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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42893 ***
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file
+ which includes the more than 200 original illustrations.
+ See 42893-h.htm or 42893-h.zip:
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42893/42893-h/42893-h.htm)
+ or
+ (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/42893/42893-h.zip)
+
+
+ Images of the original pages are available through
+ Internet Archive. See
+ https://archive.org/details/guardiansofcolu00willrich
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+ Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
+
+ Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
+
+
+
+
+
+THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA
+
+ * * * * *
+
+THE MOUNTAIN
+
+
+ I hold above a careless land
+ The menace of the skies;
+ Within the hollow of my hand
+ The sleeping tempest lies.
+ Mine are the promise of the morn,
+ The triumph of the day;
+ And parting sunset's beams forlorn
+ Upon my heights delay.
+ --Edward Sydney Tylee
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT DR. U. M. LAUMAN
+
+Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mt. St. Helens.
+
+ "Night's candles are burnt out, and jocund day
+ Stands tiptoe on the misty mountain tops." Shakespeare.]
+
+
+THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA
+
+Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens
+
+by
+
+JOHN H. WILLIAMS
+
+Author of "The Mountain That Was 'God'"
+
+
+ _And mountains that like giants stand
+ To sentinel enchanted land._
+ SCOTT: "The Lady of the Lake."
+
+
+With More Than Two Hundred Illustrations
+Including Eight in Colors
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Tacoma
+John H. Williams
+1912
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Climbing the last steep slope on Mount Hood, from Cooper's Spur, with
+ropes anchored on summit.]
+
+ Copyright, 1912, by John H. Williams
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Willamette River at Portland, with ships loading wheat
+and lumber for foreign ports.]
+
+
+
+
+FOREWORD
+
+
+In offering this second volume of a proposed series on Western mountain
+scenery, I am fortunate in having a subject as unhackneyed as was that
+of "The Mountain that Was 'God.'" The Columbia River has been described
+in many publications about the Northwest, but the three fine snow-peaks
+guarding its great canyon have received scant attention, and that mainly
+from periodicals of local circulation.
+
+These peaks are vitally a part of the vast Cascade-Columbia scene to
+which they give a climax. Hence the story here told by text and picture
+has necessarily included the stage upon which they were built up. And
+since the great forests of this mountain and river district are a factor
+of its beauty as well as its wealth, I am glad to be able to present a
+brief chapter about them from the competent hand of Mr. H. D. Langille,
+formerly of the United States forest service. A short bibliography, with
+notes on transportation routes, hotels, guides and other matters of
+interest to travelers and students, will be found at the end.
+
+Accuracy has been my first aim. I have tried to avoid the exaggeration
+employed in much current writing for the supposed edification of
+tourists. It has seemed to me that simply and briefly to tell the truth
+about the fascinating Columbia country would be the best service I could
+render to those who love its splendid mountains and its noble river. A
+mass of books, government documents and scientific essays has been
+examined. This literature is more or less contradictory, and as I cannot
+hope to have avoided all errors, I shall be grateful for any correction
+of my text.
+
+In choosing the illustrations, I have sought to show the individuality
+of each peak. Mountains, like men, wear their history on their
+faces,--none more so than Hood's sharp and finely scarred pyramid; or
+Adams, with its wide, truncated dome and deeply carved slopes; or St.
+Helens, newest of all our extinct volcanoes--if, indeed, it be
+extinct,--and least marred by the ice, its cone as perfect as
+Fujiyama's. Each has its own wonderful story to tell of ancient and
+often recent vulcanism. Let me again suggest that readers who would get
+the full value of the more comprehensive illustrations will find a
+reading glass very useful.
+
+Thanks are due to many helpers. More than fifty photographers,
+professional and amateur, are named in the table of illustrations.
+Without their co-operation the book would have been impossible. I am
+also indebted for valued information and assistance to the librarians at
+the Portland and Tacoma public libraries, the officers and members of
+the several mountaineering clubs in Portland, and the passenger
+departments of the railways reaching that city; to Prof. Harry Fielding
+Reid, the eminent geologist of Johns Hopkins University; Fred G.
+Plummer, geographer of the United States forest service; Dr. George Otis
+Smith, director of the United States geological survey; Judge Harrington
+Putnam, of New York, president of the American Alpine Club; Messrs.
+Rodney L. Glisan, William M. Ladd, H. O. Stabler, T. H. Sherrard, Judge
+W. B. Gilbert, H. L. Pittock, George H. Himes, John Gill, C. E. Rusk,
+and others in Portland and elsewhere.
+
+The West has much besides magnificent scenery to give those who visit
+it. Here have been played, upon a grander stage, the closing acts in the
+great drama of state-building which opened three hundred years ago on
+the Atlantic Coast. The setting has powerfully moulded the history, and
+we must know one if we would understand the other. Europe, of course,
+offers to the American student of culture and the arts something which
+travel here at home cannot supply. But every influence that brings the
+different sections of the United States into closer touch and fuller
+sympathy makes for patriotism and increased national strength.
+
+This, rather than regret for the two hundred millions of dollars which
+our tourists spend abroad each year, is the true basis of the "See
+America First" movement. According to his capacity, the tourist commonly
+gets value for his money, whether traveling in Europe or America. But
+Eastern ignorance of the West is costing the country more than the drain
+of tourist money.
+
+This volume is presented, therefore, as a call to better appreciation of
+the splendor and worth of our own land. Its publication will be
+justified if it is found to merit in some degree the commendation given
+its predecessor by Prof. W. D. Lyman, of Whitman College, whose
+delightful book on the Columbia has been consulted and whose personal
+advice has been of great value throughout my work. "I wish to express
+the conviction," writes Prof. Lyman, "that you have done an inestimable
+service to all who love beauty, and who stand for those higher things
+among our possessions that cannot be measured in money, but which have
+an untold bearing upon the finer sensibilities of a nation."
+
+Tacoma, June 15, 1912.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from south slope of Mount St. Helens,
+near the summit, showing the Cascade ranges below. Note the great burn
+in the forest cover of the ridges. "Steamboat Mountain" is seen in the
+distance beyond. Elevation of camera, nearly 9,000 feet.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia at Lyle, Washington.]
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ I. THE RIVER.
+
+ Dawn at Cloud Cap Inn--The geological dawn--Cascade-Sierra
+ uptilt--Rise of the snow-peaks--An age of vulcanism--Origin
+ of the great Columbia gorge--Dawn in Indian legend--The
+ "Bridge of the Gods"--Victory of Young Chinook--Dawn of
+ modern history--The pioneers and the state builders 15
+
+
+ II. THE MOUNTAINS.
+
+ Portland's snowy sentinels--Ruskin on the mountains--Cascades
+ vs. Alps--Mount Hood and its retreating glaciers--The
+ Mazamas--A shattered crater--Mount Adams--Lava and ice
+ caves--Mount St. Helens--The struggle of the forest on the
+ lava beds--Adventures of the climbers--The Mazamas in
+ peril--An heroic rescue 57
+
+
+ III. THE FORESTS, by HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE.
+
+ Outposts at timber line--The alpine parks--Zone of the great
+ trees--Douglas fir--From snow-line to ocean beach--Conservation
+ and reforestation 123
+
+
+ NOTES 140
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+The * indicates engravings from copyrighted photographs. See notice
+under the illustration.
+
+THREE-COLOR HALFTONES.
+
+ Title Photographer Page
+ *Dawn on Spirit Lake, north side of Mount
+ St. Helens Dr. U. M. Lauman Frontispiece
+ *St. Peter's Dome, with the Columbia and
+ Mount Adams G. M. Weister 20
+ *Nightfall on the Columbia Kiser Photo Co. 37
+ *Columbia River and Mount Hood, from White
+ Salmon, Washington Kiser Photo Co. 56
+ *Mount Hood, with crevasses of Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 73
+ *Ice Castle and crevasse, Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 92
+ *Columbia River and Mount Adams, from Hood
+ River, Oregon Benj. A. Gifford 109
+ An Island of Color--Rhododendrons and Squaw
+ Grass Asahel Curtis 127
+
+
+ONE-COLOR HALFTONES.
+
+ Title Photographer Page
+
+ *Climbing to summit of Mount Hood from Cooper
+ Spur G. M. Weister 6
+ Willamette River and Portland Harbor G. M. Weister 7
+ Mount Adams, from south slope of Mount St.
+ Helens G. M. Weister 8
+ Columbia River at Lyle William R. King 9
+ Mount Hood, seen from the Columbia at
+ Vancouver L. C. Henrichsen 14
+ Trout Lake and Mount Adams Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 15
+ Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia,
+ with railway bridge C. S. Reeves 15
+ *View up the Columbia, opposite Astoria G. M. Weister 16
+ Astoria in 1813 From an old print 16
+ *View north from Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 17
+ Columbia Slough, near mouth of the
+ Willamette George F. Holman 18
+ *Cape Horn Kiser Photo Co. 19
+ Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough L. C. Henrichsen 21
+ *Campfire of Yakima Indians at Astoria
+ Centennial Frank Woodfield 21
+ Sunset at mouth of the Columbia Frank Woodfield 22
+ Portland, the Willamette, and Mounts
+ Hood, Adams and St. Helens Angelus Photo Co. 22
+ "The Coming of the White Man" L. C. Henrichsen 23
+ "Sacajawea" G. M. Weister 23
+ Sunset on Vancouver Lake Jas. Waggener, Jr. 24
+ Fort Vancouver in 1852 From an old lithograph 24
+ *Rooster Rock G. M. Weister 25
+ Seining for Salmon on the lower Columbia Frank Woodfield 25
+ *The Columbia near Butler, looking
+ across to Multnomah Falls Kiser Photo Co. 26
+ Captain Som-kin, chief of Indian police Lee Moorehouse 26
+ *Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter (2) Kiser Photo Co. 27
+ *View from the cliffs at Multnomah Falls Kiser Photo Co. 28
+ *The broad Columbia, seen from Lone Rock Kiser Photo Co. 29
+ Castle Rock, seen from Mosquito Island Kiser Photo Co. 29
+ *The Columbia opposite Oneonta Gorge and
+ Horsetail Falls Kiser Photo Co. 30
+ An Original American C. C. Hutchins 30
+ *View from elevation west of St. Peter's
+ Dome Kiser Photo Co. 31
+ *Oneonta Gorge G. M. Weister 32
+ Looking up the Columbia, near Bonneville H. J. Thorne 33
+ Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the
+ Willamette Jas. Waggener, Jr. 33
+ *In the Columbia Canyon at Cascade Kiser Photo Co. 34
+ *The Cascades of the Columbia G. M. Weister 35
+ *Fishwheel below the Cascades, with
+ Table Mountain G. M. Weister 36
+ *Sunrise on the Columbia, from top of
+ Table Mountain Kiser Photo Co. 36
+ Looking down the Columbia below the
+ Cascades L. J. Hicks 38
+ *Wind Mountain and submerged forest G. M. Weister 39
+ Steamboat entering Cascades Locks G. M. Weister 39
+ Moonlight on the Columbia, with clouds
+ on Wind Mountain C. S. Reeves 40
+ *White Salmon River and its Gorge (2) Kiser Photo Co. 41
+ Looking down the Columbia Canyon from
+ White Salmon, Washington S. C. Reeves 42
+ An Oregon Trout Stream L. C. Henrichsen 42
+ Looking up the Columbia from Hood
+ River, Oregon F. C. Howell 43
+ *Hood River, fed by the glaciers of
+ Mount Hood Benj. A. Gifford 43
+ A Late Winter Afternoon; the Columbia
+ from White Salmon C. C. Hutchins 44
+ *Memaloose Island G. M. Weister 44
+ "Gateway to the Inland Empire;" the
+ Columbia at Lyle Kiser Photo Co. 45
+ "Grant Castle" and Palisades of the
+ Columbia below The Dalles G. M. Weister 46
+ *The Dalles of the Columbia, lower
+ channel G. M. Weister 47
+ Cabbage Rock Lee Moorehouse 47
+ A True Fish Story of the Columbia Frank Woodfield 48
+ The Zigzag River in Winter T. Brook White 48
+ *The Dalles, below Celilo G. M. Weister 49
+ The "Witch's Head," an Indian picture rock Lee Moorehouse 50
+ Village of Indian tepees, Umatilla Reservation Lee Moorehouse 50
+ Mount Adams, seen from Eagle Peak Asahel Curtis 51
+ A Clearing in the Forest; Mount Hood from
+ Sandy, Oregon L. C. Henrichsen 51
+ An Indian Madonna and Child Lee Moorehouse 52
+ Finished portion of Canal at Celilo Ed. Ledgerwood 52
+ *Sentinels of "the Wallula Gateway" G. M. Weister 53
+ *Tumwater, the falls of the Columbia at
+ Celilo Kiser Photo Co. 54
+ *Summit of Mount Hood, from west end
+ of ridge G. M. Weister 55
+ North side of Mount Hood, from ridge west
+ of Cloud Cap Inn George R. Miller 57
+ Winter on Mount Hood Rodney L. Glisan 57
+ *Watching the Climbers, from Cloud Cap Inn G. M. Weister 58
+ Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from
+ Cooper Spur E. D. Jorgensen 59
+ Snout of Eliot glacier Prof. W. D. Lyman 59
+ Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper Spur F. W. Freeborn 60
+ Cloud Cap Inn George R. Miller 60
+ *Portland's White Sentinel, Mount Hood G. M. Weister 61
+ *Ice Cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount Hood G. M. Weister 62
+ Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot
+ glacier in Winter Rodney L. Glisan 62
+ *Snow-bridge over great crevasse, Eliot
+ glacier G. M. Weister 63
+ *Coasting down east side of Mount Hood,
+ above Cooper Spur. G. M. Weister 63
+ *Mount Hood, from hills south of The
+ Dalles G. M. Weister 64
+ *Mount Hood, from Larch Mountain L. J. Hicks 65
+ Butterfly on summit of Mount Hood Shoji Endow 66
+ Portland Snow-shoe Club and Club House (2) Rodney L. Glisan 66
+ Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater Rock L. J. Hicks 66
+ Looking across the head of Eliot glacier Shoji Endow 67
+ Mount Hood at night, from Cloud Cap Inn William M. Ladd 67
+ Climbing Mount Hood; the rope anchor (2)
+ George R. Miller and Shoji Endow 68
+ North side of Mount Hood, from moraine of
+ Coe glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 69
+ *Looking west on summit, with Mazama
+ Rock below G. M. Weister 70
+ Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama Rock F. W. Freeborn 70
+ Mount Hood, from Sandy Canyon L. J. Hicks 71
+ Crevasses of Coe glacier (2) Mary C. Voorhees 72
+ *Crevasse and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot glacier G. M. Weister 74
+ Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barret Spur
+ Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 75
+ Ice Cascade, south side of Mount Hood Prof. J. N. LeConte 75
+ Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of
+ Mount Hood Elisha Coalman 76
+ Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for
+ the summit A. M. Grilley 76
+ Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south
+ side L. J. Hicks 77
+ South side of Mount Hood, from
+ Tom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge L. E. Anderson 78
+ Crag on which above view was taken H. J. Thorne 78
+ Part of the "bergschrund" above Crater Rock G. M. Weister 79
+ Prof. Reid and party exploring Zigzag glacier Asahel Curtis 79
+ Mazamas near Crater Rock (2) Asahel Curtis 80
+ Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount Hood E. D. Jorgensen 81
+ Mount Hood Lily William L. Finley 81
+ Mazama party exploring White River
+ glacier (2) Asahel Curtis 82
+ Newton Clark glacier, seen from Cooper Spur Shoji Endow 83
+ Looking from Mount Jefferson to Mount Hood L. J. Hicks 83
+ *Shadow of Mount Hood G. M. Weister 84
+ Snout of Newton Clark glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 84
+ *Mount Hood and Hood River Benj. A. Gifford 85
+ Lava Flume near Trout Lake Ray M. Filloon 86
+ Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red
+ Butte Eugene Bradbury 86
+ Ice Cave in lava bed near Trout Lake Ray M. Filloon 87
+ *Mount Adams, from northeast side of Mount
+ St. Helens G. M. Weister 88
+ Mount Adams, from Trout Creek at Guler L. J. Hicks 89
+ Climbers on South Butte Ray M. Filloon 89
+ Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from
+ Guler at 4 a.m. L. J. Hicks 90
+ Foraging in the Snow Crissie Cameron 90
+ *Steel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount Hood G. M. Weister 91
+ Mazamas Climbing Mount Adams Asahel Curtis 93
+ Mount Adams from lake, with hotel site above Ed. Hess 93
+ Climbing from South Peak to Middle Peak L. J. Hicks 94
+ Mount Adams, seen from Happy Valley Asahel Curtis 94
+ Mount Adams, from Snow-plow Mountain Ed. Hess 95
+ *Wind-whittled Ice near summit of Mount Adams S. C. Smith 95
+ Mazama glacier and Hellroaring Canyon (2) William R. King 96
+ Nearing the Summit of Mount Adams, south side Shoji Endow 97
+ Ice Cascade, above Klickitat glacier Ray M. Filloon 97
+ An Upland Park H. O. Stabler 97
+ Mount Adams and Klickitat glacier Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 98
+ Storm on Klickitat glacier, seen from the
+ Ridge of Wonders Prof. W. D. Lyman 99
+ Snow Cornice and Crevasse, head of
+ Klickitat glacier (2) H. V. Abel and Ray M. Filloon 100
+ Mount Adams, from the Northeast Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 101
+ *Mount Adams, from Sunnyside, Washington Asahel Curtis 102
+ Crevasse in Lava glacier Eugene Bradbury 102
+ North Peak, with the Mountaineers
+ starting for the summit W. M. Gorham 103
+ Snow-bridge over Killing Creek W. H. Gorham 103
+ Route up the Cleaver, north side of
+ Mount Adams Eugene Bradbury 104
+ Looking across Adams glacier Carlyle Ellis 104
+ "The Mountain that was 'God'" seen from
+ Mount Adams Asahel Curtis 105
+ Northwest slope of Mount Adams Prof. Harry Fielding Reid 106
+ Mount Adams from the southwest Prof. W. D. Lyman 107
+ Scenes in the Lewis River Canyon (3) Jas. Waggener, Jr. 108
+ *Mount Adams from Trout Lake Kiser Photo Co. 110
+ Scenes on Lava Bed, south of Mount St.
+ Helens (3) Jas. Waggener, Jr. 111
+ Lava Flume, south of Mount St. Helens Jas. Waggener, Jr. 112
+ Entrance to Lava Flume Rodney L. Glisan 112
+ Mount St. Helens, seen from Portland L. C. Henrichsen 113
+ *Mount St. Helens, from Chelatchie Prairie
+ Jas. Waggener, Jr. 114
+ Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin Buttes Ray M. Filloon 115
+ Canyons of South Toutle River U. S. Forest Service 116
+ Lower Toutle Canyon Jas. Waggener, Jr. 116
+ Northeast side of Mount St. Helens Dr. U. M. Lauman 117
+ Mazamas on summit of Mt. St. Helens
+ shortly before sunset Marion Randall Parsons 117
+ Mount St. Helens in Winter Dr. U. M. Lauman 118
+ Mount St. Helens, north side, from near
+ the snow line Dr. U. M. Lauman 119
+ Glacier Scenes, east of the "Lizard." (2) Dr. U. M. Lauman 120
+ *Finest of the St. Helens glaciers G. M. Weister 121
+ *Road among the Douglas Firs Asahel Curtis 122
+ Ships loading lumber at one of
+ Portland's mills The Timberman 123
+ Outposts of the Forest Shoji Endow 123
+ Alpine Hemlocks at the timber line Ray M. Filloon 124
+ Mazamas at the foot of Mount St. Helens E. S. Curtis 124
+ A Lowland Ravine E. S. Curtis 125
+ *The Noble Fir Kiser Photo Co. 125
+ Dense Hemlock Forest G. M. Weister 126
+ Mount Hood, from Ghost-tree Ridge George R. Miller 126
+ *A Group of Red Cedars Asahel Curtis 128
+ Road to Government Camp A. M. Grilley 129
+ Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County,
+ Washington Jas. Waggener, Jr. 130
+ *Where Man is a Pigmy G. M. Weister 130
+ Hemlock growing on Cedar log Asahel Curtis 131
+ Tideland Spruce Frank Woodfield 131
+ Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir and Yellow Pine Jas. Waggener, Jr. 132
+ Yellow Cedar, with young Silver Fir H. D. Norton 133
+ *One of the Kings of Treeland Benj. A. Gifford 133
+ *Firs and Vine Maples Jas. Waggener, Jr. 134
+ Log Raft Benj. A. Gifford 134
+ A "Burn" on Mount Hood, overgrown with
+ Squaw Grass Asahel Curtis 135
+ *A Noble Fir Benj. A. Gifford 136
+ Western White Pine Unknown 136
+ A Clatsop Forest H. D. Langille 137
+ Carpet of Firs J. E. Ford 137
+ Winter in the Forest, near Mount Hood E. D. Jorgensen 138
+ Rangers' Pony Trail A. P. Cronk 138
+ Forest Fire on East Fork of Hood River William M. Ladd 139
+ Reforestation; three generations of
+ young growth H. D. Langille 139
+ Klickitat River Canyon William R. King 144
+
+
+MAPS.
+
+ The Scenic Northwest 13
+ Mount Hood 58
+ Mount Adams 87
+ Mount St. Helens 107
+
+[Illustration: THE SCENIC NORTHWEST
+
+Relief Map to accompany
+
+"THE GUARDIANS _of the_ COLUMBIA"
+
+by John H. Williams
+
+Designed by G. H. Mulldorfer.--Portland.]
+
+[Illustration: A Gray Day on the Columbia. Telephotograph of Mount Hood
+from the river opposite Vancouver Barracks.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Trout Lake and Mount Adams.]
+
+
+
+
+THE GUARDIANS OF THE COLUMBIA
+
+
+
+
+I.
+
+THE RIVER
+
+ The Columbia, viewed as one from the sea to the
+ mountains, is like a rugged, broad-topped picturesque
+ old oak, about six hundred miles long, and nearly a
+ thousand miles wide, measured across the spread of its
+ upper branches, the main limbs gnarled and swollen
+ with lakes and lake-like expansions, while innumerable
+ smaller lakes shine like fruit among the smaller
+ branches.--_John Muir._
+
+
+ON a frosty morning of last July, before sunrise, I stood upon the
+belvedere of the delightful Cloud Cap Inn, which a public-spirited man
+of Portland has provided for visitors to the north side of Mount Hood;
+and from that superb viewpoint, six thousand feet above sea level,
+watched the day come up out of the delicate saffron east. Behind us lay
+Eliot Glacier, sloping to the summit of the kindling peak. Before us
+rose--an ocean!
+
+[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, seen from the Columbia at Vancouver,
+with railway bridge in foreground.]
+
+Never was a marine picture of greater stress. No watcher from the
+crags, none who go down to the sea in ships, ever beheld a scene more
+awful. Ceaselessly the mighty surges piled up against the ridge at our
+feet, as if to tear away the solid foundations of the mountain. Towers
+and castles of foam were built up, huge and white, against the sullen
+sky, only to hurl themselves into the gulf. Far to the north, dimly
+above this gray and heaving surface were seen the crests of three
+snow-mantled mountains, paler even than the undulating expanse from
+which they emerged. All between was a wild sea that rolled across sixty
+miles of space to assail those ghostly islands.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+View up the Columbia on north side, opposite Astoria. Noon rest of the
+night fishermen. Much of the fishing on the lower Columbia is done at
+night with gill-nets from small boats. The river is here six miles
+wide.]
+
+Yet the tossing breakers gave forth no roar. It was a spectral and
+pantomimic ocean. We "had sight of Proteus rising from the sea," but no
+Triton of the upper air blew his "wreathed horn." Cold and uncanny, all
+that seething ocean was silent as a windless lake under summer stars. It
+was a sea of clouds.
+
+[Illustration: Astoria in 1813, showing the trading post established by
+John Jacob Astor.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Looking north from lower end of Eliot Glacier on Mount Hood, across the
+Cascade ranges and the Columbia River canyon, twenty-five miles away, to
+Mount Adams (right), Mount Rainier-Tacoma (center), and Mount St. Helens
+(left). These snow-peaks are respectively 60, 100, and 60 miles
+distant.]
+
+Swiftly the dawn marched westward. The sun, breaking across the eastern
+ridges, sent long level beams to sprinkle the cloud-sea with silver. Its
+touch was magical. The billows broke and parted. The mists fled in
+panic. Cloud after cloud arose and was caught away into space. The
+tops of the Cascade ranges below came, one by one, into view. Lower and
+lower, with the shortening shadows, the wooded slopes were revealed in
+the morning light. Here and there some deep vale was still white and
+hidden. Scattered cloud-fleeces clung to pinnacles on the cliffs.
+Northward, the snow-peaks in Washington towered higher. Great banks of
+fog embraced their forested abutments, and surged up to their glaciers.
+But the icy summits smiled in the gladness of a new day. The reign of
+darkness and mist was broken.
+
+ Never did sun more beautifully steep
+ In his first splendor valley, rock or hill.
+
+Clearer and wider the picture grew. Below us, the orchards of Hood River
+caught the fresh breezes and laughed in the first sunshine. The day
+reached down into the nearer canyons, and saluted the busy, leaping
+brooks. Noisy waterfalls filled the glens with spray, and built rainbows
+from bank to bank, then hurried and tumbled on, in conceited haste, as
+if the ocean must run dry unless replenished by their wetness ere the
+sun should set again. Rippling lakes, in little mountain pockets,
+signaled their joy as blankets of dense vapor were folded up and quickly
+whisked away.
+
+[Illustration: Columbia Slough in Winter, near the mouth of the
+Willamette.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+Cape Horn, tall basaltic cliffs that rise, terrace upon terrace, on the
+north side of the Columbia, twenty-five miles east of Portland. Lone
+Rock is seen in the distance.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+St. Peter's Dome, an 800-foot crag on the south bank of the Columbia;
+Mt. Adams in the distance
+
+ "Uplift against the blue walls of the sky
+ Your mighty shapes, and let the sunshine weave
+ Its golden network in your belting woods;
+ Smile down in rainbows from your falling floods,
+ And on your kingly brows at morn and eve
+ Set crowns of fire."--Whittier.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from Columbia Slough.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, FRANK WOODFIELD
+
+Campfire of Yakima Indians gathered at the Astoria Centennial, 1911, to
+take part in "The Bridge of the Gods," a dramatization of Balch's famous
+story. The celebration of the one hundredth anniversary of the Astor
+trading post at the mouth of the Columbia was made noteworthy by a
+revival of Indian folk lore, in which the myth of the great tamahnawas
+bridge held first place.] Thirty miles northeast, a ribbon of gold
+flashed the story of a mighty stream at The Dalles. Far beyond, even to
+the uplands of the Umatilla and the Snake, to the Blue Mountains of
+eastern Washington and Oregon, stretched the wheat fields and stock
+ranges of that vast "Inland Empire" which the great river watered; while
+westward, cut deep through a dozen folds of the Cascades, the chasm
+it had torn on its way to the sea was traced in the faint blue that
+distance paints upon evergreen hills. Out on our left, beyond the
+mountains, the Willamette slipped down its famous valley to join the
+larger river; and still farther, a hundred and fifty miles away, our
+glasses caught the vague gray line of the Pacific. Within these limits
+of vision lay a noble and historic country, the lower watershed of the
+Columbia.
+
+ Earth has not anything to show more fair.
+
+
+[Illustration: Sunset at the mouth of the Columbia. Cape Hancock on
+right, Point Adams on left. View from river off Astoria.]
+
+[Illustration: Northern part of Portland, showing the Willamette River
+flowing through it, and indicating relative position of the three
+snow-peaks. Mount Hood (right) and Mount St. Helens (left) are each
+about fifty miles away, while Mount Adams, seen between, is twenty miles
+farther.]
+
+[Illustration: "The Coming of the White Man" and "Sacajawea," statues in
+Portland City Park which commemorate the aboriginal Americans.]
+
+Wide as was the prospect, however, it called the imagination to a still
+broader view; to look back, indeed,--how many millions of years?--to an
+earlier dawn, bounded by the horizons of geological time. Let us try to
+realize the panorama thus unfolded. As we look down from some aerial
+viewpoint, behold! there is no Mount Hood and no Cascade Range. The
+volcanic snow-peaks of Oregon and Washington are still embryo in the
+womb of earth. We stand face to face with the beginnings of the
+Northwest.
+
+Far south and east of our castle-in-the-air, islands rise slowly out of
+a Pacific that has long rolled, unbroken, to the Rocky Mountains. We
+see the ocean bed pushed above the tide in what men of later ages will
+call the Siskiyou and the Blue Mountains, one range in southwestern, the
+other in eastern, Oregon. A third uptilt, the great Okanogan, in
+northern Washington, soon appears. All else is sea. Upon these primitive
+uplands, the date is written in the fossil archives of their ancient sea
+beaches, raised thousands of feet above the former shore-line level. At
+a time when all western Europe was still ocean, and busy foraminifers
+were strewing its floor with shells to form the chalk beds of France and
+England, these first lands of our Northwest emerged from the great deep.
+It is but a glimpse we get into the immeasurable distance of the
+Paleozoic. Its time-units are centuries instead of minutes.
+
+[Illustration: Sunset on Vancouver Lake, near Vancouver, Washington.]
+
+[Illustration: Fort Vancouver in 1852.]
+
+Another glance, as the next long geological age passes, and we perceive
+a second step in the making of the West. It is the gradual uplift of a
+thin sea-dike, separating the two islands first disclosed, and
+stretching from the present Lower California to our Alaska. It is a
+folding of the earth's crust that will, for innumerable ages, exercise a
+controlling influence upon the whole western slope of North America. At
+first merely a sea-dike, we see it slowly become a far-reaching range of
+hills, and then a vast continental mountain system, covering a broad
+region with its spurs and interlying plateaus. "The highest mountains,"
+our school geographies used to tell us, "parallel the deepest oceans."
+So here, bordering its profound depths, the Pacific ocean, through
+centuries of centuries, thrust upward, fold on fold, the lofty ridges of
+this colossal Sierra-Cascade barrier, to be itself a guide of further
+land building, a governor of climate, and a reservoir of water for
+valleys and river basins as yet unborn.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Rooster Rock, south bank of the Columbia.]
+
+[Illustration: Seining for salmon on the lower Columbia.]
+
+Behind this barrier, what revolutions are recorded! The inland sea, at
+first a huge body of ocean waters, becomes in time a fresh-water lake.
+In its three thousand feet of sediment, it buries the fossils of a
+strange reptilian life, covering hundreds of thousands of years. Cycle
+follows cycle, altering the face of all that interior basin. Its vast
+lake is lessened in area as it is cut off from the Utah lake on the
+south and hemmed in by upfolds on the north. Then its bed is lifted up
+and broken by forces of which our present-day experiences give us no
+example. Instead of one great lake, as drainage proceeds, we behold at
+last a wide country of many lakes and rivers. Their shores are clothed
+in tropical vegetation. Under the palms, flourish a race of giant
+mammals. The broad-faced ox, the mylodon, mammoth, elephant, rhinoceros,
+and mastodon, and with them the camel and the three-toed horse, roam the
+forests that are building the coal deposits for a later age. This story
+of the Eocene and Miocene time is also told in the fossils of the
+period, and we may read it in the strata deposited by the lakes.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+The Columbia near Butler, looking across to Multnomah Falls.]
+
+[Illustration: Captain Som-Kin, chief of Indian police, Umatilla
+reservation.]
+
+[Illustration: Multnomah Falls in Summer and Winter. This fascinating
+cascade, the most famous in the Northwest, falls 720 feet into a basin,
+and then 130 feet to the bank of the Columbia below.
+
+PHOTOS COPYRIGHT, KISER]
+
+Age succeeds age, not always distinct, but often overlapping one
+another, and all changing the face of nature. The Coast Range rises,
+shutting in vast gulfs to fill later, and form the valleys of the
+Sacramento and San Joaquin in California and the Willamette in Oregon,
+with the partly filled basin of Puget Sound in Washington. Centering
+along the Cascade barrier, an era of terrific violence shakes the very
+foundation of the Northwest. Elevations and contours are changed. New
+lake beds are created. Watersheds and stream courses are remodeled. Dry
+"coulees" are left where formerly rivers flowed. Strata are uptilted and
+riven, to be cross-sectioned again by the new rivers as they cut new
+canyons in draining the new lakes. Most important of all, outflows of
+melted rock, pouring from fissures in the changing earth-folds, spread
+vast sheets of basalt, trap and andesite over most of the interior.
+Innumerable craters build cones of lava and scoriæ along the Cascade
+uptilt, and scatter clouds of volcanic ashes upon the steady sea winds,
+to blanket the country for hundreds of miles with deep layers of future
+soil.
+
+A reign of ice follows the era of tropic heat. Stupendous glaciers grind
+the volcanic rocks, and carving new valleys, endow them with fertility
+for new forests that will rise where once the palm forests stood. With
+advancing age, the earth grows cold and quiet, awakening only to an
+occasional volcanic eruption or earthquake as a reminder of former
+violence. The dawn of history approaches. The country slowly takes on
+its present shape. Landscape changes are henceforth the work of milder
+forces, erosion by streams and remnant glaciers. Man appears.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+View from the cliffs at Multnomah Falls (seen on right). Castle Rock is
+in distance on north side.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+The broad Columbia, seen from Lone Rock, a small island east of Cape
+Horn. Shows successive ranges of the Cascades cut by the river, with
+Archer and Arrowhead Mountains and Castle Rock in distance on north
+side.]
+
+[Illustration: Castle Rock, a huge tower of columnar basalt, 1146 feet
+high, on north bank of the Columbia, forty miles east of Portland. View
+from Mosquito Island.]
+
+Throughout the cycles of convulsion and revolution which we have
+witnessed from our eyrie in the clouds, the vital and increasing
+influence in the building of the Northwest has been the Cascade upfold.
+First, it merely shuts in a piece of the Pacific. Rising higher, its
+condensation of the moist ocean wind feeds the thousand streams that
+convert the inland seas thus enclosed from salt to fresh water, and
+furnish the silt deposited over their floors. The fractures and faults
+resulting from its uptilting spread an empire with some of the largest
+lava flows in geological history. It pushes its snow-covered volcanoes
+upward, to scatter ashes far to the east. Finally, its increasing height
+converts a realm of tropical verdure into semi-arid land, which only its
+rivers, impounded by man, will again make fertile.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+The Columbia, opposite Oneonta Bluffs and Gorge, and Horsetail Falls.]
+
+[Illustration: An original American--"Jake" Hunt, former Klickitat
+chief, 112 years old. He is said to be the oldest Indian on the
+Columbia.]
+
+In all this great continental barrier, throughout the changes which we
+have witnessed, there has been only one sea-level pass. For nearly a
+thousand miles northward from the Gulf of California, the single outlet
+for the waters of the interior is the remarkable canyon which we first
+saw from the distant roof of Cloud Cap Inn. Here the Columbia, greatest
+of Western rivers, has cut its way through ranges rising more than 4,000
+feet on either hand. This erosion, let us remember, has been continuous
+and gradual, rather than the work of any single epoch. It doubtless
+began when the Cascade Mountains were in their infancy, a gap in the
+prolonged but low sea-dike. The drainage, first of the vast salt lake
+shut off from the ocean, and then of the succeeding fresh-water lakes,
+has preserved this channel to the sea, cutting it deeper and deeper as
+the earth-folds rose higher, until at last the canyon became one of the
+most important river gorges in the world. Thus nature prepared a vast
+and fruitful section of the continent for human use, and provided it
+with a worthy highway to the ocean.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+View from 2,300 foot elevation, west of St. Peter's Dome. The Columbia
+here hurries down from The Cascades with a speed varying in different
+seasons from six to ten miles per hour. Mosquito Island lies below, with
+Castle Rock opposite. Beyond, the beautiful wooded ridges rise to 4,100
+feet in Arrowhead and Table Mountains, and the snowy dome of Mount Adams
+closes the scene, fifty miles away.]
+
+Over this beautiful region we may descry yet another dawn, the
+beginnings of the Northwestern world according to Indian legend. The
+Columbia River Indian, like his brothers in other parts of the country,
+was curious about the origin of the things he beheld around him, and
+oppressed by things he could not see. The mysteries both of creation and
+of human destiny weighed heavily upon his blindness; and his mind,
+pathetically groping in the dark, was ever seeking to penetrate the
+distant past and the dim future. So far as he had any religion, it was
+connected with the symbols of power in nature, the forces which he saw
+at work about him. These forces were often terrible and ruinous, so his
+gods were as often his enemies as his benefactors. Feeling his
+powerlessness against their cunning, he borrowed a cue from the "animal
+people," Watetash, who used craft to circumvent the malevolent gods.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Oneonta Gorge, south side of the Columbia, thirty-three miles east of
+Portland.]
+
+These animal people, the Indian believed, had inhabited the world before
+the time of the first grandfather, when the sun was as yet only a star,
+and the earth, too, had grown but little, and was only a small island.
+The chief of the animal people was Speelyei, the coyote, not the
+mightiest but the shrewdest of them all. Speelyei was the friend of
+"people". He had bidden people to appear, and they "came out."
+
+[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia, near Bonneville. The main
+channel of the river is on right of the shoal in foreground.]
+
+[Illustration: Salmon trying to jump the Falls of the Willamette at
+Oregon City.]
+
+One of the most interesting attempts to account for the existence of the
+Red Man in the Northwest is the Okanogan legend that tells of an island
+far out at sea inhabited by a race of giant whites, whose chief was a
+tall and powerful woman, Scomalt. When her giants warred among
+themselves, Scomalt grew angry and drove all the fighters to the end of
+the island. Then she broke off the end of the island, and pushing with
+her foot sent it floating away over the sea. The new island drifted far.
+All the people on it died save one man and one woman. They caught a
+whale, and its blubber saved them from starving. At last they escaped
+from the island by making a canoe. In this they paddled many days. Then
+they came to the mainland, but it was small. It had not yet grown much.
+Here they landed. But while they had been in the canoe, the sun had
+turned them from white to red. All the Okanogans were their children.
+Hence they all are red. Many years from now the whole of the mainland
+will be cut loose from its foundations, and become an island. It will
+float about on the sea. That will be the end of the world.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+In the Columbia Canyon at Cascade, with train on the "North Bank" road.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+The Cascades of the Columbia. The narrow, rock-filled channel has a fall
+of thirty-seven feet in four miles. Here the river meets the tides from
+the ocean, 160 miles away. On the opposite bank, at right, is seen Table
+Mountain, 4,100 feet, the north abutment of the legendary "Bridge of the
+Gods."]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Fishwheel below the Cascades, with Table Mountain on north side of
+river.]
+
+To the aboriginal Americans in the Northwest the great river, "Wauna" in
+their vocabulary, was inevitably a subject of deep interest. It not only
+furnished them a highway, but it supplied them with food. Their most
+fascinating myths are woven about its history. One of these told of the
+mighty struggle between Speelyei and Wishpoosh, the greedy king beaver,
+which resulted in breaking down the walls of the great lakes of the
+interior and creating a passage for their waters through the mountains.
+Thus the Indians accounted for the Columbia and its canyon.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+Sunrise on the Columbia; view at 4 a. m. from top of Table Mountain.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+Nightfall on the Columbia.
+
+ "O love, they die in yon rich sky,
+ They faint on hill or field or river:
+ Our echoes roll from soul to soul,
+ And grow forever and forever."--Tennyson.]
+
+But first among the river myths must always be the Klickitat legend of
+the famous natural bridge, fabled to have stood where the Cascades of
+the Columbia now are. This is one of the most beautiful legends
+connected with the source of fire, a problem of life in all the northern
+lands. Further, it tells the origin of the three snow-peaks that are the
+subject of this book.
+
+[Illustration: Looking down the Columbia below the Cascades, showing
+many ranges cut by the river. On the left of the scene is "Sliding
+Mountain," its name a reminder that the hillsides on both banks are
+slowly moving toward the stream and compelling the railways occasionally
+to readjust their tracks.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Wind Mountain and remnant of submerged forest, above the Cascades, at
+low water.]
+
+[Illustration: Steamboat entering Cascade Locks.]
+
+In the time of their remote grandfathers, said the Klickitats, Tyhee
+Saghalie, chief of the gods, had two sons. They made a trip together
+down the river to where The Dalles are now. The sons saw that the
+country was beautiful, and quarrelled as to its possession. Then
+Saghalie shot an arrow to the north and an arrow to the west. The sons
+were bidden to find the arrows, and settle where they had fallen. Thus
+one son settled in the fair country between the great river and the
+Yakima, and became the grandfather of the Klickitats. The other son
+settled in the Willamette valley and became the ancestor of the large
+Multnomah tribe. To keep peace between the two tribes, Saghalie raised
+the great mountains that separate those regions. But there were not yet
+any snow-peaks. The great river also flowed very deep between the
+country of the Klickitats and the country of the Multnomahs. That the
+tribes might always be friendly, Saghalie built a huge bridge of stone
+over the river. The Indians called it the tamahnawas bridge, or bridge
+of the gods. The great river flowed under it, and a witch-woman, Loowit,
+lived on it. Loowit had charge of the only fire in the world.
+
+[Illustration: Moonlight upon the Columbia, with clouds on Wind
+Mountain. Looking up the river from the Cascades.]
+
+[Illustration: White Salmon River and its Gorge, south of Mount Adams.
+
+PHOTOS COPYRIGHT, KISER]
+
+Loowit saw how miserable the tribes were without fire. Therefore she
+besought Saghalie to permit her to give them fire. Saghalie granted her
+request. Thus a fire was kindled on the bridge. The Indians came there
+and obtained fire, which greatly improved their condition. Saghalie was
+so much pleased with Loowit's faithfulness that he promised the
+witch-woman anything she might ask. Loowit asked for youth and beauty.
+So Saghalie transformed her into a beautiful maiden.
+
+[Illustration: Looking down the Columbia Canyon from the cliffs at White
+Salmon, Washington.]
+
+[Illustration: An Oregon Trout Stream.]
+
+Many chiefs fell in love with Loowit because of her beauty. But she paid
+heed to none till there came two other chiefs, Klickitat from the north,
+Wiyeast from the west. As she could not decide which of them to accept
+as her husband, they and their people went to war. Great distress came
+upon the people because of this fighting. Saghalie grew angry at their
+evil doing, and determined to punish them. He broke down the tamahnawas
+bridge, and put Loowit, Wiyeast and Klickitat to death. But they had
+been beautiful in life, therefore Saghalie would have them beautiful in
+death. So he made of them the three famous snow-peaks. Wiyeast became
+the mountain which white men call Mount Hood; Klickitat became Mount
+Adams; Loowit was changed into Mount St. Helens. Always, said Saghalie,
+they should be clothed in garments of snow.
+
+[Illustration: Looking up the Columbia from Hood River, Oregon.]
+
+Thus was the wonderful tamahnawas bridge destroyed, and the great river
+dammed by the huge rocks that fell into it. That caused the Cascade
+rapids. Above the rapids, when the river is low, you can still see the
+forests that were buried when the bridge fell down and dammed the
+waters.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD
+
+Hood River, fed by the glaciers of Mount Hood.]
+
+This noteworthy myth, fit to rank with the folk-lore masterpieces of any
+primitive people, Greek or Gothic, is of course only a legend. The
+Indian was not a geologist. True, we see the submerged forests to-day,
+at low water. But their slowly decaying trunks were killed, perhaps not
+much more than a century ago, by a rise in the river that was not caused
+by the fall of a natural bridge, but by a landslide from the mountains.
+
+[Illustration: A Late Winter Afternoon. View across the Columbia from
+White Salmon to the mouth of Hood River, showing the Hood River Valley
+with Mount Hood wrapped in clouds.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Memaloose Island, or Island of the Dead, last resting place of thousands
+of Indians. The lone monument is that of Maj. Victor Trevitt, a
+celebrated pioneer, who asked to be buried here among "honest men."]
+
+There is a slow and glacier-like motion of the hillsides here which from
+time to time compels the railways on either bank to readjust their
+tracks. The rapids at the Cascades, with their fall of nearly forty
+feet, are doubtless the result of comparatively recent volcanic action.
+Shaking down vast masses of rock, this dammed the river, and caused it
+to overflow its wooded shores above. But to the traveler on a steamboat
+breasting the terrific current below the government locks, as he looks
+up to the towering heights on either side of the narrowed channel, the
+invention of poor Lo's untutored mind seems almost as easy to believe as
+the simpler explanation of the scientist.
+
+[Illustration: "Gateway to the Inland Empire." Towering cliffs of
+stratified lava that guard the Columbia on each bank at Lyle,
+Washington.]
+
+Remarkable as is this fire myth of the tamahnawas bridge, the legend
+inspired by the peculiarities of northwestern climate is no less
+beautiful. This climate differs materially, it is well known, from that
+of eastern America in the same latitude. The Japan Current warms the
+coast of Oregon and Washington just as the Gulf Stream warms the coast
+of Ireland. East of the Cascade Mountains, the severe cold of a northern
+winter is tempered by the "Chinook" winds from the Pacific. A period of
+freezing weather is shortly followed by the melting of the snow upon the
+distant mountains; by night the warm Chinook sweeps up the Columbia
+canyon and across the passes, and in a few hours the mildness of spring
+covers the land.
+
+[Illustration: "Grant Castle" and Palisades of the Columbia, on north
+side of the river below The Dalles.]
+
+Such a phenomenon inevitably stirred the Indian to an attempt to
+interpret it. Like the ancients of other races, he personified the
+winds. The Yakima account of the struggle between the warm winds from
+the coast and the icy blasts out of the Northeast will bear comparison
+with the Homeric tale of Ulysses, buffeted by the breezes from the bag
+given him by the wind-god Aeolus.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+The Dalles of the Columbia, lower channel, east of Dalles City. The
+river, crowded into a narrow flume, flows here at a speed often
+exceeding ten miles an hour.]
+
+Five Chinook brothers, said the Yakima tradition, lived on the great
+river. They caused the warm winds to blow. Five other brothers lived at
+Walla Walla, the meeting place of the waters. They caused the cold
+winds. The grandparents of them all lived at Umatilla, home of the
+wind-blown sands. Always there was war between them. They swept over the
+country, destroying the forests, covering the rivers with ice, or
+melting the snows and causing floods. The people suffered much because
+of their violence.
+
+[Illustration: Cabbage Rock, a huge freak of nature standing in the open
+plain four miles north of The Dalles. Apparently, the lava core of a
+small extinct crater.]
+
+Then Walla Walla brothers challenged Chinook brothers to wrestle.
+Speelyei, the coyote god, should judge the contest. He should cut off
+the heads of those who fell.
+
+[Illustration: A True Fish Story of the Columbia, where four- and even
+five-foot salmon are not uncommon.]
+
+The crafty Speelyei secretly advised the grandparents of Chinook
+brothers that if they would throw oil on the ground, their sons would
+not fall. This they did. But Speelyei also told the grandparents of
+Walla Walla brothers that if they would throw ice on the ground, their
+sons would not fall. This they did. So the Chinook brothers were thrown
+one after another, and Speelyei cut off their heads, according to the
+bargain. So the five Chinook brothers were dead.
+
+But the oldest of them left an infant son. The child's mother brought
+him up to avenge the killing of his kinsmen. So the son grew very
+strong, until he could pull up great fir trees as if they were weeds.
+Then Walla Walla brothers challenged Young Chinook to wrestle. Speelyei
+should judge the contest. He should cut off the heads of those who fell.
+Secretly Speelyei advised Young Chinook's grandparents to throw oil on
+the ground last. This they did. So Walla Walla brothers were thrown one
+after another by Young Chinook, until four of them had fallen. Only the
+youngest of them was left. His heart failed him, and he refused to
+wrestle. Speelyei pronounced this sentence upon him: "You shall live,
+but you shall no longer have power to freeze people." To Young Chinook,
+he said: "You must blow only lightly, and you must blow first upon the
+mountains, to warn people of your coming."
+
+[Illustration: The Zigzag river in winter, south side of Mount Hood.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER
+
+The Dalles. This name, meaning literally flat stones, was given by the
+early French-Canadian voyageurs to the twelve-mile section below Celilo,
+where, the Columbia has cut through the level lava strata, forming a
+channel in some places less than 200 feet wide and nearly 200 feet deep
+at low water. At higher stages the river fills many lateral channels and
+roars past many islands of its own carving.]
+
+The last dawn of all opens upon the white man's era. On the Columbia,
+recorded history is recent, but already epic. Its story is outside the
+purpose of this volume. But it is worth while, in closing our brief
+glance at the field, to note that this story has been true to its
+setting. Rich in heroism and romance, it is perhaps the most typical, as
+it is the latest, chapter in the development of the West. For this land
+of the river, its quarter-million square miles stretching far northward
+to Canada, and far eastward to the Yellowstone, built about with
+colossal mountains, laced with splendid waterways, jeweled with
+beautiful lakes, where upheaval and eruption, earthquake and glacier
+have prepared a home for a great and happy population, has already been
+the scene of a drama of curious political contradictions and remarkable
+popular achievement.
+
+[Illustration: The "Witch's Head," an Indian picture rock at the old
+native village of Wishram, north side of the Columbia near Celilo Falls.
+The Indians believe that if an unfaithful wife passes this rock, its
+eyes follow her with mute accusation.]
+
+[Illustration: Village of Indian Tepees, Umatilla Reservation, near
+Pendleton, Oregon. Many of these Indians are rich landowners, but they
+prefer tents to houses.]
+
+The Columbia River basin, alone of all the territories which the United
+States has added to its original area, was neither bought with money nor
+annexed by war. Its acquisition was a triumph of the American pioneer.
+Many nations looked with longing to this Northwest, but it fell a prize
+to the nation that neglected it. Spain and Russia wished to own it.
+Great Britain claimed and practically held it. The United States
+ignored it. For nearly half a century after the discovery of the river
+by a Yankee ship captain, Robert Gray, in 1792, and its exploration by
+Jefferson's expedition under Lewis and Clark, in 1805, its ownership was
+in question. For several decades after an American merchant, John Jacob
+Astor, had established the first unsuccessful trading post, in 1811, the
+country was actually ruled by the British through a private corporation.
+The magic circle drawn about it by the Hudson's Bay Company seemed
+impenetrable. Held nominally by the American and British governments in
+joint occupancy, it was in fact left to the halfbreed servants of a
+foreign monopoly that sought to hold an empire for its fur trade, and to
+exclude settlers because their farms would interfere with its beaver
+traps. Congress deemed the region worthless.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from Eagle Peak in the Rainier National
+Park. View shows some of the largest earth-folds in the Cascade Range,
+with the great canyon of the Cowlitz, one of the tributaries of the
+Columbia River. Elevation of camera 6,000 feet.]
+
+[Illustration: A clearing in the forest. Mount Hood from Sandy,
+twenty-five miles west of the peak.]
+
+But while sleepy diplomacy played its game of chess between Washington
+and London, the issue was joined, the title cleared and possession taken
+by a breed of men to whom the United States owes more than it can ever
+pay. From far east came the thin vanguard of civilization which, for a
+century after the old French and Indian war, pushed our boundaries
+resistlessly westward. It had seized the "dark and bloody ground" of
+Kentucky. It had held the Ohio valley for the young republic during the
+Revolution. It had built states from the Alleghanies to the Mississippi.
+And now, dragging its wagons across the plains and mountains, it burst,
+sun-browned and half-starved, into Oregon. Missionaries and traders,
+farmers, politicians and speculators, it was part of that army of
+restless spirits who, always seeing visions of more fertile lands and
+rising cities beyond, stayed and long in no place, until at last they
+found their way barred by the Pacific, and therefore stayed to build the
+commonwealths of Oregon, Washington and Idaho.
+
+[Illustration: An Indian Madonna and Child. Umatilla Reservation.]
+
+[Illustration: Finished portion of Canal at Celilo, which the Government
+is building around Tumwater Falls and The Dalles.]
+
+The arena of their peaceful contest was worthy of their daring. "'A land
+of old upheaven from the abyss,' a land of deepest deeps and highest
+heights, of richest verdure here, and barest desolation there, of dense
+forest on one side, and wide extended prairies on the other; a land of
+contrasts, contrasts in contour, hues, productions, and history,"--thus
+Professor Lyman describes the stage which the pioneers found set for
+them.
+
+The tremendous problems of its development, due to its topography, its
+remoteness, its magnificent distances, and its lack of transportation,
+demanded men of sturdiest fiber and intrepid leading. No pages of our
+history tell a finer story of action and initiative than those which
+enroll the names of McLoughlin, the great Company's autocratic governor,
+not unfitly called "the father of Oregon," and Whitman, the martyr, with
+the frontier leaders who fashioned the first ship of state launched in
+the Northwest, and their contemporaries, the men who built the first
+towns, roads, schools, mills, steamboats and railways.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER
+
+The grim sentinels of "the Wallula Gateway," huge basaltic pillars that
+rise on the south bank of the river, where it crosses the
+Washington-Oregon line. View looking south.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+Tumwater, the falls of the Columbia at Celilo; total drop, twenty feet
+at low water. In Summer, when the snow on the Bitter Root and Rocky
+Mountains is melting, the river rises often more than sixty feet.
+Steamboats have then passed safely down. Wishram, an ancient Indian
+fishing village, was on the north bank below the falls, and Indians may
+often still be seen spearing salmon from the shores and islands here.]
+
+Macaulay tells us that a people who are not proud of their forebears
+will never deserve the pride of their descendants. The makers of Old
+Oregon included as fair a proportion of patriots and heroes as the
+immigrants of the Mayflower. We who journey up or down the Columbia in a
+luxurious steamer, or ride in a train _de luxe_ along its banks, are the
+heirs of their achievement. Honor to the dirt-tanned ox-drivers who
+seized for themselves and us this empire of the river and its guardian
+snow-peaks!
+
+ A lordly river, broad and deep,
+ With mountains for its neighbors, and in view
+ Of distant mountains and their snowy tops.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT. G. M. WEISTER
+
+Summit of Mount Hood, viewed from western end of the ridge, showing
+north side of the peak in July.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+Columbia River and Mt. Hood, seen from White Salmon, Washington.
+
+ "Beloved mountain, I
+ Thy worshiper, as thou the sun's, each morn
+ My dawn, before the dawn, receive from thee;
+ And think, as thy rose-tinted peak I see,
+ That thou wert great when Homer was not born,
+ And ere thou change all human song shall die."--Helen Hunt Jackson.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: North side of Mount Hood, from ridge several miles west
+of Cloud Cap Inn. View shows gorges cut by the glacier-fed streams.
+Cooper Spur is on left sky line. Barret Spur is the great ridge on
+right, with Ladd glacier canyon beyond. Coe glacier is in center.]
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+THE MOUNTAINS.
+
+ Silent and calm, have you e'er scaled the height
+ Of some lone mountain peak, in heaven's sight?
+ --_Victor Hugo._
+
+ There stood Mount Hood in all the glory of the alpen
+ glow, looming immensely high, beaming with
+ intelligence. It seemed neither near nor far.... The
+ whole mountain appeared as one glorious manifestation
+ of divine power, enthusiastic and benevolent, glowing
+ like a countenance with ineffable repose and beauty,
+ before which we could only gaze with devout and lowly
+ admiration.--_John Muir._
+
+[Illustration: Winter on Mount Hood. The roof of the club house of the
+Portland Snow-shoe Club is seen over the ridge.]
+
+FROM the heights which back the city of Portland on the west, one may
+have a view that is justly famous among the fairest prospects in
+America. Below him lies the restless city, busy with its commerce.
+Winding up from the south comes the Willamette, its fine valley narrowed
+here by the hills, where the river forms Portland's harbor, and is lined
+on either side with mills and shipping. Ten miles beyond, the Columbia
+flows down from its canyon on the east, and turns northward, an
+expanding waterway for great vessels, to its broad pass through the
+Coast Range. In every direction, city and country, farm and forest,
+valley and mountain, stretches a noble perspective. From the wide rivers
+and their shining borders, almost at sea level, the scene arises,
+terrace upon terrace, to the encircling hills, and spreads across range
+after range to the summits of the great Cascades.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT G. M. WEISTER
+
+Watching the climbers from the plaza at Cloud Cap Inn, northeast side of
+Mount Hood. Immediately in front, Eliot glacier is seen, dropping into
+its canyon on the right. On the left is Cooper Spur, from which a sharp
+ascent leads to the summit of the peak.]
+
+Dominating all are the snow-peaks, august sentinels upon the horizon. On
+a clear day, the long line of them begins far down in central Oregon,
+and numbers six snowy domes. But any average day includes in its glory
+the three nearest, Hood, Adams, and St. Helens. Spirit-like, they loom
+above the soft Oregon haze, their glaciers signaling from peak to peak,
+and their shining summits bidding the sordid world below to look upward.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Hood, elevation 11,225 feet]
+
+Nature has painted canvases more colorful, but none more perfect in its
+strength and rest. Here is no flare of the desert, none of the
+flamboyant, terrible beauty of the Grand Canyon. It is a land of warm
+ocean winds and cherishing sunshine, where the emeralds and jades of the
+valleys quickly give place to the bluer greens of evergreen forests that
+cover the hill country; and these, in turn, as distance grows, shade
+into the lavenders and grays of the successive ranges. The white peaks
+complete the picture with its most characteristic note. They give it
+distinction.
+
+[Illustration: Lower end of Eliot glacier, seen from Cooper Spur, and
+showing the lateral moraines which this receding glacier has built in
+recent years.]
+
+[Illustration: Snout of Eliot glacier, its V-shaped ice front heavily
+covered with morainal debris.]
+
+Such a panorama justifies Ruskin's bold assertion: "Mountains are the
+beginning and end of all natural scenery." Without its mountains, the
+view from Council Crest would be as uninteresting as that from any tower
+in any prairie city. But all mountains are not alike. In beginning our
+journey to the three great snow-peaks which we have viewed from Portland
+heights, it is well to define, if we may, the special character of our
+Northwestern scene. We sometimes hear the Cascade district praised as
+"the American Switzerland." Such a comparison does injustice alike to
+our mountains and to the Alps. As a wild, magnificent sea of ice-covered
+mountain tops, the Alps have no parallel in America. As a far-reaching
+system of splendid lofty ranges clothed in the green of dense forests
+and surmounted by towering, isolated summits of snowy volcanoes, the
+Cascades are wholly without their equal in Europe. This is the testimony
+of famous travelers and alpinists, among them Ambassador Bryce, who has
+written of our Northwestern mountain scenery:
+
+ We have nothing more beautiful in Switzerland or
+ Tyrol, in Norway or in the Pyrenees. The combination
+ of ice scenery with woodland scenery of the grandest
+ type is to be found nowhere in the Old World, unless
+ it be in the Himalayas, and, so far as we know,
+ nowhere else on the American continent.
+
+[Illustration: Cone of Mount Hood, seen from Cooper Spur on northwest
+side. A popular route to the summit leads along this ridge of volcanic
+scoriæ and up the steep snow slope above.]
+
+[Illustration: Cloud Cap Inn, north side of Mount Hood. Elevation 5,900
+feet.]
+
+In his celebrated chapter of the "Modern Painters" which describes the
+sculpture of the mountains, Ruskin draws a picture of the Alps that at
+once sets them apart from the Cascades:
+
+ The longer I stayed among the Alps, the more I was
+ struck by their being a vast plateau, upon which
+ nearly all the highest peaks stood like children set
+ upon a table, removed far back from the edge, as if
+ for fear of their falling. The most majestic scenes
+ are produced by one of the great peaks having
+ apparently walked to the edge of the table to look
+ over, and thus showing itself suddenly above the
+ valley in its full height. But the raised table is
+ always intelligibly in existence, even in these
+ exceptional cases; and for the most part, the great
+ peaks are not allowed to come to the edge of it, but
+ remain far withdrawn, surrounded by comparatively
+ level fields of mountain, over which the lapping
+ sheets of glacier writhe and flow. The result is the
+ division of Switzerland into an upper and lower
+ mountain world; the lower world consisting of rich
+ valleys, the upper world, reached after the first
+ steep banks of 3,000 to 4,000 feet have been
+ surmounted, consisting of comparatively level but most
+ desolate tracts, half covered by glacier, and
+ stretching to the feet of the true pinnacles of the
+ chain.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Portland's White Sentinel, Mount Hood. Telephoto view from City Park,
+showing a portion of the city, with modern buildings and smoke of
+factories.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Ice cascade on Eliot glacier, Mount Hood.]
+
+Nothing of this in the Cascades! Instead, we have fold upon fold of the
+earth-crust, separated by valleys of great depth. The ranges rise from
+levels but little above the sea. For example, between Portland and
+Umatilla, although they are separated by the mountains of greatest
+actual elevation in the United States, there is a difference of less
+than two hundred and fifty feet, Umatilla, east of the Cascades, being
+only two hundred and ninety-four feet above tide. Trout Lake, lying
+below Mount Adams, at the head of one of the great intermountain
+valleys, has an elevation of less than two thousand feet.
+
+[Illustration: Portland Snow-shoe Club members on Eliot glacier in
+winter.]
+
+Thus, instead of the Northwestern snow-peaks being set far back upon a
+general upland and hidden away behind lesser mountains, to be seen only
+after one has reached the plateau, thousands of feet above sea level,
+they actually rise either from comparatively low peneplanes on one side
+of the Cascades, as in the case of St. Helens, or from the summit of one
+of the narrow, lofty ridges, as do Hood and Adams. But in either case,
+the full elevation is seen near at hand and from many directions--an
+elevation, therefore, greater and more impressive than that of most of
+the celebrated Alpine summits.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Snow-bridge over great crevasse, near head of Eliot glacier.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Coasting down east side of Mount Hood, above Cooper Spur. Mount Adams in
+distance.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Mount Hood from the hills south of The Dalles, showing the comparatively
+timberless country east of the Cascades. Compare this treeless region,
+as well as the profile of Mount Hood here shown, with the view from
+Larch Mountain.]
+
+Famous as is the valley of Chamonix, and noteworthy as are the glaciers
+to which it gives close access, its views of Mont Blanc are
+disappointing. Not until the visitor has scaled one of the neighboring
+_aiguilles_, can he command a satisfactory outlook toward the Monarch of
+the Alps. And nowhere in Switzerland do I recall a picture of such
+memorable splendor as greets the traveler from the Columbia, journeying
+either southward, up the Hood River Valley toward Mount Hood, or
+northward, up the White Salmon Valley toward Trout Lake and Mount Adams.
+Here is unrolled a wealth of fertile lowlands, surrounded by lofty
+ranges made beautiful by their deep forests and rising to grandeur in
+their snow-peaks.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, L. J. HICKS
+
+Mount Hood, seen from Larch Mountain, on the Columbia River. View
+looking southeast across the heavily forested ranges of the Cascades to
+the deep canyons below Ladd and Sandy glaciers.]
+
+[Illustration: Butterfly on the summit of Mount Hood.]
+
+Leaving the canyon of the Columbia, in either direction the road follows
+swift torrents of white glacial water that tell of a source far above.
+It crosses a famous valley, among its orchards and hayfields, but always
+in view of the dark blue mountains and of the snow-covered volcanoes
+that rise before and behind, their glaciers shining like polished steel
+in the sunlight. So the visitor reaches the foot of his mountain. Losing
+sight of it for a time, he follows long avenues of stately trees as he
+climbs the benches. In a few hours he stands upon a barren shoulder of
+the peak, at timber line. A new world confronts him. The glaciers reach
+their icy arms to him from the summit, and he breathes the winds that
+sweep down from their fields of perennial snow.
+
+[Illustration: Members of Portland Snow-shoe Club on way to Mount Hood
+in winter, and at their club house, near Cloud Cap Inn.]
+
+[Illustration: Fumarole, or gas vent, near Crater Rock.]
+
+It is all very different from Switzerland, this quick ascent from
+bending orchards and forested hills to a mighty peak standing white and
+beautiful in its loneliness. But it is so wonderful that Americans who
+love the heights can no longer neglect it, and each year increasing
+numbers are discovering that here in the Northwest is mountain scenery
+worth traveling far to see, with very noble mountains to climb, true
+glaciers to explore, and the widest views of grandeur and interest to
+enjoy. Such sport combines recreation and inspiration.
+
+[Illustration: Looking across the head of Eliot glacier from near the
+summit of Mount Hood.]
+
+The traveler from Portland to either Mount Hood or Mount Adams may go by
+rail or steamer to Hood River, Oregon, or White Salmon, Washington.
+These towns are on opposite banks of the Columbia at its point of
+greatest beauty. Thence he will journey by automobile or stage up the
+corresponding valley to the snow-peak at its head. If he is bound for
+Mount Hood his thirty-mile ride will bring him to a charming mountain
+hotel, Cloud Cap Inn, placed six thousand feet above the sea, on a ridge
+overlooking Eliot glacier, Hood's finest ice stream.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Hood at night, seen from Cloud Cap Inn. This view
+is from a negative exposed from nine o'clock until midnight.]
+
+If Mount Adams be his destination, a ride of similar length from White
+Salmon will bring him merely to the foot of the mountain. The stages
+run only to Guler, on Trout Lake, and to Glenwood. Each of these
+villages has a comfortable country hotel which may be made the base for
+fishing and hunting in the neighborhood. Each is about twelve miles from
+the snow-line. At either place, guides, horses and supplies may be had
+for the trip to the mountain. Glenwood is nearer to the famous
+Hellroaring Canyon and the glaciers of the southeast side. Guler is a
+favorite point of departure for the south slope and for the usual route
+to the summit.
+
+Another popular starting point for Mount Adams is Goldendale, reached by
+a branch of the North Bank railway from Lyle on the Columbia. This route
+also leads to the fine park district on the southeastern slope, and it
+has a special attraction, as it skirts the remarkable canyon of the
+Klickitat River. Many parties also journey to the mountain from North
+Yakima and other towns on the Northern Pacific railway. Hitherto, all
+such travel from either north or south has meant a trip on foot or
+horseback over interesting mountain trails, and has involved the
+necessity of packing in camp equipment and supplies. During the present
+summer, a hotel is to be erected a short distance from the end of Mazama
+glacier, at an altitude of about sixty-five hundred feet, overlooking
+Hellroaring Canyon on one side, and on the other a delightful region of
+mountain tarns, waterfalls and alpine flower meadows. Its verandas will
+command the Mazama and Klickitat glaciers, and an easy route will lead
+to the summit. With practicable roads from Goldendale and Glenwood, it
+should draw hosts of lovers of scenery and climbing, and aid in making
+this great mountain as well known as it deserves to be.
+
+[Illustration: Climbing Mount Hood, with ropes anchored on the summit
+and extending down on east and south faces of the peak.]
+
+[Illustration: North side of Mount Hood, seen from moraine of Coe
+glacier. This glacier flows down from the summit, where its snow-field
+adjoins that of Eliot glacier (left). West of the Coe, the Ladd glacier
+is seen, separated from the former by Pulpit Rock, the big crag in the
+middle distance, and Barrett Spur, the high ridge on the right.]
+
+Visitors going to Mount Hood from Portland have choice of a second very
+attractive hotel base in Government Camp, on the south slope at an
+altitude of thirty-nine hundred feet. This is reached by automobiles
+from the city, over a fair road that will soon be a good road, thanks
+to the Portland Automobile Club. The mountain portion of this highway is
+the historic Barlow road, opened in 1845, the first wagon road
+constructed across the Cascades. As the motor climbs out of the Sandy
+River valley, and grapples the steep moraines built by ancient
+icefields, the traveler gets a very feeling reminder of the pluck of
+Captain Barlow and his company of Oregon "immigrants" in forcing a way
+across these rugged heights. But the beauty of the trip makes it well
+worth while, and Government Camp gives access to a side of the peak that
+should be visited by all who would know how the sun can shatter a big
+mountain with his mighty tools of ice.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Looking west on summit of Mount Hood, with Mazama Rock below.]
+
+[Illustration: Summit of Mount Hood, from Mazama Rock, showing the
+sun-cupped ice of midsummer.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from Sandy River canyon, six miles west
+of snow line. This important picture begins with Barrett Spur and Ladd
+glacier on the north sky line (left). On the northwest face of the peak
+is the main Sandy glacier, its end divided by a ridge into two parts.
+The forested "plowshare" projecting into the canyon is Yocum Ridge.
+South of it the south branch of the Sandy river flows down from a
+smaller glacier called the Little Sandy, or Reid. The broad bottom of
+this canyon and the scored cliffs on its sides show that it was formerly
+occupied by the glacier.]
+
+The hotel here was erected in 1900 by O. C. Yocum, under whose competent
+guidance many hundreds of climbers reached the summit of Mount Hood. The
+Hotel is now owned by Elisha Coalman, who has also succeeded to his
+predecessor's office as guide. During the last year he has enlarged his
+inn, and he is now also building comfortable quarters for climbers at a
+camp four miles nearer the snow line, on the ridge separating White
+River glacier from Zigzag glacier.
+
+
+MOUNT HOOD.
+
+Mount Hood is the highest mountain in Oregon, and because of a general
+symmetry in its pyramidal shape and its clear-cut, far-seen features of
+rock and glacier, it has long been recognized as one of the most
+beautiful of all American snow peaks. Rising from the crest of the
+Cascades, it presents its different profiles and variously sculptured
+faces to the entire valley of the Columbia, east and west, above which
+it towers in stately magnificence, a very king of the mountains, ruling
+over a domain of ranges, valleys and cities proud of their allegiance.
+
+[Illustration: Crevasses on Coe glacier.]
+
+On October 20, 1792, Lieutenant Broughton, of Vancouver's exploring
+expedition in quest of new territories for His Majesty George III.,
+discovered from the Columbia near the mouth of the Willamette, "a very
+distant high snowy mountain, rising beautifully conspicuous," which he
+strangely mistook to be the source of the great river. Forthwith he
+named it in honor of Rear Admiral Samuel Hood, of the British Admiralty
+who had distinguished himself in divers naval battles during the
+American and French Revolutions.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Mount Hood, with Crevasses of Eliot Glacier in foreground.
+
+ "Evermore the wind
+ Is thy august companion; yea, thy peers
+ Are cloud and thunder, and the face sublime
+ Of the blue mid-heaven."--Henry Clarence Kendall.]
+
+The mountain has been climbed more often than any other American
+snow-peak. The first ascent was made on August 4, 1854, from the south
+side, by a party under Captain Barlow, builder of the "immigrant road."
+One of the climbers, Editor Dryer of _The Oregonian_, published an
+account of the trip in which, with more exactness than accuracy, he
+placed the height of the mountain at 18,361 feet! The most notable
+ascent by a large party took place forty years later, when nearly two
+hundred men and women met on the summit, and there, with parliamentary
+dispatch bred of a bitter wind, organized a mountain club which has
+since become famous. For its title they took the name "mazama," Mexican
+for the mountain goat, close kin to the Alpine chamois. Membership was
+opened to those who have scaled a snow-peak on foot. By their
+publications and their annual climbs, the Mazamas have done more than
+any other agency to promote interest in our Northwestern mountains.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Crevasses and Ice Pinnacles on Eliot Glacier, Mount Hood.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount Hood, seen from the top of Barrett Spur. On the
+left, cascading down from the summit, is Coe glacier; on the right, Ladd
+glacier. The high cliff separating them is "Pulpit Rock."]
+
+[Illustration: Ice Cascade, south side of Mount Hood, near head of White
+River glacier.]
+
+Mount Hood stands, as I have said, upon the summit of the Cascades. The
+broad and comparatively level back of the range is here about four
+thousand feet above the sea. Upon this plane the volcano erected its
+cone, chiefly by the expulsion of scoriæ rather than by extensive lava
+flows, to a farther height of nearly a mile and a half. There is no
+reason to suppose that it ever greatly exceeded its present altitude,
+which government observations have fixed at 11,225 feet. Its diameter
+at its base is approximately seven miles from east to west.
+
+[Illustration: Little Sandy or Reid glacier, west side of Mount Hood.]
+
+Compared with Mount Adams, its broken and decapitated northern neighbor,
+Mount Hood, although probably dating from Miocene time, is still young
+enough to have retained in a remarkable degree the general shape of its
+original cone. But as we approach it from any direction, we find
+abundant proof that powerful destructive agents have been busy during
+the later geological ages. Already the summit plateau upon which the
+peak was built up has been largely dissected by the glaciers and their
+streams. The whole neighborhood of the mountain is a vastly rugged
+district of glacial canyons and eroded water channels, trenched deep in
+the soft volcanic ashes and the underlying ancient rock of the range.
+The mountain itself, although still a pyramid, also has its story of age
+and loss. Its eight glaciers have cut away much of its mass. On three
+sides they have burrowed so deeply into the cone that its original
+angle, which surviving ridges show to have been about thirty degrees,
+has on the upper glacial slopes been doubled. This is well illustrated
+by the views shown on pages 58, 61, 69 and 71.
+
+[Illustration: Portland Y. M. C. A. party starting for the summit at
+daybreak. South side of Mount Hood.]
+
+[Illustration: Crater of Mount Hood, seen from south side. Its north rim
+is the distant summit ridge. Steel's Cliff (right) and Illumination Rock
+(left) are parts of east and west rims. The south wall has been torn
+away, but the hard lava core remains in Crater Rock, the cone rising in
+center. Note the climbers ascending the "Hog-back" or ridge leading from
+Crater Rock up to the "bergschrund," a great crevasse which stretches
+across the crater at head of the glaciers. The ridge in foreground is
+Triangle Moraine. On its right is White River glacier; on left, the
+fan-shaped Zigzag glacier.]
+
+This cutting back into the mountain has greatly lessened the area of the
+upper snow-fields. The reservoirs feeding the glaciers, are therefore
+much smaller than of old, but, by way of compensation, present a
+series of most interesting ice formations on the steeper slopes. In this
+respect, Mount Hood is especially noteworthy among our Northwestern
+snow-peaks. While larger glaciers are found on other mountains, none are
+more typical. The glaciers of Hood especially repay study because of
+their wonderful variety of ice-falls, terraces, seracs, towers, castles,
+pinnacles and crevasses. Winter has fashioned a colossal architecture of
+wild forms.
+
+ Ye ice-falls! ye that from the mountain's brow
+ Adown enormous ravines slope amain,--
+ Torrents, methinks, that heard a mighty voice,
+ And stopped at once amid their maddest plunge!
+ Motionless torrents! silent cataracts!
+
+[Illustration: South side of Mount Hood, seen from crag on
+Tom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge, five miles from the snow-line. A thousand feet
+below is the hotel called "Government Camp," with the Barlow road, the
+first across the Cascades. On left are Zigzag and Sand canyons, cut by
+streams from Zigzag glacier above.]
+
+[Illustration: Crag on which above view was taken.]
+
+The visitor who begins his acquaintance with Mount Hood on the north
+side has, from Cloud Cap Inn, four interesting glaciers within a radius
+of a few miles. Immediately before the Inn, Eliot glacier displays its
+entire length of two miles, its snout being only a few rods away. West
+of this, Coe and Ladd glaciers divide the north face with the Eliot. All
+three have their source in neighboring reservoirs near the summit, which
+have been greatly reduced in area. This, with the resulting shrinkage
+in the glaciers, is shown by the high lateral moraines left as the width
+of the ice streams has lessened. On the east slope is a fine cliff
+glacier, the Newton Clark, separated from the Eliot by Cooper Spur, a
+long ridge that furnishes the only feasible north-side route for
+climbers to the summit.
+
+[Illustration: Part of the "bergschrund" above Crater Rock. A
+bergschrund is a crevasse of which the lower side lies much below its
+upper side. It is caused by a sharp fall in the slope, or by the ice at
+the head of a glacier pulling away from the packed snow above.]
+
+Climbing Cooper Spur is a tedious struggle up a long cinder slope, but
+it has its reward in fine views of the near-by glaciers and a wide
+outlook over the surrounding country. A tramp of three miles from the
+Inn covers the easier grade, and brings the climber to a height of eight
+thousand feet. A narrow, snow-covered chine now offers a windy path to
+the foot of the steeper slope (See p. 60). The climb ends with the
+conquest of a half-mile of vertical elevation over a grade that tests
+muscle, wind and nerve. This is real mountaineering, and as the novice
+clutches the rocks, or carefully follows in the steps cut by the guide,
+he recalls a command well adapted to such trying situations: "Prove all
+things; hold fast that which is good." But the danger is more apparent
+than real, and the goal is soon reached.
+
+[Illustration: Prof. Harry Fielding Reid and party exploring Zigzag
+glacier, south side of Mount Hood. Illumination Rock is seen beyond.]
+
+The south-side route, followed by the Barlow party of 1854, was long
+deemed the only practicable trail to the summit. Many years later,
+William A. Langille discovered the route up from Cooper Spur. The only
+accident charged against this path befell a stranger who was killed in
+trying to climb it without a guide. Its steepness is, indeed, an
+advantage, as it requires less time than the other route. Climbers
+frequently ascend by one trail and descend by the other, thus making the
+trip between Cloud Cap Inn and Government Camp in a day.
+
+[Illustration: Mazamas climbing the "Hog-back," above Crater Rock, and
+passing this rock on the descent.]
+
+The actual summit of Mount Hood is a narrow but fairly level platform, a
+quarter of a mile long, which is quickly seen to be part of the rim of
+the ancient crater. Below it, on the north, are the heads of three
+glaciers already mentioned, the Eliot, Coe and Ladd; and looking down
+upon them, the climber perceives that here the mountain has been so much
+cut away as to be less a slope than a series of precipices, with very
+limited benches which serve as gathering grounds of snow. (See pp. 55,
+67 and 70.) These shelves feed the lower ice-streams with a diet of
+avalanches that is year by year becoming less bountiful as this front
+becomes more steep. Soon, indeed, geologically speaking, the present
+summit, undermined by the ice, must fall, and the mountain take on a new
+aspect, with a lower, broader top. Thus while the beautiful verse which
+I have quoted under the view of Mount Hood from White Salmon (p. 56) is
+admirable poetry, its last line is very poor geology. This, however,
+need not deter any present-day climbers!
+
+On the south side of the summit ridge a vastly different scene is
+presented. Looking down over its easy slope, one recognizes even more
+clearly than from the north-side view that Mount Hood is merely a wreck
+of its former graceful cone, a torn and disintegrating remnant, with
+very modest pretensions to symmetry, after all, but still a fascinating
+exhibit of the work of such Gargantuan forces as hew and whittle such
+peaks.
+
+[Illustration: Portland Ski Club on south side of Mount Hood, above
+Government Camp.]
+
+The crater had a diameter of about half a mile. Its north rim remains in
+the ridge on which our climber stands. All the rest of its circumference
+has been torn away, but huge fragments of its wall are seen far below,
+on the right and left, in "cleavers" named respectively Illumination
+Rock and Steel's Cliff. One of these recalls several displays of red
+fire on the mountain by the Mazamas. The other great abutment was
+christened in honor of the first president of that organization.
+
+Apart from these ridges, the entire rim is missing; but below the
+spectator, at what must have been the center of its circle, towers a
+great cone of lava, harder than the andesitic rocks and the scoriæ which
+compose the bulk of the mountain. This is known as Crater Rock. It is
+the core of the crater, formed when the molten lava filling its neck
+cooled and hardened. Around it the softer mass has worn down to the
+general grade of the south slope, which extends five miles from just
+below the remaining north rim at the head of the glaciers to the
+neighborhood of Government Camp, far down on the Cascade plateau. The
+grade is much less than thirty degrees. Over the slope flow down two
+glaciers, the Zigzag on the west, and the White River glacier on the
+east, of Crater Rock.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Hood Lily.
+
+(_L. Washingtonianum_)]
+
+It is sometimes said that the south side of the old summit was blown
+away by a terrific explosion. That is improbable, in view of Crater
+Rock, which indicates a dormant volcano when the south side was
+destroyed. The mountain was doubtless rent by ice rather than by fire.
+The mass of ice and snow in and upon the crater broke apart the
+comparatively loose wall, and pushed its shattered tuffs and cinders far
+down the slopes. Forests were buried, old canyons were filled, and the
+whole southwest side of the mountain was covered with the fan-shaped
+outwash from the breach. Through this debris of the ancient crater the
+streams at the feet of the glaciers below are cutting vast ravines which
+can be seen from the heights above. (See illustrations, pp. 77-81.)
+
+[Illustration: Mazama party exploring White River glacier, Mount Hood.]
+
+The central situation of Mount Hood makes the view from its summit
+especially worth seeking. From the Pacific to the Blue Mountains, south
+almost to the California line, and north as far, it embraces an area
+equal to a great state, with four hundred miles of the undulating
+Cascade summits and a dozen calm and radiant snow-peaks. The Columbia
+winds almost at its foot, and a multitude of lakes, dammed by glacial
+moraines and lava dikes, nestle in its shadow. This view "covers more
+history," as Lyman points out, than that from any other of our peaks.
+About its base the Indians hunted, fished and warred. Across its flank
+rolled the great tide of Oregon immigration, in the days of the ox-team
+and settler's wagon. It has seen the building of two states. It now
+looks benignly down upon the prosperous agriculture and growing cities
+of the modern Columbia basin, and no doubt contemplates with serenity
+the time when its empire shall be one of the most populous as it is one
+of the most beautiful and fertile regions in America. No wonder the
+shapely mountain lifts its head with pride!
+
+[Illustration: Newton Clark glacier, east side of Mt. Hood, seen from
+Cooper Spur, with Mt. Jefferson fifty miles south.]
+
+Returning to the glaciers of the north side, we note that all three end
+at an altitude close to six thousand feet. None of them has cut a deep,
+broad bed for itself like the great radiating canyons which dissect the
+Rainier National Park and protect its glaciers down to a level averaging
+four thousand feet. Instead, these glaciers lie up on the side of Mount
+Hood, in shallow beds which they no longer fill; and are banked between
+double and even triple border moraines, showing successive advances and
+retreats of the glaciers. (See illustration, top of p. 59.) The larger
+moraines stand fifty to a hundred feet above the present ice-streams,
+thus indicating the former glacier levels. No vegetation appears on
+these desolate rock and gravel dikes. The retreat of the glaciers was
+therefore comparatively recent.
+
+[Illustration: Looking from Mount Jefferson, along the summits of the
+Cascades, to Mount Hood.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Shadow of Mount Hood, seen from Newton Clark glacier shortly before
+sunset. View shows two branches of East Fork of Hood River, fed by the
+glacier, and the canyon of the East Fork, turning north. Beyond it
+(left) are Tygh Hills and wheat fields of the Dufur country. On the
+right is Juniper Flat, with the Deschutes canyon far beyond.]
+
+[Illustration: Snout of Newton Clark glacier.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD
+
+Mount Hood and Hood River, seen from a point twenty miles north of the
+mountain.]
+
+Eliot glacier has been found by measurement near its end, to have a
+movement of about fifty feet a year. On the steeper slope above, it is
+doubtless much greater. All the three glaciers are heavily covered, for
+their last half mile, with rocks and dirt which they have freighted down
+from the cliffs above, or dug up from their own beds in transit. None of
+the lateral moraines extends more than two or three hundred yards below
+the snout of its glacier. Each glacier, at its end, drops its remnant of
+ice into a deep V-shaped ravine, in which, not far below, trees of good
+size are growing. Hence it would not seem that these north-side
+glaciers have ever extended much farther than they do at present. The
+ravine below Eliot glacier, however, half a mile from the snout, is said
+to show glacial markings on its rocky sides. It is evident, in any case,
+that the deep V cuttings now found below the glaciers are work of the
+streams. If these glaciers extended farther, it was at higher levels
+than their present stream channels. As the glaciers receded, their
+streams have cut the deep gorges in the soft conglomerates. Between
+Eliot and Coe glaciers are large snow-fields, ending much farther up
+than do the glaciers; and below these, too, the streams have trenched
+the slope. (See illustration, p. 57.)
+
+[Illustration: Lava Flume near Trout Lake, about thirty feet wide and
+forty feet high.]
+
+[Illustration: Y. M. C. A. party from North Yakima at Red Butte, an
+extinct volcano on north side of Mount Adams.]
+
+Between Coe and Ladd glaciers is a high rocky ridge known as Barrett
+Spur, from which, at nearly 8,000 feet, one may obtain glorious views of
+the peak above, the two glaciers sweeping down its steep face and the
+sea of ranges stretching westward. (See illustrations, pp. 69 and 75.)
+Barrett Spur may have been part of the original surface of the mountain,
+but is more likely the remnant of a secondary cone, ice and weathering
+having destroyed its conical shape. From its top, the climber looks over
+into the broad-bottomed canyon of Sandy River, fed by the large and
+small Sandy glaciers of the west slope. (See pp. 71 and 76.) This canyon
+and that of the Zigzag River, south of it, from Zigzag glacier, are
+"plainly glacier-sculptured," as Sylvester declares. The same is true of
+the canyon lying below the White River glacier, on the southeast slope.
+In journeying to Government Camp, one may see abundant evidence of the
+glacial origin of the Sandy and Zigzag canyons. The White River Canyon
+has been thoroughly explored and described by Prof. Reid.
+
+All three of these wide U-shaped canyons were once occupied by great
+glaciers, which left their record in the scorings upon the sides of the
+gorges; in the mesas of finely ground moraine which they spread over the
+bottoms and through which the modern rivers have cut deep ravines; in
+trees broken and buried by the glaciers in this drift; in the fossil ice
+lying beneath it, and in huge angular boulders left standing on the
+valley floors, several miles from the mountain.
+
+[Illustration: Ice Cave in lava beds near Trout Lake.]
+
+Sandy glacier extends three hundred feet farther down the slope than do
+the north-side glaciers, but the Zigzag and White River glaciers,
+flowing out of the crater, end a thousand feet higher. This is due not
+only to the smaller reservoirs which feed them and to their southern
+exposure, but also doubtless to the easier grade, which holds the ice
+longer on the slope. On the east side of the peak is a broad ice-stream,
+the Newton Clark glacier, which also ends at a high altitude, dropping
+its ice over a cliff into deep ravines at the head of East Fork of Hood
+River. This glacier, well seen from Cooper Spur, completes the circuit
+of the mountain. (See pp. 83 and 84.)
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams, elevation 12,307 feet.]
+
+Sylvester suggests that Mount Hood may not be extinct but sleeping. For
+this, however, there is little more evidence that may be discovered on
+other Northwestern peaks. About Crater Rock, steam jets are found, gas
+escapes, and the rocks are warm in many places. "Fumaroles" exist, where
+the residuary heat causes openings in the snow bed. Sylvester reports
+dense smoke and steam issuing from Crater Rock by day and a brilliant
+illumination there at night, in August, 1907. But volcanoes sometimes
+contradict prophecy, and no further intimations of trouble having since
+been offered, this display may be deemed the last gasp of a dying
+monster rather than an awakening toward new life.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Telephoto view of Mount Adams, from the northeast side of Mount St.
+Helens, at elevation of 7,000 feet, overlooking the densely timbered
+ranges of the Cascades.]
+
+
+MOUNT ADAMS.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams from Trout Creek, at Guler, near Trout Lake;
+distance twelve miles.]
+
+[Illustration: Climbers on South Butte, the hard lava neck of a crater
+on south slope, left by weathering of the softer materials of its cone.
+Elevation, 7,800 feet. The usual route to summit leads up the talus on
+right.]
+
+Going up the White Salmon Valley toward Mount Adams, the visitor quickly
+realizes that he is in a different geological district from that around
+Mount Hood. The Oregon peak is mainly a pile of volcanic rocks and
+cinders ejected from its crater. Little hard basalt is found, and in all
+its circumference I know of only one large surface area of new lava.
+This is a few miles north of Cloud Cap, and so recent that no trees
+grow on it. But north of the Columbia, one meets evidences of
+comparatively recent lava sheets in many parts of the valley. Some
+obviously have no connection with Mount Adams; they flowed out of
+fissures on the ridges. But these beds of volcanic rock become more
+apparent, and are less covered with soil, as we approach the mountain,
+until, long before timber line is reached, dikes and streams of basalt,
+as yet hardly beginning to disintegrate, are found on all sides of the
+peak.
+
+[Illustration: Dawn on Mount Adams, telephotographed from Guler, at 4 a.
+m., showing the three summit peaks, of which the middle one is the
+highest. The route of the climbers is up the south slope, seen on
+right.]
+
+[Illustration: Foraging in the snow. The Mount Adams country supports
+hundreds of large flocks of sheep.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER
+
+Steel's Cliff, southeast side of Mount Hood. In the distance is seen
+Juniper Flat, in eastern Oregon.]
+
+The form and slope of Mount Adams tell of an age far greater than Mount
+Hood's, but its story is not, like that of Hood, the legible record of a
+simple volcanic cone. It wholly lacks the symmetry of such a pile.
+Viewed from a distance, it sits very majestically upon the summit of one
+of the eastern ranges of the Cascades. As we approach, however, it is
+seen to have little of the conical shape of Hood, still less that of
+graceful St. Helens, which is young and as yet practically unbroken. Its
+summit has been much worn down by ice or perhaps by explosions. Some
+of its sides are deeply indented, and all are vastly irregular in angle
+and markings--here a face now too steeply cut to hold a glacier, but
+showing old glacial scorings far down its slope; there another terraced
+and ribbed with waves and dikes of lava. The mountain is a long ridge
+rather than a round peak, and close inspection shows it to be a
+composite of several great cones, leaning one upon another,--the product
+of many craters acting in successive ages. On its ancient, scarred
+slopes, a hundred modern vents have added to the ruggedness and interest
+of the peak. Many of these blowholes built parasitic cones, from which
+the snows of later centuries have eroded the loose external mass,
+leaving only the hard lava cores upstanding like obelisks. Other vents
+belched out vast sheets of rock that will require a century more of
+weathering to make hospitable even to the sub-alpine trees most humble
+in their demands for soil.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, G. M. WEISTER.
+
+Ice Castle and great Crevasse, near the head of Eliot Glacier, Mt. Hood.
+
+
+ "Touched by a light that hath no name,
+ A glory never sung,
+ Aloft on sky and mountain wall
+ Are God's great pictures hung."--Whittier.]
+
+[Illustration: Mazamas climbing a 40° stairway of shattered basalt,
+north side of Mount Adams.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams from one of the many lakes on its southeast
+slope. On ridge above, near the end of Mazama glacier, a hotel is to be
+erected.]
+
+Mount Adams therefore presents a greater variety of history, a more
+complex and fascinating problem for the student to unravel, than any of
+its neighbors. This interest extends to the district about it, a
+country of new lava flows covering much of the older surface. The same
+conditions mark the region surrounding the newer peak, St. Helens,
+thirty miles west. In each district, sheets of molten rock have been
+poured across an ancient and heavily forested land. Thus as we travel up
+the rich valleys leading from the Columbia to either peak, we meet
+everywhere the phenomena of vulcanism.
+
+[Illustration: Climbers ascending from South Peak to Middle Peak on
+Mount Adams, with the "bergschrund" above Klickitat glacier on right.
+This central dome is about 500 feet higher than South Peak.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from Happy Valley, south side.
+Elevation about 7,000 feet. Mazama glacier is on right.]
+
+The lava sheet flowing around or over a standing or fallen tree took a
+perfect impression of its trunk and bark. Thousands of these old tree
+casts are found near both Adams and St. Helens. Where the lava reached a
+watercourse, it flowed down in a deeper stream, a river of liquid rock.
+Lava is a poor conductor of heat; hence the stream cooled more quickly
+on the surface than below. Soon a crust was formed, like the ice over a
+creek in winter. Under it the lava flowed on and out, as the flood
+stopped, leaving a gallery or flume. Later flows filled the great drain
+again and again, adding new strata to its roof, floor and sides, and
+lessening its bore. Long after the outflows ceased, weathering by heat
+and frost broke openings here and there. Many of the flumes were choked
+with drift. But others, in the newer lava beds, may be explored for
+miles. It was from the lava caves of northern California that the Modoc
+Indians waged their famous war in the Seventies.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams, from Snow-Plow Mountain, three miles
+southeast of the snow line; elevation 5,070 feet, overlooking the broad
+"park" country west of Hellroaring Canyon.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, S. C. SMITH
+
+Wind-whittled ice near the summit of Mount Adams.]
+
+The disintegration of the lava galleries in the Mount Adams field has of
+course produced caves of all sorts and sizes. Where one of these is
+closed at one end with debris, so that the summer air cannot circulate
+to displace the heavier cold remaining from winter, the cave, if it has
+a water supply, becomes an ice factory. The Trout Lake district has
+several interesting examples of such _glacieres_, as they have been
+named, where one may take refuge from July or August heat above ground,
+and, forty feet below, in a cave well protected from sun and summer
+breeze, find great masses of ice, with more perhaps still forming as
+water filters in from a surface lake or an underground spring. The
+Columbia River towns as far away as Portland and The Dalles formerly
+obtained ice from the Trout Lake caves, but at present they supply only
+some near-by farmers.
+
+[Illustration: Mazama glacier, at head of Hellroaring Canyon. Upper view
+shows floor of canyon, a mile below the glacier, with the "Ridge of
+Wonders" on right. Lower view is from ridge west of the canyon, near end
+of Mazama glacier, elevation nearly 7,000 feet. Note great lateral
+moraine which the glacier has built on left.]
+
+Mount Adams is ascended without difficulty by either its north or south
+slope. On the east and west faces, the cliffs and ice cascades appall
+even the expert alpinist. As yet, so far as I can learn, no ascents have
+been made over these slopes. The southern route is the more popular one.
+It leads by well-marked trails up from Guler or Glenwood, over a
+succession of terraces clad in fine, open forest; ascends McDonald
+Ridge, amid increasing barriers of lava; passes South Butte, a decaying
+pillar of red silhouetted against the black rocks and white snow-fields;
+crosses many a caldron of twisted and broken basalt,--"Devil's Half
+Acres" that once were the hot, vomiting mouths of drains from the fiery
+heart of the peak; scales a giants' stairway tilted to forty degrees,
+overlooking the west branch of Mazama glacier on one side and a small
+unnamed glacier on the other; and at last gains the broad shoulder which
+projects far on the south slope. (See illustrations, pp. 89 and 93.)
+
+[Illustration: Nearing the summit, south side.]
+
+[Illustration: Upper Ice Cascade of Klickitat glacier.]
+
+Here, from a height of nine thousand feet, we look down on the low, wide
+reservoir of Mazama glacier on the east, and up to the ice-falls above
+Klickitat glacier on the higher slopes beyond. The great platform on
+which we stand was built up by a crater, three thousand feet below the
+summit. The climb to it has disclosed the fact that the mountain is
+composed mostly of lava. Some of the ravine cuttings have shown lapilli
+and cinders, but these are rarer than on the other Northwestern peaks.
+The harder structure has resisted the erosion which is cutting so deeply
+into the lower slopes of Hood. On Mount Adams, not only do the glaciers,
+with one or two notable exceptions, lie up on the general surface of the
+mountain, banked by their moraines; but their streams have cut few deep
+ravines.
+
+[Illustration: An Upland "Park," west of Hellroaring Canyon.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams, from the Ridge of Wonders, showing the great
+amphitheater or "cirque" of Klickitat glacier, fed by avalanches from
+the summit plateau. This is the most important example of glacial
+sculpture on the mountain. Beyond, on the right, is seen the head of
+Rusk glacier, while on the left is Mazama glacier. Note the stunted
+sub-alpine trees scattered thinly over this ridge, even up to an
+altitude of 7,000 feet.]
+
+[Illustration: Storm on Klickitat Glacier, seen from the Ridge of
+Wonders.]
+
+From this point, the route becomes steeper, but is still over talus,
+until the first of the three summit elevations, known as South Peak, is
+reached. This is only five hundred feet below the actual summit, Middle
+Peak, which is gained by a short, hard pull, generally over snow.
+(See p. 94.) The north-side route is up a long, sharp ridge between Lava
+and Adams glaciers (p. 104). Like the other path, its grade is at first
+easy; but its last half mile of elevation is achieved over a slope even
+steeper, and ending in a longer climb over the snow. Neither route,
+however, offers so hard a finish as that which ends the Mount Hood
+climb. From the timber-line on either side, the ascent requires six or
+seven hours.
+
+[Illustration: Snow cornice above the bergschrund at head of Klickitat
+glacier, with another part of the same crevasse.]
+
+The summit ridge is nearly a mile long and two-thirds as wide. It is the
+gathering ground of the snows that feed Klickitat, Lyman, Adams and
+White Salmon glaciers. (See map, p. 87.) Mazama, Rusk, Lava, Pinnacle
+and Avalanche glaciers lie beneath cliffs too steep to carry
+ice-streams. Their income is mainly collected from the slopes, and if
+they receive snow from the broad summit at all, it is chiefly in the
+avalanches of early summer. Nearly all the glaciers, however, are thus
+fed in part, the steep east and west faces making Mount Adams famous for
+its avalanches.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams, seen from the northeast, with the Lyman
+glaciers in center, Rusk glacier on extreme left, and Lava glacier,
+right. The ridge beyond Lava glacier is the north-side route to the
+summit. The Lyman glaciers, like Adams glacier on the northwest side,
+are noteworthy for their cascades of ice.]
+
+From the summit on either side, the climber may look down sheer for half
+a mile to the reservoirs and great ice cascades of the glaciers below.
+It is seen that with the exception of the Rusk and Klickitat, which
+are deeply embedded in canyons, the glaciers spread out, fan-like, on
+the lower slopes, and are held up by their moraines. Most of them end at
+elevations considerably above six thousand five hundred feet. The
+difference in this respect between Adams and Hood is due, no doubt, to
+lighter rainfall.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS
+
+Mount Adams from Sunnyside, Washington, with irrigation "ditch" in
+foreground.]
+
+[Illustration: Crevasse in Lava glacier, north side of Mount Adams.]
+
+Of the two glaciers just mentioned the Klickitat is the larger and more
+typical. The Rusk, however, is of interest because it flows, greatly
+crevassed, down a narrow flume or couloir on the east slope. Its bed,
+Reid suggests, may have been the channel of "a former lava flow, which,
+hardening on the surface, allowed the liquid lava inside to flow out;
+and later the top broke in." The Klickitat glacier lies in a much larger
+canyon, which it has evidently cut for itself. This is one of the most
+characteristic glacial amphitheaters in America, resembling, though on a
+smaller scale, the vast Carbon glacier _cirque_ which is the crowning
+glory of the Rainier National Park. The Klickitat basin is a mile wide.
+Into it two steep ice-streams cascade from the summit, and avalanches
+fall from a cliff which rises two thousand feet between them. (See pp.
+98 and 99.)
+
+[Illustration: North Peak of Mount Adams, with The Mountaineers
+beginning their ascent, in 1911. Their route led up the ridge seen here,
+which divides Lava glacier, on the left, from Adams glacier, on extreme
+right.]
+
+The glacier is more than two miles long. It ends at an elevation of less
+than six thousand feet, covered with debris from a large medial moraine
+formed by the junction of the two tributary glaciers. Like the other
+Mount Adams glaciers, and indeed nearly all glaciers in the northern
+hemisphere, it is shrinking, and has built several moraines on each
+side. These extend half a mile below its present snout, and the inner
+moraines are underlaid with ice, showing the retreat has been recent.
+
+South of the Klickitat glacier, a part of the original surface of the
+peak remains in the great Ridge of Wonders. Rising a thousand feet above
+the floor of Hellroaring Canyon, which was formerly occupied by Mazama
+glacier, now withdrawn to the slope above, this is the finest
+observation point on the mountain. "The wonderful views of the eastern
+precipices and glaciers," says Reid, "the numerous dikes, the well
+preserved parasitic cone of Little Mount Adams, and the curious forms of
+volcanic bombs scattered over its surface entirely justify the name Mr.
+Rusk has given to this ridge."
+
+[Illustration: Snow Bridge over Killing Creek, north of Mount Adams.]
+
+Adams glacier, upon the northwest slope, with a length of three miles,
+is the largest on the mountain. This and the two beautiful ice streams
+on the northeast, named after Prof. W. D. Lyman, are notable for their
+ice-falls, half-mile drops of tumbling, frozen rivers.
+
+The naming of the mountain was a result of the movement started by Hall
+J. Kelley, the Oregon enthusiast, in 1839. The northwestern snow-peaks,
+so far as shown in maps of the period, bore the names given by
+Vancouver as part of his annexation for George III. The utility, beauty
+and historic fitness of the significant Indian place names did not occur
+to a generation busy in ousting the Indian from his land; but our
+grandfathers remembered George III. Kelley and other patriotic men of
+the time proposed to call the Cascades the "Presidents' Range," and to
+christen the several snow-peaks for individual ex-presidents of the
+United States. But the second quarter of the last century knew little
+about Oregon, and cared less. The well-meant but premature effort
+failed, and the only names of the presidents which have stuck are Adams
+and Jefferson. Lewis and Clark mistook Mount Adams for St. Helens, and
+estimated it "perhaps the highest pinnacle in America." The Geological
+Survey has found its height to be 12,307 feet. Mount Adams was first
+climbed in 1854 by a party in which were Col. B. F. Shaw, Glenn Aiken
+and Edward J. Allen.
+
+[Illustration: North-side Cleaver, with Lava glacier on left. This sharp
+spine was climbed by The Mountaineers and the North Yakima Y. M. C. A.
+party in 1911.]
+
+
+MOUNT ST. HELENS.
+
+The world was indebted for its first knowledge of Mount St. Helens to
+Vancouver. Its name is one of the batch which he fastened in 1792 upon
+our Northwestern landmarks. These honored a variety of persons, ranging
+from Lord St. Helens, the diplomat, and pudgy Peter Rainier, of the
+British Admiralty, down to members of the explorer's crew.
+
+[Illustration: Looking across Adams glacier, northwest side of Mount
+Adams, from ridge shown above.]
+
+[Illustration: "The Mountain that Was 'God'," the great peak which the
+Indians reverenced and named "Tacoma," seen above the clouds of a rainy
+day, from the summit of Mount Adams, distant forty miles.
+
+ "This," said a well-known lecturer, as the picture was
+ thrown upon his screen, "is the scene the angels look
+ down upon!"]
+
+The youngest of the Cascade snow-peaks, St. Helens is also the most
+symmetrical in its form, and to many of its admirers the most beautiful.
+Unlike Hood and Adams, it does not stand upon the narrow summit of one
+of the Cascade ranges, but rises west of the main ridges of that
+system from valley levels about one thousand feet above the sea.
+Surrounded by comparatively low ridges, it thus presents its perfect and
+impressive cone for almost its entire height of ten thousand feet.
+
+[Illustration: Northwest slope of Mount Adams, with Adams glacier, three
+miles long, the largest on the mountain. It has an ice-fall of two
+thousand feet. The low-lying reservoir of Pinnacle glacier is on extreme
+right, and the head of Lava glacier on left.]
+
+The mountain is set well back from the main traveled roads, in the great
+forest of southwestern Washington. It is the center of a fine lake and
+river district which attracts sportsmen as well as mountain climbers. A
+large company visiting it must carry in supplies and camp equipment, but
+small parties may find accommodation at Spirit Lake on the north, and
+Peterson's ranch on Lewis River, south of the peak. The first is four,
+the second is eight, miles from the snow line. Visitors from Portland,
+Tacoma or Seattle, bound for the north side, leave the railway at Castle
+Rock, whence a good automobile road (forty-eight miles) leads to the
+south side of Spirit Lake. Peterson's may be reached by road from
+Woodland (forty-five miles) or from Yacolt (thirty miles). Well-marked
+trails lead from either base to camping grounds at timber line. The
+mountain is climbed by a long, easy slope on the south, or by a much
+steeper path on the north.
+
+Like Mount Adams, St. Helens is largely built of lava, but the outflows
+have been more recent here than upon or near the greater peak. The
+volcano was in eruption several times between 1830 and 1845. The sky at
+Vancouver was often darkened, and ashes were carried as far as The
+Dalles. To these disturbances, probably, are due the great outflows of
+new lava covering the south and west sides of the mountain, and much of
+the country between it and the North Fork of Lewis River. The molten
+stream flowed westward to Goat Mountain and the "Buttes," of which it
+made islands; threw a dike across a watercourse and created Lake
+Merrill; and turning southward, filled valleys and overwhelmed good
+forest with sheets of basalt. Upon the slope just north of Peterson's, a
+great synclinal thus buried presents one of the latest pages in the
+volcanic history of the Columbia basin.
+
+[Illustration: Mount Adams from the southwest, with White Salmon glacier
+(left) and Avalanche glacier (right) flowing from a common source, the
+cleft between North and Middle Peaks. The latter, however, derives most
+of its support from slopes farther to right. Note the huge terminal
+moraines built by these glaciers in their retreat. Pinnacle glacier is
+on extreme left.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, elevation 10,000 feet.]
+
+Many hours may be spent with interest upon this lava bed. It is an area
+of the wildest violence, cast in stone. Swift, ropy streams, cascades,
+whirling eddies, all have been caught in their course. "Devil's Punch
+Bowl," "Hell's Kitchen," "Satan's Stairway" are suggestive phrases of
+local description. The underground galleries here are well worth
+visiting. Tree tunnels and wells abound. Most important of all, the
+struggle seen everywhere of the forest to gain a foothold on this iron
+surface illustrates Nature's method of hiding so vast and terrible a
+callus upon her face. It is evident that the healing of the wound began
+as soon as the lava cooled, and that, while still incomplete, it is
+unceasingly prosecuted. (See p. 111.)
+
+[Illustration: Scenes in the canyon of the North Fork of Lewis River,
+fed by the glaciers of Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, B. A. GIFFORD
+
+Columbia River and Mount Adams, seen from Hood River, Oregon.
+
+ "And forests ranged like armies, round and round
+ At feet of mountains of eternal snow;
+ And valleys all alive with happy sound,--
+ The song of birds; swift streams' delicious flow;
+ The mystic hum of million things that grow."--Helen Hunt Jackson.]
+
+The first volcanic dust from the uneasy crater of St. Helens had no
+sooner lodged in some cleft opened by the contraction of cooling than a
+spore or seed carried by the wind or dropped by a bird made a start
+toward vegetation. Failing moisture, and checked by lack of soil, the
+lichen or grass or tiny shrub quickly yielded its feeble existence in
+preparation for its successor. The procession of rain and sun encouraged
+other futile efforts to find rootage. Each of these growths
+lengthened by its decay the life of the next. With winter came frost,
+scaling flakes from the hard surface, or penetrating the joints and
+opening fissures in the basalt. Further refuge was thus made ready for
+the dust and seeds and moisture of another season. The moss and plants
+were promoters as well as beneficiaries of this disintegration. Their
+smallest rootlets found the water in the heart of the rocks, and growing
+strong upon it, shattered their benefactors.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER PHOTO CO.
+
+Southwest side of Mount Adams, reflected in Trout Lake, twelve miles
+south of the mountain.]
+
+[Illustration: Scenes on great lava field south of Mount St. Helens. The
+lodgepole pine thicket above shows struggle of forest to gain a foothold
+on the rich soil slowly forming over new volcanic rock. The peak itself,
+with stunted forest at its base, is seen next; and below, one of many
+"tree tunnels," formed when the lava flowed over or around a tree,
+taking a perfect cast of its bark.]
+
+Soon more ambitious enterprises were undertaken. Huckleberry bushes,
+fearless even of so unfriendly a surface, started from every depression
+among the rocks. The first small trees appeared. Weakling pines, dwarf
+firs and alders, shot up for a few feet of hurried growth in the spring
+moisture, taking the unlikely chance of surviving the later drought.
+Here and there a seedling outlasted the long, dry summer, and began to
+be a real tree. Quickly exhausting its little handful of new earth, the
+daring upstart must have perished had not the melting snows brought
+help. They filled the hollows with wash from the higher slopes. The
+treelets found that their day had come, and seizing upon these rich but
+shallow soil beds, soon covered them with thickets of spindling
+lodgepole pines and deciduous brush. Such pygmy forests are at length
+common upon this great field of torn and decaying rock, and all are
+making their contributions of humus year by year to the support of
+future tree giants. These will rise by survival of the fittest as the
+forest floor deepens and spreads.
+
+[Illustration: Lava Flume south of Mount St. Helens, a tunnel several
+miles in length, about twenty feet high and fifteen feet wide.]
+
+[Illustration: Entrance to Lava Cave shown above. Note strata in roof,
+showing successive lava flows; also ferns growing from roof.]
+
+[Illustration: Telephotograph of Mount St. Helens, from the lower part
+of Portland, with the summit peaks of Mount Rainier-Tacoma in distance
+on left, and the Willamette River in foreground.]
+
+St. Helens, although much visited, has not yet been officially surveyed
+or mapped. Its glaciers are not named, nor has the number of true
+ice-streams been determined. Those on the south and southwest are
+insignificant. Elsewhere, the glaciers are short and broad, and with one
+exception, occupy shallow beds. On the southeast, there is a remarkable
+cleft, shown on page 115, which is doubtless due to volcanic causes
+rather than erosion, and from which the largest glacier issues. Another
+typical glacier, distinguished by the finest crevasses and ice-falls on
+the peak, tumbles down a steep, shallow depression on the north slope,
+west of the battered parasitic cone of "Black Butte." West of this
+glacier, in turn, ridges known as the "Lizard" and the "Boot" mark the
+customary north-side path to the summit. (See p. 118.) Beyond these
+landmarks, on the west side of the peak, a third considerable glacier
+feeds South Toutle River. The ravines cut by this stream will repay a
+visit. (See p. 116.)
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, JAS. WAGGENER, JR.
+
+Mount St. Helens, from Chelatchie Prairie on Lewis River, distance
+twenty miles. Shows a typical farm clearing in the forest.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount St. Helens, seen from Twin Buttes, twenty miles
+away, across the Cascades. View shows the remarkable cleft or canyon on
+the southeast face of the peak.]
+
+The slopes not covered with new lava sheets and dikes exhibit, below the
+snow-line, countless bombs hurled up from the crater, with great fields
+of pumice embedding huge angular rocks that tell a story not written on
+our other peaks. These hard boulders, curiously different from the soft
+materials in which they lie, were fragments of the tertiary platform on
+which the cone was erected. Torn off by the volcano, as it enlarged its
+bore, they were shot out without melting or change in substance. On
+every hand is proof that this now peaceful snow-mountain, which
+resembles nothing else so much as a well-filled saucer of ice cream, had
+a hot temper in its youth, and has passed some bad days even since the
+coming of the white man.
+
+The mountain was first climbed in August, 1853, by a party which
+included the same T. J. Dryer who, a year later, took part in the first
+ascent of Mount Hood. In a letter to _The Oregonian_ he said the party
+consisted of "Messrs. Wilson, Smith, Drew and myself." They ascended the
+south side. The other slopes were long thought too steep to climb, but
+in 1893 Fred G. Plummer, of Tacoma, now Geographer of the United States
+Forest Service, ascended the north side. His party included Leschi, a
+Klickitat Indian, probably the first of his superstitious race to scale
+a snow-peak. The climbers found evidence of recent activity in two
+craters on the north slope, and photographed a curious "diagonal
+moraine," as regular in shape as a railway embankment, which connected
+the border moraines of a small glacier. The north side has since seen
+frequent ascents.
+
+[Illustration: Canyons of South Toutle River, west side of St. Helens.
+These vast trenches in the soft pumice show by their V shape that they
+have been cut by streams from the glaciers above, rather than by the
+glaciers themselves, which, on this young peak, have probably never had
+a much greater extension.]
+
+The Mazamas, who had climbed St. Helens from the south in 1898, again
+ascended it in 1908, climbing by the Lizard and Boot. This outing
+furnished the most stirring chapter in the annals of American
+mountaineering.
+
+[Illustration: Lower Toutle Canyon, seen on left above. Note shattered
+volcanic bomb.]
+
+[Illustration: Northeast side of Mount St. Helens, from elevation of
+6,000 feet, with Black Butte on the right.]
+
+[Illustration: The Mazamas on summit of St. Helens shortly before
+sunset. The rocks showing above the snow are parts of the rim of the
+extinct crater. Mount Adams is seen, thirty-five miles away, on the
+right, while Rainier-Tacoma is forty-five miles north. Photograph taken
+at 7:15 p. m. The party did not get back to their camp till long after
+midnight.]
+
+The north-side route proved unexpectedly hard. After an all-day climb,
+the party reached the summit only at seven o'clock. The descent after
+nightfall required seven hours. The risk was great. Over the collar of
+ice near the summit, at a grade of more than sixty degrees, the
+twenty-five men and women slowly crept in steps cut by the leaders, and
+clutching a single fifty-foot rope. Later came the bombardment of loose
+rocks, as the party scattered down the slope. I quote from an account by
+Frank B. Riley, secretary of the club, who was one of the leaders:
+
+ The safety of the entire party was in the keeping of
+ each member. One touch of hysteria, one slip of the
+ foot, one instant's loss of self-control, would have
+ precipitated the line, like a row of bricks, on the
+ long plunge down the ice cliff. Eight times the party
+ stood poised on its scanty foothold while the rope was
+ lowered. When, after an hour and a half, its last
+ member stepped in safety upon the rocks, there yet lay
+ before it five hours of work ere the little red eyes
+ below should widen into welcoming campfires.
+
+ Over great ridges, down into vast snowfields, for
+ hours they plunged and slid, while scouts ahead
+ shouted back warning of the crevasses. On, out of the
+ icy clutch of the silent mountain, they plodded. And
+ then, at last, the timber, and the fires and the hot
+ drinks and the warm blankets and the springy hemlock
+ boughs!
+
+[Illustration: North side of St. Helens in winter, seen from Coldwater
+Ridge, overlooking Spirit Lake. Shows the long ridge called "the
+Lizard," because of its shape, with "the Boot" above it. On the
+northeast slope is "Black Butte," probably a secondary crater.]
+
+[Illustration: St. Helens, north side, seen from one mile below snow
+line. Note the slight progress made by the forest upon the scant soil of
+the pumice ridges; also, how greatly the angle of the sides, as viewed
+here at the foot of the peak, differs from that shown in Dr. Lauman's
+fine picture taken on Coldwater Ridge, five miles north. Both show the
+mountain from the same direction, but the near view gives no true idea
+of its steepness. Black Butte is on the left.]
+
+[Illustration: Glacier scenes, north side of Mount St. Helens, east of
+the "Lizard."]
+
+Even this was not the most noteworthy adventure of the outing. One
+evening, while the Mazamas gathered about their campfire at Spirit Lake,
+a haggard man dragged himself out of the forest, and told of an injured
+comrade lying helpless on the other side of the peak. The messenger and
+two companions--Swedish loggers, all three--had crossed the mountain the
+morning before. After they gained the summit and began the descent, a
+plunging rock had struck one of the men, breaking his leg. His friends
+had dragged him down to the first timber, and while one kept watch, the
+other had encircled the mountain, in search of aid from the Mazamas.
+
+Immediately a relief party of seven strong men, led by C. E. Forsyth of
+Castle Rock, Washington, started back over the trailless route by which
+the messenger had come. All night they scaled ridges, climbed into and
+out of canyons, waded icy streams. Before dawn they reached the wounded
+laborer. Mr. Riley says:
+
+ It was impossible to carry the man back through the
+ wild country around the peak. Below, the first cabin
+ on the Lewis River lay beyond a moat of forbidding
+ canyons. Above slanted the smooth slopes of St.
+ Helens. Placing the injured man upon a litter of
+ canvas and alpine stocks, they began the ascent of the
+ mountain with their burden. The day dawned and grew
+ old, and still these men crawled upward in frightful,
+ body-breaking struggle. Twelve hours passed, and they
+ had no food and no sleep, save as they fell
+ unconscious downward in the snow, as they did many
+ times, from fatigue and lack of nourishment. At four
+ o'clock, Anderson was again on the summit. Then,
+ without rest, came the descent to the north. Down
+ precipitous cliffs of ice they lowered him, as
+ tenderly as might be; down snow-slopes seared with
+ crevasses, shielding him from the falling rocks; over
+ ridges of ragged lava, until in the deepening darkness
+ of the second night they found themselves again at
+ timber. But in the net-work of canyons they had
+ selected the wrong one, and were lost. Here, at three
+ o'clock, they were found by a second relief party, and
+ guided over a painful five-mile journey home.
+
+[Illustration: Finest of the St. Helens glaciers, north side, with Black
+Butte on left. It is proposed to call this "Forsyth glacier," in honor
+of C. E. Forsyth, leader in a memorable rescue.]
+
+It was day when camp was reached. In an improvised hospital, a young
+surgeon, aided by a trained nurse, both Mazamas, quickly set the broken
+bones. Then they sent their patient comfortably away to the railroad and
+a Portland hospital. Before the wagon started, Anderson, who had uttered
+no groan in his two days of agony, struggled to a sitting posture, and
+searched the faces of all in the crowd about him.
+
+"Ay don't want ever to forget how you look," he said simply; "you who
+have done all this yust for me."
+
+It is fitting that such an event should be commemorated. With the
+approval of Mr. Riley and other Mazamas who were present at the time, I
+would propose that the north-side glacier already described, the most
+beautiful of the St. Helens ice-streams, be named "Forsyth glacier," in
+honor of the leader of this heroic rescue.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS
+
+Road among the Douglas Firs.]
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Ships loading lumber at one of Portland's large mills.]
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+THE FORESTS
+
+By HAROLD DOUGLAS LANGILLE
+
+ As the lowlander cannot be said to have truly seen the
+ element of water at all, so even in his richest parks
+ and avenues he cannot be said to have truly seen
+ trees. For the resources of trees are not developed
+ until they have difficulty to contend with; neither
+ their tenderness of brotherly love and harmony, till
+ they are forced to choose their ways of life where
+ there is contracted room. The various action of trees,
+ rooting themselves in inhospitable rocks, stooping to
+ look into ravines, hiding from the search of glacial
+ winds, reaching forth to the rays of rare sunshine,
+ crowding down together to drink at sweetest streams,
+ climbing hand in hand the difficult slopes, gliding in
+ grave procession over the heavenward ridges--nothing
+ of this can be conceived among the unvexed and
+ unvaried felicities of the lowland forest.--_Ruskin:
+ "Modern Painters."_
+
+
+[Illustration: Outposts of the Forest. Storm-swept White-bark Pines on
+Mount Hood.]
+
+STAND upon the icy summit of any one of the Columbia's snow-peaks, and
+look north or west or south across the expanse of blue-green mountains
+and valleys reaching to the sea; your eyes will rest upon the greatest
+forest the temperate zone has produced within the knowledge of man. Save
+where axe and fire have turned woodland into field or ghostly "burn,"
+the mantle is spread. Along the broad crests of the Cascades, down the
+long spurs that lead to the valleys, and across the Coast Range, lies a
+wealth of timber equaled in no other region. The outposts of this great
+army of trees will meet you far below.
+
+[Illustration: Alpine Hemlocks at the timber-line on Mt. Adams. Mt. Hood
+in distance.]
+
+Rimming about your peak, braving winds and the snows that drift in the
+lee of old moraines, and struggling to break through the timber-line,
+six thousand feet above the sea, somber mountain hemlocks (_Tsuga
+mertensiana_) and lighter white-bark pines (_Pinus albicaulis_) form the
+thin vanguard of the forest. They meet the glaciers. They border the
+snow-fields. They hide beneath their stunted, twisted forms the first
+deep gashes carved in the mountain slopes by eroding streams. Valiant
+protectors of less sturdy trees and plants, their whitened weather-sides
+bear witness to a fierce struggle for life on the bleak shoulders of the
+peaks.
+
+[Illustration: Mazama Party resting among the sub-alpine firs in a
+flower-carpeted "park" at the foot of Mount St. Helens]
+
+Make your way, as the streamlets do, down to the alpine glades, on the
+high plateaus, where anemone, erythronium and calochortus push their
+buds through lingering snow-crusts. The scattered trees gather in their
+first groups. Just within their shelter pause for a moment. Vague
+distance is narrowed to a diminutive circle. The mystery of vastness
+passes. Sharp indeed is the division between storm-swept barren and
+forest shelter.
+
+[Illustration: A Lowland Ravine. Cedars, Vine Maples, Devil's Club and
+Ferns, near Mount St. Helens.]
+
+Here ravines, decked with heather, hold streams from the
+snowdrifts--streams that hunt the steepest descents, and glory in their
+leaps from rock to rock and from cliff to pool. If it be the spring-time
+of the mountains--late July--the mossy rills will be half concealed
+beneath fragrant white azaleas that nod in the breezes blowing up with
+the ascending sun and down with the turn of day. Trailing over the
+rocks, or banked in the shelter of larger trees, creeping juniper
+(_Juniperus communis_), least of our evergreens, stays the drifting
+sands against the drive of winds or the wash of melting snows.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, KISER
+
+The "Noble" Fir.]
+
+Along the streams and on sunny slopes and benches are the homes of the
+pointed firs. Seeking protection from the storm, the spire-like trees
+cluster in tiny groves, among which, like little bays of a lake, the
+grassy flowered meadows run in and out, sun-lit, and sweet with rivulets
+from the snows above. If you do not know these upland "parks," there is
+rare pleasure awaiting you. A hundred mountain blossoms work figures of
+white and red and orange and blue in the soft tapestry of green. In
+such glades the hush is deep. Only the voice of a waterfall comes up
+from the canyon, or the whistle of a marmot, the call of the
+white-winged crows and the drone of insects break the stillness.
+
+[Illustration: Dense Hemlock Forest, lower west slope of Mount Hood.]
+
+[Illustration: Mount Hood from Ghost-tree Ridge. Whitened trunks of
+trees killed by forest fires.]
+
+[Illustration: An Island of Color in the Forest. Rhododendrons and Squaw
+Grass on the west slope of Mount Hood.
+
+ "The common growth of mother-earth
+ Suffices me,--her tears, her mirth,
+ Her humblest mirth and tears."--Wordsworth.]
+
+The outer rank of hemlock and fir droops its branches to the ground to
+break the tempest's attack. Within, silver or lovely fir (_Abies
+amabilis_) mingles with hardier forms. Its gray, mottled trunks are
+flecked with the yellow-green of lichen or festooned with wisps
+of moss down to the level of the big snows. And here, a vertical
+mile above the sea, you meet the daring western hemlock (_Tsuga
+heterophylla_), which braves the gale of ocean and mountain alike,
+indifferent to all but fire. It is of gentle birth yet humble spirit. It
+accepts all trees as neighbors. You meet it everywhere as you journey to
+the sea. But on the uplands only, in a narrow belt like a scarf thrown
+across the shoulders of the mountain, sub-alpine fir (_Abies
+lasiocarpa_) sends up its dark, attenuated spires, in striking contrast
+with the rounded crowns of its companions.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, ASAHEL CURTIS
+
+Group of Red Cedars, five to eight feet in diameter.]
+
+[Illustration: On the road to Government Camp, west of Mount Hood.
+Broadleaf Maple on extreme right; Douglas Firs arching the roadway, and
+White Fir on left.]
+
+A little lower, the transition zone offers a noteworthy intermingling of
+species. Down from the stormy heights come alpine trees to lock branches
+with types from warmer levels. Here you see lodgepole pine (_Pinus
+murrayana_), that wonderful restorer of waste places which sends forth
+countless tiny seedlings to cover fire-swept areas and lava fields with
+forerunners of a forest. Here, too, you will find western white pine
+(_Pinus monticola_), the fair lady of the genus, whose soft, delicate
+foliage, finely chiseled trunk, and golden brown cones denote its
+gentleness; and Engelmann spruce (_Picea Engelmannii_) of greener blue
+than any other, and hung with pendants of soft seed cones, saved from
+pilfering rodents by pungent, bristling needles.
+
+Here also are western larch or tamarack (_Larix occidentalis_); or,
+rarely, on our northern peaks, Lyall's larch (_Larix Lyallii_), whose
+naked branches send out tiny fascicles of soft pale leaves; and Noble
+fir (_Abies nobilis_), stately, magnificent, proud of its supremacy over
+all. And you may come upon a rare cluster of Alaska cedar (_Chamæcyparis
+nootkatensis_), here at its southern limit, reaching down from the
+Coast range of British Columbia almost to meet the Great sugar pines
+(_Pinus lambertiana_) which come up from the granite heights of the
+California sierra to play an important role in the southern Oregon
+forests.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, WEISTER
+
+Where man's a pygmy.
+
+A Noble Fir, 175 feet to first limb.]
+
+Across the roll of ridge and canyon, you see them all; and when you come
+to know them well, each form, each shade of green, though far away, will
+claim your recognition. Yonder, in a hollow of the hills, a cluster of
+blue-green heads is raised above the familiar color of the hemlocks.
+Cross to it, and stand amidst the crowning glory of Nature's art in
+building trees. About you rise columns of Noble firs, faultless in
+symmetry, straight as the line of sight, clean as granite shafts. Carry
+the picture with you; nowhere away from the forests of the Columbia can
+you look upon such perfect trees.
+
+[Illustration: Firs and Hemlocks, in Clarke County, Washington.]
+
+Westward of the Cascade summits the commercial forest of to-day extends
+down from an elevation of about 3,500 feet. Intercepted by these
+heights, the moisture-laden clouds are emptied on the crest of the
+range. Eastward, the effects of decreasing precipitation are shown both
+in species and in density. Tamarack, white fir and pines climb higher on
+these warmer slopes. Along the base of the mountains, and beyond low
+passes where strong west winds drive saturated clouds out over level
+reaches, western yellow pine (_Pinus ponderosa_) becomes almost the only
+tree. Over miles of level lava flow, along the upper Deschutes, this
+species forms a great forest bounded on the east by rolling sage-brush
+plains that stretch southward to the Nevada deserts. Beyond the
+Deschutes drainage, where spurs of the Blue mountains rise to the levels
+of clouds and moisture, the forest again covers the hills, spreading far
+to the east until it disappears again in the broad, treeless valley of
+Snake river. North of the Columbia the story is the same. From the lower
+slopes of Mt. Adams great rolling bunch-grass downs and prairies reach
+far eastward. Here and there, over these drier stretches, stand single
+trees or clusters of western juniper (_Juniperus occidentalis_).
+
+[Illustration: Fifty-year-old Hemlock growing on Cedar log. The latter,
+which was centuries old before it matured and fell, was still sound
+enough to yield many thousand shingles.]
+
+But on the west slope of the Cascades, and over the Coast range, the
+great forests spread in unbroken array, save where wide valleys have
+been cleared by man or hillsides stripped by fire. Here, in the land of
+warm sea winds and abundant moisture, the famous Douglas fir
+(_Pseudotsuga taxifolia_), Pacific red cedar (_Thuja plicata_) and
+tideland spruce (_Picea sitchensis_) attain their greatest development.
+These are the monarchs of the matchless Northwestern forests, to which
+the markets of the world are looking more and more as the lines of
+exhausted supply draw closer.
+
+[Illustration: Sawyers preparing to "fall" a large Tideland Spruce.]
+
+Douglas fir recalls by its name one of the heroes of science, David
+Douglas, a Scotch naturalist who explored these forests nearly ninety
+years ago, and discovered not only this particular giant of the woods,
+but also the great sugar pine and many other fine trees and plants. As a
+pioneer botanist, searching the forest, Douglas presented a surprising
+spectacle to the Indians. "The Man of Grass" they called him, when they
+came to understand that he was not bent on killing the fur-bearing
+animals for the profit to be had from their pelts.
+
+[Illustration: Sugar Pine, Douglas Fir, and Yellow Pine.]
+
+The splendid conifer which woodsmen have called after him is one of the
+kings of all treeland. The most abundant species of the Northwest, it is
+also, commercially, the most important. Sometimes reaching a height of
+more than 250 feet, it grows in remarkably close stands, and covers vast
+areas with valuable timber that will keep the multiplying mills of
+Oregon and Washington sawing for generations. In the dense shade of the
+forests, it raises a straight and stalwart trunk, clear of limb for a
+hundred feet or more. On the older trees, its deeply furrowed bark is
+often a foot thick. Trees of eight feet diameter are at least three
+hundred years old, and rare ones, much larger, have been cut showing an
+age of more than five centuries.
+
+To these areas of the greatest trees must come all who would know the
+real spirit of the forest, at once beneficent and ruthless. Here nature
+selects the fittest. The struggle for soil below and light above is
+relentless. The weakling, crowded and overshadowed, inevitably deepens
+the forest floor with its fallen trunk, adding to the humus that covers
+the lavas, and nourishing in its decay the more fortunate rival that has
+robbed it of life. Here, too, with the architectural splendor of the
+trees, one feels the truth of Bryant's familiar line:
+
+ The groves were God's first temples.
+
+The stately evergreens raise their rugged crowns far toward the sky,
+arching gothic naves that vault high over the thick undergrowth of ferns
+and vine maples. In such scenes, it is easy to understand the woodsman's
+solace, of which Herbert Bashford tells in his "Song of the Forest
+Ranger:"
+
+ I would hear the wild rejoicing
+ Of the wind-blown cedar tree,
+ Hear the sturdy hemlock voicing
+ Ancient epics of the sea.
+ Forest aisles would I be winding,
+ Out beyond the gates of Care;
+ And in dim cathedrals finding
+ Silence at the shrine of Prayer.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ Come and learn the joy of living!
+ Come and you will understand
+ How the sun his gold is giving
+ With a great, impartial hand!
+ How the patient pine is climbing,
+ Year by year to gain the sky;
+ How the rill makes sweetest rhyming
+ Where the deepest shadows lie!
+
+[Illustration: Yellow Cedar, with young Silver Fir.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, GIFFORD
+
+One of the Kings of Treeland--A Douglas Fir.]
+
+Fir, spruce and cedar you will see along the slopes of the Cascades in
+varying density and grandeur, from thickets of slender trees reclaiming
+fire-swept lands to broken ranks of patriarchs whose crowns have swayed
+before the storms of centuries. Among the foot hills, the pale gray
+"grand" or white firs (_Abies grandis_) rear their domes above the
+common plane in quest of light, occasionally attaining a height of 275
+feet, while the lowly yew (_Taxus brevifolia_), of which the warrior of
+an earlier time fashioned his bow, overhangs the noisy streams. In the
+same habitat, where the little rivers debouch into the valleys, you may
+see the broad-leaf maple, Oregon ash, cottonwood, and a score of lesser
+deciduous trees on which the filtered rays of sunshine play in softer
+tones.
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, JAS. WAGGENER, JR.
+
+Firs and Vine Maples in Washington Forest.]
+
+Here and there in the Willamette valley you meet foothill yellow pine
+(_Pinus ponderosa var. benthamiana_), near relative of the western
+yellow pine. Oregon oak (_Quercus garryana_) occurs sparingly throughout
+the valleys, or reaches up the western foothills of the Willamette,
+until it meets the great unbroken forest of the Coast Range.
+
+[Illustration: Towing a log raft out to sea, bound for the California
+markets.]
+
+The dense lower forests are never gaily decked, so little sunlight
+enters. But in early summer, back among the mountains, you may find
+tangles of half-prostrate rhododendron, from which, far as the eye can
+reach, the rose-pink gorgeous flowers give back the tints of sunshine
+and the iridescent hues of raindrops. Mingled with the flush of "laurel"
+blossoms are nodding plumes of creamy squaw grass, the beautiful
+xerophyllum. Often this queenly upland flower covers great areas,
+hiding the desolation wrought by forest fires. Its sheaves of fibrous
+rootstocks furnish the Indian women material for their basket-making;
+hence the most familiar of its many names. The varied green of
+huckleberry bushes is everywhere. They are the common ground cover.
+
+[Illustration: A "Burn" on the slopes of Mount Hood, overgrown with
+Squaw Grass. Such fire-swept areas are quickly covered with mountain
+flowers, of which this beautiful cream-colored plume is one of the most
+familiar. Its roots yield a fiber used by the Indians in making
+baskets.]
+
+[Illustration: COPYRIGHT, GIFFORD
+
+A Noble Fir.]
+
+In valley woodlands, the dogwood, here a tree of fair proportions,
+lights up the somber forest with round, white eyes that peer out through
+bursting leafbuds, early harbingers of summer. The first blush of color
+comes with the unfolding of the pink and red racemes of flowering wild
+currant. Later, sweet syringa fills the air with the breath of orange
+blossoms; and spirea, the Indian arrowwood, hangs its tassels among the
+forest trees or on the bushy hills. But the presence of deciduous trees
+and shrubs, as well as their beauty, is best known in autumn, when
+maples brighten the woods with yellow rays; when dogwood and vine maple
+paint the fire-scarred slopes a flaming red, and a host of other
+color-bearers stain the cliffs with rich tints of saffron and russet and
+brown.
+
+Coming at last to the rim of the forest, you look out over the sea,
+where go lumber-laden ships to all the world. Close by the beach,
+dwarfed and distorted by winds of the ocean, and nourished by its fogs,
+north-coast pine (_Pinus contorta_) extends its prostrate forms over the
+cliffs and dunes of the shore, just as your first acquaintance, the
+white-bark pine, spreads over the dunes and ridges of the mountain. They
+are brothers of a noble race.
+
+[Illustration: Western White Pine.]
+
+You have traversed the wonder-forest of the world, and on your journey
+with the stream you may have come to know twenty-three species of
+cone-bearers, all indigenous to the Columbia country. Of these, one is
+Douglas fir, nowise a true fir but a combination of spruce and hemlock;
+seven are pines, four true firs, two spruces, two hemlocks, two
+tamaracks or larches, two cedars, two junipers, and the yew.
+
+[Illustration: A Clatsop Forest. On extreme right is a Silver Fir,
+covered with moss; next are two fine Hemlocks, with Tideland Spruce on
+left.]
+
+So many large and valuable trees of so many varieties can be found
+nowhere else. A Douglas fir growing within the watershed of the Columbia
+is twelve feet and seven inches in diameter. A single stick 220 feet
+long and 39 inches in diameter at its base has been cut for a flagpole
+in Clatsop county. A spruce twenty feet in diameter has been measured.
+Such immense types are rare, yet in a day's tramp through the Columbia
+forests one may see many trees upwards of eight feet in diameter. One
+acre in the Cowlitz river watershed is said to bear twenty-two trees,
+each eight feet or more at its base. Though no exact measurements can be
+cited, it is likely that upon different single acres 400,000 feet, board
+measure, of standing timber may be found. And back among the Cascades,
+upon one forty-acre tract, are 9,000,000 feet--enough to build a town.
+Manufactured, this body of timber would be worth $135,000, of which
+about $100,000 would be paid to labor.
+
+[Illustration: A Carpet of Firs; 300,000 feet, cut on one acre in a
+Columbia forest.]
+
+Along the Columbia you will hear shrill signals of the straining engines
+that haul these gigantic trees to the rafting grounds. Up and down the
+broad river ply steamboats trailing huge log-rafts to the mills. Each
+year the logging railroads push farther back among the mountains, to
+bring forth lumber for Australia, the Orient, South America, Europe and
+Africa. Many of our own states, which a few years ago boasted
+"inexhaustible" forests, now draw from this supply.
+
+[Illustration: Winter in the forest. Mount Hood seen from Government
+Camp road. Twenty feet of snow.]
+
+Since 1905 Washington has been the leading lumber-producing state of the
+Union, and Oregon has advanced, in one year, from ninth to fourth place.
+The 1910 production of lumber in these states was 6,182,125,000 feet, or
+15.4 per cent. of the total output of the United States. The same
+states, it is estimated, have 936,800,000,000 feet of standing
+merchantable timber, or a third of the country's total.
+
+[Illustration: Rangers' Pony Trail in forest of Douglas and Silver
+Firs.]
+
+This is the heritage which the centuries of forest life have bequeathed.
+Only the usufruct of it is rightfully ours. Even as legal owners, we are
+nevertheless but trustees of that which was here before the coming of
+our race, and which should be here in great quantity when our trails
+have led beyond the range. Our duty is plain. Let us uphold every effort
+to give meaning and power to the civil laws which say: "Thou shalt not
+burn;" to the moral laws which say: "Thou shalt not waste." Let us
+understand and support that spirit of conservation which demands for
+coming generations the fullest measure of the riches we enjoy. For
+although the region of the Columbia is the home of the greatest trees,
+centuries must pass ere the seedlings of to-day will stand matured.
+
+[Illustration: Forest Fire on east fork of Hood River. From a photograph
+taken at Cloud Cap Inn five minutes after the fire started.]
+
+Reforestation is indispensable as insurance. Let us see to it that the
+untillable hills shall ever bear these matchless forests, emerald
+settings for our snow-peaks. On their future depends, in great degree,
+the future of the Northwest. As protectors of the streams that nourish
+our valleys, and perennial treasuries of power for our industries, they
+are guarantors of life and well-being to the millions that will soon
+people the vast Columbia basin.
+
+[Illustration: Reforestation--Three generations of young growth;
+Lodgepole Pine in foreground; Lodgepole and Tamarack thicket on ridge at
+right; Tamarack on skyline.]
+
+
+
+
+NOTES
+
+
+ =Transportation Routes, Hotels, Guides, etc.=--The
+ trip from Portland to north side of Mount Hood is made
+ by rail (Oregon-Washington Ry. & Nay. Co. from Union
+ station) or boat (The Dalles, Portland & Astoria Nav.
+ Co. from foot of Alder street) to Hood River, Ore. (66
+ miles), where automobiles are taken for Cloud Cap Inn.
+ Fare, to Hood River, by rail, $1.90; by boat, $1.00.
+ Auto fare, Hood River to the Inn, $5.00. Round trip,
+ Portland to Inn and return, by rail, $12.50; by boat,
+ $12.00. Board and room at Cloud Cap Inn, $5.00 a day,
+ or $30.00 a week. Accommodations may be reserved at
+ Travel Bureau, 69 Fifth street.
+
+ To Government Camp, south side of Mount Hood (56
+ miles), the trip is made by electric cars to Boring,
+ Oregon, and thence by automobile. Cars of the Portland
+ Railway, Light & Power Co., leave First and Alder
+ streets for Boring (fare 40 cents), where they connect
+ with automobiles (fare to Government Camp, $5.00).
+ Board and room at Coalman's Government Camp hotel,
+ $3.00 a day, or $18.00 a week.
+
+ Guides for the ascent of Mt. Hood, as well as for a
+ variety of side trips, may be engaged at Cloud Cap Inn
+ and Government Camp. For climbing parties, the charge
+ is $5.00 per member.
+
+ The trip to Mount Adams is by Spokane, Portland &
+ Seattle ("North Bank") Railway from North Bank station
+ or by boat (as above) to White Salmon, Wash.,
+ connecting with automobile or stage for Guler or
+ Glenwood. Fare to White Salmon by rail, $2.25; round
+ trip, $3.25; fare by boat, $1.00. White Salmon to
+ Guler, $3.00. Board and room at Chris. Guler's hotel
+ at Guler P. O., near Trout Lake, $1.50 a day, or $9.00
+ a week. Similar rates to and at Glenwood. At either
+ place, guides and horses may be engaged for the
+ mountain trails (15 miles to the snow-line). Bargain
+ in advance.
+
+ The south side of Mount St. Helens is reached by rail
+ from Union station, Portland, to Yacolt (fare $1.30)
+ or Woodland ($1.00), where conveyances may be had for
+ Peterson's ranch on Lewis River. To the north side,
+ the best route is by rail to Castle Rock (fare,
+ $1.90), and by vehicle thence to Spirit Lake. Regular
+ guides for the mountain are not to be had, but the
+ trails are well marked.
+
+
+ =Automobile Roads.=--Portland has many excellent roads
+ leading out of the city, along the Columbia and the
+ Willamette. One of the most attractive follows the
+ south bank of the Columbia to Rooster Rock and
+ Latourelle Falls (25 miles). As it is on the high
+ bluffs for much of the distance, it commands extended
+ views of the river in each direction, and of the
+ snow-peaks east and north of the city. Return may be
+ made via the Sandy River valley. This road is now
+ being extended eastward from Latourelle Falls to
+ connect with the road which is building westward from
+ Hood River. When completed the highway will be one of
+ the great scenic roads of the world.
+
+ From Portland, several roads through the near-by
+ villages lead to a junction with the highway to
+ Government Camp on the south side of Mount Hood (56
+ miles). The mountain portion of this is the old Barlow
+ Road of the "immigrant" days in early Oregon, and is
+ now a toll road. (Toll for vehicles, round trip,
+ $2.50.) Supervisor T. H. Sherrard, of the Oregon
+ National Forest Service, is now building a road from
+ the west boundary of the national forest, at the
+ junction of Zigzag and Sandy rivers, crossing Sandy
+ canyon (see p. 71), following the Clear Fork of the
+ Sandy to the summit of the Cascades, crossing the
+ range by the lowest pass in the state (elevation,
+ 3,300 feet), and continuing down Elk Creek and West
+ Fork of Hood River to a junction with the road from
+ Lost Lake into Hood River valley. The completion of
+ this road through the forest reserve will open a
+ return route from Hood River to the Government Camp
+ road, through a mountain district of the greatest
+ interest.
+
+ Southward from Portland, inviting roads along the
+ Willamette lead to Oregon City, Salem, Eugene and
+ Albany. From Portland westward, several good roads are
+ available, leading along the Columbia or through
+ Banks, Buxton and Mist to Astoria and the beach
+ resorts south of that city. North of the Columbia
+ (ferry to Vancouver), a route of great interest leads
+ eastward along the Columbia to Washougal and the
+ canyon of Washougal River (45 miles). From Vancouver
+ northward a popular road follows the Columbia to
+ Woodland and Kalama, and thence along the Cowlitz
+ River to Castle Rock.
+
+ The tour book of the Portland Automobile Club, giving
+ details of these and many other roads, may be had for
+ $1.50 in paper covers, or $2.50 in leather.
+
+
+ =Bibliography.=--The geological story of the Cascade
+ uptilt and the formation of the Columbia gorge is
+ graphically told in _Condon: Oregon Geology_
+ (Portland, J. K. Gill Co., 1910). For the Columbia
+ from its sources to the sea, _Lyman: The Columbia
+ River_ (New York, G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1909) not only
+ gives the best account of the river itself and its
+ great basin but tells the Indian legends and outlines
+ the period of discovery and settlement. _Irving:
+ Astoria_ and _Winthrop: The Canoe and the Saddle_ are
+ classics of the early Northwest. _Balch: Bridge of the
+ Gods_, weaves the Indian myth of a natural bridge into
+ a story of love and war.
+
+ The literature of the mountains described in this
+ volume is mainly to be found in the publications of
+ the mountain clubs, especially _Mazama_ (Portland),
+ _The Sierra Club Bulletin_ (San Francisco) and _The
+ Mountaineer_ (Seattle). Many of their papers have
+ scientific value as well as popular interest. It is to
+ be hoped that the Mazamas will resume the publication
+ of their annual.
+
+ _Russell: Glaciers of N. Am._ p. 67; _Emmons:
+ Volcanoes of the U. S. Pacific Coast_, in _Bulletin of
+ Am. Geog. Soc._, v. 9, p. 31; _Sylvester: Is Mt. Hood
+ Awakening?_ in _Nat'l Geog. Mag._, v. 19, p. 515,
+ describe the glaciers of Mt. Hood. Prof. Reid has
+ published valuable accounts of both Hood and Adams,
+ with especial reference to their glaciers, in
+ _Science_, n. s., v. 15, p. 906; _Bul. Geol. Soc. of
+ Am._, v. 13, p. 536, and _Zeitschrift fur
+ Gletscherkunde_, v. 1, p. 113. An account of the
+ volcanic activities of St. Helens by Lieut. C. P.
+ Elliott, U. S. A., may be found in _U. S. Geog. Mag._,
+ v. 8, pp. 226, and by J. S. Diller in _Science_, v. 9,
+ p. 639.
+
+ The ice caves of the Mt. Adams district are described
+ in _Balch_: _Glacieres, or Freezing Caverns_, which
+ covers similar phenomena in many countries; by L. H.
+ Wells, in _Pacific Monthly_, v. 13, p. 234; by R. W.
+ Raymond, in _Overland Monthly_, v. 3, p. 421; by H. T.
+ Finck in _Nation_, v. 57, p. 342.
+
+ Dryer's account of the first ascent of Mt. St. Helens
+ may be found in _The Oregonian_ of September 3, 1853,
+ and his story of the first ascent of Mt. Hood in _The
+ Oregonian_, August 19, 1854, and _Littell's Living
+ Age_, v. 43, p. 321.
+
+
+ =The Mountain Clubs.=--For the following list of
+ presidents and ascents of the Mazamas, I am indebted
+ to Miss Gertrude Metcalfe, historian of the club:
+
+ PRESIDENTS. OFFICIAL ASCENTS.
+
+ 1894 Will G. Steel Mt. Hood, Oregon.
+ 1895 Will G. Steel--L. L. Hawkins Mt. Adams, Washington.
+ 1896 C. H. Sholes Mt. Mazama (named for the
+ Mazamas, 1896), Mt.
+ McLoughlin (Pitt), Crater
+ Lake, Oregon.
+ 1897 Henry L. Pittock Mt. Rainier, Washington.
+ 1898 Hon. M. C. George Mt. St. Helens, Washington.
+ 1899 Will G. Steel Mt. Sahale (named by the
+ Mazamas, 1899), Lake
+ Chelan, Wash.
+ 1900 T. Brook White Mt. Jefferson, Oregon.
+ 1901 Mark O'Neill Mt. Hood, Oregon.
+ 1902 Mark O'Neill Mt. Adams, Washington.
+ 1903 R. L. Glisan Three Sisters, Oregon.
+ 1904 C. H. Sholes Mt. Shasta, California.
+ 1905 Judge H. H. Northup Mt. Rainier, Washington.
+ 1906 C. H. Sholes Mt. Baker (Northeast side),
+ Wash.
+ 1907 C. H. Sholes Mt. Jefferson, Oregon.
+ 1908 C. H. Sholes Mt. St. Helens, Washington.
+ 1909 M. W. Gorman Mt. Baker (Southwest side),
+ and Shuksan, Washington.
+ 1910 John A. Lee Three Sisters, Oregon.
+ 1911 H. H. Riddell Glacier Peak, Lake Chelan, Wash.
+ 1912 Edmund P. Sheldon Mt. Hood, Oregon.
+
+ The organization and success of the Portland Snow Shoe
+ Club are mainly due to the enthusiastic labors of its
+ president, J. Wesley Ladd. Between 1901 and 1909, Mr.
+ Ladd took a private party of his friends each winter
+ for snow shoeing and other winter sports to Cloud Cap
+ Inn or Government Camp. Three years ago it was
+ determined to form a club and erect a house near Cloud
+ Cap Inn. The club was duly incorporated and a permit
+ obtained from the United States Forest Service. Mr.
+ Ladd, who has been president of the club since its
+ formation, writes me:
+
+ "Our club house was started in July, 1910, and was
+ erected by Mr. Mark Weygandt, the worthy mountain
+ guide who has conducted so many parties to the top of
+ Mt. Hood. It is built of white fir logs, all selected
+ there in the forest. I have been told in a letter from
+ the Montreal Amateur Athletic Club of Montreal,
+ Canada, that we have the most unique and up-to-date
+ Snow Shoe Club building in the world. The site for the
+ house was selected by Mr. Horace Mecklem and myself,
+ who made a special trip up there. The building was
+ finished in September, 1910. It is forty feet long and
+ twenty four feet wide, with a six-foot fireplace and a
+ large up-to-date cooking range. The organizers of the
+ club are as follows: Harry L. Corbett, Elliott R.
+ Corbett, David T. Honeyman, Walter B. Honeyman, Rodney
+ L. Glisan, Dr. Herbert S. Nichols, Horace Mecklem,
+ Brandt Wickersham, Jordan V. Zan, and myself."
+
+ The Portland Ski Club was organized six years ago, and
+ has since made a trip to Government Camp in January or
+ February of each year. The journey is made by vehicle
+ until snow is gained on the foothills, at
+ Rhododendron; the remaining ten miles are covered on
+ skis. The presidents of the club have been: 1907,
+ James A. Ambrose; 1908, George S. Luders; 1909, Howard
+ H. Haskell; 1910, E. D. Jorgensen; 1911, G. R. Knight;
+ 1912, John C. Cahalin.
+
+ The Mountaineers, a club organized in Seattle in 1907,
+ made a noteworthy ascent of Mount Adams in 1911.
+
+
+ =Climate.=--The weather conditions in the lower
+ Columbia River region are a standing invitation to
+ outdoor life during a long and delightful summer.
+ Western Oregon and Washington know no extremes of heat
+ or cold at any time of the year. The statistics here
+ given are from tables of the U. S. Weather Bureau,
+ averaged for the period of government record:
+
+ Mean annual rainfall: Portland, 45.1 inches; The
+ Dalles, 19 inches. Portland averages 164 days with .01
+ of an inch precipitation during the year, and The
+ Dalles 74 days; but the long and comparatively dry
+ summer is indicated by the fact that only 27 of these
+ days at Portland and 15 at The Dalles fell in the
+ summer months, June to September inclusive.
+
+ Mean annual temperature varies little between the east
+ and west sides of the Cascades, Portland having a
+ 57-year average of 52.8° as compared with 52.5° at The
+ Dalles. But the range of temperature is greater in the
+ interior. Thus the mean monthly temperature for
+ January, the coldest month, is 38.7° at Portland and
+ 32.6° at The Dalles, while for July, the hottest
+ month, it is 67.3° at Portland and 72.6° at The
+ Dalles.
+
+ While mountain weather must always be an uncertain
+ quantity, that of the Northwestern snow-peaks is
+ comparatively steady, owing to the dry summer of the
+ lowlands. During July and August, the snow-storms of
+ the Alps are almost unknown here. After the middle of
+ September, however, when the rains have begun, a
+ visitor to the snow-line is liable to encounter
+ weather very like that recorded by a belated tourist
+ at Zermatt:
+
+ First it rained and then it blew,
+ And then it friz and then it snew,
+ And then it fogged and then it thew;
+ And very shortly after then
+ It blew and friz and snew again.
+
+
+ =Erratum.=--On page 72, I have been misled by Dryer's
+ statement into crediting the first ascent of Mount
+ Hood to Captain Samuel K. Barlow, the road builder.
+ The mountain climber was his son, William Barlow, as I
+ am informed by Mr. George H. Himes, of the Oregon
+ Historical Society.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+Figures in light face type refer to the text, those in heavier type to
+illustrations.
+
+
+ Adams, Mt., Indian legend of its origin, 43;
+ routes to, 66, 67;
+ structure and glaciers, 89-104;
+ lava flows, 93-97;
+ tree casts, 94;
+ caves, 94-96;
+ routes to summit, 96-100;
+ name, 103;
+ height, 104;
+ first ascent, 104;
+ views of, =8=, =15=, =17=, =31=, =63=, =86-107=
+
+ Adams glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =103=, 104, =106=
+
+ Alps, character and scenery, 60
+
+ Archer Mountain, =29=
+
+ Arrowhead Mountain, =29=, =31=
+
+ Astoria, 51, =16=, =21=
+
+ Automobile roads, 140
+
+ Avalanche glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, 107
+
+
+ Barlow, William, ascent of Mt. Hood, 72, 79, 142
+
+ Barlow road, 70, 142, =78=
+
+ Barrett Spur, 86, =57=, =69=, =75=
+
+ Bibliography, 141
+
+ Blue Mountains, 18, 24
+
+ "Bridge of the Gods," Indian legend, 36-43; =21=, =35=
+
+ Bryce, James, on Northwestern mountains, 60
+
+
+ Cabbage Rock, =47=
+
+ Cape Horn, =19=
+
+ Carbon glacier, 102
+
+ Cascade locks, =39=
+
+ Cascade Mountains, 18, 24, 25, 28, 30, 58-66
+
+ Castle Rock (Columbia River), =28=, =29=, =31=
+
+ Castle Rock, Wash., 106
+
+ Cedars, group of red, =128=
+
+ Celilo Falls (Tumwater), =52=, =54=
+
+ Chelatchie Prairie, =114=
+
+ Chinook wind, Indian legend of its origin, 46-48
+
+ Climate, 142
+
+ Cloud Cap Inn, 15, 67, 78, =57=, =58=, =60=, =66=
+
+ Coast Range, 58
+
+ Coe glacier, Mt. Hood, 78, 80, 83-86, =69=, =72=, =75=
+
+ Columbia River, John Muir's description, 15;
+ dawn on, 15-23;
+ its gorge, 30;
+ Indian legends of its origin, 36-43;
+ its discovery by Capt. Gray, 51;
+ struggle for its ownership, 50-52;
+ its settlement, 52;
+ views of, =7=, =9=, =14-52=, =56=, =109=
+
+ Columbia Slough, =18=, =21=
+
+ "Coming of the White Man," statue, =23=
+
+ Cooper Spur, Mt. Hood, 79, 80, 87, =57-60=
+
+ Crater Rock, 81, 87, =77=, =80=
+
+
+ Dalles, The, 18, 39, 96, 107, =46=, =47=, =49=
+
+ Douglas, David, 131
+
+ Douglas firs, 131, 132, =122=, =130=, =132=, =133=
+
+ Dryer, T. J., 72, 115
+
+
+ Eliot glacier, Mt. Hood, 15, 67, 78, 83-86, =17=, =58-67=, =73=, =92=
+
+
+ Forest, on lava beds, 94, 107-112, =111=
+
+ "Forests, The," chapter by Harold Douglas Langille, 123-139, =122-139=
+
+ Forsyth, C. E., leader in rescue on Mt. St. Helens, 121
+
+
+ Glacieres, freezing caves, 95, 96, =87=
+
+ Glenwood, Wash., 68, 96
+
+ Goldendale, Wash., 68
+
+ Government Camp, 68, 70, 140, 142, =78=, =81=
+
+ "Grant Castle," on the Columbia, =46=
+
+ Gray, Capt. Robert, 51
+
+ Guler, Wash., 68, 96, =89=, =90=
+
+
+ Hellroaring Canyon, 103, =95=, =96=, =97=
+
+ Hood, Mt., dawn on, 15;
+ Indian legend of its origin, 43;
+ John Muir on, 57;
+ routes to, 66-70;
+ first ascent, 72, 75;
+ height, 75, 76;
+ the Mazamas organized on summit, 75;
+ structure and glaciers, 75-89;
+ summit, 80, =6=, =55=, =70=;
+ crater, 81, 82, =77=;
+ lava bed, 89;
+ views of, =6=, =14=, =17=, =21=, =57-85=, =123=, =124=, =138=
+
+ Hood River, =43=, =85=
+
+ Hood River (city), Ore., 67, 140, =43=, =109=
+
+ Hood River Valley, 18, 63, 66, 67, =44=
+
+ Hudson's Bay Company, 51
+
+
+ Ice caves, 95, 96, =87=
+
+ Illumination Rock, 81, =77=, 79
+
+ Indians, legend of the creation, 32;
+ "Bridge of the Gods," 36-43;
+ origin of the Chinook wind, 46-48;
+ value of their place names, 104;
+ Leschi, first Indian to scale a snow-peak, 115; =21=, =23=,
+ =26=, =30=, =44=, =50=, =52=
+
+
+
+ Japan current, 46
+
+ Jefferson, Mt., 104, =83=
+
+
+ Kelley, Hall J., 103
+
+ Klickitat glacier, Mt. Adams, 97-103; =94=, =97-100=
+
+ Klickitat River, 68, =144=
+
+
+ Ladd glacier, Mt. Hood, 78, 80, 83-86, =69=, =75=
+
+ Langille, Harold Douglas, "The Forests," 123-139
+
+ Langille, William A., 80
+
+ Lava beds, tree casts, caves, etc., near Mt. Adams, 89-96, =86=, =87=;
+ near Mt. St. Helens, 107-112, =111=, =112=;
+ struggle of the forest to cover, 108-112, =111=
+
+ Lava glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =101-104=
+
+ Lewis and Clark, exploration, 51
+
+ Lewis River, 106, 107, =108=
+
+ Lily, the Mt. Hood, =81=
+
+ Lone Rock, =19=, =29=
+
+ Loowit, the witch woman, 41-43
+
+ Lyle, Wash, 68, =9=, =45=
+
+ Lyman glaciers, Mt. Adams, 100, =101=
+
+ Lyman, Prof. W. D., 51, 82, 103
+
+
+ Mazama glacier, Mt. Adams, 97, 100, =94=, =96=
+
+ Mazama Rock, Mt. Hood, =70=
+
+ Mazamas, mountain club, organization, 75;
+ ascents of Mt. St. Helens, 116;
+ an heroic rescue, 120, 121;
+ presidents, 142;
+ ascents, 142; =80=, =82=, =93=, =117=, =124=
+
+ Memaloose Island, =42=
+
+ Mountains, importance in scenery, 59
+
+ "Mountain that was 'God,'" =105=
+
+ Mountaineers, The, 142, =103=
+
+ Multnomah Falls, =26=, =27=, =28=
+
+
+ Newton Clark glacier, Mt. Hood, 79, 87, =83=, =84=
+
+ Noble fir, 129, 130, =125=, =130=, =136=
+
+ North Yakima, Wash., 68
+
+
+ Oneonta gorge, =30=, =32=
+
+ Oregon, its geological story, 23-32;
+ its settlement, 50-54
+
+
+ Peterson's, near Mt. St. Helens, 106, 107
+
+ Plummer, Fred G., 115
+
+ Pinnacle glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =106=, =107=
+
+ Portland, Ore., 57, 140, =7=, =22=, =61=, =113=
+
+ Portland Automobile Club, 70, 140
+
+ Portland Ski Club, 142, =81=
+
+ Portland Snow-shoe Club, 142, =57=, =62=, =66=
+
+ "Presidents' Range," 104
+
+ Puget Sound, 27
+
+
+ Rainier, Mt. or Mt. Tacoma, and Rainier National Park, 83, 102,
+ =51=, =105=, =113=, =117=
+
+ Red Butte, Mt. Adams, =86=
+
+ Reforestation, =139=
+
+ Reid, Prof. Harry Fielding, 87, 103, =79=
+
+ Rhododendrons, 134, =127=
+
+ Ridge of Wonders, Mt. Adams, 103, =96=, =98=, =99=
+
+ Riley, Frank B., 120, 121
+
+ Rocky Mountains, 23
+
+ Rooster Rock, =25=
+
+ Rusk, C. E., 103
+
+ Rusk glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, 102, =98=, =101=
+
+ Ruskin, John, quoted, 59, 60, 123
+
+
+ "Sacajawea," statue, =23=
+
+ Sacramento Valley, origin, 26
+
+ Salmon fishing, =16=, =25=, =33=, =36=, =48=
+
+ Sandy glaciers and canyon, Mt. Hood, 86, 87, =71=, =76=
+
+ Sandy, Ore., =51=
+
+ San Joaquin Valley, origin, 21
+
+ Shaw, Col. B. F., 104
+
+ Siskiyou Mountains, 24
+
+ South Butte, Mt. Adams, 96, =89=
+
+ Speelyei, the coyote god, 32, 47
+
+ Spirit Lake, 106, =4=
+
+ Squaw grass, 134, =135=
+
+ Steel's Cliff, 81, =91=
+
+ St. Helens, Mt., Indian legend of its origin, 43;
+ compared with Mt. Adams, 90, 94;
+ discovery and name, 104;
+ structure, 104-6;
+ height, 106;
+ routes to, 106;
+ recent eruptions, 106, 107;
+ lava beds, 107-112;
+ glaciers, 112-115;
+ routes to summit, 112-116;
+ volcanic phenomena, 115;
+ first ascent, 115;
+ the Mazamas on, 116, 120, 121;
+ an heroic rescue, 120, 121;
+ views of, =4=, =8=, =15=, =17=, =108-121=
+
+ St. Peter's Dome, =20=, =31=
+
+ Sylvester, A. H., 86, 87
+
+
+ Table Mountain, =31=, =35=, =36=
+
+ Toutle River canyons, Mt. St. Helens, 115, =116=
+
+ Tree casts, 94, 107, =111=
+
+ Trout Lake, 15, 62, 66, 76, =89=, =110=
+
+
+ Umatilla, Ore., 62
+
+ Umatilla Indian village, =50=
+
+
+ Vancouver, Capt. George, 72, 104
+
+ Vancouver, Wash., 106, =15=, =24=
+
+ Volcanoes, 27, 28
+
+
+ White River glacier, Mt. Hood, 81, =75=, =77=, =82=
+
+ White Salmon, Wash., 67, 140, =42=, =44=
+
+ White Salmon glacier, Mt. Adams, 100, =107=
+
+ White Salmon River, =41=
+
+ White Salmon Valley, 56, 89
+
+ Willamette River, 21, 57, =9=, =113=
+
+ Wind Mountain, =39=, =40=
+
+ Woodland, Wash., 106, 140
+
+
+ Yacolt, Wash., 106, 140
+
+ Yakima Indians, 48, =21=
+
+ Y. M. C. A., party on Mt. Hood, =76=;
+ on Mt. Adams, =86=
+
+ Yocum, O. C., 70
+
+
+ Zigzag glacier, Mt. Hood, 81, 87, =77=, =79=
+
+ Zigzag River and Canyon, 86, 87, =48=, =78=
+
+[Illustration: Klickitat River Canyon, near Mount Adams.]
+
+
+ ENGRAVINGS BY THE HICKS-CHATTEN CO.
+
+ COLOR PRINTING BY THE KILHAM STATIONERY AND PRINTING CO.
+
+ PORTLAND, OREGON
+
+
+
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+Obvious punctuation errors were corrected.
+
+Page 10, "Moorhouse" changed to "Moorehouse" (Lee Moorehouse 26)
+
+Page 51, "monoply" changed to "monopoly" (a foreign monopoly that)
+
+Page 54, "descendents" changed to "descendants" (pride of their
+descendants)
+
+Page 60, illustration with caption beginning "Cone of Mount Hood",
+"scoriae" changed to "scoriæ" (ridge of volcanic scoriæ)
+
+Page 78, "pretentions" changed to "pretensions" (with very modest
+pretensions)
+
+Page 81, "scoriae" changed to "scoriæ" (rocks and the scoriæ which)
+
+Page 83, "tripple" changed to "triple" (and even triple border)
+
+Page 97, double word "to" removed from test. Original read (stairway
+tilted to to forty)
+
+Page 141, italics added to "U. S. Geog. Mag." and "Science" to follow
+rest of usage (in _U. S. Geog. Mag._, v. 8, pp. 226, and by J. S. Diller
+in _Science_)
+
+Page 142, Erratum, "Captin" changed to "Captain" (to Captain Samuel K.
+Barlow)
+
+Page 143, Indians, Leschi, only the first illustration is of Leschi, the
+rest of the bolded page numbers are of other people.
+
+Page 143, Zigzag River and Canyon, bold text added to "48" as it is an
+illustration (Canyon, 86, 87, =48=, =78=)
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 42893 ***
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