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diff --git a/44228-h/44228-h.htm b/44228-h/44228-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..720df58 --- /dev/null +++ b/44228-h/44228-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,7106 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Boat-Building and Boating, by Daniel Carter Beard</title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1.25em; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + + .maintitle {font-size: 200%; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;} + .copyright {text-align: center; font-size: 70%;} + .adtitle2 {font-size: 150%; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;} + .adtitle3 {font-size: 110%; text-align: left; margin-top: 2em; text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 3em;} + .author {font-size: 120%; text-align: center;} + .summary1 { text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; margin-left: 8em; margin-right: 5em; font-size: 110%; font-weight: bold; margin-bottom: 1.5em;} + .summary2 {text-align: center; font-size: 110%; font-weight: bold; margin-bottom: 1.5em;} + + .sig {margin-right: 10%; text-align: right;} + .blockquot2 { text-align: justify; + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + .poem {margin-left: 30%; text-align: left;} + .poem2 {margin-left: 15%; text-align: left;} + + img {border: 0;} + .tnote {border: dashed 1px; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} + +.brt {border-right: 2px solid black; border-top: 2px solid black;} +.br {border-right: 2px solid black;} +.brb {border-right: 2px solid black; border-bottom: 2px solid black;} + .unindent {margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + + +hr.chap {width: 65%} + + + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + + + +.blockquot { text-align: justify; + margin-left: 15%; + margin-right: 15%; +} + + +.bbox {border: solid 2px; margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em;} +.bbox2 {border: solid 1px; padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; font-size: 90%;} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold; font-size: 90%;} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.figleft { + float: left; + clear: left; + margin-left: 0; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 1em; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +.figright { + float: right; + clear: right; + margin-left: 1em; + margin-bottom: + 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 0; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + + +/* Footnotes */ + .footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align:baseline; + position: relative; + bottom: 0.33em; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: none;} + + hr.full { width: 100%; + margin-top: 3em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + height: 4px; + border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ + border-style: solid; + border-color: #000000; + clear: both; } + </style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44228 ***</div> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Boat-Building and Boating, by Daniel Carter +Beard, Illustrated by Daniel Carter Beard</h1> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10"> + <tr> + <td valign="top"> + Note: + </td> + <td> + Images of the original pages are available through + Internet Archive. See + <a href="https://archive.org/details/boatbuildingboat00bear"> + https://archive.org/details/boatbuildingboat00bear</a> + </td> + </tr> +</table> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 380px;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="380" height="600" alt="cover" /> +</div> +<hr class="chap" /> + + + + + +<div class='maintitle'>Boat-Building<br /> +and Boating</div> +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i_005.png" width="600" height="459" alt="boys on a boat (sort of like a small houseboat)" /> +<div class="caption">Bound for a good time</div> +</div> + + + +<hr class="chap" /> +<div class='bbox'> +<h1>Boat-Building<br /> +and Boating</h1> + +<div class='center'> +By<br /> +<span class='author'>D. C. BEARD</span><br /> +<br /><br /><br /> +With Many Illustrations<br /> +by the Author<br /> +<br /><br /><br /><br /> +NEW YORK<br /> +Charles Scribner's Sons<br /> +1931<br /> +</div> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<div class='copyright'> +<span class="smcap">Copyright, 1911, by</span><br /> +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS<br /> +———————<br /> +Printed in the United States of America<br /> + + +———————<br /> +SPECIAL NOTICE</div> + +<div class='blockquot'><small>All the material in this book, both text and cuts, is original with the +author and invented by him; and warning is hereby given that the +unauthorized printing of any portion of the text and the reproduction +of any of the illustrations or diagrams are expressly forbidden.</small><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 179px;"> +<img src="images/i_007.png" width="179" height="200" alt="embelem: The Scribner Press" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + + +<div class='center'> +AFFECTIONATELY<br /> +DEDICATED TO THE MEMORY OF<br /> +TOM AND HI<br /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p><span class="smcap">This</span> is not a book for yacht-builders, but it is intended for +beginners in the art of boat-building, for boys and men who wish +to make something with which they may navigate the waters +of ponds, lakes, or streams. It begins with the most primitive +crafts composed of slabs or logs and works up to scows, house-boats, +skiffs, canoes and simple forms of sailing craft, a motor-boat, +and there it stops. There are so many books and magazines +devoted to the higher arts of ship-building for the graduates +to use, besides the many manufacturing houses which furnish all +the parts of a sail-boat, yacht, or motor-boat for the ambitious +boat-builder to put together himself, that it is unnecessary for the +author to invade that territory.</p> + +<p>Many of the designs in this book have appeared in magazines +to which the author contributed, or in his own books on general +subjects, and all these have been successfully built by hundreds of +boys and men.</p> + +<p>Many of them are the author's own inventions, and the others +are his own adaptations of well-known and long-tried models. +In writing and collecting this material for boat-builders from his +other works and placing them in one volume, the author feels that +he is fulfilling the wishes of many of his old readers and offering a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span> +useful book to a large audience of new recruits to the army of +those who believe in the good old American doctrine of: "If +you want a thing done, do it yourself." And by doing it yourself +you not only add to your skill and resourcefulness, but, what +is even more important, you develop your own self-reliance and +manhood.</p> + +<p>No one man can think of everything connected with any one +subject, and the author gratefully acknowledges his indebtedness +to several sportsmen friends, especially to his camp-mate, Mr. +F. K. Vreeland, and his young friend, Mr. Samuel Jackson, for +suggestions of great value to both writer and reader.</p> + +<div class='sig'> +<span class="smcap">Dan Beard.</span><br /> +</div> + +<p><small><span class="smcap">Flushing, L. I.</span>, <i>Sept., 1911.</i></small><br /></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="contents"> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='2'><small>CHAPTER</small></td> +<td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">I.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">How to Cross a Stream on a Log</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">II.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Home-Made Boats</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">III.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">A Raft that Will Sail</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">IV.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Canoes</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">V.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Canoes and Boating Stunts</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">VI.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Birch-Bark</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_48">48</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">VII.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">How to Build a Paddling Dory</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">VIII.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">The Landlubber's Chapter</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">IX.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">How to Rig and Sail Small Boats</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">X.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">More Rigs of All Kinds for Small Boats</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">XI.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">Knots, Bends, and Hitches</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_123">123</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">XII.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">How to Build a Cheap Boat</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_139">139</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">XIII.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">A "Rough-and-Ready" Boat</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_154">154</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">XIV.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">How to Build Cheap and Substantial House-Boats</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_163">163</a></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="right">XV.</td> +<td align="left"><span class="smcap">A Cheap and Speedy Motor-Boat</span></td> +<td align='right'><a href="#Page_184">184</a></td> +</tr> +</table></div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span></p> +<h2>Boat-Building and Boating</h2> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/i_015.png" width="600" height="394" alt="boys on boat" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_1"></a>Fig. 1.—The logomaran.</div> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>BOAT-BUILDING AND BOATING</h2> + + + +<hr class="chap" /> +<h2>CHAPTER I<br /> +<small>HOW TO CROSS A STREAM ON A LOG</small></h2> + +<h3>How to Build a Logomaran</h3> + + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> is a widespread notion that all wood will float on water, +and this idea often leads to laughable errors. I know a lot of +young backwoods farmers who launched a raft of green oak logs, +and were as much astonished to see their craft settle quietly to +the bottom of the lake as they would have been to see the leaden +sinkers of their fish-lines dance lightly on the surface of the waves. +The young fellows used a day's time to discover what they might +have learned in a few moments by watching the chips sink when +they struck the water as they flew from the skilful blows of their +axes.</p> + +<p>The stream which cuts your trail is not always provided with +bridges of fallen trees. It may be a river too deep to ford and +too wide to be bridged by a chance log. Of course it is a simple +matter to swim, but the weather may be cold and the water still +colder; besides this, you will probably be encumbered with a +lot of camp equipage—your gun, rod, and camera—none of which +will be improved by a plunge in the water. Or it may so happen +that you are on the shores of a lake unsupplied with boats, +and you have good reasons for supposing that big fish lurk in +some particular spot out of reach from the shore. A thousand +and one emergencies may arise when a craft of some kind will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> +be not only a great convenience, but almost a necessity. Under +these circumstances</p> + + +<h3>A Logomaran</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>may be constructed in a very short time which can bear you and +your pack safely to the desired goal (<a href="#Fig_1">Fig. 1</a>).</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 101px;"> +<img src="images/i_017a.png" width="101" height="259" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_2"></a>Fig. 2.—The notch.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 347px;"> +<img src="images/i_017b.png" width="347" height="464" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_3"></a>Fig. 3.—Top view of logomaran.</div> +</div> + +<p>In the Rocky, Cascade, and Selkirk Mountains, the lakes +and streams have their shores plentifully supplied with "whim +sticks," logs of fine dry timber, which the freshets have brought +down from the mountain sides and which the rocks and surging +torrents have denuded of bark. These whim sticks are of all +sizes, and as sound and perfect as kiln-dried logs. Even in the +mountains of Pennsylvania, where the lumberman's axe years ago +laid waste the primeval forest, where the saw-mills have devoured +the second growth, the tie-hunter the third growth, the excelsior-mills +and birch-beer factories the saplings, I still find good sound<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span> +white pine-log whim sticks strewn along the shores of the lakes +and streams, timber which is suitable for temporary rafts and +logomarans.</p> + +<p>In the North Woods, where in many localities the original +forest is untouched by the devouring pulp-mills, suitable timber +is not difficult to find; so let the green wood stand and select +a log of dry wood from the shore where the floods or ice have +deposited it. Cut it into a convenient length, and with a lever +made of a good stout sapling, and a fulcrum of a stone or chunk +of wood, pry the log from its resting-place and roll it into the shallow +water. Notch the log on the upper side, as shown by <a href="#Fig_2">Fig. 2</a>, +making a notch near each end for the cross-pieces.</p> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Illustrations"> +<tr><td align="left"><a id="Fig_4"></a><img src="images/i_018a.png" width="336" height="147" alt="drawing" /></td> +<td align="left" colspan='2' valign='bottom'><a id="Fig_5"></a><a id="Fig_6"></a><img src="images/i_018b.png" width="335" height="83" alt="drawings" /></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><div class="caption">Fig. 4.—Flattened joint.</div></td> +<td align="center"><div class="caption">Fig. 5.</div></td> +<td align="center"><div class="caption">Fig. 6.</div></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="center" colspan='2'><div class="caption">Matched joints.</div></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The two side floats may be made of pieces split, by the aid of +wooden wedges, from a large log, or composed of small whim +sticks, as shown by <a href="#Fig_3">Fig. 3</a>.</p> + +<p>The floats, as may be seen by reference to <a href="#Fig_1">Figs. 1</a> and <a href="#Fig_3">3</a>, are +shorter than the middle log.</p> + +<p>It is impracticable to give dimensions, for the reason that they +are relative; the length of the middle log depends, to some extent, +upon its diameter, it being evident that a thick log will support +more than a thin one of the same length; consequently if your +log is of small diameter, it must be longer, in order to support +your weight, than will be necessary for a thicker piece of timber. +The point to remember is to select a log which will support you and +your pack, and then attach two side floats to balance your craft and +prevent it from rolling over and dumping its load in the water.</p> + +<p>An ordinary single shell-boat without a passenger will upset, +but when the oarsman takes his seat and grasps his long spoon<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> +oars, the sweeps, resting on the water, balance the cranky craft, +and it cannot upset as long as the oars are kept there. This is +the principle of the logomaran, as well as that of the common catamaran. +The cross-pieces should be only thick enough to be secure +and long enough to prevent the log from wabbling and wetting +your feet more than is necessary.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 335px;"> +<img src="images/i_019a.png" width="335" height="320" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_7"></a>Fig. 7.—The saw-buck crib.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 348px;"> +<img src="images/i_019b.png" width="348" height="422" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_8"></a>Fig. 8.—The staked crib.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>If You Have an Auger and No Nails</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>the craft may be fastened together with wooden pegs cut somewhat +larger than the holes bored to receive them, and driven in +with blows from your axe.</div> + +<p>If you have long nails or spikes the problem is a simple one; +but if you have neither auger, nails, nor spikes you must bind the +joints with rope or hempen twine.</p> + +<p>If you have neither nails, auger, nor rope, a good substitute +for the latter can be made from the long,</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Fibrous Inner Bark</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>of a dead or partly burned tree. For experiment I took some +of the inner bark of a chestnut-tree which had been killed by +fire and twisted it into a rope the size of a clothes-line, then I +allowed two strong men to have a tug-of-war with it, and the +improvised rope was stronger than the men.</div> + + +<h3>How to Make a Fibre Rope</h3> + +<p>Take one end of a long, loose strand of fibres, give the other +end to another person, and let both twine the ends between the +fingers until the material is well twisted throughout its entire +length; then bring the two ends together, and two sides of the +loop thus made will twist themselves into a cord or rope half the +length of the original strand.</p> + +<p>If you nail or peg the parts, use your axe to flatten the joints +by striking off a chip, as in <a href="#Fig_4">Fig. 4</a>.</p> + +<p>If you must lash the joints together, cut them with log-cabin +notches, as in <a href="#Fig_5">Figs. 5</a> and <a href="#Fig_6">6</a>.</p> + +<p>If you have baggage to transport, make</p> + + +<h3>A Dunnage Crib</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>by driving four stakes in cuts made near the end of the centre +log and binding them with rope or fibre (<a href="#Fig_7">Figs. 7</a> and <a href="#Fig_8">8</a>), or by +working green twigs basket-fashion around them, or make the +rack saw-buck fashion, as shown by <a href="#Fig_7">Fig. 7</a>, and this will keep +your things above water.</div> + +<p>A couple of cleats nailed on each side of the log will be of +great assistance and lessen the danger and insecurity of the footing.</p> + +<p>A skilfully made logomaran will enable you to cross any +stream with a moderate current and any small lake in moderate +weather. It is not an especially dry craft, but it won't sink or +upset, and will take one but a short time to knock it together.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER II<br /> +<small>HOME-MADE BOATS</small></h2> + + + +<div class='summary2'>Birth of the "Man-Friday" Catamaran—The Crusoe Raft and +Chump Rafts</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Not</span> so very many years ago I remember visiting, in company +with my cousin Tom, a small lake at the headwaters of the +Miami. High and precipitous cliffs surround the little body of +water. So steep were the great weather-beaten rocks that it +was only where the stream came tumbling down past an old +mill that an accessible path then existed. Down that path Tom +and I scrambled, for we knew that large bass lurked in the deep, +black holes among the rocks.</p> + +<p>We had no jointed split-bamboo rods nor fancy tackle, but +the fish there in those days were not particular and seldom +hesitated to bite at an angle-worm or grasshopper though the +hook upon which the bait squirmed was suspended by a coarse +line from a freshly cut hickory sapling.</p> + +<p>Even now I feel the thrill of excitement and expectancy as, +in imagination, my pole is bent nearly double by the frantic struggles +of those "gamy" black bass. After spending the morning +fishing we built a fire upon a short stretch of sandy beach, and +cleaning our fish and washing them in the spring close at hand, +we put them among the embers to cook.</p> + +<p>While the fire was getting our dinner ready for us we threw +off our clothes and plunged into the cool waters of the lake. Inexpert +swimmers as we were at that time, the opposite shore, +though apparently only a stone's throw distant, was too far off +for us to reach by swimming. Many a longing and curious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +glance we cast toward it, however, and strong was the temptation +that beset us to try the unknown depths intervening. A +pair of brown ears appeared above the ferns near the water's +edge, and a fox peeped at us; squirrels ran about the fallen +trunks of trees or scampered up the rocks as saucily as though +they understood that we could not swim well enough to reach +their side of the lake; and high up the face of the cliff was a dark +spot which we almost knew to be the entrance to some mysterious +cavern.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 678px;"> +<img src="images/i_022.png" width="678" height="305" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_8_5"></a>Fig. 8½.—The Man-Friday.</div> +</div> + +<p>How we longed for a boat! But not even a raft nor a dugout +could be seen anywhere upon the glassy surface of the water +or along its rocky border. We nevertheless determined to explore +the lake next day, even if we should have to paddle astride +of a log.</p> + +<p>The first rays of the morning sun had not reached the dark +waters before my companion and I were hard at work, with axe +and hatchet, chopping in twain a long log we had discovered +near the mill. We had at first intended to build a raft; but +gradually we evolved a sort of catamaran. The two pieces of +log we sharpened at the ends for the bow; then we rolled the +logs down upon the beach, and while I went into the thicket to +chop down some saplings my companion borrowed an auger<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +from the miller. We next placed the logs about three feet +apart, and marking the points where we intended to put the +cross-pieces, we cut notches there; then we placed the saplings +across, fitting them into these notches. To hold them securely +we bored holes down through the sapling cross-pieces into the +logs; with the hatchet we hammered wooden pegs into these +holes. For the seat we used the half of a section of log, the flat +side fitting into places cut for that purpose. All that remained +to be done now was to make a seat in the stern and a pair of +rowlocks. At a proper distance from the oarsman's seat we +bored two holes for a couple of forked sticks, which answered +admirably for rowlocks; across the stern we fastened another +piece of log similar to that used for the oarsman's seat (<a href="#Fig_8_5">Fig. 8½</a>). +With the help of a man from the mill our craft was launched; +and with a pair of oars made of old pine boards we rowed off, +leaving the miller waving his hat.</p> + +<p>Our catamaran was not so light as a row-boat, but it floated, +and we could propel it with the oars, and, best of all, it was our +own invention and made with our own hands. We called it a +"Man-Friday," and by its means we explored every nook in +the length and breadth of the lake; and ever afterward when +we wanted a boat we knew a simple and inexpensive way to +make one—and a safe one, too.</p> + + +<h3>The Crusoe Raft</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is another rustic craft, but it is of more ambitious dimensions +than the "Man-Friday." Instead of being able to float only +one or two passengers, the "Crusoe," if properly built, ought +to accommodate a considerable party of raftsmen. Of course +the purpose for which the raft is to be used, and the number of +the crew that is expected to man it, must be taken into consideration +when deciding upon the dimensions of the proposed craft.</div> + +<p>All the tools that are necessary for the construction of a good +stout raft are an axe, an auger, and a hatchet, with some strong +arms to wield them.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p> + +<p>The building material can be gathered from any driftwood +heap on lake or stream.</p> + +<p>For a moderate-sized raft collect six or seven logs, the longest +not being over sixteen feet in length nor more than a foot in +diameter; the logs must be tolerably straight. Pick out the +longest and biggest for the centre, sharpen one end, roll the +log into the water, and there secure it.</p> + +<p>Select two logs as nearly alike as possible, to lie one at each +side of the centre log. Measure the centre log, and make the +point of each side log, not at its own centre, but at that side of +it which will lie against the middle log, so that this side point +shall terminate where the pointing of the middle log begins (see +<a href="#Fig_9">Fig. 9</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 513px;"> +<img src="images/i_024.png" width="513" height="249" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_9"></a>Fig. 9.—Plan of Crusoe raft.</div> +</div> + +<p>After all the logs needed have been trimmed and sharpened +in the manner just described, roll them into the water and arrange +them in order (<a href="#Fig_9">Fig. 9</a>). Fasten them together with "cross-strips," +boring holes through the strips to correspond with holes +bored into the logs lying beneath, and through these holes drive +wooden pegs. The pegs should be a trifle larger than the holes; +the water will cause the pegs to swell, and they will hold much +more firmly than iron nails.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 521px;"><a id="Fig_10"></a> +<img src="images/i_025a.png" width="521" height="336" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 10.—Skeleton of Crusoe raft.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 509px;"><a id="Fig_11"></a> +<img src="images/i_025b.png" width="509" height="344" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 11.—Crusoe with cabin covered.</div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span></p> + +<p>The skeleton of the cabin can be made of saplings; such as +are used for hoop-poles are the best.</p> + +<p>These are each bent into an arch, and the ends are thrust +into holes bored for that purpose. Over this hooping a piece of +canvas is stretched, after the manner of old-fashioned country +wagons (<a href="#Fig_10">Figs. 10</a> and <a href="#Fig_11">11</a>).</p> + +<p>Erect a "jack-staff," to be used as a flag-pole or a mast to +rig a square sail on.</p> + +<p>A stout stick should be erected at the stern, and a similar +one upon each side of the raft near the bow; these sticks, when +their ends are made smaller, as shown in the illustration (<a href="#Fig_10">Fig. +10</a>), serve as rowlocks.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 522px;"> +<img src="images/i_026.png" width="522" height="121" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_12"></a>Fig. 12.—Sweeps.</div> +</div> + +<p>For oars use "sweeps"—long poles, each with a piece of board +for a blade fastened at one end (<a href="#Fig_12">Fig. 12</a>).</p> + +<p>Holes must be bored through the poles of the sweeps about +three feet from the handle, to slip over the pegs used as rowlocks, +as described above. These pegs should be high enough +to allow the oarsman to stand while using the sweeps.</p> + +<p>A flat stone or earth box placed at the bow will serve as a fireplace.</p> + +<p>If the cracks between the logs under the cabin are filled up +to prevent the water splashing through, and the cabin is floored +with cross-sticks, a most comfortable bed at night can be made of +hay, by heaping it under the canvas cover in sufficient quantities.</p> + +<p>The Crusoe raft has this great advantage over all boats: you +may take a long trip down the river, allowing the current to bear +you along, using the sweeps only to assist the man at the helm +(rear sweep); then, after your excursion is finished you may<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> +abandon your raft and return by steam-boat or train. A very +useful thing to the swimmers, when they are skylarking in the +water, is</p> + + +<h3>The Chump's Raft</h3> + +<p>Its construction is simple. Four boards, each about six feet +long, are nailed together in the form of a square, with the ends +of the boards protruding, like the figure drawn upon a school-boy's +slate for the game of "Tit, tat, toe" (<a href="#Fig_13">Fig. 13</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 266px;"> +<img src="images/i_027.png" width="266" height="254" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_13"></a>Fig. 13.—The chump's raft.</div> +</div> + +<p>All nail-points must be knocked off and the heads hammered +home, to prevent serious scratches and wounds on the bather's +body when he clambers over the raft or slips off in an attempt to +do so (<a href="#Fig_14">Fig. 14</a>).</p> + +<p>Beginners get in the middle hole, and there, with a support +within reach all around them, they can venture with comparative +safety in deep water.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 436px;"><a id="Fig_14"></a> +<img src="images/i_028.png" width="436" height="448" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 14.—A beginner in a chump's raft.</div> +</div> + +<p>The raft, which I built as a model fifteen years ago, is still in +use at my summer camp, where scores of young people have +used it with a success proved by their present skill as swimmers. +But many camps are located in a section of the country<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> +where boards are as scarce as boarding-houses, but where timber, +in its rough state, exists in abundance. The campers in such +locations can make</p> + + +<h3>A Chump's Raft of Logs</h3> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 517px;"><a id="Fig_15"></a> +<img src="images/i_029a.png" width="517" height="261" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 15.—Looking down on a chump's raft in motion.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a id="Fig_16"></a> +<img src="images/i_029b.png" width="550" height="169" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 16.—Side view of chump's log raft.</div> +</div> + +<p>Such a float consists of two dried logs fastened together at each +end by cross-slabs, so as to form a rude catamaran. These rafts +can be towed through deep water by a canoe or row-boat, with +the tenderfoot securely swung in a sling between the logs, where +he may practice the hand-and-foot movement with a sense of +security which only the certainty that he is surrounded by a +wooden life-preserver will give him. <a href="#Fig_15">Fig. 15</a> shows a top view +of the new chump's raft. In <a href="#Fig_16">Fig. 16</a> the two logs are connected +fore and aft by cross-slabs; two more upright slabs are nailed +securely to the side of the logs; notches having been cut in the +top ends of these slabs, a stout cross-piece is securely nailed to +them and the towel or rope sling suspended from the middle of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +the cross-piece. In regard to the dimensions of the raft it is only +necessary to say that it should be wide and long enough to allow +free movement of the arms and legs of the pupil who is suspended +between the logs. In almost every wilderness stream there can +be found piles of driftwood on the shore where one may select +good, dried, well-seasoned pine or spruce logs from which to +make rafts. If such heaps of driftwood are not within reach, look +for some standing dead timber and select that which is of sufficient +dimensions to support a swimmer, and be careful that it is +not hollow or rotten in the core. Rotten wood will soon become +water-logged and heavy. <a href="#Fig_17">Fig. 17</a> shows the position of the +swimmer supported by the chump's sling. If your raft has a +tendency to work so that one log pulls ahead of the other, it may +be braced by cross-pieces, such as are shown at J and K in <a href="#Fig_18">Fig. +18</a>. This figure also shows supports for a suspension pole made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +by nailing two sticks to each side and allowing the ends to cross +so as to form a crotch in which the supporting rod rests and to +which it is securely fastened by nails, or by being bound there by +a piece of rope, as in A, <a href="#Fig_19">Fig. 19</a>. B, <a href="#Fig_19">Fig. 19</a>, shows the crotch +made by resting L in a fork on the M stick and then nailing or +binding it in place. C, <a href="#Fig_19">Fig. 19</a>, shows the two sticks, L and M, +joined by notches cut log-cabin fashion before they are nailed +in place.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 446px;"><a id="Fig_17"></a> +<img src="images/i_030a.png" width="446" height="251" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 17.—Learning to swim by aid of a chump sling.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 201px;"><a id="Fig_19"></a> +<img src="images/i_030a2.png" width="201" height="265" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 19.—Details of saw-buck +supports.</div> +</div> + +<p>Although many summers have rolled around since the author +first made his advent on this beautiful earth, he still feels the call +of the bathing pool, the charm of the spring-board, almost as +keenly as he did when he was wont to swim in Blue Hole at +Yellow Springs, Ohio, or dive from the log rafts into the Ohio +River, or slide down the "slippery" made in the steep muddy +banks of the Licking River, Kentucky.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_18"></a> +<img src="images/i_030b.png" width="600" height="232" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 18.—Another way to rig a chump.</div> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER III<br /> +<small>A RAFT THAT WILL SAIL</small></h2> + +<div class='summary1'>The Raft is Just the Thing for Camp Life—Pleasurable Occupation +for a Camping Party Where Wood is Plentiful—You +Will Need Axes and Hatchets and a Few Other Civilized +Implements</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">First</span> we will select two pine logs of equal length, and, while +the water is heating for our coffee, we will sharpen the butt, or +larger end, of the logs on one side with the axe, making a "chisel +edge," as shown in <a href="#Fig_20">Fig. 20</a>. This gives us an appetite for breakfast +and makes the big fish in the lake, as they jump above the +water, cast anxious looks toward our camp.</p> + +<p>Breakfast finished, we will cut some cross-pieces to join our +two logs together, and at equal distances apart we will bore holes +through the cross-pieces for peg-holes (<a href="#Fig_21">Figs. 21</a>, <a href="#Fig_22">22</a>, and <a href="#Fig_23">23</a>). +While one of the party is fashioning a number of pegs, each with +a groove in one side, like those shown in <a href="#Fig_24">Fig. 24</a>, the others will +roll the logs into the water and secure them in a shallow spot.</p> + +<p>Shoes and stockings must be removed, for most of the work +is now to be done in the water. Of course, it would be much +easier done on land, but the raft will be very heavy and could +never be launched unless under the most favorable circumstances. +It is better to build the craft in the element which is to be its home.</p> + +<p>Cut two long saplings for braces, and after separating the logs +the proper distance for your cross-pieces to fit, nail your braces +in position, as represented by <a href="#Fig_20">Fig. 20</a>.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;"><a id="Fig_20"></a><a id="Fig_21"></a><a id="Fig_22"></a><a id="Fig_23"></a><a id="Fig_24"></a><a id="Fig_25"></a><a id="Fig_26"></a><a id="Fig_27"></a><a id="Fig_28"></a> +<img src="images/i_032.png" width="640" height="705" alt="many drawings" /> +<div class="caption"><span class="smcap">Parts of Man-Friday sailing-raft.</span><br />20.—Logs in place with braces. Figs. 21, 22, and 23.—Struts. Fig. 24.—Pegs. Fig. 25.—Raft +with middle and stern strut in place. Fig. 26.—Springs for dry deck. Fig. 27.—Dry deck. +Fig. 28.—Dry deck in place</div> +</div> + + + +<p>This holds the logs steady, and we may now lay the two cross-pieces +in position, and mark the points on the logs carefully<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a><br /><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +where the holes are to be bored to correspond with the ones in +the cross-pieces. Bore the holes in one log first; make the holes +deep enough and then fill them with water, after which drive +the pegs through the ends of the cross-pieces and into the log. +The grooves in the pegs (<a href="#Fig_24">Fig. 24</a>) will allow the water to escape +from the holes and the water will cause the peg to swell and +tighten its hold on the log and cross-pieces.</p> + +<p>Now bore holes in the other log under those in the cross-pieces +and fill them with water before driving the pegs home, as you +did in the first instance. <a href="#Fig_25">Fig. 25</a> is a Man-Friday raft.</p> + + +<h3>The Deck</h3> + +<p>Before placing the bow in position we must go ashore and +make a dry deck. Selecting for the springs two long green ash +or hickory poles, trim the ends off flat on one side, as shown by +<a href="#Fig_26">Fig. 26</a>. This flat side is the bottom, so roll them over, with the +flat side toward the ground, and if you can find no planks or +barrel staves for a deck, split in half a number of small logs and +peg or nail them on the top side of the springs, as in <a href="#Fig_27">Fig. 27</a>.</p> + +<p>Now all hands must turn out and carry the deck down to the +raft and place it in position, with the flattened sides of the springs +resting on top of the logs at the bow. Prop it up in this position, +and then bore holes through the springs into the logs and peg +the springs down. Over the flat ends place the heavy bow cross-piece, +bore the peg-holes, and fasten it in position (<a href="#Fig_28">Fig. 28</a>).</p> + +<p>In the centre of the bow cross-piece bore several holes close +together and chip out the wood between to make a hole, as square +a one as possible, for the mast to fit or "step" in. With the wood +from a packing-box or a slab from a log make the bench for the +mast.</p> + +<p>Bore a hole through the bench a trifle astern of the step, or +hole, for the mast below. It will cause the mast to "rake" a +little "aft." You have done a big day's work, but a couple of +days ought to be sufficient time to finish the craft.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 526px;"><a id="Fig_29"></a> +<img src="images/i_034.png" width="526" height="624" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 29.—Sail for Man-Friday.</div> +</div> + +<h3>The Sail</h3> + + + +<p>Turn over the raw edges of the old sail-cloth and stitch them +down, as in <a href="#Fig_29">Fig. 29</a>—that is, if you have the needle and thread +for the purpose; if not, trim the cloth to the proper form and two +inches from the luff (the side next to the mast). Cut a number +of holes; these should be stitched like button-holes, if possible, +but if the sail-cloth is tough and we have no needle, we shall have +to let them go unstitched. A small loop of rope must be sewed +or fastened in some other manner very securely to each corner of +the sail.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p> + +<p>From spruce pine or an old fishing-pole make a sprit, and of a +good, straight piece of pine manufacture your mast somewhat +longer than the luff of the sail (<a href="#Fig_29">Fig. 29</a>).</p> + +<p>Through the eyelets lace the luff of the sail to the mast, so that +its lower edge will clear the dry deck by about a foot.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_30"></a> +<img src="images/i_035.png" width="600" height="502" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 30.—Scudding before the wind.</div> +</div> + +<p>Through the hole made for the purpose in the bench (<a href="#Fig_30">Fig. 30</a>) +thrust the mast into the step, or socket, that we have cut in the +bow cross-piece. Tie to the loop at the bottom corner of the sail +a strong line about twelve feet long for a sheet with which to +control the sail.</p> + +<p>Trim the upper end of the sprit to fit in the loop at the upper +outer corner of the sail, and make a notch in the lower end to fit +in the loop of the line called the "snotter."</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span></p> + +<p>Now, as you can readily see, when the sprit is pushed diagonally +upward the sail is spread; to hold it in place make a loop of line +for a "snotter" and attach the loop to the mast, as in Figs. 29 +and 30. Fit the loop in the notch in the lower end of the sprit, +and the sail is set.</p> + + +<h3>The Keelig</h3> + +<p>We need anchors, one for the bow and one for the stern. It +takes little time to make them, as you only need a forked stick, +a stone, and a piece of plank, or, better still, a barrel stave. +Figs. 35 to 39 show how this is made. Down East the fishermen +use the "keelig" in preference to any other anchor.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 550px;"><a id="Fig_31"></a><a id="Fig_32"></a><a id="Fig_33"></a><a id="Fig_34"></a><a id="Fig_35"></a><a id="Fig_36"></a><a id="Fig_37"></a><a id="Fig_38"></a><a id="Fig_39"></a> +<img src="images/i_036.png" width="550" height="451" alt="Figures 31-39" /> +</div> + + + +<p>Make fast your lines to the "keelig" thus: Take the end of +the rope in your right hand and the standing part (which is the +part leading from the boat) in your left hand and form the loop +(A, <a href="#Fig_31">Fig. 31</a>).</p> + +<p>Then with the left hand curve the cable from you, bringing +the end through the loop, as in B, <a href="#Fig_32">Fig. 32</a>; then lead it around +and down, as in C, <a href="#Fig_33">Fig. 33</a>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p> + +<p>Draw it tight, as in D, <a href="#Fig_34">Fig. 34</a>, and you have the good, old-fashioned +knot, called by sailors the "bow-line."</p> + +<p>To make it look neat and shipshape you may take a piece of +string and bind the standing part to the shaft of your anchor or +keelig—keelek—killick—killeck—kelleck—kellock—killock, etc., +as you may choose to spell it.</p> + +<p>A paddle to steer with and two pegs in the stern cross-piece +to rest it in complete the craft; and now the big bass had better +use due caution, because our lines will reach their haunts, and +we are after them!</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER IV<br /> +<small>CANOES</small></h2> + +<div class='summary1'>The Advantages of a Canoe—How to Make the Slab Canoe and +the Dugout—How to Make a Siwash and a White Man's +Dugout</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> are many small freak crafts invented each year, but +none of them has any probabilities of being popularly used as +substitutes for the old models.</p> + +<p>Folding canoes, as a rule, are cranky, but the writer has found +them most convenient when it was necessary to transport them +long distances overland. They are not, however, the safest of +crafts; necessarily they lack the buoyant wooden frame and lining +of the ordinary canvas canoe, which enables it to float even when +filled with water.</p> + +<p>The author owes his life to the floating properties of his canvas +canoe. On one occasion when it upset in a driving easterly +storm the wind was off shore, and any attempt upon the canoeist's +part to swim toward shore would have caused him to have been +suffocated by the tops of the waves which the wind cut off, driving +the water with stinging force into his face so constantly that, +in order to breathe at all, he had to face the other way. He was +at length rescued by a steamer, losing nothing but the sails and +his shoes. Nevertheless, the same storm which capsized his +little craft upset several larger boats and tore the sails from +others.</p> + +<p>The advantages of a good canoe are many for the young navigators: +they can launch their own craft, pick it up when occasion +demands and carry it overland. It is safe in experienced hands<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +in any weather which is fit for out-door amusement. When you +are "paddling your own canoe" you are facing to the front and +can see what is ahead of you, which is much safer and more +pleasant than travelling backward, like a crawfish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 506px;"><a id="Fig_40"></a> +<img src="images/i_039.png" width="506" height="105" alt="Drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 40.</div> +</div> + +<p>The advance-guard of modern civilization is the lumberman, +and following close on his heels comes the all-devouring saw-mill. +This fierce creature has an abnormal appetite for logs, +and it keeps an army of men, boys, and horses busy in supplying +it with food. While it supplies us with lumber for the carpenter, +builder, and cabinet-maker, it at the same time, in the most +shameful way, fills the trout streams and rivers with great +masses of sawdust, which kills and drives away the fish. But +near the saw-mill there is always to be found material for a</p> + + +<h3>Slab Canoe</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>which consists simply of one of those long slabs, the first cut +from some giant log (<a href="#Fig_43">Fig. 43</a>).</div> + +<p>These slabs are burned or thrown away by the mill-owners, +and hence cost nothing; and as the saw-mill is in advance of +population, you are most likely to run across one on a hunting +or fishing trip.</p> + +<p>Near one end, and on the flat side of the slab (<a href="#Fig_40">Fig. 40</a>), bore +four holes, into which drive the four legs of a stool made of a section +of a smaller slab (<a href="#Fig_41">Fig. 41</a>), and your boat is ready to launch. +From a piece of board make a double or single paddle (<a href="#Fig_42">Fig. 42</a>), +and you are equipped for a voyage. An old gentleman, who in +his boyhood days on the frontier frequently used this simple +style of canoe, says that the speed it makes will compare favorably<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> +with that of many a more pretentious vessel. See <a href="#Fig_43">Fig. 43</a> +for furnished boat.</p> + + +<h3>The Dugout</h3> + +<p>Although not quite as delicate in model or construction as +the graceful birch-bark canoe, the "dugout" of the Indians is a +most wonderful piece of work, when we consider that it is carved +from the solid trunk of a giant tree with the crudest of tools, and +is the product of savage labor.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 210px;"><a id="Fig_41"></a> +<img src="images/i_040a.png" width="210" height="158" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 41.</div> +</div> + +<p>Few people now living have enjoyed the opportunity of seeing +one built by the Indians, and, as the author is not numbered +among that select few, he considers it a privilege to be able to +quote the following interesting account given by Mr. J. H. Mallett, +of Helena.</p> + + +<h3>How to Build a Siwash Canoe</h3> + +<p>"While visiting one of the small towns along Puget Sound, +I was greatly interested in the way the Indians built their canoes. +It is really wonderful how these aborigines can, with the crudest +means and with a few days' work, convert an unwieldy log into +a trim and pretty canoe.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 423px;"><a id="Fig_42"></a> +<img src="images/i_040b.png" width="423" height="96" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 42.</div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 664px;"><a id="Fig_43"></a> +<img src="images/i_041.png" width="664" height="486" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 43.—Slab canoe.</div> +</div> + +<p>"One Monday morning I saw a buck building a fire at the base +of a large cedar-tree, and he told me that this was the first step +in the construction of a canoe that he intended to use upon the +following Saturday. He kept the fire burning merrily all that +day and far into the night, when a wind came up and completed +the downfall of the monarch of the forest. The next day the +man arose betimes, and, borrowing a cross-cut saw from a logger, +cut the trunk of the tree in twain at a point some fifteen feet +from where it had broken off, and then with a dull hatchet he +hacked away until the log had assumed the shape of the desired +canoe. In this work he was helped by his squaw. The old fellow +then built a fire on the upper part of the log, guiding the course +of the fire with daubs of clay, and in due course of time the interior +of the canoe had been burned out. Half a day's work with +the hatchet rendered the inside smooth and shapely.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The canoe was now, I thought, complete, though it appeared +to be dangerously narrow of beam. This the Indian soon remedied. +He filled the shell two-thirds full of water, and into the +fluid he dropped half a dozen stones that had been heating in +the fire for nearly a day. The water at once attained a boiling +point, and so softened the wood that the buck and squaw +were enabled to draw out the sides and thus supply the necessary +breadth of beam. Thwarts and slats were then placed in +the canoe and the water and stones thrown out. When the +steamed wood began to cool and contract, the thwarts held it +back, and the sides held the thwarts, and there the canoe was +complete, without a nail, joint, or crevice, for it was made of one +piece of wood. The Siwash did not complete it as soon as he +had promised, but it only took him eight days."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_44"></a> +<img src="images/i_042.png" width="600" height="243" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 44.—The dugout.</div> +</div> + +<p>In the North-eastern part of our country, before the advent +of the canvas canoe, beautiful and light birch-bark craft were +used by the Indians, the voyagers, trappers, and white woodsmen. +But in the South and in the North-west, the dugout takes +the place of the birch-bark. Among the North-western Indians +the dugouts are made from the trunks of immense cedar-trees +and built with high, ornamental bows, which are brilliantly +decorated with paint. On the eastern shore of Maryland and +Virginia the dugout is made into a sail-boat called the buck-eye,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +or bug-eye. But all through the Southern States, from the Ohio +River to the Gulf of Mexico and in Mexico, the dugout is made +of a hollowed log after the manner of an ordinary horse trough, +and often it is as crude as the latter, but it can be made almost +as beautiful and graceful as a birch-bark canoe.</p> + + +<h3>How to Make a White Man's Dugout Canoe</h3> + +<p>To make one of these dugout canoes one must be big and +strong enough to wield an axe, but if the readers are too young +for this work, they are none too young to know how to make +one, and their big brothers and father can do the work. Since +the dugout occupies an important position in the history of our +country, every boy scout should know how it is made.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 502px;"><a id="Fig_45"></a> +<img src="images/i_043a.png" width="502" height="333" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 45.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 390px;"><a id="Fig_48"></a> +<img src="images/i_043b1.png" width="390" height="83" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 48.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 390px;"><a id="Fig_49"></a> +<img src="images/i_043b2.png" width="390" height="78" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 49.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 390px;"><a id="Fig_50"></a> +<img src="images/i_043b3.png" width="390" height="74" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 50.</div> +</div> + +<p><a href="#Fig_44">Fig. 44</a> shows one of these canoes afloat; <a href="#Fig_45">Fig. 45</a> shows a tall, +straight tree suitable for our purpose, and it also shows how the +tree is cut and the arrangement of the kerfs, or two notches, so that +it will fall in the direction of the arrow in the diagram. You will +notice along the ground are shown the ends of a number of small +logs. These are the skids, or rollers, upon which the log will rest +when the tree is cut and felled. The tree will fall in the direction<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> +in which the arrow is pointed if there is no wind. If you have +never cut down a tree, be careful to take some lessons of a good +woodsman before you attempt it.</p> + +<p>When the log is trimmed off at both ends like <a href="#Fig_46">Fig. 46</a>, flatten +the upper side with the axe. This is for the bottom of the canoe; +the flat part should be about a foot and a half wide to extend +from end to end of the log. Now, with some poles for pryers, +turn your log over so that it will rest with the flat bottom on the +skids, as in <a href="#Fig_46">Fig. 46</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 416px;"><div class="caption"><a id="Fig_46"></a>Fig. 46.</div> +<img src="images/i_044.png" width="416" height="178" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption"><a id="Fig_47"></a>Fig. 47.</div> +</div> + + +<p>Next take a chalk-line and fasten it at the two ends of the log, +as shown by the dotted line in <a href="#Fig_46">Figs. 46</a>, <a href="#Fig_47">47</a>, <a href="#Fig_48">48</a>, <a href="#Fig_49">49</a>.</p> + +<p>Snap the line so that it will make a straight mark as shown +by the dotted line; then trim off the two ends for the bow and +stern, as shown in <a href="#Fig_47">Fig. 47</a>. Next cut notches down to the dotted +line, as illustrated in <a href="#Fig_48">Fig. 48</a>; then cut away from the bow down +to the first notch, making a curved line, as shown in <a href="#Fig_49">Fig. 49</a> +(which is cut to second notch). Do the same with the stern, +making duplicates of the bow and stern. The spaces between +the notches amidships may now be split off by striking your axe +along the chalk-line and then carefully driving in wooden wedges. +When this is all done you will have <a href="#Fig_50">Fig. 50</a>. You can now turn the +log over and trim off the edges of the bow and stern so that they +will slope, as shown in <a href="#Fig_44">Fig. 44</a>, in a rounded curve; after which +roll the canoe back again upon its bottom and with an adze and +axe hollow out the inside, leaving some solid wood at both bow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +and stern—not that you need the wood for strength, but to save +labor. When you have decided upon the thickness of the sides +of your canoe, take some small, pointed instrument, like an awl, +for instance, and make holes with it to the required depth at intervals +along the sides and bottom of the canoe. Then take some +small sticks (as long as the canoe sides are to be thick), make them +to fit the holes, blacken their ends, and drive them into the holes.</p> + +<p>As soon as you see one from the inside, you will know that +you have made the shell thin enough. Use a jack-plane to smooth +it off inside and out; then build a big fire and heat some stones. +Next fill the canoe with water and keep dumping the hot stones +in the water until the latter is almost or quite to boiling point. +The hot water will soften the wood so that the sides will become +flexible, and you can then fit in some braces at the bow, stern, and +centre of the canoe. Make the centre brace or seat some inches +wider than the log, so that when it is forced in place it will spread +the canoe in the middle.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER V<br /> +<small>CANOES AND BOATING STUNTS</small></h2> + +<div class='summary1'>How to Build a War Canoe—How to Build a Canvas Canoe—How +to Build an Umbrella Canoe—How Old Shells Can be +Turned into Boys' Boats—Cause of Upsets—Landing from, +and Embarking in, a Shell—How to Mend Checks and Cracks</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> making canoes the Indians used birch bark for the cover, +rock maple for the cross-bars, and white cedar for the rest of the +frame. We will substitute canvas for the birch bark and any old +wood that we can for the rock maple and the white cedar. <i>Real +woodcraft is best displayed in the ability to use the material at +hand.</i></p> + +<p>David Abercrombie, the outfitter, some time ago presented +Andrew J. Stone, the Arctic explorer and mighty hunter, with a +small piece of light, water-proof cloth to use as a shelter tent in +bad weather. But Stone, like the hunter that he was, slept unprotected +on the mountain side in the sleet and driving storms, +and used the water-proof cloth to protect the rare specimens he +had shot. One day a large, rapid torrent lay in his path; there +was no lumber large enough with which to build a raft, and the +only wood for miles around was small willow bushes growing +along the river bank. At his command, his three Indians made +a canoe frame of willow sticks, tied together with bits of cloth +and string. Stone set this frame in the middle of his water-proof +cloth, tied the cloth over the frame with other pieces of string, +and using only small clubs for paddles, he and his men crossed +the raging torrent in this makeshift, which was loaded with their +guns, camera, and specimens that he had shot on the trip.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span></p> + +<p>After reading the above there is no doubt the reader will be +able to build a war canoe with barrel-hoop ribs and lattice-work +slats. In the writer's studio is a long piece of maple, one and +one-half inches wide and one-quarter inch thick, which was left +by the workmen when they put down a hard-wood floor. If you +can get some similar strips, either of oak, maple, or birch, from the +dealers in flooring material, they will not be expensive and will +make splendid gunwales for your proposed canoe. There should +be four such strips. The hard-wood used for flooring splits easily, +and holes should be bored for the nails or screws to prevent cracking +the wood when the nails or screws are driven home. <a href="#Fig_51">Fig. 51</a> +shows the framework (side view) of the canoe; <a href="#Fig_52">Fig. 52</a> shows +an end view of the same canoe; <a href="#Fig_53">Fig. 53</a> shows the middle section, +and <a href="#Fig_54">Fig. 54</a> shows the form of the bow and stern sections. This +boat may be built any length you wish, and so that you may +get the proper proportions, the diagrams from one to five are +marked off in equal divisions. To make patterns of the moulds, +<a href="#Fig_53">Figs. 53</a> and <a href="#Fig_54">54</a>, take a large piece of manila paper, divide it up +into the same number of squares as the diagram, make the squares +any size you may decide upon, and then trace the line, 1-H-10, +as it is in the diagrams. This will give you the patterns of the +two moulds (<a href="#Fig_53">Figs. 53</a> and <a href="#Fig_54">54</a>). While you are looking at these +figures, it may be well to call your attention to the way bow and +stern pieces are made. In <a href="#Fig_63">Fig. 63</a> the pieces Y and X are made +from pieces of a packing-box, notched and nailed together with +a top piece, U, and a brace, V.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_51"></a><a id="Fig_52"></a><a id="Fig_53"></a><a id="Fig_54"></a><a id="Fig_55"></a><a id="Fig_56"></a><a id="Fig_57"></a><a id="Fig_58"></a><a id="Fig_59"></a> +<img src="images/i_048.png" width="600" height="402" alt="Fig. 51-59." /> +</div> +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_048-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 647px;"><a id="Fig_61"></a><a id="Fig_60"></a><a id="Fig_62"></a> +<img src="images/i_050.png" width="647" height="647" alt="Fig. 62. Fig. 60. Fig. 61." /> +<div class="caption">Conventional bow, but made of barrel-heads.</div> +</div> + + + +<p>The other end of the same canoe is, as you may see, strengthened +and protected by having a barrel-hoop tacked over the +stem-pieces, Y, X, U. In <a href="#Fig_64">Fig. 64</a> we use different material; +here the stem-piece is made of a broken bicycle rim, U, braced +by the pieces of packing-box, Y, V, and W. The left-hand end +of <a href="#Fig_64">Fig. 64</a> is made with pieces of head of a barrel, X and U. +The bottom of the stem-piece Y is made of the piece of a packing-box. +The two braces V are parts of the barrel-stave. <a href="#Fig_60">Fig. 60</a> +shows the common form of the bow of a canoe. The stem-pieces<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a><br /><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +X, Y are made of the parts of the head of a barrel, as shown in +<a href="#Fig_62">Fig. 62</a>. To make a stem from a barrel-head, nail the two +pieces X and Y, <a href="#Fig_56">Fig. 56</a>, together as shown in this particular +diagram. Now take another piece of barrel-head, <a href="#Fig_57">Fig. 57</a>, and +saw off a piece, A´, D´, C´, so that it will fit neatly over A, C, D, +on <a href="#Fig_56">Fig. 56</a>. Nail this securely in place, and then in the same +manner cut another piece to fit over the part E, C, B, and nail +that in place. Use small nails, but let them be long enough so +that you may clinch them by holding an axe or an iron against the +head while you hammer the protruding points down, or drive the +nail a little on the bias and holding the axe or iron on the side it is +to come through and let it strike the nail as it comes out and it +will clinch itself. To fasten the stem-piece to the keel use two +pieces of packing-box or board, cut in the form of <a href="#Fig_58">Fig. 58</a>, and +nail these securely to the bow-piece as in Z, in <a href="#Fig_60">Fig. 60</a>. Then +from the bottom side of the keel H, nail the keel-pieces firmly to +the keel as in <a href="#Fig_61">Fig. 61</a>. Also drive some nails from Z to the top +down to the keel, as shown by the dotted lines in <a href="#Fig_60">Fig. 60</a>. The +end view, <a href="#Fig_59">Fig. 59</a>, shows how the two Z pieces hug and support +the stem-piece on the keel H. <a href="#Fig_55">Fig. 55</a> shows a half of the top +view of the canoe gunwales; the dimensions, marked in feet and +inches, are taken from an Indian birch-bark canoe. You see +by the diagram that it is eight feet from the centre of the middle +cross-piece to the end of the big opening at the bow. It is also +three feet from the centre of the middle cross-piece to the next +cross-piece, and thirty inches from the centre of that cross-piece +to the bow cross-piece, which is just thirty inches from the eight-foot +mark. The middle cross-piece in a canoe of these dimensions +is seven-eighths of an inch thick, and thirty inches long between +the gunwales; the next cross-piece is three-quarters of an +inch thick and twenty-two and one-half inches long. The next +one is half an inch wide, two inches thick and twelve inches between +the gunwales. These cross-pieces can be made of the +staves of a barrel. Of course, this would be a canoe of sixteen +feet inside measurement, not counting the flattened part of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> +bow and stern. Now, then, to build the canoe. First take the +keel-piece, H, which is in this case a piece of board about six +inches wide and only thick enough to be moderately stiff. Lay +the keel on any level surface and put the stem-pieces on as already +described, using packing-box for X, U, V, Y, and Z, and +bracing them with a piece of packing-box on each side, marked +W in diagram (<a href="#Fig_51">Fig. 51</a>). Then make three moulds, one for the +centre (<a href="#Fig_53">Fig. 53</a>), and two more for the bow and stern (<a href="#Fig_54">Fig. 54</a>). +Notch the bottom of these moulds to fit the keel and with wire +nails make them fast to the keel, leaving the ends of the nails +protruding far enough to be easily withdrawn when you wish +to remove the moulds. In nailing the laths to the moulds (<a href="#Fig_51">Fig. 51</a>) +leave the heads of the nails also protruding so that they may be +removed. Place the moulds in position, with the middle one in +the exact centre, and the two ends located like those in <a href="#Fig_63">Figs. 63</a> +and <a href="#Fig_64">64</a>. Place and nail gunwale, L, on as in <a href="#Fig_51">Fig. 51</a>, tacking +it to the bow and stern and bending it around to fit the moulds;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> +tack the lattice slats M, N, O, P on to the bow, stern, and +moulds, as shown in <a href="#Fig_51">Fig. 51</a>.</p> + +<p>If your barrel-hoops are stiff and liable to break while bending +and unbending, let them soak a couple of days in a tub of water, +then before fitting them to the form of the canoe make them more +pliable by pouring hot water on them. The barrel-hoop S, R, +at the bow of the canoe, is nailed to the top-piece U, to the inside +of the slats L, M, N, O, P, and to the outside of H. The next +three ribs on each side are treated in the same manner; repeat +this at the other end of the canoe and nail the intervening ribs +to the top of H and to the inside of the slats, following the model +of the boat. Put the ribs about four inches apart and clinch the +nails as already described.</p> + +<p>In the diagrams there is no temporary support for the canoe +frame except the wooden horses, as in <a href="#Fig_51">Fig. 51</a>. These supports +have been purposely omitted in the drawing, as it is desirable to +keep it as simple as possible. Some temporary support will be +necessary to hold the bow and stern-piece in <a href="#Fig_51">Fig. 51</a>. These +supports can be nailed or screwed temporarily to the canoe frame +so as to hold it rigid while you are at work on it.</p> + +<p>After the ribs are all in place and the framework completed, +turn the canoe upside down upon the wooden horses—for a canoe +as large as the one in the first diagram you will need three horses, +one at each end and one in the middle. For a canoe of the dimensions +marked in <a href="#Fig_55">Fig. 55</a>, that is, sixteen feet inside measurement, +you would need about seven yards of ten-ounce cotton canvas, +of sufficient width to reach up over the sides of your canoe. Take +a tape-measure or a piece of ordinary tape or a long strip of manila +paper and measure around the bottom of the boat at its widest +part in the middle from one gunwale (top of side) to the other, and +see that your cloth is fully as wide as your measurement. Fold +the canvas lengthwise so as to find its exact centre and crease it. +With two or three tacks fasten the cloth at its centre line (the +crease) to the stem-piece of the canoe. Stretch the canvas the +length of the boat with the crease of centre-line along the centre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +of the keel; pull it as taut as may be and again tack the centre +line to the stem at this end of the craft. If this has been done +carefully the cloth will hang an equal length over each side of the +canoe. Now begin amidships and drive tacks about two inches +apart along the gunwale, say an inch below the top surface. +After having tacked it for about two feet, go to the other side of +the boat, pull the cloth taut and in the same manner tack about +three feet. Continue this process first one side and then the other +until finished. While stretching the cloth knead it with the hand +and fingers so as to thicken or "full" it where it would otherwise +wrinkle; by doing this carefully it is possible to stretch the canvas +over the frame without the necessity of cutting it. The +cloth that extends beyond the frame may be brought over the +gunwale and tacked along the inside. Use four-ounce tinned +or copper tacks. The canvas is now stretched on every part +except on the high, rolling bow and stern. With a pair of shears +slit the canvas from the outer edge of the bow and stern within a +half inch of the ends of the keel.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_63"></a><a id="Fig_64"></a> +<img src="images/i_052.png" width="600" height="365" alt="Fig. 63-64" /> +<div class="caption">High bows framework made of packing-box and barrel-heads.</div> +</div> + + +<p>Fold the right-hand flap thus made at the left-hand end around<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> +the bow and stern and, drawing tight, tack it down, then fold the +left-hand flap over the right-hand side and tack it in a similar +manner, trimming off the remaining cloth neatly. The five +braces, three of which are shown in <a href="#Fig_55">Fig. 55</a>, may be nailed to the +gunwales of the canoe, as the temporary moulds are removed. +The braces should be so notched that the top ends of the braces +will fit over the top edge of the gunwale and their lower edges +will fit against the sides. Give the boat at least three good coats +of paint and nail the two extra gunwale strips on the outside of +the canvas for guards.</p> + +<p>When it is dry and the boat is launched you may startle the +onlookers and make the echoes ring with:</p> + +<p>"Wo-ach! wo-ach! Ha-ha-ha-hack—wo-ach!" which is said +to be the identical war cry with which the Indians greeted the +landing of our Pilgrim Fathers.</p> + +<p>The reader must not suppose that barrel-hoops are the best +material for ribs; they are but a makeshift, and although good-looking, +servicable canoes have been built of this material from +the foregoing descriptions, better ones may be made by using +better material, such, for instance, as is described in the making +of the birch-bark canoe.</p> + + +<h3>Old Shells</h3> + +<p>Where there are oarsmen and boat-clubs, there you will find +beautiful shell boats of paper or cedar, shaped like darning-needles, +so slight in structure that a child can knock a hole in them, +and yet very seaworthy boats for those who understand how to +handle them. The expensive material and skilled labor necessary +to build a racing shell puts the price of one so high that few +boys can afford to buy one; but where new shells are to be found +there are also old ones, and when they are too old to sell they are +thrown away. Many an old shell rots on the meadows near the +boat-houses or rests among the rafters forgotten and unused, +which with a little work would make a boat capable of furnishing +no end of fun to a boy.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Checks or Cracks</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>can be pasted over with common manila wrapping-paper by +first covering the crack with a coat of paint, or, better still, of +varnish, then fitting the paper smoothly over the spot and varnishing +the paper. Give the paper several coats of varnish, allowing +it to dry after each application, and the paper will become +impervious to water. The deck of a shell is made of thin muslin +or paper, treated with a liberal coat of varnish, and can be patched +with similar material. There are always plenty of slightly damaged +oars which have been discarded by the oarsmen. The use +of a saw and jack-knife in the hands of a smart boy can transform +these wrecks into serviceable oars for his patched-up old +shell, and if the work is neatly done, the boy will be the proud +owner of a real shell boat, and the envy of his comrades.</div> + + +<h3>The Cause of Upsets</h3> + +<p>A single shell that is very cranky with a man in it is comparatively +steady when a small boy occupies the seat. Put on your +bathing clothes when you wish to try a shell, so that you may be +ready for the inevitable upset. Every one knows, when he looks +at one of these long, narrow boats, that as long as the oars are +held extended <i>on the water</i> it cannot upset. But, in spite of that +knowledge, every one, when he first gets into a shell, endeavors +to balance himself by <i>lifting the oars</i>, and, of course, goes over in +a jiffy.</p> + + +<h3>The Delights of a Shell</h3> + +<p>It is an error to suppose that the frail-looking, needle-like +boat is only fit for racing purposes. For a day on the water, in +calm weather, there is, perhaps, nothing more enjoyable than a +single shell. The exertion required to send it on its way is so +slight, and the speed so great, that many miles can be covered +with small fatigue. Upon referring to the log-book of the Nereus +Club, where the distances are all taken from the United States<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> +chart, the author finds that twenty and thirty miles are not uncommon +records for single-shell rows.</p> + +<p>During the fifteen or sixteen seasons that the author has devoted +his spare time to the sport he has often planned a heavy +cruising shell, but owing to the expense of having such a boat +built he has used the ordinary racing boat, and found it remarkably +well adapted for such purposes. Often he has been caught +miles away from home in a blow, and only once does he remember +of being compelled to seek assistance.</p> + +<p>He was on a lee shore and the waves were so high that after +once being swamped he was unable to launch his boat again, +for it would fill before he could embark. So a heavy rowboat +and a coachman were borrowed from a gentleman living on the +bay, and while the author rowed, the coachman towed the little +craft back to the creek where the Nereus club-house is situated.</p> + +<p>In the creek, however, the water was calmer, and rather than +stand the jeers of his comrades, the writer embarked in his shell +and rowed up to the boat-house float. He was very wet and his +boat was full of water, but to the inquiry of "Rough out in the +bay?" he confined himself to the simple answer—"Yes." Then +dumping the water from his shell and placing it upon the rack +he put on his dry clothes and walked home, none the worse for +the accident.</p> + +<p>After ordinary skill and confidence are acquired it is really +astonishing what feats can be accomplished in a frail racing boat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_65"></a><a id="Fig_66"></a><a id="Fig_67"></a><a id="Fig_68"></a><a id="Fig_69"></a><a id="Fig_70"></a><a id="Fig_71"></a><a id="Fig_72"></a><a id="Fig_73"></a><a id="Fig_74"></a><a id="Fig_75"></a> +<img src="images/i_056.png" width="600" height="367" alt="Fig. 65. A Fig. 66. B Fig. 67. C Fig. 68. D Fig. 69. E Fig. 70. F Fig. 71. Fig. 72. Fig. 73. Fig. 74. Fig. 75" /> +</div> + +<div class='caption'> +<div class='center'><span class="smcap">Parts of the Umbrella Canoe.</span></div> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="Umbrella Canoe"> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='3'>A = Plank.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">B =</td><td align="left" class='brt'> Rib</td><td align="left" rowspan='5'> in process of construction.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">C =</td><td align="left" class='br'>Rib</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">D =</td><td align="left" class='br'>Rib</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">E =</td><td align="left" class='br'>Rib</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">F =</td><td align="left" class='brb'>Rib</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='3'>G, G´ = Thimbles.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='3'>H = Plank.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='3'>J and K = Stretcher unfinished and finished.</td></tr> +</table></div> +</div> + +<p>It is not difficult to</p> + + +<h3>Stand Upright In a Shell</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>if you first take one of your long stockings and tie the handles +of your oars together where they cross each other in front of you. +The ends will work slightly and the blades will keep their positions +on the water, acting as two long balances. Now slide your seat +as far forward as it will go, slip your feet from the straps and grasp +the straps with your hand, moving the feet back to a comfortable +position. When all ready raise yourself by pulling on the foot<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a><br /><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +strap, and with ordinary care you can stand upright in the needle-shaped +boat, an apparently impossible thing to do when you look +at the narrow craft.</div> + + +<h3>How to Land Where There Is No Float</h3> + +<p>When for any reason you wish to land where there is no float, +row into shallow water and put one foot overboard until it touches +bottom. Then follow with the other foot, rise, and you are standing +astride of your boat.</p> + + +<h3>How to Embark Where There Is No Float</h3> + +<p>Wade out and slide the shell between your extended legs until +the seat is underneath you. Sit down, and, with the feet still +in the water, grasp your oars. With these in your hands it is +an easy task to balance the boat until you can lift your feet into it.</p> + + +<h3>Ozias Dodge's Umbrella Canoe</h3> + +<p>Mr. Dodge is a Yale man, an artist, and an enthusiastic canoeist. +The prow of his little craft has ploughed its way through the +waters of many picturesque streams in this country and Europe, +by the river-side, under the walls of ruined castles, where the +iron-clad warriors once built their camp-fires, and near pretty +villages, where people dress as if they were at a fancy-dress ball.</p> + +<p>When a young man like Mr. Dodge says that he has built a +folding canoe that is not hard to construct, is inexpensive and +practical, there can be little doubt that such a boat is not only +what is claimed for it by its inventor, but that it is a novelty in its +line, and such is undoubtedly the case with the umbrella canoe.</p> + + +<h3>How the Canoe Was Built</h3> + +<p>The artist first secured a white-ash plank (A, <a href="#Fig_65">Fig. 65</a>), free +from knots and blemishes of all kinds. The plank was one inch +thick and about twelve feet long. At the mill he had this sawed +into eight strips one inch wide, one inch thick, and twelve feet +long (B and C, <a href="#Fig_66">Figs. 66</a> and <a href="#Fig_67">67</a>). Then he planed off the square<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> +edges of each stick until they were all octagonal in form, and +looked like so many great lead-pencils (D, <a href="#Fig_68">Fig. 68</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_76"></a> +<img src="images/i_058a.png" width="600" height="110" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 76.—Frame of umbrella canoe.</div> +</div> + +<p>Mr. Dodge claims that, after you have reduced the ash poles +to this octagonal form, it is an easy matter to whittle them with +your pocket-knife or a draw-knife, and by taking off all the angles +of the sticks make them cylindrical in form (E, <a href="#Fig_69">Fig. 69</a>); then +smooth them off nicely with sand-paper, so that each pole has a +smooth surface and is three-quarters of an inch in diameter.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_77"></a> +<img src="images/i_058b.png" width="600" height="107" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 77.—Umbrella canoe.</div> +</div> + +<p>After the poles were reduced to this state he whittled all the +ends to the form of a truncated cone—that is, like a sharpened +lead-pencil with the lead broken off (F, <a href="#Fig_70">Fig. 70</a>)—a blunt point. +He next went to a tinsmith and had two sheet-iron cups made +large enough to cover the eight pole-ends (G and G´, <a href="#Fig_71">Figs. 71</a> +and <a href="#Fig_72">72</a>). Each cup was six inches deep. After trying the cups, +or thimbles, on the poles to see that they would fit, he made two +moulds of oak. First he cut two pieces of oak plank two feet six +inches long by one foot six inches (H, <a href="#Fig_74">Fig. 74</a>), which he trimmed +into the form shown by J, <a href="#Fig_75">Fig. 75</a>, making a notch to fit each of +the round ribs, and to spread them as the ribs of an umbrella are +spread. He made two other similar moulds for the bow and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> +stern, each of which, of course, is smaller than the middle one. +After spreading the ribs with the moulds, and bringing the ends +together in the tin cups, he made holes in the bottom of the cups +where the ends of the ribs came, and fastened the ribs to the cups +with brass screws, fitted with leather washers, and run through +the holes in the tin and screwed into the ends of the poles or ribs.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_78"></a> +<img src="images/i_059.png" width="600" height="227" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 78.—Canoe folded for transportation. Canoe in water in distance.</div> +</div> + +<p>A square hole was then cut through each mould (K, <a href="#Fig_75">Fig. 75</a>), +and the poles put in place, gathered together at the ends, and held +in place by the tin thimbles. The square holes in the moulds +allow several small, light floor planks to form a dry floor to the +canoe.</p> + +<p>The canvas costs about forty-five cents a yard, and five yards +are all you need. The deck can be made of drilling, which comes +about twenty-eight inches wide and costs about twenty cents a +yard. Five yards of this will be plenty. Fit your canvas over +the frame, stretch it tightly, and tack it securely to the two top +ribs only. Fasten the deck on in the same manner.</p> + +<p>When Mr. Dodge had the canoe covered and decked, with a +square hole amidship to sit in, he put two good coats of paint on +the canvas, allowed it to dry, and his boat was ready for use +(<a href="#Fig_77">Fig. 77</a>). He quaintly says that "it looked like a starved dog, +with all its ribs showing through the skin," just as the ribs of an +umbrella show on top through the silk covering. But this does<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> +not in any way impede the progress of the boat through the +water.</p> + +<p>Where the moulds are the case is different, for the lines of the +moulds cross the line of progress at right angles and must necessarily +somewhat retard the boat. But even this is not perceptible. +The worst feature about the moulds is that the canvas is very apt +to be damaged there by contact with the shore, float, or whatever +object it rubs against.</p> + +<p>With ordinary care the umbrella canoe</p> + + +<h3>Will Last for Years</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>and is a good boat for paddling on inland streams and small +bodies of water; and when you are through with it for the night, +all that is necessary is to remove the stretchers by springing the +poles from the notches in the spreaders, roll up the canvas around +the poles, put it on your shoulder, and carry it home or to camp, +as shown in <a href="#Fig_78">Fig. 78</a>.</div> + +<p>To put your canoe together again put in the moulds, fit the +poles in their places, and the umbrella is raised, or, rather, the +canoe is, if we can use such an expression in regard to a boat.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER VI<br /> +<small>THE BIRCH-BARK</small></h2> + +<div class='summary1'>How to Build a Real Birch-Bark Canoe or a Canvas Canoe on +a "Birch-Bark" Frame—How to Mend a Birch-Bark</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Although</span> the Indian was the first to build these simple little +boats, some of his white brothers are quite as expert in the work. +But the red man can outdo his white brother in navigating the +craft. The only tools required in building a canoe are a knife +and awl, a draw-shave and a hammer. An Indian can do all of +his work with a knife.</p> + +<p>Several years ago canvas began to be used extensively in canoe-building, +instead of birch bark, and it will eventually entirely +supersede birch, although nothing can be found that bends so +gracefully. There are several canvas-canoe factories in Maine, +and the canoes made of canvas have both the symmetry and the +durability of the birches. They are also a trifle cheaper, but if +the real thing and sentiment are wanted, one should never have +anything but a bark craft.</p> + +<p>If properly handled, a good canoe will safely hold four men. +Canoes intended for deep water should have considerable depth. +Those intended for shoal water, such as trout-fishers use, are made +as flat as possible. Up to the time when canoeing was introduced +the materials for building craft of this kind could be found all +along the rivers. Big birch-trees grew in countless numbers, and +clear, straight cedar was quite as plentiful within a few feet of the +water's edge. Now one must go miles back into the dense forests +for such materials, and even then seldom does it happen that two +suitable trees are found within sight of one or the other. Cedar +is more difficult of the two to find.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>The Tree</h3> + +<p>The tree is selected, first, for straightness; second, smoothness; +third, freedom from knots or limbs; fourth, toughness of bark; +fifth, small size of eyes; sixth, length (the last is not so important, +as two trees can be put together), and, seventh, size (which is +also not so important, as the sides can be pieced out).</p> + + +<h3>Dimensions</h3> + +<p>The average length of canoe is about 19 feet over all, running, +generally, from 18 to 22 feet for a boat to be used on inland waters, +the sea-going canoes being larger, with relatively higher bows. +The average width is about 30 inches inside, measured along the +middle cross-bar; the greatest width inside is several inches below +the middle cross-bar, and is several inches greater than the width +measured along said cross-bar.</p> + +<p>The measurements given below are those of a canoe 19 feet +over all: 16 feet long inside, measured along the curve of the gunwale; +30 inches wide inside. The actual length inside is less +than 16 feet, but the measurement along the gunwales is the most +important.</p> + + +<h3>Bark</h3> + +<p>Bark can be peeled when the sap is flowing or when the tree +is not frozen—at any time in late spring, summer, and early fall +(called summer bark); in winter during a thaw, when the tree +is not frozen, and when the sap may have begun to flow.</p> + + +<h3>Difference in the Bark</h3> + +<p>Summer bark peels readily, is smooth inside, of a yellow color, +which turns reddish upon exposure to the sun, and is chalky-gray +in very old canoes. Winter bark adheres closely, and forcibly +brings up part of the inner bark, which on exposure turns +dark red. This rough surface may be moistened and scraped +away. All winter-bark canoes must be thus scraped and made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> +smooth. Sometimes the dark red is left in the form of a decorative +pattern extending around the upper edge of the canoe, the +rest of the surface being scraped smooth.</p> + + +<h3>Process of Peeling</h3> + +<p>The tree should be cut down so that the bark can be removed +more easily.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_79"></a> +<img src="images/i_063a.png" width="600" height="144" alt="Drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 79.—Showing how the butt is kept off the ground.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 233px;"><a id="Fig_80"></a> +<img src="images/i_063b.png" width="233" height="136" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 80.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 128px;"><a id="Fig_81"></a> +<img src="images/i_063c.png" width="128" height="279" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 81.</div> +</div> + +<p>A log called a skid (<a href="#Fig_79">Fig. 79</a>) is laid on the ground a few feet +from the base of the tree, which will keep the butt of the tree +off the ground when the tree is felled. The limbs at the top will +keep the other end off the ground. A space is cleared of bushes +and obstructions where the tree is to fall.</p> + + +<p>After the tree has been cut down, a cut is made in a straight +line (A, B, <a href="#Fig_79">Fig. 79</a>), splitting the bark from top to bottom, and +a ring cut at A and B (<a href="#Fig_79">Fig. 79</a>). When sap is flowing, the bark +is readily removed; but in winter the edges of the cut are raised +with a knife, and a thin, pliant hard-wood knife or "spud" is +pushed around under the bark.</p> + + +<h3>Toasting</h3> + +<p>After the bark has dropped upon the ground the inside surface +is warmed with a torch, which softens and straightens it out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +flat. The torch is made of a bundle of birch bark held in a +split stick (<a href="#Fig_81">Fig. 81</a>).</p> + +<p>It is then rolled up like a carpet, with inside surface out, and +tightly bound, generally with cedar bark when the latter can be +procured (<a href="#Fig_80">Fig. 80</a>).</p> + +<p>If the tree is long enough, a piece is taken off at least nineteen +feet in length, so that the ends of the canoe may not be pieced +out. A few shorter pieces are +wrapped up with the bundle +for piecing out the sides.</p> + + +<h3>The Roll</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is taken on the back in an +upright position, and is carried +by a broad band of cedar +bark, passing under the lower +end of the roll and around in +front of the breast and shoulders +(<a href="#Fig_82">Fig. 82</a>).</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 281px;"><a id="Fig_82"></a> +<img src="images/i_064.png" width="281" height="401" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 82.—Mode of carrying roll.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>Effects of Heat</h3> + +<p>It is laid where the sun will +not shine on it and harden it. +The first effect of heat is to make it pliant. Long exposure to +heat or to dry atmosphere makes it hard and brittle.</p> + + +<h3>The Woodwork</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is as follows:</div> + +<p>Five cross-bars of rock-maple (<a href="#Fig_83">Figs. 83</a>, <a href="#Fig_85">85</a>, and <a href="#Fig_91">91</a>). All the +rest is of white cedar, taken from the heart. The sap-wood +absorbs water, and would make the canoe too heavy, so it is rejected. +The wood requires to be straight and clear, and it is +best to use perfectly green wood for the ribs.</p> + +<p>Two strips 16½ feet long, 1½ inch square, tapering toward either<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +end, the ends being notched (<a href="#Fig_83">Fig. 83</a> A) is a section of the 16½ +foot strip. Each strip is mortised for the cross-bars (see <a href="#Fig_85">Fig. 85</a>). +The lower outside edge is bevelled off to receive the ends of the +ribs.</p> + +<p>The dimensions of the cross-bars (<a href="#Fig_85">Fig. 85</a>) are 12 x 2 x ½ inch, +22½ x 2 x ¾ inch, and 30 x 2 x <small><sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub></small> inch. The cross-bars are placed +in position, and the ends of the gunwales are tied with spruce +roots after being nailed together to prevent splitting. Each +bar is held in place by a peg of hard wood.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_83"></a><a id="Fig_83_5"></a> +<img src="images/i_065.png" width="600" height="213" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Figs. 83 and 83½.—Showing section of canoe amidship and section and shape of gunwale and top view.</div> +</div><div class='tnote'><div class='center'>Transcriber's Note: To see a +larger version of this image, click <a href="images/i_065-big.png">here</a>.</div></div> + +<p>For stitching and wrapping, long, slender roots of spruce, or +sometimes of elm, are peeled and split in two. Black ash splits +are rarely used except for repairing (<a href="#Fig_86">Figs. 86</a>, <a href="#Fig_87">87</a>, <a href="#Fig_88">88</a>).</p> + +<p>Next we need (B, <a href="#Fig_83">Fig. 83</a>) two strips 1 or 1¼ inch by ½ inch, a +little over 19 feet long, to go outside of gunwales, and (C, <a href="#Fig_83">Fig. +83</a>) two top strips, same length, 2 inches wide in middle, tapering +to 1 inch at either end, 1½ inch thick.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_84"></a><a id="Fig_85"></a><a id="Fig_86"></a><a id="Fig_87"></a><a id="Fig_88"></a><a id="Fig_89"></a><a id="Fig_90"></a><a id="Fig_91"></a> +<img src="images/i_066.png" width="600" height="843" alt="Figs. 84-91" /> +<div class="caption">Details of sticking and framework of canoe.</div> +</div> + +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_066-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + +<h3>Ribs</h3> + +<p>About fifty in number (<a href="#Fig_91">Figs. 91</a>, <a href="#Fig_92">92</a>) are split with the grain +(F, <a href="#Fig_92">Fig. 92</a>), so that the heart side of the wood will be on the inner +side when the rib is bent. The wood bends better this way. +They must be perfectly straight-grained and free from knots.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +Ribs for the middle are four inches wide, ribs for the ends about +three inches wide (<a href="#Fig_91">Fig. 91</a> and G, <a href="#Fig_92">Fig. 92</a>), and are whittled down +to a scant half an inch (<a href="#Fig_93">Fig. 93</a>). Green wood is generally used, +and before it has had any time to season. The ribs may be softened<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> +by pouring hot water on them, and should be bent in pairs +to prevent breaking (<a href="#Fig_90">Fig. 90</a>). They are held in shape by a band +of cedar bark passed around outside.</p> + +<p>The ribs are of importance in the shaping of the canoe. The +sides bulge out (<a href="#Fig_91">Figs. 91</a>, <a href="#Fig_92">92</a>). +The shape of the ribs determines +the depth and stability of the +canoe.</p> + + +<h3>Lining Strips</h3> + +<p>Other strips, an eighth of an +inch thick, are carefully whittled +out, with straight edges. They +are a little over eight feet long, +and are designed to be laid inside +on the bark, edge to edge, +between the bark and the ribs. +These strips lap an inch or two +where they meet, in the middle +of the canoe, and are wider here +than at the ends, owing to the +greater circumference of the canoe +in the middle.</p> + + +<h3>Seasoning</h3> + +<p>All the timber is carefully tied +up before building and laid +away. The ribs are allowed to +season perfectly, so that they will keep their shape and not +spring back.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 478px;"><a id="Fig_92"></a> +<img src="images/i_067a.png" width="478" height="326" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 92.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 283px;"><a id="Fig_93"></a> +<img src="images/i_067b.png" width="283" height="322" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 93.<br />Details of ribs, Indian knives and method of +using them.</div> +</div> + + + + +<h3>The Bed</h3> + +<p>Next the bed is prepared on a level spot, if possible shaded +from the sun. A space is levelled about three and a half feet +wide and a little longer than the canoe. The surface is made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> +perfectly smooth. The middle is one or two inches higher than +either end.</p> + + +<h3>Building</h3> + +<p>The frame is laid exactly in the middle of the bed. A small +post is driven in the ground (<a href="#Fig_94">Fig. 94</a>), on which each end of the +frame will rest. Stakes, two or three feet long and about two +inches in diameter, are whittled flat on one side, and are driven +with the flat side toward the frame at the following points, leaving +a space of about a quarter of an inch between the stake and +the frame (<a href="#Fig_94">Fig. 94</a>): One stake an inch or two on either side of +each cross-bar, and another stake half way between each cross-bar. +This makes eleven stakes on each side of the frame. +Twelve additional stakes are driven as follows: One pair facing +each other, at the end of the frame; another pair, an inch apart, +about six inches from the last pair, measuring toward the ends +of the canoe; and another pair, an inch apart, a foot from these. +These last stakes will be nine and a half feet from the middle of +the frame, and nineteen feet from the corresponding stakes at +the other end. Next, these stakes are all taken up, and the +frame laid aside.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_94"></a> +<img src="images/i_068.png" width="600" height="189" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 94.—Showing stakes supporting bark sides; note stones on the bottom.</div> +</div> +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_068x.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + + +<h3>To Soften the Bark</h3> + +<p>Next the bark is unrolled. If it has laid until it has become +a little hardened, it is placed in the river or stream for a day or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +two. It is spread out flat, and laid upon the bed with the gray +or outside surface up. The inside surface is placed downward, +and becomes the outside of the canoe.</p> + +<p>The frame is replaced upon the bark, so that it will be at the +same distance from each side and end of the bed that it was before. +At each cross-bar boards are laid across the frame, and +heavy stones are laid upon them to keep the frame solid and immovable +upon the bark (<a href="#Fig_85">Fig. 85</a>, C). The edges of the bark are +next bent up in a perpendicular position, and in order that it +may bend smoothly slits are made in the bark in an outward direction, +at right angles to the frame. A cut is made close to the +end of each cross-bar, and one half way between each bar, +which is generally sufficient to allow the bark to be bent up +smoothly. As the bark is bent up, the large stakes are slipped +back in the holes which they occupied before, and the tops of +each opposite pair are connected with a strip of cedar bark which +keeps the stakes perfectly perpendicular. At each end it is +necessary to take out a small triangular piece or gore, so that the +edges may come together without overlapping.</p> + +<p>Next twenty-two pieces of cedar, one to two feet long, and +about ½ or ¾ inch thick, are split out, and whittled thin and flat +at one end. This sharpened edge is inserted between the outside +edge of the frame and the bent-up bark, opposite each large +stake. The other end of the chisel-shaped piece is tightly tied +to the large stake outside. By means of the <i>large outside stake</i> +and the inside "<i>stake</i>," so-called, the bark is held in a perfectly +upright position; and in order to keep the bent-up part more +perfectly flat and smooth, the strips of cedar are pushed in lengthwise +between the stakes and the bark, on each side of the bark, +as shown in sectional views (<a href="#Fig_85">Fig. 85</a>, C, D).</p> + +<p>Sometimes, in place of having temporary strips to go on outside +of the bark, the long outside strip (B, <a href="#Fig_83">Fig. 83</a>), is slipped +in place instead.</p> + +<p>It may now be seen if the bark is not wide enough. If it is +not, the sides must be pieced out with a narrow piece, cut in such<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +a way that the eyes in the bark will run in the same direction as +those of the large piece.</p> + +<p>As a general rule, from the middle to the next bar the strip +for piecing is placed on the inside of the large piece, whose upper +edge has previously been trimmed straight, and the two are sewed +together by the stitch shown in <a href="#Fig_86">Fig. 86</a>, the spruce root being +passed over another root laid along the trimmed-off edge of the +large piece of bark to prevent the stitches from tearing out. +From the second bar to the end of the canoe, or as far as may be +necessary, the strip is placed outside the large piece, and from the +second to the end bar is sewed as in <a href="#Fig_87">Fig. 87</a>, and from the end +bar to the end of the canoe is stitched as in <a href="#Fig_88">Fig. 88</a>.</p> + +<p>Next, the weights are taken off the frame, which is raised up as +follows, the bark remaining flat on the bed as before:</p> + +<p>A post eight inches long is set up under each end of middle +cross-bar (<a href="#Fig_85">Fig. 85</a>, D), one end resting on the bark and the other +end supporting either end of the middle cross-bar. Another +post, nine inches long, is similarly placed under each end of the +next cross-bar. Another, twelve inches long, is placed under +each end of the end cross-bar; and another, sixteen and a half or +seventeen inches, supports each end of the frame.</p> + +<p>As the posts are placed under each cross-bar, the weights are +replaced; and as these posts are higher at the ends than in the +middle, the proper curve is obtained for the gunwales. The +temporary strips, that have been placed outside the bent-up +portion of the bark, are removed, and the long outside strip before +mentioned (B, <a href="#Fig_83">Fig. 83</a>) is slipped in place between the outside +stakes and the bark. This strip is next nailed to the frame +with wrought-iron nails that pass through the bark and are +clinched on the inside. This outside strip has taken exactly the +curve of the frame, but its upper edge, before nailing, was raised +so as to be out an eighth of an inch (or the thickness of the bark) +higher than the top surface of the frame, so that when the edges +of the bark have been bent down, and tacked flat to the frame, +a level surface will be presented, upon which the wide top strip<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> +will eventually be nailed. Formerly the outer strip was bound to +the frame with roots every few inches, but now it is nailed.</p> + +<p>The cross-bars are now lashed to the frame, having previously +been held only by a peg. The roots are passed through holes +in the end of the bars, around the outside strip (see right-hand side +of <a href="#Fig_85">Fig. 85</a>). A two-inch piece of the bark, which has been tacked +down upon the frame, is removed at the ends by the cross-bars, +where the spruce roots are to pass around, and the outside strip +is cut away to a corresponding extent, so that the roots, when +wrapped around, will be flush with the surface above.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_95"></a> +<img src="images/i_071.png" width="600" height="130" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 95.—Shows how to describe arc of circle for bow, also ornamentation of winter bark.</div> +</div> +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_071-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + +<p>All the stakes are now removed, and laid away to be ready +for the next canoe that may be built, and the canoe taken upside +down upon two horses or benches, that will keep the craft clear +of the ground.</p> + +<p>The shape of the bow is now marked out, either by the eye or +with mechanical aid, according to the following rule: An arc of +a circle, with a radius of seventeen inches, is described (<a href="#Fig_95">Fig. 95</a>) +having as a centre a point shown in diagram. The bark is then +cut away to this line.</p> + + +<h3>Bow-piece</h3> + +<p>To stiffen the bow, a bow-piece of cedar, nearly three feet long +(<a href="#Fig_96">Fig. 96</a>), an inch and a half wide, and half an inch thick on one +edge, bevelled and rounded off toward the other edge, is needed. +To facilitate bending edgeways it is split into four or five sections +(as in <a href="#Fig_98">Fig. 98</a>) for about thirty inches. The end that remains +unsplit is notched on its thicker edge (<a href="#Fig_96">Fig. 96</a>) to receive the lower +end of an oval cedar board (<a href="#Fig_97">Fig. 97</a>) that is placed upright in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> +bow underneath the tip of the frame. It is bent to correspond +with the curve of the boat, with the thin edge toward the outside +of the circle, and wrapped with twine, so that it will keep its shape. +The bow-piece is placed between the edges of the bark, which are +then sewed together by an +over-and-over stitch, which +passes through the bow-piece.</p> + +<p>A pitch is prepared of +rosin and grease, in such +proportions that it will +neither readily crack in +cold water nor melt in the +sun. One or the other ingredient +is added until by +test it is found just right.</p> + + +<h3>Patching and Pitching</h3> + +<p>The canoe is now placed +on the ground, right side up, +and all holes are covered +on the inside with thin +birch bark that is pasted down with hot pitch. A strip of cloth +is saturated with hot pitch, and pressed into the cracks on either +side of the bow-piece inside, between the bark and the bow-piece +(<a href="#Fig_99">Fig. 99</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 590px;"><a id="Fig_96"></a><a id="Fig_97"></a><a id="Fig_98"></a><a id="Fig_99"></a><a id="Fig_100"></a> +<img src="images/i_072.png" width="590" height="653" alt="drawings" /> +<div class="caption">Figs. 97-100.—Show details of canoe bow.</div> +</div> + +<p>The thin longitudinal strips are next laid in position, edge to +edge, lapping several inches by the middle; they are whittled +thin here so as to lap evenly.</p> + +<p>The ribs are next tightly driven in place, commencing at the +small end ones and working toward the middle. The end ribs +may be two or three inches apart, being closer toward the middle, +where, in many cases, they touch. Usually, they are about half +an inch apart in the middle. Each rib is driven into place with +a square-ended stick and a mallet.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p> + +<p>The ends are stuffed with shavings (<a href="#Fig_100">Fig. 100</a> and "Section" +<a href="#Fig_100_5">Fig. 100½</a>), and an oval cedar board is put in the place formerly +occupied by the post that supported the end of the frame. The +lower end rests in the notch of the bow-piece, while the upper is +cut with two shoulders that fit underneath each side of the frame; +<a href="#Fig_97">Fig. 97</a> shows the cedar board.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 444px;"><a id="Fig_100_5"></a> +<img src="images/i_073.png" width="444" height="205" alt="Drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 100½.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 636px;"><a id="Fig_101"></a> +<img src="images/i_073b.png" width="636" height="284" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 101.<br />Canoe paddles.</div> +</div> + +<p>The top strip is next nailed on to the frame. Almost always a +piece of bark, a foot or more long, and nine or ten inches wide, +is bent and slipped under, between +both top and side strips +and the bark. The ends of this +piece hang down about three +inches below the side strips. +The loose ends of the strips are +bound together, as in diagram, +and the projecting tips of both +strips and bow-piece are trimmed +off close.</p> + +<p>Next the canoe is turned upside +down. If winter bark has +been used, the surface is moistened +and the roughness scraped +off with a knife. Generally the +red rough surface is left in the form of a decorative pattern +several inches wide around the upper edge (<a href="#Fig_95">Fig. 95</a>). Sometimes +the maker's name and date are left in this way.</p> + +<p>Finally, a strip of stout canvas, three or four inches wide, is +dipped in the melted pitch and laid on the stitching at the ends, +extending up sufficiently far above the water-line. All cracks and +seams are covered with pitch, laid on with a small wooden paddle. +While still soft, a wet finger or the palm of the hand is +rubbed over the pitch to smooth it down before it hardens.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Leaks</h3> + +<p>Water is placed inside, and the leaky places marked, to be +stopped when dry. A can of rosin is usually carried in the canoe, +and when a leak occurs, the canoe is taken out of the water, the +leak discovered by sucking, the place dried with a torch of wood +or birch bark, and the pitch applied.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_101_5"></a> +<img src="images/i_074.png" width="600" height="350" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 101½.—From photograph of Indian building a birch-bark canoe.</div> +</div> + +<p>Paddles are made of rock maple, and sometimes of birch and +even cedar. Bow paddles are usually longer and narrower in +the blade than stern paddles (<a href="#Fig_101">Fig. 101</a>).</p> + + +<h3>Bottom Protection</h3> + +<p>Sometimes the canoe is shod with "shoes," or strips of cedar, +laid lengthwise and tied to the outside of the bark with ash splits +that pass through holes in the cedar shoes, and are brought up +around the sides of the canoe and tied to each cross-bar. This +protects the bottom of the boat from the sharp rocks that abound +in some rapid streams.</p> + +<p>All canoes are of the general shape of the one described, +though this is considerably varied in different localities, some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +being built with high rolling bows, some slender, some wider, +some nearly straight on the bottom, others decidedly curved.</p> + +<p>Besides the two paddles the canoe should carry a pole ten feet +long, made of a slender spruce, whittled so as to be about one +and three-fourths inch in diameter in the middle and smaller +at either end, and having at one end either a ring and a spike or +else a pointed cap of iron. The pole is used for propelling the +canoe up swift streams. This, says Tappan Adney, "is absolutely +indispensable." The person using the pole stands in one +end, or nearer the middle if alone, and pushes the canoe along +close to the bank, so as to take advantage of the eddies, guiding +the canoe with one motion, only to be learned by practice, and +keeping the pole usually on the side next the bank. Where the +streams have rocky and pebbly bottoms poling is easy, but in +muddy or soft bottoms it is tiresome work; muddy bottoms, however, +are not usually found in rapid waters.</p> + + +<h3>A Canvas Canoe</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>can be made by substituting canvas in the place of birch bark; +and if it is kept well painted it makes not only a durable but a +very beautiful boat. The writer once owned a canvas canoe +that was at least fifteen years old and still in good condition.</div> + +<p>About six yards of ten-ounce cotton canvas, fifty inches wide, +will be sufficient to cover a canoe, and it will require two papers +of four-ounce copper tacks to secure the canvas on the frame.</p> + +<p>The boat should be placed, deck down, upon two "horses" or +wooden supports, such as you see carpenters and builders use.</p> + +<p>Fold the canvas lengthwise, so as to find the centre, then tack +the centre of one end of the cloth to top of bow-piece, or stem, +using two or three tacks to hold it securely. Stretch the cloth +the length of the boat, pull it taut, with the centre line of the canvas +over the keel line of the canoe, and tack the centre of the other +end of the cloth to the top of the stern-piece.</p> + +<p>If care has been taken thus far, an equal portion of the covering +will lap the gunwale on each side of the boat.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> + +<p>Begin amidships and drive the tacks, about two inches apart, +along the gunwale and an inch below the deck (on the outside). +Tack about two feet on one side, pull the cloth tightly across, +and tack it about three feet on the other side. Continue to alternate, +tacking on one side and then the other, until finished.</p> + +<p>With the hands and fingers knead the cloth so as to thicken +or "full" it where it would otherwise wrinkle, and it will be possible +to stretch the canvas without cutting it over the frame.</p> + +<p>The cloth that projects beyond the gunwale may be used for +the deck, or it may be cut off after bringing it over and tacking +upon the inside of the gunwale, leaving the canoe open like a +birch-bark.</p> + + +<h3>To Paddle a Canoe</h3> + +<p>No one can expect to learn to paddle a canoe from a book, however +explicit the directions may be. There is only one way to +learn to swim and that is by going into the water and trying it, +and the only proper way to learn to paddle a canoe is to paddle +one until you catch the knack.</p> + +<p>In the ordinary canoe, to be found at the summer watering +places, there are cane seats and they are always too high for safety. +A top load on any sort of a boat is always dangerous, and every +real canoeist seats his passengers on the bottom of the boat and +kneels on the bottom himself while paddling. Of course, one's +knees will feel more comfortable if there is some sort of a cushion +under them, and a passenger will be less liable to get wet if he +has a pneumatic cushion on which to sit. No expert canoeist +paddles alternately first on the one side, and then on the other; +on the contrary, he takes pride in his ability to keep his paddle +continuously on either side that suits his convenience.</p> + +<p>The Indians of the North Woods are probably the best paddlers, +and from them we can take points in the art. It is from them +we first learned the use of the canoe, for our open canvas canoes +of to-day are practically modelled on the lines of the old birch-barks.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p> + +<div class='bbox2'> +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="canoeing and illustratiosn"> +<tr><td align="left" rowspan='2'><img src="images/i_077a.png" width="258" height="179" alt="Fig. 102" /> +</td><td align="left" colspan='2'><div class='unindent'>From photographs taken +especially for this book by +Mr. F. K. Vreeland, Camp +Fire Club of America.</div></td><td align="left" rowspan='2'><img src="images/i_077b.png" width="256" height="172" alt="Fig. 102a" /> +</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a id="Fig_102"></a><b>Fig. 102.</b></td> +<td align="left"><a id="Fig_102a"></a><b>Fig. 102<i>a</i>.</b></td> +</tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='4'><p>Fig. 102.—Beginning of stroke. Paddle should not be reached farther forward than this. It is immersed +<i>edgewise</i> (not point first) with a slicing motion. Note the angle of paddle—rear face of blade +turned <i>outward</i> to avoid tendency of canoe to turn. Staff of paddle is 6 inches too short. Left hand +should be lower.</p> + +<p>Fig. 102<i>a</i>.—A moment later. Right hand pushing forward, left hand swinging down. Left hand +should be lower on full-sized paddle.</p></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><img src="images/i_077c.png" width="251" height="171" alt="Fig. 103" /></td> +<td align="left"><a id="Fig_103"></a><b>Fig. 103.</b></td> +<td align="left"><a id="Fig_103a"></a><b>Fig. 103<i>a</i>.</b></td> +<td align="left"><img src="images/i_077d.png" width="272" height="164" alt="Fig. 103a" /></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='4'><p>Fig. 103.—Putting the power of the body in the stroke by bending slightly forward. Left hand held +stationary from now on, to act as fulcrum. The power comes from the right arm and shoulders.</p> + +<p>Fig. 103<i>a</i>.—The final effort, full weight of the body on the paddle. The right arm and body are +doing the work, the left arm (which is weak at this point) acting as fulcrum. Note twist of the right +wrist to give blade the proper angle.</p> +</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><img src="images/i_077e.png" width="275" height="171" alt="Fig. 104" /></td> +<td align="left"><a id="Fig_104"></a><b>Fig. 104.</b></td> +<td align="left"><a id="Fig_104a"></a><b>Fig. 104<i>a</i>.</b></td> +<td align="left"><img src="images/i_077f.png" width="260" height="158" alt="Fig. 104a" /></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='4'><p>Fig. 104.—End of stroke. Arms relaxed and body straightening.</p> + +<p>Fig. 104<i>a</i>.—Beginning of recovery. Paddle slides out of water gently. Note that blade is perfectly +flat on the surface. No steering action is required. If the canoe tends to swerve it is because the <i>stroke</i> +was not correct. Only a duffer <i>steers</i> with his paddle after the stroke is over. The left hand now +moves forward, the right swinging out and back, moving paddle forward horizontally.</p> +</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><img src="images/i_077g.png" width="263" height="162" alt="Fig. 104b" /></td> +<td align="left"><a id="Fig_104b"></a><b>Fig. 104<i>b</i>.</b></td> +<td align="left"><a id="Fig_104c"></a><b>Fig. 104<i>c</i>.</b></td> +<td align="left"><img src="images/i_077h.png" width="271" height="159" alt="Fig. 104c" /></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='4'><p>Fig. 104<i>b</i>.—Turning to right. The latter part of a broad sweep outward, away from the canoe. The +blade is now being swept toward the canoe, the left hand pulling in, the right pushing out. Position of +right wrist shows that blade has the opposite slant to that shown in the straightaway stroke—<i>i. e.</i>, the +near face of blade is turned <i>inward</i>. Blade leaves water with <i>outer</i> edge up. Wake of canoe shows +sharpness of turn.</p> + +<p>Fig. 104<i>c</i>.—Turning to left. The last motion of a stroke in which the paddle is swept close to the +canoe with the blade turned much farther outward than in the straightaway stroke. At end of stroke +blade is given an outward sweep and leaves the water with the <i>inner</i> edge up. <i>This is not a steering</i> or +dragging motion. It is a powerful sweep of the paddle. Note swirl in wake of canoe showing sharp turn.]</p> +</td></tr> +</table></div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span></p> + +<p>When you are standing upright and your paddle is in front of +you with the blade upon the ground, the handle should reach to +your eye-brows. (See Figs. <a href="#Fig_101">101</a>, <a href="#Fig_102">102</a>, <a href="#Fig_103">103</a>, etc.)</p> + +<p>Kneel with the paddle across the canoe and not farther forward +than the knees. Then dip the blade <i>edgewise</i> (not point first) by +raising the upper hand without bending the elbow. Swing the +paddle back, keeping it close to the canoe, and give a little twist +to the upper wrist to set the paddle at the proper angle shown in +the photos. The exact angle depends upon the trim of the boat, +the wind, etc., and must be such that the canoe does not swerve +<i>at any part</i> of the stroke, but travels straight ahead. The lower +arm acts mainly as a fulcrum and does not move back and forth +more than a foot. The power comes from the upper arm and +shoulder, and the body bends forward as the weight is thrown on +the paddle. The stroke continues until the paddle slides out of +the water endwise, flat on the surface. Then for recovery the +blade is brought forward by a swing from the shoulder, <i>not</i> lifting it +vertically, but swinging it horizontally with the blade parallel to +the water and the upper hand low. When it reaches a point +opposite the knee it is slid into the water again, edgewise, for another +stroke. The motion is a more or less rotary one, like stirring +cake, not a simple movement back and forth.</p> + + +<h3>To Carry a Canoe</h3> + +<p>To pick up a canoe and carry it requires not only the knack but +also muscle, and no undeveloped boy should make the attempt, +as he might strain himself, with serious results. But there are +plenty of young men—good, husky fellows—who can learn to do +this without any danger of injury if they are taught <i>how</i> to lift +by a competent physical instructor.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_105"></a><a id="Fig_106"></a><a id="Fig_107"></a><a id="Fig_108"></a><a id="Fig_109"></a> +<img src="images/i_079.png" width="600" height="533" alt="Fig. 106. Fig. 105. Fig. 107. Fig. 108. Fig. 109." /> +</div> +<p>To pick up a canoe for a "carry," stoop over and grasp the +middle brace with the right arm extended, and a short hold with +the left hand, as shown in <a href="#Fig_105">Fig. 105</a>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> + +<p>When you have a secure hold, hoist the canoe up on your legs, +as shown in <a href="#Fig_106">Fig. 106</a>. Without stopping the motion give her +another boost, until you have the canoe with the upper side above +your head, as in <a href="#Fig_107">Fig. 107</a>. In the diagram the paddles are not +spread apart as far as they should be. If the paddles are too +close together a fall may break ones neck.</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 565px;"> +<img src="images/i_080.png" width="565" height="725" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 110.—Northern Quebec Indians crossing the "ladder portage."</div> +</div> + +<p>Now turn the canoe over your head and slide your head between +the paddles (which are lashed to the spreaders, as shown in +<a href="#Fig_105">Fig. 105</a>), and twist your body around as you let the canoe +settle down over your head (<a href="#Fig_108">Fig. 108</a>). If you have a sweater or a +coat, it will help your shoulders by making a roll of it to serve as +a pad under the paddles, as in <a href="#Fig_109">Fig. 109</a>. I have seen an Indian<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +carry a canoe in this manner on a dog-trot over a five-mile portage +without resting. I also have seen Indians carry canoes over mountains, +crossing by the celebrated Ladder Portage in western +Quebec, where the only means of scaling a cliff is by ascending +a ladder made of notched logs. For real canoe work it is +necessary that a man should know how to carry his craft across<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +country from one body of water to another. All through the +Lakelands of Canada, and also the Lake St. John district, up +to Hudson Bay itself, the only trails are by water, with portage +across from one stream or lake to the other.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER VII<br /> +<small>HOW TO BUILD A PADDLING DORY</small></h2> + +<div class='summary2'>A Simple Boat Which Any One Can Build—The Cheapest Sort +of a Boat</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">To</span> construct this craft it is, of course, necessary that we shall +have some lumber, but we will use the smallest amount and the +expense will come within the limits of a small purse.</p> + +<p>First we must have two boards, their lengths depending upon +circumstances and the lumber available. The ones in the +diagram are supposed to be of pine to measure (after being +trimmed) 18 feet long by 18 inches wide and about 1 inch thick. +When the boards are trimmed down so as to be exact duplicates +of each other, place one board over the other so that their edges +all fit exactly and then nail each end of the two boards together +for the distance of about six inches. Turn the boards over and +nail them upon the opposite side in the same manner, clamping +the nail ends if they protrude. Do this by holding the head of a +hammer or a stone against the heads of the nails while you +hold a wire nail against the protruding end, and with a hammer +bend it over the nail until it can be mashed flat against the board +so that it will not project beyond its surface.</p> + +<p>After you have proceeded thus far, take some pieces of tin (<a href="#Fig_112">Fig. +112</a>) and bend the ragged edges over, so as to make a clean, +straight fold, and hammer it down flat until there are no rough or +raw edges exposed. Now tack a piece of this tin over the end of +the boards which composed the sides of the boat, as in <a href="#Fig_114">Fig. 114</a>. +Make the holes for the tacks first by driving the pointed end of a +wire nail through the tin where you wish the tacks to go and +then tack the tin snugly and neatly on, after which tack on +another piece of tin on both bow and stern, as in <a href="#Fig_116">Fig. 116</a>. This +will hold the two ends of the boards securely together so that they +may be carefully sprung apart in the middle to receive the middle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +mould which is to hold them in shape until the bottom of the boat +is nailed on, and the permanent thwarts, or seats, fastened inside. +When the latter are permanently fixed they will keep the boat in +shape.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 622px;"><a id="Fig_111"></a> +<img src="images/i_083a.png" width="622" height="126" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 111.—Parts of dory.</div> +</div> + +<p>To make the mould, which is only a temporary thing, you +may use any rough board, or boards nailed together with cleats +to hold them. The mould should be 2 feet 6 inches long and 1 foot +4 inches high. <a href="#Fig_111">Fig. 111</a> will show you how to cut off the ends +to give the proper slant. The dotted lines show the board before +it is trimmed in shape. By measuring along the edge of the board +from each end 10.8 inches and marking the points, and then, with +a carpenter's pencil ruling the diagonal lines to the other edge and +ends of the board, the triangles may be sawed off with a hand saw.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_112"></a><a id="Fig_113"></a><a id="Fig_114"></a><a id="Fig_115"></a><a id="Fig_116"></a> +<img src="images/i_083b.png" width="600" height="191" alt="Fig. 113. Fig. 114. Fig. 112. Fig. 115. Fig. 116." /> +<div class="caption">The simple details of the dory.</div> +</div> + +<p><a href="#Fig_111">Fig. 111</a> shows where the mould is to be placed in the center +of the two side boards. As the boards in this diagram are supposed +to be on the slant, and consequently in the perspective, +they do not appear as wide as they really are. The diagram is +made also with the ends of the side boards free so as to better +show the position of the mould. But when the side boards are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> +sprung apart and the mould placed in position (<a href="#Fig_113">Fig. 113</a>), it will +appear as in <a href="#Fig_116">Fig. 116</a> or <a href="#Fig_117">Fig. 117</a>. <a href="#Fig_115">Fig. 115</a> shows the shape of +the stem-posts to be set in both bow and stern and nailed securely +in place.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 619px;"><a id="Fig_118"></a> +<img src="images/i_084a.png" width="619" height="251" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 118.<br />Top views of dory and parts of dory.</div> +</div> + +<p>When you have gone thus far fit in two temporary braces near +the bow and stern, as shown in <a href="#Fig_117">Fig. 117</a>. These braces are simply +narrow pieces of boards held in position by nails driven +through the outside of the boat, the latter left with their heads +protruding, so that they may be easily drawn when necessary.</p> + +<p>Now turn the boat over bottom up and you will find that the +angle at which the sides are bent will cause the bottom boards +to rest upon a thin edge of the side boards, as shown in <a href="#Fig_119">Fig. 119</a>. +With an ordinary jack-plane trim this down so that the bottom +boards will rest flush and +snug, as in <a href="#Fig_120">Fig. 120</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"><a id="Fig_118_5"></a> +<img src="images/i_084b.png" width="350" height="138" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 118½.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>How to Calk a Boat so That +It Won't Leak</h3> + +<p>If you wish to make a +bottom that will never leak, +not even when it is placed in the water for the first time, plane off +the boards on their sides, so that when fitted together they will +leave a triangular groove between each board, as shown in Fig. +<a href="#Fig_118_5">118½</a>. These grooves will show upon the inside of the boat, and not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> +upon the outside, and in this case the calking is done from the +inside and not from the outside. They are first calked with +candlewick, over which putty is used, but for a rough boat it is +not even necessary to use any calking. When the planks swell +they will be forced together, so as to exclude all water.</p> + +<p>To fasten the bottom on the boat put a board lengthwise at the +end, as shown in <a href="#Fig_121">Fig. 121</a>. One end shows the end board as it is +first nailed on, and the other end shows it after it has been trimmed +off to correspond with the sides of the boat. Now put your short +pieces of boards for the bottom on one at a time, driving each one +snug up against its neighbor before nailing it in place and leaving +the rough or irregular ends of each board protrude on each side, +as shown at the right-hand end of <a href="#Fig_121">Fig. 121</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 679px;"><a id="Fig_117"></a><a id="Fig_119"></a><a id="Fig_120"></a><a id="Fig_121"></a> +<img src="images/i_085.png" width="679" height="295" alt="Fig. 117. Fig. 119. Fig. 120. Fig. 121." /> +<div class="caption">Top view with sides in place, also reversed view showing how bottom boards are laid.</div> +</div> + +<p>When all the boards are nailed in place (by beginning at one +end and fitting them against each other until the other end is +reached) they may be trimmed off with a saw (<a href="#Fig_121">Fig. 121</a>) and +your boat is finished with the exception of the thwarts, or seats.</p> + +<p>If you intend to propel this with paddles like a canoe, you will +need a seat in the centre for your passenger, and this may be +placed in the position occupied by the form (<a href="#Fig_111">Figs. 111</a> and <a href="#Fig_117">117</a>) +after the latter is removed. To fit a seat in it is only necessary to +cut two cleats and nail them to the sides of the boat for the seat +to rest upon and saw off a board the proper length to fit upon the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> +cleats. It would be well now to fasten the braces in the bow and +stern permanently, adjusting them to suit your convenience. +The seat should be as low as possible for safety. With this your +paddling dory is finished, and may be used even without being +painted. A coat of paint, however, improves not only the looks +but the tightness and durability of any boat.</p> + +<p>We have now advanced so far in our boat-building that it +becomes necessary that the beginner should learn more about +boats and boating, and since this book is written for beginners, +we will take it for granted that they know absolutely nothing +about the subject and will give all the rudimentary knowledge +for landlubbers in the next chapter.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER VIII<br /> +<small>THE LANDLUBBER'S CHAPTER</small></h2> + +<div class='summary1'>Common Nautical Terms and Expressions Defined—How to Sail +a Boat—Boat Rigs—Rowing-clothes—How to Make a Bathing-suit—How +to Avoid Sunburn</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">There</span> are a few common terms with which all who venture +on the water should be familiar, not only for convenience, but +for prudential reasons.</p> + +<p>Accidents are liable to happen to boats of all descriptions, and +often the safety of property and life depend upon the passengers' +ability to understand what is said to them by the officers or sailors +in charge of the craft.</p> + +<p>To those who are familiar with the water and shipping it may +seem absurd to define the bow and stern of a boat, but there are +people who will read this book who cannot tell the bow from +the stern, so we will begin this chapter with the statement that</p> + +<p><b>The bow</b> is the front end of the boat, and</p> + +<p><b>The stern</b> is the rear end of the boat.</p> + +<p><b>For'ard</b> is toward the bow of the boat.</p> + +<p><b>Aft</b> is toward the stern of the boat. Both terms are used by +sailors as forward and backward are used by landsmen.</p> + +<p><b>The hull</b> is the boat itself without masts, spars, or rigging. A +skiff and a birch-bark canoe are hulls.</p> + +<p><b>The keel</b> is the piece of timber running along the centre of the +bottom of the hull, like the runner of a skate, and used to give +the boat a hold on the water, so that she will not slide sideways.</p> + +<p>When you are sitting in the stern of a boat, facing the bow, +the side next to your right hand is the right-hand side of the boat,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> +and the side next to your left hand is the left-hand side of the boat. +But these terms are not used by seamen; they always say</p> + +<p><b>Starboard</b> for the right-hand side of the boat, and</p> + +<p><b>Port</b> for the left-hand side of the boat. Formerly the left-hand +side was called the larboard, but this occasioned many serious +mistakes on account of the similarity of the sound of larboard and +starboard when used in giving orders.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_122"></a> +<img src="images/i_088.png" width="600" height="223" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 122.—Top view of small boat.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>Red and Green Lights</h3> + +<p>After dark a red light is carried on the port side and a green +light on the starboard side of all vessels in motion. If you can +remember that port wine is red, and that the port light is of the +same color, you will always be able to tell in which direction an +approaching craft is pointing by the relative location of the lights.</p> + +<div class='poem'> +"When both lights you see ahead,<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Port your helm and show your red!</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">Green to green and red to red,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">You're all right, and go ahead!"</span><br /> +</div> + +<p>If you are a real landlubber, the verse quoted will be of little +service, because you will not know how to port your helm. In +fact, you probably will not know where to look for the helm or +what it looks like; but only a few of our readers are out-and-out<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +landlubbers, and most of them know that the helm is in some +way connected with the steering apparatus.</p> + +<p><b>The rudder</b> is the movable piece of board at the stern of the +boat by means of which the craft is guided. The rudder is moved +by a lever, ropes, or a wheel.</p> + +<p><b>The tiller</b> is the lever for moving the rudder, or the ropes used +for the same purpose (<a href="#Fig_123">Fig. 123</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_123"></a> +<img src="images/i_089.png" width="600" height="373" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 123.—Helm—Lever, or stick, for tiller.</div> +</div> + +<p><b>The wheel</b> is the wheel whose spokes end in handles on the +outer edge of the rim, or felly, and it is used for moving the rudder +(<a href="#Fig_124">Fig. 124</a>).</p> + +<p><b>The helm</b> is that particular part of the steering apparatus that +you put your hands on when steering.</p> + +<p><b>The deck</b> is the roof of the hull.</p> + +<p><b>The centreboard</b> is an adjustable keel that can be raised or +lowered at pleasure. It is an American invention. The centreboard, +as a rule, is only used on comparatively small vessels. +The inventor of the centreboard is Mr. Salem Wines, who kept +a shop on Water Street, near Market Slip, and, when alive, was a +well-known New York boat-builder. His body now lies in Greenwood<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +Cemetery, and upon the headstone of his grave is the +inscription, "The Inventor of the Centreboard."</p> + +<p>For sailing, the boat, or hull, is rigged with masts and spars +for spreading the sails to catch the wind.</p> + +<p><b>The masts</b> are the upright poles, or sticks, that hold the sails.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_124"></a> +<img src="images/i_090.png" width="600" height="482" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 124.—Helm—The wheel.</div> +</div> + +<p><b>The yards</b> are the poles, or sticks, at right angles with the masts +that spread the sails.</p> + +<p><b>The boom</b> is the movable spar at the bottom of the sail.</p> + +<p><b>The gaff</b> is the pole, or spar, for spreading the top, or head, of +the sail (<a href="#Fig_125">Fig. 125</a>).</p> + +<p><b>The sail</b> is a big canvas kite, of which the boom, gaff, and masts +are the kite-sticks. You must not understand by this that the +sail goes soaring up in the air, for the weight of the hull prevents +that; but if you make fast a large kite to the mast of a boat it +would be a sail, and if you had a line long and strong enough, +and should fasten any spread sail to it, there can be no doubt that +the sail would fly.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>The spars</b> are the masts, bowsprit, yards, and gaffs.</p> + +<p><b>The bowsprit</b> is the stick, or sprit, projecting from the bow of the +boat (<a href="#Fig_161">Fig. 161</a>, Sloop).</p> + +<p><b>The foremast</b> is the mast next to the bow—the forward mast +(<a href="#Fig_159">Fig. 159</a>, Ship).</p> + +<p><b>The mainmast</b> is the second mast—the mast next to the foremast.</p> + +<p><b>Mizzen-mast</b> is the mast next to and back of the mainmast +(<a href="#Fig_159">Fig. 159</a>, Ship).</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 315px;"><a id="Fig_125"></a> +<img src="images/i_091.png" width="315" height="366" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 125.—A sail.</div> +</div> + +<p><b>The rigging</b> of a boat consists of the ropes, or lines, attached to +its masts and sails, but a boat's rig refers to the +number of masts as well as to the shape of its +sails.</p> + +<p><b>Stays</b> are strong ropes supporting the masts, +fore and aft.</p> + +<p><b>Shrouds</b> are strong ropes reaching from the +mastheads to the sides of the vessel; supports +for the masts, starboard and port.</p> + +<p><b>Ratlines</b> are the little ropes that form the +steps, or foot ropes, that run crosswise between the shrouds.</p> + +<p><b>The painter</b> is the rope at the bow of a small boat, used for the +same purpose as is a hitching-strap on a horse.</p> + +<p><b>The standing rigging</b> consists of the stays and shrouds.</p> + +<p><b>The running rigging</b> consists of all the ropes used in handling +yards and sails.</p> + +<p><b>The sheets</b> are the ropes, or lines, attached to the corners of sails, +by which they are governed (<a href="#Fig_126">Fig. 126</a>).</p> + +<p><b>The main sheet</b> is the rope that governs the mainsail.</p> + +<p><b>The jib-sheet</b> is the rope that governs the jib-sail.</p> + +<p><b>The gaskets</b> are the ropes used in lashing the sails when furled.</p> + +<p><b>The braces</b> are the ropes used in swinging the yards around.</p> + +<p><b>The jib-stay</b> is the stay that runs from the foremast to the +bowsprit.</p> + +<p><b>The bob-stay</b> is practically an extension of the jib-stay and the +chief support of the spars. It connects the bow of the boat with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> +the bowsprit and prevents the latter from bobbing up and +down.</p> + +<p>Besides the port and starboard sides of a boat there are the +windward and leeward sides. Do not understand by this that the +boat has four sides, like a square. Windward may be the port +or the starboard side, according to the direction the wind blows; +because</p> + +<p><b>Windward</b> means the side of the boat against which the wind +blows—the side where the wind climbs aboard; or it may mean +the direction from which the wind comes. The opposite side +is called</p> + +<p><b>Leeward</b>—that is, the side of the boat opposite to that against +which the wind blows, where the wind tumbles overboard, or the +side opposite to windward. When you are sailing you may be +near a</p> + +<p><b>Lee Shore</b>—that is, the shore on your lee side against which +the wind blows; or a</p> + +<p><b>Windward Shore</b>—that is, the land on your windward side +from which the wind blows.</p> + +<p>All seamen dread a lee shore, as it is a most dangerous shore to +approach, from the fact that the wind is doing its best to blow +you on the rocks or beach. But the windward shore can be approached +with safety, because the wind will keep you off the +rocks, and if it is blowing hard, the land will break the force of +the wind.</p> + +<p>In a canoe or shell the boatman sits either directly on the bottom, +or, as in the shell, very close to it, and the weight of his body +serves to keep the boat steady, but larger crafts seldom rely upon +live weights to steady them. They use</p> + +<p><b>Ballast</b>—that is, weights of stone, lead, iron, or sand-bags, +used to balance the boat and make her steady.</p> + +<p>As has been said before in this chapter, the sail is a big canvas +kite made fast to the boat and called a sail, but the ordinary kite +has its covering stretched permanently on rigid sticks.</p> + +<p>The sail, however, can be stretched to its full extent or only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> +partially, or it may be rolled up, exposing nothing but the masts +to the force of the wind. To accomplish all this there are various +ropes and attachments, all of which are named.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 513px;"><a id="Fig_126"></a> +<img src="images/i_093a.png" width="513" height="600" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 126.—Sail and sheet.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 447px;"><a id="Fig_127"></a> +<img src="images/i_093b.png" width="447" height="528" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 127.—Parts of sail.</div> +</div> + +<p>It is quite important that the beginner should know the +names of all the</p> + + +<h3>Parts of a Sail</h3> + +<p><b>Luff.</b>—That part of the sail adjoining the mast—the front of +the sail (<a href="#Fig_127">Fig. 127</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Leach.</b>-That part of the sail stretched between the outer or +after end of the boom and the outer end of the gaff—the back +part of the sail (<a href="#Fig_127">Fig. 127</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Head.</b>—That part of the sail adjoining the gaff—the top of the +sail.</p> + +<p><b>Foot.</b>—That part of the sail adjoining the boom—the bottom +of the sail (<a href="#Fig_127">Fig. 127</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Clews.</b>—A general name for the four corners of the sail.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Clew.</b>—The particular corner at the foot of the sail where the +leach and boom meet (<a href="#Fig_127">Fig. 127</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Tack.</b>—The corner of the sail where boom and mast meet +(<a href="#Fig_127">Fig. 127</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Throat, or Nock.</b>—The corner of the sail where gaff and mast +meet (<a href="#Fig_127">Fig. 127</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Peak.</b>—Corner of the sail where the leach and gaff meet +(<a href="#Fig_127">Fig. 127</a>).</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 182px;"><a id="Fig_128"></a> +<img src="images/i_094a.png" width="182" height="364" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 128.—Starboard helm</div> +</div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 190px;"><a id="Fig_129"></a> +<img src="images/i_094b.png" width="190" height="364" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 129—Port helm.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>How to Steer a Boat</h3> + +<p>When you wish your boat to turn to the right push your helm +to the left. This will push the rudder to the right and turn the +boat in that direction. When you wish your boat to turn to the +left push your helm to the right. In other words, starboard your +helm and you will turn to the port (<a href="#Fig_128">Fig. 128</a>). Port your helm +and you will turn to the starboard (<a href="#Fig_129">Fig. 129</a>).</p> + +<p>From a reference to the diagram you may see that when you +<b>port your helm</b> you move the tiller to the port side of the boat, +and when you <b>starboard your helm</b> you move your tiller to the +starboard side of the boat (<a href="#Fig_128">Fig. 128</a>), but to <b>ease your helm</b> you +move your helm toward the centre of the boat—that is, amidships.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>How to Sail a Boat</h3> + +<p>If you fasten the bottom of a kite to the ground, you will find +that the wind will do its best to blow the kite over, and if the kite +is fastened to the mast of a toy boat, the wind will try to blow the +boat over.</p> + +<p>In sailing a boat the effort of the wind apparently has but one +object, and that is the upsetting of the boat. The latter, being +well balanced, is constantly endeavoring to sit upright on its keel, +and you, as a sailor, are aiding the boat in the struggle, at the +same time subverting the purpose of the wind to suit your own +ideas. It is an exciting game, in which man usually comes out +ahead, but the wind gains enough victories to keep its courage up.</p> + +<p>Every boat has peculiarities of its own, and good traits as well +as bad ones, which give the craft a personal character that lends +much to your interest, and even affects your sensibilities to the +extent of causing you to have the same affection for a good, trustworthy +craft that you have for an intelligent and kind dog or +horse.</p> + +<p>A properly balanced sail-boat, with main sheet trimmed flat +and free helm, should be as sensitive as a weathercock and act +like one—that is, she ought to swing around until her bow pointed +right into the "eye of the wind," the direction from which the +wind blows. Such a craft it is not difficult to sail, but it frequently +happens that the boat that is given to you to sail is not properly +balanced, and shows a constant tendency to "come up in the +wind"—face the wind—when you are doing your best to keep her +sails full and keep her on her course. This may be caused by too +much sail aft. The boat is then said to carry a weather helm.</p> + +<p><b>Weather Helm.</b>—When a boat shows a constant tendency to +come up in the wind.</p> + +<p><b>Lee Helm.</b>—When a boat shows a constant tendency to fall +off the wind—that is, when the wind blows her bow to the leeward. +This is a much worse trait than the former, and a boat with a lee +helm is a dangerous boat. It may be possible to remedy it by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +adding sail aft or reducing sail forward, which should immediately +be done.</p> + +<p>In spite of the fact, already stated, that the wind's constant +effort is to capsize a boat, there is little or no danger of a properly +rigged boat upsetting unless the sheets are fast or hampered in +some way. When a sail-boat upsets it is, of course, because the +wind blows it over. Now, the wind cannot blow a boat over +unless the boat presents some surface larger than its hull for the +wind to blow against, and the sail is the only object that offers +enough surface to the breeze to cause an upset.</p> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations and shared caption"> +<tr><td align="left"><div class="figleft" style="width: 223px;"><a id="Fig_130"></a> +<img src="images/i_096a.png" width="223" height="463" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 130—Close-hauled.</div> +</div></td> +<td align="left"><div class="figright" style="width: 378px;"><a id="Fig_131"></a> +<img src="images/i_096b.png" width="378" height="502" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 131.—Before the wind.</div> +</div></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center" colspan='2'><div class='caption'>Top view of boats, showing position of helm and boom.</div> +</td></tr> +</table></div> + + + + + +<p>If the sheet is slackened, the sail will swing around until it +flaps like a flag and only the thin edge is presented to the wind; +and a boat that a flag will upset is no boat for beginners to trust +themselves in. True, the boom may be very long and heavy +enough to make it dangerous to let so much of it overboard, but +this is seldom the case. A good sailor keeps his eyes constantly +on the sails and trims them to take advantage of the slightest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +favorable breeze. In place of losing control of his sail by letting +go the sheets he will ease the tiller so as to "spill" part of the wind +that is, let the forward part, or luff, of the sail shake a bit. Or, +in case of a sudden puff of wind, he may deem it necessary to +"luff"—that is, let her shake—and slacken the sheets too.</p> + +<p><b>Trimmed Flat.</b>—Sheets hauled in until the boom is only a little +to the leeward of the helm (<a href="#Fig_130">Fig. 130</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Close-hauled.</b>—Sheets trimmed flat and the boat pointing as +near as possible to the eye of the wind. Then the sail cannot +belly, and is called flat (<a href="#Fig_130">Fig. 130</a>).</p> + + +<h3>To Sail Close-hauled</h3> + +<p>The skipper must watch that his sail does not flap or ripple at +the throat, for that means that he is pointing too close to the +wind and that some of the breeze is blowing on both sides of +his sail, which even a novice can see will retard the boat.</p> + +<p>Upon discovering a rippling motion at the luff of the sail put +the helm up—that is, move the tiller a little to windward until the +sail stops its flapping.</p> + +<p><b>Before the Wind.</b>—When the wind is astern; sailing with the +wind; sailing directly from windward to leeward (<a href="#Fig_131">Fig. 131</a>).</p> + +<p>In order to reach the desired point it is often expedient to sail +before the wind, but unless the wind is light, beginners had +better not try this. To sail before the wind you let your sheets +out until the boom stands at <i>almost</i> right angles with the boat. +Keep your eye on the sail and see that it does not flap, for if the +man at the helm is careless and allows the boat to point enough +away from the direction of the wind to allow the wind to get on +the other side of the sail, the latter will swing around or jibe with +such force as to endanger the mast, if it does not knock some one +overboard.</p> + +<p>The price of liberty is constant vigilance, and the price of a +good sail is the same. I have seen a mast snapped off clean at +the deck by a jibe, and once when out after ducks every one was +so intent upon the game that proper attention was not paid to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> +the sail. The wind got round and brought the boom with a +swing aft, knocking the captain of our boat club overboard. +Had the boom hit him in the head and stunned him, the result +might have been fatal.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 490px;"><a id="Fig_131_5"></a><a id="Fig_132"></a><a id="Fig_133"></a> +<img src="images/i_098.png" width="490" height="512" alt="Fig. 132.—Boom hauled in. Fig. 133.—On new course. Fig. 131½.—Before the wind." /> +<div class="caption">Figs. 131½, 132, and 133.—Jibing.</div> +</div> + +<p><b>Wing and Wing.</b>—When a schooner goes before the wind with +one sail out at nearly right angles on the port side and the other +in the same position on the starboard side she is said to be wing +and wing and presents a beautiful sight.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Tacking.</b>—Working to the windward by a series of diagonal +moves.</p> + +<p><b>Legs.</b>—The moves or diagonal courses made in tacking. It is +apparent to the most unthinking observer that no vessel propelled +by sail can move against the direct course of the wind—that is, +nothing but electricity, naphtha, steam, or some such power can +drive a boat into the eye of the wind. But what cannot be accomplished +in a direct manner can be done by a series of compromises, +each of which will bring us nearer to the desired +point.</p> + +<p>First we point the boat to the right or left, as the case may be, +as near or as close to the wind as the boat will sail. Then we +come about and sail in the other direction as close as practicable +to the eye of the wind, and each time we gain something in a direct +line.</p> + +<p>When your boat changes its direction on a tack it is done by +"jibing," or "coming about."</p> + +<p><b>Jibing.</b>—With the wind on the quarter, haul the main boom +aft or amidship with all possible speed, by means of the main +sheets (<a href="#Fig_132">Fig. 132</a>), and as the wind strikes the sail on the other +side let it out as deliberately as possible until it reaches the position +desired (<a href="#Fig_133">Fig. 133</a>).</p> + +<p>Beginners should never attempt to jibe, for if there is more +than a capful of wind, the sail will probably get away from them, +and, as described in going before the wind, some disaster is liable +to occur. Experts only jibe in light winds, and frequently lower +the peak, so as to reduce sail, before attempting a jibe.</p> + + +<h3>Coming About</h3> + +<p>When you wish to come about see that all the tackle, ropes, +etc., are clear and in working order, and that you are making +good headway; then call out: "Helm's a-lee!" or "Ready about!" +and push the tiller in the direction opposite to that from which the +wind blows—that is, to the lee side of the boat. This will bring +the bow around until the wind strikes the sail upon the side opposite<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +to that which it struck before the helm was a-lee (<a href="#Fig_134">Figs. +134</a>, <a href="#Fig_135">135</a>, <a href="#Fig_136">136</a>, <a href="#Fig_137">137</a>).</p> + +<p>If you are aboard a sloop or schooner, ease off the jib-sheet, but +keep control of it, so that as the boat comes up to the wind you +can make the jib help the bow around by holding the sheets so as +to catch the wind aback. When the bow of the craft has passed +the eye of the wind and the sail begins to fill give the order to +make fast, or trim, the jib, and off you go upon the opposite tack, +or on a new leg.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 586px;"><a id="Fig_134"></a><a id="Fig_135"></a><a id="Fig_136"></a><a id="Fig_137"></a> +<img src="images/i_100.png" width="586" height="307" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Figs. 134, 135, 136, and 137.—Coming about.</div> +</div> + +<p>If the wind is light, or if, for any cause, the boat works slowly, +you can sometimes help her by trimming in the main sheet when +you let the jib-sheet fly. In the diagram of coming about no +jib is shown.</p> + +<p><b>Wearing</b> is a term sometimes used in place of jibing.</p> + + +<h3>In a Thunder-storm</h3> + +<p>A thunder-storm is always an uncertain thing. There may be +a veritable tornado hidden in the black clouds that we see rising +on the horizon, or it may simply "iron out the wind"—that is, +go grumbling overhead—and leave us becalmed, to get home the +best way we can; generally by what the boys call a "white-ash +breeze"—that is, by using the sweeps or oars.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span></p> + +<p>On Long Island Sound a thunder-storm seems to have certain +fixed rules of conduct. In the first place, it comes up from the +leeward, or <i>against the wind</i>. Just before the storm strikes you +for an instant the wind ceases and the sails flap idly. Then look +out! for in nine cases out of ten you are struck the next moment +by a sudden squall from exactly the opposite direction from which +the wind blew a moment before.</p> + + +<h3>What to Do</h3> + +<p>Make for the nearest port with all speed, and keep a man at the +downhaul ready at a moment's notice to lower sail. The moment +the wind stops drop the sail and make everything snug, leaving +only bare poles. When the thunder-squall strikes you, be it +ever so hard, you are now in little danger; and if the wind from +the new quarter is not too fresh, you can hoist sail again and make +the best of your way to the nearest port, where you can "get in +out of the wet."</p> + +<p>If the wind is quite fresh keep your peak down, and with a +reefed sail speed on your way. If it is a regular howler, let your +boat drive before the wind under bare poles until you can find +shelter or until it blows over, and the worst mishap you are likely +to incur is a good soaking from the rain.</p> + +<p><b>Shortening Sail.</b>—Just as soon as the boat heels over too far +for safety, or as soon as you are convinced that there is more wind +than you need for comfortable sailing, it is time to take a reef—that +is, to roll up the bottom of the sail to the row of little ropes, +or reefing points, on the sail and make fast there. This, of course, +makes a smaller sail, and that is what you wish.</p> + +<p>While under way it will be found impossible to reef a sail except +when sailing close-hauled. So the boat is brought up into +the wind by pushing the helm down, as if you intended to come +about. When possible it is better to lower the sail entirely before +attempting to put in a reef.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>To Reef Without Lowering Sail</h3> + +<p>It sometimes happens that on account of the proximity of a +lee shore, and the consequent danger of drifting in that direction, +or for some other equally good reason, it is inadvisable to lower +sail and lose headway. Under such circumstances the main +sheet must be trimmed flat, keeping the boat as close as possible +to the wind, the helm must be put up hard a-lee, and jib-sheet +trimmed to windward (<a href="#Fig_138">Fig. 138</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 410px;"><a id="Fig_138"></a> +<img src="images/i_102.png" width="410" height="420" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 138.—Squirming; jib on port side, boom close-hauled +on starboard side.</div> +</div> + +<p>When this is done the wind will hit the jib, "paying her head +off," or pushing her bow to leeward, and this tendency is counteracted +by the helm and mainsail, bringing the bow up into the +wind. This keeps the boat squirming. Lower the mainsail +until the row of reef points is just on a line with the boom, keeping +to the windward of the sail. Tie the first point—that is, the one +on the luff rope—then the one on the leach, being careful to stretch +out the foot of the sail. Then tie the remaining points, always<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> +making a square or reefing knot. Tie them to the jack-stay on +the boom or around the boom.</p> + + +<h3>The Reef or Square Knot</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is most frequently used, as its name implies, in reefing sails. +First make a plain overhand knot, as in <a href="#Fig_139">Fig. 139</a>. Then repeat +the operation by taking the end and passing it +over and under the loop, drawing the parts +tight, as shown in <a href="#Fig_140">Fig. 140</a>. Care should be +observed in crossing the ends so that they will +always lay fairly alongside the main parts. +Otherwise the knot will prove a <i>granny</i> and be comparatively +worthless.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 353px;"><a id="Fig_139"></a><a id="Fig_140"></a> +<img src="images/i_103.png" width="353" height="86" alt="drawings" /> +<div class="caption">Figs. 139 and 140.—Square +or reef knot.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>To Shake Out a Reef</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>untie the knots, keeping to the windward of the sail. Untie the +knot at the leach first, next the one at the luff, and then the remaining +points. In lowering a sail you use a rope called the +<b>downhaul</b>.</div> + +<p><b>Starboard Tack.</b>—When the main boom is over the port side.</p> + +<p><b>Port Tack.</b>—When the main boom is over the starboard side.</p> + +<p><b>Right of Way.</b>—All boats sailing on the starboard tack have +the right of way over all those on the port tack. In other words, +if you are on the starboard tack, those on the port tack must keep +out of your way. Any boat sailing close-hauled has the right of +way over a boat sailing free.</p> + + +<h3>Lights for Canoe</h3> + +<p>A canoe under sail at night should have an uncolored lantern +hung to her mizzen-mast to notify other craft that she is out and +objects to being run down. The light is put on the mizzen so that +it may be behind the skipper and not dazzle him.</p> + +<p>What you have read in the foregoing pages will not be found +very difficult to remember, but there is only one way to learn to +sail and that is by <i>sailing</i>. If possible, sail with some one who is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> +a good seaman. If this sort of companion cannot be had, try it +alone on smooth water and with short sail until you accustom +yourself to the boat and its peculiarities. No boy ever learned +to skate or swim from books, but books often have been helpful +in giving useful hints to those who were really learning by practical +experience.</p> + + +<h3>Some Do Nots</h3> + +<div class='poem2'> +Do not overload the boat.<br /> +Do not carry too much sail.<br /> +Do not sail in strange waters without chart or compass.<br /> +Do not forget your anchor.<br /> +Do not forget your paddles or oars.<br /> +Do not attempt to learn to sail before you know how to swim.<br /> +Do not sit on the gunwale.<br /> +Do not put the helm down too suddenly or too far.<br /> +Do not let go the helm.<br /> +Do not mistake caution for cowardice.<br /> +Do not be afraid to reef.<br /> +Do not fear the ridicule of other landlubbers.<br /> +Do not fail to keep the halyards and sheets clear.<br /> +Do not jibe in a stiff wind.<br /> +Do not fail to keep your head in times of emergency.<br /> +Do not make a display of bravery until the occasion demands it.<br /> +Do not allow mistakes or mishaps to discourage you.<br /> +Do not associate with a fool who rocks a boat.<br /> +</div> + +<p>You will soon become an expert and be able to engage in one of +our most exhilarating, healthy, and manly sports and earn the +proud distinction of being a good small-boat sailor.</p> + + +<h3>It is Necessary to Learn to Swim</h3> + +<p>From the parents' point of view, nowhere that a boy's restless +nature impels him to go is fraught with so much peril as the water, +and nowhere is a boy happier than when he is on the water, unless<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +it is when he is in it. Nowhere can be found a better school +for his young mind and body than that furnished by boating. +Hence it appears to be the imperative duty for parents personally +to see that their children are taught to swim as soon as their little +limbs have strength enough to make the proper motions.</p> + + +<h3>Boating-Clothes</h3> + +<p>In aquatic sports of all kinds, if you expect to have fun, you +must dress appropriately. You should have a suit of old clothes +that you can change for dry ones when the sport is over. When +boating, it is nonsense to pretend you can keep dry under all the +varying conditions of wind and weather. If your purse is small, +and you want a good rowing-suit, it can be made of last winter's +woollen underclothes, and will answer for the double purpose of +rowing and bathing.</p> + + +<h3>How to Make a Bathing-Suit</h3> + +<p>First take an old woollen undershirt and cut the sleeves off +above the elbows. Then coax your mother, aunt, or sister to sew +it up in front like a sweater, and hem the edges of the sleeves where +they have just been cut off.</p> + +<p>Next take a pair of woollen drawers and have them sewed up in +front, leaving an opening at the top about four inches in length; +turn the top edge down all around to cover a piece of tape that +should be long enough to tie in front. Have this hem or flap +sewed down to cover the tape, and allow the two ends of the tape +to protrude at the opening in front. The tape should not be +sewed to the cloth, but should move freely, so that you can tighten +or loosen it at will. Cut the drawers off at the knees and have +the edges hemmed, and you will have a first-class bathing or +rowing-suit.</p> + +<p>If woollen clothes are not to be had, cotton will do, but wool is +coolest and warmest, as the occasion may require.</p> + +<p>When rowing wear old socks, woollen ones if you have them, +and old shoes cut down like slippers. The latter can be kicked<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> +off at a moment's notice, and, if lost, they are of no value, and +may be easily replaced.</p> + +<p>When on shore a long pair of woollen stockings to cover your +bare legs and a sweater to pull over your sleeveless shirt are handy +and comfortable, but while sailing, paddling, or rowing in hot +weather the rowing-suit is generally all that comfort requires. +Of course, if your skin is tender, you are liable to be terribly sunburned +on your arms, neck, and legs; but</p> + + +<h3>Sunburn</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>may be avoided by gradually accustoming your limbs to the exposure. +Dearly will you pay for your negligence if you go out +for a day with bare arms or legs in the hot sun before you have +toughened yourself, and little will you sleep that night.</div> + +<p>I have seen young men going to business the day following a +regatta with no collars on their red necks, and no shirt over their +soft undershirts, the skin being too tender to bear the touch of the +stiff, starched linen, and I have known others who could not sleep +a wink on account of the feverish state of their bodies, caused by +the hot sun and a tender skin. Most boys have had some experience +from sunburn, acquired while bathing. If care is taken +to cover your arms and legs after about an hour's exposure, you +will find that in place of being blistered, your skin will be first +pink and then a faint brownish tint, which each succeeding exposure +will deepen until your limbs will assume that dark, rich +mahogany color of which athletes are so proud. This makes your +skin proof against future attacks of the hottest rays of the sun.</p> + +<p>Besides the pain and discomfort of a sudden and bad sunburn +on your arms, the effect is not desirable, as it is very liable to +cover your arms with freckles. I have often seen men with +beautifully bronzed arms and freckled shoulders, caused by +going out in their shells first with short sleeves and then with +shirts from which the sleeves were entirely cut away, exposing +the white, tender shoulders to the fierce heat, to which they +were unaccustomed.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span></p> + +<p>It is a good plan to cover the exposed parts of your body with +sweet-oil, vaseline, mutton-tallow, beef-tallow, or lard. This is +good as a preventive while in the sun, and excellent as an application +after exposure. Any sort of oil or grease that does not contain +salt is good for your skin.</p> + + +<h3>Clothes for Canoeing</h3> + +<p>In canoeing I have found it convenient to dress as I would in a +shell boat, but I generally have had a sweater and a pair of long +trousers stowed away, ready to be pulled on over my rowing-clothes +when I landed. Once, when I neglected to put these +extra clothes aboard, I was storm-bound up Long Island Sound, +and, leaving my boat, I took the train home, but I did not enjoy +my trip, for the bare legs and arms and knit cap attracted more +attention than is pleasant for a modest man.</p> + +<p>Do not wear laced shoes in a canoe, for experience has taught +boating-men that about the most inconvenient articles of clothing +to wear in the water are laced shoes. While swimming your feet +are of absolutely no use if incased in this style of foot-gear, and +all the work must be done with the arms. But if you have old +slippers, they may be kicked off, and then you are dressed practically +in a bathing-suit, and can swim with comfort and ease.</p> + +<p>Possibly these precautions may suggest the idea that a ducking +is not at all an improbable accident, and it must be confessed +that the boy who thinks he can learn to handle small boats without +an occasional unlooked-for swim is liable to discover his mistake +before he has become master of his craft.</p> + + +<h3>Stick to Your Boat</h3> + +<p>Always remember that a wet head is a very small object in +the water, and liable to be passed by unnoticed, but that a +capsized boat can scarcely fail to attract attention and insure a +speedy rescue from an awkward position. As for the real danger +of boating, it cannot be great where care is used. Not one fatality +has occurred on the water, among all of my large circle of boating<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +friends, and personally I have never witnessed a fatal accident in +all the years I have spent rowing and sailing.</p> + + +<h3>Life-Preservers</h3> + +<p>All canoes should have a good cork life-preserver in them when +the owner ventures away from land. I never but once ventured +any distance without one, and that is the only time I was ever in +need of a life-preserver. The ordinary cork jacket is best. It +can be used for a seat, and when spread on the bottom of your +canoe, with an old coat or some article thrown over it for a cushion, +it is not at all an uncomfortable seat. Most canoes have airtight +compartments fore and aft—that is, at both ends—and the +boat itself is then a good life-preserver. Even without the airtight +compartments, unless your boat is loaded with ballast or +freight, there is no danger of its sinking. A canvas canoe, as a +rule, has enough woodwork about it to support your weight when +the boat is full of water.</p> + +<p>An upset canvas canoe supported me for an hour and a half +during a blow on Long Island Sound, and had not a passing +steamer rescued me, the canoe would evidently have buoyed me +up as long as I could have held on to the hull.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER IX<br /> +<small>HOW TO RIG AND SAIL SMALL BOATS</small></h2> + + +<h3>How to Make a Lee-Board for a Canoe</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Now</span> that the open canvas canoe has become so popular the +demand has arisen for some arrangement by which it may be +used with sails. Of course it is an easy matter to rig sails on almost +any sort of craft, but unless there is a keel or a centreboard +the boat will make lee-way, <i>i. e.</i>, it will have no hold on the water, +and when you try to tack, the boat will blow sideways, which may +be fraught with serious results. The only time that the author +ever got in a serious scrape with his canoe, was when he carelessly +sailed out in a storm, leaving the key to his fan centreboard at +the boat-house. Being unable to let down the centreboard, he +was eventually driven out to sea, and when he became too fatigued +to move quickly was capsized.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 610px;"><a id="Fig_140_2"></a><a id="Fig_140a"></a> +<img src="images/i_110.png" width="610" height="525" alt="drawings" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 140.—Lee-board. Fig. 140<i>a</i>.—Bolt and thumb-screw.</div> +</div> + +<p>Now to prevent such occurrences and to do away with the inconvenience +of the centreboard in an open canoe, various designs +of lee-boards have been made. A lee-board is, practically speaking, +a double centreboard. The paddle-like form of the blades +of the boards given in <a href="#Fig_140_2">Fig. 140</a> give them a good hold on the +water when they are below the surface, and they can also be allowed +to swing clear of the water when temporarily out of use. Or +they may be removed and stowed away in the canoe. As you +see by the diagram the two blades are connected by a spruce +rod; the blades themselves may be made of some hard wood, +like cherry, and bevelled at the edges like a canoe-paddle. +They should be a scant foot in width and a few inches over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> +two feet long, and cut out of three-quarter-inch material. The +spruce cross-bar is about one and a half inch in diameter, the +ends of which are thrust through a hole in the upper end of each +lee-board. A small hole is bored in the top of each lee-board, +down through the ends of the cross-board, and when a galvanized-iron +pin is pushed down through this hole, it will prevent the bar +from turning in its socket. A couple more galvanized-iron pins +or bars fit in holes in the spruce cross-bar, as shown in the diagram +(<a href="#Fig_140_2">Fig. 140</a>). At the top end of each of these metal bolts +is a thumb-screw which runs down over the thread of the bolt. +The bottom or lower end is bent at right angles that it may be +fitted under the gunwale of the canoe, and tightened by twisting +the thumb-screws. The advantage of this sort of arrangement +is that the lee-boards may be slid backward or forward and so<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> +adjusted that the canoe will sail in the direction in which it is +steered. The place where the lee-board is to be fastened can +only be found by experiment. When it is too far toward the +bow, the boat will show a desire to come up against the wind, +thus making work for the steersman to keep the wind in the sails. +If the lee-board is fastened too far toward the stern the canoe +will show a decided determination to swing around with its stern +to the wind, which is a dangerous trick for a well-trained craft to +indulge in.</p> + +<p>I have seen open canvas canoes at the outfitting stores marked +as low as seventeen dollars, but they usually cost twenty-five dollars +or more, and I would advise ambitious canoeists to build +their own canoes, and even to make their own lee-boards, +although it would be cheaper to buy the latter.</p> + + +<h3>How to Rig and Sail Small Boats</h3> + +<p>To have the tiller in one's own hands and feel competent, under +all ordinary circumstances, to bring a boat safely into port, +gives the same zest and excitement to a sail (only in a far greater +degree) that the handling of the whip and reins over a lively +trotter does to a drive.</p> + +<p>Knowing and feeling this, it was my intention to devote a couple +of chapters to telling how to sail a boat; but through the kind +courtesy of the editor of <i>The American Canoeist</i>, I am able +to do much better by giving my readers a talk on this subject by +one whose theoretical knowledge and practical experience renders +him pre-eminently fit to give reliable advice and counsel. The +following is what Mr. Charles Ledyard Norton, editor of the +above-mentioned journal, says:</p> + +<p>Very many persons seem to ignore the fact that a boy who +knows how to manage a gun is, upon the whole, less likely to be +shot than one who is a bungler through ignorance, or that a good +swimmer is less likely to be drowned than a poor one. Such, +however, is the truth beyond question. If a skilled sportsman is +now and then shot, or an expert swimmer drowned, the fault is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +not apt to be his own, and if the one who is really to blame had +received proper training, it is not likely that the accident would +have occurred at all. The same argument holds good with +regard to the management of boats, and the author is confident +that he merits the thanks of mothers, whether he receives them or +not, for giving their boys a few hints as to practical rigging and +sailing.</p> + +<p>In general, there are three ways of learning how to sail boats. +First, from the light of nature, which is a poor way; second, from +books, which is better; and third, from another fellow who knows +how, which is best of all. I will try to make this article as much +like the other fellow and as little bookish as possible.</p> + +<p>Of course, what I shall say in these few paragraphs will be +of small use to those who live within reach of the sea or some +big lake and have always been used to boats; but there are +thousands and thousands of boys and men who never saw the +sea, nor even set eyes on a sail, and who have not the least idea +how to make the wind take them where they want to go. I once +knew some young men from the interior who went down to the +sea-side and hired a boat, with the idea that they had nothing to +do but hoist the sail and be blown wherever they liked. The +result was that they performed a remarkable set of manœuvres +within sight of the boat-house, and at last went helplessly out to +sea and had to be sent after and brought back, when they were +well laughed at for their performances, and had reason to consider +themselves lucky for having gotten off so cheaply.</p> + +<p>The general principles of sailing are as simple as the national +game of "one ole cat." That is to say, if the wind always blew +moderately and steadily, it would be as easy and as safe to sail a +boat as it is to drive a steady old family horse of good and regular +habits. The fact, however, is that winds and currents are variable +in their moods, and as capable of unexpected freaks as +the most fiery of unbroken colts; but when properly watched +and humored they are tractable and fascinating playmates and +servants.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> + +<p>Now, let us come right down to first principles. Take a bit +of pine board, sharpen it at one end, set up a mast about a +quarter of the length of the whole piece from the bow, fit on a +square piece of stiff paper or card for a sail, and you are ready +for action. Put this in the water, with the sail set squarely +across (A, <a href="#Fig_141">Fig. 141</a>), and she will run off before the wind—which +is supposed to be blowing as indicated by the arrow—at a good +rate of speed. If she does not steer herself, put a small weight +near the stern, or square end; or, if you like, arrange a thin bit +of wood for a rudder.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 496px;"><a id="Fig_141"></a> +<img src="images/i_113.png" width="496" height="368" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 141. Lesson in sailing for beginners.</div> +</div> + +<p>Probably the first primeval man who was born with nautical +instincts discovered this fact, and, using a bush for a sail, +greatly astonished his fellow primevals by winning some prehistoric +regatta. But that was all he could do. He was as helpless +as a balloonist is in midair. He could go, but he could not +get back, and we may be sure that ages passed away before the +possibility of sailing to windward was discovered.</p> + +<p>Now, put up or "step" another mast and sail like the first, +about as far from the stern as the first is from the bow. Turn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +the two sails at an angle of forty-five degrees across the boat +(B or C, <a href="#Fig_141">Fig. 141</a>) and set her adrift. She will make considerable +progress across the course of the wind, although she will at +the same time drift with it. If she wholly refuses to go in the +right direction, place a light weight on her bow, so that she will +be a little "down by the head," or move the aftermost mast and +sail a little nearer to the stern.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 568px;"><a id="Fig_142"></a> +<img src="images/i_114.png" width="568" height="274" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 142.—Tacking.</div> +</div> + +<p>The little rude affair thus used for experiment will not actually +make any progress to windward, because she is so light that she +moves sidewise almost as easily as she does forward. With a +larger, deeper boat, and with sails which can be set at any angle, +the effect will be different. So long as the wind presses against +the after side of the sail, the boat will move through the water in +the direction of the least resistance, which is forward. A square +sail having the mast in the middle was easiest to begin with for +purposes of explanation; but now we will change to a "fore-and-aft" +rig—that is, one with the mast at the forward edge or "luff" +of the sail, as in <a href="#Fig_142">Fig. 142</a>. Suppose the sail to be set at the angle +shown, and the wind blowing as the arrow points. The boat cannot +readily move sidewise, because of the broadside resistance; +she does not move backward, because the wind is pressing on the +aftermost side of the sail. So she very naturally moves forward. +When she nears buoy No. 1, the helmsman moves the "tiller," or +handle of the rudder, toward the sail. This causes the boat to +turn her head toward buoy No. 2, the sail swings across to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> +other side of the boat and fills on that side, which now in turn becomes +the aftermost, and she moves toward buoy No. 2 nearly at +right angles to her former course. Thus, through a series of zigzags, +the wind is made to work against itself. This operation is +called "tacking," or "working to windward," and the act of turning, +as at the buoys No. 1 and No. 2, is called "going about."</p> + +<p>It will be seen, then, that the science of sailing lies in being +able to manage a boat with her head pointing at any possible +angle to or from the wind. Nothing but experience can teach +one all the niceties of the art, but a little aptitude and address will +do to start with, keeping near shore and carrying little sail.</p> + + +<h3>Simplest Rig Possible</h3> + +<p>I will suppose that the reader has the use of a broad, flat-bottomed +boat without any rudder. (See <a href="#Fig_143">Fig. 143</a>.) She cannot +be made to work like a racing yacht under canvas, but lots +of fun can be had out of her.</p> + +<p>Do not go to any considerable expense at the outset. Procure +an old sheet, or an old hay cover, six or eight feet square, +and experiment with that before spending your money on new +material. If it is a sheet, and somewhat weakly in its texture, +turn all the edges in and sew them, so that it shall not give way +at the hems. At each corner sew on a few inches of strong twine, +forming loops at the angles. Sew on, also, eyelets or small loops +along the edge which is intended for the luff of the sail, so that it +can be laced to the mast.</p> + +<p>You are now ready for your spars, namely, a mast and a +"sprit," the former a couple of feet longer than the luff of the sail, +and the latter to be cut off when you find how long you want it. +Let these spars be of pine, or spruce, or bamboo—as light as possible, +especially the sprit. An inch and a half diameter will do +for the mast, and an inch and a quarter for the sprit, tapering to +an inch at the top. To "step" the mast, bore a hole through one +of the thwarts (seats) near the bow and make a socket or step on +the bottom of the boat, just under the aforesaid hole—or if anything<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> +a trifle farther forward—to receive the foot of the mast. +This will hold the mast upright, or with a slight "rake" aft.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 636px;"><a id="Fig_143"></a> +<img src="images/i_116.png" width="636" height="404" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 143.—A simple rig.</div> +</div> + +<p>Lace the luff of the sail to the mast so that its lower edge will +swing clear by a foot or so of the boat's sides. Make fast to the +loop at D a stout line, ten or twelve feet long. This is called the +"sheet," and gives control of the sail. The upper end of the sprit, +C, E, is trimmed so that the loop at C will fit over it but not slip +down. The lower end is simply notched to receive a short line +called a "snotter," as shown in the detailed drawing at the right of +the cut (<a href="#Fig_143">Fig. 143</a>). It will be readily understood that, when the +sprit is pushed upward in the direction of C, the sail will stand +spread out. The line is placed in the notch at E and pulled up +until the sail sets properly, when it is made fast to a cleat or to a +cross-piece at F. This device is in common use and has its advantages, +but a simple loop for the foot of the sprit to rest in is +more easily made and will do nearly as well. H is an oar for +steering. Having thus described the simplest rig possible, we +may turn our attention to more elegant and elaborate but not +always preferable outfits.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Leg-of-Mutton Rig</h3> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 201px;"><a id="Fig_144"></a> +<img src="images/i_117.png" width="201" height="281" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 144.</div> +</div> +<p>One of the prettiest and most convenient rigs for a small +boat is known as the "leg-of-mutton sharpie rig" (<a href="#Fig_144">Fig. 144</a>). +The sail is triangular, and the sprit, instead of reaching to its +upper corner, stands nearly at right angles to the mast. It is held +in position at the mast by the devices already described. This +rig has the advantage of keeping the whole sail flatter than any +other, for the end of the sprit cannot "kick +up," as the phrase goes, and so the sail holds +all the wind it receives.</p> + + + +<p><a href="#Fig_145">Fig. 145</a> shows a device, published for the +first time in the <i>St. Nicholas Magazine</i> for +September, 1880, which enables the sailor to +step and unstep his mast, and hoist or lower +his sail without leaving his seat—a matter of +great importance when the boat is light and +tottlish, as in the case of that most beautiful +of small craft, the modern canoe, where the +navigator sits habitually amidships. The +lower mast (A, B, <a href="#Fig_145">Fig. 145</a>) stands about two and a half feet +above the deck. It is fitted at the head with a metal ferrule +and pin, and just above the deck with two half-cleats or other +similar devices (A). The topmast (C, D) is fitted at F with a +stout ring, and has double halyards (E) rove through or around +its foot. The lower mast being in position (see lower part of <a href="#Fig_145">Fig. +145</a>), the canoeist desiring to make sail brings the boat's head to +the wind, takes the topmast with the sail loosely furled in one +hand and the halyards in the other. It is easy for him by raising +this mast, without leaving his seat, to pass the halyards one on +each side of the lower mast and let them fall into place close to the +deck under the half-cleats at A. Then, holding the halyards taut +enough to keep them in position, he will hook the topmast ring +over the pin in the lower mast-heat and haul away (see top part +of <a href="#Fig_145">Fig. 145</a>). The mast will rise into place, where it is made fast.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> +A collar of leather, or a knob of some kind, placed on the topmast +just below the ring, will act as a fulcrum when the halyards +are hauled taut and keep the mast from working to and fro.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_145"></a> +<img src="images/i_118.png" width="600" height="984" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 145.—A new device.</div> +</div> + +<p>The advantages of the rig are obvious. The mast can be +raised without standing up, and in case of necessity the halyards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> +can be let go and the mast and sail unshipped and stowed below +with the greatest ease and expedition, leaving only the short lower +mast standing. A leg-of-mutton sail with a common boom along +the foot is shown in the cut as the most easily illustrated application +of the device, but there is no reason why it may not be applied +to a sail of different shape, with a +sprit instead of a boom, and a square +instead of a pointed head.</p> + +<h3>The Latteen Rig</h3> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 402px;"><a id="Fig_146"></a> +<img src="images/i_119.png" width="402" height="662" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 146.—The latteen rig.</div> +</div> + +<div class='unindent'>is recommended only for boats which +are "stiff"—not tottlish, that is. The +fact that a considerable portion of the +sail projects forward of the mast renders +it awkward in case of a sudden shift of +wind. Its most convenient form is +shown in <a href="#Fig_146">Fig. 146</a>. The arrangement +for shipping and unshipping the yard is +precisely like that shown in <a href="#Fig_145">Fig. 145</a>—a +short lower mast with a pin at the top +and a ring fitted to the yard. It has a +boom at the foot which is joined to the +yard at C by means of a hook or a +simple lashing, having sufficient play to allow the two spars to +shut up together like a pair of dividers. The boom (C, E) has, +where it meets the short lower mast, a half-cleat, or jaw, shown in +detail at the bottom of the cut (<a href="#Fig_146">Fig. 146</a>), the circle representing a +cross-section of the mast. This should be lashed to the boom, as +screws or bolts would weaken it. To take in sail, the boatman brings +the boat to the wind, seizes the boom and draws it toward him. +This disengages it from the mast. He then shoves it forward, when +the yard (C, D) falls of its own weight into his hands and can be +at once lifted clear of the lower mast. To keep the sail flat, it is +possible to arrange a collar on the lower mast so that the boom, +when once in position, cannot slip upward and suffer the sail to bag.</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>The Cat-Rig</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>so popular on the North Atlantic coast, is indicated in <a href="#Fig_148">Fig. 148</a>. +The spar at the head of the sail is called a "gaff," and, like the +boom, it fits the mast with semicircular jaws. The sail is hoisted +and lowered by means of halyards rove through a block near +the mast-head. The mast is set in the bows—"Chock up in the +eyes of her," as a sailor would say. A single leg-of-mutton sail will +not work in this position, because the greater part of its area is +too far forward of amidships. No rig is handier or safer than +this in working to windward; but off the wind—running before, +or nearly before it, that is—the weight of mast and sail, and the +pressure of the wind at one side and far forward, make the boat +very difficult and dangerous to steer. Prudent boatmen often +avoid doing so by keeping the wind on the quarter and, as it were, +tacking to leeward.</div> + +<p>This suggests the question of "jibing," an operation always +to be avoided if possible. Suppose the wind to be astern, and the +boat running nearly before it, it becomes necessary to change +your course toward the side on which the sail is drawing. The +safest way is to turn at first in the opposite direction, put the helm +"down" (toward the sail), bring the boat up into the wind, turn +her entirely around, and stand off on the new tack. This, however, +is not always possible. Hauling in the sheet until the sail +fills on the other side is "jibing"; but when this happens it goes +over with a rush that sometimes carries mast and sheet or upsets +the boat; hence the operation should be first undertaken in a light +wind. It is necessary to know how to do it, for sometimes a sail +insists upon jibing very unexpectedly, and it is best to be prepared +for such emergencies.</p> + + +<h3>How to Make a Sail</h3> + +<p>For the sails of small boats there is no better material than unbleached +twilled cotton sheeting. It is to be had two and a half +or even three yards wide. In cutting out your sail, let the selvage<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +be at the "leech," or after-most edge. This, of course, makes it +necessary to cut the luff and foot "bias," and they are very likely +to stretch in the making, so that the sail will assume a different +shape from what was intended. To avoid this, baste the hem +carefully before sewing, and "hold in" a little to prevent fulling. +It is a good plan to tack the material on the floor before cutting, +and mark the outline of the sail with pencil. Stout tape stitched +along the bias edges will make a sure thing of it, and the material +can be cut, making due allowance for the hem. Better take +feminine advice on this process. The hems should be half an +inch deep all around, selvage and all, and it will do no harm to +reinforce them with cord if you wish to make a thoroughly good +piece of work.</p> + +<p>For running-rigging, nothing is better than laid or braided +cotton cord, such as is used for awnings and sash-cords. If this +is not easily procured, any stout twine will answer. It can be +doubled and twisted as often as necessary. The smallest manila +rope is rather stiff and unmanageable for such light sails as ours.</p> + +<p>In fitting out a boat of any kind, iron, unless galvanized, is +to be avoided as much as possible, on account of its liability to +rust. Use brass or copper instead.</p> + + +<h3>Hints to Beginners</h3> + +<p>Nothing has been said about reefing thus far, because small +boats under the management of beginners should not be afloat +in a "reefing breeze." Reefing is the operation of reducing the +spread of sail when the wind becomes too fresh. If you will look +at <a href="#Fig_146">Fig. 146</a> you will see rows of short marks on the sail above the +boom. These are "reef-points"—bits of line about a foot long +passing through holes in the sail and knotted so that they will not +slip. In reefing, the sail is lowered and that portion of it between +the boom and the reef-points is gathered together, and the points +are tied around both it and the boom. When the lower row of points +is used it is a single reef. Both rows together are a double reef.</p> + +<p>Make your first practical experiment <i>with a small sail and</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +<i>with the wind blowing toward the shore</i>. Row out a little way, +and then sail in any direction in which you can make the boat go, +straight back to shore if you can, with the sail out nearly at right +angles with the boat. Then try running along shore with the sheet +hauled in a little and the sail on the side nearest the shore. You +will soon learn what your craft can do, and will probably find that +she will make very little, if any, headway to windward. This is +partly because she slides sidewise over the water. To prevent it +you may use a "lee-board"—namely, +a broad board hung over +the side of the boat (G, <a href="#Fig_143">Fig. 143</a>). +This must be held by stout lines, +as the strain upon it is very heavy. +It should be placed a little forward +of the middle of the boat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 496px;"><a id="Fig_147"></a> +<img src="images/i_122.png" width="496" height="312" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 147.—Making port.</div> +</div> + +<p>It must be on the side away from +the wind—the lee side—and must +be shifted when you go about. Keels and centreboards are +permanent contrivances for the same purpose, but a lee-board +answers very well as a makeshift, and is even used habitually +by some canoeists and other boatmen.</p> + +<p>In small boats it is sometimes desirable to sit amidships, +because sitting in the stern raises the bow too high out of water; +steering may be done with an oar over the lee side, or with "yoke-lines" +attached to a cross-piece on the rudder-head, or even to the +tiller. In this last case the lines must be rove through rings or +pulleys at the sides of the boat opposite the end of the tiller. +When the handle of the oar (H, <a href="#Fig_143">Fig. 143</a>)—or the tiller (F, <a href="#Fig_146">Fig. +146</a>) if a rudder is used—is pushed to the right, the boat will turn +to the left, and <i>vice versa</i>. The science of steering consists in +knowing when to push and how much to push—very simple, you +see, in the statement, but not always so easy in practice.</p> + +<p>The sail should be so adjusted in relation to the rest of the +boat that, when the sheet is hauled close in and made fast, the +boat, if left to herself, will point her head to the wind like a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> +weather-cock and drift slowly astern. If it is found that the +sail is so far forward that she will not do this, the fault may be +remedied by stepping the mast further aft or by rigging a small +sail near the stern. This is called a "dandy" or "steering sail," +and is especially convenient in a boat whose size or arrangement +necessitates sitting amidships. It may be rigged like the mainsail, +and when its sheet is once made fast will ordinarily take care of +itself in tacking.</p> + +<p>Remember that, if the wind freshens or a squall strikes you, +the position of safety is with the boat's head to the wind. When +in doubt what to do, push the helm down (toward the sail) and +haul in the slack of the sheet as the boat comes up into the wind. +If she is moving astern, or will not mind her helm—and of course +she will not if she is not moving—pull her head around to the wind +with an oar and experiment cautiously until you find which way +you can make her go.</p> + +<p>In making a landing, always calculate to have the boat's +head as near the wind as possible when she ceases to move, +this whether you lower your sail or not.</p> + +<p>Thus, if the wind is off shore, as shown at A, <a href="#Fig_147">Fig. 147</a>, land +at F or G, with the bow toward the shore. If the wind is from the +direction of B, land at E, with the bow toward B or at F; if at the +latter, the boom will swing away from the wharf and permit you +to lie alongside. If the wind is from D, reverse these positions. +If the wind comes from the direction of C, land either at F or G, +with the bow pointing off shore.</p> + +<p>If you have no one to tell you what to do, you will have to +feel your way slowly and learn by experience; but if you have +nautical instincts you will soon make your boat do what you wish +her to do as far as she is able. <i>But first learn to swim before you +try to sail a boat.</i></p> + +<p>Volumes have been written on the subject treated in these few +pages, and it is not yet exhausted. The hints here given are safe +ones to follow, and will, it is hoped, be of service to many a young +sailor in many a corner of the world.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER X<br /> +<small>MORE RIGS OF ALL KINDS FOR SMALL BOATS</small></h2> + +<div class='summary1'>How to Distinguish between a Ship, Bark, Brig, and Schooner—Merits +and Defects of Catboats—Advantages of the Sloop—Rigs +for Canoes—Buckeyes and Sharpies</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> two principal rigs for vessels are the fore-and-aft and the +square rig.</p> + +<p><b>Square rigged</b> consists in having the principal sails extended by +yards suspended at the middle (<a href="#Fig_159">Fig. 159</a>).</p> + +<p><b>Fore-and-aft rigged</b> is having the principal sails extended by +booms and gaffs suspended by their ends (<a href="#Fig_148">Figs. 148</a>, <a href="#Fig_149">149</a>, <a href="#Fig_150">150</a>, +<a href="#Fig_156">156</a>, and <a href="#Fig_161">161</a>).</p> + +<p>Barks, brigs, and ships are all more or less square rigged, but +schooners, sloops, and catboats are all fore-and-aft rigged. In +these notes the larger forms of boats are mentioned only because +of the well-known interest boys take in all nautical matters, but +no detailed description of the larger craft will be given. All that +is aimed at here is to give the salient points, so that the youngsters +will know the name of the rig when they see it.</p> + + +<h3>The Cat</h3> + +<p>There is a little snub-nosed American who, in spite of her short +body and broad waist, is deservedly popular among all our +amateur sailors.</p> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="drawings"> +<tr><td align="left"><div class="figleft" style="width: 260px;"><a id="Fig_148"></a> +<img src="images/i_125a.png" width="260" height="283" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 148.—The snub-nosed +American cat.</div> +</div></td><td align="left"><div class="figright" style="width: 429px;"><a id="Fig_149"></a> +<img src="images/i_125b.png" width="429" height="329" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 149.—Jib and mainsail.</div> +</div></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<p>The appreciation of her charms is felt and acknowledged by +all her companions without envy, not because of her saucy looks, +but on account of her accommodating manners.</p> + +<p>Possessing a rare ability for quick movement, and a wonderful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> +power to bore her way almost into the very eye of the wind, or +with double-reefed sail to dash through the storm or gently slide +up alongside of a wharf or dock as easily as a rowboat, the American +catboat, with her single mast "chock up in the eyes of her," +has made a permanent place for herself among our pleasure craft, +and is omnipresent in our crowded bays and harbors.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 427px;"><a id="Fig_150"></a> +<img src="images/i_125c.png" width="427" height="274" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 150.—Schooner rig for open boat. +Boom on mainsail, none on foresail.</div> +</div> + +<p>Knowing that there is little danger of the catboat losing its +well-earned popularity, and being somewhat familiar with many +of her peculiarities, I am free to say that this rig, notwithstanding +its numerous good points, has many serious defects as a school-ship, +and the beginner had better select some other rig with which +to begin his practice sailing.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 254px;"><a id="Fig_151"></a> +<img src="images/i_125d.png" width="254" height="317" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 151.—The balance lug.</div> +</div> + + +<p>First, the great sail is very heavy and difficult to hoist and reef. +Second, in going before the wind there is constant danger of jibing, +with serious results. Third, the catboat has a very bad habit +of rolling when sailing before the wind, and each time the boat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> +rolls from side to side she is liable to dip the end of her heavy +boom in the water and "trip herself up." When a boat trips <i>up</i> +she does not necessarily go <i>down</i>, but she is likely to upset, placing +the young sailors in an unenviable, if not a dangerous, position. +Fourth, when the craft begins to swagger before the wind she is +liable to "goose-neck"; that is, throw her boom up against the +mast, which is another accident fraught with the possibilities of +serious mischief.</p> + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="drawings"> +<tr><td align="left"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 214px;"><a id="Fig_152"></a> +<img src="images/i_126a.png" width="214" height="265" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 152.—Standing lug.</div> +</div></td><td align="left"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 332px;"><a id="Fig_153"></a> +<img src="images/i_126b.png" width="332" height="272" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 153.—Leg-of-mutton sail. +Jib and main sail rig.</div> +</div></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The catboat has no bowsprit, no jib, and no topsail (<a href="#Fig_148">Fig. 148</a>), +but that most graceful of all single-stickers,</p> + + +<h3>The Sloop</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>possesses several jibs, a bowsprit, and topsail. Besides these, +when she is in racing trim, a number of additional sails are used. +All our great racers are sloops, and this rig is the most convenient +for small yachts and cutters.</div> + +<h3>Racing Sloops</h3> + +<p>A racing sloop (<a href="#Fig_161">Fig. 161</a>) carries a mainsail, A, a fore staysail, +B, a jib, C, a gaff topsail, D, a club topsail, E, a baby jib topsail, +F, a No. 2 jib topsail, G, a No. 1 jib topsail, H, a balloon jib topsail, +J (<a href="#Fig_157">Fig. 157</a>), and a spinnaker, K (<a href="#Fig_157">Fig. 157</a>).</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_154"></a><a id="Fig_155"></a><a id="Fig_156"></a><a id="Fig_157"></a><a id="Fig_158"></a><a id="Fig_159"></a><a id="Fig_160"></a><a id="Fig_161"></a> +<img src="images/i_127.png" width="600" height="427" alt="drawings" /> +<div class="caption">Figs. 154-161.—Rigs that we meet at sea.</div> +</div> +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_127-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Jib and Mainsail</h3> + +<p>A small sloop's sails are a mainsail, jib, and topsail. A sloop +rig without topsail is called a jib and mainsail (<a href="#Fig_149">Fig. 149</a>).</p> + +<p>While every small-boat sailor should know a catboat and a +sloop when he sees them, and even be able to give the proper name +to their sails, neither of these rigs is very well suited for canoes, +sharpies, or other boats of the mosquito fleet; but the</p> + + +<h3>Schooner Rig</h3> + + + +<div class='unindent'>which is the form of boat generally used for the larger yachts, +is also very much used for open boats. As you can see, by referring +to <a href="#Fig_150">Fig. 150</a>, the schooner rig consists of a bowsprit, fore and +main mast, with their appropriate sails. Lately freight schooners +have appeared with four or more masts. For small boats two +adjustable masts and an adjustable bowsprit, as described in the +Rough and Ready, Chapter XIII, are best. The sails may be +sprit sails, Figs. 164-169; balance lug, <a href="#Fig_151">Fig. 151</a>; standing lug, <a href="#Fig_152">Fig. +152</a>; leg-of-mutton, <a href="#Fig_153">Fig. 153</a>, or the sliding gunter, <a href="#Fig_163">Fig. 163</a>.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 344px;"><a id="Fig_162"></a> +<img src="images/i_128a.png" width="344" height="327" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 162.—The buckeye.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 413px;"><a id="Fig_163"></a> +<img src="images/i_128b.png" width="413" height="258" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 163.—The sliding gunter.</div> +</div> + +<p>In the chapter on how to build the Rough and Ready, the sprit +sail is depicted and fully described.</p> + + +<h3>The Balance Lug</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>comes as near the square sail of a ship as any canvas used on +small boats, but you can see, by referring to the diagram, <a href="#Fig_151">Fig. 151</a>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> +that the leach and the luff are not parallel and that the gaff hangs +at an angle. To boom out the canvas and make it sit flat there +are three sticks extended across the sail from the front to the +back, luff to leach, called battens. This has caused some people +to call this a batten lug. Like the lateen sail, part of the balance +lug hangs before the mast and serves the purpose of a jib. This +rig is said to be easily managed and to possess good sailing qualities.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 335px;"><a id="Fig_164"></a> +<img src="images/i_129a.png" width="335" height="261" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 164.—Sharpie with sprit and +club leg-of-mutton sails.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 528px;"><a id="Fig_165"></a><a id="Fig_166"></a> +<img src="images/i_129b.png" width="528" height="409" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Showing detail of sprit club sail.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>The Standing Lug</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is another sail approaching the square in pattern (<a href="#Fig_152">Fig. 152</a>), and, +as any novice can see, is a good canvas with which to scud before +the wind. It is very convenient for open boats built to be propelled +by paddles. While the standing lug cannot point up to the +eye of the wind like a schooner or cat, it is very fast on the wind +or when running with the wind astern. Probably the safest form +of sail used is the old reliable</div> + + +<h3>Leg-of-Mutton Sail</h3> + +<p>This is used by the fishermen on their stanch little dories away +up on the coast of Maine, and by the "tide-water" people in their +"buckeyes" on Chesapeake Bay. The latter boat is very little +known outside of the locality where it makes its home, but, like +the New Haven sharpies, it is very popular in its own waters.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>The Buckeye</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>or "bugeye," as it is sometimes vulgarly called, has a great reputation +for speed and sea-going qualities. When it cannot climb +a wave it goes through it. This makes a wet boat in heavy +weather, but when you travel at a high rate of speed you can endure +a wet jacket with no complaint, especially when you feel +that, in spite of the fast-sailing qualities of this boat, it is considered +a particularly safe craft.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 174px;"><a id="Fig_167"></a> +<img src="images/i_130a.png" width="174" height="276" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 167.—Plain sprit +leg-of-mutton.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a id="Fig_168"></a><a id="Fig_169"></a> +<img src="images/i_130b.png" width="500" height="257" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Another form of the sprit sail.</div> +</div> + +<p>The construction of a <b>buckeye</b> (<a href="#Fig_162">Fig. 162</a>) has been evolved from +the old dugout canoe of the Indians and the first white settlers. +America was originally covered with vast forests of immense trees. +Remnants of these forests still exist in a few localities. It was +once possible to make a canoe of almost any dimensions desired, +but now in the thickly settled regions big trees are scarce.</p> + +<p>So the Chesapeake Bay boat-builders, while still adhering to the +old dugout, have overcome the disadvantage of small logs by +using more than one and bolting the pieces together. Masts and +sails have been added, and since the increased proportions made +it impracticable to drag such a craft on the beach when in port, +anchors and cables are supplied. Two holes bored, one on each +side of the stem, for the cables to run through, have given the +boat the appearance of having eyes, and as the eyes are large and +round, the negroes called them buckeyes, and this is now the +name by which all such craft are known.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span></p> + +<p>At first only two masts with leg-of-mutton sails were used, but +now they have a jib and two sails. With the greatest width or +beam about one-third the distance from bow to stern, sharp at +both ends, its long, narrow, and heavy hull is easily driven through +the water and makes both a fast and stiff boat.</p> + +<p>The buckeye travels in shallow as well as deep waters, and +hence is a centreboard boat, but there is nothing unnecessary on +the real buckeye—no overhanging bow or stern, for that means +additional labor; no stays to the masts, for the same reason. The +lack of stays to stiffen the masts leaves them with "springiness," +which in case of a sudden squall helps to spill the wind and prevents +what might otherwise be a "knock-down."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 381px;"><a id="Fig_170"></a> +<img src="images/i_131a.png" width="381" height="231" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 170.—Lug rig with jigger.</div> +</div> + + + +<p>The foremast is longer than the mainmast and does not rake +aft so much, but the mainmast has a decided rake, which the colored +sailors say makes the boat faster on the wind. Sometimes +in the smaller boats the mainmast can be set upright when going +before the wind.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 420px;"><a id="Fig_171"></a> +<img src="images/i_131b.png" width="420" height="251" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 171.—Lug rig with jigger and jib.</div> +</div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 126px;"><a id="Fig_172"></a> +<img src="images/i_132a.png" width="126" height="171" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 172.—Jib.</div> +</div> +<p>Wealthy gentlemen on the Chesapeake are now building regularly +equipped yachts on the buckeye plan, and some of them +are quite large boats. A correspondent of the <i>Forest and Stream</i>, +in speaking of the buckeye, says:</p> + +<p>"Last summer I cruised in company with a buckeye, forty-two +feet long, manned by two gentlemen of Baltimore city. She drew +twenty inches without the board. In sudden and heavy flaws she +was rarely luffed. She would lie over and appear to spill the wind<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span> +out of her tall, sharp sails and then right again. Her crew took +pleasure in tackling every sailing craft for a race; nothing under +seventy feet in length ever beat her. She steered under any two +of her three sails. On one occasion this craft, on her way from +Cape May to Cape Charles, was driven out to sea before a heavy +north-west blow. Her crew, the aforesaid gentlemen, worn out by +fatigue, hove her to and went to sleep. She broke her tiller lashing +during the night, and when they awoke she was pegging away +on a south-east course under her jib. They put her about, and in +twenty hours were inside Cape Henry, pretty well tired out. Buckeyes +frequently run from Norfolk to New York with fruit. For +shallow waters, I am satisfied there is no better craft afloat. +Built deep, with a loaded keel, they would rival the English cutter +in seaworthiness and speed."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;"><a id="Fig_173"></a> +<img src="images/i_132b.png" width="336" height="169" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 173.—Sprit sail, schooner rig, with dandy.</div> +</div> + +<p>When the hardy, bold fishermen of our Eastern States and the +brave fishermen down South both use the leg-of-mutton sail, +beginners cannot object to using it while practising; knowing that +even if it is a safe sail, it cannot be called a "baby rig." Another +safe rig, differing little from the leg-of-mutton, is the</p> + + +<h3>Sliding Gunter</h3> + +<p>In this rig the sail is laced to a yard which slides up or down +the mast by means of two iron hooks or travellers (<a href="#Fig_163">Fig. 163</a>). No +sail with a narrow-pointed top is very serviceable before the wind, +and the sliding gunter is no exception to the rule. But it is useful +on the wind, and can be reefed easily and quickly, qualities which +make it many friends.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p> + +<p>In the smooth, shallow waters along the coast of North Carolina +may be seen the long, flat-bottomed</p> + + +<h3>Sharpies</h3> + +<p>Without question they are to be ranked among the fastest boats +we have. These boats are rigged with a modification of the leg-of-mutton +sail. The ends of the sprit in the foresail project at the +luff and leach. At the luff it is fastened to the mast by a line like +a snotter at the leach. It is fastened to a stick sewed into the sail, +called a club. The sheet is attached to the end of the sprit +(Figs. 164-168).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 247px;"><a id="Fig_174"></a> +<img src="images/i_133a.png" width="247" height="157" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 174.—Sprit sail jib and dandy.</div> +</div> + + + + +<h3>The Sprit Leg-of-Mutton Sail</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>has this advantage, that the clew of the sail is much higher than +the tack, thus avoiding the danger of dipping the clew in the water +and tripping the boat.</div> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 261px;"><a id="Fig_175"></a> +<img src="images/i_133b.png" width="261" height="181" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 175.—The lateen rig with dandy.</div> +</div> + +<h3>The Dandy Jigger, or Mizzen Rig</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is named after the small sail aft, near the rudder-head. This +jigger, mizzen, or dandy may have a boom, a sprit, or be rigged +as a lug. (See <a href="#Fig_170">Figs. 170</a>, <a href="#Fig_171">171</a>, <a href="#Fig_173">173</a>, <a href="#Fig_174">174</a>, <a href="#Fig_175">175</a>, <a href="#Fig_178">178</a>, <a href="#Fig_180">180</a>, and <a href="#Fig_184">184</a>, +which show the principal mizzen rigs in use.)</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_176"></a><a id="Fig_177"></a><a id="Fig_178"></a><a id="Fig_179"></a><a id="Fig_180"></a><a id="Fig_181"></a><a id="Fig_182"></a><a id="Fig_183"></a><a id="Fig_184"></a> +<img src="images/i_134.png" width="600" height="715" alt="drawings of ships" /> +<div class="caption">Figs. 176-184.—Hybrid rigs for small boats; also two useful tackles.</div></div> +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_134-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> +<p>In puffy wind and lumpy water the main and mizzen rig will +be found to work well. The little sail aft should be trimmed as +flat as possible. It will be found of great help in beating to the +windward, and will keep the nose of the boat facing the wind<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a><br /><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> +when the mainsail is down. Different rigs are popular in different +localities. For instance:</p> + + +<h3>The Lateen Rig</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is very popular in some parts of the Old World, yet it has only +few friends here. It may be because of my art training that I feel +so kindly toward this style of sail, or it may be from association in +my mind of some of the happiest days of my life with a little black +canoe rigged with lateen sails. At any rate, in spite of the undeniable +fact that the lateen is unpopular, I never see a small boat +rigged in this style without a feeling of pleasure. The handy little +stumps of masts end in a spike at the top and are adorned by +the beautiful sails lashed to slender spars, which, by means of +metal rings, are lightly, but securely, fastened to the mast by +simply hooking the ring over the spike. I freely acknowledge that +when the sails are lowered and you want to use your paddle the +lateen sails are in your way. It is claimed that they are awkward +to reef, and this may be true. I never tried it. When the wind +was too strong for my sails I made port or took in either the large +or the small sail, as the occasion seemed to demand.</div> + + +<h3>The Ship</h3> + +<p>When you are out sailing and see a vessel with three masts, all +square rigged, you are looking at a ship proper, though ship is a +word often used loosely for any sort of a boat (<a href="#Fig_159">Fig. 159</a>).</p> + +<p><b>The bark</b> is a vessel with square-rigged foremast and mainmast +and a fore-and-aft rigged mizzen-mast (<a href="#Fig_160">Fig. 160</a>).</p> + +<p><b>The brig</b> is a vessel with only two masts, both of which are +square rigged (<a href="#Fig_158">Fig. 158</a>).</p> + +<p><b>The brigantine</b> has two masts—foremast square rigged and +mainmast fore-and-aft rigged (<a href="#Fig_155">Fig. 155</a>).</p> + +<p><b>The barkentine</b> has three masts—mainmast and mizzen-mast +fore-and-aft rigged and foremast square rigged. (See <a href="#Fig_154">Fig. 154</a>.)</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER XI<br /> +<small>KNOTS, BENDS, AND HITCHES</small></h2> + + +<div class='summary2'>How to Tie Knots Useful on Both Land and Water</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> art of tying knots is an almost necessary adjunct to not a +few recreations. Especially is this true of summer sports, many +of which are nautical or in some manner connected with the water.</p> + +<p>Any boy who has been aboard a yacht or a sail-boat must have +realized that the safety of the vessel and all aboard may be imperilled +by ignorance or negligence in the tying of a knot or fastening +of a rope.</p> + +<p>With some the knack of tying a good, strong knot in a heavy +rope or light cord seems to be a natural gift; it is certainly a very +convenient accomplishment, and one that with practice and a +little perseverance may be acquired even by those who at first +make the most awkward and bungling attempts.</p> + +<p>A bulky, cumbersome knot is not only ungainly, but is generally +insecure.</p> + +<p>As a rule, the strength of a knot is in direct proportion to its neat +and handsome appearance.</p> + +<p>To my mind it is as necessary that the archer should know how +to make the proper loops at the end of his bow-string as it is that +a hunter should understand how to load his gun.</p> + +<p>Every fisherman should be able to join two lines neatly and securely, +and should know the best and most expeditious method +of attaching an extra hook or fly; and any boy who rigs up a hammock +or swing with a "granny" or other insecure knot deserves +the ugly tumble and sore bones that are more than liable to result +from his ignorance.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span></p> + +<p>A knot, nautically speaking, is a "bend" that is more permanent +than a "hitch." A knot properly tied never slips, nor +does it jam so that it cannot be readily untied. A "hitch" might +be termed a temporary bend, as it is seldom relied upon for permanent +service. The "hitch" is so made that it can be cast off +or unfastened more quickly than a knot.</p> + +<p>It is impossible for the brightest boy to learn to make "knots, +bends, and hitches" by simply reading over a description of the +methods; for, although he may understand them at the time, +five minutes after reading the article the process will have escaped +his memory. But if he take a piece of cord or rope and sit down +with the diagrams in front of him, he will find little difficulty in +managing the most complicated knots; and he will not only acquire +an accomplishment from which he can derive infinite amusement +for himself and a means of entertainment for others, but the +knowledge gained may, in case of accident by fire or flood, be the +means of saving both life and property.</p> + +<p>The accompanying diagrams show a number of useful and +important bends, splices, etc. To simplify matters, let us commence +with <a href="#Fig_57">Fig. 57</a>, and go through the diagrams in the order in +which they come:</p> + +<p>The "English" or "common single fisherman's knot" (<a href="#Fig_185">Fig. +185</a>, I) is neat and strong enough for any ordinary strain. The +diagram shows the knots before being tightened and drawn together.</p> + +<p>When exceptional strength is required it can be obtained by +joining the lines in the ordinary single fisherman's knot (<a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, I) +and pulling each of the half knots as tight as possible, then drawing +them within an eighth of an inch of each other and wrapping +between with fine gut that has been previously softened in water, +or with light-colored silk.</p> + +<p>An additional line or a sinker may be attached by tying a knot +in the end of the extra line and inserting it between the parts of +the single fisherman's knot before they are drawn together and +tightened.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_185"></a> +<img src="images/i_138.png" width="600" height="746" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 185.—Some useful knots.</div> +</div> + +<p>The "fisherman's double half knot," <a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a> (II and III). +After the gut has been passed around the main line and through +itself, it is passed around the line once more and through the same +loop again and drawn close.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span></p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a> (IV, V, and IX). Here are three methods of joining +the ends of two lines together; the diagrams explain them +much better than words can. Take a piece of string, try each +one, and test their relative strength.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a> (VI). It often happens, while fishing, that a hook is +caught in a snag or by some other means lost. The diagram +shows the most expeditious manner of attaching another hook +by what is known as the "sinker hitch," described further on +(<a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, D, D, D, and <a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XIV, XV, and XVI).</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, VII is another and more secure method of attaching +a hook by knitting the line on with a succession of half-hitches.</p> + + +<h3>How to Make a Horse-Hair Watch-Guard</h3> + +<p>The same hitches are used in the manufacture of horse-hair +watch-guards, much in vogue with the boys in some sections of +the country. As regularly as "kite-time," "top-time," or "ball-time," +comes "horse-hair watch-guard time."</p> + +<p>About once a year the rage for making watch-guards used to +seize the boys of our school, and by some means or other almost +every boy would have a supply of horse-hair on hand. With the +first tap of the bell for recess, some fifty hands would dive into +the mysterious depths of about fifty pockets, and before the bell +had stopped ringing about fifty watch-guards, in a more or less incomplete +state, would be produced.</p> + +<p>Whenever a teamster's unlucky stars caused him to stop near +the school-house, a chorus of voices greeted him with "Mister, +please let us have some hair from your horses' tails."</p> + +<p>The request was at first seldom refused, possibly because its +nature was not at the time properly understood; but lucky was +the boy considered who succeeded in pulling a supply of hair +from the horses' tails without being interrupted by the heels of +the animals or by the teamster, who, when he saw the swarm of +boys tugging at his horses' tails, generally repented his first good-natured +assent, and with a gruff, "Get out, you young rascals!" +sent the lads scampering to the school-yard fence.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span></p> + +<p>Select a lot of long hair of the color desired; make it into a +switch about an eighth of an inch thick by tying one end in a +simple knot. Pick out a good, long hair and tie it around the +switch close to the knotted end; then take the free end of the single +hair in your right hand and pass it under the switch on one side, +thus forming a loop through which the end of the hair must pass +after it is brought up and over from the other side of the switch. +Draw the knot tight by pulling the free end of the hair as shown +by <a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, VII. Every time this operation is repeated a wrap +and a knot is produced. The knots follow each other in a spiral +around the switch, giving it a very pretty, ornamented appearance. +When one hair is used up select another and commence knitting +with it as you did with the first, being careful to cover and conceal +the short end of the first hair, and to make the knots on the second +commence where the former stop. A guard made of white +horse-hair looks as if it might be composed of spun glass, and produces +a very odd and pretty effect. A black one is very genteel +in appearance. These ornaments are much prized by cowboys, +and I have seen bridles for horses made of braided horsehair.</p> + + +<h3>Miscellaneous</h3> + +<p><a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, VIII shows a simple and expeditous manner of attaching +a trolling-hook to a fish-line.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, F is a hitch used on shipboard, or wherever lines +and cables are used. It is called the Blackwall hitch.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, E is a fire-escape made of a double bow-line knot, +useful as a sling for hoisting persons up or letting them down from +any high place; the window of a burning building, for instance. +<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XVIII, XIX, and XX show how this knot is made. It +is described on <a href="#Page_77">page 77</a>.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, A is a "bale hitch," made of a loop of rope. To make +it, take a piece of rope that has its two ends joined; lay the rope +down and place the bale on it; bring the loop opposite you up, on +that side of the bale, and the loop in front up, on the side of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span> +bale next to you; thrust the latter loop under and through the first +and attach the hoisting rope. The heavier the object to be lifted, +the tighter the hitch becomes. An excellent substitute for a shawl-strap +can be made of a cord by using the bale hitch, the loop at +the top being a first-rate handle.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, B is called a cask sling, and C (<a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>) is called a +butt sling. The manner of making these last two and their uses +may be seen by referring to the illustration. It will be noticed +that a line is attached to the bale hitch in a peculiar manner +(<i>a</i>, <a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>). This is called the "anchor bend." If while +aboard a sail-boat you have occasion to throw a bucket over for +water, you will find the anchor bend a very convenient and safe +way to attach a line to the bucket handle, but unless you are an +expert you will need an anchor hitched to your body or you will +follow the bucket.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, I and II are loops showing the elements of the simplest +knots.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, III is a simple knot commenced.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, IV shows the simple knot tightened.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, V and VI show how the Flemish knot looks when +commenced and finished.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, VII and VIII show a "rope knot" commenced and +finished.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, IX is a double knot commenced.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, X is the same completed.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XI shows a back view of the double knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XII is the first loop of a "bow-line knot." One end +of the line is supposed to be made fast to some object. After the +turn, or loop (<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XII), is made, hold it in position with your +left hand and pass the end of the line up through the loop, or turn, +you have just made, behind and over the line above, then down +through the loop again, as shown in the diagram (<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XIII); +pull it tight and the knot is complete. The "sinker hitch" is a +very handy one to know, and the variety of uses it may be put to +will be at once suggested by the diagrams.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 519px;"><a id="Fig_186"></a> +<img src="images/i_142.png" width="519" height="800" alt="drawings of knots" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 186.</div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span></p> + +<p>Lines that have both ends made fast may have weights attached +to them by means of the sinker hitch (<a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, D, D, D).</p> + +<p>To accomplish this, first gather up some slack and make it in +the form of the loop (<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XIV); bend the loop back on itself +(<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XV) and slip the weight through the double loop thus +formed (<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XVI); draw tight by pulling the two top lines, +and the sinker hitch is finished (<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XVII).</p> + +<p>The "fire-escape sling" previously mentioned, and illustrated +by <a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, E, is made with a double line.</p> + +<p>Proceed at first as you would to make a simple bow-line knot +(<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XVIII).</p> + +<p>After you have run the end loop up through the turn (<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, +XIX), bend it downward and over the bottom loop and turn, then +up again until it is in the position shown in <a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>, XX; pull it +downward until the knot is tightened, as in <a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, E, and it +makes a safe sling in which to lower a person from any height. +The longer loop serves for a seat, and the shorter one, coming +under the arms, makes a rest for the back.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXI is called a "boat knot," and is made with the +aid of a stick. It is an excellent knot for holding weights which +may want instant detachment. To detach it, lift the weight +slightly and push out the stick, and instantly the knot is untied.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXII. Commencement of a "six-fold knot."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXIII. Six-fold knot completed by drawing the +two ends with equal force. A knot drawn in this manner is said +to be "nipped."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXIV. A simple hitch or "double" used in making +loop knots.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXV. "Loop knot."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXVI shows how the loop knot is commenced.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXVII is the "Dutch double knot," sometimes called +the "Flemish loop."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXVIII shows a common "running knot."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXIX. A running knot with a check knot to hold.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXX. A running knot checked.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;"><a id="Fig_186_5"></a> +<img src="images/i_144t.png" width="368" height="572" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 186½.</div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span></p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXXI. The right-hand part of the rope shows how +to make the double loop for the "twist knot." The left-hand +part of the same rope shows a finished twist knot. It is made +by taking a half turn on both the right-hand and left-hand lines +of the double loop and passing the end through the "bight" +(loop) so made.</p> + + +<h3>Whiplashes</h3> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXXII is called the "chain knot," which is often +used in braiding leather whiplashes. To make a "chain knot," +fasten one end of the thong, or line; make a simple loop and pass +it over the left hand; retain hold of the free end with the right +hand; with the left hand seize the line above the right hand and +draw a loop through the loop already formed; finish the knot by +drawing it tight with the left hand. Repeat the operation until the +braid is of the required length, then secure it by passing the free +end through the last loop.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXXIII shows a double chain knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXXIV is a double chain knot pulled out. It shows +how the free end is thrust through the last loop.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, XXXV. Knotted loop for end of rope, used to prevent +the end of the rope from slipping, and for various other +purposes.</p> + + +<h3>Splices, Timber-Hitches, etc.</h3> + +<p>Although splices may not be as useful to boys as knots and +hitches, for the benefit of those among my readers who are interested +in the subject, I have introduced a few bands and splices +on the cables partly surrounding <a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>½.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>a</i> shows the knot and upper side of a "simple band."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>b</i> shows under side of the same.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>c</i> and <i>d</i> show a tie with cross-ends. To hold the ends +of the cords, a turn is taken under the strands.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_187"></a> +<img src="images/i_146t.png" width="600" height="323" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 187.</div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span></p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>e</i> and <i>f</i>: Bend with cross-strands, one end looped +over the other.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>g</i> shows the upper side of the "necklace tie."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>h</i> shows the under side of the same. The advantage +of this tie is that the greater the strain on the cords, the tighter +it draws the knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>i</i> and <i>j</i> are slight modifications of <i>g</i> and <i>h</i>.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>p</i> shows the first position of the end of the ropes for +making the splice <i>k</i>. Untwist the strands and put the ends of two +ropes together as close as possible, and place the strands of the one +between the strands of the other alternately, so as to interlace, as +in <i>k</i>. This splice should only be used when there is not time to +make the "long splice," as the short one is not very strong.</p> + +<p>From <i>l</i> to <i>m</i> is a long splice, made by underlaying the strands +of each of the ropes joined about half the length of the splice, and +putting each strand of the one between two of the other; <i>q</i> shows +the strands arranged for the long splice.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a> <i>n</i> is a simple mode of making a hitch on a rope.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>o</i> is a "shroud knot."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_186_5">Fig. 186½</a>, <i>r</i> shows a very convenient way to make a handle on +a rope, and is used upon large ropes when it is necessary for +several persons to take hold to pull.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, A. Combination of half-hitch and timber-hitch.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, B. Ordinary half-hitch.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, C. Ordinary timber-hitch.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, D. Another timber-hitch, called the "clove-hitch."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, E. "Hammock-hitch," used for binding bales of +goods or cloth.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, F. "Lark-head knot," used by sailors and boatmen +for mooring their crafts.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, P shows a lark-head fastening to a running knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, G is a double-looped lark-head.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, H shows a double-looped lark-head knot fastened to +the ring of a boat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"><a id="Fig_187_5"></a> +<img src="images/i_148.png" width="700" height="531" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 187½.—Timber-hitches, etc.</div> +</div> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, I is a "treble lark-head." To make it you must first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a><br /><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> +tie a single lark-head, then divide the two heads and use each +singly, as shown in the diagram.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, J shows a simple boat knot with one turn.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, K. "Crossed running knot." It is a strong and +handy tie, not as difficult to make as it appears to be.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, L is the bow-line knot, described by the diagrams +XII and XIII (<a href="#Fig_186">Fig. 186</a>). The free end of the knot is made fast +by binding it to the "bight," or the loop. It makes a secure sling +for a man to sit in at his work among the rigging.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187">Fig. 187</a>, M, N, and O. "Slip clinches," or "sailors' knots."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, Q shows a rope fastened by the chain-hitch. The +knot at the left-hand end explains a simple way to prevent a rope +from unravelling.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, R. A timber-hitch; when tightened the line binds +around the timber so that it will not slip.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, S. Commencement of simple lashing knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, T. Simple lashing knot finished.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, U. "Infallible loop;" not properly a timber-hitch, +but useful in a variety of ways, and well adapted for use in archery.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, V. Same as R, reversed. It looks like it might give +way under a heavy strain, but it will not.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, W. Running knot with two ends.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, X. Running knot with a check knot that can only +be opened with a marline-spike.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, Y. A two-ended running knot with a check to the +running loops. This knot can be untied by drawing both ends +of the cord.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, Z. Running knot with two ends, fixed by a double +Flemish knot. When you wish to encircle a timber with this +tie, pass the ends on which the check knot is to be through the +cords before they are drawn tight. This will require considerable +practice.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>a</i> shows an ordinary twist knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>a</i><sup>1</sup> shows the form of loop for builder's knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>b</i>. Double twist knot.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span></p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>c</i>. Builder's knot finished.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>d</i> represents a double builder's knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>e</i>. "Weaver's knot," same as described under the +head of Becket hitch (<a href="#Fig_185">Fig. 185</a>, V).</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>f</i>. Weaver's knot drawn tight.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>g</i> shows how to commence a reef knot. This is +useful for small ropes; with ropes unequal in size the knot is +likely to draw out of shape, as <i>m</i>.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>h</i> shows a reef knot completed.</p> + +<p>Of all knots, avoid the "granny"; it is next to useless under a +strain, and marks the tier as a "landlubber."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>i</i> shows a granny knot; <i>n</i> shows a granny under strain.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>j</i> shows the commencement of a common "rough +knot."</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>k</i>. The front view of finished knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>l</i>. The back view of finished knot. Although this +knot will not untie nor slip, the rope is likely to part at one side +if the strain is great. Awkward as it looks, this tie is very useful +at times on account of the rapidity with which it can be made.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>o</i> and <i>p</i>. Knot commenced and finished, used for +the same purposes as the Flemish knot.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>q</i> and <i>q</i><sup>1</sup>. An ordinary knot with ends used separately.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>s</i>. Sheep-shank, or dog-shank as it is sometimes +called, is very useful in shortening a line. Suppose, for instance, +a swing is much longer than necessary, and you wish to shorten +it without climbing aloft to do so, it can be done with a sheep-shank.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>r</i> shows the first position of the two loops. Take two +half hitches, and you have a bend of the form shown by <i>s</i>. Pull +tightly from above and below the shank, and you will find that +the rope is shortened securely enough for ordinary strain.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>t</i>. Shortening by loop and turns made where the end +of the rope is free.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>u</i>. A shortened knot that can be used when either +end is free.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span></p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>v</i>, <i>w</i>, and <i>x</i>. Shortening knots.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_187_5">Fig. 187½</a>, <i>y</i> and <i>z</i>. A "true lover's knot," and the last one that +you need to practise on, for one of these knots is as much as most +persons can attend to, and ought to last a lifetime.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 201px;"> +<img src="images/i_151.png" width="201" height="217" alt="drawing of cherub tying a knot" /> +</div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER XII<br /> +<small>HOW TO BUILD A CHEAP BOAT</small></h2> + + +<h3>The Yankee Pine</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> the saw-mills away up among the tributaries of the Ohio +River come floating down to the towns along the shore great +rafts of pine lumber. These rafts are always objects of interest +to the boys, for the youngsters know that when moored to the +shore the solidly packed planks make a splendid platform to +swim from. Fine springing-boards can be made of the projecting +blades of the gigantic sweeps which are used to guide the +mammoth rafts, and, somewhere aboard, there is always to be +found a "Yankee pine." Just when or why this style of skiff +was dubbed with such a peculiar name I am unable to state; +but this I know, that when a raft is to be broken up and carted +away to the lumber yards there is, or always used to be, a good, +light skiff to be had cheap.</p> + +<p>However, all boys do not live on the bank of the river, and if +they did there would hardly be "Yankee pines" enough to go +round; so we will at once proceed to see how to build one for ourselves. +Although my readers may find the "Yankee pine" a little +more difficult to build than the blunt-ended, flat-bottomed scow, +it really is a comparatively simple piece of work for boys familiar +with the use of carpenters' tools.</p> + +<p>For the side-pieces select two straight-grained pine boards free +from knots. These boards should be about 13 or 14 feet long, +a couple of inches over a foot in width, and as nearly alike as +possible in texture. Besides these there should be in the neighborhood +of a dozen other ¾-inch planks, an inch or two over a half<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> +foot in width. A small piece of 2-inch plank for the stern-piece is +also necessary. Upon the bottom edge of the side-board measure +off from each end toward the centre 4 inches, mark the points, and +saw off the corners shown by the dotted line in <a href="#Fig_188">Fig. 188</a>. Next +take a piece of board 4 feet long and a foot wide, saw off the corners +as you did on the side-board, making it 4 feet on the top and +3 feet 4 inches on the bottom. This board is to be used only as +a centre brace while modelling the boat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 390px;"><a id="Fig_188"></a> +<img src="images/i_153a.png" width="390" height="75" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 188.—Side-board.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 518px;"><a id="Fig_189"></a> +<img src="images/i_153b.png" width="518" height="155" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 189.—Frame.</div> +</div> + +<p>Out of the 2-inch plank make a stern-piece of the same shape +as the centre brace; let it be 1 foot wide, 14 inches long on the +bottom, and 20 inches long on top. Set the side-boards on their +shorter or bottom edges and place the centre brace in the middle, +as shown by <a href="#Fig_189">Fig. 189</a>; nail the side-boards to it, using only enough +nails to hold temporarily. Draw the side-boards together at the +bow and against the stern-board at the stern (<a href="#Fig_189">Fig. 189</a>). Hold the +side-pieces in position by the means of ropes. A stem should be +ready to fix in the bow (<a href="#Fig_190">Fig. 190</a>). This had better be a few inches +longer than the sides are broad, as it is a simple matter to saw off +the top after it is fitted. Make the stem of a triangular piece of +timber, by planing off the front edge until a flat surface about +½ inch broad is obtained; 2 inches from the front, upon each side, +cut a groove just the thickness of the side-boards (¾ inch). Trim<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span> +the stem so that the side-pieces at the bow fit the grooves snugly, +and nail the side-boards to the stem and to the stern-piece (<a href="#Fig_189">Fig. +189</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a id="Fig_190"></a> +<img src="images/i_154a.png" width="500" height="97" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 190.—Stem-piece.</div> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 593px;"><a id="Fig_191"></a> +<img src="images/i_154b.png" width="593" height="250" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 191.—Finished skiff.</div> +</div> + +<p>Turn the boat upside down, and it will be discovered that the +outlines of the bottom form an arch from stem to stern. If left +in this shape the boat will sink +too deep amidship. Remedy +the defect by planing the bottom +edge of both side pieces, +reducing the convex form to +straight lines in the middle. This will allow the bow and stern +to sheer, but at the same time will make the central part of +the bottom flat, and, by having less to drag through the water, +make it easier to row. Nail the bottom-boards on crosswise, +and as, on account of the form of the boat, no two boards will be +of the same size, they must be first nailed on and the projecting +ends sawed off afterward. The centre brace may now be taken +out and a long bottom-board nailed to the centre of the bottom +upon the inside of the boat (<a href="#Fig_191">Fig. 191</a>). Cut a small cross-piece +(B, <a href="#Fig_191">Fig. 191</a>) so that it will fit across the bow 3 inches below the +top of the side-boards. Nail it in place, driving the nails from the +outside of the side-board through and into the end of the stick B. +Saw out a bow seat, and, allowing the broad end to rest on the +cross-stick B, fit the seat in and secure it with nails (<a href="#Fig_191">Fig. 191</a>);<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span> +3 inches below the top of the stern-piece nail a cleat across. At +the same distance below the side-board put a cross-stick similar +to the one in the bow. This and the cleat on the stern-piece form +rests for the stern seat. Five feet from the stern saw a notch +2 inches deep and 1½ inch long in +each side-board (A, A<sup>1</sup>, <a href="#Fig_191">Fig. 191</a>). +Saw two more notches of the same +size 3 inches from the first; these +will make the rowlock when the +side strips have been fastened on.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 459px;"><a id="Fig_192"></a> +<img src="images/i_155a.png" width="459" height="166" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 192.—Keel board or skeg.</div> +</div> + +<p>These strips should each be made of 1-inch plank, 2 inches +wide and an inch or two longer than the side-boards. Nail the +strips on the outside of the boat flush with the top of the side-boards, +making a neat joint at the stern-piece, as shown in the illustration +(<a href="#Fig_191">Fig. 191</a>). Cut two short strips to fit upon the inside at +the rowlocks and fasten them firmly on with screws (<a href="#Fig_191">Fig. 191</a>, A). +Next cut two cleats for the oarsman's seat to rest upon. Nail +them to the side-boards amidship a little nearer the bottom than +the top, so that the seat, when resting upon the cleats, will be +about half the distance from the top edge to the bottom of the +side-boards. Let the aft end of the cleats be about 6 feet 2 inches +from the stern. Make thole-pins of some hard wood to fit in the +rowlocks, like those described +and illustrated +by <a href="#Fig_203">Figs. 203</a> and <a href="#Fig_204">204</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 417px;"> +<img src="images/i_155b.png" width="417" height="172" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Top view of "Man Friday."</div> +</div> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 184px;"><a id="Fig_193"></a> +<img src="images/i_156.png" width="184" height="394" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 193.—The side-boards.</div> +</div> +<p>The Yankee pine now +only needs a skeg to +complete it. This must +be placed exactly in the +centre, and is fastened +on by a couple of screws at the thin end and nails from the inside +of the boat. It is also fastened to the upright stick at the +stern by screws (<a href="#Fig_192">Fig. 192</a>).</p> + +<p>If the joints have been carefully made, your Yankee pine is +now ready for launching. Being made of rough lumber it needs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> +no paint or varnish, but is a sort of rough-and-ready affair, light +to row; and it ought to float four people with ease. By using +planed pine or cedar lumber, and +with hard-wood stem and stern, +a very pretty row-boat can be +made upon the same plan as a +Yankee pine, or by putting in +a centreboard and "stepping" a +mast in the bow, the Yankee +pine can be transformed into a +sail-boat. But before experimenting +in this line of boat-building, +the beginner had better read +carefully the chapter on how to +rig and sail small boats.</p> + + + + +<h3>How to Build a Better Finished +Boat</h3> + +<p>The old-time raftsmen formerly +built their "Yankee pines" +of the rough, unplaned boards +fresh from the saw-mills on the +river banks, and these raw, +wooden skiffs were stanch, light, +and tight boats, but to-day +smooth lumber is as cheap as +the rough boards, so select +enough planed pine lumber for +a 12½-foot boat, and you may +calculate the exact amount by reference to the accompanying +diagrams, which are all drawn as near as may be to a regular +scale.</p> + +<p>By reference to <a href="#Fig_193">Fig. 193</a> you will see that A, A represent +the two</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Side-Boards</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>These should be of sufficient dimensions to produce two side-pieces +each 13 feet long, 17 inches wide, and <small><sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub></small> inch thick (A, <a href="#Fig_194">Fig. +194</a>). You will also need a piece for a</div> + + +<h3>Spreader</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>54 inches long, 18 inches wide, and about 1½ inch thick, but +as this is a temporary affair almost any old piece of proper dimensions +will answer (B, <a href="#Fig_194">Fig. 194</a>), and another piece of good 1½-inch +plank (C, <a href="#Fig_194">Fig. 194</a>) 36 inches long by 15 inches wide, for a stern-piece. +Besides the above there must be enough 1-inch lumber to +make seats and to cover the bottom. At a point on one end, +6½ inches from the edge of the A plank, mark the point <i>c</i> (<a href="#Fig_194">Fig. 194</a>), +then measure 37 inches back along the edge of the plank and mark +the point <i>b</i> (<a href="#Fig_194">Fig. 194</a>). Rule a pencil line (<i>b</i>, <i>c</i>) between these two +points and starting at <i>c</i> saw off the triangle <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>d</i>. Make the second +side-board an exact duplicate of the one just described and +prepare the spreader by sawing off the triangle with 9-inch bases +at each end of B (<a href="#Fig_194">Fig. 194</a>). This will leave you a board (<i>h</i>, <i>k</i>, <i>o</i>, <i>n</i>) +that will be 36 inches long on its lower edge and 54 inches long on +its top edge.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_194"></a> +<img src="images/i_157.png" width="600" height="251" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 194.—A, the side. B, the spreader. C, the stern-piece.</div> +</div> +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_157-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + +<p>Next saw off the corners of the stern-piece C (<a href="#Fig_194">Fig. 194</a>) along<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span> +the lines <i>f</i>, <i>g</i>, the <i>g</i> points being each 6½ inches from the corners; +and a board (<i>ff</i>, <i>gg</i>) 18 inches wide and 30 inches top measurement, +with 23 inches at the bottom. Now fit the edge of the +stern-piece along the line <i>e</i>, <i>d</i> (<a href="#Fig_194">Fig. 194</a>), or at a slant to please your +fancy. In <a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>, upper C, the slant makes the base of the +triangle about 4½ inches, which is sufficient. Be careful that both +side-boards are fitted exactly alike, and to do this nail the port +side with nails driven only partly in, as shown at D (<a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>); +then nail the starboard side and, if they are both seen to be even +and of the right slant, drive the nails home; if not correct, the +nails may be pulled out by using a small block under the hammer +(D, <a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>), without bending the nails or injuring the wood. +Leave the stern-ends of the side-boards protruding, as in the +upper C, until you have the spreader and stem in place.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 669px;"><a id="Fig_195"></a> +<img src="images/i_158.png" width="669" height="373" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 195.—Details of the boat.</div> +</div> + +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_158-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + +<p>We are now ready for the spreader (<i>h</i>, <i>k</i>, <i>o</i>, <i>n</i>) (B, <a href="#Fig_194">Fig. 194</a>) +amidship, or, more accurately speaking, 6 feet 9 inches from +the bow (B, <a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>). Nail this as shown by D (<a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>), so +that the nails may be removed at pleasure. Bring the bow ends +of the A boards together and secure them by a strip nailed temporarily +across, as shown in the diagram E (<a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>).</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>The Stem-piece</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>may be made of two pieces, as is shown at G and F (<a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>) +or if you are more skilful than the ordinary non-professional, the +stem may be made of one piece, as shown by the lower diagram +at F (<a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>). It is desirable to have oak for the stem, but any +hard wood will answer the purpose, and even pine may be used +when no better is to be had. Take a piece of cardboard or an old +shingle on which to draw a pattern for the end of the stem and +make the outline with a lead-pencil by placing the shingle over +the apex <i>c</i> of diagram E (<a href="#Fig_195">Fig. 195</a>); from the inside trace the line +of the sides thus, <b>V</b>. Trim your stem down to correspond to these +lines and let the stick be somewhat longer than the width of the +sides A, A.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_196"></a> +<img src="images/i_159.png" width="600" height="290" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 196.—Put on a bottom of 1-inch boards.</div> +</div> + +<p>When this is done to your satisfaction, fit the stem in place and +nail the side boards to the stem.</p> + +<p>Turn the boat over and nail on a bottom of 1-inch boards as +shown by <a href="#Fig_196">Fig. 196</a>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Don't</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>use tongue and grooved or any sort of fancy cabinet or floor joining +when wet—such matched lumber warps up in waves—but +use boards with smooth, flat edges; if these are true and fitted +snugly together in workmanlike manner the first wetting will swell +them in a very short time, until not a drop of water will leak +through the cracks, for the reason that there will be none. Fit +the bottom-boards on regardless of their protruding ends, as these +may be sawed off after the boards are nailed in place.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 673px;"><a id="Fig_197"></a> +<img src="images/i_160.png" width="673" height="286" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 197.—Details of bow, stern, seats, and finished boat.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>The Seats</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>consist of a triangular one at the bow (J), the oarsman's seat +(L), and the stern seat (K, <a href="#Fig_197">Fig. 197</a>). The bow seat is made of +1-inch boards nailed to two cleats shown at M (<a href="#Fig_197">Fig. 197</a>). N +shows the bench for the stern seat and O explains the arrangement +of the oarsman's seat a little forward amidship. As may be +seen, it rests upon the cleats <i>x</i> (diagram O, <a href="#Fig_197">Fig. 197</a>), which are +fitted between two upright cleats on each side of the boat; this +makes a seat which will not slip out of place, and the cleats serve +to strengthen the sides of the otherwise ribless boat. Make the +cleats of 1 by 2 inch lumber and let the seat be about 12 inches +wide. The stern seat may be wider, 1½ feet at K and 4 or 5 inches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span> +more at the long sides of the two boards each side of K (<a href="#Fig_197">Fig. 197</a>). +Of course, it is not necessary to fit a board in against the stern-piece, +for a cleat will answer the purpose, but a good, heavy stern-piece +is often desirable and the board shown in diagram N (<a href="#Fig_197">Fig. +197</a>) will serve to add strength to the stern as well as to furnish a +firm rest for the stern seat, but it will also add weight.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><div class="caption">Fig. 198.</div><a id="Fig_198"></a><a id="Fig_199"></a> +<img src="images/i_161.png" width="600" height="288" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 199.—Fitting the skeg.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>The Keel-Board</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is an advisable addition to the boat, but may also be omitted without +serious results (H, <a href="#Fig_197">Fig. 197</a>).</div> + +<p>The keel-board should be 4½ inches wide, 1 inch thick, and +should be cut pointed, to fit snugly in the bow, and nailed in place +along the centre of the floor, before the seats are put in the boat. +A similar board along the bottom, joining the two cleats each side +of the skeg at <i>y</i> (<a href="#Fig_199">Fig. 199</a>) and extending to the bow will prevent +the danger of loosening the bottom-planks when bumping over +rifts, shallow places, or when the boat needs to be hauled on a +stony shore; this bottom-board may also be omitted to save time +and lumber and is not shown in the diagram.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>The Skeg</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is a triangular board (<a href="#Fig_198">Figs. 198</a> and <a href="#Fig_199">199</a>), roughly speaking, of +the same dimensions as the pieces sawed from the side-board +<i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>d</i> (<a href="#Fig_196">Fig. 196</a>). The stern-end will be about 7 inches wide and +it will taper off to nothing at <i>y</i> (<a href="#Fig_198">Fig. 198</a>). The skeg is held in +place by cleats of 1-inch lumber, 2 inches wide, nailed to the bottom +on each side of the skeg. To get the proper dimensions experiment +with the pieces sawed from the A boards and cut your +skeg board so that its bottom edge will be level with the bottom at +<i>y</i> (<a href="#Fig_198">Fig. 198</a>); the diagonal line, to correspond with the slant of +the stern, can be accurately drawn if the skeg is left untrimmed +until it is fastened in place.</div> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations"> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='3'><a id="Fig_200"></a><a id="Fig_201"></a><a id="Fig_202"></a><img src="images/i_162.png" width="670" height="212" alt="drawing" /> +</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><div class="caption">Fig. 200.</div></td> +<td align="center"><div class="caption">Fig. 201.<br />Rowlocks.</div></td> +<td align="center"><div class="caption">Fig. 202.</div></td></tr> +</table></div> + + + +<h3>To Fasten on the Skeg</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>rule a line from the centre of the stern to the centre of the bow +and toe-nail the skeg on along this line. This must be accurately +done or you will make a boat which will have an uncomfortable +tendency to move in circles. After toe-nailing the skeg to the bottom, +nail the two cleats, one on each side of the skeg, and let them +fit as closely as may be to the keel. Now saw off the stern-ends +of the cleats and lay a rule along the stern, as the stick is placed in +<a href="#Fig_198">Fig. 198</a>, where the boy has his finger; rule a pencil line across the +protruding end of the keel and saw off the end along the diagonal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span> +line, so that the stern-cleat <i>z</i> (<a href="#Fig_198">Fig. 198</a>) may be nailed in place to +finish the work.</div> + +<p>You can buy rowlocks of galvanized iron for about a quarter +of a dollar a pair; the brass ones are not expensive, but even when +the store furnishes the hardware there must be a firm support of +some sort to hold the rowlock.</p> + +<p>If you use the manufactured article, to be found at any hardware +store, the merchant will supply you with the screws, plates, +and rowlocks, but he will not furnish you with the blocks for the +holes in which the spindles of the rowlocks fit. <a href="#Fig_202">Fig. 202</a> shows a +rude, but serviceable, support for the lock made of short oaken +posts much in vogue in Pennsylvania, but <a href="#Fig_201">Fig. 201</a> is much better, +and if it is made of oak and bolted to the sides of the boat it will +last as long as the boat. <a href="#Fig_201">Fig. 201</a> may be put upon either the outside +or inside of the boat, according to the width amidship.</p> + + +<h3>A Guard Rail</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>or fender, of 1 by 2 inch lumber, alongside of and even with the +top of the side-boards, from bow to stern, gives finish and strength +to the craft; but in a cheap boat, or a hastily constructed one, this +may be omitted, as it is in these diagrams.</div> + +<p>If you are building your boat out of the convenient reach of +the hardware shop, you must make your own rowlocks. <a href="#Fig_200">Fig. +200</a> shows the crude ones formerly used by the raftsmen for the +Yankee pines, and <a href="#Fig_203">Figs. 203</a> and <a href="#Fig_204">204</a> show rowlocks made with the +oaken or hard-wood thole-pins fitting in holes cut for that purpose +in the form of notches (U, <a href="#Fig_204">Fig. 204</a>) in the side of the boat, +or as spaces left between the blocks, as shown by R (<a href="#Fig_203">Fig. 203</a>). +When the side-boards A, A of the boat are notched a cleat of hard +wood 5 or 6 inches wide, and extending some distance each side +of the side-boards, must be used, as is shown by diagram V (<a href="#Fig_204">Fig. +204</a>) and <a href="#Fig_203">Fig. 203</a>. The diagram R (<a href="#Fig_203">Fig. 203</a>) explains itself; +there is a centre block nailed to the side-board and two more each +side, leaving spaces for the thole-pins T (<a href="#Fig_203">Fig. 203</a>) to fit and +guarded by another piece (R) bolted through to the sides.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span></p> + +<p>If bolts are out of your reach, nails and screws may act as substitutes, +and <a href="#Fig_204">Fig. 204</a> will then be the best form of rowlock to +adopt.</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations"> +<tr><td align="left" colspan='2'><div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_203"></a><a id="Fig_204"></a> +<img src="images/i_164.png" width="600" height="154" alt="drawing" /> +</div> +</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><div class="caption">Fig. 203.</div></td> +<td align="center"><div class="caption">Fig. 204.</div></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center" colspan='2'><div class="caption">Thole-pins.</div></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>To fix the place for rowlocks, seat yourself in the oarsman's +seat, grasp the oars as in rowing, and mark the place which best +fits the reach of your arms and oars as in rowing. It will probably +be about 13 inches aft from the centre of the seat.</p> + + + + + + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_205"></a> +<img src="images/i_165.png" width="600" height="620" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 205.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>To Transform an Ordinary Skiff or Scow Into a Sailing-Boat</h3> + +<p>It is necessary to build the centreboard box and cut a hole +through the bottom of the boat. For the average row-boat or +skiff, you can make the centreboard box about 48 inches long +and not higher, of course, than the gunwales of the boat. Make +the box of 2-inch plank, and before nailing the sides together +coat the seams thoroughly with white lead so as to prevent it +from leaking. The centreboard should be made of 2-inch plank, +which when planed down and smoothed will be about 1<small><sup>7</sup>/<sub>8</sub></small> of an inch +thick, and the space in the box should be wide enough to allow it +to move freely up and down, with no danger of its jamming. A +hole should be cut in the bottom of the boat to correspond with the +opening in the centreboard box, which, with a 48-inch box, will +probably be an opening of 40 inches long and 1 inch wide. The +centreboard is hinged to the box by a bolt run through at the +point marked A on <a href="#Fig_205">Fig. 205</a>. The centreboard should move +freely on the bolt, but the bolt itself should fit tightly in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span> +sides of the box, otherwise the water will leak through. There +will be no danger of the bolt's turning in its socket if the +hole through the centreboard through which the bolt is thrust is +made large enough. The centreboard box should be generously +painted with white lead on the bottom edges where it fits on the +floor of the boat around the centreboard hole. The bottom of +the boat floor should also be coated with white lead and over this +a strip of muslin spread before the box is securely nailed to the floor +of the boat from the bottom or under side of the boat. When this +is done the muslin covering the hole can be cut away with a sharp<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span> +knife. A rope may then be fastened to the loose end of the centreboard +with a cross-stick attached to the end of the rope to prevent +it from slipping down the hole in the box. With this rope the +centreboard may be raised or lowered to suit the pleasure of the +sailor. (<a href="#Fig_205">Fig. 205</a>.)</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER XIII<br /> +<small>A "ROUGH-AND-READY" BOAT</small></h2> + +<div class='summary2'>Just What One Must Do to Build It—Detailed Instructions as to +How to Make the Boat and How to Rig It</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Good</span> straight-grained pine wood is, without doubt, the best +"all-around" wood for general use. It is easily whittled with a +pocket-knife; it works smoothly under a plane; can be sawed +without fatiguing the amateur carpenter; it is elastic and pliable; +therefore use pine lumber to build your boat.</p> + +<p>Examine the lumber pile carefully and select four boards nearly +alike. Do not allow the dealer or his men to talk you into taking +lumber with blemishes. The side pieces should be of straight-grained +wood, with no large knots and no "checks" (cracks) in +them, and must not be "wind shaken."</p> + +<p>Measure the wood and see that it is over twenty-two feet long +by one foot four or five inches wide and one inch thick. Trim +two of the side-pieces until they are exact duplicates (<a href="#Fig_206">Fig. 206</a>). +The stem-piece (or bow-piece) should be made from a triangular +piece of oak (<a href="#Fig_212">Fig. 212</a>), and it is wise to make it a few inches longer +than will be necessary, so that there may be no danger of finding, +after all your labor, that the stick is too short; much better too +long, for it is a simple matter to saw it off. Make a second stem-piece +(<a href="#Fig_213">Fig. 213</a>) of oak about one inch thick and the same length +as the first, and two or three inches wide, or twice as wide as the +thickness of the side-boards.</p> + + +<h3>The Stern-piece</h3> + +<p>The stern-piece can be fashioned out of two-inch pine boards, +and may be made as wide or narrow as you choose. A narrow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span> +stern makes a trim-looking craft. With your saw cut off the corner +of the tail-piece, so that it will be in the form of a blunted triangle +(<a href="#Fig_214">Fig. 214</a>), measuring three feet ten and one-half inches +across the base, three feet four inches on each side, and nine and +one-half inches at the apex. The base of the triangle will be the +top and the apex will be the bottom of the stern-board of your +boat.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_206"></a><a id="Fig_207"></a><a id="Fig_208"></a><a id="Fig_209"></a><a id="Fig_210"></a> +<img src="images/i_168.png" width="600" height="417" alt="drawings" /> +<div class="caption">Diagrams showing the construction of the rough-and-ready.</div> +</div> + +<p>Now make a brace on which to model your boat. Let it be of +two-inch pine wood, two and one-half feet wide and seven and +one-half feet long (<a href="#Fig_207">Fig. 207</a>). Measure twelve inches on one +edge of this board from each end toward the centre and mark the +points; then rule lines from these points diagonally across the +width of the board (A, B and C, D—Fig. 207), and saw off the +corners, as shown by the dotted line in <a href="#Fig_207">Fig. 207</a>.</p> + +<p>Lay the boards selected for the lower side-boards on a level floor +and measure off one and one-half foot on the bottom edge, then<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span> +in a line with the end of the board mark a point on the floor that +would be the top edge of the board if the board were two and one-half +feet wide; rule a line from the point on the floor to the point +marked on the board and saw off the corner as marked; make the +other side-piece correspond exactly with the first (<a href="#Fig_206">Fig. 206</a>).</p> + + +<h3>Use Rope for Binding</h3> + +<p>Set the side-pieces upon their bottoms or shorter edges and place +the brace between the sides. Now bind the stern ends with a +rope and bring the bow-pieces together until they touch; rope +them in this position, and when all is fast push the brace up until +it rests at a point nine feet from the bow; fasten it here with a +couple of nails driven in, but leaving their heads far enough from +the wood to render it easy to draw them out. Now adjust the +bow-piece, and use the greatest of care in making the sides exactly +alike, otherwise you will wonder how you happened to have such +an unaccountable twist in your craft. When the stem is properly +adjusted fasten on the side-boards with screws. Do not try to +hammer the screws in place, but bore holes first and use a screwdriver.</p> + +<p>Take your stern-piece and measure the exact width of the stern +end of the bottom-boards and mark it at the bottom of the stern-piece; +or, better still, since the stern-board will set at an angle, put +it temporarily in place, bind it fast with the ropes, and mark with +a pencil just where the side-boards cross the ends of the +stern-board. Remove the stern-board and saw out a piece one inch +wide, the thickness of the bottom-board, from the place marked +to the bottom of the stern-board. Because the top side-board +overlaps the bottom one at the stern, there must be either a large +crack left there or the stern-board notched to fit the side-boards +(<a href="#Fig_214">Fig. 214</a>). Replace the stern-board and nail side-boards fast +to it; now loosen the ropes which have held your boat in shape, +and fit on the upper side-boards so that at the stern they will overlap +the lower side-boards an inch. Hold in place with your rope, +then bring the bow end up against the stern-piece over the top of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> +the lower side-board and fasten it in place with a rope. With your +carpenter's pencil mark the overlap, and with a plane made for +that purpose, called a rabbet, trim down your board so that it will +have a shoulder and an overlap to rest on the bottom-board, running +out to nothing at the bow. When the boards fit all right +over the lower ones bind them in place and then nail them there +(<a href="#Fig_208">Fig. 208</a>). If you can obtain two good boards of the requisite +size, you need have but one board for each side of your boat; +this will obviate the necessity of using the rabbet, and be very +much easier; but with single boards of the required dimensions +there is great danger of splitting or cracking while bending the +boards.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 681px;"><a id="Fig_211"></a><a id="Fig_212"></a><a id="Fig_213"></a><a id="Fig_214"></a><a id="Fig_215"></a> +<img src="images/i_170.png" width="681" height="464" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">The rough-and-ready.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>Planing the Bottom</h3> + +<p>Turn the boat upside down and you will see that there is a decided +arch extending from stem to stern. This would cause the +boat to sink too deep amidship, and must be remedied to some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> +extent by cutting away the middle of the arch, so that the sides +in the exact centre will measure at least four inches less in width +than at the bow and stern, and reducing the convex or curved form +to a straight line in the middle, which will give a sheer to the bow +and stern. A good plane is the best tool to use for this purpose, +as with it there is no danger of cutting too deep or of splitting the +side-boards. Saw off the projecting ends of the side-boards at the +stern.</p> + +<p>Make the bottom of three-quarter-inch boards, they may be +bevelled like <a href="#Fig_231">Fig. 231</a>. Lay the boards crosswise, nail them in +place, leaving the irregular ends projecting on each side. The +reason for this is obvious. When you look at the bottom of the +boat you will at once see that on account of the form no two +boards can be the same shape, and the easiest way is to treat the +boat bottom as if it were a square-sided scow. Fit the planks +closely together, nail them on securely, and then neatly saw off +the projecting ends (<a href="#Fig_210">Fig. 210</a>).</p> + + +<h3>The Deck</h3> + +<p>The brace may now be removed by carefully drawing the nails, +so that a bottom plank trimmed to fit the bow and the stern can +be securely nailed in place (<a href="#Fig_216">Fig. 216</a>). Cut a notch in your brace +to fit tightly over the bottom plank just laid. Plane off the top +of the brace so that when in the boat the top of the brace will be +four inches below the top of the side-boards. Replace the brace +and securely nail it. Next cut two small cross-pieces (F, G, <a href="#Fig_209">Fig. +209</a>) and place them near the bow, four inches below the top of the +sides of the boat. Drive the nails from the outside through the +side-boards into the end of F and G, the cross-brace. Cut out a +bow-piece to fit from the middle of G to the bow and nail it in +place, driving the nails from the outside into the edge of the bow-piece. +Fasten a small cleat along the boat from the solid board +brace to F on each side and deck the space over with light lumber.</p> + +<p>Of the same material make a trap door to fit in between the +braces F and G. This door should be big enough for a boy to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span> +reach through, for this compartment is intended as a safe place to +store cooking utensils, foods, etc., as well as a water-tight compartment. +At a point five feet from the stern put another cross-brace, +similar to the ones in the bow, four inches below the top of the +sides. At the same level nail a cleat on the stern-piece and make +a stern seat by boarding over between the cross-piece and the cleat. +When your boat is resting securely on the floor or level ground rig +a temporary seat, then take an oar and by experiment find just +where the rowlock will be most convenient and mark the spot. +Also mark the spot best suited for the seat. On each side of the +spot marked for the rowlock cut two notches in the side-boards +two inches deep, one and a half inch wide, and three inches +apart. Saw two more notches exactly like these upon the opposite +side of your boat. These will make the rowlocks when the side-strips +are nailed on (<a href="#Fig_216">Fig. 216</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 689px;"><a id="Fig_216"></a> +<img src="images/i_172.png" width="689" height="201" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 216.—Top view of rough-and-ready, with tiller stick.</div> +</div> + +<p>The side-strips should each be made of one-inch plank three +inches wide and a few inches longer than the side-boards. Nail +the strips on the outside of the boat flush with the top of the side-boards. +Make your thole-pins of some hard wood, and make +two sets of them while you are about it, "one set to use and one +set to lose." Screw a hard-wood cleat on the inside of your boat +over each pair of rowlocks, as shown in <a href="#Fig_216">Fig. 216</a>.</p> + + +<h3>Ready for the Water</h3> + +<p>Fasten the remaining bow-piece securely over the ends of your +side-boards, and the nose of your craft is finished.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span></p> + +<p>Put a good, heavy keel on your boat by screwing it tightly in the +stern to the hard-wood rudder-post that is fastened to the centre +of the stern; bolt your keel with four iron bolts (<a href="#Fig_211">Fig. 211</a>) to the +bottom of the boat, and the ship is ready to launch, after which +she can be equipped with sails and oars.</p> + +<p>Of course, you understand that all nail-holes and crevices +should be puttied up, and if paint is used, it must be applied before +wetting the boat. But if you have done your work well, there +will be little need of paint or putty to make it tight after the wood +has swelled in the water. Fasten your rudder on with hooks and +screw-eyes, and make it as shown in the diagram (<a href="#Fig_211">Fig. 211</a>). +Step your mainmast in the bow through a round hole in the deck +and a square hole in the step, which must, of course, be screwed +tightly to the bottom before the bow is decked over.</p> + +<p>Step your jigger or dandy mast in the stern after the same manner. +These masts should neither of them be very large, and are +intended to be removed at pleasure by unstepping them, that is, +simply pulling them out of their sockets. An outrigger will be +found necessary for your dandy-sail, and since the deck aft is below +the sides of the boat, a block of wood will have to be nailed to +the deck to the starboard, or right-hand, side of the rudder-post. +If the builder chooses, he can make the decks flush with the sides +of the boat and thus avoid blocks. A couple of staples for the +out-rigger to slip through are next in order. They must be fastened +firmly in the block or stick of wood just nailed to the deck. +A similar arrangement can be made for the bowsprit, but as it is +a movable bowsprit, and the stem of the boat is in the way, put +it to the port, or left-hand, side of the stem of the craft (<a href="#Fig_216">Fig. 216</a>).</p> + + +<h3>How to Make the Sail</h3> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 201px;"><a id="Fig_217"></a> +<img src="images/i_174.png" width="201" height="646" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 217, with tiller.—Rudder lines.</div> +</div> +<p>Secure for a sail material as strong as you can find, but it need +not be heavy. Unbleached muslin is cheap and will make good +sails. Turn over the edges and sew or hem them, as in the diagram. +Make eyelets like button-holes in the luff of the sail—that +is, the edge of the sail nearest the mast. Sew a small loop of rope<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> +in each corner of the sail. Through +the eyelets lace the luff of the sail to +the mast.</p> + +<p>From spruce or pine make a sprit +two inches in diameter. For a "sheet"—that +is, the rope or line that you +manage the sail with—tie a good stout +line about a dozen feet long to the +loop in the loose corner of the sail. +Trim the upper end of the sprit to fit +the loop in the top of the sail and make +a simple notch in the other end to hold +the line called the "snotter."</p> + +<p>Now, as you can readily see by referring +to <a href="#Fig_211">Fig. 211</a>, when the sprit is +pushed into the loop at the top of the +sail the sail is spread. To hold it in +place make a cleat like the one in the +diagram and bind it firmly with a +cord to the sprit; pass the snotter, or +line, fastened to the mast through the +notch in the sprit up to the cleat and +make fast, and the sail is set. The +jigger, or dandy, is exactly like the +mainsail except in size, and the sheet +rope is run through a block or pulley +at the end of the outrigger and then +made fast to a cleat near the man at +the rudder or helm. The jib is a +simple affair hooked on a screw-eye in +the end of the bowsprit. The jib halyard, +or line for hoisting the jib, runs +from the top of the jib through a screw-eye in the top of the mast, +down the port side of the mast to a cleat, where it is made fast. +When the jib is set the jib-sheets are fastened to a loop sewed in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span> +the jib at the lower or loose end. There are two jib-sheets, one +for each side of the boat, so that one may be made fast and the +other loosened, according to the wind. The remaining details +you must study out from the diagrams or learn by experiment.</p> + + +<h3>How to Reef Her</h3> + +<p>When the wind is high reef your sails by letting go the snotter +and pulling out the sprit. This will drop your peak and leave +you with a simple leg-of-mutton sail. Only use the jib in light +weather.</p> + +<p>In this boat, with a little knowledge of sailing, you may cruise +for weeks, lowering your sails at night and making a tent over the +cock-pit for a sleeping-room. Sails with boom and gaffs may be +used if desired.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span></p> + + + + +<h2>CHAPTER XIV<br /> +<small>HOW TO BUILD CHEAP AND SUBSTANTIAL HOUSE-BOATS</small></h2> + +<div class='summary2'>Plans for a House-Boat that May Be a Camp or Built as Large +as a Hotel</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> the great West of the United States began to attract immigrants +from the Eastern coast settlements, the Ohio River +rolled between banks literally teeming with all sorts of wild game +and wilder men: then it was that the American house-boat had its +birth.</p> + +<p>The Mississippi, Ohio, and their tributaries furnished highways +for easy travel, of which the daring pioneers soon availed themselves.</p> + +<p>Lumber was to be had for the labor of felling the trees. From +the borders of the Eastern plantations to the prairies, and below +the Ohio to the Mississippi, and from the Great Lakes to the Gulf +of Mexico, was one vast forest of trees; trees whose trunks were +unscarred by the axe, and whose tall tops reached an altitude +which would hardly be believed by those of this generation, who +have only seen second, third, or fourth growth timber.</p> + +<p>When the settlement of this new part of the country began it was +not long before each stream poured out, with its own flood of +water,</p> + + +<h3>A Unique Navy</h3> + +<p>There were keel-boats, built something like a modern canal-boat, +only of much greater dimensions; there were broad-horns, +looking like Noak's arks from some giant's toy-shop, and there +were flat-boats and rafts, the latter with houses built on them, all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span> +recklessly drifting, or being propelled by long sweeps down the current +into the great solemn, unknown wilderness.</p> + +<p>Every island, had it a tongue, could tell of wrecks; every point +or headland, of adventure.</p> + +<p>The perils were great and the forest solemn, but the immigrants +were merry, and the squeaking fiddle made the red man rise up +from his hiding-place and look with wonder upon the "long +knives" and their squaws dancing on the decks of their rude crafts, +as they swept by into the unknown.</p> + +<p>The advent of the steam-boat gradually drove the flat-boat, +broad-horn, keel-boat, and all the primitive sweep-propelled craft +from the rivers, but many of the old boatmen were loath to give +up so pleasant a mode of existence, and they built themselves +house-boats, and, still clinging to their nomadic habits, took their +wives, and went to house-keeping on the bosom of the waters they +loved so well.</p> + +<p>Their descendants now form what might well be called a race +of river-dwellers, and to this day their quaint little arks line the +shores of the Mississippi and its tributaries.</p> + + +<h3>Some of These House-Boats</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>are as crudely made as the Italian huts we see built along the railroads, +but others are neatly painted, and the interiors are like the +proverbial New England homes, where everything is spick-and-span.</div> + +<p>Like the driftwood, these boats come down the stream with +every freshet, and whenever it happens that the waters are particularly +high they land at some promising spot and earn a livelihood +on the adjacent water, by fishing and working aboard the +other river-craft, or they land at some farming district, and as the +waters recede they prop up and level their boats, on the bank, with +stones or blocks of wood placed under the lower corners of their +homes.</p> + +<p>The muddy waters, as they retire, leave a long stretch of fertile +land between the stranded house and the river, and this space is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span> +utilized as a farm, where ducks, chickens, goats and pigs are +raised and where garden-truck grows luxuriantly.</p> + +<p>From a boat their home has been transformed to a farm-house; +but sooner or later there will be another big freshet, and when +the waters reach the late farm-house, lo! it is a boat again, and goes +drifting in its happy-go-lucky way down the current. If it escapes +the perils of snags and the monster battering-rams, which the rapid +current makes of the drifting trees in the flood, it will land again, +somewhere, down-stream.</p> + +<p>Lately, while on a sketching trip through Kentucky, I was +greatly interested in these boats, and on the Ohio River I saw +several making good headway against the four-mile-an-hour current. +This they did by the aid of</p> + + +<h3>Big Square Sails</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>spread on a mast planted near their bows, thus demonstrating +the practicability of the use of sails for house-boats.</div> + +<p>The house-boats to be described in this article are much better +adapted for sailing than any of the craft used by the water-gypsies +of the Western rivers.</p> + +<p>For open and exposed waters, like the large lakes which dot +many of our inland States, or the Long Island Sound on our coast, +the following plans of the American boy's house-boat will have to +be altered, but the alterations will be all in the hull. If you make +the hull three feet deep it will have the effect of lowering the cabin, +while the head-room inside will remain the same. Such a craft +can carry a good-sized sail, and weather any gale you are liable +to encounter, even on the Sound, during the summer months.</p> + +<p>Since the passing away of the glorious old flat-boat days, idle +people in England have introduced the</p> + + +<h3>House-Boat as a Fashionable Fad</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>which has spread to this country, and the boys now have a new +source of fun, as a result of this English fad.</div> + +<p>There are still some nooks and corners left in every State in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span> +Union which the greedy pot-hunter and the devouring saw-mill +have as yet left undisturbed, and at such places the boy boatmen +may "wind their horns," as their ancestors did of old, and have +almost as good a time. But first of all they must have a boat, and +for convenience the American boy's house-boat will probably be +found to excel either a broad-horn +or a flat-boat model, it +being a link between the two.</p> + +<p>The simplest possible house-boat +is a Crusoe raft,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> with a +cabin near the stern and a +sand-box for a camp-fire at the +bow. A good time can be had aboard even this primitive craft. +The next step in evolution is the long open scow, with a cabin +formed by stretching canvas over hoops that reach from side to +side of the boat (see <a href="#Fig_218">Fig. 218</a>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 517px;"><a id="Fig_218"></a> +<img src="images/i_179.png" width="517" height="194" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 218.—A primitive house-boat.</div> +</div> + +<p>Every boy knows how to build</p> + + +<h3>A Flat-Bottomed Scow</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>or at least every boy should know how to make as simple a craft +as the scow, but for fear some lad among my readers has neglected +this part of his education, I will give a few hints which he may +follow.</div> + + +<h3>Building Material</h3> + +<p>Select lumber that is free from large knots and other blemishes. +Keep the two best boards for the sides of your boat. With your +saw cut the side boards into the form of <a href="#Fig_219">Fig. 219</a>; see that they +are exact duplicates. Set the two pieces parallel to each other +upon their straight or top edges, as the first two pieces shown +in <a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>. Nail on an end-piece at the bow and stern, as the +bumper is nailed in <a href="#Fig_221">Figs. 221</a> and <a href="#Fig_222">222</a>; put the bottom on as +shown in <a href="#Fig_196">Figs. 196</a> and <a href="#Fig_210">210</a>, and you have a simple scow.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Centrepiece</h3> + +<p>In <a href="#Fig_219">Fig. 219</a> you will notice that there are two sides and a centrepiece, +but this centrepiece is not necessary for the ordinary open +boat, shown by <a href="#Fig_218">Fig. 218</a>. Here you have one of the simple forms +of house-boat, and you can make it of dimensions to suit your convenience. +I will not occupy space with the details of this boat, +because they may be seen by a glance at the diagrams, and my purpose +is to tell you how to build the American boy's house-boat, +which is a more elegant craft than the rude open scow, with a canvas-covered +cabin, shown by <a href="#Fig_218">Fig. 218</a>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 676px;"><a id="Fig_219"></a> +<img src="images/i_180.png" width="676" height="318" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 219.—Unfinished.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>The Sides of the House-Boat</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>are 16 feet long, and to make them you need some sound two-inch +planks. After selecting the lumber plane it off and make the +edges true and straight. Each side and the centrepiece should +now measure exactly 16 feet in length by 14 inches in width, and +about 2 inches thick. Cut off from each end of each piece a triangle, +as shown by the dotted lines at G, H, I (<a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>); from H +to G is 1 foot, and from H to I is 7 inches. Measure from H to I +7 inches, and mark the point. Then measure from H to G, 12<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span> +inches, and mark the point. Then, with a carpenter's pencil, +draw a line from G to I, and saw along this line. Keep the two +best planks for the sides of your boat, and use the one that is left +for the centrepiece. Measure 2 feet on the top or straight edge +of your centrepiece, and mark the point A (<a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>). From A +measure 8 feet 10 inches, and mark the point C (<a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>).</div> + +<p>With a carpenter's square rule the lines A, B and C, D, and +make them each 10 inches long, then rule the line B, D (<a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>). +The piece A, B, C, D must now be carefully cut out: this can be +done by using the saw to cut A, B and D, C. Then, about 6 +inches from A, saw another line of the same length, and with a +chisel cut the block out. You then have room to insert a rip-saw, +at B, and can saw along the line B, D until you reach D, when the +piece may be removed, leaving the space A, B, D, C for the cabin +of the boat (see <a href="#Fig_221">Figs. 221</a> and <a href="#Fig_222">222</a>.)</p> + +<p>At a point 9 inches from the bow of the boat make a mark on +the centrepiece, and another mark 5 inches farther away, at F +(<a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>). With the saw cut a slit at each mark, 1 inch deep, +and with a chisel cut out, as shown by the dotted lines; do the +same at E, leaving a space of 1½ feet between the two notches, +which are made to allow the two planks shown in the plan (<a href="#Fig_221">Fig. +221</a>) to rest on. These planks support the deck and the hatch, +at the locker in the bow. The notches at E and F are not on the +side-boards, the planks being supported at the sides by uprights, +<a href="#Fig_221">Figs. 221</a> and <a href="#Fig_222">222</a>.</p> + +<p>All that now remains to be done with the centrepiece is to saw +some three-cornered notches on bottom edge, one at bow, one at +stern, and one or two amidship; this is to allow the water which +may leak in to flow freely over the whole bottom, and to prevent it +from gathering at one side and causing your craft to rest upon +an uneven keel.</p> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations"> +<tr><td align="left"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 66px;"><a id="Fig_220"></a> +<img src="images/i_182a.png" width="66" height="600" alt="drawing" /> +</div></td><td align="left"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 309px;"><a id="Fig_221"></a> +<img src="images/i_182b.png" width="309" height="600" alt="drawings" /> +</div></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><div class="caption">Fig. 220.—Center board of house boat.</div> +</td><td align="left"><div class="caption">Fig. 221.—Plan of house boat.</div> +</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger versions of these +images, click <a href="images/i_182-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + + +<p>Next select a level piece of ground near by and arrange the +three pieces upon some supports, as shown in <a href="#Fig_219">Fig. 219</a>, so that +from outside to outside of side-pieces it will measure just 8 feet +across the bow and stern. Of 1-inch board</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a><br /><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>Make Four End-Pieces</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>for the bow and stern (see A, A´, <a href="#Fig_219">Fig. 219</a>), to fit between the +sides and centrepiece. Make them each a trifle wider than H, +I, <a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>, so that after they have been fitted they can be trimmed +down with a plane, and bevelled on the same slant as the bottom +at G, I, <a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>. It being 8 feet between the outside of each +centrepiece, and the sides and the centrepiece being each 2 inches +thick, that gives us 8 feet 6 inches, or 7½ feet as the combined +length of A and A´ (<a href="#Fig_219">Fig. 219</a>). In other words, each end-piece +will be half of 7½ feet long—that is, 3 feet 9 inches long. After +making the four end-pieces, each 3 feet 9, by 9 inches, fit the ends +in place so that there is an inch protruding above and below. +See that your bow and stern are perfectly square, and nail with +wire nails through the sides into A and A´; toe-nail at the centrepiece—that +is, drive the nails from the broad side of A and A´ +slantingly, into the centrepiece, after which trim down with your +plane the projecting inch on bottom, to agree with the slant of the +bottom of the boat.</div> + + +<h3>Now for the Bottom</h3> + +<p>This is simple work. All that is necessary is to have straight, +true edges to your one-inch planks, fit them together, and nail them +in place. Of course, when you come to the slant at bow and stern +the bottom-boards at each end will have to have a bevelled edge, +to fit snugly against the boards on the flat part of the bottom of +the boat; but any boy who is accustomed to shake the gray matter +in his brain can do this. Remember, scientists say that thought +is the agitation of the gray matter of the brain, and if you are going +to build a boat or play a good game of football you must shake +up that gray stuff, or the other boys will put you down as a "stuff." +No boy can expect to be successful in building a boat, of even the +crudest type, unless he keeps his wits about him, so I shall take +it for granted that there are no "stuffs" among my readers.</p> + +<p>After the boards are all snugly nailed on the bottom, and fitted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span> +together so that there are no cracks to calk up; the hull is ready to +have</p> + + +<h3>The Bumpers</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>nailed in place, at bow and stern. See the plan, <a href="#Fig_221">Fig. 221</a>, and +the elevation, <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>. The bumpers must be made of 2-inch +plank, 8 feet long by about 9 inches wide; wide enough to cover +A and A´ of <a href="#Fig_219">Fig. 219</a>, and to leave room for a bevel at the bottom +edge to meet the slant of the bow and stern, and still have room +at the top to cover the edge of the deck to the hull (see <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>).</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 683px;"><a id="Fig_222"></a> +<img src="images/i_184.png" width="683" height="299" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 222.—Cross-section of boat</div> +</div> +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_184-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + +<h3>The Hull May Now Be Painted</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>with two coats of good paint, and after it is dry may be turned +over and allowed to rest on a number of round sticks, called rollers.</div> + +<p>If you will examine <a href="#Fig_221">Fig. 221</a> you will see there</p> + + +<h3>Twenty-Odd Ribs</h3> + +<p>These are what are called two-by-fours-that is, 2 inches thick +by 4 inches wide. They support the floor of the cabin and forward +locker, at the same time adding strength to the hull.</p> + +<p>The ribs are each the same length as the end-board. A and A´ +of <a href="#Fig_219">Fig. 219</a>, are nailed in place in the same manner. Each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span> +bottom-rib must have a notch 2 inches deep cut in the bottom +edge to allow the free passage of water, so as to enable you to +pump dry. Commencing at the stern, the distance between the +inside of the bumper and the first rib is 1 foot 6 inches. This is a +deck-rib, as may be seen by reference to <a href="#Fig_221">Figs. 221</a> and <a href="#Fig_222">222</a>. After +measuring 1½ foot from the bumper, on inside of side-board, mark +the point with a carpenter's pencil. Measure the same distance +on the centrepiece, and mark the point as before; then carefully +fit your rib in flush or even with the top of the side-piece, and fasten +it in place by nails driven through the side-board into the end of +the rib, and toe-nailed to centrepiece. Do the same with its mate +on the other side of centrepiece.</p> + + +<h3>The Cabin of this House-Boat</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is to fit in the space, A, B, D, C of the centrepiece, <a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>. +There is to be a one-inch plank at each end (see <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>), next +to which the side-supports at each end of cabin fit. The supports +are two-by-twos; so, allowing 1 inch for the plank and 2 inches +for the upright support, the next pair of ribs will be just 3 inches +from A B, <a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>, of the centrepiece (see <a href="#Fig_221">Figs. 221</a> and <a href="#Fig_222">222</a>). +The twin ribs at the forward end of the cabin will be the same +distance from D C, <a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>, as shown in the plan and elevation, +<a href="#Fig_221">Figs. 221</a> and <a href="#Fig_222">222</a>. This leaves five pairs of ribs to be distributed +between the front and back end of the cabin. From the outside +of each end-support to the inside of the nearest middle-support +is 2 feet 6 inches. Allowing 2 inches for the supports, this will +place the adjoining ribs 2 feet 8 inches from the outside of the +end-supports. The other ribs are placed midway between, as +may be seen by the elevation, <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>.</div> + +<p>There is another pair of</p> + + +<h3>Deck-Ribs</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>at the forward end of the cabin, which are placed flush with the +line D, C, <a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a> (see <a href="#Fig_221">Figs. 221</a> and <a href="#Fig_222">222</a>). The two pairs of ribs +in the bow are spaced, as shown in the diagram. This description<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span> +may appear as if it was a complicated affair; but you will find it a +simple thing to work out if you will remember to allow space for +your pump in the stern, space for the end-planks at after and forward +end of cabin, and space for your uprights. The planks at +after and forward end of cabin are to box in the cabin floor.</div> + + +<h3>The Boat May Now Be Launched</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>by sliding it over the rollers, which will not be found a difficult +operation.</div> + + +<div class='unindent'>The Plans Show Three Lockers</div> + +<div class='unindent'>—two in the bow under the hatch and one under the rear bunk—but +if it is deemed necessary the space between-decks, at each +side of the cabin, may be utilized as lockers. In this space you +can store enough truck to last for months. A couple of doors in +the plank at the front of the cabin opening, under the deck, will +be found very convenient to reach the forward locker in wet +weather.</div> + + +<h3>The Keel</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is a triangular piece of 2-inch board, made to fit exactly in the middle +of the stern, and had best be nailed in place before the boat is +launched (see <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>). The keel must have its bottom edge +flush with the bottom of the boat, and a strip of hard-wood nailed +on the stern-end of the keel and bumper, as shown in the diagram. +A couple of strong screw-eyes will support the rudder.</div> + +<p>After the boat is launched the</p> + + +<h3>Side-Supports for the Cabin May Be Erected</h3> + +<p>These are "two-by-twos" and eight in number, and each 5 feet +9 inches long. Nail them securely at their lower ends to the adjoining +ribs. See that they are plumb, and fasten them temporarily +with diagonal pieces, to hold the top ends in place, while you +nail down the lower deck or flooring.</p> + +<p>Now fit and nail the two 1-inch planks in place, at the bow and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span> +stern-end of the cabin, each of which has its top one inch above the +sides, even with the proposed deck (see dotted lines in <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>).</p> + + +<h3>Use Ordinary Flooring</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>or if that is not obtainable use ¾-inch pine boards, and run them +lengthwise from the bow to the front end of the cabin and along +the sides of the cabin. Then floor the cabin lengthwise from bow +to stern. This gives you a dry cabin floor, for there are 4 inches +of space underneath for bilge-water, which unless your boat is +badly made and very leaky, is plenty of room for what little water +may leak in from above or below. The two side-boards of the +cabin floor must, of course, have square places neatly cut out to +fit the uprights of the cabin. This may be done by slipping the +floor-board up against the uprights and carefully marking the +places with a pencil where they will come through the board, +and then at each mark sawing two inches in the floor plank, and +cutting out the blocks with a chisel.</div> + + +<h3>The Hatch</h3> + +<p>Now take a "four-by-four" and saw off eight short supports +for the two 1-inch planks which support the hatch, Figs. 221 and +222. Toe-nail the middle four-by-four to the floor in such a position +that the two cross-planks (which are made to fit in the notches +E and F, <a href="#Fig_220">Fig. 220</a>) will rest on the supports. Nail the four other +supports to the side-boards of your boat, and on top of these nail +the cross-planks, as shown in the diagrams.</p> + +<p>The boat is now ready for its</p> + + +<h3>Upper Deck</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>of 1-inch pine boards. These are to be nailed on lengthwise, bow +and stern and at sides of cabin, leaving, of course, the cabin open, +as shown by the position of the boys in <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>, and an opening, +3 feet by 2, for the hatch (<a href="#Fig_221">Fig. 221</a>). The two floors will act as +benches for the uprights of the cabin, and hold them stiff and +plumb.</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span></p> + +<p>To further stiffen the frame, make two diagonals for the stern-end, +as shown in <a href="#Fig_223">Fig. 223</a>, and nail them in place.</p> + + +<h3>The Rafters</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>or roof-rods, should extend a foot each way beyond the cabin, +hence cut them two feet longer than the cabin, and after testing +your uprights, to see that they are exactly plumb, nail the two side +roof-rods in place (see dotted lines in <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>). The cross-pieces +at the ends, as they support no great weight, may be fitted between +the two side-rods, and nailed there.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 392px;"><a id="Fig_223"></a> +<img src="images/i_188.png" width="392" height="371" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 223.—End view.</div> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span></p> + +<p>The roof is to be made of ½-inch boards bent into a curve, and +the ridge-pole, or centre roof-rod, must needs have some support. +This is obtained by two short pieces of 2 by 4, each 6 inches long, +which are toe-nailed to the centre of each cross-rod, and the ridge-pole +nailed to their tops. At 3 feet from the upper deck the side +frame-pieces are toe-nailed to the uprights. As may be seen, there +are three two-by-fours on each side (<a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>).</p> + +<p>The space between the side frame-pieces, the two middle uprights, +and side roof-rods, is where the windows are to be placed.</p> + +<p>Use ½-inch (tongue and groove preferred) pine boards for +sidings, and</p> + + +<h3>Box In Your Cabin</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>neatly, allowing space for windows on each side, as indicated. +Leave the front open. Of the same kind of boards make your +roof; the boards being light you can bend them down upon each +side and nail them to the side roof-rods, forming a pretty curve, +as may be seen in the illustration of the American boy's house-boat.</div> + + +<h3>This Roof</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>to be finished neatly and made entirely water-proof, should be +covered with tent-cloth or light canvas, smoothly stretched over +and tacked upon the under side of the projecting edges. Three +good coats of paint will make it water-proof and pleasant to look +upon.</div> + +<p>The description, so far, has been for a neatly finished craft, but +I have seen very serviceable and comfortable house-boats built of +rough lumber, in which case the curved roof, when they had one, +had narrow strips nailed over the boards where they joined each +other or was covered with tar-paper.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a id="Fig_224"></a> +<img src="images/i_190.png" width="500" height="434" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 224.—End view.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>To Contrive a Movable Front</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>to your cabin, make two doors to fit and close the front opening, +but in place of hanging the doors on hinges, set them in place. +Each door should have a good strong strap nailed securely on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span> +inside, for a handle, and a batten or cross-piece at top and bottom +of inside surface. A 1½ by 4, run parallel to the front top +cross-frame and nailed there, just a sufficient distance from it to +allow the top of the door to be inserted between, will hold the top +of the door securely. A two-by-four, with bolt-holes near either +end to correspond with bolt-holes in the floor, will hold the bottom +when the door is pushed in place, the movable bottom-piece +shoved against it and the bolts thrust in (see <a href="#Fig_225">Fig. 225</a>, view from +inside of cabin. <a href="#Fig_226">Fig. 226</a>, side view). It will be far less work to +break in the side of the cabin than to burst in such doors, if they +are well made. These doors possess this advantage: they can be +removed and used as table-tops, leaving the whole front open to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span> +the summer breeze, or one may be removed, and still allow plenty +of ventilation. A moulding on deck around the cabin is not +necessary, but it will add finish and prevent the rain-water from +leaking in.</div> + +<p>To lock up the boat you must set the doors from the inside, +and if you wish to leave the craft locked you must crawl out of the +window and fasten the latter with a lock.</p> + + + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations"> +<tr><td align="left"><div class="figleft" style="width: 266px;"><a id="Fig_225"></a> +<img src="images/i_191a.png" width="266" height="334" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 225.—Inside view of door.</div> +</div></td> +<td align="left"><div class="figright" style="width: 178px;"><a id="Fig_226"></a> +<img src="images/i_191b.png" width="178" height="443" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig 226—Side view +of door.</div> +</div></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><a href="#Fig_227">Fig. 227</a> shows the construction of</p> + + +<h3>The Rudder</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>and also an arrangement by which it may be worked from the +front of the boat, which, when the boat is towed, will be found +most convenient.</div> + +<p>The hatch should be made of 1-inch boards, to fit snugly flush +with the deck, as in the illustration, or made of 2-inch plank, +and a moulding fitted around the opening, as shown in <a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>A Pair of Rowlocks</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>made of two round oak sticks with an iron rod in their upper ends, +may be placed in holes in the deck near the bow, and the boat can +be propelled by two oarsmen using long "sweeps," which have +holes at the proper places to fit over the iron rods projecting from +the oaken rowlocks. These rowlocks may be removed when not +in use, and the holes closed by wooden plugs, while the sweeps +can be hung at the side of the cabin, under its eaves, or lashed fast +to the roof.</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 523px;"><a id="Fig_227"></a> +<img src="images/i_192.png" width="523" height="228" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 227.—Side elevation.</div> +</div> + + +<h3>Two or More Ash Poles</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>for pushing or poling the boat over shallow water or other difficult +places for navigation are handy, and should not be left out of the +equipment. The window-sashes may be hung on hinges and +supplied with hooks and screw-eyes to fasten them open by hooking +them to the eaves when it is desired to let in the fresh air. All +window openings should be protected by wire netting to keep +out insects.</div> + +<p>Two bunks can be fitted at the rear end of the cabin, one +above the other, the bottom bunk being the lid to a locker (see +<a href="#Fig_222">Fig. 222</a>).</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>The Locker</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>is simply a box, the top of which is just below the deck-line and +extending the full width of the cabin. It has hinges at the back, +and may be opened for the storage of luggage.</div> + +<p>Over the lid blankets are folded, making a divan during the +day and a bed at night.</p> + +<p>The top bunk is made like the frame of a cheap cot, but in place +of being upholstered it has a strong piece of canvas stretched +across it. This bunk is also hinged to the back of the cabin, so +that when not in use it can be swung up against the roof and fastened +there as the top berth in a sleeping-car is fastened. Four +4 by 4 posts can be bolted to the side-support at each corner of +the bottom bunk; they will amply support the top bunk, as the +legs do a table-top when the frame is allowed to rest upon their +upper ends. This makes accommodation for two boys, and +there is still room for upper and lower side bunks, the cabin +being but six feet wide. If you put bunks on both sides you will +be rather crowded, it is true, but by allowing a 1-foot passage in +the middle, you can have two side bunks and plenty of head room. +This will accommodate four boys, and that is a full crew for a boat +of this size.</p> + +<p>On board a yacht I have often seen four full-grown men +crowded into a smaller space in the cabin, while the sailormen +in the fo'-castle had not near that amount of room.</p> + + +<h3>A More Simple Set of Plans</h3> + +<p>Here the cabin is built on top of the upper deck, and there are +no bottom-ribs, the uprights being held in place by blocks nailed +to the bottom of the boat, and by the deck of the boat. This is +secure enough for well-protected waters, small lakes, and small +streams. Upon the inland streams of New York State I have seen +two-story house-boats, the cabin, or house, being only a framework +covered with canvas. One such craft I saw in central New +York, drifting downstream over a shallow riff, and as it bumped<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span> +along over the stones it presented a strange sight. The night was +intensely dark, and the boat brightly lighted. The lights shone +through the canvas covering, and this big, luminous house went +bobbing over the shallow water, while shouts of laughter and the +"plinky-plunk" of a banjo told in an unmistakable manner of the +jolly time the crew were having.</p> + + +<h3>Canvas-Cabined House-Boat</h3> + +<p>If you take an ordinary open scow and erect a frame of uprights +and cross-pieces, and cover it with canvas, you will have just such +a boat as the one seen in central New York. This boat may be +propelled by oars, the rowers sitting under cover, and the canvas +being lifted at the sides to allow the sweeps to work; but of course +it will not be as snug as the well-made American boy's house-boat, +neither can it stand the same amount of rough usage, wind, and +rain as the latter boat.</p> + +<p>In the frontispiece the reader will notice a stove-pipe at the stern; +there is room for a small stove back of the cabin, and in fair +weather it is much better to cook outside than inside the cabin. +When you tie up to the shore for any length of time, a rude +shelter of boughs and bark will make a good kitchen on the land, +in which the stove may be placed, and you will enjoy all the fun +of a camp, with the advantage of a snug house to sleep in.</p> + +<p>For the benefit of boys who doubt their ability to build a boat +of this description, it may be well to state that other lads have used +these directions and plans with successful results, and their boats +now gracefully float on many waters, a source of satisfaction and +pride to their owners.</p> + + +<h3>Information for Old Boys</h3> + +<p>On all the Western rivers small flat-boats or scows are to be had +at prices which vary in accordance with the mercantile instincts +of the purchaser, and with the desire of the seller to dispose of his +craft. Such boats are propelled by "sweeps," a name used to +designate the long poles with boards on their outer edges that serve<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span> +as blades and form the oars. These boats are often supplied with +a deck-house, extending almost from end to end, and if such a +house is lacking one may be built with little expense. The cabin +may be divided into rooms and the sleeping apartments supplied +with cheaply made bunks. It is not the material of the bunk +which makes it comfortable—it is the mattress in the bunk upon +which your comfort will depend. The kitchen and dining-room +may be all in one. An awning spread over the roof will make a +delightful place in which to lounge and catch the river breezes.</p> + + +<h3>The Cost of House-Boats</h3> + +<p>The cost of a ready-made flat-bottomed house-boat is anywhere +from thirty dollars to one or more thousands. In Florida such a +boat, 40 by 20 feet, built for the quiet waters of the St. John's +River or its tributaries, or the placid lagoons, will cost eight hundred +dollars. This boat is well painted outside and rubbed down +to a fine oil finish inside; it has one deck, and the hull is used for +toilet apartments and state-rooms; the hull is well calked and all +is in good trim. Such expense is, however, altogether unnecessary—there +need be no paint or polish. All you need is a well-calked +hull and a water-tight roof of boards or canvas overhead; +cots or bunks to sleep in; chairs, stools, boxes or benches to sit +on; hammocks to loll in, and a good supply of provisions in +the larder.</p> + +<p>House-boats for the open waters are necessarily more expensive. +As a rule they need round bottoms that stand well out of the water, +and are built like the hull of a ship. These boats cost as much to +build as a small yacht. From twelve to fifteen hundred dollars +will build a good house-boat, with comfortable sleeping-berths, +toilet-rooms and store-rooms below; a kitchen, dining-room, and +living-rooms on the cabin deck, with wide, breezy passageways +separating them.</p> + +<p>If a bargain can be found in an old schooner with a good hull, +for two or three hundred dollars, a first-class house-boat can be +made by the expenditure of as much more for a cabin. The roofs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span> +of all house-boats should extend a foot or more beyond the sides +of the cabin.</p> + + +<h3>For People of Limited Means</h3> + +<p>For people with little money to spend, these expensive boats +are as much out of reach as a yacht, but they may often be rented +for prices within the means of people in moderate circumstances. +At New York I have known a good schooner-yacht, 84 feet over all, +to be chartered for two weeks, with crew of skipper and two men, +the larder plentifully supplied with provisions and luxuries for six +people and the crew, making nine in all, at a cost of thirty-six dollars +apiece for each of the six passengers. An equally good house-boat +should not cost over twelve dollars a week per passenger for +a party of ten. In inland waters, if a boat could be rented, the +cost should not exceed seven or eight dollars a week per passenger.</p> + +<p>A canal-boat is a most excellent house-boat for a pleasure party, +either on inland streams or along our coast.</p> + + +<h3>Street-Car Cabins</h3> + +<p>Since the introduction of cable and trolley-cars the street-car +companies have been selling their old horse-cars, in some instances +at figures below the cost of the window-glass in them; so cheap, +in fact, that poor people buy them to use as woodsheds and +chicken-coops.</p> + +<p>One of these cars will make an ideal cabin for a house-boat, +and can be adapted for that purpose with little or no alterations. +All it needs is a good flat-boat to rest in, and you have a palatial +house-boat.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3> + +<div class="footnote"> + +<p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1">[A]</a> See <a href="#Page_10">p. 10</a>.</p></div></div> + +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span></p> + + + +<h2>CHAPTER XV<br /> +<small>A CHEAP AND SPEEDY MOTOR-BOAT</small></h2> + +<div class='summary1'>How To Build the Jackson Glider—A Very Simple Form of Motor-Boat, +Which Will Hold Its Own in Speed With Even +Expensive Boats of Double Horse-Power</div> + + +<p><span class="smcap">This</span> boat is intended to slide over the top of the water and not +through it, consequently it is built in the form of a flat-bottom +scow. Order your wood dressed on both sides, otherwise it will +come with one side rough. For the side-boards we need two pine, +or cedar boards, to measure, when trimmed, 14 feet (<a href="#Fig_228">Fig. 228</a>), +and to be 16 or 18 inches wide.</p> + + +<h3>The Stern-Board</h3> + +<div class='unindent'>when trimmed, will be 2½ feet long by 1 foot, 8½ inches wide. +It may even be a little wider, because the protruding part can be +planed down after the boat is built (<a href="#Fig_229">Fig. 229</a>).</div> + +<p>To make the bow measure from the point E (<a href="#Fig_228">Fig. 228</a>) 1 foot +8½ inches and mark the point C. Measure along the same line +13½ inches and mark the point D. Next measure from B down +along the edge of the boat one inch and mark the point F. Again +measure down from B, 5¾ inches and mark the point G. With +a carpenter's pencil draw the lines F D and G C and saw these +pieces off along the dotted line (<a href="#Fig_232">Fig. 232</a>). The bow can then be +rounded at the points A and B with a sharp knife or jackplane.</p> + +<p>To get the proper slant on the stern, measure from H 4½ inches +to L and saw off the triangle LHK. Make the other side board +an exact duplicate of the first one, as in <a href="#Fig_228">Fig. 228</a>. Next set these +two boards on edge, like sledge runners (<a href="#Fig_230">Fig. 230</a>), and let them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span> +be 2 feet, 6 inches apart (the boat will be safer if made six inches +wider, and its speed will be almost as great), which can be tested +by fitting the stern-boards between them before nailing the temporary +boards on, which are to hold them in place (<a href="#Fig_230">Fig. 230</a>). Do +not drive the nails home, but leave the heads protruding on all +temporary braces, so that they may be easily removed when +necessary.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_228"></a><a id="Fig_229"></a><a id="Fig_230"></a> +<img src="images/i_198.png" width="600" height="467" alt="Figs. 228-230 Parts of a motor-boat" /> +</div> +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_198-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + +<div class="figright" style="width: 334px;"><a id="Fig_231"></a> +<img src="images/i_199.png" width="334" height="475" alt="drawing" /> +<div class="caption">Fig. 231.</div> +</div> + +<p>Now turn the boat bottom side up and nail the bottom on, as +already described in previous chapters (<a href="#Fig_232">Fig. 232</a>). The bottom-boards +are to be so planed upon their edges that they leave V-shaped +grooves on the inside of the boat to be calked with candlewick +and putty (<a href="#Fig_231">Fig. 231</a>). Next make a shaft-log by cutting a +board in a triangular piece, as shown in <a href="#Fig_233">Fig. 233</a>, and nailing two +other pieces of board on it, and leaving a space for the shaft-rod,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span> +over which is nailed a duplicate of the bottom-board, as shown +in <a href="#Fig_234">Fig. 234</a>. Make the shaft-log of three thicknesses of 1-inch +plank. To make it more secure there should be a board nailed on +the inside bottom of the boat, as shown in <a href="#Fig_235">Fig. 235</a> by the dotted +lines.</p> + +<p>This board is put there to strengthen the bottom and allow us +to cut a slot through for the admission of a shaft (<a href="#Fig_236">Fig. 236</a>) which +is drawn on a scale shown below +it. With the engine comes a +stuffing box, through which the +shaft passes and which prevents +the water from coming up +through the shaft-hole. The +stuffing boxes, which are furnished +to fit upon the inside of +the boat, are expensive, but one +to fit upon the stern of the shaft-log +costs but little, and will answer +all purposes.</p> + + + +<p>Of course, when attaching the +shaft-log to the bottom, it must +be in the exact centre of the +boat. Find the centre of the +boat at the bow and stern, mark +the points and snap a chalk-line +between them. Now place the +shaft-log in position on this line and while holding that there +firmly, mark around it with a carpenter's pencil. Next lay the +shaft-log flat on its side with its edge along this line and with +your pencil mark on the bottom of the boat the exact place +where the shaft-hole must be cut to correspond with the one in the +shaft-log. As may be seen by <a href="#Fig_236">Fig. 236</a>, the shaft runs through +at an acute angle; hence the hole must be bored on a slant, or +better still a slot cut through the floor long enough to allow for +the slant.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a id="Fig_232"></a><a id="Fig_233"></a><a id="Fig_234"></a><a id="Fig_235"></a><a id="Fig_236"></a><a id="Fig_237"></a><a id="Fig_238"></a><a id="Fig_239"></a> +<img src="images/i_200.png" width="600" height="368" alt="Details of Motor-boat" /> +</div> + +<div class='tnote'><div class='center'>[Transcriber's Note: To see a larger version of this +image, click <a href="images/i_200-big.png">here</a>.]</div></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span></p> + +<p>The leak, which would naturally occur here is prevented by the +stuffing box which is fastened on to the stern-end of the shaft-log +where the latter protrudes for the propeller. To set the engine +in the boat it is necessary to have an engine-bed. This is made +of two pieces of board cut diagonally, upon which the engine +rests.</p> + +<p><a href="#Fig_237">Fig. 237</a> shows a piece of 2-inch board and a method of sawing +it to make the duplicate pieces to form the engine-bed. The +dimension of these pieces must be obtained by measuring the +width of the engine rest, which is to be installed. The angle, of +course, must correspond to the angle of the shaft.</p> + +<p>Make your own rudder of any shape that suits your fancy, +square or paddle-shaped, of a piece of galvanized iron or of wood, +as shown in the diagram; or you can simply fasten the rudder-stem +to the transom (stern-board), as is often done on row-boats +and sail-boats. If you desire to make your rudder like the one +shown here, use two pieces of galvanized pipes for your rudder-posts, +one of which fits loosely inside of the other. Make the +rudder-posts of what is known as <small><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></small>-inch (which means literally +a <small><sup>3</sup>/<sub>8</sub></small>-inch opening) and for its jacket use a ¾-inch pipe, or any two +kinds of pipe, which will allow one to turn loosely inside the other. +The smaller pipe can be bent easily by hand to suit your convenience, +after it has been thrust through the larger pipe.</p> + +<p>First bend the lower end of the small pipe to fit your proposed +rudder, then remove the larger pipe and flatten the lower end of +the small one by beating it with the hammer. To bore the screw-holes +in the flattened end you will use a small tool for drilling +metal. One of these drills, which will fit any carpenter's brace, +can be procured for the cost of a few cents.</p> + +<p>Drill holes through the flattened end of your pipe for the reception +of your screws, which are to secure it to the rudder. It is +now necessary to fasten a block of 2-inch plank securely to the +bottom of the boat upon the inside where the rudder-post is to be +set. This block might best be secured on with four bolts. A +hole is then bored through the block and the bottom of the boat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span> +a trifle smaller than the largest piece of pipe; the latter is supposed +to have screw threads upon its lower end (<a href="#Fig_238">Fig. 238</a>) so that +it may be screwed into the wood, but before doing so coat the +threads with white lead and also the inside of the hole in the block +with the same substance.</p> + +<p>When the larger pipe is now screwed into the block until its +lower end is flushed with the outside bottom of the boat, the white +lead will not only make the process easier, but will tend to keep +out the moisture and water from the joint.</p> + +<p>From the outside thrust the upper end of the small pipe through +the hole in the bottom until it protrudes the proper distance above +the larger pipe, and with the point of a nail scratch a mark on the +surface of the small pipe where it issues from the big one. At this +point drill a hole through the small pipe to admit a nail which is +to act as a peg to keep the helm from sliding down and jamming in +its bearings.</p> + +<p>If you choose, a small seat or deck may be inserted in the stern, +through which the helm extends and which will help to steady it. +The top of the helm, or protruding ends of the small pipe may +now be bent over toward the bow, as shown in the diagram, and +by holding some hard substance under it, the end may be flattened +with a hammer and two holes drilled through the flattened end +for the rudder-line, as in <a href="#Fig_239">Fig. 239</a>. These lines work the rudder +and extend on each side of the boat through some clothes-lines +pulleys, as shown in <a href="#Fig_239">Fig. 239</a>.</p> + +<p>If you slice off the ring from a common rubber hose and slip +it over the inside pipe before you fasten it in place, it will prevent +the water from spurting up through the rudder pipe when the boat +is speeding.</p> + +<p>Any boat will leak if not carefully built and the simplest kind +of a craft carefully put together is as water-tight as the most finished +and expensive boat.</p> + +<p>For a gasoline tank any good galvanized iron vessel will answer +if it holds five gallons or more of gasoline. It can be placed in the +bow on a rest made for it. Of course the bottom of the tank must<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span> +be on a level or higher than the carburetor of the engine; the tank +is connected by a small copper, or block-tin pipe, which you procure +with the engine.</p> + +<p>This boat, if built according to plans, should cost ten dollars or +less, not counting the cost of the engine. The cost of the latter +will vary according to the style of one you use, and whether you +get it first or second hand.</p> + +<p>A ten-horse power engine drove a boat of this kind at the rate of +eighteen miles an hour.</p> + +<p>For beginners, this is as far as it is safe to go in boat-building, +but thus far any one with a rudimentary knowledge of the use of +tools can go, and, if one has followed the book through from +chapter to chapter he should be a good boat-builder at</p> + +<div class='center'><br /> +The End +</div> +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span></p> +<div class='bbox'> +<div class='adtitle2'>THE BEARD BOOKS FOR BOYS</div> + +<div class='center'><big><i>By</i> <span class="smcap">Dan C. Beard</span></big></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 54px;"> +<img src="images/decoration.png" width="54" height="14" alt="decoration" /> +</div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>THE AMERICAN BOY'S HANDY BOOK. Or, What +to Do and How to Do It</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>Illustrated by the author</i><br /> +Gives sports adapted to all seasons of the year, tells boys how to make all +kinds of things—boats, traps, toys, puzzles, aquariums, fishing-tackle; how +to tie knots, splice ropes, to make bird calls, sleds, blow-guns, balloons; how +to rear wild birds, to train dogs, and do the thousand and one things that +boys take delight in.</div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>THE OUTDOOR HANDY BOOK. For Playground, +Field, and Forest</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>Illustrated by the author</i><br /> +"How to play all sorts of games with marbles, how to make and spin more +kinds of tops than most boys ever heard of, how to make the latest things +in plain and fancy kites, where to dig bait and how to fish, all about boats +and sailing, and a host of other things . . . an unmixed delight to any +boy."—<i>New York Tribune.</i></div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>THE FIELD AND FOREST HANDY BOOK. Or, New +Ideas for Out of Doors</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>Illustrated by the author</i><br /> +"Instructions as to ways to build boats and fire-engines, make aquariums, +rafts, and sleds, to camp in a back-yard, etc. No better book of the kind exists."—<i>Chicago +Record-Herald.</i></div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>SHELTERS, SHACKS, AND SHANTIES</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>Illustrated by the author</i><br /> +Easily workable directions, accompanied by very full illustration, for over +fifty shelters, shacks, and shanties.</div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>BOAT-BUILDING AND BOATING. A Handy Book +for Beginners</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>Illustrated by the author</i><br /> +All that Dan Beard knows and has written about the building of every simple +kind of boat, from a raft to a cheap motor-boat, is brought together in +this book.</div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>THE JACK OF ALL TRADES. Or, New Ideas for +American Boys</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'><i>Illustrated by the author</i><br /> +"This book is a capital one to give any boy for a present at Christmas, on +a birthday, or indeed at any time."—<i>The Outlook.</i></div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>THE BOY PIONEERS. Sons of Daniel Boone</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>Illustrated by the author</i><br /> +"How to become a member of the 'Sons of Daniel Boone' and take part in +all the old pioneer games, and many other things in which boys are interested."—<i>Philadelphia +Press.</i></div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>THE BLACK WOLF-PACK</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'>"A genuine thriller of mystery and red-blooded conflicts, well calculated to +hold the mind and the heart of its boy and, for that matter, its adult +reader."—<i>Philadelphia North American.</i></div> +</div> +<hr class="chap" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span></p> + + + +<div class='bbox'> +<div class='adtitle2'>THE BEARD BOOKS FOR GIRLS</div> + +<div class='center'><big><i>By</i> <span class="smcap">Lina Beard</span> <i>and</i> <span class="smcap">Adelia B. Beard</span></big></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 54px;"> +<img src="images/decoration.png" width="54" height="14" alt="decoration" /> +</div> + + + +<div class='adtitle3'>THE AMERICAN GIRL'S HANDY BOOK. How to +Amuse Yourself and Others</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>With nearly 500 illustrations</i><br /> +"It is a treasure which, once possessed, no practical girl would willingly +part with."—<span class="smcap">Grace Greenwood.</span></div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>THINGS WORTH DOING AND HOW TO DO THEM</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>With some 600 drawings by the authors that show exactly how they should +be done</i><br /> +"The book will tell you how to do nearly anything that any live girl +really wants to do."—<i>The World To-day.</i></div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>HANDICRAFT AND RECREATION FOR GIRLS</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>With over 700 illustrations by the authors</i><br /> +"It teaches how to make serviceable and useful things of all kinds +out of every kind of material. It also tells how to play and how to +make things to play with."—<i>Chicago Evening Post.</i></div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>WHAT A GIRL CAN MAKE AND DO. New Ideas +for Work and Play</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>With more than 300 illustrations by the authors</i><br /> +"It would be a dull girl who could not make herself busy and happy +following its precepts. . . . A most inspiring book for an active-minded +girl."—<i>Chicago Record-Herald.</i></div> + +<div class='adtitle3'>ON THE TRAIL</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>Illustrated by the authors</i><br /> +This volume tells how a girl can live outdoors, camping in the woods, +and learning to know its wild inhabitants.</div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>MOTHER NATURE'S TOY SHOP</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>Profusely illustrated by the authors</i><br /> + +How children can make toys easily and economically from wild +flowers, grasses, green leaves, seed-vessels, fruits, etc.</div> + + +<div class='adtitle3'>LITTLE FOLKS' HANDY BOOK</div> + +<div class='blockquot2'> +<i>With many illustrations</i><br /> +Contains a wealth of devices for entertaining children by means of +paper building-cards, wooden berry-baskets, straw and paper furniture, +paper jewelry, etc.</div> + +<div class='center'>——————————————<br /> +CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS, NEW YORK<br /> +</div> +</div> +<hr class="chap" /> + +<div class='tnote'><h3>Transcriber's Notes:</h3> + +<p>Punctuation errors were corrected.</p> + +<p>Inconsistent hyphenation was retained.</p> + +<p>Some of the +illustrations were enlarged to show greater detail.</p> + +<p>Page 42, "staps" changed to "straps" (straps with your hand)</p> + +<p>Page 58, "mechancial" changed to "mechanical" (with mechanical aid)</p> +<p>Page 90 and 96, two different drawings are labeled "Fig. 140."</p> +<p>Page 166, the illustration has a "Fig. 113" as part of the original, but the +caption reads "Fig. 218." This anomaly was retained.</p> +</div> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44228 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/44228-h/images/cover.jpg b/44228-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3a2abc4 --- /dev/null +++ b/44228-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/44228-h/images/decoration.png b/44228-h/images/decoration.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b09e069 --- /dev/null +++ b/44228-h/images/decoration.png diff --git a/44228-h/images/i_005.png b/44228-h/images/i_005.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b15433 --- /dev/null +++ b/44228-h/images/i_005.png diff --git a/44228-h/images/i_007.png b/44228-h/images/i_007.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..668c4ac --- /dev/null +++ b/44228-h/images/i_007.png diff --git a/44228-h/images/i_015.png b/44228-h/images/i_015.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b0b45fb --- /dev/null +++ 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