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diff --git a/42893.txt b/42893.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 0d5944f..0000000 --- a/42893.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4141 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Guardians of the Columbia, by John H. -(John Harvey) Williams - - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - - - - -Title: The Guardians of the Columbia - Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens - - -Author: John H. (John Harvey) Williams - - - -Release Date: June 8, 2013 [eBook #42893] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) - - -***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA*** - - -E-text prepared by David Garcia, Bryan Ness, Emmy, and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images -generously made available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) - - - -Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file - which includes the more than 200 original illustrations. - See 42893-h.htm or 42893-h.zip: - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42893/42893-h/42893-h.htm) - or - (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42893/42893-h.zip) - - - Images of the original pages are available through - Internet Archive. See - https://archive.org/details/guardiansofcolu00willrich - - -Transcriber's note: - - Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_). - - Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=). - - - - - -THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA - - * * * * * - -THE MOUNTAIN - - - I hold above a careless land - The menace of the skies; - Within the hollow of my hand - The sleeping tempest lies. - Mine are the promise of the morn, - The triumph of the day; - And parting sunset's beams forlorn - Upon my heights delay. - --Edward Sydney Tylee - - * * * * * - - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT DR. U. M. LAUMAN - -Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mt. St. Helens. - - "Night's candles are burnt out, and jocund day - Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops." Shakespeare.] - - -THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA - -Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens - -by - -JOHN H. WILLIAMS - -Author of "The Mountain That Was 'God'" - - - _And mountains that like giants stand - To sentinel enchanted land._ - SCOTT: "The Lady of the Lake." - - -With More Than Two Hundred Illustrations -Including Eight in Colors - - - - - - - -Tacoma -John H. Williams -1912 - - - - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Climbing the last steep slope on Mount Hood, from Cooper's Spur, with -ropes anchored on summit.] - - Copyright, 1912, by John H. Williams - - - -[Illustration: Willamette River at Portland, with ships loading wheat -and lumber for foreign ports.] - - - - -FOREWORD - - -In offering this second volume of a proposed series on Western mountain -scenery, I am fortunate in having a subject as unhackneyed as was that -of "The Mountain that Was 'God.'" The Columbia River has been described -in many publications about the Northwest, but the three fine snow-peaks -guarding its great canyon have received scant attention, and that mainly -from periodicals of local circulation. - -These peaks are vitally a part of the vast Cascade-Columbia scene to -which they give a climax. Hence the story here told by text and picture -has necessarily included the stage upon which they were built up. And -since the great forests of this mountain and river district are a factor -of its beauty as well as its wealth, I am glad to be able to present a -brief chapter about them from the competent hand of Mr. H. D. Langille, -formerly of the United States forest service. A short bibliography, with -notes on transportation routes, hotels, guides and other matters of -interest to travelers and students, will be found at the end. - -Accuracy has been my first aim. I have tried to avoid the exaggeration -employed in much current writing for the supposed edification of -tourists. It has seemed to me that simply and briefly to tell the truth -about the fascinating Columbia country would be the best service I could -render to those who love its splendid mountains and its noble river. A -mass of books, government documents and scientific essays has been -examined. This literature is more or less contradictory, and as I cannot -hope to have avoided all errors, I shall be grateful for any correction -of my text. - -In choosing the illustrations, I have sought to show the individuality -of each peak. Mountains, like men, wear their history on their -faces,--none more so than Hood's sharp and finely scarred pyramid; or -Adams, with its wide, truncated dome and deeply carved slopes; or St. -Helens, newest of all our extinct volcanoes--if, indeed, it be -extinct,--and least marred by the ice, its cone as perfect as -Fujiyama's. Each has its own wonderful story to tell of ancient and -often recent vulcanism. Let me again suggest that readers who would get -the full value of the more comprehensive illustrations will find a -reading glass very useful. - -Thanks are due to many helpers. More than fifty photographers, -professional and amateur, are named in the table of illustrations. -Without their co-operation the book would have been impossible. I am -also indebted for valued information and assistance to the librarians at -the Portland and Tacoma public libraries, the officers and members of -the several mountaineering clubs in Portland, and the passenger -departments of the railways reaching that city; to Prof. Harry Fielding -Reid, the eminent geologist of Johns Hopkins University; Fred G. -Plummer, geographer of the United States forest service; Dr. George Otis -Smith, director of the United States geological survey; Judge Harrington -Putnam, of New York, president of the American Alpine Club; Messrs. -Rodney L. Glisan, William M. Ladd, H. O. Stabler, T. H. Sherrard, Judge -W. B. Gilbert, H. L. Pittock, George H. Himes, John Gill, C. E. Rusk, -and others in Portland and elsewhere. - -The West has much besides magnificent scenery to give those who visit -it. Here have been played, upon a grander stage, the closing acts in the -great drama of state-building which opened three hundred years ago on -the Atlantic Coast. The setting has powerfully moulded the history, and -we must know one if we would understand the other. Europe, of course, -offers to the American student of culture and the arts something which -travel here at home cannot supply. But every influence that brings the -different sections of the United States into closer touch and fuller -sympathy makes for patriotism and increased national strength. - -This, rather than regret for the two hundred millions of dollars which -our tourists spend abroad each year, is the true basis of the "See -America First" movement. According to his capacity, the tourist commonly -gets value for his money, whether traveling in Europe or America. But -Eastern ignorance of the West is costing the country more than the drain -of tourist money. - -This volume is presented, therefore, as a call to better appreciation of -the splendor and worth of our own land. Its publication will be -justified if it is found to merit in some degree the commendation given -its predecessor by Prof. W. D. Lyman, of Whitman College, whose -delightful book on the Columbia has been consulted and whose personal -advice has been of great value throughout my work. "I wish to express -the conviction," writes Prof. Lyman, "that you have done an inestimable -service to all who love beauty, and who stand for those higher things -among our possessions that cannot be measured in money, but which have -an untold bearing upon the finer sensibilities of a nation." - -Tacoma, June 15, 1912. - -[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from south slope of Mount St. Helens, -near the summit, showing the Cascade ranges below. Note the great burn -in the forest cover of the ridges. "Steamboat Mountain" is seen in the -distance beyond. Elevation of camera, nearly 9,000 feet.] - - - - -[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia at Lyle, Washington.] - - - - -CONTENTS - - - I. THE RIVER. - - Dawn at Cloud Cap Inn--The geological dawn--Cascade-Sierra - uptilt--Rise of the snow-peaks--An age of vulcanism--Origin - of the great Columbia gorge--Dawn in Indian legend--The - "Bridge of the Gods"--Victory of Young Chinook--Dawn of - modern history--The pioneers and the state builders 15 - - - II. THE MOUNTAINS. - - Portland's snowy sentinels--Ruskin on the mountains--Cascades - vs. Alps--Mount Hood and its retreating glaciers--The - Mazamas--A shattered crater--Mount Adams--Lava and ice - caves--Mount St. Helens--The struggle of the forest on the - lava beds--Adventures of the climbers--The Mazamas in - peril--An heroic rescue 57 - - - III. THE FORESTS, by HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE. - - Outposts at timber line--The alpine parks--Zone of the great - trees--Douglas fir--From snow-line to ocean beach--Conservation - and reforestation 123 - - - NOTES 140 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS - - -The * indicates engravings from copyrighted photographs. See notice -under the illustration. - -THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. - - Title Photographer Page - *Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mount - St. Helens Dr. U. M. Lauman Frontispiece - *St. Peter's Dome, with the Columbia and - Mount Adams G. M. Weister 20 - *Nightfall on the Columbia Kiser Photo Co. 37 - *Columbia River and Mount Hood, from White - Salmon, Washington Kiser Photo Co. 56 - *Mount Hood, with crevasses of Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 73 - *Ice Castle and crevasse, Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 92 - *Columbia River and Mount Adams, from Hood - River, Oregon Benj. A. Gifford 109 - An Island of Color--Rhododendrons and Squaw - Grass Asahel Curtis 127 - - -ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. - - Title Photographer Page - - *Climbing to summit of Mount Hood from Cooper - Spur G. M. Weister 6 - Willamette River and Portland Harbor G. M. Weister 7 - Mount Adams, from south slope of Mount St. - Helens G. M. Weister 8 - Columbia River at Lyle William R. King 9 - Mount Hood, seen from the Columbia at - Vancouver L. C. Henrichsen 14 - Trout Lake and Mount Adams Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 15 - Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia, - with railway bridge C. S. Reeves 15 - *View up the Columbia, opposite Astoria G. M. Weister 16 - Astoria in 1813 From an old print 16 - *View north from Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 17 - Columbia Slough, near mouth of the - Willamette George F. Holman 18 - *Cape Horn Kiser Photo Co. 19 - Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough L. C. Henrichsen 21 - *Campfire of Yakima Indians at Astoria - Centennial Frank Woodfield 21 - Sunset at mouth of the Columbia Frank Woodfield 22 - Portland, the Willamette, and Mounts - Hood, Adams and St. Helens Angelus Photo Co. 22 - "The Coming of the White Man" L. C. Henrichsen 23 - "Sacajawea" G. M. Weister 23 - Sunset on Vancouver Lake Jas. Waggener, Jr. 24 - Fort Vancouver in 1852 From an old lithograph 24 - *Rooster Rock G. M. Weister 25 - Seining for Salmon on the lower Columbia Frank Woodfield 25 - *The Columbia near Butler, looking - across to Multnomah Falls Kiser Photo Co. 26 - Captain Som-kin, chief of Indian police Lee Moorehouse 26 - *Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter (2) Kiser Photo Co. 27 - *View from the cliffs at Multnomah Falls Kiser Photo Co. 28 - *The broad Columbia, seen from Lone Rock Kiser Photo Co. 29 - Castle Rock, seen from Mosquito Island Kiser Photo Co. 29 - *The Columbia opposite Oneonta Gorge and - Horsetail Falls Kiser Photo Co. 30 - An Original American C. C. Hutchins 30 - *View from elevation west of St. Peter's - Dome Kiser Photo Co. 31 - *Oneonta Gorge G. M. Weister 32 - Looking up the Columbia, near Bonneville H. J. Thorne 33 - Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the - Willamette Jas. Waggener, Jr. 33 - *In the Columbia Canyon at Cascade Kiser Photo Co. 34 - *The Cascades of the Columbia G. M. Weister 35 - *Fishwheel below the Cascades, with - Table Mountain G. M. Weister 36 - *Sunrise on the Columbia, from top of - Table Mountain Kiser Photo Co. 36 - Looking down the Columbia below the - Cascades L. J. Hicks 38 - *Wind Mountain and submerged forest G. M. Weister 39 - Steamboat entering Cascades Locks G. M. Weister 39 - Moonlight on the Columbia, with clouds - on Wind Mountain C. S. Reeves 40 - *White Salmon River and its Gorge (2) Kiser Photo Co. 41 - Looking down the Columbia Canyon from - White Salmon, Washington S. C. Reeves 42 - An Oregon Trout Stream L. C. Henrichsen 42 - Looking up the Columbia from Hood - River, Oregon F. C. Howell 43 - *Hood River, fed by the glaciers of - Mount Hood Benj. A. Gifford 43 - A Late Winter Afternoon; the Columbia - from White Salmon C. C. Hutchins 44 - *Memaloose Island G. M. Weister 44 - "Gateway to the Inland Empire;" the - Columbia at Lyle Kiser Photo Co. 45 - "Grant Castle" and Palisades of the - Columbia below The Dalles G. M. Weister 46 - *The Dalles of the Columbia, lower - channel G. M. Weister 47 - Cabbage Rock Lee Moorehouse 47 - A True Fish Story of the Columbia Frank Woodfield 48 - The Zigzag River in Winter T. Brook White 48 - *The Dalles, below Celilo G. M. Weister 49 - The "Witch's Head," an Indian picture rock Lee Moorehouse 50 - Village of Indian tepees, Umatilla Reservation Lee Moorehouse 50 - Mount Adams, seen from Eagle Peak Asahel Curtis 51 - A Clearing in the Forest; Mount Hood from - Sandy, Oregon L. C. Henrichsen 51 - An Indian Madonna and Child Lee Moorehouse 52 - Finished portion of Canal at Celilo Ed. Ledgerwood 52 - *Sentinels of "the Wallula Gateway" G. M. Weister 53 - *Tumwater, the falls of the Columbia at - Celilo Kiser Photo Co. 54 - *Summit of Mount Hood, from west end - of ridge G. M. Weister 55 - North side of Mount Hood, from ridge west - of Cloud Cap Inn George R. Miller 57 - Winter on Mount Hood Rodney L. Glisan 57 - *Watching the Climbers, from Cloud Cap Inn G. M. Weister 58 - Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from - Cooper Spur E. D. Jorgensen 59 - Snout of Eliot glacier Prof. W. D. Lyman 59 - Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper Spur F. W. Freeborn 60 - Cloud Cap Inn George R. Miller 60 - *Portland's White Sentinel, Mount Hood G. M. Weister 61 - *Ice Cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount Hood G. M. Weister 62 - Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot - glacier in Winter Rodney L. Glisan 62 - *Snow-bridge over great crevasse, Eliot - glacier G. M. Weister 63 - *Coasting down east side of Mount Hood, - above Cooper Spur. G. M. Weister 63 - *Mount Hood, from hills south of The - Dalles G. M. Weister 64 - *Mount Hood, from Larch Mountain L. J. Hicks 65 - Butterfly on summit of Mount Hood Shoji Endow 66 - Portland Snow-shoe Club and Club House (2) Rodney L. Glisan 66 - Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater Rock L. J. Hicks 66 - Looking across the head of Eliot glacier Shoji Endow 67 - Mount Hood at night, from Cloud Cap Inn William M. Ladd 67 - Climbing Mount Hood; the rope anchor (2) - George R. Miller and Shoji Endow 68 - North side of Mount Hood, from moraine of - Coe glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 69 - *Looking west on summit, with Mazama - Rock below G. M. Weister 70 - Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama Rock F. W. Freeborn 70 - Mount Hood, from Sandy Canyon L. J. Hicks 71 - Crevasses of Coe glacier (2) Mary C. Voorhees 72 - *Crevasse and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 74 - Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barret Spur - Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 75 - Ice Cascade, south side of Mount Hood Prof. J. N. LeConte 75 - Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of - Mount Hood Elisha Coalman 76 - Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for - the summit A. M. Grilley 76 - Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south - side L. J. Hicks 77 - South side of Mount Hood, from - Tom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge L. E. Anderson 78 - Crag on which above view was taken H. J. Thorne 78 - Part of the "bergschrund" above Crater Rock G. M. Weister 79 - Prof. Reid and party exploring Zigzag glacier Asahel Curtis 79 - Mazamas near Crater Rock (2) Asahel Curtis 80 - Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount Hood E. D. Jorgensen 81 - Mount Hood Lily William L. Finley 81 - Mazama party exploring White River - glacier (2) Asahel Curtis 82 - Newton Clark glacier, seen from Cooper Spur Shoji Endow 83 - Looking from Mount Jefferson to Mount Hood L. J. Hicks 83 - *Shadow of Mount Hood G. M. Weister 84 - Snout of Newton Clark glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 84 - *Mount Hood and Hood River Benj. A. Gifford 85 - Lava Flume near Trout Lake Ray M. Filloon 86 - Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red - Butte Eugene Bradbury 86 - Ice Cave in lava bed near Trout Lake Ray M. Filloon 87 - *Mount Adams, from northeast side of Mount - St. Helens G. M. Weister 88 - Mount Adams, from Trout Creek at Guler L. J. Hicks 89 - Climbers on South Butte Ray M. Filloon 89 - Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from - Guler at 4 a.m. L. J. Hicks 90 - Foraging in the Snow Crissie Cameron 90 - *Steel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount Hood G. M. Weister 91 - Mazamas Climbing Mount Adams Asahel Curtis 93 - Mount Adams from lake, with hotel site above Ed. Hess 93 - Climbing from South Peak to Middle Peak L. J. Hicks 94 - Mount Adams, seen from Happy Valley Asahel Curtis 94 - Mount Adams, from Snow-plow Mountain Ed. Hess 95 - *Wind-whittled Ice near summit of Mount Adams S. C. Smith 95 - Mazama glacier and Hellroaring Canyon (2) William R. King 96 - Nearing the Summit of Mount Adams, south side Shoji Endow 97 - Ice Cascade, above Klickitat glacier Ray M. Filloon 97 - An Upland Park H. O. Stabler 97 - Mount Adams and Klickitat glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 98 - Storm on Klickitat glacier, seen from the - Ridge of Wonders Prof. W. D. Lyman 99 - Snow Cornice and Crevasse, head of - Klickitat glacier (2) H. V. Abel and Ray M. Filloon 100 - Mount Adams, from the Northeast Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 101 - *Mount Adams, from Sunnyside, Washington Asahel Curtis 102 - Crevasse in Lava glacier Eugene Bradbury 102 - North Peak, with the Mountaineers - starting for the summit W. M. Gorham 103 - Snow-bridge over Killing Creek W. H. Gorham 103 - Route up the Cleaver, north side of - Mount Adams Eugene Bradbury 104 - Looking across Adams glacier Carlyle Ellis 104 - "The Mountain that was 'God'" seen from - Mount Adams Asahel Curtis 105 - Northwest slope of Mount Adams Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 106 - Mount Adams from the southwest Prof. W. D. Lyman 107 - Scenes in the Lewis River Canyon (3) Jas. Waggener, Jr. 108 - *Mount Adams from Trout Lake Kiser Photo Co. 110 - Scenes on Lava Bed, south of Mount St. - Helens (3) Jas. Waggener, Jr. 111 - Lava Flume, south of Mount St. Helens Jas. Waggener, Jr. 112 - Entrance to Lava Flume Rodney L. Glisan 112 - Mount St. Helens, seen from Portland L. C. Henrichsen 113 - *Mount St. Helens, from Chelatchie Prairie - Jas. Waggener, Jr. 114 - Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin Buttes Ray M. Filloon 115 - Canyons of South Toutle River U. S. Forest Service 116 - Lower Toutle Canyon Jas. Waggener, Jr. 116 - Northeast side of Mount St. Helens Dr. U. M. Lauman 117 - Mazamas on summit of Mt. St. Helens - shortly before sunset Marion Randall Parsons 117 - Mount St. Helens in Winter Dr. U. M. Lauman 118 - Mount St. Helens, north side, from near - the snow line Dr. U. M. Lauman 119 - Glacier Scenes, east of the "Lizard." (2) Dr. U. M. Lauman 120 - *Finest of the St. Helens glaciers G. M. Weister 121 - *Road among the Douglas Firs Asahel Curtis 122 - Ships loading lumber at one of - Portland's mills The Timberman 123 - Outposts of the Forest Shoji Endow 123 - Alpine Hemlocks at the timber line Ray M. Filloon 124 - Mazamas at the foot of Mount St. Helens E. S. Curtis 124 - A Lowland Ravine E. S. Curtis 125 - *The Noble Fir Kiser Photo Co. 125 - Dense Hemlock Forest G. M. Weister 126 - Mount Hood, from Ghost-tree Ridge George R. Miller 126 - *A Group of Red Cedars Asahel Curtis 128 - Road to Government Camp A. M. Grilley 129 - Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County, - Washington Jas. Waggener, Jr. 130 - *Where Man is a Pigmy G. M. Weister 130 - Hemlock growing on Cedar log Asahel Curtis 131 - Tideland Spruce Frank Woodfield 131 - Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir and Yellow Pine Jas. Waggener, Jr. 132 - Yellow Cedar, with young Silver Fir H. D. Norton 133 - *One of the Kings of Treeland Benj. A. Gifford 133 - *Firs and Vine Maples Jas. Waggener, Jr. 134 - Log Raft Benj. A. Gifford 134 - A "Burn" on Mount Hood, overgrown with - Squaw Grass Asahel Curtis 135 - *A Noble Fir Benj. A. Gifford 136 - Western White Pine Unknown 136 - A Clatsop Forest H. D. Langille 137 - Carpet of Firs J. E. Ford 137 - Winter in the Forest, near Mount Hood E. D. Jorgensen 138 - Rangers' Pony Trail A. P. Cronk 138 - Forest Fire on East Fork of Hood River William M. Ladd 139 - Reforestation; three generations of - young growth H. D. Langille 139 - Klickitat River Canyon William R. King 144 - - -MAPS. - - The Scenic Northwest 13 - Mount Hood 58 - Mount Adams 87 - Mount St. Helens 107 - -[Illustration: THE SCENIC NORTHWEST - -Relief Map to accompany - -"THE GUARDIANS _of the_ COLUMBIA" - -by John H. Williams - -Designed by G. H. Mulldorfer.--Portland.] - -[Illustration: A Gray Day on the Columbia. Telephotograph of Mount Hood -from the river opposite Vancouver Barracks.] - - - - -[Illustration: Trout Lake and Mount Adams.] - - - - -THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA - - - - -I. - -THE RIVER - - The Columbia, viewed as one from the sea to the - mountains, is like a rugged, broad-topped picturesque - old oak, about six hundred miles long, and nearly a - thousand miles wide, measured across the spread of its - upper branches, the main limbs gnarled and swollen - with lakes and lake-like expansions, while innumerable - smaller lakes shine like fruit among the smaller - branches.--_John Muir._ - - -ON a frosty morning of last July, before sunrise, I stood upon the -belvedere of the delightful Cloud Cap Inn, which a public-spirited man -of Portland has provided for visitors to the north side of Mount Hood; -and from that superb viewpoint, six thousand feet above sea level, -watched the day come up out of the delicate saffron east. Behind us lay -Eliot Glacier, sloping to the summit of the kindling peak. Before us -rose--an ocean! - -[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia at Vancouver, -with railway bridge in foreground.] - -Never was a marine picture of greater stress. No watcher from the -crags, none who go down to the sea in ships, ever beheld a scene more -awful. Ceaselessly the mighty surges piled up against the ridge at our -feet, as if to tear away the solid foundations of the mountain. Towers -and castles of foam were built up, huge and white, against the sullen -sky, only to hurl themselves into the gulf. Far to the north, dimly -above this gray and heaving surface were seen the crests of three -snow-mantled mountains, paler even than the undulating expanse from -which they emerged. All between was a wild sea that rolled across sixty -miles of space to assail those ghostly islands. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -View up the Columbia on north side, opposite Astoria. Noon rest of the -night fishermen. Much of the fishing on the lower Columbia is done at -night with gill-nets from small boats. The river is here six miles -wide.] - -Yet the tossing breakers gave forth no roar. It was a spectral and -pantomimic ocean. We "had sight of Proteus rising from the sea," but no -Triton of the upper air blew his "wreathed horn." Cold and uncanny, all -that seething ocean was silent as a windless lake under summer stars. It -was a sea of clouds. - -[Illustration: Astoria in 1813, showing the trading post established by -John Jacob Astor.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Looking north from lower end of Eliot Glacier on Mount Hood, across the -Cascade ranges and the Columbia River canyon, twenty-five miles away, to -Mount Adams (right), Mount Rainier-Tacoma (center), and Mount St. Helens -(left). These snow-peaks are respectively 60, 100, and 60 miles -distant.] - -Swiftly the dawn marched westward. The sun, breaking across the eastern -ridges, sent long level beams to sprinkle the cloud-sea with silver. Its -touch was magical. The billows broke and parted. The mists fled in -panic. Cloud after cloud arose and was caught away into space. The -tops of the Cascade ranges below came, one by one, into view. Lower and -lower, with the shortening shadows, the wooded slopes were revealed in -the morning light. Here and there some deep vale was still white and -hidden. Scattered cloud-fleeces clung to pinnacles on the cliffs. -Northward, the snow-peaks in Washington towered higher. Great banks of -fog embraced their forested abutments, and surged up to their glaciers. -But the icy summits smiled in the gladness of a new day. The reign of -darkness and mist was broken. - - Never did sun more beautifully steep - In his first splendor valley, rock or hill. - -Clearer and wider the picture grew. Below us, the orchards of Hood River -caught the fresh breezes and laughed in the first sunshine. The day -reached down into the nearer canyons, and saluted the busy, leaping -brooks. Noisy waterfalls filled the glens with spray, and built rainbows -from bank to bank, then hurried and tumbled on, in conceited haste, as -if the ocean must run dry unless replenished by their wetness ere the -sun should set again. Rippling lakes, in little mountain pockets, -signaled their joy as blankets of dense vapor were folded up and quickly -whisked away. - -[Illustration: Columbia Slough in Winter, near the mouth of the -Willamette.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -Cape Horn, tall basaltic cliffs that rise, terrace upon terrace, on the -north side of the Columbia, twenty-five miles east of Portland. Lone -Rock is seen in the distance.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -St. Peter's Dome, an 800-foot crag on the south bank of the Columbia; -Mt. Adams in the distance - - "Uplift against the blue walls of the sky - Your mighty shapes, and let the sunshine weave - Its golden network in your belting woods; - Smile down in rainbows from your falling floods, - And on your kingly brows at morn and eve - Set crowns of fire."--Whittier.] - -[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, FRANK WOODFIELD - -Campfire of Yakima Indians gathered at the Astoria Centennial, 1911, to -take part in "The Bridge of the Gods," a dramatization of Balch's famous -story. The celebration of the one hundredth anniversary of the Astor -trading post at the mouth of the Columbia was made noteworthy by a -revival of Indian folk lore, in which the myth of the great tamahnawas -bridge held first place.] Thirty miles northeast, a ribbon of gold -flashed the story of a mighty stream at The Dalles. Far beyond, even to -the uplands of the Umatilla and the Snake, to the Blue Mountains of -eastern Washington and Oregon, stretched the wheat fields and stock -ranges of that vast "Inland Empire" which the great river watered; while -westward, cut deep through a dozen folds of the Cascades, the chasm -it had torn on its way to the sea was traced in the faint blue that -distance paints upon evergreen hills. Out on our left, beyond the -mountains, the Willamette slipped down its famous valley to join the -larger river; and still farther, a hundred and fifty miles away, our -glasses caught the vague gray line of the Pacific. Within these limits -of vision lay a noble and historic country, the lower watershed of the -Columbia. - - Earth has not anything to show more fair. - - -[Illustration: Sunset at the mouth of the Columbia. Cape Hancock on -right, Point Adams on left. View from river off Astoria.] - -[Illustration: Northern part of Portland, showing the Willamette River -flowing through it, and indicating relative position of the three -snow-peaks. Mount Hood (right) and Mount St. Helens (left) are each -about fifty miles away, while Mount Adams, seen between, is twenty miles -farther.] - -[Illustration: "The Coming of the White Man" and "Sacajawea," statues in -Portland City Park which commemorate the aboriginal Americans.] - -Wide as was the prospect, however, it called the imagination to a still -broader view; to look back, indeed,--how many millions of years?--to an -earlier dawn, bounded by the horizons of geological time. Let us try to -realize the panorama thus unfolded. As we look down from some aerial -viewpoint, behold! there is no Mount Hood and no Cascade Range. The -volcanic snow-peaks of Oregon and Washington are still embryo in the -womb of earth. We stand face to face with the beginnings of the -Northwest. - -Far south and east of our castle-in-the-air, islands rise slowly out of -a Pacific that has long rolled, unbroken, to the Rocky Mountains. We -see the ocean bed pushed above the tide in what men of later ages will -call the Siskiyou and the Blue Mountains, one range in southwestern, the -other in eastern, Oregon. A third uptilt, the great Okanogan, in -northern Washington, soon appears. All else is sea. Upon these primitive -uplands, the date is written in the fossil archives of their ancient sea -beaches, raised thousands of feet above the former shore-line level. At -a time when all western Europe was still ocean, and busy foraminifers -were strewing its floor with shells to form the chalk beds of France and -England, these first lands of our Northwest emerged from the great deep. -It is but a glimpse we get into the immeasurable distance of the -Paleozoic. Its time-units are centuries instead of minutes. - -[Illustration: Sunset on Vancouver Lake, near Vancouver, Washington.] - -[Illustration: Fort Vancouver in 1852.] - -Another glance, as the next long geological age passes, and we perceive -a second step in the making of the West. It is the gradual uplift of a -thin sea-dike, separating the two islands first disclosed, and -stretching from the present Lower California to our Alaska. It is a -folding of the earth's crust that will, for innumerable ages, exercise a -controlling influence upon the whole western slope of North America. At -first merely a sea-dike, we see it slowly become a far-reaching range of -hills, and then a vast continental mountain system, covering a broad -region with its spurs and interlying plateaus. "The highest mountains," -our school geographies used to tell us, "parallel the deepest oceans." -So here, bordering its profound depths, the Pacific ocean, through -centuries of centuries, thrust upward, fold on fold, the lofty ridges of -this colossal Sierra-Cascade barrier, to be itself a guide of further -land building, a governor of climate, and a reservoir of water for -valleys and river basins as yet unborn. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Rooster Rock, south bank of the Columbia.] - -[Illustration: Seining for salmon on the lower Columbia.] - -Behind this barrier, what revolutions are recorded! The inland sea, at -first a huge body of ocean waters, becomes in time a fresh-water lake. -In its three thousand feet of sediment, it buries the fossils of a -strange reptilian life, covering hundreds of thousands of years. Cycle -follows cycle, altering the face of all that interior basin. Its vast -lake is lessened in area as it is cut off from the Utah lake on the -south and hemmed in by upfolds on the north. Then its bed is lifted up -and broken by forces of which our present-day experiences give us no -example. Instead of one great lake, as drainage proceeds, we behold at -last a wide country of many lakes and rivers. Their shores are clothed -in tropical vegetation. Under the palms, flourish a race of giant -mammals. The broad-faced ox, the mylodon, mammoth, elephant, rhinoceros, -and mastodon, and with them the camel and the three-toed horse, roam the -forests that are building the coal deposits for a later age. This story -of the Eocene and Miocene time is also told in the fossils of the -period, and we may read it in the strata deposited by the lakes. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -The Columbia near Butler, looking across to Multnomah Falls.] - -[Illustration: Captain Som-Kin, chief of Indian police, Umatilla -reservation.] - -[Illustration: Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter. This fascinating -cascade, the most famous in the Northwest, falls 720 feet into a basin, -and then 130 feet to the bank of the Columbia below. - -PHOTOS COPYRIGHT, KISER] - -Age succeeds age, not always distinct, but often overlapping one -another, and all changing the face of nature. The Coast Range rises, -shutting in vast gulfs to fill later, and form the valleys of the -Sacramento and San Joaquin in California and the Willamette in Oregon, -with the partly filled basin of Puget Sound in Washington. Centering -along the Cascade barrier, an era of terrific violence shakes the very -foundation of the Northwest. Elevations and contours are changed. New -lake beds are created. Watersheds and stream courses are remodeled. Dry -"coulees" are left where formerly rivers flowed. Strata are uptilted and -riven, to be cross-sectioned again by the new rivers as they cut new -canyons in draining the new lakes. Most important of all, outflows of -melted rock, pouring from fissures in the changing earth-folds, spread -vast sheets of basalt, trap and andesite over most of the interior. -Innumerable craters build cones of lava and scoriae along the Cascade -uptilt, and scatter clouds of volcanic ashes upon the steady sea winds, -to blanket the country for hundreds of miles with deep layers of future -soil. - -A reign of ice follows the era of tropic heat. Stupendous glaciers grind -the volcanic rocks, and carving new valleys, endow them with fertility -for new forests that will rise where once the palm forests stood. With -advancing age, the earth grows cold and quiet, awakening only to an -occasional volcanic eruption or earthquake as a reminder of former -violence. The dawn of history approaches. The country slowly takes on -its present shape. Landscape changes are henceforth the work of milder -forces, erosion by streams and remnant glaciers. Man appears. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -View from the cliffs at Multnomah Falls (seen on right). Castle Rock is -in distance on north side.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -The broad Columbia, seen from Lone Rock, a small island east of Cape -Horn. Shows successive ranges of the Cascades cut by the river, with -Archer and Arrowhead Mountains and Castle Rock in distance on north -side.] - -[Illustration: Castle Rock, a huge tower of columnar basalt, 1146 feet -high, on north bank of the Columbia, forty miles east of Portland. View -from Mosquito Island.] - -Throughout the cycles of convulsion and revolution which we have -witnessed from our eyrie in the clouds, the vital and increasing -influence in the building of the Northwest has been the Cascade upfold. -First, it merely shuts in a piece of the Pacific. Rising higher, its -condensation of the moist ocean wind feeds the thousand streams that -convert the inland seas thus enclosed from salt to fresh water, and -furnish the silt deposited over their floors. The fractures and faults -resulting from its uptilting spread an empire with some of the largest -lava flows in geological history. It pushes its snow-covered volcanoes -upward, to scatter ashes far to the east. Finally, its increasing height -converts a realm of tropical verdure into semi-arid land, which only its -rivers, impounded by man, will again make fertile. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -The Columbia, opposite Oneonta Bluffs and Gorge, and Horsetail Falls.] - -[Illustration: An original American--"Jake" Hunt, former Klickitat -chief, 112 years old. He is said to be the oldest Indian on the -Columbia.] - -In all this great continental barrier, throughout the changes which we -have witnessed, there has been only one sea-level pass. For nearly a -thousand miles northward from the Gulf of California, the single outlet -for the waters of the interior is the remarkable canyon which we first -saw from the distant roof of Cloud Cap Inn. Here the Columbia, greatest -of Western rivers, has cut its way through ranges rising more than 4,000 -feet on either hand. This erosion, let us remember, has been continuous -and gradual, rather than the work of any single epoch. It doubtless -began when the Cascade Mountains were in their infancy, a gap in the -prolonged but low sea-dike. The drainage, first of the vast salt lake -shut off from the ocean, and then of the succeeding fresh-water lakes, -has preserved this channel to the sea, cutting it deeper and deeper as -the earth-folds rose higher, until at last the canyon became one of the -most important river gorges in the world. Thus nature prepared a vast -and fruitful section of the continent for human use, and provided it -with a worthy highway to the ocean. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -View from 2,300 foot elevation, west of St. Peter's Dome. The Columbia -here hurries down from The Cascades with a speed varying in different -seasons from six to ten miles per hour. Mosquito Island lies below, with -Castle Rock opposite. Beyond, the beautiful wooded ridges rise to 4,100 -feet in Arrowhead and Table Mountains, and the snowy dome of Mount Adams -closes the scene, fifty miles away.] - -Over this beautiful region we may descry yet another dawn, the -beginnings of the Northwestern world according to Indian legend. The -Columbia River Indian, like his brothers in other parts of the country, -was curious about the origin of the things he beheld around him, and -oppressed by things he could not see. The mysteries both of creation and -of human destiny weighed heavily upon his blindness; and his mind, -pathetically groping in the dark, was ever seeking to penetrate the -distant past and the dim future. So far as he had any religion, it was -connected with the symbols of power in nature, the forces which he saw -at work about him. These forces were often terrible and ruinous, so his -gods were as often his enemies as his benefactors. Feeling his -powerlessness against their cunning, he borrowed a cue from the "animal -people," Watetash, who used craft to circumvent the malevolent gods. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Oneonta Gorge, south side of the Columbia, thirty-three miles east of -Portland.] - -These animal people, the Indian believed, had inhabited the world before -the time of the first grandfather, when the sun was as yet only a star, -and the earth, too, had grown but little, and was only a small island. -The chief of the animal people was Speelyei, the coyote, not the -mightiest but the shrewdest of them all. Speelyei was the friend of -"people". He had bidden people to appear, and they "came out." - -[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia, near Bonneville. The main -channel of the river is on right of the shoal in foreground.] - -[Illustration: Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the Willamette at -Oregon City.] - -One of the most interesting attempts to account for the existence of the -Red Man in the Northwest is the Okanogan legend that tells of an island -far out at sea inhabited by a race of giant whites, whose chief was a -tall and powerful woman, Scomalt. When her giants warred among -themselves, Scomalt grew angry and drove all the fighters to the end of -the island. Then she broke off the end of the island, and pushing with -her foot sent it floating away over the sea. The new island drifted far. -All the people on it died save one man and one woman. They caught a -whale, and its blubber saved them from starving. At last they escaped -from the island by making a canoe. In this they paddled many days. Then -they came to the mainland, but it was small. It had not yet grown much. -Here they landed. But while they had been in the canoe, the sun had -turned them from white to red. All the Okanogans were their children. -Hence they all are red. Many years from now the whole of the mainland -will be cut loose from its foundations, and become an island. It will -float about on the sea. That will be the end of the world. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -In the Columbia Canyon at Cascade, with train on the "North Bank" road.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -The Cascades of the Columbia. The narrow, rock-filled channel has a fall -of thirty-seven feet in four miles. Here the river meets the tides from -the ocean, 160 miles away. On the opposite bank, at right, is seen Table -Mountain, 4,100 feet, the north abutment of the legendary "Bridge of the -Gods."] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Fishwheel below the Cascades, with Table Mountain on north side of -river.] - -To the aboriginal Americans in the Northwest the great river, "Wauna" in -their vocabulary, was inevitably a subject of deep interest. It not only -furnished them a highway, but it supplied them with food. Their most -fascinating myths are woven about its history. One of these told of the -mighty struggle between Speelyei and Wishpoosh, the greedy king beaver, -which resulted in breaking down the walls of the great lakes of the -interior and creating a passage for their waters through the mountains. -Thus the Indians accounted for the Columbia and its canyon. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -Sunrise on the Columbia; view at 4 a. m. from top of Table Mountain.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -Nightfall on the Columbia. - - "O love, they die in yon rich sky, - They faint on hill or field or river: - Our echoes roll from soul to soul, - And grow forever and forever."--Tennyson.] - -But first among the river myths must always be the Klickitat legend of -the famous natural bridge, fabled to have stood where the Cascades of -the Columbia now are. This is one of the most beautiful legends -connected with the source of fire, a problem of life in all the northern -lands. Further, it tells the origin of the three snow-peaks that are the -subject of this book. - -[Illustration: Looking down the Columbia below the Cascades, showing -many ranges cut by the river. On the left of the scene is "Sliding -Mountain," its name a reminder that the hillsides on both banks are -slowly moving toward the stream and compelling the railways occasionally -to readjust their tracks.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Wind Mountain and remnant of submerged forest, above the Cascades, at -low water.] - -[Illustration: Steamboat entering Cascade Locks.] - -In the time of their remote grandfathers, said the Klickitats, Tyhee -Saghalie, chief of the gods, had two sons. They made a trip together -down the river to where The Dalles are now. The sons saw that the -country was beautiful, and quarrelled as to its possession. Then -Saghalie shot an arrow to the north and an arrow to the west. The sons -were bidden to find the arrows, and settle where they had fallen. Thus -one son settled in the fair country between the great river and the -Yakima, and became the grandfather of the Klickitats. The other son -settled in the Willamette valley and became the ancestor of the large -Multnomah tribe. To keep peace between the two tribes, Saghalie raised -the great mountains that separate those regions. But there were not yet -any snow-peaks. The great river also flowed very deep between the -country of the Klickitats and the country of the Multnomahs. That the -tribes might always be friendly, Saghalie built a huge bridge of stone -over the river. The Indians called it the tamahnawas bridge, or bridge -of the gods. The great river flowed under it, and a witch-woman, Loowit, -lived on it. Loowit had charge of the only fire in the world. - -[Illustration: Moonlight upon the Columbia, with clouds on Wind -Mountain. Looking up the river from the Cascades.] - -[Illustration: White Salmon River and its Gorge, south of Mount Adams. - -PHOTOS COPYRIGHT, KISER] - -Loowit saw how miserable the tribes were without fire. Therefore she -besought Saghalie to permit her to give them fire. Saghalie granted her -request. Thus a fire was kindled on the bridge. The Indians came there -and obtained fire, which greatly improved their condition. Saghalie was -so much pleased with Loowit's faithfulness that he promised the -witch-woman anything she might ask. Loowit asked for youth and beauty. -So Saghalie transformed her into a beautiful maiden. - -[Illustration: Looking down the Columbia Canyon from the cliffs at White -Salmon, Washington.] - -[Illustration: An Oregon Trout Stream.] - -Many chiefs fell in love with Loowit because of her beauty. But she paid -heed to none till there came two other chiefs, Klickitat from the north, -Wiyeast from the west. As she could not decide which of them to accept -as her husband, they and their people went to war. Great distress came -upon the people because of this fighting. Saghalie grew angry at their -evil doing, and determined to punish them. He broke down the tamahnawas -bridge, and put Loowit, Wiyeast and Klickitat to death. But they had -been beautiful in life, therefore Saghalie would have them beautiful in -death. So he made of them the three famous snow-peaks. Wiyeast became -the mountain which white men call Mount Hood; Klickitat became Mount -Adams; Loowit was changed into Mount St. Helens. Always, said Saghalie, -they should be clothed in garments of snow. - -[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia from Hood River, Oregon.] - -Thus was the wonderful tamahnawas bridge destroyed, and the great river -dammed by the huge rocks that fell into it. That caused the Cascade -rapids. Above the rapids, when the river is low, you can still see the -forests that were buried when the bridge fell down and dammed the -waters. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD - -Hood River, fed by the glaciers of Mount Hood.] - -This noteworthy myth, fit to rank with the folk-lore masterpieces of any -primitive people, Greek or Gothic, is of course only a legend. The -Indian was not a geologist. True, we see the submerged forests to-day, -at low water. But their slowly decaying trunks were killed, perhaps not -much more than a century ago, by a rise in the river that was not caused -by the fall of a natural bridge, but by a landslide from the mountains. - -[Illustration: A Late Winter Afternoon. View across the Columbia from -White Salmon to the mouth of Hood River, showing the Hood River Valley -with Mount Hood wrapped in clouds.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Memaloose Island, or Island of the Dead, last resting place of thousands -of Indians. The lone monument is that of Maj. Victor Trevitt, a -celebrated pioneer, who asked to be buried here among "honest men."] - -There is a slow and glacier-like motion of the hillsides here which from -time to time compels the railways on either bank to readjust their -tracks. The rapids at the Cascades, with their fall of nearly forty -feet, are doubtless the result of comparatively recent volcanic action. -Shaking down vast masses of rock, this dammed the river, and caused it -to overflow its wooded shores above. But to the traveler on a steamboat -breasting the terrific current below the government locks, as he looks -up to the towering heights on either side of the narrowed channel, the -invention of poor Lo's untutored mind seems almost as easy to believe as -the simpler explanation of the scientist. - -[Illustration: "Gateway to the Inland Empire." Towering cliffs of -stratified lava that guard the Columbia on each bank at Lyle, -Washington.] - -Remarkable as is this fire myth of the tamahnawas bridge, the legend -inspired by the peculiarities of northwestern climate is no less -beautiful. This climate differs materially, it is well known, from that -of eastern America in the same latitude. The Japan Current warms the -coast of Oregon and Washington just as the Gulf Stream warms the coast -of Ireland. East of the Cascade Mountains, the severe cold of a northern -winter is tempered by the "Chinook" winds from the Pacific. A period of -freezing weather is shortly followed by the melting of the snow upon the -distant mountains; by night the warm Chinook sweeps up the Columbia -canyon and across the passes, and in a few hours the mildness of spring -covers the land. - -[Illustration: "Grant Castle" and Palisades of the Columbia, on north -side of the river below The Dalles.] - -Such a phenomenon inevitably stirred the Indian to an attempt to -interpret it. Like the ancients of other races, he personified the -winds. The Yakima account of the struggle between the warm winds from -the coast and the icy blasts out of the Northeast will bear comparison -with the Homeric tale of Ulysses, buffeted by the breezes from the bag -given him by the wind-god Aeolus. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -The Dalles of the Columbia, lower channel, east of Dalles City. The -river, crowded into a narrow flume, flows here at a speed often -exceeding ten miles an hour.] - -Five Chinook brothers, said the Yakima tradition, lived on the great -river. They caused the warm winds to blow. Five other brothers lived at -Walla Walla, the meeting place of the waters. They caused the cold -winds. The grandparents of them all lived at Umatilla, home of the -wind-blown sands. Always there was war between them. They swept over the -country, destroying the forests, covering the rivers with ice, or -melting the snows and causing floods. The people suffered much because -of their violence. - -[Illustration: Cabbage Rock, a huge freak of nature standing in the open -plain four miles north of The Dalles. Apparently, the lava core of a -small extinct crater.] - -Then Walla Walla brothers challenged Chinook brothers to wrestle. -Speelyei, the coyote god, should judge the contest. He should cut off -the heads of those who fell. - -[Illustration: A True Fish Story of the Columbia, where four- and even -five-foot salmon are not uncommon.] - -The crafty Speelyei secretly advised the grandparents of Chinook -brothers that if they would throw oil on the ground, their sons would -not fall. This they did. But Speelyei also told the grandparents of -Walla Walla brothers that if they would throw ice on the ground, their -sons would not fall. This they did. So the Chinook brothers were thrown -one after another, and Speelyei cut off their heads, according to the -bargain. So the five Chinook brothers were dead. - -But the oldest of them left an infant son. The child's mother brought -him up to avenge the killing of his kinsmen. So the son grew very -strong, until he could pull up great fir trees as if they were weeds. -Then Walla Walla brothers challenged Young Chinook to wrestle. Speelyei -should judge the contest. He should cut off the heads of those who fell. -Secretly Speelyei advised Young Chinook's grandparents to throw oil on -the ground last. This they did. So Walla Walla brothers were thrown one -after another by Young Chinook, until four of them had fallen. Only the -youngest of them was left. His heart failed him, and he refused to -wrestle. Speelyei pronounced this sentence upon him: "You shall live, -but you shall no longer have power to freeze people." To Young Chinook, -he said: "You must blow only lightly, and you must blow first upon the -mountains, to warn people of your coming." - -[Illustration: The Zigzag river in winter, south side of Mount Hood.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER - -The Dalles. This name, meaning literally flat stones, was given by the -early French-Canadian voyageurs to the twelve-mile section below Celilo, -where, the Columbia has cut through the level lava strata, forming a -channel in some places less than 200 feet wide and nearly 200 feet deep -at low water. At higher stages the river fills many lateral channels and -roars past many islands of its own carving.] - -The last dawn of all opens upon the white man's era. On the Columbia, -recorded history is recent, but already epic. Its story is outside the -purpose of this volume. But it is worth while, in closing our brief -glance at the field, to note that this story has been true to its -setting. Rich in heroism and romance, it is perhaps the most typical, as -it is the latest, chapter in the development of the West. For this land -of the river, its quarter-million square miles stretching far northward -to Canada, and far eastward to the Yellowstone, built about with -colossal mountains, laced with splendid waterways, jeweled with -beautiful lakes, where upheaval and eruption, earthquake and glacier -have prepared a home for a great and happy population, has already been -the scene of a drama of curious political contradictions and remarkable -popular achievement. - -[Illustration: The "Witch's Head," an Indian picture rock at the old -native village of Wishram, north side of the Columbia near Celilo Falls. -The Indians believe that if an unfaithful wife passes this rock, its -eyes follow her with mute accusation.] - -[Illustration: Village of Indian Tepees, Umatilla Reservation, near -Pendleton, Oregon. Many of these Indians are rich landowners, but they -prefer tents to houses.] - -The Columbia River basin, alone of all the territories which the United -States has added to its original area, was neither bought with money nor -annexed by war. Its acquisition was a triumph of the American pioneer. -Many nations looked with longing to this Northwest, but it fell a prize -to the nation that neglected it. Spain and Russia wished to own it. -Great Britain claimed and practically held it. The United States -ignored it. For nearly half a century after the discovery of the river -by a Yankee ship captain, Robert Gray, in 1792, and its exploration by -Jefferson's expedition under Lewis and Clark, in 1805, its ownership was -in question. For several decades after an American merchant, John Jacob -Astor, had established the first unsuccessful trading post, in 1811, the -country was actually ruled by the British through a private corporation. -The magic circle drawn about it by the Hudson's Bay Company seemed -impenetrable. Held nominally by the American and British governments in -joint occupancy, it was in fact left to the halfbreed servants of a -foreign monopoly that sought to hold an empire for its fur trade, and to -exclude settlers because their farms would interfere with its beaver -traps. Congress deemed the region worthless. - -[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from Eagle Peak in the Rainier National -Park. View shows some of the largest earth-folds in the Cascade Range, -with the great canyon of the Cowlitz, one of the tributaries of the -Columbia River. Elevation of camera 6,000 feet.] - -[Illustration: A clearing in the forest. Mount Hood from Sandy, -twenty-five miles west of the peak.] - -But while sleepy diplomacy played its game of chess between Washington -and London, the issue was joined, the title cleared and possession taken -by a breed of men to whom the United States owes more than it can ever -pay. From far east came the thin vanguard of civilization which, for a -century after the old French and Indian war, pushed our boundaries -resistlessly westward. It had seized the "dark and bloody ground" of -Kentucky. It had held the Ohio valley for the young republic during the -Revolution. It had built states from the Alleghanies to the Mississippi. -And now, dragging its wagons across the plains and mountains, it burst, -sun-browned and half-starved, into Oregon. Missionaries and traders, -farmers, politicians and speculators, it was part of that army of -restless spirits who, always seeing visions of more fertile lands and -rising cities beyond, stayed and long in no place, until at last they -found their way barred by the Pacific, and therefore stayed to build the -commonwealths of Oregon, Washington and Idaho. - -[Illustration: An Indian Madonna and Child. Umatilla Reservation.] - -[Illustration: Finished portion of Canal at Celilo, which the Government -is building around Tumwater Falls and The Dalles.] - -The arena of their peaceful contest was worthy of their daring. "'A land -of old upheaven from the abyss,' a land of deepest deeps and highest -heights, of richest verdure here, and barest desolation there, of dense -forest on one side, and wide extended prairies on the other; a land of -contrasts, contrasts in contour, hues, productions, and history,"--thus -Professor Lyman describes the stage which the pioneers found set for -them. - -The tremendous problems of its development, due to its topography, its -remoteness, its magnificent distances, and its lack of transportation, -demanded men of sturdiest fiber and intrepid leading. No pages of our -history tell a finer story of action and initiative than those which -enroll the names of McLoughlin, the great Company's autocratic governor, -not unfitly called "the father of Oregon," and Whitman, the martyr, with -the frontier leaders who fashioned the first ship of state launched in -the Northwest, and their contemporaries, the men who built the first -towns, roads, schools, mills, steamboats and railways. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER - -The grim sentinels of "the Wallula Gateway," huge basaltic pillars that -rise on the south bank of the river, where it crosses the -Washington-Oregon line. View looking south.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -Tumwater, the falls of the Columbia at Celilo; total drop, twenty feet -at low water. In Summer, when the snow on the Bitter Root and Rocky -Mountains is melting, the river rises often more than sixty feet. -Steamboats have then passed safely down. Wishram, an ancient Indian -fishing village, was on the north bank below the falls, and Indians may -often still be seen spearing salmon from the shores and islands here.] - -Macaulay tells us that a people who are not proud of their forebears -will never deserve the pride of their descendants. The makers of Old -Oregon included as fair a proportion of patriots and heroes as the -immigrants of the Mayflower. We who journey up or down the Columbia in a -luxurious steamer, or ride in a train _de luxe_ along its banks, are the -heirs of their achievement. Honor to the dirt-tanned ox-drivers who -seized for themselves and us this empire of the river and its guardian -snow-peaks! - - A lordly river, broad and deep, - With mountains for its neighbors, and in view - Of distant mountains and their snowy tops. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT. G. M. WEISTER - -Summit of Mount Hood, viewed from western end of the ridge, showing -north side of the peak in July.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -Columbia River and Mt. Hood, seen from White Salmon, Washington. - - "Beloved mountain, I - Thy worshiper, as thou the sun's, each morn - My dawn, before the dawn, receive from thee; - And think, as thy rose-tinted peak I see, - That thou wert great when Homer was not born, - And ere thou change all human song shall die."--Helen Hunt Jackson.] - - - - -[Illustration: North side of Mount Hood, from ridge several miles west -of Cloud Cap Inn. View shows gorges cut by the glacier-fed streams. -Cooper Spur is on left sky line. Barret Spur is the great ridge on -right, with Ladd glacier canyon beyond. Coe glacier is in center.] - - - - -II. - -THE MOUNTAINS. - - Silent and calm, have you e'er scaled the height - Of some lone mountain peak, in heaven's sight? - --_Victor Hugo._ - - There stood Mount Hood in all the glory of the alpen - glow, looming immensely high, beaming with - intelligence. It seemed neither near nor far.... The - whole mountain appeared as one glorious manifestation - of divine power, enthusiastic and benevolent, glowing - like a countenance with ineffable repose and beauty, - before which we could only gaze with devout and lowly - admiration.--_John Muir._ - -[Illustration: Winter on Mount Hood. The roof of the club house of the -Portland Snow-shoe Club is seen over the ridge.] - -FROM the heights which back the city of Portland on the west, one may -have a view that is justly famous among the fairest prospects in -America. Below him lies the restless city, busy with its commerce. -Winding up from the south comes the Willamette, its fine valley narrowed -here by the hills, where the river forms Portland's harbor, and is lined -on either side with mills and shipping. Ten miles beyond, the Columbia -flows down from its canyon on the east, and turns northward, an -expanding waterway for great vessels, to its broad pass through the -Coast Range. In every direction, city and country, farm and forest, -valley and mountain, stretches a noble perspective. From the wide rivers -and their shining borders, almost at sea level, the scene arises, -terrace upon terrace, to the encircling hills, and spreads across range -after range to the summits of the great Cascades. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER - -Watching the climbers from the plaza at Cloud Cap Inn, northeast side of -Mount Hood. Immediately in front, Eliot glacier is seen, dropping into -its canyon on the right. On the left is Cooper Spur, from which a sharp -ascent leads to the summit of the peak.] - -Dominating all are the snow-peaks, august sentinels upon the horizon. On -a clear day, the long line of them begins far down in central Oregon, -and numbers six snowy domes. But any average day includes in its glory -the three nearest, Hood, Adams, and St. Helens. Spirit-like, they loom -above the soft Oregon haze, their glaciers signaling from peak to peak, -and their shining summits bidding the sordid world below to look upward. - -[Illustration: Mount Hood, elevation 11,225 feet] - -Nature has painted canvases more colorful, but none more perfect in its -strength and rest. Here is no flare of the desert, none of the -flamboyant, terrible beauty of the Grand Canyon. It is a land of warm -ocean winds and cherishing sunshine, where the emeralds and jades of the -valleys quickly give place to the bluer greens of evergreen forests that -cover the hill country; and these, in turn, as distance grows, shade -into the lavenders and grays of the successive ranges. The white peaks -complete the picture with its most characteristic note. They give it -distinction. - -[Illustration: Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from Cooper Spur, and -showing the lateral moraines which this receding glacier has built in -recent years.] - -[Illustration: Snout of Eliot glacier, its V-shaped ice front heavily -covered with morainal debris.] - -Such a panorama justifies Ruskin's bold assertion: "Mountains are the -beginning and end of all natural scenery." Without its mountains, the -view from Council Crest would be as uninteresting as that from any tower -in any prairie city. But all mountains are not alike. In beginning our -journey to the three great snow-peaks which we have viewed from Portland -heights, it is well to define, if we may, the special character of our -Northwestern scene. We sometimes hear the Cascade district praised as -"the American Switzerland." Such a comparison does injustice alike to -our mountains and to the Alps. As a wild, magnificent sea of ice-covered -mountain tops, the Alps have no parallel in America. As a far-reaching -system of splendid lofty ranges clothed in the green of dense forests -and surmounted by towering, isolated summits of snowy volcanoes, the -Cascades are wholly without their equal in Europe. This is the testimony -of famous travelers and alpinists, among them Ambassador Bryce, who has -written of our Northwestern mountain scenery: - - We have nothing more beautiful in Switzerland or - Tyrol, in Norway or in the Pyrenees. The combination - of ice scenery with woodland scenery of the grandest - type is to be found nowhere in the Old World, unless - it be in the Himalayas, and, so far as we know, - nowhere else on the American continent. - -[Illustration: Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper Spur on northwest -side. A popular route to the summit leads along this ridge of volcanic -scoriae and up the steep snow slope above.] - -[Illustration: Cloud Cap Inn, north side of Mount Hood. Elevation 5,900 -feet.] - -In his celebrated chapter of the "Modern Painters" which describes the -sculpture of the mountains, Ruskin draws a picture of the Alps that at -once sets them apart from the Cascades: - - The longer I stayed among the Alps, the more I was - struck by their being a vast plateau, upon which - nearly all the highest peaks stood like children set - upon a table, removed far back from the edge, as if - for fear of their falling. The most majestic scenes - are produced by one of the great peaks having - apparently walked to the edge of the table to look - over, and thus showing itself suddenly above the - valley in its full height. But the raised table is - always intelligibly in existence, even in these - exceptional cases; and for the most part, the great - peaks are not allowed to come to the edge of it, but - remain far withdrawn, surrounded by comparatively - level fields of mountain, over which the lapping - sheets of glacier writhe and flow. The result is the - division of Switzerland into an upper and lower - mountain world; the lower world consisting of rich - valleys, the upper world, reached after the first - steep banks of 3,000 to 4,000 feet have been - surmounted, consisting of comparatively level but most - desolate tracts, half covered by glacier, and - stretching to the feet of the true pinnacles of the - chain. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Portland's White Sentinel, Mount Hood. Telephoto view from City Park, -showing a portion of the city, with modern buildings and smoke of -factories.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Ice cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount Hood.] - -Nothing of this in the Cascades! Instead, we have fold upon fold of the -earth-crust, separated by valleys of great depth. The ranges rise from -levels but little above the sea. For example, between Portland and -Umatilla, although they are separated by the mountains of greatest -actual elevation in the United States, there is a difference of less -than two hundred and fifty feet, Umatilla, east of the Cascades, being -only two hundred and ninety-four feet above tide. Trout Lake, lying -below Mount Adams, at the head of one of the great intermountain -valleys, has an elevation of less than two thousand feet. - -[Illustration: Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot glacier in -winter.] - -Thus, instead of the Northwestern snow-peaks being set far back upon a -general upland and hidden away behind lesser mountains, to be seen only -after one has reached the plateau, thousands of feet above sea level, -they actually rise either from comparatively low peneplanes on one side -of the Cascades, as in the case of St. Helens, or from the summit of one -of the narrow, lofty ridges, as do Hood and Adams. But in either case, -the full elevation is seen near at hand and from many directions--an -elevation, therefore, greater and more impressive than that of most of -the celebrated Alpine summits. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Snow-bridge over great crevasse, near head of Eliot glacier.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Coasting down east side of Mount Hood, above Cooper Spur. Mount Adams in -distance.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Mount Hood from the hills south of The Dalles, showing the comparatively -timberless country east of the Cascades. Compare this treeless region, -as well as the profile of Mount Hood here shown, with the view from -Larch Mountain.] - -Famous as is the valley of Chamonix, and noteworthy as are the glaciers -to which it gives close access, its views of Mont Blanc are -disappointing. Not until the visitor has scaled one of the neighboring -_aiguilles_, can he command a satisfactory outlook toward the Monarch of -the Alps. And nowhere in Switzerland do I recall a picture of such -memorable splendor as greets the traveler from the Columbia, journeying -either southward, up the Hood River Valley toward Mount Hood, or -northward, up the White Salmon Valley toward Trout Lake and Mount Adams. -Here is unrolled a wealth of fertile lowlands, surrounded by lofty -ranges made beautiful by their deep forests and rising to grandeur in -their snow-peaks. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, L. J. HICKS - -Mount Hood, seen from Larch Mountain, on the Columbia River. View -looking southeast across the heavily forested ranges of the Cascades to -the deep canyons below Ladd and Sandy glaciers.] - -[Illustration: Butterfly on the summit of Mount Hood.] - -Leaving the canyon of the Columbia, in either direction the road follows -swift torrents of white glacial water that tell of a source far above. -It crosses a famous valley, among its orchards and hayfields, but always -in view of the dark blue mountains and of the snow-covered volcanoes -that rise before and behind, their glaciers shining like polished steel -in the sunlight. So the visitor reaches the foot of his mountain. Losing -sight of it for a time, he follows long avenues of stately trees as he -climbs the benches. In a few hours he stands upon a barren shoulder of -the peak, at timber line. A new world confronts him. The glaciers reach -their icy arms to him from the summit, and he breathes the winds that -sweep down from their fields of perennial snow. - -[Illustration: Members of Portland Snow-shoe Club on way to Mount Hood -in winter, and at their club house, near Cloud Cap Inn.] - -[Illustration: Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater Rock.] - -It is all very different from Switzerland, this quick ascent from -bending orchards and forested hills to a mighty peak standing white and -beautiful in its loneliness. But it is so wonderful that Americans who -love the heights can no longer neglect it, and each year increasing -numbers are discovering that here in the Northwest is mountain scenery -worth traveling far to see, with very noble mountains to climb, true -glaciers to explore, and the widest views of grandeur and interest to -enjoy. Such sport combines recreation and inspiration. - -[Illustration: Looking across the head of Eliot glacier from near the -summit of Mount Hood.] - -The traveler from Portland to either Mount Hood or Mount Adams may go by -rail or steamer to Hood River, Oregon, or White Salmon, Washington. -These towns are on opposite banks of the Columbia at its point of -greatest beauty. Thence he will journey by automobile or stage up the -corresponding valley to the snow-peak at its head. If he is bound for -Mount Hood his thirty-mile ride will bring him to a charming mountain -hotel, Cloud Cap Inn, placed six thousand feet above the sea, on a ridge -overlooking Eliot glacier, Hood's finest ice stream. - -[Illustration: Mount Hood at night, seen from Cloud Cap Inn. This view -is from a negative exposed from nine o'clock until midnight.] - -If Mount Adams be his destination, a ride of similar length from White -Salmon will bring him merely to the foot of the mountain. The stages -run only to Guler, on Trout Lake, and to Glenwood. Each of these -villages has a comfortable country hotel which may be made the base for -fishing and hunting in the neighborhood. Each is about twelve miles from -the snow-line. At either place, guides, horses and supplies may be had -for the trip to the mountain. Glenwood is nearer to the famous -Hellroaring Canyon and the glaciers of the southeast side. Guler is a -favorite point of departure for the south slope and for the usual route -to the summit. - -Another popular starting point for Mount Adams is Goldendale, reached by -a branch of the North Bank railway from Lyle on the Columbia. This route -also leads to the fine park district on the southeastern slope, and it -has a special attraction, as it skirts the remarkable canyon of the -Klickitat River. Many parties also journey to the mountain from North -Yakima and other towns on the Northern Pacific railway. Hitherto, all -such travel from either north or south has meant a trip on foot or -horseback over interesting mountain trails, and has involved the -necessity of packing in camp equipment and supplies. During the present -summer, a hotel is to be erected a short distance from the end of Mazama -glacier, at an altitude of about sixty-five hundred feet, overlooking -Hellroaring Canyon on one side, and on the other a delightful region of -mountain tarns, waterfalls and alpine flower meadows. Its verandas will -command the Mazama and Klickitat glaciers, and an easy route will lead -to the summit. With practicable roads from Goldendale and Glenwood, it -should draw hosts of lovers of scenery and climbing, and aid in making -this great mountain as well known as it deserves to be. - -[Illustration: Climbing Mount Hood, with ropes anchored on the summit -and extending down on east and south faces of the peak.] - -[Illustration: North side of Mount Hood, seen from moraine of Coe -glacier. This glacier flows down from the summit, where its snow-field -adjoins that of Eliot glacier (left). West of the Coe, the Ladd glacier -is seen, separated from the former by Pulpit Rock, the big crag in the -middle distance, and Barrett Spur, the high ridge on the right.] - -Visitors going to Mount Hood from Portland have choice of a second very -attractive hotel base in Government Camp, on the south slope at an -altitude of thirty-nine hundred feet. This is reached by automobiles -from the city, over a fair road that will soon be a good road, thanks -to the Portland Automobile Club. The mountain portion of this highway is -the historic Barlow road, opened in 1845, the first wagon road -constructed across the Cascades. As the motor climbs out of the Sandy -River valley, and grapples the steep moraines built by ancient -icefields, the traveler gets a very feeling reminder of the pluck of -Captain Barlow and his company of Oregon "immigrants" in forcing a way -across these rugged heights. But the beauty of the trip makes it well -worth while, and Government Camp gives access to a side of the peak that -should be visited by all who would know how the sun can shatter a big -mountain with his mighty tools of ice. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Looking west on summit of Mount Hood, with Mazama Rock below.] - -[Illustration: Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama Rock, showing the -sun-cupped ice of midsummer.] - -[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from Sandy River canyon, six miles west -of snow line. This important picture begins with Barrett Spur and Ladd -glacier on the north sky line (left). On the northwest face of the peak -is the main Sandy glacier, its end divided by a ridge into two parts. -The forested "plowshare" projecting into the canyon is Yocum Ridge. -South of it the south branch of the Sandy river flows down from a -smaller glacier called the Little Sandy, or Reid. The broad bottom of -this canyon and the scored cliffs on its sides show that it was formerly -occupied by the glacier.] - -The hotel here was erected in 1900 by O. C. Yocum, under whose competent -guidance many hundreds of climbers reached the summit of Mount Hood. The -Hotel is now owned by Elisha Coalman, who has also succeeded to his -predecessor's office as guide. During the last year he has enlarged his -inn, and he is now also building comfortable quarters for climbers at a -camp four miles nearer the snow line, on the ridge separating White -River glacier from Zigzag glacier. - - -MOUNT HOOD. - -Mount Hood is the highest mountain in Oregon, and because of a general -symmetry in its pyramidal shape and its clear-cut, far-seen features of -rock and glacier, it has long been recognized as one of the most -beautiful of all American snow peaks. Rising from the crest of the -Cascades, it presents its different profiles and variously sculptured -faces to the entire valley of the Columbia, east and west, above which -it towers in stately magnificence, a very king of the mountains, ruling -over a domain of ranges, valleys and cities proud of their allegiance. - -[Illustration: Crevasses on Coe glacier.] - -On October 20, 1792, Lieutenant Broughton, of Vancouver's exploring -expedition in quest of new territories for His Majesty George III., -discovered from the Columbia near the mouth of the Willamette, "a very -distant high snowy mountain, rising beautifully conspicuous," which he -strangely mistook to be the source of the great river. Forthwith he -named it in honor of Rear Admiral Samuel Hood, of the British Admiralty -who had distinguished himself in divers naval battles during the -American and French Revolutions. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Mount Hood, with Crevasses of Eliot Glacier in foreground. - - "Evermore the wind - Is thy august companion; yea, thy peers - Are cloud and thunder, and the face sublime - Of the blue mid-heaven."--Henry Clarence Kendall.] - -The mountain has been climbed more often than any other American -snow-peak. The first ascent was made on August 4, 1854, from the south -side, by a party under Captain Barlow, builder of the "immigrant road." -One of the climbers, Editor Dryer of _The Oregonian_, published an -account of the trip in which, with more exactness than accuracy, he -placed the height of the mountain at 18,361 feet! The most notable -ascent by a large party took place forty years later, when nearly two -hundred men and women met on the summit, and there, with parliamentary -dispatch bred of a bitter wind, organized a mountain club which has -since become famous. For its title they took the name "mazama," Mexican -for the mountain goat, close kin to the Alpine chamois. Membership was -opened to those who have scaled a snow-peak on foot. By their -publications and their annual climbs, the Mazamas have done more than -any other agency to promote interest in our Northwestern mountains. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Crevasses and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot Glacier, Mount Hood.] - -[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barrett Spur. On the -left, cascading down from the summit, is Coe glacier; on the right, Ladd -glacier. The high cliff separating them is "Pulpit Rock."] - -[Illustration: Ice Cascade, south side of Mount Hood, near head of White -River glacier.] - -Mount Hood stands, as I have said, upon the summit of the Cascades. The -broad and comparatively level back of the range is here about four -thousand feet above the sea. Upon this plane the volcano erected its -cone, chiefly by the expulsion of scoriae rather than by extensive lava -flows, to a farther height of nearly a mile and a half. There is no -reason to suppose that it ever greatly exceeded its present altitude, -which government observations have fixed at 11,225 feet. Its diameter -at its base is approximately seven miles from east to west. - -[Illustration: Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of Mount Hood.] - -Compared with Mount Adams, its broken and decapitated northern neighbor, -Mount Hood, although probably dating from Miocene time, is still young -enough to have retained in a remarkable degree the general shape of its -original cone. But as we approach it from any direction, we find -abundant proof that powerful destructive agents have been busy during -the later geological ages. Already the summit plateau upon which the -peak was built up has been largely dissected by the glaciers and their -streams. The whole neighborhood of the mountain is a vastly rugged -district of glacial canyons and eroded water channels, trenched deep in -the soft volcanic ashes and the underlying ancient rock of the range. -The mountain itself, although still a pyramid, also has its story of age -and loss. Its eight glaciers have cut away much of its mass. On three -sides they have burrowed so deeply into the cone that its original -angle, which surviving ridges show to have been about thirty degrees, -has on the upper glacial slopes been doubled. This is well illustrated -by the views shown on pages 58, 61, 69 and 71. - -[Illustration: Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for the summit at -daybreak. South side of Mount Hood.] - -[Illustration: Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south side. Its north rim -is the distant summit ridge. Steel's Cliff (right) and Illumination Rock -(left) are parts of east and west rims. The south wall has been torn -away, but the hard lava core remains in Crater Rock, the cone rising in -center. Note the climbers ascending the "Hog-back" or ridge leading from -Crater Rock up to the "bergschrund," a great crevasse which stretches -across the crater at head of the glaciers. The ridge in foreground is -Triangle Moraine. On its right is White River glacier; on left, the -fan-shaped Zigzag glacier.] - -This cutting back into the mountain has greatly lessened the area of the -upper snow-fields. The reservoirs feeding the glaciers, are therefore -much smaller than of old, but, by way of compensation, present a -series of most interesting ice formations on the steeper slopes. In this -respect, Mount Hood is especially noteworthy among our Northwestern -snow-peaks. While larger glaciers are found on other mountains, none are -more typical. The glaciers of Hood especially repay study because of -their wonderful variety of ice-falls, terraces, seracs, towers, castles, -pinnacles and crevasses. Winter has fashioned a colossal architecture of -wild forms. - - Ye ice-falls! ye that from the mountain's brow - Adown enormous ravines slope amain,-- - Torrents, methinks, that heard a mighty voice, - And stopped at once amid their maddest plunge! - Motionless torrents! silent cataracts! - -[Illustration: South side of Mount Hood, seen from crag on -Tom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge, five miles from the snow-line. A thousand feet -below is the hotel called "Government Camp," with the Barlow road, the -first across the Cascades. On left are Zigzag and Sand canyons, cut by -streams from Zigzag glacier above.] - -[Illustration: Crag on which above view was taken.] - -The visitor who begins his acquaintance with Mount Hood on the north -side has, from Cloud Cap Inn, four interesting glaciers within a radius -of a few miles. Immediately before the Inn, Eliot glacier displays its -entire length of two miles, its snout being only a few rods away. West -of this, Coe and Ladd glaciers divide the north face with the Eliot. All -three have their source in neighboring reservoirs near the summit, which -have been greatly reduced in area. This, with the resulting shrinkage -in the glaciers, is shown by the high lateral moraines left as the width -of the ice streams has lessened. On the east slope is a fine cliff -glacier, the Newton Clark, separated from the Eliot by Cooper Spur, a -long ridge that furnishes the only feasible north-side route for -climbers to the summit. - -[Illustration: Part of the "bergschrund" above Crater Rock. A -bergschrund is a crevasse of which the lower side lies much below its -upper side. It is caused by a sharp fall in the slope, or by the ice at -the head of a glacier pulling away from the packed snow above.] - -Climbing Cooper Spur is a tedious struggle up a long cinder slope, but -it has its reward in fine views of the near-by glaciers and a wide -outlook over the surrounding country. A tramp of three miles from the -Inn covers the easier grade, and brings the climber to a height of eight -thousand feet. A narrow, snow-covered chine now offers a windy path to -the foot of the steeper slope (See p. 60). The climb ends with the -conquest of a half-mile of vertical elevation over a grade that tests -muscle, wind and nerve. This is real mountaineering, and as the novice -clutches the rocks, or carefully follows in the steps cut by the guide, -he recalls a command well adapted to such trying situations: "Prove all -things; hold fast that which is good." But the danger is more apparent -than real, and the goal is soon reached. - -[Illustration: Prof. Harry Fielding Reid and party exploring Zigzag -glacier, south side of Mount Hood. Illumination Rock is seen beyond.] - -The south-side route, followed by the Barlow party of 1854, was long -deemed the only practicable trail to the summit. Many years later, -William A. Langille discovered the route up from Cooper Spur. The only -accident charged against this path befell a stranger who was killed in -trying to climb it without a guide. Its steepness is, indeed, an -advantage, as it requires less time than the other route. Climbers -frequently ascend by one trail and descend by the other, thus making the -trip between Cloud Cap Inn and Government Camp in a day. - -[Illustration: Mazamas climbing the "Hog-back," above Crater Rock, and -passing this rock on the descent.] - -The actual summit of Mount Hood is a narrow but fairly level platform, a -quarter of a mile long, which is quickly seen to be part of the rim of -the ancient crater. Below it, on the north, are the heads of three -glaciers already mentioned, the Eliot, Coe and Ladd; and looking down -upon them, the climber perceives that here the mountain has been so much -cut away as to be less a slope than a series of precipices, with very -limited benches which serve as gathering grounds of snow. (See pp. 55, -67 and 70.) These shelves feed the lower ice-streams with a diet of -avalanches that is year by year becoming less bountiful as this front -becomes more steep. Soon, indeed, geologically speaking, the present -summit, undermined by the ice, must fall, and the mountain take on a new -aspect, with a lower, broader top. Thus while the beautiful verse which -I have quoted under the view of Mount Hood from White Salmon (p. 56) is -admirable poetry, its last line is very poor geology. This, however, -need not deter any present-day climbers! - -On the south side of the summit ridge a vastly different scene is -presented. Looking down over its easy slope, one recognizes even more -clearly than from the north-side view that Mount Hood is merely a wreck -of its former graceful cone, a torn and disintegrating remnant, with -very modest pretensions to symmetry, after all, but still a fascinating -exhibit of the work of such Gargantuan forces as hew and whittle such -peaks. - -[Illustration: Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount Hood, above -Government Camp.] - -The crater had a diameter of about half a mile. Its north rim remains in -the ridge on which our climber stands. All the rest of its circumference -has been torn away, but huge fragments of its wall are seen far below, -on the right and left, in "cleavers" named respectively Illumination -Rock and Steel's Cliff. One of these recalls several displays of red -fire on the mountain by the Mazamas. The other great abutment was -christened in honor of the first president of that organization. - -Apart from these ridges, the entire rim is missing; but below the -spectator, at what must have been the center of its circle, towers a -great cone of lava, harder than the andesitic rocks and the scoriae which -compose the bulk of the mountain. This is known as Crater Rock. It is -the core of the crater, formed when the molten lava filling its neck -cooled and hardened. Around it the softer mass has worn down to the -general grade of the south slope, which extends five miles from just -below the remaining north rim at the head of the glaciers to the -neighborhood of Government Camp, far down on the Cascade plateau. The -grade is much less than thirty degrees. Over the slope flow down two -glaciers, the Zigzag on the west, and the White River glacier on the -east, of Crater Rock. - -[Illustration: Mount Hood Lily. - -(_L. Washingtonianum_)] - -It is sometimes said that the south side of the old summit was blown -away by a terrific explosion. That is improbable, in view of Crater -Rock, which indicates a dormant volcano when the south side was -destroyed. The mountain was doubtless rent by ice rather than by fire. -The mass of ice and snow in and upon the crater broke apart the -comparatively loose wall, and pushed its shattered tuffs and cinders far -down the slopes. Forests were buried, old canyons were filled, and the -whole southwest side of the mountain was covered with the fan-shaped -outwash from the breach. Through this debris of the ancient crater the -streams at the feet of the glaciers below are cutting vast ravines which -can be seen from the heights above. (See illustrations, pp. 77-81.) - -[Illustration: Mazama party exploring White River glacier, Mount Hood.] - -The central situation of Mount Hood makes the view from its summit -especially worth seeking. From the Pacific to the Blue Mountains, south -almost to the California line, and north as far, it embraces an area -equal to a great state, with four hundred miles of the undulating -Cascade summits and a dozen calm and radiant snow-peaks. The Columbia -winds almost at its foot, and a multitude of lakes, dammed by glacial -moraines and lava dikes, nestle in its shadow. This view "covers more -history," as Lyman points out, than that from any other of our peaks. -About its base the Indians hunted, fished and warred. Across its flank -rolled the great tide of Oregon immigration, in the days of the ox-team -and settler's wagon. It has seen the building of two states. It now -looks benignly down upon the prosperous agriculture and growing cities -of the modern Columbia basin, and no doubt contemplates with serenity -the time when its empire shall be one of the most populous as it is one -of the most beautiful and fertile regions in America. No wonder the -shapely mountain lifts its head with pride! - -[Illustration: Newton Clark glacier, east side of Mt. Hood, seen from -Cooper Spur, with Mt. Jefferson fifty miles south.] - -Returning to the glaciers of the north side, we note that all three end -at an altitude close to six thousand feet. None of them has cut a deep, -broad bed for itself like the great radiating canyons which dissect the -Rainier National Park and protect its glaciers down to a level averaging -four thousand feet. Instead, these glaciers lie up on the side of Mount -Hood, in shallow beds which they no longer fill; and are banked between -double and even triple border moraines, showing successive advances and -retreats of the glaciers. (See illustration, top of p. 59.) The larger -moraines stand fifty to a hundred feet above the present ice-streams, -thus indicating the former glacier levels. No vegetation appears on -these desolate rock and gravel dikes. The retreat of the glaciers was -therefore comparatively recent. - -[Illustration: Looking from Mount Jefferson, along the summits of the -Cascades, to Mount Hood.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Shadow of Mount Hood, seen from Newton Clark glacier shortly before -sunset. View shows two branches of East Fork of Hood River, fed by the -glacier, and the canyon of the East Fork, turning north. Beyond it -(left) are Tygh Hills and wheat fields of the Dufur country. On the -right is Juniper Flat, with the Deschutes canyon far beyond.] - -[Illustration: Snout of Newton Clark glacier.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD - -Mount Hood and Hood River, seen from a point twenty miles north of the -mountain.] - -Eliot glacier has been found by measurement near its end, to have a -movement of about fifty feet a year. On the steeper slope above, it is -doubtless much greater. All the three glaciers are heavily covered, for -their last half mile, with rocks and dirt which they have freighted down -from the cliffs above, or dug up from their own beds in transit. None of -the lateral moraines extends more than two or three hundred yards below -the snout of its glacier. Each glacier, at its end, drops its remnant of -ice into a deep V-shaped ravine, in which, not far below, trees of good -size are growing. Hence it would not seem that these north-side -glaciers have ever extended much farther than they do at present. The -ravine below Eliot glacier, however, half a mile from the snout, is said -to show glacial markings on its rocky sides. It is evident, in any case, -that the deep V cuttings now found below the glaciers are work of the -streams. If these glaciers extended farther, it was at higher levels -than their present stream channels. As the glaciers receded, their -streams have cut the deep gorges in the soft conglomerates. Between -Eliot and Coe glaciers are large snow-fields, ending much farther up -than do the glaciers; and below these, too, the streams have trenched -the slope. (See illustration, p. 57.) - -[Illustration: Lava Flume near Trout Lake, about thirty feet wide and -forty feet high.] - -[Illustration: Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red Butte, an -extinct volcano on north side of Mount Adams.] - -Between Coe and Ladd glaciers is a high rocky ridge known as Barrett -Spur, from which, at nearly 8,000 feet, one may obtain glorious views of -the peak above, the two glaciers sweeping down its steep face and the -sea of ranges stretching westward. (See illustrations, pp. 69 and 75.) -Barrett Spur may have been part of the original surface of the mountain, -but is more likely the remnant of a secondary cone, ice and weathering -having destroyed its conical shape. From its top, the climber looks over -into the broad-bottomed canyon of Sandy River, fed by the large and -small Sandy glaciers of the west slope. (See pp. 71 and 76.) This canyon -and that of the Zigzag River, south of it, from Zigzag glacier, are -"plainly glacier-sculptured," as Sylvester declares. The same is true of -the canyon lying below the White River glacier, on the southeast slope. -In journeying to Government Camp, one may see abundant evidence of the -glacial origin of the Sandy and Zigzag canyons. The White River Canyon -has been thoroughly explored and described by Prof. Reid. - -All three of these wide U-shaped canyons were once occupied by great -glaciers, which left their record in the scorings upon the sides of the -gorges; in the mesas of finely ground moraine which they spread over the -bottoms and through which the modern rivers have cut deep ravines; in -trees broken and buried by the glaciers in this drift; in the fossil ice -lying beneath it, and in huge angular boulders left standing on the -valley floors, several miles from the mountain. - -[Illustration: Ice Cave in lava beds near Trout Lake.] - -Sandy glacier extends three hundred feet farther down the slope than do -the north-side glaciers, but the Zigzag and White River glaciers, -flowing out of the crater, end a thousand feet higher. This is due not -only to the smaller reservoirs which feed them and to their southern -exposure, but also doubtless to the easier grade, which holds the ice -longer on the slope. On the east side of the peak is a broad ice-stream, -the Newton Clark glacier, which also ends at a high altitude, dropping -its ice over a cliff into deep ravines at the head of East Fork of Hood -River. This glacier, well seen from Cooper Spur, completes the circuit -of the mountain. (See pp. 83 and 84.) - -[Illustration: Mount Adams, elevation 12,307 feet.] - -Sylvester suggests that Mount Hood may not be extinct but sleeping. For -this, however, there is little more evidence that may be discovered on -other Northwestern peaks. About Crater Rock, steam jets are found, gas -escapes, and the rocks are warm in many places. "Fumaroles" exist, where -the residuary heat causes openings in the snow bed. Sylvester reports -dense smoke and steam issuing from Crater Rock by day and a brilliant -illumination there at night, in August, 1907. But volcanoes sometimes -contradict prophecy, and no further intimations of trouble having since -been offered, this display may be deemed the last gasp of a dying -monster rather than an awakening toward new life. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Telephoto view of Mount Adams, from the northeast side of Mount St. -Helens, at elevation of 7,000 feet, overlooking the densely timbered -ranges of the Cascades.] - - -MOUNT ADAMS. - -[Illustration: Mount Adams from Trout Creek, at Guler, near Trout Lake; -distance twelve miles.] - -[Illustration: Climbers on South Butte, the hard lava neck of a crater -on south slope, left by weathering of the softer materials of its cone. -Elevation, 7,800 feet. The usual route to summit leads up the talus on -right.] - -Going up the White Salmon Valley toward Mount Adams, the visitor quickly -realizes that he is in a different geological district from that around -Mount Hood. The Oregon peak is mainly a pile of volcanic rocks and -cinders ejected from its crater. Little hard basalt is found, and in all -its circumference I know of only one large surface area of new lava. -This is a few miles north of Cloud Cap, and so recent that no trees -grow on it. But north of the Columbia, one meets evidences of -comparatively recent lava sheets in many parts of the valley. Some -obviously have no connection with Mount Adams; they flowed out of -fissures on the ridges. But these beds of volcanic rock become more -apparent, and are less covered with soil, as we approach the mountain, -until, long before timber line is reached, dikes and streams of basalt, -as yet hardly beginning to disintegrate, are found on all sides of the -peak. - -[Illustration: Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from Guler, at 4 a. -m., showing the three summit peaks, of which the middle one is the -highest. The route of the climbers is up the south slope, seen on -right.] - -[Illustration: Foraging in the snow. The Mount Adams country supports -hundreds of large flocks of sheep.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER - -Steel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount Hood. In the distance is seen -Juniper Flat, in eastern Oregon.] - -The form and slope of Mount Adams tell of an age far greater than Mount -Hood's, but its story is not, like that of Hood, the legible record of a -simple volcanic cone. It wholly lacks the symmetry of such a pile. -Viewed from a distance, it sits very majestically upon the summit of one -of the eastern ranges of the Cascades. As we approach, however, it is -seen to have little of the conical shape of Hood, still less that of -graceful St. Helens, which is young and as yet practically unbroken. Its -summit has been much worn down by ice or perhaps by explosions. Some -of its sides are deeply indented, and all are vastly irregular in angle -and markings--here a face now too steeply cut to hold a glacier, but -showing old glacial scorings far down its slope; there another terraced -and ribbed with waves and dikes of lava. The mountain is a long ridge -rather than a round peak, and close inspection shows it to be a -composite of several great cones, leaning one upon another,--the product -of many craters acting in successive ages. On its ancient, scarred -slopes, a hundred modern vents have added to the ruggedness and interest -of the peak. Many of these blowholes built parasitic cones, from which -the snows of later centuries have eroded the loose external mass, -leaving only the hard lava cores upstanding like obelisks. Other vents -belched out vast sheets of rock that will require a century more of -weathering to make hospitable even to the sub-alpine trees most humble -in their demands for soil. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER. - -Ice Castle and great Crevasse, near the head of Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood. - - - "Touched by a light that hath no name, - A glory never sung, - Aloft on sky and mountain wall - Are God's great pictures hung."--Whittier.] - -[Illustration: Mazamas climbing a 40 deg. stairway of shattered basalt, -north side of Mount Adams.] - -[Illustration: Mount Adams from one of the many lakes on its southeast -slope. On ridge above, near the end of Mazama glacier, a hotel is to be -erected.] - -Mount Adams therefore presents a greater variety of history, a more -complex and fascinating problem for the student to unravel, than any of -its neighbors. This interest extends to the district about it, a -country of new lava flows covering much of the older surface. The same -conditions mark the region surrounding the newer peak, St. Helens, -thirty miles west. In each district, sheets of molten rock have been -poured across an ancient and heavily forested land. Thus as we travel up -the rich valleys leading from the Columbia to either peak, we meet -everywhere the phenomena of vulcanism. - -[Illustration: Climbers ascending from South Peak to Middle Peak on -Mount Adams, with the "bergschrund" above Klickitat glacier on right. -This central dome is about 500 feet higher than South Peak.] - -[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from Happy Valley, south side. -Elevation about 7,000 feet. Mazama glacier is on right.] - -The lava sheet flowing around or over a standing or fallen tree took a -perfect impression of its trunk and bark. Thousands of these old tree -casts are found near both Adams and St. Helens. Where the lava reached a -watercourse, it flowed down in a deeper stream, a river of liquid rock. -Lava is a poor conductor of heat; hence the stream cooled more quickly -on the surface than below. Soon a crust was formed, like the ice over a -creek in winter. Under it the lava flowed on and out, as the flood -stopped, leaving a gallery or flume. Later flows filled the great drain -again and again, adding new strata to its roof, floor and sides, and -lessening its bore. Long after the outflows ceased, weathering by heat -and frost broke openings here and there. Many of the flumes were choked -with drift. But others, in the newer lava beds, may be explored for -miles. It was from the lava caves of northern California that the Modoc -Indians waged their famous war in the Seventies. - -[Illustration: Mount Adams, from Snow-Plow Mountain, three miles -southeast of the snow line; elevation 5,070 feet, overlooking the broad -"park" country west of Hellroaring Canyon.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, S. C. SMITH - -Wind-whittled ice near the summit of Mount Adams.] - -The disintegration of the lava galleries in the Mount Adams field has of -course produced caves of all sorts and sizes. Where one of these is -closed at one end with debris, so that the summer air cannot circulate -to displace the heavier cold remaining from winter, the cave, if it has -a water supply, becomes an ice factory. The Trout Lake district has -several interesting examples of such _glacieres_, as they have been -named, where one may take refuge from July or August heat above ground, -and, forty feet below, in a cave well protected from sun and summer -breeze, find great masses of ice, with more perhaps still forming as -water filters in from a surface lake or an underground spring. The -Columbia River towns as far away as Portland and The Dalles formerly -obtained ice from the Trout Lake caves, but at present they supply only -some near-by farmers. - -[Illustration: Mazama glacier, at head of Hellroaring Canyon. Upper view -shows floor of canyon, a mile below the glacier, with the "Ridge of -Wonders" on right. Lower view is from ridge west of the canyon, near end -of Mazama glacier, elevation nearly 7,000 feet. Note great lateral -moraine which the glacier has built on left.] - -Mount Adams is ascended without difficulty by either its north or south -slope. On the east and west faces, the cliffs and ice cascades appall -even the expert alpinist. As yet, so far as I can learn, no ascents have -been made over these slopes. The southern route is the more popular one. -It leads by well-marked trails up from Guler or Glenwood, over a -succession of terraces clad in fine, open forest; ascends McDonald -Ridge, amid increasing barriers of lava; passes South Butte, a decaying -pillar of red silhouetted against the black rocks and white snow-fields; -crosses many a caldron of twisted and broken basalt,--"Devil's Half -Acres" that once were the hot, vomiting mouths of drains from the fiery -heart of the peak; scales a giants' stairway tilted to forty degrees, -overlooking the west branch of Mazama glacier on one side and a small -unnamed glacier on the other; and at last gains the broad shoulder which -projects far on the south slope. (See illustrations, pp. 89 and 93.) - -[Illustration: Nearing the summit, south side.] - -[Illustration: Upper Ice Cascade of Klickitat glacier.] - -Here, from a height of nine thousand feet, we look down on the low, wide -reservoir of Mazama glacier on the east, and up to the ice-falls above -Klickitat glacier on the higher slopes beyond. The great platform on -which we stand was built up by a crater, three thousand feet below the -summit. The climb to it has disclosed the fact that the mountain is -composed mostly of lava. Some of the ravine cuttings have shown lapilli -and cinders, but these are rarer than on the other Northwestern peaks. -The harder structure has resisted the erosion which is cutting so deeply -into the lower slopes of Hood. On Mount Adams, not only do the glaciers, -with one or two notable exceptions, lie up on the general surface of the -mountain, banked by their moraines; but their streams have cut few deep -ravines. - -[Illustration: An Upland "Park," west of Hellroaring Canyon.] - -[Illustration: Mount Adams, from the Ridge of Wonders, showing the great -amphitheater or "cirque" of Klickitat glacier, fed by avalanches from -the summit plateau. This is the most important example of glacial -sculpture on the mountain. Beyond, on the right, is seen the head of -Rusk glacier, while on the left is Mazama glacier. Note the stunted -sub-alpine trees scattered thinly over this ridge, even up to an -altitude of 7,000 feet.] - -[Illustration: Storm on Klickitat Glacier, seen from the Ridge of -Wonders.] - -From this point, the route becomes steeper, but is still over talus, -until the first of the three summit elevations, known as South Peak, is -reached. This is only five hundred feet below the actual summit, Middle -Peak, which is gained by a short, hard pull, generally over snow. -(See p. 94.) The north-side route is up a long, sharp ridge between Lava -and Adams glaciers (p. 104). Like the other path, its grade is at first -easy; but its last half mile of elevation is achieved over a slope even -steeper, and ending in a longer climb over the snow. Neither route, -however, offers so hard a finish as that which ends the Mount Hood -climb. From the timber-line on either side, the ascent requires six or -seven hours. - -[Illustration: Snow cornice above the bergschrund at head of Klickitat -glacier, with another part of the same crevasse.] - -The summit ridge is nearly a mile long and two-thirds as wide. It is the -gathering ground of the snows that feed Klickitat, Lyman, Adams and -White Salmon glaciers. (See map, p. 87.) Mazama, Rusk, Lava, Pinnacle -and Avalanche glaciers lie beneath cliffs too steep to carry -ice-streams. Their income is mainly collected from the slopes, and if -they receive snow from the broad summit at all, it is chiefly in the -avalanches of early summer. Nearly all the glaciers, however, are thus -fed in part, the steep east and west faces making Mount Adams famous for -its avalanches. - -[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from the northeast, with the Lyman -glaciers in center, Rusk glacier on extreme left, and Lava glacier, -right. The ridge beyond Lava glacier is the north-side route to the -summit. The Lyman glaciers, like Adams glacier on the northwest side, -are noteworthy for their cascades of ice.] - -From the summit on either side, the climber may look down sheer for half -a mile to the reservoirs and great ice cascades of the glaciers below. -It is seen that with the exception of the Rusk and Klickitat, which -are deeply embedded in canyons, the glaciers spread out, fan-like, on -the lower slopes, and are held up by their moraines. Most of them end at -elevations considerably above six thousand five hundred feet. The -difference in this respect between Adams and Hood is due, no doubt, to -lighter rainfall. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS - -Mount Adams from Sunnyside, Washington, with irrigation "ditch" in -foreground.] - -[Illustration: Crevasse in Lava glacier, north side of Mount Adams.] - -Of the two glaciers just mentioned the Klickitat is the larger and more -typical. The Rusk, however, is of interest because it flows, greatly -crevassed, down a narrow flume or couloir on the east slope. Its bed, -Reid suggests, may have been the channel of "a former lava flow, which, -hardening on the surface, allowed the liquid lava inside to flow out; -and later the top broke in." The Klickitat glacier lies in a much larger -canyon, which it has evidently cut for itself. This is one of the most -characteristic glacial amphitheaters in America, resembling, though on a -smaller scale, the vast Carbon glacier _cirque_ which is the crowning -glory of the Rainier National Park. The Klickitat basin is a mile wide. -Into it two steep ice-streams cascade from the summit, and avalanches -fall from a cliff which rises two thousand feet between them. (See pp. -98 and 99.) - -[Illustration: North Peak of Mount Adams, with The Mountaineers -beginning their ascent, in 1911. Their route led up the ridge seen here, -which divides Lava glacier, on the left, from Adams glacier, on extreme -right.] - -The glacier is more than two miles long. It ends at an elevation of less -than six thousand feet, covered with debris from a large medial moraine -formed by the junction of the two tributary glaciers. Like the other -Mount Adams glaciers, and indeed nearly all glaciers in the northern -hemisphere, it is shrinking, and has built several moraines on each -side. These extend half a mile below its present snout, and the inner -moraines are underlaid with ice, showing the retreat has been recent. - -South of the Klickitat glacier, a part of the original surface of the -peak remains in the great Ridge of Wonders. Rising a thousand feet above -the floor of Hellroaring Canyon, which was formerly occupied by Mazama -glacier, now withdrawn to the slope above, this is the finest -observation point on the mountain. "The wonderful views of the eastern -precipices and glaciers," says Reid, "the numerous dikes, the well -preserved parasitic cone of Little Mount Adams, and the curious forms of -volcanic bombs scattered over its surface entirely justify the name Mr. -Rusk has given to this ridge." - -[Illustration: Snow Bridge over Killing Creek, north of Mount Adams.] - -Adams glacier, upon the northwest slope, with a length of three miles, -is the largest on the mountain. This and the two beautiful ice streams -on the northeast, named after Prof. W. D. Lyman, are notable for their -ice-falls, half-mile drops of tumbling, frozen rivers. - -The naming of the mountain was a result of the movement started by Hall -J. Kelley, the Oregon enthusiast, in 1839. The northwestern snow-peaks, -so far as shown in maps of the period, bore the names given by -Vancouver as part of his annexation for George III. The utility, beauty -and historic fitness of the significant Indian place names did not occur -to a generation busy in ousting the Indian from his land; but our -grandfathers remembered George III. Kelley and other patriotic men of -the time proposed to call the Cascades the "Presidents' Range," and to -christen the several snow-peaks for individual ex-presidents of the -United States. But the second quarter of the last century knew little -about Oregon, and cared less. The well-meant but premature effort -failed, and the only names of the presidents which have stuck are Adams -and Jefferson. Lewis and Clark mistook Mount Adams for St. Helens, and -estimated it "perhaps the highest pinnacle in America." The Geological -Survey has found its height to be 12,307 feet. Mount Adams was first -climbed in 1854 by a party in which were Col. B. F. Shaw, Glenn Aiken -and Edward J. Allen. - -[Illustration: North-side Cleaver, with Lava glacier on left. This sharp -spine was climbed by The Mountaineers and the North Yakima Y. M. C. A. -party in 1911.] - - -MOUNT ST. HELENS. - -The world was indebted for its first knowledge of Mount St. Helens to -Vancouver. Its name is one of the batch which he fastened in 1792 upon -our Northwestern landmarks. These honored a variety of persons, ranging -from Lord St. Helens, the diplomat, and pudgy Peter Rainier, of the -British Admiralty, down to members of the explorer's crew. - -[Illustration: Looking across Adams glacier, northwest side of Mount -Adams, from ridge shown above.] - -[Illustration: "The Mountain that Was 'God'," the great peak which the -Indians reverenced and named "Tacoma," seen above the clouds of a rainy -day, from the summit of Mount Adams, distant forty miles. - - "This," said a well-known lecturer, as the picture was - thrown upon his screen, "is the scene the angels look - down upon!"] - -The youngest of the Cascade snow-peaks, St. Helens is also the most -symmetrical in its form, and to many of its admirers the most beautiful. -Unlike Hood and Adams, it does not stand upon the narrow summit of one -of the Cascade ranges, but rises west of the main ridges of that -system from valley levels about one thousand feet above the sea. -Surrounded by comparatively low ridges, it thus presents its perfect and -impressive cone for almost its entire height of ten thousand feet. - -[Illustration: Northwest slope of Mount Adams, with Adams glacier, three -miles long, the largest on the mountain. It has an ice-fall of two -thousand feet. The low-lying reservoir of Pinnacle glacier is on extreme -right, and the head of Lava glacier on left.] - -The mountain is set well back from the main traveled roads, in the great -forest of southwestern Washington. It is the center of a fine lake and -river district which attracts sportsmen as well as mountain climbers. A -large company visiting it must carry in supplies and camp equipment, but -small parties may find accommodation at Spirit Lake on the north, and -Peterson's ranch on Lewis River, south of the peak. The first is four, -the second is eight, miles from the snow line. Visitors from Portland, -Tacoma or Seattle, bound for the north side, leave the railway at Castle -Rock, whence a good automobile road (forty-eight miles) leads to the -south side of Spirit Lake. Peterson's may be reached by road from -Woodland (forty-five miles) or from Yacolt (thirty miles). Well-marked -trails lead from either base to camping grounds at timber line. The -mountain is climbed by a long, easy slope on the south, or by a much -steeper path on the north. - -Like Mount Adams, St. Helens is largely built of lava, but the outflows -have been more recent here than upon or near the greater peak. The -volcano was in eruption several times between 1830 and 1845. The sky at -Vancouver was often darkened, and ashes were carried as far as The -Dalles. To these disturbances, probably, are due the great outflows of -new lava covering the south and west sides of the mountain, and much of -the country between it and the North Fork of Lewis River. The molten -stream flowed westward to Goat Mountain and the "Buttes," of which it -made islands; threw a dike across a watercourse and created Lake -Merrill; and turning southward, filled valleys and overwhelmed good -forest with sheets of basalt. Upon the slope just north of Peterson's, a -great synclinal thus buried presents one of the latest pages in the -volcanic history of the Columbia basin. - -[Illustration: Mount Adams from the southwest, with White Salmon glacier -(left) and Avalanche glacier (right) flowing from a common source, the -cleft between North and Middle Peaks. The latter, however, derives most -of its support from slopes farther to right. Note the huge terminal -moraines built by these glaciers in their retreat. Pinnacle glacier is -on extreme left.] - -[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, elevation 10,000 feet.] - -Many hours may be spent with interest upon this lava bed. It is an area -of the wildest violence, cast in stone. Swift, ropy streams, cascades, -whirling eddies, all have been caught in their course. "Devil's Punch -Bowl," "Hell's Kitchen," "Satan's Stairway" are suggestive phrases of -local description. The underground galleries here are well worth -visiting. Tree tunnels and wells abound. Most important of all, the -struggle seen everywhere of the forest to gain a foothold on this iron -surface illustrates Nature's method of hiding so vast and terrible a -callus upon her face. It is evident that the healing of the wound began -as soon as the lava cooled, and that, while still incomplete, it is -unceasingly prosecuted. (See p. 111.) - -[Illustration: Scenes in the canyon of the North Fork of Lewis River, -fed by the glaciers of Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD - -Columbia River and Mount Adams, seen from Hood River, Oregon. - - "And forests ranged like armies, round and round - At feet of mountains of eternal snow; - And valleys all alive with happy sound,-- - The song of birds; swift streams' delicious flow; - The mystic hum of million things that grow."--Helen Hunt Jackson.] - -The first volcanic dust from the uneasy crater of St. Helens had no -sooner lodged in some cleft opened by the contraction of cooling than a -spore or seed carried by the wind or dropped by a bird made a start -toward vegetation. Failing moisture, and checked by lack of soil, the -lichen or grass or tiny shrub quickly yielded its feeble existence in -preparation for its successor. The procession of rain and sun encouraged -other futile efforts to find rootage. Each of these growths -lengthened by its decay the life of the next. With winter came frost, -scaling flakes from the hard surface, or penetrating the joints and -opening fissures in the basalt. Further refuge was thus made ready for -the dust and seeds and moisture of another season. The moss and plants -were promoters as well as beneficiaries of this disintegration. Their -smallest rootlets found the water in the heart of the rocks, and growing -strong upon it, shattered their benefactors. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO. - -Southwest side of Mount Adams, reflected in Trout Lake, twelve miles -south of the mountain.] - -[Illustration: Scenes on great lava field south of Mount St. Helens. The -lodgepole pine thicket above shows struggle of forest to gain a foothold -on the rich soil slowly forming over new volcanic rock. The peak itself, -with stunted forest at its base, is seen next; and below, one of many -"tree tunnels," formed when the lava flowed over or around a tree, -taking a perfect cast of its bark.] - -Soon more ambitious enterprises were undertaken. Huckleberry bushes, -fearless even of so unfriendly a surface, started from every depression -among the rocks. The first small trees appeared. Weakling pines, dwarf -firs and alders, shot up for a few feet of hurried growth in the spring -moisture, taking the unlikely chance of surviving the later drought. -Here and there a seedling outlasted the long, dry summer, and began to -be a real tree. Quickly exhausting its little handful of new earth, the -daring upstart must have perished had not the melting snows brought -help. They filled the hollows with wash from the higher slopes. The -treelets found that their day had come, and seizing upon these rich but -shallow soil beds, soon covered them with thickets of spindling -lodgepole pines and deciduous brush. Such pygmy forests are at length -common upon this great field of torn and decaying rock, and all are -making their contributions of humus year by year to the support of -future tree giants. These will rise by survival of the fittest as the -forest floor deepens and spreads. - -[Illustration: Lava Flume south of Mount St. Helens, a tunnel several -miles in length, about twenty feet high and fifteen feet wide.] - -[Illustration: Entrance to Lava Cave shown above. Note strata in roof, -showing successive lava flows; also ferns growing from roof.] - -[Illustration: Telephotograph of Mount St. Helens, from the lower part -of Portland, with the summit peaks of Mount Rainier-Tacoma in distance -on left, and the Willamette River in foreground.] - -St. Helens, although much visited, has not yet been officially surveyed -or mapped. Its glaciers are not named, nor has the number of true -ice-streams been determined. Those on the south and southwest are -insignificant. Elsewhere, the glaciers are short and broad, and with one -exception, occupy shallow beds. On the southeast, there is a remarkable -cleft, shown on page 115, which is doubtless due to volcanic causes -rather than erosion, and from which the largest glacier issues. Another -typical glacier, distinguished by the finest crevasses and ice-falls on -the peak, tumbles down a steep, shallow depression on the north slope, -west of the battered parasitic cone of "Black Butte." West of this -glacier, in turn, ridges known as the "Lizard" and the "Boot" mark the -customary north-side path to the summit. (See p. 118.) Beyond these -landmarks, on the west side of the peak, a third considerable glacier -feeds South Toutle River. The ravines cut by this stream will repay a -visit. (See p. 116.) - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, JAS. WAGGENER, JR. - -Mount St. Helens, from Chelatchie Prairie on Lewis River, distance -twenty miles. Shows a typical farm clearing in the forest.] - -[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin Buttes, twenty miles -away, across the Cascades. View shows the remarkable cleft or canyon on -the southeast face of the peak.] - -The slopes not covered with new lava sheets and dikes exhibit, below the -snow-line, countless bombs hurled up from the crater, with great fields -of pumice embedding huge angular rocks that tell a story not written on -our other peaks. These hard boulders, curiously different from the soft -materials in which they lie, were fragments of the tertiary platform on -which the cone was erected. Torn off by the volcano, as it enlarged its -bore, they were shot out without melting or change in substance. On -every hand is proof that this now peaceful snow-mountain, which -resembles nothing else so much as a well-filled saucer of ice cream, had -a hot temper in its youth, and has passed some bad days even since the -coming of the white man. - -The mountain was first climbed in August, 1853, by a party which -included the same T. J. Dryer who, a year later, took part in the first -ascent of Mount Hood. In a letter to _The Oregonian_ he said the party -consisted of "Messrs. Wilson, Smith, Drew and myself." They ascended the -south side. The other slopes were long thought too steep to climb, but -in 1893 Fred G. Plummer, of Tacoma, now Geographer of the United States -Forest Service, ascended the north side. His party included Leschi, a -Klickitat Indian, probably the first of his superstitious race to scale -a snow-peak. The climbers found evidence of recent activity in two -craters on the north slope, and photographed a curious "diagonal -moraine," as regular in shape as a railway embankment, which connected -the border moraines of a small glacier. The north side has since seen -frequent ascents. - -[Illustration: Canyons of South Toutle River, west side of St. Helens. -These vast trenches in the soft pumice show by their V shape that they -have been cut by streams from the glaciers above, rather than by the -glaciers themselves, which, on this young peak, have probably never had -a much greater extension.] - -The Mazamas, who had climbed St. Helens from the south in 1898, again -ascended it in 1908, climbing by the Lizard and Boot. This outing -furnished the most stirring chapter in the annals of American -mountaineering. - -[Illustration: Lower Toutle Canyon, seen on left above. Note shattered -volcanic bomb.] - -[Illustration: Northeast side of Mount St. Helens, from elevation of -6,000 feet, with Black Butte on the right.] - -[Illustration: The Mazamas on summit of St. Helens shortly before -sunset. The rocks showing above the snow are parts of the rim of the -extinct crater. Mount Adams is seen, thirty-five miles away, on the -right, while Rainier-Tacoma is forty-five miles north. Photograph taken -at 7:15 p. m. The party did not get back to their camp till long after -midnight.] - -The north-side route proved unexpectedly hard. After an all-day climb, -the party reached the summit only at seven o'clock. The descent after -nightfall required seven hours. The risk was great. Over the collar of -ice near the summit, at a grade of more than sixty degrees, the -twenty-five men and women slowly crept in steps cut by the leaders, and -clutching a single fifty-foot rope. Later came the bombardment of loose -rocks, as the party scattered down the slope. I quote from an account by -Frank B. Riley, secretary of the club, who was one of the leaders: - - The safety of the entire party was in the keeping of - each member. One touch of hysteria, one slip of the - foot, one instant's loss of self-control, would have - precipitated the line, like a row of bricks, on the - long plunge down the ice cliff. Eight times the party - stood poised on its scanty foothold while the rope was - lowered. When, after an hour and a half, its last - member stepped in safety upon the rocks, there yet lay - before it five hours of work ere the little red eyes - below should widen into welcoming campfires. - - Over great ridges, down into vast snowfields, for - hours they plunged and slid, while scouts ahead - shouted back warning of the crevasses. On, out of the - icy clutch of the silent mountain, they plodded. And - then, at last, the timber, and the fires and the hot - drinks and the warm blankets and the springy hemlock - boughs! - -[Illustration: North side of St. Helens in winter, seen from Coldwater -Ridge, overlooking Spirit Lake. Shows the long ridge called "the -Lizard," because of its shape, with "the Boot" above it. On the -northeast slope is "Black Butte," probably a secondary crater.] - -[Illustration: St. Helens, north side, seen from one mile below snow -line. Note the slight progress made by the forest upon the scant soil of -the pumice ridges; also, how greatly the angle of the sides, as viewed -here at the foot of the peak, differs from that shown in Dr. Lauman's -fine picture taken on Coldwater Ridge, five miles north. Both show the -mountain from the same direction, but the near view gives no true idea -of its steepness. Black Butte is on the left.] - -[Illustration: Glacier scenes, north side of Mount St. Helens, east of -the "Lizard."] - -Even this was not the most noteworthy adventure of the outing. One -evening, while the Mazamas gathered about their campfire at Spirit Lake, -a haggard man dragged himself out of the forest, and told of an injured -comrade lying helpless on the other side of the peak. The messenger and -two companions--Swedish loggers, all three--had crossed the mountain the -morning before. After they gained the summit and began the descent, a -plunging rock had struck one of the men, breaking his leg. His friends -had dragged him down to the first timber, and while one kept watch, the -other had encircled the mountain, in search of aid from the Mazamas. - -Immediately a relief party of seven strong men, led by C. E. Forsyth of -Castle Rock, Washington, started back over the trailless route by which -the messenger had come. All night they scaled ridges, climbed into and -out of canyons, waded icy streams. Before dawn they reached the wounded -laborer. Mr. Riley says: - - It was impossible to carry the man back through the - wild country around the peak. Below, the first cabin - on the Lewis River lay beyond a moat of forbidding - canyons. Above slanted the smooth slopes of St. - Helens. Placing the injured man upon a litter of - canvas and alpine stocks, they began the ascent of the - mountain with their burden. The day dawned and grew - old, and still these men crawled upward in frightful, - body-breaking struggle. Twelve hours passed, and they - had no food and no sleep, save as they fell - unconscious downward in the snow, as they did many - times, from fatigue and lack of nourishment. At four - o'clock, Anderson was again on the summit. Then, - without rest, came the descent to the north. Down - precipitous cliffs of ice they lowered him, as - tenderly as might be; down snow-slopes seared with - crevasses, shielding him from the falling rocks; over - ridges of ragged lava, until in the deepening darkness - of the second night they found themselves again at - timber. But in the net-work of canyons they had - selected the wrong one, and were lost. Here, at three - o'clock, they were found by a second relief party, and - guided over a painful five-mile journey home. - -[Illustration: Finest of the St. Helens glaciers, north side, with Black -Butte on left. It is proposed to call this "Forsyth glacier," in honor -of C. E. Forsyth, leader in a memorable rescue.] - -It was day when camp was reached. In an improvised hospital, a young -surgeon, aided by a trained nurse, both Mazamas, quickly set the broken -bones. Then they sent their patient comfortably away to the railroad and -a Portland hospital. Before the wagon started, Anderson, who had uttered -no groan in his two days of agony, struggled to a sitting posture, and -searched the faces of all in the crowd about him. - -"Ay don't want ever to forget how you look," he said simply; "you who -have done all this yust for me." - -It is fitting that such an event should be commemorated. With the -approval of Mr. Riley and other Mazamas who were present at the time, I -would propose that the north-side glacier already described, the most -beautiful of the St. Helens ice-streams, be named "Forsyth glacier," in -honor of the leader of this heroic rescue. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS - -Road among the Douglas Firs.] - - - - -[Illustration: Ships loading lumber at one of Portland's large mills.] - - - - -III. - -THE FORESTS - -By HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE - - As the lowlander cannot be said to have truly seen the - element of water at all, so even in his richest parks - and avenues he cannot be said to have truly seen - trees. For the resources of trees are not developed - until they have difficulty to contend with; neither - their tenderness of brotherly love and harmony, till - they are forced to choose their ways of life where - there is contracted room. The various action of trees, - rooting themselves in inhospitable rocks, stooping to - look into ravines, hiding from the search of glacial - winds, reaching forth to the rays of rare sunshine, - crowding down together to drink at sweetest streams, - climbing hand in hand the difficult slopes, gliding in - grave procession over the heavenward ridges--nothing - of this can be conceived among the unvexed and - unvaried felicities of the lowland forest.--_Ruskin: - "Modern Painters."_ - - -[Illustration: Outposts of the Forest. Storm-swept White-bark Pines on -Mount Hood.] - -STAND upon the icy summit of any one of the Columbia's snow-peaks, and -look north or west or south across the expanse of blue-green mountains -and valleys reaching to the sea; your eyes will rest upon the greatest -forest the temperate zone has produced within the knowledge of man. Save -where axe and fire have turned woodland into field or ghostly "burn," -the mantle is spread. Along the broad crests of the Cascades, down the -long spurs that lead to the valleys, and across the Coast Range, lies a -wealth of timber equaled in no other region. The outposts of this great -army of trees will meet you far below. - -[Illustration: Alpine Hemlocks at the timber-line on Mt. Adams. Mt. Hood -in distance.] - -Rimming about your peak, braving winds and the snows that drift in the -lee of old moraines, and struggling to break through the timber-line, -six thousand feet above the sea, somber mountain hemlocks (_Tsuga -mertensiana_) and lighter white-bark pines (_Pinus albicaulis_) form the -thin vanguard of the forest. They meet the glaciers. They border the -snow-fields. They hide beneath their stunted, twisted forms the first -deep gashes carved in the mountain slopes by eroding streams. Valiant -protectors of less sturdy trees and plants, their whitened weather-sides -bear witness to a fierce struggle for life on the bleak shoulders of the -peaks. - -[Illustration: Mazama Party resting among the sub-alpine firs in a -flower-carpeted "park" at the foot of Mount St. Helens] - -Make your way, as the streamlets do, down to the alpine glades, on the -high plateaus, where anemone, erythronium and calochortus push their -buds through lingering snow-crusts. The scattered trees gather in their -first groups. Just within their shelter pause for a moment. Vague -distance is narrowed to a diminutive circle. The mystery of vastness -passes. Sharp indeed is the division between storm-swept barren and -forest shelter. - -[Illustration: A Lowland Ravine. Cedars, Vine Maples, Devil's Club and -Ferns, near Mount St. Helens.] - -Here ravines, decked with heather, hold streams from the -snowdrifts--streams that hunt the steepest descents, and glory in their -leaps from rock to rock and from cliff to pool. If it be the spring-time -of the mountains--late July--the mossy rills will be half concealed -beneath fragrant white azaleas that nod in the breezes blowing up with -the ascending sun and down with the turn of day. Trailing over the -rocks, or banked in the shelter of larger trees, creeping juniper -(_Juniperus communis_), least of our evergreens, stays the drifting -sands against the drive of winds or the wash of melting snows. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER - -The "Noble" Fir.] - -Along the streams and on sunny slopes and benches are the homes of the -pointed firs. Seeking protection from the storm, the spire-like trees -cluster in tiny groves, among which, like little bays of a lake, the -grassy flowered meadows run in and out, sun-lit, and sweet with rivulets -from the snows above. If you do not know these upland "parks," there is -rare pleasure awaiting you. A hundred mountain blossoms work figures of -white and red and orange and blue in the soft tapestry of green. In -such glades the hush is deep. Only the voice of a waterfall comes up -from the canyon, or the whistle of a marmot, the call of the -white-winged crows and the drone of insects break the stillness. - -[Illustration: Dense Hemlock Forest, lower west slope of Mount Hood.] - -[Illustration: Mount Hood from Ghost-tree Ridge. Whitened trunks of -trees killed by forest fires.] - -[Illustration: An Island of Color in the Forest. Rhododendrons and Squaw -Grass on the west slope of Mount Hood. - - "The common growth of mother-earth - Suffices me,--her tears, her mirth, - Her humblest mirth and tears."--Wordsworth.] - -The outer rank of hemlock and fir droops its branches to the ground to -break the tempest's attack. Within, silver or lovely fir (_Abies -amabilis_) mingles with hardier forms. Its gray, mottled trunks are -flecked with the yellow-green of lichen or festooned with wisps -of moss down to the level of the big snows. And here, a vertical -mile above the sea, you meet the daring western hemlock (_Tsuga -heterophylla_), which braves the gale of ocean and mountain alike, -indifferent to all but fire. It is of gentle birth yet humble spirit. It -accepts all trees as neighbors. You meet it everywhere as you journey to -the sea. But on the uplands only, in a narrow belt like a scarf thrown -across the shoulders of the mountain, sub-alpine fir (_Abies -lasiocarpa_) sends up its dark, attenuated spires, in striking contrast -with the rounded crowns of its companions. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS - -Group of Red Cedars, five to eight feet in diameter.] - -[Illustration: On the road to Government Camp, west of Mount Hood. -Broadleaf Maple on extreme right; Douglas Firs arching the roadway, and -White Fir on left.] - -A little lower, the transition zone offers a noteworthy intermingling of -species. Down from the stormy heights come alpine trees to lock branches -with types from warmer levels. Here you see lodgepole pine (_Pinus -murrayana_), that wonderful restorer of waste places which sends forth -countless tiny seedlings to cover fire-swept areas and lava fields with -forerunners of a forest. Here, too, you will find western white pine -(_Pinus monticola_), the fair lady of the genus, whose soft, delicate -foliage, finely chiseled trunk, and golden brown cones denote its -gentleness; and Engelmann spruce (_Picea Engelmannii_) of greener blue -than any other, and hung with pendants of soft seed cones, saved from -pilfering rodents by pungent, bristling needles. - -Here also are western larch or tamarack (_Larix occidentalis_); or, -rarely, on our northern peaks, Lyall's larch (_Larix Lyallii_), whose -naked branches send out tiny fascicles of soft pale leaves; and Noble -fir (_Abies nobilis_), stately, magnificent, proud of its supremacy over -all. And you may come upon a rare cluster of Alaska cedar (_Chamaecyparis -nootkatensis_), here at its southern limit, reaching down from the -Coast range of British Columbia almost to meet the Great sugar pines -(_Pinus lambertiana_) which come up from the granite heights of the -California sierra to play an important role in the southern Oregon -forests. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, WEISTER - -Where man's a pygmy. - -A Noble Fir, 175 feet to first limb.] - -Across the roll of ridge and canyon, you see them all; and when you come -to know them well, each form, each shade of green, though far away, will -claim your recognition. Yonder, in a hollow of the hills, a cluster of -blue-green heads is raised above the familiar color of the hemlocks. -Cross to it, and stand amidst the crowning glory of Nature's art in -building trees. About you rise columns of Noble firs, faultless in -symmetry, straight as the line of sight, clean as granite shafts. Carry -the picture with you; nowhere away from the forests of the Columbia can -you look upon such perfect trees. - -[Illustration: Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County, Washington.] - -Westward of the Cascade summits the commercial forest of to-day extends -down from an elevation of about 3,500 feet. Intercepted by these -heights, the moisture-laden clouds are emptied on the crest of the -range. Eastward, the effects of decreasing precipitation are shown both -in species and in density. Tamarack, white fir and pines climb higher on -these warmer slopes. Along the base of the mountains, and beyond low -passes where strong west winds drive saturated clouds out over level -reaches, western yellow pine (_Pinus ponderosa_) becomes almost the only -tree. Over miles of level lava flow, along the upper Deschutes, this -species forms a great forest bounded on the east by rolling sage-brush -plains that stretch southward to the Nevada deserts. Beyond the -Deschutes drainage, where spurs of the Blue mountains rise to the levels -of clouds and moisture, the forest again covers the hills, spreading far -to the east until it disappears again in the broad, treeless valley of -Snake river. North of the Columbia the story is the same. From the lower -slopes of Mt. Adams great rolling bunch-grass downs and prairies reach -far eastward. Here and there, over these drier stretches, stand single -trees or clusters of western juniper (_Juniperus occidentalis_). - -[Illustration: Fifty-year-old Hemlock growing on Cedar log. The latter, -which was centuries old before it matured and fell, was still sound -enough to yield many thousand shingles.] - -But on the west slope of the Cascades, and over the Coast range, the -great forests spread in unbroken array, save where wide valleys have -been cleared by man or hillsides stripped by fire. Here, in the land of -warm sea winds and abundant moisture, the famous Douglas fir -(_Pseudotsuga taxifolia_), Pacific red cedar (_Thuja plicata_) and -tideland spruce (_Picea sitchensis_) attain their greatest development. -These are the monarchs of the matchless Northwestern forests, to which -the markets of the world are looking more and more as the lines of -exhausted supply draw closer. - -[Illustration: Sawyers preparing to "fall" a large Tideland Spruce.] - -Douglas fir recalls by its name one of the heroes of science, David -Douglas, a Scotch naturalist who explored these forests nearly ninety -years ago, and discovered not only this particular giant of the woods, -but also the great sugar pine and many other fine trees and plants. As a -pioneer botanist, searching the forest, Douglas presented a surprising -spectacle to the Indians. "The Man of Grass" they called him, when they -came to understand that he was not bent on killing the fur-bearing -animals for the profit to be had from their pelts. - -[Illustration: Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir, and Yellow Pine.] - -The splendid conifer which woodsmen have called after him is one of the -kings of all treeland. The most abundant species of the Northwest, it is -also, commercially, the most important. Sometimes reaching a height of -more than 250 feet, it grows in remarkably close stands, and covers vast -areas with valuable timber that will keep the multiplying mills of -Oregon and Washington sawing for generations. In the dense shade of the -forests, it raises a straight and stalwart trunk, clear of limb for a -hundred feet or more. On the older trees, its deeply furrowed bark is -often a foot thick. Trees of eight feet diameter are at least three -hundred years old, and rare ones, much larger, have been cut showing an -age of more than five centuries. - -To these areas of the greatest trees must come all who would know the -real spirit of the forest, at once beneficent and ruthless. Here nature -selects the fittest. The struggle for soil below and light above is -relentless. The weakling, crowded and overshadowed, inevitably deepens -the forest floor with its fallen trunk, adding to the humus that covers -the lavas, and nourishing in its decay the more fortunate rival that has -robbed it of life. Here, too, with the architectural splendor of the -trees, one feels the truth of Bryant's familiar line: - - The groves were God's first temples. - -The stately evergreens raise their rugged crowns far toward the sky, -arching gothic naves that vault high over the thick undergrowth of ferns -and vine maples. In such scenes, it is easy to understand the woodsman's -solace, of which Herbert Bashford tells in his "Song of the Forest -Ranger:" - - I would hear the wild rejoicing - Of the wind-blown cedar tree, - Hear the sturdy hemlock voicing - Ancient epics of the sea. - Forest aisles would I be winding, - Out beyond the gates of Care; - And in dim cathedrals finding - Silence at the shrine of Prayer. - - * * * * * - - Come and learn the joy of living! - Come and you will understand - How the sun his gold is giving - With a great, impartial hand! - How the patient pine is climbing, - Year by year to gain the sky; - How the rill makes sweetest rhyming - Where the deepest shadows lie! - -[Illustration: Yellow Cedar, with young Silver Fir.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, GIFFORD - -One of the Kings of Treeland--A Douglas Fir.] - -Fir, spruce and cedar you will see along the slopes of the Cascades in -varying density and grandeur, from thickets of slender trees reclaiming -fire-swept lands to broken ranks of patriarchs whose crowns have swayed -before the storms of centuries. Among the foot hills, the pale gray -"grand" or white firs (_Abies grandis_) rear their domes above the -common plane in quest of light, occasionally attaining a height of 275 -feet, while the lowly yew (_Taxus brevifolia_), of which the warrior of -an earlier time fashioned his bow, overhangs the noisy streams. In the -same habitat, where the little rivers debouch into the valleys, you may -see the broad-leaf maple, Oregon ash, cottonwood, and a score of lesser -deciduous trees on which the filtered rays of sunshine play in softer -tones. - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, JAS. WAGGENER, JR. - -Firs and Vine Maples in Washington Forest.] - -Here and there in the Willamette valley you meet foothill yellow pine -(_Pinus ponderosa var. benthamiana_), near relative of the western -yellow pine. Oregon oak (_Quercus garryana_) occurs sparingly throughout -the valleys, or reaches up the western foothills of the Willamette, -until it meets the great unbroken forest of the Coast Range. - -[Illustration: Towing a log raft out to sea, bound for the California -markets.] - -The dense lower forests are never gaily decked, so little sunlight -enters. But in early summer, back among the mountains, you may find -tangles of half-prostrate rhododendron, from which, far as the eye can -reach, the rose-pink gorgeous flowers give back the tints of sunshine -and the iridescent hues of raindrops. Mingled with the flush of "laurel" -blossoms are nodding plumes of creamy squaw grass, the beautiful -xerophyllum. Often this queenly upland flower covers great areas, -hiding the desolation wrought by forest fires. Its sheaves of fibrous -rootstocks furnish the Indian women material for their basket-making; -hence the most familiar of its many names. The varied green of -huckleberry bushes is everywhere. They are the common ground cover. - -[Illustration: A "Burn" on the slopes of Mount Hood, overgrown with -Squaw Grass. Such fire-swept areas are quickly covered with mountain -flowers, of which this beautiful cream-colored plume is one of the most -familiar. Its roots yield a fiber used by the Indians in making -baskets.] - -[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, GIFFORD - -A Noble Fir.] - -In valley woodlands, the dogwood, here a tree of fair proportions, -lights up the somber forest with round, white eyes that peer out through -bursting leafbuds, early harbingers of summer. The first blush of color -comes with the unfolding of the pink and red racemes of flowering wild -currant. Later, sweet syringa fills the air with the breath of orange -blossoms; and spirea, the Indian arrowwood, hangs its tassels among the -forest trees or on the bushy hills. But the presence of deciduous trees -and shrubs, as well as their beauty, is best known in autumn, when -maples brighten the woods with yellow rays; when dogwood and vine maple -paint the fire-scarred slopes a flaming red, and a host of other -color-bearers stain the cliffs with rich tints of saffron and russet and -brown. - -Coming at last to the rim of the forest, you look out over the sea, -where go lumber-laden ships to all the world. Close by the beach, -dwarfed and distorted by winds of the ocean, and nourished by its fogs, -north-coast pine (_Pinus contorta_) extends its prostrate forms over the -cliffs and dunes of the shore, just as your first acquaintance, the -white-bark pine, spreads over the dunes and ridges of the mountain. They -are brothers of a noble race. - -[Illustration: Western White Pine.] - -You have traversed the wonder-forest of the world, and on your journey -with the stream you may have come to know twenty-three species of -cone-bearers, all indigenous to the Columbia country. Of these, one is -Douglas fir, nowise a true fir but a combination of spruce and hemlock; -seven are pines, four true firs, two spruces, two hemlocks, two -tamaracks or larches, two cedars, two junipers, and the yew. - -[Illustration: A Clatsop Forest. On extreme right is a Silver Fir, -covered with moss; next are two fine Hemlocks, with Tideland Spruce on -left.] - -So many large and valuable trees of so many varieties can be found -nowhere else. A Douglas fir growing within the watershed of the Columbia -is twelve feet and seven inches in diameter. A single stick 220 feet -long and 39 inches in diameter at its base has been cut for a flagpole -in Clatsop county. A spruce twenty feet in diameter has been measured. -Such immense types are rare, yet in a day's tramp through the Columbia -forests one may see many trees upwards of eight feet in diameter. One -acre in the Cowlitz river watershed is said to bear twenty-two trees, -each eight feet or more at its base. Though no exact measurements can be -cited, it is likely that upon different single acres 400,000 feet, board -measure, of standing timber may be found. And back among the Cascades, -upon one forty-acre tract, are 9,000,000 feet--enough to build a town. -Manufactured, this body of timber would be worth $135,000, of which -about $100,000 would be paid to labor. - -[Illustration: A Carpet of Firs; 300,000 feet, cut on one acre in a -Columbia forest.] - -Along the Columbia you will hear shrill signals of the straining engines -that haul these gigantic trees to the rafting grounds. Up and down the -broad river ply steamboats trailing huge log-rafts to the mills. Each -year the logging railroads push farther back among the mountains, to -bring forth lumber for Australia, the Orient, South America, Europe and -Africa. Many of our own states, which a few years ago boasted -"inexhaustible" forests, now draw from this supply. - -[Illustration: Winter in the forest. Mount Hood seen from Government -Camp road. Twenty feet of snow.] - -Since 1905 Washington has been the leading lumber-producing state of the -Union, and Oregon has advanced, in one year, from ninth to fourth place. -The 1910 production of lumber in these states was 6,182,125,000 feet, or -15.4 per cent. of the total output of the United States. The same -states, it is estimated, have 936,800,000,000 feet of standing -merchantable timber, or a third of the country's total. - -[Illustration: Rangers' Pony Trail in forest of Douglas and Silver -Firs.] - -This is the heritage which the centuries of forest life have bequeathed. -Only the usufruct of it is rightfully ours. Even as legal owners, we are -nevertheless but trustees of that which was here before the coming of -our race, and which should be here in great quantity when our trails -have led beyond the range. Our duty is plain. Let us uphold every effort -to give meaning and power to the civil laws which say: "Thou shalt not -burn;" to the moral laws which say: "Thou shalt not waste." Let us -understand and support that spirit of conservation which demands for -coming generations the fullest measure of the riches we enjoy. For -although the region of the Columbia is the home of the greatest trees, -centuries must pass ere the seedlings of to-day will stand matured. - -[Illustration: Forest Fire on east fork of Hood River. From a photograph -taken at Cloud Cap Inn five minutes after the fire started.] - -Reforestation is indispensable as insurance. Let us see to it that the -untillable hills shall ever bear these matchless forests, emerald -settings for our snow-peaks. On their future depends, in great degree, -the future of the Northwest. As protectors of the streams that nourish -our valleys, and perennial treasuries of power for our industries, they -are guarantors of life and well-being to the millions that will soon -people the vast Columbia basin. - -[Illustration: Reforestation--Three generations of young growth; -Lodgepole Pine in foreground; Lodgepole and Tamarack thicket on ridge at -right; Tamarack on skyline.] - - - - -NOTES - - - =Transportation Routes, Hotels, Guides, etc.=--The - trip from Portland to north side of Mount Hood is made - by rail (Oregon-Washington Ry. & Nay. Co. from Union - station) or boat (The Dalles, Portland & Astoria Nav. - Co. from foot of Alder street) to Hood River, Ore. (66 - miles), where automobiles are taken for Cloud Cap Inn. - Fare, to Hood River, by rail, $1.90; by boat, $1.00. - Auto fare, Hood River to the Inn, $5.00. Round trip, - Portland to Inn and return, by rail, $12.50; by boat, - $12.00. Board and room at Cloud Cap Inn, $5.00 a day, - or $30.00 a week. Accommodations may be reserved at - Travel Bureau, 69 Fifth street. - - To Government Camp, south side of Mount Hood (56 - miles), the trip is made by electric cars to Boring, - Oregon, and thence by automobile. Cars of the Portland - Railway, Light & Power Co., leave First and Alder - streets for Boring (fare 40 cents), where they connect - with automobiles (fare to Government Camp, $5.00). - Board and room at Coalman's Government Camp hotel, - $3.00 a day, or $18.00 a week. - - Guides for the ascent of Mt. Hood, as well as for a - variety of side trips, may be engaged at Cloud Cap Inn - and Government Camp. For climbing parties, the charge - is $5.00 per member. - - The trip to Mount Adams is by Spokane, Portland & - Seattle ("North Bank") Railway from North Bank station - or by boat (as above) to White Salmon, Wash., - connecting with automobile or stage for Guler or - Glenwood. Fare to White Salmon by rail, $2.25; round - trip, $3.25; fare by boat, $1.00. White Salmon to - Guler, $3.00. Board and room at Chris. Guler's hotel - at Guler P. O., near Trout Lake, $1.50 a day, or $9.00 - a week. Similar rates to and at Glenwood. At either - place, guides and horses may be engaged for the - mountain trails (15 miles to the snow-line). Bargain - in advance. - - The south side of Mount St. Helens is reached by rail - from Union station, Portland, to Yacolt (fare $1.30) - or Woodland ($1.00), where conveyances may be had for - Peterson's ranch on Lewis River. To the north side, - the best route is by rail to Castle Rock (fare, - $1.90), and by vehicle thence to Spirit Lake. Regular - guides for the mountain are not to be had, but the - trails are well marked. - - - =Automobile Roads.=--Portland has many excellent roads - leading out of the city, along the Columbia and the - Willamette. One of the most attractive follows the - south bank of the Columbia to Rooster Rock and - Latourelle Falls (25 miles). As it is on the high - bluffs for much of the distance, it commands extended - views of the river in each direction, and of the - snow-peaks east and north of the city. Return may be - made via the Sandy River valley. This road is now - being extended eastward from Latourelle Falls to - connect with the road which is building westward from - Hood River. When completed the highway will be one of - the great scenic roads of the world. - - From Portland, several roads through the near-by - villages lead to a junction with the highway to - Government Camp on the south side of Mount Hood (56 - miles). The mountain portion of this is the old Barlow - Road of the "immigrant" days in early Oregon, and is - now a toll road. (Toll for vehicles, round trip, - $2.50.) Supervisor T. H. Sherrard, of the Oregon - National Forest Service, is now building a road from - the west boundary of the national forest, at the - junction of Zigzag and Sandy rivers, crossing Sandy - canyon (see p. 71), following the Clear Fork of the - Sandy to the summit of the Cascades, crossing the - range by the lowest pass in the state (elevation, - 3,300 feet), and continuing down Elk Creek and West - Fork of Hood River to a junction with the road from - Lost Lake into Hood River valley. The completion of - this road through the forest reserve will open a - return route from Hood River to the Government Camp - road, through a mountain district of the greatest - interest. - - Southward from Portland, inviting roads along the - Willamette lead to Oregon City, Salem, Eugene and - Albany. From Portland westward, several good roads are - available, leading along the Columbia or through - Banks, Buxton and Mist to Astoria and the beach - resorts south of that city. North of the Columbia - (ferry to Vancouver), a route of great interest leads - eastward along the Columbia to Washougal and the - canyon of Washougal River (45 miles). From Vancouver - northward a popular road follows the Columbia to - Woodland and Kalama, and thence along the Cowlitz - River to Castle Rock. - - The tour book of the Portland Automobile Club, giving - details of these and many other roads, may be had for - $1.50 in paper covers, or $2.50 in leather. - - - =Bibliography.=--The geological story of the Cascade - uptilt and the formation of the Columbia gorge is - graphically told in _Condon: Oregon Geology_ - (Portland, J. K. Gill Co., 1910). For the Columbia - from its sources to the sea, _Lyman: The Columbia - River_ (New York, G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1909) not only - gives the best account of the river itself and its - great basin but tells the Indian legends and outlines - the period of discovery and settlement. _Irving: - Astoria_ and _Winthrop: The Canoe and the Saddle_ are - classics of the early Northwest. _Balch: Bridge of the - Gods_, weaves the Indian myth of a natural bridge into - a story of love and war. - - The literature of the mountains described in this - volume is mainly to be found in the publications of - the mountain clubs, especially _Mazama_ (Portland), - _The Sierra Club Bulletin_ (San Francisco) and _The - Mountaineer_ (Seattle). Many of their papers have - scientific value as well as popular interest. It is to - be hoped that the Mazamas will resume the publication - of their annual. - - _Russell: Glaciers of N. Am._ p. 67; _Emmons: - Volcanoes of the U. S. Pacific Coast_, in _Bulletin of - Am. Geog. Soc._, v. 9, p. 31; _Sylvester: Is Mt. Hood - Awakening?_ in _Nat'l Geog. Mag._, v. 19, p. 515, - describe the glaciers of Mt. Hood. Prof. Reid has - published valuable accounts of both Hood and Adams, - with especial reference to their glaciers, in - _Science_, n. s., v. 15, p. 906; _Bul. Geol. Soc. of - Am._, v. 13, p. 536, and _Zeitschrift fur - Gletscherkunde_, v. 1, p. 113. An account of the - volcanic activities of St. Helens by Lieut. C. P. - Elliott, U. S. A., may be found in _U. S. Geog. Mag._, - v. 8, pp. 226, and by J. S. Diller in _Science_, v. 9, - p. 639. - - The ice caves of the Mt. Adams district are described - in _Balch_: _Glacieres, or Freezing Caverns_, which - covers similar phenomena in many countries; by L. H. - Wells, in _Pacific Monthly_, v. 13, p. 234; by R. W. - Raymond, in _Overland Monthly_, v. 3, p. 421; by H. T. - Finck in _Nation_, v. 57, p. 342. - - Dryer's account of the first ascent of Mt. St. Helens - may be found in _The Oregonian_ of September 3, 1853, - and his story of the first ascent of Mt. Hood in _The - Oregonian_, August 19, 1854, and _Littell's Living - Age_, v. 43, p. 321. - - - =The Mountain Clubs.=--For the following list of - presidents and ascents of the Mazamas, I am indebted - to Miss Gertrude Metcalfe, historian of the club: - - PRESIDENTS. OFFICIAL ASCENTS. - - 1894 Will G. Steel Mt. Hood, Oregon. - 1895 Will G. Steel--L. L. Hawkins Mt. Adams, Washington. - 1896 C. H. Sholes Mt. Mazama (named for the - Mazamas, 1896), Mt. - McLoughlin (Pitt), Crater - Lake, Oregon. - 1897 Henry L. Pittock Mt. Rainier, Washington. - 1898 Hon. M. C. George Mt. St. Helens, Washington. - 1899 Will G. Steel Mt. Sahale (named by the - Mazamas, 1899), Lake - Chelan, Wash. - 1900 T. Brook White Mt. Jefferson, Oregon. - 1901 Mark O'Neill Mt. Hood, Oregon. - 1902 Mark O'Neill Mt. Adams, Washington. - 1903 R. L. Glisan Three Sisters, Oregon. - 1904 C. H. Sholes Mt. Shasta, California. - 1905 Judge H. H. Northup Mt. Rainier, Washington. - 1906 C. H. Sholes Mt. Baker (Northeast side), - Wash. - 1907 C. H. Sholes Mt. Jefferson, Oregon. - 1908 C. H. Sholes Mt. St. Helens, Washington. - 1909 M. W. Gorman Mt. Baker (Southwest side), - and Shuksan, Washington. - 1910 John A. Lee Three Sisters, Oregon. - 1911 H. H. Riddell Glacier Peak, Lake Chelan, Wash. - 1912 Edmund P. Sheldon Mt. Hood, Oregon. - - The organization and success of the Portland Snow Shoe - Club are mainly due to the enthusiastic labors of its - president, J. Wesley Ladd. Between 1901 and 1909, Mr. - Ladd took a private party of his friends each winter - for snow shoeing and other winter sports to Cloud Cap - Inn or Government Camp. Three years ago it was - determined to form a club and erect a house near Cloud - Cap Inn. The club was duly incorporated and a permit - obtained from the United States Forest Service. Mr. - Ladd, who has been president of the club since its - formation, writes me: - - "Our club house was started in July, 1910, and was - erected by Mr. Mark Weygandt, the worthy mountain - guide who has conducted so many parties to the top of - Mt. Hood. It is built of white fir logs, all selected - there in the forest. I have been told in a letter from - the Montreal Amateur Athletic Club of Montreal, - Canada, that we have the most unique and up-to-date - Snow Shoe Club building in the world. The site for the - house was selected by Mr. Horace Mecklem and myself, - who made a special trip up there. The building was - finished in September, 1910. It is forty feet long and - twenty four feet wide, with a six-foot fireplace and a - large up-to-date cooking range. The organizers of the - club are as follows: Harry L. Corbett, Elliott R. - Corbett, David T. Honeyman, Walter B. Honeyman, Rodney - L. Glisan, Dr. Herbert S. Nichols, Horace Mecklem, - Brandt Wickersham, Jordan V. Zan, and myself." - - The Portland Ski Club was organized six years ago, and - has since made a trip to Government Camp in January or - February of each year. The journey is made by vehicle - until snow is gained on the foothills, at - Rhododendron; the remaining ten miles are covered on - skis. The presidents of the club have been: 1907, - James A. Ambrose; 1908, George S. Luders; 1909, Howard - H. Haskell; 1910, E. D. Jorgensen; 1911, G. R. Knight; - 1912, John C. Cahalin. - - The Mountaineers, a club organized in Seattle in 1907, - made a noteworthy ascent of Mount Adams in 1911. - - - =Climate.=--The weather conditions in the lower - Columbia River region are a standing invitation to - outdoor life during a long and delightful summer. - Western Oregon and Washington know no extremes of heat - or cold at any time of the year. The statistics here - given are from tables of the U. S. Weather Bureau, - averaged for the period of government record: - - Mean annual rainfall: Portland, 45.1 inches; The - Dalles, 19 inches. Portland averages 164 days with .01 - of an inch precipitation during the year, and The - Dalles 74 days; but the long and comparatively dry - summer is indicated by the fact that only 27 of these - days at Portland and 15 at The Dalles fell in the - summer months, June to September inclusive. - - Mean annual temperature varies little between the east - and west sides of the Cascades, Portland having a - 57-year average of 52.8 deg. as compared with 52.5 deg. - at The Dalles. But the range of temperature is greater - in the interior. Thus the mean monthly temperature for - January, the coldest month, is 38.7 deg. at Portland and - 32.6 deg. at The Dalles, while for July, the hottest - month, it is 67.3 deg. at Portland and 72.6 deg. at The - Dalles. - - While mountain weather must always be an uncertain - quantity, that of the Northwestern snow-peaks is - comparatively steady, owing to the dry summer of the - lowlands. During July and August, the snow-storms of - the Alps are almost unknown here. After the middle of - September, however, when the rains have begun, a - visitor to the snow-line is liable to encounter - weather very like that recorded by a belated tourist - at Zermatt: - - First it rained and then it blew, - And then it friz and then it snew, - And then it fogged and then it thew; - And very shortly after then - It blew and friz and snew again. - - - =Erratum.=--On page 72, I have been misled by Dryer's - statement into crediting the first ascent of Mount - Hood to Captain Samuel K. Barlow, the road builder. - The mountain climber was his son, William Barlow, as I - am informed by Mr. George H. Himes, of the Oregon - Historical Society. - - - - -INDEX - -Figures in light face type refer to the text, those in heavier type to -illustrations. - - - Adams, Mt., Indian legend of its origin, 43; - routes to, 66, 67; - structure and glaciers, 89-104; - lava flows, 93-97; - tree casts, 94; - caves, 94-96; - routes to summit, 96-100; - name, 103; - height, 104; - first ascent, 104; - views of, =8=, =15=, =17=, =31=, =63=, =86-107= - - Adams glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =103=, 104, =106= - - Alps, character and scenery, 60 - - Archer Mountain, =29= - - Arrowhead Mountain, =29=, =31= - - Astoria, 51, =16=, =21= - - Automobile roads, 140 - - Avalanche glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, 107 - - - Barlow, William, ascent of Mt. Hood, 72, 79, 142 - - Barlow road, 70, 142, =78= - - Barrett Spur, 86, =57=, =69=, =75= - - Bibliography, 141 - - Blue Mountains, 18, 24 - - "Bridge of the Gods," Indian legend, 36-43; =21=, =35= - - Bryce, James, on Northwestern mountains, 60 - - - Cabbage Rock, =47= - - Cape Horn, =19= - - Carbon glacier, 102 - - Cascade locks, =39= - - Cascade Mountains, 18, 24, 25, 28, 30, 58-66 - - Castle Rock (Columbia River), =28=, =29=, =31= - - Castle Rock, Wash., 106 - - Cedars, group of red, =128= - - Celilo Falls (Tumwater), =52=, =54= - - Chelatchie Prairie, =114= - - Chinook wind, Indian legend of its origin, 46-48 - - Climate, 142 - - Cloud Cap Inn, 15, 67, 78, =57=, =58=, =60=, =66= - - Coast Range, 58 - - Coe glacier, Mt. Hood, 78, 80, 83-86, =69=, =72=, =75= - - Columbia River, John Muir's description, 15; - dawn on, 15-23; - its gorge, 30; - Indian legends of its origin, 36-43; - its discovery by Capt. Gray, 51; - struggle for its ownership, 50-52; - its settlement, 52; - views of, =7=, =9=, =14-52=, =56=, =109= - - Columbia Slough, =18=, =21= - - "Coming of the White Man," statue, =23= - - Cooper Spur, Mt. Hood, 79, 80, 87, =57-60= - - Crater Rock, 81, 87, =77=, =80= - - - Dalles, The, 18, 39, 96, 107, =46=, =47=, =49= - - Douglas, David, 131 - - Douglas firs, 131, 132, =122=, =130=, =132=, =133= - - Dryer, T. J., 72, 115 - - - Eliot glacier, Mt. Hood, 15, 67, 78, 83-86, =17=, =58-67=, =73=, =92= - - - Forest, on lava beds, 94, 107-112, =111= - - "Forests, The," chapter by Harold Douglas Langille, 123-139, =122-139= - - Forsyth, C. E., leader in rescue on Mt. St. Helens, 121 - - - Glacieres, freezing caves, 95, 96, =87= - - Glenwood, Wash., 68, 96 - - Goldendale, Wash., 68 - - Government Camp, 68, 70, 140, 142, =78=, =81= - - "Grant Castle," on the Columbia, =46= - - Gray, Capt. Robert, 51 - - Guler, Wash., 68, 96, =89=, =90= - - - Hellroaring Canyon, 103, =95=, =96=, =97= - - Hood, Mt., dawn on, 15; - Indian legend of its origin, 43; - John Muir on, 57; - routes to, 66-70; - first ascent, 72, 75; - height, 75, 76; - the Mazamas organized on summit, 75; - structure and glaciers, 75-89; - summit, 80, =6=, =55=, =70=; - crater, 81, 82, =77=; - lava bed, 89; - views of, =6=, =14=, =17=, =21=, =57-85=, =123=, =124=, =138= - - Hood River, =43=, =85= - - Hood River (city), Ore., 67, 140, =43=, =109= - - Hood River Valley, 18, 63, 66, 67, =44= - - Hudson's Bay Company, 51 - - - Ice caves, 95, 96, =87= - - Illumination Rock, 81, =77=, 79 - - Indians, legend of the creation, 32; - "Bridge of the Gods," 36-43; - origin of the Chinook wind, 46-48; - value of their place names, 104; - Leschi, first Indian to scale a snow-peak, 115; =21=, =23=, - =26=, =30=, =44=, =50=, =52= - - - - Japan current, 46 - - Jefferson, Mt., 104, =83= - - - Kelley, Hall J., 103 - - Klickitat glacier, Mt. Adams, 97-103; =94=, =97-100= - - Klickitat River, 68, =144= - - - Ladd glacier, Mt. Hood, 78, 80, 83-86, =69=, =75= - - Langille, Harold Douglas, "The Forests," 123-139 - - Langille, William A., 80 - - Lava beds, tree casts, caves, etc., near Mt. Adams, 89-96, =86=, =87=; - near Mt. St. Helens, 107-112, =111=, =112=; - struggle of the forest to cover, 108-112, =111= - - Lava glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =101-104= - - Lewis and Clark, exploration, 51 - - Lewis River, 106, 107, =108= - - Lily, the Mt. Hood, =81= - - Lone Rock, =19=, =29= - - Loowit, the witch woman, 41-43 - - Lyle, Wash, 68, =9=, =45= - - Lyman glaciers, Mt. Adams, 100, =101= - - Lyman, Prof. W. D., 51, 82, 103 - - - Mazama glacier, Mt. Adams, 97, 100, =94=, =96= - - Mazama Rock, Mt. Hood, =70= - - Mazamas, mountain club, organization, 75; - ascents of Mt. St. Helens, 116; - an heroic rescue, 120, 121; - presidents, 142; - ascents, 142; =80=, =82=, =93=, =117=, =124= - - Memaloose Island, =42= - - Mountains, importance in scenery, 59 - - "Mountain that was 'God,'" =105= - - Mountaineers, The, 142, =103= - - Multnomah Falls, =26=, =27=, =28= - - - Newton Clark glacier, Mt. Hood, 79, 87, =83=, =84= - - Noble fir, 129, 130, =125=, =130=, =136= - - North Yakima, Wash., 68 - - - Oneonta gorge, =30=, =32= - - Oregon, its geological story, 23-32; - its settlement, 50-54 - - - Peterson's, near Mt. St. Helens, 106, 107 - - Plummer, Fred G., 115 - - Pinnacle glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =106=, =107= - - Portland, Ore., 57, 140, =7=, =22=, =61=, =113= - - Portland Automobile Club, 70, 140 - - Portland Ski Club, 142, =81= - - Portland Snow-shoe Club, 142, =57=, =62=, =66= - - "Presidents' Range," 104 - - Puget Sound, 27 - - - Rainier, Mt. or Mt. Tacoma, and Rainier National Park, 83, 102, - =51=, =105=, =113=, =117= - - Red Butte, Mt. Adams, =86= - - Reforestation, =139= - - Reid, Prof. Harry Fielding, 87, 103, =79= - - Rhododendrons, 134, =127= - - Ridge of Wonders, Mt. Adams, 103, =96=, =98=, =99= - - Riley, Frank B., 120, 121 - - Rocky Mountains, 23 - - Rooster Rock, =25= - - Rusk, C. E., 103 - - Rusk glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, 102, =98=, =101= - - Ruskin, John, quoted, 59, 60, 123 - - - "Sacajawea," statue, =23= - - Sacramento Valley, origin, 26 - - Salmon fishing, =16=, =25=, =33=, =36=, =48= - - Sandy glaciers and canyon, Mt. Hood, 86, 87, =71=, =76= - - Sandy, Ore., =51= - - San Joaquin Valley, origin, 21 - - Shaw, Col. B. F., 104 - - Siskiyou Mountains, 24 - - South Butte, Mt. Adams, 96, =89= - - Speelyei, the coyote god, 32, 47 - - Spirit Lake, 106, =4= - - Squaw grass, 134, =135= - - Steel's Cliff, 81, =91= - - St. Helens, Mt., Indian legend of its origin, 43; - compared with Mt. Adams, 90, 94; - discovery and name, 104; - structure, 104-6; - height, 106; - routes to, 106; - recent eruptions, 106, 107; - lava beds, 107-112; - glaciers, 112-115; - routes to summit, 112-116; - volcanic phenomena, 115; - first ascent, 115; - the Mazamas on, 116, 120, 121; - an heroic rescue, 120, 121; - views of, =4=, =8=, =15=, =17=, =108-121= - - St. Peter's Dome, =20=, =31= - - Sylvester, A. H., 86, 87 - - - Table Mountain, =31=, =35=, =36= - - Toutle River canyons, Mt. St. Helens, 115, =116= - - Tree casts, 94, 107, =111= - - Trout Lake, 15, 62, 66, 76, =89=, =110= - - - Umatilla, Ore., 62 - - Umatilla Indian village, =50= - - - Vancouver, Capt. George, 72, 104 - - Vancouver, Wash., 106, =15=, =24= - - Volcanoes, 27, 28 - - - White River glacier, Mt. Hood, 81, =75=, =77=, =82= - - White Salmon, Wash., 67, 140, =42=, =44= - - White Salmon glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =107= - - White Salmon River, =41= - - White Salmon Valley, 56, 89 - - Willamette River, 21, 57, =9=, =113= - - Wind Mountain, =39=, =40= - - Woodland, Wash., 106, 140 - - - Yacolt, Wash., 106, 140 - - Yakima Indians, 48, =21= - - Y. M. C. A., party on Mt. Hood, =76=; - on Mt. Adams, =86= - - Yocum, O. C., 70 - - - Zigzag glacier, Mt. Hood, 81, 87, =77=, =79= - - Zigzag River and Canyon, 86, 87, =48=, =78= - -[Illustration: Klickitat River Canyon, near Mount Adams.] - - - ENGRAVINGS BY THE HICKS-CHATTEN CO. - - COLOR PRINTING BY THE KILHAM STATIONERY AND PRINTING CO. - - PORTLAND, OREGON - - - - - * * * * * - - - - -Transcriber's note: - -Obvious punctuation errors were corrected. - -Page 10, "Moorhouse" changed to "Moorehouse" (Lee Moorehouse 26) - -Page 51, "monoply" changed to "monopoly" (a foreign monopoly that) - -Page 54, "descendents" changed to "descendants" (pride of their -descendants) - -Page 60, illustration with caption beginning "Cone of Mount Hood", -"scoriae" changed to "scoriae" (ridge of volcanic scoriae) - -Page 78, "pretentions" changed to "pretensions" (with very modest -pretensions) - -Page 81, "scoriae" changed to "scoriae" (rocks and the scoriae which) - -Page 83, "tripple" changed to "triple" (and even triple border) - -Page 97, double word "to" removed from test. Original read (stairway -tilted to to forty) - -Page 141, italics added to "U. S. Geog. Mag." and "Science" to follow -rest of usage (in _U. S. Geog. Mag._, v. 8, pp. 226, and by J. S. Diller -in _Science_) - -Page 142, Erratum, "Captin" changed to "Captain" (to Captain Samuel K. -Barlow) - -Page 143, Indians, Leschi, only the first illustration is of Leschi, the -rest of the bolded page numbers are of other people. - -Page 143, Zigzag River and Canyon, bold text added to "48" as it is an -illustration (Canyon, 86, 87, =48=, =78=) - - - -***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA*** - - -******* This file should be named 42893.txt or 42893.zip ******* - - -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: -http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/2/8/9/42893 - - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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