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diff --git a/42758-h/42758-h.htm b/42758-h/42758-h.htm index 552946c..2355432 100644 --- a/42758-h/42758-h.htm +++ b/42758-h/42758-h.htm @@ -3,7 +3,7 @@ <html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> <head> - <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> <title> The Project Gutenberg eBook of True Tales of Mountain Adventure, by Mrs Aubrey Le Blond. @@ -186,47 +186,7 @@ td {padding-right: 1em; </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of True Tales of Mountain Adventures, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: True Tales of Mountain Adventures - For Non-Climbers Young and Old - -Author: Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -Release Date: May 21, 2013 [EBook #42758] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42758 ***</div> <div class="tnbox"> <p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> @@ -267,7 +227,7 @@ ADVENTURE (MRS MAIN)</p> <p class="p4 center">NEW YORK<br /> -E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY<br /> +E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY<br /> 1903</p> <p class="center s08 p6">(<i>All rights reserved.</i>)</p> @@ -394,7 +354,7 @@ relics discovered in 1897.</p> <p>The illustrations, except those connected with the Arkwright accident, and a view of -the Matterhorn, by the late Mr W. F. Donkin, +the Matterhorn, by the late Mr W. F. Donkin, are from photographs by me. By them I have tried rather to show how climbers carry out their mountaineering than to illustrate any @@ -610,7 +570,7 @@ Way to Descend: Very Soft Snow</td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo42">42</a></td> </tr> <tr> -<td>Piz Palü: Hans and Christian Grass</td> +<td>Piz Palü: Hans and Christian Grass</td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo44">44</a></td> </tr> <tr> @@ -622,7 +582,7 @@ Way to Descend: Very Soft Snow</td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo59">59</a></td> </tr> <tr> -<td>Eiger and Mönch from Lauberhorn</td> +<td>Eiger and Mönch from Lauberhorn</td> <td class="tdr"><a href="#illo66">66</a></td> </tr> <tr> @@ -932,7 +892,7 @@ ice. You bring about this change in your snow-ball in a moment. Nature, in making a glacier, takes much longer, so that what was snow one year is only partly ice the next—it is known as -<i>nevé</i>—and it is not until after several seasons +<i>nevé</i>—and it is not until after several seasons that it becomes the pure ice we see in the lower part of a glacier.</p> @@ -1133,7 +1093,7 @@ AVALANCHES</h2> Alps have been due to avalanches, and perhaps, as avalanches take place from different causes and have various characteristics, according to whether -they are of ice, snow, or <i>débris</i>, some account of them +they are of ice, snow, or <i>débris</i>, some account of them may not be out of place.</p> <p>We may briefly classify them as follows:—</p> @@ -1218,7 +1178,7 @@ it. The wind sweeps everything before it, and many are the tales related by those who have survived or witnessed a display of its power. On one occasion more than a hundred houses were overwhelmed by a huge -avalanche at Saas (Prättigau, near Davos), and during +avalanche at Saas (Prättigau, near Davos), and during the search afterwards the rescue party found amidst the ruins a child lying asleep and uninjured in his cradle, which had been blown to some distance from @@ -1314,7 +1274,7 @@ exposed places.</p> <p>In order that an avalanche may get up speed enough to commence its swift career, the slope the snow rests on where it starts must be at an angle of -from 30° to 35° at least. +from 30° to 35° at least. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">22</a></span></p> <h2>CHAPTER IV<br /> @@ -1366,7 +1326,7 @@ have heard from other guides which routes have been followed, and will know that if he desires to take his traveller up the ordinary way he must go past the Schwarz-see Hotel, and on to the ridge -which terminates in the Hörnli, making for the +which terminates in the Hörnli, making for the hut which he has seen from below through the telescope. Then he remembers that he must cross to the east face, and while doing so he will notice @@ -1534,14 +1494,14 @@ of head, and I consider him a first-class guide, and have pleasure in recommending him.</p> <p class="left45"> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">A. S. Smith</span>.</p> +(Signed) <span class="smcap">A. S. Smith</span>.</p> </div> <p>Now, this is by some one you never heard of, and -a very little consideration will show you that A. S. +a very little consideration will show you that A. S. Smith is quite ignorant of climbing, judging by his wording of the certificate. That which follows, -taken from the late Christian Almer's <i>Führerbuch</i>, +taken from the late Christian Almer's <i>Führerbuch</i>, is the sort of thing to carry weight:—</p> <div class="blockquot"> @@ -1558,7 +1518,7 @@ utmost daring and courage he unites prudence and foresight, seldom found in combination.</p> <p class="left45"> -(Signed) <span class="smcap">W. A. B. Coolidge</span>.</p> +(Signed) <span class="smcap">W. A. B. Coolidge</span>.</p> <p>Visp, September 22nd, 1871.</p> </div> @@ -1636,7 +1596,7 @@ and I am sure I can satisfy you if you will take me.'</p> <p>"He was quite ready to do so, and we crossed -the Col du Géant and went up Mont Blanc, but +the Col du Géant and went up Mont Blanc, but could do no more as the weather was bad. Then he wrote a great deal in my book, and since then I have never been in want of a gentleman to @@ -1644,9 +1604,9 @@ guide."</p> <p>Imboden's eldest son, Roman, began still younger. When only thirteen he was employed by a member -of the Alpine Club, Mr G. S. Barnes, to carry his +of the Alpine Club, Mr G. S. Barnes, to carry his lunch on the picnics he made with his friends on -the glaciers near Saas-Fée. The party eventually +the glaciers near Saas-Fée. The party eventually undertook more ambitious expeditions, and one evening, Roman, who was very small for his age, was seen entering his native village at the head @@ -1661,7 +1621,7 @@ Alpine guide.</p> <p>During some fifteen seasons Imboden accompanied me on my climbs, frequently with Roman as second guide. Once the latter went with me -to Dauphiné, and, though only twenty-three at the +to Dauphiné, and, though only twenty-three at the time, took me up the Meije, Ecrins, and other big peaks, his father being detained at home by reason of a bitter feud with the railway company about to @@ -1691,7 +1651,7 @@ soon." So Roman waited, saw Dr Guntner, liked him immensely, and engaged himself, not only till the end of the season, but also for a five months' mountaineering expedition in the Himalayas. We -had all arrived at Zermatt from Fée a few days +had all arrived at Zermatt from Fée a few days before, and while we waited in the valley for good weather, Dr Guntner, Roman Imboden, and Ruppen went to the Monte Rosa Hut to get some exercise @@ -2018,7 +1978,7 @@ we were all carried off our feet. Luckily, we were able, by thrusting our axes through into a lower and harder layer of snow, to arrest our wild career.</p> -<p>Piz Palü, in the Engadine, was once nearly the +<p>Piz Palü, in the Engadine, was once nearly the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">44</a></span> scene of a terrible tragedy through the breaking of a cornice, the party only being saved by the quickness @@ -2054,7 +2014,7 @@ time one strand only of the rope had remained intact.</p> <div class="figcenter"><a name="illo44" id="illo44"></a> <img src="images/i_087a.jpg" width="400" height="515" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">The dotted line in the top right-hand corner shows the spot on Piz Palü +<p class="caption">The dotted line in the top right-hand corner shows the spot on Piz Palü where the Wainwright accident took place, the slope being the one the party fell down.</p> </div> @@ -2372,7 +2332,7 @@ photography from the easier peaks, I have taken whoever was willing to come and carry the camera, and on one occasion had rather an amusing experience with an indifferent specimen of the Pontresina -<i>Führerverein</i>. All went well at first, and +<i>Führerverein</i>. All went well at first, and our large party, mostly of friends who knew nothing of climbing, trudged along quite happily till after our first halt for food. When we started again @@ -2494,7 +2454,7 @@ Strange to say, the snow supported him. While he was passing, I observed that the leader, Bevard, had ten or twelve feet of rope coiled round his shoulder. I of course at once told him to uncoil -it, and get on to the arête, from which he was +it, and get on to the arête, from which he was <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">61</a></span> not more than fifteen feet distant. Bennen then told me to follow. I tried his steps, but sank up @@ -2638,14 +2598,14 @@ time the best guides had no experience.</p> <p class="center p2">A RACE FOR LIFE</p> <p>Once upon a time, in the year 1872, a certain -famous mountaineer, Mr F. F. Tuckett, had with his +famous mountaineer, Mr F. F. Tuckett, had with his party a desperate race for life. The climbers numbered five in all, three travellers and two guides, and had started from the Wengern Alp to ascend the Eiger. Nowadays there is a railway to the Wengern Alp, and so thousands of English people are familiar with the appearance of the magnificent group of mountains—the -Eiger, the Mönch, and the Jungfrau—which +Eiger, the Mönch, and the Jungfrau—which they have before them as they pass along in the train. Suffice it here to say that the way up the Eiger lies over a glacier, partly fed by another high @@ -2658,7 +2618,7 @@ did not fancy this part of the journey.</p> <div class="figcenter"><a name="illo66" id="illo66"></a> <img src="images/i_115.jpg" width="550" height="379" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Eiger. Mönch.</p> +<p class="caption">Eiger. Mönch.</p> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">From the Lauberhorn.</span></p> @@ -2680,7 +2640,7 @@ aloft, I believe that, for an instant or two, his was the only head not turned upwards in the direction from which it seemed to proceed, viz., the hanging ice-cliff; but the next moment, when a huge mass of -sérac broke away, mingled apparently with a still +sérac broke away, mingled apparently with a still larger contingent of snow from the slopes above, whose descent may, indeed, have caused, or at least hastened, the disruption of the glacier, every eye was @@ -2775,7 +2735,7 @@ the waters of the Red Sea, standing 'upright as an heap' to let the Israelites through.</p> <p>"The avalanche itself consisted of a mixture, in -tolerably equal proportions, of blocks of sérac of all +tolerably equal proportions, of blocks of sérac of all shapes and sizes, up to irregular cubes of four or five feet on a size, and snow thoroughly saturated with water—the most dangerous of all descriptions to @@ -2836,7 +2796,7 @@ him.</p> <p>"We could not simply cross over the couloir, for, on the opposite side, the rocks looked horrible: it -was only possible to cross it some forty or fifty mètres +was only possible to cross it some forty or fifty mètres higher. We climbed down into the couloir: the ice was furrowed by avalanches. We were obliged to cut steps as we mounted upwards in a sloping direction. @@ -2848,7 +2808,7 @@ completely cut off.' We saw clearly that it was only the early hour, before the sun was yet upon the couloir, which protected us from danger. Once more upon the rocks, we kept our course as much as possible -parallel to the N.W. arête. We clambered +parallel to the N.W. arête. We clambered along, first over rocks covered with ice, then over glassy ledges, always sloping downwards. Our progress was slow indeed; the formation of the rock surface @@ -2898,7 +2858,7 @@ divides the whole face of the mountain into two parts. It was now five o'clock in the afternoon; the burning rays of the sun came down upon us, and countless stones whirled through the air. We -remembered the saying of Dr Güssfeldt, in his +remembered the saying of Dr Güssfeldt, in his magnificent description of the passage of the Col du Lion, that only at midnight is tranquility restored. We resolved, then, to risk the short @@ -3016,7 +2976,7 @@ character, as the ice from a falling glacier rarely ever approaches cultivated land and dwellings.</p> <p>The scene of the catastrophe was at Spitalmatten, -a pasturage with châlets used in summer by the +a pasturage with châlets used in summer by the shepherds, in a basin at the beginning of the valley which extends to the pass. Steep slopes bound it on the east, and above them rises the glacier-capped @@ -3031,13 +2991,13 @@ cut off from the upper portion by it.</p> <p>On the evening of 10th September, the Vice-President of the commune of Leuk (to which commune <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">80</a></span> -the Alp belonged) arrived at the châlets to +the Alp belonged) arrived at the châlets to settle the accounts of the past summer. Several of the women had already gone down, taking some of the calves with them, and the rest of the inhabitants of the little settlement were to follow next day. The weather was warm but cloudy, with a strong -<i>föhn</i> wind.<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> +<i>föhn</i> wind.<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a></p> <p>On the morning of 11th September, about 5 <span class="s08">A.M.</span>, the few people who lived at or near the Schwarenbach @@ -3249,7 +3209,7 @@ my mountaineering costume. It was of the lightest possible material, so that, if returning by a different route, it could be rolled up and carried in a knapsack. I generally started from the bivouac without it; but -the presence on this occasion of the Mayor of Täsch +the presence on this occasion of the Mayor of Täsch had quite overawed me; hence the unusual elegance of my get-up. Lest I be thought to dwell at undue length on so trifling a matter, I may add that the @@ -3381,7 +3341,7 @@ it.</p> <p>The late John Addington Symonds has related in one of his charming accounts of winter in the Alps that an old woman, sitting peaceably before her -châlet door in the sun, was transported by the wind +châlet door in the sun, was transported by the wind of an avalanche to the top of a lofty pine-tree, where, quite uninjured, she calmly awaited assistance; but that my skirt should have such an adventure brought @@ -3520,7 +3480,7 @@ danger disturbed them. the entire surface of the snow began to move. "My God! The avalanche! We are lost!" shrieked the guides. The slope at Dr Hamel's end of the -party was not steep,—barely more than 30°—but up +party was not steep,—barely more than 30°—but up above it was more rapid. The leading guides were carried straightway off their feet. Hamel was also swept away by the gathering mass of snow. Using @@ -3564,7 +3524,7 @@ were the three foremost in the line and felt the first effects of the avalanche. Matthieu Balmat, who was fourth in the line, saved himself by his great personal strength and by presence of -mind. Julien Dévouassoud was hurled across the +mind. Julien Dévouassoud was hurled across the crevasse, and Joseph Marie Couttet was dragged out senseless by his companions, 'nearly black from the weight of snow which had fallen upon @@ -3651,9 +3611,9 @@ though no climber, decided to make the attempt. One of his sisters went with him as far as the hut at the Grands Mulets, and they were accompanied by the guide Michael Simond, and the porters Joseph and -François Tournier. Another party proposed also to +François Tournier. Another party proposed also to go up. It consisted of two persons only, Sylvain -Couttet and an <i>employé</i> of the Hotel Royal named +Couttet and an <i>employé</i> of the Hotel Royal named Nicolas Winhart, whom Sylvain had promised to conduct to the top when he had time and opportunity. It was the 12th October when they left Chamonix, @@ -3691,7 +3651,7 @@ us his share!' It was to this kindly thought for my comrade that, without the slightest doubt, Winhart <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">101</a></span> and I owe our salvation! We had been walking for -about ten minutes near some very threatening <i>séracs</i> +about ten minutes near some very threatening <i>séracs</i> when a crack was heard above us a little to the right. Without reasoning, I instinctively cried, 'Walk quickly!' and I rushed forwards, while someone @@ -3730,13 +3690,13 @@ oppressed with grief, commenced to explore in every direction the enormous mountain of shattered ice-blocks which lay below us. Finally, about 150 feet further down I saw a knapsack—then a man. It was -François Tournier, his face terribly mutilated, and +François Tournier, his face terribly mutilated, and his skull smashed in by a piece of ice. The cord had been broken between Tournier and the man next to him. We continued our search in the neighbourhood of his body, but after two hours' work could find nothing more. It was vain to make further efforts! -Nothing was visible amongst the masses of <i>débris</i>, +Nothing was visible amongst the masses of <i>débris</i>, as big as houses, and we had no tools except my axe and Winhart's stick. We drew the body of poor Tournier after us as far as the Grand Plateau, @@ -3786,7 +3746,7 @@ Chamonix: <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">104</a></span></p> <p>"Restes Henry Arkwright peri Mont Blanc 1866 -retrouvés."</p> +retrouvés."</p> <p>Once more the glacier had given up its dead, and during these thirty-one years the body of Henry @@ -3868,7 +3828,7 @@ not one on which there has been such a deplorable loss of life. The very facility with which Mont Blanc can be climbed has tempted hundreds of persons totally unused to and unfitted for mountaineering -to go up it, while the tariff for the guides—£4 +to go up it, while the tariff for the guides—£4 each—has called into existence a crowd of incapable and inexperienced men who are naturally unable, when the need for it arrives, to face conditions @@ -3902,7 +3862,7 @@ the next morning they started upwards, leaving their only compass at their night quarters.</p> <p>During the whole of that 6th of September the -big telescope at the Châlet of Plan-Praz above +big telescope at the Châlet of Plan-Praz above Chamonix was fixed on their route, but they could only be seen from time to time, as the mountain was constantly hidden by driving clouds. At @@ -3921,7 +3881,7 @@ hurricane.</p> </div> <p>The Chamonix guide, Sylvain Couttet, had gone -to the châlet of Pierre-Pointue, where the riding +to the châlet of Pierre-Pointue, where the riding path ends, to await the return of the climbers. On the morning of the 7th, as there was still no sign of them, Sylvain became uneasy, and mounting @@ -4317,7 +4277,7 @@ in a difficulty, for the sides of our furrow were higher here than at the point where we entered it, and so overhanging that it was impossible to get out.</p> -<p>"Delay was dangerous, for the <i>débris</i> far below +<p>"Delay was dangerous, for the <i>débris</i> far below warned us that at any moment a shower of stones might come flying down our channel; a glissade <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">124</a></span> @@ -4332,7 +4292,7 @@ and half ice, his broad back, like a solid rock, being ready to check any slip of those behind him.</p> <p>"We were soon safe upon a fine open plateau -of the <i>névé</i>, where we threaded our way among a +of the <i>névé</i>, where we threaded our way among a few snow crevasses requiring caution, and then prepared for a comfortable halt in an apparently safe place.</p> @@ -4400,7 +4360,7 @@ exactly followed) as that of the Moming, from Zinal to Zermatt. Mr Whymper gives a most graphic and exciting description of what befell his party, which included Mr Moore and the two famous guides Almer -and Croz. Having slept at some filthy châlets, the +and Croz. Having slept at some filthy châlets, the climbers, first passing over easy mountain slopes, gained a level glacier. Beyond this a way towards the unexplored gap in the ridge, which they called @@ -4454,7 +4414,7 @@ three, went his axe, and then he stepped on to the spot he had been cutting. How painfully insecure should we have considered those steps at any other time! But now, we thought only of the rocks in -front, and of the hideous <i>séracs</i>, lurching over above +front, and of the hideous <i>séracs</i>, lurching over above us, apparently in the act of falling. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">129</a></span></p> @@ -4483,7 +4443,7 @@ change of plan, to have descended below the reach of danger, and to have mounted again by the route which Almer suggested, would have been equivalent to abandoning the excursion; for no one would have -passed another night in the châlet on the Arpitetta +passed another night in the châlet on the Arpitetta Alp. 'Many' says Thucydides, 'though seeing well <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">130</a></span> the perils ahead, are forced along by fear of dishonour—as @@ -4546,7 +4506,7 @@ itself on my mind as one of the most nervous I have ever made. We had to pass along a crest of ice, a mere knife-edge,—on our left a broad crevasse, whose bottom was lost in blue haze, -and on our right, at an angle of 70°, or more, a slope +and on our right, at an angle of 70°, or more, a slope falling to a similar gulf below. Croz, as he went along the edge, chipped small notches in the ice, in which we placed our feet, with the toes well turned @@ -4585,7 +4545,7 @@ to Zermatt by the familiar Trift path. <h2>CHAPTER XII<br /> AN EXCITING PASSAGE OF THE COL DE PILATTE</h2> -<p>Even now the valleys and mountains of Dauphiné +<p>Even now the valleys and mountains of Dauphiné are neglected in comparison with the ranges of Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, and other famous mountain chains of the Alps. In 1864, when Mr Whymper @@ -4683,13 +4643,13 @@ fresh in his memory. We are consequently unable to tell anything about the summit of the pass, except that it lies immediately to the east of Mont Bans, and is elevated about 11,300 feet above the level of -the sea. It is one of the highest passes in Dauphiné. +the sea. It is one of the highest passes in Dauphiné. We called it the Col de Pilatte.</p> <p>"We commenced to descend towards the Glacier de Pilatte by a slope of smooth ice, the face of which, according to the measurement of Mr Moore, had an -inclination of 54°! Croz still led, and the others +inclination of 54°! Croz still led, and the others followed at intervals of about 15 feet, all being tied together, and Almer occupying the responsible position of last man: the two guides were therefore @@ -4708,7 +4668,7 @@ this fashion. The axe of Croz all at once stopped. don't know; I think we must jump.' The clouds <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">138</a></span> rolled away right and left as he spoke. The effect -was dramatic! It was a <i>coup de théâtre</i>, preparatory +was dramatic! It was a <i>coup de théâtre</i>, preparatory to the 'great sensation leap' which was about to be executed by the entire company.</p> @@ -4719,7 +4679,7 @@ thus been formed extended, on each hand, as far as could be seen. We, on the slope above, were separated from the slope below by a mighty crevasse. No running up and down to look for an easier place -to cross could be done on an ice-slope of 54°; the +to cross could be done on an ice-slope of 54°; the chasm had to be passed then and there.</p> <p>"A downward jump of 15 or 16 feet, and a @@ -4766,7 +4726,7 @@ toe—it seemed to belong to Moore; we saw Reynaud a flying body, coming down as if taking a header into water; with arms and legs all abroad, his leg <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">140</a></span> -of mutton flying in the air, his bâton escaped from +of mutton flying in the air, his bâton escaped from his grasp; and then we heard a thud as if a bundle of carpets had been pitched out of a window. When set upon his feet he was a sorry spectacle; his head @@ -4786,7 +4746,7 @@ see 50 feet ahead, he still went on with the utmost certainty, and without having to retrace a single step; and displayed from first to last consummate knowledge of the materials with which he was dealing. -Now he cut steps down one side of a <i>sérac</i>, went +Now he cut steps down one side of a <i>sérac</i>, went with a dash at the other side, and hauled us up after him; then cut away along a ridge until a point was gained from which we could jump on to another @@ -4804,7 +4764,7 @@ down as quickly as if there had not been any mist at all. Then we attacked the leg of mutton which my friend had so thoughtfully brought with him, and afterwards raced down, with renewed energy, to La -Bérarde." +Bérarde." <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">142</a></span></p> <h2>CHAPTER XIII<br /> @@ -4821,7 +4781,7 @@ aged fifteen, two friends, two guides, and a porter, set out one lovely morning from the Eggischhorn Hotel for an excursion on the Great Aletsch Glacier. The names of the guides were Fedier and Andreas -Weissenflüh.</p> +Weissenflüh.</p> <p>Mr Longman writes:—"We started in high spirits; the glacier was in perfect order; no fresh snow @@ -4879,21 +4839,21 @@ and plainly. As I afterwards ascertained, he was 50 feet from me, and neither could he see us nor we see him. But he was evidently unhurt; he was not frightened, and he was not beyond reach. In an -instant Weissenflüh was ready to descend into the +instant Weissenflüh was ready to descend into the crevasse. He buckled on one of my belts,<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> fixed it <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">145</a></span> to the rope, and told us to lower him down. My two friends and I, and the other two guides, held on to the rope, and slowly and gradually, according -to Weissenflüh's directions, we paid it out. It was a +to Weissenflüh's directions, we paid it out. It was a slow business, but we kept on encouraging my son, and receiving cheery answers from him in return. -At last Weissenflüh told us, to our intense joy, that +At last Weissenflüh told us, to our intense joy, that he had reached my son, that he had hold of him, and that we might haul up. Strongly and steadily we held on, drawing both the boy and the guide, as we believed, nearer and nearer, till at length, to our inexpressible -horror, we drew up Weissenflüh alone. He +horror, we drew up Weissenflüh alone. He had held my son by the collar of his coat. The cloth was wet, his hand was cold, and the coat slipped from his grasp. I was told that when my boy thus again @@ -4901,7 +4861,7 @@ fell he uttered a cry, but either I heard it not or forgot it. The anguish of the moment prevented my noticing it, and, fortunately, we none of us lost our presence of mind, but steadily held on to the rope. -Poor Weissenflüh reached the surface exhausted, +Poor Weissenflüh reached the surface exhausted, dispirited, overwhelmed with grief. He threw himself on the glacier in terrible agony. In an instant Fedier was ready to descend, and we began to lower @@ -4909,13 +4869,13 @@ him; but the crevasse was narrow, and Fedier could not squeeze himself through the ice. We had to pull him up again before he had descended many feet. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">146</a></span> -By this time the brave young Weissenflüh had recovered, +By this time the brave young Weissenflüh had recovered, and was ready again to go down. But we thought it desirable to take the additional precaution of lowering the other rope, with one of the belts securely fixed to it. My son quickly got hold of it, and placed the belt round his body, but he told us -his hands were too cold to buckle it. Weissenflüh +his hands were too cold to buckle it. Weissenflüh now again descended, and soon he told us he had fixed the belt. With joyful heart some hauled away at one rope and some at the other, till at length, after @@ -4929,7 +4889,7 @@ his feet downwards, till his progress was arrested by the narrowness of the crevasse. He says he is sure he was stopped by being wedged in, because his feet were hanging loose. His arms were free. He -believes the distance he fell, when Weissenflüh +believes the distance he fell, when Weissenflüh dropped him, was about three or four yards, and that he fell to nearly, but not quite, the same place as that to which he fell at first, and that, in his first @@ -4954,9 +4914,9 @@ party mounted the glacier of the same name. The usual precautions were of course taken—that is to say, the three men were roped together, Herr Burckhardt in the middle, one of the guides before, the other -behind him. When the climbers reached the <i>séracs</i>, +behind him. When the climbers reached the <i>séracs</i>, at a point marked on the Siegfried Karte as being at -an elevation of 2700 mètres, an enormous piece of ice +an elevation of 2700 mètres, an enormous piece of ice broke off from the upper part of the glacier, and came thundering down. Although by good fortune the mass of the avalanche did not sweep across the path @@ -5033,7 +4993,7 @@ bravery for which it would be hard to find a parallel in the annals of mountaineering."</p> <p>On 1st September 1898, a party of two German -gentlemen with a couple of guides went up Piz Palü, +gentlemen with a couple of guides went up Piz Palü, a glacier-clad peak frequently ascended from Pontresina. One of the guides was a Tyrolese, Klimmer by name, the other a native of the Engadine, @@ -5070,7 +5030,7 @@ to fall also into the crevasse.</p> <div class="figcenter"><a name="illo150" id="illo150"></a> <img src="images/i_215a.jpg" width="400" height="275" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">Martin Schocher standing, Schnitzler sitting. On the Summit of Crast' Agüzza +<p class="caption">Martin Schocher standing, Schnitzler sitting. On the Summit of Crast' Agüzza in Mid-Winter.</p> </div> @@ -5188,7 +5148,7 @@ the way, and, to form a better judgment, he <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">155</a></span> left the ladies on the Col, half-stiffened with cold from the violence of the north wind, ascended to the -Parrot-Spitze, and advanced towards the Ludwigshöhe, +Parrot-Spitze, and advanced towards the Ludwigshöhe, in order to examine whether along this precipice, which lay inexorably in front, there might be a place where a passage could be effected. But wherever @@ -5197,7 +5157,7 @@ rocks and couloirs yet more precipitous.</p> <p>"In returning to the Col after his fruitless exploration, almost certain that he had lost his way, he saw -among some <i>débris</i> of rock, an empty bottle (which +among some <i>débris</i> of rock, an empty bottle (which had been placed there by Messrs George and Moore in 1862). This discovery persuaded him that here must be the pass, since some one in passing by the @@ -5348,7 +5308,7 @@ we entered his hut. After partaking of a frugal meal of bread and milk, we were glad to accept his offer of a hay bed, together with the unexpected luxury of sheets. When relating the story -of our arrival to the Abbé Farinetti on the following +of our arrival to the Abbé Farinetti on the following Sunday at Alagna, the shepherd said that so great was his astonishment at the sudden apparition of travellers from that direction, that he @@ -5425,7 +5385,7 @@ directions. The guides were in a hurry, so cutting our halt shorter than would have been agreeable, we <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">163</a></span> resumed our way at 7.55, and after a few steps up a -slope at an angle of 50°, found ourselves on the crest +slope at an angle of 50°, found ourselves on the crest of the buttress, and looking down upon, and across, the lower part of a glacier tributary to the Brenva, beyond which towered the grand wall of the Mont @@ -5437,14 +5397,14 @@ ridge on which we were, there would be no serious difficulty in traversing it, and so much as we could see ahead led us to hope that our anticipations would turn out correct. Before us lay a narrow but not -steep arête of rock and snow combined, which +steep arête of rock and snow combined, which appeared to terminate some distance in front in a sharp peak. We advanced cautiously, keeping rather below the top of the ridge, speculating with some curiosity on what lay beyond this peak. On reaching it, the apparent peak proved not to be a peak at all, but the extremity of the narrowest and -most formidable ice arête I ever saw, which extended +most formidable ice arête I ever saw, which extended almost on a level for an uncomfortably long distance. Looking back by the light of our subsequent success, I have always considered it a providential circumstance @@ -5474,7 +5434,7 @@ to see what we thought of it, while I do not suppose that it entered into the head of any one of us spontaneously to suggest a retreat.</p> -<p>"On most arêtes, however narrow the actual crest +<p>"On most arêtes, however narrow the actual crest may be, it is generally possible to get a certain amount of support by driving the pole into the slope on either side. But this was not the case here. We @@ -5483,7 +5443,7 @@ were on the top of a wall, the ice on the right falling vertically (I use the word advisedly), and on the left nearly so. On neither side was it possible to obtain the slightest hold with the alpenstock. I believe also -that an arête of pure ice is more often encountered +that an arête of pure ice is more often encountered in description than in reality, that term being generally applied to hard snow. But here, for once, we had the genuine article, blue ice without a speck @@ -5495,7 +5455,7 @@ it, and was therefore considerably startled on seeing the men in front suddenly abandon the upright position, which in spite of the insecurity of the steps and difficulty of preserving the balance, had been -hitherto maintained, and sit down <i>à cheval</i>. The +hitherto maintained, and sit down <i>à cheval</i>. The ridge had narrowed to a knife edge, and for a few yards it was utterly impossible to advance in any other way. The foremost men soon stood up again, @@ -5517,8 +5477,8 @@ throw themselves over on the other side or not—and if so, what would happen then. Fortunately the occasion for the solution of this curious problem did not arise, and at 9.30 we reached -the end of the arête, where it emerged in the long -slopes of broken <i>névé</i>, over which our way was next +the end of the arête, where it emerged in the long +slopes of broken <i>névé</i>, over which our way was next to lie. As we looked back along our perilous path, it was hard to repress a shudder, and I think the dominant feeling of every man was one of wonder @@ -5542,7 +5502,7 @@ between them and their goal "a great wall of ice running right across and completely barring the way upwards. Our position was, in fact, rather critical. Immediately over our heads the slope on which we -were, terminated in a great mass of broken <i>séracs</i>, +were, terminated in a great mass of broken <i>séracs</i>, which might come down with a run at any moment. It seemed improbable that any way out of our difficulties would be found in that quarter. But, where else @@ -5550,7 +5510,7 @@ to look? There was no use in going to the left—to the right we <i>could</i> not go—and back we <i>would</i> not go. After careful scrutiny, Melchior thought it just possible that we might find a passage through those -séracs on the higher and more level portion of the +séracs on the higher and more level portion of the glacier to the right of them, and there being obviously no chance of success in any other direction, we turned towards them. The ice here was steeper and harder @@ -5559,13 +5519,13 @@ the steps were painfully insecure, and we were glad to get a grip with one hand of the rocks alongside of which we passed. The risk, too, of an avalanche was considerable, and it was a relief when we were so -close under the séracs that a fall from above could +close under the séracs that a fall from above could <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">168</a></span> not well hurt us. Melchior had steered with his usual -discrimination, and was now attacking the séracs at +discrimination, and was now attacking the séracs at the only point where they appeared at all practical. Standing over the mouth of a crevasse choked with -<i>débris</i>, he endeavoured to lift himself on to its upper +<i>débris</i>, he endeavoured to lift himself on to its upper edge, which was about 15 feet above. But to accomplish this seemed at first a task too great even for his agility, aided as it was by vigorous pushes. @@ -5584,7 +5544,7 @@ all right.' That moment was worth living for."</p> party rapidly ascended higher and higher. "We reached the summit at 3.10, and found ourselves safe at Chamouni at 10.30. Our day's work had thus -extended to nearly 20 hours, of which 17½ hours +extended to nearly 20 hours, of which 17½ hours were actual walking."</p> <p>It is interesting to note that in after years a @@ -5601,7 +5561,7 @@ pace have given her a record on more than one great peak. Miss Richardson, having done all the hard part of the climb, descended from the Dome de Gouter. The second ascent by a lady was undertaken -successfully in 1899, by Mademoiselle Eugénie +successfully in 1899, by Mademoiselle Eugénie de Rochat, who has a brilliant list of climbs in the Mont Blanc district to her credit. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">170</a></span></p> @@ -5609,11 +5569,11 @@ Mont Blanc district to her credit. <h2>CHAPTER XV<br /> A FINE PERFORMANCE WITHOUT GUIDES</h2> -<p>The precipitous peak of the Meije, in Dauphiné, +<p>The precipitous peak of the Meije, in Dauphiné, had long, like the Matterhorn, been believed inaccessible, and it was only after repeated attempts that at last the summit was reached. The direct -route from La Bérarde will always be an extremely +route from La Bérarde will always be an extremely difficult climb to anyone who desires to do his fair share of the work; the descent of the great wall of rock is one of the few places I have been down, @@ -5630,7 +5590,7 @@ Pilkington and Mr Gardiner.</p> <div class="figcenter"><a name="illo171" id="illo171"></a> <img src="images/i_240a.jpg" width="550" height="411" alt="" /> -<p class="caption">The Meije is to the left, the Glacier Carré is the snow-patch on it, beneath this is the Great Wall.</p> +<p class="caption">The Meije is to the left, the Glacier Carré is the snow-patch on it, beneath this is the Great Wall.</p> </div> <div class="figcenter"> @@ -5638,7 +5598,7 @@ Pilkington and Mr Gardiner.</p> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Ascending a Snowy Wall</span> (<a href="#Page_216">page 216</a>).</p> </div> -<p>"On the 19th July 1878, we reached La Bérarde, +<p>"On the 19th July 1878, we reached La Bérarde, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">171</a></span> where we found Mr Coolidge with the two Almers. Coolidge knew that we had come to try the Meije, @@ -5651,10 +5611,10 @@ us as well that the difficulty did not so much consist in finding the way as in getting up it.</p> <p>"At two o'clock in the afternoon of 20th July, we -left for our bivouac in the Vallon des Etançons, taking +left for our bivouac in the Vallon des Etançons, taking another man with us besides our two porters, and at -four reached the large square rock called the Hôtel -Châteleret, after the ancient name of the valley. +four reached the large square rock called the Hôtel +Châteleret, after the ancient name of the valley. We determined to sleep here instead of at Coolidge's refuge a little higher up. The Meije was in full view, and we had our first good look at it since we @@ -5677,22 +5637,22 @@ at M. Duhamel's cairn, some distance up the mountain, whilst our porters were to improve the refuge and lay in a stock of firewood. The snow was very soft, and we were rather lazy, so it was not until -eleven that we reached the upper part of the Brêche +eleven that we reached the upper part of the Brêche Glacier, and were opposite our work. The way lies up the great southern buttress, which forms the -eastern boundary of the Brêche Glacier, merging into +eastern boundary of the Brêche Glacier, merging into the general face of the mountain about one-third of -the total height from the Glacier des Etançons, +the total height from the Glacier des Etançons, and 700 feet below, and a little to the west of the -Glacier Carré, from whence the final peak is climbed. +Glacier Carré, from whence the final peak is climbed. The chief difficulty is the ascent from M. Duhamel's cairn, on the top of the buttress to the Glacier -Carré.</p> +Carré.</p> <p>"After a few steps up the snow, we gained the crest of the buttress by a short scramble. The crest is narrow, but very easy, and we went rapidly along, -until we came to where a great break in the arête +until we came to where a great break in the arête divides the buttress into an upper and a lower part; being no longer able to keep along the crest, we were forced to cross the rocks to our left to the couloir. @@ -5722,7 +5682,7 @@ back, reaching the glacier in one hour and twenty minutes, and our bivouac in an hour and a half more. There we spent the next night and following day, but at last we had to give in to the bad weather, and -go sorrowfully down to La Bérarde. It was very +go sorrowfully down to La Bérarde. It was very disappointing. We had been looking forward to the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">174</a></span> attempt for more than six months. I had to leave @@ -5741,7 +5701,7 @@ the Meije, and then crawled into our now well-known holes. At midnight exactly we were off, and, as we had much to carry, we took our porters with us as far as the bottom of the buttress, where we waited for -daylight. At last the Tête du Replat opposite to +daylight. At last the Tête du Replat opposite to us caught the reflection of the light, so, leaving a bottle of champagne for our return, as a reward of victory or consolation for defeat, we started at 3.15, @@ -5751,7 +5711,7 @@ and though we altered the word at once, they left us with grave faces, old Lagier mournfully shaking his head. Gardiner took the lead again, and at 4.45 we once more stood beside the stone-man, finding our -<i>câche</i> of provisions all safe. Here we rearranged our +<i>câche</i> of provisions all safe. Here we rearranged our <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">175</a></span> luggage. Both the others took heavy loads; Gardiner the knapsack, Lawrence the 200 feet of spare @@ -5761,7 +5721,7 @@ to lead.</p> <p>"We got under weigh at 5.15, and soon clambered up the remaining part of the buttress, and reached -the bottom of the great wall, the Glacier Carré being +the bottom of the great wall, the Glacier Carré being about 700 feet above us, and some distance to our right. We knew that from here a level traverse had to be made until nearly under the glacier before it @@ -5782,7 +5742,7 @@ and when half-way across the face we were able to turn slightly upwards, and at 6.30 were near the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">176</a></span> spot where later in the day the icicles from the -extreme western end of the Glacier Carré fall. It is +extreme western end of the Glacier Carré fall. It is not necessary to go right into the line of fire, and in coming back we kept even farther away than on the ascent.</p> @@ -5791,7 +5751,7 @@ ascent.</p> now came the great question of the climb; how to get up the 600 feet of rock wall above us. To our right it rose in one sheer face, the icicles from the -Glacier Carré, fringing the top; to our left the rocks, +Glacier Carré, fringing the top; to our left the rocks, though not so steep, were very smooth, and at the top, especially to the right, near the glacier, they became precipitous. A little above us a bridge @@ -5850,7 +5810,7 @@ foot finding anything to rest on. I looked down, told them how it was, and came down to rest.</p> <p>"For about a minute nothing was said; all our -faces turned towards the Glacier Carré, now only about +faces turned towards the Glacier Carré, now only about 60 feet above us. We all felt it would have been hard indeed to turn back, yet it was not a pleasant place, and we could not see what was again above. @@ -5860,7 +5820,7 @@ jerk, just enough to miss the heads of the men behind, sent them clear into the air; they never touched anything for a long time after leaving the hand, and disappeared with a disagreeable -hum on to the Glacier des Etançons, 1800 feet +hum on to the Glacier des Etançons, 1800 feet below. We looked and tried on both sides, but it was useless, so we went at it again. After the fourth or fifth attempt I managed to get up about 10 feet, @@ -5873,7 +5833,7 @@ up; one place actually overhung—fortunately there was plenty of hold, and we slung ourselves up it! From this point the rocks became rather easier, and at 9.30 we reached a small sloping shelf of rock, -about 20 yards to the west of the Glacier Carré and +about 20 yards to the west of the Glacier Carré and on the top of the great rock wall. Stopping here for a short time to get cool, and to let one of the party down to get the axes, which had been tied to a rope @@ -5881,7 +5841,7 @@ and had caught in a crevice in the rock, we changed leaders, and crossing some shelving rocks, climbed up a gully, or cleft, filled with icicles, and reached the platform of rock at the south-west end of the Glacier -Carré at 10.15 <span class="s08">A.M.</span></p> +Carré at 10.15 <span class="s08">A.M.</span></p> <p>"The platform we had reached can only be called one by comparison; it is rather smooth, and slopes @@ -5903,7 +5863,7 @@ overhanging top, the rocks of which, cutting across the face, form a triangular corner. It is the spot where Gaspard lost so much time looking for the way on the first ascent. We knew that the -arête had here to be crossed, and the northern face +arête had here to be crossed, and the northern face on the other side taken to.</p> <p>"Almost before I got my head over the crest came @@ -5913,7 +5873,7 @@ others came up, Gardiner fixed himself and let us down to the full extent of the rope. The whole northern face, as far as we could see, looked terribly icy; but as there was no other way of regaining the -arête higher up without going on to it, we told him to +arête higher up without going on to it, we told him to come down after us.</p> <p>"Turning to the right as soon as possible, we had @@ -5924,13 +5884,13 @@ of ice for a yard before we could find any hold at all and sometimes only the left hand could be spared for cutting. After about 50 yards of this work we were able to turn upwards, and with great difficulty -wriggled up the slippery rocks leading to the arête; +wriggled up the slippery rocks leading to the arête; rather disgusted to find the north face so difficult—owing, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">181</a></span> perhaps, to the lateness of the season.</p> -<p>"It was our last difficulty, for the arête, though +<p>"It was our last difficulty, for the arête, though narrow, gives good hand and foot-hold, and we pressed eagerly onwards. In a few minutes it became more level, and there, sure enough, were the @@ -5940,7 +5900,7 @@ rush, and at 2.25 we stood on the highest point of the Meije.</p> <p>"Knowing that it would be useless for us to try -and descend further than the Glacier Carré that +and descend further than the Glacier Carré that day, and as it was pleasanter on the top than there, we went in for a long halt. Untying the rope—for the top is broad enough to be safe—we @@ -5962,7 +5922,7 @@ southern cairn, we sat down to smoke and enjoy the view, which the fact of the mountain standing on the outside of the group, the tremendous depth to which the eye plunges on each side, the expansive -panorama of the Dauphiné and neighbouring +panorama of the Dauphiné and neighbouring Alps, and the beautiful distant view of the Pennine chain from Mont Blanc to Monte Rosa, combine to make one of the finest in the @@ -5970,18 +5930,18 @@ Alps.</p> <p>"At four o'clock, after an hour and a half on the top, we started downwards, soon arriving at the -spot where it was necessary to leave the arête; +spot where it was necessary to leave the arête; however, before doing so, we went along it to where it was cut off, to see if we could let ourselves straight down into the gap, and so avoid the detour by the northern face, but it was impracticable; so, putting the middle of the spare rope round a projecting -rock on the arête, we let ourselves down +rock on the arête, we let ourselves down to where we had gone along on the level, pulling the rope down after us; then regaining the gap by the morning's route, we crossed it, and leisurely descended the south-western face to the Glacier -Carré, filling our now empty wine tin with water +Carré, filling our now empty wine tin with water on the way down. We reached the glacier at 6.30. In skirting the base of the Pic du Glacier we found <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">183</a></span> @@ -6027,7 +5987,7 @@ failure; so we looked at the scene instead.</p> we lay, making everything look very beautiful. We could see the snow just in front of us, and then, far away through the frosty air all the mountains -on the other side of the Vallon des Etançons, +on the other side of the Vallon des Etançons, with the silver-grey peak of the Ecrins behind, its icy ridges standing out sharply against the clear sky; and deep down in the dark valley below was the @@ -6119,7 +6079,7 @@ afterwards they did not like it. I certainly did not. The upper part was all right; but lower down the rocks were so steep that if I put much weight on the rope it pulled me off them, and gave a tendency to -swing over towards the Glacier Carré, which, as only +swing over towards the Glacier Carré, which, as only one hand was left for climbing with, was rather difficult to resist. I remember very well sitting on a <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">188</a></span> @@ -6198,7 +6158,7 @@ for the last three hours we had been on the look-out for falling ice. Some had already shot over our heads, sending showers of splinters on to us, and one piece as big as one's fist had come rather closer -than was pleasant. On our left, the Glacier Carré +than was pleasant. On our left, the Glacier Carré kept up a regular fire of it, the ice following with tremendous noise on to the rocks below. Every time it gave us a start, as we could not always see at @@ -6273,12 +6233,12 @@ down it on the same day. When every step of the way became well known, of course much quicker <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">193</a></span> times were possible, and when, on 16th September -1892, I went up it with the famous Dauphiné guide, +1892, I went up it with the famous Dauphiné guide, Maximin Gaspard, and Roman Imboden (the latter aged twenty-three, and perhaps the finest rock climber in Switzerland), we had all in our favour. There was neither ice nor snow on the rocks, and -no icicles hung from the Glacier Carré, while the +no icicles hung from the Glacier Carré, while the weather was still and cloudless. We slept at the bottom of the buttress—just at the spot where Mr Pilkington met his porter—and from here were @@ -6286,7 +6246,7 @@ exactly four hours (including a halt of one hour) reaching the top of the Meije.</p> <p>It is now the fashion to cross the Meije from La -Bérarde to La Grave, the descent on the other side +Bérarde to La Grave, the descent on the other side being also extremely hard. For a couple of hours after leaving the summit a narrow ridge is traversed with several formidable gaps in it. @@ -6560,7 +6520,7 @@ times will give an idea of the changed state of the mountain, for, leaving the Mortel Hut at 12.30 midnight, we were on the top of the Scerscen at 8 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> At nine we set off, and taking things leisurely, -with halts for food, we passed along the famous arête, +with halts for food, we passed along the famous arête, and, thanks to Roman's choice of route, met with not one really hard step. At 2.30 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> we found ourselves on the top of Piz Bernina, and had a chat with @@ -6718,7 +6678,7 @@ Leslie Stephen. Perhaps the most delightful passages in his <i>Playground of Europe</i> are those in which he tells how, in company with the Messrs Mathews, he managed to get up the great wall of -ice between the Mönch and the Eiger, known as the +ice between the Mönch and the Eiger, known as the Eigerjoch. The Messrs Mathews had with them two Chamonix guides, while Mr Leslie Stephen had engaged the gigantic Oberlander Ulrich Lauener. In @@ -6748,15 +6708,15 @@ began the first little dispute between Oberland and Chamouni. The Chamouni men proposed a direct assault on the network of crevasses above us. Lauener said that we ought to turn them by crossing -to the south-west side, immediately below the Mönch. +to the south-west side, immediately below the Mönch. My friends and their guides forming a majority, and seeming to have little respect for the arguments urged by the minority, we gave in and followed them, with many muttered remarks from Lauener. We soon found ourselves performing a series of manœuvres like those required for the ascent of -the Col du Géant. At times we were lying flat in -little gutters on the faces of the <i>séracs</i>, worming +the Col du Géant. At times we were lying flat in +little gutters on the faces of the <i>séracs</i>, worming <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">210</a></span> ourselves along like boa-constrictors. At the next moment we were balancing ourselves on a knife-edge @@ -6789,15 +6749,15 @@ piece of advice to Lauener, he immediately selected the most dangerous looking pinnacle in sight, and mounting to the top of it sent forth a series of screams, loud enough, I should have thought, to -bring down the top of the Mönch. They failed, -however, to dislodge any <i>séracs</i>, and Lauener, going +bring down the top of the Mönch. They failed, +however, to dislodge any <i>séracs</i>, and Lauener, going to the front, called to us to follow him. By this time we were all glad to follow any one who was confident enough to lead. Turning to our right, we crossed the glacier in a direction parallel to the deep crevasses, and therefore unobstructed by any serious obstacles, till we found ourselves immediately beneath the -great cliffs of the Mönch. Our prospects changed at +great cliffs of the Mönch. Our prospects changed at once. A great fold in the glacier produces a kind of diagonal pathway, stretching upwards from the point where we stood towards the rocks of the Eiger—not @@ -6820,7 +6780,7 @@ looking up to the snow-fields now close above us, an obstacle appeared which made us think that all our previous labours had been in vain. From side to side of the glacier a vast <i>chevaux de frise</i> of blue ice-pinnacles -struck up through the white layers of <i>névé</i> +struck up through the white layers of <i>névé</i> formed by the first plunge of the glacier down its waterfall of ice. Some of them rose in fantastic shapes—huge blocks balanced on narrow footstalks, @@ -6835,13 +6795,13 @@ strategical movement. One plan was to climb the lower rocks of the Eiger; but, after a moment's hesitation, we fortunately followed Lauener towards the other side of the glacier, where a small gap between -the <i>séracs</i> and the lower slopes of the Mönch seemed +the <i>séracs</i> and the lower slopes of the Mönch seemed to be the entrance to a ravine that might lead us upwards. Such it turned out to be. Instead of the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">213</a></span> rough footing in which we had hitherto been unwillingly restricted, we found ourselves ascending a -narrow gorge, with the giant cliffs of the Mönch on +narrow gorge, with the giant cliffs of the Mönch on our right, and the toppling ice-pinnacles on our left. A beautifully even surface of snow, scarcely marked by a single crevasse, lay beneath our feet. We pressed @@ -6850,8 +6810,8 @@ steeply upwards between the rocks and the ice, expecting at every moment to see it thin out, or break off at some impassable crevasse. It was, I presume, formed by the sliding of avalanches from -the slopes of the Mönch. At any rate, to our delight, -it led us gradually round the barrier of <i>séracs</i>, till in +the slopes of the Mönch. At any rate, to our delight, +it led us gradually round the barrier of <i>séracs</i>, till in a few minutes we found ourselves on the highest plateau of the glacier, the crevasses fairly beaten, and a level plain of snow stretching from our feet to the @@ -6870,7 +6830,7 @@ some great cathedral. <p>"To reach our pass, we had the choice either of at once attacking the long steep slopes which led -directly to the shoulder of the Mönch, or of first +directly to the shoulder of the Mönch, or of first climbing the gentle slope near the Eiger, and then forcing our way along the backbone of the ridge. We resolved to try the last plan first.</p> @@ -6881,14 +6841,14 @@ the ascent. After a short climb of no great difficulty, merely pausing to chip a few steps out of the hard crust of snow, we successively stepped safely on to the top of the ridge. As each of my predecessors did -so, I observed that he first looked along the arête, +so, I observed that he first looked along the arête, then down the cliffs before him, and then turned with a very blank expression of face to his neighbour. From our feet the bare cliffs sank down, covered with loose rocks, but too steep to hold more than patches of snow, and presenting right dangerous climbing for many hundred feet towards the Grindelwald glaciers. -The arête offered a prospect not much better: a long +The arête offered a prospect not much better: a long ridge of snow, sharp as the blade of a knife, was playfully alternated with great rocky teeth, striking up through their icy covering, like the edge of @@ -6902,7 +6862,7 @@ volley of unreportable language from the Chamouni guides. It was liable, amongst other things, to the trifling objection that it would take us just the way we did not want to go. The Chamouni men now -proposed that we should follow the arête. This was +proposed that we should follow the arête. This was disposed of by Lauener's objection that it would take at least six hours. We should have had to cut steps down the slope and up again round each of the rocky @@ -6911,7 +6871,7 @@ of time was very probably correct. Finally, we unanimously resolved upon the only course open to us—to descend once more into our little valley, and thence to cut our way straight up the long slopes -to the shoulder of the Mönch.</p> +to the shoulder of the Mönch.</p> <p>"Considerably disappointed at this unexpected check, we retired to the foot of the slopes, feeling @@ -6960,12 +6920,12 @@ and interest made the time pass quickly. I was in constant suspense lest Lauener should pronounce for a retreat, which would have been not merely humiliating, but not improbably dangerous, -amidst the crumbling <i>séracs</i> in the afternoon sun. I +amidst the crumbling <i>séracs</i> in the afternoon sun. I listened with some amusement to the low moanings of little Charlet, who was apparently bewailing his position to Croz, and being heartless chaffed in return. One or two measurements with a clinometer -of Mathews' gave inclinations of 51° or 52°, and the +of Mathews' gave inclinations of 51° or 52°, and the slope was perhaps occasionally a little more.</p> <div class="figcenter"><a name="illo216" id="illo216"></a> @@ -7032,7 +6992,7 @@ however, in avoiding their example, and a staircase of about one hundred steps brought us to the top of the ridge, but at a point still at some distance from the pass. It was necessary to turn along -the arête towards the Mönch. We were preparing +the arête towards the Mönch. We were preparing to do this by keeping on the snow-ridge, when Lauener, jumping down about 6 feet on the side opposite to that by which we had ascended, lighted @@ -7051,7 +7011,7 @@ Glacier rose towards our pass, and at last we found ourselves at the edge of a little mound of snow, through which a few plunging steps brought us, just at six o'clock, to the long-desired shoulder of the -Mönch.</p> +Mönch.</p> <p>"I cannot describe the pleasure with which we stepped at last on to the little saddle of snow, and @@ -7104,7 +7064,7 @@ the Montanvert, during the tourists' season, this period extended over the whole twenty-four hours. It was necessary, therefore, in order that he might enjoy a proper physiological period of rest, for him to -remain in a dozing state—a sort of æstival hybernation—for +remain in a dozing state—a sort of æstival hybernation—for the whole time, which in fact he did; or else he was by nature a very dull person, and had actually a very restricted stock of ideas. @@ -7116,7 +7076,7 @@ mind with his usual remarks. Like other natives of the valley he had but two ideas of 'extraordinary' expeditions. 'Monsieur is going to the Jardin?' he remarked. 'No, monsieur isn't.' 'Then, beyond a -doubt, monsieur will cross the Col du Géant?' he +doubt, monsieur will cross the Col du Géant?' he said, playing his trump card. 'No, monsieur will not.' 'Pardon—where does monsieur expect to go?' 'On the present occasion we go to try the Aiguille du @@ -7335,7 +7295,7 @@ stones. Nor were our difficulties at an end when we reached the foot of the rocks, for the head of the glacier had fallen away from the main mass of the mountain, even as an ill-constructed bow-window -occasionally dissociates itself from the façade of a +occasionally dissociates itself from the façade of a jerry-built villa, and some very complicated manœuvring was necessary in order to reach the snow slopes. It was not till late in the evening that we reached @@ -7428,7 +7388,7 @@ on the roof to encourage, to preside over, and subsequently to profit by, his apprentice's exertions. We adopted much the same principle. Hartley, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">234</a></span> -as the lightest, was cast for the <i>rôle</i> of the <i>jeune +as the lightest, was cast for the <i>rôle</i> of the <i>jeune premier</i>, or boy, while Burgener and I on physical grounds alone filled the part, however unworthily, of the master sweep. As a play not @@ -7487,7 +7447,7 @@ from 20 to 25 feet, then surveyed right and left, up and down, before going any further. The minutes slipped by fast, but I have no doubt now that if we had had time we might have ascended -to the final arête on this occasion. We had often +to the final arête on this occasion. We had often to retrace our steps, and whenever we did so found some slightly different line by which time could have been saved. Though the way was @@ -7801,7 +7761,7 @@ nature of which we were uncertain. A few steps on and Burgener grasped me suddenly by the arm. 'Do you see the great red rock up yonder?' he whispered, hoarse with excitement— 'in ten minutes -we shall be there and on the arête, and then——' Nothing +we shall be there and on the arête, and then——' Nothing could stop us now; but a feverish anxiety to see what lay beyond, to look on the final slope which we knew must be easy, impelled us on, and @@ -7823,7 +7783,7 @@ tapped the rock with his axe, and we seemed somehow to regret that the way in front of us must prove comparatively easy. Our foe had almost yielded, and it appeared something like cruelty to -administer the final <i>coup de grâce</i>. We could already +administer the final <i>coup de grâce</i>. We could already anticipate the half-sad feeling with which we should reach the top itself. It needed but little to make the feeling give way. Some one cried 'Forward,' and @@ -7985,9 +7945,9 @@ which I then cut off, and left behind, as there was enough and to spare. My axe had proved a great <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">254</a></span> nuisance in coming down, and I left it in the tent. -It was not attached to the bâton, but was a separate +It was not attached to the bâton, but was a separate affair—an old navy boarding-axe. While cutting up -the different snow-beds on the ascent, the bâton +the different snow-beds on the ascent, the bâton trailed behind fastened to the rope; and, when climbing, the axe was carried behind, run through the rope tied round my waist, and was sufficiently out of the @@ -8001,7 +7961,7 @@ I paid dearly for the imprudence.</p> <p>"The Col du Lion was passed, and fifty yards more would have placed me on the 'Great Staircase,' down which one can run. But, on arriving at an -angle of the cliffs of the Tête du Lion, while skirting +angle of the cliffs of the Tête du Lion, while skirting the upper edge of the snow which abuts against them, I found that the heat of the two past days had nearly obliterated the steps which had been cut when @@ -8028,14 +7988,14 @@ mere thread of snow lying between two walls of rock, which came to an abrupt termination at the top of a precipice that intervened between it and the glacier. Imagine a funnel cut in half through its length, -placed at an angle of 45° with its point below, +placed at an angle of 45° with its point below, and its concave side uppermost, and you will have a fair idea of the place.</p> <p>"The knapsack brought my head down first, and I pitched into some rocks about a dozen feet below; they caught something and tumbled me off the edge, -head over heels, into the gully; the bâton was +head over heels, into the gully; the bâton was dashed from my hands, and I whirled downwards in a series of bounds, each longer than the last; now over ice, now into rocks; striking my head four or @@ -8049,7 +8009,7 @@ moment, and I fell back on to the snow with motion arrested. My head, fortunately, came the right side up, and a few frantic catches brought me to a halt in the neck of the gully, and on the verge of the -precipice. Bâton, hat, and veil skimmed by and +precipice. Bâton, hat, and veil skimmed by and disappeared, and the crash of the rocks—which I had started—as they fell on to the glacier, told how narrow had been the escape from utter destruction. @@ -8139,17 +8099,17 @@ following is an extract from it:</p> <div class="blockquot"> <p> -"enfin, Monsieur, je regrette beaucoup d'être -engagè avec votre compatriote et de ne pouvoir -vous accompagner dans vos conquetes mais dès -qu'on a donnè sa parole on doit la tenir et être +"enfin, Monsieur, je regrette beaucoup d'être +engagè avec votre compatriote et de ne pouvoir +vous accompagner dans vos conquetes mais dès +qu'on a donnè sa parole on doit la tenir et être homme.</p> <p>"Ainsi, prenez patience pour cette campagne et esperons que plus tard nous nous retrouverons.</p> <p>"En attendant recevez les humbles salutations de -votre tout devoué.</p> +votre tout devoué.</p> <p class="left45"> "<span class="smcap">Croz Michel-Auguste.</span>"</p> @@ -8203,7 +8163,7 @@ somewhat to their right to avoid a nearly vertical wall of rock, where now hangs a chain.</p> <p class="caption"> -<i>From a Photograph by the late W. F. Donkin.</i> +<i>From a Photograph by the late W. F. Donkin.</i> </p> </div> @@ -8254,7 +8214,7 @@ them as dots far down. They were 1250 feet below, yet they heard the cries of the successful party on the top, and knew that victory was not for them. Still a measure of success awaited them too, for the next -day the bold Carrel, with J. B. Bich, in his turn +day the bold Carrel, with J. B. Bich, in his turn reached the summit by the far more difficult route on the side of his native valley. Carrel was the one man who had always believed that the Matterhorn @@ -8434,7 +8394,7 @@ which came on during the descent. Two Dutch gentlemen, led by Moser and Peter Taugwald, regained the lower hut at an advanced hour of the night; but Monsieur A. de Falkner and his -son (with J. P. and Daniel Maquignaz, and Angelo +son (with J. P. and Daniel Maquignaz, and Angelo Ferrari, of Pinzolo), and Messrs John Davies and Frederick Charles Borckhardt (with Fridolin Kronig and Peter Aufdemblatten), were forced to @@ -8760,7 +8720,7 @@ and fatigue, upon his own side of his own mountain, almost within sight of his own home. He started on <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">281</a></span> the 23rd of August from Breuil, with an Italian -gentleman and Charles Gorret (brother of the Abbé +gentleman and Charles Gorret (brother of the Abbé Gorret), with the intention of crossing the Matterhorn in one day. The weather at the time of their departure was the very best, and it changed in the @@ -8790,7 +8750,7 @@ from this the following relation is condensed:</p> <p>"We started for the Cervin at 2.15 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> on the 23rd, in splendid weather, with the intention of descending -the same night to the hut at the Hörnli on the Swiss +the same night to the hut at the Hörnli on the Swiss side. We proceeded pretty well, but the glaze of ice on the rocks near the Col du Lion retarded our march somewhat, and when we arrived at the hut @@ -8807,7 +8767,7 @@ the hut he lay down and slept profoundly for two hours, and awoke much restored. In the meantime the weather was rapidly changing. Storm clouds coming from the direction of Mont Blanc hung over -the Dent d'Hérens, but we regarded them as transitory, +the Dent d'Hérens, but we regarded them as transitory, and trusted to the north wind, which was still continuing to blow. Meanwhile, three of the Maquignazs and Edward Bich, whom we found at the hut, @@ -8844,7 +8804,7 @@ very bad) it was unanimously settled to make a retreat.</p> <p>"At 9 <span class="s08">A.M.</span> we left the hut. I will not speak of the -difficulties and dangers in descending the <i>arête</i> to the +difficulties and dangers in descending the <i>arête</i> to the Col du Lion, which we reached at 2.30 <span class="s08">P.M.</span> The ropes were half frozen, the rocks were covered with a glaze of ice, and fresh snow hid all points of support. @@ -8970,7 +8930,7 @@ DISTRESS SIGNALS</h2> <p>I cannot bring this book to a more fitting end than by quoting the closing words of a -famous article in <i>The Alpine Journal</i> by Mr C. E. +famous article in <i>The Alpine Journal</i> by Mr C. E. Mathews entitled "The Alpine Obituary." It was written twenty years ago, but every season it becomes if possible more true. May all who go @@ -9054,7 +9014,7 @@ of the code. <td class="def">A summer pasture.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><span class="smcap">Arête</span></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Arête</span></td> <td class="def">The crest of a ridge. Sometimes spoken of as a knife-edge, if very narrow.</td> </tr> @@ -9074,7 +9034,7 @@ which has broken away from it.</td> </tr> <tr> <td><span class="smcap">Grat</span></td> -<td class="def">The same as <i>arête</i>.</td> +<td class="def">The same as <i>arête</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> <td><span class="smcap">Joch</span></td> @@ -9082,7 +9042,7 @@ which has broken away from it.</td> </tr> <tr> <td><span class="smcap">Kamm</span></td> -<td class="def">The same as <i>arête</i>.</td> +<td class="def">The same as <i>arête</i>.</td> </tr> <tr> <td><span class="smcap">Moraine</span></td> @@ -9093,7 +9053,7 @@ which has broken away from it.</td> <td class="def">See chapter on glaciers, <a href="#Page_7">page 7</a>.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><span class="smcap">Névé</span></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Névé</span></td> <td class="def">See chapter on glaciers, <a href="#Page_7">page 7</a>.</td> </tr> <tr> @@ -9105,7 +9065,7 @@ which has broken away from it.</td> <td class="def">A crevasse.</td> </tr> <tr> -<td><span class="smcap">Sérac</span></td> +<td><span class="smcap">Sérac</span></td> <td class="def">A cube of ice, formed by intersecting crevasses where a glacier is very steep. Called thus after a sort of Chamonix @@ -9148,13 +9108,13 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p>Balmat, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></p> -<p>Barnes, Mr G. S., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></p> +<p>Barnes, Mr G. S., <a href="#Page_32">32</a></p> <p>Bean, Mr, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></p> <p>Bennen, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a></p> -<p>Bich, J. B., <a href="#Page_262">262</a></p> +<p>Bich, J. B., <a href="#Page_262">262</a></p> <p>Bionnassay, Aiguille de, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></p> @@ -9168,7 +9128,7 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p>Borchart, Dr, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></p> -<p>Borckhardt, F. C., <a href="#Page_269">269</a></p> +<p>Borckhardt, F. C., <a href="#Page_269">269</a></p> <p>Bossons, Glacier des, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></p> @@ -9182,12 +9142,12 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p class="p2"><span class="i6">C</span></p> -<p>Carré, Glacier, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></p> +<p>Carré, Glacier, <a href="#Page_172">172</a></p> -<p>Carrel, J. A., <a href="#Page_252">252</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, +<p>Carrel, J. A., <a href="#Page_252">252</a>, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, death of, <a href="#Page_280">280</a></p> -<p>Coolidge, Rev. W. A. B., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></p> +<p>Coolidge, Rev. W. A. B., <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></p> <p>Couttet, Sylvain, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></p> @@ -9215,7 +9175,7 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p>Falkner, Monsieur de, <a href="#Page_269">269</a></p> -<p>Föhn Wind, Note on the, <a href="#Page_80">80</a> +<p>Föhn Wind, Note on the, <a href="#Page_80">80</a> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">298</a></span></p> <p class="p2"><span class="i6">G</span></p> @@ -9250,7 +9210,7 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p>Haut-de-Cry, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></p> -<p>Hinchliff, Mr T. W., <a href="#Page_122">122</a></p> +<p>Hinchliff, Mr T. W., <a href="#Page_122">122</a></p> <p>Hudson, Rev. C., <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a></p> @@ -9288,13 +9248,13 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p>Mammoth, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></p> -<p>Maquignaz, J. P. and D., <a href="#Page_269">269</a></p> +<p>Maquignaz, J. P. and D., <a href="#Page_269">269</a></p> <p>Martin, Jean, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></p> <p>Mather, Mr, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></p> -<p>Mathews, Mr C. E., <a href="#Page_289">289</a></p> +<p>Mathews, Mr C. E., <a href="#Page_289">289</a></p> <p>Mathews, Messrs, <a href="#Page_208">208</a></p> @@ -9324,7 +9284,7 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p class="p2"><span class="i6">P</span></p> -<p>Palü, Piz, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></p> +<p>Palü, Piz, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a></p> <p>Paradis, Maria, <a href="#Page_203">203</a></p> @@ -9357,7 +9317,7 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p class="p2"><span class="i6">S</span></p> -<p>Saas, Prättigau, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></p> +<p>Saas, Prättigau, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></p> <p>Schallihorn, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></p> @@ -9383,7 +9343,7 @@ cheese, which it is said to resemble.</td> <p>Trift Pass, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></p> -<p>Tuckett, Mr F. F., <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></p> +<p>Tuckett, Mr F. F., <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></p> <p class="p2"><span class="i6">W</span></p> @@ -9414,24 +9374,24 @@ The Edinburgh Press<br /> <p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> "We are all lost."</p> -<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The exact origin of the <i>föhn</i> wind is still disputed. It is +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The exact origin of the <i>föhn</i> wind is still disputed. It is thought to have no connection with the sirocco, a wind which in Europe blows always from the south, bears with it sometimes particles of sand, and is impregnated with damp from its -passage over the Mediterranean. The <i>föhn</i> blows from any +passage over the Mediterranean. The <i>föhn</i> blows from any quarter (though usually from the south), and is a dry, warm wind, which causes the snow to melt rapidly. In German Switzerland it is called the <i>Schneefresser</i>, or Snow Devourer, -and it has been said that if no <i>föhn</i> visited the Alps, Switzerland +and it has been said that if no <i>föhn</i> visited the Alps, Switzerland would still be in the glacial period.</p> -<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <i>The Annals of Mont Blanc</i>, by C. E. Mathews.</p> +<p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> <i>The Annals of Mont Blanc</i>, by C. E. Mathews.</p> <p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The responsibility did not rest with Croz. His part was to advise, but not to direct.</p> <p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> The summit of the pass has been marked on Dufour's map, -3793 mètres, or 12,444 feet.</p> +3793 mètres, or 12,444 feet.</p> <p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> These snow-cornices are common on the crests of high mountain ridges, and it is always prudent (just before arriving @@ -9445,8 +9405,8 @@ sometimes take extravagant forms.</p> <p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The upper part of the southern side of the Col de Pilatte, and the small glaciers spoken of on <a href="#Page_211">p. 211</a>, can be seen from -the high road leading from Briançon to Mont Dauphin, between -the 12th and 13th kilomètre stones (from Briançon).</p> +the high road leading from Briançon to Mont Dauphin, between +the 12th and 13th kilomètre stones (from Briançon).</p> <p class="footnote"><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> In the early days of mountaineering it was the custom to pass the rope through a ring or spring-hook attached to a @@ -9526,7 +9486,7 @@ starting by the violence of the tempest.</p> permitted to quote: "I don't try to tell you of my intense pain for Carrel's death. He fell after having saved me, and no guide could have done more than he did." Charles Gorret, -through his brother the Abbé, wrote to me that he entirely +through his brother the Abbé, wrote to me that he entirely endorsed what had been said by Signor Sinigaglia, and added, "We would have given our own lives to have saved his."</p> @@ -9538,384 +9498,6 @@ expired at the expense of Signor Sinigaglia, who went in person, along with Charles Gorret, to superintend its erection.</p> </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of True Tales of Mountain Adventures, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 42758-h.htm or 42758-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/2/7/5/42758/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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