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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43566 ***
+
+[Illustration: CHARLES LAMB.]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+A DISSERTATION UPON ROAST PIG
+
+BY CHARLES LAMB
+
+_Illustrated by L. J. Bridgman_
+
+
+ BOSTON
+ D. LOTHROP COMPANY
+ FRANKLIN AND HAWLEY STREETS
+
+
+
+ COPYRIGHT, 1888
+ BY
+ D. LOTHROP COMPANY.
+
+
+PRESSWORK BY BERWICK & SMITH, BOSTON.
+
+
+[Illustration: YE DELIGHTFUL PIG.]
+
+
+[Illustration: BO-BO PLAYETH WITH FIRE.]
+
+
+
+
+UPON ROAST PIG
+
+
+Mankind, says a Chinese manuscript, which my friend M. was obliging enough
+to read and explain to me, for the first seventy thousand ages ate their
+meat raw, clawing or biting it from the living animal, just as they do in
+Abyssinia to this day. This period is not obscurely hinted at by their
+great Confucius in the second chapter of his Mundane Mutations, where
+he designates a kind of golden age by the term Cho-fang, literally the
+Cooks' holiday. The manuscript goes on to say, that the art of roasting,
+or rather broiling (which I take to be the elder brother) was accidentally
+discovered in the manner following: The swineherd, Ho-ti, having gone
+out in the woods one morning, as his manner was, to collect masts for
+his hogs, left his cottage in the care of his eldest son Bo-bo, a great
+lubberly boy, who being fond of playing with fire, as younkers of his
+age commonly are, let some sparks escape into a bundle of straw, which
+kindling quickly, spread the conflagration over every part of their
+poor mansion, till it was reduced to ashes. Together with the cottage,
+(a sorry antediluvian makeshift of a building, you may think it),
+what was of much more importance, a fine litter of new-farrowed pigs,
+no less than nine in number, perished. China pigs had been esteemed a
+luxury all over the East, from the remotest periods that we read of.
+Bo-bo was in the utmost consternation, as you may think, not so much for
+the sake of the tenement, which his father and he could easily build
+up again with a few dry branches, and the labour of an hour or two,
+at any time, as for the loss of the pigs. While he was thinking what
+he should say to his father, and wringing his hands over the smoking
+remnants of one of those untimely sufferers, an odour assailed his
+nostrils, unlike any scent which he had before experienced. What could
+it proceed from?--not from the burnt cottage--he had smelt that smell
+before--indeed this was by no means the first accident of the kind which
+had occured through the negligence of this unlucky young firebrand.
+Much less did it resemble that of any known herb, weed, or flower.
+A premonitory moistening at the same time overflowed his nether lip.
+He knew not what to think. He next stooped down to feel the pig, if there
+were any signs of life in it. He burnt his fingers, and to cool them
+he applied them in his booby fashion to his mouth. Some of the crumbs
+of the scorched skin had come away with his fingers, and for the first
+time in his life (in the world's life indeed, for before him no man
+had known it) he tasted--_crackling_! Again he felt and fumbled at the
+pig. It did not burn him so much now, still he licked his finger from a
+sort of habit. The truth at length broke into his slow understanding,
+that it was the pig that smelt so, and the pig that tasted so delicious;
+and surrendering himself up to the newborn pleasure, he fell to tearing
+up whole handfuls of the scorched skin with the flesh next it, and
+was cramming it down his throat in his beastly fashion, when his sire
+entered amid the smoking rafters, armed with retributory cudgel, and
+finding how affairs stood, began to rain blows upon the young rogue's
+shoulders, as thick as hailstones, which Bo-bo heeded not any more than
+if they had been flies. The tickling pleasure which he experienced in
+his lower regions, had rendered him quite callous to any inconveniences
+he might feel in those remote quarters. His father might lay on, but he
+could not beat him from his pig, till he had fairly made an end of it,
+when, becoming a little more sensible of his situation, something like
+the following dialogue ensued:
+
+[Illustration: YE FIRST TASTE.]
+
+"You graceless whelp, what have you got there devouring? Is it not enough
+that you have burnt me down three houses with your dog's tricks, and
+be hanged to you, but you must be eating fire, and I know not what--what
+have you got there, I say?"
+
+"O father, the pig, the pig! do come and taste how nice the burnt pig
+eats."
+
+The ears of Ho-ti tingled with horror. He cursed his son, and he cursed
+himself that ever he should beget a son that should eat burnt pig.
+
+Bo-bo, whose scent was wonderfully sharpened since morning, soon raked
+out another pig, and fairly rending it asunder, thrust the lesser half
+by main force into the fists of Ho-ti, still shouting out, "Eat, eat,
+eat the burnt pig, father, only taste--O Lord,"--with such-like barbarous
+ejaculations, cramming all the while as if he would choke.
+
+[Illustration: HO-TI BEATETH HIS SON.]
+
+Ho-ti trembled every joint while he grasped the abominable things
+wavering whether he should not put his son to death for an unnatural
+young monster, when the crackling scorching his fingers, as it had
+done his son's, and applying the same remedy to them, he in his turn
+tasted some of its flavour, which, make what sour mouths he would for
+a pretence, proved not altogether displeasing to him. In conclusion
+(for the manuscript here is a little tedious) both father and son fairly
+sat down to the mess, and never left off till they had despatched all
+that remained of the litter.
+
+Bo-bo was strictly enjoined not to let the secret escape, for the
+neighbors would certainly have stoned them for a couple of abominable
+wretches, who could think of improving upon the good meat which God had
+sent them. Nevertheless, strange stories got about. It was observed that
+Ho-ti's cottage was burnt down now more frequently than ever. Nothing
+but fires from this time forward. Some would break out in broad day,
+others in the night-time. As often as the sow farrowed, so sure was
+the house of Ho-ti to be in a blaze; and Ho-ti himself, which was the
+more remarkable, instead of chastising his son, seemed to grow more
+indulgent to him than ever. At length they were watched, the terrible
+mystery discovered, and father and son summoned to take their trial
+at Pekin, than an inconsiderable assize town. Evidence was given,
+the obnoxious food itself produced in court, and verdict about to be
+pronounced, when the foreman of the jury begged that some of the burnt
+pig, of which the culprits stood accused, might be handed into the box.
+He handled it, and they all handled it, and burning their fingers,
+as Bo-bo and his father had done before them, and nature prompting to
+each of them the same remedy, against the face of all the facts, and
+the clearest charge which judge had ever given,--to the surprise of the
+whole court, townsfolk, strangers, reporters, and all present--without
+leaving the box, or any manner of consultation whatever, they brought
+in a simultaneous verdict of Not Guilty.
+
+[Illustration: YE FAMILY REJOICETH.]
+
+The judge, who was a shrewd fellow, winked at the manifest iniquity
+of the decision; and, when the court was dismissed, went privily, and
+bought up all the pigs that could be had for love or money. In a few days
+his Lordship's town house was observed to be on fire. The thing took
+wing, and now there was nothing to be seen but fires in every direction.
+Fuel and pigs grew enormously dear all over the district. The insurance
+offices one and all shut up shop. People built slighter and slighter
+every day, until it was feared that the very science of architecture would
+in no long time be lost to the world. Thus this custom of firing houses
+continued, till in process of time, says my manuscript, a sage arose,
+like our Locke, who made a discovery, that the flesh of swine, or indeed
+of any other animal, might be cooked (_burnt_, as they call it) without
+the necessity of consuming a whole house to dress it. Then first began
+the rude form of a gridiron. Roasting by the string, or spit, came in a
+century or two later, I forget in whose dynasty. By such slow degrees,
+concludes the manuscript, do the most useful, and seemingly the most
+obvious arts, make their way among mankind.
+
+[Illustration: YE MYSTERY IS SOLVED.]
+
+Without placing too implicit faith in the account above given, it must
+be agreed, that if a worthy pretext for so dangerous an experiment as
+setting houses on fire (especially in these days) could be assigned in
+favour of any culinary object, that pretext and excuse might be found
+in roast pig.
+
+Of all the delicacies in the whole _mundus edibilis_, I will maintain
+it to be the most delicate--_princeps obsoniorum_.
+
+I speak not of your grown porkers--things between pig and pork--those
+hobbydehoys--but a young and tender suckling--under a moon old--guiltless
+as yet of the sty--with no original speck of the _amor immunditiæ_, the
+hereditary failing of the first parent, yet manifest--his voice as yet
+not broken, but something between a childish treble, and a grumble--the
+mild forerunner, or _præludium_, of a grunt.
+
+_He must be roasted._ I am not ignorant that our ancestors ate them
+seethed, or boiled--but what a sacrifice of the exterior tegument!
+
+[Illustration: YE JURY GIVETH ITS VERDICT.]
+
+There is no flavour comparable, I will contend, to that of the crisp,
+tawny, well-watched, not over-roasted, _crackling_, as it is well
+called--the very teeth are invited to their share of the pleasure at
+this banquet in overcoming the coy, brittle resistance--with the adhesive
+oleaginous--O call it not fat--but an indefiable sweetness growing up
+to it--the tender blossoming of fat--fat cropped in the bud--taken in
+the shoot--in the first innocence--the cream and quintessence of the
+child-pig's yet pure food--the lean, no lean, but a kind of animal
+manna--or, rather, fat and lean (if it must be so) so blended and running
+into each other, that both together make but one ambrosian result,
+or common substance.
+
+Behold him, while he is doing--it seemeth rather a refreshing warmth,
+then a scorching heat, that he is so passive to. How equably he twirleth
+round the string!--Now he is just done. To see the extreme sensibility
+of that tender age, he hath wept out his pretty eyes--radiant
+jellies--shooting stars--
+
+See him in the dish, his second cradle, how meek he lieth!--wouldst
+thou have had this innocent grow up to the grossness and indocility
+which too often accompany maturer swinehood? Ten to one he would have
+proved a glutton, a sloven, an obstinate, disagreeable animal--wallowing
+in all manner of filthy conversation--from these sins he is happily
+snatched away--
+
+ Ere sin could blight, or sorrow fade,
+ Death came with timely care--
+
+his memory is odoriferous--no clown curseth, while his stomach half
+rejecteth, the rank bacon--no coalheaver bolteth him in reeking
+sausages--he hath a fair sepulchre in the grateful stomach of the
+judicious epicure--and for such a tomb might be content to die.
+
+[Illustration: YE JUDGE SPECULATETH.]
+
+He is the best of sapors. Pineapple is great. She is indeed almost too
+transcendent--a delight, if not sinful, yet so like to sinning, that
+really a tender-conscienced person would do well to pause--too ravishing
+for mortal taste, she woundeth and excoriateth the lips that approach
+her--like lover's kisses, she biteth--she is a pleasure bordering on
+pain from the fierceness and insanity of her relish--but she stoppeth
+at the palate--she meddleth not with the appetite--and the coarsest
+hunger might barter her consistently for a mutton chop.
+
+Pig--let me speak his praise--is no less provocative of the appetite,
+than he is satisfactory to the criticalness of the censorious palate.
+The strong man may batten on him, and the weakling refuseth not his
+mild juices.
+
+Unlike to mankind's mixed characters, a bundle of virtues and vices,
+inexplicably intertwisted, and not to be unravelled without hazard, he
+is--good throughout. No part of him is better or worse than another. He
+helpeth, as far as his little means extend, all around. He is the least
+envious of banquets. He is all neighbors' fare.
+
+[Illustration: YE SAGE MAKETH A DISCOVERY.]
+
+I am one of those, who freely and ungrudgingly impart a share of the
+good things of this life which fall to their lot (few as mine are in
+this kind) to a friend. I protest I take as great an interest in my
+friend's pleasures, his relishes, and proper satisfactions, as in mine
+own. "Presents," I often say, "endear Absents." Hares, pheasants,
+partridges, snipes, barn-door chickens (those "tame villatic fowl"),
+capons, plovers, brawn, barrels of oysters, I dispense as freely as I
+receive them. I love to taste them, as it were, upon the tongue of my
+friend. But a stop must be put somewhere. One would not, like Lear, "give
+everything." I make my stand upon pig. Methinks it is an ingratitude to
+the Giver of all good flavours, to extra-domiciliate, or send out of the
+house, slightingly (under pretext of friendship, or I know not what),
+a blessing so particularly adapted, predestined, I may say, to my
+individual palate--It argues an insensibility.
+
+[Illustration: YE PIG TWIRLETH.]
+
+I remember a touch of conscience in this kind at school. My good old
+aunt, who never parted from me at the end of a holiday without stuffing
+a sweetmeat, or some nice thing, into my pocket, had dismissed me one
+evening with a smoking plum-cake, fresh from the oven. In my way to
+school (it was over London Bridge) a gray-headed old beggar saluted me
+(I have no doubt at this time of day that he was a counterfeit). I had
+no pence to console him with, and in the vanity of self-denial, and the
+very coxcombry of charity, schoolboy-like, I made him a present of--the
+whole cake! I walked on a little, buoyed up, as one is on such occasions,
+with a sweet soothing of self-satisfaction; but before I had got to the
+end of the bridge, my better feelings returned, and I burst into tears,
+thinking how ungrateful I had been to my good aunt, to go and give her
+good gift away to a stranger, that I had never seen before, and who might
+be a bad man for aught I knew; and then I thought of the pleasure my aunt
+would be taking in thinking that I--I myself, and not another--would eat
+her nice cake--and what should I say to her the next time I saw her--how
+naughty I was to part with her pretty present--and the odour of that
+spicy cake came back upon my recollection, and the pleasure and the
+curiosity I had taken in seeing her make it, and her joy when she sent
+it to the oven, and how disappointed she would feel that I had never had
+a bit of it in my mouth at last--and I blamed my impertinent spirit of
+almsgiving, and out-of-place hypocrisy of goodness, and above all I
+wished never to see the face again of that insiduous, good-for-nothing,
+old gray impostor.
+
+Our ancestors were nice in their method of sacrificing these tender
+victims. We read of pigs whipt to death with something of a shock, as
+we hear of any other obsolete custom. The age of discipline is gone by,
+or it would be curious to inquire (in a philosophical light merely)
+what effect this process might have towards intenerating and dulcifying
+a substance, naturally so mild and dulcet as the flesh of young pigs. It
+looks like refining a violet. Yet we should be cautious, while we condemn
+the inhumanity, how we censure the wisdom of the practice. It might
+impart a gusto--
+
+[Illustration: YE AROMATIC PIG.]
+
+I remember an hypothesis, argued upon by the young students, when I was
+at St. Omer's, and maintained with much learning and pleasantry on both
+sides, "Whether, supposing that the flavor of a pig who obtained his
+death by whipping (_per flagellationem extremam_) superadded a pleasure
+upon the palate of a man more intense than any possible suffering we
+can conceive in the animal, is man justified in using that method of
+putting the animal to death?" I forget the decision.
+
+His sauce should be considered. Decidedly, a few bread crumbs, done up
+with his liver and brains, and a dash of mild sage. But, banish, dear
+Mrs. Cook, I beseech you, the whole onion tribe. Barbecue your whole hogs
+to your palate, steep them in shalots, stuff them out with plantations
+of the rank and guilty garlic; you cannot poison them, or make them
+stronger than they are--but consider, he is a weakling--a flower.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Dissertation upon Roast Pig, by Charles Lamb
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43566 ***
diff --git a/43566-8.txt b/43566-8.txt
deleted file mode 100644
index 23f0289..0000000
--- a/43566-8.txt
+++ /dev/null
@@ -1,720 +0,0 @@
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Dissertation upon Roast Pig, by Charles Lamb
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: A Dissertation upon Roast Pig
-
-Author: Charles Lamb
-
-Illustrator: L. J. Bridgman
-
-Release Date: August 26, 2013 [EBook #43566]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DISSERTATION UPON ROAST PIG ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images generously made available by The
-Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: CHARLES LAMB.]
-
-
-
-
-
-
-A DISSERTATION UPON ROAST PIG
-
-BY CHARLES LAMB
-
-_Illustrated by L. J. Bridgman_
-
-
- BOSTON
- D. LOTHROP COMPANY
- FRANKLIN AND HAWLEY STREETS
-
-
-
- COPYRIGHT, 1888
- BY
- D. LOTHROP COMPANY.
-
-
-PRESSWORK BY BERWICK & SMITH, BOSTON.
-
-
-[Illustration: YE DELIGHTFUL PIG.]
-
-
-[Illustration: BO-BO PLAYETH WITH FIRE.]
-
-
-
-
-UPON ROAST PIG
-
-
-Mankind, says a Chinese manuscript, which my friend M. was obliging enough
-to read and explain to me, for the first seventy thousand ages ate their
-meat raw, clawing or biting it from the living animal, just as they do in
-Abyssinia to this day. This period is not obscurely hinted at by their
-great Confucius in the second chapter of his Mundane Mutations, where
-he designates a kind of golden age by the term Cho-fang, literally the
-Cooks' holiday. The manuscript goes on to say, that the art of roasting,
-or rather broiling (which I take to be the elder brother) was accidentally
-discovered in the manner following: The swineherd, Ho-ti, having gone
-out in the woods one morning, as his manner was, to collect masts for
-his hogs, left his cottage in the care of his eldest son Bo-bo, a great
-lubberly boy, who being fond of playing with fire, as younkers of his
-age commonly are, let some sparks escape into a bundle of straw, which
-kindling quickly, spread the conflagration over every part of their
-poor mansion, till it was reduced to ashes. Together with the cottage,
-(a sorry antediluvian makeshift of a building, you may think it),
-what was of much more importance, a fine litter of new-farrowed pigs,
-no less than nine in number, perished. China pigs had been esteemed a
-luxury all over the East, from the remotest periods that we read of.
-Bo-bo was in the utmost consternation, as you may think, not so much for
-the sake of the tenement, which his father and he could easily build
-up again with a few dry branches, and the labour of an hour or two,
-at any time, as for the loss of the pigs. While he was thinking what
-he should say to his father, and wringing his hands over the smoking
-remnants of one of those untimely sufferers, an odour assailed his
-nostrils, unlike any scent which he had before experienced. What could
-it proceed from?--not from the burnt cottage--he had smelt that smell
-before--indeed this was by no means the first accident of the kind which
-had occured through the negligence of this unlucky young firebrand.
-Much less did it resemble that of any known herb, weed, or flower.
-A premonitory moistening at the same time overflowed his nether lip.
-He knew not what to think. He next stooped down to feel the pig, if there
-were any signs of life in it. He burnt his fingers, and to cool them
-he applied them in his booby fashion to his mouth. Some of the crumbs
-of the scorched skin had come away with his fingers, and for the first
-time in his life (in the world's life indeed, for before him no man
-had known it) he tasted--_crackling_! Again he felt and fumbled at the
-pig. It did not burn him so much now, still he licked his finger from a
-sort of habit. The truth at length broke into his slow understanding,
-that it was the pig that smelt so, and the pig that tasted so delicious;
-and surrendering himself up to the newborn pleasure, he fell to tearing
-up whole handfuls of the scorched skin with the flesh next it, and
-was cramming it down his throat in his beastly fashion, when his sire
-entered amid the smoking rafters, armed with retributory cudgel, and
-finding how affairs stood, began to rain blows upon the young rogue's
-shoulders, as thick as hailstones, which Bo-bo heeded not any more than
-if they had been flies. The tickling pleasure which he experienced in
-his lower regions, had rendered him quite callous to any inconveniences
-he might feel in those remote quarters. His father might lay on, but he
-could not beat him from his pig, till he had fairly made an end of it,
-when, becoming a little more sensible of his situation, something like
-the following dialogue ensued:
-
-[Illustration: YE FIRST TASTE.]
-
-"You graceless whelp, what have you got there devouring? Is it not enough
-that you have burnt me down three houses with your dog's tricks, and
-be hanged to you, but you must be eating fire, and I know not what--what
-have you got there, I say?"
-
-"O father, the pig, the pig! do come and taste how nice the burnt pig
-eats."
-
-The ears of Ho-ti tingled with horror. He cursed his son, and he cursed
-himself that ever he should beget a son that should eat burnt pig.
-
-Bo-bo, whose scent was wonderfully sharpened since morning, soon raked
-out another pig, and fairly rending it asunder, thrust the lesser half
-by main force into the fists of Ho-ti, still shouting out, "Eat, eat,
-eat the burnt pig, father, only taste--O Lord,"--with such-like barbarous
-ejaculations, cramming all the while as if he would choke.
-
-[Illustration: HO-TI BEATETH HIS SON.]
-
-Ho-ti trembled every joint while he grasped the abominable things
-wavering whether he should not put his son to death for an unnatural
-young monster, when the crackling scorching his fingers, as it had
-done his son's, and applying the same remedy to them, he in his turn
-tasted some of its flavour, which, make what sour mouths he would for
-a pretence, proved not altogether displeasing to him. In conclusion
-(for the manuscript here is a little tedious) both father and son fairly
-sat down to the mess, and never left off till they had despatched all
-that remained of the litter.
-
-Bo-bo was strictly enjoined not to let the secret escape, for the
-neighbors would certainly have stoned them for a couple of abominable
-wretches, who could think of improving upon the good meat which God had
-sent them. Nevertheless, strange stories got about. It was observed that
-Ho-ti's cottage was burnt down now more frequently than ever. Nothing
-but fires from this time forward. Some would break out in broad day,
-others in the night-time. As often as the sow farrowed, so sure was
-the house of Ho-ti to be in a blaze; and Ho-ti himself, which was the
-more remarkable, instead of chastising his son, seemed to grow more
-indulgent to him than ever. At length they were watched, the terrible
-mystery discovered, and father and son summoned to take their trial
-at Pekin, than an inconsiderable assize town. Evidence was given,
-the obnoxious food itself produced in court, and verdict about to be
-pronounced, when the foreman of the jury begged that some of the burnt
-pig, of which the culprits stood accused, might be handed into the box.
-He handled it, and they all handled it, and burning their fingers,
-as Bo-bo and his father had done before them, and nature prompting to
-each of them the same remedy, against the face of all the facts, and
-the clearest charge which judge had ever given,--to the surprise of the
-whole court, townsfolk, strangers, reporters, and all present--without
-leaving the box, or any manner of consultation whatever, they brought
-in a simultaneous verdict of Not Guilty.
-
-[Illustration: YE FAMILY REJOICETH.]
-
-The judge, who was a shrewd fellow, winked at the manifest iniquity
-of the decision; and, when the court was dismissed, went privily, and
-bought up all the pigs that could be had for love or money. In a few days
-his Lordship's town house was observed to be on fire. The thing took
-wing, and now there was nothing to be seen but fires in every direction.
-Fuel and pigs grew enormously dear all over the district. The insurance
-offices one and all shut up shop. People built slighter and slighter
-every day, until it was feared that the very science of architecture would
-in no long time be lost to the world. Thus this custom of firing houses
-continued, till in process of time, says my manuscript, a sage arose,
-like our Locke, who made a discovery, that the flesh of swine, or indeed
-of any other animal, might be cooked (_burnt_, as they call it) without
-the necessity of consuming a whole house to dress it. Then first began
-the rude form of a gridiron. Roasting by the string, or spit, came in a
-century or two later, I forget in whose dynasty. By such slow degrees,
-concludes the manuscript, do the most useful, and seemingly the most
-obvious arts, make their way among mankind.
-
-[Illustration: YE MYSTERY IS SOLVED.]
-
-Without placing too implicit faith in the account above given, it must
-be agreed, that if a worthy pretext for so dangerous an experiment as
-setting houses on fire (especially in these days) could be assigned in
-favour of any culinary object, that pretext and excuse might be found
-in roast pig.
-
-Of all the delicacies in the whole _mundus edibilis_, I will maintain
-it to be the most delicate--_princeps obsoniorum_.
-
-I speak not of your grown porkers--things between pig and pork--those
-hobbydehoys--but a young and tender suckling--under a moon old--guiltless
-as yet of the sty--with no original speck of the _amor immunditiæ_, the
-hereditary failing of the first parent, yet manifest--his voice as yet
-not broken, but something between a childish treble, and a grumble--the
-mild forerunner, or _præludium_, of a grunt.
-
-_He must be roasted._ I am not ignorant that our ancestors ate them
-seethed, or boiled--but what a sacrifice of the exterior tegument!
-
-[Illustration: YE JURY GIVETH ITS VERDICT.]
-
-There is no flavour comparable, I will contend, to that of the crisp,
-tawny, well-watched, not over-roasted, _crackling_, as it is well
-called--the very teeth are invited to their share of the pleasure at
-this banquet in overcoming the coy, brittle resistance--with the adhesive
-oleaginous--O call it not fat--but an indefiable sweetness growing up
-to it--the tender blossoming of fat--fat cropped in the bud--taken in
-the shoot--in the first innocence--the cream and quintessence of the
-child-pig's yet pure food--the lean, no lean, but a kind of animal
-manna--or, rather, fat and lean (if it must be so) so blended and running
-into each other, that both together make but one ambrosian result,
-or common substance.
-
-Behold him, while he is doing--it seemeth rather a refreshing warmth,
-then a scorching heat, that he is so passive to. How equably he twirleth
-round the string!--Now he is just done. To see the extreme sensibility
-of that tender age, he hath wept out his pretty eyes--radiant
-jellies--shooting stars--
-
-See him in the dish, his second cradle, how meek he lieth!--wouldst
-thou have had this innocent grow up to the grossness and indocility
-which too often accompany maturer swinehood? Ten to one he would have
-proved a glutton, a sloven, an obstinate, disagreeable animal--wallowing
-in all manner of filthy conversation--from these sins he is happily
-snatched away--
-
- Ere sin could blight, or sorrow fade,
- Death came with timely care--
-
-his memory is odoriferous--no clown curseth, while his stomach half
-rejecteth, the rank bacon--no coalheaver bolteth him in reeking
-sausages--he hath a fair sepulchre in the grateful stomach of the
-judicious epicure--and for such a tomb might be content to die.
-
-[Illustration: YE JUDGE SPECULATETH.]
-
-He is the best of sapors. Pineapple is great. She is indeed almost too
-transcendent--a delight, if not sinful, yet so like to sinning, that
-really a tender-conscienced person would do well to pause--too ravishing
-for mortal taste, she woundeth and excoriateth the lips that approach
-her--like lover's kisses, she biteth--she is a pleasure bordering on
-pain from the fierceness and insanity of her relish--but she stoppeth
-at the palate--she meddleth not with the appetite--and the coarsest
-hunger might barter her consistently for a mutton chop.
-
-Pig--let me speak his praise--is no less provocative of the appetite,
-than he is satisfactory to the criticalness of the censorious palate.
-The strong man may batten on him, and the weakling refuseth not his
-mild juices.
-
-Unlike to mankind's mixed characters, a bundle of virtues and vices,
-inexplicably intertwisted, and not to be unravelled without hazard, he
-is--good throughout. No part of him is better or worse than another. He
-helpeth, as far as his little means extend, all around. He is the least
-envious of banquets. He is all neighbors' fare.
-
-[Illustration: YE SAGE MAKETH A DISCOVERY.]
-
-I am one of those, who freely and ungrudgingly impart a share of the
-good things of this life which fall to their lot (few as mine are in
-this kind) to a friend. I protest I take as great an interest in my
-friend's pleasures, his relishes, and proper satisfactions, as in mine
-own. "Presents," I often say, "endear Absents." Hares, pheasants,
-partridges, snipes, barn-door chickens (those "tame villatic fowl"),
-capons, plovers, brawn, barrels of oysters, I dispense as freely as I
-receive them. I love to taste them, as it were, upon the tongue of my
-friend. But a stop must be put somewhere. One would not, like Lear, "give
-everything." I make my stand upon pig. Methinks it is an ingratitude to
-the Giver of all good flavours, to extra-domiciliate, or send out of the
-house, slightingly (under pretext of friendship, or I know not what),
-a blessing so particularly adapted, predestined, I may say, to my
-individual palate--It argues an insensibility.
-
-[Illustration: YE PIG TWIRLETH.]
-
-I remember a touch of conscience in this kind at school. My good old
-aunt, who never parted from me at the end of a holiday without stuffing
-a sweetmeat, or some nice thing, into my pocket, had dismissed me one
-evening with a smoking plum-cake, fresh from the oven. In my way to
-school (it was over London Bridge) a gray-headed old beggar saluted me
-(I have no doubt at this time of day that he was a counterfeit). I had
-no pence to console him with, and in the vanity of self-denial, and the
-very coxcombry of charity, schoolboy-like, I made him a present of--the
-whole cake! I walked on a little, buoyed up, as one is on such occasions,
-with a sweet soothing of self-satisfaction; but before I had got to the
-end of the bridge, my better feelings returned, and I burst into tears,
-thinking how ungrateful I had been to my good aunt, to go and give her
-good gift away to a stranger, that I had never seen before, and who might
-be a bad man for aught I knew; and then I thought of the pleasure my aunt
-would be taking in thinking that I--I myself, and not another--would eat
-her nice cake--and what should I say to her the next time I saw her--how
-naughty I was to part with her pretty present--and the odour of that
-spicy cake came back upon my recollection, and the pleasure and the
-curiosity I had taken in seeing her make it, and her joy when she sent
-it to the oven, and how disappointed she would feel that I had never had
-a bit of it in my mouth at last--and I blamed my impertinent spirit of
-almsgiving, and out-of-place hypocrisy of goodness, and above all I
-wished never to see the face again of that insiduous, good-for-nothing,
-old gray impostor.
-
-Our ancestors were nice in their method of sacrificing these tender
-victims. We read of pigs whipt to death with something of a shock, as
-we hear of any other obsolete custom. The age of discipline is gone by,
-or it would be curious to inquire (in a philosophical light merely)
-what effect this process might have towards intenerating and dulcifying
-a substance, naturally so mild and dulcet as the flesh of young pigs. It
-looks like refining a violet. Yet we should be cautious, while we condemn
-the inhumanity, how we censure the wisdom of the practice. It might
-impart a gusto--
-
-[Illustration: YE AROMATIC PIG.]
-
-I remember an hypothesis, argued upon by the young students, when I was
-at St. Omer's, and maintained with much learning and pleasantry on both
-sides, "Whether, supposing that the flavor of a pig who obtained his
-death by whipping (_per flagellationem extremam_) superadded a pleasure
-upon the palate of a man more intense than any possible suffering we
-can conceive in the animal, is man justified in using that method of
-putting the animal to death?" I forget the decision.
-
-His sauce should be considered. Decidedly, a few bread crumbs, done up
-with his liver and brains, and a dash of mild sage. But, banish, dear
-Mrs. Cook, I beseech you, the whole onion tribe. Barbecue your whole hogs
-to your palate, steep them in shalots, stuff them out with plantations
-of the rank and guilty garlic; you cannot poison them, or make them
-stronger than they are--but consider, he is a weakling--a flower.
-
-
-
-
-
-
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-
-The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Dissertation upon Roast Pig, by Charles Lamb
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
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-
-Title: A Dissertation upon Roast Pig
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-Author: Charles Lamb
-
-Illustrator: L. J. Bridgman
-
-Release Date: August 26, 2013 [EBook #43566]
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-Language: English
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-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images generously made available by The
-Internet Archive)
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<div class="figure">
<img id="coverpage" src="images/cover.jpg" width="400" height="533" alt="Front Cover" />
@@ -352,10 +312,10 @@ it to be the most delicate&mdash;<i>princeps obsoniorum</i>.
<p>
I speak not of your grown porkers&mdash;things between pig and pork&mdash;those
hobbydehoys&mdash;but a young and tender suckling&mdash;under a moon old&mdash;guiltless
-as yet of the sty&mdash;with no original speck of the <i>amor immunditiæ</i>, the
+as yet of the sty&mdash;with no original speck of the <i>amor immunditiæ</i>, the
hereditary failing of the first parent, yet manifest&mdash;his voice as yet
not broken, but something between a childish treble, and a grumble&mdash;the
-mild forerunner, or <i>præludium</i>, of a grunt.
+mild forerunner, or <i>præludium</i>, of a grunt.
</p>
<p>
<i>He must be roasted.</i> I am not ignorant that our ancestors ate them
@@ -547,388 +507,7 @@ of the rank and guilty garlic; you cannot poison them, or make them
stronger than they are&mdash;but consider, he is a weakling&mdash;a flower.
</p>
-
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-<pre>
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-End of Project Gutenberg's A Dissertation upon Roast Pig, by Charles Lamb
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+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43566 ***</div>
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-The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Dissertation upon Roast Pig, by Charles Lamb
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
-almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
-re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
-with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license
-
-
-Title: A Dissertation upon Roast Pig
-
-Author: Charles Lamb
-
-Illustrator: L. J. Bridgman
-
-Release Date: August 26, 2013 [EBook #43566]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: ASCII
-
-*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A DISSERTATION UPON ROAST PIG ***
-
-
-
-
-Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed
-Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
-produced from images generously made available by The
-Internet Archive)
-
-
-
-
-
-
-[Illustration: CHARLES LAMB.]
-
-
-
-
-
-
-A DISSERTATION UPON ROAST PIG
-
-BY CHARLES LAMB
-
-_Illustrated by L. J. Bridgman_
-
-
- BOSTON
- D. LOTHROP COMPANY
- FRANKLIN AND HAWLEY STREETS
-
-
-
- COPYRIGHT, 1888
- BY
- D. LOTHROP COMPANY.
-
-
-PRESSWORK BY BERWICK & SMITH, BOSTON.
-
-
-[Illustration: YE DELIGHTFUL PIG.]
-
-
-[Illustration: BO-BO PLAYETH WITH FIRE.]
-
-
-
-
-UPON ROAST PIG
-
-
-Mankind, says a Chinese manuscript, which my friend M. was obliging enough
-to read and explain to me, for the first seventy thousand ages ate their
-meat raw, clawing or biting it from the living animal, just as they do in
-Abyssinia to this day. This period is not obscurely hinted at by their
-great Confucius in the second chapter of his Mundane Mutations, where
-he designates a kind of golden age by the term Cho-fang, literally the
-Cooks' holiday. The manuscript goes on to say, that the art of roasting,
-or rather broiling (which I take to be the elder brother) was accidentally
-discovered in the manner following: The swineherd, Ho-ti, having gone
-out in the woods one morning, as his manner was, to collect masts for
-his hogs, left his cottage in the care of his eldest son Bo-bo, a great
-lubberly boy, who being fond of playing with fire, as younkers of his
-age commonly are, let some sparks escape into a bundle of straw, which
-kindling quickly, spread the conflagration over every part of their
-poor mansion, till it was reduced to ashes. Together with the cottage,
-(a sorry antediluvian makeshift of a building, you may think it),
-what was of much more importance, a fine litter of new-farrowed pigs,
-no less than nine in number, perished. China pigs had been esteemed a
-luxury all over the East, from the remotest periods that we read of.
-Bo-bo was in the utmost consternation, as you may think, not so much for
-the sake of the tenement, which his father and he could easily build
-up again with a few dry branches, and the labour of an hour or two,
-at any time, as for the loss of the pigs. While he was thinking what
-he should say to his father, and wringing his hands over the smoking
-remnants of one of those untimely sufferers, an odour assailed his
-nostrils, unlike any scent which he had before experienced. What could
-it proceed from?--not from the burnt cottage--he had smelt that smell
-before--indeed this was by no means the first accident of the kind which
-had occured through the negligence of this unlucky young firebrand.
-Much less did it resemble that of any known herb, weed, or flower.
-A premonitory moistening at the same time overflowed his nether lip.
-He knew not what to think. He next stooped down to feel the pig, if there
-were any signs of life in it. He burnt his fingers, and to cool them
-he applied them in his booby fashion to his mouth. Some of the crumbs
-of the scorched skin had come away with his fingers, and for the first
-time in his life (in the world's life indeed, for before him no man
-had known it) he tasted--_crackling_! Again he felt and fumbled at the
-pig. It did not burn him so much now, still he licked his finger from a
-sort of habit. The truth at length broke into his slow understanding,
-that it was the pig that smelt so, and the pig that tasted so delicious;
-and surrendering himself up to the newborn pleasure, he fell to tearing
-up whole handfuls of the scorched skin with the flesh next it, and
-was cramming it down his throat in his beastly fashion, when his sire
-entered amid the smoking rafters, armed with retributory cudgel, and
-finding how affairs stood, began to rain blows upon the young rogue's
-shoulders, as thick as hailstones, which Bo-bo heeded not any more than
-if they had been flies. The tickling pleasure which he experienced in
-his lower regions, had rendered him quite callous to any inconveniences
-he might feel in those remote quarters. His father might lay on, but he
-could not beat him from his pig, till he had fairly made an end of it,
-when, becoming a little more sensible of his situation, something like
-the following dialogue ensued:
-
-[Illustration: YE FIRST TASTE.]
-
-"You graceless whelp, what have you got there devouring? Is it not enough
-that you have burnt me down three houses with your dog's tricks, and
-be hanged to you, but you must be eating fire, and I know not what--what
-have you got there, I say?"
-
-"O father, the pig, the pig! do come and taste how nice the burnt pig
-eats."
-
-The ears of Ho-ti tingled with horror. He cursed his son, and he cursed
-himself that ever he should beget a son that should eat burnt pig.
-
-Bo-bo, whose scent was wonderfully sharpened since morning, soon raked
-out another pig, and fairly rending it asunder, thrust the lesser half
-by main force into the fists of Ho-ti, still shouting out, "Eat, eat,
-eat the burnt pig, father, only taste--O Lord,"--with such-like barbarous
-ejaculations, cramming all the while as if he would choke.
-
-[Illustration: HO-TI BEATETH HIS SON.]
-
-Ho-ti trembled every joint while he grasped the abominable things
-wavering whether he should not put his son to death for an unnatural
-young monster, when the crackling scorching his fingers, as it had
-done his son's, and applying the same remedy to them, he in his turn
-tasted some of its flavour, which, make what sour mouths he would for
-a pretence, proved not altogether displeasing to him. In conclusion
-(for the manuscript here is a little tedious) both father and son fairly
-sat down to the mess, and never left off till they had despatched all
-that remained of the litter.
-
-Bo-bo was strictly enjoined not to let the secret escape, for the
-neighbors would certainly have stoned them for a couple of abominable
-wretches, who could think of improving upon the good meat which God had
-sent them. Nevertheless, strange stories got about. It was observed that
-Ho-ti's cottage was burnt down now more frequently than ever. Nothing
-but fires from this time forward. Some would break out in broad day,
-others in the night-time. As often as the sow farrowed, so sure was
-the house of Ho-ti to be in a blaze; and Ho-ti himself, which was the
-more remarkable, instead of chastising his son, seemed to grow more
-indulgent to him than ever. At length they were watched, the terrible
-mystery discovered, and father and son summoned to take their trial
-at Pekin, than an inconsiderable assize town. Evidence was given,
-the obnoxious food itself produced in court, and verdict about to be
-pronounced, when the foreman of the jury begged that some of the burnt
-pig, of which the culprits stood accused, might be handed into the box.
-He handled it, and they all handled it, and burning their fingers,
-as Bo-bo and his father had done before them, and nature prompting to
-each of them the same remedy, against the face of all the facts, and
-the clearest charge which judge had ever given,--to the surprise of the
-whole court, townsfolk, strangers, reporters, and all present--without
-leaving the box, or any manner of consultation whatever, they brought
-in a simultaneous verdict of Not Guilty.
-
-[Illustration: YE FAMILY REJOICETH.]
-
-The judge, who was a shrewd fellow, winked at the manifest iniquity
-of the decision; and, when the court was dismissed, went privily, and
-bought up all the pigs that could be had for love or money. In a few days
-his Lordship's town house was observed to be on fire. The thing took
-wing, and now there was nothing to be seen but fires in every direction.
-Fuel and pigs grew enormously dear all over the district. The insurance
-offices one and all shut up shop. People built slighter and slighter
-every day, until it was feared that the very science of architecture would
-in no long time be lost to the world. Thus this custom of firing houses
-continued, till in process of time, says my manuscript, a sage arose,
-like our Locke, who made a discovery, that the flesh of swine, or indeed
-of any other animal, might be cooked (_burnt_, as they call it) without
-the necessity of consuming a whole house to dress it. Then first began
-the rude form of a gridiron. Roasting by the string, or spit, came in a
-century or two later, I forget in whose dynasty. By such slow degrees,
-concludes the manuscript, do the most useful, and seemingly the most
-obvious arts, make their way among mankind.
-
-[Illustration: YE MYSTERY IS SOLVED.]
-
-Without placing too implicit faith in the account above given, it must
-be agreed, that if a worthy pretext for so dangerous an experiment as
-setting houses on fire (especially in these days) could be assigned in
-favour of any culinary object, that pretext and excuse might be found
-in roast pig.
-
-Of all the delicacies in the whole _mundus edibilis_, I will maintain
-it to be the most delicate--_princeps obsoniorum_.
-
-I speak not of your grown porkers--things between pig and pork--those
-hobbydehoys--but a young and tender suckling--under a moon old--guiltless
-as yet of the sty--with no original speck of the _amor immunditiae_, the
-hereditary failing of the first parent, yet manifest--his voice as yet
-not broken, but something between a childish treble, and a grumble--the
-mild forerunner, or _praeludium_, of a grunt.
-
-_He must be roasted._ I am not ignorant that our ancestors ate them
-seethed, or boiled--but what a sacrifice of the exterior tegument!
-
-[Illustration: YE JURY GIVETH ITS VERDICT.]
-
-There is no flavour comparable, I will contend, to that of the crisp,
-tawny, well-watched, not over-roasted, _crackling_, as it is well
-called--the very teeth are invited to their share of the pleasure at
-this banquet in overcoming the coy, brittle resistance--with the adhesive
-oleaginous--O call it not fat--but an indefiable sweetness growing up
-to it--the tender blossoming of fat--fat cropped in the bud--taken in
-the shoot--in the first innocence--the cream and quintessence of the
-child-pig's yet pure food--the lean, no lean, but a kind of animal
-manna--or, rather, fat and lean (if it must be so) so blended and running
-into each other, that both together make but one ambrosian result,
-or common substance.
-
-Behold him, while he is doing--it seemeth rather a refreshing warmth,
-then a scorching heat, that he is so passive to. How equably he twirleth
-round the string!--Now he is just done. To see the extreme sensibility
-of that tender age, he hath wept out his pretty eyes--radiant
-jellies--shooting stars--
-
-See him in the dish, his second cradle, how meek he lieth!--wouldst
-thou have had this innocent grow up to the grossness and indocility
-which too often accompany maturer swinehood? Ten to one he would have
-proved a glutton, a sloven, an obstinate, disagreeable animal--wallowing
-in all manner of filthy conversation--from these sins he is happily
-snatched away--
-
- Ere sin could blight, or sorrow fade,
- Death came with timely care--
-
-his memory is odoriferous--no clown curseth, while his stomach half
-rejecteth, the rank bacon--no coalheaver bolteth him in reeking
-sausages--he hath a fair sepulchre in the grateful stomach of the
-judicious epicure--and for such a tomb might be content to die.
-
-[Illustration: YE JUDGE SPECULATETH.]
-
-He is the best of sapors. Pineapple is great. She is indeed almost too
-transcendent--a delight, if not sinful, yet so like to sinning, that
-really a tender-conscienced person would do well to pause--too ravishing
-for mortal taste, she woundeth and excoriateth the lips that approach
-her--like lover's kisses, she biteth--she is a pleasure bordering on
-pain from the fierceness and insanity of her relish--but she stoppeth
-at the palate--she meddleth not with the appetite--and the coarsest
-hunger might barter her consistently for a mutton chop.
-
-Pig--let me speak his praise--is no less provocative of the appetite,
-than he is satisfactory to the criticalness of the censorious palate.
-The strong man may batten on him, and the weakling refuseth not his
-mild juices.
-
-Unlike to mankind's mixed characters, a bundle of virtues and vices,
-inexplicably intertwisted, and not to be unravelled without hazard, he
-is--good throughout. No part of him is better or worse than another. He
-helpeth, as far as his little means extend, all around. He is the least
-envious of banquets. He is all neighbors' fare.
-
-[Illustration: YE SAGE MAKETH A DISCOVERY.]
-
-I am one of those, who freely and ungrudgingly impart a share of the
-good things of this life which fall to their lot (few as mine are in
-this kind) to a friend. I protest I take as great an interest in my
-friend's pleasures, his relishes, and proper satisfactions, as in mine
-own. "Presents," I often say, "endear Absents." Hares, pheasants,
-partridges, snipes, barn-door chickens (those "tame villatic fowl"),
-capons, plovers, brawn, barrels of oysters, I dispense as freely as I
-receive them. I love to taste them, as it were, upon the tongue of my
-friend. But a stop must be put somewhere. One would not, like Lear, "give
-everything." I make my stand upon pig. Methinks it is an ingratitude to
-the Giver of all good flavours, to extra-domiciliate, or send out of the
-house, slightingly (under pretext of friendship, or I know not what),
-a blessing so particularly adapted, predestined, I may say, to my
-individual palate--It argues an insensibility.
-
-[Illustration: YE PIG TWIRLETH.]
-
-I remember a touch of conscience in this kind at school. My good old
-aunt, who never parted from me at the end of a holiday without stuffing
-a sweetmeat, or some nice thing, into my pocket, had dismissed me one
-evening with a smoking plum-cake, fresh from the oven. In my way to
-school (it was over London Bridge) a gray-headed old beggar saluted me
-(I have no doubt at this time of day that he was a counterfeit). I had
-no pence to console him with, and in the vanity of self-denial, and the
-very coxcombry of charity, schoolboy-like, I made him a present of--the
-whole cake! I walked on a little, buoyed up, as one is on such occasions,
-with a sweet soothing of self-satisfaction; but before I had got to the
-end of the bridge, my better feelings returned, and I burst into tears,
-thinking how ungrateful I had been to my good aunt, to go and give her
-good gift away to a stranger, that I had never seen before, and who might
-be a bad man for aught I knew; and then I thought of the pleasure my aunt
-would be taking in thinking that I--I myself, and not another--would eat
-her nice cake--and what should I say to her the next time I saw her--how
-naughty I was to part with her pretty present--and the odour of that
-spicy cake came back upon my recollection, and the pleasure and the
-curiosity I had taken in seeing her make it, and her joy when she sent
-it to the oven, and how disappointed she would feel that I had never had
-a bit of it in my mouth at last--and I blamed my impertinent spirit of
-almsgiving, and out-of-place hypocrisy of goodness, and above all I
-wished never to see the face again of that insiduous, good-for-nothing,
-old gray impostor.
-
-Our ancestors were nice in their method of sacrificing these tender
-victims. We read of pigs whipt to death with something of a shock, as
-we hear of any other obsolete custom. The age of discipline is gone by,
-or it would be curious to inquire (in a philosophical light merely)
-what effect this process might have towards intenerating and dulcifying
-a substance, naturally so mild and dulcet as the flesh of young pigs. It
-looks like refining a violet. Yet we should be cautious, while we condemn
-the inhumanity, how we censure the wisdom of the practice. It might
-impart a gusto--
-
-[Illustration: YE AROMATIC PIG.]
-
-I remember an hypothesis, argued upon by the young students, when I was
-at St. Omer's, and maintained with much learning and pleasantry on both
-sides, "Whether, supposing that the flavor of a pig who obtained his
-death by whipping (_per flagellationem extremam_) superadded a pleasure
-upon the palate of a man more intense than any possible suffering we
-can conceive in the animal, is man justified in using that method of
-putting the animal to death?" I forget the decision.
-
-His sauce should be considered. Decidedly, a few bread crumbs, done up
-with his liver and brains, and a dash of mild sage. But, banish, dear
-Mrs. Cook, I beseech you, the whole onion tribe. Barbecue your whole hogs
-to your palate, steep them in shalots, stuff them out with plantations
-of the rank and guilty garlic; you cannot poison them, or make them
-stronger than they are--but consider, he is a weakling--a flower.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-End of Project Gutenberg's A Dissertation upon Roast Pig, by Charles Lamb
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