages ruined and silent bore witness to the desolating work of +war; and it was only by the cattle browsing in the scanty +pastures that he knew the land was not entirely deserted. +At Zekka, a town of some importance, with wall and ditch, he +separated from the ghaladima, and, through a dense forest, pushed +forward to the ruins of Moniya. He had intended to halt +there, but an armed force had encamped at Moniya on the preceding +evening, and he retreated into the shelter of the forest until +the morning. A day’s march brought him to Zyrmi, a +considerable town, the governor of which was formerly chief of +the whole province of Zanfara.</p> +<p>On the 31st of March, he stood on the border of the +Gúndúmi Desert, of the passage of which Major +Clapperton has left so exciting a narrative. It is passable +only by a forced march. Dr. Barth began by striking too far +to the south, and lost valuable time in the midst of an +impervious jungle. Recovering the direct track, he marched +all that day, all that night, without seeing any sign of human +life, and until the middle of the following day, when he met some +horsemen who had been sent forward to meet him, with vessels of +water. Two miles further, and he could see the village +where the Emir Aliyú had pitched his camp; he was then at +war with the people of Gober. <a name="page135"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 135</span>For thirty hours he and his +followers had marched without a halt; they were completely spent, +and the men, in their absolute weariness, fell prostrate upon the +ground. The intrepid Barth rallied his energies; his +excitement dispelled the sense of fatigue; and he searched his +baggage for some valuable gift to the Emir, who was to depart on +the following day, for upon him and his favour the success of his +enterprise wholly depended. The day glided by, and he had +begun to despair of being admitted to an audience; but in the +evening the Emir sent him an ox, four fat sheep, and four hundred +parcels of rice, and a message to the effect that he awaited his +visit. It must be owned that some of these barbaric +potentates do things right royally!</p> +<p>Dr. Barth entered the august presence. The Emir +immediately seized him by the hand, made him sit down, and +interrupted him when he began to excuse himself for not having +visited Sokotó before he went to +Kúkáwa. His two requests, for the +Emir’s safe-conduct as far as Timbúktu, and a royal +letter guaranteeing the lives and property of Englishmen visiting +his territories, he received very favourably; affirming that his +sole thought was for the welfare of humanity, and, consequently, +he desired to promote the friendly intercourse of all +nations. Next day Barth had another interview, and offered +a second supply of presents. He describes the Emir as a +strongly built man, of average stature, with a round, full, but +not unpleasant face.</p> +<p>On the 4th of April, with the royal letter, of which he had +dictated the terms, and a hundred thousand kurdis which the +prince had generously sent to him <a name="page136"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 136</span>to defray his expenses during his +absence, he took up his residence at Vurno, the Emir’s +usual abode. The unsavoury condition of the town, which was +traversed by a <i>cloaca</i> more disgusting even than those of +Italy, surprised and shocked him. Outside the walls, the +Gulbi-n-rima formed several basins of stagnant water in the +middle of a plain, where the traveller’s camels sadly pined +for pasture. The frontiers of three provinces—Kebbi, +Adar, and Gober—meet in this arid plain, which, however, +after the rainy season, wears a completely different aspect.</p> +<p>The town became more and more deserted; daily its notables +departed to join the Emir; though, as a rule, these warriors +cared only for their own pleasure, and would sell their weapons +for a dram of kola-nut wine. In no part of Negroland did +Dr. Barth see less military ardour or more physical +depression. Meanwhile, he amused himself by collecting +topographical details, studying the history of the country, and +making excursions in the neighbourhood; among others to +Sokotó, on the river Bugga. It was not until the +23rd of April that the Emir returned to his capital, after an +expedition which, if not glorious, had been at least +successful. Always generous towards Dr. Barth, he had +invited him to meet him, and king and traveller went together to +the palace. On the same day, Barth made him a present of a +musical box, which appears to be the prize most eagerly coveted +by African potentates. The Emir, in his rapture, summoned +his grand vizier to see and hear the marvel; but the mysterious +box, affected by the climate and the length of the journey it had +undergone, refused to pour forth its melodious treasures. +However, after a day or two’s labour, Dr. <a +name="page137"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 137</span>Barth +succeeded in repairing it, and releasing its imprisoned streams +of music. Who shall describe the Emir’s excess of +joy? He proved the sincerity of his gratitude by +immediately giving Dr. Barth a commendatory letter to his nephew, +the chief of Gando, and the long-expected permission to +depart.</p> +<p>Leaving Vurno on the 8th of May, Dr. Barth reached Gando on +the 17th. It was the capital of another Fulbi chief, +scarcely less powerful than the Emir, whose protection was of the +greatest importance to the traveller, because both banks of the +Niger were within his territory. It was not obtained +without persevering effort—and many gifts, besides frequent +bribes to an Arab consul, who had contrived to make himself +indispensable to the feeble prince.</p> +<p>On the 4th of June our indefatigable explorer entered the deep +valleys of Kebbi, which, in the rainy season, are converted into +extensive rice-fields. At Kombara, the governor hospitably +sent him all the constituents of a first-class Soudanian repast, +from the sheep to the grains of salt and the Dodua cake. +Gaumaché, formerly a thriving town, is now a village of +slaves. A similarly fatal change has passed over Yara; +formerly rich and industrious, rank weeds now grow in its silent +streets. But life and death lie cheek by jowl in these +fertile regions; and to the ruined towns and deserted villages +immediately succeed prolific rice-fields, shaded by clumps of +trees.</p> +<p>The whole country was overshadowed by the thunder-clouds of +war; yet the traveller passed continuously through plantations of +yams, and cotton, and papyrus, whose fresh green foliage waved +above the walls. He halted at Kola, where the governor +could <a name="page138"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +138</span>dispose of seventy matchlocks and the men who handled +them; an important personage in the disturbed condition of the +country, whom it was politic to visit. The sister of this +lord of warriors presented Dr. Barth with a fine fat +goose—an addition to his dietary which rejoiced him +greatly. As he approached Jogirma, the three sons of its +chief came forth to salute him in their father’s +name. It proved to be a much more considerable town than +the traveller had expected, and the palace was a spacious and +even imposing building, in its architecture recalling the +characters of the Gothic style. The population numbered +seven to eight thousand souls, whom civil discord had reduced to +a pitiful extremity. It was with no little difficulty that +Dr. Barth obtained even a supply of millet.</p> +<p>On the 10th he entered a beautiful forest, where the air was +heavy with the sweet odours of flowering trees; but the place is +noted for its insalubrity. Dr. Barth was compelled to +remain there for twenty-four hours, one of his camels having gone +astray; and this circumstance appeared so extraordinary, that the +neighbouring peasants were in the habit of referring to him as +“the man who passed a whole day in the deadly +desert.”</p> +<p>On a quadrangular eminence, about thirty feet high, in the +valley of Fogha—an eminence built up of refuse—stands +a village with some resemblance to the ancient town of +Assyria. The inhabitants extract salt from the black mud +out of which their little hillock rises. There are other +villages of a similar character. The condition of the +population is most wretched; they suffer continually from the +forays of the robbers of Dendina.</p> +<p><a name="page139"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 139</span>After +a march of two or three miles over a rocky soil, sprinkled with +bushes and brushwood, Dr. Barth, with intense satisfaction, +caught the glimmer of water, as if the sun were lighting up a +broad mirror, and rapidly pushing forward, came, in an +hour’s time, to Say, a ferry on the great river of the +Soudan—the river which has divided with the Nile the +curiosity of geographers, and attracted the enterprise of the +adventurous; the river which, perhaps, surpasses the Nile in its +promise of future commercial industry; the river which we +associate with the names of so many heroic travellers, from Mungo +Park to Cameron,—the Niger.</p> +<h3>III.</h3> +<p>The Niger—all the various names of which (Joliba, Mayo, +Eghirrau, Isa, Kuara, Baki-a-rua) signify one and the same thing, +<i>the River</i>—is about seven hundred yards broad at the +Say ferry, and flows from north-north-east to south-south-west +with a velocity of three miles an hour. The left bank has +an elevation of about thirty feet; the right bank is low, and +crowned with a town of considerable size. The traffic is +incessant; Fulbis and Sourays, with their asses and oxen, +continually pass to and fro. The boats in use are +constructed of two hollow trunks of trees, fastened together, and +measure a length of forty feet and a breadth of four feet and a +half. With feelings of a mingled character Dr. Barth +crossed this stately river, the exploration of which has +necessitated the sacrifice of so many noble lives, and entered +the busy town of <a name="page140"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +140</span>Say. Its walls form a quadrilateral of fourteen +hundred yards; the houses of the inhabitants, all built of reeds +except the governor’s, are scattered in groups over the +area they enclose. In the rainy season, a hollow or valley, +which cuts across it from north to south, is filled with water, +which impedes communication, and renders the place +insalubrious. When the river is flooded, the town is +entirely inundated, and all its inhabitants are compelled to +migrate. The market of Say is not well provided: the supply +of grain is small, of onions <i>nil</i>, of rice <i>nil</i>, +though the soil is well adapted to their cultivation; of cotton, +however, there is always a large quantity; and Say will prove an +important position for Europeans as soon as the great river route +of Western Africa begins to be utilized.</p> +<p>Dr. Barth was told by the governor—who had the manners +of a Jew, but was evidently born of a slave-mother—that he +should welcome with joy a European vessel bringing to the town +the many articles its inhabitants needed. He was astonished +to find that the traveller was not a trader; and believing that +only some very powerful motive could induce any man to undertake +such an expedition, he grew alarmed at the possibility of +treacherous and insidious designs, and requested him to leave the +place. Dr. Barth was by no means unwilling, and on the +following day left behind him the Niger, which separates the +explored regions of Negroland from the unexplored, and eagerly +directed his course towards the mysterious zone which stretched +before him.</p> +<p>He had crossed the low swampy island occupied by the town of +Say, and the western branch of the river, <a +name="page141"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 141</span>at that +season entirely dry, when a great storm of thunder and rain broke +upon him, and his progress was arrested by the rolling clouds of +sand which the wind accumulated in his path. After a halt +of three hours his march was resumed, though the soil was flooded +with water to a depth of several inches. The country +through which he passed had been colonized by the Sourays; it is +a dependency of the province of Guinea, and the natives were at +war both with the colonists and the Fulbi. Thence he +entered a well-cultivated district, where the Fulbi, who regard +the cow as the most useful member of the animal world, breed +large herds of cattle. The scenery was varied by thickets +of mimosas, with here and there a baobab or a tamarisk. +More attractive to the traveller, because more novel, were the +numerous furnaces, six or seven feet high, used for casting +iron.</p> +<p>The ground broke up into great irregularities; ridges of rock +ran in all directions; formations of gneiss and mica schist +predominated, with rare and beautiful varieties of granite. +There, through banks of twenty feet in height, picturesque and +rocky, flowed the deep waters of the Sirba. To effect the +passage, Dr. Barth’s followers could obtain only some +bundles of reeds; the chief and all the inhabitants of the +village sitting calmly on the bank, and watching their operations +with lively interest. The men had expressive countenances, +with effeminate features; long plaited hair, which fell upon the +shoulders; a pipe in their mouths; and, for attire, a blue shirt +and wide blue trousers. The women were dumpy and ill +proportioned; they wore numerous collars, and pearls in their +ears; their bosom and legs were naked.</p> +<p><a name="page142"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +142</span>Another storm overtook the travellers, and converted +the jungles through which they wound their way into a wide +expanse of water. The solitariness of the land was broken +at one point by a village, charmingly enclosed within a quickset +hedge; fields of maize were succeeded by a tract of forest; then +they entered a populous district, where the loaded camels +laboured heavily through the clayey soil. At Sibba, where +the governor, standing at the gate, was explaining to his people +certain verses of the Koran, Dr. Barth was handsomely lodged in a +hut newly built, with walls excellently polished, and quite an +attractive and refreshing appearance. But, in life, there +is always a flavour of wormwood in the cup of joy; appearances +are proverbially deceitful; and Dr. Barth’s beautiful abode +proved to be a nest of ants, which committed wholesale +depredations on his baggage.</p> +<p>The day after his arrival chanced to be the last of the great +Mohammedan feast of the Ramadan. That it was to be a day of +festival was announced at earliest dawn by the sound of merry +music; the Fulbi streamed forth from their houses, clad in white +chemises, as a sign of the white purity of their faith; and the +governor paraded through the town at the head of a +<i>cortége</i> of forty horsemen. As the cadi showed +an inclination to represent Dr. Barth in the unwelcome capacity +of a sorcerer, he deemed it prudent to distribute a largess among +the people of the procession.</p> +<p>He arrived at Doré, the chief town of Libtako, on the +12th of July. The soil is dry, and troops of gazelles +frolic about the arid plain which borders on <a +name="page143"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 143</span>the +market-place. The market, on the occasion of Dr. +Barth’s visit, was frequented by four or five hundred +persons, who were buying or selling salt, and cotton stuffs, and +copper vessels, and corn, and kola-nuts, and asses. The +inhabitants of Doré are partial to ornaments made of +copper; and Dr. Barth noticed two young girls wearing in their +hair a copper device of a horseman, sword in hand and pipe in +mouth. The pipe, be it observed, is in great request among +the Sourays, who seem to be of the opinion of Lord Lytton, that +“he who doth not smoke hath either known no great griefs, +or refused himself the softest consolation, next to that which +comes from heaven.”</p> +<p>Beyond Doré the country was a network of rivers and +morasses. Buffaloes were exceedingly numerous. A +venomous fly, very rare to the east of the Soudan, seriously +annoyed Dr. Barth’s cattle. It was the wet season; +rain descended perpetually, as if the floodgates of heaven had +been opened, and water was everywhere—in front, in rear, on +either side; water, water, water! For quiet English +gentlemen, living at home at ease, or occasionally indulging in a +railway journey of a few hundred miles, in a comfortable +carriage, through fields well cultivated and well drained, where +rivers seldom break their bounds, or if they do, never accomplish +greater injury than the overflowing of a green meadow or two, it +is almost impossible to conceive the difficulty, and even danger, +of traversing the African plains in the rainy season, of +conveying heavy baggage through leagues upon leagues of swamps, +which the unloaded camel finds it laborious to cross. More +than once Dr. Barth was afraid that his horse, in spite of its +robust vigour, <a name="page144"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +144</span>would fail to extricate its limbs from the deep mud, +and sink with its rider in the slough. So tremendous are +the rains, that in a single night they have been known to sweep +away the fourth part of a large village, and in one house eleven +goats have perished.</p> +<p>Hitherto Dr. Barth had maintained his quality as a Christian; +but on entering Dalla, a province belonging to the fanatical +chief of Masina, who would never have permitted “an +infidel” to traverse his territories, Dr. Barth thought it +advisable to assume the character of an Arab. But a dispute +which he had with his host, respecting a pack of dogs that showed +a decided unwillingness to give place to a stranger, indicated no +great religious fervour on the part of the population. Good +Mohammedans have no liking for the canine race. The Fulbi +will not employ them even as guides for their cattle, which they +direct by the voice. All the dogs were black; the poultry +were black and white. Dr. Barth observed that the crops +suffered greatly from the ravages of a large black worm, which he +had not met with since his expedition into Bagirmi.</p> +<p>On the 5th of August he entered into a region of swamp and +morass, and he was glad when, to relieve the monotony of the +landscape, he caught sight of the picturesque Souray villages and +the fantastic outline of the chain of the Hombori +mountains. The various forms of this singular range, none +of the peaks of which rise more than eight hundred feet above the +level of the plain, can hardly be imagined; they irresistibly +attract the traveller’s eye. On a gentle slope, +composed of masses of rock, is built a perpendicular wall, the +terraced summit of which is <a name="page145"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 145</span>inhabited by a native race who have +ever maintained their independence. That these heroic +hillmen sometimes descend from their fastnesses is shown by their +flocks of sheep and crops of millet. Starting from this +point, a twofold range of remarkable crests extends along the +plain, with a curious similitude to the ruins of mediæval +castles.</p> +<p>Refused admission at Boná, and afraid to enter Nuggera, +well known to be a hot-bed of fanaticism, Dr. Barth solicited the +hospitality of some Towaregs, who were encamped in the +neighbourhood. Their chief, a man of agreeable physiognomy, +with fine features and a fair complexion, placed one of his huts +at the traveller’s disposal, and sent him some milk and a +sheep ready cooked. Next day, his tents of canvas figured +in the midst of those of his host, and he was besieged by a +number of very stout ladies, all importunate for gifts. At +Bambara, a considerable agricultural centre, surrounded by the +canals and affluents of the Niger, he resided for several +days. It is situated upon a backwater (mariyet) of the +river, which, at the time of Barth’s visit, was almost +dry. In the ordinary course of things, it ought, in three +weeks, to be crowded with boats, going to Timbuktú by +Oálázo and Saráyamó, and to +Dirá by Kanima. The prosperity of the town depends, +therefore, on the rains; and as these had not begun, the whole +population, with the Emir at their head, implored the pretended +Arab doctor, whom they chose to regard as a great magician, to +exercise his powers to obtain from the skies a copious +benediction. Dr. Barth eluded the request for a formal +ceremony, but expressed a hope that Heaven would listen to wishes +so <a name="page146"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 146</span>very +reasonable. As it happened, there was a slight fall of rain +next day, which drew from the inhabitants the sincerest +gratitude; but, for all that, Dr. Barth was very glad to put some +distance between himself and Bambara.</p> +<p>On the 1st of September, at Saráyamó, Dr. Barth +embarked on one of the branches of the Niger, and sailed towards +Timbuktú. The stream was about a hundred yards wide, +and so thick with aquatic plants that the voyagers seemed to be +gliding over a prairie. Moreover, in its bed the asses and +horses obtained the chief part of their sustenance. In +about two miles and a half they entered open water, and the +boatmen, whose songs had rung the praises of the Julius +Cæsar of Negroland, the Sultan Mohammed ben Abubakr, +carried them, from winding to winding, between banks clothed with +cucifers, tamarinds, and rich grasses, on which sometimes cattle +were feeding, and sometimes the gazelle. The presence of +alligators was a sign that they approached a broader water, and +the channel suddenly widened to two hundred yards; its banks +alive with pelicans and other water-birds, while men and horses +went to and fro. The curves and bends of the stream +increased, and the banks assumed a more defined and regular +formation; wider and wider became the water-way, until it reached +three hundred and forty yards. Some fires shone out against +the evening shadows. At the bottom of a little creek +clustered a little village. In no part of the course could +any current be discerned; it was a kind of lagoon which the +voyagers were crossing, and sometimes the wave flowed in one +direction, sometimes in another. After two centuries of +war, its shores, once so <a name="page147"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 147</span>animated, have sunk into silence; +and Gakovia, Sanyara, and many other villages have ceased to +be. There, on the edge of the bank, towered aloft a clump +of graceful trees, the haunt of numerous bees; here, a patch of +greensward brightened with the colours of many blossoms. +The river now flowed from south-west to north-east, with a noble +expanse of six hundred yards; its majestic flood rolling like a +volume of silver in the moonlight, with the reflection of stars +sparkling thickly on the crests of its waves.</p> +<p>After a pilgrimage of eight months’ duration, Dr. Barth +arrived at Kabara, the river-port of Timbuktú; and was +lodged in a house on the highest ground, which contained two +large and several small rooms, and a first floor. The inner +court was occupied by a numerous and varied assortment of sheep, +ducks, pigeons, and poultry. At early dawn, on the day +after his arrival, our traveller, almost suffocated, left his +room; but he had scarcely begun his walk before a Towareg chief +interrupted him, and demanded a present. Receiving a prompt +refusal, he coolly announced that, in his quality as a bandit, he +could do him a good deal of harm. Dr. Barth, in fact, was +<i>hors la loi</i>, and the first wretch who suspected him of +being a Christian might slay him with impunity. He +succeeded, however, in getting rid of the Towareg. +Meanwhile, the house was crowded with visitors from +Timbuktú, some on foot, some on horseback, but all wearing +blue robes, drawn close to the figure by a drapery, with short +breeches and peaked straw hats. All carried lances, while +some had swords and guns; they seated themselves in the +courtyard, overflowed the chambers, staring at one another, and +<a name="page148"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 148</span>asking +each other who this stranger might be. In the course of the +day, Dr. Barth was “interviewed” by fully two hundred +persons. In the evening, a messenger whom he had despatched +to Timbuktú returned, accompanied by Sidi Alawat, one of +the Sultan’s brothers. Dr. Barth confided to him the +secret of his Christian profession, but added that he was under +the special protection of the sovereign of Stamboul. +Unfortunately, he had no other proof of his assertion than an old +firman dating from his former residence in Egypt; the interview, +however, passed off very agreeably.</p> +<p>On the following day, they crossed the sand-hills in the rear +of Kabara; the yellow barrenness of the country contrasting +vividly with the fertility of the verdurous borders of the +river. It is, indeed, a desert, infested by roving bands of +murderous Towaregs. Such is the well-known insecurity of +the route, that a thicket, situated midway, bears the significant +name of “It does not hear”—that is, it is deaf +to the cries of a victim. To the left stands the tree of +Wely-Salah, a mimosa which the natives have covered with rags in +the hope that the saint will replace them by new clothes. +As they drew near Timbuktú, the sky clouded over, the +atmosphere was full of sand, and the city could scarcely be seen +through the rubbish surrounding it. A deputation of the +inhabitants met Dr. Barth, and bade him welcome. One of +them addressed him in Turkish. He had almost forgotten the +language, which, of course, in his character of a Syrian, he +ought to have known; but he recalled a few words with which to +frame a reply, and then avoided awkward questions by spurring his +horse and <a name="page149"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +149</span>entering the city. The streets were so narrow, +that not more than two horsemen could ride abreast; Dr. Barth was +astonished, however, by the two-storied houses, with their +ornamented façades. Turning to the west, and passing +in front of the Sultan’s palace, he arrived at the house +which had been allotted for his accommodation.</p> +<p>He had attained the goal of his wishes; he had reached +Timbuktú; but the anxieties and fatigue of his journey had +exhausted him, and he was seized with an attack of fever. +Yet never had he had greater need of his energy and +coolness. A rumour had already got abroad that a Christian +had obtained admission into the city. The Sultan was +absent; and his brother, who had promised his support, was +sulking because he had not received presents enough. On the +following day, however, the fever having left him, Barth received +the visits of some courteous people, and took the air on the +terrace of his lodging, which commanded a view of the city. +To the north could be seen the massive outlines of the great +mosque of Sankora; to the east, the tawny surface of the desert; +to the south, the habitations of the Ghadami merchants; while the +picture gained variety from the presence of straw-roofed huts +among houses built of clay, long rows of narrow winding streets, +and a busy market-place on the slope of the sand-hills.</p> +<p>A day or two later, there were rumours of a meditated attack +upon his residence, but his calm and intrepid aspect baffled +hostile designs. The sheikh’s brother made an attempt +to convert him, and defied him to demonstrate the superiority of +his religious principles. With the help of his pupils, he +carried on <a name="page150"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +150</span>an animated discussion; but Dr. Barth confuted him, and +by his candour and good sense secured the esteem of the more +intelligent inhabitants. A fresh attack of fever supervened +on the 17th; his weakness increased daily; when, at three +o’clock in the morning of the 26th, a blare of instruments +and a din of voices announced the arrival of the sheikh, El +Bakay, and his warm welcome to the stranger dispelled his pains +and filled him with a new vigour. He strongly censured his +brother’s ungracious conduct; sent provisions to Barth, +with a recommendation to partake of nothing that did not come +from his palace; and offered him his choice between the various +routes that led to the sea-coast. Could he have foreseen +that he was fated to languish eight months at Timbuktú, +Dr. Barth thinks that he could not have supported the idea; but, +happily, man never knows the intensity or duration of the +struggle in which he engages, and marches courageously through +the shadows which hide from him the future.</p> +<p>Ahmed El Bakay was tall of stature and well proportioned, with +an open countenance, an intelligent air, and the bearing and +physiognomy of a European. His complexion was almost +black. His costume consisted of a short black tunic, black +pantaloons, and a shawl bound negligently round his head. +Between him and Dr. Barth a cordial understanding was quickly +formed and loyally maintained. He spoke frequently of Major +Laing, the only Christian whom he had ever seen; for, thanks to +the disguise assumed by the French traveller, Caillé, no +one at Timbuktú was aware that he had at one time resided +in their city.</p> +<p>Timbuktú is situated about six miles from the <a +name="page151"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 151</span>Niger, in +lat. 18° N. Its shape is that of a triangle, the apex +of which is turned towards the desert. Its circuit at the +present time is about three miles and a half; but of old it +extended over a much larger area. It is by no means the +wealthy, powerful, and splendid city which was dreamed of in the +fond imaginations of the early travellers. Its streets are +unpaved, and most of them narrow. There are a thousand +houses clay-built, and, in the northern and north-western +suburbs, some two hundred huts of reeds. No traces exist of +the ancient palace, nor of the Kasba; but the town has three +large and three small mosques, and a chapel. It is divided +into seven quarters, inhabited by a permanent population of +thirty thousand souls, which is increased to thirty-five or forty +thousand from November to January, the epoch of the +caravans. Founded early in the twelfth century by the +Towaregs, on one of their old pasture-grounds, Timbuktú +belonged to the Souray in the first half of the fourteenth. +Recovered, a century later, by its founders, it was snatched from +them by Sami Ali, who sacked it, then rebuilt it, and drew +thither the merchants of Ghadami. As early as 1373 it is +marked upon the Spanish charts, not only as the entrepôt of +the trade in salt and gold, but as the scientific and religious +centre of the Western Soudan; and exciting the cupidity of Mulay +Ahmed, it fell, in 1592, with the empire of the Askias, under the +sway of Marocco. Down to 1826 it remained in the hands of +the Ramas, or Maroccan soldiers settled in the country. +Next came the Fulbi; then the Towaregs, who drove out the Fulbi +in 1844. But this victory, by isolating Timbuktú on +the border of the river, led to <a name="page152"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 152</span>a famine. Through the +intervention of El Bakay, however, a compromise was effected in +1848; the Towaregs recognized the nominal supremacy of the Fulbi, +on condition that they should keep no garrison in the city; the +taxes were to be collected by two cadis, a Souray and a Fulbi; +and the administration, or rather the police, was entrusted to +two Souray magistrates, controlled simultaneously by the Fulbi +and the Towaregs, between whom was divided the religious +authority, represented by the sheikh, a Rama by origin.</p> +<p>Dr. Barth’s residence in Timbuktú was a source of +intense dissatisfaction to some of the ruling spirits. Even +in the sheikh’s own family it led to grave dissensions; and +many demanded that he should be expelled. El Bakay remained +firm in his support, and, to protect the life of his visitor, +moved him to Kabara. Dr. Barth speaks in high terms of this +liberal and enlightened man, and of the happiness of his domestic +circle. Europe itself could not produce a more affectionate +father or husband; indeed, Dr. Barth hints that he yielded too +much to the wishes of his august partner.</p> +<p>Week after week, the storms of war and civil discord raged +more and more furious; the traveller’s position became +increasingly painful. His bitterest enemies were the +Fulbi. They endeavoured to drag him from the sheikh’s +protection by force, and when this failed, had recourse to an +artifice to get him into their power. The Welád +Shinan, who assassinated Major Laing, swore they would kill +him. On the 27th of February, 1854, the chief of the Fulbi +again intimated to the sheikh his request that Barth should be +driven from the country. The sheikh peremptorily <a +name="page153"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +153</span>refused. Then came a fresh demand, and a fresh +refusal; a prolonged and angry struggle; a situation more and +more intolerable; while commerce suffered and the people were +disquieted by the quarrels of their rulers. So it came to +pass that, on the night of the 17th of March, Sidi Mohammed, +eldest brother of El Bakay, beat the drum, mounted his horse, and +bade Dr. Barth follow him with two of his servants, while the +Towaregs, who supported them, clashed their bucklers together, +and shouted their shrill war-cry. He found the sheikh at +the head of a numerous body of Arabs and Sourays, with some +Fulbi, who were devoted to him. As might be expected, Dr. +Barth begged that he might not be the cause of any bloodshed; and +the sheikh promised the malcontents that he would conduct the +obnoxious Christian beyond the town. He encamped on the +frontier of the Oberay, where everybody suffered terribly from +bad food and insects.</p> +<p>At length, after a residence of thirty-three days on the creek +of Bosábango, it was decided that the march should be +begun on the 19th of April. On the 25th, after having +passed through various encampments of Towaregs, they followed the +windings of the Niger, having on their left a well-wooded +country, intersected by marshes, and enlivened by numerous +pintados. Then they fell in with the valiant Wughduga, a +sincere friend of El Bakay, and a magnificent Towareg warrior, +nearly seven feet high, of prodigious strength, and the hero of +deeds of prowess worthy of the most famous knight of the Table +Round. Under his escort Dr. Barth reached Gogo—in the +fifteenth century the flourishing and famous capital of the +Souray empire, <a name="page154"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +154</span>now a small and straggling town with a few hundred +huts. Here he took leave of his kind and generous +protector; and, with an escort of about twenty persons, recrossed +to the right bank of the river, and descended it as far as Say, +where he had passed it the year before. In this journey of +one hundred and fifty leagues, he had seen everywhere the +evidence of great fertility, and a peaceable population, in whose +midst a European might travel in security; speaking to the +people, as he did, of the sources and termination of their great +fostering river—questions which interest those good negroes +as much, perhaps, as they have perplexed the scientific societies +of Europe, but of which they do not possess the most rudimentary +knowledge.</p> +<p>Arriving at Sokotó and Vurno in the midst of the rainy +season, Dr. Barth was warmly welcomed by the Emir; but, with +strength exhausted and health broken, he could not profit by his +kindness.</p> +<p>On the 17th of October he arrived at Kanó, where he had +been long expected; but neither money nor despatches had been +forwarded for him—no news from Europe had been +received. Yet at Kanó he had arranged to pay his +servants, discharge his debts, and renew his credits, long since +exhausted. He pledged the little property remaining to him, +including his revolver, until he could obtain the cutlery and +four hundred dollars left at Zindu; but, alas! these had +disappeared during recent intestine commotions. Kanó +must always be unhealthy for Europeans; and Dr. Barth, in his +enfeebled condition, acutely felt the ill effects of its climatic +conditions. His horses and camels fell ill, and he lost, +among others, the noble <a name="page155"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 155</span>animal which for three years had +shared all his fatigues.</p> +<p>Over every difficulty, every obstacle, that splendid energy +which had carried the great explorer to the Niger and +Timbuktú ultimately prevailed; and on the 24th of November +he set out for Kúkáwa. In his absence it had +been the theatre of a revolution. A new ruler held the +reins of government, and Dr. Barth was doomed to encounter fresh +embarrassments. It was not until after a delay of four +months that he was able to resume the journey through the +Fezzan. He followed this time the direct route, by +Bilma—the route formerly taken by the travellers, Denham +and Clapperton.</p> +<p>At the end of August he entered Tripoli, where he spent only +four days. By way of Malta he proceeded to Marseilles; and +thence to Paris; arriving in London on the 6th of September, +1855.</p> +<p>It may be doubted whether the English public have fully +appreciated the labours of this persevering explorer. To us +it seems that he occupies a high place in the very front rank of +African travellers, in virtue not only of the work he did, but of +the courage, perseverance, skill, and energy which he +displayed. He failed in nothing that he undertook, though +his resources were very limited, and the difficulties in his path +of the gravest character. He explored Bornú, +A’damáwa, and Bagirmi, where no European had ever +before penetrated. He surveyed, over an area of six hundred +miles, the region which lies between Katséna and +Timbuktú, though even to the Arabs it is the least known +portion of the Soudan. He formed friendly relations with +the powerful princes on the <a name="page156"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 156</span>banks of the Niger, from +Sokotó to the famous city which shuts its gates upon the +Christian. Five of his best years he dedicated to this +astonishing enterprise, enduring the gravest privations, and +braving the most pestilential climates, as well as the most +implacable fanaticism. All this he did, without friends, +without companions, without money. Of the five brave men +who undertook this adventurous expedition, he alone returned; and +returned loaded with treasure, with precious materials of all +kinds for the use of the man of science or the +merchant—with maps, drawings, chronologies, vocabularies, +historical and ethnological notes, itineraries, botanical and +geological data, and meteorological tables. Nothing escaped +his attention; he was not only a traveller and an observer, but a +scientific pioneer. Let us give due honour to a +Livingstone, but let us not forget the debt we owe to a Barth. <a +name="citation156"></a><a href="#footnote156" +class="citation">[156]</a></p> +<h2><a name="page157"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 157</span>MR. +THOMAS WITLAM ATKINSON,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND HIS ADVENTURES IN SIBERIA</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND CENTRAL ASIA.</span></h2> +<p style="text-align: center">A.D. 1849–55.</p> +<h3>I.</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Mr. Thomas Witlam Atkinson</span> among +recent travellers is not one of the least distinguished. He +ventured into what may be called “virgin +country”—a region scarcely known to Europeans; +carrying his life in his hand; animated by the desire of +knowledge rather than the hope of fame; quick to observe, +accurate in his observations, and intelligent in combining them +into a distinct and satisfactory whole. For some years he +lived among the wild races who inhabit Siberia and Mongolia, the +Kirghiz steppes, Chinese Tartary, and the wilder districts of +Central Asia; and he collected a vast amount of curious +information in reference not only to their manners and customs +and mode of life, but to the lands which they call their +own. The broad and irresistible wave of Western +civilization has reached the confines of their vast territories, +before long will pour in upon them, and already is slowly, but +surely, undermining many an ancient landmark. In the course +of another fifty years its advance will <a +name="page158"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 158</span>have +largely modified their characteristics, and swept away much that +is now the most clearly and picturesquely defined. We need, +therefore, to be grateful to Mr. Atkinson for the record he has +supplied of their present condition; a record which to us is one +of romantic interest, as to the future historian it will be one +of authentic value.</p> +<p>In introducing that record to the reader, he +says:—“Mine has been a tolerably wide field, +extending from Kokhand on the west to the eastern end of the +Baikal, and as far south as the Chinese town of Tchin-si; +including that immense chain Syan-shan, never before seen by any +European; as well as a large portion of the western part of the +Gobi, over which Gonghiz Khan marched his wild hordes; comprising +a distance traversed of about 32,000 versts in carriages, 7100 in +boats, and 20,300 on horseback—in all, 59,400 versts (about +39,500 miles), in the course of seven years.” Neither +the old Venetian, Marco Polo, nor the Jesuit priests, could have +visited these regions, their travels having been far to the +south; even the recent travellers, Hue and Gobet, who visited +“the land of grass” (the plains to the south of the +great Desert of Gobi), did not penetrate into the country of the +Kalkas. It is unnecessary to premise that in such a +journey, prolonged over so many years, extended into so many +countries, he suffered much both from hunger and thirst, was +exposed to numerous tests of his courage and fortitude, and on +several occasions placed in most critical situations with the +tribes of Central Asia; that he more than once was called upon to +confront an apparently inevitable death. Within the limits +to <a name="page159"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 159</span>which +we are confined, it will be impossible for us to attempt a +detailed narrative of his labours, but we shall hope to select +those passages and incidents which will afford a fair idea of +their value and enterprise.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Armed with a passport from the Czar of All the Russias, which +in many a difficult conjuncture proved to its bearer as +all-powerful as Ali Baba’s “Open Sesame,” Mr. +Atkinson left Moscow on the 6th of March, intent upon the +exploration of the wild regions of Siberia. A ten +days’ journey brought him to Ekaterineburg, the first +Russian town in this direction, across the Asiatic +boundary. Here he took boat on the river Tchoussowaia, +which he descended as far as the pristan, or port, of +Chaitanskoï. Thence he made an excursion to the house +of an hospitable Russian, the director of the Outskinkoï +iron-works, traversing a forest of pines, which deeply impressed +him by its aspect of gloomy grandeur. Resuming his +river-voyage, <a name="citation159"></a><a href="#footnote159" +class="citation">[159]</a> he observed that the valley widened +considerably as he advanced. On the west bank spread a +large extent of meadow-land; on the eastern, the soil was partly +cultivated, and bloomed with young crops of rye. The +pastures shone with fresh <a name="page160"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 160</span>strong verdure, were already starred +with flowers, while the birch trees were hourly bursting into +leaf. In this region the change from winter to summer is +magically sudden, like that of a transformation scene. At +night, you see the grass browned by frost, and the trees bare of +buds; in twenty-four hours, the meadows are covered with fresh +greenness, and the woods spread over you a thick canopy of +vigorous foliage. But if you come from a temperate clime, +you miss that sweet and gradual development of bud and bloom, of +leaf and flower, which is the charm and privilege of +spring. You miss the rare pleasure of watching the opening +violet, the first primrose, the early tinge of green upon the +hedgerow and in the coppice, which you recognize as the heralds +and pledges of happy days to come.</p> +<p>At Oslanskoï Mr. Atkinson took his leave of the +Tchoussowaia, and prepared to cross the Ural Mountains. But +while staying at Nijne-Toura, he resolved upon ascending the +great peak of the Katchkanar. The road led through a tract +of deep forest, which spread over high hills, and down into deep +valleys, filled with white vapour, through which the branches of +lightning-stricken pines loomed ghastly like the shivered masts +of a wreck through the ocean mist. Towards noon a +thunder-storm came on, accompanied by heavy rain. Portions +of the forest were so thick as completely to exclude the +daylight; and Mr. Atkinson and his companions frequently found it +necessary to cut their way through the intertangled growth.</p> +<p>Though bears and other beasts of prey frequent these wilds, +Mr. Atkinson met with none; the chief <a name="page161"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 161</span>danger was a fall in the midst of +rocks and prostrate trees, which might have been attended with +painful consequences. At last they emerged from the forest +gloom, at the foot of a steep ascent overlaid with huge blocks of +stones. As their horses slowly clambered up the rugged +acclivity, the sound was heard of the roar of water, indicating a +cataract close at hand. It proved to be the outcome of a +small stream, which tumbled down a steep and rocky bed in a +succession of shining falls. Crossing this stream, the +riders pursued their upward course until at eight o’clock +they reached the Katchkanar, after a tedious journey of eleven +hours. The guide, a veteran hunter, proposed to halt for +the night at the foot of some high rocks—a proposition +readily accepted. All hands set to work, and soon a great +fire was blazing, not only for the purpose of warmth, but as a +protection against the clouds of mosquitoes which swarmed around, +and threatened to murder sleep.</p> +<p>At three o’clock, Mr. Atkinson was up and about. +The dawn was swiftly advancing over the interminable Siberian +forest. Above the vast horizon stretched long lines of pale +yellow clouds, which every minute became more luminous, until +they seemed like so many waves of golden light rolling and +breaking on the far celestial shore. As the sun gradually +rose into the heavens, every mountain-top blazed with fire, like +gigantic altars, and the pines were transformed into columns of +gold. The adventurers were soon afoot, and, crossing a +little grassy valley, began the real ascent.</p> +<p>It was a chaotic mass of loose huge rocks, with snow filling +up many of the cavities; in other places <a +name="page162"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 162</span>they passed +under colossal blocks, over which it would have been no easy task +to climb. Further up they stretched across large patches of +frozen snow, and reached the foot of the high crags of the +Katchkanar; many of which stand out like huge crystals, not less +than one hundred feet in height, and are composed of regular +courses, with pure magnetic iron ore between their beds, varying +from one inch to four inches thick. In some places cubes or +crystals of iron project from the solid rock, three and four +inches square; and in others the whole mass seems to be of iron, +or some other mineral substance. Climbing one of the +highest pinnacles, Mr. Atkinson enjoyed a glorious prospect, such +as it is difficult for the dweller in plains, with their always +limited horizons, to form even an idea of. For hundreds of +miles the view to the east extended into Siberia, until all +disappeared in fine blue vapour. “There is something +truly grand,” says Mr. Atkinson, “in looking over +these black and apparently interminable forests, in which no +trace of a human habitation, not even a wreath of smoke, can be +seen to assure us that man is there. Turning to the north, +and about one hundred versts distant, Pardinsky Kanem rises out +of the dark forest (this is one of the highest points in the Ural +chain); it is partly covered with snow, and shines like frosted +silver in the bright sun. All the mountains near are blue, +purple, and misty, with a rugged foreground of rocks of great +height, broken into all shapes and forms. In fact, the +summit of the Katchkanar is evidently a mountain in ruins, the +softer parts having been removed or torn away by the hand of +time, leaving the barren portion, or vertebræ of the +mountain, <a name="page163"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +163</span>standing like a huge skeleton, which, seen at a +distance, often assumed the most fantastic and picturesque +shapes.”</p> +<p>After a brief rest, Mr. Atkinson and his friends began the +descent of the mountain, taking, however, a circuitous route +which secured them a variety of scenes, and about seven +o’clock in the evening they reached the site of their +encampment on the preceding night. There they slept until +dawn, when they made the best of their way back to +Nijne-Toura—a long day’s journey.</p> +<p>While at Nijne Mr. Atkinson had an opportunity of seeing +something of the pastimes popular among the iron-workers of the +district. It was the occasion of a popular festival, and +the workmen and their families were all holiday-making. +Females and children were riding merrily in the boxes of the +large swings that had been temporarily constructed. The men +were wrestling, just as they might do in Devonshire or +Cornwall. Stripping off his coat, each man tied his long +sash firmly round his waist; this his antagonist gripped with the +right hand, while the left was placed on his shoulder; then the +struggle began. One of the athletes was so conspicuously +superior to the rest in skill and prowess, that at length no one +would respond to his repeated challenges to try a fall. +Assuming the honours of championship, he was on the point of +quitting the arena when a slim-built, but well-proportioned, +young man suddenly stepped forward as a competitor. He was +evidently a stranger, and his appearance was greeted with a good +deal of laughter, in which the champion readily joined. The +latter acted as if assured of an easy victory, but, to the <a +name="page164"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 164</span>general +surprise, a sharp and prolonged contention ensued. The +wrestler, angry at the prospect of losing his laurels, exerted +all his dexterity to throw his daring opponent, and when that +failed, endeavoured to overcome him by superior strength. +In vain: he was flung prostrate on the ground. Red with +shame, he sprang to his feet and repeated his challenge. A +second combat followed, and the would-be champion, by a second +defeat and a heavy fall, was taught a lesson in modesty, which it +is to be hoped he long remembered.</p> +<p>Meanwhile, the young girls, in their best and brightest +costumes, shone like a bed of many-coloured tulips. Some, +with hands clasped together, walked to and fro, singing simple +songs to those plaintive Russian melodies which, in their sweet +minor keys, are often so beautiful. Others joined in a game +which resembles our English see-saw. A plank, about seven +feet long, was placed on a centre block, six inches high. +At each end stood a player, who, by springing up and alighting +again on the board, caused her companion at the other end to rise +higher every time. The players in this way would sometimes +bound as high as three feet or three feet and a half.</p> +<p>From Nijne Mr. Atkinson made several excursions into the +mining districts of the Ural, and afterwards returned to +Ekaterineburg, to complete the preparations for his Siberian +expedition. He took with him a young man, about twenty-four +years old, who spoke German fluently, and bidding adieu to his +friends, started on his journey. In spite of every effort, +he says, a feeling of deep sadness overtook him when his gaze +rested for the last time on the lofty mountain <a +name="page165"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 165</span>crest which +forms the boundary of Europe. But the die was cast; he gave +the word “Forward!” and away dashed the horses into +Asia. Kamenskoï was the first stage; beyond which he +entered the valley of the Issetz, and rapidly approached the +great monastery of St. Tolometz. It stands on the left bank +of the Issetz, near its junction with the river Teleta, and in +external appearance resembles the Kremlin of Moscow. The +walls are strengthened by towers at the angles, and close to the +east end stands the church, an elegant and a spacious +edifice. The road from this point still lay along the high +bank of the Issetz, which here flows through a well-wooded +country and teeming fields of wheat and rye. There are no +fences in the fields; but every village has its ring-fence of +posts and rails, enclosing an area of from two to three miles in +diameter, with gates on the high-road, and a watchman to open and +shut them. Passing station after station, Atkinson crossed +the Issetz and the Tobol, and struck into the steppes of +Ischim—a flat, uninteresting tract of country between the +rivers Tobol and Ischim. It is watered by several lakes, +and the small sandy ridges—they can scarcely be called +hills—are often covered with pine-woods.</p> +<p>Here he fell in with a large party of convicts, marching, +under a strong guard, into Eastern Siberia. There were +ninety-seven in the gang, the van of which was led by seventeen +men and three women, in chains, destined for Nertchinsk, more +than four thousand versts further. The journey would occupy +them eight months. The others followed in pairs, on their +way to the government of Irkutsk; they had three thousand versts +to travel, or a march of six months. <a +name="page166"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 166</span>Behind them +came telagas <a name="citation166"></a><a href="#footnote166" +class="citation">[166]</a> with baggage, and eleven women riding; +some of whom were accompanying their husbands into their +miserable exile. In front and on each side rode mounted +Cossacks, who strictly guarded the prisoners; but what were they +to do if they escaped? There was no prospect before them +but death by starvation.</p> +<p>At the various posting-stations barracks are built, the front +buildings of which are occupied by the officers, guards, and +attendants. From each end, to the distance of about forty +or fifty feet, stretches a high stockade, which returns at right +angles, and runs about sixty feet. It is then carried along +the back so as to enclose in all an area of two hundred feet by +sixty; in the middle are the buildings for the prisoners. +The stockade is formed of trunks of trees, twelve inches in +diameter, standing fifteen feet above the ground, and cut to a +sharp point at the top; placed close together, they form a very +strong barrier. The prisoners, moreover, are placed under +continual supervision. They march two days, at a rate of +twenty to twenty-five versts daily, and rest one. A gang +leaves Ekaterineburg every Monday morning.</p> +<p>After leaving Kiansk, which Mr. Atkinson anathematizes as +“the worst town in all Siberia,” he travelled +directly south, with the view of visiting Lakes Sartian and +Tchany, the remains of a great inland sea. From Lake Tchany +a chain of lakes, some of which are fifty or sixty versts broad, +extends south-west for nearly two hundred and fifty versts. +The country was low and swampy, but rose occasionally in slight +undulations, clothed with long coarse <a name="page167"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 167</span>grass, and frequently relieved by +extensive clumps of birch and aspen, or a thick underwood of +bushes. The lakes proved to be surrounded by so dense a +growth of reeds that the water was visible only at a few +points. Beyond, the country was thickly wooded, with large +pieces of cultivated land, on which were fine crops of wheat and +rye growing. The villages were well-built and clean; the +inmates looked comfortable and cleanly; and large herds of cattle +grazed in the village pastures. Speeding onward in his +tarantass, as fast as six horses could carry him, our traveller +crossed the Barabinsky steppe—a region curiously unlike +that dreariness of monotony, or monotony of dreariness, which is +generally associated with the name. The traveller might +have been excused for thinking himself in some fair district of +England, when he looked around on hills of gentle slope, covered +with noble trees, which formed the boundaries of considerable +plains, and saw the deer nimbly bounding through the fresh green +glades. The view was brightened here and there with +plantations of large timber; at other points rose sheltered belts +of young trees; the effect being in each case so picturesque as +to induce the fancy that art had thus arranged them. The +ground teemed with flowers, as if Proserpine’s fertile feet +had consecrated it—with the bright geranium, pale blue and +deep blue delphinium, white and dark rich crimson dianthus, +peony, and purple crocus. The lakes that studded the +expanse, like silver gems in an emerald setting, bore expanded on +their tremulous wave the blooms of the white and yellow +<i>Nymphoea</i>. The whole scene was exquisitely sweet and +tranquil.</p> +<p><a name="page168"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 168</span>But +in Siberia changes are frequent and sudden, and to this Eden bit +quickly succeeded a Slough of Despond. Crossing a morass in +a heavy vehicle, drawn by six or seven horses, is not a pleasant +sensation; happily, the traject was accomplished without +accident. Another and another followed; and through each, +with hard struggling on the part of the horses, and much yelling +on the part of the yemtschick, or driver, the traveller was +carried successfully. He was thankful, however, when the +country again improved, and his road once more lay among the +hills and pastures. At Krontikha, he was greeted with a +noble view of the valley of the Ob, one of the great rivers of +Siberia. From one high ridge to the other, twelve or +fifteen versts is the width of the valley; in the middle, with +constant undulations, first to one side and then to the other, +like a coquette between two suitors, the shining stream pursues +its capricious way, sometimes breaking off into several channels, +divided by green little patches of island. Looking to the +north-east, the traveller discerns, at a distance of one hundred +and fifty versts, Kolyvan, formerly the chief town of the +government—a rank now assigned to Tomsk, which lies one +hundred and fifty versts further in the same direction. To +the north and east the eye rests on a vast level, dark with the +heavy shadows of forests of pine.</p> +<p>At Barnaoul, the chief town in the mining district of the +Altai, Mr. Atkinson found himself 4527 versts from St. +Petersburg. After a night’s rest he resumed his +forward course, and the character of the country soon warned him +that he was approaching the steppes which extend westward to the +banks of the Irtisch. <a name="page169"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 169</span>These dreary wildernesses were the +home and haunt of the Kirghiz, before the Russians drove them +across the river, and built a line of forts along its bank from +Omsk to the mouth of the Bouchtarma. The frontier to the +Kirghiz steppe is guarded by a line of barracks; the whole length +of the line (about 2500 versts) stretching far up into the Altai +mountain range, and along the boundary of China. Dull +beyond description is the landscape here. The chief product +is wormwood; and around the fords and watercourses grow only a +few bushes and stunted willows.</p> +<p>Kolyvan Lake lies at the foot of some offshoots of the Altai +chain. The masses of rocks which strew its shores, broken +and fantastic of outline, present all the appearance of a ruined +city. The granite seems to have been forced up in a soft or +liquid state; then to have flowed over and cooled; after which it +has been forced up again and again, with the result that it has +assumed, in hardening, the most extraordinary forms. The +rocks on the heights of the Altai are not less remarkable: some +mock you with the aspect of ruined battlements and feudal keeps; +others might be mistaken for human heads of a size so colossal +that even the magic helmet in “The Castle of Otranto” +would have been a world too small for them.</p> +<p>It is at Oubinskoï, a small town or village on the broad, +deep, willow-fringed Ouba, that the ascent of the Altai really +begins. Thence you cross the Oulba, and ascend a valley +full of charming bits for the artist, to the silver mines of +Riddersk. About fifteen versts beyond rises the +snow-crowned height of Ivanoffsky-Belock, the source of the +Gromotooka, or stream of thunder (“grom”), one of the +wildest rivers in the <a name="page170"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 170</span>Altai. With a roar like that +of thunder it hurls its foaming waters down the rugged steep, +frequently tearing off and whirling along with it huge fragments +of rock, and filling the startled air with a din and clang which +are audible for miles. At Riddersk Mr. Atkinson was +compelled to abandon his tarantass; he engaged twenty horses to +accompany him, and an escort of fifteen men, five of whom carried +rifles, while the rest were equipped with axes. A ride of +twenty versts, and he reached Poperetchwaia, the last village in +this part of the Altai. It is occupied by only eighteen +families, who live there in the solitude of the mountain valley, +with the great white peaks around them, ignorant of all the +events that daily help to make up the history of the age into +which they have been born—ignorant of the intellectual +movements that are agitating the minds and filling the thoughts +of men. A strange, apparently a useless, life! A life +without action, without hope, without purpose! Surely ten +years of our free, busy, progressive English life are preferable +to a hundred years in this lonely Siberian wild. Each +family, we are told, have their horses and cows, and around the +village is pasture sufficient for large herds. The stags on +the mountains are also theirs, and the deer on the hills, and the +fish that teem in the rivers. Wild fruit is plentiful; and +the bees in their hives produce abundance of honey. It is a +Siberian Arcady; but an Arcady without its poetic romance.</p> +<p>The patriarch of the village is described by Mr. Atkinson as a +fine old man, with a head and countenance which would have +furnished an artist with a model for one of the +Evangelists. Health and <a name="page171"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 171</span>happiness shone in his face, the +ruddy glow of which was set off by his silver-white beard. +He wore a plain white shirt, hanging over trousers of thin linen, +and fastened round his waist with a red sash; the trousers were +tucked into a pair of boots which reached almost to the +knee. In winter, a wolf or sheep skin coat is added to this +picturesque costume.</p> +<p>In ascending the Altai our traveller plunged into a glorious +forest of cedars, which, with their gnarled and twisted branches, +formed an arched roof almost impervious to the sun. The +scene afterwards changed to a silvery lake, the Keksa, which +slept peacefully in the deep shadows of the mountains. Then +came woods of larch, and pine, and birch, all freshly green, and +breathing a pungent aromatic odour; and grassy glades, fit haunts +for the Oreads of the Greek, or the fairies of the Teutonic +mythology, with high cedar-crowned mountains rising on either +hand. There were no birds; but on the crags stood numerous +graceful stags, watching suspiciously the passage of the +strangers, and from bough to bough the black squirrel leaped in +his mirth. Less pleasant inhabitants were the flies and +mosquitoes, which infested the valley depths and lower +levels. Still continuing to ascend, Mr. Atkinson entered a +rocky gorge that crossed the shoulder of the mountain +ridge. Here the crags presented their most savage +grandeur. Time had hewn them into various imposing forms: +some like turreted battlements and massive towers; others like +enormous buttresses thrown up to support the huge sides of the +mountain. While threading the defile, the travellers were +overtaken by a terrible storm; the wind raged over the heights +and through the ravines with a cruel and sudden <a +name="page172"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 172</span>fury; the +lightning like blood-streaks wound across the darkened sky; the +thunder broke in peal after peal, which the echoes caught up and +repeated until the air rang as with the din of battle. They +sheltered themselves behind a crag until the tempest was past, +and then began the descent of the other side of the mountain.</p> +<p>Glad were they to find themselves in the more genial lowlands; +and leaving behind them the Chelsoun chain of the Altai, which +they had just crossed, they rode at a rapid rate towards +Zirianovsky, a mining station at the foot of the Eagle +Mountains. The silver mines here are the most valuable in +the Altai. Some of the ores, which are exceedingly rich, +lie at a depth of two hundred and eighty feet; others have been +followed to a depth of four hundred and ninety feet. In +working them the great difficulty to be confronted by the miners +is the vast quantity of water that almost inundates the mines; +but this might be obviated by the employment of a +steam-engine. To carry the ore to the smelting-works +upwards of two hundred horses are employed. First, it is +conveyed in small carts, drawn by one horse, to Werchnayan +pristan, on the Irtisch, a distance of more than one hundred +versts; thence it is sent down the river in boats to +Oust-Kamenogorsk pristan; and from the last place it is removed +again in carts to Barnaoul, Pavlovsky, and other zavods; making a +traject of nine hundred versts in all from the mines to the +smelting-works.</p> +<p>Skirting the base of the Kourt-Choum mountains, which form the +boundary between the Russian and Chinese empires, Mr. Atkinson +turned his face <a name="page173"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +173</span>southward, and before long arrived at Little +Narym—a small outpost of Cossacks, stationed on a plain +within a few versts of the Russian frontier. He was then on +the military road, which extends only about twenty versts +further, to the last outpost from Western Siberia. Having +obtained horses, two telagas, and Cossack drivers, he started +down the valley of the Narym, which opens into that of the +Irtisch, and at nightfall entered Great Narym. To the +officer in command he explained his project of crossing the +Chinese frontier; but was warned that, as winter had already set +in, and the snow lay deep in the Kourt-Chume chain, he would +probably be lost or frozen to death if he attempted that +route. He was advised to go through the Kirghiz steppe; and +the officer courteously offered to forward him from one Cossack +post to another, until he reached the fortress at +Kochbouchta. Mr. Atkinson gladly accepted the offer, and +arranged to meet his new friend in Ust-Kamenogorsk, on the +Irtisch, hiring a boat and men to convey him thither. The +boat consisted of two small canoes lashed together, five feet +apart, with beams placed across, and the whole boarded over so as +to provide a platform, or deck, about fifteen feet by ten. +In the head and stern of each canoe sat a strong, sturdy fellow, +with a small paddle, not much larger than a child’s garden +spade; this was used only to guide the bark, its progress being +sufficiently provided for by the rapidity of the current. +Paddling out into the middle of the river, which was more than a +thousand yards broad, the boatmen soon got into the swing of the +current, and the voyage began. “I was watching the +changes in the scene,” says <a name="page174"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 174</span>Mr. Atkinson, “as one mountain +peak after another came in view; when suddenly, and without any +previous intimation, two of the men called out that their canoe +was filling fast, and that they must make for the shore without a +minute’s delay! Before we got halfway to the bank she +was nearly full of water, and when within about a hundred yards, +the men cried out that she was sinking; this brought our broad +deck down to the water on one side, and helped to float +her. The men paddled with all their might, and at last we +reached a thick bed of reeds, which assisted in keeping us +afloat, till we succeeded in getting near enough to the bank to +throw our luggage ashore; and then we landed.”</p> +<p>After some trouble, Mr. Atkinson was able to hire a good boat, +used for transporting the ore; and the luggage was transferred to +it. Then a new difficulty arose; one of the men +deserted. But with great promptitude Mr. Atkinson seized a +bystander, and kept him prisoner until the deserter was given +up. At last, a fresh start was effected. The sun was +setting; a keen cutting wind blew up the river; and there was no +shelter to be obtained, nor wood for a fire, for many +versts. Fast over the valley crept the cold shades of +night, and swiftly did they steal up the mountain sides. No +signs of any resting-place could be discovered, and the scenery +grew more and more gloomy. Turning a rocky headland, they +beheld at a great distance the glimmer of a fire, though whether +it was in a dwelling, or on the river bank, they could not +determine. Bending vigorously to their oars, the boatmen +shot forward rapidly; and after a long pull arrived at a small +Cossack station, where Mr. Atkinson readily obtained shelter.</p> +<p><a name="page175"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 175</span>Asia, +he remarks, is the land for tea; there it is that a man learns to +appreciate the herb at its full and proper value. After +refreshing himself with the popular beverage, he took a long walk +alone on the bank of the Irtisch. The fine, picturesque +scenery was seen with impressive effect under the influence of a +splendid moonlight, which cast the lower mountains into deep +shade, while a silver lustre rested on the snow-crowned peaks, +contrasting vividly with the gloom of the valleys. +“How infinitely small,” says Mr. Atkinson, “the +sight of these mighty masses made me feel, as I wandered on in my +solitary ramble! Excepting myself, I could not see one +living thing—all was silent as the grave. I had +passed some high rocks that shut out the Cossack post from my +view, and had entered a valley, running up into the mountains, +which lay shrouded in dusky shadow. Two white peaks rose +far into the cold, grey sky; the full light of the moon shining +upon one of them, and aiding much in giving a most solemn +grandeur to the gloomy scene. Fancy began to people this +place with phantoms, ghosts, and goblins of horrible +aspect. It required but the howling of the wolves to give a +seeming reality to the creations of the imagination.”</p> +<p>Passing the mouth of the Bouchtarma, Mr. Atkinson descended +the river to Mount Kamenogorsk. There he found his friend, +the Cossack colonel, who provided him with an escort of two +stalwart Cossacks, armed with sabre, gun, pistol, and long +lance. His party also included an unarmed Cossack driver, +and his own attendant. He set out in a light telaga, drawn +by three horses, and plunged into the solitude <a +name="page176"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 176</span>of the +Kirghiz steppe, which extends eastward to Nor-Zaisan and +southward to the Tarbogatni Mountains. There are many +undulations on this vast plain, which in summer affords pasturage +for immense herds of horses. While halting on the bank of a +dried-up stream to dine, Mr. Atkinson observed in the distance a +small column of white smoke, which he supposed to proceed from a +Kirghiz aul, or village; but a guide whom he had hired assured +him there were no encampments in that direction, and that the +smoke issued from burning reeds on the shores of Lake +Nor-Zaisan. Thitherward the traveller immediately +proceeded; sometimes over rich pastures, at others over a rough +tract of ground and stones almost bare of vegetation. After +riding a couple of hours, they were able to make out that the +steppe was on fire, and that all the reeds were feeding the +flame; and in due time they came upon a miserable Kirghiz yourt, +or dwelling, inhabited by a dirty Kirghiz woman and four +children, three of whom were very ill. She received the +stranger, however, with simple hospitality, kindled the fire, and +set his kettle on it. In return he made tea for himself and +the children, who were lying on a voilock, covered up with +skins. He then walked to the summit of a neighbouring hill +to gain a view of the burning steppe. The fire was still +about ten versts to the east, but was travelling west, and across +Mr. Atkinson’s track, extending in breadth some miles +across the plain—a great wave of flame, which, accompanied +by rolling clouds of smoke, ran swiftly along the ground, +consuming the long grass, and reddening the horizon with a lurid +glow.</p> +<p>Next morning Mr. Atkinson resumed his journey, <a +name="page177"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 177</span>passed a +Kirghiz aul, and reached the margin of the Nor-Zaisan, but was +unable to obtain a glimpse of its waters, owing to the dense +masses of tall reeds which completely encircled it. He rode +across to the Irtisch, but there too the view was similarly +blocked up. There was nothing to be done but to return as +quickly as possible to Kochbouchta, and prepare for the +expedition into Chinese Tartary, which he had long had in +contemplation. A man of irrepressible energy and singularly +firm resolution, Mr. Atkinson, when his plans were once formed, +lost no time in carrying them into execution. But while the +necessary arrangements were being made, he found time to +accomplish some short but interesting excursions in the +neighbourhood of Kochbouchta, visiting the gold mines, and +sketching the romantic scenery of the valley of the +Isilksou. At length he was ready for his departure, and +with an escort of three Cossacks, his servant, and his own +Cossack attendant, he once more crossed the Irtisch, and began +his journey across the Kirghiz steppe. All the party were +well armed and well mounted, and Mr. Atkinson felt competent to +encounter, if need be, half a hundred of the nomadic bandits, if +they should attempt to plunder him. His servant, however, +manifested so lively a dread of the robbers of the steppes, and +so strong a disinclination to a close acquaintance with the +Kirghiz, that Mr. Atkinson ordered him back to Ust-Kamenogorsk to +await his return, rightly judging that his fears would render him +an incumbrance and an impediment rather than a useful +auxiliary.</p> +<h3><a name="page178"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +178</span>II.</h3> +<p>The tribes of the Kirghiz nation spread over the Asiatic +steppes from the Aral river to the Ala-Tau Mountains. From +time immemorial they have been divided into the Great, the +Middle, and the Little Hordes. The Great Horde occupies the +territory north of the Ala-Tau, extending into China and +Tartary. The Middle Horde inhabits the countries lying +between the Ischim, the Irtisch, Lake Balkash, and Khokand. +The Little, which is by far the most numerous Horde, wanders over +the undulating plains bounded by the Yamba and the Ural, over +Turkistan (now under Russian rule), and into Siberia. As a +whole, the Kirghiz population may be assumed to number about +1,250,000 souls. They are of Turco-Tartaric origin; and, +according to Max Müller, Southern Siberia was their mother +country. Nominally, they own the supremacy of the Great +White Czar on the one side, and of the Chinese Emperor on the +other; but their nomadic habits secure their virtual +independence. Each tribe is governed by its sultan or +chief. Quarrels and blood feuds between the different +tribes are of constant occurrence. Many live wholly by +brigandage; swooping down suddenly, under cover of night, on the +richer auls, or villages, they carry off horses, cattle, and +other objects of value, besides men, women, and children, whom +they sell into slavery. These nocturnal raids are called +barantas.</p> +<p>The yourt, or tent, of the Kirghiz bears a close resemblance +to the kibitka of the Kalmucks. One of the better class is +thus described: It was formed of <a name="page179"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 179</span>willow trellis-work, put together +with untanned strips of skin, made into compartments which fold +up. It represented a circle of thirty-four feet in +diameter, five feet high to the springing of the dome, and twelve +feet in the centre. This dome is formed of bent rods of +willow, an inch and a quarter in diameter, put into the +mortice-holes of a ring about four feet across, which secures the +top of the dome, admits light, and lets out the smoke. The +lower ends of the willow rods are tied with leathern thongs to +the top of the trellis-work at the sides, which renders it quite +strong and secure. The whole is then covered with large +sheets of voilock, made of wool and camel’s hair, fitting +close, so that it is both warm and water-tight. The doorway +is formed of a small aperture in the trellis-work, over which +hangs a piece of voilock, and closes it. In the daytime +this is rolled up and fastened on the roof of the yourt.</p> +<p>The reader will not be surprised to learn that the furniture +and fittings of the yourt are remarkable for their simplicity; +the Kirghiz having none of the ingenuity of a Robinson Crusoe or +the inventiveness of an American backwoodsman. The fire is +kindled on the ground in the centre of the yourt. Directly +opposite to the door, voilocks are spread; on these stand sundry +boxes containing the clothing of the family, pieces of Chinese +silk, tea, dried fruits, and ambas of silver (small squares, +about two inches and a half long, an inch and a half wide, and +three-tenths of an inch thick). Some of the Kirghiz possess +large quantities of these ambas, which are carefully hoarded +up. Above the boxes are bales of Bokharian and Persian +carpets, often of great <a name="page180"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 180</span>beauty and value. In another +part of the yourt lies the large sack of koumis, or mare’s +milk, completely covered up with voilock to keep it warm and +promote the fermentation. And near this bag stands a large +leathern bottle, sometimes holding four gallons, and frequently +enriched with much ornament; as are the small bottles which the +horseman carries on his saddle. In another place may be +seen the large iron caldron, and the trivet on which it rests +when used for cooking in the yourt. There are usually half +a dozen Chinese wooden bowls, often beautifully painted and +japanned, from which the koumis is drunk; some of them hold three +pints, others are still larger. On entering a Kirghiz yourt +in summer, each guest is presented with one of these Chinese +bowls full of koumis. To return the vessel with any koumis +in it is considered impolite, and the rudeness is one of which a +good Kirghiz is assuredly never guilty.</p> +<p>The saddles are deposited on the bales of carpets. As +the wealthy Kirghiz greatly esteem rich horse trappings, many of +these are beautiful and costly. If of Kirghiz workmanship, +they are decorated with silver inlaid on iron, in chaste +ornamental designs, and are padded with velvet cushions; the +bridles, and other parts of the equipment, are covered with small +iron plates, similarly inlaid.</p> +<p>Leathern thongs, ropes made of camel’s hair, common +saddles, saddle-cloths, and leathern tchimbar hang suspended from +the trellis-work. The tchimbar, or trousers, however, are +not infrequently made of black velvet, richly embroidered with +silk, more especially the back elevation; and they are so large +and loose <a name="page181"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +181</span>that a Kirghiz, when he rides, can tuck into them the +laps of his three or four khalats. As he ties them round +his waist with a leathern strap, he presents a most grotesque +appearance with the centre part of his person bulging like a +great globe, out of which the very diminutive head and legs +protrude.</p> +<p>The national dress of the Kirghiz is the khalat, a kind of +pelisse, very long and very full, with large sleeves, made of +cashmere or silk, and in the most dazzling colours; but the +poorer nomad substitutes for this state dress a horse-skin +jacket. Breeches fastened below the hips by a girdle of +wool or cashmere, high-heeled madder-coloured boots, and a +fox-skin cap, rising into a cone on the top, and lined inside +with crimson cloth, complete his costume. His weapons are +the spear, gun, and axe. The last is a long formidable +weapon; the iron head is moderately heavy and sharp; the handle, +about four and a half feet long, is secured by a leathern thong +round the wrist. It is often richly inlaid with +silver. The women wear a high calico head-dress, a part of +which falls over the shoulders and covers up the neck; boots of +the same make and colour as the men’s, and a long and ample +khalat, with, sometimes, a shawl tied round the waist.</p> +<p>The Kirghiz begin to make koumis in April. The mares are +milked at five o’clock in the morning and about the same +time in the evening, into large leathern pails, which are +immediately taken to the yourt, and emptied into the koumis +bag. The latter is five to six feet long, with a leathern +tube, about four inches in diameter, at one corner, through which +the milk is poured into the bag, and the koumis drawn out of +it. <a name="page182"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +182</span>A wooden instrument, not unlike a churning-staff, is +introduced into the bag, for the purpose of frequently agitating +the koumis, which is not considered in good condition until after +the lapse of twelve to fourteen days. It is drunk in large +quantities by such of the Kirghiz as are wealthy enough to keep +up a considerable stud of brood mares; and every Kirghiz, rich or +poor, slings his koumis bottle to his saddle in summer, and loses +no opportunity of replenishing it at the different auls he +visits.</p> +<p>In crossing the steppe, Mr. Atkinson fell in with the aul of +Mahomed, a Kirghiz chief, who was reputed to be very +wealthy. Mahomed was a fine robust man, about sixty years +old, stout and square-built, with broad features, a fine flowing +grey beard, a pair of small piercing eyes, and a fairly pleasant +countenance. He wore on his head a closely fitting silk +cap, handsomely embroidered in silver; his dress consisting of a +large robe, or khalat, of pink and yellow striped silk, tied +round the waist with a white shawl. His boots were of +reddish-brown leather, small, with very high heels, causing a +real or apparent difficulty in walking. His wife, much +younger than himself, and probably not more than thirty or +thirty-five years of age, had a broad face, high cheek-bones, +twinkling black bead-like eyes, a small nose, a wide mouth; she +was neither pretty nor prepossessing; but decidedly in want of a +hot bath. Attired in a black kaufa (Chinese satin) khalat, +with a red shawl round the waist; reddish-brown high-heeled +boots, like her husband’s; she also wore a rather pointed +white muslin cap, the lappets of which, finely wrought on the +edge with red silk, hung down nearly to her hips. This +couple were rich in the <a name="page183"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 183</span>world’s goods from a Kirghiz +point of view. Not only was their yourt well stocked with +voilocks and carpets, and richly ornamented weapons, and costly +caparisonings, but they owned an amount of live stock which would +astonish the most opulent English farmer. The noise in and +around the aul was deafening. It was a babel of sounds: the +sharp cry of the camels, the neighing of the horses, the +bellowing of the bulls, the bleating of the sheep and goats, and +the barking of the dogs, all combining in one hideous, +ear-shattering chorus. Mr. Atkinson counted no fewer than +106 camels, including their young; besides more than 2000 horses, +1000 oxen and cows, and 6000 sheep and goats. Yet even +these large totals did not represent all the wealth of the +Kirghiz chief; for he had two other auls, and at each were 1000 +horses and numerous cattle. It was a picturesque and +interesting sight to see the women busily milking the cows, and +the men conducting the vast herds to their pastures. The +horses and camels are driven to the greatest distance, as far as +ten and fifteen versts; the oxen come next; the sheep remain +nearest the aul, but still at a distance of five or six +versts.</p> +<p>While Mr. Atkinson was sojourning in Mahomed’s aul, a +night attack was made upon it. He was aroused, about two +hours after midnight, by a tremendous noise, which to him, +sleeping on the ground, seemed as if it issued from some +subterranean hollow. At first he thought it was the +rumbling of an earthquake, and immediately sat upright. But +the sound rolled on, drew nearer and nearer; presently it passed, +so that the whole earth shook. Then he knew that the herd +of horses was dashing onward at full <a name="page184"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 184</span>gallop; and when he caught the +shrieks of women and the shouts of men, he understood that an +assault had been made upon the aul by robbers. In a moment +he seized his rifle, and sallied forth from the yourt, to behold +the Kirghiz, battle-axe in hand, leap on their horses, and gallop +towards the point of attack. The herds were rushing wildly +round the aul; the Cossacks, with their muskets loaded, were +ready for the fray; all was confusion and disorder. +Presently the sound of horses swiftly approaching could be heard; +they came nearer and nearer; in less than two minutes a dark +troop swept past like a whirlwind at twenty paces distant, making +the air ring with loud, defiant shouts. Five bullets +whistled after them; there was a scream from a horse, but on they +dashed. The Kirghiz followed quickly in pursuit, +accompanied by two of the Cossacks, who had rapidly +mounted. After riding about a verst they came up with the +robbers, to find they were three times their number, and prepared +to fight for their booty. Against such odds no success +could be hoped for, and accordingly the Kirghiz retired to the +aul. When day dawned it was ascertained that this daring +razzia had cost Mahomed a hundred horses.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>This was not the only adventure that befell Mr. Atkinson while +he made Mahomed’s aul his headquarters. One day, he +was returning from an excursion to some finely coloured porphyry +rocks, when the wind begun to blow across the steppe in strong +and frequent gusts, and his Kirghiz guides announced that a storm +was at hand. Their prediction was confirmed by the clouds +that gathered about <a name="page185"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 185</span>the lower peaks of the Altai, and +soon a dense mass of blackness, extending for a long distance +from north to south, rolled rapidly in the direction of the +travellers. Not a tree or a rock offered the slightest +shelter. Spurring their horses briskly, they galloped over +the plain, pursued by the storm, as, in Goethe’s ballad, +the father and his doomed child are pursued by the Erl +King. The gusts of wind ceased, and for a short time a +deadly calm prevailed. Meanwhile, the clouds were painfully +agitated, as if by some internal force, and streams of vapour +issuing from their blackness whirled rapidly round. A low +murmur stole through the air; gradually it deepened and +strengthened, until, as the storm broke upon the steppe, it +swelled into a roar like that of a thousand cannon. The +grasses and low bushes were rooted up, and sent flying into the +air with fearful velocity. The terrified horses stopped +suddenly; nor could they be induced to move until the whirlwind +had passed by. Fortunately the travellers had not been +caught in its vortex, and no serious accident occurred.</p> +<p>Leaving the hospitable Mahomed, Mr. Atkinson continued his +explorations of the steppe, and rode onward to the next aul, +which lay to the northward, and was reached in two days’ +journey. Here, after the usual entertainment, he found +himself free to write up his journal—much to the +astonishment of his companions, the three R’s being unknown +in the steppe to any but the mullahs, or priests, of the various +tribes. The manuscript was a wonder to the children of the +wilderness, and they regarded its owner as a very wealthy mullah, +possessed of the priceless treasure of a book full of +amulets. For the mullah sells his <a +name="page186"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 186</span>amulets, or +charms, at the rate of a sheep for each scrap of paper, which he +has covered with unmeaning characters. Mr. Atkinson’s +ring was examined; also his knife; also a piece of red +sealing-wax. On a piece of thick paper from his sketch-book +he took impressions of his seal, and presented them to the women +of the yourt, who doubtlessly long wore them in their caps as +talismans or ornaments of special value and importance. His +watch was likewise an object of curiosity. He held it to +the ear of a woman sitting near him. Evidently she thought +it was alive and talking, for she communicated the fact to her +companions, and they all expressed a wish to hear it speak.</p> +<p>By way of Mount Kamenogorsk, his old quarters, Mr. Atkinson +proceeded to Barnaoul, which he reached on the 1st of +November. This town is built at the junction of the small +river Barnaulka with the Ob. The streets are wide, laid out +in parallel lines, and intersected by others at right +angles. There are three ugly brick churches, and one large +hospital. Its silver smelting works are on an extensive +scale, producing annually about nine thousand pounds. +Almost all the gold found in Siberia is also smelted here, and +cast into bars; and every year six caravans leave with the +precious metals for St. Petersburg—four in winter by the +sledge roads, and two in summer. Barnaoul is the centre for +the administration of the mines of the Altai, and the residence +of the Natchalink, or director, as well as of the heads of the +principal departments.</p> +<p>The public museum at Barnaoul contains a very good collection +of minerals, some Siberian antiquities, <a +name="page187"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 187</span>a few +Siberian animals and birds, and four tiger-skins. The +wearers of these skins were killed in different parts of Siberia; +in two instances their capture proving fatal to some of the +peasants engaged in it, for pea-rifles and hay-forks are scarcely +fit weapons with which to encounter the fiercest of the beasts of +prey. They are seldom found in Siberia; only when driven by +hunger do they cross the Irtisch, and many peasants do not know +them even by name. The last of the Barnaoul company, now +reposing peacefully in a glass case, was discovered, early one +morning, prone on the top of a small hay-rick, near the +village. The peasant, who had come for some hay for his +horses, beheld with surprise and terror the strange and +formidable creature, and shrank from his glaring eyeballs, which +seemed to sparkle with fire. At the same moment the +peasant’s dog caught sight of him, and, with a loud bark, +bravely dashed towards the rick. Growling terribly, the +tiger sprung to the ground. The dog met him +intrepidly,—to be crushed in a moment beneath his heavy +paw. Hastening towards the village, the man gave the alarm, +and quickly returned with a valiant company; some armed with +pea-rifles, others with hay-forks and axes. Several dogs +followed them. On approaching the rick, they were apprised +of the enemy’s position by a furious growl. The dogs +made a brilliant charge; but the tiger crouched sullenly, and did +not spring. A small shot through his hide roused him, and +at a bound he was in among the dogs, killing a couple of them +instantly with his terrible paws, and scattering the rest in +ignominious flight. He received two more balls, but they +served only to inflame his fury, and <a name="page188"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 188</span>leaping in among his assailants, he +felled one of them to the ground, dead. Again the dogs +charged him, while the peasants with their hay-forks stabbed him +in the back and sides. At last he withdrew slowly towards a +bank covered with brushwood, followed by the dogs and their +masters; but on reaching the bank he halted, faced round, growled +angrily, and prepared for another spring. His enemies +halted, and poured in shot upon him; the dogs barked furiously; +but he held his ground, and could not be induced to move. +After a while, encouraged by his inaction, the dogs began to +close in upon him, and finally it was discovered that a ball had +pierced him in a vital part, and the beast was dead.</p> +<p>The river Ob, which flows past Barnaoul, is described as a +magnificent stream, running in a valley twelve versts broad; its +numerous small branches divide this valley into islands, on which +large trees are growing. In May the melting of the snow +swells the stream into a great flood, which inundates much of the +valley, and gradually widens from one bank to the other, with the +tops of the trees rising above the swirl of waters like +islands. At this time many of the scenes along the Ob are +very grand, especially if seen at sunrise or sunset, when the +various colouring of the luminous sky is mirrored in the mighty +stream, which, flashing with golden and crimson lights, rolls +through the deep purple masses of the forest, to terminate its +course in the Arctic Ocean.</p> +<p>The neighbourhood seems to be an attractive one for the +sportsman; snipe abound in June and July, blackcock in August, +and rebchicks, or tree partridges, <a name="page189"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 189</span>in September. Wild hen are +also plentiful, and in winter, hares. Or if the hunter care +for more venturous sport, he may sally out against the wolves and +bears.</p> +<p>The bears are dangerous antagonists. A very large one +was seen by some woodcutters about fifteen versts from the gold +mine; and two men, one of whom was known as a bold, skilful, and +veteran hunter, started in pursuit. They found the +beast’s track quite fresh in the long dewy grass, and +cautiously followed it up, until a low growl warned them of his +presence. He sprang out of a thicket, about thirty-five +paces distant, and confronted his pursuers. The hunter +fired, and his shot told, but not in a vital part. The +wounded animal charged immediately, the other man reserving his +shot until he was within twenty paces. Then, unfortunately, +his rifle missed fire. The bear at once stood on his hind +legs, and sprang forward against his first assailant, striking +him to the earth with a blow that stripped his scalp and turned +it over his face; then, seizing his arm, he began to gnaw and +crush it to the bone, gradually ascending to the shoulder. +The sufferer called to his companion to load and fire; but, +losing heart when he saw his friend so terribly mangled, the +craven took to flight.</p> +<p>Returning to the gold mine, he related what had happened; but +it was then too late to despatch a party in search of the +unfortunate hunter. At daylight next morning, however, they +set out, with the craven as guide. On arriving at the scene +of the affray, no remains of the victim could be found but some +torn clothing and his rifle; and the trampled grass showed that +he had been carried off into the thick covert. The trail +was pursued with the utmost diligence, and <a +name="page190"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 190</span>at length, +under a heap of branches, in a dense thicket of trees and bushes, +the hunter’s body was discovered, and, strange to say, +though grievously mutilated, it still throbbed with life. +With tender care the miserable victim was conveyed to the gold +mine and taken to the hospital, where he was treated with the +utmost kindness, and all was done that medical skill could +do. For a long time he remained unconscious; but at the end +of two months a slight improvement was noticeable, and he +recovered his reason. His first question was about the +bear; his next, about his own defeat. In truth, his +conversation turned only upon these subjects: he seemed possessed +by a monomania; was continually asking for his rifle, that he +might go and kill “Michael Ivanitch” (the +bear). As his strength returned, it was thought necessary +to place him under restraint, lest his desire to contend with his +fierce and powerful enemy should lead him into some dangerous +enterprise.</p> +<p>But when autumn arrived, and laid its magical finger on the +forest, the monomaniac seemed to have forgotten his hate, so that +he was watched with less rigour. He took advantage of his +comparative freedom to steal from the hospital, gain his own +cottage, and, in the absence of his family, arm himself with his +rifle and axe, and stow away in his wallet a loaf of black +bread. Then, as the shades of evening began to fall, he +started for the forest, and soon disappeared in the gathering +gloom.</p> +<p>As soon as his absence from the hospital was known, a close +search for him was instituted; but in vain. A week passed +by, and it was supposed that he had perished, when one day he +strode into the hospital, <a name="page191"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 191</span>carrying on his shoulders the skin +of a huge black bear. Throwing it down, he exclaimed, +“I told you I would have him.” Thenceforward he +rapidly recovered; both his physical and mental health were +re-established, and he lived to bring down many another +“Michael Ivanitch” with his deadly rifle.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>A curious incident befell a Cossack officer in the woods of +Barnaoul.</p> +<p>Alone and unarmed, he was sauntering through the forest +glades, gathering specimen plants, when, at a distance of about +eight versts from the gold mine, he emerged into an open space, +where stood a few isolated trees; and the same moment he +descried, not more than two hundred yards off, a she-bear and her +two cubs gambolling together. She, too, recognized his +presence; and, with a fierce growl, drove her young ones into a +tree as an asylum, and, resolute to defend them, mounted guard at +its foot.</p> +<p>To carry off the cubs as trophies was the Cossack’s +resolve, but he wanted a weapon. Retiring into the wood a +few steps, he came to a place where the woodmen had felled +several young birch trees, and from one of these he selected four +feet of a stout, strong, but manageable stem, with which he +returned to the scene of action. At his approach the old +bear resumed her growling, and moved uneasily to and fro in front +of the tree, but carefully keeping within a few feet of it. +He continued his advance. She growled more savagely, and +plainly suspected his hostile intentions. Still he moved +forward, with his eyes steadfastly fixed upon her. When he +was within about fifty paces, she made a fierce rush that would +have put most men <a name="page192"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +192</span>to flight. He held his ground, and as the cubs +began to whine, she trotted back towards the tree, in a mood of +uncontrolled rage. The Cossack followed; she turned; the +two antagonists stood face to face at a distance of twenty +yards.</p> +<p>Retreat was now impossible; and there they stood, gazing +keenly on each other, and each waiting for an opportunity to +attack. The bear, with fiery eyeballs, made a second rush, +and at a few paces from her daring enemy, rose on her hind legs, +either to fell him with her heavy paws or crush him in her cruel +embrace; but, with wonderful coolness, he brought down his club +and toppled her over. In a second she sprang to her feet, +and prepared to renew the charge; another tremendous stroke laid +her on the ground. The combat assumed a desperate and +deadly character, and several “rounds” were +determinedly fought. Eventually, the Cossack’s +well-directed blows subdued her courage, and when she could +neither charge him in front nor get in his rear, she fell back +towards the tree, still fighting desperately. Under the +tree a fresh spirit was infused into the affray, and every time +she heard her cubs whine, she returned with increased fury to the +assault. She was received, however, with such a shower of +blows, that, at last dispirited and exhausted, she retreated +hastily towards the forest, and entered its shades; contriving, +nevertheless, whenever the gallant Cossack moved towards the +refuge of her cubs, to make a rush in that direction.</p> +<p>All this time the cubs remained perched among the branches, +and the officer, considering himself victorious, longed to take +possession of his prize. But he could devise no plan of +getting at them, and it was <a name="page193"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 193</span>evident they would not come down at +his call. Luckily, a woodman, on his way to the gold mine, +rode into the arena. The Cossack hailed him; ordered him to +dismount, to take from his saddle the zumka, or leather +saddle-bags, and, climbing the tree, to thrust the cubs into +them, while he himself kept watch over the mother bear. +This was done, though not without several sharp encounters +between the she-bear and the officer; and, finally, the peasant +threw his heavy bags across his horse, and led the way to the +ravine, the Cossack covering the rear. In this fashion they +marched into Barnaoul; first, the woodman and his horse, next the +Cossack officer, and behind him the bear. The march +occupied two hours, and the unfortunate mother persevered to the +very last, not abandoning her young ones until their captor had +reached the cottages. Then she hastily returned into the +forest, and was seen no more.</p> +<h3>III.</h3> +<p>There is much to attract and impress in the scenery of the +lakes of the Altai. Lake scenery in a mountainous country +is always picturesque, always striking, from the variety of forms +which it presents, and its endless contrasts of light and shade, +and its magical combinations of colours. Moreover, it +passes so rapidly from the calmly beautiful to the sublime! for +at one moment the silver waters sleep as profoundly as a babe on +its mother’s breast; at another, the storm-wind issues from +the savage glen, and lashes them into a white wrath. In the +genial days <a name="page194"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +194</span>of summer it shines and sparkles with a peculiar +radiance; a golden glory seems to hang upon the mountain sides, +and a purple light rests on the bosom of the lake. In the +dreary winter, nothing can be grander in its gloom; the hollows +and the glens are heavy with an eery darkness, through which the +white peaks show like sheeted phantoms. In truth, it +appeals to us by its twofold features of the mountain and the +water. The former awakens our awe, lifts us out of our +commonplace lives, and fills us with a sense of the wonder and +mystery of God’s work; it is an embodiment of majesty and +power, a noble and sublime architecture, the study of which +awakens the higher and purer impulses of the soul. Beauty +of colour, perfection of form, an endless change in the midst of +what seems to us an everlasting permanency—all those are +the mountain’s; all these belong to that great cathedral of +the earth, with its “gates of rock,” its +“pavements of cloud,” its snow-white altars, and its +airy roof, traversed by the stars. Then as to water; has it +not a wonder and a beauty of its own? “If we think of +it,” says Ruskin, “as the source of all the +changefulness and beauty which we have seen in clouds; then as +the instrument by which the earth we have contemplated was +modelled into symmetry, and its crags chiselled into grace; then +as, in the form of snow, it robes the mountains it has made, with +that transcendent light which we could not have conceived if we +had not seen; then as it exists in the foam of the torrent, in +the iris which spans it, in the morning mist which rises from it, +in the deep crystalline peaks which mirror its hanging shore, in +the broad lake and glowing river; finally, <a +name="page195"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 195</span>in that +which is to all human minds the best emblem of unwearied, +unconquerable power, the wild, various, fantastic, tameless unity +of the sea; what shall we compare to this mighty, this universal +element, for glory and for beauty? or how shall we follow its +eternal changefulness of feeling?” Bring the two +together, the water and the mountain, and the landscape attains +its highest character; the picture is then as consummate in its +mingled beauty and grandeur as Nature can make it; and hence it +is, I think, that lake scenery has always such a power over the +imagination.</p> +<p>The Altin-Kool, or Golden Lake, measuring about one hundred +versts in length, and from three to twelve in breadth, lies in an +enormous chasm, with peaks and precipices all around it, some of +them two thousand feet in height, and so perpendicular as to +afford no footing even for a chamois. On the west side of +the lake, the mountain pinnacles rise to 10,500 feet, and on the +south several are even loftier. On the east side their +elevation is less, but still they reach far above the line of +vegetation into the region of perpetual snow. Having +engaged some Kalmucks, or boatmen, Mr. Atkinson and his +companions set out in canoes to explore the lake, beginning on +the east. For the first ten versts the mountains do not +rise very abruptly; they slope to the north, and green cedar +forests cover them to the very summit, while the banks on the +opposite side are almost treeless. Winding round a small +headland, the lake expands into a splendid basin, with +picturesque mountains grouped on either shore. Early in the +evening the voyagers stopped near a torrent, which poured its +foam and din <a name="page196"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +196</span>down a narrow gorge, and the Kalmucks recommended it as +a favourable site for an encampment. A bed of clean white +sand, about fifteen feet wide, sloped gradually to the +water-side. Between the upper rim of the sand and the +rocks, large cedars were growing, and under these a bulayan, or +wigwam, was constructed. Though consisting only of a few +bare poles, covered with birch bark, open in front, and the ends +filled up with branches, it was warm, and it kept out the +mosquitoes; and within its welcome covert Mr. Atkinson and his +party contentedly passed the night.</p> +<p>At daybreak, a fresh wind was blowing, and until this subsided +the Kalmucks could not be induced to move. Satisfied at +last with the promise both of sky and mountains, they pushed off, +and doubling round a rocky point, entered a broad and beautiful +bay, curving gracefully in the shadow of snow-capped +mountains. At Tasck-tash, a bold headland, the lake turns +directly south. Climbing to its summit, Mr. Atkinson +enjoyed a noble view of the expanse of shining waters—one +of those views which rests in the memory for ever, and is at all +times a beauty and a joy. The general character of the +landscape is boldness. Along the west shore the rocks dip +to the east, at a very sharp angle, while upon their foundations +the crags rise perpendicularly, and, above all, a snow-crowned +summit shines like silver against the sapphire sky. On the +east, as already stated, the mountains are less abrupt; but one, +a conspicuous peak, rears a lofty and rounded crest far into the +clouds, with white vaporous billows clinging to its rugged sides, +and the eternal snow whitening its remote crest.</p> +<p><a name="page197"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 197</span>As +the voyage progressed, the voyagers came upon such mysteries of +colour as filled them with delight. Out of the chinks and +clefts in the deep red granite bloomed bright plants and flowers +with tropical luxuriance. Some slate rocks, grey, purple, +and orange, intervened; the bright yellow of the birches lighted +up the distant rocks; and the background was filled in with the +deep purple mountains. The whole was a wonder of rich +harmonious colouring, like a symphony of Beethoven’s. +At another point a gleaming waterfall leaped boldly over a +succession of picturesque rocky terraces, the colours of which +were bright as those of the rainbow, green, yellow, purple, and +glowing red. There was also a white marble, spotted with +purple; another, white, with veins of bluish purple; and a mass +of exquisite, deep plum-coloured jasper. On the third day +of their exploration, the voyagers entered one of the wildest +parts of the lake—a deep circular recess in the Karakorum +Mountains, into which three streams fling their heedless waters, +uniting near the brink of a mighty precipice, and then tumbling +down from ledge to ledge, to pass through a natural arch and fall +into the lake. Prom the summit of the cliff, where the +water takes its first leap, to the level of the lake, is not less +than two thousand feet. “Avalanches must sometimes +sweep over this place, and large trees are bent down and stripped +of their branches. Huge rocks are torn up and hurled along, +crushing and grinding everything in their course, as they rush on +into the lake. No man can conceive the chaotic confusion +into which the mass of ice and rocks has been heaped. One +enormous stone, weighing not less than a hundred <a +name="page198"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 198</span>and fifty +tons, had been placed on its end, on the edge of the rock, in an +overhanging position towards the lake.”</p> +<p>Various rivers flow into the Altin-Kool, such as the +Tchoulishman, the Kamga, and the Karbou. They are navigated +by the Kalmucks in light canoes, each constructed from the trunk +of a single tree. The poplar is much used for this purpose; +but, notwithstanding the softness of its wood, the labour of +canoe-building is very great, owing to the rude character of the +tools employed. The sides are cut down to a thickness of +about three-quarters of an inch; but the bottom, which is usually +made flat and without a keel, is nearly double the thickness.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Having completed his circumnavigation of the Altin-Kool, Mr. +Atkinson, with his thirst for new scenes unquenched, started on a +visit to the source of the river Katounaia. His route lay +past Kolyvan, a town where the population is principally employed +in cutting and polishing jasper and porphyry, and across the +river Tchenish. He then crossed into the valley of the +Koksa, and descended upon the Yabagan steppe, where he met with +some Kalmuck auls, and was present at a curious pseudo-religious +ceremony, the offering up of an annual sacrifice to the Kalmuck +deity. A ram was presented by its owner, who desired a +large increase to his herds and flocks. It was handed to an +assistant of the priest, who duly killed it. Meanwhile, the +priest, looking eastward, chanted a prayer, and beat on a large +tambourine to attract the attention of his god, while he +petitioned for multitudes of sheep and cattle. When the ram +<a name="page199"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 199</span>had been +flayed, the skin was hoisted on a pole above the framework of the +bulayan, and placed with its head to the east. The +tambourine was loudly beaten, and the wild chant continued. +Then the flesh was cooked in the large caldron, and all the tribe +partook of the dainty—“there was a sound of revelry +by night.”</p> +<p>The Kalmuck priest wears a leather coat, over the laps of +which impend hundreds of strips, with leather tassels on the +breast. He fastens a girdle round his waist; and an +assortment of brass balls on his back, and scraps of iron in +front, produces a continuous jingle. His crimson velvet cap +is ornamented over the forehead with brass beads and glass drops, +and at the back with feathers from the tail of the crane.</p> +<p>The Kalmucks who inhabit these steppes own large herds of +horses and oxen, and flocks of sheep. Some of the men are +sturdy fellows and perfect Nimrods; they live by the chase, and +spend months alone in the mountain wilds. Mr. Atkinson +speaks of them as brave, honest, and faithful. “I +have slept at their bulayan, and partaken of their venison. +A City alderman would be horrified to see the haunch of a fine +buck cut into small pieces an inch square and half an inch thick, +through twenty of which a sharp-pointed stick is run, and the +thick end stuck into the ground in a leaning position near the +fire. Every man here is his own cook, and attends to the +roast. The upper piece is first done, when it is slipped +off, dipped in salt, and eaten quite hot—without currant +jelly.”</p> +<p>At Ouemonia Lake, the last village in the Altai, Mr. Atkinson +halted in order to obtain a sufficient number of men and horses +for his ascent to the source of the <a name="page200"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 200</span>Katounaia, and the Bielouka, the +highest point in the Altai chain. He was provided by the +chief official, or magistrate, with an escort of six Kalmucks and +two Russians (one of them a veteran hunter), and at seven +o’clock on Wednesday morning sprang into his saddle and +rode away. Including himself and his attendant, the party +consisted of ten men, with sixteen horses and one dog. +Crossing a little steppe, about six versts long, they entered the +forest belt which surrounds the lower declivities of the +forest-range, and through groves of pine, cedar, birch, and +poplar, began their ascent of the first chain. Emerging +from the thick leafy covert, they came upon the bare +mountain-side, with a storm of rain and sleet beating in their +faces, and pursued their way to the foot of a lofty acclivity, +across which lay their track. Here they rested, in a +“cedarn shade,” until the gale had subsided: then +<i>en avant</i>! Through masses of fallen granite and +jasper, interspersed with a few giant cedars, they slowly made +their way, until they began in earnest to climb the great steep; +a slow operation and a dangerous, for great crags, hurled from +the upper heights, hung here and there so insecurely as, +apparently, to need but a breath to send them crashing downwards +in an avalanche, and at other places the ledges along which they +rode were so narrow, that the slightest stumble on the part of +their patient horses must have precipitated them into +destruction! A painful ride of two hours brought them to +the summit, which commanded a noble view of the Katounaia valley +and the mountains to the north.</p> +<p>Their ride was continued over a high plateau, on which huge +rocks, rugged and curiously wrought, the <a +name="page201"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 201</span>remains of +shattered peaks, stood in their awful grandeur; carrying back the +imagination through the dim shadows of the past to a period long +before the present forms of life existed, and speaking eloquently +of the vast changes which earth has undergone. Their aspect +was often that of colossal castles, grim with tower and +battlement, which fancy peopled with the demons of the mountain +and the wilderness. But the travellers could not stay to +study them; signs of a terrible tempest were visible, and they +dashed forward at a hard gallop to seek shelter in the valley of +the Tschugash. A group of cedars, with a patch of smooth +turf, was found on the river bank, and there they +bivouacked. The night passed without accident or adventure; +and early next morning they were again on horseback, and across +ridge and valley, through scenes of the strangest +picturesqueness, pursued their track. Across ridge and +valley, but in a lofty region always—just below the line of +perpetual snow, but above the region of vegetation; the eye +unrelieved by branch of moss or blade of grass; until, towards +evening, they descended into the valley of the Arriga. Then +they wound over a low wooded ridge, and struck into a rugged +pass, at the head of which they encamped for the night. The +tents were pitched; a huge fire blazed; and the hunter having +shot a very fine deer, a savour of venison speedily perfumed the +cool night air. What with venison and wodky, the travellers +feasted gloriously, and the echoes rang with the wild songs of +the Kalmucks.</p> +<p>The morning came, and with it the signal +“Forward!” They ascended the bank of the Arriga +to its source—a small circular basin of about thirty feet +<a name="page202"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +202</span>diameter, at the foot of a precipice seven or eight +hundred feet in height. The basin was deep, with a bed of +white pebbles; the water, clear as crystal, issuing forth in a +copious stream, rolled downward in a series of small and shining +cascades. The path, from this point, lay across a high +mountain, the upper part of which was deep shrouded in snow, and +it toiled up to the summit in about a hundred bends and curves; a +summit like a razor-back, not more than twenty-five feet +wide. The ascent was arduous and perilous, but still worse +the descent on the other side, owing to the exceeding +steepness. Accomplishing it in safety, Mr. Atkinson found +himself in the valley of the Mein. The river rises at the +foot of a precipice which reaches far above the snow line, and +winds its course through a morass which, in the old time, has +been a lake, shut in by a barrier of rocks, except at one narrow +gap, where the little stream finds an exit in a fall of about +fifty feet deep. At the head of the lake is another +cataract, which throws its “sheeted silver’s +perpendicular” down the precipice in one grand leap of full +five hundred feet.</p> +<p>Crossing another chain, and still ascending, the explorers +reached another little lake, the Kara-goll, or “Black +Lake,” with its waters shining a deep emerald green. +This effect, however, is not produced by any surrounding verdure, +for the lake is almost encompassed by high mountains, and crags +of red and yellowish granite, that rise up into the region of +eternal snow. At the upper end a huge mass of basaltic +rocks, of a deep grey colour, forms a fine contrast to the yellow +castellated forms at their base. On the opposite side of +the lake high precipices of <a name="page203"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 203</span>granite are backed by grand mountain +summits, white with the snows of uncounted ages.</p> +<p>Fording the Kara-sou, or “black water”—a +stream issuing from the lake—and crossing a beautiful +valley, the riders entered a thickly wooded region which +stretches over the lower mountain range down to the Katounaia, +and arrived on the bank of the river Bitchuatoo. Thrice had +they changed from summer to winter in the course of a day’s +ride. Turning to the south, they ascended a steep and lofty +summit, from which it was supposed the Bielouka would be +visible. It proved to be a rocky height that towered above +all the mountains to the west of the Katounaia, even above the +loftiest crests of the Chelsoun; and vast and magnificent was the +panorama which it commanded. In the foreground, a ridge of +huge granite crags, tinted with mosses of almost every hue. +In all directions rolled chains of snowy peaks, like the +storm-tossed waves of a suddenly frozen sea; and as they rolled, +they gradually ebbed, so to speak, down to the far steppes of +Chinese Tartary, and were lost in a vapour-shrouded horizon.</p> +<p>But the Bielouka was not to be seen, and Mr. Atkinson resumed +his ride, keeping along the crest of the mountain for about two +versts, and then striking into a little valley, watered by +several lakelets. A dreary place! There were neither +shrubs nor trees; and the barrenness of desolation was relieved +only by a few patches of short mossy grass. Sharp edges of +slate, projecting above the surface, showed that the upheaval of +the strata had been effected perpendicularly. To the south +rose “half a mountain” in a precipice of not less +than 2500 feet above the lakes; while a <a +name="page204"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 204</span>similarly +strange combination of cliffs faced it on the north. +Between these precipices, at the head of the valley, towered what +might be taken for a colossal dome; beyond which a forest of +white peaks were sharply defined against the blue serene.</p> +<p>The travellers reached the head of the valley, and examined +from a near point the enormous dome. From a distance the +curve on its sides had appeared as regular as if wrought by human +skill; but they now found that it was piled up with huge blocks +of slate and granite, over which it would be impossible to take +the horses. A steep ascent to the north brought them, +however, to its summit. There the scene was sufficiently +remarkable: you might have thought that the Titans had been at +play, with great fragments of slate, granite, jasper, and +porphyry for their counters. The horses and most of the men +were sent round by the base of the cliffs, while Mr. Atkinson, +with his servant and the village-hunter, scrambled through the +chaos to the edge of a vast circular hollow, which proved to be a +vast volcanic crater, not less than nine to twelve hundred feet +in diameter, and fully fifty feet in depth. It was heaped +up with blocks and boulders and fragments of all sizes, from a +cube of twelve inches to a mass weighing half a hundred +tons. It is a belief of the Kalmucks that this gloomy spot +is inhabited by Shaitan, and they regard it with superstitious +dread. Certainly, it is eery enough to be haunted by many a +ghostly legend.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Next day, taking a different track, Mr. Atkinson descended the +valley of the Tourgau, listening to the music of the stream as it +raced over its rocky bed with <a name="page205"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 205</span>the speed of a “swift +Camilla.” At a point where it suddenly swept round +the base of some cliffs of slate, the Kalmuck guide said that it +might be forded, though the passage was very difficult. +“We stood on the high bank a few minutes,” says Mr. +Atkinson, “and surveyed the boiling and rushing water +beneath, while immediately above were a succession of small +falls, varying from six to ten feet in height. At the +bottom of the last there was a rapid, extending about twenty +paces down the river; then came another fall of greater depth; +after which the torrent rushes onward over large stones until it +joins the Katounaia. Across this rapid, between the falls, +we had to make our passage—not one at a time, but five +abreast, otherwise we should be swept away. As we could +only descend the rocky bank in single file, and scarcely find +room at the bottom for our horses to stand upon, it was no easy +matter to form our party before plunging into the foaming +water. Zepta was the first to descend; I followed; then +came three others, with two led horses. To go straight +across was impossible; we could only land on some shelving rocks +a few paces above the lower fall. The brave Zepta gave the +word, and we rode into the rushing waters, knee to knee. +Our horses walked slowly and steadily on, as the water dashed up +their sides; instinct making them aware of the danger, they kept +their heads straight across the stream. The distance we +forded was not more than twenty paces, but we were at least five +minutes doing it; and it was with no small satisfaction that we +found ourselves standing on the rocks, some twenty feet above the +water, wishing as safe a passage to our friends. When I saw +them <a name="page206"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +206</span>drawn up on the little bank, and then dash into the +stream, I felt the danger of their position more than when +crossing myself. Their horses breasted the torrent bravely, +and all were safely landed; the dog was placed on one of the +pack-horses, where he lay between the bags in perfect +security. I am certain that every man felt a relief when +the enterprise was accomplished, which would have been impossible +had the water been three inches deeper.”</p> +<p>Continuing their ride down the valley, in about ten hours the +party reached the river Katounaia and the grassy valley through +which it foams and flows. Their route lay up its banks, and +speedily brought them to the broad swift stream of the Tourgau, +which reflects in its water groups of cedars and birches, with +rows of tall poplars decked in foliage of the richest +colours. Fording the Tourgau, they soon afterwards came +again upon the Katounaia, and crossing it, reached a bend in the +valley, which presented to them the monarch of the Altai chain, +the magnificent Bielouka. Its stupendous mass uplifts two +enormous peaks, buttressed by huge rocks, which enclose a number +of valleys or ravines filled with glaciers; these roll their +frozen floods to the brink of the imposing precipices which +overhang the valley of the Katounaia.</p> +<p>Mr. Atkinson determined on attempting the ascent of this regal +height. It was a bright morning when he started, and the +two white peaks shone grandly in the early sunshine, which +gradually dipped down into the valley, and with its fringes of +gold touched the sombre cedars. An hour’s ride +carried him and his followers to the bifurcation of the +Katounaia, and <a name="page207"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +207</span>then they ascended the north-eastern arm, which rises +among the glaciers of the Bielouka. When they had got +beyond the last tree that struggled up the mountain’s side, +they dismounted; and Mr. Atkinson, with the hunter, Zepta, and +three Kalmucks, pressed forward on foot, leaving the others in +charge of the horses. At first they clambered over the +ruins of a mighty avalanche, which in the preceding summer had +cloven its way down the precipices, until they reached the +glacier, stretching far up the mountain, whence wells the +Katounaia in two little ice-cold, transparent streams. +There they halted for their mid-day meal. Turning to the +west, they toiled up a terrific gorge, filled with fallen rocks +and ice, and then climbed a rugged acclivity that, like an +inclined plane, reached to the very base of one of the peaks of +the Bielouka. Step after step they wearily but persistently +ascended, until they reached the frozen snow, scaling which for +about three hundred paces they reached the base of the peak, +already at such a height as to overlook every summit of the +Altai. Far away to the west the vast steppes of the Kirghiz +were lost in the blue distance. To the west many a +mountain-ridge descended towards the steppes on the east of +Nor-Zaisan, and to the Desert of Gobi. The shimmer of a +lake was visible at several points; while innumerable rivers, +like threads of silver, traced their fantastic broidery through +the dark green valleys.</p> +<p>About a hundred paces further, the adventurers found +themselves at the head of another glacier, which stretched +westward through a deep ravine. Beyond it lay the great +hollow between the two <a name="page208"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 208</span>peaks. This, in Mr. +Atkinson’s opinion, it was possible for them to reach, +though they could not hope to ascend either peak. They are +cones, he says, from eight hundred to a thousand feet high, +covered with hard frozen snow, with a few points of the green +slate jutting through. We imagine, however, that to a +member of the Alpine Club, to any one who has conquered the +Matterhorn or the Jungfrau, they would offer no insuperable +difficulties.</p> +<p>Mr. Atkinson retraced his steps in safety, gained the spot +where the Kalmucks were waiting with the horses, and rode rapidly +towards the place which he had selected for a camp. Next +morning he proceeded to cross the mountains by a new route to the +mouth of the river Koksa; it proved to be the most arduous of his +many enterprises. Hour after hour, his Kalmuck guide led +him through a wilderness of rocks and sand, and he rejoiced +greatly when at last they descended towards the wooded region, +and caught sight of the dark Katounaia winding in a deep valley +three thousand feet below. They followed downwards a track +made by animals, but, though easy for stags and deer, it was +difficult for horses. In many places the only traject was a +narrow ledge, with deep precipices beneath, and often steep, +rugged acclivities above. In one place they had to ride +over what the Kalmucks call a “Bomb”—a narrow +ridge of rocks, passable only by one horse at a time. +Should two persons meet on any part of these “Bombs,” +one of the horses must be thrown over, as it is as impossible to +turn round as to pass. On reaching the track by which the +Kalmuck hunters ascend the mountains, Zepta called a halt, and +sent one of his companions <a name="page209"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 209</span>on foot to the other end of the +fearful ridge, hidden from view by some high crags, round which +the party had to ride. In less than half an hour he +returned, but without his cap, which had been left as a signal to +any hunters who might follow, that travellers were crossing the +“Bomb.”</p> +<p>And now we shall allow Mr. Atkinson to speak +himself:—</p> +<p>“Zepta and the hunter told me to drop the reins on my +horse’s neck, and he would go over with perfect +safety. The former led the van; I followed, as desired, at +three or four paces behind him. For the first twenty yards +the sensation was not agreeable. After that I felt perfect +confidence in the animal, and was sure, if left to himself, he +would carry me safely over. The whole distance was about +five hundred paces, and occupied about a quarter of an hour in +crossing. In some places it was fearful to look +down—on one side the rocks were nearly perpendicular for +five or six hundred feet; and on the other, so steep, that no man +could stand upon them. When over, I turned round and +watched the others thread their way across; it was truly terrific +to look at them on the narrow and stony path—one false +step, and both horse and rider must be hurled into the valley a +thousand feet below! These are the perils over which the +daring sable-hunters often ride. With them it is a +necessity; they risk it to obtain food, and not for bravado, or +from foolhardy recklessness—like that of some men who ride +their horses up and down a staircase. Kalmuck and Kirghiz +would laugh at such feats. I have seen men who would ride +their horses along the roof of the highest cathedral in Europe, +if a plank, eighteen <a name="page210"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 210</span>inches wide, were secured along the +ridge. Nor would they require a great wager to induce them +to do it; theirs is a continual life of danger and hardships; and +they never seek it unnecessarily.”</p> +<p>This ridge carried them across the valley, and they descended +through a dense cedar forest to the bank of the river, where they +supped splendidly on a fine fat buck that had fallen to the guns +of Zepta and Mr. Atkinson. Next morning, they were again in +the saddle <i>en route</i> for Ouemonia, where their safe return +excited much popular enthusiasm. Bidding adieu to his +faithful companions, he crossed the Katounaia, and with a new +escort rode on towards the Koksa. Leaving it to the south, +he struck the river Tschugash, encamped for the night in a clump +of pines on its bank, and in a day or two arrived at his old +quarters on the Tchenish.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Mr. Atkinson’s next expedition was to the great Desert +of Gobi, sometimes called <i>Scha-ho</i>, or the Sandy +River. Beginning upon the confines of Chinese Tartary, its +vast expanse of sterile wilderness stretches over some twelve +hundred and fifty miles towards the coasts of the Pacific. +It consists in the main of bare rock, shingle, and loose sand, +alternating with fine sand, and sparsely clothed with +vegetation. But a very considerable area, though for a +great part of the year not less monotonously barren, assumes in +the spring the appearance of an immense sea of verdure, and +supplies abundant pasturage to the flocks and herds of the +Mongolian nomads; who wander at will over the wide +“prairie-grounds,” encamping wherever they find a +sheltering crag or a stream of water. <a +name="page211"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 211</span>The general +elevation of the Gobi above the sea is about 3500 feet.</p> +<p>It must be owned that the Gobi is not as black as it is +painted. There are fertile nooks and oases, where the +sedentary Mongols, and especially the Artous, sow and reap their +annual crops of hemp, millet, and buckwheat. The largest is +that of Kami. The gloomy picture of “a barren plain +of shifting sand, blown into high ridges when the summer sun is +scorching, no rain falls, and when thick fog occurs it is only +the precursor of fierce winds,” <a +name="citation211"></a><a href="#footnote211" +class="citation">[211]</a> is true only of the eastern districts, +such as the Han-hai, or “Dry Sea,” or the Sarkha +Desert, where, for instance, you meet with scarcely any other +vegetation than the <i>Salsoloe</i>, or salt-worts, which +flourish round the small saline pools. “In spring and +summer,” says Malte Brun, “when there is no rain, the +vegetation withers, and the sun-burnt soil inspires the traveller +with sentiments of horror and melancholy; the heat is of short +duration, the winter long and cold. The wild animals met +with are the camel, the horse, the ass, the djiggetai, and troops +of antelopes.”</p> +<p>It has been observed, and not without reason, that the great +Asiatic desert has exercised a fatal influence on the destinies +of the human race; that it has arrested the extension of the +Semitic civilization. The primitive peoples of India and +Tibet were early civilized; but the immense wilderness which lay +to the westward interposed an impassable barrier between them and +the barbarous tribes of Northern Asia. More surely even +than the Himalaya, more than the snow-crowned summits of Srinagur +and Gorkha, these <a name="page212"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +212</span>desert steppes have prevented all communication, all +fusion between the inhabitants of the north and those of the +south of Asia; and thus it is that Tibet and India have remained +the only regions of this part of the world which have enjoyed the +benefits of civilization, of the refinement of manners, and the +genius of the Aryan race.</p> +<p>The barbarians who, when the darkness of ruin hung over the +Roman Empire, invaded and convulsed Europe, issued from the +steppes and table-lands of Mongolia. As Humboldt says <a +name="citation212"></a><a href="#footnote212" +class="citation">[212]</a>:—“If intellectual culture +has directed its course from the east to the west, like the +vivifying light of the sun, barbarism at a later period followed +the same route, when it threatened to plunge Europe again in +darkness. A tawny race of shepherds—of Thon-Khiu, +that is to say, Turkish origin—the Hiounguou, inhabited +under sheep-skin tents the elevated table-land of Gobi. +Long formidable to the Chinese power, a portion of the Hiounguou +were driven south in Central Asia. The impulse thus given +uninterruptedly propagated itself to the primitive country of the +Fins, lying on the banks of the Ural, and thence a torrent of +Huns, Avars, Chasars, and divers mixtures of Asiatic races, +poured towards the west and south. The armies of the Huns +first appeared on the banks of the Volga, then in Pannonia, +finally on the borders of the Marne and the Po, ravaging the +beautiful plains where, from the time of Antenor, the genius of +man had accumulated monuments upon monuments. Thus blew +from the Mongolian deserts a pestilential wind which blighted +even in the Cisalpine plains the delicate flower of art, the +object of cares so tender and so constant.”</p> +<h3><a name="page213"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +213</span>IV.</h3> +<p>With three Cossacks, seven Kalmucks, eight rifles, and a store +of powder and lead, Mr. Atkinson passed into the Gobi. His +Kalmucks had their hair cut close, except a tuft growing on the +top of the head, which was plaited into a long tail, and hung far +down their back. The chief was named Tchuck-a-bir, a +stalwart, powerful fellow, with a fine manly countenance, large +black eyes, and massive forehead. He wore a horse-skin +cloak, fastened round his waist with a blood-red scarf. In +warm weather he drew his arms from the sleeves, which were then +tucked into his girdle, and the cloak draped around him in +graceful folds, adding to the dignity of his tall and robust +form.</p> +<p>Across the Kourt-Choum mountains the travellers took their +way, directing their course towards the Tanguor chain, many of +the peaks of which soar above the line of eternal snow. +Ascending one of these summits, they enjoyed a noble prospect: +immediately beneath them lay the Oubsa-Noor; to the south-west +were visible the Oulan-Koum Desert and the Aral-Noor; to the +south lay Tchagan Tala, and the ridges descending down to the +Gobi; to the south-east the white crests of the Khangai +Mountains. This was such a view of Central Asia as never +before had European enjoyed.</p> +<p>Keeping far away to the east, they approached the sources of +the Selenga and Djabakan, in the neighbourhood of which he hoped +to meet with the Kalka tribes. In a rich green valley they +came upon one of their auls, and were hospitably received by +Arabdan, <a name="page214"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +214</span>the chief, who, according to the custom of the desert, +at once handed to Mr. Atkinson a bowl of tea. Not, indeed, +tea as we English understand it, the clear thin fluid, sweetened +with sugar and tempered with cream; but a thick +“slab” mixture of tea, milk, butter, salt, and +flour—tea-soup it might appropriately be called. +Arabdan was tall and thin, between fifty and sixty years of age, +dark-complexioned, with high cheek-bones, small black eyes, a +prominent nose, and a scanty beard. His meagre figure was +wrapped in a long dark-blue silk khalat, buttoned across his +chest; in a leather girdle, adorned with a silver buckle, he +carried his knife, flint, and steel. His helmet-shaped +black silk cap was trimmed with black velvet, and looked very gay +with its two broad red ribbons hanging down behind. This +brave costume was completed by a pair of high-heeled, +madder-coloured boots. As for the women, one wore a robe of +black velvet, the other a khalat of red and green silk; the waist +of each was defined by a broad red sash. Their hair was +fantastically coiffured, falling upon their shoulders in a +hundred small plaits, some of which glittered with coral beads, +the principal toilette ornament of the Mongolian women. +Their red leather boots were very short and high at the heels, so +that they walked as badly and awkwardly as English ladies. +The children wore little more than nature had provided them with; +except that, by rolling in the mud, they contrived to coat their +bodies with reddish ochre, in striking contrast to their elfin +locks of jet black.</p> +<p>Externally the yourts of the Kalkas resemble those of the +Kalmucks, but they differ in the arrangements of the +interior. A small low table is <a name="page215"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 215</span>placed opposite the doorway, and +upon it the upper idols, or household gods, and several small +metal vases, are set out. In some are kept grains of +millet; in others, butter, milk, and koumis—offerings to +the aforesaid deities. On the left side of this altar stand +the boxes which contain the family property, and near them +various domestic utensils and the indispensable koumis bag. +Opposite lie several piles of voilock, on which the family take +their rest.</p> +<p>Immediately on Mr. Atkinson’s arrival a sheep was slain +to do him honour, and it was soon steaming in the iron caldron, +with the exception of a portion broiled for his special +delectation. Supper, however, was not served in the +chief’s yourt, but in another; to which everybody repaired +with appetites which suggested that they had fasted for +weeks. When the completest possible justice had been done +to the mutton, men, women, and children retired to their rude +couches.</p> +<p>Next morning our indefatigable traveller was once more in the +saddle. We cannot follow him in all the details of his +daily journeyings, which necessarily bore a close resemblance to +one another; but we may accompany him on a visit to the great +Kalkas chief, Darma Tsyren. On entering his yourt, Mr. +Atkinson was entertained with tea-soup as usual. Then, he +says—</p> +<p>“The chief sat down in front of me, and the two young +men who had conducted me sat near him—they were his +sons. Beyond these sat ten or twelve other Kalkas, watching +my movements with intense interest. I was undoubtedly the +first European they had ever seen. My large felt hat, +shooting jacket, <a name="page216"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +216</span>and long boots, will be remembered for years to +come—not that I think they admired the costume; theirs is +far more picturesque. Presently a number of women came into +the yourt, and at their head the wife of the chief. She sat +down near him, and was joined by her daughter; the others got +places where they could; but the gaze of all was upon me. +No doubt it would have been highly amusing could I have +understood their remarks, as they kept up an incessant +talking.</p> +<p>“At this moment a Cossack brought my samovar into the +yourt; and these people were much astonished to see the steam +puffing out, with no fire under it. One man placed his hand +on the top, and got his fingers burnt, to the great amusement of +his friends. My dinner of broiled venison was brought in on +a bright tin plate; this and the knife and fork excited their +curiosity—such articles being quite new to them. They +watched me eat my dinner, and nothing could induce them to move +till the plates were taken away. Darma Tsyren had ordered a +sheep to be killed, which had now been some time in the +caldron. When the announcement was made that it was ready, +I was soon left to myself; the whole aul, men, women, and +children, were shortly enjoying the feast.”</p> +<p>From Darma Tsyren Mr. Atkinson obtained the loan of four +Kalkas and twelve horses, and taking also two of his Kalmucks and +two Cossacks, he started on a journey to the river Toss. In +the evening he and his party encamped in a pretty valley, watered +by a small lake, which supplied them with some snipes and ducks +for supper. During the night a pack of wolves visited the +encampment. On receiving warning of their approach by a +distant howl, Mr. Atkinson <a name="page217"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 217</span>loaded his double-barrelled gun and +distributed ammunition among his people, in order to give the +unwelcome visitors a warm reception. The horses were +collected, and picketed in a spot between the camp and the +lake. Nearer and nearer came the enemy; the tramp of their +feet could be heard as they galloped forward. They reached +the camp, and through the night air rang their ferocious +howl. Some dry bushes flung on the fire kindled a sudden +flame, which revealed their gaunt figures, with eyes flashing and +ears and tails erect; and immediately a deadly volley crashed +into their midst. With a yell of pain and terror they +turned tail; and Mr. Atkinson and his party hastened to reload +their guns, feeling certain they would return.</p> +<p>The fire flickered down among its embers, and for a time all +was silent. Then arose a stir and an alarm among the +horses; and it was discovered that the pack had divided, one +division stealing upon the animals from the water side, the other +interposing between them and the camp. A rush and a shout +of the Kalmucks and Kalkas drove them back; and a Cossack and a +Kalmuck wore posted on each flank, to guard the approaches and +give the alarm. Moreover, the fire was replenished, and its +glare lighted up the scene for miles around. A hush, and a +moment of expectation! Then might you see the hungry pack +advancing once more to the assault, with eyeballs glaring like +red-hot iron. A crack of rifles on the right was followed +by Mr. Atkinson’s two barrels, one of which brought down +its victim, while the other, discharged into the midst of the +pack, wounded two or three. Gradually the growling ceased; +the wolves <a name="page218"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +218</span>again retired; but both Kalkas and Kalmucks advised +that a close watch should be kept, as they would certainly make a +third effort.</p> +<p>There was little fuel left, and it was necessary, therefore, +to be doubly vigilant. The night was one of deep darkness, +without moon or stars, and nothing could be seen, even at a short +distance, except towards the lake, where a shimmer of dubious +light rested on the waters. Keen ears and eyes were on the +alert, but no sight or sound of wolf rewarded their +watchfulness. The Kalkas said the wolves were simply +waiting until all was silent in the camp to make another dash at +the horses. For a long time, however, no movement was made, +when two of the horses grew uneasy, tugging at the thongs and +snorting loudly. At the same time, the clouds cleared from +the sky, and the stars peering forth threw more light upon the +lake. Howling was heard in the distance, and Tchuck-a-bir +declared that another pack of wolves was approaching. As +they drew near, the former pack, still lurking in the shades, +began to growl, and it seemed possible that a combined attack +would be delivered. In order to renew the fire, four of the +men, two being armed, crept along the margin of the lake, +returning in about ten minutes, each with an armful of +fuel. The embers were stirred into life, and the brushwood +placed ready to be blown into a flame when wanted. Suddenly +a great tumult arose; the other wolves had come on the scene, and +the echoes rang with a medley of discordant sounds. Again +the watchers waited; and after their patience had been tested for +half an hour, the horses began to pull and plunge in frenzied +terror. The bushes were lighted, and by <a +name="page219"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 219</span>their blaze +Mr. Atkinson saw a group of eight to ten wolves within fifteen +paces. He fired both barrels at them; his men also fired; +and the herd, with a frightful howl, ignominiously fled. At +daylight Mr. Atkinson examined the scene of action, and found the +carcases of eight wolves. With their skins as trophies, he +returned to Darma Tsyren’s aul.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>A day or two later, Mr. Atkinson had an adventure with +boars. Leaving four men to guard the camp, he had ridden +out, with five followers, in search of sport. Plunging into +a thick copse of long grass and low bushes, they started more +than one boar from his lair, and tracing them by their motion in +the herbage, galloped in hot pursuit. As they emerged into +the open, they could see two large dark grizzly boars about a +couple of hundred yards ahead, and spurred after them with might +and main. Rapidly they gained upon the panting brutes, and +when within about fifty yards, Mr. Atkinson and a Cossack sprang +from their horses, fired, and wounded one of the boars. +While they reloaded, the rest of the party galloped on, and +presently other shots wore fired. The boars had separated: +one, dashing across the valley, was followed up by two of the +men; the other was pursued by Mr. Atkinson and his Cossack. +After a splendid chase, they drew near enough to see the foam on +his mouth, and his large tusks gnashing with rage. The +Cossack fired; the ball hit him, but did not check his wild, +impetuous course. Swiftly Mr. Atkinson urged on his horse, +got abreast of the animal at about twenty paces distant, and +lodged a bullet in his shoulder. This stopped him, but it +took two more shots to kill <a name="page220"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 220</span>him. He proved to be a noble +fellow, weighing nine poods, or about 324 lbs., with long, sharp +tusks, which would have been formidable weapons in a close +encounter.</p> +<p>Leaving the Cossack and a Kalmuck to dress the prize and +convey it to the camp, Mr. Atkinson, after reloading his arms, +hastened to join the rest of his party, who were in full chase on +the other side of the river, at a distance of about three +versts. He rode briskly forward, but the hunt was at an end +before he reached the river. His followers, on joining him, +announced that they had killed a large boar, though not the one +first started. He had escaped, and while they were +searching for his trail amid some reeds and bushes, a large boar +sprang in among them, and charged at a Cossack’s +horse. When within three or four paces of his intended +victim he was stopped by a bullet from Tchuck-a-bir’s +rifle; but he got away before a second shot could be fired, and +an animated chase began. He received several balls, but +they seemed to have no effect on his impenetrable hide. +Rushing into the river, he swam across, at a point where it +expanded into a deep broad pool; the men followed him, and a ball +from one of the Kalmucks inflicted a severe wound. Furious +with rage and pain, he dashed full at the man who had wounded +him; the Kalmuck dexterously wheeled his horse aside, and a ball +from Tchuck-a-bir laid the monster dead. With two large +boars as the spoils of their prowess, Mr. Atkinson and his +“merry men” returned to camp triumphant.</p> +<p>Mr. Atkinson next travelled in a southerly direction for two +days; after which he turned to the west, and <a +name="page221"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 221</span>struck upon +the river Ouremjour; his object being to enter the Gobi to the +north of the great chain of the Thian-Chan, or, as he calls them, +Syan-Shan Mountains. These are the highest in Central Asia, +and amongst them rises that stupendous mass, Bogda Oöla, +with the volcanoes Pe-shan and Hothaou, to see which was his +leading purpose and aim. He gives an animated description +of his approach to the Syan-Shan. A bright sun was rising +behind the wayfarer, but its rays had not yet gilded the snowy +peaks in his front. As he rode onward he watched for the +first bright gleam that lighted up the ice and snow on Bogda +Oöla; presently the great crest reddened with a magical +glow, which gradually spread over the rugged sides, and as it +descended, changed into yellow and then into silvery white. +For many minutes Bogda Oöla was bathed in sunshine before +the rays touched any of the lower peaks. But in due time +summit after summit shot rapidly into the brave red light, and at +last the whole chain shone in huge waves of molten silver, though +a hazy gloom still clothed the inferior ranges. In these +atmospheric effects we cannot but recognize a marvellous grandeur +and impressiveness; there is something sublimely weird in the +sudden changes they work among the stupendous mountain +masses. Onward fared the traveller, obtaining a still finer +view of Bogda Oöla, and of some of the other peaks to the +west; but, as the day advanced, the clouds began to fold around +its head, and the huge peak was soon clothed with thick surging +wreaths of vapour. The lower range of the Syan-Shan is +picturesque in the extreme; jagged peaks stand out in bold relief +against the snow-shrouded masses, which tower up some <a +name="page222"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 222</span>eight to +ten thousand feet above them, while the latter are clothed with a +luminous purple mist that seems not to belong to this +world. Mr. Atkinson continued his route in a north-westerly +direction, towards one of the lower chains which run nearly +parallel with the Syan-Shan. Thence he could see the Bogda +Oöla in all its grand sublimity, and the volcanic peak +Pe-shan, with black crags outlined against the snow, still +further to the west; while beyond these a long line of +snow-capped summits melted into the vaporous distance.</p> +<p>In the course of his wanderings in Chinese Tartary, our +traveller saw much of the Kirghiz chiefs, the Sultans of the +steppes. On one occasion, while riding in the sterile +desert, he fell in with the aul of Sultan Ishonac Khan—a +stoutly built man, with strong-marked Kalmuck features, who, in +right of his descent from the famous Genghiz Khan, wore an +owl’s feather suspended from the top of his cap. His +costume was gallant and gay; Chinese silk, richly +embroidered.</p> +<p>About fifty versts to the south of Sultan Ishonac’s aul, +lie the Barluck Mountains, situated between the Tarbagatai and +the Alatou Mountains, and eastward of the small rocky chain of +the Ala-Kool, which extends some sixty versts from east to west, +and measures about twenty-five in breadth. The highest +summit is not more than three thousand feet above the +plain. Vegetation thrives on the lower slopes, but the +upper parts are gloomily bare. From Sultan Ishonac Khan Mr. +Atkinson obtained a loan of fresh horses, and of eight of his +Kirghiz to escort him to the Tarbagatai. A dreary ride <a +name="page223"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 223</span>it +was,—over sandy hills, through sandy valleys, where not +even a blade of grass was green. In many places the ground +was thickly covered with a saline incrustation, which the +horses’ feet churned up into a pungent dust, that filled +every mouth and caused intolerable thirst. Welcome was the +glimmer of a lake that relieved by its sparkle the dulness of the +landscape; but when horse and man rushed forward to drink of its +waters, to their intense disappointment they found them bitter as +those of Marah. Not till the evening of the fifth day, when +they reached the river Eremil, did they enjoy the luxury of fresh +water.</p> +<p>Next day they reached the Tarbagatai, in the neighbourhood of +the Chinese town of Tchoubuchack, and encamped for the night at +the foot of a great tumulus or barrow, about one hundred and +fifty feet high, which is surrounded by many smaller +barrows. They are the last resting-places of a Kirghiz +chief and his people, who belonged to a remote generation, and to +a race of which these tumuli are the only memorials. +Another day’s ride, and they arrived at the aul of Sultan +Iamantuck, of whom and his family Mr. Atkinson speaks as by far +the most intelligent people he met with in this part of +Asia. The aul was pitched among high conical tombs of +sun-burnt bricks, the cemetery of the Sultan’s ancestors; +and it appears that once a year it was regularly visited by their +pious descendant and representative. With another relay of +horses and a fresh Kirghiz escort, Mr. Atkinson dashed onward, +undeterred by the dreariness of the sandy level, where neither +water nor grass was to be found, and the only living things were +tarantulas and scorpions. His course lay direct for the +Alatou <a name="page224"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +224</span>(“Variegated Mountains”), and he could see +the shining peaks of the Actou (“White Mountain”), +which forms its highest crest, and raises its summits fourteen to +fifteen thousand feet above the sea. After fording the +broad deep stream of the Yeljen-sa-gash, he arrived on the shore +of Lake Ala-kool, measuring about sixty-five versts in length by +twenty in width, with a rocky island near the north shore, +erroneously described by Humboldt as the site of a volcano. +It has no outlet, yet it receives the tribute of eight rivers; +the water is carried off by evaporation.</p> +<p>Here Mr. Atkinson struck westward to find the aul of Sultan +Bak, the Rothschild of the steppes; a man who owns ten thousand +horses, and a proportionate number of camels, sheep, and +oxen. Wealthy men are not always well disposed towards +stranger guests, and Sultan Bak evinced his dislike of intrusion +by sending Mr. Atkinson a diseased sheep! This was +immediately returned, with an intimation that Mr. Atkinson wanted +neither his company nor his gifts; he was the first Sultan who +had shown himself so discourteous, and though he had a large +body, it was clear his heart was that of a mouse. It is not +surprising that a message of this kind provoked him to +wrath. He ordered the intruders to quit his aul; if they +did not, his men should drive them into the lake. But when +he found that they were well armed, that discretion which is the +better part of valour enabled him to subdue his temper; he sent +one of his finest sheep as a peace-offering, with an assurance +that they might stay as long as they liked, and should have men +and horses when they left. Evidently the Kirghiz patriarch +knew how to make the best of a bad situation.</p> +<p><a name="page225"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +225</span>Accompanied by his poet, he paid a visit to Mr. +Atkinson’s camp, supped heartily off his own mutton, and +exchanged the warmest professions of friendship. The +minstrel, at his master’s bidding, sang wild songs to +wilder tunes in glorification of the prowess and freebooting +expeditions of the Sultan and his ancestors, to the great +edification of the listening Kirghiz. So the evening passed +peacefully, and the Sultan and the white man parted on cordial +terms. Next day, Mr. Atkinson was riding towards the +Karatou, a mountainous chain of dark purple slate; and six days +later he visited Sultan Boubania, on the river Lepson. In +the neighbourhood were many large tumuli, the largest being the +most ancient. One of these was built up of stone, and +formed a circle of 364 feet in diameter, with a dome-like mound +thirty-three feet in height. Tradition has not preserved +the name of the dead honoured with so extraordinary a memorial; +the Kirghiz attribute it to demons working under the direction of +Shaitan. Another kind of tumulus, of more recent +construction, was circular in plan, but carried up to the height +of fifty-four feet, in the shape of “a blast +furnace,” with an aperture at the top, and lateral opening +two feet square and four feet from the ground. In the +interior were two graves covered with large blocks of +stone. According to the Kirghiz, these tombs were built by +the people who inhabited the country before the Kalmucks. A +third kind, of sunburnt bricks, and Mohammedan in design, are +ascribed to Timour Khan and his race.</p> +<p>Through the rocky gorge of the Balïïtz, Mr. Atkinson +commenced his ascent of the Alatou. His eye rested with +pleasure on the richly coloured rocks <a name="page226"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 226</span>that composed the cliffs on either +side—deep red porphyry, flecked with veins of white; slate, +jasper, and basalt. He explored several of the valleys that +break up the lower mass of the mountain chain, and rode along +many of its elevated ridges. Sometimes the roar of torrents +filled his ears; sometimes bright streams and sources sparkled in +the sunshine; sometimes he saw before him a fair mosaic of wild +flowers; sometimes the landscape was ennobled by the conspicuous +figures of white mountain peaks, relieved by a background of deep +blue sky; sometimes the distant vapours hovered wraith-like above +the calm surface of Lake Tengiz. From a plateau not far +beneath the line of perpetual snow he obtained a noble view of +the Actou, and, to the south, of the lofty and picturesque peaks +of the Alatou; while, nearer at hand, the river Ara poured its +thunderous waters into a gorge some thousand feet in depth. +The plateau was covered with tumuli; one of which, measuring two +hundred feet in diameter and forty feet in height, was enclosed +within a trench, twelve feet wide and six feet deep. On the +west side stood four masses of large stones in circles; the +altars, perhaps, on which, long ago, victims were sacrificed to +appease some sanguinary deity. It is a tradition of the +Kirghiz that these antiquities belonged to a native who, for some +unknown cause, determined on a great act of murder and +self-destruction, and that they were constructed before the +terrible work was begun. They say that the father killed +his wife and all his children, excepting the eldest son, on whom +devolved the duty of killing, first his father, and then +himself.</p> +<p>Mr. Atkinson visited, near the river Kopal, the <a +name="page227"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 227</span>Arasan, or +warm spring, which wells up in the centre Of a ravine formed of +yellow and purple marbles. Its temperature, all round the +year, is 29′ R. or 97° F. Here, in a remote past, +the Kalmucks built a bath, which is still frequented by Tartars, +Kirghiz, and Chinese. The waters, it is said, are +wonderfully beneficial for scurvy and other cutaneous +disorders.</p> +<p>Another route carried him to the Tamchi-Boulac, or +“Dropping Spring,” at the foot of the Alatou. +The water oozes out of columnar cliffs in myriads of tiny streams +that glitter like showers of diamonds; while in some parts they +seem changed to drops of liquid fire by the reflected colouring +of the rocks, which vary in colour from a bright yellow to a deep +red.</p> +<p>For one hundred and three days Mr. Atkinson wandered among the +Alatou Mountains, exploring peak, precipice, valley, and ravine; +surveying torrent and river and waterfall; now ascending far +above the line of perpetual snow, now descending into warm and +sheltered woods, where the greensward was enamelled with +blossoms. From the eastern end of the Alatou, a seventeen +days’ ride over hill and steppe brought him to the Russian +frontier and the comforts of civilization at Semipalatinsk. +But, almost as strongly possessed with the spirit of continuous +motion as the Wandering Jew in the grim old legend, he next set +forth on a journey across Siberia, from its western boundary on +the Irtisch, to its Oriental capital, Irkutsk. In the +course of his long journey he visited the Saian Mountains; +ascended the valley of the Oka; explored a bed of lava and a +volcanic crater in the valley of the Ojem-a-louk; rode across the +rugged shoulder of Nouk-a-Daban; and descended <a +name="page228"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 228</span>the little +river Koultouk to Lake Baikal, or, as the natives call it, the +Holy Sea. Hiring a small boat, with a crew of seven men, he +crossed the lake to the mouth of the river Angara. Baikal +is the third largest lake in Asia—about four hundred miles +in length, and varying in breadth from nineteen miles to +seventy. Though fed by numerous streams, it has only one +outlet, the Angara, a tributary of the Yenisei. Lying deep +among the Baikal Mountains, an off-shoot of the Altai, it +presents some vividly coloured and striking scenery. Its +fisheries are valuable. In the great chain of communication +between Russia and China it holds an important place, and of late +years its navigation has been conducted by steamboats. The +native peoples inhabiting its borders are the Buriats and +Tungusians.</p> +<p>Mr. Atkinson spent eight and twenty days in exploring this +Alpine sea, and afterwards proceeded to Irkutsk. <a +name="citation228"></a><a href="#footnote228" +class="citation">[228]</a></p> +<h2><a name="page229"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +229</span>ALEXINA TINNÉ<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND HER WANDERINGS IN THE +SOUDAN.</span></h2> +<p><span class="smcap">About</span> 1862, letters from +Khartûm, the capital of Nubia, stimulated the curiosity of +European geographers by announcing that three courageous ladies +had undertaken a journey into Central Africa, with the view of +reaching those mysterious Sources of the Nile which, for +generations, had been the object of Western research. At +first the news was received with suspicion; many persons did not +hesitate to speak of it as a hoax; but incredulity vanished as +the information grew more copious and more precise, and it became +known that the guiding spirit of the adventure was a certain Miss +Alexandrina or Alexina Tinné, a lady of great personal +charms and very wealthy. It was then unanimously agreed +that she was one of those brave daughters of England who, in the +Continental belief, will go anywhere and do anything that is +hazardous or eccentric. And though of Dutch extraction she +really did owe something to English influences. Her father +was a Dutch merchant who, after acquiring an ample fortune in +Demerara, was naturalised in England, and finally settled at +Liverpool. He died while Alexina (born in October, <a +name="page230"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 230</span>1835) was +still a child, but the wealthy heiress was brought up by her +mother as befitted her social position. What impelled her, +in her young maidenhood, to plunge into the dangers of African +exploration—whether her action was due to a love of +adventure, a thirst after knowledge, a spirit rebelling against +the conventionalisms of society, or to baffled hope and slighted +affection—does not seem to be known. But it is +certain that about 1859 she set out from the Hague, accompanied +by her mother and aunt, and visited various parts of Egypt and +Syria. For some months she resided at Beirut and Tripoli; +next she repaired to Damascus; afterwards, to the ruins of +Palmyra, haunted by the memory of Zenobia; and, finally, she +dreamed of imitating the romantic career of Lady Hester Stanhope, +and installing herself as Queen of the Lebanon. Her mood, +however, changed suddenly; she returned to Europe, not to resume +the monotonous habits of social life, but to make preparations +for an expedition in search of the Sources of the Nile.</p> +<p>In this daring project she appears to have been encouraged +partly by her own fearlessness of nature; partly by the example +of Mrs. Petherick, wife of the English consul at Khartûm, +whose fame had spread far and wide; and partly by the flattering +thought that it might be reserved for her, a woman, to succeed +where so many brave men had failed, and to be the first to solve +the great enigma of the Nilotic sphynx. What immortality +would be hers if she triumphed over every danger and difficulty, +and stood, where no European as yet had stood, on the margin of +the remote well-head, the long secret <a name="page231"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 231</span>spring, whence issued the waters of +Egypt’s historic river! It must be owned that in this +ambitious hope there was nothing mean or unworthy, and that it +could have been possible only to a high and courageous +nature.</p> +<p>She set out in the month of July, 1861, still accompanied by +her mother and her aunt, two ladies of mediocre character, who +readily yielded to the influence of a stronger mind. A part +of the winter was spent in a pleasant country house in one of the +suburbs of Cairo—a kind of palace of white marble, situated +in the midst of odorous gardens, and looking out upon the ample +Nile and the giant forms of the Pyramids. There they made +extensive preparations for the contemplated journey; while +Alexina spent many thoughtful hours in studying the map of +Africa, in tracing the sinuosities of the White Nile above its +point of junction with the Blue, in laying down the route which +should carry her and her companions into the regions of the great +lakes.</p> +<p>It was on the 9th of January, 1862, that she and her +companions directed their course towards Upper Egypt, voyaging in +three boats, attended by a numerous train of guides, guards, and +servants. In the largest and most commodious +“dahabeeyah” were installed the three ladies, with +four European servants and a Syrian cook. Alexina’s +journal, it is said, preserves many curious details in +unconscious illustration of the mixed character of the +expedition, which might almost have been that of a new Cleopatra +going to meet a new Mark Antony; we see the Beauty there as well +as the Heroine—the handsome woman who is mindful of her +toilette appliances, <a name="page232"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 232</span>as well as the courageous explorer, +who does not forget her rifle and cartridges.</p> +<p>Passing in safety the first cataract, Miss +Tinné’s expedition duly arrived at Kousko; where she +and her companions took a temporary leave of the Nile, tourists, +and civilization, and struck across the sandy desert of Kousko to +Abu-Hammed, in order to avoid the wide curve which the river +there makes to the westward. The caravan, besides Miss +Tinné’s domestics, included six guides and +twenty-five armed men. Of camels loaded with baggage and +provisions, and dromedaries which carried the members of her +suite, there were a hundred and ten. The desert did not +prove so dreary as it had been painted; sand and rock were often +relieved by patches of blooming vegetation; the monotony of the +plains was often broken by ridges of swelling hills. The +camels every evening browsed contentedly on the herbage, and +quenched their thirst in the basins of water that sparkled in the +rocky hollows.</p> +<p>The time usually required for crossing the desert is eight to +nine days; but as Alexina advanced very leisurely, by daily +stages not exceeding seven or eight hours, she occupied nearly +three weeks. In spite of this easy mode of travelling, her +mother was so fatigued that, on arriving at Abu-Hammed, on the +banks of the Nile, she insisted they should again take to the +river. A dahabeeyah was accordingly hired, along with six +stalwart boatmen, who swore on the Koran to keep pace with the +swiftest dromedaries. So while the caravan tramped onwards +through the burning, shifting sand, Alexina and her companions +voyaged up the Nile; but the rowers <a name="page233"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 233</span>soon proved false to their promises, +slackened their oars, and allowed the caravan to outstrip +them. When reproached with their lethargy, they excused +themselves on the score of the arduousness of their work and the +great heat of the sun.</p> +<p>Meanwhile, the caravan had made considerable progress, and at +nightfall tents were pitched and fires lighted. As no +dahabeeyah could be seen, men were sent in search of it; but in +vain. No news of it was obtained until the following day, +when it was ascertained that the Egyptian boatmen had at last +laid down their oars in sullen indolence, and that Miss +Tinné and her companions had been compelled to spend the +night in a Nubian village. The misadventure taught them the +lesson that in Eastern countries it is generally wiser to trust +to brutes than to men; the boatmen were dismissed, and the +travellers once more joined the caravan.</p> +<p>But the heat proved insupportable, driving them to make a +second experiment of the river traject. A boat was again +hired; again they embarked on the glittering Nile; and again an +evil fortune attended them. Instead of reaching Berber, as +they should have done, in four days, the voyage was extended to +over a week; but it was some compensation for their fatigue when, +at two hours’ march from the city, they were received by +some thirty chiefs, mounted upon camels, and attended by +janizaries in splendid attire, who, with much pomp and +circumstance, escorted them to the gates of Berber. There +they were received by the governor with every detail of Oriental +etiquette, installed in pavilions in his gardens, and waited upon +in a spirit of the most courteous hospitality. <a +name="page234"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 234</span>No longer +in need of a complete caravan, Miss Tinné dismissed her +camel-drivers; but, desirous of leaving upon their minds an +enduring impression, she rewarded them with almost prodigal +liberality. Her gold coins were so lavishly distributed, +that the Arabs, in surprise and delight, broke out into +unaccustomed salutations; and to this very day, remembering her +largesses, they sing of her glory, as if she had revived the +splendour of Palmyra.</p> +<p>There was a policy in this apparently thoughtless +profusion. As a natural result, her reputation everywhere +preceded her; hospitality was pressed upon her with an eagerness +which may have been dictated by selfish motives, but was not the +less acceptable to her and her companions. Women, gathering +round her, prostrated themselves at her feet. The young +girls danced merrily at her approach; they took her for a +princess, or, at least, they saluted her as such.</p> +<p>After a residence of some weeks at Berber, the adventurous +ladies hired three boats, and ascended the Nile to Khartûm, +the capital of the Egyptian Soudan. Situated at the +confluence of the White and Blue Nile, it is the centre of an +important commerce, and the rendezvous of almost all the caravans +of Nubia and the Upper Nile. Unfortunately, it is one of +the world’s <i>cloacinæ</i>, a kind of moral +cesspool, into which the filth and uncleanness of many nations +pours—Italians, Germans, Frenchmen, Englishmen, whom their +own countries have repudiated; political gamblers, who have +played their best card and failed; fraudulent bankrupts, +unscrupulous speculators, men who have nothing to hope, nothing +to lose, and are too callous to fear. The great scourge of +the place, <a name="page235"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +235</span>down to a very recent date, was the cruel +slave-traffic, at that time carried on with the connivance of the +Egyptian Government. Recently the energetic measures of +Colonel Gordon have done much towards the extirpation of this +cancerous growth, and even the moral atmosphere of the town has +been greatly purified. To Alexina Tinné the place +was sufficiently loathsome; but a residence of some weeks’ +duration, while preparations were made for the advance into +Central Africa, was imperative. She did what she could to +avoid coming into contact with the “society” of +Khartûm, and exerted all her energies to stimulate the +labours of her subordinates, so that she might depart at the +earliest possible moment. At length, provisions were +collected, and a supply of trinkets to be used as gifts or in +barter; an escort of thirty-eight men, including ten soldiers +fully armed, and all bearing a good character for +trustworthiness, was engaged; and, finally, she hired for the +heavy sum of ten thousand francs, a small steamboat, belonging to +Prince Halim. With a glad heart she quitted Khartûm, +and resumed the ascent of the White Nile, passing through a +succession of landscapes fair and fertile. As for the +river, its quiet beauty charmed her; and she compared it to +Virginia Lake, the pretty basin of water that sparkles in the +leafy shades of Windsor Forest. Its banks are richly +clothed with trees, chiefly gumtrees, which frequently attain the +dimensions of the oak. But the graceful tamarisk is also +abundant, and myriads of shrubs furnish the blue ape with a +refuge and a home. The air glitters with the many-coloured +wings of swarms of birds. On the bright surface of the +stream spread the broad leaves and <a name="page236"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 236</span>white petals of colossal lilies, +among which the hippopotamus and the crocodile pursue their +unwieldy gambols.</p> +<p>How marvellous the effects of colour when this magical scene +is bathed in the hot rays of the sunshine! Through the +transparent air every object is seen with a distinct outline, and +the sense of distance is overcome. Where a shadow falls it +is defined as sharply as on canvas; there is no softening or +confusing mist; you see everything as in a mirror. In the +noontide heats all nature is as silent here as in a virgin +forest; but when the cool breath of evening begins to be felt, +and that luminous darkness, which is the glory of a summer night +in Central Africa, spreads softly over the picture, the multiform +life of earth swiftly re-awakens; birds and butterflies hover in +the air, the monkeys chatter merrily, and leap from bough to +bough. The sounds which then break forth—song and hum +and murmur, the roll of the river, the din of insects, the cries +of the wild beasts—seem all to mingle in one grand vesper +hymn, proclaiming the might and majesty of the Creator. +These are generally hushed as the night wears on; and then +myriads of fireflies and glow-worms light their tiny torches and +illuminate the dark with a magical display; while the air is +charged with sweet and subtle odours exhaled from the corollas of +the plants which open only during the cool and tranquil +hours.</p> +<p>While slowly making her way up the river, Alexina encountered +an Egyptian pasha, who was returning with a booty of slaves from +a recent razzia. She eagerly implored him to set the +unhappy captives <a name="page237"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +237</span>free, and when her solicitations failed, purchased +eight of the poor creatures, to whom she immediately gave their +liberty, supplying them also with provisions. This has been +termed an act of Quixotism; it was rather one of generous womanly +enthusiasm, and to our thinking redeems the failings of Alexina +Tinné’s character—compensates for the follies +and frivolities which encumbered her enterprise. Her heart +was true to every gentle impulse, and she ceased not to suffer +keenly at the sight of the wretched condition of the poor negroes +who fell victims to an unholy traffic.</p> +<p>This traffic had aroused such feelings of hatred and revenge +in the breasts of the riverine tribes of the Nile, that the +passage of the river had become very dangerous, and the journey +by land almost impossible. The natives looked upon every +white man as a Turk and a slave-dealer; and when a boat appeared +on the horizon, mothers cried with terror to their children, +“The Tourké, the Tourké are +coming!” The scarlet tarbouch, or fez, added to the +repulsion. “It is the colour of blood just +spilled,” said a negro to his family. “It never +fades,” they said; “the Turk renews it constantly in +the blood of the poor black men.”</p> +<p>Fortunately, they were able to distinguish between the boats +of the slave-dealers and Alexina Tinné’s +steamer. Twice or thrice they approached the latter; at +first not without fear, but afterwards with good courage. +“Is the young lady who commands,” they asked, +“the Sultan’s sister? Does she come to assist +or to persecute us?” When fully informed of the +object of her pacific expedition, they rapidly grew familiar and +ventured on board her boat. “Since you <a +name="page238"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 238</span>mean no +evil against us,” they cried, “we will do <i>you</i> +no harm; we will love you!” They accepted from her +hands a cup of tea, and courteously drank it without manifesting +their repugnance; and they explained to her their usages and +manners, and supplied her with interesting information respecting +the surrounding country. Her reception was so much to her +mind, that she would have remained for some time among this +kindly people, had she not felt bound to prosecute her journey to +the south.</p> +<p>Once more the sails were unfurled, the fires lighted, and the +steamer ploughed its steady course towards the land of the +Derikas. Two or three villages were seen on the river +banks, but the landscape was bare and bland, and the adventurous +Alexina pursued her voyage until she reached Mount Hunaya. +There she landed and pitched her tents. When it was known +to be her design to remain in this encampment during the rainy +season, her followers raised a vehement opposition, protesting +that they would be devoured by lions or trampled to death by +elephants. Their mistress, however, remained firm in her +intention; but as the steamer was in need of repair, she sent it +back to Khartûm in charge of her aunt.</p> +<p>It was during this lady’s enforced residence at +Khartûm that she made the acquaintance of an Englishman and +his wife, whose names have become household words in every +civilized nation—Sir Samuel and Lady Baker. Sir +Samuel, who belongs to the illustrious company of African +explorers, began his career of adventure by founding an +agricultural colony at Nuvera Ellia—that is, six thousand +feet above the sea, among the breezy mountain peaks <a +name="page239"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 239</span>of +Ceylon. In 1855 he visited the Crimea, and afterwards he +was engaged in superintending in Turkey the organization of its +first railway. In 1861 he started with his wife on a +journey of discovery in Central Africa, with the design of +meeting the Government expedition, which, under Captain Speke, +had been despatched in search of the Nile sources. In +nearly a year he and his wife explored the Abyssinian highlands, +which form the cradle of the Blue Nile, arriving at Khartûm +in June, 1862. There he collected a large company to ascend +the Upper Nile, and setting out in December, 1862, he reached +Gondokoro in February, 1863, in time to meet Captain Speke and +Grant returning victoriously from their discovery of the Victoria +Nyanza. Baker furnished them with the means of transport to +Khartûm, and then pushed forward across a district infested +by slave-hunters, until he fell in with a great fresh-water +basin, the Luta N’zize, which he christened the Albert +Lake, or Nyanza, and ascertained to be one of the chief +reservoirs or feeders of the Nile. He returned to England +in 1866. Three years later, he accepted from the Khedive of +Egypt the command of a military force, with unlimited powers, for +the purpose of annexing savage Africa to the civilized world, and +opening up its fertile lake-regions to the enterprise of +legitimate commerce. The work, which was well done, +occupied him until 1873, and was afterwards carried on by Colonel +Gordon.</p> +<p>In all his adventures, which, as we shall see, were often of a +most critical character, Sir Samuel was accompanied by his wife, +whose sympathy consoled, while her example inspired him. +This brave and <a name="page240"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +240</span>chivalrous lady gave abundant proof of her heroic +courage, her devoted affection, and her indomitable +resolution.</p> +<p>When the repairs of her vessel were completed, Alexina +Tinné returned to Gebel Hunaya. She was received +with shouts of joy, and with a salute of several pieces of +artillery, which awakened the greatest trepidation among the +natives. Some few incidents had occurred during her +absence, but none of a very notable character. One morning, +Alexina was reading at a short distance from the camp. +Feeling thirsty, she turned towards a rivulet which sparkled +among the herbage close at hand; but as she approached it, the +dog which accompanied her barked loudly with affright, and showed +a manifest unwillingness to draw nearer to the rocks impending +over the stream. Accepting this intimation of danger, +Alexina stepped forward very cautiously, and soon discovered a +young panther lurking behind the rugged boulders. She had +the presence of mind to stand perfectly still, while she summoned +her soldiers and servants to her assistance. They speedily +came up, and, drawing a cordon round the animal, succeeded in +capturing it alive. On another occasion, her men killed, +before her eyes, a huge crocodile, which was duly stuffed as a +trophy. They also caught a great ape, whose head was +covered with long hair, mixed black and white. The animal +would have been a valuable specimen of the African fauna, but, +unfortunately, it died within a few months of its capture.</p> +<p>On the 7th of July, the steamer, which was heavily loaded and +towed two boats, left Hunaya, to continue its course up the +river. Between Hunaya and the <a name="page241"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 241</span>confluence of the Bahr-el-Ghazal +(the Gazelle river) the scenery is far from being attractive; the +river banks are arid, and sunburnt. Here and there, +however, grow clumps of whispering reeds and aquatic plants; +while, at other points, the river overflows its limits for two or +three thousand yards, creating, on each side, an inaccessible +swamp.</p> +<p>The voyagers did not pause until they reached the settlement +of an Arab chief, named Mohammed-Cher, who by his audacity had +subjected the neighbouring tribes, and ruled supreme over this +part of the Soudan. When, as frequently happened, he was in +want of money, he exercised the right of the strong hand, and, at +the head of his freebooters, sallied forth; destroying villages, +slaying the male inhabitants, seizing upon the women and +children, and carrying off the cattle. He loved to surround +himself with barbaric pomp, and paraded upon a magnificent horse, +the saddle of which was embroidered with gold and silver, and +sparkled with precious stones. But when our voyagers +arrived at his village, this great warrior showed signs of +recreancy; he was terrified by the Turkish soldiers who occupied +the steamer’s deck. It was supposed to be owing to +this spasm of alarm that he received the ladies with royal +honours, sending them sheep, oxen, fruit, vegetables, dancers, +archæological curiosities; in short, he seemed anxious to +offer them all he possessed. Afterwards, however, the +secret of his ready liberality came out; the swarthy chieftain +thought he was doing honour to the favourite daughter of the +Grand Turk—in his zeal, he was anxious to proclaim her +Queen of the Soudan.</p> +<p><a name="page242"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 242</span>When +his visitors were taking leave, he strongly advised them not to +advance further to the south. “Take care,” said +he, “you do not come into collision with the Shillooks, who +are our sworn enemies, and the enemies of all who cross their +frontiers. Take care that they do not set fire to your +boats, as they have already done to all vessels coming from +Khartûm.”</p> +<p>In spite of these warnings, Alexina Tinné resolutely +continued her voyage, and, a few days later, anchored off a +Shillook village. The sailors, frightened by +Mohammed’s story, would not approach it; she therefore +landed with only an interpreter, an officer, and an escort of ten +soldiers. But the news of the arrival of a daughter of the +Sultan had preceded her, and instead of being received as an +enemy, she was welcomed with every demonstration of +respect. The Shillooks, as is the case with savage tribes +in all parts of the world, endeavour to engage every stranger in +their personal enmities; and they now hoped to secure the +assistance of the expedition against that terrible Mohammed-Cher, +who, only a few days before, had shown so much anxiety to +proclaim the European lady Queen of the Soudan. When she +refused to join in their campaign, their disappointment was +extreme. All travellers speak warmly of this unfortunate +tribe, who suffer scarcely less from Europeans than from +Arabs. The conditions under which they live are very +pitiful; wherever they turn, they are met by enemies. +Constantly falling victims to the cruelty of the slave-hunters, +it is no wonder that they regard with suspicion, and too often +treat with ferocity, the strangers who come <a +name="page243"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 243</span>among them; +naturally implicating them in the traffic by which they suffer so +severely. The slave-hunting abomination is, we must repeat, +the mortal wound of Central Africa; it impedes commercial +enterprise, and paralyzes the efforts of the pioneers of +Christian civilization. Let us hope that, in the lake +regions, the vigorous action of Colonel Gordon has greatly +diminished, if it has not absolutely rooted out, the evil.</p> +<p>Pressing southward with unshaken resolution, Alexina +Tinné reached at length the junction of the Sobat with the +Nile. She resolved to ascend that tributary as far as it +was navigable, calculating that the <i>excursus</i>, going and +returning, would occupy seven or eight days. The valley of +the Sobat is more interesting in character than much of the +course of the White Nile. Its broad pastures, stretching +away to the distant horizon, teem with flocks of ostriches and +herds of giraffes. The river banks are thickly indented by +the heavy hoofs of elephants, and the colossal animals themselves +wander freely over the uplands. For some weeks the voyagers +lingered in the Sobat, well pleased with its succession of +striking scenes; and then they steamed up the Nile again, until +they reached the mouth of the Bahr-el-Ghazal, the majestic stream +which, with slow current, traverses Lake Nû.</p> +<p>Here the Nile strikes sharply towards the south, forming a +complete right angle; and broadens into an imposing expanse of +shining waters.</p> +<p>The flora of the surrounding country is very picturesque: +tamarinds, mimosas, climbing plants, the papyruses, and the +euphorbias thrive in unchecked <a name="page244"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 244</span>luxuriance, as they have thriven for +countless centuries, and blend together their thick growth of +various foliage. The colouring of the flowers is often so +intense that the eye aches in contemplating it. It should +be added that the euphorbia, which is very common in this region, +yields a poisonous milky juice, in which the natives dip their +arrows. A scratch from one of these envenomed weapons will +rapidly prove mortal.</p> +<p>Beyond Lake Nû, the White Nile breaks into an intricate +series of curves and meanders, pouring its waters downwards with +violent swiftness. Such, indeed, was the strength of the +flood, that the steamer was compelled to throw off the +towing-rope of the two dahabiehs, and the sailors and servants +landed in order to haul them against the stream. But in the +greatest stress of the current the rope broke, and the boats, +drifting away, were threatened with destruction. Osman Aga, +a resolute and courageous soldier, who was on the deck of the +steamer, seized another rope and leaped instantly into the +river. With vigorous strokes he made for the shore. +He had almost gained it, and had flung the rope to his expectant +comrades, when he suddenly disappeared. After a while his +dead body was found, and immediate preparations were made to give +it an honourable burial. Wrapped round, according to the +custom of the country, with twenty yards of calico, it was +interred, in the presence of the whole crew, at the foot of a +patriarchal tree, on the trunk of which was cut a commemorative +inscription.</p> +<p>Some days after this melancholy event, the expedition ascended +the river to Heiligenkreuz, where <a name="page245"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 245</span>some Austrian Catholic missionaries +have founded a settlement. Remaining there until the 15th +of September, Alexina Tinné made a short excursion into +the interior, crossing rivers, traversing forests, and meeting +with numerous villages, half hidden in leafiness.</p> +<p>As the voyagers approached Gondokoro, they observed that the +panoramas assumed a grander character; that the landscapes were +on a loftier scale. Tropical forests extended their deep +shades along the river banks; and sometimes in their recesses it +was possible to catch sight of the remains of ancient buildings, +at one time, perhaps, inhabited by a busy race. Gondokoro, +long regarded as the <i>Ultima Thule</i> of the Nile Valley, was +reached on the 30th of September. It proved to be the +extreme southward limit of Alexina Tinné’s +explorations. She ardently longed to advance—to share +some of the glory resting upon the names of Speke and Grant, +Baker and Petherick—to see with her own eyes the immense +basin of the Victorian Sea—to trace to its well-head the +course of the Nile; but the obstacles thrown in her way proved +insurmountable. Moreover, most of her followers were seized +with malarious fever, and she herself had an attack, which for +some days held her life in danger. When she recovered, she +began to study the habits and manners of the native tribes +residing in the neighbourhood of Gondokoro. They are all +Baris, and very ignorant and superstitious, but not naturally +cruel. No trade flourishes among them like that of the +sorcerer, who is also the medicine-man. When a Bari falls +ill, he hastens to consult the Punok, who gives him some absurd +but <a name="page246"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +246</span>infallible recipe, and the cure is effected! One +of these magicians succeeded in persuading the negroes that he +was invulnerable. Oxen, sheep, and presents of all kinds +were poured into his willing hands; but unluckily he declaimed +against the expeditions of the Egyptians, who, not having any +sense of humour, put him to death. His dupes, gathering +round his dead body, waited patiently for his resurrection; and +only began to doubt when the corpse putrefied.</p> +<p>Among the Bari sorcerers a high rank is held by the +“rain-maker”—a personage of great repute, to +whom the villagers bring oxen, fruits, and trinkets, in days of +drought, to bribe him to invoke the clouds and their treasures of +fertilizing rain. But his position is not without its +inconveniences; if, after the performance of his rites, the +drought continues, the people assemble at his house, drag him +forth, and without more ado, cut open the stomach of the +unfortunate Kodjour, on the plea that the storms must be shut up +in it, as they make no external manifestation. Few are the +years in which one of these rain-makers does not perish, unless +he has the wit to escape out of danger before his deception is +discovered.</p> +<p>From Gondokoro Alexina Tinné returned without delay to +Khartûm, where she received the congratulations of the +European community; but her rest was not of long duration. +She had nothing of the lotos-eater in her temperament, and could +find contentment only in action. Hers was the true +traveller’s character—energetic, active, daring, +tenacious, with an insatiable thirst for new scenes. +Thwarted in her first design, she immediately took up +another. She would ascend the great western <a +name="page247"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 247</span>tributary +of the Nile, the Bahr-el-Ghazal, explore the streams which feed +it, and penetrate into the land of the Nyam-nyam, of whom Doctor +Heughlin has furnished so interesting an account. Her +preparations were soon completed. This time she and her +mother—her aunt remained at Khartûm—did not +travel alone; their expedition was reinforced by three +experienced travellers, Doctor Heughlin, the naturalist, Doctor +Steudner, and Baron d’Ablaing. The first two started +in advance, so as to open up the route for the adventurous +Alexina, who, with her mother and Baron d’Ablaing, quitted +Khartûm at the end of February, 1863, in command of a +flotilla composed of a steamer, a sailing-vessel, and several +small boats.</p> +<p>Heughlin, who had set out some days before, passed, on the +31st of January, the Gebel Tefafan, a lofty mountain which rises +at no great distance from the river. He reached Lake +Nû—a point from which the voyager has more than two +hundred miles to accomplish across the Bahr-el-Ghazal. At +that time of the year the river in many places is as narrow as a +canal, though on both sides bordered by a swampy plain, which +stretches further than the eye can see, and bears a thick growth +of gigantic reeds. At other places it deepens into +considerable lakes.</p> +<p>The natives navigate it in light canoes, which they manage +with much dexterity. They sit astride the stem, with their +legs hanging down in the water; and if they fall in with no +branches capable of being converted into oars, they row with +their hands. The Nouers, who inhabit this land of marsh and +morass, furnish an apparent exemplification of the Darwinian <a +name="page248"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 248</span>theory: by +a process of natural selection they have become thoroughly +adapted to the conditions of a soil and climate which would +rapidly kill off an unaccustomed population. Their muscular +strength is remarkable; and they are a race of Anaks, averaging +from six to seven feet in height. Alexina Tinné +records that, in spite of the heat of a tropical sun, and the +attacks of swarms of insects, they would stand erect, with lance +in hand, on the summit of the mounds thrown up by termites, +anxiously watching the steamer and the boats in tow as they +passed by swiftly and steadily, against wave and current—a +type, shall we say? of the irresistible progress of +civilization.</p> +<p>While Doctor Heughlin, in the true scientific spirit, +industriously explored the banks of the Bahr-el-Ghazal, Alexina +Tinné was making a persistent effort to rejoin him. +Innumerable difficulties assailed her. When only a few +miles from Khartûm, her captain came to tell her, with +signs of the utmost terror, that the steamer was leaking, and +would shortly sink. Her alarm may easily be imagined; but +fortunately she was never wanting in presence of mind. She +gave orders that the cargo should be immediately unloaded; the +leak was repaired, and the voyage resumed. A few hours +later, and the vessel was again in danger, the water rushing in +with greater violence than before. A close investigation +was made, and then it was discovered that the pilot and captain +had each agreed to bore a hole in the ship’s hull, with the +view of putting a stop to a voyage which they, as well as the +crew, dreaded. But our heroine was not to be +conquered. She at once dismissed a part of the crew, <a +name="page249"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 249</span>and sent +away both the captain and the pilot; then, with men pledged to be +true to her, she sailed away resolutely for the +Bahr-el-Ghazal.</p> +<p>At first, she made but slow progress, on account of the mass +of tall dense grasses and aquatic plants that choked up the +stream. In many places it was necessary to clear a way for +the steamer with knife and axe. In the sun-baked mud grisly +crocodiles swarmed; the snort of the hippopotamus rose from amid +the reedy tangle; the elephant with calm eyes watched the +movements of the strangers. The swamps of the +Bahr-el-Ghazal are a paradise of wild beasts, and Mademoiselle +Tinné saw thousands of them wandering to and fro. +But though game is so abundant, to hunt it is very +difficult. The sportsman cannot penetrate into the midst of +the dry and withered vegetation without a crackling of leaves and +a snapping of stems, which give instant alarm to vigilant and +suspicious ears. No sooner does he set foot in the jungle, +than, as if warned by some secret telegraphic agency, all its +denizens take to flight. But while Mademoiselle +Tinné’s followers were vainly attempting to pursue +the trail of the great pachyderms, a huge elephant, which had +probably entered too far into the river in the keenness of his +thirst, was caught up in the current, and driven against one of +the boats. The opportunity was not neglected; the boatmen +immediately assailed the unfortunate animal, killed it, and cut +it in pieces.</p> +<p>Lake Reg is the highest navigable point of the Ghazal. <a +name="citation249"></a><a href="#footnote249" +class="citation">[249]</a> Our heroine found here a fleet +of five and <a name="page250"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +250</span>twenty craft, some with cargoes of ivory, others with +cargoes of dourra or millet. She was received with +enthusiasm, which specially manifested itself in the discharge of +three volleys of musketry—a compliment to which Alexina +Tinné replied by hoisting the Dutch flag.</p> +<p>As soon as her little flotilla was safely moored among the +trading craft, the enterprising lady prepared to undertake a +journey into the interior. But as it was found impossible +to collect a sufficient number of porters to carry the baggage, +she arranged that Doctors Heughlin and Steudner should start in +search of suitable winter-quarters. The two travellers set +out, but the malarious climate broke down their health, and both +were seized with a dangerous marsh fever. They suffered +greatly; but, sustained by their strong will, they pushed +forward, crossing, on the 2nd of April, the river Djur, and +arriving, the same evening, at the village of Wau. Here +Doctor Steudner rapidly grew worse. Before long he was +unable to walk; he fell into a profound stupor, and passed away, +almost without pain, on the 10th of April. Doctor Heughlin +describes, with much pathos, the feelings of grief and melancholy +which overpowered him when he buried his friend. The body +was wrapped in Abyssinian cloth and covered with leaves; then +interred in a deep trench dug at the foot of a clump of +trees.</p> +<p>On the 17th of April, Doctor Heughlin quitted the lonely +shades of Wau, and, having lured a large number of porters, +returned to Lake Reg. Then, to complete the necessary +arrangements for the projected expedition to the country of the +Nyam-nyam, <a name="page251"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +251</span>Baron d’Ablaing went on a trip to Khartûm, +whence he brought back an abundant supply of provisions. +During his absence, Alexina Tinné was visited by Mrs. +Petherick, the wife of the English consul—a woman not less +courageous than herself, who had accompanied her husband in most +of his explorations. She claims the honour of having added +numerous places to the map of Africa, and of having been the +first European lady who had penetrated into those remote +regions.</p> +<p>While Alexina Tinné represents Holland, and Mrs. +Petherick England, Germany is represented by the wife of Sir +Samuel Baker, to whom allusion has already been made. A +woman of delicate and even feeble appearance, with a countenance +of remarkable amiability of expression; she possesses, as Queen +Elizabeth said of herself, “the heart of a man,” and +of a brave and chivalrous man. Deeds worthy of the most +famous knights have been accomplished by this lady, who, it might +have been thought, would have sunk before the first breath of the +Simoom. One may here be recorded. While out hunting, +Sir Samuel Baker was attacked by a buffalo, which had sprung upon +him unperceived through the high thick grasses, and was on the +point of impaling him on its horns, when Lady Baker, with cool +and steady aim, raised her rifle, and lodging a bullet between +the animal’s eyes, stretched it dead on the ground. A +moment’s hesitation, the slightest wavering or nervousness, +and Sir Samuel would have been lost.</p> +<p>Alexina Tinné, with Mr. and Mrs. Petherick, made +numerous excursions in the neighbourhood of Lake Reg, in one of +which they were surprised by a <a name="page252"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 252</span>terrible storm. In the memory +of living man no such hurricane had been known; and it seemed to +spend its worst fury upon the traveller’s caravan, which it +threatened every moment to sweep from the earth. When it +had somewhat subsided, other difficulties arose. The +soldiers who formed the escort were not only inveterately idle, +but irrepressibly dishonest; while as for the negroes, they were +contumacious, and refused to follow the route indicated by their +employer. A serious disturbance was on the point of +breaking out, when the gale returned with fresh violence, tore +down at least half of the encampment, and almost suffocated +Alexina Tinné amidst the wreckage of her hut. While +it lasted, terror prevented her followers from resorting to acts +of open insubordination; but they regained their audacity as the +tempest passed away, and, declaring that their supply of food was +insufficient, demanded larger rations. A general mutiny +seemed imminent; but the fair leader of the expedition was equal +to the occasion. Though suffering from bodily pain and +weakness, she boldly confronted the insurgents; with flashing +eye, and in a fierce voice, addressed to them a severe reprimand, +and ordered them to lay down their arms. Her intrepid +demeanour awed them into submission, and the encounter ended in +their humbly supplicating her forgiveness.</p> +<p>The crisis over, her overwrought system gave way. So +serious was her illness that at one time recovery seemed +impossible, and the deepest sorrow was manifested by the whole +camp. Quinine, however, which is the sheet-anchor (so to +speak) of African travellers, saved her. A gradual +improvement took <a name="page253"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +253</span>place, and by the 30th of May all danger had +disappeared.</p> +<p>As soon as she was able to move, she gave orders for the +expedition to advance. It travelled by short stages; and +when, towards night, Miss Tinné came upon a village which +promised convenient quarters, she sent for the sheikh, and the +gift of a few beads was sufficient to make him expel from their +huts the native families. Without striking a blow, the +travellers got possession of the place, and in a few hours had +settled themselves comfortably, while taking due care of their +camels and cattle. As for the dispossessed inhabitants, +they were left to find what shelter or accommodation they could, +consoling themselves with the promise of ample compensation on +the morrow.</p> +<p>The African villages are sometimes of considerable size. +They are nearly always surrounded by a belt of cultivated ground, +where dourra, sesamum, and culinary vegetables grow in +profusion. The flocks scattered over the pastures often +include some thousands of sheep, though they are never killed by +the natives for purposes of food. Miss Tinné +purchased several; but as soon as it was known that she +slaughtered them for provision, their owners refused to +sell. The natives apparently make the sheep the object of a +superstitious <i>cultus</i>, as the Lapps do the hare. It +is true, however, that their scruples vanished at the sight of +Alexina Tinné’s trinkets; their religion proved +unable to withstand the temptation of a bright ring or glittering +bracelet. Yet who shall blame them when Christians have +been known to forswear their faith for equally small <a +name="page254"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +254</span>bribes? It is a curious fact that each tribe has +its favourite colour—that while one swears by blue beads, +another has eyes only for green; so that a tribe which will +violate its conscience for a handful of blue beads or yellow, +will preserve it intact if tested by beads of any other +colour. But no bribe is so powerful, will prevail over so +many vows, will appease so many scruples, as a piece of blue or +red cotton. This, however, was reserved as a gratification +for the chiefs alone; and it was a sight to make you laugh or +weep, according as your philosophy is that of Democritus or +Heraclitus, to see them strutting through their villages, proud +as peacocks in their gaudy attire, haughtier than a mayor with +his official chain round his portly chest, happier than a +Frenchman with the ribbon of the Legion of Honour in his +button-hole.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>The countries of Djur and Dör, traversed by our caravan, +offered a succession of the most varied panoramas. For +several days it passed through marshy lowlands, covered with a +coarse hard grass: the herbage was besprinkled with rare flowers, +many of which belonged to species unknown to European +botanists. As they advanced trees became more numerous; +groves developed into woods, and woods expanded into a luxurious +forest, where the eye surveyed with delight a rich network of +climbing plants and wild vines, spreading from tree to tree, +while the dense cloud of verdure was lighted up profusely with +starry blossoms. In this happy land the mosquito was never +found; nor were there any injurious insects, except the termites +or white ants.</p> +<p><a name="page255"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 255</span>The +picture suddenly changed as the travellers penetrated further +into the interior; immense plains stretched away to a remote +horizon, where earth and heaven seemed to mingle. +Occasionally, however, the monotonous level was broken pleasantly +by clumps of graceful trees, forming so many isles of greenery, +in which the calm bland air was perfumed by the sweet odours that +rose, like a breath, from magnificent cactuses, orchids, and +irises. Thousands of birds, surprised among the tall +grasses by the passing caravan, sprang aloft and filled the air +with the whir of winnowing wings.</p> +<p>Enraptured by the beauty of this fortunate and favoured +region, Alexina forgot the sufferings she had endured, and, +giving a free rein to her womanly enthusiasm, +exclaimed—“This is a delightful country, a marvellous +land, which compensates us for all our fatigue; yes, and for all +our outlay!” These last words may be considered as a +striking example of bathos, or “the art of sinking,” +considering the circumstances under which they were pronounced; +but it would appear that the enormous expenses of the expedition +had by this time made a serious inroad even on Miss +Tinné’s large fortune.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>As for some years a marked diminution had taken place in the +number of elephants inhabiting the valley of the White Nile, the +ivory dealers pushed forward into the countries watered by the +Bahr-el-Ghazal and the Djur. There they found themselves in +a virgin region, which hitherto had not been contaminated by the +influences of a corrupt civilization. It was a mine to be +worked with the happiest results, <a name="page256"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 256</span>and accordingly they established a +series of stations, each in charge of a vakil or manager. +In the month of November these were visited in person by the +traders, who loaded their boats with ivory, too frequently adding +to their cargoes of elephants’ tusks the unfortunate +negroes who had served them as guides and hunters. As time +went on, they extended their relations, and gave free course to +their ambition. They armed the tribes one against another, +promoted internecine contests, and in this way consolidated their +cruel and unscrupulous despotism.</p> +<p>Our travellers nearly fell victims to one of these infamous +speculators in the blood of the feeble and defenceless. +Yielding to his repeated pressure, Alexina and her followers +advanced to Bongo, where he exercised authority. They were +received with a splendid welcome. On their arrival volleys +of musketry woke all the surrounding echoes. Biselli (such +was the name of their self-appointed host) met them at the +entrance to the village, and conducted them into a spacious and +convenient habitation, where, with the most courteous attention, +they were served with sherbet, coffee, and other refreshing +drinks. No one was forgotten in his profuse hospitality; +masters and servants were entertained with equal +liberality. The abrek, the delicious beer of the country, +was freely circulated among the people, and generously +distributed to the very porters.</p> +<p>As Biselli was absolute master in the village and its +neighbourhood, and owned almost everything, Alexina Tinné +requested him to sell some corn and oxen. He answered, like +a true gentleman, that for twenty-four hours he was her host; +that he <a name="page257"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +257</span>had abdicated his position as a trader, and had no +thought but her comfort, and to give her an honourable +reception. His profuseness, far from diminishing, largely +increased; and his European guests were almost ashamed to be the +recipients of an hospitality so cordial, so unlimited, and so +unexpected.</p> +<p>But unfortunately a change came over the spirit of the +dream. Next day, clouds gathered on the horizon which had +previously been so fair. The travellers wished to hire a +small zoriba, or plantation, comprising two tents. Biselli +named thirty thalers as the price. No objection was +offered, and Miss Tinné’s people began to store the +baggage, when he suddenly made a demand for two hundred +thalers. This exorbitant sum was promptly and firmly +refused; he then reduced it to forty thalers, which was +paid. Soon afterwards the caravan was in need of dourra, +and there was no help for it but to apply to Biselli. Well +aware of their necessity, the scoundrel charged forty times more +than they would have had to pay at Khartûm, and on every +other article he put in like manner a tax of forty or fifty per +cent. The ex-gentleman had resumed his old character as an +unprincipled speculator.</p> +<p>Our travellers, however, felt that they could no longer endure +his impositions, and abandoning Bongo and Biselli, returned to +Lake Reg. Here Alexina’s mother was seized with an +illness which carried her off in a few days (July 23rd). +Two European servants were also attacked by fever, and succumbed +to its fatal influence. Overwhelmed with grief, Miss +Tinné abandoned her schemes of African exploration, and <a +name="page258"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 258</span>slowly and +with difficulty made her way back to Khartûm, to find that +her aunt, the Baroness van Capellan, had died during her absence +(in May, 1864). As soon as she had recruited her strength, +she removed to Cairo, where she took up her residence, and for +four years made a conspicuous figure in its brilliant European +circle.</p> +<p>The love of new scenes, however, had not been quenched by her +adventures, and in her yacht she made frequent visits to Naples +and Rome, Smyrna and Jaffa, Algiers and Tripoli. While at +the latter port, a caravan arrived from the Sahara, with the +products of the rich lands that lie beyond that famous +desert. The incident suggested to her bold imagination the +idea of an expedition which in romance and interest should +eclipse her previous enterprise, and she traced the plan of a +journey across Tripoli to the capital of Fezzan, thence to Kuka, +and westward, by way of Wadai, Darfur, and Kordofan, to the +Nile. As this route would carry her into the territory of +the brave but treacherous Towaregs, a race to whom plunder and +rapine seem the breath of life, she took care to provide herself +with a sufficient escort, and on the 29th of January, 1869, set +out from Tripoli at the head of a troop of fifty armed men. +At Sokna, in Fezzan, which she reached on the 1st of March, she +engaged the services of a Towareg chief, one Ik-nu-ken; but at +the last moment he failed her, and she accepted as guides two +chiefs of the same tribe, who professed to have been sent by +Ik-nu-ken. These men, in conjunction with her attendant, +Mohammed, a Tunisian, resolved upon murdering her in order to +gain possession of her money and valuables. Soon <a +name="page259"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 259</span>after her +departure from Sokna (it was on the 1st of August) they excited a +quarrel among the camel-drivers, and when Alexina quitted her +tent to ascertain the cause, one of the Towaregs shot her with a +rifle-bullet, mortally wounding her. For four and twenty +hours she lay dying at the door of her tent, no one venturing to +offer assistance or consolation.</p> +<p>Such was the melancholy fate of Alexina Tinné! It +is satisfactory to know that the murderers who, with their +plunder, had escaped into the interior, were eventually captured, +tried, and sentenced to imprisonment for life. <a +name="citation259"></a><a href="#footnote259" +class="citation">[259]</a></p> +<h2><a name="page260"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 260</span>MR. +J. A. MACGAHAN,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND CAMPAIGNING ON THE OXUS.</span></h2> +<h3>I.</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Mr. J. A. Macgahan</span>, as special +correspondent for the <i>New York Herald</i>, a journal well +known by the liberality and boldness of its management, +accompanied the Russian army, under General Kauffmann, in its +campaigns in Central Asia in 1873 and 1874.</p> +<p>Bound for the seat of war, he made his way, in company with +Mr. Eugene Schuyler, the American <i>chargé +d’affaires</i> at St. Petersburg, who desired to see +something of Central Asia, to Kasala, a Russian town on the +Syr-Daria (the ancient <i>Jaxartes</i>), where he arrived in +April, 1873. He describes this town, or fort, as the +entering wedge of the Russians into Central Asia. Its +population, exclusive of Russian soldiers and civilians, consists +of Sarts, or Tadjiks, Bokhariots, Kirghiz, and Kara-Kalpaks; all +being Tartar tribes, in whom an infusion of Aryan blood has more +or less modified the old Mongolian type. As for the town, +it is picturesque enough to a European eye—its low mud +houses, with flat roofs, windowless, and almost doorless; its +bazár, where long-bearded men, in bright-coloured robes, +gravely drink tea among the wares that crowd their little shops; +and <a name="page261"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 261</span>the +strings of laden camels that stalk through its streets, +presenting a novel combination. As soon as he had obtained +all the information he could with respect to the movements of the +Russian force, Mr. MacGahan resolved on making a dash for the +Oxus, hoping to reach that river before General Kauffmann’s +army had crossed it. But when the Russian authorities +learned his design, they at once interfered, declaring that the +journey was dangerous, if not impracticable, and must not be +undertaken without leave from the Governor-General. Mr. +MacGahan then resolved on pushing forward to Fort Perovsky, as if +going only to Tashkent; trusting to find there an officer in +command who would not be troubled by such conscientious scruples +about his personal safety. No objection was made to a +journey to Tashkent; Mr. MacGahan and Mr. Schuyler therefore +hurried their preparations, stowed their baggage in a waggon, and +themselves in a tarantass, and shaking the dust off their feet at +inhospitable and suspicious Kasala, took their course along the +banks of the Syr-Daria.</p> +<p>This, the ancient Jaxartes, is one of the most eccentric of +rivers. It is continually changing its bed, like a restless +traveller; “here to-day, and gone to-morrow,” and +gone a distance of some eight to ten miles. To adapt it to +the purposes of navigation seems almost impossible, or, at all +events, would be unprofitable; and the best use that could be +made of its waters would be to irrigate with them the thirsty +sands of the desert of Kyzil-Kum.</p> +<p>On Mr. MacGahan’s arrival at Fort Perovsky, he proceeded +to engage a guide and horses, having fully resolved to carry out +his bold enterprise. From the <a name="page262"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 262</span>commandant he was fortunate enough +to obtain a passport, and on the 30th of April he bade farewell +to Mr. Schuyler, and set out. His <i>cortége</i> +consisted of Ak-Mamatoff, his Tartar servant, Mushuf, the guide, +and a young Kirghiz attendant, all mounted, with ten horses to +carry the baggage and forage. As a man of peace, he says, +he went but lightly armed. Yet a heavy double-barrelled +hunting rifle, a double-barrelled shot gun (both being +breech-loaders), an eighteen-shooter Winchester rifle, three +heavy revolvers, and one ordinary muzzle-loading shot gun +throwing slugs, together with a few knives and sabres, would seem +to make up a tolerable arsenal! Mr. MacGahan, however, +assures us that he did not contemplate fighting, and that he +encumbered himself with these “lethal weapons” only +that he might be able to discuss with becoming dignity questions +concerning the rights of way and of property, on which his +opinions might differ from those of the nomads of the desert, who +hold to Rob Roy’s good old rule, that</p> +<blockquote><p>“They should take who have the power,<br /> +And they should keep who can.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>That night our traveller accepted the hospitality of a +Kirghiz. Next morning he and his men were in the saddle by +sunrise, riding merrily away to the south-west, across a country +innocent of road or path. Sometimes their course lay +through tangled brushwood, sometimes through tall reeds which +completely concealed each rider from his companions, sometimes +over low sandy dunes, and sometimes across a bare and most +desolate plain. Occasionally they heard the loud sharp cry +of the golden pheasant of Turkistan; <a name="page263"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 263</span>then they would pass large flocks +and herds of sheep, cattle, and horses, quietly grazing; and +again they would meet and salute a Kirghiz shepherd on +horseback. To eyes that have been trained to <i>see</i> no +desert can be utterly barren of interest; the vigilant observer +will discover, in the most sterile waste, something of fresh and +novel character, something suggestive of thick-coming +fancies. For example, Mr. MacGahan noted the remarkable +difference between the wide stretches of the sandy plain and the +occasional streaks of ground that had been under recent +cultivation; and he perceived that the desert had the +advantage. Parched and sun-scorched, and without a trace of +vegetation, was the land that had been irrigated only the year +before; while the desert assumed a delicate tint of green, with +its budding brushwood and thin grass, which always springs into +life as soon as the snow melts, to flourish until stricken sore +by the heats of summer.</p> +<p>At nightfall the travellers, weary with eleven hours’ +ride, drew up at a Kara-Kalpak aul, or encampment, consisting of +a dozen kibitkas, pitched near a little pond in the centre of a +delightful oasis. The owner of one of the kibitkas proved +to be the guide’s brother, and gave the party a cordial +welcome. The Kara-Kalpaks are nomads like the Kirghiz, but +though they live side by side with them, and frequently +intermarry, they seem to belong to a different race of men. +They are taller than the Kirghiz, and well-made; their skin is +almost as white as that of a European; and instead of the small +eyes, high cheek-bones, flat noses, thick lips, and round +beardless faces of the Kirghiz, they have long faces, high noses, +large open eyes, and are bearded “like the pard.”</p> +<p><a name="page264"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +264</span>“After supper,” says Mr. MacGahan, “I +stepped outside the tent to take a look on the surrounding scene, +and enjoy the cool air of the evening. The new moon was +just setting; lights were gleaming in every direction over the +plain, showing that ours was not the only aul in the +vicinity. The bleating of sheep and the lowing of cattle +could be heard, mingled with the playful bark of dogs and the +laughing voices of children, which came to us on the still +evening air like music. In places the weeds and grass of +last year had been fired to clear the ground for the new growth, +and broad sheets of fire crawled slowly forward over the plain, +while huge volumes of dense smoke, that caught the light of the +flames below, rolled along the sky in grotesque fantastic shapes +like clouds of fire.”</p> +<p>The kibitka, according to our traveller, is made up of +numerous thin strips of wood, six feet long, which are fastened +loosely together like a vine trellis, and can be opened out or +folded up compactly, as necessity requires. As the strips +are slightly curved in the middle, the framework, when expanded, +naturally takes the form of a segment of a circle. Four of +these frames constitute the skeleton sides of the tent; and on +their tops are placed some twenty or thirty rafters, properly +curved, with their upper ends inserted in the hoop, three or four +feet in diameter, that serves as a roof-tree. The method of +pitching a kibitka may be thus described:—As soon as the +camel with the felt and framework reaches the chosen site, he is +made to kneel down, and a couple of women seize the framework, +which they straightway set up on end, and extend in the form of a +circle. <a name="page265"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +265</span>Next the doorposts are planted, and the whole bound +firmly together with a camel’s-hair rope. Then one of +the women takes the afore-mentioned wooden hoop, and raising it +above her head on a pole, the other proceeds to insert in their +proper holes the twenty or thirty rafters, fastening their basis +to the lower framework by means of hoops. When a thick fold +of felt has been let down over the framework, the kibitka, which +measures about fifteen feet in diameter, and eight feet in +length, is complete. In appearance it is not unlike a +magnified beehive of the old pattern.</p> +<p>The Kirghiz nomads are fierce, crafty, often cruel, but they +hold the life of a guest sacred. For his property, however, +they have no such high consideration, and they are not above the +temptation of plundering him of any article that attracts their +fancy. Their chief amusements are horse exercises and +falconry. They love the chase with a true sportsman’s +passion; loving it for itself, rather than for the game it +procures, as they can conceive of nothing daintier than a dish of +mutton—a dish which they prepare with touching +simplicity. For, a sheep having been skinned, they cut it +into quarters, which they plunge into a large caldron of water, +and boil for a couple of hours. Generally, on a principle +of severe economy, they cook the intestines with the meat, not +taking the trouble even to separate them. The guests +arrange themselves in a circle on carpets of felt; the men, as +recognized lords of the creation, occupying the foremost places, +the women and children sitting in the rear. The smoking +quarters of mutton are removed from the pot; each man draws his +knife, slashes off a cantle, eats until satisfied, and <a +name="page266"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 266</span>passes what +is left to his wife and children, who speedily effect a +clearance. The dogs come in for the bones. +Afterwards, bowls of the liquor in which the meat has been boiled +are handed round, and not a Kirghiz but swallows the greasy +potion with as much zest as an epicure takes his glass of dry +champagne. This broth, koumis (fermented mare’s +milk), and tea, are his customary liquors; but the tea, instead +of being prepared in the European fashion, is made into a kind of +soup with milk, flour, butter, and salt. In every +respectable Kirghiz kibitka the women keep constantly upon the +fire a vessel of this beverage, which they offer to visitors, +just as a Turk serves up coffee, and a Spaniard chocolate.</p> +<p>In their mode of life the Kirghiz display a certain +originality. They spend the three winter months in mud huts +on the bank of a river or a small stream, and resume their annual +migrations as soon as the snow begins to melt. During these +migrations they live in tents, and never halt in one spot for +longer than three days. Their march is often continued +until they have travelled three or four hundred miles; then they +turn round, and retrace the same route, so as to reach their +place of hibernation before the snow falls. In their +selection of quarters they seem guided by some traditions handed +down in the different auls; and not unfrequently a body of +Kirghiz will pass over much excellent grazing ground, and travel +many a league to inferior pasturage. The hardships they +undergo are so many, their pleasures so few and mean, their +objects so commonplace, that one is tempted to wonder what kind +of answer an intelligent Kirghiz would return to the question not +<a name="page267"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 267</span>long ago +put with some emphasis before the reading public, “Is life +worth living?” Those higher motives, those purer +aspirations which the cultivated European mind delights to +recognize, are unknown to the wild nomad, and he spends day after +day, and month after month, in what would seem to be a drearily +monotonous struggle for existence, under conditions which might +be supposed to render existence an intolerable burden. But +then he can love and suffer as we know civilized men and women +love and suffer; and love and suffering will invest the harshest, +coarsest life with a certain grace and consecration.</p> +<p>There was once a young Kirghiz, named Polat, who was affianced +to Muna Aim, the comeliest maiden in the aul, or community, of +Tugluk. Her father, Ish Djan, had received the customary +kalym, or wedding present, and the marriage day had been +appointed. But before it arrived, “the blind fury +with the abhorred shears” had “slit” +Polat’s “thin-spun life;” and Muna Aim was set +free from her promise. Suluk, Polat’s brother, came +forward, however, and, in his anxiety to recover his +brother’s property, which she had received as her dower, +claimed her as his wife. The claim was supported by her +father; but Muna Aim, who had sufficient means to live on, +considered herself a widow, and refused to marry. She was +driven from her father’s kibitka; and taking her camel, +with her sheep and goats, her clothes and carpets, she bought a +little kibitka for herself, and lived alone, but not +unhappy. For her heart was really with Azim, a young +Kirghiz belonging to another aul, and she had consented to marry +Polat only in obedience to her father. A second <a +name="page268"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 268</span>sacrifice +she was determined not to make. But the old women grew very +angry with Muna Aim, as she continued to enjoy her +independence. “What is the matter with her?” +they cried. “She will not go to her husband, but +lives alone like an outlaw.” She was an innovator, +boldly breaking through a traditional custom, and they resolved +to “reason” with her. Their arguments were +those which the strong too often employ against the feeble; they +hurled at her bad names, and they scratched her face and pulled +her hair. Still she would not yield; and in contentment she +milked her sheep and goats, drove them to the pasture, and drew +water for them from the well, waiting for some happy turn of +fortune which might unite her with her Azim.</p> +<p>At last Suluk also resolved to try the effect of +“reason.” With three or four friends he +repaired one night to her kibitka, and broke it open, resolved to +carry her off to his tent, and compel her to be his wife. +Love and despair, however, lent her so wonderful an energy, that +she resisted all their efforts. They dragged her to the +door; but she clutched at the door-posts with her hands, and held +so firmly, that to make her let go they were forced to draw their +knives and slash her fingers. When they succeeded in +hauling her into the open air, her clothes were torn from her +body, and she was covered with blood from head to foot. She +continued her brave struggle; and Suluk, leaping on his horse and +catching her by her beautiful long hair, dragged her at his +horse’s heels, until it came out by the roots, and he was +compelled to leave her on the ground, naked, bleeding, half +dead.</p> +<p>Information of this outrage, however, reached the <a +name="page269"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +269</span>Yarim-Padshah (or “half emperor”), as the +tribes of Central Asia call the redoubtable General Kauffmann; +and he despatched a party of Cossacks to seize its author. +Suluk was speedily captured, and sent, a prisoner, to Siberia; +while the faithful and courageous Muna Aim recovered her health +and her braids of long dark hair, and in the winter met the lover +for whom she had endured so much, and was happily married.</p> +<p>Thus the reader will perceive that romance flourishes even in +the wildernesses of the Kyzil-Kum; and that a Kirghiz woman can +be elevated by a true love like an English maiden.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Continuing his ride after the Russians, Mr. MacGahan, when +near Irkibai, came upon the ruins of an ancient city. It +had once been about three miles in circumference, walled, and on +three sides surrounded by a wide and deep canal, on the fourth by +the Yani-Daria. The wall had been strengthened by +watch-towers, and on the summit of a hill in the centre stood two +towers thirty to forty feet in height. The whole was built +of sun-dried brick, and was fast crumbling into shapeless +mounds. At Irkibai Mr. MacGahan met with every courtesy +from the commandant, but nothing was known of the whereabouts of +General Kauffmann. There were but two courses before the +traveller—to return, or go forward. Mr. MacGahan was +not the man to retrace his steps until his work was done, if it +were possible to do it; and he resolved on continuing his +progress to the Oxus. On the 7th of May he rode +forward. At first he followed the regular caravan route, +which, as <a name="page270"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +270</span>many traces showed, had also been that of the Russian +division, under the Grand-Duke Nicholas. It crosses the +thirsty desert—twenty leagues without a well. Fair +enough is it to the eye, with its rolling lines of verdant hills; +but the hills are only sand, and the verdure consists of a coarse +soft weed that, when it flowers, exhales a most offensive +odour. Beneath the broad leaves lurk scorpions and +tarantulas, great lizards, beetles, and serpents. The +traveller, if he lose his way in this deadly waste of delusion, +may wander to and fro for days, until he and his horse sink +exhausted, to perish of thirst, with no other covering for their +bones than the rank and noxious herbage.</p> +<p>Across the gleaming burning sands, while the sun smote them +pitilessly with his burning arrows, rode our brave traveller and +his companions. Their lips cracked with thirst, and their +eyes smarted with the noontide glare, and their weary horses +stumbled in the loose shifting soil; but rest they durst not +until they reached the well of Kyzil-Kak. How glad they +were to throw themselves down beside it, while some kindly +Kirghiz, who had already refreshed their camels and horses, drew +for them the welcome water! MacGahan made a short halt +here, feeding his horses, and sharing with his attendants a light +meal of biscuits and fresh milk, supplied by the Kirghiz, and +then—the saddle again! Meeting with a caravan, he +learned from its Bashi, or leader, that the Russian army was at +Tamdy—that is, instead of being, as he had hoped, within a +day’s march, it must be upwards of two hundred miles +distant; and as it was just on the point of starting for <a +name="page271"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +271</span>Aristan-Bel-Kudluk, which was still further south, it +was impossible to say when he might overtake it. His +disappointment was great; but his cry was still +“Onwards!” By nine o’clock next morning +the indefatigable traveller reached the foot of the grey, bare, +treeless heights of the Bukan-Tau. Though but a thousand +feet in elevation, they presented, with their glancing peaks, +their conical summits, their deep valleys, and awful precipices, +all the characteristics of an Alpine range of mountains. +Resting there for some hours, he took up, on the morrow, a line +of march around their northern slope, and gradually descended +into the plain. From some Kirghiz he ascertained that the +Grand-Duke Nicholas had joined General Kauffmann two days before, +and that the united Russian army had then marched for +Karak-Aty. The problem of overtaking it seemed more +incapable than ever of a satisfactory solution. But, on +studying his map, he found that from the point which he had +reached it was no further to Karak-Aty than to Tamdy, and he +instantly resolved to follow up a caravan route to the south, +which promised to lead to the former.</p> +<p>At noon he rode into the little valley of Yuz-Kudak, or the +“Hundred Wells.” It was completely bare of +vegetation, except a little thin grass, but was brightened by a +small, narrow runlet, which led, in less than a quarter of a +mile, to the water. There, along the valley, bubbled about +twenty-five or thirty wells or springs; in some the water +trickling over the surface, in others standing at a depth of from +five to ten feet. Thence, to the next well, was a distance +of twenty-five miles. The country was sandy, but <a +name="page272"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 272</span>high and +broken up, with a low range of mountains on the left, extending +north-east and south-west. Next day Mr. MacGahan fell in +with a Kirghiz aul, where he was hospitably entertained by a +chief named Bii Tabuk. From him he learned that Kauffmann +had left Karak-Aty and arrived at Khala-Ata, one hundred miles +further to the south, and that the shortest way to Khala-Ata lay +right across the desert in the direction of the Oxus, a little +west of south. As there was no road, nor even a sheep path, +Mr. MacGahan sought for a guide, and eventually engaged a young +Kirghiz at the exorbitant fee of twenty-five roubles. Then, +having enjoyed a couple of days’ rest, he started before +sunrise on that interminable hunt after General Kauffmann, which +seemed to promise as romantic a legend as the voyage of Jason in +search of the Golden Fleece, or Sir Galahad’s famous quest +of the Sangreal.</p> +<p>He had not ridden far, when, as the issue of a little intrigue +between his Tartar, his old guide, Mushuf, and his new guide, the +last named suddenly refused to proceed unless, in addition to the +twenty-five roubles, he received a horse or the money to buy +one. With prompt decision MacGahan dismissed the guide, and +when Ak-Mamatoff showed a disposition to be recalcitrant, +threatened him with his revolver. This display of firmness +and courage immediately produced a satisfactory effect. +Ak-Mamatoff humbled himself, and to prove the sincerity of his +penitence, rode to a neighbouring aul, and procured another and +more trustworthy guide. Afterwards they all breakfasted, +and once more rode across the sandy wastes in the direction of +Khala-Ata. Sand, sand, sand, <a name="page273"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 273</span>everywhere sand. The horses +struggled with difficulty through the huge drifts, and on the +second night one of them gave up, and had to be left +behind. Sand, sand, sand, everywhere sand; by day as by +night, and all so lonely and silent! For fifteen days +MacGahan had bravely plodded through the dreary, inhospitable +desert—when and how would his journey end? Still he +persevered: stumbling through the low coarse brushwood, sliding +down into deep sandy hollows; again, clambering painfully up +steep ascents, where the horses panted and laboured, and strove +with the heavy inexorable sand; over the hard-bound earth, where +their hoof’s rang as on a stone pavement; late in the +night, he was glad to fling himself on the sand to snatch a brief +repose.</p> +<p>“We have scarcely shut our eyes,” says this +intrepid, indefatigable traveller, “when we are called by +the guide to renew the march. It is still night, but the +desert is visible, dim and ghostly under the cold pale light of +the rising moon. Vegetation has entirely disappeared; there +is scarcely a twig even of the hardy saxaul. Side by side +with us move our own shadows, projected long and black over the +moonlit sand, like fearful spectres pursuing us to our doom.</p> +<p>“Thin streaks of light begin to shoot up the eastern +sky. The moon grows pale, the shadows fade out, and at last +the sun, red and angry, rises above the horizon. After the +sharp cold of the night its rays strike us agreeably, suffusing a +pleasant sensation of warmth over our benumbed limbs. Then +it grows uncomfortably warm, then hot, and soon we <a +name="page274"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 274</span>are again +suffering the pangs of heat and thirst; our eyes are again +blinded by the fiery glare, and our lungs scorched by the +stifling noonday atmosphere.”</p> +<p>Throughout that day the ride was continued, and even far into +the night. Early next morning the traveller reached the +summit of the mountain range behind which lies Khala-Ata. +With feelings of eager expectancy and hope, he spurred forward +his horse, and with his field-glass looked down upon the bleak +bare plain which stretched far away in the direction of Bokhara; +there, at the distance of eight miles, he saw a dome-like mound, +encircled by small tents, which shone in the morning sunlight, +and at various points were grouped masses of soldiers in white +uniform, and the sheen of steel. At last, then, he had +overtaken Kauffmann!</p> +<p>Though weary and spent, and covered with the dust of the +desert, it was with a cheerful heart that, at about six +o’clock on the morning of the 16th of May, he rode into the +camp and fortress of Khala-Ata, after a ride of five hundred +miles and a chase of seventeen days. All the more bitter +was his disappointment when, on asking the young officer on duty +to direct him to the quarters of General Kauffmann, he was +informed that the general had left Khala-Ata, five days before, +and by that time must certainly have reached the Amu-Darya. +The chase, then, had been fruitless; the rider, daring and +indefatigable as he had showed himself, had missed his +mark. The commandant at Khala-Ata proved to be a Colonel +Weimam, who received the special correspondent with marked +discourtesy, <a name="page275"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +275</span>and refused to allow him to continue his search for +General Kauffmann, unless he first obtained that general’s +permission. The sole concession he would make was, that he +would send on Mr. MacGahan’s letters of introduction, and +then, if the Russian commander-in-chief expressed a wish to see +him, he would be at liberty to go. This arrangement, +however, would evidently involve a delay of ten or twelve +days. In the mean time the army would cross the Oxus, would +capture Khiva, and the special correspondent’s +“occupation” would be “gone.” +Anxiously did Mr. MacGahan meditate on the course it would be +best for him to adopt. To break through the Russian lines +and effect his escape seemed impracticable. In all +probability, the swift-footed and ferocious Turcoman cavalry were +hanging in General Kauffmann’s rear; and how, without an +escort, was he to make his way through their ranks? Yet the +more he reflected, the more he became convinced that this was his +only chance of reaching the Russian army in time to witness the +capture of Khiva. The difficulties in the way, apart from +the danger, were enormous. His horses were exhausted; he +had neither provisions nor forage, nor any means of procuring +them; and he might reckon on Colonel Weimam’s despatching a +squadron of Cossacks to pursue and arrest him. +Ascertaining, however, that the colonel was about to move forward +with a couple of companies of infantry, one hundred Cossacks, and +two field-pieces, he resolved on the bold plan of quitting the +camp with the cavalry, trusting to the darkness to escape +detection, and afterwards making a wide circuit to pass the +detachment. Several days passed by in wretched <a +name="page276"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +276</span>inaction. The heat was oppressive; clouds of dust +filled the atmosphere, and almost choked the unfortunate victims +exposed to its irritating influence; provisions were painfully +scarce, and Colonel Weimam absolutely refused to sell or give a +grain of barley to the traveller’s starving horses. +At last, about one a.m. on the 14th of May, the Russian +detachment marched out of camp, and struck to the westward, in +the direction of Adam-Kurulgan and the Amu-Daria. Mr. +MacGahan and his men were on the alert. “I dropped +silently,” he says, “in the rear of the Cossacks, who +led the column, followed by my people, and when we had gained the +summit of the low sand-hill, a mile from the camp, over which the +road led, I as silently dropped out again, turned my +horses’ heads to the west, and plunged into the +darkness.”</p> +<p>Once more he was in the open desert, once more he was free, +and he could not repress a feeling of exultation, though he was +suffering from hunger, his horses were spent with starvation, and +at any moment he might fall into the hands of the murderous +Turcomans. A more daring enterprise, or one conceived in a +more resolute and intrepid spirit, is hardly recorded, I think, +in the annals of adventure. When he supposed himself at a +sufficient distance from the Russian column, he turned sharp +round to the west, and made as straight as he could for the +Amu-Darya, expecting to reach it before Colonel Weimam. But +after a hard day’s ride, he found, as he approached +Adam-Kurulgan, that the Russian soldiers were before him! +There seemed no alternative but to return to Khala-ata or +surrender himself to the obnoxious and despotic Weimam. +Yes; if he could get water for his exhausted beasts he <a +name="page277"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 277</span>might avoid +Adam-Kurulgan altogether, and still pursue his wild ride to the +Oxus! Some Kirghiz guides, on their way to Khala-Ata, +informed him that twenty miles further on was Alty-Kuduk, or the +“Six Wells;” it was not on the road to the Amu, but +some four miles to the north, and Kauffmann had left some troops +there. This news revived his drooping spirits. +“Forward!” he cried, and away through the deep +sand-drifts the little company toiled and struggled. He +lost another of his horses, and the survivors were almost mad +with thirst; but his cry was still “Forward!” +He himself longed for water, with a longing unknown to those who +have not travelled in the arid desert and under the burning sun, +for hours and hours, without moistening the parched lips; but his +only thought was “Forward!” On the following +day the brave man’s persistency was rewarded. He +reached the camp of Alty-Kuduk, met with a most friendly +reception from all its inmates, and obtained meat and drink for +himself and his men, and barley and water for his horses.</p> +<p>A day’s rest, and he was again in the saddle (May +27th). It was soon apparent by the dead camels that lined +the road that he had got into the trail of the Russian army, and +from time to time he could recognize the tracks of cannon. +Then he came upon the bodies of Turcoman horses, which, as he +afterwards learned, had been slain in a skirmish two days +before. Towards sunset the character of the country +changed: the rolling sand dunes disappeared, and the traveller +entered upon a level plain, which sank away into a lower kind of +terrace. The day drew rapidly to a close: lower and lower +down the western sky <a name="page278"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 278</span>sunk the blood-red sun; at last it +dropped below the horizon, and as the sky flashed momently with +broad streaks of red and purple and golden light, the shimmer of +water became visible in the distance. It was the Oxus!</p> +<p>It was long after dark when MacGahan reached the river. +He refreshed his horses with its waters, and then encamped for +the night. At daylight he ascended a hill, and looked out +upon the scene. The broad, calm river, winding north and +south, sparkled before him, like a belt of silver on a golden +mantle. But where was the Russian army? Where was +General Kauffmann?</p> +<p>Nowhere could he discover a trace of human habitation, of tent +or kibitka. Nowhere could he see a single picket, not even +a solitary Cossack.</p> +<p>Again was MacGahan disappointed. I have read of an old +superstition which represents a cup of gold as the prize of the +fortunate mortal who shall find the exact spot where a rainbow +touches the earth. And I have read that men, believing it, +have pursued the radiant iris with eager footsteps, only to find +her eluding them when most they think themselves sure of grasping +her. So was it with our special correspondent. He had +hoped to overtake the Russians at Myn-Bulak, but they had +vanished; at Khala-Ata, but he was too late; and again on the +Oxus, but they had disappeared. He was almost tempted to +look upon himself as the victim of a portentous delusion. +Would there really be a Kauffmann? Was the expedition to +Khiva other than a myth?</p> +<p>The tracks of cannon and the ashes of extinct campfires +reassured him on these points; and, <a name="page279"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 279</span>rallying his energies, he set out +once more on his strange quest, following the course of the +Oxus. That day he rode five and forty miles. At night +he encamped, but as Khivans might be prowling in the vicinity, he +resolved to keep watch. For hours he paced up and down in +the darkness, a darkness that would have been death stillness but +for the murmur of the flowing river; and at length he caught a +flash of light. To him, like the light which Columbus saw +on the eve of the discovery of the New World, it portended the +end of his adventure; for it proceeded, as he knew, from either a +Khivan or a Russian bivouac. In the morning he started +early, and had ridden but a short distance, when loud upon his +ears broke the rolling thunder of artillery! Then he knew +that the army was close at hand, and engaged in desperate combat +with its Khivan enemies.</p> +<p>A few miles more, and Mr. MacGahan reached a sand-hill which +afforded him an extensive view of the valley of the river. +The opposite bank was crowded with horsemen, who were galloping +to and fro, while a couple of cannon placed in front of a small +pit were busily discharging missiles. On his own side the +Russians were posted in loose order, and looking quietly on; +their artillery replying to the Khivan fire with whizzing +shells. “It was a curious scene,” says our +traveller; “and I suppose the old Oxus, since the time it +first broke from the ice-bound springs of Pamir, had never heard +such music as this. Five times before had the Russians +attempted to reach this very spot, and five times had they +failed. Five times had they been driven back, beaten, and +demoralized, either by the difficulties of the way, the <a +name="page280"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 280</span>inclemency +of the season, or the treachery of the Khivans. The one +detachment which had succeeded in capturing Khiva had afterwards +been slaughtered to the last man; and now the Russians stood at +last, this bright morning, on the banks of that historic river, +with their old enemy once more before them.” The +Khivans soon retired, leaving the opposite bank entirely +free. Mr. MacGahan then started down the river to join the +Russian army, and in a short time found himself in their midst, +overwhelmed with friendly attentions. News of his gallant +ride across the Kyzil-Kum had preceded him, so that he was +received as a man who had quietly done a truly heroic +thing. His first duty was to pay his respects to the object +of his prolonged quest, General Kauffmann. The general, +wrapped up in a Bokharan khalat or gown, was seated in an open +tent, drinking tea and smoking a cigarette; a man of middle age, +bald, rather short of stature, beardless, but wearing a thick +moustache, prominent nose, blue eyes, and a pleasant kindly +countenance. He shook hands with MacGahan, asked him to sit +down, and remarked, with a smile, that he appeared to be +something of a “molodyeltz” (a brave fellow). +After questioning him respecting his adventures, he briefly told +the story of his campaign up to that time, and gave him full and +free permission to accompany the army the rest of the way to +Khiva. By the Grand-Duke Nicholas Mr. MacGahan was received +with equal courtesy.</p> +<p>The traveller now develops into the special correspondent, and +his record of travel changes into a chronicle of military +events. It would be inconsistent with our purpose to follow +minutely his narrative of <a name="page281"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 281</span>the Khivan war; but we shall +endeavour to select such passages as throw some light on the +nature of the country and the character of its inhabitants.</p> +<h3>II.</h3> +<p>The Khivans, according to Mr. MacGahan, are generally +medium-sized, lean, muscular fellows, with long black beards, and +no very agreeable physiognomy. They dress in a white cotton +shirt, and loose trousers of the same material, over which is +worn a khalat, or long tunic, cut straight, and reaching to the +heels. The Khivan khalat, with its narrow stripes of dirty +brown and yellow, differs very much indeed from the beautiful and +brilliant khalat of the Bokhariots. Most of the Khivans go +barefoot, and they cover their head with a tall, heavy, black +sheepskin cap, which is heavier, uglier, and more inconvenient +than even the bearskin of our household troops. In the +neighbourhood of Khiva they chiefly cultivate the soil, and their +prowess as horticulturists deserves to be renowned. For +miles around their capital the country blooms with well-kept +gardens, where fruit trees of all kinds flourish, and little +fields of waving corn. The houses and farmyards are +enclosed by stout walls, from fifteen to twenty feet high, +solidly buttressed, and flanked by corner towers. The +entrance is through an arched and covered gateway, closing with a +massive timber gate. The farmhouse, a rectangular building, +from twenty-five to seventy-five yards square, is built of dried +mud, worked into large blocks like granite, and measuring three +or four feet <a name="page282"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +282</span>square and as many thick. There is always a +little pond of clear water close at hand, and this is shaded by +three or four large elms, while the enclosures are planted with +elms and poplars.</p> +<p>Khiva surrendered to the Russians on the 9th. Mr. +MacGahan entered it in company with the victorious troops, but +confesses to experiencing a feeling of disappointment. The +grand or magnificent he had not expected; but his dreams of this +Oriental city, secluded far away in the heart of the desert, had +pictured it as impressive and picturesque, and they proved +entirely false. Through narrow, dirty, and crooked streets, +he advanced to the citadel. Entering by a heavy arched +brick gateway, he came in sight of a great porcelain tower, +shining brilliantly with green, and brown, and blue, and +purple. This tower, about one hundred and twenty-five feet +high, measured about thirty feet in diameter at the base, and +tapered gradually towards the top, where its diameter was about +fifteen feet. It was covered all over with burnt tiles, +arranged in a variety of broad stripes and figures, as well as +with numerous verses of the Koran. With the Khan’s +palace, it forms one side of a great square, enclosed by the +walls of the citadel; the opposite side being occupied by a new +médressé, and the other two sides by sheds and +private houses.</p> +<p>In the palace nothing is worthy of notice except the +Khan’s audience chamber, or great hall of state. Of +this you can form a good idea if you will tax your imagination to +conceive a kind of porch, opening on an inner court, measuring +about thirty feet high, twenty feet wide, and ten feet deep, and +flanked on either side by towers ornamented with blue and green +<a name="page283"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +283</span>tiles. The floor was raised six feet, and the +roof supported by two curved, slender wooden pillars. The +other rooms were mostly dark and ill ventilated. At the +back of the hall of state was the Khan’s treasury, a low +vaulted chamber, the walls and ceilings of which were covered +with frescoes of vines and flowers, executed on the most +fantastic principles of colouring. The gold, silver, and +precious stones had been removed, but not so the weapons, of +which there was a most various assortment: swords, guns, daggers, +pistols, revolvers, of almost every shape and description. +Two or three sabres were of English manufacture. There were +also many of the beautiful broad, slightly curved blades of +Khorassan, inlaid with gold; slender Persian scimitars, their +scabbards blazing with turquoises and emeralds; and short, thick, +curved poniards and knives from Afghanistan, all richly +enamelled, and their sheaths set in precious stones. In the +hurry of the Khan’s departure, beautiful carpets had also +been left behind, silk coverlets, cushions, pillows, khalats, and +rich and rare Kashmir shawls.</p> +<p>In another apartment were found about three hundred volumes of +books, some old telescopes, bows and arrows, and several fine +suits of armour, which doubtlessly belonged to the era of the +Crusades, when the chivalry of Europe encountered the Saracens on +the plains of Syria and Palestine.</p> +<p>In the course of his wanderings Mr. MacGahan lighted upon the +Khan’s harem, where his favourite Sultana and some other +women still remained. As he was an American—or, +rather, because they supposed him to be an Englishman—the +ladies gave him a <a name="page284"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +284</span>cordial reception, and entertained him to tea. +They were eight in number: three were old and exceedingly ugly; +three middle-aged or young, and moderately good looking; one was +decidedly pretty; and the other whom Mr. MacGahan speaks of as +the Sultana, was specially distinguished by her superior +intelligence, her exquisite grace of movement, and her air of +distinction. She wore a short jacket of green silk, +embroidered with gold thread; a long chemise of red silk, +fastened on the throat with an emerald, slightly open at the +bosom, and reaching below the knees; wide trousers, fastened at +the ankles; and embroidered boots. She had no turban, and +her hair was curled around her well-shaped head in thick and +glossy braids. Curious earrings, composed of many little +pendants of pearls and turquoises, glanced from her ears, and +round her wrists gleamed bracelets of solid silver, traced with +gold.</p> +<p>The chamber in which these ladies sat was ten feet wide, +twenty long, and twelve high. Parts of the ceiling were +embellished with coloured designs, rude in conception and +execution. Against one side of the room were placed elegant +shelves, supporting a choice assortment of the finest Chinese +porcelain. The floor was strewn with carpets, cushions, +coverlets, shawls, robes, and khalats, all in admired disorder, +together with household utensils, arms, an English +double-barrelled hunting rifle, empty cartridges, percussion +caps, and—strange contrast!—two or three +guitars. It was evident that preparations for flight had +been begun, and the principal valuables already removed.</p> +<p>The Khan soon found that nothing was to be gained by flight, +and as the Russians were disposed <a name="page285"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 285</span>to treat him leniently, he decided +on returning to Khiva, and surrendering to the great +Yarim-Padshah, the victorious Kauffmann. Mr. MacGahan, who +was present at the interview, describes the Asiatic potentate, +Muhamed Rahim Bogadur Khan, as at that time a man of about thirty +years of age, with a not unpleasing expression of countenance; +large fine eyes, slightly oblique, aquiline nose, heavy sensual +mouth, and thin black beard and moustache. He was about six +feet three inches high, with broad shoulders and a robust +figure. “Humbly he sat before Kauffmann, scarcely +daring to look him in the face. Finding himself at the feet +of the Governor of Turkistan, his feelings must not have been of +the most reassuring nature. The two men formed a curious +contrast; Kauffmann was not more than half as large as the Khan, +and a smile, in which there was apparent a great deal of +satisfaction, played on his features, as he beheld Russia’s +historic enemy at his feet. I thought there never was a +more striking example of the superiority of mind over brute +force, of modern over ancient modes of warfare, than was +presented in the two men. In the days of chivalry, this +Khan, with his giant form and stalwart arms, might have been +almost a demi-god; he could have put to flight a regiment +single-handed, he would probably have been a very Cœur de +Lion; and now the meanest soldier in Kauffmann’s army was +more than a match for him.”</p> +<p>The capital of this Asiatic potentate is, as I have hinted, +deficient in remarkable characteristics. With three or four +exceptions, the buildings are all of clay, and present a +miserable appearance. There <a name="page286"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 286</span>are two walls—an outer and an +inner; the interior enclosing the citadel, which measures a mile +in length by a quarter of a mile in breadth, and in its turn +encloses the Khan’s palace and the great porcelain +tower. The outer wall is on an average twenty-five feet +high, and it is strengthened by a broad ditch or moat. +There are seven gates. The area between the walls is at one +point converted into a kind of cemetery; at another it is planted +out in gardens, which are shaded by elms and fruit trees, and +watered by little canals. Of the houses it is to be said +that the interior is far more comfortable than the wretched +exterior would lead the traveller to anticipate. Most of +them are constructed on the same plan. You pass from the +street into a large open court, all around which are arranged the +different apartments, each opening into the court, and seldom +having any direct communication with each other. Facing the +north stands a high porch, with its roof some seven or eight feet +above the surrounding walls; this serves to catch the wind, and +bring it down into the court below on the principle of a +wind-sail aboard ship. The free circulation of air thus +maintained is, undoubtedly, very pleasant in the summer heat, but +in a Khivan winter it must have its disadvantages.</p> +<p>With twenty-two médressés, or monasteries, and +seventeen mosques, is Khiva endowed. Of the latter, the +most beautiful and the most highly esteemed is the mosque +Palvan-Ata, which raises its tall dome to a height of sixty feet, +shining with tiles of glaring green. The interior of the +dome is very striking: it is covered, like the exterior, with +tiles, but these <a name="page287"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +287</span>are adorned with a beautiful blue tracery, interwoven +with verses from the Koran. In a niche in the wall, +protected by a copper lattice-work, are the tombs of the Khans; +and Palvan, the patron-saint of the Khivans, is also buried +there.</p> +<p>From the mosques we pass to the bazár, which is simply +a street covered in, like the arcades so popular in some English +towns. The roof consists of beams laid from wall to wall +across the narrow thoroughfare, supporting planks laid close +together, and covered with earth. On entering, you are +greeted by a pleasant compound scent of spices, by all kinds of +agreeable odours, and by the confused sounds of men and +animals. As soon as your eyes grow accustomed to the shade, +they rest with delight on the rich ripe fruit spread everywhere +around you in tempting masses. Khiva would seem to be the +paradise of fruit epicures. There are apricots, and grapes, +and plums, and peaches, and melons of the finest quality and +indescribable lusciousness. But if you want more solid +fare, you can enjoy a pilaoff with hot wheaten cakes, and wash +down the repast with stimulating green tea. After which, +refreshed and thankful, you may sally forth to make your +purchases of boots or tobacco or khalats, cotton stuffs or silk +stuffs, calico from Manchester, muslin from Glasgow, robes from +Bokhara, or Russian sugar. This done, you are at leisure to +survey for a while the motley crowd that surges to and fro. +The Uzbeg, with his high black sheepskin hat and long khalat, +tall, well-formed, swarthy, with straight nose and regular +features; the Kirghiz, in coarse dirty-brown khalat, with broad, +flat, stolid countenance; the Bokhariot merchant, <a +name="page288"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 288</span>with turban +of white and robe of many colours; the Persian, with quick, +ferret-like eyes, and nimble, cat-like motions; and the Yomud +Turcoman, with almost black complexion, heavy brows, fierce black +eyes, short upturned nose, and thick lips. These pass +before you like figures in a phantasmagoria.</p> +<p>Weary with the noise and shifting sights, you gladly accept an +invitation to dine with a wealthy Uzbeg, and accompany him to his +residence. The day is very warm; in a cloudless sky reigns +supreme the sun; and you rejoice when you find that your host has +ordered the banquet to be spread in the pleasant garden, amid the +shade of green elms and the sparkle of running waters. Your +first duty is to remove your heavy riding-boots, and put on the +slippers which an attendant hands to you; your second is to make +a Russian cigarette, and drink a glass of nalivka, or Russian +gooseberry wine, as a preparation for the serious work that +awaits you. Then a cloth is spread, and the dinner +served. Fruits, of course—apricots, melons, and the +most delicious white mulberries; next, three or four kinds of +dainty sweetmeats, which seem to consist of the kernels of +different nuts embedded in a kind of many-coloured toffee. +Into a frothy compound, not unlike ice-cream with the ice left +out, you dip your thin wheaten cakes, instead of spoons. +Various kinds of nuts, and another glass of nalivka, precede the +principal dish, which is an appetizing pilaoff, made of large +quantities of rice and succulent pieces of mutton, roasted +together.</p> +<p>The dinner at an end, large pipes are brought in. Each +consists of a gourd, about a foot high, filled <a +name="page289"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 289</span>with water; +on the top, communicating with the water through a tube, rests a +bowl, containing the fire and tobacco. Near the top, on +either side, and just above the water, is a hole; but there is no +stem. The mode of using it is this: you take up the whole +vessel in your hand, and then blow through one of the holes to +expel the smoke. Next, stopping up one hole with your +finger, you put your mouth to the other, and inhale the smoke +into your lungs. You will probably be satisfied with three +or four whiffs on this gigantic scale.</p> +<p>Mr. MacGahan had an opportunity of seeing the interior of an +Uzbeg house, and he thus describes it:—</p> +<p>“There is little attempt at luxury or taste in the house +of even the richest; and in this respect the poorest seems almost +on an equality with the most opulent. A few carpets on the +floor; a few rugs and cushions round the wall, with shelves for +earthenware and China porcelain; three or four heavy, gloomy +books, bound in leather or parchment; and some pots of jam and +preserved fruit, generally make up the contents of the +room. There are usually two or three apartments in the +house different from the others, in having arrangements for +obtaining plenty of light. In these rooms you find the +upper half of one of the walls completely wanting, with the +overhanging branches of an elm projecting through the +opening. The effect is peculiar and striking, as well as +pleasant. From the midst of this room—with mud walls +and uneven floor, with the humblest household utensils, and +perhaps a smoking fire—you get glimpses of the blue sky +through the green <a name="page290"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +290</span>leaves of the elm tree. A slightly projecting +roof protects the room from rain; in cold weather, of course, it +is abandoned. Two or three other rooms are devoted to the +silkworms, the feeding and care of which form the special +occupation of the women. The worms naturally receive a +great deal of attention, for their cocoons pay a great part of +the household expenses.”</p> +<p>But let us suppose that an Uzbeg host closes up the +entertainment he has provided for us with a dance.</p> +<p>The dancers are two young boys—one about eight, the +other about ten years of age—with bare feet, a little +conical skull-cap on their shaven heads, and a long loose khalat +drooping to their ankles. The orchestra is represented by a +ragged-looking musician, who sings a monotonous tune to the +accompaniment of a three-stringed guitar. The boys begin to +dance; at first with slow and leisurely movements, swaying their +bodies gracefully, and clapping their hands over their heads to +keep time to the music. But as this grows livelier, the +boys gradually become more excited; striking their hands wildly, +uttering short occasional shouts, turning somersaults, wrestling +with each other, and rolling upon the ground.</p> +<p>Towards nightfall, torches will be brought on the scene; some +being thrust into the ground, and others fastened to the trunks +and branches of trees. The comelier of the juvenile dancers +now attired himself as a girl, with tinkling bells to his wrists +and feet, and a prettily elaborate cap, also decked with bells, +as well as with silver ornaments, and a long pendent veil +behind. He proceeds to execute a quiet and <a +name="page291"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 291</span>restrained +dance by himself, lasting, perchance, for about a quarter of an +hour; and the other boy coming forward, the two dance together, +and enact a love-scene in a really eloquent pantomime. The +girl pretends to be angered, turns her back, and makes a pretence +of jealousy, while the lover dances lightly around her, and +endeavours to restore her to amiability by caresses and all kinds +of devices. When all his efforts fail, he sulks in his +turn, and shows himself offended. Thereupon the lady begins +to relent, and to practise every conciliatory art. After a +brief affectation of persistent ill humour, the lover yields, and +both accomplish a merry and animated measure with every sign of +happiness.</p> +<p>When the Russians left Khiva in the month of August, Mr. +MacGahan’s mission was ended. He had been present +with them at the fall of Khiva, and in the campaign which they +afterwards undertook—it would seem, with little or no +justification—against the Yomud Turcomans. On the +return march he accompanied the detachment in charge of the sick +and wounded, descending the Oxus to its mouth, and then +proceeding up the Aral Sea to the mouth of the Syr-Daria. +The voyage on the Aral occupied two days and a night. +Having entered the Syr-Daria, thirty-six hours’ sailing +brought the flotilla to Kasala—the point from which, as we +have seen, Mr. MacGahan had started, some months before, on his +daring ride through the desert. After a sojourn of three +days, he started in a tarantass for Orenburg.</p> +<p>It will be owned, I think, that Mr. MacGahan’s +enterprise was boldly conceived and boldly executed; that he +displayed, not only a firm and manly courage, <a +name="page292"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 292</span>but a +persistent resolution which may almost be called heroic. He +showed himself possessed, however, of even higher qualities; of a +keen insight into character, a quick faculty of observation, and +a humane and generous spirit.</p> +<h2><a name="page293"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +293</span>COLONEL EGERTON WARBURTON,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND EXPLORATION IN WEST +AUSTRALIA.</span></h2> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> north-west of the +“island-continent” of Australia seems to have been +discovered almost simultaneously by the Dutch and Spaniards about +1606. Twenty years later, its west coast was sighted; and +in 1622 the long line of shore to the south-west. Tasmania, +or, as it was first called, Van Diemen’s Land, was visited +by the Dutch navigator Tasman in 1642. Half a century +passed, and Swan River was discovered by Vlaming. The real +work of exploration did not begin, however, until 1770, when +Captain Cook patiently surveyed the east coast, to which he gave +the name of New South Wales. In 1798, in a small boat about +eight feet long, Mr. Bass, a surgeon in the navy, discovered the +strait that separates Tasmania from Australia, and now +perpetuates his memory. He and Lieutenant Flinders +afterwards circumnavigated Tasmania; and Flinders, in 1802 and +1803, closely examined the south coast, substituting, as a +general designation of this “fifth quarter of the +world,” Australia for the old boastful Dutch name of New +Holland. <a name="page294"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +294</span>He also explored the great basin of Port Philip, and +discovered the noble inlets of St. Vincent and Spencer +Gulfs. In 1788 the British Government selected Botany Bay, +on the east coast, as a place of transportation for criminals; +and from this inauspicious beginning sprang the great system of +colonization, which, developed by large and continual emigration +from the mother country, has covered Australia with flourishing +States. Tasmania became a separate colony in 1825; West +Australia, originally called Swan River, in 1829; South Australia +in 1834; Victoria in 1851; Queensland in 1859. Meanwhile, +the exploration of the interior was undertaken by a succession of +bold and adventurous spirits, starting at first from New South +Wales. The barrier of the Blue Mountains was broken +through, and rivers Macquarie, Darling, and Lachlan were in time +discovered. In 1823 Mr. Oxley surveyed the Moreton Bay +district, now Queensland, and traced the course of the +Brisbane. In 1830 Captain Sturt explored the Murray, the +principal Australian river, to its confluence with Lake +Victoria. In 1840 Mr. Eyre, starting from Adelaide, +succeeded, after enduring severe privations, in making his way +overland to King George’s Sound. In the following +year he plunged into the interior, which he believed to be +occupied by a great central sea; he found only the swamp and +saline bays of Lake Torrens. Captain Sturt, in 1845, +penetrated almost to the southern tropic in longitude 130° +E., traversing a barren region as waterless and as inhospitable +as the Sahara. About the same time Dr. Ludwig Leichhardt, +with some companions, successfully passed from Moreton Bay to <a +name="page295"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 295</span>Port +Errington; but, in 1848, attempting to cross from east to west, +from New South Wales to the Swan River, he and his party +perished, either from want of provisions or in a skirmish with +the natives. In the same year Mr. Kennedy, who had +undertaken to survey the north-east extremity of Australia, was +murdered by the natives. Thus Australian exploration has +had its martyrs, like African. In 1860 Mr. M’Douall +Stuart crossed the continent from ocean to ocean, or, more +strictly speaking, from South Australia to a point in lat. +18° 40′ S., about two hundred and fifty miles from the +coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria. The hostility of the +natives prevented him from actually reaching the coast. In +August, 1860, a similar expedition was projected by some +gentlemen belonging to the colony of Victoria; and, under the +command of Robert O’Hara Burke, it started from Melbourne +for Cooper’s Creek, whence it was to proceed to the +northern coast. Some of the members, namely, Burke, Mr. +Wills, the scientific assistant, and King and Gray, two +subordinates, succeeded in reaching the Gulf of Carpentaria; but +on their return route they suffered from want of provisions, and +all perished except King. In 1862 Mr. M’Douall Stuart +renewed his bold project of crossing the continent, and starting +from Adelaide, arrived in Van Diemen’s Bay, on the shore of +the Indian Ocean, July 25th. Numerous other names might be +added to this list; but we shall here concern ourselves only with +that of Colonel Egerton Warburton, as one of the most eminent and +successful of Australian explorers.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Peter Egerton Warburton was born in August, 1813. <a +name="page296"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 296</span>After +passing through the usual examination in the East India +Company’s college at Addiscombe, he entered the Bombay army +in 1834, and served in India until 1853, passing the greater part +of the time in the Adjutant-General’s Department, and +rising through each grade until he attained his majority, and was +appointed Deputy Adjutant-General at head-quarters. But, +attracted by the prospects opened up to colonists in New Zealand, +he resigned the service, intending to proceed thither with his +wife and family. Eventually, circumstances led to his +preferring South Australia as a field for his energies; and soon +after his arrival at Adelaide he was selected to command the +police force of the whole colony—an onerous post, which he +held with distinction for thirteen years. He was afterwards +made commandant of the volunteer forces of the colony of South +Australia. In August, 1872, the South Australian Government +resolved on despatching an expedition to explore the interior +between Central Mount Stuart and the town of Perth, in West +Australia, and chose Colonel Warburton as its leader. +Afterwards, the Government drew back, and the cost of the +expedition was eventually undertaken by two leading colonists, +Messrs. Elder and Hughes, who authorized Colonel Warburton to +organize such a party and prepare such an outfit as he considered +necessary, and provided him with camels and horses. It was +arranged that the party should muster at Beltana Station, the +head-quarters of the camels; thence proceed to the Peake, lat. +28° S., one of the head-quarters of the inland telegraph; +and, after a détour westward, make for Central Mount +Stuart, where they would receive a reinforcement of camels, and, +<a name="page297"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 297</span>thus +strengthened, would be able to cross the country unknown to +Perth, the capital of Western Australia.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>With his son Richard as second in command, Colonel Warburton +left Adelaide on the 21st of September, 1872; reached Beltana +Station on the 26th; and on the 21st of December arrived at Alice +Springs (1120 miles from Adelaide), the starting-point of his +journey westward. The party consisted of himself, his son, +T. W. Lewis, two Afghan camel-drivers, Sahleh and Halleem, Denis +White (cook and assistant camel-man), and Charley, a native +lad. There were four riding and twelve baggage camels, +besides one spare camel; the horses being left at Alice +Springs. All needful preparations having been completed, +the explorers quitted the station on the 15th of April, 1873, and +turned their faces westward.</p> +<p>For the first five days not a drop of water was seen, and on +the fifth, of the supply carried with them only one quart was +left, which it was necessary to reserve for emergencies. +When they encamped for the night, no fire was lighted, as without +water they could not cook. Next day, the 20th, Lewis and +the two Afghans were sent, with four camels, to refill the casks +and water-bags at Hamilton Springs, about twenty-five miles +distant. Meanwhile, a shower of rain descended; all the +tarpaulins were quickly spread, and two or three buckets of water +collected. What a change! All was now activity, +cheerfulness, heartfelt thanksgiving. A cake and a pot of +tea were soon in everybody’s hands, and in due time Lewis +returned with a full supply of water, to increase and partake in +the general satisfaction.</p> +<p><a name="page298"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +298</span>Keeping still in a general westerly direction, they +crossed extensive grassy plains, relieved occasionally by +“scrub” or bushes, and coming here and there upon a +spring or well. “The country to-day,” writes +Warburton, on one occasion, “has been beautiful, with +parklike scenery and splendid grass.” In the +“creeks,” as the water-courses are termed in +Australia, they sometimes found a little water; more often, they +were quite dry. “This is certainly,” he writes, +“a beautiful creek to look at. It must at times carry +down an immense body of water, but there is none now on its +surface, nor did its bed show spots favourable for retaining +pools when the floods subsided.” On the 9th of +January they struck some glens of a picturesque character. +At the entrance of the first a huge column of basalt had been +hurled from a height of three hundred feet, and having fixed +itself perpendicularly in the ground, stood like a sentry, +keeping guard over a fair bright pool, which occupied the whole +width of the glen’s mouth—a pool about fifteen feet +wide, fifty feet long, and enclosed by lofty and precipitous +basaltic cliffs. At the entrance, the view does not extend +beyond thirty yards; but, on accomplishing that distance, you +find that the glen strikes off at a right angle, and embosoms +another pool of deep clear water, circular in shape, and so +roofed over by a single huge slab of basalt that the sun’s +rays can never reach it. There is a second glen, less +grand, less rugged than the former, but more picturesque. +At the head of it bubble and sparkle many springs and much +running water.</p> +<p>The surrounding country was clothed with porcupine-grass +(spinifex)—a sharp thorny kind of <a +name="page299"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 299</span>herbage, +growing in tussocks of from eighteen inches to five feet in +diameter. When quite young, its shoots are green; but as +they mature they assume a yellow colour, and instead of +brightening, deepen the desolate aspect of the wilderness. +“It is quite uneatable even for camels, who are compelled +to thread their way painfully through its mazes, never planting a +foot on the stools, if they can possibly avoid it. To +horses on more than one occasion it has proved most destructive, +piercing and cutting their legs, which in a very short time +become fly-blown, when the animals have either to be destroyed or +abandoned. The spiny shoots are of all heights, from the +little spike that wounds the fetlock to the longer blade that +penetrates the hock. It is one of the most cheerless +objects that an explorer can meet, and it is perhaps unnecessary +to say that the country it loves to dwell in is utterly useless +for pastoral purposes.”</p> +<p>Coming to a range of granite, steep, bare, and smooth, Colonel +Warburton clambered up its face on hands and knees, to find there +a fine hole or basin in the rock, perfectly round and nearly full +of water. This hole was, of course, the work of nature, +and, strange to say, was on the point of a smooth projecting part +of the rock, where it would have seemed impossible that any water +could lodge. How it was wrought in such a place one cannot +imagine, but the position was so prominent as to be visible from +the plain at a considerable distance.</p> +<p>Another day the travellers fell in with a bees’ +hive;—unfortunately, it was empty. The Australian bee +is stingless, and very little larger than our common house-fly, +but its honey is remarkably sweet. The <a +name="page300"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 300</span>nest, or +“sugar-bag,” as the bushmen call it, is generally +made in a hollow tree. They also saw some specimens of the +crested dove—one of the loveliest of the Australian +pigeons. In truth, it is hardly surpassed anywhere in +chasteness of colouring and elegance of form, while its graceful +crest greatly enhances the charm of its appearance. It +frequently assembles in very large flocks, which, on visiting the +lagoons or river banks for water, during the dry seasons, +generally congregate on a single tree or even branch, perching +side by side, and afterwards descending in a body to drink; so +closely are they massed together while thus engaged, that dozens +may be killed by a single discharge of a gun. Their flight +is singularly swift; with a few quick flaps of the wings they +gain the necessary impetus, and then sail forward without any +apparent exertion.</p> +<p>The diamond-sparrow, or spotted pardalote, was also +seen. This bird inhabits the whole of the southern parts of +the Australian continent, from the western to the eastern border, +and is very common in Tasmania. It is nearly always engaged +in searching for insects among the foliage both of the tallest +trees and the lowest shrubs, in the garden and orchard as in the +open forest; and it displays in all its movements a remarkable +activity, clinging about in every variety of position, both above +and beneath the leaves, with equal facility. Its mode of +nest-building differs from that of every other member of the +genus to which it belongs. It first excavates, in some +neighbouring bank, a hole just large enough to admit of the +passage of its body, in a nearly horizontal direction, to the +depth of two or three feet; at the end of this <a +name="page301"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 301</span>burrow or +gallery, it forms a chamber; and in this chamber it deposits its +nest, which is beautifully woven of strips of the inner bark of +the Eucalypti, and lined with finer strips of the same or similar +materials. In shape it is spherical, about four inches in +diameter, with a lateral hole for an entrance. To prevent +the ingress of rain the chamber is raised somewhat higher than +the mouth of the hole. Mr. Gould, the Australian +naturalist, speaks of these nests as very difficult to detect; +they can be found, he says, only by watching for the ingress or +egress of the parent birds, as the entrance is generally +concealed by herbage or the overhanging roots of a tree. +Why so neat a structure as the diamond-sparrow’s nest +should be constructed at the end of a gallery or tunnel, into +which no light can possibly enter, is beyond comprehension; it is +one of those wonderful results of instinct so often brought +before us in the economy of the animal kingdom, without our being +able to explain them. The diamond-sparrow rears two broods, +of four or five each, in the course of the year. Its song +or call is a rather harsh, piping note of two syllables, +frequently repeated.</p> +<p>The great difficulty which besets the Australian explorer is +the want of water. He travels day after day across open +grassy plains, relieved by few variations of surface, except the +sand ridges, to meet with neither spring nor watercourse. +Sometimes he comes upon the native wells, but these, very +frequently, are dry or almost dry; he digs well after well +himself, but no water rises. Colonel Warburton’s +party suffered severely from this deficiency. They met with +much trouble, moreover, through the straying of their <a +name="page302"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +302</span>camels. Thus, one evening, “Charley,” +who acted as camel-herd, reported that they had run away +southward. He traced their tracks for several miles, and +observed that one camel had broken its hobbles. <a +name="citation302"></a><a href="#footnote302" +class="citation">[302]</a> Halleem, the Afghan +camel-driver, then mounted the Colonel’s riding camel, +“Hosee,” and started in search of them at five +o’clock on a Sunday evening. He was to push on for +five or six miles, then camp for the night, and at dawn follow up +the tracks vigorously, so as to overtake the truants, and return +by mid-day.</p> +<p>Monday came, but Halleem and the camels came not with +it. Sahleh, who had been exploring in the vicinity of the +camp with a gun, returned in the evening with the startling +information that he had seen Hosee’s <i>return</i> track, +coming near the camp, and then striking off in a north-easterly +direction. Colonel Warburton now also learned for the first +time that Halleem was occasionally subject to fits, and that +while they lasted he knew not what he was doing or where he was +going. It was evident that such a man ought not to have +been trusted alone, and it became a question whether Halleem had +lost his camel or his wits; the latter seemed more probable, as +Hosee, if he had come near the other camels, would certainly have +joined them.</p> +<p>Next day, Monday, July 22nd, the Colonel +writes:—“I sent my son and Charley with a +week’s provisions on our back tracks, to try for Halleem +first; but, in the event of not finding his <i>foot</i> tracks, +to continue on, and endeavour to recover the camels. Lewis +also <a name="page303"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +303</span>went in the other direction, to run up Hosee’s +tracks; so that I hoped that by one or other of these means I +should learn what had become of Halleem. Unfortunately, +Lewis, supposing he had only a few hours’ work, took +neither food nor water. Now, 6 p.m., it is beginning to +rain, and Lewis has not returned. I know he will stick to +the tracks as long as he can, but I wish he were back; if Halleem +be demented, he may urge the camel on sixty or seventy miles +without stopping, and thus get a start in his mad career that +will make it impossible for Lewis to help him.</p> +<p>“23rd. It has rained lightly all night. +Lewis is still absent; I am greatly grieved at his having nothing +to eat.</p> +<p>“1 p.m. Lewis returned; he had camped with +Richard, and so was all right.</p> +<p>“It appears from his report that Sahleh, whilst out +‘birding,’ must have stumbled upon a mare’s +nest, for Lewis soon abandoned the track he started on, and +turned after Richard to find Halleem’s first camp. +They did not find this, but they fell on his tracks of next day, +steadily following the runaway camels; it is clear, therefore, +that Sahleh has done his countryman some injustice, and caused +much unnecessary alarm. . . . Richard returned, having seen +Halleem, and promised to take out provisions to meet him on his +return.</p> +<p>“26th. Sahleh shot an emu (<i>Dromaius Novoe +Hollandicæ</i>), a welcome addition to our larder. +Every scrap of this bird was eaten up, except the feathers. +The liver is a great delicacy, and the flesh by no means +unpalatable.</p> +<p>“27th and 28th. Sent provisions to Ethel Creek for +Halleem.</p> +<p><a name="page304"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +304</span>“29th. The camel-hunters returned in the +evening, but without the camels. This is a double loss; the +camels are gone, and so is our time; our means of locomotion are +much reduced, whilst the necessity of getting on is greatly +increased. Halleem has, however, done all he could do; he +followed the camels nearly one hundred miles, but as they +travelled night and day, whilst he could only track them by day, +he never could have overtaken them. No doubt these animals +will go back to Beltana, where alarm will be created as soon as +they are recognized as belonging to our party.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Such is the Colonel’s simple, unaffected account of what +was really an annoying and perplexing incident.</p> +<p>At this date (July 29th) the explorers had accomplished +seventeen hundred miles. The country continued to present +the same general features—plains yellow with +porcupine-grass, alternating with low hills of sand; but as they +advanced, the sand-hills became more numerous, and among them lay +numerous half-dry salt lagoons of a particularly cheerless +aspect. Dense spinifex—high, steep sand-ridges, with +timber in the flats, and nothing for the camels to eat but low +scrubby bushes;—that horses should cross such a region is +obviously impossible. The want of water again became +urgent. From the burnt ground clouds of dust and sand were +thrown up by the wind, almost choking the travellers, and +intensifying their thirst. They were temporarily relieved +by coming upon a native well. But the country still wore +the same cheerless aspect of inhospitality; the desolate arid +plain extended in every region—a desert of sand, <a +name="page305"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 305</span>which +wearied the travellers by its monotony. Even when they +arrived at the so-called basaltic hills, there was no water, no +sign of green and pleasant vegetation. It was quite an +excitement when, for the first time, they descried some +flock-pigeons. The birds were very wild, and they could +kill only three or four, but they were excellent eating, and made +quite a dainty dish. Soon after this cheerful episode, +Lewis, who had been sent on a short excursion south in quest of +water, returned with intelligence of an Eden oasis which he had +discovered in the wilderness. A beautiful clump of large +gum trees flourished at the bottom of a small creek, which was +hemmed in by a high sand-hill, and afterwards broke through a +rocky ridge sprinkled with fine, clear, deep water-holes, one +hundred feet in circumference. The rich green foliage of +the gum trees contrasted vividly with the red sand-hills on +either side, and the bare rocky barrier in front. To this +delightful spot of greenery, bustard, bronze-wing pigeons, owls, +and other birds resorted.</p> +<p>Colonel Warburton, however, was averse to retrace his steps, +even to enjoy a halt in such an “earthly paradise;” +and, pushing forward, was rewarded for his persistency by +discovering a fine large lake of fresh water, haunted by ducks, +flock-pigeons, and parrots. He halted on its borders for a +couple of days.</p> +<p>Of the bronze-wing pigeon, to which allusion has just been +made, it may be affirmed that it prevails in every part of +Australia. In some individuals the forehead is brown, in +others buff white; the crown of the head and occiput, dark brown, +shading into plum colour; sides of the neck, grey; upper surface +of <a name="page306"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 306</span>the +body, brown, each feather edged with tawny brown; wings, brown, +with an oblong spot of lustrous bronze on the coverts; the tail +feathers, deep grey, with a black band near the tip, except the +two central, which are brown; under surface of the wing, +ferruginous; breast, deep wine-colour, passing into grey on the +under parts; bill, blackish grey; legs and feet, carmine +red. It is a plump, heavy bird, and, when in good +condition, weighs nearly a pound. Its favourite haunts are +the dry hot plains, among the bushes or +“scrub.” Its speed is very surprising; in an +incredibly short time it traverses a great expanse of +country. Before sunrise it may be seen in full flight +across the plain, directing its course towards the creeks, where +it quenches its thirst. The traveller who knows its habits +can, by observing it, determine, even in the most arid places, +whether water is near at hand; if he descry it wending its way +from all quarters towards a given point, he may rest assured that +there he will obtain the welcome draught he seeks. Mr. +Gould says that it feeds entirely upon the ground, where it finds +the varieties of leguminous seeds that constitute its food. +It breeds during August and the four following months, that is, +in the Australian spring and summer, and often rears two or more +broods. Its nest is a frail structure of small twigs, +rather hollow in form; and is generally placed on the horizontal +branch of an apple or gum tree, near the ground. On one +occasion, Mr. Gould, during a long drought, was encamped at the +northern extremity of the Brezi range, where he had daily +opportunities of observing the arrival of the bronze-wing to +drink. The only water <a name="page307"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 307</span>for miles around lay in the vicinity +of his tent, though that was merely the scanty supply left in a +few small rocky basins by the rains of many months before. +Hence, he enjoyed an excellent opportunity for observing not only +the bronze-wing, but all the other birds of the +neighbourhood. Few, if any, of the true insectivorous or +fissirostral birds came to the water-holes; but, on the other +hand, the species that live upon grain and seeds, particularly +the parrots and honey-eaters (<i>Trichoglossi</i> and +<i>Meliphagi</i>), rushed down incessantly to the margins of the +pools, heedless of the naturalist’s presence, their sense +of peril vanquished temporarily by their sense of thirst. +The bronze-wing, however, seldom appeared during the heat of the +day; it was at sunset that, with the swiftness of an arrow, it +rushed towards the watering-place. It did not descend at +once, says Mr. Gould, to the brink of the pool, but dashed down +upon the ground at about ten yards’ distance, remained +quiet for a while until satisfied of its safety, and then +leisurely walked to the water. After deep and frequent +draughts, it retired, winging its way towards its secluded +nest.</p> +<p>Just before reaching the lake, the Colonel’s party made +a capture, a young native woman; and they detained her in order +that she might guide them to the native wells. On the 1st +of September, however, she effected her escape by gnawing through +a thick hair-rope, with which she had been fastened to a +tree.</p> +<p>Spinifex and sand resumed their predominance as the travellers +left the lake behind them. The heat was very great, and +crossing the hot sand and the steep hills was trying work. +On the 12th, they <a name="page308"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +308</span>rejoiced in the discovery of some excellent +wells. Then again came spinifex and sand-hills. These +troublesome ridges varied considerably in height and in distance +from one another; but their elevation seldom exceeded eighty +feet, and the space between them was not often more than three +hundred yards. They lay parallel to one another, running +from east to west; so that while going either eastward or +westward the travellers could keep in the intervening hollows, +and travel with comparative facility, but when compelled to cross +them at a great angle, the feet of the camels ploughed deep in +the sand, and the strain upon the poor animals was +terrible. Yet the Australian waste is, after all, less +wearisome than the sandy deserts of Nubia or the great Sahara; it +is sadly deficient in water, but the sand-hills disguise their +inhospitality with many varieties of shrubs and flowers, as well +as with acacias and gum trees. The shrubs are not edible, +and the trees are of no value as timber, but they serve to hide +the nakedness of the land.</p> +<p>A grave danger beset them on the 15th. Their master bull +(or male) camel had eaten poison, and fell ill; he was of immense +value to the travellers, not only on account of his great +strength, but because without his help it would be almost +impossible to keep the young bulls in order, and they might elope +with all the ewe (or female) camels. They administered to +him a bottle of mustard in a quart of water—the only +available medicine—but without any beneficial effect. +In every herd of camels, it is necessary to explain, is found a +master bull, who, by his strength, preserves order among his +young brethren. These <a name="page309"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 309</span>gay cavaliers are always desirous of +a harem to themselves; and, if allowed an opportunity, would cut +off three or four cows from the herd, and at full speed drive +them for hundreds of miles. They are quiet only while under +subjection to the master bull, and become intractable if, through +illness or accident, his supremacy should be relaxed. +Colonel Warburton was surprised at the marvellous instinct of the +young bulls in his little camel harem; they knew that their +master was ailing almost before the camel-men did, and at once +showed signs of insubordination, so that it was necessary to +watch them by night and to knee-halter them.</p> +<p>The old camel did not improve, and on the 16th the Colonel was +compelled to abandon him. Three misfortunes followed: on +the 17th two riding camels were taken ill, having been struck in +the loins by the night wind; and on the 18th the same fate befell +Richard Warburton’s riding camel. Thus, in three days +the travellers lost four camels. They endeavoured to make +some profit out of the misadventure by “curing” a +quantity of camel-meat. The inner portions of the animal +were first eaten—not the liver and other dainty parts only, +but the whole; every single scrap was carefully consumed, not a +shred was wasted. Then, head, feet, hide, tail, all went +into the boiling pot. Even the very bones were stewed down, +for soup first, and afterwards for the sake of the marrow they +contained. The flesh was cut into thin flat strips, and +hung upon the bushes for three days to be dried by the sun. +The tough thick hide was cut up and parboiled, the coarse hair +scraped off with a knife, and the leathery substance replaced in +the pot and <a name="page310"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +310</span>stewed until, both as to flavour and savour, it bore a +disagreeable resemblance to the inside of a carpenter’s +glue-pot. As may be supposed, such a dish as this was not +so nutritious as the roast beef (or mutton) of Old England; but +it stifled for a while the cry of an empty stomach. The +attack next fell upon the head, which was speedily reduced to a +polished skull. As for the foot, like cow-heel or +sheep’s trotters, it was looked upon as a delicacy, and its +preparation was a marvel of culinary skill. First, a good +fire was lighted, and allowed to burn down to bright red embers, +while the foot, severed at the hock, was scraped and singed as +thoroughly as time permitted. The foot was thrust into the +glowing coals, burnt for some considerable time, removed, placed +on its side on the ground, and deprived of its tough horny +sole. After this elaborate series of operations, the reader +will doubtless suppose that the delicacy is fit for the +table. Not a bit of it! It must be placed in a bucket +of water, and kept steadily boiling for six and thirty hours; +then, and then only, may it be served up. On the whole, we +should not consider it a dish for a hungry man.</p> +<p>The 21st of September was the anniversary of their departure +from Adelaide. Two of the party went out on camels to +search for water, and two, in a different direction, on +foot. As they had only two riding camels left, and these in +a weak condition, they threw away their tents, and most of their +private property, retaining only their guns and ammunition, and +clothing enough for decency. Happily, one of the +reconnoitring parties found a well, to which the travellers at +once proceeded, and watered the thirsty, weary camels.</p> +<p><a name="page311"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 311</span>After +a three days’ halt they resumed their advance, but moved +very slowly. They were sick and feeble, and the country was +difficult to traverse. Another camel had to be abandoned; +so that out of seventeen animals, only eight remained. A +plague of insects was added to their troubles. Not only did +clouds of common flies buzz and worry around them, and legions of +ants assail them, but the Australian bee, or honey-fly, tormented +them by its pertinacious adhesion to their persons—an +unwelcome adhesion, as it is famed for its intolerable +smell. To get water they were again compelled to wander +from the direct route, and at one time they descended as far +south as lat. 20° 2′. Hence they began to suffer +from want of provisions, and a grim alternative faced them: if +they pressed forward, they ran the chance of losing their camels +and dying of thirst; if they halted, they could hope only to +prolong their lives on sun-dried camel flesh.</p> +<p>On the 3rd of October their condition was critical. The +improvident Afghans, having consumed all their flour and meat, +had to be supplied from the scanty rations of the white men, and +Colonel Warburton resolved that if water were but once more +found, so that he might not be compelled to retrace his steps, he +would at all risks push forward to the river Oakover. +Another riding camel broke down, and was killed for meat. A +well was discovered, but the supply of water was so small that +only one bucketful could be obtained in three hours, and on the +second day it ran dry. On the 8th, having slightly +recruited their animals, the undaunted travellers again moved +forward; but one of the camels was still so feeble that <a +name="page312"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 312</span>Colonel +Warburton and his son took it in turns to walk. The Colonel +had the first stage, and, owing to stoppages from loads slipping +off at the sand-hills, he soon struck ahead of the camels. +Suddenly, hearing a noise behind him, he turned;—nine armed +blacks were rushing full upon him! He halted to confront +them, and they too stopped, at fifteen yards apart; two of them, +in bravado, poised their spears, but, on his advancing pistol in +hand, immediately lowered them, and a parley followed, in which, +however, as neither understood the other’s language, there +was very little edification.</p> +<p>The blacks were all chattering round him, when he heard a +shot, as he supposed, on his “right front.” In +reality it was fired from quite an opposite direction; but he was +unwilling to answer the signal, because he did not wish to lose +one of the three charges of his pistol. Moreover, the +natives might have supposed that the single discharge had +exhausted his resources, and have made an attack upon him. +He accompanied them to their camp, and got a little water. +The women and children would not approach him, but, thanks to his +grey beard, the men similarly equipped welcomed him +readily. There was a general passing of hands over each +other’s beards—a sign of friendship, it is to be +presumed; for, after this little ceremony, the intercourse was +conducted on the most amicable terms. Eventually the +Colonel resumed his walk across the hot glaring sand-hills, until +he thought he had covered the required distance, and that the +camels would soon overtake him; then he stopped, lighted a fire, +smoked a pipe, and would have indulged in a short nap, had the +ants been agreeable. Finding that <a +name="page313"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 313</span>sleep was +impossible, he resolved on returning to the camp of the blacks +for some more water; but, at that moment, his son and Lewis +arrived with Charley, who had followed up his tracks, and he +found that he must retrace his steps, having gone astray. +Exhausted by heat, hunger, and fatigue, he could scarcely stagger +along; but his companions supported his tottering feet, and in +the evening he reached their encampment.</p> +<p>A good supply of water had been discovered, and, +notwithstanding the alarming scarcity of provisions, it was +indispensable that they should halt by it for some days, in order +to give the camels an opportunity of partially recovering their +strength. Without them the explorers could hardly hope to +cross the wide and weary wilderness in which they were +involved. Their rapidly diminishing store of food they +endeavoured to eke out by killing such feathered spoil as came +within their range—Gular parrots, and bronze-wing and +top-knot pigeons—and by a mess of boiled salt-plant +(<i>Salicornia</i>). On the 14th they resumed their weary +march.</p> +<p>An entry or two from Colonel Warburton’s journal will +afford a vivid idea of his distressed condition at this +period:—</p> +<p>“19th. This is Sunday. How unlike one at +home! Half a quart of flour and water at four a.m.; a hard, +sinewy bit of raw, that is, sun-dried, but uncooked, camel-meat +for dinner at two p.m.; supper uncertain, perhaps some roasted +acacia seeds: this is our bill of fare. These seeds are not +bad, but very small and very hard; they are on bushes, not trees, +and the natives use them roasted and pounded.</p> +<p><a name="page314"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +314</span>“20th. Got a pigeon; and some flour and +water for breakfast. We can only allow ourselves a spoonful +of flour each at a time, and it won’t last many days even +at this rate.</p> +<p>“Killed a large camel for food at sunset. We would +rather have killed a worse one, but this bull had, in the early +part of our journey, got a very bad back, and was unable to work +for a long time. . . .</p> +<p>“21st. Cutting up and jerking camel-meat. +The inside has given us a good supper and breakfast. This +is a much better beast than the old, worn-out cow we killed +before, and we have utilized every scrap, having had a sharp +lesson as to the value of anything we can masticate. . . .</p> +<p>“25th. All the camel-meat has been successfully +jerked, and we have lived since the 20th on bone-broth and +gristle. The birds were getting shy, so when we killed the +camel we gave them a rest; to-day we go at them again. I +hope the water-searchers will return this evening; our prospects +are not very bright under any circumstances, but if we get water +anywhere between south and west we shall have a prospect of +overcoming the difficulties and dangers that threaten us. . . +.</p> +<p>“29th. A short rain squall passed over us last +evening; it has cooled the ground a little. Economy is, of +course, the order of the day in provisions. My son and I +have managed to hoard up about one pound of flour and a pinch of +tea; all our sugar is gone. Now and then we afford +ourselves a couple of spoonfuls of flour, made into paste. +When we indulge in tea the leaves are boiled twice over. I +eat my sun-dried camel-meat uncooked, as far as I can bite it; +what I <a name="page315"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +315</span>cannot bite goes into the quart pot, and is boiled down +to a sort of poor-house broth. When we get a bird we dare +not clean it, lest we should lose anything.</p> +<p>“More disasters this morning. One of our largest +camels very ill; the only thing we could do for it was to pound +four boxes of Holloway’s pills, and drench the animal. . . +. One of the Afghans apparently wrong in his head. . . +. In the evening the camel was still very sick.”</p> +<p>The animal, however, was better on the following day, and the +expedition again toiled onward across the sands. Very +troublesome were the ants, which seemed to have undertaken a +deliberate campaign against the much-suffering travellers. +They were small black ants, and in such numbers that a stamp of +the foot on the ground started them in thousands. When the +wearied men flung themselves down in the shade of a bush to +obtain the solace of half an hour’s sleep, these pestilent +persecutors attacked them, making their way through their scanty +clothing, and dealing sharp painful nips with their strong +mandibles.</p> +<p>On the evening of the 1st of November, they began their +“rush” or forced march for the Oakover river, and +across the wearisome sand-hills actually accomplished five and +twenty miles. Colonel Warburton then felt unable to +continue the journey, thirst, famine, and fatigue having reduced +him to a skeleton, while such was his weakness that he could +scarcely rise from the ground, or when up, stagger half a dozen +steps forward. “Charley” had been absent all +day, and when he did not return at sunset, much <a +name="page316"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 316</span>alarm was +felt about him. The Colonel knew not what to do. +Delay meant ruin to them all, considering their want of food and +water; yet to leave the camp without the Colonel seemed inhuman, +as it was dooming him to certain death. Until nine +o’clock in the evening they waited. Then a start was +made, but before they had gone eight miles, the poor lad joined +them. Notwithstanding the fatigue of the previous +night’s travelling, the lad had actually walked about +twenty miles; he had fallen in with a large party of natives, and +accompanied them to their water. “It may, I think, be +admitted,” says Colonel Warburton, “that the hand of +Providence was distinctly visible in this +instance.”—Is it not in <i>every</i> +instance?—“I had deferred starting until nine p.m., +to give the absent boy the chance of regaining the camp. It +turned out afterwards that if we had expedited our departure by +ten minutes, or postponed it for the same length of time, Charley +would have crossed us; and had this happened, there is little +doubt that not only myself, but probably other members of the +expedition, would have perished from thirst. The route +pursued by us was at right angles with the course pursued by the +boy, and the chances of our stumbling up against each other in +the dark were infinitesimally small. Providence mercifully +ordered it otherwise, and our departure was so timed that, after +travelling from two to two hours and a half, when all hope of the +recovery of the wanderer was almost abandoned, I was gladdened by +the ‘cooee’ of the brave lad, whose keen ears had +caught the sound of the bells attached to the camels’ +necks. To the energy and courage of this untutored native +may, under the guidance of the Almighty, <a +name="page317"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 317</span>be +attributed the salvation of the party. It was by no +accident that he encountered the friendly well. For +fourteen miles he followed up the tracks of some blacks, though +fatigued by a day of severe work, and, receiving a kindly welcome +from the natives, he had hurried back, unmindful of his own +exhausted condition, to apprise his companions of the important +discovery he had made.”</p> +<p>At the native camp, Colonel Warburton’s party obtained +some kangaroo meat, and a good supply of fresh water. They +rested for twenty-four hours, and the repose and the food +together temporarily reinvigorated them. At this time their +position was lat. 20° 41′, and long. 122° +30′; so that they were only three days’ journey from +the Oakover. Forward they went, the country still +presenting the two main features of sand and spinifex; forward +they went, over the cheerless, monotonous plains, broken by sand +ridges; growing weaker every day, but losing not one jot of hope +or resolution. The annals of travel present few examples of +more heroic tenacity and persistent purpose; few records of +suffering more patiently borne, or of obstacles more steadfastly +overcome. The highest energy, perseverance, and fortitude +were necessary to the leader of an exploring expedition through +so forlorn a wilderness, and these were never wanting on the part +of Colonel Warburton, whose name, amongst the pioneers of +civilization in Australia, must always be held in honour.</p> +<p>On the 11th of November, the seven members of the expedition +were living wholly on sun-dried strips of meat, as devoid of +nutriment as they were of taste; and as these were almost +exhausted, they <a name="page318"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +318</span>had to consider the probability of having to sacrifice +another camel. They had no salt—a terrible +deprivation; no flour, tea, or sugar. Next day, they were +surrounded by sand-hills, and no water was visible +anywhere. It was certain that, unless some providentially +opportune help arrived, they could not live more than twenty-four +hours; for the burning heat and the terrible country could not be +endured without water. Not a snake, kite, or crow could +they discover; one little bird, the size of a sparrow, was all +that their guns could procure. Writing in his journal, the +Colonel calmly says:—“We have tried to do our duty, +and have been disappointed in all our expectations. I have +been in excellent health during the whole journey, and am so +still, being merely worn out from want of food and water. +Let no self-reproaches afflict any one respecting me. I +undertook the journey for the benefit of my family, and was quite +equal to it under all the circumstances that could reasonably be +anticipated, but difficulties and losses have come upon us so +thickly for the last few months that we have not been able to +move; thus our provisions are gone, but this would not have +stopped us could we have found water without such laborious +search. The country is terrible. I do not believe men +ever traversed so vast an extent of continuous desert.”</p> +<p>Early on the 14th Charley sighted in the distance a native +camp, and while the remainder of the party, with the camels, kept +out of sight, he advanced alone towards it. The blacks +received him kindly and gave him water, but when he +“cooed” for the party to come up, they seem to have +thought he had entrapped <a name="page319"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 319</span>them, and instantly speared him in +the back and arm, cut his skull with a tomahawk, and nearly broke +his jaw. After perpetrating this cruelty, they fled +ignominiously. Colonel Warburton took possession of the +fire they had kindled, and rejoiced at obtaining water. +Charley’s wounds were serious, but they were bound up as +carefully as circumstances permitted, and it is satisfactory to +state that he recovered from them. Another camel was +killed, and Charley was nursed upon soup. This supply of +meat enabled the expedition to continue its march towards the +Oakover, which receded apparently as they advanced; and they +toiled onward painfully, with the hot sun and hot wind exhausting +their small resource of energy, the ants tormenting them at +night, the sand and spinifex oppressing them by their +monotony. On the 25th, to save themselves from starvation, +they killed another camel, and all hands were employed in cutting +up and jerking the meat. At last, on the 4th of December, +they camped on a rocky creek, tributary to the Oakover, and were +able to take leave of the dreadful desert which had so long +hemmed them in on every side. Their spirits revived, for +there was no longer a scarcity of water and they hoped that the +river would supply them with the means of subsistence.</p> +<p>But they had soon reason to feel that their difficulties were +not all at an end. It was pleasant to look on the beautiful +trees and profuse vegetation of the creek, but the charms of +nature will not satisfy stomachs that have had no food for two +days. So, on the evening of the 6th, a third camel was +killed. Next day a few small fish were caught; they were +greatly relished, and proved of real benefit. The 8th <a +name="page320"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 320</span>was happily +marked by another banquet of fish; but as they had no net or +fishing apparatus, it was by no means easy work to catch +them. Still, the travellers did not grow stronger; want of +rest and of wholesome food, and the strain of continuous exertion +and anxiety for so long a period, had undermined the whole +system, and they could not rally.</p> +<p>On the 11th they struck the Oakover in lat. 21° 11′ +23″. This must be a noble river, writes the Colonel, +when the floods come down. The bed is wide and gravelly, +fringed with magnificent cajeput or paper-bark trees. How +grateful was its lovely and shady refuge from the hot fierce sun +after the terrible sand-hills among which the travellers had +wandered so long!</p> +<p>On the 13th Lewis and an Afghan driver, on the only two camels +that could travel, were sent forward to search for the station of +Messrs. Harper and Co., and procure some help both in food and +carriage. During his absence the Colonel and his companions +lived, to use an expressive phrase, from hand to mouth. +They could not get the fish to bite; but one day Richard +Warburton shot a teal, and they rescued from the talons of a hawk +a fine black duck, which supplied them with a splendid +dinner. They were compelled, however, to fall back upon +their last camel, though he was so lean and worn-out that he did +not cut up well. On the 23rd they rejoiced in the capture +of a couple of wood-ducks, and they also secured a little +honey—a delightful novelty for persons who for many weeks +had been deprived of the strengthening and useful properties of +sugar. Still, these occasional “tidbits” could +not supply the <a name="page321"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +321</span>want of regular and nutritious food; and all the +travellers could hope for was to stave off actual famine. +Day after day passed by, and Lewis did not return. Colonel +Warburton had calculated that he would be absent about fourteen +days; but the seventeenth came, and yet there was no sign of +Lewis. Writing in his journal, Colonel Warburton, on +December 20th, sums up his position in a few pithy and pregnant +sentences:—“We have abundance of water, a little +tobacco, and a few bits of dried camel. Occasionally an +iguana or a cockatoo enlivens our fare; and, lastly, I hope the +late rain will bring up some thistles or some pig-weed that we +can eat. Our difficulties are, to make our meat last, +though, so far from doing us good, we are all afflicted with +scurvy, diarrhoea, and affection of the kidneys from the use of +it. We cannot catch the fish; we cannot find opossums or +snakes; the birds won’t sit down by us, and we can’t +get up to go to them. We thought we should have no +difficulty in feeding ourselves on the river, but it turns out +that, from one cause or another, we can get very little, and we +are daily dropping down a peg or two lower.” But a +few hours after making this entry, the Colonel’s long +period of suffering and anxiety was at an end. He and his +son were lying down near the little hut of boughs which they had +constructed as a shelter, and listlessly eyeing the boy Charley, +who had climbed a tree to look for honey, when they were startled +by his cry—whether a yell of pain or shout of joy, it was +impossible to determine. But in a moment the cause of his +emotion was satisfactorily explained; out from the thick +brushwood trotted a string of six horses, driven by the gallant +<a name="page322"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 322</span>Mr. +Lewis, accompanied by another white man from a station on the De +Grey river. They brought an ample supply of nutritious +food, and on the following day some additional stores came up on +camels. Mr. Lewis’s apparent delay was soon +explained; the station, which belonged to Messrs. Grant, Harper, +and Anderson, was one hundred and seventy miles distant.</p> +<p>On the 3rd of January Colonel Warburton started down the +river. For the first few days he had to be lifted on his +horse’s back, but with good food and moderate exercise he +regained something of his old strength, and the journey to the +station was accomplished in a week and a day. Ten days were +then given to rest under the hospitable roof of Messrs. Grant, +and on the 21st he started for Roebourne, one hundred and seventy +miles further, arriving there on the 26th. His after stages +were Lepack, Fremantle, Perth, Albany. At Glenelg, in South +Australia, the Colonel and his companions arrived on Easter +Sunday, having travelled by land four thousand miles, and by sea +two thousand miles.</p> +<p>The casualties are quickly recorded: the Colonel lost the +sight of one eye, and his son’s health was seriously +shaken. Out of seventeen camels, only two arrived safely at +the station on the De Grey river.</p> +<p>It is almost needless to say that everywhere in West Australia +Colonel Warburton was received with the public honours due to a +man who has courageously and successfully accomplished a work of +equal difficulty and danger. He was entertained in the most +generous and cordial manner, and the high utility of his labours +was liberally acknowledged. On his <a +name="page323"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 323</span>return to +South Australia he met, of course, with an enthusiastic +welcome. A great banquet was given to the explorers, and +the Legislative Assembly voted the sum of £1000 to the +leader, and £500 to be divided among the +subordinates. In 1874 the Royal Geographical Society of +London conferred upon him its gold medal, and a few months later +the Queen appointed him a Companion of the Order of St. Michael +and St. George.</p> +<p>Here closes a simple but stirring narrative, of which it is +not, perhaps, too much to say, as has been said, that scarcely +has a record of terrible suffering more nobly borne been given to +the world. Hunger and thirst, intense physical exhaustion, +the burning heat of a tropic sun, the glowing sands of an arid +desert—not a single circumstance was wanting that could +test the heroic endurance and patient heroism of the +explorers. The country through which they toiled day after +day was barren, inhospitable, desolate; a wilderness of coarse +yellow herbage, a sombre waste of sand-hills. Their hearts +were never cheered by bright glimpses of gorgeous scenery, of +forests clothed with magnificent vegetation, of rivers pouring +their ample waters through sylvan valleys; everywhere the +landscape was melancholy and unprofitable. He who, with his +life in his hand, penetrates the frozen recesses of the Polar +World, and dares its storms of snow and its icy winds, has at +least the inspiration to support him that springs from the +grandeur of huge cliffs of ice and vast glaciers and +white-gleaming peaks outlined against a deep blue sky. But +in the wide Australian interior the landscape is always marked by +the same monotony of <a name="page324"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 324</span>dreariness, the same uniformity of +gloom; and it tests and taxes the traveller’s energies to +rise superior to its depressing influences.</p> +<p>The reader, therefore, will feel that “the Municipal +Council and inhabitants of Fremantle” used no language of +undeserved eulogy when, in their address of welcome to Colonel +Egerton Warburton, they said—</p> +<p>“The difficulties to be overcome in the work of +Australian exploration are acknowledged to be as formidable as +are to be found in any part of our globe, and to meet these +difficulties requires a combination of intelligence, energy, +perseverance, and fortitude that few men possess; and the fact +that you have surmounted all obstacles, and borne up under so +many privations, has awakened in all our minds the deepest +feelings of gratitude and admiration.” <a +name="citation324"></a><a href="#footnote324" +class="citation">[324]</a></p> +<h2><a name="page325"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +325</span>MAJOR BURNABY,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND A RIDE TO KHIVA.</span></h2> +<h3>I.</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">That</span> vast and various region of +sandy deserts and fertile valleys, of broad open plains and lofty +highlands, which extends eastward from the Caspian Sea to the +borders of Afghanistan, and from Persia northward to the confines +of Siberia, is known to geographers by the name of Turkistan, or +“the country of the Turks.” Across it, from +north to south, strikes the massive chain of the Bolor-tagh, +dividing it into two unequal portions. The western division +is popularly known as Independent Tartary, or Great Bokhara; it +covers an area of nearly 900,000 square miles—that is, it +is ten times as large as Great Britain—and it consists of +the arid sandy plain of the Caspian and Aral Seas, and of the +hilly districts which skirt the ranges of the Bolor-Tagh, the +Thian-Shan, and the Hindu Kush. The eastern division, or +Upper Tartary, probably contains 700,000 square miles, and +extends from Asiatic Russia on the north to Thibet and Kashmir on +the south, from Mongolia on the east to the Bolor-Tagh on the +west. The Thian-Shan separates its two provinces, which the +Chinese call Thian-Shan-Pe-lû and +Thian-Shan-Nan-lû. The reader’s attention, <a +name="page326"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 326</span>however, +will be here directed only to Western Turkistan, which is divided +into the Khanates of Khokan (north-east), Badakshan (south-east), +Bokhara (east), and Khiva (west). To the north stretch the +steppes of the nomadic Kirghiz; to the south the hills and dales +are occupied by the hordes of the Turkomans. Its two great +rivers are the Amu-Daria and the Syr-Daria, the ancient +<i>Oxus</i> and <i>Jaxartes</i>,—the former traversing the +centre, and the latter the south of the district, on their way to +the great Arabian Sea; and the valleys through which they flow, +as well as those of their tributary streams, are mostly fertile +and pleasant. As might be inferred from the character of +the country, the chief resources of the population are the +breeding of domestic animals, and the cultivation of the soil; +but in the towns of Khokand, Bokhara, Urgondji, and Karshi, a +brisk manufacturing industry flourishes, which disposes of its +surplus produce, after the local demand is satisfied, to the +merchants of Russia, Persia, India, and China.</p> +<p>Since 1864, the supremacy of Russia has been steadily +advancing in Western Turkistan. In ordinary circumstances, +the extension of the power of a civilized nation over a number of +semi-barbarous states, constantly engaged in internecine warfare, +is regarded as a just and legitimate movement, or, at all events, +as one that is inevitable and calls for no expression of regret; +but the eastward progress of Russia has long been considered, by +a large party in England, as a menace to the safety of our Indian +empire. Every fresh step of the Russian armies has +therefore excited alarm or created suspicion among those who are +known as Russophobists. How far <a name="page327"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 327</span>their fear or their mistrust is +justifiable or dignified it is not our business in these pages to +inquire; but it has been necessary to allude to it because it was +this Russophobism which impelled Major (then Captain) Burnaby to +undertake the difficult, if not dangerous, task of visiting +Western Turkistan, that he might see with his own eyes what the +Russians were doing there. The Russians had recently +conquered Khokand and Khiva; it was thought they were preparing +for further annexations; and Major Burnaby determined on an +effort to reach Khiva, which during the Russian campaign had been +visited, as we have seen, by Mr. MacGahan, the war correspondent +of the <i>New York Herald</i>. Having obtained leave of +absence from his regiment, the Royal Horse Guards, Major Burnaby +rapidly equipped himself for his adventurous journey. He +was well aware that the Russian authorities did not welcome the +inquisitive eyes of English travellers, and that from them he +could expect no assistance. His confidence in his +resources, however, was great; he felt <i>totus in se ipso</i>; +and he did not intend to be baffled in his object by anything but +sheer force. The climate was another difficulty. The +cold of the Kirghiz desert is a thing unknown in any other part +of the world, even in the Arctic wastes and wildernesses; and he +would have to traverse on horseback an enormous expanse of flat +country, extending for hundreds of miles, and devoid of +everything save snow and salt-lakes, and here and there the +species of bramble-tree called saxaul. The inhabitants of +Western Europe can form no conception of the force of the winds +in Turkistan. They grumble at the pungent, irritating east; +but they little imagine what it is like in countries exposed to +<a name="page328"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 328</span>the +awful vehemence of its first onset, before its rigour has been +mitigated by the kindly ocean, and where its wild career is +unimpeded by trees or rising land, by hills or mountains. +Uninterruptedly it blows over dreary leagues of snow and salt, +absorbing the saline matter, and blighting or almost gashing the +faces of those unfortunates who are exposed to its fury. +But no fear of the east wind prevailed over Major Burnaby’s +patriotic curiosity. He provided against it as best he +could: warm were the garments specially made for him; his boots +were lined with fur; his hose were the thickest Scottish fishing +stockings; his jerseys and flannel shirts of the thickest +possible texture; and he ordered for himself a waterproof and +airproof sleeping-bag, seven feet and a half long, and two feet +round. A large aperture was left on one side, so that the +traveller might take up his quarters in the interior, and sleep +well protected from the wintry blasts. For defensive +purposes he took with him his rifle, a revolver, cartridges, and +ball. His cooking apparatus consisted of a couple of +soldier’s mess-tins. A trooper’s hold-all, with +its accompanying knife, fork, and spoon, completed his kit; and, +by way of instruments, he carried a thermometer, a barometer, and +a pocket sextant.</p> +<p>On the 30th of November, 1875, Major Burnaby left +London. He arrived at St. Petersburg on the 3rd of +December, and immediately set to work to obtain the necessary +authorization for his proposed journey, which he defined as a +tour to India <i>viâ</i> Khiva, Merv, and Kabul; in other +words, across Central Asia and Afghanistan. All that he +<i>did</i> obtain was a communication to the effect that the +commandants in <a name="page329"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +329</span>Russian Asia had received orders to assist him in +travelling through the territory under their command, but that +the Imperial Government could not acquiesce in his extending his +journey beyond its boundaries, as it could not answer for the +security or the lives of travellers except within the +Emperor’s dominions—a self-evident fact. The +reply was evidently intended to discourage Major Burnaby; but +Major Burnaby was not to be discouraged. It is not in the +English character to be daunted by a consideration of prospective +or possible dangers; certainly, it is not in the character of +English officers. So the adventurous guardsman started by +railway for Orenburg, the great centre and depôt of Central +Asiatic traffic. At Riajsk he obtained a vivid illustration +of the heterogeneous character of the Russian empire, the +waiting-room being crowded with representatives of different +nationalities. Here stalked a Tartar merchant in a long +parti-coloured gown, a pair of high boots, and a small yellow +fez. There a fur trader, in a greasy-looking black coat, +clutched his small leather bag of coin. Here an old +Bokharan, in flowing robes, was lulled by opium into a temporary +forgetfulness of his troubles. There Russian peasants moved +to and fro, with well-knit frames, clad in untanned leather, +which was bound about their loins by narrow leather belts, +studded with buttons of brass and silver. Europe and Asia +met together in the waiting-room at Riajsk station.</p> +<p>The railway went no further than Sizeran, where Major Burnaby +and a Russian gentleman hired a troika, or three-horse sleigh, to +take them to Samara. The distance was about eighty-five +miles; but as <a name="page330"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +330</span>the thermometer marked 20° below zero (R.), the +travellers found it necessary to make formidable +preparations. First they donned three pairs of the thickest +stockings, drawn up high above the knee; next, over these, a pair +of fur-lined low shoes, which in their turn were inserted into +leather goloshes; and, finally, over all, a pair of enormously +thick boots. Allow for extra thick drawers and a pair of +massive trousers; and add a heavy flannel under-shirt, a shirt +covered by a thick wadded waistcoat and coat, and an external +wrap in the form of a large shuba, or fur pelisse, reaching to +the heels; and you may suppose that the protection against the +cold was tolerably complete. The head was guarded with a +fur cap and vashlik, <i>i.e.</i> a kind of conical cloth +headpiece made to cover the cap, and having two long ends tied +round the throat. Thus accoutred, the travellers took their +places in the troika, which, drawn by three horses harnessed +abreast, and with jingling bell, rapidly descended the hill, and +dashed on to the frozen surface of the river Volga. Along +the solid highway furnished by the ice-bound stream, past +frozen-in shipping and sledges loaded with various kinds of +wares, sped the troika; sometimes, in its turn, outstripped by +other troikas,—drivers and passengers all alike white with +glittering hoar-frost, until they seemed a company of +grey-beards. The solid river flashed like a burnished +cuirass in the rays of the morning. Here the scene was +varied by a group of strangely patterned blocks and pillars; +there a fountain gracefully shooting upwards with shapely Ionic +and Doric columns, reflected a myriad prismatic hues from its +diamond-like stalactites. <a name="page331"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 331</span>Here a broken Gothic arch overhung +the shining highway; there an Egyptian obelisk lay half buried +beneath the snow. Such were the fantastic shapes into which +the strong wind had moulded the ice as it was rapidly formed.</p> +<p>Regaining the main road, Major Burnaby and his companion sped +on towards Samara. Their first halting-place was a +farmhouse, called Nijny Pegersky Hootor, twenty-five versts from +Sizeran, where some men were winnowing corn after a fashion of +antediluvian simplicity. Throwing the corn high up into the +air with a shovel, they allowed the wind to blow away the husks, +and the grain fell upon a carpet laid out to catch it. As +for the farmhouse, it was a square wooden building, containing +two low but spacious rooms. A large stove of dried clay was +so placed as to warm both apartments; and above it, a platform of +boards, not more than three feet from the ceiling, supplied the +family with sleeping accommodation. On the outside of the +building a heavy wooden door opened into a small portico, at one +end of which stood the obraz, or image—as usual an +appendage to a Russian house, as were the Lares and Penates, or +household gods, to a Roman house. The obrazye are made of +different patterns, but usually represent a saint or the Trinity; +they are executed in silver-gilt on brass relief, and adorned +with all kinds of gewgaws.</p> +<p>A fresh team having been obtained, the travellers resumed +their journey; but the cold had increased, the wind blew more +furiously, and their suffering was severe. In thick flakes +fell the constant snow, and the driver had much ado to keep the +track, while the <a name="page332"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +332</span>half-fed horses floundered along heavily, and +frequently sank up to the traces in the gathering drift. +The cracks of the whip resounded from their jaded flanks like +pistol-shots. With sarcastic apostrophes the driver +endeavoured to stimulate their progress:—</p> +<p>“Oh, sons of animals!” (whack!)</p> +<p>“Oh, spoiled one!” (whack!) This to a poor, +attenuated brute.</p> +<p>“Oh, woolly ones!” (whack, whack, whack!) +Here all were upset into a snow-drift, the sleigh being +three-parts overturned, and the driver flung in an opposite +direction.</p> +<p>The sleigh was righted; the travellers once more took their +seats; and on through the darkening day they drove, until they +came to a long straggling village, where the horses stopped +before a detached cottage. Benumbed with the bitter cold, +Major Burnaby and his companion dashed inside, and made haste, in +front of a blazing stove, to restore the suspended +circulation. Then, while the women of the house made tea in +a samovar, or urn, they unfroze in the stove some cutlets and +bread which they had carried with them, and proceeded to enjoy a +hearty repast. In one hour’s time they were ready to +start; but their driver demurred. The snowstorm was heavy; +wolves prowled along the track; the river ice might give +way. It was better to wait until the morning, when, with +beautiful horses, they might go like birds to the next +station. The two travellers could do nothing with him, and +were compelled to resign themselves to pass the night on the hard +boards, in an atmosphere infested by many unpleasant +smells. A good hour before sunrise all <a +name="page333"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 333</span>were again +in motion. The Major and his companion abandoned their +heavy troika, and engaged two small sleighs with a pair of horses +to each, one for themselves and one to carry their luggage.</p> +<p>It was a glorious winter morning, and the sun came forth like +a bridegroom to run his course, invested with indescribable pomp +of colour. First, over the whole of the eastern horizon +extended a pale blue streak, which seemed, like a wall, to shut +off the vast Beyond. Suddenly its summit changed into rare +lapis-lazuli, while its base became a sheet of purple. From +the darker lines shot wondrous waves of grey and crystal; and in +time the purple foundations upheaved into glowing seas of +fire. The wall broke up into castles, battlements, and +towers—all with magical gleams, which gradually floated far +away, while the seas of flame, lighting up the whole horizon, +burst through their borders and swelled into a mighty +ocean. The sight was one on which the eye of man could +scarcely gaze. The sunny expanse of the winter-bound earth +reflected as in a mirror the celestial panorama. Shafts of +light seemed to dart in rapid succession from earth to sky, until +at last the vast luminous orb of day rose from the depth of the +many-coloured radiance, and with its surpassing glory put +everything else to shame.</p> +<p>The travellers reached Samara—a well-built prosperous +town, situated on a tributary of the Volga. There Major +Burnaby parted from his companion, whose road thenceforward lay +in a different direction, and proceeded to make his preparations +for a drive across the steppes to Orenburg.</p> +<p><a name="page334"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 334</span>He +started next morning, in a sleigh which he had purchased, and had +caused to be well repaired, and took the road towards +Orenburg. The country was flat and uninteresting; buried +beneath a white shroud of sand, with a few trees scattered here +and there, and at intervals a dreary-looking hut or two. +The first post-station, for changing horses, was +Smeveshlaevskaya, twenty versts (a verst is two-thirds of an +English mile); the next, Bodrovsky, where Burnaby arrived a +little after sunset. After drinking a few glasses of tea to +fortify himself against the increasing cold (25° below zero, +R.), he pushed forward in the hope of reaching Malomalisky, about +twenty-six and a half versts, about nine p.m. But plunging +into the heart of a terrible snowstorm, he and his driver were so +blinded and beaten, and the horses so jaded by the swiftly +forming snow-drifts, that he was compelled to give the order to +return, and to pass the night at Bodrovsky.</p> +<p>At daybreak the resolute guardsman was on his way. In +the course of the day he fell in with General Kryjonovsky, the +governor of the Orenburg district, who was bound for St. +Petersburg; and a brief conversation with him showed that the +authorities, as he had suspected, by no means approved of his +expedition to Khiva. At one of the stations, the man +assigned to him as driver had been married only the day before, +and undertook his duties with obvious reluctance. His sole +desire was to return as quickly as possible to his bride, and +with this intent he lashed his horses until they kicked and +jumped in the most furious contortions. The Major was +thrown in the air, and caught again by the rebound; <a +name="page335"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 335</span>upset, +righted, and upset again; gun, saddle-bags, cartridge-cases, and +traveller, all simultaneously flying in the air. After a +third of these rough experiences, the Major resolved to try the +effect of a sharp application of his boot.</p> +<p>“Why do you do that?” said the driver, pulling up +his horse. “You hurt, you break my ribs.”</p> +<p>“I only do to you what you do to me,” replied the +Major. “You hurt, you break my ribs, and injure my +property besides.”</p> +<p>“Oh, sir of noble birth,” ejaculated the fellow, +“it is not my fault. It is thine, oh moody +one!” to his offside horse, accompanied by a crack from his +whip. “It is thine, oh spoilt and cherished +one!” to his other meagre and half-starved quadruped +(whack!) “Oh, petted and caressed sons of animals” +(whack, whack, whack!), “I will teach you to upset the +gentleman.”</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>At length, after a journey of four hundred versts, Orenburg +was reached. At this frontier town, situated almost on the +verge of civilization, our traveller was compelled to make a +short sojourn. He had letters of introduction to present, +which procured him some useful friends; a servant to engage, +provisions to purchase, information to collect about the route to +Khiva, and his English gold and notes to convert into Russian +coin. Through the good offices of a Moslem gentleman, he +was able to engage a Tartar, named Nazar—not five feet +high—as a servant; and after some delay he obtained from +the military chief a podorojoraya, or passport, as far as Kasala, +or Fort No. 1. This pass ran as follows: “By the <a +name="page336"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 336</span>order of +His Majesty the Emperor Alexander, the son of Nicolas, Autocrat +of the whole of Russia, etc., etc. From the town of Orsk to +the town of Kasala, to the Captain of the English service, +Frederick, the son of Gustavus Burnaby, to give three horses, +with a driver, for the legal fare, without delay. Given in +the town of Orenburg, 15th December, 1875.”</p> +<p>The next day, Frederick, “the son of Gustavus +Burnaby,” with his Tartar servant, took their departure +from Orenburg, and in a few minutes were trotting along the +frozen surface of the river Ural. Every now and then they +fell in with a caravan of rough, shaggy, undersized camels, +drawing sleighs laden with cotton from Tashkent; or a Cossack +galloped by, brandishing his long spear; or a ruddy-faced Kirghiz +slowly caracolled over the shining snow. Three stations +were passed in safety, and Burnaby resolved on halting at the +fourth, Krasnojorsk, for refreshment. But as the afternoon +closed in, the Tartar driver began to lash his weary jades +impatiently; as an excuse for his vehemence, pointing to the +clouds that were rising before them, and the signs of a gathering +snowstorm. Soon the air was filled with flakes; the +darkness rapidly increased; the driver lost his way, and, at +length, the team came to a standstill, breast deep in a +snow-drift. What was to be done? It was equally +impossible to go forward or to return; there was no wood in the +neighbourhood with which to kindle a fire, no shovel with which +to make a snow house; nothing could the belated wayfarer do but +endure the bitter cold and the silent darkness, and wait for +morning. Burnaby suffered much from the exposure, but the +great <a name="page337"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +337</span>difficulty was to prevent himself from yielding to the +fatal lethargy which extreme cold induces—from falling into +that sleep which turns inevitably into death. How he +rejoiced when the day broke, and he was able to despatch the +driver on one of the horses for assistance; and how he rejoiced +when the man returned with three post horses and some peasants, +and the road was regained, and the journey resumed, and the +station reached at last! There they rested and refreshed +themselves, before, with invigorated spirits, they dashed once +again into the snow-bound depths of the steppes.</p> +<p>After a while the aspect of the country grew more +cheery. The low chain of mountains to the north-east was +sometimes abruptly broken, and a prominent peak thrust its summit +into the interval. Through the fleecy snow various coloured +grasses were visible. Olive-tinted branches, and dark +forests of fir and pine, contrasted strongly with the whitely +shining expanse that spread as far as the eye could see. +Spider-like webs of frozen dew hung from the branches. The +thin icicles glistened like prisms with all the colours of the +rainbow. Thus, through a succession of fairy landscapes, +such as the dwellers in Western lands can form but a faint idea +of, the travellers dashed onward to Orsk.</p> +<p>Then the face of the country underwent another change. +They were fairly in the region of the steppes—those wide +and level plains which, during the brief summer, bloom with +luxuriant vegetation, and are alive with the flocks and herds of +the nomads, but in the long drear winter, from north to south and +east to west, are buried deep beneath frozen snow. <a +name="page338"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 338</span>Wherever +you direct your gaze it rests upon snow, snow, still snow; +shining with a painful glare in the mid-day sun; fading into a +dull, grey, melancholy ocean as noon lapses into twilight. +“A picture of desolation which wearies by its utter +loneliness, and at the same time appals by its immensity; a +circle of which the centre is everywhere, and the circumference +nowhere.” Travel, in this world-beyond-the-world, in +this solitude which Frost and Winter make all their own, tests +the courage and endurance of a man, for it makes no appeal to the +imagination or the fancy, it charms the eye with no pleasant +pictures, suggests no associations to the mind. But it has +its dangers, as Major Burnaby experienced. He had left the +station of Karabootak (three hundred and seventeen miles from +Orsk), and as the road was comparatively smooth, and the wind had +subsided, he leaned back in his sleigh and fell asleep. +Unluckily he had forgotten to put on his thick gloves, and his +hands, slipping from the fur-lined sleeves of his pelisse, lay +exposed to the full potency of the cold air. In a few +minutes he awoke with a feeling of intense pain; and looking at +his hands, he saw that the finger-nails were blue, blue too the +fingers and back of the hands, while the wrists and lower part of +the arms had assumed the hue of wax. They were +frost-bitten! He called his servant, and made him rub the +skin with some snow in the hope of restoring the vitality. +This he did for some minutes; but, meanwhile, the pain gradually +ascended up the arms, while the lower portion of the arms was +dead to all feeling, all sensation. “It is no +good,” said Nazar, looking sorrowfully at his master; +“we must drive on as fast as possible to the +station.”</p> +<p><a name="page339"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 339</span>The +station was some miles off. Miles? Each mile seemed +to the tortured traveller a league; each league a day’s +journey; the physical pain consumed him, wore him down as mental +anguish might have done. But at last the station was +reached; Burnaby sprang from the sleigh, rushed into the +waiting-room, and to three Cossacks whom he met there showed his +hands. Straightway they conducted him into an outer +apartment, took off his coat, bared his arms, and plunged him +into a tub of ice and water up to the shoulders. He felt +nothing.</p> +<p>“Brother,” said the eldest of the soldiers, +shaking his head, “it is a bad job; you will lose your +hands.”</p> +<p>“They will drop off,” remarked another, “if +we cannot get back the circulation.”</p> +<p>“Have you any spirit with you?” asked a third.</p> +<p>Nazar, on hearing this inquiry, immediately ran out, and +returned with a tin bottle containing naphtha for cooking +purposes; upon which the Cossacks, taking the Major’s arms +out of the icy water, proceeded to rub them with the strong +spirit.</p> +<p>Rub, rub, rub; the skin peeled under their horny hands, and +the spirit irritated the membrane below. At last a faint +sensation like tickling—we are using the Major’s own +words—pervaded the elbow-joints, and he slightly +flinched.</p> +<p>“Does it hurt?” asked the eldest Cossack.</p> +<p>“A little.”</p> +<p>“Capital, brothers,” he continued; “rub as +hard as you can;” and after continuing the friction until +the flesh was almost flayed, they suddenly plunged his arms again +into the ice and water. This time, the pain was sharp.</p> +<p><a name="page340"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +340</span>“Good,” exclaimed the Cossacks. +“The more it hurts, the better chance you have of saving +your hands.” And after a short time they let him +remove his arms from the tub.</p> +<p>“You are fortunate, little father,” said the +eldest Cossack. “If it had not been for the spirit +your hands would have dropped off, even if you had not lost your +arms.”</p> +<p>“Rough, kind-hearted fellows were these poor +soldiers,” adds Major Burnaby; “and when I forced on +the oldest of them a present for himself and comrades, the old +soldier simply said, ‘Are we not all brothers when in +misfortune? Would you not have helped me if I had been in +the same predicament?’”</p> +<p>The Major shook his hand heartily, and retired to the +waiting-room to rest upon the sofa, as the physical shock he had +undergone had for the moment thoroughly prostrated him. +Moreover, his arms were sore and inflamed, the spirit having in +some places penetrated the raw flesh; and several weeks elapsed +before he thoroughly recovered from the effects of his +carelessness.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>At Terekli, about five hundred miles from Orenburg, our +traveller entered the province of Turkistan, and found himself in +the region which acknowledges the authority of General +Kauffmann—a restless and ambitious soldier, to whose energy +much of Russia’s recent advance eastward would seem to be +due. He still pushed forward with characteristic +resolution, braving the terrors of the climate and the dangers of +the road in his determined purpose to reach Khiva. At one +station no horses were to be obtained, and, instead, <a +name="page341"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 341</span>three +gigantic camels were harnessed to the tiny sleigh. A +strange spectacle! “I have tried many ways of +locomotion in my life, from fire-balloons to bicycles, from +canoes and bullocks to cows, camels, and donkeys; whilst in the +East the time-honoured sedan of our grandfathers has occasionally +borne me and my fortunes; but never had I travelled in so comical +a fashion. A Tartar rode the centre camel. His +head-gear would have called attention, if nothing else had, for +he wore a large black hat, which reminded me of an inverted +coal-scuttle, whilst a horn-like protuberance sticking out from +its summit gave a diabolical appearance to his lobster-coloured +visage. The hat, which was made of sheepskin, had the white +wool inside, which formed a striking contrast to the flaming +countenance of the excited Tartar. He had replaced the +usual knout used for driving, by a whip armed with a thin cord +lash, and he urged on his ungainly team more by the shrill sounds +of his voice than by any attempt at flagellation, the Tartar +seldom being able to get more than four miles an hour from the +lazy brutes.</p> +<p>“All of a sudden the camel in the centre quickly +stopped, and the rider was precipitated head-over-heels in the +snow. Luckily, it was soft falling; there were no bones +broken, and in a minute or two he was again in the saddle, having +changed the system of harnessing, and placed one of the camels as +leader, whilst the other two were driven as wheelers. We +got on very fairly for a little while, when the foremost of our +train having received a rather sharper application of the lash +than he deemed expedient remonstrated with his rider by lying +down. Coaxing <a name="page342"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 342</span>and persuasion were now used; he was +promised the warmest of stalls, the most delicious of water, if +he would only get up. But this the beast absolutely +declined to do, until the cold from the snow striking against his +body induced him to rise from the ground.</p> +<p>“We now went even slower than before. Our driver +was afraid to use his whip for fear of another ebullition of +temper on the part of the delinquent, and confined himself to +cracking his whip in the air. The sounds of this proceeding +presently reaching the ears of the leader, perhaps made him think +that his companions were undergoing chastisement. Anyhow, +it appeared to afford him some satisfaction, for, quickening his +stride, he compelled his brethren behind to accelerate their +pace; and after a long, wearisome drive we arrived at our +destination.”</p> +<p>Under the influence of milder weather the aspect of the +country rapidly modified and brightened, and instead of a uniform +sheet of frozen snow, broad patches of vegetation met the +eye. On these the Kirghiz horses were browsing with evident +delight. How they live through the winter is a mystery, as +their owners seldom feed them with corn, and they are compelled +to trust to the scanty grasses which may still be partially alive +underneath the snow. Nor are they in any way protected from +the cold. As a necessary consequence, the spring finds them +reduced to mere skeletons, whose ribs are barely covered by their +parchment-like skin; but they soon gain in flesh and strength +when once the rich pasturage of the steppes is at their +disposal. Their powers of endurance are wonderful; and +without rest, or water, or food, they will accomplish surprising +distances, maintaining a <a name="page343"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 343</span>first-rate speed. An instance +is on record of a Kirghiz chief having galloped two hundred +miles, over a rocky and mountainous ground, in twenty-four +hours. A Russian detachment of cavalry, mounted on Kirghiz +horses, marched 333 miles in six days.</p> +<p>Major Burnaby was soon apprised that he was nearing the Sea +(or Lake) of Aral by the salt breeze which blew persistently in +his face. The whole district for miles around was +impregnated with salt, and the springs and streams had all a +brackish taste and strong saline flavour. At Nicolaivskaya +his road touched close upon the north-eastern extremity of the +sea. This great inland basin of brackish water is separated +from the Caspian by the dense plateau of Ust-Urt. It +measures about 260 miles from north to south, and 125 from east +to west. On the north-east it receives the waters of the +Syr-Daria, or Jaxartes; on the south-east those of the Amu-Daria, +or Oxus. As it is on the same level with the Caspian, we +may reasonably suppose that both seas were at one time +connected. Owing to the excessive evaporation which takes +place, it is understood to be decreasing in size.</p> +<p>At Kasala, or Fort No. 1, our traveller struck the Syr-Daria, +some forty or fifty miles above its outlet in the Aral. +Kasala is inhabited by nomad Kirghiz, who pitch their kibitkas in +its outskirts in the winter, to resume their migratory life with +the first breath of spring; by Russian and Tartar merchants, who +dwell in one-storied houses, built of brick or cement; and by a +motley population of Greeks, Khivans, Bokharans, Tashkentians, +and Turcomans generally, attracted thither by the hope of <a +name="page344"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 344</span>gain. +Owing to its geographical position, it is the centre of a +considerable trade; for all goods to Orenburg from Western +Turkistan must pass through it. Its civil population +numbers about 5000 souls; its garrison consists of about 350 +infantry and 400 cavalry, and it is also the head-quarters in +winter of the sailors of the Aral fleet, which is made up of four +small steamers of light draught. As for the fort, it is +simply an earthwork, constructed in the shape of a half-star, +with a bastion on the south extending to the bank of the +Syr-Daria. A dry ditch, thirty feet broad by twelve feet +deep, and a parapet, eight feet high and twelve feet thick, +surround it. Sufficiently strong to overawe the Kirghiz, it +could offer no effective resistance to an European force.</p> +<p>Major Burnaby paid a visit to a Kirghiz kibitka, or tent, and +his description of it may be compared with Mr. +Atkinson’s. Inside it was adorned with thick carpets +of various hues, and bright-coloured cushions, for the +accommodation of the inmates. In the centre a small fire +gave out a cloud of white smoke, which rose in coils and wreaths +to the roof, and there escaped through an aperture left for the +purpose. The fuel used is saxaul, the wood of the bramble +tree, and it emits an acrid, pungent odour. The women in +the tent had their faces uncovered; they received their visitor +with a warm welcome, and spread some rugs for him to sit down by +their side. They were all of them moon-faced, with large +mouths, but good eyes and teeth.</p> +<p>The master of the kibitka, who was clad in a long brown robe, +thickly wadded to keep out the cold, <a name="page345"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 345</span>poured some water into a large +caldron, and proceeded to make tea, while a young girl handed +round raisins and dried currants. A brief conversation then +arose. The Kirghiz were much surprised to learn that their +visitor was not a Russian, but had come from a far Western land, +and were even more surprised to find that he had brought no wife +with him—a wife, in the opinion of the Kirghiz, being as +indispensable to a man’s happiness as a horse or +camel. In entering into matrimony, the Kirghiz have one +great advantage over the other Moslem races; they see the girls +whom they wish to marry, and are allowed to converse with them +before the bargain is concluded between the parents, one hundred +sheep being the average price given for a young woman.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>On the 12th of January Major Burnaby left Kasala for +Khiva. His retinue consisted of three camels, loaded with a +tent, forage, and provisions, his Tartar servant, who bestrode +the largest camel, and a Kirghiz guide, who, like himself, was +mounted on horseback. His provisions included stchi, or +cabbage soup, with large pieces of meat cut up in it, which, +having been poured into two large iron stable buckets, had become +hard frozen, so that it could be easily carried slung on a +camel’s back. He also took with him twenty pounds of +cooked meat. A hatchet, to chop up the meat or cut down +brushwood for a fire, and a cooking lamp, with a supply of +spirit, formed part of his equipment.</p> +<p>Crossing the icy surface of the Syr-Daria, our traveller once +more plunged into the solitude of the <a name="page346"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 346</span>steppes, bravely facing the +storm-wind and the ridges of snow which rolled before it, like +the wave-crests of a frozen sea. After a five hours’ +march, he called a halt, that the camels might rest and be +fed—for they will feed only in the daytime; wherefore it is +wise to march them as much as possible during the night. +Their ordinary pace is about two miles and a third in an hour; +and the best plan is to start at midnight, unload them for about +two hours in the day to feed, and halt at sunset: thus securing +sixteen hours’ work per day, and accomplishing a daily +journey of at least thirty-seven miles.</p> +<p>The kibitka was soon raised. “Imagine,” says +our traveller, “a bundle of sticks, each five feet three +inches in length, and an inch in diameter; these are connected +with each other by means of cross sticks, through the ends of +which holes are bored, and leather thongs passed. This +allows plenty of room for all the sticks to open out freely; they +then form a complete circle, about twelve feet in diameter, and +five feet three in height. They do not require any pressing +into the ground, for the circular shape keeps them steady. +When this is done, a thick piece of cashmar, or cloth made of +sheep’s wool, is suspended from their tops, and reaches to +the ground. This forms a shield through which the wind +cannot pass. Another bundle of sticks is then +produced. They are all fastened at one end to a small +wooden cross, about six inches long by four broad; a man standing +in the centre of the circle raises up this bundle in the air, the +cross upwards, and hitches their other ends by means of little +leather loops one by one on the different upright sticks which +form the circular walls. <a name="page347"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 347</span>The result is, they all pull against +each other, and are consequently self-supporting; another piece +of cloth is passed round the outside of this scaffolding, leaving +a piece uncovered at the top to allow the smoke to escape. +One stick is removed from the uprights which form the +walls. This constitutes a door, and the kibitka is +complete.”</p> +<p>While the Major and his followers were enjoying a meal of rice +and mutton, and a glass of hot tea, three Khivans rode up to +them—a merchant and his two servants. The Khivan +merchant was strongly built, and about five feet ten inches in +height. He wore a tall, conical black Astrakhan hat; an +orange-coloured dressing-gown, thickly quilted, and girt about +the loins with a long, red sash; and over all, enveloping him +from hand to foot, a heavy sheepskin mantle. His weapons +consisted of a long, single-barrelled gun, and a short, richly +mounted sabre. An exchange of civilities followed, and then +both parties retired to rest. At about three o’clock +in the morning, after some difficulty with his guide and +camel-driver, the Major resumed his march, and for six hours the +weary tramp and toil over the frost-bound plain continued. +At nine a halt was called, soup was made, and the party +breakfasted. By the time they were ready to set out again, +the Khivan merchant’s caravan had come up, and all went on +together.</p> +<p>In advance rode the guide, singing a song in praise of mutton, +and descriptive of his partiality for that succulent meat. +The Kirghiz poets make the sheep the special subject of their +metrical eulogium; in truth, it fills in their poetry as +conspicuous a place as <a name="page348"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 348</span>the dove in the love-songs of the +Latin bards. Nor is to be wondered at. The sheep +represents the wealth, the property of the nomads. During +the summer and autumn they live upon their milk, and never think +of killing them except to do honour to a guest by serving up +before him a leg of mutton. In the winter they are, of +course, obliged very frequently to sacrifice the highly esteemed +animal, but they live upon horseflesh and camel’s flesh as +much as they can. Their clothing is furnished by the sheep, +being made entirely of sheep’s wool wrought into a coarse +homespun. Finally, if they want to buy a horse, a camel, or +a wife, they pay in sheep; and a man’s worth in the world +is reckoned by the numbers of his flock.</p> +<p>On the following day, in the course of their march, the +travellers came upon a Kirghiz encampment, the members of which +were considerably excited by Major Burnaby’s announcement +of his desire to purchase a whole sheep. The head of the +principal kibitka, accompanied by a pretty Kirghiz girl, hastened +to conduct him to the sheepfold, that he might select an animal, +and the fattest of the flock became his for the small sum of four +roubles. The pretty young girl acted as butcher, receiving +the skin and head in acknowledgment of her trouble, and the +carcase was conveyed to the Major’s tent, where it was duly +cooked, and devoured by his followers, who showed the most +intense appreciation of his liberality.</p> +<p>The march being resumed, Major Burnaby made for a place called +Kalenderhana, instead of the Russian settlement of +Petro-Alexandrovsky, having a shrewd suspicion that if he went +thither, as the <a name="page349"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +349</span>governor of Kasala had desired, he would, in some way +or other, be prevented from reaching Khiva. Pushing forward +steadily, he left his Khivan merchant far behind, and strode +across an undulating country in the direction of +south-south-west. Next he came into a salt district, barren +and dreary; and afterwards reached the desert of Jana-Daria, the +dried-up bed of a river, which is lost in the sand. Still +continuing his march, he came upon an unbounded ocean of sand, +which, in the glaring sunshine, glittered like a sea of molten +gold. When this was traversed, the country grew pleasanter +and more fertile. Traces of game appeared. Sometimes +a brown hare darted through the herbage; while in the distance +herds of saigak, or antelopes, bounded with elastic tread across +the sward. A chain of mountains running east and west rose +up before the wanderer’s path, and presented a picturesque +spectacle, with their broken crests, sharp pinnacles, and masses +of shining quartz. Upon their rugged sides could be traced +the furrows ploughed by the torrents which the spring lets loose +and feeds with its abundant rains. Through a dark and deep +defile, about seven miles long, the little company penetrated the +mountain barrier of the Kazan-Tor, and descended into a broad +plain, overspread by a network of canals for irrigation, where a +striking indication of the desultory but ceaseless hostilities +waged between the Kirghiz and the Turcomans was presented in the +rude fortifications, a high ditch and a wattled palisade, that +encircled every little village. Kalenderhana was fortified +in this manner. Here Major Burnaby was warmly welcomed, and +in great state escorted to his Kirghiz <a +name="page350"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +350</span>guide’s house, or kibitka, where a curious throng +quickly surrounded him, and proceeded to examine, and comment +unreservedly upon, every part of his attire. Major Burnaby, +if less outspoken, was not less curious, and carefully noted that +the hostess was a good-looking woman, clad in a flowing white +dressing-gown, with a whiter turban, folded many times around her +small head. The brother-in-law, a short hump-backed fellow, +had a horse to sell, which Major Burnaby expressed his +willingness to purchase, if he went to Khiva. The guide had +been ordered by the Russian governor of Kasala to conduct the +Englishman to Petro-Alexandrovsky, and at first he was reluctant +to run the risk of punishment; but the domestic pressure put upon +him could not be resisted, and he agreed to go to Khiva, on +condition that the Major completed his bargain with the +horse-dealer. This was at last arranged, and a Tartar being +sent forward with a letter to the Khan, requesting permission to +visit his capital, the traveller resumed his journey, with Nazar +proudly seated astride the new purchase.</p> +<p>A brief ride carried them to the bank of the great Amu-Daria, +the Oxus of Alexander the Great, which at this time was frozen +over, presenting a solid highway of ice, half a mile in +breadth. There they met with some Khivan +merchants—stalwart men, with dark complexions and large +eyes, dressed in long red thickly wadded dressing-gowns and +cone-shaped black lambskin hats. A caravan of camels was +crossing the river, and numerous arbas, or two-wheeled carts, +each drawn by one horse, passed to and fro. Every man whom +they encountered saluted them with the <a +name="page351"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 351</span>customary +Arab greeting, “<i>Salam aaleikom</i>!” to which the +response was always given, “<i>Aaleikom +salam</i>!” Soon after crossing the frozen river, +Major Burnaby determined to halt for the night; and the guide +began to look about for suitable quarters. He pulled up at +last by the side of a large, substantial-looking square building, +built of clay. A rap at the high wooden gates brought out +an old man bent nearly double with age, who, on hearing that the +travellers wanted a night’s hospitality, immediately called +to his servants to take charge of the horses and camels, and +across the square-walled courtyard ushered Major Burnaby into his +house. The guest-room was spacious and lofty. One end +of it was covered with thick carpets; this was the place of +honour for visitors. In the centre a small square hearth +was filled with charcoal embers, confined within a coping about +three inches high. On the coping stood a richly chased +copper ewer—which might have been dug out of the ruins of +the buried Pompeii, so classic was it in shape and +appearance—with a long swan-like neck, constructed so as to +assist the attendant in pouring water over the hands of his +master’s guests before they began their repast. On +one side of the hearth was a square hole about three feet deep, +filled with water, and reached by a couple of steps. It was +the place of ablution—something like the <i>impluvium</i> +in a Roman villa—and its sides were lined with ornamental +tiles. The windows were represented by two narrow slits, +each about two feet long by six inches wide, while some open +wooden trellis-work supplied the place of glass.</p> +<p>After a brief absence the host reappeared, carrying <a +name="page352"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 352</span>in his hand +a large earthenware dish full of rice and mutton, while his +servants followed, with baskets of bread and hard-boiled +eggs. A pitcher of milk was also produced, and an enormous +melon, weighing quite twenty-five pounds. When the host and +his visitor had completed their repast, they began to converse, +the Khivan asking many questions about the countries which the +Englishman had travelled. To his inquiry whether there were +camels in England, Major Burnaby replied with an amusing +description of our railways and locomotives.</p> +<p>“We have trains,” he said, “composed of +arbas with iron wheels; they run upon long strips of iron, which +are laid upon the ground for the wheels to roll over.”</p> +<p>“Do the horses drag them very fast?” asked the +Khivan.</p> +<p>“We do not use live horses, but we make a horse of iron +and fill him with water, and put fire under the water. The +water boils and turns into steam. The steam is very +powerful; it rushes out of the horse’s stomach, and turns +large wheels which we give him instead of legs. The wheels +revolve over the iron lines which we have previously laid down, +and the horse, which we call an engine, moves very quickly, +dragging the arbas behind him; they are made of wood and iron, +and have four wheels, not two, like your arbas in Khiva. +The pace is so great that if your Khan had an iron horse and a +railway, he could go to Kasala in one day.”</p> +<p>Next morning, after remunerating his host for his hospitality, +Major Burnaby proceeded towards the goal of his daring +enterprise. He passed through <a name="page353"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 353</span>the busy trading town of Oogentel, +the first in Khivan territory on the road from Kalenderhana, and, +as an Englishman, attracted the attention of the +population. This attention grew into wild excitement, when +he found his way to a barber, intent upon getting rid of a beard +of thirteen weeks’ growth. In Oogentel the people +shave their heads and not their chins; so that the +traveller’s desire to have his chin shaved, instead of his +head, begat an extraordinary sensation. An increasing crowd +gathered round the barber’s shop; moullahs (or priests), +camel-drivers, and merchants jostling one another in their +anxiety to obtain good points of view, like the London populace +on the Lord Mayor’s Show day. The thought occurred to +Major Burnaby that this fanatical Moslem multitude might not be +displeased if the barber cut an unbeliever’s throat, and it +was not without a qualm he resigned himself to his hands. +No such catastrophe happened, however; but the barber, rendered +nervous by the accumulated gaze of hundreds of eyes, let slip the +thin strip of steel which did duty for a razor, and inflicted a +slight wound on his customer’s cheek. As no soap was +used, and the substitute for a razor was innocent of +“edge,” the operation was sufficiently disagreeable; +and if the crowd were sorry, Major Burnaby was heartily rejoiced +when it came to an end and he was free to continue his +journey.</p> +<p>At nine versts from Oogentel he and his party crossed the +canal of the Shabbalat, and rode through a barren tract of sand +until they arrived at a cemetery. The tombs were made of +dried clay, and fashioned into the strangest shapes; while over +several of the <a name="page354"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +354</span>larger floated banners or white flags, from poles ten +or twelve feet high, indicating the last resting-place of some +unknown and unchronicled hero. <i>Multi fortes vixerunt +ante Agamemnona</i>; but they have found no bard to record their +deeds of prowess in immortal verse. The Khivan warriors who +fell in defence of their wild father-land must sleep for ever in +nameless graves.</p> +<p>At a village called Shamahoolhur, the traveller was received +with true Khivan hospitality. His entertainer was a +fair-looking man, with a genial address and a hearty glance in +his dark eyes, and appeared, from his surroundings, to be +possessed of considerable wealth. He was a sportsman, and +kept several hawks; these birds being used in Khiva to fly at the +saigahs and hares. The bird strikes his victim between its +eyes with a force which stuns or confuses it, so that it can make +no resistance or attempt at escape when the hounds seize it.</p> +<p>“Do you not hunt in this way in your country?” +said the Khivan.</p> +<p>“No; we hunt foxes, but only with hounds, and we +ourselves follow on horseback.”</p> +<p>“Are your horses like our own?” he asked.</p> +<p>“No; they are most of them stouter built, have stronger +shoulders, and are better animals; but though they can gallop +faster than your horses for a short distance, I do not think they +can last so long.”</p> +<p>“Which do you like best, your horse or your wife?” +inquired the man.</p> +<p>“That depends upon the woman,” I replied; and the +guide, here joining in the conversation, said that <a +name="page355"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 355</span>in England +they did not buy or sell their wives, and that I was not a +married man.</p> +<p>“What! you have not got a wife?”</p> +<p>“No; how could I travel if I had one?”</p> +<p>“Why, you might leave her behind, and lock her up, as +our merchants do with their wives when they go on a +journey!”</p> +<p>The next morning Major Burnaby encountered on the road the +messenger he had despatched to Khiva. He was accompanied by +two Khivan noblemen, one of whom courteously saluted the English +traveller, and explained that the Khan had sent him to escort him +into the city, and bid him welcome.</p> +<p>They rapidly approached the capital, and above its belt of +trees could see its glittering crown of minarets and domes. +The landscape round about it was very pleasant to see, with its +leafy groves, its walled orchards, and its avenues of mulberry +trees; and recalled to the traveller’s mind the +descriptions which figure in the pages of Oriental +story-tellers. A swift ride brought the party to the gates +of Khiva. The city is built in an oblong form, and +surrounded by two walls; of which the outer is not less than +fifty feet in height, and constructed of baked bricks, with the +upper part of dried clay. This forms the first line of +defence. At a quarter of a mile within it rises the second +wall, somewhat lower than the first, and protected by a dry +ditch. It immediately surrounds the tower. The space +between the two walls is used as a market, and high above the +throng of vendors and buyers, and the press of cattle, horses, +sheep, and camels, rises the cross-beam of the ghastly gallows, +on which all people convicted of theft are executed.</p> +<p><a name="page356"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 356</span>But +as we have already spoken of this now famous city, we must +confine ourselves in these pages to Major Burnaby’s +individual adventures. Lodging was provided for him in the +house of his escort, and directly on his entry he was served with +refreshments. Afterwards he was conducted to the +bath. In the evening a succession of visitors arrived; and +it was late when the Major was at liberty to seek repose.</p> +<h3>II.</h3> +<p>In the afternoon of the following day two officials arrived +from the Khan, with an escort of six men on horseback and four on +foot, to conduct the English officer to the palace. +Mounting his horse, he rode forth, preceded by the six horsemen, +and with an official on either side; the rear being brought up by +Nazar, with some attendants on foot, who lashed out freely with +their long whips when the staring crowd drew inconveniently near +the <i>cortége</i>. Fresh sightseers arrived every +moment, for the name of England exercises a charm and a power in +Khiva, where people are never weary of talking of the nation +which holds in fee the gorgeous Indian empire, and is regarded as +the rival and inevitable foe of the White Czar. The very +housetops were lined with curious eyes. Through the hum and +din of voices the Englishman proceeded to the Khan’s +residence; a large building, with pillars and domes reflecting +the sun’s rays from their bright glazed tiles. At the +gates stood a guard of thirty or forty men with flashing +scimitars. The company passed into a small <a +name="page357"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 357</span>courtyard, +from which a door opened into a low passage, and this led to some +squalid corridors, terminating in a large square room, where was +seated the treasurer, with three moullahs, busily engaged in +counting up his money. He made a sign to the attendants, +and a large wooden box was at once pushed forward, and offered to +Major Burnaby as a seat. An interval of fifteen minutes, as +the playwrights say, followed. Then a messenger entered the +room, and announced that the Khan was at liberty to receive the +stranger. Away through a long corridor, and across an inner +courtyard, to the reception-hall—a large dome-shaped tent +or kibitka. A curtain was drawn aside, and the Englishman +found himself face to face with the celebrated Khan.</p> +<p>The portrait he draws of the Khivan potentate differs in some +particulars from that drawn by Mr. MacGahan (see p. +283):—“He is taller than the average of his subjects, +being quite five feet ten in height, and is strongly built. +His face is of a broad massive type; he has a low square +forehead, large dark eyes, a short straight nose, with dilated +nostrils, and a coal-black beard and moustache. An enormous +mouth, with irregular but white teeth, and a chin somewhat +concealed by his beard, and not at all in character with the +otherwise determined appearance of his face, must complete the +picture. He did not look more than eight and twenty, and +had a pleasant genial smile, and a merry twinkle in his eye, very +unusual amongst Orientals; in fact, a Spanish expression would +describe him better than any English one I can think of. He +is <i>muy simpatico</i>. . . . The Khan was dressed in a +similar sort of costume to that <a name="page358"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 358</span>generally worn by his subjects, but +it was made of much richer materials, and a jewelled sword was +lying by his feet. His head was covered by a tall black +Astrakhan hat, of a sugar-loaf shape.”</p> +<p>Tea having been served in a small porcelain cup, the Khan +entered into conversation with his visitor, through the medium of +Nazar, a Kirghiz interpreter, and a moullah. At first it +turned upon the relations existing between England and Russia, +the Crimean War, the Indian Government, and other branches of +<i>la haute politique</i>; the Khan displaying a quick and clear +intelligence. At last he said—</p> +<p>“You do not have a Khan at the head of +affairs?”</p> +<p>“No,” replied Burnaby, “a Queen; and her +Majesty is advised as to her policy by her ministers, who for the +time being are supposed to represent the opinion of the +country.”</p> +<p>“And does that opinion change?”</p> +<p>“Very frequently; and since your country was conquered +we have had a fresh Government, whose policy is diametrically +opposite to that held by the previous one; and in a few +years’ time we shall have another change, for in our +country, as the people advance in knowledge and wealth, they +require fresh laws and privileges. The result of this is, +they choose a different set of people to represent them;” +and the Major entered on a brief exposition of constitutional +principles, which to the Khan must surely have been +unintelligible.</p> +<p>“Can your Queen have a subject’s head cut +off?”</p> +<p>“No, not without a trial before our judges.”</p> +<p>“Then she never has their throats cut?” [the +Khivan punishment for murder].</p> +<p><a name="page359"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +359</span>“No.”</p> +<p>“Hindostan is a very wonderful country,” continued +the Khan; “the envoy I sent there a few years ago <a +name="citation359"></a><a href="#footnote359" +class="citation">[359]</a> has told me of your railroads and +telegraphs; but the Russians have railroads, too.”</p> +<p>“Yes,” replied Burnaby; “we lent them money, +and our engineers have helped to make them.”</p> +<p>“Do the Russians pay you for this?” he +inquired.</p> +<p>“Yes; so far they have behaved very +honourably.”</p> +<p>“Are there not Jews in your country like some of the +Jews at Bokhara?”</p> +<p>“One of the richest men in England is a Jew.”</p> +<p>“The Russians do not take away the money from the +Jews?”</p> +<p>“No.”</p> +<p>Here the Khan said a few words to his treasurer, and then +remarked, in allusion to the tribute he pays to Russia +annually:—“Why do they take money from me, +then? The Russians love money very much.” As he +said this, he shook his head sorrowfully at the treasurer; and +the latter, assuming a dolorous expression, poured out with a +pitiful accent the monosyllable “Hum!” which, in +Khivan language, seems to convey as pregnant a meaning as Lord +Burleigh’s shake of the head in “The +Critic.”</p> +<p>With a low bow from the Khan, the interview terminated.</p> +<p>On the following day Major Burnaby visited the Khan’s +gardens, which lie about three-quarters of a mile from the +town. They are five in number, surrounded by high walls of +sun-dried clay, and each from four to five acres in extent. +Entering one of <a name="page360"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +360</span>them, our traveller discovered that it was neatly laid +out and trimly kept. The fruit trees, arranged in long +avenues, were carefully cut and pruned; apple, pear, and cherry +trees abounded. In the spring melons are grown on a large +scale; and in the summer trellis-work arbours of vines, loaded +with grapes, afford a delightful shelter from the sun’s +fierce glare. In a small summer-palace here, the Khan holds +his court in June and July, and on a raised stone daïs +outside sits to administer justice.</p> +<p>Returning to Khiva, Burnaby visited the prison and the +principal school—the invariable accompaniments of +civilization, however imperfect. But may we not hope that, +some day, the school will destroy the gaol, and relieve +civilization from the reproach of barbarism that still attaches +to it? Meanwhile, Nazar was preparing for the Major’s +contemplated expedition to Bokhara, his tour to Merv and Meshed, +and his journey from Persia into India, and so back to +England. It was the 27th of January, and he had determined +to spend only one more day in Khiva. But his plans were +upset by an unexpected incident. On the morning of the +28th, just after his return from a ride through the market, he +was “interviewed” by two strangers, who presented him +with a letter from the commandant of Petro-Alexandrovsky, the +Russian fort he had so determinedly avoided. It was to the +effect that a telegram, which had been forwarded <i>viâ</i> +Tashkent, awaited him at the fort, whither he must be pleased to +repair to receive it. How or why any person should consider +him of importance enough to despatch a telegram so many thousands +of miles, and should go to the expense a sending it from Tashkent +<a name="page361"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 361</span>where +the telegraph ends, to Khiva, a distance of nine hundred miles, +by couriers with relays of horses, Burnaby could not +understand. But there was no help for it. He must +hasten to Petro-Alexandrovsky, where he did not want to go, and +abandon his trip to Bokhara and Merv, where he very much wished +to go. So he paid a visit to the bazar, and afterwards took +leave of the Khan, who bestowed upon him the honourable gift of a +khalat, or dressing-gown, and on the 29th bade adieu to +Khiva.</p> +<p>He reached Petro-Alexandrovsky on the second day, and found +that the important telegram which had travelled so far was one +from the Duke of Cambridge, Field-Marshal Commanding-in-Chief, +requiring his immediate return to European Russia. He found +also that the Russian Government had given orders for his return +by the shortest route to Kasala. All hope of further +exploration and adventure in Central Asia had to be +abandoned. Before leaving Petro-Alexandrovsky, the +disappointed traveller had an opportunity of accompanying a +coursing party, and sharing in a day’s novel sport. +There were horses and men of all kinds and shapes, Russians, +Bokharans, Kirghiz, short-legged men on giant steeds, and +long-legged men on short-legged horses. A short colonel, +said to be well versed in the pastime, acted as master of the +hunt. Behind him were led seven or eight greyhounds in +couples; while a stalwart Khivan bore on his elbow a hooded +falcon, graceful enough to have figured in Mr. Tennyson’s +poetical little drama. Amid a storm of cries and shouts and +yells, the hunters rode forward at a rattling pace, crossing a +flat open country, intersected by a ditch or two; <a +name="page362"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 362</span>until, +after an eight miles’ run, they arrived at the cover, a +narrow tract of bush and bramble-covered ground stretching down +to the bank of the frozen Oxus. Forming in a line, at a +distance of twenty yards from one another, the horsemen rode +through bush and bramble. A sharp yell from a Kirghiz, and +after a startled hare, which had left its covert, dashed +Russians, Bokharans, Englishman, and hounds. On they went, +down the slippery river bank, across the shining ice, towards a +dense bit of copse, where it looked as if poor puss might find an +asylum from her pursuers. But at this moment the falcon was +launched into the air. A swift swooping flight, and whir of +wings, and in a second it was perched on its victim’s back, +while around it gathered the well-trained dogs, with open mouths +and lolling tongues, not daring to approach the quarry. The +master galloped up, seized the prize, and in a few minutes more +the hunt was resumed; nor did the horsemen turn their faces +homeward until five hares had rewarded their chivalrous +efforts.</p> +<p>In company with two Russian officers, and an escort of ten +Cossacks, Major Burnaby, after a pleasant sojourn at +Petro-Alexandrovsky, set out on his return to Kasala. As +the weather was warmer, and the snow had begun to melt, the three +officers travelled in a tarantass, drawn by six Kirghiz horses; +the said tarantass closely resembling a hansom cab which, after +its wheels have been removed, has been fastened in a +brewer’s dray. It has no springs, and it runs upon +small but solid wooden wheels. They had gone but a few +miles before they came again into a land of snow; the horses had +to be taken out, <a name="page363"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +363</span>and a couple of camels substituted. At night they +bivouacked, resuming their journey before daybreak. It was +a picturesque sight:—“First, the Cossacks, the +barrels of their carbines gleaming in the moonlight, the vashlik +of a conical shape surmounting each man’s low cap, and +giving a ghastly appearance to the riders. Their distorted +shadows were reflected on the snow beneath, and appeared like a +detachment of gigantic phantoms pursuing our little force. +Then the tarantass, drawn by two large camels, which slowly +ploughed their way through the heavy track, the driver nodding on +his box but half awake, the two officers in the arms of Morpheus +inside, and the heavy woodwork creaking at each stride of the +enormous quadrupeds. In the wake of this vehicle strode the +baggage camels. The officers’ servants were fast +asleep on the backs of their animals, one man lying with his face +to the tail, and snoring hard in spite of the continued movement; +another fellow lay stretched across his saddle, apparently a good +deal the worse for drink. He shouted out at intervals the +strains of a Bacchanalian ditty. Nazar, who was always +hungry, could be seen walking in the rear. He had kept back +a bone from the evening meal, and was gnawing it like a dog, his +strong jaws snapping as they closed on the fibrous mutton. +I generally remained by our bivouac fire an hour or so after the +rest of the party had marched, and seated by the side of the +glowing embers, watched the caravan as it vanished slowly in the +distance.”</p> +<p>At mid-day, on the 12th of February, Burnaby and his +companions galloped across the frozen highway of the Syr-Daria, +and into the streets of Kasala, having <a +name="page364"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 364</span>ridden +three hundred and seventy one miles in exactly nine days and two +hours. He remained at Kasala for a few days, endeavouring +to obtain permission to return to European Russia +<i>viâ</i> Western Siberia; but his application failed, and +he was informed that the authorization he had received to travel +in Russian Asia had been cancelled. There was nothing to be +done, therefore, but to complete the necessary preparations for +his journey to Orenburg. A sleigh was hired, and amid a +chorus of farewells from his Russian acquaintances, who showed +themselves more friendly than their Government, he started on his +homeward route, having undergone some novel experiences, and seen +Khiva, but gathered no information of any value to geographers or +men of science. In fact, the chief interest attaching to +Major Burnaby’s expedition is personal: it shows that he +was a man of much energy, resolution, and perseverance, and he +may fairly be complimented on the good use he made of these +qualities in his bold but unsuccessful Ride to Khiva. <a +name="citation364"></a><a href="#footnote364" +class="citation">[364]</a></p> +<h2><a name="page365"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 365</span>SIR +SAMUEL BAKER,<br /> +<span class="GutSmall">AND THE SOURCES OF THE NILE.</span></h2> +<h3>I.</h3> +<p><span class="smcap">Of</span> late years the Lake Regions of +Central Africa have offered a fertile and attractive field to the +explorer. The interest of the public in African discovery, +which had for some time been dormant, was revived in 1849, by the +achievements of Dr. Livingstone, who, starting from the south, +crossed the tropic of Capricorn, and penetrated to the shores of +Lake Ngami. In 1853 to 1856 the same great traveller traced +the course of the river Leeambye or Zambési, and traversed +the entire breadth of the “black continent” from +Angola on the west coast to Zanzibar on the east. In 1865 +he resumed his labours, striking into the very heart of Africa, +with the view of tracing out the Sources of the Nile, and +entering into a fertile country, the resources of which he found +to be capable of immense development. For the first two or +three years of his absence his letters and despatches reached +England with some degree of regularity, but at length a veil of +silence fell across his path, and it began to be feared that <a +name="page366"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 366</span>he, like +other explorers, had fallen a victim to his enthusiasm. An +expedition in search of the missing traveller was equipped by Mr. +Gordon Bennett, proprietor of the <i>New York Herald</i>, in +1871, and placed in charge of Mr. Henry M. Stanley, who had the +good fortune to find Livingstone at Ujiji, near +Unyanyembé, on the 10th of November. He remained +with him until the 14th of March, 1872, when he returned to +England with his diary and other documents. Dr. Livingstone +at this time reported that, in his belief, the Nile springs up +about six hundred miles to the south of the southernmost point of +Lake Victoria Nyanza. In November, 1872, a relief or +auxiliary expedition, under Lieutenant V. Lovett Cameron, started +from Zanzibar; but in October, 1873, while at Unyanyembé, +its leader received the intelligence of Livingstone’s +death, which had taken place at Ujiji, and soon afterwards the +corpse arrived in charge of his faithful followers. Cameron +then took up the work of exploration, and in spite of immense +difficulties, great mental and physical suffering, and obstacles +of every kind, he made his way to Lake Tanganyika, thence to +Nyangwé, and after identifying the Lualaba with the Kongo, +struck to the southward, and passing through regions hitherto +unexplored, struck the west coast at Benguela. As a result +of his observations, Lieutenant Cameron thus sketches the river +system of Africa:—</p> +<p>“The basin of the Nile is probably bounded on the +south-west by the watershed reached by Dr. Schweinfurth; on the +south of the Albert Nyanza, by the high lands between that lake +and the Tanganyika, whence the watershed pursues a tortuous +course to <a name="page367"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +367</span>Unyanyembé (where, I believe, the basins of the +Nile, Kongo, and Lufiji approach each other), and then follows a +wave of high land running east till it turns up northwards along +the landward slopes of the mountains dividing the littoral from +the interior. Passing by Mounts Kilima Njaro and Kenia, it +extends to the mountains of Abyssinia, where the sources of the +Blue Nile were discovered by Bruce [1770], and so on to the +parched plains bordering the Red Sea, where no rains ever +fall. The western boundary of the Nile basin is, of course, +the eastern portion of the desert.</p> +<p>“The basins of the Niger and the Ogowai cannot yet be +defined with any degree of exactitude, and the northern boundary +of the basin of the Kongo has still to be traced.</p> +<p>“The Zambési drains that portion of the continent +south of the Kongo system, and north of the Kalahari desert and +the Limpopo, the northern boundary of the Transvaal Republic; +some of its affluents reaching to within two hundred and fifty +miles of the west coast.</p> +<p>“The mighty Kongo, king of all the African rivers, and +second only to the Amazon (and perhaps to the Yang-tse-Kiang) in +the volume of its waters, occupies a belt of the continent lying +on both sides of the equator, but most probably the larger area +belongs to the southern hemisphere. Many of its affluents +fork into those of the Zambési on a level tableland, where +the watershed is so tortuous that it is hard to trace it, and +where, during the rainy season, floods extend right across +between the head-waters of the two streams.</p> +<p><a name="page368"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +368</span>“The Kelli, discovered by Dr. Schweinfurth, may +possibly prove to be the Lowa, reported to me as a large affluent +of the Lualaba [or Kongo] to the west of Nyangwé; or, if +not an affluent of the Lualaba, it most probably flows either to +the Ogowai or the Tchadda, an affluent of the Niger.”</p> +<p>In 1874 another expedition of discovery was fitted out, at the +joint expense of the proprietors of the London <i>Daily +Telegraph</i> and the <i>New York Herald</i>, and Mr. H. M. +Stanley was appointed to the command. In 1875 he reached +Lake Victoria Nyanza, and through the good offices of Mtesa, King +of Uganda, obtained a flotilla of canoes, with which he +circumnavigated the lake. It proved to be the largest basin +of fresh water in the world, occupying the immense area of sixty +thousand square miles. Mr. Stanley next pushed on to Lake +Albert Nyanza; afterwards circumnavigated the northern half of +Lake Tanganyika; struck westward to the Lualaba at Nyangwé +(1876), and thence descended the Lualaba as far as the Isangila +Falls (June, 1877), whence he crossed the country to Kalinda, on +the west coast.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>But we must now return to 1857, when Captains Burton and +Speke, under the auspices of the Royal Geographical Society of +London, started from Zanzibar to explore the inland lacustrine +region; and discovered, to the south of the equator, Lake +Tanganyika, which they partially explored in a couple of +canoes. Captain Burton being taken ill, Speke pushed on to +the north alone, and discovered the immense basin now known as +the Victoria Nyanza, which he immediately conceived to be the +great <a name="page369"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +369</span>reservoir and head-waters of the Nile. To +ascertain the truth of this supposition, he started again from +the east coast in October, 1860, accompanied by Captain Grant; +crossed the great equatorial table-land of the interior; reached +the Victoria Nyanza; skirted its shores until they discovered its +main outlet, which proved to be the Nile, and then traced the +course of the famous river to Gondokoro, whence, by way of +Assouan, Thebes, and Cairo, they proceeded to Alexandria. +Their well-directed energy had to a great extent solved the +geographical problem of ages, and dispelled the cloud-land in +which the Nile springs had so long been hidden:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“The mystery of old Nile was solved; brave +men<br /> + Had through the lion-haunted inland past,<br /> +Dared all the perils of desert, gorge, and glen,<br /> + Found the far Source at last.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>With heroic patience they had accomplished on foot their +journey of thirteen hundred miles, and shown that the parent +stream of the Nile, even in its earliest course a considerable +river, was fed by the vast reservoir of the “Victorian +Sea.” What remained to be discovered was the feeders +of this vast basin, and which among them was indeed the primary +source of the Nile. Some fresher light was thrown on the +subject by Sir Samuel Baker, <a name="citation369"></a><a +href="#footnote369" class="citation">[369]</a> who, with his +wife, underwent some remarkable experiences in Central Africa, +and earned a right to be included among our Heroes of +Travel. Let us now follow him “through scorching <a +name="page370"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 370</span>deserts and +thirsty sands; through swamp and jungle and interminable morass; +through difficulties, fatigues, and sickness,” until we +stand with him on that high cliff where the great prize burst +upon his view, and he saw before him one of the chief sources of +the Nile in the Luta N’zige, or Albert Lake.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p>Accompanied by his courageous and devoted wife, who insisted +upon sharing his labours and his perils, he sailed up the Nile +from Cairo on the 15th of April, 1861. In twenty-six days +they arrived at Kousko, whence they crossed the Nubian desert, so +as to cut off the western bend of the river, touching it again at +Aboù Hamed. Eight days more and they reached Berber, +where they remained until the 11th of June. A year was +spent in exploring the Abyssinian frontier and the Abyssinian +tributaries of the Nile; and the travellers made their appearance +at Khartûm on the 11th of June, 1862. Khartûm +is a densely populated, unclean, and pestiferous town, in lat. +15° 29′, at the junction point of the White and Blue +Nile; it is the capital of the Soudan, and the seat of a +governor-general. Twenty years ago it was also the centre +of a cruel and desolating slave-trade, but the exertions of Sir +Samuel Baker and Colonel Gordon have done much to lessen its +proportions.</p> +<p>Having engaged a Nile boat, or dahabeeyah, and two larger +noggens or sailing barges, with an escort of forty armed men, and +forty sailors, and accumulated four months’ supplies of +provisions, Sir Samuel set sail from Khartûm on the 18th of +December, 1862. On Christmas Day he was slowly ascending +the river, the banks of which were fringed with immense +forests. <a name="page371"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +371</span>These trees are the soont (<i>Acacia Arabica</i>), +which produce an excellent tannin; the fruit is used for that +purpose, and yields a rich brown dye. The straight smooth +trunks are thirty-five feet high, and about eighteen inches in +diameter. When in full foliage they look well from a +distance, but on a closer approach the forest is seen to be a +desolate swamp, completely overflowed; “a mass of fallen +dead trees protruding from the stagnant waters, a solitary crane +perched here and there upon the rotten boughs; floating +water-plants massed together, and forming green swimming islands, +hitched generally among the sunken trunks and branches; sometimes +slowly descending with the sluggish stream, bearing, +spectre-like, storks thus voyaging on nature’s rafts to +freer lands unknown.” This kind of +scenery—depressing enough, no doubt—continues for a +considerable distance, and so long as it lasts deprives the Nile +of that romance with which it has been invested by the +imagination of poets. There is neither beauty nor interest +in it; and one is surprised to see the low flat banks studded +with populous villages. The flooded plains, however, afford +abundant pasture for the herds of the Shillooks, who in their +choice of a locality are governed by considerations of utility, +and not by the principles of æstheticism.</p> +<p>The junction of the Sobat takes place in lat. 9° +21′. This tributary, at the point of confluence, is a +hundred and twenty yards broad, and flows at the rate of two +miles and a half per hour. Still the Nile valley presents +the same characteristics—broad tracts of marsh and grasses; +dull, monotonous levels, unrelieved by any vividness of +colour. After receiving <a name="page372"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 372</span>the Bahr-el-Ghazal, the White Nile +turns abruptly to the south-east, and winds upward through a flat +country, which, in the rainy season, is resolved into a system of +extensive lakes. Its highway is half choked with floating +vegetation, which nurtures innumerable clouds of +mosquitoes. The people on its banks belong to the Nuehr +tribe; the women pierce the upper lip, and wear an ornament about +four inches long, of beads upon a iron wire, which projects like +the horn of a rhinoceros. The men are both tall and robust, +and armed with lances. They carry pipes that will hold +nearly a quarter of a pound of tobacco; when the supply of +“the weed” fails, they substitute charcoal.</p> +<p>The monotony of the voyage was broken one day by the +appearance of a hippopotamus close to Sir Samuel’s +boat. He was about half grown, and in an instant a score of +men jumped into the water to seize him. The captain caught +him by the hind-leg; and then the crowd rushed in, and, with +ropes thrown from the vessel, slipped nooses over his head. +A grand struggle ensued, but as it seemed likely to result in a +victory for the hippopotamus, Sir Samuel slew him with a rifle +ball. The Arab seamen, who have an extraordinary appetite, +like the old school-men, for the most trivial arguments, +observing that the animal had been “bullied” and +scarred by some other and stronger hippopotamus, plunged into a +fierce contention on the point whether he had been misused by his +father or his mother. As they could not agree, they +referred the question to the arbitration of Sir Samuel, who +pacified both parties by the felicitous suggestion that perhaps +it was his uncle! <a name="page373"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 373</span>They set to work at once with +willing vigour to cut up the ill-treated hippopotamus, which +proved to be as fat as butter, and made most excellent soup.</p> +<p>Continuing their “up-river” course, the voyagers +came to the country of the Kegtah tribe. Such savages as +they saw were equally uncivilized and emaciated. The young +women wore no clothing, except a small piece of dressed hide +across the shoulders; the men, instead of the hide, assumed a +leopard-skin. There was greater appearance of intelligence +in the termites, or white ant, than in these poor half-starved +wretches. The white-ant hills here rise like castle-towers +above the water of the marshes. Their inmates build them +ten feet high in the dry season, and when the rains come, live +high and dry in the upper stories. Humanity, meanwhile, +sickens in the stagnant swamp, and lingers out a miserable +existence. The Bohr and Aliab tribes are a degree higher in +the scale of civilization, but the Shir go beyond them. +They are armed with well-made ebony clubs, two lances, a bow and +arrows; they carry upon their backs a neatly made miniature +stool, along with an immense pipe. The females are not +absolutely naked; they wear small lappets of tanned leather as +broad as the hand; at the back of the belt which supports this +apron is a tail, depending to the lower portions of the +thighs—a tail of finely cut strips of leather, which has +probably given rise to the Arab report that a tribe in Central +Africa had tails like horses. The huts here, and all along +the Nile, are circular, with entrances so low that the inmates +creep in and out on hands and knees. The men decorate their +heads with tufts of cock’s feathers; their favourite +attitude, <a name="page374"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +374</span>when standing, is on one leg, while leaning on a spear, +the uplifted leg reposing on the inside of the other knee.</p> +<p>All the White Nile tribes are quick to collect their harvest +of the lotus, or water-lily, seed, which they grind into flour, +and make into a kind of porridge. The seed-pod of the white +lotus resembles an unblown artichoke, and contains a number of +light red grains about the size of the mustard-seed, but in shape +like those of the poppy, and like them in flavour. The ripe +pods are strung upon reeds about four feet long, formed into +large bundles, and carried from the river to the villages, to be +dried in the sun, and stored away until wanted.</p> +<p>The 1st of February was a “white day” in the +voyagers’ calendar, for on that day the scenery of the +river underwent a welcome improvement. The marshes gave +place to dry ground; the well-wooded banks rose four feet above +the water level; the thickly populated country bloomed like an +orchard. At Gondokoro the picture was fresh and pleasant, +with a distant view of high mountains, and neat villages nestling +under the shade of evergreen trees. Gondokoro is not a +town, but merely a station of the ivory traders, and for ten +months of the year is almost a solitude. Its climate is hot +and unhealthy. Sir Samuel Baker did not meet with a +friendly reception. The men who profited by the slave-trade +regarded him with suspicion; they believed he had come to watch +their doings, and report them to the world. Their +hostility, however, did not disturb his composure, and he amused +himself in riding about the neighbourhood, and studying the place +and its inhabitants. He admired the exquisite <a +name="page375"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 375</span>cleanliness +of the native dwellings, which almost rose to the standard of the +famous village of Brock. Each house was enclosed by a hedge +of the impenetrable euphorbia, and the area within was neatly +plastered with a cement of ashes, cow-dung, and sand. Upon +this well-kept surface stood one or more huts, surrounded by +granaries of neat wicker-work, thatched, resting upon raised +platforms. The huts are built with projecting roofs for the +sake of shade, and the entrance is not more than two feet +high. On the death of a member of the family, he is buried +in the yard, his resting-place being indicated by a pole crowned +by a bunch of cock’s feathers, and ornamented with a few +ox-horns and skulls. Each man carries with him, wherever he +goes, his weapons, pipe, and stool, the whole (except the stool) +being held between his legs when he is standing. The +Gondokoro natives belong to the Bari tribe: the men are well +grown; the women are not prepossessing, with good features, and +no sign of negro blood, except the woolly hair. They tattoo +themselves on stomach, sides, and back, and anoint their persons +with a peculiar red clay, abounding in oxide of iron. Their +principal weapon is the bow and arrow; the arrow they steep in +the juice of euphorbia and other poisonous plants.</p> +<p>At the secret instigation of the slave-traders, Sir Samuel +Baker’s escort broke out into open mutiny, declaring that +they had not meat enough, and demanding leave to carry off the +oxen of the natives. The ringleader, an Arab, was so +violent that Sir Samuel ordered him to receive twenty-five +lashes. The vakeel, Saati, advanced to seize him, when many +of the men rushed to his rescue; and Sir Samuel was <a +name="page376"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 376</span>compelled +to interfere. The Arab then rushed at his employer; but Sir +Samuel knocked him back into the middle of the crowd, caught him +by the throat, and called to the vakeel for a rope to bind him; +but in an instant all the mutineers sprang forward to his +assistance. How the affair would have ended seems doubtful; +but as the fray took place within ten yards of the boat, Lady +Baker, who was ill with fever in the cabin, witnessed the whole +of it, and seeing her husband surrounded, rushed out, forced her +way into the middle of the crowd, and called on some of the least +mutinous to assist. For a moment the crowd wavered, and Sir +Samuel seized the opportunity to shout to the drummer-boy to beat +the drum. Immediately, the drum beat, and in his loudest +tones Sir Samuel ordered the men to “fall in.” +The instinct of discipline prevailed: two-thirds of the men fell +in, and formed in line, while the others retreated with the +ringleader, declaring he was badly hurt. Then Sir Samuel +insisted upon their all forming in line, and upon the ringleader +being brought forward. At this critical moment, Lady Baker, +with true feminine tact, implored her husband to forgive the man +if he kissed his hand and begged for pardon. The men were +completely conquered by this generosity, and called on their +ringleader to apologize, and that all would be right. Thus +the affair ended; but Sir Samuel rightly foresaw in it the +promise of future troubles. According to the custom of the +White Nile, the men had five months’ wages in advance; he +had therefore no control over them; yet he and his wife were +about to penetrate into the midst of a probably hostile native +population, with an escort on whose faithfulness no reliance +could be placed.</p> +<p><a name="page377"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 377</span>On +the 15th of February, Captains Speke and Grant arrived at +Gondokoro, from the Victoria Nyanza, and the meeting between them +and Sir Samuel was necessarily very cordial. The +information they communicated had a material effect upon his +plans. He found that they had been unable to complete the +actual exploration of the Nile—that a most important +portion remained to be determined. It appears that in lat. +2° 17′ N. they had crossed the Nile, after tracking it +from the Victoria Lake; that the river then turned suddenly to +the west, and that they did not touch it again until they arrived +in lat. 3° 32′ N., when it was then flowing from the +west-south-west. The natives, and Kamrasi, King of Unyoro, +had assured them that the Nile from the Victoria Nyanza, which +they had crossed in lat. 2° 17′ N., flowed westward for +several days’ journey, and at length fell into a large lake +called the Luta N’zige (“Dead Locust”); that +this lake came from the south, and that the Nile, on entering its +northern extremity, almost immediately made its exit, and as a +navigable river continued its course to the north through the +Koshi and Madi countries. Circumstances prevented Speke and +Grant from pushing their explorations as far as the Luta +N’zige; and the question that remained to be answered was, +What was the exact position of this lake in the basin of the +Nile? what was its relation to the great river?</p> +<p>This question Sir Samuel Baker resolved upon settling. +Speke and Grant sailed from Gondokoro, homeward bound, on the +26th, and he immediately began to prepare for his journey to the +Luta N’zige. His preparations were delayed, however, +by the <a name="page378"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +378</span>mutinous conduct of his escort, and the obstacles +thrown in his path by the nefarious ivory-traders and +slave-hunters; and it was the 26th of March before he was able to +effect a start. Then, with his escort reduced in number to +fifteen men, with two faithful servants, Richard and the boy +Saat, and a heavily loaded caravan of camels and donkeys, with +Lady Baker mounted on a good strong Abyssinian hunter, +Tétel (“Hartebeest”), and Sir Samuel himself +on his horse Filfil (“Pepper”), and the British flag +waving proudly above the <i>cortége</i>, they left +Gondokoro, and began their march into Central Africa.</p> +<p>The country was park-like, but dried up by the hot +weather. The soil was sandy, but firm, and numerous +evergreen trees enlivened the landscape, which was further +animated by clusters of villages, each surrounded by a fence of +euphorbia. It varied greatly in character as the travellers +advanced; sometimes presenting a magnificent forest, sometimes a +dense jungle, sometimes a labyrinth of ravines, through which the +caravan made its way with difficulty. The view of the +valley of Tollogo was exceedingly picturesque. An abrupt +granite wall rose on the east side to a height of about a +thousand feet; from this perpendicular cliff huge blocks had +fallen, strewing the bottom with a confused mass of fragments, +among which the natives had built their village. A slow +stream wound its way in the hollow, which was nowhere more than +half a mile wide, in the shade of numerous fig trees. At +Ellyria Sir Samuel narrowly escaped a hostile encounter with an +ivory-trader’s party, but through the firmness and <a +name="page379"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 379</span>skilfulness +of himself and his wife, not only was it avoided, but friendly +relations were established with its leader. No supplies, +however, could be procured from the natives, whose character Sir +Samuel paints in the darkest colours. Of the village of +Wakkala he gives a pleasant description. The soil was very +rich, and the ground being protected from the burning sun by the +large trees, there was a wealth of luscious grass; while the good +pasturage, the extensive forest, and a plentiful supply of water +insured a not less plentiful supply of wild +animals—antelopes in numerous varieties, rhinoceros, +buffaloes, elephants, and giraffes. The next town was +Latomé, where the traveller’s presence of mind and +courage were tested by another mutiny; but again he succeeded in +defeating the intentions of the insurgents, and reducing them to +obedience.</p> +<p>Along the foot of the Lafut mountains, which attain a general +elevation of six to seven thousand feet, the travellers pursued +their way. Desertions reduced their escort by five men, but +they abated not their high hopes or spirit of daring +enterprise. They duly arrived at Tarangdlé, famous +for its fine trees—the chief settlement of the Latookas, a +fine, frank, and warlike race, who resemble the Irish in their +readiness to join either in a feast or a fray. The town +contains three thousand houses, each of which, as well as the +town itself, is protected by an iron-wood palisade. The +cattle are kept in large kraals, and at various points high +platforms are erected, where sentinels keep watch and ward both +day and night. The cattle are the wealth of the country, +and so rich are the Latookas in them, that <a +name="page380"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 380</span>ten or +twelve thousand head are housed in every large town. The +natives are constantly on guard to prevent the depredations of +neighbouring tribes.</p> +<p>“The houses of the Latookas,” says Sir Samuel, +“are generally bell-shaped, while others are precisely like +huge candle-extinguishers, about twenty-five feet high. The +roofs are neatly thatched, at an angle of about 75°, resting +upon a circular wall about four feet high; thus the roof forms a +cap descending to within two feet and a half of the ground. +The doorway is only two feet and two inches high, thus an +entrance must be effected upon all-fours. The interior is +remarkably clean, but dark, as the architects have no idea of +windows. It is a curious fact that the circular form of hut +is the only style of architecture adopted among all the tribes of +Central Africa, and also among the Arabs of Upper Egypt; and +that, although these differ more or less in the form of the roof, +no tribe has ever yet sufficiently advanced to construct a +window. The town of Tarangdlé is arranged with +several entrances, in the shape of low archways through the +palisades; these are closed at night by large branches of the +hooked thorn of the kittur bush (a species of mimosa). The +main street is broad, but all others are studiously arranged to +admit of only one cow, in single file, between high stockades; +thus, in the event of an attack, these narrow passages could be +easily defended, and it would be impossible to drive off their +vast herds of cattle unless by the main street. The large +cattle kraals are accordingly arranged in various quarters in +connection with the great road, and the entrance of each kraal is +a small archway in the <a name="page381"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 381</span>strong iron-wood fence, sufficiently +wide to admit one ox at a time. Suspended from the arch is +a bell, formed of the shell of the Oolape palm-nut, against which +every animal must strike either its horns or back, on +entrance. Every tinkle of the bell announces the passage of +an ox into the kraal, and they are thus counted every evening +when brought home from pasture.”</p> +<p>While at Latooka Sir Samuel was enabled to gratify his passion +for the chase, and his skill and prowess were rewarded by the +capture of an elephant. There is a great difference, or +rather, there are three great differences between the African and +the Asiatic elephant: the back of the former is concave, that of +the latter convex; the former has an enormous ear, the latter a +comparatively small one; the head of the former has a convex +front, while that of the latter exposes a flat surface a little +above the trunk. The African animal is much larger than the +Asiatic; and while the latter seeks the forest depths during the +day, and does not wander forth upon the plains till towards +evening, the former remains all day in the vast open prairies, +where the thick grass springs to a height of twelve feet. +The African elephant feeds chiefly on the foliage of trees; the +Asiatic is an extensive grass feeder.</p> +<p>The natives hunt the elephant for the sake of the flesh and +the tusks. Sometimes he is caught in pitfalls; at other +times, the grass of the prairies is fired, and the elephants +gradually driven back into a confined area, where they are +surrounded and speared to death. Or, should a number of +elephants be in the neighbourhood of a village, about a hundred +<a name="page382"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 382</span>men, +armed with heavy-bladed lances, post themselves in as many trees, +while a multitude of natives gradually drive the animals towards +this ambush, when such as pass near enough are speared between +the shoulders. The Bagara Arabs are famous elephant +hunters. Armed with bamboo lances, tipped with a sharp iron +head, two of them, mounted on good horses, sally forth to secure +a prize. On coming in sight of a herd, they single out the +finest tusker and separate him from the others. One man +then leads the charge, and the animal, hotly pursued, turns +against the horse, which the rider so manages as to draw the +elephant further and further after him, while carefully keeping a +safe distance ahead. The other man, meanwhile, is at the +elephant’s heels, and suddenly dismounting, while at full +gallop, plunges his spear into its body about two feet below the +junction of the tail, driving it with all his strength into the +abdomen, and then withdrawing it. If successful in his +thrust, he remounts his horse and escapes, or takes to flight on +foot, pursued by the elephant, until the attention of the latter +is drawn to his first assailant, who in his turn rides up, and +inflicts a wound. Sometimes the first wound proves fatal; +sometimes the process is repeated twice or thrice before the +animal succumbs; and sometimes the elephant overtakes his enemy, +in which case the latter must expect no mercy.</p> +<p>On the 2nd of May, 1863, leaving five men in charge of his +camp and baggage, Sir Samuel started for Obbo, crossing the +Kanisti river, and travelling through a bold and romantic +highland country. He found the vegetation of Obbo rich and +various; the soil <a name="page383"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +383</span>produced nine kinds of yams, and many capital kinds of +fruit. Tobacco flourishes, and ground nuts are +plentiful. As for the people, they attire themselves in the +skin of an antelope or goat, wearing it mantle-wise across their +shoulders; but when on the warpath, they paint their body with +red and yellow stripes. Sir Samuel was received with all +the honours by Katchiba, the chief of Obbo, and entertained with +a grand dance, in which more vigour was displayed than +elegance. About a hundred men formed a ring; each holding +in his hand a small cup-shaped drum, formed of hollowed wood, +over the perforated end of which was lightly stretched the skin +of an elephant’s ear. In the centre was placed the +chief dancer, wearing, suspended from his shoulders, an immense +drum, also covered with elephant’s ear. The dance +commenced with a wild but agreeable chorus, the time being kept +by the big drum, and the small <i>tympana</i> striking in at +certain periods, with so much precision as to give the effect of +a single instrument. The figures varied continually, and +the whole terminated with a “grand galop” in double +circles, at a tremendous pace, the inner ring revolving in a +contrary direction to the outer.</p> +<p>Sir Samuel returned to Latooka, and collecting his baggage and +escort, started again for Obbo on the 13th of June. Here he +and his wife remained for several months, waiting for a +favourable opportunity to resume their southward march. +Their quinine was exhausted, and consequently they suffered much +from fever. Sir Samuel, in lieu of horses, purchased and +trained for their contemplated journey three robust oxen, named +respectively, “Beef,” “Steaks,” and <a +name="page384"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +384</span>“Suet.” He also obtained a supply of +porters to carry his luggage, and arranged with Ibrahim, the +friendly trader, that he should accompany him to Unyoro with a +guard of one hundred men. It was the 5th of January, 1864, +before the expedition started. On the very first day, +however, one of the oxen bolted; and Sir Samuel was compelled to +purchase another of one of the Turks at the price of a +double-barrelled gun. Three days’ march through a +beautiful country brought them to the Asua river, in lat. 3° +12′ N. Its bed was almost dry. On the 13th they +arrived at Shooa. This is characterized as a lovely +place. A noble mountain of granite ascended in a sheer +precipice for about eight hundred feet from its base; perfectly +abrupt on the eastern side, the other parts were of gradual +inclination, covered with fine forest trees, and picturesquely +studded with villages. The surrounding country, with its +trees and rivulets and greensward, might have been taken for an +English park, but for the granite rocks that rose at intervals +like the gray ruins of ancient castles.</p> +<p>Shooa is a land of milk and honey. The travellers found +fowls, butter, and goats abundant and ridiculously cheap; and as +beads were highly valued, they effected some good bargains. +The women flocked to see the white lady, bringing her gifts of +milk and flowers, and receiving beads and bracelets in +return. They were gentle in manner, and evidently anxious +to establish friendly relations. Sir Samuel was struck by +the superior cultivation of the country. Large quantities +of sesamum were grown and carefully harvested, the crop being +collected in oblong frames about twenty feet long and twelve feet +high. <a name="page385"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +385</span>These were inclined at an angle of about 60°; the +pods of the sesamum plants hanging on one facet, so that the +frames resembled enormous brushes. When fully dried, the +crop was removed to the granaries, of which there were two kinds: +the wicker-work plastered over with cow-dung, supported on four +posts, with a thatched roof; and a simpler contrivance, which may +be thus described:—A stout pole, twenty feet long, was +fixed upright in the earth, and, at about four foot from the +ground, a bundle of strong and long reeds was tied tightly round +it. Round these reeds, at intervals, were fastened hoop of +wicker-work, until the structure assumed the shape of an inverted +umbrella half expanded. When this is filled with grain, +fresh reeds are added, until the work has extended to within a +few feet of the top of the pole. The whole is then crowned +with a covering of reeds, securely strapped, and resembles +nothing in the world so much as one of those cigars which +slightly bulge in the middle.</p> +<p>At Shooa all Sir Samuel’s Obbo porters absconded, being +afraid to enter Kamrasi’s country, and he found so much +difficulty in supplying their places, that he resolved on leaving +behind him every article that was not absolutely +indispensable. How different an appearance his expedition +presented to that which it had worn on leaving +Khartûm! It was shorn of all its “pride and +circumstance;” but its leader remained as resolute and as +hopeful as ever, and started from Shooa on the 18th of January, +determined to press forward to the Luta N’zige. After +passing Fatiko, a village perched like an eagle’s eyrie on +a rocky table-land, he entered upon a sea of <a +name="page386"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 386</span>prairies, +an immense undulating expanse of verdure, dotted with a few +palms. As his guide lost the road, Sir Samuel proposed to +clear the country to the south by firing the prairies, and a +strangely picturesque spectacle was the result. In a few +minutes the flames roared before them, and waves upon waves of +fire, and clouds upon clouds of smoke, rolled away to the far +horizon. Flocks of buzzards and swarms of beautiful +fly-catchers thronged to the spot, to prey upon the innumerable +insects that endeavoured to escape from the approaching +conflagration, which continued to extend until arrested by a +reedy swamp.</p> +<p>On the 22nd, the expedition reached the Victoria White Nile, +or, as it is sometimes called, the Somerset river, and proceeded +through the magnificent forest that crowned its bank to the +Karuma Falls. The river here was about a hundred and fifty +yards wide, and flowed between lofty cliffs, which were green +with vines, bananas, and palms. The falls, however, are +very insignificant, not exceeding five feet in height. Just +above them is a ferry, and Sir Samuel and Lady Baker crossing by +it, found themselves in Unyoro, King Kamrasi’s country, and +in his town or village of Atado. Speke and Grant had left +behind them pleasant memories, so that Baker, as their friend and +countryman, received a hearty welcome. A large hut was +placed at the disposal of his wife and himself, and in exchange +for fresh beef—Sir Samuel ordering an ox to be killed for +the purpose—the natives furnished liberal quantities of +flour, beans, and sweet potatoes. A brisk market was +quickly set going, and whole rows of girls and women arrived, +bringing baskets filled with the desired provisions. The <a +name="page387"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 387</span>women, we +are told, were neatly dressed in short double-skirted petticoats: +many had the bosom bare: others wore a piece of bark-cloth, +plaid-wise, across chest and shoulders. Bark-cloth, which +is exclusively used throughout Equatorial Africa, is the produce +of a kind of fig tree. The bark is stripped off in large +pieces, soaked in water, and beaten with a mallet. In +appearance it much resembles corduroy, in colour tanned leather; +the finer qualities are peculiarly soft to the touch, like woven +cotton.</p> +<p>The travellers were struck by the difference between the +Unyoro people and the tribes they had previously seen. On +the north side of the Nile the natives were either wholly naked, +or wore only a piece of skin across their shoulders. The +river seemed to mark the limit or <i>ne plus ultra</i> of +savagedom, for the inhabitants of Unyoro shrank like Europeans +from the indecency and shame of nakedness. Their higher +civilization was shown also by their manufactures: their smiths +were very skilful, and used iron hammers instead of stone; they +converted into fine wire the thick brass and copper wire which +they received from Zanzibar; and their pottery showed a certain +degree of taste in conception.</p> +<p>“The natives,” writes Sir Samuel, “are +particularly neat in all they do; they never bring anything to +sell unless carefully packed in the neatest parcels, generally +formed of the bark of the plantain, and sometimes of the inner +portions of reeds stripped into snow-white stalks, which are +bound round the parcels with the utmost care. Should the +plantain cider, ‘marossa,’ be brought in a jar, the +mouth is neatly covered with a finger-like mat of these clean <a +name="page388"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 388</span>white +rushes split into shreds. Not even tobacco is brought for +sale unless most carefully packed. During a journey, a +pretty, bottle-shaped, long-necked gourd is carried, with a store +of plantain cider; the mouth of the bottle is stopped with a +bundle of the white rush shreds, through which a reed is inserted +that reaches to the bottom; thus the drink can be sucked up +during the march without the necessity of halting; nor is it +possible to spill it by the movement of walking.</p> +<p>“The natives,” he adds, “prepare the skins +of goats very beautifully, making them as soft as chamois +leather; these they cut into squares, and sew them together as +neatly as would be effected by a European tailor, converting them +into mantles, which are prized far more highly than bark-cloth, +on account of their durability. They manufacture their own +needles, not by boring the eye, but by sharpening the end into a +fine point, and turning it over, the extremity being hammered +into a small cut in the body of the needle to prevent it from +catching.”</p> +<p>The arrival of Sir Samuel Baker being made known to Kamrasi, +he requested him to pay a visit to his capital, and sent a legion +of porters to carry his baggage. Lady Baker suffered much +from illness on the journey, which she performed in a litter; and +Sir Samuel was also attacked by a debilitating fever. His +first interview with “the king” took place on the +10th of February. He describes him as a fine-looking man, +whose extremely prominent eyes gave a peculiar expression to his +countenance; about six feet high; and dressed in a long robe of +bark-cloth, draped in graceful folds. The nails of his +hands and <a name="page389"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +389</span>feet were carefully tended, and his complexion was +about as dark a brown as that of an Abyssinian. He sat upon +a copper stool, with a leopard-skin carpet spread around him, and +was attended by about ten of his principal chiefs. Of his +character as a man Sir Samuel Baker speaks in the most +unflattering terms; he was grasping, mean, mendacious, and a +coward. After some delay, and by dint of repeated bribes, +Sir Samuel obtained from him a supply of natives to carry the +baggage to the lake, where canoes were to be provided for the +voyage to Magango, a village situated at the junction of the +Somerset river. He went to take leave of the royal savage, +and was astonished by the insolent demand that Lady Baker should +be left with him! Sir Samuel drew his revolver; Lady Baker +broke out into invectives in Arabic, which the woman, Bachuta, +translated as nearly as she could, and with indignant emphasis, +into the language of Unyoro; in short, “a scene” +ensued! Kamrasi was completely cowed, and faltered out, +“Don’t be angry! I had no intention of +offending you by asking for your wife; I will give you a wife, if +you want one, and I thought you might have no objection to give +me yours; it is my custom to give my visitors pretty wives, and I +thought you might exchange. Don’t make it fuss about +it: if you don’t like it, there’s an end of it; I +will never mention it again.” Sir Samuel received the +apology very sternly, and insisted upon starting. Kamrasi +did not feel in a position to interpose any further delay, and +the march to the lake began.</p> +<p>On the road a very painful incident occurred. The +expedition had reached Uafour river, which ran <a +name="page390"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 390</span>through the +centre of a marsh, and, although deep, was so thickly covered +with matted and tangled water grass and other aquatic plants, +that a natural floating bridge, some two feet in thickness, was +available for crossing. The men passed it quickly, sinking +merely to the ankles, though beneath the tough vegetation was +deep water. It was equally impossible to ride or be carried +over this fickle surface; Sir Samuel therefore led the way, and +begged his wife to follow on foot as quickly as possible, keeping +exactly in his track. The river was about eighty yards +wide, and Sir Samuel had scarcely accomplished a fourth of the +distance, when, looking back, he was horrified to see her +standing in one spot, and sinking gradually through the weeds, +while her face was distorted and perfectly purple. She +fell, as if stricken dead. Her husband was immediately by +her side, and, with the help of some of his men, dragged her +through the yielding vegetation, across to the other side. +There she was tenderly laid beneath a tree, and her husband +bathed her head and face with water, thinking she had +fainted. But he soon perceived that she was suffering from +a sunstroke; and, removing her to a miserable hut close at hand, +he watched anxiously for some sign of returning +consciousness. We shall quote his own words in all their +pathetic simplicity:</p> +<p>“There was nothing to eat in this spot. My wife +had never stirred since she fell by the <i>coup de soleil</i>, +and merely respired about five times a minute. It was +impossible to remain; the people would have starved. She +was laid gently upon her litter, and we started forward on our +funeral course. I was ill and broken-hearted, and I +followed by her side through <a name="page391"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 391</span>the long day’s march over wild +park lands and streams, with thick forest and deep marshy +bottoms; over undulating hills, and through valleys of tall +papyrus rushes, which, as we brushed through them on our +melancholy way, waved over the litter like the black plumes of a +hearse. We halted at a village, and again the night was +passed in watching. I was wet, and coated with mud from the +swampy marsh, and shivered with ague; but the cold within was +greater than all. No change had taken place; she had never +moved. I had plenty of fat, and I made four balls of about +half a pound, each of which would burn for three hours. A +piece of a broken water-jar formed a lamp, several pieces of rag +serving for wicks. So in solitude the still calm night +passed away as I sat by her side and watched. In the drawn +and distorted features that lay before me I could hardly trace +the same form that for years had been my comfort through all the +difficulties and dangers of my path. Was she to die? +Was so terrible a sacrifice to be the result of my selfish +exile?</p> +<p>“Again the night passed away. Once more the +march. Though weak and ill, and for two nights without a +moment’s sleep, I felt no fatigue, but mechanically +followed by the side of the litter as though in a dream. +The same wild country diversified with marsh and forest. +Again we halted. The night came, and I sat by her side in a +miserable hut, with the feeble lamp flickering while she lay, as +in death. She had never moved a muscle since she +fell. My people slept. I was alone, and no sound +broke the stillness of the night. The ears ached at the +utter silence, till the sudden wild cry <a +name="page392"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 392</span>of a +hyæna made me shudder as the horrible thought rushed +through my brain, that, should she be buried in this lonely spot, +the hyæna would . . . disturb her rest.</p> +<p>“The morning was not far distant; it was past four +o’clock. I had passed the night in replacing wet +cloths upon her head, and moistening her lips, as she lay +apparently lifeless on her litter. I could do nothing more; +in solitude and abject misery in that dark hour, in a country of +savage heathens, thousands of miles away from a Christian land, I +beseeched an aid above all human, trusting alone to Him.</p> +<p>“The morning broke; my lamp had just burnt out, and, +cramped with the night’s watching, I rose from my seat, and +seeing that she lay in the same unaltered state, I went to the +door of the hut to breathe one gasp of the fresh morning +air. I was watching the first red streak that heralded the +rising sun, when I was startled by the words, ‘Thank +God,’ faintly uttered behind me. Suddenly she had +awoke from her torpor, and with a heart overflowing I went to her +bedside. Her eyes were full of madness! She spoke, +but the brain was gone!”</p> +<h3>II.</h3> +<p>Happily, after suffering for some days from brain fever, Lady +Baker recovered consciousness, and thenceforward her progress, +though slow, was sure. After a brief rest, the march to the +lake was resumed by the undaunted travellers; for the devoted +wife <a name="page393"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +393</span>would not allow any consideration of her comfort or +safety to come between her husband and the accomplishment of the +work he had undertaken. At a village called Parkani, the +guides informed them that they were only a day’s journey +from the lake. In the west rose a lofty range of mountains, +and Sir Samuel Baker had conjectured that the N’zige lay on +the other side of it, but he was told that it actually formed its +western or further boundary. Only a day’s +journey! That night Sir Samuel could hardly sleep; his +brain was fired with the thought that he was within so short a +distance of the Source of the Nile—that in a few hours he +might drink of the waters of its mysterious fountain. He +was up before sunrise on the 14th of March, and crossing a deep +cool valley between the hills, ascended the slope, gained the +summit, and there, before him, flashing in the light of morning +like a sea of quick-silver or a huge mirror of polished steel, +lay the long-sought lake! The height on which he stood was +about fifteen hundred feet above its level, so that he could +survey the entire expanse of those welcome waters which had +created fertility in the heart of the desert, and made the fame +and wealth and glory of Egypt. He resolved that thenceforth +they should bear a great name, and as the eastern reservoir of +the Nile had been named after the Queen of England, he determined +that the western should commemorate her lost and lamented +consort, Prince Albert. It is therefore now known as the +Albert Lake.</p> +<p>With some difficulty, but with a grateful heart, he and his +wife descended the steep to the shore of <a +name="page394"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 394</span>the silent, +shining lake, and took up their quarters in a fishing village +called Vacovia. It was a wretched place, and the soil was +strongly impregnated with salt; but discomforts were forgotten in +the joy of a great discovery. Sir Samuel proceeded to +collect all the information he could relative to its +position. The chief of the village told him that its +breadth was immense, but that large canoes had been known to +cross from the other side after four days and nights of hard +rowing. That other side, the west, was included in the +great kingdom of Malegga, governed by King Kajoro, who traded +with Kamrasi from a point opposite to Magango, where the lake +contracted to the width of one day’s voyage. South of +Malegga was a country named Tori, and the lake extended into the +kingdom of Karagwé, with whose sovereign, Rumanika, Speke +and Grant had maintained a friendly intercourse. +Karagwé partly bounded the lake on the eastern side, and +next to it, towards the north, came Utumbi; then, in succession, +came Uganda, Unyoro, Chopé.</p> +<p>The Albert Nyanza formed a vast basin of water, lying far +below the general level of the country, and receiving all its +drainage. It was surrounded by precipitous cliffs, which +left but a narrow strip of sand between them and the swelling +waves, and bounded on the west and south-west by huge +mountain-ranges, from five to seven thousand feet in +altitude. Sir Samuel Baker, after a careful survey, +concluded that it was the one great reservoir which received +everything, from the passing shower to the roaring mountain +torrent that drained from Central Africa towards the north. +Speke’s Victoria Nyanza was a reservoir <a +name="page395"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 395</span>situated at +a considerable elevation, receiving the waters from the west of +the Kitangulé river, its principal feeder; but as the +Albert Lake extended much farther north than the Victoria, it +took up the river from the latter, and monopolized the entire +head-waters of the Nile. In Sir Samuel’s opinion the +Albert was the great reservoir, while the Nile was the eastern +source; the parent streams that created these lakes were from the +same origin, and the Kitangulé poured its waters into the +Victoria, to be eventually received by the Albert. The +discoveries of Mr. Stanley, however, impose on geographers the +necessity of considerably modifying Sir Samuel Baker’s +hypothesis, without detracting from the importance of his +discovery. The Albert Lake really holds an inferior +position to the Victoria, which unquestionably receives the +parent waters of the Nile; but it is not the less one of its +great reservoirs.</p> +<p>Having obtained a canoe at Vacovia, Sir Samuel explored the +north-eastern coast of the Albert, and after a voyage of thirteen +days arrived at Magango, where the Nile, or Somerset river, after +a winding course from the Victoria Nyanza, flows calmly into its +basin, to quit it again a few miles further north, and make its +way towards Egypt and the Mediterranean. At Magango the +lake is about seventeen miles wide, but to the north it ends in a +long strip or neck which a growth of tall green rushes almost +conceals. After leaving the lake, the Nile smoothly +descends its green valley, and is navigable for boats until it +reaches Agunddo, where it dashes headlong over a precipice of +thirty or forty feet.</p> +<p>Having completed his survey of the Albert, as far <a +name="page396"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 396</span>as his +means admitted, Sir Samuel determined, instead of retracing his +steps to Kamrasi’s residence at ’Mroolli, to trace +the course of the Somerset or Nile river up to Karuma Falls, to +which point Speke and Grant had followed it downwards. The +canoes having been got ready, Baker and his wife began their +river voyage. About two miles from Magango the width +contracted from 500 to 250 yards. As they proceeded, the +river gradually narrowed to about 180 yards, and when the men +ceased paddling, they could distinctly hear the roar of +water. Arriving at a point where the river made a slight +turn, they saw the sandbanks covered with crocodiles; like logs +of timber, they lay together. The cliffs on either side +were steep and rugged, and the whole picture was rich in various +colouring. Foliage of the intensest green clothed each +rocky projection, and through a narrow cleft or gap in the +precipices the river plunged down before them in one vast leap of +about 120 feet. The fall of waters was white as snow, and +contrasted magnificently with the dark walls that held it in, +while the graceful palms of the tropics and wild plantains +increased the beauty of the view. This noble cataract, the +grandest on the Nile, Sir Samuel named the Murchison Falls, in +honour of the famous geologist and geographer.</p> +<p>It was impossible, of course, to pass the cataract, and the +voyagers made haste to land and collect their oxen and attendants +in order to resume their journey. The route they took was +parallel to the river, which continued to flow in a deep and +picturesque ravine. From an island called Palooan, a +succession of islets broke its course until near the <a +name="page397"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 397</span>Karuma +Falls. These islets belonged to two chiefs, Rionza and +Fowooka, who were bitter enemies of the King of Unyoro, +Kamrasi. On arriving at this point, Sir Samuel found that +they were at that very time engaged in hostilities, and that it +would be impossible for him to continue along the bank of the +river. Obstacles of every kind were thrown by the natives +in the onward path of the travellers, but in spite of ill health, +weakness, and weariness, they slowly pushed forward. Not +the least of their troubles was the scarcity of suitable +provisions, and they grew so feeble that at last even their brave +hearts gave way, and they began to despair of reaching +Gondokoro—to resign themselves to the thought of being +buried in that inhospitable land. “I wrote +instructions in my journal,” says Sir Samuel, “in +case of death, and told my headman to be sure to deliver my maps, +observations, and papers to the English consul at Khartûm; +this was my only care, as I feared that all my labour might be +lost should I die. I had no fear for my wife, as she was +quite as bad as I, and if one should die, the other would +certainly follow;—in fact, this had been agreed upon lest +she should fall into the hands of Kamrasi at my death. We +had struggled to win, and I thanked God that we had won; if death +were to be the price, at all events we were at the goal, and we +both looked upon death rather as a pleasure, as affording rest; +there would be no more suffering; no fever, no long journey +before us, that in our weak state was an infliction; the only +wish was to lay down the burthen.”</p> +<p>From this wretched position Sir Samuel delivered <a +name="page398"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 398</span>himself, by +undertaking to assist Kamrasi in his war against Fowooka. +Whether this was a legitimate proceeding on the part of a +scientific explorer, who had no interest in the quarrel of either +party, may well be doubted, but the alliance led to his obtaining +an immediate supply of provisions. Natives were sent to +assist him and his wife in their journey to Kamrasi’s camp +at Kisoona. But what was their surprise to find that the +Kamrasi whom they had interviewed at ’Mrooli was not, after +all, the real Kamrasi, the King of Unyoro, but his brother, +M’Gami, whom Kamrasi had ordered to personate him, in an +access of alarm as to the traveller’s possible +designs. Sir Samuel was indignant at the deception, and it +was with some difficulty that M’Gami could prevail upon him +to forgive it. At last he consented to visit the king, and +something like an amicable understanding was established between +them. He was well supplied with provisions of all kinds, +and both his wife and himself slowly recovered their health and +spirits. By a dexterous use of the British flag he repelled +an attempted invasion of Fowooka’s warriors; and he +rendered various services to Kamrasi, which met, we need hardly +say, with no adequate reward. It was the middle of November +before, in company with a caravan of ivory-traders under his old +friend Ibrahim, Sir Samuel was able to resume his return journey +to Gondokoro. The caravan consisted of about seven hundred +porters and eighty armed men, with women and children; in all, +about one thousand people. To provision such a body was +necessarily difficult, and there was no meat, although flour was +<a name="page399"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +399</span>abundant. Sir Samuel’s skill as a hunter +was put into requisition to supply a little variety to the bill +of fare; and his bringing down a fine hartebeest was an event +which gave very general satisfaction.</p> +<p>Five days after leaving the Victoria Nile, the caravan arrived +at Shooa, where Sir Samuel and his wife received a hearty +welcome. Some months were spent in this pleasant locality, +the Turks profiting by the opportunity to make razzias upon the +neighbouring tribes, so that, for many miles around, the +blackened ruins of villages and the desolated fields bore witness +to their reckless cruelty; cattle were carried off in thousands, +and a fair and fertile region was converted into a dreary +wilderness. The captives made were detained to be sold as +slaves. On one occasion, among the victims brought in to +the Turkish camp was a pretty young girl of about fifteen. +She had been sold by auction, as usual, the day after the return +from the razzia, and had fallen to the lot of one of the +men. A few days later, there appeared in the camp a native +from the plundered village, intent upon ransoming the girl with a +quantity of ivory. He had scarcely entered the gateway, +when the girl, who was sitting at the door of her owner’s +hut, descried him, and springing to her feet, ran with all the +speed her chained ankles permitted, and flung herself into his +arms, with the cry of “My father!” Yes; it was +her father who, to rescue his child from degradation, had nobly +risked his life in his brutal enemy’s camp.</p> +<p>The Turks who witnessed this particular incident, far from +being touched by any emotion of pity, rushed on to the +unfortunate native, tore him from <a name="page400"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 400</span>his daughter, and bound him tightly +with cords. At this time Sir Samuel was in his tent, +assisting some of his men to clean his rifles. Suddenly, at +a distance of less than a hundred paces, he heard three shots +fired. The men exclaimed, “They have shot the abid +(native)!” “What native?” inquired Sir +Samuel; and his men replied by narrating the story we have just +recorded. Sir Samuel at first refused to believe it, but it +proved to be true in every detail, even in the last; for, bound +to a tree, lay the wretched father, shot dead with three +balls.</p> +<p>In the month of February the caravan started for +Gondokoro. The route lay at first through a fertile and +pleasant country, crossing twice the Un-y-Ami river, and touching +at its point of junction with the Nile, in lat. 3° 32′ +N. On the north bank of the Un-y-Ami, about three miles +from its mouth, Sir Samuel saw the tamarind tree—the +“Shadder-el-Sowar” (or “Traveller’s +Tree”), as the trading parties called it—which +indicated the limit of Signor Miani’s explorations from +Gondokoro, and the furthest point reached by any traveller from +the north prior to Sir Samuel Baker’s enterprise. The +journey was continued through a fine park-like extent of verdant +grass, covered with stately tamarind trees, which sheltered among +their branches great numbers of the brilliant yellow-breasted +pigeon. Ascending a rocky eminence by a laborious pass, Sir +Samuel, from the summit, which was eight hundred feet high, saw +before him the old historic river. “Hurrah for the +old Nile!” he said, and contemplated with eager gaze the +noble scene before him. Flowing from the westward, with +many a curve and bend, was the broad <a name="page401"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 401</span>sheet of unbroken water, four +hundred yards wide, exclusive of the thick belt of reeds on +either margin. Its source could be clearly traced for some +scores of miles, and the range of mountains on the west bank was +distantly visible that the travellers had previously sighted, +when on the route from Karuma to Shooa, at a distance of sixty +miles. This chain begins at Magango, and forms the Koshi +frontier of the Nile. The country opposite to Sir +Samuel’s position was Koshi, which extends along the +<i>west</i> bank of the river to the Albert Lake. The +country which he was traversing extends, under the name of Madi, +along the <i>east</i> bank to the confluence of the Somerset +Nile, opposite Magango.</p> +<p>The Nile here enters a rocky valley between Gebel Kookoo and +the western mountains, and foams and frets around and against +rock and island, until, suddenly contracting, it breaks into a +roaring torrent, and dashes furiously onward in the shadow of +perpendicular cliffs. Waterfall succeeds to waterfall, and +it is difficult to identify the swollen, thunderous, angry river +with the calm clear stream that brightens the fertile pastures of +Shooa. In this part of its course it receives the +Asua. Through dense thickets of bamboos, and deep ravines +which, in the season of rains, pour their turbid tribute into the +great river, the caravan made its way; but in passing through a +gorge between two rocky hills it was attacked by a body of the +Bari natives, who were lying in ambush. Their bows and +arrows, however, proved ineffectual against the musketry of the +Turks, and they retired discomfited. This was the last +important incident of the journey to Gondokoro, where, after an +absence of <a name="page402"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +402</span>upwards of two years, Sir Samuel and Lady Baker arrived +in safety.</p> +<p>But what was their disappointment to find there neither +letters nor supplies! Their friends and agents had long +since given them up as dead; never believing that travellers +could penetrate into that far and savage south, and return +alive. There was no news from home; no money; no conveyance +provided to take them back to Khartûm. With +characteristic energy Sir Samuel confronted his disappointment, +and instead of wringing his hands and waiting for the help that +would not come, he set actively to work, engaged a dahabeeyah for +the sum of four thousand piastres (£40), removed his +baggage on board, collected provisions, took friendly leave of +Ibrahim and the traders, and, with the flag of Old England flying +at his masthead, set sail from Gondokoro. There is very +little to be said about the voyage to Khartûm. Sir +Samuel shot some antelopes, and the progress of the dahabeeyah +beyond the junction of the Bahr-el-Ghazal was considerably +impeded by that natural dam of floating vegetation, intermingled +with reeds, sunburnt wood, and mud that here forms so signal an +obstruction to the navigation of the Upper Nile. To allow +of the passage of boats a canal has been cut, about ten feet +wide, but it requires constant clearance, and its transit is not +accomplished without considerable difficulty. Two +days’ hard work from morning till night carried the +voyagers through it, and with feelings of relief and exultation +they found themselves once more on the open Nile and beyond the +dam. But as they floated past the Sobat junction, the +terrible plague broke out on board their vessel, carrying off two +of <a name="page403"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 403</span>the +crew, and the boy Saat, who had served them so long and so +faithfully. It was a sad conclusion to an expedition which, +though fraught with sufferings, trials, and dangers, had, on the +whole, been crowned with complete success.</p> +<p>It was the evening of the 5th of May, 1865, when Sir Samuel +and Lady Baker entered Khartûm, to be welcomed by the whole +European population as if they had risen from the dead. On +the 1st of July they left it for Berber. In making the +passage of the Cataracts they narrowly escaped shipwreck; their +boat, as it sped along under full sail before a high gale of +wind, struck broadside upon a sandbank. About sixty yards +below rose a ridge of rocks on which it seemed certain that the +vessel would be driven, if it cleared the bank; so that to avoid +Scylla was to rush into Charybdis. Sir Samuel, however, +proved equal to the occasion. An anchor was laid up stream; +the crew hauled on the cable, and the great force of the current +pressing against the vessels’ broadside, she wore gradually +round. All hands then laboured to clear away the sand, +which, when loosened by their hands and feet, the swift full +current rapidly carried away. For five hours they remained +in this position, with the boat cracking, and half filled with +water; however, a channel was opened at last, and slipping the +cable, Sir Samuel hoisted sail, and with the velocity of an +arrow, the head of the vessel swung round, and away she went, +plunging through the swirling, boiling water, and clearing the +rocks by a few inches.</p> +<p>They arrived at Berber, and procuring camels, started east for +Souakim on the Red Sea, a distance <a name="page404"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 404</span>of two hundred and seventy-five +miles. There they obtained passage on board an Egyptian +Government steamer, and in five days landed at Suez. Here +ends the record of their heroic enterprise. <a +name="citation404"></a><a href="#footnote404" +class="citation">[404]</a></p> +<h2><a name="page405"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +405</span>INDEX.</h2> +<p style="text-align: center">A</p> +<p>A’damáwa, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span>; capital of <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page119">119</a></span></p> +<p>Africa, exploration in, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page365">365</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page366">366</a></span></p> +<p>Agadez, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page97">97</a></span>; customs of inhabitants of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page98">98</a></span></p> +<p>Alatou Mountains, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page222">222</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page225">225</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page227">227</a></span></p> +<p>Albert Nyanza, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page391">391</a></span>–393</p> +<p>Aliyú, the Emir, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page135">135</a></span></p> +<p>Altai, lakes of the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page193">193</a></span></p> +<p>Altin-Kool, Lake, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page195">195</a></span></p> +<p>Alty-Kuduk, camp of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page277">277</a></span></p> +<p>American camp at Valverde, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>American trapper, an, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page71">71</a></span></p> +<p>Amu-Daria, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page278">278</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page350">350</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page351">351</a></span></p> +<p>Ara, river, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page226">226</a></span></p> +<p>Aral, Lake or Sea of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page343">343</a></span></p> +<p>Arkansas valley, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page80">80</a></span></p> +<p>Asben, Mount, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Asua, river, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page384">384</a></span></p> +<p>Atado, town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page386">386</a></span></p> +<p>Atkinson, Thomas Witlam, travels in Siberia and Central Asia, +<span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page157">157</a></span>–228</p> +<p>Australia, sketch of discovery in, <span +class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page293">293</a></span>–295</p> +<p style="text-align: center">B</p> +<p>Bacsi, the, enchantments of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +<p>Badakshan, the river, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +<p>Badámuni, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page130">130</a></span></p> +<p>Bielouka Mountains, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page206">206</a></span></p> +<p>Bagara Arabs, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page382">382</a></span></p> +<p>Bagirmi, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page121">121</a></span></p> +<p>Bagma, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page116">116</a></span></p> +<p>Baikal Lake, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page228">228</a></span></p> +<p>Baker, Sir Samuel and Lady, discover the Albert Nyanza, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page238">238</a></span></p> +<p>Baker, Lady, illness of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page390">390</a></span>–392</p> +<p>Baker, Sir Samuel, travels in Africa, <span +class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page365">365</a></span>–404</p> +<p>Barnaoul, mines of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page186">186</a></span></p> +<p>Barth, Dr., African travels of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page90">90</a></span>–156</p> +<p>Bear, adventure with a, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page189">189</a></span></p> +<p>Beaver-trapping, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page79">79</a></span></p> +<p>Bénuwé, the river, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page118">118</a></span></p> +<p>Berber, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page403">403</a></span></p> +<p>Boiling Spring River, legend of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page84">84</a></span></p> +<p>Bokhara, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page323">323</a></span></p> +<p>Bornú, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page105">105</a></span>; capital of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>Bronze-wing pigeon, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page305">305</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page306">306</a></span></p> +<p>Búdduma, or African Lake pirates, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page110">110</a></span></p> +<p>Bull-tailing, Mexican sport of, described, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page57">57</a></span></p> +<p>Burnaby, Major, travels in Khiva, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page325">325</a></span>–364</p> +<p style="text-align: center">C</p> +<p>Caldwell, Bishop, quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +<p>Cambaluc, visited by Marco Polo, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Camels in Australia, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page308">308</a></span>–310, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page315">315</a></span>; in +Turkistan, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page341">341</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page342">342</a></span></p> +<p><a name="page406"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +406</span>Cameron, Lieutenant, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page366">366</a></span></p> +<p>Chandu, city of, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Chihuahua, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +<p>Chinese, curious superstition of the, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +<p>Coleridge, quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +<p>Comanche Indians, the, story of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page56">56</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Cossack officer, a, adventure of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page191">191</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">D</p> +<p>D’Ablaing, Baron, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span></p> +<p>Darma Tsyren, Mr. Atkinson’s visit to, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page215">215</a></span></p> +<p>Demons’ Mountain, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span></p> +<p>“Devil-dancing,” <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +<p>Diamond-sparrow, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page300">300</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page301">301</a></span></p> +<p>Doré, African town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page142">142</a></span></p> +<p>Durango, Mexican town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">E</p> +<p>Ekaterineburg, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page164">164</a></span></p> +<p>Elephant-hunting, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page381">381</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page382">382</a></span></p> +<p>El Gallo, sport of, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page66">66</a></span></p> +<p>Eremil, river, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page223">223</a></span></p> +<p>Errington, Port, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page239">239</a></span></p> +<p>Escamilla, story of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span>–63</p> +<p style="text-align: center">F</p> +<p>Flinders, Lieutenant, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page293">293</a></span></p> +<p>Fogha, valley of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page138">138</a></span></p> +<p>Frost-bitten, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page338">338</a></span>–340</p> +<p>Fulbi, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page101">101</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">G</p> +<p>Ghat, oasis of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>Ghûls, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p>Glenelg, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page322">322</a></span></p> +<p>Gobi, the Great Desert of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page18">18</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page212">212</a></span>–214</p> +<p>Golden Lake, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page195">195</a></span></p> +<p>Gondokoro, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page247">247</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page374">374</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page375">375</a></span></p> +<p>Grant, Captain, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page241">241</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page368">368</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page377">377</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">H</p> +<p>Heiligenkreuz, missionary settlement of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page246">246</a></span></p> +<p>Heughlin, Dr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page249">249</a></span></p> +<p>Hommaire de Hell, Madame, quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">I</p> +<p>Ivory-dealers, the African, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page255">255</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">J</p> +<p>Jana-Daria, desert of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page349">349</a></span></p> +<p>Jornada del Muerto, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page69">69</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">K</p> +<p>Kaiping-fu, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Kalenderhana, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page349">349</a></span></p> +<p>Kalmucks, the, manners and customs of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page198">198</a></span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page199">199</a></span></p> +<p>Kamrasi, the chief of Unyoro, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page388">388</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page389">389</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page398">398</a></span></p> +<p>Kanó, town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Kara-Kalpaks, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page263">263</a></span></p> +<p>Karakorum Mountains, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page197">197</a></span></p> +<p>Karuma Falls, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page386">386</a></span></p> +<p>Kasala, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page260">260</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page335">335</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page336">336</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page343">343</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page364">364</a></span></p> +<p>Katchiba, African chief, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page383">383</a></span></p> +<p>Katounaia, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page200">200</a></span></p> +<p>Katséna, town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Kauffmann, General, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page280">280</a></span></p> +<p>Khala-Ata, fortress of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page274">274</a></span></p> +<p>Khan of Khiva, palace of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page283">283</a></span>; description of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page285">285</a></span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page357">357</a></span>–359</p> +<p>Khartûm, town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page234">234</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page370">370</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page402">402</a></span></p> +<p>Khiva, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page282">282</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page283">283</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page285">285</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page287">287</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page355">355</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page356">356</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page360">360</a></span></p> +<p>Khivans, the, account of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page281">281</a></span></p> +<p>Kibitka, a, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page179">179</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page180">180</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page264">264</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page344">344</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page346">346</a></span></p> +<p>Kirghiz chief, a, description of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page182">182</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page183">183</a></span></p> +<p>Kirghiz tribes, the, habits of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page178">178</a></span>–182, <span +class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page264">264</a></span>–267</p> +<p>Kolyvan Lake, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page169">169</a></span></p> +<p>Kongo, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page367">367</a></span></p> +<p>Kublai Khan, Marco Polo’s visit to the court of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +<p>Kúkáwa, in Bornú, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>Kyzil-Kum, desert of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page261">261</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page263">263</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page407"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 407</span>L</p> +<p>Latookas, tribe of the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page379">379</a></span>–381</p> +<p>Lepson, river, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page225">225</a></span></p> +<p>Lindsay, Hon. Robert, quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +<p>Livingstone, Dr., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page364">364</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page365">365</a></span></p> +<p>Lop, or Lob, city of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Luta N’zige, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page377">377</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">M</p> +<p>MacGahan, Mr. J. A., with the Russian army in Khiva, <span +class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page260">260</a></span>–292</p> +<p>Maduwári, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>Magango, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page395">395</a></span></p> +<p>Mal Pais, the, description of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page55">55</a></span></p> +<p>Mapimi, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page67">67</a></span></p> +<p>Marco Polo, travels of, in Central Asia, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page1">1</a></span>–48</p> +<p>Másená, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page124">124</a></span></p> +<p>Mexicans, the, character of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page49">49</a></span>; sports of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page59">59</a></span></p> +<p>Mexico, geographical characteristics of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page50">50</a></span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +<p>Mongols, the, habits of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span>–22</p> +<p>Morzouk, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page91">91</a></span></p> +<p>Muna Aim, story of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page267">267</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page268">268</a></span></p> +<p>Múniyo, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Murchison Falls, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page396">396</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">N</p> +<p>Nicholas, the Grand-Duke, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page280">280</a></span></p> +<p>Niger, the, description of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span>; basin of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page367">367</a></span></p> +<p>Nile, the, scenery of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page235">235</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page236">236</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page371">371</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page400">400</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page401">401</a></span>; basin of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page367">367</a></span></p> +<p>Nô, Lake, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page243">243</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +<p>Nor-Zaisan, Lake, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page176">176</a></span></p> +<p>Nuehr tribe, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page372">372</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">O</p> +<p>Oakover, river, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page315">315</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page320">320</a></span></p> +<p>Obbo, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page383">383</a></span></p> +<p>Oogentel, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page353">353</a></span></p> +<p>Orenburg, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page335">335</a></span></p> +<p>Overweg, Mr., joins Dr. Barth, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page112">112</a></span>; death of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page128">128</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">P</p> +<p>Pamir, table-land of, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Pardalote, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page300">300</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page301">301</a></span></p> +<p>Peking (anc. Cambaluc), <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +<p>Perovsky, Fort, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page261">261</a></span></p> +<p>Petro-Alexandrovsky, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page361">361</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page362">362</a></span></p> +<p>Phayre, Sir A., quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page54">54</a></span></p> +<p>Pike’s Peak, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page88">88</a></span></p> +<p>Porcupine-grass, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page299">299</a></span></p> +<p>Palque, Mexican drink of, described, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">Q</p> +<p>Queretaro, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page51">51</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">R</p> +<p>Ramusio, quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +<p>Rancho, a Mexican, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page66">66</a></span></p> +<p>Reg, Lake, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page249">249</a></span></p> +<p>Richardson, Mr. James, African traveller, death of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page106">106</a></span></p> +<p>Rio Colorado, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page78">78</a></span></p> +<p>Rocky Mountains, in the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page74">74</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page75">75</a></span></p> +<p>Ruxton, Mr. George F., travels in Mexico, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page49">49</a></span>–89</p> +<p style="text-align: center">S</p> +<p>Sagárti, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>Samara, Russian town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page331">331</a></span></p> +<p>Santa Fé, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page73">73</a></span></p> +<p>Say, town of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page139">139</a></span></p> +<p>Sesamum, the, cultivation of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page385">385</a></span></p> +<p>Shamo, country of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page114">114</a></span></p> +<p>Shillooks, the, character of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page242">242</a></span>–244, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page371">371</a></span></p> +<p>Shir, the, African tribe of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page373">373</a></span></p> +<p>Shooa, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page384">384</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page385">385</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page399">399</a></span></p> +<p>Snake Indians, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page85">85</a></span></p> +<p>Snow-storm in Arkansas, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page81">81</a></span></p> +<p>Sobat, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page371">371</a></span></p> +<p>Somerset, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page386">386</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page391">391</a></span></p> +<p>Sourays, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page111">111</a></span></p> +<p>Speke, Captain, travels of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page368">368</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page369">369</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page377">377</a></span></p> +<p>Stanley, Mr. H. M., <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page368">368</a></span></p> +<p>Steudner, Dr., death of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page250">250</a></span></p> +<p>Syr-Daria, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page260">260</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page345">345</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page408"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 408</span>T</p> +<p>Tartars, the, described by Marco Polo, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page20">20</a></span>–25</p> +<p>Tasáwa, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page100">100</a></span></p> +<p>Tchad, Lake, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page110">110</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page120">120</a></span></p> +<p>Terekli, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page340">340</a></span></p> +<p>Thian-Shan, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page325">325</a></span></p> +<p>Tibet, description of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span>–43</p> +<p>Timbuktu, described, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page150">150</a></span></p> +<p>Tinné, Alexina, travels of, in the Soudan, <span +class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page230">230</a></span>–259</p> +<p>Tiska, Mount, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page96">96</a></span></p> +<p>Tollogo, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page378">378</a></span></p> +<p>Towaregs, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page92">92</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page95">95</a></span></p> +<p>Traveller’s Tree, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page400">400</a></span></p> +<p>Turkistan, boundaries and divisions of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page325">325</a></span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page326">326</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">U</p> +<p>Uafour river, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page389">389</a></span></p> +<p>Unyoro, country of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page387">387</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page388">388</a></span></p> +<p>U’shek, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page129">129</a></span></p> +<p>Uzbegs, the, customs of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page288">288</a></span>; a house of, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page289">289</a></span>, <span +class="indexpageno"><a href="#page290">290</a></span>; dance of, +<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page290">290</a></span>, +<span class="indexpageno"><a href="#page291">291</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">V</p> +<p>Vacovia, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page394">394</a></span></p> +<p>Valverde, American camp at, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page70">70</a></span></p> +<p>Venice, rivalry of, with Genoa, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +<p>Victoria Nyanza, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page369">369</a></span></p> +<p>Victoria White Nile, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page386">386</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page395">395</a></span></p> +<p>Volga, the, sleighing on, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page330">330</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">W</p> +<p>Wakkala, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page379">379</a></span></p> +<p>Warburton, Colonel Egerton explores West Australia, <span +class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page293">293</a></span>–324</p> +<p>White Nile, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page244">244</a></span></p> +<p>Wood, Captain John, quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +<p>Wordsworth, quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page60">60</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">Y</p> +<p>Yule, Colonel, quoted, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page1">1</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page2">2</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +<p>Yuz-Kudak, valley of, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page271">271</a></span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">Z</p> +<p>Zacatero, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page68">68</a></span></p> +<p>Zambési, the, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page367">367</a></span></p> +<p>Zindu, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page131">131</a></span></p> +<h2>NOTES</h2> +<p><a name="footnote3"></a><a href="#citation3" +class="footnote">[3]</a> The roc, a gigantic bird, which +figures in the Eastern fable of Sinbad the Sailor.</p> +<p><a name="footnote12"></a><a href="#citation12" +class="footnote">[12]</a> A rich, quaint, walled-up +doorway, in semi-Monastic, semi-Byzantine style, still extant in +the Corte del Sabbrin, or Corta Sabbonicia, is nearly all that +remains of the house of Messer Marco Palo.</p> +<p><a name="footnote17"></a><a href="#citation17" +class="footnote">[17]</a> A summary of the Russian +explorations of the Pamir, by Sievertzof, has been published in +Kettler’s “Zeitschrift für wissenschaftliche +Geographie.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote22"></a><a href="#citation22" +class="footnote">[22]</a> <i>Cuir-bouilli</i>, leather +softened by boiling, during which process it took any form or +impression required, and afterwards hardened.</p> +<p><a name="footnote35"></a><a href="#citation35" +class="footnote">[35]</a> Probably <i>malachite</i>, or +carbonate of copper.</p> +<p><a name="footnote41"></a><a href="#citation41" +class="footnote">[41]</a> The Hon. Robert Lindsay +writes:—“At night each man lights a fire at his post, +and furnishes himself with a dozen joints of the large bamboo, +one of which he occasionally throws into the fire, and the air it +contains being rarefied by the heat, it explodes with a report as +loud as a musket.”—“Lives of the +Lindsays,” iii. 191.</p> +<p><a name="footnote89"></a><a href="#citation89" +class="footnote">[89]</a> G. F. Ruxton, “Adventures +in Mexico and the Rocky Mountains.” London, 1861.</p> +<p><a name="footnote156"></a><a href="#citation156" +class="footnote">[156]</a> Heinrich Barth, “Travels +and Discoveries in North and Central Africa.” Second +edition. London, 1857.</p> +<p><a name="footnote159"></a><a href="#citation159" +class="footnote">[159]</a> The scenery of the Tchossowaia +valley is warmly praised by Sir Roderick Murchison. +“A more picturesque river-gorge,” he says, “was +certainly never examined by geologists. Between the hamlet +of Kinist and Ust-Koiva we passed through scenes even surpassing +in beauty those higher up the stream, and to which it would +require the pencil of a professed artist to do justice. The +river runs in a limestone gorge, in which are cliffs of every +variety of form, occasionally exposing large caverns along their +vertical faces, with trees and flowers grouped about in the +clefts—rocks varying in colour from black to +white.”—“Geology of the Oural,” p. +188.</p> +<p><a name="footnote166"></a><a href="#citation166" +class="footnote">[166]</a> A four-wheeled waggon, made +without either nail, bolt, or springs.</p> +<p><a name="footnote211"></a><a href="#citation211" +class="footnote">[211]</a> Mrs. Somerville, “Physical +Geography,” i. 105.</p> +<p><a name="footnote212"></a><a href="#citation212" +class="footnote">[212]</a> Humboldt, “Ansichten der +Natur,” i. 8.</p> +<p><a name="footnote228"></a><a href="#citation228" +class="footnote">[228]</a> T. W. Atkinson, “Oriental +and Western Siberia.” London, 1858.</p> +<p><a name="footnote249"></a><a href="#citation249" +class="footnote">[249]</a> It is, in reality, nothing more +than a curve of the river, which forms an island of about half a +mile in length, called Meschra-el-Reg.</p> +<p><a name="footnote259"></a><a href="#citation259" +class="footnote">[259]</a> Augustus Petermann, +<i>Mittheilungen</i>; Dr. Heughlin, “Reise in das Gobiet, +des Weissen Nil, etc.”</p> +<p><a name="footnote302"></a><a href="#citation302" +class="footnote">[302]</a> These consist of a few links of +chain, with a swivel in the middle, and a steel strap with a +buckle at either end. They are fastened round the +animal’s fore-legs just above the hoof, so as to confine +the feet together, and render straying difficult.</p> +<p><a name="footnote324"></a><a href="#citation324" +class="footnote">[324]</a> Colonel Egerton Warburton, +C.M.G., “Journey across the Western Interior of +Australia,” with Introduction, etc., by C. H. Eden. +Edited by H. W. Bates. London, 1875.</p> +<p><a name="footnote359"></a><a href="#citation359" +class="footnote">[359]</a> During the viceroyalty of Lord +Northbrook.</p> +<p><a name="footnote364"></a><a href="#citation364" +class="footnote">[364]</a> “A Ride to Khiva: Travels +and Adventures in Central Asia.” By Fred Burnaby, +Captain, Royal Horse Guards. Second edition. London, +1876.</p> +<p><a name="footnote369"></a><a href="#citation369" +class="footnote">[369]</a> Our gallant explorer was not +knighted until 1866, but throughout this chapter we shall use the +title by which he is so well and so honourably known.</p> +<p><a name="footnote404"></a><a href="#citation404" +class="footnote">[404]</a> Sir Samuel White Baker, +“The Albert Nyanza, Great Basin of the Nile, and +Explorations of the Nile Sources.” London, 1866.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOME HEROES OF TRAVEL***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 42749-h.htm or 42749-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/2/7/4/42749 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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